NYPL RESEARCH LIBRARIES 3 3433 05693125 0 How How ، اما این کار کاروبار و بار هواداران اور THE NE71 YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY ASTOR, LEN,X May TILDEN FOUNLA 1 WRITIN WITTY HB QT EEN ali Ph ri E TM: LUIS THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND HOUSEKEEPER’S & BUTLER'S ASSISTANT: A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON ENGLISH AND FOREIGN COOKERY IN ALL ITS BRANCHES; CONTAINING PLAIN INSTRUCTIONS FOR PICKLING AND PRESERVING VEGETABLES, FRUITS, GAME, &c.; . The Curing of Hams and Bacon; THE ART OF CONFECTIONARY AND ICE-MAKING, AND THE ARRANGEMENT OF DESSERTS. WITH VALUABLE DIRECTIONS FOR THE PREPARATION OF PROPER DIET FOR INVALIDS; ALSO FOR A VARIETY OF WINE-CUPS AND EPICUREAN SALADS; AMERICAN DRINKS, AND SUMMER BEVERAGES. BY CHARLES ELMÉ FRANCATELLI, PUPIL OF THE CELEBRATED CARÊME, SEVEN YEARS CHEF DE CUISINE TO THE REYORM CLUB, AND LATE MAİTRE-D'HÔTEL AND CHIEF COOK TO HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN. AUTHOR OF “THE MODERN COOK." WITH UPWARDS OF TORTY ILLUSTRATIONS. TWENTY-SECOND THOUSAND. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. 1357.' . vou [Right of Transition is Reserved.] THE NEW YORK FUFPE L'BRARY 692506 A 1 ASTO5, LENOX AND TILDEN FOUNDATIONS R 1993 L LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SOXS. STANFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS PREFACE. In writing the present Work, I have been actuated principally by a desire to comply with numerous appli- cations from ladies and gentlemen with whom I have the honour of being acquainted, -to the effect that I should write another Book on Cookery of a less com- plicated character, and consequently upon a more econo- mical system, than my "Modern Cook." Encouraged by their assurances of success, I have brought all my experience and energy to bear on the undertaking, and trust that my endeavours will meet with a renewal of the favour so readily and constantly awarded to my first Work, to which I beg respectfully to refer all my Readers who may feel desirous of be- coming more intimately acquainted with the study of Classical Cookery. It is generally believed, that in order to write efficiently upon any given subject, a thorough know- ledge of that subject is essential and no doubt this idea is conscientiously acted upon in most cases; but there is little need of argument on my part to show PREFACE. beyond a doubt that too many who have presumed to write upon the Art and Science of Cookery are very far from possessing any real and adequate knowledge of the art and science they so recklessly attempt to teach. There does not, in fact, exist a sound practical work on Cookery adapted to the general requirements of the Middle Classes whose incomes range between a few hundreds and thousands per annum; and in proof of this assertion, I need quote only a few instances out of very many of the ignorance and incapacity manifested in Treatises on the subject which have had a large share of public patronage. Thus, in the "The Modern Housewife," at page 122, you are instructed to make green-pea soup with milk! In a book professing to teach how to cook rabbits, you are taught the indis- criminate use of wine, lemon, vinegar, butter, garlic, spices, and cayenne pepper in sufficient quantities to produce considerable evil to the digestive organs; while in another work you are directed how to cook oysters in a variety of ways capable only of rendering that delicious article of food perfectly unpalatable as well as indigestible. At page 72 of “ Modern Domestic Cookery," we are told that gravy soup is to be flavoured with walnut catsup!--at page 74, ox-cheek soup is directed to be rendered delectable with walnut catsup, Chili vinegar, and brandy!—at page 90, we are told that in order to procure turtle soup in greatest per- fection, it must be seasoned with curry powder!- at page 95, we are informed that sorrel must be used in PREFACE. making green-pea soup! The use of sorrel in this case would tend to produce pea soup both yellow and sour, but certainly neither green nor sweet, two character- istics indispensable to the production of good green-pea soup; but let these specimens of the style of cookery contained in this book suffice to show that the profes- sional gentleman, who we are assured in the Preface presided over the last revision of “Modern Domestic Cookery" has not succeeded in establishing his claims to be considered a professed cook. Such luminous information as this is to be met with throughout the pages of all similar works on Cookery, which have evidently not been written by cooks, or by persons in any degree qualified to write on the subject. In the composition of this Work, I have been con- stantly stimulated by a desire to produce an accurate Guide to the Study of Cookery in all its branches, embracing correct and practical methods for preserving Meats, Vegetables, Fruits, &c.—the curing of Hams and Bacon—and the preparation of good and wholesome Pickles. This Work contains also the Art of Con- fectionary in all its particulars; the most recent im- provements in the preparation of Jams and Jellies, Compotes, Dessert Cakes and Bon-bons, Water and Cream Ices, Summer Drinks, &c. It contains also co- pious Recipes for making Wine and other kinds of Cups; a variety of Salads and Appetisers, American Drinks and Granitos, which will be found of material use to Butlers, by enabling them to perform certain portions PREFACE. of their duties with greater satisfaction to their em- ployers. And with a view to the comforts of Invalids and Children, herein will be found ample instructions for the judicious preparation of light, wholesome, and nutritious food; also a variety of Medicinal Drinks, the composition of which has been approved of by a cele?..ated chemist, Mr. Savory, of New Bond Street. To render the Work as complete as possible, I have added a series of Bills of Fare for every Month of the Year, in English and French—and a most copious Index. C. E. FRANCATELLI. Boyne Terrace, Notting Ilill, Lor:14022. ILLUSTRATIONS TO FRANCATELLI'S COOK'S GUIDE. No. of Recipe. Page 191 66 200 69 210 74 332 114 349 Portrait of the Author- Frontispioce. Turbot Salmon Trout ... Pulled Bread Prawns Grilled Kippered Salmon Oysters Pickled Salmon Sardines Pats of Butter Radishes Olives 339 347 345 342 689 130 367 350 Gherkins 966 Tunny 341 343 411 145 424 151 Anchovies Leg of Mutton Haunch of ditto Saddle of ditto Ham glazed with Spinach Roast Turkey Capon à la Régence ... 425 152 450 164 464 173 471 176 vii ILLUSTRATIONS. No. of Recipe. 479 Page 198 518 197 519 199 520 200 521 201 522 202 523 5:24 203 204 525 612 Chickens and Tongue à la Macédoine Vol-au-vent à la Financière ... Pâté-Chaud of Pigeons à la Financière Timbale of Macaroni Border of Rice à la Reine Mazarine of Salmon ... Chartreuse of Partridges Croustade of Larks ... Tourte of Godiveau ... ... Lamb Cutlets à la Duchesse ... Suprême of Fowls à la Royale Fricassée of Chickens à la Havelock Croustade of Quenelles Nougats of Almonds ... . Cornucopia ... ... . Meringues à la Crême Apple Meringues à la Portugaise Apple Charlotte Macédoine of Whole Fruits in Jelly Ham with Aspic Jelly ... ... . 205 239 240 615 620 242 627 246 754 313 754A 766 797A 315 322 342 343 367 797B 849 930 307 CONTENTS. PAU PREFICE . . . . . . . . . . ii CHAPTER I. 1 STOCKS AND SAUCES. Introduction.-The Stock-pot . . . . . Stock-White Veal—Brown Gravy-Game Stock-Economical Stock -How to clarify Stocks or Broths—Aspic Jelly-Economical Aspic Jelly-Brown Thickening for Sauces-White Thickening for Sauces -Extract of Game for Gravy-Brown Sauce-White Sauce-Eco- nomy of Second Stocks or Broths. Sauces—White Bechamel - Cream Béchamel — Allemande — Economical White - Poivrade- Genoese-Tomata—Piquante-Italian–Financière-Brown Caper -White Caper-Sharp—Reform—Chevreuil-Brown, Cold-Ger- man, for Boar’s Head-Maître d'Hôtel —Economical Maître d'Hô- tel — Ravigote - Robert-Poulette - Mayonaise Tartar-Melted Butter or Butter-Lobster-Shrimp Muscle - White Oyster- Brown Oyster-Egg-Port-Wine, for Wild Fowl-Venison-Pars- ley- Anchovy-Apple-Green Gooseberry-Fennel-Mustard- Brown Butter-Onion-Bretonne - Green Ravigote — Soubise- Neapolitan-Bourguignotte Poor-man's — Cardinal-Richelieu- Shalot—Truffle - Mushroom-Périgueux — Salmis, Provençale- Bread-Fried Bread-crumbs-Spinach Greening— Indian Sauce Fine-herbs Sauce-D'Uxelles Sauce Brown Colouring-Chateau- briand_Horseradish-Dutch-Clear Tarragon—Prince of Wales' - Cazanova-Devil's-Ham - Curry — Brown Matelote-White Matelote — Aurora — Stragotto - Lyonnaise — Celery — Russian -Almond Cream- Plum—Cherry — Raspberry - Arrowroot - Wine, for Pudding-Whip-Orange . . . . . . 1 CONTENTS. CHAPTER II. GARNISHES FOR ENTRÉES OR OTHER MADE DISHES. PAGE Macedoine of Vegetables — Jardinière — Reform Chips — Glazed Onions-Glazed Carrots-Cucumber Garnish - Green Peas for Garnish-Asparagus Peas, &c. Puree of Green Peas for Garnish -of Spinach-of Sprue Asparagus- of Potatoes-of Chestnuts- of Carrots—of Artichokes--of Turnips-of Celery-of Sorrel of Poultry—of GamePatty Meats-Chipolata-Ragout-Finan- cière- Toulouse - Milanese - Maître-d'Hôtel Butter - Anchovy Butter-Lobster Butter- Epicurean Butter- Devil Misture. CHAPTER III. SOUPS IN GENERAL, Soups — Julienne - Jardinière — Brûnoise-Spring–Chiffonade Celery and Button-Onion-D'Esclignac-Consommé with Quenelles -Soups, Carlton-House-Mock-Turtle, clear-Mock-Turtle-Gib- let, clear-Giblet, thick-Ox-Tail-Or-Cheek-Mulligatawney- Duchess-Calf's Tail-Calf's Feet-Grouse-Hare- Peas Green l'cas-Asparagus—Carrot, à la Cressy, Potato-Mutton Broth- Scotch Broth-Hodge-Podge-Knuckle of Veal and Rice Soup Cocky-Leeky-Onion Porridge-Bonne Femme-Palestine-White Celery-Turnip-Macaroni -Vermicelli-Italian Paste -- Raviolis -Lord Marcus Hill's-Lobster-Crab-Crayfish-Prawn-Vic- toria-White, à la Reine-Spring Herbs — Russian, or Tschi-- Spanish-Provençale, or Bouillabaisse-Vegetable Marrow-Chest- nut-German-Italian-Oyster . . . . . CHAPTER IV. BREAD PANADA, &c.; AND DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL Bread Panada-Quenelle Forcemeat of Veal–Of Whitings-Lobster Quenelles-Forcemeat of Liver and Ham, for Raised Pies-For Preserving GameGodiveau. Turbot, plain Boiled-à la Paris sienne-Grilled à la Vatel—à la Normande With Cream au Gratin -à la Béchamel - Fillets of Turbot-Brill- John Dory. Salmon, Plain-Grilled-à la Tartare-à la Régence-Matelotte of Salmon -Fillets of Salmon à l'Indienne à la Maréchale-à la Tartare à la Ravigote-Salmon Boiled after the Scotch Fashion. Trout, plain Boiled-Grilled, with Epicurean Sauce - With Genoese Sauce -à l'Aurore-Fillets of Trout. Sturgeon à la Cardinal — à la Bourguignotte-à la Royale-Grilled, Piquante Sauce. Cod-fish, Raked and Stuffed—Crimped-Cod, Oyster Sauce-Cod à la Dieppose CONTENTS. xi PAGR -Fried, à la Portugaise-Grilled, à la Colbert-à la Religieuse-à la Crême-Rice, Plain, Boiled for Curries— Baked Cod's head. Haddock, Ego Sauce - Baked - Grilled -- Fillets of Haddock. Soles, Boiled-Fried—à la Colbert-au Gratin—with Fine-herbs à l'Aurore-Normande - à la Cardinal- Fillets of Sole à la Taitare- à la Rouennaise-Fried-Fillets of Fish, Fried in Batter. Gurnet, Boiled-Baked-Fillets of Gurnet. Mackerel, Boiled à la Maître d'Hôtel-Grilled, with Brown Butter Sauce-Fillets of Mackerel à la Maître d'Hôtel. Red Mullets, Grilled with Fine- herbs-In Papers—à la Chesterfield. Whitings, Boiled-Fried -Broiled- Au Gratin à la Française--Fillets of Whiting à la Horly. Char, Grilled Water Souchet of. Lampreys, Stewed Smelts, Fried- Baked. Eels, Spitchcocked-Stewed-à la Tar- tare-White. Carp, Fried--Stewed Stuffed and Baked. Tench, Stewed-Barbel, Roach, and Dace-Pike, Baked--Perch-Skate Crimped, with Brown Butter. White-bait---Devilled. Oysters, Scolloped — Muscles, Scolloped — Lobster, Scolloped - Collops, Scolloped-Cockles, Scolloped . . . . . . 63 CHAPTER V. FRYING BATTERS.-STUFFINGS AND SEASONINGS. Frying Batter-German, Italian-Yorkshire Pudding-Suet Pud- ding- Veal Stuffing-Bread Crumbs Fried-Sage-and-onion Stuf- fing—Stuffing for Hares—Cold Marinade Pickle. Mirepoix, or Foundation for flavouring Sauces or Game Soups . . . 98 CHAPTER VI. APPETISERS FOR BREAKFAST OR LIGHT SUPPERS.- SALADS. Rice Curried - Turkish Fashion - Polish Fashion - Piedmontese Fashion-Milanese Fashion-Florentine Fashion-Spanish Fashion -à la Sæur Nightingale. Raviolis à la Napolitaine — Roman Gniocchi-Oysters Fried—Scollops of Meat or of Fish-Rizzolletti. Rissoles-Croquets of Meat, or Fish-Fried Salmon Roe Lobster Croquets-Oyster Croquets. Marrow Toast à la Victoria- Jarrow-Boces-Patties. Croustades—Puff-Paste Patties--Mutton Pies à la Windsor-Savoury Trifles-Turkish Pilau-- Indian Pilau -Pooloot-Yarmouth Bloaters-Grilled Kippered Salmon-Dried Haddocks—Pulled Crisp Bread--Toasted Cheese-Cheese Canapees --- Anchovy Canapees- Prince of Wales' Canapees--Devilled Biscuits - Anchovy Toast-Devilled Salmon- Devilled Gam -- Tunny ----- Sardines - Anchovies-Pickled Fish-Salmon-Soused Mackerel Oysters, Devilled-Prawns-Olives—Russian Krömeskys–Dutcn CONTENTS. PAGR Herrings – Croquets of Macaroni – Italian Polpetti - German Schpeischlitz–German Quenelles. Bonnes-Bouches-Sandwiches -Adelaide—Victoria-Bretby—Irish-Fish—Prince's—For Ball- Suppers Ordinary. Salads in General—English–Cucumber — French-Beetroot and Spanish Onion- Italian-Spanish Russian - Flemish -- German – Cazanova — à la Rachel — Vegetable- Hamboro ,02 CHAPTER VII. REMOVES IN GENERAL. Beet, Roast Sirloin of—Roast Ribs of-Boiled Round of-Aitchbone of-Rolled Thin Flank of- Braized Roll of, à la Béarnaise-Stewed Rump of-Ribs à la Mode-Fillets Larded—à la Napolitaine-à la Richelieu - Braized, à la Milton-Pressed. Ox-tongues- Braized-Hunting Beef. Veal, Roast Fillet of-Roast Neck of- Braized Neck of-Neck of Larded—Noix or Cushion of Veal—à la St. George-à la St. Cloud-Roast Loins of-Braized-à la Crême -Roast Breast of — Rolled à la Printanière-à la Chipolata. Mutton, Boiled Leg of-Braized--à la Napolitaine-à la Proven- çale-à la Bretonne à la Soubise-Neck of, Boiled-à l'Irlandaise -Roebuck Fashion-à la Soubise-à l'Allemande-with Purée of Sorrel. Sheep's-head Gallimaufried-Mutton, Haunch of, Roast Saddle of, Roast-à la Polonaise-Shoulder of, Boiled_Stuffed Loins of. Lamb, Roast Fore-quarter of—Ribs or Target of-Leg of, Boiled-Shoulder of, Grilled-à la Montmorency-Lamb's Head-Saddle of, Braized - à la Villeroi. Scotch Haggis. Pork, Boiled Leg of-German Fashion- Roast Leg of-Roast Sparerib of -How to Pickle-Roast Sucking Pig-Roast Pig à la Périgueux- à la Chipolata—Bath Chaps-- Chine of Pork . . . 131 CHAPTER VIII. DIFFERENT METHODS OF DRESSING HAMS. How to select a Ham-To Boil a York Ham-Glazed with Spinach -How to dress a Westphalia Ham-A Spanish Ham—To Roast Hams-Baked Hams. . . . . . . . 163 CHAPTER IX. REMOVES OF VENISON, RED DEER, AND ROEBUCK. Venison, Roast Haunch of-Roast Shoulder of-Roast Neck of. Venison Fry-Chops. Red Deer, Haunch of Roebuck-Haricot of-Cutlets . . . . . . . 168 CONTENTS. xiii CHAPTER X. REMOVES OF POULTRY AND GAME. PAGE Turkev, Roast-à la Chipolata—à la Provençale-Boiled —à la York- shire, Capon à la Perigueux-à la Piémontaise-à la Régence Boiled--Chicken and Bacon Boiled. Grouse à la Kinnaird. Black Game à la Royale — Chicken and Rice. Chicken à la Romaine à la Milanaise-Chickens and Tongue à la Macédoine. Pheasant à la Portugaise- à la Gitana-à la Flamande-Boiled, à la Soubise - Roast Pheasant, Liver Stuffing. Partridges, Braized with Cabbages-à la Victoria—à la Prince of Wales- With Sage and Onion. Goose, Roast, with Sage and Onion- Braized à la Jardinière-à l'Arlesienne. Ducks Stewed à l'Espag- Role-With Peas—Braized with Turn ps 173 CHAPTER XI. MEAT PIES AND PUDDINGS. Chicken and Ham Pie— Pigeon Pie à l'Anglaise. Grouse Pie à l'Ecossaise - Partridge Pie à la Chasseur-Giblet Pie-Beefsteak and Oyster Pie—Veal and Ham Pie-Mutton Pie à l'Irlandaise- Potted Snipes, Irish Fashion-Pie of Small Birds. Lark Pie a la Melton Mowbray-Beefsteak and Oyster Pudding-Mutton Pud- ding-Kidney Pudding-Pudding à la Chipolata Snipe Pudding à l'Epicurienne-Sausage Pudding Yorkshire Veal Cake -Hare Cake -Fish Pie à la Ste. Terese—à la Ste. Ursula-Potato Pie-Leek Flammish . . . . . . . . . 185 CHAPTER XII. ENTREES; OR FIRST-COURSE SIDE DISHES OF PASTRY, &c. Vol-ap-Vent à la Financière-Pâté-Chaud of Pigeons—Timbale of Macaroni-Border of Rice à la Reine. Mazarine of Salmon- Chartreuse of Partridges Croustade of Larks Tourte of Godi. veau. . . . . . . . . . . 197 CHAPTER XIII. PLAIN ENTREES; OR SIDE DISHES FOR EVERY-DAY FARE. Hashed Beef-with Pickled Walnuts-Minced Beef-Grilled Bones -Devilled Bones - Bubble-and-Squeak— Rumpsteak, Plain. Os kidney Grilled—Stewed--Beef Collops-Boiled Beef au Gratin- ziv CONTENTS. PAGA Mironton of Beef-Toad-in-the-Hole Vinegaret of Beef-Tripe Boiled-Fried-Stewed-Baked-Pork Chops-Cutlets-Pig's Fry -Curried Pork. Hashed Mutton, plain—Mutton Hashed Veni- son Fashion—à l'Indienne-Minced Mutton-Mutton Chops-Cute lets, Plain-Bread-crumbedSheep's Kidneys Stewed-à l'Epicu- rienne- With Fine-herbs—Sheep's Trotters-Calf's Liver and Bacon --Calf's Liver à la Mode-Scotch Collops—Veal Cutlets with Mashrooms--Mince Veal with Poached Eggs—Calf's Brains à la Ravigote-With Nut-brown Butter-Fried-In Cases au Gratin Calf's Feet à la Bourgeoise -—à la Poulette-Fried. Lamb's Head Gallimaufried-Lamb's Fry-Lamb's Feet à la Poulette-Lamb Chops Breaded - Lamb Cutlets with Cucumber — à la Robert, Sweetbread Roasted --Sweetbread Cutlets—Beefsteaks à la Fran- çaise-à la Chateaubriand -with Anchovy Butter-Epicurean- Fillets of Beef à la Soubise. Calf's Head and Bacon-Calf's Head Hashed-Broiled-à la Financière-Turtle Fashion-Ox-tail, Hari- cot of-with Stewed Peas—Breaded and Grilled-Breast of Mutton Grilled-Irish Stew . . . 207 CHAPTER XIV. ENTREÉS OF SUPERIOR CLASS. Ox-Palates a la Florentine-Curried. Mutton Cutlets à la Sou- bise--à la Vicomtesse-à la Reforme-à la Provençale Fillets of Mutton, Roebuck Fashion à la Jardinière-Escalopes of Mutton with Fine-herbs. Veal Cutlets à la Financière-à la Maintenon- à la Russe. Sweetbread à la Toulouse—à la Villeroi-Tendons of Veal with Spinach-Curried. Lamb Cutlets à la Princesse- à la Duchesse --Lamb's Sweetbread, Larded -Scolloped. Supreme of Fowl à la Royale-Fillets of Fowls with Asparagus Peas-Esca- lopes of Fowl and Cucumber-Chicken Cutlets à la Dauphine- Legs of Fowls à la Wellington. Fricassée of Chickens à la Havelock-Chickens à l’Inkermann-à la Tartare-Grilled Fowls with Purée of Mushrooms --Boiled Fowls à la Cardinal–Chickens or Fowls à la Romaine. Boudins of Pheasant à la Richelieu-of Fowls à la Lucullus-Croustade of Quenelles-Boudins of Grouse à la Stanley. Quenelles of Fowl à la Suprême-Pheasant à la St. George, à la Gudewife-Salmis of-Partridges à la Béarnaise, Stewed, with Celery Sauce. Grouse Cutlets à la Glengarry- Fillets of Partridges à la Thackeray. Rabbit, Fricassée of-á la Tartare-Boiled, with Bacon—with Fine-herbs-Fried in Batter- Curried, and Rice. Woodcocks à la Chasseur, Snipes à la Bonne- Bouche. Wild Fowl à la Chasseur-American Fashion-Civet of Lereret-Jugged Hare. Baron of Beef, German Fashion-Wild Fowl à la Bigarrade-Capilotada of Fowl . . . . 231 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XV. SECOND COURSE-ROAST. PAGE Hare, Roast. Rabbit, Roast. Pheasant, Roast. Partridges, noast. Quails, Roast-Ruffs and Rees. Larks, Roast-Wood- cocks and Snipes. Capons, Roast. Green Goose-Pigeons, Roast -Black Game and Grouse, Roast-Pea-hens-Guinea-fowl. 257 CHAPTER XVI. HOW TO DRESS VEGETABLES. Braized Celery with Brown SaucemCelery à la Villeroi. Salsifis à la Crême-Salsifis fried in Batter. Spinach with Butter-Spinach with Cream. Endive with Cream. Cauliflowers with White Sauce-Cauliflowers with Parmesan Cheese. Tomatas à la Pro- vençale. Mushrooms au Gratin-Large Truffles à la Serviette- Truffles à la Piémontaise - Portugal Onions à l'Espagnole. Artichokes with Butter Sauce--Artichokes à la Barigoule-Arti- chokes à la Lyonnaise-Artichokes à l'Italienne. Asparagus with White Sauce - Asparagus Peas à la Crême. French Beans à la Maftre d'Hôtel-French Beans with Fine-herbs—Broad Beans à la Crême-Green Peas plain-Stewed Peas-Peas à la Française. Turnips Glacés with Sugar - Young Carrots à l'Allemande. Vegetable-marrow. Cucumbers à la Poulette - Cucumbers à l'Espagnole. Jerusalem Artichokes -- Jerusalem Artichokes à l'Italienne. White Haricot Beans à la Maître d'Hôtel-White Haricot Beans à la Bretonne-American Yams. Potatoes à la Maftre d'Hôtel-New, à la Crême-au Gratin—à la Lyonnaise à la Provençale-Croquets la Duchesse-Baked-à l'Italienne- Potato Salad — Mashed Potatoes Fried. Sea-kale à la Sauce. Brussels Sprouts . . . . . . 262 CHAPTER XVII. DIFFERENT METHOD OF DRESSING EGGS. Eggs a la Tripe--Eggs au Gratin–Eggs with Truffles. Omelet with Fine-herbs — with Shalots -- with Parmesan Cheese —with Kidneys—with Oysters. Poached Eggs with Anchovy Toast- with Ham-Eggs à la Dauphine-à l'Aurore-with Nut-brown Butterà la Suisse. Macaroni à l'Italienne-with Cream-au Gratin- Timbale of Macaroni à la Florentine. Nouilles à la Palermo_Timbale of Nouilles à la Vanille . . 281 Xvi CONTENTE. CHAPTER XVIII. RAISED PIES AND TIMBALES. Christmas Pie. Pies— Yorkshire - Devonshire - Leicestershire- Richmond Eel Pie-French Timbale-How to cure Hams and Bacon-Welsh Hams . . . . . . . . 289 CHAPTER XIX. CAKES IN GENERAL, Brioche Paste--Cakes-Baba, or Polish - Compiègne-Parisian- Victoria-Savarin-Savoy- Plum-Plain Seed-Pound—Genoese - With Almonds - Queen's — Almond – Ginger. German Kouglauffe - Scotch Bread. Gauffres — Flemish — French Almond. Nougats--Almond-Parisian--Small à la Chantilly Cornucopia-Madeleines—Spanish Cakes, or Petits-Choux. Petits- Choux with Caramel. Loaves — Duchess — Mecca — Parisian- Profitrolles. Meringues à la Crême. Biscuits — Finger, or Naples-Brussels, or Rusks-Italian—Venetian-Brown Bread- Champagne - Orange - Peach - Apricot — Sicilian - Russian- Albert-Victoria. Swedes-Chocolate Glace-Suisse Lecrelets 294 CHAPTER XX. SMALL PASTRY. Cheesecakes-Mirlitons-D'Artois Cake-German Tourte of Apri- cots-Parisian Turnover of Apples. Darioles-Condé Cakes D'Artois of Apricot-Pastry Custard, or Cream. Talmouses Walnuts-Bread-and-Butter Pastry-Rings, or Wreaths—Polish Cakes - Plaits, Apple a la Portugaise – Apple Charlotte - Tartlets, Apple-Cherry-Puff-Paste - Mosaic. "Parisian Loaves -Apple Tart with Quince-Pear Tart-Fruit Tarts in General 333 CHAPTER XXI. FRITTERS. Fritters, Apple-Pine-Apple-Orange-Peach-Cintra-Custard - Portuguese-Pudding-German-Spanish Puffs . . . 348 CHAPTER XXII. SOUFFLÉS AND OMELETS. Souffles, Potato Flour – Rice-Coffee-Fruit- Omelette Soufflé Plain Pancakes · · · · · · · 353 CONTENTS. mi PAGE CHAPTER XXIII., DIFFERENT KINDS OF PUDDINGS. Paddings, Brown Bread-Semolina- Victoria-German-Cabinet-- Chestnut-Ginger-Pine-apple-Lemon- Orange Plain Bread- Rusk-Apple-- Plum-Tapioca—Raspberry-Roll-Muffin. . 355 CHAPTER XXIV. "ELLIES IN GENERAL. Jellies, Calf's-Feet-Gelatine Orange-Lemon-Pine-apple-Cur- rant and Raspberry-Strawberry-Maraschino-Noyeau-Russian - Punch. Panachee-How to Clarity Syrup- To Clarify Isin- glass. Macedoine of Whole Fruits in Jelly-Fruit Jellies Iced -Oranges Filled with Jelly-Lemons Filled with Jelly or Cream 362 CHAPTER XXV. DIFFERENT KINDS OF CREAM. Blanc-Manger-Creams, Bavarian--Strawberry-Apricot-Coffee- Chocolate - Italian-Caramel-Celestine-Currant and Raspberry Cheese-Apricot Cheese-Russian Charlotte . . . . 370 CHAPTER XXVI. CONFECTIONARY AND PRESERVING. How to Bottle Gooseberries -Currants—Raspberries-Strawberries - Cherries - Apricots - Peaches-Greengages—Orleans Plums Damsons-Pine-apples-To Preserve Angelica Green—To Glace Pine-apple – Dried Pears-Apricots - Greengages — Chestnuts- Melons-Cucumbers - Oranges in Syrup - Preserved Lemons- Dried Cherries—Dried Raspberries . . 374 CHAPTER XXVII. COMPOTES OF FRUITS FOR DESSERTS. Compotes of Apples—Pears-Oranges—Peaches—Apricots-Green- gages - Cherries -Pine-apples-Strawberries-Chestnuts-Imita- tion of Ginger . . . . . . . . ; 38 Iniü CONTENTS. PSGB CHAPTER XXVIII. DESSERT CAKES. Iced Sponges-Dry Savoys-Cracklings–Dutch Drops Patience- Biscuits Cinnamon-Cream - Magentas - Lucknows -- Turin Cakes Transparents-Love's Wells . . . . . 387 CIIAPTER XXIX. DIFFERENT KINDS OF ICE. Water Ices, Orange-Lemon-Pine-apple – Pomegranate - Melon --Peach - Apricot - Strawberry-Curiant and Raspberry- Cherry-Roman Granito-Iced Punch Granito - Iced Roman Punch . . . . . . . . . . 595 CHAPTER XXX. COLD ENTREES, OR CHICKEN, LOBSTER, AND FISH SALADS, OR MAYONAISES. Chickens a la Belle Vue—Ham with Aspic Jelly-Tongue with Aspic Jelly-Galantine of Poularde-Mayonaises of Fowl of Lobster- of Fillets of Sole-of Salmon-Grouse Salad—Fricassée Chaud- froidSalmis Chaudfroid of Partridges-Potted Fowl and Ham -Tongue-Pheasant-Hare-Beei-Lobster-Shrimps - Bloaters -Smoked Salmon-Aromatic Herbaceous Seasoning . . 397 CHAPTER XXXI. DIFFERENT KINDS OF PASTE. Hot-water Pasto--for Raised Pies-Cold-water Paste for Raised Pies Paste, Short-Light-Tart—Nouilles-Almond-Croquante 115 CHAPTER XXXII. VARIOUS KINDS OF PRESERVED VEGETABLES. Preserved Peas French Beans — Windsor Beans - Cucumber- Young Carrots Artichokes Mushrooms_Truffles–Dried Herbs 407 CHAPTER XXXIII. DIFFERENT KINDS OF PICKLES. Pickled Gherking-Onions—Red Cabbage _Mixed Pickles-Piccaj- lilla Remowade . . . . . . . . OONTENTS. xix CHAPTER XXXIV. COOKERY FOR INVALIDS AND INFANTS. Pane Beef Tea_Veal Tea. Broth, Mutton-Chicken-Pectoral-Muci- laginous-Invigorating-Restorative--Panada, Chicken--Game- Dr. Wratislaw's Strengthening Extract of Beef-Almond Milk Beverage-Isinglass Jelly. Rice-water - Barley-water - Toast and Water-Eau Sucrée — Arrowroot — Sago-- Tapioca (iruel- Brown and Polson's Soutlle Pudding-Light Pudding for Invalids Infants' Food--Savoury Custard-Savoy SpongeCooling Posset for a Cold, Mehl-Prie, or German thick Milk . CHAPTER XXXV. JELLIES AND JAMS. Jellies, Red Currant - Black Currant - Raspberry - Currant and Raspberry-White Currant - Apple. Jam, Gooseberry- Rasp- berry-Damson-Apricot-Marmalade- Apple-Orange. i 423 CHAPTER XXXVI. BON-BONS. Burnt Almonds—Burnt Pistachio Pralines. Drops, Rose-Straw- berry-Punch. Bon-Bons—Chocolate--Coffee--Lemon Cara- mel-Cherry Rings--Barley Sugar . . . . . 427 CHAPTER XXXVII. AMERICAN DRINKS. Gin-Sling. Brandy-Smash - Cock-tail - Sherry Cobler - Julep, Mint - Pine-apple - Egg Nogg - Sleeper — Institution Cup Locomotive-Poney Punch-Nightcap --- Knickerbocker-Siſter- Floster-Ching-ching-St. Charles . . . . . 431 CHAPTER XXXVIII. ENGLISH AND FOREIGN SUMMER DRINKS. Orangeade - Lemonade. Water, Cherry-Currant-Strawberry- Pine-apple — Pomegranate — Orgeate, or Almond Milk. Claret Granito-Sherry Granito. Gin Punch-Milk Punch . . 435 " CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXXIX. CREAM ICES. PAGR Cream Ices, Ginger-Brown Bread - Apricot-Pine-apple-Straw. berry-Currant and Raspberry-Coffee-Chocolate-Gooseberry Fool-Iced Soufflé-Iced Biscuits-Iced Bombe-Love's Cartridges -Tuttifrutti-Plombieres Ices-Iced Pudding à la Nesselrode 439 CHAPTER XL. MEDICINAL DRINKS, &c. Teas, Hop-Linseed-Lime-flower-Violet-Camomile - Hyssop - Saffron-Orange-flower-Dandelion-Marsh-mallow Water-Infu. sion of Roses Iceland Moss Jelly-Mulberry Water-Gargle for Sore Throat- Refreshing Drink for a Sore Throat-A Wash to Prevent the Hair from falling off-Cures for a Cold in the Head- For Burns, or Scalds--For Sprains-For Chilblains-For Cracked Lips For Warts For Stings from a Wasp or Bee-For Tooth- ache-For Chapped Hands-Continental Drink in Treatment of Typhus Ferer - Cold Cream-How to Make Tea and Coffee How to Extract Colour from Cochineal . . . 445 .. . Bills of Fare for every Montn in the Year, in English and French Glossary . . . . . . . . . Index . . . . . . . . . . Miscellaneous Recipes . . Instructions for the Service of Wines instructions for making Drinking-Cups . . . . 434 485 489 452 455 461 . ... . THE COOK'S GUIDE and HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION It ought never to be lost sight of, that good stocks, broths, gravies, and essences of meats, &c., are essen- tial to the basis of all culinary compositions, especi- ally when it is desirable to attain any degree of per- fection in the various preparations required for the production of a recherché dinner. On ordinary occasions, and when dining en famille, these may be in a great measure dispensed with ; yet, even then, a little good stock ready to hand will ever prove a great element towards success. And it is therefore that I consider it most useful to commence by giving easy instructions for what I may term “ The very soul of all Cookery," namely- No. 1.—THE STOCK-POT. Place in a well-tinned stock-pot, capable of contain- ing about eight gallons, about ten pounds of leg or shin of beef, and an equal weight of knuckles of veal, cut into pieces ; to these add the carcass of an old hen and a knuckle of ham ; moisten with two quarts of broth or water; set the stock-pot on the fire to boil down sharply until the liquid has become reduced to a glaze. THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND The heat must then be slackened by placing ashes upon the fire in order to abate its fierceness, so as to allow the glaze to attain a light-brown colour, with- out its being burnt and carbonized: if this latter accident happen, it tends considerably to diminish the stomachic qualities and flavour of the stock or consommé. As soon as the consolidation of the glaze is effected, make up the fire, fill up the stock-pot, and when it boils, skim it thoroughly; after which garnish with six car- rots, four onions, three turnips, four leeks, two heads of celery, and an onion in which twelve cloves have been stuck; season with three ounces of salt, and having allowed the stock to continue gently boiling for about five hours, remove the grease from its surface; and then proceed to strain it through a sieve into clean pans for use, as will be directed hereafter. No. 2.—WHITE VEAL STOCK. · Break up a knuckle of veal and place it in a five- gallon stewpan, with any trimmings of meat you may have, a couple of rabbits from which you have removed the fillets for an entrée, and also an old hen—the fillets of which may serve for force-meat; to these add about a pound of lean bacon or ham ; fill up with water, boil and skim the stock well, garnish with four carrots, two turnips, two heads of celery, and a handful of parsley tied up with a bay-leaf and a good sprig of thyme, a handful of mush- rooms, a blade of mace, six cloves, twelve peppercorns, and two ounces of salt: allow your stock to boil very gently by the side of a slow fire for about four hours, skimming it occasionally; and then strain it off into clean pans for use as occasion requires. No. 3.- BROWN GRAVY. First, place some flattened pieces of beef-suet at the bottom of a stewpan capable of holding the intended quantity of gravy to be produced (calculating at the HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. rate of one and a half pound of meat to a quart of water), cover the suet with thick slices of onions, and over all put thick slices of beef, or any trimmings of meat or bones you may happen to have by you; moisten with stock or water in sufficient quantity barely to cover the surface of the meat, and next set the stewpan thus pre- pared on a brisk fire, to boil sharply until the liquor is reduced to a glaze ; when, after slackening the heat of the fire, it must be further allowed to consolidate by reduction, in order that it may become of a very brown colour without burning. The stewpan must now be filled up with cold water, allowed to boil, be well skimmed, garnished with three carrots, two heads of celery, a blade of mace, eight cloves stuck in an onion, twelve peppercorns, and two ounces of salt. The quantities of garnish and seasoning here named are intended for a three or four gallon sized stewpan. When the gravy has boiled gently for three or four hours, strain it off carefully for use. No. 4.—GAME STOCK. Line the bottom of a stewpan of suitable size with slices of raw ham or lean bacon; place thereon car- casses of any kind of game you may happen to have ;- I say carcasses because it will readily be understood that to use any kind of game for this purpose without having previously extracted the fillets for entrées, &c., would be extravagant indeed: the remains of roasted game would serve in this case equally well. Thus, having placed the game in the stewpan, moisten with a quart of stock, boil it down sharply over a good fire until reduced to glaze ; fill up with stock or water ; garnish with carrots, onions, celery, six cloves and a little salt; and, after being well skimmed, and allowed to boil gently until the meat is thoroughly done, strain it off for use. 82 THE COOK'S GOIDE, AND No. 5.- ECONOMICAL STOCK. Garnish the bottom of a large stewpan as directed in No. 3, and then, having broken up any bones from cold joints or otherwise, place them in the stewpan also, and proceed in all other respects according to instruc- tions for the preparation of brown gravy. This econo- mical stock may be further improved by clarifying it with one pound of fresh lean beef chopped fine, pounded and mixed with a quart of cold water, and two whites of eggs; the whole to be stirred into the broth, care being taken first to free it from every particle of grease ; and after allowing this stock to boil for half an hour be- side the fire, it may be strained through a cloth or nap- kin for use. No. 6.—HOW TO CLARIFY STOCKS OR BROTHS. When from some cause or other your stocks are not bright and clear, as they should be if properly attended to in boiling down to a glaze, or else through insufficient skimming, the evil so produced may be remedied thus :—Chop a pound of lean beef or veal, and then pound it to a very fine smooth pulp with three whites of eggs in a mortar; to this add a quart of cold water; mix the whole in the stewpan of broth to be clarified, due care having been previously taken to re- move every particle of grease : let the mixture now be stirred over a brisk fire until it boils, then to be removed to the side, there to continue gently boiling for half an hour; when, if perfectly bright, it must be strained through a cloth or napkin into an earthen pan. It happens sometimes, that from either the stock being very thick and dull, or more frequently through want of proper attention to the foregoing instructions, the first clarification proves insufficient to clear the stock in a satisfactory manner. This fault will be rectified by the addition of two more whites of eggs well whipped HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. E in a pint of cold water, which being well mixed in the stock, and allowed to boil for a quarter of an hour longer, will then become bright enough. No. 7.—ASPIC JELLY. Break up about ten pounds of knuckles of veal, and place them in a stock-pot together with four calf's feet, and an old hen; fill up with about four gallons of water, and having set it to boil on the fire, let it be thoroughly skimmed, and then garnished with four carrots, two heads of celery, four onions, a bunch of parsley tied up with two bay-leaves, some thyme and a little marjoram; season with two ounces of salt, eight cloves, and twenty. peppercorns; and, after the stock has boiled very gently for about five hours, without having sensibly diminished in quantity, proceed to strain it off into pans to cool in the larder for the next day's process; viz. that of clari- fication. In order to accomplish this very essential operation with any chance of success, it is of the last importance to pay strict attention to the removal of every particle of grease from the surface of the pans containing the aspic stock. This is to be done by first scraping off all the fatty substance with a spoon, and then pouring a little hot water over the stock, which should be imme- diately drained off, and the surface dabbed over with a clean napkin, so as to absorb any remaining grease. This done, the aspic stock should be placed in a proper-sized stewpan, and set on the fire to dissolve; when, after having lightly drawn some pieces of paper over its surface in order to remove any remaining stray grease, you must now mix in six whole eggs, previously whipped together with a pint of water, half a pint of common French white wine, and a wineglassful of tarragon vinegar; this done, place the stock upon the fire, and continue whipping it with a wire whisk until it begins to boil; remove it to the side of the fire, there to continue gently simmering with the stewpan lid on, THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND for about half an hour: it must then be passed through a jelly-bag; or, if very clear and bright, it may be passed through a napkin, and poured into deep sautapans placed upon ice, ready for use, as will be directed hereafter. No. 8.—ECONOMICAL ASPIC JELLY. Put a quart of good stock broth in a stewpan; add six shalots, two bay-leaves, a good sprig of thyme, six cloves, a bit of mace, and four ounces of gelatine : place this upon the fire, and continue stirring it until the gelatine becomes thoroughly dissolved : it must then be removed from the fire to cool. Next, whip three whites of eggs with half a pint of cold water, and a table-spoon- ful of tarragon vinegar, and having well mixed this in the aspic, stir it over the fire until it boils; and then, after allowing it to boil for ten minutes longer, pass it either through a jelly-bag or a napkin : it will then be fit for use. No. 9.—BROWN THICKENING FOR SAUCES. Put a pound of butter into a stewpan upon a slow fire to dissolve and throw up the milk it contains in the form of skum ; remove this with a spoon, and then pour off the pure oiled butter into another clean stew- pan; add to this a pound of sifted flour, and, after having well mixed both together with a wooden spoon, continue stirring the thickening over a slow fire for about an hour, for the purpose of baking it of a very light brown or fawn colour; it must then be poured into an earthern pan to be kept ready for use. No. 10.- WHITE THICKENING FOR SAUCES. For this preparation it will only be necessary to fol- low the directions set forth in No. 9, with this excep- tion, that the thickening must not be allowed to become at all coloured ; and in order to prevent this accident, it will be essential to remember that it must be baked over 2. very slow fire. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER 8 ASSISTANT. ? No. 11.—EXTRACT OF GAME FOR GRAVY. Chop up any remains of game or bones thereof, and put them into a stewpan with a bit of butter, four shalots chopped, a bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme, three cloves, and a few peppercorns ; fry these over the fire until they become browned ; then add a pint of stock or water; boil this for a quarter of an hour, and strain it through a sieve for use, as occasion requires. No. 12.—BROWN SAUCE. Put about a gallon of stock, No. 1, or brown gravy, No. 3, into a stewpan on the fire; and when it is warm, stir into this three-quarters of a pound of brown thicken- ing, No. 9. Continue stirring the sauce on the fire until it begins to boil, and then remove it to the side, there to re- main very gently simmering for an hour, with the lid on the stewpan; by that time all the butter of which the thickening is composed will have risen to the surface; this, together with the skum, must be removed ; and after allowing the sauce to boil very gently by the side of the stove for another quarter of an hour, continuously removing the skum as it rises, strain the sauce into a basin for use, as will be hereafter directed. No. 13.—WHITE SAUCE. This sauce is prepared in the same manner as brown sauce, No.12, excepting that, white veal stock, No. 2, and white thickening, No. 10, must be used for this pur- pose. No. 14.—ECONOMY OF SECOND STOCKS OR BROTHS. Whenever any kind of soup or sauce-stock has been strained off, it is an important part of good management that the stock-pot or stewpan should be filled up a second time, with the addition of half the original quantity of vegetables and seasoning; and allowed to boil very gently for about six hours, and then strained off; and, after being freed from grease, boiled down to glaze over a brisk fire. THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND The proper manner for finishing the latter part of this operation is to remove the glaze from the large stew- pan when the broth is reduced to a sixth part of its original quantity, and then to be further reduced by gently boiling on the corner of the stove until it pre- sents the appearance of thin treacle ; during the opera. tion of boiling down, the stock must be frequently skimmed to remove all impurities as they naturally rise to the surface. When the glaze has attained its proper consistency, let it be strained into a pan and kept in a cool place for use, as will be hereafter indicated. Note.—Glaze is also made with beef, veal, old hens, or any kinds of game-stocks prepared for that purpose; and it is easily understood that the cost would be com- pensated by the greater degree of perfection'; yet as ex- pense is to be avoided—on ordinary occasions' at least- I have preferred giving the details for the preparation of the most economical sort of glaze. No. 15.—WHITE BECHAMEL SAUCE. Put four ounces of flour into a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter; knead these together smoothly by working them with a wooden spoon; next add an onion, a small carrot, half a head of celery, some parsley, a bay- leaf, and thyme (the vegetables cut thin), a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt; moisten with a pint and a half of milk, stir the sauce over the fire while it boils sharply for twenty minutes; then strain it through a tammy cloth or pointed strainer into a basin—afterwards to be immediately removed into a convenient sized covered stewpan or bainmarie, for use. Note. Allow me here to impress upon your minds how all-important it is that whenever you are stirring a sauce upon the fire, you must bear with some strength and a little tact on the edge of the bowl of the wooden spoon, so as to prevent the sauce from burning at the bottom of the stewpan while it is being reduced; for rest assured that whenever through negli HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. gence this occurs, the sauce is spoilt. These remarks apply more especially to such sauces as contain milk or cream. No. 16.—CREAM BECHAMEL SAUCE. Put a pint of white sauce, No. 13, into a stewpan, with a few sliced mushrooms or some mushroom juice, reduce this by stirring it over the fire for ten minutes, then add half a pint of cream; and, as soon as the sauce comes to a boil, strain it into a basin or stewpan for use. No. 17.—ALLEMANDE SAUCE. Proceed as directed in No. 16, and when the sauce is reduced, remove it from the fire for a few minutes in order to lessen the heat, and then stir into it a leason* of four yolks of eggs, half a pint of cream, a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt, a teaspoonful of pounded sugar, and the juice of half a lemon ; now stir the sauce quickly over the fire again for five minutes, in order to set the leason, and then strain it off for use. No. 18.—ECONOMICAL WHITE SAUCE. Mix well in a stewpan two ounces of flour, one ounce of butter, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, to these add a pint of milk ; stir over the fire for ten minutes, and strain off for use. No. 19.—POIVRADE SAUCE. · Cut up into very small square pieces an ounce of lean ham or bacon, the same quantities of carrot, celery, and onion, a bay-leaf and thyme, twenty peppercorns, and a bit of mace; fry these ingredients in a small stew pan, with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, until the whole becomes well browned ; add a wineglass of vinegar and half that quantity of mushroom catsup, and a teaspoonful of anchovy; and when this has boiled * From the French liaison, used here to mean a thickening or binding. 10 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND down to half its original quantity, then add about half a pint of brown sauce, a few spoonfuls of good stock, and a wineglassful of sherry; let the sauce boil gently by the tide of the fire, to throw up the grease, &c., which having been removed, strain through a sieve or strainer into a small stewpan for use. Note.—It frequently happens in small households that ready-made brown sauce is not to be had ; in such cases, and in order to save time and expense, a little thickening can be easily made by using for that pur- pose equal proportions of butter and flour kneaded together, and stirred quickly over a slow fire for three minutes, and moistened with good stock, or any kind of broth. No. 20.—GENOESE SAUCE Is made by adding to a pint of brown sauce a glass of red wine, a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, a tea. spoonful of anchovy, a lump of sugar, a little nutmeg, and some chopped parsley; boil well together for five minutes, and then work in a pat of butter. Note.—This sauce is used for dressed fish. No. 21.—TOMATA SAUCE. Ready preserved pulp of this powerfully antiscorbutic vegetable is always to be had at Crosse and Blackwell's warehouse, Soho-square. Put into a small stewpan six sliced shalots, a bay-leaf and thyme, and a wineglass of vinegar; boil these gently for five minutes, then add about a quarter of a pound of tomata pulp, an ounce of glaze, No. 14, a teaspoonful of anchovy, and a lump of sugar; stir over the fire until the whole has boiled for five minutes, then pass it with pressure through a pointed tin strainer into a small stewpan for use. No. 22.—PIQUANT SAUCE. First prepare of gherkins, capers, and shalots, all chopped as fine as dust, a tablespoonful of each; place these in a small stewpan with a little pepper and a HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 11 wineglassful of vinegar; set this to boil for about four minutes, then add rather better than half a pint of good stock, an ounce of brown thickening, No. 9, a small bit of glaze and a teaspoonful of anchovy ; boil, skim, and pour into a small stewpan for use. No. 23.- ITALIAN SAUCE. Place in a small stewpan a dessert-spoonful of very finely chopped shalots, an equal quantity of salad-oil, a bay-leaf and thyme ; and stir this over the fire in order to fry the shalot without allowing it to acquire any colour whatever, as, in that case, the shalot would become bitter and spoil the sauce. When the shalot is fried in a satisfactory manner, add thereto a good tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, a glass of sherry, a glass of mushroom catsup, a teaspoonful of anchovy, half a pint of stock, and an ounce of thickening, No. 9; stir over the fire until the sauce boils, and then allow it to throw up by the side for ten minutes; skim it, and pour it into a stewpan for use. No. 24.—FINANCIERE SAUCE. Put a pint of good stock into a stewpan with an ounce and a half of thickening, No. 9; stir over the fire until it boils, and then add a glass of madeira or sherry, a glass of mushroom catsup, and a small pinch of cayenne; allow the sauce to remain gently boiling by the side of the fire to clear itself, for about a quarter of an hour; remove the skum, boil it down for five minutes longer, and then add a small piece of glaze, and when this is dissolved, strain the sauce into a small stewpan for use. No. 25.—BROWN CAPER SAUCE. Put four ounces of butter in a stewpan with one ounce of flour, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt; knead these well together with a wooden spoon, add rather less than half a pint of stock, or water, a teaspoonful of 12 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND anchovy, a tablespoonful of Harvey, a little browning, and a good tablespoonful of capers; stir the sauce over the fire until it begins to boil, then add about one ounce of butter, mix well to make it smooth, and the sauce will be ready to serve with fried or broiled fish. No. 26.—WHITE CAPER SAUCE. Four ounces of butter, one and a half ounces of flour; nutmeg, pepper and salt, well kneaded together in a small stewpan; then add a small piece of glaze and nearly half a pint of water; stir over the fire until the sauce begins to boil, then mix in a bit more fresh butter to smooth it; add the capers, and serve with boiled mutton. No. 27.—SHARP SAUCE. Four ounces of fresh butter, one and a half ounces of flour; nutmeg, pepper and salt, eight gherkins and a few capers chopped fine, a little browning and two table- spoonfuls of Harvey; knead well together in a small stewpan, add half a pint of water, stir over the fire until the sauce begins to boil, and then, after mixing in a bit of glaze the size of a walnut, serve with boiled beef, or boiled mutton. No. 28.—REFORM SAUCE. Prepare some poivrade sauce, No. 19; to this add a glass of port wine, half that quantity of Harvey, a tea- spoonful of anchovy, and two good tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly ; boil together for five minutes, and pour into a clean small stewpan for use. No. 29.—CHEVREUIL SAUCE. The same as the foregoing, excepting that French red wine should be used instead of port, and also that eight small gherkins, sliced as thin as wafers, be added to the sauce. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 13 No. 30.-- BRAWN SAUCE, COLD. Mix in a basin a gill of salad-oil, half a gill of vinegar, two ounces of brown sugar, the juice and rind of an orange shred very fine, and a tablespoonful of mustard. No. 31.—GERMAN SAUCE FOR BOAR'S HEAD. Mix in a basin a gill of salad-oil, a wineglassful of vinegar, half a pound of bruised red currant jelly, two ounces of pounded white sugar, the juice of two oranges, and the rind of one shred very fine, a large stick of horse-radish grated, and a tablespoonful of French mustard. This sauce must be served cold; it is equally good with brawn. No. 32.—MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE. Take about a gill of bechamel sauce, No. 16, in a small stewpan, make it hot, stir in two ounces of fresh butter, a tablespoonful of chopped blanched parsley, a little pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon. No. 33.- ECONOMICAL MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE. Knead two ounces of fresh butter with one ounce of flour; nutmeg, pepper and salt, chopped parsley, and half a lemon juice ; place this mixture in a small stew- pan, with either a gill of milk or cream ; stir over the fire until it is near coming to a boil; add a bit more butter to smooth it, and serve. No. 34.—RAVIGOTTE SAUCE. This is prepared in the first instance exactly in the same manner as the two foregoing maître d'hôtel sauces ; the difference being that a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, ditto of chili vinegar, ditto of Harvey, and a teaspoonful of anchovy (being first boiled in a separate small stewpan for five minutes) must be stirred into the sauce. THE COOR'S GUIDE, AND No. 35.—ROBERT SAUCE. Chop two onions very fine, and fry them with a bit of butter the size of a large walnut, in a small stewpan, until they assume a light-brown colour; then add a wineglassful of vinegar and a good pinch of pepper, and boil these together for four minutes ; next add a good tablespoonful of flour, or an ounce of thickening, No. 9, and half a pint of stock or water, and a bit of glaze; stir the sauce over the fire for twenty minutes, then add a tablespoonful of French mustard, one of Harvey, and a teaspoonful of anchovy; mix well together over the fire, and serve quite hot. No. 36.—POULETTE SAUCE. Put a gill of white sauce, No. 13, into a stewpan; add thereto a leason of three yolks of eggs and a little cream, pepper and salt, half the juice of a lemon, and stir it over the fire until the leason is set: then add some chopped parsley and a few turned mushrooms, and serve as directed. No. 37.- MAYONAISE SAUCE. Take a round-bottomed basin, place therein three yolks of eggs, a little pepper and salt, and with a wooden spoon proceed to work therein by turning the spoon round quickly, about half a pint of salad-oil and half a gill of tarragon vinegar; these must be incor- porated by degrees; and in order to produce the sauce in perfection, it must present the appearance of a film creamy substance. This cold sauce is especially adapted for chicken and lobster salads. No. 38.—TARTAR SAUCE. Prepare some mayonaise, No. 37, and mix therewith a tablespoonful of French mustard, a little chopped spring- onions, and some chopped tarragon and chervil; and a teaspoonful of anchovy. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 15 No. 39.—MELTED BUTTER, OR BUTTER SAUCE. Knead two ounces of fresh butter with one ounce of flour in a small stewpan; add a gill of water; season with a little pepper and salt, and stir over the fire until tie sauce thickens, but do not allow it to boil ; finish by working into it a bit more butter, and serve. No. 40.—LOBSTER SAUCE. Split a lobster, remove the pith, coral, and spawn to be pounded with an equal proportior. of butter in a mortar, and afterwards rubbed through a hair-sieve on a plate ; break the shell, and having removed all the meat, cut it into large or small square pieces, according to fancy. Next, prepare some melted butter, No. 39, to this add the spawn and the lobster, season with the juice of half a lemon, a teaspoonful of anchovy, and a pinch of cayenne pepper, and serve hot. No. 41.—SHRIMP SAUCE. Prepare butter sauce, No. 39 ; to this add a teaspoonful of anchovy, a small pinch of cayenne, a little lemon juice, and a bit of lobster butter to colour and flavour it; lastly, throw in the picked shrimps, and serve hot. No. 42.—MUSCLE SAUCE. Put a quart of washed muscles into a stewpan with a gill of water and a teaspoonful of salt; over all spread a wet cloth or napkin, and having placed the lid on, set the muscles upon a brisk fire to scald ; this will be effected in a few minutes, and may be ascertained by the sepa- ration of the shells—showing the plump white muscles ; these should be instantly taken off the fire, their liquor strained into a basin, and the muscles removed from their shells upon a plate. Next, put some allemande, No. 17, into a stewpan; add a little anchovy, lemon 16 THE COOR'S GUIDE, AND juice, cayenne, and the liquor boiled down to the value of a tablespoonful; throw in the muscles, stir gently together, and serve hot. Note.- When inconvenient to prepare allemande, melted butter may be substituted; in this case, three yolks of eggs, a little cream, and nutmeg, should be added. No. 43.—WHITE OYSTER SAUCE. First, scald and beard the oysters, and save their liquor; next, knead two ounces of butter with one ounce of flour in a stewpan ; add the liquor, a gill of cream or milk, a little nutmeg, cayenne, anchovy, and lemon juice; stir over the fire until the sauce boils, then add the oysters, and serve hot. No. 44.—BROWN OYSTER SAUCE. Prepare the oysters as in the foregoing receipt, boil down their liquor, add half a pint of brown sauce, No. 12; season with a little anchovy, cayenne, and lemon- juice, add the oysters; boil together for a few minutes, and serve hot. Note-When no brown sauce is ready, use melted butter instead, adding a little browning, No. 76. No. 45.—EGG SAUCE Boil two or more eggs hard, which will require six minutes; remove the shells, cut each egg into eight pieces, and put these into some well-made melted butter, No. 39. No. 46. —PORT-WINE SAUCE FOR WILD FOWL. To a glass of port wine add the juice of half a lemon, three shalots sliced, a pinch of cayenne, a tablespoonful of Harvey; boil for five minutes, and strain into a sauce boat. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 17 No. 47.—VENISON SAUCE. Two tablespoonfuls of port wine, a small stick of cinnamon bruised, the thin rind of a lemon, half a pound of red-currant jelly; boil for five minutes, and strair. into a sauceboat. No. 48.—PARSLEY SAUCE. Chop fine and parboil for three minutes a handful of parsley, drain free from water, and add this to some melted butter or any other white sauce ; work in a pat of butter to smooth the sauce, and serve hot. No. 49.—ANCHOVY SAUCE. To some melted butter add a dessert-spoonful of anchovy, a pinch of cayenne, and lemon-juice. No. 50.—APPLE SAUCE. Peal, core, and slice up six apples, and put them into a small stewpan with one ounce of sugar and the rind of half a lemon; add a small piece of butter and a gill of water ; stew over a slow fire until the apples are dis- solved, then rub through a sieve, and serve hot. No. 51.—GREEN GOOSEBERRY SAUCE. Boil half a pint of green gooseberries, drain off the water; rub them through a hair sieve; put this pulp into a stewpan with a wineglassful of green raw sorrel or spinach juice; add a small piece of butter, a pinch of sugar, nutmeg, pepper, and salt; make hot, and serve with boiled or grilled mackerel. No. 52.—FENNEL SAUCE. This is prepared in same manner as parsley sauce, by using fennel instead of parsley, see No. 48. THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 53.—MUSTARD SAUCE. Add to some melted butter a teaspoonful of French or English mustard, a dessert-spoonful of chilli vinegar, and a little anchovy; make hot, and serve with broiled or fried herrings. The soft roes may be added. No. 54.—BROWN BUTTER SAUCE. Put four ounces of fresh butter into a stewpan on the fire, and keep stirring it until it becomes browned by frying; then add a small wineglassful of tarragon vinegar, ditto of Harvey, a tablespoonful of chopped capers, a little anchovy, and either a gill of brown sauce or gravy; boil this together for five minutes, and serve over boiled skate or grilled mackerel. No. 55.—ONION SAUCE. Peel, slice, and boil six large onions for ten minutes; drain them free from water, and put them into a stew- pan with two ounces of four and two ounces of butter; mix these well, and then add a pint of milk; season with nutmeg, pepper, and salt; stir over the fire for ten minutes; add a little cream, and serve hot over boiled rabbits, or with roast mutton, &c. No. 56.—BRETONNE SAUCE. Chop fine two large onions, fry them in a stewpan with a bit of butter, of a light-brown colour; then add one ounce of flour, half a pint of stock, or water, a spoon- ful of brown colouring, pepper, and salt; stir over the fire for ten minutes, and serve hot, as will be hereafter indicated. No. 57.—GREEN RAVIGOTTE SAUCE. Procure green tarragon, chervil, chives, and parsley, in equal quantities ; parboil these in water with a little salt until tender; then drain off all the water, squeeze them in a cloth, and pound them in a mortar with two HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 19 ounces of fresh butter; and having rubbed this through a hair sieve, proceed to incorporate it into some well- made Bechamel sauce, No. 16, or some melted butter : just before using this sauce, add a very little tarragon vinegar and anchovy. No. 58.—SOUBISE SAUCE. Peel and slice thin eight large onions; and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, nutmeg, pepper, and salt; place the lid on, and set this to stew very slowly over a slack fire, until the onions are nearly dissolved: they must not be allowed to acquire any colour. Next, add four ounces of flour, two fresh-boiled mealy potatoes, and a pint of milk, or good stock (in the latter case half-a-pint of cream must be added); stir over the fire for a quarter of an hour, and then rub through a tammy or hair sieve; keep hot in a covered stewpan until used according to directions. No. 59.—NEAPOLITAN SAUCE. Put the following ingredients into a small stewpan, viz.,—a grated stick of horse-radish, four shalots, a bay- leaf and thyme, three cloves, a bit of mace, twenty peppercorns, one ounce of lean ham shaved thin, a glass of port wine, ditto of Harvey, four ounces of red- currant jelly, a little stock, and half a pint of brown sauce; boil these together for a quarter of an hour, add a bit of glaze, strain into a small stew-pan, and serve the sauce according to directions. No. 60.—BOURGUIGNOTTE SAUCE. Put into a small stewpan twenty-four fried button onions, twelve mushrooms, twelve small truffles ; add a glass of red wine and half a pint of brown sauce ; boil together for five minutes, and serve according to direr tions. 02 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 61.—POOR-MAN'S SAUCE. Chop an onion fine, and fry it with a bit of butter or dripping, in a small stewpan; then add a wineglassful of vinegar, pepper, and salt, and a little stock or water; boil these together for five minutes. The addition of mushroom catsup or Harvey would be an improvement. No. 62.—CARDINAL SAUCE. Put a gill of any good white sauce into a small stew- pan, add a lump of lobster-spawn butter, No. 35, a little anchovy, and chilli vinegar. No. 63.—RICHELIEU SAUCE. Peel, slice, and fry four onions, add a few roast game bones chopped fine, and an ounce of flour; mix well to- gether, moisten with a glass of sherry, and half a pint of good stock, a little pepper and salt, and a bit of glaze; stir over the fire for a quarter of an hour, then rub through a tammy or hair sieve, and keep hot in a small stewpan for use. No. 64.—SHALOT GRAVY. Peel and slice six shalots, and put them in a small stewpan with a wineglassful of vinegar, pepper, and salt, and boil this for six minutes; then add a gill of brown gravy, and boil again for other six minutes; strain through a sieve, and use this gravy for broiled outlets and other broiled meats. No. 65.—TRUFFLE SAUCE. Slice four truffles and put them into a small stewpan with a glass of sherry and half a pint of brown sauce, No. 12, and then boil the sauce for ten minutes. KOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 2) No. 66.—MUSHROOM SAUCE. Put a dozen button mushrooms into a small stewpan with a glass of mushroom catsup and half-a-pint of brown sauce, No 12; boil for ten minutes. No. 67.—PERIGUEUX SAUCE. Chop four truffles very fine, put them into a small stewpan with half a pint of brown sauce, a glass of madeira, and as much garlic as will rest on the point of a knife; boil for ten minutes ; add a piece of glaze and a pat of anchovy butter, or a little essence. No. 68.—SALMIS SAUCE. Chop up small some trimmings of the roast game intended for the salmis, and put these into a small stewpan with a bay-leaf and thyme, and a tablespoon- ful of salad-oil; fry the whole of a light-brown colour, and then add a glass of white wine and half a pint of brown sauce; boil gently on the corner of the stove for ten minutes; remove the grease and scum, and strain into a small stewpan for use. No. 69.—PROVENCALE SAUCE. Put into a small stew-pan the following ingredients : viz.,—a spoonful of chopped capers, ditto of chopped raw mushrooms, ditto of chopped shalots, ditto of salad- oil, a clove of garlic, three cloves, a bit of, mace, a bay. leaf and thyme, and twenty peppercorns; fry this over the fire for five minutes, stirring it the whole time; then add four ripe tomatas, a glass of sherry, and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut; stir again on the fire until the tomatas are quite dissolved, and after having rubbed the sauce through a tammy or sieve, pour it into a stew. pan to be made hot for use. Add a piece of glaze. THE COOK'S GUIDS, AND No. 70.—BREAD SAUCE. Make about two ounces of fine bread crumbs, and put them into a small stewpan with a shalot, pepper, and salt, half a pint of milk or cream, and a small pat of butter; stir this over the fire to boil for five minutes ; remove the shalot, and serve hot in a sauceboat. No. 71.—FRIED BREAD CRUMBS. Put—say four ounces of bread crumbs into a sautapan or a frying pan with an ounce of fresh butter, and stir them over the fire with a wooden spoon until they assume a light-brown colour; then throw them on a sheet of paper to absorb the grease, and keep them in reserve to be served as directed. No. 72.—SPINACH GREENING. Wash thoroughly half a peck of spinach, and put it dripping wet into a mortar; pound it into a pulp, and then place the pulp and juice in a strong cloth; twist the sides thereof tightly over, and then let two persons take a hold of each end and wring the juice out from the pulp in the same manner as you would wring out a sheet or any large cloth after washing it: a dish must be placed under the cloth to receive the juice as it is wrung out. Next, pour the extract or spinach-juice into a small stewpan and set it over the fire; and, as soon as it curdles, scrape it out with a spoon upon a sieve in order to separate the water from the finished pulp; and a few minutes after it has drained, place it in a covered basin in a very cool place, to be used as hereafter indicated. No. 73.—INDIAN SAUCE. For half a pint of Tomata sauce, No 21, add a table- spoonful of diluted and strained curry-paste, a bit of glaze, and a little anchovy; boil together, and serve. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 23 No. 74.—FINE-HERBS SAUCE. First chop very fine the following ingredients : viz. -a dozen mushrooms, four shalots, and a little parsley; put these into a small stewpan with a bit of butter, stir over the fire for five minutes, then add a gill of brown sauce, No. 12 (or a spoonful of flour and a gill of gravy), the juice of half a lemon, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and a pinch of sugar; boil for a few minutes, and serve as directed. No. 75.—D'UXELLES SAUCE. Chop fine the following ingredients in equal propor- tions, according to the quantity of sauce required for present use : viz., -mushrooms, trufies, ham, parsley, and shalots ; put these into a small stewpan with an ounce of scraped fat bacon, and stir the whole over the fire for six minutes; then add about half a pint of sauce, the juice of half a lemon, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, a good pinch of sugar, and four yolks of eggs; stir again over the fire to set the eggs, and use the D'Uxelles as herein directed. No. 76.—BROWN COLOURING. Put two ounces of common sugar in a stew pan with a spoonful of water, and set it to boil on the fire; as soon as the sugar begins to gain any colour, slacken the heat, and continue stirring with a wooden spoon so that it may bake slowly, and become nearly black by degrees without being calcined or burnt; when sufficiently baked, add a pint of water, boil and skim it for five minutes, and when cold, bottle it off for use as occasion requires. No. 77.—CHATEAUBRIAND SAUCE. Half a pint of poivrade, No. 19, four truffles chopped fine, two ounces of red-currant jelly, and a glass of red wine; boil together for five minutes. THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 78.—HORSERADISH SAUCE. Scrape clean and grate a stick of horse-radish, and put it into a basin ; add thereto a gill of cream, a dessert- spoonful of made mustard, the same of pounded sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, and rather better than a tablespoonful of vinegar; mix well together and serve in a cold sauceboat, with roast beef. No. 79.—DUTCH SAUCE. Four yolks of raw eggs, two ounces of fresh butter, half a gill of cream, a very small quantity of nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and a teaspoonful of elder vinegar :- having put the foregoing ingredients into a small stew pan, place it within another stewpan of rather larger size, containing half a pint of hot water, and then, after placing the sauce in its bath over the fire, proceed to work it swiftly, either with a wire whisk or small wooden spoon, until it begins to thicken and present a rich, smooth, creamy appearance. Great care must be taken to prevent this sauce from curdling and becoming decomposed, which may be prevented by not stirring it. over too fierce a fire. If, however, this accident should occur, by adding either two more yolks, or a spoonful of white sauce, it will be remedied. Note.—Dutch sauce may also be flavoured with either of the following vinegars :—tarragon, chilli, shalot, ra- vigotte, anchovy, or fine herbs. These vinegars are to be obtained in perfection only at Crosse and Blackwell's, Soho-square. No. 80.—CLEAR TARRAGON SAUCE. To a pint of good stock made from veal and poultry, add a small bunch of tarragon, the white of an egg whipped with a very little water, and a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar; continue whisking this over the fire until it boils, and then remove it to the side, there to remain boiling until the egg is thoroughly set hard, and HOUSEKEEPER S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 25 the aspic is perfectly bright; then strain it through a napkin into a stewpan, and boil it down to the consist- ency of half glaze. This sauce or essence is used for quenelles, and boiled fowls or chickens. No. 81.--THE PRINCE OF WALES' SAUCE. First, prepare the following ingredients, viz.: four hard yolks of eggs, four anchovies washed and wiped, a handful of tarragon, chervil, burnet, chives; these to be well parboiled, and afterwards pressed in a cloth to extract all the water ; a tablespoonful of capers, the same of French mustard, and three raw yolks of eggs; place all these in a mortar, bruise them together with a pestle, and then proceed to work in nearly half a pint of salad-oil, and half a gill of tarragon vinegar by degrees. When this is done, rub the sauce thus pro- duced through a hair sieve or tammy. Note. This sauce is used for broiled fish or meats à la Tartare ; also for all kinds of salads of fish, poultry, or game. No. 82.—CAZANOVA SAUCE. Take mayonaise sauce, No. 37, add four large truffles shred fine, and as much garlic or shalot as will rest on the point of a knife, the whites of three hard eggs shred also, and three yolks of hard eggs rubbed through a wire sieve; mix, and serve this with any kind of salad. No. 83.—DEVIL'S SAUCE. To a tablespoonful of Oude sauce, add a glassful of Harvey, six shalots sliced, a gill of brown gravy, and a tablespoonful of vinegar ; boil together for five minutes, and strain it into a small stewpan. No. 84.—HAM SAUCE. Shred fine two ounces of lean boiled ham, and put this into a small stewpan with three shalots chopped, 26 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND or a like quantity of chopped chives when in season, and a bit of butter; fry these over the fire without bruising the ham for four minutes; then add a gill of brown sauce, the juice of half a lemon, a little pepper, and some chopped parsley; boil the sauce for five minutes, and serve it with veal cutlets or any broiled meats. No. 85.—CURRY SAUCE. Peel and slice six large onions, put them into a covered stewpan, with two ounces of butter, over a slow fire to stew, without acquiring any colour; then add three apples sliced, without peeling them; and having replaced the whole on the fire again, as soon as these are also dissolved, add a good tablespoonful of Captain White's curry paste ; moisten with a pint of good gravy, and having stirred the sauce over the fire for twenty minutes, rub it through a hair sieve or tammy, and put it into a small stewpan, to be used as will be hereafter indicated. No. 86.—BROWN MATELOTTE SAUCE. Put half a pint of brown sauce, No. 12, into a small stewpan, add a gill of French red wine, eighteen button mushrooms, and the same number of fried button onions; boil together for ten minutes, season with a little nutmeg, pepper, and a pinch of sugar, work in a pat of butter, a little anchovy, and serve according to directions. No. 87.—WHITE MATELOTTE SAUCE. Scald, beard, and drain two dozen oysters, and put their liquor in a stewpan with a glassful of French white wine, some mushroom juice, and half a pint of white sauce of any kind; stir this over the fire to reduce by boiling for a quarter of an hour, then add three yolks and half a gill of cream, a little anchovy, a pinch of sugar, and the juice of half a lemon ; stir HOUSEKEEPER’S IND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 27 again over the fire to set the leason, and strain the sauce into a small stewpan containing the oysters, and a like number of button mushrooms. This sauce is intended specially for what is termed Matelotte Nor- mande ; but it is also well adapted for many other kinds of dressed fish. No. 88.—AURORA SAUCE. Put into a small stewpan half a pint of Allemande, No. 17, half a gill of Tomata, No. 21, add a teaspoonful of chilli vinegar, a tablespoonful of Harvey, a tea- spoonful of anchovy, and a good pat of butter; stir over the fire until hot, and serve with fillets of fish of all kinds. No. 89.—STRAGOTTO SAUCE. Take an ounce of each of the following ingredients, viz.: raw ham, red part of a carrot, celery-root, parsley- roots, shalots, of raw game four ounces, one clove of garlic, twenty peppercorns, four cloves, a bit of mace ;-- the ham, &c., must be cut up into very small pieces ;- put the whole of the before-named ingredients into a stewpan with two tablespoonsful of salad-oil, a bay-leaf, and some thyme, and fry them brown; then add a gill of madeira or sherry, half a pint of Tomata pulp, half a pint of good stock, and four ounces of glaze; stir the Stragotto over the fire for twenty minutes, rub it through a sieve or tammy, and keep it in gallipots covered over with lard in a cool place, to be used as occasion requires, for Italian dishes only. No. 90.—LYONNAISE SAUCE. Peel and cut into thick shreds two Portugal onions, and fry them in a stewpan with a spoonful of oil, pepper, and salt, of a light-brown colour; they must be occasionally stirred with a fork in order not to bruise them, and when fried, add a gill of Tomata, No. 21, a piece of glaze, and the juice of half a lemon; boil gently for five minutes. 28 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 91-CELERY SAUCE. Thoroughly cleanse four heads of white celery and slice them very thin; put this into a stewpan with nut- meg, pepper, and salt, and four ounces of butter and an onion sliced; put the lid on the stewpan and set it over a slow fire to stew very gently until the celery is dissolved, without acquiring any colour. Then add four ounces of four and a pint of milk; stir again over the fire until the sauce has boiled twenty minutes, and then, having rubbed it through a sieve or tammy, put it into a small stewpan; to be used for boiled poultry or game. No. 92.—RUSSIAN SAUCE. Put the following ingredients into a small stewpan, viz. : a stick of horseradish scraped, four sliced shalots, a bay-leaf and thyme, a little raw ham chopped, nut- meg, pepper, and salt, a dessert-spoonful of sugar, a small glass of vinegar, a like quantity of wine, and an ounce of butter; put the lid on, and set this to simmer over a very slow heat for about twenty minutes, in order thoroughly to extract the flavour. Next, add rather better than a gill of white sauce, four yolks of eggs, and a gill of cream ; stir this over the fire until it begins to boil, and then strain it through a tammy into a stewpan for use. No. 93.—ALMOND CREAM SAUCE. Scald one ounce of Jordan almonds and six bitter almonds; and, having freed them from their hulls or skins, put them in a mortar with four ounces of sugar and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water: bruise them into a pulp, and then remove this into a small stew. pan; add a gill of cream and two yolks of raw eggs, and with a wire whisk whip the sauce over a very slow heat until it becomes a substantial smooth froth. This sauce is for puddings. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. • No. 94.—PLUM SAUCE. Remove the stones from a pint of Orleans plums, and put these into a stewpan with a gill of water, and four ounces of sugar; stir them over a sharp fire until the plums are dissolved, and then rub the sauce through a sieve or tammy, to be afterwards used to pour over steamed sweet puddings. Note.—Similar kinds of pudding sauce may be prepared in the same manner, by using for such purposes either peaches, or nectarines, apricots, damsons, &c. No. 95.—CHERRY SAUCE. Pick the stalks from a pound of Kentish cherries, and bruise them in a mortar so as to crack the stones; re- move this pulp into a sugar-boiler; add a handful of picked red currants, and six ounces of sugar; boil the whole over the fire for about ten minutes (stirring with a wooden spoon), and then rub the sauce through a sieve; afterwards to be used for puddings. No. 96.—RASPBERRY SAUCE. This is prepared by placing raspberries and red currants—say four ounces of each—in a sugar-boiler with a wineglassful of water and four ounces of sugar, and then proceed as indicated for cherry sauce. No. 97.—ARROWROOT SAUCE. To a tablespoonful of arrowroot add twice that quan- tity of sugar, a glass of wine, the juice of half a lemon, and nearly half a pint of milk or water; stir this quickly over the fire until it boils. Note.—This sauce may also be prepared in an almost infinite variety of ways, by using instead of wine, milk or water as a liquid to mix with the arrowroot, the juices extracted from almost all kinds of fruits as well as all kinds of liqueurs; and they may also be flavoured with vanilla, lemon, orange, &c. 30 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND : No. 98.—WINE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. To a gill of melted butter add a glass of wine, rum, or brandy, a little grated lemon or orange-peel, and a spoonful of sugar. No. 99.—WHIP SAUCE. Put four yolks of eggs into a small deep stewpan ; add two ounces of sifted sugar, a glass of sherry, a little lemon. juice and grated peel, and a grain of salt; whisk the sauce over a moderate heat, taking care to set the stew- pan which contains the whip sauce in another of some- what larger size already containing a little hot water, say an inch—and as soon as it presents the appearance of a well-set creamy froth, pour it over a plum pudding, or any other kind of steamed pudding, such as cabinet, soufflé, semolina, &c. Note. This sauce may also be flavoured with all kinds of liqueurs, essences, and syrups of various kinds of fruits. When an essence, or merely orange or lemon sugar, is used for the purpose of flavouring, instead of wine or any other liquid, a glass of milk must be added, to compensate for its absence. No. 100.—ORANGE SAUCE. Rub the rind of two oranges all over several lumps of sugar, and then scrape it off and put it into a small stew- pan with the juice and pulp of four oranges—previously rubbed through a very clean sieve; to this add a spoonful of arrowroot or potato flour, two ounces of sugar, and a liqueur-glassful of curaçoa; stir over the fire until the sauce thickens, and then pour it over the pudding KOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER 8 ASSISTANT. 31 CHAPTER II. GARNISHES FOR ENTRÉES OR OTHER MADE DISHES. No. 101.—MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES. Scrape two or more carrots clean and smooth, and peel a like number of sound turnips perfectly smooth; and then with French vegetable scoops (easily obtained at Adams' warehouse, Haymarket,) proceed to shape the carrots and turnips into the form of olives, filberts, peas, &c., and having boiled these in a little broth, or water with a bit of butter, sugar, and salt, when done, drain them dry and place them in a small sautapan with a like quantity of green peas, asparagus peas, nibs of cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, and French beans cut in the shape of diamonds : all these vegetables must have been previously cooked, and well drained—free from any moisture. Next, add two tablespoonfuls of good thick white sauce, a little pepper and salt, and a tea- spoonful of sugar; toss the macédoine lightly together over the fire, and serve as hereafter indicated. No. 102.—JARDINIERE. This is prepared with vegetables as in the foregoing recipe, excepting that instead of white sauce a piece of light-coloured glaze should be substituted. No. 103.--REFORM CHIPS. These are composed of the following ingredients, viz.: boiled red part of carrots, black truffles, lean part of boiled ham or bacon, hard-boiled whites of eggs, and 32 TAE COOK'S GUIDE, AND the outer part only of Indian mountain green gherkins. These must be very neatly shred into strippets, measur- ing about half an inch in length by the twelfth of an inch square or thick. These chips should be made hot in a basin in the screen, tossed lightly to mix them, and piled up in the centre of cutlets à la Réforme. No. 104.—GLAZED ONIONS. Peel any given number of onions of the most con- venient size for the required purpose, and having placed these in a proper-sized sautapan or stewpan, add a bit of butter, four lumps of sugar, a little salt, and just as much good stock as will cover the surface of the onions. Next, set the stewpan containing the onions over a moderate fire to boil very gently until they are done; and then, after running down their stock to a glaze, roll the onions gently in this, and serve as di- rected. : No. 105.—GLAZED CARROTS. First cleanse, and then cut or scoop these into any shape or size or form, according to taste or fancy; and having cooked them in the manner directed for glazed onions, proceed to finish them in the same way. No. 106.- CUCUMBER GARNISH. First, peel or cut up one or more cucumbers into pieces about an inch in length, and according to the size of the cucumber ; divide these by splitting them down- wards into as many pieces as will leave each the size of a florin; remove the seeds, and then put them into a small stewpan with a pat of butter, a dessert-spoonful of sugar, a wineglassful of vinegar, nutmeg, pepper, and salt; put the lid on, and set them to simmer very gently over a very slow fire until they are done through. Next, when finishing them for use, boil them down until all the moisture becoines absorbed by the cucumbers, pour away the butter that remains, add a little thick white sauce, toss lightly together, and serve with cutlets, &o HOUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 33 No. 107.—GREEN PEAS FOR GARNISH. Boil with due care a pint of young green peas, and saving drained them free from all moisture, add a spoonful of white sauce, a pat of butter, a little pepper and salt, and a pinch of sugar ; toss lightly over the fire, and use them to garnish cutlets, &c. No. 108.—ASPARAGUS, PEAS, &c. These, as well as French beans, haricot beans, very small new potatoes, broccolli, cauliflowers, or Brussels sprouts, are prepared in the same manner as indicated for green peas, and used for the same purposes. No. 109—111.—PURÉE OF GREEN PEAS FOR GARNISH. Boil a pint of green peas with some mint and a few spring onions; and when they are done, drain off the water; bruise them in a mortar, rub them through a hair sieve, and having placed this pulp in a small stewpan, with a pat of butter, a bit of glaze, a little pepper and salt, and a pinch of sugar; stir altogether over the fire until quite hot, and pile up the puree in the centre of cutlets, &c. No. 112.—PUREE OF SPINACH. Wash clean and boil half a peck of spinach, and when well drained, pound this in a mortar, rub it through a wire sieve, and having placed the pulp in a small stew- pan, finish it in the same manner as indicated for purée of peas. No. 113.—PUREE OF SPRUE ASPARAGUS. Break off all the tender part of a bundle of green sprue asparagus, and, having washed it clean, put it on to boil in water with a handful of spring onions, and a double handful of parsley, with a little salt; and as suoon as it is done, drain off the water ; bruise it in a mortar, rub the whole through a hair sieve; and, having placed 54 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND the pulp in a small stewpan, add a pat of butter, a spoon- ful of flour, a little pepper and salt, a bit of glaze, and a little sugar ; make it hot by stirring the purée over the fire for five minutes, and serve it with cutlets, &c. No. 114.—PUREE OF POTATOES. Bake, steam, or boil six potatoes; and when done, rub them through a wire sieve, and place the result in a stewpan with a pat of butter, half a gill of cream, a bit of glaze, a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt; stir over the fire until quite hot, and serve with cutlets, &c. No. 115.—PUREE OF CHESTNUTS. First remove the outer skin from fifty large chestnuts, and then after having scalded them, scrape off all the inner brown skin; having done this, place the chest- nuts in a small stewpan with a pint of milk, and boil them gently over the fire ; and when done soft, drain away the milk, and rub them, while hot, through a wire sieve :- having placed this pulp in a sniall stew. pan, add a pat of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, a bit of glaze, half a gill of cream, pepper and salt; stir the purée of chestnuts over the fire until quite hot, and serve with cutlets, &c. No. 116. PUREE OF CARROTS. Scrape six carrots clean, and then shave off all the red part, which having parboiled for a few minutes, drain dry and put into a small stewpan with a pat of butter, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, one small onion, and a gill of stock; allow this to simmer gently on the fire until the carrots become quite soft to the touch, and the liquor is absorbed by boiling down; pound this in a mortar, rub it through a sieve, remove it into a small stewpan, season with a bit of glaze, a pat of butter, and a teaspoonful of sugar; make the purée hot, and pile it in the centre of cutlets, &c., and serve. FOTSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. No. 117.- PUREE OF ARTICHOKES. Boil four fresh artichokes in plenty of water and a little salt, and when thoroughly done, which is ascer- tained by the leaves coming out readily when slightly pulled, they must then be drained and cooled; and after having removed all the soft pulpy part by scraping it oil with a spoon from the hard leaves, and removing also the floss adhering to the artichoke, place the pulp in a small stewpan with a pat of butter, a teaspoonful of flour, ditto of sugar, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and a little milk, or a gill of cream, and a bit of glaze ; stir this over the fire for ten minutes, and serve with cutlets, frican- deaux, sweetbreads, &c. No. 118.—PUREE OF TURNIPS. Peel, slice up, and then boil six sound turnips; and having drained them free from water, rub them through a very clean wire sieve, and place the pulp in a small stewpan with a little flour, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, a pat of butter, a bit of light-coloured glaze, and a gill of cream; stir over the fire for ten minutes, and serve with any dish or entrée made of mutton. No. 119.--PUREE OF CELERY. This is prepared nearly in the same manner as celery sauce, No. 91, the only difference being that, for cutlets, or any other entrée, less flour and liquid, and more celery must be used ; also that the purée must be thicker, in order the better to pile it up in the centre of an entrée. No. 119a. —PUREE OP SORREL. Put a peck of sorrel into a stewpan with a pint of water, and stir it over the fire with a wooden spoon until dissolved, and then pour it into a hair sieve, and set it to drain off all the water. Next, fry four sliced D. 36 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND onions in two ounces of butter until lightly browned, add two ounces of flour, one ounce of sugar, nutmeg, pepper, and salt; moisten with a pint of good gravy; stir the purée over the fire for full twenty minutes, and then rub it through a hair sieve. No. 120.—PUREE OF POULTRY. Take the remains of roast or boiled poultry from a previous day's dinner, and having removed all the meat from skin and bones, put these into a small stewpan with a shalot, a bit of celery, a small sprig of thyme, and a gill of stock or water; and while this is gently boiling over the fire, chop fine, and pound the meat from the poultry, in a mortar with a bit of butter, and a spoon- ful of stock from the bones; and when thoroughly re- duced to a pulp, rub this through a hair sieve; put it in a stewpan with the stock from the bones, which must be previously boiled down to less than half a gill; to this add a gill of cream, a very little nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and a small spoonful of flour; stir over the fire until quite hot, and serve. Note.—This, as well as all other purées made from any kinds of meats, may be used for garnishing patties, crôustades, borders of rice or potatoes, and may be also neatly dished up with potato croquettes. Poached eggs and strippets of fried bacon are also admissible as a garnish, and form a very pretty, economical, and deli- cate entrée. If you have any good white sauce at hand, use this in preference to the flour. No. 121.—PUREE OF GAME. Proceed as directed for the preparation of purée of fowl, No. 120. No. 122.—PATTY MEATS. For this purpose use any kinds of remains of poultry or game, cut into small neat mince, to which add either a small proportion of cooked lean of ham or tongue ; HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 37 moisten with a little white sauce, season lightly, and with this mince fill all kinds of patties. Note.—The remains of turbot, brill, salmon, soles, &c., or any kind of shell-fish, serve for this purpose as a rariety. No. 123.—CHIPOLATA RAGOUT. Place the following ingredients, ready cooked, in a stewpan : viz., -small round sausages, teaspoon-shaped quenelles, bits of bacon, the size and shape of a small walnut, button mushrooms, truffles, the red part of a carrot scooped in round shapes, and roasted and peeled chestnuts; all these in equal proportions and in such quantities as may be required for the garnish of a large or small dish; truffles, being always an expensive article, may be omitted without much deterioration. Then add some brown sauce and a glass of madeira. Note.—This ragout is used for a variety of purposes : viz.—for garnishing roast or boiled poultry, or game; also for garnishing cutlets and other dishes. No. 124.—FINANCIERE RAGOUT. Place in a stewpan the following articles ready cooked: viz.,—a few cockscombs, button mushrooms, truffles, quenelles, and scollops of sweetbreads; to these add half a pint of good brown sauce, flavoured, if possible, with game, a glass of sherry or madeira, and a small pinch of cayenne; boil together for three mi- nutes, and serve for garnishes of vol-au-vents, patties (cut smaller), and a great number of dishes for which this ragout is specially adapted, as will be herein shown. No. 125.—TOULOUSE RAGOUT. This is prepared with the same ingredients as named for Financière, No. 124, using Allemande, No. 17, or Bechamel, No. 16, instead of brown sauce. This ragout is also adapted for similar purposes to those indicated in the use of Financière. THE COOK'S QUIDE, AND No. 126.- MILANESE RAGOUT. Cut into inch lengths by a quarter of an inch square the following ingredients, ready cooked : viz., macaroni, ham or tongue, truffles, mushrooms, and chicken or game; prepare these in equal proportions and in such quantity as required, and put them into a small stew- pan with a little good white sauce, about an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, a very little nutmeg, and pepper; toss the ragout lightly over the fire until quite hot, and serve for similar purposes as those indicated for Financière, &c. No. 127.—MAITRE-D'HOTEL BUTTER. Put the following ingredients into a small basin : viz., four ounces of fresh butter, some finely-chopped parsley, and a small proportion of green onions; season with pepper and salt, and the juice of a lemon ; mix well to- gether with a spoon, and keep it in a cool place until required for use. No. 128.—ANCHOVY BUTTER. Cleanse well six anchovies, and pound them in a mor- tar with two ounces of butter, a pinch of cayenne, a little nutmeg, and a dessert-spoonful of anchovy; rub this through a hair sieve, and use as directed. , No. 129.—LOBSTER BUTTER. Take the spawn or coral of the lobster, or both ; and, having first pounded them in a mortar with a piece of fresh butter, rub the whole through a hair sieve, and 118e it for flavouring and colouring sauces, &c. No. 130. — EPICUREAN BUTTER. This is composed of the following ingredients : viz., a large handful of tarragon, chervil, parsley, burnet, and chives, in equal proportions, parboiled, and squeezed dry HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 39 in a cloth; six anchovies cleansed, a tablespoonful of capers, ditto of Oude sauce, and four ounces of fresh butter; pound all these thoroughly, and having rubbed the composition through a hair sieve, keep it to be used as directed hereafter. No. 131.—DEVIL MIXTURE. When about to devil legs of poultry or game, beef, or other bones, or any kind of wild fowl, or any kind of fish, or fish bones, first prepare the following mixture, with which, after having scored the meats, &c., with deep incisions, let them be well covered, and grilled brown; mix well upon a plate the following articles : viz., a spoonful of mustard (either French or English), the same quantity of Oude sauce, or chutnee, and of anchovy, twice as much salad-oil, and a little cayenne pepper. Note.—All these seasoned butters are well adapted for being served under meat steaks, or fish steaks ; and also for seasoning plain butter sauce for boiled or fried fish, &c. THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND CHAPTER III. SOUPS IN GENERAL. No. 132.—JULIENNE SOUP. Take three red carrots, as many turnips, and the white parts of the same number of heads of celery, leeks, and onions ; cut all these into thin shreds about an inch long, and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a little salt and sugar; and stirring lightly over a slow fire, fry them of a very light colour; then pour them into a convenient-sized soup-pot, add sufficient clear stock for the quantity of soup required; set it to boil, and then remove it to the side of the fire to throw up the scum and grease ; remove these as they rise to the surface; add two cabbage-lettuces, a few leaves of sorrel, some tarragon and chervil, all shred fine, and four lumps of sugar; and, after allowing the juliènne to simmer until the vegetables are done, ascertain that the seasoning is palatable, and serve. No. 133.—JARDINIERE SOUP. Scrape, peel, and clean three carrots, and a like number of turnips; and with small-sized vegetable scoops, proceed to scoop them out into the form of peas, olives, &c., according to fancy or convenience. When this is done, place the said vegetables, with equal quantities of very small button onions, celery, cut the size of the carrots, &c., some pulled leaves of lettuce, tarragon, and chervil, in a soup-pot; fill up with clear HOUSEK BEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 11 stock; add a bit of sugar: boil gently until the vege- tables are done; taste to ascertain that the flavour is good, and serve hot. No. 134.—BRUNOISE SOUP. Clean, and cut up into very minute square pieces the following vegetables : viz., three carrots, and a like number of turnips, heads of celery, leeks, and onions ; fry these with a bit of butter and a little sugar, and proceed in every particular in the same manner as in- dicated for julienne soup; and when ready to send to table, add a few boiled Brussels sprouts when in sea- son, and some very small round crusts from a French roll. No. 134a.—SPRING SOUP. This soup is prepared very much in the same manner as jardiniere soup, excepting that, as indeed its very name sufficiently implies, it must be made with early summer vegetables only; and when about to be sent to table, some ready-boiled asparagus-peas, and green peas should be added. No. 135.—CHIFFONADE SOUP. With a round tin cutter about the size of a florin, stamp out about four good-sized lettuces; and having put these into a soup-pot with the heads of a few spring-onions, a few leaves of tarragon, and some chervil, four leaves of green mint, and a pint of young green peas, fill up with clear consomme, season with a small pinch of mignionette pepper, and a good lump of sugar; boil gently until the peas, &c., are done, and serve. No. 136.—CELERY AND BUTTON-ONIONS SOUP. Having cleansed three heads of celery, cut them into inch lengths; boil them in water for five minutes, and when drained, place them in a soup-pot with half a pint 42 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND of button onions, a little tarragon and chervil, a piece of sugar, and a pinch of mignionette pepper; fill up with game stock; boil gently until the celery is thoroughly done, and serve. No. 137.—D'ESCLIGNAC SOUP. Break six fresh whole eggs into a basin, add thereto half a pint of cream, a gill of strong stock (game or poultry if possible), a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt; beat this up with a fork until well mixed, and strain the mixture into a plain mould which has been previously lightly buttered round the sides and bottom to prevent this savory custard from sticking to the mould, while it is being gently steamed over a slow fire, in a covered stewpan containing a little hot water; and, when the custard has become firm to the touch—which will take about half an hour, allow it to become cold; and after having turned it out upon a plate, cut it into neat square pieces the size of a filbert; place these gently in a soup tureen; add some clear bright game or chicken con- sommé, and serve. A few asparagus-peas, green peas, or French beans cut small, may be added when in season. No. 138.—CONSOMME WITH QUENELLES. This is prepared in the same manner as the foregoing, by substituting small teaspoon quenelles for the pieces of custard. No. 139.—CARLTON-HOUSE SOUP. To some bright consommé add a dozen small tea- spoon quenelles, half the usual quantity of custard for D'Esclignac, No. 137, and some very small rolls the size of cobnuts, made of Spanish puff-paste, and previously baked in an oven. When about to serve this kind of soup, the quenelles and pieces of custard must be placed in the soup-tureen, the consommé poured gently over them, and the rolls above alluded to, placed the last thing on the surface of the soup. HOUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTI.ER'S ASSISTANT. . 43 No. 140.—MOCK-TURTLE SOUP, CLEAR. First bone, and then parboil the calf's head in plenty of water, and a small handful of salt, for about twenty mi- nutes; and when the calf's head has become sufficiently cold, by steeping in cold water, proceed to trim away the rough parts, particularly the cuticle about the mouth. Having done this, next place the head in a large stewpan, with a good-sized knuckle of veal, about a pound of raw ham, two carrots, two onions—one stuck with twelve cloves—a head of celery,a bunch of basil, marjoram, lemon thyme, a sprig of common thyme, some parsley, winter savory, and spring onions, and two blades of mace; add a quart of good stock, set the stewpan over the fire to boil sharply until the liquid is reduced to a glaze—due care being given to this part of the process to prevent the soup becoming burnt. Next, fill up the stewpan either with stock or water; and when it boils again, skim it carefully, keeping it gently boiling by the side of the fire, until the calf's head is nearly done. The head must now be carefully lifted out of the stock with a skimmer, and after being washed in a large pan of cold water, and well drained upon a sieve or cloth, placed in press, between two large dishes, in the larder to become cold. The calf's-head stock must now be strained through a sieve into a clean stewpan; the grease entirely removed from its surface, and then clarified by mixing into it three whites of eggs previously whipped with a pint of cold water; set the stock on the fire, and whisk it until it boils, and then lift it to the side of the stove, there to boil gently until it has become bright: this will take about twenty minutes. The stock must now be strained through a napkin into a soup-pot; the calf's head cut into pieces an inch square, and being placed in the mock-turtle stock, add half a pint of madeira, a pinch of cayenne, and allow the soup to boil gently by the side of the fire until the pieces of meat are thoroughly done. When about to send to table, add some very small forcemeat quenelles, and a little lemon-juice. THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND Note.—Forcemeat, for the quenelles liere alluded to, is prepared as follows: viz.,—to half a pound of lean veal, pounded and rubbed through a sieve, add two ounces of panada, No. 184, six hard yolks of eggs, an ounce of butter, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and three or four yolks of raw eggs; pound all this in a mortar, rub it through a wire sieve, and then, having rolled this pre- paration out (with some flour shaken over the table) into the form of toy-marbles, throw these into some water kept ready boiling in a stewpan for the purpose; they will be done in six minutes; after being drained, put them into the mock-turtle. No. 140a.—MOCK-TURTLE. Prepare this in the first instance in the same manner as directed in the foregoing recipe for mock-turtle clear; and, when the head is done, and placed in press, and the stock has been passed or strained into another stewpan, add about a pound and a quarter of thickening, No. 9, and stir it over the fire until the sauce boils; re- move it to the side to remain gently simmering, in order to enable it to throw up all grease, &c., which remove, and then add half a pint of madeira or sherry, the juice of half a lemon, and a pinch of cayenne ; put the pieces of calf's head (cut into small squares) into a soup-pot, strain the sauce to these, and having allowed the soup to boil gently until the meat is done, skim it, and then add the small quenelles, as in the former case. No. 141.—GIBLET SOUP, CLEAR. Take two sets of geese giblets thoroughly cleansed, and parboiled in hot water over the fire for ten minutes; drain, and immerse them in cold water for five minutes; and then place them in a stewpan with a bunch of basil, marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, and pars- ley, tied neatly together; carrot, celery, two onions stuck with a dozen cloves, two blades of mace, and six shalots ; fill up with about a gallon of good stock, or water (in the latter case, add four pounds of knuckle of HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER S ASSISTANT. 45 veal): set the giblets thus far prepared to boil over the fire ; skim them well, and allow them to boil very gently by the side of the fire, until they are nearly done; then strain off the stock, wash the giblets in cold water, drain and cut them up,—the wings and feet into inch and half lengths, and the livers, &c., into smaller pieces. Next, after the giblet stock has been strained into another stewpan, and freed from all grease, proceed to clarify it as directed for clear mock-turtle ; and finish this soup in the same manner. No. 141a.—GIBLET SOUP, THICK. Prepare this as in the foregoing number, and then finish it as directed for thick mock-turtle, No. 140 a. No. 142.—OX-TAIL SOUP. Cut up an ox-tail through the joints; boil the pieces for ten minutes in water—drain and cool them; and then with a meat saw divide the larger pieces into four -by holding the saw between the chest and the edge of the table firmly, so as that, by pressing the pieces of tail upon the edge of the saw, and then drawing them sharply to and fro, they will be easily divided. Next, place the pieces of ox-tail in a stew pan with carrot, onion, celery, garnished bunch of parsley and thyme, six cloves, a blade of mace and a dozen peppercorns ; fill up with a gallon of good stock, or water (if the latter, three pounds of gravy beef must be added); set them on the fire to boil, skim well, and then set the stewpan to boil gently by the side of the fire until the pieces of tail are done: this will take about two hours. As soon as done, the stock must be strained from the tails, cleared from all grease, and after being clarified (see No. 6), must be strained into a soup-pot containing scooped carrots and turnips, button onions, and celery cut in the same manner as for jardinière soup, No. 133, and being finished in exactly the same way, pour it into the soup-tureen already containing the pieces of ox-tail, previously made hot. THE COOK S GUIDE. AND No. 143.—OX-CHEEK SOUP. Thoroughly wash the cheek in tepid water, and then parboil, or scald it over the fire with a handful of salt in the water; and having again washed the cheek, place it in a stewpan with carrots, turnips, celery, four onions -one stuck with twelve cloves—a blade of mace, twenty peppercorns, and a garnished bunch of parsley, bay-leaf, and thyme ; fill up with stock or water; boil and skim well, and then set it to boil gently by the side of the fire for about four hours, when the cheek will be done sufficiently tender to enable you easily to remove the meat from the jaw-bone; and, having set the pieces in press between two dishes to become cold, proceed to clarify the stock as directed in No. 6, and having, with the clarified stock from the ox-cheek prepared a jardi- nière soup, No. 133, cut the cheek into inch-square pieces; put these in with the soup; boil together for a few minutes, and serve. No. 14.—MULLIGATAWNEY SOUP. Peel and slice up a dozen onions, and put these into a stewpan with four ounces of butter, and fry them with- out colour over a slow fire; when this is done, add six unpeeled apples cut in slices; and as soon as these have been dissolved over the fire, mix in six ounces of flour, two tablespoonfuls of curry paste (Crosse and Black- well's is best), and a good spoonful of curry powder; moisten with three quarts of good stock; stir over the fire until the soup boils, and then set it to continue gently simmering by the side, to allow all grease, &c., to rise to the surface; remove this, rub the soup smoothly through a sieve or tammy; and having poured it into a soup-pot, add poultry, game, veal, or pork, or any kind of fish, previously cooked, and cut into neat square pieces; boil together for a few minutes, and serve with plain boiled rice in a separate dish. Note.- When pieces of ox-tail, ox-cheek, tendons of HOUSEKEEPEK'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 47 veal, calf's brains, tails or feet, rabbit, &c., garnish the soup, it is then designated ox-tail, &c., à l'Indiènne, or ox-tail soup in the Indian fashion. No. 145-DUCHESS SOUP. Mix two ounces of Bermuda arrowroot with half a tumbler of cold water, and pour this into a stewpan containing a quart of good consommé, No 4; stir this over the fire until it has boiled gently for about ten minutes, and then pour it into a soup-tureen containing small neatly-cut inch lengths of roasted or boiled poultry or game. No. 146.—CALF'S TAILS SOUP. Cut up two calves' tails into pieces about an inch and a half long; place these in a stewpan with a carrot, an onion stuck with four cloves, celery, a bunch of parsley, naif a bay-leaf and thyme, a small bit of mace and four shalots ; fill up with two quarts of stock; and boil very gently by the side of the fire for about an hour and a half, when the pieces of tail will be done. They must then be strained from the stock, washed in cold water, drained, and set aside ; while their stock must be placed in a stewpan with six ounces of white thickening, No. 10, stirred over the fire, until it boils, allowed to throw up slowly by the side of the stove, to remove all grease, &c.; skimmed, and strained into a soup-pot containing the pieces of calf's tails and a few small forcemeat que- nelles. Five minutes before dinner-time, having first made the soup hot, stir gently into it a leason of four yolks of eggs, a gill of cream, a glass of sherry, a very little nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese ; and when the soup has been stirred over the fire for three minutes longer, serve. No. 147.—CALF'S FEET SOUP. This soup is made in exactly the same manner as the preceding, the only difference being that calf's fizet must be substituted for calf's tails. 48 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 148.—GROUSE SOUP. Roast off two grouse or black game, and while they are roasting, cut up small two carrots, a head of celery, two onions, two ounces of raw ham, a bay-leaf, thyme, and parsley, six cloves, a blade of mace, and four shalots; and fry these ingredients with a piece of butter, of a brown colour, in a stewpan. By this time, the grouse will be done; cut out the fillets and put them away in a plate; pound the carcases thoroughly in a mortar, and add them to the fried vegetables, and half a pound of brown thickening, No. 9; moisten with two quarts of good stock; stir over the fire until the soup boils; allow it to clear off the grease by the side of the fire for twenty minutes; remove this, and then rub the soup through a tammy in the usual way on a dish. The soup being passed and poured into a soup-pot, add the fillets of the grouse cut into thick shreds, a glass of wine and a small pinch of cayenne; make it hot by stirring it over the fire ; skim it, and serve. Note.—Pheasants, partridges, larks, woodcocks, snipes, rabbits, &c., prepared in the manner indicated for making grouse soup, will prove equally delicious. No. 149.—HARE SOUP. For the preparation of this most excellent soup, proceed as directed in No. 148, using for the purpose hare instead of grouse; and, indeed, where excessive economy is required, water may be used instead of stock, on account of the greater quantity of meat contained in a hare. Red wine is best adapted for finishing hare soup. No. 150.—PEA SOUP. Soak a quart of split-peas over night, and next day wash them in two waters, and put them in a stewpan with carrot, celery, onions, half a pound of raw ham or lean bacon; moisten with three quarts of broth, boica HOUSEKEEPER 8 AND BUTLER S ASSISTANT. 49 skim, and set the peas by the side of the fire, to con- tinue gently simmering for about two hours and a half, when the peas will probably be dissolved to a pulp ; rub this through a tammy; pour the purée into a soup- pot; stir it over the fire until it boils; remove it to the side to throw up the skum; remove this as it rises; season with a little pepper, and salt if necessary ; stir in a pat of butter, and send to table with fried crusts, or toasted bread cut into small squares, and bruised dry mint separately. Note.—Peas soup may be prepared more economically by putting a piece of salt-pork about two pounds weight in with the peas and vegetables, and following in all other respects the process indicated above; the pork, when done, may be served as part of the dinner. No. 151.—GREEN PEA SOUP. Prepare a quart of large peas, a good handful of parsley, the same of green onions, and two handfuls of green mint; boil these in three pints of water with a hit of butter and a little salt; and as soon as the peas are done, drain their liquor into a pan and reserve it; pound the peas in a mortar ; mix them with the liquor the peas were boiled in ; rub through the tammy or sieve, and pour the purée into a soup-pot. When about to send to table, make the soup hot by stirring it over the fire without allowing it to boil; add a pat of butter, a little pepper and salt, a dessert-spoonful of sugar, and about two ounces of glaze ; serve hot, with fried crusts on a plate, separately. Note.- The fried crusts are prepared as follows: viz., -take a piece of the crumb of a stale half-quartern loaf, say a fourth part, and cut this into slices less than a quarter of an inch thick, and again cut up these slices into very even small squares; these must be fried in a ste wpan, with about an ounce of butter, over the fire- care being taken to toss them lightly and almost con- tinuously while they are being fried; and when they 50 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND . assume a light golden-brown shade, drain off the butter, and place them upon clean paper to absorb the grease. No. 152.—ASPARAGUS SOUP. Break off all that is tender from a bundle of green sprue asparagus, and put this in a large pan with half a peck of fresh-gathered spinach, a large handful of parsley, the same of spring onions, and having washed these in two waters, and drained them in a sieve, pro- ceed to boil them in nearly two quarts of water, with a bit of butter and a little salt; and, as soon as the asparagus are done, strain off the liquor, to be kept in reserve; bruise the asparagus, &c., in a mortar; add this to the liquor, and having rubbed the purée through a tammy, pour it into a soup-pot; and when about to send it to table, add three ounces of glaze, two ounces of flour kneaded with the same quantity of butter, a little pepper and salt, and a spoonful of white sugar ; stir the soup over the fire until hot, without allowing it to boil; and serve with fried crusts, No. 151, sepa- rately. No. 153.—CARROT SOUP A LA CRESSY. Shave off the red part of twelve large carrots, and put it in a stewpan with four onions, two heads of celery, four ounces of raw ham, and two ounces of butter, a few peppercorns, and a quart of water; put the lid on close, and set this to simmer gently for two hours over a slow fire. At the end of this time the carrots will be done quite soft; the stock must be drained from them, and kept in reserve, while the carrots, &c., are first bruised in a mortar, and being added to their liquor and a quart of stock, must be rubbed through a tammy, poured into a soup-pot, stirred over the fire to boil, and placed by the side to clear itself of all grease, &c., which must be removed with a spoon as it rises to the surface; and when the purée has gently boiled in this way for a quarter of an hour, add a bit of glaze, a dessert-spoonfu) HOUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 51 of sugar, and a little pepper and salt, if necessary, and serve with fried crusts, in a plate. Note.--In nearly all cases where glaze is recommended to be added when finishing a soup or a sauce, its use may be dispensed with when extreme economy is the order of the day; yet it must be admitted, that this omission will not tend to improve the soup, &c., unless indeed the stock is very good. No. 154.--POTATO SOUP. Peel and slice up a dozen good potatoes and six onions, and put them into a stewpan with four ounces of butter, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt; add two quarts of white stock, or water, and allow the whole to boil gently over a slow fire, until the potatoes are done; then rub them through a tammy, pour the soup into a soup-pot, stir it over the fire until quite hot; add half a pint of cream, and serve with fried crusts, separately. No. 155.—MUTTON BROTH. Take three pounds of the scrag end of a neck of mutton, and chop it into eight pieces; put these in a stewpan with three turnips, two leeks, one head of celery, a handful of parsley and a sprig of thyme tied neatly together ; fill up with a gallon of water; boil, skim well, set the stewpan by the side of the fire to toil gently for three hours ;—and then having strained it through a sieve, pour it into a soup-pot containing four ounces of parboiled pearl barley, and three sound turnips cut into very small dice; set the broth to boil again very gently by the side of the fire for about an hour; remove all the grease; add some of the best pieces of the mutton, kept in reserve for that purpose ; ascertain that the seasoning is delicate, and serve. No. 156.—SCOTCH BROTH. Prepare some mutton broth as indicated in No. 155, but let it be made with rather more meat, and while the broth is in course of preparation, cut into very small E 2 52 TIE COOK'S GUIDE, AND square dice-like forms the following vegetables : viz.,- two carrots, four turnips, four leeks, two heads of celery, and two onions; and having placed these in a soup-pot with either six ounces of parboiled Scotch barley or rice, add thereto the strained mutton broth; boil the whole together gently by the side of the fire for about an hour; skim off the grease, &c.; ascertain that the sea- soning is palatable, and serve. No. 157.-HODGE-PODGE. Prepare the mutton broth as directed in the preced- ing recipes, and in addition to its contents, add a pint of green peas. Allow the soup to boil gently until the ingredients are thoroughly done, then mix in with them a pint of purée of spinach and parsley; taste to ascertain that the seasoning be correct, and serve quite hot. No. 158.—KNUCKLE OF VEAL AND RICE SOUP. Take a good-sized knuckle of veal, cut it into six pieces, sawing the bones through neatly. Place the pieces in a small stock-pot; fill up with common broth or water; boil and skim well; add carrot, onion, turnip, and celery, a few peppercorns, and salt; and having allowed this to boil very gently for about three hours, remove the best pieces of the veal upon a plate to be kept in reserve; strain the broth into a smaller soup- pot, already containing three-quarters of a pound of par- boiled rice; boil together for half an hour; add the pieces of veal kept in reserve; skim off all grease from the soup, and serve hot. No. 159.—COCKY-LEEKY. Truss and boil a fowl in three pints of light-coloured stock, and when done, cut the fowl up into neat pieces and let these be kept in reserve between two plates' to prevent them from becoming dried up. Next add the broth which the fowl has been boiled in, to a dozen HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 59 white leeks cut into inch lengths, and half a pound of parboiled rice; season with a little mignionette pepper, and salt if necessary, boil together for half an hour and serve hot, with the pieces of fowl in the cocky-leeky. Note.—This soup is an excellent stomachic, and is capable of curing a severe cold. No. 160.—ONION PORRIDGE. Take a Spanish onion as big as you can procure, peel and split it into quarters, and put these into a small stewpan with a pint of water, a pat of butter, and a litte salt; boil gently for half an hour; add a pinch of pepper, and eat the porridge just before retiring to bed. This is also an excellent remedy for colds, and was imparted to me by a jolly, warm-hearted Yorkshire farmer. No. 161.—BONNE FEMME SOUP. Shred fine the following ingredients : viz.,—a cu- cumber, four lettuces, one onion, and a handful of chervil; place these in a small soup-pot with two pats of butter, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt; simmer over a slow fire for about ten minutes, then add a good spoon- ful of flour; moisten with three pints of good white veal stock, stir over the fire until the soup boils, and then set it by the side to boil very gently for a quarter of an hour, When about to send the soup to table, make it hot, and stir into it a leason of six yolks of eggs, half a pint of cream, and a dessert-spoonful of sugar. No. 162.—PALESTINE SOUP. First peel and then slice up a peck of Jerusalem arti- chokes, four onions, one head of celery; and having placed these in a stewpan with two ounces of butter and three pints of white veal stock, season with nutmeg, pepper, salt, and one ounce of sugar ; boil gently for an hour, rub through the tammy or a sieve; remove the 64 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND purée into a stewpan; stir it over the fire to make it hot; add a pint of cream, and serve with fried crusts, separately. No. 163.—WHITE CELERY SOUP. Slice up fine six heads of celery, four onions, and four ounces of raw ham; put these into a stewpan with four ounces of butter and a pint of white stock, or water; simmer very gently over a slow fire until the celery becomes quite soft; then add half a pound of flour, mix together, moisten with a quart of good veal stock, stir the soup over the fire for twenty minutes; rub the purée through a tammy into a dish, and having poured it into a soup-pot, make it hot; add half a pint of cream, and serve with fried crusts, separately. No. 164.—TURNIP SOUP. The process is the same as for making celery soup, No. 163, merely substituting turnips for celery. No.—165. MACARONI SOUP. . Cut some boiled macaroni into inch lengths, and put these into a soup-pot containing one or more quarts of good clear consommé; boil gently for five minutes, and serve hot, with two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese separately on a plate. No. 166.—VERMICELLI SOUP. Set a quart, or more, of good clear stock to boil, and then stir in, as it continues to boil gently by the side of the stove, about six ounces of vermicelli, lightly broken in order to prevent too long filaments hanging over the sides of the spoon as it is carried to the mouth, which is as unpleasant to the consumer as it is doubtless to the beholder. When the soup has boiled for ten minutes, serve hot, with grated Parmesan cheese separately. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. : 56 No. 167.—ITALIAN PASTE SOUP. Prepare this as in the foregoing recipe, using for this purpose any kind of Italian pastes, which are to be pro- cured in greatest perfection at Crosse and Blackwell's warehouse, Soho-square. Note.- When it happens that any portion of either of the foregoing soups, made of any kind of Italian pastes, —such as macaroni, vermicelli, lasagnes, &c., are left from a previous day's dinner, such may be easily con- verted into a white soup, by merely adding a leason of four yolks of eggs and half a pint of cream, and a spoonful of grated cheese. No. 167a.—RAVIOLIS SOUP. First, prepare the raviolis in manner following: viz., -mix half a pound of flour with two raw eggs, a little salt, and a small pat of butter, and this done, roll out the paste as thin as a sheet of paper; and while the paste is being prepared, get ready the following mix- ture :two ounces of roasted poultry or game, one ounce of ham, four cleaned anchovies, one ounce of cooked spinach, one shalot, three hard yolks of eggs, two raw yolks, four ounces of hard curd ; season highly with nutmeg and pepper, and one ounce of grated Par- mesan cheese, -no salt. Next, with a paste-brush slightly moisten the rolled-out paste before you, and having placed small round portions of the raviolis mixture at an inch and a half distance from each other, lift the edge of the paste left sufficiently wide for that purpose, upon these; fasten each round the edge by pressing tightly with the edge of the thumb, and stamp the raviolis out with a small fluted tin cutter, and place them on a floured baking-sheet to dry. Having used up the paste and mixture in this manner, and when the raviolis have become dry over their surface, throw or drop them into boiling water, in order to parboil them for about six minutes; and having drained them upon a 66 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND hair sieve, add to them some good strong game stock; season with a glass of madeira and a pinch of mignio. nette pepper, and serve hot: this is one of the very best soups it is possible to send to a good table. No. 168.—LORD MARCUS HILL'S SOUP. Grease the bottom of a four-quart sized stewpan with an ounce of butter, and place therein five pounds of knuckle of veal and half a pound of raw ham ; to these add two carrots, two onions, and one head of celery ; moisten with a quart of broth, and set the whole to boil down sharply until reduced to a glaze; then fill up with light broth or water; boil and skim,—and when the stock has boiled for about two hours, strain it off. While this is going on, shred four large lettuces, a handful of spring onions, two cucumbers peeled, and a handful of chervil; and having put these into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, pepper and salt; stir over the fire for ten minutes ; add half a pound of four, mix together, moisten with the stock, boil gently on the corner of the fire for half an hour, remove the scum, add half an ounce of sugar and a pint of boiled green peas, and serve. No. 169.—LOBSTER SOUP. First, cut up very small the following ingredients : viz.,—a carrot, onion, celery, four shalots, bay-leaf, and thyme, and some parsley ; fry these in a stewpan with a piece of butter until they are lightly browned; then add six ounces of flour, mix well; moisten with three pints of good stock (or water if for meagre soup); stir over the fire, and when it boils, set it by the side to simmer gently for half an hour: while this part of the preparations is going on, break up a fresh cooked hen lobster; remove the meat from the tail and claws, and out this into neat square pieces, to be kept in reserve ; all the remainder of the lobster and shell, together with a little spawn, must be well bruised in a mortar, and stirred into the soup as it boils; and five minutes after HOUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 67 lot the whole be rubbed through a tammy, poured into a soup-pot, made hot, and skimmed; seasoned with a glass of sherry, a little Harvey, lemon-juice, anchovy, and cayenne; and poured into the soup-tureen already containing the cut-up lobster, and some small quenelles. No. 170.—CRAB SOUP. Boil half a pound of rice in a quart of white stock, water, or milk, with a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and an ounce of butter; and, while the rice is being very slowly simmered, break up a fresh-boiled crab, separating carefully all the white meat from the claws, &c., which must be kept in reserve; pound all the yellow pith from the body-shell with the boiled rice, and having mixed the whole with a quart of hot stock, rub it through a tammy ; pour it into a soup-pot, add the white meat from the claws, season with a small pinch of cayenne, and a little anchovy, and a pint of cream; stir over the fire until quite hot, without allowing it to boil, and serve. No. 171.—CRAYFISH SOUP. Prepare the sauce for this soup in the same manner as for lobster soup, No. 169. Boil three dozen crayfish with a glass of sherry and a little stock ; and when done, strain their liquor to the sauce; pick the tails from the shells, and keep them in reserve; clear all the pith from the body-shells without breaking them, and keep these also in reserve ; pound the shells, pith and claws, add this to the sauce, and, having rubbed it through the tammy, pour the soup into a small soup-pot. Fill the body-shells with a little forcemeat seasoned with chopped parsley and shalot, and a little anchovy, and hake them on a baking-sheet in the oven for six minutes. All this being ready, make the soup hot by stirring it over the fire; skim it; season with lobster butter, No. 129, a little cayenne, lemon-juice, anchovy, and a glass of sherry, and pour it into the tureen containing the tails and bodies of the crayfish, and serve hot. THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 172.—PRAWN SOUP. This is made in the same manner as crayfish soup, No. 171, using fifty prawns for the purpose instead of crayfish. No. 173.- VICTORIA SOUP. Wash and scald half a pound of Frankfort pearl barley, and put this into a stewpan with three pints of good white veal stock, and simmer it very gently over a slow fire for an hour and a half; by which time the barley will be nearly dissolved; remove a third of it into a small soup-pot; rub the remainder through a tammy or sieve, pour it to the whole barley; add half a pint of cream; season with a little salt; stir it over the fire until hot, and serve. This soup may be prepared also with rice; they are, or at least were, the only soups eaten by the Queen when I had the honour of waiting on Her Majesty. No. 174.—WHITE SOUP A LA REINE. Truss a fowl; put it on the spit, and set it down before the fire to roast; and while the fowl is roasting, wash three-quarters of a pound of rice, and boil it very gently in three pints of white veal stock for about an hour. Remove all the meat from the fowl; chop and pound this in a mortar, with an ounce of butter and a gill of broth; and when it is thoroughly reduced to a smooth pulp, add the rice ; pound all together; take this up into a stewpan, moisten with a quart of broth (made with the bones of the fowl and a pound of veal, with carrot, celery, and onion); rub the purée through a tammy, and when this is done, pour the soup into a small soup-pot; stir it over the fire until hot, season with a little pepper and salt, mix in half a pint of cream, and serve with fried crusts on the surface of the soup. No. 175.—SPRING HERBS SOUP. Take two lettuces, a little sorrel, a handful of purs- lain, dandelion, and chervil; shred all these ; wash them HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 69 clean, aid having placed them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, a little pepper and salt, stew the herbs over a slow fire for ten minutes ; add a tablespoonful of flour, and a pint and a half of light veal stock; stir over the fire to boil gently for a quarter of an hour; and then mix in a leason of four yolks of eggs, half a pint of cream, and a dessert-spoonful of sugar, and serve hot. Note.—This medicinal soup possesses great efficacy in cooling a heated state of the blood. No. 176.—RUSSIAN SOUP, OR TSCHI. First, cut two large onions into small dice, and shred a small cabbage finely, and chop these shreds across to shorten the filaments; fry all this in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, until it assumes a light colour; then mix in two ounces of flour; moisten with three pints of good brown stock; season with nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and having stirred the soup over the fire till it boils, set it by the side to boil gently for about half an hour ; then add a glass of French white wine, some roughly- chopped tarragon and chervil, and pour it into a soup- tureen containing about two ounces of lean ham cut into small shreds, and two dozen small sausages, made as follows: viz., to six ounces of lean beef add four ounces of suet, and having chopped and pounded these together, season with nutmeg, pepper, and salt, chopped parsley, and thyme; add one whole egg; mix well together by pounding; roll out the sausage-meat into the form of small round balls, and fry these in a sautapan with a little butter No. 177.—SPANISH SOUP. Spread a little butter over the bottom of a four-quart- sized stewpan; upon this lay four onions cut into slices, and then four pounds of gravy-beef cut in thick slices, half a pound of raw ham or lean bacon, an old partridge or pheasant; add two carrots, celery, and parsley roots, a bay-leaf, thyme, and a small clove of garlic, tied up 60 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND tightly, six cloves and a bit of mace; moisten with a quart of stock, or water, boil down to a glaze over a brisk fire; fill up with stock, or water; boil, skim well, and when the stock has simmered gently by the side of the fire for two hours, strain it off. After removing all the grease, let it be poured into a soup-pot contain- ing carrots and turnips, scooped in the form of olives, some celery and leeks shred thickly, a pint of garbanças (Spanish peas) previously soaked and boiled, and a des- sert-spoonful of Spanish sweet red pepper; boil gently until the vegetables are done; then add the partridge or pheasant, cut into neat pieces, also the ham, and some small pork sausages which have been boiled in the stock. Note.- This substantial soup, which in Spain is called “ Olla Podrida," forms of itself an excellent dinner. No. 178.—PROVENCAL SOUP, OR BOUILLABAISSE. Divide two Portugal onions into quarters, and having shred these, fry them in a stewpan with two tablespoon- fuls of salad-oil until the onions acquire a light colour; then add a dessert-spoonful of Spanish sweet red pepper, a little salt, and a quart of good stock, or water; boil to- gether for three minutes, and then add some small slices of fillets of any kind of fish most agreeable or con- venient; boil these for a few minutes, and serve the bouillabaisse with the crusts cut from a French roll fried in a little oil or butter. Note. -For economy sake, or to suit the taste of those who prefer eating the fish separately from the soup, slices of any fish of larger size may be cooked in the soup, and served in a dish, with one of the numerous varieties of sauces contained in this work. No. 179.—VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP. Split, peel and remove the seedy core from six vege- table-marrows, place them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, nutineg, pepper and salt, and four lumps of sugar; moisten with a pint of white stock, or water; HOUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 61 boil gently for half an hour, rub the purée through a hair sieve or tammy, pour it into a soup-pot, add a pint of good stock, and half a pint of cream, stir it over the fire until quite hot, and serve with fried crusts. No. 180.—CHESTNUT SOUP. Scald, peel, and scrape fifty large chestnuts; put these, into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, an onion, four lumps of sugar, and a little pepper and salt; and simmer the whole over a slow fire for three-quarters of an hour; then bruise the chestnuts in a mortar; remove the pulp into a stewpan; add a quart of good brown gravy, and having rubbed the purée through a tammy, pour it into a stewpan; make it hot, and serve with fried crusts. No. 181.—GERMAN SOUP. Take one carrot, a turnip, a head of celery, parsnip, an onion, or the white parts of spring onions, and either cut or scoop all these into very small squares or olive shapes; put them into a stewpan with a piece of butter, a spoonful of sugar, and a little pepper and salt, and fry them lightly over a slow fire; then add two lettuces and a little tarragon and chervil shred coarsely; stir these again over the fire for a few minutes, and mix in two ounces of flour; moisten with three pints of good white stock, boil gently for half an hour, incorporate a leason of four yolks, and half a pint of cream, without boiling ; ascertain that the seasoning is correct, and serve. No. 182.—ITALIAN SOUP. Half roast either a fowl, pheasant, duck, partridge, or a rabbit; and put it into a stewpan with four ounces of raw ham, two onions, six ripe red tomatas, a head of celery, a carrot sliced up, four shalots, a bay-leaf and thyme, four cloves, a small bit of mace, and twelve peppercorns; moisten with a pint of stock and a glass of wine; boil down to a glaze; fill up with two quarts of THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND stock, or water; boil gently on the corner of the fire for an hour; skim, and strain the stock into a pan; reserve the fowl, or whatever has been used to make the soup, on a plate ; pound all the vegetables in a mortar; remove this pulp into a stew pan; moisten with the stock; rub it through a tammy; pour the purée into a soup-pot; stir it over the fire until it boils; let it throw up by the side for ten minutes; skim it well, and then stir into the soup a paste made of three anchovies, a few capers, and a pinch of cayenne pounded and rubbed through a sieve; and pour the soup into the tureen already containing the fowl cut into small neat pieces. No. 183.—OYSTER SOUP. Scald, drain, wash, and beard four dozen oysters, re- serving their liquor in a pan. Put four ounces of butter into a stewpan to barely dissolve over the fire; mix in four orinces of flour; moisten with a pint and a half of good white stock or milk; season with nutmeg and a pinch of cayenne, and a teaspoonful of anchovy; add half a pint of cream ; stir over the fire for a quarter of an hour's gentle boiling; and then, having cut the oysters each into halves, pour the hot soup over them in the tureen. Note. — This favourite soup may also be prepared in like manner, and with equal chance of success, by using cockles, muscles, whelks, or collops for the purpose; but it must not be forgotten that great care and clean- liness must be observed in well washing them, in order effectually to remove all sand or grit HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. CHAPTER IV. No. 184.—BREAD PANADA. Steep one pound of the crumb of a new loaf in tepid water, and wring it in a cloth to extract the moisture; place it in a stewpan with an ounce of butter and a little salt, and stir it over the fire with a wooden spoon, until it ceases to adhere to the stewpan, and forms a compact smooth paste; then place the panada between two plates in the cool, to be used as hereinafter directed. No. 185.—QUENELLE FORCEMEAT OF VEAL. Take one pound of lean white veal cut from the leg, or chump end; scrape it with a knife; pound and rub it through a wire sieve on to a plate. Next, place in a mor- tar, twelve ounces of the veal prepared as indicated above, six ounces of fresh butter, and eight ounces of panada, No. 184; pound these well together; mix in gradually three whole eggs, two tablespoonfuls of good white sauce, and the yolks of two others; season with nutmeg, pepper and salt; and when the forcemeat has been thoroughly mixed by pounding it into a smooth compact body, take it out of the mortar into a basin, and keep it on the ice, or in a cool place until required for use as herein- after directed. Note.—All kinds of quenelle forcemeats are to be prepared according to the foregoing instructions, using for the different varieties the fillets of fowls, pheasante, THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND grouse, partridges, hares, rabbits, &c.: all, or any of these are of course first to undergo the same process as indi- cated for the preparation of veal, and to be used in the same proportions, No. 186.- QUENELLE FORCEMEAT OF WHITINGS. Skin two largo whitings, scrape off the flesh with a spoon, and force it through a wire sieve with the back part of the bowl of a wooden spoon, on to a plate. Next, to twelve ounces of the prepared fish, add eight ounces of the panada, No. 184, and six ounces of fresh butter; pound these in a mortar, adding gradually three whole eggs and the yolks of two others; season with nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and after being thoroughly mixed by further pounding, remove it into a basin to be kept upon ice till required for use. Note.—All kinds of fish quenelle forcemeat must be prepared as indicated for the composition of whiting forcement, using for those purposes any given quantity of salmon, trout, gurnet, haddock, or codfish ; bearing in mind that previously to mixing the fish with the other ingredients, it must be forced through a wire sieve. The proportions of panada and butter are the same. No. 187.—LOBSTER QUENELLES. Take a fresh-boiled hen lobster; break the shell, and remove the meat, pith, and coral and spawn; cut up the tail into neat scollops and place these in reserve in a small stewpan, with a little of the lobster butter. Next, place all the remainder of the meat and pith of the lobster in a mortar with the flesh of a large white ing, four ounces of butter, and six ounces of panada, No. 184; add two whole eggs and two yolks, season with nutmeg, cayenne pepper, and a teaspoonful of anchovy; pound the forcemeat thoroughly, and when well mixed, remove it into a basin to be used as hereinafter directed. HOUSEKEEPERS AND BUTLER'S ASSISTAN'T 65 No. 188.—FORCEMEAT OF LIVER AND HAM, FOR RAISED PIES, &c. Take equal quantities of calf's liver and fat bacon, and cut these in square pieces the size of a walnut. First, fry the pieces of bacon in a large stewpan, and when about half done, add the pieces of liver, seasull with prepared herbaceous seasoning, No. 948, a clove of garlic, and a little salt; and as soon as the liver is about half done, first chop fine, and then pound the whole in a mortar until reduced to a smooth substance, and force this through a wire sieve, and put it in a basin for use. No. 189.—FORCEMEAT FOR PRESERVING GAME. For this purpose, bone a fresh-killed hare, and cut it into pieces, and fry these with equal quantities of calf's liver and fat bacon ; season as in the preceding case, and finish the forcemeat in the same manner, to be used as will be herein shown. No. 190.—GODIVEAU, AN ECONOMICAL KIND OF FORCEMEAT. To half a pound of veal - free from skin, sinew, and fat—add half a pound of beef-suet; chop these very fine; put them in a mortar; season with a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and a few chopped chives and parsley ; pound all together thoroughly until mixed into a smooth com- pact body, and then take it up on a plate, and set it upon the ice to rest for an hour; after which time, put it into the mortar, and pound it again with six ounces of clean ice, until both are so thoroughly mixed as to pre- sent a soft, smooth, creamy appearance; roll this on the table with flour, and, having divided it into small pieces, form these into round balls ; place them on a baking- sheet, and set them in the oven (slack heat for five minutes ; and when done, use them as herein directed. 66 TUE COOK'S GUIDE, AND DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL. No. 191.–TURBOT, PLAIN BOILED. TC EBOT. l'ash the turbot, wipe it dry, rub it over with the juice of a lemon, and a little salt, and put it into a fish- kettle with water sufficient to cover it; add a handful of salt, set the kettle over the fire, and as soon as it begins to boil, lift it down by the side of the fire, to continue gently simmering for about half an hour—more or less, according to the size and weight of the fish ; when done, skim the water, lift the turbot out carefully upon its drainer, slide it gently off on to the dish covered with a folded napkin, garnish it round neatly with picked par- sley, and send to table with either lobster sauce, No.40, or Dutch sauce, No. 79. No. 192.—TURBOT A LA PARISIÈNNE. Remove the backbone from a small turbot, and stuff it with forcemeat of whiting, No. 186; then place it on a sautapan or baking-sheet previously spread with an HOOSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 67 onnce of butter; moisten with mushroom juice, a couple of glasses of white wine, and some oyster liquor, if handy; season with a little pepper and salt, put an ounce of butter in bits all over the fish, and set it in the oven to bake, basting it frequently with its own liquor; and when done through, remove the turbot on to its dish carefully with a fish-slice, and keep it hot while you prepare the following sauce : viz.,—first, dissolve two ounces of but- ter in a stewpan over the fire; add two ounces of flour, mix together, moisten with the liquor from the turbot, season with nutmeg, cayenne, lemon-juice, a little an- chovy and a glass of sherry; stir over the fire fir ten minutes ; then mix in a leason of four yolks of eggs, and a gill of cream, some picked prawns, button mushrooms, and scalded and bearded oysters, and a piece of lobster- butter, make the sauce hot without boiling ; pour it over the turbot, and serve. Note.- When you happen to have some good white sauce ready, it will be necessary only to boil down the liquor from the fish, and add it to the sauce with the garnish. No. 193.—GRILLED TURBOT A LA VATEL. Place the turbot on a dish; season it with pepper and salt, lemon-juice, and a little salad-oil. Half an hour before dinner-time, place the turbot on the gridiron, over a slow clear fire, to gril (a double gridiron is necessary for this purpose); turn it every five minutes, and bast it by dipping a paste-brush in the seasoning left in the dish, and when the fish is done through, remove it on to its dish; and pour over it the following sauce : viz.,—prepare some muscle sauce, No. 42, with a glass of wine and a leason of four yolks, and a gill of cream, and garnish the turbot round with a border of boiled crayfish. No. 194.—TURBOT À LA NORMANDE. Prepare a turbot as directed in No. 192, and when dished up, put the liquor it has been baked in into a # 2 08 THE Cook's GUIDE, AND stowpan; boil it down to a fourth part of its original quantity, and add it to some white matelotte sauce, No. 87; pour this over the turbot; garnish round with heart- shaped or oval fried crôutons of bread, and serve. No. 195.—TURBOT WITH CREAM AU GRATIN. This dish is prepared from any turbot which happens to be left from a previous day's dinner. Remove the fish from the bones ; pare off the black skin, and cut up the pieces into scollops; to these add some cream becha- mel sauce, No. 16; make the fish hot without bruising the pieces ; pile it up neatly in a dish ; shake over the surface some grated Parmesan cheese, and upon this pour, say half a gill of good thick cream ; use the red-hot sala- mander (see Adams' Illustrations) to colour the surface of this dish of a light-golden brown, and serve quite hot. No. 196.—TURBOT A LA BECHAMEL. The remains of turbot are prepared as in the foregoing case, with the addition of a few oysters when in season, and also a little cream; it is dished up with a border of potato croquettes. Note.—Scollops of turbot, or of almost any other kind of fish, may be prepared in the same way, and used also for garnishing vol-au-vents, borders of potato, &c. No. 197.— FILLETS OF TURBOT. A small turbot may be purchased for this purpose ; and after cutting out the fleshy parts from the four divisions intervening between the fins and the back- bone, divide these into square oblong pieces, and place them neatly in a sautapan with two ounces of dissolved butter, pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; set them in the oven to bake for ten minutes, or over the fire ; in the latter case, the fillets must be turned over to admit of their being done on both sides. The fillets, after being drained on a napkin, must be dished up similarly to outlets, and sauced over with either of the following HOUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 09 sances: viz.,—maître-d'hôtel, Dutch sauce, ravigotte, Italian, Indian, lobster, shrimp, oyster, muscle, &c.; each kind of sauce affording a variety, as well as being suitable to convenience. No. 198.—BRILL. This fish very much resembles turbot, and may there- fore be treated in the same way, the directions for dress- ing which may be followed in all particulars. No. 199.—JOHN DORY. Cook the fish in water with a little salt, and be care- ful that it is not allowed to boil; as this fish, which is far from presenting an ornamental or pleasing aspect, is positively hideous to behold when further disfigured by its being allowed to boil fast while it is being cooked. When the dory is done, dish it up with care, in order not to break it; and send it to table with lobster, shrimp, anchovy, or Dutch sauce. Note.—Dories may also be stuffed, and baked or grilled, and served with brown caper sauce, or piquante sauce. No. 200.-SALMON, PLAIN. KALMON. Put the salmon, whether whole, in parts, or in slices, to boil in water with salt; but remember never to use vinegar when dressing salmon or trout, as that 70 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND destroys both colour and flavour. As soon as the fish is done, lift it out of the water to drain for a minute; dish it up on a folded napkin; garnish round with picked parsley, and serve with either of the following sauces, viz.,---lobster, shrimp, anchovy, Dutch, or green parsley sauce. No. 201.—GRILLED SALMON. Procure one or more slices of salmon about an inch thick, rub them over with salad-oil, and season with pepper and salt; and having placed them on a gridiron over a clear fire to broil, carefully turn the slices of salmon over every five minutes, basting occasionally either with a little butter or oil, according to taste; and when the salmon is done through, which will be accom plished in about half an hour, and may be ascertained by finding that on a little pressure the bone easily separates from the fish, it is to be placed on its dish, and either of the following sauces poured over it and served : brown capers, Provençale, bourguignotte, brown butter sauce, or Italian sauce. No. 202.- SALMON A LA TARTARE. The slices of salmon are to be grilled as in the fore- going case; and when done, placed on a dish neatly overlapping each other. Some Tartar sauce, No. 38, or Prince of Wales' sauce, No. 81, must be previously poured into the dish, and elegantly garnished round with Indian pickles, anchovies, olives, capers, and gherkins. No. 203.--MATELOT'TE OF SALMON. The inferior parts of the fish suit this purpose; let them be cut into slices, and after being boiled in the usual way, dished up; pour some matelotte sauce, No. 86. over the salmon; garnish with mushrooms, quenelles, crayfish, and fried crôutons of bread, and send to table. Upon ordinary occasions these expensive adjuncts may of course be dispensed with. HOUSEKEEPERS AND BUTLER'S ASSISI ANT. No. 204.—SALMON A LA REGENCE. For this purpose procure a small salmon-peel weighing - about six pounds; truss it in the form of an S, boil it off some hours before dinner-time, and having removed the fish from the water, and allowed it to become cold, with a knife carefully peel off the skin, and then mask over the fish entirely with a coating of fish forcemeat, No. 186 (in which there has been mixed a good quantity of lobster spawn to colour it red), and after smoothing the surface over by means of a knife dipped in hot water and lightly drawn over the forcemeat, insert thereupon some pieces of truffles to form a decoration represent- ing sprigs of laurels, &c.; cover the salmon over with paper previously well greased with butter, place it in the oven for about half an hour before dinner-time, and when the forcemeat has become firin, yet somewhat elastic to the touch, dish up the salmon, garnish it with périgueux sauce, No. 67, some decorated quenelles of lobster, No. 187, large crayfish, and button mushrooms. Note.- As this is evidently a very extravagant dish, it may be indulged in only upon extraordinary occasions ; and even then the most expensive articles may be dispensed with, without deterioration to the superiority of the dish itself. No. 205.– FILLETS OF SALMON A L'INDIENNE. Procure a pound and a half of salmon from the tail end (that part being cheapest); divide the fish from the backbone by running or slipping the edge of the knife along the side of the spine ; and when this is effecteil, remove the skin in like manner; cut the fish into neat squares or heart-shaped pieces, about a quarter of an inch thick; dip these fillets in some beaten egg; drain and roll them in some fine bread crumbs; fry them of a light-fawn colour in some lard previously made very hot for the purpose ; and when done, dish them up neatly and pour over them some Indian sauce, No. 73, and 12 TAE 000K'S GUIDE, AND sprinkle over the fillets some finely shred peel of the green mountain gherkins, to be had of Crosse and Black well, Soho-square. No. 206.—FILLETS OF SALMON A LA MARESCHALE. Let these be prepared and bread-crumbed as directed in the foregoing case ; and instead of frying them in lard, two ounces of clarified butter, in a sautapan, must be used for that purpose ; and when the fillets of salmon are done, and dished up, garnish the centre of the entrée with either muscles, oysters, prawns, or shrimps (these must of course have been previously scalded or picked); pour over the garnish and round the fillets some ravigotte sauce, No. 34, or aurora sauce, No. 88, and serve hot. No. 207.—FILLETS OF SALMON A LA TARTARE. Trim, crumb, and fry the fillets of salmon as in the foregoing case, and dish them up on some Tartar sauce, No. 38, previously placed in the centre of the dish. No. 208.—FILLETS OF SALMON A LA RAVIGO TE. Trim the fillets of salmon in the form of squares or ovals, place them neatly in a sautapan with a little clari. fied butter, pepper, and salt, chopped parsley, and the juice of half a lemon ; and set them in the oven or upon a slow fire until done on one side, and then turn them over; and when done through, drain and dish them up in a ring; sauce over with ravigotte sauce, No. 34 or No. 57. No. 209.—BOILED SALMON AFTER THE SCOTCH FASHION. To dress salmon or trout in perfection in this style, it us quite necessary that the fish be dressed a short time after being caught. Sportsmen well know that it is only while this kind of fish is yet almost alive that it retains that white creamy substance which appears between the fakes of the boiled fish, and which makes it so truly delicious: this is little known to London epicures. If HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 73 it be practicable to procure what is termed a live salmon, take out the gills, draw out the guts, &c., wash the fish and crimp it on either side, by making deep incisions with a very sharp knife, and then throw it into a large tub containing clean, cold, spring-water, fresh from the pump; the water to be changed every half-hour, and the salmon to remain in it for about two hours. In crimping any sort of fish, the colder the water is the better; the coldness of the water petrifying the fish to a certain degree, gives it the firmness so much desired. Put the crimped salmon on to boil in hot water, with a good handful of salt; allow it to boil gently on the side of the stove, remembering that all crimped fish require considerably less time to boil than plain fish. As soon as the fish is done, it should be immediately drained from the water, dished up, and served with lobster and Dutch sauces, or else with the following sauce: viz.,- put half a pound of fresh churned butter into a clean stewpan with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, nut- meg, pepper, and salt, and lemon-juice; work this with a spoon (the stewpan containing these ingredients im- mersed in hot water) until dissolved and mixed, and serve with crimped fish, in a sauceboat. Note.—The foregoing instructions for crimped salmon and trout are placed here solely for the benefit of such of my readers as may be fortunate enough to live sufficiently near salmon fisheries to enjoy an occasional day's sport, to enable them, when they have been suc- cessful, to cook their prize in greatest perfection. TAL COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 210.-TROUT, PLAIN BOILED. TOTT. Boil the trout in water with salt; and when done through, dish it up on a napkin in a dish; garnish it round with picked parsley, and serve separately in a sauce-boat any of the following sauces: viz.,—Dutch sauce, parsley, butter, shrimp, anchovy, ravigotte, or Scotch sauce as indicated in the preceding article. No. 211.—GRILLED TROUT, EPICUREAN SAUCE. Split a trout down the back with a knife, and spread it open without bruising it; lay the fish upon a dish, season it with a little oil, pepper, and salt, and a squeeze of lemon-juice; place it between the bars of a double gridiron, over a clear fire to broil; turning it, and bast- ing it occasionally with a little oil or a bit of butter: and when done, which will take about half an hour, place it on its dish, pour some piquante sauce, No. 22. in which there has been mixed a good pat of epicurean butter, No. 130, and serve. No. 212.—TROUT WITH GENOESE SAUCE. Boil a trout, remove the skin, dish it up, and sauce it over with Genoese sauce, No. 20, and serve. Note.—Boiled trout may also be served with the following sauces : viz.,—Dutch, green ravigotte, cardi. nal, bourguignotte, white or brown matelotte, &c. BOUSEKEEPER 8 AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 76 No. 213.—TROUT A L'AURORE. Boil a trout, remove the skin, and cover the fish over with the following preparation : viz.,—To three raw yolks of eggs add half a gill of white sauce, an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, the juice of half a lemon, a teaspoonful of anchovy, a little nutmeg and pepper; stir this over the fire in a stewpan until it begins to thicken, and then, having masked the trout with it, shake over the surface the whites of two hard eggs shred fine, which have been mixed with the hard yolks rubbed through a wire sieve, and also a little grated Parmesan cheese. Twenty minutes before dinner-time, put the trout in the oven to make it hot; colour it with the salamander of a light-golden brown; pour either some tomata, prawns, or shrimp sauce round the fish, and serve. No. 214.—FILLETS OF TROUT. These are prepared and finished in the same manner as fillets of salmon. No. 215.—STURGEON A LA CARDINAL. Procure about two pounds of sturgeon, remove the skin with a sharp knife, tie the piece of fish round neatly into shape with string, and place it in a stew- pan with sliced carrot and onion, bay-leaf, thyme, and parsley, a glass of vinegar, four cloves, salt, and a bit of mace, and water enough to cover the fish; set this to boil gently until the sturgeon is done, which will take more or less time according to the size and age of the sturgeon from which the piece has been cut. When done, dish up the sturgeon, garnish with a border of quenelles of whiting, and crayfish, placed alternately round it; sauce it over with cardinal sauce, No. 62, and serve. Note.— To save expense, the garnish may be dispensed with, and the sauce only used. TEE (700x's GUIDE, AND No. 216.—STURGEON A LA BOURGUIGNOTTE. Boil a piece of sturgeon, large or small, according to directions in No. 215, and having dished it up, pour' over it soine bourguignotte sauce, No. 60. No. 217.—STURGEON A LA ROYALE. For this purpose it will be necessary to procure a larger piece of sturgeon than in the preceding cases, say four pounds to six pounds; and this should be of oblong shape. Remove the skin, roll up the fish, and tie it neatly and close round with string so as to give it the form of a bolster, boil it gently with carrot, onion, bay-leaf, thyme, and parsley, a little salt, vinegar, and water; and when the sturgeon is done, drain it on a dish, and set it to cool. When cold, mask the whole of the surface of the piece of sturgeon with some forcemeat of whiting; smooth this over with a knife dipped fre- quently in hot water, and ornament or decorate it with truffle, tongue, and the peel of green Indian gherkins; and this done, cover it over with buttered paper; moisten the bottom part of the fish only, by pouring about a pint of the liquor it was boiled in, or a little broth, into the baking-dish it is placed upon, and about three- quarters of an hour before dinner-time, put it in the oven to bake rather slowly, basting it occasionally with its own liquor, and when done, place it carefully on its dish, garnish round the base with groups of truffles, mushrooms, picked prawns, and small quenelles of whiting, the forcemeat of which has had a green colour imparted to it by the addition of chopped boiled parsley; pour some well-made ravigotte sauce, No. 34, or some Allemande, No. 17, round and over the fish, and serve. Note.—This is rather an expensive affair, and is therefore to be indulged in upon gala days only. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. No. 218.—STURGEON GRILLED, PIQUANTE SAUCE. Procure a slice of tender sturgeon about an inch thick, rub it over with a little salad-oil, season with pepper and salt, and broil it over a clear fire until done on both sides ; place it on its dish, and pour over it some piquante sauce, No. 22, in which there has been incorporated one ounce of fresh butter and a little anchovy. Note.—Grilled or boiled sturgeon may also be served in every variety and fashion of dressing indicated for the preparation of salmon. No. 219.—BAKED CODFISH, STUFFED. Procure a perfectly fresh middle-sized fish, wipe it thoroughly clean, fill the inside with veal stuffing, No. 294, sew up the flaps, and having trussed the cod in the form of the letter S, with a sharp knife make deep incisions on both sides of the fish, and place it upon a baking-dish ; moisten the cod all over with half a pound of dissolved butter, season with pepper and salt, and some oyster liquor, and set it to bake in the oven; basting it frequently with its own liquor; about an hour and a halfs baking will suffice to do it thoroughly. When about half done, with a dredger containing brown raspings of rolls, shake a coating all over the fish; this must be repeated several times; whereby not only the appearance of the fish will be enhanced, but the flavour will also be considerably improved. The cod done, lift it carefully by means of two fish-slices, cleverly handled, on to its dish; strain the liquor into a stewpan, add thereto six ounces of butter, four ounces of flour, a glass of Harvey, a glass of wine, a little anchovy, cayenne, nutmeg, a few chopped capers, lemon-juice, and four dozen of scalded oysters; stir it over the fire until it wils; pour it over and round the fish, and serve. THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND So. 220.—CRIMPED-COD, OYSTER SAUCE. Have some clean water ready boiling on the fire; place the slice or slices of crimped cod in it; add salt in sufficient quantity to strongly flavour the water, and having allowed the fish to boil very gently for about twenty minutes, the slices must be immediately dished up as soon as they are done; inasmuch as to allow any fish to remain in water after it is done, spoils it; but this is more particularly the case with all crimped fish. Garnish the slices of crimped cod with picked parsley, and some pieces of the liver which have been boiled separately, and serve oyster sauce, No. 43, in a sauceboat. Note.—Cod's liver, when boiled with the fish, through the decomposition of its oil, imparts an unpleasantly strong flavour. No. 221.—COD A LA DIEPPOISE. Procure slices of cod about half an inch thick, dip them in a little milk on a plate, flour them over tho roughly, and fry them in plenty of very hot lard or clean fat; it will take about twenty minutes to cook them through; the slices of cod must then be drained on a cloth to absorb all grease, and placed neatly on a dish in which there has been previously poured some white matelotte sauce, No. 87, or else, if more conve- nient, muscle sauce, No. 42. No. 222.—COD FRIED, A LA PORTUGUAISE. Fry the slices of codfish as directed in the preceding case; and when done, dish them up, and pour round them the following sauce: viz.,—to half a pint of tomata sauce, No. 21, add the reduced or concentrated liquor of a pint of muscles, a glass of wine, a little Harvey, anchovy, nutmeg, and an ounce of butter; stir over the fire until quite hot, TIOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. No. 223.-.COD GRILLED A LA COLBERT. Slices of cod half an inch thick, dipped in oil or dissolved butter, and afterwards well floured over, must be carefully broiled upon a clean gridiron, over a clear fire; and when done on both sides, dished up with maître-d'hôtel butter, No. 127, under the fish, and some maître-d'hôtel sauce, No. 32, poured all round its base; and serve before the butter has melted. No. 224.—CODFISH A LA RELIGIEUSE. Boil one pound or more codfish, drain it free from water, break it up gently into flakes, and put these into a stewpan with either bechamel sauce, No. 15, oyster sauce, No. 43, or egg sauce, No. 45; toss lightly over the fire until quite hot, pile up in a dish, garnish round with neatly-shaped forms of boiled parsnips, and hard- boiled eggs, placed alternately, and serve. No. 225.—CODFISH A LA CREME. See Turbot, No. 195. No. 226.—COD A L'INDIENNE. Fry or grill the slices of cod as in No. 221 ; and when done, dish them up, and pour over them some curry sauce, No. 85, in which there have been mixed a little anchovy and about two ounces of butter. Serve plain boiled rice separately. No. 227.—PLAIN BOILED RICE FOR CURRIES. Wash the rice thoroughly in several waters, and put, say a pound, to boil in three quarts of cold water, with a little salt; allow it to boil gently until in each grain of rice may be seen the division which is effected in the course of boiling, and which gives to the grains of rice when done the form of the letter x: the rice must then be drained upon a sieve, covered with a napkin, 80 THE COOR'S GUIDE, AND and placed in the screen to dry, care being taken to move it lightly with two clean forks, in order to prevent the grains from sticking together, and becoming clammy. Well-cooked rice for curries, must be thoroughly done, and present a perfectly white and light appearance. No. 228.—BAKED COD'S HEAD. See Baked Cod stuffed, No. 219. No. 229.—HADDOCK EGG SAUCE. Fill the inside of the fish with veal stuffing, No. 294, sew it up securely with trussing needle and twine, truss the haddock in the form of the letter S, boil it in water with a little salt, and when done, dish it up, garnish it with picked parsley, and serve with egg sauce, No. 45, in a sauce-boat. No. 230.—BAKED HADDOCK. Stuff and bake the haddock as directed for baked cod- fish ; and wher, dished up, sauce it over with piquante sauce, No. 22, finished with a pat of butter and a little anchovy. No. 231.—GRILLED HADDOCK. Wipe the haddock thoroughly dry, rub it over with oil, and then flour it over dry; broil it upon a gridiron, over a clear fire, and when done on both sides, dish it up on a napkin ; and serve separately in a sauce-boat either Dutch sauce, maître-d'hôtel, shrimp sauce, or anchovy butter sauce. No. 232.—FILLETS OF HADDOCKS. These are prepared in the same manner as fillets of almon, for which see No. 207. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER S ASSISTANT. 81 No. 233.—SOLES BOILED. Cat off the rough edge of the fins, wash clean, and boil in water with a little salt; and when done through, dish up the sole on a folded napkin with the white side uppermost; garnish round with picked parsley, and serve either of the following sauces in a sauce-boat- "iz.,—anchovy, Dutch, or shrimp sauce. No. 234.—SOLES FRIED. Trim away the fins of the sole, wipe it dry, run the point of a knife straight along the back part of the spinal bone, rub the sole over with flour, and then with a paste brush dipped in beaten egg, moisten it all over on both sides, and cover it well with fine bread-crumbs ; fry it in a sufficient quantity of very hot lard or frying fat to swim it, and when done through, drain the fish on a cloth to absorb all grease ; dish it upon a napkin with some fried parsley; serve either lobster, Dutch, shrimp, or anchovy sauce. No. 235.—SOLE A LA COLBERT. Fry a large sole as directed above, and when done cleverly remove the backbone without deforming the fish; and in the cavity place about two ounces of maître-d'hôtel butter, No. 127, and a small bit of glaze; pour some maître-d'hôtel sauce, No. 32, round the sole, and serve before the butter is melted. No. 236.—SOLE AU GRATIN. Cleanse and trim a sole; place it in a baking-dish previously spread with butter, and sprinkled over with a little pepper and salt, and some raspings of bread; moisten with a glass of white wine, a little mushroom juice or catsup, and a teaspoonful of anchovy; season with finely-chopped parsley, mushrooms, and one shalot; strew some raspings over the surface of the sole, and set 82 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND it in the oven to bake for about half an hour; and when done, remove the sole on to its dish with a fish-slice; add half a glass of wine to the sauce, stir together, pour it over the sole ; apply the red-hot salamander for five minutes, and serve. No. 237.—SOLE WITH FINE HERBS. Prepare a sole as in the foregoing Article ; but, instead of raspings, use some white sauce ; and when the sole is baked, place it on its dish; add a pat of butter and the half of a lemon to the sauce; pour it over the fish, and serve. No. 238.—SOLE A L'AURORE. Bone and stuff a sole with fine herbs (chopped parsley, mushrooms, and shalot fried with butter, pepper, and salt), and bake it on a sautapan with a little butter, a glass of wine, and a little mushroom-juice or broth; and when done, place it on its dish, and finish as indicated for trout à l'aurore, No. 213. No. 239.—SOLE NORMANDE. This is prepared in the first instance as in the fore- going case; and when dished up, boil down the liquor and add it to some white matelotte sauce, No. 87; pour it over the sole, garnish round with crayfish, and fried crôutons of bread. No. 240.—SOLE A LA CARDINAL. Bone, stuff, and bake a large Torbay sole; and when done, dish it up; reduce the liquor and add it to some cardinal sauce, No. 62; pour this over the sole; garnish it round with a border of quenelles of whiting decorated with truffle, and serve. No. 241.— FILLETS OF SOLES. First, skin the sole, and then lay it flat on the table, and with the point of a sharp knife make a deep incision right along the backbone, and then inserting the knife HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 83 close to the head between the fillet and the fin bones, and by dexterously slipping the edge of the knife under the fillet up to the fins—from head to tail, the fillet will be easily removed entire and free from jags; and thus, having filleted as many solos as may be required for your intended purpose, divide each fillet across the centre; trim the ends neatly and place them symmetrically in a sautapan containing about two ounces of clarified butter; season with lemon-juice and a little pepper and salt; set the sautapan on the fire, or in the oven to cook the fillets, and in ten or twelve minutes, if thoroughly done, drain them upon a cloth to absorb the grease ; dish them up in a circular form, each fillet overlying the other; pour over them either of the following sauces, and serve :—maître-d'hôtel, ravigotte, Dutch, cardinal, white matelotte, shrimp, Indian, Italian, muscle, or green ravigotte. No. 242.—FILLETS OF SOLE FRIED. When the fillets of soles are trimmed, flour them over, and then dip each piece separately in some beaten egg; roll them in some fine bread-crumbs, and place them in a wire frying basket (see Adams' Illustrations at the end of the book). And having some hot clean frying fat, immerse the fillets in the basket in it; allow them to fry for about ten minutes, by which time they will have acquired a light-golden brown colour; they must then be withdrawn from the fat, drained on a cloth, dished up neatly, similarly to cutlets ; and, having poured either of the sauces named in the preceding Article round them, send to table. No. 243.—FILLETS OF FISH, FRIED IN BATTER. Having trimmed the fillets of any kind of fish in a similar manner to fillets of soles, place them in a pan with a little oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt, a little picked parsley, and a sliced onion; mix altogether in order that the fillets may be well impregnated with the seasoning; G 2 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND and when about to cook them, let them be drained on a cloth, and afterwards dip each fillet separately in some light frying batter, No. 288; and taking care that they are not overladen with the batter, drop them quickly into the hot frying fat, and turn them about lightly with a fork so as to admit of their being caught equally all over by the heat of the fat, which will cause them to be evenly coloured. The fillets will take about a quarter of an hour to fry them thoroughly; and when done, are to be dished up, and served with either of the sauces named in the foregoing Articles. It is advisable to serve the sauce separately, as the steam arising there- from destroys the crispness of the batter. No. 244.—FILLETS OF SOLE A LA TARTARE. Bread-crumb the fillets of sole in the usual manner; fry them in two ounces of clarified butter, in a sautapan, over a sharp fire, and when done of a golden brown, drain them on a cloth, and dish them upon some Tartar sauce, No. 38. No. 245.—FILLETS OF SOLES A LA ROUENNAISE. For this purpose the thin pellicle or under-skin must be removed from the fillets by pressing gently, yet firmly, with the fingers of the left hand, while with the right hand the knife must be run through between the thin skin and the fillet of the fish, so as to remove the skin without cutting the fillet through, or in any way injuring it; and when this is accomplished, spread the fillets out to their full length, and cover them thinly with a coating of forcemeat whiting, in which there has been mixed some lobster-spawn to give it a red colour; and then, folding the fillets together, place them symmetrically with the pointed ends all converg- ing to the centre of the sautapan containing some clarified butter; season with pepper and salt; sprinkle lightly some chopped parsley over the fillets; place a HOUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 85 small stewpan lid in the centre of the sautapan to press the ends of the fillets, in order to prevent them from spreading open while they are being cooked in the oven; this will take about twenty minutes, and when done, dish up the fillets like cutlets, pour in the centre and round their base some white matelotte sauce, No. 87, and serve. This is a very handsome dressed fish. No. 246.—BOILED GURNET. Fill the inside of the gurnet with some veal stuffing ; sew up the flaps; boil it in water with a little salt; and when done, dish it up on a folded napkin; garnish it round with picked parsley, and serve with white or brown caper sauce, Nos. 25 and 26, or with anchovy, shrimp, Dutch, lobster, or piquante sauce. No. 247.—BAKED GURNET. See Baked Codfish, No. 219, and pour round the gur net some Provençal sauce, No. 69. No. 248.—FILLETS OF GURNET. These may be prepared in every variety of form pre- scribed for dressing fillets of soles. No. 249.—BOILED MACKEREL Boil the mackerel in salt and water, and send to table with either fennel, parsley, or gooseberry sauce. No. 250.—BOILED MACKEREL A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL. Split the mackerel down the back, season with pepper and salt, oil it over, place it on a gridiron over a moderate fire; and when done on both sides, take it up on a hot dish, and fill the inside with cold maître-d'hôtel butter, No. 127; pour some maître-d'hôtel sauce round the base, and serve. 86 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 251.—GRILLED MACKEREL WITH BROWN BUTTER SAUCE. Grill the mackerel as directed in the preceding case; serve it up on a hotdish with fried parsley placed at each end, pour some brown butter sauce, No.54, over it, and serve. No. 252.—FILLETS OF MACKEREL A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL. To fillet the mackerel, place the fish on the table with the head to your right and its back towards you; then run the knife in, just below the gills; turn the edge of the blade under; press with the fingers full on the upper end of the fillet, and bearing with the blade of the knife gently down to the tail, the first fillet will thus be removed; repeat this action on the side of the backbone, and then, dividing the fillets into halves crosswise, trim off the black inside skin and bones; cut off the corners, and arrange the fillets in symmetrical order in a sauta- pan containing two ounces of dissolved butter; season with pepper and salt, lemon-juice, and chopped parsley; set them over the fire, or in the oven for twelve minutes, and when done through, drain and dish them up in circular form; place the roes (previously parboiled in water with a little vinegar and salt) in the centre; pour some maître-d'hôtel sauce, No. 32, over all, and serve. Note.—Fillets of mackerel prepared as prescribed in the first part of the foregoing directions may also be served with any of the following sauces, viz. :—ravigotte, Dutch, brown butter, piquante, matelotte, or Genoese. No. 253.—RED MULLETS GRILLED. Season the mullet with pepper and salt; rub it over with oil; place it on a gridiron over a moderate fire, and having grilled it on both sides, dish it up, and serve with either maître-d'hôtel, Provençale, piquante, Genoese, tomata, ravigotte, or Italian sauce. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 87 No. 254.—RED MULLETS WITH FINE HERBS. Place the mullets in a sautapan with an ounce of but- ter, a little Harvey, anchovy, and a glass of wine ; hake them in the oven, or else covered up over a slow fire; and when done, remove the fish on to their dish; add to their liquor some finely chopped truffle, mushrooms, parsley, a little shalot, nutmeg, and the juice of half a lemon, and a little flour; stir these together over the fire for a few minutes; pour the sauce over the mullets, and serve quite hot. No. 255.—RED MULLETS IN PAPERS. These are to be prepared as in the foregoing case, and a leason of three yolks of eggs and a spoonful of cream to be added when finishing the sauce. The mullets must be placed in oiled papers, an equal proportion of the sauce spread over each, and then fastened down in these oiled papers, by means of twisting the edges of the papers in a somewhat similar manner to that used for twisting the hem of a muslin frill when about to pre- pare its edge for what sempstresses term whipping. This papering process being satisfactorily accomplished, broil the mullets over a slow fire to warm them through, and also to colour them on both sides without at all burning the paper, and this done, serve them on a napkin. No. 256.—RED MULLETS A LA CHESTERFIELD. The mullets should be seasoned and baked as pre- scribed in the foregoing cases, and when done, and dished up, must be sauced over with some crayfish sauce, for making which proceed as indicated for the prepara- tion of lobster sauce, observing that the liquor from the mullets must be incorporated with the sauce. Gar- nish the mullets round with small truffles and crayfish, and serve. THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 257.—WHITINGS BOILED. Boil the whiting in water with a little salt, and when done, serve with either Dutch, plain melted butter, anchovy, or merely a little cold butter lightly mixed with the flakes of the fish. Plain boiled whitings con- stitute but insipid eating, and are seldom eaten ex- cept by invalids; for whom they are considered light food. No. 258.—FRIED WHITINGS. First, skin the whiting, and then turn the tail round, and fasten it between the jaws by means of a small pointed twig; this done, flour it over, having dipped it in beaten egg, roll it in bread-crumbs, and fry it in plenty of t.ot frying fat; and when done through, dish it up with fried parsley, and serve with anchovy or shrimp sauce, separately. No. 259.—WHITINGS BROILED. First, rub the whiting over with oil, and then having rolled it in flour, broil it over a clear fire; and when done, serve with the following sauce: viz.,—two ounces of butter, two yolks of eggs, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, chopped parsley and a few drops of elder-vinegar; stir briskly over a slow fire for a few minutes, and as soon as the sauce slightly thickens, pour it into a sauce-boat, and serve. No. 260.—WHITINGS AU GRATIN. See Soles au Gratin, No. 236. No. 261.—FILLETS OF WHITINGS A LA HORLY. Fillet the whitings with the skin left on in the same manner as indicated for filleting mackerel ; divide them crosswise, and having trimmed the fillets, season them with pepper and salt, and a sprinkle of oil and vinegar ; dip them in a little beaten white of egg; flour HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 89 them well, and fry them crisp ; and when done, dish them up on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve tomata, ravigotte, or piquante sauce, separately. No. 262.—FRIED WHITINGS A LA FRANCAISE. Merely wipe the whiting without skinning it; score it along both sides, by making deep incisions with a sharp knife; dip the fish in a little milk on a plate, and having well floured it over, fry it in plenty of hot fat, of a light colour, and perfectly crisp, and serve with anchovy, shrimp, ravigotte, or maître-d'hôtel sauce. Note.—This mode of frying fish is much more simple, as well as more economical, than the process of bread- crumbing, and is unquestionably more palatable. No. 263.—GRILLED CHAR. Char is a very scarce fish; it is considered a great delicacy, and is seldom seen in the London markets ; it is caught only in the lakes of Cumberland, and its flesh is of a pinky hue, resembling in colour and flavour that of the fresh-water trout. Broil the char in the same manner as herrings, and serve it with either piquante, Provençale, ravigotte, or mustard sauce. No. 264.—WATER SOUCHET OF CHAR. Fillet the char, pare off the skin, put the fillets to boil for five minutes in a stewpan with some shred parsley-roots and parsley-leaves, and some weak bright stock, with a pinch of pepper and salt; and serve alto- gether with thin slices of brown bread and butter on a plate, separately. No. 265.—STEWED LAMPREYS. Lampreys should be rubbed over with a little salt, drawn, and washed clean; and after being wiped dry, are to be cut up in lengths of about three inches; and 90 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND being placed in a stewpan with some button-mushroonis, chopped parsley, nutmeg, pepper and salt, a pint of wine, and a few button-onions, are to be stewed gently over the fire until nearly done; then add two ounces of butter, with two ounces of flour, kneaded together very smoothly; stir this in very gently over the fire to boil for five minutes, and serve hot. Lampreys may also be stewed with cyder instead of wine; or merely with stock or water; in the latter case add a bit of glaze and a little anchovy. No. 266.—FRIED SMELTS. Wipe the smelts, cut off the fins, roll them in flour, dip them in beaten egg, bread-crumbs, and fry them in plenty of hot frying fat; and when done, dish them up with fried parsley, and serve with shrimp or anchovy sauce. No. 267.—BAKED SMELTS. Spread the bottom of a dish with butter, sprinkle thereon some raspings of bread, season with chopped parsley and shalots, pepper, and salt; then place the smelts in a row; pour over them a little Harvey, anchovy, and a glass of wine; repeat the butter, seasoning, and the raspings, and having placed them in the oven for about a quarter of an hour, when thoroughly done, serve quite hot. No. 268.—EELS SPITCHCOCKED. First skin and draw the eels by splitting down the vent; then cut them into pieces of about three inches long, and remove the backbone by loosening it on both sides with a knife, and cut it out with scissors. This done, season the pieces of eel with chopped parsley and shalot, pepper, and salt, a very little oil, and a few drops of vinegar or lemon juice; dip each piece in beaten egg, and bread-crumb them without disturbing any portion of the seasoning. When about to send to table, fry the pieces of eel in hot frying fat, dish them in a circular row, pour some piquante sauce in the centre, and serve. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. No. 269.—STEWED EELS. See Stewed Lampreys, No. 265. No. 270.—EELS A LA TARTARE. Skin, draw, and cut the eels into pieces an inch long; half cook them by gently and partially boiling them in water with a little salt and vinegar; and when drained and cold, bread-crumb and fry them; dish up the pieces of eel upon some Tartar sauce, No. 38, already poured in the centre of the dish for that purpose. No. 271.—STEWED EELS, WHITE. Cut up the eels as in the foregoing cases, and stew them with the same seasoning and a little French white wine; stir in the kneaded butter, and finish by adding a little chopped parsley and a leason of three yolks of eggs and half a gill of cream. No. 272.—CARP FRIED. To fry carp, the fish must be scaled and drawn, split down the back, and laid open; a small angular stone which lies deeply set at the base of the skull, and which is called the gall-stone, must be taken out, for if allowed to remain, it is liable to impart a bitter taste to the fish. Season the carp with pepper and salt, flour it over, and fry it in hot fat; and when done, dish it up with fried parsley, and serve either Italian, ravigotte, or piquante sauce, in a sauce-boat. Carp may also be bread-crumbed in the usual way, if preferred. No. 273.—STEWED CARP. These may be stewed whole or cut in pieces; the pre- paration is the same as for stewed eels or lampreys, No. 265. Large-sized carp should be stuffed either with veal stuffing, or with forcemeat of any kind of fish; and THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND stewed in a little stock with a small quantity of carrot, onion, &c., and a glass of red wine; and when done, dish up the carp; strain the liquor into a stewpan, to be boiled down and incorporated with either matelotte sauce, No. 86 or No. 20; garnish with crayfish and quenelles, and serve. No. 274.—CARP, STUFFED AND BAKED. See Codfish, No. 219. No. 275.—STEWED TENCH. Place the tench in a stewpan with a small bunch of parsley, green onions, thyme, and bay-leaf, a little pepper and salt, and just enough common French wine or cyder to cover it; stew the tench gently over a slow fire till it is done; then dish it up; strain the liquor into a small stewpan; thicken with an ounce of butter, kneaded with an ounce of flour; add a little mushroom- catsup, anchovy, nutmeg, chopped parsley, and some prepared mushrooms; stir the sauce over the stove for five minutes; pour it over the tench, and send to table. Note.—Tench bearing so great an affinity to carp, may also be dressed in every variety prescribed for that fish. No. 276.—BARBLE, ROACH, AND DACE. Barbie is but an indifferent kind of fish, and is hardly worth dressing for table; yet, as we all have a tendency to be fondest of anything procured through our own exertions, sportsmen at least will find some gratifica- tion in knowing that even barble, when properly treated, is susceptible of yielding a fair share of enjoyment to the gastronomist, who, armed with some little modicum of culinary knowledge, is enabled to turn the most indif. ferent kinds of food into a comparative delicacy. Bar- ble may be cooked in the different fashions indicated for carp or tench. Roach and dace are scarcely worth any other mode of dressing than frying. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 93 No. 277.—BAKED PIKE. The easiest and at the same time the safest manner for removing the scales from any kind of fresh-water fish is to lay it in the sink, to pour boiling water from the spout of a kettle over both sides of the fish, and then as soon as—through the action of the scalding-hot water- the brightness of the scales of the fish has become dulled, immerse the fish in cold water, and you will then find it an easy matter to remove the scales with a blunt knife, or even with the fingers : and thus the pike being scaled, drawn, and washed clean, fill the inside with veal stuffing; truss it in the form of an S; put it in a baking-dish with a pint of common wine, or cyder, or a little stock; half a pound of butter, a glass of catsup, a little anchovy, and some chopped parsley and shalot; set the pike in the oven to bake until it is done, re- membering that it must be frequently basted with its own liquor, and that the heat of the oven must not be fierce, as in that case it would burn up the moisture and spoil the fish. When thoroughly done through, lift the pike carefully on to the dish, with two "fish-slices; strain the liquor it has been baked with into a stewpan; thicken it with two ounces of butter kneaded with two ounces of flour; add a spoonful of Oude sauce (to be had in greatest perfec- tion at Crosse and Blackwell's warehouse, Soho-square), a few sliced gherkins, and a glass of sherry; stir the sauce over the fire for ten minutes, pour it over the fish, and send to table. Small pike may also be cut up and stewed in similar manner to eels, carp, &c.; larger fish of this kind may be cut in thin slices, which, being placed in very cold pump water, will by that means become crimped, pro- viding that the fish be nearly alive. When treated in this manner, crimped slices of pike form a great luxury; and may be served when boiled, or fried, as prescribed for dressing crimped cod, with every variety of sauce directed to be served with cod-fish or salmon. THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 278.—PERCH. Perch, when caught in limpid waters, constitutes very sweet delicate eating : this fish may be successfully dressed in every mode already described for the pre- paration of carp, trout, eels, &c.; in addition to which it is peculiarly well adapted for making water souchet; for which see No. 264. No. 279.—SKATE This fish is generally sold cut in strips and curled round with a piece of the liver in the centre; it is then called crimped skate; and is considered by many deli- cious eating. The general fashion for dressing this fish is to boil it in salt and water, and serve it with white or brown caper sauce, or with shrimp or anchovy sauce. Skate is also excellent when bread-crumbed and fried, and served with either of the sauces above named, and also with tomata, Indian, or piquante sauce. No. 280.—CRAPED SKATE WITH BROWN BUTTER. Boil the skate in water with salt and a little vinegar; and when done, dish it up with some of the liver and fried parsley; pour some carefully-prepared brown butter sauce, No. 54, over it, and serve. This mode of dressing skate, once tried, will ever after continue a favourite with true epicures. No. 281.—WHITE-BAIT. White-bait is a great favourite with all who visit London during the months of May, June, and July, when this delicacy is in greatest perfection. They are a very sinall, silvery-looking fish; and their claim to notice is their sweet savour. It was formerly believed that to obtain white-bait in perfection it was necessary to travel to Blackwall: this fable has long since become obsolete ; HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 95 and certainly, with the assistance of the following in- structions, my readers may henceforth indulge in the luxury of white-bait without its becoming a matter of necessity to go to Blackwall for that purpose. To fry white-bait, drain it on a sieve, and then sprinkle it out of your hand lightly upon plenty of flour strewn thickly over a cloth; and, with the fingers of both hands spread apart, quickly and lightly handle the white-bait; and as in a few seconds it will by these means have be- come well covered with flour, having put it by handfuls into a wire frying basket (see Adams' Illustrations), shake away all the superfluous flour, and dip the basket containing the prepared white-bait into some very hot clean lard. A few minutes will suffice to fry the white- bait of a silvery tinge, yet perfectly crisp; pile it up on a napkin, garnish with fried parsley, and serve it quite hot and crisp, with cayenne, quarters of lemons, and brown bread and butter, separately. No. 282.—DEVILLED WHITE-BAIT. To devil white-bait, it must be fried a first time in the usual way; and then after being sprinkled over with ground black pepper and salt, is to be fried a second time in very hot frying fat: this being done, season it again with cayenne pepper and salt, and serve quite hot. No. 283.—SCOLLOPED OYSTERS. Scale and beard—that is, remove the beards from some dozens of oysters ; strain the liquor into a stewpan, add thereto two ounces of butter, mixed or kneaded with two ounces of flour, a little cream, anchovy, nutmeg, and cayenne; stir the sauce over the fire to boil and reduce for ten minutes; then add a couple of yolks of eggs and a little lemon-juice, and some chopped parsley ; add the oysters cut each into halves, stir altogether over the fire for a few minutes, and fill some scollop-shells with this preparation; cover them over with a thick coating 96 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND of fried bread-crumbs; place them on a baking-sheet in the oven for five minutes, and serve them quite hot. Note. - If you have no scollop-shells, the deep shell of the oyster, well scoured, will serve the purpose. No. 284.—SCOLLOPED MUSCLES. These are prepared similarly to oysters, and placed in scollop-shells likewise. Both oysters and muscles, being first prepared as de- scribed in No. 283, may also be served upon neatly- shaped pieces of dry toast: this constitutes oyster toast, or muscle toast. No. 285.—SCOLLOPED LOBSTER. Split a fresh-boiled lobster into halves, by cutting it through with a strong knife from head to tail; take out all the meat without damaging the shell ; trim away the ragged edges from the two halves of the body-shell, and likewise from the tail and claw-pieces ; let all the meat be cut into small scollops or squares, and reserved in a plate. Pound the pith, coral, and spawn of the lobster in a mortar with a small bit of butter; rub it through a sieve, and put this into a stewpan with a little white sauce of any kind, a little anchovy, nutmeg, cayenne, and lemon-juice, and having stirred the sauce over the fire to boil for a few minutes, add the lobster and the yolks of two raw eggs; stir again over the fire to make it hot; fill the prepared lobster-shells with this; cover them over with fried bread-crumbs: salamander them, and dish up on a folded napkin, with fried parsley. No. 286.—SCOLLOPED COLLOPS. These are a species of shell-fish but seldom exhibited for sale in London; they are more plentiful at Brighton, where they are much esteemed as a great relish, when properly cooked and well seasoned; indeed this last qualification is of great importance, inasmuch as collops being of difficult digestion, it is essential tha. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 97 in order to render them comparatively harmless to per- sons of somewhat delicate digestive organs, they should be thoroughly cooked, and plentifully seasoned with cayenne pepper. First, it is necessary, as soon as the collops are removed without tearing them from the shells, that they should be soaked in water with a little salt, fre- quently handling them, and changing the water, in order to free them from the sand and grit which, if allowed to remain after all the trouble of cooking, render them uneatable. And thus the collops having been thoroughly cleansed, let them be parboiled for five minutes in their own liquor, and when drained, set aside on a plate. Next, put the liquor from the collops into a small stew- pan with a piece of butter, a spoonful of flour, nutmeg, cayenne pepper, a little anchovy, lemon-juice, and cream; stir this sauce over the fire to boil for ten minutes, and place the collops each back in its re- spective deep shell; cover them individually with a good spoonful of the sauce ; finish with a thick layer of fried bread-crumbs; make them thoroughly hot in the oven, and dress them on a folded napkin. No. 287.—SCOLLOPED COCKLES. These are to be prepared with all care as to cleanli- ness, as they contain much grit, &c.; and in all respects proceed as recommended for dressing collops; and when the preparation is ready, as their own shells are too small. use scollop-shells, or pieces of dry toast, in their stead. 98 THE COOK'S GUIDE, ANR CHAPTER V. No. 288.—FRYING BATTER. To three-quarters of a pound of flour add two ounce of dissolved butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and two yolks of eggs; mix this together with a wooden spoon, pouring in at intervals rather better than half a pint of tepid water; let this batter be well worked with the spoon until it presents a perfectly smooth creamy appearance ; it must then be set aside for an hour or so, and when about to use it for the various purposes described in this work, add lightly three whites of eggs previously whisked into a firm froth. . No. 289.—GERMAN FRYING BATTER. Prepare the batter as in the foregoing number, using for the purpose beer instead of water. No. 290.—NOVEL KINDS OF FRYING BATTER. Most novel kinds of frying batters, never before thought of, may be easily prepared by observing the instructions set forth in No. 288, using, instead of water, any kind of white wine, or any sort of liqueur : such as noyeau, maraschino, kümel, curaçoa, brandy, &c.; only, in order to prevent extravagance, bear in mind that one wineglassful of ally kind of liqueur is sufficient, making up the deficiency of moistening with nearly half a pint of tepid water. No. 291.—ITALIAN FRYING BATTER. To three-quarters of a pound of flour, add two good! tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, a teaspoonful of salt, a little HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER S ASSISTANT. 99 orange-flower water, two yolks of eggs, and about half a pint of French white wine, or cyder; mix vigorously, and finish as in No. 288. No. 292.—YORKSHIRE PUDDING. To one pound of sifted flour placed in a large basin add a teaspoonful of salt and a little grated nutmeg; moisten the salt with a little milk, then add the three whole eggs; mix together with a wooden spoon, adding at intervals rather better than a quart of milk; work the batter vigorously for ten minutes to make it light, and pour it instantly into a sautapan or baking-tin, pre- viously made very hot, with about two ounces of good dripping in it; set the pudding to bake under the meat before the fire about half an hour before it is taken up. Do not forget that it is necessary to turn the Yorkshire pudding out of the dish on to another baking-sheet, for the purpose of baking it on the under side also. When done, cut the pudding into squares, or diamonds, and send to table on a dish, separate from the beef. No. 293.—SUET PUDDING. To one pound of flour add six ounces of chopped suet, two eggs, a little salt and nutmeg; mix briskly with a wooden spoon, adding gradually a quart of milk; and, as soon as thoroughly worked together, pour the mixture into a cloth greased with butter, and floured, previously arranged in a round basin ready to receive the pudding; tie up with string and boil sharply in plenty of water for an hour and a half. When about to dish up the pudding, dip it in cold water, and turn it out on to its dish. No. 294.—VEAL STUFFING, OR SEASONING. 'Io half a pound of bread-crumbs add four ounces of chopped suet, and two whole eggs; season with chopped parsley, thyme, marjoram and shalot (the last three in very small quantities), nutmeg, pepper and salt; mix well together, and use this stuffing as herein directed. 692506 A H 2 100 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 295.—BREAD-CRUMBS. Take any quantity of stale bread crumb; break it up into pieces; place these in a clean cloth or napkin; gather up the four corners tightly in your left hand, while with the right hand take a comparatively loose hold of that part containing the bread, and bruise it thoroughly into crumbs, by rubbing the contents of the napkin to and fro upon the table; and having accom- plished this part of the process, sift the crumbs through a wire sieve, upon a sheet of paper or dish, for use. Note.--A cheaper kind of bread-crumbs which answers well for crumbing fish, may be prepared in manner following: viz.,—bake or dry any pieces of bread (left from table or otherwise) until perfectly hard without colour; pound or bruise them in a mortar, and sift them through a wire sieve. This kind of crumbs, when the bread has been dried of a golden brown, answers well instead of raspings. No. 296.—FRIED BREAD-CRUMBS. To four ounces of bread-crumbs add rather better than an ounce of butter; stir lightly and continuously in a sautapan, with a wooden spoon over a clear fire, until the bread-crumbs assume a very light-brown colour, and then turn them out immediately upon clean paper to free them from grease, and use them for required purposes. No. 297.—SAGE-AND-ONION STUFFING. Chop four large onions, and a dozen sage-leaves, sepa- rately ; parboil these together for two minutes; drain them upon a sieve, and afterwards put them in a stew. pan with about six ounces of bread-crumbs, two ounces of butter, pepper and salt, and set the stuffing to simmer very gently over a slow fire for about twenty minutes, stirring it occasionally; and when the onions are nearly done, use this seasoning for stuffing geese, ducks, or pork. LOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 101 Note.—The foregoing stuffing may also be easily con. verted into sage-and-onion gravy, by adding to it a little brown gravy, or water; in the latter case, a little Harvey or Oude sauce would be an improvement. No. 298.—STUFFING FOR HARES. Cut up the liver, heart, and lights of a hare, and fry them with an equal quantity of ham or bacon, seasoned with mushrooms, shalot, nutmeg, pepper and salt; and when slightly browned, pound altogether with about two ounces of crumb of bread and one whole egg in a mor- tar, until well pulverized into a smooth paste ; and use this seasoning for stuffing hares or rabbits. No. 299.--COLD MARINADE PICKLE. To a quart of water add a pint of vinegar, cloves, mace, peppercorns, and a little salt, thinly sliced onion, carrot, celery, parsley, bay-leaves and thyme, and use this marinade for pickling roebuck, or mutton, or beef, roebuck fashion. No. 300.—MIREPOIX, OR FOUNDATION FOR FLAVOUR- ING SAUCES, OR GAME SOUPS. Take red carrots, onions, celery, parsley-roots, shallots, raw ham or bacon, cloves, mace, and peppercorns; of each relative proportions—according to the quantity required for any given purpose : fry altogether with some butter in a stewpan, stirring occasionally until the ingredients attain a brownish hue; then add a little wine and stock; boil gently for a quarter of an hour, and use this preparation, as herein directed, for game soups, &c. 102 THE COOK S GUIDE, AND CHAPTER VI. APPETISERS FOR BREAKFAST, OR LIGHT SUPPERS, &e On the continent of Europe these are generally deno- minated "hors-d'oeuvres, ” and are mostly eaten before dinner or breakfast, to stimulate the appetite ; hence it is that I have here applied to them the term "appetiser." No. 301,- CURRIED RICE. Boil a pound of rice as indicated in No. 227; fry it in a stewpan or sautapan, with a little fresh butter and a spoonful of Captain White's excellent curry paste; stir lightly together, and serve hot. No. 302.—RICE, TURKISH FASHION. Fry the boiled rice with a little butter, cayenne, and saffron powder; season with a little salt, and throw in a handful of cleaned Smyrna raisins; serve quite hot. No. 303.—RICE, POLISH FASHION. Cut an onion into very thin slices, and fry them in a sautapan with a pat of butter; then add about two ounces of cooked ham cut into shreds, and also the boiled rice; season with a pinch of cayenne pepper, and a spoonful of grated cheese , stir altogether lightly over the fre, and serve hot. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BOTLER'S ASSISTANT. 103 No. 304.—RICE, PIEDMONTESE FASHION. Chop a small onion very fine, and fry it in a sautapan with an ounce of butter; then add half a pound of boiled rice dry, and the pulp of three baked potatoes; season with an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, and a pinch of cayenne and salt; pile up the rice in a hot dish; strew over the surface some cleansed fillets of anchovies or sardines, and send to table quite hot. No. 305.—RICE, MILANESE FASHION. Fry the boiled rice in a sautapan with a piece of butter; season with grated Parmesan or other cheese ; add any remains of dressed fowl, game, tongue, ham, or truffle, prawns, lobster, or any kind of meat or fish most convenient; any or several of these may be used to- gether, and should be cut for the purpose into shreds or squares; season with a little nutmeg, pepper and salt; serve hot. No. 306.—RICE, FLORENTINE FASHION. . Chop and fry an onion with a spoonful of salad-oil or a pat of butter; to this add half a pint of picked shrimps, crayfish, or prawns; add a dessert-spoonful of curry paste or powder; fry altogether for a few minutes, then add the boiled rice and a tablespoonful of grated Par- mesan cheese ; serve quite hot. No. 307.—RICE, SPANISH FASHION. Fry the boiled rice in a sautapan, with a spoonful of salad-oil or an ounce of butter, until it assumes a very light golden colour; then add either a large table- spoonful of Crosse and Blackwell's tomata sauce, or, if in season, a couple of ripe tomatas (previously squeezed to free them from seeds and watery juice); season with Spanish sweet pepper and a little grated cheese ; pile up lightly in a hot dish ; garnish it round with grilled Spanish chorisos, or, if unable to procure these, use in 104 TIE COOK'S GUIDE, AND their stead thin slices of ham, bacon, Bologna, German, or any kind of sausage; or thin strippets of smokeil salmon, or Finnon haddies, or herrings, or pilchards, &c. No. 308.-- RAVIOLIS A LA NAPOLITAINE. First prepare the raviolis as shown in No. 167; and when drained, place them neatly arranged in a dish, with alternate layers of Parmesan cheese ; sprinkle a little dissolved fresh butter over the surface; set the dish in the oven for a quarter of an hour; pour about a gill of rich brown game sauce or gravy to the raviolis, and serve quite hot. No. 309.—ROMAN GNIOCCHI. To half a pint of water add three ounces of fresh butter, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt; set this to boil in a stewpan over the fire, and as soon as the ebullition rises, mix into it six ounces of flour; stir this paste briskly over the fire until it ceases to adhere to the sides of the stewpan; then mix in two whole eggs and the yolks of two others, and also two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese. Having vigorously worked this paste, proceed to roll it out in the shape of very small corks, with flour strewn upon the table; parboil these for ten minutes, and having drained them upon a sieve, finish the gniocchi as directed for raviolis, No. 308. No. 310.—RICE A LA SŒUR NIGHTINGALE. Fry the boiled dry rice with a little fresh butter, nutmeg, pepper and salt; and when quite hot, add the whites of three hard-boiled eggs shred fine, and the white parts of a dried haddock; pile all this up lightly in a hot dish; strew over the cone the yolks of the hard- boiled eggs previously rubbed through a wire sieve, and mixed with a little grated Parmesan cheese; garnish the rice round the base with fried crôutons of bread push in the oven for five minutes—just to slightly colour the surface of a golden hue, and serve imme- diately. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 105 No. 311.—FRIED OYSTERS. Parboil and beard two dozen oysters; dip each se- parately in batter, No. 288; drop them into some hot frying fat.and when done crisp, and drained upon a cloth, dish them up with fried parsley on a folded napkin, and serve hot. Fried muscles are served in the same way. No. 312.—SCOLLOPS OF MEAT, OR OF FISH. Trim neatly into round or oval scollops any kind of cooked poultry, game, meat or fish; dip these in good Allemande sauce, No. 17; place them on a dish over the ice, and when set cold and firm, dip each piece in beaten egg; roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot frying fat; dish them up on a folded napkin, garnish with fried parsley, and serve hot. No. 313.—RIZZOLLETTI. To half a pound of boiled rice add two spoonfuls of good white sauce, three yolks of raw eggs, nutmeg, pep- per and salt; stir this over the fire for five minutes to set the eggs, then put it to cool; and when cold, take a tablespoonful of the preparation, spread it out hollow with a teaspoon, and insert in the hollow a teaspoonful of any kind of croquet meat; envelop it in the rice; egg and bread-crumb the rizzolletti; fry them in hot frying fat, of a light colour; dish them up neatly with fried parsley, and serve hot. No. 314.—RISSOLES. Take about half a pound of trimmings of puff paste; give it three turns or folds; roll it out to the thickness of a new penny piece; place small balls of croquet meat at distances of about two inches from each other; moisten the paste round these with a brush dipped in water; fold the flap of the front part of the paste over the balls; press all round them with the edge of the thumb; cut them out with a fluted round tin cutter, and, as you do 106 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND 80, place the rissoles upon a toured dish: thus having cut out a sufficient number for your purpose, fry them in hot fat; dish them up with fried parsley, on a napkin, and serve hot. No. 315.—CROQUETS OF MEAT, OR FISH. Either chop neatly, or else cut up into very small squares, poultry, game, beef, mutton, lamb, veal, or any kind of firm fish left from a previous day's dinner. If the croquets are to be made of any kind of meat, tongue, ham, mushrooms, or truffles may be added; put what- ever is intended to be used for the rissoles into a sautapan with a small proportion of white sauce, three yolks of eggs, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and a pinch of chopped chives or shalot; stir this over the fire for a few · winutes to set the eggs in the croquet meat; and then spread it out an inch thick upon a plate, and set it to get cold and firm in a cool place; it must next be divided into parts resembling large walnuts, rolled in bread- crumbs to enable you to shape it in the form of corks, pears, or balls; again dipped in beaten egg; rolled smooth in bread-crumbs; placed in a wire frying basket, and fried in hot frying fat of a light colour, and dished on a napkin with fried parsley. No. 316.—FRIED SALMON ROE. Boil the hard roe of a salmon or of any other fish- such as cod, pike, &c., and when done, drain and set it to become cold. It must then be cut in slices with sharp knife, egged and bread-crumbed, fried in butter in a sautapan, and dished up with fried parsley, and eaten with Tartar sauce, No. 38. No. 317.—LOBSTER CROQUETS. Break up a fresh lobster, take all the meat carefully out of the shells, and mince it small; then put the bruised coral and spawn into a sautapan with two spoonfuls of white sauce and three yolks of eggs, a little HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 107 nutmeg, cayenne, and anchovy; stir all this ever the fire with a wooden spoon to set the egg firm in the mixture, and when this is accomplished, turn the croquet meat out on a plate and set it to cool, and finish as di- rected in No. 315. No. 318.—OYSTER CROQUETS. Scald and beard two dozen oysters, cut each oyster into about four or six pieces, and set these aside on a plate. Next, with their liquor make some oyster sauce as in No. 43; reduce the sauce by boiling down over the fire—stirring it the while to give it consistency; add a bit of glaze and three yolks of eggs, a little cay- enne, lemon-juice, and anchovy; and having stirred the sauce again over the fire to set the eggs, add the cut-up oysters; stir these in to mix them with the sauce, and make the oysters hot through, for unless this precaution is duly attended to, the composition is likely to decompose, which circumstance renders it difficult to handle while moulding the croquets; for finishing these, see No. 315. Note.—Croquets may also be prepared with shrimps, prawns, sweetbreads, ox-palates, fat livers, &c. No. 319.—MARROW TOAST A LA VICTORIA. Procure a marrow-bone, or get the butcher to break the bone for you—as this is rather an awkward affair for ladies; cut the marrow into small pieces the size of a filbert, and just parboil them in boiling water with a little salt for one minute; it must then be instantly drained upon a sieve, seasoned with a little chopped parsley, pepper and salt, lemon-juice, and a mere sus- picion of shalot; toss lightly altogether, spread it out upon squares of hot crisp dry toast, and serve imme- diately. Note. --Marrow toast used to be eaten every day at dinner by the Queen at the time when I had the honour of waiting on Her Majesty. 108 THE COOL'S GUIDE, AND No. 320.—MARROW-BONES. Marrow-bones worth dressing in this manner are those only which come out of the centre of a round of beef, or from any part of the legs or shins : they should be sawed into halves crosswise, the thick ends chopped into shape, so as to make them stand straight, the open end of each bone covered with flour-and-water paste : the bones, placed upright in a deep stewpan containing hot water reaching half way up the bones, are to be boiled covered with the stewpan lid for about half an hour; when done, remove the paste, envelop each bone with a napkin or cut paper, and send to table accom- panied by hot crisp dry toast. No. 321.—MARROW PATTIES. Prepare the marrow as shown in No. 319, fill the patties with this, having first added thereto some re- duced fine herbs sauce, No. 74. No. 322.—MARROW CROUSTADES. Take a square-shaped crummy stale half-quartern loaf; pare away all the crust; cut the crumb into slices an inch and a half in thickness, and with a plain round tin cutter an inch and a half in diameter, cut out a dozen circular pieces; these must be cut all round one end by making an incision with the point of a root knife in a ring up to within a quarter of an inch of the edge; these prepared pieces of bread must be fried in hot frying fat, of a light colour, and when done, the incised disk will be easily removed, as also the crumb froin the interior. The crôustades are to be filled with the marrow as prepared in No. 321. No. 323.—PUFF-PASTE PATTIES. Ingredients :—One pound of iour, one pound of butter, the yolk of an egg, the juice of a lemon, a teaspoonful of salt, and about half a pint of water. Process :— Place the flour on the pastry slab, spread HOUSEKEEPER 8 AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 109 it out in the centre so as to form a well, in which place the salt, a small bit of butter, the yolk of egg, the lemon- juice, and two-thirds of the water required to mix the paste; you now spread out the fingers of the right hand and mix the ingredients together gradually with the tips of the fingers, adding a little more water, if neces- sary; when the whole is thoroughly incorporated together, sprinkle a few drops of water on it, and work the sponge to and fro on the slab for two minutes, after which the paste should be elastic—soft and smooth as satin—to the touch. The paste thus far prepared must now be spread out with the bent knuckles of the right hand on the slab; and having pressed the butter in a cloth to extract any milk it may contain, place it in the centre of the paste, and partially spread it by pressing on it with a cloth; the four sides should then be folded over so as entirely to cover the butter ; shake a little flour over and under it; shape the paste in a square form measuring about ten inches each way ; place this on a baking-sheet on the ice, and a sautapan filled with rough ice set upon the paste to keep it cool and firm. About ten minutes after the paste has been thus far prepared, roll it out on the slab with a rolling-pin, and shaking some flour lightly and sparingly over and under the paste to prevent it from sticking either to the rolling-pin or slab, and having rolled the paste out to exactly thirty inches in length, fold it in three equal folds ; press these together by running the rolling-pin over the paste; turn it round and roll it out again the reverse way, in the same manner and length as before; fold it in three equally ; fasten these folds by running the rolling-pin over them with pressure, and set the paste back on the ice to rest for eight or ten minutes ; at the end of this time give two other turns as just described, and having again rested for other ten minutes, it must receive two or three more turns previously to its being cut out for baking. The next thing to be done is, when after the last tuin 110 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND has been given to the paste, and it has been rolled out to the thickness of the sixth of an inch, and has been allowed to rest upon the ice for about three minutes, with a plain or fluted round tin patty cutter, just dipped in hot water, stamp out as many patties as you require; place these on a baking-sheet previously moistened over with a brush dipped in water ; press each down in its place with the fingers, egg over their surfaces, and with another plain tin round cutter less in diameter than the one with which the patties have been stamped out- this also dipped in very hot water,—make a circular incision in the centre of the patty ; push the sheet in a rather brisk oven, and bake them for about twenty minutes; and when done, it will be an easy matter to remove the tops and the crumb from the interior with a small-pointed root knife. Note.—The use of rough ice in making puff paste is absolutely necessary during the summer months only; during cold weather it may be dispensed with. The patties being made according to the foregoing directions, are to be filled just before going to table with any of the different kinds of minces of poultry, game, or other meats, as also with all sorts of shell and other fish, prepared as in Nos. 315, 317, 318, and 321. No. 324.--MUTTON PIES A LA WINDSOR. Cut the lean part of a pound of loin of mutton into very small squares, season this with chopped mush- rooms, parsley, and shalot, pepper and salt, and a little brown sauce or gravy, of any kind most convenient; mix altogether in a basin. Next, line some tartlet or patty-pans with short paste made without sugar; fill these with some of the prepared mince ; cover them over with a top, press and pinch them round the edge; egg them over ; place a stamped ornament on the top of the patties; make a very small hole in the centre for venti. lation, to prevent their bursting while baking; push them in the oven on a baking-sheet for about twenty HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER’H ASSISTANT. 111 minutes; and when done, dish them on a napkin and send to table. Note.—Small patties made as directed above, either with chicken or veal and ham, any kind of game 0r meat; or filled with any of the great variety of prepara- tions for making croquets, they form an agreeable change for the dinner-table, and are also calculated to become favourite accessories to pic-nics or race-course luncheons, as well as welcome additions to the sportsman's basket of prog. No. 325.—SAVOURY TRIFLES. It is necessary for the preparation of these delicious morsels to practise making small, plaited, or square paper cases, about the size of a crown-piece; these are easily enough made by paying attention to the following instructions : viz.,—cut pieces of note-paper into squares measuring three inches on all four sides; double this in two, equally, and fold each side into three reversed plaits; then turn back the outer leaves; turn back the corners equally and correctly; fold the ends ; pass the thumb with pressure on the edges ; open the centre; pinch the corners, and the case will then stand up erect. The round plaited cases are made with circular pieces of paper of about the same dimensions as the former; and after being plaited all round to the depth of an inch and a half, are pushed into a round wooden box, and being forced into it by means of a circular wedge of wood made to fit the hollow tightly, and the edge of the paper being twisted under with the back part of the blade of a small knife, the case will have received its accomplished form. The cases must be slightly oiled inside and out, and filled with any kinds of meat, shell- fish, or other fish, minced or scolloped, and finished with sauce, &c., as directed for the preparation of croquet meats; covered over with fried bread-crumbs, made hot in the oven for a few minutes, dished up vil napkins, and sent to table quite hot. 112 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND · Note.—These trifles form a very fashionable addition to the first course of a dinner. No. 326.—TURKISH PILAU. Roast off a chicken, and when done, remove all the meat from the bones in large neatly-cut slices, and set these aside on a plate with the chicken bones, a bit of ham, thyme, shalot, two cloves, a glass of sherry, and a pint of stock or water, boiled gently for half an hour ; make an essence, which after being strained must be further boiled down to the value of a gill, and kept in reserve. While the fore part of the preparation is going on, wash and parboil for five minutes a pound of rice, drain it free from water, and put it into a stewpan with four ounces of butter, and stir this over a brisk fire until the rice acquires equally in every grain a light- fawn colour; then add a pint and a half of stock or water, cayenne pepper, and the juice extracted from three pennyworth of saffron, by boiling it with a little water; put the lid on the stewpan, and set the rice to boil, or rather simmer, very gently over a slow fire for about three-quarters of an hour; by the end of this time the rice being done, stir it lightly with a fork, to detach the grains from each other, adding a little curry powder; pile the rice up in a dish; place the pieces of fowl kept in reserve, and which have been warmed in the essence—also reserved for that purpose ; crown the whole with a group of stewed Sultana raisins, and serve hot. No. 327.—INDIAN PILAU. Peel and chop six large onions, and put them into a stewpan with four ounces of butter and two Indian mangoes cut into shreds; on the top of these ingredients place the cut members or joints of a chicken previously fried in butter for the purpose, and set the whole to stew very leisurely over a slow fire for about three quarters of an hour. When done, arrange the pieces of chicken on some rice (as in No. 326) lightly piled HOUSEKERPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 113 in a dish, stir the sauce to mix it, and pour it over the pilau, and serve hot. No. 328.—INDIAN POOLOOT. Wash a pound of rice and parboil it; then place the rice in a stewpan with a fowl trussed; moisten with a quart of water or stock, and the juice of six onions extracted by pounding in a mortar, and then wringing the juice with great pressure through a napkin; season with a little salt and the juice of green ginger; in the absence of this, boil a tablespoonful of ground ginger in a gill of water and the juice of a lemon, and strain it through muslin to the fowl. While the fowl is boil- ing, cut four onions in slices and fry them of a light colour, and keep them warm on a plate; fry also a dozen small rashers of streaky bacon, curled round into balls, and fastened in shape with tiny wooden pegs. By this time the fowl will be done; remove it from the stewpan, and set the rice to dry in its stewpan in the screen. Cut up the fowl into members or joints, fry these in the butter the onions were fried in, and then dish up the pooloot in manner following: viz.,—first, pile up the rice in the centre of the dish, then the joints of fowl, next strew the fried onions over the top, strew also some stewed cardamums and peppercorns over this; garnish the dish round its base alternately with slices of hard-boiled eggs and the rolls of fried bacon, and serve hot. No. 329.—YARMOUTH BLOATERS. Cut off the head and tail, split the bloater down the back, spread it out flat, and broil it on both sides over a clear sharp fire; send to table with a pat of fresh butter and a thick captain's biscuit made hot in the oven or before the fire. No. 330.—GRILLED KIPPERED SALMON. Broil the piece of dried salmon; rub it over with a pat of fresh butter and a little cayenne and lemon-juice, and serve hot. 114 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 331.—DRIED HADDOCKS. Dip these in scalding water to enable you to remove the skin; then broil them over a brisk fire, rub them over with fresh butter or a little rich cream, lemon juice and cayenne, and serve hot. No. 332.—PULLED CRISP BREAD. Take a hot loaf, pull out the crumb, and divide it into rocky-looking pieces by pulling it to pieces lightly and quickly with the fingers of both hands; place the pieces of bread on a baking-sheet lined with paper, and bake them over again of a very light brown or fawn colour. To be perfect, the pulled bread must be quite crisp ; it is eaten chiefly with butter and cheese. No. 333.—TOASTED CHEESE. Chedder is allowed to be the richest cheese, and is therefore the best adapted for toasting, from the fact that it is not so liable as other cheeses to become tough and uneatable before it is cold. Cut the cheese in flakes; put it in a small silver or tin dish, made for the purpose, and which may be procured at Adams' Iron- mongery showrooms, Haymarket; set the cheese either in the oven or before the fire to toast or melt, and as soon as it becomes thoroughly dissolved, stir it together with a pat of butter, mignionette pepper, and a little made mustard ; and let it be eaten instantly with dry toast, or pulled bread. No. 334.—CHEESE CANAPEES. Cut some slices of stale bread about the twelfth part of an inch in thickness, stamp these out with a plain tin cutter of round, oval, or heart shape, and, having fried these crôutons in a little clarified butter, of a light colour, dispose some pieces of cheese upon each, with a little mustard spread under the cheese, and seasonell with pepper; push the canapees in a brisk oven a APPETISERS. 0000 Seresco S RBIOSBARE PULLED BREAD. (332.) PRAWNS. (349.) GRILLED KIPPERED SALMON. (339.) OYSTERS. (347.) eorog PICKLED SALMON. (345.) SARDINES. (342.) [To face page 114 of as cutter these i colour, a little mus with peppe. - HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 115 before a clear fire, and as soon as the cheese is melted, serve quite hot. Note.-- Toasted cheese served in this fashion is pre- ferable to any other mode, owing to the fact that no time is lost in seasoning and conveying it to the toast. No. 335.—ANCHOVY CANAPEES. Procure a number of farthing rolls (any baker will make them to order). Cut these rolls into equal halves, scoope out all the crumb, and place the crusts to dry in the screen. Meanwhile chop fine;—hard-boiled eggs in quantity sufficient for the number of canapees to be filled; chop also some tarragon, chervil, and chives; and prepare some fillets or strippets of cleaned an- chovies. Put the chopped eggs and herbs into a basin, season with salad-oil and tarragon vinegar, pepper and salt; mix together, and with this fill up the prepared crusts; ornament them by placing the fillets of an- chovies over their surface in the fashion of lattice-work; dish up the canapees on a napkin. No. 336.—THE PRINCE OF WALES' CANAPEES. Procure the picked tails of fifty fine prawns, the fillets of a dozen anchovies, two mountain gherkins, a cleaned head of white celery, and two good truffles : let all these be cut in small neat squares, put into a basin with enough Prince of Wales' sauce, No. 81, to season the ingredients; mix together, and fill a number of crusts of rolls as shown in No. 335, with this pre- paration ; cover their surface with a thin circular piece of bright aspic jelly, and dish them up on a napkin. Note.—It has just struck me that these delicious canapees which I consider so worthy of the epicure's notice, under the patronage of the illustrious individual whose name I have ventured to borrow for their desig- nation, may be advantageously varied by using in their confection, instead of prawns,—lobster, crab, shrimps, oysters, poultry, game, tongue, ham, turbot, sole, sal I 2 118 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 314.-PICKLED FISH. Any kind of fish left from a previous day's dinner, may be pickled for breakfast, &c., by placing the best pieces in a deep dish with a little of the water in which the fish has been boiled, and adding thereto an equal quantity of vinegar, a sliced onion, some green fennel, pepper and salt: the fish should be turned over fre- quently in the pickle, in order thoroughly to saturate it with the seasoning. No. 345.—PICKLED SALMON. Split the salmon down the backbone, and divide the halves into pieces about two hands in width; place these in an earthen pan, sprinkle each piece with salt, and black peppercorns; pour in vinegar sufficient to cover them; put the lid on and set the pan in the oven to bake the salmon; and when done, place a piece of board or a dish on the pieces of salmon with a weight to press them down in their liquor until cold. When reqnired for use, dish up a piece of salmon with some of the liquor; garnish round with fennel and serve it for dinner, luncheon, or supper. No. 346.-SOUSED MACKEREL. These are pickled whole; they should be drawn and wiped, and treated in all other respects as recommended for salmon. Herrings, pilchards, or sprats are prepared in the same manner. No. 347.-OYSTERS. Oysters should be served in their deep shells with their own liquor, and eaten with a fork; cayenne pepper, quarters of lemon, brown bread and butter, form their most proper accompaniments. ROUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 117 over by making deep incisions across the pieces of game, &c., and rubbing over these some devil's mixture, No. 131, until well saturated; the meat, &c., must then be broiled crisp without being burnt. No. 341.—TUNNY. This is a fish caught only in the Mediterranean, and comes to this country preserved in oil; its flesh some- what resembles veal, and possesses a full sweet savour -something between the flavour of game and salmon. Tunny is served cut in thin slices and dished up in rows, surrounded with chopped parsley and capers, and a little salad-oil. No. 342.—SARDINES. These are a small fish resembling pilchards, and are caught in large shoals off the western coast of France; the largest quantities are preserved with oil in small square tin boxes at a place called Nantes—a very large town near the coast—whence sardines are imported to this country. When the box containing the sardines has been opened with a knife—sold for that purpose by Adams of the Haymarket, St. James's—remove them carefully, and arrange them neatly on a plate; garnish round with capers or chopped parsley ; pour a little fresh salad-oil over them, and serve with thin bread and butter. No. 343.—ANCHOVIES. These are also Mediterranean fish; they are preserved in salt brine, and are much esteemed for their delicious and relishing qualities. They must be washed, wiped with a cloth, the fillets divided dexterously by splitting them down the back with the fingers and thumbs of both hands; the fillets must then be placed in neatly- arranged rows on a plate, garnished round with chopped hard-boiled egg, and salad-oil poured over them. An- chovies served in this manner are ever appreciated at the breakfast-table, or luncheon time ; and are considered rather agreeable accessories at the tea-table. 118 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 344.—PICKLED FISH. Any kind of fish left from a previous day's dinner, may be pickled for breakfast, &c., by placing the best pieces in a deep dish with a little of the water in which the fish has been boiled, and adding thereto an equal quantity of vinegar, a sliced onion, some green fennel, pepper and salt: the fish should be turned over fre- quently in the pickle, in order thoroughly to saturate it with the seasoning. No. 345.—PICKLED SALMON. Split the salmon down the backbone, and divide the halves into pieces about two hands in width; place these in an earthen pan, sprinkle each piece with salt, and black peppercorns; pour in vinegar sufficient to cover them; put the lid on and set the pan in the oven to bake the salmon ; and when done, place a piece of board or a dish on the pieces of salmon with a weight to press them down in their liquor until cold. When required for use, dish up a piece of salmon with some of the liquor; garnish round with fennel and serve it for dinner, luncheon, or supper. No. 346.—SOUSED MACKEREL. These are pickled whole; they should be drawn and wiped, and treated in all other respects as recommended for salmon. Herrings, pilchards, or sprats are prepared in the same manner. No. 347.—OYSTERS. Oysters should be served in their deep shells with their own liquor, and eaten with a fork; cayenne pepper, quarters of lemon, brown bread and butter, form their most proper accompaniments. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND LOTLER'S ASSISTANT. 119 No. 348.—DEVILLED OYSTERS. Open the oysters in their deep shell, season them with a small piece of butter, a little cayenne, salt, and lemon-juice; place them on a gridiron over a brisk fire, and broil them for alvout three minutes. Serve with bread and butter. No. 349.—PRAWNS. Cut one end of a lemon so as to enable it to stand firmly on its base upon a folded napkin ; then stick the proboscis or horn of the prawns into the lemon—in circular rows—commencing at the base of the lemon; and between each row of prawns fill in the vacuum with picked fresh parsley. "Prawns dished up in this manner form a very pretty dish, suitable either for second course, breakfast, or supper. No. 350.—OLIVES. Olives are imported to this country from Spain, Portu- gal, Italy, and France; those grown in the Lucca country are esteemed the most palatable : being perfectly sweet, and free from any strong flavour, they are served for dessert in glasses, with a little of their own liquor in which they are preserved. Olives being first peeled carefully from the stone, are filled in with pounded anchovy, and served with a little oil as an appetiser at the commencement of dinner, or handed round after cheese, the better to relish a glass of old port. No. 351.—RUSSIAN KROMESKYS. Parboil half a pound of fat bacon for twenty minutes, and when quite cold, cut it into very thin shavings an inch and a half square, and use these to envelop as many ordinary-sized cork-shaped croquets, No. 315, as may be required for the occasion ; and set them on a dish in a cold place until it is time to serve them : the kromeskys are then to be separately dipped in batter, No. 288, and 120 THE VON& 8 QUIDE, AND fried in clean hot lard ; and when done crisp, are to be drained on a wire sieve covered with paper, dished up with fried parsley, and served immediately. Note. - Kromeskys are made with all kinds of croquet preparations, whether of meat, fish, or shell-fish. No. 352.—DUTCHI HERRINGS. These are imported from Holland, and are salted in small flat tubs.“ On the tub being first opened, the herrings are apt to emit a rather unpleasant odour, but this does not affect the flavour of the fish; and when they have been washed and soaked in milk for a couple of hours, all unpleasantness is removed. Cut off the heads and tails of the herrings, and divide each into slices about half an inch thick—cut slantwise ; place these in a small dish in their natural position ; garnish round with slices of hard-boiled eggs ; pour some vine garet sauce over them, and serve with the cheese. The vinegaret here alluded to is prepared as follows: viz., to two tablespoonfuls of salad-oil add one of tarragon vinegar, chopped parsley and shalot, pepper and salt, and mix. No. 353.- CROQUETS OF MACARONI. Stir half a pint of any kind of good sauce over the fire until reduced to half its original quantity; then add three yolks of eggs, nutmeg, pepper, and a pinch of chopped shalot, a pinch of sugar and the juice of half a lemon; stir this again over the fire to set the eggs in the sauce, and then add the following ingredients minced small and neatly: viz.,—a handful of boiled Genoa maca- roni, two ounces of roast game, one ounce of lean ham, trufies, mushrooins; incorporate these with the sauce, and when set cold and firm, divide the preparation into equal small portions; mould these in the form of eggs; egg and bread-crumb, and fry them in hot lard; and being dished up with fried parsley, serve hot. FOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 121 No. 354.—ITALIAN POLPETTI. Chop any kind of meat, whether roast or boiled, in sufficient quantity to serve your purpose—in ordinary cases half a pound would be enough; to this add truffle, or mushrooms, tongue, or ham, and two ounces of grated Parmesan or other cheese ; season with shalot, nutmeg, and a dessert-spoonful of Crosse and Black- well's Oude sauce. While the above is in course of preparation, have ready the same sauce as indicated for No. 353; incorporate the before-named ingredients therewith; make it all hot together over the fire, and spread it out on a dish evenly and square, to the thick- ness of a quarter of an inch; and as soon as cold and firm, cut it out with a plain tin round cutter an inch and a half in diameter; push the trimmings together to form other Polpetti; and having egged and bread- crumbed them, fry them in hot lard, and dish them up round some macaroni prepared with cheese and a little cream. No. 355.—GERMAN SCHPEISCHLITZ. Put about three gills of milk to boil with four ounces of butter in a stewpan, and as the milk rises, stir quickly into it six ounces of maize-flour; continue stir- ring the paste over the fire until it ceases to adhere to the sides of the stewpan; it must then be removed from the fire, and three whole eggs, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, a little sugar, and some chopped par- sley are to be vigorously worked in with the paste. Next, poach the schpeischlitz in boiling milk with a little salt, in the form of teaspoon quenelles; they will be done in about ten minutes ; they must be drained immediately, and tossed lightly in some fried bread- crumbs, fried for the purpose of a light colour, and served quite hot, with either grated Gruÿere cheese, or else cinnamon-sugar, separately, to gratify different tastes. Different sorts of preserves are also fit accom- paniments to this dish, which may thus be served 192 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND either as a sweet in the second course, or as a savoury to be handed round between the courses of fish and entrées. No. 356.—GERMAN QUENELLES. Prepare the maize-flour batter as in the foregoing case, adding thereto two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and leaving out the parsley; form the quenelles in tablespoons, introducing small balls of any kind of croquet-meat in their centre, which must be covered in with some of the batter, and neatly and securely fastened down, by smoothing over the surface with a email knife frequently dipped in hot water: the milk or water in which the quenelles are poached must not be allowed to boil at all, as that would cause the quenelles to burst; they must merely simmer gently for about ten minutes; and having ascertained that they are done, drain and set them to cool upon a dish ; and when cold, dip each quenelle separately in some reduced Alle mande sauce; replace them in order on a dish to be left on the ice until they are become firm on the surface; they are then to be egged and bread-crumbed, fried in hot lard, dished on a folded napkin with fried parsley, and served hot. No. 357.—BONNES-BOUCHES. Take about half a pound of any kind of game—say the flesh of a grouse, partridge, rabbit, woodcock, or snipes, larks, &c.; cut this up in small squares, and fry it with an ounce of butter, a little ham, chopped truffle, mushrooms, parsley, and shalot; season with nutmeg, pepper and salt; and when done brown, pound tho- roughly in the mortar with a good spoonful of sauce; rub it through a wire sieve, and place the game purée thus produced in a small stewpan; add the yolks of four eggs, and the four whites whisked into a substan- tial froth; mix lightly, and with this preparation fill a dozen or more paper cases, see No. 325; egg over the tops with a paste-brush dipped in beaten white of egg. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 123 push them in a moderately-heated oven to bake for about twelve minutes, and as soon as done, dish up the bonnes-bouches on a napkin, and serve immediately, for this delicate preparation is materially deteriorated in its lightness by being kept waiting any length of time before it is eaten. No. 358.—ADELAIDE SANDWICHES. Cut up chicken and cooked ham, in the form of small squares or dice, in the proportion of two-thirds of chicken or fowl to one-third of ham. Nest, stir two good tablespoonfuls of sauce with one spoonful of Crosse and Blackwell's curry paste in a stewpan, and when it boils, add the chicken and ham; mix, and with this preparation make the sandwiches in manner following: viz.,—cut some thin slices of stale crumb of bread, stamp out these with a plain round tin cutter the size of a crown-piece, and fry them in clarified butter of a light-golden colour; between two of these crôutons place a thick layer of the preparation; and as this is done, place them in order on a baking-sheet; then put upon the tops a round ball—the size of a small walnut -composed of grated Parmesan cheese and butter in equal parts, and kneaded into a paste; push in the oven (brisk heat) for five minutes, dish up on a napkin, and serve as a second-course savoury dish. Note.—These very delicious appetisers may be also prepared with equal success by using any kind of cooked fish or shell-fish, instead of game, &c. No. 359.—VICTORIA SANDWICHES. Cut thin brown bread and butter, and between two slices place alternate layers of thinly-sliced hard-boiled eggs, small salad or American cress, and cleansed fillets of anchovies; divide these slices into small squares or oblongs, and serve them on a napkin, either for breakfast, luncheon, or supper. THE COOK'S, GUIDE, AND No. 360.—BRETBY SANDWICHES. Cut slices of white bread and butter from French rolls, and between two slices place alternate layers of very thin slices of roast fowl, shred lettuce-leaves, and fillets of anchovies; dish up on a napkin, and serve. No. 361.—IRISH SANDWICHES. Between slices of very thin crisp toast place alternate layers of very thin slices of roast game, shred celery, and Tartar sauce; dish up on a napkin. No. 362.—FISH SANDWICHES. Between slices of brown or white bread and butter place thin scollops of cooked fish of any kind you may happen to have most handy; spread a little Tartar sauce over the pieces of fish, and strew some shred lettuce-leaves over all; press the other slice of bread and butter upon this; cut up the sandwiches in squares; dish up, and serve. Note.—Thin slices of hard-boiled eggs, or sliced Indian or common gherkins may also be added to the other in. gredients. No. 363.—THE PRINCE'S SANDWICH. Roast a pheasant, partridge, or grouse, and when cold, cut all the meat off, and mince it into very small and neatly-cut squares; to this add a third proportion of truffle and tongue cut in the same manner, and mix both in some salmis sauce in which there has been incor- porated a piece of good glaze; set this preparation to become cold and firm upon ice, and then let it be cut out in shapes to suit the slices of bread and butter cut from small milk rolls. No. 364.—SANDWICHES FOR BALL-SUPPERS. Cut a number of thin scollops of either roast fowl, game, or of any kind of cooked fish, or of tunny, lobster, or the tails of picked prawns, or crayfish: FOUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 125 let the scollops of fowl be masked over with white may- onaise sauce, those of game masked with salmis sauce in which has been mixed some aspic jelly; the scollops of fish masked over with mayonaise sauce coloured with chopped tarragon, chervil, and chives; and the scollops of lobster or prawns or crayfish-tails masked with mayonaise sauce coloured with pounded lobster coral. Let the scollops so far prepared be adjusted upon thin crôutons of fried bread of corresponding size and shape; decorate their surface with truffe, white of hard egg, Indian pickle, or the leaves of tarragon or chervil : the details of this sort of decoration are to be stamped out with fancy tin cutters (to be obtained only at Adams' kitchen utensil warerooms in the Haymarket, St. James's). These sandwiches must then be dished up in circular rows; some Italian salad, No. 372, to be placed in the centre, ornamented round the base with aspic jelly. They are then to be served to the ladies as a dainty worthy of their appreciation. No. 365.—ORDINARY SANDWICHES. Between thin slices of bread and butter cut—either from half-quartern brown or French loaves or from rolls, place thin slices of beef, veal and ham, or bacon, mutton, poultry, or game; in any case, the meat should be seasoned with pepper and salt, and English or French mustard ; sliced pickles are sometimes added. When the sandwiches have been pressed with the hand, to make all ingredients adhere together, cut them in squares, dish up on a napkin, and serve. SALADS IN GENERAL. No. 366.—ENGLISH SALAD. Rinse and immediately wipe with a soft cloth the leaves of a ripe coss-lettuce; split them down the stalk, and divide each half leaf into four pieces ; place these in 126 THE COOK & GUIDE, AND a salad-bowl with a few fresh-gathered leaves of green mint; season with one tablespoonful of salad-oil, two of vinegar, a dessert-spoonful of moist sugar, pepper and salt; mix and serve. No. 367.—ANOTHER ENGLISH SALAD. Take equal parts of lettuce, shred celery, water-cress, small salad, beetroot, and spring radishes; thoroughly wash them for a few minutes, and when drained in a cloth, gather up the four corners into the right hand, and shake out all the water. Next, put the salad in a bowl; season with equal proportions of oil and vinegar, two or three chopped green onions, pepper and salt; mix and serve. No. 368.—ANOTHER ENGLISH SALAD. Prepare a salad composed as follows : viz.,—a cab- bage lettuce, a head of endive, shied celery, and slices of beetroot; season with a salad mixture composed as fol- lows : viz.,—place the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs in a basin with a teaspoonful of salt, ditto of made mustard and a little pepper; with the back part of the bowl of a wooden spoon, bruise the yolks and mix in gradually with them a good tablespoonful of double cream; after which further incorporate therewith half a gill of salad- oil and a couple of spoonfuls of vinegar; the sauce finished, use it as directed above. No. 369.—CUCUMBER SALAD. First peel and then cut the cucumber in thin slices; season with equal parts of salad-oil and vinegar, and also equal parts of pepper and salt. The addition of a few very thin slices of raw onion renders raw cucum- ber less indigestible. No. 370.—A FRENCH SALAD. It is not customary in France to mix different kinds of salads in the same bowl. While I am bound to admit that this difference in custom is mainly the result of taste; I humbly submit that, inasmuch as the ad. NOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 127 mixture of small salad, or endive, or American cress, with either kinds of lettuce--independently of the fact that the one kills the flavour of the other -- destroys the cha- racter of a French salad; it also interferes with the variety of salads. Although a French salad should consist of one kind only, it must also be rigorously borne in mind that the salad must never be allowed to soak in water, but merely to be rinsed, and gently wiped or shaken in a cloth (in France they use very light wicker-baskets for this purpose). The lettuce should be split down the stalk, each piece divided in three or four, at most; and the salad being completed, is to be seasoned in manner following: viz.,—to half a gill of salad-oil add a table- spoonful of tarragon vinegar, a small teaspoonful of salt and a little pepper, some coarsely-chopped tarragon, chervil, and chives, or spring onions. The seasoning should be mixed in a separate basin, poured to the salad first before using it, and lightly yet thoroughly mixed. _ Note.—In order to relieve the apparent monotony of French salads, it may be well to observe, that monk's- beard, or dandelion, or endives, or escarolles, are usually mixed with beetroot, also with corn-salad when in season. No. 371.—BEETROOT AND SPANISH ONION SALAD. Bake or boil a Spanish onion whole, and when cold, cut it in slices, and dish them alternately with slices of boiled or baked beetroot; pour over the salad a season- ing composed of two spoonfuls of oil. one of vinegar, some chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Note.—This kind of salad is specially adapted to be eaten with roast or braized meats. No. 372.—ITALIAN SALAD. Italian salads are composed of every variety of raw salads, added to all kinds of meat or fish, and cooked vegetables; and also of tunny, anchovies, olives capers, and pickles. 128 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND Cut two cold potatoes and half a beetroot in slices half an inch thick, punch these out with a long tin vegetable cutter, and put them into a basin with equal quantities of green peas, heads of asparagus, buds of cauliflower or brocoli, small Windsor beans, cut French beans, boiled celery, seakale, Brussels sprouts, cooked haricot beans or lentils. Let it be clearly understood that, although every kind of vegetable named above form component parts of an Italian salad, yet it is not intended that they should all be used for that purpose at one and the same time: due regard must be had to what is in season, without losing sight of the fact that, in all cases, it is essential to study economy and convenience :—thus, for instance, beetroot and pota- toes being at all times easily obtained, let these and some kind of salad in season be mixed in equal propor. tions; to these add any three or four sorts of cooked vegetables you may happen to have, a little shred ham, fowl or game, tunny, anchovies, pickles, or olives; season with vinegar or Tartar sauce, mix lightly together, and serve in a salad-bowl. Note.—These salads are also used for garnishing aspic borders, and cold entrées of fish. No. 373.—SPANISH SALAD. Cut two or three ripe tomatas in slices, and dish them up in a circular row in a salad-bowl or dish ; fill the centre with either small Windsor beans, French beans, garbanças or Spanish peas, pickled button-onions, large green peas, or haricot beans : all, or any of these, to suit convenience and taste, should be gently mixed with some mayonaise sauce: the salad when finished is to be sauced over with vinegaret,—the ordinary seasoning for French salads. No. 374.—RUSSIAN SALAD. This is composed of cooked carrots, beetroot, par. snips, either punched or scooped in shapes, or merely out in neatly-formed squares or oblongs; to these add, HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 125 common gherkins also cut, a few capers, some scraped horseradish, lobster or prawns, or ham, or any kind of meat cut up in small squares ; season with mayonaise, vinegaret, or Tartar sauce; and when dished up either in a bowl, or in an aspic, or cold vegetable border, gar- nish the surface of the salad with very small round- balls of Russian caviare, to be obtained at Crosse and Blackwell's, Soho-square. No. 375.—FLEMISH SALAD. Prepare two Dutch herrings as indicated in No. 352; and to these pieces of herrings add two apples peeled and shred, some beetroot and potatoes cut in squares, a few Brussels sprouts, a few green onions, and picked shrimps, and some curled celery ; season with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt. The vegetables inust be cooked. Note.—Any kind of dried or pickled fish may be sub- stituted for herrings, if preferred. No. 376.—GERMAN SALAD. Cut cold potatoes, Brussels sprouts, seakale, cauli- flower, or brocoli, or any kind of boiled cabbage, in slices; season with oil and vinegar, pepper and salt, and chopped parsley. Beetroot and shred raw apples may also be added. No. 377.—CAZANOVA SALAD. Shred the white stalks of two heads of celery in inch lengths, and put these in a salad-bowl with the whites of three hard-boiled eggs, also shred; season with white mayonaise sauce, and a little shalot; strew over the surface of the salad the yolks of hard eggs pre- viously rubbed through a wire sieve for the purpose. No. 378.—SALAD À LA RACHEL. Prepare the shred celery and eggs as in the foregoing case ; season them with Prince of Wales' sauce, No. 81, pile up lightly in the salad-bowl, garnish round the 5 130 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND base of the salad with thin slices of German sausage or ham; sprinkle over the surface, first, the powdered yolks of eggs, and next, some black truffles shred fine. This has a very charming effect, and is considered a wonderful stimulant. No. 379.—VEGETABLE SALADS. Any kind of cooked cold vegetables serves the pur- pose; either sort may be mixed together in the same salad, and for variety sake, or according to taste, any kind of salad, or meat, or fish, may be added; season with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt, with or without onion or shalot, to suit your fancy. No. 380.—HAMBORO' SALAD. Prepare a salad composed of any kind of lettuce, endive, celery, &c.; to this add a few slices of young potatoes, apple, smoked salmon, and anchovies ; season with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt; and strew lightly over the surface some grated Hamboro' beef; garnish round with slices of hard-boiled eggs. APPETISERS. 20 PATS OF BUTTER. (689.) RADISHES. (367.) OLIVES (350.) GHERKINS. (966.) TUNNY. (341.) ANCHOVIES. (343.) To face page 130. ODBER EEPERS AND BUTLERS ASSISTANT. CHAPTER VII. REMOVES IN GENERAL. Removes are large dishes placed at the top or bottom end of a dinner-table, or served from the side-table : they mostly consist of roast, boiled, braized, or other- wise highly-dressed meats, &c. No. 381.—ROAST SIRLOIN OF BEEF. A piece of sirloin of beef, in order to have any chance of perfection when cooked, should not weigh less than sixteen pounds; it will take about two hours and a half to roast it, before a good fire: it must be kept at a distance of eighteen inches from the grate. Baste frequently, with the fat placed in the dripping-pan; and a quarter of an hour before it is done, shake a little salt and some flour all over it; and when it is removed from the spit, and placed upon its dish, pour over some good gravy, or hot water and a little brown colouring; serve separately, some scraped horseradish, or else some horse- radish sauce, No. 78; and in a separate dish, a piece of Yorkshire pudding, No. 298. No. 382.—ROAST RIBS OF BEEF. A piece of ribs of beef intended for roasting should consist of not less than three or four ribs; the chine- bone and also the upper part of the rib-bones should be removed by sawing them off; the flap-ends fastened K 2 132 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND under neatly with wooden skewers, and equally ba- lanced on the spit. The ribs of beef should then be roasted in much the same manner as indicated for the treatment of sirloin of beef. No. 383.—BOILED ROUND OF BEEF. A round of beef being a large joint, it necessarily follows that it is seldom dressed in small families, where it would be considered an extravagance; although, when due regard is had to practical economy, by using thriftiness and care in turning to account the remains of this or any other large joint, by referring to the almost innumerable forms of made-dishes contained in this work, the amount of extravagance incurred becomes very sensibly diminished ; and, as moreover it is a fact, that a small round cut from a well-fed Scot, or a Durham ox is, occasionally, a most desirable thing, it is essential that it should be well dressed: pray remember, that this requires great care. Procure a round of beef well furnished with rich delicate-looking fat; take out the kernels, and salt it in the usual manner: that is, with clean, cold hands rub in and all over it about four pounds of salt, turning it over in the brine, and rubbing it well with the salt every morning for about ten days: by this time, the round of beef will be ready for use. Next, after removing the round from the brine, fold it into shape by pulling the flap-piece close to the buttock; well fasten it with skewers, and in order to maintain it in proper shape while it is boiling, bind it neatly and tightly all round with a piece of tape called webbing; put it on in a sufficiently large pot in cold water, bearing in mind that it must never be allowed to boil fast, as that always spoils the best salt meat, by rendering it hard and stringy: when the round has boiled very gently for about five hours (ac- cording to the weight), take it up, trim away the soiled parts of the fat, stick in four silver skewers to keep it in shape, cut off the first slice, garnish it round the base HOUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 133 with well-shaped boiled carrots and parsnips; pour some of its liquor coloured with a little browning over it, and serve a suet pudding, No. 299, or dumpling and summer cabbages in separate dishes. A sauce-boat filled with sauce piquante would prove rather a pleasant accompaniment to this brave old English solidity. No. 384.—BOILED AITCH-BONE OF BEEF. Salt the aitch-bone, and boil it with care as directed for the round; and garnish it in the same manner. All other joints of salt beef are to be treated similarly. No. 385.—ROLLED THIN FLANK OF BEEF. Take a piece of thin flank, weighing about eight pounds,—it should be cut as nearly square as possible ; let it be cured in the same manner as pressed beef, No. 393, for three days only; it is then to be removed from the brine, washed and wiped dry, and spread out square and flat by striking it all over with a cutlet-bat, (see Adams' Illustrations). Next, place a pudding of highly-seasoned veal stuffing, No. 294, or Godiveau, No. 190, in the centre, and roll it up tightly in the beef; sew up the side and ends with trussing-needle and string, to keep it in a bolster-like form, while braiz- ing. Place the roll in a braizing-pan (see Adams' Illus- trations), with carrot, onions, celery, a bunch made with parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, six cloves, a bit of mace, and stock, or water sufficient to cover the beef; simmer gently over a slow fire for about four hours; and when done tender, take it up without undoing the string, and put the roll of beef in press between two dishes, with a fourteen-pound weight on the top. When the beef is nearly cold, remove the string, trim it free from any rough or discoloured parts, and set it to warm in a baking dish with a little of its own stock, the greater part of which, after being freed from all grease, and thickened with either a large spoonful of flour or some 134 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND brown thickening, No. 9, worked smooth, boiled, skim. med, and finished by adding a glass of wine and a small pinch of cayenne, will serve to pour over the roll of beef, garnished, when sent to table, round the base with glazed carrots and onions,—see Nos. 107 and 108. No. 386.—BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF A LA BEARNAISE. Prepare the roll of beef as indicated in the foregoing number, and when dished up, garnish round the base with tomatas au gratin (see dressed vegetables); pour some tomata sauce, or else its own gravy—clarified and boiled down to the consistency of half glaze,—round, glaze the beef, and send to table. No. 387.—STEWED RUMP OF BEEF. This piece of beef is considered the best for stewing, or braizing, and should be chosen of fine quality for the purpose, of a deep bright-red colour, rich grained, and well covered with a thick coating of delicate fat. Bone the beef, and after having trimmed it, secure its shape with string, and braize or stew it as directed for rolls of beef; when done and trimmed, garnish it with a Jar- diniere, or with dressed macaroni, or raviolis, or dressed Brussels sprouts, or glazed onions and carrots; pour either piquante sauce, poivrade, or tomata, round its base; glaze the beef, and serve. No. 388.—RIBS OF BEEF A LA MODE. Trim and prepare three short ribs of beef, by inserting in the round fleshy part, long square strippets of bacon seasoned with spice and herbs; and braize them with their trimmings, and carrot, celery, garnished bouquet of parsley, thyme and bay-leaf, salt, an onion stuck with a dozen cloves, and enough stock or water to cover the beef. Set the beef to boil very gently over a slow fire, with live embers on the lid of the braizing-pan; and when it has stewed in this manner for about four hours, take it up HOUSEKEEPEE'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 125 and trim it neatly without waste, and place it on its dish in the hot closet. Next, free the stock from all grease, strain and clarify it, and having boiled it down to the consistency of half-glaze, use this, after garnishing the rump as indicated in No. 385, to pour over it :—it may also be sauced with poivrade, tomata, or piquante sauce. No. 389.—FILLET OF BEEF LARDED. Procure a piece of fillet of beef, such as might be re- moved for the purpose from a piece of sirloin which would serve very well the next day for roasting, and with a sharp knife pare off the sinewy covering of the fillet, and lard the smooth surface with small shreds of fat bacon an inch and a quarter long, and about the six- teenth part of an inch square; these are to be inserted in straight rows, across the fillet, and arranged so that each row dovetails into the other, thus forming a cor- rect series of rows representing raised basket-work. The fillet should now be placed in the braizing-pan upon its drainer, garnished with the trimmings, carrot, celery, garnished bouquet, two onions with three cloves in each, a blade of mace, and a good spoonful of salt, moistened with sufficient stock or water to just barely reach up to the commencement of the larding, and set to braize, either in a brisk oven or over a slow fire with live embers on the lid of the pan; it will take about two hours' very gentle stewing to cook it quite mellow and tender. When the fillet is done, remove it on to a dish, and set it in the oven to dry the larding; glaze it over and dish it up. Strain the liquor, free it from grease, clarify and reduce it to half-glaze, to be served as a sauce; or else incorporate it with any sauce fitted for braized meats ; garnish the fillet round the base with potatoes cut in the form of walnuts or large olives, and fried in butter, alternately placed with groups of green peas, cauliflower, French beans, or else with a Jardinière, or Macédoine of vegetables; pour the sauce round, and serve, 136 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 390.—FILLET OF BEEF A LA NAPOLITAINE. Prepare the fillet as in the foregoing number, and when dished up, garnish it at each end with groups of raviolis No. 167; in each flank or side of the dish place a vase or cup, formed of turnip, and just scalded in salt and water coloured with a few drops of cochineal; these are to be filled with white, fresh-scraped horse- radish ; pour some Neapolitan sauce, No. 59, over the fillet, and serve. No. 391.—FILLET OF BEEF A LA RICHELIEU. Triin the fillet as for larding, but instead of larding the smooth surface as in the former case, it is to be neatly covered with a thin layer of beef-suet, about a quarter of an inch thick, fastened on with string tied all along the fillet at distances of an inch from each other. The fillet is to be braized in all respects as in the foregoing cases, excepting that a glass of wine or brandy should be added. When done, clarify, reduce, and incorporate the stock with some Richelieu sauce No. 63; garnish round the base with quenelles, truffles, mushrooms; pour the sauce over all, and serve quite hot. No. 392.- BRAIZED FILLET OF BEEF A LA MILTON. Braize either a fillet or a rolled piece of thin end of sirloin of beef (previously boned) in the usual manner, and when done, mask the whole of the upper part with a thin coating of very finely-chopped green gherkins which have been mixed into the consistency of a paste by the addition of a piece of good glaze and four raw yolks of eggs: this must be stirred over the fire for a few minutes to partially set the eggs without curdling them, as that would make the preparation crumble, and thus prevent it from adhering to the meat. The surface being smoothed over with a knife dipped in hot water, place on it a neatly-composed design, representing HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 137 a large star, a basket of fruits, &c., consisting of carrots, turnips, French beans, peas, heads of asparagus, &c., pre. viously shaped and boiled for the purpose; garnish the beef round the base with a varied Jardinière, and a border of dessert-spoon quenelles decorated with truffle and tongue; serve poivrade sauce separately in a sauce- boat. Note.—Rumps, rolls, and fillets of beef may also be finished, and served in a greater variety of ways, by sub- stituting any other appropriate garnish or sauce instead of those herein indicated. If preferred, the fillets may be roasted and served with the same garnishes and sauces. No. 393.—PRESSED BEEF. Pressed beef may be prepared with either briskets, or thick or thin flank of beef: the beef must first undergo curing in manner following: viz.,—to six pounds of common salt, add six ounces of saltpetre, half a pound of moist sugar, some bruised bay-leaves, thyme, basil, marjoram, winter savory, half an ounce of cloves, ditto of mace and of peppercorns, and three cloves of garlic ; mix this well together by pounding it in a mortar, and rub it well into the piece of beef intended to be cured or pickled : the beef must remain in the brine or pickle for about twelve days, when it will be ready for use. When about to cook the beef, let it be rolled up and fastened in a cloth by sewing up the opening and other- wise cording it with twine, in the form of a bolster; put it in a large pot with cold water to boil very gently for about four or five hours—according to weight and thickness; and when the beef is done, let it be put in press between two dishes with heavy weights on the top. When the beef has become perfectly cold, take it out of the cloth, trim and glaze it over, garnish with aspic jelly, or merely with picked parsley; and serve either for breakfast, luncheon, dinner, or supper. 138 THE COOK S GUIDE, AND No. 394.—OX-TONGUE. Ox-tongues being sold ready pickled or smoked, it becomes almost needless to give instructions for that part of their preparation; it will suffice to say, that to effect the curing of tongues, it will be only necessary to refer to the instructions for pickling pressed beef. The tongue should be boiled very slowly for about two hours and a half; and when done, plunged into cold water to enable you to remove the furred coating or skin; it should then be placed with the root end up against a piece of board set close to the wall by the dresser; and by sticking a strong fork in the top of the tongue, it will by this means be curbed and held in an erect and ele- gant form, until set quite cold. The tongue must then be trimmed and glazed, if intended to be eaten cold ; and if it is to be served hot, should be wrapped up in a sheet of greased paper and warmed in hot water for a quarter of an hour previously to its being garnished, either with dressed spinach, sprouts, cauliflowers, brocoli, Jardinière, Macédoine, &c.; and served either as a small remove, or flank dish, or even as an entrée ; in which case it may also be garnished with macaroni, braized cabbage, sauce tomata, piquante, poivrade, &c. No. 395.—BRAIZED OX-CHEEK. Braize and press an ox-cheek as directed in No. 143; then cut it into oblong pieces measuring about two and half inches long by one inch and a half wide, trim away the corners and asperities so as to shape them neatly, and place them in order in a sautapan, with some of the stock they have been braized in, and which has been clarified, and boiled down to the consistancy of half- glaze; use the remainder of this half-glaze either as a sauce for the entrée, or else let it be incorporated with the sauce intended for the dish, such as piquante, poir. rade, tomata, Financière, &c. The pieces of ox-cheek, when hot, are to be dished up similarly to cutlets, the centre garnished with one of the variety of dressed HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 139 vegetables recommended to be served with ox-tongues : the sauce poured over and round the scollops, and served either as a remove dish or an entrée, as may best suit convenience. No. 396.—HUNTING BEEF. A round of beef is mostly used for this purpose, and should be cured according to the directions given for curing pressed beef, No 393 : the round should remain in the pickle for a fortnight, in order that it may become thoroughly flavoured with the spices, &c. When the round of beef is sufficiently saturated, tie it up to secure its shape, in the manner directed in No. 383, and boil it either in small beer or ale ; or, if this is con- sidered too extravagant, in water, remembering that it must boil slowly. It will take about five hours' cooking; but the length of time necessarily very much depends on its size and weight. When done, dish up the round with alternate groups of boiled carrots, parsnips, greens, and small dumplings. Note.—Rounds, or any other joint of beef, prepared in the foregoing manner, are more frequently sent to table cold, for breakfast or luncheon, especially at Christmas time, when they are considered a desirable feature on the side-board. No. 397.—ROAST FILLET OF VEAL. Veal, to be in perfection, should if possible be pro- cured fresh killed, as it does not improve by being kept. Take out the bone from a good fat fillet of veal, and with the bat flatten the udder; make a deep incision between the udder and the fillet with a knife, and fill it with veal-stuffing, No. 294; sew it up with small twine, wrap the udder tightly round the fillet, and secure its shape with skewers and twine : spit the fillet in the usual manner, cover it with buttered paper, roast it for about two hours and a half : just before it is done, take off the paper, and after shaking some flour over it from a dredger, baste the fillet with a little fresh 140 THE COOR'S GUIDE, AND butter, and froth it, then dish it up, pour round it some melted butter coloured with a little browning and lemon. juice; garnish round with potato croquets, and serve some boiled bacon with greens, separately. Note.—Fillets of veal roasted, as shown in the fore- going instructions, and dished up, may also be garnished with Jardinières or Macédoines, or a Financière or Tou- louse ragout. Fillets of veal may also be braized after the manner indicated for braizing necks or breasts of veal, and garnished similarly. No. 398.—ROAST NECK OF VEAL. Saw off the scrag end and spine-bone from a neck of veal, shorten the ribs to four inches in length, run a stout iron skewer through the neck of veal lengthwise, and secure it on the spit by tying it with string at each end; roast it before a clear fire for about an hour and a quarter, basting it frequently with dripping from the pan; and when nearly done, froth it over by shaking some flour upon it, and then baste it with a little butter dissolved for the purpose in a spoon; in about ten minutes it must be removed from the fire and dished up; pour some white sauce round it and serve. Note.—Roast neck of veal may also be served in all respects as directed for fillet of veal. No. 399.—BRAIZED NECK OF VEAL Trim a neck of veal as in the preceding number, place it in a braizing-pan on a bed of sliced carrot, onions, celery, and a garnished bouquet; moisten with enough stock or water, just barely to cover the veal, and set it to stew or braize over a slow fire for about an hour and three-quarters; then remove the neck of veal on to a dish; strain and free its stock from all grease, boil it down to half-glaze, and use this to baste the veal in the oven until it assumes a bright glossy surface. The neck of veal must now be dished up and garnished with stewed peas, or with glazed onions and carrots; HOUSEKEEPER’AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 141 and the remainder of its glaze must be mixed with some brown sauce, and poured neatly round the base. Note.- A braized neck of veal may also be garnished with cauliflowers or brocoli, or with asparagus, peas, with Jardiniere or Macédoine, and sauced round with Béchamel; it may be garnished with plain boiled rice, and some curry sauce poured over it. No. 400.—NECK OF VEAL LARDED. Trim a neck of veal after the manner indicated in the foregoing articles; then with a sharp knife pare off the skin and sinew which cover the fillet part of the neck, leaving the ribs well and straightly covered with their fat; the bared fillet must then be closely larded, and braized according to the precepts for the treatment of a fricandeau; when done, remove the neck of veal from the braizing-pan on a baking-dish or sautapan, and after having first strained its liquor or stock, freed it from grease, and boiled it down to half-glaze, pour it over the veal, and use it to baste it frequently in the oven, in order to give the larding a bright golden aspect, and also to cause it to absorb the whole of the stock, which will tend to give it savour and mellow- ness: it must now be dished up, and garnished with any of the dressed vegetables or ragouts recommended in the preceding case. No. 401.—NOIX OR CUSHION OF VEAL. The noix or cushion of veal is that part of the leg to which the udder adheres. In order to separate it from the round or fillet, the leg should be placed on the table with the knuckle from you, then with the left hand take hold of the upper part of the fillet of veal, while with the right hand insert the point of a knife into the separation which divides the noix or cushion from the under part of the fillet; cut the noix away, following the separation right through round to the knuckle, terminating at the left under the udder, which must be 142 THE COUK 8 GUIDE, AND allowed to remain in its close adherence to the cushion. Pare off the sinewy parts from that of the cushion which is covered with skin, leaving the udder whole; and when the fleshy part is laid bare, in a semicircular form, lard this part neatly and closely with fat bacon in the usual way; and braize the cushion in exactly the same manner as described for fricandeau. When done, dish it up with any of the garnishes prescribed in the preceding cases. No. 402.—CUSHION OF VEAL A LA ST. GEORGE. Prepare a noix or cushion of veal as directed in the foregoing number, and when done, and brightly glazed in the oven, let it be dished up, and garnished with alternate groups of mushrooms, truffles, and small que- nelles made from the trimmings of the veal ; pour some Financière sauce over and round, and serve hot. No. 403.—CUSHION OF VEAL A LA ST. CLOUD. Trim a cushion of veal, and instead of larding it, as recommended in the foregoing numbers, make inden- tures with a wooden skewer over the trimmed surface of the cushion, and into these holes insert hobnail. like-shaped pieces of black truffle, or red tongue,—or of both alternated ; cover the cushion with very thin layers of fat bacon, and having placed it in a frican- deau-pan upon a bed of sliced carrot, onions, celery, and garnished bouquet or faggot of herbs, moisten with white stock or water, and braize it gently for about three hours; when done, remove the thin layers of fat bacon, dish it up, garnish with decorated quenelles, and white cocks' combs ; pour some Allemande sauce over and round the base, and serve. No. 404.-- ROAST LOIN OF VEAL. Order a best end loin of veal, weighing about eight pounds, with a fair proportion of the skirt on; trim it square, and placing some veal-stuffing in an incision made for that purpose in the flap or skirt, wrap it HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 143 round the kidney fat so as to secure it tightly with skewers and string; envelope the loin in well-greased sheets of clean paper secured with string; spit it, and roast it before a moderate fire for about two hours; when done, dish it up, and pour either some clear brown gravy, or some melted butter sauce coloured with a few spoonfuls of mushroom catsup over it, and serve separately- either a ham, or tongue, Bath chap, or some bacon garnished with some sort of vegetable. No. 405.—LOIN OF VEAL BRAIZED. Trim, stuff, and truss a loin of veal as described in the foregoing case ; place it on a bed of sliced vegetables in a braizing-pan, cover it with a fitting piece of thick white paper—previously rubbed over with butter ; moisten with sufficient stock or water to just reach the edge of the surface of the veal, and set it to braize in the oven, or else very gently over a slow fire with live embers on the lid of the pan, taking due care to baste it frequently with its own liquor during the time it is being braized, in order that the meat, by con. tinuously absorbing the stock impregnated with the flavour of the vegetables and herbs, may thus become full of savour and mellow. When the loin of veal has thus stewed or braized for about three hours, let it be drained and placed on a baking-dish, and after strain- ing and boiling down its own liquor to the consistency of half-glaze, add this to it, and set it in the oven,- continuously basting it with its glaze until it presents a bright, light glossy aspect: the loin of veal must then be dished up, garnished round with tomatas, or mush- rooms au gratin, or with glazed onions and carrots : a Jardinière, or a Macédoine; with Toulouse, Financière, Chipolata, or Milanese ragouts; or with any kind of dressed vegetable; or with macaroni or potato croquets ; and any of the following sauces may be used to sur- round it: viz.,- Allemande, Béchamel, Tomata, Italian, Madeira, Financière. 144 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 406.—LOIN OF VEAL A LA CREME. Prepare and roast a loin of veal as directed in No. 404; and, about twenty minutes before it is done, put a clean dish under it, and baste it all over continuously with a pint of cream : this, as the veal continues to turn round before the fire, will cause it to assume a bright, light-brownish crust of a very delicate and delicious aspect; and which, while removing the veal from its spit on to its dish, must be carefully handled so as not to be knocked off ; let the brown deposit which has fallen from the veal during the time it has been basted with cream be detached from the dish which has duly received it, with some white mushroom juice, or water; add this to some white sauce and a little cream, and pour it round the veal. Note.—It is hardly necessary to say that all veal joints may be advantageously dressed in this fashion. No. 407.—ROAST BREAST OF VEAL. Take a breast, or part of a breast of veal, and remove the tendons without cutting through the veal; and, in their room, place a rolled pudding composed of veal stuffing, which must be secured by being sewn up with string, or merely fastened in with skewers. Spit the breast of veal, and roast it, if weighing eight pounds, about an hour and three-quarters; and when done, dish it up, pour over it some butter sauce mixed with either a little catsup or browning, and serve. No. 408.—ROLLED BREAST OF VEAL. Square the breast of veal by cutting off the rough ends in a straight line, and remove all the bones and tendons. Next, place a long rolled pudding of veal stuffing in the centre of the veal; roll it up in the form of a bolster; secure its shape by cording it neatly round with string, and set it to braize in the usual way in a braizing-pan ; this will take about three hours; and HOUSEK LEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 145 when done, take it up, and having finished glazing it, as directed in the foregoing cases, place it on its dish, garnish it with any of the ragouts mentioned as fit accompaniments for necks or loins of veal, and send to table. No. 409.—BREAST OF VEAL A LA PRINTANIERE. Let the breast of veal be prepared and braized as described in the foregoing number; and when done and dished up, garnish it round with alternate groups of glazed young carrots, turnips, onions, young potatoes, and green peas; sauce it round with its own glaze, and serve. No. 410.--BREAST OF TEAL A LA CHIPOLATA. Dress and dish up a breast of veal as in the preceding number; glaze and garnish it with a ragout à la Chipo- lata, No. 123, and serve. Note.- As Chipolata ragout is rather complicated and somewhat expensive, it is as well to remark that what is to be used, and what to be omitted, becomes purely a matter of convenience. No. 411.—BOILED LEG OF MUTTON. LEG OF MUTTON. l'lace a trimmed leg of mutton in a pot of sufficient capacity to hold about six gallons ; add enough cold water to let it swim, and set it to boil; after skimming 146 THE COOK S GUIDE, AND it well, add a handful of salt, a few carrots, turnips, and a couple of parsnips; and when the leg of mutton has boiled about two hours and a half, it will be done. It should then be dished up with a cut paper ruffle on the shank-bone, garnished with mashed turnips mixed with a spoonful of flour, a pat of butter, a gill of cream, nutmeg, pepper and salt; mould the mashed turnips in the shape of large eggs with two tablespoons—and place them in a circular row round the dish, introducing in between each spoonful of turnip a well-turned piece of boiled carrot : pour some gravy under, and serve caper sauce, separately. No. 412.—BRAIZED LEG OF MUTTON. Trim a leg of mutton, interlard it with strippets of ham, or bacon, cut a quarter of an inch square, and about six inches long—seasoned with aromatic herbs, pepper and salt; pare off any ends of bacon which may happen to protrude, and place the leg of mutton in a braizing-pan with carrots, turnips, celery, onions, garnished faggot of parsley, cloves, mace, and a few peppercorns : moisten with sufficient stock or water to cover the mutton, and set it to simmer very gently over a slow fire, or in the oven for about three hours taking care to baste it frequently with its own liquor. When done, drained, and placed in a baking-dish, add the stock boiled down, and set in the oven to be glazed -by basting it often with its own essence; and as soon as it presents a bright, glossy aspect, dish it up with glazed carrots and onions, or a richly-furnished Jardiniere; sauce over with the remainder of its glaze added to some brown sauce, and serve. No. 413.—LEG OF MUTTON A LA NAPOLITAINE. Braize a leg of mutton as in the foregoing number; and, instead of garnishing it with vegetables, use dither raviolis No. 167, or well-dressed macaroni for HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 147 that purpose ; pour over the leg of mutton and round the base of the macaroni some Neapolitan sauce, No.59, and serve scraped horseradish, separately. No. 414.—LEG OF MUTTON A LA PROVENCALE. Remove the thighbone from a leg of mutton, com- mencing at the thick end. leaving the leg-end bone in its place; fill the cavity thus left with a preparation consisting of—chopped mushrooms, parsley, shalot, ham, a clove of garlic, nutmeg, pepper, grated lemon-peel, and salt; stew these with a pat of butter for a few minutes over the fire, and then pound them with two ounces of bread-crumb, four ounces of chopped lean raw meat; add four raw yolks of eggs----pound all thoroughly : fasten the stuffing in by sewing up the opening of the leg, and then place it in a braizing-pan with a gill of oil, two bay-leaves, thyme, marjoram, and two cloves of garlic ; fry the mutton on all sides over the fire until it assumes a uniform brown colour; then moisten with stock or water sufficient to cover the mutton, and set it to braize gently for three hours, basting it often with its own liquor. When done, remove the leg of mutton on to a baking-dish; strain, remove all grease and boil down its stock, pour it to the mutton, and set it in the oven to finish glazing by fre- quently basting it with the glaze; and when this is accomplished, dish up the leg of mutton, pour some Provençale sauce, No. 69, mixed with the remainder of the glaze over the mutton; garnish with mushrooms an gratin, and serve. No. 415.--LEG OF MUTTON A LA BRETONNE. Braize and dish up a leg of mutton, as directed in the foregoing case, and garnish with haricot beans dressed with Brêtonne sauce, No. 56; pour the remainder of the glaze over the mutton, and serve. 1. 3 148 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 416.—LEG OF MUTTON A LA SOUBISE. Prepare a leg of mutton as shown in No. 412, pour some Soubise sauce, No. 58, on the centre of the dish, place the leg of mutton thereon, garnish it round with potato croquets, pour the remainder of the glaze on the mutton, and serve. No. 417.—BOILED NECK OF MUTTON. Saw off the scrag-end and chine-bone of a neck of mut- ton, and shorten the ribs to about four inches in length; next, pare off the excess of fat to about half an inch in thickness, and boil the neck in plenty of water and a little salt, with three carrots and as many turnips; and when done, dish it up, surrounded with spoonfuls of mashed turnips, and the boiled carrots cut in neat shapes and placed between the mashed turnips; pour some gravy over the mutton, and serve caper sauce, separately. No. 418. - NECK OF MUTTON A L'IRLANDAISE. Trim a neck of mutton as in the preceding number, and put it to braize in a stewpan with carrot, onion, celery, and a garnished bouquet of parsley; moisten with stock or water, and set this to simmer very slowly over a moderate fire for about an hour and a half; and while the mutton is braizing, put a dozen peeled pota. toes and six onions in a stewpan, with a pat of butter and some pepper and salt; moisten with a quart of stock or water, and set these to boil sharply over the lire, taking care that the potatoes are kept as whole as possible. When the neck of mutton is done quite ten der, dish it up; place the potatoes and onions neatly round it; sauce it over with the reduced stock from the mutton, and serve. No. 419.—NECK OF MUTTON ROEBUCK FASHION. 'Trim a neck of mutton as for braizing, and afterward with a sharp knife lay the fillet or fleshy part cuire ! FOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 149 bare by removing its covering of fat and sinew; the bare pail must then be closely larded with bacon, and pickled in marinade for at least two days (see No. 299). When sufficiently saturated with the marinade, it must be braized as directed for legs of mutton; and when done, glazed and dished up, it is to be garnished with potatoes turned in the form of large olives and fried in butter, of a light colour ; pour some chêvreuil sauce, No. 29, over the neck of mutton, and serve hot. No. 420.—NECK OF MUTTON A LA SOUBISE. Braize a larded neck of mutton (without having pickled it) as in the preceding case, and when done, dish it up on some thick Soubise sauce, No. 58; garnish it round with either fried potatoes, or potato croquets; pour its own glaze over the neck of mutton, and serve. No. 421.—NECK OF MUTTON À L'ALLEMANDE. Prepare and braize a neck of mutton as described in No. 419, and when done and glazed, dish it up; garnish it round with German quenelles, No. 356, and stewed prunes; pour some chêvreuil sauce, No. 29, over the mutton, and serve. No. 422.- NECK OF MUTTON WITH PUREE OF SORREL. Trim a neck of mutton and lard it, or not--for this pur- pose; if the neck of mutton is intended to be dressed plain, let it be neatly trimmed as for boiling, braized as recommended in No. 418, and when dished up, on a purée of sorrel. No. 119 a., previously placed in the centre of the dish, garnish it round with a border of glazed spring-carrots; pour its reduced stock over the neck of mutton, and serve. Note.- Braized necks of mutton, whether larded or plain, may also be served, either with any kind of purée of vegetables, or, any vegetable garnish, such as glazed onions, turnips, Jardinière, &c., dressed tomatas, &c. 150 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 423.—SHEEP'S HEADS GALLIMAUFRIED. Procure the head and pluck of a fresh-killed sheep; split the head into halves, remove the brains; steep the whole in water, and wash them thoroughly. Next, place the head, lights, heart, and liver in a stewpan with carrot, onion, celery, garnished faggot of parsley, six cloves, mace, a few Jamaica peppercorns, and a small handful of salt; moisten with sufficient common broth or water to make the contents of the stewpan swim, and then set the whole to braize slowly over the fire for about an hour and a half. When the head, &c., are done, take them up carefully on a dish, strain the broth, and after having removed all grease, boil down one-half to thin glaze, and with the remainder make some brown sauce. The halves of the head should be trimmed, seasoned with chopped parsley and shalot, pepper and salt, egged over and bread crumbed, and then, after having sprinkled some clarified butter over the surface of the cheek only, should be again bread-crumbed and placed on a buttered sautapan for the purpose of being baked of a golden-brown colour. The liver, lights, and heart must be chopped up into fine mince, and when the sauce has been boiled down to its proper con- sistency, add the mince, some chopped parsley, mush- rooms, and shalots, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and a dessert-spoonful of Crosse and Blackwell's Oude sauce; stir well together over the fire until quite hot, and then pile up the mince in the centre of the dish; place the pieces of head upon this, garnish the base with thin strippets of frizzled bacon, and serve. Note.- The brains—after being cleaned should be boiled in vinegar and water, with a little salt, for a few minutes, cut in slices, and placed between the halves of the head. No. 424.—BOAST HAUNCH OF MUTTON. Procure, if possible, a haunch of four-year-old South- down or Scotch mutton. Weather permitting, it should HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 151 have hung in a cool larder for about ten days : let it be trimined by removing the epidermis or transparent skin which covers the fat; saw off the shank-bone, LAUNCH OF BUTTUX. cover it with two large sheets of well-greased paper, place it in a cradle-spit, and roast it before a good fire for about two hours and a quarter : the joint must be kept at a distance of about eighteen inches from the fire ; it must be basted with dripping every five minutes; and about ten minutes before being taken up, first remove the paper which covers it, dredge it all over with flour, shake a little salt over the surface, and with a large spoon pierced with holes, drop some dissolved butter over it, in order to give it that deliciously brown frothy aspect so well appreciated by all lovers of a well- roasted English joint. Note. - Irish, Welsh, and Devonshire mutton also possess great claims to the notice of epicures; and when obtained in perfection, are worthy of a wide-spread re- putation. No. 425.—ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON. In the selection of a saddle or, indeed, of any other joint of mutton, follow the instructions given in the pre- ceding article; and, as regards the roasting, take the same precautions, bearing in mind, that about an hour and a half will suffice to roast a saddle weighing about ten pounds. Note.—Great diversity of opinion exists as to which is 152 TIE COOK'S GUIDE, AND positively the best method of carving a saddle of mutton: and so determinately convinced are both advocates on this knotty question, that with all my experience in SADDLE OF MUTTON. these matters, I am loth to pronounce a verdict ;—not from any fear of finding myself in a minority on either side, for I believe that in this case, at least, numbers are equally balanced; but for this reason that I well know that nobody is ever convinced by controversy.- Notwithstanding all that precedes, I must just venture most humbly to explain why I advocate the transverse, —instead of the long-or parallel cut. Everybody may easily acquaint himself with the fact that the filaments or fibres of the grain of the meat run parallel with the spine-bone of a saddle of mutton; and, consequently, that with the elongated slice so cut,—when divided on the plate into morsels for mastication,—the teeth must necessarily meet with a greater amount of resistance when they have to cut through a mass of close fibres, which in this form are presented for their incision, than would be the case if each side of the saddle were to be cut out in slanting slices—cutlet-wise, by making an incision along the spine-bone, and then cutting the slices from that line—crosswise, through the sides. By this means you obtain a slice of mutton with its fair accompaniment of delicate skirt fat; and from the very fact that the fibres are being severed crosswise, the teeth have only to press lightly in order to devide the morsel, and are consequently relieved from much labour. What is infinitely of more consequence, the meat by this simple and much more economical mode of carving, has HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 153 a better chance of eating tender; and besides that, every guest is served with fairness. No. 426.- BOILED SHOULDER OF MUTTON. Salt a shoulder of mutton, and turn it over in its brine every morning for about six days; at the expira- tion of this time, it will be fit to dress : it must be put on to boil in a pot with cold water, a carrot, onion, celery, and a garnished bouquet of parsley, and boiled very gently tor about an hour and three-quarters, and when done, dished up with a border of boiled carrots and parsnips, and smothered with onion sauce, No. 55. No. 427.—STUFFED SHOULDER OF MUTTON. Saw off the stump shank from a shoulder of mutton ; remove the blade-bone with care—so as not to disturb the outer shape of the shoulder by making a hole through it. Fill the cavity occasioned by the removal of the blade-bone with veal stuffing No. 294; sew up the opening by gathering up the sides of the meat with trussing-needle and string, drawing them up—something like a purse—and fastening the ends so as to secure it in a plump shape or form. Next, let the shoulder of mutton be either nicely roasted or braized ; and when dished up, pour over it some piquante sauce, No. 22, and serve hot. Note.—Shoulders of mutton prepared after this fashion may also be served as directed in the variety of forjus for dressing legs of mutton. No. 428.—LOINS OF MUTTON. Loins of mutton subjected to the same treatment of dressing as those indicated for necks of mutton may be served according to similar fashions, and also garnished with the same sauces and accompaniments as are record mended in all those cases. 154 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 429.—SADDLE OF MUTTON A LA POLONAISE. This is generally prepared from the remains of a saddle of mutton, left from the joint which has been dressed for a previous day's dinner, and becomes there- fore a most economical dish, a circumstance which by no means detracts from its recommendation to the notice of every epicure. Cut all the meat from the saddle of mut- ton, and mince it fine; put this into a stewpan with enough brown sauce to moisten it; season with chopped parsley and shalot, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and a spoon- ful of Oude sauce; stir over the fire for about ten minutes until quite hot; and while this is going on, prepare the pulp of a dozen baked potatoes mixed with two ounces of butter, four yolks of eggs, nutmeg, pepper and salt ; stir this over the fire until it ceases to adhere to the stew. pan, and thus becomes a rather firm kind of paste; roll it with flour on the table, and with it form an orna- mental sort of wall on the dish round the saddle-of-mutton bone--so as to give it the appearance of its original shape; place the mince in the centre; strew some rasp- ings, or fried bread-crumbs all over the top; egg over the potato wall, and put it in a sharp oven to bake it of a light-brown colour; when done, place six or eight deli- cately-poached eggs on the surface; pour some gravy or poivrade sauce round the base, and serve. Note.—Legs, loins, or shoulders of mutton may be turned to the same account, giving each its original shape by using the potato-paste for that purpose. No. 430.—ROAST FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. Saw off the shank-bone, and also the chine-bone- along the fillet part of the neck; and with a saw par- tially sever the rib-bones, midway between the edge of the breast and the spine-bone. Cover the fore-quarter of lamb with buttered paper, and secure it in an even position on the spit; roast it before a brisk fire for about an hour and a half, and about ten minutes before taking HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 105 it up, dredge it with four and a little salt, and baste it over with a little dissolved butter, to froth and brown it of an appetising colour. It must then be dished up with a cut-paper ruffle on the shank-bone, gravy must be poured under it, and mint sauce served separately. Note.—Chop a double handful of clean mint-leaves, and mix them in a sauce-boat, with half a gill of vinegar and an ounce of moist sugar. No. 431.—RIBS OR TARGET OF LAMB. Ribs, or as it is sometimes called, target of lamb, consists of the breast and neck joints left adhering together in their natural position. The chine-bone should be sawed off, and the flat bones removed from the meaty part of the neck; the ribs are to be partially sawed through, so that when the lamb is cooked, it becomes an easy matter to separate the breast from the neck or superior rib-bones. Cover the ribs of lamb with buttered paper ; run two iron skewers through it crosswise, and having secured it in an even position on the spit, roast it before a brisk fire for about an hour, according to the instructions contained in the foregoing number. Note.- When roast lamb is intended to be eaten cold, the addition of chopped parsley, and a little pepper and salt sprinkled over it after it is removed from the fire, gives it a more inviting aspect. No. 432.—BOILED LEG OF LAMB. Select a leg of a fresh-killed lamb, well furnished with white fat, boil it in water with a tablespoonful of salt, carrot, celery, onion and turnip ; it will be done in about an hour and a quarter, and should be dished up sur- rounded either with dressed spinach, and the addition of spring carrots and turnips, or else with the latter only, or with cauliflowers; a little white sauce, or maître-d'hôtel sauce, should be poured over the lamb, and a cut-paper ruffle placed on the shank-bone. 156 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND Note.- Legs of lamb may also be dressed in every variety of form recommended for the treatment of legs of mutton. No. 433.—SHOULDER OF LAMB GRILLED. When it happens that you have a cold shoulder, or part of a shoulder of lamb, left from a previous day's dinner, take a knife and score it twice crosswise, by cut- ting incisions down to the bone; season with pepper and salt, grill it over a clear fire, turning it frequently for about twenty minutes, and when done, dish it up with piquante sauce. No. 434.—LAMB'S HEAD. See Sheep's Head, No. 423. No. 435.—SHOULDER OF LAMB A LA MONTMORENCY. Saw off the nob, or knuckle-bone, from the shank of a shoulder of lamb; remove the blade-bones without cut- ting through the meat or skin which covers it; fill the cavity thus occasioned with well-seasoned forcemeat; gather up the edges of the shoulder by means of a trussing-needle and small twine, by drawing them up in purse-like fashion, so as to securely hold the force- meat within the cavity of the shoulder. Next, with the point of a small knife make a circular incision all round the inner part of the plump cushion, to the depth of the eighth of an inch, and then dexterously shave off the superficial skin which covers the inner part of the circle thus traced out : this bared part of the shoulder is to be closely and neatly larded in the usual way, and braized as directed for necks of mutton larded; it is also to be finished in the same manner, and when dished up, should be garnished with a Toulouse ragout, No. 105. Note.--Shoulders of lamb, either larded or not, pre- pared as above, may also be garnished as indicated for legs and necks of mutton. HOUSEK EEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 157 No. 436.—SADDLE OF LAMB BRAIZED. For this purpose it is necessary to bone, that is to say, to remove all the bones from the saddle of lamb ; and when this has been effected without injury to the upper part of the skin of the saddle, let it be filled in with forcemeat, or Godiveau, No. 190 : this is to be securely fastened in, by neatly and carefully rolling up the forced saddle of lamb in a napkin spread with butter, and then again, by tightly securing the ends with tied string. The saddle thus far prepared, must be braized in white stock, with the usual complement of stock vegetables, for about an hour and a half; and when lone, and taken out of the braize, must be left in the napkin, and pressed between two dishes with a fourteen- pound weight on the top dish : the saddle must be allowed to remain in the cold until set quite firm; it may then be removed from the napkin, slightly trimmed, made hot in a little of the stock without boiling (as that might deform it), placed on its dish, garnished round with four lamb's-breads larded, and four decorated quenelles, placed alternately, some truffles, cock's combs, and button mushrooms; glaze the saddle, pour some Allemande sauce round the base, and serve. Note.—Saddles of lamb prepared in this fashion may also be garnished with any kind of dressed vegetables. No. 437.—SADDLE OF LAMB A LA VILLEROI. Prepare a saddle of lamb as directed in the foregoing case; and when pressed, cold, and trimmed, place it on a buttered baking-sheet, mask it over with a coating of stiff Allemande sauce, and, as soon as this is set per- fectly cold and firm, egg it over with a brush dipped in beaten egg; crumb over the surface with some fried bread-crunıbs of a very light colour, mixed with a spoonful of grated Parmesan cheese ; and about half an hour before dinner-time, set the saddle in a rather slow even to get warm, taking care to prevent it from gaining 158 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND a dark colour. When done, garnish it on its dish. with any of the ragouts recommended in the preceding number. No. 438.—SCOTCH HAGGIS. Procure a lamb's paunch well cleansed, and per- fectly white--any butcher will oblige you with it. Next, parboil a lamb's pluck in water with salt and pepper, until done, and chop it fine. Place a dozen chopped onions with four ounces of butter in a stewpan, and fry these over a slow fire of a very light colour; to these add the chopped liver, lights, &c., one pound of oatmeal, one pound of chopped beef-suet, some chopped thyme and parsley, nutmeg, pepper and salt; stir altogether, and with this fill up the lamb's paunch, which must have been previously pressed in a cloth to absorb all watery moisture. Carefully fasten any holes that may exist in the paunch, by tying them up with string, and then tie up the Haggis in a cloth much in the same manner as you would a pudding, and boil it in a large stewpan with enough stock or water to cover it; the haggis will require about three hours 'very gentle boiling to cook it; when done, take it carefully out of the pot, and gently remove it from the napkin on to its dish, and serve it while it is hot, and in perfection. No. 439.—BOILED LEG OF PORK. Saw off the shank-bone from a pickled leg of dairy- fed pork, and put it on to boil in cold water, with the carrots, turnips, and parsnips intended to be served with it, and also a quart of split peas previously washed and soaked over night for the purpose ; let the peas be tied up loosely in a napkin, and put in the pot to boil with the pork. A leg of pork weighing about six pounds would require about two hours' gentle boil ing. When the pork is done, take it up on to its disk, garnish it round with the carrots, turnips, and parsnips, cut into neat shapes; pour some gravy over the pork, and serve the peas-pudding on a separate dish. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 159 Note. If the peas for the pudding are put on to boil at the same time as the pork, they will be done in about an hour and a half. They are then to be taken out of the napkin, rubbed through a wire sieve or colander, mixed with a pat of butter, three yolks of eggs, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and tied up as any other pudding, in a napkin previously well buttered and floured ; and again placed in the pot with the pork, to continue boiling until the pork is done. No. 440.—LEG OF PORK GERMAN FASHION. Pickle a log of pork with four ounces of saltpetre, ditto of moist sugar, half a pint of vinegar, cloves, mace, sweet basil, and marjoram, thyme and bay-leaves, and the usual quantity of common salt, and allow it to remain in this pickle for about ten days : boil the leg of pork as directed in the foregoing article, and when done, dish it up with dressed sauerkraut, or stewed red cabbage; surround it with a border of glazed carrots and onions, pour some poivrade sauce over and round the pork, and serve. No. 441.—ROAST LEG OF PORK. Make a wide incision just below the knuckle of a leg of pork—between the skin and flesh--and fill this with sage-and-onion stuffing, No. 297; sew up the opening with twine; score the pork all over by cutting the rind through in narrow bands with a sharp knife, then spit the joint, and roast it for about two hours, basting it frequently; and when done, dish it up with brown gravy, and serve sage-and-onion gravy in one sauce-boat, and apple sauce in another. No. 442.—ROAST SPARERIB. This should be lightly sprinkled with salt the day before it is to be dressed for table; it must then have a long iron skewer thrust through it lengthwise, and fastened at each end on the spit, and be roasted for about 160 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND an hour and a half before a brisk fire; when done, dish up with brown gravy, and garnish with brown potatoes baked with a little dripping in the oven serve apple sauce, and sage-and-onion in separate sauce boats. Roast necks and loins of pork are to be dressed according to the foregoing directions. No. 443.—HOW TO PICKLE PORE. Pork should be pickled while perfectly fresh : it is a very simple process, for it requires only to be rubbed every day with plenty of common salt, for four or five mornings; but, in order to prevent the possibility of failure, be it remembered that strict cleanliness is indispensable to success; and do not forget that each morning previously to your going to the pickling tub, it is essential that you should wash your hands in cold water. About ten days' salting suffices to pickle pork, and it must be turned over in the brine every morning, so that it may become equally saturated. No. 444.—ROAST SUCKING PIG. Fill the paunch of the sucking pig with stuffing prepared as follows : viz.,—chop fine four onions and a dozen sage-leaves; fry these with two ounces of butter over a slow fire for a few minutes, then add half a pound of bread-crumbs, two yolks of eggs, pepper and salt. And thus, the pig being stuffed, and the paunch sewn up securely, roast it before a brisk fire for about two hours; basting it frequently—by means of a paste- brush dipped in salad-oil. When the pig is done, and before removing it from the spit, cut off the head, and divide the pig into halves, by sawing it straight down the spine. Dish up the pig with brown gravy ; to some of the stuffing add the brains and a few spoonfuls of welted butter and serve this sauce separately. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT, 161 No. 445.—ROAST PIG A LA PERIGUEUX. In this case the pig must be stuffed with truffles prepared as follows: viz.,—thoroughly clean and peel one pound of English truffles, the cost of which would be about three shillings; cut each truffle into four pieces, and place these in a stewpan with half a pound of chopped and pounded fat bacon, chopped thyme and bay-leaf, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and one small clove of garlic; simmer the whole over a slow fire for ten minutes, and with these truffles, &c., fill the paunch of the sucking-pig. Having securely sewn up the opening, roast it as directed in the preceding case, and when done, and dished up, pour over it some périgueux sauce, No. 67, and serve. No. 446.—ROAST PIG A LA CHIPOLATA. Prepare chestnut stuffing as follows: viz.,—scald, peel, and scrape fifty chestnuts, boil them for about twenty minutes in a pint of milk, a bit of butter, and a little salt; and when nearly done, drain the chestnuts dry, and mix them with one pound of highly-seasoned sausage-meat. Having filled the paunch of the sucking- pig with this stuffing, roast it as in the foregoing cases. When done, dish it up with a Chipolata ragout round it. Note.—Roast sucking-pig may also be served with piquante, tomata, Provençale, poivrade, Italian, or ham Buce. No. 447.—BATH CHAPS. Bath chaps—or pig's faces cured as bacon—are much esteemed by some epicures, and are very good sub- stitutes for ham with roast turkey, &c., especially in an economical point of view. When about to dress a bath chap, it should be first soaked in cold water for three or four hours previously to its being boiled for about an hour and a half in water; when done, pull off the 162 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND rind, stake some brown raspings of bread all over the cheek, dish it up with some kind of green vegetable round it, and serve. No. 448.—CHINE OF PORK. A chine of pork is that part which is cut from a bacon-hog (from the upper part of the spine), between the shoulders; it consists of more fat than lean, and is merely salted for about ten days in common brine ; it is to be cooked by boiling it in plenty of water similarly to bacon, and served up garnished with greens, as an ac. companiment to roast turkey, &c. MOUSSKEE L’EL'S AND BUTLER S ASSISTANT. 163 CHAPTER VIII. DIFFERENT METHODS OF DRESSING HAMS. No. 449.—HOW TO SELECT A HAM. York hams are justly considered the choicest among English hams; indeed, I am inclined to say that, excepting peculiarity of taste, no kind of hams is superior to a thorough good York ham: and, in order the hotter to assist you in the selection of good hams, allow me to call your attention to the following par- ticulars : viz.,—while it is an established fact that the best breed of pigs is thin skinned and small boned, it does not necessarily follow that those of thicker rind are to be treated with contempt; so far from this being the case, I will venture to assert that the supe- riority and general qualifications which go to establish the claims of hams for special selection, depend quite as much on their mode of curing as upon any other consideration. The determining points are these: a well-cured ham, to be in good condition for dressing, should be from six months to a year old, and smooth skinned; it should feel springy to the touch, and on being probed down the knuckle, and about the thigh-bone should smell sweet and savoury, and not at all rancid or strong. Depend upon it that whenever you have chosen hams possessing the before-mentioned qualities, you have been fortunate in selecting a delicacy worthy of making its appearance at the table of an epicure, M 2 164 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 450.—TO BOIL A YORK HAM. HAM GLAZED WITH SPINACH, If the ham be only three or four months old, there will be no occasion to soak it for any length of time, previously to its being cooked; but if, on the contrary, the ham happens to be of older standing, say upwards of a year old, it must be soaked for twenty-four hours at least, in cold water, before it will be really fit for cooking. When the ham has been sufficiently soaked, take it out of the water, scrape off the slime and dirt, saw off the knuckle, pare away all the rough exterior from the under part; and, having first sawed or merely chopped the pallet or broad part of the thigh-bone- just above the socket, remove this entirely. This opera- tion requires some care and dexterity; and, if the opera- tion has to be performed by a woman, it had perhaps better be left undone, as, to my knowledge, ladies in general are nervous when handling a sharp knife under difficulties; besides, it is proper to state that, from the hardness of the ham, and the slipperiness of the bones, the operation is attended with danger. Therefore, ladies, I would recommend that you should merely scrape and trim the ham, and put it in a large pan or HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 165 pot with enough cold water to make it swim. Add a couple of carrots, onions, celery, a dozen cloves, mace, thyme and bay-leaves, and boil the ham very slowly indeed for about four or five hours, according to size and weight: and when the ham is done, allow it to become cold in its own liquor. When cold, remove the rind by gently slipping the ends of the fingers of both hands under the rind of the round thick end of the ham, and by this means detach it gradually without removing any of the fat. Trim the surface of the fat smoothly with a knife, place it on a baking-sheet in the oven for ten minutes, take it out, dab it over with a clean cloth to absorb all grease, and with a paste-brush dipped in liquid glaze, paint it all over to give it a uniform bright aspect. When thoroughly cold, garnish with aspic jelly or picked parsley. Note. A more economical way of finishing a cold ham is to shake some raspings all over the fat, instead of glazing it, and to decorate it all round the edge of the fat with a broad streak or band of chopped parsley, pressed on with the fingers and thumb. I need hardly add that, when a ham is required to be eaten hot, after being trimmed, it must be placed in a baking-dish covered over with its rind, or greased paper: add just enough of its own liquor to reach up to the edge of the fat, made hot in the oven for about half an hour, and glazed, and garnished with Jardinière, Macédoine, spinach, broad beans, green peas, French beans, Brussels sprouts, &c. No. 451.—TO DRESS A WESTPHALIA HAM. These hams should be soaked for forty hours at least, and the water changed once in twenty-four hours, especially in summer time; when soaked, cleansed, and trimmed, they must be put on in cold water, and merely simmered for an hour, and then taken out of this water, and being placed in a braizing-pan, moistened with sufficient stock to cover them, garnished with carrots, 166 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND onions, celery, a clove of garlic, twelve cloves, mace, Jamaica pepper, marjoram, thyme, and four bay-leaves. Boil, or rather let the ham simmer, very gently for about. five hours, and when done and cold, trim, glaze, and finish it as directed in the preceding article. Note.--Bear in mind that it is most essential, in order to give hams a fair chance of perfection, that they must allowed to remain in their own liquor until cold, as by that means they retain all their juices. No. 452.—TO DRESS A SPANISH HAM. Spanish hams are known under three different deno- minations: viz.,—Grenada, Montanches, and Bayonne hams. All these hams require at least forty-eight hours' soaking, and must be cooked with great care and attention, otherwise they are spoilt, and are conse- quently not worth eating. When about to dress one of these hams, first soak it well, thoroughly scrape and cleanse it, and gently boil it in cold water for an hour; next, put it in a braizing-pan with a mirepoix. No. 300; - moisten with a pint of wine, and enough stock to cover it, and simmer gently for about four hours: allow the ham to become cold in its own liquor, and finish it as directed in No. 450. No. 453.—HOW TO BOAST HAMS. Trim, soak, cleanse, and parboil a ham for one hour in water; and then set it to soak for about a day in a mirepoix, No. 300, which has been moistened with a bottle of port or madeira. When about to roast the ham, take it out of the mirepoix, wrap it up in two large sheets of oiled paper, with all the ingredients drained from the moisture or liquor of the mirepoix, and put them round the ham inside the paper; cover the whole over with water-paste similarly to a haunch of venison ; secure this with sheets of greased paper fastened on with string; then place the ham thus pre- pared in a cradle-spit, and roast it before a moderate HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 167 fire for about three hours, basting it frequently. At the end of this time take the ham out of the paste it has been roasting in, being careful to make a hole in the paste, so as to enable you to pour out the essence or gravy which surrounds it, and use this gravy and the fore-mentioned mirepoix liquor to add to some tomata sauce, to be boiled together for the purpose of saucing the ham with when it has been glazed and dished up. These hams may be garnished similarly to any of the preceding. No. 454.—BAKED HAMS. Trim, soak, cleanse, and bone the ham, and having parboiled it for one hour in water, place it in a deep baking-dish; add a wine mirepoix, No. 300; cover it first with oiled paper, and then with water and flour crust, just as you would a meat pie; put it in a moderate oven to bake for about three hours, taking care to replenish the moisture with stock, so as not to leave the ham dry in its baking-dish. When done, finish and dish up as in the preceding case. Note.- Baked hams are nearly as delicious as roasted, and give infinitely less trouble in their preparation. 168 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND CHAPTER IX. REMOVES OF VENISON, RED DEER, AND ROEBUCK No. 455.—ROAST HAUNCH OF VENISON. Saw off the shank-bone, remove the sinew, pare away the dark dry skin from the skirt, and also the dried surface of the under part. Then cover the haunch with a large sheet of well-greased paper, and over that place a covering of flour-and-water paste, about half an inch in thickness; envelop the whole with two large sheets of greased paper securely tied on with string; place the venison in a cradle-spit, and set it down before the fire, to roast for about four hours, more or less, the exact space of time depending upon the size and weight of the haunch. When about to take it up from the fire, the paste and paper should be removed; sprinkle a little salt over it, and after dredging the surface with flour, baste it with dissolved butter poured through a straining- spoon, and froth it by means of the red-hot salamander. Dish up with brown gravy, and serve currant jelly, and French beans, separately. Note.—The following sauce is appropriate for roast venison, or roast mutton : viz.,—to one pound of cur- rant jelly add a gill of port wine, the thin rind of a lemon, and a small stick of cinnamon bruised; stir the whole over the fire until dissolved, without boiling strain through a coarse tin strainer, and serve in a sauce-boat. HOCSEKEEPER S AND BUTLER S ASSISTANT. 169 No. 456.—ROAST SHOULDER OF VENISON. A shoulder of venison to be fit for roasting should be very ripe ; that is, it must have hung for something like a fortnight, in order to admit of the sinews and fibres of the meat becoming well mortified by keeping it hung in a well-ventilated cool atmosphere. When about to roast a shoulder of venison, let it be enveloped in greased paper, and paste, similarly to the haunch ; it will take about one hour and three-quarters roasting, and must be frothed and served as recommended for the haunch. Note. It is essential to cover a shoulder of venison with mutton fat, previously to roasting it, as it has none of its own. No. 457.—ROAST NECK OF VENISON. Saw off the spine-bone, and remove the small flat bones which cover the fillet part of the neck; shorten the ribs by sawing them across without cutting through the fat, which, after the upper bones are removed, must be rolled over the ribs; wrap the neck thus trimmed in greased paper, then in a crust of flour-and-water paste; and finally envelop it in greased paper securely tied on with string, and roast it in a cradle-spit before a moderate fire for about an hour and three-quarters; when done, serve as indicated for a haunch. No. 458.—HAUNCH OF RED DEER. The red deer is a noble animal, and affords good sport to the experienced marksman; its flesh is, I be- lieve, much esteemed in Scotland, and more especially by sportsmen, who insist that its flavour ranks high with all connoisseurs. I cannot agree with their verdict; for I have the bad taste, perhaps, to consider red deer venison both coarse and strong, and admitting of no comparison with our well-fed buck venison : doe venison is unworthy the epicure's notice. 170 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND Allow me, ladies and gentlemen, whenever you have occasion to purchase venison, to advise you to go straight to Thomas Grove, of Charing Cross; and pray don't take the trouble to select for yourself, but leave all responsibility to Mr. Grove, and then I will undertake to promise you that you will be satisfied. When about to dress red-deer venison, bear in mind that it must have hung three weeks—if possible, that is, weather permitting: whichever the joint, it must be well covered with thick layers of mutton fat; and must be papered and pasted over in the usual way. An ordi- nary-sized haunch of red deer will take about five hours' roasting: follow in all particulars the instructions for cooking a haunch of venison. No. 459.—VENISON FRY. What is termed a venison fry consists of the muzzle, the heart, liver, skirts, melt, and—what I must here designate the delicacies; it forms altogether a dish which I, for one, should never have a desire to partake of; but as most people's taste in this case seems to differ from mine, I must give rules how to cook it. When it falls to your lot to have to dress a venison fry, cut the heart, melt, liver, kidneys, muzzle, and the etceteras in slices about half an inch thick ; season with pepper and salt, flour them over, and fry them of a blown colour over a brisk fire ; and when done, dish up with fried parsley, and serve separately, in a sauce-boat, some thick highly-seasoned brown gravy, or poivrade sauce. Currant jelly may be served separately. No. 460.—VENISON CHOPS. Venison chops are justly considered a great de- licacy; and when cut from quite ripe, well-fed venison, well-cooked, full of their own inimitable gravy, and served with some plain stewed mushrooms, they cer. tainly are worthy of their claims to the notice of epi cures. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 171 Let these chops be cut an inch thick, neither beaten nor trimmed of their fat, peppered and salted, and placed on a bright gridiron over a clear fire ; be careful to turn them over every two minutes; about twenty to five and twenty minutes will suffice to cook them : dish them on a hot dish, with a small pat of fresh butter under each chop, and serve immediately with an Irish mealy potato. Don't forget the plain stewed mushrooms. These are prepared with a bit of butter, salt, and gravy. No. 461.- ROEBUCK. Plainly dressed roebuck is a very sorry kind of food ; it is really good only when it is larded, and pickled in a marinade, and served with a good sauce, or else made into a haricot, or jugged in the same way as it is customary to jug hares. At present I will instruct you how to dress a haunch of roebuck :- First, saw off the shank-bone, and also the spine- bone; and then, having pared away the superficial skin from the outer part of the leg, and also along the loin, let these bare places be closely larded ; and when this is completed, set the roebuck to steep in sufficient marinade, No. 299, to cover its surface; and allow it to remain in this pickle for a week; it will then be fit to dress; and when about to cook the roebuck, spit it, and roast it before a clear fire for about an hour and a half, basting it very frequently, as otherwise it would certainly eat dry; and when it is done, glaze it, dish it up with fancy-shaped fried potatoes, or German quenelles, No. 356, and groups of stewed prunes, sauce over with poivrade, and serve hot. Note.—Larded roebuck may also be braized and gar- nished with the same ragouts, &c., as recommended for larded joints of mutton. No. 462.—HARICOT OF ROEBUCK. For this purpose take a shoulder or a neck of roe buck, or both; and cut the meat off the shoulder in 172 THE COOK S GUIDE, AND pieces about two inches square, and the neck in thick cutlets—say two bones to each; fry these pieces with two ounces of butter in a stewpan over a brisk fire until they are browned; then pour off all grease, shake in a good handful of flour, stir together, moisten with sufficient stock or water to cover the meat; season with pepper and salt, and vegetables, and stir it over the fire until it boils; remove it to the corner of the stove, to allow it to throw up the scum, which remove with a spoon. When the meat is done, strain the sauce from it into a stewpan to be further reduced with a glass of port wine, and two ounces of currant jelly; trinn the pieces of meat, place them in a stewpan with the carrots, turnips, and onions ; add the sauce, and make the whole hot before dishing up the haricot. Do not forget that the vegetables used for the haricot must be neatly shaped in pieces or forms not exceeding an inch in size. No. 463.—CUTLETS OF ROEBUCK. Saw off the upper bones of the ribs of a neck of roe- buck, leaving the cutlet-bones barely three inches in length; saw off the spine-bone; remove the flat bones which cover the meaty part of the neck, and then with a sharp knife separate the bones—cutting slantwise be- tween each rib-bone; thus, the cutlets being so far shaped, scrape away all meat from the small or upper end of the bone, to the extent of half an inch ; flatten the cutlet slightly with a cutlet-bat (see Adams' Illustra- tions, &c.); trim the meaty part neatly round; season with pepper and salt; dip each cutlet separately in clari- fied butter; bread-crumb and broil them; dish up, and serve piquante sauce round the base of the entrée. GOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 173 CHAPTER X. REBOVES OF POULTRY AND GAME. No. 464.-ROAST TURKEY. ju anti agi HBO ROAST TURKEY Draw the turkey by making an incision at the back of the neck, and cutting away the vent to the extent of an inch in circumference; and, thrusting the middle fingers of both hands simultaneously through these openings, draw out the whole of the inside, reserving the liver and gizzard, which after being freed from gall and digester (the pouch of the gizzard containing stones, &c,), are to be reserved for the purpose of tucking each respectively through a slit made in the wings. Cut off the head and neck, scald the feet, and pull off the rough dirty skin; out away the claws; fill the inside and pouch of the turkey with sausage-meat, or veal-stuffing ; and when trussed with skewers or string, roast it before 174 THE COOR'S GUIDE, AND a good five, basting it frequently to keep its gravy in it, and by this means prevent it from eating dry, which is a very general complaint with roast turkeys,- not froin any want of moisture in the flesh of the bird, but from neglecting to baste it well while it is being roasted. And when the turkey is done, dish it up with fried sausages round it; pour some good brown gravy over, and serve bread sauce, No. 70, separately. No. 465.— TURKEY A LA CHIPOLATA. Stuff and roast a turkey as directed in the foregoing number; dish it up with a Chipolata ragout, No. 123; garnish also with a border of decorated quenelles, when the dish is intended for a grand display of taste, &c. No. 466.—TURKEY A LA PROVENCALE. Prepare the following kind of stuffing: viz.,—chop and parboil for a few minutes only, six large onions ; drain them in a sieve, and put them in a stewpan with four ounces of butter, the crumb of two French rolls previously soaked in milk, chopped parsley, nutmeg, pepper and salt, six yolks of eggs, a few truffles cut in slices; stir the whole over the fire until set in a com- paratively firm paste, and use this stuffing to fill the turkey with; truss and roast it in the usual way, and when done, and dished up, pour some périgueux or truffle, or tomata sauce, over it, and serve. This, when properly cooked, is decidedly one of the best things it is possible to place on a dinner-table. No. 467.—BOILED TURKEY. Truss the turkey for boiling, place it in a large stew. pan, with carrot, onion stuck with six cloves, celery, garnished faggot of parsley, a few peppercorns, and a small handful of salt; moisten with white stock or water, just enough to cover the turkey; boil gently until done tender; drain thoroughly, dish up, pour either parsley sauce or celery, or oyster sauce, over the HOUSEKEEPER S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 175 turkey; garnish it round with alternate slices of tongue or fried bacon, and veal stuffing previously boiled in a cloth, rolled up in the form of a short rolling-pin, and afterwards cut up in slices. No. 468.—BOILED TURKEY A LA YORKSHIRE. Cut off the legs of a turkey; scald, trim, and set them aside : bone the turkey without removing the wings; nearly fill the inside with veal forcemeat, No. 185 ; thrust a trimmed boiled red tongue down the middle of the forcemeat; close the pouch of the turkey by sewing it up securely, and truss the turkey for boiling, inserting the feet in their natural position, and give it as nearly as possible its original form. The turkey thus far pre- pared, must be sewn up in a buttered napkin, and boiled very gently indeed in order not to burst it. When done, dish up the turkey; garnish round with a hold Jardinière of vegetables, sauce with Béchamel or any kind of white sauce, and serve. Note.- Bear in mind that, when carving a turkey à la Yorkshire, the slices must be cut from across the breast, so as to give to each guest a slice composed of equal parts of tongue, turkey, and forcemeat holding together. Turkeys dressed in this fashion, masked with cream Béchamel sauce, decorated with truffle, tongue, &c, and garnished round with aspic jelly, form an elegant dish for ball-suppers. No. 469.—CAPON A LA PERIGUEUX. Stuff a capon with truffes as directed for sucking-pig, No. 445; truss it in the usual way; roast and dish it up; garnish with quenelles ; sauce with perigueux sauce, No. 67, and serve. No. 470.—CAPON A LA PIEMONTAISE. Stuff a capon with truffles as in the preceding nuin- ber; roast and dish it up; garnish with raviolis, No 167, pour some tomata sauce, No. 21, over it, and serve 176 THE 000K'S GUIDE, AND No. 471.-CAPON A LA REGENCE. CAPON À LA RÉGZNLE. Truss, lard, and braize a capon as directed for braiz- ing a neck of mutton. No. 419, without pickling it; and when glazed and dished up, garnish with a Toulouse ragout, No. 105, and serve. No 472.—BOILED CAPON. Truss a capon, and wrap it up in a sheet of buttered paper, tied on securely with string; put it on to boil with carrot, onion, and garnished bouquet, moistened with stock or water enough to cover it, and a little salt; and when done, dish it up with cauliflowers, or brocoli, pour some Béchamel, or any other white sauce over it, and serve. Note.—Boiled capons, fowls, or chickens may also be served with any kind of vegetable garnish, such as Jardinière, Macédoine, &c., or with Toulouse, Finan- oière, Milanese, mushroom, and truffle ragout. No. 473.— BOILED CHICKEN AND BACON. Truss and boil a chicken as in the foregoing number; strain and boil down the broth from the chicken, and use it to make some parsley sauce, No. 48, and when the chicken is dished up, pour the green parsley sauce over it, and serve boiled streaky bacon on a separate dish; garnish with any favourite vegetable in season. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 177 No. 474.—GROUSE A LA KINNAIRD. Stuff the grouse or black game with forcemeat, No. 188, or merely with fowls or game livers, pounded with a pat of butter, shalot, nutmeg, pepper and salt; truss and roast them; and when done, dish up with a Finan. cière ragout, No. 104. No. 475.—BLACK GAME A LA ROYALE. Truss and lard closely a black cock or gray hen; roast or braize it, and when done, and dished up, gar- nish with a white ragout and a border of rissolettes made with game. No. 476.—CHICKEN AND RICE. Truss a chicken for boiling, and put it in a stewpan with half a pound of parboiled rice and an ounce of butter, a few peppercorns, and a little salt; moisten with white stock, or water enough to well cover the fowl and rice; place a round of buttered paper on the top, put the lid on, and set the whole to simmer very gently indeed over a slow fire for about three-quarters of an hour; and when the chicken is done, remove it from the rice, and place it on its dish; add two yolks of eggs, half a gill of cream, a very little nutmeg, pepper and salt to the rice ; stir over the fire until quite hot, and with a spoon garnish neatly round the chicken, and serve. Note.--If the chicken is intended for a child, or an invalid, leave out the butter, cream, spice, and eggs. No. 477.—CHICKEN A LA ROMAINE. Truss and boil a chicken or fowl, and when dished up, garnish with tagliarini (a species of Italian paste resembling ribands), cooked and dressed with cheese similarly to macaroni; surround this with Italian polpetti, No. 354, pour some tomata sauce, No. 21, over the chicken and outside the polpetti, and serve. 178 THE Cook's GUIDE, AND No. 478.—CHICKEN A LA MILANAISE. Stuff a chicken or fowl with fat livers, as in No. 474; truss it for boiling, and having roasted and dished it up, surround it with Milanese ragout, No. 126; garnish with a border of rissolettes, and serve. No. 479.-CHICKENS AND TONGUE. lalo byste Moocac000000002 CHICKENS AND TONGUE A LA MACEDONE. Boil two spring chickens, and when done, place them in a dish, with a trimmed tongue well glazed in the centre; garnish with cauliflowers, or brocoli, sauce the chickens and vegetables with white sauce, and serve. Note.—Chickens or fowls served with tongue, as above, may also be garnished with Macédoine, or Jar- dinière, or any other dressed vegetable. No. 480.– PHEASANT A LA PORTUGUAISE. Braize a pheasant with some wine mirepoix, No. 300, and when done, dish it up, garnish with quenelles of polenta, No. 356 ; sauce with tomata sauce made with the braize from the pheasant, and serve. The polenta quenelles are made as follows : viz,- put three gills of milk, and four ounces of butter in a stewpan on the fire; and, as soon as the milk rises, stir in six ounces of Indian corn-flour or polenta : and HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 179 uaving stirred this paste over the fire until it ceases to adhere to the sides of the stewpan, add two whole eggs and two yolks, two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, nutmeg, pepper and salt; mix thoroughly; shape the quenelles with two tablespoons in the ordinary way, and poach them in boiling water. Remember that if these quenelles are allowed to boil fast, they will be spoilt. No. 481.—PHEASANT A LA GITANA. Truss a pheasant' as for boiling, put it in a stewpan with half a pound of streaky bacon cut in squares of about an inch; add an ounce of butter and a clove of garlic ; fry all together over the fire, until the pheasant has become equally browned all over; then pour off all grease, add two Portugal onions, and four ripe tornatas, sliced thin, and two glasses of sherry; put the lid on, and set the stewpan to stew gently over a slow fire for about three- quarters of an hour, gently shaking the pheasant round occasionally ; just before dishing up, add a teaspoonful of sweet red Spanish pepper. Note.—All kinds of game and poultry, or indeed all kinds of meat, or firm-fleshed fish, are most excellent when dressed a la Gitana, or gipsy fashion. No. 482.—PHEASANTS A LA FLAMANDE. Truss two pheasants as for boiling, and put them in a stewpan with two good-sized cabbages (previously half- boiled), half a pound of streaky bacon, a pound of German sausage, and also a pound of pork sausages, carrot, onion stuck with six cloves, and garnished bouquet of parsley; moisten with stock enough to cover the whole, and set the pheasants, &c., to stew gently over a slow fire for about an hour and a quarter; when done, drain the pheasants, bacon, and sausages on a dish, and keep them. hot while you drain and roll the stewed cabbage in a cloth, so as to enable you to cut it in the shape or form of very large corks : simultaneously with the pheasants, you must also prepare some glazed carrots, and fancy-cut N 2 180 THE COOK'S GUIDS, AND turnips (boiled in milk and water to keep them white) with which to dish up the pheasants ; pour some poivrade or salmis sauce over the pheasants only, and serve. No. 483.—BOILED PHEASANT A LA SOUBISE. Truss a pheasant to boil, and when done, dish it up, mid pour over it some Soubise sauce, No. 58, in which has been mixed a gill of cream; garnish with potato croquets and serve. If Soubise sauce is considered either too expensive or too much trouble, use plain onion sauce, No. 55, instead. Note.--Boiled pheasants may also be served with celery sauce, or with oyster sauce. No. 484.—ROAST PHEASANT, LIVER STUFFING. Procure half a pound of fat livers, fry them with two ounces of fat ham, two shalots, a truffle, a little thyme, nutmeg, pepper and salt; and when nearly done, pound all well together in a mortar, and use this stuffing to fill the inside of a pheasant; truss and roast it, basting it frequently, and when done, serve it with périgueux sauce, or—merely for economy's sake—with brown gravy. Note.—All kinds of game may be dressed as above with equal advantage. No. 485.—BRAIZED PARTRIDGES WITH CABBAGES. See Pheasants, No. 482. No. 486.—PARTRIDGES A LA VICTORIA. A remove dish will require three or four birds. The partridges must be partially boned, by removing the whole of the breast-bone from the interior, without i any degree deforming the breast. The birds must be reasonably filled with game forcemeat in which there have been mixed a few truffles cut in small dice, and are to be trussed up round and plump, and being closely and neatly larded, siiould be braized in wine mirepoix HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 181 No. 300. When the partridges are done, their stock must be strained, freed from all grease, and used for making some brown sauce, to which, after it has boiled, been skimmed, and properly finished, add a small pat of anchovy butter, or a very little essence, half a glass of sherry, and a tiny pinch of cayenne; and use this sauce to pour over the partridges when dished up; garnish round with mushrooms au gratin, and serve. No. 487.—PARTRIDGE8 A LA PRINCE OF WALES. Remove the fillets from three or four partridges; truss the carcasses in exactly the same way as though they had not been deprived of their fillets; braize them, carefully avoiding to break or disturb the natural posi- tion of their legs; and when done, set them to become cold in their own stock. Meanwhile, prepare some quenelle forcemeat, No. 185, using the fillets of par- tridges for the purpose ; and when finished, use this to fill up the vacuity occasioned by the removal of the fillets, so as to admit of the partridges resuming their natural shape : their surface must be smoothed over with a knife dipped in hot water; and, after being very gently painted all over with slightly-beaten white of egg, the forcemeat breasts are to be decorated with black truffle, or red tongue cut in thin slices and stamped out with tin cutters, in the shape of leaves, lozenges, dots, rings, &c., and placed and arranged in the form of wreaths, sprigs of plants, mosaics, or any other fanciful designs. And when this has been accomplished, place the partridges in a deep fricandeau-pan, with just enough stock to reach up to the commencement of the force- meat; put a buttered paper lightly on the breasts of the partridges, and set them to simmer very gently by the side of the fire, remembering that the stock used for poaching the birds must be poured in at the side of the pan boiling hot, so as to set the outer part at once. About twenty minutes' simmering will suffice to cook them; and when done, they must be dished up, garnished 182 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND with cocks' combs, button mushrooms, truffles, and small quenelles; and some Allemande sauce, No. 17, finished or made with the stock the carcasses were braized in, is to be poured round, without masking the decoration. Note.—All kinds of game may be prepared as above. No. 488.--PHEASANT WITH SAGE AND ONION. Stuff the pheasant with sage and onion, No. 297, truss and roast it in the usual way, and when dished up, and served with rich brown gravy, you will taste an ordinary dish, it is true, but at the same time a good thing which you will certainly desire to see repeated. No. 489.—ROAST GOOSE WITH SAGE AND ONION. Stuff the goose with sage and onions, No. 297, truss and roast it before a brisk fire, for about an hour and a half, basting it frequently; and when done, dish it up with good brown gravy, and serve apple sauce, No. 50, separately. No. 490.—BRAIZED GOOSE A LA JARDINIERE. Truss a goose for boiling, and place it in a braizing- pan with the usual complement of stock vegetables, six cloves, mace, peppercorns, and garnished bouquet; moisten with just enough stock or water to cover the goose, and set it to braize slowly for about two hours; remembering that the lid of the pan should be covered with live embers, and that the goose must be frequently basted with its own liquor. When the goose is done, drained, and dished up, garnish it round with spring Jardinière, No. 102, sauce it over with brown sauce, in which there has been incorporated the stock from the goose, previously freed from grease, and boiled down to half-glaze. No. 491.—GOOSE A L'ARLESIENNE. Prepare soine Provençale stuffing, as indicated in No. 466, to which add thirty cleaned roasted chestnuts HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER S ASSISTANT. 183 and use it to fill the inside of a goose ; braize it in mirepoix, No. 300, and when done, drain it, strain its liquor, remove the grease, and having boiled the liquor down to half-glaze, add it to some tomata sauce or pulp, and pour it over the goose when dished up, and gar- nished with a border of tomatas au gratin. No. 492.--STEWED DUCKS A L'ESPAGNOLE. Truss a duck in the ordinary way, and put it in a stewpan with parsley, bay-leaf, and thyme, tied to- gether ; some pieces of carrot and celery, a small clove of garlic, and an onion stuck with four cloves, a little salt, and half a gill of salad oil; fry the duck in this, of a light-brown colour all over, on a stove fire ; moisten with stock or water, and set the duck to braize very gently for about an hour. When done, take it up, strain the liquor, remove the grease, boil the liquor down to half-glaze, add a little brown sauce, and three dozen turned olives; allow this to stew with the duck for a quarter of an hour, and serve. No. 493.—STEWED DUCK WITH PEAS. Truss a duck and braize it in the usual way; and while this is going on, shred a lettuce fine, and put it in a stewpan with a quart of peas, a faggot of green onions and parsley, an ounce of butter, pepper and salt, and a gill of water ; put the lid on the stewpan, and set the peas to stew very gently over a slow fire for about twenty-five minutes, tossing them up occasionally to admit of their being done equally; and, when the peas are become soft, and are done, should there happen to be too much moisture, boil down on the fire until reduced ; add a dessert-spoonful of white sugar, and a good pat of butter kneaded with a dessert-spoonful of flour ; work this it with the peas to bind them, and use them to garnish the duck when dished up : sauce over all, with the stock from the duck, previously boiled down to a glaze 184 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 494.—BRAIZED DUCK WITH TURNIPS. Truss a duck and place it in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, pepper and salt, and a garnished bouquet, and set this to fry gently over a slow fire until the duck is equally browned all over ; then shake in a couple of tablespoonfuls of flour, stir together until the flour and butter are smoothly mixed, and then moisten with stock or water enough to cover the duck, and stir over the fire until it boils; remove it to the side to continue gently simmering for about three quarters of an hour, in order to cook it, and at the same time to allow it to throw up all impurities, which should be removed every now and then. Simultane- ously with the duck, and in the same stewpan, there should be stewed some turnips cut or turned in any fancy- shape—the size of a pigeon's egg; these turnips must be fried in a little butter over the fire, of a light colour, previously to their being added to the duck. When the duck is done, skim away all grease, first take out the duck and place it on its dish, then carefully drain the turnips, and place them round it: and if the sauce happens to be too thin, boil it down by stirring it over the fire ; ascertain that the seasoning is satisfactory, strain and pour it over the duck, &c., and serve. Note.—Observe that ducks, or indeed any kind of poultry or game, may be cooked according to the fore- going simple method ; and, for variety sake, peas, or any other vegetable—such as onions, carrots, celery, or mushrooms, &c.—may be substituted for turnips. Note.—For removes of beef or mutton, &c., or poultry or game, &c., of a richer or more varied style, see my "Modern Cook, Thirteenth Edition, 1861. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 185 CHAPTER XI. MEAT PIES AND PUDDINGS. No. 495.—CHICKEN AND HAM PIE. Cut a chicken into small members; cover the bottom of a pie-dish with small thin collops of veal and ham, placed alternately; season with chopped mushrooms, sha- lot, and paisley, pepper and salt; then add a little white sauce, stock, or water; next place the pieces of chicken in neat order, add a little more of the seasoning, and the yolks of four or six hard-boiled eggs; mask all over with a little more sauce, cover with puff-paste, egg over, and ornament the top, and bake the pie for about an hour and a quarter. No. 496.—PIGEON PIE A L'ANGLAISE. Line the bottom of a pie-dish with small collops of lean rump-steak previously fried brown ; upon this place the halves of four pigeons, also fried; season with chopped mushrooms, parsley, and shalot, pepper and salt; pour half a pint of sauce, or gravy, or water, and a little catsup into the pan the meat has been fried in, to detach the glaze, and pour this over the pigeons, &c., in the dish; add the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, or some plovers' eggs when in season ; cover with puff- paste in the usual way; bake the pie in a moderate oven for about an hour and a quarter. 186 THE COOR'S GUIDE. AND No. 497.—GROUSE PIE A L'ECOSSAISE. Pick and draw two or three young grouse; cut off the wings and legs; tuck the drumsticks in through a slit made under the thigh; singe the birds over a char- coal flame; split them in halves; season and fry them with a bit of butter until half done ; and, simulta. neously with this part of the operation, prepare also some collops of beef; season, fry, and place them at the bottom of a pie-dish; add chopped mushrooms, parsley and shalots, and a tablespoonful of Crosse and Black- well's (Jude sauce : place the fried halves of grouse in neat order on this; add a little more seasoning, and some hard-boiled yolks of eggs; moisten with sufficient sauce, gravy, or water, and a little salt, to reach up to the sides of the pie-dish; cover with puff-paste, and bake for about one hour and a quarter. No. 498.—PARTRIDGE PIE A LA CHASSEUR. Truss loose, singe, and divide into halves three young partridges, season and fry them with a bit of butter; line the pie-dish with thin collops of veal, and half- boiled bacon; season with chopped mushrooms, and parsley, pepper and salt; pour a gill of onion sauce over the veal, &c. : then place neatly the halves of partridges, repeat the seasoning, and the onion sauce ; add some hard-boiled yolks of eggs; cover with paste ; bake for about one hoar and a quarter, and pour in a little good gravy just before sending to table. No. 499.—GIBLET PIE. Procure two sets of goose giblets (ready cleaned if possible ); parboil them in water with a little salt for about six minutes, and then wash and drain them to cool on a sieve. Next, place the giblets in a stewpan, with carrots, celery, onion stuck with six cloves, gar- nished bouquet of parsley, thyme, marjoram, basil and spring-onions, and a few peppercorns : moisten with HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 187 sufficient stock or water, and a little catsup, and stew the giblets very gently over a slow fire for about an hour and a half to two hours, the time required to cook them depending upon the age of the geese they are cut from. When the giblets are done, drain them on a sieve, wash and cut them in pieces measuring about two inches, livers and gizzards smaller ; place these in a pie-dish already lined with seasoned beef-collops; with the stock from the giblets make some sauce, well boiled and freed from all grease and impurities, and boiled down to a proper consistency; pour it to the pie; add hard yolks of eggs; cover with paste; bake for one hour and a quarter, and serve. No. 500.—BEEFSTEAK AND OYSTER PIE. Cut up about two pounds of rumpsteak in collops the size of a teacup; trim away unnecessary fat and sinew without waste; season with pepper and salt; fry them brown on both sides with a little better than an ounce of butter; shake in two tablespoonfuls of flour; add two dozen fresh-opened oysters and their liquor, a little Harvey, and chopped onion; shake round gently over the fire, allowing all to simmer together for five minutes ; arrange the collops of beef, &c., neatly in the pie-dish; add the sauce and a few cooked new potatoes; cover with paste; bake for one hour, and serve. No. 501.—VEAL AND HAM PIE. Cut up a pound and a half of veal-cutlet into collops twice the size of a crown-piece; and prepare also in the same manner about half a pound of ham or streaky bacon. Next, chop a few mushrooms, some parsley and shalot, and fry these with an ounce of butter in a small stewpan : season with pepper and salt; add a little catsup or Harvey, a good tablespoonful of flour and half a pint of gravy or water; stir this sauce over the fire until it boils, then add the juice of half a lemon, and use it to mix with the veal and ham, as they are placed in alternate 188 THE COOK'S GCIDE, AND layers in the pie-dish; place hard-boiled yolks of eggs on the surface, cover with puff-paste, bake for an hour and a quarter, and when the pie is done, pour in a little. gravy, and serve. No. 502.—MUTTON PIE A L'IRLANDAISE. Trim a neck of mutton as if it was intended for cutlets, remove the superfluous fat; separate the neck part into thick cutlets without trimming them wastefully; divide the short ribs and scrag-end into equal-sized pieces of about two inches square; highly season these with pepper and salt, place them in a stewpan with enough water to cover the meat, and set it to stew for half an hour over a rather slow fire : the gravy must now be strained from the meat, freed from grease, poured again to the meat; add thereto six onions and eight potatoes, put the lid on the stewpan, and set the whole to stew gently for another half hour; at the expiration of this time, arrange the cutlets, &c., neatly round the pie-dish; lift the potatoes and onions into the centre without smashing them ; boil down the gravy to the quatity re- quired to fill up the pie; sprinkle a couple of dozen of . oysters over the surface; cover the pie with potato-paste, egg it over, bake it for an hour, and serve a sauce-boat of gravy separately.' Note.—The potato-paste here alluded to is made as follows:- bake a dozen large potatoes, and when done, and just out of the oven, immediately rub their pulp through a clean wire sieve; put this into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, four yolks of eggs, nutmeg, pepper and salt; stir the paste over the fire until it ceases to adhere to the sides of the stewpan, and then roll it out on the slab with flour ;—and remember that: inasmuch as this kind of paste possesses but little elasticity, it must be handled with care, and when rolled out to the size and in the form of the dish which has to be covered with it, the cover should be divided into two or four parts (according to the size of the pie); by this HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER S ASSISTANT. 189 contrivance, it will be more easily adjusted on the top, by gently pressing the joints together with the flat part of the thumb; parts of the paste should be used to de corate the surface of the pie in the usual way. Note.—This paste serves also for potato croquets. No. 503.—POTTED SNIPES, IRISH FASHION. The snipes shot in Ireland are the finest flavoured known, and are or were prepared in a very simple yet excellent fashion, which renders them a great de- licacy for the breakfast-table. In order to enable you to indulge in this delectable bonne-bouche, I will at once furnish you with the necessary instructions to solve the mystery and gratify your longing. The snipes intended to be used for this purpose must be perfectly fresh. After being plucked, their legs and wings are to be cut off; merely remove the gizzard with the point of a knife, leaving all the inside or trail undisturbed; the snipes should be split in halves, and placed on a dish. Next, take what is called an earthen- ware oval pie-pan, such as is commonly used for potting meats, &c.; line the bottom and sides of this with very thin layers of fat bacon ; arrange therein the prepared snipes in neat rows; season between each row witli coarsely ground black pepper and salt; and when the pan is nearly filled, pour in sufficient clarified fresh butter to cover the surface of the snipes; put the lid of the pan on; lute all round the edge of the pan with slack flour- and-water paste to confine the steam which arises from the snipes, &c., while baking, and which, by being thus prevented from escaping entirely, not only improves the flavour of the pie by condensation, but also tends to dissolve the bones sufficiently to render them edible : there being a hole on the top of the lid, it acts as a safety-valve. These pies must be baked in an oven of moderate heat, and are intended to be eaten when quite cold only: 190 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND Note.-- Woodcocks, fieldfares, plovers, young pheasants, partridges, or grouse, larks, wheatears, and especially ortolans and becaficos, are most excellent when dressed as indicated in this number. No. 504.—PIE OF SMALL BIRDS. The birds best calculated to suit this purpose consist of fieldfares, blackbirds, and larks : these birds are only fit for table during the months of November, December, and January; and are in the greatest perfection during frosty weather. The birds intended for this pie should be stuffed with the following preparation : viz., --soak the crumb of a French roll in a little milk; put it in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a little grated lemon-peel, shalot, chopped parsley, nutmeg, pepper and salt, a pinch of aromatic herbs, and three yolks of eggs; stir this over the fire until it becomes a compact paste ; and use it to fill the insides of the birds intended for the pie. You then line the bottom of a pie-dish with fried collops of beef, and place thereon the birds in neat order; pour some fine-herbs sauce over these; add hard-boiled yolks of eggs; cover with puff-paste ; bake the pie for an hour and a quarter and serve. No. 505.—LARK PIE A LA MELTON MOWBRAY. Cut about one pound of veal into small collops, and fly them with an equal proportion of collops of ham or bacon, and place them at the bottom of a pie-dish; then fry two dozen larks from which the gizzard only has been removed, by picking it out from under the thigh with the point of a knife; season with chopped parsley, truffle, and shalot, pepper and salt, some mush- room catsup, button mushrooms, and a large tablespoon- ful of four; moisten with half a pint of gravy or water, stir over the fire until it boils, and then add the whole to the collops of veal, &c., contained in the pie-dish : cover with puff-paste, k ike for an hour and a quarter, and serve. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 191 No. 506.—BEEFSTEAK AND OYSTER PUDDING. Line the pudding-basin with suet-paste, which has been previously rolled out to the thickness of about a quarter of an inch, and fill the pudding with beef collops prepared as indicated in No. 500; wet round the edge of the paste with water; fasten a cover of the same paste all round, by pressing equally on the edges with the forefinger and thumb; twist the edge in with a twirl ; make a small hole in the centre ; steam or boil the pudding for two hours and a half; turn it out of the basin with care, and serve. No. 507.—MUTTON PUDDING. Whether collops or cutlets of mutton are used for this purpose, they must be fried in a sautapan with an ounce of butter, seasoned with chopped mushrooms, parsley, and shalot, pepper and salt; and when browned on both sides without being done through, must be sprinkled over with a large spoonful of flour, moistened with half a pint of gravy, or water with mushroom catsup, and after being allowed to simmer over the fire for three minutes, are to be placed in neat order in the pudding-basin already lined with a suet-crust; and some thick slices of potatoes which have been scarcely half done, are to be placed in between the collops of mutton ; pour the sauce over all, cover in with suet- paste as in No. 506, steam or boil for two hours and a half, and serve. No. 508.—KIDNEY PUDDING. Cut about a pound and a half of ox-veal, sheep, or lamb kidneys, into rather thin collops, and put them in a basin : season with fineherbs sauce, No. 74, and a dessert-spoonful of Crosse and Blackwell's Oude sauce; mix together ;—and, having lined a pudding-basin with suet-paste in the usual manner, fill it with the prepared kidneys, cover the pudding with a circular piece of paste fastened all round, steam or boil it for an hour and a half, and serve. 192 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 509.—PUDDING A LA CHIPOLATA. Either fieldfares, jacksnipes, larks, or wheatears niay be used for this purpose :---take about a pound of any one kind of the above-named birds, picked, singed, and the gizzards removed, and fry them with an ounce of butter, pepper and salt-inerely to brown—without scarcely half-cooking them ; add a ready prepared chipolata ragout, No. 123; simmer together for three minutes, and when cold, use this to fill a ready-lined basin; finish in the usual way, and steam the pudding for an hour and a half. No. 510.—SNIPE PUDDING A L'EPICURIEN. Pluck, singe, and divide six fresh snipes in halves; remove the gizzards, and reserve the trail for use here- after ; season the snipes with cayenne and lemon-juice, and a sprinkle of salt, and set them aside until wanted. Next, slice up a Portugal onion, and fry it with a bit of butter of a light colour; throw in a good tablespoonful of flour, chopped mushrooms, parsley, a suspicion of garlic on the point of a knife, grated nutmeg, and a pinch of aromatic herbs, No. 671; moisten with half a pint of wine; stir the whole over the fire to boil for about ten minutes, then add the trail, and rub this through a tammy; meanwhile, a pudding-basin should be lined with a thin crust of suet-paste, the snipes and sauce, and also some scollops of truffles arranged neatly therein ; cover in with paste; steam for an hour and a half; turn it out with care, and serve. No. 511.—SAUSAGE PUDDING. Procure a pound of Cambridge sausages, and twist each into three balls ; put these into boiling water- merely to scald them sufficiently so as to remove the skin. Line a pudding-basin with suet-paste, fill it with the sausages, and pour the following preparation over them: viz.,—chop an onion and two sage-leaves, and HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 193 fry them with a bit of butter in a small stewpan, add a dessert-spoonful of flour and an equal proportion of Crosse and Blackwell's Oude sauce, and a little salt, stir it over the fire until it boils; and having poured it on the sausages, cover the pudding with paste in the usual way; steam it for an hour and a half, and serve. No. 512.—YORKSHIRE VEAL CAKE. Prepare the following ingredients: viz.,—about a pound and a half of veal collops, three-quarters of a pound of thin slices of ham, or of streaky bacon (pre- viously parboiled for ten minutes to remove its saltness), four eggs boiled hard. Some aspic jelly, No. 7, must have been prepared with a pound of knuckle of veal, the trimmings from the collops, and a calf's foot or cow- heel; or, failing these, four ounces of gelatine may be used instead. Next take an earthen pie-pan—such as is commonly used for potting meats, &c.; spread or pour a layer of the aspic jelly at the bottom, of about the sixteenth of an inch deep, and upon this place in neat circles a layer of veal collops; season with pepper and salt, chopped parsley and shalot, then put a layer of ham, and upon this a layer of hard eggs cut in neat slices; repeat the seasoning and aspic jelly, and so on, until the whole of the ingredients are used up. Cover the pie-pan or basin with stiff flour-and-water paste; bake it on a baking-sheet containing a little water to prevent the possibility of the aspic jelly contained in the cake from being dried up (an accident which might occur if the oven happen to be too hot). Bake the pie or cake for an hour and a quarter in moderate heat, and when done, set it in a cold place until the next day; it may then be turned out whole on a dish, gar- nished with fresh parsley, and served for breakfast or luncheon. 194 THE COOR'A GUIDE, AND No. 513.—YORKSHIRE HARE CAKE. Remove all the flesh from a hare in as large pieces as possible,—that is, take out the fillets, remove the shoulders and hind quarters, and bone them; cut all the meat into collops about a quarter of an inch thick, and set them aside on a plate : with the carcass and trim- mings, and a cow-heel or calf's-foot, make some well- seasoned aspic jelly, No. 7; prepare also some thin slices of ham and hard eggs, seasoning, &c., as indicated for veal cake, using for game cakes the addition of aro- matic seasoning, No. 671. In all respects prepare and finish the hare cake as directed in No. 512. Note.—These cakes are excellent, and inexpensive in their preparation, and may be varied by using pork, beef, mutton, venison, poultry, or any kind of game in their composition, instead of veal or hare. No. 514.—FISH PIE A LA STE. TERESA. For this purpose it is necessary to prepare some force- meat of whiting or haddock, No. 186. Line a plain oblong tin mould with short-paste, No. 756; spread a layer of force meat at the bottom, about an inch thick; cover this with a slice of salmon and fillets of anchovies; season with chopped parsley and spring-onions, and a little pepper and salt; repeat the forcemeat, salmon, and seasoning until the pie is filled; it must then be covered with paste, ornamented, egged over, and baked for about an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half, according to its size and contents. Any of the following sauces may be served separately in a sauce-boat:—maître d'hôtel, Italian, ravigotte, Béchamel, Allemande, or Nor- mande. No. 515.—FISH PIE A LA STE. URSULA. Salmon, trout, codfish, turbot, brill, haddocks, mack- erel, &c.,—and indeed any kind of fish tolerably free from small bones, are adapted to this purpose. HOUSEKEEPERS AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT, 196 Whichever fish is intended for the pie should be freed from skin and bone, and cut into large scollops. A mould should be lined with Brioche paste, No. 737, a thin layer of Béchamel sauce, No. 16, spread over the bottom, and over this place a close layer of scollops of fish; sea- son with chopped mushrooms, parsley and shalot, fillets of anchovies, capers, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and slices of hard-boiled eggs; repeat the sauce, fish, &c., until the pie is filled up; cover it in the usual manner ; bake it for about an hour and a half, and serve. From two to three pounds of fish is the quantity supposed to be used in reference to the foregoing instructions. No. 516.- POTATO PIE. Slice up three onions and put them in a stewpan with four ounces of butter, and a dozen potatoes; add a quart of water, pepper and salt; put the lid on, and set the whole to stew on a rather brisk fire for about half an hour; by this time the potatoes will be done, and the water sufficiently reduced to furnish only enough for the pie; this stew must be piled up in an earthen pie-dish, covered with a potato crust as directed in No. 502, baked for about half an hour, and served. Note.—Any kind of fish, or shell-fish, may be added ; but when fish is used for a potato pie, it should be freed from bone and skin, and simmered with a little butter, pepper and salt, and when done, placed in neat rows on the top of the potato stew previously to the pie being covered in. In this case the pie will require an extra quarter of an hour's baking. No. 517—LEEK FLAMMISH. Cut up a dozen leeks (previously washed clean and free from grit) into pieces half an inch long; place these in a basin with half a pint of good thick cream, season with nutmeg, pepper and salt, and mix all well together. Prepare a pound of short paste, No. 756; divide it into 02 196 THE COOK'S GUIDE. AND four equal parts, mould these into balls, roll them out to the size and shape of pudding plates, and place them on a baking-dish or tin; with a paste-brush dipped in water wet all round the edges of the paste, fill the centre of each flat with enough of the prepared leeks to fill the flammish—when, by gathering up the sides of the paste, each flat assumes the form of a puckered purse; this must be secured by fastening the plaits together with a wetted small circular piece of paste gently pressed upon their centre. Bake for half an hour. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 197 CHAPTER XII. ENTREES, OR FIRST COURSE SIDE DISHES OF PASTRY, &c. No. 518.-VOL-AU-VENT A LA FINANCIERE. S DOOR VOL-AU-VEXT A LA FINANCIERE. For this purpose one pound of puff-paste will be re- quired; and, when mixing it, the juice of a whole lemon must be added. The paste, see No. 323, must be kept perfectly square at the ends, and folded with great correctness, in order to insure the vol-au-vent rising straight and evenly all round, which cannot be expected 198 THE COOK S GUIDE, AND if the puff-paste is rolled unevenly; five turns and a half must be given to the paste, allowing five minutes to intervene between each turn—observing that, pre- viously to folding up the last turn and a half, the paste must be brushed over with lemon-juice. Attention must be paid while giving the last turn and a half, to keep the form of it to the size of the intended vol-au-vent, in order to give it all the thickness it requires. About two ounces of common paste, after being rolled out to the size of a plate, should be stuck on the upper surface of the paste, turned upside down on a wetted baking- sheet, and set on the ice for five minutes; and at the expiration of this time, for the purpose of guiding the hand, a stewpan lid, or any other circular flat, should be placed on the paste, and then with a sharp-pointed knife proceed to cut all round the extreme edge of the lid of the stewpan, causing the point of the knife to bear under the lid to the extent of the sixteenth of an inch. When the vol-au-vent is cut out, egg it over without touching the sides, and with the point of a knife, the point held on a slant inwardly towards the centre, make a slanting circular incision within an inch of the edge, and with the point of a knife press the inner disk away from the incision to prevent them from closing up again. The vol-au-vent should now be put in the oven (not too hot, as excess of heat, by too precipitately colouring the edges, prevents it from rising); as soon as it begins to rise, let a trivet be quickly slipped under it. and the oven be closed. When the vol-au-vent has risen about two inches, and before it has acquired any colour, protect it from too much heat, by placing the hoop of an old sieve round it, and a piece of paper over it; and allow it to remain in the oven until done: this will take about three-quarters of an hour; it must then be removed, and the greasy centre carefully taken out without damaging the case. When about to send to table, make the case hot; place it on its dish; garnish with a Financière ragout, No. 104. HOUSEKEETER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 199 The top may be finished by placing a larded sweetbread surrounded by decorated quenelles, or trufies and cray- fish, as represented in the woodcut; or the vol-au-vent may be served in a plainer style. No. 519.-PATE CHAUD OF PIGEONS. JOGOODS PATE CHAUD OF PIGEONS A LA FINANCIERE Make one and a half pound of paste, No. 755; take two-thirds of this; mould it into a ball; roll it out to the size and form of a dinner-plate; and with the bent knuckles of the right band, indent the centre part to the extent of four inches in diameter, and with the fingers of both hands raise the sides of the paste up in a purse-like form, giving the wall consistency by press- ing the sides of the paste together compactly, and by working the paste in this manner, raise the wall to the height of about eight inches; place this shell on a buttered baking-sheet upon buttered paper ; with the thumb press out the base slantingly; fill the inside with flour or bran; wet round the inner edge ; fasten on a circular piece of the same paste, press it all round securely, cut the edge evenly, pinch it decoratively with pastry-pincers (see Adains' Illustrations); egg it 200 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND over; decorate it as shown in the woodcut; bake it for about three-quarters of an hour, of a light colour. When done, make an incision all round the inner edge of the upper part, remove the lid and the bran; brush the inside clean, and reserve the pie-shell for use. When about to send the pâté chaud to table, make it hot; garnish with very young pigeons which have been previously boned, forced, and braized for the purpose ; add truffles, button mushrooms, and cocks'combs arranged as represented in the woodcut; pour some poivrade sauce, No. 19, over all, and serve. No. 520.-TIMBALE OF MACARONI. ASSADOR DOUleeeeee oro DODILLOS TIMBALE OF MACARON.. A timbale case or shell is thus made: viz.,—make a pound of short-paste, No. 756, and two ounces of nouilles paste, No. 759. Butter slightly and smoothly the inside of a plain round or oval mould; roll out the nouilles paste as thin as paper, and with fancy tin cutters stamp out leaves, lozenges, crescents, rings, &c., with which to form ornamental designs, which are to be arranged and stuck on the bottom and sides of the interior of the mould, as shown in the woodcut. The decoration is then to be carefully moistened by applying HOUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANI. 201 the tip of a brush dipped in water to it, and is after- wards to be lined throughout with some of the short- paste rolled out for the purpose, leaving the paste rising an inch above the edge of the mould. Fill the inside with bran, or with flour mixed with two ounces of chopped suet; wet the edge, place a circular piece of rolled-out paste on the timbale; press both edges to- gether with finger and thumb; twist the upper ridge of paste inwardly with a twirl of the fingers and thumb; make a small hole in the centre for ventilation; bake the timbale for about three-quarters of an hour, and when done, empty it with care ; brush it out clean, and fill it with a Milanese ragout, No. 126; turn it out on its dish, glaze it over with thin light-coloured glaze; pour some white sauce round the base, and serve. No. 521.-BORDER OF RICE A LA REINE. or Sou CÓÓÓDO n BORDER OF RICE A LA REINE, Wash thoroughly and drain a pound of Carolina rice, and put it in a stewpan with nearly three pints of water, two ounces of butter, and a little salt; put the lid on, and set the rice to simmer very slowly on a smothered fire for about an hour and a half; by which time, if properly attended to, the rice will have absorbed the 202 THE COOK 8 GUIDE, AND whole of the moisture, and will have become perfectly soft when a grain is pressed between the finger and thumb: the rice most now be handled with the back part of the bowl of a large wooden spoon, and by this means worked into a smooth compact paste ; and after dipping your washed hands in cold water, it is to be rolled in a ball, gently pressed on a buttered baking-sheet, and finally shaped, by using a thick chisel-shaped wedge or tool (made with raw carrot), often dipped in water to prevent its sticking in the rice; the border, when finished, should resemble the woodcut. About an hour before dinner-time the border of rice should be baked in a brisk oven, of a light-golden colour. When done, and when the rice from its centre is removed neatly and smoothly, it may be filled eitherwith purée or mince of fowl or of game, and finished by placing a border of soft-boiled eggs, or plovers' eggs, round the edge, and a small decorated fillet in between each egg, as represented in the woodcut. Pour a little white sauce over the purée, and round the base, and serve. No. 522.—MAZARINE OF SALMON. AM MAZARINE OF SALMON. Jake about a pound and a half of salinon into force- meat, No. 186, using less panada, and making up the HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 203 deficiency with a gill of stiff Allemande sauce, No. 17. Slightly butter the inside of a very clean quart-size jelly mould, and fill it carefully with the salmon forcemeat; smooth the top over with a knife dipped in hot water, and about an hour and a half before dinner-time, set the Mazarine to steam as you would a pudding; and when done, turn it out on its dish; garnish with picked prawns, decorated quenelles, button mushrooms, &c., or, for economy sake, when turned out, it may be sauced with Cardinal ragout only, No. 62. No. 523.-CHARTREUSE OF PARTRIDGES. CHARTREUSE OF PARTRIDGES. Boil four red carrots, as many turnips, these not over- done, and have also ready some plain-boiled passed * and dry-pressed spinach : line a plain round, or oval mould with buttered paper; cut out the carrots, tur- nips, and the pressed spinach in appropriate fancy ornamental shapes, calculated when put together to form the intended design on the bottom and sides of the mould, as represented in the woodcut. Fit in a wall * Passed through a sieve. TEE Coor'SEDE LID composed of pressed braized cabbage, and fill the centre left how for the purpose with members of the par- mige wich thas been buized with the cabbage, and a very Inde sun sunde ; steam the chartreuse to make it hot, turn it out on its dish, pour some salmis sauce round the base, and serve Nt-Pur the preparation of the partridge, see Braized Pheasants, No 482. Fa 324.-CRUCSTADE OF LARES. Take a square-shaped stale quartern-loaf, and use a sharp knife to carve it in the shape of the crôustade re presented in the annexed woodcut; and when finished stick a fork in the centre of it, and plunge it gently and entirely in some very hot lard, and fry it of a bright fawn colour; stick it on the centre of its dish, with a little white of egg and flour mixed into a paste, and set it aside until dinner-time. Bone eighteen larks, and stuff each with a little forcemeat and a small trufie, et off the legs, and give them the form of round-balls; place them in rows with clarified butter in a sautapan: HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 205 season with pepper and salt, cover them with a circular piece of buttered paper, and push them in a rather hot oven for a quarter of an hour, which will suffice to cook them. When about to send to table, make the crôustade hot by placing it for five minutes in the oven, drain the prepared larks, and pile them neatly in the emptied crôustade; garnish with button mushrooms and cray- fish; pour some périgueux sauce over and round it, and serve. Note.—Any small birds prepared as indicated above may be used for the purpose, and the garnish may be varied with quenelles, cocks' combs, olives, &c. No. 525.—TOURTE OF GODIVEAU. du RESSO TOURTE OF GODIVEAU. Make a tourte shell or crust in manner following . viz.,—first, make half a pound of puff-paste, and give it four turns in the usual manner; make also half a pound of short-paste ; take half of this; knead it into a round ball; roll it to the size of a dinner-plate; put it on a round baking-sheet, and place a tampion of soft paper rolled in the form of a bun in the centre. The puff- paste must then be rolled out to the length of twenty inches, lightly wetted over with a paste-brush dipped in water, and folded lengthwise in three; this must be rolled again in its width, just sufficient to make it about four inches wide; the paste being again wetted, must now be again folded in three as before : by this time, it 206 THE COOK'S GUID), AND should footni a band measuring twenty inches long, and two inches wide, and half an inch thick. The edges of the band of paste must now be pared away, with a small sharp knife held perpendicularly in the right hand, whilst the paste must be slightly pressed on the slab with the fore part of the fingers. Next, add the trim- mings of the puff-paste to the remaining half of the short- paste; knead both together; roll this out to the size of a dinner-plate, and, after having first wetted round the edge of the foundation, place it over the tampion and press it down all round with the thumb; wet the edge of the tourte round again, and apply the band in the following manner: viz.,—take hold of the band at both ends, and begin by fastening that held in the right hand round the tourte, and continue fixing the band all round the edge as fast as it is dropped in its place from the left hand; press the first end down so as to thin it; wet this part with the brush, and after paring away a little from the other end, so as to thin that also, fasten both together so as to join them. Press the band down all round with the thumb, and flute it round the edge by jagging it slightly with the back of a knife. The tourte must now be egged over with a paste- brush, so as to carefully avoid smearing the edges of the band. Place it in a moderately-heated oven, and bake it of a light colour; and when done, withdraw it; make an incision all round the inside of the band ; lift off the cover; remove the tampion of paper; place the tourte on its dish ; garnish with a ragoût composed of brains, sweetbread, quenelles of godiveau, mushrooms, and truffles, and crayfish on the top; sauce with poivade or Financière, and serve. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 203 CHAPTER XIII. PLAIN ENTREES OR SIDE DISHES FOR EVERY-DAY FARE. No. 526.—HASHED BEEF. Cut, slice, or shave the beef in small thin collops or slices, and put these into a stewpan with a dessert. spoonful of flour, and a little pepper and salt; shake all together; add a small wineglassful of mushroom catsup and half a gill of gravy or water; stir over the fire for a few minutes until quite hot, and dish up with sippets of dry toast round the hash. No. 527.—HASHED BEEF ANOTHER WAY. Chop an onion fine, and put it into a stewpan with a wineglassful of vinegar and an equal quantity of catsup; set this on the fire to boil down to half the original quantity; then add a gill of good stock, and the prepared beef, floured and seasoned as in the preceding case; boil together for five minutes, and serve. No. 528.—HASHED BEEF WITH PICKLED WALNUTS. Prepare the hashed beef as demonstrated in either of the preceding cases, and when dished up, garnish it with a few whole pickled walnuts, carefully warmed without bruising them, in some of their own catsup. A little Oude sauce imparts an appetising relish to all kinds of hashes. 208 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 529.—MINCED BEEF. Cut the beef from the bones; break them up with a cleaver (see Adams' Illustrations); put them in a stew. pan with onion, carrot, thyme, and two cloves; moisten with a quart of water, and boil gently until reduced to less than half; and when done, strain, remove all grease, and make this into rather less than half a pint of good sauce. Chop the beef fine; put it with the sauce in a stewpan, add a little grated lemon-peel, a very little nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of Harvey; stir over the fire until quite hot, and serve with poached eggs placed round the mince. No. 530.—GRILLED BONES. Blade-bones from shoulders of mutton or lamb are generally preferred as a relish of this kind; but, of course, any other bones with some meat on them will serve the purpose in a case of emergency. Score the meat on the bones twice crosswise ; season plentifully with pepper and salt; grill them crisp without burning them, and serve with hot mushroom or walnut catsup. Note.—Grilled bones are sometimes served as an ac- companiment with hashed beef or mutton. No. 531.—DEVILLED BONES. Score the bones, saturate them with Devil's mixture, No. 128, grill them crisp, and serve dry. No. 532.—BUBBLE-AND-SQUEAK. This is a favourite dish with some people, and is available when it happens that you have had boiled beef the day before ; it is certainlypreferable to a cold dinner. Cut the beef and its fat in slices about the sixth of an inch in thickness, and fry them quickly over a brisk fire, just enough to warm the meat through without drying it, and dish it up round some chopped or small ROUSEKEEPER S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 209 crt dressed cabbage, carrots, and parsnips, seasoned with pepper and salt, and fried with butter. No sauce. Note. - It is usual when people are fond of bubble-and- squeak to boil sufficient vegetables with the beef for a dish of bubble-and-squeak the next day. No. 533.—RUMP-STEAK, PLAIN, &c. A rump-steak, to be eaten in perfection, should be cut from rich-grained well-kept beef—that is, having been killed some ten days, weather permitting; the steak should be an inch thick: it must not be flattened nor beaten. This custom, too common with cooks and butchers, is a vain attempt to make tough meat tender by bruising the fibres of the flesh. Prepare ready fissures for all the juices of the meat to run out, either before or while it is being cooked. A steak should not be cut from the rump any length of time before it is required to be cooked, as in dry weather the current of air absorbs its moisture, while the effect of a milder atmosphere occasions all the gravy to exude. Thus, under the supposition that you are fortunate enough to command a tender steak season it with pepper and salt, and broil it on a clean gridiron over a clear fire, carefully turning it every two minutes until it is done,—that is, well done or underdone, according to taste. Put it on its dish, upon a pat of fresh butter, place another pat upon it; and the addition of half a lemon squeezed over it, with a tablespoonful of Harvey, will compel you to admit, that even at that celebrated club to which, under the infliction of bad cookery at home, you are so very often driven to resort for better fare, you could not have hoped for anything more perfect. Note.—Steaks may be varied by serving, as a garnish or accompaniment, fried onions, fried potatoes, onion, or mushroom, or oyster sauce, separately. 210 THE COOK S QUIDE, AND No. 534.—OX-KIDNEY GRILLED. Cut the kidney in slices about half an inch thick; season with pepper and salt on both sides; place them on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil them until done on both sides : they must then be dished up on a hot dish, with maître-d'hôtel butter, No. 127, under them, and served immediately. No. 535.—STEWED OX-KIDNEY. Cut the kidney in thin slices, and fry them with butter in a sautapan over a quick fire, season with chopped mushrooms, parsley and shalot, pepper and salt; shake in a tablespoonful of flour; add a little Harvey sauce, lemon-juice, and a gill of stock or water; stir over the fire until the whole has simmered together for five minutes, and dish up with sippets of dry toast all round the dish. No. 536.—BEEF COLLOPS. Cut a steak or some fillet of beef into thin slices measuring about two inches in diameter, and fry these with butter in a sautapan until done on both sides ; shake in a little flour, add a dozen oysters and a little Harvey sauce, lemon-juice, pepper, and a teaspoonful of anchovy; simmer over the file until the oysters are done, and then dish up. Note.- Mushrooms, truffles, olives, or gherkins may be used instead of oysters; a little sherry may be added in any of these cases. No. 537.—ROLLED BEEF COLLOPS. C'hop some mushrooms, parsley and shalots; fry these with an ounce of butter; season with nutmeg, pepper and salt, and lemon-juice, add two yolks of eggs; stir over the fire until the fine-herbs are thickened, and then divide this composition among the prepared thin collops of beef, and roll them up in the form of small bolsters • HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 211 place them in a sautapan in some clarified butter; set them in the oven for ten minutes; and when done, drain and dish them up neatly : pour some brown oyster sauce, No. 44, over them, and serve. No. 538.—BEEF AU GRATIN. This dish is most appropriately served as part of a judicious system of economy, when it happens that some remains of a joint of braized or roast-beef are left from a previous day's dinner; in which case, the beef should be cut into thin neat slices, and immediately dished up cutlet-wise, one overlapping the other the same dish in which they are intended to be sent to table should be used for the purpose); season with chopped parsley and shalot, pepper and salt; moisten all over with a gill of good gravy, or water mixed with Harvey or catsup; strew some brown raspings over the surface of the beef: sprinkle a little dissolved butter over this; push in the hot oven for ten minutes, and when the whole has be- come quite hot, send to table. No. 539.—MIRONTON OF BEEF. Remains of beef from a previous day's dinner are also appropriate for the economical preparation of this most excellent though unpretending dish. Cut six onions in thin slices, and fry them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, over a slow fire until browned; then add a tablespoonful of flour, moisten with nearly a pint of good gravy, or water and catsup, season with pepper and salt, stir over the fire to boil for ten minutes, and then pour this over the slices of beef already dished up on a dish that will bear the heat of the oven without breaking; strew some raspings of bread over the surface, bake for a quarter of an hour, and serve while hot. A spoonful of Crosse and Blackwell's Oude sauce would be an improvement in the composition of this al petising entrée. B 2 212 THE COOK's GUIDE. AND No. 540.—TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE. This very objectionable title enables me to usher in to your special notice a dish possessing some claims to consideration, when prepared with care as follows: viz., -cut up about two pounds of tender steak or ox-kidney, or half of each, into rather thick collops about three inches in diameter; season with pepper and salt; fry them over a sharp fire, merely to brown them without their being done through ; place the collops in neat order in a buttered pie-dish; detach the brown glaze from the bottom of the pan in which you have fried the beef, with gravy or water, and a little catsup, and pour the residue to the collops in the dish; then add a well-prepared batter for Yorkshire pudding, No. 292, gently poured upon the meat, bake for about an hour, and serve while quite hot. This excellent old English dish will occa- sionally prove a welcome addition to the dinner-table of paterfamilias. No. 541.—VINEGARET OF BEEF. Cut small and very thin slices of cold-braized or well- boiled beef, and put them in a salad-bowl with sliced beetroot, quarters of hard-boiled eggs, and a few sliced cold kidney potatoes; season with pepper and salt, three tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, and two of Crosse and Black- well's fine-herbs vinegar, chopped parsley and shalot; mix well, and serve either for luncheon or as part of a make-up dinner. No. 542.—BOILED TRIPE. Procure any given quantity, say two pounds, of clean- dressed fat tripe; cut it in pieces of about three inches square, and boil these in a stewpan with eight onions, three pints of milk, a tablespoonful of salt and twenty- four peppercorns; the tripe, &c., must boil gently for an hour, and when about to send to table, remove all grease froin the surface, and serve altogether in a soup-tureen or deep disli, with onion sauce, separately. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 913 No. 543.—FRIED TRIPE. For this purpose the tripe should be previously boiled in milk or stock for half an hour, and when cold, each piece dipped separately in some frying batter, No. 288, and fried crisp in some hot frying fat or lard; when done, dish up with fried parsley on a napkin, and some tomata, piquante, poor-man's, Provençale, or Lyonnaise sauce, served separately in a sauce-boat. No. 544.—STEWED TRIPE. Slice up six onions; fry them with two ounces of butter until browned; then add two ounces of flour, a tablespoonful of Captain White's (Crosse and Black- well's) curry-paste; moisten with a pint of stock, or water; stir over the fire until the sauce boils; then add the pieces of tripe and a little more stock; stew all together gently for an hour; and when done, remove all grease, and serve hot. No. 545.— BAKED TRIPE. Fry six sliced onions brown with some butter, and place this with the pieces of tripe in an earthen pot or pan (having a lid); shake a good tablespoonful of flour over the tripe; add a tablespoonful of Indian Chutnee, a pint of cyder, and salt to season ; place the lid on the pan, and set it in a moderately-heated oven to bake for about an hour and a quarter, and when done, remove the grease from the surface. Serve the tripe in the pan it has been baked in, with a clean napkin pinned round it. No. 546.—PORK CHOPS. The best pork chops are those cut from the kidney end of the loin, having part of the kidney left adhering to the chop; they should be seasoned with pepper and salt, broiled carefully of a light-brown colour on bot! sides; and when done, served with sage-and onion 214 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND gravy, No 297, and apple sauce, No. 50: tomata, piquante, Robert, and Provençale sauces, form appro- priate relishes with pork chops. No. 547.—PORK CUTLETS. The neck part of small dairy-fed pork, and not over fat, is most appropriate for cutlets. In trimming them, the skin should be left on, and scored or slit at inter- vals; the cutlets should be broiled with care, allowing them to become very lightly coloured on both sides; and when done, and dished up, should be glazed over, and one of the following sauces poured round the base : viz.. -piquante, tomata, Provençale, poor-man's, shalot gravy, Robert, or Lyonnaise. No. 548.—PIG'S FRY. A pig's fry consists of the liver, heart, lights, melt, and the chitterlings: these are severally cut into slices, and after being floured over, should be fried with butter in a pan over a brisk fire, very quickly until browned all over. When done, they should be seasoned with pepper and salt, dished up with fried parsley, and served with sage-and-onion gravy, No. 297. No. 549.—CURRIED PORK. Take—say two pounds of pork cut from any part of the pig, provided that it be not too fat; separate this into square pieces about the size of an egg; fry them brown with some butter in a stewpan; then add six chopped onions previously fried, a tablespoonful of Crosse and Blackwell's curry powder, and an equal quan- tity of curry paste, a little salt, and nearly a pint of stock or water; stir the whole over the fire until it boils, and then set it to simmer slowly for about three-quarters of an hour. When done, dish up the pieces of pork neatly; reduce the sauce; pour it over the curry, and send to table with plain boiled rice in a separate dish. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER 215 ASSISTANT. No. 550.—HASHED MUTTON PLAIN. Cut up the mutton intended to be hashed into very thin small slices; shake a little flour, pepper, and salt over them, and throw them into a stewpan wherein has been boiling some finely-chopped onion with a little broth or water; season with pepper and salt, and a little Harvey ; boil together for three minutes, and serve with sippets of dry toast round the dish. The bones, grilled, may be added. No. 551.—MUTTON HASHED VENISON FASHION. For this purpose the roast mutton should be cut in rather larger and thicker slices; flour and season them over with pepper and salt, and set them aside on a plate; next, put some chopped shalot in a stewpan with a dessert-spoonful of Oude sauce, a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, two glasses of port wine, a little Harvey, and a large tablespoonful of currant jelly ; add the pre- pared mutton; boil together for five minutes, and serve hot, with French beans in a separate dish, when in season. When hashed mutton prepared as herein indi- cated is made with four-year-old mutton, it is equal to venison. No. 552.- HASHED MUTTON A L'INDIENNE. Boil a chopped onion in half a pint of broth for ten minutes, then add a dessert-spoonful of Captain White's curry paste, and the sliced mutton floured and seasoned ; simmer together over the fire for five minutes, and serve in a border of plain-boiled rice. Note.—In addition to the foregoing methods for hashing mutton, it may also be prepared as directed for beef. No. 553.—MINCED MUTTON. Chop the mutton fine, or else cut it up into very small thin shreds; and set this aside on a plate; put an ounce of butter, ditto of flour, and a little chopped TEE OOKS GCIDE, AND shalot in a stewpan, and stir this over a very slow fire I t] 11 assumes the lighest-fawn colour; then moisten with a glass of port, ditto of Harver.grated nutmeg and lemon-Treel pepper and salt; add the minced mutton; std 2 dagetiter over the fire un til quite hot and serve with prebad eggs con the top, and a border of potato CTV Opets und live biase. h u tant jelly may be added, if suited to taste. No. 554.—MUTTON CHOPS. These Innst never be batted or beaten; season with pepper and salt; brol over a clear fire; turn them frequently so that they may retain their own gravy, and serve each chop on a separate hot plate. The adatke of a little copped shalot and a bit of fresh loter placed under each chop is no bad thing by way of a relish No. 555. -- MUTTON CUTLETS PLAIN. Saw of the upper rib-bones from a neck of Dan leaving the bones, which are to form the cutlets, adat three inches long: rem ve the spine-bone with a small SW; pare WT be flat bones which adhere 10 De meaty filet of the neck, and then separate the bones into cutlets by cutting slantwise to the left; trim CT13ets neatly bout waste; season with pet per mà salt; broil thema and dish tibern up with plain gravy: they may also be dished up round mashed potatoes, and shalt gravy, No. 64, poured round. No. 556.— MUTTON CUTLETS BREAD-CRUMBED. Trim the cutlets as directed in the foregoing number; season with pepper and salt; pat closely some bread- crumbs on each cutlet, and then having dipped them separately in some clarified butter, bread-crumb them again; broil the cutlets on both sides over a clear fire, dish them up, and serve with plain gravy under them Jie-Cutlets prepared as above may also be Seite HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 217 with thick purées of peas, asparagus, turnips, chestnuts, carrots, onions, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, with Jardinières, Macédoines, all kinds cf dressed vege- tables, and also with the following sauces, viz. ;--piquante tomata, Italian, poor-man's, Robert, Lyonnaise, &c. No. 557.--STEWED SHEEP'S KIDNEYS. Split six kidneys in halves; remove the skin ; slice up each half very thinly; fry this with an ounce of butter in a sautapan, until browned; then shake in a little flour, chopped mushrooms, parsley and shalot; season with pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; add a glass of sherry; stir over the lire for five minutes, and serve hot: mush room or truffles may be added. No. 558.—SHEEP'S KIDNEYS A L'EPICURIEUNE. Draw a knife nearly through each kidney from the outer or rounded part of the kidney, without dividing it; remove the skins; season with pepper and salt, dip the kidneys in clarified butter and crumb them; run them on skewers, and having broiled them over a clear fire, let them be dished up, presenting the hollow part uppermost; fill this well with Tartar sauce, No. 38; pour some Devil's sauce, No. 83, round the base, and serve. No. 559.—SHEEP'S KIDNEYS WITH FINE-HERBS. Prepare and broil the kidneys as indicated in the pre- ceding case, and when done and dished up, fill the well of each kidney with a lump of maître-d'hôtel butter, No. 127; pour a very little glaze gravy under them, and serve hot. No. 560.—SHEEP'S TROTTERS. These are easily obtained ready cleaned and parboiled, from all tripe-shops throughout the country: they should be put on to boil in water with carrot, onion, celery, garnished bouquet, salt, lemon, or a little vine- gar, six cloves, and a few peppercorns. They require 218 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND about two hours' very gentle boiling to cook them thoroughly; and when done, should be split, freed from all unnecessary bones, and especially of the hoofs and a dingy-looking curled substance of a very offensive character, which is found situated between the separation of the hoof: dish up the feet neatly, and pour some Poulette sauce, No. 36, over them, and serve. No. 561.—CALF'S LIVER AND BACON. Cut the liver in slices about a quarter of an inch thick, and cut also some streaky bacon into small thin slices, or, as they are familiarly termed, rashers; fry the bacon first, and drain it on a plate; next, after having floured the pieces of liver, fry these also in the fat from the bacon, and when browned on both sides, dish up the liver and bacon in a circular row, placing a piece of each alternately : drain off the fat from the pain in which the liver has been fried; shake in a little flour: add a wineglassful of catsup, a little pepper and salt, and half a gill of stock or water ; stir altogether over the fire, until the sauce boils, and pour it over the dished. up liver and bacon. *Note.—A few sliced gherkins, mushrooms, pickled walnuts, or even mixed pickles, may be added to the sauce. No. 562.—CALF'S LIVER A LA MODE. Cut up about six ounces of bacon into long square strippets or lardoons, and insert these at equal distances in the interior part of the liver; fry it whole in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a clove of garlic, thyme, bay-leaf and paisley—tied together, an onion stuck with eight cloves, and a bit of mace; and when the liver is equally browned all over, add carrots, turnips, and onions, neatly turned of equal size, a glass of brandy, and stock or water, barely enough to cover the whole; allow this to simmer very gently for about two hours, taking care to baste the liver frequently with its own liquor. When done, place the liver on its dish, NOCSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 219 garnished round with the vegetables; strain the stock, remove the grease, add a glass of wine and a little Harvey, boil it down to the quantity needed to sauce the liver, pour it over, and serve. No. 563.—SCOTCH COLLOPS. Cut about a pound of veal cutlet into thin collops or slices, about two inches in diameter; season them with chopped parsley and shalot, pepper and salt; dip each piece in beaten egg, crumb them over with bread- crumbs, and fry them with a little clarified butter in a sautapan, of a very light-brown colour; dish them up, placing alternately a veal collop and a small thin piece of fried bacon; pour some piquante sauce over them, and serve. Note.—If more convenient, the same sauce as indicated in No. 561, may be used. No. 564.—VEAL CUTLETS WITH MUSHROOMS. Cut up a pound or more of veal cutlets into oval, oblong, or heart-shaped cutlets, about a quarter of an inch thick ; season with pepper and salt, fry them brown on both sides, and dish them up—alternately with small thin slices of fried liam, or bacon; drain off half the butter from the pan, shake in a tablespoonful of flour, some mushroom catsup, and a handful of mushrooms; moisten with a gill of stock or water; boil all together for five minutes; pour the sauce over the cutlets, and serve. No. 565.—MINCE VEAL WITH POACHED EGGS. Minced veal is most appropriately served when it happens that some portion of a previously-dressed joint is left; in which case all the meat should be cut from the bones, minced into very small thin shreds, and set apart in a stewpan; the bones are to be broken up, and put in a stewpan with an onion, carrot, celery, half a bay-leaf, thyme, parsley, two cloves, a few peppercorns, a little salt, and about a quart of water; set this to boil 220 THE COOK S GUIDE, AND gently for an hour, and when done, strain it, and having removed all grease, make it into white sauce,--see No. 15; and having stirred the sauce over the fire until reduced to the quantity required for your purpose, strain one half into a small stewpan, and add the remainder to the minced veal ; season with nutmeg, grated lemon- peel, pepper and salt; make it hot; pile it up in the centre of the dish ; garnish it round with poached eggs, and very small pieces of rolled thin bacon fried; pour the other half of the sauce over the minced veal and round the base of the entrée, and serve. No. 566.—CALF'S BRAINS A LA RAVIGOTTE. The two lobes of the brains should be separated with a knife, and after being soaked in cold water for a while, the caul or skin which envelops them must be gently removed with the fingers; and, after remaining in fresh water a little longer, they should be slowly boiled in half pint of water seasoned with a spoonful of vinegar, a little sliced onion, carrot, bay-leaf, thyme, pepper and salt: when the brains are done, they should be drained, cut in thick collops, and dished up like cutlets, sauced over with ravigotte, No. 34, and garnished round with potato croquets. No. 567.—CALF'S BRAINS WITH NUT-BROWN BUTTER. Prepare and dish up the brains as indicated in the pre- ceding case ; pour some nut-brown butter, No. 54, over then; garnish the centre with fried parsley, and serve. No. 568.—CALF'S BRAINS FRIED. The brains are to be prepared in the first instance as shown in No. 566, and when cold, are to be cut into slices - lengthwise—of about a quarter of an inch in thickness; these must be dipped in frying batter No. 288, fried in sufficient very hot lard, or other frying fat -to make them swim : turn them lightly over the whole HOC3EKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 221 time they are being fried, in order that they may be equally browned all over; and when done, and crisp, drain and dish them up on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve one of the following sauces separately in a sauce-boat: viz,--tomata, piquante, poor-man's, ravi- gotte, Robert, &c. No. 569.--CALF'S BRAINS IN CASES, AU GRATIN. The brains, after being cleansed, boiled, and cut into small collops, must be added to some well-seasoned Allemande, Béchamel, ravigotte, or maître-d'hôtel sauce -previously made hot; mix them gently in this, and with the preparation fill some paper cases, No. 325 ; strew fried bread-crumbs upon the tops; push in the oven for a few minutes ; dish up the cases on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve hot. Note.—Ham, tongue, truffle, mushrooms, or any kind of pickles may be added in small quantities. No. 570.—CALF'S FEET A LA BOURGEOISE. Split and bone a couple of calf's feet, and parboil them in water for ten minutes; they are then to be placed in a stewpan with half a pound of raw ham or gammon of bacon, and a pound of knuckle of veal, two carrots cut in equal shapes and sizes, six or eight onions, four cloves, a garnished faggot of parsley, a wineglass of mushroom catsup, pepper and salt; moisten with a quart of broth or water; put the lid on, and set the feet, &c., to stew very slowly indeed by the side of the fire for about two hours and a half, taking care to turn the meat, &c., over occasionally, in order that the whole may become gradually glazed all over alike : care must be taken while the feet, &c., are stewing, that by the time they are done, the stock or liquor should be allowed gradually to boil down to the quantity required for saucing the dish; and when all is done quite soft and tender, dish up the whole of the meats with the vege. tables round them; pour the gravy over all, and serve. 222 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 571.—CALF'S FEET A LA POULETTE. As a general rule, calf's feet are first boiled in water without any addition, for the purpose of extracting their gelatine for making jellies; but even then, pro- vided the feet are not too much done, so as to become worthless, they should be drained on a dish, seasoned with a little vinegar, chopped parsley and shalot, pepper and salt, and after being allowed time to become well impregnated with this seasoning, should be made hot with a good bit of glaze and a couple of Indian gher- kins sliced up. Note.—Calf's feet prepared as above may also be warmed in some Poulette, fine-herbs, tomata, piquante, or ravigotte sauce. No. 572.—CALF'S FEET FRIED. When the feet have been boiled, seasoned as in No.371, and are cold, cut them in pieces the size of a small cutlet; dip each piece in batter, No. 288; fry them in hot fat, and when become crisp, let them be drained on a cloth, dished up on a napkin with or without fried parsley, and some tomata, piquante, or ravigotte sauce, served separately. No. 573.—LAMB'S HEAD GALLIMAUFRIED. See Sheep's Head, No. 423. No. 574.—LAMB'S FRY. Lamb's fry consists of the heart, liver, melt, brains, kidneys, the frill, breads, and other delicacies; these should be cut in slices, seasoned with pepper and salt, floured over, and fried crisp; and when browned on both sides, should be dished up with fried parsley, and served with good gravy, or any sharp sauce. 10USEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 223 No. 575.—LAMB'S FEET A LA POULETTE. Lamb's feet are always easily obtained ready scalded and boned from the butcher or the tripe-shop. They should be put in a stewpan with an onion stuck with tour cloves, a sliced carrot, garnished faggot of parsley, peppercorns, enough salt to season, the pulp of a lemon, four ounces of chopped suet, and sufficient water to let them swim ; put the lid on, and boil them very gently until done- this will take about an hour. When about to dish up, the feet must be drained on a cloth, all the large bones removed, and a black curled noisome sub- stance taken out from between the hoofs; this done, place the feet neatly piled in their dish ; pour some Poulette sauce with mushrooms, No. 36, over them ; garnish with potato croquets, and serve. No. 576.—LAMB CHOPS BREADED. Lamb chops are best when cut with a slice of the kidney and its fat left adhering to the chop; they should be seasoned with pepper and salt, dipped in clarified butter, well crumbed over with fresh bread- crumbs, and carefully broiled of a light-golden brown on both sides, and served with fried parsley and tomata sauce. · No. 577.—LAMB CUTLETS WITH CUCUMBERS. Trim a neck of lamb as demonstrated in No. 555, and prepare the cutlets in exactly the same manner. When done, glaze them over, and having dished them up in a circular row, fill the centre with cucumber garnish, No. 109, pour some of the sauce round the base of the cutlets, and serve. No. 578.—LAMB CUTLETS A LA ROBERT. Trim the cutlets, season with pepper and salt, dip them in beaten egg and crumb them over, and pat the crumbs on closely; dip each cutlet in some clarified butter, crumb them again, and pat them into shape with 224 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND the blade of a knife; broil the cutlets over a clear fire, of a light colour, and when done, and glazed over,- dished up, and sauced round with some Robert sauce, No. 35, send to table. No. 579.—ROASTED SWEETBREADS. Soak the sweetbreads in cold water for a couple of hours to draw all the blood out, and by this means render them more delicate and white; parboil them in water for five minutes, immerse them in cold water to cool them, and trim away all extraneous parts in the form of sinew and skin: next, dip a paste-brush in two raw yolks of eggs, and having rubbed the sweet- breads all over with the egg, and rolled them in fine bread-crumbs, you then sprinkle them over with clari- fied butter, and bread-crumb them again, and place them in a sautapan containing about two ounces of dissolved butter, and set them in a sharp oven to bake for about half an hour, basting them frequently with the butter from the pan. When they are done of a light-golden brown, dish them up with plain gravy (if for a delicate, or convalescent person), or else garnish them with any kind of dressed vegetables; and they may be sauced with any kind of white sauce. No. 580.—SWEETBREAD CUTLETS. First soak and parboil the sweetbreads as directed in the foregoing case, and when cold, cut them in thin slices lengthwise ; trim them neatly into shape without waste; season the cutlets thus produced with pepper and salt; brush them over with raw yolks of eggs; bread crumb them, and after dipping each in clarified butter, crumb them over again; pat them into shape; fry them on both sides with clarified butter in a sautapan, and when done, glazed, and dished up, garnish the centre with any kind of dressed vegetable; pour some Allemande, Béchamel, or gravy round the base, and serve. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER-S ASSISTANT. 225 No. 581.—BEEFSTEAKS A LA FRANCAISE. These are cut from that part of a rump or sirloin of beef which is called the fillet—better known to most English people by the apellation of “ the under-cut from a sirloin :"--for this purpose procure about a pound and a half of fillet of beef; pare off all sinew and excess of fat; cut the fillet in slices about half an inch thick, and season them on a plate, with a little oil, pepper and salt; broil on both sides a little under-done; dish them up with maître-d'hôtel butter, No. 127, under them; gar- nish round with fried potatoes; glaze the beefsteaks, and serve before the butter is melted. · No. 582.—BEEFSTEAK A LA CHATEAUBRIAND. In this case the fillet, when trimmed, should be cut in slices an inch thick, seasoned with oil, pepper and salt, grilled with their gravy pouring from them when dished up, garnished with mushrooms au gratin, No. 676, and périgueux sauce poured over them. No. 583.—BEEFSTEAKS WITH ANCHOVY BUTTER. Prepare the fillet steaks--and broil them as directed in No. 581, and when dished up, place anchovy butter, No. 128, under them; fried potatoes in the centre; glaze the steaks, and serve. No. 584.--EPICUREAN BEEFSTEAK. Prepare the fillet steaks as shown in No. 582; dish them up with epicurean butter, No. 130, under them; pour truffle sauce, No. 65, over them; garnish round with oval slices of potatoes fried, and serve. No. 585.—-FILLETS OF BEEF A LA SOUBISE. These are prepared as in No. 581 ; and previously to dishing them up, some Soubise sauce, No. 58, should be piled in the centre of the dish; and the grilled fillets of 226 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND beef being neatly placed round this, pour a little half- glaze round the dish, and serve. Note.—Fillets of beef, or steak-fillets, prepared as directed in No. 581, may also be served with all kinds of dressed vegetables as a garnish; or with any of the under-named sauces; viz., tomata, piquante, Provençale oyster, Lyonnaise, mushroom, &c. - No. 586.—CALF'S HEAD AND BACON. The half of a calf's head is generally considered enough for any ordinary purpose : this should be first well soaked in cold water for an hour or so, parboiled in water with salt for twenty minutes, and then placed in a stewpan with an onion stuck with six cloves, carrot, celery, garnished faggot of parsley, a bit of mace, and a good tablespoonful of salt, a little chopped suet and the pulp of a lemon; moisten with enough water to let the calf's head swim, and set the whole to boil gently for about an hour and a half; and when done, place the head on its dish, cut the tongue in collops, and place these at one end, the brains (having been prepared as in No. 566) at the other end, and some small rashers of fried bacon in the flanks of the dish; pour some parsley sauce, No. 48, over the calf's head, and serve. No. 587.—CALF'S HEAD HASHED. The calf's head for hashing must be prepared in the first instance as directed in the foregoing case; or, as it may happen, the remains of a calf's head dressed for a previous day's dinner, will do equally as well for hashing. In either case, the head must be cut in neatly- trimmed pieces, about the size and form of a five-shilling piece, and placed in a stewpan. Next, chop six shalots and put this in a stewpan with a tablespoonful of Crosse and Blackwell's Indian Chutnee, and a wineglassful of vinegar; boil this down to half its original quantity; then add a pint of the stock in which the calfs head HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 227 has been boiled, two ounces of glaze, and an ounce of butter kneaded with an ounce and a half of flour; stir this sauce over the fire to boil for a quarter of an hour, and then strain it to the pieces of calfs head; add a little browning to give it a rich colour; simmer all together for ten minutes; pile up the pieces of calf's head in the centre of the dish; garnish round with fried eggs and Indian gherkins; pour the sauce over the whole, and serve. No. 588.—CALF'S HEAD BROILED. Boil half a calf's head as shown in No. 586; and when done, take it out of its stock, and set it in a cool place to become half cold. Next, place the head on a greased baking-dish; rub two yolks of raw eggs all over the surface; sprinkle thickly some fried bread-crumbs, No. 296; upon this pour a little of the stock on the dish to keep the head moist; sprinkle an ounce of dissolved butter over the crumbing; push the dish containing the head in the oven to bake for about twenty minutes, and when quite hot, place it on its dish; garnish it with the tongue, brains, and small slices of fried bacon; sauce round with piquante sauce, No. 22, and serve. No. 589.—CALF'S HEAD A LA FINANCIERE. Bone the calf's head, and after it has been parboiled in water with salt for twenty minutes, and has cooled, cut it up into pieces about two inches in diameter, or square; trim these neatly, and boil them with the same vegetables, &c., as recommended in No. 586 ; and when done, dish up the head as follows: viz.,—skin, trim, and split the tongue, and lay it flat in the centre of the dish : at each end of this place the ears (previously scraped and curled); set the brains on the tongue, and dress the pieces of head in close rows all round ; pour a Financière ragout, No. 104, over the dish, and serve. 228 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 590.—CALF'S HEAD, TURTLE FASHION. Let the calf's head be prepared as in the foregoing case, with this difference, that a bunch of turtle herbs, consisting of basil, marjoram, lemon-thyme, and a little pennyroyal, together with six shalots, should be added. The stock may be used, with the addition of some glaze and madeira to make the sauce, as directed in No. 12, and when finished, should be strained into a bainmarie stewpan (see Adams' Illustrations). When about to send to table, dish up the calf's head, as shown in the preceding number, garnish with deco rated quenelles, mushrooms, and crayfish; pour the sauce over all, and serve. No. 591.—HARICOT OF OX-TAIL. Divide the ox-tail at the joints, which are indicated by a semi-transparent spot on the sinews which connect the joints; parboil them in water for ten minutes, and trim away all asperities, so as to give the pieces a smooth, rounded appearance; put them in a stewpan with carrot, celery, faggot of parsley, an onion stuck with six cloves, a bit of mace, a dozen peppercorns, a spoonful of salt, and two quarts of water; boil very gently for two hours, and when the pieces are become quite tender, take them up on a dish, and set them aside. Strain the stock into a stewpan, remove all grease from its surface, stir in four ounces of brown thickening, No. 9; add about half a pound of shaped carrots, the same of turnips, and eight middle-sized onions; season with pepper and salt; allow the whole to boil very gently until the vegetables are done, and then remove them carefully into a stewpan already containing the pieces of ox-tail; skim the sauce; boil it down if too thin; add a lump of sugar; strain it to the ox-tail, &c.; allow the haricot to simmer for ten minutes over the fire, and serve neatly in its dish. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 224 No. 592.—OX-TAIL WITH STEWED PEAS. Stew the ox-tail as directed in No. 591, and when done, remove the pieces into a clean stewpan; strain their stock, free it from grease, and boil it down to thin glaze : add this to the pieces of tail. When about to send to table, warm the ox-tail in its glaze ; arrange the pieces in a circle on the dish; garnish the centre with stewed peas, No. 690; pour the glaze round the base of the ox-tail, and serve. Note.—Ox-tails prepared as above may also be served with dressed spinach, Jardinière, Macédoine, or any other kind of dressed vegetable. No. 593.—OX-TAIL BREADED AND GRILLED. First braize the ox-tail; and when done, and cold, trim the pieces neatly; season them with chopped parsley and shalot, pepper and salt; egg and bread- crumb them, and after having sprinkled each piece with clarified butter, bread-crumb them again ; place the pieces of ox-tail on a sautapan containing an ounce of butter; push in the oven for about twenty minutes to bake them of a light-golden brown, and when done, dish them up with shalot gravy. No. 64. Note.—Ox-tails, prepared as above, may also be served with Tartar sauce, No. 38. No. 594.--BREAST OF MUTTON GRILLED. A breast of mutton intended for braizing should be first neatly and securely tied with string, like a large paper parcel when it is corded several times across : this operation is needed to prevent the breast from falling to pieces when done, and while it is being taken up, which, from the necessity of its over-braizing, in order to render it mellow, would be the case. The breast of mutton being thus corded, let it be braized in some stock garnished with a small complement of vegetables, &c.; and when done quite tender, take it up by the 230 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND string carefully on to a dish ; pull out all the bones place another dish on the breast to press it smooth without smashing it; and as soon as cold, cut it into oblong, square, or heart-shaped cutlets : all excess of fat should be pared away; the cutlets should be very lightly scored in diamond tracing, seasoned with pepper and salt, dipped in dissolved butter, and well crumbed over; the crumbing being closely patted on each breast-cutlet with a knife. When about to send to table, grill the cutlets on both sides of a light colour; dish up, and sauce round with piquante, tomata, Italian, or any other kind of sauce best suited to your taste or convenience. No. 594a.—IRISH STEW. Cut up about four pounds of either neck or loin of mutton into eight or ten neatly trimmed chops, paring away all excess of fat and rough bone ; season plentifully with pepper, and moderately with salt; place the chops in a deep stewpan or saucepan, with sufficient water to cover in their surface, add eight good sized onions, put the lid on and set the whole on the fire to stew gently for half an hour; the stew must then be removed from the fire, the liquor poured into a basin, and after being freed from all grease, is to be poured back to the chops ; add a dozen peeled potatoes, and a pint of good stock or gravy, if handy, or failing that, (in case that the moisture has been reduced to half its ori- ginal quantity) a like quantity of water will do. The whole is then to be placed on the fire to boil gently for about three quarters of an hour, due care being taken that the moisture does not be come wholly absorbed by the stew, or burnt at the bottom of the stewpan, as this latter accident would entirely spoil the dish. As soon as the Irish stew is done, let it be dished up as follows, viz.: first remove the potatoes carefully on to a plate, and then use a fork and spoon to place the cutlets or chops neatly round the dish, add the potatoes in their centre, and pour the gravy and onions, &c., over the whole, and serve hot. NOTE.- A less expensive method of making Irish stew, is to use the scrag end of a neck of mutton, or indeed any inferior pieces of meat niost convenient, as well as the remains of a cooked joint of beef, mutton, or veal. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 231 CHAPTER XIV. ENTREES OF SUPERIOR CLASS. No. 595.—OX-PALATES A LA FLORENTINE. The ox-palates must be soaked in water with a good handful of salt for several hours, being frequently handled to extract the mucus ; they must next be par- boiled in water with salt until the horny cuticle or skin which covers the roof part is easily scraped off. When thoroughly cleansed, they are to be put in a stewpan with carrot, onion, celery, faggot of parsley, six cloves, mace and peppercorns, a clove of garlic, an ounce of salt, and three quarts of water or stock, and boiled very gently for about four hours: when done quite tender, they are to be put in press between two dishes until cold. The best part of the palates should then be stamped out with a circular tin cutter the size of a crown-piece, and put in a stewpan with some of their stock previously boiled down to glaze : the trimmings, together with ham, and the addition of any other meat most convenient, are to be made into Polpetti, No. 354, crumbed, and fried, and dished up alternately with the palates; place some macaroni à la Milanaise, No. 126, in the centre; pour Italian, or any other brown sauce, round the base of the entrée, and serve. No. 596.—OX-PALATES CURRIED. Cleanse and braize the palates, as in the preceding case, and when done, pressed and cold, cut each in 232 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND square or oblong pieces, and put them into a stewpan, with sufficient curry sauce, No, 85, for the purpose ; make it hot, and serve the curried ox-palates in a border of plain rice. No. 597.—MUTTON CUTLETS A LA SOUBISE. Trim a neck of mutton, and divide it into cutlets, according to directions given in No. 555; place the cutlets in neat order in a sautapan with an ounce of butter, pepper and salt: fry them brown on both sides alike; shake an ounce of flour over and about the cutlets; moisten with a wineglassful of catsup and half a pint of stock or water; stir or rather move the whole over the fire until it boils, and allow it to stew gently for about twenty minutes; the cutlets should then be dished up in a circle, some thick onion or Soubise sauce, No. 58, piled up in the centre, and after all grease and scum have been removed from the sauce, and it has been boiled down to a proper consistency, pour it round the cutlets, and serve. No. 598.—MUTTON CUTLETS A LA VICOMTESSE. Trim, season, and fry the cutlets as in the preceding number; and when done on both sides, add chopped mushrooms, a little cooked ham, or lean of bacon, parsley and shalots ; season with nutmeg, pepper and salt, the juice of a lemon, and a good pinch of sugar; add a good tablespoonful of flour, moisten with half a pint of stock, and an ounce of glaze; stir the sauce on the fire until it has boiled for twenty minutes, and has become reduced to a satisfactory consistency or thick- ness. About four raw yolks of eggs must then be added, and quickly stirred in with the sauce over the fire to bind it; the cutlets and sauce should now be allowed to cool partially, and then each cutlet must be covered and smoothed over with some of the sauce, and placed flat on a dish to become cold and set firm, so as to enable you to egg and bread-crumb them; place the cutlets HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER S ASSISTANT. 233 fatly in order in a frying-basket (see Adams' Illustra- tions); immerse them in hot lard, and having fried them of a light-brown colour, dish them up with a small paper frill on the bone of each cutlet; garnish the centre with any kind of dressed vegetable; pour some sauce round the base, and serve. No. 599.—MUTTON CUTLETS A LA REFORME. Having trimmed the cutlets, let them be bread crumbed by first dipping them in beaten eggs, and then bread-crumbing them with equal parts of dried bread- crumbs and finely-chopped lean of cooked ham mixed together: the cutlets must then be fried on both sides, and when thoroughly done, are to be dished up in a circle, the centre garnished with reform chips, No. 103 ; pour some reform sauce, No. 28, over the cutlets, and serve. No. 600.—MUTTON CUTLETS A LA PROVENCALE. First, chop about six large onions fine and put them into a stewpan with a small piece of garlic, two ounces of butter, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and the juice of a lemon ; put the lid on the stewpan, and set it to simmer very gently over a very slow fire, until the onions are quite done, without being fried brown: four yolks of eggs must then be added to bind the onions into a thick kind of paste. Meanwhile your cutlets having been sea- soned and fried, or rather sautéed, as it would be most properly termed, cover the one side of each cutlet about half an inch thick with the preparation of onions, &c.; smooth the surface with a knife; egg it over with a brush; sprinkle fried bread-crumbs and grated Par- mesan cheese, mixed in equal proportions all over the cutlets; place them in neat order on a buttered sauta- pan; add a spoonful of gravy by way of moisture under the cutlets; push them in the oven for ten minutes, and when hot, dish them up in a circle; garnish their centre with potatoes scooped out in the shape of small balls and fried; pour some good gravy round the base, and serve. 234 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 601.—FILLETS OF MUTTON. ROEBUCK FASHION. Remove the fillet or meaty part wholly from the spinal bones of a loin of mutton; and then, having pared away all the fat and sinew, divide it across in two equal parts; again subdivide these lengthwise each into four fillets; if properly cut, they will not require trimming. The fillets must be closely larded, and pickled for some Lours in a marinade, No. 299; and afterwards drained, and placed in rows on butter in a sautapan, with a gill of their clear pickle, and set in a sharp oven to bake for about a quarter of an hour; when done, they must be salamandered over, (the larding quickly run down over the fire to cause the fillets to absorb all their gravy,) glazed, and dished up in a circle, garnished with French Loans, green peas, or fried potatoes, sauced with chêvreuil sauce, No. 29, and served. No. 602.—FILLETS OF MUTTON A LA JARDINIERE. These are prepared as indicated in the preceding number, and when dished up, should be garnished with a Jardiniere in the centre, and some brown sauce incorpo- rated with the gravy in which the fillets have been braized (and freed from grease) should be poured round the fillets. No. 603.—ESCALOPES OF MUTTON WITH FINE-HERBS. The chump-end of a loin of mutton may be turned to account for this purpose, by first cutting off all the meat in thin slices, and then dividing these into neatly- trimmed collops, and placing them in rows in a sautapan containing an ounce of dissolved butter ; season with pepper and salt, fry them quickly over a brisk fire until browned on both sides, then add a tablespoonful of flour, some chopped mushrooms, parsley and shalot, the juice of half a lemon, a spoonful of catsup, and a gill of stock or water; stir altogether over the fire for five HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 235 minutes; pile up the escalopes in the centre of the dish; garnish round with potato croquets or sippets of toasted bread, and serve. No. 604.—VEAL CUTLETS A LA FINANCIERE. About six bones of the best end of a neck of veal will be required for this purpose; the chine-bone must first be removed with a small saw, and also the upper part of the cutlet or rib-bones, leaving the bones intended to form the cutlets only about three inches long: the cutlets must then be divided, trimmed, and closely larded. Next, garnish the bottom of a fricandeau-pan (see Adams' Illustrations) with sliced carrot, onion, celery, a garnished faggot of parsley, and an onion stuck with six cloves; place the larded cutlets on this bed of vegetables, with their bones all pointing to the centre of the pan; moisten with stock or water, just enough to reach up to the edge of the larding; cover with a buttered round of paper; set the pan on the fire to boil, and then push it in the oven to braize for about an hour and a half, basting the cutlets frequently with their own liquor; and when they are nearly done, sala- mander (see Adams' Illustrations) the larding, glaze it, and dish up the cutlets in the reversed position—that is, with the bones under, thus showing the larded part uppermost: use the strained stock from the cutlets to make the sauce for the Financière, No. 104; garnish and sauce the entrée. No. 605.—VEAL CUTLETS A LA MAINTENON. These may be cut either from the neck, or from a pound or more of what is termed veal cutlet; the cutlets must be seasoned and fried brown on both sides, and finished with fine-herbs, &c., in exactly the same manner as cutlets a la Vicomtesse, No. 598, with this exception, that instead of bread-crumbing them, they are to be en- cased in papers, as follows: viz., -take as many sheets of writing-paper as you have prepared outlets, and by cut- 236 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND ting off the outer angles with scissors, give them some- thing of a heart-shape, remembering that they must be sufficiently large to enfold the cutlets; oil these papers on both sides; place a cutlet masked with a sufficiency of its sauce so as entirely to cover it all over inside the paper, overlapping it with the upper half, and then neatly and tightly fold or rather twist in the edges of the paper in order effectually to prevent the sauce from escaping while the cutlet is being broiled. About a quarter of an hour before sending to table, place the cutlets on a baking-sheet slightly oiled, push them in a rather sharp oven to remain there until their envelopes become lightly browned, and the cutlets are thoroughly warmed; dish them up with fried parsley in the centre, and serve. These cutlets may also be grilled. No. 606.—VEAL CUTLETS A LA RUSSE. These cutlets must first be fried on both sides, each cutlet is to be covered on one side only with a pre- paration made with horseradish, &c., see No. 92, made with three sticks of horseradish instead of one as therein stated, the preparation to be laid on half an inch thick, egged over and crumbed with a mixture of grated cheese and fried bread-crumbs: the cutlets are to be placed in a circular row on a buttered sautapan, with a couple of spoonfuls of gravy under them, pushed in a sharp oven for ten minutes to make them perfectly hot; dish them up, garnish the centre with any kind of dressed vege- table ; pour some thin tomata sauce round the base of the entrée, and serve. No. 607.—SWEETBREADS A LA TOULOUSE. Soak the sweetbreads in water for a couple of hours to extract all the blood; parboil them for five minutes just to set them firm, and after being cooled in water, trim and lard them closely; place them in a deep sautapan on a thin bed of sliced carrot, onion, celery; moisten with just enough stock to reach up to the commence- HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTIER'S ASSISTANT. 237 ment of the larding, push them in a rather sharp oven to braize for about twenty-minutes, basting them fre- quently with their own liquor ; and when done, sala- mandered, and glazed, dish them up against a pile of four quenelles, placed in an angular form by forming the angle with three, and placing the fourth in their centre; garnish round the sweetbreads with Toulouse ragout, No. 125, and serve. No. 608.—SWEETBREADS A LA VILLEROI. Parboil the sweetbreads for ten minutes, with a little salt in the water, and when done and cooled, cut them in slices a quarter of an inch thick; trim these neatly without waste; dip each with a fork in some stiffly-re- duced Allemande sauce, No. 17, and place them in rows on a baking-sheet upon rough ice to become firmly set; they must now be egged, crumbed, placed in order in a frying-basket, fried in hot lard, of a light-brown colour, dished up in a circular row, the centre garnished with any kind of dressed vegetable, some thin sauce poured round the base; then send to table. No. 609.—TENDONS OF VEAL AND SPINACH. That part of the calf which is called tendons, consists, in point of fact, of the gristly portion of the breast-bone which has not yet become hardened into bone; this is situated towards the thick edge of the breast of veal. After having first removed the meat from the tendons, cut them straight along the end of the rib-bones, leaving the flap of meat on to the ribs : next, slice off such portion of the breast-bone as may have become formed into bone, divide the tendon or gristle part into square pieces the size of a cutlet; place these in a stew- pan on a bed of carrots, onions, turnips, celery, garnished faggot of parsley, six cloves, a few peppercorns, and a little salt; moisten with sufficient stock or water to let them swim; put the lid on, and set them to braize very gently on a slow fire for about four hours. When thu 238 THE COOR'S GUIDE, AND tendons are done through, which will be perceptible by ascertaining that their gristle has become almost transparent and comparatively soft to the probe of a fork, they must be carefully removed with a small skimmer, one by one, and being placed between two earthen dishes, set in the larder to become partially cold, in order that they may be neatly trimmed, placed in a sautapan with their own liquor (previously freed from grease, and boiled down to glaze). Make them hot, roll them in their glaze; dish them up in a circular row; garnish the centre with dressed spinach; pour the re- mainder of their glaze round the base, and serve. Note.— Tendons of veal may also be served with stewed peas, or any other vegetable garnish. No. 610.—CURRIED TENDONS OF VEAL. Braize the tendons as directed in the preceding case, and use their stock to make some curry sauce, No. 85; put the tendons in this to simmer for awhile; dish them up with fried bacon in between each tendon ; pour the sauce over the entrée, and serve plain boiled rice in a dish separately. No. 611.—LAMB CUTLETS A LA PRINCESSE. Trim and fry the cutlets in the usual manner; and when become partially cold, dip each cutlet up to the bone, in some stiffy-reduced Allemande sauce strongly flavoured with mushrooms; each cutlet as it is dipped to be afterwards placed flat on a baking-sheet upon rough ice to set the sauce quite firm on the cutlets; they are then to be egged, crumbed, fried in hot lard, and being dished up, are to be garnished with a purée of green asparagus, or asparagus peas, and some suprême or any other white sauce poured round the base, HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 239 No. 612.-LAMB CUTLETS A LA DUCHESSE. 2 SID:40 RO 359SA OX Sao Me CUTLETS OY LAMB À LA DUCHESSE. These are prepared in the first instance as in the pre- ceding case, and are to be dipped in D'uxelles sauce, No. 75, and when this has become firmly set upon them, let them be egged, crumbed, fried, and dished up on a vegetable border as represented in the woodcut; the centre to be garnished with a purée of green peas, or a Jardinière, and some supreme sauce poured round the base. No. 613.—LAMB'S SWEETBREADS LARDED. These are prepared and served in the manner de- scribed in No. 607, bearing in mind that being smaller, ten minutes' braizing will suffice to do them. No. 614.—LAMB'S SWEETBREADS SCOLLOPED. First blanch—that is, parboil the lamb's breads for five minutes to set them firm; drain and put them on a plate until cold, slice them in small scollops, fry them with an ounce of butter in a sautapan, season with nutmeg, pepper and salt, the juice of half a lemon; shake in a tablespoonful of flour, and some sliced button : 240 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND mushrooms, moisten with a gill of cream, move the whole gently over the fire to simmer for a few minutes, then add two raw yolks of eggs; mix well and gently, and use this to fill a vol-au-vent, rice border, or else some small scollop-shells or paper cases; the latter are to be covered over with fried bread-crumbs, and after being made hct in the oven, are to be salamandered unless already sufficiently coloured. No. 615.-SUPREME OF FOWL A LA ROYALE. موبی SUPRÉME OF FOWL À LA BOYALE Trim the fillets of two fowls—which, by making use of the reversed skins of the large fillets to envelope the minion or smaller ones, will produce eight fillets; these are to be placed in a sautapan in clarified butter, seasoned with a little salt, and covered with a round of buttered paper; and about ten minutes before dinner- time, are to be placed on the fire just the time required to set them,—that is, as soon as the under part of the fillets begins to whiten, they must be removed from the fire, and being turned, and replaced on the fire again, must—as soon as they are also whitened on that side, be drained, trimmed and dished up on a border of vegetables, No. 523 (already turned out on its dish), a ring of truffle or tongue placed on each fillet, th> KOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 241 centre of the entrée filled with a Macédoine of vege. tables, No. 101, and some supreme poured round the base. No. 616.— FILLETS OF FOWLS WITH ASPARAGUS PEAS. Trim the fillets of fowls, and finish them as in the preceding case; and when done, roll them in a little suprême sauce; dish them up alternately with similar pieces of red tongue; fill the centre of the entrée with dressed asparagus peas; pour some of the sauce round the base, and serve. No. 617.—ESCALOPES OF FOWL AND CUCUMBER. Remove the fillets from two fowls, simmer them in a little clarified butter and salt, until they become white and are done through; they must then be drained, cut into collops, put into some ready-prepared cucumber ragout, No. 109, made hot, and piled up in the centre of the dish, garnished round with fleurons or potato cro- quets, and served. No. 618.—CHICKEN CUTLETS A LA DAUPHINE. These are made with the legs of fowls—the fillets of which have been used for preparing a suprême; and thus, that entrée becomes less expensive. The legs being cut from the carcasses of the fowls, must be freed from the thigh-bone, leaving the leg—or what is termed the drumstick-bone—in its place; these legs of fowls must next be gently braized in some seasoned stock until quite tender, and then taken up, placed in press between two dishes, and when quite cold, trimmed in the form of cutlets, dipped in some reduced Allemande sauce, and placed on a baking-sheet upon rough ice to become set firm; they must then be egged, crumbed, fried in hot lard, and when drained and dished up, garnished with any description of dressed vegetable, sauced round with Béchamel, and served. 242 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 619.—LEGS OF FOWLS A LA WELLINGTON. In this case also the legs of fowls whose fillets have already been used will serve the purpose: the legs, wings, and back-bones should be separated and neatly trimmed, placed in a deep sautapan with two table- spoonfuls of salad-oil, a sprig of thyme one bay-leaf, a clove of garlic, a little pepper and salt. Fry the mem- bers of fowls over a sharp fire until they are done of a light-brown colour, and then, after removing the bay. leaf and thyme, shake in two tablespoonfuls of flour, and one of Crosse and Blackwell's Indian Chutnee; stir all together, moisten with half a pint of good gravy, simmer the whole over the fire for ten minutes, and serve. No. 620.-FRICASSÉE OF CHICKENS A LA HAVELOCK. home FRICASSEB OF CHICKENS A LA FAVELOCK. A couple of chickens are required for this dish; when they have been drawn and singed, remove the legs and wings, and then, with the point of a knife, slit the skin of the breast, spread it off the fillets, and remove these with the pinion-bone left on them. Each fillet must be trimmed, then closely larded, and placed in a small HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 243 sautapan spread with butter, and moistened with a little good stock; the four minion fillete should be decorated with tongue, turned round in a ring, and set in clari- fied butter in another small sautapan :the legs, wings, and the four halves of the back-bones must be put in a stewpan with sliced onion, carrot, celery, a garnished faggot of parsley, a bit of mace, peppercorns and salt. Moisten with a quart of good stock; boil gently for twenty minutes; strain this stock into a stewpan con- taining two ounces of butter and the same of flour well kneaded together, and a handful of peelings of clean mushrooms; stir this sauce over the fire to boil for twenty minutes; then add a leason of four yolks of eggs and half a gill of cream, a little nutmeg and lemon- juice, and a good pinch of sugar; stir the sauce again over the fire merely to set the leason, without allowing it to boil; and strain it through a pointed tin strainer (see Adams' Illustrations), on to the trimmed legs, &c., of the chickens, already contained in a small stewpan; add a few button mushrooms, truffles, and cocks' combs. About twenty minutes before dinner-time, warm the fricassee without boiling; neatly arrange the members in a pile on the dish; dispose the larded fillets and also the small decorated fillets (previously braized and glazed) in symmetrical order on the top of the entrée, garnish with groups of the truffles, mushrooms, and cocks' combs, as exemplified in the annexed woodcut, and serve. No. 621.—CHICKENS A LA INKERMANN. Out up two chickens into members or joints,—that is, divide the legs, wings, and fillets with the pinion-bones left on, the breasts and back-bones having been divided each in two pieces ; let these be trimmed, removing the thigh-bones from the legs; fry the whole in a deep sauta- pan with half a gill of oil, a bay-leaf and thyme, a clove of garlic, a pinch of cayenne and salt; and when done of a light-brown colour, remove the bay leaf and thyme, R 2 244 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND pour off the oil, add four ounces of Crosse and Black. well's conserve of tomatas, an ounce of glaze, a spoonful of Captain White's curry paste, and two glasses of white wine; simmer all together over the fire for ten minutes; dish up in a pile, garnish with fried eggs and small pieces of ham; pour the sauce over the entrée, and serve. No. 622.—CHICKENS A LA TARTARE. Draw, singe, trim, and split the chickens into halves ; season with pepper and salt, and fry them in a sautapan with butter until done on both sides; they must then be put in press between two dishes until half cold, - when they are to be egged and crumbed all over, sprinkled with clarified butter, and crumbed over again. About twenty minutes before dinner-time, broil the halves of chicken over a clear fire, of a light-golden brown, place them on a dish containing cold Tartar sauce, No. 38; garnish round with pickles, and serve. Note. All kinds of meats or fish prepared as above are excellent when served as herein indicated. No. 623.—GRILLED FOWL WITH PUREE OF MUSHROOMS. Remove the legs, or rather the feet, from a fowl; force the drumsticks inside, and split it down the back; spread it open; season with pepper and salt; put it in a covered pan with two ounces of butter, and set it to fry slowly over a moderate heat; and when done through, and of a light-brown colour, let it be glazed and placed on some purée of mushrooms, and served. The purée of mushrooms is prepared as follows: viz.,—chop fine a good handful of clean mushrooms, and put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon; stir this over the fire for five minutes, and then add the crumb of a French roll soaked in milk and a gill of cream; stir all together over the fire to boil for ten minutes, HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER 8 ASSISTANT. 245 and then rub the purée through a tammy or sieve, and put it in a small stewpan for use. No. 624.—BOILED FOWLS A LA CARDINAL. Remove all the breast-bone from two chickens; stufi them with chicken or veal forcemeat, No. 185; truss them as for boiling; envelope them in buttered papers tied up with string; boil them for about twenty-five minutes, more or less, according to their size; and when done, remove the strings, dish them up, garnish with decorated quenelles and truffles, pour some cardinal sauce, No. 62, over the chickens, and serve. No. 625.—CHICKENS OR FOWLS A LA ROMAINE. Truss two small chickens as for boiling, and put them in a stewpan with a clove of garlic, bay-leaf and thyme, half a gill of salad-oil, a pinch of cayenne and salt; cover the stewpan, and set it over a slow fire to simmer gently, taking care to turn the chickens over frequently, so as to colour them equally of a light-brown all over alike ; and when done, remove the bay-leaf and thyme; pour off the oil; add some conserve of tomatas, a piece of glaze, a glass of madeira, some truffles and the juice of a lemon ; simmer altogether over the fire for ten minutes; dish up the chickens with the truffles and sauce, and serve dressed macaroni separately. No. 626.--BOUDINS OF PHEASANT A LA RICHELIEU. Fare off all the flesh from a pheasant, and use it to prepare some forcemeat as described in No. 185, and finish it by incorporating therewith about two table- spoonfuls of brown purée of onions; use the carcass of the pheasant to prepare some Richelieu sauce as shown in No. 63. Roll out the forcemeat with flour on the table in the form of oval cutlets, measuring about two and a half inches long by one and a half wide and a quarter of an inch thick; and as you shape these boudins, drop them carefully into some nearly boiling 246 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND water with salt, --remembering that they must not boil, as that would spoil them in a measure :—when done, drain the boudins on a cloth until cold, and then after edging them over, bread-crumb and fry them in clarified butter in a sautapan; and when done, and dished up, sauce them with the Richelieu sauce prepared as indi- cated above. No. 627.—BOUDINS OF FOWL A LA LUCULLUS. evo Toupit CROUSTADE OF QUENRLLES. With all the meaty part of a fowl, prepare some forcemeat as directed in No. 185; and when finished, incorporate therewith two spoonfuls of purée of mush- rooms, and use this to form some quenelles with table- spoons, filling the centre of each quenelle with small pellets of purée of truffiles ; the quenelles are to be poached in the usual way in boiling water, and when done, are to be drained, and dished up in a crôustade as represented in the annexed woodcut; some Allemande sauce is to be poured over the quenelles, and a border of truffiles placed round the base. No. 628.—BOUDINS OF GROUSE A LA STANLEY. Prepare some forcemeat with a couple of grouso sus HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 247 directed in No. 185, reserving the carcasses to make some salmis sauce, No. 68. Finish the forcemeat by incorporating therewith two spoonfuls of stiffly-reduced salmis sauce; form the boudins with two tablespoons- introducing small pellets of croquet preparation, No. 315, composed of truffle, tongue, and mushrooms, seasoned with chopped chives ; and when the boudins have been poached, drained, and become cold, they are to be masked over with some reduced salmis sauce finished with three yolks of eggs, egged, crumbed, and fried in hot lard ; they are then to be dished up with a ragout composed of artichoke bottoms, and the remainder of the salmis sauce is to be poured round the base. No. 629.—QUENELLES OF FOWL A LA SUPREME. Prepare some chicken forcemeat with the flesh of a fowl, as indicated in. No. 185, and finish it by incor porating therewith two spoonfuls of good Allemande sauce, No. 17: with two tablespoons form this forcemeat into quenelles, and poach them in the ordinary way; when done, dish them up in a circle; pour some su- preme sauce, No. 15, over and round them, and garnish the centre with green peas, or asparagus peas, Macédoine, truffles, mushrooms, &c. No. 630.—PHEASANT A LA ST. GEORGE. Divide a pheasant into members or joints, making two fillets with the pinion-bone left on; the legs to be divided, making drumstick and thigh-joints; the back and breast to be cut each in two pieces. Fry these in a stewpan with a little oil, garlic, thyme, bay-leaf, chopped mushrooms, truffles, parsley, pepper and salt, over a sharp fire until half done; then add half a gill of any kind of thick sauce, and the juice of half a lemon · boil the whole quickly over the fire for five minutes to reduce the sauce, tossing or moving the pan the whole time to prevent the pheasant from attaching and burn- ing. You then remove the thyme and bay-leaf; take 248 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND up the joints of pheasant on to a flat dish; add three yolks of eggs to the sauce; stir this over the fire quickly so as to set the sauce smoothly, and use it to mask the joints evenly with a covering of it about the thickness of a penny-piece, and 'set them to become cold. A quarter of an hour before dinner-time, dip each joint of pheasant separately in some frying batter, No. 290, and fry them in very hot lard, of a light colour, and per- fectly crisp; dish them up; garnish with tomatas an gram tin; pour some truffle sauce round the base, and serve. · No. 631.—PHEASANT A LA GUDEWIFE. Truss a pheasant as for boiling, and put it in a stew- pan with half a pound of ham cut in square pieces; fry together over a moderate fire, and when the pheasant is browned all over, add four sliced Spanish onions, pepper and salt, and a spoonful of Chutnee; put the lid on, and set the whole to simmer gently for about three-quarters of an hour, by which time the pheasant will be done and the onions reduced to a pulp; place the pheasant on its dish; stir the onions on the fire to give the sauce some consistency by further reduction if needed, and then pour it over the pheasant, and serve. No. 632.—SALMIS OF PHEASANT. Boast off a pheasant, and when done, set it to become partially cold; it must then be cut up in members or joints, and divested of its skin, neatly trimmed, and dished up; having used the trimmings to make some salmis sauce, No. 68, add either mushrooms or truffles, and pour it hot over the joints of pheasants. Note.—Salmis of all kinds of game are prepared alike, the trimmings being used for making the sauce. No. 633.—PARTRIDGES A LA BEARNAISE, Truss the partridges as for boiling; fry them in a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of oil, a clove of garlic, and a little salt; and when browned, add enough con- HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 249 serve of tomatas (Crosse and Blackwell's) to furnish sufficient sauce for the dish, an ounce of glaze, two glasses of white wine, and a good teaspoonful of sweet red Spanish pepper; simmer the whole together for ten minutes, and serve. Olives may be added. Note.--All kinds of game are excellent when dressed as above. No. 634.—STEWED PARTRIDGES, CELERY SAUCE. Truss and boil the partridges in some stock or water, seasoned with the usual complement of carrot, onion, &c., a little pepper and salt; use their liquor to prepare some celery sauce, No. 119; and when about to send to table, make the partridges hot in a little of their liquor reserved for the purpose ; dish them up with the purée of celery poured over them, and garnished round with potato croquets. Note.—Stewed pheasants, grouse, or rabbits may also be served as indicated above; and Soubise or onion sauce would be equally suitable for the purpose. No. 635.—GROUSE CUTLETS A LA GLENGARRY. Young birds only are fit for this purpose; they must be drawn, the legs cut off, the drumsticks tucked inside, singed, and split in halves : they must then be seasoned with pepper and salt, and fried in a sautapan with a piece of butter until browned on both sides ; shake in *a little flour, add a piece of glaze, and a spoonful of Oude sauce ; simmer together over the fire for ten minutes, and serve. Note.—All kinds of young game form a most delicious dish when cooked in this unpretending way. No. 636.--FILLETS OF PARTRIDGES A LA THACKERAY Take out the fillets of two partridges; and, having removed the thin skin which covers them, let them be simmered in a sautapan with a little butter, pepper and salt, until they are become set firm without being quite 250 THE COOR'« GUIDE, AND done thorough; they are then to be masked all over on both sides with D'Uxelles sauce, No 75, and as soon as the sauce has become set quite firm on the fillets, they should be egged and crumbed, and placed carefully in a wire frying-basket, to be fried in hot lard : as soon as they have acquired a light-brown colour, dish them up in a circle; garnish with small quenelles made with the meat from the legs of the partridges, No. 185, and pour round the base of the entrée some salmis sauce, No 68, made from the carcasses. Note.—The fillets of chickens, pigeons, or any kind of game may be advantageously dressed in the same way. No. 637.—FRICASSEE OF RABBIT. Skin, draw, wash and wipe thoroughly clean a young rabbit in good condition; and, having cut it into joints, place these in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, pepper and salt; set this on the fire to simmer, tossing it frequently to prevent the rabbit from acquiring any colour; and as soon as the pieces are become set firm, shake in two ounces of flour, two dozen peeled button onions, and as many mushrooms; toss all together; moisten with a glass of white wine, and a good half pint of stock or water; stir the fricassee over the fire till it boils, and set it by the side to continue gently simmering for about half an hour; and then, after re- moving the skin and grease, boil down the sauce if necessary to give it consistency; mix in a leason of three yolks of eggs and half a gill of cream ; season with a little nutmeg, a pinch of sugar, a few grains of cayenne, and the juice of half a lemon; be careful while setting the leason in the sauce over the fire that it does not boil, for that would cause it to curdle and decompose, and thus in a great measure spoil the dish. No. 638.—RABBIT A LA TARTARE. Having cleansed the rabbit, split the under part of the vent, run the knife through the sinews under the thighs, HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 251 open the breast so as to lay the rabbit out flat, and use two small wooden skewers to secure its shape; it must then be lightly fried in a sautapan with butter, pepper and salt, until three parts done; and as soon as become partially cold, it is to be egged and crumbed, sprinkled over with clarified butter, and crumbed again. Twenty minutes before sending to table push the rabbit in a sharp oven to colour it of a golden brown, and when done through, dish it up on some Tartare sauce, No. 38; garnish round with Piccallila, and serve. No. 639.—BOILED RABBIT AND BACON. When rabbits are intended to be boiled, they should be first well washed, and then soaked in milk and water for a couple of hours; indeed, hares, leverets, and rabbits when treated in this way for roasting are considerably improved by being thus rendered more juicy and tender. Truss the rabbit with two wooden skewers and string, so as to secure it in shape, boil it in just water enough to cover it; season with carrot, onion, garnished faggot of parsley, a bit of mace, a few peppercorns, and a little salt: about three-quarters to an hour will suffice to cook an ordinary-sized rabbit; and when done and dished up, pour either onion sauce or celery sauce, No. 119, over it; garnish it round with small strippets of fried bacon, and serve. No. 640.—RABBITS WITH FINE-HERBS. Cut up the rabbit into joints by cutting off the legs and shoulders; divide the back into four or five equal parts, and split the bead into halves; fry all these in a sautapan with butter until they are browned all over; shake in a good tablespoonful of flour, some chopped mushrooms, parsley, and shalots; season with pepper and salt, the juice of half a lemon, a glass of sherry and a gill of good gravy: toss the whole together over the fire to simmer gently for ten minutes, and serve. 252 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 641.—RABBIT FRIED IN BATTER. Cut up a rabbit into joints, and put them in a basin with a sliced onion, some sprigs of parsley, thyme and bay-leaf, a little pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of oil, and a tablespoonful of Crosse and Blackwell's ravigotte vinegar; allow the pieces of rabbit to remain in this seasoning for three hours, tossing it over occasionally to as to admit of its becoming thoroughly impregnated with its aroma. A quarter of an hour before dinner-time, dip each piece of rabbit in some frying batter, No. 290, and drop each successively into some very hot lard, to be fried of a light colour; and when the pieces are become crisp, drain and dish them up with fried parsley, and serve maître d'hôtel sauce, No. 32, separately. No. 642.—CURRIED RABBIT AND RICE. Cut a rabbit into joints, and fry them in a stewpan with half a pound of streaky bacon cut in square pieces; the bacon should be fried first, then add the rabbit, and when all is browned, add six onions sliced very thin, and two sour apples peeled and sliced ; sea- son with a clove of garlic and salt, and a large table- spoonful of Captain White's curry paste; put the lid on and set the whole to stew very gently over a slow fire for about three-quarters of an hour: when the rabbit is done quite tender, remove the pieces into another stewpan; shake in a little flour, add a piece of glaze and a gill of stock or water to the onions, &c., and stir the sauce over the fire for ten minutes; rub it through a tammy or hair sieve; pour it to the pieces of rabbits, warm altogether; dish up neatly, and serve plain rice separately. No. 643.—WOODCOCKS A LA CHASSEUR. Truss and roast the woodcocks before a brisk fire for about fifteen minutes, and then take them up on the dish : cut up the birds in the usual manner, by making HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S. ASSISTANT. 253 two fillets with the pinions left on, two legs, the breast, and the back; the skin must be left on, and the mem- bers should be but slightly trimmed. Remove the gizzards from the trail (which consists of the whole of the inside of the woodcocks), and put it in a mortar with a small pat of butter, a small piece of shalot, pepper and salt; pound altogether; rub it through a sieve on to a plate, and use this to spread on the upper side only of some heart-shaped crôutons or pieces of fried bread, and set them aside for use. Put the trimmings in a stewpan with half a pint of wine, four chopped shalots, a small sprig of thyme, an ounce of glaze, a wineglassful of mushroom catsup, and the juice of half a lemon; boil this for ten minutes ; strain it on to the pieces of woodcocks; warm them without boiling; dish up; place the crôutons round the entrée ; pour the sauce over it, and serve. The crôutons should of course be made hot, by pushing them in the oven for three minutes. Note.—Snipes are dressed in the same way. No. 644.—SNIPES A LA BONNE-BOUCHE. Roast off four snipes under-done, and set them aside on a dish. Prepare a small quantity of forcemeat, No. 188, using about six ounces of fowls' livers for the purpose ; and when ready, roll out one-half of the forcemeat with flour on the table in the form of a thick rope, and twirl this on the bottom of the dish in a complete circle ; flatten it all round slightly with the thumb to give it a level surface ; and then, after split- ting the snipes, and covering the inside part of each with a coating of the forcemeat a quarter of an inch thick, dish them up in a row on the circular border of forcemeat; cover the whole surface with a thin coat- ing of the forcemeat; smooth it over with a knife dipped in hot water; place a round of buttered paper on the top; push the entrée in a brisk oven for about twenty- five minutes to bake it, and when done through, absorb 254 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND any grease which may have oozed out with a napkin; pour some périgueux or truffle sauce over the snipes, and serve. No. 645.—WILD FOWL A LA CHASSEUR. This dish is eaten in greatest perfection, when pre- pared—or rather finished on the dinner-table. Let the wild fowl—of whichever kind it may consist—be roasted rather under-done before a brisk clear fire, be frequently basted with butter while roasting; and as soon as done, let it be sent to table with rich brown gravy: on the dinner-table—close to the carver—should be placed a deep silver dish on a spirit-of-wine burner, containing two glasses of port wine, one of cavice sauce, the juice of a lemon, a sprinkle of salt, and a pinch of cayenne; cut up the wild fowl, place the slices and joints in this; add the gravy, stir altogether, and hand round for the guests to help themselves. No. 646. – WILD FOWL, AMERICAN FASHION. These are prepared and finished as directed in the foregoing case, with the addition of some black-currant jelly. No. 647.--CIVET OF LEVERET. Cut up a leveret into joints, and put them on a plate; divide half a pound of streaky bacon (previously trimmed and soaked in water) into inch-square pieces, and having fried these in a stewpan, add the pieces of leveret and fry them brown; shake in four ounces of flour; moisten with a bottle of French red wine, at 14s. per dozen ; add half a pint of button onions, and an equal quantity of mushrooms, a garnished faggot of parsley, pepper, and salt; stir the civet on the fire till it boils, and set it by the side to continue gently sim- mering until the pieces of leveret are tender; remove the scum; dish up the civet; reduce the sauce if neces nary ; pour it over the entrée, and serve. HOUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 256 No. 648.—JUGGED HARE. Parboil a pound of streaky bacon for twenty minutes to extract the salt; cut it into inch squares; fry these in a stewpan, then add a hare cut into joints; fry these brown, shake in six ounces of flour, moisten with a quart of stock or water, two glasses of port wine, and a like quantity of catsup; add eight rather small onions, a pound of the red part of carrots cut into pieces of about an inch square and neatly shaped, half a pound of mushrooms, a garnished faggot of parsley, pepper and salt; stir altogether over the fire till it boils, and then set it by the side to simmer until the pieces of hare are tender; remove the scum, pour off the sauce into another stewpan to be further reduced by boiling if needed, to give it sufficient consistency, and strain it back to the jugged hare. Just before sending to table, add a glass of port wine and four ounces of currant jelly; make hot, and serve. No. 649.—BARON OF HARE, GERMAN FASHION. A baron of hare consists of the hind-quarters and loins, cut across just close to the shoulder-blades. This, after removing the thin pellicle or skin which covers the loins and the upper part of the thighs, should be closely larded, and placed in a deep sauta- pan with a pint of sour cream and a glass of vinegar, and seasoned with a little salt; it should then be put in the oven to bake for about three-quarters of an hour, taking care to baste it frequently with the cream, &c.; and when done tender, pass the red-hot salamander over the larding to render it crisp. Having dished up the baron of hare, pour two glasses of red French wine into the pan; add a large tablespoonful of red-currant jelly; stir all together over the fire for five minutes; strain it over the hare, and serve. 256 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 650.—WILD FOWL A LA BIGARRADE. Peel two oranges with a sharp knife, so as to remove the thin peel without any pith; shred this very finely, and parboil it in a little water for two minutes; drain it dry and put it in a small bainmarie stewpan with the strained juice of the two oranges, an ounce of good glaze, or the equivalent in good brown gravy, and a pinch of cayenne; boil together for two minutes, and serve this sauce in a sauce-boat with roast wild fowl or ducklings : a glass of port wine may be added for wild fowl. No. 651.—CAPILOTADA OF FOWL, &c. Any remains of dressed poultry, game, or wild fowl serve for this purpose. They should he cut up neatly in members or joints without waste, seasoned with pepper and salt, with a tablespoonful of flour shaken all over them, and put aside on a plate; chop fine about two tablespoonfuls of Piccalilla (Crosse and Black- well's) and four shalots, and put these in a stewpan with a glass of mushroom catsup, and an equal quantity of the liquor from the Piccalilla; boil down until reduced to half the original quantity, then add the pieces of fowl, or whatever the meat may consist of, a glass of sherry, and a gill of gravy; boil gently for a quarter of an hour, and serve. Olives, button mush. rooms, or truffles, may be added. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 257 CHAPTER XV. SECOND COURSE—ROASTS. No. 652.—ROAST HARE. Skin and draw the hare, leaving on the ears, which must be scalded, and the hairs scraped off; pick out the eyes, and cut off the feet or pads just above the first joint; wipe the hare with a clean cloth, and cut the sinews at the back of the hind-quarters and below the fore-legs. Prepare some veal or hare stuffing, and fill the paunch with it; sew. this up with string, or fasten it with a wooden skewer; then draw the legs under, as if the hare were in a sitting posture; set the head between the shoulders, and stick a small skewer through them, running also through the neck to secure its position ; run another skewer through the fore-legs gathered up under the paunch; then take a yard of string, double it in two, placing the centre of it on the breast of the hare, and bring both ends over the skewer; cross the string over both sides of the other skewer, and fasten it over the back. Spit the hare, and roast it before a brisk fire for about three-quarters of an hour, frequently basting it with butter or dripping. Five minutes before taking the hare up, throw on a little salt, shake some flour over it with a dredger, and baste it with some fresh butter; when this froths up and the hare has acquired a rich- brown crust, take it off the spit, dish it up with water- cresses round it, pour some brown gravy under, and send some currant jelly in a boat, to be handed round. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 259 hand across the breast, holding the legs erect; thrust the needle through the middle joint of both thighs, draw it out, and then pass it through the other pinion, and fasten the strings at the back; next, pass the needle through the hollow of the back, just below the thighs, thrust it again through the legs and body, and tie the strings tightly; this will give it an appearance of plumpness. Spit and roast the pheasant before a brisk fire for about half an hour, frequently basting it; when done, send to table with brown gravy under it, and bread sauce separately in a boat. No. 655.—ROAST PARTRIDGES. These should be trussed, roasted, and served in the same manner as pheasants. Sometimes, for the sake of variety, both pheasants and partridges are larded in the same way as sweetbreads, but the practice is not gene- rally liked. No. 656.—ROAST QUAILS. Draw and truss these in the manner directed for pheasants ; cut some thin square layers of fat bacon, just large enough to cover a quail, spread a vine-leaf over each of these, cut it to their size, and then tie them neatly on the breasts of the quails. Run an iron skewer through the quails, fasten this on to a spit, and roast them before a brisk fire for about a quarter of an hour; then dish them up with watercresses round them; glaze the layers of bacon ; pour some gravy under the quails, and serve. No. 657.—RUFFS AND REEVES. These birds must not be drawn, neither do they re- quire much trussing, being very plump; a small wooden skewer should be run through the thighs and pinions, with a string passed round it, and fastened; cover these also with a layer of bacon and a vine-leaf; run them upon a larkspit, and roast them before a brisk fire for about twenty minutes, frequently basting them with ve 2 200 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND butter, and set some toasted bread under them to receive their droppings. When done, dish them up on square pieces of the toast; garnish with watercresses; pour some gravy under them, and serve the following sauce sepa- rately in a boat:—a large spoonful of good butter-sauce, a piece of glaze, cayenne pepper, and lemon-juice. Ortolans and wheatears are served in the same man- ner as the foregoing. No. 658.—ROAST LARKS. Cut off the heads and legs, and pick out the gizzards at the sides with the point of a small knife; season with chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; rub the larks over with beaten yolks of eggs, bread-crumb them, sprinkle them with clarified butter, and roll them in bread crumbs a second time; then run them on a lark- spit, fasten this on a common spit, and roast them before a very brisk fire for about a quarter of an hour, basting them with fresh butter melted in a spoon before the fire. When done, dish them up in rows, or in a circle; fill the centre with bread-crumbs fried of a light-brown colour, in a sautapan with butter, and serve them with the sauce recommended for ruffs and rees. No. 659.—WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES. These are both trussed and roasted in the same man- ner. First pick them entirely, neck and head; then twist the legs at the joints, so as to bring the feet down upon the thighs; run their bill through the thighs and body, and fasten a noose with string round the bend of the joints, across the lower part of the breast; bring both ends round the head and tip of the bill, and fasten it on the back; cover the woodcocks with layers of bacon, and tie these round with string; roast them before the fire for about five-and-twenty minutes, fre- quently basting them with butter or dripping, place some toasted bread under the birds to receive the drop- pings from the trail; and when they are done, dish them HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 261 up with a piece of the toast under each, and watercresses round them. Serve some plain butter sauce separately in a boat. No. 660.—ROAST CAPONS. Draw and truss these as directed for trussing phea- sants; place them upon a spit, fasten the feet to it with string, to prevent the capons from twisting round while roasting; about three-quarters of an hour will suffice to roast them. When done, dish them up with water- cresses; pour some bright gravy under them, and serve with bread-sauce in a boat. Poulards, fowls, chickens, and turkey-poults are treated in the same manner as the foregoing. No. 661.—GREEN GOOSE. Draw the goose, pick off all the stubble-feathers; scald the legs, and rub off the skin with a cloth; cut the tips of the feet, and twist the legs round, so as to let the web of the feet rest flat upon the thighs; then truss the goose in the ordinary way as directed for pheasants : place it on a spit, and roast it before a brisk fire for about three-quarters of an hour, and when done, dish it up with watercresses round it; pour some gravy under, and serve. Ducklings are roasted and served in the same way as the above. No. 662.—ROAST PIGEONS. Truss these with thin layers of fat bacon and a vine- leaf over the breasts; roast them for about twenty minutes, and when done, dish them up with a sauce made with the livers in the manner directed for making liver-sauce for rabbits. No. 663.—ROAST BLACK GAME AND GROUSE. Beth these should be trussed in the same manner as pheasants, then roasted before a brisk fire, and five minutes before taking them up, should be frothed with 262 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND flour and butter; when done, dish them up with gravy under them, and send to table with fried bread-crumbs and bread-sauce, in separate sauce-boats. No. 664.—PEAHENS. Truss these in the same way as pheasants, except that the head must be left adhering to the skin of the breast, and fastened at the side of the thigh; let the peahen be closely larded all over the breast, and roasted before a moderate fire for about an hour; and, when nearly done, glaze the larding, and, on removing the fowl from the fire, dish up with watercresses ; pour some gravy under, and serve with bread-sauce separately in a sauce-boat. No. 665.—GUINEA-FOWL. When two of these are served for a dish, one should be larded and the other covered with a layer of fat bacon; roast them before a brisk fire for about twenty minutes; glaze and dish them up with watercresses ; pour some gravy under, and serve bread-sauce separately in a boat. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 263 CHAPTER XVI. HOW TO DRESS VEGETABLES. No. 666.—BRAIZED CELERY WITH BROWN SAUCE. Clean six heads of celery ; cut them about six inches in length, and trim the roots neatly; parboil them in water for ten minutes, and then immerse them in cold water; drain them on a sieve, and afterwards place them in a stewpan with some stock, and braize them gently over a slow fire for about an hour; when done, drain them upon a napkin ; trim and dish them up in the fol- lowing order :—first cut each head of celery into three equal lengths, then dish them up in the same manner as cutlets; garnish round with some small circular crous- tades of fried bread, about an inch in diameter, and filled with beef-marrow previously boiled for three minutes in water with a little salt, and afterwards tossed in a stewpan, with a little liquid glaze, lemon-juice, pepper and salt; pour some brown sauce (incorporated with a pat of butter and a little lemon-juice) over the celery, and serve. No. 667.—CELERY A LA VILLEROI. Braize four heads of celery in the manner described in the foregoing article ; and when done, drain them upon a napkin to absorb all the moisture; split each head into halves; mask them with some reduced Alle- mande sauce, and place them upon an earthen dish to become cold. They must then be rolled in bread-crumbs, 264 THE COOK'S GUIDE. AND afterwards dipped in beaten eggs, and bread-crumbed over again. Just before sending to table, place the pieces of celery carefully on the wire frying-basket; immerse them in plenty of clean hog's-lard heated for the purpose, and fry them of a bright-yellow colour; drain them upon a cloth; dish them up on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve. No. 668.—SALSIFIS A LA CREME. Scrape off the outside part until the salsifis become white, and throw them into a pan containing cold water mixed with a twentieth part of vinegar or lemon-juice, to prevent them from losing their whiteness; then boil them in hot water, with a little butter, mignionette- pepper, salt, lemon-juice, or vinegar ; when done, drain them on a sieve; cut them up into inch lengths, and put them into a stewpan with a spoonful of white sauce, a pat of butter, a little mignionette-pepper, and lemon- juice; toss them over the fire, and dish them up in the form of a dome; place some croûtons of fried bread or fleurons round the dish, and serve. No. 669.—SALSIFIS FRIED IN BATTER. Prepare the salsifis as above, and when done, drain and cut them into pieces about three inches long: put these into a basin with two tablespoonfuls of oil, one of French vinegar, some mignionette-pepper and salt; allow them to be steeped in this until within about ten minutes before sending to table; they must then be drained upon a napkin, dipped in some frying batter, and fried in lard made hot for the purpose; when done crisp, drain them on a cloth, dish them up on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve. No. 670 —SPINACH WITH BUTTER. Pick all the stalks from the spinach; wash it in several waters, and drain it upon a sieve; throw it into a stewpan of hot water with a handful of salt, and keep HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 265 it boiling until it becomes thoroughly tender; then drain it in a colander, and squeeze all the water from it. The spinach must next be carefully turned over with the point of a knife, to remove any straws or stalks that may have been overlooked; it should then be rubbed through a coarse wire sieve, and placed in a stewpan with about two ounces of butter, a little salt, and grated nutmeg; stir the spinach over the fire with a spoon until it becomes quite warm; then add a spoonful of sauce, a small piece of glaze, and about four ounces of fresh butter; work the whole together with a wooden spoon until well mixed, then pile the spinach up in the centre of the dish, garnish it round with crôutons, and serve. No. 671.—SPINACH WITH CREAM. Prepare the spinach as above, season with a little nutmeg, salt, and two ounces of fresh butter; stir it over the fire until quite warm; then add a gill of cream, two pats of butter, and a good dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar; work the whole well together over the fire, and dish up the spinach as directed in the foregoing article. No. 672.—ENDIVE WITH CREAM. Pick off all the outer leaves, leaving only the white; trim the roots, and wash the endive in several waters, carefully removing any insects that may be concealed in the inner folds of the leaves. Put a large stewpan halt filled with water on a brisk fire, and when it boils, throw in the endives with a handful of salt, and allow them to continue boiling fast until they become quite tender; drain them in a colander, and squeeze all the moisture from them ; next, take each head of endive separately; cut off the root and again look over the leaves, spreading them on the table with the point of a knife; when this is completed, chop them very fine, and pass them through a coarse wire sieve; then place them in a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, a little grated 266 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND nutmeg and salt; stir this over the fire for ten minutes; add half a gill of cream, a spoonful of white sauce, and a dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar. Keep the endives boiling on a stove fire until sufficiently reduced so as to be able to pile them on a dish ; when sending to table, garnish round with crôutons and serve. No. 673.—CAULIFLOWERS WITH WHITE SAUCE. Remove the green stalks, divide them, if large, into quarters; and with the point of a small knife pick out all the small leaves; wash the cauliflowers and boil them in hot water with a little mignionette-pepper, a pat of butter and some salt; when done, drain them upon a sieve; next, take a round-bottomed quart basin, and fill it with the cauliflowers, placing the flowerets next the sides, that the white only may be seen when dished up; pour some white sauce over them; garnish with fleurons, and serve. No. 674.—CAULIFLOWERS WITH PARMESAN CHEESE. Prepare and dish up the cauliflowers as directed above; put a large spoonful of white sauce into a stewpan, with four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, two ounces of fresh butter, the yolks of four eggs, a small piece of glaze, some lemon-juice, nutmeg, pepper and salt; stir this preparation over the fire until well mixed, without boiling; pour it on the cauliflowers, so as to mask them entirely with it. Smooth the dome over with the blade of a knife, and cover the top with bread-crumbs and Parmesan cheese; place them in the oven for about a quarter of an hour; when they have acquired a bright-yellow colour, put a border of crôutons of fried bread round the base, and serve. The crôutons may be stuck round the bottom of the dish to form a coronet previously to dishing up the cauliflowers, so as to prevent them from spreading. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 267 No. 675.—TOMATAS A LA PROVENCALE. Slice off that part of the tomata that adheres to the stalk; scoop out the seeds without breaking the sides of the fruit, and place them in circular order in a sautapan containing about a gill of salad-oil; next, chop up half a pottle of mushrooms, a handful of parsley, and four shalots; put these into a stewpan with two ounces of scraped fat bacon or ham; season with pepper and salt, and a little chopped thyme; fry these for about five minutes, then mix in three yolks of eggs ; fill the tomatas with this preparation; shake some light-coloured raspings of bread over them, and place them over a brisk fire, holding a red-hot salamander over them for about ten minutes, by which time they will be done ; dish them up; pour some brown sauce round the base, and serve. No. 676.—MUSHROOMS AU GRATIN. Punnet or large mushrooms must be used for this purpose; cut the stalks, trim the edges, and remove the skin; then fill each mushroom with a similar prepara- tion to that directed to be used for tomatas a la Proven- çale; shake some raspings of bread over them, and place them in a sautapan spread with butter, put them in the oven for about a quarter of an hour to bake, and then dish them up in a pyramidal form; pour some brown sauce round them, and serve. No. 677.—LARGE TRUFFLES A LA SERVIETTE. When the truffles have been thoroughly cleansed by brushing the mould off in water, drain and place them in a stewpan; pour some mirepoix, No. 300, on them; place some layers of bacon on the top, and set them to boil on a slow fire; allow them to simmer gently over a slow fire, or in the oven, for about three-quarters of an hour; then dish them in a folded napkin, and 268 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND send the following sauce separately in a sauce-boat :- mix a gill of the finest salad-oil with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the juice of a lemon, some mignionette pepper, a little salt, and two tablespoonfuls of half-glaze, made by boiling down about a gill of the mirepoix in which the truffles have been boiled. No. 678.—TRUFFLES A LA PIEMONTAISE. Cut half a pound of fresh truffles into collops; place them in a sautapan with two tablespoonfuls of Lucca oil, one of chopped parsley, a little chopped thyme, a clove of garlic, some mignionette-pepper and salt; fry them over a brisk fire for five minutes ; remove the garlic; then add a gravy-spoonful of Italian sauce, a small piece of glaze, and the juice of half a lemon; toss the whole together over the fire, and pour it over the hollow crusts of two French rolls from which the top crust part has been removed, then thickly spread with butter, and afterwards placed in the oven for ten minutes to become crisp. No. 679.—PORTUGAL ONIONS A L'ESPAGNOLE. Peel the onions and stamp out the cores with a long vegetable cutter about a quarter of an inch in diameter ; parboil them in water for ten minutes, and then drain them on a cloth. Spread the bottom of a deep sautapan with butter; place the onions in it; moisten with broth sufficient to just cover them, and set them to boil over a slow fire, occasionally turning them in their liquor; when they are nearly done, add a dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar; boil them down quickly to a glaze; add a little tomata; roll the onions in it, and dish them up in a close circle. Note.-— These onions are better adapted for garnishing removes of braized beef, &c., than for being served as a second-course dish. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 269 No. 680.—ARTICHOKES WITH BUTTER SAUCE. Trim the bottoms of the artichokes; cut off the tips of the leaves, and boil them in water with a little salt for about three-quarters of an hour; when done, drain them upon a sieve for five minutes, loosen the fibrous sub- stance in the inside with the handle of a tablespoon, and after this has been all removed from the artichokes, dish them up on a napkin; pour a little butter sauce inside each, and send up some of the sauce in a boat. No. 681.—ARTICHOKES A LA BARIGOULE. Trim some small artichokes, and with the handle of an iron tablespoon scoop out all the fibrous part inside. Put about a pound of clean hog's-lard into a frying-pan on the fire, and when quite hot, fry the bottom of the artichokes in it for about three minutes; then turn them upside down, and fry the tips of the leaves also; drain them upon a cloth, to absorb all the grease, and fill them with a similar preparation to that directed for tomatas a la I'rovençale; tie them up with string, and place them in a large stewpan or fricandeau-pan; moisten with a little good stock; put the lid on; place them in the oven to simmer for about an hour; when done, drain them upon a cloth ; remove the strings ; fill the centre of each artichoke with some Italian sauce; dish them up with some of the sauce, and serve. No. 682.—ARTICHOKES A LA LYONNAISE. Pull off the lower leaves without damaging the bottoms of the artichokes, which must be turned smooth with a sharp knife ; cut the artichokes into quarters, remove the fibrous parts, trim them neatly, and parboil them in water with a little salt for about five minutes; then drain them in a colander, and arrange them in circular order in a sauta pan thickly spread with about two ounces of fresh butter; strew about a dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar over this ; season with mignionette- pepper and salt ; moisten with a glass of white wine, and 270 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND a gill of good stock, and place them on a slow fire to simmer very gently for about three-quarters of an hour, taking care that they do not burn; when done, they should be of a deep-yellow colour, and nicely glazed. Dish them up in the form of a dome, showing the bottom of the artichokes only; remove any leaves that may have broken off in the sautapan; add a spoonful of brown gravy or sauce, two pats of butter and some lemon- juice; simmer this over the fire, stirring it meanwhile with a spoon; and when the butter has been mixed in with the sauce, pour it over the artichokes, and serve. No. 683.—ARTICHOKES A L'ITALIENNE. These are prepared in the manner described in the foregoing article, except that, when about to finish them, brown Italian sauce must be substituted for plain sauce or gravy. No. 684.—ASPARAGUS WITH WHITE SAUCE. Pick the loose leaves from the heads, and scrape the stalks clean ; wash them in a pan of cold water; tie them up in bundles of about twenty in each, keeping all the heads turned the same way; cut the stalks even, leaving them about eight inches long; put the asparagus in hot water with a small handful of salt to boil for about twenty minutes, and when done, drain them carefully upon a napkin to avoid breaking off the heads; dish them up on a square thick piece of toasted bread dipped in the water they have been boiled in, and send to table with some white sauce separately in a sauce-boat. No. 685.—ASPARAGUS PEAS A LA CREME. Boil a quart of asparagus peas in plenty of water and a handful of salt; the water must boil before the peas are put in; when they are done, drain them in a colander; immerse them in cold water for three minutes, and then drain them on a sieve. Next place the asparagus peas in a stewpan with a small faggot of green onions and HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 271 parsley, two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of pounded sugar, a little grated nutmeg, and salt; put the lid on and set them to simmer gently over a slow fire for five minutes. Then remove the faggot of parsley; and if there be any liquor in the peas, boil it down quickly, and incorporate with them two small pats of fresh butter and a leason of two yolks of eggs, mixed with half a gill of cream; toss the peas over a stove-fire, to set the leason in them, and dish them up in the form of a dome, with a border of fleurons round them, and serve. No. 686.—FRENCH BEANS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL. Pick and string the beans; cut them up and shred each bean into three or four strips; wash them in plenty of water; drain them in a colander, and throw them into a stewpan containing boiling water and a handful of salt, and boil them briskly until they become tender; they must be drained in a colander; next, put a spoonful of white sauce into a stewpan, with two ounces of fresh butter, a tablespoonful of chopped parboiled parsley, a very little nutmeg, mignionette-pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon; stir these well together over the fire, and when perfectly mixed, throw in the beans, and toss the whole together over the fire until quite hot, then dish them up with a border of crôutons round them, and serve. No. 687.—FRENCH BEANS WITH FINE-HERBS. Boil the beans as directed in the foregoing case; put two pats of fresh butter into a stewpan with a tablespoonful of chopped and parboiled parsley, and two shalots also chopped, a little nutmeg, mignionette-pepper and salt, and the juice of a lemon; simmer this over the fire until melted, and then throw the beans in; toss the whole together, and dish them up with crôutons round them. No. 688.—BROAD BEANS A LA CRÊME. For this purpose the beans must be young; boil them in water with a faggot of parsley and some salt; when done, drain them in a colander; put them into a stewpan 272 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND with two ounces of fresh butter, some chopped parsley, and as much winter-savoury as will cover the tip of a spoon, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; toss the beans over the fire for five minutes, and then incorporate with them a leason of four yolks of eggs and the juice of half a lemon; when the leason has become set in the beans dish them up with fleurons round them, and serve. No. 689.—GREEN PEAS, PLAIN. Put the peas into boiling water, with some salt and a bunch of green mint; keep them boiling briskly for about twenty minutes; when done, drain them in a colander, dish them up with chopped boiled mint on the top, and send some small pats of very fresh butter separately on a plate. No. 690.—STEWED PEAS. Put a quart of young peas into a pan, with an ounce of butter, and plenty of cold water; rub the peas and butter together with the fingers until well mixed; then pour off the water, and put the peas into a stewpan, with a couple of cabbage lettuces, shred small, a faggot of green onions and parsley, a dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar, and a little salt; put the lid on, and set the peas to stew gently over a slow fire for about half an hour; when done, if there appears to be much liquor, boil it down quickly over the fire; next put about two ounces of fresh butter on a plate with a dessert-spoonful of flour, and knead them together; put this into the peas, and toss the whole over the fire until well mixed; dish the peas up; garnish round with fleurons, and serve. No. 691.—PEAS À LA FRANCAISE. These must be prepared as above, omitting the lettuce ; stew them in the same manner, and when done, add a little light-coloured glaze, and finish with two ounces of kneaded butter and flour, with a little more sugar han in the foregoing case. FOUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER273 WRS . . 'S ASSISTANTASSISTANTNo. 692.—TURNIPS GLACES WITH SUGAR. Turn about two dozen pieces of turnips into the form of rings about two inches in diameter, or else in the shape of small pears; put them into a deep sautapan, spread with fresh butter, and strewn with about two ounces of pounded sugar; moisten with about half a pint of good stock, and set the turnips to simmer very gently over a moderate fire for about twenty minutes : when they are nearly done, remove the lid, and place them over a brisk fire, to boil the moisture down to glaze, gently rolling the turnips in this with great care, to avoid breaking them; they must then be dished up in neat order, and the glaze poured over them. No. 693.—YOUNG CARROTS A L'ALLEMANDE. Turn one bunch of spring-carrots, keeping them in their original shape but making them equal in size; par- boil them in water with a little salt for about ten minutes, then drain them in a colander; place them in a deep sautapan with two ounces of fresh butter, an equal pro. portion of loaf-sugar, and about a pint of stock; put the lid on, and set the carrots to boil very gently over a moderate fire for about half an hour; then set them to boil briskly until their liquor is reduced to a glaze, when they must be gently rolled in this, and dished up in a round-bottomed quart basin, so as to form a dome when turned out upon the dish; pour round some Alle- mande sauce, mixed with some chopped and parboiled parsley, also the remainder of their glaze over the carrots, and serve. No. 694.—VEGETABLE-MARROW. Cut the vegetable-marrow, according to size, into four, six, or eight pieces-- just as oranges are divided ; peel and trim them neatly; place them in a deep sautapan spread with butter, and season with a very little nut- meg, mignionette-pepper, salt, and a teaspoonful of pounded sugar; moisten with half a pint of white broth, 274 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND and set them to boil gently over a stove-fire for about ten minutes ; then boil them down in their glaze ; mix in a pat of butter and the juice of half a lemon; pour this over the vegetable-marrow, and serve. No. 695.—ANOTHER METHOD. Trim the vegetable-marrows as above; boil them gently in water, with a pat of butter, and a little salt; drain and dish them up; pour some white sauce over them, and serve. No. 696.—CUCUMBERS A LA POULETTE. Cut the cucumbers into collops about an inch in diameter; put them into a basin with a tablespoonful of salt and twice that proportion of vinegar; allow them to steep in this for several hours. Then pour off all the moisture from the cucumbers, and put them into a stew- pan with two ounces of fresh butter, a very little grated nutmeg, and a dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar, and set them to simmer very gently over a slow fire until they become quite tender: this will require about half an hour. The butter must then be poured off, and a spoonful of white sauce added ; simmer the cucumbers over the fire for a few minutes, finish by incorporating with them a leason of four yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, and a spoonful of chopped and parboiled parsley, and the juice of half a lemon; dish them up with a border of fleurons, and serve. No. 697.—CUCUMBERS A L'ESPAGNOLE. Cut the cucumbers into lengths of about two inches; scoop out all the seeds; pare off the skins, and trim them round and smooth at the ends; parboil them in water and salt for five minutes, and then drain them upon a napkin : fill each piece of cucumber with tome quenelle forcemeat; place them in neat order in a deep sautapan, moisten with stock, and set them to siinmer HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 275 very gently over a slow fire for about half an hour; when they are become quite tender, drain them upon a cloth; dish them up in a pyramidal form ; pour some brown sauce over them, and serve. No. 698.—JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. Wash them thoroughly in plenty of water; peel, or turn them in the form of large olives or sinall pears; boil them in water with a pat of butter and a little salt for about a quarter of an hour; when done, drain them upon a cloth; dish them up neatly ; pour some butter sauce over them, and serve. No. 699.—JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES A L'ITALIENNE. · Turn the artichokes into any fancy shape; place them in circular order in a deepsautapan spread with butter; season with mignionette-pepper, nutmeg, salt, and lemon- juice; moisten with a little stock or water; put the lid on; get them to simmer very gently over a slow fire for about half an hour, during which time they will, if properly attended to, acquire a deep-yellow colour. Boil them down in their glaze; dish them up; pour some Italian sauce round them, and serve. No. 700.—WHITE HARICOT BEANS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL. These are seldom to be met with in England, except in a dried state; when procurable they should be treated in the following manner :—put a large stewpan, half filled with water, on the fire to boil; then throw in the beans, with a pat of butter and a little salt; allow them to boil until they are become quite tender; drain them in a colander; then put them into a stewpan with about two ounces of fresh butter, a little pepper and salt, some chopped parsley, and lemon juice; toss the whole well together over the fire until well-mixed; then dish them up with crôutons round them, and serve. Note. When the haricot beans are in a dried state T 2 276 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND they should be steeped in cold water for six hours at least previously to their being dressed for the table, and must be boiled in cold water; in all other respects finish them in the above manner. No. 701.—WHITE HARICOT BEANS A LA BRETONNE. Boil the haricot beans as directed above, and when done, drain them in a colander; put them into a stewpan with some Brêtonne sauce, and set them to simmer over the fire for five minutes; toss them together, and dish them up, as the above. No. 702.—AMERICAN YAMS A LA FRANCAISE. Cut the yams into slices about half an inch thick; trim them into large oval-shaped scollops; and throw them into a pan full of water; wash and drain them upon a cloth; then place them in circular order, in a deep sautapan spread with four ounces of fresh butter, and season with a little grated nutmeg and salt; moisten with a pint of water; put the lid on, and set them to simmer gently over a slow fire for about three-quarters of an hour, taking care to turn them over, in order that they may acquire a bright yellow-glazed colour on both sides : dish them up in close circular order, piled up in rows; pour the following sauce under them, and serve: -knead two pats of fresh butter with a dessert-spoonful of flour; put it into a stewpan with a gill of cream, a spoonful of pounded sugar, a very little salt, and a tea- spoonful of orange-flower water; stir this over the fire until it thickens, and then use it as directed. No. 703.—POTATOES A LA MAITRE-D'HOTEL. The small French kidney or Vitelotte-potatoes are best adapted for this purpose : boil or steam them in the ordinary way, and when done, cut them into slices about the eighth of an inch thick; put them into a stewpan with a spoonful of white sauce or broth, four ounces of HOUSEKEEPER 8 AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 277 butter, some pepper and salt, chopped parsley and lemon- juice; toss them over the fire until the butter, &c., is mixed in with the potatoes; then dish them up with crôutons round them, and serve. No. 704.—NEW POTATOES A LA CREME. Cut some recently-boiled new potatoes into slices ; put them into a stew pan with half a gill of cream, two ounces of fresh butter, a very little nutmeg, pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon; set them on the fire ; toss them well together, and dish them up with crôutons. No. 705.—POTATOES A LA CREME AU GRATIN. Cut some boiled potatoes into slices, about an inch in diameter; prepare the same kind of mixture as directed for cauliflowers au gratin; stick some neatly-cut crôutons of fried bread round the bottom of the dish, in the form of a coronet; place a close circular row of the slices of potatoes within this border of crôutons ; spread a layer of the mixture over them; then repeat the row of potatoes and the mixture until the dish is complete : smooth the top over with some of the sauce ; shake some fried bread-crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese over the surface, so as entirely to cover it; put the potatoes in the oven for twenty minutes to be warmed through, and serve. No. 705a.—POTATOES A LA LYONNAISE. Cut up six boiled potatoes in rounds about a quarter of an inch thick, and fry them of a light-brown colour with two ounces of butter in a frying-pan; season with chopped parsley and shalot, pepper and salt, and half a lemon-juice, and, if possible, a small piece of glaze. No. 705b.—POTATOES A LA PROVENCALE. These are prepared in the same way as the foregoing, excepting that the potatoes should be fried crisp in hot frying fat, and that one ounce of salad-oil be used in. stead of butter. 278 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 705c.—POTATO CROQUETS. Bake six potatoes; rub their pulp through a wire sieve; put this into a stewpan with one ounce of butter, three yolks of eggs, pepper, nutmeg and salt; stir the whole over the fire, until the paste ceases to adhere to the sides of the stewpan; it must then be put between two plates and set aside until it is cold : the potato- paste must then be shaped in the form of corks, balls, small pears—the stalks being imitated with parsley- stalks : the croquets are to be dipped in beaten egg, rolled in fine bread crumbs, and fried of a light colour in hot frying fat; and when done, may be dished up for a second-course vegetable, or used for garnishing first- course dishes. No. 705d.—POTATOES A LA DUCHESSE Prepare some potato-paste as directed in the foregoing number; form this into rounds, or ovals, or oblong shapes—moulded with flour, and fried in a sautapan with hot clarified butter; and when done of a light colour on one side, they must be turned over with care, to be similarly fried on the other side; they must then be drained, dished up like cutlets, some white sauce being poured round the base, and served as a second-course dish No. 705e.—BAKED POTATOES. Bake the potatoes; slip off a thin slice of the skin, about the size of a crown-piece; introduce a piece of butter, a very small quantity of chopped shalot, pepper and salt; mix the seasoning with the pulp; put the lid on, and serve hot. No. 705f.—POTATOES A L'ITALIENNE. Bake the potatoes ; cut off a lid; mix the pulp with a third proportion of well-boiled rice; season with grated Parmesan cheese, pepper and salt; put this back into HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 279 the potato shells with tho lid on; push them in the oven for a few minutes, and serve hot, for breakfast, &c. No. 705g.—POTATO SALAD. Cut cold-boiled potatoes in slices; add beetroot and a few leaves of any kind of salad ; season with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt, chopped parsley and shalot. No. 706.—MASHED POTATOES. Boil or steam the potatoes mealy; rub them while quite hot through a wire sieve; put the pulp in a stewpan with fresh butter, cream, pepper and salt, in proportion to the quantity of potatoes; stir them vigor- ously over the fire to make them light, and serve quite hot. No. 706a.—FRIED POTATOES. Cut raw potatoes in the shape of wine-corks, and then slice these as thin as shilling-pieces; and as you turn them out of hand, throw them into a pan containing cold water; and when about to fry them, let them be drained on a clean napkin to absorb all moisture, and put into a wire frying-basket, to be fried in hot fat of a light-brown colour: when done, they must be perfectly crisp. No. 706b.—SEAKALE A LA SAUCE. Tie the seakale up in small bundles, and put it in boiling water with a little salt; about twenty minutes will suffice to boil it tender; drain, and dish it up on a piece of toast, and send some butter sauce separately in a boat. Note.—Seakale may also be served with Espagnole or Béchamel sauce, in which case it must be placed in the dish, and the Béchamel or Espagnole sauce poured over it: if the latter, a pat of butter and a little lemon-juice should be first worked in with it. 280 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 707.—BRUSSELS SPROUTS. Boil the sprouts green; put them into a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, some mignionette-pepper, nutmeg, salt, and lemon-juice, and a spoonful of white sauce; toss the whole well together over the fire until the butter is incorporated with them ; dish them up with a border of sippets, and serve. : No. 707a.—IRISH STEW. Cut up about four pounds of either neck, or loin of mutton, into eight or ten neatly trimmed chops, paring away all excess of fat and rough bone; season plentifully with pepper, and moderately with salt; place the chops in a deep stewpan or saucepan, with sufficient water to cover in their surface, add eight good sized onions, put the lid on and set the whole on the fire to stew gently for half an hour; the stew must then be removed from the fire, the liquor poured into a basin, and after being freed from all grease, is to be poured back to the chops; add a dozen peeled potatoes, and a pint of good stock or gravy, if handy, or failing that, (in case that the moisture has been reduced to half its original quantity) a like quantity of water will do. The whole is then to be placed on the fire to boil gently for about three quarters of an hour, due care being taken that the moisture does not become wholly absorbed by the stew, or burnt at the bottom of the stew-pan, as this latter accident would entirely spoil the dish. As soon as the Irish stew is done, let it be dished up as follows, viz. : first remove the potatoes carefully on to a plate, and then use a fork and spoon to place the cutlets or chops neatly round the dish, add the potatoes in their centre, and pour the gravy and onions, &c., over the whole, and serve hot. Note.--A less expensive method of making Irish stew is to use the scrag end of a neck of mutton, or indeed any inferior pieces of meat most convenient, as well as the remains of a cooked joint of beef, 0.atton, or veal HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 281 CHAPTER XVII. DIFFERENT METHODS OF DRESSING EGGS. No. 708.—EGGS A LA TRIPE. Bon six eggs hard ; immerse them in cold water for three minutes; take off the shells; cut them in rather thick slices, and put these into a stewpan. Next, cut three small onions in slices, separating the folds in rings; these must be first parboiled in water, and then after being boiled in a little milk, should be drained upon a sieve, and placed with the eggs. Add two spoon- fuls of good Béchamel sauce, a scrape of garlic, a pinch of mignionette-pepper, a little nutmeg, and the juice of a lemon; toss the whole well together over the fire, and when the eggs are quite hot, dish them up; garnish round with sippets, and serve. No. 709.—EGGS AU GRATIN. Boil the eggs hard, and when done, take off the shells, cut them in slices, and set them aside on a plate. Next, put a large spoonful of white sauce into a stew- pan; add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, a small pat of butter, a little nutmeg, mignionette-pepper, the yolks of four eggs, and the juice of half a lemon; stir this quickly over the fire until it begins to thicken, and then withdraw it from the fire. Place the eggs in close circular rows in the dish; spread some of the prepa- ration in between each layer, observing that the whole 282 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND must be dished up in the form of a dome; smooth the surface over with the remainder of the sauce; strew some fried bread-crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan cheese over the top ; put some fried sippets of bread round the base, and set them in the oven to bake or gratinate for about ten minutes; then send to table. No. 710.—BUTTERED EGGS WITH TRUFFLES. Break six new-laid eggs into a stewpan; to these add two ounces of fresh butter, one ounce of truffles (cut up in very small dice, and simmered in a little butter); half a gill of cream, a little nutmeg, mignionette-pepper and salt; stir this quickly with a wooden spoon over the stove-fire until the eggs, &c., begin to thicken; then the stewpan must be withdrawn: continue to work the eggs with a spoon, observing that, although they must not be allowed to become hard (as in that case the preparation would be curdled and rendered unsightly), yet, they must be sufficiently set so as to be fit to be dished up. To effect this, it is necessary to stick the crôutons or sippets round the inner circle of the dish, with a little flour and white-of-egg paste; dish up the eggs in the centre of these, and serve. No. 711.—OMELET WITH FINE-HERBS. Break three eggs in a basin; to these add a spoonful of cream, a small pat of butter broken in small pieces, a little chopped parsley and shalot, some pepper and salt; then put two ounces of fresh butter in an omelet- pan (see Adams' Illustrations on the stove-fire. While the butter is melting, whip the eggs, &c., well together rintil they become frothy; as soon as the butter begins to fritter, pour the eggs into the pan, and stir the omelet; as the eggs appear to set, and become firm, roll the omelet into the form of an oval cushion; allow it to acquire a golden colour on one side over the fire, and then turn it out on its dish ; pour a little thin sauce, or gravy or half-glaze, under it, and serve. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 283 No. 712.—OMELET WITH SHALOTS. Prepare and finish this omelet in all respects like the foregoing, except that some chopped shalots must be added No. 713.—OMELET WITH PARMESAN CHEESE. Break four eggs into a basin; then add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, some mignionette-pepper and a little salt; beat the whole well together, and finish the omelet as previously directed. No. 714.—OMELET WITH KIDNEYS. First, prepare the kidneys with fine-herbs; then make an omelet as directed for • Omelet with Fine-herbs;' and when it is fried, before folding it up, place the prepared kidneys in it; roll it up into shape; dish it up with a little half-glaze round the base, and serve. No. 715-OMELET WITH OYSTERS. This is made in the same manner as the foregoing, merely substituting some oysters prepared as for scollops. No. 716.—POACHED EGGS WITH ANCHOVY TOAST. First, break some new-laid eggs into separate small cups; then drop them one after the other into a stewpan containing boiling water mixed with a tablespoonful of white vinegar and a little salt; keep this boiling while the eggs are being dropped in at the side of the stew- pan; and when they have boiled for two minutes, drain them on a napkin ; trim them, and place each egg upon a square or oval piece of dry toast spread with anchovy butter, over which have been laid some thin fillets of anchovies; dish these up in a close circle; pour a little half-glaze under them; place a pinch of mignionette- pepper in the centre of each egg, and serve. 28+ THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 717.—POACHED EGGS WITH HAM. Poach the eggs as in the foregoing case, and when done, dish them up on thin oval collops of fried ham pour some thin poivrade sauce under them, and serve. NO. No. 718.—EGGS A LA DAUPHINE. Boil six eggs hard, take off the shells, and cut each egg into halves lengthwise; scoop out the yolks, and put them into the mortar, and place the whites on a dish; add two ounces of butter to the yolks of eggs, also the crumb of a French roll soaked in cream, some chopped parsley, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, and two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese ; pound the whole well together, and then add one whole egg and the yolks of two others; mix these well together by pounding, and use this preparation for filling the whites of eggs, kept in reserve on purpose : smooth them over with the blade of a small knife dipped in water, and as they are filled, place them in a dish; next, with some of the remaining part of the preparation, spread a thin founda- tion at the bottom of the dish, and proceed to raise the eggs up, in three or four tiers, to a pyramidal form, a single egg crowning the whole; four hard-boiled yolks of eggs must then be rubbed through a wire sieve over the dish, for them to fall upon—in shreds like vermi- celli; place a border of fried crôutons of bread round the base, and set the eggs in the oven for about twenty minutes, that they may be baked of a bright-yellow colour ; when done, withdraw them; pour some thin Béchamel round the dish, and serve. No. 719.—EGGS A L'AURORE. Boil the eggs hard, and remove the shells; cut each egg into halves, lengthwise ; take the yolks out, and place them on a dish; shred the whites up in fine strips, and put these into a stewpan with some aurora sauce; toss them over the fire until quite hot; then dish HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 285 them up in the centre of a border of crôutons previously stuck round the bottom of the dish. First place a layer of the whites, then shake a little grated Parmesan cheese, after which rub some of the yolks through a wire sieve upon this, and so on, repeating the same until the whole is used up; finishing with the yolks of eggs resembling vermicelli: put the dish in the oven, bake of a bright-yellow colour, and then serve. No. 720.—EGGS WITH NUT-BROWN BUTTER. Put two ounces of butter into an omelet pan over the fire: as soon as it begins to fritter, break the eggs into it without disturbing the yolks; season with pepper and salt; fry the eggs over the fire for five minutes, and then remove them gently on their dish. Next, put two ounces more butter into the pan; fry it of a brown colour, then add two tablespoonfuls of French vinegar; boil the whole together for two minutes; pour it over the eggs, and serve. No. 721.—EGGS A LA SUISSE. Spread the bottom of a silver dish with two ounces of fresh butter; cover this with rather thin slices of fresh Gruyère or any other cheese ; break eight whole eggs upon the cheese without disturbing the yolks; season with grated nutmeg, mignionette-pepper, and salt; pour a gill of double cream on the surface; strew the top with about two ounces of grated cheese, and set the eggs in the oven to bake for about ten minutes ; pass the hot salamander over the top, and serve with strips of very thin dry toast separately on a plate. No. 722.—MACARONI A L'ITALIÈNNE. Break up the macaroni in three-inch lengths; and put it on to boil in hot water, with a pat of butter, a little mignionette-pepper and salt; when done, drain it on a napkin, and as soon as the moisture is absorbed, dish it up in the following manner :—first, put two 286 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND large spoonfuls of good tomata sauce into a stew pan, and boil it over the stove-fire; then add two pats of fresh butter with as much glaze, and work the whole well together; next, strew a layer of the macaroni on the bottom of the dish, then pour some of the sauce over it, and strew some grated Parmesan cheese over this, and so on—repeating the sauce until the dish is full enough; strew some grated cheese over the top; put the macaroni in the oven for five minutes, and then serve. No. 723.—MACARONI WITH CREAM. Boil one pound of macaroni, and when done, cut it up in three-inch lengths, and put it into a stewpan with four ounces of fresh butter, four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and half a gill of good cream ; season with mignionette-pepper and salt, and toss the whole well together over the stove-fire until well mixed and quite hot; then shake it up for a few minutes to make the cheese spin, so as to give it a fibrous appearance when drawn up with a fork. The macaroni, when dished up, must be garnished round the base with sippets of bread, and then served. No. 724.—MACARONI AU GRATIN. Cut the macaroni up as above; put it into a stewpan with three-quarters of a pound of grated cheese (Par- mesan and Gruyère in equal quantities), four ounces of fresh butter, and a spoonful of good Béchamel; season with mignionette-pepper and salt; toss the whole well together over the stove-fire until well mixed, then pile it up in the centre of a border of fried crôutons of bread (previously stuck round the bottom of the dish); strew the surface with fine bread-crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese in equal proportions; run a little melted butter through the holes of a spoon, over the top of the macaroni, and then put it in the oven to be baked of a bright-yellow colour : it should then be served quite hot. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 287 No. 725.—TIMBALE OF MACARONI A LA FLORENTINE. Decorate a plain mould with some nouilles-paste mixed with a little sugar; then line the mould with some thin strips of fine short-paste, which must be placed exactly in the same manner as when lining a charlotte-mould with bread; fill the timbale with flour ; cover it in with some of the paste, and bake it for about one hour; it must then be again emptied; and all the flour brushed out with a paste-brush, put back into the mould, and kept in the screen until wanted. While the timbale is being made, parboil half a pound of Naples macaroni in water for about a quarter of an hour, then drain it on a sieve, and afterwards put it into a stewpan with a pat of butter, a pint of milk, and the same quantity of cream, four ounces of sugar, a stick of vanilla, and very little salt; then set the macaroni to boil very gently over a slow fire until it is thoroughly done, by which time the 'macaroni will have entirely absorbed the milk, &c.; then add about one ounce of grated Parmesan cheese ; toss the whole well together over the fire; remove the stick of vanilla, and fill the timbale with the macaroni; then turn it out of the mould on to its dish; shake over it some finely-pounded sugar; glaze it with the hot salamander, and send to table. No. 726.—NOUILLES A LA PALERMO. Make three-quarters of a pound of nouilles ; parboil them in water with a pat of butter and a little salt for about ten minutes; then drain them on a sieve, and afterwards put them in a stewpan with a pint of milk, a pat of butter, a little grated nutmeg, mignionette- pepper and salt; place a circular piece of buttered paper on the top ; put the lid on, and then set the nouilles over a slow fire to boil very gently until the whole of the milk has been absorbed ; next, add a gill of cream, four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, two pats of butter, and a small piece of glaze; toss the whole 288 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND well together over the fire, and then pile them up in the centre of a border of crôutons previously stuck round the bottom of the dish; shake some vermicellied volts of eggs, and some grated Parmesan cheese over the sur- face; put the dish in the oven to be baked of a fine bright-yellow colour, and send to table. No. 727.—TIMBALE OF NOUILLES A LA VANILLE. Parboil the nouilles in water for ten minutes; then drain them on a sieve, and afterwards put them in a stewpan with a pint of cream, a tablespoonful of pounded vanilla sugar, a pat of butter, six ounces of sugar, and a little salt; cover them with a circular piece of buttered paper; put on the lid ; then set them on a slow fire to boil gently for about three-quarters of an hour, by which time the cream will be absorbed by the nouilles : add the yolks of six eggs, and mix the whole well together. Next, spread a plain round or oval mould with butter; roll some nouilles-paste out on the slab with the fingers, and use this for the purpose of lining the mould with—coiled round as closely as possible, thus forming a kind of timbale; fill this with the pre- pared nouilles; place it on a baking-sheet, and put it in the oven to be baked, of a fine light colour ; when it is done, turn the timbale out of the mould on its dish; shake some fine sifted sugar over it; glaze it with the red-hot salamander, and serve. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND RUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 289 CHAPTER XVIII. RAISED PIES AND TIMBALES. No. 728.—CHRISTMAS PIE. First, bone a fowl, a wild duck, a pheasant, and two woodcocks, &c.; having spread them open on the table, season them with aromatic herbs, No. 671; pepper and salt; garnish each with some forcemeat, No. 188; sew them up with small twine ; place them on a sautapan with a little clarified butter, and set them to bake in a mo- derate heat, until they are done through ; when they must be withdrawn from the oven, and put in the cool. Mean while, place the carcasses in a stewpan, with two calf's feet, carrot, celery, onion, a clove of garlic, two bay. leaves, thyme, cloves, mace, and a little salt; fill up with four quarts of water; boil, skim, and then set this by the side to continue gently boiling for three hours, when it must be strained, freed from grease, and boiled down to thin glaze, and kept in reserve. Make four pounds of hot-water paste, No. 949, and use this to line a raised pie-mould (see Adams' Illustra- tions) ; line the inside of the pie with some of the force- meat; arrange the baked fowl, duck, &c., in the centre, placing at the same time layers of forcemeat and season- ing, until all the preparation is used up; put a cover of paste on the top; weld it all round; cut the edge even; pinch it with pastry-pincers (see Adams' Illustrations); ornament the top with leaves of paste; egg it over, and 290 THE OUOK'S GUIDE, ANI) bake the pie for about two hours and a half; and when it comes out of the oven, pour in the game-glaze through a funnel; put it in the larder to get cold; and previously to sending it to table, remove the lid, garnish the top with aspic jelly; place the pie on a napkin, in its dish, and ornament the base with a border of fresh-picked parsley. Note.—The addition of truffles would be an improve- ment. No. 729.—YORKSHIRE PIE. Bone a goose, a hare, two grouse, and four snipes; spread these out on the table; season with aromatic spices, No. 948 ; pepper and salt; fill them with pork- sausage-meat prepared for the purpose; sew them up with string; bake them until done, and use them to finish a pie, in exactly the same manner as indicated in the pre- ceding number, the only difference being, that you must add some thick slices of cooked ham, and use sausage-meat instead of the forcemeat therein recommended. When - the pie is baked, pour in the reduced stock from the bones; and when cold the next day, garnish the top with aspic jelly. : No. 730.– DEVONSHIRE PIE. Make two pounds of short-paste, No. 951, and with this line a buttered oblong tin mould ; fill the pie with alternate slices of griskin of pork, of bacon, and apples ; season between each layer with chopped onion, pepper and salt, and chopped sage-leaves; pour in a little good gravy; cover over the top with paste; weld it round the edge; cut it even ; pinch it round; egg it over, and bake it for about an hour and a half. No. 731.—LEICESTERSHIRE PIE. Cut up the pork in square pieces—fat and lean in equal proportions ; season with pepper and salt, and a small quantity of chopped sage-leaf, and set this aside on a plate: next, make two pounds of hot-water paste, using fresh hog's-lard instead of butter for the purpose; HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 291 and with this paste line a tin pie mould—previously greased inside with butter; fill up the pie with the sea- soned pork; put the lid on; weld it round; cut the edge even; pinch it, egg it over the top, and bake it for about an hour and three-quarters. The pie is supposed to con- tain about three pounds of meat. No. 732.—FRENCH TIMBALE. Daub or interlard—that is, run long square pieces of seasoned bacon by means of a large daubing, or lard- ing-pin (see Adams' Illustrations), through about three pounds of white veal cut from the leg; cut this in thick slices across the grain of the meat, and put them aside on a plate. Next prepare some forcemeat, No. 188; and make two pounds of short-paste, No. 952, and use two- thirds of this to line a plain round or oval mould pre- viously greased with butter: line the pie with a thin coat- ing of the forcemeat, and fill it with alternate layers of the slices of veal, cooked ham, and forcemeat, taking care to season with aromatic spices, No. 671, and pepper and salt in between each layer; cover in the timbale with a rolled-out piece of the paste; weld the edge; cut it even, and pinch it round with pastry-pincers (see Adams' Il. lustrations); ornament the surface with leaves cut out of the paste; egg it over, and bake it for about two hours and a half; and about half an hour after it is removed from the oven, make a hole at the top, to pour in the thin glaze made from the bones and trimmings of the veal and a calf's foot, &c. No. 733.-- RICHMOND EEL-PIE. Skin, draw, and cleanse two good-sized Thames eels; trim off the fins, and cut them up in pieces about three inches long, and put these in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, some chopped mushrooms, parsley, and a very little shalot, nutmeg, pepper and salt, two glasses of sherry, one of Harvey sauce, and barely enough water to cover the surface of the eels; set them on the fire, and as soon as they come to a boil, let them bes U 2 292 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND removed, and the pieces of eels placed carefully in a pie dish ; add two ounces of butter, kneaded with two ounces of flour, to the sauce; and having stirred it on the fire to thicken, add the juice of a lemon, and pour it over the pieces of eels in the pie-dish ; place some hard yolks of eggs on the top; cover with puff-paste; ornament the top; egg it over, bake for about an hour, and serve, either hot or cold. No. 734.—TO CURE HAMS. Prepare the following ingredients in the pickling trough: viz.,—to six pounds of common salt add four ounces of saltpetre, two ounces of sal-prunella, three- quarters of a pound of moist sugar, twenty bay-leaves, thyme, marjoram, and winter-savoury in proportion ; one ounce of bruised cloves and mace, and an ounce of Ja- maica peppercorns, and four cloves of garlic. With clean cold hands rub this mixture thoroughly all over the hams for five successive mornings; and then add some wine lees: the hams should remain in this pickle for ten days longer, being turned over every morning in order that they may become well impregnated with the flavour. At the end of a fortnight, the hams being sufficiently pickled and salted, they must be put in press between boards, with heavy weights to press them flat; and at the end of twenty-four hours they must be rubbed over with pea-meal in which has been mixed a little salt; they are then to be smoked, for which purpose they should be arranged upon racks in a square shed so built that none of the smoke can issue except through the hole left purposely at the top for a chimney: the hams must be placed at about five feet from the fire, which is to be managed as follows: viz.,—first, place small heaps of dry red sawdust mixed with a small proportion of juniper berries, or branches, at about a foot distance from each other; and as soon as the heaps of sawdust are well lighted, lay some branches of wood containing sap across them; this not only increases the amount of smoke, but it also gives flavour to the hams: the smoking HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 293 must last about five days. The hams, when removed from the smoking-kiln, are to be placed in a cool, dry atmo- sphere, and will be fittest for dressing in about six months after curing. Let it be understood that the quantity of ingredients named in the first part of these directions would serve for a couple of hams only; but, when curing large quan- tities of hams, it is most proper to calculate the different proportions of the ingredients, by allowing four ounces of salt to the pound of meat. No. 735.—TO CURE BACON. Bear in mind that cleanliness is an important con- sideration in the operation of salting; it is necessary therefore to pay strict attention to the scalding out the bacon troughs before using them, and also to wash your hands in cold water with soap previously to your turning the bacon over in the troughs, and rubbing it with salt, &c. The process is to be managed as follows:- to every pound of meat allow four ounces of salt; and to every ten pounds of salt, six ounces of saltpetre, two ounces of sal-prunella, and half a pound of white sugar; rub the salt, &c., well into the bacon every morning for about twelve successive days, and at the end of that time let the sides of bacon be pressed between boards to keep them flat, for twenty-four hours; after which, rub them well over with peameal mixed with salt, and smoke them in the kiln in the same manner as recommended for hams. No. 736.—WELSH HAMS. A Welsh ham consists of a fat leg of mutton, cured and smoked like hams; for the preparation of which follow the directions contained in No. 734; and when about to dress Welsh hams for the table, remember that a piece of fat bacon should be cooked in the same pot, to nourish them and prevent them from being dry, and also to be cut in slices and served with these hams, as they have little or no fat of their own. THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND CHAPTER XIX. CAKES IN GENERAL. No. 737.—BRIOCHE-PASTE. Ingredients.—One pound of flour, ten ounces of butter, half an ounce of German-yeast, a teaspoonful each of salt and sugar, and about seven eggs. Put one-fourth part of the flour upon the slab; spread it out to form a well, then place the yeast in the centre, and proceed to dissolve it in a little tepid water; when this is effected, add sufficient water to mix the whole into a rather smooth paste, knead this into the form of a round ball, put it into a stewpan capable of containing three times its quantity, score it round the sides with a knife, put the lid on, and set it to rise in a rather warm place: in winter it may be put into the screen, but in hot weather the fermentation will proceed more satis- factorily if it is merely placed on the kitchen-table, or some such place of moderate warmth. This part of the operation is called setting the sponge. Next put the re- mainder of the flour on the slab, and spread it out in the centre to form the well; then place the salt and sugar, and a teaspoonful of water to dissolve these, after which the butter must be added; break in six eggs, and work the whole together with the hands until well mixed; first, working it between the hands, and then rubbing it with both fists held flat on the slab, and moving them to and fro, so as to thoroughly reduce any HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 295 remaining lumps in the paste. By the time the paste is mixed, the sponge will probably have risen suffi- ciently: to be perfect, it must rise to three times its original size; when spread out on the paste prepared to receive it, it should present the appearance of a sponge, from which it takes its name. Both the above should be then immediately gently, but thoroughly mixed. A napkin must be spread in a wooden bowl or basin, some flour shaken over it, and the brioche-paste lifted into it; then shake a little flour over the paste, and after throw- ing the ends of the napkin over all, set the bowl con- taining the paste in a cool place, free from any current of air. It is usual to make this kind of paste late in the evening, previously to the day on which it is required for use. The first thing on the following morning the brioche-paste must be turned off the napkin on to the slab; then shake some flour under and over it, and fold the paste over half a dozen times, pressing it down with the knuckles each time ; put the paste back again into the bowl, in the same way as before ; and about three hours afterwards, knead it again in a similar manner previously to its being baked. If the paste, when finished, appears to be full of small globules of air, and is perfectly elastic to the touch, it is certain to be well made, and when baked, will be both light and of a bright, clear colour. If the paste is intended to be made into one brioche only, take five-sixths of it; mould this into the form of a round ball or cushion, and place it in a plain mould or paper case, described page 296 (previously spread with butter), with the smooth surface uppermost; press it down in the case with the knuckles, and, after moulding the remaining piece of paste in a similar manner, first wet the surface of the other part over with the paste-brush dipped in water, and then, after inserting the pointed end of this into the centre of that portion of the brioche which has been already placed in the case, press the head down upon it with the back of the hand; egg the brioche over 296 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND with a paste-brush; score the sides slightly, in a slanting direction; place it on a baking-sheet, and put it in the oven (at moderate heat). As soon as the brioche begins to rise, and has acquired a slight degree of colour, let it be covered over with a sheet of paper: about one hour will suffice to bake a large brioche of the quantity of paste described in this article. Note.—Brioches may be varied in their form, when intended to be served as fancy-bread for breakfast, &c.; in which case, they should be moulded in the shape of twists, fingers, rings, &c. When served on the refresh- ment-table, at routs, public breakfasts, balls, &c., dried cherries, citron, candied-orange, or lemon-peel, pine- apple, or angelica, steeped in some kind of liqueur, may be introduced ; in either of these cases, previously to mix. ing in the fruit, part of the paste must be reserved, which, after being rolled out, must be used to enclose the other part of the brioche. This precaution is necessary to prevent the fruit from protruding through the paste, as it becomes calcined by the heat of the oven, and gives an unsightly appearance to the cake. When fruit has been mixed in a brioche, it should be (when baked) glazed with fine sugar by the salamander. Gruyère, and Parmesan cheese, in equal proportions, are sometimes introduced in a brioche, for a second-course remove: the first should be cut up in dice, the latter grated. As in the above cases, this kind of brioche must be enclosed in a portion of the paste reserved for that purpose. Note. - The case alluded to, page 295, is thus made :- for a large brioche intended to be served as a second course remove, take a large sheet of Bristol board, and cut a band from this, measuring about two feet long by eight inches broad; the two ends should be sewn together with strong thread, and some small bands of paper, smeared over with flour-and-water paste, should be stuck over the sewing to make it more secure. This hoop should then be placed upon a circular piece of the DOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT, 297 pasteboard, out to fit its circumference, and both these must be securely fastened together by placing small strips of paper pasted over all round the angle of the bottom of the case ; these must be placed close together, and crosswise, with one end fastened under the case, while the other is lapped round the angle, and fastened at the side. These strips of paper, after becoming very dry, should receive another row over them, to make the case stronger. No. 738.—BABA, OR POLISH CAKE Ingredients :—Two pounds of flour, twenty ounces of butter, four ounces of sugar, six ounces of muscatel raisins, four ounces of currants, two ounces of candied- citron, a good pinch of saffron, two wineglasses of brandy, and the same quantity of rum, half an ounce of salt, about fifteen eggs, and one ounce and a half of German-yeast. First, set the sponge with one-fourth part of the flour and the yeast, in the same way as directed for prepar- ing brioche. Then spread out the remainder of the flour so as to form a hollow in the centre; place in this the butter and salt, previously dissolved with a spoonful of water, four ounces of pounded sugar, and break in fifteen eggs : mix the whole thoroughly, working the paste with the hands on the slab. When this is effected, gather the paste up closely, and take up portions of it with the hands, and jerk or throw these down again on the other part of the paste; continue working it in this fashion for five minutes, then, if the sponge is sufficiently risen, spread it out over the paste, and mix both together lightly. A large mould should now be spread with butter, and lined with a thin coating of the paste, and as soon as this has been effected, all the fruit, the rum, the brandy, and an infusion of the saffron must be added, the whole of which must be instantly well mixed, and lifted into the mould. 298 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND The baba should next be sot to rise gradually, in a place where the temperature is moderate, and free from any current of air; and as soon as it has risen in a satisfactory manner, which may easily be known by its increasing sufficiently in quantity (through fermen. tation) to nearly fill the mould—although at first only half filled—the baba should be immediately placed in the oven on a thick baking-sheet, with a thick roll of paper round the bottom of the mould to protect the baba from receiving too much heat at first. From one hour and a half to two hours will suffice to bake it. Particular care should be taken in baking the baba to prevent its acquiring a deep colour: to obviate this, it must be baked in an oven of moderate heat. No. 739.—COMPIEGNE CAKE. Ingredients :—Two pounds of flour, twenty-two ounces if butter, half a pint of double cream, six ounces of pounded sugar, two wineglasses of maraschino, one ounce and a half of German-yeast, fifteen eggs, and half an ounce of salt. Set the sponge with one-fourth part of the flour and the yeast in the usual way, see Brioche, No. 737, and while it is rising, prepare the paste as follows:- place the remainder of the flour on the marble slab; spread it it out in the centre to form the well ; place in this the salt and sugar (with a very little water to dissolve the salt), the butter and eggs, and proceed to mix these thoroughly in the same way as brioche ; just before adding the sponge, mix in the maraschino and the whipped cream. The paste must be instantly lifted into an appropriate-sized mould previously spread with butter, and deposited in a comparatively cool place to rise, or ferment in the usual manner; as soon as it has nearly reached the surface of the mould, stick a band of paper round the edge, and put it in the oven to bake at a very moderate heat, remembering that an HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 299 essential characteristic of this kind of cake is a light colour. It is customary to eat the Compiègne cake hot; and it is served in various ways. When turned out of the mould, a small piece should be taken out of the centre of the top, and a glass of maraschino poured in through the opening; or the cake may be cut up in horizontal slices, half an inch thick, and previously to putting them together again, some apricot marmalade may be placed between each. Dried cherries and angelica may be introduced in the composition of these cakes, previously to their being baked. No. 740.—GERMAN KOUGLAUFFE. Ingredients :—Two pounds of flour, one pound and a quarter of butter, eight whole eggs, and eight yolks ; one and a half ounce of German-yeast, four ounces of sugar, half an ounce of cinnamon powder, and grated lemon peel, or the rind of lemon-peel rubbed on lump- sugar and afterwards scraped off; half an ounce of salt, half a pint of double cream, and six ounces of Jordan almonds. First, place the butter in a convenient-sized white kitchen-pan, and work it with a clean wooden spoon for about ten minutes, by which time the butter should present the appearance of a thick cream; the cinnamon, lemon and sugar, the pounded sugar, about one-fourth part of the flour, and three eggs, should then be added, and the whole quickly worked together for a few minutes ; then add the remainder of the flour and eggs gradually, still continuing to work the paste with a wooden spoon. When the whole has been used up, spread the paste out in the centre, and add the yeast (previously dissolved with the salt in the cream made tepid for the purpose); work the whole thoroughly, then pour this batter into a large mould, previously spread with butter; split the almonds and place them round the inside of the mould in close order. Bako 300 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND the kouglauffe in an oven of moderate heat. Its coloru should be of a bright-reddish yellow. In Germany, it is customary to shake some cinnamon- sugar all over this kind of cake, as soon as it is turned out of the mould. No. 741.—PARISIAN CAKE. Ingredients :—Two pounds of flour, twenty ounces of butter, six ounces of sugar, eight whole eggs and eight yolks, one pint of single cream, eight ounces of Jordan almonds, and two ounces of bitter ditto, eight ounces of pistachio kernels, four ounces of candied orange-peel, half an ounce of salt, one and a half ounce of yeast. First, let the pistachio kernels be scalded; remove the hulls; split each kernel into four strips, and place these aside in a small basin. The candied orange-peel must then be shred into small thin narrow strips, and put with the pistachios. Next, remove the hulls from the almonds, wash and pound them into a very soft paste (adding a few drops of water to prevent them from becoming oily); then mix them with the cream, and after they have been steeped for half an hour, let the whole be rubbed through a tammy, the same as a purée, and kept in a very cool place until wanted for use. For mixing this cake, follow in all respects the direc- tions given for the German kouglauffe, No. 740, adding the pistachios and orange-peel after lining the mould with the plain paste; the yeast must be dissolved in a little tepid water, and the almonds and cream added cold. It should be baked nearly of the same colour as a Savoy cake. Note. It is necessary to put all these cakes back in the oven for two or three minutes, after they are turned out of the mould, to prevent them from becoming shrivelled on the surface, or from otherwise shrinking and falling in, which is unavoidably the case when any steam has collected upon them. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER S ASSISTANT. 301 No. 742.–VICTORIA CAKE. Ingredients :—Two pounds of flour, twenty ounces of butter, twelve eggs, six ounces of pounded sugar, six ounces of ground almonds, also a few bitter ditto, eight ounces of dried cherries, four ounces of green citron cut up into shreds, half an ounce of cinnamon- powder, half a pint of whipped cream, one and a half ounce of German-yeast, two wineglasses of brandy, and half an ounce of salt. Mix the above ingredients according to the directions given for the German kouglauffe, except that the yeast must be dissolved in a spoonful of tepid water, and the cream whipped last of all previously to its being added. When the cake is mixed, it should be placed in a tin hoop, measuring about ten inches in diameter by four inches deep; a double sheet of paper, spread with butter, should first be placed on a stout copper baking- sheet, and the hoop, also lined with paper, next placed upon it, ready to receive the mixture. As soon as the fermentation of the paste has taken place in a satis- factory degree, causing it to increase to twice its ori- ginal quantity, let it be immediately put in the oven (at moderate heat), and baked of a light colour. This kind of cake may be served as a second-course remove ; some apricot marmalade diluted with a little lemon-juice, and warmed, should be sent to table with it separately in a sauce-boat; or, if preferred, instead of the apricot, some almond custard, No. 93. No. 743.—SAVARIN CAKE. Ingredients :—Two pounds of flour, four ounces of sugar, twenty ounces of fresh butter, fifteen eggs, half an ounce of salt, one ounce and a half of German-yeast, and four ounces of shred almonds. First, set the sponge with one-fourth part of the flour, in the same manner as directed for making brioche then, while the sponge is placed in a moderate tem 302 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND perature, to admit of its rising gradually and satis- factorily, place the remainder of the flour in a large white pan or basin; hollow out the centre, and having first placed therein the salt moistened with a teaspoonful of water, the butter, sugar, and ten whole eggs broken, proceed to manipulate the whole with the right hand, beating up the paste until it easily leaves the sides of the pan; you then break in the remainder of the eggs, -two at a time, until the paste has absorbed the whole; and, after having continued to work it five minutes longer, proceed to fill an appropriate-sized mould with it, in the following manner :—first, let the inside of the mould be well buttered, after which strew the shred almonds equally over and about the surface of the interior; next, work the paste up again for a minute or two, and put a sufficient quantity into the mould to rather more than half fill it. You now place the savarin in a moderate tempera- ture to rise until it has nearly filled the mould; when, after first sticking a broad band of thick paper round the upper part of the mould, so as effectually to prevent the batter from running over the sides of the mould while it is being baked, put it in an oven of moderate heat, and bake it for about two hours. When done, turn the savarin out of the mould, and after running a knife into several parts of the surface, pour gently a rather thick orange-syrup containing a glassful of curaçoa over and into the savarin, and send to table quite warm. This kind of cake is sometimes, in order to vary its appearance, after being first well soaked with a warm rich syrup, rolled all over in orange or lemon sugar. No. 744.—SAVOY CAKE. Ingredients :—One pound of the finest quality of sugar (pounded), fourteen eggs, four ounces and a half of the finest flour, and four ounces and a half of Brown and Polson's patent corn-flour. KOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 303 First, separate the yolks from the whites of eggs, taking care not to drop the least portion of the yolks into the whites, as any mixture of these renders it impossible to whisk the whites firm. The yolks must be put into a kitchen-basin, and the whites into an egg-bowl, to be kept in a cool place until used ; add the sugar to the yolks ; throw in as much salt as will stand on a sixpence, and either some vanilla, lemon, or orange-sugar, or else, a few drops of any kind of essence, such as orange, lemon, orange-flowers, vanilla, or bitter-almonds. Work these together with a wooden spoon, until the whole presents the appearance of a thick creamy batter. The whites must now be whisked into a firm substantial snowy froth; and while this is going on, let both the flours be well mixed in with the batter. As soon as the whites are satisfactorily whisked, proceed to mix them in with the batter: they must be added in small quantities at first, until it has become smoothly diluted; the whole of what remains should then be added, and gently, yet thoroughly, mixed. The batter thus prepared must now be gently poured into a mould previously got ready for the pur- pose in the following manner :—about one pound of beef or veal-suet should be first chopped very fine, then melted down in a stewpan; after it has been strained through a napkin, pour this into the mould, turn it round in all directions, so that the fat may touch all the angles and recesses; it must then be poured out, and the mould should be turned upside- down on a plate, and allowed to stand in a warn place for a few minutes that the fat may be entirely drained off. About one pound of the finest-sifted sugar should now be immediately put in the mould, and shaken about in it, in order that it may effectually cover the whole of the inside of the mould with a perfectly smooth white surface or coating. Care must be taken to avoid leaving a greater quantity of fat adhering to the sides of the mould than is positively necessary; 304 THE COOK 8 GUIDE, AND for, if there be too thick a coating of sugar in the mould, the Savoy cake will be more difficult to bake of a light colour ; the heat of the oven being liable to partially calcine the sugar, and thus darken its hue, and spoil its beauty. When the Savoy cake is ready to be baked, tie a broad band of paper (folded in three) round the base, and put a few wood-ashes on the baking-sheet, pre- viously to placing the cake on it before putting it in the oven, which must be of very moderate heat; par- ticular care must be taken to keep it closed as much as possible while the cake is baking, and also not to increase its temperature afterwards: this may be easily avoided if the oven be substantially built; by its being properly heated at first, it will then retain for some time an even temperature. It is impossible to determine the exact length of time that this, or indeed any other cake should remain in the oven before it is done; this will mainly depend upon the construction of the oven, and partly on the necessity there may be for occasionally opening it during the process of baking the cake. The best way to ascertain whether the cake is done, is to run a wooden skewer down the centre, and if, when with- drawn, the skewer is dry, and free from any portion of the cake in an unbaked state, it will be safe to turn it out of the mould: it should then be of a light colour and smooth surface. Note.—Savoy cakes may also be made by using twelve, sixteen, or even twenty eggs to one pound of sugar; but when a cake of large size is required, the propor- tions must be at the rate of twelve, fourteen, or at the utmost sixteen eggs to one pound of sugar: even in the latter case, such batter would not prove successful where four pounds are required to fill one mould. Savoy-cake batter, made in the proportion of sixteen or twenty eggs to one pound of sugar, is best adapted for small sponge-cakes, finger-biscuits, drops, &c. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 305 The whites must be whisked slowly at first, increasing the motion of the hand gradually until it reaches the greatest possible speed; the motion of the whisk must be kept up at this rate until the whites are become sufficiently firm, when they must be instantly mixed with the batter, otherwise they are liable, by partial decomposition, to lose their consistency. No. 745.—FINGER, OR NAPLES BISCUITS. Prepare the batter as directed in the foregoing case ; then fill a biscuit-forcer (see Adams' Illustrations with some of it, and after securely folding down the open end, proceed to use the batter in the following manner :—cut a sheet of foolscap paper in two; fold these lengthwise, in order to mark a straight line along the centre of the half-sheets; the forcer must then be held in the right hand, pressing the batter out by working the thumb upon it, while the pointed end must be guided with the left hand. In this manner the biscuits must be spread, or rather dropped, in straight lines, resembling fingers, about three inches long by half an inch wide; they should form two rows, being divided by the line in the centre of the paper. When the sheet is full, place it upon a large sheet of kitchen-paper, containing about one pound of the finest-sifted sugar, placed in the form of a ridge along the upper part of the paper as it lies on the table before you; the sheet containing the biscuits being placed just below the sugar, it will only be necessary to lift up the other paper at each corner with the hands, and by giving it a slight jerk, the sugar will be thrown on to the biscuits ; then, by taking hold of the paper—holding the biscuits at each upper corner, and gently shaking it, as it is held up in a perpendicular position--the sugar will be made to slide over the whole at once. By this means the biscuits are effec- tually glazed without waste. The finger-biscuits must be immediately placed on 306 THE COOK'S GUIDE. AND baking-sheet, and put in the oven (at very moderate heat); about a quarter of an hour will suffice to bake them. When done, they should be of a very light- yellow colour. Note.— With the same kind of batter, and by using a biscuit-forcer, the shape of these small biscuits may be easily varied according to taste or fancy. These biscuit- forcers are also made of tin, resembling the point of a funnel in shape: they have a bag of wash-leather, or canvas cloth, affixed round the upper part, with a string running through the top, which, when the bag is filled with batter, is drawn tight; thus effectually preventing it from escaping at the upper end while it is forced out at the point below. The use of this utensil, however, is objectionable, from the leather or canvas contracting a nauseous odour. In other re- spects, it answers the purpose well enough (see Adams' Illustrations). No. 746.—PLUM-CAKE. Ingredients required :—One pound and a half of flour, one pound and a half of butter, one pound of fine sugar, one pound of dried cherries (slightly chopped), one pound and a half of currants, one pound and a half of candied-orange, lemon, and citron peel—in equal quantities; all these must be cut in small shreds : eight ounces of ground or pounded almonds, eight whole eggs, the rest or rind of four oranges (rubbed on a piece of sugar and afterwards scraped off), half an ounce of ground spices, consisting of cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, mixed in equal proportions, half a pint of Cognac brandy, and a teaspoonful of salt. Place the butter in a large white earthen pan, and work it with a wooden spoon until it presents the ap- pearance of a creamy substance; next add gradually the flour, sugar, and the eggs, still continuing to work the butter the whole time; when these have been thoroughly mixed, add the cherries, currants, candied- HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 307 peel, ground almonds; brandy, spices, and salt niust also be added gradually. As soon as these ingredients are incorporated with the butter, let the preparation be poured into a convenient-sized tin (previously lined with doubled bands of buttered paper), and placed on a stout-made copper baking-sheet, with two sheets of buttered paper under the cake, to prevent the composi- tion from becoming calcined by the heat of the oven. A moderate heat will be sufficient to bake the cake, and care must be taken not to put any fire under the oven, so as to increase the heat. These cakes, when baked, should be iced over with sugar in the following manner :- First, mix eight ounces of very fine pounded almonds, with double that quantity of fine-sifted sugar, a little orange-water, and sufficient white of eggs, to form the whole into a soft paste; spread a coating of this all over the surface of the cake (after it has become cold), and when it is hardened by drying, let the whole be iced over with the following preparation :- Place about six whites of eggs in a convenient-sized basin; add about one pound and a half of the finest-sifted loaf-sugar, and work these well together with a clean wooden spoon, adding occasionally a little lemon-juice, until the whole presents the appearance of a very thick yet comparatively liquid shiny substance of a pure white. Use this icing to mask the entire surface of the cake with a coating of about a quarter of an inch thick ; allow this to become firmly set, by drying, for which purpose the cake should be placed in a warm tem- perature, and kept covered with a large sheet of paper to preserve it from dust, &c. When the icing has be- come perfectly hard, decorate the top and sides of the cake with raised ornaments of gum-paste (stamped out from boards cut for the purpose), and arranged with taste, either in the form of garlands, wreaths, scrolls, &c.; or else the cake may be decorated with piping, using for that purpose some of the icing worked some what thicker, by adding to it more sugar. x 2: 308 THE COOK GUIDE, AND When intended for a wedding-cake, the ornaments must be all white, and some blossoms and sprigs, or even wreaths of orange-flowers should also be intro- duced. No. 747.—SCOTCH BREAD. Ingredients : One pound of flour, one pound of sugar, one pound of butter, eight eggs, half a pound of candied- lemon, orange, and citron peel—in equal proportions; a gill of Cognac brandy, a very little salt, and four ounces of white comfits. Put the butter in a basin; work it with a wooden spoon until it presents the appearance of thick cream; then add the flour, sugar, eggs, and salt gradually, throwing in a handful of each, and two eggs at a time; when the whole is thoroughly mixed, the candied-peel (cut in shreds), also the brandy and the rind of two oranges or lemons (rubbed on sugar) must next be added. This paste should now be poured into tins of an oblong shape, about two inches deep, spread with butter; and after the comfits have been strewn over the surface, a little fine sugar should be shaken over the top previously to placing them in the oven on baking- sheets: they must be baked of a very light colour. Note. This kind of cake is a general favourite in Scotland, being served on most occasions at breakfast, luncheon, or for casual refreshment, and also with dessert. No. 748.—PLAIN SEED CAKE. Ingredients :—One quartern of dough, six eggs, eight ounces of sugar, eight ounces of butter, half an ounce of carraway-seeds, and a teaspoonful of salt. Spread the dough out on the pastry-slab, then add the whole of the above-named ingredients; work them well together with the hands, so as thoroughly to in- corporate them with the dough: the eggs should be added two at a time. When the paste, is ready, put it into a plain mould HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 309 (previously spread with butter), and set it to rise in a warm place. As soon as the fermentation has taken place in a satisfactory manner, the cake should be immediately put into the oven, and baked of a light colour. When done, serve it cold, for luncheon or otherwise. This kind of cake may be varied by introducing raisins, currants, or candied orange or lemon peel. No. 749.—BRUSSELS BISCUITS OR RUSKS. Ingredients required :—One pound of flour, ten ounces of butter, half an ounce of German-yeast, four ounces of sugar, four whole eggs, and four yolks, a teaspoonful of salt, and a gill of cream. Mix the paste in the manner described for the preparation of the Compiègne cake, excepting that this must be beaten with the hand on the slab until it presents an appearance of elasticity; the sponge should then be added, and after the whole has been well worked once more, the paste must be placed in long narrow tins, about two inches deep, and of about the same width, preparatory to placing the paste in the moulds : these should be first well buttered and floured inside (to prevent the paste from sticking), then the paste rolled out to their own lengths, and about one inch and a half thick, dropped into them, and set in a warm place to rise. When the paste has sufficiently risen, it must be gently turned out on a baking-sheet, previously spread with butter, then egged all over with a soft paste-brush, and baked of a bright, deep-yellow colour. When done, out it up in slices about a quarter of an inch thick ; place them flat on a baking-sheet, and put them again in the oven to acquire a light-yellow colour on both sides. These form a superior kind of rusks, and are well adapted for the refreshment-table at evening parties, or for the breakfast-table. 310 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND Note.—Rusks may also be made with brioche-paste, pound-cake, or Savoy-cake; in the latter case, a few carraway-seeds are sometimes added No. 750.—POUND-CAKE. Ingredients required :—One pound of flour, one pound of butter, one pound of sugar, eight eggs, a wineglass of brandy, a little salt, and the rind of two oranges or lemons rubbed on sugar. Place the butter in a basin, and work it with a wooden spoon, until it assumes the appearance of thick cream; then add the flour, sugar, and the eggs gradually; when the whole is thoroughly incorporated, add the brandy, sugar, and salt; mix well together, and bake the cakes in any kind of mould (previously spread with butter), or in a tin hoop lined with buttered paper. Plums, currants, almonds, pistachio-kernels, candied-peel, or dried cherries may be added. No. 751.—FLEMISH GAUFFRES. Ingredients required :—Twelve ounces of flour, six ounces of butter, six eggs, one ounce of yeast, half a pint of milk, half a pint of cream (whipped), the rind of two oranges rubbed on sugar, or a stick of vanilla; pounded with half an ounce of sugar, and a little salt. Put the flour into a gallon-sized basin; spread it out in the centre; then add the milk (with the yeast dissolved in it over the fire until the whole becomes tepid); mix these gradually and thoroughly; then take the spoon out, scrape the sides of the basin with a knife, cover it with paper, and set the batter to rise in the screen. When the sponge has increased to twice its original quantity, the butter should be first merely melted by the fire, and then added with the salt, orange sugar, and two whole eggs. Mix these in well with the sponge; then add the whipped cream, and the yolks of four eggs; and lastly, having whipped the four whites into a substantial froth, mix them lightly in with the batter, and HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 311 again set it to rise in a warm place, either on the top of the screen, or on the kitchen-table, that it may rise to twice its original quantity. While the batter is being prepared, let the gauffre-irons be heated over the flame of a charcoal-fire; and when sufficiently hot to admit of their baking the gauffres, run a little clarified butter through them with a paste-brush; then fill one side of the irons with some of the batter, handling it gently with a spoon; close the irons, and then turn them upside down (that the batter may run into the opposite side) and set them over the flame of the char- coal fire; and when done of a bright-yellow colour on one side, turn the irons over, that the gauffres may be baked also on the other side. They must then be turned out of the irons, and after the edges have been trimmed with a pair of scissors, set them in the oven or before a fire on a baking-sheet covered with paper. Repeat this until the whole of the batter is used up; then shake some orange, lemon, or vanilla sugar over them; pile them up neatly on a napkin, and serve. These gauffres are generally served as a remove in the second course. No. 752.- FRENCH GAUFFRES. Ingredients required :—Eight ounces of flour, four ounces of pounded sugar, one pint of whipped cream, eight eggs, one stick of vanilla, a little salt, and a glass of curaçoa. Place the flour, sugar, and salt in a basin; then add the yolks of eggs, the pounded vanilla, and the curaçoa, and mix these well together, gradually adding the whipped cream just before using the batter; add the whipped whites of eggs, and mix them in lightly so as to thoroughly incorporate them with it. Bake these gauffres in the same way as the foregoing, observing, however, that the iron be very carefully heated, and the superfluous heal allowed to go off pre- viously to filling them with the batter, for owing to tha HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 313 with vanilla, orange-flowers, or maraschino, and some strawberries placed on the top of this: they are some- times also garnished with vanilla-cream ice. Note.—This kind of gauffres may be varied in their appearance, by strewing some currants, or finely-shred or chopped pistachios over the surface, previously to their being placed in the oven. No. 754.—NOUGATS. ? EU TIMO NOUGAT OF ALMONDB Ingredients required :—Two pounds of Jordan almonds and one pound of sifted sugar. Scald the almonds; remove the skins; and after they have been washed and dried in a napkin, split each almond into halves; then place them on a baking-sheet, and put them in a slow oven to acquire a very light- fawn colour. While the almonds are undergoing this process in the oven, place the sugar in a convenient- sized sugar-boiler, and stir it with a wooden spoon over a slow fire to melt; as soon as it is entirely dissolved, and begins to form small purling bubbles on the surfano, 314 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND the almonds (which by this time should be ready and quite hot) must be instantly thrown in, and very gently mixed with the sugar, care being taken not to break or bruise them. The vessel containing the nougat should be kept at the entrance of the oven, or near the stove-fire, so as to prevent its becoming cold before it is used up. The mould intended to be used must then be first carefully oiled inside with a paste-brush, and set to drain on a plate that the super- fluous oil may run off. Some of the nougat should now be dropped on a slightly-oiled baking-sheet, and spread out with a lemon to the thickness of about the eighth of an inch, and as these pieces are pressed or spread out, they must be immediately placed in the mould and pressed into its form with the assistance of the fingers and a lemon, and made to adhere effectually to each other: great celerity must be used in this part of the operation, as in the event of the nougat being allowed to become brittle by cooling, it would be found impos- sible to build it up unless by melting, which is seldom found to succeed. When the nougat has become set by cooling, turn it out of the mould, and serve it on a napkin, or upon an ornamental stand. The foregoing proportions, as well as the directions for splitting the almonds, refer only to large nougats; when it is intended to make a smaller one, the almonds should be shred. In all cases, the proportion of almonds and sugar should be two of the former and one of the latter. For the purpose of varying their appearance, as soon as the nougat is turned out of the mould, some shred pistachios, kernels, and rough granite-sugar* should be strewed over its surface. * Granite-sugar is generally prepared by breaking up some loaf sugar of the finest quality into very small pieces with the end of rolling-pin ; after sifting away all the fine sugar, the pieces are then passed through a colander with large holes : all that passes through this may be used for the above purpose. But when the granite required finer, it must be riddled through a wire sieve GOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 916 No. 754A.-CORNUCOPIA. Ona Ooo 00000 CORNUCOPIA, Prepare some nougat as in No. 754; use a mould in the form of a cornucopia to shape it; adjust this on a small stand made of the same material, using for that purpose a little sugar boiled to the snap; ornament it with icing piped on in some such design as represented in the woodcut, and fill the hollow of the cornucopia with a gracefully-arranged group of either real fruits caramelled, or else of imitations of fruits made of sugar, which are easily obtained of all confectioners. No. 755.—PARISAN NOUGATS. Ingredients required :—Eight ounces of pistachio-ker- nels, four ounces of sugar, and one stick of vanilla. Scald the pistachios; remove the skins; absorb all the moisture by gently rubbing them in a napkin; ther. split each kernel into halves, and put them to dry on a baking-sheet in the screen; pound the vanilla with one ounce of sugar; sift it, and then put this and the four ounces of pounded sugar into a small sugar-boiler, together with a teaspoonful of the prepared extract of cochineal. Stir these over the stove-fire with a wooden 316 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND spoon until the sugar is entirely melted, and as soon as it begins to purl on the surface, immediately add the pistachios, and gently mix the whole together, taking care not to bruise the pistachios. The nougat must now be spread out in the form of a square, on a baking-sheet or marble slab (previously oiled), to the thickness of about the eighth part of an inch ; some roughly-broken granite sugar should be strewed over the surface, and before it becomes cold, the square must be divided into two bands, and then again each of these cut into about a dozen small oblong nougats: when about to send to table, pile them up in close circular rows on a napkin, and serve. No. 756.—SMALL, NOUGATS A LA CHANTILLY. Ingredients required :—Three-quarters of a pound of ripe filberts and six ounces of pounded sugar. Scald the nuts; remove the skin; then split each kernel in four—lengthwise, and put them to dry on a baking-sheet in the oven; meanwhile stir the sugar in the boiler over the fire in the usual manner; and as soon as it is ready, mix in the above; have half a dozen small dariole-moulds ready oiled inside; put some of the nougat into each of the moulds, and use a small stick made of hard wood, half an inch in diameter, to work the nougat up the sides or into the flutes of the moulds; pare away all that may rise above the edge of the moulds, and then turn them out on to a baking- sheet; abouteighteen will suffice for a dish. Several persons should assist in moulding these nougats, in order to insure their all being of one colour; otherwise, from being frequently obliged to warm the nougat, it is liable to become dark. When about to send these nougats to table, each should be filled with some whipped cream flavoured with vanilla or maraschino, and a few strawberries (when in season) placed on the top; dish them up neatly in pyrainidal form on a napkin. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 317 No. 757.- GENOESE CAKE. Ingredients required :—Half a pound of flour, half a pound of sugar, half a pound of butter, four eggs, a small glass of brandy, and a little salt. Mix the flour, sugar, eggs, brandy, and salt well together in a basin with a wooden spoon; then add the butter (merely melted by the side of the fire), and when this is thoroughly incorporated with the batter, pour it into an appropriate-sized baking-sheet (previously spread with butter), to the thickness of about a quarter of an inch, and bake this in an oven moderately heated. When the Genoese paste is done, it should be turned out upon a sheet of paper, and cut or stamped out, either in circular, oblong, oval, angular, leaf-like, or any other fancy shape that taste may suggest. These may then be decorated with white of egg and sugar prepared as for meringues (No. 766), or with icing prepared as directed for wedding-cakes (No. 746), and ornamented with pistachio-kernels, currants, &c. Those cut in the form of leaves, rings, oblongs, &c., may be ornamented by forming a design composed of leaves and pearls (using for that purpose some meringue-paste in a paper cornet, or small biscuit forcer). When the Genoese cakes are ornamented in this manner, shake some fine sugar over them with a dredger, and dry them either in the screen or at the entrance of the oven ; then, finish decorating them by placing some neat stripes or dots of any kind of bright preserve, such as red- currant jelly, apple jelly, apricot jam, greengage jam, &c., between the leaves or pearls of the white-of-egg decoration. By these means a very pretty effect is produced ; and as no artificial or unwholesome substance is used in its composition, it may be partaken of with safety. No. 758.—GENOESE CAKES WITH ALMONDS. Prepare these as directed in the foregoing case, and when they are nearly done, mask the surface with the 318 THE COOK'S GUDE, AND white of an egg beaten up with an ounce of sifted sugar, then strew four ounces of chopped almonds mixed with two ounces of sugar, and a few drops of orange-flower water, all over the coating of egg; shake a little sugar over the top of this, and put the Genoese cakes back again in the oven to finish baking. When done, the coating of almonds should be of a light-fawn colour: they must then be carefully removed from the baking-sheet, cut or stamped out in shapes according to fancy, and dished up on a napkin, in a pyramidal form. No. 759.—MADELEINES. These are made with the same kind of batter as Genoese cakes, to which currants, dried cherries, candied- peel or angelica may be added. When the batter is ready, let it be poured into a sufficient number of small fluted or plain dariole or madeleine moulds (previously buttered inside); these must be placed on a baking-sheet spread with some charcoal-ashes to the depth of half an inch, and then baked in an oven of moderate heat. When they are done, turn them out of the moulds, and dish them up in a pyramidal form: these cakes may also be partially emptied, then filled up with some kind of preserve, and the small circular piece, removed previously to taking out the crumb, should be replaced. No. 760.—SPANISH CAKES. PETITS-CHOUX. Ingredients required :—Half a pint of milk or water, four ounces of butter, two ounces of sugar, five ounces of flour, three eggs, a few drops of essence of orange, a very little salt, and two ounces of chopped almonds. Put the water, butter, sugar, and the salt into a stewpan on the fire, and as soon as these begin to boil, withdraw the stewpan from the fire and add the flour; stir the whole well together with a wooden spoon over the stove-fire for about three minutes ; by which time HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 319 the ingredients should present the appearance of a soft compact paste. The essence of orange (or any other kind of flavour) should now be added, and also one egg. Incorporate those with the paste ; then mix in the other two eggs; and if the paste should be stiff, another egg, or a yolk only, may be added. This paste should now be laid out on a baking-sheet in small round balls the size of a pigeon's egg, egged over with a paste-brushi, some chopped almonds (mixed with a spoonful of pounded sugar, and a very small quantity of white of egg) strewn upon them, with some sifted sugar shaken over, and then baked of a very light colour. These cakes may be served plain, or garnished inside with cream or some kind of preserve. No. 761.—DUCHESS LOAVES. These are made of the same kind of paste as the foregoing : this must be laid out on the pastry-slab, in small pieces, about the size of a pigeon's egg; then rolled out with a little flour, in the form of a finger, and placed in order upon a baking-sheet spread with butter; they should now be egged over, and baked of a bright- light colour: just before they are quite done, shake some finely-sifted sugar over them, set them back again in the oven until the sugar is nearly melted, and then pass the red-hot salamander over them, to give them a bright glossy appearance. The loaves must now be immediately withdrawn from the oven and allowed to cool; just before sending this kind of pastry to table, make an incision down the sides, and fill the small loaves with apricot jam ; then dish them up in a pyramidal form on a napkin, and serve. No. 761a.—PETITS-CHOUX WITH CARAMEL. Prepare these as the above, except that they must be rolled and baked in the form of round balls, which, when done, should be about the size of an egg. About 320 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND two ounces of roughly-chopped pistachios, a few cleaned currants, and an equal proportion of loaf-sugar chopped small should be mixed together on a plate ; then boil about four ounces of sugar to the snap, first dipping each petit-choux slightly in it, then gently roll it in the prepared pistachios, &c., so as to mask its surface with them; when the whole have been thus passed in the sugar caramel, allow them to cool previously to dishing them up. No. 762.—PROFITROLLES. Prepare two dozen petits-choux, as directed in the first part of the foregoing article; when they are baked, and have become cold, cut a circular piece from the top of each about the size of a shilling; then fill them with some custard prepared as follows:—put the yolks of four eggs into a small stewpan, with two ounces of pounded sugar, a good tablespoonful of flour, two ounces of grated chocolate, and a very little salt; mix these well together with half a pint of cream, add a small pat of butter; then stir the whole over the stove-fire, and allow it to boil for about ten minutes. This custard should now be passed through a tammy (with pressure) into a basin, and when it has become cold, three table- spoonfuls of whipped cream should be added; then serve. The custard may also be flavoured with either lemon, orange, vanilla, orange-flower, or any kind of liqueur, in which case chocolate must be omitted. No. 763.—MECCA LOAVES. The paste of these is prepared as in the foregoing cases, with the addition, however, of a few spoonfuls of whipped cream, which must only be incorporated just previously to the loaves being laid out on the baking. sheet, in the following manner :--take a tablespoon, and fill it half full from the stewpan containing the paste; then dip the point of a knife in some beaten egg, and use it to force the paste from the spoon gently HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 321 dropping it on the baking-sheet, in the form of gher- kins, pointed at the ends and elevated at the centre; fill the baking-sheet with these, placing them about two inches distant from each other, egg them over, shake some fine-chopped loaf-sugar (about the size of small hail-stones) over them, then shake some sifted sugar over them, and put them in the oven (at very moderate heat) to bake of a bright-yellow colour. When the Mecca loaves are done, allow them to become cold; then after they have been dished up in double circular rows, fill the well or centre with some whipped cream, seasoned with a little sugar, and a small glass of liqueur, and serve. No. 764.—QUEEN'S CAKES. First, prepare eight yolks of eggs of nouilles-paste (No. 954), roll this out as thin as paper; cut it into bands, and shred these extremely fine; after the nouilles have been allowed to dry upon a sieve for a short time, put them into a convenient-sized stewpan, with a pint of boiling cream, two pats of butter, six ounces of sugar, and a glass of brandy; set them to boil very gently, over a slow stove-fire (covered with the lid), and when the cream has been absorbed by the nouilles, withdraw them; add the yolks of six eggs, and stir the whole well together; then place this preparation upon two baking- sheets (spread with butter), in layers about the eighth part of an inch thick, and bake them of a deep-yellow colour. When done, spread one of them with apricot jam; cover this over with the other, and then stamp the cakes out with a circular tin cutter in the form of half- moons; dish these up in circular rows, so as to form a cone, and serve. These cakes may also be garnished with any other kind of preserve, or even with pastry-custard (No. 790); they may be cut out in either oblong, circular, oval, leaf-like, or diamond shapes. In order to vary their appearance, their surface should be first lighty spread 322 THE COOK 8 GUIDE, AND with a little meringue-paste (No. 766), and then strewn with chopped or shred pistachios, granite sugar, or small pink, or white comfits. No. 765.-ALMOND CAKES. Ingredients :—Six ounces of flour, eight ounces of sugar, two ounces of ground or finely-pounded almonds (with a few bitter-almonds), six yolks of eggs, two whole eggs, four whites whipped, a glass of brandy, a little salt, four ounces of chopped almonds mixed with two ounces of sugar, and half the white of an egg. First, work the butter in a basin with a spoon, until it presents a creamy appearance ; next add the floor, sugar, almonds, brandy, eggs, and salt, gradually; then mix in the whipped white of eggs, lightly : pour this paste on a baking-sheet, about an inch and a half deep (previously buttered), and bake it of a light colour. When the cake is nearly done, spread the prepared chopped almonds over the top, and then put it back again into the oven to finish baking; when done, the almonds should be of a light-fawn colour. Turn the cake out carefully; and when cold, cut it up into bands of about an inch and a half wide; then again divide these into diamond-shaped cakes, and dish them up pyramidically. Some whipped cream may be placed in the centre of the dish, and the cakes neatly dished up round it. Dried cherries, sultana-raisins, currants, any kind of candied-peel, pistachios, or Spanish nuts, may be added. The cakes may also be flavoured with any kind of essence or liqueur. No. 766.—MERINGUES. Ingredients required :—One pound of sifted sugar and twelve whites of eggs. Whisk the whites in an egg-bowl, until they present the appearance of a perfectly white smooth substantial froth resembling snow; then substitute a spoon for the TICUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 323 whisk, and proceed to mix in the whole of the sugar lightly ; carefully avoid working the batter too much, for fear of rendering it soft, as in that case it becomes difficult to mould the meringues : they can never be so CCCCCOOO0000 slove00000000000000 MERINGUES A LA CREME. gracefully shaped as when it is kept firm. Next, cut some stiff foolscap paper into bands, about two inches wide; then take a tablespoon, and gather it nearly full of the batter by working it up at the side of the bowl in the form of an egg, and drop this slopingly upon one of the bands of paper, at the same time drawing the edge of the spoon sharply round the outer base of the meringue, so as to give to it a smooth and rounded appearance, in order that it may exactly resemble an Proceed in this manner until the band is full, keeping the meringues about two inches and a half apart from each other on the paper. As each band is filled, place them close beside each other on the slab or table, and when all the batter is used up, shake some rather coarse-sifted sugar all over them, and allow it to remain for about three minutes; then take hold of one of the bands at each end, shake off the loose sugar, and place the band of meringues on the board,* and so on with the * These boards must be made of seasoned wood, and should be about an inch thick: their size must of course depend upon the dimensions of the oven, allowing sufficient room for them to be turned round in it. v 2 324 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND other bands, which when p.aced carefully on the hoards closely side by side, must be put in the oven (at very moderate heat), and baked of a light-fawn colour. When done, each piece of meringue must be carefully removed off the paper, the white part of the inside scooped out with a dessert-spoon, and then nicely smoothed over; after this they must be placed in neat order on a baking-sheet, and put back again in the oven to dry, taking particular care that they do not acquire any more colour. When about to send the meringues to table, whip some double cream; season it with a little pounded sugar, and either a glass of any kind of liqueur, a few drops of orange-flower water, or some pounded vanilla : garnish each piece with a spoonful of this cream; join two together; dish them up in a pyramidal form on a napkin, and serve. Note.- Meringues may be made of all sizes, and may also be shaped in the form of small bunches of grapes ; for this purpose it is necessary to use a “ cornet" or biscuit-forcer, of paper, to mould the berries. In order to vary their appearance previously to shaking the sugar over them, some finely-shred pistachios or almonds, l'ough granite-sugar, and small currants, may be strewn over them. They may also be garnished with preserve, or any kind of iced-creams. No. 767.—ITALIAN BISCUITS. Ingredients : -Six eggs, eight ounces of pounded sugar, five ounces of flour, some orange or lemon-sugar for flavouring, a pinch of salt, and six ounces of chopped almonds. First, divide the yolks from the whites of the six eggs, placing the white in an egg-bowl and the yolks in a basin; add the sugar, the flavouring, and the salt to the yolks, and with a wooden spoon continue working them until they present the appearance of a rather stiff, creamy batter. Then add half the flour, and when this HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 325 has been well mixed in, let the six whites, previously whipped firm, be also lightly mixed in, together with the remainder of the flour, taking care to keep the batter as firin and as light as possible. Yon now fill a biscuit-forcer with some of the batter, and then proceed to gently force out the batter on to taking-sheets (previously buttered and foured for the purpose), in round or oval shapes, twice the size of a fiveshilling-piece; and when the whole of the batter is used up in this manner, let the chopped almonds be equally strewn over the biscuits, and after some sugar has been shaken over their surface with a dredger-box, they must be baked of a very light colour in a rather slack 'oven. These cakes are most appropriate for des- sert; but when made of the size of a fiveshilling-piece, by first spreading any kind of fruit or jam on the under part, and sticking two of them together, they may be neatly served up for a second-course dish, with some whipped cream in the centre. No. 768.—VENETIAN BISCUITS. First, prepare some Genoese, as directed at No. 757, which, when cold, must be carefully split in convenient- sized pieces, and after spreading the insides with apricot jam, let them be pressed together again; you next spread a thin coating of white icing on one square of Genoese, and then spread a similar coating of pink icing on the other square; after which each square must be cut into small oblong shapes of equal sizes; and the icing having become dry, may be dished up, either for a second-course dish or for dessert. No. 769.—SWEDES. Ingredients :—One pound of pounded sugar, twelve ounces of finely-shred almonds, four ounces of flour, a stick of vanilla (powdered and sifted), and one whole egg, and the white of another. Let the whole of the fore- named ingredients be well mixed together in a basin, 326 THE COOR & GUIDE, AND and then with a tablespoon proceed to mould the prepa- ration into round balls the size of a large walnut, whick: are to be placed on pieces of sheet-wafer previously cut to the size of halfcrown-pieces; these must now be placed on baking-sheets, and after slightly shaking some fine sugar over them, are to be baked of a light colour, in a slack oven. These cakes may also be finished in manner follow- ing:the preparation should be spread, about half an inch thick, upon sheet-wafer; and after being baked of a light colour, and immediately on being taken fronı the oven, should be cut into leaf-like shapes, and bent over a rolling-pin, till the pieces become cold and crisp. These cakes may be served either for dessert or a second-course dish ; in the latter case, some whipped cream must be placed in the centre of the dish. No. 770.—BROWN-BREAD BISCUITS. Ingredients :—One pound of pounded sugar, eight ounces of brown flour, six ounces of Jordan almonds, ground or pulverized, without being blanched or divested of their brown pellicule, six drops of the essence of bitter- almonds, and one dozen eggs. Break the eggs, placing the yolks in a basin and the whites in an egg-bowl: add the sugar, flour, almonds. and the flavouring to the yolks, and work these well together for twenty minutes with a wooden spoon; then mix in the whites previously whisked firm for the pur- pose, and with this batter proceed to fill as many small oblong or square paper-cases as you may require for the purpose, which after they have been sugared over, should be baked in a very moderate oven. These biscuits are adapted for dessert only. No. 771.—GINGER CAKES. Ingredients :—One pound of flour, twelve ounces of fresh butter, twelve ounces of pounded sugar, two ounces of ground Jamaica-ginger, eight yolks of eggs. 328 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND small shreds : some very small moulds must be slightly buttered, filled with some of the batter, some sugar sifted over them, and then baked of a very light colour in a very moderate oven. No. 774.—PEACH BISCUITS. Prepare some batter as directed for Fingers (No. 745), and with this proceed to form some round biscuits (using a biscuit-forcer for that purpose), on a baking-sheet or sheet of paper; if the former, it must be previously but- tered and floured. Shake some sugar over the biscuits, and bake them of a very light colour; and when they are done, and removed from the baking-sheet or paper, spread the under parts with some kind of preserved fruit (peach marmalade being most appropriate); stick two of these together, thus forming, as nearly as possible, the shape and size of a peach; these must now be very thinly covered all over with some white icing, which, when dry, must be very slightly brushed over with a soft pencil-brush, dipped in a very small quantity of carmine, thereby giving to the cake merely a tinge of colour similar to that displayed by the ripe peach. These cakes may be served up with whipped cream in the centre of the dish. No. 775.—APRICOT BISCUITS. These are prepared in all respects according to di- rections given in the preceding article, excepting that they should be made smaller, so that they may form a near resemblance to apricots in size and form, apricot jam being used to stick them together; and when so far prepared, are to be dipped in the following prepa- ration:- To one pound of fine loaf-sugar placed in a sugar- boiler, add half a pint of spring-water; boil these over a brisk stove-fire until the sugar, while boiling, throws up pearl-like bubbles, the degree of boiling required for HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 329 glazing being ascertained by taking a small quantity of the boiling sugar between the forefinger and thumb (previously dipped in cold water) : if the sugar when pressed with the fingers presents the appearance of strong glue, it should then be removed from the fire ; and ten minutes afterwards, whatever flavouring is intended to be used, such as liqueurs, strong vanilla, orange or lemon syrups, or infusions, must be in a liquid state, and must be gradually mixed in with the boiled sugar, quickly stirring and working the sugar in the pan the while; when thoroughly mixed, the cakes should be dipped in, and being afterwards placed on a wire-drainer, put in the hot closet for a few minutes to set. The yellow tinge required for the glacés in this case, may be given by using either some orange-suga or a small decoction of saffron : the latter is objection able, on account of its flavour. No. 776.—CHOCOLATE GLACE. The foundation of these may be made either of pound- cake, Genoese, or Savoy cake; the batter for making either of the foregoing may be first baked in a baking- sheet, and afterwards cut out in shapes and sizes to suit taste or convenience; or otherwise may be baked in ap- propriate moulds or cases for the purpose; they must then be dipped in the following preparation :- first boil the sugar as directed in the foregoing article, and when it has reached its proper degree, add six ounces of chocolate dissolved with a wineglassful of water; work the whole well together, and use it while hot; but if it should become cold, and set before the operation is ter- minated, the preparation may be easily liquified by stir- ring it over the fire. Cakes, both large and small, may be glacés or glazed in this manner in almost infinite variety, by using any kind of liqueur, or a very strong infusion of tea or coffee, instead of the chocolate here recommended. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 331 have been withdrawn from the oven a sufficient time to have become cold, break them up, as marked out, and put them away in a tin box in a dry place. These cakes are well adapted for dessert or luncheon, and are a pleasant adjunct for the supper-tray. No. 778.—SICILIAN BISCUITS. Ingredients :—Four eggs, twelve ounces of pounded sugar, ten ounces of flour, a stick of vanilla—pounded. Whisk the eggs, the sugar, and the vanilla together in a copper egg-bowl, over a very slow stove-fire, until the batter begins to feel warm ; it must then be removed off the fire, and whisked briskly until the batter be- comes cold; the flour must now be lightly added in, and when thoroughly mixed, must be shaped upon pre- pared baking-sheets with the aid of a biscuit-forcer in fingers, ovals, or rounds, sugared over similarly to Naples biscuits, and baked in a slack oven. No. 779.—RUSSIAN BISCUITS. Ingredients :—Eight ounces of pounded sugar, ten eggs, six ounces of flour, four ounces of almonds pounded and dried over the fire in a sugar-boiler, a quarter of an ounce of aniseed :- Let the yolks of the eggs and the sugar be whisked together in an egg-bowl over a slow fire until they pre- sent the appearance of a thick batter; the whites pre- viously whisked firm, must now be lightly added, as also the flour, pounded almonds, and aniseed. The batter thus produced may either be baked in small moulds, or, as is most appropriate for these bis cuits, they should be baked in long tin moulds, or, fail. ing these, in stout paper-cases, ten inches long by three inches deep, and two and a half inches wide. When the last-named are baked, and have been allowed to become thoroughly cold, cut them into rather thin slices, which being placed on baking-sheets, should be again baked of a very light colour on both sides. 332 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 780.—ALBERT BISCUITS. Ingredients:—Ten ounces of pounded sugar, eight ounces of finely-chopped almonds, six ounces of flour, twelve yolks and fourteen whites of eggs, two ounces of candied orange-peel shred fine, a teaspoonful of cinnamon powder, half that quantity of ground cloves, and a little grated lemon-rind. Work the sugar and the almonds with the yolks and two whites of eggs for twenty minutes, then incorporate the remaining twelve whites, firmly whisked together, with the flour, candied-peel, and spices; next, pour the batter into a convenient-sized paper-case, and bake it in a moderate oven; and when done and sufficiently cold, let it be cut up into thin slices for dishing up. This preparation may also be baked in small moulds, or forced out upon paper or baking-sheets, previously buttered and floured for the purpose. No. 781.- VICTORIA BISCUITS. Ingredients :—One pound of pounded sugar, twelve ounces of dried flour, six ounces of pounded or ground bitter-almonds, six ounces of fresh butter, a wineglassful of Kirschen-wasser, and the rind of two lemons grated. First, let the butter be worked up in a basin with a wooden spoon until it assumes a creamy appearance ; then add the remainder of the ingredients, finishing with the Kirschen-wasser; and when the batter is ready, pour it into small moulds ready buttered, and interiorly coated with potato-flour. When these cakes or biscuits are baked of a very light colour, first spread the surface with orange-marmalade, and over this glaze thein ac- cording to directions given for finishing Apricot Biscuits GOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER 8 ASSISTANT. 333 CHAPTER XX. No. 782.—CHEESECAKES. Ingredients required :—Eight ounces of pressed curd, two ounces of ratafias, six ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, six yolks of eggs, some grated nutmeg, a little salt, the rind of two oranges or lemons, rubbed on sugar afterwards scraped off. Press the curd in a napkin to absorb the superfluous moisture, then pound it thoroughly in a mortar, and mix in the above-named ingredients; when the whole is in- corporated together into a kind of soft paste, take this up in a basin; next, line two dozen or more tartlet-pans with some well-worked trimmings of puff-paste; garnish these with the cheese-custard ; place a strip of candied- peel on the top of each ; put them on a baking-sheet, and then set them in the oven (at moderate heat), to be baked of a very light-brown colour; when done, shake a very little sifted sugar over them, and serve them quite hot. Currants, dried cherries, sultanas, or citron may be used instead of the candied-peel. No. 783.—MIRLITONS. Ingredients required:—Puff-paste trimmings, three whole eggs, three ounces of sugar, one ounce of ratafias, half an ounce of candied orange-flowers, one ounce of butter and a little salt. Put the above into a basin having a spout. The rata- fias and orange-flowers must be bruised, and the butter . 334 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND merely melted. Work the whole well together with a wooden spoon until the batter presents the appearance of a rich creainy-looking substance; it must then be instantly poured into two dozen small deep tartlets lined with puff-paste trimmings; shake a rather thick coating of sifted sugar over the mirlitons, and when it has nearly inelted on their surface, put them in the oven (at very moderate heat), and bake them of a light-fawn colour. When the mirlitons are done, the centre should rise out from the tartlet to the height of about half an inch, re- sembling the crown of a boy's cap. These cakes may also be flavoured with chocolate grated previously to its being added to the preparation, or with pistachios or almonds; both of these must be pounded first. They may also be flavoured with different essences. Previously to pouring the batter into the tartlets, a spoonful of apricot or pine-apple jam may be placed in them. No. 784.—D'ARTOIS CAKE. Puff-paste or large D'Artois cakes, prepared as directed in the foregoing cases, may be garnished either with apple marmalade, mince-meat, or any kind of preserve. In this case, however, when the cake has been covered in with the puff-paste, previously to marking out the design on its surface, it must be egged over with a paste-brush; when it has been baked of a bright-yellow colour, shake some finely-sifted sugar over it; after which put it back again in the oven for a minute or two, and then pass the red-hot salamander over it to give it a bright glossy appearance. The same direction applies to the smaller D'Artois cakes. No. 785.—GERMAN TOURTE OF APRICOTS. Cut a dozen ripe apricots into quarters, and put them into a small sugar-boiler or stewpan, with the kernels extracted from the stones, four ounces of pounded sugar. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 335 and a spoonful of water; stir this over the stove-fire until the fruit has dissolved into a jam, and then with- draw the stewpan from the fire. Roll out some trimmings of puff-paste, or else about half a pound of short-paste, to the diameter of about eight inches; place this on a circular baking-sheet, and with the forefinger and thumb of the right hand, twist the paste round the edges, so as to raise it in imitation of cording; then cut up a dozen ripe apricots into quarters, and place these in close circular rows on the paste, shake some sifted sugar (mixed with some rind of lemon) over the apricots, and then bake the tourte (at moderate heat). When it is done, pour the marmalade of apricots over the others; shake some sifted sugar mixed with a teaspoonful of cinnamon-powder over the surface; dish the tourte on a napkin, and serve it either hot or cold. This kind of tourte may be made of every kind of fruit, following in each case the directions for the preparation of German tourte of apricots, not forgetting the cinnamon-sugar. No. 786.—PARISIAN TURNOVER OF APPLES. Peel about a dozen apples; cut them in quarters, and take out the cores ; after which, put them into a stew- pan with eight ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, the rind of a lemon rubbed on a piece of sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of water; toss the apples over a slow fire until they are about half done, and then remove them from the fire. While the apples are being prepared, roll out a piece of short-paste, in a circular form, the eighth part of an inch thick, and about the size of a dinner- plate; wet this round the edge; then fasten a rolled cord of paste, the thickness of a small finger, within an inch of the edge, and pile the prepared apples up in the centre in the form of a dome. Next spread some apricot-mar- malade over the surface, and cover the whole in with a circular piece of puff-paste; press them together round the edges, wet the extremities, then with the forefinger UOUSEKEEPEK'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 337 No. 788.—CONDE CAKES Chop six ounces of Jordan almonds as fine as possible; mix them with four ounces of sifted sugar, some grated rind of lemon, and the white of an egg: the whole should present the appearance of a rather firm paste. Next, make half a pound of puff-paste, to which give eight turns or foldings, and roll this out to the thickness of the eighth part of an inch; then with a tin cutter, of an oval, circular, crescent, diamond, or any other fancy shape, stamp out about eighteen Condés, and place them on a baking-sheet, previously wetted over with a paste- brush to receive them. Spread a coating of the prepared chopped almonds on the surface of each; shake some fine sugar over them with the dredger, and bake them of a very light-fawn colour. No. 789.—D'ARTOIS OF APRICOT. Make one pound of puff-paste, and give it seven turns or foldings; then, take one-third of it, and after knead- ing this well together, roll it out to the size of a square baking-sheet measuring about fourteen inches by twelve, and lay the paste upon it; next spread a rather thick layer of apricot jam over the paste to within about an inch of the edges; then, roll out the remainder of the puff-paste to the size of the baking-sheet, and place it neatly over the surface of the apricot; fasten it round by pressing upon the edges with the thumb, and trim the edges by cutting away the superfluous paste from the sides with a knife. The D'Artois must now be marked out in small oblong shapes with the back part of a knife; and after the whole surface has been egged over, score them very neatly, forming a kind of feather-pattern on each cake. Bake them of a bright, light-brown colour; and when they are done, shake some finely-sifted sugar over them out of the dredger; put them back again in the oven for a minute or two, to melt the sugar, and then pass the red-hot 338 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND salamander over them to give to the pastry a blight glossy appearance. When the D'Artois have become sufficiently cold, cut them up, and serve them, dished up in several circular rows piled on a napkin. Note.—This kind of pastry may also be garnished with Pethiviers cream, pastry custard, apple marmalade, or any other kind of preserve. No. 790.—PASTRY CUSTARD OR CREAM. Ingredients :—Four ounces of flour, four ounces of sugar, six yolks of eggs, two ounces of butter, one pint of cream or milk, one ounce of ratafias, a spoonful of orange-flower water, and a very little salt. Mix the flour, sugar, and salt, with two whole eggs, in a stewpan with a wooden spoon; then add the cream and the butter, and stir the whole over the stove-fire until it boils : it must then be well worked together, so as to make it smooth. Withdraw the spoon, and after putting the lid on the stewpan, place the cream in the oven, or on a slow stove-fire partially smothered in ashes, that it may continue to simmer gently for about twenty minutes; the cream must then be put out into a basin, and the bruised ratafias, the yolks of eggs, and the orange-flower water must be added; after this put four ounces of butter into a small stewpan on the fire, and as soon as it begins to fritter, and has acquired a light-brown colour (which gives to it the sweet flavour of nuts), add it also to the cream and let the whole be well mixed. Use this cream to garnish various kinds of pastry according to directions given in the several arti- cles for which it is intended. No. 791.—TALMOUSES. Ingredients required :—Half a pint of milk, four ounces of flour, two ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, six ounces of cream-curd, the rind of an orange rubbed on sugar, a very little salt, and half a pound of puff-pasta HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 339 Put the milk, butter, sugar, and salt into a stewpan on a stove-fire, and as soon as they begin to simmer, fill in the flour by stirring the whole with a wooden spoon for two or three minutes over the fire ; then add the curd (from which all the superfluous moisture must be ex- tracted, by pressing it with a napkin), and work in the eggs one after the other, remembering that this paste must be kept to about the same substance as for Petits- choux. Make half a pound of puff-paste, and give it nine turns; roll this out to the eighth of an inch in thickness; stamp out about two dozen circular pieces with a tin cutter about two inches in diameter, and place them in neat order on a baking-sheet, about an inch apart from each other; then place a good teaspoonful of the prepa- ration described above, in the centre of each; wet them round the edges, and then turn up the sides so as to form each of them in the shape of a three-cornered hat; egg them over with a paste-brush; bake them of a light-brown colour; and when they are withdrawn from the oven, shake some fine sugar over them. These cakes may be served either hot or cold. No. 792.—WALNUTS. Give seven turns to half a pound of puff-paste, and roll it out to the thickness of the sixth of an inch; then stamp out twenty circular pieces with a fluted cutter, about an inch and a half in diameter, and after wetting each of them with a paste-brush dipped in water, fold them up, at the same time pressing the two parts of the paste slightly, so as to cause them to adhere closely to- gether. They must then be placed on a baking-sheet in rows, egged over, and baked of a bright-light colour; just before they are done, some fine sugar should be shaken over with a dredger, and they must then be put back again in the oven for a little while to melt the sugar ; pass the red-hot salamander over, and withdraw 2 2 340 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND them. Previously to serving this kind of pastry, a broad strip of red-currant, or apple jelly, should be placed across the centre. No. 793.—BREAD-AND-BUTTER PASTRY. Give six turns to half a pound of puff-paste, and roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch; cut this into bands about three inches wide; then cut these again into strips rather better than a quarter of an inch wide, and place them (on the cut side) on a baking-sheet in rows about two inches apart, so as to allow them suffi- cient room to spread out. Bake these strips of paste in a rather sharp oven; and just before they are done, glaze them that is, shake some fine sugar over, and then salamander them. About two dozen of these are required for a dish; they must be spread with some kind of pre- serve, and stuck together in pairs, to imitate bread-and- butter. Dish them up on a napkin, piled up in several circular rows, in a pyramid. This kind of pastry may also be dished up with some stiffly-whipped cream, seasoned with a glass of liqueur in the centre. No. 794.—RINGS OR WREATHS. Give eight turns to half a pound of puff-paste, and roll this out to the sixth part of an inch in thickness; then stamp out twenty circular pieces with a fluted tin cutter, about one inch and three-quarters in diameter, and stamp out the centre of these with a plain circular cutter, about three-quarters of an inch in diameter; next place the rings on a wet baking-sheet; shake some fine sugar over them, and bake them of a very light colour (at very moderate heat). When they are done, decorate them with some whipped white of egg and sugar, over which strew some coarse sugar; put them to dry in a screen; and then finish decorating them, by placing or inserting some strips of currant or apple jelly between the folds or dots of the decoration. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLEK ASSISTANT. 341 Note.—Puff-paste turned or folded eight times, then rolled out to the thickness of the sixth part of an inch, and stamped out with appropriate fancy-shaped tin cutters—either in the form of crescents, leaves, trefoil, or shamrock, stars, &c., and after being baked as directed in the foregoing case, may also be decorated in the same manner: a cornet of paper should be used for this purpose. No. 795.—POLISH CAKES. Give seven turns to half a pound of puff paste, roll it out as in the foregoing cases, and then cut it up into square pieces measuring rather better than two inches each way; wet these in the centre, and then fold down the corners, so as to make them all meet in the middle of the piece of paste ; place a dot of paste in the centre of each, pressing it down with the end of the finger; egg them over, and bake them in a rather sharp oven, of a fine, bright, light colour; and just before they are done, shake some finely-sifted sugar over them; put them back again in the oven to melt the sugar, and then pass the red-hot salamander over them to give them a glossy ap- pearance. Decorate this kind of pastry with red-currant or apple jelly. No. 796.—PLAITS. Give nine turns to half a pound of puff-paste, roll it out to the thickness of the eighth of an inch, and then cut this into bands about five inches in width, and divide these into narrow strips a quarter of an inch wide. Take four of these strips, and after fastening them together at one end, with a little egg or water, plait them neatly but rather loosely together, and when finished, fasten the ends. As each plait is completed, place it on a baking-sheet, and when they are all ready, egg them over and bake them of a light colour; and when done, let them be glazed as usual; just before sending these cakes to table, decorate them by placing in the small cavities some dots of bright currant or apple jelly, and some greengage jam. 342 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 797.—APPLE TARTLETS. Make half a pound of tart-paste (No. 953), roll it out rather thin, then stamp out twenty circular flats, with a fluted cutter suited to the size of the tartlets, and use them to line the moulds; fill each tartlet with a spoon- ful of apple marmalade; cover them in with a mosaic* of paste, egg them over, place them on a baking-sheet, and bake them of a light colour ; when done, shake some fine sugar over them, and use the red-hot sala- mander to give them a glossy appearance. No. 7974.-APPLES A LA PORTUGUAISE 030 Soon APPLES MERINGUES A LA TORTUGU AISE. Prepare some apple marmalade with about a dozen apples. Split also a dozen apples into halves; peel them, and remove the cores; and then place them in a deep sautapan thickly spread with butter ; shake some sugar * Mosaic-boards for tartlets may be had, of all sizes and patterns, at any turner's shop. To cut out impressions from these it is necessary to use small circular flats of raised pie-paste, which must be placed on the board, and pressed into the design, by rolling it with a paste-pin; the superfluous paste must then be cut or shared away, and the mosaic of paste that remains in the design shaken out of the board. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 343 and grated lemon-peel over them, and bake them in the oven. Prepare next a small quantity of pastry-custard (No. 790), also an ornamented case (No. 519), which should be partially baked. When the foregoing articles are ready, nearly fill the case with the marmalade of apples, leaving an opening or well in the centre; then pile the pieces of apples upon the marmalade in the form of a dome, leaving the centre hollow ; fill this with the pastry-custard, and cover the whole with some orange-marmalade. Next, whip four whites of eggs quite firm; mix in four ounces of sifted sugar, and use this meringue-paste to finish the apples, according to the design placed at the head of this article: this is done by first masking over the entire surface of the dome formed by the apples with a smooth coating of the prepared whites of eggs, and then with a paper- cornet, filled with some of the same, marking out the design. When this has been effected, shake some sifted sugar upon it, and bake the meringue of a very light- fawn colour. Just before sending this entremêt to table, finish ornamenting it by filling up the inner part of the cross with alternate stripes or layers of red currant and apple jellies, and also with greengage or apricot jam : these must be arranged so as to show their colours distinctly, which will produce a very pretty effect. This entremêt should be served hot. No. 797b.—APPLE CHARLOTTE. First, line the bottom of a plain round Charlotte mould (see Adams' Illustrations) with small thin circu- lar shapes of bread stamped out with a tin cutter the size of a halfcrown-piece; dip these in clarified butter, and let them be placed in circular order—overlaying each other until the bottom is covered,—at the same time placing one of these pieces in the centre to com- pletely cover the bottom of the mould. Next, line the sides of the mould with thin oblong pieces of bread cut an inch wide, the sixteenth of an inch thick, and of 344 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND sufficient length for the depth of the mould; these must also be dipped in the butter before they are placed in the mould in the manner represented in the annexed APPLE CHARLTTE. woodcut. The Charlotte is now to be filled with well. reduced apple marmalade made as follows: viz.,—peel, core and slice up eighteen apples; put them in a stewpan with half a pint of water, two ounces of butter and a piece of cinnamon and lemon-peel tied together; set the lid on, and place the stewpan to boil over a brisk fire until the apples are dissolved ; then add twelve ounces of sugar, and stir the marmalade on the fire until reduced to a thick substance, bearing in mind that it must be stirred constantly while on the fire to prevent its becoming burnt. Then, the Charlotte being filled with the marmalade, cover in the top with a thin round piece of bread made to fit the inner circle of the fingers of bread : place it on a baking-sheet, and set it in a rather brisk oven to be baked of a light colour; and when turned out on its dish, pour some diluted apricot jam round the base, and serve. No. 798.—APPLE TARTLETS, ANOTHER METHOD. Line the tartlet-pans as above; then garnish them with halves of small apples, previously turned and HOUSEKEEPER'S ANL BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 345 divested of the cores, and afterwards parboiled in a little syrup in which the piece of a lemon has been squeezed. Bake the tartlets, and when they are done, dilute some apricot jam with a little of the syrup; use this to mask the apples in the tartlets; and then place a preserved cherry on the centre of each. No. 799.- CHERRY TARTLETS. Stone two pounds of Kentish cherries ; put them into a small sugar-boiler with three-quarters of a pound of pounded sugar ; toss them in this, then set them on the stove-fire, and allow them to boil about five minutes : the cherries must then be strained on a sieve, and the syrup reduced to about one-third part of its quantity, then added to the cherries, and kept in a small basin. Line two dozen small tartlet pans with short-paste or tart-paste (the flats being stamped out with a fluted cutter); knead as many small pieces of paste as there are tartlets, and after dipping them in flour, press one of them into each of the tartlets; place them on a baking-sheet, and put them in the oven (moderately heated) to be baked of a light colour. When they are nearly done, withdraw them, and take out the pieces of paste; shake some fine sugar over them, and then glaze them with the red-hot salamander. Just before serving the tartlets, fill them with the cherries. Note.- Raspberries, currants, gooseberries, and all kinds of plums may be prepared for tartlets by gently boiling them for a few minutes in about a pint of syrup; the fruit should then be drained on a sieve, and the syrup reduced to one-third of its original quantity, and kept with the fruit in a small basin to fill the tartlets with, as in the foregoing case. No. 800.—TARTLETS OF PUFF-PASTE. Give eight turns to half a pound of puff-paste (No. 323); roll it out to the thickness of the sixth part of an inch, and then with a circular tin cutter about one inch 346 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND and three-quarters in diameter, stamp out twenty flats; again use a small cutter measuring one inch in dia- meter, to stamp out the centre of these ; next gather up the trimmings, knead them together and roll them out to the eighth part of an inch in thickness, and stamp out as many flats as there are rings; place them on a wetted baking-sheet, moisten the edges with a soft brush dipped in water; stick the rings of paste on these ; shake some sugar over them with the dredger, and bake them of a very light colour (at very moderate heat.) When the tartlets are done, mask the bands or rings with a little meringue-paste; dip them either in some chopped or very finely-shred pistachios or almonds, and place them in the screen to dry : previously to serving these tartlets, they may be filled either with cherries, currants, plums, &c., prepared as directed above, or else with any kind of preserve. No. 801.—MOSAIC TARTLETS. Prepare two dozen puff-paste tartlets as directed above, and fill each of them with a spoonful of apricot or greengage jam ; wet round the edges, and place a mosaic of paste on the top of each ; egg these over slightly, and bake them of a light colour; when they are done, shake some fine sugar over them, and glaze them with the red-hot salamander. No. 802.—PARISIAN LOAVES. Prepare some small slender finger-biscuits ; spread them with apricot or greengage jam, and stick two of them together; then hold one at a time on a fork; mask them over slightly with some meringue-paste, and with a paper-cornet filled with some of the same, draw parallel lines across the cakes in a slanting direction; when they are all completed, shake some sugar over them, and put them in the oven to be baked, or rather dried of a very light-fawn colour. When done, insert some very narrow strips of currant jelly, greengage jam, and apple jelly, between the bars of the decoration. HOUSEKEEPER’AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 347 No. 803.—APPLE TART WITH QUINCE. Peel the apples, remove the cores, out them in slices or quarters, and arrange them neatly in the pie-dish ; then add the quince, which must be sliced thin and stewed with a little water, sugar, and a bit of butter, in a small stewpan over a slow fire; add sugar enough to sweeten the quantity of apples required for the tart, and some grated lemon-peel; cover the tart with puff- paste, first placing a band of paste upon the wetted edge of the dish, and then, after wetting the band, place the cover upon its place, and having pressed it down all round, cut the edge evenly all round, scollop it with the back of a knife ; decorate the top with leaves of paste; egg it over and bake it; and when done, dredge it over with sugar, and salamander it. No. 804.—PEAR TART. If mellow pears be used for the purpose, the fore- going instructions may be followed; but if stewing pears are made use of, they must first be stewed with a little water, sugar, and a few cloves and lemon-peel. When the pears are cold, put them in the dish ; use tart- paste to cover it, and half bake it; sprinkle it over with water and white of egg whisked together; shake sifted sugar over the surface, and put it back in the oven to finish baking of a light colour. No. 805.—FRUIT TARTS IN GENERAL. When the larger kinds of stone fruits are used for making tarts, such as peaches, apricots, &c., the stones must be taken out and cracked, and the kernels placed upon the top of the fruit in the dish. Add a spoonful of water, and sugar enough to sweeten; cover with tart- paste, and finish as in the preceding case. For making cherry or damson tarts, follow the same directions, except that the stones should not be re- moved. Gooseberries, currants, raspberries, and mulberries, may be treated in the same way. 348 THE COOK'S GUIDE. AND 948 CHAPTER XXI. FRITTERS. No. 806.—APPLE FRITTERS. Cut the apples in thick slices; scoop out the cores with a tin cutter; then pare off the rind, and place the pieces of apple in a basin; add a liqueur glass of brandy, a spoonful of sugar, and grated lemon-peel; and let them steep in this for an hour; next, dip each piece of apple in some light frying batter (No. 288), and drop them gently into some hot frying fat; turn them over in this lightly with a fork, and when fried crisp, and of a light colour, drain and dish them up on a napkin; dredge some sifted sugar over them, and serve. Pear fritters are made in the same manner. No. 807.—PINE-APPLE FRITTERS. Peel the pine apple; cut it in thick slices; divide these into fingers; steep them with a little maraschino for an hour; and use frying batter (No. 289). Finish fritters as in No. 806. No. 808.—ORANGE FRITTERS. Cut the oranges in halves; use a sharp knife to re- move the peel and the pith, and pick out the pips; steep the pieces of oranges in a liqueur glass of brandy and a spoonful of sugar for an hour ; and when about to HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER 8 ASSISTANT. 349 fry them, let them first be drained on a sieve, dipped sepa- rately in the batter (No. 288), and fried in the usual way. No. 809.—PEACH FRITTERS. Cut the peaches in quarters; remove the skins; steep the pieces in a glass of noyeau and a little sugar for an hour; then drain them; dip each piece in German frying batter, No 289; fry the fritters of a light colour, and crisp; and having drained them, let them be placed in order on a baking-sheet, dredged over with sifted sugar, salamandered and dished up without a napkin, and with some custard-whip, No. 99, poured round them. All kinds of stone fruit are to be treated in the same manner. No. 810.—CINTRA FRITTERS. These are prepared from remains of Brioche, Baba, Compiègne, or any other cake; whichever is used for the purpose should be first cut in slices a quarter of an inch thick, and stamped out with a round tin cutter the size of a crown-piece, placed flat in a dish, and soaked with the following mixture: a gill of cream, an ounce of sugar, a tablespoonful of orange flower-water. Pre- viously to frying these fritters, let them be dredged over with flour, when fried of a light colour; dish them up without a napkin, and pour some diluted preserve of any kind most convenient round the base. No. 811.—SPANISH PUFFS. Make some paste as shown in No. 761, and with the fingers or with a teaspoon lay this out in the form of round balls, the size of small walnuts, on sheets of buttered paper; these being held at one end, must be immersed in hot frying fat to be gently shaken off. As they are frying, they are to be carefully moved about with a draining spoon, until they are done of a light colour, and have increased four times their original size; they must then be drained on a wire sieve, dished up on a napkin, some sugar dredged over them, and served inimediately. 350 THE COOK 8 GUIDE, AND No. 812.—CUSTARD FRITTERS. Boil a pint of milk with cinnamon and lemon, add four ounces of sugar, one ounce of four, a grain of salt, and six eggs; beat all together, and steam this custard in a plain mould previously spread inside with butter; and when done firm, and quite cold, let it be carefully cut into square pieces, dipped in frying batter in which there has been mixed a little cream, and dropped se- parately in hot frying fat; when they have attained a light colour all over, drain and dish them up with some kind of preserve round the base. No. 813.—PORTUGUESE FRITTERS. Put six ounces of rice into a pint of milk, four ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, cinnamon, and lemon-peel; boil this very gently over a slow fire for about three- quarters of an hour, by which time the rice will have entirely absorbed all moisture. Mix in three yolks of eggs, and then make up this preparation of rice into balls the size of large walnuts—introducing in the centre of each a teaspoonful of orange-marmalade; egg and crumb them over carefully, and as you do so, place them in a wire frying basket, and immerse them in hot frying fat. As soon as they have attained a light colour. drain and dish them up on a napkin; sugar them over, and serve. No. 814.—PUDDING FRITTERS. These are prepared with remains of any kind of custard puddings—such as cabinet, ground rice, arrowroot, &c., or even plum pudding. The pudding intended to be used for the purpose should be cut in neat squares, egged over and bread-crumbed, and being fried of a light colour, may be dished either with or without preserve. HOUSEKELPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 351 No. 815.—GERMAN FRITTERS. As a matter of economy and convenience, it is cus- tomary to serve these fritters only when you have had occasion to prepare brioche-paste for other purposes; in which case, about twelve ounces of the paste should be kept in reserve, and used as follows :—Roll out the paste to the thickness of a penny-piece; moisten this slightly with a paste-brush dipped in water; place small balls of preserve upon this, at distances of two inches from each other; cover over with some of the same paste rolled out thin, similarly to the first piece ; with the edge of the thumb press down all round each lump of preserve; stamp these out with a round tin cutter, and as you do so, place them in rows on sheets of buttered paper upon a baking-sheet, and fry them in hot frying fat, of a light colour ; when done, dish them on a napkin; dredge them over with cinnamon pounded with sugar, and serve. 352 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND CHAPTER XXII. SOUFFLES AND OMELETS. No. 816.—POTATO FLOUR SOUFFLE. Put six ounces of potato-flour into a stewpan with ten ounces of pounded sugar, four ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, the rind of a lemon, or an orange rubbed on sugar, and a pint of milk or creain; mix, and stir this over the fire until it boils, taking care to stir it briskly so as to keep the butter smooth: then add six yolks of eggs, and the whites of eight or ten whisked into a firm substantial froth. Mix lightly together, and with this fill a soufflé-dish lining, round wh ch has been secured a high band of buttered paper, to p event the batter from falling over the sides as it rises in the oven; place the soufflé on a baking-sheet in an oven of moderate heat, taking care to move it round occasionally so that it may receive the heat equally on all sides. Three-quarters of an hour will suffice to bake a soufflé of this size; and if these directions are attended to, it should make its appearance on the dinner- table as high again as the soufié-dish. For a pattern of this dish, see Angell's Illustrations. Note.—Soufflés of arrowroot, tapioca, sago, ground rice, and all other kinds of farinaceous substances, are also capable of being made into souffés, by following the foregoing instructions. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 359 No. 817.—SOUFFLE OF RICE. .Wash four ounces of rice, and boil it in water for five minutes; then put it in a stewpan with a pint of milk, six ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, a little salt, and any kind of flavouring, such as lemon, orange, vanilla, sherry, or any kind of liqueur or orange-flower water. A very small quantity of any one of these will suffice for the purpose. Put the lid on the stewpan, set the rice to simmer very slowly over a slackened fire after it has boiled, and in about an hour's time, it will have absorbed all the milk, and have become quite soft. Six yolks, and nine whites of eggs whipped firm, must then be lightly mixed in with the rice, and baked in a soufflé-dish, as directed in the preceding case. Failing the soufflé-dish, a thin earthenware basin, or deep pie- dish, may be substituted for baking the soufflé in. No. 818.—COFFEE SOUFFLE. To six ounces of flour add ten ounces of sugar, a little salt, two ounces of butter, half a pint of strong coffee, and half a pint of cream ; stir together briskly over the fire until it boils; and then work in six yolks of eggs, and mix in lightly the whisked whites of nine eggs : bake the soufflé as directed in No. 816. i Note.—Chocolate souffles are made as above, ub- stituting four ounces of grated chocolate for the half pint of coffee, and adding half a pint of milk. No. 819. — FRUIT SOUFFLE. Remove the stones from a dozen ripe apricots, and put the apricots in a stewpan with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water ; boil this over the fire—stirring the while with a wooden spoon until the fruit is dissolved, and then rub it through a tammy or sieve: use this to mix with four ounces of flour and two ounces of butter, and half a pint of cream, and having stirred the 2 A HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 355 CHAPTER XXIII. DIFFERENT KINDS OF PUDDINGS. No. 822.—BROWN-BREAD PUDDING. Get ready the following ingredients: three-quarters of a pound of dry brown bread crumbs, six ounces of pounded sugar, half a pint of whipped cream, some grated lemon- peel, pounded cinnamon, one pound of morel cherries, and eight eggs. Mix these ingredients together in a basin; remembering that the whites of eggs must be whipped firm. Next, grease smoothly the inside of a plain round mould, strew some brown bread-crumbs therein, fill the mould with alternate layers of the pre- paration and morel cherries, bake the pudding on a baking-sheet, in a moderate heat, and when done, turn it out on its dish, shake some cinnamon-sugar over it, pour some cherry-sauce round it, and serve. Note. This kind of pudding furnishes an excellent cold sweet. No. 823.--SEMOLINA PUDDING. Put half a pound of semolina in a stewpan with six ounces of sugar, four ounces of butter, a grain of salt, a pint of milk, a tablespoonful of orange-flower water, and a few ratifias ; stir this over the fire until it thickens, and keep stirring on the fire until it ceases to adhere to the sides of the stewpan; it must then be removed from the fire, and after having vigorously worked in six whole eggs, spread the inside of a plain 2 A 2 356 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND mould with butter; fill the mould with the preparation, and steam the pudding in the usual way, by placing it upon a plate turned upside-down in a stewpan, and surrounded with about three inches of boiling water ; the lid must be put close and the water kept on the gentle boil, so as to produce a continuous supply of steam with which to cook the pudding through; this will require about an hour; and when done, turn the pudding out on its dish; pour some custard-whip, No. 93, or some fruit-sauce, No. 96, over it, and serve. Note.—All kinds of farinaceous substances treated in this manner make excellent puddings. No. 824.—VICTORIA PUDDING. Put the following ingredients into a basin :—eight ounces of roughly-chopped marrow, six ounces of flour, four ounces of apricot jam, four ounces of chopped apples, four ounces of bread crumbs, and of dried cherries and shred candied-peel,—weighing altogether six ounces; four ounces of sugar, a teaspoonful of powdered cinna- mon, cloves, and nutmeg, a pinch of salt, half a pint of cream, a glass of brandy, and five whole eggs: mix well together; fill a buttered mould with this, tie it up in a cloth in the usual way, and boil the pudding for an hour and a half; when done, turn it, dish, and serve with whip sauce, No. 98. No. 824.—GERMAN PUDDING. Prepare twelve ounces of brioche cut up in small dice, or the equivalent of crumb of bread or any other cake cut in the same way; add the grated rind of a lemon, two ounces of sweet-almonds, and eight bitter-almonds pounded, six ounces of sultana raisins, a burnt-sugar cus- tard in which there have afterwards been mixed six eggs, whipped raw, six ounces of sugar, and a glass of madeira Mix altogether, and with this preparation fill a buttered mould; steam the pudding in the usual way, and when turned out on its dish, serve with whip No. 93. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER S ASSISTANT. 857 No. 825.—CABINET PUDDING. Spread the inside of a mould with butter, and orna- ment the bottom and the sides with dried cherries, or raisins and candied--peel; fill the mould with alternate slices of sponge-cakes, and ratifias, or macaroons; then fill up the mould with a cold custard made with seven eggs and a pint of milk boiled with six ounces of sugar, a glass of brandy, and the grated rind of a lemon; all well mixed together; steam the pudding for an hour and a quarter, and when done, serve with arrowroot or whip sauce. No. 826.—CHESTNUT PUDDING. Put twelve ounces of chestnut farina (Crosse and Blackwell's) into a stewpan, add six ounces of pounded sugar, a spoonful of vanilla sugar, a pinch of salt, four ounces of butter, and a pint of milk; stir this over the fire until it thickens, and then quicken the motion of the spoon until the paste leaves the sides of the stewpan; it must then be removed from the fire, and the yolks of six eggs incorporated therewith ; then mix in gently the six whites whipped firm, and use this preparation to fill a plain mould spread inside with butter; place it on a baking-sheet, and bake it in an oven of moderate heat for about an hour; when done, turn it out on its dish, pour some diluted apricot jam round it, and serve. No. 827.—GINGER PUDDING. Put a pint of milk in a stewpan with six ounces of sugar and six ounces of butter, and set this on the fire to boil; as soon as the milk rises, withdraw it, and throw in half a pound of flour, stir this quickly with a wooden spoon to mix it well, and then stir the paste over the fire for a few minutes, until it ceases to adhere to the sides of the stewpan; it must then be withdrawn from the fire, and the yolks of six eggs, and four ounces of chopped preserved ginger well mixed in with it; after 358 TIIE COOK'S GUIDE, AND which gently incorporate the six whites whipped firm; fill a mould spread with butter with this ; steam the pud- ding in the usual way for an hour and a quarter, and serve with whip sauce, No. 99, in which there has been mixed the syrup from the ginger. No. 828.—PINE-APPLE PUDDING. To prepare this pudding, it is necessary to follow the directions given in the preceding number, substituting pine apple for ginger. No. 829.—LEMON PUDDING. Put the strained juice of six lemons, and the rind of three rubbed on lumps of sugar, into a basin with six ounces of bruised ratifias, and six ounces of sugar, a pint of cream, ten yolks of eggs, and six whites whipped ; add a pinch of salt, and a little grated nutmeg; work these ingredients together for five minutes with a whisk, and then pour the mixture into a pie-dish already fur- nished with a thin border of puff-paste round the rim of the dish, and reaching half way down to the bottom. Shake some braised ratifias over the surface; set the pudding on a baking-tin, and push it in the oven to bake for about half an hour, of a very light-fawn colour. No. 830.—ORANGE PUDDING. This is made in the same way as the foregoing; ten oranges may be used for the purpose, and the rind of three to flavour the pudding. No. 831.—PLAIN BREAD-PUDDING. Put twelve ounces of bread-crumbs into a basin with six ounces of sugar, a pinch of salt, and the grated rind of a lemon; pour a pint of boiling milk upon this, cover it with a plate, and allow it to soak for a quarter of an hour; next, add four whole eggs; mix well together, HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 359 and use this preparation to fill a buttered mould or basin, and steam the pudding as usual; when done, serve with arrowroot sauce, No. 97. No. 832.--KUSK PUDDING. This is prepared as in the previous number, substi- tuting eight ounces of rusks for the bread-crumbs. No. 833.—APPLE PUDDING. Peel a dozen good apples, cut them in small quarters, remove the cores, toss them in a sautapan over a slow fire, with a pat of butter, a little nutmeg, grated lemon- peel, and four ounces of sugar; and as soon as the apples become slightly softened, set them aside to cool; next, line a pudding-basin with suet-paste ; fill it with the apples, cover it in with paste, tie the pudding up in a cloth, and boil it for an hour and a half. No. 834.—PLUM PUDDING. Put the following ingredients in a basin :—three- quarters of a pound of raisins, a like quantity of currants, six ounces of candied mixed-peel, one pound of chopped beef-suet, four ounces of chopped apples, one pound of flour, six ounces of bread-crumbs, half a pound of moist sugar, five eggs, half a pint of milk, a glass of brandy, half an ounce of pounded cloves, cinnamon, and grated nutmeg, and a few coriander-seeds, a teaspoonful of salt, and some grated lemon-peel; mix thoroughly, and boil the pudding either in a cloth or in a basin, or a plain mould, for four hours and a half; and when done serve with whip sauce, No. 93. No. 835.—TAPIOCA PUDDING. Put ten ounces of tapioca into a stewpan with a quart of milk, six ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, a pinch of salt, and some grated lemon-peel; stir this over the fire until it boils, then withdraw it; add four eggs mix well, and bake for half an hour in a pie-dish. 360 THF COOK'S GUIDE, AND Note.--If the whites are whipped separately, and gently mixed in with the preparation, the pudding will be much lighter. All kinds of farinaceous substances may be prepared as above. No. 836.—RASPBERBY-ROLL PUDDING. First, make a pound of suet-paste in the following manner :—mix one pound of flour with half a pound of chopped suet, a good pinch of salt, one egg, and nearly half a pint of milk; roll the paste up into a ball, and then roll it out with a rolling-pin in the same manner as you would puff-paste, and give it four turns; this accom- plished, roll the paste out square, to the thickness of rather less than a quarter of an inch; spread some rasp- berry, or any other kind of jam, all over this without allowing it to reach the edges of the paste ; and then proceed to roll it up, so as to fold the jam inside ; wet the ends of the pudding, press them securely together, spread out a cloth on the table, grease it with butter, strew some flour over this, place the pudding at the edge of the cloth fronting you, and roll the pud- ding up tight in it; tie the ends with string, put it in plenty of boiling water, and boil it for an hour and a half; when turned out of the cloth, cut it up in slices, dredge them over with cinnamon-sugar, dish up neatly in a pile, and serve with cold cinnamon and lemon- custard. No. 837.—MUFFIN PUDDING. Boil a pint and a half of milk or cream with a pinch of salt, six ounces of sugar, six bruised bitter-almonds, and a bit of cinnamon and lemon-peel; and when this has become partially cold, mix in six whole eggs, and strain this cold custard into a basin; next, cut either four muffins or crumpets into fingers, and lay them in rows on a dish, and with a spoon pour enough of the custard over the pieces of muffin to thoroughly soak them through. You then spread the inside of a plain HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 361 mould with butter, and decorate the sides and bottom with candied-peel; place a close layer of the steeped fingers of muffin at the bottom of the mould; spread a thin layer of orange-marmalade upon this, then another layer of muffin, and so on, until the mould is filled ; after this you add a small glass of brandy to the remainder of the custard, and pour it very gently into the pudding- mould; steam the pudding slowly for an hour and a quarter, and when on its dish, serve with almond whip, No. 93. 862 THE COOK'S GULE. AND CHAPTER XXIV. JELLIES IN GENERAL. No. 838.—CALF'S-FEET JELLY. Split four calfs feet, and put them on to boil in a gal. lon of water; skim them well, and set them to continue gently boiling for about four hours, by which time the water will be reduced to half its first quantity; then strain the stock through a sieve into a basin, and when it has become cold, and set in a firm jelly, scrape off the grease, wash the surface of the calf's feet stock with a little scalding water, and after throwing this away, dab it over with a clean cloth, and put the stock into a stew- pan with two pounds of sugar, the juice of twelve lemons, the rind of six, a bruised stick of cinnamon, and twenty coriander-seeds; set this on the fire to dissolve, and then add six whites of eggs well whisked with half a pint of water, and continue whisking the jelly on the fire until it begins to boil; you then add a pint of sherry, put the lid on with some live embers of charcoal upon it, and allow it to simmer slowly by the side of the stove for twenty minutes longer, and then pour it into a jelly-bag (see Adams' Illustrations), with a basin placed under it to receive the jelly as it passes through it, and keep putting it back through the bag until it passes quite bright and clear; when all the jelly has passed through, put it away in basins to be used according to directions or convenience. HOUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER’S ASSISTANT. 363 No. 839.- GELATINE JELLY. To four ounces of gelatine (to be had of all grocers), add three-quarters of a pound of sugar, three pints of water, the juice of six lemons, and the peel of two, a bit of cinnamon, and a few coriander-seeds; stir this on the fire until the gelatine is dissolved; then add three whites of eggs whipped with a gill of water, and con- tinue stirring the jelly on the fire until it boils, and then lift it off to the side, cover it over, and allow it to continue gently boiling for about five minutes : it must then be run through a jelly-bag as in the preceding case, and either put in a mould to be set in rough ice, or else kept for other uses, as will be hereafter indi. cated. No. 840.—ORANGE JELLY. Rub the rind of six oranges upon lumps of loaf-sugar, and put these in a basin with the juice of twelve; add a pint of clarified syrup, No. 842, and two ounces of clarified isinglass, or gelatine; mix, and set the jelly in a mould in rough ice. When about to send to table, dip the mould in hot water, turn it upside-down on its dish; lift off the mould, and serve. No. 841.—LEMON JELLY. This is prepared in the same manner as the fore- going; but there is also another way of making lemon jelly bright:put the juice of six lemons and the peel of three in a stewpan with two ounces of gelatine, half a pound of sugar, and a pint of water; dissolve this by stirring it on the fire, and then add three whites of eggs whipped with a gill of water; whisk the jelly on the fire until it boils for three minutes, and then run it several times through the bag; and when it runs bright, put it in its mould, and set it in rough ice. No. 842.—TO CLARIFY SYRUP. To three pounds of loaf-sugar, add a quart of water, and half a white of egg; whisk all together in a stew. 364 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND pan or sugar-boiler, and set it to boil gently for five ininutes, adding occasionally a little cold water; and then strain it through a napkin into a basin. Sugar so clarified will prove on trial, with a syrup- gauge, to be of twenty-eight degrees' strength. No. 843.—TO CLARIFY ISINGLASS. The best isinglass comes from Russia—the finest from Archangel; there are many spurious imitations manu- factured in England—all more or less impossible to clarify : these kinds of isinglass are all more or less worthless, and are easily detected from their extreme whiteness, and fine, paper-like, shied appearance ; while genuine isinglass, whether in sheets or shred, presents all the appearance of a dull, dingy, semi-opaque looking hard skin. The spurious isinglass is almost instantly dissolved by merely stirring it in boiling water, while genuine isinglass requires half an hour's gentle boiling to dissolve it. When about to clarify isinglass, it is necessary—first, to cut it in shreds, and put it in a very clean stewpan, in the proportion of an ounce of isinglass to half a pint of cold water; stir this on the fire until it boils, and then set it down by the side to boil gently for half an hour; a few minutes before it is removed, add a lump of sugar, a teaspoonful of wood-vinegar, and a little cold water; stir all together, and remove the scum as it rises to the surface; and, at the end of the time, strain through a sieve, or napkin, for use. No. 844.—PINE-APPLE JELLY. Peel a pine apple of about a pound weight; pick out the specks, cut it up in slices, and put these in a basin. Clarify twelve ounces of sugar with a pint of water, the juice of two lemons, and half a white of egg; strain the syrup upon the pine-apple, and boil both together for HOUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 365 ten minutes. Next, strain the pine-apple syrup through a napkin into a basin; add two ounces of clarified isin. glass, No. 843, or a like quantity of gelatine, No. 839 ; set a mould in rough ice, pour three spoonfuls of the jelly at the bottom of the mould, and when this has become set firm, place thereon a neatly-arranged row of slices of the pine-apple; then add more jelly, and when this has also become set firm, repeat the pine apple and the jelly until the mould is filled up; and when set quite firm all through, and about to be sent to table, dip it in hot water, and turn the jelly out upon its dish. No. 845.—CURRANT AND RASPBERRY JELLY. Pick the stalks from a quart of red currants and a pottle of raspberries; put both fruits in a basin with three-quarters of a pound of sifted sugar, and half a pint of spring-water; bruise all well together, and then pour the whole into a suspended jelly-bag, in order that the juice may filter through perfectly bright; to attain this result it is necessary that the juice should be passed several times through the bag; and, when all the juice has passed, add thereto either two ounces of clarified isinglass, No. 843, or the same quantity of gelatine, No. 839; mix, and having set the mould in ice, when quite firm, serve. No. 846.—STRAWBERRY JELLY. First, bruise half a pound of red currants in a basin with a gill of spring-water; add two pottles of scarlet strawberries; pour a pint of hot syrup, No. 842, to these; cover the basin with a plate, and allow the infusion to stand in a cool place for a couple of hours, and then strain it through a jelly-bag into a basin; add two ounces of isinglass, or gelatine, and finish this jelly by garnishing the mould with large strawberries in the manner indicated for pine-apple jelly. 366 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND Note.—Strawberry jelly, as well as currant jelly, are used as an excellent foundation for making peach, nec- tarine, and all kinds of fruit jellies. Jellies prepared with fruit juices are cooling, as well as refreshing: - and will prove more agreeable to ladies in summer than when prepared with wine or liqueurs. No. 847.—MACEDOINE OF FRUITS. Any kind of bright jelly, flavoured with maraschino, noyeau, or kirsch, serves for this purpose; it is neces- sary, first, to set a mould in ice, and to fill it with alternate groups of different kinds of fruit and layers of jelly,—the larger fruit used for Macédoines should be cut in pieces. No. 848.—FRUIT JELLIES ICED. These constitute a species of jellies never before intro- duced to general notice : they are prepared in the first instance nearly in the same manner as directed for making all the preceding fruit jellies, with this differ- ence, that when fruit or liqueur jellies are intended to be partially frozen, two-thirds only of the usual quantity of isinglass must be used; while it is neces- sary to add one-third more of sugar, to compensate for the action of refrigeration, which tends to lessen the sweetness. As an example for the preparation of frozen jellies,- let it suffice to say, that the mould must be set in plenty of rough ice mixed with salt; and, soon as the jelly is poured into the mould, a stewpan lid is to be placed upon it, and the whole is to be covered in with more ice and salt. The jelly must be frozen in this manner for an hour only; in order that when turned out and sent to table, the interior may yet remain soft. Cold, or scarcely tepid, water, must be used to dip the mould in, when about to turn these jellies out on their dish. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 367 No. 849.- WHOLE FRUITS IN JELLY. MACEDOINE OF WHOLE FRUITS IN JELLY. Very bright jelly only should be used for this pur. pose; and a plain mould, without a pipe or cylinder, is best calculated to show the fruits; these should be so placed in the mould, as when the jelly is turned out upon its dish, to resemble the woodcut. This is to be effected—first, by placing the mould in ice in the usual way, and then, after having prepared a layer of jelly at the bottom of the mould- nearly an inch thick, and when it has become set firm, putting in the fruit in- tended to surmount the group, and then, as the jelly added to support this in its desired position becomes set, continuing to place the other fruits until the group is completed : fill up the mould with jelly, and when sot firm, turn it out on its dish. No. 850.—MARASCHINO JELLY. To one pint of clarified syrup, add two ounces of clarified isinglass, the juice of a lemon, and a wineglase 868 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND of maraschino, mix, and pour into a jelly mould set is rough ice; and when the jelly is set firm, turn it out on its dish. No. 851.—NOYEAU JELLY. This, and all other liqueur jellies, are prepared in the same manner as the foregoing. No. 852.—RUSSIAN JELLY. This is made from the remains of any kind of jelly, which, after it has been dissolved in a basin over hot water, zaust be vigorously whisked upon rough ice- into a creamy froth, and immediately poured into a mould set in ice. No. 853.—PUNCH JELLY. Put the following ingredients into a stewpan : four ounces of gelatine, ten ounces of sugar, a gill of brandy, a gill of rum, the juice of six lemons, the peel of three a slick of cinnamon, twelve cloves, twenty coriander- seeds, and half a nutmeg grated; add a pint of water and four whites of eggs, well whisked together; whisk the jelly on the fire until it boils, and then allow it to stand down by the side, with the lid on, containing live embers of charcoal, for about a quarter of an hour; pour the jelly through the bag several times, until it runs bright, and when all has run through, set in its mould in rough ice. No. 854.—PANACHEE JELLY. Prepare any kind of jelly, one-half of which should be coloured pink with a few drops of prepared cochi- neal; while the remainder should be perfectly white, or, at any rate, free from colour. Fill a mould im- bedded in rough ice, with alternate layers of the pink and white jolly, remembering that each layer, about hall an inch thick, must be allowed to become set firm before any more jelly is poured upon it; when the mould is filled in this manner, and the jelly is quite firm, it may be turned out on its dish. ANUSEKEEPER S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT 369 No. 855.—ORANGES FILLED WITH JELLY. First, with a tin cutter about half an inch in dia- meter, make an incision on the stalk end of an orange, remove the circular piece of peel thus cut through, and then, with the handle-end of a teaspoon, proceed to work out all the juice and fibres of the fruit; then soak the emptied oranges in cold water for an hour, and with the point of the finder you will be able entirely to free the inside of the orange from any remaining portion of the fibrous parts of the fruit, thus leaving the interior pith perfectly clean and smooth. It is necessary to leave the oranges when emptied in the water for an hour or so, to harden their rind; at the end of that time they must be drained upside-down upon a sieve, so as to admit of their being freed from all mois- ture inside. Pound some rough ice, and place it in a deep dish, and arrange the empty oranges in rows (taking care to stop up any crevices or holes with bits of butter); fill one-half with pink jelly, and the re- mainder with white; or, for variety sake, each orange may be filled with alternate layers of different-coloured jellies or creams. When the jelly is set firm in the oranges, they are to be wiped with a napkin, cut in quarters with a sharp knife. When built up with green leaves between each quarter, they form a very pretty dish. No. 856.—LEMONS FILLED WITH JELLY OR CREAM. Proceed to empty the lemons in the manner indicated for oranges, and fill them with different-coloured jelly, or cream, or blanc-manger; when set firm, cut them up in quarters, and dish them up in a similar style, u 370 THE MOOK'S GUIDE ANI) THE COOK'S GUIDE ANI CHAPTER XXV. DIFFERENT KINDS OF CREAM. No. 857.—BLANC-MANGER. Put six ounces of Jordan almonds and twelve bitter. almonds in a stewpan with a pint of hot water, and just give them a single boil on the fire ; drain off the water, rinse them in cold water, drain them in a cloth, rub off their hulls or skins, wash and pound them in a mortar with a tablespoonful of orange-flower water and half a pound of loaf sugar, until they are reduced to a creamy pulp; take this up in a basin, add rather better than a pint of spring-water; mix and allow this to stand in a cool place for an hour; and then, after having strained the milk of almonds through a clean sieve into a basin, add two ounces of clarified isinglass; mix, pour the blanc-manger into a mould imbedded in ice, and when set quite firm, dish it up. No. 858.—BAVARIAN CREAM. Whip a pint of double cream until it presents the appearance of a snow-like froth; be careful not to over- whip it for it would then produce butter. To the whipped cream add a glass of any kind of liqueur (such as noyeau, curaçoa, maraschino, kirsch, rum, vanilla, &c.), six ounces of sifted sugar, and two ounces of clarified' isinglass; mix lightly and thoroughly, ani HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 371 use this to fill a mould imbedded in ice, and when set firm, dip the mould in hot water, wipe it, and turn the cream out on its dish. No. 859.—STRAWBERRY CREAM. Pick the stalks from a punnet of strawberries, and bruise them with a wooden spoon in a basin, with six ounces of sifted sugar and a few drops of prepared cochineal; rub this through a clean hair sieve into a basin ; add a pint of whipped cream and two ounces of clarified isinglass; mix, and with this fill a mould imbedded in rough ice, and finish in the usual way. Note. -All kinds of seed-fruits prepared as above may be used for making similar creams. No. 860.—APRICOT CREAM. Split a dozen ripe apricots, crack the stones, extract and skin their kernels, and put them with the apricots in a sugar-boiler (see Adams' Illustrations), with six ounces of loaf sugar and half a pint of water; stir the whole on the fire until the apricots are entirely dis- solved, and then rub this pulp through a hair sieve into a basin;, add a pint of whipped cream, two ounces of clarified isinglass, and the juice of half a lemon; mix, and mould in ice. Note.—Creams may be made as above, with peaches, nectarines, and all kinds of plums, when treated ac- cording to the directions for the preparation of apricots, as shown in this number. When peaches are used for this purpose, a few drops of cochineal must be added, just to give a pink tinge to the cream. No. 861.—COFFEE CREAM. Put a breakfast cupful of made-coffee into a stewpan with rather better than half a pint of boiled milk; add eight yolks of eggs, a pinch of salt, and half a pound of sugar; stir the cream briskly on the fire until it begins to thicken ; stir for a minute longer, and then run it 2 B 2 372 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND through a sieve into a basin : add two ounces of dis solved gelatine ; mix, and set the cream in a mould imbedded in rough ice. No. 862.—CHOCOLATE CREAM. Grate six ounces of chocolate, and put it into a stew- pan with a pint of boiled milk, six ounces of sugar, and eight yolks of eggs; stir the cream on the fire until it thickens ; run it through a hair sieve into a basin; add two ounces of dissolved gelatine ; mix, and set the creann in a mould imbedded in rough ice. No. 863.—RUSSIAN CHARLOTTE. Trim about six ounces of finger-biscuits, perfectly straight, so as to make them fit closely to one another, and line the bottom and sides of a plain mould with them; imbed the mould in rough ice; fill it with any one of the preceding creams (to which add half a pint of whipped cream), and when set, turn it out on its dish. No. 864.—ITALIAN CREAM. Put four ounces of ratifias into a stewpan with eight yolks of eggs, a wineglassful of curaçoa, a bruised stick of cinnamon, some rind of an orange, a pint of boiled milk, and six ounces of sugar; stir the cream on the fire until it thickens; rub it through a hair sieve into a basin ; add two ounces of dissolved gelatine, half a pint of whipped cream, and two ounces of each of the following articles : preserved ginger, dried cherries, and candied-peel—all cut small; mix, and fill a mould im bedded in ice. No. 865.—CARAMEL CREAM. Put four ounces of sugar with a bruised stick of cinnamon, the peel of a lemon, and half a gill of water, into a stewpan on the fire to boil until it is of a light brown; it must then be stirred a little while longer on the fire, without allowing it to gain too dark a HOUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 373 hue; you then pour in half a gill of water to dissolve it, and add eight yolks of eggs, a pint of milk, and six ounces of sugar; stir the cream on the fire until it thickens ; run it through a sieve into a basin; add half a pint of whipped cream, and two ounces of dissolved gelatine; mix, and fill a mould imbedded in ice. No. 866.—CELESTINE CREAM. Imbed a plain mould in some rough ice, and line the bottom and the sides of the mould with picked straw. berries, taking care to dip each strawberry in dis. solved thin isinglass in which there has been mixed some maraschino, as they are built round the mould ; and when the mould is thus completely lined inside, fill the interior with any of the preceding creams. No. 867.—CURRANT AND RASPBERRY CHEESE. Pick a pound of red currants and a pottle of rasp- berries, and put them in a sugar-boiler with half a pint of water, and three-quarters of a pound of sugar; stir this over the fire until thoroughly dissolved: five minutes boiling will suffice; rub the pulp through a hair sieve into a basin; add two ounces of gelatine dissolved in half a pint of water; mix, and fill a piped mould with this; and when the cheese is set firm, turn it out on its dish, and fill the centre of the pipe with whipped cream. No. 868.—APRICOT CHEESE. Cut up a dozen ripe apricots and put them in a sugar- boiler with half a pound of sugar, a pint of water, and half a lemon juice; stir this on the fire until the fruit is thoroughly dissolved, and then rub the pulp through a hair sieve into a basin; add two ounces of dissolved gelatine; mix, and use this to fill a mould, and finish as in the foregoing case. Note.—Transparent cheese may also be made with pine-apple, peaches, and all kinds of fraits, by following the above directions. ROUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 375 tied down afresh; and the nozzle of each bottle mast be dipped in hot bottle-wax. When all are satisfactorily finished, let them be put away in the cellar, binned up in the same order as is customary with bottles of wine. Note.—The bottle-wax must be melted with bees'- wax, at the rate of one ounce of bees'-wax to one pound of bottle-wax. I strongly recommend that green-wax should never be used for any of these purposes, as it contains cor- rosive poison in its composition; and however careful persons may be while removing the wax previously to drawing the cork, it may easily happen, that some un- perceived portion of the green wax may find its way into the fruit, and occasion serious mischief. All other coloured wax is harmless. No. 870. – TO BOTTLE CURRANTS. The currants must be gathered in dry weather, picked into dry, clean bottles, filled up with syrup, No.842, corked and tied down as directed in No. 869; and after they have been submitted to the action of ten minutes' very gentle ebullition, or simmering, remove them from the fire ; and when cold, wipe and wax over the nozzles, and finish as directed in No. 869. No. 871.—TO BOTTLE RASPBERRIES. Pick the raspberries without bruising them, into dry, clean bottles ; fill up with syrup, No. 842; cork and tie down, and submit them to ten minutes' gentle ebulli. ton, and when cold, finish as directed in No. 869. No. 872.—TO BOTTLE STRAWBERRIES. Strawberries called seedlings are the best for bottling; they must be treated in all respects in the same manner as indicated for raspberries. 376 THE COOR'S GUIDE, AND No. 873.—TO BOTTLE CHERRIES. All kinds of cherries intended for bottling must be gathered in dry weather; picked from their stalks into dry, clean bottles filled up to the neck with syrup, No. 842; corked, tied down, submitted to twelve minutes' gentle ebullition; and when cold, finished as indicated in No. 869. No. 874.—TO BOTTLE APRICOTS. Apricots for bottling should not be over-ripe; they must be split in halves, peeled very thinly, and neatly arranged in dry, clean bottles, filled up with rather thicker syrup than is required for the preceding fruits ; and when corked and tied down, must be submitted to twelve minutes' gentle ebullition; and when cold, waxed over in the usual manner. Note-Bear in mind that, in all cases, the fruit is to be put on to boil in cold water. No. 875.—TO BOTTLE PEACHES. Split the peaches in halves; scald them in thin syrup to remove the skins ; arrange the halves in dry, clean bottles, filled up with rather thick syrup; cork and tie them down with string; put the bottles thus filled into a deep vessel ; pour cold water to them in sufficient quan- tity to reach up to their necks; submit them to a quarter of an hour's gentle ebullition, and when cold and waxed over, bin them up in the cellar, similarly to bottles of wine. No. 876.—TO BOTTLE GREENGAGES. Pick the stalks from the greengages or greengage- plums (for these serve the purpose quite as well, and are not so expensive) into dry, clean bottles; fill them up with syrup, No. 842; cork and tie them down with string; give them a quarter of an hour's gentle ebulli- tion; and when cold, wax over the nozzles, and put the in a cold place. HOUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 377 No. 877.—TO BOTTLE ORLEANS PLUMS. These are treated in all particulars in the manner directed for preserving greengages. No. 878.—TO BOTTLE DAMSONS. Pick and bottle the fruit, fill up with syrup, No. 842, give a quarter of an hour's ebullition, and when cold, and waxed over, in up the bottles in a cold place. No. 879.—TO BOTTLE PINE-APPLES. Peel the pine-apples without waste; cut them up in slices about half an inch thick, and again cut these in halves, or thick fingers, and put them into dry, clean bottles ; fill up with syrup; No. 842; cork and tie down; give them twenty minutes' ebullition; and when cold, wax over the nozzles of the bottles, and bin them up in the cellar. No. 880.—TO PRESERVE ANGELICA GREEN. Cut the tubes or stalks of angelica into six-inch lengths; wash them, and then put them into a copper preserving-pan with hot syrup, No. 842; cover the sur- face with vine-leaves, and set the whole to stand in the larder till the next day. The angelica must then be drained on a sieve, the vine-leaves thrown away, half a pint of water added to the syrup, in which, after it has been boiled, skimmed, and strained into another pan, and the copper-pan has been scoured clean, both the angelica and the boiling syrup are to be replaced and the surface covered with fresh vine-leaves, and again left to stand in this state until the next day : this process must be repeated three or four days running; at the end of which time the angelica will be suffi- ciently green and done through, and should be put in jars without breaking the tubes. After the syrup has been boiled and skimmed, fill up the jars; and when they are become cold, cover them over with bladder 380 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 885.—ORANGES IN SYRUP Score the oranges all over in imitation of some orna- mental design representing basket-work, or trellice- work, &c.; and simmer them very gently in water, until nearly done through. They must then be thrown into cold water, to soak for twenty-four hours, changing their water every three hours; at the end of this time they should be allowed to drain on a sieve for several hours, and then being placed in an earthern pan with sufficient syrup of 28 degrees' strength poured gently upon them. For three successive days, let the syrup be boiled up and skimmed, and when nearly cold, poured back to the oranges; after this the oranges may be put away in jars. No. 886.—PRESERVED LEMONS. Select well-shaped, smoothed-skinned, pale-coloured lemons, and peel, or rather turn off the very outer zest or rind as thin as paper; perforate the stalk-end with a tin cutter, and empty them in the manner described for oranges filled with jelly. In all other particulars, pro- ceed as for oranges, as indicated in the preceding number. Note.- Oranges preserved as herein indicated for lemons, are less liable to ferment, and consequently this method is so far preferable. No. 887.—DRIED CHERRIES. Kentish cherries are fittest for this purpose; they should be ripe, and gathered in dry weather; the stones carefully picked out without bruising the fruit, with small-pointed wooden skewers or pegs about six inches long. As the cherries are picked, let them be thrown into a white pan containing syrup of 28 degrees; and as soon as this is finished, pour off the syrup into a pre- serving-pan; boil it up; and when the first heat has gone off, pour it to the cherries. This process must be per- number. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT 381 formed for three successive days; and on the fourth day the cherries are to be thoroughly drained from their syrup, strewn apart from each other upon clean wire trays (see Adams' Illustrations), and put in the screen to dry. Care must be taken to see that they are turned about in order that they may receive the heat equally, and also to ascertain that it is never intense, for that would increase their colour to a dark shade, which is to be avoided with all fruits. No. 888.—DRIED BARBERRIES. Barberries, for this purpose, must be perfectly red and ripe; they must be gathered in bunches, washed, drained, and put in a pan with 28 degrees' syrup, par- tially cold, and the syrup boiled up and poured again to them for three successive days; on the fourth day, pro- ceed as for cherries. Note.—Barberries may also be preserved in the same way as currants. No. 889.—CHESTNUTS GLACES. Lyons or Spanish chestnuts are best for this and all other purposes. A slight incision should be made across the skin of each, and the chestnuts put on at in, or baking- sheet in the oven to roast. When done, and freed from all the husks, while yet quite hot, let each be pressed flat with the hand, and two stuck together with apricot jam between. Next, boil 12 ounces of sugar perfectly white—to the snap, and with a silver fork to hold the prepared chestnuts upon, dip each separately in the sugar. After allowing all excess to drop off into the pan, rest the chestnuts on oiled wire trays, and when the sugar has become set firm and cold, dish up these chestnuts upon lace papers, in a compote glass, or dish. No. 890.-- MELON GLACE. Cut the melon in slices, or ribs; remove the seeds and the peel, and pare away all asperities. As you turn UVCSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 383 CHAPTER XXVII. COMPOTES OF FRUITS FOR DESSERTS No. 892.—COMPOTE OF APPLES. Any kind of apple will answer the purpose—more 01 less; but firm sweet apples, such as the russet, the golden pippin, &c., are best suited for compotes, from the fact that they bear the action of gentle boiling without breaking. Cut the apples in halves, remove the cores with an iron scoop, pare, or turn them smooth, and simmer them very gently in thin syrup with lemon. juice until nearly done through; the pieces of apple should then be carefully removed into a basin,—and after the syrup has been reduced to half its original quantity, it is to be poured on the compote. When about to dish up the compote, place one piece in the centre, and surround it with other pieces ; decorate their surface with light designs cut out from angelica, preserved cucumber, any kind of red jelly, yellow pine, chinois, orange, &c., and just before sending to table, pour the syrup lightly over. It is also cus- tomary to cover compotes with circular sheets or nappes of apple jelly, cast in plates, and removed by the aid of the fingers. See Apple Jelly, No 998 884 THE COOK S GUIDE, AND No. 893.—COMPOTE OF PEARS. When ripe mellow pears are used for making com. potes, follow in all particulars the directions for making compotes of apples; but when these are no longer in season, and the hard-baking pears only are to be obtained, they must be treated as follows:—split the pears in halves, or quarters, according to size; remove the cores, pare them smoothly, put them on to simmer very gently with a quart of water, ten ounces of sugar, a few cloves, and lemon-peel : these should be stewed in a tinned stewpan with a bit of pewter, in order to turn them of a bright crimson. When the pears are done, drain them into a white basin, reduce the syrup, and pour it on them. No. 894.—COMPOTE OF ORANGES First, pare off the rind of three oranges very thinly, and reserve it on a plate; then divide them into halves with a very sharp knife; remove the white pithy cord which runs down the centre of the fruit, and cut off the rind and pith in strips down to the quick—thus leaving the halves of oranges transparently bare; dish up these rather high in the compote glass, throw the rind kept in reserve into four ounces of sugar boiled with a gill of water for five minutes; strain this syrup into a basin, add a small glass of rum, or brandy, pour over the compote, and serve. No. 895.—COMPOTE OF PEACHES. Divide the peaches in halves; gently simmer them with syrup in a sugar-boiler for five minutes; drain them; remove their skins; dish them up in a compotier; reduce the syrup with a wineglassful of red-currant juice, and pour it over the fruit. No. 896.—COMPOTE OF APRICOTS. Split and peel the apricots; put them into a sugar- wiler with syrup, and merely simmer them for three HOUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 385 minutes over the fire; then drain each piece separately with a spoon into a basin; boil down the syrup to half its quantity, and add it to the apricots. No. 897.—COMPOTE OF GREENGAGES. These are used whole, with the stalks left on :—for their preparation, see the first part of Greengages Glacés, No. 884. No. 898.—COMPOTE OF CHERRIES. Fine large cherries of light colour, and perfectly ripe, are fittest for this purpose : the stalks should be cut off half way, and all of the same length; the cherries should be simmered in syrup for three minutes, and dished with their stalks upright: a spoonful of noyeau may be added to the syrup. No. 899.- COMPOTE OF PINE-APPLE. For this compote, follow the first part of the direc- tions for the preparation of pine-apple glacé, No. 881. No. 900.—COMPOTE OF STRAWBERRIES. Pick the strawberries into a basin ; pour a pint of syrup of 28 degrees to them; cover them over with a plate, and when this has stood for an hour, pour off the syrup into a sugar-boiler; add a wineglassful of red- currant juice; boil down to half the quantity; strain through a sieve to the strawberries ; add a small glass of maraschino :—dish up in a pile in the compotier, and add the syrup. No. 901.—IMITATION OF GINGER. Pumpkin, cucumber, and salsifis may be used advan- tageously for the purpose. When pumpkins or cucum- bers are used, they should be peeled, and cut into shapes in imitation of preserved green ginger, and very gently simmered for a few minutes only in syrup pre- pared as follows:—To a pound of loaf-sugar add a 2 o MOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER’S ASSISTANT. 387 CHAPTER XXVIII. DESSERT CAKES. No. 903.—ICED SPONGES. Put four ounces of sifted sugar into a large basin with eight yolks of eggs, three ounces of flour, and a few drops of essence of orange or lemon; work all together vigorously with a spattle (see Adams' Illustrations) for ten minutes, and then add six whites whipped firm; mix thoroughly, and bake this batter (moderate heat) in a paper-case of such dimensions as will admit of the cake being an inch thick. When the sponge is withdrawn from the oven and has become cold, remove the paper, cut the cake into squares, fingers, rounds, lozenges, or any other form; place these on a baking-sheet, and after spreading some preserve on their surface, ice them over with royal icing, No. 746 ; dry them in the open screen, and use them for dessert. No. 904.—DRY SAVOYS. Whip firm 15 whites of eggs, and incorporate there. with, very lightly, one pound of sifted sugar, half a pound of flour, and a few drops of flavouring; bake in a paper-case two inches deep; and when done, and cold, use a sharp knife to cut the biscuit in thin slices; place these upon paper on a baking-sheet, and dry them in a moderate heat, of a light colour. 2 C2 388 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 905.—CRACKLINGS. Whip ten whites of eggs quite firm, and incorporate therewith eight ounces of dried flour, twelve ounces of sifted sugar, six yolks of eggs, and a few drops of essence of vanilla; mix lightly, and lay the biscuits out on hands of paper in small oval shapes with a forcing bag (see Adams' Illustrations); dredge them over with sugar, and when melted, bake them of a light colour in moderate heat; when they are done, turn the bands upside down, pass a wet brush over the paper, and the cakes will easily drop off: they must then be dried on a wire sieve in the screen. No. 906.—DUTCH DROPS. Six yolks of eggs, worked in a basin with twelve ounces of sifted sugar, six ounces of dried flour, four ounces of dissolved butter, one ounce of pounded bitter- almonds, the rind of two lemons rubbed on sugar, twenty coriander-seeds bruised, and a teaspoonful of essence, or powdered cinnamon; work all vigorously together, and then mix in lightly twelve whites of eggs whipped quite firm. Lay the drops out the size of a walnut, on clean baking-sheets previously rubbed over with white wax; strew white sugar broken in very small nibs mixed with chopped pistachios over the drops, and bake them in moderate heat, of a light colour: when done, the drops may be easily detached from the sheet, by passing a knife under them. No. 907.—PATIENCE. Twelve ounces of sugar, ten ounces of flour, six yolks, and a few drops of essence of cedrati; mix thoroughly, and whisk the whole in a copper egg bowl (see Adams' Illustrations) over a smothered charcoal fire, until the batter presents a white smooth creamy appearance; then incorporate thoroughly and lightly six whites whipped quite firm : lay the small drops out with s HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 389 biscuit-forcer (see Adams' Illustrations), on waxed ba- king-sheets, and dry them, of a very light colour, in a slack oven. No. 908.—CINNAMON BISCUITS. Mix a pound of sugar with twelve yolks of eggs, and a teaspoonful of essence of cinnamon; work the batter vigorously with a wooden spoon for a quarter of an hour, and then mix in the twelve whites whipped firm, four ounces of potato flour, and four ounces of best flour; fill small paper-cases with this, sugar them over, and when the sugar is melted, bake them in an oven of moderate heat, of a light colour. No. 909.—MAGENTAS. Put a pound of sifted sugar into a large basin with twelve yolks of eggs, two ounces of ground bitter- almonds, and one ounce of dried orange flowers, bruised : work all together vigorously with a wooden spoon for a quarter of an hour, and then mix in six ounces of dis- solved butter, eight whipped whites of eggs, and twelve ounces of flour; fill small tin pans previously buttered, sugared over with fine sugar, and some shred almonds sprinkled on the bottom; strew shred almonds on their surface; dredge them over with sugar, and bake in moderate heat: when these biscuits are turned out of their moulds, serve either side uppermost. No. 910.—LUCKNOWS. Boil a pound of sugar to the degree beyond its form ing large pearls or bubbles on the surface, and when the first heat has subsided, whip it into five whipped whites of eggs; flavour with zest of orange-peel ; fill a biscuit-forcer, and lay out the biscuits in small oval forms upon buttered and floured baking-sheets; dredge them over with sugar and chopped pistachios, and bake them with moderate heat. 390 THE COOR'S GUIDE, AND No. 911.—TURIN CAKES. Put ten yolks of eggs into a large basin with four ounces of ground almonds (previously pounded with the white of an egg and a spoonful of orange-flower water) and a pound of sifted sugar; work all together vigorously with a wooden spoon for twenty minutes, and then add the ten whipped whites, three ounces of flour, and the same quantity of dried and sifted potato flour; mix lightly, and bake the biscuits in small buttered and sugared tartlet-pans—moderate heat. When the biscuits are baked and cold, mask them over with white icing flavoured with rum. No. 912.—CREAM BISCUITS. Work six yolks of eggs with six ounces of sifted sugar, and a tablespoonful of vanilla sugar for twenty minutes; then add the six whites whipped firm, and three ounces of flour; and lastly, mix in, very lightly, a gill and a half of double cream whipped; fill small paper-cases with this; sugar them over, and bake in very moderate heat. No. 913.—TRANSPARENTS. Almost any kind of cake cut up, or previously made in any fancy shapes, may be used for this purpose. In all cases the cakes intended to be glacés should be slightly hollowed out on the surface for the purpose of retaining the preserve with which they are to be covered previously to their being glacés. These very delicious and beautiful dessert-cakes produce almost infinite varieties, and at small cost, inasmuch as the same batter in different forms,—or even larger cakes, or the remains of these cut up, as I have stated above,- answer just as well. The principal part of the operation consists in the preparation of the sugar for what is HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 391 termed transparent icing; and which is accomplished as follows : viz.,—put half a pound of the best loaf-sugar into a copper sugar-boiler with half a pint of water, and after skimming off the surface as it begins to boil, allow it to boil down to forty degrees—or what is termed to the blow point, -that is, when a perforated spoon has been lightly dipped in the sugar by blowing through the holes,—the sugar distends in comparatively large bubbles or globes; it must then be removed from the fire and the bottom of the pan placed in a basin con- taining cold water. As soon as the sugar begins to set—to thicken, work it from the liquid centre against the side of the sugar-boiler in order to give it a slightly dimmed or opalized appearance, adding gradually, by teaspoonfuls, half a gill of noyeau, or any other liqueur, and also a little clarified syrup; and use this to mask over the upper part of the cakes previously covered with any of the following preserves :—apricot, damson, currant jelly, &c. As they are turned out of hand, put them in rows upon a wire-drainer on a dish, after- wards to be placed in the open screen to dry for five minutes. No. 914.--LOVE'S WELLS. Prepare half a pound of Genoese or pound-cake, which must be baked about an inch thick. When cold, it is to be cut out with round, oval, crescent, or leaf- shaped cutters, and these must be again stamped on the upper surface with a smaller cutter, so as to make an incision about a quarter of an inch deep; this inner piece must be removed and the cake hollowed out, and nearly filled with whipped cream flavoured with vanilla, orange, &c., and the top covered in by spreading some kind of preserve lightly over the cream, by means of a cornet, or biscuit-forcer; this completed, let the cakes be iced over entirely— with any kind of transparent icing indicated in the preceding case, or, merely with ordi- nary icing made with white of egg, and fine icing sugar. 392 THE COOK & GUIDE, AND No. 915.—ICED FRUITS FOR COMPOTES. Any fruits such as small bunches of grapes, red, white, or black currants, gooseberries, cherries, straw. berries, raspberries, or mulberries, have a very pretty effect when iced over with sifted sugar, according to the following directions : viz.,—remember that for this purpose none but perfect fruit should be selected; next, whip the white of an egg and a wineglass of water on a plate with the blade of a clean knife, until both are well frothed and mixed; then add a dessert-spoonful of icing sugar; and when all is thoroughly incorporated, strain it through a sieve into another plate. The fruit must be dipped separately in this egg-water, well shaken to remove any excess of moisture, and carefully rolled in hot sifted white sugar, and then placed in rows on a wire sieve to dry in the open screen. These fruits dished up on green leaves in a compotier, or arranged in varieties on dress plates, present a cool, charming appearance on the dessert-table. 394 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND to give 24 degrees with the syrup gauge; freeze and mould, as in the preceding case. No. 918.—PINE-APPLE-WATER ICE. One pound of pine-apple, peeled and boiled in a pint of syrup, and afterwards pulped by pounding in a mortar, and rubbing the fruit through a sieve; add the pulp to the syrup and a little water so as to give 24 degrees with the syrup-gauge; set up and freeze in the usual way. No. 919.—POMME-GRENADE-WATER ICE. Break carefully four ripe grenades, or, as they are generally called, pomegranates; put the pips of the fruit in a plate, and when the whole is freed from their husks, bruise them with a wooden spoon in small quantities at a time, on a hair sieve to extract their juice, which must run through the sieve into a basin; to a pint of the juice, add the juice of two lemons, a pint of very strong syrup, a tablespoonful of orange-flower water, the rubbed rind of an orange, and a few drops of cochineal; mix, and freeze as usual. No. 920.- MELON-WATER ICE. The pure fruit from a ripe melon, bruised into a pulp by rubbing it through a clean coarse hair sieve, mixed in a basin with a pint of syrup, the juice of two lemons, and a few drops of orange-flower water; freeze, and set up the ice, as directed in No. 916. No. 921.—ROMAN GRANITO. Mix a pint of strong bright coffee with a pint of syrup of 18 degrees; put this into glass water-decanters well imbedded in ice mixed with salt and saltpetre. The bottles must be corked, and worked round with the hand; and, as the coffee becomes frozen on the sides of the bottles, the granito must be detached with a thin HOU SEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 395 wooden spattle introduced down the necks of the bottles. This agreeable kind of liquid ice, or sorbet, is served in coffee cups or glasses, at evening parties. If preferred, the granito may be frozen in an ordinary freezing-pot in the usual way, and served up ready to be poured out in glass jugs. No. 922.—PEACH-WATER ICE. Six ripe peaches cut in quarters, and boiled in a sugar-boiler with half a pint of syrup for ten minutes, and rubbed through a very clean hair sieve into a basin. Add half a pint of currant juice, a few drops of essence of bitter-almonds, and a pint of syrup; freeze, and set up in the usual way. When currants are not procurable, the juice of two lemons may be used instead, in which case a few drops of cochineal must be added to give the necessary pink tinge. No. 923—APRICOT-WATER ICE. One pound of ripe apricots boiled in half a pint of syrup for ten minutes, and then rubbed through a hair sieve into a basin. Add a few drops of essence of bitter- almonds, the juice of a lemon, and not quite a pint of syrup; freeze, and set up. Note.—Bear in mind that while ices are being frozen, they must be frequently well worked with the spattle, to render them smooth and give them body. No. 924.—STRAWBERRY-WATER ICE. Pick a pound of strawberries, and bruise them with four ounces of red currants, and a gill of syrup in a basin with a wooden spoon, and rub this through a hair sieve into a basin; add a pint of syrup, freeze, and set up. No. 925.—CURRANT AND RASPBERRY WATER ICE. Put one pound of red currants, and a pottle of rasp- berries in a sugar-boiler, with a gill of water and four 396 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND ounces of sifted sugar ; bruise all together, and stir over the fire until it boils, and then rub this through a sieve into a basin ; add a pint of syrup, set up in the freezing- pot, and finish the ice in the usual way. No. 926.—CHERRY-WATER ICE. Pick a pound and a half of red cherries, and pound them in a mortar to crack their kernels, and put them into a sugar-boiler with four ounces of sugar; boil for four minutes, and rub through a sieve into a basin; add a pint of syrup, freeze, and mould the ice. No. 927.—ICED PUNCH GRANITO. Half a pint of syrup, half a pint of pine-apple syrup, the rubbed peel of an orange, the juice of three lemons, a teacupful of strong green tea, a gill of brandy, a gill of rum, a pint of champagne, and a gill of maraschino. Mix and freeze as in No. 916, and serve this punch in glass jugs, to be handed round in wineglasses. No. 928.—ICED ROMAN PUNCH. A pint of syrup, a pint of pine-apple syrup, half a pint of green tea, the rind of two oranges rubbed on sugar and scraped off, a teaspoonful of essence of cin- namon, and a bottle of champagne. Freeze the punch in the same manner as you would any other ice, taking care to work it well with the spattle while it is being frozen; and when quite firm, add by degrees, and in small quantities at a time, three whites of eggs of Italian meringue-paste; working the whole vigorously with the spattle; and, ten minutes before serving the punch, add by degrees half a pint of old white Jamaica rum. The Roman punch is to be served in high glasses between the first and second courses; it should be of a thick creamy liquid; but if it happen to be too thick to admit of its being poured into the glasses, it may be slightly thinned by the addition of a little more champagne. 398 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND Prepare the ham as directed in No. 450, and when quite cold, and trimmed as represented in the woodcut, let it be garnished with aspic jelly. No. 931.—TONGUE WITH ASPIC JELLY. Prepare a tongue as directed in No. 394, and when quite cold and glazed, place it on its dish, and ornament it with aspic jelly. No. 932.—GALANTINE OF POULARDE. Bone a poularde, or turkey, or a large fowl; draw the skin of the legs and wings inside; spread out the boned fowl flat upon the table; season with pepper and salt and a little aromatic spices ; spread a layer of sausage- meat an inch thick upon this; add some long squares of red tongue or ham, and some small black truffles, and a few pistachio-kernels; repeat the sausage-meat, the seasoning, and the tongue, &c.; and having sufficiently filled up the galantine, sew it up with twine, roll it in a buttered napkin, fasten the ends with string, and set it to braize in some well-seasoned veal and calf's feet stock for about an hour and half. When done, the galantine must be allowed to become partially cold in its own stock, in order that it may thus preserve its mellowness and savour. The galantine must be put in press between dishes, with a fourteen-pound weight on the top, and when quite cold, removed from the napkin ; the string must be taken out, and the galantine having been glazed and placed on its dish, ornament it with aspic jelly. No. 933.—MAYONAISE OF FOWL. Cut up a cold fowl into small joints; steep them in a basin with a little oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt; drain them on a cloth ; dish them up in a pyramidal form, on a thick bed of seasoned shred-lettuces ; mask them all over smoothly with some white mayonaise sauce. No. 37; garnish round the base with a border of neatly. cut quarters of haril-boiled eggs, the hearts of lettuces, HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 399 olives, fillets of anchovies, or crôutons of aspic jelly ; ornament the top with a few sprigs of tarragon or chervil, or with aspic jelly. No. 934.—MAYONAISE OF LOBSTER. This is prepared nearly in the same manner as the foregoing, using the meat of the lobster cut into collops for the purpose; colour the Tartare sauce, No. 38, with lobster spawn or coral, pounded and mixed with some of the sauce, and rubbed through a sieve to smooth it; or when the lobster-salad has been sauced over with either mayonaise or Tartare sauce, some pow- dered and sifted lobster coral may be sprinkled over the surface; garnish as indicated for mayonaise of fowl. No. 935.—MAYONAISE OF FILLETS OF SOLES. Simmer the fillets of two soles in a sautapan with a little butter, lemon-juice, pepper and salt; and when done, put them in press between two dishes; when cold, divide each fillet into collops two and a half inches long; trim them neatly; season them with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt; and dish them in pyramidal rows on a bed of shred lettuce or any other salad; mask with mayonaise sauce, No. 37, coloured with some spinach greening, or merely with plenty of very finely- chopped tarragon and chervil; garnish round the base of the salad with a border of hard eggs, &c., and serve. No. 936.—MAYONAISE OF SALMON. Boil a pound of salmon, and when cold, cut it up into pieces about two inches long, by one inch wide, and half an inch thick; and use them to prepare and finish a mayonaise in the manner indicated in the foregoing case. Note.—The remains of salmon, turbot, brill, or soles, may be used, as a matter of economy, for any of the foregoing purposes. 400 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 937.—GROUSE SALAD. Roast off a grouse, and with the trimmings prepare a salmis sauce as directed in No. 68; reduce this stiffly; and having mixed in a third proportion of aspic jelly, use it to mask the joints of grouse with a rather thick coating of the sauce, and set them on a dish upon rough ice to become set firm. Place a thick bed of seasoned shred lettuce on the centre of the dish; and upon this foundation build up the joints of grouse; garnish round the base with a border of curled celery, and an outer border of quarters of hard eggs; pour some white may- onaise sauce, No. 37, round, between the bottom part of the joints of grouse and the celery ; place an orna- ment of aspic jelly on the top, and serve. No. 938.—FRICASSEE CHAUDFROID. Boil a chicken in some white veal stock, and use the stock to make some highly-seasoned and stiffly-reduced Allemande sauce, No. 17; cut up the chicken into small neat joints ; mask them all over with the sauce, and place them on a dish to become cold, and set firm ; dish them up in a pyramidal pile; garnish and orna- ment with aspic jelly. No. 939.—SALMIS CHAUDFROID OF PARTRIDGES. Cut up two roast partridges into small joints, and use their trimmings to prepare a stiffly-reduced salmis sauce, No. 68; add thereto one-third proportion of aspic jelly; mix together, and use the sauce to mask the joints of partridges, which, after the sauce has become set firm upon them, are to be dished up in a pyramidal form, garnished with aspic jelly and a few truffles, or pre- pared white cocks' combs. Note.—This dish may be prepared also with phea- sants, plovers, woodcocks, quails, &c., for ball-suppers, &c. KOUSEKEEPER S AND BOTLER'S ASSISTANT, 401 No. 940.—POTTED FOWL AND HAM. Roast off a chicken, and while hot, remove all the meat from the bones, and with these make a little broth, well seasoned with herbs and spice, and boil it down to a glaze ; chop the meat with six ounces of cooked ham, and pound both together in a mortar into a smooth pulp; add the glaze, and four ounces of clari- fied butter; pound well together, and put closely in small flat earthen pie-pots; cover these in with clarified butter, and keep them in a cool place for use. No. 941.—POTTED TONGUE. Any tongue left from a previous day's dinner should be divested of all hard parts, and pounded with a fourth proportion of clarified butter, seasoned with cayenne, put into pots, and covered in with clarified butter. No. 942.—POTTED PHEASANT. Roast off a pheasant, remove all the meat from the bones, and put them into a small stewpan with a glass of sherry, ditto of mushroom-catsup, four shalots, a bay- leaf, and thyme, a bit of ham, and a quart of good gravy; boil this down to a glaze, and strain it into a basin. First chop, and then pound all the meat in a mortar into a smooth pulp; add the glaze, six ounces of clarified butter, salt, and cayenne pepper; pound all together, and fill small pots with this; cover in with clarified butter. No. 943.—POTTED HARE. Cut up the hare into joints or pieces, and set them aside on a plate ; next, cut up two pounds of streaky bacon into square pieces the size of walnuts, and fry these in a stewpan; then add the pieces of hare, and fry those also with the bacon; add a handful of mushrooms, two bay- leaves, some thyme, basil and winter savory, two cloves of garlic, twenty cloves, three blades of mace, a teaspoon- ful of black peppercorns, a tablespoonful of salt, a pint 402 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND of madeira, and a pinch of cayenne; put the lid on, and net all this to simmer very gently in the oven for an hour and a half. The hare must then be strained from its liquor; all the meat is to be removed from the bones, chopped, pounded; all the grease and bacon added and pounded again into a smooth pulp, and then rubbed through a wire sieve on to a dish, and after- wards put into a large kitchen-pan, to be mixed up with the liquor from the hare. If the liquor or stock from the hare measures more than a pint, it should be boiled down to that quantity, and about four ounces of good glaze should be added. Fill some ordinary preserving pie- pans with the preparation, cover them over with com- mon flour-and-water paste, set the pans thus far pre- pared in deep sautapans, or baking-sheets with a little water at the bottom; and put them to bake in an oven of moderate heat for about one hour; they must then be taken out, the meat pressed down level with a spoon ; some clarified butter or lard poured over the top in sufficient quantity to cover in the meat; and as soon as they are become cold, let the pans be covered over with strong white papers moistened on one side with whites of egg; and when perfectly dry, oil the surface of the paper over with a brush, and put the potted hare in a very cool place, to be kept for use, as occasion squires. **Note.—Any kind of game or other meats, treated in this manner, will keep good for months. No. 944.—POTTED BEEF, SPICED. Cure a piece of gravy-beef, weighing about three pounds, as directed for curing pressed beef, No. 393, using the same ingredients in proportion to the present quantity of meat; and, at the end of ten days, cut up the beef into four-ounce pieces, and put these in a stew. pan with two quarts of water, two cloves of garlic, two bay-leaves, thyme, basil, winter savory and marjoram, in small quantities; a dozen cloves, a blade of mace, twenty HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 403 black peppercorns, and a small spoonful of celery-seeds; put the lid on, and set the whole to stew very gently over a slow fire for two hours. Strain the liquor into a basin, and first chop and then pound the beef in a mortar, until reduced to a smooth pulp; add the liquor (previously boiled down with four ounces of good glaze to the value of half a pint); pound all together again with half a pound of clarified butter added, and use this to fill up small pots, which are to be covered in with clarified butter. No. 945.—POTTED LOBSTER. Remove all the meat, pith, and coral, from a fresh- boiled lobster, and pound it in a mortar until reduced to a smooth pulp; then add a teaspoonful of anchovy, a pinch of cayenne, a little powdered mace, and four ounces of clarified butter; pound all together thoroughly; put it into pots; smooth over the surface; cover in with cla- rified butter, and keep it in a cool place. Note.—Another way—which some may prefer—is to pound only one-half of the lobster, while the remainder is cut up into small squares, and mixed in with the preparation. The only objection to this method is, that people are apt to be tempted to swallow the relish without sufficient mastication to render it di- gestible. No. 946.—POTTED SHRIMPS. Pick all the tails free from shells from a quart of fresh-boiled shrimps; pound the shells in a mortar with four ounces of clarified butter, a small blade of mace, a teaspoonful of anchovy, and a pinch of cayenne; put this in a stewpan with a little bruised lobster spawn, and stir it over the fire for six or eight minutes; rub it through a coase hair sieve; add the tails to this prepara- tion ; make all hot together, and use it to fill small pots with ; cover in with clarified butter, and keep them in cool place for use. Note.—Prawns are excellent, treated in the same way 2 r 2 104 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 947.-POTTED BLOATERS Cut off the heads and tails from six f Yarmouth-bloaters ; immerse them in scaldi to remove the skins; take out the backbones them in a stewpan with six ounces of clarifi a bit of mace, a teaspoonful of anchovy, and cayenne; simmer all together over a slow fil minutes ; pound in a mortar, rub through hair sieve, and use this preparation to fill s which must be covered in with clarified b kept in a cool place for use. Note. —Smoked salmon or dried haddocks, the same manner as bloaters, will furnish oth relishes for the breakfast and tea table. atau ilgai SIT DITA No. 948.-AROMATIC HERBACEOUS SEAS Take of nutmegs and mace one ounce each and peppercorns two ounces of each, one oun bay-leaves, three ounces of basil, the same of two ounces of winter savory, and three ounce half an ounce of cayenne-pepper, the same lemon-peel, and two cloves of garlic; all tl dients must be well pulverized in a mortar through a fine wire sieve, and put away in bottles for use. No. 948A.—HOW TO FRY PARSLEY Let the parsley be picked free from stal and trimmed, placed in a wire basket, and plenty of hot frying fat; and afterwards d dried before the fire. 104 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 947.—POTTED BLOATERS Cat off the heads and tails from six fresh-cured Yarmouth-bloaters ; immerse them in scalding water, to remove the skins; take out the backbones, and put them in a stewpan with six ounces of clarified butter, a bit of mace, a teaspoonful of anchovy, and a pinch of cayenne; simmer all together over a slow fire for ten minutes ; pound in a mortar, rub through a coarse hair sieve, and use this preparation to fill small pots, which must be covered in with clarified butter, and kept in a cool place for use. Note.--Smoked salmon or dried haddocks, treated in the same manner as bloaters, will furnish other delicate relishes for the breakfast and tea table. No. 948.—AROMATIC HERBACEOUS SEASONING. Take of nutmegs and mace one ounce each, of cloves and peppercorns two ounces of each, one ounce of dried bay-leaves, three ounces of basil, the same of marjoram, two ounces of winter savory, and three ounces of thyme, half an ounce of cayenne-pepper, the same of grated lemon-peel, and two cloves of garlic; all these ingre- dients must be well pulverized in a mortar, and sifted through a fine wire sieve, and put away in dry corked bottles for use. No. 948a.—HOW TO FRY PARSLEY. Let the parsley be picked free from stalks, washed and trimmed, placed in a wire basket, and dipped in plenty of hot frying fat; and afterwards drained and dried before the fire. UVUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASEISTANT. 100 CHAPTER XXXI. DIFFERENT KINDS OF PASTE. No. 949.—HOT-WATER-PASTE FOR RAISED PIES. Put a pound of flour on the table, spread it out with the back of the hand so as to form a hollow in the centre, put in an ounce of salt, and half a pint of hot water with four ounces of dissolved butter; mix all to- gether with the hand into a firm paste; work it com- pactly with both hands, roll it up in a cloth, and put it in a warm stewpan for use. No. 950.—COLD-WATER-PASTE FOR RAISED PIES. Prepare a pound of flour with a hollow in the centre, add half an ounce of salt, four ounces of butter, and half a pint of water; mix the whole into a firm compact paste. No. 951.—SHORT-PASTE. To a pound of flour add the yolks of two eggs, half a pound of butter, half an ounce of salt, and a gill and a half of water ; mix all together into a firm smooth paste. No. 952.—LIGHT-PASTE. Spread a pound of flour on the table with a hollow in the centre, add one egg, half an ounce of salt, twelve ounces of butter, and a gill and a half of water; mix together lightly without working the butter into the paste; it must then be rolled out two feet in length by 406 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND ten inches wide, folded in three equal lengths, and then, after rolling the paste out in this way three times more, it will be ready for use; it will thus have received what is termed four turns. This kind of paste is well adapted for covering meat-pies, and fruit-tarts. No. 953.—TART-PASTE. Spread a pound of flour on the table with a hollow in the centre ; add half a pound of butter, three ounces of sugar, one egg, half an ounce of salt, and a gill of water; mix and work the paste into a smooth compact body. No. 954.—NOUILLES-PASTE. To one pound of flour add four eggs, an ounce of butter, half an ounce of salt, and a dessert-spoonful of water; mix all together into a very firm compact smooth paste. No. 955.--ALMOND-PASTE. Scald eight ounces of Jordan almonds, and remove their hulls; wash and dry them in a cloth, and then pound them in a mortar with four ounces of sugar and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water; rub this through a fine wire sieve, and having put the paste into a copper sugar-boiler (see Adams' Illustrations), with a wooden spoon stir this over the fire until it ceases to adhere to the sides of the pan, and then place it on a slab; add the white of an egg, an ounce of flour, and six ounces of finely-sifted sugar; mix all this into a fum paste, and use it for the purpose of lining what are termed bon- bon tartlets. No. 956.—CROQUANTE-PASTE. To half a pound of the foregoing paste add half a pound of flour, three yolks of eggs, four ounces of but- ter, and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water. Use this paste for making thin biscuits, to be cut out with fancy cutters; and after being baked in a slack oven, upon greased baking-sheets, they may be served plain, or iced over with sugar. 408 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 959.—PRESERVED WINDSOR BEANS. These must be gathered when scarcely half grown, and treated in the same way as peas. A sprig of green winter savory should be added to each box of beans. No 960.—CUCUMBERS FOR SAUCE. Split, peel, remove the seeds, and cut the cucumbers in inch pieces, and when all are finished, throw in some salt--at the rate of two ounces to the pound of cucum- bers; move them together for a few minutes, and allow them to steep in the salt for four hours, to extract the water: they must then be drained, and tilled into the tin boxes; fill up with boiled water, solder them down, and boil them in the usual way for half an hour. No. 961.— PRESERVED YOUNG CARROTS. Turn the carrots in their own shape, and as you do so, throw them into hot water; when all are ready, put them in a stewpan with water enough to cover them; add fresh butter in the proportion of an ounce to the pound of carrots, and salt to season; boil the carrots in this till half done, and then arrange them neatly in tin boxes; fill up with their own liquor, solder down, boil for half an hour, and put them away in the cool. No. 962.—PRESERVED MUSHROOMS. Choose firm button-mushrooms for this purpose; wash them well, and put them into the boxes, and immediately fill them up with the following liquid :—to every quart of water add four ounces of butter, an ounce of salt, and the juice of three lemons; boil for two minutes, and finish as directed above. The boxes are to be soldered down, and boiled for a quarter of an hour. No. 963.—PRESERVED TRUFFLES. During the months of December and January, English truffles are at their best; and as they may be bought at HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 409 about one-fifth of the cost of French truffles, it will be evident that economy will readily suggest the propriety of preserving a few for gala days. The best means to attain that end is to attend to the following directions : —thoroughly wash so as to entirely remove all dirt and grit from the truffles, and then peel them very thinly ; put them into dry bottles with large necks; add a table- spoonful of water, a saltspoonful of salt, and a good sprig of thyme to each bottle; cork tight, and tie down securely with wire or string; boil for half an hour, and when the bottles are cold, wax over the corks. No. 964.—DRIED HERBS. All herbs used for culinary purposes, intended to be dried for winter use, should be tied up in handful branches, and laid upon sheets of paper to dry in the sun, and when perfectly dry, should be tied up in paper bags, and kept for use in a dry place. No. 965.—PRESERVED ARTICHOKES. Young quick-grown artichokes only, are fit for pre- serving; their leaves should be pulled off without tearing or in any way injuring the pithy part, or, as it is familiarly termed, the bottom : these must then be peeled or turned so as to remove all the rough green which covers them, and then thrown into a pan contain- ing water with some vinegar; and when all are finished, put them into a stewpan with water enough to make them swim; two ounces of butter to a quart of water, and salt to season ; add the juice of two lemons, and boil gently till the artichokes are three-parts done; they are then to be put into their tin boxes, filled up with their own liquor, soldered down, and after being boiled for twenty minutes, are to be put away in a cool place. 412 THE COOK'A QUIDE, AND capsicums; the same spices, &c., are to be added to the vinegar, and also Durham mustard, and turmeric or curry powder, in the relative proportions of one ounce of mustard and one ounce of curry powder to each quart of vinegar. In all other particulars, follow the direc- tions for mixed pickles. No. 971.—REMOULADE OF CUCUMBERS. Peel the cucumbers, split them in four, remove the seeds, and divide the strips into two-inch lengths; put these in a pan with salt at the rate of one ounce to a pound of cucumbers, and allow them to steep for four hours, stirring them occasionally; they must then be drained on sieves to get rid of all moisture, and put in the sun to dry for an hour ; after which they are to be mixed in sufficient Prince of Wales's sauce, No. 81, to bind them together, and put away in small jars well covered over with bladders, and kept in a very cold place. Note.---This is without exception the most delicate kind of pickle it is possible to make. LADIES' DELIGHT. Put eight ounces of chopped apples, eight ounces of chopped onions, and two ounces of chopped chillies into a jar; boil one pint of white-wine vinegar with a des- sert-spoonful of salt; pour it to these ingredients; mix, and when cold, use the pickle to be eaten with cold meats, &c. No. 972.--MINCEMEAT. First, prepare your spices in manner and proportions as follows: viz., to four ounces of cinnamon add two ounces of nutmegs, four ounces of cloves, two ounces of ground ginger, one ounce of coriander-seeds, the rind of twelve oranges and of twelve lemons rubbed on sugar, and scraped off. Pound and sift the spices, mix these with the orange and lemon sugars, and keep this well corked in dry bottles. The next thing is to procure four HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 413 pounds of stoned raisins, four pounds of cleaned currants, two pounds of Eleme figs, two pounds of preserved gin- ger, four pounds of mixed candied-peel, six pounds of coarse chopped beef-suet, four pounds of tripe, and four pounds of boiled saltbeef chopped fine together, and six pounds of peeled apples, to be chopped with the raisins and currants; the candied-peel is to be shred small : mix all together on a clean table, adding six pounds of moist sugar and the spices; and when thoroughly mixed, put the mincemeat into stone jars; and two days after, pour into each its fair proportion of two bottles of brandy and two bottles of port. The addition of four ounces of pounded bitter-almonds would be an improvement. Note.-- To those who consider this a too large quantity of mincemeat for the economy of their family, I would suggest that, by taking one-half or a fourth part of the relative proportions of the foregoing ingredients, they may produce a more satisfactory result, without dete- rioration to the excellence of the mincemeat. THE COOK'S GOLDE. AND CHAPTER XXXIV. COOKERY FOR INVALIDS AND INFANTS. No. 973.-BEEF TEA. Procure a pound of fresh-killed lean beef, cut either from the rump or gravy-piece; cut this in slices, pare away every particle of fat, and cut the slices of beef into very small squares or mince; put this in a clean stewpan with a quart of cold water, and set it on the fire to boil ; remembering that, as soon as the scum rises to the sur- face, it should be removed with a spoon, and a very small quantity of salt and cold water should be poured in at the edge of the stewpan, in order to facilitate the rising of the albumen in the form of scum. Unless due precaution be taken to effect the skimming satis- factorily, the broth, instead of being clear and bright, becomes thick and turgid ; and consequently presents an unappetising aspect to the eye of the patient, whose debilitated state requires perhaps something which has at least an inviting appearance to tempt him to partake of any food whatever. When the beef tea has boiled gently for about half an hour, and has become reduced to about half its original quantity, let it be strained through a clean sieve or nap- kin into a basin, and serve some of it in a cup, with dry toast, and salt, on a tray. Note.—. The foregoing is intended for patients whose ease may require comparatively weak food; in cases HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 415 where food of a more stimulating character is needed in the form of extract of beef, it will be necessary to double the quantity of meat; and when it happens that beef tea is required in a hurry, the meat should be chopped as fine as sausage-meat, put in a stewpan with boiling water, stirred on the fire for ten minutes, and then strained through a napkin, for use. A small glass of old Madeira, or of Amontillado, added to beef tea, proves an excellent restorative. No. 974.—MUTTON BROTH. Take a pound and a half of scrag of mutton, chop it into small pieces, and put it into a stewpan with rather better than a quart of water; set it to boil, skim it well; add a little salt, and two ounces of washed pearl barley; boil gently for an hour; strain off the broth through a sieve into a basin, and serve a teacupful with dry toast cut in fingers. A turnip, and half a head of celery may be added to give flavour, where vegetables are not objectionable. No. 975.—VEAL TEA. Take a pound of fresh veal cutlet, pare away all fat, cut the veal in small mince, and put it on to boil in a very clean stewpan with a pint of water, and a very small quantity of salt; allow the tea to boil gently for three-quarters of an hour, and then strain it through a sieve into a basin. This broth is excellent for infants; a spoonful of arrowroot, sago, or tapioca added, and boiled gently for ten minutes, renders this food more substantial. Veal tea and new milk, or asses' milk, in equal parts, proves beneficial to infants brought up by hand. No. 976.—CHICKEN BROTH. Draw the chicken, scald the legs, and remove the cuticle which covers them; cut up the chicken in members or joints, leaving the breast whole; put the 416 THE COOK's Gu:DE, AND pieces of chicken in a very clean stewpa:,, with a quart of water, a little salt and two ounces of washed rice, to boil very gently for an hour; and when done, serve the broth with or without rice, as may be deemed most proper or agreeable. No. 977.--CHICKEN PANADA. The white meat from the breast of the chicken which has already served for making the broth inay be used for this purpose; yet it is time that, when prepared with the breast of a fresh-roasted chicken, the panada is not only more savoury to the palate, but it is also more nutritious. Soak the crumb of a French roll, or a few rusks, in hot milk, and put this in a clean stewpan with the meat from the chicken previously reduced to a smooth pulp by chopping and pounding it in a mortar; add a little chicken broth, and stir the panada over the fire for ten minutes, and serve with some warm chicken broth separately, in order to give the infant alternate spoonfuls of each. No. 978.—GAME PANADA. This is prepared in the same manner as the fore- going, substituting game—such as young pheasant, or partridge, or rabbit—for chicken. No. 979.—PECTORAL BROTH. Put a cut-up chicken into a stewpan with a quart of water, a cabbage-lettuce, a small bunch of balm and burrage, a small handful of chervil, three ounces of prepared Iceland moss, half an ounce of picked gum- arabic, and a little salt; stir over the fire until it boils, and then remove it to the side to continue gently boiling for an hour. It must then be strained into a basin for use. This broth, when cold, becomes gelatinized; it may be given warm, or eaten as a jelly. The balm, burrage, and chervil are sweet herbs, and HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 417 may be obtained at Covent Garden, or in any gentle- man's garden. The prepared moss is to be had only at Savory and Moore's, Bond Street. Note.—The use of this pectoral is efficacious in pul- monary diseases. No. 980.—MUCILAGINOUS BROTH. Put a cut-up chicken and a pound of veal cutlet and a calf's foot into a stewpan with three pints of water; boil and skim; then add a dozen crayfish, and a pint of garden snails—both bruised raw in a mortar; add also a handful of balm, burrage, and chervil, and three ounces of prepared Iceland moss, ind a small quantity of salt. The broth must boil very gently by the side of the fire for about two hour, without much reduction ; and when done, is to be strained into a basin for use. Note.--This is a powerful demulcent, and is much in use in France, in cases of phthisis, catarrh, bronchitis, &c. No. 980a.—DR. WRATISLAW'S STRENGTHENING EXTRACT OF BEEF. Take one pound of lean beef and cut the same into small pieces, say half an inch square; place them in a jar with a gill of water, and then put it in the oven for half an hour, after which time take it out and add one pint of water, replacing it in the oven for an hour and a half; when, after freeing it from its grease, and strain- ing it through a muslin, it will be fit for use. No. 981.—INVIGORATING BROTH. Cut up a partridge into joints, and a pound of beef- steak in small collops, and fry all brown with a little butter in a sautapan; cut up a red carrot, and two heads of celery in very small dice, and fry these with two ounces of raw ham, and a little butter, in a stewpan; add thereto the partridge and the beef, a sprig of thyme, and a little salt; fill up with three pints of 2 I HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 419 Note.—Milk of almonds mixed with water is ruseful in allaying fever, &c. No. 984.—ISINGLASS JELLY. Put one ounce of isinglass into a clean stewpan with two ounces of sugar and half a pint of water; stir this on the fire till it boils, and set it by the side to continue boiling very gently for twenty minutes, adding occa- sionally a very little cold water to facilitate the throw- ing up impurities in the form of scum; this must be removed, and the jelly strained through a napkin into a basin; add a little white-wine, or the juice of an orange, and pour the jelly into glasses, and set them in ice, or in a cold place, until the jelly has become firm; and then it will be an agreeable offering to the sick patient needing delicate food. No. 985.—RICE-WATER. Wash three ounces of rice in several waters, and then put it into a very clean stewpan with a quart of water and one ounce of raisins; boil gently for half an hour, strain through a coarse hair sieve into a jug, and when cold, drink plentifully. The comforting powers of rice water, when properly prepared, are too generally known and appreciated to render it necessary for me to point out when it is most proper to administer this simple remedy. No. 986.—BARLEY-WATER. Two ounces of pearl barley boiled in a quart of water for twenty minutes, and afterwards allowed to stand until it becomes cold; it must then be strained through a sieve into a jug, and a small piece of lemon-peel added. No. 987.—TOAST AND WATER. Boil a quart of water, and pour it upon a good-sized piece of crumb of bread which has been well toasted 2 E 2 420 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND before a clear fire until it becomes very crisp, and of a dark-brown colour; allow this to steep for half an hour, and then decant it into a water-bottle. No. 988.-EAU SUCREE. To a pint of cold spring-water add an ounce of lump- sugar, and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water; mix, This is a very refreshing drink in summer, and is, be- sides, perfectly harmless. No. 989.-ARROWROOT. To half a pint of boiled water, add rather better than half an ounce of Bermuda arrowroot, previously mixed in a teacup with a wineglassful of cold water; stir this on the fire until it boils for a few minutes, pour it into a basin, flavour with a little sugar and a small spoonful of brandy, or a little red or white wine, or else with a little orange-flower water; or, if more agreeable, a very small piece of orange or lemon peel may be boiled with the arrowroot. No. 990.—TO PREPARE SAGO. Boil two ounces of pearl sago in a pint of water for twenty minutes, and flavour it as directed for arrowroot. Sago may also be boiled in either mutton, chicken, or veal broth, or in beef tea. No. 991.–TAPIOCA. This is prepared similarly to sago. No. 992.-TO MAKE GRUEL. Take of Robinson's Patent Groats one tablespoonful mixed in a wineglassful of cold water, and having poured this into a stewpan containing a pint of boiling water, stir the gruel on the fire to boil for ten minutes ; pour it into a basin, add salt and butter, or if more agreeable, rum, brandy, or wine, and sugar. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 421 No. 992A.-BROWN AND POLSON'S SOUFFLE PUDDING. Put six ounces of Brown and Polson's patent corn-flour into a stewpan with eight ounces of pounded sugar, and mix these smoothly together with a quart of milk; add four ounces of fresh butter, a pinch of salt, and a few drops of essence of vanilla; stir briskly on the fire until it boils; and then work in vigorously six yolks of eggs, and the six whites whisked into a firm froth are to be lightly incorporated with the batter, which must then be poured into a slightly-buttered pie-dish, and baked in a moderately-heated oven for about half an hour, sugared over the surface, and sent to table imme- diately. No. 992B.--A LIGHT PUDDING FOR INVALIDS. To two ounces of Brown and Polson, add two ounces of pounded sugar, three gills of milk, one ounce of but- ter, a pinch of salt, and a teaspoonful of orange-flower water; stir briskly on the fire until it boils; then work in three yolks of eggs, and the three whites whisked firm ; pour this into a buttered mould or pudding-basin, and steam it in the usual way. No. 992c.-INFANTS' FOOD. To one dessert-spoonful of Brown and Polson, mixed with a wineglassful of cold water, add half a pint of boiling water; stir over the fire for five minutes; sweeten lightly, and feed the baby; but if the infant is being brought up by hand, this food should then be mixed with milk,-pot otherwise, as the use of two different milks would be injurious. No. 9920.-SAVOURY CUSTARD. To one dessert-spoonful of Brown and Polson, add rather better than half a pint of good beef-tea; mix and stir over the fire for five minutes, and then administer a light yet invigorating kind of food to the debilitated 422 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND stomach, which in its results will prove far more satisfactory than any preparation known. Note. This delicate custard may also be advantage- ously prepared with broths made from mutton, game, or poultry : for the correct preparation of which, see other parts of this work. No. 992E.-SAVOY SPONGE. Put six yolks of eggs into a basin ; add eight ounces of pounded sugar, a small pinch of salt, and a few drops of essence of lemon; work these together with a wooden spoon for ten minutes; then add four ounces of Brown and Polson's corn-flour, and also the six whites whisked into a firm froth; these must be lightly incorporated ; next, gently pour the batter into a mould or tin, which must have been previously very thinly spread smooth with clarified butter, and coated with finely-sifted sugar; bake the cake in a very moderately-heated oven, and when done, turn it out of its mould. No. 992f.—COOLING POSSET FOR A COLD. To one ounce of Brown and Poison, add half a pint of sherry, two ounces of honey, and a few drops of essence of cinnamon; stir over the fire for five minutes ; drink this warm the last thing before going to bed. No. 992g.—MEHL-PRIE, OR GERMAN THICK MILK. To two ounces of Brown and Polson, add one pint of milk, two ounces of loaf-sugar, and a few drops of brandy or vanilla ; stir the whole over the fire for ten minutes, and pour it into custard-cups; strew some ratafias on their surfaces, and serve with the supper- tray. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 423 CHAPTER XXXV. JELLIES AND JAMS. No. 993—RED-CURRANT JELLY. To twelve pounds of ripe red currants add four pounds of ripe white currants; put these into a copper pre- serving-pan; add a quart of water, braise them with the hands, and as you get a handful of stalks, throw them away; when the fruit is bruised, stir it on the fire until it begins to boil, and then press it in one of Adams' Fruit Pressers (see Adams' Illustrations). Weigh the juice, and for every pound add three-quarters of a pound of sugar; and when the sugar is thoroughly dis- solved in the currant juice, stir it on the fire till it boils; skim it well; slacken the fire a little to prevent the jelly from boiling over, and when you find that it hangs and drapes on the edge of the skimmer as you hold it up out of the boiling jelly, it may then be removed from the fire, skimmed, poured into gallipots, and put away in the larder for two days, to become thoroughly set: at the end of this time the pots are to be covered with small rounds of white paper dipped in brandy, and again tied down with another covering of paper or of bladder : the latter keeps out the damp. Note. Remember that preserved jellies and jams must be kept in a dry, cool atmosphere. 424 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 994.—BLACK-CURRANT JELLY. This is made in the same way as red-currant jelly, with the exception that in the present case it is neces. sary to put a pound of sugar for every pound of black- currant juice. No. 995.-- RASPBERRY JELLY. To twelve pounds of raspberries add four pounds of white currants; bruise and boil the whole in the usual way; press the juice out, and to every pound of juice add three-quarters of a pound of sugar; boil as directed for red-currant jelly, and finish in the same manner. No. 996.—CURRANT AND RASPBERRY JELLY. Six pounds of red currants, three of white, three of raspberries ; proceed as for red-currant jelly. No. 997.—WHITE-CURRANT JELLY. To twelve pounds of ripe white currants add a quart of water; bruise and scald the fruit in the preserving- pan; press out the juice, and to every pound add one pound of fine loaf-sugar; boil over a sharp fire, with the pan scarcely half full in order that he jelly may not be on long enough to gain colour. This jelly is never very bright. No. 998.—APPLE JELLY. Slice up twelve pounds of grey russets into a pre- serving-pan containing five quarts of boiling water and the juice of two lemons; boil this on a sharp fire, stir- ring occasionally until reduced to a pulp; it must then be thrown into jelly-bags to filter bright; pouring back the three first passings. When all the juice has passed through the bag, weigh it, and to every twenty ounces of apple-juice add one pound of the finest loaf-sugar; boil, skim, and as soon as you find that the jelly hangs in webs on the edge of the skimmer as it is held up ont HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 425 of the boiling jelly, it will be done, and must be re- moved from the fire, poured into pots, and set aside to become cold: finish in the ordinary way. Note.—Apple jelly prepared in a small quantity, and poured into dinner-plates, about the sixth of an inch thick, when set firm and cold, serves to cover all sorts of compotes of fruits for dessert; and adds very consider- ably to their brilliancy. No. 999.—GOOSEBERRY JAM. Put the gooseberries on to boil in a preserving-pan with about a quart of water, stirring them with a wooden spoon, and as soon as they are dissolved, rub them through a coarse hair sieve upon a large dish, using a gallipot for the purpose of working the pulp through the sieve. For every pound of pulp calculate twelve ounces of sugar. Put the sugar in a preserving-pan with water enough to cover it; and boil it to the pearling degree; then add the gooseberry pulp, and stir the jam till it is done; this will be ascertained when it begins to hang to the edge of the spoon, as it is lifted out; it must then be removed from the fire, and put into pots imme- diately. No. 999A.-RASPBERRY JAM.* To every pound of pickled raspberries, calculate twelve ounces of sugar; this must be boiled as in the preceding case, and the fruit being added, must be stirred on the fire until the raspberries are entirely dissolved ; by that time the jam will be sufficiently boiled; it must then be removed into gallipots or jars. No. 1000.—DAMSON JAM. at twelve pounds of damsons on to boil in a pre- Ag-pan with a quart of water, stirring with a spoon until they are dissolved; they must then ad through a sieve, on a dish. To every pound berry Jam is made in the same manner as raspberry. 426 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND of pulp allow a pound of sugar; the sugar must first be boiled to the pearling degree, and then, after adding the pulp, stir the jam until sufficiently reduced according to the usual test, and put away in gallipots. No. 1001.- APRICOT JAM. Split and slice up twelve pounds of ripe apricots; break the stones, extract the kernels, scald and add them to the fruit. Boil twelve pounds of sugar to the pearling degree; throw in the fruit, stir until entirely dissolved, and when tested satisfactorily with the skim- mer, remove the jam from the fire, and put it away in pots. Peaches, greengages, magnum-bonum plums, and all other plums are to be treated in the same way. No. 1002.—APPLE MARMALADE. See Apple Charlotte. No. 1003.—ORANGE MARMALADE. Split the oranges in quarters, use a sharp knife to cut out the fruity pulp from each quarter without any of the white pith left on it; and, as this is effected, pick out all the pips, put the fruit into a basin, and the quarters of peel into a largo pan containing water; and when this is completed, boil the quarters of peel in water until they are nearly soft to the touch; they must then be drained, and put to soak in cold water for at least twelve hours, and are then to be drained upon sieves for two hours at least to rid them from all un- necessary moisture; after which they must be cut up in shreds. Next, weigh the shred peel and the interior fruit kept in reserve, and for every pound of these allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar; boil the sugar to the pearling degree, then add the fruit sliced very thin, and the shred peel ; boil for twenty minutes, stirring the whole time. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 427 CHAPTER XXXVI. BON-BONS. No. 1004.- BURNT ALMONDS. Rub half a pound of Jordan almonds in a cloth to rid them from from dust, &c., and put them to get warm in the screen. Boil three-quarters of a pound of sugar nearly to the snap; add a spoonful of vanilla sugar, and a few drops of prepared cochineal; withdraw the sugar from the fire, throw in the almonds, stir altogether with a wooden spoon, detaching the sugar from the bottom and sides of the sugar-boiler; and as soon as the almonds become covered with the sugar, turn all out upon a wire sieve, and cover over with paper for five minutes ; at the end of this time, pick out the charged almonds from the sugar; put this back into the sugar- boiler with just enough water to dissolve it, and having boiled it to the snap, again throw in the almonds, and give them an ther charge, by stirring them carefully, so as to allow them to take as much sugar as possible, keep- ing them separate ; and when this is accomplished, turn them out upon the wire sieve; again pick the almonds from the sugar, and put this into the boiler with a little water, and a few more drops of cochineal, and having boiled it nearly to the snap, stir the almonds in it to give them another charge of sugar, and turn them out upon the sieve to cool; the burnt-almonds by this time, having received three charges, should be double 428 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND their original size : they may be served in their natural state, or else wrapped in cossack papers. No. 1005.—BURNT PISTACHIO PRALINES. Fresh-imported pistachio-kernels should be selected for this purpose, as they then still retain their beautiful pinky-purple bloom, while the interior of the kernel is of a bright, delicate green. For the preparation of these, proceed as directed for burnt-almonds. No. 1006.—ROSE DROPS. Put half a pound of coarse-sifted sugar into a sugar- boiler, with one ounce of water, a few drops of cochi. neal, and a few drops of essence of roses ; stir this with a small wooden spoon on the fire until the composition has become liquified, and is on the point of simmering; the sugar must then be stirred a few minutes off the fire, and dropped from the beak or spout of the pan, cutting off the small drops the size of a threepenny-piece upon very slightly-oiled baking-sheets; and when cold, will be easily removed with a thin knife. White drops, or pastilles, are made in the same man- ner, suppressing the cochineal, and adding a few drops of peppermint, instead of rose-essence; they may also be varied by using different essences and harmless colours, such as orange-zest, coffee, or half an ounce of grated chocolate. No. 1007.—STRAWBERRY DROPS. To eight ounces of coarse-sifted sugar add two ounces of scarlet strawberries; stir this on the fire until the composition becomes heated almost to the simmering point, and then proceed to lay out the drops as directed in the preceding number. Note.—Fruit pastilles, or drops, may be prepared in great variety, by using two ounces of the thick juice of any kind of fruit added to the eight ounces of sugar. ROUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 429 No. 1008.—PUNCH DROPS. To eight ounces of coarse-sifted sugar add some orange-zest, and a small wineglassful of rum; proceed in the usual way. No. 1009.—CHOCOLATE BON-BONS. To half a pound of course-sifted sugar add two ounces of the finest French chocolate dissolved in a wineglass- ful of water in a separate boiler or stewpan, and after mixing this with the sugar in its boiler, stir on the fire until it arrives at almost simmering heat; and lay out the drops of the size of a sixpenny-piece. No. 1010.—COFFEE BON-BONS. To half a pound of sugar add a small cup of very strong coffee; boil to the snap, and then stir in a very little more coffee, and continue working the composition at the side of the pan with a wooden spoon for about five minutes, and as soon as it begins to thicken, pour it out upon an oiled baking-sheet, and allow it to be about the sixth of an inch thick ; and when it becomes set- and before it cools, with the back of the blade of a knife, mark it out in oblong squares, measuring one inch by half an inch; when the bon-bons are quite cold, they will easily be snapped apart. No. 1011.—LEMON CARAMEL. Boil a pound of sugar to the snap, and then continue stirring it over a very slow fire until it gradually as- sumes a very light-brown tint; then add by degrees a small quantity of any kind of liqueur or essence, or fruit juice, or coffee, &c.; work together, and pour out the com position on a slightly-oiled baking-sheet; mark, or stamp out the caramel with a knife as directed in the foregoing number, and when cold, separate them. It is must proper to use oil of almonds for this purpose 130 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 1012.—CHERRY RINGS. Put a pound of the finest loaf-sugar into a boiler with just enough water to dissolve it, and while it is boiling, be careful to skim it thoroughly; add a teaspoonful of wood-vinegar, and a few drops of cochineal; boil to the snap, and then, after the first heat has subsided, pour the sugar out upon a clean marble slab previously very slightly oiled with oil of almonds, and continue work- ing the sugar with two dinner-knives, one in each hand, so as to bring the bulk constantly together in a piled-up form; and when the sugar has thrown off its heat sufficiently to enable you to handle it without burning yourself, very slightly oil your fingers, gather up the sugar in your hands, and pull it out to half a yard's length; join the ends together, and keep on stretching out the sugar in this manner until it assumes a bright, glassy, delicate-pink surface, and then, as it is pulled out in narrow strips, cut these about three inches long; twist and join the ends together, so as to form them into rings. Note.—In order to be successful in this operation, it is essential to be perfectly collected, and very active. No. 1013.—BARLEY-SUGAR. Boil a pound of sugar to the snap; add a few drops of essence of lemon, and a teaspoonful of citric acid ; work the sugar on the slab with two knives, by merely lift- ing it together in a heap; and when sufficiently cooled to admit of its being handled, pull it out in six-inch lengths; twist these to resemble cord, and place them out of hand to cool. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BOTLER'S ASSISTANT. 431 CHAPTER XXXVII. AMERICAN DRINKS. No. 1014.—GIN-SLING. Put two slices of lemon, and three lumps of loaf-sugar into a tumbler, fill up to the brim with shaves of Wen- ham Lake ice; add a wineglassful of old gin; stir, and suck through a straw. Note.—I am afraid that very genteel persons will be exceedingly shocked at the words "suck through a straw ;" but when I tell them that the very act of imbibition through a straw prevents the gluttonous absorption of large and baneful quantities of drink, they will, I make no doubt, accept the vulgar precept for the sake of its protection against sudden inebriety. No. 1015.—BRANDY-SMASH. Put three slices of lemon in a tumbler with a few slices of pine-apple, add a dessert-spoonful of sifted sugar ; fill up with shaved Wenham Lake ice, or with any other clean ice; add a wineglass of brandy; mix, and drink devoutly. No. 1016.—COCK-TAIL. Put three lumps of sugar into a tumbler with a dessert- spoonful of Savory and Moore's essence of Jamaica- ginger, and a wineglassful of brandy; fill up with hot water. 132 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 1017.—SHERRY COBLER. Three slices of orange, a spoonful of coarse-sifted sugar, fill up the tumbler with shaved ice; add two glasses of cherry. No. 1018.—MINT JULEP. The thin rind of half an orange, the whole juice free from pips, and a sprig of green mint, a spoonful of sugar ; fill up the tumbler with shaves of ice; add a glass of gin and a glass of sherry. No. 1019.—EGG NOGG. Put two yolks of eggs into a goblet with a little grated nutmeg, a good spoonful of brown sugar, and a teaspoonful of grated ginger; make hot a pint of ale with a bit of cinnamon and a glass of rum; pour gradu- ally to the yolks of eggs, &c., whisking the while with a wire whisk; serve hot, and frothing. No. 1020.—SLEEPER. To a gill of old rum add one ounce of sugar, two yolks of eggs, and the juice of half a lemon; boil half a pint of water with six cloves, six coriander-seeds, and a bit of cinnamon, whisk all together, and strain them into a tumbler. No. 1021.—INSTITUTION CUP. A pint of champagne, a gill of pine-apple syrup, a gill of strawberry syrup, an orange cut in slices, a glass of brandy, and a tumbler of shaved ice; shake together, and strain short into tumblers. No. 1022.—PINE-APPLE JULEP. Peel, slice, and cut up a ripe pine-apple into a glass bowl, add the juice of two oranges, a gill of raspberry syrup, a gill of maraschino, a gill of old gin, a bottle of sparkling moselle, and about a pound of Wenham Lake ice in. r.baves; mix, and serve in flat glasses. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 135 CHAPTER XXXVIII. ENGLISH AND FOREIGN SUMMER DRINKS. No. 1031.—ORANGEADE. Steep the thin rind of three oranges in a pint of syrup (made with twelve ounces of sugar and a pint of water); squeeze the juice of twelve oranges through a clean hair sieve into a jug; add the syrup and three pints of spring-water; mix, and cool in ice for an hour. When about to use the orangeade, decant it in cut- glass bottles, or jugs, and hand round in large claret glasses. No. 1032.—LEMONADE. The juice of six lemons, the thin rind of two, a pint and a quarter of syrup of 32 degrees strength, by Adams' syrup-gauge (see Illustrations), and three pints of spring-water; mix in a pitcher imbedded in ice, and after it has stood for a couple of hours, strain through a silk sieve, and serve as above. Note.- A cheaper kind of lemonade is obtained by slicing two lemons into a jug, adding four ounces of sugar, and pouring a quart of boiling water on them. No. 1033.- CHERRY WATER. Pick two pounds of ripe red cherries, bruise them through a coarse hair sieve into a large basin, or upon a dish; pound the stones in a mortar, add this to the juice, throw half a pint of spring-water on the sieve in 2 F 2 436 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND order to avoid wasting the juice; add a pint of syrup. mix, and when the whole has steeped for a couple of hours, filter through a hair sieve resting upon two sticks placed across a basin, putting hack through the sieve that which passes first until it runs bright; and when all has drained through, add half a pint of spring-water in order to wash the dregs; and as soon as this also has passed, mix all together; add a few drops of cochineal if needed, and a quart of spring-water. Cool in ice for an hour and an half. No. 1034.—CURRANT WATER. Pick a pound of red currants, and a punnet of rasp- berries, into a basin; add half a pint of water, bruise all together with a wooden spoon; put this into a small pre- serving-pan with half a pound of bruised loaf-sugar; stir this on the fire till it begins to simmer, and then pour it into a hair sieve as in the preceding case; and when filtered, add three gills of syrup and three pints of water; mix; freeze or cool, and decant for service. No. 1035.—STRAWBERRY WATER. Bruise a pound of red strawberries with half a pound of finely-sifted sugar and half a pint of spring-water; filter this through a sieve into a basin; add a quart of spring-water, and the juice of a lemon; cool in the usual way. No. 1036.—ORGEATE, OR ALMOND MILK. Two ounces of Jordan almonds, half an ounce of bitter, scalded, freed from their bulls, washed, and pounded with a tablespoonful of orange-flower water, and two ounces of loaf-sugar; a few drops of water should be added at intervals while pounding, to prevent the almonds from becoming oily,—an accident to be avoided, as it would grease the milk; when the almonds are pulverised into a smooth creamy pulp, take this up silver clean basin, add a pint of spring-water, stir with a silver spoon, cover over with a plate, and allow the HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 437 whole to steep for a couple of hours; the milk may then be strained off, and, if possible, kept in ice; it must cer- tainly be kept in a very cool place, for otherwise it is liable to turn sour. Note.—When about to serve the orgeate, it should be mixed with equal proportions of water. No. 1037.—PINE-APPLE WATER. Peel, slice, and pound an eighteenpenny foreign pine, until well pulped ; take this up into a basin, pour in a pint of boiling syrup ; add the juice of a lemon, stir to- gether, cover over with a plate, and when the whole has steeped for a couple of hours, filter through a silk sieve, or beaver jelly-bag; add a quart of spring-water. No. 1038.—CLARET GRANITO. Prepare half the quantity of orangeade named in No. 1031 ; add a bottle of French claret; freeze as re- commended for granito. No. 1039.—SHERRY GRANITO. This is prepared similarly to the preceding, merely substituting lemon-ice for orange, and sherry for claret. No. 1040.—POMEGRANATE WATER.. Procure six pomegranates, and carefully remove the ruby pips from the hull of the fruit into a basin; and when this is effected, add twelve ounces of roughly- pounded sugar; thoroughly bruise all together; add a pint and a half of water, the juice of two lemons, and a few drops of cochineal; mix, and filter through a silk sieve, or beaver jelly-bag. The addition of a few drops of essence of elder-flowers is an improvement. No. 1041.—GIN PUNCH. Half a pint of old gin, a gill of maraschino, the juice of two lemons, the rind of half a lemon, four ounces of syrup, a quart bottle of German seltzer-water; ice well. 438 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 1042.—MILK PUNCH. Put the following ingredients into a very clean pit- cher: viz.,—the juice of six lemons, the rind of two, one pound of sugar, an eighteenpenny pine-apple—peeled, sliced, and pounded; six cloves, twenty coriander-seeds, a small stick of cinnamon, one pint of brandy, ditto of rum, a gill of rack, a breakfast-cup of strong-made green tea, and a quart of boiling water; the boiling water to be added last; cork this down to prevent evaporation, and allow these ingredients to steep for at least six hours ; then add a quart of hot milk, and the juice of two lemons; mix, and filter through a clean beaver jelly-bag; and when the punch has passed bright, put it away in clean tight-corked bottles. This punch is intended to be iced for drinking; either after turtle soup or other- wise. I confess that, in my opinion, a glass of genuine old madeira is far preferable after turtle to any cloying beverage—such as Roman punch for instance; but, east of Temple Bar, epicures seem to be of an opposite way of thinking in the matter 140 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 1046.—PINE-APPLE CREAM ICE. Peel, slice up, and boil about twelve ounces of pine in a gill of water, with eight ounces of sugar; pound the pieces of pine, mix them to their syrup, and rub this through a hair sieve; mix the pulp with a custard, as directed in the preceding case. No. 1047.—STRAWBERRY CREAM ICE. Bruise a pound of picked strawberries with eight ounces of sifted sugar, and rub this through a hair sieve; add the pulp to a pint of cream, and, if needed, a few drops of cochineal; freeze, and mould. No. 1048.—CURRANT AND RASPBERRY CREAM ICE Pick and bruise a pound of red currants and half a pound of raspberries, with ten ounces of loaf-sugar; stir this in a sugar-boiler on the fire until it begins to sim- mer, and then rub the whole through a hair sieve; mix the pulp with a pint of drouble cream; freeze and mould the ice. No. 1049.—GOOSEBERRY FOOL. Pick and boil a pound of green gooseberries in half a pint of water with ten ounces of sugar; rub this through a hair sieve, colour the pulp with a spoonful of spinach greening, No. 72; add a pint of double cream, a little grated nutmeg and lemon-peel; mix, freeze, and mould. Gooseberry fool is generally served in a glass bowl, or in custard cups or glasses. No. 1050.—COFFEE CREAM ICE. To eight yolks of eggs add a large cup of strong- -made coffee, a pint of boiled milk, and eight ounces of sugar; stir this over the fire until the eggs are set in 442 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND No. 1053.—ICED BISCUITS. The preparation for these is the same as for soufflés, and is to be poured into small paper-cases, which are to be iced in the cave imbedded in rough ice. No. 1054.—ICED BOMBE. For this purpose it is necessary to procure a bombe mould (see Adams' Illustrations), that is, a round mould formed of two half globes which fit into each other; or, failing this, any iced pudding-mould will suit as well. While the composition, the same as for soufflés, is in course of preparation, the mould must be placed ready in the ice, in order that when the cream is poured into it, it may be instantly acted upon by the refrigerating power of the ice; it must then be imbedded and thoroughly covered in with more ice mixed with salt and saltpetre. When about to serve, dip the mould in cold water, wipe it, and turn the bombe out upon a napkin. No. 1055.—LOVE'S CARTRIDGES. Procure eighteen ice-moulds, the interior of which is made to represent the form of a cartridge, measuring two and a half inches in length by one inch in dia- meter; whip a pint and a half of double cream quite firm; flavour this with two tablespoonfuls of strong vanilla sugar, and use it to fill the cartridge-moulds; put on the lids, and immerse them in ice for an hour : at the expiration of this time, remove them, one at a time, from the ice; dip one end in cold water to take off the lid; run a round wooden stick half an inch in dia- meter down the centre of the iced-cream, and fill up this hollow with grated chocolate; put the lid on again, and as the remainder are treated in the same way, set them in a fresh tub of prepared ice, which must be ready to receive them. When about to serve, turn out the cartridges from their moulds with cold water, and dish them up in a conical form, upon a lace-paper on a napkin. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 443 No. 1056.—TUTTIFRUTTI. Prepare the following ingredients : viz.,—one ounce of shred pistachios, ditto of dried cherries, ditto of citron, ditto of candied orange-peel, ditto of chocolate drops, all these fruits are to be cut in very small dice: prepare also two whites of eggs of meringue-paste, and half a pint of whipped cream. Make a liquid custard with ten yolks of eggs, a pint and a half of milk, and a pound of sugar; and when the custard has been set on the fire, and has become cold, proceed to freeze it firm, working it with the spatula occasionally; then add the meringue-paste, and a gill of maraschino, and a few drops of essence of cinnamon; work these in, twirling the freezer round the while; and as the ice sets again, add the fruit, and lastly the whipped cream; mould the ice in the usual way. No. 1057.—PLOMBIERES ICE. Make a liquid custard with the following igredients : viz.,—a pint and a half of boiled milk, six ounces of Jordan, and one ounce of bitter-almonds, well pulped in a mortar; six ounces of apricot jam, and ten yolks of eggs; stir the custard on the fire to set the yolks, and rub it through a hair sieve on a dish; and when cold, freeze the plombières, and mould it with some apricot jam in the centre. No. 1058.—ICED PUDDING A LA NESSELRODE. Prepare the following ingredients: viz.,—pick two ounces of sultana raisins, ditto of mixed candied-peel shred fine, one ounce of cleaned currants, four ounces of pine apple, and one ounce of angelica; put these ingredients in a basin with a gill of maraschino, and set them aside. Prepare a liquid custard with a pint of boiled milk, the syrup from the pine, a bruised stick of vanilla, twelve ounces of sugar, four ounces of chestnut farina (Crosse and Blackwell's), and ten yolks of eggs ; 444 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND set the custard over the fire, and rub it through a hair sieve. Freeze the custard in the usual way, and when set firm, add the fruit; freeze again, working the pud- ding with the spatula; and lastly, add half a pint of whipped cream : mould the pudding in an iced pudding mould (see Adams' Illustrations), and imbed it in ice for a couple of hours. When about to send to table, turn the pudding out on its dish, and serve separately a gill of whipped cream mixed with half a gill of maraschino. AQUARK KEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 445 CHAPTER XL. MEDICINAL DRINKS, &c. Ladies need feel no apprehension in the use of these medicinal drinks, inasmuch as I have availed myself of the aid and advice of a celebrated chemist (Mr. Savory of Bond Street, London) to assist me in their composition. No. 1059.—HOP-TEA. Put half an ounce of hops into a covered jug ; pour a pint of boiling water to this; put the lid on and allow the infusion to stand until quite cold ; the tea must then be decantered off into a water-bottle, and should be drunk fasting. The dose should not exceed a gill, which will have the effect of creating a natural appetite, and will also tend to improve and strengthen the digestive organs. No. 1060.—LINSEED TEA. To half an ounce of linseed put into a jug, pour a pint of boiling water, allow the infusion to stand for half an hour, and then decanter off the tea into another jug; sweeten with honey, and flavour with a few drops of orange-flower water ; but it must be understood that in a general way it is best to drink this tea in its natural state. The mucilaginous, emollient, soothing, aperitive, and 446 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND diuretic qualities of linseed, when administered as a drink, whether fasting or otherwise, render its use both safe and efficacious in all cases when the object is to afford alleviation to the sufferings of the gouty, asthma- tical, &c. No. 1061.—LIME-FLOWER TEA. To half an ounce of lime-flowers pour one pint of boil ing water; allow the tea to stand for about ten minutes, pour it into a cup, sweeten with honey, and drink it perfectly hot. This tea, from its antispasmodic qualities, is a safe remedy in cases of indigestion, and is also beneficial when administered for hysteria. No. 1062.—MARSH-MALLOW WATER. Soak one ounce of marshmallow roots hi a little cold water for half an hour; peel off the bark, or skin; cut up the roots into small shavings, and put them into a jug; pour in a pint of boiling water, and allow the infusion to stand for a couple of hours; the decoction must be drunk tepid, and may be sweetened with honey or sugar-candy, and flavoured with orange-flower water, or with orange-juice. Marshmallow water may be used with good effect in all cases of inveterate coughs, catarrhs, &c. No. 1063.—VIOLET TEA. One teaspoonful of dried violets to half a pint of boil- ing water—five minutes' infusion; sweeten with honey. Violet-tea assuages pain, and tends to soothe the system when suffering under attacks of bronchitis, eruptive fevers, chronical catarrhs, &c. No. 1064.—INFUSION OF ROSES. Infuse a quarter of an ounce of red rose-leaves in hall a pint of boiling water for ten minutes; decant, sweeten with honey, and drink cold—fasting. This drink recom- mends itself by its efficacy in diminishing—if not en. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 447 ases. tirely removing—certain cases of debility common to females. The conserve of roses is much used on the Continent, in the successful treatment of pulmonary diseases. No. 1065.—CAMOMILE TEA. Two dozen flowers infused in a pint of boiling water for half an hour; decant, sweeten with honey, and drink half a gill—fasting. Camomile-tea, when not taken in too strong doses, from its tonic and antispasmodic qualities, strengthens the digestive organs, and tends actively to dispel dyspepsia. No. 1066.—ICELAND MOSS JELLY. Wash four ounces of Iceland moss in some warm water, strain off the water, and put the moss on to boil in a quart of water, stirring it on the fire until it boils : it must then be removed to the side, covered over, and allowed to simmer gently for an hour; then add four ounces of sugar, a gill of sherry, the juice of two lemons, the peel of half a lemon, and a white of egg whisked with half a gill of cold water; stir the jelly on the fire until it boils, and pour it into a flannel jellybag; when passed tolerably clear, it may be taken warm, in which state it is most beneficial, or it may be eaten cold like any other jelly. It is necessary to add, that washing the moss deprives it of its tonic powers; and it is therefore recommended to put up with the bitter taste for the sake of its benefit. Iceland moss is very generally used on the Continent in the treatment of consumption; it is most active in the cure of severe coughs, and all phlegmatic diseases of the chest. No. 1067.—HYSSOP TEA. Infuse a quarter of an ounce of dried hyssop flowers in a pint of boiling water for ten minutes ; sweeten with honey, and take a wineglassful three times a day, for debility of the chest. It is also considered a power. ful vermifuge. HOUSEKEEPER'S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 451 No. 1086.—A CURE FOR CHAPPED HANDS. One ounce and a half of olive-oil, one ounce of sper- maceti, one ounce of virgin wax, one ounce of camphor, two ounces of honey; the whole of these ingredients to be placed in a covered basin, which is to be placed in a stewpan containing a little hot water, and set either by the fire or in an open oven, to remain there until dis- solved; the whole must then be well stirred together until quite cold. No. 1087.—COLD CREAM. Dissolve four ounces of oil of sweet-almonds with four ounces of spermaceti; pour these into a basin con- taining four ounces of rose-water, and use a very clean whisk, or a silver fork, to beat up the whole into a smooth creamy substance. No. 1088.--HOW TO MAKE TEA. First, scald the inside of the tea-pot with about half a pint of boiling water, and at the end of two minutes, pour this out, and immediately put the tea in, and close the lid, in order that the steam may penetrate through the curled-up leaves ; at the end of two minutes, add about half a pint of boiling water; and when the tea has, as it is familiarly termed, stood for about three minutes, fill up the tea-pot, and pour out a well-made cup of tea. No. 1089.—HOW TO MAKE COFFEE. The simplest, the easiest, and most effectual means whereby to produce well-made coffee, is to procure one of Adams' Coffee Percolators (No. 57, Haymarket, London); put the coffee in the well, place the perforated pressor upon it, and then pour in the boiling water gently and gradually, until the quantity required is completed; put the lid on the percolator, and set it by the fire to run through. By strict attention to the foro. 2 G 2 452 THE COOK'S GUIDE, AND going instructions excellent coffee will be produced in a few minutes,--the proportions of coffee and water being, one ounce of coffee to a large breakfast-cup of water. No. 1090–HOW TO EXTRACT THE COLOUR FROM COCHINEAL. Ingredients :—One ounce of cochineal, one ounce of salts of wormwood, two ounces of cream of tartar, and one ounce of Roche alum. First, put a quart of spring-water into an untinned copper egg-bowl; add eight ounces of loaf-sugar, and set this on the fire to boil; then add the cochineal and salts of wormwood (previously well pulverized in a mortar), and when this has boiled up, add the cream of tartar; stir together with a clean wooden spoon; and lastly, throw in the powdered Roche alum; mix, and pass through a jelly-bag; when cold, bottle off, cork tight, and keep the colouring in a cold place. Note. The ingredients required for the preparation of cochineal colouring may be purchased for one shilling and ninopence at any chemist's; and by following the foregoing instructions, as much colouring will be pro- duced as would cost two guineas if bought ready pre- pared in small phials from grocers. MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. No. 1. HOW TO PREPARE CAUDLE. Mix four ounces of Robinson's Patent Groats with half a pint of cold ale, pour this into a stewpan contain- ing a quart of hot ale, add a small piece of bruised ginger, a small stick of cinnamon, and six cloves, stir the caudle over the fire while gently boiling for ten minutes, and then strain it off free from the spices, into a jug; add sugar, and rum or brandy to taste. ROUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. 453 No. 2.—ROYAL POSSET FOR A COLD. Mix a table-spoonful of Robinson's Patent Groats with a wine-glassful of cold water, pour this into a stewpan containing nearly half a pint of ordinary French white wine, sweeten with honey, flavour with a few drops of essence of cloves, or failing this, a few cloves will do ; stir the posset over the fire while boiling for six minutes, and drink it quite hot just before going to bed. No. 3.—HOW TO MAKE GRUEL. Take of Robinson's Patent Groats, one table-spoonful mixed with a wine-glassful of cold water, pour this into a stewpan containing nearly a pint of boiling water, stir the gruel on the fire while it boils for ten minutes ; pour it into a basin, add a small pat of butter, and a pinch of salt; or if more agreeable, some sugar, and a small quantity of spirits may be added instead of the butter and salt. Note.—When gruel is made for an invalid, and if the constitution be delicate, the butter must be omitted. No. 4-A PUDDING FOR INFANTS. To two ounces of Robinson's Patent Barley add one ounce of sifted sugar, half an ounce of butter, a pinch of salt, and nearly a pint of milk; mix thoroughly, and stir it over the fire till it boils ; then add two yolks of eggs, and bake the pudding in a buttered pie-dish. No. 5.—INFANTS' FOOD. To a good table-spoonful of Robinson's Patent Barley mixed with a wine-glassful of cold water, add one and a half gills of boiling water; stir this over the fire while boiling for six minutes, and then feed the infant. The same proportion of milk may be used instead of water, when the baby is weaned. 454 HOUSEKEEPER’S AND BUTLER'S ASSISTANT. No. 6.—SCOTCH PUDDING. To six ounces of Robinson's Patent Barley add six ounces of sifted sugar, mix both together with one quart of milk in a stewpan, then add four ounces of fresh butter, a pinch of salt, the rind of a lemon rubbed on sugar, and a wine-glassful of whisky. Stir the whole on the fire until it boils, and then work the batter perfectly smooth; next, work in six yolks of eggs, and then lightly mix in six whites of eggs whisked into a firm froth ; pour the batter into a slightly buttered pie-dish, and bake the pudding in moderate heat. • No. 7.—HOW TO MAKE BARLEY-WATER. Take of Robinson's Patent Barley one ounce mixed with a wine-glassful of cold water, pour this into a stewpan containing nearly one quart of boiling water, stir this over the fire while boiling for five minutes ; then flavour with a small bit of lemon-peel or cinnamon, and sweeten according to taste. Note.—When the above Patent Barley is used to make a summer beverage, only half an ounce must be used. No. 8.—HOW TO PREPARE A SAVOURY CUSTARD. To one table-spoonful of Robinson's Patent Barley add rather more than half a pint of good beef tea; mix and stir over the fire for five minutes, and you have a light yet invigorating kind of food for the debilitated stomach, which in its results will prove far more satis- factory than any preparation known. Note.—This delicate custard may also be advantage- ously prepared with broths made from mutton, game, or poultry. 455 FRANCATELLI'S INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE SERVICE OF WINES, DENOTING THE ORDER IN WHICH THEY SHOULD BE DRUNK AT THE DINNER-TABLE. The judicious service of wines at the dinner-table is essential to the complete success of a well-ordered and recherché dinner; for on the manner and order in which this service is conducted will chiefly depend the more or less favourable judgment awarded (independently of their real claims to superiority) to the wines put before the guests. First, let it be remembered that all possible care should be taken in removing the bottles from their bins, and afterwards also, in handling them for the purpose of drawing the corks, and decanting the wines, not to dis- turb any deposit that may exist in the bottles, for that deposit, if shaken, destroys not only the brilliancy of the wine, but also impairs its flavour and bouquet. The different kinds of Sherries, Ports, Madeira, and all Spanish and Portuguese wines in general, are the better for having been decanted several hours before being drunk. During winter their aroma is improved by the temperature of the dining-room acting upon their volatile properties for an hour or so before dinner-time. By paying due attention to this part of the process, all the mellowness which good wines acquire by age, pre- dominates to the delight of the epicure's grateful palate. The lighter wines, such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and most of the wines of Italy, should be most carefully handled, and decanted an hour only before dinner- 466 FRANCATELLI'S INSTRUCTIONS FOR time. In winter, the decanters should be either dipped in warm water or else placed near the fire, to warm them, for about ten minutes previously to their being used. In summer, use the decanters without warming them, as the genial warmth of the atmosphere will be all-sufficient, not only to prevent chilling the wines, but to develop their fragrant bouquet. Moreover, let these, and all delicate wines, be brought into the dining-room as late as may be consistent with convenience. And now, as regards the order in which wines should be served during dinner :- I would recommend all bon vivants desirous of testing and thoroughly enjoying a variety of wines, to bear in mind that they should be drunk in the following order: viz.- — When it happens that oysters preface the dinner, a glass of Chablis or Sauterne is their most proper accompaniment: genuine old Madeira, or East India Sherry, or Amontillado, proves a welcome stomachic after soup of any kind,—not excepting turtle,—after eating which, as you value your health, avoid all kinds of punch—especially Roman punch. During the service of fish, cause any of the following to be handed round to your guests :—Amontillado, Hock, Tisane Cham- pagne, Pouilly, Meursault, Sauterne, Arbois, vin de Grave, Montrachet, Château-Grillé, Barsac, and gene- rally all kinds of dry white wines. With the entrées, any of the following wines may be introduced : viz.— BORDEAUX. BURGUNDY, &c. Saint Julien. Leoville. Moulin-d-vent. Laroze. Thorins. Haut-Brion, Beaune. Château-Lafitte. Chassagne. Château-Margaux, Pale and brown Sherries, Mouton-Lafitte. Amontillado. Latour. Bucellas. Médoc. Mancinillo, Saint Emilion. Saint Estèphe. Macon, THE SERVICE OF WINES. 457 SECOND-COURSE WINES. RED WINES. Pommard. Rhenish wines (red) Volnay. Ermitage. Nuits. Hermitage. Richebourg. Tavel. Clos-Vougeot. Roussillon. Romanée-Conti. Château neuf du Papr. Chambertin. Côte-rôtie, Saint Georges. Jurancon. Pouilly. Monté-Fiascone, Meursault. Monté-Pulciano. Saint Perray. Vino di Pasta. WHITE WINES. Vin de Grave. Aſ pétillant. Sauterne. Carbonnieux. Barsac, Champagnes. Langon. RED CHAMPAGNES. Champagne. Sill Volnay mousseux. Sparkling Moselle. Veuve Cliquot. DESSERT WINES. Muscat-Frontignan. Madeira. Muscat-Lunel. Malmsey Madeira. Muscat-Rivesalte. Syracuse. Grenache. Tokay. Vin de paille. Constance. Carcavallos. Rota. Picoli. Alicante, Schiras. Bouzy. Versy. laga. A question of the highest importance, but into which I may but briefly enter, is to determine to which of all these wines a decided preference should be given, both with regard to taste, and also in respect to their influence on the health of different temperaments. It is easier to settle the latter part of the question than the former, inasmuch as it is difficult, not to say impossi- 458 FRANCÁTELLI S INSTRUCTIONS FOR ble, to lay down rules for the guidance of the palate. Thus there are some who delight in the perfumed yet austere bouquet of Bordeaux, while others prefer the de- licate fragrance of Champagne ; dome give the palm to the generous and mirth-inspiring powers of Burgundy; while the million deem that Madeira (when genuine), Port, and Sherry, from what are termed their generous natures, ignoring the plentiful admixture of alcohol, are the only wines worthy of notice. All these tastes are no doubt well enough founded on good and suffi- cient reasons, and may prove safe indicators for the preservation of health :—for instance, a person of san. guine temperament feels a necessity for a light sapid wine, such as genuine Champagnes and Rhenish wines; while the phlegmatic seek those of a more spirituous, generous nature—Burgundy, Port, Madeira, or Sherry. Those who are a prey to spleen—lowness of spirits-- melancholy—are prone to select, as a sure and pleasant remedy for their frightful ailments, the wines of Italy, Spain, Portugal, Roussillon, and Burgundy. The bilious, who generally are blessed with a good appetite, pro- vided always that they do not smoke, require a generous wine, which, while capable of acting both as an astrin- gent and a dissolvent of the bile, is of facile diges- tion; such are the properties of all first-class Bordeaux wines. Bordeaux is said to be a cold wine; this false notion arises out of mere prejudice—nothing can be more contrary to truth: this health-restoring wine, as I have already stated, is of easy digestion, and possesses, moreover, the advantage of being very considerably less inebriating than any other first-class wine. In short, Burgundy is exciting, Champagne is captious, Roussillon restorative, and Bordeaux stomachic. It now remains to show the order in which the se- veral sorts of wines, enumerated above, should be served at table. Custom and fashion have ever had more to do with this practice than any real consideration for health or taste. INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING DRINKING-CUPS. 463 burrage, one orange sliced, one ounce of bruised sugar- candy. Process :—Place these ingredients in a covered jug embedded in rough ice for an hour and a quarter pre- viously to its being required for use, and then decanter the cup free from the herbs, &c. 8.—BEER CUP. Ingredients :—One quart of stout or porter, half an ounce of moist sugar, a small slice of bread toasted brown, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg and ginger. Mix these ingredients in a jug, and allow the cup to steep for half an hour previously to its being drank. Note.—Ale cup is made in a similar manner. These cups are more particularly adapted for being handed round with cheese. 9.—CYDER CUP. Ingredients :—One quart of Cyder, one pint of German Seltzer-water, a small glass of Cognac, a bunch of balm, ditto of burrage, a sliced orange, one ounce of bruised sugar-candy. Process :—Place the ingredients in a covered jug embedded in ice for an hour and a quarter, and then decanter the cup free from herbs, &c. Note.— Any other aerated water may be substituted for Seltzer, or the cup may be prepared without the addition of any water... 10.—PERRY CUP. This is prepared in the same manner as Cyder cup, substituting, of course, Perry for Cyder. BILLS OF FARE 466 DINNER FOR 6 or 8 Persons. January. Julienne soup. Soles au gratin. 1 Remove. Braized leg of mutton a la Provençale. 2 Entrees. Salmis of partridges with mushrooms. Boudins of fowl à la Pompadour. SECOND COURCI. lioast wild duck. Souffe pudding. Dressed spinach. Apple Charlotte. Dinner for 6 or 8 Persons. January Cressy soup. Boiled Dublin Bay haddock, egg sauce. 1 Remove. Boiled capon with broccoli and white sauce 2 Entrees. Mutton cutlets à la Réforme. Sweetbreads larded à la jardinière. Second Course. Roast pheasant. Punch jelly. Macaroni au gratin Pear tartlets FOR JANUAKY. 467 DINER DE 6 à 8 Couverts. Janvier. Le potage à la Julienne. Les soles au gratin. 1 Releve. Le gigot de mouton à la Provençale. 2 Entrées. Le salmis de perdreaux aux champignons. Les boudins de volaille à la Pompadour. Second Service. Le canard sauvage rôti. Le pudding soufflé. Les épinards au jus. La Charlotte de pommes. Dîner de 6 à 8 Couverts. Janvier. Le potage à la Cressy. La merluche, sauce aux œufs. 1 Relevé. Le chapon bouilli aux brocolis. 2 Entrées. Les côtelettes de mouton à la Réforme. Les ris de veau piqués à la jardinière. Second Service. Le faisan rôti. La gelée de punch. Le macaroni au gratin. Les tartelettes de poires. 2 2 FOR JANUARY. 469 DÎNER DE 10 à 12 Couverts. Janvier Le potage consommé aux quenelles. Le turbot à la sauce Hollandaise. 2 Relevés. Le filet de bœuf piqué à la Chateaubriand. La dinde rôtie à la purée de champignons. 4 Entrees. Les Krömeskys d'huîtres à la Russe. Les côtelettes de porc à la sauce Robert. Les perdreaux à la Prince de Galles. Le suprême de volaille à la Macédoine. Second Service. Les poules d'eau. [2 Rôts.] Les bécassines. 1 Relevé. Le fondu au Parmésan. 4 Entremets. La salade à la Rachel Le vol-au-vent de reine- claudes. La crême Plombières glacée. Les céleris braises au jus. 1.70 BILLS OF PARE DINNER FOR 12 or 14 PERSONS. February, Mulligatawney soup. Clear Italian paste soup. 2 Fishes. Crimpt cod, oyster sauce. Fillets of gurnets à la cardinal. 2 Removes. Roast saddle of mutton. Boiled fowls and tongue à la Macéiloine. 4 Entrées. Sweetbread cutlets à la Villeroi. Salmis of woodcocks à la chasseur. Fillets of rabbits larded à la Toulouse, Bou-lins of pheasant à la Richelieu. SECOND COURSE. (2 Roasts.] Black game. Partridges. Ginger pudding. [2 Remores.] Apple fritters. 6 Entremets. Seakale with white sauce. Apricots and rice. Canapces à la Prince of Wales. Compote of chestnuts vermicellie Coffee cream. Savarin cake with maraschino. FOR FEBRUARY. 471 471 DINER DE 12 À 14 Couverts. Février. Le potage à la Mulligatawney. Le consommé aux pâtes d'Italie 2 Poissons. Le cabillaud recrépi, sauce aux huîtres. Les filets de grondins à la cardinal. 2 Relevés. La selle de mouton rôtie. Les poulets et langue à la Macédoine. 4 Entrées. Les côtelettes de ris de veau a la Villeoi. Le salmis de bécasses a la chasseur. Les filets de lapereux piqués à la Toulouse Les boudins de faisan à la Richelieu. Second Service. Les coqs noirs. [2 Rôts.] Les perdreaux. 2 Relevés. Le pudding au gingembre. Les beignets de pommes 6 Entremets. Les choux de mer à la sauce. Les abricots au riz. Les canapés à la Prince de La compote de marrons en Galles. vermicelle. La crême au café. savarin au marasquin. 472 BILLS OF FARE DINNER FOR 16 or 20 Persons. February. Mock turtle soup. Carlton House soup. 2 Fishes. Turbot with lobster sauce. Fillets of soles à la Rouennaise. 2 Removes. Glazed ham with spinach. Capons with truffles à la Périgueux. 6 Entrées. Chartreuse of partridges. Croustade with quenelles à la Lucullus. Mutton cutlets larded, chevreuil sauce. Salmis of snipes à la bonne-bouche. Fricassee of chickens with mushrooms. Suprême of pheasant, purée of chestnuts. Hare. SECOND COURSE. [2 Roasts.] Widgeon 2 Removes. Iced biscuits with vanilla. Soufflé of ground rice. 6 Entremets. Broccoli with Parmesan cheese. Chocolate cream. Aspic border with Italian salad. Pears à la ('onde. Orange jelly. Genoese giacés with noyeau FOR FEBRUARY. 473 Février. DÎNER DE 16 à 20 COUVERTS. Le potage à la fausse tortue. Le potage à la Carlton House. 2 Poissons. Le turbot à la sauce homard. Les filets de soles à la Rouennaise. 2 Relevés. Le jambon glacé aux épinards. Les chapons truffés à la Périgueux. 6 Entrées. La chartreuse de perdreaux. La croustade de quenelles à la Lucullus. Les côtelettes de mouton piquées en chevreuil. Le salmis de bécassines à la bonne-bouche. La fricassée de poulets aux champignons. Le suprême de faisan, purée de marrons. SECOND SERVICE. [2 Rots.] Le lievre. Les macreuses. 2 Relevés. Les petits biscuits glacés à la vanille. Le soufflé de farine de riz. 6 Entremets. Les brocolis au Parmésan. La crême au chocolat. L'aspic garni d'une salade Les poires à la Conde. Italienne. La gelée d'oranges. Les Génoises glacees nu noves u. 474 BILLA OF FARE DINNER FOR 8 or 10 Persons. March. Ox-tail soup à la jardinière. Baked gurnets, piquante sauce. 2 Removes. Roast saddle of Welsh mutton. Boiled capon with celery sauce. 3 Entrées. Lobster patties. Fricandeau with peas (preserved). Fillets of pigeons à la de Luynes. Second Course. Russian salad. [2 Roasts.] Teal. Apple tart. [2 Removes.] Cabinet pudding. 4 Entremets. Dressed Brussels sprouts. Pine-apple jelly. Scolloped oysters. Meringues à la vanille. 476 BILLS OF FAKE Dinner for 6 or 8 Persons. April. Crayfish soup. Spey trout, parsley sauce. 2 Removes. Boiled fowls, oyster sauce. Glazed tongue à la jardinière. 2 Entrées. Lamb cutlets, asparagus peas. Boudins of rabbits a la Reine. SECOND COURSE. [2 Roasts.] Lobster salad. Green goosc. Orange fritters. Wine jelly 4 Entremets. Tapioca pudding. Potatoes à la Lyonnaise DINNER FOR 6 OR 8 PERSONS. April Spring soup. Brill with lobster sauce. 1 Remove. Braized beef à la Napolitaine. • 2 Entrées. Fricot of fowl, poivrade sauce. Mutton cutlets à la Soubise. SECOND COURSE. Roast Guinea fowl. 4 Entremets. Spinach with cream. Lemon jelly in quarters Cheesecakes. D'Artois pastry. 478 PILLS OF FARE DIXXER FOR 14 or 16 Persons. May. Cireen puréeof asparagus soup. Consommé à la D'Esclignac. 2 Fishes John Dory, Dutch sauce. Red mullets with fine-herbs. 2 Removes. Calf's head à la tortue. Spring chickens and tongue à la printanière. 4 Entrees. Krömeskys of sweetbread à la Russe. Lamb cutlets à la Duchesse. Salmis of quails with truffles. Fillets of fowls à la Régence. SECOND COURSE. [2 Roasts.] Turkey poults. Ducklings. 2 Removes. Iced puilding à la Nesselrode. Small ramequins in cases. 6 Entremets. A spic of plovers' eggs. Vanilla cream. Asparagus. Gooseberry tartlets. Strawberry jelly. Nougat ofalmonds a la Chantill: FOR MAY. 479 479 DINER DE 14 à 16 Couverts. Mai. Le potage à la purée d'asperges. Le consommé à la D'Esclignac. 2 Poissons. Le St. Pierre à la Hollandaise. Les rougets en caisses aux fines herbes. 2 Releves. La tête de veau a la tortue. Les petits poulets et langue à la printanière. 4 Entrées. Les Krömeskys de ris de veau à la Russe. Les côtelettes d'agneau à la Duchesse. Le salmis de cailles aux truffes. Les filets de volaille à la Régence. Second Service. Les dindonneaux. Les canetons. 2 Releves. Le pudding glacé à la Nesselrode. Les petits ramequins en caisses 6 Entremets L'aspic garni d'œufs de La crême à la vanille. pluviers. Les asperges à la sauce. Les tartelettes de groseilles a maquereaux. La gelée de fraises. Le nougat à la Chantilly. 480 BILLS OP FARE DINNER FOR 12 Persons. June Purée of green peas soup. 2 Fishes. Stewed sturgeon, matelote sauce. Fillets of mackerel à la maître-d'hôtel 2 Removes. Roast forequarter of lamb. Spring chickens à la Montmorency. 4 Entrées. Fillets of ducklings with green peas Mutton cutlets à la Wyndham. Blanquette of fowl with cucumbers. Timbale of macaroni à la Milanaise. SECOND COURSE. [2 Roasts.] Pigeons. Leveret Flemish gauffres. [2 Removes.] Iced souffle. 6 Entremets. French beans dressed. Peach jelly with noyeau. Mayonaise of fowl. Love's Wells glacés with chocolate. Peas à la Française. Flanc of apricots and rice. TOR JUNE. 481 DireR DE 12 à 14 Couveuts. Juin Le potage a la puree de pois verts. 2 Poissons, Lesturgeon en matelote. Les filets de maquereaux à la maître-d'hôtel 2 Relevés. Le quartier d'agneau rôti. Les poulets printaniers à la Montmorency. 4 Entrées. Les filets de canetons aux petits pois. Les côtelettes de mouton à la Wyndham. La blanquette de volaille aux concombres La timbale de macaroni à la Milanaise. Les pigeons. SECOND SERVICE. [2 Rôts.] Le levraut 2 Relevés. Les gauffres à la Flamande. Le soufflé glace 6 Entremets. Les haricots verts sautés. La gelée de pêches au noyeau La mayonaise de volaille. Les puits-d'amour glaces au chocolat. Les petits pois à la Française. Le flanc d'abricots au riz. 21 484 BILLS OF PARE DINNER FOR 8 or 10 Persons. August. Clear vermicelli soup. Salmon grilled à la Tartare. Roast leg of lamb. [2 Removes.] Fowl à la financière. 3 Entrées. Croquettes of fowl. Fillets of beef sautés à la Chateaubriand. Compote of pigeons with peas, &c. Second Course. Roast grouse. German salad. 4 Entremets. Compiègne cake with apricot. Pine-apple jelly. Peaches and rice. Artichokes à la Lyonnaise Dinner for 8 or 10 Persons. August. Le potage à la Marcus Hill. Les truites à la Provençale. 2 Removes. Roast neck of venison. Grouse pie à l'Anglaise. 3 Entrées. Mutton cutlets with cauliflowers. Fowls sautés à la Marengo. Tendons of veal with stewed peas. Second Course. Roast capon. Aspic of prawns. Apricot fritters. Italian cream. 4 Entremets. Filbert tartlety. French beans dressed. 486 BILLS OF FARE DINNER FOR 12 Persons. September. Grouse soup. Salmon souchet. Chicken pie à l'Anglaise. [2 Removes.] Roast sirloin of beef 4 Entrées. Veal cutlets larded à la Régence. Braized partridges with cabbage, &c. Quenelles of fowl à l'Estragon. Civet of leveret à la Bordelaise. Second COURSE. [2 Roasts.] Capon. Grouse. 1 Remove. Coffee soufflé. 4 Entremets. Artichokes à la Barigoule. Vol-au-vent of greengages. Damson cheese à la Chantilly. Profitrolles with chocolate. Dinner for 6 Persons. September. Soup à la bonne femme. Fillets of soles à la ravigote. 1 Remove. Roast saddle of mutton. 2 Entrées, Sweetbreads larded, with spinach. Salmis of grouse. SECOND COURSE. Roast hare. Italian salad. 4 Entremets. Tomatas au gratin. Flanc of pears and rice. Punch jelly. Damson tart 488 BILLS (P FAKE DINNER FOR 8 Persons. October. Le potage à la Julienne. Baked haddock, Italian sauce. 2 Removes. Braized neck of mutton en chevreuil. Roast pheasant à la Chipolata. 2 Entrées. Pork cutlets, tomata sauce Curried rabbits and rice. Second COURSE. Omelet with oysters. Roast black game. 4 Entremets. Potatoes à la Duche se. Blanc-manger. Apple tartlets. Semolina pudding Dinner for 6 Persons. October. Giblet soup. Turbot grilled, brown caper sauce. 1 Remove. Braized leg of mutton à la Béarnaise. 2 Entrées Ox-palates à la Florentine. Chickens a la Tartare. Second COURSE Roast partridges. Dressed brocca li 4 Entremets. Cintra fritters. Mecca oaves. Noyea jelly. Pine-apple pudding. FOR OOTOBER. 489 DÎNER DE 8 Couverts. Octobre. Le potage à la Julienne. La merluche au four à l'Italienne. 2 Relevés. Le carré de mouton piqué en chevreuil. Le faisan rôti à la Chipolata. 2 Entrées. Les côtelettes de porc, sauce tomates. Les lapereaux en Karic à l'Indienne. Second Service. Les coqs noirs rôtis. L'omelette aux huîtres. 4 Entremets. Les pommes de terre à la Les tartelettes de pommes. Duchesse. Le blanc-manger. Le pudding de semoule. Dîner de 6 Couverts. Octobre. Le potage aux abattis d'oies. Le turbot grillé, sauce aux câpres. 1 Relevé. Le gigot de mouton à la Provençale. 2 Entrées. Les palais de bœuf à la Florentine. Les poulets à la Tartare. Second Service. Les perdreaux rôtis. Les brocolis à la sauce 4 Entremets. Les beignets à la Cintra Les pains de la Mecque La gelée au noyeau. Le pudding à "ananas. 490 BILŪS OF FARE DINNER FOB 18 Persons. November. Purée of carrots à la Cressy. Consommé of pheasant with quenelles. 2 Fishes. Crimpt cod, oyster sauce. Turbot à la cardinal. 2 Removes. Fillet of veal à la jardiniere. Braized ham with spinach. 6 Entrées. Border of rice à la Reine. Salmis of grouse à la Richelieu. Pâté-chaud a la financière. Fillets of hare larded, poivrade Mutton cutlets à la Russe. sauce. Suprême of fowls à la Victoria. SECOND COURSE. [2 Roasts.] Larks. Wild ducks. 2 Removes. Kouglauffe with almond whip. Iced Love's cartridges. 6 Entremets. Braized celery, brown sauce. Neapolitan cake. Mayonaise of lobster. Maraschino jelly. Brown bread pudding. Suprême of fruits. FOR NOVEMBER. DÎNER DE 18 Couverts. Novembre. La purée de carottes à la Cressy. Le consommé de faisans aux quenelles. 2 Poissons. Le cabillaud recrépi aux huîtres. Le turbot à la cardinal. 2 Relevés. Le rond de veau rôti à la jardinière. Le jambon aux épinards. 6 Entrees. La bordure de riz à la reine. Le pâté-chaud à la financière. Les côtelettes de mouton à la Russe. Le salmis de grouses à la Richelieu. Les filets de lièvre, sauce poivrade. Le suprême à la Victoria. SECOND SERVICE. [2 Rôts.] Les mauviettes. Les canards sauvages 2 Relevés. Les cartouches de Monsieur de Le Kouglauffe au Sabayon. Cupidon 6 Entremets. Les céleris braisés au jus. Le gateau à la Napolitaine. La mayonaise de homard. La gelée au maraschino. Le pudding de pain bis. Le suprême de fruits. 492 BILLS OF FARE DINNER FOR 14 Persons. December. [2 Soups.] Purée of grouse Brunoise 2 Fishes. Baked pike, with piquante sauce Whitings à la maître-d'hôtel. 2 Removes. Capon à la Périgueux. Roasted ham, Madeira sauce. 4 Entries. Cutlets of partridges à la Maréchale. Escalopes of fat livers with fine-herbs. Boudins of fowl à la Lucullus. Sweetbreads larded, with endives. SECOND COURSE. oasts.] Pheasants. Widgeon. 2 Removes. Vol-au-vent of fruit, with iced cream. Flemish gauffres. 6 Entremets. Potatoe a la Duchesse. Timbale of nouilles à la vanille Brussels sprouts au gratin. Calf's jelly with grapes. Bai arian raspberry cream. Florentines with greengage jaar. FOR DECEMBER. 493 DÎNER DE 14 Couverts. Décembre. 2 Potages. A la Brûnoise. A la purée de grouses. 2 Poissons. Le brochet farci au four, sauce piquante. Les merlans grillés à la maître-d'hôtel. 2 Relevés. Le chapon truffé à la Périgueux. Le jambon a la broche, sauce Madère. 4 Entrées. Les côtelettes de perdreaux à la Maréchale. Les escalopes de foies gras aux fines herbes. Les boudins de volaille à la Lucullus. Les ris de veau piqués à la chicorée. SECOND SERVICE. [2 Róts.] Les faisans. Les macreuses. 2 Relevés. Les gauffres à la Flamande. Le vol-au-vent de fruit à la crême glacee. 6 Entremets. Les pommes de terre a la Duchesse. Les choux de Bruxelles au gratin. La crême Bavaroise à la framboise. La timbale de nouilles à la vanille. La gelée de pieds de veau aux raisins Les Florentines à la reiue-claude. FOR DECEMBER, 495 DINER DE 14 Couverts. Décembre. 2 Potages. Le macaroni à la royale. Les tendons de veau à la jardinière. 2 Poissons. Les filets de soles à la Normande. Le turbot, sauce aux câpres. 2 Relevés. Le pâté de mouton à l'Irlandaise. Les faisans piqués rôtis à la financière. 4 Entrées. Le suprême de volaille à l'écarlate. Le salmis de canards sauvages à la Provençale. Les filets de bœuf sautés à l'Espagnole. Les rissolettes de gibier à l'Italienne. SECOND SERVICE. [2 Rôts.] Les bécasses. Les mauviettes. Relevés. Les petits biscuits glacés au marasquin. Le soufflé à la vanille. 6 Entremets. Les choux de mer à la béchamel. Les pommes à la Portugaise La salade Italienne eu bordure. Le pudding de gingembre. La gelée d'oranges en quartiers. Le nougat d'amandes à la Chantilly. 496 BILLS OF FAKE. Christmas Dinner. Turtle soup. 2 Fishes. Fillets of soles à la Tartara. Turbot à la l'atel. 3 Removes. Roast turkey Périgueux sauce. Braized ham à la jardinière. Spiced round of beef. 4 Entrées. Marrow patties. Sweetbreads à la St. Cloud. Salmis of pheasants à la financière. Mutton cutlets à la Vicomtesse Woodcocks. Second COURSE. [2 Roasts.] Grouse. Mince pies. [2 Removes.] Plum pudding. 6 Entremets. Broccoli with Parmesan cheese. Italian cream. Salad à la Rachel. Croûtes à l'ananas. Punch jelly. Meringue à la Parisienne GLOSSARY. Chryse a la Parisienne, Seda ornamental entree or side-dish, **2 =2.7 x 2400+ İns; the interior being garnished with Campecaetera menuts wejaticei fruits, preserved in syrup, or pple sand usw er route: ts word is also used to designate l put se prezi is pues, quails, or larks--mixed with Consomma-ercing ra, much used in the preparation of soups, Sans Concs_en sma sezios of trades, red tongue, &c., are inlaid, # runs Ir SD. as it sayisi, they are said to be contisés. Croquecas ad Risscias prepniton of mince, with a bread- Tv ons he wrds ca se smething crisp. Chaquetas - rin mane ati and boiled sugar. Gruusias. 30-as Ters Tzbale, Casseroles of rice. Various er" made a ser a paste & prepared rice. Consensppe et recé mies sizes and shapes, fried in it , ni mus sus friassées, dressed vegetables, . : re as urrai ra certua soups, calery with purées. Coil Entres—Thee consist of tassées, salmis, cutlets, ham, Benito at game, pee.uy, and fish, aspis, salads of poultry, fish or su baseis potted mats &c. They are appropriate for ball- appers puice breasts sau epea si essions where a cold collation is serel Entrees— conventional term for sidzishes, comprising cutlets, the theater, Esseeeps, samis boudins, sweetbreads, pâtés. cha's chartres de Entremets svadzarse siizishes, consist of four distinct sorts, nameir:- vi entrées, drei vegetables, scolloped shell-fish and dressed eggs; and lucir, of the infinite y-varied class of sweets, consisting of pud- dus gataux, timbales, sweet croquettes, charlottes, croquantes, pastries, es creams fritters & Espagnole and Veloute—The two main sauces from which all others are made : the first is brown and the other white. Fanchonnette and Florentines — Varieties of small pastry meringued over. Farce — Is a coarse kind of forcemeat used for raised pies and gratins. Flans, Darioles, and Mirlitons—Varieties of French cheese-cakes. Fricandeaux and Grenadine—Consist of the primest parts of veal or GLOSSARY. 499 ; fillets of poultry, &c., smoothly trimmed, larded, and brightly glazed with a concentration of their own liquor : they are served as side-dishes. Fricassee—consists of chickens cut in pieces and prepared in a white sauce, with truffles, mushrooins, cocks'-combs, &c., as accessories. Gauffres—A light spongy sort of biscuit. Glace—Anything iced ; this word is also sometimes used figuratively by French cooks to signify a smooth glossy surface. Gratins—A term applied to consolidated soups and sauces ; also to certain dishes of high character, consisting of game, poultry, fish, vege- tables, or macaroni, &c., improved by great care and finish, through the use of concentrated sauces or gravies. Hors-d'œuvres (hot).—A species of very light entries, such as patties of all kinds, rissoles, croquettes, scolloped fish, shell-fish, macaroni, poultry, game, sweetbreads, brains, ox-piths, horlys of fish, poultry, or game, &c. Hors-d'œuvres (cold). These should be eaten immediately after the soup and fish; they are considered as appetisers, or whets to the appetite, and consist of sardines, anchovies, tunny, Dutch-herrings, savoury butters, oysters, oiled salads. Jardiniere -A mixed preparation of vegetables stewed down in their own sauce. Luting—A paste made of flour and water, and used for fastening the lids on to pie-pans when preserving game, &c., in order to prevent evaporation. Macedoino --of vegetables is a Jardinière, with the addition of some kind of white sauce. Macedoine of Fruit—A kind of jelly. Madeleine—Resembling queen-cake. Matelote—A dish of mixed fresh-water fish, sometimes of one kind only, as eels. Meringues—A kind of light trifle. Mignionette Pepper -A preparation from either white or black pepper- corns, which, after being broken, chopped, or ground coarse, so as to re- semble mignionette-seed, should be sifted in order to remove the dust. Nougat—A mixture of almonds and sugar. Nouilles—A kind of vermicelli. Paner- to bread-crumb. Panure—Cutlets, scollops, croquettes, or any other entrée that is bread-crumbed. Piping—A kind of decoration made of icing, used for ornamenting cakes, pastry-stands, small pastry, &c. It is thus effected : take 3 2 K 2 501 INDEX. -sauce ... 152 The references are to the Recipe not the Page. No. Na Adelaide sandwiches ... 358 Apricot water ice 921 Aitch-bone of beef, boiled 384 Aromatic herbaceous seasoning 948 Albert biscuits 780 Arrowroot 989 Allemande sauce 17 97 Almonds, burnt 1004 Artichokes à la Barigoule 681 cakes 765 à l'Italienne 683 cream sauce ... 93 à la Lyonnaise 682 gauffres 753 preserved 965 milk beverage 983 purée of 117 milk, or orgeate 1036 with butter sauce... 680 paste 955 Jerusalem 698, 699 American drinks 1014 Asparagus garnish... 108 jams, à la Française 702 peas à la Crême 685 Anchovies 343 purée of spruce ... 113 Anchovy butter 128 soup canopees 335 with white sauce ... 684 sauce 49 Aspic jelly 7 toast 338 jelly, economical Angelica, to preserve green 880 jelly, ham with 930 Appetisers for breakfast or jelly, tongue with 931 light suppers 301 Au gratin, turbot with ... 195 Apples à la Portugaise. 797A Aurora sauce... 88 Apple charlotte 797B -, compote of 892 Baba, or Polish cake 738 fritters ... 806 Bacon and chicken, boiled 473 jelly 999 how to cure... 735 marmalade 1002 Baked cod's head 228 Parisian turnover of 786 cod-fish, stuffed 219 pudding 833 gurnet 247 sauce 50 haddock 230 tart with quince 803 hams 454 tartlets 797-798 potatoes 7055 Apricots, to bottle 874 Ball-supper sandwiches .. 364 Apricot biscuits 775 Barberries, dried 888 , compote of 896 Barbel, roach, and dace... 276 cream 860-868 Barley sugar... 1013 ice 1045 water 986 789 Baron of hare, German fashion 649 dried 883 Bath chaps 447 German tourte of 783 Bavarian cream 858 jam 1005' Batter. German frying 289 ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ::::::::::::: ... ... ... ... ... ... D'Artois of ... 5 ... ... 502 INDEX. salad ... ... page 454 .. ... ... ... ... ... ... ::::: ... ... ; iced , collops, Italian ... 7 ::: ... No No Batter, Italian frying 291 Beefsteak ana oyster pudding 50€ novel kinds of frying 290 Beetroot and Spanish onion Beans, broad, à la Crême 688 371 French, à la maître d'hôtel 686 Beverage, almond milk... 983 French, preserved 958 Bills of Fare for every Month French, with tine-herbs 687 iu the Year white haricot, à la Brê. Biscuits, Albert 780 tonne... 701 apricot 775 , white haricot, à la maître- brown bread 770 d'hôtel 700 Brussels, or rusks 749 Windsor, preserved 959 champagne 772 Bechamel cream sauce ... 16 cinnamon 903 sauce, white 15 cream 912 turbot, à la 196 devilled 337 Beef, aitch-bone of, boiled 384 finger, or Naples 745 au gratin 538 1053 536 767 collops, boiled 537 ', orange... 773 fillet of, braized à la peach 774 Milton 392 Russian 779 fillet of, larded 389 Sicilian 778 fillets of, à la Napo- Victoria 781 litaine 390 Venetian 768 fillet of, à la Richelieu 391 Black-currant jelly 994 fillet of, à la Soubise 585 Black game à la royale. 475 thin flank of, rolled 385 663 hashed, 526-527 Blanc-manger 857 hashed, with pickled Bleeding of the nose, to stop... 1083 walnuts 525 Bloaters, potted 947 hunting 396 Yarmouth 329 minced 529 Boar's head, German sauce for 31 mironton of 539 Boiled aitch-bone of beef 384 393 round of beef 383 ribs of, à-la-mode 388 ", capon 472 roast ribs of 382 cod à la religieuse 224 braized roll of, à la fowls à la cardinal 624 Béarnaise ... 386 -, gurnet 246 boiled, round of 383 haddock, egg-sauce 229 roast sirloin of 381 mackerel 249 -, rump of, stewed 387 mackerel à la maître -, spiced potted 944 d'hôtel 250 vinegaret of 541 leg of mutton 411 tea 973 rabbit and bacon... 639 Beefsteak with anchovy butter 583 salmon, plain 200 à la Chateaubriand 582 salmon, Scotch fashion 209 - à la Française 581 soles 233 -, epicurean 584 -, sturgeon à la Bourguig- and oyster pic 500 notte.. 216 - roast ... , pressed 2 > ... 504 INDIX, ... ... ... ... ... ... dessert ... ... ... , or Baba · puree of ... Turin ... No. No, Cabbage, red, pickled 968 | Caper sauce, white 26 Cabinet pudding, 825 Capilotada of fowl 651 Cakes in general 737 Capon, boiled 472 almond 765 roast 660 cheese ... 782 à la Périgueux 469 Compiègue 739 à la Piémontaise 470 Condé ... 788 à la Régence 471 D'Artois 784 Caramel cream 865 903 lemon 1011 Genoese 757 Cardinal sauce 62 with almonds 758 Carlton-house soup 139 ginger 771 Carp, fried 272 Parisian 741 stewed 273 plum ... 746 stuffed and baked 274 Polish ... 795 Carrots, glazed 105 738 116 pound ... 750 soup à la Cressy 153 Queen's 764 , young, à l'Allemande... 693 Savarin 743 preserved 961 Savoy.. 744 Cartridges, Love's... 1055 seed 748 Cauliflowers with Parmesan Spanish, Petits-choux 760 cheese 674 911 with white sauce ... 673 veal, Yorkshire 512 Cazanova salad 377 Victoria 742 82 Calf's brains fried ... 568 Celery à la Villeroi 667 in cases au gratin 569 and button-onions soup 136 à la ravigotte 566 braized with brown sauce 666 with nut-brown purée of 119 butter 567 sauce 91 Calf's feet, fried 572 white, soup 163 à la bourgeoise 570 Celestine cream 866 à la poulette 571 Champagne biscuit 772 jelly 838 Chapped hands, cure for 1086 soup 147 Chaps, Bath 447 head and bacon 586 Char, grilled .. 263 - à la financière 589 , water, souchet of 264 broiled 588 Charles, St. (American drink) 1030 hashed 587 Charlotte, apple 797B turtle fashion 590 Russian 863 liver and bacon 561 Chartreuse of partridges 553 liver à la mode 562 Chateaubriand sauce 77 146 Chaud froid, fricassée 93 Camomile tea 1065 Cheesecakes 782 Canopees anchovy 335 Cheese, canapees 334 cheese 334 toasted 333 Prince of Wales'... 336 Cherries, to bottle 873 Caper sance, brown 25 compote of 898 sauce ... ... ... ... ... ... tail soup 6 506 INDES 915! ... Crab soup ... ... ... No. Xo Compote of strawberries 900 Cucumber salad ... 365 - iced fruits for à la Espagnole 697 Condé cakes ...... 788 à la poulette 696 Confectionary and preserving 869 Cure bacon, how to 735 Consommé with quenelles 138 hams, how to 734 Cookery for invalids and infants 973 for burns or scalds 1076 Cornucopia 734A chapped hands 1086 Course, second, roasts 652 chilblains 1079 170 colds in the head ... 1075 Cracked lips, cure for 1080 cracked lips in winter 1080 Cracklings 905 sprains 1077 Crayfish soup 171 the sting of a wasp or bee 1082 Cream, almond, sauce 93 tooth-ache ... 1085 Béchamel sauce 16 - warts 1081 different kinds of ... 857 Currant, black, jelly 994 ices 1043 red, jelly 993 apricot ... 860-868 white, jelly 997 Bavarian 858 water 1034 biscuits... 912 to bottle 870 caramel 865 and raspberry jelly 845, 996 celestine 866 and raspberry cream 867 chocolate 862 and raspberry cream ice 1048 cotiee 861 and raspberry water ice 925 currant and raspberry 867 Curried rabbit and rice... 642 ice, apricot 1045 rice 301 ice, chocolate 1051 Curries, plain boiled rice for 227 ice, coffee 1050 Curry sauce 85 ice, currant and raspberry 1048 Cushion of veal 401 ice, ginger 1043 à la St. Cloud 403 ice, pine-apple 1046 à la St. George 402 ice, strawberry 1047 Custard fritters 812 Italian,... 864 -, pastry, or cream 790 , pastry, or custard 790 Savoy. 992D strawberry ... 859 Cutlets, chicken, à la Dauphine 618 lemons filled with 856 -, grouse, à la Glengarry 635 Crimped cod, oyster sauce 220 lamb 577, 578, 611, 612 Croquante-paste 956 597-600 Croquets of lobster 317 , mutton, plain 555 macaroni 353 , mutton, bread-crumbed 556 meat or fish ... 315 pork 547 oysters ... 318 of roebuck 463 Croustade of larks ... 524 sweetbread 580 marrow 322 veal, 604-606 of quenelles 627 veal, with mushrooms 564 Cucumber for sauce 960 garnish ... 106 Dace, barbel, and roach 276 glacés 891 Damsons, to bottle 878 remoulade of 971 1000 ... , mutton ... ... ... ... jam INDEX. 509 ... ... ... > ... melon... ... No. No. Fritters, pine-apple 807 Giblet soup, thick... 141A Portuguese 813 Ginger cakes ... 771 pudding 814 cream ice 1043 Fruit jellies, iced 848 imitation of... 901 soufflés ... 819 pudding 827 tarts in general 805 Gin punch 1041 Fruits, Macédoine of 847 sling 1014 whole, in jelly 849 Glacé chestnuts 889 Frying batter 288 chocolate 776 Fry, venison ... 459 cucumbers 891 Parsley, how to 948A dried pears 882 Galantine of Poularde 932 dried fruit 881 Gallimaufried sheep's heads 423 - greengages 884 Game, black, à la royale 475 890 devilled 340 to, pine-apples 881 forcemeat for preserving 189 Glazed carrots 105 for gravy, extract of 11 Glazed onions 104 Panada 978 Gniocchi, Roman 309 purée of 121 Godiveau, an economical kind removes of 464 of forcemeat 190 stock 4 tourte of 525 Gargle, a, for sore throat 1072 Goose à l'Arlesienne 491 Garnish, asparagus peas, French braized, à la Jardinière 490 beans, small new potatoes, > green 661 brocoli, cauliflowers, Brus- roast, with sage and onion 489 sels sprouts 108 Gooseberry fool 1049 cucumber 106 jam 999 -, green peas for 107 sauce, green 51 , puree of green peas for 111 Gooseberries, to bottle 869 Gauffres, almond 753 Granito claret 1038 Flemish 751 punch, iced 927 French 752 Roman... 921 Gelatine jelly 839 -, sherry.. 1039 Genoese cake ... 757 Gravy brown 3 with almonds 758 extract of game for 11 sauce 20 64 German fritters 815 Greengages, compote of 897 frying batter 289 glacés 884 kouglauffe 740 to bottle 876 pudding 824A Green goose 661 quenelles 356 gooseberry sauce 51 salad 376 peas for garnish 107 sauce for boar's head 31 peas, plain 689 schpeischlitz... 355 peas, purée of, for garnisl: 111 soup 181 pea soup 151 Gherkins, pickled 966 ravigote sauce 57 Giblet pie 499 Greening spinach 72 soup, clear ... 141 | Grilled bones 530 ... ... ... ... shalot ... ... :::::::1::::: ... :::: 510 INDEX. ... No. Grilled cod à la Colbert 223 Ham, with aspic jelly 930 cod à la Indienne ... 226 and fowl potted 940 fowl, with puree of mush Hare, baron of, German fashion 649 rooms 623 cake, Yorkshire 513 haddock 231 jugged, 648 mackerel, with brown ,potted ... 943 butter sauce 251 roast 652 red mullets 253 -, soup 149 salmon ... 201 -, stuffing for 298 kippered salmon 330 Haricot beans, white à la Bre- sturgeon, piquante sauce 216 tonne 701 trout, epicurean sauce ... 211 - à la maître d'hôtel 700 turbot à la Vatel ... 193 | Haricot of ox-tail 391 Grouse à la Kinnaird 474 of roebuck 462 boudins of, à la Stanley 628 Hashed beef ... 526-527 cutlets à la Glengarry 635 with pickled walnuts 528 pie à la Ecossaise .. 497 mutton, plain 550 roast 663 Haunch of mutton, roast 424 salad 937 of red deer 458 soup 148 of venison, roast ... 455 gruel, to prepare 992 Head, cure for cold in the 1075 Guinea fowl 665 Herbaceous seasoning, aromatic 948 Gurnet, baked 247 | Herbs, dried ... 964 boiled 246 | Herrings, Dutch 352 fillets of 248 Hodge-podge... 157 Hop tea 1059 Haddock, baked 230 Hors-d'oeuvres 301 dried 331 | Horseradish sauce ... 78 egg sauce 229 Hot-water paste for raised pies 949 fillets 232 Hunting beef 396 grilled 1231 Hyssop tea 1067 Haggis, Scotch 438 Hair, a wash to prevent falling Iced biscuits 1053 off 1073 bombe ... Hamboro' salad 380 *) brown bread Ham, baked 454 , cream ... different methods of dress- apricot... 449 chocolate 1051 -, eggs, poached with 717 1050 -, glazed with spinach 450 currant and raspberry 1048 how to cure 734 ginger 1043 how to roast 453 pine-apple 1046 how to select 449 , strawberry 1047 84 fruits for compotes 915 Spanish, how to dress... 452. fruit jellies 848 York, how to boil 450 Plombières 1057 736 pudding à la Nesselrode 1058 Westphalia, how to dress 451 punch, granito 927 ::::: ... ... .., 1054 ... 1044 .., 1043 ... 1045 ing coffee ... ... > sauce ..O ... Welsh ... INDEX. 511 ... ... ... ... ... -, fruit, iced ... ... ... ... ... lemon ... 9 ... > ..c ... ... ... ... > 2 ... No. No Iced biscuits, Roman 928 Jellies, aspic 7 soufflé 1052 aspic, ham with 930 sponges 903 tongue with 931 Iceland moss jelly 1066 economical aspic. 8 Ices, water, different kinds of 916 black-currant 994 Ice water, apricot 923 calf's feet 838 cherry 926 currant and raspberry 845, 996 currant and raspberry 925 848 lemon ... 917 gelatine 839 melon 920 Iceland moss 1066 , orange 916 isinglas 984 peach 922 841 pine-apple 918 lemon, filled with 856 pommegrenade 919 marischino 850 -, strawberry 921 , noyeau 851 Imitation of ginger 904 , orange.. 840 Indian pooloot 328 , oranges filled with 855 pilau 327 panachee ... 854 sauce 73 pine-apple 845 Infants' food 992c punch. 853 Infusion of roses 1064 -, raspberry 995 Institution cup 1021 red currant... 993 Invalids and infants, cookery for 973 Russian 882 -, light pudding for 992B strawberry 846 Invigorating broth 981 white currant 997 Irish sandwiches 361 whole fruits in 849 stew 594A Jerusalem artichokes 698 Isinglas, how to clarify 843 à l'Italienne 699 jelly 984 John Dory 199 Italian biscuits 767 Jugged hare 648 864 Julep, mint 1018 · frying batter 291 pine-apple 1022 paste soup 167 Julienne soup 132 Polpetti 354 salad 372 Kidney pudding ... 508 sauce 23 557,558,559 soup 182 Kippered salmon grilled 330 Knickerbocker 1026 Jams and jellies ... 993 Knuckle of veal and rice soup 158 Jam, apricot 1001 Kouglauffe, German 740 damson 1000 Kiomeskys, Russian 351 gooseberry 999 -, raspberry 999A Ladies' delight 971A Jardinière 102 Lamb chops, breaded 576 soup 133 cutlets, with cucumber 577 Jellies and jams 993 à la duchesse 612 Jellies in general 838 à la princesse 611 apple 998 à la Robert 578 ::::::: ::: cream ... :::::::::::::: ::::::::: ::::: -, sheep's ... ... :::::::::: :::::::::: ... ... ... ... 512 INDEX fry ... ... ... No. Lamb, fore quarters or, roast 430 Loaves, Parisian 802 log of, boiled 432 Lobster butter 129 ribe or target of ... 431 croquets 317 saddle of, braized... 436 -, mayonaise of 934 saddle ot, a la Villeroi 437 potted ... 945 shoulder of, grilled 435 quenelles 187 shor; der of, & la Mont- salad, or mayonaise 929 teorency 435 sance 40 Lamb's teet à la Poulette 575 solloped 285 574 soup 169 head 434 Locomotive ... 1023 head gallimaufried 573 Loin of mutton 428 sweet bread, larded 613 of veal à la Crême 406 sweetbread scolloped 614 | Lord Marcus Hill's soup 168 Larnpreys, stewed... 265 Love's cartridges 1055 Lark, croustade of... 524 - wells 914 pie à la Melton and Mow Lucknows 910 bray 505 Lyonnaise sauce 90 roast 659 Lecrelets, Suisse 777 Macaroni with cream 723 Leek, Flammish 517 au gratin 724 Legs of fowls à la Wellington 619 à l'Italienne 722 of lamb, boiled 432 croquets 353 à la Bretonne 415 soup 165 di la Napolitaine 413 timbale of 520 à la Provençale 414 - timbale of, à la Florentine 725 à la Soubise... 416 | Macédoine of fruits 847 pork, boiled ... 439 - of whole fruits in jelly... 849 German fashion 440 of vegetables 101 roast 441 Mackerel, boiled 249 Leicestershire pie 731 à la maître d'hôtel 256 Lemonade 1032 grilled, with brown butter Lemon caramel 1011 sauce ... 251 filled with jelly or cream 856 soused 346 jelly 341 fillets à la maître d'hôtel 252 preserved 886 Madeleines 759 pudding 829 Magentas 909 water ice 917 Maitre d'hôtel butter 127 Leveret, civet of 647 sauce 32 Lime-flower tea 1061 sauce, economical 33 Linseed tea 1060 Maraschino jelly 850 Light paste 952 Marinade pickle, cold 299 - pudding for invalids 992B Marmalade, apple 1002 Liver and ham, forcemeat of 188 , orange ... 1003 , calf's, and bacon ... 561 | Marrow-bones 320 stuffing for roust pheasant 484 croustades 322 Loaves, duchess 761 patties ... 321 Mecca ... 763 toast à la Victoria 319 ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 514 INDEX. No. *** sauce ... Naples or finger biscuits ... 745 Orange pudding Napolitaine, à la, Raviolis 308 Neapolitan sance 59 water ice Neck of mutton, boiled... 417 Ordinary sandwiches with puree of sorrel 422 Orgeate, or almond milk of mutton, roebuck fashion 419 Orleans plums, to bottle à l'Allemande 421 Os-cheek, braized ... à l'Irlandaise 418 soup , à la Soubise 420 Ox-kidney grilled ... - of veal, larded 400 stewed venison, roast 457 Or-palates à la Florentine Night-cap 1025 curried ... Nightingale, Sæur, rice à la ... 310 Ox-tail, breaded and grilled Noik, or cushion of veal 401 haricot of Normande, turbot à la ... 194 soup Nose, to stop the bleeding of with stewed peas the 1083 | Or-tongue Nougat 754 Oysters ... of almonds 754 croquets Parisian 755 devilled small à la Chantilly 756 fried Nouilles à la Palermo 726 sauce, brown paste 954 sauce, white Novel kinds of frying batter... 290 scolloped Noyeau jelly ... 851 soup 830 100 916 365 1036 877 395 143 534 535 595 596 593 591 142 592 394 347 318 348 311 44 43 283 183 ... ... :: ... ... ... ... ... ::::::::: ::::::::: ... ... ... 162 854 184 977 978 821 741 802 755 786 192 48 ... ... Olives Omelet with kidneys with oysters with fine-herbs with Parmesan cheese with shalots ... .. soufflée ... and souffés Dnions, glazed pickled... porridge .. Portugal à l'Espagnole sauce Orangeade Orange biscuits compotes of filled with jelly flower tea 350 Palestine soup 714 Panachee jelly 715 Panada, bread 711 chicken 713 game 712 Pancakes, plain 820 Parisian cake 816 loaves 104 - nougats 967 turnover of apples 160 Parisienne, turbot à la ... 679 Parsley sauce 55 Partridges braized, with cab- 1031 bages ... 773 chartreuse of 894 roast 855 salmis, chaudfroid of 1069 stewed, celery sauce 808 with sage and onion 885 à la Béarnaise 840 à la Prince of Wales 1003 à la Victoria ... ... ... :::::::::: 485 523 655 939 634 488 633 487 186 fritters ... in syrup jelly marmalade ... 518 INDEX. ... 458 ... 9 ... No. No. Raspberry jelly 996 Roast capon . 660 Lavigote sauce 34 hams 453 sauce, green ... 57 hare 652 Raviolis à la Napolitaine 308 larks 658 soup 167A pheasant 654 Red cabbage, pickled 968 pig à la Chipolata 446 currant jelly 993 pig à la Perigueux 445 deer, haunch of pigeons 662 deer, removes of 455 partridges 655 mullets à la Chesterfield 256 quails ... 656 mullets grilled 253 rabbits... 653 mullets in papers 253 turkey ... 464 mullets with tine-herbs 254 - breast of veal 407 Rees and ruffs 657 fillet of veal... 397 F.eform chips ... 103 - loin of veal 404 - sauce 28 - neck of veal ... 398 Refreshing drink for sore throat 1074 Roebuck 461 Regence, salmon à la ... 204 cutlets of 463 Remoulade of cucumbers 971 haricot of 462 Removes in general 381 , removes of 455 of poultry and game 464 Robert sauce ... 35 of venison, red deer, roe Rolled breast of veal 408 buck ... 455 thin flank of beef 385 Restorative broth 982 Roman gniocchi 309 Ribs, or target of lamb... 431 granito 921 of beef, à la mode 388 punch iced 928 of beef, roast 382 Rose drops 1006 Rice à la Sæur Nightingale 310 infusion of 1064 plain boiled, for curries 227 Round of beef, boiled 383 border of, à la Reine 521 Ruffs and rees 657 curried 301 Rumpsteak, plain 533 Florentine fashion 306 Rusks, Brussels 749 Milanese fashion ... 305 pudding 832 Piedmontese fashion 304 Russian biscuits 779 Polish fashion 303 Charlotte 863 soufflé of 817 jelly 852 Spanish fashion 307 krömeskys 351 Turkish fashion 302 salad 374 water 985 sauce 92 and chicken ... 476 176 Richelieu sauce 63 Richmond eel-pie 733 Saddle of lamb, braizod 436 Rings, cherry 1012 of lamb à la Villeroi 437 and wreaths 794 Saddle of mutton, roast 425 Rissoles ... 314 of mutton, à la Polonaise 429 Rizzolletti 313 Saffron tea 1068 Roach, barbel, and dace 276 Sage and onion stuffing. 297 Roast black game and grouse 663 Sago, to prepare 990 ... ... ... ... .. 9 ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... soup, or tschi .. ... FOR DECEMBER. 495 DÎNER DE 14 COUVERTS. Décembre. 2 Potages. Le macaroni à la royale. Les tendons de veau à la jardiniere. 2 Poissons. Les filets de soles à la Normande. Le turbot, sauce aux câpres. 2 Relevés. Le pâté de mouton à l'Irlandaise. Les faisans piqués rôtis à la financière. 4 Entrées. Le suprême de volaille à l'écarlate. Le salmis de canards sauvages à la Provençale. Les filets de bæuf sautés à l'Espagnole. Les rissolettes de gibier à l'Italienne. SECOND SERVICE. Les bécasses. Les mauviettes. Relevés. Les petits biscuits glacés au marasquin. de soufflé à la vanille. 6 Entremets. Les choux de mer à la béchamel. Les pommes à la Portugaise La salade Italienne en bordure. Le pudding de gingembre. La gelée d'oranges en quartiers. Le nougat d'amandes à la Chantilly. 497 GLOSSARY. Allemande-Reduced or concentrated white velouté sauce, thickened with cream and yolks of egg, and seasoned with nutmeg and lemon-juice. Angelica-is a plant, the tender tubular branches of which, after being preserved in syrup, are used for the purpose of decorating entre- mets, &c. Baba-A kind of very light plum-cake. Bechamel—is velouté sauce, boiled down with cream in equal parts. This sauce takes its name from a celebrated cook. Bisque-A soup generally made with shell-fish. Blanch—To parboil : to scald vegetables, &c., in order to remove their hulls or skins, such as almonds, &c. Boudin - A delicate kind of entrée, prepared with quenelle forcemeat, or mince. Bouquet-Garnished, or faggot, consists of a handful of parsley, sis green onions, a small bay-leaf, and a sprig of thyme, neatly tied together with twine. Braize, Mirepoix, Marinade, Poele, Blanc, are various kinds of compounds, used for imparting flavour to braized meats, and also for keeping calf s-heads, poultry, &c. white, while they are being braized. Braizing-signifies a slow process of simmering, or stewing, over a smothered charcoal fire. Brioche-A species of light, spongy cake, resembling Bath buns, Caramel-Burnt sugar, occasionally used as a makeshift for colouring. Charlotte-Consists generally of thin slices of bread, steeped in clarified butter, and placed in symmetrical order in a plain mould garnished with fruit or preserve. Chartreuse of Vegetables A mixed preparation of vegetables sym. metrically and tastefully arranged in a plain mould, the interior of which is garnished with game, quails, pigeons, larks, fillets, scollops, or tendons, krc., &c. 2 K 502 INDEX. 780 1.96 ... 538 774 392 No. No Batter, Italian frying ... ... 291 Beefsteak ana vyster pudding 50€ - novel kinds of frying ... 290 Beetroot and Spanish onion Beans, broad, à la Crême ... 688 salad ... ... ... ... ... 371 - French, à la maître d'hôtel 686 Beverage, almond milk ... ... 983 -, French, preserved ... 958 Bills of Fare for every Month -, French, with fine-herbs 687 iu the Year ... ... page 454 -, white haricot, à la Brê. Biscuits, Albert ... ... ... tonne... ... ... ... ... - , apricot ... ... 775 -, white haricot, à la maître- brown bread ... 770 d'hôtel ... ... ... ... Brussels, or rusks 749 - Windsor, preserved 959 champagne ... Béchamel cream sauce ... 16 cinnamon ... ... 903 - sauce, white ... 15 cream ... ... ... 912 - turbot, à la ... ... devilled ... ... 337 Beef, aitch-bone of, boiled finger, or Naples 745 -, au gratin ... ... ... , iced ... 1053 -, collops, ... ... ... 536 Italian ... ... 767 , collops, boiled ...... 537 orange... ... 773 , fillet of, braized à la peach ... ... Milton .; 779 ; " Russian -, fillet of, larded ... ... " 389 Sicilian 778 -, fillets of, à la Napo- Victoria ... ... 781 litaine ... ... ... 390 -- Venetian ... ... 768 fillet of, à la Richelieu 391 Black-currant jelly ... 994 , fillet of, à la Soubise ... 585 Black game à la royale ... ... 475 -, thin flank of, rolled ... 385 - roast ... ... ... 663 , hashed, ... ... 526-527 Blanc-manger ... ... ... 857 hashed, with pickled Bleeding of the nose, to stop... 1083 walnuts ... ... ... ... 525 Bloaters, potted ... 525 ... ... 947 -, hunting ... ... ... 396 -- Yarmouth ... ... ... 329 , minced ... ... ... Boar's head, German sauce for 31 , mironton of ... Boiled aitch-bone of beef 384 pressed ... ... 393 -, round of beef ... 383 -, ribs of, à-la-mode ... 388 , capon ... ... ... 472 roast ribs of ... ... cod à la religieuse 224 braized roll of, à la , fowls à la cardinal 624 Béarnaise ... ... ... ... -, gurnet ... ... ... 246 ,boiled, round of ... ... 383 , haddock, egg-sauce 229 roast sirloin of ... ... 381 -, mackerel ... ... ... 249 -, rump of, stewed ... .. 387 mackerel à la maître -, spiced potted ... .. ... 944 d'hôtel ... ... ... 250 vinegaret of ... .. 541 -, leg of mutton ... ... tea 973 , rabbit and bacon... . 639 Beefsteak with anchovy butter 583 , salmon, plain ... ... 200 - à la Chateaubriand ... 582 salmon, Scotch fashion 209 - à la Française ... ... 581 -, soles ... ... ... ... 233 , epicurean ... ... ... 584 -, sturgeon à la Bourguig- - and oyster pic ... ... 500 notte ... ... 216 ... 529 Bos 386 INDEX. 503 70 594 14 -, pectoral 979 No. No. Boiled sturgeon à la cardinal... 215 Bread sauce ... ... ... ... , sturgeon à la royale ... 217 | Breast of mutton grilled ... - trout, plain ... ... ... 210 - of veal à la Chipolata ... 410 - trout à l’Aurore ... 213 of veal à la Printanière 409 -, trout, with Genoese sauce 212 | Bretby sandwiches ... ... 360 -, turbot, plain ... . 191 | Bretonne sauce ... ... ... 56 - turkey... ... . ... 467 | Brill 4 ... ... ... ... ... 198 - turkey à la Yorkshire ... 468 | Brioche-paste ... ... ... 737 Bombe, iced ... ... 1054 Broad beans à la Crême ... 688 Bon-bons ... ... 1004 Broths and stocks, how to - chocolate ... 1009 clarify ... ... ... 6 - coffee ... ... 1010 | Broths and stocks, second, eco- Bones, devilled ... ... 531 nomy of ... ... ... - grilled ... ... ... 530 Broth, chicken ... ... 976 Bonnes-bouches ... ... 357 --, invigorating ... 781 Bonne femme soup ... 161 - , mucilaginous 980 Border of rice à la Reine 521 — , mutton ... ... 155, 974 Bottle, to, apricots 874 - cherries ... ... 873 -, restorative ... ... 982 -, currants ... ... 870 - Scotch... 156 -, damsons ... 878 | Brown and Polson soufflé oud. gooseberries... 869 ding ... ... ... ... ... 992A greengages, ... 876 Brown bread biscuits ... ... .. 770 , Orleans plums 877 – bread ice ... ... ... 1044 -, peaches ... . 875 - bread pudding -, pine-apples ... ... ... 879 butter sauce -, raspberries ... ... ... 871 caper sauce ... -, strawberries ... ... colouring ... ... Boudins of fowl à la Lucullus 627 gravy ... ... ... - of grouse à la Stanley ... 628 Matelote sauce ... of pheasant à la Richelieu 626 - oyster sauce ... ... Bouillabaisse or Provençal soup 178 sauce ... ... ... Bourguignotte sauce ... ... 60 - thickening for sauces Braized celery with brown sauce 666 | Brûnoise soup ... ... fillet of beef à la Milton 392 | Brussels biscuits or rusks roll of beef à la Béarnaise 386 — sprouts ... ... 707 mutton ... 412 Batter for frying ... ... 288 ox-cheek ... 395 Bubble-and-squeak 532 loin of veal ... ... ... 405 | Burns or scalds, cure for neck of veal ... ... ... 399 Burnt almonds ... Brandy-smash ... ... ... 1015 — pistachio prâlines... 1065 Brawn sauce, cold... 30 Butter, anchovy ... ... 128 Bread-and-butter pastry 793 - , epicurean ... ... 130 Bread-crumbs ... ... 295 -, lobster... ... .. 129 - , fried ... ... ... 71-296 - maître d'hôtel ... ... 127 Bread panada ... ... 184 , melted, or butter sauce 15, 39 - pudding, plain ... 831 - , salsifis fried in ... ... 669 , pulled crisp ... ... sauce, brown 872 1076 1004 INDEX. No. 1 80 -, purée of ... " 115 " ... 222 929 Cherries, dried 887 Clarify, stocks and broths Cherry rings... ... 1012 - , syrup ... ... ... 842 - sauce ... ... 95 141 Clear giblet soup ... ... ... tartlets 799 - mock-turtle soup... ... 140 - water ... 1033 - tarragon sauce water ice ... 926 Cochineal, how to extract Chestnuts, compote of 902 colour from ... ... ... 1090 glacés ... ... 889 Cockles scolloped ... ... 287 - pudding 826 Cock-tail ... ... ... 1016 Cocky-leeky ... ... ... 159 soup ... ... ... 180 Cod, crimped, oyster sauce 220 Chevreuil sauce ... 29 fried à la Portugaise Chicken and bacon, boiled ... grilled à la Colbert 223 and ham pie ... stuffed, baked ... 219 - and rice à la Crême ... 225 - and tongue ... ... ... 479 - à la Dieppoise 221 - and tongue à la Macé- à l'Indienne ... 226 doine ... ... ... 479 224 à la religieuse ... broth ... ... 976 228 ... head baked Chickens à la belle vue ... ... Coffee, how to make 1089 à l'Inkermann 621 - bon-bons ... 1010 - à la Milanaise 478 - cream ... ... ... ... 861 à la Romaine ... 477, 625 - - cream ice 1050 - à la Tartare ... ... ... 622 - soufflé ... ... 818 cutlets à la Dauphine ... 618 Cold brown sauce ... ... ... fricassée of, à la Havelock 620 | Cold cream ... ... ... ... 1087 panada ... ... ... ... 977 - loh. entrées, or chicken salad, or mayonaise ... ster, and fish salads or may- Chiffonade soup ... ... ... 135 onaises ... ... ... .. 929 Chilblains, cure for ... ... 1079 - marinade pickle ... ... 299 Chine of pork ... ... ... 448 Colds, cooling posset for ... 992F Ching-ching ... ... ... ... 1029 - in the head, cure for ... 1075 Chipolata ragout ... ... 123 Cold-water paste for raised pies 950 Chips, Reform ... ... ... ... 103 | Collops, beef ... ... ... ... 536 Chocolate bon-bons ... ... 1009 — , scolloped ... ... ... 286 cream ... 862 - Scotch ... ... 563 - cream ice 1051 Colouring, brown ... ... 76 - glacé ... ... 776 Compiègne cake ... 739 Chops, lamb ... ... 892 -, mutton .. 554 - apricots ... ... 896 .-, pork ... cherries ... 898 ... -, venison ... chestnuts 902 Christmas pie fruits for desserts Cinnamon biscuits 908 greengages ... 897 Cintra fritters ... ... ... 810 894 oranges Civet of leveret ... ... ... 647 peaches ... ... 895 Claret granito ... ... 1038 pears ... ... 893 Clarify, how to, isinglass ... 8431 pine-apple ... 899 30 fr 929 ... 546 728 892 506 INDEX, No. 170 865 of strawberries 900 Cucumber salad ... 368 - iced fruits for ... ... 915 - à la Espagnole ... 697 Condé cakes ... ... ... ... 788 - à la poulette ... 696 Confectionary and preserving 869 Cure bacon, how to ... 735 Consommé with quenelles ... 138 - hams, how to ... 734 Cookery for invalids and infants 973 - for burns or scalds ... 1076 Cornucopia ... ... ... ... 754A - chapped hands ... ... 1086 Course, second, roasts ... ... 652 chilblains ... ... ... 1079 Crab soup ... ... ... ... colds in the head ... ... 1075 Cracked lips, cure for ... ... 1080 cracked lips in winter 1080 Cracklings ... ... ... ... 905 sprains ... ... ... 1077 Crayfish soap ... ... ... 171 the sting of a wasp or bee 1082 Cream, almond, sauce ... ... 93 tooth-ache ... ... ... 1085 - Béchamel sauce 16 warts ... ... ... ... 1081 different kinds of... ... 857 Currant, black, jelly ... ... 994 ices 1043 -, red, jelly ... ... 993 apricot ... ... ... 860-868 -, white, jelly ... ... ... 997 Bavarian ... ... 858 - water ... ... ... ... 1034 biscuits... ... 912 -, to bottle ... ... ... 870 caramel ... ... and raspberry jelly 845, 996 celestine 866 and raspberry cream ... 867 chocolate 862 - and raspberry cream ice 1048 coffee 861 and raspberry water ice 925 currant and raspberry ... 867 Curried rabbit and rice... ... 642 ice, apricot ... ... ... 1045 - rice ... ... ... ... 301 - ice, chocolate ... ... 1051 Curries, plain boiled rice for 227 - ice, coffee ... ... ... 1050 Curry sauce ... ... 85 - ice, currant and raspberry 1048 Cushion of veal ... ... 401 - ice, ginger ... ... ... 1043 - à la St. Cloud ... ... 403 - ice, pine-apple ... 1046 - à la St. George ... ... 402 - ice, strawberry ... ... 1047 Custard fritters ... ... ... 812 - Italian,... ... ... ... 864 - pastry, or cream ... 790 pastry, or custard - Savoy ... ... ... ... 992D , strawberry ... ... 859 Cutlets, chicken, à la Dauphine 618 -, lemons filled with -, grouse, à la Glengarry 635 Crimped cod, oyster sauce 220 -, lamb ... 577, 578, 611. 612 Croquante-paste ... 956 , mutton ... ... 597-600 Croquets of lobster 317 mutton, plain ... ... 555 - macaroni ... 353 mutton, bread-crumbed 556 - meat or fish ... 315 - pork ... ... ... ... 5+1 oysters ... ... 318 of roebuck ... ... 463 Croustade of larks ... 524 -, sweetbread ... ... ... 580 - marrow ... 322 veal, ... ... ... 604-606 - of quenelles ... 627 -, veal, with mushrooms 564 Cucumber for sauce 960 garnish ... ... 106 Dace, barbel, and roach ... 276 glacés ... ... ... 891 Damsons, to bottle ... ... 878 , remoulade of ... ... 971 - jam ... ... ... ... 1000 856 508 INDEX. 617 AI " " 248 mushrooms well - of haddock "" 232 No. Pare, bills of, for every Forcemeat of liver and ham for month in the year (page) 454 raised pies ... ... ... ... Fennel sauce ... ... ... 52 - of veal, quenelle ... ... Flammish leek ... ... ... 517 - of whitings, quenelle ... Florentine fashion for rice ... 306 Fore-quarter of lamb, roast ... Floster ... ... .. ... ... 1028 Fowls, boiled, à la cardinal .. 624 Fillet of heef, larded ... ... 389 - boudins of, à la Lucullus 627 - à la Napolitaine ... ... 390 - , capilotada of ... ... 651 - à la Richelieu ... ... 391 -, escalopes of, and cu- à la Soubise ... . 585 cumber ... ... ... ... - of fish fried in batter ... 243 — , fillets of, with asparagus of fowl with asparagus peas ... ... ... ... 616 peas ... ... -, grilled, with purée of of gurnet .. ... ... 623 -, legs of, à la Wellington 619 of mackerel à la maître- mayonaise of, ... ... 933 d'hôtel ... ... ... ... 252 — , quenelles of, a la su- of mutton ... ... 601, 602 préme 692 of partridges à la Thackeray 636 -, supréme of, à la royale 615 of salmon à l'Indienne. 205 — à la Romanie ... ... 625 - à la Maréchale ... 206 Fowl and ham, potted ... ... 940 - à la Ravigotte ... 208 -, wild ... ... 645, 646, 650 - à la Tartare ... 207 French beans, à la maitre- of sole ... ... ... ... 241 d'hôtel ... ... ... 686 of sole, fried ... ... 242 - beans, with fine-herbs ... 687 of sole, à la Rouennaise 245 -, beans preserved ... ... 958 of sole, à la Tartare ... 244 French gauffres ... ... ... 752 of sole, mayonaise of ... - salad ... ... ... .. 370 of trout ... ... 214 - timbale ... ... ... 732 of turbot 197 Fricassée chaudfroid ... ... 938 of whiting à la Horly 261 Fricassée of chickens à la Have- Financière ragout ... ... 124 lock ... ... ... ... ... 620 - sauce ... ... ... 24 - of rabbit ... ... ... 637 Fine-herbs sauce ... ... 74 Fried bread crumbs ... 71, 296 Finger, or Naples biscuits 745 Fried cod à la Dieppoise ... 221 Fish, croquets of ... ... 315 à la Portugaise ... 222 - pickled ... ... ... 344 fillets of fish in batter 243 - salad or mayonaise fillets of sole 242 - sandwiches ... ... 362 oysters ... 311 -, scollops of ... ... potatoes ... 706A - pie à la Ste. Teresa 514 salmon roe ... 316 - pie à la Ste. Ursula 515 soles 234 Flemish gauffres ... ... ... 751 | Fritters, apple 806 - salad ... ... ... 375 , cintra ... 810 Food, infants' ... ... ... 9920 custard 812 Forcemeat, economical, or Godi- , German 815 veau ... ... ... ... ... -, orange ... 808 - for preserving game ... -, peach ... ... 819 935 929 INDEX. 509 891 932 423 4 No. No. Fritters, pine-apple 807 Giblet soup, thick... ... 141A - Portuguese ... ... 813 Ginger cakes... ... 771 - , pudding ... 814 - cream ice ... ... 1043 Fruit jellies, iced ... 848 - , imitation of... 901 souſés ... ... 819 - pudding 827 - tarts in general 805 Gin punch ... 1041 Fruits, Macédoine of 847 sling ... ... 1014 — whole, in jelly ... ... 849 Glacé chestnuts 889 Frying batter ... ... 288 --, chocolate 776 Fry, venison ... ... ... 459 -, cucumbers - Parsley, how to ... 948A -, dried pears ... 882 Galantine of Poularde ... -, dried fruit ... 881 Gallimaufried sheep's heads ... --, greengages 884 Game, black, à la royale ... 475 -, melon... 890 - , devilled ... ... ... 340 --, to, pine-apples 881 -, forcemeat for preserving 189 | Glazed carrots ... 105 for gravy, extract of 11 Glazed onions . 104 Panada ... ... ... 978 Gniocchi, Roman ... 309 - purée of ... ... ... 121 | Godiveau, an economical kind -, removes of ... ... ... 464 of forcemeat ... ... ... 190 - stock ... ... ... -, tourte of ... ... ... 525 Gargle, a, for sore throat ... 1072 Goose à l'Arlesienne ... ... 491 Garnish, asparagus peas, French --, braized, à la Jardinière 490 beans, small new potatoes, -, green ... ... ... ... 661 brocoli, cauliflowers, Brus- - roast, with sage and onion 489 sels sprouts ... ... ... 108 Gooseberry fool ... ... ... 1049 - , cucumber ... ... ... 106 jam ... ... ... ... 999 -, green peas for ... 107 ce, green --, purée of green peas for 111 Gooseberries, to bottle ... 869 Gauffres, almond ... 753 Granito claret ... ... 1038 - Flemish ... ... ... - punch, iced ... ... 927 - French ... ... ... 752 - Roman... ... ... 921 Gelatine jelly ... ... 839 sherry ... ... 1039 Genoese cake... ... Gravy brown ... -- with almonds 758 - extract of game for - sauce ... .. 20 , shalot ... ... 64 German fritters ... ... 815 Greengages, compote of 897 frying batter ... ... 289 glacés ... ... ... 884 - kouglauffe ... ... ... , to bottle ... ... 876 pudding ... ... ... 824A 824A Green goose ... ... ... ... 661 quenelles ... ... - gooseberry sauce ... ... - peas for garnish ... ... 107 - sauce for boar's head 31 - peas, plain ... ... 689 schpeischlitz... 355 - peas, purée of, for garnish: soup ... ... 181 - pea soup ... ... 151 Gherkins, pickled ... 966 ravigote sauce Giblet pie ... .. 72 .. 499 Greening spinach ... ... soup, clear ... 141 | Grilled bones 530 : :1111111117::::::::::::: 51 751 757 740 ... 51 - salad ... ... 356 b... 376 :::::::::: 111 57 514 INDEX. 830 100 916 365 1036 877 395 143 534 535 595 596 593 591 142 592 394 347 318 348 311 754 755 No. 1 Naples or finger biscuits ... 745 Orange pudding ... ... Napolitaine, à la, Raviolis ... 308 sauce ... ... ... Neapolitan sance ... ... ... 59 - water ice ... ... Neck of niutton, boiled ... 417 | Ordinary sandwiches ... -, with purée of sorrel 422 Orgeate, or almond milk - of mutton, roebuck fashion 419 Orleans plums, to bottle à l'Allemande ... ... 421 Ox-cheek, braized ... ... ... à l'Irlandaise ... ... 418 soup ... ... ... ... - à la Soubise 420 Ox-kidney grilled ... ... ... - of veal, larded ..., ... 400 - stewed ... ... ... -, venison, roast ... 457 Or-palates à la Florentine ... Night-cap ... ... ... ... 1025 - curried ... ... Nightingale, Sæur, rice à la ... 310 Ox-tail, breaded and grilled ... Noik, or cushion of veal ... 401 - haricot of ... ... ... Normande, turbot à la ... ... 194 — soup ... Nose, to stop the bleeding of with stewed peas ... the 1083 Ox-tongue Ox-tongue ... ... Nougat ... ... ... ... ... Oysters ... ... ... ... - of almonds ... ... ... 754 - croquets - Parisian ... ... ... devilled ... - small à la Chantilly fried ... ... Nouilles à la Palermo ... sauce, brown - paste ... ... ... sauce, white Novel kinds of frying batter ... scolloped Noyeau jelly ... ... ... ... 851 soup ... ... Olives ... ... ... ... 350 Palestine soup Omelet with kidneys ..." 714 Panachee jelly with oysters . 715 Panada, bread -- with fine-herbs 711 - chicken - with Parmesan cheese ... 7131 game ... with shalots ... 712 Pancakes, plain ... - soufflée... ... 820 Parisian cake - and soufflés ... ... ... 816 - loaves ... ... ... ... Onions, glazed 104 - nougats ... ... - pickled ... ... 967 – turnover of apples ... - porridge ... 160 Parisienne, turbot à la ... ... - Portugal à l'Espagnole 679 Parsley sauce - sauce ... ... 55 Partridges braized, with Orangeade ... .. 1031 bages ... ... ... ... Orange biscuits .. 773 chartreuse of ... ... compotes of .. ... ... 894 — - roast roast .. ... ... ... filled with jelly 855 salmis, chaudfroid of flower tea ... 1069 stewed, celery sauce fritters ... ... 808 - with sage and onion in syrup ... ... 885 - à la Bearnaise ... ... ... 840 - à la Prince of Wales marmalade ... ... ... 1003 - à la Victoria ... ... 43 283 183 162 854 184 977 978 821 741 8112 755 786 192 523 655 939 ::::::: 516 INDEX. ::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::: 516 796 No. No. Pilau, Indian ... ... ... 327 Potatoes à la Crême au gratin 705 --, Turkish ... ... 326 , new, à la Crême ... ... 704 Pine-apple, compote of ... 899 à la duchesse ... ... 705D - cream ice ... 1044 à l'Italienne 705F fritters 807 à la Lyonnaise ... ... 705A jelly ... ... 844 à la maître d'hôtel ... 703 julep ... 1022 à la Provençale ... 705B pudding 828 baked ... ... 705E water ... 1037 fried ... ... 706A - water, ice ... 918 mashed ... 706 - to bottle ... 879 croquets 7050 - to glacé ... 881 -, purée of 114 Piquante sauce ... ... 22 - flour soufflé ... 816 Pistachio, prâlines, burnt ... 1005 pie ... ... Plain pancakes ... ... ... 821 salad ... ... 7056 Plaits ... ... ... ... ... -- soup ... ... 154 Plombières ice 1057 Potted beef, spiced... Plum cake ... ... ... ... 746 - bloaters 947 - pudding ... ... ... 834 fowl and ham 940 sauce 94 hare ... ... 943 -, Orleans, to bottle 877 lobster ... 945 Poached eggs, with anchovy pheasant ... ... 942 toast 716 shrimps ... ... , with ham ... ... 717 snipes, Irish fashion 503 Poivrade sauce ... 19 - tongue ... ... ... 941 Polish cakes ... ... .... Poularde, galantine of ... 932 or baba 738 Poulette sauce ... ... 36 fashion for rice 303 Poultry, purée of ... ... 120 Polpetti, Italian ... 354 - , removes of ... ... ... 464 Pomegranate water 1040 Pound-cake 750 - water ice ... 919 Prawns ... ... ... 349 Poney punch 1028 - soup ... ... ... 172 Pooloot, Indian 324 Preserve, to, Angelica green ... Poor-man's sauce ... 61 Preserved artichokes ... ... 965 Pork, chine of 448 French beans 959 chops ... ... 546 - lemons ... ... 886 cutlets ... ... 547 mushrooms ... ... ... 962 curried... ... 549 peas, plain ... ... ... 957 leg of, boiled truffles ... ... , roast ... ... 441 -- vegetables, various kinds German fashion ... ... 440 957 , spare-rib of, roast ... 442 -- Windsor beans ... ... 959 -, how to pickle ... ... 443 - young carrots ... ... 961 Porridge, onion ... ... ... 160 | Preserving and Confectionary 869 Portugal onions à l'Espagnole 679 | Pressed beef ... ... ... 393 Portuguese fritters ... ... 813 | Prince of Wales' Canapees ... 336 Port-wine sauce for wild fowl 46 - sandwiches ... ... ... Posset, cooling, for colds ... 992F\ - sauce ... ... ... ... 946 795 ::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::: 880 439 963 of INDEX. 517 69 178 506 872 Quene 138 ... 992B 837 507 187 830 No. No. Profitrolles ... ... ... ... 762 Purée of celery ... ... ... 119 Provençale sauce ... ... ... - of chestnuts ... ... ... 115 - soup, or bouillabaisse ... - of game ... ... ... 121 Puddings, different kinds of ... 822 - of green peas for garnish 111 - , apple ... ... ... of potatoes ... 114 beefsteak and oyster - of poultry ... .. 120 -, brown bread 822 - of sorrel ... ... ... 119A -, plain bread ... ... 831 of spinach ... ... 112 , cabinet ... ... 825 - of sprue asparagus 113 , chestnut ... ... 826 - of turnips ... ... 118 à la Chipolata .. 509 fritters ... ... ... 814 Quails, roast .. ... ... 656 -, German ... .. ... 824a Queen's cakes ... ... 761 -, ginger ... ... Quenelles, consommé with ... -, iced, à la Nesselrode ... 1058 -, croustade of 627 -, kidney ... 508 - of fowl, à la suprême ... 629 -, lemon ... ... 829 -, forcemeat of veal ... 185 -, light, for invalids ,forcemeat of whitings ... 186 -, muffin... ... German 356 -, mutton ... , lobster ... ... ... -, orange , pine-apple ... 828 Rabbits, boiled, and bacon 639 , plum ... 834 -, curried, and rice... 642 , raspberry roll 836 fried in batter ... 641 rusk ... ... - roast ... ... ... 653 sausage ... ... ... 511 à la Tartare ... 638 semolina 823 fricassee of ... 637 snipe, à l'epicurean ... 510 -, with fine-herbs 640 soufflé, Brown & Polson 992A Rachel, salad à la ... 378 suet ... ... ... ... 293 | Ragoût, Chipolata ... ... 123 tapioca ... ... ... 835 - , financière ... .... 124 Victoria ... ... ... 824 - Milanese ... ... 126 - Yorkshire ... ... ... 292 Toulouse ... ... 125 Puddings and pies, meat ... 495 Raised pies, cold-water paste --, wine sauce for ... ... 98 for ... ... 950 Puff-paste patties ... ... 323 - pies, hot water paste for 949 - tartlets ... ... 800 - pies, forcemeat of liver Puffs, Spanish 811) and ham for ... ... ... 188 Pulled crisp bread 332 - pies and timbales ... 728 Punch drops ... ... 1008 Raspberries, to bottle ... ... 871 - gin ... ... 1041 Raspberry jam ... ... ... 999A - granito, iced ... 927 - jelly ... ... ... ... 995 - jelly ... ... ... 853 - roll pudding ... ... 836 --, milk ... ... ... 1042 sauce ... ... ... 96 - poney ... ... ... 1024 and currant cream -, Roman, iced 928 cream ice ... ... Purée of Artichokes 117 water ice of carrots 116 - jelly ... ... ... ... 845 832 :::::::::::::: 867 1048 925 618 INDEX No. 458 253 653 No. Raspberry jelly ... ... ... 996 Roast capon ... ... ... 660 Ravigote sauce ... ... ... 34 - hams ... ... ... 453 - sauce, green ... ... ... 57 bare ... ... ... ... 652 Raviolis à la Napolitaine 308 - larks 658 - soup ... ... . 167A pheasant ... ... 654 Red cabbage, pickled ... ... 968 pig à la Chipolata 446 currant jelly ... ... 993 pig à la Perigueux 445 deer, haunch of ... ... pigeons 662 deer, removes of ... ... partridges 655 - mullets à la Chesterfield quails 656 - muliets grilled ... ... rabbits... ... - mullets in papers ... 253 turkey ... ... 464 mullets with fine-herbs 254 breast of veal 407 Rees and ruffs ... ... ... 657 fillet of veal ... 397 Peform chips ... ... ... ... 103 toin of veal ... 404 - sauce ... ... - neck of veal ... 398 Refreshing drink for sore throat 1074 | Roebuck 461 Régence, salmon à la ... .. 204 cutlets of ... 463 Remoulade of cucumbers ... 971 haricot of ... 462 Removes in general ... ... 381 -, removes of ... ... 455 of poultry and game ... 464 Robert sauce ... ... 35 - of venison, red deer, roe Rolled breast of veal 408 buck ... ... ... ... 455 - thin flank of beef 385 Restorative broth ... ... 982 Roman gniocchi ... 309 Ribs, or target of lamb... ... - granito ... ... 921 - of beef, à la mode ... 388 - punch iced ... 928 of beef, roast ... ... 382 Rose drops ... ... 1006 Rice à la Sæur Nightingale ... 310 - , infusion of ... 1064 -, plain boiled, for curries 227 Round of beef, boiled 383 border of, à la Reine ... 521 Ruffs and rees ... 657 curried ... ... ... 301 Rumpsteak, plain ... 533 Florentine fashion ... 306 Rusks, Brussels 749 Milanese fashion ... ... 305 | -- pudding ... 832 Piedmontese fashion 304 Russian biscuits 779 Polish fashion ... ... 303 — Charlotte 863 -, soufflé of ... ... ... 817 - jelly ... ... -, Spanish fashion ... 307 krömeskys ... ... 351 - Turkish fashion 302 salad ... ... ... 374 water ... ... 985 sauce ... ... ... ... 92 -- and chicken ... 476 - soup, or tschi ... ... Richelieu sauce ... 63 Richmond eel-pie ... ... 733 Saddle of lamb, braized Rings, cherry 1012 - of lamb à la Villeroi ... 437 - , and wreaths ... 794 Saddle of mutton, roast ... 425 Rissoles ... ... ... 314 of mutton, à la Polonaise 429 Rizzolletti ... ... 313 Saffron tea ... ... ... ... Roach, barbel, and dace ... 276 | Sage and onion stuffing ... ... 297 Roast black game and grouse 663 | Sago, to prepare ... ... ... 990 ::::::::: 431 ::::::: :::::::::: :::::::::::::::::::::: 852 INDEX. 519 No. No. 17 378 49 ! 50 97 369 ! : : : : : : : EN!!!! Spanish .. 62 632 68 Salads in general ... ... ... 366 Sauce, Allemande ... - à la Rachel ... .... -, anchovy ... beet-root and Spanish -, apple ... ... onion ... ... ... ... ... 371 -, arrowroot ... - Cazanova ... ... 377 Aurora ... ---, chicken, lobster and fish 929 , Bourguignotte ... -, cucumber ... -, bread ... ... ... English ... 366, 367, 368 brown ... ... ... Flemish ... ... 375 brawn, cold ... French ... ... 370 brown thiekening for German ... 376 Bretonne grouse 937 brown butter Hamboro' 380 brown caper ... . Italian 372 brown Matelote potato ... ... 7056 brown oyster ... ... -, Russian ... ... 374 butter, or melted butter 373 -, cardinal ... ... ... vegetable ... ... 379 Cazanova ... Salmis, chaudfroid of partridges 939 celery ... ... of pheasant ... ... ... Chateaubriand ... sauce ... ... ... ... cherry ... ... Salmon, boiled Scotch fashion 209 chevreuil ... , devilled ... ... 339 clear tarragon , grilled ... 201 cream almond -, grilled, kippered ... ... 330 cream Béchamel -, pickled ... ... ... 345 , cucumber for -, plain ... ... ... ... 200 curry... à la Régence ... ... 204 devil's ... ... ... à la Tartare Dutch ... ... – fillets à l'Indienne 205 , D'Uxelles ... fillets à la Maréchale 206 -, egg ... fillets à la Ravigote ... 208 - economical maître d'hôtel - fillets à la Tartare 207 -, economical white ... - Matelote of ... ... 203 -, fennel ... ... ... Mayonaise of ... ... 936 financière Mazarine of 522 fine-herbs ... -, roe fried ... 316 Genoese ... Salsifis à la Crême 668 German, for r boar's fried in batter 669 head ... ... Sandwiches, Adelaide 358 -, green gooseberry -, for ball-supper's 364 green ravigote Bretby ham ... ... 362 horseradish Irish ... Indian ... ... ordinary 365 Italian ... Prince's 363 lobster ... ... Victoria 359 Lyonnaise ... Sardines 342 —-, maître d'hôtel 16 960 85 23 -02 :::::::::::::::::::::::::: 2 31 51 57 360 84 78 fish ... 361 73 :::::::: 23 INDEX. 523 125 325 402 543 ||||| 963 No. No. Tongue, potted ... ... ... 941 Veal, breast of, roast ... ... 407 Tooth-ache, cure for ... ... 1085 breast of, rolled ... ... 408 Toulouse ragoût ... ... breast of, à la Chipolata 410 Tourte, German, of apricots ... 785 , breast of, à la Printanière 409 of Godiveau ... ... 525 cake, Yorkshire ... ... 512 Transparents ... ... 913 noix or cushion of ... 401 Trifles, savoury ... -, cushion of, à la St. Cloud 403 Tripe, baked ... ... 545 -, cushion of, à la St. George -, boiled ... ... 542 cutlets à la Financière... 604 fried ... ... cutlets à la Maintenon ... 605 , stewed 544 cutlets à la Russe ... 606 Trout à l'Aurore ... 213 cutlets with mushroom 564 , grilled, Epicurean sauce 211 fillet of, roast ... ... 397 - plain boiled ... ... ... 210 forcemeat of, quenelle 185 with Genoese sauce 212 , loin of, braized ... ... 405 Trout fillets .... 214 loin of, roast ... ... 404 Truffles à la Piémontaise 678 loin of, à la Crême ... 406 - eggs with ... ... 710 , mince, with poached eggs 565 - large, à la Serviette 677 ,neck of, braized ... ... 399 preserved ... ... ... -, neck of, larded ... ... 400 sauce ... ... ... 65 -, neck of, roast ... ... 398 Tschi, or Russian soup ... ... 176 - stock, white ... ... 2 Tunny ... ... 341 - stuffing or seasoning 294 Turbot, plain boiled, 191 - tea ... ... ... ... 978 - , grilled à la Vatel 193 -, tendons of, and spinach 609 - à la Béchamel ... -, tendons of, curried ... 610 - à la Normande ... 194 Veal and ham pie ... ... ... 501 à la Parisienne ... 192 / Veal and rice soup ... ... 158 with cream au gratin 195 Vegetables, how to dress ... 666 - fillets ... ... 197 - , various kinds of, preserved 957 - Turin cakes ... ... 911 -, Macédoine of ... ... 101 Turkey, boiled ... 467 | Vegetable salads ... ... 379 -, boiled à la Yorkshire 468 - -marrow ... ... 694, 695 -, roast ... ... ... 464 179 - à la Chipolata ... ... 465 Venetian biscuits ... ... 768 a la Provençale ... ... 466 Venison chops ... 460 Turkish fashions for rice ... 302 firy ... ... 459 - Pilau ... ... ... ... 326 -, haunch of, roast ... 455 Turnips, glaces with 692 -, neck of, roast ... 457 - , purée of ... ... ... 118 -, removes of ... ... 455 -, soup ... ... ... ... 164 sauce ... ... 47 ... Tutti-frutti ... ... ... 1056 shoulder of, roast 456 Typhus fever, Continental drink Vermicelli soup ... 166 in treatment of ... ... ... 1084 | Victoria biscuits ... - cake ... ... 742 Various kinds of preserved pudding ... 824 vegetables ... ... ... 957 sandwiches ... 359 l'atel, grilled turbot à la ... 193 soup ... ... 173 | :::::::::::::::::::: 196 - soup ... ... ... 781 Francatelli's Cook's Guide Advertiser. WILLIAM S. ADAMS AND SON, IRONMONGERS By Appointments to the Queen and H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, and also to tka Principal London Clubs. OTAN MUNIRATIFTIT 4 ft. Screen, with Hot Closet, £8 15s. In No. 1 Specification. ENGINEERS AND MANUFACTURERS, PATENTEES OF ELECTRIC BELLS FOR DOMESTIC USE (Breguet's Indicator System), 57 HAYMARKET, AND 14 NORRIS STREET, S.W. WORKS :- MARLBOROUGH ROW, MARSHALL STREET, W. Illustrated Catalogues, with Prices for the several Departments ..of Business, forwarded on Application. FRANCATELLI'S COOK'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. William S. Adams and Son, 57 Haymarket, and 14 Norris Street, S.W. A co on INN Pot ... À 6 No. I. SPECIFICATION—continued. £ 5. d. £ s. d. Amount brought up 55 2 9 Amount brought up 65 66 6 Iron Saucepans, in sizes.. 0 14 6 1 Dozen Tartlette Pans ... 0 1 0 2 Iron Saucepans with Dozen Mince Pie Pans ... 0 Steamers ; 1 each 6 quarts i Fish Slice... ... ... ... 0 and 8 quarts... ... ... 017 6 1 Bread Rasp ... ... ... 0 1 Iron Tea Kettle ... ... 0 6 0 1 Palette Knife ... ... ... 0 2 Wire Frying Baskets, at 1 Egg Whisk ... ... ... 0 3/6 and 4/6... ... ... 0 1 Egg Slice... ... .. 1 Block Tin Colander ... ... 0 1 Pewter Freezing Pot, 3 2 Best Tin Fish Kettles, in quarts, with stops to sizes, at 7/0 and 10/6... 0 17 cover ... ... ... ... 1 4 0 3 Baking Sheets, in sizes ... 0 12 1 Spatula for Pewter Freezing 1 Box Plain Round Cutters 0 4 0 ... ... ... ... 0 5 0 1 Box Fluted Round Cutters 0 5 6 1 Neapolitan Ice Spoon ... 0 6 6 1 Box Fancy Cutters ... ... 0 4 1 Wooden Freezing Pail ... 0 7 6 1 Paste Jagger ... ... ... 0 1 Ice Pudding Mould ... 1 1 Pair Paste Nippers ... ... 0 10 1 Marble Mortar 1 15 0 1 Box Vegetable Cutters ... 6 1 Hardwood Pestle for Marble 1 Wire Basket for Salad ... 0.4 6 Mortar ... ... ... ... 0 5 6 1 Spice Box ... ... ... 1 Weighing Machine and Set 1 Seasoning Box ... ... ... 0 6 6 of Weights, to weigh 28 lbs. 1 7 0 1 Herb Tray ... ... ... 1 Jelly Bag and Stand 1 Bread Grater ... ... ... 0 1 6 4 Hair Sieves, in sizes 1 Spoon Drip ... ... 18 6 1 Brass Wire Sieve 3 Copper Dishing-up Spoons 12 6 2 Tammy Cloths 12 Tinned Iron Dishing-up 1 Flour Tub Spoons, in sizes ... ... 0 6 0 1 Rolling Pin ... ... 2 Block Tin Stock Ladles ... 0 5 0 1 1 Water Can ... ... ... 3 French Vegetable Scoops, at 6 Tinned Meat Hooks ... 0 1/9 ... ... ... ... 0 5 3 1 Corkscrew ... ... ... 0 1 Flour Dredger ... ... ... 0 1 6 1 Sheet French Roll Tins ... 0 1 Sugar Dredger... ... ... 0 2 0 1 Knife for opening Preserves 0 2 1 Tin Funnel ... ...... 0 1 Pair highly-finished Wafer 3 Block Tin Gravy Strainers, Irons ... ... ... ... 1 5 0 in sizes .. 1 Pair Gauffre Irons ... ... 0 7 1 Block Tin Raised Pie 1 Coal Scuttle ... ... ... 0 6 1 Kitchen Fender ... ... 1 2 0 1 Set Fire Irons ... ... ... 014 6 Carried up ... ... 65 6 6 | 1 Best Town made Coffee Mill 1 1 6 £79 15 6 ... 0 er eos Borreros ARA NNA A Aer cover oco no occo. O OOO OOO OOO OOOOOO os ver NN ..: ... 0 5 3 | Mould ... ... ... ... ... ... 0 7 6 | " For Illustrations, see pages 8-18 William S. Adams and Son, 57 Haymarket, and 14 Norris Street, S.W. [See next page. FRANCATELLI'S COOK'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. William S. Adams and Son, 57 Haymarket, and 14 Norris Street, s.w. No. II. SPECIFICATION—continued. £ . d. £ 3. d. Amount brought up 32 7 9 Amount brought up 38 3 3 1 Wire Frying Basket... ... 0 4 6 3 Block Tin Gravy Strainers 0 5 3 1 Block Tin Colander ... 0 4 6 1 Dozen Tartlette Pans ... 0 1 6 2 Best Tin Fish Kettles, at Dozen Mince Pie Pans ... 0 1 0 7/0 and 10/6 ... ... i Bread Rasp ... ... ... 0 2 0 3 Block Tin Ba heets 9 6 1 Egg Whisk ... ... ... 0 1 6 1 Box Plain Round Cutters 0 3 6 1 Pewter Freezing Pot ... 0 16 6 1 Box Fluted Cutters ... ... ( 4 6 1 Spatula ... ... ... ... 0 5 0 1 Box Fancy Cutters ... ... 0 4 6 1 Wooden Freezing Pail ... 0 6 6 1 Paste Jagger ... ... ... 16 1 Marble Mortar ... ... 1 100 1 Pair Paste Nippers ... ... 0 1 0 1 Hardwood Pestle ... ... 0 5 6 1 Spice Box ... ... 1 Weighing Machine and Set 1 Seasoning Box... ... ... 0 6 6 i of Weights to weigh 14 1 Herb Tray " ... ... . ... 0 0 5 0 ..... ... ... ... 1 1 0 1 Bread Grater ... ... ... 0 1 3 4 Hair Sieves ... ... 1 Spoon Drip ... ... ... 01 1 Brass Wire Sieve ... ... 0 4 0 12 Iron Spoons, in sizes ... 0 6 0 1 1 Water Can an ... ... ... 0 7 6 2 Block T'in Stock Ladles, at 6 Meat Hooks 2 /0 and 2/5. ... ... 0 4 6 1 Tammy Cloth...' ... 1 Box Vegetable Cutters ... 0 6 6 1 Jelly Bag and Stand 1 Fish Slice... ... ... ... 0 1 6 i Corkscrew ... ... ... 0 1 Egg Slice ... ... ... ... O 1 Sheet Roll Tins . ... ... 0 1 6 3 Vegetable Scoops, at 1/9 0 5 3 | I Washhand Bowl 1 Flour Dredger ... ... ... 0 1 6 1 Cinder Shir 1 Cinder Shovel ... ... ... 0 3 1 Sugar Dredger... ... ... 0 2 0 1 1 Best Town-made Coffee 1 Tin Funnel ... ... ... 0 0 6 Mill ... .. 0 17 6 Carried up ... ... 38 3 3 £45 14 0 lbs. ME mm 8 ft. 9 in. Wooden Meat Screen, lined with Tin, 31. 58. In No. III. Specification For Nlustrations, see pages 8-12. William S. Adams and Son, 57 Haymarket, and 14 Norris Street, S.W. [See next page FRANCATELLI'S COOK'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. William S. Adams and Son, 57 Haymarket, and 14 Norris Street, S.W. OLDTI ALTE @ Mortar and Pestle Scales and Weights Wire Frying Basket mw110 MINT 1. Ice Mould, 285. 6d. 2. Ice Mould, 245. 3. Ice Mould, 328. 4. Ice Mould, 153.6L mo Meat Gauffre Wafer Cleaver, Irons. Trons. Ice Spatula. Freezing Pail and Pot. Paste Cutters Tobing Needle Meat Splt with Holdfast. Cradle Spit THE BEST MODERN COOKERY BOOKS. 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