THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY
ASTOR, LENOX AND TILDEN FOUNDATIONS
*
*
FROM THE LIBRARY OF
GEORGE H. SARGENT
LONG “THE BIBLIOGRAPHER” OF
THE BOSTON TRANSCRIPT
I 931



ANNEX



motor


1


TIITTITURA



1. Loin bestend
2. Loin chump end
3. Fillet.
4. Hind Knuckle
tiap
5 Ebre knickle..
6. Neek: best end.
7. Neck:scrag end
8. Blade bone.
9. Breast: best end.
10. Breast briskut end.
28
I The Spráštrib. 2Hand 3 Billy or Spring. 4 ForeLoin.5 Hind Lain.6Leg.
1 Lev.
Nuk best and
2. Loin best end 5. Neck scrag end,
3 Loin chump end. 6... Shoulder
7. Breast
A Chine is two Loins.
Saddle is a Necks


1
TILDER KOONDATIONS
**


AMERICAN
DOMESTIC COOKERY,
FORMED ON
PRINCIPLES OF ECONOMY,
1
FOR THE USE OF
PRIVATE FAMILIES.
BY AN EXPERIENCED HOUSEKEEPER,
ILLUSTRATED BY
NINE ENGRAVINGS.
TO WHICH IS ADDED
THE COMPLETE FAMILY BREWER
.
NEW-YORK:
PUBLISHED BY EVERT DUYCKINCK,
NO. 68 WATER-STREET.
1823.


THE NEW YORK
PUBLIC LIBRARY
542368A
ASTOR, LENCX AND
TILDEN FOUNDATIONS
R*
1931
YOSEPH C, SPEAR, PRINTER, NO. 2 DEY-STREET.


CONTENTS.
.
.
.
-
.
.
Miscelleneous observations for the
use of the mistress of a family 1 to 21
Directions for Carving,
21-
Fish,
29-
Meats,
47. -103
Poultry, Game, &c.
104 -119
Soups and Gravies,
119 - 135
Sauces, &c.
135 -149
Pies, Puddings, and Pastry, 149. -189
Vegetables,
189 -198
Pickles,
198204
Sweet Dishes, Preserves, Sweet-
meats, &c.
204-246
Cakes, Bread, &c.
2460 -268
Home-brewery, Wines, &c. 268 -279
Dairy, and Poultry,
279-
Cookery for the sick,
296-310
Cookery for the poor,
310-313
Various useful Receipts
313__320
Directions to servants,
320 -327
General Index,
329
349

-296


?


MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS
FOR THE USE OF
THE MISTRESS OF A FAMILY.
IN every rank, those deserve the greatest praise,
who best acquit themselves of the duties which their
station requires. Indeed, this line of conduct is not a
matter of choice but of necessity, if we would maintain
the dignity of our character as rational beings,
In the variety of female acquirements, though do-
mestic occupations stand not so high in esteem as they
formerly did, yet, when neglected, they produce much
human misery. There was a time when ladies knew
nothing beyond their own family concerns ; but in the
present day there are many who know nothing about
them. Each of these extremes should be avoided : but
is there no way to unite in the female character, cul-
tivation of talents and habits of usefulness? 'Happily
there are still great numbers in every situation, whose
example proves that this is possible. Instances may
be found of ladies in the higher walks of life, who
condescend to examine the accounts of their house.
steward; and, by overlooking and wisely directing the
expenditure of that part of their husband's income
which falls under their own inspection, avoid the in-
conveniences of embarrassed circumstances. How
much more necessary, then, is domestic knowledge
; in those whose limited fortunes press on their atten-
tion considerations of the strictest economy! There
ought to be a material difference in the degree of care
which a person of a large and independent estate be.
stows on money-concerns, and that of a person in con-
fined circumstances : yet both may very commendably
A 2


6
1
employ some portion of their time and thoughts on this
subject. The custom of the times tends in some meas-
ure to abolish the distinctions of rank; and the educa-
tion given to young people, is nearly the same in all :
but though the leasure of the higher may be well de-
voted to different accomplishinients; the pursuits of those ,
in a middle line, if less ornamental, would better se-
cure their own happiness and that of others connected
with them. We sometimes bring up children in a man-
ner calculated rather to fit them for the station we
wish, than that which it is likely they will actually
possess ; and it is in all cases worth the while of pa-
rents to consider whether the expectation or hope of
raising their offspring above their own situation be well
founded.
The cultivation of the understanding and disposition,
however, is not here alluded to ; for a judicious in-
provement of both, united to firm and early taught
religious principles, would enable the happy possessor
of these advantages to act well on all occasions ; nor
would young ladies find domestic knowledge a bur-
then, or inconsistent with higher attainments, if the ru.
diments of it were inculcated at a tender age, when
activity is so pleasing. If imployment be tiresome to a
healthy child, the fault must be traced to habits which,
from many cáuses, are not at present favourable to the
future conduct of women. It frequently happens that
before impressions of duty are made on the mind, or,
namental education commences; and it ever after takes
the lead : thus, what should only be the embellishment
becomes the main business of life. There is no oppor-
tunity of attaining a knowledge of family management
at school; and during vacations, all subjects that might
interfere with amusement are avoided.
When a girl, whose family moves in the higher
ranks of life, returns to reside at her father's house
after completing lier education, her introduction to
the gay world; and continued 'course of pleasures;
persuade her at once that she was born to be the or-
nament of fashionable circles, rather than to stoop (as


ing
she would conceive it,) to undertake the arragnement
of a family, though by that means she might in various
ways augment the satisfaction and comfort of her pa-
rents. On the other hand, persons of an inferior sphere,
and especially in the lower order of middling life, are
almost always anxious to give their children such ad-
vantages of education as themselves did not possess.
Whether their indulgence be productive of the hap-
piness so kindly aimed at, must be judged by the effects,
which are not very favourable, what has been taught
has not produced humility in herself, and increased
gratitude and respect to the authors of her being.
Were a young women brought to relish home society,
and the calm delights of agreeable occupation, before
she entered into the delusive scenes of pleasure, pre-
sented by the theatre and other dissipations, it is proba-
ble she would soon make a comparison much in favour of
the former, especially if restraint did not give to the lat-
ter additional relish.
If we carry on our observations to married life, we
shall find a life of employment to be the source of un-
numbered, pleasures. To attend to the nursing, and
at least early instruction of children, and rear a healthy
progeny in the ways of piety and usefulness :--to pre-
side over the family, and regulate the income allotted
to its maintenance; to make home the sweet refuge of
a husband fatigued by intercourse with a jarring world;
to be his enlightened companion and the chosen friend
of his heart; these, these, are women's duties! and
delightful ones they are, if happily she be married to
a man whose soul can duly estimate her worth, and
who will bring his share to the common stock of felicity.
Of such a woman, one may truly say, “ Happy the man
who can call her his wife. Blessed are the children,
who call her mother."
When we thus observe her, exercising her activity
and best abilites in appropriate cares and increasing
excellence, are we not ready to say, she is the agent
for good, of that, benevolent Being, who placed her
on earth to fulfil such sacred obligations, not to waste
the talents committed to her charge?


When it is thas evident that the high imtellectuad
attainments may find exercise in the multifarious oc-
cupations of the daughter, the wife, the mother, and
the mistress of the house, can any one urge that the
female mind is contracted by domestic employ? It is
however a great comfort that the duties of life are
within the reach of humbler abilities, and that she
whose chief aim is to fulfil them, will rarely ever fail
to acquit herself well. United with, and perhaps
crowning all the virtues of the female character, is
that well directed ductility of mind, which occasion-
ally bends its atteution to the smaller objects of life,
knowing them to be often scarcely less essential than
the greater.
Hence the direction of a table is no inconsiderable
branch of a lady's concern, as it involves judgment
in expenditure, respectability of appearance, and the
comfort of her husband and those who partake their
hospitality.
The mode of covering the table differs in taste. It is
not the multiplicity of things ; but the choice, the dress-
ing and the neat pleasing look of the whole, which
gives respectability to her who presides. Too much
or too little dinners are extremes not uncommon: the
latter is in appearance and reality the effort of poverty
or penuriousness to be genteel : and the former, if con-
stantly given, may endanger the circumstances of those
who are not affluent.
Generally speaking, dinners are far less sumptuous
than formerly, when half a dozen dishes were supplied
for what one now costs; consquently those whose for-
tunes are not great, and who wish to make a genteel
appearance without extravagance, regulate their table
accordingly.
Perhaps there are few incidents in which the re-
spectability of a man is more immediately felt, than the
style of dinner to which he accidently may bring home
a visitor. Every one is to live as he can afford, and
the meal of a tradesman ought not to emulate the en-
tertainments of the higher classes ; but if two or three
dishes are well served, with usual sauces, the table-


9
linen clean, the small sideboard neatly laid, and ali
that is necessary be at hand, the expectation of the
husband and friend will be gratified, because no irre-
gularity of domestic arrangement will disturb the social
intercourse. The same observation holds on a larger
scale. In all situations of life, the entertainment should
be no less suited to the situation than the fortune of
the entertainer, and to the number and rank of those
invited.
The manner of carving is not only a very necessary
branch of information, to enable a lady to do the hon-
ours of her table, but makes a considerable difference
in the consumption of a family ; and though in large
parties she is so much assisted as to render this knowl-
edge apparently of less consequence, yet she must at
times feel the deficiency; and should not fail to acquaint
herself with an attainment, the advantage of which is
evident every day.
Indeed, as fashions are so fleeting; it is more than
probable that before the end of this century, great at-
tention to guests may be again the mode, as it was, in
the commencement of the last. Some people haggle
meat so much, as not to be able to help half-a-dozen
persons decently from a large tongue, or a surloin of
beef; and the dish goes away with the appearance of
having been gnawed by dogs. If the daughters of the
family were to take the heall of the table under the di-
rection of their mother, they would fulfil its duties with
grace, in the same easy manner as an early practice in
other domestic affairs gradually fits them for their own
future houses. Habit alone can make good carvers ;
but some principal directions are hereafter given, with
a reference to the annexed plates.
The mistress of a family should always remember that
the welfare and good management of the house depend
on the eye of the superior ; and consequently that noth-
ing is too trifling for her notice, whereby waste may be
ävoided ; and this attention is of more importance now
that the price of every necessary of life is increased to
än enormous degree.


10
ineanness.
If a lady has never been accustomed, while single, to
think of family management, let her not upon that ac-
count fear that she cannot attain it; she may consult
others who are more experienced, and acquaint herself
with the necessary quantities of the several articles of
family expenditure, in proportion to the number it con-
sists of, the proper prices to pay, &c. &c.
A minute account of the annual income, and the
times of payment, should be taken in writing; likewise
an estimate of the supposed amount of each article of
expense ; and those who are early accustomed to cal.
culations on domestic articles, will acquire so accurate
a knowledge of what their establishment requires, as
will give them the happy medium between prodigality
and parsimony, without acquiring the character of
/ Perhaps few branches of female education are so
useful, as great readiness at figures. Accounts should
be regulérly kept, and not the smallest article omitted
to be entered ; and if balanced every week and month,
&c. the income and outgoings will be ascertained with
facility, and their proportions to each other duly ob-
served. Some people fix on stated sums to be appro-
priated to each different article, and keep the money
in separate purses ; as house, clothes, pocket, educa.
tion of children, &c. Which ever way accounts be
entered, a certain mode should be adopted, and strict-
ly adheared to. Many woman are unfortunately igno-
rant of the state of their husband's income; and others
are only made acquainted with it, when some specula-
tive project, or profitable transaction, leads them to
make a false estimate of what can be afforded ; and it
too often happens that both parties, far from consulting
each other, squander money in ways that they would
even wish to forget; whereas marriage should be a state
of mutual and perfect confidence, and similarity of pur-
suits, which would secure that happiness it was intend-
ed to bestow.
There are so many valuable women who excel as
wives, that it is a fair inference there would be a few


11
extravagant ones, where they consulted by their hus-
bands on subjects that concern the mutual interests of
both parties. Within the knowledge of the writer of
these pages, many families have been reduced to po-
verty by the want of openness in the man on the sub-
ject of his affairs; and though on these occasions the
women were blamed, it has afterwards appeared, that
they never were allowed a voice of inquiry, or suffer.
ed to reason upon what sometimes appeared to them
imprudent.
Many families have owed their prosperity full as
much to the propriety of female management, as to the
knowledge and activity of the father.
The lady of a general officer observed to her man
cook, that her last weekly bill was higher than usual.
Some excuse was offered ;-to which she replied
“Such is the sum I have allotted to house-keeping :
should it be exceeded one week, the next must repay it.
The general will have no public day this week:” The
fault was never repeated.
“March's Family Book-keeper,” is a very useful
work, and saves much trouble; the various articles of
expense being printed, with a column for every day in
the year, so that at one view the amount of expenditure
on each, and the total sum, may be known.
Ready money should be paid for all such things as
come not into weekly bills, and even for them a check
is necessary. The best places for purchasing should
be attended to. In some articles a discouut of five per
cent is allowed for ready money in our large cities,
and those who thus pay are usually the best served.
Under the idea of purchasing cheap, many go to new
shops, but it is safest to deal with people of estab-
lished credit, who do not dispose of goods by undersel-
ling.
To make tradesmen wait for their money injures them
greatly, besides that a higher price must be paid ; and in
long bills articles never bought are often charged. Per-
haps the irregularity and failure of payment, may have
much evil in uence on the price of yarious articles, and


12
may contribute to the destruction of many families from
the highest to the lowest.
Thus regularly conducted, the exact state of money
affairs will be known with case ; for it is delay of pay-
ment that occasions confusion. A common-plate book
should be always at hand, in which to enter such hints
of useful knowledge, and other observations, as are giv,
en by sensible experienced people. Want of attention
to what is advised, or supposing things too minute to be
worth hearing, are the causes why so much ignorance
prevails on necessary subjects, among those who are not
backward in frivolous ones.
It is very necessary for a woman to be informed of the
prices and goodness of all articles in cominon use, and of
the best times, as well as places, for purchasing them.
She should also be acquainted with the comparative
prices of provisions, in order that she may be able to
substitute those that are most reasonable, when they will
answer as well for others of the same kind, but which
are more costly. A false notion of economy leads many
to purchase as bargains, what is not wanted, and some-
times never is used. Were this error avoided, more
money would remain for other purposes. It is not usu-
al among lower dealers to put off a large quantity of
goods, by assurances that they are advancing in price;
and many who supply fancy articles are so successful
in pursuasion, that purchasers not unfrequently go far
beyond their original intention, even to their own fu-
ture disquiet. Some things are better for keeping, and,
being in constant consumption should be laid in accor-
dingly ; such as paper, soap and candles. Of these more
hereafter.
To give unvarying rules cannot be attempted, for
people ought to form their conduct on these circum.
stances; but it is presumed that a judicious arrange-
ment according to them, will be found equally advan.
tageous to all. The minutiæ of management must be
regulated by every one's fortune and rank. Some la-
dies, not deficient in either, charge themselves with
giving out, once in a month, to a superintending ser.


13
vant, such quantities of household articles, as, by ob-
servation and calculation they know to be sufficient,
reserving for their own key the large stock of things,
usually laid in for very large families in the country.
Should there be several more visitors than usual, they
can easily account for increase of consumption, and
vice vesra. Such a degree of judginent will be re-
spectable even in the eye of domestics, if they are not
interested in the ignorance of their employers; and if
they are, their services will not compensate for want of
honesty.
When young ladies marry, they frequently continue
their own maid in the capacity of house-heeper; who,
as they may be more attached to their interest than
strangers, become very valuable servants. To such,
the economical observations in this work will be as
useful as the cookery ; and it is recommendable in
them to be strictly observiant of both, which, in the
course of a year or two, will make them familiar in the
practice.
It is much to be feared, that for the waste of many of
the good things that God hath given for our use, not
abuse, the mistress and servants of great houses will
hereafter be called to a strict acogunt.
Some part of every person's fortune should be devoted
to charity ; by which, "a piour woman will build up
her house before God, while she that is foolish, (i. ē.
lends nothing to the Lord,) pulls it down with her
hands." No one can complain of the wants of gifts to
the poor in this land :- but there is a mode of relief
which would acid greatly to their comfort, and which
being prepared from superfluity, and such materials as
are ofton thrown away, the expense would not be felt.
In the latter part of this work some hints for preparing
the above are given.
By good hours, especially early breakfast, a family
is more regular, and much time is saved. If orders be
given soon in the morning, there will be more time to
execute them; and servants, by doing their work with
ease, will be more equal to it, and fewer will be ne-
cessary.
B


14
It is worthy of notice that the general expense will
be reduced, and much time saved, if every thing be kept
in its proper place, applied to its proper use, and mend.
ed, when the nature of the accident will allow, as soon
as broken.
If the economy of time was duly considered, the use-
ful affairs transacted before amusements were allowed,
and a regular plan of employment was daily laid down,
a great deal might be done without hurry or fatigue;
and it would be a most pleasant retrospect at the end of
the year, were it possible to enumerate all the valuable
acquirement made, and the good actions performed, by
an active woman.
If the subject of servants be thought ill-timed in a
book upon family arrangement, it must be by those
who do not recollect that the regularity and good ma-
nagement of the heads will be insufficient, if not second-
ed by those who are to execute orders. It behoves
every person to be extremely careful whom he takes
into his service ; to be very minute in investigating the
character he receives, and equally cautious and scro-
pulously just in giving one to others. Were this at-
tended to, many bad people would be incapaciated for
doing mischief, by abusing the trust imposed in them.
It may be fairly asserted, that the robbery, or waste,
which is but a milder epithet for the unfaithfulness of a
servant, will be laid to the charge of that master or misa
tress , who knowing, or having well founded suspicions,
of such taults, is prevailed upon by false pity, or entrea-
ty, to slide him into another place. There are how.
who are unfortunately capricious, and
often refuse to give a character because they are dis-
pleased that a servant leaves their service : but this is
unpardonable, and an absolute robbery, servants have
ing no inheritance, and depending on their fair name
for employment. To refuse countenance to the evil,
and to encourage the good servant, are actions due to
society at large ; and such as are honest, frugal, and
attentive to their duties, should be liberally rewarded,
which would encourage merit, and inspire scrrants with
zeal to acquit themselves.
ever some


15
It may be proper to observe that a retribute just-
ice usually marks persons in that station sooner or la-
ter, even in this world. The extravagant and idle in
servitude, are ill prepared for the industry and sobri-
ety on which their own future welfare so essentially
depends. Their faults, and the attendant puuishment,
comes home when they have children of their own;
and sometimes much sooner. They will see their own
folly and wickedness perpetuated in their offspring,
whom they must not expect to be better than the ex-
ample and instruction given by themselves.
It was the observation of a sensible and experienced
woman, that she could always read the fate of her ser-
vants who married, those who had been faithful and
industrious in her service, continued their good habits
in their own families, and became respectable members
of the community :-- those who were the contrary,
never were successful, and not unfrequently were re-
duced to the parish.
A proper quantity of household articles should be
always ready, and more bought in before the others' be
consumed, to prevent inconvenience, especially in the
country.
A bill of parcels and receipt should be required, even
if the money be paid at the time of purchase ; and to
avoid mistakes, let the goods be compared with these
when brought home.
Though it is very disagreeable to suspect any one's
honesty, and perhaps mistakes have been unintentional;
yet it is prudent to weigh meat, sugars, &c. when
brought in, and compare with the charge. The butcher
should be ordered to send the weight with the meat,
and the cook to file these checks, to be examined when
the weekly bill shall be delivered.
Much trouble and irregularity are saved when there
is company, if servants are required to prepare the
table and sideboard in similar order daily.
All things likely to be wanted should be in readi-
ness ; sugars of different qualities kept broken, cur-
rants washed, picked, and perfectly dry, spices pound-


16
éd, and kept in very small bottles closely corked ; not
more than will be used in four or five weeks should be
pounded at a time. Much less is necessary than when
boiled whole in gravies, &c.
Where noonings or suppers are served (and in ev-
ery house some preperation is necessary for acciden-
tal visitors,) care should be taken to have such things
in readiness as are proper for either; a list of several
will be subjoined, a change of which may be agree-
able, and if duly managed, will be attended with little
expense and much convenience.
A ticket should be exchanged by the cook for eve-
ry loaf of bread, which when returned will show the
number to be paid for ; as tallies may be altered, un-
less one to be kept by each party.
Those who are served with brewer's beer, or any
other articles not paid for weekly or on delivery,
shonli keep a book for entering the dates ; which will
not only serve to prevent overcharges, but will show
the whole year's consumption at one view,
An inventory of furniture, linen, and china, should
be kept, and the things examined by it twice a year,
or oftener if there be a change of servants ; into each
of whose care the articles used by him or her, should
be intrusted, with a list, as is done with plate. Tick-
ets of parchment with the family name, numbered,
and specifying what bed it belongs to, should be sew-
ed on each feather-bed, bolster, pillow,' and blanket.
Knives, forks, and house-cloths, are often deficient :
these accidents might be obviated, if an article at the
head of every list required the former should be pro-
duced whole or broken, and the marked part of the
linen, though all the others should be worn out. The
inducement to take oare of glass is in some measure
removed, by the increased price given for old fint
glass.—Those who wish for trifle-dishes, butter-stands,
&c. at a lower charge than cut glass, may buy them
made in moulds, of which there is a great variety that
look extremely well, if not placed near the more beau-
tiful articles.
The price of starch depends upon that of flour; the
i


17
best will keep good in a dry warm room for some
years; therefore when bread is cheap it may be bought
to advantage, and covered close.
Sugars being an article of considerable expense in
all families, the purchase demands particular attention.
The cheapest does not go so far as that more refined ;
and there is a difference even in the degree of sweet-
ness. The white should be chosen that is close, hea-
vy, and shining. The best sort of brown has a bright
gravely look, and it is often to he bought pure as im-
ported.' East India sugars are finer for the price, but
not so strong, consequently unfit for wines and sweet-
meats, but do well for common purposes, if good of
their kind. To prepare white sugar, pounded, roll-
ing it with a bottle, and sifting, wastes less than a
portar.
Candles made in cool weather are best ; and when
their price, and that of soap, which rise and fall toge-
ther, is likely to be higher, it will be prudent to lay
in the stock of both. This information the chandler
can always give; they are better for keeping eight or
ten months, and will not injure for two years, if
pro-
perly placed in the cool ; and there are few articles
ihat better deserve care in buying, and allowing a due
quantity of, according to the size of the family.
Paper, by keeping, improves in quality : and if bought
ty half or whole reams from large dealers, will be
much cheaper than purchased by the quire. The
surprising increase of the price of this article may be
accounted for by the additional duties, and a larger
consumption, besides the monopoly of rags; of the lat-
ter it is said, there is some scarcity, which might be
obviated if an order were given to a servant in every
family to keep a bag to receive all the waste bits from
cuttings out, &c.
Many well-meaning servants are ignorant of the
best means of managing, and thereby waste as much
as would maintain a small family, beside causing the
mistress of the house much chagrin by their irregula-
rity; and many families, from the want of method, have
B2


18
1
the appearence of chance rather than of regular gye.
tem. To avoid this, the following hints may be useful
as well as economical:
Every article should be kept in the place best suit-
ed to it, as much waste may be thereby avoided, viz.
Vegetables will keep best on a stone floor if the air
be excluded.—Meat in a cold dry place.-Sugar and
sweetmeats require a dry place; so does salt.-Can-
dles cold, but not damp.-Dried meats, hams, &c. the
same.-All sorts of seeds for puddings, saloop, rice,
&c. should be close covered to preserve from insects;
but that will not prevent it, if long kept.
Bread is now so heavy an article of expense, that
all waste should be guarded against ; and having it cut
in the room will tend much to prevent it. Since the
scarcity in 1795 and 1800, that custom has been much
adopted. it should not be cut until a day old. Earth-
en pans and covers keep it best.
Straw to lay apples on should be quite dry to prevent
a musty taste.
Large pears should be tied up by the stalk.
Basil, savoury, or knotted marjoram, or thyme, to
be used when herbs are ordered; but with discretion,
as they are very pungent.
The best means to preserve blankets from moths is
to fold and lay them under the feather-beds that are in
use ; and they should be shaken occasionally. When
soiled, they should be washed, not scoured.
Soda, by softening the water, saves a great deal of
soap. It should be melted in a large jug of water, some
of which pour into the tubs and boiler; and when the
lather becomes weak, add more. The new improve-
ment in soft soap is, if properly used, a saving of near
half in quantity; and though something dearer than
the hard, reduces the price of washing considerably.
Many good laundresses advise soaping linen in warm
water the night previous to washing, as facilitating the
operation with less friction.
Soap should be cut with a wire or twine, in pieces
that will make a long square when first brought in


19
and kept out of the air two or three weeks ; for if it
dry quick, it will crack, and when wet, break. Put
it on a shelf, leaving a space between, and let it grow
hard gradually. Thus, it will save a full third in the
consumption.
Some of the lemons and oranges used for juice should
be pared first to preserve the peel dry ; some should
be halved, and when squeezed, the pulp cut out, and
the outsides dried for grating. If for boiling in any
liquid, the first way is best. When these fruits are
cheap, a proper quantity should be bought and pre-
pared as above directed, especially by those who live
in the country, where they cannot always be had ; and
they are perpetually wanted in cookery.
When whites of eggs are used for jelly, or other
purposes, contrive to have pudding, custard, &c. to
employ the yolks also. Should you not want them for
several hours, beat them up with a little water, and
put them in a cool place, or they will be hardened
and useless. It was a mistake of old, to think that the
whites made cakes and puppings heavy ; on the con-
trary, if beaten long and seperately, they contribute
greatly to give lightness, are an advantage to paste,
and make a pretty dish beaten with fruit, to set in
If copper utensils be used in the kitchen the cook
should be charged to be very careful not to let the tin
be rubbed off, and to have them fresh done when the
least defect appears, and never to put by any soup;
gravy, &c. in them, or any metal utensil ; stone and
earthen vessels should be provided for those purposes,
as likewise plenty of common dishes, that the table-set
may not be used to put hy cold meat.
Tin vessels, if kept damp, soon 'rust, which causes
holes. Fenders, and tin linings of flower-pots, &c.
should be painted every year or two.
Vegetables soon sour, and corrode metals and glazed
red ware, by which a strong poison is produced. Some
years ago, the death of several gentlemen was occa-
sioned at Salt-hill, by the cook sending a ragout to the
cream, &c.


20
table, which she had kept from the preceding day in
a copper vessel badly tinned.
Vinegar, by its acidity, does the same, the glazing
being of lead or arsenic.
To cool liquors in hot weather, dip a cloth in cold
water, and wrap it round the bottle too or three times,
then place it in the sun ; renew the process once or
twice.
The best way of scalding fruits, or boiling vinegar,
is in a stone jar on a hot iron hearth : or by putting the
Vessel into a saucepan of water, called a water-bath.
If chocolate, coffee, jelly, gruel, bark, &c. be suf-
fered to boil over, the strength is lost.
The cook should be encouraged to be careful of
coals and cinders, for the latter there is a new contri-:
vance to sift, without dispersing the dust of the ashes,
by means of a covered tin bucket.
Small coal wetted makes the strongest fire for the
back, but must remain untouched until it cake. Cin-
ders lightly wet, give a great degree of heat, and are
better than coal for furnaces, ironing-stoves, and ovens.
The cook should be charged to take care of jelly-
bags, tapes for the collared things, &c. which if not
perfectly scalded, and kept dry, give an unpleasant
flavour when next used.
· Cold water thrown on cast-iron, when hot, will cause
it to crack.
In the following and indeed all other receipts, though
the quantities may be' as accurately directed as pos.
sible, yet much must be left to the discretion of the
person who uses them. The different tastes of people
require more or less of the flavour of spices, salt, gar-
lic, butter, &c. which can never be ordered by general
rules ; and if the cook has not a good taste, and atten-
tion to that of her employers, not all the ingredients
which nature and art can furnish, will give exquisite
flavour to her dishes. The proper articles should be
at hand, and she must proportion them until the true
zest be obtained, and a variety of flavour be given to
the different dishes served at the same time,


21
Those who require maigre dishes will find abundance
in this little work; and where they are not strictly so;
by suet or bacon being directed into stuffings, the cook
must use butter instead; and where meat gravies, (or
stock as they are called) ordered, those made of fish
must be adopted.
DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING.
The carving-knife for å lady should be light, and of a
middling size and fine edge. Strength is less required
than address, in the manner of using it: and to facili-
tate this the cook should give orders to the butch-
er to divide the joints of the bones of all carcass-joints
of mutton, lamb, and veal, (such as neck, breast, and
loin ; which may then be easily cut into thin slices at-
tached to the adjoining bones. If the whole of the meat
belonging to each bone should be too thick, a small slice
may be taken off between every two' bones.
The more fleshy joints, (as fillet of veal, leg or sad-
dle of mutton, and beef,) are to be helped in thin
slices, neatly cut and smooth ; observing to let the
knife pass down to the bone in the mutton and beef
joints.
The dish should not be too far off the carver; as it
gives an awkward appearance, and makes the task more
difficult. Attention is to be paid to help every one to a
part of such articles as are considered the best.
In helping fish, take care not to break the flakes ;
which in cod and very fresh salmon are large and con-
tribute much to the beauty of its appearance. A fish
knife, not being sharp, divides it best on this account.
Help a part of the roe, milt, or liver, to each person.
The heads of carp, part of those of cod and salmon,
sounds of cod, and fins of turbot, are likewise esteemed
niceties, and are to be attended to accordingly.


22
In cutting up any wild-fowl, duck, goose, or turkey,
for a large party, if you cut the slices down from pin-
ion to pinion, without making wings, there will be more
prime pieces.
A Cod's Head.–Fish in general requires very little
carving, the fleshy parts being those principally es-
teemed. A cod's head and shoulders, when in season,
and properly boiled, is a very genteel and handsome
dish. When cut it should be done with a fish-trowel,
and the parts about the back-bone on the shoulders
are the most firm and the best. Take off a piece quite
down to the bone, in the direction, a, n, c, d, putting
in the spoon at a, c and with each slice of fish give a
piece of the sound, which lies underneath the back.
bone and lines it, the meat of which is thin, and a lit-
tle darker colored than the body of the fish itself: this
may be got by passing a knife or spoon underneath, in
the direction d, f. About the head are many delicate
parts, and a great deal of the jelly kind. The jelly part
lies about the jaw-bones, and the firm parts within the
head. Some are fond of the palate, and others the
tongue, which likewise may be got by putting a spoon
into the mouth.
Edge-bone of Beef.-Cut off a slice an inch thick all
the length from a to b, in the figures opposite, and then
help. The soft fat which resembles marrow, lies at
the back of the bone, below c; the firm fat must be cut
in horizontal slices at the edge of the meat d. It is
proper to ask which is preferred, as tastes differ The
skewer that keeps the meat properly together when
boiling, is here shewn at a. This should be drawn out
before it is served up; or, if it is necessary to leave the
skewer in, put a silver one.
Sirloin of Beef.—May be begun either at the end, or
by cutting into the middle. It is usual to inquire whe-
ther the outside or the inside is preferred. For the
outside the slice should be cut down to the bones : and
the same with every following helping. Slice the in-
side likewise, and give with each piece some of the soft
Sat.


P1.3.
P22
Cod's Head


Round of Beef
с c

Half a Calf's Head


23
The inside done as follows eats excellently : Have,
ready some shallot-vinegar boiling hot : mince the peat:
large, and a good deal of the fat; sprinkle it with salt,
and pour the shallot-vinegar and the gravy on it. Help ·
with a spoon, as quick as possible, on hot plates.
Round or Buttock of Beef is cut in the same way as
a fillet of veal, in the next article. It should be kept
even all over. When helping the fat, observe not to
hack it, but-cut it smooth. A deep slice should be cut
off the beef before you begin to help, as directed above
for the edge-bone.
Fillet of Veal.-In an ox this part is round.of beef.
Ask whether the brown outside be liked, otherwise
help the next slice. The bone is taken out, and the
meat tied close, before dressing; which makes the fillet
very solid. It should be cut thin, and very smooth. A
stuffing is put into the flap, which completeiy covers it;':
you must cut deep into this, and help a thin slice, as.
likewise of fat. From carelessness in not covering the
latter with paper, it is sometimes dried up, to the great
disappointment of the carver.
Brenst of Veal.-One part (which is called the bris.
ket) is thickest, and has gristles ; put your knife about
four inches from the edge of this, and cut through it,
which will separate the ribs from the brisket. Ask•
which is chosen, and help accordingly.
Calf's Head has a great deal of meat upon it, if pro-
perly managed. Cut slices from a to b, in the figure
opposite page 22, letting the knife go close to the
bone. In the fleshy part, at the neck end c, there lies
the throat sweetbread, which you should help a slice of
from c to d with the other part. Many like the eye ;
which you must cut out with the point of your knife,
and divide in two.
If the jaw-bone be taken off, there
will be found some fine lean. Under the head is the
palate, which is reckoned a nicety; the lady of the
house should be acquainted with all things that are
thought so, that she may distribute them among her
guests.
Shoulder nf Mullon...This is a very good joint, and


21
by many prefered to the leg; it being very full of
gravy, if properly roasted, and produces many nice
bits. The figure represents it as laid in the dish with
its back uppermost. When it is first cut, it should be in
the hollow part of it, in the direction of a, b, and the
knife should be passed deep to the bone. The prime
part of the fat lies on the outer edge, and is to be cut
out in thin slices in the direction e. If many are at ta-
ble, and the hollow part cut in the line a, b, is eaten,
some very good and delicate slices may be cut out on
each side the ridge of the blade-bone, in the direction c,
d. The line between these two dotted lines, is that in
the direction of which the edge or ridge of the blade-
bone lies, and cannot be cut across.
Leg of Mutton. A leg of wether mutton, (which
is the best flavoured,) may be known by a round lump of
fat at the edge of the broadest part, as at a.
The best
part is in the midway, at b, between the knuckle and
farther end. Begin to help there, by cutting thin deep
slices to c. If the outside is not fat enough, help some
from the side of the broad end in slices from e to j.
This part is most juicy: but many prefer the knuckle,
which in fine mutton will be very tender though dry.
There are very fine slices on the back of the leg; turn
it up, and cut the broad end.; not in the direction you
did the other side, but long ways. To cut out the cramp-
bone, take hold of the shank with your left hand, and cut
down the thigh-bone at d; then pass the knife under the
cramp-bone in the direction, d, g.
A fore Quarter of Lamb.—Separate the shoulder from
the scoven, (which is the breast and ribs,) by passing
the knife under in the direction of a, b, c, d, in the fi-
gure opposite the last page; keeping it towards you hor-
izontally, to prevent cutting the meat too much off the
bones. If grass lamb, the shoulder being large, put it in-
to another dish. Squeeze the juice of half a Seville or-
ange (or lemon) on the other part, and sprinkle a little
salt and pepper. Then separate the gristly part from
the ribs in the line e, c; and help either from that, or
from the ribs, as may be chosen.


P1.4.
P.24
Shoulder of Mutton

a
с
b a
Leg of Mutton
a
z
g
Quarter of Lamb





1


P1.5
P.25
Haunch of Venison
a

1
a
Ham
Pig
Goose


25
Haunch of Venison.--Cut down to the bone in the line
a, b, c, in the figure opposite the next page, to let out
the gravy: then turn the broad end of the haunch to-
ward you, put in the knife at b, and cut as deep as you
can to the end of the haunchd; then help in thin slices,
observing to give some fat to each person. There is
more fat, (which is a favorite part) on the left side of o
and d than on the other: and those who help must take
care to proportion it, as likewise the gravy, according to
the number of the company.
Haunch of Multon is the leg and part of the loin, cut
so as to resemble haunch of venison, and is to be helped
at table in the same manner.
Saddle of Mutton.-Cut long thin slices from the tail
to the end, beginning close to the back-bone. If a large
joint, the slice may be divided. Cut some fat from the
sides.
Ham may be cut three ways; the common method
is to begin in the middle, by long slices from a b, from
the centre through the thick fat. This brings to the
prime at first; which is likewise accomplished by cut-
ting a small round hole on the top of the ham as at c,
and with a sharp knife enlarging that by cutting suc-
cessive thin circles: this
preserves the
gravy,
and
keeps the meat moist.
The last and most saving way, is to begin at the
hock end, (which many are most fond of,) and proceed
onwards.
Ham that is used for pies, &c. should be cut from
the under side, first taking off a thick slice.
Sucking Pig.-The cook usually divides the body
before it is sent to table, and garnishes the dish with
the jaws and ears.
The first thing is, to separate a shoulder from the
carcass on one side, and then the leg, according to the
direction given by the doted line a, b, c, The ribs
are then to be divided into about two helpings; and an
ear or jaw presented with them, and plenty of sauce.
The joints may either be divided into two each, or
pieces may be cut from them. The ribs are reckoned
C
2


26
the finest part; but some people prefer the neck-end
between the shoulders.
Goose-Cut off the apron in the circular line a, b, c,
in the figure opposite the last page; and pour into the
body a glass of port wine, and a large tea-spoonful of
mustard, first mixed at the sideboard. Turn the neck
end of the goose towards you, and cut the whole brest
in long slices from one wing to another; but only re-
move them as you help each person, unless the compa
ny is so large as to require the legs likewise. This
way gives more prime bits than by making wings.
Take off the leg, by putting the fork into the small end
of the bone, pressing it to the body, and having pass-
ed the knife at d, turn the leg back, and if a young
bird, it will easily separate. To take off the wing, put
your fork in the small end of the pinion, and press it
close to the body, then put in the knife at d, and di-
vide the joint, taking it down in the direction, d, e.
Nothing but practice will enable people to hit the joint
exactly at the first trial. When the, leg and wing of
one side are done, go on to the other but it is not of -
ten necessary to cut up the whole goose, unless the
company be very large. There are two side-bones by
the wing, which may be cut off ; as likewise the back
and lower side bones : but the best pieces are the
breast and the thighs after being divided from the drum-
sticks.
Hare. The best way of cutting it up is, to put the
point of the knife under the shoulder at a, in the figure
opposite the next page, and so cut all the way down
to the rump, on one side of the back-bone, in the line
id, b. Do the same on the other side, so that the whole
hare will be dirided into three parts. Cut the back
into four, which with the legs is the part most esteem. -
ed. The shoulder must be cut off in a circular line,
c, d, a; lay the pieces neatly on the dish as you cut
theni; and then help the company, giving some pud.
ding and gravy to every person. This way can only
be practised when the hare is young; if old, do not divide
it down, which will require a strong arm: and put the


.
همه به ای مربا و تم "
ilegant


P1.6.
P.27

Hare
A Roast Fowl
Boild Fowl
20
to
thu
Wing
Leg
and
in
the
10
thro
Nec
Bone
into
the
sides


27
knife between the leg and back, and give it a little.
turn inwards at the joint ; which you must endeavour
to hit, and not to break by force. When both legs are
taken off, there is a fine collop on each side the back;
then divide the back into as many pieces as you please,
and take off the shoulders, which are by many prefer-
red, and are called the sportsman's pieces. When eve-
ry one is helped, cut off the head ; put your knife he.
tween the upper and lower jaw, and divide them, which
will enable you to lay the upper flat on your plate ;
then put the point of the knife into the centre and cut
the head into two. The ears and brains may be helped
then to those who like them.
Carve Rabbits as directed the latter way for hare:
cutting the back in two pieces, wbich with the legs are
the prime.
A fov.l. A boiled fowl's legs are bent inwards, and
tucked into the belly; but before it is served, the skew.
ers are to be reúroved. Lay the fowl on your plate; and
place the joints, as cut off on the dish, Take the wing
off in the direction of a and b, in the annexed engrav-
ing, only dividing the joint with your knife ; and then
with your fork lift up the pinion, and draw the wing
towards the legs, and the muscles will separate in a
more complete form than it cut. Slip the knife be-
tween the leg and body, and cut to the bone; then
with the fork turn the leg back, and the joint will give
way if the bird is not old. When the four quarters are
thus removed, take off the merrythought from .a, and
the neck-bones; these last by putting in the knife at C,
and pressing it under the long broad part of the bone
in the line c, b: then lift it up, and break it ofi' from
the part that sticks to the breast. The next thivg is,
to divide the breast from the carcass, by cutting
through the tender ribs close to the breast, quite down
to the tail. Then lay the back upwards, put your knife
into the bone half-way from the neck to the rump and
on raising the lower end it will separate readily. Turn
the rump from you, and very neatly take off the two
sides-men, and the whole will be done. As each part


28
is taken off, it should be turned neatly on the dish: and
care should be taken that what is left goes properly from
table. The breast and wings are looked upon as the
best parts; but the legs are most juicy, in young fowls.
After all, more advantage will be gajued by observing
those who carve well, and a little practice, than by any
written directions whatever.
A Pheasant.---The bird in the annexed engraving is
as trussed for the spit; with its head under one of its
wings. When the skewers are taken out, and the bird
served, the following is the way to carve it.
Fix your fork in the centre of the breast ; slice it
down in the line a, b; take off the leg on one side in
the dotted line b, d : then cut off the wing on the same
side in the line c, d. Separate the leg and wing on the
other side, and then cut off the slices of breast you divi..
ded before. Be careful how you take off the wings ;
for if you should cut too near the neck, as at g, you will
hit on the neck bone, from which the wing must be se-
parated. Cut off the merrythought in the line f, g, by.
passing the knife under it towards the veck. Cut
the other parts as in a fowl. The breast, wings and
merrythought, are the most esteemed; but the leg has a
higher flavour.
Partridge.--The partridge is here represented as
just taken from the spit ; but before it is served up the
skewers must be withdrawn. It is cutup in the same
manner as a fowl. The wings must be taken off in the line
a, b, and the merrythought in the line c, d. The prime
parts of a partridge are the wings, breast, and merry-
thought; but the bird being small, the two latter are not
often divided. The wiog is considered as the best, and
the tip of it reckoned the most delicate morsel of the
whole.
Pigeons.-Cut them in half, either from top to bottom,
The lower part is generally thought the
best; but the fairest way is to cut from the neck to a,
figure 7, rather thau from c to b, by a, which is the most
fashionable. The figure represents the back of the pi-
geon; and the direction of the knife is in the line b, by
0, C, if done the last way.
or across,


1
|


P1.7.
P.28

Pheasant
d
6 bi
d
cca Coc
Partridge
d
d
с
Pigeons
8
c
7


AMERICAN
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
FISH.
To choose Fish.
Rock Fish.-A remarkably fine firm and well fli-
-voured fish, should be chosen by the redness of the
gills and a full bright eye; if the eye is sunken and the
gills pale, they have been too long out of the water :
their fineness depends on their being cooked immediate-
ly after they are killed; the same fish in New-York, and
to the eastward of it, is known by the name of Streaker.
Bass.
Sheap's Head. This fish is generally esteemed one of
the finest brought to our markets. It should be firm and
thick, and the eyes bright. They are in season during
the whole summer.
Sea Bass and Black Fish are fine solid fish, and gen-
erally to be had alive in the Philadelphia market and
to the eastward, it is seldom seen in the southern mar-
ket.
Salmon. If new, the flesh is of a fine red, (the gills
particularly,) the scales bright, and the whole fish stiff.
When just killed, there is a whitness between the flakes,
which gives great firmness; by keeping this melts down,
and the fish is more rich.
Cod.—The gills should be very red, the fish should
be
very thick at the neck, the flesh white and firm, and
the eyes fresh. When flabby they are not good. They
are in season from the beginning of December till the
end of April.
Shad. - If good, they are very white and thick, their
C2


30
FISH.
gills of a fine red and the eyes bright; the whole fisia
must be stiff and firm. Season April and May.
Herrings.--If good, their gills are of a fine red and
the eyes bright ; as is likewise the whole fish, which
must be stiff and firm.
Soles. If good, they are thick, and the belly is of a
cream-color; if this is of a bluish cast and flabby, they
are not fresh. They are in the market almost the
whole year, but are in the highest perfection about mid-
summer.
Whitings. The firmness of the body and fins is to
be looked to, as in herrings; their high season is during
the first three months of the year, but they may be had
a great part of it.
Mackerel,--Choose as whitings. Their season is May,
June, and July. They are so tender a fish that they
carry and keep worse than any other.
Pike. For freshness observe the above marks.' The
best are taken in rivers; they are very dry fish, and are
auch indepted to stuffing and sauce.
Carp live sometime out of water, and may therefore
get wasted; it is best to kill them as soon as caught, to
prevent this. The same signs of freshness attend them
as other fish.
Troul. They are a fine-flavoured fresh-water fish,
and should be killed and dressed as soon as caught.-
When they are to be bought, examine whether the gills
are red and hard to open, the eyes bright, and the body
stiff. The season is July, August and September.
Perch. Take the general rules given to distinguish
the freshness of other fish.
Mullets.- The sea are preferred to the river mullets,
and the red to the grey. They should be very firm.-
Their season is August.
Gudgeons. They are chosen by the same rules as
other fish. They are taken in running streams ; come
in about midsummer, and are to be had for five or six
months.
Eels. There is a greater difference in the goodness
of eels than of any other fish. The true silves-eel (8C


FISK.
31
called from the bright colour of the belly,) is caught in
all our rivers ; those taken in great floods are generally
good, but in ponds they have usually a strong rank
favour. Except the middie of summer, they are al-
ways in season.
Flounders. They should be thick, firm, and have
their eyes bright. They very soon become flabby and
bad. They are in season from January to March, and
from July to September.
Lobsters.--If they have not been long taken, the claws
will have a strong motion when you put your finger on
the eyes and press them. The heaviest are the best, and
it is preferable to boil them at home. When you buy
them ready-boiled, try whether their tails are stiff, and
pull them up with a spring ; otherwise that part will be
tlabby. The cock-lobster is known by the narrow back
part of his tail; and the two uppermost fins within it
are stiff and hard ; but those of the hen are soft, and the
tail broader. The male, though generally smaller, has
the highest flavour, the flesh is firmer, and the colour
when boiled is a deeper red.
Crabs. The heaviest are best, and those of a middling
size are sweetest. If light they are watery, when in
perfection the joints of the legs are stiff, and the body
has a very agreeable smell. The eyes look dead and
loose when stale.
Prawns and Shrimps.—When fresh they have a sweet
flavour, are firm and stiff, and the colour is bright.-
Shrimps are of the prawn kind, and may be judged by
the same rules.
Oysters. They are taken in every section of the Un-
ion, on the seaboard ; those most esteemed are taken
in the Chesapeake Bay, about York and Rappahanock
rivers, &c. when alive and strong, the shell is close.---
They should be eaten as soon as opened, otherwise they
lose their flavour. In choosing, care should he taken to
get them with a thin sharp shell, as this is a mark of
their being young; and when open, the oyster should
have a plump solid appearance ; the largest are by no
means the best.


FISH.
Besides the above enumerated fish, our waters afford
an immense quantity, many of which are extremely de-
licate, particularly as pan fish ; but as the directions
already given may be applied to them, it is deemed un-
necessary to go more into detail.
Terrapins. There are several species, those most pre-
ferred are taken in the Chesapeake Bay, at the mouths
of the Potomac, Chester, and other rivers. Those that
are full and heavy for the size are the best; those with
a smooth shell are old.
Turtle. There are several species, but the green is
in the highest estimation for the table, and is generally
brought to us from the West India islands. They weigh
from eighty to two hundred pounds; when an opportu-
nity of choice offers, those which are heaviest in pro-
portion to their bulk, are to be preferred; and the ge-
nerál liveliness of the animal is also to be attended to.
Observations on Dressing Fish.
When quite clean, if to be boiled, some salt and a lit-
tle vinegar should be put into the water, to give it firm-
ness; but cod, whiting, and haddock, are far better if a
little salted, and kept a day; and if not very hot weather
they would be good two days.
Those who know how to purchase fish, may, by taking
more at a time than they want for one day, often get it
cheap; and such kinds as will pot or pickle, or keep by
bein« sprinkled with salt and hung up, or by being fried
serve for stewing the next day, may then be bought
wiin advantage.
Fresh-water fish has often a muddy smell and taste,
to take off which, soak it in strong salt and water after
it is nicely cleaned; or if a size to bear it, scald it in the
same; then dry and dress it.
The fish must be put into the water while cold, and
set to do very gently, or the outside will break before
the inner part is done.
Crimp fish should be put into boiling water; and when


FISH.
33
åt boils up, pour a little cold water in, to check extreme
heat and simmerit a few minutes.
The fish-plate on whieh it is done may be drawn up,
to see if it be ready ; it will leave the bone when it is.
-It should then be immediately taken out of the wa-
ter; or it will be woolly. The fish-plate should be set
crossways over the kettle, to keep hot for serving; and
a clean cloth over the fish, to prevent its losing its
colour.
Small fish nicely fried, covered with egg and crumbs,
make a dish far more elegant than if served plain.
Great attention should be paid to garnishing fish: use
plenty of horse-radish, parsley, and lemon.
When well done, and with very good sauce, fish is
more attended to than almost any other dish. The liver
and roe should be placed on the dish, so that the lady may
see then, and help a part to every one.
If fish' is to be fried or broiled, it must be wrapped
in a nice soft cloth after it is well cleaned and washed.
,When perfectly dry, wet with an egg, if for frying,
and sprinkle the finest crumbs of bread over it ; if done
a second time with the egg and bread, the fish will
look much better : then having a thick-bottomed fry-
ing-pan on the fire, with a large quantity of lard or
dripping boiling-hot, plunge the fish into it, and let it
fry middlingly quick, till the colour is a fine brown
yellow, and it is judged ready. If it is done enough
before it has obtained a proper degree of colour, the
cook should draw the pan to the side of the fire ; care-
fully take it up, and either place it on a large seive
turned upwards, and to be kept for that purpose only,
or on the under side of a dish to drain; and if wanted
very nice, a sheet of cap paper must be put to receive
the fish, which should look a beautiful colour, and all
the crum! appear distinct ș the fish being free from
grease. The same dripping, with a little fresh, will
serve a second time. Butter gives a bad colour ; oil
fries of the finest colout for those who will allow the
expense.
Garnish with a fringe of curled raw parsley, or pars-


34
FISH.
ley fried, which must be thus done. When washed and
picked, throw it again into clean water ; when the lard
or dripping boils, throw the parsley into it immediate-
Iy from the water, and instantly it will be green and
crisp, and must be taken up with a slice; this may be
done after the fish is fried.
If fish is to be broiled, it must be seasoned, flavoured,
and put on a gridiron that is very clean; which, when
hot, should be rubbed with a bit of suet, to prevent the
fish from sticking. It must be boiled on a very clear
fire, that it may not taste smoky; and not too near, that
it may not be scorched.
SALMON.
To boil Salmon.
Clean it carefully, boil it gently, and take it out of the
water as soon as done. Let the water be warm if the
fish be split. Ifunderdone it is very unwholesome.
Shrimp or anchovy sauce.
To broil Salmon.
Cut slices an inch thick, and season with pepper and
salt ; lay each slice in half a sheet of white paper, well
buttered, twist the ends of the paper, and broil the slices
over a slow fire six or eight minutes. Serve in the pa-
per with anchovy-sauce.
To pot Salmon.
Take a large piece, scale and wipe, but do not wash
it; salt very well, let it be till the salt is melted and
drained from it, then season with beaten mace, cloves,
and whole pepper : lay in a few bay-leaves, put it close
into a pan, cover it over with butter, and bake it ;
when well done, drain it from the gravy, put it into
the pots to keep, and when cold cover it with clarified
butter.
In this manner you may do any firm fish.
To dry Salmon.
Cut the fish down, take out the inside and roe. Rub
the whole with common salt after scaling it; let it hang


FISH
35
1
94 hours to drain. Pound three or four ounces of salt-
petre, according to the size of the fish, two ounces o: bay
salt, and two ounces of course sugar: rub these when
mixed well, into the salmon, and lay it on a large dish
or tray two days, then rub it well with common salt,
andin 24 hours more it will be fit to dry : wipe it well
after draining. Hang it either in a wood chimney.
or in a dry place ; keepiug it open with two small
sticks.
Dried salmon is eaten broiled in paper, and only just
warmed through; egg-sauce and mashed potatoes with
it; or it may be boiled, especially the bit next the head.
An excellent dish of dried Salmon.
Pull some into flakes; have ready some eggs boiled
hard and chopped large; put both into half a pint of
thin cream, and two or three ounces of butter rubbed
with a tea-spoonful of four; skim it and stir till boiling
bot; make a wall of mashed potatoes round the inner
edge of a dish, and pour the above into it.
To pickle Salmon,
Boil as before directed, take the fish out, and boil the
liquor with bay-leaves, pepper-corps, and salt; add vin.
egar, when cold, and pour it over the fish.
Another way
After scaling and cleaning, split the salmon, and di-
vide it into such pieces as you choose, lay it on the ket-
tle to fill the bottom, and as much water as will coverit;
to three quarts put a pint of vinegar, a handful of salt,
twelve bay-leaves, six blades of mace, and a quarter
of an ounce of black pepper.
When the salmon is
"boiled enough, drain it and put it on a clean cloth, then
put more salmon into the kettle, and pour the liquor
upon it, and so on till all is done. After this, if the
pickle be not smartly flavoured with the vinegar and
balt, and more, and boil it quick three quarters of an
hour. When all is cold, pack the fish in something
deep, and let there be enough of pickle to plentifully
coyer, Preserve it from the air. The liquor must be


36
FISH.
drained from the fish, and occasionally boiled and
skimmed.
Salmon collared,
Split such a part of the fish as may be sufficient to
make a handsoine roll, wash and wipe it, and having
mixed salt, white pepper, pounded mace, and Jamaica
pepper, in quantity to season it very high, rub it in-
side and out, well. Then roll it tight and bandage
it, put as much water and one third vinegar as will
cover it, with bay-leaves, salt, and both sorts of pepper.
Cover close, and simmer till done enough. Drain
and boil quick the liquor, and put on when cold.
Serve with fennel. It is an elegant dish, and ex-
tremely good.
To dress Halibut.
Having cut the Halibut in thin slices, fry them with
butter, afterwards boil the bones of the fish with four
onions, some celery and thyme, for half an hour, in a
little water. Then strain it, and stew the fish for half
an hour in a little water, with the addition of some but-
ter browned. Season with white pepper, a spoonful
of catsup, salt, and mace, a spoonful of leinon juce,
and a little shred leinon peel. Add flour and fresh
butter to thicking it.
Some people boil the cod whole; but a large head
and shoulders contain all the fish that is proper to help
the thinner parts being overdone and tasteless before
the thick are ready. But the whole fish may be pur-
chased at times more reasonable ; and the lower half,
if sprinkled and hung up, will be in high perfection
one or two days. Or it may be made salter and served
with egg-sauce, potatoes, and parsneps.
Cod when small is usually very cheap. If boiled
quite fresh it is watery but eats excellently if salted
and hung up for a day, to give it firmness then stuff
ed, and broiled, or boiled.
Cod's Head and shoulders,
Will eat much finer by having a little salt rubbed
down the bone, and along the thick part, even if it be
eaten the same day.
COD.


FISH,
Tie it up, and put it on the fire in cold water which
will completely cover it ; throw a handful of salt into
it. Great care should be taken to serve it without the
smallest speck of black or scum, Garnish with a ļarge
quantity of double parsley, lemon, horse-radish, and
the milt, roe, and liver, and fried smeļts if approved,
If with smelts, be careful that no water hangs about the
fish ; or the beauty of the smelts will be taken off as well
as their flavour.
Serve with plenty of Oyster or Shrimp sauce, and
anchovy and butter.
Crimp Cod.
Boil, broil, or fry.
Cod Sounds boiled,
Soak them in warm water half and hour, then scrape
and clean ; and if to be dressed white, boil them in milk
and water ; when tender, serve them in a napkin, with
egg sauce. The salt must not be much soaked out, un
less for fricassee,
Cod Sounds to look like small Chickens,
A good maigre-day dish. Wash three large sounds
nicely, and boil in milk and water, but not top tender;
when cold, put a forcemeat of chopped oysters, crumbs
of bread, a bit of butter, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and the
yolks of two eggs ; spread it thin'over the sounds, and roll
up each in the form of a chicken, skewering it ; then
lard them as you would chickens, dust a little flour over,
and roast them in a tin oven slowly. When done enough,
pour over them a fine oyster-sauce.--Serye for side or
corner dish.
To broil Cod Sounds.
Scald in hot water, rub well with salt, pull off the
dirty skin, and put them to simmer till tender ; take
them out, flour, and broil. While this is doing, season
a little brown gravy with pepper, salt, a tea spoonful of
soy, and a little mustard ; give it a boil with a bit
four and butter, and pour it over the sounds.
D


38
FISH.
Cod Sounds ragout.
Prepare as above ; then stew them in white gravy
seasoned, cream, butter, and a little bit of flour added
before you serve, gently boiling up. A bit of lemon-
peel, nutmeg, and the least pounded mace, should give
the flavour.
Currie of Cod,
Should be made of sliced cod, that has either been
crimped or sprinkled a day, to make it firm. Fry it of a
fine brown with onions; and stew it with a good white
gravy, a little currie-powder, a bit of butter and flour,
three or four spoonfuls of rich cream, salt, and Cayenne,
if the powder be not hot enough.
To dress salt Cod.
Soak and clean the piece you mean to dress, then lay
it all night in water, with a glass of vinegar. Boil it
enough, then break it into flakes on the dish ; pour over
it parsneps boiled, beaten in a mortar, and then boil up
with cream and a large piece of butter rubbed with a
bit of flour. It may be served as above with egg-sauce
instead of the parsnep, and the root sent up whole ; or
the fish may be boiled and sent up without flaking, and
sauces as above.
STURGEON.
To dress fresh Sturgeon.
Cut slices, rub egg over them, then sprinkle with
crumbs of bread, parsley, pepper, salt; fold them in pa-
per, and broil gently.
Sauce: butter, anchovy, soy.
To roast Sturgeon.
Put it on a lark-spit, then tie it on a large spit ; baste
it constantly with butter, and serve with a good gravy,
an anchovy, a squeeze of Seville orange or lemon, and a
glass of sherry.
Another.
Put a piece of butter, rolled in flour, into a stew-pan
with four cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, two onions,
1


FISH.
39
some pepper and salt, half a pint of water, and a glass of
vinegar. Stir it over the fire till hot ; then let it become
lukewarm, and steep the fish in it an hour or two. But-
ter a paper well, tie it round, and roast it without letting
, the spit run through. Serve with sorrel and anchovy
sauce.
An excellent imitation of pickled Sturgeon.
Take a fine large turkey, but not old, pick it very
nicely, singe, and make it extremely clean : bone and
wash it, and tie it across and across with a bit of mat
string washed.clean. Put into a very nice tin saucepan
a quart of water, a quart of vinegar, a quart of white (but
not sweet) wine, and a very large handful of salt; boil
and skim it well, then boil the turkey. When done
enough, tighten the strings, and lay it upon a dish with a
weight of two pounds over it.
Boil the liquor half an hour; and when both are cold,
put the turkey into it. This will keep some months, and
eats more delicately than sturgeon ; vinegar, oil, and
sugar, are usually eaten with it. If more vinegar or
salt should be wanting, add when cold. Send fennel
over it to table.
Perch,
Put them into cold water, boil them carefully, and
serve with melted butter and soy. Perch are a most
delicate fish. They may be either fried or stewed, but
in stewing they do not preserve so good a flavour.
To fry Trout.
Scale, gut, and well wash; then dry them, and lay
them separately on a board before the fire, after dusting
some flour over them. Fry them of a fine colour with
fresh dripping ; serve with crimp parsley, and plain
butter.
Perch may be done the same way.
Trout a-la-Genevoise,
Clean the fish very well; put it into your stew-pan,
adding half Champaigne, and half Mosselle, or Rhenish,


40
Fisã.
6r sherry wine. Season it with pepper, salt and onion,
a few cloves stuck in it, and a small bunch of parsley
and thyme ; put it in a crust of French bread; set it on
á quick fire. When the fish is done, take the bread out,
bruise it; and then thicken the sauce, add flour and a
little butter, and let it boil up. See that your sauce is
of a proper thickness. Lay your fish on the dish, and
pour the sauce over it. Serve it with sliced lemon and
fried bread.
MACKEREL.
Boil, and serve with butter and fennel.
To broil them, split, and sprinkle with herbs, pepper;
and salt; or stuff with the same, crumbs and chopped
fennel.
Collared, as èel, page 42.
Potted; clean, season, and bake them in a pan withi
spice, bay-leaves, and some butter; when cold, lay them
in a potting-pot, and cover with butter.
Pickled; boil them, then boil some of the liquor, a few
peppers, bay-leaves, and some vinegar ; when cold pour
it over them,
Pickled Mackeret, called Caveach.
Clean and divide them ; then cut each side into three,
or, leaving them undivided, cut each side into five or six
pieces. To gix large mackerel, take near an ounce of
pepper, two nutmegs, a little mace, four cloves, and a
handful of salt, all in the finest powder ; mix, and mak-
ing holes in each bit of fish, thrust the seasoning into
them, rub each piece with some of it ; then fry them
brown in oil ; let them stand till cold, then put them in-
to a stone jar, and cover with vinegar; if to keep long,
pour oil on the top. Thus done, they may be preserved
for months.
To bake Pike.
Scale it, and open as near the throat as you can, then
stuff it with the following ; greated bread, herbs, ancho-
vies, oysters, suet, salt, pepper, mace, half a pint of
cream, four yolks of eggs; mix all over the fire till it


FISH.
41
thickens, then put it into the fish, and sew it up, but-
ter should be put over it in little bits, bake it. Serve
sauce of gravy, butter, and anchovy. Note: if, in help-
ing a pike, the back and belly are slit up, and each slice
gently drawn downwards, there will be fewer bones
given.
HADDOCK.
Boil; or broil with stuffing as under, having salted them
a day.
To dry Haddock.
Choose them of two or three pounds weight; take out
the gills, eyes, and entrails, and remove the blood from
the back bone. Wipe them dry, and put some salt into
the bodies and eyes. Lay them on a board for a night ;
then hang them up in a dry place, and after three or
four days they will be fit to eat ; skin and rub them with
egg, and strew crumbs over them. Lay them before
the fire, and baste with butter until brown enough.-
Serve with egg sauce.
Whitings, if large are excellent this way; and it will
prove an accommodation in the country where there is
no regular supply of fish.
Stuffing for Pike, Haddock, and small Cod.
Take equal parts of fat bacon, beef-suet, and fresh-
butter, some parsley, thyme, and savoury; a little oni-
on, and a few leaves of scented marjoram shred fine; an
anchovy or two; a little salt and nutmeg, and some pep-
per. Oysters will be an improvement with or without
anchovies; add crumbs and an egg to bind.
To fry Smelts.
They should not be washed more than is necessary to
clean them. Dry them in a cloth; then lightly four
them, but shake it off. Dip them into plenty of egg, then
into bread crumbs grated fine, and plunge them into a
good pan of boiling lard ; let them continue gently boil-
ing, and a few minutes will make them a bright yellow-
brown. Take care not to take off the light roughness
of the crumbs, or their beauty will be lost.


FISIÍ.
EELS.
Spitchcock Eels.
Take one or two large eels, leave the skin on, cut
them into pieces of three inches long, open them on the
belly-side, and clean them nicely ; wipe them dry, and
then wet them with beaten egg, and strew over on both
sides chopped parsley, pepper, salt, a very little sage,
and a bit of mace pounded fine and mixed with the sea-
soningRub the gridiron with a bit of suet, and broil
the fish of a fine colour.
Serve with anchovy and butter for sauce.
Fried Eels.
If small they should be curled round and fried, being
first dipped into egg and crumbs of bread.
Boiled Eels.
The small ones are best; do them in a small quantity
of water, with a good deal of parsley, which should be
served up with them and the liquor.
Serve chopped parsley and butter för säuce.
Eel Broth, very nourishing for the sick.
Do as above; but stew two hours, and add an onion
and peppercorns; salt to taste.
Collared Eel.
Bonë a large eel, but do not skin it; mix
pepper, salt,
hace, allspice, and a clove or two, in the finest powder,
and rub over the whole inside ; roll it tight, and bind
with a coarse tape.
Boil in salt and water till enough,
then add vinegar, and when cold keep the collar in
pickle. Serve it either whole or in slices. Chopped
sage, parsley, and a little thyme, knotted marjoram, and
savoury, mixed with the spices, greatly improve the
taste..
Flounders.
Let them be rubbed with salt inside and out, and lie
two hours to give them some firmness. Dip them into
eggs cover with crumbs, and fry them.


FISH
43
a row.
HERRINGS.
To smoke Herrings.
Clean, and lay them in salt and a little saltpetre one
night; then hang them on a stick, through the eyes, in
Have ready an old cask, in which put some
sawdust, and in the midst of it a heater red-hot ; fix the
stick over the smoke, and let them remain twenty-four
hours.
Fried Herrings.
Serve them of a light brown, with onions sliced and
fried.
Broiled Herrings.
Flour them first, and do of a good colour ; plain butter
for sauce.
Potted Herrings
Are very good done like Mackerel, see page 40.
To dress Red Herrings.
Choose those that are large and moist, cut them openg
and pour some boiling small beer over them to soak half
an hour; drain them dry; and make them just hot through
before the fire, then rub some cold butter over them and
serve. Egg-sauce, or buttered eggs, and mashed pota-
toes, should be sent up with them.
Baked Herrings.
Wash and drain without wiping them ; season with
allspice in fine powder, salt, and a few whole cloves; lay
them in a pan with plenty of black pepper, an onion, and
a few bay leaves. Add half vinegar and half small beer
enough to cover them. Put paper over the pan, and
bake in a slow oven. If you like, throw saltpetre over
them the night before, to make them look red. Gut, but
do not open them.
LOBSTERS AND SHRIMPS:
To pot Lobsters.
Hall-boil them, pick out the meat, cut it into small
bits, season with mace, white pepper, nutmeg, and salt,
press close into a pot, and cover with butter; bake half
an hour; put the spawn in. When cold take the lob-


FISH.
ster out, and put it into the pots with a little of the but-
ter. Beat the other butter in a mortar with some of the
spawn; then mix that coloured butter with as much as
will be sufficient to cover the pots, and strain it. Cay-
enne may be added, if approved.
Another way to pot Lobsters.
Take out the meat as whole as you can; split the tail
and remove the gut; if the inside be not watery, add that.
Season with mace, nutmeg, white pepper, salt, and a
clove or two, in the finest powder. Lay a little fine but-
ter at the bottom of the pan, and the lobster smooth ove
it, with bay-leaves between; cover it with butter, and
bake gently. When done, pour the whole on the bottom
of the seive, and with a fork lay the pieces into potting
pots, some of each sort, with the seasoning about it.-
When cold pour clarified butter over, but not hot. It
will be good next day; or highly seasoned, and thick
covered with butter will keep some time.
Potted lobster may be used cold, or as a fricassee, with
a cream sauce; it then looks very nicely and eats excel-.
lently, especially if there is spawn.
Mackerel, Herrings, and Trout, are good potted, as
above.
Stewed Lobster, a very high relish.
Pick the lobster, put the berries into a dish that has a
lamp, and rub them down with a bit of butter, two
spoonfuls of any sort of gravy, one of soy, or walnut-
ketchup, a little salt and Cayenne, and a spoonful of
port ; stew the lobster cut into bits with the gravy as
above.
Buttered Lobsters.
Pick the meat out, cut it, and warm with a little
weak brown gravy, nutmeg, salt, pepper, and butter,
with a little flour. If done white, a little white gravy
and cream.
To roast Lobsters.
When you have half-boiled the lobster take it out of
the water, and while hot, rub it with butter and lay it
before the fire. Continue basting it with butter till it
has a fine froth.


FISH.
45
Currie for Lobsters or Prawns.
Take them from the shells, and lay into a pan; with a
small piece of mace, three or four spoonfuls of veal gravy;
and four of cream; rub smooth one or two tea-spoonfuls
of currie-powder, a tea-spoonful of flour; and an ounce
of butter; simmer an hour; squeeze half a lemon in,
and add salt.
Prawns and Cray-fish in jelly, a beautiful dish.
Make a savoury fish-jelly, and put some into the bot-
tom of a deep small dish; when cold lay the cray-fish with
their back downwards, and pour more jelly over them.
Turn out when cold.
To butter Prawns or Shrimps.
Take them out of the shells ; and warm them with a
little good gravy, a bit of butter and flour, a scrape of
nutmeg, salt, and pepper ; simmer a minute or two,
and serve with sippets; or with a cream sauce, instead
of brown.
To pot Shrimps.
When boiled, take them out of the skins, and season
them with salt, white pepper, and a very little mace
and cloves. Press them into a pot, set it in the oven
ten minutes, and when cold put butter.
CRABS.
Hot Crab.
Pick the meat out of a crab, clear the shell from the
head, then put the meat with a little nutmeg, salt, pep-
per, a bit of butter, crumbs of bread, and three spoonfuls
of vinegar, into the shell again, and set it before fire.
You may brown it with a salamander.
Dry toast should be served to eat it upon.
Dressed Crab, cold.
Empty the shells, and mix the flesh with oil, vinegar,
salt, and a little white pepper and Cayenne : then put
the mixture into the large shell, and serve. Very little
oil is necessary.


46
FISH.
OYSTERS.
To feed Oysters.
Put them into water, and wash them with a birch be-
som till quite clean; then lay them bottom downwards
into a pan, sprinkle with flour or oatmeal and salt, and
cover with water. Do the same every day, and they
will fatten. The water should be pretty salt.
To stew Oysters.
Open and separate the liquor from them, then wash
them from the grit ; strain the liquor, and put with the
oysters a bit of mace and lemon-peel, and a few white
peppers. Simmer them very gently, and put some
cream, and a little flour and butter.
Serve with sippets.
Boiled Oysters
Eat well. Let the shells be nicely cleaned first ; and
serve in them, to eat with cold butter.
To scallop Oysters.
Put them with crumbs of bread, pepper, salt, nutmeg,
and a bit of butter, into scallop-shells or saucers, and
bake before the fire in a Dutch oven.
Fried Oysters, to garnish boiled fish.
Make a batter of flour, milk, and eggs, season it a very
little, dip the oysters into it, and fry them a fine yellow
brown. A little nutmeg should be put into the season-
ing, and a few crumbs of bread into the flour.
Oyster Sauce.
See Sauces.
Oyster Loaves.
Open them, and save the liquor; wash them in it; then
strain it through a sieve, and put a little of it into a tos-
ger, with a bit of butter and flour, white pepper, a scrape
of nutmeg, and a little cream. Stew them, and cut in
dice ; put them into rolls sold for the purpose.
Oyster Patties.
See PATTIES.


MEATS.
47
To pickle Oysters.
Wash four dozen of the largest oysters you can get,
in their own liquor, wipe them dry, strain the liquor
off, adding to it a dessert-spoonful of pepper, two blades
of mace, a table-spoonful of salt, if the liquor be pot very
salt, three of white wine, and four of vinegar.-Simmer
the oysters a few minutes in the liquor, then put them in
small jars, and boil the pickle up, skim it, and when cold,
pour over the oysters ; cover close.
Another way to pickle Oysters.
Open the number you intend to pickle, put them into
a saucepan with their own liquor for ten minutes, sim-
mer them very gently; then put them into a jar, one by
one, that none of the grit may stick to them, and cover
them when cold with the pickle thus made.-Boil the
liquor with a bit of mace, lemon-peel, and black pep-
pers, and to every hundred put two spoonfuls of the best
undistilled vinegar.
They should be kept in small jars, and tied close with
bladder, for the air will spoil them.
Note. Directions for making Fish Pies will be found
under the head Pies.
MEATS.
To choose Meats.
Venison. If the fat be clear, bright, and thick, and the
cleft part smooth and close, it is young; but if the cleft
is wide and tough, it is old. To judge of its sweetness,
run a very sharp narrow knife into the shoulder or
haunch, and you will know by the scent. Few people
like it when it has much of the haut-gout.
Beef. If the flesh of ox-beef is young, it will have
a fine smooth open grain, be of a good red, and feel
tender. The fat should look white rather than yellow;
for when that is of a deep colour, the meat is seldom


48
MEATS.
good : beef fed by oil cakes is in general 80, and the
Hesh is flabby. The grain of cow-beef is closer and
the fat whiter, than that of ox-beef; but the lean is not
of so bright a red. The grain of bull beef is closer
still, and the fat hard and skinny, the lean of a deep red,
and a stronger scent. Ox beef is the reverse. Ox-beef
is the richest and largest ; but in small families, and to
some tastes, heifer-beef is better if finely fed. In old
meat there is a streak of horn in the ribs of@beef : the
harder this is, the older; and the flesh is not so finely
flavoured.
Veal.--The flesh of a bull calf is firmest, but not so
white. The fillet of the cow-calf is generally preferred
for the udder. The'whitest is s not the most juicy, hav-
ing been made so by frequent
bleeding and having had
whiting to lick. Choose the meat of which the kidney
is well covered with white thick fat. If the bloody vein
in the shoulder looks blue, or of a bright red it is newly
killed ; but any other colour shows it stale. The other
parts should be dry and white ; if clammy or spotted,
the meat is stale and bad. The kidney turns first in the
loin, and the suet will not then be firm.
Mutton.-Choose this by the fineness of its grain, good
colour, and firm white fat. It is not the better for being
'young; if of a good breed and well fed, it is better for
age; but this only holds with wether-mutton : the flesh
of the ewe is paler, and the texture finer, Ram mutton
is very strong flavoured, the flesh is of a deep red, and
the fat is spongy.
Lamb.-Observe the neck of a fore quarter; if the
yein is bluish, it is fresh ; if it has a green or yellow cast,
it is stale. In the hind quarter, if there is a faint smell
under the kidney, and the knuckle is limp, the meat is
stale. If the eyes are sunk, the head is not fresh. Grass
lamb comes into season in April or May, and continues
till August. House-lamb may be had in great towns al-
most all the year, but is in highest perfection in Decem-
ber and January
Pork-Pinch the lean, and if young it will break,
If the rind is tough, thick, and cannot easily be im.


MEATS.
49
1
pressed by the finger it is old. A thin rind is a merit
in all pork. When fresh, the flesh will be smooth and
cool ; if clammy it is tainted. What is called measly
pork is very unwholesome; and may be known by the
fat being full of kernels, which in good pork is never
the case. Pork fed at still-houses does not answer for
curing any way, the fat being spongy. Diary-fed pork
is the best.
Bacon.--If the rind is thin, the fat firm, and of a
red tinge, the lean tender, of a good colour, and ad.
hering to the bone, you may conclude it good, and not
old. If there are yellow streaks in it, it is going, if
not already rusty.
Hams-Stick a sharp knife under the bone : if it
comes out with a pleasant smell, the ham is good ; but if
the knife is daubed and has a bad scent, do not buy it.
Hams short in the hock are best, and long legged pigs
are not be chosen for any preparation of pork.
Brawn.—The horny part of young brawn will feel
moderately tender, and the flavour will be better ; the
rind of old will be hard.
Observalions on purchasing, keeping, and dressing Meat.
In every sort of provisions, the best of the kind goes
farthest; it cuts out with most advantage, and affords
most nourishment. Round of beef, fillet of veal, and
leg of mutton, are joints that bear higher price ; but
as they have more solid meat, they deserve the prefer-
It is worth notice, however, that those joints
which are inferior may be dressed as palatably : and
being cheaper ; they ought to be bought in turn; for,
when they are weighed with the prime pieces, it makes
the price of these come lower.
In loins of meat, the long pipe that runs by the bone
should be taken out, as it is apt to taint; as also the
kernels of beef Rumps and edge bones of beef are of-
ten bruised by the blows the drovers give the beasts,
and the part that has been struck always taints; there-
fore do not purchase these joints if bruised.
ence.


50
DIEATS.
The shank-bones of mutton should be saved; and
after soaking and brushing, may be added to give rich-
ness to gravies or soups. They are also particularly
nourishing for sick persons.
When sirloins of beef, or loins of veal or mutton,
come in, part of the suet may be cut off for puddings,
or to clarify.
Dripping will baste every thing as well as butter,
except fowls and game; and for kitchen pies, nothing
else should be used.
The fat of a neck or loin of mutton makes a far light-
er pudding than suet.
Meat and vegatables, that the frost has touched,
should be soaked in cold water two or three hours
before used, or more if they are much iced. Putting
them into hot water, or to the fire, till thawed, makes
it impossible for any heat to dress them properly after-
wards.
In warm weather, meat should be examined well
when it comes in: and if flies have touched it, the part
must be cut off, and then well washed. In the height
of summer, it is a very safe way to let meat that is to
be salted lie an hour in very cold water, rubbing, well
any part likely to have been fly-blown; then wipe it
quite dry, and have salt ready, and rub it thorougly
in every part, throwing a handful over it besides. Turn
it every day, and rub the pickle in, which will make it
ready for the table in three or four days. If to be very
much corned, wrap it in well floured cloth, after rub-
bing it with salt. This last method will corn fresh beef
fit for the table the day it comes in, but it must be put
into the pot when the water boils.
If the weather permit, meat eats much better for
hanging two or three days before it is salted.
The water in which meat has been boiled makes an
excellent soup for the poor, by adding to it vegetables,
oatmeal, or peas.
Roast-beef bones, or shank bones of ham, make fine
peas soup; and should be boiled with the peas the day
before eaten, that the fat may be taken off.


DIE ATS.
51
1
dry it.
In some families great loss is sustained by the spoil-
ing of meat. The best way to keep what is to be eaten
unsalted, is, as before directed, to examine it well, wipe
it every day, and put some pieces of charcoal over it.
If meat is brought from a distance in warm weather,
the butcher should be ordered to cover it close, and
bring it early in the morning ; but even then, if is kept
on the road while he serves the customers who live
Dearest to him, it will very likely be fly-blown. This
happens often in the country.
Wash all meat before you dressit: if for boiling, the
colour will be better for soaking; but if for roasting,
Boiling in a well-floured cloth will make meat white.
Particular care must be taken that the pot is well
skimmed the moment it boils, otherwise the foulness
will be dispersed over the meat. The more soups'or
broth are skimmed, the better and cleaner they will be.
The boiler and utensils should be kept delicately
clean.
Pat the meat into cold water, and flour it well first.
Meat boiled quick will be hard; but care must be tak-
en that in boiling slow it does not stop, or the meat will
be underdone.
If the steam is kept in, the water will not lesson
much; therefore when you wish it to boil away, take
off the cover of the soup-pot. ,
Vegátables should not be dressed with the meat, ex-
cept carrots or parsneps with boiled beef.
As to the length of time required for roasting and
boiling, the size of the joint must direct;'as also the
strength of the fire, the nearness of the meat to it, and
in boiling, the regular though slow progress it makes ;
for if the cook, when told to hinder the copper from
boiling quick, lets it stop from boiling up at all, the us-
ual time will not be sufficient, and the meat will be
underdone.
Weigh the meat; and allow for all solid joints a
quarter of an hour for every pound, and some minutes
(from ten to twenty) over, according as the family like
it done.


52
MEATE.
A ham of twenty pounds will take four hours and a
half, and others in proportion.
A tongue, if dry, takes four hours slow boiling, after
soaking; a tongue out of pickle, from two hours and a
half to three hours, or more if very large; it must be
judged by feeling whether it is very tender.
A leg of pork, or of lamb, takes the allowance of
twenty minutes, above a quarter of an hour to a pound.
In roasting beef of ten pounds will take above two
hours and a half; twenty pounds will take three hour's
and three quarters.
A neck of mutton will take an hour and a half, if
kept at a proper distance. À chine of pork, two hours.
The meat should be put at a good distance from the
fire, and brought gradually nearer when the inner part
becomes hot, which will prevent its being scorched
while yet raw. Meat should be much basted ; and
when nearly done, floured to make it look frothed.
Veal and mutton should have a little paper put over
the fat to preserve it. If not fat enough to allow for
basting, a little good dripping answers as well as bat-
ter.
The cook should be careful not to run the spit through
the best parts; and should observe that it be well clean-
ed before and at the time of serving, or a black stain
appears on the meat. In many joints the spit will pass
into the bones, and run along them for some distance,
so as not to injure the prime of the meat ; and the cook
should have leaden skewers to balance it with ; for, want
of which, ignorant servants are often troubled at the
time of serving
In roasting meat it is a very good way to put a little
salt and water into the dripping-pan, and baste for a
little while with this, before using its own fat or drip-
ping. When dry, dust it with flour, and baste as usual.
Salting meat before it is put to roast draws out the
gravy; it should only be sprinkled when almost done.
Time, distance, basting often, and a clear fire of a
proper size for what is required, are the first articles of
a good cook's attention in roasting.


JILATS.
53
Old meats do not require so much dressing as young;
not that they are sooner done, but they can be eaten
with the gravy more in.
A piece of writing-paper should be twisted round
the bone at the knuckle of a leg or shoulder of lamb,
mutton or vension, when roasted, before they are served.
When you wish fried things to look as well as possi-
ble, do them twice over with egg and crumbs. Bread
that is not stale enough to grate quite fine, will not look
well. The fat you fry in must always be boiling hot
the moment the meat, fish, &c. are put in, and kept so
till finished; a small quantity never fries well.
To keep meat hot-- It is best to take it up when done,
though the company may not be come; set the dish over
a pan of boiling water, put a deep cover over it so as not
to touch the meat, and then throw a cloth over that.
This way will not dry up the gravy.
VENSION.
To keep Vension.
Preserve the vension dry, wash it with milk and wa-
ter very clean, and dry it with clean cloths till not the
least damp remains, then dust pounded ginger over ev-
ery part, which is a good preventative against the fly.
By thus managing and watching, it will hang a fortnight.
When to be used, wash it with a little lukewarm water,
and dry it. Pepper is likewise good to keep it.
To dress Vension.
A haunch of buck will take three hours and a half,
or three quarters, roasting : dove, only three hours and
a quarter. Vension should be rather under than over
done.
Spread a sheet of white paper with butter, and put
it over the fat, first sprinkling it with a little salt; then
lay a coarse paste on strong paper, and cover the
haunch; tie it with fine packthread, and set it at dis-
tance from the fire, which must be a good one. Baste
it often: ten minutes before serving take off the paste,
X. 2


MEATS.
draw the meat nearer the fire, and baste it with butter
and a good deal of flour, to make it froth up well.
Gravy for it should be put into a boat, and not into
the dish (unless there is none in the venison,) and made
thus: Cut off the fat from two or three pounds of a loin
of old mutton, and set in steaks on a gridiron for a few
minutes just to brown one side; put them into a sauce.
pan with a quart of water, cover quite close for an hour,
and simmer it gently; then uncover it, and stew till the
gravy is reduced to a pint. Season with salt only.
Current-jelly sauce must be served in a boat.
Formerly pap-sance was eaten with venison; which,
as some still like it, it may be necessary to direct.
Grate white bread, and boil it with port wine, water,
and a large stick of cinnamon; and when quite smooth
take out the cinnamon and add sugar. Claret may be
used for it.
Make the jelly-sauce thus. Beat some currant-jelly
and a spoonful or two of port wine, and set it over the fire
till melted. Where jelly runs short put more wine
and a few lumps of sugar, to the jelly, and melt
as above. Serve with French beans
Haunch, Neck, and Shoulder of Venison.
Roast with paste as directed above, and the same
sauce.
To stew a Shoulder of Mutton.
Let the meat hang till you judge proper to dress it
then take out the bone, beat the meat with a rolling-
pin, lay some slices of mutton fat, that have lain a few
hours in a little port wine, among it, sprinkle a little
pepper and allspice over it in fine powder, roll it up
tight, and tie it. Set it in a stew-pan that will only just
hold it, with some mutton or beef gravý not strong, half
à pint of port wine, and some pepper and allspice.
Simmer it close covered, and as slow as you can, for three
or four hours. When quite tender, take off the tape,
set the meat on a dish, and strain the gravy over it. Serve
with current-jelly sauce.
This is the best way to dress this joint, unless it is


MEATS.
55
very fat, and then it should be roasted. The bone
should be stewed with it.
Breast of Venison.
Do it as the shoulder, or make it into a small pasty.
Hashed Venison
Should be warmed with its own gravy, or some without
seasoning, as before; and only warmed through, not
boiled. If there is no fat left, cut some slices of mutton
fat, set it on the fire with a little port wine and sugar,
simmer till dry; then put to the hash, and it will eat as
well as the fat of the yenison.
For Venison pasty, look under the head PASTRY; as
likewise an excellent imitation,
BEEF
To keep Beef
The butcher should take out the kernels in the neck
pieces, where the shoulder-clod is taken off, two from
each round of beef; one is in the middle, which is called
the pope's eye : the other from the flap; there is also
one in the thick flank, in the middle of the fat. If these
are not taken out, especially in the summer, salt will be
of no use for keeping the meat sweet. There is anoth-
er kernel between the rump and the edgebone.
Asthe butchers seldom attend to this matter, the cook
should take out the kernels; and then rub the salt well
into such beef as is for boiling, and slightly sprinkle
that which is for roasting.
The flesh of cattle that are killed when not perfectly
cleared of food soon spoils. They should fast twenty-
four hours in winter, and double that time in summer,
before being killed.
To salt beef or Pork, for eating immediately.
The piece should not weigh more an five or six
pounds. Salt it very thoroughly just before you put
it into the pot; take a coarse cloth, flour it well, put
the meat in, and fold it up close. Put it into a pot of
boiling water, and boil it as long as you would any


MEATS.
The Dutch way to salt Beef.
Take a lean piece of beef; rub it well with treacle
or brown sugar, and let it be turned often. In three
days wipe it, and salt it with common salt and saltpetre
beaten fine ; rub these well in, and turn it every day
for a fortnight. Roll it tight in a coarse cloth, and press
it under a large weight; hang to dry in a wood-smoke,
but turn it upside down every day. Boil it in pump-
water, and press it: it will grate or cut into shivers, like
Dutch beef.
Beef a-la-mode.
Choose a piece of thick Aank of a fine heifer or ox.
Cut into long slices some fat bacon, but quite free from
yellow ; let each bit be near an inch thick ; dip them
into vinegar, and then into a seasoning ready prepar-
ed, of salt, black pepper, allspice, and a clove, ail in
fine powder, with parsley, chives, thyme, savoury, and
knotted marjoram, shred as small as possible, and well
mixed. With a sharp knife make holes deep enough to
let in the larding, then rub the beef over with the sea-
soning, and bind it up tight with tape. Set it in a well-
tinned pot over a fire or rather store; three or four on-
ions must be fried brown and put to the beef, with two
or three carrots, one turnip, a head or two of celery, and
a small quantity of water, let it simmer gently ten or
twelve hours, or till extremely tender, turning the meat
twice.
Put the gravy into a pan, remove the fat, keep the
beef covered, then put them together, and add a glass of
port wine. Take off the tape, and serve with the vege-
table: or you may strain
them off, and send them up cut
into dice for garnish. Onions roasted, and then stewed:
with the gravy, are a great improvement. A tea-cup-
ful of vinegar should be stewed with the beef.
Africandeau of Beef.
Take a nice bit of lean beef; lard it with bacon sea-
soned with pepper, salt, cloves, mace, and allspice.
Put it into a stew-pan with a pint of broth, a glass of
white wine, a bundle of parsley, all sorts of sweet


58
MEATS.
herbs, a clove of garlick, a shallot or two, four cloves,
pepper and salt. When the meat is become tender,
cover it close; skim the sauce well, and strain it; set
it on the fire and let it boil till it is reduced to a glaze.
Glaze the larded side with this, and serve the meat on
sorrel-sauce.
To stew a rump of Beef.
Wash it well; and season it high with pepper, Cay-
enne, salt, allspice, three cloves, and a blade of mace,
all in fine powder. Bind it up tight, and lay it into a
pot that will just hold it. Fry three large onions sliced,
and put them to it, with three carrots, two turnips, a
shallot, four cloves, a blade of mace, and some celery.
Cover the meat with ºg
good beef-broth, or weak gravy.
Simmer it as gently as possible for several hours, till
quite tender. Clear off the fat; and add to the gravy
half a pint of port wine, a glass of vinegar, and a large
spoon of ketchup; simmer half an hour, and serve in a
deep dish. Half a pint of table beer may be added.-
The herbs to be used should be burnet, tarragon, pars-
ley, thyme, basil, savoury, marjoram, penny-royal,
knotted marjoram, and some chives if you can get them,
but observe to proportion the quantities to the pungency
of the several sorts ; let there be. a good handful all
together.
Garnish with carrots, turnips, or truffles and morels,
or pickles of different colours, cut small and laid in little
heaps separate ; chopped parsley, chives, beet-root, &c.
If, when done, the gravy is too much to fill the dish, take
only a part to season for serving, but the less water the
better; and to increase the richness, add a few beef-
bones and shanks of mutton in stewing.
A spoonful or two of made mustard is a great im-
provement to the gravy.
Rump roasted is excellent; but in the country it is
generally sold whole with the edgebone, or cut across,
instead of lengthways as in London, where one piece is
for boiling, and the rump for stewing or roasting. This
must be attended to, the whole being too largo to dress
together.


MEATS.
59
Stewed Rump another way.
Half roast it; then put it into a large pot with three
pints of water, one of small beer, one of port wine, some
salt, three or four spoonfuls of vinegar, two of ketchup,
a bunch of sweet herbs of various kinds,(such as burnet,
tarragon, parsley, thyme, basil, savoury, penny-royal,
marjoram, knotted marjoram, and a leaf or two of sage,)
some onions, cloves, and Cayenne; cover it close, and
simmer till quite tender; two or three hours will do it.
When done lay it into a deep dish, set it over hot water,
and cover it close. Skim the gravy; put in a few pick-
led mushrooms, truffles, morels, and oysters, if agreea-
ble, but it is very good without; thicken the gravy with
flour and butter, and heat it with the above, and pour
over the beef,-Forcemeat balls of veal, anchovies,
bacon, suet, herbs, spice, bread, and eggs, to bind, are
a great improvement.
To stew a Brisket of Beef.
Put the part that has the hard fat into a stew-pot with
a small quantity of water ; let it boil up, and skim it
thoroughly; then add carrots, turnips, onions, celery,
and a few pepper-corns. Stew it extremely tender ;'
then take out the flat bones, and remove all the fat from
the soup. Either serve that and the meat in a tureen,
or the soup alone, and the moat on a dish, garnished with
some vegetables. The following sauce is much admir-
ed, served with the beef :-Take half a pint of the soup,
and mix it with a spoonful of ketchup, a glass of port
wine, a tea-spoonful of made mustard, a little flour, a bit
of butter and salt; boil all together a few minutes, then
pour it round the meat. Chop capers, walnuts, red cab-
bage, pickled cucumbers, and chives or pasley, small,
but in several heaps over it.
To press Beef:
Salt a bit of brisket, thin part of the flank, or the tops
of the ribs, with salt and saltpetre five days, then boil it
gently till extremely tender; put it under a great weight,
or in a cheese-press, till perfectly cold.
It eats excellently cold, and for sandwiches.


60
MEATS.
To make hunter's Beef.
To a round of beef that weighs twenty-five pounds,
take three ounces of saltpetre, three ounces of the
coarsest sugar, an ounce of cloves, a nutmeg, half an
ounce of allspice, add three handfuls of common salt, all
in the finest powder.
The beef should hang two or three days; then rub the
above well into it, and turn and rub it every day for twa
or three weeks. The bone must be taken out at first,
When to be dressed, dip it into cold water, to take off
the loose spice, bind it up tight with tape, and put it in:
to a pan with a tea-cupful of water at the bottom, cover
the top of the meat with shred suet, and the pan with a
brown crust and paper, and bake it five or six hours.
When cold take off the paste and tape.
The gravy is very fine; and a little of it adds greatly
to the favour of any hash, soup, &c.
Both the gravy and the beef will keep some time. The
meat should be cut with a very sharp knife, and quite
smooth, to prevent waste.
An excellent mode of dressing Beef.
Hang three ribs three or four days ; take out the bones
from the whole length, sprinkle it with salt, roll the meat
tight, and roast it. Nothing can look nicer. The above
done with spices, &c. and baked as hunter's beef, is ex-
cellent.
To collar Beef.
Choose the thin end of the flank of fine mellow beef,
but not too fat ; lay it into a dish with salt and saltpetre,
turn and rub it every day for a week, and keep it cool.
Then take out every bone and gristle, remove the skin
of the inside part, and cover it thick with the following
seasoning cut small; a large handful of parsley, the same
of sage, some thyme, marjoram, and penny-royal, pep-
per, salt, and allspice. Roll the meat up as tight as
possible, and bind it, then boil it gently for seven or eight
hours. A cloth must be put round before the tape. Put
the beef under a good weight while hot, without undo-
ing it: the shape will then be oval. Part of a breast,


MEATS.
61
of veal rolled in with the beef, looks and eats very
well.
Beef-sleaks
Should be cut from a rump that has hung a few days.
Broil them over a very clear or charcoal fire : put into
the dish a little minced shallot, and a table-spoonful of
ketchup : and rub a bit of butter on the steak the mo-
ment of serving. It should be turned often, that the
gravy may not be drawn out on either side.
This dish requires to be eaten so hot and fresh done,
that it is not in perfection if served with any thing else.
Pepper and salt should be added when taking it off the
fire.
Beef-steaks and Oyster Sauce.
Strain off the liquor from the oysters, and throw them
into cold water to take off the grit, while you simmer the
liquor with a bit of mace and lemon-peel; then put the
oysters in, stew them a few minutes, and a little cream
if you have it, and some butter rubbed in a bit of flour;
let them boil up once ; and have rump-steaks well sea-
soned and broiled, ready for throwing the oyster-sauce
over, the moment you are to serve.
Steved Beef-steaks.
Beat them a little with a rolling-pin, flour and season,
then fry with sliced onion of a fine light brown; lay the
steaks into a stew-pan, and pour as much boiling water
over them as will serve for sauce: stew them very gently
half an hour, and add a spoonful of ketchup, or walnut-
liquor, before you serve.
Italian Beef-steaks.
Cut a fine large steak from a rump that has been well
hung, or it will do from any tender part: beat it; and
season with pepper, salt, and onion ; lay it into an iron
stew-pan that has a cover to fit quite close, and set it by
the side of the fire without water. Take care it does not
burn, but it must have a strong heat; in two or three
hours it will be quite tender, and then serve with its
own gravy.


62
MEATS.
Beef Collops.
Cut thin slices of beef from the rump, or any other
tender part, and divide them into pieces three inches
long ; beat them with a blade of a knife, and flour them.
Fry the collops quick in butter two minutes, then lay
them into a small stew-pan, and cover them with a pint
of gravy, add a bit of butter rubbed in flour, pepper,
salt, the least bit of shallot shred as fine as possible, half
a walnut, four small pickled cucumbers, and a tea-
spoonful of capers cut small. Take care that it does
not boil; and serve the stew in a very hot covered dish.
Beef Palates.
Simmer them in water several hours, till they will
peel; then cut the palates into slices,or leave them whole,
as you choose ; and stew them in a rich gravy till as ten-
der as possible. Before you serve, season them with
Cayenne, salt and ketchup. If the gravy was drawn
clear add also some butter and flour.
If to be served white, boil them in milk, and stew them
in fricassee-sauce, adding cream, butter, flour and mush-
room-powder, and a little pounded mace.
Beef-Cakes for a side dish of dressed Meat.
Pound some beef that is underdone with a little fat
bacon, or ham ; season with pepper, salt, and a little
shallot, or garlick; mix them well, and make it into
small cakes three inches long, and half as wide and thick;
fry them in a light brown, and serve them in a good
To pot Beef
Take two pounds of lean beef, rub it with saltpetre,
and let it lie one night ; then salt with common salt,
and cover it with water four days in a small pan. Dry
it with a cloth, and season with black pepper; lay it into
as small a pan as will hold it, cover it with coarse paste,
and bake it five hours in a very cool oven. Put no
liquor in.
When cold, pick out the strings and fat; beat the
meat very fine with a quarter of a pound of fine butter,
just warm, but not oiled, and as inueh of the gravy as
thick gravy


MEATS.
63
will make it into a paste; put it into very small pots,
and cover them with melted butter.
Another way.—Take beef that has been dressed, either
boiled or roasted ; beat it in a mortar with some pepper,
salt, a few cloves, grated nutmeg, and a little fine butter
just warm.
This eats well, but the colour is not so fine. It is a good
way for using the remains of a large joint.
To dress the inside of a cold Sirloin of Beef.
Cut out all the meat, and a little fat, into pieces as
thick as your finger, and two inches long : dredge it with
flour; and fry in butter, of a nice brown: drain the but-
ter from the meat and toss it up in a rich gravy, season-
ed with pepper, salt, anchovy, and shallot. Do not let
it boil on any account. Before you serve add two spoon-
fuls of vinegar. Garnish with crimped parsley.
Fricassee of cold roast Beef.
Cut the beef into very thin slices, shred a handful of
parsley very small, cut an onion into quarters, and put
all together into a stew-pan, with a piece of butter and
some strong broth; season with salt and pepper, and sim-
mer very gently a quarter of an hour; then mix into
it the yolks of two eggs, a glass of port wine, and a spoon-
ful of vinegar; stir it quick, rub the dish with shallot,
and turn the fricassee into it.
To dress cold Beef that has not been done enough, called
Beef-Olives.
Cut slices half an inch thick, and four inches square;
lay them on forcemeat of crumbs of bread, shallot, a lit-
tle suet, or fat, pepper, and salt. Roll them, and fasten
with a small skewer; put them into a stew-pan with
some gravy made of the beef bones, or the gravy of the
meat, and a spoonful or two of water, and stew them till
tender. Fresh meat will do.
To dress the same called Sanders.
Mince beef or mutton, small, with onion, pepper, and
salt; add a little gravy; put it into scallop-shells, or
saucers, making them three parts full, and fill them


64
MEATS.
up with potatoes, mashed with a little cream : put a bit
of butter on the top, and brown them in an oven, or be-
fore the fire, or with a salamander.
To dress the same, called Cecils.
Mince any kind of meat, crumbs of bread, a good
deal of onion, some anchovies, lemon-peel, salt, nutmeg,
chopped parsley, pepper, and a bit of butter warm, and
mix these over a fire for a few minutes; when cool
enough, make them up into balls of the size and shape of
a turkey's egg, with an egg; sprinkle them with fine
crumbs, and then fry them of a yellow brown and serve
with gravy as before directed for beef-olives.
To mince Beef.
Shred the underdone part fine, with some of the fat,
put into a small stew-pan, with some onion or shallot, (a
very little will do,) a little water, pepper, and salt; boil
it till the onion is quite soft; then put some of the gravy
of the meat to it, and the mince. Do not let it boil. Have
a small hot dish with sippets of bread ready, and pour the
mince into it, but first mix a large spoonful of vinegar
with it; if shallot-vinegar is used, there will be no need
of the onion nor the raw shallot.
To hash Beef.
Do it the same as in the last receipt; only the meat
is to be in slices, and you may add a spoonful of walnut
liquor or ketchup.
Observe, that it is owing to boiling hashes or minces,
that they get hard. All sorts of stews, or meat dressed
a second time, should be only simmered ; and this last
only hot through.
Beef a-la-vingrette.
Cut a slice of underdone boiled beef three inches
thick, and a little fat ; stew it in half a pint of water, a
glass of white wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion,
and a bay leaf ; season it with three cloves pounded,
and pepper, till the liquor is nearly wasted away, turn-
ing it once. When cold, serve it. Strain off the gravy,
and mix it with a little vinegar for sauce.


NEATS.
65
Round of Beef
Should be carefully salted, and wet with the pickle for
eight or ten days. The bone should be cut out first, and
the beef skewered and tied up to make it quite round.
It may be stuffed with parsley, if approved ; in which
case the holes to admit the parsley must be made with a
sharp pointed knife, and the parsley coarsely cut and
stuffed in tight. As soon as it boils it should be skimmed
and afterwards kept boiling very gently.
Rolled beef that equals Hare.
Take the inside of a large sirloin, soak it in a glass of
port wine and a glass of vinegar mixed, for forty-eight
hours ; haye ready a very fine stuffing, and bind it up
tight. Roast it on a hanging-spit ; and baste it with a
glass of port'wine, the same quantity of vinegar, and a
tea-spoonful of pounded allspice. Larding improves the
look and flavour: serve with a rich gravy in the dish;
currant-jelly and melted butter in tureens.
To roast Tongue and Udder.
After cleaning the tongue well, salt it with common
salt and saltpetre three days; then boil it, and likewise
a fine young udder with some fat to it, till tolerably ten-
der; then tie the thick part of one to the thin part of the
other, and roast the tongue and udder together.
Serve them with good gravy, and currant-jelly sauce.
A few cloves should be stuck in the udder. This is an
excellent dish.
Some people like neats' tongues cured with the root,
in which case they look much larger ; but otherwise the
root must be cut off close to the gullet, next to the tongue,
but without taking away the fat under the tongue.--
The root must be soaked in salt and water, and extre-
mely well cleaned, before it is dressed ; and the
tongue should be laid in salt for a day and a night be-
fore pickled.
To pickle Tongues for boiling.
Cut off the root, but leave a little of the kernel and fat.
Sprinkle some salt, and let it drain from the slime till


66
MEATS.
next day, then for each tongue mix a large spoonful of
common salt, the same of coarse sugar, and about half as
much of saltpetre; rub it well in, and do so every day.
In a week add another heaped spoonful of salt. If rub-
bed every day, a tongue will be ready in a fortnight;
but if only turned in the pickle daily, it will keep four
or five weeks without being too salt.
When you dry tongues write the date on a parchment
and tie it on. Smoke them, or dry them plain, if you
like best.
When it is to be dressed, boil it extremely tender ;.
allow five hours: and if done sooner, it is easily kept hot.
The longer kept after drying, the higher it will be: if
hard, it may require soaking three or four hours.
Another way.--Clean as above: for two tongues allow
an ounce of saltpetre, and an ounce of sal-prunella ; rub
them well. In two days after well rubbing, cover them
with common salt, turn them every day for three weeks ;
then dry them, and rub over them bran, and smoke them.
ló ten days they will be fit to eat. Keep in a cool dry
place.
To stew Tongue.
Salt a tongue with saltpetre and common salt for a
week, turning it every day. Boil it tender enough to
peel : when done, stew it in a moderately strong gravy ;
season with soy, mushroom ketchup, Cayenne, pounded
cloves, and salt if necessary.
Serve with truffles, morels, and mushrooms. In both
this receipt and the next, the roots must be taken off the
tongues before salting, but some fat left.
An excellent way of doing Tongues to eat cold.
Season with common salt and saltpetre, brown sugar,
a little bay-salt, pepper, cloves, mace, and allspice, in
fine powder for a fortnight ; then take away the pickle,
put the tongue into a small pan, and lay some butter on
it; cover it with brown crust, and bake slowly till so
tender that a straw would go through it.
The thin part of tongues, when hung up to dry, grates
like hung beef, and also makes a fine addition to the
favour of omlets.


MEATS.
67
Beef-heart.
Wash it carefully ; stuff as a hare; and serve with
rich gravy, and currant-jelly sauce.
Hash with the same, and port wine.
Stewed Ox-cheek, plain.
Soak and cleanse a fine cheek the day before it is to be
eaten; put it into a stew-pot that will cover close, with
three quarts of water; simmer it after it has first boiled
up and been well skimmed. In two hours put plenty of
carrots, leeks, two or three turnips, a bunch of sweet
herbs, some whole pepper, and four ounces of allspice.
Skim it often ; when the meat is tender take it out; let
the soup get cold, take off the cake of fat, and serve the
soup separate or with the meat.
It should be a fine brown; which might be done by
burnt sugar; or by frying some onions quite brown with
flour, and simmering them with it. This last way im-
proves the flavour of all soups and gravies of the brown
kind.
If vegetables are not approved of in the soup, they
may be taken out, and a small roll be toasted, or bread
fried and added. Celery is a great addition, and should
always be serred. Where it is not to be got, the seed
of it gives quite as good a flavour, boiled in, and straiu-
ed off.
To dress O.x-cheek another way.
Soak half a head three hours, and clean it with plenty
of water. Take the meat of the bones, and put it into a
pan with a large onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, some
bruised allspice, pepper and salt.
Lay the bones on the top : pour on two or three quarts
of water, and cover the pan close with brown paper, or
a dish that will fit close. Let it stand eight or ten hours
in a slow oven ; or simmer it by the side of the fire, or
on a hot hearth. When done tender, put the meat into
a clean pan, and let it get cold. Take the cake of fat
off, and warm the head in pieces in the soup Put what
vegetables you choose.


68
MEATS.
Marrow-hones.
Cover the top with floured cloth; boil them, and serve
with dry toast.
Tripe
May be served in a tureen, stewed with milk and onion
till tender. Melted butter for sauce.
Or fry it in small bits dipped in batter.
Or stew the thin part, cut into bits, in gravy; thicken
with flour and butter, and add a little ketchup.
Or fricassee it with white sauce.
Soused Tripe.
Boil the tripe, but not quite tender; then put it into
salt and water, which must be changed every day till it
is all used. When you dress the tripe, dip it into batter
of flour and eggs, and fry it of a good brown.
O.x-feet or Cow-heels,
May be dressed in various ways, and are very nutritious
in all,
Coil them, and serve in a napkin; with melted butter,
mustard, and a large spoonful of vinegar.
Or boil them very tender, and serve them as a brown
fricassee: the liquor will do to make jelly sweet or re-
lishing, and likewise to give richness to soups or gravy,
Or cut them into four parts, dip them into an egg ; and
then flour and fry them; and fry onions, (if you like them)
to serve round. Sauce as above.
Or bake them as for mock-turtle.
VEAL.
To keep Veal.
The first part that turns bad of a leg of veal, is where
the udder is skewered back. The skewer should be
taken out, and both that and the meat under it wiped
every day, by which means it will keep good three or
four days in hot weather. Take care to cut out the pipe
that runs along the chine of a loin of veal, as you do
of beef, to hinder it from tainting. The skirt of the
breast of veal is likewise to be taken off ; and the inside
of the breast wiped and scraped, and sprinkled with a
little salt.


MEATS.
69
Leg of Veal.
Let the fillet be cut large or small, as best suits the
number of your company. Take out the bone, fill the
space with fine stuffing, and let it be skewered quite
round ; and send the large side uppermost. When
half roasted, if not before, put a paper over the fat;
and take care to allow a sufficient time, and put it a
good distance from the fire, as the meat is very solid ;
serve with melted butter poured over it. You may pot
some of it.
Knuckle of Veal.
As few people are fond of boiled veal, it may be well
to leave the knuckle small, and take off some cutlets
or collops before it be dressed ; and as the knuckle will
keep longer than the fillet, it is best not to cut off the
slices till wanted. Break the bone to make it take less
room; wash it well ; and put it into a saucepan with
three onions, a blade or two of mace, and a few pepper
corns ; cover it with water, and simmer it till quite
ready. In the mean time some macaroni should be
boiled with it if approved, or rice, or a little rice flour,
to give it a small degree of thickness: but do not put
too much. Before it is served, add half a pint of milk
and cream, and let it come up either with or without
the meat.
Or fry the knuckle with sliced onions and butter to a
good brown; and have ready peas, lettuce, onion, and
a cucumber or two, stewed in a small quantity of water,
an hour ; then add these to the real ; and stew it till
the meat is tender enough to eat, but not overdone.
Throw in pepper, salt, and a bit of shred mint, and
serve all together.
Shoulder of Veal.
Cut off the knuckle, for a stew or gravy. Roast the
other part for stuffing; you may lard it. Serve with
melted butter.
The blade-bone, with a good deal of meat left on,
eats extremely well with mushroom or oyster-sauce, or
mushroom-ketchup in butter.


MEATS.
sauce.
Neck of Veal.
Cut off the scrag to boil, and cover it with onion-
It should be boiled in milk and water. Parsley
and butter may be served with it, instead of onion-
sauce.
Or it may be stewed with whole rice, small onions,
and pepper-corns, with a very little water.
Or boiled and eaten with bacon and greens.
The best end may be either roasted, broiled as
steaks, or made into pies.
Neck of Veal a-la-braise.
Lard the best end with bacon rolled in parsley chop-
ped fine, salt, pepper, and nutmeg : put it into a tosser,
and cover it with water. Put to it the scrag-end, a
little lean bacon or ham, an onion, two carrots, two
heads of celery, and about a glass of madeira wine.
Stew it quick two hours, or till it is tender, but not too
much. Strain off the liquor: mix a little flour and but-
ter in a stew-pan till brown, and lay the veal in this,
the upper side to the bottom of the pan. Let it be over
the fire till it gets coloured; then lay it into the dish, stir
some of the liquor in and boil it up, skim it nicely, and
squeeze orange or lemon-juice into it.
Breast of Veal.
Before roasted, if large, the two ends may be taken
off and fried to stew, or the whole may be roasted.
Butter should be poured over it;
If any be left, cut the pieces into handsome sizes,
put them into a stew-pan, and pour some broth over it;
or if you have no broth, a little water will do; add a
bunch of herbs, a blade or two of mace, some pepper,
and an anchovy ; stew till the meat is tender, thicken
with butter and flour, and add a little ketchup; or the
whole breast may be stewed, after cutting off the two
onds.
Serve the sweetbread whole upon it, which may
either be stewed, or parboiled, and then covered with
crumbs, herbs, pepper, and salt, and browned in a
Dutch oven.


MLATS.
191
Boiled breast of veal, smothered with onion-sauce, is
an excellent dish, if not old or too fat.
To roll a Breat of Veal.
Bone it, take off the the thick skin and gristle, and beat
the meat with a rolling-pin. Season it with herbs chop-
ped very fine, mixed with salt, pepper, and mace. Lay
some thick slices of fine ham; or roll it into two or three
calves' tongues of a fine red, boiled first an hour or two,
and skinned. Bind it up tight in a cloth, and tape it.
Set it over the fire to simmer, in a small quantity of
water, till it is quite tender; this will take some hours.
Lay it on the dresser, with a board and weight on it till
quite cold.
Pigs' or calves' feet boiled and taken from the bones,
may be put in or round it. The different colours laid in
layers look well when cut; and you may put in yolks of
eggs boiled, beet-root, grated ham, and chopped parsley
in different parts.
Another way.
When it is cold, take off the tape, and pour over it the
liquor ; which must be boiled up twice a week, or it will
not keep
Chump of Veal a-la-daube.
Cut off the chump end of the loin; take out the edge-
bone ; stuff the hollow with good forcemeat, tie it up
tight, and lay in a stew-pan with the bone you take out,
a little faggot of herbs, an anchovy, two blades of mace,
a few white peppers, and a pint of good real-broth.
Cover the veal with slices of fat bacon, and lay a sheet of
white paper over it. Cover the pan close, simmer it
for two hours, then take out the bacon, and glaze the
real.--Serve it on mushrooms, or with sorrel-sauce, or
what else you please.
Veal-rolls of either cold Meat or fresh.
Cut thin slices ; and spread on them a fine seasoning
of a very few crumbs, a little chopped bacon or scrap-
ed ham, and a little suet, parsley, and shallot (or in-
stead of the parsley and shallot, some fresh mushrooras


MEATS.
stewed and minced,) pepper, salt, and a small piece of
pounded mace.
This stuffing may either fill up the roll like a sausage;
or be rolled with the meat. In either case tie it up
very tight, and stew very slowly in a' gravy and a glass
of sherry.
Serve it when tender, after skimming it nicely.
Tarrico of Veal.
Take the best end of a small neck; cut the bones short,
but leave it whole; then put it into a stew-pan just
covered with brown gravy; and when it is nearly done,
have ready a pint of boiled peas, six cucumbers pared
and sliced, and two cabbage-lettuces cut into quarters,
all stewed in a little good broth : put them to the veal,
and let them simmer ten minutes. When the veal is in
the dish, pour the sauce and vegetables over it, and lay
the lettuce with the forcemeat balls round it.
A Dunelm of cold Veal or Fowl.
Stew a few small mushrooms in their own liquor and
a bit of butter, a quarter of an hour; mince them very
small, and add them (with their liquor) to minced veal,
with also a little pepper and salt, some cream, and a bit
of butter rubbed in less than half a tea-spoonful of flour.
Simmer three or four minutes, and serve on thin sippets
of bread.
Minced Veal.
Cut cold veal as fine as possible, but do not chop it.
Put to it a very little lemon-peel shred, two grates of
nutmeg, some salt, and four or five spoonfuls of either a
little weak broth, milk; or water; simmer these gently
with the meat, but take care not to let it boil; and add
a bit of butter rubbed in flour. Put sippets of thin
toasted read, cut into a three cornered shape, round
the dish.
To pot Veal.
Cold fillet makes the finest potted veal ; or you may
do it as follows:
Season a large slice of the fillet before it is dressed,


MEATS.
23
1
with some mace, pepper corns, and two or three cloves,
lay it close into a potting-pan that will but just hold it;
fill it up with water, and bake it three hours; then
pound it quite small in a mortar, and add salt to taste ;
put a little gravy that was baked to it in pounding, if
to be eaten soon, otherwise, only a little batter just
melted. When done, cover it over with butter,
To pot Veal or Chicken with Ham.
Pound some cold veal or white of chichen, seasoned
as directed in the last article, and put layers of it with
layers of ham pounded or rather shred; press each
down, and cover with butter.
Cutlets Maintenon.
Cut slices about three quarters of an inch thick, beat
them with a rolling-pin, and wet them on both sides
with egg; dip them into a seasoning of bread-crumbs,
parsley, thyme, knotted marjoram, pepper, salt, and
a little nutmeg grated; then put them into papers fold-
ed over, and broil them, and have in a boat melted
butter, with a little mushroom ketchup.
Cutlets another way.
Prepare as above, and fry them; lay them into a dish,
and keep them hot, dredge a little flour, and put a bit
of butter into the pan; brown it, then pour a little
boiling water into it, and boil quick: season with pep-
per, salt, and ketchup, and pour over them.
Other way.-Prepare as before, and dress the cut-
let in a Dutch oven ; pour over them melted butter and
mushrooms.
Or, pepper, salt, and broil them, especially neck
steaks. They are excellent with herbs.
Veal Collops.
Cut long thin collops; beat them well, and lay on
them a bit of thin bacon of the same size, and spread
forcemeat on that, seasoned high, and also a little
garlic and Cayanne. Roll them up tight, about the
size of two fingers, but no more than two or three inches


74
MEATS.
long; put a very small skewer to fasten each firmly; rub
egg over: fry them of a fine brown, and pour a rich
brown gravy over.
To dress Collops quick.
Cut them as thin as paper with a very sharp knife,
and in small bits. Throw the skin and any odd bits of
the veal, into a little water, with a dust of pepper and
salt; set them on the fire while you beat the collops :
and dip them into a seasoning of herbs, bread, pepper,
salt, and a scrape of nutmeg, but first wet them in egg.
Then put a bit of butter into a frying-pan, and give the
collops, a very quick fry; for as they are so thin, two
minutes will do them on both sides ; put them into a
hot dish before the fire; then strain and thicken the
gravy, give it a boil in the frying-pan, and pour it over
the collops. A little ketchup is an improvement.
Another way.--Fry them in butter, only season with
salt and pepper : then simmer them in gravy, either
white or brown, with bits of bacon served with them.
If white, add lemon-peel and mace, and some cream.
Scallops of cold Veal or Chicken.
Mince the meat extremely small ; and set it over the
ire with a scrap of nutmeg, a little pepper and salt,
and a little tream, for a few minutes ; then put it into
the scallop shells, and fill them with crumbs of bread,
over which put some bits of butter, and brown them
before the fire.
Either veal or chicken looks and eats well, prepared
in this way, and lightly covered with crumbs of bread
fried; or these may be put on in little heaps.
Fricandeau of Veal.
Cut a large piece from the fat side of the leg, about
pine inches long and half as thick and broad; beat it
with the rolling-pin; take off the skin, and trim off the
rough edges. Lard the top and sides ; and cover it
with fat bacon, and then with white paper. Lay it in-
to the stew-pan with any pieces of undressed veal or
mutton, four onions, a carrot sliced, a faggot of sweet


MEATS.
75
herbs, four blades of mace, four bay-leaves, a pint of good
veal or mutton broth, and four or five ounces of lean ham.
orgammon. Cover the pan close, and let it stew slowly
three hours; then take up the meat, remove all the fat
from the gravy, and boil it quick to a glaze. Keep the
fricandeau quite hot, and then glaze it; and serve with
the remainder of the glaze in the dish, and sorrel-sauce
in a sauce tureen.
1
A cheaper, but equally good, Fricandeau of Veal.
With a sharp knife cut the lean part of a large neck
from the best end, scooping it from the bones the length
of your hand, and prepare it the same way as in the last
receipt; three or four bones only will be necessary, and
they will make the gravy; but if the prime part of the
leg is cut off, it spoils the whole.
Fricandeau another way.
Take two large round sweetbreads and prepare them
as you would veal; make a rich gravy with truffles,
morels, mushrooms, and artichoke-bottoms, and serve it
round.
Veal Olives.
Cut long thin collops, beat them, lay on them thin
slices of fat bacon, and over these a layer of forcemeat
seasoned high, with some shred shallot and Cayenne.
Roll them tight, about the size of two fingers, but not
more than two or three inches long, fasten them round
with a small skewer, rub egg over them, and fry them of
a light brown.
Serve with brown grayy, in which boil some mushrooms
piekled or fresh. Garnish with balls fried.
Veal Cake.
Boil six or eight' eggs hard; cut the yolks in two, and
lay some of the pieces in the bottom of the pot : shake
in a little chopped parsley, some slices of veal and ham,
add then eggs again; shaking in after each some chop
ped parsley, with pepper and salt, till the pot is full.
Then put in water enough to cover it, and lay on it
1


76
MEATS.
about an ounce of butter; tie it over with a double pa-
per; and bake it about an hour. Then press it close to
gether with a spoon, and let it stand till cold.
It may be put into a small mould ; and then it will
turn out beautifully for a supper or side dish.
Veal Sausages.
Chop equal quantities of lean and fat bacon, a hand-
ful of sage, a little salt and pepper, and a few anchovies.
Beat all in a mortar; and when used roll and fry it, and
serve if with fried sippets, or on stewed vegetables, or
on white collops.
Scotch Collops.
Cut veal into thin bits about three inches over, and
rather round; beat with a rolling-pin, and grate a little
putmeg over them; dip into the yolk of an egg, and fry
them in a little butter of a fine brown : pour the butter
off: and ready warm to pour upon them half a pint of
gravy, a little bit of butter rubbęd into a little flour, a
yolk of egg, two large spoonfuls of cream, and a bit of
salt. Do not boil the sauce, but stir it till of a fine
thickness to serve with the collops.
To boil Calf's Head..
Clean it very nicely, and soak it in water, till it may
look very white; take out the tongue to salt, and the
brains to make a little dish. Boil the head extremely
tender; then strew it over with crumbs and chopped
parsley, and brown them; or, if liked better, leave one
side plain. Bacon and greens are to be served to eat
with it.
The brains must be boiled; and then mixed with mel-
ted butter, scalded sage chopped ; pepper, and salt.
If any of the head is left; it may be hashed next day,
and a few slices of bacon just warmed and put round.
Cold calf's head eats well if grilled.
To hash Calf's Head.
When half boiled cut off the meat in slices, half an
inch thick, and two or three inches long : brown some
butter, flour, and sliced oniort, and throw in the slices


MEATS,
77
with some good gravy, truffles, and morels; give it one
boil, and skim it well, and set it in a moderate heat to
simmer till very tender.
Season with pepper, salt and Cayenne, at first; and
ten minutes before serving, throw in some shred parsley,
and a very small bit of taragon and knotted-marjoram
eut as fine as possible ; just before you serve, add the
squeeze of a lemon. Forcemeat-balls, and bitts of bacon
rolled round.
Another way.-Boil the head almost enough, and take
the meat of the best side neatly off the bone with a sharp
knife ; lay this into a small dish; wash it over with the
yolks of two eggs, and cover it with crumbs, a few herbs
nicely shred, a little pepper and salt, and a grate of nut-
meg, all mixed together first. Set the dish before the
fire: and keep turning it now and then, that all parts
of the head may be equally brown. In the mean time
slice the remainder of the head and the tongue, but first
peel the tongue; put a pint of good gravy into a pan,
with an onion, a small bunch of herbs (consisting of
parsley, basil, savoury, taragon, knotted marjoram, and
a little thyme,) a little salt and Cayenne, a shallot, a
glass of sherry, and a little oyster-liquor. Boil this for
a few minutes, and strain it upon the meat, which should
be dredged with some four. Add some mushrooms
either fresh or pickled, a few truffles and morels, and
two spoonfuls of ketchup; then beat up half the brains,
and put this to the rest with a bit of butter and flour.
Simmer the whole.
Beat the other part of the brains with shred-lemon.
peel, a little putmeg, and mace, some parsley shred, and
an egg. Then fry it in little cakes of a beautiful yellow-
brown. Dip some oysters into the yolk of an egg, and do
the same; and also some relishing forcemeat-balls made
as for mock turtle. Garnish with these, and small bits
of bacon just made hot before the fire.
Calf's Head Fricasseed.
Clean and half boil a head ; cat the meat into small
bits, and put it into a tosser, with a little gravy made of


78.
MEATS.
1
the bones, some of the water it was boiled in, a Buneb
of sweet herbs, an onion and a blade of mace. If you have
any young cockrels in the house, use the coxcombs ; but
first boil them tender, and blanch them ; or a sweet-
bread will do as good." Season the gravy with a little
pepper, nutmeg, and salt, rub down some flour and but-
ter, and give all a boil together ; then take out the herbs.
and onion, and add a little cup of cream, but do not boil
it in.
Serve with small bits of bacon rolled round, and balls,
To collar Calf's Head.
Scald the skin off a fine head, clean it nicely, and take
out the brains. Boil it tender enough to remove the
bones : then have ready a good quantity of chopped pars-
ley, mace, nutmeg, salt, and white pepper, mixed well;
season it high with these ; lay the parsley in a thick
Jayer, then a quantity of thick slices of fine ham, or a
beautiful-coloured tongue skinned, and then the yolks
of six nice yellow eggs stuck here and there about. Roll
the head quite close, and tie it up as tight as you can.
Boil it, and then lay a weight on it.
A cloth must be put under the tape, as for the other
collars.
Mock Turtle.
Bespeak a calf's head with the skin on, cut it in half,
and clean it well; then half-boil it, take all the meat offf
in square bits, brake the bones of the head, and boil them
in some veal and beef broth, to add to the richness. Fry
some shallot in butter, and dredge in flour enough to
thicken the gravy ; stir this into the browning, and give
it one or two boils : skim it carefully, and then put in the
head; put in also a pint of Madeira wine, and simmer
till the meat is quite tender. About ten minutes before
you serve, put in some basil, taragon, chives, parsley,
Cayenne pepper, and salt, to your taste ; also two spoona
fuls of mushroom-ketchup, and one of soy.
Squeeze the juice of a lemon into the tureen, and pori
the soup upon it. Forcemeat-balls and small eggs.


86
NEATS.
An excellent and very cheap mock turtle may be
made of two or three cow-heels baked with two pounds
and a half of gravy-beef, herbs, &c. as above with cow-
heels and veal.
Calf's Liver.
Slice it, season with pepper and salt, and broil nicelys
rub a bit of cold butter on it, and serve hot and hot.
Calf's Liver roasted.
Wash and wipe it ; then cut a long hole in it, and stuff
it with crumbs of bread, chopped anchovy, herbs, a good
deal of fat bacon, onion, salt, pepper, a bit of butter, and
an egg; sew the liver up ; then lard it, or wrap it in a
veal-cawl, and roast it.
Serve with good brown gravy, and current-jelly.
To dress the Liver and Lights.
Half-boil an equal quantity of each, then cut them in
á middling-sized mince, put to it a spoonful or two of the
water that boiled it, a bit of butter, flour, salt, and pep-
per, simmer ten minutes and serve hot.
Sweetbreads.
Half-boil them, and stew them in a white gravy, add
cream, flour, butter, nutmeg, salt, and white pepper.
Or do them in white sauce seasoned.
Or parboil them, and then cover them with crumbs,
herbs, and seasoning; and brown them in a Dutch oven.
Serve with butter, and mushroom ketchup, or gravy.
Sweetbreads roasted.
Parboil two large ones : when cold lard them with
bacon, and roast them in a Dutch oven. For sauce, plain
butter and mushroom ketchup.
Sweetbread Ragoul.
Cut them about the size of a walnut, wash and dry
them, then fry them of a fine brown; pour to them a good
gravy, seasoned with salt, pepper, allspice, and either
mushrooms or mushroom ketchup; strain, and thicken
with butter and a littler flour..


MEATS.
1
81
Kidney.
Chop veal-kidney, and some of the fat ; likewise a lit-
tle leek or onion, pepper, and salt ; roll it up with an
egg into balls, and fry them.
Calf's heart stuff and roast as beef's heart : or sliced,
make it into a pudding, as directed for steak or kidney
pudding.
PORK, ETC.
Bacon hogs and porkers are differently cut up.
Hogs are kept to a large size; the chine, (or back-
bone,) is cut down on each side, the whole length, and
is a prime part either boiled or roasted.
The sides of the hog are made into bacon, and the in-
side is cut out with very little meat to the bone. On
each side there is a large spare-rib ; which is usually
divided into two, one sweet-bone, and a blade-bone.
The bacon is the whole outside : and contains a fore-leg
and a ham ; which last is the hind-leg, but if left with the
bacon it is called a gammon. There are also griskins.
Hog's larů is the inner fat of the bacon-hog.
Pickled pork is made of the flesh of the hog, as well as
bacon.
Porkers are not so old as hog; their flesh is whiter and
less rich, but it is not so tender. It is divided into four
quarters. The fore-quarter has the spring or fore-legt
the fore-loin or neck, the spare-rib and griskin. The
hind has the leg and the loin.
The feet of pork make various good dishes, and should
be cut off before the legs are cured. Observe the same
of the ears.
The bacon-hog is sometimes scalded to take off the
hair, and sometimes singed. The porker is always
scalded.
To roast a leg of Pork.
Choose a small leg of fine young pork : cut a slit in the
knuckle with a sharp knife ; and fill the space with sage
and onion chopped, and a little pepper and salt. When
half-done, score the skin in slices, but do not cut deeper
than the outer rind.
Apple-gauce and potatoes should be served to eat
with it.


32
MEATS.
To boil a leg of Pork.'
Salt it eight or ten days: when it is to be dressed, weigh
it; let it lie half an hour in cold water, to make it white :
allow a quarter of an hour for every pound, and half an
hour over, from the time it boils up; skim it as soon as
it boils, and frequently after. Allow water enough.-
Save some of it to make peas-soup. Some boil it in a
very nice cloth, floured; which gives a very delicate
look. It should be small and of a fine grain.
Serve peas-pudding and turnips with it,
Loin and Neck of Pork.
Roast them. Cut the skin of the loin across, at dis-
tances of half an inch, with a sharp pen-knife.
Shoulders and Breasts of Pork.
Put them into pickle, or salt the shoulder as a leg:
when very nice, they may be roasted.
Rolled Neck of Pork.
Bone it; put a forcemeat of chopped sagè, a very few
crums of bread, salt, pepper, and two or three berries
of allspice, over the inside ; then roll the meat as tight
as you can, and roast it slowly, and at a good distance
at first.
Spring or Forehand of Pork.
Cut out the bone: sprinkle salt, pepper, and sage,
dried, over the ipside ; but first warm a little butter to
baste it, and then four it; roll the pork tight, and tie
it; then roast by a hanging jack. About two hours will
do it.
Spare-Rib
Should be basted with a very little butter and a little
flour, and then sprinkled with dried sage crumbledon
Apple-sauce and potatoes for roasted pork.
Pork Griskin,
Is usually very hard ; the best way to prevent this is, to
put it into as much cold water as will cover it, and let
it boil up; then instantly take it off, and put it into a
Dutch oven; a very few minutes will do it. Remember
to rub butter over it, and then flour it; before you put
it to the fire.


MEATS.
83
Blade-bone of Pork,
is taken from the bacon-hog; the less meat left on it,
in moderation, the better. It is to be broiled; and
when just done, pepper and salt it. Put to it a piece
of butter, and a tea-spoonful of mustard ; and serve it
covered, quickly. This is a Somersetshire dish.
To dress Pork as Lamb.
Kill a young pig of four of five months old; cut up
the fore-quarter for roasting as you do lamb, and truss
the shank close. The other parts will make delicate
pickled pork or steaks, pies, &c.
Pork-steaks.
Cut them from a loin or neck, and of middling
thickness : pepper and broil them, turning them often ;
when nearly done, put on salt, rub a bit of butter over,
and serve the moment they are taken off the fire, a few
at a time.
To pickle Pork.
The quantities proportioned to the middlings of a
pretty large hog, the hams and shoulders being cut off.
Mix, and pound fine, four ounces of saltpetre, a
pound of coarse sugar, an ounce of sal-prunel, and a
little common salt: sprinkle the pork with salt, and
drain it twenty-four hours; then rub with the above;
pack the pieces tight in a small deep tub, filling up
the spaces with common salt. Place large pebbles on
the pork, to prevent it from swimming in the pickle
which the salt will produce. If kept from air, it will
continue very fine for two years.
Sausages.
Chop fat and lean pork together; season it with
sage, pepper and salt, and you may add two or three
berries of allspice ; half fill hog's guts that have been
soaked and made extremely clean: or the meat may be
kept in a very small pan closely covered : and so roll-
ed and dusted with a very little flour before it is fried.
Serve on stewed red cabbage; or mash potatoes put in
a form, brown with salamander, and garniska with the


84
MEATS.
above; they must be pricked with a fork before they
are dressed, or they will burst.
An excellent Sausage to eat cold.
Season fat and lean pork with some salt, saltpetre,
black pepper, and allspice, all in fine powder, and rub
into the meat; the sixth day cut it small, and mix with
it'some shred shallot or garlic, as fine as possible.
Haye ready an ox-gut that has been scoured, salted,
and soaked well, and fill it with the above stuffing; tie
up the ends, and hang it to smoke as you would hams
but first wrap it in a fold or two of old muslin. It
must be high-dried. Some eat it without boiling, but
others like it boiled first. . The skin should be tied in
different places, so as to make each link about eight
or nine inches long.
Sausages.
Chop a pound and a half of pork, and the same of
veal, cleared of skin and sinews; add three quarters of
a pound of beef-suet; mince and mix them: steep the
crumb of a penny-loaf in water, and mix it with the
meat, with also à little dried sage, pepper and salt.
To scald a sucking Pige
The moment the pig is killed, put it into cold water
for a few minutes; then rub it over with a little resin
beaten extremely small, and put it into a pail of scald-
ing water half a minute; take it out, lay it on a table,
and pull off the hair as quickly as possible; if any part
does not come off, put it in again. When quite clean,
wash it well with warm water, and then in two or three
cold waters, that no flavour of the resin may remain.
Take off all the feet at the first joint; make a slit down
the belly, and take out the entrails ; put the liver, heart,
and lights, to the feet Wash the pig well in cold wa-
ter, dry it thoroughly, and fold it in a wet cloth to
keep it from the air.
To roast a sucking Pig.
If you can get it when just killed, this is of great ad-
vantage. Let it be scalded, which the dealers usually
do; then put some sage, crumbs of bread, salt, and


MEATS.
85
pepper, into the belly, and sew it up. Observe to
skewêr the legs back, or the under part will not crisp.
Lay it to a brisk fire till thorougly dry; then bave
ready some butter in a dry cloth, and rub the pig with
At in every part. Dredge as much flour over as will
possibly lie, and do pot touch it again till ready to
serve; then scrape off the flour very carefully with a
blunt knife, rub it well with the buttered cloth, and
take off the head while at the fire ; take out the brains,
and mix them with the gravy that comes from the pig
Then take it up, and without withdrawing the spit,
cut it down the back and belly, lay it into the dish, and
chop the sage and bread quickly, as fine as you can,
and mix them with a large quantity of fine melted but-
ter that has very little flour. Put the sauce into the
dish after the pig has been split down the back, and
garnished with the ears and the two jaws ; take off the
upper part of the head down to the snout.
Pettitoes.
Boil them, the liver, and the heart, in a small quan-
tity of water, very gently; then ct the meat fine, and
simmerit with a little of the water and the feet split,
671 the feet are quite tender; thicken with a bit of but-
ter, a little flour, a spoonful of cream, and a little salt
and pepper: give it a boil up, pour it over a few sip-
pets of bread, and put the feet on the mince.
To make excellent meat of a Hog's Head.
Split the head, take out the brains, cut off the ears,
and sprinkle it with common salt for a day; then drain
it: salt it well with common salt and saltpetre three
days, then lay the salt and head into a small quantity
of water for two days. Wash it, and boil it till all the
bones will come out; remove them, and 'chop the
head as quick as possible: but first skin the tongue,
and take the skin carefully off the head, to put under
and over. Season with pepper, salt, and a little mace
er allspice berries. Put the skin into a small pan, press
the cut bead in, and put the other skin over: préss


86,
MEATS.
it down. When cold, it will turn out, and make a kind
of brawn. If too fat, you may put a few bits of lean
pork to be prepared the same way. Add salt and
vinegar, and boil these with some of the liquor for a
pickle to keep it.
To roast a porker's Head.
Choose a fine young head, clean it well, and put
bread and sage as for pig; sew it up tight, and on a
string or hanging jack roast it as a pig, and serve with
the same sauce.
To prepare Pig's Cheek for boiling-
Cut off the snout, and clean the head; divide it, and
take out the eyes and the brains ; sprinkle the head
with salt, and let is drain twenty-four hours. Salt it
with common salt and saltpetre: let it lie eight or ten
days if to be dressed, without stewing with peas, but
less if to be dressed with peas: and it must be washed
first and then simmered till all is tender.
To collar Pig's Head.
Scour the head and ears nicely ; take off the hair
and snout, and take out the eyes and the brain ; lay it
into water one night, then drain, salt it extremely
well with common salt and saltpetre, and let it lie five
days. Boil it enough to take out the bones; then lay
it on a dresser, turning the thick end of one side of
the head towards the thin end of the other, to make
the roll of equal size ; sprinkle it well with salt and
white pepper, and roll it with the ears; and if you ap-
prove put the pig's feet round the outside when boned,
or the thin parts of two cow-heels. Put it into a cloth,
bind with a broad tape, and boil it till quite tender;
then put a good weight upon it, and do not take off
the covering till cold.
If you choose it to be more like brawn, salt it long
er, and let the proportion of saltpetre be greater, and
put in also some pieces of lean pork; and then cover
it with cow-heel to look like the horn.
This may be kept either in or out of pickle of salt


MEATS.
87
and water boiled, with vinegar; and is a very conve-
nient thing to have in the house.
If likely to spoil, slice and fry it either with or with-
out batter.
To dry Hog's Cheeks. -
Cut out the snout, remove the brains, and split tha
head, taking off the upper bone to make the chawl a
good shape; rub it well with salt; next day take away
the brine, and salt it again the following day; cover
the head with half an ounce of saltpetre, two ounces
of bay-salt, a little common salt, and four ounces of
coarse sugar. Let the head be often turned ; after ten
days, smoke it for a week like bacon.
To force Hog's Ears.
Parboil two pair of ears, or take some that have been
soused: make a forcemeat of an anchovy, some sage,
parsley, a quarter of a pound of suet chopped, bread-
crumbs, pepper, and only a little salt. Mix all these
with the yolks of two eggs; raise the skin of the up-
per side of the ears, and stuff them with the above.
Fry the ears in fresh butter, of a fine colour; then
pour away the fat, and drain them: make ready half a
pint of rich gravy, with a glass of fine sherry, three
tea-spoonfuls of made mustard, a little bit of four and
butter, a small onion whole, and a little pepper or
Cayenne. Put this with the ears into a stew-pan, and
cover it close; stew it gently for half an hour, shak-
ing the pan often. When done enough, take out the
onion, place the ears carefully in a dish, and pour the
sauce over them. If a larger dish is wanted, the meat
from two feet may be added to the above.
Different ways of dressing Pig's feet and Ears.
Clean carefully, and soak some hours, and boil them
tender: then take them out; boil some vinegar and a
little salt with some of the water, and when cold put
it over them. When they are to be dressed, dry them,
cut the feet in two, and slice the ears ; fry, and servo
with butter, mustard, and vinegar. They may be eie
ther done, in batter, or only foured.


88
MEATS
eream.
Pig's Feet and Ears Fricasseed.
Put no vinegar into the pickle, if to be dressed witra
Cut the feet and ears into neat bits, and boil
them in a little milk; then pour that from them, and
simmer in a little veal-broth, with a bit of onion, maçe,
and lemon-peel. Before you serve, add a little cream,
flour, butter, and salt.
Jelly of Pig's Feet and Ears
Clean and prepare as in the last article, then boil
them in a very small quantity of water, till every bone
can be taken out; throw in half an handful of chopped
sage, the same of parsley, and a seasoning of pepper,
salt, and mace in fine powder; simmer till the herbs
are scalded, then pour the whole in a melon form.
Pig's Harslet.
Wash and dry some liver, sweetbreads, and fat and
lean bits of pork, beating the latter with a rolling-pin
to make it tender: season with pepper, salt, sage, and
a little onion shred fine; when mixed, put all into a
cawl, and fasten it up tight with a needle and thread.
Roast it on a hanging jack, or by a string.
Or serve in slices with parsley for a fry,
Serve with a sauce of port-wine and water, and mus.
tard, just boiled up, and put into a dish.
Mock Brawn.
Boil a pair of neat's feet very tender: take the meat
off, and have ready the belly-piece of pork, salted with
common salt and saltpetre for a week. Boil this almost
enough: take out the bones, and roll the feet and the
pork together. Then roll it very tight with a strong
cloth and coarse tape. Boil it till very tender, then
hang it up in the cloth till cold, after which keep it in
a sousing liquor, as is directed in the next article.
Souse for Brawn, and for Pigs' Feet and Ears.
Boil a quarter of a peck of wheat-bran, a sprig of
bay, and a sprig of rosemary, in two gallons of water,
with four ounces of salt in it, for half an hour. Strain
it, and let it get cold.


MEATS,
89
To make Black Puddings.
The blood must be stirred with salt till cold. Put
a quart of it, or rather more, to a quart of whole grits,
to soak one night, and soak the crumb of a quartern
loaf in rather more than two quarts of new milk made
hot. In the mean time prepare the guts by washing,
turning and scraping with salt and water, and chang-
ing the water several times. Chop fine a little winter-
savoury and thyme, a good quantity of penny-royal,
pepper, and salt, a few cloves, some allspice, ginger,
and nutmeg, mix these with three pounds of beef-suet,
and six eggs well beaten and strained : 'and then beat
bread, grits, &c. all up with the seasoning ; when well
mixed, have ready some hog's fat cut into large bits,
and as you fill the skins, put it in at proper distances,
Tie in links only half filled ; and boil in a large kettle,
pricking them as they swell, or they will burst. When
boiled, lay them between clean cloths till cold, and
hang them up in the kitchen. When to be used, scald
them a few minutes in water, wipe, and put them into
a Dutch oven.
If there are not skins enough, put the stuffing into
basins, and boil it covered with four cloths; and slice
and fry it when used.
Another way.-Soak at night a quart of bruised grits
in as much boiling-hot milk as will swell them and
leave half a pint of liquid. Chop a good quantity of
penny-royal, some savoury and thyme; salt, pepper,
and allspice finely powdered. Mix the above with a
quart of the blood, prepared as before directed; then
half fill the skins, after they have been cleaned tho-
roughly, and put as much of the leaf, (that is the in-
waru fat,) of the pig as will make it pretty rich. Boil
as before directed. A small quantity of leeks finely
shred, and well mixed, is a great improvement.
Another way. Boil a quart of half-grits in as much
milk as will swell them to the utmost : then drain them
and add a quart of blood, a pint of rich cream, a pound
of suet, some mace, nutmeg, allspice, and four cloves,
all in one powder; two pounds of the hog's leaf cut
H. 2


90
MEATS.
into dice, two leeks, a handful of parsley, ter leaves
of sage, a large handful of penny-royal, a sprig of
thyme and knotted marjoram, all minced fine; eight
eggs well beaten, half a pound of bread crumbs that
have been scalded, with a pint of milk, pepper, and
sait. Half fill the skins; which must be cleaned with
the greatest care, turned several times, and soaked in
several waters, and last in rose water. Tie the skins
in links, boil and prick them with a clean fork, to pre.
vent their bursting Cover them with a clean cloth
till cold.
White Hog's Puddings.
When the skins have been soaked and cleaned as
before directed, rinse and soak them all night in rose-
water, and put into them the following filling; mix
half a pound of blanched almonds cut into seven or
eight bits, with a pound of grated bread, two pounds
of marrow or suet, a pound of currants, some beaten
cinnamon, cloves, mace, and nutmeg, a quart of cream,
the yolks of six and whites of two eggs, a little orange-
flower water, a little fine Lisbon sugar, and some lem-
mon-peel and citron sliced, and half fill the skins. To
know whether sweet enough, warm a little in a pan-
ikin. In boiling, much care must be taken to prevent
the puddings from bursting. Prick them with a small
fork as they rise, and boil them in milk and water.
Lay them in a table-cloth till cold.
Hog's Lard
Should be carefully melted in a jar, put into a kettle of
water and boiled; run it into bladders that have been
extremely well cleaned. The smaller they are the bet-
ter the lard keeps, as, after the air reaches it, it be.
comes rank. Put in a sprig of rosemary when melting.
This being a most useful article for frying fish, it
should be prepared with care. Mixed with butter, it
makes a fine crust.
To cure Hams.
Hang them a day or two; then sprinkle them with a
little salt, and drair "hem another day; pound an ounce
1
1


MEATS.
and a half of saltpetre, the same quantity of bay-salt,
half an ounce of sal-prunel, and a pound of the coars-
est sugar. Mix these well; and rub them into each
ham every day for four days, and turn it. If a small one,
turn it every day for three weeks : if a large one, a
week longer ; but do not rub after four days. Before
you dry it, drain the cover with bran, Smoke it ten
days.
Another way.--Choose the leg of a hog that is fat and
well-fed ; hang it as above ; if large, put to it a pound
of bay-salt, four ounces of saltpetre, a pound of the
coarsest sugar, and a handful of common salt, all in fine
powder, and rub it thoroughly. Lay the rind down-
wards, and cover the fleshy parts with the salt. Baste
it as often as you can with the pickle ; the more the
better. Keep it four weeks, turning it every day.--
Drain it and throw bran over it; then hang it in a chim-
Dey where wood is burnt, and turn it sometimes for ten
days.
Another way.--Hang the ham, and sprinkle it with
salt as above ; then rub it every day with the following,
in fine powder: half a pound of common salt, the same
quantity of bay-salt, two ounces of saltpetre, and two
ounces of black pepper, mixed with a pound and a half
of treacle. Turn it twice a day in the pickle, for three
weeks. Lay it into a pail of water for one night, wipe
it quite dry, and smoke it two or three weeks.
Another way, that gives a high flavour. When the
weather will permit, hang the ham three days; mix an
ounce of saltpetre with a quarter of a pound of baya
salt, the same quantity of common salt, and also of coarse
sugar, and a quart of strong beer, boil them together,
and pour them immediately upon the hạm; turn it
twice a day in the pickle for three weeks. An ounce
of black pepper; and the same quantity of allspice,
in fine powder, added to the above, will give still more
flavour. Cover it with bran when wiped ; and smoke
it from three to four weeks, as you approve ; the latter
will make it harder, and give it more of the flavour
of Westphalia. Sew hams in hessings, (that is, coarse


92
MEATS.
wrappers,) if to be smoaked where there is a strong
fire.
A method of giving a still higher flavour. Sprinkle
the ham with salt, after it has hung two or three days :
let it drain; make a pickle of a quart of strong beer,
half a pound of treacle, an ounce of coriander-seeds,
two ounces of juniper berries, an ouuce of pepper, the
same quantity of allspice, an ounce of saltpetre, half
an ounce of sal-prunel, a hand full of common salt, and
a head of shallot, all pounded or cut fine. Boil these
altogether a few minutes, and pour them over the ham;
this quantity is for one of ten pounds. Rub and turn
it every day for a fortnight ; then sew it up in a thir
linen bag, and smoke it three weeks. Take care to
drain it from the pickle, and rub it in bran, before
drying
To make a pickle that will keep for years, for hams,
Tongues, or Beef, if boiled and skimmed between each
parcel of them.
To two gallons of spring-water put two pounds of
coarse sugar, two pounds of bay, and two pounds and a
half of common salt, and half a pound of saltpetre, in a
deep earthen glazed pan that will hold four gallons, and
with a cover that will fit close. Keep the beef or hams
as long as they will bear, before you put them into the
pickle ; and sprinkle them with coarse sugar in a pan,
from which they must drain. Rub the hams, &e, well
with the pickle, and pack them in close ; putting as much
as the pan will hold, so that the pickle may cover them.
The pickle is not to be boiled at first. A small ham may
lie fourteen days, a large one three weeks; a tongue
twelve days, and beef in proportion to its size. They
will eat well out of the pickle without drying. When
they are to be dried, let each piece be drained over
the pan : and when it will drop no longer, take a clean
sponge and dry it thoroughly. Six or eight hours will
smoke them, and there should be only a little sawdust
and wet straw burnt to do this ; but if put into a baker's
chimney, sew them in coarse cloth, and hang them a
week,


MEATS.
93
ty of
To dress Hams.
If long hong, put the ham into water a night, and let
it lię either in a hole dug in the earth, or on damp
stones spriukled with water, two or three days, to
mellow; covering it with a heavy tub, to keep vermin
from it. Wash well, and put it into a boilet with plen-
water:, let it simmer four, five or six hours, ac-
cording to the size. When done enough, if before the
time of serving, cover it with a clean cloth doubled,
and keep the dish hot over boiling water. Take off
the skin, and strėw raspings over the ham. Garnish
with carrot. Preserve the skin as whole as possible,
to keep over the ham when cold, which will prevent its
drying
Excellent Bacon.
Divide the hog, and take the chine out; it is common
to remove the spare-ribs, but the bacon will be preserved
better from being rusty if they are left in, Salt the
bacon six days, then drain it from the first pickle; mix
as much salt as you may judge proper with eight ounces
of bay-salt, three ounces of saltpetre, and a pound of
coarse sagar to each hog, but first cut off the hams. Rub
the salts well in, and turn it every day for a month.
Drain and smoke it a few days; or dry without, by
hanging in the kitchen, not near the fire.
The manner of curing Bacon.
Sprinkle each fitch with salt, and let the blood drain
off for twenty-four hours; then mix a pound and a half
of coarse sugar, the same quantity of bay-salt, not
quite so much as half a pound of saltpetre, and a pound
of common salt, and rub this well on the bacon, turn-
ing every day for a month; then hang it to dry, and af.
terwards smoke it. ten days. This quantity of salt, is
sufficient for the whole bog:
MUTTON
Observations or cutting and dressing Mutton.
Take away the pipe that runs along the bone of the
inside of a chine of mutton; and if to be kept a great


94
MEATS.
time, rub the part close round the tail with salt, after
first cutting out the kernel.
The kernel in the fat on the thick part of the leg
should be taken out by the butcher, for it taints first
there. The chine and rib-bones should be wiped every
day, and the bloody part of the neck cut off, to pre-
serve it. The brisket changes first in the breast, and
if it is to be kept, it is best to rub it with a little salt,
should the weather be hot.
Every kernel should be taken out of all sorts of meat
as soon as brought in : then wipe dry.
For roasting, it should hang as long as it will keep,
the hind quarter especially but not so long as to taint;
for whatever fashion may authorise, putrid juices ought
not to be taken into the stomach.
Mutton for boiling will not look of a good colour if
it has hung long.
Great care should be taken to preserve by paper the
fat of what is roasted.
Leg of Mutton.
If roasted, serye with onion or currant-jelly sauce, if
boiled, with caper-sauce and vegetables.
Neck of Mutton
is particularly useful, as so many dishes may be made
of it ; but it is not advantageous for the family. The
bones should be cut short, which the butchers will not
do unless particularly desired.
The best end of the neck may be boiled, and served
with turnips, or roasted, or dressed in steaks, in pies,
or harico.
The scrags may be stewed in broth; or with a small
quantity of water, some small onions, a few pepper.
corns, and a little rice, and served together.
When a neck is to be boiled to look particularly
nice, saw down the chine-bone, strip the ribs half-way
down, and chop off the ends of the bones about four
inches. The skin should not be taken off till boiled,
and then the fat will look the whiter,
When there is more fat to the neck or loin of muta


NEATS.
96
ton than is agreeable to eat with the lean, it makes
an uncommonly good suet-pudding, or crust for a
meat-pie, if cut very fine.
Shoulder of Mutton roasted.
Serve with onion-sauce. The blade-bone may be
broiled.
To dress Haunch of Mutton.
Keep it as long as it can be preserved sweet by the
different modes, let it be washed with warm milk and
water, or vinegar, if necessary; but when to be dress-
ed, observe to wash it well, lest the outside should
have a bad flavour from keeping. Put a paste of coarse
four or strong paper, and fold the haunch in ; set it a
great distance from the fire, and allow a proportion-
able time for the paste; do not take it off till about
thirty-five or forty minutes before serving, and then
baste it continually. Bring the haunch nearer to the
fire before you take off the paste, and froth it up as
you would venison.
A gravy must be made of a pound and a half of loin
of old mutton, simmered in a pint of water to half,
and no seasoning but salt; brown it with a little burnt
sugar, and send it up in the dish; but there should be
a good deal of grávy in the meat, for though long at
the fire, the distance and covering will prevent its
roasting out.
Serve with currant-jelly sauce.
To roast a Saddle of Mutton.
Let it be well kept first. Raise the skin, and then
skewer it on agaia; take it off a quarter of an hour
before serving, sprinkle it with some salt, baste it,
and dredge it well with flour. The romp should be
plit, and skewered back on each side.
The joint may
be large or small according to the company; it is the
most elegant if the latter. Being broad, it requires
a high and strong fire.
Fillet of Mutton braised.
Take off the chump end of the loin, butter some
paper, and put over it and then paste as for venison ;


94
MEATS.
time, rub the part close round the tail with salt, after
first cutting out the kernel.
The kernel in the fat on the thick part of the leg
should be taken out by the butcher, for it taints first
there. The chine and rib-bones should be wiped every
day, and the bloody part of the neck cut off, to pre-
serve it. The brisket changes first in the breast, and
if it is to be kept, it is best to rub it with a little salt,
should the weather be hot.
Every kernel should be taken out of all sorts of meat
as soon as brought in : then wipe dry.
For roasting, it should hang as long as it will keep,
the hind quarter especially but not so long as to taint;
for whatever fashion may authorise, putrid juices ought
not to be taken into the stomach.
Mutton for boiling will not look of a good colour if
it has hung long.
Great care should be taken to preserve by paper the
fat of what is roasted.
Leg of Mutton.
If roasted, serve with onion or currant-jelly sauce, if
boiled, with caper-sauce and vegetables.
Neck of Mutton
is particularly useful, as so many dishes may be made
of it ; but it is not advantageous for the family. The
bones should be cut short, which the butchers will not
do unless particularly desired.
The best end of the neck may be boiled, and served
with turnips, or roasted, or dressed in steaks, in pies,
or harico.
The scrags may be stewed in broth; or with a small
quantity of water, some small onions, a few pepper.
corns, and a little rice, and served together.
When a neck is to be boiled to look particularly
nice, saw down the chine-bone, strip the ribs half-way
down, and chop off the ends of the bones about four
inches. The skin should not be taken off till boiled,
and then the fat will look the whiter,
When there is more fat to the neck or loin of muta


NEATS.
95
ton than is agreeable to eat with the lean, it makes
an uncommonly good suet-pudding, or crust for a
meat-pie, if cut very fine.
Shoulder of Mutton roasted.
Serve with onion-sauce. The blade-bone may be
broiled.
To dress Haunch of Mutton.
Keep it as long as it can be preserved sweet by the
different modes, let it be washed with warm milk and
water, or vinegar, if necessary; but when to be dress-
ed, observe to wash it well, lest the outside should
have a bad flavour from keeping. Put a paste of coarse
four or strong paper, and fold the haunch in ; set it a
great distance from the fire, and allow a proportion-
able time for the paste; do not take it off till about
thirty-five or forty minutes before serving, and then
baste it continually. Bring the haunch nearer to the
fire before you take off the paste, and froth it up as
you would venison.
A gravy must be made of a pound and a half of loin
of old mutton, simmered in a pint of water to half,
and no seasoning but salt; brown it with a little burnt
sugar, and send it up in the dish; but there should be
a good deal of gravy in the meat, for though long at
the fire, the distance and covering will prevent its
roasting out.
Serve with currant-jelly sauce.
To roast a Saddle of Mutton.
Let it be well kept first. Raise the skin, and then
skewer it on again; take it off a quarter of an hour
before serving, sprinkle it with some salt, baste it,
and dredge it well with flour. The romp should be
split, and skewered back on each side. The joint may
be large or small according to the company; it is the
most elegant if the latter. Being broad, it requires
a high and strong fire.
Fillet of Mutton braised.
Take off the chump end of the loin, butter some
paper, and put over it and then paste as for venison ;


96
MEATS.
roast it two hours. Do not let it be the least brown.
Have ready some French beans boiled, and drainedo
con
a sieve, and while the mutton is glazing, give them
one heat-up in gravy, and lay them on the dish witha
the meat over them.
Harrico.
Take off some of the fat, and cut the middle or best
end of the neck into rather thin steaks, four and fry
them in their own fat of a fine light brown, but not
enough for eating. Then put them into a dish while
you fry the carrots, turnips, and onions, the carrots
and turnips in dice, the onions sliced, but they must
only be warmed, not browned, or you need not fry
them. Then lay the steaks at the bottom of a stew
pan, the vegetables over them, and pour as much boil.
ing water as will cover them, give one boil, skim well,
and then set the pan on the side of the fire to simmer
gently till tender. In three or four hours skim them,
and add pepper, salt, and a spoonful of ketchup.
To hash Mutton.
Cut thin slices of dressed mutton, fat and lean ; flour
them, have ready a little onion boiled in two or three
spoonfuls of water, add to it a little gravy, and the meat
seasoned, and make it hot, but not to boil. Serve in a
covered dish. Instead of onion, a clove, a spoonful of
currant jelly, and half a glass of port-wine, will give an
agreeable flavour of venison, if the meat be fine.
Pickled cucumber, or walnut, cut small, warm in it
for change.
To boil a Shoulder of Mutton with Oysters.
Hang it some days, then salt it well for two days,
bone it, and sprinkle it'with pepper, and a bit of mace
pounded ; lay some oysters over it, and roll the meat
up tight and tie it. Stew it in a small quantity of wa-
ter, with an onion and a few pepper-corns, 'till quite
tender.
Have ready a little good gravy, and some oysters
stewed in it, thicken this with four and butter, and


MEATS.
97
pour over the mutton wherr the tape is taken off. The
stew-pan should be kept close covered.
Breast of Mutton.
Cut off the guperfluous fat, and roast and serve the
meat with stewed cucumbers; or to eat cold, covered
with chopped parsley. Or half broil, and then grill it
before the fire; in which case cover it with crumbs and
herbs, and serve with caper-sauce. Or if boned, take
off a good deal of the fat, and cover it with bread,
herbs, and seasoning, then roll and boil, and serve
with chopped walnuts, or capers and butter.
Loin of Mutton
Roasted; if cut lengthways as a saddle, some think
it cuts better. Or for steaks, pies, or broth.
To roll Loin of Mutton.
Hang the mutton till tender; bone it; and lay a sea-
soning of pepper, allspice, mace, nutmeg, and a few
cloves, all in fine powder, over it. Next day prepare
a stuffing as for hare; beat the meat, and cover it with
the stuffing ; roll it up tight, and tie it. Half-bake it
in a slow oven ; let it grow cold; take off the fat, and
put the gravy into a stew-pan; flour the meat, and put
it in likewise, stew it till almost ready; and add a
glass of port wine, some ketchup, an anchovy, and a
little lemon pickle, half an hour before serving ; serve
it in the gravy, and with jelly sauce. A few fresh
mushrooms are a great improvement; but if to eat like
hare, do not use these, nor the lemon pickle.
Mutton Ham.
Choose a fine-grained leg of wether mutton, of twelve
or fourteen pounds weight; let it be cut ham-shape,
and hang two days. Then put into a stew-pan half a
pound of bay-salt, the same of common salt, two oun-
ces of saltpetre, and half a pound of coarse sugar, all
in powder; mix, and make it quite hot ; then rub it well
into the ham. Let it be turned in the liquor every
day; at the end of four days put two ounces more of
1


98
MEATS.
common salt; in twelve days take it out, dry it and
hang it up in wood smoke a week. It is to be used
in slices, with stewed cabbage, mashed potatoes, or
eggs.
Mutton Collops.
Take a loin of mutton that has been well hung; and
cut from the part next the leg, some collops very thin.
Take out the sinews. Season the collops with salt,
pepper, and mace; and strew over them shred parsley,
thyme, and two or three shallots; fry them in butter
till half done ; add half a pint of gravy, a little juice
of lemon, and a piece of butter rubbed in four; and sim.
mer the whole very gently five minutes. They should
be served immediately, or they will be hard.
Mutton Cutlets in the Portuguese way.
Cut the chops; and half fry them with sliced shallot
or onion, chopped parsley, and two bay leaves; season
with pepper and salt ; then lay a forcemeat on a piece
of white paper, put the chop on it, and twist the paper
up, leaving a hole for the end of the bones to go
through. Broil on a gentle fire. Serve with sauce
Robart; or, as the seasoning makes the cutlets high, a
little gravy.
Mutton Steaks
Should be cut from a loin or neck that has hung; if a
Deck, the bones should not be long. They should be
broiled on a clear fire, seasoned when half-done, and
often turned; take them up into a very hot dish, rub a
bit of butter on each, and serve hot and hot the mo-
went they are done,
Steaks of Mutton, or Lamb, and Cucumbers.
Quarter cucumbers, and lay them into a deep dish,
sprinkle them with salt, and pour vinegar over them.
Fry the chops of a fine brown, and put them into a
stew-pan; drain the cucumbers, and put over the
steaks; add some sliced onions, pepper and salt; pour
hot water er weak broth on them; stew and skim well.


MEATS
99
Mutton Steaks Maintenon.
Half fry, stew them while hot, with herbs, crumbs,
and seasoning ; put them in paper immediately, and
finish on the gridiron. Be careful the paper does not
catch; rub a bit of butter on it first to prevent that.
Mutton Sausages.
Take a pound of the rawest part of the leg of mut.
ton that has been either roasted or boiled ; chop it ex-
tremely small, and season it with pepper, salt, mace,
and nutmeg; add to it six ounces of beef-suet, soms
sweet herbs, two anchovies, and a pint of oysters ; all
chopped very small; a quarter of a pound of grated
bread, some of the anchovy liquor, and the yolks and
"whites of two eggs well beaten. Put it all, when well
mixed, into a little pot, and use it by rolling it into
balls of a sausage-shape and frying. If approved, a
little shallot may be added, or garlic, which is a great
improvement.
To dress Mutton Rumps and Kidneys.
Stew six rumps in some good mutton-gravy half an
hour; then take them up, and let them stand to cool.
Clear the gravy from the fat; and put into it four oun-
ces of boiled rice, an onion stuck with cloves, and a
blade of mace; boil them till the rice is thick. Wash
the rumps with yolks of eggs well beaten; and strew
over them crumbs of bread, a little pepper and salt,
chopped parsley and thyme, and grated lemon-peel.
Fry in butter of a fine brown. While the rumps are
stewing, larų the kidneys, and put them to roast in a
Dutch oven. When the rumps are fried, the grease
must be drained before they are put on the dish, and
the pan being cleared likewise from the fat, warm the
rice in it. Lay the latter on the dish; the rumps put
round on the rice, the narrow ends towards the middle,
and the kidneys between. Garnish with hard eggs cut
in half, the white being left on; or with different co-
loured pickles.
542368A


100
MEATS.
An excellent Hotch-potch.
Stew peas, lettuce, and onions, in a very little wa.
ter with a beef or ham-bone. While these are doing,
fry some mutton or lamb stakes seasoned, of a nice
brown; three quarters of an hour before dinner, put the
steaks into a stew-pan, and the vegetables over them;
stew them, and serve all together in a tureen,
Another.-Knuckle of veal, and scrag, of mutton,
stewed with vegetables as above; to both add a bit of
butter rolled in flour.
Mutton kebobbed.
Take all the fat out of a loin of mutton, and that on
the outside also if too fat, and remove the skin. Joint it
at every bone ; mix a small nutmeg grated with a lit,
tle salt and pepper, crumbs, and herbs ; dip the steaks
into the yolks of three eggs, and sprinkle the above
mixture all over them. Then place the steaks toge-
ther as they were before they were cut asunder, tie
them and fasten them on a small spit. Roast them
at a quick fire ; set a dish under, and baste them with
a good piece of butter and the liquor that comes from
the meat; but throw some more of the above seasoning
When done enough, take it up, and lay it in a
dish; and put into it two spoonfuls of ketchup, and
rub down a tea-spoonful of flour with it; give this ą,
boil, and pour it over the mutton, but first skim off the
fat well. Mind to keep the meat hot till the gravy is
quite ready.
China Chilo.
Mince a pint-bason of undressed neck of mutton, or
leg, and some of the fat : put two onions, a lettuce, a
pint of green peas, a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful
of pepper, four spoonfuls of water, and two or three
ounces of clarified butter, into a stew-pan closely cov-
ered : simmer two hours, and serve in the middle of a
dish of boiled dry rice, If Cayenne is approved, add
a little,
over,


102
MEATS.
You may
the least bit of flour, shake the steaks in this liquor,
stir it, and let it get quite hot. Just before you take it
up, put in a few white mushrooms. This is a good
substitute when poultry is very dear.
House-lamb Steaks, brown.
Season them with pepper, salt, nutmeg, grated lemon,
peel, and chopped parsley; but dip them first into egg i
fry them quick, Thicken some good gravy with a bit
of flour and butter; and add to it a spoonful of port
wine, and some oysters : boil it up, and then put in the
steaks warm; let them heat up and serve.
add palates, balls, or eggs,
if
you
like.
Lamb Cutlets with Spinach.
Cut the steaks from the loin, and fry them; the spi.
nach is to be stewed and put into the dish first, and,
then the cutlets round it.
Lamb's Head and Hinge.
This part is best from a house-lamb: but any, if
soaked in cold water, will be white. Boil the head se.
parately till very tender. Have ready the liver and
lights three parts boiled and cut small : stew them in a
little of the water in which they were boiled, season
and thicken with flour and butter, and serve the mince
round the head.
Lamb's Fry.
Serve it fried of a beautiful colour, and with a good
deal of dried or fried parsley over.
Lamb's Sweetbreads.
(Blanch them, and put them a little while into cold
water. Then put them into a stew-pan, with a ladle.
ful of broth, some pepper and salt, a small bunch of
small onions, and a blade of mace : stir in it a bit of but-
ter and flour, and stew half an hour. Have ready two
or three eggs well beaten in cream, with a little minc-
ed parsley and a few grates of nutmeg. Put in some
boiled asparagus-tops to the other things. Do not let
it boil after the cream is in ; but make it hot, and stir
it well all the while. Take great care it does not cur-


MEATS.
103
de. Young Freneh beans or peas may be added, first
boiled of a beautiful colour.
Fricasseed Lamb-stones.
Skin and wash, then dry and flour them; fry of a
beautiful brown in hog's lard. Lay them on a sieve
before the fire till you have made the following sauce:
Thicken almost half a pint of veal-gravy with a bit of
flour and butter, and then add to it a slice of lemon, a
large spoonful of mushroom-ketchup, a tea-spoonful of
lemon-pickle, a grate of nutmeg, and the yolk of an
egg beaten well in two large spoonfuls of thick cream.
Put this over the fire, and stir it well till it is hot, and
looks white; but do not let it boil, or it will curdle.
Then put in the fry, and shake it about near the fire for
a minute or two. Serve in a very hot dish and cover,
'Fricassee of Lamb-stones and Sweetbreads, another way.
Have ready some lamb-stones blanched, parboiled,
and sliced. Flour two or three sweetbreads; if very
thick, cut them in two. Fry all together, with a few
large oysters, of a fine yellow brown. Pour the but
ter off; and add a pint of good gravy; some asparagus.
tops about an inch long, a little nutmeg, pepper, and
salt, two shallots shred fine, and a glass of white wine,
Simmer ten minutes, then put a little of the gravy to
the yolks of three eggs well beaten, and by degrees
mix the whole. Turn the gravy back into the pan, and
stir it till of a fine thickness without boiling. Garnish
with lemon.
A very nice dish.
Take the best end of the neck of lamb, cut it into
stakes, and chop each bone so short as to make the
stakes almost round. Egg, and strew with crumbsin
herbs, and seasoning: fry them of the finest brown,
mash some potatoes with a little butter and cream, and
put them into the middle of the dish raised high. Then
place the edge of one stake on another with the small
bone upward, all round the potatoes.
Pies of different meats are directed under the gener
rel head of savoury pies,


POULTRY.
105
ed: if properly kept, and not over roasted, the favour is
equal to teal. Serve with a good gravy.
Plovers.-Choose those that feel hard at the vent,
which shows they are fat. In other respects, choose them
by the same marks as other fowl. When stale the feet
are dry. They will keep sweet a long time. There
are three sorts; the grey, green, and bastard plover, or
lapwing.
Rabbit. If the claws are blunt and rugged, the ears
dry and tough, and the haunch thick, it is old; but if the
claws are smooth and sharp, the ears easily tear, and the
cleft in the lip is not much spread, it is young. If fresh
and new ly killed, the body will be stiff, and in hares the
flesh pale. But they keep a good while by proper care ;
and are best when rather beginning to turn, if the inside
is preserved from being musty.
Partridges.-They are in season in autumn, If young,
the bill is of a dark colour, and the legs yellowish; if
fresh, the vent will be firm, but this part will look green-
ish if stale.
Pheasants---The cock-bird is accounted best, except
when the hen is with egg. If young, he has short blunt
or round spurs, but if old, they are long and sharp,
Directions for dressing Poultry and Game.
All poultry should be very carefully picked, every
plug removed, and the hair nicely singed with white
paper.
The cook must be careful in drawing poultry of all
sorts, not to break the gall-bag, for no washing will take
off the bitter where it has touched..
In dressing wild fowl, be careful to keep a clear brisk
fire. Let them be done of a fine yellow-brown, but
leave the gravy in: the fine flavour is lost if done too
much.
Tame fowls require more roasting, and are longer in
heating through than others. All sorts should be con-
tinually basted, that they may be served with a froth
and appear of a fine colour.
A large fowl will take three quarters of an hour ; à


106
POULTRY.
middling one half an hour, and a very small one or å
chicken, twenty minutes. The fire must be very quick
and clear before any fowls are put down.
A capon will
take from ralf an hour to thirty-five minutes, a goose au
hour, wild ducks a quarter of an hour, pheasants twenty
minutes, a sınall turkey stuffed an hour and a quarter,
turkey-poults, twenty minutes, grouse a quarter of an
hour, quails, ten minutes, and partridges from twenty
to twenty-five minutes.
Pigs and geese require a brisk fire, and quick turning.
Rabbits must be well attended to, and the extremities
brought to the quick part of the fire, to be done equally,
with the backs.
POULTRI.
To boil Turkey.
Make a stuffing of bread, herbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg
lemon-peel, a few oysters or an anchovy, a bit of butter,
some suet, and an egg: pat this into the crop, fasten up
the skin, and boil the turkey in a floured cloth to make
it very white. Have ready a fine oyster-sauce made
rich with butter, a little cream, and a spoonful of soy,
if approved, and pour it over the bird ; or liver and lem-
on-sauce. Hen-birds are best for broiling, and should be
young
To toast Turkey.
The sinews of the leg should be drawn,whichever way
it is dressed. The head should be twisted under the
wing: and in drawing it, take care not to tear the liver,
por let the gall touch it.
Put a stuffing of sausage-meat; or if sausages are to be
served in the dish, a bread stuffing. As this makes a
large addition to the size of the bird, observe that the
heat of the fire is constantly to that part; for the breast
is often not done enough. A little strip of paper should
be put on the bone, to hinder it from scorching while the
other parts roast, Baste well and froth it up. Serve
with gravy in the dish, and plenty of bread-sauce in a
Add a few crumbs and a beaten eggs
to the stuffing of sausage-meai.
sauce-tureen.


P1.8.
P.106

Turkey for Roasting
Turkey for Boiling
Chicken or Fowl for Roasting

Duck
Breast
Back








Pl.9.
P. 107
Goose

Woodcock or Snipe
Pigeon
or
Pheasant or Partridge
ed
Rabbit for Roasting
р.
d
SE
t
Rabbit for Boiling


POULTRY.
107
de-
Pulled Turkey,
Divide the meat of the breast by pulling instead of cut.
ting; then warm it in a spoonful or two of white gravy,
and a little cream, grated nutmeg, salt, and a little flour
and butter ; do not boil it. The leg should be seasoned,
scored, and broiled, and put into the dish with the above
round it. Cold chicken does as well.
To boil Fowl.
wand
For boiling, choose those that are not black-leggt is time
Pick them nicely, singe, wash, and truss them. Flo 63
them, and put them into boiling water. See time,
17994
dressing, page 106.
Serve with parsley and butter ; oyster, lemon, liveThe
or celery sauce.
and
If for dinner, ham, tongue, or bacon, is asually serv
ed to eat with them; as likewise greens.
To boil Forol with Rice.
Stew the fowl very slowly in some clear mutton-
broth well skimmed ; and seasoned with onion, mace,
pepper, and salt. About half an hour before it is rea-
dy, put in a quarter of a pint of rice well washed and
soaked. Simmer till tender; then strain it from the
broth, and put the rice on a seive before the fire. Keep
the fowl hot, lay it in the middle of the dish, and the
rice around it without the broth. The broth will be
very nice to eat as such; but the less liquor the fowl
is done with the better. Gravy, or parsley and butter,
for sauce.
Fowls roasted.
Serve with egg -sauce, bread-sauce, or garnished
with sausages or scalded parsley.
A large baru-door fowl, well hung, should be stuf.
fed in the crop with sausage-meat ; and served with
gravy in the dish, and with bread-sauce.
The head should be turned under the wing as a tur-
key.
Fowl broiled.
Split them down the back; pepper, salt, and broil,
Serve with mushreom-sauce.


108
POULTRY.
Another way.-Cut a large fowl into four quartersy
put them on a bird-spit, and tie that on another spit, and
half roast; or half roast the whole fowl, and finish either
on the gridiron, which will make it loss dry than if whollý
broiled. The fowl that is not cut before roasted, must
be split down the back after.
Davenport Fowls.
Hang young fowis a night ; take the livers, hearts, and
**lerest part of the gizzards, shred very small, with
an handful of young clary, an anchovy to each fowl,
on, and the yolks of four eggs boiled hard, with
er, salt, and mace to your taste. Stuff the fowls
chis, and sew up the vents and necks quite close,
the water may not get in. Boil them in salt and
er till almost done: then drain them and put them
sa stewpan with butter enough to brown them. Serve
em with fine melted butter, and a spoonful of ketchup,
either sort, in the dish.
A nice way to dress Fowl for a small Dish.
Bone-singe, and wash a young fowl; make a force.
meat of four ounces of veal, two ounces of scraped lean
of ham, two ounces of fat bacon, two hard yolks of
dygs, a few sweet herbs chopped, two ounces of beef-
suet, a teaspoonful of lemon-peel minced quite fine, an
anchovy, salt, pepper, and a very little Cayenne. Beat
all in a mortar,with a tea-cupful of crumbs, and the yolks
and whites of three eggs. Stuff the inside of the fowl, and
draw the legs and wings inwards; tie the neck and rump
close. Stew the fowl in a white gravy; when it is done
through and tender, add a large cupful of cream, and a
bit of butter and flour: and give it one boil, and serve ;
the last thing add the squeeze of lemon.
To force Fowl, &c.
Is to stuff any part with force-meat, and is put usually
between the skin and flesh.
To braise
Is to put meat into a stew-pan, covered with fat bacon


POULTRY.
109
Then add six or eight onions, a faggot of herbs, carrots if
to be brown, celery, any bones or trimmings of meat
fowls, and some stock (which you will find among Soups
and Gravies.) The bacon must be covered with a pa-
per, and the lid of the pan must he put down close.
Set it on a slow stove; and, according to what it is, it
will require two or three hours. The meat is then to
be taken out; and the gravy very nicel skimmed and
set on to boil very quick till it is thick. The meat is a
be kept hot: and if larded, put into the oven for 3
minutes : and then put the jelly over it, which is Cargo
glazing, and is used for ham, tongue, and many made-
dishes. White wine is added to some glazing. The
glaze should be of a beautiful clear yellow brown, and
it is best to put it on with a nice brush.
Fricassee of. Chickens.
Boil rather more than half, in a small quantity of
water : let them cool, then cut up, and put to simmer
in a little gravy made of the liquor they are boiled in,
and a bit of veal or mutton, onion, mace, and lemon-
peel, some white pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs.
When quite tender, keep them hot while you thicken
the sauce in the following manner: strain it off, and put
it back into the saucepan with a little salt, a scrape of
nutmeg, and a bit of flour and butter; give it one boil ;
and when you are going to serve, beat up the yolk of an
egs, and add half a pint of cream, and stir them over the
fire, but do not let it boil. It will be quite as good with-
out the egg.
The gravy may be made (without any other meat) of
the necks, feet, small wing-bones, gizzards, and livers ;
which are called the trimmings of the fowls.
To pull Chickens.
Take off the skin, and pull the flesh off the bone of a
cold fowl in as large pieces as you can: dredge it with
flour, and fry it of a nice brown in butter. Drain the
butter from it; and then simmer the flesh in a good gravy
well seasoned, and thickened with a little four and but-,
ter. Add the juice of half a lemon.
к


110
POULTRY.
Another way.-Cut off the legs and the whole back
of a dressed chicken ; if underdone the better. Pull
all the white part into little flakes free from skin ; toss
it up with a little cream thickened with a piece of but-
ter, mixed with flour, half a blade of mace in powder,
white pepper, salt, and a squeeze of lemon. Cut off the
heck-end of the chicken, and broil the back and sides-
men in one piece, and the two legs 'seasoned. Put the
hash in the middle, with the back on it, and the two legs
at the end.
Chicken Currie.
Cut
up
the chickens
raw,
slice onions; and fry both
in butter with great care, of a fine light brown, or if you
use chickens that have been dressed, fry only the onions.
Lay the joints, cut into two or three pieces each, into a
stew-pan, with a veal or mutton gravy, and a clove or
two of garlick. Simmer till the chicken is quite tender.
Half an hour before you serve it, rub smooth a spoonful
or two of currie powder, a spoonful of flour, and an
ounce of butter; and add this, with four large spoonfuls
of cream, to the stew. Salt to your taste. When sero-
ing, squeeze in a little lemon.
Slices of under-done veal, or rabbit, turkey, &c. make
excellent currie.
A dish of rice boiled dry must be served. For direc-
tions to do this, see the articè Rice in the Index.
Another more ensily made.-Cut up a chicken or young
rabbit; if chicken, take off the skin. Roll each piece
in a mixture of a large spoonful of flour, and half an
ounce of currie powder. Slice two or three onions, and
fry them in butter of a light brown, then add the meat,
and fry altogether till the meat begins to brown. Put
it all into a stew-pan, and pour boiling water enough
just to cover it. Simmer very gently for two or three
hours. If two thick, put more water half an hour before
gerving
If the meat has been dressed before, a little broth will
be better than water, but the currie is richer when
taade of fresh meat,


POULTRY.
111
To braise Chickens.
Bone them, and fill them with forcemeat. Lay the
bones, and any other poultry trimmings, into a stew,
pan, and the chickens on them. Put to them a few
onions, a faggot of herbs, three blades of mace, a pint
of stock, and a glass or two of sherry. Cover the chick-
ens with slices of bacon, and then white paper; cover
the whole close, and put them on a slow stove for two
hours. Then take them up, strain the braise, and skim
off the fat carefully ; set it on to boil very quick to a
glaze, and do the chickens over with it with a brush.
Serve with a brown fricassee of mushrooms. Before
glazing, put the chicken into an oven for a few minutes,
to give a little colour.
Ducks roasted.
Serve with a fine gravy: and stuff one with sage and
onion, a dessert-spoonful of crumbs, a bit of butter, and
pepper and salt, let the other be unseasoned.
To boil Ducks.
Choose a fine fat duck; salt it two days, then boil it
slowly in a cloth. Serve it with onion-sauce, but me!
the butter with milk instead of water.
To stew Duck,
Half roast a duck; put it into a stew-pan with a pint
of beef-gravy, a few leaves of sage and mint cut small,
pepper and salt, and a small bit of onion shred as fine as
possible. Simmera quarter of an hour, and skim clean;
theri add near a quart of green peas. Cover close, and
simmer near half an hour longer. Put in a piece of
butter and a little flour, and give it one boil ; then serve
in one dish.
To hash Duck.
Cut a cold duck into joints; and warm it, without
boiling, in gravy, and a glass of port wine.
To roast Goose.
After it is picked, the plugs of the feathers pulled out


112
POULTRY.
and the hairs carefully singed, let it be well washed and
dried, and a seasoning put in of onion, sage, and pepper
and salt. Fasten it tight at the neck and the rump, and
then roast. Put it first at a distance from the fire, and
by degrees draw it nearer. A slip of paper should be
skewered on the breast-bone. Baste it very well. When
the breast is rising, take off the paper; and be careful
to serve it before the breast falls, or it will be spoiled by
coming flatted to table. Let a good gravy be sent in
the dish.
Gravy and apple-sauce : goosberry-sauce for a green.
goose.
To stew Giblets.
Do them as will be directed for giblet-pie, (under the
head Pies ;) season them with salt and pepper, and a
very small piece of mace. Before serving, give them
one boil with a cup of cream, and a piece of butter
rubbed in a tea-spoonful of flour.
Pigeons
May be dressed in so many ways, that they are very
useful. The good flavour of them depends very much
on their being cropped and drawn as soon as killed.--
No other bird requires so much washing.
Pigeons left from dioner the day before may be stewed:
or made into a pie, in either case, care must be taken
not to over-do them, which will make them stringy.-
They need only be heated up in gravy made ready ; and
forcemeat balls may be fried and added, instead of put.
ting a stuffing into them. If for a pie, let beef-steaks
be stewed in a little water, and put cold under them,
and cover each pigeon with a piece of fat bacon to keep
them moist.
Season as usual, and put eggs.
To stew Pigeons.
Take care that they are quite fresh, and carefully
chopped, drawn, and washed; then soak them haif an
hour. In the mean time cut a hard white cabbage in.
slices (as if for pickling) into water ; drain it, and then
kaoil it in milk and water ; drain it again, and lay some


POULTRI,
118
of it at the bottom of a stew-pan. Put the pigeons up-
on it, but first season them well with pepper and salt;
aud cover them with the remainder of the cabbage.
Add a little broth, and stew gently till the pigeons are
teuder : then put among them two or three spoonfuls of
cream, and a piece of butter and flour, for thickening:
After a boil or two, serve the birds in the middle, and
the cabbage placed round them.
Another way.--Stew the birds in a good brown gravy;
either stuffed or not, and season with spice and
mushrooms fresh, or a little ketchup.
To broil Pigeons,
After cleaning, split the backs, pepper and salt them,
and broil them very nicely ; pour over them either stewa
ed or pickled mushrooms in melted butter, and serve as
hot as possible.
Roast Pigeons
Should be stuffed with parsley, either cut or whole, and
seasoned within. Serve with parsley and butter. Peas
or asparagus should be dressed to eat with them,
To pickle Pigoons.
Bone them : turn the inside
out and lard it. Season
with a little allspice and salt, in fine powder; then turn
them again and tie the neck and rump with thread.
Put them into boiling water, let them boil a minute or
two to plump, take them out and dry them well, then
put them boiling hot into the pickle, which must be
made of equal quantities of white wine and white-wipe
vinegar, with white-pepper and allspice, slices ginger
and nutmeg, and two or three bay-leaves. When it
bo:ls up, put the pigeons in. If they are small, a quarter
of an hour will do them ; but they will take twenty
minutes if large. Then take them out, wipe them, and
let them cool. When the pickle is cold, take the fat
off from it, and put them in again. Keep them in a
stone jar, tied down with a bladder to keep out the air,
Tästead of larding, put into some a staffing made
K 2


POULTRY.
1
hard yolks of eggs and marrow in dice, season with a
few sweet herbs, pepper, salt, and mace,
Pigeons in Jelly.
Save some of the liquor in which a knuckle of veal
has been boiled, or boil a calf's or neat's foot, put the
broth into a pan with a blade of mace, a bunch of sweet
herbs, some white pepper, lemon-peel, a slice of lean
bacon, and the pigeons. Bake them and let them stand
to be cold. Season them as you like, before baking.
When done, take them out of the liquor, cover them
close to preserve the colour, and clear the jelly by
boiling with the whites of two eggs; then stain it
through a thick cloth dipped in boiling water, and put
into a sieve. The fat must be perfectly removed, be-
fore it be cleared. Put the jelly over and round them
rough.
The same, a beautiful dish.—Pick two very niee pi-
geons, and make them look as well as possible by sing-
ing, washing, and cleaning the heads well. Leave the
heads and the feet on, but the nails must be clipped
close to the claws. Roast them of a very nice brown,
and when done, put a little sprig of myrtle into the bill
of each. Have ready a savoury jelly, as before, and
with it half-fill a bowl of such a size as shall be proper
to turn down on the dish you mean it to be served in,
When the jelly and the birds are cold, see that no grávy
hangs to the birds, and then lay them upside down in the
jelly. Before the rest of it begins to set, pour it over
the birds, so as to be three inches above the feet..?
This should be done full twenty-four hours before
serving
This dish has a very handsome appearance in the
middle range of the second course; or when served with
the jelly roughed large, it makes a side or corner thing,
its size being then less. The head should be kept
up as if alive, by tying the neck with somo thread, and
the legs bent as if the pigeon sat upon them.
To pot Pigeons.
Let them be quite fresh, clean them carefully, and


FOULTRY.
115
season then with salt and pepper; lay them close in a
small deep pan, for the smaller the surface,and the closer
they are packed, the less butter will be wanted. Cover
them with butter, then with very thick paper tied down,
and bake them. When cold, put them dry into pots
that will hold two or three in each ; and pour butter
over them using that which was baked as part. Ob-
serve that the butter should be pretty thick over them,
if they are to be kept. If pigeons were boned, and then
put in an oval form into the pot, they would lie closer,
and require less butter. They may be stuffed with a
fine forcemeat made with veal, bacon, &c. and then they
will eat excellently. If a high flavour is approved of,
add mace, allspice, and a little Cayenne, before baking.
Larks and other small Birds.
Draw and spit them on a bird-spit ; tie this on another
spit, and roast them. Baste gently with butter, and
strew bread-crumbs upon them till half-done: brown
and serve with fried crumbs, round.
GAME, &c.
To keep Game, &c.
Game ought not to be thrown away even when it has
been kept a very loog time; for when it seems to be
spoiled, it may often be made fit for eating, by nicely
cleaning it, and washing with vinegar and water. ir
there is danger of birds not keeping, draw, crop, and
pick them; then wash in two or three waters, and rub
them with salt. Have ready a large saucepan of boil-
ing water, and plunge them into it one by one, drawing
ing them up and down by the legs, that the water may
pass through them. Let them stay five or six minutes
in; then hang them up in a cold place. When drained,
pepper and salt the insides well. Before roasting, wash
them well.
The most delicate birds, even grouse, may be preserv-
ed thus. Those that live by suction cannot be done this


116
POULTRY.
sauce.
way, as they are never drawn; and perhans the heat
might make them worse, as the water could not page
through them, but they bear being high.
Lumps of charcoal put about birds and meat will pre-
serve them from taint, and restore what is spoiling.
Phensants and Partridges.
Roast them as turkey, and serve with a fine gravy
(into which put a very small bit of garlick,) and bread-
When cold, they may be made into excellent
patties, but their flavour should not be overpowered by
lemon. For the manner of trussing a pheasant or part-
ridge, see plate IX.
To pot Partridge.
Clean them nicely ; and season with mace, allspice,
white pepper, and salt, in fine powder. Rub every part
well: then lay the breast downwards in a pan, and pack
the birds as close as you possibly can. Put a good deal
of butter on them ; then cover the pan with a coarse
flour-paste and a paper over, tie it close, and bake.--
When cold, put the birds into pots, and cover them with
butter.
A rery cheap way of potting Birds.
Prepare them as directed in the last receipt; and
when baked and grown cold, cut them into proper
pieces for helping, pack them close into a large pot-
ting-pan, and (if possible,) leave no spaces to receive
the butter. Cover them with butter, and one-third
part less will be wanted than when the birds are done
whole.
The butter that has covered potted things will serve
for basting, or for paste or meat pies.
Po clarify Butter for potted things.
Put it into a sauce-boat, and set that over the fire in
a stew-pan that has a little water in. When melted,
take care not to pour the milky parts over the potted
things they will sink to the bottom.


POULTRY.
11%
To pot Moor Game.
Pick,singe, and wash the birds nicely: then dry them :
aud season, inside and out, pretty high, with pepper,
mace, nutmeg, allspice, and salt. 'Pack them in as small
a pot as will hold them, cover them with butter, and
bake in a very slow oven. When cold take off the but-
ter, dry them from the gravy, and put one bird into
each pot, which should just fit. Add as much more but-
ter as will cover them, but take care that it does not oil.
The best way to melt it is, by warming it in a bason set
in a bowl of hot water.
Grouse.
Roast them like fowls, but the head is to be twisted
under the wing. They must not be over-done. Serve
with a rich gravy in the dish, and bread-sauce. The
sauce for wild fowl, as will be described hereafter un-
der the head of Sauces, may be used instead of common
gravy.
To roast Wild Fowl.
The flavour is best preserved without stuffing. Pat
pepper, salt, and a piece of butter, into each.
Wild fowl require much less dressing than tame: they
should be served of a fine colour, and well frothed up.
A rich brown gravy should be sent in the dish : and when
the breast is cut into slices, before taking off the bone,
a squeeze of lemon, with pepper and salt, is a great im-
provement to the flavour.
To take off the fishy taste which wild fowl sometimes
have, put an onion, salt, and hot water into the dripping-
pan, and baste them for the first ten minutes with this ;
then take away the pan, and baste constantly with
butter.
Wild Ducks, Teal, Widgeon, Dun-birds, &c.
Should be taken up with the gravy in. Baste them with
butter; and sprinkle a little salt before they are taken
up, put a good gravy upon them, and serve with shallot-
sauce, in a boat,


118
POULTRY.
Woodcocks, Snipes, and Qualis,
Keep good several days. Roast them without drawing,
and serve on toast. Butter only should be eaten with
them, as gravy takes off from the fine flavour. The
thigh and back are esteemed the most. For the manner
of trussing a woodcock or snipe, see plate IX.
Ruffs and Reeves
Are skewered as quails; put bars of bacon over them,
and roast them about ten minutes. Serre with a good
gravy in the dish.
To dress Plorers.
Roast the green ones in the same way as woodcocks
and quails, (see above,) without drawing; and serve on
a toast. Gray plovers may be either roasted, or stewed
with gravy, herbs, and spice,
Plovess' Eggs
Are a nice and fashionable dish. Boil them ten minu
tes, and serve either hot or cold on a napkin.
To roast Ortolans.
Pick and singe, but do not draw them. Tie on a
bird-spit, and roast them. Some persons like bacon in
slices tied between them, but the taste of it spoils the
flavour of the ortolan. Cover them with crumbs of
bread.
Guinea and Pea Fowl
Eat much like pheasants. Dress then in the same way,
(See page 116.)
Rabbits
May be eaten various ways, as follow ;
Roasted with stuffing and gravy, or without stuffing;
with sauce of the liver and parsley chopped in melleu
butter, pepper, and salt; or larded. For the manner
of trussing a rabbit for either roasting or boiling, see
plate IX.
Boiled and smothered with onion-sauce : the butter
to be melted with milk instead of water.
Fried in joints, with dried or fried parsley. The
same liver-sauce, this way also.


SOUPS.
119
1
Fricasseed, as before directed, (in page 109,) for
ohickens.
In a pie, as chickens, with forcemeat, &c. In this
way they are excellent when young.
Potted.
To make a Rabbit taste much like Hare.
Choose one that is young, but full-grown; hang it in
the skin three or four days: then skin it; and lay it,
without washing, in a seasoning of black pepper and all-
spice in a very fine powder, a glass of port wine, and the
same quantity of vinegar. Baste it occasionally for
forty hours ; then stuff it, and roast it as a hare, and
with the same sauce. Do not wash off the liquor that
it was soaked in.
To pot Rabbits.
Cut up two or three young but full grown ones, and
take the leg-bones off at the thigh; pack them as closely
as possible in a sınall pan, after seasoning them with
pepper, mace, Cayenne, salty and allspice, all in very
fine powder. Make the top as smooth as you can. Keep
out the heads and the carcassés, bút take off the meat
about the neck. Put a good deal of butter, and bake
the whole gently. Keep it two days in the pan; then
shift it into small pots, adding butter. The livers also
should be added, as they eat well.
To blanch Rabbit, Fowl, &c.
Is to set it on the fire in a small quantity of cold water,
and let it boil : as soon as it boils, it is to be taken out,
and put into cold water for a few minutes.
SOUPS AND GRAVIES.
General directions respecting Soups and Gravies.
When there is any fear of gravy-meat being spoiled
before it be wanted, seasou well, and fry it lightly,


120
SOUPS.
which will preserve it two days longer ; but the gravy
is best when the juices are fresh.
When soups or gravies are to be put by, let them be
changed every day into fresh scalded pans. Whatever
has vegetables boiled in it, is apt to turn sour sooner
than the juices of meat. Never keep any gravy, &c.in
metal.
When fat remains on any soup, a tea-cupful of flour
and water mixed quite smooth, and boiled in, will take
it off.
If richness or greater consistency, be wanted, a good
lump of butter mixed with flour, and boiled in the soup,
will give either of these qualities.
Long boiling is necessary to give the full flavour of
the ingredients, therefore time should be allowed for
soups and gravies; and they are best if made the day
before they are wanted.
Soups and grayies are far better when the meat is put
at the bottom of the pan, and stewed, and the herbs,
roots, &c. with butter, than when water is put to the
meat at first; and the gravy that is drawn from the meat
should be almost dried up before the water is put to it.
Do not use the sediment of gravies, &c. that have stood
to be cold. When onions are strong, boil a turnip with
them, if for sauce: this will make them mild.
If soups or gravies are too weak, do not cover them
in boiling, that the watery particles may evaporate.
A clear jelly of Cow-heels is very useful to keep in
the house, being a great improvement to soups and
gravies.
SOUPS, ETC.
Scotch Mutton Broth.
Soak a neck of mutton in water for an hour ; cut off
the scrag, and put it into a stew-pan with two quarts
of water. As soon as it boils, skim it well, and then
simmer it an hour and a half; then take the best end
of the mutton, cut it into pieces, (two bones in each,)
take some of the fat off, and put as many as you think


SOUPS.
121
proper : skim the moment the fresh meat boils up, and
every quarter of an hour afterwards. Have ready four
or five carrots, the same number of turnips, and three
onions, all cut, but not small; and put them in soon
enough to get quite tender; add four large spoonfuls
of Scotch barley, first wetted with cold water. The
meat should stew three hours. Salt to taste, and serve
all together. Twenty minutes before serving, put in
some chopped parsley: It is an excellent winter dish
Veal Broth.
Stew a small knuckle in about three quarts of water,
two ounces of rice, a little salt, and a blade of mace,
till the liquor is half wasted away.
Colouring for Soups or Gravics.
Put four ounces of lump-sugar, a gill of water, and
half an ounce of the finest butter, into a small tosser,
and set it over a gentle fire. Stir it with a wooden
spoon, till of a bright brown. Then add half a pint of
water; boil, skim, and when cold, bottle and cork it
close. Add to soup or gravy as much of this as will
give a proper colour.
A clear brown Stock for Gravy-Soup, or Gravy.
Put a knucle of veal, a pound of lean beef, and a
pound of the lean of a gammon of bacon, all sliced, into
a stew-pan with two or three scraped carrots, two
onions two turnips, two heads of celery sliced, and
two quarts of water. Stew the meat quite tender, but
do not let it brown. When thus prepared, it will serve
either for soup, or brown or white gravy: if for brown
gravy, put some of the above colouring, and boil a few
minutes.
An excellent Soup.
Take a scrag or knuckle of veal, slices of undressed
gammon of bacon, onions, mace, and a small quantity
of water simmer till very strong; and lower it with a
good beef-broth made the day before, and stewed till.
the meat is done to rags. Add cream, vermicelli, and
almonds, as will be directed in the next receipt, and a
roll
L


122
SOUPS.
!
An excellent white Soup.
Take a scrag of mutton, a knuckle of veal, after
cutting off as much meat as will make collops, two or
three shank-bones of mutton nicely cleaned, and a
quarter of a pound of very fine undressed lean gam-
mon of bacon: with a bunch of sweet herbs, a piece of
fresh lemon-peel, two or three onions, three blades of
mace, and a dessert-spoonful of white pepper ; boil all
1 in three quarts of water, till the meat falls quite to
pieces. Next day take off the fat, clear the jelly from
the sediment, and put it into a saucepan of the nicest
tin. If macaroni is used, it should be added soon
enough to get perfectly tender, after soaking in cold
water. Vermicelli may be added after the thickening,
as it requires less time to do. Have ready the thickening
which is to be made as follows:
Blanch a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, and
beat them to a paste in a marble mortar, with a spoon-
ful of water to prevent their oiling; mince a large slice
of dressed veal or chicken, and beat it with a piece of
stale white bread; to all this add a pint of thick cream,
a bit of fresh lemon-peel, and blade of mace, in the
finest powder. Boil it a few minutes ; add to it a pint
of soup, and strain and pulp it through a coarse sieve:
this thickening is then fit for putting to the rest, which
should boil for half an hour afterwards.
A plainer white Soup.
Two or three pints of soup may be made of a small
knuckle of veal, with seasoning as directed in the last
article; and both served together, with the addition of
a quarter of a pint of good milk. Two spoonfuls of
dream, and a little ground rice, will give it a proper
thickness,
Giblet Soup.
Scald and clean three or four sets of goose or. duck
giblets; sot them to stew, with a pound or two of
gravy-beef, scrag of mutton, or the bone of a knuckle
of veal ; an ox-tail, or some shanks of mutton; with three
onions, a large bunch of sweet herbs, a tea-spoonful of


SOUPS.
125
white pepper, and a large spoonful of salt. Put five
pints of water, and simmer till the gizzards, (which
must be each in four pieces,) are quite tender : skim
nicely, and add a quarter of a pint of cream, two tea-
spoonfuls of mushroom-powder, and an ounce of butter
mixed with a dessert-spoonful of flour. Let it boil a
few minuets, and serve with the giblets. It may be sea-
soned, instead of cream, with two glasses of sherry or
Madeira, a large spoonful of ketchup, and some Cayenne,
When in the tureen, add salt.
Macaroni Soup.
Boil a pound of the best macaroni in a quart of good
stock till quite tender; then take out half, and put it
into another stew-pot. To the remainder add some
more stock, and boil it till you can pulp all the maca-
roni through a fine sieve. Then add together that, the
two liquors, a pint or more of cream, boiling hot, the
macaronia that was first taken out, and half a pound of
grated Parmesan cheese ; make it hot, but do not let it
boil. Serve it with the crust of a French roll cut into
the size of a shilling.
A Pepper-pot, to be served in a Tureen.
To three quarts of water put vegetable according
to the season; in summer peas, lettuce, and spinach;
in winter, carrots, turnips celery: and onions in both
Cut small, and stew with two pounds of veck of mut-
ton, or a fowl, and a pound of pickled pork, in three
quarts of water, till quite tender.
On first boiling, skim. Halt an hour before serving,
add a lobster, or crab, cleared from the bones.
Sea-
son with salt and Cayenne. A small quantity of rice
should be put in with the meat. Some people choose
very small suet dumplings boiled with it. Should any
fat rise, skim nicely, and put half a cup of water with
a little flour.
Pepper-pot may be made of various things, and is
understood to be a due proportion of fish flesh, fowl,
vegetables, and pulse.


124
SOUPS,
Turnip Soup.
Take off a knuckle of veal all the meat that can be
made into cutlets, &c, and set the remainder on to stew
with an onion, a bunch of herbs, a blade of mace, and
five pints of water; cover it close : and let it do on a
slow fire, four or five hours at least. Strain it, and set
by till next day; then take the fat and sediment from
it, and simmer it with turnips cut into small dice till
tender, seasoning it with salt and pepper. Before serv-
ing, rub down half a spoonful of flour with half a pint
of good cream, and the size of a walnut of butter. Let
a small roll simmer in the soup #wet through, and
serve this with it. It skould be as thick as middling
cream.
Old Peas Sorp:
Save the water of boiling pork or beef; and if too salt,
put as much fresh water to it; or use fresh water en-
tirely, with roast beef bones, a ham or gammon-bone,
or an anchovy or two. Simmer these with some good
whole or split peas ; the smaller the quantity of water
at first, the better. Simmer till the peas will pulp
through a culander; tben set the pulp, and more of the
liquor that boiled the peas, with two carrots; a turnip,
a leek, and a stick of celery cut into bits, to stew till
all is quite tender. The last requires less time; an
hour will do for it.
When ready, put fried bread cut into dice, dried
mint rubbed fine, pepper, and (if wanted) salt, into
the turren: will do for it.
Green Peas Soup.
In shelling the peas divide the old from the young;
put the old ones, with an ounce of butter, a pint of wa.
ter, the outside leaves of a lettuce or two, two onions,
pepper and salt, to stew till you can pulp the peas and
when you have done so, put to the liquor that stewed
them some more water, the hearts and tender stalks of
the lettuces, the young peas, a handful of spinach cut
small, and salt, and pepper to relish properly, and stew
till quite-soft. If the soup is too thin, or not rich


SOUPS.
125
enough, either of these faults may be removed by add-
ing an ounce or two of butter, mixed with a spoonful
of rice or wheat-four, and boil with it half an hour.
Before serving, boil some green mint shred fine in the
soup.
When there is plenty of vegetables, no meat is neces-
sary; but if meat be prefered, a pig's foot or ham-bone,
&c. may be boiled with the old peas, which is called the
stock. More butter than is mentioned ahove may be
used with advantage, if the soup is required to be very
rich.
When peas first come in, or are very young, the stock
may be made of the shells washed, and boiled till they
will pulp with the above ; more thickening will then be
wapled.
Grary Soups.
Wash and soak a leg of beef: break the bone and set it
on the fire with a gallon of water, a large bunch of sweet
herbs, two large onions sliced and fried a fine brown,
(but not burnt,) two blades of mace, three cloves, twenty
berries of allspice, and forty black peppers. Stew till
the soup is as rich as you choose ; then take out the
meat, which will be fit for the servants' table with a
little of the gravy. Next day take off the cake of fat ;
which will serve for basting, or for common pie-crust.
Have ready such vegetables as you choose to serve.
Cut carrots, turnips, and celery, small ; and simmer till
tender : sore people do not like them to be sent to
table, only the flavour of them. Boil vermicelli a
quarter of an hour ; and add to it a large spoonful of soy
and one of mushroom-ketchup. A French roll should
be made hot, put into the soup till moist through, and
served in the tureen.
Vegetable Soup.
Pare and slice five or six cucumbers ; and add to these
the inside of as many cos-lettuces, a sprig or two of mint,
two or three onions, some pepper and salt, a pint and a
half of young peas, and a litile parsley, Put these,
with half a pound of fresh butter, into a sauce-pan,
L 2


196
>
SOUPS.
to stew in their own liquor, near a gentle fire, half an
hour; then pour two quarts of boiling water to the veg
etables, and stew them two hours, rub down a little
flour into a tea-cupful of water, boil it with the rest fil-
teen or twenty minutes, and serve it.
Another way.-Peel and slice six large onions, six po-
tatoes, six carrots, and four turnips ; fry them in half a
pound of butter, and pour on them four quarts of boiling
water. Toast a crust of bread as brown and hard as
possible, but do not burn it : put that, some celery, sweet
herbs, white pepper, and salt, to the above ; stew it all
gently four hours, then strain it through a coarse cloth :
have ready sliced carrot, celery, and a little turnip, and
add to your liking : and stew them tender in the soup.
If approved, you may add an anchovy, and a spoonful
of ketchup.
Carrot Soup.
Put some beef-bones, with four quarts of the liquor in
which a leg of mutton or beef has been boiled, two large
onions, a turnips, pepper, and salt, into a sause-pan, and
stew for three hours. Have ready six large carrots sera-
ped and cut thin; strain the soup on them, and stew them
till soft enough to pulp through a hair sieve or coarse
cloth : then boil the pulp with the soup, which is to be as
thick as peas-soup. Use two wooden spoons to rub the
carrots through. Make the soup the day before it is to
be used. Add Cayenne. Pulp only the red part of
the carrot, and not the yellow
Onion Soup.
Into the water that has boiled a leg or neck of mutton,
put carrots, turnips, and (if you have one) a shank-bone
and simmer two hours. Strain it on six onions, first
sliced and fried of a light brown; simmer three hours,
skim it carefully, and serve. Put into it a little roll, or
fried bread.
Spinach Soup.
Shred two handfuls of spinach, a turnip, two onions,
a head of celery, two carrots, and a little thyme and
parsley. Pat all into a stew-pot, with a bit of butter


SOUPS,
127
the size of a walnut, and a pint of broth, or the water
in which meat has been boiled ; stew till the vegetables
are quite tender; work them through a coarse cloth or
sieve with a spoon; then to the pulp of the vegetables,
and liquor, put a quart of fresh weter, pepper, and salt,
and boil all together. Have ready some suet dumplings
the size of a walnut ; and before you put the soup into
the tureen, put them into it. The suet must not be
shred too fine ; and take care that it is quite fresh.
Scoich Leek Soup.
Put the water that has boiled a leg of mutton into a
stew-pot, with a quantity of chopped leeks, and pepper
and salt: simmer them an hour; then mix some oat-
meal with a little cold water quite smooth, pour it into
the soup, set it on a slow part of the fire, and let it sim-
mer gently ; but take care that it does not burn to the
bottom.
Or-Rump Soup.
Two or three rumps of beef will make it stronger than
a much larger quantity of meat without these and form
a very nourishing soup.
Make it like gravy soup, and give it what flavour or
thickening you like.
Hessian Soup and Ragout.
Clean the root of a neat's tongue very nicely, and.
half an ox's head, with salt and water, and soak them
afterwards in water only. Then stew them in five or
six quars of water, till tolerably tender. Let the soup
stand to be cold; take off the fat, which will make goodl*
paste for hot meat-pies, or will do to baste. Put to the
soup a pint of split peas, or a quart of white ones,
twelve carrots, six turnips, six potatoes, six large oni-
ons, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two heads of celery.
Simmer them without the meat, till the vegetables are
done enough to pulp with the peas through a sieve :
and the soup will then be about the thickness of cream.
Season it with pepper, salt, mace, allspice, a clove or
two, and a little Cayenne, all in fine powder. If the


128
SOUPS.
peas are bad, the soup may not be thick enough ; thewe
boil in it a slice of roll, and put it through the colander;
or add a little rice-four, mixing it by degrees..
For the Ragout, cut the nicest part of the hearl, the
kernels, and part of the fat of the root of the tongue,
into small thick pieces. Rub these with some of the
above seasoning, as you put them into a quart of the
liquor, kept out for that purpose before the vegetables
were added ; flour well, and simmer them till nicely
tender. Then put a little mushroom and walnut-ketch-
up, a little soy, a glass of port wiue, and a tea-spoonful
of made mustard ; and boil all up together before served.
If for company, small eggs and forcemeat-balls.
This way furnishes an excellent soup and a ragout at
a small expense, and they are not common. The other
part will warm for the family.
Soup a la sap.
Boil half a pound of grated potatoes, a pound of beef
sliced thin, a pint of gray peas, an onion, and three
munces of rice, in six pints of water, to five; strain it
through a colander: then pulp the peas to it, and tur
it into a saucepan again, with two heads of celery sliced.
Stew it tender, and add pepper and salt; and when you
serve, add also fried bread.
into a very
Portable Soup.
Boil one or two kuuckles of veal, one or two shins
of beef, and three pounds of beef, in as much water only
as will cover them. Take the narrow out of the bones :
put any sort of spice you like, and three large onions.
When the meat is done to rags, strain it off, and put it
cold place. When cold, take off the cake
of fat, (which will make crusts for servants’ pies,) put
the soup into a double-bottomed tin sauce-pan, and set
it on a pretty quick fire, but do not let it burn. It must
boil fast and uncovered, and be stirred constantly, for
eight hours. Put it into a pan, and let it stand in a
cold place a day; then pour it into a round soup china-
dish, and set the dish into a stew-pan of boiling water


SOUPS.
129
on a stove, and let it boil, and be now and then stirred,
till the soup is thick and roapy, then it is done enough.
Pour it into the little round part'at the bottom of cups
or basins turned upside down, to form cakes; and when
cold turn them out on flannel to dry. Keep them in tin
canisters. When they are to be used, melt them in
boiling water; and if you wish the flavour of herbs, or
any thing else, boil it first, strain off the water, and melt
the soup in it.
: This is very convenient in the country, or at sea,
where fresh meat is not always at hand; as by this
means a bason of soup may be made in fifteen minutes.
Soup maigre.
Melt half a pound of butter into a stew pan, shake it
round, and throw in six middling onions sliced. Shake
the pan well for two or three minute s; then put to it
five heads of celery, two handfuls of spinach, two cab-
bage-lettuces cut small, and some parsley. Shake the
pan well for ten minutes ; then put in two quarts of
water, some crusts of bread, a tea-spoonful of beaten
pepper, three or four blades of mace; and if you have
any white beet leaves, add a large handful of them cut
small.
Y
Boil gently an hour. Just before serving, beat in
two yolks of eggs and a large spoonful of vinegar.
Another.-Flour and fry a quart of green peas, four
onions sliced, the coarse stalks of celery, a carrot, a tur-
nip, and a parsnip ; then pour on them three quarts of
water. Let it simmer till the whole will pulp through
a sieve. Then boil it in the best of the celery cut thin.
Stock for brown or white Fish Soups.
Take a pound of skate, four or five flounders, and two
pounds of eels. Clean them well and cut them into
pieces: cover them with water; and season them with
mace, pepper, salt, an onion stuck with cloves, a head
of celery, two parsly-roots sliced, and a bunch of sweet
herbs. Simmer an hour and a half closely covered, and-
then strain it off for use. If for brown soup, first fry


130
SOUPS
the fish brown in butter, and then do: as above. I wty
not keep more than two or thee days.
Eel Soup
Take three pounds of smali eels ; put to them two
quarts of water, a crust of bread, three blades of mace,
sojne whole pepper,an onion and a bunch of sweet herbs :
cover them close, and stew till the fish, is quite broken:
then strain it off. Toast some bread, cut it into dice,
and pour the soup on it boiling. A piece of carrot may
be put in at first. This soup will be as rich as if made
of meat. A quarter of a pint of rich cream, with a
tea-spoonful of four rubbed smooth in it, is a great im.
provement.
Skate Soup.
Make it of the stock fish for soup (as directed in the
last page,) with an ounce of vermicelli boiled in it, a
littie before it is served. Then add half a pint of cream,
beaten with the yolks of two eggs. Stir it near, but
tot on the fire. Serve it with a small French roll
made hot in a Dutch oven, and then soaked in the soup
an hour.
Excellent Lobster Soup.
Take the meat from the claws, bodies, and tails, of
six small lobsters: take away the brown fur, and the
bag in the head : beat the fins, chine, and small claws
in a mortar. Boil it very gently in two quarts of wa-
ter, with the crumb of a French roll, some white pepe
per, salt, two anchovies, a large onion, sweet herbs,
and a bit of lemon-peel, till you have extracated the
goodness of them all. Strain it off. Beat the spawn
in a mortar, with a bit of butter, a quarter of a nutmeg
and a tea-spoonful of flour; mix it with a quart of cream.
Cut the tails into pieces, and give them a boil up with the
cream and soup. Serve with forcemeat balls niade of
the remainder of the lobster, mace, pepper, salt; a few
crumbs, and an egg or two. Let the balls be made up
with a bit of flour, and heated in the soup.


CRAVIES.
131
Craw-fish or Prawn Soup.
Boil six whitings, and a large eel (or the eel and halt
a thornback, well cleaned) with as much water as will
cover them ; skim them clean, and put in whole pepper,
mace, ginger, parsley, an onion, a little thyme, and
three cloves. Boil to a mash. Pick fifty craw-fish, or
a hundred prawns; pound the shells and a little roll;
but first boil them with a little water, vinegar, salt, and
herbs : put this liquor over the shells in a sieve ; then
pour the other soup clear from the sediment. Chop a
lobster, and add this to it, with a quart of good beef.
gravy ; add also the tails of the craw-fish or the prawns,
and some ftour and butter ; and season as may be liked,
if not high enough.
Oyster Soup
Take two quarts of fish stock, as directed in page 129;
Beat the yolks of ten hard eggs, and the hard part of two
quarts of oysters, in a mortar, and add this to the stock.
Simmer it all for half an hour; then strain it off and put
st and the oysters (cleared of the beards, and nicely
washed,) into the soup. Simmer five minutes; have rea-
dy the yolks of six raw eggs well beaten, and add them
to the soup. Stir it all well one way, on the side of the
fire, till it is thick and smooth, but do not let it boil.
Sorve all together.
Oyster Mouth Soup.
Make a rich mutton broth, with two large onions,
three blades of mace, and black pepper. When strain-
ed, pour it on a hundred and fifty oysters, without the
beards, and a bit of butter rolled in flour. Simmer gen
ty a quarter of an hour, and serye.
GRAVIES.
General Directions respecting Gravies.
Gravy may be made quite as good of the skirts of beof,
and the kidney, as of any other meat prepared in the
same way
Anox-kidney, or milt, makes good gravy, cut an to


132
GRAVIES.
pieces, and prepared as other meats, and so will the
shank-end of mutton that has been dressed, if much be
not wanted.
The shank-bones of mutton are a great improvement
to the richness of gravy, but first soak them well, and
scour them clean.
Taragon gives the flavour of French cookery, and
in high gravies is a great improvement; but it should
be added only a short time before serving.
To dress Gravy that will keep a Week.
Cut lean beef thin, put it into a frying-pan without
any butter, and set it on the fire covered, but take care
it does not burn; let it stay till all the gravy that comes
out of the meat is dried up into it again; put as much
water as will cover the meat, and let that stew away.
Then put to the meat a small quantity of water, herbs,
onions, spice, and a bit of lean ham; simmer till it is
rich, and keep it in a cool place. Do not take off the
fat till going to be usei.
Clear Gravy.
Slice beef thin; broil a part of it over a very clear
quick fire, just enough to give colour to the gravy, but
not to dress it ; put that and the raw into a very nicely
tinned stew-pan, with two onions, a clove or two, whole
black peppers, berries of allspice, and a bunch of sweet
herbs ; cover it with hot water, give it one boil, and
skim it well two or three times ; then cover it ; and sim-
mer till quite strong.
Cullis, or brown Gravy.
Lay over the bottom of a stew-pan as much lean real
as will cover it an inch thick ; then corer the veal with
thin slices of undressed gammon, two or three onions,
two or three bay-leaves, some sweet herbs, two blades
of mace, and three cloves. Cover the stew pan, and set
it over a slow fire ; but when the juices come out, let
the fire be a little quicker. When the meat is of a fine
brown, fill the pan with good beef-broth, boil and skim
it, then simmer an hour; add a little water, mixed with


GRAVIES,
133
as much flour as will make it properly thick : boil it
half an hour, and strain it. This will keep a week.
Bechamel, or white Sauce.
Cut lean veal into small slices, and the same quantity
of lean bacon or ham : put them into a stew-pan with
a good piece of butter, an onion, a blade of mace, a
few mushroom-buttons, a bit of thyme, and a bay-leat ;
fry the whole over a very slow fire, but not to brown it,
thicken it with flour; then put an equal quantity of
good broth, and rich cream; let it boil half an hour, and
stir it all the time : strain it through a soup-strainer.
A Gravy without Meat.
Put a glass of small beer, a glass of water, some pep•
per, salt, lemon-peel grated, a bruised clove or two,
and a spoonful of walnut pickle, or mushroom-ketchup,
into a basin. Slice an onion, flour and fry it in a piece
of butter till it is brown. Then turn all the above into
a small tosser with the onion, and simmer it covered
twenty minutes. Strain it off for use, and when cold,
take off the fat.
A rich Gravy.
Cut beef into thin slices, according to the quantity
wanted ; slice onions thin, and flour both; fry them of a
light pale brown, but do not on any account suffer them
to get black; put them into a stew pan, pour boihing
water on the browning in the frying-pan, boil it up, and
pour on the meat.
Put to it a bunch of parsley, thime,
and savoury, a small bit of knotted marjoram, the same
of taragon, some mace, berries of allspice, whole black
peppers, a clove or two, and a bit of ham, or gammon
of bacon. Simmer till you have extracted all the juices
of the meat; and be sure to skim the moment it boils,
and often after. If for a hare, or stewed fish anchovy
should be added.
Gravy for a Fowl when there is no meat to make it of.
Wash the feet nicely, and cut them and the neck
small; simmer them with a little bread browned, a slice
of onion, a bit of parsley and thyme, some pepper and
M


GRAVIES.
salt, and the liver and gizzard, in a quarter of pint of
water till half wasted. Take out the liver, bruise it,
and strain the liquor to it. Then thicken it with flour
and butter, and add a tea-spoonful of mushroom-ketch-
up, and it will be very good.
Veal Gravy.
Make it as directed for Callis (page 132 :) but leave
out the spice, herbs, and flour. It should be drawn
I very slowly; and if for white dishes, do not let the
meat brown.
Gravy to make Mutton eat like Venison.
Pick a very stale wood-cock or snipe, cut it into
pieces (but first take out the bag from the entrails ; and
simmer with as much unseasoned meat-gravy as you
will want. Strain it and serve in the dish.
Strong Fish Gravy
Skin two or three eels, or some flounders; gut and
wash them very clean; cut them into small pieces, and
put into a saucepan. (over them with water, and add
a little crust of bread toasted brown, two blades of
mace, some whole pepper, sweet herbs, a piece of lem-
on-peel, an anchovy or two, and a tea-spoonful of horse
radish. Cover close and simmer, add a bit of butter
and flour, and boil with the above.
Savoury Jelly to pul orer cold Pies.
Make it of a small bare kauckle of leg or shoulder
of veal, or a piece of scrag of that or mutton ; or if the
pie þe of fowl or rabit, the carcasses, necks, and heads,
added to any piece of meat, will be sufficien, observ-
ing to give consistence by cow-heel or shanks of mut-
ton. Put the meat, or a slice of lean ham or bacon, a
faggot of different herbs, two blades of mace, an onion
or two, a small bit of lemon-peel, and a tea-spoonful
of Jamaica pepper bruised, and the same of whole
pepper, and three pints of water, in a stew-pot that
shuts very close. As soon as it boils, skim it well, and
let it simmer very slowly till quite strong; strain it,


SAUCES.
135
and when cold, take off the fat with a 'spoon first, and
then, to remove every particle of grease, lay a clean
piece of cap or blotting paper on it. When cold, if not
clear, boil it a few minutes with the whites of two eggs
(but do not alld the sediment,) and pour it through a
nice sieve, with a napkin in it, which has been dipped.
in boiling water, to prevent waste.
Jelly to cover cold Fish.
Clean a maid, and put it three quarts of water,
with a calf's foot or cow-heel, a stick of borse-radish, an
onion, three blades of mace, some white pepper, a piece
of lemon-peel, and a good slice of lean gammon. Stew
until it will jelly; then strain off; when cold remove
every bit of fat, take it up from the sediment, and boil
it with a glass of sherry, the whites of four or five egos,
and a piece of lemon. Boil without stirring; and after
a few minutes set it by to stand half an hour, and
strain it through a bag or sieve, with a cloth in it.
Cover the fish with it when cold.
SAUCES, &c.
.A very good Sauce, especially to hide the bad colour of
Fowls.
Cut the livers, slices of lemon in dice, scalded parsley,
and hard eggs; add salt and mix them with butter;
boil them up, and pour over the fowls.
This will do for roast rabbit.
White Sauce for fricassee of Fowls, Rabbits, White Meat
Fish, of Vegetables.
It is seldom necessary to buy meat for this favourite
sauce, as the proportion of that flavour is but small.
The water rhat has boiled fowls, veat, or rabbit ; or
a little broth, that may be in the house, or the feet and
Hecks of chickens, or raw or dressed veal, will suffice.
Stew with a little water any of these, with a bit of le-
mon-peel, some sliced onions, some white pepper-corns,


136
SAUCES.
a little pounded mace or nutmeg, and a bunch of sweet
herbs, until the flavour be good, then strain it and add
a little good cream, a piece of butter and a little flour;
salt to your taste. A squeeze of lemon may be added
after the sauce is taken off the fire, shaking it well.
Yolk of egg is often used in fricassee, but if you have any
cream it is better, and the former is apt to curdle.
Sauce for Wild Fowl.
Simmer a tea-cupful of port wine, the same quantity
of good meat gravy, a little shallot, a little pepper, salt,
a grate of nutmeg, and a bit of mace, for ten minutes :
put in a bit of butter, and flour, give it all one boil, and
pour it through the birds. In general they are not stuff-
ed as tame, but may be done so if liked.
Another for the same, or for Ducks.
Serve a rich gravy in the dish: cut the breast into
slices, but do not take them off; cut a lemon, and pat
pepper and salt on it ; then squeeze it on the breast,
and pour a spoonful of gravy over before you help.
In excellent Soup for boiled Turkey.
Rub half a pound of batter with a tea-spoonful of flour,
put it to a little water, melt it, and add near a quarter of
a pint of thick cream, and half an anchovy chopped fine,
not washed ; set it over the fire ; and as it boils up, adu
a large spoonful of real India soy. If that does not give
it a fine color, put a little more. Tarn it into the sauce
tureen, and put some salt and half a lemon: stir it well
to hinder it from curdling.
Sauce for Foul of any sort.
Boil some veal-gravy, peper, salt, the juice of a Se-
qille orange and a lemon, and a quarter as much of port
wine as of gravy; and pour it into the dish, or a boat.
Sauce for cold Fowl, or Partridge.
Rab down in a mortar the yolks of two eggs boiled
hard, an anchovy, two desert-spoonfuls of oil, three
of vinegar, a shallot, Cayenne, if approved, and a tea


1
SAUCES.
137
spoonful of mustard. All should be pounded before the
oil is added. Then strain it. Shallot vinegar, instead
of shallots, eats well.
A very fine Mushroom Sauce for Fowls or Rabbits.
Wash and pick a pint of young mushrooms and rub.
them with salt, to take off the tender skin. Put them
into a saucepan with a little salt, some nutmeg, a blade
of mace, a pint of cream, and a good piece of butter
rubbed in flour. Boil them up, and stir them till done ;
then pour it round the chickens, &c. Garnish with
temon.
If you cannot get fresh mushrooms, use pickled ones.
done white, with a little mushroom powder with the
cream, &c.
Lemon white Sauce for boiling fouls.
Put the peel of a small lemon, cut very thin, into a.
pint of sweet rich cream, with a sprig of lemon-thyme,
and ten white pepper-corns. Simmer gently till it taste
well of the lemon ; then strain it, ard thicken it with a
quarter of a pound of butter, and a dessert-spoonful of
flour rubbed in it. Boil it up; then pour the juice of
the lemon strained into it, stirring it well.. Dish the
chickens, and then mix a little white gravy., quite hot,
with the cream, but do not boil them together : add salt
to
your
taste.
Liver Sauce.
Chop boiled liver of rabbits or fowls, and do it as die
rectod for lemon-sauce, (page 140), with a very little
pepper and salt, and some parsley.
Eggs Sauce.
Boil the eggs hard, and cut them into small pieces;
then put thein to melted butter.
Onion Sauce.
Peel the onions, and boil them tender : squeeze the
water from them, then chop them, and add to them but-
ter that has been melted rich and smooth, as will be
hereafter directed, but with a little good milk instead
M 2


SAUCES.
139
add a tea-spoonful of made mustard, a spoonful of
vinegar, and the juice of half a lemmon; boil it all, and
pour it round the steaks. They should be of a fine
yellow brown, and garnished with fried parsley and
lemon.
Benton Sauce, for hot or cold Roast Beef.
Grate, or scrape very fine, some horse-radish, a lit-
tle made mustard, some pounded white sugar, and four
large spoonfuls of vinegar. Serve in a saucer.
Sauce for Fish Pies, where Cream is not ordered.
Take equal quantities of white wine (not sweet),
vinegar, oyster-liquors, mushroom-ketchup; boil them
up with an anchovy; strain ; and pour it through a
funnel into the pie after it is baked.
Another.-Chop an anchovy small, and boil it up with
three spoonfuls of gravy, a quarter of a pint of cream,
add a bit of butter and flour,
Tomato Sauce, for hot or cold Meats.
Put tomatas, when perfectly ripe, into an earthen
jar; and set it in an oven, when the bread is drawn, till
they are quite soft; then separate the skin from the
pulp; and mix this with capsicum-vinegar, and a few
cloves of garlic pounded, which must both be propor-
tioned to the quantity of fruit. Add powdered ginger
and salt to your taste. Some white-wine vinegar and
Cayenne may be used instead of capsicum vinegar. Keep
the mixture in small wide mouthed botlles, well corked,
and in a dry cool place.
Apple Sauce, for Goose or roast Pork.
Pare, core, and slice, some apples; and put them in
a stone jar; into'a saucepan of water, or on a hot
hearth, If on a hearth, let a spoonful or two of water
be put in, to hinder them from burning. When they
are done, bruise them to a mush, and put to them a
piece of butter the size of a nutmeg, and a little brown
sugar. Serve it in a sauce-tureen.
The old Currant-Sauce for Venison.
Boil an ounce of dried currants in half a pint of wa-
1


140
SAUCES.
ter a few minnets; then add a small tea cupful of
bread-crumbs, six cloves, a glass of port wine, and a
bit of butter. Stir it till the whole is smooth..
Lemon Sauce.
Cut thin slices of lemon into very small dice, and
put them into melted butter, give it one boil, and pour
it over boiled fowls.
Carrier Sauce for Mutton.
Chop six shallots fine; and boil them up with a gill
of gravy, a spoonful of vinegar, some pepper and salt,
Serve it in a boat.
Tomatoes.
Tomatoes are used in soups, sauces, and to serve as
little dishes at table, at any rart of a dinner.
To bake Tommatoes.
Cut somętommatoes in two the broad way, put them
upon a tin, with the part where there is rind down-
wards. Strew upon each a seasoning of pepper, salt,
and' sweet herbs chopped small. Set them into an
oven, till they are soft, and serve them up without any
other sauce.
The fruit of the purple egg-plant is eaten, prepared
in the same mapper.
These must be cut the long way.
Ham Sauce.
When a ham is almost done with, pick all the meat
elean from the bone, leaving out wny rusty part; beat
the meat and the bone to a mash with a rolling-pin; put
it in a saucepan, with three spoonfuls of gravy ; set
it over a slow fire, and stir it all the time, or it will
stick to the bottom. When it has been on some time,
put to it a small bundle of sweet herbs, some pepper,
and half a pint of beef-gravy; cover it up, and let it.
stew over a gentle fire. When it has a good flavour
of the herbs, strain off the gravy. A little of this is an
improvement to all gravies.
A very fine Fish Sauce.
Put into a very nice tia saucepan a pint of fine port


SAUCES.
wine, a gill of mountain, half a pint of fine walnut,
ketchup, twelve anchovies and the liquor that belongs to
them, a gill of walnut-pickle, the rind and juice of a
large lemon, four or five shallots, some Cayenne to taste,
three ounces of scraped horse-radish, three blades of
mace, and two tea-spoonfuls of made mustard ; boil it
all gently, till the rawness goes off ; then put it into
small bottles for use. Cork them very close, and seal
the top.
Another.-Chop twenty-four anchovies not washed,
and ten shallots, and scrape three spoonfuls of horse-
radish : which, with ten blades of mace, twelve cloves,
two sliced lemons, half a pint of anchovy-liquor, a quart
of hock or Rhenish wine, and a pint of water, boil to a
quart : then strain off; and when cold, add three large
spoonfuls of walnut-ketchup, and put into small bottles
well corked.
Fish Sauce without Butter.
Simmer very gently a quarter of a pint of vinegar and
half a pint of water (which must not be hard.) with an
onion, half a handful of horse-radish, and the following
spices lightly bruised ; four cloves, two blades of mace,
and half a tea-spoonful of black pepper. When the on-
ion is quite tender, chop it small with two anchovies,
and set the whole on the fire to boil for a few minutes,
with a spoonful of ketchup. In the mean time, have
ready and well beaten, the yolks of three fresh eggs;
strain them, mix the liquor by degrees with them, and
when well mixed set the saucepan over a gentle fire,
keeping a bason in one hand, into which toss the sauce
to and fro, and shake the saucepan over the fire, that
the eggs may not curdle. Do not boil them, only let the
sauce be hot enough to give it the thickness of melted
butter.
An excellent substitute for Caper Sauce.
Boil slowly some parsley, to let it become a bad colour
cut, but do not chop it fine ; put it to melted butter, with
a tea-spoonful of salt, and a dessert-spoonful of vinegar.
Boil up and serve.


144
SAUCES:
strain through a hare bag, and to each gallon of liquor
add a pound of the coarsest sugar, put it into a bar-
rel and a toast and yeast; cover the bung-hole with a
bit of slate &c. as above. The greater quantity of su-
gar and fruit the stronger the vinegar.
Cucumber Vinegar.
Pare and slice fifteen large cucumbers, and put them
in a stone jar, with three pints of vinegar, four large
onions, sliced, two or three shallots, a little garlick, two
large spoonfuls of salt, three tea-spoonfuls of pepper,
and half a tea-spoonful of Cayenne. After standing
four days, give the whole a boil; when cold, strain, and
filter the liquor through pepper. Keep in small bottles,
to add to salad, or eat with meat.
Wine Vinegar.
After making raisin wine, when the fruit has been
strained, lay it on a heap to heat, then to every hun-
dred-weight put fifteen gallons of water-set the cask,
and put the yeast; &c. as before.
As vinegar is so necessary an article in a family, and
one on which so great a profit is made, a barrel or two
might always be kept preparing, according to what
suited. If the raisins of wine were ready, that kind
might be made; if a great plenty of gooseberries made
them cheap, that sort; or if neither, then the sugar vin-
egar--so that the cask may not be left empty, and grow
musty.
Nasturtions for Capers.
Keep them a few days after they are gethered; then
pour boiling vinegar over them, and when cold, cover.
They will not be fit to eat for some months; but are
then finely flavoured, and by many prefered to capers.
To make Mustard.
Mix the best Durham flour of mustard by degrees,
with boiling water, to a proper thickness, rubbing it
perfectly sınooth ; add a little salt, and keep it in a
small jar close covered, and put only as much into the


SAUCES.
145
glass as will be used soon : which should be wiped daily
round the edges.
Another way for immediate use.
Mix the mustard with new milk, by degrees, to be
quite smooth, and add a little raw cream. It is much
softer this way, is not bitter, and will keep well.
The patent mustard is by many preferred, and it is
perhaps as cheap, being always ready; and if the pats
are returned, three-pence is allowed for each.
A tea-spoonful of sugar, to half a pint of mustard, is
a great improvement, and softens it.
Kitchen pepper.
Mix in the finest powder, one ounce of ginger; of cin-
namon, black pepper, nutmeg, and Jamaica pepper,
half an ounce each; len cloves and six ounces of salt,
Keep it in a bottle it is an agreeable addition to any
brown sauces or soups.
Spice in powder, kept in small bottles close stopped,
goes much farther than when used whole. It must be
dried before pounded : and should be done in quantities
that may be wanted in three or four months. Nutmeg
need not be done-but the others should be kept in se-
parate bottles, with a little label on each,
Tb dry Mushrooms.
Wipe them clean; and of the large take ont the brown,
and peel off the skin. Lay them on paper to dry in a
cool oven, and keep them in paper bags, in a dry place.
When used, simmer them in the gravy, and they will
swell to near their former size; to simmer them in their
own liquor till it dra up into them, shaking the pan, then
drying on din plates, is a good way, with spice or not, as
above, before-made into powder.
Tie down with bladder; and keep in a dry place, or
in paper.
Mushroom Powder.
Wash half a peck of large mushrooms while quite
fresh, and free them from grit and dirt with ilannel:
serape out the black part clean; and do not use any
N


BAUCES,
. 147
Forcemeat,
Whether in the form of stuffing-balls, or for patties,
makes a considerable part of good cooking, by the 19:
vour it imparts to whatsoever dish it is added, if pros
perly made.
Exact rules for the quantity cannot easily be given
but the following observations may be useful, and habit
will soon give knowledge in mixing it to the taste.
At many tables, where every thing else is well done,
it is common to find very bad stuffing.
According to what it is wanted for, should be the se-
lection from the following list, observing that of the most
pungent articles, least must be used. No one flavour
should predominate greatly; yet, if several dishes be
served the same day, there should be a marked variety
in the taste of the forcemeat, as well as of the gravies,
It whould be consistent enough to cut with a knife, but
not dry and heavy.
Forcemeat Ingredients,
Cold fowl or yeal, Oysters.
Scraped ham.
Anchovy.
Fat bacon.
Taragon.
Beef-suet.
Savoury.
Crumbs of Bread,
Penny-royal.
Parsley.
Knotted marjoram
Thyme.
Salt.
Basil.
Nutmeg.
Yoks of hard
gas:
Yolk and white of eggs Cayenne,
well beaten to biņu Garlick,
the mixture,
Shallot.
Chives,
Jamaica pepper, in fing
powder, or two of three
cloves.
The first column contains the articles of which the
forcemeat may be made, without any striking flavour ,
and to those may be added some of the different 'ingre:
dients of the second column lo vary the taste,
White pepper:


SAUCES.
Forcemeal, to force Fowls or Meal.
Shread a little ham, or gammon, some cold veal, or
fowl, some beef-suet, a small quantity of onion, some
parsley, very little lemon-peel, salt nutmeg, or pounded
mace, and either white pepper, or Cayenne, and bread-
crumbs.
Pound it in a mortar, and bind it with one or two
eggs beaten and strained. For forcemeat patties, the
mixture as above.
For cold Savoury Pies.
The same ; only substituting fat, or bacon, for suct.
The livers (if the pie be of rabbit or fowls,) mixed with
fat and lean of pork, instead of bacon, and seasoned as
above, are excellent.
Ditto, for' baked Pike, page 40.
Ditto, for Pike, Haddock, and small Cod, page 41.
Ditto, for Mackerel, page 40.
Ditto, for Fish Pieg page 151.
Very fine Forcemeat-balls, for Fish Soups, or Fish Steve-
ed, on maigre days.
Beat the flesh and soft parts of a middling lobster,
hali an anchovy, a large piece of boiled celery, the yolk
of a hard egg, a little Cayenne, mace, salt, and white
pepper, with two table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, one
ditto of oyster liquor, two ounces of butter warmed,
and two eggs long beaten: make ipto balls, and fry of a
fine brown in butter. -
Forcemcat as for turtle.
A pound of fine fresh suet, one ounce of ready dressed
veal or chicken, chopped fine, crumbs of bread, a little
shallot or onion, salt, white pepper, nutmeg, mace, pen-
ny-royal, parsley, and lemon-thyme, finely shred; beat
as many fresh eggs, yolks and whites separately, as will
make the above ingredients into a moist paste ; roll into
small þalls, and boil them in fresh lard, putting them in
just as it boils up. When of a light brown, take them
out, and drain them before the fire. If the suel


SAVOURY PIES,
be moist or stale, a great many more egents will be
necessary
Balls made this way are remarkably light: but be:
ing greasy, some people prefer them wịth less suet and
eggs.
Little eggs for Turtle.
Beat three hard yolks of eggs in a mortar, and make
i n to a paste with the yolk of a raw one, roll it into small
þalls, and throw them into boiling water for two minutes
harden.
Browning to colour and flavour made-dishes,
Beat to powder four ounces of double refined sugar,
put it into a very nice iron frying-pan, with one ounce
of fine fresh butter, mix it well over a clear fire, and
when it begins to froth, hold it up higher; when of a
very fine dark brown, pour in a small quantity ofa pint
of port, and the whole by very slow degrees, stirring all
the time. Put to the above half an ounce of Jamaica,
and the same of black pepper, six cloves of shallots peel
ed, three blades of mace bruised, three spoonfuls of
mushroom and the same of walnut ketchup, some salt,
and the finely pared rind of a lemon; boiled gently fif-
teen minutes, pour it into a basin til] cold, take off the
scum, and bottle for use.
Casserol, or Rice Edging, for a Currie or Fricassee.
After soaking and picking fine Carolina rice, boil it
in water, and a little salt, until tender, but not to a mash;
drain, and put it round the inner edge of the dish to the
height of two inches ; smooth it with the back of a spoon,
and wash it over with yolk of egg, and put it into the
pven for three or four minutes, then serve the meat in
the middle.
PIES, PUDDINGS, AND PASTRY,
SAVOURY PIES.
fFruit Pies will be placed under the head Pastry:)
OBSERVATIONS ON SAVOURY PIES.
There are few articles of cookery more generally
X 2


150
SAVOURY PICS.
liked than relishing-pies, if properly made ; and they
may be made so of a great variety of things. Some are
best eaten' when cold, and in that case, there should be
no suet put into the forcemeat that is used with them.
If the pie is either made of meat that will take inore
dressing, to make it extremely tender, then the baking
of the crust will allow, or, if it is to be served in an
earthen pie-form, observe the following preparation :
Take three pounds of the very nicest of beef (for
instance) that has fat and lean ; wash it; and season it
with salt, pepper, mace, and allspice, in fine powder,
rubbing them well in. Set it by the side of a slow fire,
in a stew-pot that will just hold it; put to it a piece of
butter ut about the weight of two ounces, and cover it
quite close ; let it just simmer in its own steam till it
begins to shrink. When it is cold, add more seasoning,
forcemeat, and eggs; and if it is in a dish, put some
gravy to it before baking; but if it is only in crust, do
not put the gravy till after it is cold and in jelly, as
has been described in pages 111 and 112. Forcemeat
may be put both under and over the meat, if preferred
to balls.
Eel Pie.
Cut the eels in lengths of two or three inches, season
with pepper and salt, and place in the dish, with
some bits of butter, and a little water, and cover it
with paste.
Cod Pie.
Take a piece of the middle of a small cód, and salt it
well one night: next day wash it: season with pepper,
salt, and a very little nutmeg, mixed; place in a dish,
and put some butter on it, and a little good broth of any
kind into the dish.
Cover it with a crust; and when done, add a sauce of
a spoonful of broth, a quarter of a pint of cream, a little
flour and butter, a grate of lemon and nutmeg, and give
it one boil. Oysters may be added.
Mackerel will do well, but do not salt them till used.


SAVOURY PIES.
151
Parsley picked and put in, may be used instead of
oysters.
Shrimp Pie, Excellent.
Pick a quart of shrimps : if they are very salt, season
them with only mace and a clove or two. Mince two
or three anchovies ; mix these with the spice, and then
season the shrimps. Put some butter at the bottom of
the dish, and over the shrimps, with a glass of sharp
white wine. The paste must be light and thin. They
do not take long baking.
Lobster Pie.
Boil two lobsters, or three small, take out the tails,
cut them in two, take out the gut, cut each in four pieces
and lay in a small dish, then put in the meat of the claws,
and that you have picked out of the body; pick off the
furry parts from the latter, and take out the lady; the
spawn beat in a mortar ; likewise all the shells ; set
them on to stew with some water, two or three spoon-
fuls of vinegar, pepper, salt, and some pounded mace :
a large piece of butter, rolled in flour, must be added
when the goodness of the shells is obtained : give a boil
or two, and pour into the dish strained; stew some
crumbs, and put a paste over all; bake slowly, but only
till the paste be done.
A remarkable fine Fish Pie.
Boil two pounds of small eels ; having cut the fins
quite close, pick the flesh off, and throw the bones into
the liquor with a little mace, pepper, salt, and a slice
of onion ; boil till quite rich, and strain it. Make force-
meat of the flesh, an anchovy, parsley, lemon-peel, salt,
pepper, and crumbs, and four ounces of butter warmed,
and lay it at the bottom of the dish. Take the flesh of
a small cod, or dressed turbot, and lay them on the
forcemeat, having rubbed it with salt and pepper : pour
the gravy over and bake.
Beef Steak Pie.
Prepare the steaks as ip page 62, and when seasoned
and rolled with fat in each, put them in a dish with


152
SAVOURY PIES.
puff paale round the edges ; put a little water in the
dish, and cover it with a good crust,
Veal pie.
Take some of the middle, or scrag of a small neck;
season it; and either put to it, or not, a few slices of lean
bacon or ham. If it is wanted of a high relish, add mace,
Cayenne, and nutmeg, to the salt and pepper : and also
forcemeat and eggs; and if you choose, add truffles,
morels, mushrooms, sweetbreads cut into small bits, and
cocks’-combs blanched, if liked. Have a rich gravy
ready, to pour in after baking. It will be very good
without any of the latter additions,
A rich Veal pie.
Cut steaks from a neck or breast of veal ; season
them with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a very little clove
in powder. Slice two sweetbreads, and season thein
in the same manner. Lay a puff paste on the edge of
the dish; then put the meat, yolks of hard eggs, the
sweetbreads, and some oysters, up to the top of the
dish. Lay over the whole some very thin slices of
· ham, and fill up the dish with water; cover; and when
it is taken out of the oven, pour in at the top, through
a funnel, a few spoonfuls of good veal-gravy, and some
cream to fill up; but first boil it up with a tea-spoonful
of flour,
Veal, (or Chicken,) and parsley pie.
Cut some slices from the leg or neck of veal ; if the
leg, from about the knuckle. Season them with salt;
scald some parsley that is picked from the stems, and
squeeze it dry; cut it a little, and lay it at the bottom
of the dish ; then put the meat, and so on, in layers.
Fill the dish with new milk, but not so as to touch
the crust. Cover it; and when baked, pour out a little
of the milk, and put in half a pint of good scalded
cream.
Chicken may be cut up skimmed, and made in the
same way,


SAVOURY PIES.
153
Veal-Olive Pie.
Make the olives as directed in page 75; put them
round and round the dish, making the middle highest.
Fill it up almost with water, and cover it. Add gravy,
cream, and flour.
Calf's-head Pie.
Stew a knuckle of veal till fit for eating, with two
onions, a few isinglass-shavings, a bunch of herbs a
blade of mace, and a few pepper-corns, in three pints of
water. Keep the broth for the pie. Take off a bit of
the meat for the balls, and let the other be eaten, but
simmer the bones in the broth till pit is very good.
Hali-boil the head, and cut it into square bits ; put a
layer of ham at the bottom; then some head, first fat,
then lean, with balls and hard eggs cut in hall, and so
on till the dish be full; but be particularly careful not to
place the pieces close, or the pie will be too solid, and
there will be no space for the jelly. The meat must be
first pretty well seasoned with pepper and salt, and a
scrape or two of nutmeg. Put a little water and a
little gravy into the dish, and cover it with a tolerably
thick crust; bake it in a slow oven, and when done,
pour into it as much gravy as it will possibly hold, and
do not cut it till perfectly cold; in doing which, ob-
serve to use a very sharp knife, and first cut out a
large bit, going down to the bottom of the dish; and
when done thus, thinner slices can be cut; the differ-
ent colours and the clear jelly have a beautiful mar-
bled appearance.
A small pie may be made to eat hot, which, with
high seasoning, oysters, mushrooms, truffles, morels,
&c. has a very good appearance.
The cold pie will keep many days. Slices make a
pretty side dish.
Instead of isinglaes, use a calf's foot, or a cow-heel,
if the jelly is not likely to be stiff enough.
The pickled tongues of former calves’-heads may be
cut in, to vary the colour, instead of, or besides ham.
Excellent pork Pies to eat cold.
Raise common boiled crust into either a round or


SAVOURY PIES
156
waier before baking, and as much gravy when it comes
from the oven,
Note.-Meat pies being fat, it is best to let out the
gravy on one side, and put it in again by a funnel, at
the centre, and a little may be added.
Chicken Pie.
Cut up two young fowls; season with white pepper,
salt, a little mace, and nutmeg, all in the finest pow-
ler; likewise a little Cayenne. Put the chicken, slices
of hanı, or fresh gammon of bacon, forcemeat-balls, and
hard eggs, by turns, in layers. If it is to be baked in a
dish, put in a little water ; but none if in a raised crust.
By the time it returns from the oven, have ready a
gravy off a knuckle of veal, or a bit of the scrag, with
some shank-bonies of mutton, seasoned with herbs, oni-
on, mace, and white pepper. If it is to be eaten hot
you may add truffles,, morels, mushrooms, &c. but not
if to be eaten cold. If it is made in á dish, put as
much gravy as will fill it ; but in a raised crust, the
gravy must be nicely strained, and then put in cold as
jelly. To make the jelly clear, you may give it a boil
with the whites of two eggs, after taking away the
meat, and then run it through a fine lawn sieve.
Rabbits, if young and in flesh, dó as well : their legs
should be cut short, and the breast-bones must not go
in, but will help to make the gravy.
Green-Goose Pie.
Bonė two young green geese, of a good size ; but first
take away every plug, and since them nicely. Wash
them clean; and season them high with salt, pepper,
mace, and allspice. Put one inside the other, and press
them as close as you can, drawing the legs inwards. Put
a good deal of butter over them, and bake them either
with or without crust; if the latter, a cover to the dish
must fit close to keep in the steam. It will keep long:
Duck Pie.
Boné a full grown young duck and a fowl; wash them
and season with pepper and salt, and a small propor ---


156
SAVOURY PIES.
tion of mace and allspice; in the finest powder. Put
the fowl within the duck, and in the former a calf's--
tongue pickled red, boiled very tender and peeled.
Press the whole close ; the sķins of the legs should be
drawn inwards, that the body of the fowls may be quite
smooth. If approved, the space between the sides of
the crust may be filled with a fine forcemeat, made ac-
cording to the second receipt given for making force-
meat in page 148. Bake it in a slow oven, either in a
raised crust, or pie-dish, with a thick crust, ornamented.
The large pies in Staffordshire are made as above,
but with a goose outwards, then a turkey, a duck next,
then a fowl, and either tongue, small birds, or force-
meat, in the middle.
Giblet Pie.
After nicely cleaning goose or duck giblets, stew
them with a small quantity of water, onion, black pep-
per, and a bunch of sweet herbs, till nearly done. Let
them grow cold; and if not enough to fill the dish, lay
a beef, veal, or two or three mutton steaks, at bottom.
Put the liquor of the stew to bake with the above ; and
when the pie is baked, pour into it a large tea-cupful
of cream.
Sliced potatoes added to it, eat extremely well.
Pigeon pie.
Rub the pigeons with pepper and salt, inside and
out; in the latter put a bit of butter, and if approved,
some parsley chopped with the livers, and a little of the
same seasoning. Lay'a beef-steak at the bottom of the
dish, and the birds on it; between every two, a hard
egg. Put a cup of water in the dish; and if you have
any ham in the house, lay a bit on each pigeon; it is
a great improvement to the flavour.
Observe when ham is cut for gravy or pies, to take
the under part rather than the prine.
Season the gizzards, and two joints of the wings,
and put them in the centre of the pie; and over them,
in a hole made in the crust, three feet nicely cleaped,
to show what pie it is.


SAVOURY PIES.
1.57
Partridge Pie in a Dish.
Pick and singe four partridges: cut off the legs at
the knee, season with pepper, salt, chopped parsley,
thyme, and mushrooms. Lay a veal-steak, and a slice
of ham, at the bottom of the dish ; put the partridges
in, and half a pint of good broth. Put puff paste on
the ledge of the dish, and cover with the same; brush
it over with egg, and bake an hour.
A French Pie.
Lay a puff paste round on the ledge of the dish, and
put in either veal in slices, rabbits, or chickens jointed;
with forcemeat-balls, sweet breads cut in pieces, arti-
choke bottoms, and a few truffles.
Vegetable Pie.
Scald and blanch some broad beans; cut young car-
rots, turnips, artichoke-bottoms, mushrooms, peas, oni-
ons, lettuce, parsley, celery, or any of them you have ;
make the whole into a nice stew, with some good veal-
gravy. Bake a crust over a dish, with a little lining
wund the edge, and a eup turned up to keep it from
sinking. When baked, open the lid, and pour in the
stew.
Parsley Pie.
Lay a fowl, or a few bones of the scrag of veal, sea-
soned, into a dish, scald a colander full of picked pars-
dey in milk; season it; and add to it the fowl or meat,
with a tea-cupful of any sort of good broth, or weak
gravy. When it is baked, pour into it a quarter of a
pint of cream scalded, with the size of a walnut of but-
ter, and a bit of fionr. Shake it round, to mix with
the gravy already in.
Lettuces, white :ustard leaves, or spinach, may be
added to the parsley, and scalded before put in.
Turnip Pie.
Season mutton chops with salt and pepper, resery-
ing the ends of the neck-bones to lay over the turnips,
which must be cut into small dice, and put on the
steaks.


158
SAVOURY PIES.
Put two or three good spoonfuls of milk in.' You
may add sliced onion. Cover with a crust.
Potatoe Pie.
Skin some potatoes, and cut them into slices; sea-
son them; and also some mutton, beef, pork, or veal.
Put layers of them and of the meat.
An Hero Pie.
Pick, two handfuls of parsley from the stems, half
the quantity of spinach, two lettuces, some mustaril and
cress, a few leaves of borage, and white-beet leaves ;
wash, and boil them a little; then drain, and press out
the water; cat thein small; mix, and lay them in a
dish, sprinkle with some salt; mix a batter of flour,
two eggs well beaten, a pint of cream, and half a pint
of milk, and pour it on the herbs; cover with a good
crust, and bake.
Raised Crust, for Meat Pies, or Fowls, &c.
Boil water with a little fine lard, and an equal quan-
tity of fresh dripping, or of butter, but not much of ei-
ther. While hot, inix this with as much flour as you
will want, making the paste as stiff as you can to be
smooth, which you will make it by good kneading and
beating it with the rolling-pin. When quite smooth,
put a lump into a cloth, or under a pan, to soak till
near cold.
Those who have not a good hand at raising crust may
do thus: Roll the paste of a proper thickness, and cut
out the top and bottom of the pie, then a long piece
for the sides. Cement the bottom to the sides with egg,
bringing the former rather farther out, and pinching
both together; put egg between the edges of the paste,
to make it adhere at the sides. Fill your pie, and put
on the cover, and pinch it and the side crust together.
The same mode of uniting the paste is to be observed
if the sides are pressed into a tin form, in which the
paste must be baked, after it shall be filled and cover-
ed; but in the latter case, the tin should be buttered,
and carefully taken off when done enough ; and as the
form usually makes the sides of a lighter colour than is


PUDDINGS.
159
proper, the paste should be put into the oven again for
a quarter of an hour. With a feather, put egg over at
first.
PUDDINGS, ETC.
Observations on making Puddings and Pancakes.
The outside of a boiled pudding often tastes disa-
greeably; which arises from the cloth not being nicely
washed, and kept in a dry place. It should be dipped
in boiling water, squeezed dry, and floured when to be
used.
If bread, it should be tied loose; if batter, tight over.
The water should boil quick when the pudding is
put in; and it should be moved about for a minute, lest
the ingredients should not mix.
Batter-pudding should be strained through a coarse
sieve, when all is mixed. In others, the eggs, separately.
The pans and basins must be always buttered.
A pan of cold water should be ready, and the pud.
ding dipped in as soon as it comes out of the pot, and
then it will not adhere to the cloth.
Very good puddings may be made without eggs, but
they must have as little milk as will mix, and must boil
three or four hours. A few spoonfuls of fresh small
beer, or one of yeast, will answer instead of eggs.
Or Snow is an excellent substitute for eggs, either in
puddings or pancakes. Two large spoonfuls will sup-
ply the place of one egg, and the article it is used in
will be equally good. This is a useful piece of infor-
mation, especially as snow often falls at the season
when eggs are dearest. Fresh small beer, or bottled
malt liquors, likewise serve instead of eggs. The snow
may be taken up from any clean spot before it is wait-
ed, and will not lose its virtue, though the sooner it is
used the better.
Note.-The yolks and whites beaten long and sepa:
rately, make the article they are put into much lighter.
Almond Pudding.
Beat half a pound of weet and a few bitter almonds
with a spoonful of water; then mix four ounces of butter,


160
PUDDINGS.
four eggs, two spoonfuls of cream, warm with the butter
one of brandy, a little nutmeg, and sugar to taste. But-
ter some cups, half fill, and bake the puddings. Serve
with butter, wine, and sugar.
Baked Almond Pudding.
Beat fine four ounces of almonds, tour or five bitter
ditto, with a little wine, yolks of six eggs, peel of two
lemons grated, six ounces of butter, near a quart of
cream, and juice of one lemon. When well mixed,
bake it half an hour, with paste round the dish.
Small Almond Pudding.
Pound eight ounces of almonds, and a few bitter,
with a spoonful of water; mix with four ounces of but-
ter warmed, four yolks and two whites of eggs, sugar
to taste, two spoonfuls of cream, and one of brandy;
mix well, and bake in little cups buttered. Serve with
pudding-sauce.
Sago Pudding
Boil a pint and a half of new milk, with four spoon-
fuls of sago nicely washed and picked, lemon-peel, cin-
pamon, and nutmeg ; sweeten to taste ; then mix four
eggs, put a paste round the dish, and bake slowly.
Bread and Butter Pudding.
Slice bread spread with butter, and lay it in a dish
with currants between each layer; and sliced citron,
orange, or lemon ; if to be very nice. Pour over an
unboiled custard of milk, two or three eggs, a few pi-
mentos, and a very little ratafia, two hours at least be-
fore it is to be baked ; and lard it, over to soak the
bread.
A paste round the edge makes all puddings look bet-
ter, but is not necessary.
Orange Pudding.
Grate the rind of a Seville orange : put to it six oun-
ces of fresh butter, six or eight ounces of lump-sugar
pounded : beat them all in a marble mortar, and adů as
you do it, the whole of eight eggs well beaten and


PUDDINGS...
161
.
strained ; scrape a raw apple, and mix with the rest ;
put a paste at the bottom and sides of the dish, and
over the orange mixture put cross bars of paste. Half
an hour will bake it.
Another.-Mix of orange paste two full spoons, with
şix eggs, four of sugar, four ounces of butter warm,
and put into a shallow dish with a paste lining. Bake
twenty minutes.
Another.-Rather more than two table-spoonfuls of
the orange paste, mixed with six eggs, four ounces of
sugar, and four ounces of butter, nielted, will make a
good sized pudding, with a paste at the bottom of the
dish. Bake twenty minutes.
An excellent Lemon Pudding.
Beat the yolk of four eggs; add four ounces of white
sugar, the rind of a lemon being rubbed with some
lumps of it to take the essence : then peel, and beat it
in a mortar with the juice of a large lemon, and mix
all with four or five ounces of butter warmed. Put a
crust into a shallow dish, nick the edges, and put the
above into it. When served, turn the pudding out of
the dish.
A very fine Amber Pudding.
Put a pound of butter into a sauce-pan with three
quarters of a pound of loaf sugar finely powdered ; melt
the butter, and mix well with it; then add the yolks of
fifteen eggs well beaten, and as much fresh candied
orange as will add colour and flavour to it, being first
beaten to a fine paste. Line the dish with paste for
turning out; and when filled with the above, lay a
crust over, as you would a pie, and bake it in a slow
1
oven.
It is as good cold as hot.
Baked apple pudding.
Pare and quarter four large apples'; boil th tender
with the rind of a lemon, in so little water that, when
done, none may remain ; beat them quite fine in a mor-
tar ; add the crumb of a small roll, four ounces of but-
ter, melted, the yolks of five and whites of three eggs,
0?


162
PUDDINGS.
juice of half a lemon, and sugar to taste; beat all toge-
ther, and lay it in a dish with paste to turn out.
Oatmeal pudding.
Pour a quart of boiling milk over a pint of the best
fine oatmeal: let it soak all night: next day beat two
eggs, and mix a little salt, butter a basin that will just
hold it ; cover it tight with a floured cloth, and boil it
an hour and a half. Eat it with cold butter and salt.
When cold, slice and toast it, and eat it, as oat-cake,
buttered.
Dutch pudding, or Souster.
Melt one pound of butter in half a pint of milk; mix
it into two pounds of flour, eight eggs, four spoonfuls
of yeast; add one pound of currants, and a quarter of
a pound of sugar beaten and sifted.
This is a very good pudding hot; and equally so as
cake when cold. If for the latter, carraways may be
used instead of currants. An hour will bake it in a
quick oven.
A Dutch rice pudding.
Soak four ounces of rice in warm water half an hour;
drain the latter from it, and throw it into a stew-pan,
with half a pint of milk, half a stick of cinnamon, and
simmer till tender. When cold, add four whole eggs
well beaten, two ounces of butter melted in a tea-cup-
ful of cream ; and put three ounces of sugar, a quarter
of a nutmeg, and a good piece of lemon-peel.
Put a light puff paste into a mould or dish, or grated
tops and bottoms, and bake in a quick oven.
Light or German puddings or puffs.
Melt three ounces of butter in a pint of cream ; let
it stand till nearly cold; then mix two ounces of fine
flour, and two ounces of sugar, four yolks and two
whites of eggs, and a little rose or orange-flower water.
Bake in little cups buttered, half an hour. They should
be served the moment they are done, and only when
going to be eaten, or they will not be light.
Turn out of the cups, and serve with white wine and
sugar.


PUDDINGS
163
egos
Lillle Bread Puddings.
Steep the crumb of a penny loaf, grated, in about a
pint of warm milk; when soaked, beat six eggs, whites
and yolks, and mix with the bread, and two ounces of
butter warmed, sugar, orange-flower water, a spoonful
of brandy, a little nutmeg, and a tea-cupful of cream.
Beat all well, and bake in tea-cups buttered. If cur-
rants are chosen, a quarter of a pound is sufficient; if
not they are good without: or you may put orange or
lemon-candy. Serve with pudding-sauce.
Puddings in haste.
Shred suet, and put, with grated bread, a few cur-
rants, the yolks of four eggs and the whites of two,
some grated lemon-peel and ginger. Mix, and make
into little balls about the size and shape of an
with a little flour.
Have rea ly a skillet of boiling water, and throw them
in. Twenty minutes will boil them; but they will rise
to the top when done. Pudding-sauce.
New College Pudding:
Grate the crumb of a two-penny loaf, shred suet eight
ounces, and mix with eight ounces of currants, one of
citron mixed fine, one of orange, a handful of sugar,
half a nutmeg, three eggs beaten, yolk and white se-
parately. Mix, and make into the size and shape of a
goose-egg. Put half a pound of butter into a frying-
pan; and when melted and quite hot, stew them gentiy
in it over a stove ; turn them two or three times till
of a fine light brown. Mix a glass of brandy with the
batter.
Serve with pudding-sauce.
Boiled Bread Pudding.
Grate white bread; pour boiling milk over it, and
cover close. When soaked an hour or two, beat it fine
and mix with it two or three eggs well beaten.
Put it into a basin that will just hold it ; tie a floured
cloth over it, and put it into boiling water. Send it
up with melted butter poured over.
It may be eaten with salt or sugar.


164
PUDDINGS.
Prunes, or French plums, make a fine pudding in.
stead of raisins, either with suet or bread pudding
Another and richer.-On half a pint of crumbs of
bread pour half a pint of scalding milk; cover for an
hour, Beat up four eggs, and when strained, add to
the bread, with a tea-spoonful of flour, an ounce of but
ter, two ounces of sugar, half a pound of currants, an
ounce of almonds beaten, with orange-flower water,
half an ounce of orange, ditto lemon, ditto citron.
Butter a basin that will exactly hold it, flour the cloth,
and tie tight over, and boil one hour,
Brown Bread pudding.
Half a pound of stale brown bread grated, ditto of
currants, ditto of shred suet, sugar and nutmeg, mix
with four en ans, a spoonful of brandy, and two spoonfula
of cream; boil in a cloth or basin that exactly holds it,
three or four hours.
Nelson pudding.
Put into a Dutch oven six small cakes called Nel-
son-balls, or rice cakes made in small tea-cups. When
quite hot, pour over them boiling melted butter, white
wine, and sugar, and serve.
Eve's pudding.
Grate three quarters of a pound of bread ; mix it with
the same quantity of shred suet, the same of apples,
and also of currants; mix with these the whole of four
eggs, and the rind of half a lemon shred fine. Put it
into a shape ; boil three hours, and serve with pudding-
sauce, the juice of half a lemon, and a little nutmeg.
Quaking pudding.
Scald a quart of cream ; when almost cold, put to it
four eggs well eaten, a spoonful and a half flour,
some nutmegs and sugar; tie it close in a buttered
cloth, boil it an hour, and turn it out with care, lest
it should crack. Melted butter, a little wine, and
sugar.


PUDDINGS.
165
Duke of Cumberland's Pudding.
Mix six ounces of grated bread, the same quantity
of currants well cleaned and picked, the same of beef-
suet finely shred, the same of chopped apples, and also
of lump sugar, six eggs, half a nutmeg, a pinch of salt,
the rind of a lemon minced as fine as possible, and ci- ,
tron, orange, and lemon, a large spoonful of each cut
thin. Mix thoroughly, and put into a basin ; cover
very close with floured cloths, and boil three hours.
Serve it with pudding-sauce, and the juice of half a
lemon boiled together.
Transparent pudding.
Beat eight eggs very well : put them into a stew-pan,
with half a pound of sugar pounded very fine, the same
quantity of butter, and some nutmeg grated. Set it on
the fire, and keep stirring it till it thickens. Then
set it into a basin to cool ; put a rich puff paste round
the edge of the dish ; pour in your pudding, and bake
it in a moderate oven. It will cut light and clear.-
You may add candied orange and citron if you
like.
Batter pudding
Rub three spoonfuls of fine tlour extremely smooth
by degrees into a pint of milk: simmer till it thickens,
stir in two ounces of butter, set it to cool; then add
the yolks of three eggs ; four a cloth that has been wet,
or butter a basin, and put the batter into it; tie it
tight, and plunge it into boiling water, the bottom up-
wards. Boil it an hour and a half, and serve with plain
butter. If approved, a little ginger, nutmeg, and le-
mon-peel, may be added. Serve with sweet sauce.
Batter pudding with meat.
Make a batter with a flour, milk, and eggs ; pour a
little into the bottom of a pudding-dish; then put sea-
soned meat of any kind into it, and a little shred onion ;
pour the remainder of the batter over, and bake in a
slow oven.
Some like a loin of mutton baked in batter, being
first cleared of most of the fat.


166.
PUDDINGS.
Rice small puddings.
Wash two large spoonfuls of rice, and simmer it with
half a pint of milk till thick, then put the size of an
egg of butter, and near half a pint of thick cream, and
give it one boil. When cold, mix four yolks and two
whites of eggs well beaten, sugar and nutmeg to taste ;
and add grated lemon and a little cinnamon.
Butter little caps, and fill three parts full, putting
at bottom some orange or citron. Bake three quarters
of an hour in a slowish oven. Serve the moment before
to be eaten, with a sweet sauce in a dish or boat.
Plain Rice pudding.
Wash and pick some rice ; tiirow among it some pi-
mento finely pounded, but not much ; tie the rice in a
cloth, and leave plenty of room for it to swell. Boil it
in a quantity of water for an hour or two.
When done,
eat it with butter and sugar, or milk. Put lemon-peel
if you please.
It is very good without spice, and eaten with salt and
butter.
A rich Rice pudding.
Boil half a pound of rice in water, with a little bit
of salt, till quite tender, drain it dry ; mix it with the
yolks and whites of four eggs, a quarter of a pint of
cream, with two ounces of fresh butter melted in the
latter, four ounces of beef-suet or marrow, or veal-suet
taken from a filiet of veal, finely shred, three quarters
of a pound of currants, two spoonfuls of brandy, one
of peach-water, or ratifia, nutmeg, and grated lemon-
peel. When well mixed, put a paste round the edge,
and fill the dish. Slices of candied orange, lemon, and
citron if approved. Bake in a moderate oven.
Rice pudding with fruit.
Swell the rice with a very litttle milk over the fire;
then mix fruit of any kind with it, (currants, goose-
berries scalded, pared and quartered apples, raisins,
or black currants ;) with one egg into the rice, to bind
it; boil it well and serve with sugar.
Baked Rice pudding.
Swell rice as above; then add some more milk, ah


PUDDINGS.
167
egg, sugar, allspice, and lemon-peel.
Bake in a deep
dish.
Another, for the family. Put into a very deep pap
half a pound of rice washed and picked ; two ounces of
butter, four ounces of sugar, a few allspice pounded,
and two quarts of milk.' Less butter will do, or some
suet. Bake in a slow oven.
A George Pudding.
Boil very tender a handful of whole rice in a small
quantity of milk, with a large piece of lemon-peel. Let
it drain; then mix with it a dozen of good sized apples,
boiled to pulp as dry as possible; add a glass of white
wine to the yolks of five eggs, two ounces of orange and
citron cut thin; make it pretty sweet. Line a mould
or basin with a very good paste; beat the five whites of
the eggs to a very strong froth, and mix with the other
ingredients; fill the mould, and bake it of a fine brown
'colour. Serve it with the bottom upward, with the fol -
lowing sauce : two glasses of wine, a spoonful of sugar,
the yolks of two eggs, and a bit of butter as large as a
walnut; simmer without boiling and pour to and from
the saucepan, till of a proper thickness; and put in the
dish.
An excellent plain Potatoe Pudding.
Take eight ounces of boiled potatoes, two ounces of
butter, the yolks and whites of two eggs, a quarter of a
pint of cream, one spoonful of white wine, a morsel of
salt, the juice and rind of a lemon: beat all to froth;
sugar to taste.
A crust or not, as you like. Bake it.
I wanted richer, put three ounces more butter, sweet-
meats and almonds, and another egg.
Potatoe Pudding with meat.
Boil them till fit to mash; rub through a colander,
and make into a thick batter with milk and two eggs..
Lay some seasoned steaks in a dish, then some batter,
and over the last layer pour the remainder of the but-
ter. Bake a fine brown.


168
PUDDINGS.
Steak or Kidnay Pudding.
If kidney, split and soak it, and season that or the
meat. Make a paste of suet, flour, and milk; roll it,
and line a basin with some; put the kidney or steaks
in, cover with paste, and pinch round the edge. Cover
with a cloth, and boil a considerable time,
Beef-steak pudding
Prepare some fine steaks as in page 61: roll them
with fat between : and if you approve shred onion, add
a very little. Lay a paste of suet in a basin, and put
in the rollers of steaks : cover the basin with a paste,
and pinch the edges to keep the gravy in. Cover with
a cloth tied close; and let the pudding boil slowly, but
for a length of time.
Baked Beef-steak pudding,
Make a batter of milk, two egys, and flour, or, which
is much better, potatoes boiled and mashed through a
colander : lay a little of it at the bottom of the dish;
then put in the steaks prepared as above, and very well
seasoned; pour the remainder of the batter over them
and bake it.
Mutton pudding
Season with salt, pepper, and a bit of onion : lay one
layer of steaks at the bottom of the dish ; anil pour a
batter of potatoes boiled and pressed through a colan-
der, and mixed with milk and an egg, over them; then
putting the rest of the steaks and batter, bake it.
Batter with four, instead of potatoes, eats well, but
requires more egg, and is not so good.
Another.--Cut slices off a leg that has been under-
done, and put them into a basin lined with a fine suet
crust. Season with pepper, salt, and finely shred onion
or shallot.
Suet pudding.
Shred a pound of suet; mix with a pound and a
quarter of flour, two eggs beaten separately, a little
salt, and as little milk as will make it. Boil four hours.
It eats well next day, cut in slices and broiled.


PUDDINGS.
169
The outward fat of loins or necks of mutton finely
shred, makes a more delicate pudding than suet.
Veal suet Pudding.
Cut the crumb of a three penny loaf into slices boil
and sweeten two quarts of new milk, and pour over it.
When soaked, pour out a little of the milk; and mix
with six eggs well beaten, and half a nutmeg. Lay
the slices of bread into a dish ; with layers of cur ants
and veal-suet shred, a pound of each. Butter the rdish
well, and bake; or you may boil it in a basin, if you
prefer it.
Hunter's pudding.
Mix a pound of suet, ditto flour, ditto currants, dit-
to rasins stoned and a little cut, the rind of half a le-
mon shred as fine as possible, six Jamaica peppers in
fine powder, four eggs, a glass of brandy, a little salt,
and as little milk as will make it of a proper consist-
ence; boil it in a floured cloth, or melon-mould, eight.
or nine hours. Serve with sweet sauce. Add some-
times a spoonful of peach-water for change of flavour.
This pudding will keep after it is boiled, six months,
if kept tied up in the same cloth, and hung up, folded
in a sheet of cap paper to preserve it from dust, being
first cold. When to be used, it must boil a full hour.
Plum pudding.
The same proportions of four and suet, and half the
quantity of fruit, with spice, lemon, a glass of wine or
not, and one egg, and milk, will make an excellent
pudding, if long boiled.
Custard pudding.
Mix by degrees a pint of good milk with a large
spoonful of flour, the yolks of five eggs, some orange-
flower water, and a little pounded cinnamon. Butter
a basin that will exactly hold it, pour the batter in,
and tie a floured cloth over. Put in boiling water
over the fire, and turn it about a few minutes to pre-
vent the egs going to one side. Half an hour will
bod it.
Р


170
PUDDINGS.
Put current jelly on it, and serve with sweet sauce.
Macaroni pudding.
Simmer an ounce or two of the pipe-sort, in a pint
of milk, and a bit of lemon and sindamon, till tender;
put it into a dish, with inilk, two or three eggs but only
one white, sugar, nutmeg, a spoonful of peach-water,
and half a glass of raisin wine. Bake with a paste
round the edges.
A layer of orange-marmalade, or raspberry-jam, in
a marcaroni pudding for ohange, is a great improve-
ment, in which case omit the almond-water, or ratafia,
which you would otherwise flavour it with.
An excellent apricot pudding.
Halve twelve large apricots, give them a scald till
they are soft; mean time pour on the grated crumbs of
a penny-loaf, a pint of boiling cream ; when half-cold,
four ounces of sugar, the yolks of four beaten eggs, and
a glass of white-wine. Pound the apricots in a mor...
tar, with some or all of the
kernels ; mix then the fruit
and other ingredients together ; put a paste round a
dish, and bake the pudding half an hour.
Baked goosberry pudding.
Stew gooseberries in a jar over a hot earth, or in a
saucepan of water, till they will pulp. Take a pint of
the juice pressed through a coarse siere, and beat it
with three yolks and whites of eggs beaten and strained,
one ounce and a half of butter; sweeten it well, and..
put a crust round the dish. A few crumbs of roll should
be mixed with the above to give a little consistence, or
four ounces of Naples biscuits.
Brandy pudding.
Line a mould with jar-raisins stoned or dried cher-
ries, then with thin slices of French roll, next to which
put ratafias, or macaroons; then the fruit, rolls, and
cakes, in succession until the mould be full ; sprink-
- ling in at times two glasses of brandy. Beat four eggs,
yolks and whites; put to a pint of milk or cream, light-
ly sweetened, half a putmeg, and the rind of half-a


PUDDINGS.
171
iemon finely grated. Let the liquid sink into the solid
part; then flour a cloth, tie it tight over, and boil ône
hour ; keep the mould the right side up. Serve with
pudding-sauce.
Boiled Curd Pudding.
Rub the curd of two gallons of milk well drained
through a sieve. Mix it with six eges, a litle cream,
two spoonfals of orange-flower water, half a putnieg,
four and crumbs of bread each three spoonfuls, cur-
rants and raisins half a pound each. Boil an hour in a
thick well-floured cloth.
Pippin pudding
Coddle six pippins in vine-leaves covered with wa-
ter, very gently, that the inside be done without break-
ing the skins. When soft, skin, and with a tea-spoon
take the pulp from the core. Press it through a colan-
der ; add two spoonfuls of orange-flower water, three
eggs beaten, a glass of raisin-wine, a pint of scalded
cream, sugar and nutmeg to taste. Lay a thin puff
paste at the bottom and sides of the dish: shred very
thin lemon-peel as fine as possible, and put it into the
dish ; likewise lemon, orange, and citron, in small slices,
but not so thin as to dissolve in the baking.
Yorkshire pudding.
Mix five spoonfuls of flour with a quart of milk, and
three eggs well beaten. Butter the pan. When brown
by baking under the meat, turn the other aide upwards,
and brown that. It should be made in a square pan,
and cut into pieces to come to table. Set it over a
chafing-dish at first, and stir it some minutes.
A quick made pudding.
Flour and suet half a pound each, four eggs, a quar-
ter of a pint of new milk, a little mace and nutmeg, a
quarter of a pound of raisins, ditto of currants : mix
well, and boil three quarters of an hour with the cover
of the pot on, or it will require longer.
Russian seed, or ground Rice pudding.
Boil a large spoonful heaped, of either, in a pint of


172
PUDDINGS
new milk, with lemon-peel and cinnamon. When cold
add sugar, nutineg, and two eggs well beaten. Bake
with a crust around the dish. •
A Welsh pudding.
Let half a pound of fine butter melt gently, beat with
it the yolks of eight and whites of four eggs, mix in six
ounces of loaf sugar, and the rind of a lemon grated.
Put a paste into a dish for turning out, and pour the
above in, and nicely bake it.
Oxford Dumplings.
Of grated bread two ounces, currants and shred suet
four ounces each, two large spoonfuls of flour, a great
deal of grated lemon-peel, a bit of sugar, and a little
pimento in fine powder. Mix with two eggs and a lit-
tle milk into five dumplings, and fry of a fine yellow
brown. Made with four instead of bread, but half the
quantity, they are excellent.
Serve with sweet sance.
Suet Dumplings.
Make as pudding (page 168), and drop into boiling
water, or into the boiling of beef; or you may boil then
in a cloth.
Apple, Currant, or Damson dumplings: or puddinge.
Make as above, and line a basin with a paste tolera-
bly thin; fill with the fruit, and cover it; tie a cloth
over tight, and boil till the fruit shall be done enough.
Yeast or Suffolk Dumplings.
Make a very light dough with yeast, as for bread,
but with milk instead of water, and put salt. Let it
rise an hour before the fire.
Twenty moinutes before you are to serve, have ready
a large stew-pan of boiling water; make the dough in-
to balls, the size of a middling apple ; throw them in,
and boil twenty minutes. If you doubt when done
enough, stick a clean fork into one, and if it come out
clear, it is done.
The way to eat them is, to tear them apart on the
top with two forks, for they become heavy by their


PUDDINGS, &c.
173
own steam. Eat immediately with meat, or sugar and
butter, or salt.
A Charlotte.
Cut as many very thin slices of white bread as will
cover the bottom and line the sides of a baking-dish :
but first rub it thick with butter. Put apples in thin
slices into the dish, in layers, till full, stewing sugar
between, and bits of butter. In the mean time, soak as
many thin slices of bread as will cover the whole,in warm
milk, over which lay a plate, and a weight to keep the
bread close on the apples. Bake slowly three hours,
To a middling-sized dish use half a pound of butter in
the whole.
Common pancakes,
Make a light batter of eggs, flour and milk. Fry in a
small pan, in hot dripping or lard. Salt, or nutmeg and
ginger, may be added,
Sugar and lemon should be served to eat with them.
Or, when eggs are scarce, make the batter with flour,
and small beer, ginger, &c. or clean snow, with flour,
and a very little milk, will serve as well as egg.
Fine pancakes, fried without butter or lard.
Beat six fresh eggs extremely well; mix, when strain-
ed, with a pint of cream, four ounces of sugar, a glass of
wine, half a nutmeg grated, and as much flour as will
make it almost as thick as ordinary pancake-batter, but
not quite. Heat the frying-pan tolerably hot, wipe it
with a clean cloth ; then pour in the batter to make
thin pancakes.
Pancakes of Rice.
Boil half a pound of rice to a jelly, in a small quantity
of water : when cold, mix it with a pint of cream, eight
eggs, a bit of salt, and nutmeg ; stir in eight ounces of
butter just warmed, and add as much flour as will
make the batter thick enough. Fry in as little lard or
dripping as possible.
Irish pancakes.
Bcat eight yolks and four whites of eggs, strain them
P 2


174
PUDDINGS, &e.
into a pint of cream, put a grated nutmeg, and sugar
to your taste; set three ounces of fresh butter on the
fire, stir it, and as it warms pour it to the cream, which
should be warm when the eggs are put to it; then mix
smooth almost halt a pint of four. Fry the pan.
cakes very thin; the first with a bit of butter, but
not the others.
Serve several on one another.
New-England pancakes.
Mix a pint of cream, five spoonfuls of fine flour, sev.
en yolks and four wbites of eggs, and a very little salt;
fry them very thin in fresh butter, and between each
strew sugar and cinnamon. Send up six or eight at
once.
Fritters.
Make them of any of the batters directed for pan-
cakes, by dropping a small quantity into the pan ; or
make the plainer sort, and put pared apple sliced and
cored into the batter, and fry some of it with each
slice. Currants or sliced lemons as thin as paper,
make an agreeable change. Fritters for company
should be servered on a folded napkin in the dish. Any
sort of sweetmeats, or ripe fruit, may be made into frit-
ters.
Spanish Fritters.
Cut the crumb of a French roll into lengths, as thick
as your finger, in what shape you will. Soak' in some
cream, nutmeg, sugar, pounded cinnamon, and an egg.
When well soaked, fry of a nice brown ; and serve
with butter, wine, and sugar-sauce.
Potatoe Fritters.
Boil two large potatoes, scrape them fine ; beat four
yolks and three whites of eggs, and add to the above
one large spoonful of cream, another of sweet wine, a
squeeze of lemon, and a little nutmeg. Beat this bat
ter half an hour at least. It will be extremely light.
Put a good quantity of fine lard in a stew pan, and
drop e spoonful of the batter at a time into it. Fry


PASTRIES
175
them; and serve as a sauce, a glass of white wine, the
juice of a lemon, one dessart-spoonful of peach-leaf or
almond-water, and some white sugar, warmed toge-
ther ; not to be served in the dish.
Another way.--Slice potatoes thin, dip them in a fine
batter, and fry. Serve with white sugar, sifted over
them, Lemon-peel, and a spoonful of grange-flower
water, should be added to the batter.
PASTRY.
Rich puff paste.
Puffs may be made of any sort of fruit, but it should
be prepared first with sugar.
Weigh an equal quantity of butter with as much
fine flour as you judge necessary; mix a little of the
former with the latter, and wet it with as little water
as will make it into a stiff paste. Roll it out, and put
all the butter over it in slices, turn in the ends, and roll
it thin: do this twice, and touch it no more than can
be avoided. The butter may be added at twice, and
to those who are not accustomed to make paste, it may
be better to do so.
A quicker oven than for short crust.
A less rich paste.
Weigh a pound of flour, and a quarter of a pound of
butter, rub them together, and mix into a paste with a
little water, and an egg well beaten-of the former as
little as will suffice, or the paste will be tough. Roll,
and fold it three or four times.
Rub extremely fine in one pound of dried flour, six
ounces of butter, and a spoonful of white sugar; work
up the whole into a stiff pastè with as little hot water
as possible.
Crust for Venison pastry.
To a quarter of a peck of fine flour use two pounds
and a half of butter, and four eggs; mix into paste with
warm water, and work it smooth and to a good consist-
ence. Put a paste round the inside, but not to the
bottom of the dish, and let the cover be pretty thick,
to bear the long continuance in the oven,


176
PASTRIES.
7
Rice paste for sweets.
Boil a quarter of a pound of ground rice in the smal
lest quantity of water : strain from it all the moisture as
well as you can; beat it in a mortar with half an ounce
of butter, and one egg well beaten, and it will make an
excellent paste for tarts, &c.
Rice paste for relishing things.
Clean and put some rice, with an onion, and a little
water and milk, or milk only, into a saucepan, and
simmer till it swell. Put seasoned chops into a dish,
and cover it with the rice; by the addition of an egg,
the rice will adhere the better.
Rabbits fricasseed and covered thus, are very good.
Potatoe paste.
Pound boiled potatoes very fine, and add, while
warın, a sufficiency of butter to make the mash hola
together, or you may mix with it an egg; then before
it gets cold, four the board pretty well to prevent it
from sticking, and roll it to the thickness wanted.
If it is become quite cold before it be put on the
dish, it will be apt to crack.
Raised crust for Custards or fruit.
Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan, with wa-
ter, and when it boils, pour it into as much flour as you
choose; knead and beat it till smooth ; cover it, as is
described page 158. Raise it; and if for custard, put
a paper within to keep out the sides till half-done, then
fill with a cold mixture of milk, egg, sugar, and a lit-
tle peach-water, lemon-peel or nutmeg. By cold is
meant that the egg is not to be warmed, but the milk
should be warmed by itself-not to spoil the crust.
The above butter will make a great deal of raised
crust, which must not be rich, or it will be difficult to
prevent the sides from falling.
Excellent short Crust.
Make two ounces of white sugar; pounded and sift-
ed quite dry; then mix it with a pound of flour well
dried, rub into it three ounces of butter, so fine as not


PASTRY.
177
to be seen into some cream put the yolks of two eggs,
beaten, and mix the above into a smooth paste; roll it
thin, and bake it in a moderate oven.
Another. Mix with a pound of fine flour dried, an
ounce of sugar pounded and sifted; then crumble three
ounces of butter in it, till it looks all like flour, and,
with a gill of hoiling cream, work it up to a fine paste.
Another not sweet but rich.-Rub six ounces of but-
ter in eight ounces of fine flour: mix it into a stiffish
paste, with as little water as possible: beat it well,
and rolhit thin. This, as well as the former, is proper
for tarts of fresh or preserved fruits. Bake in a mod-
erate oven.
A very fine Crust for Orange Cheesecakes, or Sweetmeats,
when to be particularly nice.
Dry a pound of the finest 1.03:1, 1:1, with it three
ounces of refined sugar; then work half a pound of but-
ter with your hand till it come to froth ; put the flour
into it by degrees, and work into it, well beaten and
strained, the yolks of three and whites of two eggs.
If too limber, put some flour and sugar to make it fit
to roll. Line your pattypans, and fill. A little above
fifteen minutes will bake them. Against they come
out, have ready some refined sugar beat up with the
white of an egg, as thick as you can; ioe them all over,
set them in the oven to harden, and serve cold. Use
fresh butter.
Salt butter will make a very fine flaky crust; but if
for mince-pies, or any sweet things, should be washed.
Observations on pastry.
An adept in pastry never leaves any part of it adher.
ing to the board, or dish, used in making. It is best
when rolled on marble, or a very large slate. In very
hot weather, the butter should be put into cold water
to make it as firm as possible ; and if niade early in the
morning, and preserved from the air until it is to be
baked, the cook will find it much better. A good hand
at pastry will use much less butter, and produce lighter
crust, than others. Salt butter, if very good and well
washed, makes a fine flaky crust.


178
PASTRY.
Remarks or using preserved fruit in pastry.
Preserved fruits should not be-baked long; triose
that have been done with their full proportion of sugar,
require no baking: the crust should be baked in a tin
shape, and the fruit be afterwards added ; or it may be
put into a small dish, or tart-pans, and the covers be
baked on a tin cut out according to your taste.
Apple pie.
Pare and core the fruit, having wiped the outside ;
which, with the cores, boil with a little water till it
taste well: strain, and put a little sugar, and a bit of
bruised cinnamon, and simmer again. In the mean
time place the apples in a dishy a paste being put round
the edge; when one layer is in, sprinkle half the sugar,
and shred lemon-peel, and squeeze some juice, or a glass
of cider. If the apples have lost their spirit; put in
the rest of the apples, sugar, and the liquor that you
have boiled. Cover with paste. You may add some
butter when cut, if eaten hot; or put quince-marma-
lade; orange-paste, or cloves ;. to flavour,
Hot apple pie. -Make with the fruit ; sugar, and a
clove, and put a bit of butter in when cut open.
Cherry pie
Should have a mixture of other fruit; currants or rasp
berries, or both.
Currant pie.
With or without rhaspberries.
Mince pie.
Of scraped beef free from skin and strings, weigh
21b. 4lb. of suet picked and chopped, then add 6lb. of-
currants nicely cleaned and perfectly dry, 3 lb. of chop-
ped apples, the peel and juice of two lemons, a pint of
sweet wine, a nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of cloves,
ditto mace, ditto pimento, in finest powder: press the
wlole into a deep pan when well mixed ; and keep it
covered in a cool dry place.
Half the quantity is enough, unless for a very large
family.


PASTRY.
179
Have citron, orange, and lemon-peel ready, and put
some of each in the pies when made.
Minee pies without meat.
Of the best apples six pounds, pared, cored, and
minced : of fresh suet, and raisins stoned, each three
pounds, likewise minced: to these add of mace and
cinnamon, a quarters of an ounce each, and eight
cloves, in finest powder, three pounds of the finest
powder sugar, three quarter of an ounce of salt, the
rinds of four and juice of two lemons, half a pint of port,
the same of brandy. Mix well, and put into a deep
pan.
Have ready washed and dried four pounds of cur.
rants, and add as you make the pies, with candied
fruit.
Lemon Mince pies.
Squeeze a large lemon, boil the outside till tender
enough to be at to a mash, add to it three large apples
chopped, and four ounces of suet, half a pound of cur-
rants, four ounces of sugar; put the juice of the lemon,
and candied fruit, as for other pies. Make a short
drust, and fill the pattypans as usual.
Egg Mince pies.
Boil six eggs hard, shred them small; shred double
the quantity of suet; then put currants washed and
picked, one pound, or more if the eggs were large ; the
peel of one lemon shred very fine, and the juice, six
spoonfuls of sweet wine, mace, nutmeg, sugar, a very
little salt ; orange, lemon, and citron, candied. Make
a light paste for them.
Currant and Rhaspberry.
For a tart, line the dish, put sugar and fruit, lay bars
across, and bake.
Light Paste for Tarts and Cheesecakes.
Beat the white of an egg to a strong froth; then mix
it with as much water as will make three quarters of a
pound of fine flour into a very stiff paste; roll it very


180
PASTRY.
thin, then lay the third part of half a pound of butter
upon it in little bits ; dredge it with some flour left out
at first, and roll it up tight. Roll it out again, and put
the same proportion of butter; and so proceed till all be
worked up.
Iceing for Tarts.
Beat the yolk of an egg and some melted butter well
together, wash the tarts with a feather, and sift sugar
over as you put them into the oven. Or beat white of
egg, wash the paste, and sift white sugar.
Pippin Tarts."
Pare thin two Seville or China oranges, boil the peel
tender and shred it fine : pare and core twenty apples,
put them in a stew pan, and as little water as possible ;
when half-done, add half a pound of sugar ; the orange-
peel and juice ; boil till pretty thick. When cold, put
it in a shallow dish, or pattypans lined with paste, to
turn out, and be eaten cold.
Prune Tart.
Give
prunes a scald, take out the stones and break
them ; put the kernels into a little cranberry-juice, with
the prunes and sugar, simmer; and when cold make a
tart of the sweetmeat.
Orange Tart.
Squeeze, pulp, and boil two Seville oranges tender,
weigh them, and double of sugar ; beat both together
to a paste, and then add the juice and pulp of the fruit,
and the size of a walnut of fresh butter, and beat all to-
gether. Choose a very shallow dish, line it with a light
puff crust, and lay the paste of orange in it. You may
ice it.
Codlin Tart.
Scald the fruit as will be directed under that arti-
cle; when ready, take off the thin skin, and lay them
whole in a dish, put a little of the water that the apples
were boiled in at bottom, strew them over with lump
sugar or fine Lisbon: when cold, put a paste round the
edges and over.


PASTRY.
181
You may wet it with white of egg, and strew sugas
over, which looks well : or cut the lid in quarters, with-
out touching the paste on the edge of the dish; and ei-
ther put the broad end downwards, and make the
point stand up, or remove the lid altogether. Pour a
good custard over it when cold ; sift sugar over.
Or line the bottom of a shallow dish with paste, lay
the apples in it, sweeten, and lay little twists of paste
over in bars.
Raspberry Tart with Cream.
Roll out some thin puff-paste, anu lay it in a patty-
pan of what size you choose; put in raspberries ; strew
over them fine sugar ; cover with a thin lid, and then
bake. Cut it open; and have ready the following mix-
ture, warm ; half a pint of cream, the yolks of two or
three eggs well beaten, and a little sugar; and when
this is added to the tart, return it to the oven for five
or 'six minutes.
Orange Tart
Line a tart-pan with thin puff paste ; put into it
orange marmalade that is made with apple jelly ; lay
bars of paste, or a croquant cover over, and bake in a
moderate oven.
Fried Patties.
Mince a bit of cold vead, and six oysters; mix with a
few crumbs of bread; salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a very
small bit of lemon-peel--add the liquor of the oysters ;
warm all in a tosser, but do not boil; let it go cold .
have ready a good puff paste, roll thin, and cut it in
round or square bits ; put soine of the above between
two of them, twist the edges to keep in the gravy, and
fry them of a fine brown.
This is a very good thing; and baked, is a fashiona-
ble dish.
Wash all patties over with egg before baking.
Oyster "Patties.
Put a fine puff-crust into small pattypans, and cover
with paste, with a bit of bread in each ; and against
they are baked have ready the following to fill with,
Q


182
PASTRY.
taking out the bread. Take off the beards of the oys-
ters, cut the other parts in small bits; put them in a
small tosser with a grate of nutmeg, the least white'
pepper and salt, a morsel of lemon peel; cut so small
that you can scarcely see it, a little cream, and a little
of the oyster liquor. Simmer a few minutes before you
fill.
Observe to put a bit of crust into all patties, to keep
them hollow while baking.
Oyster Patties, or small Pié.
As you open the oysters separate them from the lia
quor, which strain ; parboil them after taking off the
beards. Parboil sweetbreads, and cutting them in
slices, lay them and the oysters in layers, season very
lightly with salt, pepper, and mace. Then put half a
tea-cup of liquor, and the same of gravy. Bake
in a slow oven; and before you serve, put a tea-cup
of cream, a little more oyster-liquor, and a cup of
wbite gravy, all warmed but not boiled. If for patties,
the oysters should be cut in small dice, gently stewed
and seasoned as above, and pui into the paste when
ready for table.
Lobster Palties.
Make with the same seasoning, a little cream, and
the smallest bit of butter.
Podovies; or Beef Patties.
Shred under-done dressed beef with a little fat, sea-
son, with pepper, salt, and a little shallot or onion.
Make a plain paste, roll it thin, and cut in slape like an
apple puff, fill it with mince; pinch the edges, and fry
them of a nice brown. The paste should be made with
a small quantity of butter, egg, and milk.
Veal Patites.
Mince some veal that is not quite done, with a little
parsley, lemon-peel, a scrape of nutmeg; and a bit of
salt ; add a little cream and gravy just to moisten the
meat ; and if you have any ham, scrape a little, and
add to it. Do not warm it till the patties are baked.
3


PASTRY,
383
Turkey Patties.
Mince some of the white part, and with grated lem:
on, nutmeg, salt, a very little white pepper, cream, and
a very little bit of butter warmed, bll the patties.
Succet Patties.
Chop the meat of a boiled calf's foot, of which you
use the liquor for jelly, two apples, one ounce of orango
and lemon-peel candied, and some fresh peel and juice:
mix with them half a nutmeg grated, the yolk of an
egg, a spoonful of brandy, and four ounces of currants
washed and dried, Bake in small pattypans.
Pattjes resembling Mince Pies.
Chop the kidney and fat of cold veal, apple, orange
and lennon-peel candied, and fresh currants, a little
wine, two or three cloves, a little brandy, and a bit of
sugar. Bake as before.
Apple Puffs,
Pare the fruit, and either stew them in a stone jar
on a hot hearth, or bake them. When cold, mix the
pulp of the apple with sugar and lemon-peel, shred
fine, taking as little of the apple juice as you can,
Bake them in thin paste, in a quick oven ; a quarter of
an hour will do them, if small.' Orange or quince
marmalade is a great improvement. Cinnamon pound,
ed, or orange-flower water, in change.
Lemon Puffs.
Beat and sift a pound and a quarter of double-refined
sugar; grate the rind of two large lemons, and mix it
well with the sugar : then beat the whites of three
new-laid eggs a great while, add them to the sugar and
peel, and beat it for an hour ; make it up in any shape
you please, anu bake it on paper put on tin plates, in a
moderate oven. Do not remove the paper till cold,
Oiling the paper will make it come off with ease.
Cheese Puffs.
Strain cheese-curd from the whey, and beat half a
pint basin of it fine in a mortar, with a spoonful and a


PASTRY.
186
A mistake used to prevail, that venison could not be
baked too much ; but, as above directed, three or four
hours in a slow oven will be sufficient to make it ten-
der, and the flavour will be preserved. Either in
shoulder or side, the meat must be cut in pieces, and
laid with fat between, that it may be proportioned to
each person, without breaking up the pasty to find it.
Lay some pepper and salt at the bottom of the dish,
and some butter, then the meat nicely packed, that it
may be sufficiently done, but not lie hollow to harden
at the edges,
The venison bones should be boiled with some fine
old mutton; of this gravy put half a pint cold into the
dish; then lay butter on the venison, and cover, as well
as line the sides with a thick crust, but do not put one
under the meat. Keep the remainder of the gravy till
the pasty comes from the oven ; put it into the middle
by a funnel quite hot, and shake the dish to mix well.
It should be seasoned with pepper and salt.
To make a Pasty of Beef or Mutton, to cat as well as
Venison.
Bone a small rump or a piece of sirloin of beef, or a
fat loin of mutton, after hanging several days. Beat it
very well with a rolling-pin, then rub ten pounds of
meat with four ounces of sugar, and pour over it a glass
of port, and the same of vinegar. Let it lie five days
and nights ; wash and wipe the meat very dry, and sea-
son it very high with pepper, Jamaica pepper, nutmeg,
and salt. Lay it in your dish, and to ten pounds put
one pound or near of butter, spreading it over the
meat. Put a crust round the edges and cover with a
thick one, or it will be over-done before the meat be
soaked : it must be done in a slow oven,
Set the bones in a pan in the oven, with no more
water than will cover them, and one glass of port, a
little pepper and salt, that you may have a little rich
gravy to add to the pasty when drawn.
Note. Sugar gives a greater shortness, and better
flavour to meats than salt, too great a quantity of which
bardens--and it is quite as great a preservative
22


186
PASTRI
1
Potatoe pasty.
Boil, peel, and mash potatoes as fine as possible; mix
them with salt, pepper, and a good bit of butter. Make
a paste: roll it out thin like a large puff, and put in the
potatoe ; fold over one half, pinching the edges. Bake
in a moderate oven.
Cheap and excellent Custards.
Boil three pints of new milk, with a bit of lemon-peel,
a bit of cinnamon, two or three bay-leaves, and sweeten
it. Meanwhile rub down smooth, a large spoonful of
rice-flour into a cup of cold milk, and mix with it two
yolks of eggs well beaten. Take a basin of the boiling
milk and mix with the cold, and then pour that to the
boiling ; stirring it one 'way till it begins to thicken,
and is just going to boil up; and then pour it into a pan,
stir it some time, adů a large spoonful of peach-water,
two spoonfuls of brandy, or a little ratafia.
Marbles boiled in custard, or any thing likely to
burn, will, by shaking them in the sauce-pan, prevent
it from catching.
Rich Custard.
Boil a pint of milk with lemon peel and cinnamon,
mix a pint of cream, and the yolks of five eggs well
beaten; when the milk tastes of the seasoning, sweeten
it enough for the whole; pour it into the cream, stirring
it well, then give the custard a simmer till of a proper
thickness. Do not let it boil ; stir the whole time one
way; season as above. If to be extremely rich, put no
milk, but a quart of cream to the egg.
Baked Custard.
Boil one pint of cream, half a pint of milk, with
mace, cinnamon, and lemon-peel, a little of each. -
When cold, mix the yolks of three eggs; sweeten,
and make your cups or paste nearly full., Bake them
Lemon Custard.
Beat the yolks of eight eggs till they are as white as
milk; then put to them a pint of boiling water, the rinds
of two lemons grated, and the juice sweetened to your
ten minutes.


PASTRY
187
taste. Stir it on the fire till thick enough, then add a
large glass of rich wine, and half a glass of brandy; give
the whole one scald, and put in cups to be eaten cold.
Almond Custard.
Blanch and beat four ounces of almonds fine, with a
spoonful of water; beat a pint of cream with two spoon-
fuls of rose-water, and put them to the yolks of four
eggs, and as much sugar as will make it pretty sweet;
then add the almonds : stir it all over a slow fire till it is
of a proper thickness, but do not boil. Pour it into
cups.
Cheesecakes.
Strain the whey from the curd of two quarts of milk;
when rather dry, crumble it through a coarse sieve,
and mix with six ounces of fresh butter, one ounce of
pounded blanched almonds, a little orange-flower wa-
ter, half a glass of raisin-wine, a grated biscuit, four
ounces of currants, some nutmeg and cinnamon in fine
powder, and beat all the above with three eggs, and
half a pint of cream, till quite light: then' fill the pat.
typans three parts full.
A plainer sort.
Turn three quarts of milk to curd, break it, and drain
the whey ; when dry, break it in a pan, with two oun-
ces of butter, till perfectly smooth; put to it a pint and
a half of thin cream, or good milk, and add sugar, cin-
namon, nutmeg, and three ounces of currants.
Cheesecakes another way.
Mix the curd of three quarts of milk, a pound of
currants, twelve ounces of Lisbon sugar, a quarter of
an ounce of cinnamon, ditto of nutmeg, the peel of
one lemon, chopped so fine that it becomes a paste, the
yolks of eight, and whites of six eggs, a pint of scalded
cream, and a glass of brandy. Put a light thin puff-
paste in the pattypars, and three parts fill them.
Lemon Cheesecakes,
Mix four ounces of sifted lump-sugar and four ounces.


188
PASTRY.
of butter, and gently melt it ; then add the yolks of two
and the white of one egg, and the rind of three lemons
shred fine, and the juice of one and a half, one Savoy
biscuit, some blanched almonds pounded, three spoonfuls
of brandy ; mix well, and put in paste made as follows:
eight ounces of flour, six ounces of butter : two thirds of
which mix with the flour first ; then wet it with six
spoonfuls of water, and roll the remainder in,
Another way.--Boil two large lemons, or three small
ones, and after squeezing, pound them well together in
a mortar, with four ounces of loaf-sugar, the yolks of six
eggs, and eight ounces of fresh butter. Fill the patty-
pans half full.
Orange cheesecakes are done the same way, only you
must boil the peel in two or three waters to take out the
bitterness; or make them of orange marmalade well
beaten in a mortar.
Orange Cheesecakes.
When you have blanched half a pound of almonds, beat
them very fine, with orange-flower water, and half a
pound of fine sugar beaten and sifted, a pound of butter
that has been melted carefully without oihing, and which
must be nearly cold before you use it; then beat the
yolks of ten and whites of four eggs ; pound two candied
oranges, and a fresh one with the bitterness boiled out,
in a mortar, till as tender as marmalade, without any
lumps; and beat the whole together, and put into patty
pane.
Potatoe Cheesecakes.
Boil six ounces of potatoes, and four ounces of lemon-
peel ; beat the latter in a mortar, with four ounces of
sugar ; then add the potatoes, beaten, and four ounces
of butter melted in a little cream. When well mixed,
let it stand to grow cold. Put crust in pattypans, and
rather more than half All them. Bake in a quick oven
half an hour; sifting some double refined sugar on them
when going to the oven.
This quantity will make a dozen.


"VEGETABLES.
189
Almond Cheesecakes.
Blanch and pound four ounces of almonds, and a few
bitter, with a spoonful of water; then add four ounces
of sugar pounded, a spoonful of cream, and the whites of
two eggs well beaten; mix all as quick as possible ; put
into very small pattypans, and bake in a pretty warm
oven under twenty minutes.
Another way.-Blanch and pound four ounces of al-
monds, with a little orange flower or rose water then
stir in the yolks of six and whites of three eggs, well
beaten, five ounces of butter warmed, the peel of a lem-
ongrated, and a little of the juice ; sweeten with fine
Lisbon sugar. When well mixed, bake in a delicate
paste, in small pans.
Another way.-Press the whey from as much curd as
will make two dozen small ones; then put it on the back
of a sieve, and with half an ounce of butter rub it through
with the back of a spoon: put to it six yolks and three
whites of eggs, and a few bitier almonds pounded with
as much sugar as will make the curd properly sweet :
mix with it the rind of a lemon grated, and a glass of
brandy. Put a puff-paste into the pans, and ten minutes
will bake them.
1
VEGETABLES.
Obserrations on dressing Vegetables.'
Vegetables should be carefully cleaned from insects,
and nicely washed. Boil them in plenty of water, and
drain them the moment they are done enough. If over
boiled, they lose their beauty and crispness. Bad cooks
sometimes dress them with meat; which is wrong, ex-
cept carrots with boiling beef.
To boil Vegetables green.
Be sure the water boils when you put them in. Make
them hoil very fast. Do not cover, but wash them; and
if the water has not slackened, you may be sure they


VEGETABLES.
191
Some think a tea-spoonful of white powdered sugar
is an improvement. Gravy may be added; but then
there will be less of the flavor of the peas. Chop a bit
of mint, and stew in them.
To stew old Peas.
Steep them in water all night, if not fine boilers ;
otherwise only half an hour; put them into water
enough just to cover them, with a good bit of butter,
or a piece of beef or pork. Stew them very gently till
the peas are soft, and the meat is tender, if it is not salt
meat, add salt and a little pepper. Serve them round
the meat.
To dress Artichokes.
Trim a few of the outside leaves off, and cut the stalk
even. If young, half an hour will boil them. They
are better for being gathered two or three days first.
Serve them with melted butter in as many small cups
as there are artichokes, to help with each.
Artichoke Bottoms.
If dried, they must be soaked, then stewed in weak
gravy, and served with or without forcemeat in each.
Or they may be boiled milk, and served with cream
sauce; or added to ragouts, French pies, &c.
Jerusalem Artichokes
Must be taken up the moment they are done, or they
will be too soft.
They may be boiled plain, or served with white fri.
cassee-sauce.
To stew Cucumbers.
Slice them thick : or halve and divide them into two
lengths; strew some salt and pepper, and sliced onions :
add a little broth, or a bit of butter. Simmer very
slowly; and before serving, if no butter was ip before,
put some, and a little flour ; or if there was butter in,
only a little flour, unless it wants richness.
Anothev way.-Slice the onions, and cut the cucum-
bers large ; flour them, and fry them in some butter ;
then pour on some good broth or gravy, and stew them
till done enough. Skim off the fat.


192
VEGETABLES.
.
!
To stew. Onions.
Peel six large onions; fry gently of a fine brown, but
do not blacken them : then put them into a small stew.
pan, with a little weak gravy, pepper, and salt ; cover
and stew two hours gently. They should be lightly
floured at first.
Roast Onions
Should be done with all the skins on. They eat well
alone, with only salt and cold butter ; or with roasted
potatoes, or with beet-roots.
To stew Celery.
Wash six heads, and strip off their outer leaves ;
either halve, or leave them whole, according to their
size ; cut into lengths of four inches. Put them into a
stew-pan with a cup of broth, or weak white gravy,
stew till tender ; then add two spoonfuls of cream, and
a little flour and butter seasoned with pepper, salt, and
nutmeg, and simmer all together.
To boil Cauliflowers.
Choose those that are close and white. Cut off the
green leaves, and look carefully that there are no cat,
erpillars about the stalk. Soak an hour in cold water :
then boil them in milk and water ; and take care to
skim the saucepan, that not the least foulness may fall
on the flower. It must be served very white, and ra.
ther crimp.
Cauliflower in white Sauce.
Half boil it ; then cut it into handsome pieces, and
lay them in a stew-pan with a little broth, a bit of mace,
a little salt, and a dust of white pepper ; simmer half
an hour : then put a little cream, butter and flour ;
shake, and simmer a few minutes, and serve!
To dress Cauliflowers and Parmesan.
Boil a cauliflower ; drain it on a sieve, and cut the
stalk so that the flower will stand upright about two
inches above the dish. Put it into a stew-pan, with a
little white sauce; let it stew till done enough, which
will be but a few minutes, then dish it with the sauce


VEGETABLES.
193
1
round, and put Parmesan grated over it. Brown it with
á salamander.
To dress Brocoli.
Cut the head with short stalks, and pare the tough
skin off them. Tie the small slmots into bunches, and
boil them a shorter time than the heads. Some salt must
be put into the water. Serve with or without toast.
Spinach
Requires great care in washing and picking it. When
that is done, throw it into a saucepan that will just hold
it, sprinkle it with a little salt, and cover close. The
pan must be set on the fire, and well shaken. When
done, beat the spinach well with a small bit of butter ;
it must come to table pretty dry; and looks well if pres-
sed into a tin mould in the form of a large leaf, which
is sold at the the tin-shops. A spoonful of cream is an
improvement.
To dress Beans.
Boil tender, with a bunch of parsley, which must be
chopped to serve with them. Bacon or pickled pork
must be served to eat with, but not boiled with them.
Fricasseed Windsor Beans.
When grown large, but not mealy, boil, blanch, and
Jay them in a white sauce ready hot: just heat them
through in it, and serve. If any are not of fine green,
do not use them for this dish.
French Beans.
String, and cut them into four or eight; the last looks
best. Lay them in salt and water; and when the sauce-
pap boils, put them in with some salt. As soon as they
are done, serve them immediately, to preserve the green
colour.
Or when half-done, drain the water off, and put them
into two spoonfuls of broth strained; and add a little
cream, butter, and flour, to finish doing them.
To stew red Cabbage.
Slice a small, or half a large, red cabbage; wash and
R


194
VEGETABLES.
put it into a saucepan with pepper, salt, no water but
what hangs about it, and a piece of butter. Stew till
quite tender; and when going to serve, add two or three
spoonfuls of vinegar, and give one boil over the fire.
Serve it for cold meat, or with sausages on it.
Another way.Shred the cabbage, wash it; and put
it over a slow fire, with slices of onion, pepper, and salt,
and a little plain gravy. When quite tender and a few
minutes before serving, add a bit of butter rubbed with
Hour, and two or three spoonfuls of vinegar, and boil up.
Another.--Cut the cabbage very thin; and put it into
the stew-pan with a small slice of ham, and half an ounce
of butter, at the bottom, half a pint of broth, and a gill
of vinegar. Let it stew, covered three hours. When
it is very tender, add a litte more broth, salt, pepper,
and a table-spoonful of pounded sugar. Mix these well,
and boil them till the liquor is wasted; then put it into
the dish, and lay fried sausages on it.
Mushrooms.
The cook should be perfectly acquainted with the dif-
ferent sorts of things called by this name by ignorant peo
ple, as the death of many persons has been occasioned
by carelessly usiug the poisonous kinds.
The eatable mushrooms first appear very small, and
of a round form, on a little stalk. They grow very fast,
and the upper part and stalk are white. As the size
increases, the under part gradually opens, and shows a
fringed fur of a very fine salmon-colour, which continues
more or less till the mushroom has gained some size, and
then turns to a dark brown. These marks should be at:
tended to, and likewise whether the skio can be easily
parted from the edges and middle. Those that have a
white or yellow fur should be carefully avoided, though
many of them have the same smell, (but not so strong.)
as the right sort.
To stew Mushrooms.
The large buttons are best, and the small flaps while
the fur is still red. Rub the large buttons with salt and
a bit of flannel ; cut out the fur, and take off the skin


VEGETABLES.
193
from the others. Sprinkle them with salt, and put inta
a stew-pan with some pepper-corns; simmer slowly till
done: then put a small bit of butter and flour, and two
spoonfuls of cream; give them one boil, and serve with
sippets of bread.
To stew Sorrel for Fricandeau and roast Meat.
Wash the sorrel ; and put it into a silver vessel, or
stone jar, with no more water than hangs to the leavesi
Simmer it as slow as you can; and when done enough,
put a bit of butter, and beat it well,
French Salad,
Chop three anchovies, a shallot, and some parsley,
small; put them into a bowl with two table-spoonfuls
of vinegar, one of oil, a little mustard and salt." When
well mix-d, add by degrees some cold roast or boiled
meat in very thin slices; put in a few at a time, not ex-
ceeding two or three inches long. Shake them in the
seasoning, and then put more ; cover the bowl close,
and let the salad be prepared three hours before it is
to be eaten, Garnish with parsley, and a few slices of
the fat,
Lobster Salad.
Make a salad ; and put some of the red part of the
lobster to it, cut. This forms a pretty contrast to the
white and green of the vegetables. Do not put much
oil, as shell-fish absorb the sharpness of vinegar. Serve
in a dish, not a bowl,
To boil Potatoes.
Set them on a fire, without paring them, in cold water,
let them half-boil; then throw some salt in, and a pint
of cold water, and let them boil again till almost done,
Pour off the water ; and put a clean cloth over them,
and then the saucepan-cover, and set them by the fire
to steam till ready. Many persons prefer steamers,
Potatoes look best when the skin is peeled, not cut.
Do new potatoes the same; but be careful they are
taken off in time, or they will be watery. Before dres
sing, rub off the skin with a cloth and salt, and then
wash,


196
VEGETABLES.
To broil Potatoes.
Parboil, then slice and broil them. Or parboil, and
then set them whole on the gridiron over a very slow
fire ; and when thoroughly done, send them up with
their skins on. This last way is practised in many Irish
families.
To roast Potatoes.
Half-boil, take off the thin peel, and roast them of a
beautiful brown.
To fry Potatoes.
Take the skin off raw potatoes, slice, and fry them,
either in butter or thin batter.
To mash potatoes.
Boil the potatoes, peel them, and break them to paste ;
then to two pounds of them, add a quarter of a pint of
milk, a little salt, and two ounces of butter, and stir it all
well over the fire. Either serve them in this manner ;
or place them on the dish in a form, and then brown
the top with a salamander; or in scallops.
Carrots
Require a good deal of boiling; when young, wipe off
the skin after they are boiled; when old, boil them with
the salt meat, and scrape them first.
To stew Carrots.
Half-boil, then nicely scrape, and slice them into a
stew pan. Put to them half a tea-cupful of any weak
broth, some pepper and salt, and half a cupful of cream:
simmer them till they are very tender, but not broken.
Before serving, rub a very little flour; with a bit of but-
ter, and warm up with them. If approved, chopped
parsley may be added ten minutes before served.
To mash parsneps.
Boil them tender ; scrape, then mash them into a
stew-pan with a little cream, a good piece of butter, and
pepper and salt.
Fricassee of parsneps.
Boil in milk till they are soft. Then cut them length-


VEGETABLES.
197
ways into bits two or three inches long; and simmer in
# white sauce, made of two spoonfuls of broth, a bit of
mace, half a cupful of cream, a bit of butter, and somo
four, pepper, and salt.
Beet-roots
Make a very pleasant addition to winter salad; of which
they may agreeably form a full half, instead of being
only used to ornament it. This root is cooling, and
very wholesome.
It is extremely good, boiled and sliced with a small-
quantity of onion ; or stew ed with whole onions, large
pr small as follows.
Boil the beet tender with the skin on : slice it into a
stew-pan with a little broth, and a spoonful of vinegar;
simmer till the gravy is tinged with the colour; then
put it into a small dish; and make a round of the button-
anions, first boiled till tender; take off the skin just be:
fore serving, and mind they are quite hot, and clear.
Or roast three large onions, and peel off the outer
skins till they look clear; and serve the beet-root stew
ed round them.
If beet-root is in the least broen before dreseed, it
parts with its colour, and looks ill.
To preserve sereral Vegetables to eat in the H’inter.
For French Beans, pick them young, and throw into
a little wooden keg a layer of them three inches deep;
then sprinkle them with salt, put another layer of beans,
and do the same as high as you think proper, alternate-
ly with salt, but not too much of this. Lay over thein
a plate, or cover of wood, that will go into the key,
and put a heavy stone on it. A pickle will rise frem
the beans and salt. If they are too salt, the soaking
and boiling will not be sufficient to make them pleasant
to the taste. When they are to be eaten, cut, soak, ard,
boil them as if fresh.
Çarrots, Parsnips, and Beet-roots, should be kept in
layers of dry sand for winter use; and neither they or
potatoes should be cleared from the earth. Potatoes
should be carefully kept from trost,
Store Onion s keep best hung up in a dry cold room
R


198
PICKLES.
Parsley should be cut close to the stalks; and dried in
a warm room, or on tins in a very cool oven : it preserves
its flavour and colour, and is very useful in winter.
Artichoké-bottoms, slowly dried, should be kept in pa-
per bags ; and Truffles, Morels, and Lemon-peel, &c. in
a dry place ticketed.
Small close Cabbages, laid on a stone floor before the
frost sets in, will blanch and be very fine, after many
weeks' keeping.
PICKLES.
Rules to be observed with Pickles.
Keep them closely covered ; and have a wooden
spoon, with holes, tied to each jar ; all metal being im-
proper. They should be well kept from the air, the
large jars be seldom opened ; and small ones, for the
different pickles in use, should be kept for common sup-
ply, into which' what is not eaten may be returned, and
the top closely covered.
Acids dissolve the lead that is in the tinning of sauce-
pans. When necessary to boil of vinegar, do it in a
stone jar, on the hot hearth. Pickles should never be
put into glazed jars, as salt and vinegar penetrate the
glaze, which is poisonous.
Lemon Piekle.
Wipe six lemons, cut each into eight pieces : put on
them a pound of salt, six large cloves of garlick, two
ounces of horse-radish sliced thin, likewise of cloves,
mace, nutmeg, and Cayenne, a quarter of an ounce
each, and two ounces of flour of mustard ; to these put
two quarts of vinegar. Boil a quarter of an hour in a
well tinned saucepan ; or, which is better, do it in a
strong jar, in a kettle of boiling water ; or set the jar
on the hot hearth till done. Set the jar by, and stir it
daily for six weeks ; keep the jar close covered. Put
it into small bottles,
Indian Pickle.
Lay a pound of white ginger in water one night ; then
scrape, slice, and lay it in salt in a pan till the other
ingredients are ready,


PICKLES.
199
Peel, slice, and salt a pound of garlick three days'
then put it in the sun to dry.
Salt and dry long pep-
per in the same way.
Prepare various sorts of vegetables thus :
Quarter small white cabbages, salt them three days,
squeeze, and set them in the sun to dry.
Cauliflowers cut in their branches; take off the green
from radishes : cut celery in three-inch lengths ; ditte
young French beans whole, likewise the shoots of elder,
which will look like bamboo. Apples and cucumbers,
choose of the least seedy sort; cut them in slices, or
quarters if not too large. All must be salted, drained,
and dried in the sun, except the latter; over which you
must pour boiling vinegar, and in twelve hours drain
them, but no sak must be used.
Put the spice, garlick, a quarter of a pound of mus-
tard seed, and as much vinegar as you think enough
for the quantity you are to pickle, into a large stone
jar, and one ounce of turmeric, to be ready against the
vegetables shall be dried. When they are ready, ob-
serve the following directions : Put some of them into
a two quart stone jar, and pour over them one quart of
boiling vinegar. Next day take out those vegetables ;
and when drained. put them into a large stock jar, and
boiling the vinegar, pour it over some more of the vege
etables, let them lie a night and do as above. Thus
proceed till you have cleansed each set from the dust
which must inevitably fall on them by being so long in
doing : then, to every gallon of vinegar put two ounces
of flour of mustard, mixing, by degrees, with a little of
it boiling hot. The whole of the vinegar should have
been previously scalded, but set to be cool before it was
put to the spice. Stop the jar tight.
This pickle will not be ready for a year; but you may
make a small jar for eating in a fortnight, only by give
ing the cauliflower one scald in water, after salling and
drying as above, but without the preparative vinegar ;
then pour the vinegar, that has the spice and garlick
boiling hot over. If at any time it be found that the
vegetables have not swelled properly ; boiling the pica
kle, and pouring it over them hot, will plump them.


PICKLES,
Melon Mangoes.
There is a particular sort for this purpose, which the
gardeners know. Cut a small square piece out of one
side, and through that take out the seeds, and mix with:
them mustard-seeds and shred garlick ; stuff the melon
as full as the space will allow, and replace the square
piece. Bind it up with a small new packthread. Boil
a good quantity of vinegar, to allow for wasting, with
peppers, salt, ginger, and pour boiling hot over the.
mangoes four successive days : the last, put flour of
mustard, and scraped horse-radish, into the vinegar
just as it boils up. Stop close. Observe that there is
plenty of vinegar. All pickles are spoiled if not well
covered. Mangoes should be done soon after they are
gathered. Large cucumbers, called green turley, pre..
pared as mangoes, are excellent, and come sooner into
eating.
Mark, the greater number of times boiling vinegar
is poured over either sort, the sooner it will be ready.
Pickled Lemons.
They should be small, and with thick rinds ; rub
them with a piece of flannel ; then slit them half down
in four quarters, but nou through to the pulp; fill the
slits with salt hard pressed in, set them upright in a
pan for four or five days, until the salt melts ; tura
them thrice a day in their own liquor, until tender;
make enough pickle to cover them, of rape-vinegar,
the brine of the lemons, Jamaica pepper, and ginger;
boil and skim it; when cold, put it to the lemons, with
two ounces of mustard-seed, and two cloves of garlick
to six lemons. When the lemons are used, the pickle
will be useful in fish or other sauces.,
Olives
Are of three kinds, Italian, Spanish, and French, of
different sizes and flavour ; each sort should be firm,
though some are most fleshy.
Preserve them from the air.
Pickled Onions.
hind the month of September, choose the small white


PICKLES.
201
round onions, take off the brown skin, have ready a.
very nice tin stew-pan of boiling water, throw in as
many onions as will cover the top ; as soon as they look
clear on the outside, take them up as quick as possible
with a slice, and lay them on a clean cloth ; cover them
close with another, and scald some more, and so on.
Let them lie to be cold, then put them in a jar, or glass
wide-mouth bottles, and pour over them the best white
wine vinegar, just hot, but not boiling. When cold,
cover them. Should the outer skin shrivel, peel it off.
They must look quite clear.
To pickle Cucumbers and Onions sliced.
Cut them in slices, and sprinkle salt over them ; next
day drain them for five or six hours; then put them into
à stone jar, pour boiling vinegar over them, and keep
them in a warm place. The slices should be thick.
Repeat the boiling vinegar, and stop them up again
instantly; and so on till green : the last time put pep-
per and ginger. Keep it in small stone jars.
To pickle young Cucumbers.
Choose nice young gerkins, spread them on dishes,
salt them and let them lie a week-drain them, and,
putting them in a jar, pour boiling vinegar over them.
Set them near the fire, covered with plenty of vine..
leaves"; if they do not become a tolerably good green,
pour the vinegar into another jar, set it over the hot
hearth, and when it boils, pour it over them again,
covering with fresh leaves ; and thus do till they are of
as good a colour as you wish :--but as it is no known
that the very fine green pickles are made so by using
brass or bell-metal vessels, which, when vinegar is put
into them, become highly poisonous, few people like to
eat them.
To pickle Walnuts.
When they will bear a pin to go into them, put a brine
of salt and water boiled, and strong enough to bear an
egg on them, being quite cold first. It must be well
skimmed while boiling. Let them soak six days ; then
change the brine, let them stand six more : then drain
1


-202
PICKLES.
them, and pour over them in a jar a pickle of the best.
white-wine vinegar, with a good quantity of pepper, pi.
mento, ginger, mace, cloves, mustard-seed, and horse.
radish ; all boiled together, but cold. To every hundred
of walnuts put six spoonfuls of mustard-seed, and two
or three heads of garlick or shallot, but the latter is
least strong.
Thus doue, they will be good for several years, if
close covered. The air will soften them. They will
not be fit to eat under six months.
The pickle will serve as good ketchup, when the wala
nuts are used.
Another way.--Put them into a jar, cover them with
the best vinegar cold, let them stand four months ; then
pour off the pickle, and boil as much fresh vinegar as
will cover the walnuts, adding to every three quarts of
vinegar one quarter-pound of best Durham mustard, a
stick of horse-radish sliced, one half-ounce of black
pepper, one half ounce of cloves, one ounce of ginger,
one half ounce of allspice; and a good handful of salt
pour the whole, boiling hot, upon the walnuts, and
cover them close ; they will be fit for use in three or
four months. You may add two ounces of garlick, or
shallot, but not boiled in the vinegar.
Of the pickle in which the walnuts stood for the first
four mouths, you may make excellent ketchup.
An eçcellent way to pickle Mushrooms, to preserve the
favour.
Buttons must be rubbed with a bit of flannel and salt,
and from the larger, take out the red inside ; for when
they are black they will not do, being too old. Throw.
a little salt over, and put them into a stew-pan with
some mace and pepper ; as the liquor comes out, shake
them well, and kee: them over a gentle fire till all of
it be dried into the m again : then put as much vinegar
into the pan as will cover them, give it one warm, and
turn all into a glass or stone jar. They will keep two.
years, and are delicious.


PICKLES.
203
To pickle red Cabbage.
Slice it into a colander, and sprinkle each layer with
salt: let it drain two days, then put it into a jar, and
pour boiling vinegar enough to cover, and put a few
slices of red beet-root. Observe to choose the purple
red cabbage. Those who like the flavour of spice will
boil it with the vinegar. Cauliflower cut in branches,
and thrown in after being salted, will look of a beautiful
red.
Mushroom Ketchup.
Take the largest broad mushrooms, break them into
an earthen pab. strew salt over, and stir them now and
then for three days. Then let them stand for twelve,
till there is a thick scum over ; strain, and boil the li-
quor with Jamaica and black peppers, mace, ginger, a
clove or two, and some mustard-seed. When cola
bottle it, and tie a bladder over the cork ; in three
months boil it again with some fresh spice, and it will,
then keep a twelvemonth.
Mushroom Ketchup, another way.
Take a stew-pan full of the large flap mushrooms,
that are not worm-eaten, and the skins and fringe of
those you have pickled ; throw a handful of salt among
them, and set them by a slow fire ; they will produce
a great deal of liquor which you must strain ; and put
to it four ounces of shallots, two cloves of garlick, a
good deal of pepper, ginger, mace, cloves, and a few
bay-leaves-boil and skin very well. When cold, cork
close. In two months boil it up again with a little fresh
spice, and a stick of horse-radish, and it will then keep
the year; which mushroom ketchup rarely does, if not
boiled a second time.
Walnut Ketchup of the finest sort.
Boil or simmer a gallon of the expressed juice of wal.
nuts when they are tender, and skim it well, then put
in two pounds of anchovies, bones and liquor, ditto of
shallots, one ounce of cloves, ditto of mace, ditto of
pepper, and one clove of garlick. Let all simmer till
the shallots sink : then put the liquor into a pan
till


204
PICKLES
cold ; bottle, and divide the spice to each. Cork close-
ly, and tie a bladder over.
It will keep twenty years, and is not good the first. ·
Be very careful to express the juice at home ; for it is
rarely unadulterated, if bought.
Some people make liquor off the outside shell when
the nut is ripe; but neither the flavour nor colour is
then so fine.
Sour Krout.
Let she cabbages be full grown, and quite hard, be-
fore they are used, and take those of the closest and
firmest texture. Cut them into slices about an inch
thick, opening them a little that they may receive the
salt more effectually. Rub a good deal of salt amongst
them, then lay them into a large pan, and sprinkle
more salt over them. Let them remain twenty-four
hours, turning them over four or five times, that every
part may equally receive the salt. The next day put
the cabbage into a tub or large jar, pressing it down
well, and then pour over it a pickle made of a pint of
salt to a quart of water. This pickle must be poured
on boiling, and care must be taken that the cabbage
shall be entirely covered with it. Let, it stand thus
twenty-four hours longer, when it will have shrunk
nearly a third; then take the cabbage out, and put it
into a fresh tub, or jar, pressing it down well as be-
fore, and pour over it a pickle made as follows. To
one quart of the salt and water pickle which had been
used the day before, put three quarts of vinegar, four
ounces of allspice, and two ounces of caraway seeds.
This must be poured on cold, so as to cover the cab-
bage completely. Let it stand one day loosely cover-
ed, and then let it be stopped down quite close.
To keep Capers.
Add fresh vinegar that has been scalded, and become
cold-and tie them close, to keep out the air, which
makes them soft.


206
SWEET DISHES.
A Tansey,
Beat seven eggs, yolks and whites separately; add a
pint of cream, near the same of spiuach-juice, and a
little tansey-juice gained by pounding in a stone mor-
tar, a quarter of a pound of Naples biscuit, sugar to taste,
a glass of white wine, and some nutmeg. Set all in a
saucepan, just to thicken, over the fire; then put it into
a dish, lined with paste, to turn out, and bake it.
Puits d'Amour.
Cut a fine rich puff-paste rolled thin, with tin shapes
made on purpose, one size less than another, in a pyra.
midical form, and lay them so: then bake in a moderate
oven, that the paste may be done sufficiently, but very
pale. Lay different-coloured sweetmeats on the edges.
A very nice dish of Macaroni dressed sweet.
Boil two ounces in a pint of milk, with a bit of lem-
on peel, and a good bit of cinnamon, till the pipes are
swelled to their utmost size without breaking. Lay
them on a custard-dish, and pour a custard over them
hot. Serve cold.
Floating Island.
Mix three half pints of thin cream with a quarter of
a pint of raisin wine, a little lemon-juice, orange-flower
water, and sugar: put into a dish for the middle of the
table, and put on the cream a froth, as will be directed
in page 215, which may be made of raspberry or cur-
rant-jelly.
Another way.-Scald a codlin hefore it be ripe, or any
sharp apple ; pulp it through a sieve. Beat the whites
of two eggs with sugar, and a spoonful of orange flower
water; mix in by degrees the pulp, and beat all togeth-
er until you have a large quantity of froth ; serve it on
a raspberry-cream ; or you may colour the froth with
beetroot, raspberry, currant-jelly, and set it on a white
cream, having given it the flavour of lemon, sugar, and
wine, as above; or put the froth on a custard.
Flummery,
Put three large handfuls of very small white oatmeal


SWEET DISHES,
to steep a day and night in cold water; then pour it off,
clear, and add as much more water, and let it stand the
same time. Strain it through a fine hair sieve, and
boil it till it be as thick as hasty pudding; stirring it
well all the time. When first strained, put to it one
large spoonful of white sugar, and two of orange-flow-
er water. Pour it into shallow dishes, and serve to eat
with wine, cider, milk or cream or sugar. It is very
good.
Dutch Flummery.
Boil two ounces of jsinglass in three half pints of wa-
ter, very gently, half an hour; add a pint of white wine,
the juice of three, and the thin rind of one lemon, and
rub a few lumps of sugar on another lemon to obtain
the essence, and with them add as much more sugar as
shall make it sweet enough, and having beaten the
yolks of seven eggs, give them and the above, when
mixed, one scald; stir all the time, and pour it into a
basin ; stir it till half-cold; then let it settle, and put it
into a melon shape.
Rice Flummery.
Boil with a pint of new milk, a bit of lemon-peel
and cinnamon; mix with a little cold milk as much rice
flour as will make the whole of a good consistence,
sweeten, and add a spoon of peach-water, or a bitter
almond beaten; boil it; observing it do not burn; pour
it into a shape or pint basin, taking out the spice. When
cold, turn the flummery into a dish, and serve with
cream, milk, or custard round: or put a tea-cupful of
cream into half a pint of new milk, a glass of white.
wine, half a lemon squeezed ; and sugar.
Firmity.
To a quart of ready boiled wheat, put by degrees.
two quarts of new milk, breaking the jelly, and then
four ounces of currants picked clean, and washed ; stir.
them and boil till they are done. Beat the yolks of
three eggs, and a little nutmeg, with two or three
spoonfuls of milk; add this to the wheat; stir them to-
gether while over the fire; then sweeten, and serve
sold in a deep dish. Some persons like it best warm


208
SWEET DISHES,
Curts and Cream.
Put three or four pints of milk into a pan a little warm,
and then add rennet or gallino. · When the curd is come
lade it with a saucer into an earthen shape, perforated,
of any form you please. Fill it up as the whey drains
off, without breaking or pressing the curd. If turned
only two hours before wanted, it is very light; but those
who like it harder, may have it so, by making it earlier,
and squeezing it. Cream, milk, or a whip of cream,
sugar, wine, and lemon, to be put in the dish, or into a
glass bowl, to serve with the curd.
Another way.--To four quarts of new milk warmed,
put from a pint to a quart of buttermilk strained, ac-
cording to its sourness; keep the pan covered until the
curd be of firmness to cut three or four times across
with a saucer, as the whey leaves it : put it into a shape,
and fill up until it be solid enough to take the form
Serve with cream plain or mixed with sugar, wine, and
lemon.
A Curd Star.
Set a quart of new milk upon the fire with two or
three blades of mace; and when ready to boil, put to
it the yolks and whites of nine eggs well beaten, and as
much salt as will lie upon a small knife's point. Let it
boil till the whey is clear; then drain it in a thin cloth,
or hair sieve ; season it with sugar, and a little civna-
mon, rose-water, orange-flower water, or white wine,
to your taste : and put into a star form, or any other.
Let it stand some hours before you turn it into a dish :
then put round it thick cream or custard.
Blanc-mange or Blamange.
Boil two ounces of isinglass in three half-pints of water
half an hour ; strain it into a pint and a half of cream,
sweeten it, and add some peach water, or a few bitter
almonds, let it boil once up, and put into what forms you
please. If not to be very stiff, a little less isinglass will
do. Observe to let the blamange settle before you turn
it into the forins, or the blacks will remain at the bot-
tom of them, and be on the top of the blamange when
taken out of the moulds:


SWEET DISHES.
211
The dish ; when cold, strew white pounded sugar over
and brown it with a salamander,
Another way. Make a rich custard without sugar,
boiling lemon-peel in it. When cold, sift a good deal
of sugar over the whole, and brown the top with a sala
mander.
Sack Cream.
Boil a pint of raw cream, the yolk of an egg well
beaten, two or three spoonfuls of white wine, sugar, and
lemon-peel ; stir it over a gentle fire till it is as thick
as rich cream, and afterwards till cold ; then serve it in
glasses, with long pieces of dry toast.
Brandy Cream.
Boil two dozen of almonds blanched, and pounded bit-
ter almonds, in a little milk. When cold, add to it the
yolks of five eggs beaten well in a little cream, sweeten,
and put to it two glasses of the best brandy; and when
well mixed, pour to it a quart of thin cream ; set it over
the fire, but do not let it boil: stir it one way till it
thickens, then pour into cups or low glasses.
When cold it will be ready. A ratafia-drop may be
put in each if you choose it. If you wish it to keep,
scald the cream previously.
Ratafia. Cream.
Boil three or four laurel, peach, or nectarine leaves,
in a full pint of cream; strain it, and when cold, add the
yolks of three eggs beaten and strained, sugar, and a
large spoonful of brandy stirred quick into it. Scald till
thick, stirring it all the time.
Another way.--Mix half a quarter of a pint of ratafia,
the same quantity of mountain wine, the juice of two
or three lemons, a pint of rich cream ; and as much su-
gar as will make it pleasantly-flavoured. Beat it with
a whisk, and put it into glasses. This cream will keep
eight or ten days.
Lemon Cream.
Take a pint of thick cream, and put to it the yolks
of two egzs well beaten, four ounces of fine sugar, and
the thin rind of a lemon ; boil it up, then stir it tiltale


212
SWEET DISHES.
most cold; put the juice of a lemon in a dish, or bowls,
and pour the cream upon it, stirring it till quite cold,
Yellow Lemon-cream without Cream.
Pare four lemons very thin into twelve large spoonfuls.
of water, and squeeze the juice on seven ounces of finely.
pounded-sugar; beat the yolks of nine eggs well; add
the peels and juice beaten together for some time; then
strain it through a flannel into a silver or very nice
block-tin saucepan; set it over a gentle fire, and stir it
one way till pretty, thick, and scalding-hota: but not
boiling, or it will curdle. Pour it into jelly-glasses. A.
few lumps of sugar should be rubbed hard on the lemons.
before they are pared, or after, as the peel will be so thin.
as not to take all the essence, and the sugar will attract
it, and give a better colour and flavour.
White Lemon-cream.
Is made the same as the above ; only put the whites of.
the eggs in lieu of the yolks ; whisking it extremely well
to froth.
Imperial Cream,
Boil a quart of cream with the thin ripd of a lemon,
then stir it till nearly cold ; have ready in a dish or bowl,
that you are to serve in, the juice of three lemons strain-
ed with as much sugar as wili sweeten the cream Lwhich,
pour into the dish from a large tea-pot, holding it high,
and moving it about to mix with the juice. It should be
made at least six hours before it be served, and will be
still better if a day.
Almond Crean.
Beat four ounces of sweet almonds, and a few bitter,
in a mortar, with a tea-spoonful of water to prevent
oiling, both having been blanched. Put the paste to
a quart of cream, and add the juice of three lemons
sweetened ; beat it up with a whisk to a froth, which
take off on the shallow part of a sieve; fill glasses with
some of the liquor and the froth.
Snow Cream.
But to a quart.of cream the whites of three eggs.


SWEET DISHES.
2 13
well beaten, four spoonfuls of sweet wine, sugar to your
taste, and a bit of lemon-peel ; whip it to a froth, re-
move the peel, and serve in a dish.
Coffee-cream, much admired:
Boil a calf's foot in water till it wastes to a pint ofjelly,
clear of sediment and fat. Make a tea-cup of very strong
coffee; clear it with a bit of isinglass to be perfectly
bright; pour it to the jelly, and add a pint of very good
cream, and as much fine Lisbon sugar as is pleasant;
give one boil up, and pour into the dish.
It should jelly, but not be stiff. Observe that your
coffee be fresh.
Chocolate Cream.
Scrape into one quart of thick cream, one ounce of the
best chocolate, and a quarter of a pound of sugar; boil
and mill it; when quite smooth, take it off, and leave it
to be cold ; then add the whites of nine eggs. Whisk,
and take up the froth on sieves, as others are done; and
serve the froth in glasses, to rise above some of the
cream.
Codlin Cream.
Pare and core twenty good codlins ; beat them in a
mortar with a pint of cream ; strain it into a dish, and
put sugar, bread-crumbs, and a glass of wine to it. Stir
it well.
Excellent Orange Cream.
Boil the rind of a Seville orange very tender; beat it
fine in a mortar, put it to a spoonful of the best brandy,
the juice of a Seville orange, four ounces of loaf sugar,
and the yolks of four eggs; beat all together for ten min-
utes, then, by gentle degrees, pour in a pint of boiling
cream, beat till cold, put into custard-cups set into a
deep dish of boiling water, and let them stand till cold
again. Put at the top small strips of orange-paring, cut
thin, or preserved chips.
Raspberry Cream.
Mash the fruit gently, and let them drain, then sprinklo
a little sugar over, and that will produce more juice,


214
SWEET DISHES.
then put the juice to some cream, and sweeten it, after
which, if you choose to lower it with some milk, it wilt
not curdle, which it would, if put to the milk before the
cream, but it is best made of raspberry-jelly instead of
jam, when the fresh fruit cannot be obtained.
Another way.--Boil one ounce of isinglass-shavings in
three pints of cream and new milk mixed, for fifteen
minutes, or until the former bé melted : strain it through
a hair-sieve into a basin, when cool put about half a pint
of raspberry-juice, or syrup, to the milk and cream;stir
it till well incorporated, sweeten and add a glass of bran-
dy, whisk it about till three parts cold ; then put it into
a mould till quite cold.' In summer, use the fresh juice,
in winter syrup of, raspberries.,
Spanish Cream..
Beat the yolks of eight eggs with a wooden spoon or a
whisk, sweeten them a good deal, and put to them a stick
of cinnamon, a pint of rich cream, three quarters of a pint
of spinach-juice, set it over a gentle stove, and stir it
one way constantly till it is as thick as a hasty pudding.
Put into a custard dish some Napkes biscuits, or preserv-
ed orange, in long slices, and pour the mixture over
them. It is to be eaten cold, and in a dish.either for
supper or for a second course.
Pistachio Creani
Blanch four ounces of pistachio nuts; beat them fine
with a little rose-water, and add the paste to a pint of
cream ; sweeten, let it just boil, and put it into glasses.,
Clouted Cream.
String four blades of mace on a thread; put them on
a gill of new milk, and six spoonfuls of rose-water, sim-
mer a few minutes, then by degrees stir this liquor
strained into the yolks of two new eggs well beaten.
Stir the whole into a quart of very good cream, and
set it over the fire; stir it till hot, but not boiling hot ;
pour it into a deep dish, and let it stand twenty-four
hours. Serve it in a cream dish, to cat with fruits.,
Many people prefer it without any favour but that she


SWEET DISHES.
215
team, in which case use a quart of new milk and the
cream, or do it as the Devonshire scalded cream.
When done enough, a round mark will appear on the
surface of the cream, the size of the bottom of the pan
it is done in, which in the country they call the ring;
and when that is seen, remove the pan from the fire.
A Froth to set on Cream, Custard, er Trifle, which looks
and eats well.
Sweeten half a pound of the pulp of damsons, or any
other sort of scalded fruit, put to it the whites of four
egys beaten, and beat the pulp with them until it will
stand as high as you choose ; and being put on the
cream, &c. with a spoon, it will take any form : it
should be rough, to imitate a rock.
A Carmel Cover for Sweeimeats.
Dissolve eight ounces of double-refined sugar in
three or four spoonfuls of water, and three or four
drops of lemon juice; then put it into a copper untin-
ned skillet; when it boils to be thick, dip the handle
of a spoon in it, and put that into a pint basin of water,
squeeze the sugar from the spoon into it, and so on till
you have all the sugar. Take a bit out of the water,
and if it snaps and is brittle when cold, it is done enough;
but only let it be three parts cold, then pour the water
from the sugar, and having a copper form oiled well,
run the sugar on it, in the manner of a maze, and when
cold you may put it on the dish it is to cover : but if on
trial the sugar is not brittle, pour off the water, and
return it into the skillet, and boil it again. It should
look thick like treacle, but of a bright light gold colour.
It is a most elegant cover.
Calf's Feet Jelly.
Boil two feet in two quarts and a pint of water till
the feet are broken and the water half wasted; strain
it, and when cold, take off the fat, and remove the
jelly from the sediment ; then put it into a saucepan,
with sugar, raisin wine, lemon juice to your taste, and
some lemon peel. When the favour is rich, put to it


218
SWEET DISHES.
the whites of five eggs well beaten, and their shells
broken. Set the saucepan on the fire, but do not stir
the jelly after it begins to warm. Let it boil twenty
minutes after it rises to a head ; then pour it through
a flannel jelly-bag, first dipping the bag in hot water to
prevent waste, and squeezing it quite dry. Run the
jelly through and through until clear ; then put it into
glasses or forms.
The following mode will greatly facilitate the clear-
ing of jelly. When the mixture has boiled twenty mi-
nutes, throw in a tea-cupful of cold water, let it boil
five minutes longer; then take the saucepan off the fire
covered close, and keep it half an hour; after which
it will be so clear as to need only once running through
the bag, and much waste will be saved.
Observe, feet for all jellies are boiled so long by the
people who sell them, that they are less nutrtious : they
should only be scalded to take off the hair. The li-
quor will require greater care in removing the fat, but
the jelly will be far stronger, and of course allow more
water. Note : jelly is equally good made of cow-heels
nicely cleaned ; and as they bear a less price than those
of calves, and make a stronger jelly, this observation
may be useful.
Another way.-Boil four quarts of water with three
calf's feet, or two cow-heels, that have been only scald.
ed, till half wasted : take the jelly from the fat and se-
diment: mix with it the juice of a Seville orange and
twelve lemons, the peel of three ditto, the whites and
shells of twelve eggs, brown sugar to taste, near a pint
of raisin wine, one ounce of coriander seeds, a quarter
of an ounce of allspice, a bit of cinnamnon, and six
cloves, all bruised, after having previously mixed thein
cold. The jelly should boil fifteen minutes without
stirring ; then clear it through a flannel bag. While
running, take a little jelly, and mix with a tea-cupful
of water, in which a bit of beet-root has been boiled
and run it through the bag when all the rest is run
out; and this is to garnish the other jelly, being cooled
on a plate: but this is matter of choice. This jelly has
2 very fine high colour and flayour.


SWEET DISHES.
217
1
Orange Jelly.
Grate the rind of two Seville and two China oranges,
and two lemons, squeeze the juice of three of each, and
strain, and add the juice of a quarter of a pound of lump
sugar and a quarter of a pint of water, and boil till it
almost candies. Have ready a quart of isinglass-jelly
made with two ounces ; put to it the syrup, and boil it
once up; strain off the jelly, and let it stand to settle
as above, before it is put into the mould.
Hartshorn Jelly.
Simmer eightounces of hartshorn shavings with two
quarts of water to one ; strain it, and boil it with the
rinds of four China oranges and two lemons pared thin;
when cool, add the juice of both, half a pound of sugar,
and the whites of six eggs beaten to a froth; let the jelly
have three or four boils without stirring, and strain it
through a jelly bag.
Cranberry Teily.
Make a very strong isinglass jelly. When cold, mix
it with a double quantity of cranberry-juice, pressed as
directed for dressing cranberries, (see preserves;) sweet-
en and boil it up; then strain it into a shape.
The sugar 'must be good loaf, or the jelly will not be
clear.
Cranberry and Rice Jelly.
Boil and press the fruit, strain the juice, and by de-
grees mix it into as much ground rice as will, when
boiled, thicken to a jelly ; boil it gently, stirring it, and
sweeten to your taste. Put it in a basin or form, and
serve to eat as the afore-directed jelly, with milk or
Apple Jelly to serve at table.
Prepare twenty golden pippins; boil them in a pitt
and a half of water from the spring, till quite tender;
then strain the liquor through a colander. To every
pint put a pound of fine sugar, add grated orange or
lemon, then boil to a jelly.
Another.- Prepare apples as before by boiling and
straining ; have ready half an ounce of işinglass boiled
cream.
7


218
SWEET DISHÉS.
in half a pint of water to a jelly : put this to the apple
water, and apple as'strained through a coarse sieve, add
sugar, a little lemon-juice and peel, boil all together,
and put into a dish. Take out the peel.
To scald Codlins.
Wrap each in a vine-leat, and pack them close in a
nice saucepan, and when full, pour as much water as
will cover them. Set it over a gentle fire, and let them
simmer slowly till done enough to take the thin skin off
when cold. Place them in a dish, with or without milk,
cream, or custard; if the latter, there should be no ra-
tafia. Dust fine sugar over the apples.
Steved Golden Pippins.
Scoop out the core, pare them very thin, and as you
do it, throw them in water. For every pound of fruit,
make half a pound of single-refined sugar into syrup,
with a pint of water, when skimmed, put the pippins in,
and stew till clear; then grate the lemon over, and
serve in the syrup. Be careful not to let them break.
They are an elegant and good dish for a corner or
dessert.
Black Caps.
Halve and core some fine large apples, put them in a
shallow pan, strew white sugar over, and bake them.
Boil a glass of wine, the same of water, and sweeten it
it for sauce.
Another way. Take off a slice from the stalk end of
some apples, and core without paring them. Make
ready as much sugar as may be sufficient to sweeten
them, and mix with it some grated lemon, and a few
cloves in fine powder. Stuff the holes as close as possi.
ble with this, and turn the flat end down on a stew-pan;
get them on a very slow fire, with half of raisin wine,
and the same of water; cover them close, and now and
then baste them with the liquor : when done enough;
black the tops with a salamander.
Stewed Pears.
Pare and halve, or quarter, large pears, according to


SWEET DISHES.
219
raw.
their size ; throw them into water, as the skin is taken
off, before they are divided, to prevent their turning
black. Pack them round a block-tin stew-pan, and
sprinkle as much sugar over as will make them pretty
sweet, and add lenon-peel, a clove or two, and some
allspice cracked ; just cover them with water, and put
some of the reở liquor, as directed in another article.
Cover them close, and stew three or four hours; when
tender, take them out, and pour the liquor from them,
Baked Pears.
These need not be of a fine sort; but some taste bet-
ter than others, and often those that are least fit to eat
Wipe, but do not pare, and lay them on tin plates,
and bake them in a slow oven. When enough to bear it
flatten them with a silver spoon. When done through,
put them on a dish. They should be baked three or
four times, and very gently.
Orange Butter.
Boil six hard eggs, beat them in a mortar with two
ounces of fine sugar, three ounces of butter, and two
ounces of blanched almonds beaten to a paste. Moisten
with orange-flower water, and when all is mixed, rub it
through a colander on a dish, and serve sweet biscuits
between
Wine Roll.
Soak a peppy French roll in raisin wine till it will
hold po more; put it in the dish, and pour round it a
custard, or cream, sugar, and lemon juice. Just before
it is served, sprinkle over it some nonpareil comfits ; or
stick a few blanched slit almonds into it.
Sponge biscuits may be used instead of the roll.
To prepare Fruit for Children, a far more wholesome.
way than in Pies and Puddings.
Put apples sliced, or plums, currants gooseberries,&c.
into a stone jar, and sprinkle as much Lisbon sugat as,
pecessary among them, set the jar on a hot hearth, or
in a saucepan of water, and let it remain till the fruit is
perfectly done,


SWEET DISHES.
221
4
Brown Bread Ice.
Grate as fine as possible stale brown bread, soak a
small proportion in cream two or three hours, sweeten
and ice it.
Ratafia Cream
Blanch a quarter of an ounce of bitter almonds, and
beat them in a tea-spoonful of water in a marble mor-
tar; then rub with the paste two ounces of lump-sugar,
and simmer ten minutes with a tea-cup of cream, which
add to a quart more of cream, and having strained,
ice it.
Colourings to stain Jellies, Ices, or Cakes.
For a beautiful red, boil fifteen grains of cochineal
in the finest powder, with a dram and a half of cream
of tartar, in half a pint of water, very slowly, half an
hour. Add in boiling a bit of alum the size of a pea.
Or use beet-root sliced, and some liquor poured over.
For white, use almonds finely powdered, with a little
water ; or use cream.
For yellow, yolks of eggs, or a bit of saffron, steeped in
the liquor and squeezed.
For green, pound spinach-leaves or beet-leaves, ex-
press the juice, and boil in a tea-cupful in a saucepan
of water to take off the rawness.
London Syllabub.
Put a pint and a half of port or white wine into a
bowl, nutmeg grated, and a good deal of sugar; then
milk into it near two quarts of milk, frothed up. If the
wine be not rather sharp, it will require more for this
quantity of milk.
Syllabub.
Put a pint of cider and a glass of brandy, sugar and
nutmeg into a bowl, and milk into it; or pour warm
milk from a large tea-pot some height into it.
A very fine Syllabub.
In a large China-bowl put a pint of port, and a pint
of sherry, or other white wine ; sugar to taste. Milk
the bowl full. In twenty minutes' time, coverit pretty
T2


222
SWEET DISHES:
high with clouted cream; grate over it nutmer, put
pounded cinnamon, and nonpareil comfits.
Junket.
Put warm milk into a bowl: turn it with rennet;
then put some scalded cream, sugar, and cinnamon, on.
the top, without breaking the curd.
Everlasting, or Solid. Syllabubs.
Mix a quart of thick raw cream, one pound of refin-
ed sugar, a pint and half of fine raisin wine, in a deep
pan ; put to it the grated peel and the juice of three
lemons. Beat, or whisk it one way half an honr; then-
put it on a sieve with a bit of thin muslin laid smooth:
in the shallow end till next day. Put it in glasses. It:
will keep good in a cool place, ten days.
Lemon Honeycomb.
Sweeten the juice of a lemon to your taste, and put
it in the dish that you serve it in. Mix the white of an
egg that is beaten with a pint of rich cream, and a little
sugar; whisk it, and as the froth rises, put it on the
lemon-juice. Do it the day before it is to be used.
Rice and Sago Milks
Are made by washing the seeds nicely, and simmering
with milk over a slow fire till sufficiently done.The
former sort requires lemon, spice, and sugar; the latter:
is good without any thing to flavour it.
A pretty Supper Dish.
Boil a tea-cupful of rice, having first washed it in,
milk till tender : strain off the milk, lay the rice in lit-
tle heaps on a dish, strew over them some finely pow-
dered sugar and cinnamon, and put warm wine and a :
little butter into the dish.
Savoury Rice.
Wash and pick some rice, stew it very gently! na
small quantity of veal or rich mutton broth, with an
onion, a blade of mace, pepper, and salt. When; Tell-
ed, but not boiled to mash, dry it on the shallow end
of a sieve before the fire, and either serve it dry, or
1


SWEET DISHES.
.
put it in the middle of a dish, and pour the gravy round,
having heated it.
Carrole of Rice.
Take some well packed rice, wash it well, and boil
it five minutes in water, strain it, and put it into a stew-
pan, with a bit of butter,. a good slice of ham, and an
onion. Stew it over a very gentle fire till tender;
have ready a mould lined with very thin slices of ba-
con: mix the yolks of two or three eggs with the rice,
and then line the bacon with it about half an inch thick;.
put into it a ragout of chicken, rabbit, veal, or any
thing else. Fill up the mould, and cover it close with
rice. Bake it in a quick oven an hour, turn it over,
and sond it to the table in a good gravy, or curry-sauce.
Cassorol, or Rice Edging, see page 149.
Salmagundy
I's a beautiful small dish, if in nice shape, and if the
colours of the ingredients are varied. For this pur-.
pose chop, separately the white part of cold chicken or
veal, yolks of eggs boiled hard, the whites of eggs,
parsley, half a dozen anchovies, beet-root, red pickled
cabbage, ham and grated tongue, or any thing well
flavoured, and of a good colour. Some people like a
small proportion of onion,, but it may be better omit-
ted. A saucer, large tea-cup, or any other base, must
be put into a smail dish; then make rows round it
wide at bottom, and growing smaller towards the top:
choosing such of the ingredients for each row as will
most vary the colours. At the top a little sprig of curl-
ed parsley inay be stuck in, or, without any thing on
the dish, the salmagundy may be laid in rows, or put
into the half whites of eggs, which may be made to
stand upright by cutting off a little bit at the rounds
end. In the latter case, each half egg has but one in-
gredienti Curled butter and parsley may be put az
garnish between.
Macaroni as usually served.
Boil it in milk, or a weak veal broth, pretty well
Aavoured with salt. When tender, put it into a dish


224
SWEET DISHES.
without the liquor, and among it put some bits of but-
ter and grated cheese, and over the top grate more,
and a little more butter. Set the dish into a Dutch
oven a quarter of an hour, but do not let the top be-
come hard.
Another way.-- Wash it well, and simmer in half milk
and half broth of veal or mutton, till it is tender. To
a spoonful of this liquor put the yolk of an egg beaten
in a spoonful of cream, just make it hot to thicken, but
not boil : put it over the macaroni, and then grate
fine old cheese all over, and bits of butter. Brown
with the salamander.
Another.-Wash the macaroni, then simmer it in a
little broth, with a little pounded mace and salt.-
When quite tender, take it out of the liquor, lay it in a
dish, grate a good deal of cheese over, then cover that
with bread grated fine. Warm some butter without
oiling, and pour it from a boat through a little earthen
colander all over the crumbs, then put the dish in a
Dutch oven to roast the cheese, and brown the bread
of a fine colour. The bread should be in separate
crumbs, and look light.
Omlet.
Make a batter of eggs and milk, and a very little
flour; put to it chopped parsley, green onions, or chives
or a very small quantity of shallot (the latter is best)
a little pepper, salt, and a scrape or two of nutmeg.
Make some butter boil in a small frying-pan, and pour
the above batter into it; when one side is of a fine yel.
low brown, turn it, and do the other. Double it when
served. Some scraped lean ham, or grated tongue,
put in at first, is a very pleasant addition. Four eggs
will make a pretty sized omlet; but many cooks will
use eight or ten. A small proportion of flour should
be used.
If the taste be approved, a little taragon gives a fine
flavour. A good deal of parsley should be used.
Ramakins and omlet, though usually served in the
course, would be much better if they were sent up af.
ter, that they might be eaten as bot as possible.
}


SWEET DISHES.
225
Butter to serve as a little Dish.
Roll butter 'in different forms; either like a pine,
and make the marks with a tea-spoon ; or roll it in
crimping rollers, work it through a colander, or scoop
with a tea-spoon, and mix with grated beef, tongue,
or anchovies. Make a wreath of curled parsley to
garnish.
Ramakins.
Scrape a quarter of a pound of Cheshire, and ditto
of Gloucester cheese, ditto of good fresh butter; then
beat all in a mortar with the yolks of four eggs, and the
inside of a small French roll boiled in cream till soft ;
mix the paste then with the whites of the eggs previous-
ly beaten, and put into small paper pans made rather
long than square, and bake in a Dutch oven till of a fine
brown. They should be eaten quite hot. Some like:
the addition of a glass of white wine.
The batter for ramakins is equally good over maca-
roni when boiled tender ; or on stewed broccolim celem
ry, or cauliflower, a little of the gravy they have been
stewed in being put in the dish with them, but not
enough to make the vegetable swim.
Potted Cheese.
Cut and pound four ounces of Cheshire cheese, one
ounce and a half of fine butter, a tea-spoonful of white
pounded sugar, a little bit of mace, and a glass of white
wine. Press it down in a deep pot.
Roast Cheese, to come up after Dinner.
Grate three ounces of fat Cheshire cheese, mix it
with the yolks of two eggs, four ounces of grated bread,
and three ounces of butter ; beat the whole well in a
mortar, with a dessert-spoonful of mustard, and a little-
salt and pepper. Toast some bread, cut it into proper
pieces, lay the paste as above thick upon them, put
them into a Dutch oven covered with a dish, till hot
through, remove the dish, and let the cheese brown
a little. Serve as hot as possible.
Welsh Rabbit.
Toast a slice of bread on both sides, and butter it ;


226
SWEET DISHES.
toast a slice of Gloucester cheese on one side, and lay
that next the bread, and toast the other with a sala-
mander ; rub mustard over, and serve very hot, and
covered.
Cheese Toast.
Mix some fine butter, made mustard, and salt, into
a mass ; spread it on fresh-made thin toasts, and grate
or scrape Gloucester cheese upon them.
Anchovy Toast.
Bone and skin six or eight anchovies; pound them to
a mess with an ounce of fine butter till the colour is
equal, and then spread it on toasts or rusks.
Another way.-Cut thin slices of bread into any form,
and fry them in clarified butter. Wash three ancho-
vies split, pound them in a mortar with some fresh
butter, rub them through a hair-sieve, and spread on
the toast when cold. The quarter and wash some
anchovies, and lay them on the toast. Garnish with
parsley or pickles.
To poach Eggs.
Set a stew-pan with water on the fire; when boiling,
slip an egg previously broken into a cup, into the wa-
ter ; when the white looks done enough, slide an egg-
slice under the egg, and lay it on toast and butter, of
spinach. As soon as enough are done, serve hot. If
not fresh laid they will not poach well, and without
breaking. Trim the ragged parts of the whites, and
make them look round.
To boil Eggs.
Put them in when the water boils; three minutes
and a half will boil them soft, and five or six hard.
Buttered Eggs.
Beat four or five eggs, yolk and white together, put a
quarter of a pound of butter in a basin, and then put
that in boiling water ; stir it till melted, then pour that
butter and the eggs into a saucepan ; keep a basin in
your hand, just hold the saucepan in the other over a
slow part of the fire, shaking it one way, as it begius


SWEET DÌShes.
227
to warm ; pour it into a basin and back, then hold it
again over the fire, stirring it constantly in the sauce.
pan, and pouring it into a basin, more perfectly to mix
the egg and butter, until they shall be hot without
boiling.
Serve on toasted bread : or in a basin, to eat with
salt fish, or red herrings.
Scotch Eggs.
Boil hard five pullets’ eggs, and without removing
the white, cover completely with a fine relishing force-
meat, in which let scraped ham, or chopped anchovy,
bear a due proportion. Fry of a beautiful yellow
brown, and serve with a good gravy in the dish.
A Pepper-pot.
To three quarts of water, put such vegetables as you
choose ; in summer, peas, lettuce, spinach, and two or
three onions ; in winter, carrot, turnip, onions, and
celery. Cut them very small, and stew them with two
pounds of neck of mutton, and a pound of pickled pork,
till quite tender. Half an hour before serving, clear
a lobster or crab from the shell, and put it into the
stew. Some people choose very small suet dumpling's
boiled in the above. Season with salt and Cayenne.
Instead of mutton, you may put a fowl. Pepper-pot.
may be made of various things, and is understood to be
a proper mixture of fish, flesh, fowl, vegetables, and
pulse. A small quantity of rice should be boiled with
the whole.
The Staffordshire Dish of frying Herbs and Liver.
Prepare the fryiug herbs as has been directed among
the vegetables, page 189 ; on which lay slices of liver
fried a beautiful brown, and slices of bacon just warm-
ed at the fire, and laid on each. On the outside part of
the herbs lay eggs fried very nicely, and then trim--
med round; or they may be served on the herbs, and
the liver garnished with the bacon separately.
To preserve Suet a twelvemonth.
As soon as it comes in, choose the firmest part, and


228
SWEET DISHES.
pick free from skin and veins. In a very nice sauce-
pan, set it at some distance from the fire, that it may
melt without frying, or it will taste.
When melted, pour it into a pan of cold water. When
in a hard cake, wipe it very dry, fold it in fine paper,
and then in a linen bag, and keep it in a dry but not hot
place. When used, scrape it fine, and it will make a
fine crust, with or without butter.
SWEETMEATS.
To green Fruits for preserving or pickling.
Take pippins, apricots, pears, plums, peaches, while
green, for the first, or radish-pods, French beans for
the latter, and cucumbers for both processes ; and put
them with vine-leaves under and over, into a block-tin
preserving-pan, with spring-water to cover them, and
then the tin cover to exclude all air. Set it on the side
of a fire, and when they begin to simmer, take them off.
pour off the water, and if not green, put fresh leaves
when cold, and repeat the same. Take them out care-
fully with a slice : they are to be peeled, and then done
according to the receipts for the several modes.
To clarify Sugar for Sweetmeats.
Break as much as required in large lumps, and puta
pound to half a pint of water in a bowl, and it will dis-
solve better than when broken small. Set it over the
fire, and the well-whipt white of an egg ; let it boil up,
and, when ready to run over, pour a little cold water
in to give it a check ; but when it rises a second time,
take it off the fire, and set it by in the pan a quarter
of an hour, during which the foulness will sink to the
bottom, and leave a black scum on the top, which take
off gently with a skimmer, and pour the syrup into a
vessel very quickly from the sediment.
To candy any sort of Fruit.
When finished in the syrup, put a layer into a new
sieve, and dip it suddenly into hot water, to take off
the syrup that hangs about it; put it on a napkin before


}
230
SWEETMEATS.
the fire till the apricots green, but on no account boil
or crack; remove them very carefully into a pan with
the syrup for two or three days ; then pour off as much
of it as will be necessary, and boil with more sugar to
anake a rich syrup, and put a little sliced ginger into
it. When cold, and the thin syrup has all been drained
from the fruit, pour the thick over it. The former will
serve to sweeten pies.
Apricots or Peaches in Brandy.
Wipe, weigh, and pick the fruit, and have ready a
quarter of the weight of fine sugar in fine powder.
Put the fruit into an ice-pot that shuts very close ;
throw the sugar over it, and then cover the fruit with
brandy. Between the top and the cover of the pot,
put a piece of double cap-paper. Set the pot into a
saucepan of water till the brandy be as hot as you can
possibly bear to put your finger in, but it must not
boii. Put the fruit into a jar, and pour the brandy on
it. When cold, put a bladder over, and tie it down
tight.
To dry Apricots in half.
Pare thin and halve four pounds of apricots, weigh-
ing them after ; put them in a dish ; strew among them
three pounds of sugar in the finest powder. When it
melts, set the fruit over å stove to do very gently; as
each piece becomes tender, take it out and put it into
a China bowl. When all are done, and the boiling heat
a little abated, pour the syrup over them. In a day
or two remove the syrup, leaving only a little in each
half. In a day or two more turn them, and so continue
daily till quite dry; in the sun or a warm place. Keep
in boxes with layers of paper.
Apricot Cheese.
Weigh an equal quantity of pared fruit and sugar,
wet the latter a very little, and let it boil quickly, or
the colour will be spoiled ; blanch the kernels, and add
to it. Twenty or thirty minutes will boil it. Put it
in small pots or cups half filled.


SWEETMEATS.
231
Orange Marmalade.
Rasp the oranges, cut out the pulp, then boil the
rinds very tender, and beat fine in a marble mortar.
Boil three pounds of loaf sugar in a pint of water, skim
it, and a pound of the rind : bail it fast till the syrup is
very thick, but stir it carefully; then put a pint of the
pulp and juice, the seeds having been removed, and a
pint of apple liquor; boil all gently until well jellied,
which it will be in about half an hour. Put it into
small pots.
Lemon marmalade do in the same way; they are very
good and elegant sweetmeats.
Transparent Marmalade.
Cut the palest Seville oranges in quarters, take the
pulp out, and put it in a basin, pick out the seeds and
skins, Let the outsides soak in water with a little salt
all night, then boil them in a good quantity of spring
water till tender ; drain, and cut them in very thin
slices, and put them to the pulp ; and to every pound,
a pound and a half of double refined sugar beaten fine;
boil them together twenty minutes, but be careful not
to break the slices. If not quite clear, simmer five or
six minutes longer. It must be stirred all the time very
gently. When cold, put it into glasses,
Orange Chips.
Cut oranges in halves, squeeze the juice through a
sieve ; soak the peel in water; next day boil in the same
till tender, drain them, and slice the peels, put them
to the juice, weigh as much sugar, and put all together
into a broad earthen dish, and put over the fire at a
moderate distance, oſten stirring till the chips candy ;
then set them in a cool room to dry. They will not be
so under three weeks,
Orange Biseuils, or little Cakes.
Boil whole Seville oranges in two or three waters,
till most of the bitterness is gone; cut them, and take
out the pulp and juice ; then beat the outside very fine
in a mortar, and put it to an equal weight of double-


232
SWEETMÉATS.
refined sugar beaten and siſted. When extremely wel
mixed to a paste, spread it thin on China dishes, and
set them in the sun, or before the fire ; when half-dry,
cut it into what form you please, turn the other side
up, and dry that. Keep them in a box, with layers of
paper.
Orange-flower Cakes.
Put four ounces of the leaves of the flowers into cold
water for an hour ; drain, and put between napkins,
and roll with a rolling-pin till they are bruised; then
have ready boiled a pound of sugar to add to it in a
thiek syrup, give them a simmer until the syrup ad-
heres to the sides of the pan, drop in little cakes on a
plate, and dry as before directed.
To keep Oranges or Lemons for Puddings, &c.
When you squeeze the fruit, throw the outside in
water, without the pulp; let them remain in the same
a fortnight, adding no more ; boil them therein till
tender, strain it from them, and when they are tol-
erably dry, throw them into any jar of candy you may
have remaining from old sweetmeats ; or if you have
pone, boil a small quantity of syrup of common. loaf-
sugar and water, and put over them ; in a week or ten
days boil them gently in it till they look clear, and.
that they may be covered with it in the jar. You may
cut each half of the fruit in two, and they will occupy
To
preserve
Strawberries whole,
Take equal weights of the fruit and double-refined
sugar : lay the former in a large dish, and sprinkle half
the sugar in fine powder over; give a gentle shake to
the dish, that the sugar may touch the under side of
the fruit. Next day make a thin syrup with the re-
maioder of the sugar, and, instead of water, allow one
pint of red currant juice to every pound of strawber-
ries ; in this, simmer them until sufficiently jellied.
Choose the largest scarlets, or others, when not dead
ripe. In either of the above ways, they eat well serv-
ed in thin cream, in glasses.
They are for desserts : and are also useful as a sto-
small space.


SWEETMEATS.
233
machic, to carry in the pocket or on journeys, or for
gentlemen when shooting, and for gouty stomachs.
To preserve Strawberries in Wine.
Put a quantity of the finest large strawberries into a
gooseberry bottle, and strew in three large spoonfuls of
fine sugar, fill up with Madeira wine, or fine sherry.
To dry Cherries with Sugar.
Stone six pounds of Kentish ; put them into a pre-
serving-pan, with two pounds of loaf-sugar pounded
and strewed among them ; simmer till they begin to
shrivel, then strain them from the juice : lay them on
a hot hearth, or in an oven, when either is cool enough
to dry without baking them.
The same syrup will do another six pounds of fruit.
To dry Cherries without Sugar.
Stone and set them over the fire in the preserving-
pan, let them simmer in their own liquor, and shake
them in the pan. Put them by in common China dish-
es, next day give them another scald, and put them
when cold, on sieves to dry, in an oven of attemperat-
ed heat as above. Twice heating, an hour each time,
will do them.
Put them in a box, with a paper between cach layer.
To dry Cherries the best way.
To every five pounds of cherries stoned, weigh one
of sugar double refined. Put the fruit into the pre-
serving pan with very little water, make both scalding-
hot ; take the fruit out and immediately dry them ; put
them into the pan again, strewing the sugar between
each layer of cherries ; let it stand to melt; then set the
pan on the fire, and make it scalding hot as before ;
take it off, aod repeat this thrice with the sugar.
Drain them from the syrup; and lay them singly to
dry on dishes, in the sun or on a stove. When dry put
them into a sieve, dip it into a pan of cold water, and
draw it instantly out again, and pour them on a fine
soft cloth ; dry them; and set them once more in the
hot sun, or on a stove. Keep them in a box, with lay-
ers of white paper, in a dry place. This way is the best
to give plumpness to the fruit, as well as colour and
flavour,
U2


236
SWEETMEATS.
Goosberry Jam for Tarts.
Put twelve pounds of the red hairy gooseberries
when ripe and gathered in dry weather, into a preserv.
ing-pan, with a pint of currant-juice, drawn as for jelly:
Let them boil pretty quick, and beat them with the
spoon, when they begin to break, put to 'them six
pounds of pure white Lisbon sugar, and simmer slow-
ly to a jam. It requires long boiling or will not keep:
but is an excellent and reasonable thing for tarts or
puffs. Look at it in two or three days, and if the syr-
up and fruit separate, the whole must be boiled longer.
Be careful it does not burn to the bottom.
Another.--Gather your gooseberries (the clear white
or green sort) when ripe : top and tail and weigh them:
a pound to three quarters of a pound of fine sugar, and
half a pint of water, boil and skim the sugar and wa-
ter then put the fruit and boil gently till clear: then
break and put into small pots.
White Gooseberry Jam..
Gather the finest white gooseberries, or green if you
choose, when just ripe, top and tail them. To each:
pound put three quarters of a pound of fine sugar, and
half a pint of water, Boil and clarify the sugar in the
water as directed in page 228, then add the fruit, sim-
mer gently till clear, then break it, and in a few min-
utes put the jam into small pots.
Raspberry Jam.
Weigh equal quantities of fruit and sugar, put the
former into a preserving-pan, boil and break it, stir
constantly, and let it boil very quickly. When most of
the juice is wasted, add the sugar, and simmer half an
bour. This way the jam is greatly superior in colour
and flavour to that which is made by putting the sugar
in at first.
Another way.—Put the fruit in a jar in a kettle of
water, or on a hot hearth, till the juice will run from
it, then take away a quarter of a pint from every pound
of fruit, boil and bruise it half an hour, then put in the
weight of the fruit in sugar, and adding the same quan-
tity of current-juice, boil it to a strong jelly.


SWEETMEAT.S.
237
may be boiled with its weight in sugar for making the
jelly for raspberry-ice or cream.
To preserve Greengages.
Choose the largest, when they begin to soften ; split
them without paring, and strew a part of the sugar
which you have previously weighed an equal quantity
of. Blanch the kernels with a small sharp knife. Next
day, pour the syrup from the fruit, and boil it with the
other sugar, six or eight minutes, very gently ; skim
and add the plums and kernels. Simmer till clear, tak-
ing off any scum that rises : put the fruit singly into
small pots, and pour the syrup and kernels to it. If
you would candy it, do not add the syrup, but observe
the directions that will be given for candying fruit ;
some may be done each way.
Damson Cheese.
Bake or boil the fruit in a stone jar in a saucepan of
water, or on a hot hearth. Pour off some of the juice,
and to every two pounds of fruit weigh half a pound of
sugar. Set the fruit over a fire in the pan, let it boil
quickly till it begin look dry; take out the stones,
and add the sugar, stir it well in, and simmer two
hours slowly, then boil it quickly half an hour, till the
sides of the pan candy: pour the jam then into potting-
pans or dishes about an inch thick, so that it may cut
firm. If the skins be disliked, then the juice is not to
be taken out; but after the first process, the fruit is to
be pulped through a very coarse sieve with the juice,
and managed as above. The stones are to be cracked
or some of them and the kernels boiled in the jam. All
the juice may be left in, and boiled to evaporate, but do
not add the sugar until it has done so. The above
looks well in shapes.
Biscuits of Fruit.
To the pulp of any scalded fruit put an equal weight
of sugar sifted, beat it two hours, then put it into little
white paper forms, dry in a cool oven, turn the next
day, and in two or three days box them.
Quince Marmalade.
Pare and quarter quinces, weigh an equal quantity


238
SWEETMEATS.
of sugar, to four pounds of the latter put a quart of wa-
ter, boil and skim, and have it ready against foup
pounds of quinces are tolerably tender by the following
mode ; lay them in a stone jar, with a tea-cup of water
at the bottom, and pack them with a little sugar strew-
ed between : cover the jar close, and set it on a stove
or cool oven, and let them soften till the colour become
red; then pour the fruit-syrup and a quart of quince
juice into a preserving-pan, and boil all together till the
marmalade be completed, breaking the lumps of fruit
with the preserving ladle.
This fruit is so hard, that if it be not done as above, it
requires a great deal of time.
Stewing quinces in a jar, and then squeezing them
through a cheese cloth, is the best method of obtaining
the juice to add as above ; and dip the cloth in boil-
ing water first and wring it.
To preserve whole or half Quinces.
Into two quarts of boiling water put a quantity of
the fairest golden pippins, in slices not very thin, and
not pared, but wiped clean. Boil them very quick,
close covered, till the water becomes a thick jelly ;
then scald the quinces. To every pint of pippin jelly
put a pound of the finest sugar; boil it and skim it
clear. Put those quinces that are to be done whole
into the syrup at once, and let it boil very fast; and
those that are to be in halves by themselves ; skim it,
and when the fruit is clear, put some of the syrup
into a glass to try whether it jellies before taking off
the fire. The quantity of quinces is to be a pound
to a pound of sugar, and a pound of jelly already
boiled with the sugar.
Excellent Sweetmeats for Tarts, when Fruit is plentiful.
Divide two pounds of apricots when just ripe, and
take out and break the stones : put the kernels without
their skins to the fruit; add to it three pounds of
greengage plums, and two pounds and a half of lump
sugar ; simmer until the fruit be a clear jam. The su-
gar should be broken in large pieces, and just dipped
in water, and added to the fruit over a slow fire. Oba


SWEETMEATS.
239
serve that it does not boil, and skim it well. If the
sugar be clarified, it will make the jam better.
Put it into small pots, in which all sweetmeats keep
best.
Raspberry Cakes.
Pick out any bad raspberries that are among the
fruit, weigh and boil what quantity you please, and
when mashed, and the liquor is wasted, put to it sugar
the weight of the fruit you first put into the pan, mix it
well off the fire until perfectly dissolved, then put it on
China plates, and dry it in the suu. As soon as the
top part dries, cut with the cover of a cannister into
small cakes, turn them on fresh plates, and when dry,
put them in boxes with layers of paper.
TO PRESERVE FRUITS FOR WINTER USE.
Observations on Swectmeals.
Sweetmeats should be kept carefully from the air,
and in a very dry place, unless they have a very small
proportion of sugar, a warm one does not hurt, but
when not properly boiled (that is long enough, but not
quick,) heat makes them ferment; and damp causes
them to grow mouldy. They should be looked at two
or three times in the first two months, that they may
be gently boiled again, if not likely to keep.
It is necessary to observe, that the boiling of sugar
more or less, constitutes the chief art of the confec.
tioner; and those who are not practised in this knowl-
edge, and only preserve in a plain way for family use,
are not aware that in two or three minutes, a syrup
over the fire will pass from one gradation to another,
called by confectioners degrees of boiling, of which
there are six, and those subdivided. But I am not
versed in the minutiæ, and only make the observation to
guard against under-boiling, which prevents sweet-
meats from keeping ; and quick boiling and long, which
brings them to candy.
Attention, without much practice, will enable a
person to do any of the following sort of sweetmeats,
&c. and they are as much as is wanted in a private


240
PRESERVES.
family ; the higher articles of preserved fruits may be
bought at less expense than made.
Jellies of fruit made with equal quantity of sugar,
that is, a pound to a pint, require no very long boil.
ing
A pan should be kept for the purpose of preserve
ing; of double block tin, with a bow handle opposite
the straight one for safety, will do very well : and if
put by nicely cleaned, in a dry place, when done
with, will last for several years. Those of copper or
brass are improper, as the tinning wears out by the
scraping of the sweetmeat-ladle. There is a new sort
of iron with a strong tinning, which promises to wear
tong. Sieves and spoons should be kept likewise for
sweet things.
Sweetmeats keep best in drawers that are not con-
nected with a wall. If there be the least damp, cover
them only with paper dipped in brandy, laid quite
close ; putting a little fresh over in spring, to prevent
insect mould.
When any sweetmeats are directed to be dried in
the sun or in a stove, it will be best in private fami-
lies, where there is not a regular stove for the pur-
pose, to put them in the sun on flag stones, which re-
flect the heat, and place a garden glass over them to
keep insects off ; or if put into an oven, take care not
to let it be too warm, and watch that they do properly
and slowly.
To keep Currants.
The bottles being perfectly clean and dry, let the
currants be cut from the large stalks with the smallest
bit of stalk to each, that the fruit not being wounded,
no moisture may be among them. It is necessary to
gather them when the weather is quite dry; and if the
servant can be depended upon, it is best to cut them
under the trees, and let them drop gently into the
bottles.
Stop up the bottles with cork and rosin, and put them
into the trench in the garden with the neck down-
wards ; sticks should be placed opposite to where each
cort of fruit begins.


242
PRESERVES.
one another. Hold the sieve in the water till the fruit
begins to look scalded on the outside ; then turn them
gently out of the sieve on a cloth on the dresser, cover
them with another cloth, and put some more to be
scalded, and so on till all be finished. Observe not to
put one quantity on another, or they will become too
soft. The next day pick out any bad or broken ones, .
bottle the rest, and fill up the bottles with the alum-
water in which they were scalded, which must be kept
in the bottles ; for if left in the kettle, or in a glazed
pan, it will spoil, Stop them close.
The water must boil all the time the process is car-
rying on. Gooseberries done this way make as fine tarts
as fresh off the trees.
Another way.-In dry weather pick the gooseberries
that are full-grown, but not ripe ; top and tail them,
and put into open-mouthed bottles ; gently cork them
with new velvet corks; put them in the oven when the
bread is drawn, and let them stand till shrunk a quar-
ter part : take them out of the oven, and immediately
beat the corks in tight, cut off the tops, and rosin down
close ; set them in a dry place; and if well secured
from air, they will keep the year round,
If gathered in the damp, or the gooseberries' skins
are the least cut in taking off the stalks and buds, they
will mould. The hairy sort only must be used for
keeping, and do them before the seeds become large,
Currants and damsons may be done the same.
To keep Damsons for Winter Pies,
Put them in small stone jars, or wide mouthed bot-
tles ; set them up to their necks in a boiler of cold
water: and lighting a fire under, scald them. Next
day, when perfectly cold, fill up with spring water,
cover them.
Another way.-Boil one third as much sugar as fruit
with it, over a slow fire, till the juice adheres to the
fruit, and forms a jam. Keep it in small jars in a dry
place. If too sweet, mix with it some of the fruit that
is done without sugar.
Another way.--Choose steen-pots if you can get


PRESERVES.
245
them, which are of equal size top and bottom, (they
should hold eight or nine pounds,) put the fruit in,
about a quarter up, then strew in a quarter of the su-
gar; then another quantity of fruit, and so till all of
both are in. The proportion of sugar is to be three
pounds to nine pounds of fruit Set the jars in the
oven, and bake the fruit quite through. When cold,
put a piece of clean-scraped stick into the middle of
the jar, and let the upper part stand above the top ;
then pour melted mutton-suet over the top full half an
inch thick, having previously covered the fruit with
white paper. Keep the jars in a cool dry place, and
use the suet as a cover ; which you will draw up by
the stick, minding to leave a little forked branch to it
to prevent its slipping out.
To preserve Fruit for Tarts, or Family-desserts.
Cherries, plums of all sorts, and American apples,
gather when ripe, and lay them in small jars that will
hold a pound : strew over each jar six ounces of good
loaf-sugar pounded ; cover with two bladders each,
separately tied down ; then set the jars in a large stew-
pan of water up to the neck, and let it boil three hours
gently. Keep these and all other sorts of fruit free
irom damp.
To keep Lemon Juice.
Buy the fruit when cheap, keep it in a cool place
two or three days : if too unripe to squeeze readily,
cut the peel off some, and roll them under your hand
to make them part with the juice more readily; others
you may leave unpaired for grating, when the pulp
shall be taken out and dried. Squeeze the juice into
a China basin; then strain it through some musliu
which will not permit the least pulp to pass. Have
ready half and quarter ounce phials perfectly dry, fill
them with the juice so near the top as only to admit
half a tea-spoonful of sweet oil into each ; or a little
more, if for larger bottles. Cork the bottles, and set.
them upright in a cool place,
When you want lemon juice open such a siyede


214
PRESERVES.
bottle as you shall use in two or three days ; wind
some clean cotton round a skewer, and dippping it in,
the oil will be attracted ; and when all shall be remov-
ed the juice will be as fine when first bottled.
Hang the peels up till dry ; then keep them from
the dust,
China-orange Juice. A rery useful thing to mix with
water in Fevers, when the fresh juice cannot be pro-
cured.
Squeeze from the finest fruit, a pint of juice strained
through fine muslin, and gently simmer with three
quarters of a pound of double refined sugar twenty min.
utes : when cold, put in small bottles,
Different ways of dressing Cranberries.
For pies and puddings, with a good deal of sugar.
Stewed in a jar, with the same ; which way they eat
well with bread, and are very wholesome.
Thus done, pressed and strained, the juice makes a
fine drink for people in fevers,
Orģeat.
Boil a quart of new milk with a stick of cinnamon,
sweeten to your taste, and let it grow cold; then pour
it by degrees to three ounces of almonds, and twenty
bitter, that have been blanched and beaten to a paste,
with a little water to prevent oiling; boil all together,
and stir till cold, then add half a glass of brandy.
Another way. Blanch and pound three quarters of a
pound of almonds, and thirty bitter, with a spoonful of
water. Stir in by degrees two pints of water, and
three of milk, and strain the whole through a cloth.
Dissolve half a pound of fine sugar in a pint of water,
boil and skim it well ; mix it with the other, as like-
wise two spoonfuls of orange-flower water, and a tea-
capful of the best braudy.
Lemonade to be made a day before wanted.
Pare two dozen of tolerably sized lemons as thin as
possible, put eight of the rinds into three quarts of hot,
not boiling water, and cover it over for three or four
1


246
CAKES.
of juice, broken into large lumps ; stir it when melted,
then put the jar into a saucepan of water, or on a hot
hearth, let it simmer and skim it. When cold, bottle it.
This is one of the most useful preparations that can
be kept in a house, not only as affording the most re-
freshing beverage; but being of singular efficacy in
complaints of the chest. A large spoonful or two in
a tumbler of water. Be careful to use no glazed nor
metal vessel for it.
The fruit, with an equal quantity of sugar, makes
excellent Rasberry Cakes without boiling.
CAKES, BREAD, &c.
Observations on making and baking Cakes.
Currants should be very nicely washed, dried in a
cloth, and then set before the fire. If damp, they will
make cakes or pudding heavy. Before they are au-
ded, a dust of dry flour should be thrown among
them, and a shake given to them, which causes the
thing that they are put to, to be lighter.
Eggs should be very long beaten, whites and yolks
apart, and always strained.
Sugar should be rubbed to a powder on a clean
board, and sifted through a very fine hair or lawn
sieve.
Lemon-peel should be pared very thin, and with a
little sugar beaten in a marble mortar, to a paste, and
then mixed with a little wine, or cream, so as to di-
vide easily among the other ingredients.
After all the articles are put into the pan, they
should be thoroughly and long beaten, as the lightness
of the cake depends much on their being well incor-
porated.
Whether black or white plum-cakes, they require
less butter and eggs for having yeast, and eat equally
light and rich. In the leaven be only of flour, milk
and water, and yeast, it becomes more tough, and is
less easily divided, than if the butter be first put with


248
CAKES.
pound of butter, four ounces of sugar, four eges,
hait
an ounce of caraways, and a glass of raisin-wine. Beat
it well, and bake an a quick oven. Fine Lisbon sugar
will do.
A very good common Cake.
Rub eight ounces of butter in two pounds of dried:
flour, mix it with three spoonfuls of yeast that is not
bitter, to'a paste. Let it rise an liour and a half ; then
mix in the yolks and whites of four eggs beaten apart,
one pound of sugar, some milk to make it a proper
thickness (about a pint will be sufficient), a glass of
sweet wine, the rind of a lemon, and a tea-spoonful of
ginger. Add either a pound of currants, or some cara.
ways, and beat well.
An excellent Cake.
Rub two pounds of dry fine flour, with one of butter,
washed in plain and rose-water, mix it with three
spoonfuls of yeast in a little warm milk and water, Set:
it to rise an hour and an half before the fire ; then beat
into it two pounds of currants, one pound of sugar sift-
ed, four ounces of almonds, six ounces of stoned raisins,
chopped fine, half a nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice, and-a
few cloves, the peel of a lemon chopped as fiue as pos-
sible, a glass of wine, ditto of brandy, twelve yolks and
whites of eggs beat separately and long, orange, citron
and lemon. Beat exceedingly well, and batter the
pan. A quick oven.
A very fine Cake.
Wash two pounds and a half of fresh butter in water
first, and then in rose-water, beat the butter to it
cream ; beat twenty eggs, yolks and whites separately,
half an hour each. Have ready two' pounds and a
half of the finest flour, well dried, and kept hot, lilne:
wise a pound and a half of sugar pounded and siſted,
one ounce of spice in finest powder, three pounds or
ourrants nicely cleaned and dry, half a pound of al-
monds blanched, and three quarters of a pound of
sweetmeats cut not too thin. Let all be kept by the
fire, mix all the dry ingredients, pour
the
eggs strain


250
CAKES.
Eittle short Cakes.
Rub into a pound of dried flour four ounces of buit
ter, four ounces of white powder sugar, one egg, and
a spoonful or two of thin cream to make it into a paste.
When mixed, put currants into one half, and caraways
into the rest. Cut them as before, and bake on
tips.
Plum Cake.
Mix thoroughly a quarter of a peck of fine flour,
well dried, with a pound of dry and sifted loaf sugar,
three pounds of currants washed and very dry, half a
pound of raisins stoned and chopped, a quarter of an
ounce of mace and cloves, twenty Jamaica peppers, a
grated nutmeg, the peel of a lemon cut as fine as pos-
sible, and half a pound of almonds blanched and beat-
en with orange-flower water, Melt two pounds of
butter in a pint and a quarter of cream, but not hot ;
put to it a pint of sweet wine, a glass of brandy, the
whites and yolks of twelve eggs beaten apart, and half
a pint of good yeast. Strain this liquid by degrees in-
to the dry ingredients, beating them together a full
hour, then butter the hoop, or pan, and bake it. As
you put the batter into the hoop, or pan, throw in plenty
of citron, lemon, and orange-candy.
If you ice the cake, take half a pound.of double-refin-
ed sugar sifted, and put a little with the white of an egg,
beat it well, and by degrees pour in the remainder. It
must be whisked near an hour, with the addition of a
little orange-flower water, but mind not to put much.
When the cake is done, pour the iceing over, and re-
turn it to the oven for fifteen minutes : but if the oven
be warm, keep it near the mouth, and the door open,
lest the colour be spoiled.
Another.-Flour dried, and currants washed and
picked, four pounds ; sugar pounded and sifted, one
pound and a half ; six orange, lemon, and citron peels,
cut in slices ; mix these.
Beat ten eggs, yolks and whites separately ; then
melt a pound and a half of butter in a pint of cream;:
when luke-warm, put it to balf a pint of ale-yeast, near


CAKES.
231
Haif a pint of sweet wine, and the eggs; then strain
the liquid to the dry ingredients, beat them well, and
add of cloves, mace, cinnamon, and nutmeg, half an
ounce each. Butter the pan, and put it into a quick
Three hours will bake it.
oven.
Very good Common Plum Cakes.
Mix five ounces of butter in three pounds of dry
flour, and five ounces of fine Lisbon sugar : add six
ounces of currants, washed and dried, and some pimen-
to finely powdered. Put three spoonfuls of yeast in-
to a Winchester pint of new milk warmed, and mix in,
to a light dough with the above. Make it into twelve
cakes, and bake on a fioured lin half an hour.
Litlle Plum Cakes to keep long.
Dry one pound of flour, and mix with six ounces of
finely pounded sugar ; beat six ounces of butter to a
cream, and add to three eggs, well beaten, half a pound
of currants washed, and nicely dried, and the flour and
sugar; beat all for some time, then dredge flour on tin
plates, and drop the batter on them the size of a walnut.
If properly mixed, it will be a stiff paste. Bake in a
brisk oven,
A good Pound Cake.
Beat a pound of butter to a cream, and mix with it
the whites and yolks of eight eggs beaten apari. Have
ready warm by the fire, a pound of flour, and the same
of sifted sugar, mix them and a few cloves, a little nut-
meg and cinnamon, in fine powder together : then by
degrees work the dry ingredients into the butter and
eggs. Wherwell beaten, add a glass of wine and some
caraways. It must be beaten a full hour. Butter a
pan, and bake it a full hour in a quick oven.
The above proportions, leaving out four ounces of
the butter, and the same of sugar, make a less luscious
cake, and to most tastes a more pleasant one.
A cheap Seed Cake.
Mix a quarter of a peck of flour with half a pound


252
CAKES.
of sugar, a quarter of an ounce of allspice, and a little
ginger ; melt three quarters of a pound of butter, witir
half a pint of milk : when just warm, put to it a quar-
ter of a pint of yeast, and work up to a good dough. Let
it stand before the fire a few minutes before it goes to
the oven ; add seeds, or currants, and bake an hour and
a half.
Another. Mix a pound and a half of flour, and a
pound of common lump-sugar, eight eggs beaten sepa-
rately, an ounce of seeds, two spoonfuls of yeast, and the
same of milk and water.
Note, Milk alone causes cake and bread soon ta
(lry.
Common Bread Cake.
Take the quantity of a quartern loaf from the dough.
when making white bread, and need, well into it two
ounces of butter, two of Lisbon sugar, and eight of
currants. Warm the butter in a tea-cupful of good
milk.
By the addition of an ounce of butter or sugar, or an
egg or two, you may make the cake the better. A tea-
cupful of raw cream improves it much. It is best to
bake it in a pan, rather than as a loaf, the outside being
less hard.
Queen Cakes.
Mix a pound of dried flour, the same of sifted sugar.
and of washed clean currants. Wash a pound of butter
in rose water, beat it well, then mix with it eight eggs,
yolks and whites beaten separately, and put in the dry
ingredients by degrees; beat the whole an hour ; but-
ter little tins, tea-cups, or saucers, and bake the batter
in, filling only half. Sift a little fine sugar over just as
you put into the oven.
Another way.—Beat eight ounces of butter, and mix
with two well beaten eggs, strained; mix eight ounces
of dried flour, and the same of lump-sugar, and the
grated rind of a lemon; then add the whole together,
and beat full half an hour with a silver spoon. Butter
small patty-pans, half fill, and bake twenty minutes in
a quick oven.


CAKES.
253
Shrewsbury Cakes.
Siſt one pound of sugar, some pounded cinnamon,
and a nutmeg grated, into three pounds of flour, the
finest sort; add a little rose-water to three eggs, well
beaten, and mix these with the flour, &c. then pour
into it as much butter melted as will make it a good
thickness to roll out.
Nould it well, and roll thin, and cut it into such
shapes as you like
Tunbridge Cakes.
Rub six ounces of butter quite fine, into a pound of
flour, then inix six ounces of sugar, beat and strain two
eggs, and make with the above into a paste. "Roll it
very thin, and cut with the top of a glass ; prick them
with a fork, and cover with caraways, or wash with the
white of an egy, and dust a little white sugai over.
Rice Cake.
Mix ten ounces of groupd rice, three ounces of flour,
eight ounces of pounded sugar; then sift by degrees
into eight yolks and six whites of eggs, and the peel of
a lemon shred so fine that it is quite mashed ;. mix the
whole well in a tin stew-pan over a very slow fire with
a whisk, then put it immediately into the oven in the
same, and bake forty minutes.
: Another.- Beat twelve yolks and six whites of egois
with the peels of two lemons grated. Mix one pound
of flour of rice, eight ounces of flour, and one pound of
sugar pounded and sifted ; then beat it well with the
eggs by degrees, for an hour, with a wooden spoon.
Butter a pan well, and put it in at the oven mouth.
A gentle oven will bake it in an hour and a half.
Water Cakes.
Dry three pounds of fine flour, and rub into it one
pound of sugar sifted, one pound of butter, and one
ounce of caraway-seed. Make it into a paste with
three quarters of a pint of boiling new milk, roll very
thin, and cut into the size you choose ; punch Full o.
koles, and bake on tin plates in a cool oven.


251
CAKES
Sponge Cake.
Weigh ten eggs, and their weight in very fine sugat,
and that of six in four ; beat the yolks with the fiour,
and the whites alone, to a very stiff froth : then by de-
grees mix the whites and the flour with the other in-
gredients, and beat them well half an hour. Bake in a
quick oven an hour.
Another, without butter.-Dry one pound of flour, and
one and a quarter of sugar ; beat seven eggs, yolks and
whites apart; grate a lemon, and with a spoonful of
brandy, beat the whole together with your hand for an
hour. Bake in a butter pan, in a quick oven.
Sweetmeats may be added, if approved.
Tea Cakes.
Rub fine four ounces of butter into eight ounces of
flour, mis eight ounces of currants, and six of fine Lis.
bon sugar, two yolks and one white of eggs, and a spoon-
ful of brandy. Roll the paste the thickness of an Oli-
ver biscuit, and cut with a wine-glass. You may beat
the other white, and wash over them ; and either dust
sugar, or not, as you like.
Benton Tea Cakes.
Mix a paste of flour, a little bit of butter, and milk;
roll as thin as possible, and bake on a back-stone over
the fire, or on a hot hearth.
Another sort, as Biscuits.—Rub into a pound of flour
six ounces of butter, and three large spoonfuls of yeast,
and make into a paste, with a sufficient quantity of
new milk: make into biscuits, and prick them with a
olean fork.
Another sort.--Melt' six or seven ounces of butter,
with 7 sufficiency of new milk warmed to make seven
pounds of flour into a stiff paste ; roll thin, and make
into biscuits.
A Biscuit Calce.
One pound of flour, five eggs, well beaten and strain-
ed, eight ounces of sugar, a little rose or orange-flower
water;
beat the whole thoroughly, and bake one hour.


CAKES.
-2.55
Macaroons.
Blanch four ounces of almonds, and pound with fout
spoonfuls of orange-flower water ; whisk the whites af
four eggs to a froth, then mix it in a pound of sugar,
sifted, with the almonds to a paste; and laying a sheet
of wafer-paper on a tin, put it on in different Little
cakes, the shape of macaroons.
Wafers.
Dry the flour well which you intend to use, mix a
little pounded sugar, and finely pounded mace with it;
then make it into a thick batter with cream : butter
the wa fer-irons, let them be hot ; put a tea-spoonful of
the butter into them, so bake them carefully, and roll
them off the iron with a stick.
Crack-nuts.
Mix eight ounces of flour, and eight ounces of sugar;
melt four ounces of butter in two spoonfuls of raisin
wine : then, with four eggs beaten and strained, make
into a paste ; add caraways, roll out as thin as paper,
cut with the top of a glass, wash with the white of an
egg, and dust sugar over.
Cracknels.
Mix with a quart of flour half a nutmeg grated, the
yolks of four eggs beaten, with four spoonfuls of rose-
water into a stiff paste, with cold water : then roll in a
pound of butter, and make them into a cracknel-shape;
put them into a kettle of boiling water, and boil them
till they swim, then take out, and put them into cool
water; when hardened, lay them out to dry, and bake
them on tin plates.
A good plain Bun, that may be eaten with or without
toasting and butter.
Rub four ounces of butter into two pounds of four,
four ounces of sugar, a nutmeg or not, as you like, a
few Jamaica-peppers : a dessert spoonful of caraways ;
put a spoonful or two of cream into a cup of yeast, and
as much good milk as will make the above into a light
paste. Set it to rise by a fire till the oven be ready,
They will quickly bake on tine,


256
CAKES.
ܪ
Richer Bun's.
Mix one pound and a half of dried flour with hall a
pound of sugar; melt a pound and two ounces of but-
ter in a little warın water; add six spoontuls of rose-
water, and knead the above into a light dough, with
half a pint of yeast, then mix five ounces of caraway-
comfits in, and put some on them.
Gingerbread.
Mix with two pounds of Hour, half a pound of trea.
cle, three quarters of an ounce of caraways, one ounce
of ginger finely sifted, and eight ounces of butter.
Roll the paste into what form you please, and bake
on tins, after having worked it very much, and kept it
to rise.
If you like sweetmeats, add orange candied ; it may
be added in small bits,
Another sort.To three quarters of a pound of trea-
cle beat one egg strained ; mix four ounces of brown
sugar, half an ounce of ginger sifted ; of cloves, mace,
allspice, and nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce, beaten as
fine as poʻsible ; coriander and caraway seeds, each, a
quarter of an ounce ; melt one pound of butter, and
mix with the above : and add as much flour as will
knead into a pretty stiff paste ; then roll it out, and cut
ipto cakes.
Bake on tin plates in a quick oven. A little time
will bake them.
Of some, drops may be made.
A good plnin sort. Mix three "pounds of flour with
half a pound of butter, four ounces of brown sugar, half
an ounce of pounded vinger; then make into a paste
with one pound and a quarter of treacle warm.
A good sort without butter --Mix two pounds of trea-
ole; of orange, lemon, and citron, and candied gingers
each four ounces, all thinly sliced ; one ounce of rori-
ander seeds, one ounce of caraways, and one ounce of
beaten ginger, in as much fiower as will make a soft
paste ; lay it in cakes on tin plates, and bake it in a
quick oven. Keep it dry in a covered eartheu vessel,
and it will be good for some months.


SAKES.
257
Nole.--If cake or biscuits be kept in paper, or a
drawer, the taste will be disagreeable. A pan and co-
ver, or tureen, will preserve them long and moist.
Or if to be crisp, laying them before the fire will make
them so.
Rusics.
Beat seven eggs well and mix with half a pint of new
milk, in which have been melted four ounces of butter;
add to it a quarter of a pint of yeast, and three ounces
of sugar, and put them, by degrees, into as much foyrr
as will make a very light paste, rather like a batter,
and let it rise before the fire half an hour; then adi
some more flour, to make it a little stiffer, but not stiff,
Work it well, and divide it into small loaves, or cakes,
about five or six inches wide, and flatten them. When
baked and cold, slice them the thickness of rusks, anel
put them in the oven to brown a little.
Note.The cakes, when first baked, eat deliciously,
buttered, for tea; or, with caraways, to eat cold.
To make Yeast.
Thicken two quarts of water with fine flour, about
three spoonfuls, boil half an hour, sweeten with near
half a pound of brown sugar; when near cold, put into
it four spoonfuls of fresh yeast in a jug shake it well to-
gether, and let it stand one day to ferment near the
fre, without being covered. There will be a thin li-
quor on the top, which must be poured off ; shake the
remainder, and cork it up for use. Take always four
spoonfuls of the old to ferment the next quantity, keep
ing it always in succession.
A half-peck loaf will require about a gill.
Another way.-boil one pound of potatoes to a wash;
when half cold, add a cupful of yeast and mix it well
It will be ready for use in two or three hours, and
keeps well.
Use double the quantity of this to what you do of
beer-yeast.
To take off the bitter of yeast, put bran into a sieve,
wpd pour it through, having first mixed a little warm
water with it.


260
BREAD.
far easier of digestion than bread baked the common
way in ovens.
In the same manner cakes may be made of any kind
of grain, viz. rye, oats, or barley, and will be found a
wholesome, nourishing bread, and more agreeable to
nature than that made in the usual manner.
Oaten cakes are often preferable to those made of
włacaten flour, as they tend to open the body, and are
rather warmer to cold and weak stomachs,
Barley is not so nourishing, and requires more pre-
paration to render it digestable than the other kinds of
grain.
Cakes, biscuits, buns, muffins, crumpets, and small
bread, made with eggs, butter and sugar, seldom agree
with delicate persons.
Biscuits made without either leayen, yeast butter,
or sugar, are more difficult of digestion than bread
when it is fermented.
Rolls, muffins, or any sort of bread, may be made to.
taste new when two or three days old, by dipping them
uncut in water, and baking afresh, or toasting.
When there is reason to suspect that bread is adul.
terated with alum, it may be detected thus : cut about
a pound of bread into an earthen vessel, pour upon it
a quart of boiling water, and let it stand till cold.-
Strain the liquior off gently through a piece of fine lin-
en, boil it down to about a wine-glass full, set it by to
cool, and if there be a mixture of alum, the crystals of
it will appear.
Four of the following aphorisms ought to be the gene-
ral rules to all the makers of bread; and the fifth, the
practice of all the consumers of bread.
1. Bread should be made of sound, clean grain, new-
by ground, and not contaminated by any extraneous
mixtures.
2. To be leavened, which makes it light of digestions
and moderately seasoned with salt.
3. Suffered to rise for several hours, and well wrought
and laboured with the ha ds.
4. Well baked, not to much, wlrich cngenmes the


BREAD.
261
strength and goodness of the four; por too little, which
makes it heavy, clammy, and unwholesome.
5. Not in general to be eaten hot, as it is then more
viscid, and harder of digestion than when cold. Bread
ja in its best state the first and second day after it is
baked.
THE METHOD OF MAKING LEAVEN.
When leaven is to be first produced, a lump of yeast
dougit must be pui into a pan and set it in a cold damp
place. In about ten or fourteen days it will be in a
proper state to use as a ferment for bread. At every
making of bread, a sufficient quantity of the leavened
dough should be laid by for the leaven against the next
baking. The makers of bread with leaven, have learnt
from experience, that it is best to use the same pan
for keeping the leaven and the same tub for making the
bread, without ever washing them. They are kept
clean by scraping. It is always best to borrow a piece
of leaven, to begin with, if this can be done, rather
than to make it for immediate use.
To make Perpetual feast,
Take a pound of fiue flour, and mix it up with boil-
ing water to about the thickness of a moderately thick
water gruel; and half a pound of coarse moist sugar,
and when it is milk warm pour it upon three large
spoonfuls of well purified yeast in a pan large enough
to give room for the fermentation. As its ferments
take off the yeast and put it into a stone bottle with a
sinall neck, cork it, and keep it in a dry warm place.
When half used replenish it with flour and water pre-
pared as at first, but no addition of yeast will be re-
quired. This is to be the regular process to keep up
the stock.
Artificial Yerist.
Boil some mealy potatoes till they are soft, then peci
them, and when bruised add as much boiling water
az will make them of the consistence of Common
yeast. To every pound of potatoes put in two ounces
6


262
BREAD.
warin.
of coarse moist sugar or treacle, and two table spoons
fuls of good yeast, stirred in while the potatoes are
Makc this in a vessel large enough to admit
of the fermentation, and keep it warm till it has done
fermenting. It will then be fit for use. Let it be kept
in a cellar.
To make Bread with Leaven.
The proportion of leaven to flour, is a piece of the
size of a goose's egg to half a peck of flour. Take such
quantities of each as the occasion may demand, make
a hole in the middle of the flour, break the leaven
into it, aad put as much water, made blood warm, as
will wet hall the flour. Mix the leaven and flour well
together, then cover it over close with the remainder
of the floor, and let it stand all night. The next morn-
ing the whole lump will be well fermented or leavened.
Add as much warm water, taking care it is not warmer
than blood, as will mix it, and knead it up very stiff
than firm till it be smooth and pliable. The more pains
that are taken in kneading the dough, the better and
smoother the bread will cut; as well as tasting softer
and pleasanter in the mouth, and being easier of di.
gestion. When the dough is well kneaded, let it stand
by the fire about two hours, then make it up into
loaves and bake them. The time of baking must de-
pend on the size of the loaves. A quartern loaf will
require two hours and a half. Some salt must be add-
ed in the morning with the fresh quantity of water.
To make Bread with Yeast.
Put half a bushel of flour into a trough, mix half a
pint of good thick yeast with two quarts of water, milk
warm ; make a hole in the middle of the flour, pour
this into it, and mix it lightly with a part of the flour
into a kind of batter. Strew a handful of flour over
it, and let the remainder lie round it. This is called
setting the sponge, and should be done in the evening.
By the next morning it will be much risen. Add then
two more quarts of water, milk warm, with two ounces
of salt in it. Work it up into a pretty stiff dough,
knead it thoroughly, and let it rise for two or three


BREAD.
263
hours. Pheu mould it up into loaves, and take them
according to the size. A quartern loaf requires two
hours and a half in a well heated oven, and smaller
loaves in proportion.
If the yeast is not very thick and good, some addition
must be made in the quantity to make up for it.
The above receipt is for fine flour; for flour with
only the coarse bran taken out, a rather larger portion
of water must be used.
If the flour is dry it will require more water than
when fresh. The above receipt is intended for fresh
flour.
In cold weather the dough should be set by the fire
to rise after it is kneaded : and the water may be used
rather warmer, but must never be hot.
To make Bread with a mixture of Rice.
Stew a pound of whole rice in water till it is quite
tender, pour off the water, and put the rice before it
is cold to four pounds and a half of wheaten flour.-
Add the usual quantity of yeast, (about a quarter of a
pint,) rather more than the usual quantity of salt, and
as much luke-warm water as will make it into dough.
It will require the same time to rise as common bread,
and is to be baked in the same manner.
The produce of the above quantities, viz. five pound
and a half, is ten pounds of bread. The rice is not
perceptible in it, so that it is in appearance the same
as is of wheaten flour alone. It eats well, and is not as
soon stale as the common bread. If the dough is mixed
up with the water the rice was boiled in, it gives the
bread more substance.
Potatoe and Flour Bread.
Weigh half a pound of mealy potatoes after they are
boiled or steamed, and rub them while warm into a
pound and a half of fine flour dried for a little while
before the fire. When thoroughly mixed, put in a
spoonful and a half of yeast, a little salt, and warm
milk and water enough to work it into dough. Let
this stand by the fire to rise for an hour and a half,


20+
BREAD.
then make it into a loaf and bake it in a moderately
brisk oven.
If baked in a tin the crust will be more delicate, but
the bread Jries sooner.
Another Potatoe and Flour Bread.
To two pounds of well boiled nealy potatoes rubbed
between the hands till they are as fine as flour, mix in
thoroughly two large double handfuls of wheaten tlour,
three good spoonfuls of yeast, a little salt and warm
milk enough to make it the usual stiffness of dough.
Let it stand three or four hours to rise, then mould it, .
make it up, and bake it like cominon bread.
Rolls with a mixture of Potatoes.
Dry a pound and a half of flour. Bruise a pound of
well boiled mealy potatoes, and work them with half
an ounce of butter, and half a pint of milk, till they
will pass through a colander. Put a quarter of a pint
of warm water to a quarter of a pint of yeast, add these
and some salt to the potatoes, and mix the whole up
with the flour. If it works up too stiff a little more
milk must be' added. When it is well kneaded, set it
before the fire to rise for half an hour, then work it up
into common sized rolls, and bake them half an hour in
a pretty quick oven,
French Rolls.
Rub an ounce of butter into a pound of flour ; add to
it in one egg, two spoonfuls of yeast, and a little salt,
mixed with as much milk just warmed, as will make
it into a light paste. Let this rise half an hour, then
make it into moderate sized rolls, and set them before
the fire for an hour longer. Half an hour will bake
them in a quick oven.
Long Rolls.
Take two pounds of flour, rub into it two ounces of
butter, and two ounces of loaf sugar finely powdered.
Put to these four large spoonfuls of pretty thick yeast;
and milk enough maile just warm, to mix it into a light
pasie. Set this before the fire to rise for half an hour


BREAD,
267
If made up about the size of a common saucer, and
eaten after the first baking, they are very nice butter-
ed for tea.
French Rusks.
Weigh a pound of yolks of eggs, and a pound and a
half of powdered sugar; put these in a pan together,
and stir them about thoroughly with a large wooden
spoon for ten minutes. Add an ounce of carsaway-
seeds, and two pounds of flour. Mix all together into
a paste, and mould it upon a clean pye-board, into
rolls of about fourteen or fifteen inches long, an! be-
tween two or three inches thick. Lay these upon a
paper, and press them down with the hand till about
an inch thick in the middle, and flattened down almost
to a point at the edges. Put them upon a wire plate
with two or three sheets of paper under them, besides
the paper they are made upon. Bake them with great
care, not to overdo them, as they would then break in
the cutting. When they come out of the oven wet
the paper underneath, that they may come off while
warm. Cut them with a sharp knife into rusks ahout
a quarter of an inch thick, lay them fiat on the wire,
and put them into the oven till crisp and dry.
Potatoe Rolls.
Boil three pounds of potatoes, bruize and work them
with two ounces of butter, and as much milk as will
make them pass through a colander. Take halfor three
quarters of a pint of yeast, and a half pint of warm wa-
ter, mix with the potatoes, then pour the whole upon
five pounds of flour, and add some salt. Knead it well;
if not of a proper consistence, put a little more milk
and water warm ; let it stand before the fire w hour to
rise ; work it well, and make into rolls. Bake about
half an hour in an oven not quite so hot as for bread,
They eat well, toasted and buttered.
Hard Biscuits.
Warın two ounces of butter in as much skimmel milk
as win make a pound of flour into a very stiff paste, beat


268
HOME-BREWERY.
it with a rolling-pin, and work it very smooth. Roll it
thin, and cut it into round biscuits : prick them full of
holes with a fork. About six minutes will bake them.
HOME-BREWERY, WINES, &c.
To Brew very fine Welsh Ale.
Pour forty-two gallons of water hot, but not quite
hoiling, on eight bushels of malt, cover and let stand
three hours. lu the mean time infuse four pounds of
hops in a little hot water, and pour the water and hops
into the tub, and run the wort upon them, and boil
them together three hours. Strain off the hops, and
keep for the small-beer. Let the wort stand in a high,
tub till cool enough to receive the yeast, of which put
two quarts of ale, or, if you cannot get it, of small-beer
yeast. Mix it thoroughly and often, When the wort.
'has done working, the second or third day, the yeast
will sink rather than rise in the middle : remove it then,
and turn the ala as it works out; pour a quart in at a
time, and gently, to prevent the fermentation from con-
tinuing too long, which weakens the liquor. Put a bit
of paper over the bung-hole two or three days before
stopping up.
Strong Beer, or Ale.
Twelve bushels of malt to the hogshead for beer (or
fourteen if you wish it of a very good body,) eight for
ale ; for either pour the whole quantity of water hot,
but not boiling on at once, and let it infuse three hours
close covered ; mash it in the first half hour, and let it
stand the remainder of the time. Run it on the hops
previously infused in the water; for strong beer, three
quarters of a pound to a bushel ; if for ale, half a pound.
Boil them with the wort two hours from the time it be-
gins to boil. Cool a pailful to add to two quarts of
yeast, which will prepare it for putting to the rest
when really next day; but if possible put together the
same night. Tun as usual. Cover the bung-hole with


HOME-BREWERY.
271
when to be used, cut a piece out; stir it in warm water.
If to be used for brewing, keep it by dipping large ;
handfuls of birch tied together; and when dry, repeat
the dipping once, You may thus do as many as you
please ; but take care that no dust comes to them, or
the vessel in which it has been prepared as before.-
When the wort is set to work, throw it into one of
these bunches, and it will do as well as with fresh yeast;
but if mixed with a small quantity first, and then added
to the whole it will work sooner.
Remarks on home made Wines.
Home made wines would be found particularly use-
ful now foreign are so high priced ; and though sugar
is dear, they may be made at a quarter of the expense.
If carefully made, and kept three or four years, a pro-
portionable strength being given, they would answer
the purpose of foreign wines for health, and cause a
very considerable reduction in the expenditure.
A rich and pleasant Wine.
Take new cider from the press, mix it with as much
honey as will support an egg, boil gently fifteen min-
utes, but rot in an iron, brass, or copper pot. Skim it
well ; when cool, let it be tunned, but do not quite
fill. In March following bottle it, and it will be fit to
drink in six weeks ; but will be less sweet if kept lon-
ger in the cask. You will have a rich and strong wine,
and it will keep well. This will serve for any culinary
purposes, which milk, or sweet wine, is directed for.
Honey is a fine ingredient to assist, and render
palatable, new crabbed austere cider.
Raspberry Wine.
To every quart of well-picked raspberries, put a
quart of water; bruise, and let them stand two days :
strain off the liquor, and to erery gallon put three
pounds of lump sugar; when dissolved put the liquor
in a barrel, aud when fine, which will be in about two
months, bottle it, and to each bottle put a spoonful of
brandy, or a glass of wine,


272
WIDE
Rasberry or Currant Wines
To every three pints of fruit, carefully cleared frown
mouldy or bad, put one quart of water ; bruise the for-
mer. lu twenty-four hours strain the liquor, and put
to every quart a pound of sugar, of good middling
quality of Lisbon. If for white currants, use lump su.
gar. It is best to put the fruit, &c. in a large pan; and
when in three or four days the scum rises, take that off
before the liquor be put into the barrel.
Those who make from their own gardens, may not
have a sufficiency to fill the barrel at once: the wine
will not be hurt if made in the pan, in the above pro
portions, and added as the fruit ripens, and can be gath-
ered in dry weather. Keep an account of what is put
in each time.
Another way.—Put five quarts of currants, and a pint
of raspberries, to every two gallons of water; let them
soak a night : then squeeze and break them well. Next
day rub them well on a fine wire sieve, till all the juice
is obtained, washing the skins again with some of the
water ; then to every gallon put four pounds of very
good Lisbon sugar, but not white, which is often adul-
terated; tun it immediately, and lay the bung lightly
Do not use any thing to work it. In two or three
days put a bottle of brandy to every four gallons: bung
it close, but leave the peg out at top a few days ; keep
it three years, and it will be a very fine agreeable wine,
four years would make it still better.
Black Currant Wine, very fine.
To every three quarts of juice, put the same of wa.
ter unboiled; and to every three quarts of the liquor
add three pounds of very pure moist sugar. Put it in-
to a cask, reserving a little for filling up. Put the cask
in a warm dry room, and the liquor will ferment of it-
self. Skim off the refuse, when the fermentation shall
be over, and fill up with the reserved liquor. When
it has ceased working, pour three quarts of brandy to
forty quarts of wine. Bung it close for nine montin,
then bottle it, and drain the thick part through a jelly-
bag, until it be clear, and botile that., Keep it ten of
twelve months.
on.


WINES.
073
E.ccellent Ginger, Il'inc. is
Put into a very nice boiler ten ballons of water, fif-
teen pounds of lamp-sugar, with the whites of six or
eight eggs well beaten and strained; mix all well while
cold ; when the liquor boils, skim it well ; put in halía
pound of cornmon white ginger bruised, boilit twenty
minutes. Have ready the very thin rinds of seven
lemons, and pour the liquor on them ; when cool, tuu it
with two spoonfuls of yeast; put a quart of the liquor
to two ounces of isinglass-shayings, while warm, whisk
it well three or four times, and pour all together into
the barrel. Next day stop it up; in three weeks bot-
tle, and in three months it will be delicious and refresh-
ing liquor, and though very cool perfectly safe.
Another -- Boil nine quarts of water with six pounds
of lump-sugar, the rinds of two or three lemons very
thinly pared, with two ounces of bruised white ginger,
halfan hour; skim. Put three quarters of a pound of
raisins into the cask; when the liquor is lukewarm, tun
it with the juice of two lemons strained, and a spoon-
ful and a half of yeast. Stir it daily, then put in half
a pint of brandy, and half an ounce of jsinglass-shav-
ings ; stop it up, and bottle it in six or seven weeks.
Do not put the lemon-peel in the barrel.
Excellent Cowslip Il’ine.
To every gallon of water, weigh thrée pounds of
lump sugar, boil the quantity half an hour, taking off
the scum as it rises. When cool enough, put to it a
'crust of toasted bread dipped in thick yeast, let the li-
quor ferment in the tub thirty-six hours; then into the
cask put for every gallon, the peel of two and rind of one
lemon and both of one Seville orange, and one gallon
of cowslip pips, then pour on them the liquor. It must
be carefully stirred every day for a week ; then to ev-
ery five gallons put in a bottle of brandy. Let the cask
be close stopped, and stand only six weeks before you
bottle off. Observe to use the best corks.
Elder Wine.
To every quart of berries put two quarts of water,


274
WINES.
boil half an hour, run the liquor and break the fruit.
through a hair sieve ; then to every quart of juice put
three quarters of a pound of Lisbon sugar, coarse, but
not the very coarsest. Boil the whole a quarter of an
hour with some Jamaica peppers, ginger, and a few
cloves. Pour it into a tub, and when of a proper
warmth, into the barrel, with toast and yeast to work,
which there is more difficulty to make it do than most
other liquors. When it ceases to hiss, put a quart of
brandy to eight gallons, and stop up. Bottle in the
spring or at Christmas. The liquor must be in a warm
place to make it work.
White Elder Wine, very much like Frontiniac.
Boil eighteen pounds of white powder-sugar, with
six gallons of water, and two whites of eggs well beaten;
then skim it, and put it in a quarter of a peck of elder.
flowers from the tree that beers white berries : do not
keep them on the fire. When near cold, stir it, and
put in six spoonfuls of lemon-juice, four or five of yeast;
and beat well into the liquor ; stir it every day ; put
six pounds of the best raisins, stoned, into the cask, and
tun the wine. Stop it close, and bottte in six months.
When well kept, this wine will pass for Frontiniac.
Clary Wine.
Boil fifteen gallons of water, with forty-five pounds
of sugar, skim it, when cool put a little to a quarter of
a pint of yeast, and so by degrees add a little more. lo
an hour pour the small quantity to the large, pour the
liquor on clary-flowers, picked in the dry , the quanti-
ty for the above is twelve quarts. Those who gather
from their own garden may not have sufficient to put
in at once, and may add as they can get them, keeping
account of each quart. When ceases to hiss, and the
flowers are all in, stop it up for four months. Rack it
off, empty the barrel of the dregs, and adding a gallon
of the best brandy, stop it up, and let it stand six or eight
weeks, then bottle it.
Eccellent Raisin Wine.
To every gallon of spring-water, put eight pounds of


WINES,
2.75
fresh Smyrna's in a large tub: stir it thoroughly every
day for a month; then dress the raisins in a horse-hair
bag as dry as possible; put the liquor into a cask ; and
when it has done hissing, pour in a bottle of the best
brandy ; stop it close for twelve months, then rack it
off, but without the dregs; filtre them through a bag
of flannel of three or four folds; add the clear to the
quantity, and pour one or two quarts of brandy, ac-
cording to the size of the vessel. Slop it up, and at
the end of three years, you may either bottle it, or
drink it from the cask.
Raisin wine would be extremely good, if made rich
of the fruit, and kept long, which improves the flavour
greatly.
Roisin Wine with Cider.
Pat two hundred weight of Malaga raisins into a cask
and pour upon them a hogshead of good sound cider
that is not rough ; stir it well two or three days ; stop it
and let it stand six months: then rack into a cask that
it will fill, and put in a gallon of the best brandy.
If raisin wine be much used, it would answer well to
keep a cask always for it, and bottle off one year's
wine just in time to make the next, which, allowing
the six months of infusion, would make the wine to be
eighteen months old. In cider counties this way is very
economical ; and even if not thought strong enough, the
addition of another quarter of a hundred of raisins would
be sufficient, and the wine would still be very cheap.
When the raisins are pressed through a horse-hair
bag, they will either produce a good spirit by distilla-
tion, and must be sent to a chemist who will do it (but
if tor that purpose they must be very little pressed ;)
or they will make excellent vinegar, on which article
see page 144.
The stalks should be picked out for the above, and
may be thrown into any cask of vinegar that is making;
being very acid.
Raisin Wine without Cider.
On four hundred weight of Malaga pour one hoges-


WITES.
lise.
drank in such quantities, as to become injurious. Adu,
in bottling, half a pint of rum to the whole quantity.
Ratafia.
Blanch two ounces of peach and apricot kernels,
bruise, and put them into a bottle, and All nearly up
with brandy. Dissolve half a pound of white sugar-
candy in a cup of cold water, and aud to the brandy al-
ter it has stood a month on the kernels, and they are
strained off; then filtre through paper, and bottle for
The leaves of peaches and nectarines, when the
trees are cut in the spring, being distilled, are an excel-
lent substitute for ratalia in puddings.
Raspberry Brandy.
Pick fine dry fruit, put into a stone jar, and the jar
into a kettle of water, or on a hot hearth, till the juice
will run ; strain, and to every pint add half a pound of
sugar, give one boil, and skim it: when cold, put equal
quantities of juice and brandy, shake well, and bottle.
Some people prefer it stronger of the brandy,
An excellent method of making Punch.
Take two large fresh lemons with rough skins, quite
ripe, and some large lumps of double-refined sugar.-
Rub the sugar over the lemons till it has absorbed all
the yellow part of the skins. Then put into the bowl
these lumps, and as much more as the juice of the le-
mons may be supposed to require ; for no certain weight
can be mentioned, as the assidity of a lemon cannot be
known till tried, and therefore this must be determined
by the taste. Then squeeze the lemon-juice upon the
sugar ; and with a bruiser press the sugar and the juice
particularly well together, for a great deal of the rich-
ness and fine flavour of the punch depends on this rub-
bing and mixing process being thoroughly performed.
Then mix this up rery well with boiling water (soft wa-
ter is best.) till the whole is rather cool. When this
mixture, (which is now called the sherbet,) is to your
taste, take brandy and rum in equal quantities, and pot
them to it, mixing the whole will together again. The


278
WINES.
quantity of liquor must be according to your taste : two
good lemons are generally enough to make four quarts
of punch, including a quart of liquor, with half a pound
of sugar; but this depends much on taste, and on the
strength of the spirit.
As the pulp is disagreeable to some persons, the sher-
bet may be strained before the liquor is put in. Some
strain the lemon before they put it to the sugar, which
is improper ; as when the pulp and sugar are well mix-
ed together, it adds much to the richness of the punch.
When only rum is used, about half a pint of porter
will soften the punch ; and even when both rum and
brandy are used, the porter gives a richness, and to
some a very pleasant flavour.
This receipt has never been in print before, but is
greatly admired amongst the writer's friends. It is im-
possible to take too much pains in all the processes of
mixing ; and in minding to do them extremely well, that
all the different articles may be most thoroughly incor-
porated together.
Verder, or Milk Punch.
Pare six oranges, and six lemons, as thin as you can,
grate them after with sugar to get the flavour. Steep
the peels in a bottle of rum or brandy stopped close
twenty-four hours. Squeeze the fruit on two pounds
of sugar, add to it four quarts of water, and one of new
milk, boiling hot; stir the rum into the above, and run
it through a jelly-bag till perfectly clear. Bottle, and
cork close immediately.
Norfolk Punch.
In twenty quarts of French brandy put the peels of
thirty lemons and thirty oranges, pared so thin that not
the least of the white is left. lofuse twelve hours.
Have ready thirty quarts of cold water that has boiled;
put to it fifteen pounds of double refined sugar; and
when well mixed, pour it upon the brandy and peels,
adding the juice of the oranges and of twenty-four lem-
ons ; mix well : then strain through a very fine hair
sieve, into a very clean barrel that has held spirits, and


DAIRY AND POULTRY,
279
put two quarts of new milk. Stir, and then bung it
close; let it stand six weeks in a warm cellar; bottle the
liquor for use, observing great care that the bottles are
perfectly clean and dry, and the corks of the best qual-
ity, and well put in. This liquor will keep many years,
and improves by age.
Another way.-Pare six lemons and three Seville
oranges very thin, squeeze the juice into a large tea-
pot, put to it two quarts of brandy, one of white wine,
and one of mik, and one pound and a quarter of sugar.
Let it be mixed, and then covered for twenty-four hours,
strain through a jelly-bag till clear, then bottle it.
White Currant Shrub.
Strip the fruit and prepare in a jar as for jelly; strain
the juice, of wbich put two quarts to one gallon of rum,
and two pounds of lump-sugar; strain through a jelly-
bag.
DAIRY AND POULTRY.
DAIRY.
The servants of each country are generally acquaint-
ed with the best mode of managing the batter and
cheese of that country; but the following hints may
not be unacceptable, to give information to the mis-
tress.
On the Management of Cows, &c.
Cows should be carefully treated ; if their teats are
Sore, they should be soaked in warm water twice a day;
and either be dressed with soft ointment, or done with
spirits and water. If the former, great cleanliness is
necessary. The milk, at these times, should be given
to the pigs.
When the milk is brought into the dairy, it should be
strained and emptied into clean pans immediately in
winter, but not till cool in summer. White ware is
preferable, as the red is porous, and cannot be so tho-
roughly sealded.


230
DAIRY.
The greatest possible attention must be paid to great
cleauliness in a dairy; all the utensils, shelves, dres-
sers, and the floor, should be kept with the most per-
fect neatness, and cold water thrown over every part
very often. There should be shutters to keep out the
sun and the hot air. Meal hung in a dairy will spoil
milk.
The cows should be milked at a regular and early
hour, and the udder emptied, or the quantity will de-
crease. The quantity of moiik depends on many causes ;
as the goodness, breed, bad health of the cow, the pas-
ture, the lenghth of the time from calving, the having
plenty of clean water in the field she feeds in, &c. A
change of pasture will tend to increase it. People who
attend properly to the dairy will feed the cows parti-
cularly well two or three weeks before they calve,
which makes the milk more abundant after. In gen-
tlemen's daries more attention is paid to the size and
beauty of the cows than to their produce, which dairy-
men look most to.
For making cheese the cows should calve from Lady-
day to May, that the large quantity of milk may come
into use about the same time ; but in genilemen's fami-
lies one or two should calve in August or September
for a supply in winter. In good pactures, the average
produce of a dairy is about three gallons a-day each
cow, from Lady-day to Michaeimas, and from thence to
Christmas one gallon a-day. Cows will be profitable
milkers to fourteen or filteen years of age, if of a pro-
per breed.
When a calf is to be reared, it should be taken from
the cow in a week at farihest, or it will cause great
irouble in rearing, because it will be dillicult to make
it take milk in a pan. Take it from the cow in the morn-
ing, and keep it without food till the next morning; anii
then, being hungry, it will drink without difficulty:--
Skimmed milk and fresh whey, just as warm as new milk,
should be given twice a day in such quantities as is re-
quired. If milk runs short, smooth yruel mixed with
milk will do. At first, let the calf be out only by day,
and feed it at night and morning


DAIRY.
281
When the family is absent, or there is not a great
call for cream, a careful dairy-maid seizes the opportu-
nity to provide for the winter-store : she should have
a book to keep an account, or get some one to write
down for her the produce of every week, and set down
what butter she pots. The weight the pot will hold
should be marked on each in making at the pottery.
In another part of the book should be stated the poul-
try reared in one leaf, and the weekly consumption in
another part.
Observations respecting Cheese.
This well-known article differs according to the pas-
ture in which the cows feed. Various modes of pre-
paring may effect a great deal ; and it will be bad or
good of its kind, by being in unskilful hands or the
contrary; but much will still depend on the former
oircumstances. The same land rarely makes very fine
butter and remarkable fine cheese ; yet due care may
give one pretty good, where the other excels in quali-
ty.
Cheese made on the same grounds of new skimmed,
or mixed milk, will differ greatly, not in richness only,
but also in taste. Those who direct a dairy in a gen-
tleman's family, should consider in which way it can
be managed to the best advantage. Even with few
cows, cheeses of value may be made from a tolerable
pasture, by taking the whole of two meals of milk, and
proportioning the thickness of the vat to the quantity,
rather than having a wide and flat one, as the former
will be most mellow. The addition of a pound of fresh
made butter, of a good quality, will cause the cheese
made on poor land to be of a very different quality
from that usually produced by it.
A few cheeses thus made, when the weather is not
extremely hot, and when the cows are in full feed, will
be very advantageous for the use of the parlour.
Cheese for common family-use will be very well pro-
duced by two meals of skim, and one of new milk; or
in good land, by the skim-milk only. Butter likewise
should be made, and potted down for winter use, but
22


DAIRY.
283
get the whey from it by early breaking the curd ; the
last method deprives it of many of its oily particles,
and is therefore less proper.
Put the vat on a ladder over the tub, and fill it with
eurd by the skimmer; press the curd close with your
hand, and add more as it siuks; and it must be finally
left two inches above the eilge. Before the vat is fill-
ed, the cheese-cloth must be laid at the bottom; and
when full, draw smooth over on all sides.
There are two modes of salting cheese ; one by mix-
ing in the curd while in the tub, after the whey is
out; and the other by putting it in the vat, and crumba
ling the curd all to pieces with it, after the first
squeezing with the hands has dried it. The firt me-
thod appears best on some accounts, but not on all,
and therefore the custom of the country must direct.
Put a board under and over the vat and place it in the
press: in two hours turn it out, and put a fresh cheese-
cloth; press it again for eight or nine hours, then salt
it all over, and turn it again in the vat, and let it stand
in the press fourteen or sixteen hours ; observing to put
the cheese last made undermost. Before putting them
the last time into the vat, pare the edges if they do
not look smooth. The vat should have holes at the
sides and at the bottom to let all the whey pass through,
Put on clean boards, and change and scald them.
To preserve Cheese sound.
Wash in warm whey, when you have any, and wipe
it once a month, and keep it on a rack. If you want to
ripen it, a damp cellar will bring it forward. When a
whole cheese is cut, the larger quantity should be
spread with butter inside and the outside wipėd, to
preserve it. To keep those in daily use moist, let a
clean cloth be wrung out from cold water, and wrap
round them when carried from table. Dry cheese may
be used to advantage to grate for serving with maca-
roni or eating without. These observations are made
with a view to make the above articles less expensive,
as in most families where much is used there is waste


284
DAIRY.
To make Șage Cheese.
Bruise the tops of young red sage in a mortar, with
some leaves of spinach, and squeeze the juice; mix it
with the rennet in the milk, more or less according as
you like for colour and taste. When the curd is come,
break it gently, and put it in with the skinmer, till it
is pressed two inches above the vat. Press it eight or
ten hours. Salt it and turn every day.
Cream Cheese.
Put five quarts of strippings, that is, the last of the
milk, into a pan, with two spoonfuls of rennet. When
the curd is come, strike it down two or three times
with the skimming-dish just to break it. Let it stand
two hours, then spread a cheese-cloth on a sieve, put
the curd on it, and let the whey drain : break the curd
a little with your hand, and put it into a vat with a
two pound weight upon it. Let it stand twelve hours,
take it out, and bind a fillet round. Turn every day
till dry, from one board to another ; cover them with
nettles, or clean dock-leaves, and put between two
pewter plates to ripen. If the weather be warm, it
will be ready in three weeks.
Another.-Have ready a kettle of boiling water, put
five quarts of new milk in to a pan, and five pints of cold
water, and five of hot; when of a proper heat, put in
as much rennet as will bring it in twenty minutes, like-
wise a bit of sugar. When come, strike the skimmer
three or four times down, and leave it on the curd. In
an hour or two lade it into the vat without touching it :
put a two pound weight on it when the whey has run
from it, and the vat is full.
Another sort.--Put as much salt to three pints of raw
cream as shall season it ; stir it well, and pour it into a
sieve in which you have folded the cheese-cloth three or
four times, and laid at the bottom. When it hardens
cover it with nettles on a pewter plate.
Rush Cream Cheese.
To a quart of fresh cream put a pint of new milk
warın enough to mako the cream proper warmth, a
bit of sugar, and a little rennet.


DAIRY.
285
1
Snt near the fire till the curd comes; fill a vat made
in the lorun of brick, of wheat-straw or rushes sewed
together. Håre reacky a square of straw, or rushes
sewed flat, to rest the vat on, and another to cover it:
the vat being open at top and bottom. Next day take
it out, and change it as above to ripen. A half pound
weight will be sufficient to put on it.
Another way;.—Take a pint of very thick sour cream
from the top of the pan for gathering butter, lay a wap-
kin on two plates, and pour half into each, let them
stand twelve hours and put them on a fresh wet pap-
kin in one plate, and cover with the same; this do eve-
ry twelve hours until you find the cheese begins to
look dry, then ripen it with nut leaves; it will be rea-
dy in ten days.
Fresh neltles, or two pewter plates will ripen cream-
cheese very well.
Observations respecting Butter.
There is no one article of family consumption more in
use, of greater variety in goodness, or that is of more
consequence to have of a superior quality, than this, and
the ecouomising of which is more necessary. The
sweetness of butter is not affected by the cream being
turned of which it is made. When cows are in turnips,
or eat cabbages, the taste is very disagreeable, and -
the following ways have been tried with advantage to
obviate it :-
When the milk is strained into the pans, put to every
six gallons one gallon of boiling water. Or dissolve one
ounce of nitre in a pint of spring water, and put a quar-
ter of a pint to every fifteen gallons of milk. Or when
you churn, keep back a quarter of a pint of the sour
cream, and put it into a well-scalded pot, into which
you are to gather the next cream; stir that well, and
do so with every fresh addition.
To make Butter.
During summer, skim the mill when the sun has
not heated the dairy : at that scason it should stand
for butter twenty-four hours without skimming, and


286
DAIRY.
forty-eight in winter. Deposit the cream -pot in a very
cold cellar, if your dairy is not more so. If
you
not charn daily, change it into scalded fresh pots ;
bat never omit charning twice a week. If possible,
put the churn in a thorough air; and if not a barrel
one, set it in a tub of water two feet deep, which
will give firmness to the butter. When the butter
is come, pour off the butter milk, and put the bat-
ter into a fresh-scalded pan, or tabs which have af-
terwards been in cold water. Pour water on it, and
let it lie to acquire some hardness before you work
it; then change the water, and beat it with dat boards
so perfectly that not the least taste of the buttermilk
remain, and that the water, which must be often chang-
ed, shall be quite clear in colour. Then work some
salt into it, weigh and make it into forms ; throw them
into cold water, in an earthen pan and cover of the
queens ware. You will then have very nice and cool
batter in the hottest weather. It requires more work..
ing in hot than in-cold weather; but in neither should
be left with a particle of buttermilk, or a sour taste, as
is sometimes done.
To preserve Butter.
Take two parts of the best common salt, one part
good loaf-sugar and one part salt petre: beat them well
together. To sixteen ounces of batter thoroughly clean-
sed from the milk, put one ounce of this compsition ;
work it well, and put down when become firm and
cold.
The butter thas preserved is the better for keeking,
and should not be used ander a month. This article
should be kept from the air, and is best in pots of the
best glazed earth, that will hold from ten to fourteen
pounds cach.
To preserve Butter for Winter the best way.
When the butter has been prepared as above direc-
ted; take two parts of the best common salt, one part
of good loaf sugar, and one part of salt petre, beaten
and blended well tegether: of this compsition pat


DAIRY,
287
gne ounce to sixteen ounces of butter, and work it well
together in a mass. Press it into the pans after the but-
ter has become cool; for friction, though it be pot touch-
ed by the hands, will soften it. The pans should hold
ten or twelve pounds each. On the top put some salt ;
and when that is turned to brine, if not enough to cover
the Inutter entirely, add some strong salt and water. It
requires only then to be covered from the dust. with
To manage Cream for Whey Buller.
Set the whey one day and night, skim it, and so till
you have enough ; then boil it, and pour it into a pan
or two of cold water. As the cream rises, skim it till
.no more comes; then churn it. Where new-milk cheese
is made daily, whey butter for common and present use
may be made to advantage.
To scald Cream, as in the West of England.
In winter let the cream stand twenty-four hours, in
the summer twelve at least; then put the milk-pau on a
hot hearth, if you have one; if not, set it in a wide brass
kettle of water large enough to receive the pan. It must
remain on the fire till quite hot, but on no account boil,
or there will be a skin instead of cream upon the milk.
You will know when done enough, by the undulations
on the surface looking thick, and having a ring round
the pan the size of the bottom. The time required to
scald cream depends on the size of the pan and the heat
of the fire; the slower the better. Remove the pan ini
to the dairy when done, and skim it next day. In cold
- weather it may stand thirty-six hours, and never less
than two meals.
The butter is usually made in Devonshire of cream
thus prepared, and if properly, it is
Buttermilk,
If made of sweet cream, is a delicious and most whole-
some food. Those who can relish sour buttermilk, find
it still more light; and it is reckoned more beneficial in
consumptive cases.
Buttermilk, if not very sour, is also as good as cream
to eat with fruit, # sweetened with white sugar, and
very firm.


288
DAIRS.
mixed with a very little milk. It likewise does equally
for makes and rice puddings, and of course it is econa-
mical to churn before the cream is too stale for any thing
but to feed pigs.
To keep Milk and Cream.
Io hot weather, when it is difficult to preserve milk
froun becoming sour, and spoiling the cream, may be kept
perfectly sweet by scarding the new-milk very gently,
without hoiling, and setting it by in the earthentich or
par that is done in. This method is pursued in Devon-
shire; and for butter, and eating, would equally answer
in small quantities for coffee, tea, &c. Cream alrea:ly
skimmed may be kept twenty-four hours if scalled with-
out sugar; anil by adding to it as much powilereu lump-
sugar as shall make it pretty sweet, will be good two
days, keeping it in a cool place.
Syrup of Cream
May be preserved as above in the proportion of a pound
and a quarter of sugar to a pint of perfectly fresh cream ;
keep in a cool place for two or three hours ; then put it
into one or two ounce phials, and cork it close. It will
keep yood thns for several weeks, and will be found very
useful in voyages.
Gallino Curds and Whey, as in Italy.
Take a number of the roagh coats that line the giz-
zards of turkeys and towis ; clean them from the peb-
bles they contain ; rub them well with salt, and hang
to dry.
7 his makes a more tender and delicate cord
then common rennet, When to be used, break of some
bits of the skin, and put on it some boiling water: in
eight or nine hours use the liquor as you do other ren-
net.
To choose Butler at Market.
Put a knife into the butter if salt, and smell it when
draw! 0:!1; if there is any thing rancid or unpleasant,
it is bail. Peing made at different times, the layers in
ca. ks wili vary greatly, and you will not easily come at
the goodue:s but by unlooping the cask, and trying it
.


292
POULTRY-YARD.
and when it is considered how far a pound of rice will
go, and how much time is saved by this mode, it will
be found to be as cheap as barley meal, or more so.-
The pen should be daily cleaned, and no food given for
sixteen hoars before poultry be killed.
To choose Eggs at Market, and to preserve them.
Put the large end of the egg to your tongue ; if it
feels warm it is new. In new laid eggs there is a small
division of the skin from the shell, which is filled with
air, and is perceptible to the eye at the end. On look-
ing through them against the sun or a candle, if fresh,
eggs will be pretty clear. If they shake they are not
fresh.
Egge may be preserved fresh by dipping them in
boiling water and instantly taking them out, or by oil-
ing the shell ; either of which ways is to prevent the
air passing through it: or kept on shelves with small
holes to receive one in each, and be turned every other
day; or close packed in a keg, and covered with strong
lime-water.
Feathers.
In towns, poultry being usually sold ready-picked,
the feathers, which may occasionally come in small
quantities, are neglected ; bat orders should be given
to put them into a tub free from damp, and as they dry
to change them into paper bags, a few in each ; they
should hang in a dry kitchen to seagon ; fresh ones must
not be added to those in part dried, or they will occa-
sion a musty smell, but they should go through the
same process. In a few months they will be fit to add
to beds, or to make pillows, without the usual mode of
drying them in a cool oven, which may be pursued if
they are wanted before five or six months.
Ducks
Generally begin to lay in the month of February.--
Their eggs should be daily taken away except one till
they seem inclined to sit; then leave them and see that
there are enough. They require no attention while
sitting, except to give them food at the time they come


POULTRY-YARD.
293
but to seek it; and there should be water placed at a
moderate distance from them, that their eggs may not
be spoiled by their long absence in seeking it. Twelve
or thirteen eggs are enough: in an early season it is
best to set them under a hen, and then they can be kept
from water till they have a little strength to bear it,
which in very cold weather they cannot do so well.
They should be put under cover, especially in a wet
reason, for though water is the natural element of ducks,
yet they are apt to be killed by the cramp before they
are covered with feathers to defend them.
Ducks should be accustomed to feed and rest at one
place, which would prevent their straggling too far to
lay. Places near the water to lay in, are advantageous;
and these might be small woolen houses, with a parti-
tion in the middle, and a door at each end. They eat
any thing; and when to be fattened, must have plenty,
however coarse, and in three weeks they will be fat.
Gees.
Require little expense; as they chiefly support therr
selves in commons or in lanes, where they can get wa-
ter. The largest are esteemed best, as also are the
white and grey. The pied and dark-coloured are not
so good. Thirty days are generally the time the goose
sits, but in warm weather she will sometimes hatch
sooner. Give them plenty of food, such as scalded bran
and light oats and as soon as the goslings are hatched,
keep them housed for eight or ten days, and feed them
with barley-meal, bran, curds, &c. For green geese,
begin to fatten them at six or seven weeks old, and feed
them as above. Stubble geese require no fattening if
they have the run of good fields.
Turkeys
Are very tender when young. As soon as hatched, put
three pepper-corns down their throat. Great care is
necessary to their well-being, because the hen is so
Gareless that she will walk about with one chick, and
teave the remainder, or even tread upon and kill them.
Turkeys are violent eaters; and must therefore be left
AA 2


POULTRY-YARD.
295
impels the hen to keep them out of his way till the fea-
thers rise.
Guinea Hens
Lay a great number of eggs: and if you can discover
the nest, it is best to put them under common hens,
which are better nurses. They require great warmth,
quiet and careful feeding with rice swelled with milk,
or bread soaked in it. Put two pepper-corns down their
throat when first hatched.
Pigeons
Bring two young ones at a time: and breed every
month, if well looked after, and plentifully fed. They
should be kept very clean, and the bottom of the dove.
cote be strewed with sand once a month at least. Tares
and white peas are their proper food. They should
have plenty of fresh water in their house, Starlings
and other birds are apt to come among them, and suck
the eggs. Vermin likewise are their great enemies,
and destroy them. If the breed should be too small, put
a few tame pigeons of the common kind, and of their own
colour, among them. Observe not to have too large a
proportion of cock-birds : for they are quarrelsome, and
will soon thin the dove-cote.
Pigeons are fond of salt, and it keeps them in health.
Lay a large heap of clay near the house, and let the
sali-brine that may be done with in the family be pour-
ed upon it.
Bay salt and cummin seeds mixed, is a universal re-
medy for the diseases pigeons. The back and breasts
are sometimes scabby: in which case, take a quarter of
a pound of bay salt, and as much common salt, a pound
of fennel seeds, a pound of dill seed, as much cummin
seed, and an ounce of assafoetida ; mix all with a little
wheaten flour, and some fine worked clay ; when all are
well beaten together, put it into two earthen pots, and
bake them in the oven. when cold put them on the ta-
ble in the dove-cote ; the pigeons will eat it, and thus
be cured.


296
$ICK COOKERY.
Rabbits.
The wild ones have the finest flavour, unless great
care is taken to keep the tame delicately clean. The
tame one bringy forth every month, and must be allowed
to go with the buck as soon as she has kindled. The
sweetest hay, oats, beans, sow-thistle, parsley, carrot-
tops, cabbage leaves, and bran, fresh and fresh, should
be given to them. If not very well attended, their stench
will destroy themselves, and be very unwholesome to
all who live near them ; but attention will prevent this
inconvenience.
COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND FOR THE POOR.
SICK COOKERY.
General Remarks.
The following pages will contain cookery for the sick :
it being of more consequence to support those whose
bad appetite will not allow them to take the necessary
pourishment, than to stimulate that of persons in health.
It may not he unnecessary to advise that a choice be
made of the things most likely to agree with the pa-
tient; that a change be provided ; that some one at
least be always ready ; that not too much of those be
made at once which are not likely to keep, as invalids
require variety; and that they should succeed each
other in different forms and flavours.
A clear Broth that will keep long.
Put the mouse-round of beef, a knuckle-bone of
veal, and a few shanks of mutton, into a deep pan, and
cover close with a dish or coarse crust; bake till the
beef is done enough for eating, with only as much wa-
ter as will cover. When cold, cover it close in a cool
place. When to be used, give what favour may be
approved.


SICK COOKERY.
297
A quick made Broth.
Take a bone or two of the neck or loin of mutton,
take off the fat and skin, set it on the fire in a small tin
sauce pan that has à cover, with three quarters of a
pint of water, the meat being first beaten, and cut in
ihin bits : put a bit of thyme and parsley, and, if ap-
proved, a slice of onion. Let it boil very quick, skim
it nicely : take off the cover, if likely to be too weak;
else cover it. Half an hour is sufficient for the whole
process.
A very supporting Broth against any kind of weakness.
Boil two pounds of loin of mutton, with a very large
handful of chervil, in two quarts of water to one. Take
off part of the fat. Any other herb or roots may be ad-
ded. Take half a pint three or four times a day.
A very nourishing Veal Broth.
Put the knuckle of a leg or shoulder of veal, with very
little meat to it, an old fowl, and four shank bones of
multon extremely well soaked and bruised, three blades
of mace, ten pepper-corns, an onion, and a large bit of
bread, and three quarts of water, into a stew-pot that
covers close, and simmer in the slowest manner after it
has boiled up, and been skimmed ; or bake it ; strain,
and take off the fat. Salt as wanted. It will require
four hours.
Broth of Beef, Mutton, and Veal.
Put two pounds of lean beef, one pound of scrag of
veal, one pound of scrag of mutton, sweet herbs, and ten
pepper-coins, into a nice tin saucepan, with five quarts
of water, simmer to three quarts, and clear from the fat
when cold. Add one onion if approved.
Soup and broth made of different meats, are more
supporting, as well as better flavoured.
To remove the fat, take it off when cold as clean as
possible; and if there be still any remaining, lay a bit of
clean blotting or cap paper on the broth when in the
basin, and it will take up every particle.


498
SICK COOKERY.
Calves' Feet Broth.
Boil two feet in three quarts of water, to half; strain
and set it by ; when to be used, take off the fat, put a
large tea-cupful of the jelly into a saucepan, with half
a glass of sweet wine, a little sugar and nutmeg, and
heat it up till it be really to boil, then take a litile of it,
and beat by degrees to the yolk of an egg, and adding a
bit of butter, the size of a nutmeg, stir all together,
but do no let it boil. Grate a bit of fresh lemon peel
into it.
Another.-Boil two calves' feet, two ounces of vea),
and two of beef, the bottom of a penny-loaf, two or three
blades of mace, half a nutmeg sliced, and a little salt, in
three quarts of water, to three pints ; strain and take
off the fat.
ܪ
Chicken Broth.
Put the body and legs of the fowl that chicken-pa-
pada was made of, as in page 300, after taking off the
skin and rump, into the water it was boiled in, with
one blade of mace, one slice of onion, and ten white
pepper-corns. Simmer till the broth be of a pleasant
flavour. If not water enough, add a little. Beat a quar-
ter of an ounce of sweet almonds with a tea-spoonful of
water, fine, boil it in the broth, strain, and when cold,
remove the fat.
Eel Broth.
Clean half a pound of small eels, and set them on with
three pints of water, some parsley, one slice of onion,
a few pepper-corns ; let them simmer till the eel's
are broken, and the broth good. Add salt, and strain
it off.
The above should make three half-pints of broth.
Beef Tea.
Cut a pound of fleshy beef in thin slices; simmer with
a quart of water twenty minutes, after it has once hoil-
ed, and been skimmed. Season, if approved; but it has
generally only salts.


GICK
292
COOKERY.
r. Ratcliff's Restorative Pork Jelly.
Take a leg of well-fed pork, just as cut up, beat it,
and break the bone. Set it over a gentle fire, with
three gallons of water, and simmer to one. Let half
an ounce of mace, and the same of nutmegs, stew in
it. Strain through a fine sieve. When cold, take
off the fat. Give a chocolate-cup the first and last
thing, and at poon, putting salt to taste.
Shank Jelly.
Soak twelve shanks of mutton four hours, then brush
and scour them very clean. Lay them in a saucepan
with three blades of mace, an onion, twenty Jamaica
and thirty or forty blak peppers, a bunch of sweet
herbs ; and a crust of bread made very brown by toast-
ing. Pour three quarts of water to them, and set them
on a hot hearth close covered : let them simmer as gent-
ly as possible for five hours, then strain it off, and put
it in a cold place.
This may have the addition of a pound of beef, if
approved, for flavour. It is a remarkable good thing
för people who are weak.
Arrow-root Jelly.
Of this beware of having the wrong sort, for it has
been counterfeited with bad effect. If genuine, it is
very nourishing, especially for weak bowels. Put into
a saucepan half a pint of water, a glass of sherry or a
spoonful of brandy, grated nutmeg, and fine sugar :
boil once up, then mix it by degrees into a dessert-
spoonful of arrow-root, previously rubbed smooth with
two spoonfuls of cold water: then return the whole in.
to the saucepan; stir and boil it three minutes.
Tapioca Jelly.
Choose the largest sort, pour cold water on to wash
it two or three times, then soak it in fresh water five.
or six hours, and simmerit in the same until it becomes
quite clear; then put lemon-juice, wine, and sugar.
The peel should have been boiled in it. It thickens
yery much.


SICK COOKERY,
301
Eggs.
An egg broken into a cup of tea, or beaten and mixed
with a basin of milk, makes a breakfast more support-
ing than a tea solely.
An egg divided, and the yolk and white beaten se-
parately, then mixed with a glass of wine, will afford
two very wholesome draughts, and prove lighter than
when taken together.
Eggs very little boiled, or poached, taken in small
quantity, convey much nourishment; the yolk only,
when dressed, should be eaten by invalids.
A great Restorative.
Bake two calves feet in two pints of water, and the
same quantity of new milk, in a jar close covered,
three hours and a half. When cold remove the fat.
Give a large tea cup-ful the last and first thing. What-
ever flavour is approved, give it by baking in it lemon
peel, cinnamon, or mace. Add sugar after.
Another.—Simnier six sheeps' trotters, two blades of
mace, a little cinnamon, lemon peel, a few hartshorn
shavings, and a little isinglass, in two quarts of water
to one, when cold, take off the fat, and give near half a
pint twice a day, warming with a little new milk,
Another.-Boil one ounce of isipglass shavings, forty
Jamaica peppers,a nd a bit of brown crust of bread in a
quart of water to a pint, and strain it.
This makes a pleasant Jelly to keep in the house;
which a large spoonful may be taken in wine and wa-
ter, milk, tea, soup or any way.
Another, a most pleasant draught.-Boil one quarter
of an ounce of isinglass shavings with a pint of new milk,
to half : add a bit of sugar, and, for change, a bitter
alınond,
Give this at bed time, not too warm.
Dutch flummery, blamange, and jellies, as directed
in pages 207, 208, and 215, or less rich according to
judgment.
Caudle.
Make a fine smooth gruel of half-grits; strain it when
BB


302
SICK COOKEKY.
boiled well, stir it at times till cold. When to be used,
add sugar, wine, and lemon peel, with nutmeg. Some
like a spoonful of brandy, besides the wine; others like
lemon juice.
Another.-Boil up half a pint of fine gruel, with a bit
of butter the size of a large nutmeg, a large spoonful
of brandy, the same of white wine, one of capillaire, a
bit of lemon-peel and nutmeg.
Another.-Into a pint of fine gruel, not thick, put,
while it is boiling hot, the yolk of an egg beaten with
sugar, and mixed with large spoonful of cold water, a
glass of wine, and nutmeg. Mix by degrees. It is
very agreeable and nourishing. Some like gruel, with
a glass of table beer, sugar, &c. with or without a tea-
spoonful of brandy.
Cold Caudle.
Boil a quart of spring water; when cold, add the
yolk of an egg, the juice of a small lemon, six spoonfuls.
of sweet wine, sugar to your taste, and syrup of lemons
one ounce.
A Flour Caudle.
Into five large spoonfuls of the purest water, rules
smooth one dessert spoonful of fine flour. Set over the
fire five spoonfuls of new milk, and put two bits of su-
gar into it: the moment it boils, pour into it the flour
and water, and stir it over a slow fire twenty minutes.
It is a nourishing and gently astringent food. This is
an excellent food for babies who have weak bowels.
Rice Caudle.
When the water boils, pour into it some grated rice
mixed with a little cold water; when of a proper con-
sistence, add sugar, lemon peel, and cinnamon, and a
glass of brandy.to a quart. Boil all smooth.
Another.-Soak some Carolina rice in water an hour,
strain it, and put two spoonfuls of the rice into a pint
and a quart of milk; simmer till it will pulp through
ą sieve, then put the pulp and milk into the saucepan
with a bruised clove and a bit of white sugar. Simmer
ten minutes ; if too thick, add a spoonful or two of milk:
and serve with thin toast.


SICK COOKERY
303
To muil Wine.
Boil some spice in a little water till the flavour is
gained, then add an equal quantity of port, some su-
gar and nutmeg ; boil together, and serve with toast.
Another way.—Boil a bit of cinnamon and some grat-
ed nutmeg a few minutes, in a large tea cupful of wa-
ter; then pour to it a pint of port wine, and add sugar
to your taste; beat it up, and it will be ready.
Or it may be made of good British wine.
7. Make Coffee.
Put two ounces of fresh ground coffee, of the best
quality, into a coffee pot, and pour eight coffee cups
of
boiling water on it ; let it boil six minutes, pour out a
cupful two or three times, and return it again; then
put two or three isinglass chips into it, and pour one
large spoonful of boiling water on it; boil it five mi-
butes more, and set the pot by the fire to keep hot for
ten minutes, and you will have coffee of a beautiful
clearness.
Fine cream should always be served with coffee,
and either pounded sugar candy, or fine Lisbon sugar.
If for foreigners, or those who like it extremely
strong, make only eight dishes from three ounces. If
not fresh roasted, lay it before a fire until perfectly hot
and dry; or you may put the smallest bit of fresh butter
into a preserving pan of a small size, and, when hot,
throw the coffee in it, and toss it about until it be fresh-
ened, letting it be cold before ground.
Coffee Milk.
Boil a dessert spoonful of ground coffee, in nearly
a pint of milk, a quarter of an hour; then put into it a
shaving or two of isinglass, and clear it; let it boil a
few minutes, and set it on the side of the fire to grow
fine.
This is a very fine breakfast; it should be sweetened
with real Lisbon sugar of a good quality.
Chocolate.
Those who use much of this article, will find the


SICK COOKERY.
307
A most pleasant Drink.
Put a tea-cupful of cranberries into a cup of water,
and mash them. In the meantime boil two quarts of
water with one large spoonful of oatmeal, and a bit of
lemon-peel; then add the cranberries, and as much fine
Lisbon sugar as shall leave a smart flavour of the fruit;
and a quarter of a pint of sherry, or less, as may be
proper: boil all for half an hour, and strain off.
Soft and fine Draught for those who are weak and have a
Cough,
Beat a fresh laid egg, and mix it with a quarter of a
pint of new milk warmed, a large spoonful of capillaire,
the same of rose-water, and a little nutmeg scraped.
Do not warm it after the egg is put in. Take it the first
and last thing
Toast and Water.
Toast slowly a thin piece of bread till extremely
brown and hard, but not the least black; then plunge
it into a jug of cold water, and cover it over an hour
before used. This is of ticular use in weak bowels.
It should be of a finé brown colour before drinking it.
Barley waler.
Wash a handful of common barley, then simmrer it
gently in three pints of water with a bit of lemon-peel.
This is less apt to nauseate than pearl barley; but
the other is a very pleasant drink.
Another way.-Boil an ounce of pearl barley a few
minutes to cleanse, then put on it a quart of water,
simmer an hour, when half done, put into it a bit of
fresh lemou-peel, and one bit of sugar. If likely to be
too thick, you may put another quarter of a pint of
water. Lemon-juice may be added, if chosen.
Lemon-water, a delightful Drink.
Pat two slices of lemon thinly pared into a tea-poti,
a little bit of the peel, and a bit of sugar, or a large
spoonful oi capillaire ; pour in a pint of boiling water,
3id stop it close two hours.


SICK COOKERY.
309
juice as will make a small quantity quite clear, dilute
with hot water to an agreeable smart acid, and put a
bit or two of sugar. This is less heating than if made
of wine; and if only to excite perspiration, answers as
well.
Buttermilk, with Bread or without.
It is most wholesome when sour, as being less likely
to be heavy; but most agreeable when made of sweet
cream,
Dr. Boerhave's sweet Buttermilk.
Take the milk from the cow into a small churn, of
about a six shillings price; in about ten minutes begiu
churning, and continue till the Aakes of butter swiin
about pretty thick, and the milk is discharged of all the
greasy particles, and appears thin and blue. Strain it
through a sieve, and drink it as frequently as possible.
It should form the whole of the patient's drink, and
the iood should be buiscuits and rusks in every way and
sort; ripe and dried fruits of various kinds, when a de-
eline is apprehended.
Baked and dried fruits, raisins in particular, make
excellent suppers for invalids, with biscuits, or common
cake.
Orgeat.
Beat two ounces of almonds with a tea-spoonful of
orange-flowerwater, and a bitter almond or two; then
pour a quart of milk and water to the taste. Sweeten
with sugar or capillaire. This is a fine drink for those
who have a tender chest; and in the gout it is highly
useful, and with the addition of half an ounce of gum
arabic, has been found to allay the painfulness of the
attendant heat. Half a glass of brandy may be added
if thought too cooling in the latter co:nplaints, and the
glass of orgeat, for coinpany, is in page 229.
Orangeade, or Lemonade.
Squeese the juice; pour boiling water on a little of
the peel, and cover close. Boil water and sugar to a
thin syrup, and skim it. When all are cold, mix the


310
COOKERY FOR THE POOR.
juice, the infusion, and the syrup, with as much more
water as will make a rich sherbet ; strain through a
jelly-bag. Or squeese the juice, and strain it and add
water and capitaire.
Egg Wine.
Beat an egg, mix it with a spoonful of cold water ;
set on the fire a glass of white wine, half a glass of
water, sugar, and nutmeg. When it boils, pour a little
of it to the egg by degrees, till the whole be in, stir-
ring it well; then return the whole into the saucepan,
put it on a gentle fire, stir it one way for not more than
a minute ; for if it boil, or the egg be stale, it will cur-
dle. Serve with toast.
Egg wine may be made as above, without warming
the egg, and it is then lighter on the stomach, thougla
not so pleasant to the taste.
COOKERY FOR THE POOR.
General Remarks and Hints.
I promised a few hints, to enable every family to
sist the poor of their neighbourhood at a very trivial
expense; and these may be varied or amended at the
discretion of the mistress.
Where cows are kept, a jug of skimmed milk is a
valuable present, and a very common one.
When the oven is hot, a large pudding may be bak.
ed, and given to a sick or young family; and thus made,
the trouble is little :-Into a deep coarse pan put half
a pound of rice, four ounces of coarse sugar or tricle,
two quarts of milk, and two ounces of dripping ; set it
cold into the oven. It will take a good while, but be
an excellent solid food.
A very good meal may be bestowed in a thing called
brewis, which is thus made :-Cut a very thick upper
crust of bread, and put it into the pot where salt beef
is boiling and near ready; it wi!l attract some of the
fat, and when swelled out, will be no unpalatable di
to those who rarely taste, ineat:


VARIOUS RECEIPTS.
313
par with four ounces of rice, one onion, twenty Ja-
maica peppers, and twenty black, a turnip, a carrot,
and four gallons of water; cover with brown paper, and
bake six hours.
Sago.
Put a tea-cupful of sago into a quart of water, and a
bit of lemon-peel ; when thickened, grate some ginger,
and add half a pint of raisin wine, brown sugar, and
two spoonfuls of Geneva; boil all up tegether.
It is a most supporting thing for those whom disease
bas left
very
feeble.
Caudle for the sick and lying in.
Set three quarts of water on the fire; mix smooth as
much oatmeal as will thicken the whole, with a pint of
cold water : when boiling, pour the latter in, and twea-
ty Jamaica peppers in fine powder; boil to a good inid-
dling thickness ; then add sugar, half a pint of well fer-
mented table-beer, and a glass of gin. Boil all.
This mess twice, and once or twice of broth, will be
of incalculable service.
There is not a better occasion for charitable commise-
ration than when a person is sick. A bit of meat or
pudding sent unexpectedly has often been the means of
recalling long lost appetite.
Nor are the indigent alone the grateful receivers ; for
in the highest houses a real good sick-cook is rarely met
with; and many who possess all the goods of fortune,
have attributed the first return of health to an appetite
excited by good kitchen physick, as it is called.
VARIOUS RECEIPTS, AND DIRECTIONS
TO SERVANTS.
VARIOUS RECEIPTS.
To make soft Pomatum.
Beat half a pound of unsalted fresh lard in common
water; then soak and beat it in two rose-waters, drain
сс


314
VARIOUS RECEIPTS.
i, and beat it with two spoonfuls of brandy; let it draiu
frow this : add to it some essence of lemun, and keep it
in small pots.
Another way.-Soak half a pound of clear beef-mar-
rom, and a pound of unsalted fresh lard, in water, two
or three days, changing and beating it every day, Put
it into a seive; and when dry, into a jar, and the jar
into a sausepan of water. When melted, pour it into a
basin, and beat it with two spoonfuls of brandy; drain
off the brandy; and then add essence of lemon, bergamot,
or any other scent that is liked.
Hard Pomatum.
Prepare equal quantities of beef-marrow and mutton-
suet as before, using the brandy to preserve it, and
adding the scent; then pour it into moulds, or, if you
have nune, into phials of the size you choose the rolls to
be of. When cold, break the bottles, clear away the
glass carefully, and put paper round the rolls.
To make Wash-balls.
Shave thin two pounds of new white soap into about
a tea-cup full of rose water; then pour as much boiling
water on as will soften it. Put into a brass pan a pint
of sweet oil, four pennyworth of oil of almonds, halfa
pound of spermaceti, and set all over the fire till dis-
solved ; then add the soap, and half an ounce of cam-
phor that has first been reduced to powder by rubbing
it in a mortar with a few drops of spirit of wine, or
lavender-water, or any other scent. Boil ten minutes;
then pour it into a basin, and stir till quite thick
enough to roll up into hard balls, which must then be
done as soon as possible. If essence is used, stir it in
quick after it is taken off the fire, that the flavour may
not fly off.
Paste for Chapped Hands, and which wsll preserve them
smooth by constant use.
Mix a quarter of a pound of unsalted hog's lard, which
has been washed in common and then rose-water, with
the yolks of two new haid eggs, and a large spoonful of


VARIOUS RECEIPTS.
315
honey. Add as much fine oatmeal, or almond-paste, as
will work into a paste.
For Chopped Lips.
Put a quarter of an ounce of benjamin, storax, and
spermaceti, two penny.worth of alkanet root, a large
juicy apple chopped, a bunch of black grapes bruised, a
quarter ot' a pound of unsalted butter, and two ounces
of bees-wax, into a new tin saucepan. Simmer gently
till the wax, &c. are dissolved, and then strain it through
a linen. When cold melt it again, and pour it inte
small pots or hoxes; or if to make cakes, use the bot-
toms of tea cups.
Hungary Water.
To one pint of highly rectified spirit of wine, put an
ounce of oil of rosemary, and two drains of essence of
ambergris ; shake the bottle well several times, then let
the cork renain out twenty-four hours. After a month
during which time shake it daily, put the water into
small bottles.
Honey Water.
Take a pint of spirit as above, and three drams of
essence of ambergris; shake them well daily.
Larender Water.
Take a pint of spirit as above, essential oil of laven-
der one ounce, essence of ambergris two drams; put
all into a quart bottle, and shake it extremely well.
An excelleat Water to prerent Hair from falling off, and
to thicken it.
Put four pounds of unadulterated honey into a still
with twelve handfuls of the tendrils of vines, and the
same quantity of rosemary tops. Distil as cool and ap
slowly as possible. The liquor may be allowed to drop
till it begins to taste sour.
Black Paper for drawing Patterns.
Mix and smooth lamp-black and sweet oil, with a
bit of flannel, cover a sheet or two of large writing pa-
per with this mixture, then daub the paper dry with a
bit of fine linnen, and keep it for using in the following
manner:


VARIORS RECEIPTS.
317
do; but each must be dry before the next be put on.--
"The month of March is the best season for doing this.
Mason's Washes for Stucco.
Blue.- Tofour pounds of blue vitriol, and a pound of
the best whiting, put a gallon of water, in an iron or brass
pot. Let it boil an hour stirring it all the time. Then
pour it into an earthen pan; and set it by for a day or
two till the colour is settled. Pour off the water, and
mix the colour with whitewasher's size. Wash the walls
three or four times, according as is necessary.
Yellow.—Dissolve in soft water over the fire equal
quantities separately of umber, bright oker, and blue
black. Then put into as much whitewash as you think
sufficient for the work, some of each, and stir it all to-
gether. If either cast predominates, add more of the
others till you have the proper tint.
The most beautiful whitewash is made by mixing the
lime and size with skimmed milk instead of water.
Roman Cement or Mortar, for outside plastering or brick
work.
This will resist all weather; and may be used to great
advantage to lime reservoirs, as no water can penetrate
it.
Take eighty-tour pounds of drift sand, twelve pounds
of unslacked lime, and four pounds of the poorest cheese
grated through an iron grater. When well mixed, add
enough hot, (but not boiling) water to make into a pro-
per consistence for plastering, such a quantity of the
above as is wanted. It requires very good and quick
working. One hod of this mortar will go a great way,
as it is to be laid on in a thin smooth coat, without the
least space being left uncovered. The wall or lathwork
should be covered first with hair and lime mortar, and
well dried. This was used by the ancients, and is now
adopted among us. The Suffolk cheese does better than
any other of this country.
To take Stains of any kind out of Linen.
Slains croused bej Acids.-Wet the parts and lay on it
cc2


318
VARIOUS RECEIPTS.
some salt of wormwood. Then rub it without diluting
it with more water.
Another --Let the cloth imbibe a little water without
dipping, and hold the part over a lighted match at a due
distance. The spots will be removed by the sulphure-
ons gas.
Another way.-Tie up in the stained part some pearl-
ash; then scrape some soap into cold soft water to
make a lather, and boil the linen till the stain disap-
pears.
Stains of Wine, Fruit, &c. after they have been long in
the Linen-Rub the part on each side with yellow soap.
Then lay on a mixture of starch in cold water very thick;
rub it well in, and expose the linen to the sun and air
till the stain comes out. If not removed in three or four
days, rub that off, and renew the process. When dry,
it may be sprinkled with a little water.
Many other stains may be taken out by dipping the
linen in sour buttermilk, and drying in a hot sun. Then
, wash it in cold water, and dry it, two or three times a
day.
Iron-moulds should be wetted, then laid on a hot
water-plate, and a little essential salt of lemons put on
the part. If the linen become dry, wet it and renew
the process; observing that the plate is kept boiling bot.
Much of the powder sold under the name of salt of lem-
ons is a spurious preparation ; and therefore it is neces.
sary to dip the linen in a good deal of water, and wash
it as soon as the stain is removed, to prevent the part
from being worn into holes by the acid.
To take out Mildeu).-Mix soft soap with starch pow-
dered, half as much salt, and the juice of a lemon; lay
it on the part on both sides with a painter's brush. Let
it lie on the grass day and night till the satin comes out.
To make Flannels keep their colour and not shrink.
Put them into a pail, and pour boiling water on, let-
ting them lie till cold, the first time of washing.
To preserve Furs and Woollen from Moths.
Let the former be occasionally combed while in 'ise


DIRECTIONS TO SERVANTS.
321
I properly done, the curtains will look nearly as well
as at first : and if the colour be not light, they will not
require washing for years.
Fold in large parcels, and put carefully by.
While the furniture remains up, it should be pre-
served from the sun and air as much as possible, which
injure delicate colours ; and the dust may be blown off
with bellows.
By the above mode curtains may keep clean, even
to use with the linens newly dipped.
To clean Plate.
Boil an ounce of prepared hartshorn-powder in a
quart of water; while on the fire, put into it as much
plate as the vessel will hold ; let it boil a little, then take
it out, drain it over the saucepan, and dry it before the
fire. Put in more, and serve the same, till you have
done. Then put into the water some clean linen rags
till all be soaked up. When dry, they will serve to
clean the plate, and are the very best thinks to clean
the brass locks and finger-plates of doors. When the
plate is quite dry, it must be rubbed bright with leather.
This is a very nice mode. In many plate-powders there
is a mixture of quicksilver, which is very injurious ;
'and, among other disadvantages, it makes silver so brit-
tle, that from a fall it will break.
To clean Looking-glasses.
Remove the fly-stains, and other soil, by a damp-rag
then polished with woollen cloth and powder blue.
To preserve Gilding, and clean it.
It is not possible to prevent flies from staining the
gilding without covering it; before which, blow off the
light dust, and pass a feather or clean brush over it ;
then with strips of paper cover the frames of your glas-
ses, and do not remove till the flies are gone.
Linen takes off the gilding, and deadens its brightness;
it should therefore never be used for wiping it.
Some means should be used to clestroy the flies, as
they injure furniture of every kind, and the paper like-


322
DIRECTIONS TO SERVANTS.
wise. Bottles hung about with sugar and vinegar, or
beer will attract them; or fly-water, put into little shells
placed about the room, but out of the reach of children.
To clean Paint.
Never use a cloth, but take off the dust with a little
long-haired brush, after blowing off the loose parts with
the bellows. With care, paint will look well for a long
time. When soiled, dip a sponge or a bit of flannel
into soda and water, wash it off quickly, and dry im-
mediately, or the strength of the soda will eat off the
colour.
When wainscot requires scouring, it should be done
from the top downwards and the soda be prevented
from running on the unclean part as much as possible,
or marks will be made which will appear after the whole
is finished. One person should dry with old linen, as
fast as the other has scoured off the dirt ar.d washed
the soda off.
To clean Paper Hangings.
First blow off the dust with the bellows. Divide a
white loaf of eight days old into eight parts. Take the
crust into your hand, and beginning at the top of the
paper, wipe it downwards in the lightest manner with
the crumb. Do not cross, nor go upwards. The dirt
of the paper and the crumbs will fall together. Observe,
you must not wipe above half a yard at the stroke, and
after doing all the uppper part, go round again, begin.
ning a little above where you left off. If you do not do
it extremely lightly, you will make the dirt adhere to
the paper:
It will look like new if properly done.
To give a fine colour Mahogany.
Let the tables be washed perfectly clean with vine-
gar, having first taken out any ink stains there may be
with spirit of salt; but it must be used with the great-
est care, and only touch the part affected, and be ina
stantly washed off. Use the following liquid :-Into a
pint of cold-drawn linseed oil, put four-pensyworth of


DIRECTIOTS TO $ ERVANNS.
323
alkanat root, and two-pennyworth of rose-pink, in an
earthen vessel ; let it remain all night; then stirring well
rub some of it all over the tables with a linen rag; when
it has lain some time, rub it bright with linen cloths.
Eating tables should be covered with mat, oil cloth,
or baize, to prevent staining, and be instantly rubbed
when the dishes are taken off, while still warm.
To take Ink out of Mahogany.
Dilute half a tea-spoonful of oil of vitriol with a large
spoonful of water, and touch the part with a feather;
watch it, for if it stays too long it will leave a white
mark. It is therefore better to rub it quick, and re-
peat if not quite removed.
Floor Cloths
Should be chosen that are painted on a fine cloth, that
is, well covered with the colour, and the flowers on
which do not rise much above the ground, as they wear
out first. The durability of the cloth will depend much
on these two particulars, but more especially on the
time it has been painted, and the goodness of the co-
lours. If they have not been allowed sufficient space
for becoming thoroughly hardened, a very little use
will injure them: and as they are very expensive arti-
cles, care in preserving them is necessary. It answers
to keep them some time before they are used, either
hung up in a dry barn where they will have air, or laid
down in a spare room.
When taken up for the winter, they should be rolled
round a carpet-roller, and observe not to crack the
paint by turning the edges in too suddenly.
Old carpets answer extremely well, painted and sea-
soned some months before laid down. If for passages,
the width must be directed when they are sent to the
manufactory, as they are cut before painting.
To clean Floor-Cloths.
Sweep, then wipe them with a flannel; and when all
qust and spots are removed, rab with a waxed flannel


324
DIRECTIONS TO SERVANTS.
and then with a dry plain one; but use little wax, and
ruh only enough with the latter to give a little smooth-
ness or it may endanger falling.
Washing now and then with milk, alter the above
sweeping and dry-rubbing them, gives as beautiful a
look, and they are less slipery.
To dust Carpets and Floors.
Sprinkle tea-leaves on them, then sweep carefully.
The former should not be swept frequently with a
whisk brush, as it wears them fast; only once a week
and the other times with the leaves and a hair-brush.
Fine carpets should be gently done with a hair hand-
brush, such as for clothes, on the knees.
To clean Carpets.
Take up the carpet, let it be well beaten, then laid
down, and brushed on both sides, with a hand-brush:
turn it the right side upwards, and scour it with px-gall
and soap and water, very clean, and dry it with linen
cloths. "Then lay it on grass, or hang it up to dry.
To give to Boards a beautful appearance.
After washing them very nicely clean with soda and
warm water, and a brush, wash them with a very large
sponge and clean water. Both times observe to leave
no spot untouched : and clean straight up and down, not
crossing from board to board; then dry with clean
cloths, rubbing hard up and down in the same way.
The floors should not be often wetted, but very tho-
roughly when done ; and once a week dry-rubbed with
hot sand, and a heavy brush, the right way of the boards,
The sides of siair or passages on which are carpets,
or floor-cloth, should be washed with a sponge instead
of linen or flannel, and the edges will not be soiled.-
Different sponges should be kept for the two above uses;
and those and the brushes should be well washed when
done with, and kept in dry places.
To extract Oil from Boards or Stone.
Make a strong lye of pearl-ashes and soft water; and


326
DIRECTIONS TO SERVANTS.
hog's lard, two drams of camphor sliced thin, till it is
dissolved: then take as much black-lead as will make
it of the colour of broken steel. Dip a rag into it, and
rub it thick on the stove, &c. and the steel will never
rust, even if wet. When it is to be used, the grease
must be washed off with hot water, and the steel be
dried before polishing.
To take Rust out of Steel.
Cover the steel with sweet oil well rubbed on it, and
in forty-eight hours use unslacked lime finely powder-
ed, to rub until all the rust disappears.
To clean the Back of the Grate, the inner Hearth, and
the fronts of Cast-Iron Stoves.
Boil about a quarter of a pound of the best black-lead,
with a pint of small beer, and a bit of soap the size of a
walnut. When that is melted, dip the painter's brush,
and wet the grate, having first brushed off all the soot
and dust ; than take a hard brush, and rub it till of a
beautiful brightness.
Another way to clean Cast-Iron and Black Hearths.
Mix black-lead and whites of eggs well beaten togeth-
er; dip a painter's brush, and wet all over, then rub it
bright with a hard brush,
To take the Black of the bright Bars of polished Stoves
in a few minutes.
Rub them well with some of the following mixture on
a bit of broad-cloth ; when the dirt is removed, wipe
them clean, and polish with glass, not sand-paper.
The Mixture. --Boil slowly one pound of soft soap in
two quarts of water to one. Of this jelly take three or
four spoonfuls, and mix to a consistence with emery,
No. 3.
To clean tin Covers, and patent pewter Porter-Pots.
Get the finest whiting, which is only sold in large
pakes, the small being mixed with sard ; mix a little of
# powdered, with the least drop of sweet ail, and rub


FAMILY BREWER.
327
well, and wipe clean ; then dust some dry whiting in a
mu:lin bag over, and rub bright with dry leather. The
Jast is to prevent rust, which the cook must be careful
to guard against by wiping dry, and putting by the fire
when they come from the parlour ; for if but once hung
up without, the steam will rust the inside.
To prevent the Creaking of a Door.
Rub a bit of soap on the hinges.
A strong Paste for Paper.
To two large spoonfuls of fine flour, put as much
pounded rosin as will lie on a shilling; mix with as much
strong beer as will make it oi a due consistence, and
boil half an hour. Let it be cold before it is used.
Fine Blarking for Shoes.
Take four ounces of ivory black, three ounces of the
coarsest sugar, a table-spoonful of sweet oil and a pint
of small beer; mix them gradually, cold.
THE COMPLETE
FAMILY BREWER.
The following pages being intended principally for
the use of private families, it will be necessary to begin
with directions.
How to choose good Malt.
Malt is chosen by its good smell, mellow taste, full
flower, round body and thin skin. There are two sorts
in general used, the pale, and the brown : the former
is most used in gentlemen's houses, and private families;
the latter in public brew-houses, as seeming to go fure
ther, and make the liquor high coloured : Qthers again
mix one third brown with two thirds pale ; but this de-


328
FAMILY BREWER.
pends upon the liking of the drinkers. The sweetesf
malt is that which is dryed with coak or cinders.
In grinding it, see that the mill be clean from dust,
cobwebs, &c. and set so as to crush every grain without
grinding it to powder ; for you, had better have some
small grains slip through untouched than have the whole
ground too small, which will cause it to take together,
so as you cannot get the goodness out of it.
Of Hops.
Hops are chosen by their bright green colour, sweet
smell, and clamminess, when rubbed between the
hands.
Of Water for Brewing.,
Water out of rivers or rivulets is the best, except pos
luted by the melting of snow or land water from clay
or plowed lands. Snow water will take near one fiſth
part more of malt to make the beer good. If you have
no river water, a pond that has a bottom not over mud-
dy, and is fed by a spring will do ; for the sun will soſten
and rarefy it. Very hard water drawn from a deep
well, into a wide cistern or reservoir, and exposed to
the air or sun, in two or three days has been brewed
with success, by the addition of malt. Rain water
comes next to river for brewing, in short, all water that
will raise a lather with soap, is good for brewiug.
of the Brewing Vessels.
To a copper that holds 36 gallons, the mash-tun ought
to be at least big enough to contain six bushels of malt,
and the copper of liquor, and room for mashing or stir-
ring it. The under back, coolers and working tuns,
may be rather fitted for the conveniency of the room,
than to a particular size; for if one vessel not sutfi.
*cient to hold your liquor, you may take a second.
Of cleaning and sweetening Casks and Brewing Vessels.
If a cask, after the beer is drank out, he well stopped
to keep out the air, and the less remaining in it till you


FAMILY, BREWER,
329
want to use it again, you will need only to scald it well;
and take care of the hoops before you fill it ; but if air
gets into a foul empty cask, it will contract an ili scent
in spite of scaldivg. A handful of bruised pepper boiled
in the water you scald with, will take out a little musty
smell ; but the surest way is to take out the head of the
cask, and let the cooper shave and burn it a little, and
then scald it for use; if you cannot conveniently have a
cooper to the cask, get some stone lime, and put about
three pounds into a barrel, and proportionally to
smaller or bigger vessels) and put to it about six gal-
lons of cold water, bung it up, and shake it about for
some time, and afterwards scald it well; or for want
of lime, take a linen rag, and dip it in welted brimstone,
and fasten one end to the bung, and light the other, and
let it hang on the cask. You must give it a little air,
else it will not burn; but keep in as much of the sal.
phur as you can. Scald it afterwards, and yon will find
no ill smell.
If you have new casks, before you fill them, dig places
in the earth, and lay them half their depth with their
bung holes downward, for a week; and after well scald-
ing them, you may venture to fill them,
Another way to proceed, if your brewing vessels are
tinged with any ill smell, is to take unslacked lime and
water, and with an old broom scrub the vessel whilst the
water is hissing, with the lime; and afterwards take all
this lime and water away, and put fresh water into the
vessel, and throw some bay or common salt into each,
and let it stand a day or two; and when you come to
brew, scald your vessels, throw into them a little malto
dust or bran; and this will not only finish their sweet
ening, but stop them from leaking.
But since there is so much trouble in getting vessels
sweet after they have been neglected, you ought to
make all thorough clean after brewing, and once a
month to fill your vessels with fair water, and let it aff
again in two or three days.
"Of Mashing or taking your liquors.
Suppose you take six bushets of malt, and two ponads!
D D 2


330
FAMILY BREWER.
of hops, and would make of it one barrel of strong and
two barrels of small beer.
Heat your first copper of liquor for mashing, and strew
over it a double handful of bran or mult; by which you
will see when it begins to boil ; for it will break aud
curl, aud then it is fit to be let off into the mash-tun,
where it must remain till the steam is quite spent, and
you cau see your face in it, before you put in your malt;
and then you begin to mash, stirring it all the while you
are putting in the malt; but keep out about half a bush-
el dry, which you are to strew over the rest, when
you have done stirring it, which will be as soon as you
have well mixed it with the liquor, and prevented it
from cloddivg.
After the dry malt is laid on, cover your mash-tub
with the sacks or cloths, to prevent losing any spirit of
the malt, and let it so remain for two hours. Mean
while have another copper of liquor hot ; and at two
hours end begin to let off your first wort into the under-
back. Receive a pailful of the first running, and throw
it again upon the mall. You will find that the malt
has gucked up half of your first copper of liqnor; and
therefore to make up your quantity of wort for your
strong beer, you must gradually lade out of the second
copper, and strew bowi after bowl over the malt, giv-
ing it time to soak through, and keeping it running by
an easy stream, till you perceive you have about forty
gallons, which in boiling and working will be reduced
to thirty-six.
If you throw into the under-back (whilst you are let-
ting off ) about half a pound of hops, it will preserve it
from foxing, or growing sour or ropy.
Your first wort being all'run ofi, you must soften the
tap of the mash-tun; and take a copper of hot liquor
for your second mashing, stirring up the malt as you
did at first, and then cover it close for two hours more.
Mean while you fill your oopper with the first wort,and
boil it with the remainder of the two pounds of hops,
for an hour and a half, and then lade it off into the
coolers.


332
FAMILY BREWER.
naturally grows warm in working; therefore in mila
weather it should be cold before it be set on, but a lit-
tle warm in cold weather. The manner of doing it is,
to put some good sweet yeast into a hand-bowl or pig-
gio, with a little warin wort: then put the hand-bowl
10 swim upon the wort ju the working-tup, and in a
little while it will work out, and leisurely mix with the
wort; and when you find the yeast is gotten hold of the
wort, you must look after it frequently; and if you
perceive it begins to heat and ferment too fast, lade some
of it out into another tub; and when grown cold, it
Way be put back again; or if you reserve some of the
raw wort, you may check it leisurely, by stirring it in
with a hand-bowl. The cooler you work your liquor,
the better, provided it does but work well.
If you happen to check it too much, you may forward
its working, by filling a gallon stone bottle with boiling
water, cork it close, and put the bottle into the work-
ing tun. An ounce or two of powdered ginger will have
the sanie effect.
There are variety of methods in managing liqours
whilst they are working. In the north they beat the
yest of strong beer and ale once in two or three hours,
for two or three days together.
This they reckon makes the drink more heady, but
withal hardens it so as to be drinkable in two or three
days; the last day of beating it in, (stirring the yest
and beer together) the yest, as it rises, will thicken :
and then they take off part of the yest, and beat in the
rest, which they repeat as often as it rises thick: and
when it has done working, they tun it up, so it may just
work out the barrel.
Others again do not beat it in at all, but let their
strong drink work about two days, or until they see
the ferment is over ; and then they take off the top
yest, and either by a tap near the bottom, let it off fine,
or else lade it out gently, to leave the sediment and yest
at the bottom. This way is proper for liquor that is to
the drank soon, but if it bé to keep, it will want the sedie
,


FAMILY BREWER.
333
ment to feed upon, and may probably grow stale, un-
less you make artificial lee: : this you may make of a
quart of brandy, and as much hour of wheat or beans
as will make it into dough; put them in lumps into the
bunghole as soon as it has done working. Or else take
à pound of the powder of oystershells, or of fat chalk,
and mix it with a pound of treacle or honey, and put it
in soon after it has done working.
It would add to the goodness, as well fining of your malt
liquor, if you took two quarts, of wheat or beans, and
make them very dry and crisp in an oven, or before the
fire, and boil them in your first copper of wort. They
would strain off with your hops, and might be put wish
thein into the second copper.
Of the fining of Malt Liquors.
It is most desirable to have beer fine of itself, which
it seldom fails to do in due time, if rightly brewed and
worked; but as disappointments some times happen, it
will be necessary to know what to do in such cases.
Ivory shavings boiled in your wort, or hartshorn
shavings put into your cask just before you bung it
down, will do much towards fining and keeping your
liquor from growing stale.
Isinglass is the most common thing made use of in fi-
ning all sorts of liquors ; they first beat it well with a
bammer or mallet, and lay it in a pail, and then draw
off about two gallons of the liquor to be fined upon
it, and let it soak two or three days; and when it is
soft enough to mix with the liquor to be fined they take
a whisk, and stir it about till it is all of a ferment,
and white froth ; and they frequently add the whites
and shells of about a dozen eggs, which they beat in
with it, and put all together into the cask : then with a
clean mop stick, or some such thing, stir the whole to-
gether; and then lay a cloth, or piece of paper over
the bung hole, till the ferment is over; and then bung
it up close, in a few days it will fall fine.
But if you want to fine only a small quantity, take


INDEX.
1
to keep,
198
A
serve of
229
Ale, Welsh, to brew, 263 Apricots, to keep green,
or strong beer, to
to preserve in jel-
brew
269
ly,
229
to refine,
270 cheese, 230
Almond puddings, 150
puddling, 170
do. baked, 160 Arrow-root jelly, for
do.. small, 160 the sick,
299
Amber pudding, a fine Artichokes, to dress, 191
one,
161
bottoons, 191
Anchovies, to choose, 146
Jerusalem, 191
146
bottoms to keep
toast, 226 for the winter,
essence of, 146 Asses’ milk,
305
to make sprats
artificial, three
taste like anchovies, 146
ways of making, 305
Apple-water forthe sick 308
Apples, dried,
235
B
dumplings, or pud- Bacon, to choose,
ding,
172
excellent, 93
fool,
210
the manner of cur-
marmalade 234 ing Wiltshire bacon, 93
jelly, 217 Barley-water, 2 ways, 307
jelly for preserving Batter pudding, 165
apricots or for any sort do. with meat,.“
of sweetmeats 234 Beans, to dress, 193
Apple pie,
178 fricassecd Wind-
hot,
193
pudding, baked, 161 French,
193
puffs,
183 Bechamel, or white sauce
red apples in jel-
133
ly,
235 Beef, to choose
47
Apricots in brandy, 230 to keep, .
55
to dry in hall, 230 Beef, to salt for eating
a beautiful pre immedtately
178 sor,
55


344
INDEX.
191,
Cream, clouted cream, 214 Custards, pudding 169
a froth to set on
cream which looks and
D
cats well,
215 Dairy,
279 to 289
to scald as in the Damsons, to keep (like
West of England, 287 currant)
241
to keep,
288
to keep for win-
syrup of,
288 ter pies, three ways, 242
Crumpets,
266
cheese 237
Crust, raised, for custards Doors, to prevent from
or fruit,
176 creaking,
327
excellent short, 176 Drink, a very agreeable
another,
177 one for the sick, 306
another, not sweet, a refreshing one in,
but rich,
177 a fever,
306
Cucumbers, to stew,
two others, 306
and onions to
a most pleasant, 307
pickle,
201 draught for a
to pickle young cough,
30T
cucumbers,
201 Ducks, to choose, 104
Curd star,
208
to roast,
111
and cream,
208 to boil,
111
two ways,
208
to stew,
111
and whey, Gallino,
to hash,
as in Italy,
238
pie,
155
pudding boiled, 171
management of,
Currants to keep, 246 in poultry-yard, 292
pie,
178 Duke of Cumberland's
and raspberry puddings,
165
tarts,
179 Dutch pudding, or sous-
jelly, red or
162
black,
234 rice pudding, 162
jam, black, red or
white,
234
E
Custards, cheap and excel- Eels,. to choose,
30
lent ones,
186 spitchcock,
42
rich,
186 fried,
baked
186 broth,
42
lemon,
186
for the sick. 298
almond, 167 collared,
111
ter,


INDEX.
349
sago, 222 and
98
Milk to keep in the diary, Mutton, leg,
94
288
neck,
94
ground rice, 304
shoulder roast-
305 ed,
95
asses
305
haunch, 95
Milk porridge,
304
saddle to roast, 95
French 304
fillet braised, 95
Milk-punch, or verder, 278
harrico, 96
Mince-pie
178
to hash, 96
without meat, 179
shoulder, boiled
lemon, 179
with oysters,
96
egs,
179
breast,
97
Mook turtle
78
loin,
97
a cheaper, 79
rolled loin, 97
another, 79
ham,
97
Noor-fowi, to dress with
collops,
red cabbage,
291
cutlets in the Por.
Moor-game, to pot, * 117 tuguese way,
98
Morels and truffles, how to
steaks,
98
steaks of mutton or
winter,
198 lamb, and cucumbers 98
Muffins
265
steaks Mainte-
Mulled wine, two ways, 303 non,
99
Mullets, to choose, 30
sausages,
99
Mushrooms, observations
rumps and kid-
respecting,
194 ney,
to dry, 145
an excellent hotch
an excellent
potch,
100
way to pickle,to preserve
kebobbed, 100
the flavour,
202
China Chilo, 100
ketchup, 203
pie,
100
another, 203
pudding 154
to stew
194
powder 145
N.
Mustard, to make, 144 Nasturtions, to pickle for
another way for capers,
144
immediate use, 145 Nelson puddings,
164
Mutton, to choose, 48
observations on,
0.
and dressing, 93 Oatmeal pudding,
164
preserve them in the
99


350
INDEX.
192
192
Olives,
200 Oysters, to feed,
Omlet,
224
to stew,
46
Onions, pickled, 200
boiled,
46
sliced with
scalloped, 46
cucumbers,
201
fried,
46
soup,
126
loaves, 46
to stew,
to pickle,
47
to roast,
soup, ? 131
store ouions, to
mouth soup, 131
preserve in winter, 197
Orangeade for the sick, 309
P.
Orange butter, 219 Paint, to clean,
322
marmalade, 231 Panada, made in five min.
biscuits, or little utes, for the sick 300
cakes,
231
two others, 300
a very fine crust for
chicken, 300
orange cheesecakes, 177 Pancakes, common, 173
chips,
231
fine ones, fried
fool,
210 without butter or lard, 173
jelly,
217
Irish
173
(China,) juice to
of rice,
173
keep,
244
N. England, 174
pudding, three ways Paper, black, for drawing
of making,
patterns,
316
tart,
180 Paper-hangings, to clean,
tourt,
181
323
Orange flower cakes, 232 Parsley pie,
157
Oranges to keep for pud-
to preserve for the
dings, &c.
232 winter,
Orgeat, two ways,
244 Parsneps, fricassee of, 196
for the sick,
309
to mash,
Ortolans, to roast,
to preserve to eat
Ox-ckeek stewed, plain, 67 in the winter,
197
to dress it another Partiridges, to choose, 105
way,
67
to roast, 116
Ox feet, various ways of
116
dressing,
68 Partridge pie in a dish, '157
rump soup,
127 Paste light, for tarts and
Oxford dumplings,
172
cheesecakes,
179
Oysters, to choose
strong, for paper, 327
160
197
196
118
to pot,


352
INDEX.
eggs to dress
167
up, &c.
Plovers, to choose 105 Potatoe, pasty
1978
Plovers, to drees 118
pasty
186
118
pie
158
Plumb-pudding 169
pudding, an ex-
Pomatum soft, to make 313, cellent plain one
hard
314
pudding with
Poor, cookery for, general meat
167
remarks and hints on this Poultry, directions for
subject
310 choosing
105
Pork, to choose 48 Poultry yard
289
remarks on cutting Prawns, to choose 31
81 Prune tart
180
to roast a leg 81 Puddings &c 159 to 175
to buil a leg. 82
observations on
oin and neck, roat- : making them ,159
ed
82
a quick made 171
shoulders and
in haste 163
breasts
82 Puff-paste, rich 175
rolled neck
82
less rich
spring or forehand 82 Puffs excellent light 184
spare-rib
82 apple
183
griskin
82 lemon
blade-bone
83 cheese
to dress pork as Puits d'amour
206
lamb
83 Punch, an excellent me.
to pickle
thod of making 287
steaks
milk, or verder 278
sausages
Norfolk, 278
an excellent sausage
to eat cold
juelly, Dr.Ratcliff's Quaking pudding 164
restorative
299 Quinces, to preserve whole
Porker's head, to roast 86
238
Porter pots, patent pewter, Quince marmalade 237
to clean
326
Potatoes, to boil 195
Ri“
to broil 196 Rabbitts, to choose 105
to roast
various ways of
to fry
dressing
118
to mash
to make them
or half


INDEX.
353
cream
239,
to pot
34
34
laste much like hare 119 Roman cement, or mortar,
Rabbits, to pot
for outside plastering, or
to blanch
brick-work
317
management of
Ruffs & Reese to dress 118
living rabbits ,296 Rusks
257 and 269
Raised crust for meat pies Russian seed pudding 171
or fowls, &c.
158
Ramakins
225
S.
Raspberry tart with Sack mead
276
181 Sago, to prepare, to give
brandy
277
away to poor families 313
cakes
246 milk
305
jam
236 pudding, 160
another 246 Salad, French
195
vinegar 245
lobster
195
vinegar water, Salmagundi,
223
for the sick
308 Salmon, to choose 29
Ratafia
277
to boil
34
Receipts various 313 to 328 to broil
Restorative, four ways 301
Rice, savoury
to dry
34
edging or casse-
an excellent dish
rol
223 of dried salmon 35
paste for sweets 176
to piekle 35
paste for relishing
collared
36
things
176 Saloop
304
carrole of 223 Sauce, a very good one, es-
milk
222 pecially to hide the bad
pudding, small
166 colour of fowls, 135
pudding, plain
white, for friscassee
rich
of fowls, rabbits, white
"With fruit "
meat fish, or vegeta-
baked
bles
135
another for
for wild fowl 136
the family
167 another for the same
Rock, fish to choose
or for ducks
136
Rolls, long
264 an excellent one for
French
carp or boiled turkey 136
delicate French 265 for fowl of any de-
Rolls, potatoe 264 and 267 scription
136
2:22
29
FF 2


356
INDEX.
another way
106
Tops and bottoms 266 Veal, potted
Transparent pudding 165 a dunelm of cold 72
Trifle, an excellent
309 minced
72
goosberry or ap-
to pot with ham
73
ple
209 cullets Maintenon 73
cake
209
73
Tripe
68 collops
73
soused
68 to dress collops very
Trout, to choose 30
quick
74
to fry
39 scollops of cold 74
a-la-Genevoise 39 fricandeau 74
Truffles and morels, how to a cheaper, but equal-
preserve them in win ly good fricandeau 75
ter
198 fricandeau another
Turkeys, to choose 104
way
75
to boil
olives
75
to roast 106 cake
75
pulled 107
sausages
76
management of
broth
121
in the poultry yard 293 gravy
134
Turnip soup
124 Vegetables 189 to 198
pie
167
observations on
Turtle, to choose 32
dressing them 189
to boil them
V.
green
189
Veal, to choose
48
to boil in hard
to keep
68
water
190
leg
69
how to preserve
knuckle
69 for the winter 197
shoulder
69
soup
125
neck
70
another 126
a-la-braise 70 pie
157
breast of
70 Venison, to choose 53
rolled breast of 70
to keep 53
rolled another way 71
to dress 53
chump of veal a-a.
haunch, neck and
double
71 shoulder, to roast 54
rolls of either cold
stewed shoulder 54
meat or fresh
71
breast
harico of
72
breast
54.
54


INDEX.
357
219
two ways
two ways
Venison, hashed 54 roll
to prepare for Wine, remarks on home-
pasty
184 made
271
pasty 184 a rich and plea-
crust for 175 sant
Verder, or milk-punch 278 raspberry and cur-
Vinegar, camp
143 rant
goosberry
143
272
raspberry 245
black-currant, very
shallot 143 fine,
272
sugar
143 ginger, excellent,
cucumber 144
253
wine
144 cowslip, excel
Vingaret, for cold meat or
lent
273
fowls
143 elder
white, very much
W.
like Frontiniag 274
Wafers
255 clary,
Walnuts, to pickle 201
raisin, excellent «
anothor way 202
raisin wine with
Walnut ketchup of the fi cider,
275
nest sort
203
raisin winewith-
Wash-balls, to make 314
out cider,
275
Water-gruel, two ways 306 Woodcocks, to dress,
118
Welsh pudding
172 Woolen, to preserve it
ale, to brew 268
from moths
318
Whey
308
white wine whey for
Y
the sick
308 Yeast, to make 257
vinegar and lemon
another way
wheys
308 to preserve
270
Whitings, to choose
dumplings 172
to dry, like haddock
to make perpetu-
41 al
261
Widgeon, to dress 117 artificial
Wild fowl, to roast 117 Yorkshire pudding 171
Wine, to refine 270 Family Brewery 327 to 339
66
30


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FEB 2.0 1934