OCEAN
A TALE
The cook's own book,
and housekeeper's register
Mrs. N. K. M. Lee, A
Boston housekeeper, Eliza Leslie





























COOK'S OWN BOOK,
ANd "~ •
HOUSEKEEPER'S REGISTER.
BEING RECEIPTS FOR
COOKING OF EVERY KIND OF MEAT, FISH, AND FOWL;
AND
MAKING EVERY SORT OF
SOUP, GRAVY, PASTRY, PRESERVES, AND ESSENCES.
WITH A COMPLETE
SYSTEM OF CONFECTIONERYi
TABLES FOR MARKETING;
A
BOOK OF CARVING;
ANd
MISS LESLIE'S SEVENTY-FIVE RECEIPTS
FOR
PASTRY, CAKES, AND SWEETMEATS.
A BOSTON HOUSEKEEPER.
1
$ra nrk irair Sinatra:
C. S. FRANCIS AND COMPANY.
1854.


the
PUBLIC LIBRARY
407701A
AirOR, LF.NOX AND
TILDEN FOWNDATION.S
R 192» L
Entered, according to act of Congress, in the year 1^33, by
Mukroe &. Khanctj,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massachusetts.


PREFACE.
The cook exercises a greater power over the public health and
welfare than the physician, and if he should be a charlatan in his art,
alas! for his employers. Hitherto, or until of late years, the cook
has had to educate himself, while the physician appropriates all the
knowledge of antiquity, and of every succeeding age; his individual
cases are all classed according to general principles, while the rules
that have regulated the preparation of our food, have been dtscordant
and unnatural. In the present age, indeed, cookery has been raised
to the dignity of an art, and sages have given their treatises to the
world. Very has a monument in the cemetery of P6re La Chaise,
among the tombs of warriors, poets, and philosophers, recording of
his life that 'it was consecrated to the useful arts.' Virgil however,
writes that the best delights of Elysium were showered upon those
who received wounds for their country, who lived unspotted priests,
who uttered verses worthy of Apollo, or who, like VSry, consecrated
their lives to the useful arts. On the utilitarian principle the cook
...... should be much elevated in public estimation, and were he to form a
strict alliance with the physician, the patriarchal ages would return,
and men would die of nothing but sheer old age.
After insanity, the most grievous affliction of Providence, or rather
of improvidence and imprudence, is Dyspepsy: a malady that under
-i' different names has decimated the inhabitants of civilized countries,
0 and of almost all countries, in which man is a 'cooking animal.' To
^tj the dyspeptic, the sun has no cheering ray, the air no elasticity or
balm; the flowers are without fragrance, music is without melody,
and beauty without charms. Life is a blank; affection has lost its
j power to soothe, and the blessings scattered by Providence, are con-
^ verted into ministers of torment. Food becomes a bane; the very
. staff that supports life, gives the flagellation that renders life a curse.
0 All tha^can delight is lost,— but all that can depress and sting, has a
S3 tenfold activity and power.


IT
PREFACE.
The dyspeptic's 'May of life, has fallen into the sear, the yellow
leaf.' Sleep that should visit every pillow but that of guilt, is to him
no friend; if he slumbers, it is to dream, like Clarence, of hideous
forms of suffering, and to wake to their reality. This is but a faint
picture of Dyspepsy
1 Her gloomy presence saddens all the scene,
Shades every flower and darkens every green,
Deepens the murmur of the falling floods,
And breathes a browner horror on the woods.'
This malady is beyond the science of the physician, but within the
art of the cook; in the proverb, Doctor Diet is ranked above Doctor
Quiet and Doctor Merryman; though all are good.
The late Mr. Abernethy referred almost all maladies to the stom-
ach, and seldom prescribed any remedy but a proper diet. This it is
the province of the cook to provide; and the design of this book to
indicate. The work is not designed to spread a taste for pernicious
luxuries: and every recipe has been sanctioned by custom. The
responsibility of the cook is lightened, and his duty facilitated. He
has here a dictionary of reference, an encyclopedia of his art. The
details are full, and the authority is perfect. There were various
works of merit that it was useful for the cook to study, but here are
collected the best parts of all, with the convenience of alphabetical
arrangement, and in the compass of a moderate volume. If it is a
sin to waste the best gifts of Providence, it should be little less than
a felony to spoil them. When we have collected the materials for a
house, we never trust the building to an unskilful architect: yet we
are often obliged to commit the preparation of our feasts as well as
of our common food, to agents without knowledge. This knowledge
is now supplied.
More than health depends on the proper preparation of food: our
very virtues are the creatures of circumstances, and many a man has
hardened his heart, or given up a good resolution, under the operation
of indigestion. Who that knows the world, ever solicits with confi-
dence a friendly or charitable act of another before dinner.
The natural and moral world are reciprocally dependent; soul and
body are so linked, that when one loses its tone the other is deprived
of its equanimity. The system of morals therefore becomes identi-
fied with that of cookery, and the great English moralist, who was
learned in both systems, thus spoke of the connexion; 'Some peo-
ple' said Doctor J ohnson, 'have a foolish way of not minding, or of
pretending hot to mind, what they eat. I for my part mind my belly
very studiously, and very carefully, and I look upon it that he who
does not mind his belly will hardly mind any thing else.'


PREFACE.
V
It has beet. the study of the author, to make every recipe plain,
and the proportions certain; little is left to discretion, that could be
reduced to measure. The system of confectionery is perfect; and if
strictly followed every cook may become a first rate confectioner.
Labor, care, and expense have been bestowed upon the work, and the
publishers feel so secure of its merit, and of the public want of such a
book, that they have caused it to be stereotyped. This would have
been hazardous with a novel or almost any literary work; but the
number of those who eat is far greater than of those who read. A
good book few can estimate; all can enjoy a good dinner, and the
publishers anticipate a proportionate encouragement.
Having devised this work for families, we hope that it may offend
no one, that we give a word of counsel to domestics: our book ,may
be every way good, yet will its usefulness be much impaired if do-
mestics are not docile and faithful.
We have fortunately, in this country, but one class of people: all
are free, and all are politically equal. Our domestics are in New
England designated as help, to indicate that they are the equals, and
assistants, rather than the inferiors of their employers. Yet the
feeling of independence may be carried too far, and it may be ungra-
ciously expressed; There is no disgrace, and there should be no
shame in filling well a subordinate station; the hired ploughman,
maid, or cook are not, in an offensive sense, any more the servants of
their employers, than the merchant and the lawyer. All these engage
to perform certain services for an equivalent, and it is the duty of all
to do them faithfully.
The number of domestics is very large — perhaps the average is
five to four families—and it may be even greater. Yet, unfortunate-
ly for their welfare, interest, or character, they are almost constantly
shifting, and in few families do they remain long. In England, a
good domestic is often provided for during life, and it is a desirable
situation. It might be so here, if our domestics would strive to ac-
commodate themselves to their situation. There is hardly a family,
in which a kind, respectful, and faithful domestic might not be retained
for years, and at the best wages. Here then is a home, comfort, and
friends. Yet the greater number are contented to live a few months
in a place, till the best years of life have slipped away, without pro-
vision for age, and without friends, or home. The proverb of the
rolling stone contains the best lesson for domestics.
Service in any department is no sacrifice of independence. A
domestic is in all things as free as any other class, but it is a
bad kind of independence that would lead one, when desired to do a
Ar


n
PREFACE.
thing in the line of a common employment, to do it ungraciously
and rather as an irksome or unjust task, than as a duty.
Minor vexations, frequently repeated, are equal to greater individ-
ual calamities; as many small enjoyments constitute much of the
pleasures of life. Around the social board every member of the fam-
ily is collected thrice at least in twenty-four hours. Thither the
head of the family returns from the labors or cares of his business to
recruit his strength and to relax his mind. If he return to a table
constantly and invariably ill spread; to a dinner to which he could
invite no friend, and in which he can have no enjoyment; a cloud
will gather on the calmest brow, and a feeling of dissatisfaction may
be extended to other things. It is not beneath the solicitude of a
good wife, who would not suffer any abatement in the affection of
which she is the object, diligently to study this book, and constantly
to provide a neat and well dressed repast.
Boston, March, 1832.


.
MANAGEMENT OF FAMILIES.
In domestic arrangement the table is entitled to no small share
of attention, as a well conducted system of domestic management
is the foundation of every comfort; and the respectability and
welfare of families depend in a great measure on the prudent
conduct of the female, whose province it is to manage the domes-
tic concerns.
However the fortunes of individuals may support a large expen-
diture, it will be deficient in all that can benefit or grace society,
and in every thing essential to moral order and rational happiness,
if not conducted on a regular system, embracing all the objects
of such a situation.
In domestic management, as in education, so much must depend
on the particular circumstances of every case, that it is impossible
to lay down a system which can be generally applicable.
The immediate plan of every family must be adapted to its own
peculiar situation, and can only result from the good sense and
early good habits of the parties, acting upon general rational
principles.
What one family is to do, must never be measured by what
another family does. Each one knows its own resources, and
should consult them alone. What might be meanness in one,
might be extravagance in another, and therefore there can be no
standard of reference but that of individual prudence. The most
fatal of all things to private families, is to indulge an ambition to
make an appearance above their fortunes, professions, or business,
whatever these may be.
The next point, both for comfort and respectability, is, that all
the household economy should be uniform, not displaying a parade
of show in one thing, and a total want of comfort in another. Be-
sides the contemptible appearance that this must have to every
person of good sense, it is productive of consequences, not only of
present, but future injury to a family, that are too often irreparable.
In great cities in particular, how common is it that for the vani-
ty of having a showy drawing-room to receive company, the family
are confined to a close back room, where they have scarcely either
air or light, the want of which must materially prejudice their
health.
To keep rooms for show, where the fortune is equal to having
a house that will accommodate the family properly, and admit of
this also, belongs to the highest sphere of life; but in private fam-
ilies, to shut up the only room perhaps in the house which is really
wholesome for the family to live in, is inflicting a kind of lingering


Vlll FAMILY MANAGEMENT.
.murder upon the inmates; and yet how frequently this considera-
tion escapes persons who mean well by their family, but who still
have a grate, a carpet, and chairs, too fine for every day's use.
Another fruit of this evil is, seeing more company, and in a
more expensive manner than is compatible with the general con-
venience of the family, introducing with it'an expense in dress,
and a dissipation of time, from which it suffers in various ways.
Social intercourse is not improved by parade, but quite the
contrary; real friends, and the pleasantest kind of acquaintance,
those who like to be sociable, are repulsed by it. It is a failure
therefore every way—the loss of what is really valuable, and an
aborttve attempt to be fashionable.
A fundamental error in domestic life of very serious extent,
involving no less the comfort than the health of the family, arises
from thg ignorance or mistaken notions of the mistress of the house
upon the subjects of diet and cookery.
The subject of cookery is thought by too many women to be
below their attention, or, when practically engaged in, it is with
no other consideration about it than, in the good housewife's
phrase, to make the most of every thing, whether good, bad, or
indifferent; or to contrive a thousand mischievous compositions,
both savory and sweet, to recommend their own ingenuity.
If cookery is worth studying, as a sensual gratification, it is
surely much more so as a means of securing one of the greatest of
human blessings—good health; and we cannot quit this part of the
subject of domestic management without observing, that one cause
of a great deal of injurious cookery originates in the same vanity
of show that is productive of so many other evils. In order to
set out a table with a greater number of dishes than the situation
of the family requires, more cookery, is often undertaken than
there are servants to do it well, or conveniences in the kitchen for
the purpose. Thus some viands are done before they are wanted
for serving up, and stand by spoiling, to make room for others;
these are again perhaps to be succeeded by something else; and
too often are things served up that had better be thrown away,
.than to be used for food.
The leading consideration about food ought always to be its
wholesomeness. Cookery may produce savory and pretty looking
dishes without their possessing any of the qualities of food. It is
at the same time both a serious and ludicrous reflection that it
should be thought to do honor to our friends and ourselves to set
out a table where indigestion and all its train of evils, such as
fever, rheumatism, gout, and the whole catalogue of human dis-
eases lie lurking in almost every dish. Yet this is both done, and
taken as a compliment. We have indeed the "unbought grace
of polished society, where gluttony loses half its vice by being
stripped of its grossness." When a man at a public house dies of
a surfeit of beef steak and porter, who does not exclaim, what a
rieastl


COOKING UTENSILS.
How infinitely preferable is a dinner of far less show where
nobody need be afraid of what they.are eatingl and such a one
will be genteel and respectable. If a person can give his friend
only a leg of mutton, there is nothing to be ashamed of in it, pro-
vided it is a good one, and well dressed.
A house fitted up with plain good furniture, the kitchen fur-
nished with clean wholesome-looking cooking utensils, good fires,
in grates that give no anxiety lest a good fire should spoil them,
clean good table linen, the furniture of the table and sideboard
good of the kind, without ostentation, and a well-dressed plain
dinner, bespeak a sound judgment and correct taste in a private
family, that place it on a footing of respectability with the first
characters in the country. It is only the conforming to our sphere,
not the vainly attempting to be above it, that can command true
respect. ,
COOKING UTENSILS.
The various utensils used for the preparation and keeping of
food are made either of metal, glass, pottery ware, or wood; each
of which is better suited to some particular purposes than the
others. Metallic utensils are quite unfit for many uses, and the
knowledge of this is necessary to the preservation of health in
general, and sometimes to the prevention of immediate dangerous
consequences.
The metals commonly used in the construction of these vessels
are silver, copper, brass, tin, iron, and lead. Silver is prefera-
ble to all the others, because it cannot be dissolved by any of the
substances used as food. Brimstone unites with silver, and forms
a thin brittle crust over it, that gives it the'appearance of being
tarnished, which may be accidentally taken with food; but this
is not particularly unwholesome, nor is it liable to be taken often,
nor in large quantities. The discoloring of silver spoons used
with eggs arises from the brimstone contained in eggs.—Nitre or
saltpetre has also a slight effect upon silver, but nitre and silver
seldom remain long enough together in domestic uses to require
any particular caution.
Copper and brass are both liable to be dissolved by vinegar,
acid fruits, and pearl-ash. Such solutions are highly poisonous,
and great cautjpn should be used to prevent accidents of the kind.
Vessels made of these metals are generally tinned, that is, lined
with a thin coating of a mixed metal, containing both tin and lead
Neither acids, nor any thing containing pearl-ash, should ever be
suffered to remain above an hour in vessels of this kind, as the
tinning is dissolvable by acids, and the coating is seldom perfect
over the surface of the copper or brass.
The utensils made of what is called block tin are constructed
of iron plates coated with tin. This is equally to be dissolved as
'the tinning of copper or brass vessels, but iron is not an unwhole-


X
DIET.
some substance, if even a portion of it should be dissolved and
mixed in the food. Iron is therefore one of the safest metals for
the construction of culinary utensils; and the objection to its more
extensive use only rests upon its liability to rust, so that it requires
more cleaning and soon decays. Some articles of food, such as
quinces, orange peel, artichokes, fkc. are blackened by remaining
in iron vessels, which therefore must not be used for them.
Leaden vessels are very unwholesome, and should never be
used for milk and cream, if it be ever likely to stand till it become
sour. They are unsafe also for the purpose of keeping salted
meats.
The best kind of pottery ware is oriental china, because the
glazing is a perfect glass, which cannot be dissolved, and the'
whole substance is so compact that liquid cannot penetrate it.
Man^of the English pottery wares are badly glazed, and as the
glazing is made principally of lead, it is necessary to avoid put-
ting vinegar, and other acids into them. Acids and greasy sub-
stances penetrate into unglazed wares, excepting the strong stone
ware; or into those of which the glazing is cracked, and hence
give a bad flavor to any thing they are used for afterwards. They
are quite unfit therefore for keeping pickles or salted meats.
Glass vessels are infinitely preferable to any pottery ware but
oriental china, and should be used whenever the occasion admits
of it.
Wooden vessels are very proper for the keeping many articles
of food, and should always be preferred to those lined with lead.
If any substance has fermented or become putrid in a wooden
cask or tub, it is sure to taint the vessel so as to make it liable to
produce a similar effect upon any thing that may be put into it in
future. It is useful to char the insides of these wooden vessels
before they are used, by burning wood shavings in them, so as to
coat the insides with a crust of charcoal.
As whatever contaminates food in any way must be sure, from
the repetition of its baneful effects, to injure the health, a due
precaution with respect to all culinary vessels is necessary for its
more certain preservation. There is a kind of hollow iron ware
lined with enamel, which is superior- to every other utensil for
sauces or preserves: indeed it is preferable for every purpose
DIET.
That we require food, as vegetables require water, to support
our existence, is the primary consideration upon which we should
take it. But in our general practice of eating, it cannot be said,
"we eat to live," but are living passages or channels, through
which we are constantly propelling both solids and fluids, for the
sake of pleasing our palates, at the severe cost often of our whole
system.


dIET.
A. reasonable indulgence in the abundant supplies of nature,
converted by art to the purposes of wholesome food, is one of the
comforts added to the maintenance of life. It is an indiscriminate
gratification of our tastes, regardless of the consequences that
may ensue from it, that is alone blamable. But so great is our
general apathy in these respects, that even on the occurrence of
diseases, from which we are all more or less sufferers, we scarce-
ly ever reflect on our diet, as the principal, if not the sole cause
of them. We assign them to weather, to infection, to hereditary
descent, to spontaneous breeding, as if a disease could originate
without a cause; or to any frivolous imaginary source, without
suspecting, or being willing to own, mismanagement of ourselves.
We derive the renewal of our blood and juices, which are con-
stantly exhausting, from the substances we take as food. As our
food, therefore, is proper or improper, too much or too little, so
will our blood and juices be good or bad, overcharged or deficient,
and our state of health accordingly good or diseased.
By aliment, or food, is to be understood whatever we eat or
drink, including seasonings; such as salt, sugar, spices, vinegar,
&.o. &c. Every thing, in short, which we receive into our sto-
machs. Our food, therefore, consists not only of such particles
as are proper for the nourishment and support of the human body,
but likewise contains certain active principles, viz. salts, oils, and
spirits, which have the properties of stimulating the solids, quick-
ening the circulation, and making the fluids thinner; thus render-
ing them more suited to undergo the necessary secretions of the
body.
The art of preserving health, and obtaining long life, therefore
consists in the use of a moderate quantity of such diet as shall
neither increase the salts and oils, so as to produce disease, nor
dimtnish them, so as to suffer the solids to become relaxed.
It is very difficult, almost impossible, to ascertain exactly what
are the predominant qualities either in our bodies or in the food
we eat. In practice, therefore, we can have no other rule but
observing by experience what it is that hurts or does us good;
and what it is our stomach can digest with facility, or the contrary.
But then we must keep our judgment unbiassed, and not suffer it
to become a pander to the appetite, and thus betray the stomach
and health, to indulge our sensuality.
The eating too little is hurtful, as well as eating too much.
Neither excess, nor hunger, nor any thing else that passes the
bounds of nature, can be good to man.
By loading the stomach, fermentation is checked, and of course
digestion impeded; for the natural juice of the stomach has not
room to exert itself, and it therefore nauseates its contents, is
troubled with eructations, the spirits are oppressed, obstructions
ensue, and fever is the consequence. Besides, that when thus
overfilled, the stomach presses on the diaphragm, prevents the
proper play of the lungs, and occasions uneasiness in our breath-


dIET.
»on, or some aqueous liquor, the niceties of choice in. food or
cookery are less material than to persons with naturally weak sto-
machs, or to those in sickness, or for children. But all persons
who would to a certainty preserve their health and faculties, and
live out the natural term of life, should use plain food, as all high
seasomngs'and compound mixtures have an injurious effect, soon-
er or later, on the strongest constitutions. If a few instances can
be quoted to the contrary, these, like other anomalies in nature,
cannot constitute an exception to a well established fact.
No part of our aliment is more important than our beverage
It is essential to moisten and convey our more solid food into the
stomach, and from thence to the respective parts of the body. To
allay thirst, to dilute the blood, that it may circulate through the
minutest vessels, to dissolve and carry off by the watery secre-
tions the superfluous salts we take in our food; to answer these
purposes no liquid is so effectual as pure water, with the exception
of some few cases. No other liquid circulates so well, or mixes so
immediately with our fluids. All other liquors are impregnated
with particles which act strongly upon the solids or flmds, or both
but water being simple, operates only by diluting, moistening, ana
cooling, which are the great uses of drink pointed out to us by
nature. Hence it is evident that water is in general the best and
most wholesome drink; but some constitutions require something
to warm and stimulate the stomach, and then fermented liquors
taken in moderation are proper; such as beer, ale, cider, wine
8tc. the choice and quantity of which depend on the age, coHst'
tution, and manner of living of the drinker; and to have their-
pure is above all things essential; otherwise, instead of being
of any benefit, they will be highly detrimental.
Drams, or distilled spirituous liquors, the use of which is unhap-
pily very prevalent, are of the most poisonous qualities; and from
their direful effects are the destruction of thousands. From the
degree of heat they have undergone in distillation they acquire a
corrosive and burning quality, which makes them as certain to
kill as laudanum or arsenic, though not so soon. They contract
the fibres and vessels of the body, especially where they are
the tenderest, as in the brain, and thus destroy the intellectual
faculties. They injure the coat of the stomach, and thus expose
the nerves and weaken the fibres till the whole stomach becomes
at last soft, flabby, and relaxed. From whence ensues loss of
appetite, indigestion, and diseases that generally terminate in
premature death. Spirituous liquors in any way, whether alone
mixed with water, in punch, shrub, noyau, or other liqueurs, are
all slow poisons.
It would be endless to enter on an account of the different quali-
ties of all sorts of wines, but it may be said in general, that all
the light wines of a moderate strength, due age and maturity, are
more wholesome for the constitution than the rich, hot, strong,
B


XIV
BOILING.
heavy wines; for the light wines inflame the juices of the bod*
less and go off the stomach with less difficulty.
The last thing to be said concerning liquors is, that wine aml
all other strong liquors, are as hard to digest as solid strong food.
This is not only evident with re3pect to persons of we#k stomachs
and digestion, but also from strong healthy people, who only
drink either water or small beer at their meals, and arc able to
eat and digest almost double the quantity of what they could if
they drank strong liquors. It appears very plain, therefore, that
we should not drink strong liquors at our meals, as-by their heaf
and activity they hurry the food undigested into the habit of the
body, and by that means lay a foundation for various distempers.
An abstinence, in short, from fermented liquors would preserve
our mental faculties in vigor, and our bodies from many painful
disorders that afflict mankind, as there is no doubt that we may
principally ascribe to them the gout, rheumatism, stone, cancer,
fevers, hysterics, lunacy, apoplexy, and palsy.
BOILING.
This most simple of culinary processes is not often performed in
perfection. It does not require quite so much nicety and atten-
dance as roasting; to skim your pot well, and keep it really boiling
(the slower the better) all the while, to know how long is required
for doing the joint, &c, and to take it up at the critical moment
when it is done enough, comprehends almost the whole art and
mystery. This, however, demands a patient and perpetual vigi-
lance, of which few persons are capable.
The cook must take especial care that the water really boils all
the while she is cooking, or she will be deceived in the time; and
make up a sufficient fire at first, to last all the time, without much
mending or stirring. A frugal cook will manage with much less
fire for boiling than she uses for roasting.
When the pot is coming to a boil there will always, from the
cleanest meat and clearest water, rise a scum to the top of it, pro-
ceeding partly from the water; this must be carefully taken off as
soon as it rises.
On this depends the good appearance of all boiled things. When
you have skimmed well, put in some cold water, which will throw
up the rest of the scum.
The oflener it is skimmed, and the cleaner the top of the water
is kept, the sweeter and the cleaner will be the meat.
If let alone, it soon boils down and sticks to the meat, which,
instead of looking delicately white and nice, will have that coarse
and filthy appearance we have too often to complain of, and the
butcher and poulterer be blamed for the carelessness of the cook
in not skimming her pot.


BOILIXG.
XV
Many put in milk-, to matke what they boil look white,; but this
does more harm than good: others wrap it up in a cloth; but
these are needless precautions : if the scum be attentively removed,
meat will have a inuclt more delicate color and liner flavor than it
has when muffled up.' This may give rather mote trouble, but
those who wish to excel in their art must only consider how the
processes of it can be most perfectly performed: a cook, who has
a proper pride and pleasure in her business, will make this her
maxim on all occasions.
It is desirable that meat for boiling be of an equal thickness, or,
before thicker parts are done enough, the thinner will be done too
much.
Put your meat into cold water, in the proportion of about a quart
of water to a pound of meat : it should be covered with water during
the whole of the process of boiling, but not drowned in it; the less
water, provided the meat be covered with it, the more savory will-
be the meat, and the better will be the broth.
The water should be heated gradually, according to the thick-
ness, &.c. of the article boiled. For instance, a leg of mutton of
ten pounds weight should be placed over a moderate fire, which
will gradually make the water hot, without causing it to boil for
about forty minutes; if the water boils much sooner, the meat will
be hardened, and shrink up as if it was scorched: by keeping the
water a certain time heating without boiling, the fibres of the meat
are dilated, and it yields a quantity of scum, which must be taken
off as soon as it rises.
The editor placed a thermometer in water in that state which
cooks call gentle simmering; the heat was 212°, i. e. the same
degree as the strongest boiling.
Two mutton chops were covered with cold water; one boiled a
gallop, while the other simmered very gentlj' for three-quarters of
an hour: the chop which was slowly simmered was decidedly su-
perior to that which was boiled ; it was much tenderer, more juicy,
and much higher flavored. The liquor which boiled fast was in
like proportion more savory, and when cold had much more fat
on its surface. This explains why quick boiling renders meat
hard, 8lc, because its juices are extracted in a greater degree.
Reckon the time from its first coming to a boil.
The old rule of 15 minutes to a pound of meat, we think rather
too little : the slower it boils, the tenderer, the plumper, and whiter
it will be.
For those who choose their food thoroughly cooked (which all
will who have any regard for their stomachs), twenty minutes to a
pound for fresh, and rather more for salted meat, will not be found
too much for gentle simmering by the side of the fire, allowing
more or less time, according to the thickness of the joint, and tho
coldness of the weather: to know the state of which, let a ther-
mometer be placed in the pantry ; and when itfalls below 40 °, tell


BAKING.
your cook to give rather more time in Both roasting and boiling,
always remembering, the slower it boils the better.
Without some practice it is difficult to teach any art ; and cooks
seem to suppose they must be right, if they- put meat into a pot,
and set it over the fire for a certain time, making no allowance
whether it simmers without a bubble or boils a gallop.
Fresh-killed meat will take much longer time boiling than that
which has been kept till it is what the butchers call ripe; and long-
er in cold than in warm weather: if it be frozen, it must be thawed
before boiling as before roasting; if it be fresh-killed, it will be
4ough and hard, if you stew it ever so long, and ever so gently.
In cold weather, the night before the day you dress it, bring it into
a place of which the temperature is not less than 45 degrees of
Fahrenheit's thermometer.
The size of the boiling-pots should be adapted to what they are
to contain : the larger the saucepan the more room it takes upon
the fire, and a larger quantity of water requires a proportionate
increase of fire to boil it.
In small families we recommend block-tin saucepans, &c. as
lightest and safest. If proper care is taken of them, and they are
well dried after they are cleaned, they are by far the cheapest;
the purchase of a new tin saucepan being little more than the ex-
pense of tinning a copper one.
Let the covers of your boiling-pots fit close, not only to prevent
unnecessary evaporation of the water, but to prevent the escape
of the nutritive matter, which must then remain either in the meat
or in the broth ; and the smoke is prevented from insinuating itself
under the edge of the lid, and so giving the meat a bad taste.
If you let meat .or poultry remain in the water after it is done
enough, it will become sodden, and lose its flavor.
Beef and mutton a little under-done (especially very large joints,
which will make the better hash or broil,) is not a great fault; by
some people it is preferred: but lamb, pork, and veal are uneata-
ble if not thoroughly boiled; but do not ot'er-do them.
A trivet or fish-drainer put on the bottom of the boiling-pot, rais-
ing the contents about an inch and a half from the bottom, will
prevent that side of the meat which comes next the bottom from
being done too much, and the lower part of the meat will be as
delicately done as the other part ; and this will enable you to take
out the contents of the pot, without sticking a fork, &c. into it.
If you have not a trivet, use four skewers, or a soup-plate laid the
wrong stde upwards.
BAKING.
Baking is one of the cheapest and most convenient ways of
dressing a dinner in small families; and, I may say, that the oven",
is often the only kitchen a poor man has, if he wishes to enjoy!
joint of meat.


BAKIN'G.
1 do not mean to deny the superior excellence of roasting to
baking; but some joints, when baked, so nearly approach to the
same when roasted, that I have known them to be carried to the
table, and eaten as such with great satisfaction.
Legs and loins of pork, legs of mutton, fillets of veal, and many
other joints, will bake to great advantage, if the meat be good;
I mean well-fed, rather inclined to be fat: if the meat be poor, no
baker can give satisfaction.
When baking a poor joint of meat, before it has been half
baked 1 have seen it start from the bone, and shrivel up scarcely
to be believed.
Besides those joints above mentioned, I shall enumerate a few
baked dishes which I can particularly recommend.
A pig, when sent to the baker prepared for baking, should have
its ears and tail covered with buttered paper properly fastened on,
and a bit of butter tied up in a piece of linen to baste the back
with, otherwise it will be apt to blister: with a proper share of
attention from the baker, I consider this way equal to a roasted
one.
A goose prepared the same as for roasting, taking care to have
it on a stand, and when half done to turn the other side upwards.
A duck the same.
A buttock of beef the following way is particularly fine. After
it has been in salt about a week, to be well washed, and put into
a brown earthen pan with a pint of water; cover the pan tight
with two or three thicknesses of cap or foolscap paper: never
cover anything that is to be baked with brown paper, the pitch
and tar that is in brown paper will give the meat a smoky, bad
taste: give it four or five hours in a moderately heated oven.
A ham (if not too old) put in soak for an hour, taken out and
wiped, a crust made sufficient to cover it all over, and baked in
a moderately heated oven, cuts fuller of gravy, and of a finer
flavor, than a boiled one. I have been in the habit of baking
small cod-fish, haddock, and mackerel, with a dust of flour, and
some bits of butter put on them; eels, when large and stuffed;
herrings and sprats, in a brown pan, with vinegar and a little
spice, and tied over with paper. A hare, prepared the same as
for roasting, with a few pieces of butter, and a little drop of milk
put into the dish, and basted several times, will be found nearly
equal to roasting; or cut it up, season it properly, put it into a
jar or pan, and cover it over and bake it in a moderate oven for
about three hours. In the same manner, I have been in the hab-
it of baking legs and shins of beef, ox cheeks, &c. prepared with
a seasoning of onions, turnips, &c.:they will take about four
hours: let them stand till cold, to skim off the fat; then warm it
up all together, or part, as you may want it.
All these I have been in the habit of baking for the first families.
The time each of the above articles should take depends much
upon the stale of the oven, and I do consider the baker a suf-
B.


xviit
ROASTING.
ficient judge; if they are sent to him in time, he must be very
neglectful if they are not ready at the time they are ordered.
ROASTING.
Let the young cook never forget that cleanliness is the chief
cardinal virtue of the kitchen; the first preparation for roasting
is to take care that the spit be properly cleaned with sand and
water; nothing else. When it has been well scoured with this,
dry it with a clean cloth. If spits are wiped clean as soon as the
meat is drawn from them, and while they are hot, a very little
cleaning will he required. The less the spit is passed through
the meat the better; and, before you spit it, joint it properly, es-
pecially necks and loins, that the carver may separate them easi-
ly and neatly, and take especial care it be evenly balanced on
the spit, that its motion may be regular, and the fire operate
equally on each part of it; therefore, be provided with balancing-
skewers and cookholds, and see it is properly jointed.
Make up the fire in time; let it be proportioned to the dinner
to be dressed, and about three or four inches longer at each end
than the thing to be roasted, or the ends of the meat cannot be
done nice and brown.
A cook must be as particular to proportion her fire to the busi-
ness she has to do, as a chemist: the degree of heat most desira-
ble for dressing the different sorts of food ought to be attended
to with the utmost precision.
The fire that is but just sufficient to receive the noble sirloin
will parch up a lighter joint.
Never put meat down to a burned-up fire, if you can possibly
avoid it; but should the fire become fierce, place the spit at a
considerable distance, and allow a little more time.
Preserve the fat, by covering it with paper, for this purpose
called "kitchen-paper," and tie it on with fine twine; pins and
skewers can by no means be allowed; they are so many taps to
let out the gravy: besides, the paper often starts from them and
catches fire, to the great injury of the meat.
If the thing to be roasted be thin and tender, the fire should
be little and brisk: when you have a large joint to roast, make up
a sound, strong fire, equally good in every part, or your meat
cannot be equally roasted, nor have that uniform color which
constitutes the beauty of good roasting.
Give the fire a good stirring before you lay the joint down;
examine it from time to time while the spit is going round; keep
it clear at the bottom, and take care there are no smoky coals in
the front, which will spoil the look and taste of the meat, and
hinder it from roasting evenly.
When the joint to be roasted is thicker at one end than the
other, place the spit slanting, with the thickest part nearest the fire


ROASTING.
Do not put meat too near the fire at first; the larger the joint,
the farther it must be kept from the fire: if once it gets scorched,
the outside will become hard, and acquire a disagreeable, empyr-
eumatic taste; and the fire being prevented from penetrating into
it, the meat will appear done before it is little more thau half
done, besides losing the pale brown color, which it is the beauty
of roasted meat to have.
Be very careful to place the dripping-pan at such a distance
from the fire as just to catch the drippings: if it is too near, the
ashes will fall into it, and spoil the drippings.
If it is too far from the fire to catch them, you will not only lose
your drippings, but the meat will be blackened and spoiled by
the foetid smoke, which will arise when the fat falls on the live
cinders. *
A large dripping-pan is convenient for several purposes. It
should not be less than twenty-eight inches long and twenty inch-
es wide, and have a covered well on the side from the fife, to
collect the drippings; this will preserve them in the most delicate
state: in a pan of the above size you may set fried fish, and vari-
ous dishes, to keep hot.
The time meat will take roasting will vary according to the
time it has been kept, and the temperature of the weather; the
same weight will be twenty minutes or half an hour longer in
cold weather, than it will be in warm; and if fresh killed, than if
it has been kept till it is tender.
Kverybody knows the advantage of slow boiling. Slow roasting
is equally important.
It is difficult to give any specific rule for time; but if your fire
is made as before directed, your meat-screen sufficiently large to
guard what you are dressing from currents of air, and the meat
is not frosted, you cannot do better than follow the old general
rule of allowing rather more than a quarter of an hour to the
pound; a little more or less, according to the temperature of the
weather, in proportion as the piece is thick or thin, the strength
of the fire, the nearness of the meat to it, and the frequency with
which you baste it; the more it is basted the less time it will take,
as it keeps the meat soft and mellow on the outside, and the fire
acts with more force upon it.
Reckon the time, not to the hour when dinner is ordered, but
to the moment the roasts will be wanted. Supposing there are a
dozen people to sip soup and -eat fish first, you may allow them
ten or fifteen minutes for the former, and about as long for the
latter, more or less, according to the temptations the "Bof*GOUT"
of these preceding courses has to attract their attention.
When the joint is half done, remove the spit and dripping-pan
back, and stir up your fire thoroughly, that it may burn clear and
bright for the browning; when the steam from the meat draws to-
wards the fire, it is a sign of its being done enough; but you will
be the best judge of that, from the time it has been down, the


FRTINO.
strength of the fire you have used, and the distance your spit has
been from it.
Half an hour before your meat is done, make some gravy, and
just before you take it up, put it nearer the fire to brown it. If
you wish to froth it, baste it, and dredge it with flour carefully:
you cannot do this delicately nice without a very good light.
The common fault seems to be using too much flour. The meat
should have a fine light varnish of froth, not the appearance of
being covered with a paste. Those who are particular about the
froth use butter instead of drippings.
A good cook is as anxiously atteutive to the appearance and
color of her roasts, as a young beauty is to her complexion at a
birthday ball. If your meat does not brown so much, or so even-
ly as you wish, take two ounces of glaze, i. e. portable soup, put
four table-spoonfuls of water, and let it warm and dissolve gradu
ally by the side of the fire. This will be done in about a quarter
of an hour; put it on the meat equally all over with a paste-brush
the last thing before it goes to table.
Though roasting is one of the most common, and is generally
considered one of the most easy and simple processes of cook-
ery, it requires more unremitting attention to perforni it perfect-
ly well than it does to make most made dishes.
, That made dishes are the most difficult preparations, deserves
to be reckoned among the culinary vulgar errors; in plain roast-
ing and boiling it is not easy to repair a mistake once made; and
all the discretion and atteution of a steady, careful cook, must
be unremittingly upon the alert.
FRYING.
Frying is often a convenieut mode of cookery; it may be per-
formed by a fire which will not do for roasting or boiling; and by
the introduction of the pan between the meat and the fire, things
get more equally dressed.
The Dutch oven or bonnet is a very convenieut utensil for small
things, and a very useful substitute for the jack, the gridiron, or
frying-pan.
A frying-pan should be about four inches deep, with a perfectly
flat and thick bottom, twelve inches long and nine broad, with
perpendicular sides, and must be half filled with fat: good frying
is, in fact, boiling in fat. To make sure that the pan is quite
clean, fub a little fat over it, and then make it warm, and wipe it
out with a clean cloth.
Be very particular in frying, never to use any oil, butter, lard,
or drippings, but what is quite clean, fresh, and free from salt
Any thing dirty spoils the look; any thing bad-tasted or stale, t
spoils the flavor; and salt preveuts its browning.
Fine olive oil is the most delicate for frying; but the best oil is
expensive, and bad od spoils every thing that is dressed with it


FRYING. XXI
For general purposes, and especially for fish, clean fresh Jard
is not near so expensive as oil or clarified butter, and does almost
as well. Butter often burns before you are aware of it; and what
you fry will get a dark and dirty appearance.
Dripping, if nicely clean and fresh, is almost as good as any
thing; if not clean, it may be easily clarified. Whatever fat you
use, after you have done frying, let it remain»in the pan for a few
minutes, and then pour it through a sieve into a clean basin; it
will do three or four times as well as it did at first, i. e. if it has not
burned: but, the fat you have fried fish in must not be used for
any other purpose.
To know when the fat is of a proper heat, according to what
you are to fry, is the great secret in trying.
To fry fish, parsley, potatoes, or any thing that is watery, your
fire must be very clear, and the fat quite hot; which you may be
pretty sure of, when it has done hissing, and is still. We cannot
insist too strongly on this point: if the fat is not very hot, you
cannot fry fish either to a good color, or firm and crisp.
To be quite certain, throw a little bit of bread into the pan; if it
fries crisp, the fat is ready; if it burns the bread, it is too hot.
The fire under the pan must be clear and sharp, otherwise the
fat is so long before it becomes ready, and demands such attend-
ance to prevent the accident of its catching fire, that the patience
of cooks is exhausted, and they frequently, from ignorance or im-
patience, throw in what they are goinn; to fry before the fat is half
hot enough. Whatever is so fried will be pale and sodden, and
offend the palate and stomach not less than the eye.
Have a good light to fry by, that you may see when you have
got the right color: a lamp fixed on a stem, with a loaded foot,
which has an arm that lengthens out, and slides up and down like
a reading candlestick, is a most useful appendage to kitchen fire-
places, which are very seldom light enough for the nicer opera-
tions of cookery. ,
After all, if you do not thoroughly drain the fat from what you
have fried, especially from those things that are full dressed in
bread crumbs, or biscuit powder, &c, your cooking will do you
no Credit.
The dryness of fish depends much upon its having been fried in
fat of a due degree of heat; it is then crisp and dry in a few min-
utes after it is taken out of the pan: when it is not, lay it on a soft
cloth before the fire, turning it occasionally, till it is. This will
sometimes take fifteen minutes: therefore, always fry fish as long
as this before you want them, for fear you may find this necessary.
To fry fish, see receipt to fry soles, which is the only circum-
stantial account of the process that has yet been printed. If the
cook will study it with a little attention, she must soon become an
accomplished frier.
Frying, though one of the most common of culinary operations,
is one that is least commonly performed perfectly well


xx ii
BROILING.
BROILING.
Cleanliness is extremely essential in this mode of cookery.
Keep your gridiron quite clean between the bars, and bright on
the top: when it is hot, wipe it well with a linen cloth: just before
you use it, rub the bars with clean mutton-suet, to prevent the
meat from being marked by the gridiron.
Take care to prepare your tire in time, so that it may burn
quite clear: a brisk and clear fire is indispensable, or you cannot
give your meat that browning which constitutes the perfection of
this mode of cookery, and gives a relish to food it cannot receive
any other way.
The chops or slices should be from half to three-quarters of an
inch in thickness; if thicker, they will be done too much on the
outside before the inside is done enough.
Be diligently attentive to watch the moment that any thing is
done: never hasten any thing that is broiling, lest you make
smoke and spoil it.
Let the bars of the gridiron be all hot through, but yet not
burning hot upon the surface: this is the perfect and fine condition
of the gridiron.
As the bars keep away as much heat as their breadth covers, it
is absolutely necessary they should be thoroughly hot before the
thing to be cooked be laid on them.
The bars of gridirons should be made concave, and terminate in
a trough to catch the gravy and keep the fat from dropping into
the fire and making a smoke, which will spoil the broil.
Upright gridirons are the best, as they can be used at any fire
without fear of smoke; and the gravy is preserved in the trough
under 'them.
N. B. Broils must be brought to table as hot as possible; set a
dish to heat when you put your chops on the gridiron, from whence
to the mouth their progress must be as quick as possible.
When the fire is not clear, the business of the gridiron may be
done by the Dutch oven or bonnet.
Take care to have a very clear, brisk fire; throw a little salt on
it; make the gridiron hot, and set it slanting, to prevent the fett
from dropping into the fire, and making a smoke. It requires
more practice and care than is generally supposed to do steaks to
a nicety; and for want of these little attentions, this very common
dish, which every body is supposed capable of dressing, seldom
comes to table in perfection.
Ask those you cook for, if they like it under, or thoroughly
done; and what accompaniments they like best; it is usual to put
a table-spoonful of ketchup, or a little minced eschalot, into a dish
before the fire; while you are broiling, turn the steak, &c. with a
pair of steak-tongs, it will be done in about ten or fifteen minutes;
rub a bit of butter over it, and send it up garnished with pickley
and finely-scraped horse-radish.


BROTHS AND SOUPS.
BROTHS AND SOUPS.
The cook must pay continual attention to the condition of her
stew-pans, soup-kettles, &.c. which should be examined every time
they are used. The prudent housewife will carefully examine the
condition of them herself at least once a month. Their covers
also must be kept perfectly clean and well tinned, and the stew-
pans not only on the inside, but about a couple of inches on the
outside: many mischiefs arise from their getting out of repair;
and if not kept nicely tinned, all your good work will be in vain;
the broths and soups will look green and dirty, taste bitter and
poisonous, and will be spoiled both for the eye and palate, and
your credit will be lost.
The health, and even life of the family, depends upon this, and
the cook may be sitre her employers had iather pay the tinman's
bill than the doctor's; therefore, attention to this cannot fail to
engage the regard of the mistress, between whom and the cook it
will be my utmost endeavor to promote perfect harmony.
If she has the misfortune to scorch or blister the tinning of her
pan, which will happen sometimes to the most careful cook, I ad-
vise her, by all means, immediately to acquaint her employers,
who will thank her for candidly mentioning an accident; and cen-
sure her deservedly if she conceal it.
Take care to be properly provided with sieves and tammy cloths,
epoons and ladles. Make it a rule without an exception, never to
use them till they are well cleaned and thoroughly dried, nor any
stew-pans, &c. without first washing them out with boiling water,
and rubbing them well with a dry cloth and a little bran, to clean
them from grease, sand, &c, or any bad smell they may have got
since they were last used: never neglect this.
Though we do not suppose our cook to be such a naughty slut
as to wilfully neglect her broth-pots, &c, yet we may recommend
her to wash them immediately, and take care they are thoroughly
dried at the fire, before they are put by, and to keep them in a dry
place, for damp will rust and destroy them very soon: attend to
this the first moment you can spare after the dinner is sent up.
Never put by any soup,^gravy, &c. in metal utensils; in which
never keep any thing longer than is absolutely necessary for the
purposes of cookery; the acid, vegetables, fat, &c. employed in
making soups, &.c. are capable of dissolving such utensils: there-
fore stone or earthern vessels should be used for this purpose.
Stew-pans, soup-pots, and preserving pans, with thick and round
bottoms (such as saucepans are made with), will wear twice as
long, and are cleaned with half the trouble, as those whose sides
are soldered to the bottom, for sand and grease get into the
joined part, and cookeys say that it is next to an impossibility to
dislodge it, even if their nails are as long as Nebuchadnezzar's.
Take care that the lids fit as close as possible, that the broth,


BROTHS AND SOUPS.
soup, and sauces, &c. may not waste by evaporation. They are
good for nothing, unless they fit tight enough to keep the steam in
and the smoke out.
Stew-pans and saucepans should be always bright on the upper
rim, where the fire does not burn them; but to scour them all over
is not only giving the cook needless trouble, but wearing out the
vessels. *
Lean, juicy beef, mutton, or veal, form the basis of broth; pro-
cure those pieces which afford the richest succulence, and as fresh
killed as possible.
Stale meat will make broth grouty and bad tasted, and fat meat
is wasted. This only applies to those broths which are required
to be perfectly clear: fat and clarified drippings may be so com-
bined with vegetable mucilage, as to afford, at the small cost of
one penny per quart, a nourishing and palatable soup, fully ade-
quate to satisfy appetite and support strength; this will open a
new source to those benevolent, housekeepers, who are disposed
to relieve the poor, will show the industrious classes how much
they have it in their power to assist themselves, and rescue them
from being objects of charity dependent on the precarious bounty
of others, by teaching them how they may obtain a cheap, abun-
dant, salubrious, and agreeable aliment for themselves and fam-
ilies.
This soup has the advantage of being very easily and very soon
made, with no more fuel than is necessary to warm a room. Those
who have not tasted it, cannot imagine what a salubrious, savory,
and satisfying meal is produced by the judicious combination of
cheap homely ingredients.
The general fault of our soups seems to be the employment of
an excess of spice, and too small a portion of roots and herbs.
There is no French dinner without soup, which is regarded as
an indispensable overture; and believe it an excellent plan to begin
the banquet with a basin of good soup, which; bv moderating the
appetite for solid animal food, is certainly a salutiferous custom.
We again caution the cook to avoid over-seasoning, especially
with predominant flavors, which, however agreeable they may be
to some, are extremely disagreeable to others.
Zest, soy, cavice, coratch, anchovy^ curry powder, savory ra-
gout powder, soup herb powder, browning, ketchups, pickle li-
quor, beer, wine, and sweet herbs, and savory spice, are very
convenient auxiliaries to finish soups, &c.
The proportion of wine should not exceed a large wine-glass-
ful to a quart of soup. This is as much as can be admitted,
without the vinous flavor becoming remarkably predominant;
though not only much larger quantities of wine (of which claret is
'ncomparably the best, because it contains less spirit and more
flavor, and English palates are less acquainted with it), but even
veritable eau de vie is ordered in many books, and used by many
(especially tavern cooks). So much are their soups overloaded


BROTHS AND SOUPS.
XXV
wtth relish, that if you will eat enough of them they will certainly
make you drunk, if they don't make you sick: all this frequently
arises from an old cook measuring the excitability of the eaters'
palates by his own, which may be so blunted by incessant tasting,
that to awaken it, requires win3 instead of water, and cayenne
and garlic for black pepper and onion.
The art of composing a rich soup is so to proportion the seve-
ral ingredients one to another, that no particular taste be strong-
er than the rest, but to produce such a fine harmonious relish that
the whole is delightful. This requires that judicious combination
of the materials which constitutes the "ch'f d'auvre" of culinary
science.
In the first place, take care that the roots and herbs be per-
fectly well cleaned; proportion the water to the quantity of meat
and other ingredients, generally a pound of meat to a quart of
water for soups, and double that quantity for gravies. If they
stew gently, little more water need be put in at first than is ex-
pected at the end; for when the pot is covered quite close, and
the fire gentle, very little is wasted.
Gentle stewing is incomparably the. best; the meat is more ten-
der, and the soup better flavored.
It is of the first importance that the cover of a soup-kettle
should fit very close, or the broth will evaporate before you are
aware of it.
Place your soup-pot over a moderate fire, which will make the
water hot without causing it to boil for at least half an hour; if
the water boils immediately, it will not penetrate the meat, and
cleanse it from the clotted blood, and other matters which ought to
go off in scum; the meat will be hardened all over by violent heat;
will shrink up as if it was scorched, and give hardly any gravy:
on the contrary, by keeping the water a certain time heating with-
out boiling, the meat swells, becomes tender, its fibres are dilated,
and it yields a quantity of scum, which must be taken off as soon
as it appears.
It is not till after a good half hour's hot infusion that we may
mend the fire, and make the pot boil: still continue to remove the
scum; and when no more appears, put in the vegetables, &c. and
a little salt. These will cause more scum to rise, which must be
taken ofti immediately; then cover the pot very closely, and place
it at a proper distance from the fire, where it will boil very gently,
and equally, and by no means fast.
By quick and strong boiling the volatile and finest parts of thii
ingredients are evaporated, and fly off with the steam, and the
coarser parts are rendered soluble; so you lose the good, and get
the bad.
Soups will generally take from three to six hours.
Prepare your broths and soups the evening before you want
them. This will give you more time to attend to the rest of your
dinner the next day; and when the soup ia cold, the fat may be


xxvi
BROTHS ANd SOUPS.
much more easily and completely removed from the surface of it
When you decant it, take care not to disturb the settlings at the
bottom of the vessel, which are so fine that they will escape through
a sieve, or even through a tamts, which is the best strainer, the
soups appear smoother and finer, and it is much easier cleaned
than any sieve. If you strain it while it is hot, pass it through a
clean tamis or napkin, previously soaked in cold water; the .cold-
ness of this will coagulate the fat, and only suffer the pure broth
to pass through.
The full flavor of the ingredients can only be extracted by very
long and slow simmering; during which take care to prevent
evaporation, by covering the pot as close as possible: the best
stew-pot is a digester.
Clear soups must be perfectly transparent; thickened soups,
about the consistence of rich cream; and remember that thickened
soups require nearly double the quantity of seasoning.
To thicken and give body to soups and sauces, the following
materials are used: they must be gradually mixed with the'soup
till thoroughly incorporated with it; and it should have at least
half an hour's gentle simmering after: if it is at all lumpy, pass it
through a tamis or a fine sieve. Bread raspings, bread, isinglass,
potato mucilage, flour, or fat skimmings and flour, or flour and
butter, barley, rice, or oatmeal and water rubbed well together.
To their very rich gravies, &c. the French add the white meat
of partridges, pigeons, or fowls, pounded to a pulp, and rubbed
through a sieve. A piece of beef, which has been boiled to make
broth, pounded in the like manner with a bit of butter and flour,
and gradually incorporated with the gravy or soup, will be found
a satisfactory substitute for these more expensive articles.
Meat from which broth has been made and all its juice has been
extracted, is then excellently well prepared for potttng, and is
quite as good, or better, than that which has been baked till it is
dry; indeed, if it be pounded, and seasoned in the usual manner,
it will be an elegant and savory luncheon, or supper, and costs
nothing but the trouble of preparing it, which is very little, and a
relish is procured for sandwiches, &c. of what heretofore has been
by the poorest housekeeper considered the perquisite of the cat.
Keep some spare broth lest your soup-liquor waste in boiling,
and get too thick, and for gravy for your made dishes, various
sauces, &c.; for many of which it is a much better basis than
melted butter.
The soup of mock turtle, and the other thickened soups, will
supply you with a thick gravy sauce fur poultry, fish, ragouts, &.c.:
and by a little management of this sort, you may generally con-
trive to have plenty of good gravies and good sauces with very
little trouble or expense.
If soup is too thin or too weak, take off the cover of your soup-
pot, and let it boil till, some of the watery part of it has evaporated,
or else add some of the thickening materials we have before men-


OBSERVATIONS.
XXV11
tioned ; and have at hand some plain browning. This simple pre-
paration is much better than any of the compounds bearing that
name; as it colors, sauce or soup without much interfering with its
flavor, and is a much better way of coloring them than burning
the surface of the meat.
When soups and gravies are kept from day to day, in hot weather,
they should be warmed up every day, and put into fresh-scalded
tureens or pans, and placed in a cool cellar; in temperate weather
every other day may be enough.
We hope we have now put the common cook into possession of
the whole arcana of soup-making, without much trouble to herself,
or expense to her employers. It would greatly diminish the ex-
pense, and improve soups, if the agents employed to give the,m a
zest were not put in above fifteen minutes before the finish, and
half the quantity of spice, &c. would do. A strong heat soon dis-
sipates the spirit of the wine, and evaporates the aroma and flavor
of the spices and herbs, which are volatile in the heat of boiling
water.
Warm fluids, in the form of soup, unite with our juices much
sooner and better than those that are . cold and raw: on this ac-
count, restorative soup is the best food for those who are en-
feebled by disease or dissipation, and for old people, whose teeth
and digestive organs are impaired.
After,catching cold, in nervous headaches, cholics, indigestions,
and different kinds of cramp and spasms in the stomach, warm
broth is of excellent service.
After intemperate feasting, to give the stomach a holyday for a
day or two by a diet on mutton broth, or vegetable soup, &.c. is the
best way to restore its tone. "The stretching any power to its
utmost extent weakens it. If the stomach be every day obliged to
do as much as it can, it will every day be able to do less. A wise
traveller will never force his horse to perform as much as he can
in one day upon a long journey."
OBSERVATIONS ON CERTAIN ARTICLES.
We shall conclude these Introductory Observations, with a few
remarks on the qualities of certain Articles in common use.
Butter.
Well made pure butter is lenient and nourishing, eaten cold,
in moderation, with bread. But upon hot new bread, or hot
toast, or used as sauce to animal food, it is not wholesome. In
the two first instances it is very apt to turn acid in the stomach;
and in the latter, to float uppermost in the stomach, and disturb
the digestion. If melted thick and carefully, and eaten wtth
vegetable food and bread only, it is not so liable to this objection.
Butter is good for dry, constipated habits, but not for such as
are bilious, asthmatic, or corpulent.


xxviii
OBSERVATION*.
Honey.
Honey is nourishing and wholesome, particularly for persona
with coughs, weak lungs, and short breath. It is balsamic,
cleansing, and makes the body soluble.
Great care should be taken to get it fresh and pure; it is apt
to turn sour by long keeping.
Sugar.
Sugar used in moderation is nourishing and good, but much
of it *destroys the appetite, and injures the digestion. Moist
sugar is the sweetest, and most opening; refined sugar, of a bind-
ing nature. The preparations made of sugar, such as barley-
sugar, sugar-candy, &c. are all indigestible and bad, as the good
properties of the sugar are destroyed by the process it undergoes
in the making them. They are particularly injurious to children,
from cloying their delicate stomachs. Young children are in
general better without sugar, as it is very apt to turn acid and
disagree with weak stomachs; and the kind of food they take
has natural sweetness enough in it not at all to require it.
Salt.
Salt, moderately used, especially with flesh, fish, butter, and
cheese, is very beneficial, as it naturally stimulates weak or dis-
ordered stomachs, and checks fermentations. But if it be im-
moderately used it has a coutrary effect. Very little salt should
be used with vegetable food of the grain or seed kind; for the
less salt that is put to it the milder, cooler, pleasanter, and easier
of digestion it will be. Salt excites the appetite, assists the
stomach in digesting crude phlegmatic substances, is cleansing,
and preveuts putrefaction; but if too much used, it heats and dries
the blood and natural moisture. It is best for phlegmatic, cold,
and moist stomachs; and most injurious to hot, lean bodies.
Salt-petre is particularly bad for bilious persons.
Vinegar.
Vinegar is cooling, opening, excites the appetite, assists diges-
tion, is good for hot stomachs, resists putrefaction, and there-
fore very good against pestileutial diseases. Too much use of it
injures the nerves, emaciates some constitutions, is hurtful to the
breast, and makes people look old and withered, with pale lips.
The best vinegar is that which is made of the best wines.
Lemon-juice and verjuice have much the same qualities and ef-
fects as vinegar.
The commonest vinegar is least adulterated.
Mustard.
Mustard quickens the appetite, warms the stomach, assists in
digesting hard meats, and dries up surperfluous moisture. Ii sel-
dom agrees with weak stomachs.


OBSERVATIONS.
Spices.
Cayenne pepper, black pepper, and ginger, may be esteemed
the best of spices.
Nutmegs, cloves, mace, cinnamon, and allspice, are generally
productive of indigestion and headache to weak persons.
Garlic, Sfc.
Garlic, onions, rocambole, shallots, leeks, and horse-radish,
are occasionally good for strong stomachs, but generally disa-
gree with weak stomachs.
Tea.
The frequent drinking of a quantity of strong tea, as is the
general practice, relaxes and weakens the tone of the stomach,
whence proceeds nausea and indigestion, with a weakness of the
nerves, and flabbiness of the flesh, and very often a pale wan
complexion. Milk, when mixed with it in some quantity, lessens
its bad qualities, by rendering it softer, and nutritious; and, with
a moderate quantity of sugar, it mav then be a proper breakfast,
as a diluent, to those who are strong, and live freelv, in order to
cleanse the alimentary passages, and wash off the salts from the
kidneys and bladder. But persons of weak nerves ought to ab-
stain from it as carefully as from drams and cordial drops; as it
causes the same kind of irritation on the tender delicate ftbres of
the stomach, whiclt ends in lowness, trembling and vapors.
It should never be drank hot by any body. Green tea is less
wholesome than black or bohea.
Coffee.
Coftee affords very little nourishment, and is apt to occasion
heat, dryness, stimulation and tremors of the nerves, and for
these reasons is thought to occasion palsies, watchfulness, and
leanness. Hence it is very plain that it must be pernicious to hot,
dry, and bilious constitutions. If moderately used it may be
.beneficial to phlegmatic persons, but, if drank very strong, or in
great quantities, it will prove injurious even to them.
The following remarks on Coffee, were published in London,
by a physician. 1st. The raw coftee should be round and small
grained, free from dirt and of a light color. It should have no
appearance of mouldiness, and be kept quite free from any strong
smell. It should not be long kept in sacks with other provisions,
as there is no substance more apt to obtain strong and disagree-
able odors from the presence of its neighbors. Rum injures it;
and Miller even goes so far as to state that a few bags of pepper
on board a ship from India upon one occasion spoiled the whole
cargo.


XXX OBSERVATIONS.
2nd. When the grains are large, flat, and of a green color,
they should be kept on hand, in a dry situation, a long time before
use. Every West India planter knows this fact, although his
interest often induces him to send the article to market before it
is old and dry enough.
3d. Roasting coffee is by far the most difficult operation of the
housekeeper; hen carried far enough, an aromatic oil is formed
by the heat and forces itself out upon the surface of the grains,
giving them a glossy appearance, and an odor which is consider-
ed their perfection; yet too little roasting prevents the aroma
from appearing, and too much completely volatilizes it, leaving
nothing but a flat bitter taste. The heat should be strong and
the operation shortened as much as possible without burning the
grains. The roaster should be close or well covered all the time,
and in order to improve the looks and flavor, a small piece of
butter may be added to the coffee, while parching.
4th. When thus prepared, coffee may be preserved for use in
large quantities, without losing much of its freshness, provided
the vessels containing it be well covered.
5th. An infusion of coffee is better than a decoction, simply
because the heat, in the last case, being stronger and more last-
ing, drives off more of the aromatic oil. It is better, therefore,
to grind the coffee very fine, and then to expose it, by means of
a bag or strainer, to the action of boiling water, than to boil it
any length of time. Heat, though unavoidable, injures the flavor,
and the best coffee I remember to have tasted was made by ex-
posing the powder to a pressure of cold water; a tea-spoonful of
this extract, thrown into a cup of hot water, was sufficient. It is
not a bad method to allow the ground coffee to lie in cold water
between meals, and then prepare it by adding hot water. Just in
proportion to the continuance of heat, in this and in the last
operation, the fragrance disappears, and is replaced by a strong
bitter taste, which, according to the experiments of Chenevix, de-
pends upon the presence of tannin (resembling that in tan bark).
Roasting, besides forming this bitter substance, deprives the cof-
fee of its nutritious qualities.
Chocolate.
Is rich, nutritious, and soothing, saponaceous, and cleansing;
from which quality it often helps digestion, and excites the appe-
tite. It is only proper for some of the leaner and stronger sort of
phlegmatic constitutions, and some old people who are healthy,
and accustomed to bodily exercise.
Cocoa.
Is of the same nature as chocolate, but not so rich; and there-
fore lighter upon the stomach.


OBSERVATIONS.
xxxi
Fruit.
Fruits are of different degrees of digestibility. Those of a hard
texture, as some kinds of apples, melons, apricots, several sorts
of fleshy plums, and all immature fruits, are difficult of digestion.
Strawberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, cherries,
green-gages, peaches, nectarines, melting pears, mulberries, figs,
grapes, medlars, when all quite ripe, are more easily dissolved in
the stomach.
Fruit, moderately eaten, is wholesome, particularly as correct-
ing the grossness of animal food. But an excess of it, and es-
pecially of unripe fruit, is productive of many diseases; amongst
children in particular, it often occasions such as the nettle rash
and St. Anthony's fire.
Fruit invariably disagrees with bilious persons; but is a sover-
eign remedy for the sea scurvy, and for diseases arising from an
excess of animal food.
JYuts and Almonds.
Most kinds of nuts, and almonds, from their milky or oily na-
ture, contain a good deal of nourishment; but they require to be
well chewed, as they are difficult of digestion. Persons with
weak stomachs should not eat them. The worst time at which
they can be eaten is after a meal.
Olives.
Olives that have been gathered immature or unripe, and put into
a pickle to keep them sound, are apt, especially if frequently eaten,
to obstruct the stomach and passages. The best way of eating
them is with good bread, when the stomach is properly empty To
eat them upon a full stomach is very bad.
NOTE.
Receipts for making all kinds of Bread, Biscuits, Blancmange,
Buns, Broth, Cakes, Creams, Custards, Jams, Jellies, Paste, Pies,
Puddings, Soups, Sauces, &c., will be found under these general
heads; the method of cooking the several meats are arranged under
the name of each meat. Still there are interspersed throughout the
book singly receipts under the letter of the name, of which many of
the above articles are composed. We will instance the following,
viz:—
Cakes,—Almond, Crumpets, Echaudes, Fanchonottes, Flemish wa-
fers, Frangipane, Gateau, Gingerbread, Hedgehog, Jumbles,
Kisses, Lemon Bonbons, Macaroons, Madelains, Meat, M if-
fins, Oat, Orange, Perlingo, Sally Lunns.
Bread,—Almond, Brentford, Filbert, French Rolls, Rusks.
Creams,—Under various fruits of which they are made.
Veal,—Friar's chicken, Gratin, and many articles under Calf
Fowls,—See also Chickens, Capons.
Beef,—See also Ox.


xxxti.
The following Engraving represents the method of dividing an Ox
for the table, in England, and in most of the southern cities of the
United States. The method in Boston varies considerably, dividing
into smaller pieces, and this plan we pursue in the following tables;
but the matmer of cooking each is nearly the same.

1.
Sirloin.
10.
Fore rib: Five ribs,.
2.
Rump.
11.
Middle rib: Four ri.bs.
3.
Edge Bone.
12.
Chuck: Three ribs.
4.
Buttock.
13.
Shoulder or leg-of-mutton piece
5.
Mouse Buttock.
14.
Brisket.
6.
Veiny Piece.
15.
Clod.
7.
Thick Flank.
16.
Neck, or Sticking Piece.
8.
Thin Flank.
17.
Shin. -
9
Leg.
18.
Cheek. /


MARKETING TABLES.
BEEF.
THE HIND QUARTER.
Price per lb.
Method of cooking.
Sirloin
10 to 12 cents
Roasted.
Rump
10 to 12
'»
Roasted, or Steak, or Stew.
Edge Bone
6 to 8
n
Boiled.
Round
8 to 10
»
( Alamode, Boiled, or savory salt-
( ed Beef.
Veiny Piece
6 to 8
n
Steaks or Roast; or baked or salted
Thick Flank
6 to 8
n
Steaks, or corned.
Thin Flank
6
n
do.
Leg Ran
4
n
Boil; Soup, or Stew.
Leg
a
n
Soup or Stew.
THE FORE QUARTER.
First Cut, 2 Ribs
Second Cut, 2 Ribs
Third Cut, 2 Ribs
Fourth Cut, 2 Ribs
Chuck Rib
Shoulder of Mutton Piece
Shoulder Clod
Brisket
Rattleran
Sticking Piece
Neck
Shin
Head (20 cents)
Tail (2 cents)
Heels, given with the head
10 cents Roast.
10 „ do.
8 „ do.
6 „ do.
5 „ Boil or Stew, or for making gravy
5 „ Steaks or Bouilli.
3 „ Boil or Souli, or Beef Sausages.
Boil, or Bouilli; or stewing, or
Harricot, or Salted.
6 „ Boil.
3 „ Boil, or Soup.
2 „ Gravy.
( Soup; excellent Scotch barley
2" \ Broth, Stewed.
Soup, Stewed.
Soup, Stewed.
Boiled, Jelly, Soup.
MUTTON.
Leg
8 to 10 cents
Boil, Roast.
Loin
6 to 8 „
Chops—Roast, Boil,
Rack, neck end
5 to 6 „
( Boil, Roast, Irish Stew, Harricot,
( Stewed, Broth.
Rack, best end
6 to 8 „
Chops, or Broth.
Shoulder
6 „
Roast.
Breast
6 „
Broth,—Grilled.
Head
4 „
Broth.
The Chine or the Saddle, two \
*
Loins. The Haunch* is a V
Roasted, Venisonified.
Leg and part of the Loin, j


MARKETING.
XXXV
The above information will, we trust, he very acceptable to Economi-
cal Families, who, from hearing the very high price Poultry sometimes
costs, are deterred from ever inquiring about it. In the cheap seasons
we have noted, it is sometimes as cheap as Butcher-meat.
Those who pay the highest, do not always pay the dearest, price. In
fact, the Best Meat is the cheapest; and those who treat a tradesman
liberally, have a much better chance of being well served, than those who
are forever bargaining for the Market Penny. In dividing the Joints,
there is always an opportunity of apportioning the Bones, Fat, Flaps,
Sfc. so as to make up a variation of much more than a penny per pound
in most pieces; and a Butcher will be happy to give the turn of his knife
in favor of that Customer who cheerfully pays the fair price of the arti-
cle he purchases; have those who are unwilling to do so any reason to
complain? Have they not invited such conduct.
DIRECTIONS FOR CURING AND COOKING PICKLED FISH.*
The use of Pickled Fish, such as Mackerel, Salmon, Shad, &c.
is becoming more general than formerly, and would be still more
extensive if the proper mode of preparing them for the table was
better understood. These fish constitute not only a salutary diet,
but in many cases makes a very beneficial change in our food.
Whoever will give the following directions a fair trial will be-
come sensible of their value:—
First. The fish should be kept covered by the pickle by means
of a flat stone or slate, laid on them. The oil, or animal fat,
which floats on the top of the cask, should not be removed, as it
prevents the fish from rusting; but in taking the fish from the
barrel or keg, this oil ought to be put aside, care being taken not
to let the fish touch it. Secondly—The fish should be washed
clean, then put to soak in a large quautity of water for eight or
ten hours, with the flesh side down. The time of soaking may be
varied to suit the palate. It must again be washed clean, put it
to soak six or eight hours in milk, (if you have it) then dry it by
the fire. Thirdly—When dry lay it on the gridiron, with the flesh
side downward, over pretty lively coals, for five minutes, or till it
is moderately browned, then turn it with a plate, or some flat in-
strumeut that will not break the skin, and let it remain over the
coals ten or fifteen minutes, or till it is cooked sufficieutly. Shde
it oft* the gridiron iuto the dish, and strip oft* the backbone with a
broad knife: pat the fish, to cause the thick part of the fish to
absorb the fat from the belly part; use no butter—then you will
enjoy all the flavor and juices of the fish.
If a Mackerel or Shad so prepared does not relish, it must be
more the fault of the palate, than of the food. How many arti-
cles, capable of being made into excelleut dishes, are lost of
spoiled from want of care and skill, in dressing them.
* As the whole beauty of pickled Fish depends upon the right method of cooking it, u j
insert by itself the' receipt of Capt. Henry Purkitt, Massachusetts Inspector of Fish, irl.
obligingly handed it to the Editor.


TABLE
or
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
By which persons not having scales and weights at hand may
readily measure the articles wanted to form any receipt, without
the trouble of weighing. Allowance to be made for any ex-
traordinary dryness or moisture of the article weighed or meas-
ured.
WEIGHT AND MEASURE.
Eggs
Brown sugar
White sugar, powdered
Loaf-sugnr, broken
Butler—when soft -
Indian meal
Wheat flour
ten eggs are - one pound
one pound, two ounces, is one quart,
one pound, one ounce, is one quart,
one pound is - - one quart,
one pound is - - one quart,
one pound, two ounces, is one quart,
one pound is - - one quart.
LIQUIDS.
Four large table-spoonfuls are
Eight large table-spoonfuls are
Sixteen large table-spoonfuls are
half a gill,
one gill,
half a pint.
A common-sized wine-glass
A common-sized tumbler holds
half a gill,
half a pint


THE ART OF CARVING;
WITH HINTS ON
THE ETIQUETTE OF THE DINNER TABLE.
Wtthout a perfect knowledge of the art of Carving, it is impossible to perform the
honors of the table with propriety; and nothing can be more dtsagreeable to one of a
sensitive disposition, than to behold a person, at the head of a well-furnished board,
hacking the finest joints, and giving them the appearance of having been gnawed by
dogs.
It also merits attention in an economical point of view—a bad carver will mangle
joints so as not to be able to fill half a dozen plates from a sirloin of beef, or a large
tongue; which, besides creating a great difference in the daily consumption in fami-
lies, often occasions disgust in delicate persons, causing them to loathe tne provisions,
however good, which are set before them, if helped in a clumsy manuer.
I canuot, therefore, too strongly urge the study of this useful branch of domestic
economy; and I doubt not that whoever pays due attention to the following instruc-
tions, will, after a little practice, without which all precept is unavailing, speedily
acquire the reputation of being a good carver.
I have prefixed a few Hints on the Etiquette of the Dinuer Table, which I trust
will be found useful. In that, however, much must be left to a quick and observant
eye, and a determination to render yourself as agreeable as posstble.
HINTS ON THE ETIQUETTE OF THE DINNER
TABLE.
AS HOST.
The important day on which you feast your friends being arrived, you will be duly
prepared to receive the first detachment. It were almost needless to observe that
the brief interval before dinuer is anuounced may be easily filled up by the common-
place inquiries after health, and observations on the weather; as the company
mcreases, provided they were previously acquainted, you will find your labors in
keeping up the conversation very agreeably duninished.
While your guests are awaiting the anuouncement of dinuer, it will be expedient
that you should intimate to the gentlemen of the party, as unobtrusively as possible,
which lady you wish each to take in charge, that, when the moment arrives for your
adjournment to the dining-room, there may not be half a dozen claimants for the
honor of escorting la plus belle of the party, while some plain demoiselle is under the
painful necessity of escorting herself. Such a scene as this should be carefully pro-
vided against by the mode above suggested.
When dinuer is anuounced, you wtil rise and request your friends to proceed to the
dining-room, yourself leading the way, in company wtth your most distinguished
female visitor, followed immediately by the hostess, accompanied by the gentleman
who has the best claim to such an honor. The remainder of the guests then follow,
each gentleman accompanied by the lady previously pointed out to him.
D


XXXV111 CARVING.
t
Arrived at the dining-room, you will request the lady whom you conducted to take
her seat on your right hand| then, standing behind your chatr, you will direct alJ
your visitors to thetr respecttve seats.
Having taken your seat, you will now dispatch soup to each of your guests, from the
ile of plates placed on your right hand, without questioning any whether you shall
elp them or not; but, dealing tt out silently, you will first help the person at your
right hand, then at your left, and so throughout the table.
Of course, you will carve the meats yourself, or why did you buy this book?
surely, not with the intention of teaching your servants how to perform that impor-
tant duty. You will not ask to be allowed to help your guests, but supply a plate in
silence, and hand it to your servants, who will ofier it to such of the company as are
unprovided. Never offer soup or fish a second time.
If a dish be on the table, some parts of which are preferred to others, according to
the taste of individuals, all should have the opportunity of choice. You will simply
ask each one if he has any preference for a particular part; if he replies in the nega-
tive, you are not to repeat the question, nor msist that he must have a preference.
Do not attempt to eulogize your dishes, or apologize that you canuot recommend
them,—this is extreme bad taste; as also is the vaunting of the excellence of your
wines, &c., &c.
Do not insist upon your guests partaking of particular dishes. Do not ask persons
more than once, and never force a supply upon their plates. It is ill-bred, though
common, to press any one to eat; and, moreover, it is a great anuoyance to be
crammed like turkeys.
Neither send away your plate, nor relinquish your knife and fork, till your guests
have finished.
Soup being removed, the gentleman who supports the lady of the house on her
right should request the honor of taking wine with her; this movement will be the
signal for the rest. Should he neglect to do this, you must challenge some lady.
Until the cloth be removed, you must not drink wine except with another. If you
are asked to take wine, it is a breach of etiquette to refuse. In performing this
ceremony (which is very agreeable if the wine be good) you catch the person's eye,
and bow politely. It is not necessary to say anythmg.
If you have children, never introduce them after dinuer, unless particularly asked
for, and then avoid it if possible.
Never make any observations to your servants at dinuer, other than to request
them to provide you with what you require, or to take away that which may be
removed.
With the dessert, you will have a small plate, two wine-glasses, and doyleys,
placed before each guest. If fresh fruit he on the table, as pears, apples, nectarines,
&c., a knife with a silver or silver-plated blade should be placed by the side of each
plate; a steel blade, in addition to being discolored by the jutces, imparts an
unpleasant flavor to the fruit.
AS GUEST.
To dine out, it is usually understood that you must be invited; there are, however,
some gentlemenl who have attained to that high degree of refinement which enables
them to dispense with such a stupid ceremony. They drop in as dinuer is bemg
served up, when it is impossible that the party on whom they intrude can do other
than request them to stay and dine, though we suspect he has a much stronger incli-
nation to kick the unwelcome guest into the street.
We would recommend you to eschew such practices; but when invited, return an
answer in plain terms, accepting or declining. If you accept, be there at the time
appointed. It is inconvenient, on many accounts, to yourself and to your friends,
etther to be too late or too early.
You will probably have to wait a little time before dinuer is anuounced. During
this short period, render yourself as agreeable as possible to the assembled company.
Your host will doubtless point out to you the lady he wishes you to escort to the
dining-room. You will be in readiness to attend upon her the moment you are
summoned to adjourn. Offer her your right arm, and follow in order. Should you
have to pass down stairs, you will give the lady the wall. You will take your seat
at the table on the right hand of the lady you conducted.
Being seated, soup will be handed round. When oftered, take it; but if you
prefer fish, pass it on to your neighbor. You must not ask for soup or fish a second
time; it will not be offered—you would not be so rude or selfish as to keep the com-
pany waiting for the second course, that you may have the pleasure of demolishing
a double portion of fish.


CARVING.
xxxix
Fish must be eaten with a silver fork, as the acid in the sauce, acting on the steel
of an ordinary fork, gives an unpleasant flavor to the dish. For this reason, also, a
knife should not he used in eating fish.
If asked whether you have a preference for any dish, or any particular part of a
di*' , answer plainly and distinctly as you wish.
Pay as much attention to your companion on your left as politeness requires, but
do not be unuecessarily offictous. People do not like to he stared at when eating.
When you a^e helped to anything, do not wait until the rest of the company are
ptovided. This is very common in the country, but shows a want of good breeding.
Do not allow your plate to be overloaded with a multifarious assortment of vege-
tables, but rather confine yourself to one kind. When you take another sort of
meat, or a dish not properly a vegetable, you must change your plate.
If you have the honor 01 sitting on the right hand of the hostess, you will, imme-
diately on the removal of soup, request the honor of taking wine with her.
Finally, to do all these things well, and to be aufait at a dinuer party, be perfectly
at your ease. To be at ease is a great step towards enjoying your own dinuer, and
making yourself agreeable to the company. Fancy yourself at home; performing
all the ceremonies without any apparent effort. For the rest, observation and your
own judgment will be the best gutde, and render you perfect in the etiquette of the
dinuer table.
THE ART OF CARVlNG.
Is Carving, your knife should not be too heavy, but of a sufficient size, and keen
edge. In usmg it, no great personal strength is required, as constant practice will
render it an easy task to carve the most difficult articles; more depending on address
than force.
The dish should be sufficiently near to enable the carver to reach it without rising,
and the' seat should be elevated so as to give command over the joint.
Show no partiality in serving, but let each person at table have a share of such
articles as are considered best, for however you conciliate the one you favor, you
must bear in mind that you make enemies of the other-guests.
SECTION I.
FISH
requires very little carving; it should be carefully helped with a fish-slice, which not
bemg sharp, prevents the flakes from being broken, and in Salmon and Cod these are
large and add much to their beauty. A portion of the roe, milt, or liver, should be
given to each person.
1

SALMON
is rarely sent to the table whole, but a piece cut from the middle of a large fish, which
ts the best flavored part of it. Make an incision along the back, 1-2, and another
from 5 to 6; then divide the side about the middle, in the line 3-4; cut the thickest
part, between 1-3, 2-4, for the lean, the remainder for the fat; ask which is preferred,
and help as the fancy of your guests may demand. When the fish is very thick, do
not venture too near the bone, as there it has an ill flavor and is discolored.
In paying your respects to a whole Salmon, you will find the choice parts next the
head, the thin part next; the tail is considered less savory.


CARVING.

MACKEREL.
In helping, first cut off the head, at 1, as that part is very inferior and unsavory
then divtde down the back, and give a side to each; if less is asked for, the thickest
end, which is the most choice, should be served. Inquire if the roe is liked; it may
be found between 1 and .2. That of the female is hard, of the male soft.
CARP, PERCH, HAddOCK, ETC.,
will be easily helped by attending to the foregoing directions. The head of the Carp
is esteemed a deltcacy, which should be borne in mind.
1 i

cod's head and shoulders.
Introduce the fish-slice at 1, and cut quite through the back, as far as 2, then help
{pieces from between 3 and 4, and with each slice give a portion of the sound, which
iues the under side of the back bone. It is thin, and of a darker color than the other
part of the fish, and is esteemed a delicacy.
Some persons are partial to the tongue and palate, for which you must insert a
spoon into the mouth. The jelly part is about the jaw, the firm part within the head,
on which are some other delicate pickings; the finest portions may be found about
the shoulders.

TURBOT.
The under side of this fish is the most esteemed, and is placed uppermost on the
dish. The fish-slice must be introduced at 1, and an incision made as far as 2; then
cut from the middle, which is the primest part. After helping the whole of that side,
the upper part must be attacked, and as it is difficult to dtvide the back bone, raise
it with the fork, while you separate a portion with the fish-slice; this part is more
solid, and is preferred by some, though it is less delicate than the under side. The
fins are esteemed a nicety, and should be attended to accordingly.
BRILL, SOLES, PLAICE,
and flat fish in general, may be served in the same manuer as a Turbot.


CARVING. Xli
SECTION II.
JOINTS.
In helping the more fleshy joints, such as a Sirloin of Beef, Lee ot Mutton, Fillet
of Veal, cut thin smooth slices, and let the knife pass through to the bones of Mutton
and Beef.
It would prevent much trouble, if the joints of the loin, neck, and breast, were cut
through by the butcher previous to the cooking, so that when sent to table they may
easily be severed. Should the whole of the meat belonging to each bone be too thick,
one or more slices may he taken off from between every two bones.
In some boiled joints, round and aitch-bone of beef for instance, the water renders
the outsides vapid, and of course unfit to be eaten; you will therefore be particular to
cut off and lay aside a thick slke from the top, before you begin to serve.

SHOULdER OF MUTTON.
Cut m to the bone at the line 1, and help thin slices of lean from each side of the
incision; the prime part of the fat lies at the outer edge, at 2.
Should more meat be required than can be got from that part, cut on either side of
the line 3, which represents the blade bone, and some good and delicate slices may be
procured. By cuttmg horizontally from the under stde, many " nice bits " will be
obtained.

LEO OF MUTTON.
The finest part is situated in the centre, a.t 1, between the knuckle and farther end;
insert the kmfe there, and cut thin, deep slices each way, as far in as 2. The out-
side rarely being very fat, some neat cuts may be obtained off the broad end, at 3.
The knuckle of a fine leg is tender, though dry, and many prefer it, although the
other is the most juicy. There are some good cuts on the broad end of the back of
the leg, from which slices may be procured lengthways.
i The cramp bone is by some esteemed a deltcacy; to get it out, cut down to the
thighbone, at 4, and pass the knife under it in a semicircular course, to 5.
HAUNCH OF MUTTON"
consists of the leg and part of the loin, cut so as to resemble a Haunch of Venison.
It must be helped at table in a similar manuer.
D*


xlii
CARVING.
SADdLE OF MUTTON.
This is an excellent joint, and produces many nice bits. Cut the whole length of
it close to the back bone, and take off some long thin slices in that direction. The
upper division consists of lean; the fat may be easily got at by cutting from the left
stde.
LOIN OF MUTTON.
As the bones of this joint are divided, it is very easily managed. Begin at the nar-
row end and take off the chops; when the joints are cut through, some slices of meat
may be obtained between the bones.

FORE 0.UARTER OF LAMB.
First divide the shoulder from the scoven, which consists of the breast and ribs,
by passing the knife under the knuckle, in the direction of 1, 2, 3, and cutting so as
to leave a fair portion of meat on the ribs; lay it on a separate dish, and squeeze the
juice of half a Seville orange over the other part, which, after being sprinkled with
pepper and salt, should be dtvided in the line 3-4. This will separate the ribs from
the gristly part, and you may help from either, as may be chosen, cutting as directed
by the lines 5, 6.
SHOULDER OF LAMB
must be carved like a shoulder of mutton, of which it is a miniature edition.
LEG OF LAMB.
Follow the directions given for leg of mutton, at page xli.
LOIN OF LAMB
may be helped similar to a loin of mutton. (See lotn of mutton.) This, and the
two foregomg, being small joints, should be helped sparingly, as there is very little
meat on them, especially when first in season.

AITCH-BONE OF BEEF.
Cat off and lay aside a thick slice from the entire surface, as marked 1-2, then help.
There are two sorts of fat to this joint, and, as tastes differ, it is necessary to learn
whioh is preferred. The solid fat will be found at 3, and must be cut hortzontally;
the softer, which resembles marrow, at the back of the bone, below 4.
A silver skewer should be substituted for the one which keeps the meat properly-
together while boiling, and it may be withdrawn when vou cut down to it.


CAE VINO.
xliii

SIRLOIN OF BEEF.
There are two modes of helping this joint. The better way is by carving long thin
slices from 1 to 2; the other way is by cutting it across, which, however, spoils it.
The most tender and prime part is in the direction of the line 3; there will also be
found some delicate fat, part of which should be given with each piece.
• RIBS OF BEEF
may be carved similar to the Sirloin, always commencing at the thin end of the joint,
and cutting long slices so as to give fat and lean together.
ROUNd OF BEEF.
This joint is so very easy to attend to, that we have not deemed it necessary to
give a drawing of it; it only requires a steady hand and a sharp knife. The upper
surface being removed, as dtrected for the aitch-bone of beef, carve thin slices, and
give a portion of fat with each.
You must cut the meat as even as possible, as it is of consequence to preserve the
beauty of its appearance.

A TONGUE.
Cut nearly through the middle, at the line 1, and take thin slices from each side.
The fat is sttuated underneath, at the root of the-tongue.

a calf's head.
Cut thin slices from 1 to 2, and let the knife penetrate to the bone. At the thick
part of the neck end, 3, the throat sweetbread ts situated; carve slices from 3 to 4,
and help with the other part. Should the eye be asked for, it must be extracted with
the point of the knife, and a portion given. The palate, esteemed a delicacy, is situ-
ated under the head, and some fine lean may be found by removing the jaw-bone;
portions of each of these should be helped round.


CARVING.
A LOIN OF VEAL
should be jointed previous to being sent to table, when each division may be easily
cut through with a knife. The fat surrounds the kidney, and portions of each should
be gtven with the other parts.

A BREAST OF VEAL
is composed of the ribs and brisket, which must he separated by cutting through the
line 1-2; the latter is the thickest and has gristles. Divide each portion into conve-
nient pieces, and proceed to help.

PILLET Or VEAL
resembles a round of beef, and should be carved similar to it, in thin and very smooth
slices, off the top | cut deep into the flap, between 1 and 2, for the stuffing, and help
a portion of it to each person.
Slices of lemon are always served with this dish.
HANd Or PORK.
Cut thin slices from this delicate joint, either across near the knuckle, or from the
blade bone, as directed for a shoulder of mutton. This forms a nice dish for a tete-
a-tete dinuer; there is not sufficient for a third person.

ROAST FIG.
As this is usually divided as above, before sent to table, little remains to be done
by the carver. First separate a shoulder from the body, and then the leg; divide the
rtbs into convenient portions, and send round with a sufficiency of the stuffing and
gravy. Many prefer the neck end between the shoulders, although the ribs are con-
sidered the finest part; hut as this all depends on taste, the question should be put.
The ear is reckoned a delicacy.
Should the head not be divided, it must be done, and the brains taken out, and
mixed with the gravy and stuffing.
A lotn or PORK
is cut up in the same manuer as a loin of Mutton. See page xli.


CABVING. xlv

LEG OF FORK.
Commence carving about midway, between the knuckle and farther end, and cut
thin deep slices from either side of the line 1. For the seasoning in a roast leg, lift
it up, and it will be found under the skin at the large end.

HAM.
The usual mode of carving this joint, is by long delicate slices, through the thick
fat, in the direction 1-2, laymg open the bone at each cut, which brings you to the
prime part at once. A more saving way is to commence at the knuckle and proceed
onwards.
Some persons take out a round piece at 3, and enlarge the hole, by cutting thin
circular slices with a sharp knife. This keeps the meat moist, and preserves the
gravy, but seldom looks handsome.
sectron m.
POULTRY, GAME, ETC.
The carving-knife for poultry is smaller and lighter than the meat carver; the
point is more peaked and the handle longer.
In cutting up a Turkey, Goose, Duck, or Wild Fowl, more prime pieces may be
obtained by carving slices from pinion to pinion, without makmg wings; this is an
advantage when your party is large, as it makes the bird go farther.

A FOWL.
It will be more convenient in carving this to take it on your plate, and lay the
joints, as divided, neatly on the dish. Ftx your fork in the mtddle of the breast, and
take the wing off in the direction of 1 -2; divide the joint at 1, lift up the pinion with
your fork, and draw the wing towards the leg, which will separate the fleshy part
more naturally than by the knife; cut between the leg and body at 3 to the bone, 2,


llvi CARVING.
give the blade a sudden turn, and the joint will break if the fowl is not old. When
a similar operation is performed on the other side, take off the merrythought, by cut-
ting in to the boite at 4, and turning it back, which will detach it; next remove the
neck bones and divtde the breast from the hack, by culting through the whole of the
ribs, close to the breast. Turn up the hack, press the point of the knife about half
way between the neck and rump, and on raismg lhe lower end it will separate easily.
Turn the rump from you, take off the sidesmen, and the operation is complete.
The breast and wings are the most delicate parts, but the leg is more juicy in a
young bird. Great care should be taken to cut the wings as handsome as possible.
A TURKEY.
The finest parts of this bird are the breast and wings; the latter will bear some
delicate slices being taken off. After the fore quarters are severed, the thighs must
be divided from the drumsticks, which, being tough, should be reserved till last.
In other respects, a turkey must be dealt wtth exactly as recommended for a fowl,
except that tt has no merrythought.
Gtve a portion of the stuffing or forced-meat, which is inside the breast, to each
person.
A PARTRIdGE
is cut up in the same manuer as a fowl, only, on account of the smallness of the bird,
the merrythought is seldom divided from the breast. The wings, breast, and merry-
thought. are the finest parts of it, but the wing is considered the best, and the tip of
it is reckoned the most delicious morsel of the whole.

A PHEASANT.
Fix your fork in the centre of the breast, and make incisions to the bone at 1-2,
then take off the leg in the line 3-4, and the wing at 3-5; serve the other side in the
same manner, and separate the slices you had previously divided on the breast. In
taking off the wings, be careful not to venture too near the neck, or you will hit on
the neck bone, from which the wing should be divided. Pass the kmfe through the
line 6, and under the merrythought towards the neck, which will detach it. The
other parts may be served as directed for a fowl.
The breast, wings, and merrythought, are the most delicate parts, although the
leg has a higher flavor.
WOOdCOCKS, GROUSE, ETC.
are carved similar to a fowl, if not too small, when they may be cut in quarters and
helped.
Snipes, being smaller, should be divided in halves.

PIGEONS.
The usual way of carving these birds is to insert the knife at 1, and cut to 2 and 3,
when each portion may be divided into two pieces and helped; sometimes they are
cut m halves, either across or down the middle, but as the lower part is thought the
best, the first mode is the fairest.
Should they be very large and fine, they may be served like fowls.


CARVING.

A GOOSE.
Take off the wing by putting the fork iuto the small end of the pinion and press
it close to the body ; divide the joiut at 1 with the knife, carrying it along as far as 2.
Remove the leg by cutting in the direction of 2-3, and divide the thigh from the
drumstick; then sever the limbs on the other side, and cut some long slices from
each side of the breast, between the lines a and 6.
To get at the stuffing, the apron must be removed, by cutting from 4 to 5 by 3,
It is rarely necessary to cut up the whole of the goose, unless the company is large,
but the merrythought may be taken off: there are two side bones by the wmg, which
may be cut off, as likewise the back, and lower sidebones. The best pieces are the
breast and thighs.
A dUCK.
Remove the legs and wings as directed above for a goose, and cut some slices
from each side of the breast. The seasoning will be found under the flop, as in the
other bird. Should it be necessary, the merrythought, sidebones, &c., can be de-
tached in the same manuer as recommended for a fowl.

HAUNCH OF VENISON.
First let out the gravy by cutting in to the bone across the joiut at 1-2, then tum
the broad end towards you, make as deep an incision as you can from 3 to 4, and
help thin slices from each side. The greater part of the fat, which is much esteemed,
will be found on the left side, and those who carve must take care to proportion both
it and the gravy to the number of the company.

Bill.
Insert the poiut of the knife inside the shoulder at 1, and divide all the way down
to the rump, at 2: do the same on the other side, and you will have the hare m three
pieces'. Pass the knife under the rise of the shoulder, at 2-1, to take it off; the leg
may be severed in a similar manuer: then behead it—cut off the ears close to the
roots, and divide the upper from the lower jaw. Next place the former flat on a
plate, put the poiut of the knife iuto the forehead, and divide it through the ceutre


xlviii CARVING.
down to the nose. Cut the back into convenient portions, lay the pieces neatly on
the dish, and proceed to serve the company, giving some stuffing (which will be
found in the inside) and gravy to each person.
The prime parts are the back and legs; the ears are considered a luxury by some,
as are the head and brains: they may be distributed to those that like them.
Should the hare not be very tender, it will be difficult to divide the sides from the
back, but take off the legs by cutting through the joints, which you must endeavor
to hit. You will then be able to cut a few slices from each side of the back. Next
dissever the shoulders, which are called the sportsman's joints, and are preferred
by many. The back, &c., may then be carved as directed above.
BABBIT.
The directions for cutting un a hare will be amply sufficient to enable the carver to
dispose of this animal. The best part is tbe shoulders and back, which must b#
divtded into three or four pieces, according to its size. The head should not be give*
unless asked foi.


THE
COOK'S OWN BOOK.
ALM
ABERDEEN CRULLA. (See Cakes.)
ALAMODE BEEF. (See Beef.)
ALAMODE VEAL. (See Veal.)
ALMOND CHEESECAKES. (1)
Take half a pound of Jordan almonds, lay
them in cold water all night; the next morn-
ing blanch them in cold water; then take them
out and dry them in a cban cloth, beat them
very fine in a little orange flower water; then
take six eggs, leave out four white.-, with a
little beaten mace; beat them well in a mar-
ble mortar; take ten ounces of fresh butter,
melt it, add a little grated lemon-peel, and
put them in the mortar with the other ingre-
dients; mix all well together and fill your
patty-pans, having lined them with thin pull'
paste.
ALMOND CHEESECAKES. (2)
Blanch and pound four ounces of almonds,
and a few bitter with a spoonful of water;
then add four ounces of sugar pounded, a
spoonful of cream, and the whites of two eggs
well beaten; mix all as quick as possible;
put into very small patty-pans, and bake in
a pretty warm oven twenty minutes.
ALMOND CHEESECAKES. (3)
Blanch six ounces of sweet, and half an ounce
of bitter almonds; let them lie half an hour
in a drying stove, or before the fire; pound
them very fine in a mortar, with two table-
spoonfuls of rose water, to prevent them from
oiling; set into a stew-pan half a pound of
fresh butter; set it in a warm place, and
cream it very smooth with the hand, and add
it to the almonds, with six ounces of sifted
loaf sugar, a little grated lemon-peel, some
good cream, and four eggs; rub all well to-
gether with the pestle; cover a patty-pan
with puff paste; fill in the mixture; orna-
ment it with slices of candied lemon-peel and
almonds split, and bake it half an hour in a
brisk oven.
ALMOND CONSERVE, BURNT.
Blanch and cut six ounces of sweet almonds
into small strips, lay them on paper and put
them into an oven; when they are brown,
ALM
Lake them out, and throw them mto two
pounds of sugar boiled to petit casse, sttr
the mixture well until it begins to blow, ?nd
then pour it into pa|ier cases or moulds.
ALMONDS, ENGLISH FASHION.
Mix almonds and fillierts sea Med in equal
quantities; chop one half very fine, cut the
rest each into two or three slices; put the
whole in double their weight of sugar,
prepared by boiling it with some lemon-
peel rasped; stir the almonds very well
in the sugar, taking it off the fire, and
add one or two whites of eggs; pour it in
paper large enough to contain the whole, and
cut it in slices for use as you think proper,
when baked as usual.
ALMOND FRAZE. Blanch a pound
of Jordan almonds, and steep them in a pint
of cream, ten yolks, and four whites of eggs;
take out the almonds and pound them fine in
a marble mortar; then mix them again in
the cream and eggs, put in sugar and grated
bread, and stir them all together; then put
some fresh butter into the pan, let it be hot
and pour it in, stirring it l,s the \ian till they
are of a sufficient consistence; and when
enough, turn it into a dish, strew sugar over
it, and serve it up.
ALMOND FRITTERS. Blanch three
quarters of a pound of sweet almonds, pour
over them three table-spoonfuls of rose water,
and in a quarter of an hour a pint of cream;
let them stand two or three hours, then pound
them in a mortar till they become quite a
paste; add the beaten yolks of six eggs, two
or three pounded Naples biscuit; sweeten
with pounded loaf sugar, and mix all well
together; melt a quarter of a pound of fresh
butter in a frying-pan, and when hot, pour in
the mixture, and stir it constantly till thick,
and of a light brown color. Serve it with
sifted loaf sugar over the top.
ALMOND BROWN GINGER-
BREAD. Beat a quarter of a pound of
blanched almonds with thin gum-water, a
few drops of lemon-juice, a little powdered
cinuamon, a"d some ginger finely grated and


ALM
ANC
2
seered to give it a brown color; sweeten
and smooth it well, roll it out thin, and cut
it into squares; dry it in a stove or before
the fire.
ALMOND ICEING, for Brtde Cake.
The whites of six eggs, a pound and a half
of double-refined sugar, a pound of Jordan
almonds blanched and pounded with a little
rose water; mix altogether and whisk it well
for an hour or two, lay it over the cake and
put it in ths oven.
ALMOND MACAROONS, BITTER.
Take a pound of bttter almonds, rub them
well in a clean cloth, and beat them to a paste
with the whites of three or four egg"; then
put them into an earthen pan wtUt three
pounds of powder-sugar, mix them together
well, and if the paste should be too dry,
moisten it with white of egg. Drop it on
sheets of paper in lumps about the size of a
walnut, and bake them in a close, gentle oven.
ALMOND MACAROONS, SWEET,
Are done in the same way. But two pounds
of sugar are sufficient for a pound of almonds.
ALMOND MILK SOUP. Take half a
pound of sweet almonds, put them on the fire
with some water until near boiling, then
blanch and throw them into fresh water;
drain and pound them. Boil a pint of wa-
ter, a littb sugar, salt, cinuamon, coriander,
and lemon-peel, for a quarter of an hour, and
rub the almonds through a sieve to this. Lay
some slices of toasted bread in a dish, and
pour the milk of almonds on it, as hot as
possible without boiling.
ALMOND PUFFS. Blanch two ounces
of sweet almonds, and beat them fine with
orange flower water, whisk the whites of
three eggs to a high froth, strew in a little
stfted sugar, mix the almonds with the sugar
and eggs, and add more sugar till as thtck
as paste. Lay it in cakes, and bake it on
paper in a cool oven.
ALMOND RICE. Blanch sweet al-
monds, and pound them in a marble mortar;
mix them in a little boiling water; press
them as long as there is milk in the almonds,
adding fresh water every time; to every
quart of almond-juice, put a quarter of a
pound of rice and two teaslxwnsful of orange
flower water; mix them all together, and
simmer it over a slow charcoal fire; stir it
repeatedly, and when dune, sweeten it at
pleasure; serve it with beaten cinuamon
strewed over.
ALMOND ROLLS, BITTER. Blanch
and pound eight ounces of almonds five of
sweet and three of bitter) to a very fin*
paste; then place eight ounces of flour oa
your slab; make a hole in the middle, and
put into it eight ounces of powder-sugar, the
yolks of four eggs, and a grain of salt; mix
them all well together into a firm smootn
paste; roll it out and cut it into four etnml
parts; roll each piece to the same length;
cut them into pieces about the size of a wal-
nut, and form tltem to the shape of a w ild
turnip, and as yon do them put them on a
baking-tin lightly buttered; dorez them and
bake them of a proper color in a moderate
oven. When they are taken from the oven,
let them stand a ltttle while to dry.
ALMOND PUDDING. (See Pud.
ding.)
ALMOND TUMBLES. Blanch and
pound three ounces of almonds very fine,
w hen almost beaten enough, take the white
of an egg beaten to froth, one pound of dou-
ble-refined sugar well beaten, and put it in
by degrees, w orking it into a paste with your
hands, roll it out and bake it on buttered
plates in a hot oven.
AMERICAN BLANCMANGE. (See
Blancmange.)
AMERICAN GINGERBREAD. Take
half a pouud of fresh butter melted, one pound
and a half of dried and sifted flour, the same
quantity of brown sugar, a quarter of a pound
of pounded ginger, nine eggs, the yolks and
whttes separately beaten, one glass of rose
water, and one of white w ine; mix all these
well together, and beat it for an hour; then
with^ spoon spread it over flat tin nans,
about the thickness of a penuy-piece; bake
it of a light brown, and while warm, cut it
into oblong pieces, and place them on end
till cool, when they will be very crisp.
AMERICAN VINEGAR. (See Fiia-
egar.)
AMERICAN SNOW BALLS. Boil
some rice in milk till it be swelled and soft;
pare and carefully scoop out the core of £ve
or six good-sized apples, put into each a lit-
tle grated lemon-peel and cinuamon; place
as much of the rice upon a bit of linen as
will entirely cover an apple, and tic each close-
ly. Boil them two hours, and serve them
with melted butter, sweetened with sugar.
ANCHOVIES Wash half a dozen an-
chovies, and take tne meat from the bones;
cut them into four fillets, place them on a
dish with some sweet herbs, cut small; and
the yolks and whites of hard eggs, also cut
small.


ANC
APP
3
ANCHOVY BUTTER. Wash your
utchovies carefully, take out the bones, and
dry them; then pound them in a mortar
until they are reiluced to a paste; and mix
this paste with double the quantity of fresh
butter.
ANCHOVIES, BUI TER OF. Wash
from the pickle some fine young anchovies,
bone, and take off the heads, then pound them
in a mortar with fresh butter till quite smooth,
and rub it through a sieve.
ANCHOVY PASTE. Pound them in a
mortar, then rub it through a fine sieve; pot
iti cover it with clarified butter, and keep it
in a cool place. If you have essence of ancho-
vy, you may make anc hovy paste extempore,
by rubbing the essence with as much flour as
will make a paste. JSIem.—This is merely
mentioned as the means of making it imme-
diately; it will not keep.
ANCHOVY POWDER. Pound the fish
in a mortar, rub them through a sieve, and
make them into a paste with dried flour, roll
it into thin cakes, and dry them in a Dutch
oven before a slow fire; pounded to a fine
powder, and put into a well-stopped bottle, it
will keep for years; it is a very savoury
relish, sprinkled on bread and butter for a
sandwich, &c. See Oyster Powder.
ANCHOVY TOAST. (1) Cut seme
thin slices of bread about the length and
breadth of a finger; fry them in oil. Place
them on a dish, and pour on them a sauce
made of oil, vinegar, whole pepper, parsley,
s jallion, and shallots, cut up together. Then
cut the anchovies into thin slices, and- lay
them on the toast.
ANCHOVY TOAST. (2) Bone and
wash the anchovies, pound them in a mortar
with a ltttle fresh butter; rub them through a
sieve and spread them on a toast. You may
add, while pounding the anchovies, a little
made mustard and curry powder, or a few
grains of Cayenue, or a little mace.or other
spice. It may be made still more savoury, by
frying the toast in clarified butter.—N.B.
Keep your anchovies well covered; first tie
down your jar with bladder moistened with
vinegar, and then wiped dry; tie leather
over that: when you open a jar, moisten the
bladder, and it will come off easily; as soon
as you have taken out the fish, replace the
coverings; the air soon rusts and spoils
anchovtes.
ANCHOVY TOAST. (3) Bone and
roll up two or three anchoivies, place them
upon pieces of dry toast, and garnish with
curled parsley.
ANGELICA TO CANDY. Cut the
stalks when thick and tender, put them on
in boiling water, and when very tender, drain
it off, and throw them into cold water; peel
off the skin, and scald them in a thin sirup,
made with the same proportion of sugar that
there is of fruit; heat it twice a day till the
sirup is almost dried in, and then dry them
under garden glasses, or in a stove, and turn
them twice a day.
APPLES. Cooks, in choosing apples for
culinary purposes, should always he guided
by the weight, the heaviest being always the
best; and those are particularly to be taken,
which, upon being pressed by the thumb,
yield with a slight cracking noise. Large
apples possessing these qualities should be
taken in preference to small ones, as there
is less waste in peeling and coring.
APPLE BLACK-CAP. (1) Divide
twelve large apples in halves, core them, and
place them on a thin patty-pan or mazarine,
quite close to each other, with the flat side
downwards; squeeze a lemon into two
tpoonfuls of orange flower water, which pour
over them; shred fine some lemon-peel, throw
it over them, and grate fine sugar all over.
Set them in a quick oven, and bake them
half an hour. When served, strew fine su-
gar all over the dish.
APPLE BLACK-CAP. (2)- Pare
the apples, lay them in your pan, strew a few
cloves over them, a little lemon-peel cut very
small, two or three blades of cinuamon, and
some coarse sugar; cover the pan with brown
paper, set it in an oven with the bread, mtd
let it stand till the oven is cold.
APPLES, TO BAKE WHOLE. Put
some sound and well chosen apples into a
pan, with a small proportion of cloves, a
little lemon-peel, some brown sugar, a glass
o.' more of red wine, according to the quan-
tity of fruit; put them into a quick oven, and
bake them at least one hour. The sugar to
be limited according to the quality of the
apples. ^
APPLES, CHARLOTTE OF. {Set
Charlotte.)
APPLE CHEESECAKES. Pare, core,
and boil twelve apples wi'h sufficient water
to mash them; beat them very smooth, add
six yolks of eggs, the juice of two lemons,
and some grated lemon-peel, half a pound of
fresh butter beaten to a cream, and sweet-
ened with powder sugar, beat it in with the
apples. Bake in a puff crust and serve open.
APPLES CLEAR. Boil half a pound


APP
ATP
4
of loaf sugar in a pint of water; take off the
scum, and put in some large apples, pared,
cored, and cut into quarters, with the peel
an:1 juice of a lemon; let tltem lniil till clear,
without a cover upon the sauce-pan.
APPLES COMPOTE. (1) Cut some
apples in half, core them, prick the skins wlth
a knife and throw them into cold water;
then put them into a pan with some clarified
sugar, and stew them gently till tender; place
the apples in a dish, and pour the sirup
through a sieve over them.
APPLES COMPOTE. (2) Pare and
cut half a dozen fine apples in half, and put
them into a pan -.vith a little w ater and lemon-
juice; then clarify half a pound of sugar, and
when you havesk.mmed it put in yourappI^,
and the juice of a lemon; turn the apples
frequently. As soon as you ftnd the fork will
penetrate them, they are sufficiently done, and
may he taken out; strain and reduce the
syrup; strain it again, and then pour it over
your apples, which may be served either hot
or cold. Garnish with the peel of a very red
apple, cut into various devices, and laid on^
the apples.
APPLES, WHOLE. The proceeding is
the same as the last, except that the apples,
when pared, are not divided, and the cores
are taken out with a piercer.
APPLE DUMPLINGS. Pare and
scoop out the core of six large bnking apples,
put part of a clove, aud a little grated lem-
on-peel, inside of each, and enclose them in
pieces of puff paste; boil them in nets for
the purpose, or bits of linen, for an hour.
Before serving, crt itff a small bit from the
top of each, and put in a tea-spoonful of su-
gar, and a bit of fresh butter; replace the bit
of paste, and strew over them pounded loaf
sugar.
APPLE DUMPLINGS, BAKED.
Make them in the same way, but instead of
tieing them in cloths lay them in a buttered
dish and bake them.
J*
APPLES, DRIED OR BAKED. Al-
ways choose the clearest of baking apples,
prick them rather deep with a pointed knife
m several places, and put them in a mode-
rate oven upon a baking plate; when half
done squeeze them pretty flat with the hands,
strtw them on both sides with powder sugar,
and put them again into a soaking oven,
with some more sugar over them. Keep
them in a dry place.
APPLES FESTOONED. Peel some
golden pippins, core them whole, and stew
them to three parts with sugar and a little
water; make the sirup pretty rich to clog
to the applt s; wrap them round w ith a tlun
paste, cut with a paste-cutter, and make knots
or flowcrs with the same paste to put on the
top of the apples; rasp somc sugar over, and
bake a very short tune.
APPLE FLOATING ISLAND.
Bake or scald eight or nine large apples;
w hen cold pare and pulp them through a sieve,
beat this up with fine sugar; put to it the
whites of four or 6ve eggs that have been
beaten with a little rose water; mix it a lit-
tle at a time,and beat it till it is light; heap
it on a rich custard or on jelly.
APPLE FOOL. Pare, core, and cut
into thin bits, some good stewing apples;
stew them till tender, with a little water,
two cloves, a bit of cinuamon, and the peel
of half a lemon; pulp half a pound through a
sieve,and add the same weight of brown sugar,
the juice of a lemon, and the whites of two
eggs; beat them all together for an hour.
Serve it upon rich cream, or a boiled custard,
m a glass dish. It mav be made in the same
way as the gooseberry tool, as may also stew-
ed rhubarb.
APPLE FRAZE. Cut apples into thick
slices, and fry them of a clear light brown;
take them from the pan, and lay them to
drain; they may be pared or not; then make
a Iiatter. Take five eggs, leaving out two
whites, beat them up with cream or flour,
and a little white wine, make it of the con-
sistence of pancake batter; pour in a little
melted butter, mixed with nutmeg and sugar.
Let the batter be hot, and drop in the fritters,
laying on every one a slice of apple, and theo
a spoonful of batter on each. Fry them of
a pale brown, when taken up, strew double-
refined sugar all over them.
APPLE FRITTERS. (1) Beat the
yolks of eight eggs, the whites of four, well
together, strain them into a pan; then take
a quart of cream, make it moderately hot,
and add two glasses of sack, three-quarters
of a pint of ale, and mix them well together
When it is cool, put to it the eggs, beating
it well together, then add nutmeg and ginger
grated, salt and flour at pleasure. The bat-
ter should be pretty thick; then put in sliced
apples, or scraped pippins, and fry them quick
in butter.
APPLE FRITTERS. (2) Pare,
core, and cut your apples into quarters, soak
them for two or three hours in brandy, sugar,
green lemon-peel, and orange flower water;
when they have thoroughly imbibed the fla-
vor of these ingredients, drain, and put them


APP
APP
5
into a cloth weft sprinkled with flour, and
■bake them so that the flour may adhere all
over them; fry them of a good color, glaze
with sugar and a hot salamander.
APPLE FRITTERS. (3) Stew
tome apples cut small, together with a little
water, sugar, lemon-peel, and cinuamon;
when soft, add a little white wine, the juice of
half a lemon, and a bit of fresh butter; when
cold, mix them with a batter, as for Tun-
bridge puffs, or enclose them in rounds of puff
paste. Fry, and serve them with sifted loaf
sugar over them.
APPLE FRITTERS. (4) Four well-
beaten eggs, half a pint of cream, two table
spoonfuls of yeast, three of white wine, and
two of rose water; half a tea spoonful of gra-
ted nutmeg, and of salt; make it mto a thick
batter with flour, peel and core two or three
apples, cut them into thin bits, and mix them
with the batter; cover it over, let it stand,
placed near the fire, about an hour; drop it
into boiling lard, and serve them in a napkin
with sugar strewed over them. Gooseberries
previously stewed may be done in the same
way.
APPLES, GLAZED. Peel a dozen of
apples and leave the tails; gore at the oppo-
site side not quite through, and boil them
with half a pint of red wine, some sugar,
and a spoonful of brandy, simmer slowly that
they may not break; when nearly done, take
them out, reduce the sirup to a caramel, and
put in the apples, rubbing them all over with
tt; or you may wrap them in a paste, rasp
sugar over, bake a short time, and glaze with
a white glaze.
APPLE MARMALADE. (1) Boil
some pippins till they begin to get tender, then
put them into cold water; pare and core
them; squeeze the pulp through a sieve and
put it over the fire, letting it remain till it be-
comes very thick; then weigh an equal quan-
tity of fme sugar; boil it till the sugar arises in
sparkles which cluster together; put the mar-
malade to it, and stir them well with a wood-
en spoon. till the apple begins to boil; then
take it off and when a little cool, put it into
pots, but do not cover them till quite cold.
APPLE MARMALADE. (2) Pare,
core, and cut your apples into small pieces,
put them into water with a little lemon-juice
to keep them white. Take them out after a
short time and drain them. 'Weigh, and put
them into a stew-pan; if for present use, half
a pound of sugar will be sufficient for each
pound of apples, but if for keeping, double
that quantity will be necessary. Add to it a
■tick of cinuamon and tlte juice of a lemon.
Put the stew-pan over a brisk fire and cover
it; when the apples are pulped stir the mix-
ture till of the proper consistence: then put
the marmalade into pots.
APPLES IN PANCAKES. Cut some
apples very small, stew them with a little
white wine, grated lemon-peel, pounded cin-
namon, and brown sugar; mash them, and
spread it over pancakes; roll them up, and
serve with sifted loaf sugar over them.
APPLE POUPETON. Pare some
good baking apples, take out the cores, and
put them into a skillet; to a pound and a
half of apples, put a quarter of a pound of su-
gar, and a wine glass of water. Do them
over a slow fire, add a little cinuamon, and
keep,them stirring. When of the consist-
ence of a marmalade, let it stand till cool;
beat up the yolks of four eggs, and stir in fbur
table spoonfuls of grated bread, and a quarter
of a pound of fresh butter; then form it into
shape, bake it in a slow oven, turn it upside
down on a plate, and serve.
APPLE PRESERVE. (See Pre-
serves.)
APPLES AND RAISINS. Pareandcut
twelve apples into quarters, and each quarter
into tour pieces, put them into a pan with four
ounces of good fresh butter, two of sugar, over
which the zeste of an orange has been grated,
and a quarter of a pound of currants well
washed; toss up these ingredients over a mod-
erate fire for a few minutes and then let them
cool. Make a round under-crust seven inch-
es in diameter, moisten the edge and put on
it a band of puff paste three-quarters of an
inch high and half an inch thick; put your
apples, &c. in this so as to form a sort of
dome, cover them with the puff paste, taking
care that it does not extend beyond the band,
upon which it must be pressed down; wash
it over with white of egg, and bake it
in a gentle oven for about an hour. When
a little cooled, take the whites of two eggs,
whipped to a strong froth and mixed with
two ounces of powder sugar, and mask with
it your cake, sprinkling it with sifted su-
gar; then, having drained and dried some
currants, mix them with sugar, and strew
them over the dome; form a crown of small
meringues with the remainder of the white
of egg, and place it on the band; cover them
with sifted sugar, and color the whole of a
clear yellow in the oven, and then serve im-
mediately.
APPLES IN RICE. (1) Scoop om
the cores, and'*pare, very neatly, half a doz-
en good-sized apples; boil them in thin, clari-
fied sugar; let them imbibe the sugar, and


APR
APR
6
do careful to preserve their form. Make a
marmalade with some other apples, adding
to it apricot marmalade, and four ounces of
rice previously boiled in milk, with sugar and
butter, and the yolks of two or three eggs;
put them iuto a dish for table, surround it
with a border of rice, and place the whole ap-!
pies in the rice, and marmalade and bake it.
When done, put iuto each of the apples a tea'
spoonful of any kind of sweetmeat you may
think proper.
APPLES IN RICE. (2) Pare, core,
and cut four or five good apples in quarters;
boil some rice in a cloth, and when soft put
in the apples, tie it up very loose, and boil
geutly till sufficieutly done.
APPLE SOUFFLET. Prepare apples
as for biking in a pudding, put them iuto>a
deep dish, and lay upon the top, about an
inch and a half thick, rice boiled in new
milk with sugar; beat to a stiff froth the
whites of two or three eggs, with a little sift-
ed loaf sugar, Uy it upon the rice, and bake
it in an oven a light brown. Serve it instaut-
ly when done.
APPLE A LA TtlRQUE. Neatly pare
and pierce out the cores of eight or ten ap-
ples, put them on the fire with a thin sirup
of clar.ied sugar, cover them close and let
them simmer geutly; turn them, that both
sides may be done. When thoroughly done
lay them on a dish, with a wet paper over
them. Put a paste round the dish you serve
them in, and bake in a geutle oven to harden
it, then put in a layer of apple sauce, over
which put the apples, and fill the holes where
the cores were with dried cherries or ap-
ricot jam, then cover it with the apple sauce;
beat up the whites of six eggs to a froth,
and add powder sugar till they appear qmte
smooth; make the apples warm, and lay the
white of egg over them, smooth it neatly over,
and sift some powder sugar over it; color it
in a geutle oven.
APPLE WATER. Cut three or four
large apples iuto slices, put them iuto a jug,
and pour a quart of boiling water over them;
cover the jug. When qmte cold, strain and
sweeten it, and add a little lemon-juice.
APRICOTS IN BRANDY. Weigh
equal quautities of loaf sugar and of apricots;
scald them, and take off the skins. Clarify
and Iwil the sugar, put the Huut into it, and
let it remain for two or three days; put the
apricots iuto glasses. Mix with the sirup
the Ik-si pale brandy, half and ludl', a.ul pour
it over the apricots and keep* them closely I
covered. Peaches and nectarines may be i
done in the same way.
APRICOTS, CHARLOTTE OP.
Choose tweuty-four fine, plump, but not too
ripe, apricots, pare and divide them iuto
eight parts, toss them up in a quarter of a
pound of fine sugar, and two ounces of warm
butter; in the meautime line a mould as di-
rected (see Charlotte); pour in the apri-
cots, and finish as usual. When turned on
your dish, cover it lightly with apricot mar-
malade, and serve it immediately.
APRICOTS TO DRY. Pare the apri-
cots, and carefully take out the stones; blanch
the kernels, and put them iuto the apricots;
strew over a pound of fruit the same quautity
of finely-pounded loaf sugar, and let them
stand till the sugar has extracted the jnice,
then boil all together geutly; when the fruit
is tender, take it out with care, and boil the
sirup till very rich; pour it over the fruit,
and in three days put it upon dishes, and dry
them in the sun under garden glasses, turning
them once or twice a-day, to keep the shape
as round as possible. Any inferior apricots
may be cut down and boiled in the sirup, for
tarts.
APRICOT MARMALADE. Take
some fine apricots, and choose from amongst
them those which are of the deepest yellow
and the ripest, (they must not be too ripe.)
Peel them, take out the stones, and chop them
up; weigh twelve pounds of them and put
them iuto a preserving-pan, with nine pounds
of powder sugar; place your pan over a qmck
fire, and keep your preparation constautly
stirring with a long wooden spoon. To find
out when the marmalade is sufficieutly done,
let a few drops fall iuto a glass of cold water,
and if they do not spread in the water your
marmalade is ready to put iuto pots. An-
other method of ascertaining when your mar-
malade is done is by taking some on the end of
your finger and thumb, and just rub them to-
gether, and if on separating them you find the
marmalade forms a thread, it is sufficiently
done.
APRICOTS A LA PORTUGAISE.
Take a dozen of ripe apricots, cut them in
half, and take out the stones; place them on
a silver plate, and pour over some clarified
sugar, with a little water; put them on a
stove without covering them; when suffi-
cieutly done, take them from the fire, and
strew sugar over; then put on the lid of the
baking-pan under the fire, to make them of a
good color.
APRICWS, WHOLE. Choose the fin-
est yellow, but not too ripe, apricots; take
off the stalks, prick them on each side with
a pin, make an incision with the point of
a knife, through which extract the stone


ART
ASF
7
1 put them on the fire with as much wa-
ter as will cover them, until near boiling,
when, if soft, the apricots should be thrown
into cold water; take care they are all equal-
ly tender. Drain them on a hurdle, and in
the meantime clarify and boil some sugar
to the degree you require; put in a little
water, and when it boils remove it from the
fire, and add to it the fruit,*and having given
them a few boilings together, let them cool,
then dra in and place them in your compotiers.
ARTICHOKES AND ALMONDS.
Take half a pound of sweet almonds blanch-
ed and beat fine, with two tea spoonfuls
of orange-flower or rose water; then take
a quart of cream, and boil it with a small
quantity of cinuamon and mace; sweeten it
with fine sugar,und mix it with the almonds;
stir them together, and strain it through a
sieve. Let the cream cool, and thicken it
with the yolks of six eggs; then garnish a
deep dish, and lay paste at the bottom; then
put in slired artichoke bottoms, being first
boiled; and upon these a little melted butter,
shred citron, and candied orange; repeating
the same until the dish is nearly full, then
pour in the cream, and bake it without a lid.
When it is baked, grate sugar over it, and
serve it hot. Half an hour will serve to
bake it.
ARTICHOKES BOILED. Soak them
in cold water, wash them weir, then put them
into plenty of boiling water, with a handful
of salt, and let them boil gently till they are
tender, which will take an hour and a half,
or two hours: the surest way to know when
they are done enough, is to draw out a leaf;
trim them and drain them on a sieve; and
send up melted butter with them, which some
put into small cups, so that each guest may
- have one.
ARTICHOKES TO BOIL. Cut off the
stalks close to the bottom, wash them well,
and let them He for some hours in cold wa-
ter; put them on in boiling water with a
little salt in it, cover the pan closely, and
boil them an hour and a half. If they are
old, and have not been fresh gathered, they
wtll take a longer time to boil. Melted but-
ter is served wtth them in a sauce-tureen.
ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, to Dry
avd Ptckle. Half boil the artichokes,
strip off the leaves, and pull out the choke;
put the bottoms into small jars, and cover
them with a cold boiled brine of salt and
water; put melted mutton suet on the top to
exclude the air, and tie bladder over them.
To dry them, they are boiled as for eating,
the leaves and choke pulled out, and the bot-
*oms dried upon dishes iu au oven, and then
kept in paper bags. When to be dressed,
they must be laid into warm water, and soak-
ed for two or three hours; they may then be
plain boiled, and eaten with melted butter,
or stewed in gravy with a little mushroom
catsup, pepper, and salt, and thicKened w ith
a bit of butter rolled in flour. They are a
great improvement to all made disltes and
meat pies.
ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, PICKLED.
Boil the artichokes till the leaves can be pull-
ed off without breaking the bottoms; leave
on the part called the choke, set them aside
till cold, then put them into wide-mouthed
bottles. Boil, in vinegar, some salt, peplx;r,
mace, and sliced nutmeg, and. when cold,
pour it over the artichokes; tie bladder over
the bottles.
'ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM. (1)
Are boiled and dressed in the various ways di-
rected for potatoes. N. B—They should he
covered with thick melted butter, or a nice
white or bi own sauce.
ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM. (2)
They must be neatly peeled, and boiled very
gently by the side of the stove, with a little
salt m the water; when done (but not too
much, or they will not look well) place them
on the dish, and serve with plain butter, or
any other sauce you please.
ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM, to
FrICASSee. Wash and scrape or pare
them; boil them in milk and water till they
are soft, which will be from a quarter to half
an hour. Take them out and stew them a
tew minutes in the following sauce:—Roll a
bit of butter, the slze of a walnut, in flour,
mix it with half a pint of cream or milk;i
season it with pepper, salt, and grated nut-
meg. They may be served plain boiled,
with a little melted butter poured over
them. Scotzonera is f, icasseed in the same
manuer.
ARROW-ROOT. Mix with two or
three table-slwonfuls of arrow-root half a
pint of cold water; let it stand for nearly a
quarter of an hour, pour off the water, and
stir in some pounded sugar; Iwil a pint of
milk, and pour it gradually upon the arrow-
root, stirring it one way all the time. Or
it may be made with water m which lemon
peel has been boiled, and then a glass of Port
or white wine and a little nutmeg stirred
into it.
ASPARAGUS. Set a stew-pan with
plenty of water in it on the fire; sprinkle a
handful of salt in it; let it boil, and skun it;
then put in your asparagus, prepared thusi


ASP
B AC
8
scrape all the stalks till they are perfectly
clean; throw them into a pan of cold water ns
you scrape them; when they are all done, tie
them up in little bundles, of about a quarter
of a hundred each, with bass, if you can get
it, or tape (string cuts them to pieces;) cut
off the stalks at the bottom that they may be
all of a length, leaving only just enough to
serve as a handle for the green part; when
they are tender at the stalk, which will be
in from twenty to thirty minutes, they are
done enough. Great care must be taken to
watch the exact time of their becoming ten-
der; take them up just at that instant, and
they will have their true flavor and color:
a minute or two more boiling destroys both.
While the asparagus ts boiling, toast a round
of a quartern loaf, about half an inch thick;
brown it delicately on both sides; dip it
lightly in the liquor the asparagus was boiled
m, and lay it in the middle of a dish: melt
some butter, then lay in the asparagus upon
the toast, which must project beyond the as-
paragus, that the company may see there is
a toast.
ASPARAGUS, BOILED. Scrape and
tie them in small bundles; cut them even,
bol them quick in salt and water; lay them
on a toast dipped in the water the asparagus
was boiled in; pour over them melted butter.
ASPARAGUS AND EGGS. Toast a
slice of bread, butter it, and lay it on a dish;
butter some eggs thus: take four eggs, beat
them well, put them into a sauce pan with
two ounces of butter, and a little salt, until
of a sufficient consistence, and lay them on
the toast; meanwhile boil some asparagus
tender, cut the ends small, and lay them on
the eggs.
ASPARAGUS, FRENCH. BoiIit,and
chop small the heads and tender part of the
stalks, together with a boiled onion; add a
little salt and pepper, and the beaten yolk of
an egg; beat it up. Serve it on sippets of
toasted bread, and pour over it a little melt-
ed butter.
ASPARAGUS SOUP. (See Soups.)
ASPICK. Take a knuckle of veal, a
knuckle of ham, a thick slice of beef, and if
they will not make your jelly stiff enough,
add two calf's feet, or some swards of bacon
rasped; put them into a sauce-pan with a pint
of rich stock, and sweat it over a stove till
reduced to a glaze, then moisten it with stock,
boil and skim it well. Put to it two onions,
two carrots, salt, parsley, scallions, four cloves,
two bay leaves, and a clove of garlick; let
the whole stew for seven hours, then strain off
the bquor or consomme. Break four eggs
into a stewpan, and put to them the consomme
when cold, the juice of two lemons, and two
spoonfuls of tarragon, and beat it with a
whisk over the fire till near boiling, and when
it does so, remove your stew-pan to a smaller
fire, and place fire on the lid for half an hour;
then pass it through a wet napkin doubled.
If the jelly is not sufficiently clear, clarity it
a second tune. Put a layer of this jelly, about
half an inch thick, at the bottom of an aspick
mould, garnish it with truffles, whites of eggs,
sprigs of parsley, &c. according to your taste,
pour in another half inch of the jelly, w hile
liquid, with great care, so as not to dtscom-
pose your garnish, then put either calfa
brains, breasts of fowl, veal sweetbreads,
cocks' combs, kidneys, fat livers, or game.
Be sure to lay hatcver you may use, as equal
and smooth as possible, then fill up your mould
with jelly, and let it stand till set. When
wanted, dip the mould in hot water an in-
stant, place year dish on the top and turn it
over.
ATTELETS, OYSTER. (See Oys-
ters.)
ATTELETS are silver skewere.
AUNT MARY'S PUDDING. (Se*
Puddings.)
B.
BACCHIC CREAM. (See Cream.)
. BACCHIC SAUCE. (See Sauce.)
BACON. Cover a pound of nice streaked
bacon or salt pork with cold water, let it boil
gently for three-quarters of an hour; take it
up, scrape the under side well, and cut off j
the rind: grate a crust of bread not only on
the top, but all over it, and put it before the
fire for a few minutes: it must not be there
too long, or it will dry it and spoil it. Two
pounds will require about an hour and a half,
according to its thickness; the hock or gam-
mon being very thick, will take more. The
boiling of bacon is a very simple subject to
comment upon; but our main object is to
teach common cooks the art of dressing com-
mon food in the best manuer. Bacon is
sometimes as salt as salt can make it, there-
fore before it is boiled it must be soaked in
warm water for an hour or two, changing
the water once; then pare off the rusty and
smoked part, trim it nicely on the under side,
and scrape the rind as clean as possible.
Mem.—Bacon is an extravagant article in
housekeeping; there is often twice as much
dressed as need be: when it is sent to ta-
ble as an accompaniment to boiled DoulU'v


B AC
BAR
9
or veal, a pound and a half is plenty for a doz-
en people. .A good German sausage is a
very economical substttute for bacon; or fried
pork sausages.
Note.—Bacon in England and salt
pork in America are the same thing.
What we name bacon, the English call
ham.
BACON TO BROIL. Make up a sheet
of paper into the form of a dripping-pan; cut
your bacon into thin slices, cut off the rind,
lay the bacon on the paper, put it upon the
gridiron, set over a slow fire, and it will
broil cleanly.
BACON AND EGGS. Cuta quarter of
a pound of streaked bacon into thin slices,
and put them into a stew-pan over a slow fire,
taking care to turn them frequently; when
sufficiently done, pour the melted fat of the
bacon into a dish, break over it seven or eight
eggs, add two spoonfuls of gravy, a little
salt and pepper, and stew the whole over a
slow fire: pass a salamander over it, and
serve.
BACON, GAMMON, TO BAKE. Lay
it to steep all night in water, scrape it clean,
and stuff it with all manuer of sweet herbs,
as thyme, sage, savory, sweet marjoram, pen-
ny-royal, strawberry leaves, violet leaves, and
fenuel; chop these small, and mix them with
the yolks of hard eggs, pepper and nutmeg
beaten, and boil it until tender. When it is
cold pare off the under side, pull off the skin,
season it with pepper and nutmeg, and put it
in a pie or pasty, with whole cloves and slices
of raw bacon laid over it, and butter; close it,
and bake it.
BACON OR HAM SLICES. Ham, or
bacon, may be fried, or broiled on a gridiron
over a clear fire, or toasted with a fork: take
care to slice it of the same thickness in every
part. If you wish it curled, cut it in slices
about two inches long (if longer, the outside
will be done too much before the inside is
done enough); roll it up, and put a little
wooden skewer through it: put it in a cheese-
toaster or Dutch oven, for eight or ten minutes,
turning it as it gets crisp. This is considered
the handsomest way of dressing bacon;. but
we like it best uncurled, because it is crisper,
and more equally done. Slices of ham or
bacon should not be more than half a quarter
of an inch thick, and will eat much more
mellow if soaked in hot water for a quarter
of an hour, and then dried in a cloth before
they are broiled, &c.
BACON RELISHING RASHERS.
If you have any cold bacon, you may make
a very nice dtsh of it by cutting it into slices
about a quarter of an inch thick; grate some
crust of bread, as directed for ham and pow-
der them well with it on both sides; lay the
rashers in a cheese-toaster, they wifl be
browned on one side in about three minutes,
turn them and do the other. These are a
delicious accompaniment to poached or fried
eggs: the bacon having been boiled first, is
tender and mellow. Th-:y are an excellent
g;trnish round veal cutlets, or sweetbreads,
or calf s head hash, or green peas or beans,
&c.
BAIN MARIE. A flat vessel, contain-
ing boiling water, meant to hold other sauce-
pans, either for purposes of cookery or to keep
dishes hot. The advantages of preserving
the heal of dishes by the bain marie is this,
that no change is effected in the flavor of
the ingredients.
BALM BEER. (See Beer.)
BANBURY CAKES. (See Cakes.)
BARLEY CREAM. (See Cream.)
BARLEY WATER. Take a couple of
ounces of pearl barley, wash it clean with
cold water, put it into half a pint of boiling
water, and let it boil for five minutes; pour
off this water, and add to it two quarts of
boiling water: boil it to two pints, and strain
it. 1 he above is simple barley water. To
a quart of this is frequently added two ounces
of figs, sliced; the same of raisins, stoned;
half an ounce of liquorice, sliced and bruised;
and a pint of water. Boil it till it is re-
duced to a quart, and strain. Obs.—These
drinks arc intended to assuage thirst in ardent
fevers and inflammatory disorders, tor which
plenty of mild diluting liquor is one of the
principal remedies: and if not suggested by
the medical attendant, is frequently demanded
by honest instinct, in terms too plain to be
misunderstood: the stomach sympathizes with
every fibre of the human frame, and no part of
it can be distressed without in some degree
oftending the stomach: therefore it is of tne
utmost importance to sooth this grand organ,
by rendering everything we offer to it as
elegant and agreeable as tht, nature of the
case will admtt of: the barley drink prepared
according to the second receipt, will be re-
ceived with pleasure by the most delicate
palate.
BARLEY BROTH. (See Broth.)
BARLEY GRUEL. Take three ounces
of pearl barley, of which make a quart of
batley water; if it be not white, shift it once
or twice; put in two ounces of currants clean


BE A
BEE
1
0
ptcked and washed, and when they are pltunp-
ed, pour out the gruel and let it cool a little;
then put in the yolks of three eggs well Ixitt-
en, half a pint of white wine, and of new
thick cream half a pint, and lemon-peel;
then sweeten with fine sugar to your taste;
stir it gently over the fire, until it is thick as
cream.
BARLEY PUDDING. (See Pud-
ding.)
BARBERRY JELLY. (See Jelly.)
BARBERRY CONSERVE. Put around
of ripe barlmrries and half an ounce of pow-
dered fenuel seed into a silver vessel, wtth a
glass of water; boil them three or four times,
and press the juice through a sieve. Replace
the vessel on the fire with the juice, and add
to it a pound and a half of sugar, boiled au
vasse. Boil together a few times, and then
pour the conserve into cases.
BARBERRY SIRUP. (See Sirup.)
BARBERRIES TO PICKLE. Boil the
bruised berries of a few bunches in salt-
and-water; strain, and put a gill of the
ltquor to a imart of vinegar, with an ounce
of salt, a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar,
a quarter of an ounce of pounded ginger, and
a little sliced horse-radish; boil ana strain
it, then pour it hot over the barberries, the
finest bunches having been previously select-
ed and placed in jars; when cold, cover them
closely with bladder. They may also be
kept in a jar, with a strong brine of salt-and-
water poured over them. When any scum
is observed upon the surface, the brine must
be poured off, and some fresh added. They
are kept closely covered.
BARBERRY SIRUP. (See Sirup.)
BASIL VINEGAR. (See Vinegar.)
BATH BUNS. (See Buns.)
BATTER FOR FISH, MEAT, FRIT-
TERS, &c. Prepare it with fine flour, salt,
a little oil, beer, vinegar, or white wine and
the whites of eggs beat up; when of a proper
thickness it will drop out of the spoon about
the size of a nutmeg at once. Fry in oil or
nog's lard. .
BATTER PUDDING. (See Pud-
ding.)
BEANS. Cut, wash, and boil the beans,
and then throw them into a cullender. Put a
piece of butter into your table-dish, lay the
Leans on it, and garnish them with chopped
parsley laid round like a cord; heat the dish
and serve.
BECHAMELLE. Reduce some sauce
toumee over a good fire, moisten with chick-
en broth or consomme, constantly stirring to
prevent its catching; when of the proper con-
sistence, add two glasses of boiling cream,
continue stirring; pass it through a hair sieve
and serve.
BECHAMEL, OR WHITE SAUCE.
Cut in square pieces, half an inch thick, two
pounds of leap veal, half a pound of lean lam;
melt in a stewpan two ounces of butter;
w hen melted, let the whole simmer until it
is ready to catch at the bottom (it requires
great attention, as, if it happen to catch at
the bottom of the stewpan, it will spoil the
look of your sauce); then add to it three
table-spoonfuls of flour; when well mixed,
add to it three pints of broth or water (pour
a little at a time, thai the thickening be
smooth); stir it until it boil; put the stew-
pan on the corner of the stove to boil gently
for two hours; season it with four cloves,
one o.tion, twelve pepper-corns, a blade of
mace, a few mushrooms and a fagot made
of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bay leaf.
Let the sauce reduce to a quart, skim the fat
off, and strain it through a tam is cloth. To
make a bechamel sauce, add to a quart of
the above a pint of good cream; stir it until
it is reduced to a good thickness; a few
musltrooms give a good flavor to that sauce;
strain it through a tamis cloth.
BEEF. The names of the various pieces,
according to the method of dividing the car-
cass, are as follows:—The hind quarter con-
tains the Sirloin; Rump; Edge-bonr; But-
tock, or Round; Mouse Buttock; Veiny
Piece; Thick Flank; Thin Flank; Leg
Ran; Legs; Fore Rib; Five Ribs.—The
fore quarter contains the Middle Rib of four
ribs; Chuck of three ribs; Shoulder, or Leg-
of-Mutton Piece, containing a part of the
Blade-bone; Brisket; Clod; Neck End, or
Sticking Piece; Shin; Cheek. Besides
these are the Tongue and Palate. The En-
trails consist of the Heart; Sweetbreads;
Kidneys; Skirts; and three kinds of Tripe,
the Double, the Roll, and the Red Tripe.
Ox beef is considered the best. The flesh
should feel tender, be fine in the grain, and
of a bright red color, nicely marbled or mix-
ed with fat. The fat should be white, rather
than of a yellow color.
Heifer beef is excellent when finely fed,
and is most suitable for small families. The
bone should be taken out of a round of beef
before it is salted, and it must be washed,
skewered, and bound round firmly before be-
ing boiled. Salt beef should be put on with


BEE
BEE
1
1
plenty of cold water, and when it boils the
scum removed. It is then kept simmering
for some hours. A piece weighing fifteen
pounds will require three hours and a half to
boil. Carrots and turnips for garnishing
should be put on to boil with the beef. If
in the least tainted, a piece of charcoal may
be boiled with it.
When beef is to be kept any length of time,
it should be carefully wiped every day. In
warn', weatner, wood vinegar is an excellent
preservative: it is put all over the meat with
a brush. To protect the meat from flies, it
may be sprinkled over with pepper. Tainted
meat may be restored by washing in cold
water, afterwards in strong chamomtle tea,
after which it may be sprinkled with salt and
used the following day, first washing it
in cold water. Roughly pounded charcoal
rubbed all over the meat also restores it when
tainted. In Scotland meat is frequently kept
a fortnight smothered in oatmeal, and care-
fully wiped e|ery day; and if it should be a
little tainted, tt ts soaked some hours before
it is used, in oatmeal and water.
These directions equally apply to all sorts
of meat. The sirloin is the prime joint for
roasting. When to be used, it should be
washed, then dried with a clean cloth, and
the fat covered over with a piece of white pa-
per tied on with thread. The spit should be
kept at all times exceedingly clean: it must
be wiped dry immediately after it is drawn
from the meat, and washed and scoured every
time it is used. Care should be taken to bal-
ance the roast properly upon the spit, but, if
not exactly right, it is better to make it equal
by fastening on a leaden-headed skewer than
to pierce it again. The fire should be pre-
Cared by putting on plenty of coals at the
ack. When put down, it should be about
'ten inches from the fire, and gradually drawn
nearer. It is first basted with a little butter
or fresh dripping, and then well basted with
its own fat all the time it I. roasting. Ten
mmutes before serving, it should be sprinkled
with a little salt, then dredged with flour, and
basted till it is frothed. When it is drawn
from the spit some gravy will run out, to
which may be added a little boiling salt-and-
water poured along the bone: the beef is then
garnished with plenty of finely scraped horse-
radish. A sirloin, weighing about fifteen
pounds, should be roasted for tbree hours and
a half. A thinuer piece of the same weight
requires only three hours. In cold weather
meat requires longer roasting than in warm,
and if newly killed than if it has beer kept.
BEEF ALAMODE. (1) Take about
eleven pounds of the mouse buttock, or clod
of beef, or a blade-bone, or the sticking-piece,
it the like weight of the breast of veal; cut
tt into pieces of three or four ounces each; put
three or four ounces of beef drippings, and
mince a couple of large onions, and put them
into a large deep stewpan; as soon as it is
quite hot, flour the meat, put it into the stew-
pan, keep stirring it with a wooden spoon;
when it has been on about ten minutes, dredge
it with flour, and keep doing so till you have
stirred in as much as you think will thicken
it; then cover it with boiling water (it will
take about a gallon), adding it by degrees,
and stirring it together; skim it when it boils,
and then put in one drachm of ground black
pepper, two of allspice, and two bay leaves;
set the pan.by the side of the fire, or at a dis-
tance over it and let tt stew very slowly for
about thj:ee hours; when you find the meat
sufftciently tender, put it into a tureen, and
it is ready for table.
BEEF ALAMODE. (2) Take the
bone out of a small round of fine ox beef, cut
some fat bacon in long strips, dip them into
common and shallot vmegar mixed, and roll
them in tlte following seasoning: Grated nut-
meg, black and Jamaica pepper, one or two
cloves, and some salt, parsley, chives, lemon-
thyme, notted marjoram, and savoury, shred
quite small. Lard the beef very thickly, bind
it firmly with tape, and rub the outside with
the seasoning. Put it into a saucepan, with
the rind of a lemon, four large onions, the red
part of three or four carrots, and two turnips
cut into dice; add a tea-cupful of strong ale
and one of vinegar; let it stew for six or eight
hours, turning it two t r three times. Half
an hour before serving, take out the beef and
vegetables, skim off the fat, strain the sauce,
and thicken it with a little flour-and-water
mixed smooth, add a tea-cupful of Port wine,
return it all into the pot, and let it boil.
BEEF ALAMODE. (3) Take a rump
or piece of beef, bone it^beat it well and lard
it with fat bacon, then put it into a stewpan
with some rind of bacon, a calf's foot, an
onion, carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, a bay
leaf, thyme, a clove of garlic, some cloves,
salt, and pepper, pour over the whole a glass
of water, let it stew over a slow fire for six
hours at least. A clean cloth should be
placed over the stew pan before the lid is
put on, which must be carefully closed.
When it is done, strain the gravy tln'ough a
sieve, clear off the fat, and serve.
BEEF ALADAUBE. Take a round,
a rump, or a veiny piece of beef, lard it with
bacon, half roast it, or fry it brown; put it
into a stewpan or a pot that will just hold
it; add some gravy, an onion stuck with
cloves, half a pint of white wine, a gill of
vinegar, a bunch of sweet herbs, pepper
cloves, mace, and salt; cover it down very
close, let it but just simmer till it is tender",


BEE
BEE
12 •
take two ox palates, two sweetbreads, truf-
fles, morels, artichoke bottoms, stew them all
together in some gravy, and pour over the
beef; have ready some forced meat balls fried,
make some long, others round, dip some sip-
pets into batter, fry and cut them three cor-
ner ways, and stick them into the meat; lay
the balls round the dish.
BEEF ALABRAISE. (1) Bone a
rump of beef; lard it very thickly with salt
pork seasoned with pepper, salt, cloves, mace,
and allspice, and season the beef .with pepper
and salt; put some slices of bacon into the
bottom of the pan, with some whole black pep-
per, a little allspice, one or two l«,y leaves, two
onions, a clove of garlic, and a bunch of
sweet herbs. Put in the beef, and lay over it
sorne slices of bacon, two quarts of weak
stock, and half a pint of white wine. Cover
it closely, and let it stew between six and
seven hours. Sauce for the beef is made of
part of the liquor it has been stewed in,
strained, and thickened with a little flour and
butter, adding some green onions cut small,
and pickled mushrooms. It is poured hot
over the beef.
BEEF ALABRAISE. (2) After a
rump of beef has hung for five or six days,
Irene, and lard it thickly, but so as not to ap-
pear upon the surface, with bits of salt pork
or ham cut about half an inch square, and
rolled in the following seasoning well mixed:
—Finely minced onion, parsley, thyme, a lit-
tle garlic, pepper, and salt. What ts left over
of the seasoning add to a pint of \ inegar, one
of Port wine, and a tea^cupful of salad oil;
steep the beef in this for one night; the fol-
lowing clay paper it, and roast it in a cradle
spit. Baste it well, and serve it with a thick
brown gravy. A lit'le lemon-jutce and sliced
pickled cucumbers may be added. Garnish
with slices of boiled carrot and scraped horse-
radish, y
BEEF ALANGLAISE. Take a rump
of tieef, or any piece you like better of the
same size; tie it up neatly with packthread,
and put it into a stewpan with two or three
carrots, a parsnip, three or four onions, a
bunch of parsleyand green onions, a clove of
garlic, a bay leaf, thyme, and basil; moisten
with some stock or water, season, and let
the beef stew gently till half dune, then put in
a few small cabbages, prepared in the follow-
ing manuer; boil a large cabbage, and hav-
ing squeezed it perfectly dry, take off the
leaves one by one, and put within each leaf
little veal or other forcemeat, surrounding
it with three or four more of the leaves, in
such a manuer as to form little cabbages,
something larger than an egg; tie these with
oacktlu-ead, and let them be stewed with the
beef. When the Jvhotu is done, clean awaj
the outside loose fat, and put your beef in a
dish, cut the little cabbages in half, and place
tltem round the dish, wtth the cut side outi
ward. Take a little of the stew, strain it
through a sieve, and having skimmed off the
fat, add a little cullis to thicken it. Reduce
this over the fire to the consistence of a sauce,
serving it over the meat and cabbages.
BEEF BALLS. Mince very finely a
piece of tender beef, fat and lean; mince an
onion, with some boiled parsley; add grated
bread crumbs, and season with pepper, salt,
grated nutmeg, and lemon-| eel; mix all to-
gether, and moisten it with an egg beaten;
roll it into balls; flour and fry them in tail-
ing fresh dripping. Serve them with fried
bread crumbs, or with a thickened brown
gravy.
BEEF BOUILLI. (1) In plun Eng-
lish, is understood to mean bailed l«ef; but
its culinary acceptation, in the French kitch-
en, is fresh beef dressed without boiling, and
only very gently simmered by a blow fire.
Cooks have seldom any notion, thu'. good soup
can be made without destroying a great deal
of meat; however, by a judicious regulation
of the fire, and a vtgilant attendance on the
soup-kettle, this may be accomplished. You
shall have a tureen of such soup as will satisfy
the most fastidious palate, and the meat make
its appearance at table, at the same time, in
possession of a full portion of nutritious succu-
lence. Thts requires nothing more than to
stew the meat very slowly (instead of keeping
the pot boiling a gallop, as common cooks
too commonly do), and to take it up as soon
as it is done enough. See "Soup aud
bonilli," "Beef Shin stewed," " Scotch
barley broth." Meat cooked in this manuer
affords much more nourishment than it does
dressed in the common way, is easy of diges-
tion in proportion as it is tender, and an in-
vigorating, substantial diet, especially valua-
ble to the poor, w hose laborious employments
require support.
BEEF BOUILLI. (2) Take a rump
of beef, or part of one; bone and tie it togeth-
er in a neat form, and put it into a pot, with
any odd bits of butcher's meat you may hap-
pen to have in the house, either beef, veal, or
mutton; you may add, also, the bones, feet,
and necks of poultry or game, the meat of
which has been taken for other dishes; place
your p tt on a moderate fire, not quite full of
water, and skim gently. When it has Iwiled
a short time, put in some salt, turnips, six
carrots, and six onions, into one of which you
should stick three cloves; add a bunch of
leeks. Let the whole boil gently, till the beet
is perfectly done; then taks it out, and serve


BEE
BEE
13
it up either with fresh parsley, with a sauced
or with onions or other vegetables.
BEEF BROSE. After any large piece
of beef has lieen taken out of the pot it was
boiled in, skim off the fat with part of the
liquor, and boil it in a saucepan. Have
ready in a bowl oatmeal that has Iieen toasted
brown before the fire, pour in the boiling
liquor and stir it a little; if too thick, add
more liquor, and send it to table quite hot.
BEEF BAKED. Let a buttock of beef
which has been in salt about a week, be well
washed and put into an earthen pan, with a
pint of water; cover the pan tight with two
or three sheets offoolscap paper—let it bake
four or five huurs in a moderately heated
oven.
BEEF BAKED WITH POTATOES.
Boil some potatoes, peel, and pound them in
a mortar with one or two small omons;
moisten them with milk and an egg beaten
up; add a little salt and pepper. Season
slices of beef, or mutton chops, with salt and
pepper, and more onion, if the flavor is ap-
proved; rub the bottom of a pudding dish
witb butter, and put a layer of the mashed
potatoes, which should lie as thick as a bat-
ter, and then a layer of meat, and so on al-
ternately till the dish ts filled, ending with
potatoes. Bake it in an oven for one hour.
BEEF TO COLLAR. Cut off the end
of a brisket of beef, and bone it; sprinkle it
with salt and saltpetre, and let it lie a week;
mix together some grated nutmeg, Jamaica
and black pepper, some chopped lemon thyme,
sweet marjoram, and parsley; strew it over
the meat, roll it up hard, sew it in a cloth,
put it mto a large jar of water, tie it closely,
and bake it in an oven; take it out of the
jar and press it with a heavy weight. When
it is quite cold, take off the cloth, and keep
it dry.
BEEF BROTH. (See Broth.)
BEEF, COLD RUMP STEAKS TO
WARM. Lay them in a stewpan, with
one large c.tion cut in quarters, six berries
of allspice, the same of black pepper, cover
the steaks with boiling water, let them stew
gently one hour, thicken the liquor with flour
and butter rubbed together on a plate; if a
pint of gravy, about one ounce of flour, and
. the like weight of butter, will do; put it into
the stewpan, shake it well over dte fire for
live minutes, and it is ready; lay the steaks
and onions on a dish and pour the gravy
through a sieve over them.
BEEF CULLIS. (See Cullis.)
BEEF, COLD TENDERLOIN. (1)
Cut off entire the inside of a large sirloin of
beef, brown it all over in a stewpan, then
add a quart of water, half a pint of Port wine,
a tea-cupful of strong beer, two table-spoonfuls
of vinegar, some pepper, salt, and a large
onion finely minced; cover the pan closely,
and let it stew till the beef be very tender
Garnish with pickles.
BEEF, COLD TENdERLOIN. (2)
Cut off the meat, with a little of the fat, into
strips three inches long and half an inch
thick; season with pepper and salt, dredge
them with flour, and fry them brown in but-
ter; then simmer them in a rich brown gravy;
add of mushroom catchup, onion, and shallot
vinegar, a table-spoonful each. Garnish
with fried parsley.
BEEF FILLET IN MADEIRA. Lard
a good fillet of beef, the same as for roasting,
join the ends together, and place it in this
manuer in a stewpan, with some onions, car-
rots, and a bouquet garni, some consomme
and Madeira, cover it with a buttered paper;
let it boil for a moment, and afterwards let
it boil slowly. Put fire upon the top of your
stewpan. When it is done strain the broth
through a silk sieve, reduce it, and serve it
as a sauce to your meat.
BEEF FILLET ROASTED. This fil-
let lies only in the inside of the sirloin next
to the chine, and is the tenderest part of the
ox; spit this on a small spit, but do not run
it through the best part of the meat: roast it
gently, and baste it with butter; catch gravy
in a dish while the beef is roasting; in the
meantime make a sauce for it wtth sweet
herbs and parsley shred fine, the yolks of four
eggs, an onion, and some orange-peel chop-
ped small; put these into sweet butter, gravy,
a spoonful or two of strong broth and vine-
gar, stew them all together. Put your beef
into this sauce, and serve it hot.
BEEF FRICANDEAU. Take a nice
bit of lean beef, lard it with bacon, seasoned
with pepper, salt, cloves, mace, and allspice.
Put it into a stewpan with a pint of broth,
a glass of white wine, a bundle of parsley, all
sorts of sweet herbs, a clove of garlick, a
shallot or two, four cloves, pepper and salt.
When the meat is become tender, cover it
close; skim the sauce well, and strain it.
Set it on the fire, and let it boil till it is re
duced to a glaze. Glaze the larded side with
this, and serve the meat on sorrel sauce.
BEEF GOBBETS. Take about six
pounds of any piece of beef, except the leg or
shin, cut it uto pieces about the size of a hen's
egg, put them lnto a stewpan, and just covet


BEE
BEE
14
them with water, put them over the fire, and
when the ecum rises, skim it clear off, then
put in some cloves, mace, allspice, and whole
pepper, tied in a muslin, six heads of celery,
cut an inch long and well washed, a carrot
or two cut in slices, two turnips cut in dice,
a bundle of sweet herbs, some pepper and
salt, and a crust of bread; stew it till the
meat is tender, and then take out the spice,
herbs, and bread; have some crusts of French
roll crisped before the fire, put them in a dish,
and put the meat, &c. over them. Yon put
in two ounces of Scotch barley or rice when
you put in the herbs.
BEEF GRAVY. (See Gravy.)
BEEF II-BONE. Is to be managed in
exactly the same manuer as the round, but
will be sooner boiled, as it is not so solid.
An H-bone of 201bs. will be done enough in
about four hours; of lOIbs. in three hours,
more or less, as the weather is hotter or
colder. Be sure the boiler is big enough to
allow it pleuty of water-room: let it be well
covered with water: set the pot on one side
of the fire to boil geutly: if it boils quick at
i first, no ait can make it tender after. The
slower it boils, the better it will look, and
the tenderer it will be. The same accom-
panying vegetables as in "Beef Salt Round."
Dress pleuty of carrots, as cold carrots are a
general favorite with cold beef. Mem.—
Epicures say, that the soft, fat-like marrow,
which lies on the back, is delicious when hot,
and the hard fat about the upper corner is
best when cold.
BEEF HASHED. (1) Take three or
four onions, chop them very fine, and put them
iuto a stewpan, with a piece of butter and
a little flour; stir it over the fire till nearly
done and well browned; then moisten them
with a little stock and half a glass of wine,
adding some salt and coarse pepper; let them
stew till they are thoroughly done, and very
little sauce remains; then put in the cold
beef, minced small, and let the whole sim-
mer till it has taken the flavor of the onion.
When you serve, add a spoonful of mustard
and a little vinegar.
BEEF HASHED. (2) Cut some of
the underdone part of the beef, in slices,
with some of die fat, put it iuto a mall
stewpan, with some onion or shallot, (a
very little will do), a little water, pepper,
and salt: boil it till the onion is qmte soft,
then put some of the gravy of the meat to it,
and the hash. Do not let it boil; have a
small hot dish with sippets of bread ready,
and put the hash iuto it, but first mix a large
spoonful of vinegar with it; if shallot vinegar
is used there will be no need of the onion or
raw shallot. Yon may add a spoonful of
walnut liquor or catchup. Observe, that it
is owing to boiling hashes or minces, thaj
they get hard. All sorts of stews, or meal
dressed a second time, should be only sim-
mered; and this last only hot through.
BEEF HAM. Rub a little common salt
over a piece of beef of about tweuty pounds
weight; take out the bone, and in one or two
days, rub well iuto the beef the following in-
gredieuts, finely pounded and well mixed:
—two ounces of sal-prunella, four owices of
brown sugar, six ounces of bay salt, one
ounce of white pepper, and of cloves and nut-
meg, a quarter of an ounce each; then strew
over it half a pound of common salt. Let it
lie fifteen days, turning it daily. It is then
hang up; or when taken out of the pickle, it
may be boiled, and allowed to stand till cold
in the water in which it was boiled; or it
may be baked in a deep dish, covered with
a coarse paste.
BEEF HEART, TO ROAST. Wash
it well, and clean all the blood carefully from
the pipes: parboil it ten or fifteen minutes in
boiling water; drip the water from ii; put
in a stuffing which has been made of bread
crumbs, minced suet or butter, sweet marjo-
ram, lemon thyme, and parsley, season-
ed with, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Put it
down to roast while hot, baste it well with
butter, froth it up, and serve it with melted
butter and vinegar; or with gravy in the
dish, and curreut jelly in a sauce-tureen.
To hash it, follow the directions given for
hare.
BEEF HUNG, BURGESS'S METH-
OD OF BOILING. Hung beef for grat-
ing should be put en in boiling water, and,
to preserve the color, kept boiling as fast as
possible. Allow for six pounds of beef one
hour and a half. It will keep good for a
length of time.
BEEF, HUNTING. Rub well iuto a
round of beef weighing about folly pounds,
three ounces of saltpetre; let it stand five or
six hours; pound three ounces of allspice,
one of black pepper, and mix them with two
pounds of stdt, and seven ounces of brown su-
gar. Rub the beef all over with 'he salt and
spices, let it remain fourteen days, and every
other day turn and rub it with the pickle;
then wash off the Hpices, and put it iuto a
deep pan. Cut small nearly six pounds of
beef suet, put some iuto the bottom of the
pan, *but the greater part upon the top of the
beef. Cover it with a coarse paste,'and
bake it eight hours. When cold, take oft'
the crust, and pour off the gravy. Ii will
keep good for three moutbs. Preserve the


BEE
16 BEE
«ut, strain the sauce, thicken it with a little
flour; add a little celery ready boiled, a little
catchup, put in the meat, just simmer it up. Or
the celery may be omitted, and the ragout en-
riched by addmg mushrooms fresh or pickled,
artichoke-bottoms boiled and quartered, and
hard yolks of eggs. A piece of flank, or
any ptece that can be cut free from bone,
wtll do instead of the rump.
BEEF RISSOLES. Chop finely a
pound of lean tender beef, and a quarter of a
pound of beef suet; pound them in a marble
mortar; mix with it a quarter of a pound of
grated bread, a little onion, and a head of
gurlick bruised; season with salt and pepper;
bind it with three eggs well beaten; make it
up into small cakes, fry them of a light brown,
then stew them in gravy for fifteen or twenty
minutes.
BEEF RIBS BONED AND ROLLED.
When you have kept two or three rtbs of
beef till quite tender, take out the bones, and
skewer it as round as possible (tike a fillet
of veal): before they roll it, some cooks egg
it, and sprinkle it with veal stuffing. As the
meat is more in a solid mass, it will require
more time at the fire; a piece of tenor twelve
pounds weight will not be well and thoroughly
roasted in lesc than four and a half hours.
For the first ha,f hour, it should not be less
than twelve inches from the fire, that it may
get gradually warm to the centre: the last
half hour before it wilt be finished, sprinkle
a little salt over it; aud if you wish to froth
it, flour it, &c. .
BEEF RUMP BAKED. Take a rump
of beef, what size you please, bone and lard
it, season it with salt and fine spices put it
into a stewpan just large enough to hold it,
together with half a pint of white wine, some
green onions, mushrooms, and shallots; some
lean bacon is an improvement. Close the
edges of the pan with a strong paste; let it
stew in an on for five or six hours according
to the size of your meat, then serve it with
its own sauce strained. You may dress a sir-
loin in the same way.
BEEF RUMP TO STEW. (1) Bind
the beef tightly, stick in four cloves, and put
it in a saucepan, with three quarts of water,
a quarter of an ounce of black pepper half
beaten, some salt, a bunch of sweet herbs,
and three anchovies; turn it often, and when
half done take it out, pour off the liquor; put
in the beef again, with a pint of Port wine
and half a pint of table beer made scalding
hot, and some of the liquor strained; stew it
till tender, clear off the fat, and if the sauce
is not strong enough, add well-seasoned beef
gravy; thicken it with flour rubbed down in
a little cold water. Dish the beef, and pour
the gravy round it.
BEEF RUMP TO STEW. (2) Tie
up the beef, and put it on to stew with nearly
as much cold water as will cover it; add three
pounds of fat bacon cut into slices, a handful
of thyme, eight onions, four small carrots,
two turnips, two or three bay leaves, some
black pepper, a little allspice, mace, and
three cloves, a pint of Port wine and one of
Sherry. Let it stew gently between seven
and etght hours. Take out the beef, strain
the liquor, and skim off all the fat; thicken
it with a little flour rubbed down in cold
water, boil it up, and pour it over the beef.
Have ready carrots and turnips, cut accord-
ing to fancy, and boiled tender in weak gra-
vy, and put them round the beef before serv-
ing.
BEEF Rt MP-STEAKS STEWED.
The steaks must be a litt'e thicker than for
broiling: let them be all the same thickness,
or some will be done too little, and others too
much. Put an ounce of butter into a stew-
pan, with two onions; when the Ix:;er is
melted, lay in the rump-steaks, let them stand
over a slow fire for five minutes, then turn
them and let the other side of them fry for
five minutes longer. Have ready boiled a
pint of button onions; they will take from
half an hour to an hour; put the liquor they
were boiled in to the steaks; if there is not
enough of it to cover them, add broth or boil-
ing water, to make up enough for thal purpose,
with a dozen corns of black popper, and a
little salt, and let them simmer very gently
for about an hour and a half, and then strain
off as much of the liquor (about a pint and
a half) as you think will make the sauce.
Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan;
when it is melted, stir in as much flour as
will make it into a stiff paste; some add
thereto a table-spoonful of claret, or Port
wine, the same of mushroom catchup half a
tea-spoonful of salt and a quarter of a tea-
spoonful of ground black pepper: add the
liquor by degrees; let it boil up for fifteen
minutes; skim it, and strain it; serve up the
steaks with the onions round the dish,and pour
the gravy over. Veal cutlets or mutton chopi
may be done the same way, or as veal olives.
BEEF RUMP-STEAK BROILED
WITH ONION GRAVY. Peel and slice
two large onions, put them into a quart stew-
pan, with two table-spoonfuls of water; cover
the stewpan close, and set it on a slow fire-
till the water has boiled away, and the onions
have got a little browned; then add half a
pint of good broth, and boil the onions tlll
they are tender; strain the broth from them,
and chop them very fine, and season it with


BEEF
BEEF
17
mushroom catchup, pepper, and salt: put the
onion into it, and let it boil gently for five
minutes; pour it into the dish, and lay over it
a broiled rump steak. If instead of broth
use good beef gravy, it will be super-
ve.
BEEF SAUSAGES. Take two beef
steaks about the size of two hands, and the
thickness of a finger; beat them well to make
them flat, and pare the edges of them; then
mince "the parings with lieef suet, parsley,
green onions, mushrooms, two shallots, and 1
some basil leaver, the whole shred fine, and
mixed into a forcemeat with the yolks of four
eggs; spread this forcemeat on the slices of
beef, and roll them up in the form of sausages;
tie them up with packthread, and stew them
with a little stock, a glass of wine, some salt,
pepper, an onion stuck with two or three
cloves, a carrot, and a parsnip; when they
are done, strain the liquor; and, having
skimmed off the fat, reduce it over the fire
to the consistence of a sauce. Take care
that the sauce is not too higly flavored, and
serve it over your sausages; or they may lie
served with any ragout of vegetables you
please. To serve the sausages cold, to make
a dish for the second course, t educe the sauce
by letting it boil with the sausages till almost
all the fat is consumed ; then let them stand
to cool with what remains of the sauce ad-
hering to them, and serve upon a napkin.
BEEF, SHORT OR SPICED. (To
be eaten cold.) Hang up ten or twelve
pounds of the middle part of a brisket of
beef for three or four days, then rub well into
it three ounces of finely powdered saltpetre,
and, if spice is approved of, one ounce of
allspice, and half an ounce of black pepper;
let tt stand all night, then salt it with three
pounds of well-pounded bay salt, and half a
pound of treacle, in which let it remain ten
days, rubbing it daily. When it is to be
boiled, sew it closely in a cloth, let the water
only simmer, upon no account allowing it to
boil, for nine hours over a slow fire, or upon a
stove. When taken out of the water, place
two sticks across the pot, and let the beef stand
over the steam for half an hour, turning it
from side to side, then press it with a heavy
weight. It must not be taken out of the
cloth till perfectly cold.
'BEEF SOUP. (See Soup.)
BEEF, SPRING GARDEN. Cut a
piece of lean beef into thin slices like Scotch
collops, lard it thick with bacon, and put it
into a frm with salt, pepper, mace, two or
three bay leaves, and a bunch of sweet herbs;
bake it; then clear out all the gravy, and fill
tt up with clarified butter.
BEEF TO SALT FOR IMMEDIATE
USE. Salt a round of beef moderately up-
on the tops and sides, put it upon sticks, or
the tongs of a cheese-tub, over a tub of cold
water, and the salt will he drawn through it,
so that it will be fit for boiling next day.
ANOTHER METHOD IS—To rub
for half an hour into any piece of beef a good
quantity of salt, and let it lie for three or
four days without touching it, when it may
be used.
I
BEEF SIRLOIN. The noble sirloin of
about fifteen pounds (if much thicker, the out-
side will he done too much before the inside
is enough), will require to be before the fire
about three and a half or four hours; take
care to spit it evenly, that it may not be
heavier on one side than the other; put a little
clean dripping into the drippingpan, (tie a
sheet of paper over it to preserve the fat),
baste it well as soon as it is put down, and
every quarter of an hour all the time it is
roasting, till the last half hour; then take
off the paper, and make some gravy for it;
stir the fire and make it clear: to brown and
froth it, sprinkle a little salt over it,. baste it
with butter, and dredge it with flour; let it
go a few minutes longer, till the froth rises,
take it up, put it on the dish, &c. Garnish it
with hillocks of horse-radish, scraped as fine
as possible with a very sharp knife. A York-
shirs pudding is an excellent accompaniment.
BEEF SHIN STEWED. Desire the
butcher to saw 'the yone into three or four
pieces, put it into a stewpan, and just cover
it with cold water; when it simmers, skim
it clean; then put in a bundle of sweet herbs,
a large onion, a head of celery, a dozen ber-
ries of black pepper, and the same of allspice:
stew very gently over a slow fire till the meat
is tender; tlus will take from about three -
hours and a half, to four and a half. Take three
carrots, peel and cut them into small squares;
peel and cut ready in small squares a couple
of turnips, with a couple of dozen of small
young round silver button onions; boil them,
till tender; the turnips and onions will be
enough in about fifteen minutes; the carrots
will require about twice as long: drain them
dry. When the beef is quite tender, take it
out carefully with a sltce, and put it on a dish
while you thicken a pint and a half of the gra-
vy: to do this, mix three table-spoonfuls of
flour with a tea-cupful of the beef liquor; stir
this thoroughly together till it boils, skim off
the fat, strain it through a sieve, and put your
vegetables in to warm; season with pepper,
salt, and a wine-glass of mushroom catchup,
or Port wine, or both, and pour lt over the
beef. Dr. Kitchener commends this dish as
one of the very best that i'aa be carried to
you
lati
2*


BEEF
BEER
lb
table, and advises it be called Ragout Beef.
A leg of Mutton is excelleut dressed
the same w ay.
BEEF STEAKS, BROILED. Cut
the steaks offa rump or the ribs of a fore
quarter; beat them Well with a rolling-pin.
Have the gridiron perfectlv clean and heated
over a clear quick fire; lay on the steaks,
and, with meat tongs, keep turning them con-
stautly, till they are done enough; throw a
little salt over them a little before taking them
off the fire. Serve them as hot as possible,
plain, or with a made gravy and sliced on-
ion, or rub a bit of butter upon the steaks
the momeut of serving. Mutton chops are
broiled in the same manuer.
BEEF STEAKS, STEWED. Fry the
steaks in a little butter; take them out of the
pan, and fry in it a minced onion; return the
steaks, with i little boiling water or gravy,
some pepper, salt, and a table-spoonful of vin-
egar ; stew them geutly for two or three hours;
thicken the sauce with butter rolled in flour;
and serve with or without pickles.
BEEF STEAK PIE. (See Pie.)
BEEF STEAK PUDDING. (See
Pudding.)
BEEF STEAKS, DRESSED. Cut
thin steaks, longer than they are broad, offa
rump; beat them with a rolling-pin; season
them with pepper, sa	, and finely minced
onion; roll and tie them with a thread; cut
them even at the ends; fry them brown with
a little butter; make a sauce with a piece of
butter browned with flour, some gravy or
water, a minced onion, pepper, and salt.
Boil it, and add the steaks, and let them stew
an hour. Before serving, add some mush-
room catchup, and take off the threads.
BEEF, SCARLET. Mix a little mace,
cloves, allspice, black pepper, and salt-
petre together, rub it well iuto two pounds of
tender lean beef; let it lie six days, turning
it daily, and rubbing it with the pickle; then
roll and tie it firmly with tape; put it and
the pickle iuto a small jar, with a slice or
two of beef suet under afld over it; tie it close-
ly, and bake it an hour. It is eaten cold,
cut in thin slices, and garnish with parsley.
If long kept, the color fades.
BEEF STEWED. (1) Stew in five
quarts of water the middle part of a brisket
of beef weighing ten pounds, add two onions
stuck with two cloves, one head of celery,
one large carrot, two turnips cut small, a 1
handful of sorrel leaves, half an ounce of I
black pepper, and seme salt. Stew it geut-!
ly for six hours. Make a strong gravy with
carrots and turnips, the turnips to be scraped
and fried of a brown color in butter; add
pepper, salt, a little Cayenue; thicken it with
flom- and butter, and pour it over the beef,
with the carrots and turnips.
BEEF STEWED. (2) Take ten
pounds of a brisket of beef, cut the short ribs,
and put it iuto a well-buttered saucepan, with
two large onions, stuck with three or four
cloves, two or three carrots cut iuto quarters,
a bunch of sweet herbs, a small lemon sliced,
and five quarts of water; let it stew seven
hours. Strain and clarify the gravy—thicken
it with butter and flour. Chop the carrots
with some capers, mushroom catchup, and
Cayenue. Any other pickle that is liked may
be added.
BEEF STOCK. (See Stock.)
BEEF, MUTTON, OR VEAL TEA.
Cut a pound of lean gravy meat iuto thin
slices; put it iuto a quart and half a piut of
cold water; set it over a very geutle fire,
where it will become gradually warm; when
the scum rises, let it coutinue simmering
geutly for about an hour; then strain it
through a fine sieve or a napkin; let it stand
ten minutes to settle, and then pour off the
clear tea. N. B.—An onion, and a few
grains of black pepper, are sometimes added.
If the meat is boiled till it is thoroughly
tender, you may mince it and pound it and
make potted beef.
BEEF TRIPE FRICASSEE. Let
your tripe be very white, cut it iuto slips,
put it iuto some boiled gravy, with a little
cream and a bit of butter mixed with flour;
stir it till the butter is melted; add a little
white wine, lemon-peel grated, chopped
parsley, pepper and salt, pickled mush-
rooms, or lemon-juice; shake all together;
stew it a little.
BEER, SPRUCE. When ten gallons
of water, six pounds of molasses, and three
ounces of bruised ginger have boiled togeth-
er for half an hour, two pounds of the outer
sprigs of the spruce fir are to be added, and
boiled for five minutes; the whole is then to
be strained through a hair sieve, and when
milk-warm, put iuto the cask, and a tea-
cupful of good yeast stirred well iuto it.
When it has fermeuted a day or two, it is to
be bunged up, and the following day bot-
tled. It will be fit for use in a week. The
ginger is sometimes omitted, and instead
of the spruce fir, three ounces of the essence
may be used, which is to be well wnisked,
together with the molasses, and a gallon or
two of warm water; then put iuto the cask,


BEER
B 1 3
19
which is to be filled up with water, and the
yeast added.
BEER, SPRUCE. (2) The propor-
tions are ten gallons of water, three quarts
of molasses, a tea-cupful of ginger, the same
of allspice, three ounces of hops, three
ounces and a half of the essence of spruce,
and half a pint of good yeast. The hops,
ginger, and allspice, must be boiled togeth-
er till the hops fall to the bottom; the molas-
ses and spruce are then to be dissolved in a
bucket-fuli of the liquor, the whole strain-
ed into a cask, and the yeast well stirred in;
when the fermentation ceases, the cask is
to te bunged up.
BEER, BALM. Eleven gallons of
water and ten pounds of brown sugar are
to be clarified with the whites of twelve
eggs, carefully skimmed and boiled till
nearly reduced to ten gallons; two pounds
and a half of the yellow flower of lemon
balm being put into a cask, the liquor,
when milk-warm, is to be poured over it,
and four or five table-spoonfuls of thick
yeast added. The cask must be filled up
morning and evening with what works over
it, and bunged up when the fermentation
ceases. In a month the beer may be bottled,
and in two or three months it will be fit for
drinking. Half the quantity of the flower
of lemon balm will probably be found to
communicate a flavor sufficiently strong, if
added when the fermentation is nearly over.
BEER, GINGER. For a ten-gaJon
cask, eleven gallons of water, fourteen
pounds of sugar, the juice of eighteen lem-
ons, and one pound of ginger are allowed;
the sugar and water are boiled with the
whites of eight eggs, and well skimmed;
just before commg to the boiling point, the
ginger, which must be bruised, is then ad-
ded, and boiled for twenty minutes; when
cold, the clear part is put mto the cask, to-
gether with the lemon-juice and two spoon-
fuls of yeast; when it has fermented for
three or four days, it is fined, bunged up,
and in a fortnight bottled. It may be made
w.thout the frutt.
BEER, GINGER, QUICKLY MADE.
A gallon of boiling water is poured over
three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, one
ounce and a quarter of ginger, and the peel
of one lemon; when milk-warm, the juice
of the lemon and a spoonful of yeast are ad-
ded. It should be made in tbe evening, and
bottled next morning, in half-pint stone bot-
tles, and the cork tied down with twine.
BEER TO BOTTLE. When the
brtskness and liveliness of malt liquors m
the cask fail, and they become dead and
vapid, which they generally do soon after
they are tilted; let them be bottled. Be
careful to use clean and dried bottles; leave
them unstopped for twelve hours, and then
cork them as closely as possible with good
and sound new corks; put a bit of lump su-
gar as big as a nutmeg into each bottle:
the beer will be ripe, i. e. fine and spark-
ling, in about four or five weeks: if the
weather is cold, to put it up the day before
it is drunk, place it in a room where there
is a fire. Remember there is a sediment,
&c. at the bottom of the bottles, which yoe
must carefully avoid disturbing; so pom it
off at once, leaving a wine-glassful at the
bottom.
%* If beer becomes hard or stale, a fen
grains of carbonate of potash added to it
at the time it is drunk will correct it, anr'
make draught beer as brisk as bottled ale.
BEET ROOT, May be either baked
or boiled; it will take from an hour and a
half to three hours, according to the size of
the root, to cook properly.
BEET ROOT PICKLED. Boil the
roots tender, peel, and cut them in what
shape you .please. Put them into a jar, and
pour over them a hot pickle of vinegar, pep-
per, ginger, and sliced horse-radish. You
may add capsicums and Cayenue.
BENTON SAUCE. (See Sauce.)
BENTON CAKES. (See Cakes.)
BIRDS POTTED, how to pre-
serve WHEN THEY BEGIN TO GROW
bad. When birds have come a great way
they often smell so bad that they can scarce-
ly be borne from the rankness of the butter,
by managing them in the following manuer
they may be made as good as ever. Set a
large saucepan of clean water on tbe fire;
when it boils ttke off tbe butter at tbe top,
then take the fowls out one by one, throw
them into that saucepan of water half a
minute, whip it out, and dry it in a cloth
inside and out; continue till they are all
dune, scald the pot clean; when the birds
are quite cold, season them with mace,
pepper and salt, according to taste, put
them down close in a pot, and pour clari-
fied butter over them.
BISCUITS. (1) Weigh eight eggs, an
equal weight of sugar, and the weight of four
in flour; beat up the yolks of five, and put
them in an earthen vessel with some rasped
lemon-peel and the sugar, Iieat them togeth-
er for a long time, then add the whites of
eleven eggs also well beaten, then mix in the


B I S
Bl 3
20
flour by degrees, pour this into paper cases
of whater form and size you please; «trew
powder sugar over them, and bake in a cool
oven.
BISCUITS. (2) Make a pound of flour,
the yolk of an egg, and some milk into a
very stiff paste; beat it well, knead till quite
smooth, roll very thin and cut into biscuits,
prick and bake in a slow oven till dry and
crisp.
BISCUITS, ALMOND. (1) Blanch
and pound a quarter of a pound of sweet al-
monds, sprinkling them occasionally with fine
mtgar; then beat them up for a quarter of an
hour with an ounce of flour, the yolks of three
eggs, and four ounces of fine sugar, adding
afterwards the whites of four eggs whipped to
a froth: have ready some paper moulds made
like boxes, about the length of two fingers
square; butter them within, and put in the
biscuits, throwing over them equal quantities
of flour and powdered sugar: bake in a cool
oven, and when the biscuits are done of a
good color, take them out of the papers.
Bitter almond biscuits are made in the same
manuer, with this difference, that to two
ounces of bitter almonds must be added one
ounce of sweet almonds.
BISCUITS, ALMOND. (2) Take
eight ounces of sweet, and as many bitter al-
monds, fifteen whites, and eight yolks of eggs,
two ounces of flour, and two pounds of powder
sugar, pour boiling water on your almonds,
and almost immediately after turn that away
and pour cold water on them; rub oft' the
skins one by one with a napkin, then pound
them to a paste in a mortar, moistening them
with the whites of two eggs. Beat the fif-
teen whites to a snow, and the eight yolks
with half the quantity of the sugar, and then
mix them with the almond paste; put the
remainder of the sugar into a basin; stft some
flour over it; stir the mixture till all the in-
gredients are thoroughly incorporated, and
pour it into small paper cases, glaze them
with the sugar and flour sifted over them.
Bake thom in a pretty warm oven.
BISCUITS, ALMOND (SMALL).
Beat up the yolks of three eggs for ten min-
utes, with four ounces of powder sugar and
one ounce of bitter almonds well pounded;
then add a whole egg, and beat tt up five
minutes longer. Whtp the whites to a strong
froth; mix them and an ounce and half of
fine sifted flour with the yolks; work this
paste well, and then pour tt into small well-
buttered copper moulds melon-shaped; glaze
them; sprinkle them with powder sugar,
and bake for eighteen or twenty minutes in
ft moderate oven.
BISCUITS, ALMOND (Souffles).
Blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, cut
them into dice and dry them in the oven-
Make a glaze with the whites of two new-
laid eggs; mix the almonds and a pinch of
crisped orange-llowers into this, and put it
into very small paper cases; do not fill them
above half full, as they rise considerably in
the oven, and would otherwise fall over and
spoil their appearance; bake them in a
moderately heated oven. As. soon as they
are pretty firm, they are done.
BISCUITS, ANISE (SMALL). Wash
four drachms of starred anise, and dry it in
the oven; work up the yolks of five eggs and
a quarter of a pound of powder sugar for
about ten minutes; whip the whites to a
strong froth, and mix them lightly with the
yolks: add a quarter of a pound of dry sifted
flour and the anise; pour this paste into a
paper case, eleven inches long by seven wide.
Bake it in a slow oven for about forty or
fifty minutes, when, if firm, take it out. As
soon as it is cold remove the paper, and cut
the biscuits into whatever forms you please:
dry them m the oven until they become
brittle.
BISCUIT, BREAD. Dry fine flour and
powder sugar, of each half a pound, thor-
oughly: beat up four very fresh eggs for ten
minutes, then add the sugar, beat them ten
minutes longer, put the flour, and continue
beating ten minutes more. Butter your bak-
ing plates and bake. Caraway or aniseed
may be added, if you please.
BISCUITS, BUTTER. Make a paste
as for sweet biscuits, and when you have
put in the flour, pour over it eight ounces of
melted butter, after it has cooled a little;
mix them together a short time with a wood-
en spoon, and put into buttered moulds,
which must only be filled three parts, as the
paste puffs up considerably, and would rise
from the moulds, without care.
BISCUIT CAKE. (See Cake.)
BISCUITS, CHESTNUT. Take six
ounces of roasted and skinued chestnuts, a
little grated lemon-peel, a pound and a haif
of powder sugar, and ten whites of eggs.
Pound the chestnuts to a paste, and then
beat it up in an earthen pan with the other
ingredients; when your paste is of a proper
thickness, take it up with a knife, and lay
tt on paper, and form into biscuits whatevef
size you please. Bake them in a moderate
oven, and when of a nice color take them
out. Do not remove them from the paper
till they are cold.


BI S
BI S
21
BISCUITS, dROP. (1) Pound and sift
a pound of fine sugar, take the yolks of seven
and the whites of ten eggs and beat well sepa-
rately for an hour. Dry and sift a pound of
fine flour, and when cold mix it with the
eggs and sugar, beat all together for a quarter
of an hour, drop upon paper, sift sugar over,
and bake them.
BISCUITS, DROP. (2) Beat a pound
of sugar, the yolks of four, and whites of two
eggs, with a little white wine, then put in a
pound of flour, and a few seeds, mix all well
together. Butter a paper, lay your batter
on in spoonfuls, ice them with fine sugar,
and set them in a gentle oven.
BISCUITS EN CAPSULE. Put half
a pound of fine sugar into an earthen pan,
and pour over it the yolks of twelve eggs;
put the whites into a preserving-pan, and
whisk them for half an hour; in the mean-
time the sugar and yolks of eggs must Ihi
.stirred with a wooden spoon, and pour them
on the whites; stir them gently, add six
ounces of fine flour and two of powder sugar
ltfted, and the grated rind of a lemon. Mix
it all well together, but with great care, lest
the snow of the whites should fall. With
this fill some small buttered moulds, or pa-
per cases, and bake them in a quick oven to
a deep yellow, ftrst sprinkling them with su-
gar. If they are in moulds, turn them out
when baked; but they may remain in the
paper cases, which need not be buttered.
BISCUITS, FILBERT. Take half a
pound of filberts, an ounce of bitter almonds,
the whites of six, and the yolks of three
eggs, an ounce of flour, and half a pound of
sugar; blanch and pound the lill«rts and
almonds, adding, occasionally, a little white
°f eoo to prevent their oiling. Beat the
whites to a snow, then the yolks, mix the
latter with half the sugar; beat them well,
and having mixed the other ingredients to-
gether, put them into a sieve, and whilst
yo-t are beating, sift them into the whites;
when all are thoroughly incorporated, pour
the preparation into paper cases, and bake
them in a moderate oven. A little grated
lemon-peel, or any other aromatic mgre-
dient added to the yolks, greatly improves
these biscuits.
BISCUIT, FRENCH. Weigh liveeggs,
and their weight in dried and sifted flour,
and in finely-pounded loaf sugar; beat the
whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and by
degrees beat in the sugar and the flour, and
then add the beaten yolks; with a spoon half
fill yellow tea-cups, previously rubbed with
butter, and sift loaf sugar over the top. Bake
them in a quick oven. Or, drop the biscuit
in a round form upon sheets of white paper
buttered; sift sugar over them.
BISCUIT, KING'S. Put half a pound
of butter into a basin, and work it about
well with a wooden spoon; break six eggs
and whisk them well, add a half pound of
powder-sugar, and whisk ten minutes longer,
and then mix them with the butter; stir in
six ounces of currants, and the same of dried
flour. When all is well mixed, drop it, tltr
size of a shiiling, on fiaper, and bake iti a
quick oven. Take them olT w hile hot.
BISCUIT, LEMAN'S. Sift and dry
a pound of tine tiour; rub it into a quarter
of a pound of butter, two ounces of pounderi
and sifted loaf sugar, and a bit of volatilt
salt about the size of a nut; mix in as much
new milk warmed as will make it into a stiff
paste; work it well together, and let it re-
main for two or three hours, and then roll it
out, and make it into small square biscuits,
and into round balls a little flattened; prick
them with a fork, and bake them upon tins
in a quick oven. Take care they do not
become brown.
BISCUITS, NAPLES. Put three-
quarter of a pound of flue flour to a pound
of fine sifted sugar; sift both together three
tunes, then add six eggs beaten well, and a
spoonful of rose-water; when the oven is
nearly hot, bake them, but not too wet.
BISCUIT, THE NUNS. Take the
whites of twelve eg^s, and beat them to a
froth; a pound of almonds, blanch them, and
beat them with the froth of the whites of
eggs, as it rises; then take the yolks, and
two pounds of fine sugar and beat uVm well
together, then mix the almonds with tlie
sugar and eggs; then add half a pound of
flour, with the peel of four lemons grated, and
some citron shred small; put the composition
in little cakepaus, and bake them in a quick
oven, and when they are colored, turn them
on tins to harden the bottoms: but before you
set them in the oven again, sift on them some
double-refined sugar. Let the pans be hut
tered, and fill nrcm half way.
BISCUITS, POTATO. (1) Heat the
yolks of fifteen eggs with a pound of sifted
sugar, grate the riqfl of a lemon en a piece
of lump sugar; scrape off the yellow sugar
with a knife, and having dried it well, add
j it to the above, and continue to beau till it
becomes qutte white; in the meantime whip
up an equal number of whites, and mix them
lightly with the rest; then sift into it half a
pound of potato flour; stir it in, and pour
the preparation into paper cases, but not to lill
them; glaze, and place tbe cases on paper


BIS
BIS
22
laid on a clean baking-tin, and bake in a
moderate oven.
BTSCUIT, POTATO. (2) Beat sepa-
rately the yolks and whites of ftfteen eggs, and
with the yolks beat a pound of pounded and
sifted loaf sugar, and the grated peel of a lem-
on; when very light add the whites, and sift in
through a silk sieve half a pound of flour of
potatoes; mix all lightly together, half fill
paper cases, and strew over them roughly
pounded sugar, put a piece of paper upon a
board, place the paper cases upon it, and
bake them in a moderate oven. To ornament
them, put here and there upon the top a
little red-currant jelly, and serve them.
BISCUITS, THE QUEEN'S. Take
a pound and a half of flour, a pound and a
half of fine sugar, the whites of twenty-four,
and the yolks of eighteen eggs, put in cori-
ander seed* beaten small at discretion; mix
these well together, and make them into a
soft paste, add a little soft yeast or not. Lay
this paste on paper, or in crusts about two
inches broad, and four inches long, set them
in a modivate oven, and when they begin
to turn brown, take them out, and lay them
on paper, in a dry place.
BISCUITS, RICE. Take the grated
rind of a lemon, the whites of sixteen eggs,
the yolks of six, half a pound of rice flour,
ten ounces of powder sugar, two ounces of
apple, and the same of apricot, marmalade,
and two ounces of orange-flowers. Pound
the marmalades and orange-flowers together,
then add the whites of eggs, whipped to a
snow; beat the yolks with the sugar for a
quarter of an hour, put them to the rest, and
when well mixed in, add the lemon-peel and
rice-flour; work all together, |xwr the prep-
aration into palier cases, bake them in a
moderate oven, and glaze them.
BISCUITS, SMALL. Make a paste
with a quarter of a pound of flour, three
spoonfuls of fine powder sugar, and the same
of marmalade; add whites of eggs to work
it pretty soft; and make this paste to what
shape and size you please. *
BISCUITS, SPUNGE. Beat together,
for half an hour, four well-beaten eggs, and
half a pound of finely-pou.tded loaf sugar;
then mix in lightly six ounces of dried and
aided flour, and the grated peel of a lemon,
or a tea-spoonful of essence of lemon, with a
table-spoonft,l of rose water. Flour the
pans, fill them half full, and sift pounded
Utgur over them. Bake them in a quick oven.
BISCUITS, ST. CLOUD. Sift two
ounces of rice-flour through a tammy into an
eartnen pan, with half a pound of powder
sugar, the yolks of four eggs, and a little
green lemon grated; beat them up together
for a quarter of an hour: whisk the whites
of eight eggs to a froth and mix them with
the yolks. Put this into buttered moulds or
paper cases, and bake in a moderate oven.
When done take them frcm the mould while
hot, and ice them in the tbllowing manuer:
beut up half the white of an egg and two
spoonfuls of powder-sugar with a wooden
spoon, add occasionally a few drops of lem-
on-juice; when it becomes quite white lay it
over the biscuits; and place them in the oven
a minute to dry.
BISCUIT,SUGAR. (1) Theweightof
eight eggs in finely-pounded loaf sugar, and
of four in dried flour; beat separately tlhj
whites and yolks; with the yolks beat the
sugar for half an hour, then add the whites
and the flour, and a little grated nutmeg,
lemon-peel, or pounded cinuamon. Bake
them in yellow tea-cups, or drop them upon
paper, as the French biscuits.
BISCUIT, SUGAR. (2) Mix together
one pound of dried and sifted flour, the same
quantity of pounded and sifted loaf sugar,
ten well-beaten eggs, and a few pounded
cloves. Drop this upon floured tins, and
.bake it.
BISCUIT, SWEET. One pound of
flour, half a pound of butter, the same quan-
tity of finely-pounded sugar, and tw o eggs,
without being beaten; make it all into a
very stiff paste with cool water, roll it out,
and to form the hiscuits, roll a bit of the
paste into a bail about the size of the yolk
of an egg, flatten it a little, and place them
upon tins to bake.
BISCUITS, YARMOUTH. Pick and
wash half a pound of currants, dry them well,
rub a little flour w ith them, a.td put them
with half a pound of powder-sugar, three-
quarters of a pound of sifted flour, and half
a pound of fresh butter; mix them into a
paste with three eggs, roll it out to the
thickness of the eighth of an inch, cut them
into what shapes you please. Bake them of
a light color in a hot oven.
BISHOP. Roast four good-sized bitter
oranges till they are of a pale brown color;
lay them in a tureen, and put over them half
a pound of pounded loaf sugar, and three
glasses of claret; place the cover on the
tureen, and let it stand till next day. When
required for use, put the tureen into a pan of
boiling water, press the oranges with a spoon,
and run the juice through a sieve; thi:n boil
the remainder of the bottle of claret, taking


B L A
BLA
23
care that it do not burn; add it to the strain-
ed juice, and serve it warm in glasses.
BLANC. A mixture of butter, salt,
water, and a slice of lemon; also as follows:
—Cut a pound of beef suet, and the same of
fat bacou into dice, half a pound of butter,
the juice of a lemon, salt and pepper, one or
two onions, a bunch of parsley, a little thyme,
a bay leaf and spice.
BLANCMANGE. (1) Tooneounceof
picked isinglass, put a pint of water, boil it
till the isinglass is melted, with a bit of cin-
namon; put to it three-quarters of a pint of
cream, two ounces of sweet almonds, six
bitter ones blanched and beaten, a bit of
lemon-peel, sweeten it, stir it over the fire,
let it boil, strain and let it cool, squeeze in
the juice of a lemon, and put into moulds;
garnish to your fancy. Blancmange may be
colored green by adding spinach-juice; red,
by a bit of cochineal in brandy, let it stand
half an hour and strain it; yellow with
saffron.
BLANCMANGE. (2) Boil for a few
minutes a pint and a half of new milk, with
an ounce of picked ismglass (if in summer,
one ounce and a quarter), the rind of half a
lemon peeled very thin, 'a little cinuamon,
and a blade of mace, and two and a half
ounces of lump sugar: blanch and pound
eight or ten bitter, and half an ounce of
sweet almonds very fine, with a spoonful of
rose water, and mix them with the milk;
strain it through a,.jawn sieve or napkin into
a basin, with half a pint of good cream.
Let it stand half an hour; pour it into
another basin, leaving the sediment at the
bottom, and when nearly cold fill it into
moulds; when wanted, put your finger round
the mould; pull out the blancmange; set
it in the centre of a dish, and garnish
with slices of orange. N. B.—About half a
gill of noyeau may be substituted for the al-
monds.
BLANCMANGE. (3) Boil till dissolv-
ed, in a large tea-cupful of watcr, three-quar-
ters of an ounce of isinglass; when milk-
warm, add it to a quart of rich cream, with a
stick of cinuamon, the peel of a lemon, two or
three laurel leaves, or a few bitter almonds;
sweeten with pounded loaf sugar; stir it
over the fire, and let it boil for two or three
minutes; strain it through a bit of muslin
into a deep dish, and stir it till nearly cold,
then pour it into an earthen-ware mould or
shape; the following day, dip the mould into
warm water for a minute or so, clap it with
the hand to loosen the edge, place the glass
or china dish over the mould, and turn it
out quickly upon the dish. As much ^cow-
heel stock as will half fill the shape may bt
substituted for the ismglass.
BLANCMANGE. (4) Blanch and pound
with a little ratalia, or rose-water, two
ounces of sweet, and six bitter almonds; dis-
solve three-quarters of an ounce of isinglass;
add it, when milk-warm, to a quart of good
cream; half milk half cream may be used;
mix in the almonds the peel of a -small lem-
on, and a-bit of cinuamon; sweeten it with
pounded loaf sugar, let it stand for two or
three hours, put it into a saucepan, stir it
constantly, and let it boil for six or eight
minutes; strain it through a lawn sieve, and
stir it till nearly cold, then pour it into a
mould.
BLANCMANGE. (5) Blanch and pound
one ounce of sweet almonds with a glass of
sherry, and a table-spoonful of pounded loaf
sugar; add it to three-quarters of an ounce
of isinglass dissolved in half a pint of water,
and boil it till the flavor of the almonds bo
extracted, stirring it all the time; strain it
through a bit of thin muslin, and mix with
it a quart of good cream; stir it till quite
cold, and pour it into a shape.
BLANCMANGE, AMERICAN. Mix
half a pint of cold water with two ounces of
arrowroot, let it settle for fifteen minutes,
pour off the water, and add a table-spoon-
ful of laurel water, and a little sugar; sweet-
en a quart of new milk, bcil it with a little
cinuamon, and half the peel of a lemon; pick
out the cinuamon and lemon, and pour the
boiling milk upon the arrow-root, stirring it
all the time. Put it into a mould, and turn
it out the following day.
BLANCMANGE, DUTCH. Wash one
ounce and a half of isinglass, pour a pint
and a half of boiling water over it, let it
stand for an hour, and then boil it for twen-
ty minutes; strain, and when it is nearly
cold, add the beaten yolks of six egg^, a
pint of Lisbon wine, the peel of one and
jutce of two lemons, with a stick of cinua-
mon, and swee^n with pounded loaf sugar;
stir it over the ftre till it begin to simmer,
but do not allow it to boil; pick out the
peel and cinuamon, pour it into a basin,
sttr it till nearly cold, and put it into a
shape.
BLANCMANGE EGGS. Make a small
hole at the end of four or five large eggs,
and let out all the egg carefully; wash the
shell, drain, aud fill them with blancmange,
place them in a deep dish filled with rice or
bat ley to keep them steady, and when quite
cold, gently break and peel off the shell.
Cut the peal of a lemon mto delicately fine


BRA
B RE
24
shreds, lay them into a glass dish, and put
in the eggs; or serve them in a glass dish
with a pink cream round them.
BLACK COCK, MOOR GAME, AND
GROUSE, Are all to be dressed like par-
trtdges; the black cock will take as much
as a pheasant, and moor game and grouse
as the partridge. Send up with tltem cur-
rant-jelly and iKed bread crumbs.
BOILING. See directions at beginuing
of the book.
BOLAR CAKE. See Cake.
BRANDY PUDDING. See Pudding.
BRAISING PAN. A deep well-tinued
copper vessel, with two ears, the lid of which
must close hermetically, and have a ledge
round so that coals or hot ashes may be
placed on the top when necessary.
BRAISING. This is a method of
dressing meat, poultry, &ec. &.c. without its
undergoing any evaporation. It is done by
lining a bruising-pan with thin slices of bacon,
beef, or veal, upon which place whatever
you may intend to braise, and also add
carrots, onions, lemons, bay leaf, herbs,
pepper and salt.
BRAWN, A COLLAR OF. Wash,
scrape, and clean very thoroughly a large pig's
head, feet, and ears; lay them into salt and
water, with a little saltpetre, for three hours.
To make the collar larger, boil two ox heels,
with the head, feet, and ears, till all the
bones can be taken out easily, then put the
head round the mould, and the feet and small
pieces into the middle; put it together while
hot, and press it with a heavy weight till it
becomes cold. Boil for half an hour, in as
much of the liquor as will cover the brawn,
one handful of salt, one ounce of pepper,
and one or two bay leaves. When cold,
pour it over the brawn.
BRAWN, MOCK. Take the blade bone
out of the shoulder, and boil it gently two
hours or more, according to the age of the
boar. When it is cold, season it very high-
ly with pepper, Cayenue, salt, a very little
allspice, minced onion, and thyme. Let it
He a mght in this seasoning; the following
day, make a savoury forcemeat of pounded
veal, ham, beef suet, minced parsley, thyme,
and an onion, a little lemon-peel, salt, nut-
meg, pepper, and Cayenue; bind it with an
egg beaten, and stutf where the bone has
been taken out. Put it into a deep pan with
the brown side downwards, and lay under it
twigs or small sticks, to keep it from stick-
ing to the bottom; pour in a bottle of beer,
and put it into the oven. When nearly done,
take it out and clear off all the fat, add a
hot lle of Madeira and the juice of u large
lemon, return it to the oven, and bake it till
it become as tender as a jelly, so that a
straw will pierce it easily. If the hoar is
an old one, it will require to he baked six of
seven hours. This dish is eaten hot.
BRAWN, TO BAKE. Take raw tean
brawn, and the same quantity of fat bacon,
mince them small, then pound them in a
stone mortar, with a handful of sage, season-
ed wtth salt, pepper and ginger, add the
yolks of eggs, and some vinegar, then put
the brawn into a cold paste, lay on butter
and tmy leaves, make your pie round and
bake it. To be eaten cold.
BREAKFAST CAKE. See Cake.
BREAD. (1) Put a quartern of flour into a
large basin, with two tea-spoonfuls of salt;
make u hole in the middle; then put in a
basin four table-spoonfuls of good yeast; stir
in a pint of milk, lukewarm; put it in the
hole of the flour; stir it just to make it into
a thin batter; then strew a little flour over
the top; then put it un one side of the
fire, and cover it over; let it stand till the
next morning; then make it into dough; add
half a pint more of warm milk; knead it
for ten minutes, and then set it in a warm
place by the fire for one hour and a half:
then knead it again, and it is ready either
for loaves or brtcks: bake them from one
hour and a half to two hours according to
the size.
BREAD. (2) Mix into six pounds of sifted
flour one ounce of salt, nearly half a pint of
fresh sweet yeast as it comes from the brew-
ery, and a sufficient quantity of warmed milk
to make the whole into a stiff dough; work-
and knead it well upon a pasteboard, on
which a little flour has been strewed, for fif-
teen or twenty minutes, then put it into a
deep pan, cover it with a warmed towel, set
it before the ftre, and let it rise tor an hour
and a half, or perhaps two hours; cut off a
piece of this sponge or dough; knead it well
for eight or ten mmutes, together with flour
merely sufficient to keep it from adhering to
the board; put it into small tins, filling them
three-quarters full; dent the rolls all round
with a knife, and let them stand a few min-
utes before putting them into the oven.
The remainder of the dough must then be
worked up for loaves, and baked either in
or out of a shape.
BREAD, ALMOND. Take a pound o
the best almonds, slice them the round way


BRE
BRE
25
beat and sift a pound of double-refined sugar,
and strew it over the almonds as you cut
then, sth ring them frequently to prevent their
sticking together; when all the sugar is used,
put them into an earthen basin, with a few
carraway seeds, a little gum dragon (dis-
solved in rose-water and strained), three
grains of musk and ambergris dissolved in
fine sugar, and the whites of two eggs beaten
to a very light froth, and two spoonfuls of
fine flour; when well mixed lay them on
wafers the size of macaroons; open them
with a knife or bodkin, lest two or three
pieces stick together; the quicker you lay
them, the better they will look; put them
into a well-heated oven, taking care they do
not scorch; when half baked, take them out,
wash them with the white of an egg beaten
to a froth, grate a little fine sugar over them,
and bake them about half an hour longer.
BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING.
See Pudding.
BREAD, CHESTNUT. Roast a hun-
dred fine chestnuts, being careful not to
burn them; peel them well, and pound them
with butter and double cream; pass them
through a sieve; add two eggs, and then
strain them again. Weigh your paste, and
for every pound, allow half a pound of
powder, a little vanilla in powder, and two
ounces of flour; mix these together, and
form of the preparation as many chestnuts
as it will make; lay them on a sheet of
wafer paper, butter and dorez them seve-
ral times, and then bake them in a hot oven.
BREAD CHEESECAKES. Slice a
large French roll very thin, pour on it some
boiling cream; when cold, add six or eight
eggs, half a pound of butter melted, some
nutmeg, a spoonful of brandy, a little sugar,
and half a pound of currants. Put them in
pun* paste as other cheesecakes.
BREAD, TO SERVE WITH COF-
FEE. Whip up the whites of ten eggs to
a thick snow; add to them the yolks beaten
with eight ounces of powder-sugar, place it
over a charcoal fire, and whip it for half an
hour, then take it from the fire, and whip
again until cold. Mix in eight ounces of
sifted flour. Have ready buttered two
moulds lined with paper, pour the paste in-
to them, and bake them in a moderate oven;
when done, take them out of the moulds and
remove the paper; when cold, cut them in
slices about the size of a finger. Place them
on a plate of copper, over a charcoal fire,
and when one side is brown, turn them and
brown the other side. These if kept dry
will be good for a long time.
BREAD CRUMBS, FRIED. Rub bread
that has been baked two days, through an
tron sieve or cullender; put them into a stew-
pan with two ounces of butter; place it over
a moderate fire, and stir them with a wooden
spoon till of a fine gold color; spread them
on a sieve, and let them stand ten minutes
to drain, turning them often.
BREAD, FRENCH. Take half a bushel
(or six pounds) of flour, put it on the slab,
make a hole in the centre, in which put two
ounces of yeast; make your dough with warm
water, to alwut the consistence of brioche;
work it up well, adding two ounces of salt,
dissolved in a little warm water; cover,and
set it in a warm place to rise; on this part
of the operation depends the quality of the
bread. Having left the dough one or two
hours, (according to the season), knead tt
again, and leave it as before, for two hxr'rs.
In the meanwhile, heat the oven, divide the
dough into etght equal parts, of which form
as many loaves, into any shape you please;
put them into the oven as quickly as possible.
As soon as they are done, rub the crusts with
a little butter, which will give it a fine yellow
color.
BREAD, FRENCH, OR ROLLS.
Take half a bushel or six pounds of sifted
flour, knead it into dough, with two quarts
of milk, three-quarters of a pound of warm
butter, half a pound of yeast, and two ounces
of salt; when the whole is well worked up,
cover, and leave it to rise. In two hours
time, form it into rolls, and lay them on
tinued plates. Place them in a slow oveni
When they have been in an how, put them
into a very hot oven for twenty minute?.
Rasp them as soon as they are baked.
BREAD FRITTERS. Boil half a pint
of milk till reduced to half, with a ltttle
sugar, salt, half a spoonful of orange-flower
water, and a little lemon-peel shred fine;
have ready some pieces of crumb of bread,
cut about the size of half-crowns, but thicker;
put them into the milk to soak a little, then
drain, flour, and fry them. Glaze them with
sugar, and pass the salamander over them.
BREAD, LONDON. To make London
bread, put a bushel of good flour which has
been ground a month or six weeks, in one
end of the trough, and make a hole in the
middle of it. Take nine quarts of warm
water, and mix it with one quart of good
yeast; put it into the flour, and stir it well
with your hands; let it remain until it rises
as high as it will go, which will take about
an hour and a quarter. Watch it carefully
to its ultunate height, and do not suffer it to


BRE
BRE
2G
fall; then make up the dough with eight
quarts more of warm water and one pound
of salt; work it well with vour hands, and
then cover it over with a sack or other coarse
cloth. Put the fire into the oven; heat it
thoroughlyi and by the time it is hot, the
dough will be ready. Next make the dough
into loaves, not exceeding four or five pounds
each, sweep out the oven clean, and put in
the loaves. Shut the oven close, and they
will be baked in about two hours and a half;
then o|ien the oven, and draw the bread. In
summer the water need not be more than
blood warm, but in winter it must be a few
degrees higher in heat. During a hard
frost, however, the water should be as hot as
the hand could bear it, though not sufficiently
hot to scald the yeast, as that would spotl
the whole batch of bread. Other quantities
of bread are made in the same proportion.
BREAD, PLAIN SHORT. The same
proportions of flour and butter must be used
as in the receipt for short bread; this must
be mixed together, rolled out, but not made
guite so thick as in the rich kind; but in the
same form, pricked with a fork, and pinch-
ed all round. A little sugar may be added.
BREAD, RICE. Take a pound of rice,
and let it simmer in two quarts of water till
it is quite tender; when it is of a proper
warmth mix it thoroughly with four pounds
of flour, adding yeast and salt, the same as
for other bread; the proper quantity of yeast
to be used, is about four spoonfuls; knead it
well; then set it to rise before the fire. A
portion of the flour should be reserved to
make up the loaves. If the rice should re-
quire more water, it must be added, as some
rice swells more than other.
BREAD, SPICED, COMMON. (1)
Boil three pounds of honey in a gallon of
water for a quarter of an hour; then pour it
on the flour in the trough; mix them together
well, until the flour will imbibe no move li-
quid; when a little cooled, add three ounces
of potash, infused the night before in half a
pint of milk, knead .the whole well, putting
to it some pounded anise. Roll out the
l«tste, and with paste-cutters of various forms,
cut it into little figures, lay them on a well-
oiled tin, and bake them; when done, wash
them over with milk. With this paste
spiced nuts are made; when formed, lay them
on tins, and leave in a warm place for two
or three days before they are baked.
BREAD, SPICED, (2) FLEMISH.
The even ing before you wish to make
jour spiced bread, dissolve three ounces of
white potash in half a pint of milk, and set
it aside. The next morning put a consider-
able quantity of sifted flour into a trough
make a hole in the heap, into which pour six
pounds of clarifted honey ; whilst tailing, stir
it well with a strong spatula, until the honey
reduced to a firm paste, will imbibe no more
flour, then spread it all over the bottom of
the trough, and leave it for about ten or fif-
teen minutes; at the end of that time, if the
paste be sufftciently cool for you to bear your
hand on it, rub its surface with the infusion
of potash; then let a strong person knead it,
in the same manuer as the bakers knead
bread. Have ready a number of different-
sized moulds of pear tree wood, on which
are cut (pretty deep) octagons of various di-
mensions; then cut your paste into as many
pieces as you have moulds, in the following
proportions^—for the mould containing a
pound, take eighteen ounces of paste; for a
half pound, fourteen ounces; a quarter of
a pound seven ounces of paste, and so on;
knead each piece separately on the slab, rub
them with flour to prevent their adhering, and
then put them into the respective moulds;
press it down tight; in a minute or two turn
them over,-place them on a tin plate (pre-
viously rubbed with olive oil), and with a
soft brush take off what flour may remain
on the surface of the spiced bread, and bake
them in a moderate oven. Whilst they are
baking, dissolve some isinglass in a sufficient
quantity of beer, with which, by means of
a hair pencil, wash the outside of the spiced
bread as soon as it is done; and then, while
it is moist and warm, decorate it with
blanched almonds, candied lemon and orange
peel, cut into dice. You may, if you think
proper, cut these sort of sweet meats into
very small pieces, and knead them into your
paste at first. When they are nearly cold,
separate the pieces with a knife.
BREAD, SHORT. For two pounds of.
sifted flour allow one pound of butter, salt or
fresh; a quarter of a pound of candied orange
and lemon peel, of pounded loaf sugar,
blanched sweet almonds, and carraway com-
fits, a quarter of a pound each; cut the lem-
on, the orange peel, and almonds into small
thin bits, and mix them with a pound and a
half of the flour, a few of the caraway com-
fits, and the sugar; melt the butter, and when
cool, pour it clear from the sediment into the
flour, at the same time mixmg it quickly.
With the hands, form it into a large round
of nearly an inch thick, using the remainder
of the flour to make it up with; cut it in-
to four, and with the finger and thumb pinch
each bit neatly all round the edge; prtck them
with a fork, and strew the rest of the carra-
way comfits over the top. Put the pieces'
upon white paper dusted with flour, and
then upon tins. Bake them in a moderate
oven.


BR O
BRO
21
BREAD, TIPSY. Pare off the crust,
and cut into thin round slices of four or five
inches, the crumb of a twopenny or three-
penuy roll; spread over each bit raspberry
or strawlierry jam, and place the slices one
over the other pretty high in a glass dish,
and pour over them as much sherry, sweeten-
ed with sugar, as the bread will soak in;
stick round the sides, and over the top,
nlanched sweet almonds, cut like straws, and
pour a custard round it. It may be made
llie day before, or two or three hours before
dtnuer, and with the crumb of loaf bread.
BREAD SAUCE. See Sauces.
BRENTFORD ROLLS. Mix with
two pounds of flour a little salt, two ounces
of sifted sugar, four ounces of butter, and
two eggs beaten with two spoonfuls of yeast,
and about a pint of milk; knead the dough
well, and set it to rise before the fire. Make
twelve rolls, butter tin plates, and set them
helbre the fire agrin to rise. When of a
proper size, bake them for balf an hour.
BRIOCHE. Divide half a quartern of
flour into three parts, and knead into one of
them half an ounce of yeast and a little warm
water, wrap it in a cloth and set it by, in
summer time for a quarter of an hour, and
in winter for a whole hour. When it has
risen, put it to the remainder of the flour,
with a pound and a half of butter, ten eggs,
half a glass of water, and nearly an ounce
of salt; knead them together with your hand
thoroughly, and then wrap it in a clean nap-
kin and leave it nine or ten hours. Cut
the p;tste into the size you wish to make the
cakes, moisten, and roll them in the hand,
flatten the top, and gild them with the
yolk of an egg. Half an hour will lte
sufficient to bake the small ones; large
cakes will require an hour and a half.
BROILING. See directions at begin-
ning of the book.
BROCCOLI. Set a pan of clean cold
water on the table, and a saucepan on the
fire with plenty of water, and a handful of
salt in it. Broccoli is prepared by stripping
off all the side shoots, leaving the top; peel
oft' the skin of the stalk with a knife; cut it
close off at the bottom, and put it into the
pan of cold water. When the water in the
stewpan boils, and the broccoli is ready,
put tt in; let it boil briskly till the stalks
feel tender, from ten to twenty minutes; take
it up with a slice, that you may not break it;
let it drain, and serve up. If some of Uae
heads of broccoli are much bigger than the
others, put them on to boil first, so that they
may ge t all done together. 06s.—It makes
a nice supper-dish served upon a toast, like
asparagus. It is a very delicate vegetable,
and you must take it up the moment it is
done, and send it to table hot.
BROTH, BARLEY. Chop a leg of
beef in pieces, boil it in three gallons of
water, with a carrot and a crust of bread,
till reduced to half; then strain it off and
put it into the pot again with half a pound
of barley, four or five heads of celery cut
small, a bunch of sweet herbs, an omon, a
little chopped parsley, and a few marigolds.
Let it boil an hour. Take an old cock or
large fowl and put it into the pot, boil till
the broth is qutte good. Season with salt,
take out the onion and herbs, and serve it.
The fowl may be omitted.
BROTH, OF BEEF. Wash a leg or
shin of beef very clean, crack the bone in
two or three plages, add to it any trim-
mings you have of meat, game, or poultry
(heads, necks, gizzards or feet) and cover
them with cold water. Watch and stir it
up well from the bottom, and the moment it
begins to simmer, skim it carefully. Your
broth must be perfectly clear and limpid—
for on this depends the goodness of the
soups, sauces, and gravies, of which it is
the basis. Then add some cold water to
make the remaining scum rise, and skim
it again. When the scum has done rising,
and the surface of the broth is quite clear,
put in one carrot, a head of celery, two
turnips, and two onions. It should not
have any taste of sweet herbs, spice or gar-
lic; either of these flavors may be added
afterward, if desired. Cover it close, set it
by the side of the fire, and let it simmer
very gently, so as not to waste the I-ruth,
for four or five hours or more, according to
the weight of the meat. Strain it through
a sieve mto a clean and dry stone pan, and
set it in the coldest place you have.
IC^P^This is the foundation of all sorts
of soups and sauces, brown and w hite.
BROTH, CHICKEN. Take the re-
maining parts of a chicken from which
panada has been made, all but the rump;
skin, and put tltem into the water it was
first boiled in, with the addition of a little
mace, onion, and a few pepper-corns, and
simmer it. When of a good flavor, put to
it a quarter of an ounce of sweet almonds
beaten with a spoonful of water; boil it
a little while, and when cold, take off the
fat.
BROTH, CHICKEN PECTORAL.
Prepare a chicken in the usual way, and
it into a saucepan with two pints and a
of water, two ounces of pearl barky,
put
half


BR O
BRO
28
the same of rice, and two ounces of the best
boney; boil all together, skunmmg well for
three hours, until it be reduced to two-thirds.
BROTH, JELLY. Take a joint of mut-
ton, a capon, a fillet of veal, and three quarts
of water; put these into an earthen pan, and
boil them over a gentle fire till reduced to
nalf; then squeeze all together, and strain
the liquor through a napkin.
BROTH, MUTTON. Take two pounds
of scrag of mutton; to take the blood out,
put it into a stewpan, and cover it with
cold water; when the water becomes milk-
warm, pour it off; then put it in four or five
pints of water, with a tea-spoonful of salt, a
table-spoonful of best grits, and an onion; set
it on a slow fire, and when you have taken
all the scum off, put in two or three turnips;
let it simmer very slowly for two hours, and
strain it tluough a clean sieve.
BROTH, MUTTON, FOR THE SICK.
Have a pound and a half of a neck or loin
of mutton; take off the skin and the fat, and
put it into a saucepan; cover it with cold
water, (it will take about a quart to a pound
of meat), let it simmer very gently, and
skim it well; cover it up, and set it over a
moderate fire, where it may stand gemi v
stewing for about an hour; then strain it off.
It should be allowed to become cold, when
all the greasy particles will float on the sur-
face, and becoming hard, can be easily
taken off, and the settlings will remain at
the bottom. N. B.—We direct the meat to
be done no more than just sufficiently to be
eaten; so a sick man may have plenty of
good broth for nothing; as by thts manuer
of producing it, the meat furnishes also a
good family meal. This is an inoffensive
nourishment for sick persons, and the only
mutton broth that should be given to conva-
lescents, whose constitutions require replen-
ishing with restorative aliment of easy di-
gestion. The common way of making it
with roots, onions, sweet herbs, &c. &c. is
too strong for weak stomachs. Plain broth
will agre'e with a delicate stomach, when
the least addition of other ingredients would
immediately oflend it.
BROTH, MEAGRE, or Soup wtth
Herbs. Set on a kettle of water, put in
two or three crusts of bread, and all sorts of
good herbs; season with salt; put in butter,
and a bunch of sweet herbs; boil it for an
hour and a half: then strain it through a
sieve, or napkin. This will serve to make
lettuce soup, asparagus soup, soup de sante,
tec. with herbs.
BROTH, MULLAGATAWNY, OR
CURRY. Make about two quarts of strong
veal broth, seasoned with two onions, a
hunch of parsley, salt and pepper; strain it,
and have ready a chicken, cut in joints and
skinned; put tt into the broth, with a table-
spoonful of curry-powder; boil the chicken
till quite tender, and a little before serving,
add the juice of a lemon, and stir in a tea-
cupful of cream. Serve boiled rice to eat
with this broth.
BROTH, RICE VEAL. Wash clean
six pounds of a knuckle of veal, and cut it
in two, put it in a saucepan with four quarts
of boiling water, half a pound of rice well
washed, a little mace, white pepper, and
salt, and a handful of chopped parsley; let
it boil for two hours. Serve part of the
meat in the tureen with the broth. The
thick part of the knuckle may be sent up
as a separate dish, with parsley and butter
poured over it.
BROTH, WHITE. Boil a fowl, and
when it is enough, take it up, and put it into
a dish; then botl your cream with a blade of
mace, and thicken it with eggs; then put in
the marrow of one beef bone, and take some
of tite broth, and m i ngle them together; put to
it a spoonful of white wine, and let it thick-
en on the fire; then put the fowl hot out of
the broth, set it on a chafing-dish of coals,
and serve it.
BROWN ROUX, OR THICKENING.
Put into a nicely tinued saucepan about a
pound of fresh butter, melt it slowly, and
dredge in flour till it becomes like a paste,
carefully stirring it all the time, put it for
a few minutes upon a quick fire, and then
return it to where there is less heat, and
stir it till it assumes a light brown color,
when it may be put into a jar. These
thickenings keep for sometime.
BROWNING, Is a convenient article
to color those soups or sauces of which it is
supposed their deep brown complexion de-
notes the strength and savouriness of the
composition. Burned sugar is also a fa-
vorite ingredient with the brewers, who use
it under the name of " essentia bina" to col-
or their beer: it is also employed by the bran-
dy makers, in considerable quantity, to color
brandy; to which, besides enriching its com-
plexion, it gives that sweetish taste, and ful-
ness in the mouth, which custom has taught
brandy drinkers to admire, and prefer to
the finest Cognac in its genuine state. When
employed for culinary purposes, this is some-
times made with strong gravy, or walnut
catchup. Those who like a gout of acid
may add a little walnut pickieA Put half
a pound of pounded lump sugar, and a tatje-


BUNS
BUNS
29
spoonful of water, into a clean iron sauce-!
pan, set it over a slow fire, and keep stir- I
ring it with a wooden spoon till it becomes j
a bright brown color, and begins to smoke;
then add to it an ounce of salt, and dilute it
by degrees with water, till it is tlie thick-
ness of soy; let it boil, take off the scum,
and strain the liquor into bottles, which
must be well stopped: if you have not any
of this by you, and you wish to darken the
color of your sauces, pound a tea-spoonful
of lump sugar, and put it into an iron spoon,
with as much water as will dissolve it;
hold it over a quick fire till it becomes of a
very dark brown color; mix it with the
soup, &c. while it is hot.
BRUNSWICK TART. See Tart.
BRUSSELS SPROUTS TO BOIL.
Trim and wash them perfectly clean, and
let them lie an hour in cold water. Put
them on in boiling water, with a little salt,
and boil them till tender. Drain off tbe
water, and serve them hot.
BUBBLE AND SQUEAK. Chop small
some boiled white cabbage; season it with
pepper and salt, and fry it with a little butter;
pepper and broil some slices of cold boiled
salted beef; put the fried cabbage into a dish,
and lay round it the slices of broiled lieef,
and serve it very hot. The beef does best
when underdone.
BUNS, BATH. Rub together, with
the hand, one pound of fine flour and a half
a pound of butter; beat six eggs, and add
them to the flour with a table spoonful of good
yeast. Mix them all together with half a lea-
cup full of milk; set it in a warm place for
an hour; mix in six ounces of sifted sugar,
and a few caraway seeds. Mould them in-
to buns with a table spoon on a baking plate;
throw six or eight caraway comfits on each,
and bake them in a hot oven about ten min-
utes. These quantities should make eight-
een buns.
BUNS, COMMON. Rub four ounces of
butter into two pounds of flour, four ounces
of sugar, a few Jamaica peppers, and a few
carraway seeds. Put a spoonful or two of
cream into a cup of yeast, and as much good
milk as will make the above into a light
ate; set it by the fire to rise. They will
e qutckly on tins; you may add nutmeg.
BUNS, CROSS. To the alieve mix-
ture put one ounce and a half of ground all-
spice, cinuamon and mace, mixed, and when
half proved, press the form of a cross with .
a til mould in the centre, and finish as |
above
S*
BUNS, PLUM. To two pounds of the
plain bun paste, put half a pound of currants,
a quarter of a pound of candied orange-
peel, cut into small pieces, half a nutmeg
grated, half an ounce of mixed spice, Midt
as allspice, cinuamon, &c. Mould them in-
to buns, jag them round the edges with a
knife, and-proceed as above.
BUNS, PLAIN. To four pounds of sift-
j ed flour put one pound of good moist su^ar;
| make a cavity in the centre, and stir m a
. gill of good yeast, a pint of lukewarm milk,
I with enough of the flour to make it the thick-
| ness of cream; cover it over, and let it lie
two hours; then melt to an oil (but not hot)
one pound of butter, stir it into the other in-
gredients, with enough warm milk to make
it a soft paste; throw a littte flour over, and
let them lie an hour; have ready a baking-
platter rubbed over with butter; mould with
the hand the dough into buns, about the
size of a large egg; lay them in rows full
three inches apart; set them in a warm place
for half an hour, or till they have risen to
double their size; bake them in a hot oven
of a good color, and wash them over with
a brush dipped into milk when drawn from
the oven.
BUNS, RICHER. Put four pounds of
fine flour into a wooden bowl; set a sponge
of it with a gill of yeast and a pint of
warm milk; then mix with it one pound of
sifted sugar, one pound of oiled fresh butter,
coriander seeds, ctnuamon, and mace, a small
quantity of each, pounded line. Roll the
paste into buns, set them on a baking-plate
rubbed with bttter, put them in a moderate
oven to prove; then wash them with a paste-
brush dipped in warm milk, and bake of a
good color.
BUNS, SCOTS CHRISTMAS. Take
four pounds of raisins stoned, two and a half
of currants well cleaned and dried, half a
pound of almonds blanched, of candied orange
and lemon-peel a quarter of a pound each,
cut small; of pounded cloves, pepper, and
ginger, half an ounce each, four pounds of
flour, and twenty-two ounces of butter.
Then rub the butter with the tlour, till well
mixed together; add a little warm water,
and a quarter of a pint of fresh good yeast,
and work it into a light smooth paste; cut
offnearly one-third of the paste, to form the
sheet or case, and lay it aside; with the rest
work up the fruit, sweetmeats, and spices;
make it into a round form like a thick cheese.
Roll out the sheet of paste, lay the bun in the
centre, and gather it all round, closing it at
the bottom, by wetting the ed;tetf of the paste,
and cutting it so as to lie qutte flat. Turn
it up, and run a wire or small skewer through


BUT
BUT
30
from the top to the bottom every here and
there, and prtck the top with a fork. Dou-
ble and flour a sheet of gray paper, und lay
the bun upon it; bind a piece round the
sides, also doubled and floured, to keep the
bun in a proper shape. Bake it in a mod-
erate oven.
BUNS, SEED. Take two pounds of
plain bun dough, and mix in one ounce of
caraway seeds, butter the insides of tart-
pans, mould the dough into buns, and put
me into each pan; set them to rise in a
warm place, and when sufficiently proved,
ice them with the white of an egg beat to a
froth, lay some pounded sugar over that, and
dissolve it with water splashed from the
icing-brush. Bake ten minutes.
BURDWAN STEW. Cut into joints a
cold fowl or duck, put it into a stewpan,
with half a pint of gravy, a large wine-glass
of ale, half a one of white w ine, the juice
of half a lemon, a tea-spoonful of soy and
Cayenue; of mushroom catsup, lemon pickle,
cucumber vinegar, corach escavecke, a des-
sert-spoonful each. Heat all thoroughly be-
fore serving.
BUTTER BURNT. Put two ounces of
fresh butter into a small frying-pan; when it
becomes a dark brown color, add to it a
table-spoonful and a half of good vinegar,
and a little pepper and salt. Obs.—This is
used as sauce for boiled fish or poached
eggs.
BURNET VINEGAR. See Vinegar.
BUTTER BISCUITS. See Biscuits.
BUTTER CAKES. See Cakes.
BUTTER, CLARIFIED. Put the butter
in a nice, clean stewpan, over a very clear,
slow fire; watch it, and when it is melted,
carefully skim off the buttermilk, &c. which
will swun on the top; let it stand a minute
or two for the impurities to sink to the bot-
tom; then pour the clear butter through a
sieve into a clean basin, leaving the sediment
at the bottom of the stewpan. Obs.—But-
ter thus purifted will be as sweet as marrow,
a very useful covering for otted meats, &c.
and for frying fish equal to the finest Florence
oil; for which purpose it is commonly used
by Catholics, and those whose religious ten-
ets will not allow them to eat viands fried in
animal oil.
BUTTER, FRENCH MELTED. Mix,
in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of
fresh butter, a table-spoonful of flour, a little
•alt half a gill of water, half a spoonful of
white vinegar, and a little grated nutmeg.
Put it on the fire, stir it, and let it thicken,
but do not allow it to boil, lest it should taste
of the flour.
BUTTER, MELTED. (1) Dust a little
flour over a quarter of a pound of butter, put
it into a saucepan, with about a wine-glass
of water; stir it one way constantly till it be
melted, and let it just boil: a round wooden
stick, is tin- best thing to stir butter with in
melting. If the butter is to be melted with
cream, use the same proportion as of water,
but no flour; stir it constantly, and heat it
thoroughly, but do not let it boil. To oil
butter, cut about a quarter of a pound into
slices, put it into a small jar, and place it in
a pan of boiling water. When oiled, pour
it off clear from the sediment.
BUTTER, MELTED, (2) Is so simple
and easy to prepare, that it is a matter of'
general surprise, that what is done so often,
is so seldom done right. It is spoiled nine
times out of ten, more from idleness than from
ignorance, and rather because the cook won't
than because she can't do it; which can on-
ly be the case when housekeepers will not
allow butter to do it with. Good melted
butter canuot be made with mere flour and
water; there must be a full and proper pro-
portion of butter. As it must be always on
the table, and is the foundation of almost all
our sauces, we have,
Melted butter and oysters,
.. . . parsley,
anchovies,
eggs,
shrimps,
lobsters,
capers, &c. &c. &c.
I have tried every way of making it; and I
trust, that I have written a receipt, (3)
which, if the cook will carefully observe,
she will constantly succeed in giving satis-
faction. In the quantities of the various
sauces I have ordered, I have had in view
the providing for a family of half a dozen
moderate people. Never pour sauce over meat
or even put it into the dish; however well
made, some of the company may have an
antipathy to it; tastes are as different as
faces: moreover, if it is sent up separate in a
boat, it will keep hot longer, and what is left
may be put by for another time, or used for
another purpose.
BUTTER, MELTED. (3) Keep a pint
stewpan; for this purpose only. Cut' two
ounces of butter into little bits, that it may
melt more easily, and mix more readily; put
it into the stewpan with a large tea-spoon-
ful (t. e. about three drachms) of flour,
(some prefer arrow-root, or potato starch)


CAB
CAKE
31
ind two table-spoonfuls of milk. When
thoroughly mixed, add six table-spoonfuls
of water; hold it over the fire, and shake it
round every minute (all the while the same
way), till tt just begins to simmer; then let
it stand quietly and boil up. It should be of
the thickness of good cream. N. B.—Two
table-spoonfuls 01 mushroom catchup, instead
of the milk, will make as good mushroom
sauce -as need be, and is a superlative accom-
paniment to either fish, flesh, or fowl.
Ob$.—This is the best way of preparing
melted butter; milk mixes with the butter
much more easily and more intimately than
water alone can be made to do. This is
of proper thickness to be mixed at table
with flavouring essences, anchovy, mush-
room, or cavice, &c. If made merely to
pour over vegetables, add a little more milk
to it. N. B.—If the butter oils, put a
spoonful of cold water to it, and stir it with
a spoon; if it is very much oiled, it must
be poured backwards and forwards from
the stewpan to the sauceboat till it is right
again. Mem.—Melted butter made to be
mixed with flavouring essences, catchups,
&c. should be of the thickness of light bat-
ter, that it may adhere to the fish, &c.
BUTTER, OILED. Put two ounces of
fresh butter into a saucepan; set it at a dis-
tance from the fire, so that it may malt grad-
ually, till it comes to an oil; and pour it off
quietly from the dregs. Obs.—This will
supply the place of olive oil; and bvsome is
preferred to it either for salads or frying.
BUTTER SAUCE. See Sauce.
C.
CABBAGE AND CHEESE SOUP.
See Soup.
CABBAGE, TO STEW. Wash a cab-
bage well, slice it as for pickling, and put it
into a stewpan, with half a tea-cupful of
Port wine, and a bit &f butter kneaded in
flour, a little salt and pepper; stir it till the
butter is melted; cover the pan, and let it stew
a little, but not to become too soft; as it eats
better rather crisp; add a table-spoonful of
vinegar, give it one boil, and serve it hot.
The wine may be omitted.
CABBAGE, TO PICKLE. Choose two
middling-sized, well-colored, and firm red
cabbages, shred them verv finely, first pulling
off the outside leaves; mtx with them nearly
half a pound of salt, tie it up in a thin cloth,
and let it hang for twelve hours; then put it
into small jars, and pour over it cold vinegar
that has been boiled with a few barberries m
it; tie the jar over closely with bladder; or
boil, in a quart of vinegar, three bits of gin-
ger, half an ounce of pepper, and a quarter of
an ounce of cloves. When cold, pour it over
the red cabbage.
CAKES. Preparatory remarks.
The currants and raisins should be prepared
as directed under the article headed, Pud-
dings and Pies, and the flour dried before
the fire on a large sheet of white paper, then
sifted and weighed. Almonds should be
blanched by pouring hot water over them,
and, alter standing some minutes, taking off
the skin, then throwing them into rose or
cold water. When not pounded, they should
be cut lengthwise into thin bits. Sugar
should be roughly pounded, rolled with a
bottle upon white paper, and then sifted. All
spices, after being well dried at the fire, should
be finely pounded and sifted. Lemon and
orange-|ieel must be pared very thin, and
pounded with a little sugar. The butter,
after being weighed, should be laid into cold
water, or washed in rose water, and if salt,
be well washed in several waters. The
yolki and whites of eggs should be separately
and long beaten, then strained; two whisks
should Iie kept exclusively for that pur-
pose, as the whites especially require to be
managed with the greatest care. A horn
spoon should be used for mixing those cakes
which are not directed to be beaten with the
hand. To make cakes light, salvolatile, or
smelling salts, may be added immediately
before putting them into the oven, allowing,
to a sponge cake, made of one pound of flour,
one tea-spoonful; and two or three to a large
plum cake. Cheese cakes, queen cakes,
sponge biscuits, and small sponge cakes, re-
quire a quick oven till they have risen; after-
wards the heat should Iie more moderate.
Plum, seed cakes, and all large kinds, must be
well soaked, and therefore do not require a
brisk oven. To preserve their color, a sheet of
white paper is put over them, and after they
have risen and become firm, they are turned
round. To ascertain if a large cake be
sufficiently done, a broad bladed knife is
plunged into the centre of it, and if dry and
clean when drawn out, the cake is baked;
but if anything adheres to the blade, it must
instantly be returned to the oven, and tne
door closed. When the oven is too hot, it
is better to lessen the fire than to open tlw
door.
CAKE. Take two pounds and a half of
dried and sifted flour, the same of well clean-
ed and dried currants, two pounds of fresh
butter, two of finely-pounded and sifted loaf
sugar, a nutmeg grated, a tea-spoonful of
pounded cinnamon, one ounce of citron and


CAKE
CAKE
32
candied orange-peel, cut small, the yolks of
sixteen, and the whites of ten eggs, beaten
separately; then with the hand beat the
butter to a cream, and add the sugar, then
tite eggs by degrees, and the flour in the
K,me wayi and then the currants, sweetmeats,
and spice, one glass of orange-flower water,
and one of brandy- Butter a tin pan, line it
with white paper buttered, put in the cake,
and bake it in a moderate oven four hours.
CAKE, ALMOND. Blanch half a pound
of sweet, and three ounces of bitter almonds;
pound them to a paste in a mortar with
orange-flower water; add half a pound of
sifted loaf sugar, and a little brandy; whisk
separately, for half an hour, the whites and
yolks of twenty eggs, add the volks to the
almonds and sugar, and then stir m the whites,
and beat them all well together. Butter a
tin pan, sift bread raspings over it, put the
cake into it, over the top of which strew sifted
loaf sugar. Bake it in a quick oven for
half or three-quarters of an hour.
CAKES, ALMOND SMALL. One
pound of butter beaten to a cream, half a
pound of finely-pounded and sifted loaf sugar,
half a pound of dried and sifted flour, and
the same quantity of blanched sweet almonds
cut into thin small bits, one well-beaten egg,
and a little rose water, must be mixed well
together, and with a spoon dropped upon
wafer paper or tins, and then baked.
CAKE, ALMOND. (1) Take eight
ounces of Jordan and one ounce of bitter al-
monds, blanch and pound them very fine;
then beat in with the almonds the yolks of
eight eggs, and whisk up the whites to a
solid froth. Then take eight table-spoonfuls
of sifted sugar, five spoonfuls of fine flour, a
small quantity of grated lemon-peel and
pounded cinuamon, and mix all the ingre-
dients. Rub the inside of a mould with
fresh butter, fill it with the mixture and bake
it of a light color.
CAKE, ALMOND. (2) Put a gill of
flour upon a pie-board, and make a hole
in the middle to receive a piece of butter the
size of an egg, a little salt, a quarter of a
pound of fine sugar, and six ounces of sweet
almonds pounded very fine: knead the whole,
and form it into a cake; bake, and glaze it
with sugar and a hot salamander.
CAKE, ALMOND. (3) Weigh three
eggs in t heir shells, take the same weight of
flour, of the finest fresh butter, and of grated
loaf sugar. Pound with these ingredients
three ounces of sweet almonds blanched; add
a little grated lemon-peel, or orange-flower
water, and the whites and yolks of three
eggs. Continue pounding till the whole
forms a smooth paste. Butter the bottom
of a baking-pan, and put in the cake with
fire above and 'below. This cake may be
served either hot or cold, with grated sugar
over it.
CAKES, ANISEED. Tut in an earthen
pan eight ounces of sugar pounded, and
the yolks often eggs; stir them togetner with
a wooden spoon for half an hour. In the
meantime have the whites of your eggs
whipped to a thick snow, and then pour in
the sugar and yolks. When thoroughly
mixed, add an ounce of good aniseed, pre-
viously washed and dried, and ten ounces of
flour; stir the whole gently, and then with a
spoon lay it on white paper in cakes alwut
the size of a crown-piece; sprinkle them with
fine sugar, and bake. Remove them from
the paper, while hot, with a knife.
CAKE, APPLE. Pare and core a d
en apples, and make them into marmalade,
with the zeste of a lemon and a little cinua-
mon, and pass them tbrough a bolting; put
them into a stewpan, with a spoonful of
potato flour, half a pound of sugar, and two
ounces of butter; dty it over the fire, and
when cold add to it six eggs, stir them well
in, and having buttered a mould, pour your
preparation into it, and hake it in a slow
oven; when done, turn it in a dish and
serve it.
CAKE, ABERDEEN CRULLA. Beat
to a cream a quarter of a pound of fresh butter,
and mix with it the same quantity of pound-
ed and sifted loaf sugar, and four well-beaten
eggs; add flour till thick enough to roll out;
cut the paste into oblong pieces about four
or five inches in length ; with a paste cutter,-
divide the centre into three or four strips;
wet the ctlges, and plait one bar over the
other, so as to meet in the centre; throw
them into boiling lard, or clarified suet;
when fried of a light brown, drain them
before the fire, and serve them in a napkin,
with or without grated loaf sugar strewed
over them.
CAKE, BANBURY. Set a spongp with
two table-spoonfuls of thick yeast, a gill of
warm milk, and a pound of flour; when it
has worked a little, mix with it half a pound
•f currants, washed and picked, half a
pound of candied orange and lemon peel cut
small, one ounce of spice, such as ground
cinuamon, allspice, ginger, and grated nut-
meg: mix the whole together with half a
pound of honey ; roll out puff paste a quartet
I of an inch thick, cut it into rounds with a
cutter, about four inches over, lay on each
j with a spoon a small quantity of the mixture;


CAKE
CAKE
33
close tt round with the fingers in the form
of an oval; place the join underneath; press
it flat with the hand; sift sugar over it, and
bake them on a plate a quarter of an hour.
CAKES, BATH BREAKFAST. Rub
into two pounds of flour half a pound of but-
ter, and mix with it one pint of milk a little
warmed, a quarter of a pint of fresh yeast,
four well-beaten eggs, and a tea-spoonful of
salt; cover it, and let it stand befiire the fire
to rise for three-quarters of an hour; make
it into thick cakes about the size of the
inside of a dinner plate; bake them in a
quick oven, then cut them into three, that
the middle slice, as also the top and bottom
may be well buttered. Serve them wry hot.
. CAKE, BAIRN BRACK. To three
pounds of dried flour allow one pound o*'
fresh butter, one poflnd of good brown sugar,
two ounces of caraway seeds, eight well-
beaten eggs, three table-spoonfuls of fresh
yeast, and some grated nutmeg; dissolve the
butter in a pint of milk, so as to make the
whole into a dough, not very stiff; work it
well; cover it with a cloth, and set it before
the fire to rise; when well risen, bake it in
a buttered tin. When it becomes dry, it
may be toasted and eaten with butter.
CAKES, BONNET. Boil in half a
pint of water, for ten minutes, a bit of cin-
namon, and of lemon-peel; strain, and mix it
with three table-spoonfuls of flour, and stir
it over the fire for two or three minutes; add
a bit of butter the size of a walnut; when
cold, mix in the beaten yolks of two eggs, a
little salt and pepper; beat it well, drop a
dessert-spoonful of the mixture into boiling
lard, then drain them upon the back of a
sieve, and when served, throw over pounded
loaf sugar. Instead of the salt and pepper, a
little preserve may be drooped upon each,
before the sugar is thrown over.
CAKE, BABA. Take the fourth pari of
two pounds of flour, lay it on your paste-
board or slab, and having made a hole in
the middle of it, put in half an ounce of
yeast, work it up with one hand, whilst with
the other you pour in warm water; make it
into a rather soft paste, put into a wooden
bowl, first pricking it in a few places, cover
it with a clodi and let it stand. When it
has risen well, take the remainder oftha
four, and spread it on the first made paste;
mix them well together, adding to them
half an ounce of salt, six eggs, a pound of
fresh butter, half a pound of stoned raisins,
two ounces of currants, half a glass of Mal-
aga wine, and a little satTron in powder.
Work them up together thoroughly, roll it
out two or three times, and then let it stand
for six hours; then having buttered a mould,
pour in your preparation and bake it.
CAKE, BOLAR. One pound of flour
dried in a slow oven, two spoonfuls of yeast,
some almond milk, and water to 'mix for a
sponge; when raised, beat «p three-quarters
of a pound of clarified butter, three eg£ts, and
three-quarters of a pound of sugar, well-beat-
en till the spoon comes clean away; then
add cinuamon powder, candied orange and
lemon. Bake in earthen basins, well but-
tered; keep it before the fire till put in the
oven.
CAKE, BOLAR. When the sponge is
beat, as for the last, instead of mixing the
sugar, it is rolled in the sugar and cinuamon
CAKE, DUTCH BOLAR. Done, as
above, without sugar; then prick holes with
a sharp pointed knife, and while it is hot
pour in three-quarters of a pound of clarified
sugar, flavored with cinuamon or orange-
flower. Almonds and sweetmeats are pre-
viously put in the cake. Ornament your
cake with harlequin sugar-plums. This was
a favorite cake of Queen Charlotte.
CAKE, BREAD. Take the quantity
of a quartern loaf from the dough when mak-
ing white bread, and knead well into it two
ounces of butter, two of Lisbon sugar, and
eight of currants. Warm the butter in a
tea-cupful of good milk. By the addition
of an ounce of batter, or sugar, or an egg or
two, you may mate the cake better. A
tea-cupful of raw cream improves it much.
It is best to bake it in a pan, rather than as
a loaf, the outside being less hard.
CAKE, BRIDE. Take four pounds of
fine flour well dried, four pounds of fresh
butter, two pounds of loaf sugar, pounded
and sifted fine, a quarter of an ounce of
mace, and the same quantity of nutmegs;
to every pound of flour put eight eggs; wash
and pick four pounds of currants, and dry
them before the fire; blanch a pound of
sweet almonds, and cut them lengthways,
very thin, a pound of citron, a pound of
candied orange, a pound of candied lemon,
and half a pint of brandy; first work the
butter with your hand to a cream, then
beat in your sugar a quarter of an hour;
beat the whites of your eggs to a very strong
froth; mix them with your sugar and but-
ter; beat the yolks half an hour, at least,
and mix them with your cake; then put in
your flour, mace, and nutmeg; keep beating
it till the oven is ready ; put in your brandy,
and beat the currants and almonds lightly
in; tie three sheets of paper round the bot-
tom of your hoops to keep it from runuing


CAKE
CAKE
34
out; rub it well with butter, put in your I
cake, and the sweetmeats in three lays, wtth
cake betwecn every lay; after it is risen
anil colored, covor tt wtth paper liefore your
oven is stopped up; it will take three huurs
bakmg.
CAKE, BRIE. Take some rich eheese,
knead it with a pint and half of flour, three
quarters of a pound of butter, and a little
salt; motsten it with five or six eggx beaten
up; when it is well kneaded, let it stand
for an hour; then form your cake and bake
as usual.
CAKES, BENTON-TEA. Rub into
a pound of flour, six ounces of butter, and
three spnonfub of yeast, and make into a
paste with new milk; make into biscuits,
and prick them with a clean fork.
CAKES, BUTTER. Beat a dish of
butter with your hands to a cream, add two
pounds of sifted sugar, three pounds of dried
flour, and twenty-four eggs, leave out half
the whttes, and then beat all together for an
hour; when you are going to put it in the
oven add a quarter of an ounce of mace and
a nutmeg, a little sack and brandy, seeds
and currants, if you think proper.
CAKE, WITHOUT BUTTER. Take
the weight of three eggs in sugar, and the
weight of two in flon*; when the liveeggsare
well beaten, gradually add the sugar, and
then the flour, with a little grated lemon-
peel, or a few caraway^eeds. Bake it in
a tin mould, in rather a quick oven.
CAKES, CHESHIRE. Beat for half
an hour the yolks of eight, and the whites
of five eggs; add half a pound of pounded
and sifted loaf sugar, a quarter of a pound
of dried and sifted flour, and the grated
	ee\ of a small lemon; beat all well togeth-
er, and bake it in a floured tin.
CAKES, CARAWAY. (1) Three
quarto's of a pound of flour, half a pound of
butter well rubbed into it, a quarter of a
pound of sifted loaf sugar, and some caraway
seeds; make these into a stiffpaste with a
little cold water, roll it out two or three
times, cut it into round cakes, prick them,
and bake them upon floured tins. For a
change, currants may be substituted for the
caraway seeds.
CAKES, CARAWAY. (2) Mix half
a pound of sifted loaf sugar with a pound
of flour and a quarter of a pound of butter,
add some caraway seeds; make it into a
■tiff paste, with three well-beaten eggs, and
a little rose water; roll it out thin, cut it
into round cakes, prick them with a fork,
and bake them upon floured tins in a quick
oven.
CAKES, CURD CHEESE. Boil, in
two quarts of cream, the well-beaten yolks
of four, and the whites of five eggs; drain
off the whey gently, and mix with the curd
grated nutmeg, pounded cinuamon, three
table-spoonfuls of best rose water, as much
whtte wine, four ounces of pounded loaf su-
gar, the same quantity of butter beaten to a
cream, and Tjf pounded biscuit. Mix all
these ingredients well together, and stir in
a quarter of a pound of currants. Bake it
in a large tin, or in patty-pans lined with
paste; or it may be baked in a dish previ-
ously buttered.
CAKES, CURRANT. (1) Take
two pounds of fine flour, one pound and a
half of butter, the yolks of five or six eggs,
one pound and a half of sugar, six spoonfuls
of white wine, three spoonfuls of caraway
seeds, two nutmegs, and one pound of cur-
rants; beat up the butter with your hand
till it is very thin; dry the flour well; put in
the caraway seeds, and nutmegs, finely grat-
ed; afterwards put them all into your bat-
ter, with the eggs, white wine, and rose
water; mingle them well together; putsin
the currants; let your oven be pretty hot,
and as soon as they are colored they will be
sufficiently done.
CAKES, CURRANT. (2) Take half a
pound of cleaned and dried currants, the
same quantity of dried and sifted flour, a
quarter of a pound of pounded sugar, a
quarter of a pound of fresh butter, four
yolks, and three whites of eggs, both well
beaten, and a little grated nutmeg or pound-
ed cinuamon; then beat the butter to a
cream; add the sugar, and then the eggs
and the flour; beat these well for twenty
minutes, mix in the currants and the grated
nutmeg. Drop the cakes in a round form
upon buttered paper, or bake them in small
tins in a quick oven.
CAKES, CURRANT. (3) Take six
ounces of currants, the same quantity of
pounded loaf sugar, a little grated nutmeg,
half a pound of butter, and three-quarters
of a pound of dried and sifted flour; rub the
Butter with the flour till they be well mixed,
then add the other ingredients, and bind
them with three beaten yelks of eggs, and
two or three spoonfuls of rose or orange-
flower water; roll it out, and cut it into
round cakes with the top of a wine glass or
a tin.
CAKE, COMMON. (1) Take two


CAKE
CAKE
36
two or three table-spoon''tls of orange-flower
water; then stir in the whites, and lightly
mtx in half a pound of drted and sifted Hour.
Bake it m a moderate oven.
CAKE, FASHION. Mix a handful of
flour with a pint of good cream, half u pound
of I«ef suet, melted and sifted, a quarter of
a pound of powder-sugar, half a pound of
raisins, stoned and chopped, dried flowers of
orange, a glass of brandy, a little coriander,
and salt; bake it as all other cakes, about an
hour, and glaze or garnish it.
CAKE,FOURRES. Make a puff paste,
form it into two equal parts the size of the
dish in which you mean to place your cake,
and the thickness of two crowns each; then
take one of the cakes and put upon it some
sweetmeats, leaving about an inch, as a
border, all round; wet it with water and
place the other cake upon it, draw up the
edges carefully with your fingers; gild them
witJt the yolk of egg, and bake them in an
oven.
CAKE, FRENCH. Twelve eggs, the
yolks and whites beaten well and separately,
one pound of pounded and* sifted loaf sugar,
the grated peel of a large lemon, half a pound
of stfted and dried flour, the same weight of
sifted and dried ground rice, four ounces of
sweet, and one of bitter almonds, pounded in
a mortar together, with a table-spoonful of
orange-flower water. Mix all these ingre-
dients gradually, and beat them well. Pa-
per the pan, and bake the cake for one hour.
CAKE, FAMILY. Take rice and
flour, of each six ounces, the yolks and
whites of nine eggs, half a pound of lump
sugar, pounded and sifted, and half an ounce
of caraway seeds. Having beaten this one
hour, bake it for the same time in a qutck
'oven, ;This is a very light cake, and is ve-
ry proper for young people and delicate
stomachs.
CAKES, RICH GINGERBREAD. To
one pound of dried and sifted flour, allow
half a pound of pounded loaf sugar, three-
quarters of a pound of fresh butter washed in
rose water, one pound of treacle, one nutmeg
grated, the weight of a nutmeg of pounded
mace, and as much of pounded cinuamon,
one ounce of pounded ginger, one and a half
of candied orange and lemon-peel, cut small,
half an ounce of blanched sweet almonds, cut
it into long thin bits, and two well-beaten
eggs. Melt the butter with the treacle, and
when nearly cold, stir in the eggs and the
real of the mgredients; mix all well together,
make it into round cakes, and bake them
upon tins.
CAKE, GINGERBREAD. Take tw
pounds of treacle, two and a quarter of flour,
of brown sugar and fresh butter three-quar-
ters of a pound each, four ounces of esrmwjDj
seeds, the Mune quantity of candied orange-
peel cut small, lour well-beaten eggs, and
half an ounce of pearl ashes; beat tbe butter
to a cream, and mix it with the rest of the
ingredients. The next day work it well up,
and bake it in a buttered tin.
CAKE, GLOVE. With flour make into
a paste thick enough to roll out, the beaten
yolks of ten eggs, five table-spoonfuls of rich
sweet cream, a little sugar, and some carda-
mons; cut it into fanciful forms with small
tins, and throw them into fresh boiling lard
or butter; when of a light brown color, drain
them before the fire. If fried in butter, add
a little water to the butter, and make it boil-
ing hot. »
CAKES, GIRDLE. Rub three ounces
of fresh butter into one pound of flour, with
half a tea-spoonful of salt; motsten jfrith a
sufficiency of sweet butter-milk to make it
into a paste; roll it out, and cut it into cakes
with a cup or tumbler, and bake them upon
a girdle.
CAKES, HONEY. One pound and a
half of dried and sifted flour, three-quarters
of a pound of honey, half a pound of finely
pounded loaf sugar, a quarter of a pound of
citron, and half an ounce of orange-peel cut
small, of pounded ginger and cinuamon, three
quarters of an ounce. Melt the sugar with
the honey, and mix in the other ingredients;
roll out the paste, and cut it into small cakes
of any form.
CAKES, HEART. With your hand
work a pound of butter to a cream, then put
to it twelve eggs, with only six of the whites
well-beaten, a pound of dried flour, a pound
of sifted sugar, four spoonfuls of |jpod brandy,
and a pound of currants washed and dried
before the fire. As the pans are filled, put
in two ounces of candied orange and citron,
and continue beating the cake till you put it
into tbe oven. This quantity will be suffi-
cient to fill three dozen of middling sized
pans.
CAKES, IRISH SEED. Beat to a
cream eight ounces of fresh butter, and a
quarter of a pint of rose water, putting in a
table-spoonful of rose water at a time; by'
degrees, mix into it a pound of sifted loaf
sugar, and then nine well-beaten eggs; add
twelve ounces of flour, and three of flour of
rice dried and sifted, a quarter of a pound
of blanched and pounded sweet or bitter al-
monds, a tea-spoonful of essence of lemon,


CAKE
CAKE
37
and one ounce of caraway seeds; beat all
these well together; bake it in a cake tin,
which must be buttered and lined with paper,
also buttered. It will require about one hour
and a half to bake in a quick oven. It may
be made without the almonds or the essence
of lemon,
CAKES, LITTLE. To a pound of flour
dried, add a pound of lump sugar rolled very
fine, the peel of two lemons chopped small,
and five ounces of butter; mix them thor-
oughly; let it stand sometime before the fire,
then add three eggs well beaten, the whites
separately, pick them with a fork into small
lumps, and bake them on a tin: this quanti-
ty will make about eighty cakes. Instead
of lemon-peel you may,, if you please, add
sixty bitter almonds blanched and beaten
with white of egg until they are quite fine.
CAKES, MANON. Form some puff
paste into an under-crust and cover some
baking-plates with it; then spread all over
them some frangipane, or marmalade, of
whatever sort you please; add some sweet-
meat, and then cover with a very thin crust;
gild and ornament them, then put them in
the oven; when they are three parts done,
sprinkle them with sugar, and glaze. When
they are glazed put them to finish baking in
a more gentle oven, and when done take
them out of the tins, and serve them either
hot or cold.
CAKES, MONTROSE. Of dried and
sifted flour, pounded and sifted loaf sugar,
and of fresh butter, one pound each wtll be
required, also twelve well-beaten eggs, three
quarters of a pound of cleaned and dried
currants; beat the butter to a cream with the
sugar; add the eggs by degrees, and then the
flour and currants, with two table-spoonfuls
of brandy, one of rose water, and half a
grated nutmeg; beat all well together for
twenty or thirty minutes, when it is to be
put into small buttered tins, half filling them,
and baking them in a quick oven. The
currants may be omitted.
CAKES, MEAT. See Meat.
CAKES, NUNS.. Take four pounds of
very fine flour, and mix with it three pounds
of double-refined sugar, finely beat and sifted;
dry them by the fire till your other materials
are prepared; take four pounds of butter,
beat it in your hands till it is very soft like
cream; beat thirty-four eggs, leave out six-
teen whites and takeout the treads from all;
beat the eggs and butter together till it ap-
ears like butter, pour in- four or five
ii oonfuls of rose or orange-flower water, and
beat it again; then take vour flour and sugar
with six ounces of caraway seeds; strew tl
in by degrees, beating it up all the while,
for two hours together; put in as much tinc-
ture of cinnamon, or ambergris, as you
please; butter your hoop, and let it stand
three hours in a moderate oven.
CAKES, NUNS' BEADS. Pound in a
mortar four ounces of good cheese, with a
little salt, the beaten yolks of three eggs, and
some crumbs of bread; roll them as large as
walnuts, cover them with puff paste, and fry
them in butter a light brown color. Serve
them in a napkin.
CAKES, OATMEAL. One only should
be made at a time, as the mixture dries
quickly. Put two or three handfulsof meal
into a bowl, and moisten it with water
merely sufficient to form it into a cake,
knead it out round and round with the hands
upon the paste-board, strewing meal under
and over it; it may be made as thin as a
wafer, or thicker, according to taste, and
put it on a hot iron plate, called a girdle.
Bake it till it be a light brown on the under
side, then take it olf, and toast tbat side
before the fire which was uppermost on the
girdle. The toaster is such as is commonly
used for heating smoothing irons, having a
back to support the cake. To make these
cakes soft, they must not be toasted before
the fire, but both sides done quickly on the
girdle.
CAKfc, PLUM. Three pounds of flour,
three pounds of currants, three-quarters of a
pound of almonds, blanched and beat grossly,
about half an ounce of them bitter, four
ounces of sugar, seven yolks and six whites
of egg's, one pint of cream, two pounds of
butter, half a pint of good ale yeast; mix the
eggs and the yeast together, strain them; set
the cream on the fire, melt the butter in it;
stir in the almonds, and half a pint of sack,
part of which should be put to the almonds
while beating; mix together the flour, cur-
rants and sugar, what nutmegs, cloves and
maee arc liked: stir these to the cream: put
in the yeast.
CAKES, POTATO CHEESE. (1)
Boil and peel half a pound of good potatoes,
bruise them in a mortar, and when nearly
cold drop in the yolk and white of an egg
at intervals, until four have been added,
beating the potatoes well all the time; then
add a quarter of a pound of sifted bread
crumbs, and put in two more eggs. Beat
to a cream six ounces of fresh butter, wtth
the same quantity of pounded loaf sugar;
put it into the mortar, with the grated peel
of one lemon, and mix all thoroughly. Line
the patty-pans with paste, fill them three


CAKE
CAKE
38
parts full, and bake them in a moderate
CAKES, POTATO CHEESE. (2)
Pound in a mortar five ounces of potatoes
with four of fresh butter, and the same quan-
tity of pounded loaf sugar, the grated peel
and juice of half a lemon, three well-beaten
eggs, and a table-spoonful of brandy; mix
all well together, and bake as betore di-
rected.
CAKES, PARLIAMENT. Put into a
sauce pan two pounds of treacle, and when
it boils, add a quarter of a pound of butter,
and pour it upon two pounds of flour; add a
tittle alum, and a bit of pearlash about the
size of a nut, and an ounce of ginger. Work
it well with the hand till quite smooth; let
it stand a day and a night, then roll it out
very thin, and cut it into oblong cakes.
CAKE, POUND. <1) Take one pound
of dried and sifted flour, the same quantity
of sifted loaf sugar, and of fresh butter wash-
ed in rose water; the well-beaten yolks of
twelve, and the whites of six eggs; then
with the hand beat the butter to a cream,
by degrees add the sugar, then the eggs and
the flour; beat it all well together for an
hour. Bake it in a tin pan buttered, or in
small ones in a quick oven.
CAKE, POUND. (2) Take of dried
and sifted flour, sifted loaf sugar, fresh but-
ter, cleaned and dried currants, one pound
each, and twelve eggs; then whisk the yolks
and whites of the eggs separately, while
another with the hand beats the butter to a
cream; and as the froth rises upon the eggs
add it tc^ the butter, and continue so domg
till it is all beaten in; mix the flour and
sugar together, and add them by degrees;
the last thing, mix in the currants, together
with a glass of brandy. It will require to
be beaten during a whole hour. Bake it in
a buttered tin.
CAKE, POUND. (3) To a pound of
sifted sugar, add a pound of fresh butter, and
mix them with the hand ten minutes; put to
them nine yolks and five whites of eggs well-
beaten; whisk all well, and add a pound of
sifted flour, a few caraway seeds, a quarter
of a pound of candied orange-peel cut into
slices, a few cutrants washed and picked,
and mix all together as light as possible.
CAKE, QUEEN. Beat one pound of
butter to a cream, with some rose water,
one pound of flour dried, one pound of sifted
sugar, twelve eggs; beat all well together;
add a few currants washed and dried; butter
small pans of a size for the purpose, grate
sugar over them; they are soon baked. They
may be done in a Dutch oven.
CAKE, ROYAL. Put a very little lemon-
peel, shred fine, into a stewpan, with two
i ounces of sugar, a small pinch of salt, a
piece of butter half the size of an egg, a glass
of water, and four or five spoonfuls of flour;
stir over the fire till the paste becomes thick,
and begins to adhere to the stewpan; then
! take it off, put in an egg, and stir it in the
: paste till it is well mixed; continue to add
one egg at a time, till the paste softens with-
out becoming liquid; then put in some
dried orange flowers, and two bitter almond
biscuits, the whole slued fine; make the
paste into little cakes, about the size round
of a half-crown % put them on buttered paper,
gild them withihe 5'olk of an egg beat up,
and bake half an hour in an oven moderately
hot.
CAKE, RICH. To two pounds and a
half of dried and sifted flour allow the same
quantity of fresh butter washed with rose-
water, two pounds of finely-pounded loaf
sugar, three pounds of cleaned and dried
currants, one nutmeg grated, half a pound
of sweetmeats cut small, a quarter of a
pound of blanched almonds pounded with a
little rose-water, and twenty eggs, the yolks
and whites separately beaten. The butter
must be beaten with the hand till it become
like cream; then add the sugar, and by
degrees the eggs, after these the resfr of the
ingredients, mixing in at last the currants,
with a tea-cupful of brandy, and nearly as
much orange-flower water. This mixture
must be beaten together rather more than
an hour, then put into a cakepan, which has
previously been buttered and lined with but-
tered paper; fill it rather more than three-
quarters full. It should be baked in a
moderate oven for three hours, and then
cooled gradually, by at f,rst letting it stand
sometime at the mouth of the oven.
CAKE, RICE. (I) Whisk ten eggs for
half an hour, add to them half a pound of flour
of rice, half a pound of pounded and sifted
loaf sugar, and the grated peel of two' lemons;
mix this into half a pound of fresh butter,
previously beaten to a cream. Bake the
cake in a buttered tin.
CAKE, RICE. (2) Take six ounces of
ground rice, six ounces of flour, three-quar-
ters of a pound uf fme sugar sifted, nine eggs,
the yolks and whites beaten separately; mix
all well together, grate in the rind of a lemon,
and beat it well half an hour.
CAKES, LITTLE RICE. Whisk weB
six yolks and two whites of eggs; then with
■


CAKE
CAKE
39
a horn spoon beat in six ounces of finely-
pounded loaf sugar, add eight ounces of sift-
ed ground rice, and two table-spoonfuls of
orange-flower or rose water, or the grated
peel of a lemon, and just before the mixture
ts to be put into the tins, stir into it six
ounces of fresh butter melted; dust the patty
pans with flour, or rub them with butter;
let them be half filled, and bake the cakes
in a quick oven.
CAKES, SMALL ROUT. Rub into
one pound of dried and sifted flour, half a
pound of butter, six ounces of pounded and
sifted loaf sugar, and the yolks of two well-
beaten eggs; mix them all into a paste with
a little rose water; divide the quantity, put
a few dried currants or car^ay seeds into
one half; roll out the paste, cut it into small
round cakes, and bake them upon buttered
tins.
• CAKE RICE, A sweet dtsh. Wash
well and drain a quarter of a pound of rice.
Boil witix a quart of fresh cream the peel of
one lemon, and when nearly cold take it out
and put in the rice; place the sauce pan over
a slow fire, and when the rice has swollen,
add a little salt, and sweeten with pounded
loaf sugar; wheuthe rice is quite tender, add
the yolks of eight eggs, and mix in gradually
the beaten whites, with a good bit of fresh
butter, and pour it into a mould; turn this
round, jhat the butter may equally cover
every part of it, then pour out the butter, and
strew over the inside a layer of grated bread;
with a paste brush or a slip of paper, sprinkle
all over it some of the clarified butter, add
more grated bread, pour in the rice, and
bake tt in a moderate oven for an hour.
. Turn it out upon a dish, and serve it with
or without a garnishing of preserved rasp-
berries, cherries, or currants.
CAKES, SPANISH. Rub, till quite
fine and smooth, one pound of butter with
two pounds of flour, then add a pound of
good brown sugar, rolled fine; mix all to-
gether with four well-beaten eggs; break
the paste mto small bits or knobs, and bake
them upon floured tins.
CAKES, SHREWSBURY. Take a
pound of butter, and put it in a little flat
pan, rub it till it is as fine as cream, then
take one pound of powdered sugar, a little
cinuamon and mace pounded, and four eggs,
yolks and whites together;. beat them with
your band till it is very light; then take one
pound add a half of sifted flour, work it
together, and roll it on your dresser, to what
size you like, only very flat, let your oven be
rather slow, and let them change their color,
then take them out.
CAKE, SPONGE. (1) Weigh ten eggs,
and their weight in very fine sugar, and that
of six in flour; beat the yolks with the flour,
and the whites alone, to a very stiff froth:
then by degrees mix the whites and the flour
with the other ingredients, and beat them
well half an hour. Bake in a quick oven an
hour.
CAKE, SPONGE. (2) Take the juice
and grated rind of a lemon, twelve eggs,
twelve ounces of finely-pounded loaf sugar,
the same of dried and sifted flour; then with
a horn spoon lieat the yolks of ten eggs, add
the sugar by degrees, and beat it till it will
stand when dropped from the spoon; put in
at separate times the two other eggs, yolks
and whites; whisk the ten whites for eight
minutes, and mix in the lemon-juice, and
when quite stiff, take as much as the whisk
will lift, and put it upon the yolks and sugar,
which must be beaten all the time; mix in
lightly the flour and grated peel, and pour it
all gradually over the whites; stir it together,
and bake it in a buttered tin, or in small
tins; do not more than half fill them.
CAKES, SHORT. Dissolve half a
pound of fresh butter in as much milk as
will make a pound and a half of flour into
a paste, roll it out about a quarter of an
inch thick, and cut it into large round cakes.
Do them in a frying-pan, and serve them hot.
They are eaten with butter.
CAKES, SALLY LUNN. Take one
pint of milk quite warm, a quarter of a pint
of thick small-beer yeast; put them into a pan
with flour sufficient to make it as thick as
batter,—cover it over, and let it stand till it
has risen as high as it will, i. e. about two
hours: add two ounces of lump sugar, dis-
solved in a quarter of a 'pint of warm milk,
a quarter of a pound of butter rubbed into
your flour very fine; then make your dough
the same as for French rolls, &c.; and let
it stand half an hour; then make up your
cakes, and .put them on tins: when they nave
stood to rise, bake them in a quick oven.
Care should be taken never to put your
yeast to water or milk too hot, or too cold, as
either extreme will destroy the fermentation.
In summer it should be lukewarm, in winter
a little warmer, and in very cold weather,
warmer still. When it has first risen, if yoa
are not prepared, it will not hurt to stand an
hour.
CAKES, SUGAR. Take half a pound
of 'dried flour, the same quantity of fresh
butter washed in rose water, and a quarter
of a pound of sifted loaf sugar; then mix
together the flour and sugar: rub in -the but-
ter, and add the yolk of an egg beaten with


CAKE
CALF
40
a table-spoonful of cream; make it into a
paste, roll, and rut it into small round cakes,
which lritke nlwn a floured tin.
CAKES, TEA. With a pound of flour
rub half a pound of butter; add the beaten
yolks of two, and the white of one egg, a
quarter of a pound of lxnmded loaf sugar,
and a few caraway seeds; mix it to a paste
with a little warm milk, cover it with a
cloth, and let it stand bcfore the fire for
nearly an hour; roll out the paste, and cut it
info round rakes with the top of :t glass, and
bake them upon floured tins.
CAKE, TWELFTH. Two pounds of
sifted flour, two pounds of sifted loaf su-
gar, two pounds of butter, eighteen eggs,
four pounds of currants, one half pound of
almonds blanched and chopped, one half pound
of citron, one pound of candied orange and
lemon peel cut into thin slices, a large nut-
meg grated, half an ounce of ground allspice;
ground cinuamon, mace, ginger, and corian-
ders, a quarter of an ounce of each, and a
gill of brandy. Put the butter into a stew-
pan, in a warm place, and work it into a
smooth cream with the hand, and mix it
wi^Brhe sugar and spice in a pan, (or on
your paste board) for sometime; then break
m the eggs by degrees, and beat it at least
twenty minutes; stir in the brandy, and then
the flour, and work it a little; add the fruit,
sweetmeats, and almonds, and mix all to-
gether lightly; have ready a hoop cased with
paper, on a baking-plate; put in the mixture,
smooth it on the top with your hand, dipped
in milk; put the plate on another, with saw
dust between, to prevent the bottom from
coloring too much: bake it in a slow oven
four hours or more, and when nearly cold,
ice it with icing. This mixture would make
a handsome cake, full twelve or fourteen
inches over.
CAKE, WHITE. Take of dried and
sifted flouridf fresh butter and of finely-pound-
ed loaf sugar, one pound each; five well-beaten ,
eggs, a quarter of a pint of cream, of candied
orange and lemon peel, cut small, three quar-
ters of an ounce each; one ounce of cara-
way seeds, half a grated nutmeg, a glass of
brandy, and a little rose water; then beat
the butter to a cream, and add all the other
ingredients to it, and at the last mix in one ta-
ble-spoonful of fresh yeast; let the cake rise
before the fire for half an hour. Bake it in
a buttered tin. Instantly upon takhtg it
out of the oven, with a feather, brush the
top all over with the beaten white of an egg,
and then sift loaf sugar upon it. Let it
stand at the mouth of the oven to harden.
CAKES, YEAST. Take a pound of
flour, two pounds of currants, washed and
picked, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter
a quarter of a pound of Lisbon sugar, a quar-
ter ,.f a |wund of citron and candied orange-
peel cut into slices, cinuamon and mace, a
small quantity of each pounded and sifted.
Make a hole in the centre of the ingredients,
put in a gill of sweet wine, a little warm
milk, mix all together, fill a hoop with it,
let it remain till tt rises, and bake it.
CAKES, YORKSHIRE. Take two
pounds of flour, and mix with it four ounces
of butter, melted in a pint of good milk,
three spoonfuls of yeast, and two eggs; beat
all well together, and let it rise; then kneud
it, and make it into cakes; let them rise on
tins before youbake, which do in a slow
oven. Anotheftort is made as above, leav-
ing out the butter. The first is shorter, the
last lighter.
CAKE, BISCUIT. One pound of flour,
five eggs well-beaten and strained, eight
ounces of sugar, a little rose or orange-flower
water, beat the whole thoroughly, and bake
it for one hour.
CALF'S BRAINS, wtth Oysters.
Blanch and clean the brains, then wipe them
dry, dip them into yolks of eggs, and roll
them in bread crumbs; fry them in boiling
lard till of a good color, drain them very
dry, and servt> with oysters, stewed either
white or brown. Garnish with broiled ham
cut in small round pieces.
CALF'S BRAINS. Cleanse two calves'
brains, and stew them in stock with two or
three spoonfuls of vinegar, a bunch of pars-
ley, scallions, a clove of garlic, three
cloves, thyme, laurel, and basil; when suffi-
ciently stewed, cut each piece of the brain
in two, dip them in a batter made of two
handfula of flour, diluted with a little oil, hail'
a pint of white wine, and salt. Fry them in
lard until the batter is crisp and the brains
of a gold color.
CALF'S BRAINS, wtth frted par-
slky. Blanch three or four brains of
nearly an equal size; parboil them, and
take off the skin; then boil them in water,
with a little salt, vinegar and butter. Serve
them with a sauce made of a little browned
butter, a table-spoonful of vinegar, some salt
and pepper, and some parsley fried very
green.
CALF'S CHITTERLINGS. Cut them
open with scissors, wash and cleanse them
thoroughly, lay them for a night into sSfr
and-water, then wash them well, parboil ,
and cut them, into small pieces, dip them ij>*


CALF
CALF
41
to a thick batter, seasoned with pepper,
salt, and a little white wine. Fry them of
a light brown color in beef drippmg; serve
with a fringe of fried parsley. Or, After
being parboiled, they may be roasted, when
they must be constantly basted with butter,
dredged with flour to froth them nicely;
then served with melted butter, and lemon
pickle poured over them. Or, They may
be baked—when, after being parboiled, they
are rubbed over with butter, and put into
the oven on an iron frame, which is placed
in a deep dish. This oblong frame of
white iron, about two inches high, will be
found useful in baking every kind of meat.
CALF'S CHAUDRON, FRICASSEE.
Parboil a calf's chaudron, and when cold,
cut it in pieces about as big as walnuts;
season them with salt, pepper, nutmeg, cloves,
mace, an onion, tarragon, and parsley, shred
fine; fry them in a ladleful of good broth
and fresh butter; make a sauce of mutton
gravy, orange and lemon juice, eggs' yolks,
and grated nutmeg; toss up these ingredi-
ents w,th the chaudron, then dish it and
serve.
CALF'S-FEET PUDDING. See Pud-
dings.
CALF'S FEET JELLY. See Jelly.
CALF'S FEET, POTTED. Boil the
feet as fttr jelly, pick all the meat from the
bones, add to it half a pint of gravy, a little
salt, pepper, and nutmeg, garltc, a shallot }
and some shred ham; simmer it lor half au
hour, dip a mould into water, put in a lay-
er of the meat, then some neatly-cut pickled
beet root, and some boiled minced parsley,
then a layer of meat, and so on, till the
mould be filled; when cold, tutu it out.
Garnish with pickled eggs, beet root, and
parsley.
CALF'S FEET, PLAIN. uald, clean,
and blanch some calves' feet -ftl them till
the bones will come out, thet tew them in
a blanc. See Calf's Head ^lain. When
done, drain and serve th.-a with parsley
and butter.
CALF'S HEAD, HASHED. Boil the
head almost enough, and take the meat of
the best side neatly from the bone, and lay
it in a small dish; wash it over with the
yolks of two eggs, and cover it with crumbs,
a few herbs nicely shred, a little pepper, salt,
and nutmeg, all mixed together previously.
Set the dish before the fire, and keep turn-
mg it now and then, that all parts may be
equally .brown. In the meantime slice the
remainder of the head, and the tongue,
I (peeled); put a pint of good gravy into a
'pan, with au onion, a small bunch of herbs,
(consisting of parsley, basil, savory, tarra-
gon, knotted marjoram, and a little thyme),
a. little salt and Cayenue, a shallot, a glass
of Sherry, and a little oyster liquor: boil this
for a few minutes, and strain it upon the
j meat, which must be sprinkled with flour.
I Add some fresh or pickled mushrooms, a
few truffles and morels, and two spoonfuls of
catchup; beat up half the brains, and put
them to the rest, with a bit of butter and
flour. Simmer the whole. Beat the other
part of the brains with shred lemon-peel, a
little nutmeg and mace, some parsley sbred,
and an egg; fry this in little caltes of a fine
gold color; dip some oysters into the yolk
of an egg, and fry the same way, also some
good forcemeat balls, and garnish the dish
with them.
CALF'S HEAD SOUP, OR MOCK
TURTLE. See Soups.
CALF'S HEAD. With a sharp knife
cut all the meat entire from the bone, cut
out the tongue, and carefully take out the
brains; lay them all in cold water for two or
three hours. Mince very small two pottnds
of lean veal, and one pound of beef suet,
with the grated crumb of a penuy loaf,
some sweet herbs, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg,
pepper, and salt; mix them well together, and
bind it with the yolks of four eggs beaten up;
reserve as much of the forcemeat as will
make twenty small balls: wash the head
clean, wipe it dry, and put the forcemeat in-
to the inside; close it, and tie it firmly with
tape; put it into a stewpan with two quarts
of gravy, half a pint of white wine, and a
bunch of sweet herbs; cover it closely, and
let it stew gently; bail the tongue, cut it in-
to thin slices, mince the brains with a little
parsley and a table-spoonful of flour, add
some pepper, salt, grated lemon-peel, and
nutmeg; beat two eggs and mix with the
brains, drop it with a spoon in small cakes
into a pan of boiling dripping, and fry
them of a light brown color. Fry the force-
meat balls, and drain them, with the cakes,
upon the back of a sieve before the fire;
when the head has stewed till it be suffic-
iently tender, put it into a dish and take off
the tape, strain the gravy, and thicken it
with a table-spoonful of flour of rice, and a
little bit of butter; if not well seasoned, add
more salt and pepper, put in the tongue,
make it all hot, and pour it over the head.
Garnish with the brain-cakes, forcemeat
balls, and cut lemon.
CALF'S HEAD, ROASTED. Wash
and clean it well, parboil it, take out
the bones, brains, and tongue; make force-
4*


CALF
CALF
42
neat sufficient for the head, and some
nails with bread crumbs, minced suet, pars-
ley, grated ham, and a little pounded veal,
or cold fowl; season with pepper, salt, grated
nutmeg, and lemon-peel; bind it with an"
egg, lieaten up, fill the head with it, which
must tben be sewed up, or fastened with
skewers and tied. While roasting, baste it
well with butter; beat up the brains with a
little cream, the yolk of an egg, some minc-
ed parsley, a little pepper and salt; blanch
the tongue, cut it into slices, and fry it
with the brains, forcemeat balls, and thin
slices of bacon. Serve the head with white
or brown thickened gravy, and place the
tongue, forcemeat balls, and brains round it.
Garnish with cut lemon. It will require
one hour and a half to roast.
CALF'S HEAD, PLAIN. Clean a
calf's head nicely, and cut out the bone of
the lower jaw, and of the nose, taking out
the nose bone as close to the eyes as possi-
ble; wash the head well in warm water,
and let it blanch in some clean water. Pre-
pare a blanc, or sauce, as follows:—One
pound of beef suet, and one pound of fat
bacon, cut small, half a pound of butter, a
bunch of parsley, a little thyme, two or
three bay leaves, one or two onions, and the
juice of a lemon; season with salt, pepper,
mace, cloves, and allspice; boil all this an
hour in six pints of water, then tie up the
head in a cloth, boil it in the sauce about
three hours, and drain it; take out the
tongue, skin and replace it; serve quite
hot, with the following sauce—minced shal-
lots, parsley, the brains minced, some vine-
gar, salt, and pepper.
CALF'S HEAD, SOUSED. Scald
and bone a calf's head, and soak it for sev-
en or eight hours, changing the water twice;
dry it well. Season with salt and bruised
garlic; roll it up, bind it very ttght, and
boil it in white wine, salt and water; when
done, put it, with the liquor, in a pan, and
keep it for use. Serve up either whole, or
in slices, with oil, vinegar, and pepper.
CALF'S HEAD, BIGAREE. Clean
and blanch a calf's head, boil it till the
bones will come out easily, then bone and
press it between two dishes, so as to give it
an oblong form; beat with the yolks of four
eggs a little melted butter, pepper, and salt.
Divide the head when cold, and brush it all
over with the beaten eggs, and strew over it
grated bread; repeat this twice. With the
grated bread, which is put over one half, a
good quantity of finely-minced parsley should
be mixed; place the head upon a dtsh, and
bake it of a nice brown color. Serve it
with a sauce of parsley and butter, and
with one of good gravy, mixed with the
brains which have ueen previously boiled,
and chopped, and seasoned with a little
Cayenue and salt.
CALF'S HEART, ROASTED. FiU
the heart with the following forcemeat: a
quarter of a |wund of beel suet, chopped
small, grated bread, parsley, marjoram, lem-
on-peel, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and the yolk
of an egg. Lay a veal caul, or a sheet of
palier on the stuffmg to keep it in its place.
Put the heart into a Dutch oven, before a
clear fire, and turn it frequently, till thor-
oughly roasted all round. Garnish with
slices of lemon, and pour melted butter over
it.
CALF LIVER, BROILED. Slice it,
season with pepper and salt, and broil nice-
ly: rub a bit of cold butter on it, and serve
hot and bot.
CALF'S LIVER, LARDED AND
ROASTED. Lard a fine calf's liver the
sa,nt' as a fricandeau, and let it He for
twenty-four hours in vinegar, with a sliced
onion, some parsley, a little thyme, a bay
leaf, some salt and pepper. Roast, and
baste it well with butter, then glaze it with
a light glaze, and serve it with a poivrade,
or any other sauce.
CALF'S LIVER, ROASTED. (1)
Wash and wipe it; then cut a long hole in it,
and stuff it with crumlw of bread, chopped
anchovy, a good dual of fat bacon, onion, salt,
pepper, a bit of butter, and an egg; sew
the liver up; lard it, wrap it in a veal caul,
and roast it. Serve with good brown gra-
vy and currant jelly.
CALF'S LIVER, ROASTED. (2)
Lard a calf's liver with streaky bacon;
roast and baste it frequently with its own
gravy.
CALF'S LIVER, ROASTED. (3)
Lard a fine -vdf's liver, and pickle it in
vinegar, with 't onion, cut into slices, pars-
ley, salt, pepi r, thyme, and a bay leaf.
When it has I 'n soaked for twenty-four
hours, fasten it o \ spit, roast and baste it
frequently. Glair t with a light glaze, M
it is naturally of a black color. Serve un-
der it a brown poiv, ude.
CALF'S LIVER, SCOLLOPS. Par-
boil and cut into slices a very nice calf'i
liver, and shape them into hearts. Stew
some fine herbs, parsley, shallots, and mush-
rooms; then add the calf's liver, and let it.
I stew over a slow fire; when done on one
I side, turn and season it with pepper and


CAP
CAP
43
galt; take out the liver, dredge in a little
flour over the herbs, and add some more
gravy; let this boil for ten minutes, then
neat the liver in the sauce before servmg it.
This may be eaten at breakfast.
CALF'S PLUCK. Wash it very clean,
and, if liked, stuff the heart with a force-
meat, made of crumbs of bread, butter, and
parsley, and seasoned with pepper, salt, and
grated nutmeg. Fasten it firmly with the
liver and lights, tying them to the skewers
while roasting; baste it well with butter,
and froth it the same way in which veal is
done, and serve it with melted butter, mix-
ed with a table-spoonful of lemon pickle, or
vinegar poured over it.
CAPER SAUCE. See Sauce.
CAPILLAIRE. Take fourteen pounds
of sugar, three |xnmds of coarse sugar, six
eggs beat in with the shells, three quarts of
water; boil it up twice; skim it well, then
add to it a quarter of a pint of orange-flow-
er water; strain it through a jelly-bag, and
put it into bottles; when cold, mix a
spoonful or two of this sirup, as it is liked
for sweetness in a draught of warm or cold
water.
CAPILOTADE ITALIAN. Cut up
a cold roast fowl; then take a good slice
of butter, and some shred mushrooms and
potherbs; fry these till they are about to
turn brown, with a tea-spoonful of flour:
then add to them a large glass of white
wine. Let the whole simmer together for a
quarter of an hour; next put in the pieces
of fowl, and heat them up for a few minutes.
Garnish your dish with fried slices of bread;
and just before you serve, pour into the
saucepan two table-spoonfuls of oil, taking
care that it does not boil, and stir it up well
with the sauce.
CAPONS OR FOWLS, Must be kill-
ed a couple of davs in moderate, and more
in cold weather, before they are dressed, or
they will eat tough: a good criterion of the
ripeness of poultry f ir the spit, is the ease
with which you can then pull out the feathers;
when a fowl is plucked, leave a few to help
you to ascertain this. They are managed
exactly in the same manuer, and sent up
with the same sauces as a turkey, only they
require proportionally less tune at the lire.
A full-grown five-toed fowl, about an hour
and a quarter. A moderate-sized one, an
hour A chicken, from thirty to forty min-
utes. Here, also, pork sausages fried are
in general a favorite accompaniment, or
turkey stuffing; see forcemeats; put in plen-
ty of it, so as to plump out the fowl, which
must be tied closely (both at the neck and
rump), to keep in the stuffing. Some cooks
put the liver of the fowl into this forcemeat,
and others mince tt and pound it, and rub it
up with tlour and melted butter. When
the bird is stuffed and trussed, score the
gizzard nicelv, dip it into melted butter, let
H dram, and then season it with Cayenue
and salt; put it under one pinion, antl the
liver under the other; to preventi their get-
ting hardened or scorched, cover them with
double paper buttered. Take care that
your roasted poultry be well browned; it is
as indispensable that roasted poultry should
have a rich brown complexion, as boiled
poultry should have a delicate white one.
CAPON,TO CHOOSE. If it is young,
his spurs are short and his legs smooth; if
a true capon, a fat vein on the side of lns
breast, the comb pale, and a thick belly and
rump; if fresh, he will have a close hard
vent; if stale, a loose open vent.
CAPON, THE FRENCH WAY. Take
a quart of white wine, season tbe capon
with salt, cloves, and whole pepper, a lew
shallots; and then put the capon in an earth-
en pan; you must take care it has not room
to shake; it must be covered close, and done
over a slow charcoal fire.
CAPON PASTY. Roast a capon, let
it be cold, take the flesh from the bones and
slice it, but keep the thighs and pinions
whole. Add to the flesh of the capon, four
sweetbreads and half a pint of oysters, sea-
son them with salt, cloves, nutmeg, and
mace, sweet marjoram, penuyroyal, and
thyme, minced; lay a sheet of paper or
paste in your pasty-pan, and lay the thighs
and pinions on the bottom, and strew them
over with sliced onions, then put in the
flesh of the capon, the sweetbreads, and the
oysters, cut in halves; over these strew a
handful of chestnuts, boiled and blanched,
then put butter over them, close up your pan
and bake it; when done, add gravy, good
stock, drawn butter, anchovies, and grated
nutmeg; garnish with slices of lemon, and
serve. Turkey may be done in the same
manuer.
CAPONS A LA TURQUE. Pick,
and clean verv nirely, two fme capons ; wash
the inside perfectly clean with warm water,
and let them soak in warm water for a
quarter of an hour; dry them well, and put
into them some rice which has been boiled
till soft in some rich well-seasoned stock,
truss and cover them wkh layers of bacon,
wrap them in pa|ier, and roast them for an
hour by a hanging-jack; serve them, put-
ting all round the dish a part of the rice


CAR
CAR
44
which was prepared for the stuffing, and
pour over the fowls a veloute sauce. One
fine large fowl may be dressed in this
manuer.
CAPSICUMS, TO PICKLE. Gather
the pods, with the stalks on, before they turn
red; cut a sltt down the side wtth a pen-
knife, and,take out all the seeds, but as lit-
tle of the meat as possible; lay them in a
strong brine for three days, changing it eve-
ry day; then take them out, lay them on a
cloth, and lay another over them till they
are quite dry; boil vinegar enough to cover
them, put in some mace and nutmeg beat
small; put the pods into a glass or jar, and
when the liquor is cold, pour it over, then
tie a bladder and leather over them.
CARDOONS, WITH CHEESE. String
and cut them an inch long, put them into a
saucepan with red wine, seasoned with pep-
per and salt, stew them till they are tender,
put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, and
when of a proper thickness pour them into
a dish, squeeze the juice of an orange into
the sauce, and scrape over them some Par-
mesan or Cheshire cheese, and then brown
them with a cheese-iron, but not of too high
a color.
CARDOONS, TO DRESS. Cut them
in pieces six inches long, and put them on a
string; boil till tender, have ready a piece
of butter in a pan, flour and fiy them. They
may also be tied in bundles, and served as
asparagus boiled on a toast, and pour but-
ter over.
CARDOONS, SPANISH. Cut them
into lengths of three inches, be careful not
to use those which are hollow and green;
boil them for half an hour, then put them
into lukewarm water to cleanse them from
their slime; then dress them in some stock,
with a spoonful of flour, some salt, onions,
roots, a bunch of sweet herbs, a little ver-
juice, and a little butter; when done, put
t them into a cull is with some stock; cook
them for an hour in this sauce, and serve.
CARROTS. Let them be well washed
and brushed, not scraped. An hour is
enough for young spring carrots; grown car-
rots must be cut in half, and will take from
an hour and a half to two hours and a half.
When done, rub off the peels with a clean
coarse cloth, and slice them in two or four,
according to their size. The best way to
toy if they are done enough, is to pierce them
with a fork. Many people are fond of cold
carrot with cold beef; ask if you shall cook
enough for some to be left to send up with
the cold meat.
CARAMEL, OR BOILED SUGAR.
Break into a small copper or brass pan, one
pound of refined sugai,—put in a gill of
spring water;—set it on a fire, and when
it boils, skim it quite clean, and let it boil
quick, till it comes to the degree called
Crack, which may be known by dipping a
teas|xwn or skewer into the sugar, and let
it drop to the bottom of a pan of cold water;
and if it remains hard, it has attained that
degree; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon,
and let it remain one minute longer on the
fire, then set the pan into another of cold
water:—have ready moulds of any shape,
—rub them over wtth sweet oil, dip a spoon
or fork into the sugar, and throw it over the
mould in fine threads, till it is quite covered:
—make a small handle of caramel, or stick
on two or three small gum paste rings, by
way of ornament, and place it over small
pastry of any description.
CARP, BOILED. Scale and clean a
brace of carp, reserving the liver and roe;
take half a pint of vinegar, or a quart of
sharp cider, add as much water as will cov-
er the fish, a piece of horse-radish, an onion
cut into slices, a little salt, and a faggot of
sweet herbs; boil the fish in this liquor, and
make a sauce as follows:—strain some of
the liquor the fish has been boiled in, and
put to it the liver minced, a pint of Port
wine, two anchovies, two or three heads of
shallots chopped, some salt and black pep-
per, a little Cayenue, a table-spoonful of soy;
boil and strain it, thicken it with flour and
butter, pour it over the carp hot, garnish
with the roe fried, cut lemon and parsley.
CARP, STEWED. Scale and clean
a brace of carp, reserving the liver and
roe; pour over the fish in a deep pan a pint
of vinegar, which may be elder vinegar, if
the flavor is preferred, with a little mace,
three cloves, some salt and Jamaica pepper,
two onions sliced, a faggot of parsley, basil,
thyme, and marjoram; let them soak an
hour, then put them in a stewpan with the
vinegar, and other titings, the liver chopped,
a pint of Madeira, and three pints of veal
stock; stew them an hour or two accord-
ing to their size; take out the fish and put
them over a pan of hot water to keep warm
while the following sauce is made:—Strain
the liquor, and add the yolks of three eggs
beaten, half a pint of cream, a large spoon-
ful of flour, and a quarter of a pound of
butter, stir it constantly, and just before
putting it over the carp, squeeze in the
juice of a lemon. Boil or fry the roe.
Plain boiled carp may be served with this
sauce, and is dished in a napkin.
CARP, FRIED. Clean and scale a


C AU
CHA
45
carp; split it up the back; flatten the back-
bone, sprinkle your fish with flour, then
sprinkle the roes which have been put aside,
put the whole into a frying-pan made very
hot, fry to a rich color, and serve it with
lemon-juice.
CARROT FRITTERS. Beat two or
three boiled carrots to a pulp with a spoon;
add to them six eggs and a handful of flour;
moisten them with either cream, milk, or
white wine, and sweeten them. Beat all
together well, and fry in boiling lard. When
of a good color, take them off and squeeze
on them the juice of a Seville orange, and
strew over line sugar.
CARROT PUDDING. See Pudding.
CASSILE. Mix two table-spoonfuls of
potato-flour with two or three of cream or
good milk; boil for a few minutes with a
quart of cream or milk, the peel of a lemon
and a bit of cinuamon ; -itir tt with the flour
and cream; sweeten, and stir it again over
the fire for three or four minutes; pour it in-
to a mould; turn it out when cold.
CAULIFLOWER. Choose those that
are close and white, and of the middle size;
trim off the outside leaves; cut the stalk off
flat at the bottom; let them lie in salt and
water an hour before you boil them. Put
them into boiling water with a handful of
salt in it; skim it well, and let it boil slow-
ly till done, which a small one will be in fif-
teen, a large one in about twenty minutes;
tike it up the moment it is enough, a min-
ute or two longer boiling will spoil it.
CAULIFLOWERS OR BROCCOLI,
PICKLED. Choose those that are hard,
yet sufficiently rtpe, cut away the leaves and
stalks. Set on a stewpan half full of water,
salted in proportion of a quarter of a pound
of salt to a quart of. water; tluow in the
cauliflower, and let it heat gradually; when
it boils take it up with a spoon Mtll of holes,
and spread them on a cloth to dry before
the fire, for twenty-four hours at least; when
quite dry, put them, piece by piece, into
jars or glass tie-overs, and cover them with
the pickle we have directed for beet roots,
or make a pickb by infusing three ounces
of the curry powder for three days in a quart
of vinegar by the side of the fire. Nastur-
tinms are excellent prepared as above.
CAULIFLOWERS, PICKLED. Cut
the cauliflowers in pieces, and throw them
into boiling water for a quarter of an hour;
then lay them on cloths to drain. Put them
in a jar with cloves and salt, and cover
them with the best vinegar.
CAULIFLOAVER SALAD. Whei
you have prepared and boiled the cauh%
flowers, drain and let them cool; cut them
in pieces; season them with salt, pepper,
oil and vinegar, and eat them as any other
salad.
CAUDLE. (1) Boil up half a pint of
fine gruel, with a bit of butter the size of a
large nutmeg, a large spoonful of brandy,
the same of white wine, one of capillaire, a
piece of lemon-peel, and nutmeg.
CAUDLE. (2) Make a fine smoctu
gruel of half-grits; when boiled, strain tt,
stir it at times till cold. When wanted for
use, add sugar, wine, and lemon-peel, with
some nutmeg. According to taste, you may
add, if you please, besides the wine, t spoon-
ful of brandy, or lemon-juice.
CAUDLE, BROWN. Boil the gruel
the same as for white caudle, with six spoon-
fuls of oatmeal, and strain it; then add a
quart of good ale, not bitter; boil it, then
sweeten it according to your taste, and add
half a pint of white wine. When you do
not put in the white wine, let it be half ale.
CAUDLE, COLD. Boil a quart of
spring water; when cold, add the yolk of
an egg, the juice of a small lemon, six spoon-
fuls of sweet wine, sugar to your taste, and
one ounce of sirup of lemons.
CECILS. Mix over the fire for a few
minutes the following ingredients: minced
meat of whatever kind you please, bread
crumbs, plenty of onion, lemon-peel, nut-
meg, parsley chopped, pepper, salt, a little
butter, and some anchovies. When nearly
cold, roll them up into balls about the size
of an egg; moisten them with egg, strew
bread crumbs over them, and fry them of a
good clear color: serve them with made
gravy.
CELERY, TO STEW. Wash and
clean some heads of celery, cut them into
pieces of two or three mches long, boil
them in veal stock till tender. To half a
pint of cream add the well-beaten yolks of
two eggs, a bit of lemon-peel, grated nut-
meg, and salt, also a bit of butter; make it
hot, stirring it constantly; strain it upon the
celery; heat it thoroughly, but do not let it
boil.
CHARLOTTE. (1) Cut a sufficient
number of thin slices of white bread to cover
the bottom and line the sides of a baking,
dish, first rubbing it thickly with butter.
Put thin slices of apples into the dish in
layers, till the dish is full, strewing sugar


CHE
CHE
46
hnd bits of butter between. In thc mean.
time, eoak asi many thin slices of bread as
will cover the whole, in warm milk; over
which place a plate, and a weight, to keep
the bread close upon the apples; let it bake
slowly for three hours. For a middling-
sized dish, you should use half a pound of
butter for the whole.
CHARLOTTE. (2) This second course
may be made of any kind of fruit you please,
and is eaten hot. If apples are used, pare,
core, and cut about twenty of them into
pmall pieces, and put them into a stewpan
with some water, a good piece of fresh but-
ter, poder-sugar, pounded cinuamon, and
grated lemon-peel, and stew till the water is
dried up; then set them to cooI in an earth-
en ware vessel. Cut some very thin slices
of crumb of bread, dip them in melted fresh
butter, and lay them neatly all over the bot-
tom and round the sides of the stewpan;
then pour in the apples, leaving a hole in
the middle, in which put apricot marma-
lade. Cover the whole with bread, sliced
thin, and buttered as above. Place it in a
hot oven, bake it an hour, and turn it out.
CHARLOTTE DES POMMES. Pare,
core, and mince fourteen or fifteen French
rennet apples; put them into a frying-pan,
with some pounded loaf sugar, a little pound-
ed cinuamon, grated lemon-peel, and two
ounces and a half of fresh butter; fry them
a quarter of an hour over a quick fire, stir-
ring them constantly. Butter a shape of
the size the charlotte is intended to be; cut
strips of bread about the width of two fin-
gers, and long enough to reach from the
bottom to the rim of the shape, so that the
whole be lined with bread; dip each bit in-
to melted butter, and then put a layer ef
the fried apples, and one of apricot jam or
marmalade, and then one of bread dipped
into butter; begin and finish with it. Bake
it in an oven for nearly an hour; turn it out
to serve it. It may be boiled, and served
with a sweet sauce.
CHEESE, BOILED. Grate a quarter
of a pound of good cheese, put it into a
sauce pan, with a bit of butter the size of a
nutmeg, and half a tea-cupful of milk, stir it
over the fire till it boil, and then add a well-
beaten egg; mix it all together, put it into
a small dish, and brown it before the fire.
CHEESE, CAKE OF. Take about the
fourth part of a close, fat Brie cheese, pound
and rub it through a sieve; mix with it a
pint and a half of flour; lay it on the board,
make a ltole in the middle, into which put
three quarters of a pound of butter, and work
it in well; add to it a little Gruyere cheese
grated, and six eggs. Knead these all to-
gether well; mould it up, and let it stand
lor half an hour; then roll it out, and make
it into a cake of about three inches; mark
it with a knife on one side in chequers, and
on the other in rays; dtrez, and bake it in
a moderate oven.
CHEESE CREAM. Warm three hall
pints of cream with one half pint of milk,
or according to the same proportion, and
put a little renuet to it; keep it covered in
a warm place till it is curdled; have a pro-
per mould with holes, either of China or any
other; put the curds into it to drain, about
an hour, or less: serve with a good plain
cream, and pounded sugar over it.
CHEESECAKES. (1) Puttwoquarts
of new milk into a stewpan, set it near the
fire, and stir in two table-spoonfuls of ren-
net: let it stand till it is set (this will take
about an hour); break it well with yo'tr
hand, and let it retrain half an hour longer;
then pour off the whey, and put the curd into
a colander to drain; when quite dry, put it
in a mortar, and pound it quite smooth;
then add four ounces of sugar, pounded antl
sifted, and three ounces of fresh butter; oil
it first by putting it in a little potting-'iet,
and setting it near the fire; stir it all well
together: beat the yolks of four eggs in a
basin, with a little nutmeg grated, lemon-
peel, and a glass of brandy; add this to the
curd, with two ounces of currants, washed
and picked; stir it all well together; have
your tins ready lined with puff paste about
a quarter of an inch thick, notch them all
round the edge, and fill each with the curc'-
Bake them twenty minutes. When you
have company, and want a variety, you can
make a mould of curd and cream, by put-
ting the curd in a mould full of holes, instead
ot the colander: let it stand for six hours,
then turn it out very carefully on a dish, and
pour over it half a pint of good cream sweet-
ened with loaf sugar, and a little nutmeg.
What there is left, if set in a cool place,
will make excellent cheesecakes the next
day.
CHEESECAKES. (2) Put a spoonful
of renuet into a quart of milk; when turned,
drain the curd through a coarse sieve, gent-
ly break the curd, and rub in a quarter of
a pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of
sugar, nutmeg, and two Naples biscuits
grated, the yolks of four eggs, and the white
of one, half an ounce of almonds, half bitter
and half sweet, well beaten in a mortar,
with two spoonfuls of rose water, four ounces
of currants; put in the curd, and mix all
together. One quart of milk, and threts
dessert spoonfuls of rice-flour, six eggs, leave


CHE
GHE
47
out three of the whites, and currants to
your taste.
CHEESECAKES. (3) Beat eight
eggs well, while a quart of milk is on the
fire, and when it boils, put in the eggs, and
stir them till they come to a curd; then pour
it out, and when it is cold, put in a little
salt, two spoonfuls of rose water, and three-
quarters of a pound of currants well washed;
put it into puff paste, and bake it. If you
use tin patties to bake in, butter them, or
you will not be able to take them out; but
tf you bake them in glass or china, only an
upper crust will be necessary, as you will
not want to take them out when you send
them to table.
CHEESECAKES. (4) Take one pound
of loaf sugar pounded, six yolks, and four
whites of eggs beaten, the juice of three fine
lemons, the grated rind of two, and a quar-
ter of a pound of fresh butter; put these in-
gredients into a saucepan, and stir the mix-
ture gently over a slow fire till it be of the
consistence of honey; pour it into small
jars, and when cold put paper dipped in
brandy over them. It will keep good for a
year.
CHEESE, POUNDED. Cut a pound
of good mellow cheese into thin bits; add
to tt two, and if the cheese is dry, three
ounces of fresh butter; pound, and rub them
well together in a mortar till it is quite
smooth. When cheese is dry, and for those
whose digestion is feeble, this is the best
way of eating it; and spread on bread, it
makes an excellent luncheon or supper.
The piquance of this is sometimes increas-
ed by pounding with it curry powder, ground
spice, black pepper, Cayenue, and a little
made mustard; and some moisten it with a
glass of Sherry. If pressed down hard in
a jar, and covered with clarified butter,
it will keep for several days in cool weath-
er.
CHEESE, ROASTED. Grate three
ounces of fat cheese, mix it with the
yolks of two eggs, four ounces of grated
bread, and three ounces of butter; beat the
whole well in a mortar, with a dessert spoon-
ful of mustard, and a little salt and pepper.
Toast some bread, cut it into proper pieces;
lay the paste, as above, thick upon them,
put them into a Dutch oven covered with a
dish, till hot through, remove the dish, and
le, the cheese brown a little. Serve as hot
as possible.
CHEESE, STEWED. Melt three-
quarters of an ounce of butter in a tea-cup-
ful of cream, mix with it a quarter of a
pound of good cheese finely grated, beat f.
well together; put a slice of toasted bread
into a dish, and pour the mixture over it,
and brown it with a salamander.
CHEESE TOASTED, OR RABBIT.
Cut ,a slice of bread, toast it, and soak it
in red wine, put it before the fire; cut some
cheese in very thin slices, and rub some but-
ter over the bottom of a plate, lay the cheese
upon it, and pour in two or three spoonfuls
of white wine, and a little mustard; cover
it with another plate, and set it on a chafmg-
dish of coals two or three minutes, then stir
it till it is well mixed; when it is mixed
enough, lay it upon the bread, and brown it
with a salamander.
CHEESE TOASTED. Cut a slice of
bread about half an inch thick; pare off the
crust, and toast it very slightly on one side
so as just to brown tt, without making it
hard or burning it. Cut a slice of good
fat mellow cheese, a quarter of an inch
thick, not so big as the bread by half an
inch on each side: pare off the rind, cut out
all the specks and rotten parts, and lay it
on the toasted bread in a cheese-toaster;
carefully watch it that it does not burn, and
stir it with a spoon to prevent a pellicle
forming on the surface. Have ready good
mustard, pepper and salt. If you observe
the directions here given, the cheese will
eat mellow, and will be uniformly done,
and the bread crisp and soft, and will well
deserve its ancient appellation of a " rare
bit." This Receipt, as well as every other
worth extracting, is from the Cook's Oracle.
The Editor goes on to say. We have noth-
ing to add to the directions given for toast-
ing the cheese in the last receipt, except that
in sending it up, it will save much time in
portioning it out at table, if you have half a
dozen small silver or tin pans to fit into the
cheese-toaster, and do the cheese in these:
each person may then be helped to a sepa-
rate pan, and it will keep the cheese much
hotter than the usual way of eating if on a
cold plate. Obs.—Ceremony seldom tri-
umphs more completely over comfort than in
the serving out of this dish; which, to be
presented to the palate in perfection, it is
imperatively indispensable that it be intro-
duced to the mouth as soon as it appears on
the table.
CHERRY BRANDY. (1) Pick and
bruise eight pounds of black maroons, and th«
same quantity of small black cherries; let them
stand for two months in a cask with six
gallons of brandy, two pounds of crushed
sugar, and a quart of sack well stirred to-
gether. At the end of that time it may ix
drawn off and bottlfcni.


CHI
CHI
48
CHERRY BRANDY. (2) Choose
fine sound morella cherries, and having
taken off the stalks, place them in layers
in glass jars; strew powder-sugar between
each layer, and cover them with brandy.
As soon as the cherries have imbibed the
brandy, pour in more, so as to keep them
constautly covered.
CHERRIES, DRIED. Take large
cherries, not too ripe; pick off the stalks,
and take out the stones with a quill cut
nearly as for a pen: to three pounds of which
take three pounds or piuts of clarified sugar;
boil it to the degree of blown; put in the
cherries, give them a boil, and set them by
in an earthen pan till the next day; then
strain the sirup, add more sugar, and boil
it of a good consistence; put the cherries in,
and bod them five minutes, and set them by
another day: repeat the boiling two more
days, and when wauted, drain them some-
time, and lay them on wire sieves to dry in
a stove, or nearly cold oven.
CHERRY PUDDING. See Puddings.
CHERVIL, Is principally used in soups
and stuffing, and is generally preserved with
other herbs as follows: take of sorrel, chervil,
beet, purslain, and cucumbers, if in season,
quautities according to your liking; wash
them well;* mince and press them in your
hand, to squeeze out all the water. Put
them iuto a kettle with water, some butter
and salt, and boil them uutil the water is
eutirely consumed. Then take them out,
and when cold, put them iuto pots; cover
them with warmed butter. When you
waut to use these herbs, put them iuto some
stock that has very little salt in it. If they
are required for a farce or garnish, boil them
a minute or two in some butter; thicken
with the yolks of eggs and milk; when so
prepared, they may be served under hard
eggs or broiled fish. For sauce, it must be
chopped small, boiled in salt and water, and
mixed with melted butter.
CHESTN UTS, Should be placed on the
fire in a pan with holes to roast; *first slitting
or cutting a notch in the skins, to preveut
their flying off. When done, serve them in j
dessert on a napkin, as hot as possible.
Some boil the chestnuts instead of roasting
them, as the skins are then cleaner, but the
nuts not quite so mealy; the better way
is to boil them in pleuty of water, and
when nearly done, take them out and roast
.hem.
CHICKENS. Having picked the chick-
ens, singe them well to remove all the hairs,
fee, which may remain on the skin; then
bruise the bone close to the foot, and draw
the strings from the thigh. Take out the
crop by a slit cut in the back of the neck;
then cut off the neck, leaving skin enough to
turn over the back. Cut off the veut, and
take out the inside, being careful not to break
the gall; break the back-bone and the two
bones leading to the pinions; wipe the chick-
en with a cloth, and put in a little pepper
and salt. If the chicken is to be trussed for
roasting, proceed as follows:—Turn the legs
close down to the apron and run a skewer
through; run another skewer in the joiut of
one wing through the body to the other wing;
and having washed the liver and gizzard,
place them in the pimons. For boiling, the
under part of the thigh must be cut, and the
legs placed under the apron, only letting the
ends be seen. Be sure to preserve the breast
very full.
CHICKEN BROTH. See Broth.
CHICKENS, BROILED OR GRILL-
ED. Pick and singe them nicely, wash
them clean, and dry them in a cloth; cut them
down the back, truss the legs and wings, as
for boiling; flatten them, and put them upon
a cold gridiron; when they become a little
dry, put them upon a plate, Imste them with
butter, and strew a little salt and pepper
over the inside, which part is laid first upon
the gridiron; baste them frequeutly, and let
them broil slowly for about half an hour.
Serve them very hot, with melted butter
poured over them, or pleuty of stewed mush-
rooms. The livers and gizzards may be
broiled with them, fastened iuto the wings,
or well seasoned, broiled, and served with
the chickens.
CHICKEN BAKED IN RICE. Cut
a chicken iuto joiuts as for a fricassee, sea-
son it well with pepper and salt, lay it iuto a
pudding dish lined with slices of ham or ba-
con, add a piut of veal gravy, and an onion
finely minced; fill up the dish w ith boiled
rice well pressed and piled as high as the
dish will hold, cover it witii a paste of flour
and water; bake it one hour, and before serv-
ing take off the paste.
CHICKENS BOILED. (1) Put the
chickens into a saucepan by themselves, and
boil a small one for fifteen, a larger one
tweuty minutes.
CHICKENS BOILED. (2) When they
are drawn and trussed, lay the chickens in
skim milk for about two hours; then put
them iuto cold water, cover them close, and
set them over a slow fire, and skim them
well. As soon as they have boiled slowly,
take them from the fire, and let them remain


CHI
CHI
49
In the water close covered for half an hour;
then drain and serve with white sauce.
CHICKEN, BROILED. Split a couple
of chickens, take out the inside and back-
bones, beat them with a wooden spoon, dip
them in clarified butter, and broil them, the
mside next the fire (which should be of
charcoal), and only turn them to color them.
When done, pour on them a sauce made as
follows :—Boil some stewed mushrooms with
beef stock and plain sauce, an equal quanti-
of each, until of a proper consistence;
vor it with lemon-juice and Cayenue pep-
per.
CHICKENS CHIRINGATE. Having
taken off the feet, beat the hreast bones of
your chickens flat without breaking the skin,
flour and fry them in butter; when of a nice
brown take all the fat from the pan, leaving
in the chickens, over which lay a poung! of
gravy beef cut in thin slices, another piece
of beef also cut thin, some mace, cloves,
pepper, an onion, a carrot, and a bunch of
sweet herbs: pour a quart of boiling water
over the whole, cover it quite close, and let
it stew; in a quarter of an hour take out
the chickens, but let the gravy continue
boiling, and when very rich strain it; then
put it again into the pan with a little red
wine and a few mushrooms; then put in the
chickens, and when they are hot, dish them
up, and pour the sauce over them; garnish
with slices of lemon and broiled ham.
CHICKENS CREME. (1) Parboil a
couple of young chickens, cut them in pieces,
and throw into warm water for half an hour;
then do them over the fire in a little fresh
butter, with salt, parsley, pepper, morels,
&c. sprinkle with flour, and dilute with a
glass of boiling water; cover the stewpan
close, and let it stand on hot ashes until the
water has soaked into the chicken, then add
half a pint of cream and a little butter. The
yolks of three eggs may be put in also, but
m that case, a small quantity of verjuice
should be put in before the cream.
CHICKENS CREME. (2) Stuff and
roast your chickens, and when you take them
from the spit, rub them with butter, cover
them with bread-crumbs, wrap them in
slices of bacon, and bake them a short time;
serve with well thickened cream-sauce.
CHICKEN CROQUETTES. (1) Re-
duce two spoonfuls of veloute or sauce tour-
nee, and add to it the yolks of four eggs;
put to this the white meat of a chicken
minced very small, and well mixed with the
sauce, take it out, and roll it' into balls about
the size of a walnut; roll them in, bread-
crumbs, giving them an elongated form,
then dip them in some well-beaten egg,
bread them again, and fry them of a light
brown.
CHICKEN CROQUETTES. (2) Mix
well into some very thick bechamelle and
some glaze the breast of a chicken, some
tongue, truffles and mushrooms all minced
very small; when quite cold roll them into
little balls about the size o( a nut, and hav-
ing beaten up three eggs throw the balls into
tHim. Take them out quickly and roll them
in bread-crumbs; dip them a second time
into the eggs, and cover them again with
bread-crumbs; fry them as other croquettes.
Lay fried parsley on a napkin in a dish,
place the croquettes on, and round it, and
serve.
CHICKEN CURRY. Take the skin
off, cut up a chicken, and roll each piece in
curry-powder and flour (mixed together a
spoonful of flour to half an ounce of curry)
fry two or three sliced onions in butter;
when of a light brown, put in the meat and
fry them together till the meat becomes
brown; then stew them together with a lit-
tle water for two or three hours. More
water may be added if i.oo thick.
CHICKEN CAPILOTADE. Put into
a stewpan a little butter and flour; add
mushrooms, parsley, and shallots cut small,
dilute these with equal quantites of stock, and
red or white wine. When the sauce is well
boiled, skim it; cut a roasted fowl in pieces,
and put it into this sauce; stew it gently
for a quarter of an hour. Add some gherkins
cut in thin slices.
CHICKEN, COLD FRIED. Cut the
chicken in quarters, and take off the skin,
rub it with an egg beaten up, and cover it
with grated bread seasoned with pepper,
salt, grated lemon-peel, and chopped parsley,
fry it in butter, thicken a little brown gravy
with flour and butter, add a little Cayenne,
lemon pickle, and mushroom catchup.
CHICKENS FRICASSEED.' Prepare
and cut up two chickens; put them in a
stewpan with some butter, parsley, a bay-
leaf, thyme, basil, two cloves, mushrooms,
and a slice of ham; let them stew till scarce-
ly any sauce remains, then add a little flour,
warm water, salt and pepper; stew it again
and reduce the sauce. When nearly done
put in the yolks of three eggs beaten up
with a little cream or milk; thicken it over
the fire, but do not let it boil; a small quan-
tity of lemon-juice or vinegar may be added.
Place the breasts and bones of the chickens
on a dish j lay the legs and wings over them*
5


CHI
CHI
50
and then pour the sauce over the whole;
garnish with the mushrooms. Take ofl' the
skins before you cut up the chtckens if )ou
wish the fricassee very white.
CHICKEN FRITTERS. Make a bat-
ter with four eggs, some new milk, and
rice-flour; to this, add a pint of cream, pow-
der-sugar, candied Icuton-peel cut small,
fresh lemon-peel grated, and the white parts
of a roasted chicken shred small; set all
these together on a stove, and stir well for
sometime; when done, take it off, roll Gut
the mixture, cut it into fritters, and fry
them; strew sugar on a dish, lay in the
fritters, strew sugar over, and serve them
hot.
CHICKENS IN A MINUTE. Cut a
chicken in pieces, and put it in a stewpan
with a little butter; add to it some mush-
rooms, parsley, sprinkle flour over, and
shake them; moisten it with stock or water,
and white wine; when it has twiled once,
take it from the fire and put in the yolks of
one or two eggs, and a little vinegar or
lemon-juice.
CHICKENS AND OYSTERS. Fill
your chickens with young oysters cut small,
truffles, parsley, and spices, and roast them.
Blanch about two dozen young oysters, and
toss them up in some melted butter, with
chopped herbs and olive oil. When they
have been on the fire a quarter of an hour,
add a little white wine and half a glass of
good stock, thicken it over the fire for an-
other quarter of an hour, and when the
chickens are ready to serve, pour the sauce
on them, and garnish the dish with oysters
and some lemon.
CHICKEN PANADA. Boil a chicken
in a quart of water until nearly done; then
skin it, cut off the y;hite meat, and pound
it with a little of the liquor it was boiled in
to a thick paste; season it with salt, nut-
meg, and lemon-peel; boil it up all together
for a few minutes.
CHICKEN AND HAM POTTED.
Season some pieces of chicken, with mace,
cloves, and pepper, and bake them for about
three hours in a close covered pan with
some water; then pound them quite small,
motstening either with melted butter, or the
ltquor they were baked in. Pound also
some ham, and put this with the chicken in
alternate layers, in potting pans, press them
down tight, and cover them with butter.
CHICKEN PULLED. (1) kalf roast
J chtcken or fowl, skin and pull off' in small
"akea all the white meat and the mfeatof the
legs, break the bones, and boil them In a
little water till the strength be drawn out,
strain it, and when it becomes cold skim
and put it into a sauce pan with a little mace,
white pepper, and salt; add a bit of butter
mixed with flour, and rather more than a
quarter of a pint of cream, then put in the
meat, and a little mushroom powder; before
serving, add the squeeze of a lemon.
CHICKEN PULLED. (2) Pick all the
white meat from the bones of a cold roasted
fowl, cut off the legs, and keep the back and
sidesmen in one. Score, and season the legs
and back with pepper and salt, and broil
them; warm up the white meat in some
sauce made of the bones boiled in a little
water, and which has been strained and
thickened with a piece of butter, mixed with
flour, a little milk, and the yolk of an egg
beaten up and seasoned with white pepper
and Ealt; serve the broiled back upon the
mince, and the legs at each end.
CHICKEN PIE. See Pie.
CHICKEN ROASTED. See Fowls.
CHICKENS, SCOTCH WAY. Cut
your chickens into quarters, put them into a
saucepan, with only just water enough to
cover them, a bunch of parsley, some chop-
ped parsley, and a little mace, cover them
close down, when it boils, add six eggs
well-beaten; when the chickens are done,
take out the parsley, and serve them in a
deep dish with the sauce.
CHICKENS AND TOMATA SAUCE.
Mix together, in a stewpan, a little butter,
salt, pepper, lemon-juice, and grated nut-
meg, a sufficient quantity to put in two chick-
ens; tie it in, and lay thin' slices of lemon
on the breast of the chickens, and lay them
in a stewpan lined with thin rashers of ba-
con; cover them with the same, and stew
them with ftre above and below for tbree
quarters of an hour; when done, drain them
in a cloth; untie them, and serve with toma-
ta sauce.
CHINA CHILO. Mince a pint basin
of undressed neck of mutton, or leg, and
some of the fat; put two onions, a lettuce,a
pint of green peas, a tea-spoonful of pepper,
four spoonfuls of water, and two or three
ounces of clarified butter, into a st .wpan
closely covered; simmer two hours, and serve
in the middle of a dish of boiled dry rice. If
Cayenue is approved, add a little.
, CHILI, OR CAYENNE WINE. Pound
and steep fifty fresh red Chilies, or a quar
ter of an ounce of Cayenue pepper, in hai


CHO
CHO
51
a pint of brandy, white wine, or claret, for
fourteen days. This is a " bonne bouche"
for the lovers of Cayenue, of which it takes
up a larger proportton of its flavor than of
its fire: which being instantly diffused, it is
a very useful auxiliary to warm and fmish
soup?, sauces, &c.
CHOCOLATE. According as you wish
to make this beverage, either with milk or
water, put a cup of one or other of these
liquids into a chocolate-pot, with one ounce
of cake chocolate. Some persons dissolve
the chocolate in a little water before they put
it into the milk. As soon as the milk.or
water begins to boil, mill it. When the
chocolate is dissolved, and I«gins to bubble,
take it off the fire, letting it stand near it
for a quarter of an hour; then mill it again
to make it frothy; afterwards serve it out
in cups. The chocolate must not be milled,
unless it is prepared with gream.
CHOCOLATE CREAM. See Creams,
CHOCOLATE FROTHED OR WHIP-
PED. Put half a pound of chocolate to a
glass of water over a small fire, stirring it
with a wooden spoon until perfectly dissolv-
ed; then take it off and add six yolks of
eggs, a pint of double cream, and three
quarters of a pound of powder-sugar. Pour
the whole into a pan, and when cold, whip
it up as directed. See Cream Frothed.
CHOCOLATE WINE. Take a pint of
Sherry, or a pint and a half of Port, four
ounces and a half of chocolate, six ounces of
fine sugar, and half an ounce of white starch,
or fine flour; mix, dissolve, and boil all these
together for about ten or twelve minutes.
But if your chocolate is made with sugar,
take double the quantity of chocolate, and
half the quantity of sugar.
CHOPS OR STEAKS. Those who
are nice about steaks, never attempt to have
them, except in weather which permits the
meat to be hung till it is tender, and give the
butcher some days' notice of their wish for
them. If, friendly reader, you wish to enter-
tain your mouth wtth a superlative beef-steak,
you must have the inside of the sirloin cut
into steaks. The next best steaks are those
cut from the middle of a rump, thathasbeen
killed at least four days in moderate weather,
and much longer in cold weather, when they
can be cut about six inches long, four inches
wtde, and half an inch thick: do not beat
them, which vulgar trick breaks the cells in
which the gravy of the meat is contained,
and it becomes dry and tasteless. N. B.—'
If your butcher sends steaks which are not
tender, we do not insist that you should
object to let him be beaten. Desire the
butcher to cut them of even thickness; if he
does not, divide the thicker from the thinuer
pieces, and give them time accordingly.
CHOWDER. Lay some slices cut from
the fat part of a belly-piece of pork, in a
deep stewpan, mix sliced onions with a
variety of sweet herbs, and lay them on the
pork. Bone and cut a fresh cod into thin
slices, and place them on the pork; then put
a layer of pork, on that a layer of biscuit,
then alternately the other materials until the
pan is nearly full, season with pepper and
salt, put in about a pint and a half of water,
lay a paste over the whole, cover the stewpan
very close, and let it stand, with ftre above
as well as below, for four hours; then skim
it well, and put it in a dish, pour a glass of
Madeira made hot over it, also some Jamaica
pepper, stewed mushrooms, truffles, and
oysters; brown the paste slightly, and lay it
over the whole.
CHOWDER For TEN or TWElVE.
Take of salt pork cut in thin slices, as much
as will make half a pint of fat, when tried,
which will do for two good sized cod or
haddock. Be careful not to burn the fat.
First, put your fat in the pot. Secondly,
cut your fish in as large pieces as will go
into the pot; then put a layer of fish on the
fat; pepper, salt and a few cloves, then a
layer of the slices of pork, strewed over with
onions cut fine; then a layer of shipbread
or hard crackers dipped in water; then your
thickening. Go on again with fish, &c. &n-
as above, till your pot is nearly full, then put
in water until you can just see it, and let it
stew slowly, so as not to break the fish.
After coming to a boil, it will be done in
twenty-five or thirty minutes. N. B.—Some
like potatoes cut in slices, which may be in-
troduced between each layer. Likewise
wine or cider, as you'fancy. QfJ" This
Receipt is according to the most approved
method, practised by fishing parttes in Bus-
ton harbor.
CHOWDER, CLAM, May be made in
the same way, substituting a sufficient
quantity of clams instead of cod, the heads
or hard leathery part being first cut off.
Many prefer clam chowder, nicely cooked,
to chowder made of cod, haddock, &c.
The pilgrims to Plymouth, it is said, could
cook this shell fish and lobsters in nearly
fifty different ways, and even as puddings,
pancakes, &c.
CHOUX. Put a pint of water into a
stewpan, with half a pound of fresh butter,
the rinds of two lemons grated, a quarter
of a pound of sugar, and a very little salt;


CO c
COD
52
as soon as the water begins to boil, add as
much flour as the liquor will imbibe; when
tite paate becomes very thick, keep stirring
with a spoon until quite done, then let it
cool. After that, break into it a sufficient
number of eggs to mnke the paste soft; tnk ing
care that it be firm enough to allow you to
work it up with the hand; when it may be
formed according to fancy. This paste may
be glazed and garnished either w ith almonds
or pistachio nuts; when baking the choux,
be careful to keep the oven tightly closed.
CITRON CHEESECAKES. Boil a
pint of cream, and when cold, mix with it
two eggs well-beaten; then boil them togeth-
er until they become a curd. Beat a few
blanched almonds in a mortar, with a little
orange-flower water; put them to the curd,
and add some Naples biscuits and green cit-
ron, chopped very small. Sweeten, and bake
in tins.
CITRON PUDDING. See Puddings.
CLARET PUFFS. Mix together, and
sweeten with pounded loaf sugar, a pint of
claret, and rather more than one of rich
cream; let it stand a night, and then whisk
it to a froth, whtch take off as it rises, and
put u|wn the back of a sieve to drain; heap
it upon a dish, sweeten some rtch cream,
and pour it round the froth, to make it float.
CLOVE, ESSENCE OF. Infuse a
drachm of oil of cloves in two ounces of
the strongest spirits of wine, apothecary's
measure.
CLOVE WATER. Mix a little cinua-
mon with the cloves, or the scent will be
too strong; allow half a score of cloves to a
quart of water; put in a good piece of
sugar; let them infuse some time over hot
embers, or in a warm place; then strain it
for use.
COBBLER. Name given to bread
toasted on one side only.
COCHINEAL PREPARED. Pound
an ounce of cochineal to a very fine powder,
pound also an ounce of cream of tartar, and
two drachms of alum; put these ingredients
into a saucepan with half a pint of water;
when it boils take it from the fire, and let
it cool; pour it off into a bottle, as free from
sediment as possible, and set it by for use.
COCOA. Put into a saucepan one ounce
of good cocoa and one quart of water; cover
it, and when it boils, set it by the side of the
fire to simmer for two hours. It is some-
times made in a larger quantity, poured
from the sediment, and boiled up as it is re
quired.
COCOA-NUT SWEETMEAT. (1)
Cut the nut out of the shell, pare it carefully,
and throw it into cold water; then grate it,
and boil it in clarified sugar, (a pound to each
|xmnd of the cocoa-nut) until quite thick;
stir it frequently to prevent its burning.
Then pour tt on a well buttered dish or mar-
ble slab, and cut it into whatever forms you
th ink proper.
COCOA-NUT SWEETMEAT. (2)
Proceed as above, but do not boil the sugar
so thick by a great deal; then stir into it
whilst hot the yolks of six eggs; this must
be served in jelly glasses.
COD. A cod-fish should be firm and
white, the gills red, and the eye lively; a
fine fish is very tlyck about the neck; if the
flesh is at all flabby it is not good. Cod is
in its prime during the months of October
and November, if the weather be cold; from
the latter end of March to May, cod is also
very fine. The length of time it requires
for boiling deliends on the size of the fish,
which varies from one pound to twenty; a
small fish, about two or three pounds weight
will be sufftciently boiled in a quarter of an
hour or twenty minutes after the water boils.
Prepare a cod for dressing in the following
manuer:—empty and wash it thoroughly,
scrape off all the scales, cut open the beO^
and wash and dry it well, rub a little salt
inside, or lay it for an hour in strong brine.
The simple way of dressing it is as follows:—
Tie up the head, and put it into a fish-kettle,
with plenty of water and salt in it; boil it
gently, and serve it with oyster sauce. Lay
a napkin under the fish, and garnish with
slices of lemon, horse-radish, &c.
COD BAKED. (1) Soak a fine piece
of the middle of fresh cod in melted butter,
with parsley and sweet herbs shred very fine;
let tt stand over the fire for sometime, and.
then bake it. J,et it be of a good color.
COD BAKED. (2) Choose a fine large
cod, clean it well, and open the under part
to the bone, and put in a stuffing made with
beef suet, parsley, sweet herbs shred fine, an
egg, and seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg,
mace and grated lemon-peel; put this inside
the cod, sew it up, wrap it in a buttered pa-
per, and bake it; baste it well with melted
butter.
COD, TO CRIMP. Cut a fresh cod in-
to slices or steaks; lay them for three hours
in salt-and-water, and a glass of vinegar:
when they may be boiled, fried, or broiled


COF
COF
53
COD PIE. See Pie.
COD SOUNDS. This is the white skin
of the belly, and is reckoned a great delica-
cy, and may be etther boiled, broiled, or
fried. Previous to dressing either way, they
should be well soaked, washed, and boiled a
little.
COD SOUNDS, Botled wtth Gra-
vy, Scald them in hot water, and rub them
well with salt; blanch them, that is, take off
the blacked dirty skin, then set them on in
cold water, and let them simmer till they
begin to be tender; take them out, flour, and
broil them on the gridiron. In the mean-
time, take a little good gravy, a little mus-
tard, a little bit of butter rolled in flour, give
it a boil, season it with pepper and salt.
Lay the sounds in your dish, and pour the
sauce over them.
COD SOUNDS, BROILED. Let them
lie in boiling water till it is nearly cold, rub
them with salt, and pull off the black and
dirty skin, boil them in hot water, drain,
and dust them with flour, rub them over
with butter, season with white pepper and
salt, and broil them. Put a table-spoonful
of catchup, half a one of soy, and a little Cay-
enue, into melted butter, heat and pour it over
them.
COD SOUNDS, Roasted or Baked.
Wash and clean four or five cod sounds, and
boil them till nearly done in milk-and-water;
when cold, make a forcemeat of bread
crumbs; a piece of butter, salt, nutmeg,
white pepper, and some chopped oysters;
beat up the yolks of two eggs to bind it, lay
it over the sounds, roll them up, and fasten
with a small skewer, baste them with melted
butter, and roll them in finely grated bread
crumbs seasoned with pepper and salt; put
them on a tin in a Dutch oven, turn and
baste them with a feather dipped in melted
butter, and strew over bread crumbs as be-
fore; when done, and of a nice brown, serve
them with oyster sauce in the dish.
COD'S HEAD AND SHOULDERS,
to Botl. Wash it clean; tie it up, and
dry it with a cloth. Allow in the propor-
tion of every three measures of water, one of
salt; when it boils take off the scum; put
in the fish, and keep it botling very fast for
twenty-five or thirty minutes. Serve with
the roe and milt parboiled, cut into slices,
and fried, and garnish with curled parsley
and horse-radish. Sauces;—oyster, melted
butter, or anchovy butter.
COFFEE. The coffee-pot should'be
three parts full of boiling water; the coffee
is to be added a spoonful at a time, and well
stirred between each; then boil gently, still
stirring to prevent the mixture from botling
over as the coffee swells, and to force it into
combination with the water, this will be ef-
fected in a few minutes, after which, the
most gentle boiling must be kept up during
an hour. The coffee must then be removed
from the fire to settle, one or two spoonfuls
of cold water thrown in assists the clarifica-
tion, and precipitates the grounds. In about
an hour, or as soon as the liquor has become
clear, it is to be poured into another vessel,
taking care not to disturb the sediment.
Coffee made in this manuer will be of the
finest flavor, and may be kept three days
in summer, and four or five in winter; when
ordered for use, it only requires heating in
the coffee-pot, and may be served up at two
minutes' notice. Coffee . should never be
roasted but at the precise time of its being
used, and then it should be watched with
the greatest cave, and made of a gold color
rather than a brown one; above all, take care
not to burn it, for a very few grains burnt
will be sufficient to communicate a Jiitter
and rancid taste to several pounds of coffee.
It is the best way to roast it in a roaster,
(over a charcoal fire), which turns with the
hand, as by that means it is not forgot, which
often is the case when on a spit Before the
fire.
COFFEE, French method of
prepartng. 1st. Let your coffee be dry,
not in the least mouldy or damaged.—2d.
Divide the quantity that is to be roasted into
two parts.—3d. Roast the first part in a
coffee-roaster, the handle of which must be
kept constantly turning until the coffee be-
comes the color of dried almonds or bread-
raspings, and has lost one eighth of ita
weight.—4th. Roast the second part until
it assumes the fine brown color of chestnuts,
and has lost one fifth of its weight.—5th.
Mix the two parts together, and grind them
in a coffee mill.—6th. Do not roast or make
your coffee until the day it is wanted.—7th.
To two ounces of ground coffee, put four
cups of cold water. Draw off this infusion,
and put it aside.—8th. Put to the coffee
which remains in the biggin, three cups of
boiling water, then drain it off and add thia
infusion to that which has been put aside.
By this method you obtain three cups more.
When your coffee is wanted, heat it quickly
in a silver coffee-pot, taking care not to let
it boil, that the perfume may not be lost by
undergoing any evaporation. Then pour tt
into cups, which each person may sweeten
according to his taste. Particular care
should be taken not to make coffee in a tin
vessel; it should be made either in a China
vessel, or one of Delft ware, or in one of


COL
cou
54
liber. For a long time, the tin biggins, in-
veuted by Monsienr de Belloy, were made
use of; but some person has smce improved
upon his plan, by making them of silver or
porcelain, which are found to be much better.
COFFEE CREAM. (1) Mix three
cups of good coffee with one piut of cream,
and sugar according to taste; boil them to-
gether, and reduce them about one-third;
observe that the coffee must be done as if it
was for drinking alone, and settled very clear,
before you mix it with the cream.
COFFEE CREAM. (2) Boil a calf's
foot in water till it wastes to a piut of jelly;
clear off the sedimeut and fat. Make a tea-
cup of very strong coffee; clear it with a
bit of isinglass, to be perfectly bright; pour
it to the jelly, and add a piut of very good
cream, and as much fine Lisbon sugar as is
pleasaut; give one boil up, and pour iuto
the dish. It should jelly, but not be stiff.
Observe that your coffee be fresh.
COLLOPS. Cut some veal cutlets; fry
them a good brown, but not too much; take
some good gravy, thicken it with a little
flour, boil it a few minutes; add Cayenue,
catchup, truffles, morels, salt, mushrooms
pickled, grated lemon-peel; simmer this up,
just heat the collops through, add what gravy
came from them, but do not let them boil, or
they will be hard; add forcemeat balls, hard
yolk of eggs; lay round little slices of ba-
con, notched and toasted, and sliced lemon.
COLLOPS, MINCED. Cut two
pounds of lean tender beef iuto thin slices—
it is best taken from off the rump, or round;
mince it very finely; brown two ounces of
butter in a "frying-pan, dredging it with a
little flour, then add the minced meat, and
keep beating it with a beater till of a nice
brown color. Have ready some highly-sea-
soned beef gravy, which, with the minced
collops, put iuto a saucepan, and let it stew
half an hour; and just before serving, put a
table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, and, if
liked, some green pickles. Beef suet is as
often used as butter to fry the collops in.
COLLOPS, RUSSIAN. Break four eggs
iuto a stewpan, and mix with them two
spoonfuls of flour, then half a glass of good
cream, a spoonful of warm butter, and a
grain of salt; when these are well mixed to-
gether, pour some of it iuto a large frying-pan,
and fry it of a light color on both sides;
then take it out, and fry more in the same
way, like pancakes, uutil you have a dozen
very thin, cut each in half, and trim them
iuto oblong pieces all the same size: lay on
each some quenelle, minced fowl or game,
as if for croquettes; wrap the fried batter
round it, wetting the edges, that they may
adhere properly, with a little of the batter,
having reserved some for the purpose; then
have ready beaten, six eggs and a little salt,
mask them with bread-crumbs, fry them of a
good color, and serve them quickly.
COLLOPS, SCOTCH. Cut veal cut-
lets (taken from the fillet) iuto small thin
pieces, and fry them in a little boiling lard
till of a light brown color. Drain them dry,
put them iuto a stewpan, add cullis, stewed
mushrooms, some blanched truffles, morels,
pieces of artichoke bottoms, some slices of
throat sweetbreads, and egg balls. Let
them simmer over a slow fire till tender,
season to the palate, and serve them with
rashers of broiled bacon round them.
COLD MEAT BROILED, WITH
Poached Eggs. The inside of a sirloin
of beef is best for this dish, or a leg of mut-
ton. Cut the slices of even and equal thick-
ness, and broil and brown them carefully
and slightly over a clear smart fire, or in a
Dutch oven; give those slices most fire that
are least done; lay them in a dish before the
fire to keep hot, while you poach the eggs,
and mash potatoes.
COLORING FOR JELLIES, Cakes,
&c. For a beautiful red, boil fifteen grains
of cochineal in the finest powder, with a
drachm and a half of cream of tartar, in
half a piut of water very slowly, half an
hour. Add, in boiling, a bit of alum the
size of a pea. Or use beet-root sliced, and
some liquor poured over. For white, use
almonds finely powdered with a little drop
of water; or use cream. For yellow, yolks
of eggs, or a bit of saffron steeped in the li-
quor, and squeezed. For green, pound
spinach-leaves, or beet-leaves, express the
juice, and boil a tea-cupful in a saucepan
of water, to take off the rawness.
CONSOMME. Take eight or ten
pounds of beef-steaks, eight old hens, two
young ones, and four knuckles of veal; put
these iuto a large pot, and fill it with strong
broth; skim it well, cooling it three or four
times to make the scum rise, after which let
it boil geutly; put iuto the pot carrots, tur-
nips, onions, and three cloves. When your
meat is sufficieutly done, pass the liquor
through a fine napkin or silk sieve, that it
may be very clear. No salt need be put in
if strong broth be used.
COUGLAUFFLE, GERMAN. Take
three pounds of flour, an ounce and a half
of yeast, an ounce of fine salt, a quarter of a
pound of sugar, twelve eggs, the yolks of


CO u
CR A
55
twelve more, two pounds of fresh butter,
three glasses of milk, and a quarter of a
pound of sweet almonds. Proceed with
these materials in the following manuer:—
put the butter (having slightly warmed half
a pound of it), into a glazed pan, and with
a large wooden spoon work it up for six or
seven minutes; then put in two whole eggs,
and stir it two minutes; then add three yolks,
and stir again two minutes; in this manuer
put in the whole number of eggs and yolks;
which will produce a kind of smooth cream.
Then by degrees mix in two pounds of the
flour, dissolve the yeast in a glass of warm
milk, strain it through a napkin, stir this in
well, with another half pound of flour;
make a hollow in the paste, in which put
the salt and sugar in powder; afterwards
pour on it a glass of hot milk, and mix the
whole together with the remainder of the
flour; continue to work it up for some min-
utes after the whole ingredients are put in,
adding a small quantity of warm milk, which
will render it smooth. Have a mould ready,
butter it, and lay the sweet almonds, each
cut in half, over the bottom of the mould, in
forms, on which pour the paste carefully,
and in small quantities, so as not \o derange
the almonds. Place your mould m a warm,
but not a hot place, that the cake may rise
properly; and when that operation has taken
place, put it into a moderate oven, which
should be kept closed; in an hour's time
look at the Couglaujffle, and if it be flexible,
and of a light color, let it remain thirty or
forty minutes longer; but if it be firm and
red it is sufftciently done; when taken from
the mould, put it mto the oven again for a
few minutes.
COUGLAUFFLES, SMALL. To
make a dozen small couglauffles, take three
quarters of a pound of flour, three drachms
of yeast, two of salt, two whole eggs, three
yolks, two ounces of sugar, a little cream,
and half a pound of butter. The prepara-
tion is made the same as the German Cou-
glaujffle. When the paste is made, divide
it into twelve equal parts; butter a dozen
small biscuit moulds, and fill each with your
preparation, and let them stand: when risen
so as to ftll the moulds, put them into a
brisk oven, and take them out as soon as
they are of a 1 ight color.
COUQUES. Put into a saucepan the
yolks of sixteen eggs, the rinds of two lem-
ons, half an ounce of salt, and two ounces
of sugar; on these pour a pint of boiling
cream, stirring it quick; set it on the fire,
but do not let it boil, strain it through a
bolting, and then let it cool; take two
pounds of flour, and make a quarter of it
into leaven with half an ounce of yeast and
a little warm water, keep tt rather moist,
and put it into a warm place to rise: in the
meantime, make the remainder of the flour
into a paste, with the cream and a quarter
of a pound of butter, knead it up five or six
times; then put in the leaven, and knead it
again twice; tie it up in a floured cloth, and
set it in a warm place. In about two hours
take it out, and cut the paste in pieces the
size of an egg, form them to that shape, and
lay them on a baking tin, and leave them
for half an hour to rise, then gild and
bake them in a hot oven; when done, open
each on one side, take out a little of the
crumb, in the place of which put a bit of
butter worked up with a little salt, and
serve them.
COURT BOUILLON. Cut a proper
quantity of carrots, onions, celery, and tur-
nips, and put them into a saucepan with
butter, parsley, garlic, thyme, basil, salt, a
mignonette and cloves; sweat them over a
gentle fire; add white wine, vinegar or
verjuice; boil, and then strain it, and serve
it with whatever you may require it for.
It is generally used fcr fish.
COURT BOUILLON for all
sorts of Fresh Water Ftsh. Put
some water into a fish-kettle, with a quart
of white wine, a slice of butter, salt, pepper,
a large bunch of parsley and young onions, a
clove of garlic, thyme, bay-leaves, and basil
all tied together, some sliced onions and
some carrots; boil the fish in this court
bouillon, (which will serve for several times)
and do not scale it; when the fish will ad-
mit of it, take care to boil it wrapped in a
napkin, which makes it more easy to take
out without danger of breaking.
COW-HEEL, In the hands of a skilful
cook, will furnish several good meals; when
boiled tender, cut it into handsome pieces,
egg and bread-crumb them, and fry them a
light brown ; lay them round a dish, and put
in the middle of it sliced onions fried, or the
accompaniments ordered for tripe. The
liquor they were boiled in will make
soups.
CRACKNELS. Mix a quart of flour,
half a nutmeg grated, the yolks of four eggs
beaten, with four spoonfuls of rosewater, into
a stiff paste, with cold water; then rub in a
pound of butter, and make into a cracknel
shape; put them into a kettle of boiling
water, and boil them till they swim; then
take them out, and put them into cold water;
when hardened, lay them out to dry, and
bake them on tin plates.


CRE
CRE
56
CRACKNELS, small soft. Blanch
half a pound of sweet almonds, and pound
them to a fme paste, adding to them by de-
grees six eggs; when thoroughly pounded,
pour on them a pound of powder-sugar, the
same of butter, and tite rinds of two lemons
grated; beat up these ingredients in the
mcrtar: put a pound of flour on a slab, and
having .|wured tho almond paste on it, knead
them together until they are well incorporat-
ed; roll it out, and cut the cracknels into
such forms as you mayi think proper, rub
them with yolk of egg, and strew over them
powder-sugar or cinuamon: then lay them
on a buttered tin, and bake them in a mode-
rate oven, taking great care that they do not
burn. When done, put them into glasses,
and if preserved in a dry place they are the
better for keeping.
CRANBERRIES, Dtfferent ways
of dresstng. For pies and puddings,
with a good deal of sugar. Stewed in a
jar, with the same; this way they eat well
with bread, and are very wholesome. Thus
done, pressed, and strained, the juice makes
a fine drink for people in fevers.
CREAM, ALMOND. Blanch and
pound to a paste, with rose water, six
ounces of almonds, mix them with a pint
and a half of cream which has been boiled
with the peel of a small lemon; add two
well-beaten eggs, and stir the whole over
the fire till it be thick, taking care not to
allow it to boil; sweeten it, and when near-
ly cold, stir in a table-spoonful of orange-
flower or rose water
CREAM, APPLE. (1) Boil twelve
large apples in water till soft, take off the
peel, and press the pulp through a hair sieve
upon half a pound of pounded loaf sugar;
whip the whites of two eggs, add them to
the apples, and beat all together till it be-
comes very stiff, and looks quite white.
Serve it heaped up on a dish.
CREAM, APPLE. (2) Peel and core
five large apples; boil them in a little water,
till soft enough to press through a sieve;
sweeten, and beat with them the whisked
whites of five eggs. Serve it with cream
poured round it.
CREAM, ARROW-ROOT. Mix a ta.-
ble-spoonful of arrow-root with a tea-cupful
of cold water; let it settle, and pour the wa-
ter off. Sweeten and boil a quart of milk
with the peel of a lemon and some cinuamon;
ptck tnem out, and pour it boiling upon the
arrow-root, stirring it well and frequently
till tt be cold. Serve it in a glass or china
dish, with or without grated nutmeg on the
top. It may be eaten with any preserved
fruit, or fruit tarts.
CREAM, BACCHIC. Put a pint and a
half of white wine, with some lemon-peel,
coriander seed, a bit of cinuamon, and three
ounces of sugar, into a stewpan, and let
them boil a quarter of an hour; then mix
half a tea-spoonful of flour with the yolks of
six eggs in another stewpan, and sttr in by
degrees the other previously boiled ingre-
dients. When about half cold, strain the
whole through a sieve and put it in a dish
in hot water, over the fire, till the cream is
set; lastly, take it out, and put it in a cool
place till ready to serve.
CREAM, BARLEY. Boil a small quan-
tity of pearl barley in milk and water, till
tender, strain off the liquor, and put the
barley into a quart of cream, to boil a little.
Then take the whites of five eggs and the
yolk of one, beat them with one spoonful of
flour, and two of orange-flower water. Take
the cream from the fire, mix the eggs in by
degrees, and set it over the fire again to
thicken. Sweeten it, and pour into cups or
glasses for use.
CREAM, BURNT. Boil a pint of cream
with the peel of a lemon, sweeten it with
pounded loaf sugar; beat, with the yolks of
six, and whites of four eggs, one table-spoon-
ful of flour, the same of orange-flower water
and of ratafia; strain the cream, and when
nearly cold, mix it with the eggs and other
things; stir it over the fire till it becomes as
thick as a custard; put it into the dish it is
to be served in. Boil with a little water
some pounded loaf sugar, till it turn brown,
but do not stir it till taken off the fire; by
degrees pour it in figures over the top of the
cream. It may be eaten hot or cold.
CREAM CAKES. See Cakes.
CREAM, CHOCOLATE. (1) Take
a pint of milk, a gill of cream, the yolks of
three eggs, and five ounces of powder sugar,
mix these mgredients together, set them on
the fire, stir it constantly, and let it boil till
reduced to a quarter; then add two ounces
of grated chocolate ; and having boiled a lit.
tie longer, strain it, and let it cool. Serve
it cold.
CREAM, CHOCOLATE. (2) Take
about half a cake of chocolate, bruise it to
pieces, put it in a stewpan with a little milk,
and stir it over a gentle fire till it looks
smooth and thick; then add a little more
milk, and stir it again over the fire, con-
tinue thls till it takes the thickness of cretun;


CRE
CRE
57
sweeten tt to your palate with clarified su-
gar; stir in a little thick cream with a very
little isinglass, rub it through the tammy,
and set it in the mould.
CREAM CUSTARD. See Custard.
CREAM FRITTERS. Mix a handful
of flour, with three whole eggs, and the yolks
of six, four pounded macaroons, some dried
orange-flowers, browned in sugar, a little
candied lemon-peel chopped very fine, half
a pint of cream, half a pint of milk, and a
lump of sugar; boil the whole over a gentle
fire for a quarter of an hour, till the cream
turns to a thick paste; then let it cool in a
dish well floured, shaking flour all over it.
When cold, cut the paste into small pieces,
roll them in your hands till they become
round, and fry them of a good color; when
you serve them, powder them all over with
sugar.
CREAM FROTH. Put a pint of fresh
double cream into a stone pan, with half a
pound of powder sugar, a pinch of gum
dragon, a little crisped orange-flower, and
three drops of cedrat essence; when the su-
gar is dissolved, place the pan in another, in
which is three pounds of ice beaten up with
saltpetre; whip the cream in the usual man-
ner, taking off the froth as it rises with a
skimmer, lay it gently on a sieve over a
pan; if the cream does not froth properly,
add the whites of two eitgs. This cream is
usually served in large stlver or gilt goblets,
and should be prepared two or three hours
before it is wanted.
CREAM FOR FRUIT TARTS. Boil
a stick of cinuamon, two or three peach
leaves, or a few bruised bitter almonds, in a
quart of milk; strain, sweeten, and mix it,
when cool, with three or four well-beaten
eggs; stir it constantly over the fire till it
thickens. It may be eaten with stewed
apples, prunes, damsons, or any other fruit.
CREAM, IMPERIAL. Boil a quart of
cream with the thin rind of a lemon; then
stir it till nearly cold; have ready in a
dish or bowl that you are to serve in,
the juice of three lemons strained, with as
much sugar as will sweeten the cream, which
pour into the dish from a large teapot, hold-
mg it high, and moving it about to mix with
the juice. It should be made at least six
hours before it is served, and will be still
better if a day.
CREAM ITALIAN. (1) Boil a pint and
A half of milk in a stewpan, then add to it
the peel of a young lemon, some coriander
seed, a bit of cinuamon, rather more than
half a quarter of a pound of sugar, and two
or three grains of salt; let it boil till half is
consumed; then let it stand to cool, and
have ready in another stewpan a little flour,
beat up with the yolks of six eggs; stir it
by degrees into the cream; strain it through
a sieve, and put it in the dish for table,
placing the dish in some hot water over the
lire till the cream is set. Before serving,
brown with a salamander.
CREAM ITALIAN. (2) Put a gill of
good fresh cream, two eggs, three spoonfuls
of powder-sugar, and a little orange-flower
water, into a pan, and whip them up togeth-
er; and when the cream is sufficiently thick,
put it into a deep dish, with plenty of pow-
der-sugar; set it on hot ashes, cover it, and
lay hot ashes on the top, which must be
renewed until the cream is done enough;
then let it cool, and serve it.
CREAM, LEMON. Steep the thinly-
pared rinds of four large lemons in a pint of
water for twelve hours; strain, and dissolve
in it three-quarters of a pound of fine loaf
sugar, add the juice of the lemons strained,
and the well-beaten whites of seven, and the
yolk of one egg. Boil it over a slow fire,
stirring it constantly one way, till it is like
a thick cream; pour it into a glass or china
dish.
CREAM, ORANGE. (1) Squeeze and
strain the juice of eleven oranges, sweeten
it well with pounded loaf sugar, stir tt over
a slow ftre till the sugar be dissolved, and
take off the scum as it rises; when cold,
mix it with the well-beaten yolks of twelve
eggs, to which a pint of cream has been
added; sttr it again over the fire till thick.
Serve in a glass dish or custard-cups.
CREAM, ORANGE. (2) Sweeten,
with pounded loaf sugar, a quart of good
cream; mix with it a small wine-glass of
orange-flower water, the grated rmd and
the juice of a Seville orange; whisk it till
quite thick; soak some macaroons in white
wine, and pile them in the middle of a glass
or china dish, and heap the whipped cream
over them as high as possible. Some hours
after, ornament it with slices of green citron
cut into straws, and stuck into the cream.
CREAM, RATAFIA, In a tea-cupful
of thin cream boil two or three large Jaurel,
or young peach leaves; when it has boiled
three or four minutes, strain, and mix with
it a pint of rich sweet cream; add three well-
beaten whites of eggs, and sweeten it with
pounded loaf sugar. Put it into a saucepan,
and stir it gently one way ovai a slow fire
till it be thtck; pour it mto a china dish.


CRE
CRE
58
and when quite cold, ornament it with sweet-
meats cut out like flowers; or strew over
the top harlequin comfits.
CREAM, RASPBERRY. (1) Mix a
little pounded loaf sugar with a pint and a
half of good cream, about a tea-cupful of
raspberry jelly, the grated rind of one, and
the juice of half a lemon; beat it well to-
gether, and, with a syllabub mill, mill it
slowly for half an hour, or till it be thick and
solid. Put it into a glass dish, or serve it in
custard glasses.
CREAM, RASPBERRY. (2) Put six
ounces of raspberry jam to a quart of cream,
pulp it through a lawn sieve, mix it with the
juice of a lemon and a little sugar, and
whisk it till thick. Serve it in a dish or
glasses. Strawberry cream may be made
m the same way. For common use, substi-
tute good milk for the cream.
CREAM, RED CURRANT. (1) Pick
the currants from the stalks, put them into a
jar closely covered, and stand it in a pan
of cold water; let it boil for two hours, strain
the juice through a sieve, and sweeten it
well with pounded loaf sugar. When cold,
add a quart of cream to a pintof juice, and
beat it with a whisk till thick. Serve in a
deep glass dish.
CREAM, RED CURRANT. (2)
Squeeze three-quarters of a pint of juice
from red currants when full ripe, add to it
rather more than a quarter of a pound of
pounded loaf sugar, and the juice of one
lemon; stir it into a pint and a half of cream,
and whisk it till quite thick.
CREAM ROSE AT. Beat to a stiff
froth the whites of four eggs; sweeten and
boil a pint of good milk, drop about three
table-spoonfuls of the froth into it, turn it
over once or twice with the spoon, take it
out, and put it upon the back of a lawn sieve
placed over a large plate; repeat this till it
is all done; add to the milk another half
pint, with a little more sugar, and mix it
with the beaten yolks of the eggs; stir it
over the fire till thick; put it into a basin,
and stir now and then till nearly cold; add
a table-spoonful of rose water, and one of
brandy. Serve it in a glass dish, and lay
the whites of the eggs over the top at equal
distances. Cut citron and candied orange-
peel into straws, and put them over the
whites of the eggs, or strew over them color-
ed comftts.
CREAM OF RICE SOUP. Mix one
or two table-spoonfuls of sifted flour of rice
with a little good stock, rather cold than
hot; add this to some boiling stock, ami
keep stirring till it boils; and let it boil till
sufficiently thick. The flour of rice may be
made as follows:—Wash in several waters
a pound of rice; wipe it in a clean towel,
and when perfectly dry pound and sift it
through a sieve.
CREAM, SNOW. Take a pint of fresh
cream, and mix with it eight spoonfuls of
powder-sugar, the whites of two eggs, and
a spoonful of orange-flower water, or any
other aromatic ingredient you like better;
whip it, and remove the froth or snow in
the usual way. This cream may be colored
according to your fancy, with saffron, car-
mine, or indigo.
CREAM, SOLID. Squeeze the juice
of a large lemon upon three or four table-
spoonfuls of pounded loaf sugar, add two
table-spoonfuls of brandy, and one pint of
cream; pour it from one cup into another,
till it be sufficiently thick.
CREAM, SPANISH. Boil, in half a
pint of water, half an ounce of isinglass, till
dissolved; strain, and mix it with a quart
of cream or good milk; if cream, not so
much isinglass; stir it over the fire till it
come to a boil; when a little cooled, add
gradually the beaten yolks of six eggs, and a
glass of white wine. Pour it into a deep
dish, sweeten with pounded loaf sugar, stir
it till cold, and then put it into a shape.
CREAM, STONE. Put three table-
spoonfuls of lemon-juice, and the grated peel
of one, some preserved apricots, or any other
sweetmeat, into a glass or China dish. Boil
a quarter of an ounce of isinglass in a little
water, till dissolved; add it to a pint of cream,
sweetened well with pounded loaf sugar;
boil it, and stir it all the time; pour it into
a jug, stir it now and then till milk-warm,
then pour it over the sweetmeat round and
round. It may be made the day before
being served.
CREAM, SWISS. (1) Boil the grated
peel of a large lemon, and three-quarters of
a pound of pounded loaf sugar, in a pint of
cream; squeeze the juice of the lemon upon
a table-spoonful of flour, work it well togeth-
er, and gradually add to it the boiling cream,
and heat it all over the'fire; pour it into a
basin, and when nearly cold, put it into a
glass or China dish, and garnish it with
candied orange-peel, and citron cut into
straws. This cream requires to be constant-
ly stirred till it is put into the dish in which
it is to be served.
CREAM, SWISS. (2) Whisk upon


CRO
CRU
59
a hot plate, the yolks of eight eggs, half a
pound of finely-pounded sugar, the grated
rind of a lemon, and half a pint of light
French or Rhenish white wine, and send it
warm to tabic.
CREAM TART. See Tart.
CREAM, WHIPPED. Sweeten, with
pounded loaf sugar, a quart of cream, and
add to it a lump of sugar which has been
rubbed upon the peel of two fine lemons or
bitter oranges; or flavor it with orange-
flower water, a little essence of roses, the
juice of ripe strawberries, or of any other
fruit. Whisk the cream well in a large pan,
and as the froth rises, take it off, and lay it
upon a sieve placed over another pan, and
return the cream which drains from the froth,
till all is whisked, then heap it upon a dish,
or put it into glasses. Garnish with thinly-
pared citron, or cedrat cut into small leaves,
or into any fanciful shape. To color the
rose cream, or to heighten that of strawber-
ry, a little carmine or lake may be mixed
with the cream, which may be iced when
made.
CREAM, WHITE LEMON. (1) Rub,
with some lumps of loaf sugar, the rinds of
six lemons, and grate off the remainder;
squeeze and strain the juice, and add the
grated peel and sugar, with three-quarters
of a pound of pounded loaf sugar ; put to this
a quart of rich cream, and whisk it till very
thick. The following day, soak five or six
sponge biscuits in white wine, and put over
them the cream.
CREAM, WHITE LEMON. (2) Boil
the thin peel of two lemons in a pint of
cream; strain, and thicken it with the well-
beaten yolks of three, and whites of four
eggs; sweeten it with pounded loaf sugar,
stir it till nearly cold, and put it into
glasses.
CROQUANTE OF PASTE. Roll out
paste, about the etghth of an inch thick;
rub over a plain mould with a little fresh
butter; lay on the paste very even, and
equally thin on both-stdes; pare it round the
rim; then with a small penknife cut out
small pieces, as fancy may direct, such as
diamonds, stars, circles, sprigs, &c.; or use
a small tin cutter of any shape: let it lie to
dry sometime, and bake it a few minutes in
a slack oven, of a light color: remove it
from the mould, and place it over a tart, or
any other dish of small pastry.
CROQUE. These are large pieces of
ornamental confectionary, formed of various
materials, as gimblettes, croquignoleStgen-
oises, 8.C, or of oranges, cut into quarters,
chestnuts, green nuts, &c., arranged with-
in moulds according to fancy, and cemented
together with boiled sugar.
CROQUETS. Pound, in a marble
mortar, cold veal and fowl, with a little suet,
some chopped lemon-peel, lemon thyme,
chives, and parsley. Season with nutmeg,
pepper, and salt; mix all well together, and
add the yolk of an egg well-beaten; roll it
into balls, and dip them into an egg beaten
up, then sift bread crumbs over them, and
fry them in butter.
CROQUETTES OF BOILED MEAT.
Mince some boiled meat very small; add to
it some sausage-meat, mashed potatoes,
crumbs of bread, soaked in milk, and sweet
herbs; make them into a paste, and form i*
into little balls; roll them in very fine rasp-
ings, and fry them of a nice color. Serve
them with sauce piquante.
CROQUETS OF SWEETBREADS.
Mince some cold sweetbreads, which have
been dressed, and boil them in a sauce ve-
loute; when quite cold, form them into balls,
or into rolls, about two inches long; fry and
serve them with fried parsley in the mtddle.
Or, make the croquet meat into a rissole.
Roll out a piece of thin puff paste, enclose
the meat in it, brush it over with a beaten
egg, and strew over it grated bread; fry it
of a light brown color.
CRUMPETS. (1) Make a pint of
warm milk, a quarter of a pint of yeast broth,
strained into a strong batter, with a sufficient
quantity of flour; cover, and set it in a
warm place to rise; then add a quarter of
a pint of warm milk, an ounce of butter
worked up in a little flour, but only flour
enough to prevent the batter from being too
thin; in a quarter of an hour have the iron
rings ready on a plate of iron over a stove;
pour the batter into these rings, and bake
them.
CRUMPETS, OR PIKELETS. (2)
Set a sponge as for bread, excepting that
half milk and half water must be used; and
to every half-quartern of flour, two eggs
must be added; beat the eggs thoroughly.
Bake them in rings as usual.
CRUST, FOR VENISON PASTY.
Work into a paste with warm water, two
pounds and a half of butter, a peck of line
flour, and four eggs; work it smooth, and
to a good consistence. The paste should be
put round the inside, but not at the bottom
of the dish; let the cover be tolerably thick,
to bear the long^tontinuance in the oven.


cue
CUL
GO
CRUST, RAISED. (1) Melt, in one
pint of water, one pound of fresh lard; weigh
four pounds of flour, put it into a basin, and
when the water and lard is hot, with a horn
spoon stir it by degrees amongst the flour.
When well mixed, work it with the hands
till it is a stiff paste, when it is ftt for use.
CRUST, RAISED. (2) Put into a
saucepan one pint and a half of water, four
pounds of flour, and four ounces and a half
of butter; stir it till it is a thick itaste, take
it out, and add the yolks of three or lour
beaten eggs; work it well together, roll it
out rather more than half an inch thick;
cut out the top and bottom, and a long piece
of proper depth for the sides. Brush round
the bottom with well-beaten whites of eggs;
set on the sides, keeping the paste rather
within the edge of the bottom; pinch tt all
round, to make the pieces adhere, then fill
the pie, and brush round the upper sides of
the crust and the outer edges of the cover
with egg; lay on the cover, pinch it round
neatly, and ornament it according to fancy
with leaves, festoons, or chains of rings
made of the paste.
CRUST SHORT. (1) Pound, sift,
and dry two ounces of white sugar; then
mix it with a fwund of well dried flour, rub-
.bing into it, so fine as not to be seen, three
ounces of butter; then put the yolks of'two
eggs into some cream, and mix the w hole
into a smooth paste; roll it out thin, and
bake it in a moderate oven.
CRUST SHORT, not sweet, but
rtch. (2) Mix into a stifiish paste, us-
ing as little water as possible, six ounces of
butter, with eight ounces of fine flour, (rub-
bing the butter well into the flour, before
mixing it with the water) beat it well, and
roll it thin. Tiiis crust is proper as well as
the above, for tarts of fresh or preserved
fruits. Let it bake in a moderate oven.
CUCUMBERS STEWED. Peel and
cat cucumbers in quarters, take out the seeds,
and lay them on a cloth to drain oft' the wa-
ter: when they are dry, flour and fry them
in fresh butter; let the butter be quite hot
before you put in the cucumbers; fry them
till they are brown, then take them out with
an egg-slice, and lay them on a sieve to
drain the fat from them (some cooks fry
sliced omons, or some small button onions,
with them, till they are a delicate light
brown color, drain them from the fat, and
then put them into a stewpan with as much
gravy as will cover tlvem): stew slowly till
they are tender; take out the cucumber
a slice, thicken the gravy with Soui i
■cd Ufster, give it a boil uj^, season it wlth \
pepper and salt, and put in the cucumbers.,
as soon as they are warm, they are ready.
The above, rubbed through a tamis, or fine
sieve, will be entitled to be called " cucum-
ber sauce." See Cucumber Vinegar. This
is a very favorite sauce with lamb or mutton-
cutlets, stewed rump-steaks, &c. &c.: when
made for the latter, a third part of sliced
onion is sometimes fried with the cucumbet.
CUCUMBERS AND ONIONS, SLIC-
ED. Cut full-grown cucumliers into slices
about a quarter of an mch thick, and slice
some onions thin; then lay them into a dish
together, and strew salt over them; cover
them with another dish, and let them re-
main for twenty-four hours. Put them in-
to a cullender to drain, then into a large jar,
and pour over them boiled vinegar, three
successive days; the last time of boiling the
vinegar add pepper and ginger, pour it over
them hot, and closely cover them when cold.
. CUCUMBER MANGOES. Cut a long
narrow piece out of the sides of large Tur-
key cucumbers, scoop out the seeds, and
with a part of them mix some mustard seed,
shred garlic, and grated horse-radish; stuff
the space as full as it will admit of, and re-
place the piece which was cut off; bind
them with a thread; put over them hot
vinegar three successive days, and boil with
it the last time pepper, flour of mustard,
and some salt; put them into jars, and pour
over them the boiling vinegar, and when -
cold, cover them closely.
CULLIS. (1) To a quart of gravy, put a
table-spoonful of thickening, or from one to
two table-spoonfuls of flour, according to
the thickness you wish the gravy to be, into
a basin, with a ladleful of the gravy; stir it
quick; add the rest by degrees, till it is all
well mixed; then pour it back into a stew-
pan, and leave it by the side of the fire to
simmer for half an hour longer, that the
thickening may thoroughly incorporate with
the gravy, the stewpan being only half cov-
ered, stirring it every now and then; a sort
of scum will gather on the top, which it is
best not to take off till you are ready to
strain it through a tamis. Take care it is
neither of too pale nor too dark a color; if
it is not thick enough, let it stew longer, till
it is reduced to the desired thickness; or
add a bit of glaze, or portable soup to it,
if it is too thick, you can easily thin it with
a spoonful or two of warm broth, or water
W hen your sauce is done, stir it in the ba-
sin you put it into once or twice, while it ia
cooling.
I JUMJS. (2) Lay over the bottom tt;;
i stewpan as much lean veal as will co.ur



CUR
CUR
Gi
tt an inch thick; then cover the veal with
some slices of undressed bacon (gammon is
the best), three onions, three bay leaves,
some sweet herbs, two blades of mace, and
three cloves. Put on the lid of the stewpan,
and set it over a slow fire; but when the
juices come out, let the fire be a little quick-
er. When the meat is of a nice brown col-
or, fill the stewpan with good beef broth,
boil and skim it, then let it simmer for an
hour; add a little water mixed with as
much flour as will make it properly thick;
boil it half an hour, and strain tt. You
may keep this cullis a week.
CULLIS, A FAMILY ONE. Roll a
piece of butter in flour, and stir it in a stew-
pan till the flour is of a fine yellow color.
Then put in some thin broth: a little gravy,
a glass of white wine, a bundle of sweet
herbs, two cloves, a little nutmeg or mace, a
lew mushrooms, pepper and salt. Let it
stew an hour over a slow fire, then skim all
the fat clean off, and strain it through a
sieve.
CULLIS, WHITE. Take a piece of
veal, cut it into small bits, with some thin
slices of ham, and two onions, each cut into
four; moisten it with broth, seasoned with
mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, green onions,
three cloves, and so let it stew. Being
stewed, take out the meat and roots with a
skimmer, put in a few crumbs of bread, and
fet it stew softly; take the white of a fowl,
or two chickens, and put it into a mortar;
being well pounded, mix it in the cullis, but
it must not boil, and the cullis must be very
white; but if not white enough, pound two
dozen of sweet almonds blanched, and put it
into the cullis; then boil a glass of milk, and
add it to the cullis; let it be of a good fla-
vor, and strain it off; then put it into a
small kettle, and keep it warm. It may be
used for white loaves, crust of white bread,
and biscuits.
CURACOA. Put five ounces of thin-
cut Seville orange-peel, that has been dried
and poundc.d, or, which is still better, of
the fresh peel of a fresh shaddock, which
may be bought at the orange and lemon
shops in the beginuing of March, into a
quart of the finest and cleanest rectified
spirit; after it has been infused a fortnight,
strain it, and add a quart of sirup and filter.
See the following receipt.
CURACOA; how to make a
Q.UART. To a pint of the cleanest and
strongest rectified spirit, add two drachms
and a half of the sweet oil of orange-peel;
shake it up: dissolve a pound of good lump
sugar in a pint of cold water; make this in-
to a clarified sirup, which add to the
spirit: shake it up, and let it stand till the
following day: then line a funuel with a
piece of muslin, and that with filtering-
paper, and filter it two or three times till it
is quite bright. This liquor is an admira-
ble cordial; and a tea-spoonful in a tumbler
of water is a very refreshing summer drink,
and a great improvement to punch.
CURDS AND CREAM. (1) With
about half a table-spoonful of renuet, turn
two quarts of milk just from the cow; drain
off the whey, and fill a mould with the curd;
when it has stood an hour or two, turn it
out. Strew colored comfits over it, sweeten
some cream, mix grated nutmeg with it,
and pour it round the curd.
CURDS AND CREAM. (2) Put two
quarts of new milk into the dish in which it
is to be served, and turn it with a tea-spoon-
ful of renuet; when the curd has come, serve
it with cream in a separate dish.
CURRANTS, AND OTHER FRUIT,
TO CANDY. Boil the fruit in clarified
sugar as for preserving; take it out of the
sirup and drain it upon sieves; sift over it
through a lawn sieve, till quite white, pound-
ed loaf sugar. Place them in a cool oven,
and turn and dust them with sugar till dry.
CURRANT FRITTERS WITHOUT
EGGS. Stir into half a pint of mild ale,
as much flour as will make it into a thick
batter; add a little sugar and a few currants;
beat it up quickly, and with a spoon drop
it into boiling lard.
CURRANT MARMALADE. Take
some ripe red currants, pick them, and
squeeze out the juice from some of them; put
to it some juice of raspberries; then put to
this the whole currants, boil them gently;
and when they begin to break, put in an
equal weight of sugar boiled to candy height;
boil them together, mash them as they boil;
skim them, put in some rose water, and
when it becomes as thick as marmalade, put
it into pots.
CURRANT PUDDING. See Pud.
ding.
CURRANTS FOR TARTS. Gather
the fruit perfectly dry, and before tt be too
ripe, pick it from the stalks, and put it into
clean, dry, wide-mouthed lwttles; if the
flavor of raspberries is approved, some may
be added with the currants; tie tightly over
each bottle a piece of sound bladder previ-
ously soaked in water; set them into a pan
of cold water with a little straw at the hot-


CUR
CUR
62
torn, and a little between the bottles; put
them on the fire, and when they begin to
simmer, keep them in that state about three-
quarters of an hour, but they must not be
allowed to boil; take the pan off the fire;
the bladders will I« raised, but will fall soon
after, and sink into tin: mouth of the bottle?;
in an hour, take them out, and tie strong
paper over each, and set them in a dry cool
place. The bottles may be placed in a
bottle rack with the neck downwards.
Damsons, cherries, and gooseberries, may
be done in this way; any sort will keep for
a year. Cut off the stalks of the cherries,
and top and tail the gooseberries.
CURRANT TART. See Tarts.
CURRIES. Cut fowls or rabbits into
joints, and wash them clean; put two ounces
of butter into a stewpan : when it is melted,
put in the meat, and two middling-sized
onions sliced, let them be over a smart fire
till they are of a light brown, then put in
half a pint of broth; let it simmer twenty
minutes. Put in a basin one or two table-
spoonfuls of curry pqwder, a tea-spoonful of
flour, and a tea-spoonful of salt; mix it
smooth with a little cold water, put it into
the stewpan, and shake it well about till it
boils: let it simmer twenty mmutes longer;
then take out the meat, and rub the sauce
through a tam is or sieve: add to it two ta-
ble-spoonfuls of cream or milk; give it a
boil up; then pour it into a dish, lay the
meat over it: send up the rice in a separate
dish.
CURRY. Cut a fowl into small pieces,
skin it, and let it blanch in cold water for
two hours; mince an onion very small, and
put it into a saucepan, with two ounces of
butter, and a large table-spoonful of flour
of rice stirred in by degrees; brown it well,
and when just boiling, add a quart of cold
water, with the pieces of fowl and a large
table-spoonful of curry powder mixed in it.
let it boil till the fowl be quite tender, and
just before serving, squeeze the juice of
half a lemon over the blade of a knife into
it. Vinegar will answer instead of the
juice; and if it be required very fine, in
place of rice, thicken it with an ounce of
sweet almonds blanched and pounded.
CURRY RALLS for Mock Turtle,
Veal, Poultry, Made Dishes, fyc. Are
made with bread-crumbs, the yolk of an
egg boiled hard, and a bit of fresh butter
about half as big, beaten together in a mor-
tar, and seasoned with curry powder.
CURRY, DRY. Skin and cut a fowl
into joints, or take off small cutlets from
the best end of a neck of veal; fry in butter
three or four minced onions, and drain
them; then fry the fowl or veal, and dust it
with three tea-spoonful? of curry powder,
and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of Cayenue.
Put the fried meat and onions into a stew-
pan, with a little salt, half a pint of milk,
and the same quantity of .water; -keep the
pan closely covered, and let it stew till per-
fectly tender, and ten minutes before serv-
ing, add two tea-spoonfuls of lemon-juice.
CURRY, FISH. After a cod-fish, had-
dock, or mackerel has lain some hours in
salt, cut it into pieces, and stew it in water
sufftcient to cover it, into which a large fa-
ble spoonful of curry powder has been mix-
ed. Fry in a quarter of a pound of butter,
a shallot and two or three onions minced,
a little pepper and salt. When well brown-
ed, add it to the fish, and stew all together
till it 1*2 quite tender. Sprats make a good
curry, but should be stewed m less water.
CURRY, INDIAN. Stew in two ounc-
es of butter, for ten minutes, a teaspoonful
of Cayenue, and one of pepper, a dessert-
spoonful of pounded coriander seed, six
small onions, and two heads of garlic min-
ced. Cut the fowl or rabbit into small
pieces, and cover it over with the curd of
sweet milk. Put the whole into a stewpan,
with as much boiling water as may be de-
sired for sauce, and let it simmer till very
tender.
CURRY POWDER. (1) Put the follow-
ing ingredients in a cool oven all night, and
the next morning pound them in a marble
mortar, and rub them through a fine sieve.
Coriander-seed, three ounces, turmeric, three
ounces, black pepper, mustard, and ginger,
one ounce of each, allspice and less carda-
mons, half an oun^e of each, cumin seed,
a quarter of an ounce. Thoroughly pound
and mix together, and keep them in a well-
stopped bottle. Those who are fond of
curry sauces, may steep three ounces of the
powder in a quart of vinegar or white wine
for ten days, and will get a liquor impreg-
nated with all the flavor of the powder.
CURRY POWDER. (2) Pound ex-
tremely fine, in a mortar, six ounces of co-
riander seed, three ounces of pepper, one
ounce and a half of fenuigreek seed, one
ounce of cumin seed, three ounces of tur-
meric, and three-quarters of an ounce of
Cayenue; sift it through muslin, and put it
before the fire for four or five hours, sttrring
it every now and then. Keep it in a bottle
with a glass stopper.
CURRY OF VEAL, FOWL, &c. Fif


cus
cus
63
sliced veal, rabbit, fowl, or sweetbreads, in4t
good deal of butter, dusting it with flour.
Dust one side with curry powder; then turn
and dust the other, strewing over it finely-
minced onions, taking care not to burn them.
When tlie meat is of a light brown, add
some white stock, with a little wtlt; stew it
till tender. Before serving, skim off the fat,
and add a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice or
vinegar. Rabbit, fowl, and sweetbreads
should be parboiled.
CUSTARD. (1) Sweeten a quart of thin
cream, or good milk, with pounded loaf
sugar; lwil it with a bit of cinuamon, and
half the peel of a lemon; strain it, and when
a little cooled, mix it gradually with the
well-beaten yolks of ten eggs; stir it over a
slow fire till it be pretty thick, pour it into a
basin, and add a table-spoonful of rose water,
and one of brandy; keep stirring it every
now and then till cold, and then put it into
glasses, cups, or a dish. It may be made
the day before it is used.
CUSTARD. (2) Boil a pint of milk
with lemon-peel and cinuamon; mix a pint
of cream, and the yolks of five eggs, well
beaten; when the milk tastes of the season-
ing, sweeten it enough for the whole; pour
it into the cream, stirring it well; then give
the custard a simmer till of a proper thick-
ness. Do not let it boil; stir the whole
time one way; then season with a large
spoonful of peach water, and two tea-spoon-
fuls of brandy, or a little ratafia. If you wish
your custards to be extremely rich, put no
milk, but a quart of cream.
CUSTARDS. (3) Take six eggs,
leave out the whites; mix your eggs and
sugar together with somc rose water; then
boil a pint of cream, and put in the eggs
(the cream must not boil after the eggs have
been put in). Stir them to prevent them
from curdling.
CUSTARDS, ALMOND. Blanch and
pound fine, with half a gill of rose water, stx
ounces of sweet, and half an ounce of bitter
almonds; boil a pint of milk, as in Baked
Custard sweeten it with two ounces and a
half of sugar; rub the almonds through a
fine sieve, with a pint of cream; strain the
milk to the yolks of eight eggs, and the
whites of three well-beaten; stir it over a
fire till it is of a good thickness; take it off
the fire, and stir it till nearly cold, to prevent
its curdling. N. B.—The above may be
baked in cups, or in a dish, with a rim of
puff paste put round.
CUSTARD, APPLE. Take thirty
fine apples, and pierce out the cores of ten
of them which are of an equal size; pare
and trim them neatly, and boil them in stx
ounces of sugar till pretty firm. Peel and
cut the remaining apples very small, and put
them into the above sirup; shred the rmd
of an orange, and mix with them; stir the
whole constantly to prevent their sticking
to the pun; when sufficiently done rub the
marmalade through a horse-hair sieve. Pre-
pare the crust as before mentioned, but mess
the sides a little higher; mix two spoonfuls
of apricot marmalade with that of your
apples, and then put four spoonfuls of it into
the custard; place the whole apples, (hav-
ing put apricot marmalade in the place of
the cores), and then add the remainder of
the apple marma lade, taking care not to
cover the apples with it. Finish as above.
At the instant of serving it mask it with
apple jelly, apricot or quince marmalade,
cherry juice or verjuice. Garnish the top
of each apple with a cherry or verjuice-berry.
Serve this hot or cold.
CUSTARD, APRICOT GLAZED.
Cut twenty fine apricots in half, take out
the stones; toss up twelve apricots in four
ounces of powder-sugar/kutd place them in
a cream according to the directions for
apple custard; bake and glaze as therein
directed. Put a glass of water and a quar-
ter of a pound of powder-sugar with the
rest of the fruit into a preserving-pan; when
the sirup is properly reduced, take the skin
from the apricots and arrange them in the
custard; garnish each half apricot with a
kernel, and when ready to serve, pour the
sirup on it. Serve hot or cold.
CUSTARD, BAKED. (1) Boil a
pint of cream with mace and cinuamon;
when cold, take four eggs, leaving out two
of the whites, a little rose and orange-flower
water, a little white wine, nutmeg, and
sugar to your taste; mix them well together,
and bake them in china cups.
CUSTARD, BAKED. (2) Boil in a
pint of milk, a-few coriander seeds, a little
cinuamon and lemon-peel; sweeten with
four ounces of loaf sugar, and mix with it a
pint of cold milk; beat well eight eggs for
ten minutes, and add the other mgredients;
pour it from one pan into another six or
eight times, strain it through a sieve, and
let it stand some time; skim off the froth *
from the top, fill it in earthen cups, and
bake them immediately in a hot oven, give
them a good color; about ten minutes will
do them.
CUSTARD, BOILED. (1) Boil in a pint
of milk, five minutes, lemon-peel, corianders,
and cinuamon, a small quantity of each.


cu s
CU s
64
half a dozen of bitter almonds, blanched and
pounded, and four ounces of loaf sugar: mix
it with a pint of cream, the yolks often eggs,
and the whites of six, well-beaten; pass it
through a hair sieve, stir it with a whi?k
over a slow fire till it begins to thicken, re-
move it from the fire, and continue to stir
it till nearly cold; add two table-spoonfuls
nf brandy, fill the cups or glasses, and grate
nutmeg over.
CUSTARDS, BOILED. (2) Put a
quart of new milk into a stewpan, with the
peel of a lemon cut very thin, a little grated
nutmeg, a bay or laurel leaf, and a small
stick of cinuamon; set it over a quick fire,
but be careful it does not boil over: when it
boils, set it beside the fire, and simmer ten
minutes; break the yolks of eight, and the
whites of four eggs into a basin; beat them
well; then pour in the milk a little at a
time, stirring it as quick as possible to pre-
vent the eggs curdling; set it on the fire
again, and stir it well with a wooden spoon;
let it have just one boil; pass it through a
tamis, or fine sieve: when cold add a little
brandy, or white wine, as may be most
agreeable to the eater's palate. Serve up
in glasses, or cups. Custards for baking
are prepared as above, passed through a
fine sieve; put them into cups; grate a little
nutmeg over each: bake them about fifteen
or twenty minutes.
CUSTARD, COMMON. Boil a pint
of milk with a bit of cinuamon and two or
three laurel leaves; mix with one table-
spoonful of flour, or potato flour, two and a
half of cold milk, put it into a lawn sieve,
and pour the boiling milk upon it; let tt
nm into a basin, mix in by degrees the well-
beaten yolks of three eggs; sweeten, and
stir it over the fire for a few minutes to
thicken.
CUSTARDS OR CREAMS, to Orna-
ment. Whisk for one hour the whites of
two eggs together with two table-spoonfuls
of raspberry, or red currant sirup or jelly;
lay it in any form upon a custard or cream,
piled up to imitate rock. It may be served
in a dish with cream round it.
CUSTARD, DURHAM. To a pint of
cream add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs,
and about a third of a pint of mild strong
ale; sweeten, and stir it over the fire till it
nearly boils, then pour it into a dish, in the
bottom of which is laid thin toasted bread,
cut into square bits.
CUSTARD OF FRESH FRUIT.
Have ready a tin or copper mould, and line
it completely with paste, taking care that it
takes all the form of the mould. Then take
a sufficient quantity of apricots, peaches,
plums, or any other fruit you please; and
having taken out the stones, seeds, and stalks,
mix the fruit up with powder-sugar; put it
into the crust, and bake it in a hot oven.
When ready for table, mask it with the
sirup and kernels, blanched and cut in
halves.
CUSTARD, LEMON. (1) Boil two
glasses of white wine, half a pint of water,
and two table-spoonfuls of brandy; when
nearly cold, add the grated peel and juice
of two lemons, with half a pound of pounded
loaf sugar, and the well-beaten yolks of six
eggs; stir it over a slow fire till it thickens,
pour it into a basin, and stir now and then
till cold; put it into a dish, or cups, with
sifted loaf sugar over the top.
CUSTARD, LEMON. (2) Put the
juice of four lemons, with three ounces of
pounded loaf sugar, into a deep dish. Boil
the grated peel of one lemon and two ounces
of pounded loaf sugar in a quart of cream,
and pour it over the juice and sugat. It
will keep for four days.
CUSTARD, ORANGE. Sweeten the
strained juice of ten oranges with pounded
loaf sugar, stir it over the fire till hot, take
off the scum, and when nearly cold add to it
the beaten yolks of twelve eggs, and a pint
of cream; put it into a saucepan, and stir
it over a slow fire till it thickens. Serve in
cups or a dish.
CUSTARD, RICE. Mix a pint of
milk, half a pint of cream, one ounce of sjft-
ed ground rice, five or six bitter almonds,
blanched and pounded with two tabIe-spoon-
fuls of rose water; sweeten with loaf sugar,
and stir it all together till it nearly boils;
add the well-beaten yolks of three eggs;
stir, and let it simmer for about a minute;
pour it into a dish, or serve it in cups, with
sifted loaf sugar over the top.
CUSTARD, TURKEY. Put a pound
and a half of good rice into cold water over
the fire, and when it boils, take it off and
drain it well; then put it into a large sauce-
pan, with twelve glasses of good milk, a
pound of butter, the same of sugar, on which
have been rasped the peels of four oranges
or cedrats, and a gram of salt. Put the
saucepan over a moderate fire to swell the
rice, taking care that none of the grains
burst; stir it a little, and when done, add
to it two pounds of dry currants, the volks
of twelve eggs, and some spoonfuls of (5han.
tilly cream; after which mix in the twelve
whites whipped firm. Prepare the crust in


DAM
DE V
65
the usual way; bake it in a moderate oven
two hours and a half; when ready for table,
brown it with a salamander.
CUSTARD, TURNING OUT. Mix
with the well-beaten yolks of four eggs a
pint of new milk, half an ounce of isinglass
dissolved, or enough of calfs-feet stock to
stiffen it, and two laurel leaves; sweeten
with pounded loaf sugar, and stir it over a
slow fire till it thickens; pour it into a
basin, and stir it till a little cooled, then
pour it into cups to turn out when quite cold.
Beat the yolks of two eggs with a little
cream; add it to nearly half a pound of
brown sugar burnt; strain it through a
sieve, and when cold pour it round the cus-
tards.
D.
DAMSONS BOTTLED. Gather them
on a dry day before they are ripe, when they
have just turned their color. Put them in
wide-mouthed bottles, cork them close, and
let them stand a fortnight; then carefully
examine them, and if any of them are
mouldy or spotted, take them out of the bot-
tles, and cork the rest close. Put the bot-
tles in sand, and they will keep good till the
spring.
DAMSON DUMPLINGS. Make a
^ood hot paste crust, roll it pretty thin, lay it
m a basin, and put in as many damsons as
you please. Wet the edge of the paste and
close it up; boil it in a cloth for an hour;
pour melted butter over it, grate sugar round
the edge of the dish, and serve.
DAMSON JELLY. See Jelly.
DAMSON, OR OTHER PLUM
CHEESE. Take damsons that have been
preserved without sugar; pass them through
a sieve, to take out the skins and stones.
To every pound of pulp of fruit put half a
pound of loaf sugar, broke small; boil them
together till it becomes quite stiff; pour it
into four common-sized dinuer plates, rubbed
with a little sweet oil; put it into a warm
place to dry, and when quite firm, take it
from-the plate, and cut it into any shape you
choose. N. B.—Damson cheese Is generally
used in desserts.
DAMSONS FOR WINTER USE.
Gather the damsons when just ripe, and per-
fectly sound; fill a two-gallon brandy keg,
and pour over two pounds of molasses; close
the keg firmly, and turn it every day.
DEER HORNS. Beat one white, and
six yolks of eggs; mix tbem with five table
spoonfuls of pounded and sifted loaf sugar,
the same quantity of sweet cream, ten sweet
almonds, blanched and pounded, the grated
peel of one lemon, and as much flour as will
make the whole into a paste sufficiently
thick to roll out. Then cut it with tins for
the purpose, into the form of horns, branch-
es, or any other shape, and throw them into
boiling latd.
DEVIL. (1) Score the leg of a roasted tur-
key, goose, or fowl; pepper and salt it well,
broil it, and pour over it the following sauce
made quite hot: three table-spoonfuls of gra-
vy, one of melted butter, and one of lemon
juice, a large wine-glass of Port wine, of
mustard, Chili vinegar, Harvey sauce, and
mushroom catchup, a tea-spoonful each ; a lit-
tle Cayenue and pepper. The devil may lie
served without a sauce, and be more highly
seasoned. When this dish is to be served
cold, the fat being carefully removed from the
goose, it may be ornamented or covered with
cold jelly made as follows :—Boil for five
hours in four (marts of water the bones of the
goose, with three nicely cleaned calf's feet,
strain it, and when cold take off all the fat,
and boil the jelly with some whole pepper,
ginger, and salt; add two ounces of dissolv-
ed tsinglass, the juice of two lemons, and
the beaten whites of three or four eggs; stir
it while it is upon the fire, and allow it to
boil about ten minutes; then run it through
a jelly-bag, and repeat this till it becomes
quite clear.
DEVIL. (2) The gizzard and rump, or
legs, &c. of a dressed turkey, capon, or
goose, or mutton or veal kidney, scored,
peppered, salted, and broiled, sent up for a
relish, being made very hot, has obtained
the name of a " devil."
DEVONSHIRE JUNKET. (1) Turn
some new milk from the'cow with a little
rennet; sweeten some thick cream, add a
little pounded cinnamon, make it scalding
hot, and when cold pour it over the curd,
and put a little wine and sugar into the bot-
tom of the dish.
DEVONSHIRE JUNKET. (2) Turn
some new milk, as for cheese cakes, in a
wtde shallow dish ; when cold, pour over the
top a pint of rich cream mixed with pounded
loaf sugar, six dessert spoonfuls of brandy,
and some grated nutmeg.
DEVONSHIRE WHITE POT. Beat
up a pint of cream with four eggs, a little
salt, some sliced nutmeg, and a good deal of
6*


DUC
DUC
66
Wgar; then slice very thin, almost the whole
of the cram of a penny loaf; put it into a
dish; pour the eggs and cream to it; a
handful of Smyrna raisins boiled, and a
little sweet butter: bake it.
DIGESTER. An iron boiler, with a
top to screw on, to prevent the steam from
escaping.
DRIPPINGS, TO CLARIFY. Put
your dripping into a clean saucepan over a
stove or slow fire; when it is just going to
boil, skim it well, let it boil, and then let it
stand till it is a little cooled; then pour it
through a sieve into a pan. Obs.—Well-
cleansed drippings, and the fat skimmings
of the broth-pot, when fresh and sweet, will
baste everything as well as butter except
game and poultry, and should supply the
place of butter for common fries, &c.; for
which they are equal to lard, especially if
you repeat the clarifying twice over. N. B.
—If you keep it in a cool place, you may
preserve it a fortnight in summer, and long-
er in winter. When you have done frying,
let the dripping stand a few minutes to set-
tle, and then pour it through a sieve into a
clean basin or stone pan, and it will do a
second and a third tune as well as it did
the first; only the fat you have fried fish in
must not be used for any other purpose.
DRINK, COOLING. A palatable and
cooling drink may be made by pouring hot
water over slices of lemon; when cold, to
be strained and sweetened.
DUCK. Mind your duck is well clean-
ed, and wiped out with a clean cloth: for the
stuffmg, take an ounce of onion and half an
ounce of green sage; chop them very fine,
and mix them with two ounces, i. e. about
a breakfast-cupful, of bread crumbs, a bit
of butter about as big as a walnut, a very
little black pepper and salt, and the yolk of
an egg to bind it; mix these thoroughly to-
gether, and put into the duck. From half
to three-quarters of an hour will be enough
to roast it, according to the size: contrive
to have the feet delicately crisp, as some
people are very fond of them; to do this
cicely you must have a sharp fire.
DUCK, TO BOIL. Make a paste, al-
,owing half a pound of butter to a pound of
flour. Jruss a duck as for boiling; put in-
to the inside a little pepper and salt, one or
two sage leaves, and a little onion finely
minced; enclose the duck in the paste, with
a little jellied gravy. Boil it in a cloth, and
serve it with brown gravy poured round it.
DUCKS, TO CHOOSE. Their feet
should be supple, and they should be hard
and thick on the breast and belly. The feet
of a tame duck are thick, and inclining to a
dusky yellow. The feet of a wild duck are
reddtsh, and smaller than the tame; they
should be picked dry. Ducklings should be
scalded.
i DUCK, DRESSED IN DIFFERENT
WAYS. Take either a large duck, or two
ducklings, which truss like a fowl for boil-
ing; put it into a pot (just about large
enough to hold the duck) with thin slices of
bacon, a little stock, a glass of wine, pepper,
salt, onions, carrots, a head of celery sliced,
a bunch of sweet herbs, two cloves, and a
bay-leaf; when done, take out the duck,
wipe the fat off very clean, and serve with
what sauce or ragout you choose, such as
sweetbreads, green-peas, turnips, chestnuts,
olives, cucumbers, or any sort of stewed
greens, according to the season.
DUCKS, GEESE, DRESSED, OR
hashed. Cut an onion into small dice;
put it into a stewpan with a bit of butter;
fry it, but do not let it get any color; put
as much boiling water into the stewpan as
will make sauce for the hash; thicken it
with a little flour; cut up the duck, and put
it into the sauce to warm; do not let it
boil; season it with pepper and salt, and
catchup. Divide the duck into joints; lay
it by ready; put the trimmings and stuffing
into a stewpan, with a pint and a half of
broth or water; let it boil half an hour, and
then rub it through a sieve; put half an
| ounce of butter into a stewpan; as it melts,
mix a table-spoonful of flour with it; stir it
over the fire a few minutes, then mix the
gravy with it by degrees; as soon as it boils,
take off the scum, and strain through a
sieve into a stewpan; put in the duck, and
let it stew very gently for ten or fifteen min-
utes, if the duck is rather under-roasted: if
there is any fat, skim it off: line the dish
you serve it up in with sippets of bread
either fried or toasted.
DUCK OR GOOSE FORCED. Cut
the goose open at the back, and carefully
take out the bones, excepting those of the
legs and wings. Take out all the meat from
the body, leaving the sftin perfectly whole.
With the meat pound three-quarters of a
pound of lean and tender beef, add three
handfuls of grated bread, four well-beaten
eggs, and half a pint of rich sweet cream;
season with pepper, mace, and salt; mix
it all well together; let it stand for half an
hour, and then put it into the goose, which
sew up, and make it of as natural a form as
possible; but take care that it be not too
much stuffed. Boil it for half an hour in


DUC
DUM
67
tome good stock, and then put it into a flat
tin baking-pan, with some fresh butter over
and under it. Bake it in an oven another
half hour, and serve it with the following
sauce: Brown a table-spoonful of butter
with flour, add about a pint of the stock
m which the goose has been boiled, three
grated onions, two table-spoonfuls of capers
cut fine, a little lemon pickle, and a few
small pickled onions; boil it about a quar-
ter of an hour, and just before pouring it
over the goose, stir in gradually half a pint
of rich cream.
DUCK, HASHED, Cut a duck in
pieces, and flour it; put in a stewpan some
gravy, a little Port wine, shallots chopped
fine, salt, pepper, and a bit of lemon ; lwil
this; then put in the duck, toss it up, take
out the lemon, and serve with toasted sippets.
DUCKS ROASTED. Season them
with sage and onion shred, pepper and salt;
half an hour will roast them. Gravy-sauce
or onion sauce. Always stew the sage and
onion in a little water, as it prevents its
eating strong, and takes off the rawness of
them.
DUCK, TO STEW. (1) Cut one or two
ducks into quarters; fry them a light brown
nt butter; put them into a saucepan, with
1 pint of gravy, a tea-cupful of Port wine,
Wtr onions whole, pepper and some salt, a
ounch of parsley, two sage leaves, a sprig
of winter savory, and sweet marjoram.
Cover the pan closely, and stew them till ten-
der; take out the herbs and pepper; skim it;
if the sauce be not sufficiently thick, mix whh
two table-spoonfuls of it a little flour, and
stir it into the saucepan; boil it up, and
garnish the dish with the four onions.
DUCK, TO STEW. (2) Put into a duck
some pepper, salt, a minced onion, and one
leaf of sage also minced; half roast it;
brown with two ounces of butter, a table-
spoonful of flour; add as much weak stock
or water as will half cover the duck, and
some pepper and salt; put in the duck, and
a quart of green peas; let it stew for half
an hour, stirring it now and then. For a
variety, a dozen of middling-sized onions
may be substituted for the peas, and stew-
ed the same length of time. Cold roasted
duck may be dressed exactly in, the same
manuer; and to hash it, cut it into joints,
and heat it thoroughly in gravy, adding a
little soy, and a glass of Port wine.
DUCK, WILD. These birds should be
fat, the claws small, reddish and supple; if
BOt fresh, on opening the beak they will
smell disagreeable; the breast and rump
should be firm and heavy; the flesh of the
hen-bird is the most delicate, though the
cock generally fetches the highest price.
Pick them dry, cut the wings very close to
the body, take off the necks, draw and singe
them, truss up the legs and skewer them;
and having rubbed them with their livers,
spit, and roast them; take them up with
the gravy in, and serve with lemons.
DUCK, WILD, SALMIS OF. Cut
off the best parts of a couple of roasted wild
ducks, and put the rest of the meat into a
mortar, with six shallots, a little parsley,
some pepper, and a bay-leaf, pound all these
ingredients together well, and then put them
into a saucepan with four ladlesful of stock,
ludf a glass of white wine, the same of
broth, and a little grated nutmeg; reduce
these to half, strain them, and having laid
the pieces on a dish, cover them wtth the
above: keep the whole hot, not boiling, un-
til wanted for table.
DUMPLINGS, HARD. Mix as for a
paste, some flour with small beer or water,
and a little salt; roll them in balls rather
larger than an egg; when the water boils
put them in: half an hour will boil them;
currants may be added; they are good tail-
ed with beef. They are eaten either wtth
cold or melted butter.
DUMPLINGS, HALF-HOUR. Mince
fmely half a pound of suet, mix it with tlte
same proportion of grated bread, and a ta-
ble-slxwnful of flour, a quarter of a pound
of currants, some sugar, a little grated lem-
on-peel, nutmeg, and three well-beaten eggs;
roll the mixture into round balls, tie them
in bits of linen, and boil them for half an
hour. Serve with melted butter and sugar
poured over them.
DUMPLINGS, NORFOLK. With a
pint of milk, two eggs, a little salt, and
some flour, make a batter; drop tiiis in
small quantities into a pot of boiling water;
they will be boiled in three minutes; throw
them into a sieve or cullender to drain.
DUMPLING PASTE. Make a paste
with flour, milk, salt and yeast; let it stand
sometime in a warm place to ferment; then
cut the paste into pieces of what size you
please, and boil them a good while; let
them cool; then cut each into two, and
soak them in milk sugar, and lemon-peel,
about an hour, and dram and flour them fit
for frying; or, you may dip them in oil or
melted butter to broil, basting with the
same as they were dipped in.


EEL
EEL
68
DUTCH CREAM CHEESE. Beat
the yolks of eight, and the whites of three
eggs, and mix them with a pint of butter
milk; add this to three quarts of boiling
milk just from the cow; let it boil up once,
take it off the fire, cover it, and let it stand
a little that the curd may form; then put it
into a small hair sieve, and press it with a
weight for twenty-four hours, when it may
be turned out. It is eaten with cream and
sugar.
DUTCH FLUMMERY. (1) Boil,
with a pint of white wine, some sugar, the
juice of two, and the peel of one lemon, a
stick of cinuamon, and half an ounce of dis-
solved isinglass; strain, and mix it with the
well-beaten yolks of seven eggs, stir it over
the fire till it simmer, but do not allow it to
boil; stir it till quite cold, and put it into a
shape.
DUTCH FLUMMERY. (2) Boil for
ten minutes, in half a pint of white wine, and
the same proportion of water, the juice of
three, and the peel of two lemons, rather
more than a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar,
and an ounce of isinglass dissolved; strain,
and mix it gradually with the beaten yolks
of five eggs; put it again over the fire, and
stir it for five minutes; stir it till cold, and
put it into a shape.
E.
ECHAUDE'S. Lay a quartern of flour
on a pasteboard or slab, make a hole in the
centre, in which put an ounce of salt, and a
little water to dissolve it, a pound of butter,
twenty eggs; mix the two latter well to-
gether, then the flour; work it thoroughly
with your hands, if it be very firm add more
eggs. When perfectly smooth, sprinkle a
cloth with flour, lay the paste in it, and set
it in a cool place for ten or twelve hours.
The next day heat about three quarts of
water, and having cut your paste into small
pieces, about an inch square, and having
floured each, put them into hot but not boil-
ing water, shake the kettle the instant after
you have thrown them in, and as they rise,
if they are firm to the touch, they are suf-
ficiently done, and must be taken out of the
saucepan, and thrown into cold water; let
them remain two or three hours; then drain,
and leave them again for three hours or
more, and then bake them for about twenty
minutes.
EELS AND SOLES, stewed Wtg-
SYis way. Take two pounds of fine sil-
j ver eels: the Iiest are those that are rather
more than a half-crown piece in circumfer-
ence, quiteMiesh, full of lift, and "as brisk
as an eel:" wash them in several different
waters, and divide them into pieces about
four inches long. Some cooks, dredge them
with a little flour, wipe them dry, and then
egg and crumb them, and fry them in drip-
pings till they are brown, and lay them to
dry on a hair sieve. Have ready a quart
of good beef gravy; it must he cold when
you put the eels into it: set them on a slow
fire to simmer very gently for about a quar-
ter of an hour, according to the size of the
eels; watch them, that they are not done
too much; take them carefully out of the
stewpan with a fish-slice, so as not to tear
their coats, and lay them on a dish about
two inches deep.
EELS BAKED. Skin and clean some
eels; take a shallow pan, and cut the eels in
lengths according to the depth of the pan;
put them in, letting them stand upright in
it; the pan should be filled; put in a little
water, some salt, pepper, shallots cut small,
some sweet herbs, and a little parsley cut
small; set them in the oven to bake; when
they are done take the liquor that comes
from diem, put it into a saucepan, and thick-
en it with a piece of butter rolled in flour,
and a little white wine.
EELS BOILED. Small ones are pre-
ferable. Curl and put them on in boiling
salt-and-water, with a little vinegar. Gar-
nish with parsley. Sauce;—parsley and
butter.
EELS COLLARED. Take an eel, and
cut it open; take out the bones; cut off the
head and tail; lay the eel flat, and shred
sage as fine as possible; mix with black
pepper pounded, nutmeg grated, and salt;
lay it all over the eel; roll it up hard in a
cloth; tie it up tight at each end; then set
over the fire some water, with pepper and
salt, five or six cloves, three or four blades
of mace, a bay-leaf or two; boil these with
the hones, head, and tail, well; then put in
the eel, and boil it till it is tender; then take
it out, and boil the liquor, and when it is
cold, put it to the eel; do not take off the
clojh ttll you use them.
EELS FRIED. Cut them into pieces
of three or four inches long, and then score
across in two or three places; season them
with pepper and salt,and dust them with flour,
or dip them into an egg beat up, and sprinkle
them with finely-grated bread crumbs; fry
them in fresh lard or dripping. Let them
drain and dry upon the back of a sieve be-
fore the fire. Garnish with parsley. Sauce;


EEL
EGG
69
melted butter, and lemon pickle. If small,
they may be curled and fried whole.
EEL PIE. Take eels about half a pound
each; cut them into pieces three inches long,
season them with pepper and salt, and fill
your dish. Add a gill of water or veal
broth, cover it with paste, rub it.over with a
paste-brush dipped in yolk of egg, ornament
it with some of the same paste, bake it an
hour; and when done, make a hole in the
centre, and pour in the following sauce
through a funuel: the trimmings boiled in
half a pint of veal stock, seasoned with liep-
per and salt, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice,
and thickened with flour and water, strained
through a fine sieve: add it boiling hot.
EELS POTTED. Bone them; season
them well upon both sides with pepper, salt,
a little mace, and Jamaica pepper; let them
lie for six hours, then cut them into small
pieces, and pack them close into a dish;
cover them with a coarse paste and bake
them. When quite cold, take off the paste,
and pour over them clarified butter.
EEL SOUP. See Soups.
EELS STEWED, (1) Cut the eels
into pieces about four inches long; take two
onions, two shallots, a bunch of parsley,
thyme, two bay leaves, a little mace, black
and Jamaica pepper, a pint of good gravy,
the s:une of Port wine, and the same of vin-
egar, six anchovies bruised; let all boil to-
gether for ten minutes; take out the eels;
boil the sauce till reduced to a quart; strain
and thicken it with a table-spoonful of flour,
mixed smooth in a little cold water. Put
in the eels, and boil them till they are ten-
der. Eels may also be roasted wtth a com-
mon stuffing.
EELS STEWED. (2) Cut the eels
mto pieces, season well two pounds and a
half with salt and black pepper, put an ounce
of butter into a stewpan with a large handful
of sorrel, three or four sage leaves, half an
onion cut small, a little grated lemon-peel,
and one anchovy chopped; put in the eels
and pour over half a pint of water, stew
them gently for half an hour, shaking them
occasionally; before serving, add a little
grated nutmeg, and the juice of half a lemon.
EELS SPITCHCOCKED. This the
French cooks call the English way of dress-
ing eels. Take two middling-sized silver
eels, scour them with salt, slit them on the
belly side, and take out the bones and wash
and wipe them nicely; then cut them into
pieces about three inches long, and wipe
them quite dry; put two ounces of butter
into a stewpan with a little minced parsley
thyme, sage, pepper, and salt, and a very
little chopped eschalot; set the stewpan
over the fire; when the butter is melted,
stir the ingredients together, and take it off
the fire, mix the yolks of two eggs with them,
and dip the eel in, a piece at a time, and
then roll them in bread-crumbs, making as
much stick to them as you can; then rub
the gridiron with a bit of suet, set it high
over a very clear fire, and broil your eels of
a fine crisp brown. Dish them with crisp
parsley, and send up with plain butter in a
boat, and anchovy and butter.
EGGS. (1) Eggs may be preserved for
twelve months, in a sweet and palatable state
for eating in the shell, or using for salads, by
boiling them for one minute; and when
wanted for use let them be boiled in the
usual manuer: the white may be a little
tougher than a new-laid egg, but the yolk
will show no difference.
EGGS. (2) Pour a gallon of water
over a pound of unslacked lime, stir it well;
the following day, pour off the clear water
into ajar, and put in the eggs as they are
laid. In this manuer they will continue
perfectly good for six months or more.
There are so many different ways of
dressing eggs, that the recipes would almost
fill a volume; we have, therefore, given such
as we esteem the best, and the most adapted
to the English taste.
EGGS AND BACON RAGOUT.
Boil half a dozen eggs for ten minutes;
throw them into cold water; peel them and
cut them into halves; pound the yolks in a
marble mortar, with about an equal quantity
of the white meat of dressed fowl, or veal, a
little chopped parsley, an anchovy, an escha-
lot, a quarter of an ounce of butter, a table-
spoonful of mushroom catchup, a little Cay-
enue, some bread-crumbs, and a very little
beaten mace, or allspice; incorporate them
well together, and fill the halves of the
whites with this mixture; do them over
with the yolk of an egg, and brown them in
a Dutch oven, and serve them on relishing
rashers of bacon or ham.
EGGS AND BREAD. Put half a hand-
ful of bread crumbs into a saucepan, with a
small quantity of cream, salt, pepper, and
nutmeg, and let it stand till the bread has
imbibed all the cream; then break ten egge
into it, and having beaten them up together,
fly it like an omelet.
EGGS AND CREAM. Boil half a pint
of cream till reduced to half the quantity;
then add eight eggs, season them with sah


EGG
EGG
70
jtnd pepper, boil them together, till the eggs
are partly hard; p^s a salamander over the
top, and serve.
EGGS A LA TRIPE. Cut into thick
round slices a dozen of hard-boiled eggs
and put them into the following sauce: cut
three large white onions into dtce, fry them
white in butter, and when nearly done, dust
thcm with flour, and moisten them with some
milk and a few spoonfuls of cream; keep
stirring with a wooden spoon, to prevent
their burning. When the sauce is done,
grate in a little nutmeg, season with a little
salt and pepper, and put in the eggs.
EGG BALLS. Boil four eggs for ten
minutes, and put them into cold water; when
they are quite cold, put the yolks into a
mortar with the yolk of a raw egg, a tea-
spoonful of flour, same of chopped parsley,
as much salt as will lie on a shilling, and a
little black pepper, or Cayenue; rub them
well together, roll them into small balls (as
they swell in boiling); boil them a couple
of minutes.
EGGS BOILED, to eat tn the
shell, or for salads. The fresher
laid the better: put them into boiling water;
if you like the white just set, about two
minutes boiling is enough; anew-laid egg
will take a little more; if you wish the yolk
to be set, it will take three, and to boil it
hard for a salad, ten minutes. A new-laid
egg will requtre boiling longer than a stale
one, by half a minute.
EGGS BOURGEOISE. Spread some
butter over the bottom of a dish, cover it
entirely with thin slices of crumb of bread,
on that lay thin slices of cheese, then eight
or ten eggs, season them with salt, pepper
and nutmeg, set the dish over a stove to cook
gently till done.
EGGS, BUTTERED. Beat and strain
ten or twelve eggs; put a piece of butter into
a saucepan and keep turning it one way
till melted; put in the beaten eggs, and stir
them round with a silver spoon till they be-
come quite thick. Serve them in a dish
upon buttered toast. They may be eaten
with fish, fowl, or sausages.
EGGS EN SURPRISE. Take a dozen
eggs, and make a small hole at each end of
every-egg, through which pass a straw and
break the yolk; then blow out the yolk care-
fully. Wash the shells, and having drained,
dry them in the open air; mix the yolk of
an egg with a little flour to close one of the
holes of the shells, and when dry, ftll half the
number by means of a small funuel, with
chocolate cream, and the remaining six with
coffee or orange-cream; close the other end
of your eggs, and put them into a saucepan
of hot water; set them on the fire, taking
care they do not boil; when done, remove
the cement from the ends; dry, and serve
them on a folded napkin.
EGGS, FRIED. Eggs boiled hard, cut
into slices, and fried, may be served as a
second course dish, to eat with roasted
chickens.
EGGS FRIED WITH BACON. 'Lay
some slices of fme streaked bacon (not more
than a quarter of an inch thick) in a clean
dish, and toast them before the fire in a
cheese-toaster, turning them when the upper
side is browned; ftrst ask those who are to
eat the bacon, if they wish it much or little
done, t. e. curled and crisped, or mellow
and soft: if the latter, parboil it first. Well-
cleansed dripping, or lard, or fresh butter,
are the best fats for frying eggs Be sure
the frying-pan is quite clean; when the fat
is hot, break two or three eggs into it; do
not turn them, but, while they are frying,
keep pouring some of the fat over them with
a spoon; when the yolk just begins to look
white, which it will in about a couple of
minutes, they are done enough; the white
must not lose its transparency, but the yolk
be seen blushing through tt: if they are
done nicely, they will look as white and
delicate as if they had 'been poached; take
them up with a tin slice, drain the fat from
them, trim them neatly, and send them up
with the bacon round them.
EGGS FRIED, AND MINCED HAM
or bacon. Choose some fine salt pork,
streaked with a good deal of lean; cut this
into very thin slices, and afterward into
small square pieces; throw them into a
stewpan, and set it over a gentle fire, that
they may lose some of their fat. When as
much as will freely come is thus melted from
them, lay them on a warm dish. Put into
a stewpan a ladle-full of melted bacon or
lard; set it on a stove; put in about a dozen
of the small pieces of bacon, then stoop the
stewpan and break in an egg. Manage this
carefully, and the egg will presently be done:
it will be very round, and the little dice of
bacon will stick to it all over, so that it will
make a very pretty appearance. Take care
the yolks do not harden; when the egg is
thus done, lay it carefully in a warm thsh,
and do the others.
EGG FRITTERS. Pound a dozen
hard boiled eggs with a little cream, and a
quarter of a pound of beef marrow; then
pound half a dozen macaroons, some bitter


EGG
ELD
71
almonds, a little sugar, and lemon-peel;
mix these with the pounded eggs, and farm
them into fritters, dip them into a batter
made with flour, butter, salt, and lemon-
peel; fry them in very hot lard, sprinkle su-
gar over, and serve.
EGGS FROTHED. Beat up the yolks
of eight eggs and the whites of four (set
aside the remaining whites) with a spoonful
of water, some salt, sugar, and the juice of a
lemon; fry this, and then put it on a dish;
whip the four whites (which were set aside)
to a froth with sugar, and place it over the
fried eggs; bake it in a Dutch oven, or with
a high cover fitted for the purpose.
EQG3, GLASS. Butter a dish, and
break into it a piece of butter nearly as large
as an egg: add a tea-cupful of cream, and
drop in four or five eggs; put upon each a
little pepper and salt, set the dish upon a
stove, and serve it when the eggs are firm,
which may be in ten or fifteen minutes.
EGG MARMALADE. (1) Blanch and
pound with a little rose water, two ounces of
sweet almonds, the same of orange marmalade,
and four of citron; add two spoonfuls of bran-
dy, and when quite smooth, the beaten yolks of
six and the whites of two eggs, with a little
pounded loaf sugar; put it into a saucepan,
and stir it till it becomes thick, then pour it
into a shape. When quite cold, serve it,
turned out and garnished with flowers.
EGG MARMALADE. (2) Clarifyapound
of sugar, keeping it rather thick; when cool,
add to it the yolks of twenty eggs, which
should be perfectly free from the whites, and
well stirred, but not beaten; set these on
the fire, stirring continually until it boils, and
then continue to stir until sufficiently thick;
if any scum should arise, it need not be taken
off, as the boiling and stirring will effectually
remove it. Orange-flower water may be
added, if approved.
EGGS, TO POACH. The cook who
wishes to display her skill in poaching,
must endeavour to procure eggs that have
been latd a couple of days—those that are
quite new-laid are so milky that, take all
the care you can, your cooking of them will
seldom procure you the praise of being a
prime poacher; you must have fresh eggs,
or it is equally impossible. The beauty of
a poached egg ts for the yolk to be seen
blushing through the white, which should
only be just sufficiently hardened, to form a
transparent veil for the egg. Have some
boiling water in a tea-kettle; pass as much
of it through a clean cloth as will half fill a
itewpan; break the egg into a cup, and
when the water boils, remove the stewpan
from the stove, and gently slip the egg into
it; it must stand till the white is set; then
put it over a very moderate fire, and as soon
as the water boils, the egg is ready; take it
up with a slice, and neatly round off the
ragged edges of the wuite; send them up on
bread toasted on one side only, with or with-
out butter; or without a toast, garnished
with streaked bacon nicely fried, or slices
of broiled beef or mutton, anchovies, pork
sausages, or spinage. The bread should be
a little larger than the ogg, and about a
quarter of an inch thick; only just give it a
yellow color: if you toast it brown, it will
get a bitter flavour; or moisten it by pour-
ing a little hot water upon it: some sprinkle
it with a few drops of vinegar, or of essence
of anchovy.
EGGS POACHED, wtth Sauce of
mtnced Ham. Poach the eggs as before
directed, and take two or three slices of
boiled ham; mince it fine with a gherkin, a
morsel of onion, a little parsley, and pepper
and salt; stew all together a quarter of an
hour; serve up your sauce about half boiling;
put the eggs in a dish, squeeze over the juice
of half a Seville orange, or lemon, and pom
the sauce over them.
EGG PUNCH. Take a punch-glass,
and put into it a wine-glass of sirup of punch
(see that article), and the yolk of an egg;
beat them together with a spoon, and then
fill up the glass with boiling water, stirring
a little as you pour it m.
EGG TOAST. Put a glass of thick
cream, some sugar, two or three macaroons
pounded, with a few almonds, a little grated
lemon, give them a boil; then add the yolks
of eight and whites of three eggs, beat the
whole up over a slow fire; and lay on very
thm slices of fried bread; sprinkle sugar
over, and serve.*
EGG WINE. Beat up an egg, mix with
it a spoonful of cold water; set on the fire a
glass of white wine, half a glass of water,
sugar, and nutmeg. When it boils, pour a
littls of it to the egg by degrees, till the
whole is in, stirring it well; then return the
whole into the saucepan, set it over a gentle
fire, stir it one way for a minute, not longer,
for if it boil, or the egg is stale, it will curdle;
serve with toast. You may make it as above,
without warming the egg, and it will be
lighter on the stomach, though not so agree-
able to the palate.
ELDER FLOWER FRITTERS.
They are made whilst the elder flowers are
in bloom; and they should marinate three


END
ESP
72
or four hours in brandy, sugar, orange-flower
water, and lemon-peel; when drained, dip
them in a good thick batter to fry, and serve
with rasped sugar, as in general.
ELDER ROB. Gather the elderberries
when quite ripe, put them into a stone jar,
tie a bladder or paper over the top, and
place the jar in a pan of water; let it boil
till the berries are very soft; strain them
through a coarse cloth, and to every pint of
juice albw half a pound of good brown su-
gar; put it into a preserving-pan, stir it, and
when it boils, take off the scum, and let it
boil for one hour.
ELDER VINEGAR. Choose the elder-
flowers when just blown, take away all the
stalks, and when the flowers are about
half dry, put them into a jar, and fill the jar
with vmegar, close it tight, and let it stand
in the sun for twenty days; then draw it off,
press the flowers, and having filtered the
whole, bottle it; take care to keep the bot-
tles closely corked.
ELDERBERRIES. Can be made to
produce excellent wine, allowing to a ten-
gallon cask forty pounds of fruit, forty pounds
of sugar, and a quarter of a pound of tartar.
When elderberry wine is desired for a warm
cordial, it is made in the following manuer:
—Twenty-five pounds of fruit are to be boil-
ed for an hour, in eleven gallons of watet,
and along with it, tied in a piece of linen,
one ounce of allspice, and two of ginger;
forty pounds of sugar being put into a tub,
the boiling liquor is strained over it, pressing
the fruit quite dry; a quarter of a pound of
crude tartar, or cream of tartar, is then
added to the liquid. When it has stood two
days in the tub, it may be removed to the
cask, treated, as for sweet wute, in the usual
manuer, and bottled in March following.
When to be drank, a portion of it is heated
with some sugar, two or three cloves, and a
little nutmeg.
EMPOTAGE. Put into a large sauce-
pan, three or four pounds of beef-steaks, a
knuckle of veal, and four old hens; moisten
this quantity of meat with two ladlesful of
broth; set tt on a stove, and let it boil till
properly reduced, taking care that none of
the* meat burns, which would make the
empotage of too high a color; fill up your
saucepan with broth, adding carrots, turnips,
and onions; let all these ingredients stand
over the fire for three hours and a half; then
strain the whole through a silk sieve, that
it may be perfectly clear.
ENDIVE IN VELOUTE. Take off
all the outer leaves of your endive, and having
opened the hearts, put them into cold water
to wash them. In the meanwhile heat a
kettle of water, put in it a handful of salt,
then throw in the endive; keep it constantly
under the water, to prevent their turning
black. As soon as the endive is tender,
drain, and then put it into cold water, and
when quite cold, drain it again; press the
water out with your hands; then chop it
small, and put it into a saucepan, with some
butter, salt, and pepper, stir it well, and
then add five spoonfuls of veloute, the same
of consomme; reduce it till pretty thick, and
then put it in a dish, with fried bread round
it. Endive may also be dressed with cream,
in which case, put two spoonfuls of flour into
it, and moisten it with cream.
ENDIVE IN GRAVY OF VEAL.
Wash and clean thoroughly ten or twelve
heads of fine endive, take off the outer leaves,
and blanch the heads in hot water; throw
them into cold water, and then squeeze ihem
as dry as possible. Stew them in as much
gravy as will cover them; add a tea-spoon-
ful of pounded sugar,and a little salt. When
perfectly tender, put in a little veloute sauce,
and serve quite hot.
ENTREE. There is no word precisely
equivalent to this in English. Any dish of
butcher's meat, fowl, game, or fish, dressed
for the first course, is called an entree.t
ENTREMET. There is no word equiv-
alent to this in English. All dishes of veg-
etables, jellies, pastries, salad, prawns, lob-
sters, and, in general, everything that appears
in the second course, except the roast, is
called an enlremet.
ESCHALOT WINE. Peel, mince, and
pound in a mortar, three ounces of eschalots,
and infuse them in a pint of Sherry for ten
days; then pour off the clear liquor on three
ounces more eschalots, and let the wine
stand on them ten days longer. This is
rather the most expensive, but infinitely
the most elegant preparation of eschalot,
and imparts the onion flavour to soups and
sauces, for chops, steaks, or broiled meats,
hashes, &c. more agreeably than any:
it does not leave any unpleasant taste in
the mouth, or to the breath; nor repeat,
as almost all other preparations of garlic,
onion, &c. do. N. B.—An ounce of scruped
horseradish may be added to the above, and
a little thin-cut lemon-peel.
ESPAGNOLE. Take an old fowl, and
about fourteen pounds of le^ or shoulder of
veal; chop the latter into pteces, and put it,
with very little water, into a large saucepan,
with two carrots, three onions, a pound of


FI L
FI S
73
ham, a few peppercorns, a small quantity of
spice, and a clove of garlic; let this stew
over a moderate ftre, shaking it frequently
till it becomes of a brown color, when you
may add to it a sufficient quantity of hut
water, to come about four inches above the
meat. Set it by the side of the stove to boil
gently, skimming when necessary, till the
meat comes from the bones; then strain it
through a silk sieve, and set it by for use.
ESSENCE. Take half a bottle of white
wine, half a glass of the best vinegar, the
juice of two lemons, three ounces of salt,
half an ounce of whole pepper, a- little nut-
meg and mace, four cloves, four bay-leaves,
thyme, parsley, one small clove of garlic, ten
shallots, pounded, and an ounce of dry mush-
rooms; put all these ingredients into an
earthen pan, over a brisk fire; when near
boiling, lessen the fire, and let it stand
on hot ashes for six or seven hours; then
strain it through a coarse sieve, and after-
wards filter it. Keep it in closely corked
bottles: a small quantity is sufficient to fla-
vour a dish.
F.
FANCHONETTES. Put into a sauce-
pan, two ounces of flour, three of sugar, one
of butter, two of pounded almonds, some
green lemon-peel, two yolks, and one whole
egg, a little salt, and half a pint of milk;
put these ingredients on the fire, and let them
set like a cream; line some tartlet-tins, or
moulds, with puff paste, fill them with the
preparation; place the moulds on a tin, and
bake the fanchonettes in a brisk oven; when
about three parts done, take them out, put
frothed eggs on, sprinkle sugar over, and re-
place them in the oven to finish the baking.
FAWN, Like a sucking pig, should be
dressed almost as soon as killed. When
very young, it is trussed, stuffed, and spit-
ted the same way as a bare: but they are
better eating when of the size of a house
lamb, and are then roasted in quarters; the
faind-quarter is most esteemed.
JTbey must be put down to a very quick
fire, and either basted all the tune they are
roasting, or be covered with sheets of fat
bacon; when done, baste it with butter, and
dredge it with a little salt and flour, till
yon make a nice froth on it.
N. B,—We advise our friends to half
roast a fawn as soon as they receive it, and
then make a hash of it.
Send up venison sauce with it.
FILBERT ROLLS. Having peeled
half a pound of filberts, put them into a
preserving pan over a moderate fire, and
stir them constantly with a spatula until
they become equally colored of a light yel-
low: then set them to cool. When cold,
pound them with a little white of egg to a
paste; then mix them with half a pound of
flour, the same of powder sugar, and the
yolks of four or five eggs, and then finish
the operation as directed for almond rolls.
Froth, and trace on the surface an ear of
wheat, or anything else, with the point of a
knife: take care to dry them well in the
baking, that they may lie crisp. Coarse
powder sugar may also be strewed over, be-
fore they are put in the oven.
FISH. IVe insert all the best remarks
that various culinary authors have made
on Ftsh.
There is a general rule in choosing
most kinds of fish; if their gills are red,
their eyes plump, and the whole fish stiff,
they are good; if, on the contrary, the gills
are pale, the eyes sunk, and the fish flabby,
they are stale. The greatest care should
be taken that the fish is properly cleansed
before being dressed, but not washed be-
yond what is absolutely necessary for clean-
ing, as by perpetual watering, the flavour
is diminished. When clean, if the fish is
to be boiled, some salt, and a little vinegar
should be put into the water, to give it
firmness. Care should be taken to boil the
fish well, but not to let it break. Cod,
whiting, and haddock are much better for
being a little salted, and kept-for a day.
There is often a muddy smell and taste at-
tached to fresh-water fish, which may be
got rid of by soaking it, after it has been
thoroughly cleaned in strong sail and wa-
ter; or, if the fish is not too large, scald it
in the same; then dry, and dress it.
Care should be taken that the fish is put into
cold water, and allowed to do very gently,
otherwise the outside will break before the
inside is done.
Crimp fish must be put into boiling water;
and as soon as it boils up, a bttle cold
water should be put in, to check the exces-
sive heat, and simmer it for a few minutes.
If the fish is not taken out of the water
the instant it is done, it will become wool-
ly; to ascertain when it is ready, the fish
plate on which it is dressed may be drawn
up, and if sufficiently done, it wtll leave the
bone. To keep hot for serving, and to
prevent it from losing its color, the fish
plate should be placed crossways over the
fish-kettle, and a clean cloth put over the fish.
Small fish may be either nicely fried
plain, or done over with egg and bread
crumbs, and then fried. Upon the dish on
which the fish is to be served, should be


FI S
FIS
74
placed a folded damask napkin, and upon
this put the fish, with the liver and roe;
then garnish the dish with horse-radish,
parsley, and lemon. Fish is a disn which
ts almost more attended to than any other.
To fry or broil fiajt properly, after it
is well cleaned and washed, it should be
wrapped in a nice soft cloth, and when
perfectly dry, wetted with egg, and sprink-
led all over with very fine bread crumbs; it
will look still better to be done over with
egg and crumbs a second time. Then leav-
ing on the fire a thick-bottomed frying-pan,
with plenty of lard or dripping, boiling hot;
put the fish into it, and let it fry tolerably
quick till it is done, and of a nice brown
yellow. If it is done before it has obtained
a nice brown color, the pan should be drawn
to the side of the fire, the fish carefully
taken up, and placed either upon a sieve
turned upwards, or on the under side of
a dish, and placed before the fire to drain,
and finish browning; if wanted particularly
nice, a sheet of cap paper must be put to
receive the fish. Fish fried in oil obtains a
much finer color than when done in lard or
dripping. Butter should never be used, as
it gives a bad color. Garnish your dish
with a fringe of curled raw parsley, or with
fried parsley.
When fish . is to be broiled, it must be
seasoned, floured, and done on a very clean
gridiron; which, when hot, should be rub-
bed over with suet, to hinder the fish from
sticking. It should be broiled over a very
clear fire, to prevent its tasting smoky, and
great care must be taken not to scorch it.
FISH. This department of the busi-
ness of the kitchen requires considerable ex-
perience, and depends more upon practice
than any other. A very few moments, more
or less, will thoroughly spoil fish; which, to
be aaten in perfection, must never be put
on the table till the soup is taken ofti.
So many circumstances operate on this
occasion, that it is almost impossible to
write general rules.
There are decidedly different opinions,
whether fish should be put into cold, tepid,
or boiling water.
Fish must by no means be allowed to re-
main in the water after it is boiled; if
therefore it should be ready before it can be
sent to table, it must be dished, the cover
put on, and a cloth put over it. The dish
is then to be set across the fish-kettle.
Fish should be fried over a clear quick
fire; and with dripping, or hog's lard in
preference to butter. The pan should be
deep; and to ascertain that it is clean, a
little fat is first fried in it, poured out, and
the pan wiped with a clean cloth; as much
dripping or lard is then put in as will en-
tirely cover the fish. When it is boiling
hot, and begins to smoke, the fish is put in;
if small, they may be turned in three or four
minutes, by sticking in a fork near the head
with one hand, and with the other support-
ing the tail with a fish-slice. When they
are done, they should be laid before the
fire upon an okl soft towel, and turned now
and then till they are dry upon both sides;
or they may be put upon a large sieve,
turned upwards, and which is kept for the
purpose, or put on the under side of a dish.
The fire for broiling fish must be very
clear, and the gridiron perfectly clean,
which, when hot, should be rubbed with a
bit of suet. The fish, while broiling, must
be often turned.
Several respectable fishmongers and ex-
perienced cooks have assured the editor,
that they are often in danger of losing their
credit by fish too fresh, and especially tur-
bot and cod, which, like meat, require a
certain time before they are in the best con-
dition to be dressed. They recommend
them to be put into cold water, salted in
proportion of about a quarter of a pound of
salt to a gallon of water. Sea-water is
best to boil sea-fish in. It not only saves the
expense of salt, but the flavor is better. Let
them boil slowly till done; the sign of which
is, that the skin of the fish rises up, and
the eyes turn white.
It is the business of the fishmonger to
clean them, &c. but the careful cook will
always wash them again.
Garnish with slices of lemon, finely scrap-
ed horseradish, fried oysters, smelts, whit-
ings or strips of soles.
The liver, roe, and chitterlings should be
placed so that the carver may observe them,
and invite the guest to partake of them.
Fish, like meat, requires more cooking
in cold than in warm weather. If it be-
comes frozen, it must be thawed by the
means we have directed for meat.
Fish are plenty and good, and in great
variety, in all the towns and cities on the
extensive coast of the United States. Some
of the interior towns are also supplied with
fish peculiar to the lakes and rivers of this
country.
All kinds of fish are best sometime liefore
they begin to spawn; and are unfit for food
for sometime after they have spawned.
Fish, like animals, are fittest for the ta-
ble when they are just full grown; and what
has been said respecting vegetables, applies
equally well to fish.
The most convenient utensil to botl fish
in, is a turbot-kettle. This should be
twenty-four inches long, twenty-two wide,
and nine deep. It is an excellent vessel to
boii a ham in, &c. &c.
N. B.—The l,ver of the fish pounded and


FIS
FLE
75
mixed with butter, with a little lemon-juice,
8tc. is an elegant and inoffensive relish to
fish. Mushroom sauce extempore or the
soup of mock turtle, will make an excellent
fish sauce.
For liquids, you have meat gravy, lemon-
juice, sirup of lemons, essence of anchovy,
the various vegetable essences, mushroom
catchup, and the whites and yolks of eggs,
wines, and the essence of spices.
FISH, NEW mETHOd OF dRESSING.
Take any sort of fish you think proper, be-
ing very careful that it is quite fresh; clean
it thoroughly, dry, and season it to your
taste; then put it (without any moisture),
into a pan, which may be closely covered,
with the exception of a small hole, to allow
of evaporation. Put it into an oven as soon
as tlte bread is drawn, and let it stand until
the whole is so completely dissolved, that
the bones are not perceptible. When cold,
this makes a very transparent, well-flavored
jelly.
FISH CONSOMME. Take carp, tench,
perch, eels, pike, and other fresh-water fish
of the same kind; clean them well, and cut
them into pieces, as near of a size as may
be; lay them in a stewpan, on a layer of
sliced onions and carrots; as soon as they
begin to sweat, put in a bit of butter, and
leave them for a quarter of an hour; mois-
ten them with fish broth, and let them boil
gently for an hour; keep the pan closely
covered; this will afford a very nourishing
broth.
FISH KETCHUP. Take rather more ,
than a pint of vinegar, three pints of red
Port, two table-spoonfuls of pepper, pound-
d very line, plenty of shallots and horse-
radish, the peel of half a lemon, and two or
three bay-leaves, and a pound of anchovies;
let the whole boil together until ihe ancho-
vies are dissolved, then strain, tod when
cold, put it into bottles. Two or three
spoonfuls are sufftcient for a pound of
butter.
FISH FORCEMEAT. Take two oun-
ces of either turbot, sole, lobster, shrimps,
or oysters; free from skin, put it in a mor-
tar with two ounces of fresh butter, one
ounce of bread-crumbs, the yolk of two eggs
boiled hard, and a little eschalot, grated
lemon-peel, and parsley, minced very fine;
then pound it well till tt is thoroughly mixed
and quite smooth; season it with salt and
Cayenue to your taste; break in the yolk
and white of one egg, rub it well together,
and it is ready for use. Oysters parboiled
and minced fine, and an anchovy, may be
added.
FISH GRAVY. (1) Cut two or three
little fish of any kind into small pieces; put
them into a saucepan, with rather more
water than will cover them, a bit of toasted
bread, a blade of mace, some lemon-peel,
whole pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs;
let it simmer gently till it is rich and good;
brown a little bit of butter in a stewpan,
and when it is browned, strain the gravy in-
to it, and let it boil for a few minutes.
FISH GRAVY. (2) Put some slices
of onion into a stewpan, and set them on
the firr; when they are completely dissolved,
add a piece of butter, and some small fult,
or pieces of carp, tench, perch, or any other
you find convenient. As soon as they begin
to dissolve, and give out their moisture, put
a glassful of root broth to them, and boil
them for half an hour; then add a glass of
white wine, and a little lemon-juice, and
boil it another half hour, when it may be
pressed through a sieve, with great force.
FISH RECHAUFFE. (1) After pike,
cod, skate, turbot, soles, or any other white
fish has lieen dressed, pick it from the bones
into small bits; add to a pound of fish, or
in the same proportion, half a pint of good
cream, one table-spoonful of mustard, the
same of anchovy essence, the same of ketch-
up, and of Harvey sauce, a little flour, some
salt, pepper, and butter; make it all hot in
the saucepan, then put it into the dish in
which it is to be served up, strew crumbs
of bread over it, and baste it with butter till
it is a little moist, then brown it with a
salamander, or in a Dutch oven. A wall
of mashed potatoes round the dish is an im-
provement.
FISH RECHAUFFE. (2) Pick from
the bone in large flakes about two pounds
of cold salmon, codfish, or soles; melt a
quarter of a pound of butter in half a pint of
cream, with a little flour and salt; add the
fish and heat it thoroughly.
FISH SAUCE. See Sauces.
FLEMISH WAFERS. Put into a
deep pan half a pound of flour; strain and
mix with it half a pint of warmed milk, and
two table-spoonfuls of fresh yeast; work the
paste till it be soft and smooth, and place it
in a stove, or close to the fire, to rise; then
add the beaten yolks of six eggs, half a
pound of fresh butter beaten to a cream,
and a lump of sugar which has been rubbed
upon the peel of a lemon, and then pounded;
last of all, beat in lightly the well-whisked
whites of the eggs; agam place the pan in
a warm place, and it will rise to nearly
double its bulk. Heat and rub the irons.


FLU
FOR
76
whtch should be square, with a little butter;
fill one side with the mixture, and close
them; when one side is done turn the oth-
er, and when of a line color, take out the
waters; put llmm upon a pLtte, and whilst
hut, sift over this quantity a quarter of a
pound of grated loaf tugar.
FLIP. To make a quart of flip:—Put
the ale on the fire to warm, and beat up
three or four eggs, with four ounces of moist
sugar, a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg or
ginger, and a quartern of good old rum or
brandy. When the ale nearly boils put it
into one pitcher, and the rum, eggs, &c. in-
to another; turn it from one to another till
it is as smooth as cream. This is called a
Yard of Flannel.
FLOATING ISLAND. Boil, with a
pint of milk, a bit of cinuamon, and half the
peel of a lemon; when almost cold, strain it,
and mix with it the beaten white of one, and
the yolks of three eggs; stir it over the fire till
thick, pour it into a dish, and stir it now
and then till cold. Whisk the whites of
two eggs, and half a pint of Guava, quince,
or red currant jelly, till it be a very stiff.
FLOUNDERS BOILED. (1) Put on a
stewpan with a sufficient quantity of water
to cover the flounders which are to be dres-
sed; put in some vinegar and horse-radish;
when the water boils put in the fish, having
been first well cleaned, and their fins cut off;
they must not boil too fast for fear they should
break; when they are sufficiently done, lay
them on a fish plate, the tails in the middle.
Serve them with parsley and butter.
FLOUNDERS BOILED. (2) Wash and
clean them well, cut the black side of them
the same as you do turbot, then put them in-
to a fish-kettle, with plenty of cold water
and a handful of salt; when they come to a
boil, skim them clean, and let them stand
by the side of the fire for five minutes, and
they are ready. Obs.—Eaten with plain
melted butter and a little salt, you have the
sweet delicate flavor of the flounder, which
is overpowered by any sauce.
FLOUNDERS or PLAICE, frted or
botled. Flounders are perhaps the most
difficult fish to fry very nicely. Clean them
well, flour them, and wipe them with a dry
cloth to absorb all the water from them;
flour or egg and bread-crumb them.
FLUMMERY. Steep three large hand-
ills of very small white oatmeal a day and
night in cold water; then pour it off clear;
then add as much more water, and let it
stand another day and a night. Then
strain it through a fine hair sieve, and boil
it till it is of the consistence of hasty pud-
ding, keepmg it well stirred all the time it
is boiling. When first strained, put to it
one large spoonful of white sugar, and I wo
of orange-flower water. Pour it into shal-
low dishes, and serve to eat with wine, ci-
der, milk or cream, and sugar.
FLUMMERY DUTCH. Boil very
gently for half an hour, two ounces of isin-
glass in three half pints of water; add a pint
of white wine, the juice of three lemons and
the thin rind of one, and rob a few lumps
of sugar on another to obtain the essence,
and with them add as much more sugar as
will make it sufficiently sweet; and having
beaten up the yolks of seven eggs, give them
and the above, when mixed, one scald; stir
all the time, and pour the whole into a ba-
sin; stir it till it is half cold; then let it
settle, and put it into a melon shape.
FLUMMERY FRENCH. Beat an
ounce of isinglass fine, put it into a quart of
cream, and boil it gently for a quarter of an
hour, keeping it stirring all the time. Then
take it off, sweeten it with fine powder su-
gar, put in a spoonful of rose and another
of orange-flower water, strain it through a
sieve, and stir it till half cold. Put it into
a mould or basin, and when cold, turn it in-
to a dish, and garnish with currant jelly.
FONDUS. Put some grated cheese into
a basin, with pepper and a l,ttle melted but-
ter, and the yolks of eggs; stir them togeth-
er; whip the whites of the eggs to a firm
froth, and a^fd them, a little at a time, to
the cheeee, stirring lightly with a wooden
spoon; half fill as many paper cases as you
can, and bake them, like biscuits, in a
moderate oven. Serve them as quickly as
possible after they are done.
'FORCEMEAT STUFFING. Force-
meat is now considered an indispensable
accompaniment to most made dishes, and
when composed with good taste, gives ad-
ditional spirit and relish to even that " sove-
reign of savouriness," turtle soup.
It is also sent up in patties, and for stuf-
fing of veal, game, poultry, &c.
The ingredients should be so proportion-
ed, that no one flavor predominates.
To give the same stuffing for veal, hare,
&c. argues a poverty of invention; with a
little contrivance, you may make as great
a variety as you have dishes.
The poignancy of forcemeat should be
proportioned to the savouriness of the viands,
I to which it is intended to give an additional
! vest. Some dishes requtre a very delicate-
ly flavored forcemeat, for others, it must


FOR
FOW
T7
be full and high seasoned. What would be
piquante in a turkey, would be insipid with
turtle.
Most people have an acquired and pecu-
liar taste in stuffings, &c . and what exactly
pleases one, seldom is precisely what an-
other considers the most agreeable.
Custom is all in matters of taste: it is not
that one person is naturally fond of this or
that, and another naturally averse to it; but
that one is used to it, and another is not.
The consistency of forcemeats is rather a
difficult thing to manage; they are almost
always either too light or too heavy.
Take care to pound it till perfectly smooth,
and that all the ingredtents are thoroughly
incorporated.
Forcemeat-balls must not be larger than
a small nutmeg. If they are for brown
sauce, flour and fry them; if, for white, put
them into boiling water, and boil them for
three minutes: the latter are by far the most
delicate.
If not of sufficient stiffness, it falls to
pieces, and makes soup, &e. grouty and
very unstghtly.
Sweetbreads and tongues are the favorite
materials for forcemeat. Forcemeat should
be made sufficiently consistent to cut with a
knife, but not dry or heavy. No one flavor
should predominate greatly; according to
what it is wanted for, a selection may be
made from the following list, being careful
'to use the least of those articles which are
the most pungent:
Cold I'-wl, or veal, scraped ham, fat ba-
con, beef suet, crumbs of bread, parsley,
white pepper, salt, nutmeg, yolks and whites
of eggs, well beaten, to bmd the mixture.
The forcemeat may be ratfe with any
of these articles without any striking flavor;
therefore any of the following different ingre-
dients may be made use of to vary the taste.
Oysters, anchovies, tarragon, savory, pen-
ny-royal, knotted-marjoram, thyme, basil,
yolks of hard eggs, cayenue, garlic, shallots,
chives, Jamaica pepper in fine powder, or
two or three cloves.
To force or stuff turkeys, geese, ducks,
&c., see under the heads of the different
ways of dressing turkeys, geese, &c.
FORCEMEAT. Take an equal quantity
of lean veal scraped, and beef suet shred;
beat them in a marble mortar; add pepper,
salt, cloves, pounded lemon-peel, and nutmeg
grated, parsley and sweet herbs, chopped
fine, a little shallot and young onion, a few
bread-crumbs grated fine, and yolk of egg
sufficient to work it light; roll this into
balls wtth a little flour; if for white sauce,
boil them; if for brown sauce, fry them.
FORCEMEAT BALLS FOR FISH
Soups, or Ftsh stewed. Beat the
flesh and soft parts of a middling stzed lob-
ster, half an anchovy, a large piece of boil-
ed celery, the yolk of a hard egg, a little
Cayenue, mace, salt, and white pepper,
with two table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs,
one spoonful of oyster liquor, two ounces of
butter warmed, two eggs beaten for a long
time; make into balls, and fry them of a
nice brown color in butter.
FORCEMEAT-BALLS for Turtle,
Mock Turtle, or Made Dtshes.
Pound some veal in a marble mortar; rub
it through a sieve with as much of the udder
as you have veal, or about a third of the
quantity of butter: put some bread-crumbs
mto a stewpan, moisten them with milk,
add a little chopped parsley and eschalot,
rub them well together in a mortar till they
form a smooth paste; put it through a sieve,
and, when cold, pound, and mix all togeth-
er, with the yolks of three eggs boiled hard;
season it with salt, pepper, and curry pow-
der, or Cayenne; add to it the yolks of two
raw eggs; rub it well together, and make
small balls: ten minutes before your soup is
ready, put them in.
FOWLS. When a cock is young, his
spurs are short; take care that you are not
deceived by their having been cut or pared,
a trick that is often practised. If fresh
thetr vent will be close and dark. Hens
are best, just before they begin to lay, and
yet are full of egg; if they are old, their
combs and legs are rough.
All poultry should be very carefully pick-
ed, every plug removed, and the hair nicely
singed with paper.
The cook should be careful in drawing
poultry of all sorts, not to break the gall-
bag, for no washing will take off the bttter
where it has touched.
If for roasting, black-legged fowls are
the most moist. A good-sized fowl will
take from three-quarters of an hour to an
hour in roasting, a middling-sized one about
half an hour, and a very small one, or chick-
en, twenty minutes.
Tame fowls require more roasting, and
are longer in heating through than others.
All sorts should be continually basted, that
they may be served with a froth, and appear
of a fine color. The fire must be very quick
and clear before any fowls are put down.
Serve with egg sauce, bread sauce, or gar-
nished with sausages or scalded parsley.
A large barn-door fowl, well hung, should
be stuffed in the crop with sausage-meat,
and served with gravy in the dish, and with
bread sauce.
The head should be turned under the
wing, like a turkey.
7*


row
FO W
78
For boiling, choose those that are not
Dlack-Iegged; pick them carefully, singe,
wash, and truss them. Flour them, and
put them in boiling water; a good-sized
one will be done in half an hour.
Serve with parsley and butter; oyster,
lemon, liver, or celery sauce. If for dinuer,
ham, tongue, or bacon, is commonly served
with them.
Fowls are trussed in the same manuer as
chickens. (See Chickens).
Chickens or fowls should be killed at
least one or two days before they are to be
dressed.
Turkeys (especially large ones) should
not be dressed till they have been killed
three or four days at least., in cold weather
six or eight, or they will neither look white
nor eat tender.
Turkeys, and large fowls, should have
the strings or sinews of the thigbs drawn
out.
Truss them with the legs outward, they
are much easier carved?
FOWL A LA HOLANDAISE. Make
a forcemeat of grated bread, half its quautity
of minced suet, an onion, or a few oysters,
and some boiled parsley, season with pepper,
salt, and grated lemon-peel, and an egg
beaten up to bind it. Bone the breast of a
good-sized young fowl, put in the forcemeat,
cover the fowl with a piece of white paper
buttered, and roast it rather more than half
an hour; have ready a thick batter made of
flour, milk, and eggs, take off the paper, and
pour some of the batter over the fowl; as
soon as it becomes dry add more, and do
this till it is all crusted over, and of a nice
brown color; serve it with melted butter and
lemon pickle, or a thickened brown gravy.
FOWL BOILED WITH RICE. Stew
a fowl in some well-skimmed clear mutton
broth, and seasoned with onion, mace, pep-
per, and salt. About half an hour before it
is ready, put in a quarter of a piut of rice
well washed and soaked. Simmer till ten-
der; then strain it from the broth, and put
the rice on a sieve before the fire. Keep the
fowl hot, lay it in the middle of a dish, and
the rice round it without the broth. The
less liquor the fowl is done with, the better.
Serve with gravy, or parsley and butter for
sauce.
FOWL BROILED. Split them down
the back, well salt and pepper them; then
aroil them. Serve with mushroom sauce.
FOWL CAPILOTADE. Take the re-
mains of a ready dressed fowl, and put
them iuto a stewpan; then do up some
parsley, shallots, and four mushrooms, all
shred small, in a little butter; as soon as the
latter becomes liquid, add four ladlefuls of
espagnole, and two of consomme, reduce,
and skim it; pour it on your fowl, set it on
the fire to simmer for a quarter of an hour,
before you send it to table.
FOWL CURRY. See Curry.
FOWLS DRESSED TO DRESS
again. Cut them in quarters, beat up an
egg or two (according to the quantity you
dress) with a little grated nutmeg, and pep-
per and salt, some parsley minced fine, and
a few crumbs of bread; mix these well to-
gether, and cover the fowl, &c. with this
batter; broil them, or put them in a Dutch
oven, or have ready some dripping hot in a
pan, in which fry them a light brown color;
thicken a little gravy with some flour, put
a large spoonful of catchup to it, lay the
fry in a dish, and pour the sauce round it.
You may garnish with slices of lemon and
toasted bread.
tCF3 Turkey, Goose, Duck, Rabbit,
Pigeon, are all dressed same way.
FOWL, GAME, OR RABBIT hash-
ed. Cut them iuto joiuts, put the trim-
mings iuto a stewpan with a quart of
the broth they were boiled in, and a large
onion cut in four; let it boil half an hour .
strain it through a sieve: then put two table-
spoonfuls of flour in a basin, and mix it
,well by degrees with the hot broth; set it
on the fire to boil up, then strain it through a
fine sieve: wash out the stewpan, lay the poul-
try in it, anApour the gravy on it (through
a sieve); set it by the side of the fire to
simmer very geutly (it must not boil) for
fifteen minutes; five minutes before you
serve it up, cut the stuffing in slices, nnd
put it in to warm, then take it out, and lay
it round the edge of the dish, and put the
poultry in the middle; carefully skim the
fat off the gravy, then shake it round well
in the stewpan, and pour it to the hash.
N. B.—You may garnish the dish with bread
sippets lightly toasted.
FOWL HASHED. Cut a cold roasted
fowl iuto pieces as for a fricassee, put the
trimmings iuto a saucepan with two or three
shallots, a httle lemon-peel, a blade of mace,
a quarter of a pound of lean ham, and a piut
of stock; simmer it for half an hour, strain
it, put a bit of butter iuto a saucepan, and
whea melted, dredge in as much flour as will
dry it up, stirring it all the time; then add
the gravy, let it boil a minute, and put in the
fowl, also a little pepper, salt, and a dust of
sugar. Before serving, squeeze in a little
lemon-juice.


FOW 79 F R A
FOWL MINCED WITH VEAL.
Mince the white part of a cold roasted or
boiled fowl; put it, and some thin slices of
veal, into a saucepan, also some white stock,
a squeeze of a lemon, a few drops of shallot
vinegar, and a dust of sugar; simmer it for
a short time, and serve it upon bread sippets,
with the slices of veal laid on the mince.
FOWL PULLED. Skin a cold chick-
en, fowl, or turkey; take off the fillets from
the breasts, and put them into a stewpan
with the rest of the white meat and wings,
side-bones, and merry-thought, with a pint
of broth, a large blade of mace pounded, an
eschalot minced fine, the juice of half a lem-
on, and a roll of the peel, some salt, and a
few grains of cayenne; thicken it with flour
and butter, and let it simmer for two or
three minutes, till the meal is warm. In the
meantime score the eggs and rump, powder
them with pepper and salt, broil them nicely
brown, and lay them on, or round your pulled
chicken. Three table-spoonfuls of good
cream, or the yolks of as many eggs, will be
a great improvement to it.
FOWL OR RABBIT. We can only
recommend this method of dressing when the
fire is not good enough for roasting. Pick
and truss it the same as lor boiling, cut it
open down the back, wipe the inside clean
with a cloth, season it .with a little pepper
and salt, have a clear fire, and set the grid-
iron at a good distance over it, lay the
chicken on with the inside towards the fire
(you may egg it and strew some grated
bread over it), and broil it till it is a fine
brown: take care the fleshy side is not burn-
ed. ( Lay it on a hot dish, pickled mush-
rooms, or mushroom sauce thrown over it,
or parsley and butter, or melted butter fla-
vored with mushroom ketchup. Garnish it
with slices of lemon; and I he liver and giz-
zard slit and notched, seasoned with pepper
and salt, and broiled nicely brown, with
some slices of lemon.
FOWLS WITH RICE, CALLED
Ptllage. Boil a pint of rice in as much
water as will cover it, with black pepper, a
few blades of mace, and half a dozen cloves,
tied up in a bit of cloth; when the rice is
tender, take out the spice; stir in a piece
of butter; boil a fowl and apiece of bacon;
lay them in the dish, cover them widt the
rice: lay round the dish, and upon the rice,
hard eggs, cut in halves, quarters, and
lengthways, with onions, first boiled, and
then fried.
FOWLS ROASTED. Well pepper
nnd sait the fowls before you spit them;
roast them before a clear fire; froth them
up when nearly done, by sprinkling them
over with flour and salt, and basting them
with butter. When done, be careful in tak-
ing out the skewers. Serve them with very
good clear gravy in the dish, and bread or
egg sauce in a boat.
FOWL ROASTED WITH CHEST-
NUTS. Roast some chestnuts verv care-
fully, so that they may not be burnt, then
take oft' the skins, and peel them. Take
about a dozen of them, cut them small, and
bruise them in a mortar. Parboil the liver
of a fowl; bruise it, and cut about a quarter
of a pound of ham or bacon, and pound it.
Then mix them all together, with a good
quantity of chopped parsley, sweet herta,
some mace, pepper, salt, and nutmeg. When
these are are all well mixed together, put it
into your fowl, and roast it. The hest way
of doing this is to tie the neck, and hang it
up by the legs to roast, with a string, and
then baste it with butter. For sauce, take
the rest of the chestnuts, peel and skin them,
put them mto some good gravy, with a little
white wine; and thicken it with a piece of
butter rolled in flour. Then place your fowl
in the dish; pour in the sauce; garnish with
lemon, and serve.
FOWL WITH ITS OWN GRAVY.
Truss a fowl the same as (or boiling, lard it
quite through with bacon, ham, and pars-
ley; put it in a pan with a little butter, two
or three slices of peeled lemon, a bundle of
sweet herbs, three cloves, sliced onions,
carrots, pcp|ier, salt, a little stock, and a
glass of white wine; stew them gently till
they are done; skim and strain the sauce,
and serve it with the fowl.
FOWL, WILD. The flavor of wild
fowl is preserved better by not stuffing them;
put into each, pepper, salt, and a bit of but-
ter. Wild fowl do not require so much
dressing as tame; they should be done of a
fine color, and nicely frothed. A rich biown
gravy should be served in the dish, and when
the breast is cut into slices, before it is taken
from the bone, it will be much improved by
a squeeze of lemon, some salt and pepper.
If you w ish to take off the flshy smell w hich
these birds frequently have, put an onion,
salt, and hot water into the dripping pan,
and for the first ten minutes baste them with
this; then remove the pan, and keep con-
stantly basting with batter.
FRAISE. See Catfs Chttterlings.
FRANGIPANE. Take a saucepan, and
put into it five spoonfuls of flour, five eggs, a
pint of milk, an ounce of butter and a little
salt; set it on the fire, stirring constantly


FRE
FRl
80
until it has boiled ten minutes, taking great
care that it does not burn; then pour it into
a basin, and let it cool. Take a few al-
monds, (to every six sweet put one bitter),
bruise them, and some macaroons, and when
reduced to powder, mix them with a little
crisped orange-flour (also in powder), and a
sufficient quantity of powder-sugar to sweeten
it: add these to the above preparation, and
stir them in well with a wooden spoon. If
your frangipane be too thick, add another
egg or two, and then make whatever use of
it you may desire. You may, if you think
proper, substitute pistachios for the sweet
almonds, in which case a little spinach es-
sence must be added to color it, the maca-
roons and orange-flowers omitted, and three
bitter almonds only used.
FRENCH BEANS. Cut off the stalk
end first, and then turn to the point and
strip off the strings. If not quite fresh, have
a bowl of spring-water, with a little salt
dissolved in it, standing before you, and as
the beans are cleaned and stringed, throw
them in. When all are done, put them on
the fire in boiling water, with some salt in
it; after they have boiled fifteen or twenty
minutes, take one out and taste it; as soon
as they are tender take them up; throw
them into a colander or sieve to drain. To
send up the beans whole is much the best
method when they are thus young, and their
delicate flavor and color are much better
preserved. When a little more grown, they
must be cut across in two after stringing;
and for common tables they are split, and
divided across; cut them all the same length;
but those who are nice never have them at
such a growth as to require splitting. When
they are very large they look pretty cut into
lozenges.
FRENCH BEANS, NASTURTIUMS,
&c. When young, and most other small
green vegetables, may be pickled the same
way as gherkins.
FRENCH BEANS FOR WINTER
use. Gather them when young, and on a
dry day, put a layer of salt into a jar, and
then tone of about two inches thick of beans;
do this till the jar be nearly full; place a
small plate upon the top of them, and tie a
bladder closely over the jar; keep it in a
cool dry place. When to be used, soak
them a night in cold water, and change it
on them repeatedly in the course of the day
they are to be dressed. Cut them, and put
them on in boiling water.
FRENCH BEANS TO DRESS
drted. Boil for more than two hours, in
two quarts of water, a pound of the seeds or
beans of scarlet runuers; fill a pint basin
with onions peeled or sliced, brown them in
a saucepan, with rather more than a quar-
ter of a pound of fresh butter; stir them con-
stantly; strain the water from the beans,
and mix them with the onions; add a tea-
spoonful of pepper, some salt, and a little
gravy. Let them stew for ten minutes, and
stir m the beaten yolks of two eggs, and a
table-spoonful of vinegar. Serve them hot.
FRENCH SUPPER DISH. Pare off
the crust, and cut one or two slices of bread
into bits of two or three inches square; fry
them in butter; put them upon a hot dish,
and lay upon each bit some warmed preserve,
or stew for a few minutes, in sweet wine
and a little sugar, some stoned bloom raisms,
and put them upon and round the toast.
The preserves may be heated by placing the
jars in hot water by the side of the fire.
FRIARS' CHICKEN. Put four pounds
of a knuckle of veal into four quarts of wa-
ter; boil it gently for two hours; strain it
off; cut three chickens, or two young fowls
into joints; skin them, and when the broth
boils put them in; season with white pepper
and salt; let them boil a short time, and
add a handful of parsley chopped small;
when the chickens are boiled tender, have
ready six or seven well-beaten eggs; stir
them quickly into the broUi one way, imme-
diately before taking it off the fire. This
broth may be made entirely of veal instead
of chickens.
FRICANDELLANS. Mince about two
pounds of tender lean beef, and three-quar-
ters of a pound of fresh suet, then pound it
till it be as smooth as a paste, and carefully
pick out all the threads and sinews; add four
well-beaten eggs, half a pint of rich cream,
and as much grated and sifted bread as will
make it sufficiently consistent to form into
rolls resembling corks, and season it with
salt, and pepper. Boil the corks in some
good stock, or in boiling water.
FRICASSEE BROWN. Take two or
three younit rabbits, cut them in pieces, and
stew them m gravy made of beef, some whole
pepper, two shallots, one or two anchovies,
a bit of horse-radish, and a little sweet mar-
joram powdered small. Stew the rabbits
about a quarter of an hour, then take them
out of the gravy, strain the liquor, fry your
rabbits in lard or butter; add a glass of
claret; you may fry some forcemeat balls,
made with the ltvers of the rabbits parlwiled,
and a little parsley shred small,some nutmeg
grated, pepper, salt, a few bread crumbs,
and two buttered eggs; mix these all to
gether, make them up into balls, dip them


FRI
FRI
81
m the yolk of egg, roll them in flour,
then fry them, and garnish your dish with
them, with fried parsley, and sliced lemon.
FRICASSEE WHITE. Cut a couple
of rabbtts into pieces, and let them soak in
warm water to cleanse them from the bluod;
then lay them in a cloth to dry; put diem
into a stewpan with milk and water,and let
them stew till they are tender, and then take
a clean pan, and put into it half a pint of
cream, and a quarter of a pound of butter;
Btir them well together till the butter is melt-
ed; lie careful to keep it constantly stirring,
or it will be greasy; put in the rabbits, take
a little dried mace, a little pounded nutmeg,
and a few mushrooms; shake them together
for a few minutes, and then put it to the
rabbits. You may add white wine if you
choose.
FRIED TOASTS. Cut the crumb of
a twopenuy loaf Into round or oblong pieces,
nearly an inch thick, and soak them for four
or ftve hours in a pint of cream, mixed with
three well-lieaten «g^s, half a pint of white
wine, a little grated nutmeg, and sweetened
with pounded loaf sugar. Fry thom in but-
ter, till of a light brown color, and serve
with wine and sugar sauce.
FRITTERS. (1) Make them of any of
the batters directed for pancakes, by dropping
a small quantity into the pan, or make the
plainer sort, and put pared apples sliced and
cored in the batter, and fry some of it with
each sltce. Currants or sliced lemon, as
thin as possible, are very nice.
FRITTERS. (2) Fritter*should be sent
to table served upon a folded napkin in the
di:-h. Any sort of sweetmeat, or ripe fruit,
may lie made into fi itters.
FRITTERS, ENGUSH-AND-
FRENCH. Take a marrow putMing, and
when nearly cold, cut it into thin shces, and
then cut them again into pieces two inches
long, by three-quarters of an inch wide, dip
them into batter, and fry them in the usual
manuer; when drained, glaze them with line
sugar, and serve them very hot. The batter
for the above frttters is made as follows:—
Put a glass and a half of water, a grain of
salt, and two ounces of fresh butter into a
saucepan; when it boils stir in a sufficient
quantity of flour to make it a rather firm
batter, keep it stirring three minutes, then
pour it into another vessel.
FRITTERS A LA DAUPHINE.
Take a pound of brioche paste, and roll it
out as thin as possible, to the form of a long
square; on part of this by smali quantities
| of apricot marmalade at intervals, slightly
1 wet the paste round each piece of preserve,
and lay over the plain part of the paste so as
; to cover the other completely, press it down
I lightly that the marmalade may not escape
: in the cooking, and cut out your fritters
! with a circular paste-cutter of two inches in
! diameter; flour them a little, and then lay
them in rather a hot friture, when the paste
will swell them into little balls; as soon as
they are of a proper color take them out,
dr a in them on a napkin, sprinkle them with
fine sugar, and serve them.
FRITTERS A LA COTE. Soak in
brandy some leaves and the young and ten-
der shoots of the vine, dip them in a batter
made of milk, yolks of eggs, and flour, fry
them in boiling oil, sprinkle them with su-
gar. Elder flowers are made into fritters in
the same manuer.
FRITTERS AU BLANC. Mix to-
gether a handful of rice-flour and some milk,
set them on the fire, stirring constantly, add
a little cream, sugar, lemon-peel, and orange-
flowers; when it has become of a prolier
consistence, take it from the fire; as soon
as it is cold, roil it into balls about the size
of a nut, dip them in batter and fry them.
FRITTERS BLONDIN. Put some
butter into a saucepan, and when it is melt-
ed add to it a glass of milk, and a pinch of
salt, keep it on the fire till it boils; then
mix in a sufficient quantity of flour to make
it into a consistent paste, which will not
stick to the fingers; spread it on a table,
roll it out to the thickness you may require,
cut it in round, oval, or any other formed
pieces you may think proper, and fry them of
a nice color, in the best oil; sprinkle sugar
over, and serve them.
FRITTERS, FRENCH, OF BRAN-
DY FRUITS. Take a dozen apricots
(or other fruits) preserved in brandy, drain,
and cut them in half: then wrap them in wa-
fers cut round and previously moistened, dip
them in the same kind of fiatter as that used
for fritters JEnglish-and-French, and fry
them; sprinkle them with sugar, and serve.
FRITTERS EN SURPRISE. Take
eight middling-sized apples, pare, and leave
on the stalks; cut off about a fourth part of
the stalk end of each apple, and scoop out
the inside of each piece, so as to form a sort of
cup with a lid; put them to soak for two hours
in a glass of brandy with a little lemon-peel
and cinuamon; at the end of that time take
| them out, drain, and fill each apple with
I apricot marmalade, or frangipane; mix up
| a little flour and white of egg to cement the


FRO 82 FRU
tops of the apples to the other parts; dip
them in hatter and fry them. When they
are of a proper color, glaze and serve them.
FRITTERS MIGNON. Put two good
spoonfuls of flour into a stewpan, and mix
it with the whites and yolks of two eggs, a
little salt, two ounces of sugar, some lemon-
peel grated, half a tea-spoonful of milk, and
half a tea-spoonful of cream; stir it over a
slow fire, and, when done and well thicken-
ed, spread the cream upon a floured dish,
shake flour over it, and, when cold, cut it
into bits with a paste-cutter, dip each bit
into a |«tste made with two spoonfuls of
flour, a s|xkwful of brandy, and a little salt,
mixed with two eggs; fry the fritters, and
serve, glazed with sugar and a salamander.
FRITTERS, ROYAL. Put a quart of
new milk into a saucepan, and as soon as it
begins to boil, pour in a pint of white wine;
then take it ofl', and let it stand five or six
minutes, skim off the curd, and put it into a
basin; beat it up well with six eggs, and
season it with nutmeg; then beat it with a
whisk, and add flour sufficient to give it the
ptoper consistence of batter. Put in some
sugar and fry them quick.
FRITTERS, SOUFFLES. Make
some flour and beer into a batter that will
flow a little; take a little of it out with a
spoon, throw it into a frying-pan with boil-
ing oil; the moment it rises, take it out,
and proceed in the same way till all the bat-
ter is used; then sprinkle them with salt,
and serve.
FROMAGE CUIT. Cut half a pound
of Cheshire cheese into thin bits, and pound
it in a mortar; add by degrees the well-
beaten yolks of two, and the white of one
egg, and half a pint of cream; mix it well
together and bake it for ten or fifteen min-
utes.
FROST OR ICING FOR CAKES.
Beat till very light the whites of four eggs,
antf add gradually three-quarters of a pound
of double-refined sugar, pounded and sifted
through a lawn sieve; mix in the juice of
half a lemon; beat it till very light and
white; place the cake before the fire, pour
over it the icing, and smooth over the top
and sides with the back of a spoon.
FROTH to put on Cream, Cus-
tard, or Trtfle. Sweeten half a pound
of the pulp of damsons, or any other sort of
scalded fruit; put to it the whites of four
eggs beaten, and beat the pulp with them
till it will stand as high as you wish, and
being put on the cream, &c. with a spoon,
it will take any form; it should be rough,
to unitate a rock.
FRUIT, CANDIED. (1) It must first Ixs
preserved, then dipped in warm water, dried
with a cloth, and strewed all over with sitl-
ed sugar, and dried in a stove or oven, turn-
ing as occasion requires.
FRUIT, CANDIED. (2) When the
fruit is preserved, dry it in a stove till the
sirup is quite out, dip it into sirup boiled to
candy height, and dry it again. All dried
and candted fruit must be kept in a very
dry place.
FRUIT IN JELLY. Have in readmess
a plain mould, either long or round, about
three inches deep; then have ready some
mould jelly, and spread it at the bottom
of the mould, about a quarter of an inch
thick; let it be cold; then put in ripe peach-
es, grapes, or any sort of ripe fruit you
please, preserved fruit, or China oranges
cut into quarters, or whatever shape you
choose; put in a little warm jelly, and let it
stand till it is cold, to fasten the fruit in its
place, otherwise it will rise up; then fill the
mould up with warm jelly, let it stand till it
is quite cold, then turn it into a dish, and
garnish it according to your own taste.
FRUIT, PRESERVED, REMARKS
ON ustng. Preserved fruits should not be
ba|ted long; those that have been preserved
with their full proportion of sugar, require
no baking; the crust should be baked in a
tin shape, and the fruit be afterwards added;
or it may be put into a small dish or tart-
pans, and the covers be baked on a tin cut
out according to your taste.
FRUIT, TO PrEPARE For BRANdY.
Take the proposed quantity of fruit, gather-
ed before they are perfectly ripe; dry them
carefully, pricK and put them into cold water;
when all in, set the vessel over a moderate
fire, keeping the water, however, constantly
nearly boiling, until the fruit will give to the
touch; then throw them, with great care,
into cold water again; drain away this wa-
ter, and add fresh; change the water twice
more within a quarter of an hour, after
which, drain them for the last time, and put
them in bottles; if any of the fruit is the
least broken or bt uised, it must be put aside,
as it would spoil the rest. In the mean-
while, take a proper quantity of sugar (as a
pound and a half for twenty-five peaches),i
clarify and boil it to la nappe; measure,
and put double its quantity of good brandy;
mix and pour them into a glazed pan; let
them stand awhile, and then pour the mix-
ture on the fruit.


GAM
GAM
83
FRUIT TO PREPARE FOR CHIL-
DREN. Put apples sliced, or plums, cur-
rants, gooseberries, &c. into a stone jar, and
sprinkle as much Lisbon sugar as necessary
among them; place the jar on a hot hearth,
or in a saucepan of water, and let it remain
ttll the fruit is perfectly done. Slices of
bread or rice may be stewed with the fruit,
or the fruit may be eaten with slices of dry
bread, or with rice, plain boiled.
G.
GAME. In choosing venison, the fat of
that which is good is thick, clear, and bright;
the clift part smooth and close. When the
venison is perfectly fresh, it is hung in a cool
place, and carefully wiped dry every day.
When extreme tenderness is required from
long keeping, but without its having a high
flavor, it is well rubbed over with powdered
charcoal.
The haunch is the prime joint, and when
it is required to be roasted, it is first well
washed in lukewarm milk-and-water, and
then made quite dry before it is spitted. It
is then covered with a sheet of well-buttered
white paper, over which is laid a coarse
paste of flour-and-water, about a quarter of
an inch thick; this is again covered with
buttered white paper, and tied on with pack-
thread. A substanttal ftre being made, the
haunch is put down, and constantly basted
with fresh beef dripping, till nearly done,
when the paste is taken off, the meat well
basted with butter, and lightly dredged with
flour, till it froths and becomes of a fine light
brown color. It is served with its own gra-
vy in the dish, if there be enough of it; also
a sauce tureen of good brown gravy, and
one of currant jelly sauce beat up, and melt-
ed with a little Port wine and sugar.
A large haunch takes about four hours to
roast.
A neck and shoulder, when roasted, is
managed in the same way as the haunch,
omitting the paste; but it ts more frequently
used fur soups, pasties, and collops.
Hare.—When fresh, the body is stiff;
and if young, the claws are smooth and
sharp, the ears tender and easily torn.
Hares are kept from a week to a fortnight
for roasting; but for soup, they canuot have
been too recently killed.
Rabbits are chosen by the same rules as
hares.
Wild fowf, in general, is chosen by the
same rules as tame poultry. The birds
should be plump and fat, and hard in the
vent. If the skin comes off when rubbed
hard with the finger, they are stale. Old
birds improve by keeping for sometime;
young birds are best if dressed soon; and
small birds, of all descriptions, .should be
immediately dressed. In warm weather, a
stopper of charcoal should be put into the
vent of all game, and a string tied tightly
round the neck.
To roast pheasants and partridges, they
are picked, cleaned, and nicely singed; a
slit is made in the back part of the neck, and
the craw taken out, leaving on the head, the
feet twisted closely to the body, the claws
cut off, and the head turned under the wing.
Both sorts are roasted by the directions for
roasting a turkey or a fowl. A pheasant is
served with gravy in the dish; partridges
with a gravy, or laid upon buttered toast,
and melted butter poured round them. Bread
sauce is served with both. A pheasant will
require nearly an hour to roast; partridges
half an hour. Guinea and pea-fowl are
roasted in the same way as pheasants.
To roast black-cock, follow the directions
for roasting pheasants and partridges; it
will require an hour, and is served with gra-
vy in the dish, and bread sauce in a sauce
tureen.
Moorfowl are roasted in the same manuer,
and require three-quarters of an hour. They
may be served upon buttered toast, or with
gravy in the dish, and bread sauce in a sauce
tureen.
To restore tainted game or poultry, pick
it carefully, clean, and wash it, then put into
each bird a little newly-made pounded char-
coal, tied in a bit of muslin. Before serving,
take out the bag, which will have a most
offensive smell, while the bird will be left
perfectly sweet.
To roast wild duck.—It should be roasted
by a quick fire, well basted with butter, and
browned. It will require nearly three-quar-
ters of an hour, and when to be served, some
beef gravy is poured through the duck into
the dish, and in a sauce ttx'een some hot
Port wine is served. The carver makes
four cuts along the breast, it is then sprin-
kled with salt and a little Cayenue, the juice
of half a' lemon is squeezed over it, and the
Port wine is then poured all over.
To roast a wild goose, the same directions
are fullowpd as for wild duck, allowing
more time to roast it, according to the size
of the bird.
Widgeons and tea| are dressed in the
same manner as the wild duck, and are
roasted in ten minutes, and may be served
upon fried bread crumbs.
Woodeocks and snipes are roasted with-
out being drawn; a piece of toasted bread
buttered is put under each bird, to catch the
trail; they are well basted with butter, and
served upon the hot toast over which they
were roasted; a rich brown gravy, or melt-
ed butter, is poured round thcat. Wood


GAM
GAT
84
cocks will require half an hour, snipes and
quails fifteen or twenty minutes to roast.
Ortolans and gieen plovers are not drawn,
and are roasted and served in the same
manuer as woodeocks.
To roast larks, wheatears, and oiher
small birds, they are nicely picked, gutted,
cleaned, and trussed; brushed over with
melted butter, and rolled in grated bread,
then spitted on a bird spit, whtch is fastened
upon a larger one. They are basted with
butter, and sprinkled with some bread
cnnubs. Thev will require nearly ftfteen
minutes to roast, and are served upon fried
bread crumbs, and brown gravy in a sauce
tureen.
Wild pigeons may be roasted, or made
into a pie.
Plovers' eggs are boiled hard, and served
in a napkin, or with green moss put round
each in the dish.
GAME, ESSENCE OF. Take four
rabbits, four partridges, two pounds of veal,
two pounds of steaks; put them into a
stewpan, with a bottle of white wine; boil
them until the whole is entirely reduced to
a jelly; then add to it broth, and consomme,
(equal quantities of each), eight carrots, ten
onions, three cloves, a little thyme and ba-
sil; let the whole boil very gently, until the
meat is quite done; then strain it through a
napkin. No salt need be put into it, as the
broth and consomme are sufficiently season-
ed to flavor the essence of game.
GAME FRITTERS. Take any of
those parts of cold roasted game, which can
be cut into thin slices, dip them into good
batter, and fry them in olive oil, or lard.
Sprinkle the frttters when done, with salt
and spices, pounded very fine.
GAME HASHED. See Fowl.
GARLIC BUTTER SAUCE. Pound
half a dozen cloves of garlic; rub them
through a silk sieve, with a wooden spoon;
put this into a mortar with some butter, and
beat it until thoroughly incorporated; then
put this butter into any sauce you please.
GARLIC, ESSENCE OF. Take an
earthen skillet, place it on the fire, and put
into it a lwttle of white wine, half a glass of
vinegar, the juice of two lemons, six cloves
of garlic, the same nurajber of cloves, the
quarter of a nutmeg, and two bay-leaves:
when near boiling, reduce the fire, and let it
stand on hot ashes for seven or eight hours;
stram it through a coarse sieve, and then
filter it. Keep it in very closely corked
bottles. A very small quantity of this es-
sence is requisite to impart its flavor to a dish.
GARLIC GRAVY. Slice a pound and
a half of veal, or beef; season it with pep-
per and sah; put it into a stewpan, with
two carrots split, and four cloves of garlic
sliced, a quarter of a pound of sliced ham,
and a large spoonful of water - put the stew-
pan over a gentle fire, and watch when the
meat begins to stick to the pan; when it
does, turn it, and let it be very well browned,
(but take care that it is not in the least
burnt); then dredge it with flour, and pour
in a quart of broth, a bunch of sweet herbs,
a couple of cloves bruised, and slice in a
lemon; set it on the fire again, then let it
simmer gently for an hour and a half longer;
then skim oft' the fat, and strain off the gra-
vy, by pouring it through a napkin, strain-
ing and pressing it very hard.
GATEAU DE COMPIEGNE. Take
three pounds of flour, two pounds of butter,
an ounce and four drachms of yeast, an
ounce of salt, a quarter of a pound of sugar,
a glass of cream, twelve yolks and twelve
whole eggs, and five or six spoonfuls of
whipped cream.
With these ingredients proceed as follows:
sift the flour, of which put a fourth part on
the slab, make a hole in the middle, put into
it a glass of warm water and the yeast; mix
them together as lightly, and with as much
despatch as possible, adding more warm
water if necessary; when well worked up
for some minutes, gather it together, (it
ought to leave the slab and the hand freely),
put it into a saucepan; cover it, and place
it in a tolerably warm situation to rise.
Take the rest of the flour, lay it on the slab
make a hole in the middle of it, in which
put the salt, sugar, and cream; stir these
together well, and then put in the eggs, one
at a time, (break them into a basin, in case
all should not be good;; the eggs being put
in, add by degrees the butter, stirring them
well; then mix the flour, a ltttle at a time,
with the above, until the whole is formed
into a smooth paste; more eggs must be
added if it be too stiff; work it up a little,
and then add the leaven; work that in; and
lastlyi put in the whipped cream. The
whole operation being thus performed, have
ready a cylindrical fluted mould, (about
eight inches in diameter, and nine in height);
butter it by means of a sponge, being care-
ful that it is done in all parts, otherwise the
gateau will adhere to it; place the mould
in a moderately warm place, but where
there is a free current of air. When the ga-
teau has risen so as to fill the mould, and
the surface is a little inflated, it should be
put into the oven instantly, if not, it falls and
becomes heavy. The oven must be of a
moderate heat, and kept closed while the
gateau is baking; take it out in about an


GHE
GIN
85
faouti and if it be flexible and light colored,
replace it for thirty or forty minutes; but
if, on the contrary, it is red, and firm to the
touch, place a tin plate on the top, and put
it in the oven till done; remove the mould
with care, and the gateau is finished. If
the mould does not come away quite so well
as it ought, strike it gently with a spatula.
When taken out, put it in the oven for a few
minutes to dry.
This gateau is sometimes varied by the
addition of stx ounces of sugared auise, and
dte same quantity of dry currants.
GATEAU DE POMMES. Boil in a
pint of water one pound and a half of loaf
sugar till it become a rich sirup; weigh
two pounds of apples after they have been
peeled, cored, and cut small; boil them in
the sirup with the grated peel and juice of a
large lemon till they are reduced to a pulp;
put it into a mould. The following day
serve it, turned out m a gloss dish, with a
rich custard.
GERMAN PUFFS. (1) Mix very well
with two large table-spoonfuls of flour, a quar-
ter of a pint of cream, two well-beaten eggs,
and a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg, a very
little salt, and one ounce of butter beaten to
a cream; bake it in buttered cups for twen-
ty or thirty minutes; turn them out upon a
dish, and serve them instantly; pour a sweet
sauce round them.
GERMAN PUFFS. (2) Beat to a
cream a quarter of a pound of fresh butter,
blanch and pound one ounce of sweet almonds
with a little rose water, lieat five yolks and
three whites of eggs; mix all together with
two large table-spoonfuls of flour, and sweeten
it with pounded loaf sugar; bake it in but-
tered cups, and serve them with a sweet
sauce.
GHERKINS or cucumbers-ptck-
leu. Choose gherkins very green and
straight, brush, and place a layer in a pan,
sprinkle them with fine salt, then another lay-
er of gherkins, which sprinkle with salt also,
and continue this operation until you have
used nearly a bushel of gherkins, leave them
in the salt fur twenty-four hours, which will
draw all the water from them; at the end
of that time drain and place them in ajar,
with a handful of allspice, the same of tarra-
gon, a little balm, ten shallot?, six cloves of
garlic, two or ihree long peppers, twenty
cloves, a lemon cut in quarters, and two
small handfula of salt. Boil two gallons of
the best vinegar, pour it over the gherkins,
and let them stand till the next day, when
boil the vinegar a second time, and pour it
on again; the following day boil the vine-
gar for the third and last time, pour it over
the gherkins, and when quite cold, cover the
jar with a wet parchment.
GIBLET PIE. See Pies.
GIBLETS STEWED. Clean two sets
of giblets, put them into a saucepan, just
cover them with cold water, and set them on
the fire; when they boil, take otl' the scum,
and put in an on ion, three cloves, or two blades
of mace, a few berries of black pepper, the
same of allspice, and half a tea-spoonful of
salt; cover the stew pan close, and let it simmer
very gently till the giblets are quite tender:
tin's will take from one hour and a half to
two and a half, according to the age of the
giblets; the pinions will be done first, and
must then be taken out, and put in againlo
warm when the gizzards are done: watch
them that they do not get too much done:
take them out and thicken the sauce with
flour and butter; let it boil half an hour, or
till there is just enough to eat with the gib-
lets, and then strain it through a tamis mto
a clean stewpan; cut the giblets into mouth-
fuls; put them into the sauce with the juice
of half a lemon, a table-spoonful of mush-
room ketchup; pour the whole into a soup-
dish, with sippets of bread at the bottom.
Ox-tails prepared in the same way are ex-
cellent eating.
GINGERBREAD. Rub one pound of
butter well into three pounds of flour; then
add one pound of powder-sugar, one pound
of treacle, and two ounces of ginger pounded
and sifted very fine; one nutmeg grated very
fine; then warm a quarter of a pint of cream,
and mix all together; you may add carra-
ways and sweetmeats if you choose; make
it into a stifi' paste, and bake it in a slow
oven. If cake or biscuits are kept in pa|ier
or a drawer, they will acquire a disagreeable
taste. A pan and cover, or tureen, will
preserve them long and moist; or if to be
crisp, laying them before the fire will make
them so.
GINGERBREAD, AMERICAN. See
American.
GINGERBREAD WITHOUT BUT-
TER. Mix two pounds of treacle; of or-
ange, lemon, citron, and candied ginger,
each four ounces, all thinly sliced; one ounce
of coriander-seeds, one ounce of caraways,
and one ounce of beaten ginger, in as much
paste as will make a soft paste; lay it in
cakes or tin plates, a«d bake it in a quick
oven. Keep it dry in a covered earthen
vessel, and it will be good for some months.
GINGERBREAD INDIAN. Take


GIN
GIN
SG
twelve ounces of pounded loaf sugar, a quar-
ter of a pound of fresh butter, one pound of
dried flour, two ounces of pounded ginger,
and of cloves and cinuamon a quarter of an
ounce each. Mix tne ginger and the spice
with the flour; put the sugar and a small
tea-cupful of water into a saucepan; when
it is dissolved, add the butter, and as soon
as it is melted, mix it with the flour and
other things; work it up, and form the
paste into cakes or nuts, and bake them
upon tins.
GINGERBREAD, LAFAYETTE.
Five eggs; half a pound of brown sugar; half
a pound of fresh butter; a pint of sugar-house
molasses; a pound and a half of flour; four
table-spoonfuls of ginger; two large sticks of
cinuamon; three dozen grains of allspice;
three dozen of cloves; the juice and grated
peel of two lemons. Stir the butter and su-
gar to a cream; beat the eggs very well;
pour the molasses at once, into the butter
and sugar. Add the ginger and other spice,
and stir all well together. Put in the egg
and flour alternately, stirring all the time.
Stir the whole very hard, and put in the
lemon at the last. When the whole is mix-
ed, stir it till very light. Butter an earthen
pan, or a thick tm or iron one, and put the
gingerbread in it. Bake it in a moderate
oven, an hour or more, according to its
thickness. Take care that it do not burn.
Or you may bake it in small cakes, or lit-
tle tins. Its lightness will be much improv-
ed by a small tea-spoonful of pear lash dis-
solved in a tea-spoonful of vinegar, and stir-
red lightly in at the last. Too much pearl-
ash will give it an unpleasant taste. If you
use pearlash, you must omit the lemon, as
its taste will be entirely destroyed by the
pearlash. You may substitute fur the lem-
on some raisins ana currants, well floured
to prevent their sinking.
GINGERBREAD NUTS. (1) Take four
pounds of flour, half a pound of sifted sugar,
an ounce of caraway-seeds, half an ounce
of ginger pounded and sifted, six ounces of
fresh butter, and two ounces of candied or-
ange-peel cut into small slices; then take a
pound of treacle or honey, and a gill of
cream, make them warm together; mix it,
wtth all the ingredients, into a paste, and
let it lay six hours; then roll it out, make it
into nuts, and bake them in a moderate oven.
GINGERBREAD NUTS. (2) Take
one pound of dried and sifted flour, one
pound of treacle, three ounces of brown su-
gar, four ounces of fresh butter, one ounce
and a half of pounded and sifted ginger, of
candied orange-peel and citron, cut small,
three-quarters of an ounce each; melt the
butter with the treacle, and when it is about
milk-warm, add it to the flour and other
ingredients, and then mix all well together;
with a 'spoon drop the nuts upon buttered
tins, and bake them.
GINGERBREAD NUTS. (3) Dis-
solve a quarter of a pound of butter in three-
quarters of a pound of treacle, put it into a
pan large enough to contain the rest of the
ingredients, and when almost cold, stir in
one pound of dried and sifted flour, half a
pound of coarse brown sugar, half an ounce
of caraway seeds, three-quarters of an ounce
of pounded ginger, and the grated peel of a
lemon; mix all these well together, and let
it stand till it be stiff, or till the following
day, then make it into nuts, \iy pinching it
into pieces with the finger and thumb.
Bake them upon buttered tins in a quick
oven. Half an ounce of coriander seeds
may be added.
GINGERBREAD NUTS. (4) Rub
half a pound of butter into two pounds of
flour; add one pound of coarse'sugar, and
one ounce of pounded ginger; mix all well
together with one pound and two ounces of
treacle; form it into nuts, or roll it out, and
cut it into round cakes; bake them upon
tins.
GINGERBREAD, OATMEAL. Sift
four pounds of oatmeal, and mix with it four
pounds of treacle, half a pound of brown su-
gar, the same quantity of melted butter, and
three-quarters of an ounce of powdered gin-
ger. Work it all well together, let it re-
main for twenty-four hours, and then make
it into cakes.
GINGER BEER. See Beer.
GINGER CAKES. Put four pounds of
flour upon the dresser; then take a copper
saucepan, and break into it six eggs, and
mix them well with a spoon; add one pint
of cream to them, and beat them well; put
the saucepan over the fire, stir till your mix-
ture is warm; put two pounds of butter into
the cream and eggs, and one pound of sugar,
and keep stirring it over a very slow tire,
just to melt all the butter; put in four ounces
of pounded ginger, and as soon as all the
butter is melted, pour it all into the middle
of the flour; mix it as well as you possibly
can, till it becomes a fine paste; then roll it
out with flour under it on your dresser; cut
them to the size of the top of a tea-cup, a
quarter of an inch in thickness; and before
you put them into the oven (which should be
very hot), place three papers under them.
GINGER IMITATION. Peel off the


GL A
GOO
87
outer coat of the tender stems of lettuce that is
short, cut it into bits one or two inches long,
and throw it into cold water; to each pound
put in a tea-spoonful of Cayenue, and a
little salt; let it stand one or two days; al-
low an equal proportion of fine loaf sugar,
which clarify. Soak some good ginger in
hot water, slice it, and add it to the sugar,
allowing one ounce and a half to the pound,
and boil it for fifteen minutes; strain off the
water from the lettuce, and pour over it
the sirup, keeping back the ginger, with
which the sirup must be boiled three times,
and poured over the lettuce, two or three
days intervening between each boiling; and
at last add the strained juice of one or two
lemons.
GLACE, ROYAL. Put the white of a
new-laid egg into a pan, and mix with it a
sufficient quantity of white powder-sugar to
make a glace or icing, neither too dry nor
too liquid; beat it well, and add a little
lemon-juice to whiten it. By mixing with
this glace, carmine, saffron, indigo, spi-
nach-juice, &c.; it will be either rose-col-
ored, yellow, blue, green, &c. according to
your taste.
GLAZE. (1) Take the remains of
any liquor in which meat has been cooked,
and strain it through a silk sieve until quite
clear; then put it into a saucepan and re-
duce it over a brisk fire: as soon as it is
sufficiently done, that is, when it sticks to
the spoon, put it into a smaller saucepan,
and set it in the bain-marie; when wanted,
add a small piece of fresh butter to it, to
correct its saltness.
GLAZE. (2) Make a consomme with
whatever remnants of fowls or meat that may
be in the house; strain it, and then put it on
the fire with two or three whites of eggs
beaten to a snow; stir till it boils, and then
set on the side of the stove, and place fire
on the saucepan lid; as soon as the eggs are
set, pass the glaze through a wet cloth; re-
duce this over a large fi^e, stirring it con-
stantly with a wooden spoon to prevent its
sticking; then pour it into a pot for use.
When wanted, put a small quantity of it in-
to a saucepan, and make it hot over a slow
fire; und, in this state, lay it gently over
such articles i as may require glazing, by
means of a feather.
GLAZE. (3) Desire the butcher to. break
the bones of a leg or a shin of beef, of ten
pounds weight (the fresher killed the tetter);
put it into a soup-pot (a digester is the best
utensil for this purpose) that will well hold
it; just cover it with cold water, and set it
on the fire to heat gradually till it nearly
boils (this should be at least an hour); skim
it attentively while any seum rises; pour in
a tittle cold water, to throw up the scum
thnt may remain; let it come to a boil again,
and again skim it carefully: when no more
scum rises, and the broth appears clear (put
in neither roots, nor herbs, nor salt), let it
boil for eight or ten bows, and then strain
it through a hair sieve into a brown stone
pan; set the broth where it will cool quickly;
put the meat into a sieve, let it drain, make
potted beef, or it will be very acceptable to
many poor fami Iies. Next day ren iove
every particle of fat from the top of it, and
pour it through a tamis, or fine sieve, as
quietly as possible, into a stewpan, taking
care not to let any of the settlmgs at the
bottom of the stone pan go into the stewpan,
which should be of thick copper, perfectly
well tinued; add a quarter of an ounce of
whole black pepper to it; let it lwil briskly,
with the stewpan uncovered, on a quick
fire; if any scum rises, take it off with a
skimmer: when it begins to thicken, and is
reduced to about a quart, put it into a smal-
ler stewpan; set it over a gentler fire, till it
is reduced.
GODIVEAU. Take fillet of veal or
breasts of fowl or game, fresh pork or
sausage meat, lieef-marrow or suet, equal
quanttties of each, veal sweetbreads, truf-
fles, and mushrooms; season these articles
with pepper, cloves, and nutmeg, all in
powder; pound them all together, and
put in (one at a time) the yolks of eggs;
pour in also a little water, pounding con-
tinually, until it is reduced to a sort of paste.
Make a small ball of it, which boil in a
little water to ascertain whether it be suf-
ficiently salt; sweet herbs may be added
when you are about to use it. The godiveau
is used as a farce for tourles and hot pies.
GOOSE, TO CHOOSE. Be careful
in choosing a goose, that the bill and feet
are yellow, as it will be young: when old
the feet and bill are red. When they are
fresh the feet are pliable; if stale they are
dry and stitf. Green geese are in season
from May or June, till they are three months
old; they should be scalded. A stubble
goose is good till it is five or six months
old, and should be picked dry.
GOOSE ROASTED. A stubble goose
should be stuffed with sage and onions,
chopped small, and mixed with pepper and
salt; boil the sage and onion in a little wa-
ter before they are chopped, or mix a few
bread crumbs with them when chopped;
either will render them less strong. Put it
first at a distace from the fire, and by de-
grees draw it nearer A slip of paper


GOO
GR A
83
should be skewered on the breast bone.
Baste it very well. When the breast is
rising, take off the paper, and be careful to
serve it before the breast falls, it will be
spoiled by coming to table flattened. Serve
it with good gravy and apple sauce, in
boats It will take about an hour and a
half to roast.
GOOSE TO TRUSS. The goose must
be first well picked and stubbed, then cut
off the pinions at the first joiut, and the
feet also. Make a slit in the back of the
neck, and take out the throat, cut off the
neck close to the back and the skin, but
leave enough to turn over the back; make a
slit between the veut and the rump, through
which draw out the eutrails, then wipe it
clean. Draw the legs up, keeping them
close to the side, then put a skewer iuto
the wing, through the middle of the leg,
body, and the leg and wing on the other
Bide; put another skewer through the small
of the leg, which keep close to the sidesmen;
run it through, and do the same on the oth-
er side. Cut through the end of the veut,
through which put the rump, to preveut the
sluffing from falling out.
GOOSEBERRY CREAM. Boil one
quart of gooseberries very quick, in as much
water as will cover them: stir in about half
an ounce of good butter; when they are
soft, pulp them through a sieve; sweeten
the pulp while it is hot, with sugar, then
beat it up with the yolks of four eggs; serve
in a dish, cups, or glasses.
GOOSEBERRY FOOL. Put goose-
berries iuto a stone jar, with some fine su-
gar; put the jar either in a stove, or in a
saucepan of water, over the fine; if in a
stove, a large spoonful of water should be
added to the fruit. When it is done to pulp,
press it through a colander; have ready a
sufficieut quautity of new milk, and a tea-
cupful of raw cream, boiled together, or
you may use an egg instead of the cream;
leave it to get cold, then sweeten well with
fine sugar, and mix the pulp by degrees
with it.
GOOSEBERRY MARMALADE. Boil
them a momeut, or only scald them in boil-
ing water, sift them through a sieve; reduce
them over the fire to half, then mix them
with sugar prepared to the niuth degree (a
la grande plume), half a pound of sugar to
a pound of fruit. t
GOOSEBERRY JAM. See Jam.
GOOSEBERRY PASTE. Gather,
when quite ripe, the rough red gooseberries;
top and tail them; put them iuto a jar, tie
it over with bladder, and boil it in a pot
of water till the fruit be perfectly soft; pour
off the th in juice, and with a wooden spoon
rub the gooseberries through a fine hair
sieve; allow rather more than half the
weight of the pulp of pounded loaf sugar,
mix it together, and boil it till it will jelly,
which will take almost two hours; stir, and
skim it, then put it iuto a dish, and serve
when cold, to be eaten with cream. The
thin juice may be boiled with its weight of
good brown sugar, and used as gooseberry
jelly.
GOURDS FRIED. (1) Cut five or six
gourds in quarters; take off the skin and
pulp; stew them in the same manuer as foi
table: when done, drain them quite dry;
beat up an egg, and dip the gourds in it,
and cover them well over with bread-crumbs;
make some hog's-lard hot, and fry them a
nice light color; throw a little salt and
pepper over them, and serve up quite dry.
GOURDS FRIED. (2) Take six oi
eight small gourds, as near of a size as pos-
sible; slice them with a cucumber-slice;
dry them in a cloth, and then fry them in
very hot lard; throw over a little pepper and
salt, and serve up on a napkin. Great at-
teution is requisite to do these well; if the
fat is quite hot they are done in a minute,
and will soon spoil; if not hot enough, they
will eat greasy and tough.
GOURDS STEWED. Take off aU
the skin of six or eight gourds, put them in-
to a stewpan, with water, sale, lemon-juice,
and a bit of butter, or fat bacon, and let
them stew geutly till quite tender, and serve
up with a rich Dutch sauce, or any other
sauce you please that is piquaute.
GRAPES, COMPOTE. Boil a quarter
of a pound of sugar with half a glass of wa-
ter, till it is reduced to a strong sirup; skim,
and then put iuto it a pound of grapes, pick-
ed from the stalks, and the seeds taken out;
give them a boil two or three times, and
then place them in a dessert dish: if there is
any scum upon them, carefully wipe it off
with white paper.
GRAPES, PICKLED. The grapes
must be at their full growth, but not ripe,
cut them in small bunches; put them in a
stone jar, with vine leaves between each
layer of grapes, till the jar is full; then take
as much spring-water as will cover the
grapes and the leaves; as it heats put in as
much salt as will make a brine sufficieutly
strong to bear an egg; you must use half
bay salt and half common salt; when it


GR A
GR A
S9
bolls, skim it; strain it through a flanuel
bag, and let it stand to settle; by the time it
is cold it will lie quite settled; strain it a
second time through a flannel bag; then pour
it into the jar, upon the grapes, which must
be welt covered; fill the jar with vine leaves;
then tie it over with ^ double cloth, and set
a plate upon it; let it stand for two days,
then take oft' the cloth, pour away the brine,
and take out the leaves and the grapes, and
lay them between two cloths to dry; then
take two quarts of vinegar, one quart of
spring-water, and one pound of coarse sugar,
boil it for a short time, and skim it very
clean as it boils; let it stand till it is quite
cold; wipe the jar very clean and dry, lay
some fresh vine leaves at the bottom, between
every bunch of grapes, and on the top; then
pour and strain the pickle on the grapes;
iili the jar; let the pickle be above the grapes;
tie up a thin piece of board in a flanuel, lay-
it on the grapes to keep them under the
pickle; tie them down wtth a bladder, and
over that a leather. Always keep the grapes
under the pickle.
GRATIN. Cut half a pound of fillet of
veal mto dice, and put it into a stewpan
with a piece of butter, a few mushrooms,
parsley, shallots chopped small, salt, pepper,
and spices; stir them up with a wooden
spoon; and when the meat has been on the
fire about a quarter of an hour, take the
drain off the butter, mince it very small, and
put it into a mortar, with fifteen fowl or
game livers, well washed, dried, and par-
boiled, all the bitter parts taken out, pound
them, adding at times as much panada as
you have meat; boil some calPs udder, trim,
and remove all the skin when cold, and put
about a third of the quantity of meat, and
pound them together, adding, one at a time,
three yolks, and three whole eggs; season
with salt, pepper, and spices; when well
pounded, set it by in an earthen pan for
use.
GRAVY. See also Cullis and
Sauces.
GRAVIES, DIRECTIONS respect-
tng.—The skirts of beef and the kidney,
will make quite as good gravy as any other
meat, if prepared in the same manuer.
The kidney of an ox, or the milt, makes
excellent gravy, cut all to pieces, and pre-
pared as other meat; and so will the shank
end of mutton that has been dressed, if much
gravy is not required.
The shank-bones of mutton add greatly to
the richness of gravy; but they should be
first well soaked, and scoured clean.
To obtain the flavor of French cookery,
and to improve the taste of the gravies, tar-
ragon should be used; but it must not be
added till a short time before serving.
GRAVY. (1) Take three pounds of beef
steaks, two rabbits, (excepting the heads
and breasts), a knuckle of veal, five carrots,
six onions, two cloves, two bay leaves, a
bunch of parsley and scallions; put all these
into a stewpan, with two ladlesful of broth,
and set them over a good fire to reduce;
then cover the stove, and let the stewpan
stand over it, until the meat begins to give
out the gravy, and adheres slightly; the jel-
ly at the bottom of the stewpan ought to be
nearly black, and when that is the case,
take it from the stove, and let it stand for
ten minutes; then fill up the stewpan with
good broth, or water, (if the latter, not so
large a quantity); let this simmer for three
hours; skim and season it well. If water
is used instead of broth, the gravy must be
strained before it is used. Gravy may also
be made of any pieces of reacly dressed
meat, in the following manuer: cut some
onions into slices, lay them at the bottom of
the stewpan, and the meat on them, with
the same ingredients as above, and two or
three glasses of water; then proceed in the
same manuer as the other, until the bottom
of the stewpan is nearly black, when add
water according to the quantity of meat;
put salt if necessary, and simmer the whole
for two hours; then strain it through a
sieve.
GRAVY. (2) Cut down into slices four
pounds of lean beef, rub the bottom of the
pot with butter, and put in the meat; turn it
frequently till it be well browned, and do it
slowly, then add four quarts of cold water;
when it has boiled two hours, put in two
dessert-spoonfuls of whole pepper, one car-
rot, and three onions; let it stew gently for
four hours longer, strain it, and when it is
required for use, take off the fat. This gra-
vy answers for all made dishes when brown
gravy sauce is used.
GRAVY AND STUFFING FOR
DUCKS. Boil all the giblets excepting the
liver for an hour in a pint of water with a
chopped onion, some salt and pepper; strain,
and add a very little browning, with a tea-
spoonful of coratch, and one of mushroom
ketchup; for the stuffing, mince the raw
liver with two sage leaves, a small onion,
some pepper and salt, a bit of butter, and
grated bread crumbs.
Send your sauces to table as hot as pos-
sible.
Nothing can be more unsightly than the
surface of a sauce in a frozen state, or gar-
nished with grease on the top. The beat
way to get rid of this, is to pass it through
8r ,


GRA
GRA
90
a tam is or napkin previously soaked in cold
water; the coldness of the napkin will coag-
ulate the fat, and only suffer the pure gravy
to pass through: if any particles of fat re-
main, take them off by applying filtering pa-
per, as blotting paper is applied to writing.
Let your sauces boil up after you put in
wine, anchovy, or thickening, that their fla-
vors may be well blended wtth the other in-
gredients; and keep in mind that the
top-knot of cookery is, to entertain the
mouth without offending the stomach.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. It is of
as much importance that the cook should
know how to make a boat of good gravy for
poultry, &c. as that it should be sent up of
proper complexion, and nicely frothed.
We shall endeavor to introduce to her all
the materials which give flavor in sauce
which is the essence of soup, and intended
to contain more relish in a tea-spoonful
than the former does in a table-spoonful.
We hope to deserve as much praise from
the economist as we do from the bon vivant;
as we have taken great pains to introduce to
him the methods of making substitutes for
those ingredients, which are always expen-
sive, and often not to be had at all. Many
of these cheap articles are as savory and
as salutary as the dearer ones, and those who
have large families and limited incomes, will,
no doubt, be glad to avail themselves of
them.
The reader may rest assured, that wheth-
er he consults this book to diminish the ex-
pense or increase the pleasures of hospitality,
he will find all the information that was to
be obtained up to. 1832, communicated in
the most unreserved and intelligible manuer.
A great deal of the elegance of cookery
depends upon the accompaniments to each
dish being appropriate and well adapted
to it.
We can assure our readers, no attention
has been wanting on our part to render this
department of the work worthy of their pe-
rusal ; each receipt is the faithful narrative
of actual and repeated experiments, and has
received the most deliberate consideration
before it was here presented to them. It is
pen in the most circumstantial manuer,
CA not in the technical and mysterious lan-
wige former writers on these subjects seem
let il'e preferred; by which their directions
into riIess ant^ unintelligible to all who have
tlarly served an apprenticeship at the
GIN;, ,
one poi 06 to very little purpose that I
pound ofi1 so n11'cn pains to teach how to
gar, four tfts and boils, if a cook canuot or
and.5 a half o'e the several sauces that are
candied 0ran\ with them.
three-quarters before, endeavored to give
the plainest directions how to produce, with
the least trouble and expense possible, all
the various compositions the English kitchen
affords; and hope to present such a whole-
some and palatable variety as will suit all
tastes and all pockets, so that a cook may
give satisfaction in all families. The more
combinations of this sort she is acquainted
wlth, the better she will comprehend the
management of every one of them.
Let your sauces each display a decided
character; send up your plain sauces (oys-
ter, lobster, &c.) as pure as possible: they
should only taste of the materials from which
they take their name.
The imagination of most cooks is so in-
cessantly on the hunt for a relish, that they
seem to think they canuot make sauce suffi-
ciently savory without putting into it every-
thing that ever was eaten; and supposing
every addition must be an improvement, they
frequently overpower the natural flavor of
their platn sauces, by overloading them
with salt and spices, &c.: but, remsmber,
these will be deteriorated by any addition,
save only just salt enough to awaken the
palate.
On the contrary, of compound sauces;
the ingredients should be so nicely propor-
tioned, that no one be predominant; so that
from the equal union of the combined fla-
vors such a fine mellow mixture is produced,
whose very novelty canuot fail of being ac-
ceptable to the persevering gourmand, if it
has not pretensions to a permanent place at
his table.
An ingenious cook will form as endless a
variety of these compositions as a musician
with his seven notes, or a painter with his
colors; no part of her business offers so fair
and frequent an opportunity to display her
abilities: sptces, herbs, &c. are often
very absurdly and injudiciously jumbled to-
gether.
Why have clove and allspice, or mace and
nutmeg, in the same sauce; or marjoram,
thyme, and savory; or onions, leeks, es-
chalots, and garlicl one will very well sup-
ply the place of the other, and the frugal
cook may save something considerable by
attending to this, to the advantage of her
employers, and her own time and trouble.
	ZJ^ &ee Sauces and Cullts for
other important particulars.
GRAVIES, ESSENCE OF HAM
FOR. Pick off all the bits of meat from a
ham-bone, pound them, break the bone, and
put ail into a saucepan, together with nearly
half a pint of water, and a bunch of sweet
herbs; simmer gently for sometime, stirring
it occasionally; then add a pint of gocd beef
gravy, and some pepper, and continue to
simmer it till it be well flavored with the


GR A
GR A
91
herbs; strain, and keep it for improving rich
gravies and sauces of all descriptions.
« GRAVY FOR BOILED MEAT, May
be made witb parings and trimmings; or
pour from a quarter to half a pint of the li-
quor in which the meat was boiled, into the
dish with it, and pierce the inferior part of
the joint with a sharp skewer.
GRAVY FOR ROAST MEAT. (1)
Most joints will afford sufficient trimmings,
&c. to make half a pint of plain gravy, which
you may color with a few drops of browning:
for those that do not, about half an hour lie-
fore you think the meat will be done, mix a
salt-spoonful of salt, with a full quarter-pint
of boiling water; drop this by degrees on
the brown parts of the joint; set a dish un-
der to catch it (the meat will soon brown
again); set it by; as it cools, the fat will
float on the surface; when the meat is ready,
carefully remove the fat, and warm up the
gravy, and pour it into the dish.
The common method is, when the meat
is in the dish you intend to send it up in,
to mix half a tea-spoonful of salt in a quarter
pint of boiling water, and to drop some of
this over the corners and underside of the
meat, and to pour the rest through the hole
the spit came out of: some pierce the infe-
rior parts of the joints with a sharp skewer.
The following receipt was given us by a
very good cook:—You may make good
browning for roast meat and poultry, by
saving the brown bits of roast meat or broil-
ed; cut them small, put them into a basin,
cover them with boiling water, and put them
away till next day; then put it into a sauce-
pan, let it boil two or three minutes, strain
it through a sieve into a basin, and put it
away for use. When you want gravy for
roast meat, put two table-spoonfuls-mto half
a pint of boiling water with a little salt: if
for roasted veal, put three table-spoonfuls
into half a pint of thin melted butter.
The gravy whtch comes down in the dish,
the cook (if she is a good housewife) will
preserve to enrich hashes or little made
dishe?, &c.
GRAVY FOR ROAST MEAT. (2)
About a quarter of an hour before the meat
is taken from the fire, put a common dish
with a tea-spoonml of salt in it under the
meat; when it has all run into the dish, re-
move it, baste and froth the meat, and pour
the gravy into the dish on which the roast is
to be served.
GRAVY MADE FROM BONES.
Break into small pieces a pound of beef,
mutton, or veal bones, if mixed together so
much the better; boil them in two quarts of
water, and after it boils, let it simmer for
nearly three hours: boil with it a couple of
onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, some salt
and pepper; stram, and keep it for making
gravy or sauces. The bones of broiled and
Boasted meat being scraped, washed clean,
and boiled in less water, answer equally well
for this purpose.
GRAVY MADE WITHOUT MEAT.
(1) Slice three onions, and fry them brown
in a little butter; add them to half a pint
of water, and the same of beer, put in some
peppercorns, salt, a little lemon peel, three
cloves, a ltttle mace or pepper, a spoonful
of walnut pickle, and one of mushroom
ketchup, of soy and essence of anchovy a
dessert-spoonful each, a small bunch of sweet
herbs, and'a quarter of a slice of bread
toasted brown on both sides; simmer all to-
gether in a closely covered saucepan for
twenty minutes, then strain it for use, and
when cold take. off the fat. It will taste
exactly like a gravy made with meat.
GRAVY MADE WITHOUT MEAT.
(2) Knead a good deal of flour into a piece
of butter the size of an egg, fry it in a fiy-
ing-pan over a clear fire, stir it constantly
wtth a wooden spoon till it become a nice
browu color, taking particular care that it
be made perfectly smooth; pour in some
boiling water, add a little finely-minced on-
ion, some whole pepper and.a little salt, put
it into a small saucepan, cover it closely,
and simmer it for a short time; strain, and
mix with it a little mushroom ketchup, and
Port wine.
GRAVY OR RICH CULLIS. Cut
into slices some lean beef, veal, and mutton,
cover the bottom of the saucepan with the
veal, then put in a few slices of salt pork,
next a layer of beef, add a few onions sliced,
and the red part of one or two -carrots, a
little mace, two or three cloves, some whole
pepper, and two or three bay-leaves, above
that the mutton; cover the pan closely, set it
on a slow fire, and when the meat is a fine
brown, mix quite smooth a small quantity
of flour in water, stir it in, and then add as
much boiling water as will cover the meat
well, and a little salt; cover the pan closely,
and let it stew an hour and a half; strain,
and keep it for use; it will continue good for
eight or ten days.
GRAVY DRAWN. Put a few pounds
of gravy-beef sliced, and a little whole
pepper, into ajar wtth a cover to fit closely;
set the jar into a pot of cold water, and w hen
it boils, add as it wastes more hot water,
and keep it boiling gently for six or seven
hours, when the richest gravy imaginable


GR A
HAM
92
will Ik obtained. It may be used in that j
state, or reduced with water.
GRAVY. TO MAKE A PINT OF
RICH. Brown a quarter of a pound of
butter, dredging in two table-spoonfuls of
flour, and stirring tt constantly; add a pound
of gravy-beef cut into small btts, and two or
three onions chopl«d. When it becomes
brown, add some whole pepper, one carrot,
a bunch of sweet lterbe, and three pints of
water; let it 1wi l gently till reduced to one,
then strain it. This gravy may be served
with roasted turkey or fowl.
GRAVY, TO CLARIFY. Clarify gra-
vy, drawn from beef or veal, with the beaten
whites of egsps, allowing one white to a
quart. Gravtes and soups which are to be
clarified should be made very strong, and be
highly seasoned.
GRAVY AND SAUCE tngredt-
ents. Browning for made dishes.—Put into
a saucepan one pound of good brown sugar,
stir it constantly over a slow fire, boil it
till it is as thick as treacle, and resembles
it in color; take the pan off the fire, stir it
for a minute or two, and pour in very slowly
a quart of boiling water, stirrmg constantly;
put it again on the fire, and boil it for a
little; pour it into a bowl, and when cold,
bottle it. This browning will keep good
for a year, and very little of it serves for
coloring soups, gravtes, or sauces.
To clarify butter.—Put the butter cut into
slices into a nicely-cleaned brass pan, stir it
gently till dissolved: when it boils, draw the
pan to the side of the fire, skim it, and let
tt boil gently a second time, and if any scum
again rises, take it off; let it settle for two
or three minutes, and strain it gently through
a sieve which has a piece of muslin laid
into it.
Fresh beef suet, picked free from skin
and sinews, is dissolved in the same way;
it is then strained through muslin into small
jars, and when cold, covered with bladder,
or it may be strained into cold water; and
the cake when cold, wiped dry, folded in
vhite paper, and kept in a linen bag.
Beef suet will keep fresh for sometime
c'mely chopped and dredged with flour,
wtkept in white paper bags in a cool place,
let ff and mutton drippings are clarified
into nin the manuer butter is done, and
t in a separate jar.
GIN:, hog's-lard, put it into a jar plae-
one po, of water or water bath, strain it
pound oP 'widers or small jars, and cover
gar, four *?kner. Thus prepared, it will
and a half de^th of time, and is the best
candied oran\^h in.
three-quarters ^wash it, pick it clean,
and put it into fresh cold water; take it out
and then throw it into boiling lard or drip-
ping, when it will instantly become crisp;
it is then taken out with a slice.
GRUEL. DR. KITCHENER'S. Ask
those who are to eat it, if they like it
thick or thin; if the latter, mix well togeth-
er by degrees, in a pint basin, one table-
spoonful of oatmeal, with three of cold wa-
ter; if the former, use two spoonfuls.
Have ready in a stew pan, a pint of boil-
ing water or milk; pour this by degrees to
the oatmeal you have mixed; return it into
the stewpan; set it on the fire, and let it
boil for five minutes; stirring it all the time
to prevent the oatmeal from burning at the
bottom of the stewpan; skim and strain it
through a hair sieve.
2d. To convert this into caudle, add a
little ale, wine, or brandy, with sugar; and
if the bowels are disordered, a little nutmeg
or ginger, grated.
Obs.—^lruel may be made with broth in-
stead of water; and may be flavored with
sweet herbs, soup roots, and savory spices,
by boiling them for a few minutes in the
water you are going to make the gruel with.
H.
HAM. If it is a very dry Westphalia
ham, it must be soaked, according to its age
and thickness, from twelve to twenty-four
houre; for a green ham, from four to eight
hours will be sufficient. Lukewarm water will
soften it much sooner than cold, when suffi-
ciently soaked, trim it nicely on the under-
side, and pare off all the rusty and smoked
parts till it looks delicately clean.
Give it plenty of water-room, and put it
in while the water is cold; let it heat very
gradually, and let it be on the fire an hour
and a half before it comes to a boil; let it
be well skimmed, and keep it simmering
very gently: a middling-sized ham of fifteen
pounds wtll be done enough in about four or
five hours, according to its thickness.
If not to be cut till cold, it will cut the
shorter and tenderer for being boiled about
half an hour longer. In a very small family,
where a ham will last a week or ten days,
it is best economy not to cut it till it is cold,
it will be infinitely more juicy.
Pull off the skin carefully, and preserve it
as whole as possible; it will form an excel-
lent covering to keep the ham moist; when
you have removed the skin, rub some bread
raspings through a hair sieve, or grate a
crust of bread; put it into the perforated
cover of the dredging-box, and shake it over


HAM
HAM
93
it, or glaze it; trim the knuckle with a
fringe of cut writing-paper. You may gar-
msh with spitiage or turnips, &c.
To pot ham is a much more useful and
economtcal way of disposing of the remains
of the joint, than making essence of it.
HAM AND EGGS. Cut some ham
into thin slices, and broil them on a gridiron.
Fry some eggs in butter. Serve it, laying
an egg on each slice of ham.
HAM, ESSENCE OF. Take three or
four pounds of lean ham, cut it into pieces
about an inch thick, and lay them in a stew-
pan, with slices of carrots, parsnips, and
three or four onions; let them stew till they
stick to the pan, but take care they do not
burn; then by degrees pour in some good
veal gravy, a few fresh mushrooms cut in
pieces, (or mushroom-powder), truffles, mor-
els, cloves, parsley, leek, basil, and a crust
of bread; cover it close, and simmer till
pretty thick, then strain it off for use.
HAM GRAVY. Take a deep sauce-
pan, put into it a piece of fresh butter, seve-
ral slices of ham, about six pieces of veal
the size of a walnut, and two or three car-
rots cut in small pieces; set these over a
slow fire, and let them stand till they give
out their juices, and the ham and veal be-
come crisp and stick; then put in a little
stock, and let it boil; in an hour's time add
a glass of white wine, leave it a quarter of
an hour, when it will be sufficiently done;
take off every particle of fat; strain it into
a pan, and set it by for use.
HAM LOAF. Soak a fine ham in cold
water for one or two days, according to its
age; then put it into a saucepan just big
enough to hold it, with no more water than
will cover it, and a pint of white wine; let
it boil, skimming it carefully, till done.
When cold, take out the hock and under
bones, and the skin; pare away some of the
fat, and trim it to an oval form as much as
possible. Make a farce with the parings of
the fat, some veal or game, and sweet herbs
minced and pounded. Take a pan the size
you wish to have your loaf, lay all over the
mside a pretty firm paste, and then (hav-
ing cut your ham into thin slices) place al-
ternate layers of it and the farce in the pan,
until it be quite full. Put a crust over the
top, which muiit unite with that in which
the ham is; turn it over on a baking plate,
Hour it, and put it into a very hot oven for
an hour and a half or two hours, according
to its size. Serve it cold.
HAM, mINCEd, WITH FrIEd EGGS.
See Eggs.
HAM OMELET. Take a slice of boiled
ham, mince it as small as possible, and mix
it whh a dozen eggs beaten with a little veal
gravy; fry it (keeping it of an equal thick-
ness) in the usual manuer.
HAM, OR TONGUE POTTED. Cut
a pound of the lean of cold boiled ham or
tongue, and pound it in a mortar with a
quarter of a pound of the fat, or with fresh
butter (in the pro|iertion of about two ounces
to a pound), till it is a fine paste (some sea-
son it by degrees with a little pounded mace
or allspice): put it close down in |wts for
that purpose, and cover it with clarif,ed
butter, a quarter of an inch thick; let it
stand one night in a cool place. Send it
up m the pot, or cut out in thin slices.
HAM ROASTED WITH MADEIRA.
Take a fine Westphalta or Bayonue ham,
pare and trim it of as round a form as possi-
ble, take off the end bone, and remove
the rind from the knuckle; then lay the ham
on a gridiron over the fire, till you can take
it up with ease; soak it, if necessary, and
put it in a pan, with slices of carrots and
onions, thyme, bay-leaf, and coriander; pour
a bottle of Madeira upon it, cover it with a
clean cloth, and close the pan as tight as
possible, and let it remain twenty-four hours;
then wrap the ham in very thick pa|ier, fas-
ten it with paste, so that it may he com-
pletely enclosed, tie it on a spit, ar.d put
it to roast for three hours; then make a
small hole in the paper, and pour in, by
means of a funuel, the Madeira wine, paste
paper over the hole, and let it roast another
hour. When done, take off the pulier care-
fully, so that none of the gravy may escape,
mix it with some reduced espagnole, glaze
the ham, and serve it.
HAM TOAST. Cut some crumb of
bread into thin slices; then take an equal
number of thin slices of ham, Imat them well
with a rolling pin, and then soak them ht
warm water for about two hours; take them
out, dry them well, and put them into a
saucepan with a little bacon, a slice of veal,
and half a glass of stock; let them boil for
half an hour, and then add half a glass of
veal blond. Frv your bread to a nice col-
or m some lard; fay it on a dish, and on each
piece lay a slice of the ham; pour the sauce
over them. Take particular care to cut
the ham as nearly as possible the size and
shape of the bread.
HAM TO STEW. Soak the ham in
lukewaum water for twelve hours, drain it,
and scrape the rind; put it into a stewpan
with some slices of fat bacon round the sides,
four quarts of weak stock, a good deal of


HAR
HAR
94
parsley, a bunch of sweet herbs, six large
onions, four carrots, a little allspice and
pepper, a pint of Madeira, and one of Port
wine. Cover the ham with slices of fat ba-
con, and put over it a sheet of white paper;
stew it eight hours, or ten if it be a very
large ham. Before serving, take off the
rind, strain the sauce, skim it well, and
boil it till reduced to a glaze, and pour it
round the ham, or serve it with any other
sauce that may be preferred.
HAM WITH MADEIRA. Soak in
water for two hours a Bayonue, or any other
fine ham, boil it for two hours, trim it quick-
ly, and then put it into a stewpan, with thin
slices of veal at the bottom; add some car-
rots and parsley, and season with spices.
Pour over the ham a pint of rich stock and
a bottle of Madeira; let it boil for two hours,
strain and skim the fat off the sauce,
which, with the ham, must be served quite
hot.
HARE. As soon as the cook receives a
hare, she should take out the liver, &c., wipe
it well, put in a little pepper, and hang it
up. When wanted for dressing, cut off
the four legs at the first joint, raise the
skin of the back, and draw it over the
hind legs; leave the tail whole, then draw
the skin over the back, and slip out the four
legs; cut it from the neck and head; skin
the ears, and leave them on. Clean the
vent. Cut the sinews under the hind legs;
bring them forward; run a skewer through
one hind leg, the body, and another hind
leg; do the same with the fore legs; lay the
head rather back; put a skewer in at the
mouth, through the back of the head and
between the shoulders; put in the stuffing,
and tie it round with a string, passing it
over the legs to keep them in their places:
the hare is then ready for roasting. See
Hare Roasted.
HARE, JUGGED. Having skinued a
hare, cut off the shoulders and legs, and di-
vide the back into three pieces; rub them
well with fat bacon, and put them into a
stewpan with the trimmings, allspice, mace,
whole pepper, a small clove of garlic, two
bay-leaves, three onions, parsley, thyme,
sweet marjoram, a quart of veal stock, and
thiee gills of Port wine; simmer the whole
till three parts done; then take out the shoul-
ders, legs, and back; put them into another
Stewpan, strain the liquor to them, add a
little flour and butter, stew them till quite
done; take off the fat, season with cayenue,
salt, and lemon-juice, and serve the whole
m a deep dish.
HARE ROASTED. Cut the skin from
a hare that has been well soaked; put it on
the spit and rub it well with Madeira, prick-
ing it in various places that it may imbibe
plenty of wine; cover it entirely with a
paste, and roast it. When done, take away
the paste, rub it quickly over with egg,
sprinkle bread-crumbs, and baste it gently
with butter (still keeping it turning before
the fire) until a crust is formed over tt and
it is of a nice brown color; dish it over
some espagnole with Madeira wine boiled
in it; two or three cloves may be stuck into
the knuckles if you think proper.
HASHED HARE. Cut up the hare
into pieces fit to help at table, and divide
the jotnts of the legs and shoulders, and set
them by ready. Put the trimmings and
gravy you have left, with half a pint of wa-
ter (there should be a pint of liquor), and a
table-spoonful of currant jelly, into a clean
stewpan, and let it boil gently for a quarter
of an hour: then strain it through a sieve
into a basin, and pour it back into the stew-
pan; now flour the hare, put it into the
gravy, and let it simmer very gently till the
hare is warm (about twenty minutes); cut
the stuffing into slices, and put it into the
hash to get warm, about five minutes before
you serve it; divide the head, and lay one
half on each side the dish.
HARICOT BY WAY OF SOUP.
Cut a large neck of mutton into two pieces,
put the scrag into a stewpan with a quart
of water, four large carrots, and turnips;
boil it gently over a slow fire till all the
goodness be out of the meat; then bruise
the vegetables into the soup to thicken it.
Fry six onions (sliced) in butter, and put
the other part of the meat to the soup, and
stew till the latter is tender; season with
pepper and salt, and serve it very hot in a
tureen.
HARICOT MUTTON. Cut the best
end of a neck or loin of mutton, that
has been kept till tender, into chops of
equal thickness, one rib to each; trim off
some of the fat, and the lower end of the
chine bone, and scrape it clean, and lay
them in a stewpan, with an ounce of butter;
set it over a smart fire; if your fire is not
sharp, the chops will be done before they
are colored; the intention of frying them ts
merely to give them a very light browning.
While the chops are browning, peel and
boil a couple of dozen of young button onions
in about three pints of water for about fifteen
or twenty minutes, set them by, and pour off
the liquor they were boiled in into the stew-
pan with the chops: if that is not sufficient
to cover them, add as much boiling water as
will remove the scum as it rises, and be


HAT
HER
95
careful they are not stewed too fast or too
much; so take out one of them with a fish-
slice, and try it: when they are tender,
which will be in about an hour and a half,
then pass the gravy through a sieve into a
basin, set it in the open air that it may get
cold, you may then easily and completely
skim off the fat; in the meantime set the
meat and vegetables by the fire to keep hot,
and pour some boiling water over the button
on ions to warm them. Have about six
ounces of carrots, and eight ounces of tur-
nips, peeled and cut into slices, or shaped
into balls about as big as a nutmeg; boil
the carrots about half an hour, the turnips
about a quarter of an hour, and put them on
a sieve to drain, and then put them round
the dish, the last titing.
Thicken the gravy by putting an ounce of
butter into a stewpan; when it is melted,
stir in as much flour as will stiffen it; pour
the gravy to it by degrees, stir together till
it boils; strain tt through a fine sieve or
tam is into a stewpan, put in the carrots and
turnips to get warm, and let it simmer
gently while you dish up the meat; lay the
chops round a dish, put the vegetables in the
middle, and pour the thickened gravy over.
Some put in capers, &c. minced gherkins,
&c.
Rump-steaks, veal-cutlets, and beef-tails,
make excellent dishes dressed in the like
manuer.
HASH, COLD. Mince a nice white
piece of veal, wash and core some anchovies;
take some pickled oysters, pickled cucum-
bers, and a lemon; shred and mix them
with the veal, and place it in a dish; lay
round it shoes of veal, fillets of anchovies,
pickled cucumbers sliced, whole pickled
oysters, mushrooms and capers; lettuces
shred small; pour in oil and vinegar, salt
and pepper, and serve.
HASHES, MADE DISHES, STEWS,
RAGOUTS, SOUPS, TO WARM. Put
what you have left into a deep hash-dish or
tureen; when you want it, set this in a stew-
pan of boiling water: let it stand till the
contents are quite warm.
HATTERED KIT. (1) Make two
quarts of new milk scalding hot, and pour
it quickly upon four quarts of fresh-made
butter milk, after which it must not be stir-
red; let it remam till cold and firm, then
take off the top part, drain it in a hair sieve,
and put it into a shape for half an hour. It
is eaten with cream, served in a separate
dish.
HATTERED KIT. (2) Put into the
dtsh it is to be served in, one-third of cream
with two-thirds of butter-milk, add a little
pounded loaf sugar, and beat if well togeth-
er. Strew over it a little pounded cin-
namon, and let it stand for three or four
hours.
HAWTHORN LIQUOR. The full
blossoms of the white thorn arc to be picked
dry and clean from the leaves and stalks,
and as much put into a large bottle as it will
hold lightly without pressing down; it is
then to be filled up with French brandy,
and allowed to stand two or three months,
when it must be decanted off, and sweetened
with clarified sugar, or with capillaire.
Without the sweetening, it is an excellent
seasoning for puddings and custards.
HEDGEHOG TO MAKE. Blanch
two pounds of sweet almonds, beat them to
a paste in a mortar, moistening occasionally
with Canary and orange-flower water; beat
the yolks oi twelve, and the whites of seven
eggs with a pint of cream and some powder
sugar; put this with the almond paste and
half a pound of fresh butter into a saucepan,
set it over a stove and keep it constantly
stirring till sufficiently firm to be moulded
into the shape of a hedgehog: stick it full
of blanched almonds, cut lengthwise, into
slips, and place it in a dish; beat up the
yolks of four eggs, put them to a pint of
cream (sweetened to the taste); stir them
over a slow fire till hot, then pour it round
the hedgehog and let it stand: when cold,
serve it. A good calf's-foot jelly may be
poured round, instead of the cream, if pre-
ferred.
HERBS, A BUNCH OF SWEET, Is
made up of parsley, sweet marjoram, winter
savory, orange and lemon thyme; the great-
est proportion of parsley.
HERBS, SWEET. These in cookery
are parsley, chibbol, rocambole, winter sa-
vory, thyme, bay-leaf, basil, mint, borage,
rosemarv, cress, marigold, marjoram, &c.
The reltshing herbs or Ravigotte are tar-
ragon, garden-cress, chervil, burnet, civet,
and green mustard.
HERBS TO DRY, SWEET AND
SAVORY. It is very important to those
who are not in the constant habit of attend-
ing the markets to know when the various
seasons commence for purchasing sweet
herbs.
All vegetables are in the highest state
of perfectton, and fullest of juice and flavor,
just before they begin to flower: the firs:
and last crop have neither the fine flavor,
nor the perfume of those which are gathered
in the height of the season; that is, when


HER
HOG
96
the greater part of the crop of each species
is ripe.
Take care they are gathered on a dry
day, by which means they will have a bet-
ter color when dried. Cleanse your herbs
well from dirt and dust; cut off the roots;
separate the bunches into smaller ones, and
dry them by the heat of a stove, or in a
Dutch oven before a common fire, in such
quantities at a time, that the process may be
speedily finished; t. e. 'Kill 'em quick,'
says a great botanist; by this means their
flavor will be best preserved: there can be
no doubt of the propriety of drying herbs,
&c. hastily by the aid of arttfictal heat,
rather than by the heat of the sun. In the
application of artificial heat, the only cau-
tion requistte is to avoid burning; and of
this a sufficient test is afforded by the pres-
ervation of the color. The common cus-
tom is, when they are perfectly dried to put
them in bags, and lay them in a dry place;
but the best way to preserve the flavor of
aromatic plants is to pick off the leaves as
soon as they are dried, and to pound them,
and put them through a hair sieve, and keep
them in well-stopped bottles. The common
custom is to put them into paper bags, and
lay them on a shelf in the kitchen, exposed
to all the fumes, steam, and smoke, Sec.:
thus they soon Iosl their flavor.
N. B. Herbs nicely dried are a very ac-
ceptable substitute when fresh ones canuot
be got; but, however carefully dried, the
flavor aud fragrance of the fresh herbs are
incomparably finer.
HERRINGS. There are three sorts of
herrings, fresh, salted, and dried or red her-
rings. They are emptied and cleaned like
any other fish; when fresh, they are broiled,
and served with melted butter, white sauce,
&c.
The salted herring should be soaked in
cold water before it is cooked; this is also
broiled: sometimes, however, it is cut in
pieces, and eaten raw.
The red herring is split down the back,
the head and tail are cut off, and the fish
brotled like the others.
They may also be dressed as follows:
w ten they have lain in cold water a suffi-
cient time, soak them for two hours in milk,
then split them down the back; then have
ready some melted butter, in which has been
mixed basil and bay-leaf, minced small, the
yolks of two eggs, pepper and nutmeg; rub
the herrings well with this, bread them;
broil them over a gentle fire, and serve with
lemon-juice.
The best red herrings are full of roe,
are firm and large, and have a yellow
cast.
Of the fresh herring the scales are bright
if good, the eyes are full, and the gills red,
the fish also should be stiff.
HERRINGS, BOILED. Scale, and
otherwise prepare the herrings in the usua,
. way ; dry them well, and rub them over with
a llttle salt and vinegar; skewer their tails
in their mouths, lay them on a foh-plate, and
put them into boiling water; in ten or
twelve minutes take them out, drain them,
lay them on the dish, the heads towards the
mtddle; serve them with melted butter and
parsley, and garnish with horseradish.
HERRINGS, RED. Plain broil them,
or pour over some beer made hot, and when
it is cold drain and wipe them dry; heat
them thoroughly, and rub over a bttle butter,
and sprinkle them with pepper.
HERRINGS TO BAKE. They must
be perfectly fresh, and well cleaned, but not
washed; the heads and fins cut off, and the
bones cut out; strew over them pepper, salt,
and a slice of onion minced very finely, to
each; roll them up tight; pack them into a
jar, and pour over in the proportion of a
pint of vinegar to two of water, with half
an ounce of whole black pepper; tie over
the jar a piece of bladder or paper, and
bake them in an oven for an hour. Take
off the cover when they are cold, and pout
over a little cold vinegar, and tie them up.
HERRINGS TO FRY. Scrape off
the scales; cut off the fins; draw out the
gut, keeping in the roes and melts; wipe
them in a clean cloth; dredge them with
flour, and fry them in boiling dripping; put
them before the fire to drain and keep hot.
Sauces;—melted butter, and parsley and
butter. When herrings are to be broiled,
they are prepared in the same manuer, and
done upon the gridiron. They must not be
washed.
HIPPOCRAS. Take one ounce of
cinuamon, two drachms of ginger, two pen-
ny-weights of cloves, nutmeg, and galangal
a penuy-weight of each. Pound these to-
gether well, and infuse them in a pint of red
or white wine, and a pint of malmsey; to
this, add a pound of the best loaf sugar.
These proportions will make a quart of
the liquor.
HOG'S HEAD. Put a head into some
pickle, and when it has Iain sufficiently long,
take it out and boil it till the bones will
come out with ease; then skin, bone, and
chop the meat, whilst hot; season it with
pepper (black and white), nutmeg, and salt,
if necessary; lay part of the skin at the
bottom of a potting pan, press in the meat


HUN
ICE
97
cover it with the remainder of the skin, put
on a weight, and t it stand till quite cold.
Then turn it out. Boil the liquor it was
dressed in with some vinegar, skim it well,
and when cold put the head into it.
HONEY TO CLARIFY.—M. Fou-
que's method. Take six pounds of
honey, a pound and three-quarters of water,
two ounces and a quarter of pounded chalk,
five ounces of coal, (pulverised, washed, and
well dried), the whites of three eggs beaten
in three ounces of water, fcr each pound of
honey.
Put the honey, water, chalk, and eggs,
into a copper vessel, capable of holding
about one-third more than the above quanti-
ties; let them boil for two minutes, throw
in the coal, mixing it with a spoon, and
continue the boiling two minutes longer;
then take the saucepan from the fire, and
let it stand nearly a quarter of an hour, that
the liquor may cool; then take a new sieve
(which must be well washed, or it will un-
part a disagreeable taste), pass the honey
through it, taking care to filter the first
drops twice, as they generally carry with
them some portion of the coal.
The sirup which still adheres to the coal,
and other materials, may be separated as
follows: pour boiling water on them until
they no longer retain any sweetness; then
put these different waters together, set them
over a large fire to evaporate, till the sirup
only remains. This sirup contracts the fla-
vor of bat ley sugar, and must not be added
to the clarified honey.
HORSERADISH POWDER. The
time to make this is during November and
December; slice it the thickness of a shil-
ling, and lay it to dry very gradually in a
Dutch oven (a strong heat soon evaporates
its flavor); when dry enough, pound it and
bottle it.
HOT PICKLE. Boil, in two quarts of
vinegar, a quarter of a pound of salt, two
ounces of shallots or garlic, and two of gin-
ger, one ounce of pepper, one of yellow mus-
tard seed, and a quarter of an ounce of
cayenue; put into a jar that will hold four
quarts, two ounces of allspice, and pour on
it the hot pickle. When cold, put in any
fresh-gathered vegetables or fruit, such as
asparagus, cauliflower, French beans, radish
pods, unripe apples, gooseberries, currants,
which may be added as the opportunity of-
fers, and, as the pickle wastes, it should be
replenished with the sume mixture.
H-BONE OF BEEF. See Beef.
HUNG BEEF. See Beef.
HUNTING BEEF. See Beef.
HUNTER'S PIE. See Irish Stew
I.
ICE. Sorbetieres or moulds for cream
or fruit-ices, are made of two sorts of ma-
terials, block-tin and pewter; of these, the
latter is the best, the substance to be iced
congealing more gradually in it than in the
former; an object much to be desired, as
when the ice is formed too quickly, it is very
apt to be rough, and full of lumps like hail,
especially if it be not well worked with the
spatula; the other utensils necessary for this
operation, are, a deep pail, with a cork at
the bottom, and a wooden spatula about
nine inches long; being so far provided, fill
the pail with pounded ice, over which spread
four- hand mis of salt; then having filled the
sorbetiere, or mould, with cream, &c.; put
on the cover, and immerse it in the centre
of the ice-pail; taking care the ice touches
the mould in all parts; throw in two more
handfuls of salt, and leave it a quarter of an
hour; then take the cover from the mould,
and with the spatula stir the contents up to-
gether, so that those parts which touch the
sides of the mould, and consequently congeal
first, may be mixed with the liqutd in the
middle; work this about for seven or eight
minutes; cover the mould, take the pail by
the ears, and shake it round and round for
a quarter of an hour; open the mould a sec-
ond time, and stir us before; continue these
operations alternately, until the cream, or
whatever it may lie, is entirely congealed,
and perfectly smooth, and free from lumps.
Take care to let out the water, which will
collect at the bottom of the pail, by means
of the cork, and press the ice close to the
sorbetiere with the spatula.
When the cream is iced, take it from the
pail, dip the mould in warm water, hut not
to let it remain an instant; dry it quickly,
turn it out, and serve it as soon as possible.
All sorts of ices are finished in this man-
ner; the preparation of the articles of which
they are composed, constitutes the only dif-
ference between them.
ICE, A VERY LARGE CAKE. Beat
the whites of twenty fresh eggs; then, by
degrees, beat a pound of double-refined su-
gar, sifted through a lawn sieve; mix these
well in a deep earthen pan; add orange-
flower water, and a piece of fresh lemon-
peel; do not use more of the orange-flower
water than is just sufficient to flavor it.
Whisk it for three hours till the mixture is
thick and white; then, with a thin broad


ICI
IRI
9S
bit ofiboard, spread it all over the top and
sides, and set it in a cool oven, and an hour
will ltarden it.
ICE FOR ICING (how to pre-
pare). Take a few pounds of ice, break
it almost to powder, and throw in among it
a large handful and a half of salt; you must
prepare in the coolest part of the house, that
as little of the warm air as possible may
come. The ice and salt being in a bucket,
put your cream into an ice-pot, and cover it;
immerse it in the ice, and draw that round
the pot, so that it may touch every part. In
a few minutes put a spatula or spoon in, and
stir it well, removing the parts that tce round
the edges to the centre. If the ice-cream or
water, be in a form, shut the bottom close,
and move the whole in the ice, as you can-
not use a spoon to that without danger of
waste. There should be holes in the buck-
et, to let the ice off as it thaws.
ICING FOR CAKES. For a large
cake, beat and sift eight ounces of fine sugar,
put it into a mortar, with four spoonfuls of
rose water, and the whites of two eggs,
beaten and strained, whisk it well, and
when the cake is almost cold, dip a feather
in the icing, and cover the cake well; set it
in the oven to harden, but do not let it re-
main long enough to discolor. Keep the
cake in a dry place.
ICING FOR TARTS. Beat the yolk
of an egg and some melted butter well toge-
ther; wash the tarts with a feather, and
sift sugar over as you put them into the
oven; or beat white of egg, wash the paste,
and sift white sugar.
ICING, FOR TWELFTH or BRIdE
cake. Take one pound of double-refined
sugar, pounded and sifted through a lawn
sieve; put into a pan quite free from grease;
break in the whites of six eggs, and as much
powder blue as will lie on a sixpence; beat
it well with a spattle for ten minutes; then
squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and beat it
till it Incomes thick and transparent. Set
the cake you intend to ice in an oven or
warm place five minutes; then spread over
the top and sides with the mixture as smooth
as possible. If for a wedding cake only,
plain ice it; if for a twelfth cake, ornament
it with gum paste, or fancy articles of any
descriptton. A good twelfth cake, not bak-
ed two much, and kept in a cool dry place,
will retain its moisture and eat well, if
twelve months old.
ICING For FRUIT TARTS, PUFFS,
or pastry. Beat up in a half-pint mug
the white of two eggs to a solid froth; lay
some on the middle of the pie with a paste
brush; sift over plenty of pounded sugar, and
press it down with the hand, wash out the
brush, and splash by degrees with water till
the sugar is dissolved, and put it in the oven
for ten minutes, and serve it up cold.
IMPERIAL. Put two ounces of cream
of tartar, and the juice and peel of two lem-
ons, into a stone jar, pour on them seven
quarts of boiling water, stir, and cover close.
When cold, sweeten it with loaf sugar, strain
it, bottle and cork it tight. Add in bottling,
half a pint to the whole quantity.
INDIA PICKLE. (1) Take one pound of
ginger, put it into a pan with salt and wa-
ter, and let it lay all night, then scrape it,
and cut it into thin slices; put it into a pan
with half a pound of bay salt, and let it lay
till all the following ingredients are prepar-
ed; a pound of garlic peeled, and laid in
salt for three days, then take it out, wash it,
then let it lay in salt for another three days,
then take it out and let it lay in tbe sun for
another, till half dry; an ounce of long pep-
per, an ounce of capsicum, salted and laid
in the sun for three days, a pint of black
mustard-seed bruised, half an ounce of tur-
meric, beat very small; put all these ingre-
dients together m a jar, then put in as much
vinegar, as, when the cabbage, or whatever
you intend to pickle, ts put into it, the vine-
gar will rise to the top of the jar. Then
take cabbage, cauliflower, or whatever you
choose to pickle, and cut them into small
pieces, throw a good handful of salt over
them, and set thcm in the sun (when it is
very hot) for three days, drain the water
from them every day, and fresh salt them-
again, turning the leaves till they are dry,
then put them into the pickle, being partic-
ular that they are completely covered with
the vinegar; tie it up close, let it stand a
fortnight, fill it again with more vinegar,
carefully watch it from time to time, to fill
it up with vinegar, as it will waste \ sty fast.
INDIA PICKLE. (2) One gallon of vin-
egar, one pound of garlic, a quarter of a
pound of long pepper split, half a pound of
flour of mustard, one pound of ginger scrap-
ed, and split, and two ounces of turmevic.
When you have prepared the spice, and put
it into the jar, pour the vinegar boiling hot
over it, and stir it every day for a week.
Then put in your cabbage, cauliflower, or
whatever you mtend to pickle.
INDIAN CURRY. See Curry.
IRISH PUFFS. Add to five well-
beaten yolks and two whites of eggs, a large
table-spoonful of flour, no! quite an ounce ot


I S I
JAM
99
melted butter, and half a tea-spoonful of salt;
beat it all well for ten minutes, and add half
a pint of cream; bake it in buttered tea-
cups; turn them out, and serve them with a
sweet sauce.
IRISH ROCK. Blanch a pound of
sweet and an ounce of bitter almonds, pick
out a few of the sweet almonds, and cut
them like straws, and blanch them in rose
water; pound the rest in a mortar with a
table-spoonful of brandy, four ounces of
pounded and silted loaf sugar, and half a
pound of salt butter well washed; pound
them till the mass looks very1 white, and set
it in a cool place to stiffen; then dip two
table-spoons into cold water, and with them
form the paste, as much like an egg as pos-
sible; place in the bottom of a glass dish, a
small plate or saucer turned, and lay the
rock high up; stick over it the cut almonds
with green sweetmeats, and ornament with
a sprig of myrtle.
IRISH STEW, OR HUNTER'S Pte.
Take part of a neck of mutton, cut it into
chops, season it well, put it into a stewpan,
let it brase for half an hour, take two dozen
of potatoes, boil them, mash them, and sea-
son them, butter your mould, and line it with
the potatoes, put in the mutton, bake it for
half an hour, then it will be done, cut a hole
in the top, and add some good gravy to it.
IRISH STEW. Take five thick mut-
ton chops, or two pounds off the neck or
loins, two pounds of potatoes; peel them,
and cut them in halves; six onions, or half
a pound of onions; peel and slice them also:
first put a layer of potatoes at the bottom of
your stewpan, then a couple of chops and
some of the onions; then again- potatoes, and
so on, till the pan is quite lull; a small
spoonful of white pepper, and about one
and a half of salt, and three gills of broth or
gravy, and two tea-spoonfuls of mushroom
ketchup; cover all very close in, so as to
prevent the steam from getting out, and let
them stew for an hour and a half. on a very
slow fire. A small slice of bam is a great
addition to this dish. The cook will be the
best judge when it is done, as a great deal
depends on the fire you have. Great care
must be taken not to let it burn, and that it
does not do too fast.
ISINGLASS, TO CLARIFY. Take
an ounce and quarter of the best isinglass,
cut tt into small pieces, and wash them sev-
eral times in warm water. Put the isinglass
into a preserving pan, with five glasses of
filtered water, set it on the fire, and, as soon
as it boils, place it at the side of the stove,
io as to keep up the boiling; take off the
scum directly it rises; and when the whole
is reduced to three-quarters, strain it through
a cloth into a basin for use. Some add, m
clarifying isinglass, lemon-peel, to remove
its disagreeable taste; but as good isinglass
ought to have no flavor, and as the lemon-
peel is certain to give a yellow tinge to that,
it is much better left out.
ITALIAN CHEESE. Mix with near-
ly half h pound of pounded loaf sugar, the
juice of three lemons, two table-S|won fiils
of white wine, and a quart of cream; beat
it with a whisk till quite thick, which may
be in half an hour; put a bit of muslin into
a hair sieve, and pour in the cream. In
twelve hours turn it out, and garnish it with
flowers. It may be put into a tin shape,
with holes in it.
ITALIAN MACAROONS. Take one
pound of Valentia or Jordan almonds, blanch-
ed, pound them quite fine with the whites
of four eggs; add two pounds and a half of
sifted loaf sugar, and rub them well togeth-
er with the pestle; put in by degrees about
ten or eleven more whites, working them
well as you put them in; but the best crite-
rion to go by in trying their lightness is to
bake one or two, and if you find them heavy,
put one or two more whites; put the mix-
ture into a biscuit-funuel, and lay them out
on wafer-paper, in pieces about the size of a
small walnut, havmg ready about two ounces
of blanched and dry almonds cut into slips,
put tbree or four pteces on each, and bake
them on wires, or a baking-plate, in a slow
oven. Obs.—Almonds should be blanched
and dried gradually two or three days be-
fore they are used, by which means they
will work much better, and where large
quantities are used, it is advised to grind
them in a mill provided for that purpose.
J.
JAM, APRICOT. (1) Weigh equal
quantities of pounded loaf sugar and of ap-
ricots; pare and cut them quite small; as
they are done, strew over half of the sugar.
The following day boil the remainder, and
add the apricots; stir it till it boils, take
off the scum, and when perfectly clear, add
part of the kernels blanched, and boil it
two or three minutes.
JAM, APRICOT. (2) Allow equal
proportions of pounded loaf sugar and of
apricots; pare, and cut them small; as they
are done, strew part of the sugar over them,
and put the parings into cold water. Break
the stones, blanch and pound the kernels*


JAM
J EL
100
which, with the shells and parings, boil till
half the quantity of water is reduced, and
there is a sufficiency of the liquor, when
strained, to allow three or four table-spoon-
fuls to a pound of apricots; put it, with die
sugar and fruit, into a preserving pan; mash,
and take off the scum; boil it quickly, till
transparent.
JAM, APRICOT, OR ANY PLUM.
After taking away the stones from the apri-
cots, and cutting out any blemishes they
may have; put them over a slow fire, in a
clean stewpan, with half a pint of water;
when scalded, rub them through a hair
sieve: to every pound of pulp put one pound
of sifted loaf sugar; put it into a preserving-
pan over a brisk fire, and when it boils
skim it well, and throw in the kernels of
the apricots, and half an ounce of bitter al-
monds, blanched; boil it a quarter of an
hour fast, and stirring it all the time; re-
move it from the fire, and fill it into pots,
and cover them as directed in Raspberry
Jam. N. B.—Green gages or plums may
be done in the same way, omitting the ker-
nels or almonds.
JAM, BLACK CURRANT. Gather
your currants on a dry day, when they are
full ripe, pick them from the stalks, wash
them well in a basin, and to every pound
of currants, put a pound of double refined
sugar, beaten and sifted; put them into a
preserving pan, boil them half an hour, skim,
and keep them stirring all the time: then
put them into pots: when cold, put brandy
paper over, and tie white paper over all.
JAM, CHERRY. Having stoned and
boiled three pounds of fine cherries, bruise
them, and let the juice run from them; then
boil together half a pound of red currant
juice, and half a pound of loaf sugar, put
the cherries into these whilst they are boil-
ing, and strew on them three-quarters of a
pound of sifted sugar. Boil all together very
fast for half an hour, and then put it into
pots. When cold put on brandy papers.
JAM, GOOSEBERRY. Take what
quantity you please of red, rough, ripe goose-
berries; take half their quantity of lump su-
gar; break them well, and boil them to-
gether for half an hour, 01 more if necessa-
ry. Put it into pots, and cover with paper.
JAM, Gooseberry, for Puddtngs.
Allow equal weight of the red rough goose-
berries, and of good brown sugar; gather
the fruit upon a dry day; top and tail, them,
and put a layer alternately of gooseberries
and of sugar into a preserving pan; shake
it frequently, skim it well, and boil it till
the sirup jellies, which may be ascertained
by cooling a little in a saucer. Black and
red currants may be done in this way for
common use.
JAM, PEACH. Gather the peaches
when quite ripe, peel and stone them, put
them into a preserving-pan, and mash tnem
over the fire till hot; rub them through a
sieve, and add to a pound of pulp the same
weight of pounded loaf sugar, and half an
ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and pound-
ed; let it boil ten or twelve minutes, stit
and skim it well.
JAM, RASPBERRY. Weigh equal
proportions of pounded loaf sugar and of
raspberries; put the fruit into a preserving-
pan, and with a silver spoon bruise and
mash it well; let boil six minutes; add the
sugar, and stir it well with the fruit; when
it boils, skim it, and boil it for fifteen min-
utes.
JAM, STRAWBERRY. Gather the
scarlet strawberries when perfectly ripe,
bruise them well, and add the juice of other
strawberries; take an equal weight of lump
sugar, pound and sift it, stir it thoroughly
into the fruit, and set it on a slow fire; botl
it twenty minutes, taking off the scum as it
rises; pour it into glasses, or jars, and when
cold, tie them down.
JAM, WHITE OR RED CURRANT.
Pick the fruit very nicely, and allow an
equal quantity of finely-pounded loaf sugar;
put a layer of each alternately into a preserv-
ing pan, and boil for ten minutes; or they
may be boiled the same length of time in
sugar previously clarified and boiled candy
high.
JAUNE MANGE. Boil an ounce of
isinglass in three-quarters of a pint of water
till melted; strain it, then add the juice of
two Seville oranges, a quarter of a pint of
white wine, the yolks of four eggs, beaten
and strained; sugar according to taste; stir
it over a gentle fire till it just boils up: when
cold, put it into a mould, taking care, if
there should happen to be any sediment, not
to pour it in.
JELLY. To a quart of the stock jelly
put half a pound of loaf sugar pounded, a
stick or two of cinuamon broken into small
bits, the peel of a lemon, a p nt of currant
wine, and one of Sherry or Tet eriflfe, and the
beaten whites of five eggs; put it all into a
nicely-cleaned saucepan, stir it gently till it
boils, and boil it- for three or four minutes.
Pour it into a jelly-bag, with a basin or mug
placed underneath; run it immediately


JEL
JEL
101
through the bag again into another basin,
and repeat this till it begins to drop. It
will then be as transparent as possible, and
may be put into moulds or glasses. When
all has apparently dripped, pour about a
pint of boiling water into the bag, whi-h
will produce a little thin jelly fit to drink;
the stand with the jelly-bag should lie plac-
ed near to the fire; Sherry alone, orTene-
riffe, may be used. The jelly may be put
into quart bottles corked tightly, which will
make it keep good for some weeks; place
the bottle in warm water when it is requir-
ed for use.
JELLY, ALE OR PORTER. For a
large shape, put to the prepared stock or
jelly, more than half a bottle of strong ale
or porter, a pound of loaf sugar, the peel of
one, and the juice of four large lemons, a
stick of cinnamon, and the beaten whites of
eight eggs; put it all into a saucepan, stir
it gently; let it boil for fifteen minutes, and
pour it into a jelly-bag till it runs perfectly
clear.
JELLY, APPLE. (1) Pare, core, and
cut thirteen good apples into small bits; as
they are cut, throw them into two quarts
of cold water; boil them in this, with the
peel of a lemon, till the substance is. ex-
tracted, and nearly half the liquor wasted;
drain them through a hair sieve, and to a
pint of the liquid add one pound of loaf su-
gar pounded, the juice of one lemon, and the
beaten whites of one or two eggs; put it into
a saucepan, stir it till it boils, take off the
scum, and let it boil till clear, and then pour
it into a mould.
JELLY, APPLE. (2) Pare and mince
three dozen of juicy acid apples, put them
into a pan, cover them with water, and boil
them till very soft; strain them through a
thin cloth or flanuel bag; allow a pound of
loaf sugar to a pint of juice; clarify and
boil it; add the apple juice, with the grated
peel and juice of six lemons; boil it for
twenty minutes; take off the scum as it rises.
JELLY, APPLE. (3) Pare and cut
into slices eighteen large acid apples; boil
them in as much water as will cover them;
when quite soft, dip a coarse cloth into hot
water, wring it dry, and strain the apples
through it; to each pint of juice allow four-
teen ounces of fine loaf sugar, clarify it, and
add, with the apple juice, the peel of a large
lemon ; boil it till it jellies, which may be in
twenty minutes; pick out the lemon peel,
and immediately put it into jars.
JELLY, APRICOT. Take eighteen fine
aprtcots, let them be of a nice red color,
stone them, and cut them in pieces into some
sirup, (usually made w ith twelve ounces of
sugar, but for apricot jelly it should be
rather more liquid than for other jellies.)
When the fruit is done put it into a napkin,
to express out all the juice you possibly can;
which you must add to the sirup in which
the apricots have been done, and which has
been previously strained through a silk sieve,
and after having mixed with it a proper
quantity of isinglass to thicken it, finish the
same as all ether jellies.
JELLY, ARROW-ROOT. Steep for
some hours, in two table-spoonfuls of water,
the peel of a lemon, and three or four bitter
almonds pounded; strain, and mix it with
three table-spoonfuls of arrow-root, the same
quantity of lemon-juice, and one of brandy;
sweeten, and stir it over the fire till qutte
thick, and when quite cold, put it into jolly
glasses.
JELLY, BARBERRY. (1) Pick a
pint of barberries, and put them into a stew-
pan with boiling water, cover it close and
let it stand till nearly cold. Set on the fire
some clarified sugar with a little water,
(making a quart together;) when it begins
to boil, skim it well, put in the barberries,
let them boil an hour; squeeze the juice of
three lemons through a sieve into a basin, to
this, pass the liquor from the barberries, and
then the isinglass.
JELLY, BARBERRY. (2) Takesome
very ripe barberries (what quantity you
please) and before you seed them take two
thirds of their weight in sugar. Boil your
sugar, then put your barberries into it, and
give the whole a few boilings, then pass it
through a siIk sieve into a pan, pressing the
barberries with a spoon to extract as much
jutce as possible from them; this done, put it
again over the fire, and when you perceive
it begins to form the sewn, take it oif and
pour it into pots.
JELLY, BREAD FOR AN INVALID.
Cut the crum of a penuy roll into thin slices,
and toast them equally of a pale brown; boil
them gently in a cmarl of water till it will
jelly, which may be known by putting a
little in a spoon to cool; strain it upon a
bit of lemon-peel, and sweeten it with sugar.
A little wine may be added.
JELLY BROTH. See Broth.
JELLY, CALF'S FEET. (1) Take
four, feet, slit them in*two, take away
the fat from between the claws, wash them
well in lukewarm water; then put them in
a large stewpan, and cover them with water:
9»


JEL 102
JEL
when the liquor boils, skim it well, and let
it boil gently six or seven hours, that it may
be reduced to about two quarts; then strain
it through a sieve, and skim off all the oily
substance which is on the surface of the
liquor.
If you are not in a hurry, it is better to
boil the calf's feet the day before you make
the jelly; as. when the liquor is cold, die
oily part being at the top, and the other be-
firm, with pieces of kitchen paper appli-
to it, you may remove every particle of
the oily substance, without wfcsting any of
the liquor.
Put the liquor in a stewpan to melt, with
a pound of lump sugar, the peel of two lem-
ons, the juice of six, six whites and shells of
eggs beat together, and a bottle of Sherry or
Madeira; whtsk the whole together until it is
on the boil; then put it by the side of the
stove, and let it simmer a quarter of an
hour; strain it through a jelly-bag: what is
strained first must be poured into the bag
again, until it is as bright and as clear as
rock-water; then put the jelly in moulds, to
be cold and firm: if the weather is too warm,
it requires some ice.
When it is wished to be very stiff, half an
ounce of isinglass may be added when the
wine is put in.
It may be flavored by the juice of various
fruits, spices, &c. and colored with saf-
fron, cochineal, red beet juice, spinage juice,
claret, &c.; and it is sometimes made with
cherry brandy, or noyeau rouge, or Curacoa,
or essence of punch, instead of wine.
JELLY, CALF'S FEET. (2) Take
the fat and bones from eight feet, and soak
them in water for three or four hours;
then boil them in six quarts of water, skim-
ming often; when reduced to a third, strain
and set it by to cool; when cold, take every
particle of fat from the top, and remove
whatever may have settled at the bottom.
Dissolve it in an earthen pan, adding to it
two quarts of white wine, mace, cinuamon,
and ginger, or not, as you please. Beat up
the whites of twelve eggs with three pounds
of fine sugar, mix these with the jelly, boil it -
gently, adding the juice of two lemons, and
then strain it for use.
JELLY, CHERRY. Take the stones
and stalks from two pounds of fine clear
ripe cherries; mix them with a quarter of
a pound of red currants, from which the
seeds have been extracted; express the
juice from these fruits, filter and mix it with
three-quarters of a pound of clarified sugar,
and one ounce of ihinglass. Finish the same
as Barberry jelly.
JELLY OF CURRANTS, GRAPE,
RASPBERRY, Are all made precisely
in the same manuer. When the fruit is full
ripe, gather it on a dry day: as soon as it
is nicely picked, put it into a jar, and cover
it down verv close.
Set the jar in a saucepan about three
parts filled with cold water; put it on a gen-
tle fire, and let it simmer for about half an
hour. Take the pan from the fire, and pour
the contents of the jar into a jelly-bag: pass
the juice through a second time; do not
squeeze the bag.
To each pint of juice add a pound and a
half of very good lump sugar pounded; w hen
it is dissolved, put it into a preserving-pan;
set it on the fire, and boil gently; stirring
and skimming it the whole time (about thir-
ty or forty minutes), i. e. till no more scum
rises, and it is perfectly clear and fine:
pour it while warm into pots; and when
cold, cover them with paper wetted in
brandy.
Half a pint of this jelly, dissolved in a
pint of brandy or vinegar, will give you ex-
cellent currant or raspberry brandy or vine-
gar. ,
Obs.—Jellies from other fruits are made
in the same way, and canuot be preserved
in perfection without plenty of good sugar.
Those who wish jelly to turu out very stiff,
dissolve isinglass. in a little water, strain
through a sieve, and add it in the proportion
of half an ounce to a pint of juice, and put
it in with the sugar.
The best way is the cheapest. Jellies
made with two small a proportion of sugar,
require boiling so long; there is much more
waste of juice and flavor by evaporation than
the due quantity of sugar costs; and they
neither look nor taste half so well.
JELLY, DAMSON. To eight pounds
of damsons, put eight pounds of fine sugar,
and half a pint of water; boil them for half
an hour over a gentle fire, till the skins
break; then take them off, and set them by
for an hour; set them on the fire again, for
half an hour more; set them by again for
the same time; do so the third time; while
they stand off the fire, put a weight upon
them to keep them under the sirup. The
last time, you must boil them till you per-
ceive they are of a very high color in the
part where the skin is broken; then take'
them off, set them by to cool, and when they
are cold, drain off the sirup, and make the
jelly in the following manuer:—Boil a quan-
tity of green apples, green gooseberries, and
quince cores, to a mash; then strain them
through a hair sieve. Take an equal quan-
tity of this jelly and the former sirup, and
boil them over a gentle fire together till they
jelly; skim it well, and while it is hot, put
it into glasses or pots.
mg
ed


JEL
JEL
103
JELLY FOR ENTREMETS. Harts-
horn, calf's feet, and isinglass, are the usual
materials used to coagulate sweet jellies; of
these three, the latter is the best, as, when
properly clarified, (for which see isinglass),
tt is the clearest, and has no unpleasant
flavor.
JELLY FRUIT. Clarify half a pound
of sugar, but the instant before it is quite
clear, put in a small quantity of cochineal;
then strain, and mix with it an ounce of
clarified isinglass, and the juice of two lem-
ons; add to this the fruit of which your jel-
ly is to be composed; stir them together
ltghtly, pour the jelly into a mould quickly,
and put the mould on ice. Observe that the
sugar and isinglass should be no more than
lukewarm when mixed together. These
jellies may be made of any kind of fruit, or
the grated rinds of lemon, orange, or ce-
drats.
JELLY, GLOUCESTER. Take an
ounce of rice, the same of sago, pearl-barley,
hartshorn-shavings, and eringo root; sim-
mer with three pints of water, till reduced
to one pint, strain it. When cold it will be
a jelly; when you use it, serve dissolved in
wine, milk, or broth.
JELLY, GRAPE. Take out the stones,
then mash the grapes with your hands, (they
must be ripe) then squeeze them through a
cloth to extract all the juice from them, and
boil and finish the same as currant jelly.
Use half a pound of sugar to each pound of
fruit.
JELLY, HARTSHORN. Boil half a
pound of hartshorn shavings for three hours
and a half in four pints and a half of water;
strain it through a bit of muslin, and stir in-
to it three ounces of dissolved isinglass; if
large, the peel of one, if small, of two lem-
ons, and their juice, half the peel of an or-
ange, three parts of a tea-cupful of brandy,
and one of white wine; sweeten with pound-
ed loaf sugar, and when lukewarm put it
into a saucepan with the beaten whites of
six eggs ; stir it, and let it boil for two min-
utes; strain it through a jelly-bag two or
three times till perfectly clear.
JELLY, ORANGE. (1) Squeeze the juice
of eight oranges and six lemons, grate the
peel of half the fruit, and steep tt m a pint
of cold water; mix it with the juice, three-
quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, one ounce
and a quarter of isinglass, and the beaten
whites of seven eggs; put it into a sauce-
pan, and stir it till it boils ; let it boil a few
minutes, and strain it through a jelly-bag till
dear; put it into a mould or glasses.
JELLY, ORANGE. (2) Boil in a
pint of water one ounce and a quarter of
picked isinglass, the rind of an orange cut
thin, a stick of cinuamon, a few corianders,
and three ounces of loaf sugar, till the isin-
glass is dissolved; then squeeze two Seville
oranges or lemons, and enough oranges to
make a pint of juice: mix all together, and
strain it through a tamis or lawn sieve into
a basin; set it in a cold place for half an
hour; pour it into another basin free from
sediment; and when it begins to congeal,
fill your mould: when wanted, dip the
mould into lukewarm water ; turn it out on
a dish, and garnish with orange or lemon
cut in slices, and placed round. N. B.—A
few grains of saffron put in the water will
add much to its appearance.
JELLY, OX-HEEL. Slit them in two,
and take away the fat between the claws.
The proportion of water to each heel is
about a quart: let it simmer gently for eight
hours (keeping it clean skimmed); it will
make a pint and a half of strong jelly, which
is frequently used to make calf's feet'jelly,
or to add to mock turtle and other soups.
JELLY, PEACH. Cut ten or twelve
peaches in halves, take out the stones and
peel them; set a pint of smooth clarified su-
gar, diluted with water, on the fire; when
tt has boiled and been skimmed, put in the
peaches, the kernels should be broken and
put in with them; let them boil, very gently
for ten minutes, then take out four or five
of the halves, and lay them on a plate to be
in readiness for garnishing the jelly; let
the remainder of the peaches boil for ten
minutes longer; while they are boiling take
three lemons, cut off the rind, squeeze the
juice through a silk sieve in a basin, pas*
the liquor of the peaches into it, and then
the isinglass, runuing it through the sieve
two or three times, in order to mix it well;
fill the mould half full of jelly, and when set,
put in the peaches and a little more jelly,
and when that is set, fill up the mould.
The reason why the lemons are peeled be-
fore they are squeezed for this jelly is, that
the oil in the rind would rather s|xiil the fla-
vor of the jelly, than be any addition.
JELLY, QUINCE. Quinces for jelly
ought not to be imite ripe, they should, how-
ever, be of a fine yellow color; take off the
down which covers them, quarter, core, put
them into a saucepan, with water enough to
cover them; set them on the fire, and when
soft, lay the pieces on a sieve to drain,
pressing them very sligRtly; strain the li-
quor, and measure it; clarify, and boil to
caase an equal quantity of sugar; then take
it off, add the liquor to it, stirring it well;


JU I
K A V
104
•rhen mixed, pat it on the fire, still stirring;
ms soon as the jolly spreads over the spoon,
and falIs from it like treacle; take it from
the ftre, and when cold, pour it into puts.
JELLY, RASPBERRY. Take two
thirds of rasberries, and one third red cur-
rants; pick them, press the juioe through a
sieve into a pan, cover, and place it in a
cellar, or any other cool place fur three days;
at the end of that time raise the thick skin
formed at the top, and pour the juice into
another vessel: weigh it, an A put it, with
half the quantity of sugar, into a preserving
pan, set it on the fire; a great deal of scum
will rise at first, which must all be taken off;
leave it on the fire for an hour; then pour a
few drops on a cold plate, if it cools of the
proper consistence for jellies, take it from
the fire and whilst hot pour it into pots;
Let the jelly be quite cold before the pots are
covered.
JELLY, RUM. Clarify, and boil to a
sirup, a pound of loaf sugar; dissolve one
ounce of isinglass in half a pint of water,
strain it through a sieve into the sirup when
it is half warm, and when nearly cold, stir
in a quart of white wine; mix it well, and
add one or two table-spoonfuls of old Ja-
maica rum, stir it for a few minutes, and
pour it into a mould, or into glasses.
JELLY, STRAWBERRY. Put some
fresh-gathered strawberries into an earthen
pan, bruise them with a wooden spoon, add
a little cold water, and some finely-pounded
loaf sugar. In an hour or two, strain it
through a jelly-bag, and to a quart of the
juice a3d one ounce of isinglass, which has
been dissolved in half a pint of water, well-
skimmed, strained, and allowed tocool; mix
all well, and pour it into an earthen mould.
Raspl«rry jelly, red currant jelly, and red
currants mixed with raspberries, may be
made exactly in the same manuer; and the
bright red color may be improved by mixing
in a little carmine or lake. When this kmd
of jelly is to be made with cherries, the fruit
should be boiled a-few minutes in clarified
sugar, and when cold, the juice of one or two
lemons may be added with the isinglass.
A little lemon juice may be added to any
of the other jellies, in proportion to the acid-
ity of the fruit.
They may be iced by covering and sur-
rounding the mould with ice, without any salt.
JUICE The proportion of oranges
should be double that of lemons; the fruit
belng selected free from decay, and wiped
dry, they are to I« squeezed, and the juice
strained through a sieve into an earthen pan;
to each pint, according to the acidity of the
fruit, a pound and a half, or a pound and
three-quarters, of double-refined sugar, bro-
ken small, is to be added. It must be stirred
and skimmed daily, till the sugar is well in-
corporated, or as long as the scum rises;
and when it has been a month in the pan, it
may be boiled.
JUICE OF FRESH FRUIT ICED.
Press through a sieve the juice of a pint of
pickled currants or raspberries, add to it
four or five ounces of pounded loaf sugar, a
little lemon juice, and a pint of cream. It
may be whisked previous to freezing, and a
mixture of the juice may be used.
JULIENNE. This soup is composed
of carrots, turnips, leeks, onions, celery, let-
tuce, sorrel and chervil; the roots are cut in
thin slips, about an inch long, the onions are
halved and then sliced; the lettuce and sor-
rel chopped small; toss up the roots in a
little butter, when they are done, add the
lettuces, &c. moisten them with broth, and
boil the whole over a slow fire for an hour or
more, if necessary; prepare some bread in
the usual way, and pour the jultenue over it.
JUMBLES. Mix one pound of fine
flour with one pound of fine powder sugar,
make them into a light paste with whites of
eggs well beaten; add half a pint of cream,
half a pound of fresh butter, melted, and a
pound of blanched almonds, pounded; knead
them all together, thoroughly, with a little
rose water, and cut out the jumbles into
whatever forms you think proper; and eith-
er bake them in a gentle oven, or fry them
in fresh butter; serve them in a dish, melt
fresh butter with a spoonful of mountain, and
strew fine sugar over the dish.
JUSTICE'S ORANGE SIRUP FOR
Punch or Puddtngs. Squeeze the or-
anges, and strain the juice from the pulp
into a large pot; boil it up with a pound and
a half of fine sugar to each pint of juice;
skim it well; let it stand till cold; then
bottle it, and cork it well. 06s.—This
makes a fine, soft, mellow-flavored punch;
and, added to melted butter, is a good relish
to puddings.
K.
KAVTA. Take the hard roes of several
sturgeon, and lay them in a tub of water;
take away all the f,bres as you would from
a calf's brains, then, with a whisk, beat the
roes in the water, shaking off from the whisK
whatever fibres may be adhering to it; then
lay the roes on sieves for a short time; after


KID
KI S
105
which put them into fresh water again; and
contmue to whip them, and change the wa-
ter, until the roes are perfectly cleansed and
free from fibre; lay them on sieves to drain,
season them well with salt and pepper;
wrap them in a coarse cloth, tying them up
like a ball, and let them drain thus till the
next day, when serve them with fried bread,
and shallots chopped small. If they are to
be kept for sometime, put more salt to them.
KEBOBBED VEAL. See Veal,
KELLY'S SAUCE. See Sauce.
KERRY BUTTER MILK. Put six
quarts of butter-milk into a cheese cloth,
hang it in a cool place, and let the whey
\Jrip from it for two or three days; when it
is rather thick, put it into a basin, sweeten
tt with pounded loaf sugar, and add a glass
of brandy, or of sweet wine, and as much
raspberry jam, or sirup, as will color and
give it an agreeable flavor. Whisk it well
together, and serve it in a glass dish.
KETCHUP, ENGLISH. Peel ten
cloves of garlic, bruise them, and put them in-
to a quart of white wine vinegar; take a quart
of white Port, put it on the fire, and when it
boils, put in twelve or fourteen anchovies,
washed and cut in pieces; let them simmer
m the wine till they are dissolved; when
cold, put them to the vinegar; then take
half a pint of white wine, and put into it
some mace, some ginger sliced, a few cloves,
a spoonful of whole pepper bruised; let them
boil a little; when almost cold, slice in a
whole nutmeg, and some lemon-peel, with
two or three spoonfuls of horse-radish; add
it to the rest, stop it close, and stir it once
or twice a day. Keep it close stopped up.
See Mushroom Ketchup.
KEW MINCE. Cut a pound of meat
from a leg of cold roasted mutton, and mince
it very finely, together with six ounces of
suet, mix with it three or four table-spoon-
fuls of crumbs of bread, the beaten yolks of
four eggs, one anchovy chopped, some pep-
per and salt, and half a pint of Port wine;
put it into a caul of veal, and bake it in a
quick oven; turn it out into a dish, and pour
some brown gravy over it; serve with it
venison sauce. When a veal caul is not to
be had, the mince may be done in a sauce-
pan.
KID. Kid is good eating when it is but
three or four months old, its flesh is then
delicate and tender, but is not used after it
has done sucking. To be good, it ought to
be fat and white. It is dressed in the same
manuer as lamb op fawn.
KIDNEYS. Cut'them through the long
way, score them, and sprinkle them over
with a little pepper and salt; in order to
broil all over alike, and to keep them from
curling on the gridiron, run a wire skewer
right through them. They must be broiled
over a clear fire, being careful to turn them
frequently till they are done; they will take
about ten or twelve minutes broiling, provi-
ded they are done over a brisk fire; or, if
you choose, you may fry them in butter, and
make gravy for them in the pan (after the
kidneys are tauten out), by putting in a tea-
spoonful of flour; as soon as it looks brown,
put in a sufficient quantity of water as will
make gravy; they will take five minutes
longer frying than broiling. Garnish with
fried parsley: you may improve them if you
think proper, by chopping a few parsley
leaves very fine, mix them with a bit of fresh
butter, ana a little pepper and salt, and then
put some of this mixture over each kidney.
KISSES. (1) Put the whites of eight
eggs, and two spoonfuls of orange-flower
water, into a China basin, and whisk till
they become a firm froth, then add half a
pound of sifted sugar, stir it in with great
care by means of a spatula: that done, lay
small pieces of this mixture on white paper;
make each drop about the size of a ratafia,
rather conical than flat; place the paper
which contains them on a piece of wood
about an inch thick, and put them in a very
hot oven: watch them, and as soon as you
perceive they begin to look yellowish, take
them out, and detach them from the paper
with a knife as cautiously as possible, for
they are very tender. Take a small spoon,
and with the end of it remove the moist part,
which is at the bottom, so as to make them
a little hollow, and as you do them, lay each
on the paper, the hollow side upwards; put
them on the wood into the oven again for a
few minutes to dry; when done, lay them
in boxes, and keep them in a dry and warm
place. If they are for table, fill the hollow
of each with a little whipped cream or rasp-
berry jam; put them together by couples,
the cream or jam inside; place them in a
dish, and serve them as soon as possible.
KISSES. (2) One pound of the best loaf
sugar, powdered and sifted. The whites of
four eggs. Twelve drops of essence of lem-
on. A tea-cup of currant jelly. Beat the
whites of four eggs till they stand alone.
Then beat in, gradually, the sugar, a tea-
spoonful at a time. Add the essence of lem-
on, and beat the whole very hard. Lay a
wet sheet of paper on the bottom of a square
tin pan. Drop on it, at equal distances, a
small tea-spoonful of stiff currant jelly.
With a large spoon, pile some of the beaten


LAM
LAM
106
whtte of egg and sugar, on each lump of
jelly, so as to cover it entirely. Drop on
the mixture as evenly as possible, so as to
make the kisses of a round smooth shape.
Set them in a cool oven, and as soon as
they are colored, they are done. Then take
them out and place them two bottoms to-
gether. Lay them lightly on a sieve, and
dry ihem in a cool oven, till the two bot-
toms stick fast together, so as to form one
ball or oval.
KNUCKLES. See the several meats
to which they belong.
L.
LAMB. The fore quarter of lamb con-
sists of the shoulder, tbe neck, and the
breast together; the hind quarter is the leg
and loin. There are also the head and
pluck, the fry or sweetbreads, sktrts, lamb-
stones, and liver. In choosing the fore
quarter, the vein in the neck should be rud-
dy, or of a bluish color. In the hind quar-
ter, the knuckle should feel stiff, the kidney
small, and perfectly fresh. To keep it, the
joints should be carefully wiped every day,
and in warm weather, sprjnkled with a lit-
tle pepper. The fore quarter is the prime
joint, and should be roasted and basted
with butter; the gravy is made as for beef
or mutton. Mint sauce is served in a sauce
tureen, and half a lemon is sent to table
with it, the juice of which is squeezed upon
the ribs after the shoulder is cut off, and
they have been sprinkled with salt. If the
joint weighs five pounds, it will require to
be roasted one hour; if ten pounds, one hour
and three-quarters. The hind quarter may
lie roasted, or the leg of it boiled. The
loin is then cut into steaks, fried, and serv-
ed round it; the outside bones being cover-
ed with a fringe of fried parsley. A dish
of spinach is generally served with the
lamb.
LAMB, Is a delicate, and commonly
considered tender meat; but those who talk
of tender lamb, while they are thinking of
the age of the animal, forget that even a
chicken must be kept a proper time after it
has lieen killed, or it will I« tough picking.
To the usual accompaniments of roasted
meat, green mint sauce, and a salad, is com-
monly added; and some cooks, about five
minutes before it is done, sprinkle it with a
little fresh gathered and finely minced pars-
ley. Lamb, and all young meats, ought to be
thoroughly done; therefore do not take either
lamb or veal off the spit till you see it drop
white gravy. When green mint canuot be
got, mint vinegar is an acceptable substitute
tor it; and crisp parsley on a side plate, is
an admirable accompaniment.
Hind-Quarter, Of eight pounds, will
take from ar. hour and three-quarters to two
hours: baste and froth it. The leg and
the loin of lamb, when little, should be
roasted together; the former being lean, the
latter fat, and the gravy is better preserved.
Fore-Quarter, Often pounds, about two
hours. It is a pretty general custom, when
you take ofti the shoulder from the ribs, to
squeeze a Seville orange over them, and
sprinkle them with a little pepper and salt.
This may as well be done by the cook be-
fore it comes to table; some people are not
remarkably expert at dtviding these joints
nicely.-
Leg, Of five pounds, from an hour to an
hour and a half. *
Shoulder, With a quick fire, an hour.
Rlbs, About an hour to an hour and a
quarter: joint it nicely, crack the ribs across,
and divide them from the brisket after it is
roasted.
Loin, An hour and a quarter.
Neck, An hour. 00
Breast, Three-quarters of an hour.
LAMB BREAST. Cut it into pieces,
and stew it in a weak stock, with a glass
of Port wine; add pepper and salt. When
it is perfectly tender, thicken the sauce
with butter and flour. Have ready cucum-
bers stewed in gravy, put them. over the
lamb before serving. A breast of mutton
may be served in the same way.
LAMB CHOPS BROILED. Cut a
loin or best end of the neck into chops, flat-
ten them, and cut off the fat and skin; rub
the gridiron with a little fat, and broil them
on a clear fire. Turn them with steak tongs,
till quite done. Serve them hot.
LAMB CHOPS. Cut a neck or loin of
lamb into chops; rub them over with the
beaten yolk of an egg; dip them into grated
bread, mixed with plenty of chopped pars-
ley, and season with lemon-peel, pepper,
and salt; fry them alight brown in good
dripping; make a sauce with the trimmings,
and thicken the sauce with butter rolled in
flour; add a little lemon pickle and mush-
room ketchup. Garnish with fried parsley.
They may be served with or without the
gravy.
LAMB CUTLETS. Cut the cutlets off
the loin, into round bits; trim off the fat and
skin; dip them into the beaten yolk of an
egg, and then into bread crumbs, mixed
with minced parsley, grated nutmeg, and
lemon-peel, pepper, and salt. Fry them a


LAM
LAR
light brown in clarified beef suet; drain
them on the back of a sieve liefore the ftre.
Serve them with melted butter with a little
lemon pickle in it, or a brown sauce thick-
ened. Garnish with cut lemon.
LAMB DRESSED WITH RICE.
Half roast a small fore quarter of Iamb; cut
it into steaks, season them with a little salt
and pepper; lay them into a dish, and pour
in a little water. Boil a pound of rice
with a blade or two of mace; strain it, and
stir in a good piece of fresh butter, and a
little salt, add also the greater part of the
yolks of four eggs beaten; cover the Iamb
with the rice, and with a feather put over
it the remainder of the beaten eggs. Bake
it in an oven till it has acquired a light
brown color.
LAMB FEET. Clean, well wash, and
blanch six lamb's feet; stew them, till they
become tender, in some white stitck, with a
slice of lean ham, one onion, some parsley,
thyme, two blades of mace, a little whole
pepper, and a few mushrooms. Before
serving, strain the sauce; thicken it with
flour and butter, and half a pint of cream;
boil it a quarter of an hour, add the feet
and the juice of half a small lemon. Gar-
nish with sippets of thin toasted bread, cut
into a three-cornered shape.
LAMB FRY. Fry it plain, or dip it
in an egg well beaten on a plate, and strew
some fine stale bread-crumbs over it; gar-
nish with crisp parsley.
LAMB, LEG OF, BOILED. It should
be boiled in a cloth, that it may look as
white as possible. Cut the loin in steaks,
dip them in egg, strew them over with
bread-crumbs, and fry them a nice brown,
serve them round the dish, and garnish with
dried or fried parsley; serve with spinach
to eat with it.
LAMB PIE, THE GERMAN WAY.
Cut a quarter of lamb into pieces, and lard
them with small lardons of bacon, season-
ed with salt, pepper, cloves, nutmeg, and a
I iay-leaf; add fat bacon pounded, small on-
ions, nutmeg, and sweet herbs; put these
into the pie, and let it bake for three hours;
when baked, cut it open, skim off all the
fat, pour in a ragout of oysters, and serve
hot.
LAMB PIE, A SAVORY ONE. Cut
the meat into pieces, and season it with
pepper, salt, mace, cloves, and nutmeg,
finely beaten. Make a good puff paste
3-ust, put the meat into it, with a few
amb stones and sweetbreads, seasoned
the same as the meat. Then put in some
oysters and forcemeat balls, the yolks of
hard eg^s, and the tops of asparagus, about
two inches long, fiist boiled green. Put
butter all over the pie, put on the lid, and
| let it bake for an hour and a half in a quick
I oven. In the meantime, take a pint of gra-
vy, the oyster liquor, a gill of red wine, and
a little grated nutmeg. Mix all together
with the yolks of two or three eggs, finely
beaten, and keep stirring it the same way
all the time. When it boils, pour it into
the pie, put on the lid again, and serve it to
| table.
LAMB, TO ROAST OR BOIL. A
I quarter of an hour is generally allowed to
; each pound of meat; a leg of lamb of five
pounds will therefore take an hour and a
quarter to roast or boil, the other joints in
the same proportion; serve either with sa-
lad, pickles, brocoli, cauliflowers, string
beans, pease, potatoes, or cucumbers, raw
or stewed.
LAMB SHOULDER, GRILLED. Boil
it; score it in chequers about m inch square,
ruh it over with the yolk of an egg, pepper
and salt it, strew it with bread-crumbs and
dried parsley, or sweet herbs, and carbo-
nado, i. e. grill, t. e. broil it over a clear
fire, or put it in a Dutch oven till it is a
nice light brown; send up some gravy with
it, or make a sauce for it of flour and water
well mixed together with an ounce of fresh
butter, a table-spoonful of mushroom or
walnut ketchup, and the juice of half a lem-
on. See Grill sauce. Breasts of lamb
are often done in the same way, and with
mushroom or mutton sauce.
LAMB STEAKS FRIED. Fry them
of the nicest brown; when served, throw
over them a good quantity of crumbs of
bread fried, and crisped -parsley. Or you
may season them and broil them in buttered
paiiers, either with crumbs and herbs, or
without, according to taste.
LARD, HOG'S. The 'lard should be
carefully melted in a jar, put into a kettle
of water, and boiled; run it into bladders
that have been particularly well cleaned.
It is best to have the bladders small, as the
lard will keep better, for, after the air
reaches it, it becomes rank. Whilst it is
melting, put in a sprig of rosemary. This
being a very useful article in frying fish, it
.should be prepared with great care. Mix-
ed with batter, it makes a fine crust.
LARKS. These delicate little birds are
in high season in November. When they
are thoroughly picked, gutted, and cleansed,


LEI
LEM
108
truss them; do them over with the yolk of
egg, and then roll them in bread-crumbs;
spit them on a lark spit, and fasten that on
to a larger spit, ten or fifteen minutes will
be sufficient time to roast them in before a
fire; whilst they are roasting, baste
with fresh butter, and sprinkle them
with bread-crumbs till they are well cover-
ed wtth them. Fry some grated bread in
butter, set it to dram before the fire, that it -
may harden. Serve the crumbs in the dish
under the larks, and garnish with slices of
lemon.
LAVENDER DROPS. Fill a quart
bottle with the blossoms of lavender, and
pour on it as much brandy as it will contain;
let it stand ten days, then strain it, and add
of nutmeg bruised, cloves, mace, and cochi-
neal, a quarter of an ounce each, and bot-
tle it for use. In nervous cases, a little may
be taken dropped on a bit of sugar; and in
the beginuing of a bowel complaint, a tea-
spoonful, taken in half a glass of pepper-
mint water, will often prove efficacious.
LAVENDER WATER. Put into a
large bottle, eight ounces of the best recti-
fied spirits of wine, three drachms of oil of
lavender, one drachm of essence of amber-
gris, and threepence-worth of musk; cork
it tightly, and shake it well every day, for
a fortnight or three weeks.
LEAVES, TO GREEN, FOR ORNA-
MENTING FRUIT. Take small leaves
of a pear-tree, keep them close stopped in
a pan of verjuice and water, give them a
boil in some sirup of apricots; put them be-
tween two pieces of glass to dry; smooth
and cut them into the shape of apricot-
leaves (the leaves should be procured with
stalks); stick them about the apricots or
any other preserved fruit; but the leaves
must be cut in the shape of the leaf which
belongs to the fruit you ornament.
LEEKS. Leeks are most generally used
for soups, ragouts, and other made dishes,
they are very rarely brought to table; in
which case dress them as follows:—Put
them into the stock-pot till about three parts
done; then take them out, drain, and soak
them in vinegar seasoned with pepper, salt,
and cloves; drain them again, stuff the
hearts with a farce, dip them in batter, and
fry them.
LEIPZEGER PANCAKES. Beat well
the whites of four, and thc yolks of eight
fresh eggs, and add, by degrees, half a
pound of pounded loaf sugar, a pint and a
half of sweet cream just warmed, half a
pound of clarified fresh butter, two table-
spoonfuls of fresh yeast, and a wine-glass full
of spirits of wine; then mix in as much sifted
flour as will make it into a thick oatter;
let it rise for half an hour; roll it out thin;
cut it into rounds or oblong pieces, and lav
on them jam or marmalade; double them,
and let them stand again to rise, and fry
them in boiling fresh lard or butter.
LEMONADE. To a gallon of spring
water add some cinuamon and cloves, plen-
ty of orange and plenty of lemon-juice, and
a bit of the peel of each; sweeten well with
loaf sugar, and whisk it with the whites of
six eggs, and the yolk of one; give it a boil,
and then let it simmer for ten minutes; then
run it through a jelly-bag, and let it stand
till cold, before it is drank.
LEMONADE TRANSPARENT. The
peel of fourteen lemons having been soaked
in two quarts of water for two hours, their
juice, one pound and a half of sugar, and a
quart of white wine, are to be added; a
quart of new milk, made boiling hot, is then
to be mixed with it, and when it has stood
an hour, it is to be strained through a jelly-
bag till it runs clear.
LEMON BONBONS. Take two pounds
of the best lump sugar, clarify and boil it to
caramel; but just before it reaches that
point, grate the rind of a lemon and put in
it; in the meanwhile melt a little butter;
skim, and pour it off clear; take a spoonful
of this butter, and rub it with your hand over
a copperplate or marble slab, on which pour
the caramel sugar: then have a sword blade,
take an end in each hand, and impress lines
in the sugar about an inch apart; then im-
press similar lines across the first, so as to
form small cakes; this operation should be
performed as quickly as possible, lest the
sugar should cool before the whole is mark-
ed; when however all is done, pass the
blade carefully between the sugar and the
slab, lay it on sheets of white paper, and
when perfectly cold, separate the bonbons,
and wrap each in paper; keep them in a
dry place.
LEMON BRANDY. Three quarts of
brandy being put into an earthen jar that is
fitted with a cover, a pound and three-quar-
ters of fine loaf sugar, the thin parings of
six lemons, and the juice of twelve, are to
be added; one quart of boiling milk is to be
poured over the mixture, which must be
stirred daily for eight days; it is then to be
run through a jelly-bag and bottled.
LEMON CHEESECAKES. Boil the
peel of two large lemons till they are quite
tender, and then pound it well in a mortar,


LEM
LEM
109
wtth four or five ounces of loaf sug tr, the
yolks of six eggs, half a poun|j of fresh but-
ter, and a little curd beaten fine: pound and
mix altogether, lay a rich puff paste in some
patty-pans, fill them half full, and bake them
carefully.
LEMON CHEESECAKES. Mix four
ounces of sifted lump sugar, and four ounces
of butter together, and gently melt it; then
add the yolks of two, and the white of one
egg, the rind of three lemons shred fine, and
the juice of one lemon and a half, one sa-
vory biscuit, some blanched almonds, pound-
ed, three spoonfuls of brandy; mix the
whole well together^ and put it to paste
made with the following ingredients: eight
ounces of flour, six ounces of butter, two-
thirds of which must be mixed with the
flour first; then wet it with six spoonfuls of
water, and roll in the remainder of the but-
ter.
LEMON CHIPS. Take large smooth-
rinded Malaga lemons; race or cut off their
peel into chips with a small knife (this will
require some practice to do it properly);
th row them into salt and water till next
day; have ready a pan of boiling water,
throw them in and boil them tender. Drain
them well: after having lain sometime in
water to cool, put them in an earthen pan,
pour over enough boiling clarified sugar to
cover them, and then let them He two days;
then strain the sirup, put more sugar, and
reduce it by boiling till the sirup is quite
thick; put in the chips, and simmer them a
few minutes, and set them by for two days:
repeat it once more; let them be-two days
longer, and they will be fit to candy, which
must be done as follows: take four pints of
clarified sugar, which will be sufficient for
six pounds of chips, boil it to the degree of
blown (which may be known by dipping the
skimmer into the sugar, and blowing strong-
ly through the holes of it; if little bladders
appear, it has attained that degree); and
when the chips are thoroughly drained and
wiped on a clean cloth, put them into the
sirup, stirring them about with the skimmer
tiil you see the sugar become white; then
take them out with two forks; shake them
lightly into a wire sieve, and set them into
a stove, or in a warm place to dry. Orange
chi, s are done in the same way.
LEMON ESSENCE. Rasp your lem-
ons all round, very thin, and for every quar-
ter of a pound of rind, allow one pound of
sugar; mix it well with a large spaddle till
you find it is all of the same color, and that
the rind is well mixed; put it into a stone
jar, and press it down as hard as you can;
put a bladder over the paper you cover with,
tn •'
and tie it over quite tight; put it by, and in
a month's time it will be fit for use.
LEMON JUICE TO PRESERVE.
Squeeze, and stratn a pint of lemon-juice;
put into a China basin one pound of double-
refined sugar finely pounded and sitted, add
the, lemon-juice, and stir it with a silver
spoon till the sugar be perfectly dissolved.
Bottle it, and cork it tightly; seal the cork,
or tie bladder over it, and keep it in a dry
cool place.
LEMON MARMALADE. Allow to a
pound of lemons eighteen ounces of fine
loaf sugar; grate the rind of a few; cut
them into half; squeeze and strain the juice;
boil the skins in the same way as those
of tlte orange skins are done; scoop out the
pulp and white part; cut half into thin chips
or parings, and pound the other half in a
mortar; pound the sugar, and pour over it
the juice; stir, and let it boil for five min-
utes; skim it; take it off the fire; put in the
parings and the pounded skins; boil it for
five minutes, then add the grate:I peel, and let
it boil for five minutes more ; take it off, and
stir it tiil half cold, before putting it into jars.
LEMON MINCE PIES. Squeeze out
the juice from a large lemon; boil the out-
side tili sufficiently tender to beat to a mash,
add to it three large apples chopped, and
four ounces of suet, half a pound ol currants,
four ounces of sugar; put the juice of the
lemon, and add candied fruit, the same as
for other pies. Make a short crust, and fill
the patty-pans in the usual manuer.
LEMON-PEEL ESSENCE. Wash
and brush clean the lemons; let them get
perfectly dry: take a lump of loaf sugar, and
rub them till all the yellow rind is taken up
by the sugar: scrape off the surface of the
sugar into a preserving pot, anoi press it
hard down; cover it very close, and it will
keep for sometime.
LEMON-PEEL QUINTESSENCE.
Best oil of lemon, one drachm, strongest
rectified spirit, two ounces, introduced by
degrees till the spirit kills, and completely
.mixes with the oil. This elegant prepara-
tion possesses all the delightful fragrance and
flavor of the freshest lemon-peel. Obs.—A
few drops on the sugar you make punch with
will instantly impregnate it with as much
flavor as the troublesome and tedious meth-
od of grating the rind, or rubbing the sugar
on it. It will be found a superlative sub-
stitute for fresh lemon-peel for every purpose
that it is used for: blancmange, jellies, cus-
tards, ice, negus, lemonade, and pies and pud-
dings, stuffings, soups, sauces, ragouts, ficc
.


LEM
LEM
110
LEMON-PEEL TINCTURE. A very
easy and economical way of obtaining, and
preserving the flavor of lemon-peel, is to fill
a wide-mouthed pint bottle half full of bran-
dy, or proof spirit; and when you use a
lemon, pare the rind off very thin, and put
it into the brandy, &c.: in a fortnight it
will impregnate the spirit with the flavor
very strongly.
LEMON PICKLE. (1) Grate off a
little of the outer rind of two dozen of lem-
ons, divide them into four rather more than
half way down, leaving the bottom part
whole; rub on them equally half a pound
of finely-beaten sak, spread them upon a
large dish, and put them into a cool oven.
When the juice bas dried up, put them into
a stone jar, with an ounce of cloves and one
of mace finely beaten, one ounce of nutmeg
cat into thin slices, a quarter of an ounce of
cayenue, and four ounces of garlic peeled,
also half a pint of white mustard-seed bruis-
ed and tied in a bit of muslin. Pour over
'the whole two quarts of boiling vinegar,
stop the jar closely, and let it stand for three
months; then strain it through a hair sieve,
pressing it well through; let it stand till the
next day, pour off the clear, and put it into
small bottles. Let the dregs stand covered
some days, when it will become fine. It
will keep good for years. When the lem-
ons are to be used as pickle, no straining is
necessary.
LEMON PICKLE. (2) Cut into quar-
ters, and pick out all the seeds of six mid-
dling sized lemons; put them into a jar,
strew over them two ounces of well beaten
salt; cover the jar with a cloth and plate,
and let it stand three days; then put to them
cloves and a quarter of an ounce of mace
beaten fine, one ounce of garlic or shallot,
two of mustard-seed bruised, and one nut-
meg sliced. Make a quart of vinegar boil-
ing hot, and pour it over the ingredients;
cover the jar, and in three or four days close
it with a bung, and tie leather over it. It
will be fit for use in a week, and is an im-
provement to most sauces, and particularly
to fish sauce.
LEMON POSSET. Squeeze the juice
of two lemons into a China bowl, or small
deep dish, that will hold a quart; sweeten
it like sirup, add a little brandy; boil one
pint of cream with a bit of orange-peel;
takeout the peel; when cold, put the cream
into a teapot, pour it to the sirup, holding
it high. Make it the day before it is want-
ed.:
LEMON PUDDING. See Pudding.
LEMON RINDS MARMALADE.
Having squeezed the juice from your lemons,
cut out all the white part, and put the rinds
into boiling water; as soon as they begin to
soften, take them from the fire, and tbrow
them into cold water; then lay them on a
sieve to drain, and make them into marma-
lade, in the same manuer as apricots. Or-
ange rinds are done this way.
LEMON SPONGE. Boil hahian ounce
of isinglass in a pint of water till dissolved;
strain it, and the following day add the
juice of two lemons, and the grated peel of
one; rub through a hair sieve, into the isin-
glass a good quantity of raspberry jam, that
has stood before the lire some time, and
whisk it all together till like a sponge; put
it into an earthen mould, set it in a cold
place for some hours, and turn it out. Any
, ther sort of preserve may be used, and if
made with only orange or lemon-juice,
sweeten it with sugar, or make it wtth
orange jelly which may have been left the
day before.
LEMON SYLLABUBS. Take a pmt
of cream, a pint of white wine, the peel of
two lemons grated, and the juice; sugar ac-
cording to taste; let it .stand some time;
mill or whip it, lay the froth on a sieve; put
the remainder into glasses, and lay on the-
froth. They should be made the day before
they are wanted. If you should wish them
to taste very strong of the lemon, you must
make use of the juice of six lemons, and
nearly a pound of sugar; they will keep
four or five days.
LEMONS, SIRUP OF. Pat a pint of
fresh lemon-juice to a pound and three-
quarters of lump sugar; dissolve it by a
gentle heat; skim it till the surface is quite
clear; add an ounce of thin-cut lemon-peel;
let them simmer (very gently) together for a
few minutes, and run it through a flanuel.
When cold, bottle and cork it closely, and
keep it in a cool place. Or, Dissolve a
quarter of an ounce (avoirdupois) of citric,
i. e. crystallized lemon acid, in a pint of
clarified sirup; flavor it with the peel, or
dissolve the acid in equal parts of simple
sirup, and sirup of lemon-peel.
LEMON WATER. Put two slices of
thinly pared lemon into a teapot, a little bit
of the peel, and a bit of sugar, or a large
spoonful of capillaire; pour in a pint of boil-
ing water, and stop it close for two houri.
LEMON CONSERVE, WHITE. Boil
a pound of the finest sugar, take it off the
fire, and squeeze into it the juice of one
lemon at different times, stirring continually;


LOB
LOB
111
it wtll make the sugar as white as milk if
properly done; take care not to drop any
of the seeds into it; work it well together,
and when it is of an equal substance (which
prove in the same manuer as any other jelly),
pour it into a mould. Lemon conserve is
made in the same manuer, only that the su-
gar must be boiled to a greater height than
for white lemon conserve.
LOBSTER. Buy these alive; the lob-
ster merchants sometimes keep them till
they are starved, before they boil them;
they are then watery, have not half their
flavor, and like other persons that die of a
consumptton, have lost the calf of their legs.
Choose those that (as an old cook says, are
"heavy and lively," and) are full of mo-
tion, which is the index of their freshness.
Those of the middle size are l he best. Nev-
er take them when the shell is incrusted,
which is a sign they are old. The male
lobster is preferred to eat, and the female
(on account of the eggs) to make sauce of.
The hen lobster is distinguished by having a
broader tail than the male, and less claws.
Set on a pot, with water salted in propor-
tion of a table-spoonful of salt to a quart of
water; when the water boils, put it in, and
keep it boiling briskly from half an hour to
an hour, according to its size; wipe all the
scum off it, and rub the shell wtth a very
little butter or sweet oil; break off the
great claws, crack them carefully in each
joint, so that they may not be shattered,
and yet come to pteces easily; cut the tail
down the middle, and send up the body
whole.
LOBSTERS, to choose. The heaviest
are considered the best. When alive, if they
are quite fresh, the claws will have a strong
motion when you put your finger on the eyes
and press them. When you buy them ready
boiled, try whether their tails a. n stiff and
pull up with a spring, otherwise that part
will be flabby. The cock-lobster may be
ifistinguished from the hen by the narrow
back part of the tail, and the two uppermost
fins within it are stiff and hard; but those
of the hen are soft, and the tail broader.
The male, though generally the smallest, has
the highest flavor, the flesh is firmer, and
the color when boiled is a deeper red. They
come in about April, and remain in season
till the oysters return. Hen lobsters are
preferred for sauces, on account of their
coral.
%.C3X' Lobsters are sold in Boston, al-
ready boiled, and are always fresh and
good.
LOBSTER A LA BRAISE. Pound
the meat of a large lobster very fine with
two ounces of butter, and season it with
grated nutmeg, salt, and white pepper; add
a little grated bread, beat up two eggs, re-
serve part to put over the meat, and with
the rest make it up into the form of a lob-
ster. Pound the spawn and red part, and
spread it over it; bake it a quarter of an
hour, and just before serving, lay over it the
tail and body shell, with the small claws put
underneath to resemble a lobster.
LOBSTERS or CRABS, buttered.
Pick all the meat from the bodies of either,
mince it small, put it into a saucepan with
two or three table-spoonfuls of white wine,
one of lemon-pickle, and three or four of
rich gravy, a bit of butter, some salt, pep-
per, and grated nutmeg; thicken it with
the yolks of two eggs beat up, and when
quite hot, put it into the large shells; gar-
nish them with an edging of bread toasted.
LOBSTER FRICASSEE. Break the
shells, and take out the meat carefully, cut
it and the red part, or coral, into pieces,
adding the spawn; thicken with flour and
butter some white stock, with which the
shells have been boiled; season it with
white pepper, mace, and salt, put in the
lobster and heat it up; just before serving,
add a ltttle lemon-juice, or lemon pickle.
The stock may be made with the shells, only
boiled in a pint of water, with some white
pepper, salt, and a little mace, thickened
with cream, flour, and butter.
LOBSTER KETCHUP. Choose a
lobster that is full of spawn, and weighing
as nearly as possible three pounds; pick out
all the meat, and pound the red part or co-
ral m a marble mortar; when completely
bruised, add the meat; pound, and moisten
it with a little sherry wine, mix with it a
tea-spoonful of cayenue, add the rest of the
bottle of sherry, and mix it thoroughly; put
it into two wide-mouthed bottles, and on
the top put a small table-spoonful of whole
pepper, cork the bottles tightly, and tie
them over with leather. It will keep good
a twelve-month, and exactly resembles fresh
lobster sauce. Four table-spoonfuls heated
in melted butter are sufficient for a large
sauce-tureen.
LOBSTER PATTIES. (1) Pick the
meat and red berries out of a lobster, mince
them finely, add grated bread, chopped pars-
ley, and butter; ;eason with grated nutmeg,
white pepper, and salt; add a little white
stock, cream, and a table-spoonful of white
wine, with a few chopped oysters; heat it
all together. Line the patty-pans with puff
paste; put into each a bit of crumb of bread,
about an inch square, wet the edge of the


LOB
M A C
112
paste, and cover it with another bit; with
the paste-cutter mark it all round the rim,
and pare oft tin; paste round the edge of the
patty-pan. When baked, take off die top,
and with a knife take out the bread and a
little of the inside paste, put in the prepar-
ed lobster, lay on the top paste, and serve
them in a napkin. Another way to pre-
pare the paste.—Roll it out nearly half an
inch thick, and cut it into rounds with a
tin cutter, and, with one or two sizes less,
mark it in the middle about half through.
When they are baked, carefully cut out the
inuer top of the paste, and scoop out the in-
side, so as to make room for the mince, which
put in, and place on the top.
LOBSTER PATTIES. (2) Prepare the
patties as in the last receipt. Take a hen
lobster already boiled; pick the meat from
the tail and claws, and chop it fine; put it
into a sfewpan, with a little of the inside
spawn pounded in a mortar till quite smooth,
an ounce of fresh butter, half a gill of cream,
and half a gill of veal consomme, cayenue
pepper, and salt, a tea-spoonful of essence
of anchovy, the same of lemon-juice, and a
table-spoonful of flour and water: stew it
five minutes.
LOBSTER PIE. (1) Boil the lobsters,
and cut the meat of the tail into four bits; take
out the meat from the claws and bodies,
pound it in a mortar, add the soft part of
one lobster, and season with pepper, salt,
and nutmeg, add three table-spoonfuls of
vinegar; melt half a pound of butter, and
mix it with, the pounded meat and the crumb
of a slice of grated bread. Put puff paste
round the edge and side of the dish; put in
the tail of the lobster, then a layer of oys-
ters with their liquor, and next the pounded
meat; cover it with a puff paste, and bake
it till the paste tie done. Before serving,
pour in some rich gravy, made of a little
weak stock in which the lobster shells have
been boiled, with an onion, pepper, and
salt, and which has been strained and thick-
ened with a bit of butter rolled in flour.
LOBSTER PIE. (2) Take out, as
whole as possible, the meat from the tail
and claws of two or three boiled lobsters;
cut them into slices, and season them with
nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Make a force-
meat of ttte soil part of the bodies, together
with grated bread, some parsley, and one
anchovy minced, grated lemon-peel, mace,
salt, and pepper, the yolks of two hard-
boiled eggs bruised, and a bit of butter; mix
it all together with the well-beaten yolk of
an egg, and make it up into small balls.
Put the lobster into the pie-dish, and cover
with the forcemeat balk, and hard-boiled
| yolks of eggs; add more than half a pint of
| rich white stock, a glass of white wine, and
'a table-spoonful of lemon-juice or vinegar
Oner it with puff paste, and uake it only
till the paste be done.
LOBSTER SAUCE. Choose a fine
spawny hen lobster; be sure h is fresh, pick
out the spawn and the red coral into a mor-
tar, add to it half an ounce of butter, pound
it quite smooth, and rub it through a hair-
sieve with the back of a wooden spoon; cut
the meat of the lobster into small squares, or
pull it to pieces w ith a fork; put the pound-
ed spawn into as much melted butter as you
think will do, and stir it together till ft is
thoroughly mixed; now put to it the meat
of the lobster, and warm it on the fire; take
care it does not boil, which will spoil its
complexion, and its brilliant red color will
immediately fade. The above is a very easy
and excellent manuer of making this sauce.
Some use strong beef or veal gravy instead
of melted butter, adding anchovy, cayenue,
ketchup, cavice, lemon-juice, or pickle, or
wine, &c.
LUNCHEON FOR AN INVALID.
Put bread crumbs and red currant,or any other
jelly, alternately into a tumbler, and when
nearly half full, fill it up with milk.
M.
MACARONI, TO MAKE. Beat four
eggs for eight or ten minutes, strain them,
and stir in flour till stiff enough to work into
a paste upon a marble, or stone slab; add
flour till it be a stiff paste, and work it well;
cut off a small bit at a time, roll it out as
thin as paper, and cut it with a paste-cut-
ter or knife into very narrow strips; twist,
and lay them upon a clean cloth, in a dry,
warm place; in a few hours it will be per-
fectly hard; put it into a box, with white
paper under and over it. It may be cut in-
to small stars, or circles, to be used for soup,
and does not require so much boiling as the
Italian Macaroni.
MACARONI. The usual mode of dress-
ing it in England is by adding a white
sauce, and Parmesan or Cheshire cheese,
and burning it; but this makes a dish which
is proverbially unwholesome, its bad quali-
ties arise from the oiled and burnt cheese,
and the half-dressed flour and butter put into
the white sauce. Macaroni plain boded,
and some rich stock or portable soup added
u 't quite hot, will be found a delicnus^dish
and very wholesome. Or, boil macaroni as
directed in the receipt for the pudding, and


MAC
MAC
1
13
serve tt quite hot in a deep tureen, and let
each guest add grated Parmesan and cold
butter, or oiled butter served hot, and it is
excellent; this is the most common Italian
mode of dressing it. Macaroni with cream,
sugar, and cinuamon, or a little varicelli
added to the cream, makes a very nice sweet
dish. See Macaroni Pudding for the
Boiling of it.
MACARONI DRESSED SWEET.
Boil two ounces of macaroni in a pint of
milk, with a bit of lemon-peel, and a good
bit of cinuamon, till the pipes are swelled to
their utmost size without breaking. Lay
them on a custard-dish, and pour a custard
over them hot. Serve cold.
MACARONI GRATIN. Lay fried
bread pretty closely round a dish, boil your
macaroni in the usual way, and pour it into
the dish; smooth it all over, and strew bread-
crumbs on it, then a pretty thick layer of
grated Parmesan cheese; drop a little melt-
ed butter on it, and color it with a salaman-
der.
MACARONI NAPOLITAINE. BoiI
two pounds of macaroni for half an hour, in
salt and water; then put it into a cullender
to drain. Take three-quarters of a pound
of cheese grated; put a layer of macaroni,
in a deep dish or tureen, and on it a layer
of macaroni, the cheese, and so on, alter-
nately, till both are used up, making the
cheese the top; pour over it some gravy,
meh half a pound of fresh butter, and'put on
the whole. Serve it very hot.
MACARONI TO SERVE. (1) Sim-
mer it in a little stock, with pounded mace
and salt. When q ii .. teader, take it out
of the liquor, lay it in a dish, grate over it a
good deal of cheese, then over that put bread
grated very fine. Warm some butter with-
out oiling, and pour, it from a boat througn
a little earthen cullender all over the crums,
then put the dish in a Dutch oven to roast
the cheese, and brawn the bread of a fine
color. The bread should be in separate
crums, and look light.
MACARONI TO SERVE. (2) Wash
it well, and simmer it in half milk, and
half of veal or mutton stock, till the
macaroni is tender; then take a spoonful
of the liquor, put to it the yolk of an egg,
beaten in a spoonful of cream; just make it
hot to thicken, but do not let it boil; pour
it over the macaroni, and then grate fine old
cheese all over it, and add bits of butter;
brown it nicely with the salamander.
MACARONI STEWED. Boilaquar-
ter of a pound of macaroni in beef stock, ttll
nearly done; then strain it, and add a gill
of cream, two ounces of butter, a table spoon-
ful of the essence of ham, three ounces of
grated Parmesan cheese, and a little cayenue
pepper and salt; mix them over a fire for
five minutes, then put it on a dish, strew
grated Patmesan cheese over it, smooth it
over with a knife, and color it with a very
hot salamander.
MACARONI TIMBALE. Take some
puff paste, roll it thin, and cut it into narrow
bands; twist each into a kind of cord,
which place round the insides of buttered
moulds, snail fashion; fill each mould with
macaroni, cover the tops with grated bread,
and Parmesan cheese (equal quantities of
each); put the Timbales into a warm oven,
and bake them three-quarters of an hour;
then turn them on a dish, and serve.
MACAROONS. Take a pound of sweet
almonds blanched, and nicely pounded, add a
little rose-water to prevent their oiling; add
a pound of sifted sugar, then whisk the whites
of ten eggs to a solid froth, and add to
the above; beat all together for some time.
Have ready wafer paper on tin plates, drop
the mixture over it separately, the size of a
shilling, or smaller; sift over them a little
sugar, and Iiake them.
MACAROONS, SWEET. Blanch a
pound of sweet almonds, throw them into
cold water for a few minutes, lay them in a
napkin to dry, and leave them for twenty-
four hours; at the end of that time, pound
them, a handful at a time, adding occasion-
ally some white of egg, till the whole is re-
duced to a fine paste; then take two pounds
of the best lump sugar, pound and sift it,
then put it to the almonds, with the grated
rinds of two lemons; beat these ingredients
together in the mortar, adding one at a time,
as many eggs as you find necessary to moist-
en the paste, whtch should be thin, but not
too much so, as in that case it would run;
your paste being ready, take out a little in a •
spoon, and lay the macaroons on sheets of
white paper either round or oval, as you
please; lay them at least an inch apart, be-
cause they spread in baking, and if put near-
er would touch. The whole of your paste
being used, place the sheets of paper on
tins in a moderate oven for three-quarters o^
an hour.
This kind of cake requires great care and
attention; it will be well therefore to take
notice of the following rules: 1. To mind
that the almonds are perfectly dry before
you begin to pound them. 2. Take great
care that not a particle of the yolk is mixed
with the white of egg, which would entirelv
10*


MAC
MAI
1
14
spoil the color of the macaroons, and prevent
their rising in the oven; to avoid this, open
each separately, and if perfectly fresh, divide
the yolk and white with great care. 3. The
oven must be no more than moderately heat-
ed, nothing Ix'ing more liable to hur u than
almonds and sugar; by the least negligence
in this respect, the surface would be burned,
whilst the inside would remain unbaked.
The best method to obviate any mischief of
this sort:—put two or three macaroons into
the oven to try it; leave them in the usual
time; and if, when you take them out, they
are of a clear yellow, the oven is properly
heated, and the whole of the macaroons may
then be put in.
MACKEREL, TO CHOOSE. Their
gills should be of a fine red, their eyes full,
and the whole feh stiff and bright; if the
gills are of a faint color, the fish limber and
wrinkled, they are not fresh.
MACKEREL BAKED. Cut off their
heads, open them, and take out the roes and
clean them thoroughly; rub them on the in-
side with a little pepper and salt, put the
roes in again, season them (with a mixture
of powdered allspice, black pepper, and
salt, well rubbed together), and lay them
close in a baking-pan, cover them with equal
quantities of cold vinegar and water, tie
them down with strong white paper doubled,
and bake them for an hour in a slow oven.
They will keep for a fortnight.
MACKEREL BOILED. This fish
loses its life as soon as it leaves the sea, and
the fresher it is the better. Wash and clean
them thoroughly (the fishmongers seldom do
this sufficiently), put them into cold water
with a handful of salt in it; let them rather
simmer than boil; a small mackerel will be
done enough in about a quarter of an hour;
when the eye starts and the tail splits, they
are done; do not let them stand in the wa-
ter a moment after; they are so delicate
that the heat of the water will break them.
MACKEREL BROILED. Clean a fine
large mackerel, wipe it on a dry cloth, and
cut a long slit down the back; lay it on a
clean gridiron, over a very clear, slow fire;
when it is done on one side, turn it; be
careful that it does not burn; send it up
with fenuel sauce; mix well together a
little finely minced fenuel and parsley, sea-
soned w ith a bttle pepper and salt, a bit of
fresh butter, and when the mackerel are
ready for the table, put some of this into
each fish.
MACKEREL, THE GERMAN WAY.
Split them down the back, and season them
with pepper and salt; broil them, and servo
with the following sauce; pick and wash
some fenuel, parsley, mint, thyme, and green
onions; but use only a small quantity of each.
Boil them tender in a little veal stock; then
chop lbem up, and add to them some fresh
butter, the liquor they were boiled in, some
grated nutmeg, the juice of half a'lemon, a
little cayenue pepper, and salt. Let it boil,
thicken it with flour, and serve In a saute
boat.
MADE DISHES. Be careful to trim
off all the skin, gristle, &c. that will not be
eaten; and shape handsomely, and of even
thickness, the various articles which compose
your made dishes: this is sadly neglected by
common cooks. Only stew them till they
are just tender, and do not stew them to
rags; therefore, what you prepare the day
belbre it is to be eaten, do not dress quite
enough the first day. We have given re-
ceipts for the most easy and simple way to
make hashes, &c. Those who are well
skilled in culinary arts can dress up things
in this way, so as to be as agreeable as they
were the first time they were cooked.
MADELAINES. Take nine ounces of
powder-sugar, eight of flour, the yolks of
four and six whole eggs, two spoonfuls of
brandy, and a grain of salt; put these into
a saucepan, stirring continually, until the
paste thickens; alter which, stir only one
minute; clarify ten ounces of good fresh but-
ler, with which, butter about two and thirty
madelaine moulds, pour the remainder of the
butter into your preparation; set it on a
gentle stove, stir till it begins to become li-
quid, take it off before it has time to get too
hot, put a little of this into each mould, and
bake them in a moderate oven.
MADELAINES IN SURPRISE.
Make them in the usual way; when cold,
cut a thin slice from the bottom, take out
nearly all the inside; pound four ounces
of blanched filberts, mix them with eight
spoonfuls of apricot marmalade, which
mixture put into the madelaines, and place
the slice taken from the bottom, and serve
them.
MAITRE D'HOTEL, COLD. Put a
quarter of a pound of butter into a saucepan,
with some parsley and shallots, minced small
salt, whole pepper, and lemon-juice; mix
the whole together with a wooden spoon.
Pour the Maitre diHotel eithet over, un-
der, or into whatever meat or fish you in-
tend to serve.
MAITRE D'HOTEL MAIGRE. Put
into some nicely melted butter a little chop-


MAT
MIL
115
ped parsley, salt, and lemon-juice; one or
two minced shallots may be added, and heat
it all together.
MARCHPANE ROYAL. Take a
pound of sweet almonds, blanch and throw
them iuto cold water, drain and pound them,
moistening wsth orange-flower and plain
water, but take care not to put too much at
once. The almonds being reduced to a
paste, put them iuto a preserving pan with
half a pound of powder sugar, set the pan
on a moderate fire to dry the pasle, which
will be sufficieutly so if, when you touch it,
it no longer sticks to your finger, then take
it out and place it on a plate or wafer paper,
previously sprinkled with sugar: as soon as
it is cold cut it in pieces, which roll in your
hand to the size of your little finger; form
them into rings, and lay them on iron grat-
ings, glaze and put them iuto a brisk oven
to color. The above paste may also be em-
ployed as follows: roll it out and cut it in
naif, spread over one piece apricot marma-
lade, or any other preserve vou please, cover
it with the other piece, cut it iuto lozenges,
cresceuts, &c., according to your fancy, lay
them on the grating as above, glaze and co-
lor them in a quick oven.
MARJORAM, SWEET, TO PRE-
SERVE. Beat up very well the white of
an egg, then lieat very fine and sift some
double-refined sugar; take some marjoram
and rub it on a glass that is quite clean, and
lay it in the form of the glass; so do it with
the egg, then sear it with the sugar on it, and
lay it on paper to dry.
MARMALADE. Marmalade may be
composed of almost any faiits; the best,
however, for this purpose are, apricots, peach-
es, oranges, quinces, egg-plums, apples, &c.
They are usually made by boiling the fruit
and sugar together to a kind of pulp, stir-
ring them constautly whilst on the fire; it is
kept in pots, which must not lie covered till
the marmalade is quite cold. The propor-
tion of sugar is half a pound to each pound
of fruit.
'd/23 'See Names of Articles, of which
it is made.
MARROW BONES. Chop the hones
at each end so as to stand steady, then wash
them clean, saw them in halves, cover the
top with a floured cloth: boil them, and serve
with dry toast.
MATELOTE MEAT. Take beef, veal,
mutton, and pork, a large slice of each, and
a small one of leg of lamb; cut them in small
pieces, which put iuto a saucepan with equal
quautities of stock and champaign, salt and
spices, cover them very close, and set them
on hot ashes for six hours, then serve it.
MEAD. (1) To every gallon of wa*er
put four pounds of honey, boil it an hour.
Then put it ioto a tub with some yeast on a
toast; cover it over. If it fermeuts well af-
ter three or four days, draw it off clear, and
put it iuto a cask, with one lemon sliced to
every gallon; add a bottle of brandy to eve-
ry ten gallons. The rind of Seville oranges
cut very thin, suspended in the barrel, is a
great improvemeut to the flavor. It is best
to wash the cask round with part of the
brandy, before the liquor is put in.
MEAD. (2) One part of honey is dissolv-
ed in three parts of water, and boiled over a
moderate fire tilt it is reduced to two-thirds
of the quautity. It is then skimmed, and
put iuto a barrel, which must be quite full;
it is allowed to subside for three or four
days, and then drawn off for use. To make
it from the combs from which honey has been
drained, they are to bc beaten in warm wa-
ter, and after the liquor has subsided, it is
to be strained. The cottagers in Scotland
make an excelleut beer by adding a little
yeast to the strained liquor, and allowing it
to fermeut, for a few days, in a cask, and
then bottling it.
MEAT CAKES. Take whatever meat,
game, or poultry, you may cha tee to have,
(it is the better for heing under-done); mince
it fine, adding a little tat bacon or ham, or
anchovy; season with a little pepper and
salt; mix the whole well together, and make
it iuto small cakes, about three inches in
length, an inch and a half in width, and half
an inch thick; fry them of a light brown,
and serve them with good gravy; or put it
iuto a mould, a id boil or bake it.
MEAT, TO KEEP HOT. If your
meat is done hefore vou aie ready to serve,
take it up, set the dish over a pun of boiling
water, put a deep cover over it, so as not t i
touch the meat, and then put a cloth over
that. This way will not dry up the gravy.
MILK COFFEE FOR BREAKFAST.
See Coffee.
MILK PUNCH. (1) Beat up two
eggs well, mix them in a quart of milk, su-
gar, nutmeg, and lemon-peel to your taste;
I boil it geutly, stirring it all the time till
thick e lough; take it off the fire a very few
! minutes, then add to it a full quarter of a
i piut of rum. It must be stirred all the time
, the rum is pouring in, or it will lot be good
MILK PUNCH. (2) Eight poundsofr*


M I N
MOO
116
fined sugar are to be dissolved in the strain-
ed juice of three dozen lemons, and, when
quite settled, two gallons of brandy, and two
gallons and a half of cold water, are to be
added, and also the lemon-peel; one gallon
of boiling milk being then poured over the
ingredients, they are to stand closely covered
for twenty-four hours; when, being skimmed
and run through a very thick jelly-bag, it
may be quickly bottled, and will be fit for
immediate use; but it improves by keeping.
MINCED COLLOPS. This is a fa-
vorite Scotch dish; few families are with-
out it: it keeps well, and is always ready to
make an extra dish. Take beef, and chop
and mince it very small; to which add some
salt and pepper. Put this, in its raw state,
into small jars, and pour on the top some clar-
ified butter. When intended for use, put the
clarified butter into a frying-pan, and slice
some onions into the pan, and fry them. Add
a little water to it, and then put in the minced
meat. Stew it well, and in a few minutes
it will be fit to serve up. See Collops.
MINCE MEAT. Two pounds of beef
suet, picked and chopped fine; two pounds
of apple, pared, cored, and minced; three
pounds of currants, washed and picked ; one
pound of raisins, stoned and chopped fine;
one pound of good moist sugar; half a pound
of citron, and one pound of candied lemon
and orange-peel, cut into thin slices; two
pounds of ready-dressed roast beef, free from
skin and gristle, and chopped fine; two nut-
megs, grated; one ounce of salt, one of
ground ginger, half an ounce of coriander
seeds, half an ounce of allspice, half an ounce
of cloves, all ground fine; the juice of six
lemons, and their rinds grated; balf a pint
of brandy, and a pint of sweet wine. Mix
the suet, apples, currants, meat-plums, and
sweetmeats, well together in a large pan,
and strew in the spice by degrees; mix the
sugar, lemon-juice, wine, and brandy, and
pour it to the other ingredients, and stir it
well together; set it by in close-covered pans
in a cold place: when wanted, stir it up from
the bottom, and add half a glass of brandy
to the quantity you require. N. B.—The same
weight of tripe is frequently substituted for
the.meat, and sometimes the yolks of eggs
boiled hard. 06a.—The lean side of a but-
tock, thoroughly roasted, is generally chosen
'tx mince meat.
witu
vWtleVUTEN FLEISH. Cut from ofT a
anchol °al some slices as thin as the blade
salt, andi and about four inches long; sea-
boiled eg^ith pepper and salt, lay them in-
it all togetiish, pour over them nearly half
an egg, and'te wine, let it stand for three
Put the lobste' the bottom of a stewpan with
it with the for
butter, dredge each slice of the veal on both
sides with flour; add a little more wine,
and as much good white stock as will cover
it, and the juice of a lemon. Cover the pan
closely, and let it simmer five minutes, and
serve it instantly, otherwise it will become
hard.
MOCK ARRACK. Dissolve two scru-
ples of flowers of benjamin in a quart of
good rum, and it will immediatelv impart
to it the inviting fragrance of "VauxhaU
nectar."
MOCK BRAWN. See Brawn.
MOCK CAPER SAUCE. See Sauce
Caper.
MOCK GOOSE, or LEG OF PORK
roasted wtthout the Sktn. Parboil
it; take off the skin, and then put it down
to roast; baste it with butter, and make a
savory powder of finely minced, or dried
and powdered sage, ground black pepper,
sak, and some bread-crumbs, rubbed togeth-
er through a colander; you may add to this
a little very finely minced onion: sprinkle it
with this when it is almost roasted. Put
half a pint of made gravy into the dish, and
goose stuffing under the knuckle skin; or
garnish the dish with balls of it fried or
Boiled.
MOCK ICE. Of preserved strawber-
ries, raspberries, and red currant jel'y, a
table-spoonful each; rub it through a steve,
with as much cream as will fill a shape;
dissolve three-quarters of an ounce of isin-
glass in half a pint of water; when almost
cold, mix it well with the cream, put it into
a shape, set it'in a cool place, and turn it
out the following day.
MOCK TURTLE. Ses Soup Calf's
Head.
MOORFOWL, TO STEW. Truss
them, keeping on their heads, but draw the
legs within the body; mix well some salt
and pepper with flour and a piece of butter,
and put a small bit into each bird; fry them
all over of a nice brown in butter. Brown
some butter and flour, and add to it some good
gravy, seasoned with pepper, salt, mace, and
two cloves pounded; boil up the sauce, put
in the moorfowl, and let them stew very
slowly till tender. A little before taking
them off the fire, add a table-spoonful of
mushroom ketchup. If the birds are old,
stew them for two hours; if young ones,
half that time. Cold roasted moorfowl are
dressed exactly in the same way only cut
into joints, and stewed very gently nearly as


MUS * 117 MUS
;tmg. Half an hour before serving, a small I
wea-cupful of Port wine should be added.
MUFFINS. (1) Take one pint of milk
quite warm, and a quarter of a pint of thick
small-beer yeast; strain them into a pan, and
add sufficient flour to make it like a batter;
cover it over, and let it stand in a warm
place until it has risen; then add a quarter
of a pint of warm milk, and one ounce of
butter rubbed in some flour quite fine; mix
them well together : then add sufficient flour
to make it into dough, cover it over, and
let it stand half an hour; then work it up
again, and break it into small pieces: roil
them up quite round, and cover them over
for a quarter of an hour; then bake them.
MUFFINS. (2) Mix two pounds of
lour with a couple of eggs, two ounces of
,iutter melted in a pint of'milk, and four or
five spoonfuls of yeast; beat it thoroughly,
and set it to rise two or three hours. Bake
it on a hot hearth in flat cakes, and turn
them, when done, on one side.
MUFFINS. (3) Take two quarts of
warm water, two spoonfuls of yeast, three,
pounds of flour; beat it well for half an
hour, and let it stand an hour or two; bake
them on an iron baking-stove (rub it well
over with mutton-suet as often as they are
laid on); as soon as they begin to color,
turnthem; they will he suffictently baked
when colored on both sides.
MULLAGATAWNV. Boil slowly in
two quarts of water one pound of split peas,
half an ounce of butter, two onions sliced, a
little salt, cayenue, and two blades of mace.
When the peas are tender, put in a large
fowl, cut in joints and skinued, two quarts
of boiling water, or stock, if the soup lie re-
quired very rich; twenty minutes before
serving, add a large table spoonH of curry-
powder, and the same of ground rtce.
cCjp' For Mullagalawny Soup, see
Soups.
MUU ED WINE. Put* into a pint of
Port wine two or three cloves and a bit of
cinuamon; boil it for a few moments; take
out the spice, sweeten it with loaf sugar,
and grate in a little nutmeg. Serve with a
slice of toasted bread, the crust pared off,
and cut into oblong pieces. The Port wine
is sometimes boiled with a third of its quan-
tity of water.
MUSHROOMS, TO CHOOSE. The
mushrooms proper to be used in cookery
grow in the open (iasturc land, for those that
grow near or under trees, are poisonous.
The eatable mushrooms first appear very
small, and of a round form, on a little stalk.
They grow very rapidly, and the upper part
and stalk are white. As they increase in
size, the under part gradually opens, and
shows a fringed fur of a very fine salmon co-
lor, which continues more or k-ss till the
mushroom has gained some size, and then
turns to a dark brown. These marks should
be attended to, and likewise whether the
skin can be easily parted from the edge
and middle, and whether they have a pleas-
ant smell. Those which are poisonous have
a yellow skin, and the under part has not the
clear flesh color of the real mushroom; lie-
sides which, they Smell rank and disagreea-
ble, and the fur is white or yellow.
MUSHROOM KETCHUP. If you
love good ketchup, gentle reader, make it
yourself, after the following directions, and
you will have a delicious relish for made-
dishes, ragouts, soups, sauces, or hashes.
Mushroom gravy approaches the nature
and flavor of meat gravy, more than any vtio-*"
table juice, and is the superlative sv'^ery c,,t
for it: in meagre soups and ex'7 thyme and
vies, the chemistry of the k:n it clean, and
contrived to agreeably aw; tne P^ce you in-
and encourage the appetita, and Ii't tne other
A couple of quarts then have ready tur-
madc according to me leeks, celery, half a
will save you some -ley, all cut small, and
besides a vast dea' wash them, strain the li-
will furnish, in a-i skim it free from the fat,
as can be madengredients with the piece of
I believe tlu-d for the tureen, adding a lit-
extracting ai,;V- Season with salt, simmer
mushrooms, fill done, and serve with toasted
their flavor folate.
Look out 1
ning of Septeti CHOPS. Cut tlte chops
Take care tP best end of a neck of mutton,
fresh gathered, dip them into a beaten egg,
preferred: put a lipm grated bread, seasoned
of a deep earthen1i a"d some finely minced
with salt; then anoffun little butter, and lay
and some more salt on f a sieve to drain he-
ternately, salt and musl about half a pint of
main two or three boun£ful of ketchup, and
salt will have penetrated thVavy into the dish,
rendered them easy to breai'nish with fried
them in a mortar, or mash tin
your hands, and let them remain
of days, not longer, stirring i'-£D. Cut a
mashing them well each d:i-oops, season them
into a stone jar, and to Jtter a dish, lay in
ounce an,l a half',f who them a batter made
half an ounce of allspiceeggs beaten up, four
close, and set it in a stowul a little salt. An
terand keep it boiling fot . , , --
Take out the jar, and pour the juice clear


MUS
MUT
1 IS
from the settlings through a hai r sieve (without
squeezing the mushrooms) into a clean stew-
pan; let it boil very gently for half un hour:
those who are for superlative ketchup, w ill
continue the botling till the mushroom-juice
is reduced to half the quantity; it may then
be railed double cat-sup or dog-sup.
There are several advantages attending
this concentration; it will keep much better,
and only half the quantity be required; so
you can flavor sauce, fcc. without thinuing
tt: neither is this an extravagant way of
making it, fur merely the aqueous part is
evaporated; skim it well, and pour it into a
clean dry jar, or jug; cover it close, and let
it stand "in a cool place till next day; then
pour it off as gently as possible (so as not to
disturb the settlings at the bottom of the
jug,) through a tamis, or thick flannel bag,
till it is perfectly clear; add a table-spoon-
ful of good brandy to each pint of ketchup,
and let it stand as before; a fresh sediment
w ill lie delwisited, from which the ketchup is
to lie quietly poured off, and bottled in pints
or half pints (which have lieen washed with
.ndy or spirit): it is best to keep it in
suet, p. unities as are soon used,
of apple, pbt'-ial care that it is closely cork-
pounds of curr^down, or dipped in bottle ce-
l«iund of raisins.
one pound of good ^l, dry place, it may be
ofcitron,andonepoutime; but if it be badly
and orange-peel, cut t damp place, it will
pounds of ready-dressea .
skin and gristle, and chopi to time, by plae-
megs, grated; one ounce, the neck of the
ground ginger, half an outhpears about it,
seeds, half an ounce of allspictpeppercorns.
of cloves, all ground fine; tin
lemons, and their rinds grated ^KLE. Cut
of brandy, and a pint of sweet m cold wa-
the suet, apples, currants, meatas; rub them
sweetmeats, well together ir.row them into
and strew in the spice by defectly clean, put
sugar, lemon-juice, wine, 'fresh cold water,
pour it to the other ingredfen minutes; strain
well together; set it by in mto the folds of a
in a cold place: when ;rt of vinegar, a quarter
the bottom, and add^r, the same of allspice,
to the quantity you re.ades of mace, and a tea-
weight of tripe is put the mushrooms into a
the.meat, and soflte vinegar is cold, pour it,
boiled hard. CS, over them.
tock, thoroug'
V mince mftOOMS TO STEW. For a
witti i' h, take a pint of white stock,
little \UTEN t Jt, pepper, and a little lemon
soued iJal some bIt w}ln a bit of butter rolled
fresh be, and aboUand peel the mushrooms,
ready fornth peppth a very little salt, boil
each fish, '«jb, pot'four mlnutes, put them into
te w\ is hot, and stew them for
MACKE1- the
Split them dc
MUSTARD. Mix (by degrees, h\ rub-
bing together in a mortar) the liest flour of
mustard, with vinegar, white wine, or cold
water, in \ hich scraped horseradish has
been boiled; rub it well together for at least
ten minutes, till it is perfectly smooth; it
will keep in a stone jar closely stopped, fora
fortnight: only put as much into the mustard-
pot as will be used in a day or two. 06s.—
Mustard is the best of all the stimulants that
are employed to give energy to the digestive
organs. Some opulent epicures mix tt with
Sherry or Madeira wine, or distilled or fla-
vored vinegar, instead of horseradish water.
The French flavor their mustard with Cham-
paigne and other wines, or with vinegar fla-
vored with capers, anchovies, tarragon, elder,
basil, burnet, garlic, eschalot, or celery,
warming it with cayenue, or the various
spices; sweet, savory, fine herbs, truffles,
ketchup, &c. &c., and seem to consider
mustard merely as a vehicle of flavors.
MUSTARD IN A JitfUTE. Mix
very gradually, .and rub together in a mortar,
an ounce of flour of mustard, with three ta-
ble-spoonfuls of milk (cream is better), half
'a tea-spoonful of salt, and the same of sugar;
rub them well together till quite smooth.
Obs.—Mustard made in this m tnuer is not
at all bitter, and is therefore instantly ready
for the table.
MUTTON. (1) llte pipe that runs along
the bone of the inside of a chine of mutton
ought to be taken away; and if it is to be
kept any length of time, the part close round
the tail should be rubbed with salt, previously
cutting out the kernel.
It is best for the butcher to take out-the
kernel in the fat on the thick part of the leg,
as that is the part most likely to become
tainted. The chine and rib-bones should be
wiped every day; and the bloody part of the
neck be cut oft', in order to preserve it. The
brisket changes first in the breast; therefore,
if it is to be kept, it is best, should the
weather be hot, to rub it with a little salt.
When intended for roasting, it should hang
as long as it jvill keep, the hind quarter
particularly; but not so long^ts to become
tainted.
Mutton for boiling ought not to hang
long, as it will prevent its looking of a good
color.
The greatest care should be taken to pre-
serve, by paper, the fat of what is roasted.
MUTTON. (2) As beef requires a large,
sound fire, mutton must have a brisk and
sharp one. If you wish to have mutton
tender, it should be hung almost as long as
it will keep; and then good eight-tooth, i. e.


MU7
MUT
120
Cut a neck of mutton into chops; beat them
flat with a rolling-pin. Bruise the yolk of
a hard-boiled egg, and mix with it chopped
sweel herta, grated bread, nuimeg, stlt, and
pepper. Cover the steaks with it, and put
each into a piece of well-buttered paper;
broil them over a clear fire, turning them of-
ten. Serve them in the paper, or with a
browned gravy.
MUTTON CUTLETS. Cut mto cut-
lets a pound and a half of the thick part of
a leg of mutton, and beat them; mix with
grated bread crumbs, some pepper, salt, and
finely chopped parsley, lemon thyme, and
sweet marjoram. Rub the cutlets with melt-
ed butter, and cover them thickly with the
prepared bread; fry them for ten minutes in
butter, then put them into a saucepan with
some good gravy thickened with flour and
butter, and simmer them for ten or fifteen
minute^.
MUTTON FILLET, STEWED. Put
u fillet of mutton or a piece of beef, weigh-
ing about seven pounds, into a stewpan, with
a carrot, a turnip, an onion stuck with two
or three cloves, and a pint of water. Put
round the edge of the stewpan, a rim of
coarse paste, that the cover may be kept
very close, and let it stew gently, three hours
and a half; take out the meat, skim off the
fat, strain and thicken the gravy, have ready
some boiled carrots and turnips cut to fancy,
add them to the gravy, make all hot, and
serve with a garnish of sliced gherkins.
MUTTON CUTLETS Breaded and
Brotled. Trim and season your cutlets
with pepper and salt, put them into some
melted butter, and when they, have imbibed
a sufficient quantity of it, take them out, and
cover them completely with bread crumbs;
give the cutlets a good shape, and broil them
over a clear fire; take care not to do the cut-
lets too much, to burn the bread.
MUTTON GRAVY FOR VENISON
or Hark. The best gravy for venison is
that made with the trimmings of the joint:
if this is all used, and you have no undressed
ventson, cut a scrag of mutton in pieces;
broil it a little brown; then put it into a
clean stewpan, with a quart of boiling wa-
ter; cover it close, and let it simmer gently
for an hour: now uncover the stewpan, and
let it reduce to three-quarters of a pint; pour
it through a hair-sieve; take the fat off, and
send it up in a boat. It is only to 	e sea-
soned with a little salt, that it may not over-
power the natural flavor of the meat.
MUTTON, TO HASH. Cut the meat
into thin slices, trim off all the sinews, skin,
gristle, &c.; put in nothing but what is to
be eaten, lay them on a plate, ready; pre-
pare your sauce to warm it in, put in the
meat, and let it simmer gently till it is thor-
oughly warm: do not let it boil, as lhat wiL
make the meat tough and hard, and it will
be a harsh, instead of a hash. Select for
your hash those parts of the joint that are
least done. Hashing is a mode of cookery
by no means suited to delicate stomachs:
unless the meat, be considerably under-done
the fust time, a second dressing must spoil
it, for what is done enough the first time,
must be dune too much the second.
MUTTON HAM, TO CURE. Cut a
hind quarter of good mutton into the shape of
a ham, pound one ounce of saltpetre, with
one pound of coarse salt and a quarter of a
pound of brown sugar, rub the ham well with
this mixture, taking care to stuff the hole of
the shank well with salt and sugar, and let
it lie a fortnight, rubbing it well with the
pickle every two or three days; then take
it out and press it with a weight lor one
day; smoke it with saw-dust for ten or fif-
teen days, or hang it to dry in the kitchen.
If the ham is to be boiled soon after it has
been smoked, soak it one hour, and if it has
been smoked any length of time it will re-
quire to Iie soaked several hours. Put it on
in cold water, and boil it gently two hours.
It is eaten cold at breakfast, luncheon, or
supper. A mutton ham is sometimes cured
with the above quantity of salt and sugar,
with the addition of half an ounce of pepper,
a quarter of an ounce of cloves, and one nut-
meg.
MUTTON HAUNCH, LIKE VENI-
SON. Take a fat haunch of large fine
mutton, let it hang a week, then pound
one ounce of black, and one ounce of Jamai-
ca pepper, and rub them over the mutton,
pour a bottle of Port wine over it, and let it
remain in this five days, basting it frequent-
ly every day with the liquor, take it out and
hang it up four or five days more, or as long
as the weather favors its keeping; wipe it
three or four times a day with a clean cloth.
While it is roasting baste it w ith the liquor
it was steeped in, adding a little more Port
wine; a quarter of an hour before taking it
from the fire, baste it wetl with butter, and
dredge flour over it to froth it up. Serve it
with sauces as for venison.
MUTTON HAUNCH. It should
be kept as long as you can possibly keep it
sweet by the different modes; and if neces-
sary, wash it with warm milk and water,
or vinegar, and when going to be dressed, be
careful to wash it well, to prevent the out-
side from having a bad flavor from keeping;


MUT
MUT
121
before you put the haunch to the fire, fold it
m a paste of coarse flour, or strong paper;
then set it a good distance from the fire, and
allow proportionable time for the paste; do
not take it off, till about thirty-five or forty
minutes before serving the mutton, and then
baste continually; bring the haunch nearer
before taking off the paste, and froth it up
in the same manuer as venison. For gravy,
take a pound and a half of loin of mutton,
and simmer it in a pint of water till reduced
to half, use no seasoning but salt: brown it
with a little burnt sugar, and serve it up in
the dish; but there should be a good deal of
gravy in the meat, for though long at the fire,
the covering and distance will prevent its
roasting out. Serve with currant-jelly sauce.
MUTTON LEG. (1) If your leg
of mutton is roasted, serve with onion or
currant-jelly sauce; if it is boiled, serve with
caper-sauce and vegetables. In roasting or
boiling, a quarter of an hour is usually allow-
ed for each pound of meat.
MUTTON LEG. (2) Cut off the shank
bone, and trim the knuckle, put it into luke-
warm water for ten minutes, wash it clean,
cover it with cold water, and let it simmer
very gently, and skim it carefully. A leg
of nine pounds will take two and a half or
three hours, if you like it thoroughly done,
especially in very cold weather.
The tit-bits with an epicure are the
"knuckle," the kernel, called the "pope's
eye" and the " gentleman's" or " cramp
bone."
When mutton is very large, you may di-
vide it, and roast the fillet, i. e. the large
end, and boil the knuckle end; you may
also cut some fine cutlets off the thick end
of the leg, and so have two or three good
hot dinners.
The liquor the mutton is boiled tn, you
may convert into good soup in five minutes,
and Scotch barley broth. Thus managed, a
leg of mutton is a most economical joint.
MUTTON LEG STUFFED. Make
a stuffing with a little beef-suet chopped,
some parsley, thyme, marjoram, a little
grated lemon, nutmeg grated, pepper, salt,
and a few bread crumbs, mix all together
with the yolk of an egg, put this under the
skin in the thickest part of a leg of mutton
under the flap; then roast it, and serve it to
table with some good gravy in the dish.
MUTTON LEG STUFFED wtth
Oysters. Make a forcemeat of beef-suet,
chopped small, the yolks of hard boiled eggs,
with three anchovies, a little onion, thyme,
eavory, and some oysters, a dozen or fourteen,
I all cut fine, some salt, pepper, grated nut-
meg, and crumbs of bread, mixed up with
j raw eggs; put this forcemeat under the skin
| in the thickest part of the leg of mutton, un-
j der the flap, and at the knuckle. For sauce,
some oyster-liquor, a little red wine, an an-
chovy, and some more oysters stewed, and
served under the mutton.
MUTTON LOIN. Roast it; some
people think it eats much better if cut length-
ways like a saddle. It may also be used
for steaks, pies, or broth, only taking care
to cut off as much fat as possible.
MUTTON LOIN, STEWED. Bone
and skin the loin; stew it in a pint of
water, turning it frequently; when the li-
quor is half wasted, take out the loin and
strain it, and when cold take off the fat;
make a rich highly-seasoned gravy of the
bones; strain and mix it with the ltquor the
loin was stewed in; add a tea-cupful of
Port wine, and some small mushrooms;
thicken the sauce with butter rolled in flour;
put in the mutton, and heat it thoroughly;
garnish with pickles.
MUTTON NECK.. (1) This joint is
particularly useful, as so many dishes may
be made of it. The bone ought to be cut
short.
The best end of the neck may be boiled,
and served with turnips; or if you think
proper, it may be roasted, or dressed in
steaks, or made into pies, or used for harrico.
Yon may stew the scrags in broth; or in
a little water, with small onions, some pep-
percorns, and a small quantity of rice, all
served together.
When you wish that a neck which is to
be boiled should look particularly well, saw
'down the chine bone, strip the ribs half
way down, and chop off the ends of the
bones, about four inches.
To make the fat look particularly white,
the skin should not be taken off till it is
boiled.
The fat belonging to the neck or loin of
mutton, if chopped very fine, makes a most
excellent suet-pudding, or crust for a meal
me.
MUTTON NECK. (2) Put four or
five pounds of the best end of a neck (that
has been kept a few days) into as much cold
soft water as will cover it, and about two
inches over; let it simmer very slowly for
two hours: it will look most delicate if you
do not take off the skin till it has been boil-
ed.
MUTTON PASTY, to eat as rtck


MUT' 122 MOT
AS Vrntsok. Take a fat loin of mutton,
and let it hang for several days, then bone if-
Beat it well with a rolling pin; then rob
en pounds of meat with a quarter of a pound
of sugar, and pour over it one glass of Port,
and one glass of vinegar. Let it lie for five
days and five nights; after which, wash and
wtpe thfl meat very dry, and season it highly
with Jamaica peplier, nutmeg, and salt.
Lay it in your dish, and to ten pounds put
one pound of butter, spreading it over the
meat. Put a crust round the edge of the
dish, and cover with a thick crust, otherwise
it will be over-done I«fore the meat is soak-
ed; it must be baked in a slow oven.
Put the bones in a pan in the oven, with
just sufficient water to cover diem, and one
giass of Port, a small quantity of pepper and
s:dt; by this means you w ill have a little rich
g.avy to add to the pasty when drawn.
Sugar gives a greater shortness to meat,
and a better flavor than salt, too great a
quantity of which hardens the meat. Sugar
is quite as great a preservative.
MUTTON POLPETTES. Take the
lean of any joint of cold roasted mutton, pare
off the skin, and mince the meat with a little
grated bacon and calf's udder; season with
salt, pepper, nutmeg, a few mushrooms and
parsley, shred small; unite them together
w ith the yolks of three eggs, and make twelve
or fifteen balls of it, dip them in beaten egg,
and bread them tw ice. Flatten these balls
a little, and fry them in clarified butter;
when done, drain and place them on the
dish. Serve them with tomato sauce or
glaze.
MUTTON, ROLLED. Bone a shoulder
of mutton carefully, so as not to injure the
skin, cut all the meat from the skin, mince
it small, and season it highly with pepper,
nutmeg, and a clove, some parsley, lemon
thyme, sweet marjoram chopped, and a
pounded onion, all well mixed, together with
a well-beaten yolk of an egg; roll it up very
tightly in the skin, tie it round, and bake it
in an oven two or three hours, according to
the size of the mutton. Make a gravy of the
bones and parings, season with an onion,
pepper and salt, strain and thicken it with
flour and butter; add vinegar, mushroom
ketchup, soy, and iemon pickle, a table-
spoonful of each, and a tea-cupful of Port
wine; garnish with forcemeat balls, made
of grated bread, and part of the mince.
MUTTON, COLD shoulder brotl-
ed. A cold shoulder of roast mutton having
only a little meat upon the blade bone, may
be scored, sprinkled with pcpper and salt,
then broiled and served with caper sauce
poured over it, or melted butter, in which
should be mixed of mushroom ketchup, lemon
pickle, and Harvey sauce, a table-spoonfu*
each.
MUTTON SHOULDER, BAKED.
Lard a shoulder of mutton with streaked
bacon, put it into an earthen stewpan pro-
portioned to the nize of the joint of meat,
with two or three sliced onions, a parsnip
and carrot sliced, one clove of garlic, two
cloves, half a bay-leaf and some basil; add
about a quarter of a pint of water or stock
(stock is the best), some salt and pepper;
put the meat into the sauce, and set it in an
oven. When the meat is done, strain the
sauce through a sieve, and skim it, sq ,cezing
the vegetables so as to make a thickening for
your sauce: serve the sauce w ith the meat.
MUTTON SHOULDER, STEWED.
(1) Bone a shoulder of mutton with a
sharp knife, and ftll the space with the fol-
lowing stuffing:—grated bread, minced suet,
parsley, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; bind
with the yolks of two eggs well beaten.
Sew or fasten, it with small skewers; brown
it in a frying-pan with a bit of butter. Break
the bone, put it into a saucepan, with some
water, an onion, lieplier, salt, and a bunch
of parsley; let it stew till the strength be
extracted; strain, and thicken it with butter
rolled in flour; put it, with the mutton, and
a glass of Port w ine, into the saucepan; cover
ii closely, and let it stew gently for two
hours. Before serving, add two table-spoon-
fuls of mushroom ketchup. Garnish with
pickles.
MUTTON SHOULDER, STEW-
ED. (2) Bone and flatten a shoulder
of mutton, sprinkle over it pepper and
salt, roll it up tightly, bind it w ith tape, and
put it into a stew pan that w ill just hold it,
pour over it a well-seasoned gravy made with
tiie bones, cover the pan closely, and let it
stew till tender; before serving, take off tle
tape, thicken the gravy, and garnish with
cut pickles.
MUTTON STEAKS, BROILED. Cut
some mutton steaks from the loin, about
half an inch thick, take off the skin, and part
of the fat. As soon as the gridiron is hot,
rub it with a little suet, lay on the steaks
(place the gridiron over the fire aslant), turn
the steaks frequently; when they are done,
put them into a hot dish, rub them with
a little butter; slice a shallot very thin into
a spoonful of water, and pour it on them;
add a little ketchup; garnish with scraped
horse-radish, and pickles, and send diem up
hot to table.


NOU
123' OAT
N.
NAPLES CURP. Put into a quart of
new milk a stick of cinuamon, boil it a few
minutes, take out the cinuamon, and stir in
eight well-beaten eggs, and a table-spoonful
of white wine; when it boils again, strain
it through a sieve; beat the curd in a basin,
together with about half an ounce of butter,
two table-spoonfuls of orange-flower water,
and pounded sugar sufficient to sweeten it.
Put it into a mould for two hours before it
is sent to table. White wine, sugar, and
cream, may be mixed together, and poured
round the curd; or it may be served in a
sauce tureen.
NASTURTIUMS PICKLED. As soon
as the blossoms are off, gather the little
knobs; put them into cold water with some
salt; shift them once a day for three suc-
cessive days; make a cold pickle of white
wine vinegar, a little white wme, shallot,
pepper, cloves, mace, nutmeg, cut in quar-
ters, and horse-radish; and put your nastur-
tinm buds into this pickle.
NEAT'S TONGUE Fresh, tn a
Platn Way. Lard a tongue with tolera-
ble-sized lardons, and boil it in broth, or in
water, with a few onions and roots; when
it is done, peel it, and serve it with broth,
sprinkling it over with a little pepper and
salt; it is also used without larding, and
being boiled fresh in this manuer, is consid-
ered very good for mince-pie meat.
NEAT'S TONGUE, Roasted, a la
Francatse. Boil a neat's tongue, and
blanch it; set it by till it is cold, then cut a
hole in the under part, and take out the
meat, mince it with two or three hard eggs,
an apple, beef-suet, and bacon; season wtth
salt, beaten ginger, and sweet herbs, shred
very fine; stuff the tongue with this force-
meat; then cover the end with a veal caul,
lard it with bacon, and roast it; serve with
a sauce made of gravy, butter, and the juice
of oranges, garmsh the dish with sliced lem-
on-peel and barberries.
NOUGAT. Blanch and wash a pound
of sweet almonds, and having drained them
well, cut each into five slips, which place in
a gentle oven to dry; let them be all equally
colored of a clear yellow; in the meantime,
put three-quarters of a pound of fine sugar
into a preserving pan, set it on a stove, stir-
ring with a wooden spoon until completely
dissolved; then take the almonds out of the
oven, and whilst hot throw them into the li-
quid sugar; mix them together well. Have
ready a mould well oiled, of any shape you
think proper, in the interior of which place
the slips of almonds, by means of lemon-juice,
when the whole is covered, remove the mould
carefully, and serve the Nougat.
NOYAU. (1) Peaches and nectarines,
in equal quantities, are to be bruised, the
stones broken, and the kernels blanched and
bruised; they are then to be put into a jar
in layers, one of fruit, one of kernels, and
one of pounded loaf sugar, and so on until
the jar is full; as much white brandy is
then to be added as the jar will hold; and
when it has stood for five or six months, it
is to be filtered and bottled for use.
NOYAU. (2) One pound of bitter al-
monds, blanched, is to be steeped three
months in four quarts of large-still proof
whisky, or pale brandy, four pounds of loaf
sugar are then to be clarified and added to
the strained or filtered spirits, together with
half a pint of pure honey. It is sometimes
colored with a little cochineal; and may
also be made, allowing three parts of sweet,
and one of bitter almonds.
NOYAU. (3) The rinds of three large
lemons, half a pound of pounded loaf sugar,
one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and
pounded, are to be mixed into i quart of the
best Hollands gin, three table-spoonfuls of
boiling milk being added. It is to be put
into a bottle or jar, and shaken every day
for three weeks, and then filtered through
chamois leather or blotting paper, when it
will be fit for use.
O.
OAT CAKES—are made in the same
manuer as muffins, using sifted oatmeal in-
stead of flour, and three gallons of water in-
stead of two: pull the dough into pieces,
roll and finish the cakes as directed for muf-
fins. When wanted, pull the edges apart,
toast them nicely on both sides, and then
open them completely; lay in small pieces
of butter, until you have as much as you may
want; close them again, set them before
the fire, and cut each in halves or quarters.
OATMEAL PORRIDGE. Boil some
water in a saucepan with a little salt, and
stir oatmeal into it withathevil; when of
a proper thickness, let it boil for four or
five minutes, stirring it all the time; then
pour it into a dish, and serve with it cream
or milk. It is sometimes eaten with porter
and sugar, or ale and sugar. If made with
milk instead of water, less meal is requisite,
'and it is then eaten with cold milk.


OME
OME
124
OLTVE ROYALS. Boil one pound of
potatoes, and when nearly cold rob them
perfectly smooth with four ounces of flour
and one ounce of butter, and knead it to-
gether till it become a paste; roll it out
about a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into
rounds, and lay upon one side any sort of
cold roasted meat cut into thin small bits,
and seasoned with pepper and salt; put a
very small bit of butter over it, wet the
edges, and close the paste in the form of a
half circle. Fry them in boiling fresh drip-
ping of a light hrown color; lay them be-
fore the fire, on the back of a sieve, to drain.
Serve them with or without gravy in the
dish. For a change, mince the meat, and
season it as before directed. Theapotatoes
should be very mealy.
OLIVES. There are three sorts, the
Italian, Spanish, and French; they 'may
be bad of various sizes and flavors, some
prefer one sort, and some another.
The fine salad oil is made from this fruit,
for which purpose they are gathered ripe;
for pickling they are gathered when only
half ripe, at the latter end of June; they are
put into fresh water to soak for a couple of
days; after this they are thrown into lime-
water, in which some pearl-ashes have been
dissolved; in this liquor they lie for six and
thirty hours; they are then put into water
which has had bay-salt dissolved in it; this
is the last preparation, and they are sent
over to us in this liquor; they are naturally,
as they grow on the tree, extremely bitter,
and therefore all these preparations are nec-
essary to bring them to their fine flavor. To
some olives they add a small quantity of es-
sence of spices, which is an oil drawn from
cloves, nutmeg, cinuamon, coriander, and
sweet fennel-seed distilled togedter for that
purpose; twelve drops are sufficient for a
bushel of olives; some prefer them flavored
with this essence.
OMELETS ANd VARIOUS WAYS
of dresstng Eggs. There is no dish
which may be considered as coming under
the denommation of a made dish of the sec-
ond order, which is so generally eaten, if
good, as an omelet; and no one is so often
badly dressed: it is a very faithful assistant
in the construction of a dinuer.
When you are taken by surprise, and wish
to make an appearance beyond what is pro-
vided for the every-day dinuer, a little port-
able soup melted down, and some zest and a
few vegetables, will make a good broth; a
pot of stewed veal warmed up; an omelet;
and some apple or lemon fritters, can all be
got ready at ten minutes notice, and wtth
the original foundation of a leg of mutton, or
a piece of beef, will make up a very good
dinuer when company unexpectedly arrives,
in the country.
The great merit of an omelet is, that it
should not be greasy, burnt, nor too much
done: if too much of the white of the eggs is
left in, no art can prevent its being hard, if
it is done: to dress the omelet, the fire
should not be too hot, as it is an object to
have the whole substance Itea ted, without
much browning the outside.
One of the great errors in cooking an om-
elet is, that it is too thin; consequendy, in-
stead of feeling full and moist in the mouth*
the substance presented is little better than
a piece of fried leather: to get the omelet
thick is one of the great objects. With re-
spect to the flavors to be introduced, these
are infinite; that which is most common,
however, is the best, viz. finely chopped
parsley, and chives or onions, or eschalots:
however, one made of a mixture of tarragon,
chervil, and parsley, is a very delicate va-
riety, omitting or adding the onion or chives.
Of the meat flavors, the veal kidney is the
most delicate, and is the most admtred by
the French: this should be cut in dice, and
should be dressed (boiled) before it is added;
in the same manuer, ham and anchovies,
shred small, or tongue, will make a very
delicately flavored dish.
The objection to an omelet is, that it is
too rich, which makes it advisable to eat
but a small quantity.' An addition of some
finely mashed potatoes, about two table-
spoonfuls, to an omelet of six eggs, will
much lighten it.
Omelets are often served with rich gra-
vy; but, as a general principle, no substance
which has been fried should be served in gra-
vy, but accompanied by it, or what ought to
eat dry and crisp, becomes soddened and
flat.
In the compounding the gravy, great care
should be taken that the flavor does not over-
come that of the omelet, a thing too little
attended to: a-fine gravy, with a flavoring
of sweet herbs and onions, we think the best;
some add a few drops of tarragon vinegar;
but this is to be done only with great care:
gravies to omelets are in general thicken-
ed: this should never be done with flour;
potato starch, or arrow-root, is the best.
Omelets should be fried in a small fry-
ing-pan made for that purpose, with a small
quantity of butter. The omelet's great
merit is to he thick, so as not to taste of the
outside; therefore use only half the number
of whites that you do yolks of eggs: every
care must be taken in frying, even at the
risk of not having it quite set in the middle:
an omelet, which has so much vogue
abroad, is here, in general, a thin doubled-
up piece of leather, and harder than soft
leather sometimes. The fact is, that as much


O ME
ON I
125
care must be bestowed on the frying, as
should be taken in poaching an egg. A
salamander is necessary to those who will
have the top brown; but the kitchen shovel
may be substituted for it.
The following receipt is the basis of all
omelets, of which you may make an end-
less variety, by taking, instead of the pars-
ley and eschalot, a portion of sweet herbs,
or any of the articles used for making force-
meats, or any of the forcemeats.
Omelets are called by the name of what
is added to flavor them: a ham or tongue
omelet; an anchovy, or veal kidney ome-
let, &c.: these are prepared exactly in the
same way as in the first receipt, leaving out
the parsley and eschalot, and mincing the
ham or kidney very fine, fee, and adding
that in the place of them, and then pour over
them all sorts of thickened gravies, sauces,
&c. ;,
OMELET. (1) Five or six eggs will
make a good-sized omelet; break them
into a basin, and beat them well with a fork;
and add a salt-spoonful of salt; have ready
chopped two drachms of onion, or three
drachms of parsley, a good clove of eschalot
minced very fine; beat it well up with the
eggs; then take four ounces of fresh butter,
and break half of it into large bits, and put
it into the omelet, and the other half into
a very clean frying-pan; when it is melted,
pour in the omelet, and stir it with a spoon
till it begins to set, then turn it up all round
the edges, and when it is of a nice brown it
is done: the safest way to take it out is to
put a plate on the omelet, and turn the pan
upside-down: serve it on a hot dish; it
should never be done till just wanted. If
ruaigre, grated cheese, shrimps, or oysters.
If oysters, boil them four minutes, and take
away the beard and gristly part; they may
either be put in whole, or cut in bits.
OMELET. (2) Beard and parboil twelve
or sixteen oysters, seasoning them with a few
peppercorns, strain and chop them; beat
well six eggs; parboil and mince a little
parsley; mix all together, and season with a
little nutmeg, salt, and a table-spoonful of
mushroom ketchup; fry it lightly in three
ounces of butter, and hold it for a minute or
two before the fire.
OMELET. (3) Beat well and strain six
eggs; add them to three ounces of butter
made hot ; mix in some grated ham, pepper,
salt, and nutmeg, some chopped chives and
parsley. Fry it of a light brown color.
OMELET. (4) Take as many eggs as
you think proper (according to the size of
your omelet) break them into a basin with
some salt and chopped parsley; then beat
them well, and season them according to
taste, then have ready some onion chopped
small; put some butter into a frying-pan, and
when it is hot (but not to burn) put in yow
chopped onion, giving them two or three
turns; then add your eggs to it, and fry the
whole of a nice brown, you must only fry
one side. When done, turn it into a dish,
the fried side uppermost, and serve.
OMELET FRITTERS. Make two or
three thin omelets, adding a little sweet ba-
sil to the usual ingredients; cut them into
small pieces and roll them into the form of
olives; when cold, dip them into batter, or
enclose them in puff paste; fry, and serve
them with fried parsley.
OMELET WITH KIDNEY OF
VEAL. To eight well-beaten eggs, add a
little salt, and part of a cold roasted kidney
of veal, finely minced; season with pepper,
and a little more salt ; melt in a frving-pan
one ounce and a half of butter, and pour in
the omelet; fry it gently, and keep the mid-
dle part moist; when done, roll it equally
upon a knife, and serve it very hot.
OMELET AU NATUREL. Break
eight or ten eggs into a pan, add pepper,
salt, and a spoonful of cold water, beat them
up with a whisk; in the meantime put some
fresh butter into a frying-pan, when it is quite
melted and nearly boiling, put in the eg^s,
&c. with a skimmer; as it is frying, tane
up the edges, that they may be properly
done; when cooked, double tt; serve very
hot.
ONIONS. The small round silver button
onions, about as big as a nutmeg, make a
very nice pickle. Take off their top coats,
have ready a stewpan, three parts filled with
boiling water, into which put as many on-
ions as will cover the top: as soon as they
look clear, immediately take them up with
a spoon full of holes, and lay them on a cloth
three times folded, and cover them with
another till you have ready as many as you
wish: when they are quite dry, put them into
jars, and cover them with hot pickle, made
by infusing an ounce of horseradish, same of
allspice, and same of black pepper, and same
of salt, in a quart of best white-wine vinegar,
in a stone jar, on a trivet by the side of the
fire for three days, keeping it well closed;
when cold, bung them down tight, and cover
them with bladder wetted with the pickle
and leather.
ONIONS STEWED. The large Por-
tugal onions are the best: take off the top-
coats of half a dozen of these (taking cart
11*


ONI
ORA
126
■ot to cut off the tops or tails too near, or
the onions will go to pieces), and put them
into a stewpan broad enough to hold them
without laying them atop of one another,
and just cover them with good broth. Put
them over a slow fire, and let them simmer
about two hours; when you dish them, turn
them upside down, and pour the sauce over.
ONIONS TO PICKLE. Peel the onions
till they look white; boil some strong salt
and water, and pour it over them; let them
stand in this twenty-four hours, keep the
ressel closely covered to retain the steam:
after that time wipe the onions quite dry,
and when they are cold, pour boiling vinegar,
with ginger and white pepper over them.
Take care the vinegar always covers the
onions.
ONION SAUCE, YOUNG. Peel a
pint of button onions, and put them in water
till you want to put them on to boil; put
them into a stewpan, with a quart of cold
water; let them boil till tender; they will
take (according to their size and age) from
half an hour to an hour.
ONION SAUCE. Those who like the
full flavor of onions only cut off the strings
and tops (without peeling off any of the
skins), put them into salt and water, and let
them lie an hour; then wash them, put them
into a kettle with plenty of water, and boil
them till they are tender: now skin them,
pass them through a colander, and mix a
little melted butter with them. N. B. Some
mix the pulp of apples, or turnips, with the
onions, others add mustard to them.
ONIONS,TO PREPARE FOR SEA-
SONING. Peel and mince three or four
onions, put them into a saucepan with a lit-
tle cold water. Let them boil till quite
tender, and then pulp them with the liquor
through a hair sieve, when it may be mixed
with any made dishes or sauces.
ONIONS YOUNG, TO PICKLE.
Choose some of the small silver onions, put
them on in cold water, and when it is scald-
ing hot, take them nut with an egg slice;
peel off the skins till they look white and
clear; lay them into the folds of a cloth.
Boil, in a quart of vinegar, half an ounce of
pepper, a quarter of an ounce of allspice, the
same of garlic, and one sliced nutmeg; put
the onions into a jar, and pour over them
the boiling vinegar and spices. When cold,
tie leather over the jar.
ONIONS, PLAIN BOILED. Peel
them, and let them lie an hour in cold water,
put them on in boiling milk and water;
boil them till tender, and serve them with
melted butter poured over them.
ONIONS, ROAST. Roast them with
the skins on in a Dutch oven, that they may
brown equally. They are eaten with cold
fresh butter, pepper, and salt.
ONIONS STEWED. (1) Take a dozen
of good-sized onions, peel and put them on
in the following sauce:—A pint of veal stock,
a bit of butter rolled in flour, a little pepper,
and salt. Stew them gently for an hour,
and, just before serving, mix in three table-
spoonfuls of cream. To stew them in a
brown sauce, take the same quantity of good
gravy. In a stewpan brown, of a light co-
lor, a little butter and flour, add the gravy
and onions, with a little pepper and salt, and
stew them gently one hour.
ONIONS STEWED. (2) Peel five or
six large onions, put them into a Dutch oven
or cheese-toaster to roast, turn them frequent-
ly, and when they are well browned, put
them mto a saucepan, with a bone of dressed
or undressed meat, a slice of bacon, a little
water, and some pepper. Cover the pan
closely, and stew them till tender. Take
out the bone and the bacon; thicken the
sauce with a bit of butter rolled in flour.
ORANGE BISCUITS. Take the grat-
ed rind of an orange, six fresh eggs, a
quarter of a pound of flour, and three-quarT
ters of a pound of powder sugar; put these
into a mortar, beat them to a paste, which
put into cases, and bake like other bis-
cuits.
ORANGE CHEESECAKES. To be
made in the same way, as lemon cheese-
cakes.
ORANGE CREAM, frothed. Make
a pint of cream very sweet, put it over the
fire, let it just boil, put the juice of a large
orange into a small deep glass, having pre-
viously steeped a bit of orange-peel for a
short time in the juice, when the cream is
almost cold, pour it out of a tea-pot upon
the juice, holding it as high as possible.
ORANGE CUSTARD. Having boiled
the rind of a Seville orange very tender, beat
it in a mortar to a fine paste; put to it the
juice of a Seville orange, a spoonful of the
best brandy, four ounces of loaf-sugar, and
the yolks of four eggs; beat them all well
together ten minutes, then pour in by degrees
a pint of boiling cream; keep beatmg tt till
cold; put it into custard glasses. Set them
in an earthen dish of hot water; let them
stand till they are set, then stuJtt preserved


OR A
O VE
127
orange, or orange chips, on the top. It may
be served hot or cold.
ORANGE FOOL. Take the juice of
six oranges, six eggs well beaten, a pint of
cream, a quarter of a pound of sugar, a little
cinuamon and nutmeg. Mix all well togeth-
er; stir it over a slow fire till thick, then put
in a small piece of butter, and keep stirring
it till cold.
ORANGE GINGERBREAD. Sift two
pounds and a quarter of fine flour, and add
to it a pound and three-quarters of treacle,
six ounces of candied orange-peel cut small,
three-quarters of a pound of moist sugar, one
ounce of ground ginger, and one ounce of
allspice: melt to an oil three-quarters of a
pound of butter; mix the whole well togeth-
er, and lay it by for twelve hours; roll it
out with as little flour as possible, about
half an inch thick; cut it into pieces three
inches long and two wide; mark them in
the form of checkers with the back of a
knife; put them on a baking-plate about a
quarter of an inch apart; rub them over with
a brush dipped in the yolk of an egg beat up
with a tea-cupful of mtlk; bake it in a cool
oven about a quarter of an hour: when done,
wash them slightly over again, divide the
pieces with a knife (as in baking they will
run together).
ORANGE LIQUOR. To each orange,
.one quart of strong spirits, and one pound
and a quarter of loaf sugar are allowed; six
or eight cloves are to be stuck into each or-
ange, which, with the spirits and sugar, is
to be put into a jar. It must be closely cov-
ered, and stirred occasionally in-the course
of two months; it is then to be filtered through
blotting paper, and bottled for use.
Lemon liquor is made in the same way,
substituting lemons for oranges. Instead of
mixing the sugar with the other materials in
the jar, it may be made into a sirup, and
added to the strained or filtered spirits.
This, though more troublesome, will be found
a better method.
ORANGE OR LEMON-PEEL, TO
Mtx wtth stufftng. Peel a Seville or-
ange, or lemon, very thin, taking off only the
fine yellow rind (wtthout any of the whtte);
pound it in a mortar with a bit of lump su-
gar; rub it well with the peel; by degrees
add a little of the forcemeat it is to be mixed
with: when it is well ground and blended
with this, mix it with the whole: there is
no other way of incorporating tt so well.
Forcemeats, &c. are frequently spoiled by
the insufficient mixing of the ingredients.
ORANGE SIRUP, for Punch or
Puddtng- See Justice.
ORANGEADE. (1) Squeeze the juice;
pour some boiling water on the peel, and
cover it closely; boil water and sugar to a
thin sirup, and skim it; when ull are cold,
mix the juice, the infusion, and the sirup,
with as much water as will make a rich
sherbet; strain it through a jelly-bag.
ORANGEADE. (2) This refreshing
beverage is made precisely in the same man-
ner as lemonade, only substituting oranges
for lemons.
ORANGE PEEL RATAFIA. Put
the peels of a dozen thick-skinued oranges
into a gallon of brandy; dissolve two pounds
of sugar in the juice of the oranges, add to it
the brandy, and having stirred them togeth-
er well, close the vessel tightly, and leave if
for a month; then strain it off, and bottle it
ORGEAT. (1) Pound very fine one
pound iof Jordan, and one ounce of bitter,
almonds, in a marble mortar, with half a gill
of orange-flower water to keep them'from
oiling; then mix with them one pint of
rose and one pint of spring-water; rub it
through a tam is cloth or lawn sieve, till the
almonds are qutte dry, which will reduce the
quantity to about a quart: have ready three
pints of clarified sugar or water, and boil it
to a crack (which may be known by dipping
your fingers into the sugar, and then into
cold water; and if you find the sHgar to crack
in moving your finger, it has boiled enough);
put in the almonds; boil it one minute, and
when cold put it into small bottles close
corked; a table-spoonful of which will bo
sufficient for a tumbler of water: shake the
bottle before using. If the orgeat is for
present use, the almonds may be pounded as
above, and mixed with one quart of water,
one quart of milk, a pint of capillaire or
clarified sugar, rubbed through a tamis or
fine sieve, and put into decanters for use.
ORGEAT. (2) A quarter of a pound
of sweet, and one ounce and a half of bitter
almonds, are to be blanched, and thrown into
cold water,'then beaten in a marble mortar,
and moistened occasionally with a spoonful
of milk, to prevent their oiling; three pints
of milk are then to be mixed gradually with
them, and after being sweetened, boiled,
stirred till cold, and strained, a glass of wine
or brandy is to be added.
OVEN, DIRECTIONS FOR THE.
Be very careful to keep your oven clean, and
that there are no remains of sugar or fat that
may have run over from any thing that has
been ba'king. Puff-pastes require a mode-
rately hui oven, but not too hot, or it will
spoil the shape and turn it over; tart-paste


oxc
O Y S
123
or short crust, requtres a slower oven; pe-
tits-bhoux, one still slower; hut for raised
pics, let it \k as hot as for puff-paste at first,
and well closed, so that the pies may not fall.
Therefore, when you give a dinuer where
paste U necessary, endeavor to make it in
the morning; heat your oven first for the
puff-paste, which must be baked the first;
then let the oven go gradually down, and
bake your pastes in rotation, as the heat
falls. Savoy biscuits require a cool oven,
aml, by degrees, raise the heat as the biscuits
ate baking. For souffles or light puddings,
have a gentle oven,/and contrive so as to have
them nstdy by the tune they are wanted, or
they will fall. The greatest attention should
also be paid in heating the oven for baking
cakes, particularly for those that are large.
If not pretty quick, the batter will not rise.
Should you fear its catching by being too
quick, put paper over the cake to prevent its
being burnt. If not long enough lighted to
have a body of heat, or if it has become
slack, the cake will be heavy. To know
when it is soaked, take a broad bladed
knife that is very bright, and plunge it into
the centre; draw it instantly out, and if the
least stickiness adheres, put the cake imme-
diately in, and shut up the oven. If the heat
was sufficient to raise, but not to soak, fresh
fuel must be quickly put in, and the cakes
kept hot until the oven is fit to finish the
soaking, but this must only be done in a case
of great emergency; for those who are em-
ployed ought to be particularly careful that
no mistake occur from negligence.
OX-CHEEK STEWED. Prepare this
the day before it is to be eaten; clean it, and
put it into soft water just warm; let it lie
three or four hours, then put it into cold wa-
ter, and let it soak ail night; next day wipe
it clean, put it into a stewpan, and just cover
it with water; skim it well when it is com-
ing to a boil, then put two whole onions,
stick two or three cloves into each, three
turnips quartered, a couple of carrots sliced,
two bay-leaves, and twenty-four corns of all-
spice, a head of celery, and a bundle of
sweet-herbs, pepper, and salt; to these,
those who are for a " haut gout" may add
cayenne and garlic, in such proportions as
the palate that requires them may desire.
Let it stew gently till perfectly tender, i. e.
about three hours; then take out the cheek,
divide it into handsome pieces, fit to help at
table; skim, and strain the gravy; melt an
ounce and a half of butter in a stewpan; stir
into it as much flour as it will take up; mix
with it by degrees a pint and a half of the
gravy; add to it a table-spoonful of basil,
tarragon, or elder vinegar, or the like quan-
tlty of mushroom or walnut' ketchup, orcav-
'ce. or Port wine, and give it a boil.
OX CHEEK, TO BOIL. Wash very
clean, half a head; let it lie in cold water
all night; break the lwne in two, taking care
not to break the flesh. Put it on in a pot
of boiling water, and let it boil from two to
three hours; take out the bone. Serve it
with boiled carrots and turnips, or savoys.
The liquor the head has been boiled in may
be strained and made into Scots barley broth,
or Scots kale.
OX FEET JELLY. Put a little hot
water over the top of the stock, pour it off,
and wipe it dry with a clean cloth; put a
quart of it into a saucepan with the beaten
whites of five or six eggs, the juice of five
lemons made very sweet with good brown
sugar, a clove or two, and a little cinua-
mon pounded; let it boil twenty minutes,
stirring it all the time; take it off the fire,
and add a pint, or half a pint of white
wine, and run it through a jelly-bag till
clear.
OX-TAILS STEWED. Divide them
into joints; wash them; parboil them; set
them on to stew in just water enough to
cover them,—and dress'them in the same
manuer as we have directed in Stewed Gib-
lets, for which they are an excellent substi-
tute.
OYSTERS. Some piscivorous gour-r
mands think that oysters are not best when
quite fresh from their beds, and that their
flavor is too brackish and harsh, and is much
ameliorated by giving them a feed.
To feed oysters.—Cover them with
clean water, with a pint of salt to about two
gallons (-nothing else, no oatmeal, flour, nor
any other trumpery); this will cleanse them
from-the mud and sand, &c. of the bed; af-
ter they have lain in it twelve hours, change
it for fresh salt and water, and in twelve
hours more they will be in prime order for
the mouth, and remain so two or three days:
at the time of high water you may see them
open their shells, in expectation of receiving
their usual food. This process of feeding
oysters is only employed when a great many
come up together.
Common people are indifferent about the
manuer of opening oysters, and the time of
eating them after they are opened; nothing,
however, is more important in the enlight-
ened eyes of the experienced oyster-eater.
Those who wish to enjoy this delicious
restorative in its utmost perfection, muM
eat it the moment it is opened, with its owd
gravy in the under shell; if not eaten whi'e
absolutely alive, its flavor and spirit are lost
Shell-fish have long held a high rank i a
the catalogue of easily digestible and speed,-
ly restorattve foods; of these the oyster cei'


OT S
O YS
129
tainly deserves the best character, but we
think it has acquired not a little more repu-
tation for these qualities than it deserves; a
well-dressed chop or steak, will invigorate
the heart in a much higher ratio; to recruit
the animal spirits, and support strength,
there is nothing equaj to animal food; when
Kept till properly tender, none will give so
little trouble to the digestive organs, and so
much substantial excitement to the constitu-
tion.
OYSTER ATTELETS. Cut into small
pieces a sweetbread and a slice or two of
bacon, beard some large oysters, and season
all highly with chopped parsley, shallot, a
little thyme, pepper and salt. Then fasten
lbem alternately upon wire skewers; put
sifted bread crumbs over them, and broil or
fry them of a light brown color. Take them
off the skewers, and serve them with some
rich gravy, to which add a little ketchup and
lemon pickle.
OYSTERS, BAKED. Grate a emall
loaf of stale bread. Butter a deep dish well,
and cover the sides and bottom with bread
crumbs. Put in half the oysters with a Hi-
de mace and pepper. Cover them with
crumbs and small bits of butter strewed over
them. Then put in the remainder of the
oysters- ^Season them. Cover them as
before with crumbs and butter. If the oys-
ters are 'fresh pour in the'liquor. If they
are salt, substitute a little water. Bake it a
very short time.
OYSTERS, FRIED. (1) Make a batter
as for pancakes, seasoned with grated nut-
meg, white pepper, and salt, and add some
finely grated bread crumbs; dip in the oys-
ters, and fry them of a light brown in beef
dripping.
Another way is, to dip them into the white
of an egg beat up, and roll them in finely
grated bread crumbs, seasoned with grated
nutmeg, pepper and salt, and fry them as
directed.
OYSTERS, FRIED. (2) The largest
and finest oysters are to be chosen for this
purpose; simmer them in their own liquor
for a couple of minutes, take them out and
lay them on a cloth to drain, beard them and
then flour them, egg and bread-crumB them,
put them into boiling fat, and fry them a
delicate brown. 06s.—An elegant garnish
for made dishes, stewed rump-steaks, boiled
or fried fish, &e.; but they are too hard and
dry to lie eaten.
OYSTERS, FRIED. (3) For frying,
choose the largest and finest oysters. Beat
come yolks of eggs, and mix with them grat-
ed bread, and a small quantity of beater
nutmeg and mace, and a little salt. Hav-
ing stirred this batter well, dip your oys-
ters into it, and fry them in lard, till they
are of a light brown color. Take care not
to do them too much. Serve them up hot.
For grated bread, some substitute crackers
pounded to a powder, and mixed with volk
of egg and spice.
OYSTERS, TO KEEP AND FAT-
TEN. Put them into water, and wash and
clean them with a birch broom; laying them
with the deep shell downwards into a tub or
broad platter, and then spri nk le them over with
salt. The following day pour over them and
fill the vessel with clean cold water, in which
they must remain an hour, then pour it off
again; sprinkle them with salt, and let this
be repeated every day. This method will
keep them good for a fortnight.
OYSTER KETCHUP. (1) Take
fine fresh oysters; wash them in their own
liquor; skim it; pound them in a marble
mortar; to a pint of oysters add a pint of
Sherry; boil them up, and add an ounce of
salt, two o'rachms of pounded mace, and one
of cayenue; let it just boil up again; skim
it, and rub it through a sieve, and when cold,
bottle it, cork it well, and seal it down.
N. B. It is the best way to pound the salt
and spices, &c. with the oysters.
Obs.—This composition very agreeably
heightens the flavor of white sauces, and
white made-dishes; and if you add a glass
of brandy to it, it will keep good for a consi-
derable time longer than oysters are out of
season.
OYSTER KETCHUP. (2) Boil one
hundred oysters with their liquor, till the
strength be extracted from them; strain them
well, and add to the liquor an equal quanti-
ty of wine, one half Port and the other
Sherry, also a quarter of an ounce of mace,
the same of white pepper and of allspice, a
drachm or tea-spoonful of ginger, and six
anchovies; boil all together about fifteen
minutes. Put into ajar twelve shallots, the
peel of a lemon, and a piece of horse-radish
cut small; pour upon them the boiling li-
quor, and when cold, bottle it, together with
the spices.
OYSTER LOAVES. Cut off the top
of some small French rolls, take out the
crumb, and fry them brown and crisp with
clarified butter, then fry some bread crumbs;
stew the requisite quantity of oysters, beard-
ed and cut in two, in their Ltquor, with a
little white wine, some gravy, and seasoned
with grated lemon-peel, pounded mace, pep-
per, and salt; add a bit of butter; fill the


O YS
O YS
130
rolls with the oysters, and serve them with
the fried bread crumbs in the dish.
OYSTER PATTIES. (1) Roll out puff
paste a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into
squares with a knife, sheet eight or ten patty
pans, put upon each a bit of bread the size
of half a walnut; roll out another layer of
paste of the same thickness, cut it as above,
wet the edge of the bottom paste, and put
on the top, pare them round to the pan, and
notch them about a dozen times with the
back of the knife, rub them lightly with yolk
of egg, bake them in a hot oven about a
quarter of an hour:*when done, take a thin
slice off the top, then, with a small knife or
spoon, take out the bread and the inside
paste, leaving the outside quite entire; then
parboil two dozen oT large oysters, strain
them from their liquor, wash, beard, and cut
them into four, put them into a stewpan
with an ounce of butter rolled in flour, half
a gill of good cream, a little grated lemon-
peel, the oyster liquor, free from sediment,
reduced by boiling to one half, some cayenue
pepper, salt, and a tea-spoonful of lemon-
juice; stir it over a fire five minutes, and
fill the patties. \
OYSTER PATTIES. (2) Make some
rich puff paste, and bake it in very small tin
patty-pans. When cool, turn them out upon
a large dish. Stew some large fresh oysters
with a few cloves, a little mace and nutmeg,
some yolk of egg boiled hard, and grated, a
little butter, and as much of the oyster liquor
as will cover them. When they have stew-
ed a little while, take them out of the pan,
and set them away to cool. When quite
cold, lay two or three oysters in each shell
of puff-paste.
OYSTER PIE. Beard a quart of fine
oysters, strain the liquor, and add them to
it. Cut into thin slices the kidney fat of a
loin of veal; season them with white pep-
per, salt, mace, and grated lemon-peel; lay
them on the bottom of a pie dish, put in the
oysters and liquor, with a little more season-
ing; put over them the marrow of two bones.
Lay a border of puff paste round the edge of
the dish; cover it with paste, and bake it
nearly three-quarters of an hour.
OYSTERS, PRESERVED. Open
the oysters carefully, so as not to cut them
except in dividing the gristle which attaches
the shells; put them into a mortar, and
when you have got as many as you can con-
veniently pound at once, add about two
drachms of salt to a dozen oysters; pound
them, and rub them through the back of a
hair sieve, and put them into a mortar again,
with as much flour (which has been pre-
viously thoroughly dried) as will make them
into a paste; roll it out several times, and,
lastly, flour it, and roll it out the thickness
of a half-crown, and divide it into pieces
about an inch square; lay them in a Dutch
oven, where they will dry so gently as not to
get burnt: turn them every half hour, and
when they begin to dry, crumble them; they
will take about four hours to dry; then
pound them fine, sift them, and put them
into bottles and seal them over.
N. B. Three dozen required seven and a
half ounces of dried flour to make them into
a paste which then weighed eleven ounces;
when dried and powdered, six and a quar-
ter ounces.
To make half a pint of sauce, put one
ounce of butter into a stewpan with three
drachms of oyster powder, and six table-
tpoon&b of milk; set it on a slow fire; stir
it till it boils, and season it with salt.
This powder, if made with plump, juicy
oysters, will abound with the flavor of the
fish; and if closely corked, and kept in a
dry place, will remain good for sometime.
This extract is a welcome succedaneum
while oysters are out of season, and in such
inland parts as seldom have any, is a valua-
ble addition to the list of fish sauces: it is
equally good with boiled fowl, or rump steak,
and sprmkled on bread and butter makes a
very good sandwich, and is espqsjally wor-
thy the notice of country housekeepers, and
as a store sauce for the army and navy.
OYSTERS, TO PICKLE. Open them
carefully, preserving all their liquor; put
them into a saucepan over the fire, stirring
them now and then, and when the liquor
boils take them off, skim the surface, and
put the oysters into a bowl; let the liquor
settle, pour off the clear part, and put it on
to boil, with, to three hundred oysters, half
an ounce of whole black pepper, a little
mace and allspice; boil it ten minutes, then
add the-oysters, and let them boil two min-
utes; put them into a jar, and when they
are cold, tie a paper over it.
OYSTER SAUCE. When your oys-
ters are opened, take care of all the liquor
and give them one boil in it. Then take
the oysters out, and put to the liquor three
or four blades of mace. Add to tt some
melted butter, and some thick cream or
rich milk. Put in your oysters and give
them a boil.
OYSTERSOUP. (1) Threepintsotlarge
fresh oysters. Two table-spoonfuls of but-
ter, rolled in flour. A bunch of swent herbs.
A quart of rich milk. Pepper to your taste.
Take the liquor of three pints of oysters.
Strain it, and set it on the fire. Put mto tt*


o vs
O Y 3
131
Eepper to your taste, two table-spoonfuls of
utter rolled in flour, and a bunch of sweet
marjoram and other pot-herbs. When it
boils add a quart of rich milk—and as soon
as it boils again take out the herbs, and
put in the oysters just before you send it to
table.
OYSTER SOUP. (2) Boil in water the
crumb of two twopenuy rolls, with a few blades
of mace, a tea-spoonful of whole white pep-
per, and four onions cut small. Pick out
the spice, and rub the bread and onions
through a hair sieve, then add it to three
quarts of well-seasoned strong veal stock.
Rub down three ounces of butter, with a
table-spoonful of flour, and mix it gradually
with half a pint of the soup, and then stir ail
well together. When it has boiled a short
time, add with the liquor half a hundred or
more of fine oysters, and let the whole sim-
mer for ten or fifteen minutes. If the soup
is not quite salt enough with the liquor of
the oysters, a little salt may be added.
OYSTERS SCALLOPED. (1) Put
them, with their liquor strained, two or three
blades of mace, a few peppercorns, a little
cayenue, and a piece of butter the size of a
walnut, kneaded with flour, into a stewpan.
Simmer them very gently for half an hour,
by no means letting them boil; pick out the
mace and pepper; have ready, finely grated
bread-crumbs, seasoned with pepper and
salt; put into the scaliop-shells, or into a
dish, alternately a layer of bread-crumbs,
then one of oysters and part of their liquor;
and stick over the last layer of bread-crumbs
a few bits of butter, and brown them in a
Dutch oven for fifteen or twenty minutes.
OYSTERS SCALLOPED. (2) Take
off the beards, stew them in their liquor
strained, with a little mace, white |iepper,
and salt. Fry in a stewpan, with a bit of
butter, some grated bread-crumbs, till of a
nice brown; put them alternately with the
oysters into a dish.
OYSTERS SCALLOPED. (3) A
go od way to warm up any coldjish. Stew
the oysters slowly in their own liquor for two
or three minutes, take them out with a spoon,
beard them, and skim the liquor, put a bit
of butter into a stewpan; when it is melted,
add as much fine bread-crumbs as will dry
it up, then put to it the oyster liquor, and
give it a boil up, put the oysters into scal-
lop-shells that you have buttered, and strew-
ed with bread-crumbs, then a layer of oys-
ters, then of bread-crumbs, and then some
more oysters; moisten it with the oyster li-
quor, cover them with bread-crumbs, p:tt
about half a dozen little bits of butter on the
top of each, and brown them in a Dutch ov-
en. Essence of anchovy, ketchup, cayenue,
grated lemon-peel, mace, and other spices,
&c. are added by those who prefer piquance
to the genuine flavor of the oyster.
Cold fish may be re-dressed the same way
N. B. Small scallop-shells, or saucers that
hold about half a dozen oysters, are the most
conven ient.
OYSTERS STEWED. (1) Stew with
a quart of oysters, and their liquor strained,
a glass of white wine, one anchovy bruised,
seasoned with white pepper, salt, a little
mace, and a bunch of sweet herbs; let all
stew gently a quarter of an hour. Pick out
the bunch of herbs, and add a quarter of a
pound of fresh butter kneaded in a large ta*
ble-spoonful of flour, and stew them ten or
twelve minutes. Serve them garnished with
bread-sippets and cut lemon. They may lie
stewed simply in their own liquor, seasoned
with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, and
thickened with cream, flour, and butter.
OYSTERS STEWED. (2) Open the
oysters and strain the liquor. Put to them
some grated stale bread, and a little pep|ier
and nutmeg. Throw them into the liquor,
and add a glass of white wine. Let them
stew but a very short time, or they will be
hard. Have ready some slices of buttered
toast with the crust ofT. When the oysters
are done, dip the toast in the liquor, and
lay the pieces round the sides and in the
bottom of a deep dish. Pour the oysters and
liquor upon the toast and send them to ta-
ble hot.
OYSTERS STEWED. (3) Large oys-
ters will do for stewing, and by some are pre-
ferred. Stew a couple of dozen of these in
their own liquor; when they are coming to a
boil, skim well, take them up and beard them;
strain the liquor through a tamis-sieve, and
lay the oysters on a dish. Put an ounce of
butter into a stewpan; when it is melted,
put to it as much flour as will dry it up, tlte
liquor of the oysters, and three table-spoon-
fuls of milk or cream, and a little white pep-
per and salt; to this some cooks add a little
ketchup, or finely-chopped parsley, grated
lemon-peel, and juice; let it boil up for a
couple of minutes, till it is smooth, then take
it off the fire, put in the oysters, and let them
get warm (they must not themselves be boil-
ed, or they will become hard); line the bot-
tom and sides of a hash-dish with bread-
sippets, and pour your oysters and sauce
into it.


PAN
PAN
132
P.
PALATES AND SWEETBREADS.
Boil the palates till the black skm can be
easily peeled off; parboil the sweetbreads
with them; skin and cut the palates into
pieces, and if the sweetbreads are large, cut
them in two the long way; dust them with
flour, and fry them of a ltght brown, in but-
ter; then stew them in rather more than a
pint of the liquor in which they were boiled.
Brown a piece of butter with flour; add
it, with a little cayenue, salt, pepper, grated
lemon-peel, and nutmeg, and a glass of white
wine. A little before serving, stir in a
spoonful of vinegar, or the squeeze of a lem-
on.
PANADA. (1) Boil some pieces of stale
bread in a sufficient quantity of cold water
to cover them, with a little cinuamon, lemon-
peel, and caraways; when the bread is qutte
soft, press out all the water, and beat up the
bread with a small piece of butter, a little
milk, and sugar to the taste; a little sptce
may be added.
PANADA. (2) Set a little water on
the fire with a glass of white wine, some su-
gar, a very little nutmeg, and lemon-peel;
meanwhile grate some crumbs of bread: the
moment the water boils up, put in the bread-
crumb (without taking it off the fire), and
let it boil as fast as it can. When of a
proper consistence, that is, when just of a
sufficient thickness to drink, take it off the
fire.
PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. Break
three eggs in a basin; beat them up with a
little nutmeg and salt; then put to them four
ounces and a half of flour, and a little milk;
beat it of a smooth batter; then add by de-
grees as much milk as will make it of the
thickness of good cream: the frying-pan must
be about the size of a pudding plate, and
very clean, or they will stick; make it hot,
and to each pancake put in a bit of butter
ubout as big as a walnut: when it is melted,
pour in the batter to cover the bottom of the
pan; make them the thickness of half a
crown; fry them of a light brown on both
sides. The abdve will do for apple fritters,
by adding one spoonful more of flour; peel
your apples, and cut them in thick slices;
take out the core, dip them in the batter,
and fry them in hot lard; put them on a
sieve to drain; dish them neatly, and grate
•ome loaf-sugar over them.
| PANCAKES IN APPLES. Cut some
I apples very small, stew them with a little
I white wine, grated lemon-peel, pounded cin-
I namon, and brown sugar; mash them, and
spread it over pancakes; roll them up, ana
serve with sifted loaf-sugar over them.
I PANCAKES COMMON. With neai-
j ly half a pound of flour, mix five well-lieaten
eggs, and then add, by degrees, a quart of
good milk; fry them in fresh lard, and
serve them with pounded loaf-sugar strewed
between each.
PANCAKES FINE. To three table-
spoonfuls of flour add six well-beaten eggs,
three table-spoonfuls of white wine, four
ounces of melted butter nearly cold, the same
quantity of pounded loaf-sugar, half a grated
nutmeg, and a pint of cream; mix it well,
j beating the batter for sometime, and pour
I it thm over the pan.
PANCAKE, RICE. Add to three well-
beaten eggs a pmt of new milk, three table-
. spoonfuls of boiled rice, some sugar, and a
little |wunded cinuamon; mix it all well to-
gether, and fry it in butter; brown the up-
per side for a minute before the fire; serve
it, cut into four, with pounded sugar strewed
over it.
'PANCAKE RISSOLES. Mince fine-
ly some cold veal, season it w ith grated lem-
on-peel, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and a little
lemon pickle; warm it up with some good
! gravy, and a small bit of butter rolled in
flour. Have ready a latter as for pancakes,
seasoned with a little salt and grated nutmeg.
: Fry a thin pancake, turn it, and put into
; the middle two table-spoonfuls of tite minced
! veal; fold it in at each side and at the ends
! in an oblong form, and fry them of a light
brown color ; lay them upon the back of a
sieve to drain before the fire. Four or six
j will make a dish. They are served as a
1 corner or top dish.
PANCAKES, SCOTCH. Mix with
six table-spoonfuls of flour a little cream, add
the beaten yolks of six eggs, and then mix in
a pint of cream, the grated peel of a small
lemon, a table-spoonful of pounded sugar,
and a little ratafia; when the batter is very
. well beaten, and just before using, mix in
the whites of the eggs beaten with a knife,
to a stiff froth. Put a little butter or lard
into the frying-pan, make it hot, pour it out,
j and wipe the pari with a clean cloth; put in
some butter or lard, and when hot, pour in a
I tea-cupful of the batter; shake it, and wben
j firm, prick it a little with a fork, but do not
1 turn it; hold it before the fire a minute to


PAR
PAR
133
brown. Serve them with pounded loaf-su-
gar strewed over them.
PANCAKE, THICK. Beat separate-
ly the yolks and whites of two eggs; mix
with the yolks a table-spoonful and a half of
flour, a little sugar and white wine, half a
pint of cream or good milk; add the whites,
and fry it in a broad saucepan, witlt butter
pr clarified suet; brown the upper side be-
fore the fire; warm any sort of preserve,
spread it upon one half, and turn the other
over it, and strew upon it pounded loaf su-
gar.
PANNEQUETS. Put into a pan, two
ounces of sifted flour, four of powder-sugar,
the same of bitter macaroons, and a spoon-
ful of dried orange-flowers; break up all
these articles, and mix with them the yolks
often eggs, four large glasses of double cream,
and a pinch of salt. Wash the bottom of a
frying-pan lightly with some warm clarified
butter, then put m it a spoonful of the above
preparation, spread it over the pan, to make
the paste as thin as' possible; when the pan-
nequet becomes lightly colored, turn it over
carefully, and do the other side; lhen put it
on a tin plate, spread a little apricot marma-
lade over, and having strewed crushed maca-
roons on that, roll up the panuequet till about
an inch in diameter; in the meantime put a
second spoonful of your preparation into the
pan, and proceed in the above manuer, gar-
nishing one panuequet whilst another is
cooking; taking care, however, to set the
pan over a gentle fire. When all are done,
cut the panuequets three inches in length,
glaze, and dish them.
PARSLEY. To preserve parsley through
the winter:—in May, June, or July, take
fine fresh-gathered sprtgs; pick, and wash
them clean; set on a stew pan half full of wa-
ter; put a little salt in it; boil, and skim it
clean, and then put in the parsley, and let it
boil- for a couple of minutes; take it out, and
lay it on a sieve before the fire, that it may
be dried as quick as possible; put it by in a
tin box, and keep it in a dry place: when
you want it, lay it in a basin, and cover it
with warm water a few minutes before you
use it.
PARSLEY BUTTER. Wash some
parsley very clean, and pick it carefully leaf
by leaf; put a tea-spoonful of salt into half
a pint of boiling water: boil the parsley
about ten minutes; drain it on a sieve;
mince it quite line, and then bruise it to a
pulp. The delicacy and excellence of this
elegant and inuocent relish depends upon the
parsley being minced very fine: put it into a
muce-ooat, and mix wtth it, by degrees,
about half a pint of good melted butter, only
do not put so much flour to it, as the para-
ley will add to its thickness: never pour
parsley and butter over boiled things, but
send it up in a boat.
PARSLEY, CRISP. Pick and wash
young parsley, shake it in a dry cloth to
drain the water from it; spread it on a sheet
of clean paper in a Dutch oven before the
fire, and turn it frequently until it is quite
crisp. This is a much more easy way of
preparing it than frying it, which is not sel-
dom ill done.
PARSNIPS, TO BOIL. Scrape and
wash them nicely; when large, div ide them;
boil them in milk. and water till quite tender;
they will take nearly as long to boil as car-
rots. They may also be mashed like tur-
nips.
PARTRIDGES, TO CHOOSE. When
they are young the bill is of a dark color,
and their legs are of a yellowish color; and
when fresh, the vent is firm, but this part
will look greenish when stale. The plumage
on the breast of the hen is light, that on the
cock is tinged with red.
PARTRIDGES BROILED. Take
five partridges, cut them in halves, trim and
dip them in melted butter, and bread them
twice; a quarter of an hour before dinuer
broil them.
PARTRIDGES MINCED. Take the
fillets from eight roasted partridges, mince,
and put them into a saucepan; make a light
roux, in which put the livers and lights of
the birds, a bay-leaf, a clove, three shallots,
and a little sage, give them a few turns, and
then add two large glasses of stock, reduce
the sauce to half, strain and put it to the
mince, stirring til) it is thick and smooth;
make it hot, but not boiling; serve it over
fried bread, and garnish your dish, with
either poached or hard eggs.
PARTRIDGE IN BREAD. Take a
nice shaped loaf, of about a pound weight;
make a hole at one end, through which take
out all the crumbs, rub the crust over with a
little butter or lard, and set it in the oven for
a few minutes to dry: fill this with minced
partridge (see that article), and put the loaf,
bottom upwards, into a stewpau; add two
spoonfuls of veal blond, with any other gar-
nish you please; let it remain on the fiie till
the bread is soft enough to allow a straw to
penetrate it, then take it out and dish it with
the sauce round.
PARTRIDGE PIE IN A DISH. Take


PAH
PAS
134
four partridges, pick and singe them; cut
offthuir legs at the knee; season with pep-
per, salt, chopped parsley, thyme, and mush-
rooms. Put a veal steak and a slice of ham
at the bottom of the dish; put in the par-
tridges with half a pint of good consomme.
Line the edges of the dish with puff paste,
and cover with the same; do it over with
egg, and let it bake for an hour.
PARTRIDGE TO ROAST. Take
out the entrails, and singe the partridge over
the stove, then roll a bit of butter in pepper
and salt, and put it into the inside of the
bird; truss it neatly with the head turned on
one side, keeping the breast as full as possi-
ble; over which should be laid slices of fat
bacon tied on with pack-thread; before it is
put on the spit, break the back-bone, that it
may lay the better on the dish. A good
sized partridge will take half an hour; when
nearly done, take away the bacon, brown
the partridge well; sprinkle it with flour and
salt, and froth it with butter; serve it with
water-cresses, a good gravy under it, and
bread sauce in a boat.
PARTRIDGE TO TRUSS. Let it be
well picked and singed, then cut a slit in
the back of the neck, and carefully take the
crop out without breaking it; then cut off
the vent, and draw out the inside; after this,
well wipe the inside, and then put in a little
pepper and salt, mixed with a bit of butter.
Having cleansed it, proceed to truss the
bird, by first cutting off the pinion at the first
joint, so that the feathers need not be picked
off that part; break the back-bone, and truss
it in the same manuer as A fowl, by pressing
the legs close to the apron, then turn the bird
on the breast, and run a skewer through the
end of the pinion, the leg, the body, and the
leg and pinion on the other side, with the
head fixed on the end of the skewer, and
over the breast lay a slice of fat bacon, and
tie it on with pack-thread. If for boiling or
stewing, truss them the same as a fowl for
boiling.
PARTRIDGES TO STEW. Truss
the partridges as fowls are done for boiling;
pound the livers with double the quantity of
lat bacon and bread-crumbs boiled in milk;
and some chopped parsley, thyme, shallots,
and mushrooms; season with pepper, salt,
grated lemon-peel, and mace. Stuff the in-
side of the birds, tie them at both ends, and
put them into a stewpan lined with slices of
bacon; add a quart of good stock, half a pint
of white wine, two onions, a bunch of sweet
herbs, and a few blades of mace; let them
stew gently till tender; take them out, strain
and thicken the sauce with flour and butter,
make it hot, and pour it over tbe partridges.
PASTE. Be very particular that your
slab or paste table, rolling-pin and cutters
are clean, and free from all old paste, and be
very careful that both the flour and buttet
are extremely good. Have a dry sieve al
ways in readiness, in or by the flour tub,
so as to use none without sifting it; for.
though it may appear pure and fine, bran, or
small particles of old paste may have fallen
into it; sifting is, therefore, always neces-
sary. Weigh one pound of flour, lay it in a
circle on the slab: break one egg in the cen-
tre, put a small quantity of salt, and a little
bit of butter; mix all these together lightly,
add a little water, mix them again, then add
more water, and so proceed until it binds
into paste; but take care that you do not
make it too stiff, nor squeeze it much to-
gether, till you find there is sufftcient water;
then work it well together, and roll it out on
the slab, but do not roll it too thin; work a
pound of butter on the slab, spread it out to
the size of the paste, with a knife cut it oflf
altogether, and lay it on the paste; then
double the ends of the paste together, to in-
close the butter; then give it one turn, thus:
roll it out till you just perceive the butter
through the paste; turn the end which is
next to you half way over, and the other end
over that, roll it once or twice with the roll-
ing-pin; then let it stand, this is called one
turn; then, in three minutes time, turn it
again, and so proceed until you have given
it six turns; then roll it out, and cut it for
patties or any shape you please; but observe
not to put over them too much egg, as that
will prevent their rising; as soon as they
are baked, take them offthe sheet, lay them
on paper, and when cold, scrape the bottoms,
neatly cut out the insides ready for what-
ever you mean to put into them. For bak-
ing, see directions for the oven.
PASTE, BEEF DRIPPING. Rub
into one pound of flour half a pound of
clarified beef dripping, till it all looks like
flour; work it to a stiff paste with cold wa-
ter, and roll it out two or three times. This
paste answers very well for common pies, hut
must be used when hot and fresh baked.
PASTE FOR BOILED PUDDINGS.
Pick and chop very fine half a pound of beef
suet, add to it one pound and a quarter of
flour, and a little salt: mix it with half a
pint of milk or water, and beat it well with
the rolling-pin, to incorporate the suet with
the flour.
PASTE FOR CHEESECAKES. Rub
equal quantities of flour and butter, together
with a little pounded and sifted loaf sugar,
make it into a paste, with warm milk, roll
it out, and lina the pani with it.


PAS
PAS
135
PASTE, CRISP. Rub a quarter of a
pound of flour, ado two table-spoonfuls of
pounded loaf-sugar, and the well-beaten yolks
of two or three eggs, work it well wtth a
born-spoon, and roll it out very thin, touch-
ing it as little as possible with the hands;
the moment before putting into a quick oven
ruo tt over with the well-beaten white of an
egg. and sift all over the tart finely-pounded
sugar. This crust may be used for any fruit
tarts.
PASTE FOR CROQUANTS OR
Cut Pastry. To half a pound of fine
flour put a quarter of a pound of sifted loaf-
sugar; mix it well together with yolks of
eggs till of a good stiffness.
PASTE FOR A COMMON DUM-
PLING. Rub into a pound of flour six
ounces of butter, then work it into a paste
with two well-beaten eggs and a little water.
This paste may be baked, a large table-spoon-
ful of pounded loaf-sugar being added to it.
PASTE FOR FAMILY PIES. Rub
into one pound and a half of flour, half a
pound of butter, wet it with cold water suffi-
cient to make it into a stiff paste; work it
well, and roll it out two or three times.
PASTE, POTATO. Mash sixteen oun-
ces of boiled potatoes, while they are warm,
then rub them between the hands, together
with twelve ounces of flour; when it is well
mixed, and all looks like flour, add half a
tea-spoonful of salt, and, with a little cold
water, make it into a stiff paste; beat and
roll it out three or four times, making it very
thin the last time. Lay it over black cur-
rant jam, raspberries, or any sort of preserve,
rub the edges with water, roll it up like a
bolster pudding, and boil it in a buttered
and floured cloth for three or fatr hours.
Serve it with a sweet sauce.
PASTE, PUFF. Weigh an equal quan-
tity of flour and butter, rub rather more than
the half of the flour into one third of the
butter, then add as much cold water as will
make it into a stiff paste; work it until the
butter be completely mixed with the flour,
make it round, beat it with the rolling-pin,
dust it,as also the rolling-pin, with flour, and
roll it out towards the opposite side of the
slab, or paste-board, making it of-an equal
thickness; then with the point of a knife put
little bits of butter all over it, dust flour over
and under it, fold in the sides and roll it up,
dust it again with flour, beat it a little, and
roll it out, always rubbing the rolling-pin
with flour, and throwing some underneath the
paste, to prevent its sticking to the board.
Jf the butter is not ail easily put in at the
second time of rolling out the paste, th«
remainder may be put in at the third; it
should be touched as little as possible with
the hands.
PASTE, PYRAMID. Make a rich
puff paste, roll it out a quarter of an inch
thick, and cut it into five or seven pieces
with scalloped tin paste cutters, which go
one within another; leave the bottom and
top piece entire, and cut a bit out of the
centre of the others; bake them of a light
brown upon buttered paper placed upon tins.
When served, build them into a pyramid,
laying a different preserved fruit upon each
piece of paste, and on the top a whole apri-
cot, with a sprig of myrtle stuck into it, or
green-gages, ornamented with a bunch of
barberries.
PASTE FOR MEAT OR SAVORY
PIES. Sift two pounds of fine flour to one
and a half of good salt butter, break it into
small pieces, and wash it well in cold wa-
ter; rub gently together the butter and flour,
and mix it up with the yolk of three eggs,
beat together with a spoon; and nearly a
pint of spring-water; roll it out, and double
it in folds three times, and it is ready.
PASTE FOR RAISED PIES. Take
four pounds of flour, one pound of butter,
and a little salt, mix these together, adding
water, a little at a time, taking care not to
put too much, as this paste must made as
stiff as possible; when thoroughly mixed,
give it two or three turns, roll it and cut it
out to the shapegvou want for your pie.
Sometimes the butter is melted in warm wa-
ter, and so mixed with the flour; then it
will not require so much water, and the
paste will stand better; but as you work
your paste, when you find it get too cold,
warm it a little; the first method of doing
it is the best, if intended to be eaten.
PASTE, RICE. (1) Mix together half
a pound of sifted ground rice and a quarter
of a pound of fresh butter, work it into a
paste with cold water, dredge flour over the
paste-board and rolling-pin, roll out the
paste, and put over it, in bttle bits, another
quarter of a pound of butter; fold and roll it
out three times, strewing each time a little
flour over and under it, as also over the
rolling-pin. Cover the tart, and glaze it be-
fore lieing baked. This paste must be eaten
the day it is baked.
PASTE, RICE. (2) Boil, in a pint of
water, half a pound of good rice; drain off the
water, and pound the rice in a mortar, with
a small bit of butter, and an egg beaten;
then roll it out to cover any fruit tart


PEA
PEA
136
PASTE, RICH SHORT.' Weigh
equal quantities of flour, of butter, and of
pounded and sifted loaf-sugar; rub the but-
ter with the flour, then mix in the sugar,
and rub it together till it will roll out; put
it alxmt half an inch thick over the tart,
which may be of cherries, raspberries, or
currants.
PASTE, SHORT, FOR TARTS.
Take one pound of flour, lay it on the slab,
and in the centre put half a pound of butter,
two eggs, a very little salt, and a little wa-
ter, mix them lightly together, and continue
adding more water, till you find it bind; mix
it on the slab a little, and give it two turns,
it is then ready for use.
PASTE, SUET. Rub well with half a
pound of fresh beef suet, chopped as finely as
possible, three-quarters of a pound of flour,
and half a tea-spoonfut of salt; make it into
a stiff paste with cold water, work it well,
beat it with the rolling-pin, and roll it out
two or three times. This paste answers for
any kind of boiled fruit pudding.
PASTE, SWEET. Rub into half a
pound of flour three ounces of butter and the
same of pounded loaf-sugar, add one beaten
egg, and as much warm water as will make
it mto a paste; roll it thin for any kind of
fruit tart, rub it over with the beaten white
of an egg, and sift sugar over it.
PASTE FOR STRINGING TART-
LETS. Mix with your hands a quarter
of a pound of flour, an ounce of fresh butter,
and a little cold water; 4hb it well between
the board and your hand till it begins to
string; cut it into small pieces, roll it out,
and draw it into fine- strings, lay them across
your tartlets in any device you please, and
bake them immediately.
PATTIES FOR FRIED BREAD. Cut
the crumb of a loaf of bread into square or
round pieces nearly three inches high, and
cut bits the same width for tops; mark them
neatly with a knife; fry the bread of a light
brown color in clarified beef-dripping or fine
lard. Scoop out the inside crumb, take
care not to go too near to the bottom; fill
them with mince meat, prepared as for pat-
ties, with stewed oysters, or with sausage
meat; put on the tops, and serve them upon
a napkin.
PATTIES, LOBSTER. See Lobsters.
PEACHES, CHARLOTTE OF. Take
twenty tolerably ripe peaches, cut them in
halves, and scald them in a light sirup; then
drain and cut each half mto three pieces
(lengthwise) of equal thickness; put these
into a pan with a quarter of a pound of pow-
der-sugar, and half the quantity of warm
butter; fry them lightly, and having prepar-
ed your Charlotte m the usual way, pour in
the peaches and finish it (see Charlotte').
When in the dish for table, cover it com-
pletely with the sirup, and serve immedi-
ately.
PEARS BAKED. (1) Take twelve large
baking pears; pare and cut them into halves,
leaving the stem about half an inch long;
take out the core with the point of a knife,
and place them close together in a block-tin
saucepan, the inside of which is quite bright,
with the cover to fit quite close; put to them
the rind of a lemon cut thin, with half its
juice, a small stick of cinuamon, and twenty
grains of allspice; cover them with spring-
water, and allow one pound of loaf-sugar to
a pint and a half of water: cover them up
close, and bake them for six hours in a very
slow oven: they will be quite tender, and of a
bright color. Obs.—Prepared cochineal is
generally used for coloring the pears; but
tf the above is strictly attended to, it will be
found to'answer best.
PEARS BAKED. (2) Take half a
dozen fine pears, peel, cut them in halves,
and take out the cores; put them into a pan
with a little red wine, a few cloves, half a
pound of sugar, and some water. Set them
in a moderate oven till tender, then put them
on a slow fire to stew gently; add grated
lemon-peel, and more sugar if necessary.
They will be sufficiently red.
PEARS COMPOTE. Choose your
fruit carefully, take off the tops, and trim
the tails, wash and drain them well; then
put them into a skillet with sugar, cinua-
mon, two or three cloves, a little red wine,
and some water. Set them on a slow fire,
taking care to skin them. When sufficiently
done, they will look wrinkled. Peel your
fruit, and put it into a well glazed pipkin,
with a glass of wine, a little cinuamon,
sugar to the taste, and a little water; put in
also a pewter spoon; cover the pipkin close,
and set it on hot ashes.. When done, the
pears will be of a fine red color.
PEARS TO COMPOUND. Take a
dozen large pears, coddle them; when ten-
der, take them out and lay them in cold wa-
ter, pare and cut them in halves; take out
the cores, put them in sirup made thus:—
Two pixmds and a half of sugar to three
pints of water, a little lemon-peel pared very
thin, boiled in them, and a little cochineal
bruised and put into a muslin Iiag: covet
them, boil them quick till they are tender


PEA
PEP
137
and of a good color; when cold, squeeze in [
the juice of two or three lemons. I
PEARS PRESERVED. Take care
in making this preserve that the fruit be not
too ripe; they are in a fit state as soon as
the pips are black. Set the pears on the
fire in a sufficient quantity of water to cover
them; take them off when quite soft, and
throw them into cold water; pare them
lightly, cut off the stalks, prick each with a
pin sufficiently long to reach the core, and
put them again into cold water, with a
handful of alum; set them on the ftre to boil
until the pears are tender, then take them out,
and put them into cold water for the third
time. Clarify and boil some sugar, put some
water to it, and when it boils, add the pears,
cover the pan, and give the whole a boil;
skim and pour it into an earthen pan and
leave it. The next day, drain the sirup
from the pears, add a little more clarified
sugar to it, and boil it again; pour it over
the fruit, and leave it as before; the next
and two successive days, proceed in the same
way, each time increasing the degree of
boiling, then add the pears, give the pre-
serve a boil (covered), skim and pour it into
a pan, and place it in a stove for two days,
then drain the fruit, and put it by for use.
PEARS STEWED. (\) Wash and prick
some large stewing pears, and set them on
the fire in a large stewing-pan of water to
scald; when scalded, take them out, and
put them on the fire in a pan with a sufficient
quantity of thin claritied sugar to cover them,
a stick of cinuamon, a little mace, and two
or three cloves; let them stew gently till
thev begin to soften and look rather red,
then put in a bottle of Port wine, and let
them continue stewing until perfectly done,
and look very rich and red; then put them
in a basin or jar, with the liquor over them;
they will be all the better for keeping four or
five days.
PEARS STEWED. (2) Pare, cut into
quarters, and take out the core of six good
baking pears; throw them as they are done
into water. To a pound of fruit allow a
quarter of a pound of brown sugar, and three
cloves; put them into a saucepan, cover
them with cold water, keep the pan closely
covered, and stew them gently, till red and
tender; add, just before serving, a glass of
Port wine. They may be eaten hot or cold,
with cream, after dinuer or at supper.
PEAS, GREEN. Young green peas,
well dressed, are among the most delicious
delicacies of the vegetable kingdom. They
must be young; it is equally indispensable
that they be fresh gathered, and cooked as
soon as they are shelled for they soon lose
both their color and sweetness. After being
shelled, wash them, drain them in a cullen-
der, put them on in plenty of boiling water,
with a tea-spoonful of salt, and one of pound-
ed loaf sugar; boil them till they become
tender, which, if young, will be in less than
half an hour; if old, they will require more
than an hour; drain them in a cullender,
and put them immediately into a dish with
a slice of fresh butter in it; some people
think it an improvement to boil a small bunch
of mint with the peas; it is then minced
finely, and laid in small heaps at the end or
sides of the dish. If peas are allowed to
stand in the water after being boiled they
lose their color.
PEAS FOR A SECOND COURSE.
Put a quart of fine green peas, together with
a bit of butter the size of a walnut, into as
much warm water as will cover them, m
which let them stand for eight or ten min-
utes. Strain off the water, put them into a
saucepan, cover it, stir them frequently, and
when a little tender, add a bunch of parsley,
and a young onion, nearly a dessert-spoonful
of loaf-sugar, and an ounce of butter mixed
with a tea-spoonful of flour; keep stirring
them now and then till the peas be tender,
and add, if they become too thick, a table-
spoonful of hot water- Before serving, take
out the onion and parsley.
PEAS PUDDING. Take a pint of
good split peas, and having washed, soak
them well in warm water; then tie them in
a cloth, put the pudding into a saucepan of
hot wafer, and boil it until quite soft. When
done, beat it up with a little butter and salt;
serve it with boiled pork or beef.
PEAS POWDER. Pound together
in a marble mortar half an mmce each of
dried mint and sage, a drachm of celery-
peed, and a quarter of a drachm of cayenue
pepper; rub them through a fine sieve. This
gives a very savory relish to peas soup, and
to water gruel, which, by its help, it' the
eater of it has not the most lively imagina-
tion, he may fancy he is sipping good peas
soup. Obs.—A drachm of allspice, or black
pepper, may lie pounded with the above as
an addition, or instead of the cayenue.
PEPPER POT. Take as much spinach
as will fill a good sized dish, put it in a
saucepan without any water, set it on the
fire, and let it boil; then drain off all the li-
quor, chop the spinach very fine, and return
it to the saucepan, with the water just drain-
ed from it, more water, onions, three or four
12*


PER
PIC
138
potatoes, a lettuce or head of endive cut
small, the bones of any cold roast meat, if
you have them, and half a pound of bacon;
put the whole on the fire, and when it has
boiled for about an hour, put in a few suet
dumplings; leave it twenty or thirty min-
utes longer; season it well with cayenue, and
serve.
PEPPER POT IN A TUREEN. Stew
gently in four quarts of water, till reduced to
three, three pounds of lieef, half a pound of
lean ham, a bunch of dried thyme, two on-
ions, two large potatoes pared and sliced;
then strain it through a cullender, and add
a large fowl, cut into joints and skinued,
half a pound of pickled pork sliced, the
meat of one lobster minced, and some small
suet dumplings, the size of a walnut. When
the fowl is well 'boiled, add half a peck of
spinach, that has been boiled and rubbed
through a cullender; season with salt and
cayenue. It is very good without the lean
ham and fowl.
PERCH BOILED. Put them into cold
water, and let them boil carefully; serve with
melted butter and soy.
PERCH BROILED. Scrape, gut, and
wash them; dry them in a cloth, dust them
with flour, and broil them. Sauce;—melted
butter. Or they may be broiled without
gutting them. They may also be stewed as
carp are done.
PERCH WITH WINE. Having scal-
ed and taken out the gills, put the perch into
a stewpan, with equal quantities of stock
and white wine, a bay-leaf, a clove of gar-
lic, a bunch of parsley and scallions, two
cloves, and some salt. When done, take
out the fish, strain off the liquor, the dregs
of which mix with some butter and a little
flour; beat these up, set them on the fire,
stirring till quite done, adding pepper, grated
nutmeg, and a ball of anchovy butter. Drain
the perch well, and dish them with the above
sauce.
PERLINGO. Take a pound and a half
of sifted flour, and having placed it on your
slab, make a hole in the middle of it, into
which put three-quarters of a pound of brown
sugar, half a pound of fresh butter, the rind
of two lemons grated, and ten eggs; knead
all these ingredients together well, until you
have a pretty firm paste; if it should be too
thin, add a handful more flour. Then cut
the paste into small pieces, each of which
roll in the palms of your hands, till they are
the length and thickness of your finger; take
a round stick (about half the diameter of your
paste), press this down on each of the
pieces, so that they may be their original
thickness on one side, and thin on the other;
when all are thus pressed, form them into
little crowns (the flat side inwards, and the
thin end uppermost), lay them on white pa-
per, and bake them in a moderate oven; in
the meanwhile, make some white sugar var-
nish or icing, and when the perlingos are
sufficiently done, dip them carefully in the
varnish, one by one; then replace them in
the oven, a minute or two, to dry.
PERRY. Perry is a pleasant and whole-
some liquor, made from the juice of pears,
by means of fermentation, somewhat in the
same manuer as cider is made from apples.
PETTITOES. Boil the feet, the liver,
and the heart, of a sucking pig, in a little
water, very gently, then split the feet, and
cut the meat very small, and simmer it with
a little of the water till the feet are perfectly
tender; thicken with a bit of butter, a little
flour, a spoonful of cream, and a little pepper
and salt; give it a boil up, pour it over a few
sippets of bread, put the feet on the mince.
PICKLE FOR MEAT. Six pounds
of salt, one pound of sugar, and four ounces
of saltpetre, boiled with four gallons of water,
skimmed, and allowed to cool, forms a very
strong pickle, which will preserve any meat
completely immersed in it. To effect this,
which is essential, either a heavy board or a
fiat stone must be laid upon the meat. The
same pickle may be used repeatedly, provided
it be boiled up occasionally with additional
salt to restore its strength, diminished by the
combination of part of the salt with the
meat, and by the dilution of the pickle by
the juices of the meat extracted. By boiling,
the albumen, which would cause the pickle
to spoil, is coagulated, and rises in the form
of scum, which must be carefully removed.
An H-bone, of ten or twelve pounds,
weight will require about three-quarters of a
pound of salt, and an ounce of moist sugar,
to be well rubbed into it. It will be ready
in four or five days, if turned and rubbed
every day.
The time meat requires salting depends
upon the weight of it, and how much salt is
used: and if it be rubbed in with a heavy
hand, it will be ready much sooner than if
only lightly rubbed.
N. B. Dry the salt, and rub it with the
sugar in a mortar.
Pork requires a longer time to cure (in
proportion to its weight) than beef. A leg
of pork should be in salt eight or ten days;
turn it and rub it every day.
Salt meat should be well washed before it


PIE 139 PIE
is boiled, especially if it has been in salt
long, that the liquor in which the meat is
boiled, may not be too salt to make soup of.
If it has been in salt a long time, and you
fear that it will be too salt, wash it well in
cold water, and soak it in luke-warm water
for a couple of hours. If it is very salt,
lay it in water the night before you intend to
dress it.
PICKLE FOR TONGUES. To four
gallons of water, add two pounds and a
half of treacle, eight pounds of salt, two
ounces of saltpetre; boil it, and skim it un-
til clear, sprinkle salt over the tongue, and
let it stand two days, wipe it clean before
you put it into the pickle, which must be quite
cold; boil the pickle, every two or three
months, adding two or three handfuls of salt,
skimming it well. Half the quantity is suf-
ficient for two tongues.
PICKLE FOR BEEF. Allow to four
gallons of water two pounds of brown sugar
and six pounds of sttlt, boil it about twenty
minutes, taking off the scum as it rises; the
following day pour it over the meat which
has been packed into the pickling-tub. Boil
it every two months, adding three ounces of
brown sugar and half a pound of common
sah. By this means it will keep good a
year. The meat must be sprinkled with
salt, and the next day wiped dry, before
pouring the pickle over it, with which it
should always be completely covered. With
the addition of two ounces of saltpetre and
one pound of salt, tiiis pickle answers for
pickled pork, hams, and tongues. The
tongues should be rubl«d with common salt,
to cleanse them, and afterwards with a little
saltpetre, and allowed to lie four or five days
before they are put into the pickle. The
meat will be ready for use in eight or ten
days, and will keep for three months.
PICKLES. Pickles ought to lie stored
in a dry 4ilace and the vessels most approv-
ed of for keeping them in, are wide-mouth-
ed glass bottles, or strong stone-ware jars,
having corks or bungs, which must be fitted
in with linen, and covered with bladder or
leather; and forsaking the pickles out and
returning them to the jar, a small wooden
spoon is kept. The strongest vinegar is
used for pickling; that of cider more partic-
ularly recommended, but sugar vinegar will
generally be found sufficiently strong. It is
essential to the excellence and Iieauty of
pickles, that they be always completely cov-
ered with vinegar.
See Hot Pickles, India Pickles, Onions,
Cucumbers, fyc. §ic. -
| deep dish, line the edge with puff paste like
a common pie; stew a quarter of a pound
of rice with some sugar until quite soft and
sweet; take a pound of ripe juicy cherries,
which pick and roll in a quarter of a pound
of powder-sugar, and lay about a quarter of
them at the bottom of the dish; cover these
with a fourth part of the rice, then the cher-
ries again, and so on till your materials are
used, taking care to keep the pie high in the
middle; cover it with a layer of puff paste,
which wash over lightly wtth some white of
egg, and strew a little powder-sugar over;
put it in a moderate oven for an hour and a
quarter; then take it out, mask the crust
with apricot marmalade, and a few maca-
roons crushed. Serve it either hot or cold.
PIE, APPLE. (1) Take eight russe-
tin^s, or lemon pippin apples; pare, core,
and cut not smaller than quarters; place
them as close as possible together into a pie-
dtsh, with four cloves; rub together in a
mortar some lemon-peel, with four ounces
of good moist sugar, and, if agreeable, add
some quince jam; cover it with puff paste;
bake it an hour and a quarter. (Generally
eaten warm).
PIE, APPLE. (2) Pare, quarter, and
core the apples; cut them into thin bits.
Put into the bottom of a pie-dish a table-
spoonful of brown sugar, with a tea-spoon-
| ful of grated ginger and lemon-peel, then
I a layer of apples, and so on alternately,
. till the dish is piled as full as it will hold.
I The next day wet the rim of the dish, line
| it with puff or tart paste, brush it with wa-
j ter, and cover it with paste; press the edge
I all round, notch it with a paste-cutter, and
make a small hole with the point of a knife
; in the middle. It may be seasoned with
two table-spoonfuls of lemon or orange mar-
malade, pounded cinuamon, mace, and
cloves, in addition to the ginger and lemon-
peel.
PIE, APPLE WITH MUSCADEL
RAISINS. Peel twenty renueting apples,
cut them in quarters, and then cut each quar-
ter into five or stx pieces; toss them in a
j pan with four ounces of sugar in powder,
; (over which should be grated the peel of a
| lemon), four ounces of butter lukewarm,
j and four ounces of fine muscadel plums.
Line the edge of a deep dish with a good
puff paste, then put in your fruit, and cover
| your dish with a good puff paste a quarter
of an inch in thickness, glaze with the white
of an egg, and strew sugar over it. Let it
bake an hour in a moderate oven, aud setve
it hot.
PIE, ANGLO-FRANCAIS. Take a
PIE, APRICOT. Line a dish with puff


140
P I E
paste, and then put in eighteen fine apricots,
(cut in halves and the stones taken out,)
with four ounces of sugar in powder, and
four ounces of butter lukewarm. Then lay
on the upper crust, glaze with the white of
eg", and strew sifted sugar all over. Let it
hake in a moderate oven to a nice light col-
or. Serve it hot. When you wish to serve
it cold, you must leave out the butter.
PIE, BEEF KIDNEY. Cut some kid-
neys into thin slices, and place them in
the Iwttoin of your pie-dish, then sweet
herbs chopped, such as parsley, thyme, shal-
lots, mushrooms, pepper, and salt; con-
tinue this till the dish is full, then cover the
whole with slices of Iktcon, then finish your
pie; bake it in the oven; when done, take
out the bacon, and skim off the fat; make a
sauce with a glass of white wine, a tolerable
quantity of cullis, and reduce it to the con-
sistence of a good sauce, then squeeze an
orange in it. Serve your pie hot.
PIE, BEEF-STEAK. Cut the steaks off
a rump, or any nice piece of beef, fat and
lean together, alwut half an inch thick; lieat
them a little with a rolling-pin, put over
them some pepper, salt, and parboiled onion
minced; roll diem up, and pack them neatly
into the dish, or lay the beef in slices; add
some spoonfuls of gravy, and a tea-spoonful
of vinegar. Cover thepie with a puff paste,
and bake it for an hour. It is a common
but mistaken opinion, that it is necessary
to put stock or water into meat pies. Beef,
mutton, veal, and pork, if not previously
dressed, will lie found to yield a sufficiency
of gravy, and the pie will be better without
any additional liquid. N. B.—Large oys-
ters, parboiled, bearded, and laid alternately
,with the steaks, their liquor reduced and
substituted instead oftlte ketchup and wine,
will he a variety.
PIE, CHICKEN. Parboil, and then
cut up neatly two young chickens; dry them;
set them over a slow fire for a few minutes;
have ready some veal stuffing or forcemeat,
lay it at the bottom of the dish, and place in
the chickens upon it, and with it some pie-
ces of dressed ham; cover it with paste.
Bake it from an hour and a half to two
hours; when sent to table, add some good
gravy, well seasoned, and not too thick.
Duck pie is made in like manner, only sub-
stituting the duck stuffing instead of the veal.
N. B.—The above may be put into a raised
French crust and baked; when done, take
off the top, and put a ragout of sweetbread .
o the chicken.
PIE, COD. Lay a fine piece of fresh I
cod in salt for several hours, then wash it!
well, season it with pepper, salt, nutmeg and
mace; place it in a dish, with a little but-
ter and some good stock. Lay a crust over,
and bake it; when done, pour in a sauce,
made as follows:—a spoonful of stock, a
quarter of a pint of cream, flour and butter,
grate in a little nutmeg and lemon-peel, and
a few oysters, boil the whole once.
PIE, COLD BEEF, VEAL, OR MUT-
TON. Pound in a mortar some boiled po-
tatoes; boil a cupful of milk, and while hot,
mix it with the potatoes, and beat them till
they become like a light paste; roll it out,
cut it with a flat dish, the size of a pie dish,
so as it may he laid from off it upon the
pie; cut the meat into slices, season it with
pepper and salt, put half a pint of gravy, wet
the edges of the dish, and put over it the
paste, and bake it till the paste be sufficiently
done. ^
PIE, DEVIZES. Cut into very thin
slices, after being dressed, cold qalPs head,
with some of the brains, pickled tongue,
sweetbreads, lamb, veal, a few slices of ba-
con, and hard-boiled eggs; put them in lay-
ers into a pie-dish, with plenty of seasoning
between each, of cayenne, white pepper,
allspice, and salt; fill up the dish with rich
gravy; cover it with a flour and water paste;
bake it in a slow oven, and when perfectly
cold, take off the crust, and turn the pie out
upon a dish; garnish it with parslev and
pickled eggs cut into slices.
PIE, DUCK. Scald a couple of ducks,
and make them very clean; cut off the feet,
pinions, necks, and heads. Take out the
gizzards, livers, and hearts; pick all clean,
and scald them. Pick out the fat of the in-
side, lay a good pufl-paste crust all over the
dish, season the ducks both inside and out,
with pepper and salt, and lay them in the
dish, w ith the giblets at each end, properly
seasoned. Put in as much water as will
nearly fill the pie, lay on the crust, fmd let it
be well baked.
PIES, EGG MINCE. Boil six eggs
until they are hard, shred them small; slned
double the quantity of suet; then add one
pound of currants picked and washed, (if
the eggs were large you must use more cur-
rants) the peel of one lemon sln ed ry fine,
and the juice, six spoonfuls of sweet wine,
mace, nutmeg, sugar, a very small quantity
of salt, orange, lemon, and citron candied.
Make a light paste for them.
PIE, FRENCH. Mince some cold roast
veal together with a little ham, season it
highly with pepper, salt, mace, and lemon.
pepl; add a large table-spoonful of mush-


PIE
PIE
141
room ketchup, and a quarter of a hundred
of oysters, with their liquor, and three or
four table-spoonfuls of rich gravy. Line a
dish with puff paste, put in the mgredients,
cover the pie, and let it remain in the oven
long enough to bake the paste.
PIE, GIBLET. Stew the giblets in a
little water, with an onion stuck with two or
three cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, some
salt, and whole pepper; cut a fowl into
joints, skin and wash it, season it with pep-
per, salt, and half an onion finely minced.
Take out the onion, herbs, and whole pep-
per; put the fowl, giblets, and gravy into a
dish, add a glass of white wine, and two ta-
ble-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup; cover
the dish with puff paste, and bake it for an
hour.
PIE, GOOSE. Prepare a very strong
raised crust, and make the sides thick and
stiff. Take the bones out of a goose, tur-
key, and fowl, cutting each down the back;
season them highly with popper, salt, mace,
cloves, and nutmeg, all finely pounded and
well mixed. Lay the goose upon a dish,
wtth the breast skin next the dish; lay in
the turkey, put some slices of boiled ham
and tongue, and then the fowl; cover it with
ltttle bits of ham or bacon. Put it all into
'the pie, made of an oval farm, and the sides
to stand an inch and a half above the meat;
put on the top, and make a hole in the cen-
tre of it. Brush the outside of the pie all
over with the beaten whites of eggs, and
bind it round with three folds of buttered
paper; paste the top over in the same way,
and when it comes out of the oven, take off
the paper, and pour in at the top, through a
funuel, a pound and a half of melted butter,
PIES, LOBSTER, See Lobster.
PIE, ITALIAN. Mix together same
chopped thyme, parsley, and one or two sage
leaves, some salt, white and cayenue pep-
per; lay into the bottom of a dish some thin
slices of lean veal, sprinkle them with the
seasoning, and add slices of ham, and a few
forcemeat balls; put a layer of seasoned
veal, and of ham and forcemeat balls, till the
dish is full, and then add the yolks of five
hard-boiled eggs, and some good white stock;
cover the dish with a puff paste, and bake
it for an hour. Before serving, pour in,
through a funnel at the centre of the crust,
a tea-cupful of rich cream.
PIES, MAIGRE FISH. Salt-fish pie.
The thickest part must be chosen, and put
in cold water to soak the night before want-
ed; then boil it well, take it up, take away
the bones and skin, and if it is good fish it
will be in fine layers; set it on a fish-drain
er to get cold: m the meantime, boil four
eggs hard, peel and slice them very thin,
the same quantity of onion sliced thin; line
the bottom of a pie-dish with fish forcemeat,
or a layer of potatoes sliced thin, then a
layer of onions, then of fish, and of eggs, and
so on till the dish is full; season each layer
with a little pcplier, then mix a tea-spoonful
of made mustard, the same of essence of an-
chovy, a little mushroom ketchup, in a giH
of water, put it in die dish, then put on the
top an ounce of fresh butter broke in bits;
cover it with puff paste, and bake it one
hour. Fresh cod may be done in the same
way, by adding a little salt. All fish for
making pies, whether soles, flounders, her-
rings, salmon, lobster, eels, trout, tench, &c.
should be dressed first; this is the most
economical way for Catholic families.
PIES, MINCE. (1) Carefully stone and
cut, but not too small, one pound and a half
of bloom raisins; cut small half a pound of
orange-peel, mince finely half a dozen of
middling-sized good apples, a quarter of a
pound of sweet almonds, pounded to a paste
with a little white wine, half a nutmeg grat-
ed, a quarter of an ounce of pepper, one
head of clove, and a little ctnuamon pound-
ed; one pound and a half of fresh beef suet.
finely minced, one pound of good brown su
gar; mix all these ingredients extremely
well, and add half a pint of white wine, and
one glass of brandy. Pack it closely into
small stone jars, and tie them over with pa-
per. When it is to be used, add a little more
wine.
PIES, MINCfi. (2) Cut the root off a
neat's tongue, rub the tongue well with salt,
let it lie four days, wash it perfectly clean,
and boil it till it becomes tender; skin, and
when cold, chop it verv finely. Mince as
small as possible two pounds of fresh beef
suet from the sirloin, stone and cut small two
pounds of bloom raisins, clean nicely two
pounds of currants, pound and sift half an
ounce of mace and a quarter of an ounce of
cloves, grate a large nutmeg; mix all these
ingredients thoroughly, together with one
pound and a half of good brown sugar.
Pack it in jars. When it is to be used, al-
low, for the quantity sufftcient to make
twelve small mince pies, five finely-minced
apples, the grated rind and juice of a large
lemon, and a wine-glass and a half of brandy;
put into each a lew bits of citron and pre-
served orange-peel. Three or four whole
green lemons, preserved in good brown su-
gar, and cut into thin slices, may be added
to the mince meat.
PIES, BRANDY, MINCE. Clean a


PIE
P I E
142
pound of currauts, mince a pound of non-
pareil apples, and one of fresh beef suet;
pound a pound of loaf sugar; weigh each
*u tirle after being prepared; ihe peel of two
lenmib* graied, and the juice of one; a quar-
tet nf a pound of citron, the same of orange-
peel minced. M i\ all these mgredieuts
well with a quart of brandy.
PIES, LEMON MINCE. Weigh one
pound of fine large lemons, cut them in half,
squeeze out the juice, and pick 'he pulp from
the skms; boil them in water till tender,
and pound them in a mortar; add half a
pound of pounded loaf sugar, the same of
nicely cleaned currauts, and of fresh beef
suet minced, a little grated nutmeg, and
citron cut small. Mix all these ingredieuts
well, and fill the patty-pans with rather more
of the mince than is usually put.
PIE, MUTTON OR VEAL. Cut iuto
chops, and trim neatly, and cut away the
greatest part of the fat of a loin, or best end
of a neck of mutton (the former the best),
season them, and lay them in a pie-dish,
with a little water and half a gill of mush-
room ketchup (chopped onion and potatoes,
if approved); cover it with paste, bake it
two hours; when done, lift up the crust from
the dish with a knife, pour out all the gravy,
let it stand, and skim it clean; add, if
wauted, some more seasoning; make it boil,
and pour it iuto the pie. Veal pie may be
made of the brisket part of the breast; but
must be parboiled first.
PIE, PIGEON OR LARK. Truss
half a dozen fine large pigeons as for stow-
ing, season them with pepper and salt; lay
at the bottom of the dish a rump-steak of
about a pound weight, cut iuto pieces and
trimmed neatly, seasoned, and beat out with
a chopper: on it lay the pigeons, the yolks
of three eggs boiled hard, and a gill of broth
or water, and over these a layer of steaks;
wet the edge of the dish, and cover it over
with puff paste, or the paste as directed for
seasoned |iies; wash it over with yolk of
egg, and ornameut it with leaves of paste and
the feet of the pigeons; hake it an hour and
a half in a moderate-heated oven: before it
is seut to table make an aperture in the lop,
and pour in some good gravy quite hot.
PIE, RAISED PORK. Make a rais-
ed crust, of a good size, about four inches
high; take the rind and chine bone from a
loin of pork, cut it iuto chops, lx;ai them
with a chopper, season them with pepper
and salt, and fill your pie; put on the top
and close it, and pinch it round the edge;
rub it over with yolk of egg, and bake it two
hours with a paper over it, to preveut the
crust from burning. When done, pour m
some good gravy, with a little ready-mixed
mustard (if approved). N. B.—As the
alwve is geneially eaten cold, h is an excel-
leut repast lor a journey, and will keep for
several days.
PIE, POTATO. Peel and slice your
potatoes very thin iuto a pie-dish; between
each layer of potatoes put a little chopped
onion (three-quarters of an ounce of onion is
sutlicieut for a pound of potatoes); between
each layer sprinkle a little pepper and salt;
put in a little water, and cut about two
ounces of fresh butter iuto little bits, and lay
them on the top: cover it close with pair
paste. It will take about an hour and a half
to bake it. N. B. The yolks of four eggs
(boiled hard) may be added; and when
baked, a table-spoonful of good mushroom
ketchup poured in through a funuel. Obs.—
Cauliflowers divided iuto mouthfuls, and
button onions, seasoned with curry-powder,
&c. make a favorite vegetable pie.
PIES, RAISED, MUTTON OR
PORK. Put two pounds and a half of flour
on the paste-board; and put on the fire, in a
saucepan, three-quarters of a piut of water,
and half a pound of good lard; when the
water boils, make a hole in the middle of
the flour, pour in the water and lard by de-
grees, geutly mixing the flour with it with
a spoon; and when it is well mixed, then
knead it with your hands till it becomes stiff:
dredge a little flour to preveut its sticking to
the board, oryou canuot make it look smooth:
do not roll it with the rolling-pin, but roll it
with your hands, about the thickness of a
(mart pot; cut it iuto six pieces, leaving a
little for the covers; put one hand in the
middle, and keep the other close on the out-
side till you have worked it either in an oval
or a round shape: have your meat ready cut,
and seasoned with pepper and salt: if pork,
cut in small slices; the griskin is the best
for pasties: if you use mutton, cut it in very
neat cutlets, and put them in the pies as you
make them; roll out the covers with the
rolling-pin just the size of the pie, wet it
round the edge, put it on the pie, and press
it together with your thumb and finger, and
then cut it all round with a pair of scissors
quite even, and pinch them inside and out,
and bake them an hour and a half.
PIE, RAISED FRENCH. Make
about two pounds of flour iuto a paste; knead
it well, and iuto the shape of a ball; press
your thumb iuto the ceutre, and work it by
degrees iuto any shape (oval or round is the
most general), till about five inches high;
put it on a sheet of paper, and fill it with
coarse flour or bran; roll out a covering fot


PIE
P I G
143
it about the same thickness as the sides; ce-
ment its sides with the yolk of egg; cut the
edges quite even, and pinch it round with the
finger and thumb, rub yolk of egg over it with
a paste-brush, and ornament it in any way
fancy may direct, with the same kind of
paste. Bake it of a fine brown color, in a
slow oven; and when done, cut out the top,
remove the flour or bran, brush it quite
cleans and fill it up with a fricassee of chick-
en, rabbit, or any other entree most conve-
nient. Send it to table with a napkin under.
PIE, HAM RAISED. Soak a small
ham four or five hours; wash and scrape it
well; cut off the knuckle, and boil it for
half an hour; then take it up and trim it verv
neatly; take off the rind and put it into an
oval stewpan, with a pint of Madeira or
Sherry, and enough veal stock to cover it.
Let it stew for two hours, or till three parts
done; take it out and set it in a cold
place; then raise a crust as in the foregoing
receipt, large enough to receive it; put in
the ham, and round it the veal forcemeat;
cover and ornament; it will take about an
hour and a half to bake in a slow oven:
when done, take off the cover, glaze the top,
and pour round the following sauce, viz. take
the liquor the ham was stewed in; skim it
free from fat; thicken with a little flour and
butter mixed together; a few drops of brown-
ing, and some cayenue pepper.
PIE, SEA. Skin and cut into joints a
large fowl; wash and lay it into cold water
k for an hour; cut some salt beef into thin
slices, and if it is very salt, soak it a short
^ time in water; make a paste of flour and
f butter in the proportion of half a pound of
butter to one of flour, cut it into round pieces
according to the size of the bottom of the
pot in which the pie is to be stewed; rub
. with butter the bottom of a round tron pot,
"and lay in a layer of the beef, seasoned with
. pepper, and finely-minced onion; then put a
tiayer of the paste, and then the fowl, highly
aaoned with pepper, onion, and a little
tlt; add another layer of paste, and pour
three pints of cold water; cover the pot
'c,osely, and let it stew gently for nearly four
| hours, taking care it does not burn, which,
i if neglected, it is apt to do. It is served in
j a pudding dish, and answers well for a family
r dinuer.
sea
isal
PIE, SQUAB, OR DEVONSHIRE.
'Take a few good baking-apples, pare, core,
iand slice them; chop some onions very
\ small; line a deep dish with paste, put in a
{layer of the apples, strew a little sugar, and
■Rune of the chopped onions over them; sea-
«on them, and lay lean mutton chops, also
wagoned, mora onions, then the apples, &c.
I
as before, and so on till the dish is qutte
full; cover, and bake the pie.
PIE, SQUASH. One pint of sq ta-h,
stewed and strained; one pint of milk, and
one of cream; ten eggs; half teacup of rose-
water; quarter pound of sugar, and one
grated nutmeg. Bake in plates lined with
puff paste.
PIE, SWEETBREAD. Parboil five
or six sweetbreads; cut them into two or
three pieces, stew them ten or fifteen minutes
in a little white stock, with some chopped
shallot, a bit of butter rolled in flour, some
salt, and white pepper, and a good many
mushrooms. Put them into a pie-dish, with
some as|xtragus tops, forcemeat balls, and
hard-boiled yolks of eggs, and slices of fat
bacon on the top; cover it, and bake it tHI
the paste be done enough; or it may be put
into a vo|-an-vent, and served upon a nap-
kin; or baked in a plate.
PIE, VEGETABLE. Of a variety of
vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, pota-
toes, artichoke bottoms, cauliflower, French
beans, peas, and small button onions, equal
quan!ities of each; half boil them in good
broth for a short time, put them into a pie
dish, cover it with puff paste, and bake it in
a slow oven; make a gravy of a bit of veal,
a slice of ham, pepper, salt, a bay leaf, mush-
rooms, shallots, parsley, and an onion; when
it luu boiled thick, strain the liquor, and mix
in three or four table-spoonfuls of cream, and
pour it into the pie before being served. The
cream may be omitted.
PIG, Is in prime order for the spit when
about three weeks old.
It loses part of its goodness every hour af-
ter it is killed; if not quite fresh, no art can
make the crackling crisp.
To be in perfection, it should be killed in
the morning to be eaten at dinuer: it requires
very caieful roasting. A sucking-pig, like
a young child, must not be left for an in-
stant.
The ends must have much more fire than
the middle: for this purpose is contrived an
iron to hang before the middle part, called a
pig-iron. If you have not this, use a com-
mon flat iron, or keep the fire ftercest at the
two ends.
For the stuffing, take of the crumb of a
stale loaf about five ounces; rub it through a
colander; mince fine a handful of sage (i. e.
about two ounces), and a large onion (about
an ounce and a half). Mix these together
with an egg, some pepper and salt, and a bit
of butter as big as an egg. Fill the belly of
the pig with this, and sew it up: lay it to
the fire, and baste it with salad oil till it is


FIG
PIG
144
quite done. Do not leave it a momeut: it
requires the most vigilaut attendance.
Roast it at a clear, brisk fire at some dis-
tance. To gain the praise of epicurean pig-
eaters, the crackling must be nicely crisped
and delicately lightly browned, without be-
ing either blistered or burnt.
A small, three weeks old pig will be done
enough in about an hour and a half.
Before you take it from the fire, cut off the
bead, and part that and the body down the
middle: chop the brains very line, with some
boiled sage leaves, and mix them with good
veal gravy, or beef gravy, or what runs from
the pig when you cut its head off. Send up
a tureenful of gravy besides. Curraut sauce
is still a favorite with some of the old school.
Lay your pig back to back in the dish,
with one half of the head on each side, and
the ears one at each end, which you must
take care to make nice and crisp; or you
will get scolded, and deservedly, as the silly
fellow was who bought his wife a pig with
only one ear.
When you cut off the pettitoes, leave the
skin long round the ends of the legs. When
you first lay the pig before the fire, rub it all
over with fresh butter or salad oil: ten
minutes after, and the skin looks dry;
dredge it well with flour all over, let it re-
main on an hour, then rub it off with a soft
cloth.
N. B. A pig is a very troublesome subject
to roast; most persons have them baked.
Send a quarter of a pound of butter, and beg
the baker to baste it well.
PIG, BAKED. Lay your pig in a dish,
flour it well all over, then rub it over with
butter; butter the dish you lay it in, and put
it iuto the oven. When done enough, take
it out, and rub it over with a butter cloth;
then put it again iuto the oven till it is dry,
then take it out and lay it in a dish; cut it
up, take a little veal gravy, and take oft' the
fat in the dish it was baked in, and there
will be some good gravy at the bottom; put
that to the veal gravy, with a little bit of but-
ter, rolled in flour; boil it up, and put it in
a dish in which the pig has been laid, and
put the brains with some sage iuto the belly.
Some persons like a pig to be brought to
table whole, in which case you are only to
put what sauce you like iuto the dish.'
PIG, BARBICUED. Scald, &c., a pig,
of about nine or ten weeks old, the same as
for roasting; make a stuffing with a few
sage-leaves, the liver of the pig, and two an-
chovies boned, washed, and cut extremely
small; put them into a mortar, with some
bread-crumbs, a quarter of a pound of butter,
a very little cayenue pepper, and half a piut
of Madeira wine; beat tiient to a paste, and
sew it up m the pig; lay it at a good distance
before a large brisk fire; singe it well; put
two bottles of Madeira wine iuto the drip-
ping-pan, and keep bastmg it all the time it
is roasting; when half done, put two French
rolls iuto the drippingpan; and if there is not
wine enough in the drippingpan, add more:
when the pig is nearly done, take the rolls
and sauce, and put them iuto a saucepan,
with an anchovy cut small, a bunch of sweet
herbs, and the juice of a lemon; take up the
pig, send it to table with an apple in its
mouth, and a roll on each side; then strain
the sauce over it.
Some barbicue a pig of six or seven weeks
old, and stick it all over with blanched al-
monds, and baste it in the same manuer with
Madeira wine.
PIG, TO COLLAR. Cut off the feet,
head, and tail; bone and wash it well, and
dry it in a cloth. Season it highly with a
quautity of pepper and salt; roll it up firmly,
and bind it with a piece of linen; sew it
tightly. Put it on in boiling water, with the
bones, let it boil for an hour, then put it un-
der a weight to press till it be cold, and take
off the cloth.
PIG'S CHEEK, TO COLLAR. Strew
over a pig's face,and a neat's or pig's tongue,
a little salt and saltpetre; let it stand eight
or nine days, then boil them with two cow-
heels, till all be sufficieutly tender to admit
of the bones being taken out; lay upon a
dish a piece of strong cloth, put the cheek
upon it with the rind downwards; season it
highly with pepper, cloves, and a little salt;
add the tongue and cow-heels, with more
seasoning; roll and sew it up firmly, put it
iuto a jar and boil it for two hours, then
press it with a heavy weight, and when cold
take off the cloth. The cow-heel may he
omitted, and both cheeks used.
PIG'S CHEEK, TO CURE. Strew
salt over it, and let it lie two or three days,
then pour over it the following mixture when
it is cold; half a pound of bay salt, half an
ounce of saltpetre, a quarter of a pound of
coarse brown sugar, one handful of common
sait, and a penuy-worth of cochineal, boiled
in a piut of strong beer or porter; let it lie
in the pickle a fortnight, turning it daily,
then hang it to smoke for a week. When
to be dressed, put it iuto lukewarm water to
soak for a night, and in dressing it, follow
the directions given for boiling hams,
PIG'S FEET AND EARS PICKLED
Wash the feet and ears very clean, and be-
tween every foot put a bay-feaf; when they
are well soaked, add some cloves, mace, co
riander-seed, and ginger; put a bottle ot


PIG
PIG
145
white wine to three pair of feet and ears,
some bay-leaves, a bunch of sweet herbs;
let them boil gently till they are tender, then
take them out of the liquor, lay them in an
earthen pan; when cold, take off the fat,
and strain the liquor over them. They eat
well cold, or warmed in the jelly, thickened
with butter rolled in flour; or take the ieet and
ears out of the jelly, dip them in yolk of egg,
and then in crumbs of bread, and brotl them,
or fry them in butter; lay the ears in the
middle, and the feet round: or ragout them.
PIG'S FEET AND EARS SOUSED.
Clean them, and boil them till they are ten-
der; then split the feet, and put them and
the ears in salt and water. When you use
them, dry them well in a cloth, dip them in
batter, fry them, and send them to table with
molted butter in a boat. They may be eaten
cold, and will keep a considerable time.
PIG'S FEET, TO STEW. Clean them
well, and boil them till they are tender.
Brown some butter with flour, and add it to
a quantity of grctvy or water sufficient to
stew the feet in. Season with a minced
onion, three sage leaves, salt, and black pep-
per. Cut the feet in two, add them, and
cover the pan closely; let them stew half an
hour. A little before serving, mix in half
a table-spoonful of lemon pickle or vinegar,
and pick out the sage leaves.
PIG'S HARSLET. (1) Parboil the liver
and lights, slice and fry them along with thin
bits of bacon. Garnish with fried parsley.
PIG'S HARSLET. (2) Wash and dry
some ltvers, sweetbreads, and some fat and
lean pieces of pork, beating the latter with
a rolling-pin to make them tender; season
with pepper, salt, and sage, and a little onion
shredded fine; when mixed, put all into a
cawl, and fasten it tight with a needle and
thread, and roast it by a jack, or by a string.
Or, serve in slices, with parsley, for a fry.
Seive with a sauce of Port wine and water,
and mustard, just boiled up, and put it into
a dish.
PIG'S HEAD COLLARED. Very
nicely scour the head av.d ears; take off the
hair and snout, and take out the eyes and
brain; let it lay for one night in water; then
drain it; salt it extremely well, with com-
mon salt and saltpetre, and let it lie for live
days. Boil it sufftciently to take out the
bones; then lay it on a dresser, turning the
thick end of one side of the head towards the
thick end of the other, to make the roll of an
equal size; sprinkle it well with salt and
white pepper, and roll it with the ears; and,
if you think proper, put the pig's feet round
the outside, when boned, or the thin parti
nf a couple of cow-heels. Put it into a cloth,
bind with a broad tape, and boil it ;tll quite
tender; then put it under a weight, and do
not take off the covering until it is quite coK,
If you wish it to be more like brawn, salt it
longer, and let the proportion of saltpetre Iie
greater, and put in also some pieces of lean
pork, and then cover it with cow-heel, to
look like the horn. This may be kept either
in or out of pickle of salt and water, boiled
with vinegar. If likely to spoil, slice and fry
it, either with or without batter.
PIG'S HEAD, TO POT. Split the
head of a small pig, take out the brains, cut
off the ears, and let it lie in cold water for
one day, then boil it till all the bones come
out; take off the skin, keeping it as whole
as possible. Chop the tongue and all tlre
meat while it is hot; season it highly with
pepper, salt, and nutmeg; |dace part of the
skin at the bottom of a potting-pan or bowl,
ltiy in the chopped meat, and put the rest of
the skin over the top; press it down hard,
place a small plate upon it, put on that a
heavy weight, which must notbe taken off
till it be perfectly cold. Boil up part of the
liquor with some vinegar and salt, and keep
the head in tIhs pickle. It may be served
for breakfast or luncheon, and is eaten with
vinegar and mustard.
PIG'S HEAD AND FEET, SOUSED.
Clean them extremely well and boil them;
take for sauce part of the liquor, and add
vinegar, lime or lemon jutce, salt, cayenue,
and pepper; put in, either cut down or
whole, the head and feet; boil all together
for an hour, and pour it into a deep dish.
It is eaten cold wtth mustard and vinegar.
PIG'S KIDNEYS, AND SKIRTS.
Clean and wash them very nicely, cut the
kidneys across, and the skirts into small
square bits; fry them a light brown in beef
dripping, brown a bit of butter the size of a
walnut, with a little flour, and add as much
boiiing water as may be required of gravy,
and an onion minced small. Add the meat,
a little pepper, salt, and mushroom ketchup,
and let it stew till tender,
PIGEONS. Pigeons should be extreme-
ly fresh; when so, and in good order, they
are plump and fat at the vent, and their feet
pliable; but when they are stale, the vent is
open, green, and withered. Tame pigeons
are considered preferable to the wild.
PIGEONS WHOLE, TO BROIL.
Clean them well, cut off the wings and neck,
leaving skin enough at the neck to tie; make
a forcemeat with bread crumbs, three or fout


PIG
FIK
146
oJ the livers, one anchovy, some parsley
minced, and a quarter of a pound of butter;
season with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg,
bind it with tlte yolk of an egg beaten up, and
1 - . n into each pigeon a piece the size of a large
walnut; tie the neck and rump, rub them
with butter, and dust them with peplier, salt,
and nutmeg mixed; broil them over a slow
fire; to baste them, put them upon a plate,
and with a leather brush them over with but-
ter; broil them of a nice brown color; serve
them with melted butter and parsley, or a
thickened brown gravy.
PIGEON PIE. Chop some parsley and
femon thyme, with a few mushrooms; stew
these in a little butter, into which put half a
dozen young pigeons, with pepper and salt
in their insides, and their legs turned in;
stew them for a few minutes and turn them;
when they begin to fry, put in sufficient con-
somme to cover them, in which let them stew
till they are well done; take them from the
fire to cool; in the meantime make a good
puff paste, part of which roll out, and place
round the edge of a dish; lay the pigeons in
with the yolks of four eggs, boiled hard, and
pour over them half of the liquor they were
stewed in; add a little pepper and salt, then
lay on the top paste, trimming it neatly
round, the same as you would any other pie;
on the top form a star of leaves, with a hole
in the centre; egg tt lightly over, and put it
to bake in a moderate oven, taking care that
it has not too much color; when done, add
to the liquor that remained from the pigeons,
a little butter sauce, make it very hot, and
pour it on the pie. Serve it hot, either for
a remove or side dish.
PIGEONS WITH RICE and Par-
mesan CHeeSE. Pick and wash clean
half a dozen nice pigeons, cut them into quar-
ters; brown some butter with flour, add to
it a pint of good stock, with three grated
onions, some pepper and salt, stew the pig-
eons in this till tender, take them out and
mix in the juice of one lemon, boil and strain
the sauce over the pigeons. Boil about three-
quarters of a pound of whole rice in a pint
and a half of stock, with half a pound of fresh
butter, some grated nutmeg and salt; when
it is tender, add two handfids of grated Par-
mesan cheese. Put more than lnlf of the
rice equally round the dish in which the pig-
eons are placed, and cover them with what
remains, brush it over with a well-beaten
egg, and then strew it thickly with more
Parmesan; cover a flat baking-tin with salt,
place the dish upon this, and bake it for nearly
three-quarters of an hour in a slow oven; it
should be of a line gold color.
PIGEONS, TO ROAST. Pick, clean,
singe, and wash them well; truss them with
three feet on, and put into them some pepper
and salt. While roasting, baste them with
butter. A little before serving, dust them
with flour, and froth them with butter.
Roast them for half an hour. Serve thena
with parsley and butter in the dish, or make
a gravy of the giblets, some minced parsley,
seasoned with pepper and salt. Thicken
with a little flour and butter; pour it with
the giblets into the dish, and then put in the
pigeons.
PIGEONS, STEW. (1) Clean them nice-
ly, truss them as for boiling, put into their it-
side some pepper and salt; brown in a sauce-
pan three ounces of butter with a table-spoon-
ful of flour, add as much gravy or water as will
nearly cover the pigeons, put them in with
the livers, gizzards, and pinions, salt, and
some minced parsley, spinach may also be
added; let them stew for three-quarters of
an hour; add, a few minutes before serving,
the yolks of four or six hard-boiled eggs.
PIGEONS,STEW. (2) Wash and clean
six pigeons, cut them into quarters, and put
all their giblets with them into a stewpan, a
piece of butter, a little water, a bit of lemon-
peel, two blades of mace, some chopped pars-
ley, salt, and pepper; cover the pan closely,
and stew them till they I« tender; thicken
the sauce with the yolk of an egg beaten up
with three table-spoonfuls of cream and a bit
of butter dusted with flour; let them stew
ten minutes longer before serving.
PIKE, BAKED. Scrape the scales off
a large pike, take out the gills, and clean it,
without breaking the skin; stuff the fish
with a forcemeat made of two handfuls of
grated bread, one of finely-minced suet, some
chopped parsley, and a little fresh butter,
seasoned with pepper, salt, mace, grated
lemon-peel and a nutmeg, pounded all togeth-
er in a mortar, with two whole eggs. Fasten
the tail of the pike into its mouth with a
skewer, then dip it, first into a well-beaten
egg, and then into grated bread, which repeat
twice; baste it over with butter, and lake
it in an oven.
If two of them are to be served, make one
of them of a green color, by mixing a quan-
tity of finely-minced parsley with the grated
bread. When the fish is of a fine brown
color, cover it with paper until it is done.
Serve with a Dutch sauce in a sauce-tureen.
PIKE, BOILED. Wash clean, and
take out the gills; stuff them with tlte follow-
ing forcemeat : equal parts of chopped oys-
ters, grated bread crumbs, beef suet, or butter,
two anchovies, a little onion, pepper, salt;
I nutmeg, minced parsley, tweet marjoram,


P 01
POR
147
thyme, and savory; an egg to bind it. Stuff
the in sides, and sew them up; put them on
in boiling salt-and-water, with a glass of vin-
egar, and let them boil half an hour. Sauces;
—oyster, and melted butter. They may
also be broiled.
PILLAU, TO MAKE. Wash very
clean two pounds of riee, stew it till per-
fectly tender with a little water, half a
pound of butter, some salt, whole pepper,
cloves and mace, and keep the stewpan
closely covered; boil two fowls and one
pound and a half of bacon, put the bacon in
the middle, and the fowls on each side, cov-
er them all over with the rice, and garnish
with hard-boiled eggs and fried whole
onions.
PLOVERS, TO CHOOSE. Choose
them by the hardnQss of the vent, which
shows that they are fat; and when new,
they are limber-footed. In other respects,
choose them by the same marks as other
fowls. There are three sorts; the gray,
green, and bastard plover or lapwing.
PLOVERS, TO DRESS. Green plov-
ers should be dressed the same as wood-
cocks, without drawing, and served on a
toast. Gray plovers should be stewed.—
Make a forcemeat with the yolks of two
hard eggs bruised, some marrow cut fine,
artichoke bottoms cut small,- and sweet
herbs, seasoned with pepper, salt, and nut-
meg: staff the birds, and put them into a
saucepan, with just a sufficient quantity of
good gravy to cover them, one glass of
white wine, and a blade of mace; cover
them close, and let them stew very gently
till they are tender; then take up the plov-
ers, lay them in a dish, keep them hot; put
a piece of butter rolled in flour, to thicken
the sauce, let it boil till smooth; squeeze
into it a little lemon; skim it, Lid pour it
over the plovers.
POINT DE JOUR FRITTERS. Mix
with two handfuls of flour a glass of sweet
wine, a table-spoonful of brandy, and warm
milk, sufficient to make it into a paste; add
the well-beaten whites of four eggs, a little
minced citron, candled orange-peel or cur-
rants; beat it well together, and drop it
through a wide tin funuel, into boiling lard.
Serve with pounded loaf sugar strewed over
them.
POIVRADE. Put into a stewpan a
large bunch of pars ley-leaves, some scalRons,
two bay-leaves, a little thyme, a dessert-
spoonful of fine vhite pepper, a glass of
vinegar, and a small quantity of butter; set
the pan on the fire, and reduce the whole
till nearly all gone, when add two ladlefula
of espagnole, and one of stock; reduce
these again to the proper consistence, and
strain it for use.
PORK. Datry-fed pork is the best;
the flesh should look white and smooth, and
the fat be white and fine. In preparing a
hog for bacon, the ribs are cut, with a very
little flesh on them, from the side, which
has the fore and hind leg attached to it;
the hind leg is then called a gammon of ba-
con, but it is generally reserved for a ham.
On each side there ts a large span,- rib,
which is usually divided into two, one call-
ed the sweet bone, the other the blade bone.
There are also griskins, chine, or back
bone.
Hog's lard is the inuer fat of the bacon
hog.
Porkers are not so old as hogs; they
make excellent pickled pork, but are cho-
sen more particularly for roasting.
To roast a leg, a small onion is minced
together with three sage leaves, seasoned
with pepper and salt, and put under the
skin at the knuckle bone; the skin is cut
into strips nearly ha.f an inch apart, and
rubbed over with a bit of butter. If weigh-
ing seven or eight pounds, it will require
nearly three hours to roast.
A spare rib should be roasted, is basted
with butter, and has sage leaves dried, rub-
bed to a powder, and mixed with salt and
pepper, sprinkled over it.
Both a loin and neck are jointed, the
skin scored in narrow strips, and rubbed
with butter. If weighing six or seven
pounds, it will require rather more than two
hours to roast.
A griskin may be either broiled or roast-
ed.
A chine is stuffed here and there with
bread crumbs, mixed with a little butter,
and seasoned with some finely shred sage,
parsley, and thyme, some pepper and salt.
The skin is cut into strips and rubbed with
butter; it is then roasted, and served with
apple sauce, as are also the preceding
roasts.
A porker's head is stuffed like a sucking
pig, sewed firmly, and hung on a string to
roast.
The shoulder may be roasted, but, being
very fat, it is generally preferred pickled.
The breast may be made into a pie, or
broiled.
To boil hams, they should be put on in
water, the chill taken off, and simmered for
four or five hours, taking care not to allow
them to boil.
The prime season for pork is from No-
vember to March.
Take particular care it be done enough:


P OR
POR
148
other meats under-done are unpleasant, but I
pork is absolutely uneatable; the sight of it
ts enough to appal the sharpest appetite, iti
its v has the leaat tint of redne.-s.
Ilt: careful of the crackling; if this he |
nut crisp, or if it Iw latnted, y,fit will be!
M'uldcd. Pickled Pork, taken more time
than any other meat. If you buy your pork
ready salted, auk how many days it has
been in salt; if many, it will require to be
soaked in water for six hours before you
dress it. When you cook it, wash and
scrape it as clean as possible; when deli-
cately dressed, it is a favorite dish with al-
most everybody. Take care it does not
boil fast; if it does, the knuckle will break
to pteces, before the thick part of the meat
is warm through; a leg of seven pounds
takes three hours imd a half very slow sim-
mering. Skim your |wt very carefully, and
when you take the meat out of the boiler,
8cralie it clean.
A leg of nice pork, nicely salted, and
nicely boiled, is as fine a cold relish as cold
ham; esliecially if, instead of cutting into
the middle when hot, and so letting out
its juices, you cut it at the knuckle: slices
broiled are a good luncheon, or supper.
Mem.—Some persons who sell pork ready
salted have a silly trick of cutting the knuc-
kle in two; we suppose that this is done to
save their salt; bt:t it lets all the gravy out
of the leg; and unless you boil your pork
merely far the sake of the |wt-liquor, which
in this case receives all the goodness and
strength of the meat, friendly reader, your
oracle cautions you to buy no leg of pork
which is slit at the knuckle.
If pork h not done enough, nothing is more
disagreeable; if too much, it not only loses
its color and flavor, but its substance be-
comes soft like a jelly.
It must never appear at table without pars-
nips; they are an excellent vegetable, and
deserve to be much more popular; or carrots,
turnips, and greens, or mashed potatoes, Sec.
Obs.—Remember not to forget the mus-
tard-pot.
PORK, LEG, Of eight pounds, will re-
quire about three hours: score the skins across
in narrow stripes (some score it in dia-
monds), about a quarter of an inch apart;
stuff the knuckle with sage and onion, minced
fine, and a little grated bread, seasoned with
pepper, salt, and the yolk of an egg.
Do not put it too near the fire : rub a little
sweet oil on the skin with a paste-brush, or
a goose-feather: this makes the crackling
crisper and browner than basting it with
dripping; and it will be a better color than
all the art of cookery can make it in any
other way; and this is the best way of pre-
I venting the skin from blistering, which is
principally occasioned by its bemg put too
near the fire.
PORK Spare Rib, Usually weighs about
eight or nine pounds, and will take from two
to three hours to roast it thoroughly; not ex-
actly according to its weight, but the thick-
ness of the meat upon it which varies very
much. Lay the thick end nearest to the
fire.
A proper bald spare rih of eight pounds
weight (so called because almost all the meat
is pared off), with a steady fire, will be done
in an hour and a quarter. There is so little
meat on a bald spare rib. that if you have a
large, fierce fire, it will be burned before it
is warm through. Joint it nicely, and crack
the ribs across as you do ribs oi lamb.
When you put it down to roast, dust cj
some flour, and baste it .vith a little butter;
dry a dozen sage leaves, and rub them through
a hair-sieve, and put them into the top of a
dredging-box; and about a quarter of an hour
before tbe meat is done, baste it with butter;
dust with the pulverized sage.
Obs.—Make it a general rule never to
pour gravy over any thing that is roasted;
by so doing, the dredging, &c. is washed off,
and it eats insipid.
Some people cane a spare rib by cutting
out in slices the thick part at the bottom ol
the bones. When this meat is cut away,
the bones may be easily separated, and are
esteemed very sweet picking.
Apple sauce, mashed potatoes, and good
mustard are indispensable.
PORK CHEESE. Choose the head of
a small pig which may weigh about twelve
pounds the quarter. Sprinkle over it and
the tongues of four pigs, a little common salt
and a very ltttle saltpetre. Let them lie
four days, wash them, and tie them in a clean
cloth; boil them until the bones will come
easily out of the head, take off the skin as
whole as possible, place a bowl in hot water
and put in the head, cutting it into small
pieces. In the bottom of a round tin, shaped
like a small cheese, lay two strips of cloth
across each other, they must be long enough
to fold over the top when the shape is full,
place the skin round the tin,and nearly half
fill it with the meat, which has been highly
seasoned with pepper, cayenue and salt; put
in some tongue cut into slices, then the rest of
the meat and the remainder of the tongue,
draw the cloth tightly across the top; put on
it a board or a plate that will fit into the shape,
and place on it a heavy weight, which must
not be taken off till it be quite cold. It is
eaten with. vinegar and mustard, and served
for luncheon or supper.


POT
POT
149
POTATOES. The vegetable kingdom
affords no food more wholesome, more easily
procured, easily prepared, or less expensive,
than the potato : yet, although this most useful
vegetable is dressed almost every day, in
almost every family, for one plate of potatoes
that comes to table as it should come, ten are
spoiled.
Wash them, but do not pare or cut them,
unless they are very large. Fill a saucepan
half full of potatoes of equal size (or make
them so by dividing the larger ones), put to
them as much cold water as will cover them
about an inch: they are sooner boiled, and
more savory, than when drowned in water.
Most boiled things are spoiled by having too
little water, but potatoes are often spoiled by
too much : they must merely be covered, and
a little allowed for waste in boiling, so that
they may be just covered at the finish.
Set them on a moderate fire till they boil;
then take them off, and put them by the side
of the fire to simmer slowly till they are soft
enough to admit a fork (place no dependence
on the usual test of their skinsi cracking,
which, if they are boiled fast, will happen to
some potatoes when they are not half done, and
the insides quite hard), '|'hen pour the wa-
ter off (tf you let the potatoes remain in the
water a moment after they are done enough,
they will become waxy and watery), uncover
the saucepan, and set it at such a distance
from the fire as will secure it from burning;
their superfluous moisture will evaporate, and
the potatoes will be perfectly dry and mealy.
You may afterward place a napkin, folded
up to the size of the saucepan's diameter,
over the potatoes, to keep them hot and
mealy till wanted.
This method of managing potatoes is in
every respect equal to steaming them; and
they are dressed in half the time.
There is such an infinite variety of sorts
and sizes of potatoes, that it is impossible to
say how long they wtll take doing: the best
way is to try them with a fork. Moderate-
sized potatoes will generally be done enough
in fifteen or twenty minutes.
POTATOES, NEW. The best way to
clean new potatoes is to rub diem with a
coarse cloth or flanuel, or scrubbing-brush.
New potatoes are poor, watery, and insip-
id, till they are full two inches in diameter:
they are not worth the trouble of boiling be-
fore midsummer day.
Obs. Some cooks prepare sauces to pour
over potatoes, made with butter, salt, and
pepper, or gravy, or melted butter and ketch-
up; or stew the potatoes in ale, or water
seasoned with pepper and salt; or bake them
with herrings or sprats, mixed with layers
uf potatoes, seasoned with pepper, salt, sweet
herbs, vinegar, and water; or cut mutton or
beef into slices, and lay them in a stewpan,
and on them potatoes and spices, then anoth-
er layer of the meat alternately, pourk,g in
a little water, covering it up very close, and
boiling it slowly. -
POTATO BALLS. Mix mashed pota-
toes with the yolk of an egg; roll them into
balls; hour them, or egg and bread-crumb
them; and fry them in clean drippings, or
brown them in a Dutch oven.
POTATO BALLS RAGOUT, Are
made by adding to a pound of potatoes a
quarter of a pound of grated ham, or some
sweet herbs, or chopped parsley, an onion or
eschalot, sait, pepper, and a little grated
nutmeg, or other spice, with the yolk of a
couple of eggs : they are then to be dressed
as Potato Balls.
Obs. An agreeable vegetable relish, and
a good supper-dish.
POTATOES BOILED, T6 BROIL.
After boiling potatoes not quite sufficiently to
send to table, put them on a gridiron over a
clear fire, and turn them frequently till they are
of a nice brown color all over; serve them
hot; take care they do not become too hard,
as that spoils the flavor.
POTATOES, CASSEROLE. Boil and
peel some good mealy potatoes, pound them,
and mix with them some butter, cream, and
a little salt, put them about an inch and a
half high upon a flat dish, and leave an open-
ing in the centre; bake them of a light brown
color, and take out as much from the centre
as will admit of a ragout, fricassee, or mac-
aroni, being put into it.
POTATOES, COLCANNON. Boil
potatoes and greens, or spinage, separately;
mash the potatoes; squeeze the greens dry;
chop them quite fine and mix them with the
potatoes, with a little butter, pepper, and
salt; put it into a mould, buttering it well
first; let it stand in a hot oven for ten min-
utes.
POTATO CROQUETTES. When
boiled and peeled, allow four large mealy
potatoes, half their weight of butter and of
pounded loaf sugar, two eggs beaten, half
the grated peel ofa lemon, and a little salt;
pound the potatoes in a mortar with the
other ingredients; beat the yolks of four
eggs; roll up the croquettes; dip them into
the beaten eggs, and roll them in sifted bread
crumbs; in an hour, roll them again as be-
fore, and fry them in butter; put them upon
the back of a sieve before the fire to drain.
POTATO EGGS. Mash perfectly
13*


POT
POT
150
smooth six or seven boiled potatoes, add a
piece of butter the size of a walnut, the bea-
ten yolk of an egg, half an onion pounded,
a little boiled minced parsley, some pepper
and salt; make it into the form of small
eggs or pears, roll them into a well-lieatcn
e-^, and then into grated bread seasoned,
with peplx:r and salt; fry lltem in plenty of
tn d or dripping till they are of a fine brown
color, lay them before the fire to drain;
serve them with a fringe of fried parsley.
POTATOES FRIED IN SLICES
OR RIBBONS. Peel large potatoes; slice |
them alxwt a quarter of an inch thick, or
cut them in shavings round and round, as
you woul.l peel a lemon; drv them well in a
clean cloth, and fry them in lard or dripping.
Take care that your fat and frying-pan are
quite clean; put tt on a quick fire, watch it,
and as soon as the lard boils, and is still,
put in the slices of potato, and keep moving
them till they are crisp. Take them up,
and lav them to drain on a sieve :send them
up with a very little salt sprinkled over them.
POTATOES FRIED WHOLE. When
nearly boiled enough, put them into a stew-
pan with a bit of butter, or some nice clean
beef-drippings; shake them about often (for
fear of burning them), till they are brown
and crisp; drain them from the fat. Obs.—
It will be an elegant improvement previous
to frying or broiling the potatoes, to flour
them and dip them in the yolk of an egg,
and then roll them in fine-sifted bread-
crumbs; they will then deserve to be called
POTATOES FULL dRESSEd.
POTATOES RAW OR COLD, TO
FRY. Wash, peel, and put them into cold
water for one or two hours, cut them into
slices a I wu l half an inch thick, and fry them
a light brown in boiling clarified beef suet.
Cold boiled potatoes, cut in slices, may be
dune in the same manuer.
POTATO FRITTERS. Peel, and
pound in a mortar, :-ix mealy potatoes, with
a little salt, a glass of white wine, some
pounded sugar, cinuamon, and an ounce of
butter; roll it out with a littlu flour, cut
them the size of a wine glass, and fry them
in boiling clarifted dripping. Serve them
with sifted loaf sugar over them.
POTATOES, MASHED. (1) When
your potatoes are thoroughly boiled, drain
them quite drv, pick out every speck, Sec. and
while hot, rub them through a colander into
a clean stewpan. To a pound of potatoes
put about half an ounce of butter, and a ta-
ble spoonful of milk: do not make them too
moist; mix them w,ll together. Obs.—
When the potatoes are getting old and
specky, and in frosty weather, this is the
best way of dressing them. You may put
them into-shal.es or small tea-cups; egg
them with yolk of egg, and brown them very
slightly before a slow fire.
POTATOES, MASHED. (2) Boil the
potatoes, peel and mash them very smoothly;
put for a large dish four ounces of butter,
two eggs beat up in half a pint of good milk,
and some salt; mix them well together,
heap it upon a dish witb a table-spoon to
give it a rough and rocky appearance, or
put it on a dish and score it with a knife,
dip a brush or feather into melted butter,
and brush over the top lightly; put it into
a Dutch oven, and let it brown gradually
for an hour or more. To mash potatoes in
a plain way, mix with them two ounces of
butter, half a pint of milk, and a little salt.
When mashed potatoes are not browned, it
is a great improvement to add pepper, salt,
and one onion minced as finely as possible;
heat the potatoes in a saucepan, and serve
them hot.
POTATOES, ROASTED. Wash and
dry your potatoes, (all of a size), and put
them in a tin Dutch oven, or cheese-toaster:
take care not to put them too near the fire,
or they will get burned on the outside before
they are warmed through. Large potatoes
will require two hours to roast them.
N. B. To save time and trouble, some
cooks half boil them first. This is one of
the best opportunities the baker has to
rival the cook.
POTATOES ROASTED UNDER
MEAT. Half boil large potatoes, drain the
water from them, and putthem into an earth-
en dish, or small tin pan, under meat that is
roasting, and baste them with some of the
dripping: when they are browned on one
stde, turn them and brown the other; send
them up round the meat, or in a small dish.
POTATOES SCALLOPED. Mash po-
tatoes as directed, then butter some nice
clean scollop-shells, patty-pans, or tea-cups
or saucers; put in your potatoes; make
them smooth at the top; cross a knife over
them; strew a few fine bread-crumbs on
them: sprinkle them with a paste-brush
with a few drops of melted butter, and then
set them in a Dutch oven; when they are
browned on the top, take them carefully out
of the shells, and brown the other side.
POTATO SNOW. The potatoes must
be free from spots, and the whitest you can
pick out; put them on in cold water; when
they begin to crack, strain the water from


POT
POU
151
them, and put them into a clean stcwpan by
the side of the fire till they are quite dry,
and fall to pieces; rub them through a wire
sieve on the dish they are to be sent up in,
and do not disturb them afterward.
POT POURRI. Gather, when perfect-
ly dry, a peck of roses; pick off the leaves,
and strew over them three-quarters of a
pound of common salt; let them remain
two or three days, and if any fresh flowers
are added, some more salt should be sprin-
kled over them. Mix with the roses half a
pound of finely-pounded bay salt, the same
quantity of allspice, of cloves, and of brown
sugar, a quarter of a pound of gum-benja-
min, and two ounces of orris-root; add a
glass of brandy, and any sort of fragrant
flower, such as orange and lemon flowers,
rosemary, and a great quantity of lavender
flowers—also white lilies: a green orange
stuck with cloves may be added. All the
flowers must be gathered perfectly dry.
POTTING BEEF, VEAL, GAME, or
POULTRY. Take three pounds of lean
gravy lieef, rub it well with an ounce of
saltpetre, and then xa handful of common
salt; let it lie in salt for a couple of days,
rubbing it well each day; then put it into
an earthen pan or stone jar that will just
hold it; cover it with the skin and fat that
you cut off, and pour in half a pint of wa-
ter; cover it close with paste, and set it in
a very slow oven for about four hours.
When it comes from the oven, drain the
gravy from it into a basin; pick out the gris-
tles and the skins; mince it fine; moisten it
with a little of the gravy you poured from
the meat, which is a very strong consomme
(but rather salt), and it will make excellent
pease soup, or browning; pound the meat
patiently and thoroughly in a mortar with
some fresh butter, till it is a fine paste (to
make potted meat smooth there is nothing
equal to plenty of elbow-grease); seasoning
it by degrees, as you are beating it, with
a little black pepper and allspice, or cloves
pounded, or mace, or grated nutmeg.
Put it in pots, press it down as close as
possible, and cover it a quarter of an inch
thick with clarified butter; and if you wish
to preserve it a long time, over that tie a
bladder. Keep it in a dry place.
You may mince a little ham or bacon, or
an anchovy, sweet or savory herbs, or an
eschalot, and a little tarragon, chervil, or
burnet, &c., and pound them with the meat,
with a glass of wine, or some mustard, or
forcemeat.
It is a very agreeable and economical
way of using the remains of game or poul-
try, or a large joint of either roasted or
boiled beef, veal, ham, or tongue, &c. to
mince it with: some of the fat, or moisten
it with a little butter, and beat it in a mor-
tar with the seasoning, &c.
Meat that has been boiled down for
gravies, &c. (which has heretofore been
considered, the perquisite of the cat) and is
completely drained of all tts succulence, beat
in a mortar with salt and a little ground
black pepper and allspice, as directed in
the foregoing receipt, and it will make as
good potted Iieef as meat that has been
baked till its moisture is entirely extracted,
which it must be, or it will not keep two
days.
Mem.—Meat that has not been previous-
ly salted, will not keep so long as that
which has.
POULTRY. In choosing a turkey, the
young cock bird is to be preferred ; the best
have black legs, and if young, the toes and
bill are pliable and feel soft. A hen turkey
is chosen by the same rules.
Fowls with black legs are the best; if
fresh, the vent is close and dark; if young,
the combs are bright in the color, and the
legs smooth—the spurs of a young cock are
short.
A goose, if young and fine, is plump in
the breast, the fat white and soft, the feet
yellow, and but few hairs upon them.
Ducks may be chosen by the same rules,
and are hard and thick on the breast and
belly.
Pigeons should be quite fresh, the breast
plump and fat, the feet elastic, and neither
flabby nor discolored at lhe vent.
To prepare a turkey for dressing, every
plug is carefully picked out; and in drawing
turkeys and fowls, care must be taken not
to break the gall bag, nor the gut which
joins the gizzard, as it is impossible to re-
move the bitterness of the one, or the gritti-
ness of the other. The hairs are singed off
with white paper; the leg-bone is broken
close to the foot, and the sinews drawn out
—a cloth is then put over, the breast, and
the bone flattened with a rolling-pin, the
liver and gizzard, made delicately clean, are
fastened into each pinion. A stuffing made
with sausage meat, adding some grated
bread, and mixing it with the beaten yolks
of two eggs, or a stuffing as for a fillet of
veal, is then put into the breast, and the
turkey, well rubbed over with flour, is put
down to roast. It is basted constantly with
butter, and when the steam draws towards
the fire, it is nearly done;—it is then dredg-
ed with flour, and basted wtth more butter,
served with gravy in the dish, and garnished
with sausages, or with forcemeat balls if
veal stuffing is used, and bread sauce in a
sauce tureen.
To boil a turkey. After being nicely


POU
152 PRESERVES
cleaned, it is trussed with the legs drawn in
under the skin, stuffed with a forcemeat, as
for veal, adding a few chopped oysters;
then boiled in a well-floured cloth, and serv-
ed with oyster, white or celery sauce, poured
over it, and also some in a sauce tureen.
Boiled ham, tongue, or pickled pork, is eat-
en with it. A large-sized turkey will require
more than two hours to boil. Turkey, with
celery sauce, is stuffed and trussed neatly,
laid all over with slices of bacon, tied in a
cloth, and boiled in water, with a little salt,
butter, and It mon-juice added. It is served
thickly covered with celery sauce.
Turkey poults are stuffed and roasted in
the same manuer as a full-grown turkey.
They will require rather more than an hour
to roast. They are dressed with the heads
twisted under the wing, as are also turkeys
sometimes, but it seems an injudicious cus-
tom, as the side on which the liead is canuot
be nicely browned, and in carving, the blood
from the neck is apt to mingle with the
gravy.
To roast a fowl. It is picked, nicely
cleaned, and singed; the neck is cut off
close by the back; the fowl is then washed,
and if a large one, stuffed with forcemeat.
It is trussed and dredged with flour; and
when put down to roast, basted well with
butter, and frothed up. When the steam is
observed to draw towards the fire, it is
sufficiently done; served with gravy in the
dish, and bread sauce in a butter tureen.
A good-sized fowl will require above an hour
to roast.
Chickens are roasted as the above, and
served with gravy in the dish, which is
garnished with fried eggs, and bread sauce
m a sauce tureen; they will require from
half an hour to three-quarters to roast.
To boil a fowl. When nicely singed,
washed, and trussed, it is well dredged with
flour, and put on in boiling water, and if a
large one, boiled nearly an hour. It is
served with parsley and butter, white, or
liver sauce.
Two boiled fowls, served with a tongue
between them, make a handsome top dish.
Boiled chickens are improved by being
stuffed, and will require nearly half an hour
to boil.
To roast a goose. After being well
cleaned, picked, and singed, it is washed,
made perfectly dry, and stuffed -with about
four table-spoonfuls of grated bread, an on-
ion finely minced, together with three sage-
leaves, seasoned with salt and pepper, and
mixed with a well-beaten egg; or, the
stuffing is made of boiled mashed potatoes,
seasoned in the same way as the other, and
mixed with a beaten egg. If roasted on a
■pit, each end is tied on tightly; it is basted
Bt first with a little bit of butter, after which
the fat that drops from it is used. It ts
served with gravy in the dish, and apple
sauce in a sauce tureen. A large goose will
require an hour and a half to roast. At ta-
ble, an opening is cut in the apron, and a
glass of Port wine, with which is mixed a
large tea-spoonful of made mustard, is pour'
ed mto the body of the goose. This is also
an improvement to ducks.
A green goose, about two or three months
old, is seasoned with pepper and salt only,
and requires to be basted wtth butter. It
requires about an hour to roast.
To roast ducks. They are nicely picked,
cleaned, singed, and washed, seasoned with
pepper and salt; or stuffed, and served with
gravy, as directed in pp. 66, 67. A duck
may be boiled for nearly an hour, and served
with onion sauce poured over it.
PRESERVES, SWEETMEATS. &c.
All sweetmeats should be preserved in a
brass pan, which must be well scoured with
sand and vinegar, washed with hot water,
and wiped perfectly dry before it is used.
An iron plate or stove is preferable to a
fire for preserving on; and by boiling the
fruit quickly, the form, color, and flavor,
will be better preserved, and there will be
less waste than in slow boiling. A round
wooden stick, smaller at one end than at
the other, in Scotland called a thevil, is
better adapted for stirring sugar or preserves
with than a silver spoon, which last is only
used for skimming. That there may be no
waste in taking off the scum, it is put through
a fine silk sieve, or through a hatr sieve,
with a bit of muslin laid into it; the clear
part will run into the vessel placed below,
and may be returned to the preserving-
pan.
A silver soup ladle is used for putting pre-
serves into the jars, which should be of
brown stone, or of white wedgewood ware.
After the jellies or preserves are put in, they
must not be moved till quite cold, when they
are covered with a piece of white paper, cut
so as to fit into the jar, and dipped into brandy
or rum. They are then stored in a cool dry
place, and should be looked at occasionally,
If in a few weeks they be observed to fer-
ment, the sirup should be first strained from
the fruit, then boiled till it is thick, and
again poured over the fruit, previously put
into clean jars.
Sugar, low in price, and consequently
coarse in quality, is far from being cheapest
in the end; while that which is most refin-
ed is always the best. White sugars should
be chosen as shining and as close in texture
as possible.
The best sort of brown sugar has a bright
and gravelly appearance.
A jelly-bag is made of half a sauare of


PRESERVES 153 PRESERVES
flanuel folded by the corners, and one side
sewed up; the top bound with tape, and
four loops also of tape sewed on, so as to
hang upon a stand made of four bars of
wood, each thirty-six inched in height, fast-
ened wlth n' bars at the top, each meas-
uring ten inches, with hooks upon tin; cor-
ners. Twelve inches from the bottom four
more bars arc placed. A pan or basin is
put underneath to receive the juice or jelly
as it drops through the bag.
To save Sugar in Preservtng Cher-
ries, Green Gages, Damsons, Currants,
and Raspberries. Gather the f,uit ,'erfectly
dry, and Ut a pound allow live ounces of finely-
pounded loaf sugar; put a layer of fruit into a
wide-mouthed Iwttle or jar, and then one of
sugar, till the vessel is full; tie over it tightly
two ft , Ids of sound bladder, and |wt them into
a copper or pan, with sttnw in the bottom,
and water as high as the necks, antl let them
simmer for three hours. When the water
cools, take out the bottles, and keep them
in a cool dry place.
FRUIT, WITHOUT
SUGAR. Take damsons when not too
ripe; pick off ttte stalks, and put them into
wide-mouthed glass bottles, taking care not
to put in any but what are whole, and with-
out blemish; shake them well down (other-
wise the bottles will not lie half full when
done); stop the bottles with new soft corks,
not too tight; set them into a very slow oven
(nearly colii) four or five hours; the slower
they are done the better; when they begin
to shrink in the bottles, it is a sure sign that
the fruit is thoroughly warm: take them
out, and before they are cold, drive in the
corks quite tight; set them h, a bottle-rack or
basket, with the mouth downwards, and they
will keep good several years.
Green gooseberries, morello cherries, cur-
rants, green gages, or bullace, n.ay li e done
the same way.
Obs.—If the corks are good, and lit well,
there will lie no occasion for cementing
them; but should bungs be used, it wtll be
necessary.
APPLES. (1) Pare, cove,
and quarter six pounds of good hard bak-
ing apples; finely pound tour pounds of loaf
sugar; put a layer of each alternately, with
half a pound of the best white ginger, into a
jar; let it remain eight-and-forty hours; infuse,
for half that time, in a little boiling water,
half a quarter of a pound of bruised white
ginger; strain and boil the liquor with the
apples till they look clear, and the sirup rich
and thick, which may be in about an hour.
Take off the scum as it rises. When to be
eaten, pick out the whole ginger.
PRESERVED APPLES. (2) Weigh
equal quantities of good brown sugar and of
apples; peel,cote, and mince them small. Boil
the sugar, allowing to eveiy three pounds a
pint of water; skim it well, and boil it pretty
thick; then aiid the apples, the grated peel
of one or two lemons, and two or three
pieces of white ginger; boil till the apples
fall, and look clear and yellow. This pre-
serve will keep for years.
APPLES, GREEN COD-
LINGS. Gather the codlings when not
bigger than French walnuts with the stalks
and a leaf or two on each. Put a handful of
vine leaves into a preserving-pan, then a layer
of codlings, then vine leaves, and then cod-
lings and vine leaves alternately, until it is
lull, with vine leaves pretty thickly strewed
on the top, :md fill the pan with sprmg wa-
ter; cover it close to keep in the steam, and
set it on a slow ftre till the apples become
soft. Take them out, and pare off the
rinds with a penknife, and then put them
into the same water again with the vine
leaves, but taking care that the water is
become quite cold, or it will cause them
to crack; put in a little alum and set
them over a slow fire till they are green,
when, take them out and lay them on a
sieve to drain. Make a good sirup and
give them a gentle boil three successive
days; then put them in small jars with
brandy paper over them, and tie them
down tight.
APPLES, Golden Ptpptns.
Take the rind of an orange and boil it very
tender; lay it in cold water for three days;
take two dozen golden pippins, pare, core,
and quarter them, and boil them to a strong
jelly, and run it through a jelly-bag till it is
clear; take the same quantity of pippins,
pare and core them, and put three pounds
of loaf sugar 
 a preserving-pan with a
pint and a half of spring water; let it boil;
skim it well and put in your pippins, with
the orange rind cut into 'long thm slips;
then let them boil fast till the sugar becomes
thick and will almost candy; then put in a
pint and half of pippin jelly, and boil fast
till the jelly is clear; then squeeze in the
juice of a fine lemon; give the whole an-
other boil, and put the pippins in pots or
glasses with the orange-peeL
Lemon-peel may be used instead of or-
ange, but then it must only be boiled, and
not soaked.
, APRICOTS. Pare your ap-
ricots, and stone what you can whole, then
give them. a light boiling in water propor-
tioned to the quantity of fruit, only just
enough; then take the weight of the apricots


PRESERVES 154 PRESERVES
m sugar, and take the liquor in which they
Save boiled, and the sugar, and boil it till
it comes to a sirup, and give lhem a light
boiling, taking off the scum as it rises.
When the sirup jellies it is enough; then
take up the apricots and cover them with
the jelly; put cut paper over them, and lay
them down when cold.
BLACK CURRANTS. Gather
the currants upon a dry day; to every
pound allow half a pint of red currant
juice, and a pound and a half of finely-
pounded loaf sugar. With scissors clip off
the heads and stalks; put the juice, su|jar,
and currants into a preserving pan; shake
it frequently till it boils; carefully remove
the fruit from the sides of the pan, and take
off the scum as it rises; let it boil for ten or
fifteen minutes. This preserve may be eat-
en with cream, and made into tarts.
CHERRIES. To a pound of
cherries allow three-quarters of a pound
of pounded loaf sugar; carefully stone them,
and as they are done, strew part of the su-
gar over them; boil them fast, with the re-
mainder of the sugar, till the fruit is clear
and the sirup thick; take off the scum as it
rises. Or they may be boiled ten minutes
in an equal quantity of sugar, whtch has
been previously clarified and boiled candy
high. Part of the kernels may be added.
CUCUMBERS. Take large
and fresh-gathered cucumbers; split them
down and take out all the seeds; lay them
in sult and water that will liear an egg,
three days; set them on a fire with cold
water, and a small lump of alum, and boil
them a few minutes, or till tender; drain
them, and pour on them a thin sirup; let
them lie two days; boil the sirup again, and
put it over the cucumbers; repeat it twice
more; then have ready some fresh clarified
sugar, boiled to a blow; put in the cucumbers,
simmer it five minutes; set it by till next
day; boil the sirup and cucumbers again,
and set them in glasses for use.
CUCUMBERS, SMALL.
Weigh equal proportions of small green cu-
cumbers and of fine loaf sugar, clarify it;
rub the cucumbers with a cloth, scald them
in hot water, and, when cold, put them into
the sirup, with some white ginger and the
peel of a lemon; boil them gently for ten
minutes. The following day just let them
boil, and repeat this three times, and the
lust, boil them till tender and clear.
DAMSONS. (1) To every pound
of damsons allow three-quarters of a pound
of pounded loaf sugar; put into jars alter-
nately a layer of damsons, and one of sugar
tie them over with bladder or strong paper
and put them into an oven after the bread is
w ithdrawn, and let them remain till the oven
is cold. The following day strain off the
sirup, and boil it till thick. When cold,
put the damsons one by one into small jars,
and pour over them the sirup, which must
cover them. Tie them over with wet
bladder.
DAMSONS. (2) Prick them
with a needle, and boil them with sugar
the same proportion as in the receipt to
preserve damsons, till the sirup will jelly.
Carefully take off all the scum.
GREEN GAGES. Put the
plums into boiling water, pare off the skin,
and divide them; take an equal quantity of
pounded loaf sugar, strew half of it over the
fruit; let it remain some hours, and, with
the remainder of the sugar, put it into a
preserving pan; boil till the plums look
quite clear, take off the scum as it rises,
and a few minutes before taking them off
the fire, add the kernels.
LARGE SWEET GREEN
Gooseberrtes. (1) Weigh equal pro-
portions of sugar and of fruit; with a pen-
knife slit the gooseberries on one side, and
take out all the seeds; put them into a pre-
serving pan with cold water, scald them;
pour off the water when cold; put over and
under them vine leaves, with more cold water;
set them over the fire to green. Clarify the su-
gar; put the gooseberries into a deep jar, and
pour the boiling sirup over them; in two
days pour it off, boil, and put it over the
fruit; repeat this till the sirup becomes thick,
then put them into small jars.
LARGE SWEET GREEN
Gooseberrtes. (2> Gather the largest-
sized gooseberries, and allow an equal quan-
tity of pounded loaf sugar; cut the gooseber-
ries in half, and take out the seeds; wet the
sugar with a little water, and put all together
into a preserving pan; carefully stir and
scum them, and boil them till the sirup is
clear ar,d the fruit soft.
GOOSEBERRIES. The tops
and tails being removed from the gooseber-
ries, allow an equal quantity of finely-pounded
loaf sugar, and put a layer of each alternate-
ly htto a large deep jar; pour into it as much
dripped currant juice, either red or white, as
will dissolve the sugar, adding its weight in
sugar; the following day put ail into a pre-
serving pan and boil it.
GREEN PEAS. Put into a
• /


PUDDINGS 155 PUDDINGS
saucepan of boiling water fresh gathered
and fresh-shelled peas, but not very young;
as soon as they boil up, pour off the water,
and put them upon a large dry cloth folded,
and then upon another, that they may be
perfectly dry without being bruised; let
them lie some time before the fire, and then
put them into small paper bags, each con-
taining about a pint, and hang them up in
the kitchen. Before using, soak them for
two or three hours in water, and then boil
them as directed for green peas, adding a
little bit of butter, when they are put on to
boil.
PRESERVED JARGONELLE PEARS.
Gather pears with stalks before they are
quite ripe; allow equal quantities of fine
loaf sugar and of fruit. Pare the pears as
thinly as possible, keeping on the stalks;
carefully cut out the black top; as they are
peeled put them into cold water. Put cab-
bage leaves into the bottom of a preserving-
pan; lay in the pears, cover them with
cold water and one or two cabbage leaves
upon the top; boil them thirty minutes, and
lay them upon a dish. To six pounds of
sugar, allow a pound of water, boil and
skim tt; then add one ounce of white gin-
ger, previously soaked in hot water, and
scraped clean, add the juice and thinly par-
ed rinds of two lemons. Boil the sirup ten
minutes, put in the pears, and let them boil
twenty minutes; take them out, put them
into a bowl or deep dish, boil the sirup
eight minutes, and when cold pour it over
the pears; cover them with paper; in four
days pour off the sirup, boil it eight minutes,
and pour it over the pears when cold. In
four days repeat this process, and do it a
third time; then stick a clove in each pear,
where the black top was cut out. Put them
into jars, divide the ginger and lemon-peel,
and lwur on the sirup when cold.
RED PEARS. Parboil a doz-
en of pound pears in water; peel them.
Clarify the same weight of fine loaf sugar
that there is of pears; add a pint of Port
wine, the juice and rind of one lemon, with
a little cochineal, a few cloves, and a stick
of cinuamon; boil the pears in this till they
become clear and red; take them out, botl
up the sirup, strain, and put it over the
pears.
PUDDINGS, PIES, AND TARTS.
Great nicety is to be observed in prepar-
ing every material used for boiled or baked
puddings.
The eggs require to be well beaten, for
which purpose, if many are to be done, a
whisk is used; if tew, a three-pronged fork.
The flour is dried and sifted. The currants
are carefully cleaned, by putting them inta
a cullender, and pouring warm water over
them; if very dirty, this is to be repeated
two or three times, and after being drted in
a dish before the fire, they are rubbed in a
clean coarse cloth, all the stalks and stones
picked out, and then a little flour dredged
over them. The raisins are stoned with a
small sharp-pointed knife; it is cleansed in
a basin of water, which also receives the
seed. The pudding cloth must be kept es-
pecially clean, or it will impart an unpleas-
ant taste to anything that is boiled in it;
and when taken off a pudding, it ought im-
mediately to be laid in cold water, and af-
terwatds well washed with soda or pearl-
ashes in hot water. Just before being used
for a rice, bread, or batter pudding, it
should be dipped into hot water, wrung,
shaken, and well dredged with flour; and
for a plum, suet pudding, or any sort of
fruit pudding in paste, it must be buttered
before being floured.
The water should boil quick when the
pudding is put in; and it should be moved
about for a minute, for fear the ingredients
should not mix.
When the pudding is done, a pan of cold
water should be ready, and the pudding
dipped into it as soon as it comes out of the
pot, which will prevent its adhering to the
cloth.
A bread pudding should be tied loose;
if batter, it must be tied tight over, and a
batter pudding should be strained through a
coarse sieve when all is mixed. In others,
the eggs only. If you boil the pudding in
a basin or pan, take care that it is always
well buttered.
When you make your puddings without
eggs, they must have as little milk as will
mix, and must boil for three or four hours.
A few spoonfuls of small beer, or one of
yeast, is the best substitute for eggs. Your
puddings will always be much lighter if you
beat the yolks and whites of the eggs long
and separately. You may, if you please,
use snow instead of eggs, either in pudding
or pancakes. Two large spoonfuls will sup-
ply the place of one egg; the snow may be
taken up from any clean spot before tt is
wanted, and will not lose its virtue, though
the sooner it is used the better.
All puddings in paste are tied tightly, but
other puddings loosely, in the cloth. When
a pudding is to be boiled in a shape, a niece
of buttered white paper is put upon tht top
of it, before the floured cloth is tied iru
The pan, dish, or shape, in which the pud-
ding is to be either boiled or baked, must
always be buttered before it is filled. It is
an improvement to puddings in general to
let them stand some time after being prepared
either for boiling or baking. When a pud-


PUDDINGS
PUDDINGS
156
ding is to be boiled, it must be put on in a
covered pot, in plenty of boiling water, and
never for a moment be allowed to be off the
boil until ready to be served. As the water
wastes, more, and always boilmg, must.be
added. A plum pudding is the better for
being mixed the* day before it is to be boiled.
It may be useful to observe that diis pudding
will keep fur mouths after it is dressed, if
the cloth be allowed to remain upon it, and
if, when cold, it be covered with a sheet of
foolscap paper,-and then hung up in a cool
place. When about to be used, it must be
put into a clean cloth, and again boiled for
an hour; or it may be cut into slices, %nd
broiled as wanted. If in breaking eggs a
bad one should accidentally drop into the
basin amongst the rest, the whole will be
spoiled; and therefore they should be broken
one by one into a tea-cup. When the
whites only of eggs are required for a jelly,
or other things, the yolks, if not broken, will
keep good for three days, if the basin they
are in be covered.
A slab of marble, stone, or slate, is pref-
erable to wood for rolling out paste on.
The rolling-pin, cutters, and every other im-
plement used in these processes, must be
kept particularly clean; they should always
be washed immediately after being used,
and then well dried. Before using butter
for paste, it is laid for some time into cold
water, which is changed once or twice.
When salt butter is used, it is well worked
in two or three waters.' If it should not be
convenient to make the paste immediately
before it is baked, it will not suffer from
standing, if made early in the morning, and
the air excluded from it, by putting first a
tin cover over the pie or tartlets, and
above that a folded table-cloth. To ascer-
tain if the oven be of a proper heat, a little
bit of paste may be baked in it, before any
thing else be put in. Puff paste requires
rather a brisk oven. If too hot it bmds the
surface and prevents the steam from rising,
and if too slow it becomes sodden and flat.
Raised crusts require a quick oven; puffs
and tartlets, which are filled with preserved
fruit, are sufficiently done when the paste is
baked. When large pies have been in the
oven for a few minutes, a paper is put over
them to prevent their being burned.
PUDDING. Sweeten a pint and a half
of cream, and boil it with the peel of a small
lem .1; cut the crumb of a twopenuy roll,
an put it into the cream, and boil it for
eignt minutes, stirring constantly; when
thtck add a quarter of a pound of fresh but-
ter beaten to a cream, a tea-spoonful of gra-
ted nutmeg, and four well-beaten eggs; beat
tt all well together for soma minutes. It
may be baked or hoi lad.
APRICOT. Take stx-and-
thirty nice fine red apricots, cut them in
halves, and take out the stones, and roll
them in a pan with four ounces of powdered
sugar. Prepare your crust, line your mould
with it, put in your apricots, and finish the
same as m the receipt for Apple Puddmg a
la Francaiae.
ALMOND, BAKED. Steep
four ounces of crumbs of bread sliced
in a pint and half of cream, or grate the
bread; then bent half a pound of blanched
almonds very fine, till they become a paste,
with two tea-spoonfuls of orange-flower wa-
ter; beat up the yolks of eight eggs, and the
whites of four; mix all well together; put in
a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and stir
in three or four ounces of melted butter;
put it over the fire, and keep stirring until
it is thick; lay a sheet of paper at the bottom
of a dish, and pour in the ingredients. To
bake half an hour.
ALMOND. Blanch and beat
a pound of sweet almonds with a litde
rose-water, mix a pound of bread grated,
a nutmeg, half a pound of butter, and the
yolks of six eggs, boil a pint of cream, co-
lored with a very little saffron, add it to the
eggs and a little flour, knead it well, and
then put in the almonds, beating it up till
all is mixed together. Boil it for half an
hour in a buttered cloth.
— AMBER. Put a pound of
butter into a saucepan, with three-quarters
of a pound of powder-sugar; when melted
and well mixed together, add the yolks of
fifteen eggs beaten, and as much candied or-
ange beaten to a paste as will give color and
flavor to it. Line the dish with paste for
turning out, and when filled with the above,
lay a crust over, as you would a pie, and
bake in a slow oven. It may be eaten hot
or cold.
APPLE. (1) Weigh one
pound and three-quarters of apples, pare,
core, and cut them into thin bits; weigh
also ten ounces of brown sugar; make a
suet paste, rolled thinuer towards the edges
than in the middle, and sufficiently large to
lay into a two-quart basin, previously but-
tered; put in the apple and sugar alternate-
ly, wet the edges of the paste, and fold it
closely over; dredge it with flour, and tie a
pudding cloth over the top of a Irasin; boil
it for three hours. A light paste may be
made with flour, half its quantity in bulk of
grated bread and suet, mixing it with milk
or water, and, instead of apples, currants,
damsons, or any other fruit, may be enclos-
ed in it.


PUDDINGS 157 PUDDINGS
APPLE. (2) Peel and core
six very large apples, stew them in six ta-
ble-spoonfuls of water, with the rind of a
lemon; when soft, heat them to a pulp, add
six ounces of melted fresh butter, the same
of good brown sugar, six well-beaten eggs,
half a wine-glass of brandy, and a tea-
epoonful of lemon-juice; line a dish with a
puff paste, and when baked, stick all over
the top thin chips of candied citron and
lemon-peel.
APPLE. (3) Make a batter with
two eggs, a pint of milk, and three or four
spoonfuls of flour; pour it into a deep dish,
and having pared six or eight small apples,
place them whole in the batter and bake it.
APPLE, BOILED. Chop four
ounces of beef suet very fine, or two ounces
of butter, lard, or dl ipping; but the suet
makes the best and lightest crust; put it
on the paste-board, with eight ounces of
flour, and a salt-spoonful of salt, mix it well
together with yourhands, and then put it all
of a heap, and make a hole in the middle;
break one egg in it, stir it well together
with your finger, and by degrees infuse as
much water as will make it of a stiff paste:
roll it out two or three times, with the roll-
ing-pin, and then roll it large enough to re-
cetve thirteen ounces of apples. It will look
neater if I ieiled in a basin, well buttered,
than when boiled in a pudding-cloth, well
floured; boil it an hour and three-quarters:
but the surest way is to stew the apples first
in a stewpan, with a wine-glassful of water,
and then one hour will boil it. Some people
like it flavored with cloves and lemon-peel,
and sweeten it with two ounces of sugar.
Gooseherries, currants, raspberries, and cher-
ries, damsons, and various plums and fruits,
are made into puddings with the same crust
directed for apple puddings.
APPLE, A LA FRAN-
OAISE. To make the entremets proper-
ly, it is necessary to have a mould in the
form of a dome four inches deep and six in
diameter; this mould and its lid should be
piereed all over, the same as a skimmer.
There should be a rim round the lid of the
dome that it may cover it so closely that all
air may be excluded.
Peel six and thirty small red apples
and cut them into quarters; toss them in a
stewpan with four ounces of fine sugar
(over which must be grated the rind of an
orange), and four ounces of butter luke-
warm; then place the stewpan over the
stove, with fire on the cover. When your
apples are done, pour them into a dish.
Whilst they are cooling mix up three-quar-
ters of a pound of stiff paste; then roll out
half of it to the thickness of the eighth of an
inch. With this crust line the inside of
your mould, which must be previously well
buttered. 15e careful that the paste lays
quite flat, leaving a piece all round the edge
of the mould, then put in the best quarters
of the apples, and fill up the mould with the
rest of the apples and their liquor, then roll
out the rest of the paste very thin, into two
parts, cut in rounds. Slightly moisten the
paste which you have left round the edge of
the mould, and place upon it one of the
rounds of paste, pinching the edges carefully
together, then slightly moisten, and place
upon it your other round piece of paste,
pincrfing the edge of this with the others to
make it quite close, then cover them with
the lid of the mould well buttered.
Now, turn your mould over into the mid-
dle of a napkin, and tie up the corners of it
close over the top of the dome, and put it
into a saucepan (nine inches deep and nine
wide) full of boiling water; and let it be
kept constantly boiling for an hour and a
half; when it has boiled for this time, take
it out of the saucepan, untie the napkin,
take out the mould, remove the lid, place
the mould on a dish, and then carefully take
it off from the pudding; strew fine sugar all
over your pudding, and serve it quite hot.
ARROW-ROOT. From a quart
of new milk take a small tea-cupful, and
mix it with two large spoonfuls of arrow-
root. Boil the remainder of the milk, and
stir it amongst the arrow-root; add, when
nearly cold, four well-beaten yolks of eggs,
with two ounces of pounded loaf sugar,
and the same of fresh butter broken into
small bits; season with grated nutmeg. Mix
it well together, and bake it in a buttered
dish fifteen or twenty minutes.
AUNT MARY'S. Of bloom
raisins stoned, currants nicely cleaned, suet
finely minced, bread grated, apples minced,
and brown sugar, a quarter of a pound of
each; four well-beaten eggs, a tea-spoonful
of pounded ginger, half a one of salt, half a
nutmeg grated, and one glass of brandy;
mix all the ingredients well, and boil it in a
cloth for two hours. Serve with a sauce of
melted butter, a glass of wine, and some
sugar.
BARLEY. Take a pound of
pearl barley well washed, three quarts of
new milk, one quart of cream, and half a
pound of double refined sugar, a grated nut-
meg, and some salt; mix them well together,
then put them into a deep pan, and bake it;
then take it out of the oven, and put into it
six eggs well beaten, six ounces of beef mar-
row, and a quarter of a pound of grated


PUDDINGS J58 PUDDINGS
bread; mix all well together, then put it in-
to another pan, bake it again, and it will be
excellent.
BATTER, BAKEd or BOIl-
Ed. Break three eggs in a basin with
as much salt as will lie on a sixpence;
beat them well together, and then add four
ounces of flour; beat it into a smooth bat-
ter, and by degrees add half a pint of milk:
have your saucepan ready boiling, and but-
ter an earthen mould well, put the pudding
in, and tie it tight over with a pudding-
cloth, and boil it one hour and a quarter.
Or, put it in a dish that you have well but-
tered and bake it three-quarters of an hour.
Currants washed and picked clean, or rai-
sins stoned, are good in this pudding, and
it is then called a black cap: or, add loaf
sugar, and a little nutmeg and ginger with-
out the fruit, — it is very good that way;
serve it with wine sauce.
BATTER. Take six ounces
of fine flour, a little salt, and three eggs;
beat it well with a little milk, added
by degrees till the batter become smooth;
make it the thickness of cream; put into
a buttered pie-dish, and bake three-quarters
of an hour: or into a buttered and floured
basin, tied over tight with a cloth: boil one
and a half hour, or two hours.
BATTER, WITHOUT
EGGS. Mix. six spoonfuls of flour with a
small portion of a quart of milk; and when
smooth add the remainder of the milk, a tea-
spoonful of salt, two tea-spoonfuls of grated
ginger, and two of tincture of saffron; stir
all together well, and boil it an hour. Fruit
may be added or not.
BEEF-STEAK. Get rump-
steaks, not too thick, beat them with a chop-
per, cut them into pieces about half the size
of your hand, and trim off all the skin, sin-
ews, &c.; have ready an onion peeled and
chopped fine, likewise some potatoes peeled
and cut into slices a quarter of an inch
thick; rub the inside of a basin or an oval
plain mould with butter, sheet it with paste
as directed for boiled puddings, season the
steaks with pepper, salt, and a little grated
nutmeg; put in a layer of steak, then another
of potatoes, and so on till it is,full, occasion-
ally throwing in part of the chopped onion;
add to it half a gill of mushroom ketchup, a
table-spoonful of lemon-pickle, and half a
, gill of water or veal broth; roll out a top,
and close it well to prevent the water getting
in; rinse a clean cl^th in hot water, sprinkle
a little flour over it, and tie up the pudding;
have ready a large pol of water boiling,
cut it in, and boil it two hours and a half;
take it up, remove the cloth, turn it down-
wards in a deep dish, and when wanted take
away the basin or mould.
BEEF-STEAK,BAKED.
Make a batter of milk, two eggs, and flour
or, which is much better, potatoes boiled and
mashed through a cullender; lay a little of
it at the bottom of the dish; then put in the
steaks, prepared as above, and very well
seasoned; pour the remainder of the batter
over them, and bake it.
BISCUIT. Pour a pint
of boiling milk over three Naples biscuits
grated; cover it close; when cold add the
yolks of four eggs, two whites, nutmeg, a
little brandy, half a spoonful of flour, and
some sugar. Boil it an hour in a basin.
BOSTON APPLE. Peel one
dozen and a half of good apples; take out
the cores, cut them small, put into a stewpan
that will just hold them, with a little water,
a little cinuamon, two cloves, and the peel
of a lemon; stew over a slow fire till quite
soft, then sweeten with moist sugar, and
pass it through a hair sieve; add to it the
yolks of four eggs and one white, a quarter
of a pound of good butter, half a nutmeg,
the peel of a lemon grated, and the juice of
one lemon: beat all well together; line the
inside of a pie-dish with good puff paste;
put in tlie pudding, and bake half an hour.
BRANDY. Line a mould with
jar-raisins stoned, or dried cherries, then1
lay thin slices of French roll; next put a lay-
er of ratafias or macaroons, then the fruit,
rolls, and cakes, in succession, until the
mould be full, pouring in at times, two
glasses of brandy. Beat four eggs, yolks and
whites separately, put to them a pint of milk
or cream, lightly sweetened, half a nutmeg,
and the rind of half a lemon grated. Pour
it into the mould, and when the solid has
imbibed it all, flour a cloth, tie it tight over,
and boil an hour; keep the mould the right
side upwards.
BREAD AND BUTTER.
Cut thin slices of bread and butter, without
the crust, lay some in the bottom of a dish,
then put a layer of well-cleaned currants, or
any preserved fruit; then more bread and
butter, and so on till the dish is nearly filled;
mix with a quart of milk four well-lieaten
eggs, three table-spoonfuls of orange-flower
or rose water; sweeten it well with brown
sugar, and pour it over the bread and butter,
and let it soak for two or three hours before
being baked. It will take nearly an hour.
Serve with a sauce, in a sauce-tureen, made
with a tea-cupful of currant wine, a tablei


PUDDINGS
-
159
PUDDINGS
tpoonful of brown sugar, three of water, and
a btt of butter the size of a walnut, stirred till
boiling hot.
BREAD. (1) Cut two or three
slices of bread rather thin, and without the
crust,. put them in a dish, and pour over
theut half a pint of boiling milk; let it stand
till cold, and then mash the bread; lay into
the bottom of a pudding dish a layer of pre-
served gooseberries, then add the bread;
sweeten well a pint of good milk, and mix
with it three well-beaten eggs with two ta-
ble-spoonfuls of rose water; pour it over the
bread, and bake it for an hour. Before
serving, nutmeg may be grated over the top.
BREAD. (2) Make a pint of
bread-crumbs; put them in a stewpan with
as much milk as will cover them, the peel
of a lemon, a little nutmeg grated, and a
email piece of cinuamon; boil about ten
minutes; sweeten with powdered loaf sugar;
take out the cinuamon, and put m four eggs;
beat all well together, and bake half an hour,
or boil rather more than an hour.
PLAIN BREAD. Make five
ounces of bread-crumbs; put them in a ba-
sin; pour three-quarters of a pint of boiling
milk over them; put a plate over the top to
keep in the steam; let it stand twenty min-
utes, then beat it up quite smooth with two
ounces of sugar and a salt-spoonful of nutmeg.
Break four eggs on a plate, leaving out one
white; beat them well, and add them to the
pudding. Stir it all well together, and put it
in a mould that has been well buttered and
floured; tie a cloth over it, and boil it one
hour.
BUTTER-MILK. Turn two
quarts of new milk with one of butter-milk;
drain off the whey, and mix with the curd
the grated crumb of a twopenuy roll, the
grated peel of a lemon, nearly a whole nut-
meg grated, half a pint of rich cream, six
ounces of clarified butter, and the beaten
yolks of nine, and the whites of four eggs;
sweeten it well, and bake it with or without
'a puff paste, for three-quarters of an hour.
It may be boiled.
CAMP. Put into a saucepan
half a pint of water, a quarter of a pound of
butter, a table-spoonful of brown sugar, add
the peel of half a lemon or orange. Let it
just come to a boil, take it oft', and stir. in a
quarter of a pound of sifted flour; mix it
f«tfectly smooth, and when cold, beat in
four well-beaten, eggs. Half fill twelve yi-l-
low tea-cups, and bake them in a quick
oven. Serve them with a sauce of wine,
sugar, and butter, in a sauce-tureen.
CARROT. Pound in a mortar
the red part of two large boiled carrots; add
a slice of grated bread, or pounded biscutt,
two ounces of melted butter, the same quan-
tity of sugar, a table-spoonful of marma-
lade, or a bit of orange-peel minced; half a
tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg, and four well-
beaten eggs; mix all well together; bake it
in a dish lined with puff paste.
CALF'S FEET. Pick all
the meat off three well-boiled calf's feet;
chop it finely, as also half a pound of fresh
beef suet; grate the crumb of a penuy '.oaf;
cut like straws an ounce of orange-peel, and
the same of citron; beat well six eggs,and
grate a small nutmeg, mix all these ingre-
dients well together, wtth a glass of brandy
or rum, and boil it in a cloth nearly three
hours. Serve with a sweet sauce.
. — CHERRY, ANGLO FRAN-
CAIS. Pick two pounds of fine ripe
cherries, and mix them with a quarter of a
pound of ptcked red currants, (having ex-
tracted the seeds), and six ounces of powder
sugar. Make your pudding as directed in
the receipt for apple pudding, with Musca
del raisins. You may make use of rasp.
berries instead of currants; or mix red or
white currants and raspberries.
CHEESE. (1) Grate one
pound of mild cheese; beat well four eggs,
oil one ounce of butter; mix these ingredi-
ents together with one gill of cream, and
two table-spoonfuls of grated and sifted
bread, and bake it in a dish or tin lined
with puff paste.
CHEESE. (2) Grate a quarter
of a pound of good cheese, put it into a sauce-
pan with half a pint of good milk, and nearly
two ounces of grated bread, and one beaten
egg; stir it till the cheese be dissolved; put
it into a buttered dish, and brown it in a
Dutch oven. Serve it quite hot.
CITRON. (1) Mix together a
pint of cream and the yolks of six eggs; add
to this four ounces of fine sugar, the same of
citron, shred fine, two spoonfuls of flour, and
a little nutmeg; place this mixture in a deep
dish, bake it in a hot oven, and turn it out.
CITRON. (2) The yolks of three
eggs beaten, half a pint of cream, one spoon-
ful of flour, two ounces of citron cut thin;
sugar to the taste; put this into large cups
buttered; bake them in a tolerably quick
oven; when done, turn them out of the cups,
and serve.
COCOA-NUT Quarter pound


PUDDINGS
PUDDINGS
161
GOOSEBERRY, BOILED.
This pudding is made in the
as Apple pudding.
INDIAN. (1) It is a good plan
to make this-pudding the night before. It
requires a great deal of botling, say four
or five hours. Sifted meal and warm milk
stirred together pretty stiff; salt and suffi-
cient molasses added. Boil in a stout bag,
or tightly covered pan; let not the water
get in, and be careful in lying to leave room
for the meal to swell. Let the milk you use
be warm, not scalding. °You may add
chopped suet, which is very much liked by
some, and likewise ginger, if preferred. If!
vou have not milk, water will answer.
INDIAN. (2) Boil inaquartof
good milk a tea-cupful of Indian meal, stir
it constantly till thick, sweeten it with trea-
cle or brown sugar, and stir in two well-
heaten eggs, and an ounce of butter; bake
it in a Dutch oven for half an hour. Haifa
grated nutmeg may be added, and it may be .
made without eggs. A boiled Indian meal
pudding is made in the same way, and after
being mixed with or without eggs in it, it is
tied in a buttered and floured cloth, and boil-!
ed for two hours. It is eaten with cold or
melted butter.
JELLY. Beat to a light cream I
ten ounces of fresh butter, then add by de- j
greea six well-beaten yolks of eggs, and half'
a pound of loaf sugar pounded; stir in two
or three table-spoonfuls of rose water; beat
to a stiff frdth the whites of six eggs, mix
them in lightly; bake it five-and-twenty min-
utes in a dish lined with puff paste.
as for tartlets, and bake it in a moderately
heated oven.
LEMON. (2) Put half a pound
of fresh butter with half a pound of loaf su-
gar, into a saucepan, ana keep it stirring
over the fire till it boils; put it into an
earthen pan, and grate the rind of a large
lemon into it, and let it stand till cold; beat
eight eggs, and squeeze the juice of the lemon
on them; mtx the sugar and butter with
them; put some rich puff paste at the bottom
of a dish, then put in the preparation, and
add bits of candied lemon-peel when you
have put in the preparation. Bake with
great care.
LEMON. (3) Boil in water,
JENETON. Butter a mould, I
and ornament it with raisins in festoons, or
in any other form; line it with sponge bis-
cuit, and fill it up with a mixture of ratafia
and sponge biscuit, then pour a rtch custard
over the whole, and let it stand for two
hours, adding more custard as it soaks into
the biscuit. The mould being quite full, tie
a cloth over it, and boil it for about an hour.
LEMON. (1) Peel four lemons
thin; boil them till they are tender; rub
them through a hair sieve, and preserve the
fine pulp. Take a pound of Naples biscuits,
a little grated nutmeg, and two ounces of
fresh butter, and pour over them some Iwil-
mg milk or cream in which a stick of cin-
namon has been boiled. When cold, mix
with them the pulp of the lemons, and eight
eggs well Ix,aten; sweeten according to
taate, and if you chouse, add brandy. Edge
a dish with good puff paste, put in the mix-
lure; garnish the top with strings of paste,
in a closely covered saucepan, two large
lemons till quite tender; take out the seeds,
and pound the lemons to a paste; add a
quarter of a pound of pounded loaf sugar,
the same of fresh butter beaten to a cream,
and the yolks of three well-beaten eggs; mix
all together, and bake it in a tin lined with
pu'f paste; take it out, strew over the top
grated loaf sugar, and serve it upon a napkin.
- MACARONI. (1) Simmer half a
pound of macaroni in plenty of water, and a
table-spoonful of salt, till it is tender; but
take care not to have it too soft; though ten-
der, it should I« firm, and the form entirely
preserved, and no part beginuing to melt (this
caution will serve for the preparation of all
macaroni). Strain the water from it; beat
up five yolks and the whites of two eggs ; take
half a pint of the best cream, and the breast
of a fowl, and some thin slices of ham.
Mince the breast of the fowl with the ham;
add them with from two to three table-
spoonfuls of finely-grated cheese, and sea-
son with pepper and salt. Mix all these
with the macaroni, and put into a pudding-
mould well buttered, and then let it steam in
a stewl«m of boiling water for about an
hour, and serve quite hot, with rich gravy
(as in Omelet).
- MACARONI. (2) Take an ounce
or two of the pipe sort of macaroni, and
simmer it in a pint of milk, and a bit of
lemon-peel and cinuamon, till tender; put it
into a dish, with milk, three eggs, but only
one white, some sugar, nutmeg, a spoonful
of almond-water, and half a glass of raisin
wine; lay a nice paste round the edge of the
dtsh, and put it in the oven to bake. If
you choose you may put in a layer of orange-
marmalade, or raspberry-jam: in this case
you must not put in the almond-water or
ratafia.
MARROW. Put into a mug
14*


PUDDINGS 163 PUDDINGS
and the whites of three eggs, well beaten;
three table-snoonfuls of orange marmalade,
a quarter of a pound of luaf sugar pounded,
the same of melted butter; three table-spoon-
fuls of grated bread, and a quarter of a pint
of cream; mix all well together, and bake
ihem in a dish lined with pull'paste.
ORANGE. (2) Cut in half
three large Seville oranges, squeeze and
strain the juice; boil the skins till quite
soft in a good deal of water, pound them in
a mortar, and mix them with nine beaten
yolks and four whites of eggs, nearly a
pound of pounded loaf sugar, the juice of
the oranges, and half a pound of melted
butter. Bake it in a dish lined with puff
paste for half an hour.
PEAS. Put a quart of split
peas to soak for two hours into warm wa-
ter; boil them in soft water, with a bit of
butter, till sufficiently tender to press through
a sieve; pulp them, and add the beaten yolk
of one egg, a little pepper and salt, and an
ounce of butter. Tie it into a buttered and
floured cloth, and put it on in boiling wa-
ter; boil it nearly an hour.
PLUM. (1) One pound of fresh
beef suet, finely minced, one pound of raisins
stoned, five table-spoonfuls of flour, five of
brown sugar, five ^lell-beaten yolks, and
three whites of eggs, a tea-spoonful of salt;
mix all the ingredients thoroughly, and boil
it in a cloth for four or five hours. Serve
with grated loaf sugar, and melted butter
poured over it.
PLUM. (2) One pound of rai-
sins, stoned and cut in half: one pound of cur-
rants, picked, washed, and dried: one pound
beef suet chopped fine: a pound of grated
bread, or half pound each of grated bread
and flour: eight eggs: quarter pound of su-
gar: salt-spoon of salt: table-spoon of cinua-
mon and mace mixed: two grated nutmegs:
a glass each of wine and brandy: quarter
pound of sugar, and a pint of milk. Pre-
pare all the day before, except the eggs, that
you may mix them the next morning: it re-
quires six hours boiling. Beat the eggs
lightly, then put to them half the milk and
beat together. Stir in the flour and bread;
then the sugar by degrees; then the suet and
fruit; the fruit to be well floured to keep it
from sinking. Stir hard. Now add the
spice and liquor, and the remainder of the
milk. If it is not thick enough, add more
broad or flour; but if there be too much
bread or flour the pudding will be heavy.
Wet the cloth in boiling water, shake it out,
and sprinkle it with flour. Lay it in a dish
and pour into it the pudding Tie it tight,
allowing room to swell. Boil six hours.
When ynu turn it out, stick over the out-
sigle blanched almonds in slips or slips of cit-
ron, or both. If you add grated lemon-peel
to the other ingredients it will much improve
the pudding.
PLUM. (3) One pound of the
best raisins stoned, half a pound of currants
well cleaned, one pound of fresh beef suet
finely minced, five table-spoonfuls of grated
bread, three of flour, two of brown sugar,
one tea-spoonful of pounded ginger, one of
cinnamon, and one of salt, six well-beaten
eggs, and three wine-glasses of rum, all to
be mixed thoroughly together the day before
it is to be boiled. Boil it in a cloth or
mould for four or five hours. Serve with
melted butter, or the following sauce:—
Heat two or three table-spoonfuls of sweet
cream, and mix it gradually with two well-
beaten yolks of eggs; add three table-spoon-
fuls of white wine, brandy, or rum, and a
table-spoonful of sugar; season with grated
nutmeg, and stir it over the fire till quite
hot; but do not allow it to boil.
'<
PLUM. (4) Four ounces of
apples finely minced, the same quantity of
currants cleaned and dried, and of grated
bread, two ounces of raisins, stoned and
minced, two of pounded loaf sugar, half a
nutmeg grated, a little candied orange or
lemon peel, four well-beaten eggs', one ounce
and a half of melted butter just warm; mix
all the ingredients well together, and boil it
in a buttered shape for four hours. If the
pudding does not fill the shape, add a slice
of the crumb of bread at the bottom. Serve
with a sweet sauce,
PLUM, WITHOUT EGGS.
Halfa pound of grated bread, a quarter of a
pound of finely-minced suet, a table-spoonful
of flour, half a pound of currants cleaned,
rather more than two ounces of brown sugar,
a glass of brandy; mix all together with a
sufficient quantity of milk to make it into a
stiff batter; \kit\ it in a cloth for four hours.
It may be baked, adding half a pound of
stoned raisins, and a little candied orange
and lemon-peel.
POTATO. (1) Boil three
large mealy potatoes, jnash them very smooth-
ly, with one ounce of butter, and two or
three table-spoonfuls of thick cream; add
three well-beaten eggs, a little salt, grated
nutmeg, and a table-spoonful of brown sugar.
Beat all well together, and bake it in a but-
tered dish, for half an hour in an oven, and
three-quarters of an hour in a Dutch oven
A few currants may be added to the pud-
ding.


PUDDINGS 164 PUDDINGS
• POTATO. (2) Boil half a
pmt of milk, and the same quantity of cream,
with a sttck of cinuamon, and the peel of
a lemon; strain it, and stir in gradually
three table-spoonfuls of potato flour, mix it
very smoothly, and add six well-beaten eggs;
sweeten with pounded loaf sugar; stick all
round a buttered tin mould, dried cherries,
or stoned ratsins, put in the pudding, and put
a bit of buttered linen over the top, and then
'.he cover of the mould; place it in a sauce-
pan of boiling water, boil it for an hour and
a half; take care the water does not boil
over the mould. Serve with a sweet sauce.
POTATO-FLOUR. Boil some
cinuamon, lemon-peel, and sugar, in a quart
of milk; strain, and stir it with three table-
spoonfuls of potato flour previously mixed
smooth with a little cold milk; stir it till it
be nearly cold; add four well-beaten eggs,
a glass of sweet wine, or two table-spoonfuls
of spirits, and a little marmalade. Bake it
in a Dutch oven.
PRUNE. Stew a pound of
prunes with half a pint of Port wine, a quarter
of a pint of water, and a large table-spoon-
ful of brown sugar; break the stones, and
put the kernels with the fruit; spread it
over a sheet of puff paste, wet the edges, and
roll it into the form of a bolster; tie it firm-
ly in a buttered and floured cloth, and boil
it between two and three hours. Serve
with sweet wine sauce.
QUINCE. Take a sufficient
number of ripe quinces to yield a pound of
pulp, to which put half a pound of powder-
sugar, cinuamon, and ginger, of each two
drachms, pounded; mix them well. Beat
up the yolks of eight eggs in a pint of cream,
add the quince, &c. stir the whole together,
flour a cloth, tie the padding in, and boil it.
. . RATAFIA. Pound, with a lit-
tle rose-water, two ounces of blanched sweet
almonds, and half a quarter of n pound of
ratafia cakes, add the well-beaten yolks of
six, andlhe whites of two eggs, a pint of
thick cream, two glasses of whtte wine, and
one ounce of pounded loaf sugar. Bake it
in a dish, lined with puff paste, for three-
quarters of an hour.
REGENT'S. Rub an earthen-
ware mould with butter, and cover the bot-
tom with bloom raisins stoned; cut thin
slices of the crumb of bread, butter, and lay
one or two over the raisins; upon that put
a layer of ratafia cakes, then one of bread
and butter, and raisins; do thls till the mould
is nearly full, and pour over it the following
mixtures: a pint of cream well sweetened
'with pounded loaf sugar, and mixed with
four well-beaten yolks of eggp, a glass of
brandy, and two table-spoonfiils of rose-wa-
ter; let it soak one or two hours; put over
the top a piece of writing-paper buttered,
and tie over it a cloth. Boil it for one hour
and a half, and serve it with wine sauce.
. GROUND RICE, RICH. (1)
Sttr into a quarter of a pound of ground
rice, a pint and a half of new milk; put it
into a saucepan, and keep stirring it till it
boils; then add three ounces of melted but-
ter, the same quantity of sugar, half a grated
nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-
peel; mix it very well, and when'cold, add
the well-beaten yolks of four, and the white
of one egg, with a glass of ratafia, and half
a one of orange-flower or rose water; bake
it in a dish lined with puff paste for three-
quarters of an hour. Before serving, strew
over the top grated loaf sugar.
GROUND RICE. (2) Mix
till quite smooth, with a small tea-cupful of
ground rice, a quart of good milk, stir it
over the fire till it boils, and let tt boil for
three minutes; put it into a basin, and when
nearly cold, add the well-beaten yolks of
six, and the whites of two eggs, with a tea-
cupful of sweet wine, or a glass of spirits;
put it into a buttered dish, and bake it for
three-quarters of an hour, or for one hour in
a Dutch oven, in the same way as the mar-
row pudding is done. Any sort of preserve
may be put into the bottom of the dish, and
a sweet sauce may be served with it.
GROUND RICE. (3) Boil
in a pint of milk a quarter of a pound of
flour of rice, with two table-spoonfuls of
rose water, and half the peel of a lemon, stir
it till thick, take it off, and mix in a quar-
ter of a pound of butter, half a grated nut-
meg, the well-beaten yolks of four, and the
whites of three eggs; sweeten it with brown
sugar, pick out the lemon-peel, and boil it
in a buttered basin, which must be complete-
ly filled. Serve with a sauce made with a
glass of white wine, boiled in melted butter,
and sweetened with brown sugar.
RICE, BAKED OR BOIL-
ED. Wash in cold water and pick very
clean six ounces of rice, put it in a quart
stewpan three parts filled with cold water,
set it on the fire, and let it boil five minutes;
pour away the water, and put in one quart
of milk, a roll of lemon-peel, and a bit of
cinuamon; let it boil gently till the rice is
quite tender; it will take at least one hour
and a quarter; be careful to stir tt every
five minutes; take it off the fire, and stir in
an ounce and a half of fresh butter, and beat


PUDDINGS 165 PUDDINGS
up three eggs on a plate, a salt-spoonful of
nutmeg, two ounces of sugar; put it into the
pudding, and stir it till tt is quite smooth;
Hue a pie-dish big enough to hold it with:
puff paste, notch it round the edge, put in
your pudding, and hake it three-quarters of I
an hour: this will he a nice ftrm pudding.
If you like it to eat more like custard,
add one more egg, and half a pint more
milk; it will be better a little thinuer when
boiled; one hour will boil it. If you like
it in little puddings, butter small tea-cups,
and either bake or boil them, half an hour
will do cither: you may vary the pudding
by putting in candied lemon or orange peel,
minced very fine, or dried cherries, or three
ounces of currants, or raisins, or apples
minced tine. If the puddings are baked or
boiled, serve them with white wine sauce, or
butter and sugar.
RICE. Boil a quarter of a
pound of rice in water till it is soft, then
drain it in a sieve, and pound it in a mor-
tar; add five well-beaten yolks of eggs, a
quarter of a pound of butter, the same pro-
portion of sugar, a small nutmeg, and half
the rind of a lemon grated; work them well
together for twenty minutes, and add a
pound of cleaned currants; mix it all well
and boil it in a pudding cloth for an hour
and a half. Serve with wine sauce.
RICE, WITHOUT EGGS.
Weigh six ounces of rice, six of brown su-
gar, and three and a half of fresh butter;
break the butter into small bits; wash the
rice in several waters; put all into a pudding-
dish, and fill it up with good milk; let it
soak some hours. Bake it in a moderate
oven for nearly two hours, and as the milk
wastes, fill up the dish with more, till the
rice be swelled and soft; then let it brown.
RICH. Put into a saucepan
four ounces of fresh butter, six ounces of
pounded loaf sugar, six of marmalade, and
six ounces of eggs, well beaten; stir all one
way till it be thoroughly warmed; it must
not be allowed to boil. Bake it in a dish
lined with puff paste.
SAGO. (1) Boil five table-spoon-
fuls of sago, well picked and washed, in a
quart of water, also half the peel of a lemon,
and a stick of cinuamon; when it is rather
thick/add half a pint of white wine, and
sweeten it with good brown sugar; beat six
J'olks and three whites of eggs, pick out the
emon-lieeI and cinuamon, mix all well to-
gether, and bake it in a dish with or with-
out puff paste.
SAGO. (2) Wash half a pound
of sago in several waters (warm); then pu
. it into a saucepan with a pint of good milk,
and a little cinuamon; let it boil till thick,
stin ing frequently; pour it into a pan, and
beat up with it half a pound of fresh butter;
: add to it the yolks of eight, and whites of
I four eggs, beaten separately, half a glass of
white wine, sugar according to taste, and a
little flour; mix all together well, and boil
it. Serve with sweet sauce.
SALT. Take a pint of milk,
four dessert-spoonfuls of flour, a little suet,
shred fine, four eggs, salt, and pounded gin-
ger; mix first the eggs and milk, then add
the flour, &c.; put more flour, if necessary,
to give it consistence; tie your pudding in
a buttered cloth, and boiT it two hours.
SCOTCH. Eight well-beaten
yolks and three whites of eggs, half a pound
of pounded loaf sugar, a quarter of a pound
of melted butter, the grated peel and juice
of one lemon; mix all together, and bake it
in a dish lined with puff paste; turn it out
to serve, and strew over the top grated loaf
sugar.
SIPPET. Cut a small loaf into
extremely thin slices, and put a layer of them
at the bottom of a dish, then a layer of mar-
row, or beef suet, a layer of currants, and
then a layer of bread again, &c., and so
continue until the dish is filled; mix four
eggs, well beaten, with a quart of cream, a
nutmeg, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and
pour over; set it in the oven, it will take
half an hour baiting.
SHROPSHIRE. Of fresh beef
suet finely minced, of brown bread grated,
and of brown sugar, one pound each, one
nutmeg grated, a tea-cupful of 'brandy, eight
well-beaten yolks, and four whites of eggs;
mix all well together, and boil it in a cloth
or mould for four hours. Serve it with a
sauce of melted butter, sugar, and two table-
spoonfuls of brandy.
SPRING FRUIT. Peel and
well wash four dozen sticks of rhubarb: put
into a stewpan with the pudding a lemon, a
little cinuamon, and as much moist sugar as
will make it quite sweet; set it over a fire,
and reduce it to a marmalade; pass through
a hair sieve, and proceed as directed for the
Boston pudding, leaving out the lemon-juice,
as the rhubarb will be found sufficiently add
of itself.
SPEAKER'S. Stone and
weigh three-quaaters of a pound of raisins.
Rub with butter a plain oval mould, and
i stick upon it some of the raisins, in stripes


PUDDINGS 166 PUDDINGS
or circles. Cut some thin slices of bread
without the crust, dry them awhile before
the fire, butter, and cut them into strips
about an inch and a quarter wide; line the
mould with part of the bread, then put a
layer of raisms, and strew over a table-
spoonful of pounded loal sugar; add a layer
of the bread and butter; ftll the shape nearly
full, putting br^ad and butter on the top.
Mix with a pint of good milk, the well-bea-
ten yolks of four eggs, a table-spoonful of
sugar, one and a half of rose-water, and a
glass of brandy; |ieur this over the pudding,
and let it soak one or two hours. Bake it
three-quarters of an hour. It maybe boiled
by steam for an hour and a half.
SQUASH. One good squash
stewed and well bruised; six large apples
stewed tender; mix them well together;
add seven spoonfuls of bread crumbs; half
pint of milk; two spoonfuls of rose-water,
twoofwme; six eggs; one grated nutmeg;
salt and sugar to taste. Beat all together till
smooth, and put in a dish lined with puff
paste. Bake three-quarters of an hour.
SUET, WIGGY'S WAY.
Suet, a quarter of a pound; flour, three table-
spoonfuls; eggs, two; and a little grated
ginger; milk, half a pint. Mince the suet
as fine as possible, roll it with the rolling-
pin so as to mix it well with the flour; beat
up the eggs, mix them with the milk, and
then mix all together; wet your cloth well
in boiling water, flour it, tie it loose, put it
into boiling water, and boil it an hour and a
quarter. Mrs. Glasse has it, " when you
have made your water boil, then put your
pudding into your pot."
SUET. Mix six table-spoonfuls of
grated bread with a pound of finely-minced
fresh beef suet, or that of a loin of mutton,
one pound of flour, two tea-spoonfuls of salt,
six well-beaten eggs, and nearly a pint of
milk. Boil it in a cloth four or five hours.
Serve it plain, or with a sweet sauce.
APPLE SUET. Of finely minc-
ed fresh mutton suet, grated apples, flour, and
brown sugar, six ounces each, half a grated
nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of Salt, and four well-
beaten eggs, all well mixed together; boil-
ed for two hours, and served with a sweet
sauce.
• SUET, OR DUMPLINGS.
Chop six ounces of suet very fine; put it m
a basin with six ounces of flour, two ounces
of bread crumbs, and a tea-spoonful of salt
stir it all well together: beat two eggs on a
plate, add to them six table-spoonfuls of
milk, put it by degrees into the basin, and
stir it all well together; divide it into six
dumplings, and tie them separate, previously
dredging the cloth lightly with flour. Botl
them one hour. This is very good the next
day fried in a little butter. The above will
make a good pudding, boiled in an earthen
ware mould, with the addition of one more
egg, a little more milk, and two ounces of
suet. Boil it two hours.
N. B.—The most economical way of mak-
ing suet dumplings, is to boil them without a
cloth in a pot wtth beef or mutton; no eggs
are then wanted, and the dumplings are quite
as light without: roll them in flour before you
put them into the pot; add six ounces of
currants washed and picked, and you have
currant pudding: or divided into six parts,
currant dumplings;' a little sugar will im-
prove them.
— SWEETMEAT. Slice thin,
of orange, lemon-peel, and citron, an ounce
each; lay them at the bottom of a dish, lin-
ed with a light puff paste; mix with half a
pound of butter melted, the yolks of seven
eggs and the whites of two, and five ounces
of sugar; pour this over the sweetmeats, and
set it in the oven; it will take rather more
than half an hour baking.
TANSY. Pour over a thick
slice of the crumb of bread a quart of boiling
milk; cover it till cold. Beat the yolks of
four and the whites of two eggs. Pound
some tansy with two or three leaves of
spinaeh; squeeze the juice, and put as
much of it as will make the pudding a good
green color, a gl;,ss of brandy, half a grat-
ed nutmeg, and four ounces of fresh butter;
mix all the ingredients, sweeten, and put it
into a saucepan, and stir it over the fire till
it be hot. Bake it in a buttered dish for
half an hour. Before serving, strew grated
loaf sugar over the top.
TRANSPARENT. Put eight
eggs well-beaten into a stewpan with half
a pound of sugar, pounded fine, half a pound
of butter, and some nutmeg grated. Set it
on the fire, and keep constantly stirring till
it thickens. Then set it into a basin to
cool; put a rich puff paste round the edge
of the dish; pour in the pudding, and bake
it in a moderate oven. It will cut light
and clear. Candied orange and citron may
be added, if you think proper.
TAPIOCA. Put four table*
spoonfuls of tapioca into a quart of milk,
and let it remain all night, then put a spoon-
ful of brandy, some lemon-peel, and a little
spice; let them boil gently, add four eggs,
and the whites well beaten, and a quarter
of a pound of sugar. Bake it.
9


QUE
QUI
168
of a lemon with some butter, salt, and pep-
per; pick, and prepare eight quails, stuff
them well with the above mixture; then
fasten the legs to the body, leaving the claws
free; truss them a good'shape, and put them
mto a saucepan on slices of bacon, cover
them also with slices, add a gravy, moisten-
ed with equal portions of white wine and
stock; set them on the fire for half an hour;
then take them out, drain and untie the
birds, place each on a piece of fried bread
the size of the quail, and serve with a clear
Spanish sauce, with the addition of a little
QUAILS, HOT PIE. Make a raised
crust m tile usual way, spread over the bottom
of it some farce cuite mixed with the livers
of the (mails, pounded, and some sweet
herbs; take eight quails, take out the thigh
bones, and half dress them in a little butter
and sweet herbs; when cold, stuff each with
some of the above-mentioned farce, arrange
them in the pie, fill up the intestines and the
centre with the remainder of the farce, season
tt well, lay slices of bacon over the quails;
wet the edges of the paste with water, cover
the pie wtth a very thin crust; do it over
with egg, and decorate it according to fancy.
Put it mto the oven to bake, an hour and a
quarter will suffice. When done, raise the
top carefully, remove the bacon, take off all
the fat, pour in some good gravy, and serve.
QUAILS, ROASTED. Truss thebirds,
and stuff them with beef-suet and sweet
herbs, l>oth shred very small, seasoned with
salt, pepper, and nutmeg; fasten them to a
spit, and put them to the fire; baste with
salt and water when they first begin to get
warm; then dredge them with tluur, and
baste with butter. Put an anchovy, two or
three shallots, and the juice of a Seville or-
ange into a little rich gravy; set it on the
fire, shake it about, and when the anchovy
is dissolved, serve it with the (mails. Gar-
nish the dish with fried bread crumbs. These
birds are sometimes roasted, wrapped ftrst in
a slice of bacon, and then in a vine-leaf.
They should be kept at a moderate distance
from the fire.
QUAILS, STEWED. Tut a little
butter worked up with flour, and a few green
onions into a stewpan; when brown, put
in some quails, a glass of wine, the same of
stock, parsley, some more small onions, a
bay-leaf, and two or three cloves; stew these
till the emalls are sufftciently done. Garnish
your dish with cockVcombs, artichoke bot-
toms, fried bread, Sec.
QUEEN'S POTAGE. Draw, wash,
and clean three chickens, or young fowls, put
them into a stewpan, with a bunch of parsley
and some well-seasoned boiling veal stock;
let it stew for an hour; take out the fowls,
and pound all the meat to a fme paste in a
marble mortar, with the crumb of two penuy
loaves, previously soaked in the soup, and
the yolks of three or lour hard boiled eggs;
rub all through u sieve, and add it to the
soup stirring it well. Put a quart of rich
cream on the ftre, and stir it tiil it boils, and
then mix it with the soup and serve it quite
hot.
QUEEN OR HEART CAKES. One
pound of sifted sugar, one pound of butter,
eight eggs, one pound and a quarter of flour,
two ounces of currants, and half a nutmeg
grated. Cream the butter, and mix it well
with tlte sugar and spice, then put in half
the eggs, and beat it ten minutes—add the
remainder of the eggs, and work it ten min-
utes longer—stir in tbe flour lightly, and the
currants afterwards,—then take small tin
pans of any shape (hearts the most usual),
rub the inside of each with butter, fill and
bake them a few minutes in a hot oven, on
a sheet of matted w ire, or on a baking plate
—when done, remove them as early.as pos-
sible from the pans.
QUEEN'S DROPS. Leave out four
ounces of flour from the last receipt, and
add two ounces more of currants, and two
ounces of candied peel, cut small—work it
the same as in the last receipt, and when
ready put the mixture into a biscuit funuel,
and lay them out in drops about the size of
half a crown, on white paper,—bake them
in a hot oven, and when nearly cold, take
them from the paper.
QUINCE COMPOTE. Take six
quinces, cut them in halves, and core them;
scald and pare them neatly. Put some clear
sirup into a preserving-pan, with the juice
of a lemon; when hot, add the quinces, and
give them a boil together; drain the fruit,
arrange it in the compotier; leave the sirup
to thicken a little, and pour it over the
quinces.
QUINCE CREAM, lake four or five
ripe quinces, and roast them, but not to sof-
ten them; pare, core, slice them thin, and
then boil them slowly in a pint of good
cream, with a little glnger; when tolerably
thick, strain it, add sugar to your taste, and
flavor it with,rose-water.
QUINCE JELLY. Quinces for jelly
ought not to be quite ripe, they should, how-
ever, be of a fine yellow color; take oft the
down which covers them, quarter, core, put
them into a saucepan, with water enough


QUI
QUI
169
to cover them; set them on the fire, and
when soft, lay the pieces on a sieve to drain,
pressing them very slightly; strain the liquor,
and measure it; clarify, and boil to cause
an equal quantity of sugar; then take it off,
add the liquor to it, stirring it well; when
mixed, put it on the fire, still stirring; as
soon as the jelly spreads over the spoon, and
falls from it like molasses; take it from
the fire, and when cold, pour it into pots.
QUINCES TO KEEP. Gather the
fruit quite ripe, but perfectly sound; rub
each carefully with a clean cloth, to remove
the down; then quarter, and put them into
bottles, corked tight. Give them half an
hour's boil in the bain-marie.
QUINCE MARMALADE. Gather
the fruit when fully ripe, and of a fine yel-
low; pare, quarter, and core it. Put the
quinces into a saucepan, with a little water,
set them on the fire until they are quite soft;
then take them out, and lay them on a sieve
to drain; rub them through, weigh the
pulp; boil an equal quantity of sugar to
petit casse, then add the pulp, stir them
together over the fire, until it will full from
the spoon like a jelly; the marmalade is
then fit to be put into pots, and when cold,
cover them close.
QUINCES TO PICKLE. Pare and
cut half a dozen quinces into small pieces,
and put them, with a gallon of water, and
two pounds of honey, into a large sauce-
pan; mix them together well, and set them
on a slow fire for half an hour: strain the
liquor into ajar; when quite cold, wipe the
quinces perfectly dry, and put them into it;
cover them very close.
QUINCES PRESERVEd IN WHITE
JEllY. Take as many quinces as you
may require, choose them sound; pare,
quarter, and core them, strewing powder-
sugar over as you do them, filling up all the
holes also with sugar; throw in a small quan-
ttty of water, and when all at e cut, add more
water, and set-them on a fierce fire to boil
quickly. As soon as the quinces are tender,
and the sirup clear, add some apple-jelly,
give the whole one boil, and then pour it
into glasses; when cold, drain ofti the sirup
and jelly, put them into a saucepan, and
let them boil as quick as you can; just be-
fore the jelly is taken oft', put in a small
quantity of musk, or any other ingredient
you may wish to flavor the preserve with,
and then pour it in the glasses again, over
the *minces, and when cold cover them.
This may also 1i e colored red by adding a
email quantity of prepared cochineal; in
this case, the jelly should be red too.
QUINCES THE SPANISH WAY.
Pare and core ten pounds of quinces, put
them into a stewpan with a pint and a half
of water and two pounds of fine sugar, set
them on a slow fire, and when they begin
to dry, moisten them with rose-water and
sack, or white wine; then press the paste
through a coarse sieve, add two pounds of
sugar, a little orange-flower and rose water.
When sufficiently done, it will come off
clean, if dropped on a plate; then set it
aside to cool. Put it into shallow pots,
strew perfumed comfits over, and covet
them close.
QUINCES, SIRUP OF. Pare and
scrape some very ripe quinces into a linen
cloth, press out the juice, which put in a
very warm place, or where it is exposed to
the sun, until all the fccula falls to the bot-
tom; then strain it well, and for every
quarter of a pound of juice, take one pound
of sugar; mix them together, and bflil the
whole to perle; take it off, and when the
sirup is nearly cold, it may be bottled.
Take care to keep the bottles well corked.
QUINCE TART. Take some preser-
ved quinces, make a sirup with some sugar
and water, of which, and the preserve, take
an equal weight, and put it into a preserving-
pan; boil, skim, and then put in the fruit;
when tolerably clear, lay the (minces in a
tart-dish with puff paste as usual; cover and
bake it; as soon as it is done raise the top
gently, pour in the sirup, ice it, and serve*
QUIN'S SAUCE. See Sauce.
QUINTESSENCE OF ANCHOVY.
The goodness of this preparation depends
almost entirely on having fine mellow fish,
that have been in pickle long enough (£. c.
about twelve months) to dissolve easily, yet
are not at all rusty.
Choose those that are in the state they
come over in, not such as have been put into
fresh pickle, mixed with red paint, which
some add to improve the complexion of the
fish; it has been said, that others have a
trick of putting anchovy liquor on pickled
sprats; you will easily discover this by wash-
ing one of them, and tasting the flesh of it,
which in the fine anchovy is mellow, red,
and high-flavored, and the bone moist and
oily. Make only as much as will soon be
used, the fresher it is the better.
Put ten or twelve anchovies into a mortar,
and pound them to a pulp; put this into a
very clean iron, or silver, or very well
tinned saucepan; then put a large table-
spoonful of cold spring-water (we prefer
good vinegar) into the mortar; shake it
round, and pour it to the pounded anchovies,


RABBIT 171 RABBIT
stewpan, set it on the fire, and when warm,
put in the rabbit with a little pounded spice,
salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg; let the fire
be brisk, and as soon as the pieces are
browned, add a little shred parsley and shal-
lots, leave it three or four minutes longer on
the fire, and then serve. Ten or fifteen min-
utes are sufficient to cook this dish.
RABBIT PIE. Cut a couple of young
rabbits into quarters, and bruise a quarter
of a pound of bacon in a mortar, with the
livers, some pepper, salt, a little mace, pars-
lev, cut small, and a few leaves of sweet ba-
sil; when these are all beaten fme, line your
pie-dish with a nice crust, then put a layer
of the seasoning at the lwttom of the dish,
and put in the rabbits; pound some more
bacon in a mortar, mix with it some fresh
butter, and cover the rabbits with -it, and
over that lay thin slices of bacon; put on the
cover, and place it in the oven; it will be
done in about two hours; when baked, take
off the cover, take out the bacon and skim
off the fat, and if there is not a sufficient
quantity of gravy, add some rich mutton or
veal gravy.
RABBIT PIE, RAISED. Cut your
rabbits in pieces, and put them into a stew-
pan. with a bit of fresh butter, lemon-juice,
pepper, salt, parsley, thyme, shallots, chopped
ry fine, and a little pounded mace. When
the pieces of rabbit are about half done, lay
them on a dish, and when cold, raise the
crust; put light forcemeat at the bottom;
the rabbit upon it, and more forcemeat upon
the top. Cover it, and put it in a moderate
oven to bake gently; when done, take off
the cover, and add a ragout of sweetbreads
cock's eomlxs, &c., and serve.
RABBITS, PORTUGUESE. Cutoff
the heads of a couple of rabbits, turn the
backs upwards, the two legs stripped to the
end, and trussed with a couple of skewers
in the same manuer as chickens, the wings
turned like the pinions of a chicken; lard
and roast them with good gravy; if they are
intended for bojling, they should not be lard-
ed, but lie served with bacon, and greens,
or celery sauce.
RABBITS, POTTED. Take two or
three young, but full-grown rabbits, cut them
up, and take off the leg bones at the thigh,
season them well with pepper, mace, cay-
enue, salt, and allspice, all in very fine pow-
der, and put them into a small pan, placing
them as closely together as possible. Make
the top as smooth as you can. Keep out the
heads and carcasses, but take off the meat
about the neck. Put plenty of butter, and
let the whole bake gently. Let it remain in
the pan for two days, then put it into small
pots, adding butter. The livers should also
be put in.
RABBIT PRESERVED. Having
boned a rabbit, lard it with bacon and ham;
season it well inside and out, roll it up, be-
ginuing with the legs, make it tight, and
tie it. Put it into a stew-pan, with some
oil, thyme, bay-leaf, and basil; set these
on the fire till done enough (but without
boiling). When sufficiently cooked, take
out the rabbit, drain, let it cool, and then
cut it into small pieces, which put into bot-
tles; fill them with oil and cover with wet
bladders. When required for table, take
them out, cut them lnto fillets, and place
on a dish with shred parsley and oil.
RABBITS PULLED. Half boil your
rabbits, with an onion, a little whole pep-
per, a bunch of sweet herbs, a piece of
. iemon-peel; pull the flesh into flakes; put
to it a little of the liquor, a bit of butter roll-
ed in flour, pepper, salt, nutmeg, chopped
parsley, and the liver boiled and bruised;
boil this up, shaking it round, and serve.
RABBITS, ROASTED. Truss them
for roasting, and stuff them with the liver
minced raw, grated bread, and ham, butter
or suet, and chopped parsley, seasoned with
a little lemon thyme, grated nutmeg, salt, and
pepper, and bound with an egg beaten. Sew
them up, and roast them before a quick fire,
and baste them with butter. Serve them
with gravy, or melted butter with lemon
pickle in it. Two will take an hour to
roast. They may also be fricasseed or fried,
cut into joint", with plenty of fried parsley,
and served with a sauce made of the liver
and some parsley chopped, and mixed in
melted butter, with a little pepper and salt,
or made into a pie the same as chickens.
RABBIT SOUP. Cut an old rabbit
into pieces, put them into a quart of water;
boil it well, take out all the bones, and beat
the meat in a marble mortar, as for potting;
add a little salt, mace, and white pepper, to
your tas'e; stir it into the liquor the rabbit
was boiled in, with the addition of a very
little cream.
N. B. The meat of the whole rabbit is
too much for one quart; query, would it
not be enough for two!
RABBITS STEWED, WITH A
BROWN SAUCE, OR WITH A WHITE
sauce. Wash and clean the rabbits well,
let them lie for two or three hours in cold
water, cut them into joints, wash and dry
them in a cloth, dust them with flour, and
fry them of a light brown with butter, and


REL
RICE
173
RASPBERRY ICE. Press the juice,
from as many raspberrries as will yield a
pound and a half; put it into a glazed pan,
and leave it for four days. Then carefully
raise the skin that has formed on the top of
it, pour off the juice into another vessel;
clarify a pound and a half of sugar, with a
pint and a half of water, add the jutae, and
give them half a dozen boils; if not suffi-
ciently red, put in a root of orkanet, which
leave in till of the proper color; strain the
preparation through a sieve; when cold, put
it into the sabotiere, and freeze it. See Ice.
RASPBERRY SPONGE. Dissolve
in a little water three-quarters of an ounce
of islnglass, add to it three-quarters of a
pint of cream, and the same proportion of
new milk, nearly half a pint of raspberry
jelly, and the juice of a lemon. Whisk it
well one way till tt becomes thick, and looks
like sponge, then put it into an earthenware
mould, and turn it out the next day.
RASPBERRY TART. Line your
dish with a nice puff paste, lay in sugar
and fruit, put bars across, and bake.
RASPBERRY TART wtth cream.
Line a patty-pan with thin puff paste, lay
in some rasplierries, and strew some very
finely sifted sugar over them; cover them
with puff paste, and bake it; when done,
rut it open, and put in half a pint of cream,
in which bas been previously beaten the yolks
of two or three eggs, and sweetened wtth a
little sugar; when this is added to the tart,
return it to the oven five or six minutes.
RED CABBAGE. Get a fine purple
cabbage, take off the outside leaves, quarter
it, take out the stalk, shred the leaves into
a colander, sprinkle them with salt, let them
remain till the morrow, drain them dry, put
them into a jar, and cover them with the
pickle for beet roote.
RED MULLET. Scrape and wash
them, fold them in buttered paper, lay them
into a dish, and bake them gently. The
liquor that comes from them, boil with a
piece of butter, dusted with flour, a tea-
spoonful of soy, two of essence of anchovy,
and a little white wine. Serve the sauce in
a butter-tureen. This fish is called the sea
woodeock, from being dressed with the
inside.
RELISH FOR CHOPS, &c. Pound
fine an ounce of black pepper, and half an
ounce of allspice, with an ounce of salt, and
half an ounce of senqied horseradish, and
the same of eschalots, peeled and quartered;
nut these ingredients into a pint of mushroom
ketchup, or walnut pickle, and let them steep
for a fortnight, and then strain it.
Obs.—A tea-spoonful or two of this is
genera 1 ly ;tn acceptable addition, mixed
with the gravy usually sent up for chops and
steaks, or added to thick melted butter.
REMOULADE, INDIAN. Pound the
yolks of ten hard eggs to a paste, dilute it
with eight spoonfuls of oil, put in one at a
time, and continue pounding all the time;
then add about a dozen allspice, a tea-spoon-
ful of saffron, four or five spoonfuls of vine-
gar, salt, and pepper; amalgamate the whole
perfectly, strain it through a bolting-cloth,
and serve it in a sauce tureen. This sauce
should be rather thick.
RENNET. (1) As soon as the calf
is killed, take out the stomach, and scour It
inside and out with salt, after it is cleared
of the curd always found in it. Let it drain
for a few hours, after which sew it up with
two large handfuls of salt in it, or stretch it
on a stick well salted; or keep it in the
salt, wet, and soak a bit, which will do over
and over by fresh water.
RENNET. (2) Prepare the maw the
same as in the above receipt: on the follow-
ing day, put a handful of hawthorn-tops, a
handful of sweet briar, a handful of rose-
leaves, a stick of cinuamon, forty cloves,
four blades of mace, a sprig of knotted mar-
joram, and two large spoonfuls of salt, into
two quarts of fresh spring water; let them
boil gently till the water is reduced to three
pints, then strain it off, and when only milk
warm, pour it on the maw. Slice a lemon,
and add to it; in two days, strain it again,
and put into bottles. Aromatic herbs may
be put in also; take care that it is sufficient-
ly salt. If the maw be again salted for a
few days, and dried as above, it will be
quite as lit for use as before; it should be
kept in a cool, dry place. A small quantity
of the liquid is sufftcient for turning.
RHUBARB TA RT. Let the stalks be
of a good size, take off the thin skin, and
cut them into lengths of four or five inches;
lay them in a dish, and put over a thin
sirup of sugar and water; cover with another
dish, and let it simmer slowly for an hour
upon a hot hearth, or do them in a block-
tin saucepan. As soon as cold, make it
into a tart; when tender, the baking the
crust will be sufftcient; or you may cut the
stalks into little bits, the size of gooseberries,
and make your tart the same as gooseberry
tart.
RICE BLANCMANGE. Put a tea-
cupful of whole rtce into the least water


RICE
RICE
174
possible, till it almost bursts; then add half
a pint of good milk or thin cream, and boil
it till it is quite a mash, stirring it the whole
time it is on the fire, that it may not burn;
dip a slope in cold water, and do not dry
it; put in the rice, and let it stand unttl
quite cold, when it will come easily out of
the shape. This dish is much approved of;
it is eaten with cream or custard, and pre-
served fruits; raspberries are best. It should
be made the day before it is wanted, that it
may get firm. This blancmange will eat
much nicer, flavored with spices,Temon-peel,
&c., and sweetened with a little loaf sugar,
add it with the milk, and take out the lemon-
peel before you put in the mould.
RICE, TO BOIL. Wash the rice per-
fectly clean, and put on one pound in two
quarts of cold water; let it boil twenty min-
utes, strain it through a steve, and put it be-
fore the fire; shake it up with a fork every
now and then, to separate the grains, and
make it quite dry. Serve it hot.
RICE CASSEROLE. Take a pound
and a half of rice, wash it thoroughly in
several waters (warm), and then put it
into a saucepan, at least eight inches in
diameter; moisten it with stock, in this pro-
portion; if the rice lies an inch thick, let
the stock come two inches above it, and
four ladlefuls of fowl skimmings; place the
saucepan on a hot stove; when the rice
boils, set it on the side, and skim it; then
put it on hot ashes, cover, and let it boil
slowly for fifteen to twenty minutes; stir it,
let it boil as before; in twenty or twenty-
five minutes, stir it again; if by this time
the rice is perfectly soft, take it off, but if
not, add a little more liquid, and continue
boiling until it is so; place the saucepan
aslant on the side of the stove that the fat
may drain away and be taken off easily.
As soon as the rice is lukewarm, work it
into a firm, smooth, paste, with a spatula;
it can hardly be worked up too much, as
every grain of rice ought to pass under pres-
sure (if necessary, add more stock, a very
little at a time). When the paste is thus
thoroughly worked up, form your casserole
of it, first laying it in a heap, four or five
inches high, and seven in diameter; doit
with the hand as you would a raised crust;
make the ornaments of the outer surface with
the point of a knife, or by carrots cut for
the purpose, taking care that the decorations
be detached from the mass of rice, at least
an inch; attention to this particular will
not only add to the beauty of the form, but
to the color also, as the raised parts will be
lightly colored, while the ground will be
quite white. When properly formed, mask
tlte whole surface with clarified butter, and
place it in a hot oven for an hour and a half,
by which time it will be of a fine clear yel-
low. Take off the top of your casserole,
clear away all the rice from the inside thai
does not adhere to the crust (which ought to
be very thin), and mix it with bechamelle,
espagnole, or whatever other sauce may be
proper, put it in again, and then fill your
casserole, with such ragouts as your fancy
may dictate; glaze the surface of the outer
ornaments, and serve it. Water, with but-
ter and salt, is frequently thought preferable
to the stock, &c., as the rice is thereby
rendered much whiter.
RICE CASSOLETTES. The rice
prepared as above may be put into smaller
moulds, those called dariole moulds, and
it should be quite cold before it is turned out,
the mince or whatever is put inside being
also cold; it must be put in carefully, that
none of it may mix with the rice, otherwise
the cassolettes would break in the process
of frying; for the same reason, the dripping
must be very hot. Frying is the best and
quickest method of doing them, but they may
also be browned in the oven as the casserole
of rice.
RICE CHEESE. Boil an ounce of
rice, thick as hasty pudding, in rather less
than half a pint of milk (new); pour it hot
on an ounce and a half of butter, the same
weight of sugar, mixing it welf together; let
it stand till cold; then add one egg, and the
yolk of another, and a little white wine.
RICE CREAM. Mix some rice flour
with half a glass of cold milk; then by de-
grees, add a pint more, also cold, and put
it with a bay-leaf into a saucepan, set it on
a slow fire for an hour and a half, then strain
and flavor it with orange-flower water,
sweeten to your taste, and serve it hot. It
should be stirred frequently whilst boiling;
eggs may be added if you think proper.
RICE CROQUETTES. Wash and
scald a quarter of a pound of rice, put it
into a saucepan, with the rind of a lemon,
sln ed small, a quarter of a pound of powder-
sugar, a pinch of salt, a little crisped orange-
flowers, an ounce of butter, and half a pint
of milk; set these on the fire, and when tbe
rice is quite soft, add the yolks of four eggs,
stir them in over the fire, but do not let them
boil; pour the preparation on a large tin or
slab, spread it equally; let it cool, and then
divide it into small equal parts; roll these
into balls, dip them into an omelet, roll
them in bread-crumbs, and fry them in a
very hot pan. As soon as the croquettes
are of a nice color, drain, sprinkle them
with powder-sugar, and serve them. V


RICE
RICE
175
RICE CUPS. Sweeten a pint of milk
with pounded loaf sugar, and boil it with a
stick of cinuamon; stir in sifted ground
rice till thick; take it off the fire, and add
the well-beaten whites of three eggs; stir it
again over the fire for two or three minutes,
then put it into tea-cups previously dipped in
cold water; turn them out when .cold, and
pour round them a custnrd cream made with
the yolks of the eggs; place upon the rice a
little red currant jelly or raspberry jam.
This dish may be served warm or cold; if
cold, rasplierry cream or custard may be
poured round it.
RICE CUSTARDS WITHOUT
CREAM, One tea-spoonful of rice-flour,
a pint of new milk, the yolks of three eggs,
a table-spoonful of ratafia (or two or three
laurel leaves boiled in), sugar to your taste;
mix the rice very smooth, and stir it with
the eggs into the boiling milk, until thick.
Arrow-root is better than rice.
RICE FLUMMERY. (1) Boil a pint of
new milk, with a bit of lemon-peel and cin-
namon: then mix just sufficient rice-flour,
with a little cold milk as will make the
whole of a good consistence, sweeten ac-
cording to taste, flavor with a little pound-
ed bitter almond; boil it, taking care not to
let it bum; pour it into a shape or pint ba-
6m, taking out the spice. When the flum-
mery is cold, turn it into a dish, and serve
with cream, milk, or custard, all round, or
serve with sweet sauce in a boat.
■
RICE FLUMMERY. (2) Boil in a quart
of milk five ounces of sifted ground rice, half
an ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and
pounded with two table-spoonfuls of rose-
water; sweeten, and stir it till very thick,
so that the bottom of the saucepan is seen,
and then put it into a mould; when quite
cold turn it out, stick over it sweet almonds,
cut into straws, and pour round it some thick
Cream, and a little white wine and sugar
mixed with it.
RICE FRITTERS. Boil the rice in
'Dtilk with some powder-sugar, orange-flower
water, a pinch of cinuamon powder, and a
little butter; when quite soft put to it a
liaison of volks of eggs, pour it into a pan
to cool. Make your preparation into balls,
about the size of an egg, dip them in egg,
fry them, sprinkle them with sugar, and
serve.
RICE, GATEAU OF. Boil a quart
of cream, add to it half a pound of powder-
ftttgar, and three-quarters of a pound of
rice; when the latter is quite soft, dissolve
in it a quarter of a pound of butter, aud
then put in the grated rind of a lemon, let
it cool. When quite cold, stir in four yolks
and four whole eggs, more if the rice be
very thick; butter a mould lightlyi put the
rice into it, place the mould in hot ashes, so
that it may be completely enveloped in and
covered with them; in half an hour the ga-
teau will be done enough; then turn it out,
and serve. If you wish, you can make a
souffle, by whipping the whites of six eggs;
like other souffles, in this case it should be
served in a silver dish. In putting the
preparation into the mould, be careful not
to fill it, as the rice would swell and run
over the edge. ,
RICE MILK. Allow an ounce of rice
for each person, wash it thoroughly in warm
water; set some milk on the fire, and when
it boils, put in the rice; continue to boil it
over a slow fire, stirring often for two or
three hours; add salt or sugar according
to taste, and cinuamon.
RICE AND MILK. To every quart
of good milk allow two ounces of rice;
wash it well in several waters; put it with
the milk into a closely-covered saucepan,
and set it over a slow fire; when it boils
take it off; let it stand till it be cold, and
simmer it about an hour and a quarter be-
fore sending it to table; and serve it in
a tureen.
RICE PANCAKES. Boil half a pound
of rice in a small quantity of water, until
quite a jelly; as soon as it is cold, mix it
with a pint of cream, eight eggs, a little
?alt and nutmeg; make eight ounces of
butter just warm, and stir in with the rest,
adding to the whole as much butter as will
make the batter thick enough. They must
be fried in as small a quantity of lard as
possible.
RICE PASTE. Rub three ounces of
butter well, into half a pound of ground
rice, moisten it with water, and roll it out
with a little flour.
RICE, PYRAMIDS OF. Boil some
whole rice, make it up into the form of pyr-
amids about three inches high, or press it
into small tin frames of that. shape; take
out part of the rice at the bottom, and fill the
space with sausage, or rich forcemeat; place
them in a dish, take off the frame, and pour
round them some rich brown gravy.
RICE SAVOURY. Carefully wash
and pick some rice; set it to stew very
gently in a little veal or rich mutton broth,
add an onion, a blade of mace, pepper, and
salt. When it is swelled tt should not be


R I S
ROLLS
176
boiled to mash; put it to dry on the shallow
end of a sieve before the fire. You may
uene it dry, or put it in the middle of a
diuh, and pour the gravy round, havmg firat
heated it.
RICE SNOW BALLS. Wash and
pick half a pound of rice very clean, put it
on in a saucepan with plenty of water; when
it I mils let it boil ten minutes, drain it on
a sieve till it is quite dry, and then pare six
apples, weighing two ounces and a half each.
Divide the nee into six parcels, in separate
cloths, put one apple in each, tie it loose,
and botl it one hour; serve, it with sugar
and butter, or wine sauce.
RICE SOUP. (1) Carefully blanch
some wcll picked rice, then drain it on a
sieve; put about a tea-cupful in the soup-pot,
with one head of celerv, and a quart of
consomme, and let it sunmer by the side
of the stove for three hours. If tt thickens
too much add more consomme, season with
a little salt; take out the celery, and send
the soup to table.
RICE SOUP. (2) Wash your rice
well in warm water, changing it frequently;
then put the rice into a saucepan, wtth
some good stock; set it on the fire, and
leave St to swell for half an hour, but do
not let it boil; when the rice has imbilnxl
all the stock, add a sufficient quantity to
cover the rice, cover, and boil it slowly for
two hours; in the meantime broil two or
three slices of beef, and pepper and salt them
well; when of a nice dark color, throw
them into the rice soup, to which they will
impart a rich flavor and a fine color.
RICE, WHOLE IN A SHAPE.
Wash a large tea-cupful of rice in several
waters, put it into a saucepan with cold
water to cover it, and when it boils, add
two cupfuls of rich milk, and boil it till it
becomes dry; put it into a shape, and press
it in well. When cold, turn it out, and
serve with preserved black currants, rasp-
berries, or any sort of fruit round it.
RISSOLES. (1) Cut puff paste with a
round tin cutter, about three inches wide;
have ready some cold fowl or veal, very
finely minced, and seasoned with a little
pounded garlic, grated lemon-peel, pepper,
salt, and mace, the juice of half a lemon,
and moistened with a little good gravy.
Put some of the mince upon a bit of the
paste, wet the edges, and lay over it anoth-
er bit; press it gently round the rim; brush
them all over with a well-beaten egg, and
strew over them sifted bread crumbs; fry
them a llght brown in boiling clarified lieef
dripping, and lay them upon the back of a
sieve before the fiie to drain. Serve them
in a napkin. The paste may Iie cut of the
size of a large breakfast plate, then the
mince put into the middle of it, the edges
wet all round, and gathered up into the
form of a pear, brushed over with egg, and
strewed over with bread crumbs. Served
in a dish garnished with fried parsley.
RISSOLES. (2) Mince very finely some
cold roasted veal, and a small bit of bacon;
season it with grated nutmeg and salt;
moisten it with cream, and make it up into
good-sized balls; dip them into the yolks
of eggs beaten up, and then into finely-grat-
ed bread. Bake them in an oven, or fry
them of a light brown color in fresh drip-
ping. Before serving, drain them before
the fire on the back of a sieve. Garnish
with fried parsley.
ROLLS. (1) Dissolve two ounces of but-
ter in one pint of new milk, and stir it into
four pounds of flour, as also three table-spoon-
fuls of yeast, a tea-spoonful of salt, and the
well-beaten whites of two eggs; cover the
pan with a warmed towel, and set it before
I he fire to rise for half an hour, then work it
one way for fifteen minutes; form it into
rolls, place them upon tins, and let them
rise for ten minutes before putting them into
the oven.
ROLLS. (2) Warm an ounce of butter in
half a pint of milk, then add a spoonful and
a half of yeast of small beer, and a little salt.
Put two pounds of flow into a pan, and put
in the above. Set it to rise for an hour;
knead it well; make it into seven rolls, and
bake them in a quick oven.
ROLLS, FRENCH. (1) Mix rather more
than an ounce of coarse salt with eight
pounds of sifted flour; make a hole in the
middle, and pour in about half a pint of
good yeast, the well-beaten whites of four
eggs, and as much new milk warmed as
will mix it to a middling stiffness; clap
and work it down one way for half an hour,
but do not knead it; cover it with a warm-
ed towel, and let it rise liefore the fire for
half an hour; take off the surface, which
soon becomes hard, and put it aside to be
made into a roll; work and clap the dough,
form it into rolls, place them upon tins, and
let them rise for ten minutes; bake them
in a quick oven.
ROLLS, FRENCH. (2) Rub one ounce
of butter into a pound offiour; then add to it
one egg beaten, a little yeast that is not bit-
ter, and a sufficient quantity of milk, to make
a dough of moderate stiffness. Beat tt welL


ROS
SAG
177
but do not knead it; let it rise, and bake on
tins.
ROLLS, FRENCH. (3) Warm three
spoonfuls of milk, and the same quantity of
water, with a bit of butter the size of a wal-
nut, put.it to two spoonfuls of thick yeast;
put this into the middle of rather more than
a quart of flour, mix the whole together to
the consistence of a batter-pudding, adding
more flour if necessary, to make it the proper
thickness; strew a little flour over it from
the sides, and if the weather is cold, set it at
a little distance from the fire; do this three
hours before it is put into the oven; when it
breaks a good deal through the flour and ris-
es, work it into a light paste with more warm
milk and water; let it lie till within a quar-
ter of an hour of setting into the oven, then
work them lightly into rolls; flour a tin, and
drop them on, handle them as little as possi-
ble; set them before the fire. About twenty
minutes will lie sufficient time to bake them;
put a little salt into the flouri Rasp the
rolls.
ROLLS, SHORT, HOT. Dry before
the fire a sufficient quantity of flour to make
three penuy-rolls, or larger if ^ou like; add
to it an egg well beaten, a ltttle salt, two
spoonfuls of yeast, and a little warm milk;
make it into a light dough, let it stand by
the fire all night. Bake the rolls in a quick
oven.
ROSE-WATER, doosle-dtsttlled.
The rose generally chosen for this purpose,
is the common pale (single or double) rose,
but the white rose is best of all. Gather the
flowers in fine weather, two hours after sun-
rise; take out the calix, and separate the
leaves, pound them in a marble mortar to a
paste, and leave them five or six hours in the
mortar; then put them into a large close
cloth, and let two persons wring it with all
their strength. Having by thit? operation ob-
tamed four pounds of juice, infuse in it an
equal weight of fresh rose-leaves for twenty-
four hours; at the end of that tune put the
whole into the alembic, which place in a
sand-bach, and distil it according to rule.
(See Distilling). When you have collect-
ed about an ounce of the water, unlute the
receiver, and if that which issues from the
still is as odoriferous as that which proceeded
first, continue the operation; but if not, col-
lect it into another vessel, as this second
water is only single, and must be kept sepa-
rate from the first, which is the Essential
Water. Should the second water have an
unpleasant smell (caused by the application
of too much heat), expose it to the sun for
 few days, covered only by a sheet of paper.
The utmost care is necessary in distilling this
and all other odoriferous substances. A still
more powerful essence than the above may be
procured by the following method:—Gather
as many roses as will afford thirty pounds of
leaves, pound these with four pounds of salt;
when pounded, place the paste in a vessel in
layers with salt between each, press them
closely, cork them tight, leave the vessel
twelve days, and then distil as usual.
ROSE-WATER, SINGLE. Put four
pounds of rose-leaves into a pan, with three
quarts of river water, and leave it four-and-
twenty hours; then put it into a metal alem-
bic, and distil from it as much odoriferous
water as you can, being sure to stop the mo-
ment you observe the phlegm. Take off
the alembic, throw away its contents, and
rinse it out well; after this, fill it to two-
thirds with fresh-gathered rose-leaves, on
which pour the above drawn rose-water;
distil this, and when ,you have procured as
much good rose-water as it will yield, let the
fire go out gradually.
ROUX. Put a pound of butter into a
saucepan, shake it about till dissolved, when
add a sufficient quantity of sifted flour, to
make it the consistence of thick bov.tlll;
then set it over a fierce stove, and stir it un-
til it begins to take color, when make a good
fire of cinders, place the roux on it, and let
it stand to increase in color; it ought to be
of a clear light brown. Set it by, and use it
as occasion may require.
ROUX, WHITE. Prepare your butter
and flour as above, place it on a moderately
heated stove, stirring it constantly till very
hot; be careful that it does not take color at
all, for the whiter it is the more desirable.
RUSKS. To three pounds and a half
of flour allow half a pound of butter, the
same quantity of pounded loaf sugar, and
five spoonfuls of yeast; mix the flour and
sugar together; melt the butter in two pints
and a half of milk, and mix it with the flour,
then add the yeast and one beaten egg;
work it well together; cover it, and let it
stand for five or six hours; take tt out of
the pan, and form it into little rolls; place
them upon tins, and let them rise for about
an hour; bake them in a quick oven, and
when they become brown, cut them through
the middle or into three slices; put them
again into the oven to brown and crisp.
S.
SAGE GARGLE. Boil quickly in a
pint of water, a large handful of sage leaves;


SAL
SAL
179
one: you must consider the thickness, not the
weight: ten pounds of fine full-grown salmon
will be done in an hour and a quarter. Lob-
ster Sauce.
Obs.—The thinuest part of the fish is
the fattest; and if you have a " grand gour-
mand" at table, ask him if he is for thick
or thin.
N. B.—If you have any left, put it into
a pie-dish, and cover it with an equal por-
tion of vinegar and pump water, and a little
salt: it will be ready in three days.
SALMON, BOILED IN WINE. Sea-
son with pepper and salt, some slices of ba-
con, fat and lean together, a pound of veal
cut thin, and a pound and a half of beef; put
these into a deep stewpan, then a fine piece
of fresh salmon cut out of the middle, then
pour in just as much water as will cover it,
and let it simmer over a gentle fire till the
salmon is almost done, then pour the water
away, and put in two quarts of white wine,
with an onion cut in slices, some thyme, and
sweet marjoram, picked from the stalks; let
them stew gently, and while they are doing,
cut a sweetbread into thin slices, then cut the
slices across, and stew them in a saucepan,
with some rich gravy; when they are done
enough, add a quarter of a pint of essence
of ham; take up the salmon, lay it on a dish,
and serve with the sweetbread, and its sauce
poured over.
SALMON, BOILED, Berwtck re-
cetpt. The tail of the salmon is first cat
off near and below the last fin, the fish is
then cut up the back, keeping the bone on
one side, and then cut.up into pieces of half
a pound each, the blood well washed out of
the fish in cold water, but the scales not to bc
removed; a pickle to be made of salt and
watery strong enough to Iiear an egg, and,
when boiling, the fish to be put in, and boil-
ed very quickly for fifteen minutes. During
the boiling, the scum to be taken off carefully
as soon as it rises. Sauces;—lobster,melt-
ed butter, and anchovy sauce.
N. B.—The hardest water is preferable
fur boiling salmon.
SALMON, BOILED, recetpt by an
Aberdeen ftsherman. When the wa-
ter is hot, put salt into it, and stir it well;
taste it; when sU'ong enough to force you to
cast it from your mouth, it will do; when
the water botls put in the fish; when it boils
again, give twenty minutes for a salmon, and
sixteen for a gristle. When salmon is cut
in slices an inch thick, let them boil ten
minutes. Serve with it a sauce tureen of
the liquor the fish was boiled in.
SALMON STEAKS BROILED. Cut
the steaks from the thickest parts of the fLb
nearly an inch thick; butter pieces of white
paper; fold the steaks in them, and broil
them over a slow fire for ten or twelve minutes.
Take off the paper; serve and garnish with
plenty of fried parsley. Dressed in this
way, they may lie put round salmon boiled,
in slices. Sauces;—melted butter, lobster,
or shrimp sauce.
SALMON, FRESH BROILED. Clean
the salmon well, and cut it into slices about
an inch and a half thick; dry it thoroughly
in a clean cloth; rub it over with sweet oil,
or thick melted butter, and sprinkle a little
salt over it: put your gridiron over a clear
fire, at some distance; when it is hot, wipe
it clean; rub it with sweet oil or lard; lay
the salmon on, and when it is done on one
side, turn it gently and broil the other. An-
chovy sauce, &c.
Obs.—An oven diies them best.
SALMON CAVEACH. Boil in two
quarts of vinegar three heads of shallots, half
an ounce of whole black pepper, three cloves,
two blades of mace, and a little salt. Fry
the fish, cut in slices, of a light brown color
in fine oil, or clarified dripping; put them,
when cold, into a pan, pour over the vlnegar
and spices, and put on the top eight or ten
spoonfuls of oil. Solus may be done in this
way, only lay over them sliced onions instead
of shallot?.
SALMON, DRIED KIPPER. Cut the
fish up the back, and take out the bone; wipe
it very clean with a cloth; score it, and put a
handful of salt on each side, and let it lie
for three days; then hang it up to dry, and
it will be fit for use in two days, and eats
well with a little pepper put over it, and
broiled.
SALMON, DRIED, TO DRESS. Lay
it in soak for two or three hours, then broil
it, shaking a little pepper over it. Dried
salmon is eaten broiled in paper, and only
just warmed through; egg sauce and mashed
potatoes are usually served with it; or it
may be boiled, especially the bit next the
head.
SALMON, PICKLED. (1) Cut a
salmon into two or three pieces, put it in
a fish-kettle, and set it on the fire with a
sufficient quantity of water to cover it, and
plenty of salt; as soon as it begins to boil,
set it aside to simmer very gently until done;
then take it off the fire, and let it stand in
the liquor until cold, take it out, lay the
pieces close together in a tub to pickle, and
over them five anchovies, a small quantity
of pounded saltpetre, and a quarter of a


SAL
SAL
180
pint of sweet oil; being thus prepared, put
the top of the salmon liquor into a stewpan,
to which add the same quantity of white
wine vinegar; put it on the fire to skim,
and boil it for two or three minutes; take it
off, and let it cool. When cold, pour it
over the salmon and tie it down; in three
days turn it, and in a week's time it will
Ik fit for use; this is merely in a small way;
a great quantity bemg done at once, requires
neither oil nor anchovies. Serve garnished
with fenuel.
SALMON, PICKLED. (2) Cutthesal-
nton mto pieces; boil it as for eating, and lay
h on a dry cloth till the following day; botl
two quarts of good vinegar with one of the li-
quor the fish was boiled m, one ounce of whole
black pepper, half an ounce of allspice, and
four blades of mace. Put the salmon into
something deep, and pour over it the prepar-
ed vinegar when cold. A little sweet oil
put upon the top will make it keep a twelve-
month.
SALMON, PICKLED. (3) To a quart
of liquor the ftsh has been boiled in, put rath-
er more than half a pint of good vinegar, and
half an ounce of whole black pepper; boil
it, and when it is cold pour k over the fish,
previously laid in a deep dish.
SALMON, PICKLED, TO DRESS.
Soak a piece of pickled salmon all night
in pump-water; then lay it on a fish-plate,
and put it in a stewpan, with three spoon-
fuls of vinegar, a little mace, some whole
pepper in a bit of muslin, an onion, a nut-
meg bruised, a pint of white wine, a bunch
of sweet herbs, some parsley, lemon-peel,
and a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in
flour; cover the stewpan very close, and let
it simmer over a gentle fire for a quarter of
an hour; then take up the salmon, lay it in.
a dish, keep it hot before the fire; let the
sauce boil till it is of a proper consistence;
take out the spice, onion, and sweet herbs,
and serve the sauce over the fish.
SALMON, POTTED. Take ofT the
head; cut the salmon in thick slices; wipe it
dry, but do not wash it; pound half an ounce of
nutmeg, mace, and cloves, the least part of
cloves, half an ounce of white pepper, and
some salt; chop fine one onion, six bay-
leaves, and six anchovies; season each slice;
put it into a pan, with very thin slices of
butter between each layer; bake it, when
well done; drain off the butter, and, when
cold, pour over some clarifted butter.
SALMON, TO SALT. Cut the fish up
the back, and cut out the bone; wipe it
clean, and sprinkle it with salt; let it lay a
night to drain off the liquor; wipe it dry*
rub on it two or three ounces of pounded
saltpetre; cut it into pieces; pack it close in
a pot with a thick layer of salt between each
layer of fish. If the brine does not rise in
a few days, boil a strong one, and pour it,
when cold, upon the salmon, which must
always be covered wtth it.
SALMON, STEW. Clean and scrape
the fish; cut it into slices, and stew it in a
rich white gravy. A little before serving,
add two table-spoonfuls of soy, one of es-
sence of anchovy, and a little salt, some
chopped parsley and chtves.
SALMON, SPICED. Mix together, in
the proportion of one third of salt-and-water to
one pint of vinegar, one ounce of whole black
pepper, and one ounce of cinuamon. Cut
the salmon into slices, and boil it in this;
when cold, pack it close in a pan, and pour
over it the liquor it was boiled in, with the
spices, so as to cover it completely; cover
the pan closely, to exclude the air.
SALMON, MACKEREL, SPRATS,
HERRINGS, &c. ptckled. Cut the fish
into proper pieces; do not take off the scales;
make a brine strong enough to bear an egg,
in which boil the fish; it must be boiled in
only just liquor enough to cover it; do not
overboil it. When the fish is boiled, lay it
slantingly to dram off all the liquor; when
cold, pack it close in the kits, and fill them
up with equal parts of the liquor the salmon
was boiled in (having first well skimmed it),
and liest vinegar: let them rest for a day;
fill up again, striking the sides of the kit with
a cooper's adz, until the kit will receive no
more, then head them down as close as pos-
sible.
06s.—This is in the finest condttion
when fresh. Some sprigs of fresh-gathered
young fenuel are the accompaniments.
N. B.—The three indispensable marks
of the goodness of pickled salmon are, 1st,
The brightness of the scales, and their stick-
ing fast to the skin; 2dly, The firmness of
the flesh; and, 3dly, Its fine, pale-red rose
color. Without these it is not fit to eat,
and was either stale before it was pickled,
or has been kept too long after.
The above was given us as the actual
practice of those who pickle it for the Lon-
don market.
N. B.—Pickled salmon warmed by steam,
or in its pickle liquor, is a favorite dish at
Newcastle.
SALOOP. Boil a little water, wine,
lemon-peel, and sugar, together; then mix
with a small quantity of the powder, pre-
viously rubbed smooth, in a little cold water;


SAL
SAN
181
stir the wholfi well together, and boil for a
few minutes.
SALPICON. This is a mixture compo-
sed of various articles, such as sweetbreads,
fat livers, tongue, ham, champignons, truf-
fles, &c., previously dressed, cut into dice,
and cooked in some rich sauce, and seasoned
with pepper, salt, nutmeg, cloves, shallots,
sweet herbs, and a little butter; take care
that all the articles are sufficiently boiled be-
fore thev are cut up. Many things, such as
beef-pafate, fowl, cocks'-combs, indeed al-
most any article you please, may be added to
the above.
SALT, Is as Plutarch calls it, sauce
for sauce.
Common salt is more relishing than bas-
ket salt; it should be prepared for the table
by drying it in a Dutch oven before the fire;
then put it on a clean paper, and roll it with
a rolling pin; if you pound it in a mortar
till it is quite fine, it will look as well as
basket salt.
Select for table-use the lumps of
salt.
Obs.—Your salt-box must have a close
cover, and be kept in a dry place.
SALT, SPICED. Take four drachms
of grated nutmeg, the same of cloves, two
of white pepper, two of allspice, two of
mace, two of bay-leaf, two of basil, and
two of thyme (these three latter articles
should be dried m an oven). Put these all
into a mortar, and pound them to an impal-
pable powder, and sift it. Take a pound
of fine white salt, dry it thoroughly in an
oven, or stove, pound it as fine as possible;
sift, and mix with it an ounce of the above
mentioned spices; amalgamate them thor-
oughly, keep the spiced salt in a tin box,
which will shut perfectly close. Use it in
the following proportion: four drachms to a
pound of boned veal.
SALTING MEAT. In the summer
season, especially, meat is frequently spoiled
by the cook forgetting to take out the ker-
nels; one in the udder of a round of beef, in
the fat in the middle of the round, those
about the thick end of the flank, &e.: if
these are not taken out, all the salt in the
world will not keep the meat.
The art of salting meat is to rub in the
salt thoroughly and evenly into every part,
and to fill all the holes full of salt where the
kernels were taken out, and where the butch-
er's skewers were.
A round of beef of 25 pounds will take a
pound and a half of salt to be rubbed in all
at first, and requires to be turned and rubbed
•very day with the brine; it will be ready
for dressing in four or five days, if you do
not wish it very salt.
In summer, the sooner meat is salted after
it is killed, the better; and care must be
taken to defend it from the flies.
In winter, it will eat the shorter and
tenderer, if kept a few days (according to
the temperature of the weather) until its
fibre has become short and tender, as these
changes do not take place after it has been
acted upon by the salt.
In frosty weather, take care the meat is
not frozen, atrd warm the salt in a frying-
pan. The extremes of heat and cold are
equally unfavorable for the process of salting.
In the former, the meat changes before the
salt can affect it: in the latter, it is so har-
dened, and its juices are so congealed, that
the salt cannot penetrate it.
If you wish it red, rub it first with salt-
lietre, in the proportion of half an ounce, and
the like quantity of moist sugar, to a pound
of common salt.
You may impregnate meat with a very
agreeable vegetable flavor, by pounding some
sweet herbs, and an onion with the salt.
You may make it still more relishing by ad-
ding a little zest or savory spice.
SALT PORK, BOILED. See Bacon.
SAMPHIRE, TO DRY, OR PRE-
SERVE. Take it in bunches as it grows;
set a large deep stewpan full of water on the
fire; as soon as it boils, throw in a little
salt, and put in the samphire; when it looks
of a fine green, remove the pan directly from
the fire, and take out the samphire with a
fork; lay k on sieves to drain; when cold,
lay it on earthen plates, strew sugar well
over it, next day turn diem on a sieve, and
strew it again with sugar, keep turning dai-
ly until it is dry; take care the stove is not
too hot.
SAMPHIRE, TO PICKLE. Lay some
samphire that is green in a pan, sprinkle
over it two or three handfuls of salt, and
cover it with spring water, and let it lay for
twenty-four hours; then put it into a urge
brass saucepan; throw in a handful of salt;
cover the pan close, and set it over a very
slow fire; let it stand till it is quite green,
and crisp; then take it off, for if it becomes
soft it is spoiled; put it into a jar, cover it
close, and when it is cold, tie it down.
SANDWICHES FOR TRAVEL-
LERS. Spread butter, very thinly, upon
the upper part of a stale loaf of bread cut
very smooth, and then cut off the slice; now
cut off another thin slice, but spread it with
butter on the under side, without which pre-
caution the two ilieei of bread will not fit


SAUCES 182
SAUCES
one another. Next take some cold beef, or
ham, and cut it into very minute particles.
Sprinkle these thickly over tlie butter, and,
having added a little mustard, put the slices
face to face, and press them together. Last-
ly, cut tlie whole into four equal portions,
each of which is to be wrapped in a separate
piece of paper.
- SANDWICHES. (1) Cut some bread
into thin slices, pare off the crust, and spread
a little butter on them; cut them nicely into
oblong pieces, put between each some bits
of fowl, and then thin bits of ham, both nice-
ly trimmed; add a little mustard and salt.
Any cold roasted or potted meat may be used.
Serve them for luncheon, garnished with
curled parsley.
SANDWICHES, (2) Properly prepar-
ed, are an elegant and convenient luncheon
or supper, but have got out of fashion, from
the bad manuer in which they are common-
ly made: to cut the bread neatly with a
sharp knife seems to be considered tlie only
essential, and the linmg is composed of any
offal odds and ends, that canuot be sent to
table in any other form. Whatever is used
must be carefully trimmed from every bit of
skin, grtstle, &c. and nothing introduced
but what you are absolutely certain will be
acceptable to the mouth.
SANDWICHES, CAKE. Cut a sponge
cake, a few days old, as for bread sand-
wiches, and spread strawberry jam or cur-
rant jelly over them.
SAUCE. (1) Few things require more
care than making sauces, as most of them
should be stirred constantly, the whole atten-
tion should be directed to them; the better
way therefore, is to prepare the sauces before
cooking those articles which demand equal
care; they may be kept hot in the bain-
marie.
Butter, and those sauces containing eggs,
ought never to boil.
The thickest stewpans should be used for
making sauces, and wooden-spoons used
for stirring them.
SAUCE. (2) Mix together a pint of
vinegar, two shallots or heads of garlic, a
tea-spoonful of cayenue, three large table-
spoonfuls of Indian soy or mushroom ketch-
up, and two of walnut pickle. Let it stand
a week, shaking it daily; strain, and bottle
it for use.
FOR ANY SORT OF MEAT.
Boil and strain three table-spoon fus of gra-
vy, two of vinegar, a blade of mace, a little
pepper, salt, and a large' sliced onion.
——- ANCHOVY. Pound three atr-
chovies in a mortar with a little bit of but-
ter; rub it through a double hair sieve with
the back of a wooden spoon, and stir it into
almost half a pint of melted butter; or slk.
in a table-spoonful of essence of aucho")
To the above, many cooks add lemon-juioA
and cayenue.
APPLE. (1) Pare, core, an#
slice some apples; boil them in water, with
a bit of lemon-peel; when tender, mash them,
add to them a bit of butter the size of s
walnut, and some brown sugar. Heat, and
serve in a sauce-tureen.
APPLE. (2) Pare and core
three good-sized baking apples; put them
into a well-tinued pint saucepan, with two
table-spoonfuls of cold water; cover the
saucepan close, and set it on a trivet over a
slow fire a couple of hours before thnuer
(some apples will take a long time stewing,
others will be ready in a quarter of an hour):
when the apples are done enough, pour off
the water, let them stand a few minutes ta
get dry; then beat them up with a fork,
with a bit of butter about as big as a nut-
meg, and a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar
N. B.—Some add lemon-peel, grated, ot
minced fine, or lwil a bit with the apples.
ATTELETS. Take of finely.
minced parsley, mushrooms, and shallots, a
table-spoonful each; fry them with a little but-
ter, and then dredge in a little flour; moisten
the mixture with some good stock, season
it with pepper and salt, and boil it till it
begins to thicken; then take it off the fire,
and add the well-beaten yolks of two or
three eggs. Stir it well all the time it is
making.
BEEF-GRAVY, or Brown
Sauce for Ragout, Game, Poultry,
Fish, Sec. If you want gravy immediately,
see Potato Soup, or Glaze. If you have
time enough, furnish a thick and well-tinued
stewpan with a thin slice of salt pork, or an
ounce of butter, and a middling-sized onion;
on this lay a pound of nice, juicy gravy
beef, (as the object in making gravy is to
extract the nutritious succulence ,f the meat,
it must be beaten to comminute the contain-
ing vessels, and scored to augment the sur-
face to the action of the water); cover the
stew pan, and set it on a slow fire; when
the meat begins to brown, turn it abouti
and let it get slightly browned (but take
care it is not at all burned): then pour in a
pint and a half of boiling water; set the
pan on the f,re; when it boils, carefully
catch the scum, and then put in a crust of
bread toasted brown (don't burn it) a


SAUCES
SAUCES
183
sprig of winter savory, or lemon thyme and
parsley—a roll of thin cut lemon-peel, a doz-
uerries of allspice, and a dozen of black
pepper. Cover the stewpan close, and let
it stew very gently for about two hours,
then strain it through a sieve into a basin.
Now, if you wish to thicken it, set a clean
stewpan over a slow fire, with about an
ounce of butter in it; when it is melted,
dredge to it, by degrees, as much flour as
will dry it up, stirring them well together;
when thoroughly mixed, pour in a little
gravy—stir it well together, and add the re-
mainder by degrees; set it over the fire, let
it simmer gently for fifteen minutes longer,
skim off the fat, &c. as it rises; when it is
about as thick as cream, squeeze it through
a tamis or fine sieve—and you will have a
fine rich Brown Sauce, at a veiy moderate
expense, and without much trouble.
. FOR BOILED BEEF. Mince
a large onion, parboil it, and drain off the
water; put the onion into a saucepan, with
a table-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
some good gravy, and one ounce of butter
dredged with a little flour. Let tt boil
nearly ten minutes, and add a spoonful of
cut capers, which must be thoroughly heat-
ed before the sauce is served.
BROWN. Take a pound or
two of steaks, two or three pounds of veal,
some pickings of fowl, carrots, and onions,
put all these into a saucepan with a glass
of water, a itd set it on a brisk fire; when
scarcely any moisture remains, put it on a
slow fire, that the jelly may take color with-
out burning; and as soon as it is brown,
moisten it with stock (or water)i add a
bunch of parsley and green onions, two bay-
leaves, two cloves, and some champignons,
«alt it well, and set it on the fire for throe
hours, then strain; dilute a little roux with
your liquor, and boil it an hour o ier a gentle
fire, take off all the fat, and run tt through
a bolting.
BONNE BOUCHE, FOR
Goose, Dock, or roast Pork. Mix
a tea-spoonful of made mustard, a salt-spoon-
ful of salt, and a few grains of cayenue, in a
large wine-glassful of claret or Port wine;
pour it into the goose by a slit in the apron
|ust before serving up; or, as all the com-
pany may not like it, stir it into a quarter
of a pint of thick melted butter, or thicken-
ed gravy, and send it up in a boat. A fa-
vorite relish for roast pork or geese, &c. is,
two ounces of leaves of green sage, an ounce
of fresh lemon-peeI pared tliin, same of salt,
mmced eschalot, and half a drachm of
ctyenue pepper, ditto of citric acid, steeped
for a fortnight in a pint of claret; shake it
up well every day; let it stand a day to set-
tle, and decant the clear liquor; bottle it,
and cork it close; a table-spoonful or more
in a quarter pint of gravy, or melted butter.
BREAD. (1) Boil, in a pint of
water, the crumb of a French roll or of a
slice of bread, a minced onion, and some
whole pepper. When the onion is tender,
drain off the water, pick out the pepper-
corns, and rub the bread through a sieve;
then put it into a saucepan, with a gill of
cream, a bit of butter, and a little salt.
Stir i*. till it boil, and serve it in'a sauce-
tureen.
BREAD. <2) Mix, in rather
more than half a pint of milk or water, a
slice of grated bread, a dessert-spoonful of
potato flour, a small onion pounded, a bit of
butter the size of a walnut, a few whole
pepper corns, a little mace, and salt. Boil
it well, pick out the spices, and mix it
smooth. Serve quite hot.
BREAD. (3) Put a small
tea-i.u,.ful of bread crumbs into a stewpan,
pour on it as much milk as it will soak up,
and a little more; or instead of the milk,
take the giblets, head, neck, and legs, &c.
of the poultry, &c. and stew them, and
moisten the bread with this liquor; put it on
the fire with a middling-sized onion, and a
dozen berries of pepper or allspice, or a lit-
tle mace; let it boil, then stir it well, and
let it simmer till it is quite stiff, and then
put to it about two table-spoonfuls of cream
or melted butter, or a little good broth;
take out the onion and pepper, and it is
ready.
Obn.—This is an excellent accompani-
ment to game and poultry.
FOR BOILED MEAT, Game,
and Poultry. Bruise the yolks of two
hard-boiled eggs with a little water and salt;
bone one anchovy, and mince it, a small on-
ion, two shallots, a little parsley and tarra-
gon, and a few capers; mix them with the
egg, add a table-spoonful of fine oil, a little
mustard, two table-spoonfuls of lemon, and
one of tarragon vinegar; mix all exceed-
ingly well together, put it into a sauce-tu-
reen, and serve it wtth the broil; or it may
be served with cold veal.
CAPER. To make a quarter
of a pint, take a table-spoonful of capers,
and two tea-spoonfuls of vinegar.
The present fashion of cutting capers H
to mince one-third of them very fine, and
divide the others in half; put them into a
s quarter of a pint of melted butter, or good
I tfr.ickened gravy; stir tltem the same way


SAUCES 134 SAUCES
as yon did the melted butter, or it will oil.
Some boil, and mince fine a few leaves of
pm'sley, or chervil, or tarragon, and add
tltt-Mi io the .-at«i'; others tin-jutce uf halt'
a Set die orange, or lemon.
Keep H,p caper bottle vety closely cotkcd,
and do nut tw any of the cal«r ltquor: it'
lbe capers are not well covered with it, they
will nnmrdt.uclv spoil; and it is an excel-
lent ingredient m hashes, &c. The Dutch
use it as a fish sauce, mixing it with melted
butter.
CARRIER. Scrape a small
stick of horse-radish, cut an onion or two
in thin slices, put lhese into a sauce-tureen
with a little vinegar and whole pepper; set
the tmcen in the dripping-pan under a
shoulder of mutton whilst roasting; serve
this sauce quite hot with the meat.
CELERY, WHITE. Pick and
wash two heads of nice white celery; cut it
into pieces about an inch long; stew it in a
pint of water, and a ten-spoon fui of salt, till
the celery is lender; roll an ounce of butter
with a table-spoonful of flour; add this to
half a pint of cream, and give it a boil up.
CELERY PUREE, for boiled
Turkey, Veal, Fowls, §ic. Cut small
half a dozen heads of nice white celery that
is quite clean, and two onions sherd; put
in a two-quart stew pan, Vvith a small lump
of butter: sweat them over a slow lire till
quite tender, then put in two spoonfuls of
flour, half a pint of water (or Ixief or veal
broth), salt and pepper, and a little cream or
milk; boil it a quarter of an hour, and pass
through a fine hair sieve with the back of a
spoon. If you wish for celery sauce when
celery is not in season, a quarter of a drachm
of celery seed, or a little essence of celery,
will impregnate half a pint of sauce with a
sufficient portion of the flavor of the vege-
table.
CHESTNUT, FOR ROAST
TURKEY. Scald a pound of good chest-
nuts in hot water for five minutes, Fkin them,
and stew them slowly for two hours in white
stock, seasoned and thickened wtth butter
and flour. Cut a pound of pork sausages
into bits about an inch long, dust them with
flour, and fry them a light brown; lay them
into the dish on which the turkey is to be
served, and pour the chestnuts and sauce
over them. Some people prefer the fried
sausages stewed a little with the chestnuts;
but this meJtod makes the sauce of a darker
color.
nicely-cleaned currants, add three table*
spoonfuls of grated bread, a piece of bultef
the size of a walnut, four cloves, and a glass
of Port wine; stir it till it boil, and serve it
hot.
CURRY, Is made hy stirring a
sufftcient quantity of curry powder, into gra-
vy or melted butter, or onion .auce, or on ton
gravy. The compositions of curry powder,
and the palates of those who eat it, vary so
much, that we canuot recommend any spe-
cific quantity. The cook must add it by
degrees, tasting as she proceeds, and take
care not to put in too much.
DUTCH. (1) Beat up the yolks
of six eggs, mix in a little flour, cream, salt,
and lemon vinegar. Strain it through a
sieve, add a small piece of fresh butter, two
blades of pounded mace,and a lhtle pepper.
Put it into a saucepan, and stir it till it
is almost boiling.
DUTCH. (2) Put into a stewpan
a tea-spoonful of flour, four table-spoonfu's of
elder vinegar, a quarter of a pound of fresh
butter, the yolks of five eggs, and a little
salt; keep stirring it over the fire, and work
it well till thick. If it be not curdled, it
will not require to be strained. Season
with pepper.
DUTCH, for Ftsh or Botl-
ed Fowls. Mix, with two ounces of
fresh butter, one tea-spoonful of flour, two
table-spoonfuls of cold water, the same
quantity of vinegar, and one well-beaten
egg; put it into a saucepan, and stir it over
the fire till it be quite hot, but do not allow
it to boil.
EGG. (1) This agreeable accom-
paniment to roasted poultry, or salted fish,
is made by putting three eggs into boiling
water, and boiling them for about twelve
minutes, when they will be hard; put them
into cold water till you want them. This
will make the yolks firmer, and prevent
their surface turning black, and you can cut
them much neater: .use only two of the
whites, cut the whites into small dice, the
yolks into bits about a quarter of an inch
square; put them into a sauce-boat; pour
to them half a pint of melted butter, and
stir them together.
If you are for superlative egg sauce,
pound the yolks of a couple of eggs, and rub
them with the melted butter to thicken tt.
N. B.—Some cooks garnish salt fish wtth
hard-boiled eggs cut in half.
CURRANT, FOR VENISON.
Boil in water for a few minutes an ounce of
EGG. (2) Boil three or four
eggs about a quarter of an hour, put them


SAUCES 185 SAUCES
into cold water, take off the shells, cut three
of the whites and four yolks into small
pteces, mix them with melted butter, and
heat it well.
ESCHALOT. Take four es-
chalots, and make it in the same manuer as
garlic sauce. Or, you may make this sauce
more extemporaneously by putting two table-
spoonfuls of eschalot wine, and a sprinkling
of pepper and salt, into (almost) half a pint
of thick melted butter. This is an excellent
sauce for chops or steaks; many are very
fond of it with roasted or botled meat,
poultry, &c.
ESCHALOT, FOR BOIL-
ED MUTTON. This is a very frequent
and satisfactory substitute for caper sauce.
Mince four eschalots very fine, and put them
into a small saucepan, with almost half a pint
of the liquor the mutton was boiled in: let
them boil up for five minutes; then put in a
table-spoonful of vinegar, a quarter tea-spoon-
ful of pepper, a little salt, and a bit of butter
(as big as a walnut) rolled in flour; shake
together till it boils.
E3CAVEKE SAUCE, for
Cold Game, Fowl, or Meat. Beat,
in a marble mortar, the following ingredients;
five cloves of garlic, six cloves of shal-
lot, as much pounded ginger as will tie upon
a sixpence, and the same of cayenue, a ta-
ble-spoonful of coriander seed, and a little
salt. Pour upon them, boiling hot, a pint
of the best white wme vinegar; add the peel
of a lemon, cut very thin. When cold, put
the whole into a bottle, cork it tightly, and
shake it well before using.
FOR FISH. (1) The melted
fnttter for fish, should be thick enough to ad-
here to the fish, and, therefore, must be of tlte
thickness of light batter, as it is to lie dilut-
ed with essence of anchovy, soy, mushroom
ketchup, cayenne, or Chili vinegar, lemons
or lemon-juice, or artificial lemon-juice, &c.
which are expected at all well-served tables.
Cooks, who are jealous of the reputation of
thetr taste, and housekeepers who value their
health, will prepare these articles at home:
there are quite as many reasons why they
should, as there are for the preference usually
given to home-baked bread, and home-brew-
ed beer. The liver of the fish pounded and
mixed with parsley and butter, with a little
Jemon-juice, &c. is an elegant and inoffensive
relish to fish.
FOR FISH. (2) Two wine-glass-
es of Port, and two of walnut pickle, fuur of
mushroom ketchup, half a dozen anchovies,
oounded, the like number of eschalots sltced
asd pounded, a table-spoonful of soy, and
half a drachm of cayenue pepper; let them
simmer gently for ten minutes; strain it, and
when cold, put it into bottles, well corked,
and sealed over, it will keep for a considera-
ble tune.
Obs.—'This is commonly called Quin's
sauce.
FOR FISH. (3) A taole-
spoonfltl of anchovy juice, one of soy, and
two of mushroom ketchup, mixed in a quar-
ter of a pound of melted butter.
FOR FISH. (4) Three ancho-
vies and an onion chopped, and a small bit
of horseradish boiled in some stock, then
strained, and thickened with a piece of but-
ter rolled in flour.
FOR FISH. (5) Boil in half a
pint of water one or two anchovies, two
cloves, a Hade of mace, a bit of lemon-peel,
a few peppercorns, and two table-spoonfuls
of Port wine; strain and thicken it with a
piece of butter rolled in flour.
FOR FISH. (6) Mix well with
two ounces of melted butter, of mushroom
ketchup, essence of anchovies, and lemon
pickle, a table-spoonful each, a tea-spoonful
of soy, and a little cayenue. Boil it before
serving.
FOR FISH. (7) Chop two dozen
of whole anchovies, mix with them half a
pint of anchovy liquor, two shallots cut small,
and three pints of Port wine, one of vinegar,
one lemon sliced, one handful of scraped
horseradish, and ten blades of mace, one
nutmeg, twelve peppercorns, six cloves, all
bruised, and one table-spoonful of flour of
mustard. Boil these together about fifteen
or twenty minutes; when cold, strain and
bottle it, waxing the corks. It will keep
good a year. A table-spoonful improves
oyster sauce, and that quantity is sufficient
for a sauce-tureen of melted butter.
FOR FISH. (8) A quart of Port
wine, half a pint of best vinegar, one pound
of bruised anchovies, one ounce of mace and
one of cloves, half an ounce of pepper, one
large onion, and the peel of one lemon; boil
all these ingredients together, over a slow
fhe, till a pint is wasted; then strain, and
bottle it, and keep it closely stopped.
FISH OR MEAT SAUCE,TO MAKE
A QUART BOTTLE OF. To half a
bottle of vinegar put one ounce of cayenne,
two cloves of garlic, one table-spoonful of
soy, two of walnut, and two of mushroom
ketchup. Let it stand six days, shaking it
16*


SAUCES 186 SAUCES
frequently, then add the remaining half of
the bottle of vinegar; let it stand another
week, strain, and put it into small bottles.
WHITE, FOR FISH. Four
anchovies chopped, two glasses of white
wine, a large one of vinegar, an onion stuck
with three cloves, and cut into quarters; let
all these simmer till the anchovies dissolve;
strain it, anit add a quarter of a pound of
butter kneaded in a table-spoonful of flour.
When it has melted, stir in gradually, one
way, half a pint of cream, taking care that
it do not boil. When thoroughly heated,
serve in a sauce-tureen.
LIVER, FOR FISH. Boil the
liver of the ftsh, and pound it in a mortar
with a little flour; stir it into some broth,
or some of the liquor the fish was boiled in,
or melted butter, parsley, and a few grains
of cayenue, a little essence of anchovy, or
soy, or ketchup; give it a boil up, and rub
it through a sieve: yon may add a little lem-
on-juice, or lemon cut in dice.
PINK, FOR FISH. Put into a
pan, or wide-mouthed jar, one quart of good
vinegar, half a pint of Port wine, half an
ounce of cayenne, one large table-spoonful
of walnut ketchup, two ditto of anchovy
liquor, a quarter of an ounce of cochineal,
and six cloves of garlic. Let it remain forty
hours, stirring it two or three times a-day;
run it through a flanuel bag, and put it into
half-pint bottles.
FOR PIKE. Mix with a pint
of cream a table-spoonful of anchovy sauce,
the same of soy, and two of ketchup, a
piece of butter rolled in flour; put it into a
saucepan, and stir it one way till nearly
boiling.
WHITE, FOR PIKE. Simmer
till half wasted, two table-spoonfuls of white
wine, one of vinegar, half a small onion, and
some grated nutmeg; add a piece of butter
rolled in flour, then a small tea-cupful of
cream; heat it thoroughly, stirring it all the
time, and taking care that it do not boil.
GREEN GOOSEBERRY. Boil
some green gooseberries in water till soft,
and sweeten them with brown sugar.
GOOSEBERRY. Top and tail
them close with a pair of scissors, and scald
half a pint of green gooseberries; drain them
on a hair sieve, and put them into half a
pint of melted butter. Some add grated
ginger and lemon-peel, and the French, min-
ted fenuel; others send up the gooseIierries
whole or mashed, without any butter, &c.
GOOSE STUFFING. Chop
very fine an ounce of onion and half an ounce
of green sage leaves; put them into a stew-
pan with four spoonfuls of water; stmmer
gently for ten minutes; then put in a tea-
spoonful of pepper and salt, and one ounce
of fine bread crumbs; mix well together;
then pour to it a quarter of a pint of broth,
or gravy, or melted butter, stir well togeth-
er, and simmer it a few minutes longer.
GRANDE. Take three or four
slices from the under part of a knuckle of
veal, and put them into a large stewpan
with two ladlefuls of consomme, set it on a
fierce fire, taking care to skim it as much as
possible, and wtth a cloth wipe away all
that adheres to the inside of the stewpan;
when the consomme is reduced, prick the
slices with a knife to let out the gravy; then
set the stewpan on a slow fire, that the meat
and glaze may adhere together, and as soon
as the latter is of a clear light color, take it
off, leave it covered for ten minutes, then fill
it up with rich stock, in which is four or
five large carvots, and three onions; let it
boil slowly for two hours. In the meantime
put the knuckle into a saucepan with four or
five carrots, as many onions (one stuck with
cloves), and two ladlefuls of consomme;
set it on a brisk fire that the liquor may re-
duce to a jelly; as soon as this jelly begins
to take color, pour on it the liquor from the
other saucepan to dissolve the jelly gradual-
ly; then make it boil. Dilute some roux
with the above liquor, and add it to the meat
with some champignons, a bunch of parsley,
scallions, and two bay-leaves, skim it when
it begins to boil, and again when the roux
is added, put in more consomme or roux,
according as it is too thick or too thin.
When it has boiled an hour and a half,
take off all the fat; and when the meat is
quite done, strain the sauce through a bol-
ting-cloth.
GRILL. To half a pint of gravy,
add an ounce of fresh butter, and a table-
spoonful of flour, previously well rubbed to-
gether, the same of mushroom or walnut
ketchup, two tea-spoonfuls of lemon-juice,
one of made mustard, one of minced capers,
half a one of black pepper, a quarter of a
rmd of a lemon grated ver^ thin, a tea-
spoonful of essence of anchovtes, and a little
eschalot wine, or a very small piece of min-
ced eschalot, and a little Chili vinegar, or a
few grains of cayenne; simmer together for
a few minutes; pour a little of it over the
grill; and send up the rest in a sauce-tureen.
HARVEY. Chop twelve ancho-
vies, bones and all, very small, with one
ounce of cayenue pepper, six spoonfuls of


SAUCES 187 SAUCES
•oy, six ditto of good walnut pickle, three
heads of garlic, chopped not very small, a
quarter of an ounce of cochineal, two heads
of shallots, chopped not very small, one gal-
lon of vinegar; let it stand fourteen days,
stir it well, twice or thrice every day; then
pass it through a jelly-bag, and repeat this
till it is perfectly clear; then bottle it, and
tie a bladder over the cork.
HORSERADISH, TO EAT
wtth Hot or Cold Meat. Mix a tea-
spoonful of mustard, a table-spoonful of vin-
egar, and three of cream; add a little salt,
and as much finely-grated horseradish as
will make the sauce the consistence of
onion sauce.
FOR HASHES AND MADE
DISHES. A pint of Port wine, twelve
anchovies chopped, a quarter of a pint of
vinegar, as much beaten pepper as will lie
on half a crown, two or three cloves, a
blade or two of mace, a nutmeg bruised,
one small onion minced, two bay-leaves, a
little lemon thyme, marjoram, and parsley,
and a piece of horseradish about the length
of a finger split into quarters; put all into a
saucepan, and let it simmer till the ancho-
vies are dissolved; then strain it, and, when
cohl, bottle it for use.
FOR HASHED OR MINCED
VEAL. Take the bones of cold roast or
boiled veal, dredge them well with flour,
and put them into a stewpan with a pint
and a half of broth or water, a small onion,
a little grated or finely-minced lemon-peel,
or the peel of a quarter of a sumII lemon,
pared as thin as possible, half a tea-spoonful
of salt, and a blade of pounded mace; to
thicken it, rub a table-spoonful of flour into
half an ounce of butter; stir it into the
broth, and set it on the fire, and let it boil
very gently for about half an hour; strain
through a tamis or sieve, and it is ready to
put to the veal to warm up; which is to be
done by placing the stewpan by the side of
the fire. Squeeze in half a lemon, and cov-
er the bottom of the dish with toasted bread
sippets cut into triangles, and garnish the
dish with slices of ham or bacon.
FOR HASHES OF MUTTON
OR BEEF. Unless you are quite sure you
perfectly understand the palate of those you
are working for, show those who are to
eat the hash this receipt, and lieg of them to
direct you how they wish it seasoned.
Half the number of the ingredients enu-
merated will be more than enough: but as it
is a receipt so often wanted we have given
variety.
Chop the bones and fragments of the joint,
&c., and put them into a stewpan; cover
them with tailing water, six berries of
black pepper, the same of allspice, a small
bundle of parsley, half a head of celery cut
in pieces, and a small sprig of savory, or
lemon thyme, or sweet marjoram; cover up,
and let it simmer gently for half an hour.
Slice half an ounce of onion, and put it
into a stewpan with an ounce of butter; fry
it over a sharp fire for about a couple of
minutes, till it takes a little color; then stir
in as much flour as will make it a stiff
paste, and by degrees mix with it the gravy
you have made from the bones, &c.; let tt
boil very gently for about a quarter of an
hour, till it is the consistence of cream;
strain it through a tamis or sieve into a ba-
sin; put it back into the stewpan: to season
it, cut in a few pickled onions, or walnuts,
or a couple of gherkins, and a table-spoonful
of mushroom Ketchup, or walnut or other
pickle liquor; or some capers, and caper
liquor; or a tabte-spoonful of ale; or a little
eschalot, or tarragon vinegar; cover the bot-
tom of the dish with sippets of bread (that
they may I«come savory reservoirs of gra-
vy), which some toast and cut into triangles.
You may garnish it with fried bread sippets.
N. B.—To hash meat in perfection, it
should be laid in this gravy only just long
enough to get properly warm through.
Obs.—If any of tlte gravy that was sent
up with, or ran from the joint when it was
roasted, be left, it will be a great improve-
ment to the hash.
If you wish to make mock venison, instead
of the onion, put in two or three cloves, a
table-spoonful of currant jelly, and the same
quantity of claret or Port wine, instead of
the ketchup.
You may make a curry hash by adding
some curry jam.
N. B.—A pint of Beef-gravy Sauce is an
excellent gravy to warm up either meat or
poultry.
KELLY'S, FOR BOILED
Trtpe, Calf-head, or Cow-heel.
Garlic vinegar, a table-spoonful; of mustard,
brown sugar, and black pepper, a tea-spoon-
ful each; stirred into half a pint of oiled
melted butter.
KELLY'S FIQUANTE. Pound
a table-spoonful of capers, and one of minced
parsley, as fine as possible; then a,ld the
yolks of three hard eggs, rub them well to-
gether with a table-spoonful of mustard;
bone six anchovies, and pound them, rub
them through a hair sieve, and mix with two
table-spoonfuls of oil, one of vinegar, one of
eschalot ditto, and a few grains of cayenua
pepper; rub all these well together in a
mortar, till thoroughly incorpo"ated; then


SAUCES
SAUCES
188
■tir them into half a pint of good gr*vy, or
melted butter, and put the whole through a
sieve.
LEMON. Pare a lemon, and
cut it into slices twice as thick as a half-
crown piece; divide these into dice, and put
them into a quarter of a pint of melted but-
ter. Some cooks mince a bit of the lemon-
peel (pared very thin) very fine, and add it
to the above.
LEMON AND LIVER. Pare
off the rind of a lemon, or of a Seville orange,
as thin as posstble, so as not to cut off any
of the whtte with it; now cut off all the
white, and cut the lemon into slices about
as thick as a couple of half-crowns; pick out
the pips, and divide the slices into small
squares: add these, and a little of the peel
mmced very fine to the liver, prepared as
directed above, and put them into the melted
butter, and warm them together; but do not
let them boil.
N. B.—The poulterers can always let you
have fresh livers, if that of the fowl or rabbit
is not good, or not large enough to make as
much sauce as you wish.
Obs.—Some cooke, instead of pounding,
mince the liver very fine (with half as much
bacon), and leave out the parslev; others
add the juice of half a lemon, and7 some of
the peel grated, or a tea-spoonful of tarragon
or Chili vinegar, a table-spoonful of white
wine, or a little beaten mace, or nutmeg,
or allspice: if you wish it a little more lively
on the palate, pound an eschalot, or a few
leaves of tarragon or basil, with anchovy, or
ketchup, or cayenue.
LIVER AND PARSLEY, OR
LIVER AND LEMON. Wash the liver
(it must be perfectly fresh) of a fowl or rab-
bit, and boil it five minutes in five table-
spoonfuls of water; chop it fine, or pound
or bruise it in a small quantity of the liquor
it was boiled in, and rub it through a sieve:
wash about one-third the bulk of parsley
leaves, put them on to boil in a little boiling
water, with a tea-spoonful of salt in it; lay
it on a hair sieve to drain, and mince it very
fine; mix it with the liver, and put it into a
quarter pint of melted butter, and warm it
up; do not let it boil.
LOBSTER. (1) Bruise the body,
add it to some thick melted butter; pull the
flesh into small bits, and mix all together
with some rich beef gravy; boil it up, and
before serving add a little salt, and squeeze
in a little lemon-juice.
LOBSTER. (2) Pound very
finely the spawn of a lobster, rub it through
a sieve, mix it with a quarter of a pound
of melted butter, then add the meat of the
lobster cut into small bits. Make it quite
hot, but do not allow it to boil.
LOBSTER. See Lobster.
FOR LOBSTER. Bruise the
yolks of two hard-boiled eggs with the back
of a wooden spoon, or rather pound them in
a mortar, with a tea-spoonful of water, and
the soft inside and the spawn of the lobster;
rub them quite smooth, with a tea-spoonfm
of made mustard, two table-spoonfuls of
salad oil, and five of vinegar; season it with
a very little cayenue pepper, and some salt.
LOVE-APPLE, ACCORDING
TO UDE. Melt in a stewpan a- dozen or
two of love-apples (which, before putting in
the stewpan, cut in two, and squeeze the
juice and the seeds out); then put two es-
chalots, one onion, with a few bits of ham,
a clove, a little thyme, a bay-leaf, a few
leaves of mace, and when melted, rub them
through a tam is. Mix a few spoonfuls of
good Espagnole or Spanish sauce, and a
little salt and pepper, with this puree. Boil
it for twenty minutes, and serve up.
MINT. (1) Pick and wash
some green mint; add, when minced, a
table-spoonful of the young leaves, to four
of vinegar, and put it into a sauce-tureen,
with a tea-spoonful of brown sugar.
MINT. (2) Wash half a hand-
ful of nice, young, fresh-gathered green mint
(to this some add one-third the quantity of
parsley); pick the leaves from the stalks,
mince them very fine, and put them into a
sauce-boat, with a tea-spoonful of moist su-
gar, and four table-spoonfuls of vinegar.
MOCK CAPER. Cut some
pickled green pease, French beans, gherkins,
or nasturtinms, into bits the size bf capers;
put them into half a pint of melted butter,
with two tea-spoonfuls of lemon-juice, or
nice vinegar.
MOCK OYSTER. Put into a
saucepan two or three chopped anchovies, a
quarter of a pint of water, a little mace, and
one or two cloves; let them simmer till the
anchovies be quite dissolved. Strain it, and
when cool, add a tea-cupful of cream; thick-
en it with a piece of butter rolled in flour,
and heat it up. It may be poured over
boiled fowls or veal.
MOCK TOMATA. The only
difference between this and genuine love-
apple sauce, is the substituting the pulp of


SAUCES 189 SAUCES
apple for that of tomata, coloring it with
tumeric, and communicating an acid flavor
to it by vinegar.
MUSHROOM. Pick and peel
half a pint of mushrooms (the smaller the
better); wash them very clean, and put them
into a saucepan, with half a pint of veal
gravy or milk, a little pepper and salt, and
an ounce of butter rubbed with a table-spoon-
ful of flour; stir them together, and set them
over a gentle fire, to stew slowly till tender;
skim and strain it.
06s.—It will be a great improvement to
this, and the two following sauces, to add to
them the jutce of half a dozen mushrooms,
prepared the day before, by sprinkling them
with salt, the same as when you make ketch-
up; or add a large spoonful of good double
mushroom ketchup.
See, Quintessence of Mushrooms.
MUSHROOM, FOR BOILED
Turkey or Fowl. ^ Pick clean and
wash a pint of small mushrooms, rub them
with flanuel, put them into a saucepan with a
blade of mace, a little salt, grated nutmeg,
a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a pint
of cream, keep stirring them till they boil,
then pour them round the turkey, fowl, or
chicken.
WHITE ONION. The follow-
ing is a more mild and delicate preparation:
take half a dozen of the largest and whitest
onions (the Spanish are the mildest, but
these can only 1« had from August to De-
cember); peel them and cut diem in half,
and lay them in a pan of spring water for a
quarter of an hour, and then boil for a quar-
ter of an hour; and then, if you wish them
to taste very mild, pour oft' that water, and
cover them with fresh boiling water, and let
them boil till they are tender, which will
sometimes take three-quarters of an hour
longer.
ONION. Boil twelve or more
anions in water; when it boils, pour it oft',
add more hot water, and when the onions
are tender, strain and mash them in a bowl,
add a ptece of butter, a little salt, and one
or two spoonfuls of cream. Heat it before
serving. An apple may be boiled with the
onions.
ONION, OR ONION GRAVY.
Peel and slice the onions (some put in an
equal quantity of cucumber or celery) into a
quart stew pan, with an ounce of butter; set
it on a slow tire, and turn the onion about
till it is very lightly browned; now gradually
stir in half an ounce of flour; add a little
broth, and a little pepper and salt; boil up
for a few minutes; add a table-spoonful of
claret, or Port wine, and same of mush-
room ketchup, (you may sharpen it with a
little lemon-juice or vmegar), and rub it
through a tamis or fine sieve. Curry powder
will conveit this into excellent curry sauce.
N. B.—If this sauce is for steaks, shred
an ounce of onions, fry them a nice brown,
and put them to the sauce you have rubbed
through a tamis; or some very small, round,
young silver button onions, peeled and boil-
ed tender, and put in whole when your sauce
is done, will be an acceptable addition.
Obs.—If you have no broth, put in half a
pint of water, and just before you give it the
last boil up, add to it another table-spoonful
of mushroom ketchup, or the same quantity
of Poi t wine or good ale. The flavor of
this sauce may be varied by adding tarragon
or burnet vinegar.
ONION. See Onion.
ORANGE GRAVY, for wtld
Ducks, Woodcocks, Sntpes, Wtdg-
eon, Teal, &c. Set on a saucepan with
half a pint of veal gravy; add to it half a
dozen leaves of basil, a small onion, and a
roll of orange or lemon peel, and let it boil
up for a few minutes, and strain it off. Put
to the clear gravy the juice of a Seville or-
ange, or lemon, half a tea-spoonful of salt,
the same of pepper, and a glass of red wine;
send it up hot. Eschalot and cayenue may
be added. This is an excellent sauce for
all kinds of wild water-fowl.
Gravies should always be sent up in a
covered boat: they keep hot 'longer; and it
leaves it to the choice of the company to
partake of them or not.
OYSTER. See Oysters.
PIQUANT. Put a little chop-
ped shallot and a few spoonfuls of gravy in-
to a saucepan; let it boil till the gravy be
nearly boiled away, but not burned to the
bottom of the saucepan; add as much
braise as may be required for the sauce,
season with pepper and sult, boil it a few
minutes, then add a little lemon-juice, sugar,
and a tea-spoonful of garlic vinegar.
N. B.—Braise is an onion stuck wi d
cloves, and boiled till tender in gravy and
white wine.
PIQUANT, for cold Meat,
Game, Poultry, Pish, §ic. or Salads.
Pound in a mortar the yolks of two eggs
that have been boiled hard with a mustard-
spoonful of made mustard, and a little pep-
per and salt ; add two table-spoonfuls of sal-
ad oil; mix well, and then add three table .
spoonfuls of vinegar; rub it up well till it is


SAUCES
SAUCES
190
quite smooth, and pass it through a tamis or
sieve.
06s.—To the above, some add an an-
chovy, or a table-spoonful of mushroom
ketchup, or walnut pickle, some finely-chop-
ped parsley, grated horseradish, or young
onions minced, or burnet, horseradish or
tarragon, or elder vinegar, 8tc., and cay-
enue or mmced pickles, capers, &c. Thts
is a piquante relish for lobsters, crabs, cold
Bah, Sec.
SALAD OR PIQUANT, FOR
cold Meat, Ftsh, &c. Pound together
an ounce of scraped horseradish, half an
ounce of salt, a table-spoonful of made mus-
tard, four drachma of minced eschalots,
half a drachm of celery seed, and half ditto
of cayenue, adding gradually a pint of bur-
net, or tarragon vinegar, and let it stand in
a jar a week, and then pass it through a
sieve.
POIVRADE, FOR COLD
MEAT. (1) Chop finely six shallots and a
handful of picked and washed parsley; mix
with it a little vinegar, mustard, cayenue
s0me cold gravy, and salt.
POIVRADE, FOR COLD
MEAT. (2) Brutse the yolk of a hard-
boiled egg with a little salt and mustard,
oil, soy, chopped parsley, and chives, and
pour it over slices of any cold meat.
PUDDING. Mix with half a
pint of melted butter two wine-glasses of
sherry, and a table-spoonful of pounded
loaf sugar; make it quite hot, and serve in
a sauce-tureen, with grated nutmeg on the
top.
QUIN'S. (1) Half a pint of
mushroom pickle, the same of walnut pickle,
three whole and three pounded cloves of
garlic, six anchovies bruised, and a tea-
spoonful of cayenue. Mix all together in a
urge bottle, shake it daily for three weeks,
then strain, and bottle it for use.
QUIN'S. (2) One pint of
Port wine, one of mushroom ketchup, one
of walnut liquor, one of essence of ancho-
vies, and a tea-spoonful of cayenue; mix
all together, and boil it for a quarter of an
hour. If essence of anchovies, is not to be
had, boil half a pound of anchovies in a
quart of water till reduced to apint. Strain,
and use it.
REVEREND. Chop up some
lemon-peel, and two or three pickled cu-
cumbers; put them into a stewpan with
two spoonfuls of cuiiis, a little butter iolled
in flour, season with sait and pepper, pu|
tt on the fire, and make it quite hot without
boiling, stirring all the time, make a ltatson
with yolks of eggs, and serve.
RICE. Steep a quarter of a
pound of rice in a pint of milk, with onion,
pepper, &c. as in the last receipt; when
the rice is quite tender (take out the spice):
rub it through a sieve into a clean stewpan:
if too thick, put a little milk or cream to it.
Obs.—This is a very delicate white
sauce; and at elegant tables is frequently
served instead of bread sauce.
FOR ROAST BEEF. (1) Mix
well together a large table-spoonful of
finely-grated horseradish, a dessert-spoon-
ful of made mustard, and half a one of
brown sugar, then add vinegar till it I e as
thick as made mustard. Serve in a sauce
tureen.
FOR BJOAST BEEF. (2) Put
into a stone jar one gill of soy, two of vine-
gar, two of water, a good-sized stick of
horseradish, and two sliced onions. Cover
the jar closely, and set it into a pan of cold
water; when it boils, let it simmer for two
or three hours.
ROBART, for Beef Steaks
or Mutton Chops. Put into a saucepan
a little gravy, two ounces of butter dredged
with flour, a small slice of raw ham, and
two or three minced onions; when the on-
ions are browned, dust in a little more
flour, and add nearly a pint of gravy, a lit-
tle salt and pepper, a tea-spoonful of mus-
tard, and a table-spoonful of vinegar. Boil
it for some minutes, strain and serve it.
SALAD. (1) Bruise the yolk
of a hard-boiled egg with a small tea-spoon-
ful of salt, then add a dessert-spoonful of
mustard, and stir in gradually a large table-
spoonful of olive oil, oiled butter, or cream,
then by degrees mix in two or three table-
spoonfuls of vinegar; serve it in a sauce-
tureen, or mix it with the salad. Instead
of the hard egg, some persons prefer the
sauce made with the yolk raw.
— SALAD. (2) Rub smooth a
hard-boiled egg, beat well a raw egg, and
mix them together with a little water, a
tea-spoonful of salt, one of cayenue, one of
pepper, and one of mustard, a table-spoon-
ful of vinegar, one of essence of anchovies,
and five of' rich cream.
The aitist, as he styled himself, who in-
vented this salad sauce drove in his carriage
to his employers, and charged them ten shil-
lings and sixpence for each visitl


SAUCES
SAUCES
191
SAUCES. See also Gravy, page 89.
SHALLOT. (1) Boil a few minc-
ed shallots in a little clear gravy and nearly
as much vinegar, add a few peppercorns and
a little salt. Strain, and serve tt in a sauce-
tureen.
SHALLOT. (2) Take two spoon-
fuls of the liquor the meat was boiled in, two
spoonfuls of vinegar, two or three shallots cut
fine, and a little salt; put these ingredients
into a saucepan, with a bit of butter rolled
in flour; let it stew a little, and serve it up
with your mutton or beef.
SHARP, FOR VENISON.
Put into a silver, or very clean and well-
tinued saucepan, half a pint of the best
white wine vinegar, and a quarter of a
pound of loaf-sugar pounded: set it over the
fire, and let it simmer gently; skim it care-
fully; pour it through a tam is or fine sieve,
and send it up in a basin.
Obs.—Some people like this better than
the sweet wine sauces.
SHRIMP. (1) Pick some shrimps
nicely from the shell, put them into melted
butter, add a table-spoonful of lemon pickle
and vinegar; heat it.
SHRIMP. (2) Shell a pint of
shrimps; pick them clean, wash them, and
put them into half a pint of good melted
butter. A pint of unshelled shrimps is about
enough for four persons.
Obs.—Some stew the heads and shells
of the shrimps, (with or without a blade
of bruised mace), for a quarter of an hour,
and strain off the liquor to melt the butter
with, and add a little lemon-juice, cayenne,
and essence of anchovy, or soy, cavice,
&c.; but the flavor of the shrimp is so deli-
cate, diat it will be overcome by any such
additions.
Mem.—If your shrimps are not quite
fresh, they will eat tough and thready, as
other stale ftsh do.
SORREL. (1) Pick and wash
some sorrel, put it into a stewpan with a lit-
tle water, stir it, to prevent its burning, and
when it is tender, drain and mince it finely;
fry it for half an hour in a stewpan with a
l,ttle butt*r, then dredge in a table-spoonful
of flour, moisten it with boiling cream, and
let it stew on a slow fire for an hour; add a
little salt, and if too acid, a little sugar.
Before serving, thicken with the beaten yolks
of four eggs.
SORREL. (2) Pick and thor-
oughly wash two double handfuls of young
sorrel, well drain it from water, and then put
it into a stewpan, well covered with a bit of
butter, and let it stew very gently over a slow
fire; when done, put it to drain on a sieve for
three minutes, then, with a wooden spoon,
rub it through a tammy into a dish; put it
into a stewpan, with a bit of butter, stir-
ring it over the fire till thoroughly mixed;
you may add, if you choose, three spoon-
fuls of good consomme, and when it has
boiled for a few minutes, add to it half as
much cream sauce as there is sorrel, and if
necessary season with a little salt; this is
proper for a fricandeau of veal or entrees
of fish.
SUPERLATIVE. Claret, or
Port wine, and mushroom ketchup, a pint oi
each. Haifa pint of walnut or other pickle
liquor. Pounded anchovies, four ounces.
Fresh lemon-peel, pared very thin, an ounce.
Peeled and sliced eschalots, the same.
Scraped horseradish, ditto. Allspice, and
black pepper powdered, half an ounce each.
Cayenue, one drachm, or curry-powder,
three drachms. Celery-seed bruised, one
drachm. All avoirdupois weight. Put
these into a wide-mouthed bottle, stop it
close, shake it up every day for a fortnight,
and strain it (when same think it improved
by the addition of a quarter of a pint of soy,
or thick browning), and you will have a
"delicious double reltsh." Dr. Kitchiner
says, this composition is one of the "chefs
d'eeuvre " of many experiments he has made,
for the purpose of enabling the good house-
wives of Great Britain to prepare their own
sauces: it is equally agreeable with fish,
game, poultry, or ragouts, &c., and as a
fair lady may make it herself, its relish will
lie not a little augmented, by the certainty
that all the ingredients are good and whole-
some.
Obs.—Under an infinity of circumstances,
a cook may be in want of the substances ne- •
cessary to make sauce: the above composi-
tion of the several articles from which the
various gravies derive their flavor, will be
found a very admirable extemporaneous sub-
stitute. By mixing a huge table-spoonful
with a quarter of a pint of thickened melted
butter, or broth, five minutes will finish a
boat of very relishing sauce, nearly equal to
drawn gravy, and as likely to put your lin-
gual nerves into good humor as any thing 1
know.
To make a boat of sauce for poultry, &c.
put a piece of butter about as big as an egg
into a stewpan, set it on the fire; when it
is melted, put to it a table-spoonful of flour;
stir it thoroughly together, and add to it
two table-spoonfuls of sauce, and by degrees
about half a pint of broth, or boiling water,
let it simmer gently over a slow fire for a


SAUCES
SAUCES
192
few minutes, skim it and strain it through a
sieve, and it is ready.
FOR STEAKS, CHOPS, OR
CUTLETS. Take your chops out of tlte
frying-pan; for a pound of meat keep a ta-
ble-spoonful of the fat in the pan, or put in
about an ouncejjf butter; put to it as much
flour as will make it a paste; rub it well
together over the fire till they arc a little
brown; then add as much boiling water as
will reduce it to the thickness of good cream,
and a table-spoonful of mushroom or walnut
ketchup, or pickle, or browning; let it boil
together a few minutes, and pour it through
a sieve to the steaks, Sec.
Obs.—To tite above is sometunes added
a sliced onion, or a minced eschalot, with
a table-spoonful of Port wine, or a little
eschalot wine. Garnish with finely-scraped
horseradish, or pickled walnuts, gherkins,
&c. Some beef-eaters like chopped escha-
lots in one saucer, and horseradish grated
in vinegar, in another. Broiled mushrooms
are favorite relishes to beef steaks.
SWEET, FOR VENISON OR
HARE. Put some currant jelly into a
stew pan; when it is melted, pour it into a
sauce-boat.
N. B.—Many send it to table without
melting.
This is a more salubrious relish than
either spice or salt, when the palate pro-
tests against animal food unless its flavor be
masked. Currant jelly is a good accom-
paniment to roasted or hashed meats.
SWEET. Put some cinuamon
into a saucepan, with as much water as
will cover it; set it on the lire, and when it
has boiled up once or twice, add two
spoonfuls of powder sugar, a quarter of a pint
of white wine, and two bay-leaves; give
the whole one boil, and then strain it for
table.
TARTARE. Pound in a mor-
tar three hard yolks of eggs; put them into
a basin, and add half a table-spoonful of
made mustard, and a little pepper and salt;
I our to it by degrees, stirring it fast all the
while, about two wine-glassfuls of salad oil;
rtir it together till it comes to a good thick-
ness.
N. B.—A little tarragon or chervil minc-
ed very fine, and a little vinegar, may be
added.
TOMATA. See Tomata.
TOURNEE. To a little white
thickening add some stock drawn from the
trimmings of veal, poultry, and ham; do
not make it too thick. Boil it slowly witi
a few mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, and
some green onions; strain and skim it well,
and use it as required. German sauce is
made as the sauce tournee, adding the beat-
en yolks of two or more eggs, and is used
for ragouts, fricassees, and any made dish
which may require a rich white sauce.
WHITE. Thicken half a pmt
of cream with a little flour and butter, four
shallots minced, a little mace and lemon-
peel; let it boil, and a little before serving,
add a spoonful of white wine, the well-beaten
yolk of an egg, the squeeze of a lemon, and
a tea-spoonful of anchovy liquor. This sauce
will answer for boiled fowls, or for a fricas-
see.
WHITE, FOR FOWLS OR
TURKEY. Put on, in a quart of water,
the necks of fowls, a piece of the scrag-end
of a neck of mutton, two blades of mace,
twelve peppercorns, one anchovy, a small
head of celery, a slice from off tbe end of a
lemon, and a bunch of sweet herbs; cover it
closely, and let it boil till reduced to nearly
half a pint; strain, and put to it a quarter
of a pound of butter dredged with flour; let
it boil for five minutes, and then add two
spoonfuls of pickled mushrooms. Mix with
a tea-cupful of cream, the well-beaten yolks
of two eggs, and some grated nutmeg; stir
this in gradually, and shake the pan over
the fire till it is all quite hot, but do not al-
low it to boil.
— WHITE ITALIAN. Peet
some mushrooms, and throw them into a
little water and lemon-juice, to keep them
white. Put into a stewpan two-thirds of
sauce tournee, and one-third of good veal
stock, two table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped
mushrooms, and half a table-spoonful of
washed and chopped shallots; let it boil till
well flavored, and then serve it. The
mushrooms should be as white as possible.
— WHITE SHARP. Boil with
a little tarragon, or tarragon vinegar, if the
tarragon is not to be had, four table-spoon-
fuls of white wine vinegar, and about twen-
ty peppercorns; reduce this to one-fourth,
and add it to six table-spoonfuls of sauee-
tournee, and two of good stock; boil and
^ train it; put it again on the fire, and thick-
en it with the beaten yolks of two eggs, a
small bit of butter, a little salt and cayenue.
Just before serving, sttr in a spoonful of.
cream.
WHITE, for Botled Fowls.
Melt in a tea-cupful of milk a large table-
spoonful of butter kneaded in flour, beat up


S AU
5 A V
193
the yolk of an egg wtth a tea-spoonful of
cream, stir it into the butter, and heat it
over the fire, stirring it constantly; chop-
ped parsley improves this suuee. It also
may be made by melting the butter with
water, and mixing milk with the egg.
SAUCE, WINE, FOR VENISON OR
HARE. A quarter of a pint of claret or
Port wine, the same quantity of plain, un-
ffuvored mutton gravy, and a table-spoonful
of currant jelly: let it just boil up, and send
it to table in a sauce-boat.
SAUCE, WOW WOW, for Stewed
OR Boutllt Bkef. Chopsome parsley-
leaves very fine; quarter two or three pickled
cucumbers, or walnuts, and divide them into
small squares, and set them by ready: put
into a saucepan a bit of butter as' big as an
egg; when it is melted, stir to it a table-
sponntitl of fine flour, and about half a pint
of the broth in which the beef was boiled;
add a table-spoonful of vinegar, the like
quantity of mushroom ketchup, or Port wine,
or both, and a tea-spoonful of made mustard;
let it simmer together till it is as thick as
you wish it; put in the parsley and pickles
to get warm, and pour it over the beef; or
rather send it up in a sauce-tureen.
Obs.—If yttn think the above not sufficient-
ly piquante, add to it some capers, or a
minced eschalot, or one or two tea-spoonfuls
of eschalot wine, or essence of anchovy, or
basil, elder, or tarragon, or horseradish, or
buntel vinegar; or strew over the meat car-
rots and turnips cut into dice, minced capers,
walnuts, red cabbage, pickled cucumbers, or
French beans, &c.
SAUSAGES, (1) Are composed of va-
irious kinds of meat, chopped exceedingly
small, with pounded spices, and aromatic
herbs, shred fine; these ingredients are put
into skins, or guts (thoroughly washed), and
tied into lengths of from two to five inches.
Some persons add to the mixture a glass
of Rhenish, Champagne, Madeira, or other
wine.
SAUSAGES, (2) Are best when quite
fresh made. Put a bit of butter, or dripping
into a clean frymg-pan; as soon as it is
melted (before it gets hot) put in the sausa-
ges, and shake the pan for a minute, and
keep turning them (be careful not to break
or prick them in so doing); fry them over a
very slow fire till they are nicely browned
on all sides; when they are done, lay them
on a hair sieve, placed oefore the fire for a
couple of minutes to drain the fat from them.
The secret of frying sausages is, to let them
§et hot very gradually; they then will not
urst, if they are not stale. The common
practice to prevent their bursting, is to prick
them with a fork; but this lets the gravy
out. You may froth them by rubbing them
with cold fresh butter, and lightly dredge
them with dour, and put them in a cheese-
toaster or Dutch oven for a minute. Some
over-economical cooks insist that no butter
or lard, &c. is required, their own fat
being sufftcient to fry them: we have tried
it; the sausages were partially scorched,
and had that piebald appearance that all
fried things have when sufficient fat is not
allowed.
Obs.—Poached eggs, pease pudding, and
mashed potatoes, are agreeable accompani-
ments to smtsages; and sausages areas wel-
come boiled with roasted poultry or veal, or
botled tripe; so are ready-dressed German
sausages; and a convenient, easily digestible,
and invigorating food for the aged, and those
whose teeth are defective.
N. B.—Sausages, when finely chopped,
are a delicate " bonne bouche;" and require
very little assistance from the teeth to render
them quite ready for the stomach.
SAUSAGES. (3) Take a pound of
the inward fat of the pig, and half a pound
of lean pork; pick them both from skin and
sinews, mince them very finely, grate a large
nutmeg, take its weight of pounded mace
and cloves, the largest proportion mace, the
weight of all of pepper, and twice the weight
of the spices of salt; chop finely a few sage
leaves and a little lemon thyme; mix all well
together with two large table-spoonfuls of
grated bread and the yolk of an egg heaten.
It may be put mto skins, or packed into a
jar and tied closely with bladder. When
to be used, moisten tt with the yolk of an
egg beaten, make it up in the form of sausa
ges, flour them, and fry them in butteri.
SAUSAGES, BEEF AND OYSTER.
See Beef.
SAUSAGES, TO MAKE. Chop to-
gether two pounds of lean pork, and one
and a half of the inward fat of the pig, thy
crumb of a penuy loaf cut into slices and
soaked in cold water; season with pepper,
salt, grated nutmeg, lemon thyme, and a
little sage. Mix all the ingredients well,
and half fill the skins; boil them half an
hour.
SAUSAGES, BOLOGNA. Take the
legs and shoulders of a pig, from which cut
all the lean, scrape it well, remove all the
sinews, and rub the meat well with a sea-
soning made of salt, pepper, coriander,
cloves, cinuamon, nutmeg, and bay-leaf.
When properly flavored, take some bacon,
lard, and leaf, and cut the whole into died;


S I R
SKA
197
pounds of lump sugar, and a handful of the
peel pared extremely thin; let it stand in the
cask for three months, then filter it through
a cloth, and bottle it.
SHRUB. (4) Take a quart of orange-
juice, strain it, put to it two pounds of lump
sugar, four quarts and one pint of rum; put
half the peels of the oranges into the rum,
and let it stand one night, then mix the rum
with the orange-juice and sugar, put it into
a vessel which has a spigot, shake it four or
five times daily till the sugar be all dissolved;
when it is clear, which may be in about a
fortnight, bottle it off for use. If the or-
anges are very ripe, a pound and a half of
sugar is sufficient.
SHRUB, LEMON OR ORANGE. The
rind of the lemons or oranges being grated
off, they are to be squeezed, and two pounds
of finely-pounded loaf sugar is to be added
to every pint of the strained juice; when the
sugar is quite dissolved, two pints of rum
are allowed to every pint of sirup; the whole
is to be well mixed in a cask, and allowed
to stand five or six weeks, and then drawn
off.
SHRUB, WHITE CURRANT. The
Currants ate to be bruised and put into a
bag to drip; three-quarters of a pound of
loaf sugar is to be dissolved in two quarts
of juice, and a quart of rum being added, it
is to be bottled for use.
SIRUP OF CURRANTS, RASPBER-
RIES, or Mulberrtes. Pick the fruit
from the stalks; squeeze the juice, and let it
stand ten days or a fortnight, or till the fer-
mentation ceases, which may be known by
the scum cracking; carefully take off the
scum, and pour the juice gently into a fresh
vessel; let it stand twenty-four hours, and
again pour it off, to one pound of pounded
loaf sugar allow thirteen ounces of the juice,
put it into a preserving-pan, and when it be-
gins to boil, strain it through a jelly-bag,
and bottle it when cold. Burie pears boiled,
in a little of the sirup, are beautiful.
SIRUP OF ORANGE OR LEMON
PEEL. Of fresh outer rind of Seville orange
or lemon peel, three ounces, apothecaries'
weight; boiling water a pint and a half; in-
fuse them for a night in a close vessel; then
strain the liquor: let it stand to settle; and
having poured it off clear from the sediment,
dissolve in it two pounds of double-refined
loaf sugar, and make it into a sirup with a
gentle heat.
Obs.—In making this sirup, if the sugar
be dissolved in the infusion with as gentle a
Jbeat as possible, to prevent the exhalation
of the volatile parts of the peel, this sirup
will possess a great share of the fine flavor
of the orange or lemon peel.
SIRUP, CLARIFIED. Break into bits
two pounds (avoirdupois) of double-refined
lump sugar, and put it into a clean stewpan
(that is well tinued), with a pint of cold
spring water; when the sugar is dissolved,
set it over a moderate fire: beat about half
the white of an egg, put it to the sugar be-
fore it gets warm, and stir it well together.
Watch it; and when it boils take off the
scum; keep it boiling till no scum rises, and
it is perfectly clear; then run it through a
clean napkin: put it into a close-stopped
bottle; it will keep for months, and is an
elegant article on the sideboard for sweet-
ening.
Obs.—The proportion of sugar ordered in
the above sirup is a quarter pound more than
that directed in the Pharmacopoeia of the
London College of Physicians. The quanti-
ty of sugar must be as much as the liquor is
capable of keeping dissolved when cold, or
it will ferment, and quickly spoil: if kept in
a temperate degree of heat, the above pro-
portion of sugar may be considered the basis
of all sirups.
SKATE, FRIED. After you have
cleaned the fish, divide it into fillets; dry
them on a clean cloth; beat the yolk and
white of an egg thoroughly together, dip the
fish in this, and then in fine bread-crumbs;
fry it in hot lard or drippings till it is of a
delicate brown color; lay it on a hair sieve
to drain; garnish with crisp parsley, and
some like caper sauce, with an anchovy
in it.
SKATE, TO CRIMP. Skin the skate
on both sides, cut it an inch and a half
broad, and as long as the skate, roll up each
piece and tie it with a thread; lay them for
three hours in salt and water, and a little
vinegar; boil them fifteen minutes in boiling
salt and water; before serving, cut off the
threads. Sauces:—shrimp, butter and an-
chovy. When the skate are very small, they
are preferable broiled.
SKATE, LARGE, DRESSED LIKE
Veal Cutlets. Crimp, or cut the skate
m square pieces, roll them in beaten eggs,
and then in grated bread mixed with chop-
ped parsley, pepper, and salt; fry them of a
nice brown color, and serve with a rich
brown gravy.
SKATE, STEWED. Skin the skate,
cut it into square pieces, and brown it with
butter in a frying-pan; make a rich sauco
with the skin and parings, to be boiled in
17*


SNI
SOL
193
Jtree pints of water, with an onion, some
pepper and mIt; strain and thicken it 'vith
■ little Iwtter mixed with flour, add some
verv fmely ch«plied parslevi and chives; of
hot vinegar, mushroom ketchup, and Harvey
sauce, a table-spoonful each, and a little
cayenue; boil it up and put it in the skate
five minutes before serving it.
SKATE, Is very good when in good
season, Iiat no fish so bad when it is olber-
wise: those persons that like it firm and dry,
lOtould have it crimped; but those tliat like
it tender, should have it plain, and eat it
not earlier than the second day, and if cold
weather, three or four days old it is better:
it canuot be kept too long, if perfectly sweet.
Young skate eats very tine crimped and
fried.
SKATE, SMALL, TO FRY. Clean,
wash, and lay them one or two hours in vin-
egar, or vinegar and water, with a sliced
onion, some chopped parsley, pepper, and
salt; drain and dry them well, dip them into
beaten eggs, dredge them with flour, and fry
them of a fine brown color; garnish them
with fried parsley. Sauces;—melted butter,
and shrimp sauce.
SK1RRETS. Wash and scrape them,
put them on in boiling water, and boil them
for ten minutes; dry them in a cullender,
and fry them brown in a little butter. They
are sometimes plain boiled, and a little mel-
ted butter poured over them.
SMELTS, TO FRY. This delicate lit-
tle fish, when perfectly fresh, must not be
washed, hut wiped with a clean cloth, and
dredged with flour, or brushed over with a
feather, dipped into the yolk of an egg beat-
en, and rolled in a plate of finely-grated
bread-crumbs, and fried in boiling dripping,
or fresh lard. They vary in size, and some
will be done sooner than others. When of
a clear yellow brown, take them out careful-
ly, and lay them before the fire upon the back
of a sieve to drain and keep hot. Dish
them, heads and tails alternately; garnish
with fried parsley. Sauce—melted butter.
They may also lie broiled.
SMELTS, ITALIAN. Boil your smelts
with a large glass of white wine, half a glass
of water, two spoonfuls of oil, two slices of
lemon, a pinch of salt, and a pinch of fenuel.
When sufficiently done, make a liaison with
yolks of eggs, and shred chervil, and serve
your fish with its own sauce.
SNIPES. When the snipes have been
picket], they must be singed over a charcoal
Dre; in trussing them press the legs close to
the side, and pierce the beak through them;
tie a slice of bacon over each bird, run a long
iron skewer through the sides, and tie them
to the spit; in the meantime cut two or three
slices of bread, according to the number of
the birds, fry them of a fine brown color in
butter; put the birds to roast, and put the
fried bread in a dish under them, to receive
the inside, which will drop after they have
hung a few minutes; just before they are
roasted sufficiently, cut off the bacon, that
they may take color. Serve them on the
dish with the bread under them, and plenty
of good gravy. Some prefer eating them
with butter only, considering that gravy
takes off from the fine flavor of the bird.
They should be carved the same as fowls or
pigeons, and the head should be opened, as
some are fond of the brains. Snipes are
generally dressed in the same manuer as
woodeocks.
SNOW-BALLS, BOILED IN BUT-
TER. Mix with six well-beaten eggs one
pint and a half of sour cream, and add by
degrees as much flour as will make the bat-
ter thick enough for the spoon to stand in
it; sweeten it with brown sugar, and put
in a few cardamons; stir into this mixture
half a pint of beer, beat it all well to-
gether, and drop it with a dessert-spoon
into some boiling lard, or butter. Drain
them upon a towel before the fire, and serve
them in a napkin, with sugar sifted over
them.
SNOW CHEESE. Sweeten, with poun-
ded loaf sugar, a quart of good cream; add
the strained juice of three lemons, and one
ounce and a half of blanched sweet almonds
pounded, and two table-spoonfuls of rose-
water, and one of ratafia. Beat it with a
whisk till thick, and put it into a shape or
sieve with a bit of muslin laid into it, and
in twelve hours take it out.
SODA WATER. Tartaric acid half
an ounce, a rated soda, half an ounce. Have
two tumblers about one-third full of water,
put a tea-spoonful of the soda into one glass,
and the same of the acid into the other;
when dissolved, mix them together, and
drink it immediately. The two sorts of salts
must be 'kept in separate bottles, and should
be bought ready powdered.
SOLES OR OTHER FISH, TO FRY.
Au hour before you intend to dress them,
wash them thoroughly, and wrap them in a
clean cloth, to make them perfectly dry, or
the bread-crumbs will not stick to them.
Prepare some bread-crumbs, by tubbing
some stale bread through a colander; or,
if you wish the fish to appear very delicate


SOL
SOL
199
ftnd highly finished, through a hair sieve; or
use biscuit powder.
Bent the yolk and white of an egg well
together, on a plate, with a fork; flour your
fish, to absorb any moisture thnt may remain,
and wipe it off with a clean cloth; dip them
in the egg on both sides all over, or, what
is better, egg them with a paste-brush; put
the egg on in an even degree over the whole
fish, or the bread crumbs will not stick
to it even, and the uneven part will burn
to the pan. Strew the bread crumbs all
over the fish, so that they cover every part,
h,ke up the fish by the head, and shake off
the loose crumbs. The fish is now ready
for the frying-pan, into which put a quart
or more of fresh sweet olive oil, or clar-
ified butter, dripping, lard, or clarified drip-
pings; be sure that they are quite sweet
and perfectly clean (the fat ought to cover
the fish): what we here order is for soles
Btbout ten inches long; if larger, cut them
into pieces the proper size to help at table;
this will save much time and trouble to the
carver: when you send them to table, lay
them in the same form they were before they
were cut, and you may strew a little curled
parsley over them: they are much easier
managed in the frying-pan, and require less
fat: fry the thick part a few minutes before
you put in the thin, you can by this means
only fry the thick part enough, without fry-
ing the thin too much. Very large soles
should be boiled, or fried in fillets. Soles
cut in pieces, cross ways, about the size of a
smelt, make a very pretty garnish for stewed
fish and boiled fish.
Set the frying-pan over a sharp and clear
fire; watch it, skim it with an egg-el ice, and
when it boils, i. e. when it has done bub-
bling, and the smoke just begins to rise from
the surface, put in the fish: if the fat is not
extremely hot, it is impossible to fry fish
of a good color, or to keep them firm and
crisp.
The best way to ascertain the heat of the
fat, is to try it with a bit of bread as big as
a nut; if H is quite hot enough, the bread
will brown immediately. Put in the fish,
and it will lie crisp and brown on the side
next the fire, in about four or five minutes;
to turn it, stick a two-pronged fork near the
head, and support the tail with a fish-slice,
and fry the other side nearly the same length
of time. Fry one sole at a tune, except the
pan is very large, and you have plenty of fat.
When the fish are fried, lay them on a soft
cloth (old table-cloths are best), near enough
the fire to keep them warm; turn them
every two or three minutes, till they are
quite dry on both sides; this common cooks
commonly neglect. It will take ten or fifteen
minutes, if the fat you fried them in was not
hot enough; when it is, they want very little
drying. When soles are fried, they will
keep very good in a dry place for three ot
four days; warm them by hanging them on
the hooks in a Dutch oven, letting them heat
very gradually, by putting it some distance
from the fire for about twenty minutes, or in
good gravy, as eels, Wiggy's way.
Obs.—There are several general rules in
this receipt which apply to all fried fish:
we have been very particular and minute in
our directions; for, although a fried sole is
so frequent and favorite a dish, it is very
seldom brought to table in perfection.
SOLES, TO BOIL. A fine, fresh, thick
sole is almost as good eating as a turbot.
Wash and clean it nicely; put it into a fish-
kettle with a handful of salt, and as much
cold water as will cover it; set it on the side
of the fire, take off the scum as it rises, and
let it boil gently; about five minutes (accord-
ing to its size) will be long enough, unless
it be very large. Send it up on a fish-drain-
er, garnished with slices of lemon and sprigs
of curled parsley, or nicely-fried smelts, or
oysters.
Obs.—Slices of lemon are a universally
acceptable garnish with either fiied or broil-
ed fish: a few sprigs of crisp parsley may be
added, if you wish to make it look very
smart; and parsley, or fennel and butter, are
excellent sauces, or chervil sauce, or anchovy.
SOLES, TO DRESS MAIGRE. Put
the fish into a stewpan, with a large onion,
four cloves, fifteen berries of allspice, and the
same of black pepper; just cover them with
boiling water, set it where they will simmer
gently for ten or twenty minutes, according
to the size of the fish; strain off the liquor
in another stewpan, leaving the fish to keep
warm till the sauce is ready. Rub together
on a plate as much flour and butter as will
make the sauce as thick as a double cream.
Each pint of sauce season with a glass of
wine, half as much mushroom ketchup, a tea-
spoonful of essence of anchovy, and a few
grains of cayenue; let it boil a few minutes,
put the fish on a deep dish, strain the gravy
over it; garnish it with sippets of bread
toasted or fried. *
SOLE, Carp, Trout, Perch. Eel,
or Flounder, to stew. When the fish
has been properly washed, lay it m a stew-
pan, with half a pint of claret or Port wine,
and a quart of good gravy, a large onion, a
dozen berries of black pepper, the same of
allspice, and a few cloves, or a bit of mace:
cover the fish-kettle close, and let it stew
gently for ten or twenty minutes, according
to the thickness of the fish: take the fish up,
lay it on a hot dish, cover it up, and thicken
the liquor it was stewed in with a little


sou
SOUPS
200
flour, and season it with pepper, ralt, essence
of anchovy, mushroom ketchup, and a litlle
Chili vinegar; when it has boiled tun miu-
uttiti, »t ruin it through a tam is, and pour it
over the fiVh: if tltcre isi more sauce than
the dish w ill hold, send the rest up in a boat.
The river trout comes into season in April,
and continues till July; it is a delicious fish.
SORREL, TO STEW. Strip the leaves
from the stalks, wash them well, scald them
in boiling water in a silver saucepan, or in
an eatthern p,pkin; strain and stew them in
a little gravy till tender. Serve with hard-
boiled eggs cut in quarters.
SORREL, IN GRAVY. Mince, and
put it mto a saucepan, with butter, bacon,
parsley, and scallions; add a glass of con-
somme; set it over a moderate fire, and
when quite soft, put to it some fowl gravy, or
veal blond. Make the sauce thick, and do
not let it boil, cover the sorrel when served.
SORREL OMELET. Pick, wash, and
blanch some sorrel, cut it in pieces, and
fry it lightly in a little butter, with shred
parsley and scallions; then put the sorrel
mto a saucepan, with a little cream; season,
and let it boil slowly; in the meantime make
an omelet in the usual way, lay it on a dish,
thicken the sorrel with the yolks of two eggs,
pour it on the omelet, and serve it very hot.
SOUFFLET, APPLE. Prepare apples
as for baking in a pudding, put them into a
deep dish, and lay upon the top, about an
inchi and a half thick, rice boiled in new
milk with sugar; beat to a stiff froth the
whttes of two or three eggs, with a little
sifted loaf sugar, lay it upon the rice, and
bake it in an oven a light brown. Serve it
instantly when done.
SOUFFLET, RICH. Soak in white
wine and a little brandy, sweetened with su-
gar, some slices of spongecake; put them
into a deep dish, and pour over them a rich
custard; beat to a stiff froth the whites of
thiee or four eggs, and with a table-spoon
lay it over the top in heaps to look rough;
brown it in a Dutch oven, and serve quickly.
SOUFFLET, RICE. Soak in half a
pint of milk, for an hour, one ounce of rice,
and the peel of a lemon cut thin; put it into
a saucepan, with a little salt, and add by
degrees a pint of new milk, and a bit of but-
ter the size of a walnut; stir it till it boil,
and for five minutes after. When cool, add
the yolks of six eggs, beaten with two table-
spoonfuls of pounded loaf sugar, and 'stir in
the well-beaten whites of the eggs, and dress
the soufflet in the dish like a pyramid.
Bake it in an oven. It may be mac t with
two table-spoonfuls of potato flour, which
mix with a little milk, and a little et-At and
then thicken it over the fire with more milk;
put a little orange-flower water, or a:ty other
perfume; whilst in the oven it may be glazed
with sifted loaf sugar.
SOUFFLET, ORANGE. Mix with a
table-spoonful of flour a pint of cream, put
it into a saucepan, with two spoonfuls of
rose-water, a little cinuamon and orange-
peel; stir it till it boil; strain and sweeten
it, and when cold, mix in two table-spoon-
fuls of orange marmalade; beat well six
eggs with a glass of brandy; mix all togeth-
er; put it in a buttered shape; place it in
a saucepan of boiling water, over a stove;
let it boil one hour and a quarter without a
cloth or cover over it.
SOUPS. Every utensil employed in a
kitchen must be kept scrupulously clean,
and a cook ought to take especial care that
all her saucepans be in good order. Brass
pans are preferable for preserving in, and
double block tin are the best sort in use for
every other purpose; their covers, should be
made to fit closely, and the tinuing always
renewed as soon as it is observed to be
wearing off. While new, they may be
easily kept clean by washing them regularly
in hot water, and rubbing on them when
quite dry, a little whiting with leather or
flanuel. After long use, they will require
occasional scouring with fine sand; and be-
fore they are used, they ought always to be
rinsed out with hot water, and wiped with
a clean cloth. A landlady will find it good
economy, and for her advantage in other
respects, to provide plenty of stone ware and
earthen vessels, and also common dishes for
the kitchen, that the table set may not be
used to keep cold meat on.
In boiling soup, less water is used in a
digester than in a common pot, as in a di-
gester no steam can escape.
To extract the strength from meat, long
and slow boiling is necessary, but care must
be taken that the pot is never off the boil.
All soups are better for being made the day
before they are to be used, and they should
then be strained into earthen pans. When
soup has jellied in the pan, it should not be
removed into another, as breaking it will
occasion its becoming sour sooner than it
would otherwise do; when in danger of not
keeping, it should be boiled up. It never
keeps long with many vegetables in it. The
meat used for soups or broths canuot be too
fresh. When any animal food is plain
boiled, the liquor, with the addition of the
trimmings of meat and poultry, make good
soups and gravies, as do also the bones of


SOUPS
SOUPS
201
•wasted or broiled meat. The gravies left
m the dishes answer for hashes, aud the
liquor in which veal has been boiled, may
be mmlc into a gla/.e by boiling it with a
ham bone till reduced to a third or fourth
part, and seasoning it with the necessary
herbs and spices.
In boiling weak soups, the pan should be
uncovered that the watery particles may
escape. Cow-heel jelly improves every
sort of rich soup; and for thickening, truf-
fles, morels, and dried mushrooms, may be
used with advantage.
Directions are given with each of the
following soups for thickening with flour
and butter, cream and eggs; after the cream
and eggs are added, the soup must not be
allowed to boil.
Should brown gravy or mock turtle soup
be spoiling, fresh-made charcoal, roughly
pounded, tied in a little bag and boiled with
either, will absorb the bad flavor and leave
it sweet and good. The charcoal may be
made by simply putting a bit of wood into
the fire, and pounding the burnt part in a
mortar.
ASPARAGUS. This is made
with the points of asparagus, in the same
manuer as the green pease soap is with
pease: let half the asparagus be rubbed
through a sieve, and the other cut in pieces
alxntl an inch long, and boiled till done
enough, and sent up in the soup: to make
two quarts, there must be a pint of heads
to thicken it, and half a pint cut in; take
care to preserve these green and a little
crisp. This soup is sometimes made by
adding the asparagus heads to common pease
soup.
BEEF, THICK. Ineightquarts
of water boil gently for seven hours, skim-
ming it well, a shin, or a leg of beef, and a
bunch of sweet herbs; strain it the next day,
take off the fat, o"d cut all the gristly and
'sinewy parts from the bones, add them to
the soup with some leeks, onions, celery,
pepper, salt, and ten or twelve ounces of
Scotch barley parboiled; boil it gently for
two or three hours. This stock or jelly will
keep good for weeks in cold weather.
BEEF OR MUTTON. Boil
very gently in a closely covered saucepan,
four quarts of water, with two table-spoon-
fuls of sifted bread raspings, three pounds
of beef cut in •imall pteces, or the same
quantity of mutton chops taken from the
middle of the neck; season with pepper
and salt, add two turnips, Wvo carrots, two
onions, and one head of celery, all cut small;
let it stew with these ingredients four hours,
when it will be ready to serve.
BEET HOOT. Boil till tender
two roots of beet, and rub off the skin with
a coarse towel, mince them fmelv, as also
two or three onions; add this to file pints
of rich gravy soup, so as to make it rather
thick, then stir in three or fatr table-spoon-
fuls of vinegar and one of brown sugar; let it
boil, and throw in some fricandellans made
up in the form of corks, and rolled in flour
AND BOUILLI. The best
parts for this purpose, are the leg or shin,
or a piece of the middle of a brisket of
beef, of about seven or eight pounds' weight;
lay it on a fish drainer, or when vo% take it
up, put a slice under it, which will enable
you to place it on the dish entire; put it in-
to a souppot or deep stewpan, with cold
water enough to cover it, and a quart over,
set it on a quick fire to get the scum up,
which remove as it rises; then put in two
carrots, two turnips, two leeks, or two
large onions, two heads of celery, two or
three cloves, and a faggot of parsley and
sweet herbs; set the pot by the side of the
fire to simmer very gently, till the meat is
just tender enough to eat; this will require
about four or five hours.
Put a large carrot, a turnip, a large onion,
and a head or two of celery, into the soup
whole,—take them out as soon as they are
done enough, lay them on a dish till they are
cold, then cut them into small squares:—
when the Beef is done, take it out careful-
ly,—strain the Soup through a hair sieve
into a clean stewpan, take off the fat, and
put the vegetables that are cut into the
soup, the flavor of which you may heighten,
by adHing a table-spoonful of mushroom
ketchup.
If a Thickened Soup is preferred, take
four large table-spoonfuls of the clear fat
from the top of the pot, and fbur spoonfuls
of flour; mix it smooth together, then by
degrees stir it well into the soup, which
simmer for ten minutes longer' at least,—
skim it well and pass it through a tamis,
or fine sieve, and add the vegetables and
seasoning the same as directed in the clear
soup.
Keep the beef hot, and send it up (as a
remove to the soup) with finely chopped
parsley sprinkled on the top, and a saucei
boat of Wow Wow sauce.
BROWN, wtthout Meat
Put three quarts or more of water, with a
sufficient quantity of raspings to thicken it;
two or three onions cut across, some whole
pepper, and a little salt; cover it close, and
let it boil an hour and a half; take it off,
and strain it through a sieve; fry in buttet
some celery, endive, lettuce, spmach, and
any other herbs cut small; then take a


SOUPS
SOUPS
202
■tewpan (sufficiently large to bold all the
ingredients,) and pot in a good piece of but-
ter, stick in a little flour, and keep stirring
till it is colored of a nice brown; then put
in the herbs and soup; boil it till the herbs
are tender, and the soup of a proper consist-
ence, thru pour the soup into a tureen, and
send to table; serve with fried bread, either
in the soup or in a dish.
BROWN GRAVY. (1) Take
fifteen pounds of a leg or shin of beef, cut off
the meat in bits, rub the bottom of the pot
with butter, put in the meat, let it brown
for nearly an hour, turning it constantly,
break the bone and take out the marrow,
which may be kept for a pudding, but it is
considered better than butter to brown the
meat with; put to it fourteen quarts of cold
water, and the bones; when it boils, skim
it perfectly clean, and add six good-sized
red onions, one carrot cut in three, one
head of celery, a good handful of whole
black and Jamaica pepper mixed; let this
boil very gently ten or twelve hours closely
covered, if upon a fire, but if done upon a
hot plate, not to be covered; strain it through
a cullender, and then through a hair sieve,
into a large pan, to be kept for use. Re-
turn the meat and bones into the pot with
three or four quarts of hot water; let it boil
nearly two hours, and strain it off. This
makes good stock for gravies, stews, or
any made dishes.
This gravy soup keeps perfectly good for
three or four weeks. When it is to be
boiled to send to table, first boil vermicelli,
or macaroni, in a little salt and water, till
tender; strain it, and add it to the soup
just before serving. This soup is quite
pure, and requires no clearing. It is a
most convenient thing to have in a house in
cold weather, as it is always ready for use;
and, served with dry toast to eat with it,
makes an acceptable luncheon.
The trimmings of meat, giblets, and bones,
may be boiled with the beef for this soup.
BROWN GRAVY. (2) Cut
down three pounds of gravy beef, and put it
on in a stewpan with three onions cut small,
and two ounces of butter; let it brown well,
stirring it to prevent the onions from burn-
ing; then add four quarts of water, one
head of celery, of carrots and turnips two
each, with some whole black pepper and
salt; boil it gently for four hours; strain it;
and the next ctav take off the fat. When
tt is heated, add some vermicelli, previously
boiled in water, and serve it after boiling
ten minutes.
CALF'S HEAD, OR MOCK
TURTLE. (1) Parboil a calf's head, take
off the skin and cut it in bits about an inch
and a half square, cut the fleshy parts in bits,
take out the black part of the eyes, and cut
the rest in rings, skin the tongue, and cut it
in slices, add it all to three quarts of good
stock, and season it with cayenue, two or
three blades of mace, salt, the peel of half a
lemon, and half a pint of white wine, with
about a dozen of forcemeat balls; stew all
this an hour and a half, rub down with a
little cold watrr, two table-spoonfuls of flour,
mix well amongst it half a pint of the soup,
atfd then stir it into the pot; put in the
juice of half a large lemon, and the hard-
boiled yolks of eight eggs; let it simmer for
ten minutes, and then put it all in the tureen.
CALF'S HEAD. (2) Scald
and clean thoroughly a calf's head with
the skin on, boil it an hour gently in three
quarts of water, and parboil with it some
sweetbreads. Cut off the meat, slice and
fry of a light brown in butter two pounds
of gravy beef, one of veal, and one of mut-
ton, with five onions cut small; put all into
the liquor, adding the bones of the head
broken; rinse the frying-pan with two
quarts of boiling water, and put it to the
meat, and other things, with two whole on-
ions, and a bunch of sweet herbs, and twice
their quantity of parsley; the peel of one
lemon, four cloves, a little allspice, salt,
and black pepper, with a slice of the crumby
of bread dried before the fire; let all this
stew slowly for five hours, strain it, and
when cold, take off all the fat. Cut the
meat of the calf's head, tongue, and sweet-
breads, in small square bits, add them to
the soup, and when it has boiled, mix very
gradually with a large table-spoonful of
flour a cupful of the soup, and stir it gently
into the pot; twenty minutes I«fore serving,
add a small tea-spoonful of cayenue, the
yolks of eight or ten hard-boiled eggs, and
the same number of forcemeat balls; a pint
of white wine,— Madeirai is the best,—and
. just before serving, add the juice of a lemon.
Forcemeat balls for this soup are made as
follows:—Mix the brains with five table-
spoonfuls of grated bread, the same of finely
minced beef suet, a tea-spoonful of salt, one
of white pepper, the grated peel of a lemon,
some nutmeg, and boiled parsley chopped;
beat the yolks and whites of two eggs, roll
the balls the size of the yolk of an egg, and
fry them of a light brown in boiling drip-
pmg.
CALF'S HEAD. (3) Take as
much as is required of not very strong veal, or
beef stock, in v-hich six onions have been
boiled, brown a quarter of a pound of butter
and thicken it well with flour, then add the
stock by degrees; when it boils, put in tb«


SOUPS
SOUPS
205
watch it, and when it is coming to boil put
jt half a pint of cold water; take off the
scum; then put in half a pint more cold
water, and skim it again, and continue to
do so till no more scum rises. Now set it
on one side of the fire to boil gently for about
four hours; strain it through a clean tamis
or napkin (do tjot squeeze it, or'the soup
will be thick) into a clean stone pan; let it
remain till it is cold, and then remove all the
fat. When you decant it, be careful not to
disturb the settlings at the bottom of the
pan.
The broth should be of a fine amber color,
and as clear as rock water. If it is not
quite so bright as you wish it, put it into a
stewpan; break two whites and shells of
eggs into a basin; beat them well together;
put them into the soup: set it on a quick
fire, and stir it with a whisk till it boils;
then set it on one side of the fire to settle
for ten minutes; run it through a fine napkin
into a basin, and it is ready.
However, if your broth is carefully skim-
med, &c. according to the directions above
given, it will be clear enough without clari-
fying; which process impairs the flavor of
it in a higher proportion than it improves
its appearance. This is the basis of almost
all gravy soups, which are called by the
name of the vegetables that are put into them.
Carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and a few l
leaves of chervil, make what is called spring
soup, or soup sante; to this a pint of green
pease, or asparagus pease, 01 French beans
cut into pieces, or a cabbage lettuce, are an
improvement. With rice or Scotch barley,
with macaroni or vermicelli, or celery cut
into lengths, it will be the soup usually call-
ed by those names. Or turnips scooped
round, or young onions, will give you a clear
turnip or onion soup; and all these vegeta-
bles mixed together, soup gresst. The
roots and vegetables you use must be boiled
first, or they will impregnate the soup with
too strong a flavor. The seasoning for all
these soups is the same, viz. salt and a very
Httle cayenue pepper.
GAME. In the game season, it
is easy for a cook to give a very good soup
at a very little expense, by taking all the.
meat off the breasts of any cold birds which
have been left the preceding day, and pound-
ing it in a mortar, and beating to pieces the
legs and bones, and boiling them in some
broth for an hour. Boil six turnips; mash
them, and strain them through a tamis cloth
.vith the meat that has been pounded in a
mortar; strain your broth, and put a little
of it at a time into the tamis to help you to
ctrain all of it through. Put your soup-ket-
rle near the fire, but do not let it boil: when
ready to dish your dinuer, have six yolks of
eggs mixed with half a pint of cream; stratn
through a sieve"; put your soup on the fire
and as it is coming to boil, put in the eggs,
and stir well with a wooden spoon: do not
let it boil, or it will curdle.
— HARE. Cut the hare in joints
as for a fricassee, and put it in a stewpan,
with a little allspice, three blades of mace,
some salt, and whole black pepper, a bunch
of parsley, a sprig of lemon thyme, one of
winter savory, four quarts of water, a slice
of ham, and four pounds of lean beef, two
carrots, and four onions cut down; let it
boil till it lie reduced to three quarts; sepa-
rate the hare, and strain the soup over it,
and add a pint of Port wine; boil it up be-
fore serving.
—— HERB. Wash and cut small
twelve cabbage lettuces, a handful of chervil,
one of purslane, one of parsley, eight large
green onions, and three handluls of sorrel;
when pease are in season omit half the quanti-
ty of son-el, and put a quart of young green
pease; put them all into a saucepan, with
half a pound of butter and three carrots cut
small, some salt and pepper; let them stew
closely covered for half aii hour, shaking
them occasionally to prevent their adhering
to the pan; fry in butter six cucumbers cut
longways in four pieces; add them with four
quat ls of hot water, half a French roll, and
a crust of bread toasted upon both sides;
and let the whole boil till reduced to three
quarts, then strain it through a sieve; beat
up the yolks of four eggs with half a pint
of cream, and stir it gently into the soup just
before serving.
HERB POWDER, OR VEG-
ETABLE RELISH. Dried parsley, win-
ter savory, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme,
of each two ounces; lemon-peel, cut very
thin, and dried, and sweet basil, an ounce
of each. Some add to the above bay-leaves
and celery-seed, a drachm each. Dry them
in a warm, but not too hot Dutch oven,
when quite dried, pound them in a mortar,
and pass them through a double hair sieve;
put them in a bottle closely stopped, they
• will retain their fragrance and flavor for
several months.
Obs.—This composition of the fine aro-
matic herbs is an invaluable acquisition to
the cook in those seasons or situations when
fresh herbs canuot be had; and we prefer it
to the ragout powder. It impregnates sauce,
soup, &c. with as much reltsh, and renders
it agreeable to the palate, and refreshes the
gustatory nerves, without so much risk of
offending the stomach.
INVALID. Cut in small piece*


SOUPS 206 SOUPS
one pound of beef or mutton, or part of both;
boil it gently in two quarts of water; take
off the scum, and when reduced to a pint,
strain it. Season with a little salt, and take
a tea-cupful at a time.
LOBSTER. (1) Cut small a
dozen of common-sized onions, put them into
u btcwpan with a small hit of butter, a slice
or two of lean ham, and a slice of lean beef;
when the omons are quitc soft, mix gradu-
ally with them some rich stock; let it boil,
and strain it through a fme hair sieve, press-
ing the pulp of the onions with a wooden
spoon; then boil it well, skimming it all the
lune. Beat the meat of a boiled cod, the
spawn and body of a large lobster, or of two
small ones, in a marble mortar; add grad-
ually to it die soup, stirring k till it is as
smooth as cream; let it boil tf gain and scum
tt. Cut the tail and the claws of the lobster
into pieces, and add them to the soup before
serving it, and also some pep|«r, cayenue,
white pepper, and a glass of white wine.
Forcemeat hall.-, may be added to oyster soup
and lobster soup, made as directed under the
article " Forcemeat for fish."
LOBSTER. (2) You must
have three fine lively young hen lobsters,
split the tails; take out the fish, crack the
claws, and cut the meat into mouthfuls:
take out the coral, and soft part of the body;
bruise part of the coral in a mortar; pick
out the fish from the chines; beat part of it
with the coral, and with this make forcemeat
balls, finely-flavored with mace or nutmeg,
a little grated lemon-peel, anchovy and cay-
enue; pound these with the yolk of an egg.
Have three quarts of veal broth; bruise
the small legs and the chine, and put them
into it, to boil for twenty minutes, then
strain it; and then to thicken it, take the
live spawn and bruise it in a mortar with a
little butter and flour; rub it through a sieve,
an I add it to the soup with the meat of the
lolttters, and the remaining coral; let it
ftmmer very gently for ten minutes; do not
lt-t it boil, or its fine red color will imme-
:iia^el) fade; turn it into a tureen; add the
juice of a good lemon, and a little essence
of anchovy.
LORRAtN. Boil in four quarts
of water a knuckle of veal, one pound of
lean beef, and one pound of mutton, a car-
rot, a turnip, a bunch of parsley, and a little
lemon thyme, some salt and white pepper,
till reduced to three, then strain the liquor;
pound very finely in a marble mortar, all the
white meat of a large roasted fowl, with a
quarter of a pound of blanched almonds, and
the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs; boil in
milk lbs crumb of a French roll, and pound
it with the other ingredients, and sttr it al
well mto the soup; let it boil gently for ten
minutes before serving.
MAIGRE, OR VEGETABLE
GRAVY. Put into a gallon stewpan three
ounces of butter; set it over a slow fire;
i while it is melting, slice four ounces of
I onion; cut in small pieces one turnip, cme
I carrot, and a head of celery; put them in the
I stewpan, cover it close, let it fry till they are
lightly browned; this will take about twen-
, ty-five minutes: have ready, in a saucepan,
j a pint of pease, with four quarts of water;
| when dte roots in the stewpan are quite
. brown, and the pease come to a boil, put the
1 pease and water to them; put it on the fire;
I when it boils, skim it clean, and put in a
! crust of bread about as big as the top of a
, twopenuy loaf, twenty-four berries of all-
I spice, the same of black pepper, and two
blades of mace; cover it close, let it simmer
gently for one hour and a half; then set it
from the fire for ten minutes; then pour it
off very gently (so as not to disturb the sedi-
ment at the bottom of the stewpan) into a
large basin; let it stand (about two hours)
till it is quite clear: while this is doing,
shred one large turnip, the red part of a
large carrot, three ounces of onion minced,
and one large head of celeiy cut into small
bits; put the turnips and carrots on the fire
in cold water, let them boil five minutes,
then drain them on a sieve, then pour off the
soup clear into a stewpan, put in the roots,
put the soup on the fire, let it simmer gently
till the herbs are tender (from thirty to forty
minutes), season it with salt and a little
cayenue, and it is ready. You may add a
table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup. You
will have three quarts of soup, as well color-
ed, and almost as well flavored, as if made
with gravy meat. To make this it requires
nearly five hours. To fry the herbs requites
twenty-five minutes; to boil all together, one
hour and a half; to settle, at the least, two
hours; when clear, and put on the fire again,
half an hour more.
MACARONI. (1) Boil for three
hours very quickly, in five quarts of water,
seven pounds of veal, a little salt, a dessert-
spoonful of white pepper, and three or four
blades of mace; strain it off, put it into a
saucepan, and keep it hot upon a stove.
Mix five table-spoonfuls of flour with two
ounces of butter, put it into an iron-tinued
saucepan, and stir it over the fire till it be
melted; add half a pint of the strained stock,
and then gradually mix the whole together,
and keep stirring constantly till it thickens,
and then add two ounces and a half of mac-
aroni, previously boiled in milk and water
for eight minutes; stir it again till it boiU


SOUPS
SOUPS
208
the meat to be cut into mouthfuls, that it
may be eaten with a spoon: the knife and
fork have no business in a soup-plate.
N. B.—In helping this soup, the distri-
buter of it should serve out the meat, force-
meat, and gravy, in ctptal parts; however
trilling or needltss this remark may appear,
the writer has often suffered from the want
of such a hint being given to the soup-serv-
er, who has sometimes sent a plate of mere
gravy without meat, at others, of meat with-
out gravy, and sometimes scarcely any thing
I.nt forcemeat balls.
Obs.—This is a delicious soup, within
the reach of those who "eat to live;" but
if it had been composed expressly for those
who only " live to eat," I do not know how
it could have been made more agreeable: as
it is, the lover of good eating will " wish his
throat a mile long, and every mch of it palate"
MOCK MOCK TURTLE. Line
the bottom of a stew pan that will hold five
pints, with an ounce of nice lean bacon or
ham, a pound and a half of lean gravy beef,
a cow-heel, the inuer rind of a carrot, a sprig
of lemon thyme, winter savory, three times
the quantity of parsley, a few green leaves
of sweet basil, and two eschalots; put in a
large onion, with four cloves stuck in it,
eighteen corns of allspice, the same of black
pepper; pour on these a quarter of a pint
of cold water, cover the stewnan, and set it
on a slow fire, to boil gently for a quarter
of an hour; then, for fear the meat should
catch, take off the cover, and watch it; and
when it has got a good brown color, fill up
dte stewpan with boiling water, and let it
simmer very gently for two hours: if you
wish to have the full benefit of the meat,
only stew it till it is just tender, cut it into
mouthfuls, and put it into the soup. To
thicken it, pour two or three table-spoonfuls
of flour, a ladleful of the gravy, and stir it
quick till it is well mixed; pour it back in-
to the stewpan where the gravy is, and let
tt simmer gently for half an hour longer;
skim it, and then strain it through a tam is
into the stewpan: cut the cow-heel into
pieces about an inch square, squeeze through
a sieve the juice of a lemon, a table-spoon-
fnl of mushroom ketchup, a tea-spoonful of
salt, half a tea-spoonful of ground black
pepper, as much grated nutmeg as will lie
on a sixpence, and a glass of Madeira or
Sherry wine; let it all simmer together for
five minutes longer. Forcemeat or egg balls
may be added if you please.
A pound of veal cutlets, or the belly part
of pickled pork, or nice double tripe cut in-
to pieces about an inch square, and half an
inch thick, and rounded and trimmed neat-
ly from all skin, gristle, &c. and stewed till
they are tender, will be a great addition.
i MOOR-FOWL. It may be
made with or without brown gravy soup;
i when with the former, t-ix birds are suffi-
cient, when with moor-fowl only, boil five in
four quarts of water, pound the breasts in a
mortar and rub it through a sieve, put it
with the legs, backs, and three more moor-
fowl, cut down in joints, into the liquor,
season with a pint of Port wlne, |-e| l-er,
and sah, and let it boil an hntr. When
1 only six birds are used, pound the breasts
of three or four.
MULLAGATAWNY. (1) Put
half a pound of fresh butter, v. ith six large
onions sliced, three cloves of garlic, some
chopped parsley, and sweet marjoram, into
a stewpan, let it stew over a slow fire till
of a light brown color; cut in small pieces
five pounds of lean beef, and let that stew
till the gravy be extracted, and then put in
three quarts of boiling water, and half a
pound of Scotch barley, and let it simmer
four hours very slowly; mix four table-
spoonfuls of curry-powder with cold water,
and add it to the stock; take out the beef,
and rub the barley through a sieve, to thick-
en the soup. Cut a fowl in joints, skin it,
and put it in a stewpan with a piece of but-
ter, and let it stew till quite tender; the
stewpan must be kept closely covered: this
to be added to the soup, the last titing, with
a pint of boiling milk, and the juice of two
lemons. Boiled rice must always be tened
with this soup.
MULLAGATAWNY. (2)
Make a strong stock of the bones of roasted
beef, mutton, and fowl; while it is prepar-
ing, put into a stewpan, with six ounces of
butter, three quarts of sliced turnip, tw:o
quarts of carrots, and. eight large onions
also sliced; let them stew upon the stove till
tender; then add three quarts of the pre-
pared stock, a large slice of the crumb of
bread, and two table-spoonfuls of curry-
powder; let them stew four or five hours;
strain it through a tammy cloth, with
two wooden spoons, taking care that no
bones be left amongst the vegetables; if too
thick to go through, add more stock. Then
cut a fowl in pieces, fry it in a frying-pan
with butter, and add it to the soup; after
| it has boiled a little, draw it to the side
j of the stove, and let it simmer, that the
i grease may be taken oft'. A little good
I beef stock, in addition to that made of the
| vbones will be an improvement. It is some-
| times thickened with whole or grout,d rice,
instead of bread, and ought to be made
| upon a stove.
! ONION. Boil in four quarts of
water six pounds of a knuckle of veal, with


SOUPS
SOUPS
209
a dessert-spoonful of whole white pepper,
and a few blades of mace; when the meat
is so much boiled as to leave the bone, strain
off the stock. The following day boil nine
or ten large Spanish onions in milk and
water, till sufficiently tender to pulp through
a sieve; take the fat off from the top of the
stock, boil it up, and add the onions with
about a quarter of a pound of fresh butter
worked with two heaped table-spoonfuls of
sifted flour of rice, and a little salt; boil it
gently for half an hour, stirring it constantly,
and a little before serving, stir in half a pint
of rich cream.
OX-HEAD, Should be pre-
pared the day before it is to be eaten, as you
canuot cut the meat off the head into neat
mouthfuls unless it is cold: therefore, the
day before you want this soup, put half an
ox-cheek into a tub of cold water to soak
for a couple of hours; then break the bom-s
that have not been broken at the butcher's,
and wash it very well in warm water; put
it into a pot, and cover it with cold water;
when it boils, skim it very clean, and then
put in one head of celery, a couple of carrots,
a turnip, two large omons, two dozen ber-
ries of black pepper, same of allspice, and
a bundle of sweet herbs, such as marjoram,
lemon thyme, savory, and a handful of pars-
ley; cover the soup-pot close, and set it on a
slow fire; take off the scum, which will rise
when it is coming to a boil, and set it by the
fireside to stew very gently for about three
hours; take out the head, lay it on a dish,
pour the soup through a fine sieve into a
stone-ware pan, and set it and the head by
in a cool place till the next day; then cut
the meat into neat mouthfuls, skim and strain
off the broth, put two quarts of it and the
meat into a clean stewpan, let it simmer very
gently for half an hour longer, and tt is
ready. If you wish it thickened, put two
ounces of butter into a stewpan; when it is
melted, throw in as much flour as wdl dry it
up; when they are all well mixed together,
and browned by degrees, pour to this your
soup, and stir it well together; let it simmer
for half an hour longer; strain it through a
hair sieve into a clean stewpan, and put to
it the meat of the head; let it stew half an
hour longer, and season it with cayenue
pepper, salt, and a glass of good wine, or a
table-spoonful of brandy. If you serve it as
soup for a dozen people, thicken one tureen,
and send up the meat in that; and send up
the other as a clear gravy soup, with some
of the carrots and turnips shredded, or cut
into shapes.
OX-HEEL, Must be made the
day before it is to be eaten. Procure an
or-heel undressed, or only scalded, and two
that have been boiled as they usually are a*
the tripe shops.
Cut the meat off the boiled heels into neat
mouthfuls, and set it by on a plate; put the
trimmings and bones in a stewpan, with three
quarts of water, and the unboiled heel cut into
quarters; furnish a stewpan with two onions,
and two turnips pared and sliced; pare off
the red part of a couple of large carrots, add
a couple of eschalots cut in half, a bunch of
savory or lemon thyme, and double the quan-
tity of parsley; set this over, or by the side
of a slow, steady fire, and keep it closely
covered and simmering very gently (or the
soup liquor will evaporate) for at feast seven
hours: during which, take care to remove
the fat and scum that will rise to the surface
of the soup, which must be kept as clean as
possible.
Now strain tlte liquor through a sieve,
and put two ounces of butter into a clean
stewpan; when it is melted, stir into it as
much flour as will make it a stiff paste; add
to it by degrees the soup liquor; give it a
boil up; strain it through a sieve, and put
in the peel of a lemon pared as thin as pos-
sible, and a couple of bay-leaves, and the
meat of the boiled neels; let it go on sim-
mering for half an hour longer, i. e. till the
meat is tender. Put in the juice of a lemon,
a glass of wine, and a table-spoonful of mush-
room ketchup, and the soup is ready for the
tureen.
Those who are disposed to make this a
more substantial dish, may mtroduce a
couple of sets of goose or duck giblets, or
I ox-tails, or a pound of veal cutlets, cut into
mouthfuls.
OX-TAIL. Three tails, costing
about 2d. each, will make a tureen of soup
(desire the butcher to divide them at the
joints); lay them to soak in warm water,
while you get ready the vegetables.
Put into a gallon stewpan eight cloves,
two or three onions, half a drachm of all-
spice, and the same of biack |iepper, and
the tails: cover them with cold water; skim
| it carefully, when and as long as you see
j any scum rise; then cover the pot as close
! as possible, and set it on the side of the
j fire to keep gently simmering till the meat
I becomes tender and will leave the bones
easily, liecause it is to be eaten with a spoon,
without the assistance of a knife or fork ; this
will require about two hours: mind it is not
done too much: when perfectly tender, take
out the meat and cut it off the bones, in
neat mouthfuls; skim the broth, and strain
tt through a sieve; if you prefer a thicken-
ed soup, put flour and butter, as directed in
the preceding receipt; or put two table-
| spoonfuls of the fat you have taken off the
I broth into a clean stewpan, with aa much
18*


soups 211
SOUPS
hours in four quarts of water, with a carrot,
a head of celery, three onions, some pepper
and salt, strained, and the next day the fat
taken off, and the peas boiled in the liquor
with a little bit of butter, till sufficiently ten-
der to pulp through a sieve.
PEAS, PLAIN. To a quart
of split peas, and two heads of celery (and
most cooks would put a large onion), put
three quarts of broth or soft water; let them
simmer gently on a trivet over a slow fire
for three hours, stirring up every quarter of
an hour to prevent the peas burning at the
bottom of the soup-kettle (if the water boils
away, and the soup gets too thick, add some
boiling water to tt); when they are well sof-
tened, work them through a coarse sieve,
and then through a fine sieve or a tamis;
wash out your stewpan, and then return the
soup into it, and give it a boil up; take off
any scum that comes up, and it is ready.
Prepare fried bread, and dried mint, as di-
rected in Old Peas (2) and send them up
with it on two side dishes.
Obs.—This is an excellent family soup,
produced with very little trouble or expense.
PIGEON. (1) Have a strong beef
stock, highly seasoned, and if for rich soup,
take six or eight pigeons according to their
size, wash them clean, cut off the necks, pin-
ions, livers and gizzards, and put them into
the stock; quarter the pigeons and brown
them nicely; after having strained the stock,
put in the pigeons; let them boil till nearly
ready, which will be in about half an hour,
then thicken it with a little flour, rubbed
down in a tea-cupful of the soup, season it
with half a grated nutmeg, a table-spoonful
of lemon juice or of vinegar, and one of
mushroom ketchup; let it boil a few minutes
after all these ingredients are put in, and
serve it with the pigeons in the tureen; a
better thickening than flour is to boil quite
tender two of the pigeons, take off all the
meat and pound it in a mortar, rub it through
a sieve, and put it, with the cut pigeons,
into the strained soup. To make partridge
soup, partridges may be substituted for pig-
eons, when only four birds will be required;
pound the breast of one.
PIGEON. (2) Take eight pig-
eons, cut down two of the oldest, and put
them, with the necks, pinions, livers, and
gizzards of the others, into four quarts of
water; let tt boil till the substance be extrac-
ted, and strain it; season the pigeons with
mixed spices and salt, and truss them as for
Stewing; pick and wash clean a handful of
parsley, chives or young onions, and a good
deal of spinach ; chop them; put in a frying-
pan a quarter of a pound of butter, and when
it boils, mix in a handful of bread crumbs
keep stirring them with a knife till of a fine
brown; boil the whole pigeons till they be-
come tender in the stock with the herbs, and
fried bread. If the soup be not sufficiently
high seasoned, add more mixed spices and
salt.
PORTABLE. Put on, in four
gallons of water, ten pounds of a shin of
beef, free from fat and skin, six pounds of a
knuckle of veal, and two fowls, break the
bones and cut the meat into small pieces,
season with one ounce of whole black pep-
per, quarter of an ounce of Jamaica pepper,
and the same of mace, cover the pot very
closely, and let it simmer for twelve or four-
teen hours, and then strain it. The follow-
ing day, take off the fat, and clear the jelh/
from any sediment adhering to it; boil tt
gently upon a stove, without covering the
saucepan, and stir it frequently till it be-
comes very thick and in lumps about the pan.
Put it into saucers about half full, and when
cold lay the cakes upon flanuel to dry before
the fire or in the sun; keep them in a tin
box, with white paper between each cake.
About an ounce weight will make a pint of
rich soup; pour boiling water upon it with
a little salt, and stir it till it dissolves. It
also answers well for gravies and all brown
sauces.
FOR THE POOR. Wash an
ox-head very clean; break the bones, and
cut the meat in pieces; put it on in thirteen
gallons of water, and a peck and a half of
potatoes, half a peck of turnips, the same
quantity of onions, and some carrots; peel and
cut them all down. A handful of pot herbs,
and two quarts of oatmeal; season with
pepper and salt. Cover the pot closely, and
let it stew till the next morning; add as
much hot water as may have wasted in boil'
ing, and let it stew for some hours longer,
when it will be fit for use. This soup will
be found very good for a family dinuer.
QUEEN. Pound in a marble
mortar the white meat of three cold roasted
fowls, and half a pound of sweet almonds
blanched; add a little cream whilst pound-
ing. Boil this with four quarts of well-sea-
soned beef stock, then strain it, and just
before serving stir in a pint of cream.
SANTE. (1) Peel four large
onions, cut them small, with four white let-
tuces, a handful of spinach, and a slice of
grated bread. Stew all these ingredients
for an hour in a quart of broth and a quarter
of a pound of butter, then add three pints
more of broth, skim off all the fat, and boil
it a quarter of an hour, season with pepper


SOUPS
SOUPS
212
and salt. Before serving, add half a pint
of good cream. A pint of green peas, ad-
ded with the other vegetables, is a great im-
provement.
SANTE. (2) Lay six or eight
slices of lean ham, with some beef over them,
at the bottom of a stewpan, then some veal,
.with some partridge-legs, or moor game, or
chicken, salt, peppercorns, Jamaica pepper,
three or four cloves, a bay-leaf, and one
clove of garlic; let the whole stew together
till it takes a fine brown color, then fill it up
with half water, and half good beef stock;
add three heads of celery, two good turnips,
parsley, lemon thyme, two carrots, three
large onions, and a small bunch of winter
savory; when the whole is thoroughly well
done, pass it through a lawn sieve into a ba-
sin. Cut two good-sized turnips and three
large leeks, into pieces, about the thickness
of a quill, and an mch and a half long; fry
those to«jther of a nice brown color: next,
shred two cabbage-lettures, celery, endive,
sorrel, antl chervil; and stew them down on
a very slow fire with a small bit of butter.
When done, put them in a sieve with the
turnips; then put them into a soup-pot, and
pour the soup from the basin over them; set
it on a stove, skim it, and as soon as it boils,
set it on one side, and let it simmer for two
hours very gently; take the crumb of a
couple of French rolls, and cut it into round
pieces, which brown in the oven, and put
them into the tureen, and pour the soup upon
them. If you think proper, it may be clari-
fied, the same as other clear soups; but the
real Soup tie Sante ought not to be clarified.
SIMPLE. Cut small one pound
of carrots, one pound of turnips, half a
pound of onions, one lettuce, a little celery,
and a handful of parstey; stew them for
twenty minutes with a quarter of a pound
of butter, some salt and pepper; then put
them into three quarts of stock, made with
two pounds of veal, and add one quart of
green peas, and let it stew for three hours.
Press it through a sieve, and boil it up before
sending it to table
SPRING. Put on in four quarts
of water a knuckle of veal cut down, and a
quarter of a pound of lean ham, or a gam-
mon of bacon; a quart of green split peas;
cut small three or four onions, three turnips,
a little parsley, thyme, celery, and one leek;
stew them all together till the peas are very
soft; take out the meat and press the re-
mainder through a fine sieve; season the
soup with pepper and salt. Cut small like
peas a bunch of the tops of asparagus, the
hearts of two or three cabbages, cutting off
f top part and the otftside leaves, and a
little green mint, stew them till tender,
keeping them of a good green, and add them
to the soup a quarter of an hour before serv-
ing. If it should not be green enough,
pound some spinach, squeeze the jutce
through a cloth, put about a quarter of a
pint into the tureen^ and pour in the soup.
This is the best method to make green peaa
soup of a good color.
STOVE OR SPINACH. Boil
in two quarts of water three sliced onions.
Pick and clean as much spinach as will
make two large dishes, parboil and put it in
a cullender, to let the bitter water drip from
it; let cold water run upon it for a minute
or two, and then press out the water. Knead
two ounces of fresh butter, with a table-
spoonful and a half of flour, mix it with th«
spinach, which boil for fifteen minutes in the
water and onions, then put in half a pint of
cream or good milk, some salt and pepper,
boil it for fifteen minutes more. In the
season of green peas, a quart added with
the spinach is a great improvement. It is
common to boil a lamb's head and pluck
with the soup, and send them to table in the
tureen. The soup is then called Lamb's
Stove; but with the peas it is quite as good
without.
VEGETABLE. Pare and cut
small one dozen of common-sized onions,
five large yellow turnips, two heads of celery,
and the red part of three large carrots; wash
and put them in a stewpan with two ounces
of butter, cover it closely; and when the
vegetables are a little soft, add to them four
quarts of well-seasoned gravy soup made of
roast beef bones, and let it stew four or five
hours; rub it through a tammy, put it on the
fire, boil and skim it before serving.
WINTER VEGETABLE. (1)
Peel and slice six large onions, six potatoes,
and four turnips; fry them in half a pound of
butter or very fresh dripping; toast a crust
of bread brown and hard, put it, with two or
three heads of celery cut small, some herbs,
pepper, and salt, wtth the frhd vegetables,
into five pints of water, to stew gently for
four hours, then strain it through a sieve,
add a little carrot and celery cut small, and
some chopped parsley, one anchovy or a red
herring, and a little cayenne; boil it till the
vegetables are tender.
WINTER VEGETABLE. (2)
To every gallon of water allow, when cut
down small, a quart of the following vegetav?
bles; equal quantities of turnips, carrots, and \
potatoes, three onions, two heads of celery, ^V.
and a bunch of sweet herbs; fry them brown
in a quarter of a pound of butter, add the


SOUPS
SOUPS
213
water with salt and pepper, and boil it till
reduced to three quarts, and serve it with
fried toasted bread.
VENISON. Boil down in five
quarts of water two pounds of a shank of
veal, or fowl, and five pounds of the breast
of venison cut small; two or three onions
chopped, some whole white pepper and salt,
with a quarter of a pound of lean ham.
Let it stew till it be completely boiled down,
when all the strength will lie extracted; rub
it through a sieve, thicken it with a little
butter, kneaded in flour, and add a pint of
Madeira, and boil it fur a quarter of an
hour or twenty minutes.
BROWN VENISON. Cut in
email pieces six or seven pounds of the
breast of venison, put it in a stewpan with
two or three ounces, of butter; cover it
closely, stir it once or twice, and let it stew
an hour. Mix four quarts of cold water
with a pint and a half of the blood, put it
on the fire in another stewpan, and stir it
constantly till it boil; then add the stew to
it with an onion minced small, and a whole
carrot, some salt, black and Jamaica pep-
per. If the meat be young, let it boil gent-
ly for two hours; if old, two and a half will
be necessary. A little liefore serving, take
out the carrot and all the bones, leaving a
little of the meat; mix in half a pint of
Port wine, and let it boil a short time. It
may be thickened with a little flour and
butter.
A cow-heel that has been previously boiled,
cut up in pieces, may be used instead of the
chickens.
WHITE. (2) Take a good
knuckle of veal, or two or three short shanks,
boil it about four hours, with some whole
white pepper, a little mace, salt, two onions,
and a small bit of lean ham; strain it, and
when cold take off all the fat and sediment;
tieat up six yolks of eggs and mix them with
a pmt of good cream, then pour the boiling
soup upon it by degrees, stirring it well,
and if it is liked, add tin- best part of the
gristles.
. WHITE. (3) Put on in four
—— VERMICELLI. The day be-
fore it is required majte four quarts of good
stock, and boil in it one-carrot, one turnip,
four onions, one or two parsley roots, three
blades of mace, salt, and some white pepper;
strain it, and, before using, take off all the
fat; boil in some of the liquor the crumb of
three French rolls till soft enough to mash
smooth; boil the soup and stir well in the
mashed rolls; boil it for a quarter of an
hour, and, before serving, add the yolks of
two eggs beaten with three table-spoonfuls
of cream; boil in water two or three ounces
of vermicelli for fifteen or twenty minutes,
strain and put it into the tureen, and pour
the soup upon it.
WHITE. (1) Boil together a
knuckle of veal, a fowl, or two chickens
skinued, a carrot, a turnip, an onion, some
salt, and a little whole white pepper; take
out the chickens when lender, cut them in
joints, and add them to the soup when
strained, beat up the yolks of nine eggs, mix
them with a pint of cream and a table-spoon-
ful of well-boiled rice; stir it gradually into
soup, and heat it gently before serving.
quarts of water, a knuckle of veal,six pounds
weight, a quarter of a pound of lean ham or
bacon, two slices of the crumb of bread, one
ounce of blanched sweet almonds, put in
whole; six middling-sized onions, two heads
of celery, some whole white pepper, three
blades of mace, a bunch of parsley, and a
sprig of thyme; stew all these gently for
eight hours, strain it, and when cold take
oft' all the fat; boil it, and just before serv-
ing, take it oft' the fire, and stir in very
gradually a pint of thick cream.
WHITE. (4) Boil in four
quarts of water four pounds of veal, and a
fowl, with some whole white pepper, a little
mace, and three middling-sized onions whole,
and a bunch of parsley; let it botI three
hours, strain it, and put it on again to get
quite hot, and .ust before serving, stir in
gradually half a pint of cream with the yolks
of three eggs Well beaten. Do not let it boil,
as that makes the eggs curdle.
- WHITE. (5) Stew in three quarts
of boiling water, till quite tender, a knuckle
of veal, with a quarter of a pound of whole
rice, three whole onions, a bunch of parsley,
a little sweet marjoram, and two or three
blades of mace, and some salt; a little before
the soup is strained, add two anchovies;
strain through a hair sieve and then through
a silk one, or tammy, put it again upon the
fire, and stir in half a pint of rich cream, or
a pint of milk with the yolks of two eggs
beat up in it; let it be hot but not boiling.
If it is required to be richer, boil a fowl m
the stock, with two ounces of pounded blanch-
ed sweet almonds.
WHITE. (6) Put on in five
quarts of water, four pounds of a shank of
veal, break the bone well, let it simmer till
it be reduced nearly half; boil a tea-cupful
of whole rice till very tender, pulp it through
a cullender, strain the liquor, and add the
rice, season with salt and white pepper, let


SPA
SPI
214
it stmmer for nearly an hour, and add, a
little before serving, six yolks of eggs beaten
extremely well.
SOt'R K'iOTT. The last rablst^e for!
tit' i. is tt. - .-l.uut, or white St.as-
Ui -,.. n -i. n b-4t. - Lt not lie ttM'd litI it 1ms
t"t...i ,-i xu,n- ,-mcrc f,,>:; ihe sto: ks ate
llten cut into halves, and tlned down as line
as possible with a knife, or more properly
with a plane made in the I'm m of a cucumber
shce. Burn a little juniper in a cask or tub
which is perfectly sound and clean, and put
a little leaven into the seam round the bot-
tom,—flour and vinegar may be substituted
for the leaven; then put in three or four
handthls of cabbage, a good sprinkling of
salt, and a tea-spoonful of caraway seed, and
press this hard with a wooden mallet; next
a ld another layer of cabbage, with salt and
caraway seed, as at firsthand so on in the
same manuer until the cask be full, pressing
down each layer 'firmly as you advance. A
good deal of water will come to the top, of
which a part may be taken off. The cask
being full, put on the bead so as to press
upon tlte cabbage, and place it in a warm
cellar to ferment; when it has worked well
for three weeks, take off the scum which
will have gathered on the top, and lay a
clean cloth on the krout; replace the head,
and put two or three heavy stones upon it.
The juice should always stand upon the top.
Thus in a good cellar it will keep for years.
When to be dressed, it is boiled for five or
six hours in water, or stewed with a little
gravy, and may be also substituted for a
crust over a beef-steak pie, when cheese is
grated over it.
SOUR KROUT WITH PIKE. When
the krout is boiled, clean a large pike,
scrape and cut it into neat pieces, dip them
into the beaten yolk of an egg, then into
bread crumbs, and fry them of a nice brown;
rub some butter upon a dish, and put into
it a layer of krout, and seme grated cheese,
then a layer of pike, and a little sour cream;
then krout, and so on till the dish be full.
On the top put some bits of butter, and
some good broth or gravy; strew crumbs
of bread thickly over it, and bake it half
an bour.
SPANISH PUFFS. Put into a sauce-
pan, half a pint of water and a quarter of
a pound of butter; stir it till it boils, and
mix in four table-spoonfuls of flour; stir it
well together, and add six yolks and four
whites of eggs, two at a time; let it cool,
and, with a dessert-spoon, drop it into boil-
ing clarified dripping or lard.
To make ginger puffs, a tea-spoon ful of
pounded ginger may be added.
SPARE RIB ROASTED. See Pork.
SPICE FOR WHITE SAUCE. Pound
two ounces of ye\'per, a quarter of an ounce
of mace, g; ate one nutmeg, and the peel of
one lemon; mix all together in a buttle.
SPICE FOR GENERAL USE. One
ounce and a half of pepper, cinuamon, nut-
meg, and ginger, half an ounce each, and
eight cloves; pound and mix all together in
a bottle. A little of each kind of spice
should be well dried, pounded, and kept
separately in small bottles, which should be
labelled.
SPINACH, TO DRESS. Pick the
spinach with great care; strip the leaves
from the stalks, and wash it in several wa-
ters, till perfectly clean; boil the spinach in
salt and water; drain it well; pound it in
a mortar, and put it into a stewpau with a
little butter and broth, and let it stew over
a slow fire for three-quarters of an hour, till
it he very dry; then add a quarter of a
pound of fresh butter, with salt and grated
nutmeg; work the spinach well, till it is
thick, but take care the butter does not
turn to oil. Garnish with fried toasts of
bread, which may Ihi cut like cock's combs,
or in any other form.
SPINACH, TO BOIL. (1) Pick it very
carefully, and wash it thoroughly two or
three times in plenty of cold water, then put
it on in boiling water with a little salt; let
it boil nearly twenty minutes, put it into a
cullender, hold it under the water cock, and
let the water run on it for a minute; put it
into a saucepan, beat it perfectly smooth
with a beater or with a wooden spoon, add
a bit of butter, and three table-spoonfuls of
cream; mtx it well together, and make it
hot before serving. When dished, it is
scored in squares with the back of a knife.
SPINACH, TO BOIL. (2) After
being nicely picked and well washed, put it
into a saucepan, with no more water than
adheres to it; add a little salt; cover the
pan closely, and boil it till tender, frequent-
ly shaking it; beat it quite smooth, adding
butter and cream, and make it quite hot.
Spinach may be served with poached eggs,
or fried sausages laid on it.
When the spinach is bitter, it is prefera-
ble to boil it in water.
SPINACH TOASTS. Boil some spi-
nach for a quarter of an hour; then squeeze
out all the water, chop it small, and put it
into a mortar, with three or four spoonfuls
of apple marmalade, the yolks of four hard-
boiled, and three raw eggs, two biscuits


SPR
STO
215
soaked m cream, sugar, and a pmch of salt; J
pound all these together to a paste, put it
;nto a dish, and mix with it a few dry cur-
rants, and three or four spoonfuls of melted
butter. Cut some slices of bread half an
inch thick, four inches long, and two broad;
toast them nicely, and spread the spinach,
&c. over them, to the thickness of half an
inch, wash each over with white of egg;
place the toasts on a baking-tin (well butter-
ed) and bake them for half an hour. When
done, grate nutmeg, and squeeze orange-juice
over them, and serve.
SPRATS, TO BAKE. Clean them;
take off the heads; put them into a deep
dish, and cover them with vinegar and wa-
ter, equal quantitles of each. To a quart of
liquid, put half an ounce of whole black pep-
per, a little allspice, two or three bay-leaves,
some salt, and an onion. Tie paper over
the dish, and bake them in a cool oven, or
do them over a slow fire in a water bath.
Herrings may be done in this way. Both
will keep good some weeks.
SPRATS, STEWED. Wash and dry
vour sprats, and lay them as level as you
can in a stewpan, and between every layer
of sprats put three peppercorns, and as many
allspice, with a few grains of salt; barely
cover them with vinegar, and stew them one
hour over a slow fire; they must not boil:
a bay-leaf is sometimes added. Herrings or
mackerel may be stewed the same way.
SPRATS, BROILED. Ifyouhavenot
a sprat gridiron, gel a piece of pointed iron
wire as thick as packthread, and as long as
your gridiron is broad; run this through the
heads of your sprats, sprinkle a little flour
and salt over them, put your gridiron over a
clear, quick fire, turn them in about a couple
of minutes; when the other side is brown,
draw out the wire, and send up the fish with
mehed butter in a cup.
Obs.—That sprats are young herrings, is
evident by their anatomy, in which there is
no perceptible difference. They appear very
»oon after the herrings are gone, and seem
to be the spawn just vivified.
SPRING FRUIT—A Mock Goose-
berry Sauce for Mackerel, fyc. Make a
marmalade of three dozen sticks of rhubarb,
sweetened with moist sugar; pass it through
a hair sieve, and serve up in a sauce-boat.
SPRING FRUIT TART. Prepare
rhubarb as above: cut it into small pieces
into a tart-dish; sweeten with loaf-sugar
pounded; cover it with a good short crust
paste; sift a little sugar over the top, and
bake half an hour in a rather hot oven; serve
up cold.
SPRING CREAM, or Mock Goose-
berry Fool. Prepare a marmalade as di-
rected for the pudding: to which add a pint
of good thick cream; serve up in glasses, or
in a deep dish. If wanted in a shape, dis-
solve two ounces of isinglass in a little water;
strain it through a tamis, and when nearly
cold put it to the cream; pour it mto a jelly
mould, and when set, turn out into a dish,
and serve up plain.
SPRING FRUIT SHERBET. Boil
six or eight sticks of rhubarb (quite clean)
ten minutes in a quart of water; strain the
liquor through a tamis into a jug, with the
peel of a lemon cut very thin, and two table-
spoonfuls of clarified sugar; let it stand five
or six hours, and it is fit to drink.
SPRUCE BEER. See Beer.
SPROUTS AND YOUNG GREENS.
The receipt for cabbages will answer as well
for sprouts, only they will be boiled enough
in fifteen or twenty minutes.
STEAKS OR CHOPS. See Chops.
STOCK, FOR BROWN OR WHITE
SOUPS. Take a pound of scate, five floun-
ders, and two pounds of eels; cut them in
pieces, put them into a stewpan, with as
much water as will cover them, a little mace,
an onion stuck with cloves, a head of celery,
two parsley roots sliced, some pepper and
salt, and a bunch of sweet herbs; cover
close ; sttain it off for use; if it is for brown
soup, fry the fish brown in butter, and then
put it to stew.
STOCK, FOR GRAVY SOUP OR
GRAVY. Cut a knuckle of veal into sli-
ces, slice also a pound of lean beef, and a
pound of the lean of gammon of bacon; put
these into a stewpan, with tln-ee scraped
carrots, a couple of onions, a couple of tur-
nips, two heads of celery, and two quarts
of water. Let the meat stew till quite ten-
der, but it must not be brown. When thus
prepared it will serve either for soup, or
brown or white gravy; if for brown gravy,
it must be first colored in the usual manuer.
STOMACHIC TINCTURE. Peruvian
bark, bruised, one ounce and a half, orange-
peel, do. one ounce, brandy, or proof spirit,
one pint. Let these ingredients steep for
ten days, shaklng the bottle every day; let
it remain quiet two days, and then decant
the clear liquor. Dose—a tea-spoonful in


STR
STU
216
a wine-glass of water, twice a day, when
you feel languid, i. e. when the stomach is
empty, about an hour before dinuer, and in
the evening. This agreeable aromatic tonic
is an effective help to concoction; and we
are under personal obligations to it, for fre-
quently restoring our stomach to good tem-
per, and procuring us good appettte and good
digestion. In low nervous affections artsing
from a languid circulation, and when the
stomach is in a state of debility from age,
intemperance, or other causes, this is a most
acceptable restorative.
N. B.—Tea made with dried and bruised
orange-peel, in the same way as common
tea, and drank with milk and sugar, has
been taken by nervous and dyspeptic per-
sons with great benefit. Sucking a bit of
dried orange-peel about an hour liefore din-
ner, when the stomach is empty, is very
grateful and strengthening to it.
STRAWBERRY CREAM. Put six
ounces of strawberry jam to a pint of cream,
pulp it through a sieve; add to it the juice
of a lemon, whisk it fast at the edge of a
dish, lay tlte froth on a sieve, add a little
more jutce of lemon, and when no more froth
will rise, put the cream into a dish, or into
glasses; and place the froth upon it, well
drained,
STRAWBERRIES AND RASPBER-
RIES. From either of these fruits' agree-
able wine may be obtained, by following the
rules given for making currant wine; but it
will be found a cheaper and a better meth-
od, to add a little sirup or juice of the fruit
to any flavorless currant wine; when the
fermentation begins to decline, currant wine
may also be flavored with odoriferous flow-
ers, such as cowslip, elder, or mignionette.
The quality of roughness is communicated
by catechu and keno, chips of oak and of
beech, and also the sloe; a small quanttty
of these, or of the flowers, is put into the
cask when the first fermentation is over, and
as soon as the wine has acquired the desired
flavor, it is racked and fined. The flavor-
ing articles, such as orris-root, cloves, gin-
ger, sweet and bitter almonds, are put into
a muslin hag, and hung in the cask for a
few days, during the stage of insensible fer-
mentatton, that ts, after the first fermentation
has ceased; care being taken to taste the
liquor frequently, so that the flavoring mat-
ter may be withdraw*! as soon as it has pro-
duced the desired effect.
STRAWBERRIES, POUNDED, for
Strawberry Cream-. Take equal
weight of sugar and of strawberries; pound
and sift the sugar, add it to the strawberries, |
and pound them in a marble mortar till per- -
fectly smooth. Put tt into jars, and ti«
them over closely with paper. It will keep
good for several months.
STRAWBERRY SOUFFLE. Take
a basket of very fine strawberries, pick, and
crush them, and then rub them through a
sieve. Whisk the whites of eighteen eggs
to a firm froth, to which add a pound and a
half of powder sugar, stir them together as
lightly as possible; then mix them with the
strawberries. Pour the whole into a crous-
tade, and bake it for an hour in a moderate
oven; when done, glaze it, and serve.
STRAWBERRY TART. Pick, and
put into a basin two quarts of the best scar-
let strawberries, then add to them half a
pint of cold thick clarified sugar, and half
a pint of Madeira, with the juice of two or
three lemons; mix these well together, with-
out breaking the strawberries, and put them
into a puff paste, previously baked; be care-
ful to keep them very cool.
STRING BEANS. See French Beans.
STUFFING WITHOUT MEAT. Sea-
son a quarter of a pound of finely-minced
beef suet, and an equal quantity of grated
bread, with grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, lem-
on thyme, and parsley, salt, and pepper;
mix it well together, and bind it with a
well-beaten yolk of an egg, when it may be
used for stuffing veal and fowl.
STUFFING FOR TURKEY OR
FOWL. Wash a quart of oysters in thetr
own liquor, strain it, and put into it the
oysters, with a little mace, whole pepper,
and lemon-peel; when parboiled, chop small
a dozen and a half, add an equal weight of
grated bread, twice the quantity of finely-
minced beef suet, the yolks of three hard-
boiled eggs, one anchovy, a little salt, pep-
per, nutmeg, lemon-peel, and some minced
parsley; bind it with the beaten yolks of
two eggs. For the sauce, boil with the
liquor of the oysters, a pint of white stock,
half a pint of white wine, one anchovy,
pepper, salt, and nutmeg; strain it, and
add a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in
flour, beat it up with the remainder of the
oysters.
STUFFING FOR A HARE. Parboil
the liver, and mince it; add an equal quan-
tity of grated bread, double the quantity of
fat bacon chopped, a bit of butter the size
of a walnut. Season with pepper, sah, nut-
meg, chopped lemon thyme, and parsley;
bind with an egg beaten.
♦STUFFING FOR VEAL, ROAST


STU
217
sua
Turkey, Fowl, &c. Mince a quarter
of a pound of beef suet (beef marrow is let-
ter), the same weight of bread crumbs, two
drachms of parsley leaves, a drachm and a
half of sweet marjoram or lemon thyme, and
the sutr.e of grated lemon-peel and onion
chopped as fine as possible, a little pepper
and salt; pound thoroughly together with the
yc'.n. and white of two eggs, and secure it
m the veal with a skewer, or sew it in with
a bit of thread. Make some of it into balls
or sausages; flour them, and boil, or fry
them, and send them up as a garnish, or in
a side dish, with roast poultry, veal, or cut-
lets, &c.
N. B.—This is about the quantity for a
turkey poult: a very large turkey will take
nearly twice us much. To the above may
ne added an ounce of dressed bam; or use
equal parts of the above stuffmg and pork
sansage meal pounded well together.
Obs.—Good stuffing has always been con-
sidered a chief titing in cookery: it has given
immortality to
"P.,or Rover Fowler,who'd a eenerons mind,
Nor wouid submlt to have hts hand confin'd,
Cut alwe-l at :tfl,—yet never could e
S WE
S WE
218
dissolved, and when it boils up, pour in a
quarter of a pint of cold water; let it boil
up a second time; take it off the fire and let
it settle for fifteen minutes; carefully take
off all the scum; put it on the fire, and boil
it till sufficiently thick, or if required, till
candy high; in order to ascertain which,
drop a little from a spoon mto a small jar
of cold water, and if it become quite hard,
it is then sufficiently done; or dip the thevil
into the sugar, plunge it into cold waterT
draw off the sugar which adheres to the
stick, and if it be lard and snaps, the fruit
to be preserved must be instantly put in and
boiled.
SUGAR ORNAMENTS. See Car-
amef.
SUGAR RUFFS. A pound of pounded
and sifted loaf sugar beaten well with the
whites of three eggs, and flavored with oil
of cinuamon, lemons, or orange-flower wa-
ter, and baked in the same way as the
meringues, served in a napkinr or used to
garnish dishes of preserves.
SUGAR, TO BOIL. To every pound
of sugar allow half a pint of water; stir it
over the fire till the sugar be enttrely dissolv-
ed; when it first boils up, pour in a tittle
cold water, and when it boils a second time,
take it off the fire; let it settle ten minutes,
carefully scum it, and boil it for half an hour
or a little longer, and then put in the fruit.
SWEETBREADS, Italtan Atte-
lets. Blanch some nice sweetbreads, and
stew them in a well-seasoned gravy, made
of meat and vegetables; when cold, cut
them into pieces of nearly an inch square,
put them into a sauce d'attelets, and let
them cool. With silver skewers, skewer
the sweetbreads, and a bit of ready-dressed
calf's udder alternately; make them all as
much as possible of an equal size, and of a
square form. Moisten them with the sauce,
and cover them with grated bread, then
dip them into four well beaten eggs, strew
over them some more grated bread, and
level it with a knife; fry them of a fine
brown, and serve with an Italian sauce,
white or brown.
If the attelets are ready before they are
required to be fried, strew grated bread
over the cover of a stewpan, and lay them
upon it.
SWEETBREAD, TO BOIL. Parboil
it, rub it with butter, and broil it over a
slow fire, turn it frequently, and baste it
now and then, by putting tt upon a plate
kept warm by the fire with butter in it.
SWEETBREADS a la Daofhtbtk
If for a roond dish, take four large and fins
sweetbreads. If for a long dish, three wil(
suffice. Pare off the fat and sinews, and
blanch them in warm water, parboil them,
and when cold, lard them. Rub a stew-
pan with fresh butter, and ptn: into it a few
sliced carrots and onions, then a layer of
slices of fat bacon, place the sweetbreads
upon the bacon, sprinkle a little salt over
them, and stew them with a great deal of
fire on the top, and a very slow one be-
neath; when they are nicely browned, cover
them with a piece of buttered paper, cut
round, and lessen the fire upon the top.
They will require to stew for three-quarters
of an hour, then drain- and put them into a
pan with some glaze, and the bacon under-
neath. Leave them- in the glaze till dinuer
time.
SWEETBREADS FULL DRESSED.
Parboil them, and let them get cold; thes
cut them in pieces, about fhree-q.uarters of an
inch thick; dip them in the yolk of an egg,
then m fine bread crumbs (some add spice,
leiBonvpeel, and sweet herbs); put some
clean dripping into a frying-pan:- when ifi
boils, put in the sweetbreads, and fry them
a fine blown- For garnish, crisp parsley
and for sauce, mushroom ketchup and roeltect
butter, or anchovy sauce, or. bacon or ham.
SWEETBREADS, SMALL CASES
of Scollops of, Blanch and parboil
some sweetbreads, cut them into small scol-
lops. Then chop separately, and-finely, half
a pint of mushrooms, a little parsley, and
four or five shallots, add a little fat bacoo>
rasped, and a piece of fresh buttery season.
the scollops with pepper, salt, and a little
mace, stew it all together over a slow fire?
when done, drain off the fat, place the scol-
lops in small paper cases, which have been
frted in olive oil, cover them with plenty off
finely-chopped herbs, and strew over them
fried bread crumbs; lay the paper cases for
a moment into the oven, and before serving,
pour into each a little rich gravy, and a little
lemon-juice.
SWEET HERBS. See Herbs.
SWEETMEAT FRITTERS. Cut
small any sort of candied fruit. and heal it
with a btt of fresh butter, some good milk,
and a little grated lemon-peel; when quite
hot, stir in enough of flour to make it into a
stiff paste, take it off the fire, and work in
eight, or ten eggs, two at a time; when
cold, form the fritters, and fry, and serve
them with pounded loaf sugar strewed over
them.


STL
TAR
SYLLABUBS. Take the juice of a
.arge lemon, the,peel (pared very thin), a
glass of brandy, two of white wine, and a
quarter of a pound of powder-sugar; put
these ingredients intoa pan,and leave them;
the next day, add a pint of thick cream, and
the whites of two eggs; whip the whole
well, and pour the syllabub into glasses.
They are the better for keeping a day or
two. If the syllabubs are not wanted quite
so good as the above, raisin or mountain
wine will do as well as brandy.
SYLLABUB, Somersetshtre. Put
a pint of Port, and a pint of Sherry, or
any other white wine, into a large bowl,
sweeten it according to taste; milk the bowl
full; in about twenty minutes' time, cover
it tolerably high with clouted cream; grate
nutmeg over it; add pounded cinuamon, and
nonpareils.
SYLLABUB, Staffordshtre. Put
a pint of cider, a glass of brandy, sugar, and
nutmeg, into a bowl, and milk into it; or
pour warm milk from a large tea-pot some
height into it.
SYLLABUB. (1) One pound of ratafia
cakes pounded and steeped in two bottles
of Port wine, one of claret, and one of
brandy, the grated peel and juice of two
lemons, one large nutmeg grated, and two
ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and
pounded with a little rose-water, and pound-
ed sugar sufficient to make it sweet—Put
ail these ingredtents, well mixed, into a
large China bowl, or bowls of an equal size,
and let the milk of a good cow be milked
upon them; add a little rich cream and sift-
ed loaf sugar, and cover it to keep it warm.
It may be served out into glasses with a silver
ladle.
SYLLABUB. (2) A large gWof Madei-
ra, one of rich sweet wine, and half a one of
ratafta, half a pound of pounded loaf' sugar,
the grated peel of a large lemon, the juice
of two, and a little pounded cinuamon; stir
it all together till the sugar be dissolved, and
add a quart of rich cream; whisk it well;
lay some macaroons into the bottom of a
dish, and pile the frothed syllabub high upon
it. It may be kept nine or ten days, and is
better the third and fourth than when first
made.
SYLLABUB, SOLID. A quarter of a
pint of mountain, the same of white wine,
the grated peel of two, and juice of one
lemon; sweeten, and add it to a quart of
•'ich cream; whisk it for an hour, and put it
into glasses. It will keep a week in cold
weather.
SYLLABUB, COMMON. Half a pmt
of currant, the same of Port 01 white wine,
half a grated nutmeg, and the peel of a
lemon; sweeten well with pounded loaf or
good brown sugar, and mix it together in a
China bowl, and when the sugar dissolves,
milk upon it three or four pmts of milk.
Serve it when cold.
SYLLABUB, VVHIPT. (1) Mix to-
gether half a glass of brandy, a little lemon-
juice, and grated peel, with sugar enough to
sweeten the whole; stir it into a pint of
thick cream, and add the well-beaten whites
of six egss; whisk it for an hour, and put
the froth, as it rises, upon a sieve to drain;
put a little Port and sweet wine into glasses,
and ftll them up with the froth.
SYLLABUB, WHIPT. (2) Mix with
a pint of cream, half a pint of sweet wine,
a glass of brandy, the juice of a lemon, grat-
ed nutmeg, six ounces of sifted loaf sugar:
nearly fill the custard-glasses with the mix-
ture, and lay on with a spoon some of the
whip.
T,
TAMIS, a coarse kind of cloth for strain-
ing soups and gravies.
TARTE, ROYAL BERLIN. Take
half a pound of sweet almonds, and having
blanched, pound them with six eggs, in a
marble moi tar to a very fine paste, add to it
a pound of broken sugar, a pound of fresh
butter, and the grated rind of two lemons,
beat it well as each ingredient is put in;
lay about sixteen or eighteen ounces of sift-
ed flour on tlie slab, place the almond paste
on it, and knead them well together. Di-
vide this into several pieces, which roll to
the eighth of an inch in thickness; from
these cut from twelve to sixteen circular
layers, the largest about seven inches in
diameter, the rest, each somewhat smaller
than the other; when all are cut, place them
on white paper on tins, and bake them in a
moderate oven to a clear brown, then take
them out, and let them cool. As soon as
cold, place the largest piece on a China
dish, of a sufficient size to let it lay flat, and
spread over it equally some preserved fruit;
cover this with the second sized layer, on
which also spread preserved fruit; then a
third layer, and so on until all the paste is
used, taking care to put each layer in its
proper order, so that the whole may form a
cone, and that lietween every one must be
a different kind of preserve; when done,
glaze, and ornament it as follows: cut some


TARTS
TARTS
220
candied lemon, and orange-peel iuto the
(brm of leave.s, which arrange in garlands
wind the latt, putting here and there a
*m,dl Iiieserved I'niit; when dune, replace il
in the nven f ir two or three mmutes to ilv^ ,
and then serve.
TARTLETS. (1) Butter some small
tartlet pans; line them with a nice thin
puff pas'e, mark it neatly round the edges,
hake them; when they are cold, fill thent
with custard, preserve, or any sweetmeat
you think proper, and if you choose, pour
custard over.
TARTLETS. (2) Roll out the paste
about a quarter of an inch thick, and lay
upon it the top part of the patty-pan; cut it
round with the paste cutter. Rub the patty-
pans with a little I Hitter, and line them with
the paste, and place in the middle a little bit of
bread, which take out w hen they are baked.
They may lie filli*d with any preserved fruit,
and a star or leaf of paste placed on the top.
To make ornameots of paste, roll it quite
thin, and as even as possible; cut it with
tin stars, leaves, or any other form, and
bake them a light brown color, upon tiut
tins dusted with flour.
TART, APPLE, CREAMED. Use
green codlings, in preference to any other
apple, and proceed as in the last receipt.
When the pie is done, cut out the whole of
the ceutre, leaving the edges; when cold,
pour on the apple some rich boiled custard,
and place round it some small leaves of puff
paste of a light color.
TART, CHERRY. The cherries may
be stoned, and a few red currauts added;
sweeten with loaf or brown sugar, and put
iuto the bottom of the dish a small tea-cup;
cover it with paste.
TART, CRANBERRY. Take cran-
berries, pick and wash them in several wa-
ters, put them iuto a dish, with the juice of
half a lemon, a quarter of a pound of moist
or pounded loaf sugar, to a quart of cran-
berries. Cover it with puff or tart paste
and bake it three-quarters of an hour; if
tart paste is used, draw it from the oven
five minutes before it is done, and ice it, re-
turn it to the oven, and send it to table
cold.
TART, CURRANT. To a quart of
red curraots add one piut of red rasp*ber-
ries, strawberries, or cherries; sweeten them
well with brown sugar; before putting in
the fruit, line the side of the dish with tart
paste, place in it a small tea-cup, put in the
fruit, and cover it with paste
Four ounces of brown sugar are general
ly allowed to a quart of fruit.
TART OF PRESERVED FRUIT.
Cover a tlat dish, or tomte pan, with tarl
paste, about an eighth of an inch thick; roll
out puff paste, half an inch thick, and cut it
out in strips an mch wide; wet the tart
paste, and lay it neatly round the pan by
way of a rim; fill the ceutre with jam or
marmalade of any kind, ornameot it with
small leaves of puff paste, bake it half an
hour, and send it to table cold.
The above may he filled before the puff
paste ts laid on, neatly strung with paste,
and the rim |mt over after.
The most general way of sending tourtea
to table, is with a croquaute of paste, or a
caramel of spun sugar put over after it is
baked.
TARTS, PRESERVE FRUIT. Rub
over with a little butter an oval dish, or tin
shape, line it with paste, and fill it with any
sort of preserved fruit. Roll out a bit of
paste thin, and, with a paste cutter, cut it
iuto narrow stripe; brush with water the
rim of the shape, and lay the bars of paste
across and across, and then put round a
border of paste, and mark it with the paste
cutter.
TARTS, RIPE FRUIT. Gooselierries,
damsons, morello cherries, currauts mixed
with raspberries, plums, green gages, white
plums, &c. should be quite fresh picked, and
washed: lay them in the dish with the ceutre
highest, and about a quarter of a pound of
moist or loaf sugar pounded to a quart of
fruit (but if quite ripe they will not require
so much); add a little water; rub the edges
of the dish with yolk of egg; cover it with
tart paste, about half an inch thick; press
your thumb round the rim, and close it well;
pare it round with a knife; make a hole in
the sides below the rim; bake it in a mode-
rate-heated oven; and ten minutes before it
is done, take it out and ice it, and return it
to the oven to dry.
TART, RHUBARB. Strip off the peel,
and if the rhubarb is large, cut it iuto two
or three strips, and then iuto bits about an
inch long; sweeten well with brown sugar
and cover the dish with paste.
TART PASTE, FOR FAMILY PIES.
Rub in with the hand half a pound of butter
iuto one pound and a quarter of flour, mix it
with hall'a piut of water, and knead it weil.
TART PASTE, Sweet, or Short
and Crisped. To one pound and a quar-
ter of fine flour add ten ounces of fresh butter,


TF W
r a
the yolks of two eggs beaten, and three oun-
ces of sifted loaf sugar; mix up together with
half a pint of new milk, and knead it well.
N. B.—This crust is frequently iced,
TEA CREAM. Infuse an ounce of the
best green tea in half a pint of boiling milk,
simmer it five minutes, then strain it through
a tammy, pressing the leaves well. Boil a
pint of rich cream, add to it the yolks of four
eggs, well beaten, and a sufftcient quantity
of clarified sugar; pour this whilst hot to the
milk, stir them together well; put in as much
clarified isinglass as will set it, and pour the
cream into the mould, or glasses; place them
on ice; when perfectly cold, turn it out of
the mould, or serve in the glasses.
TEAL, ROASTED. Shred a little
lemon-peel, and mix it with a bit of butter,
salt, pepper, and lemon-juice; stuff your
birds with this, cover them first with slices
of lemon, then bacon, and lastly, buttered
paper sprinkled with salt; tie them up se-
curely, fasten them to the spit, and roast
them. When done, let the butter run out,
remove the wrappers, and dish them. Serve
them with a sauce made as follows: put into
a saucepan three ladlefuls of espagnole, a
spoonful of consomme, a bit of glaze, the
rind of a quarter of a lemon, and a little pep-
per; give them a boil up together, and strain
tt over the teal.
TENCH. They are a fine-flavored fresh
water fish; wheh good, the eyes are bright,
the body stiff, and the outside free from slime;
tench should be dressed as soon as caught,
TENCH, FRIED. Take a couple of
large tench, scale and cleanse them as for
broiling. Cut off the fins, split them down
the back, take out the bones; sprinkle them
with flour and salt; squeeze a little lemon-
juice over, and fry them in butter, and serve
them dry.
TENCH, ROASTED. Take off scales,
heads, and fins, of the tench, cleanse and dry
them well, then put into each a little butter^
mixed wiut sweet herbs; lay them for about
fhe minutes in molted butter, with salt, pep-
per, and sweet herbs; wrap each fish in pa-
per, fasten mem to a spit, and roast them.
TEWAHDIDDLE. A pint of table
beer (or ale, if you intend it for a supplement
to your "night cap"), a table-spoonful of
brandy, and a tea-spoonfut of brown sugar,
or clarified sirup; a little grated nutmrg or
ginger may be added, and a roll of very thin-
cut lemon-peel.
Obs.—Befbre our readers make any re-
marks on this composition, we beg of them
to taste tt: if the materials are good, ana
their palate vibrates in unison with our own,
they will find it one of the pleasantest bever-
ages they ever put to their lips; and, as Lord
Ruthven says, i' this is a rtght gossip's cup
that far exceeds all the ale that ever Mother
Bunch made in her life-time."
THICKENING, Clarified butter is best
for this purpose; but tf you have none ready,
put some fresh butter into a stewpan over a
slow, clear fire; when it is melted, add fine
flour sufficient to make it the thickness of
paste; stir it well together with a wooden
spoon for fifteen or twenty minutes, till it is
quite smooth, and the color of a guinea: this
must be done very gradually and patiently;
if you put it over too fierce a fire to hurry it,
it will become bitter and empyreumatic: pour
it into an earthen pan, and keep it for use.
It will keep good a fortnight in summer, and
longer in winter.
A large spoonful will generally be enough
to thicken a quart of gravy.
Obs.—This, in the French kitchen, is
called roux. Be particularly attentive in
making it; if it gets any burnt smell or
taste, it will spoil every thing it ts put into.
When cold, it should be thick enough to cut
out with a knife, ltke a solid paste.
It is a very essential article in thekitchen.
and is the basis of consistency in most made-
dishes, soups, sauces, and ragouts; if the
gravies, &c. are too thin, add this thicken-
ing, more or less, according to the consistence
you would wish them to have.
Mem.—In making thickening, the less-
butter, and the more flour you use, the bet-
ter; they must be thoroughly worked to-
gether, and the broth, or soup, &c. you put
them to, added by degrees: take especial
care to incorporate them well together, or
your sauces, &c. will taste floury, and have
a disgusting, greasy appearance: therefore,
after you have thickened your sauce, add to
it sonie broth, or warm water, in the pro-
portion of two table-spoonfuls to a pint, and
set it by the side of the fire, to raise any fat,
&c . that is not thoroughly incorporated with
the gravy, which you must carefully remove
as it comes to the top. This ts called
cleansing, or finishing the sauce.
Half an ounce of butter, and a table-spoon-
ful of flour, are about the proportion for a
pint of sauce to make it as thick as cream.
N. B.—The fat skimmings off the top
of the broth-pot are sometimes substituted
for butter; some cooks merely thicken their
soups and sauces with flour.
TIMBALE. Put a pound of flour on
the slab, .make a hole in the middle of it,
into which pour a little water, three or four
spoonfuls of oil, a quarter of a pound of but-
18*


TO A
TOM
222
Cer, the yolks of two eggs, and a pinch of
salt; knead these ingredieuts thoroughly iuto
the flour, uutil it becomes a tolerably firm
paste; roll it out to nearly half an inch in
thickness, line one large, or several small
plain round moulds, with this paste; let the
moulds be well buttered, and the paste come
about half an inch above the top of the mould;
fill your timbale with any farce, or ragout,
you think proper, cover it with a layer of
paste, pressing the edges together; bake it,
and when done, turn the timbale on a dish,
make a hole, pour in some rich sauce or
gravy, and serve.
TINCTURE OF ALLSPICE. Of
allspice bruised, three ounces, apothecaries'
weight; brandy, a quart. Let it steep a
fortnight, occasionally shaking it up; then
pour oft' the clear liquor: it is a most grateful
addition in all cases where allspice is used,
for making a bishop, or to mulled wine ex-
tempore, or in gravies, &c. or to flavor and
preserve potted meats.
TIPSY CAKE. Pour over a sponge
cake, made in the form of a porcupine, as
much white wine as it will absorb, and stick
it all over with blanched sweet almonds, cut
like straws; or pour wine in the same man-
ner Over a thick slice of sponge cake, cover
the top of it with preserved strawberries or
raspberries, and stick cut almonds all round it.
TOAST AND CHEESE. See Cheese.
TOAST, WITH BUTTER. Spread
butter over some slices of fried bread; lay
on them sweet herbs, tossed up in melted
butter, and serve.
TOASTS, GENOA. Lard a French
roll with partly anchovies, and partly ham;
cut the roll iuto slices, lay on each a thin
slice of bacon, dip them iuto batter, and fry
them; drain, and serve with ravigote.
TOASTS, GRENADA. Cut some fat
and lean bacon iuto dice, give them a few
turns over the fire with parsley, scallions,
shallots, pepper, sail, and the yolks of three
eggs; stir it frequeutly, till it forms a kind
of forcemeat, spread it over slices of bread,
cut of an equal thickness, and fry them.
TOASTS, ITALIAN. Cut s me slices
of bread, about half an inch in thickness,
fry them in sweet oil, let it be dry, and
crisp, lay them on a dish, and spread over
them any light good farce you may think
**oper; pour over them an appropriate
-*uce and serve them.
TOAST AND WATER. Pare the
crust off a thin slice of stale bread, toast
it brown upon both sides, doing it equally
and slowly, that it may harden without being
burut; put it iuto a jug, and pour upon it
boiling water; cover the jug with a saucer,
and set it in a cool place.
TOASTS, SPANISH. Roll out some
almond paste, nearly an inch thick, cut it
iuto pieces, about two inches square, press
them down with a square piece of wood, a
little smaller than the paste, which will lea**;
the edges higher than the rest; bake the n,
and when cold, pour in any prepared cream
you please, as high as the borders; ice, and
color them with a salamander.
TOMATA SAUCE. Bake six tomat o
in an oven till (mite soft; with a tea-spoon
take out the pulp, add salt, cayenue, and
vinegar, till of the consistence of thick cream.
TOMATA SOUP. Wash, scrape, and
cut small the red part of three large carrots,
three heads of celery, four large onions, and
two large turnips, put them iuto a saucepan,
with a table-spoonful of butter, and half a
pound of lean new ham; let them stew very
geotly for an hour, then add three .quarts of
brown gravy soup, and some whole black
pepper, with eight or ten ripe tomatas; let
it boil an hour and a half, and pulp it through
a sieve; serve it with fried bread cut in dice.
TOMATA SAUCE, ERENCH. Cut
ten or a dozen tomatas iuto quarters, and
put them iuto a saucepan, with four on-
ions sliced, a little parsley, thyme, one dove,
and a quarter of a pound of butter; set the
saucepan on the fire, stirring occasionally for
three-quarters of an hour; strain the sauce
through a horse-hair sieve, and serve w ith
the directed articles.
TOMATA SAUCE, ITALIAN. Tflke
five or six onions, slice, and put them iuto
a saucepan, with a little thyme, bay-leaf,
twelve or fifteen tomatas, a bit of butter,
salt, half a dozen allspice, a little India saf-
fron, and a glass of stock; set them on the
fire, taking care to stir it frequency, as it is
apt to stick; when you perceive the sauce is
tolerably thick, strain it like a p irr*.
TO 'ATA KETCHUP. (1) Take u nn-
tas when fully ripe, bake them in a jar till
tender strain them, and rub them through a
sieve. To every pound of juice, add a piut
of Chili vinegar, an ounce of shallots, half ap
ounce of garlic, both sliced, a quarter of an
ounce of salt, and a quarter of an ounce of
white pepper, finely powdered; boil the
whole till every ingredieut is soft, rub it
again through the sieve. To every pound


TOM
TON
223
add the juice of three lemons; boil it agam
to the consistence of cream; when cold, bot-
tle it, put a small quantity of sweet oil on
each, tie bladders over, and keep it in a dry
place.
TOMATA KETCHUP, (2) Gather a
peck of tomatas, pick out the stems, and
wash lltem; put them on the fire without
water; sprinkle on a few spoonfuls of salt;
let them boil steadily an hour, stirring them
frequently ; strain them through a colander
and then through a sieve; put the liquid on
the fire with half a pint of chopped onions,
eighth of an ounce of mace broke into email
pieces, and if twt sufficiently salt, add a little
more; one table-spoonful of whole black
pepper; boil all together until just enough
to fill two bottles; cork it tight.
[The seasoning may be varied to suit the
taste. Allspice insb ad of mace—common
red pepper instead of black pepper, and less
chopped onion.]
TOMATO KETCHUP. (3) One gal-
lon skinued tomatas, four table-spoons of
salt, four do. black pepper, two do. allspice,
eight pods red pepper, eight table-spoons of
mustard seed. These articles to be bruised
fine and simmered slowly in a pint of vinegar
three hours; then stramed through a hair
sieve. To be stewed down to half a gallon
of ketchup.
TOMATAS, METHOD OF PRE-
SERVING. (1) A sufficient quantity of salt,
is dissolved in spring or river water to make
it strong enough to bear an egg; select per-
fectly ripe tomatas, and place them well and
without pressing them, in a stone or glazened
earthen pot, with a deep plate in such a
manuer that it presses upon the fruit, and by
this simple process tomatas may be preserved
more than a year without attention. Before
coding them they should be soaked in fresh
water for several hours.
TOMATAS, METHOD OF PRE-
SERVING. (2) Gather them carefully
without bruising; put them in a stone jar,
and pour in strong brine, to the top—putting
on a light weight to keep them gently pressed
down below the surface of the brine. Soak
them in fresh water and cook them in the
usual way, seasoning to suit tire taste, as
when fresh from tlre vine.
TOMATA MARMALADE. Gather
fall-grown tomatas while quite green; take
®ut tbe stems and stew them till soft; rub
dtem through a sieve; put tlre pulp on the
lire, seasoned highly with pepper, salt and
powdered cloves; add some garlic, and stew
all together till thick. It keeps well, and is
excellent for seasoning gravies. Besides lb*
numerous modes of preparing this delictum
vegetable tor the table, it may be stewevt,
after being peeled, with sugar, like cranber-
ries and gooseberries, producing a tart equal
to either of those fruits. Tomatas make
good pickles, pickled green; to peel them,
pour boiling water on them, when the sKtn
will come off easily.
TONGUE. (I) A tongue which hrt!.
not been dried will require very little so.,t*
ing, but if dried, it should be soaked
water for three or four hours; then put it
into cold water, and Set it boil gently ttt*
tender,
TONGUE. (2) A tongue is so hard,
whether prepared by drying or pickling, tlurt
tt require* much wore cooking than a hu,w;
nothing of its weight takes so long to dif-ss
it properly.
A tongue that bus Ix^en- salted and drwti
should be put to soak (if it ia old and very
hard, 24 hours before it is wanted) in pleti-
ty of water; a green one fresh from the pWi-
kle requires soaking only a few bours: p*H
your tongue into plenty of cold water; lef
it be an hour gradually warming; and g,ve
it from three and a butf to four hours' very
slow simmering, accordmg to the size, &r.
06s.—When you choose a tongue, en-
deavor to learn how long it luts been drted
or pickled, pick out the plumpest, and that
which ham Ike smoothest skin, which de-
notes its being young and tender.
The roots, &c. make an excellent relish
potted, or peas soup.
TONG'IE, TO STEW. Wash it very
clean, atrcl rub it well with common salt and
a little: saltpetre; let it lie two or three days,
and then boil it till the skm will pull off.
Put it into a saucepan, with part of the li-
quor it has been boiled in, and a pint of
good stock. Season with black and Ja-
maica pepper, and two or three pounded
cloves; add a glass of white wine and a
table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and
one of lemon pickle; thicken the sauce with
butter rolled in hour, and pour it over tire
tongue.
TONGUE, PICKLED, GLAZED.
Boil a large tongue till it be tender, skin
and glaze it, and serve it with mashed tur-
nips on one side, aml mashed carrots, or
carrots and spinach on tire other.
TONGUE, POTTED, See Ham.
TONGUES, TO SALT. Salt two
tongues, and turn them every day for four or
five days; then rub them with two ounces


T R 1
r r i
of common salt, one of brown sugar, and half
An ounce of saltpetre; turn them daily, and
in a I'M might they may be used.
The best sort of vessel for salting them
in is an earthen-ware pan, as wide at top
as bottom, so that the tongues may lie in it
long-ways.
TRIFLE. (1) Add to a pint of rich
cream a lea-cupful of white wine, sweeten it
with pounded loaf sugar, whisk it well, and
as the froth rises lay it upon a sieve placed
over a deep dish; as it drains, pour the
cream into the pan in which it is whisked
till all is done ; dip some sponge biscuit, rata-
fia cakes, or Savoy biscuit, into sweet wine
and a little brandy; pour over them a rich
boiled custard, and when quite cold, lay on
the whlpt cream, piled as high as possible.
Colored comftts may be strewed over the
top.
TRIFLE. (2) Mix three table-spoon-
fuls of white wine, and one of sugar, with a
pint and a half of thick cream; whisk it,
and takeoff as much froth as will heap upon
the dish, into which lay some pieces of
sponge cake, or some sponge biscuit, soaked
with sweet wine, and covered with preserv-
ed strawberries, or any other fruit; pile the
froth upon this, and pour the remainder of
the cream into the bottom of the dish; gar-
nish with flowers.
TRIFLE. (3) Cover the bottom of
the dish with Naples biscuits, and maca-
roons, broke in halves, wet with brandy and
white wine, poured over them; cover them
with patches of raspberry jam; fill the dish
with a good custard, then whip a sylla-
bub, drain the froth on a sieve; put it on
the custard, and strew comfits over all.
TRIPE. Take care to have fresh tripe;
cleanse it well from the fat, and cut it into
pieces about two inches broad and four long;
put it into a stewpan, and cover it with
milk and water, and let it boil gently till it
is tender.
If the tripe has been prepared as it usual-
ly is at the tripe shops, it will he enough in
about an hour, (this depends upon how long
it has been previously boiled at the tripe
shop); if entirely undressed, it will require
two or three hours, according to the age
and quality of it.
Make some onion sauce in the same man-
ner as you do for rabbits, or boil (slowly by
themselves) some Spanish or the whitest
common onions you can get; peel them be-
fore you boil them; when they are tender,
which a middling-sized onion will be in
about three-quartet's of an hour* drain them
in a hair sieve, take off the top skins till
they look nice and white, and put them
with the tripe into a tureen or soup-dish,
and take oil' the fat if any floats on the
surface.
06s.—Rashers of bacon, or fried sau-
sages are a very good accompaniment to
boiled tripe, cow-heels or calf's feet, see
Kelly's sauce or parsley and butter, or ca-
per sauce, with a little vinegar and mus-
tard added to them, or salad mixture.
Tripe holds the same rank among solids,
that water gruel does among soups, and the
former is desirable at dinner, when the lat-
ter is welcome at supper.
TRIPE, TO FRY. Cut it into bits
three or four inches square; make a batter
thicker than for pancakes, of three eggs
beaten up with flour and milk, a little salt,
pepper, and nutmeg; dip in the tripe, and
fry it in butter, or fresh dripping, of a light
brown color. Serve it garnished with pars-
ley. Sauce;—melted butter with Len,ot/
pickle in it.
TRIPE PIE. Lay into the bottom of
a dish some thinly-sliced cold or raw ham.
then put in a layer of tripe with the jeliy
adhering to it, season with pepper and stlt,
and add a bit of butter; fill the dish in this
manuer^ and put in a few table-spoonfuls
of brown stock; cover the dish with Iniff
paste. A beefsteak may be substituted for
the ham, laid into the bottom, and the dish
filled up with tripe.
TRIPE, TO BOIL. Clean it extreme-
ly well, and take off the fat; let it lie a
night in salt-and-water, again wash it well,
and let it lie in milk-and-water for the same
length of tune; then cut it into small pieces,
roll and tie them with thread; put them,
with a clean-washed marrow-bone, into a
linen Iiag; tie it closely, and put it in|p a
stewpan that has a cover to fit quite close-
ly, fill it up with water, and let it boil
gently for six hours. Take the tripe out
of the bag, put it into a jar, and pour over
it the liquor in which it was boiled. When
to hc dressed, boil some whole small onions
in a part of the liquor, add a little salt, then
put in the tripe and heat it thoroughly.
Or it may be fried in butter fricasseed, or
stewed in a brown sauce.
Instead of being boiled in a bag, the tripe
may be put, with some salt and whole pep-
per, into a stone-ware jar, which must have
a piece of linen tied over it, and a plate laid
upon the top. The pot should always be
kept full of boiling water, taking care that
it do not boil into the jar.
TRIPE, TO ROAST. Cut the tripe
into two oblong pieces, make a forcemeat


TRO
TIM
of bread crumbs and chopped parsley, sea-
soned with pepper and salt; bind it with
the yolks of two eggs; spread it upon die
f:tt stde of the tripe, and lay on the other
fat side; then roll it very tightly, and tie it
with packthread. Roast, and baste it with
butter: it will take one hour, or one hour
and a half. Serve it with melted butter,
into which put a table-spoonful of ketchup
and one of lemon pickle.
TRIPE, BREADED. Cut your tripe
into s.mall square pieces, and give them a
few turns in some butter, witb parsley, salt,
and pepper; roll each bit in grated bread,
and broil them slowly. When done, serve
them with slices of lemon.
TROUT. This fish is held in great
estimation, it is a fresh water fish, and
when good, of a flesh color, and the spots
upon it are very bright; the female is con-
sidered the best, and is known by the head
being smaller, and the body being deeper
- than that of the male.
TROUT, POTTED. Mix together
t,he following quantity of finely-powdered
spices:—One ounce of cloves, half an ounce
of Jamaica pepper, quarter of an ounce of
black pepper, quarter of an ounce of cay-
enue, two nutmegs, a little mace, and two
tea-spoonfnfe of ginger; add the weight of
the spices, and half as much again of salt,
and mix all thoroughly. Clean the fish, and
nut offtlte heads, fins, and tails; put a.tea-
spoonful of the mixed spices into each fish,
and lay them into a deep earthen jar, with
the backs downwards; cover them with
clarified butter, tie a paper over the mouth
of the jar, and bake them slowly tor eight
hours. When the back bone is tender, the
fish are done enough. Take them out of
the jar, and put them into a milk pan with
the backs upwards; cover ti,^m with a
board, and place upon it a heavy weight.
When perfectly cold, remove the fish into
fresh jars, smooth them with a knife, and
cover them with clarified butter.
TROUT, TO COLLAR. Wash them
clean, split them down the back bone, and
dry them well in a cloth; season them well
with finely-pounded black pepper, salt, and
mace; roll them tight, and lay them close
into a dish; pour over an equal quantity of
vinegar and beer, with two or three bay-
leaves, and some whole black pepper; tie
over the dish a sheet of Iwttered paper, and
bake them an hour.
TROUT, TO BROIL. Cut off the fins,
and cut the fish down the back, close to the
bone, and split the head in two. Another
| way is, after they have been cut open, to
1 rub a little salt over them; let them lie three
j or tour hours, and then hang them up in the
I kitchen. They will be ready to broil the
next morning for breakfast.
TROUT, TO BOIL. Clean and gut
1 them; make the water as salt as for boil-
ing salmon in, and when it boils put in the
trout, and let them boil fast from fifteen
to twenty minutes, according to their size
Sauce;—^netted butter.
TROUT, TO FRY. Cut ofT the fins,
clean and gut them; dust them with flour,
and dip them into the yolk of an egg beaten;
strew grated bread crumbs over, and fry them
in fresh dripping; lay them upon the back
of a sieve before the fire to drain. Sauce;
—melted butter, with a table-spoonful of
ketchup, and one of lemon pickle in it.
When they are small, roll them in oatmeal
before they are fried.
TRUFFLES. The truffle, like the mush-
room, is a species of fungus common in
France and Italy; it generally grows about
eight or ten mches below the surface of the
ground; as it imparts a most delicious flavor,
it is much used in cookery. Being dug out
of the earth, it requires a great deal of wash-
ing and brushing, before it can be applied to
culinary purposes; when washed, the water
should be warm, and changed frequently. It
loses much of its flavor when dried.
TRTIFFLE SAUCE. Mince two 01
three truffles very small, and toss them up
! lightly, in either oil or butter, according to
i your taste; then put to them four or five la-
, dleftds of veloute and a spoonful of con-
somme; let it boil for about a quartet
of an hour over a gentle fire, skim off at
the fat; keep your sauce hot m the bain
marie.
TRUFFLES TOURTE. Take two
pounds of fme truffles, wash and pick them;
put them into a stewpan, with six thin sllces
of ham, a very little carrot, a sliced onion,
a bay-leaf, sweet herbs in powder, salt, atm
Champagne; lay rashers of bacon over the
whole, and stew them to nearly a jelb.
When cold, put the truffles into a crust with
all the seasoning; bake the Umrte,and serve
as usual.
TUNBRIDGE CAKES Rub two
ounces of butter into half a pound of dried
flour; add a few caraway seeds, and a quat -
ter of a pound of pounded loaf sugar; mix
it to a stiff paste with a little water, roll it
I out very thin, cut it into round cakes with
i a glass or the top of a dredging box, prick


TUB
T C R
220
Mem with a fork, and bake them upon
floured tins.
TUNBRIDGE PUFFS. Put into a
nicely-tinued sutK'e|wm a pint of milk, and
when it boils, stir in aa much flour as will
make it a thick batter; add three well-
be.,ten eggs, and two or three drops of oil
of cinuamon, or any other seasoning; dust
a large flat plate with flour, with a spoon
throw on it the hatter, in the form of halls
or fritteis, and drop them into boiling cla-
rified dripping or lard. Serve them with
pounded loaf sugar strewed over.
The Iwtter may be made into a pudding,
adding with the eggs an ounce of salt but-
ter, lioil and serve it with a sweet sauce.
TURBOT. Turbot, when good, should
be thick and full, and the telly of a yellow-
ish white or cream color.
TURBOT, BAKED. Wash vour 6sh
in several waters, dry it well, anof soak it
in melted I xttter, with sweet herbs, parsley,
pepper, salt, and nutmeg; in half an hour
put the whole into a baking dish, envelope
it completely in bread crumbs, and bake it.
TURBOT, BREADED. Prepare a
small turbot as usual, slit it across the back,
and soak it for an hour in melted butter,
or lemon-juice, with parsley, sweet herbs,
salt, and pepper. Cover the fish with
bread crumbs, and broil it; when done,
squeeze lemon, or Seville orange-juice over
it, and serve.
TURBOT, STUFFED AND BAKED.
Your turbot being properly cleansed, turn
over the skin of the under side, without cut-
ting it off; make a. farce, with some butter,
parsley, scullions, morels, sweet herbs, all
shred, and 'unite:l together, with yolks of
eggs, and seasoned with pepper and salt;
spread this all over the under part of the
fish, cover it with the skin, and sew it up.
Dissolve some butter in a saucepan; add to
it when melted, the yolk of an egg, sweet
herbs shred, salt, and pepper; rub the fish
all over with this, then bread, and bake it.
TURBOT, TO BOIL. (1) This excellent
fish is in season the greatest part of the sum-
mer; when good, it is at once firm and ten-
der, and abounds with rich gelatinous nu-
triment.
Being drawn,.and washed clean, if it be
quite fresh, by rubbmg it lightly with salt,
and keeping it in a cold place, you may in
moderate weather preserve it for a couple
of days.
An hour or two before you dress it, soak
it in spring water with some salt in it, then
score the skin across the thickest part of
the back, to prevent its breaking on the
breast, whtch will happen from the fish
swelling, and cracking the skin, if this pre-
caution be not used. Put a large handful
of salt into a fish-kettle with cold water,
lay your fish on a fish-strainer, put it in,
and when it is coming to a boii, skim it
well; then set the kettle on the side of the
fire, to boil as gently as possible for alxrnt
fifteen or twenty minutes (if it boils fast,
tlte fish will break to pieces); supposing it
a middling-sized turbot, and to weigh eight
or nine pounds.
Rub a little of the inside red coral spawn
of the lobster through a hair sieve, with-
out butter; and when the turbot is dished,
sprinkle the spawn over it. Garnish the
dish with sprigs of curled parsley, sliced
lemon, and finely-scraped horseradtsh.
If you like to send it to table in full dress,
surround it with nicely-fried smelts, gudg-
eons are often used for this purpose, and may
be bought very cheap when smelts are very
dear; lay the largest opposite the broadest
part of the turbot, so that they may form a
well-proportioned fringe for it; or oysters;
or cut a sole in strips, crossways, about the
size of a smelt; fry them and lay- them
round. Send up lobster sauce, two boats
of it, if it is for a large party.
06s.—The thickest part is the favorite;
and the carver of this fish must remember
to ask his friends if they are fin-fanciers.
It will save a troublesome job to the carver
if the cook, when the fish is boiled, cuts the
spine bone acrofs the middle.
TURBOT, TO BOIL. (2) Put into
the turbot kettle, with the water, two large
handfuls of salt, and a tea-cupful of vinegar;
when it boils very fast, take off the scum;
put in the turbot, and when it boils again
keep it boiling fast till the turbot rises from
the drainer; when it is sufficiently done,
dlsh and garnish it with a fringe of curled
parsley and cut lemon. Sauces;—lobster
and melted butter.
Cold boiled turbot eats well with salad
sauce.
Turbot is generally considered best per-
fectly fresh; but some people prefer it kept
for a few days, hung up by the tail in a
cool place.
TURBOT, GRILLED. Split the fisb
down the back, and soak it for sometime,
with melted butter, parsley, sweet herbs,
salt, and pepper. Bread the turbot well,
broil, and serve it with lemon, or Seville
orange-juice.
TURBOT, WITH WHITE SAUCE.
Put a sliced onion, some thyme, basil, and


TU R
VEAL
229
the stze of the yolk of an egg, poach them in
boiling water, and add them to the turtle.
Before serving, mix a little cayenue with
the juice of two or three lemons, and add it
to the soup. It is generally preferable to
prepare the soup the day before it is required
for use, and it will be best heated in a water
bath, or flat vessel containing water, which
is always kept very hot, but not allowed to
boil. By the same method, sauces, stews,
and other made dishes may be kept hot.
When the fins of the turtle are to be served
as a side dish, they must be first parboiled,
then skinued, and stewed in a little turtle
sauce, with some Port wine, and seasoned
with cayenue, salt, and a little lemon-juice,
and thickened with butter and flour.
Fricandeaux and Blanquettes may also be
made of the flesh of the turtle, in the same
way as those of veal.
TURTLE SOUP. (2) The day before
you dress a turtle, chop the herbs, and make
the forcemeat; then, on the preceding eve-
ning, suspend the turtle by the two hind fins
with a cord; and put one round the neck,
with a heavy weight attached to it to draw
out the neck, that the head may be cut oft'
with more ease; let the turtle hang a,t night,
in which time the blood will be well drained
from the body. Then, early in the morning,
having your stoves, and plenty of hot water
m readiness, take the turtle, lay it on the
table on its back, and with a strong pointed
knife cut all round the under shell, (which is
the callipee); there are joints at each end,
which must be carefully found, gently sepa-
rating it from the callipash (which is the
upper shell); be careful that in cutting out
, the gut you do not break the gall. When
the callipee and the callipash are perfectly
separated, take out that part of the gut that
leads from the throat; that, with the three
hearts, put into a basin of water by them-
solves; the other interior part put away,
'tttke the callipee, and cut off the meat
which adheres to it in four quarters, laying
it on a clean dish. Take twenty pounds of
veal, chop it up, and set it in a large pot, as
directed for espagnole, putting In the flesh
of the turtle at the same time, with all kinds
of turtle herbs, carrots, onions, one pound and
a half of lean ham, |iepper corns, salt, a little
spice, and two bay leaves, leaving it to stew
till it takes the color of e&pagnofe; put the
fins (the skin being scalded off) and hearts in,
half an hour before you fill it, with half wa-
ter, and half beef stock; then carefully skim
it; put in a bunch of parsley, and let it boiI
gently, like consomme. While the turtle is
stewing, carefully scald the head, the calli-
pee, and all that is soft of the callipash, at-
tentively observing to take oft' the smallest
particle of skin that may remain; put them
with the gut into a large pot of water to botl
till tender; when so, take them out, and cut
them in squares, putting them in a basin by
themselves till wanted lor the soup. The
next thing is the thickening of the soup,
which must lie prepared in the same manuer
as sauce tournee. The turtle being well
done, take out the fins and hearts, and lay diem
on a dish; the whole of the liquor must pass
through-a sieve into a large pan; then, with
a ladle, take off all the fat, put it into a ba-
sin, then mix in the turtle liquor (a small
quantity at a time) with the thtckening made
the same as sauce tournee; but it does not
require to, neither must it be, one twentieth
part so thick; set it over a brisk fire, and
continue stirring till it boils; when it has
boiled two hours, being skimmed all the
while, squeeze it through the tammy into
another large stewpan. put it on the fire, and
stir it as before, till it boils; when it has
boiled gently for one hour, put in the calli-
pee and callipash, with the gut, hearts, and
some of the best of the meat and head, all
cut in squares, with the forcemeat balls and
herbs, which you should have ready chopped
and stewed in espagnole; (the herbs are
parsley, lemon thyme, marjoram, basil, sa-
vory, and a few chopped mushrooms). It
must be carefully attended to and skimmed,
and one hour and a half before dinuer, put in
a bottle of Madeira wine, and nearly half a
bottle of brandy, keeping it continually boil-
ing gently, and skimming it; then take a
basin, put a little cayenue pepper into it,
with the juice of six lemons squeezed through
a sieve. When the dinuer is wanted, skim
the turtle, stir it well up, and put in a little
salt, if necessary; then stir in Me cayenue
and lemon-juice, and ladle it into the tureen.
This receipt will answer for a turtle between
fifty and sixty pounds.
IC?1 For Mock Turtle and other
Soups, See Soups.
TWELFTH CAKE ICING. See
Icing.
V.
VEAL. The names of the joints are as
follows: Loin, best end—Loin, chump etui
—Fillet—Hind Knuckle—Fore knuckle—
Neck, best end—Neck, scrag end—-Blade
bone—Breast, best end—Brisket end.
Veal should be fine in the grain, firm,
white, and fat, and the leg bone small. The
finest calves have the smallest kidney, atH its
being well covered with thick white fat, in-
dicates good veal. The fillet of a cow calf
is to be preferred, on account of the udder.
The prime joints are the fillet, the loin, th«


VEAL
VEAL
231
it on in boiling water; let it boil gently for
three hours. Boil the bones with an onion,
a bunch of sweet herbs, salt, and pepper;
strain and thicken it with three table-spoon-
fuls of cream, the yolks of two eggs beaten
up, and a bit of butter mixed with flour.
Parboil and slice the sweetbread, dip it
into an egg,and strew over it grated bread;
fry it with forcemeat ba 1 Is. Serve the
veal with the sauce poured over it. Gar-
nish with the sweetbread and forcemeat
balls.
VEAL BREAST, STEWED. (1) Half
roast the veal till of a light brown, then
stew it over a stove for two hours, in a
rich gravy, with a shallot, three cloves, a
blade of mace, a little walnut pickle, some
oyster liquor, and a few small mushrooms.
Half an hour before serving, add a little
anchovy liquor. Garnish with cut lemon
and curled parsley.
VEAL BREAST, STEWED. (2) Cut
out the blade bone, and stuff the whole with
a nice forcemeat; sew it up, half roast it,
and make a quart of gravy of the bones and
trimmings; season it with whole popper,
two blades of mace, a bit of lemon-peel, a
large onion, some salt, and a bunch of pars-
. Strain and thicken it with butter roll-
in flour; put in the veal, and a table-
spoonful of vinegar; let it stew nearly two
hours. A little before serving, add a table-
epoonful of lemon pickle, and a glass of
white wine. Forcemeat balls may be serv-
ed with it.
VEAL BREAST, STEWED. (3) Cut
off the short bones or gristles of a breast
of veal; stew them in a little white stock,
with a slice of ham, an onion stuck with
one or two cloves, some whole pepper, a
bunch of parsley, and a little salt. When
tender, take out the meat, strain the stock,
and put it on with a pint and a half of
green peas; boil them, and add the veal,
and let them stew for twenty minutes.
Serve the gristles in the middle, and the
peas round them.
VEAL BROTH. See Broth.
VEAL, BROWN ROLLKLOPS. Cut
off some thin slices from a fillet of veal, and
beat them. Take part of the fat from the
loin and kidney: mince it finely with a
small bit of vealHand six anchovies; season
with salt, pounded ginger, and mace; put
ft over the slices of veal, and roll them up.
D,p them into the hcaten yolk of an egg,
and then into grated bread; repeat this a
■econd time, and fry them of a nice brown
color in clarified beef dripping, then stew
them in some good gravy, adding a little
walnut pickle and half a pint of white wine.
VEAL CAKE. Take some nice thin
slices of veal, and season them with salt,
pepper, and nutmeg, grated; have ready
some hard-boiled eggs, sliced, and put a
layer of these at the bottom of a basin
or pan, then a layer of veal, then some slices
of ham, over this strew marjoram, thyme,
parsley, shred fine, bread crumbs and lemon-
peel, chopped small; then a layer of eggs,
veal, ham, &c. and so continue till the pan
is filled; pour some good gravy over the
whole, cover the pan with coarse brown
paper, tie it closely over, and set it to b;\ki;
in a slow oven; an hour will be sufficient
to bake it; when cold, turn it out upon a
dish, and serve; garnish with parsley.
VEAL CAKE, to be eaten cold. Pound
in a mortar as much cold roasted lean veal
as will fill a small mould, together with a
slice of ham, or bacon, a piece of the crumb
of bread soaked in cold milk, two beaten
eggs, a small bit of butter, the same of shal-
lot, or onion; season with pepper and salt,
and mix all well together; butter the mould,
fill it, and bake it in an oven for about an
hour; turn it out when cold, and cut it into
slices. Garnish with pickled eggs and pars-
ley.
VEAL COLD. Cut some cold veal into
thin slices, the size and thickness of a half
crown, dip them into the yolk of an egg
well beaten, cover them with bread crumbs,
sweet herbs, lemon-peel shred fine, and
grated nutmeg. Put a little fresh butter in-
to a pan, make it quite hot, fiy the veal in
it, and when done, lay it on a dish by the
side of the fire; make a little gravy of a
bone of veal, shake a little flour into the
pan, stir it round, add the gravy and a little
lemon-juice, pour it over the veal, and gar-
nish with lemon.
VEAL CHOPS, BREADED. Take
six or seven handsomely cut chops, season
them well with salt and pepper, and put them
into melted butter; when sufficiently soaked,
put them into beaten eggs, take them out,
and roll each separately in bread crumbs;
make the chops as round as you can with
your hand, and lay them on a dish; when
all are breaded, broil them slowly over a
moderate fire, that the bread may not be too
highly colored. Serve with clear gravy.
VEAL, TO COLLAR. Bone a breast
of veal, and beat it flat; cover the inside
with a nice stuffing moistened with eggs;
roll it very tightly, bind it, and bake it in an
oven with some weak stock in the dish.


VEAL
232 VEAL
Make a rich gravy; strain and thicken it,
and pour it over the veal. Serve with or
without forcemeat balls, and garnish with
cut lemon. It will keep for a long time in
a pickle made with bran and water, a little
salt, and vinegar, poured cold over it.
VEAL CONES. Mince small one pound
and a half of cold veal, two ounces of butter,
and a slice of lean ham; pound them in a
mortar, and mix, in five table-spooninls of
cream, two tea-spoonfuls of pepper, one of
salt, and some grated lemon-peel. Make it
up into cones about three inches high; rub
them over with an egg beaten up, sift grated
bread over them, and fry them of a light
brown color; put fried bread crumbs into
the dish, and place the cones upon them, or
serve them with a brown gravy instead of
crumbs. Cold fowl, turkey, or rabbit make
good cones. Half the ingredients will be
sufficient for a corner dish.
VEAL, COLD DRESSED. Mince
finely the fat and lean of cold roast veal,
season it with grated nutmeg, lemon-peel,
pepper, and salt; moisten it with a little
rich white stock, and a beaten egg; butter
a pudding, shape, put in the mince, and
press it firmlv, cover it closely, and set it
mto a pan of boiling water; let it boil an
hour or two. Serve it with a white gravy
thickened, or when turned out of the shape,
rub it over the top with the beaten yolk of
an egg; sift bread crumbs thickly over, and
brown it in a Dutch oven; baste it with a
little melted butter. Garnish with fried
parsley or cut lemon.
VEAL CUTLETS. (1) Let your cutlets
be about half an inch thick; trim them, and
flatten them with a cleaver; you may fry
them in fresh butter, or good drippings; when
brown on one side, turn them and do the
other; if the fire is very fierce, they must
change sides oftener. The time they will
take depends on the thickness of the cutlet
and the heat of the fire; half an inch thick
will take about fifteen minutes. Make some
gravy, by putting the trimmings into a stew-
pan with a little soft water, an onion, a roll
of lemon-peel, a blade of mace, a sprig of
thyme and parsley, and a bay leaf; stew
over a slow fire an hour, then strain it; put
an ounce of butter into a stew pan; as soon
as it is melted, mix with it as much flour as
will dry it up, stir it over the fire for a few
minutes, then add the gravy by degrees till
it is all mixed, boil tt for five minutes,
and strain it through a tamis sieve, and put
it to the cutlets; you may add some brown-
ing, mushroom, or walnut ketchup, or lemon
pickle, &c.: Or, Cut the veal into pieces
about as big as a crown-piece, beat them
with a cleaver, dip them in eggs beat up
with a little salt, and then in fine hread
crumbs; fry them a light brown in boiling
lard; serve under them some good gravy or
mushroom sauce, which may be made in five
minutes. Garnish with slices of ham or
rashers of bacon, or pork sausages.
Veal forcemeat or stuffmg, pork sausages,
rashers of bacon, are very relishing- accom-
paniments, fried and sent up in the form of
balls or cakes, and laid round as a garnish
VEAL CUTLETS. (2) Cut a neck of
veal into cutlets, or take them off a leg.
Season two well-beaten eggs with pounded
mace, nutmeg, salt, pepper, and finely-chop-
ped sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, and pars-
ley; dip the cutlets into it, sift' over them
grated bread, and fry them in clarified butter.
Serve with a white sauce, forcemeat balls,
and small mushroom?. Garnish with fried
parsley.
VEAL CUTLETS. (3) Cut a neck
of veal into thin cutlets, and beat them;
brown some butter with an onion and some
parsley chopped small. Dip the cutlets into
the butter, and then into finely grated bread,
seasoned with pepper and salt; broil them
of a brown color; mince the peel of half an
orange pared very thin; add it and a grate
of ginger to some good thickened gravy, and
pour it hot upon the cutlets.
VEAL CUTLETS. (4) Cut them off
a leg, or from the thick part of a loin of
veal; beat them a little with a rolling-pin,
and fry them in butter of a light brown.
Take them out of the pan, pour off the but-
ter, and strew over them grated bread, sea-
soned with minced parsley and lemon thyme,
grated lemon-peel and nutmeg, pepper, and
salt. Put them into a stewpan, with a piece
of fresh butter, and let them fry slowly till of
a good brown. Add a quarter of a pint of
good gravy, and a small tea-cupful of thick
cream; let it be made very hot, frequently
shaking the pan. Serve it garnished with
cut lemon or forcemeat balls, mushrooms,
and false eggs. False eggs are made of the
yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, which are
rubbed smooth, and then made up with fresh
butter into the form of small eggs.
VEAL CUTLETS, VENITIAN. Cut
into neat cutlets the best part of a neck of
veal; trim and flatten them. Chop sepa-
rately half a pint of mushrooms, a few shal-
lots, and a little parslev; stew these over a
slow fire, with a small bit of butter and a
little rasped fat bacon. When done, put in
the cutlets, and season them well with pepper
and salt, and let them stew over a slow fire
till quite tender; skim off the fat, and add


VEAL
VEAL
233
a spoonful of sauce tournee, and the yolks
of three eggs beaten with a little cream, then
mix in the juice -of a lemon, and a little cay-
enue.
VEAL, FILLET, STEWED. Bone,
lard, and stuff a fillet of veal; half roast, and
then stew it with two quarts of white stock,
a tea-spoonful of lemon pickle and one of
mushroom ketchup. Before serving, strain
the gravy, thicken it with butter rolled in
flour, add a little cayenue, salt, and some
pickled mushrooms; heat it, and pour it over
the veal. Have ready two or three dozen of
forcemeat balls to put round it and upon the
top. Garnish with cut lemdh.
VEAL, FLORENTINE. Take two
veal kidneys, and mince them with their
fat, very small, and rofrt it with a few cur-
rants, the yolks of four or five eggs, boiled
hard, and chopped small, a pippin cut fine,
some breadcrumbs, candied lemon-peel, cut
small, and season with nutmeg, cloves, salt,
mace, a little mountain wine, and some
orange-flower water; line the bottom of a
dish with a nice puff paste, put in the above,
cover it with puff paste, and set it to bake
in a slow oven.
VEAL FORCEMEAT. Of undressed
lean veal (after you have scraped it quite
fine, and free from skin and sinews), two
ounces-, the same quantity of beef or veal
suet, and the same of bread crumbs; chop
fine two drachms of parsley, one of lemon-
peel, one of sweet herbs, one of onion, and
half a drachm of mace, or allspice, beaten to
fine powder; pound all together in a mortar;
break into it the yolk and white of an egg;
rub it all up well together, and season it with
a little pepper and salt. This may be made
more savory by the addition of cold boiled
pickled tongue, anchovy, eschalot, cayenue
or curry powder, &c.
VEAL,FRICANDEAU. (l)Cutapiece
of veal from the leg, the same in width and
depth, and about eight inches in length.
Make a hole in the under part, and fill it
with forcemeat; sew it up, lard the top and
sides, cover it with slices of fat bacon, and
then with white paper. Put into a sauce-
pan some slices of undressed mutton, three
onions and one carrot sliced, a bunch of
sweet herbs, and a quart of good stock; put
in the veal, cover the pan closely, and let it
etew for three hours. Take out the veal,
strain the gravy, and take off all the fat;
add a table-spoonful of lemon pickle, and
three of white wine; Itoi 1 it quick to a glaze;
keep the fricandeau over hot water and cov-
ered, then glaze it, and serve with the rest
of the glaze poured round it, and sorrel sauce,
in a sauce tureen.
VEAL, FRICANDEAU. (2) Cut some
slices of veal, lard them all through, and put
them into a saucepan with some white stock,
and a bit of ham, one onion, a little mace
and pepper. Stew them gently an hour and
a half; take them out, strain the gravy, and
take oft'all the fat; boil it up quickly, lay in
the fricandeau, and stew them till the liquor
becomes like a brown jelly; take care they
do not burn. Scald in boiling water three
handfuls of sorrel, chop it, take out the meat,
and make the sorrel hot in the sauce, and
serve the fricandeau upon it.
VEAL, FRICANDEAU. (3) Chop very
finely one pound of the lean of a loin of veal,
and half a pound of the kidney fat; season
it with pepper, salt, grated lemon-peel, the
juice of one lemon, and a finely-shred an-
chovy. Soak, in boiling milk, two rusks,
or btscuits, and mix it all well together;
make it into balls, with a little flour. Fry
them of a light brown, in butter, then stew
them in tome highly-seasoned gravy, dish
them carefully, and strain the gravy over
them. Garnish with cut lemon.
VEAL, FRICANDEAU. (4) Take the
round or part of the round of a fillet, fry it
in butter, of a nice brown, with onions cut
in slices, and a little garlic, then set it to
stew in some very rich gravy or cullis: when
tender, take it out, thicken the gravy wtth
flour, add a little lemon-juice, and serve
this sauce over the veal.
VEAL FRITTERS. Cut the remains
of a tender piece of veal' into small, thin,
round pieces; dip these into a good batter,
and fry them in the usual way, in oil. When
done, drain, sprinkle salt over, and serve
them.
VEAL, HASHED OR MINCED. To
make a hash cut the meat into slices;—to
prepare minced veal, mince it as fine as
possible (do not chop it); put it into a stew-
pan wtth a few spoonfuls of veal or mutton
broth, or make some with the bones and
trimmings, as ordered for veal cutlets, a little
lemon-peel minced fine, a spoonful of milk or
cream; thicken with butter and flour, and
season it with salt, a table-spoonful of lemon
pickle, or Basil wine, or a pinch of curry
powder.
If you have no cream, beat up the yolks
of a couple of eggs with a little mtlk: line
the dish with sippets of lightly toasted bread.
Minced veal makes a very pretty dish put
into scollop shells, and bread crumbed over,


VEAL
234' TEAL
»nd sprmkled with a little butter, and brown-
ed in r Ituleh oven, or a cheese-toaster.
VEAL, KEBOBBED. Cut into thin
bits tlte si/.e of a cniwn-piecc some lean veal;
season thi m with tumeric, lkipper, and salt.
Slice onions very thinly, and some garlic:
put the slices of veal and onion upon a skewer,
together with thin bits of pickled pork. Frv
tItem brown with butter, and garnish with
plenty of fried parsley.
VEAL, KNUCKLE, RAGOUT. Cut
a knuckle of veal into slices about half an
inch thick; pepper, salt, and flour them;
fry them a light brown; put the trimmings
into a stewpan, with the bone broke in sev-
eral places; an onion sliced, a head of cele-
ry, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two blades
of bruised mace: pour in warm water enough
to cover them alwut an inch; cover the pot
close, and let it stew very gently for a couple
of hours; strain it, and then thicken it with
flour and butter; put in a spoonful of ketch-
up, a glass of wine, and juice of half a lemon;
gtvo tt a boil up, and strain into a clean
stewpan; put in the meat, make it hot,
and serve up.
Obs.—If celery is not to lie had, use a
carrot instead or flavor it with celery seed.
VEAL KNUCKLE, STEWED WITH
RICE. As boiled knuckle of veal cold is
not a very favorite relish with the generality,
cut off some steaks from it, which you may
dress as in the foregoing receipt, and leave
the knuckle no larger than will be eaten the
day it is dressed. Break the shank bone,
wash it clean, and put it in a large stewpan
with two quarts of water, an onion, two
blades of mace, and a tea-spoonful of salt:
set it on a quick fire; when it boils, take
off all the scum. Wash,and pick a quarter
of a pound of rice; put it into the stewpan
with the meat, and let it stew very gently
for about two hours: put the meat, &c. in a
deep dish, and the rice round it. Send up
bacon with it, parsnips, or greens, and finely
minced parsley and butter.
VEAL, KNUCKLE, SOUP. A knuckle
of veal of six pounds, weight, will make a
large tureen of excellent soup, and is thus
easily prepared: cut half a pound of bacon
into slices about half an inch thick, lay it at
the bottom of a soup-kettle, or deep stewpan,
and on this place the knuckle of veal, having
first chopped the bone in two or three places;
furnish it with two carrots, two turnips, a
head of celery, two large onions, with two
or three cloves stuck in one of them, a dozen
corns of black, and the same of Jamaica
pepper, and a good bundle of lemon thyme,
wlnter savory, and parsley. Just cover the
meat with cold water, and set it over a quick
fire till it boils; having skimmed it well,
remove your soup-kettle to the side of the
fire; let h stew very gently till it is quite
tender, t. e. about four hours; then take out
lhe bacon and veal, strain the soup, and set
it by in a cool place till you want it, when
you must take off the fat from the surface of
your liquor, and decant it (keeping back the
settlings at the bottom) into a clean pan.
If you like a thickened soup, put three ta-
ble-spoonfuls of the fat vou have taken off the
soup into a small stewpan, and mix it with
four table-spoonfuls of flour, pour a ladleful
of soup to it, and mix it with the rest by de-
grees, and boil it up till it is smooth.
Cut the meat and gristle of the knuckle
and the bacon into mouthfuls, and put them
into the soup, and let them get warm.
You may make this more savory by ad-
ding ketchup, &c. Shin of beef may be
dressed in the same way; see Knuckle of
Veal stewed with Rice.
VEAL LEG IN SURPRISE. Lard
the veal with slips of bacon, and a little
lemon-peel cut very thin; make stuffing the
same as for a fillet of veal, only mix wtth it
half a pint of oysters chopped small, and
stuff your veal wtth this, and put it to stew
with just sufficient water to cover it; let it
stew very gently till quite tender; then take
it up; skim off the fat from the liquor
and add some lemon-juice, some mushroom
ketchup, the crumb of a roll grated fine, half
a pint of oysters, a pint of cream, and a bit
of butter rolled in flour; let this sauce thick
en over the fire, and serve it over the veal;
garnish the dish with oysters, dipped in
butter, and fried, and thin slices of toasted
bacon.
VEAL, MINCED. Cut thin slices of
lean cold veal; mince them very finely with
a knife, and season with pepper, salt, grated
lemon-peel and nutmeg; put it into a sauce-
pan, with a little whtte stock or water, a
table-spoonful of lemon pickle, and a little
mushroom powder. Simmer, but do not let
it boil; add a bit of butter rolled in flour,
and a little milk or cream; put all round
the dish thin sippets of bread cut into a
three-cornered shape; or cover the mince
thickly wtth grated bread, seasoned with
pepper, salt, and a little butter, and brown
it with a salamander; or serve with poached
eggs laid upon the top.
VEAL OLIVES. Cut thin slices off a
fillet, and flatten them with a roller; season
thent highly with pepper, mace, salt, and
grated lemon-peel; put a bit of fat into each
roll, and tie them with a thread. Fry them
of a light brown, and stew them in some


VEAL
VEAL
235
white stock with two dozen of fried oysters,
h glass of white wine, a table-spoonful of
lemon pickle and some small mushrooms.
Stew them nearly an hour; take off the
threads before serving.
. Beef olives may be dressed in the same
way.
VEAL PATTIES. Mince some under-
done veal with a little parsley, one or two
sage leaves, a very little onion; season with
grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, liepper, and salt;
add some grated lean ham or tongue, moisten
it with some good gravy, heat it up, and put
tt into the patties.
VEAL AND HAM PATTIES. Chop
about six ounces of ready-dressed lean veal,
and three ounces of ham very small; put it
into a stewpan with an ounce of butter roll-
ed into flour, half a gill of cream; half a
gill of veal stock; a little grated nutmeg and
lemon-peel, some cayenue pepper and salt, a
spoonful of essence of ham and lemon-juice,
and stir it over the fire sometime, taking
care it does not burn.
VEAL AND HAM PIE. Take two
pounds of veal cutlets, cut them in middling-
sized pieces, season with pepper and a very
little salt; likewise one of raw or dressed
ham cut in slices, lay it alternately in the
dish, and put some forced or sausage meat
at the top, with some stewed button mush-
rooms, and £he yolks of three eggs. boiled
hard, and a gill of water; then proceed as
with rump-steak pie.
N. B.—The best end of a neck is the fine
part for a pie, cut into chops, and the chine
bone taken away.
VEAL PIE. (1) Cut a neck of veal into
neat steaks, season them well with white
pepper, salt, mace, and grated nutmeg mix-
ed; pack them closely into a dish, and put
in half a pint of white stock; five hard-boil-
ed yolks of eggs may lie added; put puff
paste on the edge of the dish, and cover with
the same. Lambs' tails may be made into a
pie, with lamb chops seasoned in the same
manuer as the above.
VEAL PIE. (2) Cut into steaks a
loin or breast of veal, season them highly
with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, mace, and
a little lemon-peel mixed; lay them into
the bottom of a dish, and then a few slices
of sweetbreads seasoned with the spices;
odd some oysters, forcemeat baits, and hard-
boiled yolks of eggs, half a pint of white
stock, a glass of white wine, and a table-
upoonful of lemon pickle; put puff paste on
the edge of the dish, and cover with the
some; bako it for one hour.
VEAL PIE. (3) Chop, but not very
small, the meat of a cold loin of veal, season
it wtth minced parsley, pepper, sah, grated
lemon-peel, and nutmeg; add rather more
than half a pint of stock made with the
bones, thickened with a bit of butter rolled
in flour, and seasoned with a tea-spoonful
of lemon pickle, and a table-spoonful of
wlnte wine; make a paste of the fat of the
loin, and an equal quantity of flour, rub it
together, and mix with it a little cold water,
roll it out two or three times, line the sides
of the dish, put in the meat, and cover it.
VEAL PIE, SOLID. Stew in veal
stock, till it be perfectly tender and like a
jelly, a piece of a knuckle of veal, with the
gristles adhering to it; lei it cool, and then
pull the meat and gristles into small bits;
butter a pie dish or shape, and lay at regular
distances some hard-boiled yolks of eggs,
and some of the white part cut into rings
or strips; then put over some bits of the
meat and gristle, and strew over it some
pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg mixed, and
a little of the gravy, and then more eggs,
with small bits of beet root, green pickles,
and the red part of a carrot cut to fancy;
add more meat seasoning, and all the gravy;
when the shape is full, pot it into an oven
for twenty minutes, and when quite cold
turn it out. If rightly done, it will have a
glazed appearance, and the variety of col-
ors look well by candle light.
VEAL, POTTED. Cut slices off a leg
of veal, and season them with pepper, pound-
ed mace, cloves, and salt. Lay thin slices
of fresh butter between each layer of meat
into a potting pan or jar; cover it closely,
and bake it with bread. When it is cold,
pound the meat in a marble mortar, pack it
closely into a jar, and pour clarified butter
over tt.
VEAL, COLD, AN EXCELLENT
RAGOUT. Either a nock, loin, or fillet of
veal, will furnish this excellent ragout with
a very little expense or trouble.
Cut the veal into handsome cutlets; put
a piece of butter or clean dripping into a
frying-pan; as soon as it is hot, flour and
fry the veal of a light brown: take it out,
and if you have no gravy ready, make some
as directed under sauces, or put a plat of
boiling water into the frying-pan, giver it a
boil up for a minute, and strain it into a
basin while you make some thickening in
the following manuer: put about an ounce
of butter into a stewpan; as soon as it melts,
mix with it as much flour as will dry it up;
stir it over the fire for a few minutes, and
gradually add to it the gravy you made in
the frying-pan; let them sunmer together


VEAL
VEG
236
for ten minutes (till thoroughly incorporat-
ed); mtoon it with pepper, ralt, a little
macet and a w ine-gUs.-ful of mushroom
ketchup or wine; strain it through a tamis
/ii the meat, and stew very gently till the
meat is thoroughly warmed. If yon have
uny ready-lwiIei bacon, cut it in slice?, and
| ut it in to warm with the meat.
VEAL ROLL. Bone a small breast of
ve,l, and spread over it a rich and bighlv-
wnsoned forcemeat. Cut four hard-boiled
eggs the long way into four pieces, and lay
them in rows, with green pickles between
each row. Roll 'up the veal tightly, and
:ew it; dien put it into a cloth, and bind it
with tape. Lay a slice of ham over it, and
put it into a saucepan, together with some
strong stock, and a little whole pep|ier, and
stew it for three hoars. Make a rich gra-
vy, and boil it up with a little white wine
and lemon-juice or lemon-pickle; po.tr it
over the veal; add some egg and forcemeat
balls, and garnish with cut green pickles.
Thi dish is very good when cold.
VEAL SAUSAGES. Take equal quan-
tities of lean veal and fat bacon, a handful
of sage, and a few anchovies. Beat all in
a mortar, and season well with pepper and
salt; when wanted for use, roll and fry it,
and serve either with fried sippets, or on
stewed vegetables, or white collops.
VEAL SEMELLES, Cut part of a
fillet of veal into slices an inch thtck, season
them with salt and pepper, and giiv them a
few turns in a little butter, with a bay leaf.
Lay at the bottom of a deep saucepan a very
thin slice of bacon, and on it one of the
slices of veal, and continue to lay them m
alternately, until the whole are used, then
add a glass of water and some bay leaves;
close the saucepan very tight, first putting
a sheet of paper over the meat; stew it on
hot ashes for four or five hours; take care
to keep the fire up to the same point all the
time
VEAL STOCK. Cut a leg of veal and
some lean ham into pieces, put them into
a saucepan, with a quart of water, some
carrots, turnips, onions, leeks, and celery;
stew them down till nearly done, but do not
leflAt color; then add a sufficient quantity
ofbeef stock to cover die ingredients, and
let it boil for an hour; skim off all the fat,
and strain it; a little game stewed down
with the above will greatly improve the fla-
vor; be particularly careful that it does not
burn.
VEAL SWEETBREADS ROASTED.
Trim off the tough part, and blanch for three
minutes in a stewpan of water, with a little
salt, three heart sweetbreads, then take them
out, and put them into a basin of cold water
till cool; have an egg heat up in a dish, some
bread crumbs, and clarified butter, run a
skewer through the sweetbreads, and fasten
them on the spit; egg them all over, shake
some bread crumbs over, then sprinkle clari-
fied butter over, and then bread crumbs
again; put them down to roast again for a
quarter of an hour, then take them off the
skewer, and serve them on a dish over a little
butter sauce, mixed with a spoonful of gravy,
a small bit of glaze, and a squeeze of lemon-
juice; let it be hot, but not boiling, and
thotoughly well mixed before it is served
under the sweetbreads.
VEGETABLES. There is nothing in
which the difference between an elegant and
an ordinary table is more seen than in the
dressing of vegetables, more especially greens.
They may be equally as fine at first, at one
place as at another; but their look and
taste are afterward very different, entirely
from the careless way in which they have
been cooked.
They are in greatest perfection when in
greatest plenty, i. e. when in full season.
By season, I do not mean those early days,
that luxury in the buyers, and avarice in the
sellers, force the vegetables; but that time
of the year in which by nature and common
culture, and the mere operation of the sun
and climate, they are in most plenty and
perfection.
As to the quality of vegetables, the middle
size are preferred to the largest or the small-
est; they are more tender, juicy, and full
of flavor, just before they are quite full-grown.
Freshness is their chief value and excellence,
and I should as soon think of roasting an
animal alive, as of boiling a vegetable after
it is dead.
The eye easily discovers if they have been
kept too long; they soon lose their beauty in
all respects.
Roots, greens, salads, &c. and the various
productions of the garden, when first gather-
ed, are plump and firm, and have a fragrant
freshness no art can give them again, when
they have lost it by long keeping; though it
will refresh them a little to put them into
cold spring water for sometime before they
are dressed.
To boil them in soft water will preserve
the color best of such as are green; if you
have only hard water, put to it a tea-spoon-
ful of carbonate of potash.
Take care to wash and cleanse tbem
thoroughly from dust, dirt, and insects: this
requires great attention. Pick off all the
outside leaves, trim them nicely, and, if not
quite fresh gathered and have become flaccid,


V E G
VEG
237
it is absolutely necessary to restore their
crispnees before cooking them, or they will
be tough and unpleasant: lay them in a pan
of clean water, with a handful of salt in it,
for an hour before you dress them.
They should always be boiled in a sauce-
pan by themselves, and have plenty of water;
if meal is boiled with them in the same pot,
they will spoil the look and taste of each other.
If you wish to have vegetables delicately
clean, put on your pot, make it boil, put a
little salt in it, and skim it perfectly clean
before you put in the greens, &c.; which
should not be put in till the water boils brisk-
ly: the quicker they boil, the greener they
will be. When the vegetables sink, they are
generally done enough, if the water has been
kept constantly boiling. Take them up im-
mediately, or they will lose their color and
goodness. Drain the water from them
thoroughly before you send them to table.
This branch of cookery requires the most
vigilant attention.
If vegetables are a minute or two too long
over the fire, they lose all their beauty and
flavor.
If not thoroughly boiled tender, they are
tremendously indigestible, and much more
troublesome during their residence in the
stomach, than under-done meats.
Once for all, take care your vegetables
are fresh: for as the ftshmonger often suffers
for the sins of the cook, so the cook often
gets undeservedly blamed instead of the
green-grocer.
Strong-scented vegetables should be kept
apart; leeks, or celery, laid among cauli-
flowers, &c. will quickly spoil them.
Succulent vegetables are best preserved in
a cool, shady, and damp place.
Potatoes, turnips, carrots, and similar
roots, intended to be stored up, should never
be cleaned from the earth adhering to them,
till they are to be dressed.
They must he protected from the action
of the air and frost, by laying them in heaps,
burying them in sand or earth, &c., or cov-
ering them with straw or mats.
When vegetables are quite fresh gathered,
they will not require so much boiling, by at
least a third of the time, as when they have
been gathered the usual time of those that
are brought to public markets.
Vegetables are always best when newly
gathered, and should be brought in from the
garden early in the morning; they will then
have a fragrant freshness, which they lose by
keeping.
They must be cleaned with the greatest
care, the outside leaves of every description
of greens removed, and they, and all other
vegetables, more particularly when not re-
cently gathered, should be laid for several
Hours in cold water, and well shaken to
throw out the insects. A tea-spoonful of
salt should always be put into the water in
whtch they are to be boiled, and if it is hard,
a tea-spoonful of salt of tartar, or potash,
may be added to preserve the green color of
the vegetables.
All vegetables should he boiled quickly,
and, with the exception of spinach, in an
open vessel, skimming them carefully.
Kitchen greens should be kept in a cool
and shady place. Potatoes, carrots, turnips,
and beet root should be stored up, without
being cleaned from the earth adhering to
them, in layers of sand, or laid in heaps, and
covered with earth and straw. Parsnips and
skirrets not being injured by frost, are gen-
erally left in the ground, and taken up as
wanted. Onions are stored in a warm, dry
place, never in a cellar; they are sometimes
strung in bunches, and suspended from the
roof, and, more effectually to prevent their
growmg, some people select the finest bulbs,
and singe the roots with a hot iron.
Herbs of all sorts should be gathered when
in flower, and on a dry day, and being well
cleaned from dust and dirt, they are tied up
in small bunches, and dried before the fire in
a Dutch oven. They may then be kept in
paper bags labelled; or rubbed to a powder,
sifted, and put into bottles.
VEGETABLE ESSENCES. The ha-
vor of the various sweet and savory herbs
may be obtained by combining their essen-
tial oils with rectified spirit of wine, in the
proportion of one drachm of the former to
two ounces of the latter, or by picking the
leaves, and laying them for a couple of
hours in a warm place to dry, and then fill-
ing a large-mouthed bottle with them, and
pouring on them wine, brandy, proof spirit,
or vinegar, and letting them steep for four-
teen days.
VEGETABLE MARROW, Is fit for
use when about the size of a turkey's egg.
After being washed clean, it is put on m
boiling water, with a little salt, and when
tender, it is drained from the water, cut into
half, and served on toasted bread, over
which somc melted butter has been poured.
Or, after being boiled in milk and water,
they may be fricasseed as Jerusalem arti-
chokes, or stewed like cucumbers.
VEGETABLES STEW. Pick a-nd
wash very clean as much spinach as will
make a dish; mince finely three small on-
ions, pick and chop two handfuts of parsley;
put all into a saucepan, with rather more
than half a pint of gravy, a bit of butter
dusted with flour, a little salt and pepper.
Cover the pan closely, stir it now and then,
and when the spinach is tender, mash it


VER
v r n
239
and trimmings, and boil it till the pasty tt,
ready; then cover the pasty with paste, orna-
ment the top, and bake it for two hours in a
slow oven; and before it is sent to table,
pour in a sauce made with the gtavy the
venison was stewed in, strained and skimmed
free from fat; some pepper, salt, half a gill
of Port, the juice of half a lemon, and a little
flour and butter to thicken it.
VENISON PIE OR PASTY. All
kinds of meat intended for pies and pasties
must be highly spiced when served hot, and
still more highly spiced when served cold;
but the seasoning must be regulated by judg-
ment and taste. Take one or two breasts
of venison, (according to the size you wish
to make your pie or pasty), bone it thorough-
ly, beat it very flat, and lard it through and
through with lardons, well seasoned with all
sorts of spices, and sweet herbs finely chop-
ped; roll it up as tight as possible, and tie
it up with strong twine. Put into a stewpan
dte bones and trimmings of the venison, with
carrots, onions, parsley, one clove of garlic,
thyme, bay-leaf, pepper-corns, and allspice,
and let all stew till nearly dry; fill it up with
equal quantities of tieef or mutton braise, and
water, which let boil very gently till done,
then put in the roll of vemson; put paper on
the top, cover very close, and let it stew
gently with fire over and under. When
sufficiently done, take it off the fire, and let
it stand in the liquor until nearly cold: then
prepare a plain paste of four pounds of flour to
one pound of butter, the same as for raised
pie, but instead of making it stiff, mix it as
soft as possible; lay part of this paste as
thick as you well can round the edge of the
dish; cut off the twine from the venison,
skin, and lay it in the dish, and pour some
of the gravy it has stewed in; put on the
cover, trim it very neatly, make a hole in
the top, do it over with egg, and bake it in
a moderate oven for three or four hours;
reduce the remainder of the liquor it was
stewed in, and when the pie is baked, pour
tt in; serve it cold. The pasty can scarcely I
be made too thick.
VERMICELLI, QUEEN'S Blanch;
nlwut a quarter of a pound of vermicelli in 1
l,o'Jing water, drain it, and throw it into!
some rich well-seasoned stock; when tender,
take it out of the soup, and put it into the
tureen; thicken the soup with eight well-
beaten eggs, mixed with half a pint of cream,
and pour it, when quite hot, upon the ver-
micelli.
VERMICELLI IN MILK. Boil the
quantity of milk you may require, and put
into it "half a pound of vermicelli peeled, and
a sufficient quantity of sugar; stir it frequent-
ly that the vermicelli may not form a paste
half an hour will be long enough to boil it
A little almond milk may be added whe*
ready for table.
VERMICELLI PUDDING. (1) Boil
a quarter of a pound of vermicelli with a
little cinuamon, in a quart of mllk; in the
meantime mix a quarter of a pound of melt-
ed butter with a pint of cream, and the yolks
of four eggs; pour in the vermicelh when
quite soft; add a little flour and beef mar-
row, and powder sugar to the taste; beat all
up for half an hour, tie it in a floured cloth,
and boil it.
VERMICELLI PUDDING. (2) Boil
fonr ounces of vermicelli in a pint of new
milk, until quite tender, with a stlck or two
of cinuamon. Then add half a pint of thick
cream, a quarter of a pound of butter, a
quarter of a pound of sugar, and the yolks
of four eggs, thoroughly beaten; lay the
above in a dish and bake.
VERMICELLI SOUP. Take as much
good stock as you require for your tureen,
strain, and set it on the fire, and when it
boils, put in the vermicelli, and let it simmer
for half an hour by a slow fire, that the ver-
micelli may not burst; the soup ought not to
be very thick. Half a pound is sufficient
for eight or ten persons.
VINEGAR. Thisisan acid liquor,pre-
pared by a second fermentation from various
liquors, such as wine, cider, perry, beer,
mead, skimmed milk, &c. But the most
common method of making it, in England,
is from malt, and the process is as follows:—
infuse a quantity of malt in hot water for an
hour and a half, then pour it into a cooler.
As soon as the infusion is sufficiently cold,
put it into-deep tuns, add yeast to it, and
leave it to ferment for four or five days; after
which put the liquor into barrels, in a room
heated w ith stoves, so that a moderate warmth
may be kept up for six weeks, and the fer-
mentation continue regularly. By the end
of that time the whole will be completely
soured, and must now be changed into other
barrels; lay a tile on the bung-holes to keep
out the wet, but not so close as to prevent a
free circulation of air, and then place them
in the open air for four or five months, ac-
cording as the weather is warm or otherwise;
during the whole of this |ieriod, the fermenta-
tion proceeds, and at the end, the vinegar is
nearly done. The next operation is this: the
vinegar is poured into large vessels, called
rapetuns, to which there are false bottoms cov-
ered with rape, that is, the refuse of raisins.,
or other fruit, from which wine has been
made; fill one of these tuns entirely with


VIN
VIN
240
the vinegar, and another about tbree-fourtha
full, and every day take a portion of the
liquor out of tlte fullest barrel, and put it into
the other, until, the vinegar is in a fit state to
be drawn off; when it must be closely bar-
relled.
Vinegar may also lie made in much smaller
quantittes for domestic purpose?i; the mate-
rials of various kinds, with the addition of
sugar; raisins, currants, and ripe goose-
berries, however, are the principal; some-
times it is made from brown sugar, and wa-
ter alone. The proportions are the same as
those necessary for strong wine; make the
barrel about three-fourths full, add a toast
covered with yeast, put in the bung very
loosely, and place the barrel where it will
be exposed to the sun, or, if it be winter,
near the fire. The fermentation should be
moderate and constant till the vinegar is
complete; then draw it off clear, give it a
boil, and when quite cold, strain and bottle
it.
Vinegar is obtained from wine, by mixing
with the latter its own flowers, or lerment,
and its tartar reduced to powder, and put
into a vinegar or any other cask; if the
latter, it must be placed in a warm situation,
full of the steam from vinegar; in either case
the liquor should be stirred frequently; the
second fermentation will slieedily commence;
it will become heated, and turn acid by de-
grees, and in a short time the vinegar will
be produced.
It is commonly supposed that wine which
has become acid, will produce excellent vin-
egar; this, however, is a mistaken idea, for
the stronger and better the quality of the
wine, the stronger and better will be the
vinegar.
The French have several methods of mak-
ing vinegar, which ltre subjoined.
The vinegar makers of Orleans pour the
wine, of which they intend to make their
vmegar, into casks, at the bottoms of which
are close gratings of lime twigs; these serve
to clarify the wine, as the lees adhering to
the twigs, leave the liquor perfectly clear.
They then procure a number of casks, each
containing a hundred gallons, either new or
which have previously contained vinegar;
these are set upright, and in the top of every
one is bored a hole, two inches in diameter,
these are kept constantly open: the last men-
tioned casks are called Mothers; pour into
all of them twenty-five gallons of boiling
vinegar; to this, in a week's time, add
three gallons of wine, drawn from the first
mentioned casks; continue to add the wine,
at intervals of a week, until the Mothers
are quite full; then leave them for a fortnight,
and at the end of which period they generally
draw off the vinegar, taking care always to
leave the Mothers half full, at least, and
llien to fill them with wine as before. The
method of proving when the vinegar is fit for
use, is, by plunging a stave into it; if on
taking it out, a white line is perceptible on
the end of it, the vinegar is quite ready-
The place where the casks are kept should
he very airy, and in the winter time, by
means of stoves the temperature should be
raised to eighteen degrees of Reaumur.
Paris vinegar varies from the above, and
the process is vety simple. A large quantity
of wine lees is put into coarse sacks, and
laid in tubs, which are placed one upon an-
other to form a kind of press; by means of
a screw, every drop of wine is gradually
squeezed from the lees; this operation cannot
be performed in less time than a week. The
wine thus extracted is put into casks; in
the headings a hole is made, as above, which
holes are left constantly open; in summer
time the casks so filled arc placed in the sun,
and, generally speaking, the vinegar is fit
for use in a fortnight. In the winter, the
fermentation will last double the time, and
must be assisted by artificial warmth. It
sometimes happens that the liquor heats to
so great a degree that the hand canuot be
borne in it; in this case, the progress of
the fermentation must be checked by adding
more wine, until it proceeds more regularly.
When the vinegar is made, put it into casks,
which have the beech twigs at the bottom,
as above mentioned; let it remain a fort-
night, by which time it will be sufficiently
fermented to draw off into the casks for
keeping it.
Another very simple method is also prac-
ticed in France; a few quarts are drawn
from a barrel of excellent vmegar, and an
equal quantity of very clear white wine is
put into the barrel, close the bung lightly,
and keep it in a place where the heat is
moderate and regular. In a month's time
draw off the same quantity as above, and
pour in an equal portion of white wine. A
barrel of good vinegar will thus afford a
constant supply for a length of time without
leaving the slightest deposit.
A cask which has not contained vinegar
before, should have a quart of boiling hot
vinegar poured into it, shaken till cold, and
allowed to stand for some hours.
VINEGAR, BASIL. Sweet basil is in
full perfection about the middle of August.
Fill a wide-mouthed bottle with the fresh
green leaves of basil (these give much finer
and more flavor than the dried,) and cover
them with vinegar, or wine, and let them
steep for ten days: if yon wish a very strong
essence, strain the liquor, put it on some
fresh leaves, and let them steep fourteen days
more.
Obs.—This is a very agreeable addition


VOL
WAF
242
Jte liquor without pressing, and pass it
through a jelly-bag (previously wetted with
plain vinegar) into a stone jar, with a pound
of pounded lump sugar to each pint. When
the sugar is dissolved, stir it up, cover down
the jar, and set it in a saucepan of water,
and keep lxiiling for ;m hour, taking off the
scum; add to each pint a glass of brandy,
and IkHtle it: mixed in about eight parts of
water, it is a very refreshing and delightful
mt muter drink. An excellent cooling bever-
age to assuage thirst in ardent fevers, colds,
and inflammatory complaints, &c. and is
agreeable to most palates.
VINEGAR FOR SALADS. Take of
tarragon, savory, chives, eschalots, three
ounces each; a handful of the tops of mint
and balm, all dry and pounded; put into a
wide-mouthed I «,ttle, with a gallon of beet
vinegar; cork it close, set it in the sun, and
in a fortnight strain off, and squeeze the
herbs; let tt stand a day to settle, and then
strain it through a filtering bag.
VOL-AU-VENT. (1) Cut some cold
turkey or veal into small thin slices, season
it wtth dried lemon-peel grated, pepper,
pounded mace, and salt; add one anchovy,
some garlic and onion pounded, also a little
good gravy, a table-spoonful of lemon pickle,
one of white wine, and an ounce of butter
rolled in flour; then make it quite hot, but
do not allow it to boil, and serve it in the
prepared vol-an-vent. The gravy may be
made with the bones, or a little cream, and
the beaten yolk of an egg may be substituted
for the cream. \
VOL-AU-VENT. (2) In opening the
oysters, serrate them from the liquor, which
must be strained; take off the beards, and
add to them the liquor, together with some
white stock, a bit of butter rolled in flour,
two or three blades of mace, a bit of lemon-
peel, pepper, and salt; simmer them for fifteen
or twenty minutes, and a little before putting
them into the vol-an-vent, pick out the lemon-
peel, add a table-spoonful of white wine, and
tit.ee of good cream, and make it quite hot.
I' i make oyster patties, when they are to be
bearded, cut them into three or four bits,
and prepare them in the same manuer.
VOL-AU-VENT. (3) Roll off tart paste,
till about the eighth of an inch thick: then,
with a tin cutter made for that purpose
(about the size of the bottom of the dish you
intend sending to table,) cut out the shape,
and lay it on a baking-plate with paper;
rub it over with yolk of egg; roll out good
puff paste an inch thick, stamp it with the
same cutter, and lay it on the tart paste;
then take a cutter two sizes smaller und
! press it in the centre nearly through the puff
i paste; rub the top with yolk of egg, and
'bake it in a quick oven about twenty minutes,
of a light brown color: when done, takeout
1 the paste inside the centre mark, preserving
the top, put it on a dish in a warm place,
and when wanted, fill it with a white ft lea-
see of chicken, rabbit, ragout of sweetbread,
or any other entree you wish.
VOLDRON. Melt eleven ounces of fresh
! butter in a brass pan, and when quite hot,
, add the same quantity of pounded loaf sugar,
and eight well-beaten eggs; stir constantly
I for six or eight minutes, and put it into a
: dish; the following day, mix with it a wine
glass of orange-flower water; of citron,
orange, and lemon-lieel, cut fine, half a
pound; butter a pudding dish, and lay into
the bottom a sheet of white paper buttered,
then put in the voldron, and bake it for
twenty minutes; turn it out, ornament it
with cut citron and orange-peel, and serve
it in a silver or glass dish.
W.
WAFERS. Take a pintof good cream,
half a pound of stfted flour, half a pound of
powder sugar, and two drachms of orange-
flower water. Beat the cream with the
flour, a little at a time, until both are mixed
perfectly smooth and free from lumps, then
add the other articles; and as much more
cream as will make the paste nearly as thin
as milk; make the iron hot, dip a feather in
some melted butter, and rub the iron over
with it; put on the tron about a spoonful
and a half of the paste, press them a little
gently, and place the iron on a stove; opeu
the iron a little frequently, to see if it be
done; when one side is baked, turn the iron,
and do the other. The wafers should only
be lightly colored. Take them from the
mould carefully with a knife.
WAFERS, GERMAN. Take seven-
teen ounces of sifted flour, and half a pint of
good yeast, which make into a paste, with
as much warm milk as will make it run from
the spoon freely, without being too clear;
then put it into a warm place. When it has
risen well, add to it the yolks of fourteen
eggs well beaten, the whites whipped to a
snow, and the grated rind of two lemons.
The whole being well mixed, pour over it
seventeen ounces of fresh butter melted, but
not too hot; stir it gently wtth a wooden
spoon, and put the pieparation again into a
warm place to rise a second time; when it
has risen sufftciently, and your pan quite hot,
rub the latter with butter, fill it with the


WAL
WAL
243
e, set it over a brisk fire, and fry your
wafers; make both sides equally brown;
when done, sprinkle theni with powder sugar
(and cinnamon, if you like), and serve them
hot. Be careful in taking out the paste to
fill thi5 pan, not to disturb, nor to plunge the
spoon into the preparation, when not using
'it; the up|ier part of the paste should be
taken off very gently, and the spoon laid
arrets the top of the vessel; if these precau-
tions be not attended to, the good appear-
ance of the wafers will be destroyed.
WAFERS, ITALIAN. Take eight
eggs, fourteen ounces of powder sugar, a
pound of tlour, six ounces of cream, the same
of milk, an ounce of onmge flowers, and the
rind of a lemon grated. Beat the eggs with
the sugar and flour first; then add the cream,
milk, and other materials, by degrees; mix
them well, and take care there are not the
slightest lumps. Make the wafers as di-
rected.
WALNUTS. • Make a brine of salt and
water, in the proportion of a quarter of a
pound of salt to a quart of water; put the
walnuts into this to soak for a week; or if
you wish to soften them so that they may
be soon ready for eating, run a larding
pin through them in half a dozen places—
this will allow the pickle to penetrate, and
they will be much softer, and of better fla-
vor, and ready much sooner than if not per-
forated: put them into a stewpan with such
brine, and give them a gentle simmer; put
them on a sieve to drain; then lay them on
a fish plate, and let them stand in the air till
they turn black—this may take a couple of
days; put them into glass, or unglazed stone
jats; ftll these about three parts with the
walnuts, and fill them up with the following
pickle-
To each quart of the strongest vinegar put
two ounces of black peplier, one of ginger,
same of eschalots, same of salt, half an ounce
of allspice, and half a drachm of cayenue.
Put these into a stone jar; cover it with a
bladder, wetted with pickle, tie over that
some leather, and set tlie jar on a trivet by
the side of the fire for three days, shaking it
up three times a day, and then pour it while
hot to the walnuts, and cover them down with
bladder wetted with llte pickle, leather, &c.
WALNUTS AND BUTTERNUTS.
Gather them for pickling when the head of
a pin will pierce them easily; run a large
needle through them here and there, or score
dtem on one side with a knife; lay them
mto a brine of salt-and-water for twelve
days, changing the brine twice in that time;
strain, and put them into a jar, and sprinkle
a little salt over them. Boil four quarts of
vinegar for a hundred walnuts, allowing to
each quart one ounce of whole pepper, and
one of ginger, half an ounce each of sliced
nutmeg and whole allspice, a table-spoonful
of mustard seed, and one of scraped horse-
radish, one head of garlic, or a small onion;
pour it boiling hot over the nuts, and put a
plate on the jar; when cold, tie it closely
down. After tlte nuts are used, the liquor
may be boiled, strained, and bottled, to use
as a pickle.
WALNUT KETCHUP. (1) Thorough-
ly well bruise one hundred and twenty young
walnuts; put to them three quarters of a
pound of salt, and a quart of good wine vin-
egar; stir them every day for a fortnight;
then strain and squeeze the liquor from them
through a cloth, and set it aside; put to the
husks half a pint of vinegar, and let it stand
all night; then strain and squeeze them as
before, adding the liquor which is obtained
from them to what was put aside the preced-
ing day, and add to it one ounce and a
quarter of whole black pepper, forty cloves,
half an ounce of nutmegs bruised, or sliced,
half an ounce of ginger, and five drachms of
mace, and boil it for half an hour; then
strain it off from the spices, and bottle it for
use.
WALNUT KETCHUP. (2) Take six
half-sieves of green walnut-shells, put them
into a tub, mix them up well with common
salt, (from two to three pounds,) let them
stand for six days, frequently beating and
mashing them; by this time the shells be-
come soft and pulpy; then by banking it up
on one side of the tub, and at the same time
by raising the tub on that side, the liquor
will dram clear off to the other; then take
that ltquor out: the mashing and banking-
up may be repeated as often as liquor is
found. The quantity will be alxutt six
quarts. When done, let it be simmered in
an iron boiler as long as any scum arises;
then bruise a quarter of a pound of ginger, a
quarter of a pound of allspice, two ounces of
long pepper, two ounces of cloves, with the
above ingredients; let it sluwly boil for half
an hour; when bottled, let an equal quantity
of the spice go into each bottle; when cork-
ed, let the bottles be filled quite up: cork
them tight, seal them over, and put them
into a cool and dry place for one year before
they are used.
WALNUT KETCHUP, FOR FISH
SAUCE. Take a quart of walnut pickle,
add to it a quarter of a pound of anchovies
and three-quarters of a pint of red Port, and
let it boil till reduced to one-third; then
strain it, and when cold, put it into small
bottles, and keep them closely corked.


WEL
WHI
244
WALN UT PICKLE. Put any quanti-
ty of the outside shells or green rinds of
ripe walnuts into a tub in which there is a
tap-hole; sprinkle them with water, raise
4he tub on one side, that it may stand in a
sloping direction, place another vessel under
it to receive the juice as it drops from the
tap-hole; this it will soon begin to do; and,
w hen a sufftcient quantity has been obtained,
to one gallon of this black liquor add two
large table-spoonfuls of salt, one large onion,
a stick of horseradish, a bunch of sweet
herbs, two bav leaves, a quarter of an ounce
of black pepper, the same of allspice and of
bruised ginger. Boil it slowly for twenty
minutes; strain it, and, when cold, stir tt
and bottle it for use, putting the spice into
the bottles.
WALNUTS, TO PICKLE. Gather
tlie nuts liefore tlte inside shell is hard, which
may lie known by trying them with a pin;
lay them into salt and water nine days,
changing the liquor every three days; then
take them out, and dry them in the atr on a
sieve or mat; they should not touch each
other, and they should be turned, that every
side may become black alike; then put
them into a jar. When half the nuts are
in, put in an onion, with about thirty cloves
stuck into ir. and add the rest of the nuts.
To one hundred walnuts allow half a pint
of mustard seed, a quarter of an ounce of
mace, half an ounce of peppercorns, and
sixty bay loaves; boil all the spice in some
good common vinegar, and pour it boiling
upon the nuts, observing that they are en-
tirely covered; stop the mouth of the jar
with a cloth, and when cold, cover it with
bladder or leather. In about six weeks
they will be fit for use, when they should lie
examined, and if they have absorbed the
vinegar so much as to leave any of the nuts
dry, more should be added, but it need not
be boiled.
WATER SOUCHY. Make a stock
with three or four flounders, boiled in three
quarts of water, two onions, and a bunch of
parsley, till they are soft enough to pulp
through a sieve with the liquor they were
boiled in; then season it with pepper, salt,
and some parsley chopped, and boil in it a
few flounders, with the brown skin taken
off, some nicely cleaned perch or tench.
Serve in a tureen, and with slices of bread
and butter to eat with it.
WELSH RABBIT. Pare the crust ofT
a tilice of bread, toast it nicely, divide it in
two, butter it, and lay upon each half a thin
slice of cheese which has been toasted in a
Dutch oven; if, when put upon the toast, it
not sufficiently browned, hold a salaman-
der, or hot shovel, over the top. Servfe if
very hot.
WHEY. (1) Make a pint of milk f boil;
put to it a glass or two of white wine; (put it
on the fire till it just boils again; then serf it on
one side till the curd bas settled; poi fir off
the clear whey, and sweeten it as you .dike.
Cider is often substituted for wine, or
half the quantity of vinegar that we liave
ordered wine. When there is no fire in
the sick room, this may be put hot into a
bottle, and laid between the bed and mat*
tress; it will keep warm several hours.
WHEY. (2) Put a very small portion
of renuet into a quart of milk, and lei it
stand by the side of the fire until turned;
then serve it in a dish, with sugar and a
little nutmeg, grated, and strewed over, or
strain the liquor carefully from the curd,
and serve quite clear.
WHEY, WHITE WINE. Boil a
pint of milk, and when it rises in the pan,
( pour in one glass of sherry and one of cur-
rant wine; let it again boil up, take it off
the fire, ana*, when it has stood a few min-
utes, remove the curd, pour off the clear
whey, and sweeten it.
WHIM WHAM. Sweeten a quart of
cream, and mix with it a tea-cupful of white
wine, and the grated peel of a lemon; whisk
it to a froth, which drain upon the back of a
sieve, and put part into a deep glass dish;
cut some Naples biscuit as thin as possible,
and put a layer lightly over the froth, and
one of red/ currant jellv, then a layer of the
froth, and one of the btscuit and jelly; finish
with the froth, and pour the remainder of the
cream into the dish, and garnish with citron
and candied orange-peel cut into straws.
WHITE BEET, LEAVES. Pick and
wash them clean, put them on in boiling
water with a little salt, cover the saucepan,
and boil them longer than spinach; drain off
the water, and beat them as spinach, with a
bit of butter and a little salt.
WHITINGS. In choosing whitings, 1«
careful that the skin has a silvery appear-
ance, that lhe body is firm, and the fins
stiff; these are sure proofs of its fresh-
ness.
WHITINGS, ENGLISH WAY. Put
into a saucepan two spoonfuls of oil, half a
lemon sliced (the pips and rind taken off),
salt, and pepper, two glasses of white wine,
the same of water, and let them boil nearly
a quarter of an hour; then put the whitings
properly cleaned, cook them in the above,


WH I
W 00
245
blanch a clove of garlic, and, beat it with
the back of a knife, put it with parsley,
shallots, and two glasses of champagne, into
a stewpan ; let it boil five minutes, then add
some butter, rolled in fiour, salt, and pepper;
stir it over the fire till smooth, then serve.
WHITINGS, FRIED. (1) Take as many
whitings as you may require; cleanse, scale,
and wipe them dry; then run them through
the eyes with a skewer, soak them well in
milk; flour, and fry them of a nice color.
Serve them on a napkin.
WHITINGS, FRIED. (2) Skin them,
preserve the liver, and fasten their tails to
their mouths; dip them in egg, then in
bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot lard, or
split them, and fry them like fillets of soles.
A three-quart stewpan, hnlf full of fat, is the
best utensil to fry whitings. They will be
done enough in about five minutes; but it
will sometimes require a quarter of an hour,
to drain the fat from them and dry them (if
the fat you put them into was not hot enough),
turning them now and then with a fish-
slice.
WHITE FISH AND SAUCE. Make
a rich gravy with a bit of veal, the heads and
fina of four or five haddocks, three or four
onions, some parsley, a little cayenue, black
pepper and salt, the juice of a lemon, half
the peel, a table-spoonful of ketchup, half a
pint of white wine, and two quarts of water;
simmer them for an hour, strain, and put to
it the meat of a lobster or crab minced, and
forcemeat balls; thicken it with half a pint
of cream, the yolks of three eggs beaten, anil
a pint of butter kneaded in flour. Have
ready boiled three haddocks skinued and
without their heads, pour the sauce over
them in a deep dish. Make the forcemeat
bails of a small boiled haddock finely minc-
ed, grated bread crumbs, butter, pepper,
sali, grated nutmeg, and parsley; bind them
with the whites of two eggs beaten, and fry
them in fresh lard of a light brown.
WHITE POT. Beat up the yolks of
eight, and the whites of four eggs, with two
quarts of new milk, a little rose water, a
nutmeg, grated, and a quarter of a pound
of sugar; cut a small roll into very thin
slices, lay them in a dish, and pour the
milk, &c. over them; put a bit of butter on
the top, and set it in the oven; it will take
half an hour baking.
WHITE ROUX, or TVkite Thickening
for Sauces and Made Dishes. Melt
gradually, over a slow fire, a good piece of
butter, and dredge in a sufficiency of flour to
make it like a thi.i paste; k*ep stirring it
for a quarter of an hour, and then put it into
a small jar to be kept for use.
WHITE SAUCE. See Bechamel.
WIDGEONS AND TEAL, Are dressed
exactly as the wild duck; only that less time
is requisite for a widgeon, and still less for
a teal.
WILD DUCKS. For roasting a wild
duck, you must have a clear, brisk fire, and
a hot spit; it must be browned upon the out-
side, without being sodden within. To have
it well frothed and full of gravy is the nicety.
Prepare the fire by stirring and raking it
just before the bird is laid down, and fifteen
or twenty minutes will do it in the fashion-
able way; but if you like it a little more
done, allow it a few minutes longer;- if it is
too much, it will lose its flavor.
WINE'MADEIRA) SAUCE. Take a
tea-spoonful of flour, and a preserved green
lemon, cut into dice, mix them with a gla?s
of Madeira wine, and a little consomme,
add an ounce of butter, some salt and nut-
meg; set these on a very hot stove to boil
for a quarter of an hour; then take it off,
put in a quarter of a pound of butter, set it
again on the fire, stirring constantly till the
butter is melted.
WINTER HOTCH-POTCH. Take
the best end of a neck or loin of mutton;
cut it into neat chops; cut four carrots, and
as many turnips into slices; put on four
quarts of water, with half the carrots and
turnips, and a whole one of each, with a
pound of dried green peas, which must be
put to soak the night before; let it boil two
hours, then take out the whole carrot and
turnip; bruise and return them; put in the
meat, and the rest of the carrot and turnip,
some pepper and salt, and boil slowly three-
quarters of an hour; a short time before
serving, add an onion cut small and a head
of celery.
WOODCOCKS. (1) The greatest
possible care should be taken, in picking of
these birds, to handle tbcm as little as pos-
sible, on account of the skin being so par-
ticularly tender, that when broken it spoils
the beauty of the bird. When picked, cut
off the pinions at the first joint, press the
legs close to the side, through which, and
the body, pierce the beak of the bird; then
cross the feet, and lay a slice of bacon over
the breast. Woodeocks and snipes may be
dressed according to the same rules.
WOODCOCKS. (2) Take a- pound
of lean beef, cut it into pieces, and put it


woo
yea
246
mto a saucepan, with two quarts of water,
an onion stuck witb cloves, two blades of
mace, and some whole pepper, boil all these
together till reduced to half; then strain it
off into another saucepan: draw the wood-
cocks, and lay the trail in a plate; put the
woodeocks into the gravy, and let them boil
in it for twelve minutes; while they are
boiling, mince the trail and liver very small;
put them into a small saucepan, with a lit-
tle mace; add four or five spoonfuls of the
gravy the woodeocks are boiled in; then
take the crumb of a stale roll, rub it fine
mto a dish placed before the fire, and put to
the trail, in the small saucepan, half a pint
of red port, a bit of butter, rolled in flour,
net it on the fire, and shake it round till the
butter is melted; then put in the bread-
crumbs, and shake the saucepan round; lay
the woodeocks in the dish, pour the sauce
over them, and serve.
WOODCOCKS. (3) Woodeocks should
not be drawn, as the trail is by the lovers
of "haut gout" considered a "bonne
bouche;" truss their legs close to the body,
and run an iron skewer through each thigh,
close to the body, and tie them on a small
bird spit; put them to roast at a clear fire;
cut as many slices of bread as you have
oirds, toast or fry them a delicate brown,
and lay them in the dripping-pan under the
birds to catch the trail; baste them with
butter, and froth them with flour; lay the
toast on a hot dish, and the birds on the
toast; pour some good beef gravy into the
dish, and send some up in a boat, twenty or
thirty minutes will roast them. Garnish
with slices of lemou. Some epicures like
this bird very much under-done, and direct
that a woodcock should be just introduced
to the cook, for her to show it the fire, and
then send it up to table.
WOODCOCKS IN A MINUTE. Put
a brace of woodeocks into a fryingpan,
with some butter, shred shallots, grated
nutmeg, salt, and pepper; set the pan on a
fierce fire, and fry the woodeocks lightly for
teven or eight minutes; then add the juice
of two lemons, half a glass of white wine,
and some raspings; and leave them on the
fire till the sauce has boiled up once; then
serve altogether.
WOODCOCK SALMIS. Cut up the
woodcock on the table, and put the pieces
on a dish, which place on a stand, with a
lamp under it; add pepper, salt, shred shal-
lots, nearly a glass of white wine, the juice
of three lemons, and a bit of butter; strew
raspings over, and boil stowly for ten min-
utes, slirring occasionally. Use spirits of
A'lne for your lamp.
I WOODCpCK SAUCE. Pound the
bones and livers of roasted woodeocks, and
them into a stew pan, with two spoon-
of cullis, and two spoonfuls of red port;
reduce it to the consistence of a sauce, and
then strain it; when strained, add pepper,
salt, and the juice of two oranges.
Y.
YEAST. Beer yeast, which is the best
for bread, should be sprained through a hait
sieve, and two or three quarts of cold spring
water poured over it; when it has stood fot
twenty-four hours the water should he poured
off, the yeast will then be found at the bottom
of the vessel, quite thick. To preserve that
which may be left over the baking, it should
lie put into a bottle, corked tightly, and kept
in a cool place. In cold weather tt will
continue good for a fortnight, but fresh yeast
is always preferable. When it does not ap-
pear sufficiently strong, honey or brown sugar
may be mixed with it, in the proportion of a
tea-spoonful to half a pint.
YEAST, BAKER'S. Boil two ounces
of hops in four quarts of water one hour,
adding more water as it decreases, carefully
stirring it all the time, and taking care that
it do not boil over; strain the liquor, and
mix well with it two pounds of malt; cover
it, and let it stand for eight hours, or until it
be milk warm, then stir in half a pint of
good yeast; when mixed well together, let
it work for ten hours, and then strain it
through a hair sieve.
YEAST, BRAN. Boil for ten minutes,
in two quarts of water, one pint of bran, and
a small handful of good hops; strain it
through a sieve, and when milk warm, add
three or four table-spoonfuls of beer yeast,
and two of brown sugar or treacle: put it
into a wooden stoup or jug; cover it, and
place it before the fire to ferment. It may
be bottled, tightly corked, and kept in a cool
place.
YEAST DUMPLINGS. Make a verv
light dough with yeast the same as for bread,
but with milk instead of water, add salt;
set it by the fire, covered up in a pan, for
half an hour, or an hour, to rise; in the mean
time, set on the fire a large saucepan of hot
water, and as soon as it boils, roll up the
dough into small balls, and put them into the
boiling water; keep them continually boiling
for ten minutes, then take them out, and serve
them immediately, with wine sauce over
them. To ascertain whether they are suffi-
put
fuls


YEA
ZES
247
f iently boiled, stick a fork into ope, and if it
comes out clean, it is done enough. Some
think the best manner of eating them is by
dividing them from the top by two forks, as
they become heavy bv their own steam, and
eat them lmmediately with meat, or sugar
and butter, or salt.
YELLOW GLAZE. Make a glare,
with a quarter of a pound of fine sugar in
powder, the white of an egg, to whlch add
by degrees as much lemon-juice as may be
necessary; when sufficiently beaten up, (and
the longer it is beaten the whiter it will be),
add to it a small quantity of infusion of saf-
fron, strained, and the yellow rind of one or
two lemons grated on a piece of sugar, scrap-
ed off and pounded; take care, however,
not to put too much of the latter, lest the
glaze should be bitter.
YEAST, TO MAKE. Boil for half an
hour two quarts of water, thickened with
about three spoonfuls of fine flour, and
sweetened with nearly half a pound of brown
sugar; when almost cold, put it into a jug,
adding four spoonfuls of fresh yeast; shake
it well together, let it stand uncovered near
dte fire for a day, to ferment. There will be
a thin hquor on the top, pour this off; shake
the remamder, and cork it up for use. To
make a half peck loaf you should use a quar-
ter of a pint of the above.
YEAST, POTATO. Boil some good
mealy potatoes; peel and weigh them; while
hot, bruise them finely, and mix them quickly
with boiling water, allowing one quart to
each pound; rub it through a hair sieve,
then add honey or brown sugar in the pro-
portion of one ounce to each quart of water;
boil it to the consistency of batter, and when
nearly cold, add a large table-spoonful of
good yeast to every quart of water; cover it
with a cloth to rise, and the following day it
will be ready for use; keep a bottle of it,
which may be used instead of beer yeast for
the next making, first pouring off the thin
liquid that is on the top. It must be made
with fresh beer yeast every two or three
months. Double the quantity of this, as of
beer yeast, is required to make bread
light.
ZESTS. Zest (a term of art, used by
confectioners) is the peel of oranges, lemons,
or citrons, cut from top to bottom, m small
slips or zests, as thin as possible.


ALM
ALM
252
ones. Bull nearly as much sugar as your
mould will require to souffle, put it in, and
uhr i tile td.noii.lti are q*iiiH dry, garnish the
Mhl'irt* of ihc sugir with them; do not,
ilowi'vi*tt lav them too thick, and just prest*
iIkmi down with a fak; put the mould in-
to ,i moderate oven for live hours, then drain
it well, and in another two hom a it may he
taken from the mould.
ALMONDS CINNAMON SPANISH.
Blanch your almonds, then with a bit of
butter tied in a piece of cloth, rub the pan
and brown them. Have ready some clari-
fied sugar, with powdered cinuamon stirred
in it, put in the almonds, and when well cov-
ered with the sugar and cinuamon, lay them
separately on tins, and dry in a slow oven.
ALMONDS TO COLOR. Almonds
rose colored. Blanch and cut sweet
almonds in small pieces, put them on a bak-
ing plate, and pour on them a little of any
vegetable liquid, of an infusion of cochineal,
or carmine; then rub them in your hands,
to mix them well with the color; when all
are so done, dry them in a stove or in the
oven.
ALMONDS VIOLET. Are done in the
same way, the coloring ingredieuts are
cochineal, and a little indigo dissolved in
water, put but a small quautity of the latter
at a time as it is very powerful.
ALMONDS GREEN. The same pro-
ceeding: the color is made with two hand-
fuls of fresh spinach, well washed, drained,
and then pounded; when very fine, press it
through a napkin; let the juice drop on a
dish, which place on a hot stove; as soon as
it begins to boil, take it off, stirring it con-
stautly* till the green curdles, then pour it
through a horsehair sieve* and when well
di amed strain it through a silk sieve or tam-
my; the juice thus obtained, will give the
almonds (which must be put in a few at a
time) a clear and even green color.
ALMONDS BLUE. Dissolve a little in-
digo in water, strain it through a cloth and
use it as above meutioned.
ALMONDS ORANGE COLORED.
Mix a little liquid retJ, and a little infusion
of saffron together, and proceed with the al-
monds as usual.
ALMONDS LEMON COLORED.
Infuse a small quautity of saffron in nearly,
boiling water for a few minutes; strain ana
follow the above direction.
ALMONDS CHOCOLATE COLOR-
ED. Are dyed with chocolate dissolved in
water and strained.
The almonds may be cut in slips, dice.
&c. according to fancy. Observe that thr
color of your almonds should tie light and
delicate; when done, place them, eitltei
separately or mixed together, in papei
cases.
ALMOND COUPEAUX. Blanch and
pound half a pound of sweet almonds with
the whites of three eggs iuto a very fine
paste, add to it six ounces of powdered su-
gar and the rind of a lemon grated; when
thoroughly mixed together, pour over U
alxmt lour spoonfuls of orange-flower water:
stir up the paste (which ought to be rather
thin,) once more, and then lay it with a
spoon on a plate of bright copper, in an
oval form, about three or four inches in
length. The plate being quite full, take it
up by both hands, and strike it steadily upon
a table, so that the paste may be extended,
but not much; then bake them uutil they be-
come of a deep yellow. Take them from
the copper with a knife, and whilst hot put
them on a wooden roller, about the thick-
ness of an arm, and press them with your
hand, that they may acquire the form of the
wood, and when cool place in a box, and
keep them dry. These coupeaux are very
brittle.
ALMONDS CRISPED. Rub a pound
of the best sweet almonds in a cloth to take
off all the dust, and then put them, with
a pound of sugar, half a glass of water and
a little carmine, iuto a preserving pan; put
them on the fire, and let them remain; when
the almonds crackle take them off and w ork
them about uutil the sugar is de tac hed from
the almonds, then take away part of the su-
gar, put the almonds on the fire again, and
stir them lightly with a spattda, (be careful
that the fire be not too quick;) and when
they have taken the sugar, add that which
had been removed, and coutinue to burn
them till they have imbibed that also. Place
a sheet of paper on a sieve, throw your al-
monds on it, separate those which adhere
together, and let them cool.
ALMOND DRAGEES. Take of the
best and largest almonds what quautity you
please, and having washed them in cold wa-
ter, let them drain and dry on a sieve for
tweuty-four hours. The next day weigh
them, and for each pound of almonds take
three pounds of sugar; clarify the latter and
boil it to the degree petit lisse; then let it
cool a little. Have your tossing pan ready j
on your right hand, a chafing dish to keep
your pan coutaining the sirup constantly
warm; and on your left hand, a table wito


ALM
ALM
254
of a spoonful of the almond glaze, and with
the blade of a knife spread it equally over
the surface for about the eighth of an inch,
and then let them stand for half an htfur
before you put them, into the oven, which
must be moderate. If you bake them imme-
diately after putting on the glaze, it wrinkles
and shrivels up, which spoils their appear-
ance, as they ought to be quite smooth and
even ; the cakes also require considerable
care in the baking; they should be slightly
colored on the top and the lower part red-
dish.
ALMOND GENOESE, BITTER.
Blanch two ounces four drachms of sweet,
and two ounces and a half of bitter almonds,
pound them to a paste and then put them
mto the following preparation : blanch and
pound four ounces of sweet almonds, and
when perfectly smooth, mix them in an earth-
en pan with six ounces of flour, the same of
powder-sugar, six yolks and two whole eggs,
a spoonful of brandy and a grain of salt.
Stir the whole for six minutes, then add six
ounces of butter slightly warmed but not
melted; work the butter well into the paste
for four or five minutes. Butter two moulds,
or paper cases, about nine or ten inches
square, pour in your preparation, smooth it
with the blade of a knife and then put them
to buke in a moderate oven, first strewing
on them four ounces of sweet almonds minced
and mixed with two ounces of powder-sugar,
and a Kttle white of egg. When done, cut
them into all possible forms, then replace
them in the oven to dry; when brittle, take
them out, let them cool, and decorate them
to your fancy.
ALMOND, GRILLAGE. Blanch
half a pound of almonds, cut them into four
or five slips, lengthways, pralinez them
with three-eighths of a pound of sugar, sand
them when they begin to crackle; then put
them on the fire again till they are well mixed
together and form a mass, which put on
wafer-paper lightly oiled, lay it flat, strew
over it cinuamon, sugar, plain or white
nonpareils, and then cut it in pieces.
ALMOND KNOTS. Take two pounds
of almonds, and blanch them in hot water;
beat them in a mortar, to a very fine paste,
with rose water, be careful to keep them from
oiling. Take a pound of double-refined su-
gar, sifted through a lawn sieve, leave out
some to make up the knots, put the rest in
a pan upon the fire, till it is scalding hot, at
the same time have the almonds scalding
hot in another pan ; then mix them together
with the whites of three eggs beaten to froth,
and let it stand until it is cold; then roll it
with some of the sugar left out for that
purpose, and lay them in platters of papa
They will not roll into shape, therefore lay
them as well as may be, and bake them tn
a slow oven.
ALMOND MILK. Take six ounces of
sweet almonds, and a pint of milk, four
drachms of orange-flower water, and five
ounces of sugar. Blanch and pound the
almonds to a very smooth paste, moistening
them occasionally with a few drops of milk;
when your paste crumbles, put it in the milk
and mtx them well, and boil it ttll reduced
to half, then let it boil up once more; let
it cool and serve.
ALMOND MIRLITONS. Blanch an
ounce of sweet, and the same of bitter al-
monds, and dry them in an oven ; when cold,
pound them with a little white of egg to
prevent their oiling; then put them into an
earthen pan with two ounces of bitter maca-
roons, five ounces of powder-sugar, four whole
eggs, and a grain of salt; when these are
well mixed together, add two ounces of butter,
lukewarm. Make a proper quantity of puff
paste, roll it out thin, and cut it into thirty
round pieces about two inches and three-
quarters in diameter, and put each of thes*.
into a tartlet mould buttered ; put the mirli-
tons on this, and when all are equally full,
cover them with powder sugar sifted over
them through a tammy ; as soon as that is
dissolved stre'w more (but not such fine) pow-
der sugar over, and bake them in a moderate
oven. Serve either hot or cold.
ALMOND MONCEAUX. Take half
a pound of sweet almonds, cut them into thin
slips (lengthways) and roast them on an iron
until they are of a deep yellow color, inclin-
ing to brown ; beat up the whites of six or
eight eggs with a spoon in an earthen pan.
Pour over the almonds a pound of sugar finely
powdered, four ounces of candied orange peel,
the same of candied lemon-peel, also cut into
thin slips, half a spoonful of powdered cinua-
mon, and six or eight cloves pounded; mix
these ingredients well in the pan, and place
it on paper in little heaps of a pyramidal
form, and bake them in a well-heated oven.
ALMOND PASTE. Blanch two pounds
of sweet almonds, and soak them in cold
water for twelve hours, then dry them in a
napkin, and pound a quarter of them to a
very fine paste with a little water and lemon-
juice, pass them through a sieve, and then
pound the remainder (half a pound at a time.)
When atI are done, mix them with a pound
of sifted sugar; place them over a gentle fire,
stirring it contmually, until the paste will
flow from the spoon; then pour it into a
mortar, and when it becomes lukewarm,


ALM 255 ALM
pound it again with an ounce of gum-dragon
previously dissolved in a glass of water and
strained, the juice of two lemons, and a
pound of sifted sugar. As soon as your paste
is of the proper consistence, take tt out and
lay it on the slab, sprinkled first with sugar;
divide your paste into three parts, and color
each part according to your fancy. The
coloring or dyes are made of the same
materials as are used for almonds.
ALMOND PASTE to keep six, or
even twelve months. Blanch and pound
a pound of sweet almonds, moistened occa-
sionally with water, to prevent their oiling;
when well beaten, add half a pound of line
powdered sugar, and mix the whole into a
paste to use when you have occasion. When
wanted, mix a piece about the size of an egg
with three gills of water, and strain it through
a napkin.
ALMOND PRALINES, (dried, pre-
served or burnt.) A pound of the best
almonds must be washed in cold water;
when thoroughly dry, put them into a pre-
serving pan with a pound of sugar and a pint
and a half of water, keep them on the fire,
stirring them continually, wntil they crackle
and fly about, and the sugar logins to color,
stir them about gently to gather tlte sugar,
and leave them in the pan to dry about two
hours, in a stove or any moderate heat.
ALMONDS, RED CRISPED. Pre-
pare them as above until they have taken
the sugar and are ready to be .taken off the
fire, put the almonds upon a sieve with a
dish under, take the sugar that drops, and
put it into the same pan, adding a little
fresh; refine it till it comes to the twelfth
degree au casse, then take cochineal, color
suffictent to tinge the almonds, and put them
therein ; give them a few turns over the fire
in the sugar, and finish as at firsti
ALMOND SWEETMEATS (YEL-
LOW.) Blanch a pound of sweet almonds,
wash them in cold water, and when quite dry,
pound them with a sufficient quantity of yolks
of eggs, into a fine but rather stiff paste:
add to them a pound of powdered sugar and
the rinds of two lemons grated ; knead the
paste well with your hands, first sprinkling
the table with sugar. Form the paste into
what figures you please, such as fleur-de-lis,
trefoil, &c. each being about the size and
weight of a macaroon. Place them on white
paper and on an iron plate, fry them in a mo-
derately hot stove. If they are of a deep
yellow, they are sufftciently done.—These
sweetmeats may be still further ornamented
in the following manuer:—Boil some sugar
in orange-flower water to the degree called
grande plume, and as soon as the sweet-
meats are taken from the stove or oven, wash
them over with alight brush dipped in the
sirup; this will give them a delicious per-
fume, and they may then be called & la
glace. When cold, take them from the
paper and put them into glasses for the table.
ALMONDS, ROCK OF ALICAN-
TE, SPANISH. Clarify honey, and
stir into it as many blanched almonds as
you can entangle. Leave it to cool. This
makes a pretty crystaline ornament for the
dessert; it is also called Rock of Gibraltar,
ALMOND WAFERS. Take a pound
of sweet almonds, blanch and pound them,
add a pound of powder-sugar, a pinch of
orange-flowers pralinee, put them into a
basin, and moisten them with a sufftcient
quantity of whites of eggs to enable you to
spread the paste on wafer paper with the
blade of a knife (the wafer paper must be
rubbed with virgin wax and sweet oil); lay
the preparation on as thin as possible; chop
some sweet almonds very small, mix them
with sugar, and strew them over the wafers
and put them into a hot oven ; when about
half baked, take them out and cut them in
squares; replace them a minute in the oven,
take them out again, and press them on a
stick to give them the proper form ; as soon
as they are cold, put them on a sieve. Just
before they are served they should be slightly
warmed.
ALMOND COMPOTE, GREEN.
Take the peel very carefully from your al-
monds, and put them with water on the fire
till they are tender ; then take them off and
add a little more water ; when nearly cold
put them on the fire again, but do not let
them boil; as soon as you find the head of
a pin will penetrate easily, they are then
sufficiently done, and may be thrown into
cold water; and when the fruit is quite cold,
drain them. In the meantime put some
clartfied sugar on the fire, and when it boils
put in the almonds; boil them in the sugar
about twenty lunes, then remove them, and
let the almonds stand to take the sugar : in
about two hours' time put them on the fire
again, and boil them up a dozen times ; after
which, take them off, skim, and let them
cool. When quite cool drain and put the
fruit in a compotier. If the sugar should
not be sufftciently done, boil as much more
as you may think necessary ; squeeze in the
juice of an orange, boil it once again, and
when nearly cold strain it through a cloth
into the compotier over the almonds.
ALMOND NONPAREILS, GREEN.
Drain some grata almond* that kavs bt«a


ANG
ANG
256
preserved in brandy; dip them one by one
m sugar prepared au cassG, and roll them
in white, or any other colored nonpareils,
and dry them in a stove, or gentle oven.
ALMOND (GREEN) PRESERVED.
Put nome water into a saucepan, with two
handfuls of bran, and when it has boiled up
twice, throw in some green almonds; let
them botl up once, then take them out with
a skimmer, and rub them well in your hands
to take off the down ; as you do this, throw
them into cold water; then boil them in
water till, on pricking them, a pin easily
enters and they shrink : then clarify some
sugar, a pound to a pound of fruit; botl up
the sirup four or five successive days, morn-
ing and evening, without the frutt, which
you leave to drain upon a sieve; lastly, put
the fruit into a pan, and when rather more
than lukewarm, pour the sirup over it; when
they look very green they afre sufficiently
done.
ANDAYE BRANDY. An ounce of
bruised aniseed, an ounce of bruised corian-
der seed, two ounces of powdered Florence
irts, the zestes of two oranges; put them
with three quarts of distilled brandy into the
alembic bain-marie; dissolve two pounds
and a half of sugar in two pints and a half
of clear river water, add them to the distilled
liqueur, pass the whole through a strainer,
and put into bottles.
ANGELICA CAKES. Take four oun-
ces of angelica powder, and two pounds of
fine sugar. Beat up the white of an egg
with a little sifted sugar, until it is of the con-
sistence of cream cheese ; dissolve the sugar
in a skillet and skim it ; when it has boiled
a little, throw in the angelica, and boil the
sugar to petit casse', then take it from the
fire, put in half a spoonful of the beaten egg,
and stir it quickly until the sugar rises, then
stop, and when it has fallen again, stir till
it rises a second time ; it may now be pour-
ed into moulds or paper cases, well oiled and
sptinkled with sifted sugar.
ANGELICA (essence of) JELLY.
Having washed and well dried two ounces of
angelica-roots ; cut them in pieces and throw
them into boiling sirup, (three-quarters of a
pound of sugar,) with an ounce of bruised
angelica seeds; cover the mixture close, and
when cold, add to it half a glass of kirsch-
wasser, and pass it through a tammy; then
filter, and afterwards put to it an ounce of
isinglass: stir it lightly with a silver spoon;
pound ten pounds of ice, and put it into a
large sieve or pan, place your mould in the
middle of the ice, taking care that it touches
the ice in every part; pour the jelly into the
mould, cover it with a saucepan lid, put tc*
on that, and let it stand for three Itours; after
that time have ready a saucepan large enough
to take in the mould easily ; fill it with water
so warm that you can scarcely bear your hand
in it; plunge the mould in so as to allow the
water to puss over the whole, but as quickly
tts possible, and then turn the jelly into your
dish for table. This last operation should
be performed with great agility. Observe,
in making these kind of jellies, that no tinued
or pewter vessels or spoons should be used,
as they impart a violet tinge to your jellies,
which ought to be of the color of the ingre-
dients employed, as for instance tlte above
should be a clear light green color.
ANGELICA LIQUEUR. Wash,
scrape, and cut in small pieces, twelve ounces
of fresh, or half the quantity of Bohemian
angelica roots, and infuse them for a week
in six pints of brandy and one of water, with
a drachm of mace, two drachms of cinuamon,
and twelve cloves; at the end of that lune
distil it, then dissolve three pounds of sugar
in three pints of water; mix it with the
liqueur, strain it through a jelly-bag, or fil-
ter it through paper. Observe, that the best
brandy for liqueurs is that which is made
at Montpelier, as it yields more in distilla-
tion than the Cogniac. Take notice also
that the first drops which fall from the alem-
bic after it is placed on the stove, must not
be mixed with the liqueur. A glass should,
therefore, be placed under the mouth of the
alembic to receive them, and when about a
quarter of it is filled you may remove it, and
place your bottles or matrass. The phlegm,
as these droppings are called, are good for
nothing.
ANGELICA PASTE. Takeyoungand
pithy angelica stalks, boil them till tender,
drain and press all the water out; beat them
in a mortar to a pastei, and rub it through a
sieve. Next day dry it over the fire, and to
every pound of paste put a pound of powder-
sugar. When the paste is hot add the sugar,
stirring it till thoroughly mixed, over a gentle
fire. Drop it on plates, dust a little sugar
over them, and dry them in a stove.
ANGELICA PRESERVED. Take the
stalks of angelica when of a good size, but
before they have run to seed; clear off the
leaves, and as yon cut the stalks into proper
lengths throw them into water, and boil them
till the stalks are soft; take them from the
fire, and put them into cold water; take off
the skin, and again put them into cold water;
then drain and put them into an earthen pan,
and pour over a sufficient quantity of clarified
sugar to float the angelica. In twenty-four
hours boil the sugar ten or a dozen times.


ANI
ANI
257
said when lukewarm pour it over the stalks.
Proceed in the same way for four succeeding
days; after which, drain the stalks, and in
the meanwhile boil the sugar (adding more,
if necessary) to the degree grande perle;
prnVthe angelica to this, cover it close, and
let it boil five or six times. Take it from
the fire, scum, and put it by in pots.
ANGELICA PRESERVED DRY.
Proceed as for the liquid, until you have
poured the sugar an grand perle over the
angeltca ; leave it for a day in the sugar,
then drain and dry it on slates, or iron plates,
in a stove.
ANGELICA RATAFIA. Take six
pints of brandy, a pint of river water, three
pounds of sugar, two ounces of fresh gathered
angelica-roots, Use same quantity of angelica
seed; mace and clove, a drachm of each.
Wash and dry the roots well, cut them in
slices, and put them, with the seeds and
spices bruised, into the brandy, to infuse for
twenty days; then strain it, and having ad-
ded to it the sugar dissolved in river water,
filter and lxntle your ratafia.
ANGELICA RATAFIA. Strip the an-
gelica stalks of their leaves, and cut them
mto small pieces, which put into the best
brandy and water, in the proportion of four
littes of brandy and two of water to one
pound of angelica, and four pounds of sugar
to the same quantity; add cloves and cinua-
mon ; let it stand six weeks, then filter and
bottle it.
ANGELICA WATER. Wash eight
bandfuls of angelica leaves, cut, and lay them
on a table to dry. When quite dry, put
them in an earthen pot with a gallon of strong
wine lees. Let it stand twenty-four hours,
stir it twice in that time, then j-ut it into a
warm still or alembic; draw off i.'to bottles,
covered with paper pricked in hole*i, and let
them stand thus two or three days. Sweeten
it, and when it is settled, bottle, and stop it
close.
ANISEED, OIL OF. Is made like ani-
seed water, the only difference is, that an
additional pound of sugar is necessary to
majte the sirup.
ANISE PETIT PAINS. Put two
glasses of water and two ounces of fresh but-
ter into a stewpan, and when the liquid boils
take it from the fire, and mix with it six
ounces of sifted flour; amalgamate it thor-
oughly, so that it may be quite free from
lumps ; then dry it over the fire. Take it
out of the saucepan, and add to it two eggs,
and two ounces of pow ier-sugar; mtx them
well in, and then put in two more eggs and
the zeste of a lemon minced fine: when
these are also well incorporated, add another
egg or two, if the paste (which should be ra-
ther firm,) will bear them. Sprinkle your
paste slab with flour, cut the paste into
pieces, each the size of a walnut; roll these
with as little flour as possible, to about three
inches long, and as you roll them place them
on a baking-tin, two inches apart; dorez
and bake them in a tolerably warm oven till
they are firm. Then cul some anise into
fillets, boil a quarter of a pound of sugar to
casse', and the moment it reaches that de-
gree set it by the side of the fire that the
sugar may not lose its whiteness; dip the
top and one side of each petit pain in the
sugar as quick as possible, and as you take
them out, strew the anise over them lightly.
Red anise is also used for these petit
pains.
ANISEED RATAFIA. To make a
quart of this liqueur, boil a pound of sugar
with a demisetier of water, until the sugar
is quite clear; then heat another demisetier
of water, and put in it three ounces of anise;
take it from the fire before it boils; let it
stand a quarter of an hour, and then pour it
with three pints of brandy into the sugar;
mix all well together, and then pour into a
vessel, which must be closed tight, and
placed in the sun. Let it stand three weeks,
and then bottle it.
ANISEED WATER. Choose eight
ounces of new green anise, sift it well to
free it from the dust, and then infuse in six
pints of brandy, with the zestes of three
lemons, and half an ounce of cinuamon; in
a week's time distil it over a moderate fire,
put a pint of water into the alembic; take
care to collect the phlegm before you draw
off the aniseed water. Dissolve three pounds
of sugar in three pints of water. As the
anise contains an acid salt, which renders
this liqueur milky, the following proceeding
is necessary:—Reserve a pint of the water
from that in which you dissolved the sugar,
and mix with the white of three or four
eggs, well whipped, and while the sirup is
hot put to it this egg-water and the aniseed
water; stir it over the fire until the whole
is hot without boiling; then put it into a
glass jar, cork it well, and let it stand; the
! next day bottle and filter it.
ANISETTE DE BORDEAUX. Take
two ounces of green aniseed, half a pound
of aniseed, two ounces of coriander, and the
same of fennel seeds- Bruise, and put them,
with sixteen pints of brandy, into an alem-
bic bain-marie. Then dissolve thirteen
pounds of sugar in two quarts of river water.


APP
APR
25S
which must be put to your liqueur when dis-
tilied. Filter and bottle it.
APPLE FRITTERS. Turn twelve
small apple.-, rut them i-tto halves, an.I buil
diein m nh up, then leave I hem to cool.
When they nre mid, make an extremely
thio crust with brioche paste. Make a
fritter ior each half apple, then fry them and
finish the «aute as Fritter^ a. la Dauphine.
Pears cut into quarters are made in the
same manuer as the above.
APPLES AND ALMONDS Ltttle
Cakes. Proceed the same as above till
the marmalade is spread over the under -
crust, then cover it with almonds cut in fil-
lets, press them in lightly; mask them with
powder -sugar and bake in a moderate oven.
As i«wn as cold, cut your gateaux accord-
ing to your fancy, either round, oblong, lo-
zenge, or crescent--shalied.
APPLE MARMALADE, Ltttle
Cakes. Make a marmalade of twenty-four
apples in the usual way, with a quarter of a
pound of sugar, and a quarter of a pot of
apricots, and the zeste of a lemon, shred
fine. Make your paste, and proceed as di-
rected for Petits Gateaux glaces of apricots.
Sprinkle them (when marked) with powder-
sugar. Bake them in a moderate oven and
finish them.
APPLE PETIT GATEAUX WITH
Ptstachtos. Make an under-crust of the
same size and thickness as directed for petiis
gateaux glacis of apricots, and cover it
with apple marmalade; when baked, mash
the apples with a little apricot marmalade,
and strew over a quarter of a pound of pis-
tachio nuts cut in small pieces, and then put
it in the oven again for a few minutes to dry
the apricots. When cold cut them into the
usual forms.
APPLES AND PISTACHIOS. Pre-
pare and toss up a dozen apples for this
gateau with apples and raisins, with the ad-
dition of two ounces of sugar, and instead
of the zeste of an orange, grate that of a
lemon, and put three ounces of pistachio nuts
blanched, in the place of the raisins. Pro-
ceed in the same manuer as directed in that
recipe, strewing on the dome of the gateau
pistachio and sugar, each nut cut into six
pieces; and when the crown is put round
the band, place a pistachio nut in the mid-
dle of each meringue, bake it of a light
solor in a slow oven, and serve it hot.
APPLE MERINGUEES. Put some
apple marmalade on a dish, in a pyramid:
whip the whites of two eggs to a Froth, mix
with them two spoonfuls of powder-sugar
and a little lemon-peel chopped extremely
small; decorate your apples with this prep-
aration, glaze them with sugar, and color
them in the oven.
APPLE MERINGUE. Lay a timbale
paste in a tart pan, egg and prick it all over,
and bake it; lay in it a puree of apples, and
finish with white of egg, as for a la Torque;
serve it hot.
APPLES PUREE. Peel and core a
dozen or more good baking apples; set them
over the fire to stew with some clarified
sugar and a small bit of lemon-peel; when
soft, stir them well with a wooden spoon,
and put in a spoonful of apricot jam; stir it
at times till the jam is mixer} and the apples
thicken, then rub the whole through a
tammy.
APPLES, SOUFFLE PARISIEN.
Make a marmalade of three dozen apples,
half a pound of powder-sugar, the peel of a
lemon, and a glass of water; dry it as much
as you possibly can, for on that the good ap-
pearance of the souffle paristen chiefly
depends; then put it into a large stewpan.
Whip the whites of fifteen eggs to a strong
froth, with a pound of powder-sugar. Mix
a quarter of this at first, with the apple mar-
malade, then stir the whole together, and
pour it into a croustade prepared as usual.
(See Souffle.) Bake it for an hour in a
moderate oven. Serve it as soon as possi-
ble after taking it from the oven. Glaze it
with powder-sugar.
APPLE SIRUP. Take six apples,
pare and cut them into small pieces; put
them into a matrass with three-quarters of
a pound of sugar and two glasses of water;
stop it close and place it in a bain marie,
and leave' it about two hours, letting the
water be boiling; move the matrass fre-
quently without taking it out of the water;
this must be done carefully lest it should
break on being exposed to the cold air;
when done put out the fire, and let the mat-
rass cool before you take it out. When the
sirup is nearly cold, flavor it with lemon-
juice, and add a spoonful of spirits of lemon
or cinuamon, orange-flower water, or what-
ever else you may choose. If any dregs
should arise, let it stand for some hours
longer, and then gently pour the sirup into
bottles. Great care must be taken to pre-
vent its being muddy.
APRICOTS BOTTLED. Press the
quantity of ripe apricots you may require


APR
APR
259
through a horse-hair sieve; put the pulp into
bottles, cork them very close, and tie them
over; place these bottles upright in a large
saucepan, with hay between to prevent their
touching; put the saucepan on the fire, and
fill it with water. When the water is near
boiling, take it off and let it stand till the
bottles are cold; then put them in a cellar,
without touching each other, until wanted,
when they will be found as good to use as
fresh fruit. The apricots may also be pre-
served whole by the same means.
APRICOTS IN BRANDY. Choose
your apricots when quite ripe, let them he
free from spots, rub them carefully with a
linen cloth, to take off the down. Weigh
your fruit, and to each pound put a quarter
of a pound of sugar. Clarify it, and boil it
to the degree tgrand perle, then put in the
apricots: boil them three or four times, tak-
ing care to turn them frequently, that they
may take the sugar in all parts. Take them
off the fire, and put tbem one by one into
glass bottles; the sirup being by this time
nearly cold, pour the brandy (three demise-
tiers to each pound) into it by degrees, stir-
ring constantly to mix it well with the sirup.
When thoroughly incorporated, pour it into
the bottles, the fruit at first will float; but
when the brandy and sugar have soaked in
they will sink to the bottom; they are then
fit to eat.
APRICOT COMPOTE, GREEN.
Green apricots are done exactly the same as
green almonds. See Almonds.
APRICOT COMPOTE. Peel, cut,
and take the stones from your fruit, and put
them on the fire in a little water, and when
they rise they are sufficiently done, and may
be taken out, cooled, and drained. Then
put them into a little clarified sugar and give
them three or four boilings; skim them well,
and then put your fruit aside; boil the sugar
alone four or five times more, and pour it
over the apricots. When cold place them
itHhe compotier.
APRICOT CONSERVE. Take half-
ripe apricots, peel and cut them into thin
slices, dry them over a gentle fire; to four
ounces of fruit put one pound of sugar, boil-
ed to the degree la plume forte; when the
sugar is nearly cold put in the fruit, taking
lare to it well with a spoon, that they
may be wall incorporated.
APRICOTS PARISIEN. Take five
dozen very fine apricots, cut them in half,
and put them, a few at a time, over the fire,
with half a pound of sugar and four glasses
of water; as soon as you find the peel will j
come off easily, take them out and drain
them, and put fresh apricots into the sirup,
and proceed the same until all are pealed,
then reduce the sirup to the usual consis-
tence. Put a pound of rice, half a pound
of butter, the same of sugar, on which grate
the zestes of four lemons, a little salt, eight
or nine glasses of milk, and three-quarters
of a pound of raisins, into a saucepan, and
when it boils take it from the fire and put it
on hot cinders, stirring it occasionally for
an hour, when, if the rice be quite soft, mix
the yolks often eggs with it.
APRICOTS IN JELLY. Pare and
stone your apricots, scald them a little, lay
them m a pan, and cover them with clart-
fied sugar; next day drain the sirup, and
boil it smooth, then add the apricots and
boil together; the following day make a
jelly with codlings, boiling some apricots
among tl.em, to give a better flavor. When
the jelly is done put in the other fruit with
the sirup, and boil altogether, skim it well
and put it in glasses.
APRICOT MARMALADE. Peel the
apricots, and take out the stones; to each
pound of fruit put three-quarters of a pound
of clarified sugar, boil it to the degree gro*
boulet, then put in the apricots, boil both to--
gether: when it flows readily it may be put
into pots.
APRICOT RATAFIA. Peel and cut
into pieces as many ripe apricots as you
may require, and boil them in white wine
(about a pint to four dozen;) strain and
mix it with an equal quantity of brandy;
put the whole into a jar, with the kernels
bruised, add a quarter of a pound of sugar
to each pint. Let it infuse for three weeks,
then filter and bottle it.
APRICOT SWEETMEAT, whole
and dry. Choose fine firm apricots, make
a little opening at the top to take out the
stone, put them into cold water, then blanch
them over the fire; when they begin to boil,
take out those which are soft, throw them
into cold water, and drain them. In the
meantime, prepare some clarified sugar to
petit lissk. When it boils put in the apri-
cots, and boil up a few times together. The
next day separate the sugar from the fruit,
boil & la nappe, and then pour it over the
apricots again; the following day boil the su-
gar petit perUi then add the fruit, and boil
together; the fourth day drain them; and,
having placed them on iron plates, sprinkle
them with sugar before you put them mto
the stove to dry; when dry, place in boxes
in layers, placing a sheet of paper between
each layer.
22*


BAR
BER
261
BARBERRY MARCHPANE. Take
three pounds of sweet almonds, two pounds
and a half of sugar, and a pound of bar-
Berries; pound the almonds to a paste, mix
them with the sugar boiled to petit boule,
and then add the juice of the barberries
strained; stir them together well, and place
them on hot ashes, stirring them continual-
ly until the paste is formed; then put it on
a table sprinkled with sugar and let it cool;
spread it out about the thickness of a crown
piece, cut it into various forms, place them
on sheets of paper, and bake them in a
moderate oven and glaze them. You may
use any other fruit you think proper.
BARBERRY PASTILE. Dissolve
half an ounce of gum-dragon in a glass of
water, strain it in a cloth or bag, and put
it into a mortar, with a spoonful of bar-
berry marmalade; mix it well, and add as
much powder-sugar as will make it into a
malleable paste; you may also put in a lit-
tle cochineal dissolved; form it into what
shapes you please.'
BARBERRIES PRESERVED IN
Bunches.- Choose those barberries which
have the largest seeds, which may be ex-
tracted carefully with the nib of a pen.
Weigh your fruit, and mix it with an
equal weight of sugar boiled to petit boule;
boil them together two or three times, and
skim it. Set it aside in an earthen vessel
until the next day, when it may be put in
pots and covered.
BARBERRY WAFERS. Press out
the juice from as many barberries as you
may require, and mix it with powder-su-
gar, antl the white of one egg, and stir it
up with a wooden or silver spoon, to a
fine paste. Lay a sheet of wafer paper on
a baking plate, and spread your paste over
it very thin with a knife; cut it into twelve
pieces, and put them round a stick (the
paste upwards) in a hot stove to curl; when
half curled, take them off carefully, and set
them up endways in a sieve; let them stand
for a whole day in a hot stove.
BARBERRY WATER. Put two large
spoonfuls of barberry jam, the juice of two
lemons and a gill of sirup in a basin, and
dilute it with water; add a little cochineal,
and if not rich enough, more sirup; strain
it through a fine sieve.
BARLEY SUGAR. Clarify two pounds
of sugar, and boil it to caramel height, in
9. deep coplier vessel with a lip; pour it in
straight lines about an inch thick, on a
marble slab previously rubbed with butter.
Whilst hot, take each end of the strips of
sugar and twist it; when cold cut it Into
proper lengths and put them by in glasses.
They must be kept in a dry place.
BARLEY SUGAR DROPS. Proceed
as for barley sugar. Have ready a large
sheet of white paper, covered wlth a smooth
layer of sifted^sugar. Pour out the boiled
sugar in drops the size of a shilling; when
cold, fold them separately in paper, a few
drops of the essence of ginger or lemon will
improve the flavor.
BARLEY SIRUP. Make of a pound of
barley three quarts of barley water; strain
out the barley, and put to the water a hand-
ful of scabious, tormentil, hyssop, agrimony,
horehound, maiden hair, sanicle, betons,
burage, buglose, rosemary, marigolds, sage,
violets and cowslips, of each a pint, when
picked; a pound of raisins stoned, half
a pound of figs cut, a quarter of a pound of
dates stoned; half a pound of green liquor-
ice, caraway, fenuel and aniseed, of each
one ounce, hartshorn, ivy, elecampane
roots, of each an ounce; the roots of fen-
nel, asparagus, couchgrass, polipodinm,
and oak parsley, of each a handful: clean,
bruise the seeds, slice the roots, and put all
into the barley water, cover close, and
boil genlly for twelve hours; then strain
and press out the juice, and let it stand
twenty-four hours; when clear, add to it
rose water and hyssop, half a pint of each,
and a pint of clarified juice of coltsfoot, a
drachm of saffron, three pints of the best
honey, and as many pounds of sugar as
quarts of liquor, boil this an hour and a ■>
half, keeping it clean scummed, then bot-
tle it, cork it well, and put by lor use.
BARLEY WATER. Put a quarter
of a pound of pearl-barley into two quarts
of water, let it boil, skim it very clean,
boil half away, and strain it olf. Sweeten
according to taste, and put in two glasses
of white wine, or some lemon-juice. Drink
it warm.
BERGAMOT DROPS. Mix the juice
of four or five lemons, and some sifted su-
gar, with a wooden spoon; add to this
twenty drops of essence of bergamot; mix
it well in, and having stirred it over the
fire three or four minutes, drop it about
the, size of a sixpence on writing paper,
and let them stand till cold.
BERGAMOT WAFERS. Squeeze
six lemons into a basin, and mix some
sifted sugar, essence of bergamot, and the
white of an egg, with the juice; beat
them together till very white; if it becomes
too thick, add the jutce of another ienaon;


BIS
BIS
262
Fpread your paste, and dry them as bar-
berry wafersi
UERGAMOT WATER. To the'rinds
of three bergamots, put a gallon of proof
ppirit, ,md two quarts of water; draw off
ane gallon by the bain marie, and sweeten
with sugar.
BERGAMOT WATER. Take three
gills of sirup, the juice of six lemons, and
when diluted sufficiently with water, add
a tea-spoonful of essence of bergamot.
Strain it through a fine sieve for use.
BERGAMOT WATER ICE. Stir
together the juice of three lemons, two gills
of sirup, half a pint of water, and half a
tea-spoonful of essence of bergamot, stram
an,l freeze it.
BETONY, CONSERVE OF. Take
a pound of Iietony, three pounds of loaf su-
gar, beat them in a stone mortar; boil the
sugar with two quarts of betony water to
the thickness of a sirup, then mix them to-
gether by little and little, over a gentle
fire, make it into a conserve, and keep it in
glasses.
BISCUITS. Lay the rind of a lemon
in boiling water, till it he tender; take half
a pound of sweet almonds, and blanch them
in cold water, and two ounces of gum-drag-
on, which soak in fatr water; then pound
the almonds, putting in as you pound, the
whltes of two eggs beaten hollow; pound
the lemon in a stone mortar by itself, and
put the gum and the lemon into the almonds,
and mix them well together; then beat a
pound of fine sugar in a mortar with the al-
monds, gum and lemon, and afterwards add
two pounds more of fine sugar, stirring it
with a spoon, then roll it up in little rolls,
and lay them upon white papers, and set
them in the oven.
BISCUITS IN CASES. Prepare
your mixture the same as for spoon biscuits,
and fill some little round or square cases
with it. Tlien with the rolling pin crush
some fine sugar, but not to a powder, and
strew it over your biscuits, which place on
a copper plate, and when the sugar begins
to dissolve put them in a gentle oven, at the
mouth of which put a shovel full of burning
coals to crystallize the sugar; and when that
assumes the appearance of little pearls, re-
move the coals and close the oven. These
oiscuits will require from twenty to twenty-
five minutes baking.
BISCUITS ICED Beat up the white
of etght, and the volks of six eggs, with a
pound of fine nowdered sugar, for two hours
Have ready fourteen ounces of well-dried
sifted flour; when the oven is ready and
your plates buttered, mix the flour as quick
as possible with the eggs, &c., and lay the
biscuits on the plates ; you may add a little
musk and ambergris. Bake in a quick oven
BISCUIT, ITALIAN. Bake a biscuit,
made like Iced biscuit, in a plain, round
mould; cut it across, in slices an inch
thick; pour on each slice a spoonfuPof true
maraschino, and when they have imbibed
this, place them in their proper form, and
mask the whole, either with white of egg and
sugar, as biscuit with sweetmeats, or with
apricot marmalade, on which strew pounded
macaroons.
BISCUITS OF ITALIAN WATER.
Whisk up six eggs, and an equal weight of
powder-sugar, for half an hour. Take six
more eggs and their weight of flour, and mix
all together, and lay this mixture on paper, in
cakes the eighth of an inch thick, and about
two inches diameter; lay them quite flat,
and do not let them touch. The oven should
be hot; five minutes will bake them. When
cold, wet the under side of the paper, and
they will then remove easily.
BISCUITS, JUDGES. Break six
eggs into a basin, and whisk them well
for five minutes, add half a pound of pow-
der-sugar, and whisk again fur ten minutes
longer; put some caraway-seeds and half
a pound of dry sifted flour; mix them all
together with a wooden spoon. Drop them
on paper about the size of a crown-piece,
and thick in the middle; sift sugar over,
and bake them in a brick oven. Take
them off the paper while hot.
BISCUITS, LIGHT. Take ten eggs,
put the yolks of five in a pan with a few
crisped orange-flowers, the peel of a green
lemon, both shred fine, and three-quarters
of a pound of fine sugar; beat the whole
together till the sugar ts dissolved and well
mtxed with the eggs. Beat the ten whites
to a froth, and add to the sugar, stir in
lightly, and by degrees, six ounces of flour,
put them into buttered moulds, powdering
them with fine sugar, and bake them in a
moderate oven.
BISCUITS, MANQUES. Put into an
earthen pan half a pound of powder-sugar,
three-quarters of a pound of flour, a quarter
of a pound of butter, the same of pounded
almonds, a little salt, and some orange-
flower water, six yolks, and two whole
eggs ; beat up these ingredients well; whip
the six whites, and mix them gradually


BIS
BIS
263
with the above preparation; make a paper
case, butter and pour in it your biscuit
paste and bake it. Meanwhile cut some
almonds into either dice or slips, mix them
with some powder-sugar and white of egg;
when the biscuit manques is about three
parts done, dorez and cover it with this
latter mixture; then replace it in the oven
and finish baking. As soon as it is done,
take it out and cut it into whatever forms
your fancy may dictate.
BISCUITS, MARBLED. Make twen-
ty-four eggs, a pound of powder-sugar, and
three-quarters of a pound of dried and sifted
flour, into a biscuit paste, as directed for
Spoon Biscuits; then beat four ounces
of dissolved chocolate in an earthen pan,
and add to it a third of the paste; when it
is well mixed, divide it in half, and to one
half mix a quarter of the biscuit-paste, which
will tinge that portion a light chocolate col-
or. After this, mix together some vegeta-
ble red and infusion of saffron to color half
the remaining paste orange; then divide
that again, and mix the last quarter with
half the orange-color, thus your paste will
be colored with two shades of chocolate
and two of orange.
Make two paper cases, each eight inch-
es square and three high, pour into one of
these a large spoonful of the chocolate-
paste, and when it has spread over the bot-
tom of the case, pour in one of the orange-
colored, on which another of the chocolate,
and so on, alternately, until the case is half
full; then sprinkle it with flour, and put it
into a slow oven for three-quarters of an
hour. Put the remainder of your biscuit-
paste (both colors) mto a pan and stir them
together with a spoon till the whole is
veined, or clouded with the two colors; pour
it into the other ease* sprinkle it with flour
and bake like the former; wheu quite cold,
cut them into slices about two incites thick,
half of which should lie broken, and the other
half cut in pieces of an equal size, lay them
on a baking-plate, and dry them in the oven.
These are generally used to make the rocks
in ornamental pastry, and may be colored
with the usual materials, according to your
fancy.
BISCUITS, MARCHPANE. Beat a
pound of sweet almonds to a very fine
paste, moisten them with water, then put
them and a pound of powder-sugar into a
saucepan, over a clear but not fierce char-
coal fire, stirring constantly, till the paste
leaves adhere together; put it on a floured
slab, and work it well with your hands for
some time, then roll small pieces of it about
three inches long and half the thickness of
your little finger, join the ends of each and
make them mto round rings, lay them on a
sieve in a dry warm place for two or three
days,, When wanted, mix some powder-
sugar with the whites of eight eggs, and
beat them with a wooden spoon in each
hand; add a cup of orange-flower water.
Put your rings into this icing, and cover
them completely; lay them on a sheet of
paper and bake in a slow oven until the
icing sets and they begin to change color.
Do not remove them from the paper till cold.
BISCUITS, MILLEFRUIT. Take
preserved orange and lemon-peel, a quar-
ter of a pound of each, six ounces of angel-
ica, the same of sweet, and one ounce of
bitter almonds; cut all die above ingredients
into pieces half an inch long and a quarter
wide. Make an icing with white of eggs,
sugar and orange-flower water; put the al-
monds, &c. into this, and having paper on
your baking-tin, lay the cakes on it, of
whatever size you please; then with a hair
pencil touch them here and there with a
little cochineal. Bake them, but not in too
hot an oven.
BISCUITS, MONKEY. Take the
weight of six eggs in powder-sugar, and
mix it with the yolks and a little pounded
cinuamon; whtsk the whites to a firm froth,
and stir them lightly into the yolks; add
four whole eggs, and their weight of dry
sifted flour, mix them well together; take
this mixture in a spoon, and lay it in about
the size of a half-crown piece on paper,
join two together with the spoon, and when
your paper is full, sprinkle powder-sugar
over and bake them; a few minutes will do
them. Remove them from the paper while
hot and put the two undersides together.
BISCUITS, PRINCESS AMELIA.
Put the whites of twelve eggs into an earth-
en pan, whisk them to a thick snow, and
add to them eight ounces of double refined
sugar, pounded and sifted; having mixed
them, put in three ounces of flour, and three
of powder-sugar sifted, the grated rind of
one or two lemons and half a coftee cup of
orange-flower water, stir them well with a
wooden spoon, but take care not to spoil the
snow: drop them on paper of a larger stze
than the sweet biscuits, and bake them to
a clear brown in a moderate oven. Take
them from the paper while hot.
BISCUITS, SAVOY. Whip twelve
whites of eggs to a snow; beat the yolks
with a pound and a quarter of powder-sugar,
mix them together, with three-quarters of a
pound of flour and the grated rind of a lem-
on, into a paste, rub your mould with melted
butter, and bake it.


BIS
B I S
264
BISCUITS, LARGE SAVOY. Take
fifiv-six eggs, four lxnmds of stigar, the zes-
tea.itf fonr oranges, a pound and three-quar-
tets of |xttatoe-llour sifted; and make your
biscuit as follows: prate I he zestes of the
oranges on a piece of sugar, and us soon as
it becomes colored, sera|x: it off, and grate
again until all the zeste is done, then dry
the sugar lxirfectly, crush and sift it.
Break your eggs one by one, (takmg care
that all are petiectly fresh;) put the yolks
and whites into separate vessels; mix half
your sugar with the former, stirring it in
with a spatula until perfectly smooth, then
add the remainder, and work it well for
twentv mimltes. Whip die whites ttll quite
firm, putting in a small quantity of pounded
alum; when sufficiently whipped, which
may lie known by little points rising when
the whisk is taken out; mix a little with
the yolks; still, however, keeping the whites
stirring; then lieur the yolks on them very
gently mixing them together as you pour,
with the whisk: sift over the whole a pound
of potatoe-flour, stirring the mixture all the
time; when ready to put into the mould,
your paste should be very smooth, and some-
what of the consistence of treacle. Butter
the mould, and put in a few spoonfuls of
your paste at first, to prevent any globules
of air appearing on the top when baked;
pour in the remainder carefully- Cover a
baking-plate with hot ashes, lay the mould
in the midst of them, and place it in a mod-
erate oven; keep it open for an hour, that
the biscuit may be watched, and if it takes
color too quickly, cover it with paper. In
three hours time take it from the oven, and
if it be of a good color, and firm, turn it on
a baking-tin, tie round it a band of double
paper, and replace it in the oven for a quar-
ter of an hour to dry.
IBID, WITH ALMONDS. The in-
gredients for this biscuit are the same as
above, with the addition of four eggs, and
half a pound of bitter almonds: blanch the
almonds, then wash, drain, and dry them in
a napkin; pound them with whites of eggs
in the usual way, to a fine paste, pass it
through a sieve, and then mix it with the
additional eggs; add this to tbe sugar and
yolks, and proceed as above.
BISCUITS, SPICE. Take three
pounds of flour, three pounds of almonds, cut
in half, three ounces of cinnamon and mace
pounded, and one pound of powder-sugar;
mtx them all together on your slab; boil
three pounds of Lisbon sugar wtth some wa-
ter; make the above ingredients into a paste
with this, and roll it to the size of a large
rolling-pin; lay it on a sheet of ptper, flat
it down a little with your hand, keeping it
higher in the middle than at the ends; put
it into a very hot oven; when done, take it
out, and while hot, cut it across, in slices au
eighth of an inch thick, and dry them.
BISCUITS, FINE SPONGE. Bre:ik
twelve eggs, separate the yolks and whites;
to the former put three quarters of a pound
of powder-sugar, stir them well with a wood-
en spoon, till it rises in large bladders;
whisk the whites to a very firm froth, and
then mix them very lightly with the*yolks
and sugar, and when incorporated, add ten
ounces of fine dried and sifted flour. Stir
them all together well, and pour the mix-
ture into well-buttered tin moulds, sift sugar
over, and bake them in a moderate oven.
Take them from the tins while hot.
BISCUITS, SPOON. Break four eggs,
put the yolks and whites into separate
basins; add to the former a quarter of a
pound of powder-sugar; having grated on
it the zeste of a lemon, mix these together
well with a spatula for ten minutes; then
whip the whites to a froth, and put about
hall' of them to the yolks, and wlten that is
well mixed in, add the rest; stir it very
lightly, and lay them w ith a spoon on paper,
make them about three inches long, and the
breadth of a finger. Glaze them with pow-
der-sugar, and place them on baking tins,
add, as the sugar dissolves, and they shine,
put the biscuits into a moderate oven, which
-must be kept open for seven or eight minutes
then close it until your biscuits are of a pro-
per color. When cold, detach them from
the palier with a thin knife-blade, and lay
them by, in couples, the glazed sides out-
wards, till wanted
BISCUITS, SWEET. Take half a
pound of fine pounded sugar, and sift it
through a tammy. Put the whites of twelve
eggs into a preserving-pan, and the yolka
into an earthenware tureen; whip the whites
to a snow, and then carefully pour on it the
yolks and sugar; stir them gently; place
your pan over a chafing-dish; continue
whipping the whole for a full half hour, and
then, if the drop which falls from the whisk
lays a little while without spreading, take it
from the fire, and whisk again till it is cold;
then add half a pound of fine sifted flour, stir
it in gently with a wooden spoon. Drop
them on paper, sift sugar over, and bake
them in a warm oven until of a deep yellow;
take them from the papers while warm;
bake them as soon as possible after they are
dropt on paper.
BISCUITS, SWEETiMEAT. Cut
some Naples biscuits into pieces about an
inch thick, and an inch and a half suua,e.


BLA 265 BOU
and just crisp them in the oven. Make some
icing with whites of eggs, sugar, and orange-
flower water; dip one side of the biscuit
into it; cut some preserved lemon and
orange-peel and angelica into small pieces;
strew them over the biscuits, and dry the
icing in the oven.
BISCUITS, TOAD-IN-A-HOLE.
Beat a pound of sweet, and an ounce and a
half of bitter almonds to a fine smooth paste,
moisten with water, and mix the paste,
which should not be too thin, with a pound
and a quarter of white sugar. Lay a sheet
of writing-paper on your baking-plate, and
wafer-paper on that; lay the biscuits about
the size of a half-crown piece; put a dried
cherry in the middle of each; sift sugar over
and bake them in a moderate oven. When
done, cut the wafer-paper round, but do not
take it away.
BLACKBERRY WINE. Put full ripe
blackberries into a large vessel with a cock
in it, pour on as much boiling water as
will cover them, and as soon as the heat
will permit, bruise them well with the hand
till all the berries aie broken; cover them,
and in about three or four days, when the ber-
ries rise to the top, draw off the clear part
into another vessel; add to every ten quarts
of the ltquor one pound of sugar, stir it well
in, and let it stand a week or ten days tn
work. Draw it off through ajelly-bag. Steep.
four ounces of isinglass in a pint of sweet
wine for twelve hours, then boil it slowly
till dissolved, put it in a gallon of the black-
berry juice, boil them together and then
put a" .'tgether; let it stand a few days, and
bottle
BLANC-MANGE, DUTCH. Put a
pint of cleared calf's-foot jelly into a stew-
pan; mix with it the yolks ot' six eggs, set
it over a fire, and whisk till it begins to
boil; then set the pan in cold water, and stir
the mixture till nearly cold, to prevent it
from curdling, and when it begins to thicken
fill the moulds.
BLANC-MANGE, FRENCH. Blanch
one pound of sweet, and a score of bitter
almonds: diain them on a sieve, and after-
wards dry them, by rubbing them in a nap-
kin; pound theu, in a mortar, continually
moistening thcm with half a tea-spoonful of
water at a time, to prevent their oiling.
When they are pounded as fine as possible,
take them out of the mortar, and put them
into a pan; then with a silver spoon, beat
np your almonds gradually, with live glasses
of liltered water; after this, spread a napkin
over an oval dish, and put your almonds
upon it; then gather up the corners of your
napkin, and wring it very tight, to press out
all the milk from the almonds; then put
into this milk, twelve ounces of crystallized
sugar, broken into small pieces; when the
sugar is dissolved, pass the whole through a
napkin; and then add to it one ounce of
clarified isinglass, rather warmer than luke-
warm; and when the whole is well incorpo-
rated together, pour it into your mould.
Your mould should be previously put into
ten pounds of pounded ice; w hen your blanc-
mange is ready to serve, (which will be in .
two hours after it has been put into the
mould,) you must take it out of the mould
according to the rule prescribed in Violet
Jelly.
BLANC-MANGE WITH FRUIT.
Boil an ounce and a half of isinglass, and
when quite dissolved, strain it. Let it cool
for half an hour, skim, and pour it free from
sediment into another pan; then whisk with
it a table-spoonful of cedrat, and half a
pound of currant jelly, strawberry, or rasp-
berry jam; and when it begins to jelly, fill
the moulds.
BLANC-MANGE, wtthout etther
Istnglass or Ictng. Prepare your
almonds in the same manuer as in the re-
ceipt lor Blane-mange d la Francaise, but
only using hall the quantity specified in that
receipt, and likewise leaving out the isinglass.
Then put into a pan the whites of four eggs,
and whip them till they begin to whiten,
then add your blane-mange, and place your
pan over hot ashes, and continue to whip
your preparation until the egg is thoroughly
mixed with the almonds, and the whole be-
gins to turn to a thick cream; and when it
is of a proper consistence, pour into little
cups, and serve it either hot or cold.
When you wish to serve this entremet
in little cups, and of any flavor you please,
you must only make use of two-thirds of the
quantity of almonds, named in the receipt
for Blane-mange French.
BOUCHEES DE DAMES. Mix with
six eggs, a quarter of a pound of sugar,
three ounces of potato-flour, a little salt,
and a pinch of dried orange-flowers: lieat
them together well, and havmg buttered a
tin, lay your paste on it, and bake it in a
gentle oven for a quarter of an hour; when
done, cut it in pieces, about the size of a
crown piece, and glaze them, mask them
according to your pleasure, and dry them
in the oven.
, BOUCHEES PETITES, GLACEES.
Roll some puff paste to about the eighth of
an inch in thickness, and wtth a plain round
paste-cutter, of two inches diameter, cut out


BOU
BUT
266
as many cakes as you may require; then
with a smaller cutter, take out the middle
of half the number, so as to make rings of
them; moisten the edges of the former, and
lay the rings on them; wet them also as
you lay them down, sprinkle them lightly
with powder sugar, and buke them in a
brisk oven. These bouchees require great
atteution in baking, as the sugar is apt to
dissolve and color too quickly; when done,
they should be of a reddish tinge. Fill
them with swealmeats, preserves, or whip-
ped cream, according to fancy.
BOUCHEESDE MONSIEUR. Pound
a stick of vanilla with two ounces of pow-
der-sugar, and then sift it; mix with it
seven additional ounces of dry powder-su-
gar, and half a pound of sifted flour; add to
this the whites of four eggs, whipped firm,
and work them together till the paste is
very smooth and soft. Heat two copper-
plates, rub them over with wax, and then
wipe them; when cold, lay the paste with
a knife, in pieces about the size of a filbert,
shaded quite round, leave three-quarters of
an inch space between each; when the
plates are full, put them on stools in an oven,
eo that they can receive no heat from below,
then put a stove with hot coals on the top
of the oven, and let them remain in this
state for twenty-four hours; then put them
for fifteen or tweuty minutes iuto a mode-
rate oven. Take them from the plates
whilst hot, and as soon as cold, finish them
in the same way as bouchees de dames;
glaze them with chocolate, a la rose, with
pistachios, orange, cedrat, &c. &c. They
may also be masked with sugar, pistachios,
currauts, &c.
BOUCHEES PETITES, MERIN-
GUES AUXPISTACHES. Make them
the same as above, strew sugar over with-
out wetting the rings, and bake them to a
light color in a moderate oven. Then mix
a quarter of a pound of powder-sugar with
three whites of eggs, well whipped, and
mask the bouchees lightly with it, and
glaze them with sugar; having ready a
quarter of a pound of pistachio-nuts blanch-
ed, and each cut across sloping; place these
pieces round the edge of the bouchees like
a crown; and each piece of the pistachios
being placed on the cut side, they stand out
from the edge of the bouchee: this process
being finished, put them in the oven again a
few minutes, to color the egg; and in the
meautime stir up the white of egg which
remains, and make with it half as many
meringuees as you have bouchees, sprin-
kle them with sugar, and color both sides
of them in a slow oven; and when the bou-
chees are ready for table, fill them with
whipped cream, with pistachios, and covet
each with half a meringue.
BOUCHEES PETITES, PERLEES.
Your bouchees lieing made and baked as
above, whip the whites of two eggs to a
firm froth, and mix them with four spoon-
fuls of sifted sugar, and when very smooth,
mask your bouchees with it: then take
some white of egg, and with the poiut of a
knife, drop them in pearls about the size of
a grape-stone, round each bouchee, half an
inch apart, sprinkle them lightly with sugar,
and dry the egg in the oven, taking care
tney do not lose their whiteness.
When cold, place between each pearl a
smaller one of red-curraut jelly. Fill your
bouchees with apricot marmalade, apple-
jelly, &c.; if, however, the jelly, or what-
ever else you may use, be of a red color,
your iutermediate pearls should be composed
of light-colored preserve, such as apricot
marmalade, &c. These should be pearled
a few at a time only.
BOUCHEES PETITES, PRALI-
NEES. Having prepared the bouchees as
usual, dorez and bake them in a moderate
oven; when they are of the proper color,
mask them with whites of eggs mixed with
sugar, and almonds minced very small; re-
place them in the oven a minute or two,
and then strgw red, or any other colored
sugar on them, but not so thick as to cover
the almonds eutirely. Fill the bouchees
as usual.
BOUCHEES PETITES, a la
Reine. The same as alwve, only the
paste must be cut thicker, and before you
dorez, let them stand a few minutes. Bake
in a brisk oven.
BUCKTHORN, SIRUP OF. (1) Gath-
er the berries in the heal of the day, and set
in an earthen vessel in the oven; squeeze out
the juice, and for each peck of berries put
two pounds of white sugar, and boil them
together a quarter of an hour; let it cool,
and then bottle it.
BUCKTHORN, SIRUP OF. (2) Take
three quarts of the juice of clarified buck-
thorn berries, and four pounds of brown
sugar; make them iuto a sirup over a geutle
fire, and while warm, mix with it a drachm
of the distilled oil of cloves, dissolved on a
lump of sugar. The true buckthorn may be
known by the number of its seeds, having
four, the alder buckthorn has only two, and
the cherry buckthorn one seed. The for-
mer is to be used.
BUTTER, BLACK. Tkm pounds of


CAR
CAR
268
h is dissipated durmg the preparation of
the sirup. To preserve then the odour of
the capillaire, when your sirup is sufficient-
ly done, pour it, whilst boiling, upon some
fresh captllaire coarsely chnplied up; then
cover your vessel, and let it stand until it
is quite cold, then pass it through a bolting-
cloth to separate it from the leaves of the
capillaire.
Take one ounce of the capillaire from
Canada; put it into a glazed pan, pour upon
tt four pints of boiling water, leave it to in-
fuse for twelve hours over some warm ashes;
strain it and let it run into a vessel, it will
give you a strong tincture of capillaire;
melt in this tincture four pounds of sugar,
put- the whole into a preserving-pan, and
put it on the fire, and clarify it with the
white of an egg, continue the cooking; when
your sirup is perle, put some fresh capil-
laire, chopped, into a pan, and pour your
sirup, whilst boiling, upon it; cover your
pan carefully, and let it cool; when your
sirup is cold, you may flavor it if you please.
Put it into bottles, and cork them hermeti-
cally.
CAPILLAIRE, SIRUP OF. (2) Take
some good capillaire, chop it up, not very
small, put it upon a sieve; pour upon it
some boiling water, and then let it infuse
for ten hours in a vessel well covered; strain
this infusion, and put into it some sugar
boiled au casse; clarify this sirup with the
whites of eggs whipped; skim it till it is
very clear; when it rises, take it off the
fire, and leave it to cool, then put it into
bottles.
Viard and Beauvilliers, whose receipts
are nearly the same, boil their capillaire for
a quarter of an hour in river-water; after
having passed this boiling through a sieve,
they put into it some powder-sugar, and
clarify their sirup with water, or a whole
egg beaten up; then skim it, and when it is
very clear and has boiled au /we, they
take it off the fire, and put into it some
orange-flower water, and strain it through
a napkin or straining-bag, leaving it to
cool before putting it into bottles.
For three pints and a half of sirup, you
must use two good ounces of capillaire, four
pints of water, and four pounds of sugar,
powder-sugar is the best, as it prevents sir-
ups from candying.
CARAMEL. Break into a small copper
or brass pan one pound of refined sugar;
put in a gill of spring-water; set it on a
fire; when it boils skim it quite clean, and
let it boll quick, till it comes to the degree
called crack; which may be known by dip-
ping a tea-spoon or skewer into the sugar,
and letting it drop to the bottom of a pan
of cold water; and if it remains hard, tt has
attained that degree: squeeze in the juice
of half a lemon, and let it remain one min-
ute longer on the fire; then set the pan into
another of cold water: have ready moulds
of any shape; rub them over wtth sweet
oil; dip a spoon or fork into the sugar, and
throw it over the mould in fine threads, till
it is quite covered: make a small handle of
caramel, or stick on two or three small gum
paste rings, by way of ornament, and place
it over small pastry of any description.
CARAMEL CONSERVE. Clarify the
quantity of sugar you may require, and boil
ft to caramel; have ready some cases of
double paper; pour in your sugar to the
.thickness of half an inch, and trace on its
surface the forms you wish it to have; when
cold, break it according to those marks.
This conserve may be colored and flavored
according to the fancy.
CARAMEL COVER FOR SWEET-
MEATS. Dissolve eight ounces of double-
refined sugar in three or four spoonfuls of
water, and three or four drops of lemon-
juice; then put it into a copper untinued
skillet; when it boils to be thick, dip the
handle of a spoon in it, and put that into a
pint basin of water, squeeze the sugar from
the spoon into it, and so on till you have all
the sugar. Take a bit out of the water,
and if it snaps and is brittle when cold, it is
done enough; but only let it be three parts
cold, then pour the water from the sugar,
and having a copper mould oiled well, run
the sugar on it, in the manuer of a maze,
and when cold you may put it on the dish it
is to cover; but if, on trial, the sugar is not
brittle, pour off the water, and return it in-
to the skillet, and boil it again. It should
look thick like treacle, but of a bright ltght
gold color. It makes a most elegant cover.
CARDAMUM COMFITS. Procure
your cardamums at the chemists, and they
will be in a shell; put them into the oven to
dry the skins, and they will break; pick all
the seeds from them, put the seeds into a
large comfit-pan, and have a fire under the
same as for others; mix your gum, starch,
and sirup, and finish them the same as cara-
way comfits.
CARAWAY CAKE. Dry a quarter
of a peck of fine flour in an oven; rub a
pound and a half of fresh butter in it, till it
is crumbled so small that none of it is to be
seen; then take six spoonfuls of rose water,
half a pint of canary, half a pint of cream,
and three-quarters of a pint of new ale yeast,
an.l the whites of two, and yolks of four
eggs; mix all these well together, let' it li«


CAS
CH A
269
before the fire, and when you make it up
put in a pound and a half of Naples biscuits,
and three-quarters of a pound of caraway-
comfits. Bake it.
CARAWAY COMFITS. Take some
fine caraway seeds, sift all the dust from
them, and have a large copper preserving-
Ean, about two feet wide, and with two
andles and two pieces of iron made as a
ring on each side; then you must have a
pulley fixed to the beam, and a cord with a
hook to each end, so as to fix it at each
side of the pan to let it sling; then have
some fine starch as white as you can get,
and just soften it, boil some sirup a quarter
of an hour, and mix it with the starch;
take some gum arabic, put it into some
water, then put that into another pan, and
make it just warm; have an iron-pot with
charcoal fire under the large pan, but not
too hot, only just to keep the pan warm;
have a large tub to put your pot of fire at
bottom, *ud your large pan must be on the
top; put the caraway seeds into your pan;
add a large ladleful of gum arable, rub them
with your hands until you find they are all
dry, then put a ladleful of starch and sirup,
and do the same over your pan of fire, until
ynu find they are all dry; put the gum only
three or four times to them at first, then tlte
starch and sugar, but boil your sirup more
as you find they come to coat with it, and
not so much starch; when you have dried
them seven or eight times, put them into
your sieve; put them into the stove, do
them the next day, and so, successively, for
six or seven days.
CARAWAY DRAGEES. Take any
quantity of caraway seeds you think proper,
put them into a preserving-pan, and when
quite warm, put in clarified sugar, a little
at a time, stirring it occasionally, till of the
size you wish; then proceed as directed for
Almond Dragees.
CASSIA CANDIED. Pound a little
musk and ambergris with as much of the
powder of cassia as will lie on two shil-
lings. Having pounded them well together,
take a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, and
as much water as will wet it, and boil it to
a candy height, then put in your powder
and mix well together. Butter some pew-
ter saucers, and when it is cold turn it out.
CASSIA RATAFIA OF. Take a
pound of cassia, half a pound of bitter
cherries, a imatler of a pound of cassia
leaves, and half a drachm of cinuamon;
bruise the two first, cut up the leaves, and
pound the cinuamon, infuse these ingredi-
ents in three quarts of brandy for three
weeks. Dissolve two pounds of sugar in a
quart of water, and mix with the liqueur,
and let it stand some time longer, then
strain and bottle it. Cork it up close.
CEDRATS, BLANCMANGE OF
Grate the rind of a cedrat upon some sugar
in the usual way, until six ounces of sugar
have been used; blanch and pound a pound
of sweet almonds, moistening them with
water; when perfectly smooth, dilute them
with five glasses of water put in by degrees;
then pour them in a napkin, and squeezing
it, express the milk of almonds from thom;
divide this into two equal parts, with one
of which mix the six ounces of sugar with
the cedrat, and with the other portion, mix
the same quantity of plain sugar; as soon
as both are dissolved, strain them, and put
in each half an ounce of isinglass: your
mould being placed in ice, pour into it the
white blancmange to three-quarters of an
inch in depth; as soon as that is set, pour
in an equal quantity of the other, which
ought to be of a clear yellow; when that
also is set, pour in some white, and so on
alternately, till the mould is full. Turn out
the blancmange as directed in Blancmange.
French. *
- CEDRAT, CONSERVE OF. Grate
the rind of a cedrat all round, until the juice
is ready to ooze out; this must be done by
rubbing it against a large piece of sugar,
(about a pound;) remove the surface of
this sugar, to which the grated rind adheres,
with a knife, and squeeze to it half die juice
of the cedrat. Dissolve the remainder of
the sugar to the degree grande plume,
then take it from the fire, and when it has
stood a little while, put in your cedrat', stir-
ring it with a spoon, until a sort of ice
forms on the top; yon may then pour your
conserve into moulds. Be careful not to
put it in too hot.
CEDRAT ZESTES, JELLY OF.
Take three-quarters of a pound of lump su-
gar, grate on it the zestes of two cedrats,
and, as the sugar becomes colored, scrape
it off with a knife, and grate again, and so
on until all the zeste is gone; dissolve the
scraped sugar in two glasses of water, and,
with thejuice of four lemons, pass it through
a jelly bag. Clarify the remainder of the
sugar, and then put a fourth of it into a
small preserving pan; boil it to caramel
height, to color the jelly; mix this, the
fruit, the sirup, and an ounce of isinglass
together, and fmish in the usual way.
CIIANTILLY BASKET. Dip some
ratafia cakes into clarified sugar boiled to
caramel height; place them round the in>


CHE
CHK
270
tide of a dish; then cut more ratafia cakes
into squares, dip them also into sugar, and
pile them corner-ways on the row, and so
on for two or three stories high. Line the
inside with wafer-paper, and fill it with
sponge biscuit, sweetmeats, blanched al-
monds, or some made cream; put trifle
over that, and garnish the froth with rose-
leaves, colored comfits, or caramel sugar
thrown lightly over the top.
CHERRIES IN BRANDY. Choose
the finest and ripest cherries, leave on half
the stalks, and put them into very cold wa-
ter. In about half an hour take them out,
and drain them on a sieve; weigh them,
and to every pound of fruit, allow a quarter
of a pound of sugar; when you have clarified
and boiled it to grand perle, put in the
fruit, boil them up two or three times, stir-
ring them gently with a skimmer; then take
them from the fire carefully, and put the
cherries into bottles or glass jars; when
filled, add to each twelve cloves and half an
ounce of cinuamon tied in a linen bag. Put
to the sugar, when nearly cold, brandy (in
the proportion of a pint and a half to a
pound of fruit); mix them together well,
and pour them on the cherries. In two
months time taste them, and if sufficiently
flavored, take out the cloves and cinuamon.
Cover the jars or bottles close.
CHERRIES, TO CANDY. The fruit
must be gathered before it is ripe; prick
and stone them; boil clarified sugar, and
pour it over them.
CHERRY ICE. Take the stones and
stalks from two pounds of ripe cherries,
bruise, and set them on the fire with a little
water, and half a pound of sugar. When
they have boiled, pass them through a hair
sieve into an earthen pan. Pound a handful
% of the kernels, put them in a basin with the
juice of two lemons. Add to the cherries a
pound of sugar au petit Usee, and strain on
them the lemon-juice and kernels; mix the
whole together, and put it in a sabotiere,
with pounded ice. Work the cherries up
with it well, until it has set, then place it in
glasses.
stone and tail; and then put them on a
gentle fire, and keep stirring them ttll re-
duced to half. Clarify and boil your sugar
to petit casse, then add the fruit to it, and
stir it until you can see the bottom of the
pan; the marmalade is then sufficiently done,
and may be put into pots.
CHERRY MARCHPANE. Take three
pounds of sweet almonds, two and a half
of sugar, and a pound of cherries; pound
the almonds to a paste, and mix it with the
sugar, boiled to petit bottle; then having
stoned, well bruised, and squeezed out the
juice of the cherries, add it to the rest, stir
it well, place it on hot ashes, stirring con-
stantly until the paste is properly done;
then finish it in the usual way, (See
Marchpane.) Strawberries, raspber-
ries, currants, or any other fruit may be
used in the same way.
CHERRY RATAFIA. Crush ten
pounds of cherries, and put them irTto a jar
with a quart of brandy; cover the jar close,
and infuse the cherries for five or six days;
at the end of that time put the fruit into a
cloth, and press the juice out through. Boil
five pounds of fine currants, with three pounds
of sugar, and press out the juice as you did
that of the cherries; mix the two juices,
measure them, and for every pint allow a
pint of brandy. Add, a pound of the kernels
of the cherry-stones, half a pound of corian-
der, a little mace, some cloves and cinua-
mon, all well pounded, put them into a jar,
and pour the liquor over them; cover it
close and let it infuse fur six weeks, after
which, pass the whole through a jelly-bag,
and bottle it; cork it carefully.
CHERRIES, SIRUP OF. The best
cherries fur this purpose are the black sour
ones; take out the stones and express the
juice into an earthen pan, where it must
stand in a cool place for twenty-four hours
to clear: at the end of that time pour the
juice gently into a pan, and add to it, for
each pound of juice, two pounds of crushed
sugar, and two drachms of cinuamon, pre-
viously infused in a glass of water, wrap the
cinuamon in a piece of linen, and put it with
the water into your pan; boil all together
for half an hour, skimming it carefully.
When sufficiently done take out the cinua-
mon; strain the sirup till quite clear, and
when cold bottle it.
CHESTNUTS IN CARAMEL. (1)
Roast chestnuts as for the table; take oft
the skins; dip each in the whites of eggs
beaten, and then roll them in powder-sugar;
lay them separately on paper to dry, m a
moderate oven; they may be cut into dif-
CHERRY ICE CREAM. Take half a
pound of preserved cherries, pound them,
stones and all; put them into a basin, with
one gill of sirup, the juice of a lemon, and a
pint of cream, pass tt through a sieve, and
freeze it according to custom.
CHERRY MARMALADE. Choose
the ripest, largest, best red colored cherries,
you can meet with, and take of them double
the weight of the sugar you intend to use;


CHE
CHO
271
fere ut forms if you think proper, and glazed
either white or brown.
CHESTNUTS IN CARAMEL. (2)
Cut some osier rods or reeds into pieces
about two or three inches long, and on the
point of each put a roasted and skinued
chestnut. Take a piece of very fresh but-
ter, (about the size of a nut), and rub it
with the palm of the hand, on an iron plate
or marble slab, taking care to rub every
part well. Then having boiled some clari-
fied sugar to caramel height; take a piece
of the osier, with a chestnut on the end, in
each hand, and dip them in the sugar, twist-
ing them round repeatedly, that the sugar
may adhere equally about the chestnut till
it begins to cool, then lay them on the but-
tered slab, and dip in two more, proceed-
ing as above; when all are done and cold,
take out the osier twigs, and wrap each
chestnut in paper, with a device if you
think proper. These chestnuts make a de-
licious sweetmeat, but they should be eaten
the day on which they are made.
CHESTNUT COMPOTE. (1) Take
the outer skin from about a hundred
chestnuts, and then put them into a sauce-
pan with water, a lemon cut in pieces, and
three handfuls of bran; put them on the fire
and blanch them: as soon as a pin will go
into them easily, they are sufficiently done;
rubyoff the second skin, and throw them
into cold water, with the juice of a lemon.
Clarify and boil a pound and a half of sugar
to petit lisset and having drained your
chestnuts, put them into the sugar with the
juice of a lemon, the quarter of a glass of
orange-flower water; put these on the fire
for a short time, but not to let them boil:
then take them off and set them by. The
next day drain the chestnuts, and boil up
the sirup four times; then add more sugar,
and having boiled it to souffle, put in the
chestnuts; blanch them instantly afterwards,
and put them into compotiers.
CHESTNUT COMPOTE. (2) Roast
your chestnuts as for the dessert, and
when they are peeled and skinued, put them
into a saucepan, with a quarter of a pound
of sugar, and half a glass of water; let
them simmer for a quarter of an hour;
squeeze m a little lemon-juice, and when
ready to serve, strew powder-sugar over
them.
CHESTNUT CREAM. (1) Pound
twenty-five roasted chestnuts in a mortar,
with a little milk t then put the paste so made
into a stewpan, with the yolks of two eggs,
half a pint of milk, two ounces of butter, and
four ounces of powder-sugar; when it has
boiled a little while, stram tt, put tt mto
a dish, or glass for table, and let it cool.
CHESTNUT CREAM. (2) Roast, and
then pound a quarter of a hundred of chest-
nuts, with a small quantity of milk; to this
add the yolks of two eggs, a pint of milk,
a quarter of a pound of powder-sugat, and
about an ounce of butter. Boil these to-
gether for some minutes, then strain it, and
set it by to cool.
CHESTNUT CUSTARD. Takethree
pounds of well roasted chestnuts, removing
such parts as were colored by the fire, and
pound them with a pound of fresh butter;
when a smooth paste, add three-quarters of
a pound of powder-sugar, the yolks of
twelve eggs, a pinch of salt, and a few
spoonfuls of whipped cream, the whites
whipped firm, and finish the custard as di-
rected.
CHESTNUT PASTE. Make a mar-
malade by boiling chestnuts in water, and
rubbing them through a sieve, then pound
them, and to three-quarters of a pound of
this, add a quarter of a pound of any other
fruit marmalade; mix them well up with an
equal weight of sugar boiled to grand
plume; put it into your moulds and bake tt
as cherry, or any other paste.
CHINESE TEMPLE. Having boiled
an ounce of double-refined sugar, with half
an ounce of butter, and a little water, set it
by till cold, and then add to it an egg well
beaten. With this, make four ounces of
flour into a very stiff paste; roll it out as
thin as possible, and lay it in a set of tins
the form of a temple, and bake them in a
slow oven. When cold, take the paste
from the tins, and join each piece together
according to the proper forms, with isin-
glass and water. The lower part, of
course, ought to be stronger than the top,
in order that it may sustam the weight of
the whole. The pieces also must be cut
as exact as possible to the shape of too
tins.
CHOCOLATE ALMONDS. Take a
pound of chocolate finely grated, and a
pound and a half of the best sugar, finety
sifted; soak some gum-dragon in orange-
flower water, and work them into what
form you please; the paste must be stiff;
dry them in a stove. You may write de-
vices on paper, roll them up, and put them
in the middle.
CHOCOLATE BONBONS. Put a
quarter of a pound of chocolate over a fire,
to dissolve it; and having boiled two pound*
23*


CHO
CHO
272
are covered with the sugar nonpareils; let
them stand till cold, and they will come off
well, and then put them in a box papered.
CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM. (1)
Take any quantity of chocolate, melt it over
the ftre in a small pan; when melted pour
it into that in which you are to make your
cream; break your yolks of eggs into it,
(four eggs to every pmt of cream) add some
pounded loaf sugar to it, keep stirring con-
tinually; then add your cream by little and
little, stirring and turning it till the whole
is mixed properly together; then set your
pan over the fire, and keep stirring wtth a
wooden spoon tlll you see your composition
is near boiling, then take tt off immediate-
ly, for, from the moment you set your com-
position over the fire Till that it offers to
boil, it has sufficient time to incorporate
well and thicken sufficiently, without need
of boiling; and should you let it boil, you
would risk the turning your cream into
whey, on account of the yolks of eggs, which
would do too much. Take great care
likewise your cream is fresh and sweet,
for otherwise as soon as it is warm it will
turn to curds and whey; therefore, be care-
ful, stir it continually, from the time you
set it on the fire till you take it off; then
put it in the sabotiere to make it congeal
after the usual manuer.
CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM. (2)
Dissolve the chocolate in a little water on
a slow fire; when properly done, mix it
with a pint of cream, three yolks of new
laid eggs, and about half a pound of sugar.
CHOCOLATE ICE WATER. Take
three ounces of chocolate, warm it, and
mix with it half a gill of sirup, and half a
pint of water; mix it well, and freeze it
thick.
•f sugar to forte perlet put a spoonful or
two into the chocolate; sttr it till it forms a
thin pante, and then pour it on the sugar,
and boil both together to caramel. In the
meantime melt a little butter, skim, and
pour it off clear into a basin ; take a spoon-
ful of it, and rub it with your hand over a
marble slab or table: on this pour the choco-
late and sugar; then take two ends of a
sword-blade, (one in each hand), and press
lines an inch apart all down it; cross them
in like manuer, so as to mark the su^ar in
small squares all over; doing it as qutck as
possible, lest the sugar should cool before
you have done; then pass the sword-blade
between the marble and the sugar; lay un-
der the latter sheets of paper; and when
cold, break it mto pieces according to the
marks, and wrap each square in paper.
CHOCOLATE COMFITS. Take two
ounces of chocolate, beat it small with a
little warm water over the fire; when it is
dissolved and reduced to a paste, pour it
upon a pound of masse pain or sweet
paste, to which add some cinuamon or va-
nilla at discretion; mix the whole well to-
gether; then spread it over some wafer
shapes, and bake it in a moderate oven.
If the paste does not appear deep colored
enough, you may color it with bolus Ar-
menicum.
CHOCOLATE CONSERVE. (1) Dis-
solve two ounces of good chocolate in a
little water, put it into a skillet jvith half a
pound of sugar boiled to perle ; keep the
sugar stirring, and when it boils put the
conserve into moulds.
CHOCOLATE CONSERVE. (2) Dis-
solve a quarter of a pound of grated choco-
late in a small quantity of clarified sugar;
noil a pound of sugar to the premiere
p/ume, put your chocolate into it, stirring
it well to mtx it; serve it whilst it is warm.
CHOCOLATE DROPS. Take one
pound and a half of chocolate, put it on a
pewter sheet or plate, and put it in the
oven just to warm the chocolate; then put
it into a copper stewpan, with three-
quarters of a pound of powdered sugar;
mix it well over the fire, take it off, and
roll it in pieces the size of small marbles,
put them on white paper, and when they
are all on, take the sheet of paper by each
corner, and lift it up and down so that the
paoer may touch the table each time, and
by that means yon will see the drops come
qutte fat, about the size of a sixpence; put
some sugar nonpareils over them, and cover
all that are on the paper, then shake them
off, and you will see all the chocolate drops l
CHOCOLATE MACAROONS. Put
a quarter of a pound of chocolate on a tin-
plate over a coal fire, and when it is dis-
solved pour it on a plate; put to it a spoon-
ful or two of sweet almond paste, made as
for macaroons, stir it in well, and then pour y
it upon the remainder of the almond paste,
in which you have mixed a tea-spoonful oLr
powdered cinuamon or vanilla, or bc^|y.
beat them together well in a mortar mna- kf
them on paper, and bake them for^ir ^
quarters of an hour in a moderate - i4


CIN
CIN
273
whites of eggs, and filter it through the pa-
per. You must be careful not to take more
than two bottles from every four, except
from the cinuamon, from which you are to
take as much as you can get.
CHOCOLATE PASTILS. Take a
little chocolate, which put in a pan over the
fire to mell it; stir it with a spoon; when
ft is melted, take half a pound of loaf su-
gar, pounded in a mortar and sifted, which
dissolve in a little clear water. When that
is done, put in your chocolate; if you find
the paste too thick, add a' little water,
enough to bring it to that degree of liquidity
that you may take it up on a knife; then
take half a sheet of paper, and cover it with
little round and flat drops, which we call
pastils, of the size of a sixpence; let them
dry naturally in a cupboard; and when dry,
take them off from the paper, and put them
in boxes.
CHOCOLATE PASTIL PASTE.
Melt half an ounce of gum-dragon in a little
water till it is quite dissolved and thick;
sift it through a linen cloth, pound it in a
mortar with a quarter-part of whites of
eggs, a chocolate cake bruised, and half a
pound of fine powder-sugar, mixed by de-
grees, and adding either more or less sugar,
according as the paste is malleable; it must
be pretty firm; form it into what flowers or
designs you please, as shells, lozenges, any
kind of corn or beans, &c.
CHOCOLATE PETIT PAINS. These
are made in the same way as Petits Pains
a la Duchesse (see that article), but with-
out the dorure. When cold fill them with
a cream pati&siere, mixed with two ounces
of vanilla chocolate, and sweetened with
sugar, flavored with vanilla; then put three
ounces of sifted sugar, the same of choco-
late, and half the white of an egg into a
pan; stir these ingredients with a silver
spoon until you have a smooth transparent
glaze, with which mask the top and sides
of the petits pains, spreading it equally
with the blade of a knife.
CHOCOLATE SWEETMEATS.
Take two ounces of chocolate, and break it
into a little warm water, put it on the fire,
and when quite dissolved, mix it with a
pound of marchpane paste, to which may be
added vanilla or cinuamon; stir it up well,
and then spread it on wafer-paper in what
forms you please, and bake them in a mod-
erate oven. If the sweetmeats be not suffi-
ciently dark colored, add a little bol-ammo-
niac.
CINNAMON CAKES. Whiak up
half a dozen eggs wtth three table-spoonfuls
of rose water; add to it a pound of sifted
sugar, a dessert-spoonful of powdered cinua-
mon, and a sufficient quantity of flour to
make it into a paste; roll it out thin, and
cut it into whatever forms your fancy may
dictate, place them on paper, and bake
them. When done, remove them from the
paper. Keep them dry.
CINNAMON CANDIED. (1) Soak cin-
namon in water for four and twenty hours,
and then cut it into pieces about an inch
long; prepare some sugar to grand liss6t
and give the cinuamon a boil in it; drain
and dry it in a stove to the proper consis-
tence; then put it in the moulds with sugar
boiled to souffle, and when half cold, dry
it. Before the candy is removed from the
moulds, they should be laid on one side for
some time. Keep them in paper in a dry
place.
CINNAMON CANDIED. (2) Cut
some cinuamon into small sticks of about an
inch or an inch and a half long; then put
them into thin sugar, and boil them as it
were in a sirup. Then take off the pan,
and set it by for five or six hours to soak,
take them out and lay them on a wire-grate,
dry them thoroughly in the stove; after-
wards put them in order in tin moulds
upon little grates made for the purpose, and
set into the moulds, so that there may be
three rows set one above another, separated
by those^rates. In the meantime, boil su-
gar till it is bloton, and pour it into your
mould, so that some of it may lie upon the
uppermost grate; then set them in the stove
with a covered fire, and let them stand all
night; the next morning take notice whether
the cinuamon be well coagulated; turn the
mould upside down, and set it in the stove
agajn, with a plate underneath; and when it
is thoroughly drained, take out your sticks
of cinuamon, loosening them, by little and
little, gently; then lay them upon a sieve,
set in the stove, and dry them thoroughly.
CINNAMON, CONSERVE OF.
Bruise four drachms of cinuamon, dilute it
with a little clarified sugar, or sirup of mal-
lows; boil two pounds of sugar to petit
casse', throw in the cinuamon, stir it well,
and then take it from the fire, and when the
sugar begins to whiten, pour the conserve
into cases or moulds, and dry it as usual.
CINNAMON, DRAGEES OR SU-
GARED. Soak a quarter of a pound of
the best cinuamon in sticks, for twelve hours
in water to soften it; at the end of that time,
cut it into slips, lay them on a sieve u a
warm place for some days. When quite


CIN
CIT
274
nard and dry, boil some fine sugar to the
degree grand perle; have ready a quantity
of fine pmvder, and proceed m the dame
manuer as in doing Almond Drageen,
until die cinuamon fticks are of the proper
thickness; those which are to be twisted or
curled, shoul I not be so thick as the others.
Re equally particular in removing the sugar,
that cakes on the Iwttom of the pan, as in
making Almond Dragees.
CINNAMON DRAGEES, COMMON.
Infuse a quatter of a pound of gum-dragon,
in as much water as will cover it; the next
day put the infusion into a mortar, and stir
it well with a pentle, and the longer it is
stirred the whiter it becomes; in rather
more than a quarter of an hour, add to it
the caked sugar which was removed from
the preserving-pan, and which must be well
pounded and silted, also a pound of powder-
sugar, a spoonful of cinuamon powder, and
by degrees I wo or three pounds of flour;
moisten the whole occasionally with water;
when the paste is of a proper consistence,
place it on die slab or pasteboard, knead it
well for a short time, roll it out in sheets,
not thicker than the eighth of an inch, and
then cut it into slips of the same size as the
cinuamon (see above,) put them on paper
or a sieve in a warm place for some days.
Then boil some common sugar to perle,
and sugar the slips of paste as above direct-
ed; instead of the fine powder, flour is suffi-
cient, until the last two layers, when the
powder may be used to give themhiteness.
When of the requisite size, lay them on
sieves to dry. In a few days there may be
curled, and colored, which is done in the
same manuer as coriander seeds. Observe,
fine sugared cinuamon is always white.
CINNAMON, ESSENCE OF. This
is made by infusing oil of cinuamon in
highly rectified spirits of wine, in the pro-
portion of half a drachm of the former to an
ounce of the latter.
CINNAMON PASTILS. Dissolve
half an ounce of gum-dragon in a glass of
water, and strain it through a lawn sieve
into a mortar, and add to it a tea-spoonful
of powdered cinuamon, and a sufficient
quantity of sifted sugar to make the paste of
a propet^consistence; form into such figures
as you may fancy, and dry them in a stove.
Keep them in a dry place.
CINNAMON SWEETMEATS. Take
a pound of marchpane paste, and dilute
it with as many whites of eggs as will
make it spread easily with a knile; add to
this, a spoonful or two of prepared bole-am-
moniac, which will give it a fine red tinge,
and half an ounce of cinuamon-powder.
When all these ingredients are well mixed,
cut some wafer-paper into such forms as you
may think proper, and lay on them the paste
about the thickness of the eighth of an inch;
place them on paper, and bake them in a
moderate oven. When done, they may be
finished in the following manuer:—Boil
some sugar in orange-flower water, to la
plume, and as you take the sweetmeats from
the oven; dip a hair-pencil into the sirup,
and brush them over; this dries almost im-
mediately, and considerably improves the
look of them.
CINNAMON WAFERS. Pound and
sift six ounces of sugar, and put it with an
equal quantity of melted fresh butter, the
same of flour, half an ounce of powdered
cinuamon, and a small egg; stir these up in
an earthenware vessel, with a sufficient
quantity of milk to make it into a thin, but
not too clear, paste. Make an iron plate
quite hot, rub it well with butter, then lay
on it a spoonful of the paste; fry it, and
when brown on both sides, roll it, still over
the hot iron, round a small stick; do this
until all the paste is used.
CINNAMONUM. Take a quarter of
a pound of cinuamon, two drachms of mace,
and one ounce of stick-liquorice; bruise
them well, and then put them into three
quarts of the best brandy; let the infusion
stand for some days before you distil it;
dissolve four pounds of sugar m three pints
and a half of water; mix this sirup with the
liqueur, and then strain them. This is
sometimes called Oil of Cinuamon.
CITRON, CANDIED. Pare the citrons
very thin and narrow, and throw them into
water; these are called faggots; then cut
the citron into slices of any thickness you
think proper; take out the inuer part with
great care, so as to leave only the white
ring, and put them with the faggots into
boiling water; when tender, drain them.
Boil a sufficient quantity of clarified sugar
to souffle; then put in the rings, and boil
them together. Take it from the fire, and
when a little cool, rub the sugar against the
side of the preserving-pan with the back of
a spoon; as soon as it becomes white, take
out the rings with a fork very carefully, one
by one, and lay them on a wire-grate to
drain: boil and proceed with the faggots in
a similar way; when taken out, cut them
into proper lengths with a pair of scissors,
and lay them also on the wire to drain.
CITRON PASTE. Cut off the ends J
of the citrons, take out the middle, with all
the seeds; boil them in some water; *ut . jft


CON
CRE
276
polling pin must likewise be rubbed with
butter, for fear it should Mtck;) when it is
warm, you may cut it into little squares, lo-
zenges, or any other shaped pastilles, and
draw a Vew strokes over lhem with a knife.
COFFEE CONSERVES. Clarify and
boil to the first degree a pound of sugar;
take the sugar off the fire, and put into it
one cup of coffee; stir it about until it comes
to the sixth degree, that the conserve may
take the sugar and dry.
COFFEE EGGS. Muke some good
strong coffee; let it rest to clear as usual,
and sweeten it with sugar according to dis-
cretion; beat up six yolks of eggs, with
about four cups of coffee, and sift it; pour
this into little moulds in the form of eggs, or
of any other, (do not fill them quite,) and
bake in a mild oven, or a Dutch one, or
with a brazing-pan; cover between two
fares. They are made after this manuer, in
the shape of any fruits or birds, if you have
proper moulds, either of copper or china,
fee.
COLTSFOOT, SIRUP OF. Take of
coltsfoot six ounces, maidenhair two ounces,
hyssop one ounce, liquorice-root one ounce;
boil them in two quarts of spring water till
one fourth is consumed; then strain it, and
put to the liquor two pounds of fine powder-
sugar; clarify it with the whites of eggs,
and boil it till it is nearly as thick as
honey.
CONSERVES, DRIED. For all sorts
of conserves, the sugar should be prepared
to the ninth degree, according to the quan-
tity wanted; they are all made much after
the same manuer, the only difference being
in the quantity of fruits proposed. Con-
serves are made with all sorts of sweetmeat
marmalade, sifted in a sieve, and soaked
pretty dry over a slow fire; use about half
a pound of the sugar thus prepared, to a
quarter of a pound of sweetmeat marmalade;
take the sugar off the fire to work them
well together; warm the whole for a mo-
ment, and pour it into paper cases made for
the purpose; when it is cool it may be cut
into cakes of what size you please.
CONSERVE OF FOUR FRUITS.
Take strawberries, currants, cherries, and
raspberries, of each a quarter of a pound,
and three pounds of sugar. Bruise your
fruit, and having strained off the juice, put
tt in a saucepan over a gentle fire, stirring
tt till reduced to half. Dissolve the sugar,
skim, and boil ij to cas&e; take it from the
fire while you put in the juice, then put it
on again, and give it one botl, take it off,
and keep stirring till the sugar bubbles, whsn
the conserve may be poured into moulds.
CONSERVES, HARD IN MOULDS.
These are made in the same manuer as
other conserves, except that they are com-
posed of sugar, and distilled aromatic wa-
ter; and may be colored like pastils.
CORIANDER DRAGEES. Take any
quantity of coriander seeds, put them in the
tossing-pan over the fire, and let them warm;
when they are warm throw in about half a
glass of vinegar, stir them well till they are
dry; have clarified sugar, which boil in an-
other pan; then when the corianders are
dry, add a little gum to them, and do the
same again till they are dry, and continue
so doing till you see the cortanders are cov-
ered to the size you want to have them;
when that is done, take the corianders out
from the pan, wash them well, and put them
in again, and stir them well till they are all
warm; then take your clarified sugar, which
you have previously boiled to the first de-
gree; when this is done, put it in an instru-
ment of copper, made on purpose for the
operation, and at the bottom of which there
is a little hole; hang it up by a packthread
string, that the sugar may fall from about a
yard height into the pan where the corian-
ders are; while the sugar falls into your pan
keep stirring well your dragees till you see
they are well pearled over, or rough and
grainy; when they are sufficiently so, take
them out, and place them in the stove to
finish drying.
CORIANDER SUGARED. These
seeds are sugared in the same manuer as
sugared almonds.
CREAM, BAIN-MARIE. Mix up
whatever ingredient of which the cream
is to be made, with eggs and sugar; for the
proportions, see the respective articles;
strain them through a fine sieve, and pour
the preparation into a mould lightly buttered
within side. Put this mould into a large
saucepan, with a sufficient quantity of boil-
ing water to reach within an inch of the
mould; place the saucepan on hot ashes,
cover it, and place hot coals on the lid;
renew the fire underneath occasionally, so
as to keep the water at the same tempera-
ture, that is, nearly, but never quite, boil-
ing for an hour and a half; then, if the
cream is properly set, which may be known
by touching it wtth your finger, and observ-
ing whether it may be easily detached from
the mould, take it from the bain-marie and
let it stand; when no more than lukewarm,
turn it out on your dish.
It sometimes happens, unavoidably, that


CUR
CUR
273
a stick of vanilla, pound tt with two
ounces of sugar, and sift both through a
silk sieve; mix it with seven ounces of
sugar, well dried and pounded, and half
a pound of fine sifted flour; then stir in the
whites of four eggs, whipped firm, and
work the whole together for some minutes.
Heat two large baking-plales of copper,
rub them over lightly with virgin wax; when
they are cold, take a spoonful of the prepa-
ration, and lay it on the plate the same as
the spoon-biscuits, taking care to lay them
three-quarters of an inch apart; when both
plates are full, place them on stools, in the
oven or stove; close the top, and lay embers
over it, so that the croquettes may be as far
removed from the fire as possible; let them
remain in this state all night; the next
morning put them into a moderate oven, and
bake them ftfteen or twenty minutes; they
should then quit the plate easily, and be of
a clear reddish color; remove them from
the plates whilst hot. The croquettes
may be flavored according to your fancy.
CURACAO. This is a species of bitter
or wild orange, of which the rind is dried,
and may be had at the druggists. To make
the liqueur called by this name, wash n
pound of curacao several times in warm
water; then, having well drained, put them
into a vessel with four quarts of brandy, and
one of water; let it stand closely covered
for a fortnight, shaking it frequently; distil
it after that in the usual way, and drain the
curacao on a sieve. Sweeten it with five
pounds and a half of sugar, dissolved in
three pints of water, mix it with the spirit
and then filter it.
CURDS AND WHEY. Take a num-
ber of the rough coats that line the gizzards
'of turkeys and fowls; cleRn them from the
pebbles they contain, rub them well with
salt, and hang them to dry. This makes a
more tender and delicate curd than common
renuet. When to he used, break off some
bits of the skin, and put on it some boiling
water; in eight or nine hours use the liquor
as you do other renuet.
CURRANT CAKES. Pick and wash
the currants, either white or red; to two
quarts of currants, put one pint of water;
when boiled, run the juice through a jelly
bag, do not press the bag; to one quart of
juice put three pounds of sugar; boil up the
juice, and strew in the sugar; pour it into
glasses, dry it in a stove till it will ♦urn out,
then dry the cakes on plates.
CURRANTS, CONSERVE OF.
Take the seeds from two pounds of red cur-
rants, and put them on the fire in a silver
pan, to dry them; then press them through
a sieve, and put them again on the fire, stiri
ring constantly until you can see the bottom
of the pan; then, having dissolved and boil-
ed three pounds of sugar to casse, pour it on
the fruit, stirring continually; in a short
time take it off, stirring it as before until it
bubbles; then pour it into moulds.
CURRANT ICES. (1) Boil two pounds
of red currants a moment with a quarter of
a pound of raspberries; rub them through a
sieve, adding a pint of water, and then the
sugar, which must be very well dissolved
before icing.
CURRANT ICES. (2) Pick some cur-
rants from their stalks, and squeeze them
through a sieve; then take clarified sugar,
boil it to a very high degree, add it to your
currant juice, and, if you choose, squeeze in
the juice of four lemons, jt will make it
more mellow; strain them through the sieve
a second time, put them in the icing pot, and
finish the same as all other ices.
CURRANT ICE CREAM. Take one
large spoonful and a half of currant jelly,
put it into a basin, with half a gill of sirup,
squeeze in one lemon and a half; add a pint
of cream and a little cochineal, then pass it
through a sieve, and freeze it according to
custom.
CURRANT WATER ICE. Take a
large spoonful and a half of currant jelly, put
it into a basin, and add to it the juice of
two lemons, half a gill of sirup, and a pint
of water: then freeze it rich.
CURRANT JELLY FRAMBOISEE.
Take seven pounds of fine ripe red currants,
three of white, and two of white raspber-
ries, press them through a very close horse-
hair steve; pour the juice on nine pounds
of double-refined sugar, broken in small
pieces, place the whole on a brisk fire, tak-
ing care to remove the scum as soon as it
appears. When the boilings follow each
other very quickly, take out the skimmer,
(which should be of copper) stir it, and let
the jelly fell from it; on quitting the skim-
mer it ought to fall like treacle. If it does
so, it is sufficiently done. This jelly should
be rose-colored; by making it entirely of
red currants and red raspberries, the color
of the jelly will be red.
CURRANT PASTE. Pick and take
the seeds from ten pounds of fine red cur-
rants, crush them, and having pressed out
the juice, strain it through a silk sieve.
Clarify and boil to casse an equal quantity
of sugar, pour the currant juice on it, act tht


DRA
DRA
279
whole over a gentle fire, stirring constantly
until it becomes of a proper consistence,
which may be known by observing when the
bottom of the pan can he seen clearly; take
it off from the fire as soon as that is the
case, and pour the paste into tin moulds,
which must be placed on slates, or copper
plates: smooth the tops with the blade of a
knife, sprinkle sifted sugar over, and piace
them in a stove, where they must remain till
next day; when the paste should be turned
in the moulds; sprinkle sifted sugar over
them again, and set them in the stove a
second night; on the following day remove
them from the moulds, lay it in boxes, with
white paper between each layer, and keep
them in a dry place. A sixth part of the
quantity of raspberries added to the currants,
would greatly improve the flavor of this
paste.
CURRANT PASTILS. Take half a
pound of pounded loaf sugar on a plate, then
a quantity of currants, which squeeze through
a sieve; when that is done, add the juice to
the sugar, till it makes a paste as clear and
thick as you think proper.
CURRANT SHRUB. To five pints of
currant juice, either red or white, one pound
and a half of loaf sugar; when dissolved,
put to it one gallon of rum or brandy; clear
tt through a flannel bag.
CURRANT SIRUP. Put five or six
pounds of red, two of white currants, and
two bottles of raspberries, into a sieve; crush
them, and press the juice through it into a
pan, and place it in a cellar to ferment; in a
week's time, pass the juice through a strain-
ing bag, and having clarified, and boiled to
fort souffle four pounds of sugar, put the
juice to it, and boil them together once;
skim, and take it from the fire. It is ne-
cessary that the currant juice should ferment,
to prevent its becoming a jelly in the bottles.
D.
DRAGEES, COMMON. The paste for
these dragees ts made in the same manuer
as for the better sort, but the materials differ
a little: thus to a quarter of a pound of the
gum, take either equal quantities of sugar
and powder, or one-third of the former to
two-thirds of the latter. When these and
'he gum are well mixed, roll out the paste
until it is as thin as the back of a knite-
blade; then take a paste-cutter, shaped like
a sugar-loaf, with the top taken oft', with the
largest end of which, cut as many pieces of
the paste as will about two-thirds fill the
cutter; press these through the smaller end
into paper cases; set them in a warm place
for several days. These kind of dragees
may, if liked, be sugared in the same man-
ner as almonds.
DRAGEES EN PASTILLAGE. These
dragee-i are made of the same materials as
the superfine dragees; the only difference
consists in their forms, which resemble the
bonbons; to make them, it is necessary to
have a number of wooden moulds, (pear-
,tree wood is the best), on which must be
stamped small squares, with various devices
engraved on them. Cut your paste into
small pieces; press each piece on a mould;
take oft' all the super-abundant paste; then
dip your finger in water, and with it remove
the paste from the mould; dry them in cases
like the other dragees.
DRAGEES, SUPERFINE. Put a
quarter of a pound of the best gum-dragon
into a pan, with a pint of cold water, cover,
and let it stand for twenty-four hours; then;
take a strong close cloth, about two feet
long, and put a part of your gum into it;
fold it three times, so as to envelope the gum;
then wrlng the cloth, by which means the
purest gum will be forced through; scrape
tt off carefully with a knife, and then proceed
in the same way, until all the gum be strain-
ed; put it into a marble mortar, and stir it
about with a pestle for half an hour; then
add to it a pound of double-refined sifted
sugar; mix them together well, until it be-
comes a stiff paste; divide this into five
parts, four of which must lie tinged as fol-
lows: red, blue, yellow, and green, (the fifth
left white), with the usual coloring materials.
Before, however, they are colored, add to
each piece, a pound and a half of double-
refined sugar, sifted, dipping the paste in
water occasionally, to enable it to receive
the additional quantity of sugar. When you
mix in the coloring materials, add also a
corresponding |ierftune: as, to the red, rose-
water, and a few drops of essence of roses;
to the blue, oil of violets; to the yellow, es-
sence of cedar; to the green, essence of
bergamot; and with the white, mix a little
orange-flower water, and some drops of es-
sence of Neroli.
Your paste being thus prepared, form it
of whatever little ornaments you please, such
as eggs, balls, turnips, (adding green leaves
to these), &c. of the white; of the yellow,
apricots, pears, carrots, &c.; plums, &c.
of the blue; and so on; rolling them in your
hands to smooth them, and make them all
quite small; to those which imitate fruits,
add tails and tops, cut from cherry -stalks,
and stuck on whilst the paste is damp; and
with a hair-pencil, dipped in powdered cin-


GOO
GRE
231
en up with six whites of eggs; stir all these
together well for five or six minutes, when
the preparatton should Ih. sufftciently firm, to
prevent its spreading when laid; if, how-
ever, it be too firm, add to it more white of
egg. When you have proceeded so far, wet
the palms of your hands, and roll a spoonful
of the preparation to the size and form of a
nutmeg; when all done, dip your hands in
water, and pass them gently over the maca-
roons, which will make their surface smooth
and shining; put them into a nearly cold
oven; close it tight, and let them remain in
it for three-quarters of an hour. Lay die
macaroons at least an inch apart, and as
round as possible.
FLOWERS IN SUGAR. Clarify su-
gar to a caramel height, which may be
known by dipping in a fork, and if it throws
the sugar as fine as threads, put in the flow-
ers. Have ready some tea-cups, with the
insides rublied with sweet oil; put into each
cup four table-spoonfuls of the sugar and
flowers, and when cold turn them out of the
cups, and serve them to table piled one upon
another.
FRUIT BISCUITS. To the pulp of
any scaldeil fruit. put an equal quantity of
sugar sifted, beat it two hours; then put it
into little white paper f,rms; dry them in a
cool oven, turn them the next day, and in
two or three days box them.
FRUIT, PRESERVED, BISCUITS
OF. Take dried preserved fruits, such as
apricots, verjuice, grapes, plums, oranges,
and a lit tie orange-flower marmalade;
pound them together, and sift in a sieve;
then mix it with yolks of new laid eggs, and
fine powder-sugar, until it comes to a supple
paste, not too liquid; then bake them on
paper in a moderate oven.
G.
GINGER, CANDIED. Put an ounce
of ginger, grated fine, and a pound of sifted
sugar into a preserving-pan with as much
water as will dissolve it. Stir them well
together over a slow fire, till the sugar be-
gins to boil; then ndd another pound, stir-
ring constantIv till it thickens. Take it
from the fire, drop it on earthen dishes, set
them in a warm place to dry. and they will
be hard and brittle and look white.
GOOSEBERRY CAKES. Break the
gooselierries, press out the juice, and strain
tt through a muslin; to one pint of juice a
pound of sugar; boil uo the juice; strew in
the sugar: stir it well; simmer it well titi
the sugar is melted; pour it into glumes:
dry it in a stove till it will turn out, then
dry the cakes on plates.
GOOSEBERRIES, GREEN, COM-
POTE OF. Give them a little cut on one
side to squeeze out the seeds, and put them
in hot water to scald, till they rise to the
top; then put cold water to them, adding a
little salt, to bring them to their natural
green; simmer them in clarified sugar, and
let them remain in sometime to imbibe the
sweet; take them out, and put them in the
compotier; reduce the sirup to a good con-
sistence, and poor it over the frutt. This
is for green gooseberries; but if you make
use of preserved ones, warm them in their
own sirup and a little water, and serve it
either hot or cold. These will not keep
long, particularly if they have been warmed
again: if exposed to the air any time, they
will lose their color.
GRAPE ICE. Take ripe grapes, pick
them from their stalks, pass them through
a sieve; mix some sugar with the juice of
four lemons squeezed upon it; pass the
whole together a second time through a
sieve, then freeze it.
GRAPES RATAFIA. Take some
fine muscadine grapes, pick them from the
stalks; bruise and press them, so as to ex-
tract all their juice; then dissolve some su-
gar in the grape juice, adding to it brandy
and cinuamon; let the whole infuse for a
fortnight; then strain it through a filtermg
bag, and bottle it ofti. The proper propor-
tions are one pint of brandy, and ten ounces
of sugar to one pint of grape juice.
GREEN-GAGES TO CANDY. When
finished in the sirup, (see green-gages to
preserve,) put a layer into a new sieve,
and dip it suddenly into hot water, to take
off the sirup that hangs about it; then put
it on a napkin before the fire to drain, and
then do some more on the sieve. Have
ready some sifted double-refined sugar, sitt
this all over every part of the fruit, till it is
perfectly white. Set it on the shallow end
of sieves in a lightly warm oven, and turn
it two or three tunes. It must not be cold
till dry. Watch it carefully.
GREEN GAGES TO PRESERVE.
You must choose the largest, when I hey be-
gin to soften; split without paring them,and
having previously weighed an equal quanti-
ty of sugar, strew a part of it over them;
blanch the kernels with a small sharp knife;
next day, pour the sirup from the fruit, and
boil it with the other sugar, very gently, far


JUN
LEM
282
I
stx or eight minutes; skim, and add the
plums and kernels. Simmer till clear,
taking off any scum that rises; put the fruit
single into small pots, and pour the sirup
and kernels upon it.
GUM PASTE. Put a pound of gum-
dragon in a basin, with warm water enough
to cover one inch above the gum; set this m
a warm closet for four and twenty hours;
have a new tammy ready laid over a dish;
spread it on it, and -squeeze through as
mut-h as you can at first; then open the
tammy, spread the gum out again, and then
squeeze it; repeat this till the whole is
through; then lay it on the slab, work it
well with your hand, put in nearly all the
juice of one lemon, and a pound of the best
double refined powder-sugar, by degrees, as
you work it; but before you have put in the
whole of the sugar, begm to add some of
the I iest starch powder; blend them thor-
oughly together, till the paste begins to
take an impression; then roll it in a cloth,
and let it stand in a damp place for a week
or ten days, (it is the tatter for keeping),
work it with powder, and it will cut and
mould to any shape you please, and when
you want it to harden, set it in a dry place;
if you wish to color it, to make it red, use
cochineal or carmine; for blue or violet
color, use indigo; for yellow, saffron; for
green, the juice of beet leaves, scalded over
the fire, the thick part mix with the paste.
When you put in colors, be careful to blend
them well, and be particular that the color
is good.
H.
HARTSHORN CREAM. Boil a quar-
ter of a pound of hartshorn-shavings in three
pints of water; when reduced to half a pint,
strain it through a jelly-bag; put it to a
pint of cream and a quarter of a pound of
powder-sugar, and give them one boil to-
gether; then put it into cups or glasses, and
let them stand till cold, when turn them out
on a dtsh; stick some sliced blanched al-
monds on the top of each. White wine
and sugar is usually eaten with them.
J.
JUNIPER BERRIES, ICES OF. In-
fuse some juniper berries in warm water,
or take about a handful of the berries, and
boil them a moment with a pint of water,
half a pound of sugar, and a bit of cinua-
mon, and sift them through a sieve with ex-
pression, and finish the same as all others.
JUNIPER RATAFIA. Take three
ounces of juniper berries, anise, corian-
der, cinuamon, and cloves, of each eight-
een grains; bruise all these ingredients, and
infuse them, for a month, in three pints of
brandy; then strain it, add three-quarters
of a pound of sugar dissolved in halt' a pint
of water, stir them together, pass the whole
through a jelly-bag, and bottle it; keep it
well corked.
L.
LEMON BRANDY. Put the peel of
two lemons into a bottle of brandy, let it
stand for four and twenty hours, then strain
it; boil two ounces of loaf sugar in a quar-
ter of a pint of water; then skim, and let it
stand till cold; when cold, mix it with the
brandy.
LEMON CAKES. Quarter as many
lemons as you think proper, they must have
good rinds, and boil them in two or three
waters, till they are tender, and have lost
their bitterness; then skin them, and put
them in a napkin to fry; with a knife take
all the skins and seeds out of the pulp, shred
the peels fine, put them to the pulp, weigh
them, and put rather more than their weight
of fine sugar into a tossing-pan, with just
sufftcient water to dissolve the sugar; boil
it till it becomes perfectly dissolved, and
then by degrees put in the peel and pulps;
stir them well before you set them on the
fire, boil it very gently till it looks clear and
thick, and then put it into flat-bottomed
glasses; set them in a stove, and keep them
in a continual and moderate heat, and turn
them out upon glasses, as soon as they are
candied.
LEMON COMPOTE. Cut them in
small pieces, and boil them in water till
they are tender, then change them into cold
water; then make a sirup with a glass of
water, and a quarter of a pound of sugar,
and put in the fruit; let it simmer gently
over a slow fire for half an hour, and serve
cold.
LEMON CONSERVE. Grate the rind
of a lemon on a piece of sugar (about a
pound,) scrape off the surface of the sugar.
as the lemon adheres to it, until you have
rasped the whole of the rind; squeeze half
the juice on the scraped sugar, and then
boil the rest to la grande plume; take it
from the fire when at this degTee, and let it
stand a little; stir in the lemon gently, and
when it forms a sort of glace on the top of
the sugar, pour the conserve into moulds;


LEM
LEM
233
being careful, however, that it is not too
hot.
LEMON DROPS. Grate three large
lemons, with a large piece of double refined
sugar; then scrape the sugar into a plate,
add half a tea-spoonful of Dour; mix well
together, and beat it into a light paste, with
the white of an egg. Drop it upon white
paper, put them on a tin-plate, and set them
in a moderate oven.
LEMON ICE CREAM. Take the juice
of three or four lemons, and grate the peel
of one lemon; add two gills of sirup, and
one pint of cream ; mix it all together, pass
it through a sieve, and freeze it.
LEMONS TO KEEP FOR PUD-
DINGS. When you squeeze the fruit,
throw the outside in water, without the
pulp ; let them remain in the same a fort-
night, adding no more; boil them in the
same till tender; strain it from them, and
when they are nearly dry, throw them into
any jar of candy you may have remaining
from old sweetmeats; or, if you have none,
boil a small quantity of sirup, of common
loaf sugar and water, and pour over them;
in a week or ten days, boil them gently in
it till they look clear; and that they may
be covered with it in the jar, you may cut
each half of the fruit in two, and they will
occupy a smaller space.
LEMON PASTILS. Take half a pound
of pounded loaf sugar, sifted as fme as pos-
sible; put it in a plate, take three or four
lemons, and squeeze their juice over the su-
gar; mix it well with a spoon, till you make
it rather a thickish paste, so that you can
take it upon a knife; then take half a sheet
of paper, and cover it with little round and
flat drops, about the size of a sixpence, place
them in a stove with a slow fire till they are
quite.dry, then take them off from the paper;
you may use, if you please, some of the peel
grated, but not chipped; for, as it is a melt-
mg pastil, some of the bits would remain in
the mouth.
LEMON PEEL CANDIED. Take
some thick-rinded lemons, pare off the yel-
low peel, and throw it into boiling water till
soft, when it must be put into cold water.
Clarify some fine sugar, and boil it an -petit
lisse, and having drained the lemon-peel,
pour on it the sirup (whilst hot); the next
day boil the sirup again, and return it to the
peel; the third and fourth days proceed in
the same manuer, adding a small quantity of
clarified sugar; the last time the sirup is
boiled.as soon as it rises to perle, put in
the peel, cover and boil the whole together
once, and when cold, drain and dry them in
a stove.
LEMON PEEL, TO CANDY. Take
some lemon-peels, and clean them well from
the pulp, and let them lay two days in salt
and water; then scald and drain them dry,
then boil them in a thin sirup till they look
quite clear. After which, take them out,
and have ready a thick sirup made with fine
loaf sugar; put them into it, and simmer
them till the sugar-candies about the pan and
peels. Then lay them separately on a hair
sieve to drain, strew silted sugar over them,
and set them to dry in a slow oven.
LEMON PEEL, CARAMEL. Take
some very dry preserved lemon-peel, and
cut it into several small square pteces; put
these pieces each ou the point of little sticks
for this purpose, and dip them into caramel
sugar ab directed. See chestnuts au car-
amel.
LEMON PEEL SIRUP OF. Take
five ounces of fresh lemon-peel, put it into a
glass cucurbite, which has been gradually
heated; pour on them two pounds of nearly
boiling water; close the vessel very tight,
and place it on hot ashes for twelve hours;
after which, let the infusion run out gently
without pressing the peel; add two pounds
of powder-sugar, and then boil the whole to
grand perle, when about half cold, put in
a few drops of spirit of lemon.
LEMON SWEETMEATS. Take a
pound of marchpane paste, and mix it with
as many yolks of eggs as will enable you to
spread the paste with a knife; add to it a
sufficient quantity of grated lemon-peel to
impart the flavor required. The whole
being well mixed, cut some sheets of wafer
paper into such figures as your fancy may
dictate, and spread the paste over them,
about a quarter of an inch in thickness;
place them on paper, and bake them in a
moderate oven. If you wish to glaze your
sweetmeats, boil some sugar with orange-
flower water to la plume, and when they
are taken out of the oven, wash them over
with the sirup, which dries almost immedi-
ately.
LEMONS, SIRUP OF. Squeeze as
many lemons as will yield about three-quar-
ters of a pound of juice, taking particular
care that the peel of every lemon is perfectly
sound, and that they are none of them in the
least degree bitter. Set your juice in the
cellar for four days, and then filter it through
blotting-paper. Break a pound and a half
of double-refined sugar into pieces about an
inch square ; put them into a gallon matrass,
24 *


OR A
ORA
288
ORANGE, COMPOTE. Cut them
tn small pieces, and boil them in wa-
ter until they are tender, then change them
•nto mid water; next make a airap with
me glass of water and four ounces of sugar,
and put in the fruit; let it simmer (reaily
over a slow me for half an hour; serve cold.
ORANGE, CROQUE EN BOTT-
CHES OF. Pare a dozen fine oranges,
and divide each into twelve pieces, all of
the same size; scrape off every particle of
the white, without breaking the thin skin
which contains the juice; when all are done,
dip each piece into some sugar hoiled to
casxe (and lightly colored,) and place them
in a plain mould of six inches diameter, and
five in height; the ftrst row inclined one way,
the second the reverse way, and so on; lay
them at the bottom in a star. As soon as
the mould is full, turn it out, and serve it
with all posstble expedition, as the motsture
of the fruit dissolves the sugar so rapidly,
that the croque en bouche is liable to fall
to pieces.
ORANGE CAKES. Divide the or-
anges in half, take out the seeds, and put
the pulp and juice into a basin; boil the
rinds in a saucepan of water, closely cover-
ed; when very tender take them out, and
dry them upon a cloth; allow to a pound of
orange rinds, two of pounded loaf sugar;
pound the rinds in a mortar; add by degrees
the sugar, and then the juice and pulp; mix
it thoroughly till thick and yellow; drop it
upon tins in small cakes, and dry them un-
der garden glasses, or in a cool oven. If
it be too thick to drop, let it stand a night.
ORANGE SHERBET. Dissolve a
pound and half of sugar in a quart of very
pure water; take nine fine oranges and two
lemons; wipe them well with a napkin, and
having grated the most fragrant rinds, squeeze
on them the juice of these fruits; sweeten
this juice with the above sirup, run the whole
through a close hair sieve, and finish in
the usual way. (See Sherbet.)
ORANGE SHRUB. Put ten pounds
of crushed sugar to two gallons of water,
and boil it until the sugar be dissolved; skim
it well, and put it into a tub; when quite
cold, pour it into a barrel; add three quarts
of Jamaica rum, and six quarts of orange-
juice (take care there are no pips.) Beat
up the white of an egg, mix it with the
shrub, and let it stand for a week; then
,lraw it off and bottle it.
ORANGE SUGAR. Rasp on a piece
of sugar the rinds of the best oranges, but
so lightly that not a particle of the white is I
mixed with it; scrape oflTthe surface of the
sugar as it becomes colored, and continue
this operation until von have as much sugar
as you require; then lay it in a stove, or at
the mouth of the oven to dry; when it is
penally so, pass it through a very fine
sieve. Lemons and cedralsimay lte grated,
and the sugar dried in the same manuer.
ORANGES, GREEN. Scrape one the
insides of the oranges quite clean, then let
them. lie for three days in cold water, chang-
ing the water daily, then boil them very
slowly till the water is bitter; then put
lltem into other boiling water, set them by;
repeating this daily till all the bitterness is
extracted: make a rich sirup of the last
water they are boiled in, with Lisbon sugar;
when cold, put them in; the next day boil
them in the sirup; repeat this till they are
green and tender; cover with brandy-paper.
ORANGE, WATER ICE. Take off
the rind of two Seville oranges, very fine
and thin; squeeze the juice into a basin
with one lemon; add half a pint of sirup,
and half a pint of water; pass them through
a sieve, and freeze them rich.
ORANGE-FLOWER CONSERVE.
Boil half a pound of clarified sugar to grande
plume, take it from the fire, and pour into
it a dessert spoonful of orange-flower water;
stir them together well, set the mixture on
the fire, and when warm, pour it into shal-
low paper-cases; let it cool, and then cut it
into cakes of any form you please.
ORANGE-FLOWER PASTILS. Pul-
verise a good pinch of dried orange-flowers;
pound them with gum-dragon, previously
dissolved in one glass of plain, and the
same quantity of orange-flower water; add
a sufficient proportion of powder-sugar, to
make the paste of the requisite consistence,
which form according to your taste into
cones, lozenges, &c.
ORANGE-FLOWER PRALINES.
Take a pound of very fresh white orange-
flowers, pick, and throw them into cold
water; clarify, and boil two pounds of sugar
to souffle, then put in the flowers; stir
them wtth a spatula, until your sugar re-
gains the degree of souffle; take the pan
from the lire, and continue stirring till I he
sugar is separated from the flowers, and be-
comes a powder; set it in a stove to dry,
then set the whole on a sieve, that the sugar
may run through and leave the flowers,
which put into bottles. If preserved in a
dry place they will keep for twelve months.
ORANGE-FLOWERS SIRUP. Oar-


PAS
PEA
290
P.
PARFAIT AMOUR. Take four very
fine fresh cedrats, pare them verv thin, and
mfuse them with half an ounce of fine cinua-
mon, and four ounces of coriander, in three
gallons of strong brandy, and a quart of wa-
ter, for a week or ten days, when distil it
in the bain marie; lltis quantity of brandy,
if good, will yield two gallons and half a
Eint of spirit. Dissolve three pounds and a
ilf of sugar in seven pints of river water,
color it with cochineal, then add it to the
spirit, filter, and bottle it.
PASTILLES. To make these articles,
h is necessary to have a small copper stew-
pan that will hold about a pint, rather deep
than wide, with a pointed lip on the right
side, and a tolerably long handle, also two
pieces of wood, one about eighteen inches
ton.f, and four in diameter, called the bois
a tab tller, the other about half the length,
one inch in diameter, and the lower end,
pointed so that it will exactly fit the lip of
the pan; this is called the bois a egoutter;
six or eight tin plates about the size of a
sheet of letter-paper.
For the best pastilles, take a pound of
double-refined sugar reduced to an impalpa-
ble powder; sift it through a tammy on a
sheet of white paper, put four or five spoon-
fuls of this sugar into your pan, pour on it a
little orange-flower water, and beat it well
with the larger stick, until the preparation!
is sufficiently thin to run from the stick
without being clear; if it be so, more sugar
must be added. Put the pan over a chafing-
dish filled with live coals, and let it stand
(stirring constantly) till it boils; then take
it off the chafing-dish, add two more spoon-
fuls of sugar, work it up well, scrape away
whatever sugar adheres to the stick, set it
aside, and take thesmaller stick in your
right hand, hold the pan in your left (slant-
ing) over one of the tin-plates; the sugar
will, by these means, flow to the lip, then
strike the point of the stick into the lip of
the pan, which action will separate the
liquid, so that each time the stick strikes
the lip a single drop of the preparation will
fall on the tin; a little practice will be ne-
cessary before this operation can be perform-
ed neatly. As soon as all your sugar, &c.
is used, replenish the pan and proceed as
above directed, until you have as many
pastilles as you may require. When cold
and hard, remove them from the tins with
your hand, and keep them in boxes in a
dry place. You may, if you please „ color
the pastilles, taking care to perfume them
with a corresponding odour.
PASTILLES, COMMON. These are
made in the same manuer as the best sort,
the difference consists in the materials,
(which are a quarter of a pound of powder
to three-quarters of a pound of sugar) and
the perfumes are omitted.
PASTILLAGES. Put two ounces of
well-washed gum dragon into an earthen
pan, with as much clear hot water as wilt
cover it, lay a sheet of paper to keep out
the dust, and let it stand twenty-four hours;
then squeeze it through a coarse cloth into
a marble mortar, and add to it as much
starch and sugar (both in powder) as the
gum water will contain; pound these ingre-
dients well, and strain them through a tammy
into a pan which keep covered with a damp
cloth. This pastillage is used to form the
ornamental parts of pastry and confectton-
ary, such 3s temples, baskets, &c., and may
be tinged of the requisite shades, by mix-
ing with it any of the coloring materials.
PEACHES IN A COMPOTE. Cut
your peaches in half, take out the stones,
peel them, then set them on the fire in a
sugar-pan, with a sufficient quantity of thick
clarified sugar to cover them, and let them
simmer in this gently till done; then take,
them out in a basin, put in the kernels to
the sugar, and let it boil until tolerably thick;
put in the juice of two or three lemons, and
pour the sirup over the peaches; serve them
m a deep hot dish.
PEARS IN BRANDY. Take some
beurre pears, not too ripe, put them into a
saucepan with a sufficient quantity of water
to cover them, set them on the fire, and let
them simmer, but not boil, until the pears
will yield to the pressure of your finger;
then change them into cold water; pare
them wtth the greatest care, so that not a
single spot may remain; prick .and put them
again on the fire in fresh water and the juice
of a lemon; let them boil very fast. As
soon as the pears are soft enough for the
head of a pin to penetrate them easily, take
them out carefully with a skimmer, and lay
them in cold water. In the meantime, hav-
ing boiled your sugar to lisse, pour the
boiling sirup on the pears, (previously
drained from the water,) and leave them.
The next day drain off the sirup, boil it to
la nappe, then put in the pears, give them
a boil also; proceed in the same manuer oa
the third day, after which, drain the fruit,
and put it into bottles. Boil up the sirup a
few more times, let it cool, and then pour
on it some brandy, (three-fourths of the
quantity of the sirup;) run the mixture
through a bag, put it to the pears, and cork
the bottles well.


P I s
P L U
291
PEARS CANDIED. Are done like
apricots.
PEARS, COMPOTE OF. Take some
good sized pears, cut them in halves, and
put them into boiling water; when soft,
change them into cold water, in which
squeeze a little lemon-juice. Boil some
clarified sugar, drain the fruit well from the
water, and then put them into the sirup;
boil together until the pears are sufficiently
done; skim, and place them in the compo-
tier. A little Burgundy wine and prepared
cochineal will give the compote a red color.
PEAR MARMALADE. Take six
pounds of small pears and four pounds of
sugar; put the pears into a saucepan with
a little water, set it on the fire; when the
fruit is soft, take them out, pate, quarter,
and core them; as yoM do this, throw each
ptece into cold water, in another saucepan,
and when all pre done, set them on the lire.
As soon as they are sufficiently soft, rub
them through a sieve, and having in the
meantime clarified and boiled the sugar to
petit lisse, pour the sirup to the pulp, set it
on the fire, and stir them together until the
marmalade is of the proper consistence;
then take it off, put it into pots, and when
cold, tie them down.
PERSICA. Cut about one hundred
peach leaves, put them into a wide-mouthed
bottle, pour on them a quart of the best
brandy, cork it close; in three weeks stram
it off, and put to it an equal quantity of ca-
pillaire. It is good in custards, puddings,
and as a liqueur.
PINE APPLE CHIPS. Pare and
trim a pine-apple, divide, and slice each
half into pieces a quarter of an inch thick;
take half the weight of the fruit in powder-
sugar: lay the sllces in a basin, with sugar
strewed between; let it stand till the sugar
be dissolved, then set it on a moderate fire
to simmer till the chips be quite clear, when
set it by. The next day remove all the
sirup from the slices, place them on glasses,
and dry them in a gentle oven.
PINE APPLE IN A COMPOTE.
Turn off the rind of a pine, cut it in slices,
but not too thin; have some sugar on the
fire in a sugar-pan, into which put the slices
of pine, and let them boil gently till the sirup
is tolerably thick, then take out the pine,
and lay it on a dish; mix with the sugar,
the juice of a couple of lemons, and pout it
over the pine.
PISTACHIO MARCHPANE. Put a
pound and a half of pistachios into a mortar.
pound them, moistening with white of egg,
to a very fine paste; in the meantime clari-
fy the same quantity of sugar, boil it to petit
Oouh; then take the pan from the fire, put
in the pistachios, stir them together well,
replace the pan on hot ashes, continually
stirring, till the paste is of a proper cons is
tence, then pour it on a slab well sprinkled
with sugar; as soon as it is cold, cut it into
whatever forms your fancy may dictate.
PLUMS, IN BRANDY. Take twelve
pounds of fine magnum bonum plums, and
three pounds of sugar; the fruit should be
turned in color, but not ripe; prick, and put
them tnto a saucepan with cold water, set
them on the fire; when the water boils and
the plums rise, take them out carefully with
a skimmer and put them into a pan of cold
water; clarify and boil the sugar to petit
lissc, put the plums to it, atm give them a
boil; the two succeeding days, drain off
and boil the sirup, first alone, and after-
wards with the fruit; the third day drain
the plums, and put them into bottles; then
boil the sirup to la nappe, and when cold,
add to it three-fourths of its quantity of the
best brandy, stir it well, strata and pour the
mixture over the plums. Cork the bottles
tight. Green-gage plums are done like
apricots. (See Apricots in Brandy.)
PLUMS CANDIED. Choose your
fruit of a nice shape and good size; cut
them in halves, lay them on a large shallow
dish, strew powder-sugar over, and put
them into a moderate oven, tightly closed;
in half an hour's time, take them out, and
place the plums one by one on glass plates
to dry.
PLUMS, CLEAR CAKES OF. Fill
ajar with the white pear plums, set it in a
saucepan of boiling water on the fire; when
sufficiently done, let the clear juice run
from it, and to every pint of it, add an equal
quantity of sugar, boiled to candy height;
put the juice to the sirup, set it on the fire,
and keep stirring it till the whole is quite
hoti but not boiling; then pour it into glass-
es, and dry the cakes in a stove.
PLUMS, MARMALADE OF. Take
six pounds of plums, and four pounds of
sugar; stone, and put the fruit into a cul--
lender, beat it through with a wooden pestle
into a preserving-pan, which set on the fire,
to dry the pulp, stirring it constantly. In
the meantime, clarify and boil the sugar to
petit casse, then mix it with the fruit (sfcill
on the fire,) stir it till the whole is of the
consistence of jelly, then take it off, and
pour the marmalade into pots.
If the plums are not qutte ripe, they must


RAS
ROS
293
Q.
QUINCE CAKES. Pare and core
half a dozen quinces, boil them till quite
■oft; then rttb the pulp through a sieve, and
Strain it; mix this with half a pint of sirup
of quinces, and the same of sirup of barber-
rtes, and a quarter of a pound of line sugar;
boil the whole to casse, and then pour it
into small shallow moulds, of any shape
you please; let them cool a little, and then
dry them in a stove.
QUINCE CAKES TRANSPARENT.
Take a quart of sirup of quinces, and half a
pint of the sirup of barberries; set them on
a gentle fire, boi and skim them well; then
add two pounds and a half of fine sugar,
keep stirring until it reaches candy height;
then take it off, and when nearly cold, lay
it, in any form you please, on tin plates.
Pry them in a stove.
R.
RASPBERRY CAKES. Gather some
raspberries before they are quite ripe, pick,
and lay them in a stove to dry; then beat
them in a mortar. Take a pound and
quarter of fine sugar, clarify and boil it to
casse; then weigh half a pound of raspber-
ries, dried as above; throw them into the
sirup, with half a spoonful of white of egg,
beaten in cream; stir it carefully, give it a
boil, and pour it in moulds or paper cases.
RASPBERRIES OF MARCHPANE.
Take a pound of marchpane, the juice of
four lemons, a quarter of a pound of rasp-
berry jelly, and a little cochineal; mix these
together with a strong wooden spatula; then
add two handfuls of Hour, and some powder
sugar; when well worked up, roll them into
pieces about the size of a finger, cut these
into dice, roll each into a ball, pinch the
top into a point, so as to resemble the form
of a raspberry: then put them one by one
into paper cases, which place in a dry
warm place, for eight or ten days. At the
end of that time, put a portion of sirup of
raspberries, a little cochineal, and a small
quantity of powder-sugar into a pan; mix
them together with a spoon, and then throw
into it a couple of handfuls of the raspber-
ries; take the pan in both hands, and shake
it about, so that the raspberries may be
equally covered with the red sirup; then
put sugar a la grele on a latge sheet of
paper, spread it out a little, and while the
raspberries are wet with he sirup, throw
them into the sugar; then take the four
corners of the paper, shake it about well,
by which means the sugar will adhere to
the raspberries in all parts, and give them
a perfect resemblance to the teal fruit; take
them out carefully one by one, lay them on
paper, and put them in a warm place ftn-
some days. These artificial raspberries are
of a pleasant flavor, and will keep several
years.
RASPBERRY MARMALADE. Take
double the weight of raspberries to that of
sugar. Rub the fruit through a sieve, and
put the pulp into a saucepan; set it on the
fire, and stir till it is reduced to half; then
pour on the sugar, previously clarified and
boiled to petit 6ou/e, stir it well in, put it
on the fire, give it a few boils, and then
pour it into pots.
RASPBERRIES PRESERVED. Take
five or six pounds of red, but not too ripe
raspberries, pick, and put them into a pre-
serving pan, with an equal weight of clari-
fied sugar, boiled to petit boule; when
they have boiled up about a dozen times,
skim, and pour the whole into a pan till the
next day, then drain the fruit, and put it
into jars; put to the sirup about two glass-
es of cherry juice, previously strained; boil
the sugar to la nappe, and then pour it
over the raspberries; add afterwards, about
a spoonful of currant jelly to each pot, and
when cold, lay on brandy papers, and tie
them down.
RATAFIA OF FOUR FRUITS. Tako
ten pounds of very ripe cherries, two pounds
and a half of raspberries, five pounds and a
half of red and two pounds of black cur-
rants; pick, and mix these fruits together,
press the juice from them, measure it, and
for every quart of juice, take half a pound
of sugar, and an equal quantity of brandy;
dissolve the sugar in the juice, then put in
the brandy, a dractun of mace, and two
drachms of cloves. Let the whole stand
some time, filter, and bottle it. Keep them
well corked.
ROSES, CANDIED. Crisp two hand-
fuls of rose-leaves in some clarified sugar,
boil them to fort souffle, then take the pan
from the fire, pour it on a sieve, let the sir-
up run from the leaves, rubbing the latter in
your hands, then dry them in a stove Boil
your sugar again to souffle, adding a little
carmine to color it, have a proper mould
ready, pour the sugar into it, and put the
flowers on it, push them down lightly with
a fork, that they may be completely cover-
ed with the sugar; place the mould in a
moderate stove or oven for fae days, then


SUG
SUG
295
off the fire, and pour in the juice; stir them
together with a silver spoon, until the con-
serve begins to whiten and dry, then put it
into moulds or paper cases. If the conserve
be too white, add a little carmine to the
sirup.
STRAWBERRY MARCHPANE.
Take two pounds of sweet almonds, two
pounds and a half of sugar, and a pound of
picked strawberries. Beat the almonds to
a fine paste, and mlx them with the sugar
(boiled to petit boule;) crush, and strain
the juice of the fruit, which add to the al-
mond paste and sirup; stir the mixture well,
set it on hot ashes, and continue string until
the paste is sufficiently done; this may be
proved by laying a piece on the back of your
hand; if it may be removed without its
sticking, it is enough; when cold, spread it
over a slab, and cut it of any size and shape
you think proper.
SUGAR, TO CLARIFY. Take four
pounds of sugar, and break it into pieces;
put into a preserving-pan the white of an
egg, anil a glass of pure spring water; mix
them well with a whisk, add another glass,
still whipping, until two quarts of water
have been put in; when the pan is full of
froth, throw in the sugar, and set it on the
fire, being careful to skim it every time the
scum rises, which will be the case as the
sugar boils up. Alter a few boilings, the
sugar will i ise so high as to run over the
edges of the pan, to prevent which, throw
on it a little cold water; this will lower it
instantly, and give time for the skimming,
for the scum should never be taken off whilst
the sugar is bubbling; the cold water st ills
it, and that is the moment to skim it. Re-
peat this operation carefully three or four
times, when a whitish light scum only will
rise; then take the pan off, lay a napkin,
slightly wetted, over a basin, and pour the
sugar through it.
The scum thus taken off, put into a china
basin; and when the sugar is clarified, wash
the pan and the skimmer with a glass of
water, which put to the scum, and set it
aside for more common purposes.
SUGAR, Different Degrees of Pre-
paring. The various purposes to which
sugar is applied, require it to be indifferent
etates; these are called degrees, and are
thirteen in number, called as follows:
Petit Lisse, or First Degree. Re-
place the clarified sugar in the preserving-
pan, to boil gently, take a drop of it on the
thumb, touch it with the fore-finger; if, on
opening them, it draws to a fine thread, and
in breaking, forms two drops on each finger,
it is at the right point.
Lisse, Second Degree. A little more
boiling brings it to this point; when the
thread will draw further before it breaks.
Petit Perle, Third Degree. At this
point the thread may he drawn as far as the
span will open, without breaking.
Grand Perle, Fourth Degree. On
still increasing the boiling, little raised balls
are formed on the surface of the sugar.
Petit Queue de Cochon, Fifth Degree.
Take up some of the sugar on a skimmer,
and drop it on the rest, when it should form
a slanting streak on the surface. Boil it a
little longer, and it will reach the
Grande Queue de Cochon, or Sixth
Degree. The streak or tail is now larger.
Souffle, Seventh Degree. Take out a
skimmerful of the sugar, blow through it,
and small sparks of sugar will fly from it.
Petit-Plume, Eighth Degree. The
same proof as above; the sparks should be
larger a..d stronger.
Grande Plume, Ninth Degree. Take
the sugar in the skimmer, as before, give it
a shake, and if the sparks are large, and
adhere together on rising, it is at the right
point.
Petit Boulet, Tenth Degree. Dip
your fingers in cold water, and then into
the sugar instantly, and again into the wa-
ter, when the sugar will roll into a ball,
which will he supple when cold.
Gros Boulet, Eleventh Degree. At
this point, the ball or bullet will be harder
when cold than at the htst.
Casse, Twelfth Degree. Prove as
above; the bullet should crumble between
the fingers, and on biting, will stick to the
teeth; at the next point,
Caramel, Thirteenth Degree, It
should snap clean. This point is very diffi-
cult to attain, for in increasing the height,
the sugar is apt to burn; it is better there-
fore to try the proof very frequently.
Another caramel is frequently used by the
confectioner, and is of a deep color; it is
made by putting a little water to the sugar,
and boiling it without skimming, or other-
wise touching the sugar, till of the right
color, then take it off and use immediately.
If, on preparing the sugar, you happen to
miss the right point, add a little cold water,
and boil once more.
Observations.—The skimmer should
never be left in the preserving-pan after the
sugar is clarifted, nor after the scum is re-
moved.
Be very careful not to stir or disturb the
sugar, as that would cause its diminution.
In boiling the sugar (particularly the two
last degrees), the sugar is continually rising
and falling; and on falling, leaves marks on
the sides of the patt, which the heat of the
fire would soon burn, and thereby spoil tu«


VER
VIO
297
sauce, and as soon as it sticks to the spoon
(which must be of wood), take it off, stir it
an instant, and then pour it over the other
cream, and serve cold.
VANILLA CREAM WHIPPED. Put
a pinch of gum-dragon into a pint of cream,
add a small quantity of orange-flower water,
powder-sugar to the taste, and a little milk,
m which some vanilla has been boiled, and
the milk strained; whip these ingredients
with a whisk, until the whole is sufficiently
frothed; then lay it carefully on a dish, in a
pyramidal form, and serve it.
VANILLA CREAM ICE. Whisk the
whites of twelve eggs to a firm froth in a
preserving pan, pour on them the yolks of
eight, and a pound of sifted sugar, whip the
whole well with a whisk, and pour in by de-
grees two quarts of boiling cream; continue
to whip it for some little time, and then put
it on the fire, with half an ounce of vanilla
bruised; still whipping, when it has boiled
up three or four times, strain it, and freeze
as usual. (See Ice.)
VANILLA CREAM LIQUEUR.
Dissolve over the fire two pounds ten ounces
of broken sugar, in three pints of purified
river water; when it has boiled up once,
pour it into a jar, on three drachms of va-
nilla, cut in pieces, and half a grain of amber.
When quite cold, add three pints of good
brandy, cover the vessel, and when it has
infused six days, color it with a little pre-
pared cochineal; filter, and bottle the li-
queur. Cork the bottles tight, and seal the
corks.
VANILLA STICKS. Take some
marchpane paste, a quarter of a pound of
chocolate, and the same of vanilla; mix
these well into the paste, and lhen form it
into sticks, like the vanilla in its original
form; lay them on a sheet of paper, and
bake in a slow oven.
VERDE. Infuse the rinnt of three lem-
ons and four oranges in two quarts of rum
or brandy, for four-and-twenty hours, close-
ly stopped; dien squeeze the juice through
a strainer; if the fruit is good, there will be
half a pint, and if there is not so much, make
it that; add to it a pound and a quarter of
sugar, pour to it three quarts of water, and
keep stirring till all the sugar is dissolved;
when it is dissolved, stir in the peel and
spirits, and then one pint of cold new milk;
pass it through a bag till clear; bottle it.
It will keep good for twelve months.
VE?JUICE. (1) Verjuice is the young,
unripe, anJ sour grape; it is frequently
used in French cookery, but very rarely pnt
into English dishes.
VERJUICE. (2) Take some crab
apples w hen the kernels turn black, lay them
in a heap to sweat; then pick them from
the stalks and rottenuess, beat them to a
mash, and press the juice through a bag of
coarse hair cloth into a clean vessel; it will
be fit for use in a month's time. If inten-
ded for white-sickles, distil it in a cold still.
It may be put into sauces when lemon is
wanting.
VESPETRO. Take half a pound of
each of the following seeds: angelica, cori-
ander, fenuel, and caraway, the rinds of
jour lemons, and as many oranges, infuse all
these in two gallons and a half of the best
brandy, close the vessel hermetically. In
five days time, distil it in the bain mane
alembic, and draw from the above quantity
five quarts of liqueur. Dissolve seven
pounds of sugar in a gallon of pure river
water; add this sirup to the liqueur, filter,
and bottle it.
VIOLETS CANDIED. Pick off the
green stalks from some double violets; boil
some sugar to souffle; pot in the violets,
and keep them in till the sugar again boils
to souffle; then rub the sugar against the
sides of the pan until it is white; stir all
together till the sugar leaves the violets, and
then sift and dry them.
VIOLETS TO ROCK CANDY.
Pick the leaves off the violets; then hoil
some of the best, and finest sugar to souffle,
pour it into a candymg-pan made of tin, in
the form of a dripping-pan, about three inches
deep; then strew the violet leaves as thick
as possible on the top, and put it into a hot
stove, in whlch let it remain for ten days;
when it is hard candied, break a hole in one
corner of it, and drain off all the sirup;
break it out, and place it in heaps upon a
tin to dry in a stove.
VIOLETS, CONSERVE OF. Take
a quarter of a pound of early violets, picked;
bruise them m a mortar; boil two pounds
of sugar to casse, take it off, put in the pulp,
and mix them together over the fire, and
when the sugar bubbles up, pour the conserve
into the moulds.
VIOLET DROPS. (1) Take a cer-
tain quantity of sirup of violets, which mix
with an equal portion of water; use this
mixture, ami make your drops precisely as
directed. You may, if yon please, perfume
it with oil of violets, but that is no', neces-
sary, as the sirup, imparts sufficient odour


EXPLANATION
Of some of the Terms made use of in tke foregoing Pages.
Atelets—Small silver skewers. t
Baba—A French sweet yeast cake.
Bain-Marie—See the word in its place.
Bouquet—A bunch of parsley and sca'lions tied up to put in soups, &c.
Bouquet garni, or Assaisonne—The same, with the addition of cloves and aromattc
herbs.
Bourguignote—A ragout of truffles.
Braise—See word in its place.
Brioche—A French yeast cake.
Buisson—A whimsical method of dressing up pastry, &c.
Capilolade—A common hash of poultry.
Caramel, see page 295.
Casse, see page, 295.
Civet—A hash of game or wild fowl.
Compiegne—A French sweet yeast cake, with fruit, &c. &c.
Compote—A fine mixed ragout to garnish white poultry, &e; also a method of stewing
fiuit with sirup for desserts.
Compotier—A dish amongst the dessert service appropriated to the use of the compote.
Couronne To serve-any prescribed articles on a dish in the form of a crown.
Court or short (to stew)—To reduce a sauce very thick.
Crcustade—Bread baked in a mould, and scooped out to contain minces,-&c.
Croutons—Bread cut in various shapes, and fried lightly in butter or oil.
Vorez—To wash pastry, &c. with yolk of egg well beaten.
Dorure—Yolks of eggs beaten well.
Entrees—Are dishes served at the commencement, or during the first course of the
dinner.
Entremets—Small ornamental dishes, served in the second and third courses.
Farce, stuffing.
Financiere—An expensive, highly-flavored, mixed ragout.
Flan—A French custard.
Glaze, (to fall to a)—To reduce sauces till they become a jelly, and adhere to the
meat.
Glaze—Is usually made from reduced consomme, or juices from the bottoms of braised
whtte moats: it should be preserved in jelly-pots.
Glaze, Glace, or Ice—Is compared of white of egg beaten with powder-sugar
Godiveau—A common veal forcemeat.
Grand Plume, see page 295-.
Grand Perle, seit page 295.
Grand Queue de Cochon, see page 295.
Gros Boulet, see page 295.
Gras (au)—This signifies that the article specified is dressed with meat gravy.
GralM—A layer of some particular article is spread over a silver, or any other dish that
will bear the fire, an,l placed on a stove or hot ashes until it burns to it.
Hors d'&uvre—A small dish, served during the first course.
Hatelets—The same as Atelets.
Lard—To stick bacon, or other spectfied articles, into poultry, meat, &c.; it is done by
means of a larding-pin, one end of which is pointed, the other square, and hollow;
the lardon ts put mto this hollow, the point is then inserted into the meat, and on be-
ing drawn out, leaves the lardon standing up in its proper place.
Lardon*—The pieces into which bacon and other things are cut, for the purpose of
larding meat, &c. &c.
Larding-pan—An utensil by means of which meat, &c. is larded.
Liaison—A finish with yolks of eggs and cream, for ragouts and sauces.


300
COOKERY TERMS EXPLAINED.
Lisse, see page 295.
Madeleines—Cakes made of the same composition as pound-cakes.
Maigre—Soups, &c. dressed without meat.
Marinade—A prepared pickle for meat, fish, &c.
Mask—To cover completely.
Nouilles—An Italian paste, resembling macaroni; it is flat, instead of being in pipes.
Panada—Bread soaked in milk, used principally for quenelles and fine farces.
Passer—To frv lightly.
Petit Boufet, see page 295.
Petit Lisxe, see page 295.
Petit Perle, see page 295.
Petit Plume, see page 295.
Petit Queue de Cochoni see page 295.
Poele—A light braise for white meats. The difference between this and the braise w,
that in the former the meat, or whatever it may be, need not be so much done as in
the latter.'
Pota%e—Another term for soup.
Puree—Any meat, fish, or other article, boiled to a pulp, and rubbed through a sieve.
Quenelles—A fme farce; it is generally poached when used.
Salmi—A highly seasoned hash.
Sauter—To fry very lightly.
Sabotiere, or Sorbetiere—A pewter or tin vessel, in which are placed the moulds con-
taining the substance to be frozen.
Souffle, see page 295.
Tammy—A silk sieve.
Tourner, or Turn—To stir a sauce; also to pare and cut roots, vegetables, and fruits,
neatly.
7'ourtt—A puff-paste pie.
Vanner—To take up sauce, or other liquid, in a spoon, and turn it over quickly.


SEVENTY-FIVE
RECEIPTS
FOR
PASTRY, CAKES, AND SWEETMEATS
BY MISS LESLIE, OF PHILADELPHIA


PASTRY.
PRELIMINARY REMARKS
In making pastry or cakes, it is best to begin by weighing out
the ingredients, sifting the flour, pounding and sifting the sugar
and spice, washing the butter, and preparing the fruit.
Sugar can be powdered by pounding it in a large mortar, or by
rolling it on a paste-board with a rolling-pin. It should ue made
very fine and always sifted.
All sorts of spice should be pounded in a mortar,except nutmeg,
which it is better to grate. If spice is wanted in large quantities,
it may be ground in a mill. . .
The butter should always be fresh and very good. Wash it in
cold water before you use it, and then make it up with your hands
into hard lumps, squeezing the water well out.
If the butter and sugar are to be stirred together, always do
that before the eggs are beaten, as (unless they are kept too warm)
the butter and sugar will not be injured by standing awhile. For
stirring them, nothing is so convenient as a round hickory stick
about a foot and a half long, and somewhat flattened at one end.
The eggs should not be beaten till after all the other ingredients
are ready, as they will fall very soon. If the whites and yolks are
to be beaten separately, do the whites first, as they will stand
longer.
Eggs should be beaten in a broad shallow pan, spreading wide
at the top. Butter and sugar should be stirred in a deep pan with
straight sides.
Break every egg by itself, in a saucer, before you put it into the
pan, that in case there should be any bad ones, they may not spoil
the others.
Eggs are beaten most expeditiously with rods. A small quantity
of white of egg may be beaten with a knife, or a three-pronged
fork.
There can be no positive rules as to the exact time of baking
each article. Skill in baking is the result of practice, attention,
and experience. Much, of course, depends on the state of the
fire, and on the size of the things to be baked, and something on
the thickness of the pans or dishes.
If you bake in a stove, put some bricks in the oven part to set
the pans or plates on, and to temper the heat at the bottom. Large
sheets of iron, without sides, will be found very useful for small
cakes, and to put under the pans or plates.
86


4
PASTRY.
PUFF PASTE.
Half a pound and two ounces of sifted flour.
Half pound of best fresh butter, washed.
A little cold water.
This will make puff-paste for two Pud-
dings, or for one soup-plate Pie, or
for four small Shells.
Weigh half a pound and two ounces of
flour, and sift it through a hair-sieve iuto
a large deep dish. Take out about one
fourth of the flour, and lay it aside on oue
corner of your paste-board, to roll and
sprinkle with.
Wash, in cold water, half a pound of
the best fresh butter. Squeeze it hard with
your hands, and make it up iuto a round
lump. Divide'it in four equal parts; lay
them ou one side of your paste-board, and
have ready a glass of cold water.
Cjt one of the four pieces of butter iuto
the pan of flour. Cut it as small as possi-
ble. Wet it gradually with a very little
water (too much water will make it tough)
and mix it well with the poiut of a large
case-knife. Do not touch it with your
hands. When the dough gets iuto a lump,
sprinkle on the middle of the board some
of the flour that you laid aside, and lay the
dough upon it, turning it out of the pan
with the knife.
Rub the rolling-pin with flour, and sprin-
kle a little on the lump of paste. Roll it
out thin, quickly, and evenly, pressing on
the rolling-pin very lightly. Then take
the second of the four pieces of butter, and,
with the poiut of your knife, stick it in
little bits at equal distances all over the
sheet of paste. Sprinkle on some flour,
and fold up the dough. Flour the paste-
board and rolling-pin again ;v throw a little
flour on the paste and roll it out a second
time. Stick the third piece of batter all
over it in little bits. Throw on some flour,
fold up the paste, sprinkle a little more
flour on the dough, and on the rolling-pin,
and roll it out a third time, always pressing
on it lightly Stick it over with the fourth
and last piece of butter. Throw on a little
more flour, fold up the paste and then roll
it out in a large round sheet. Cut off the
sides, so as to make the sheet of a square
form, and lay the slips of dough upon the
square sheet. Fold it up with the small
pieces of trimmings, in the inside. Score
or notch it a little with the knife; lay it
on a plate and set it away in a cool place,
but not where it can freeze, as that will
make it heavy.
Having made the paste, prepare and mix
your pudding or pie. When the mixture
is fimshed, bring out your paste, flour the
board and rolling-pin, and roll it out with
a short quick stroke, and pressing the rol-
ling-pin rather harder than while you were
putting the butter in. If the paste rises in
blisters, it will be light, unless spoiled in
baking.
Then cut the sheet m half, fold up each
piece and roll them out once more, separ-
ately, in round sheets the size of your plate
Press on rather harder, but not too hard
Roll the sheets thinuest in the middle and
thickest at the edges. If iutended for pud-
dings, lay them in buttered soup-plates, and
trim them evenly round the edges. If the
edges do not appear thick enough, you may
take the trimmings, put them all together,
roll them out, and having cut them m slips
the breadth of the rim of the plate, lay
them all round to make the paste thicker
at the edges, joining them nicely and even-
ly, as every patch or crack will appear dis-
tmctly when baked. Notch the rim hand-
somely with a very sharp knife. Fill the
dish with the mixture of the pudding, and
bake it in a moderate oven. The paste
should be of a light brown color. If the
oven is too slow, it will be soft and clammy;
if too quick, it will not have time to rise
as high as it ought to do.
In making the best puff-paste, try to avoid
using more flour to sprinkle and roll with,
than the small portion which you have laid
aside for that purpose at the beginuing.
If you make the dough too soft at first, by
using too much water, it will be sticky, and
require more flour, and will eveutually be
tough when baked. Do not put your hands
to it, as their warmth will injure it. Use
the knife instead. Always roll from you
rather than to you, and press lightly on the
rolling-pin, except at the last.
It is difficult to make puff-paste in the
summer, unless in a cellar, or very cool
room, and on a marble table. The butter
should, if possible, be washed the night
before, and kept covered with ice till you
use it next day. The water should have
ice m it, and the butter should be iced as it
sets on the paste-board. After the paste is
mixed, it should be put in a covered dish,
and set in cold water till you are ready to
give it the last rolling.
With all these precautions to preveut its
being heavy, it will not rise as well, or be
in any respect as good as in cold weather.
The handsomest way of ornameuting the
edge of a pie or pudding is to cut the run
in large square notches, and then fold over
triangularly one corner of every notch.


PIES AND TARTS 5
COMMON PASTE FOR PIES.
A pound and a half of sifted flour.
Three quarters of a pound of butter, washed.
This will make one large pie or two small
onesi
Sift the flour into a pan. Cut the butter
into two equal parts. Cut one half of the
butter into the flour, and cut it up as small
as possible. Mix it well with the flour,
wetting it gradually with a little cold
water.
Spread some flour on your paste-board,
take the lump of paste out of the pan,
flour your rolling-pin, and roll out the paste
into a large sheet. Then stick it over with
the remaining half of the butter in small
pieces, and laid at equal distances. Throw
on a little flour, fold up the sheet of paste,
flour it slightly, and roll it out again.
Then fold tt up, and cut it in half or in
four, according to the size of your ptes.
Roll it out into round sheets the size of
your pie-plates, pressing rather harder on
the rolling-pin.
Butter your pie-plates, lay on your under
crust, and trim the edge. Fill the dish
with the ingredients of which the pie is
composed, and lay on the lid, in which you
must prick some holes, or cut a small slit
in the top. Crimp the edges with a shatp
knife.
Heap up the ingredients so that the pie
will be highest in the middle.
Some think it makes common paste more
crisp and light, to beat it hard on both sides
with the rolling-pin, after you give it the
first rolling, when all the butter is in.
If the butter is very fret.it, you may mix
with the flour a salt-spoonful of salt
PIES AND TARTS.
MINCE PIES.
Two pounds of boiled beePs heart, or fresh
tongue, or lean fresh beef—chopped when
cold.
Two pounds of beef suet, chopped fine.
Four pounds of pippin apples, chopped.
Two pounds of raisins, stoned and chopped.
Two pounds of currants, picked, washed,
and drted.
Two pounds of powdered sugar.
One quart of white wine.
One quart of brandy.
One wine-glass of rose-water.
Two grated nutmegs.
Half an ounce of cinuamon j
A quarter of an ounce of cloves > powdered.
A quarter of an ounce of mace'
A tea-spoonful of salt.
Two large oranges.
Half a pcmd of citron, cut in slips.
Parboil a beef's heart, or a fresh tongue.
After you have taken off the skin and fat,
weigh two pounds. When it is cold, chop
it very fine. Take the inside of the suet;
weigh two pounds, and chop it as fme as
possible. Alix the meat and suet together,
adding the salt. Pare, core, and chop the
qpples, and then stone and chop the raisins.
Having prepared the currants, add them to
the other fruit, and mix the fruit with the
meat and suet. Put in the sugar and spice,
and the grated peel and juice of the oranges.
Wet the whole with the rose water and
liquor, and mix all well together.
Do not put in the citron till you are fill-
ing the pies: then lav it on the top.
Make the paste, allowing for each pie,
half a pound of butter and three quarters
of a pound of sifted flour. Make it in the
same manuer as puff-paste, but it will not
be quite so rich. Lay a sheet of paste all
over a soup-plate. Ftll it with mince-meat,
laying slips of citron on the top. Roll out
a sheet of paste, for the lid of the pie.
Put it on, and crimp the edges with a knife.
Prick holes in the lid.
Bake the pies half an hour in a brisk
oven. —
Keep your mince meat in a jar tightly
covered. Set it in a dry, cool place, and
occasionally add more brandy to it.
Instead of the heart or tongue, you may,
if you choose, use part of a round of fresh
beef.
OYSTER PIE.
A hundred large fresh oysters, or more if
small.
The yolks of six eggs boiled hard.
A large slice of stale-breud, grated.
A tea-spoonful of salt.
A table-spoonful of pepper.
A table-spoonful of mixed spice, nutmeg,
mace and cinuamon.
Take a large round dish, butter it, and
spread a rich paste over the sides, and
round the edge, bur not at the bottom.


PUDDINGS.
t
pine-apple with the sugar, and set it away
m a covered dish till sufficient juice is
drawn out to stew the fruit in.
Make and bake two shells of puff-paste
in soup-plates.
Stew the pine-apple in the sugar and
juice till quite soft; then mash it to a mar-
malade with the back of a spoon, and set
it away to cool.
When the shells are baked and cool,
mix the pine-apple with half a pint of
cream, and ftll the shells with it. Grate
loaf-sugar over the top.
These tarts are very fine. %
If your pine-apple is not of the largest
size, one will not be sufficient for two
tarts.
PEACH TART.
Take ripe juicy free-stone peaches, pare
them, and cut them into small pieces; of
course leave out the stones, half of which
must be cracked, and the kernels blanched
and mixed with the peaches. Mix in a
sufficient quantity of sugar to make them
very sweet, and set the peaches away till
the sugar draws out the juice. Then
stew them (without water) till quite softi.
Take them out, mash them with the back
of a spoon, and set them away to cool.
Have ready some shells of fine puff-paste,
baked of a light brown. When cool, put
the peaches into the shells; having first
mixed the stewed fruit with some cream.
Grate white sugar over them.
You may substitute for the kernels a
handful of fresh peach-leaves, stewed with
the fruit and then taken out. The kernels
or leaves will greatly .improve the flavor of
the peaches.
Peach-leaves may be kept fresh in water
for two or three days.
BEEF-STEAK PIE.
Butter a deep dish, and spread a sheet
of paste all over the bottom, sides, and
edge.
Cut away from your beef-steak all the
bone, fat, gristle, and skin. Cut the lean
in small thm pieces, about as large, gener-
ally, as the palm of your hand. Beat the
meat well with the rolling-pin, to make it
juicy and tender. If you put in the fat, it
will make the gravy too greasy and strong,
as it canuot be skimmed.
Put a layer of meat over the bottom-crust
of your dish, and season it to your taste,
with pepper, salt, and, if you choose, a
little nutmeg. A small quantity of mush-
room ketchup is an improvement; so also,
is a little minced onion.
Have ready some cold boiled potatoes
sliced thin. Spread over the meat a layer
of potatoes, and a small piece of butter;
then another layer of meat, seasoned, and
then a layer of potatoes, and so on till the
dish is full and heaped up in the middle,
having a layer of meat on the top. Pour
in a ltttle water.
Cover the pie with a sheet of paste, and
trim the edges. Notch it handsomely with
a knife; and, if you choose, make a tulip
of paste, and stick it in the middle of the
lid, and lay leaves of paste round it.
Fresh oysters will greatly improve a
beef-steak pie. So also will mushrooms.
Any meat pie may be made in a similar
manuer.
PUDDINGS.
PLUM PUDDING.
One pound of raisins, stoned and cut in
half.
One peund of currants, picked, washed and
dried.
One pound of beef suet chopped fine.
One pound of grated stale bread, or, half a
pound of flour and half a pound of bread.
Eight eggs.
One pound of sugar.
A glass of brandy,
A pint of milk.
A glass of wine.
Two nutmegs, grated.
A table-spoonful of mixed cinnamon and
mace.
A salt-spoonful of salt.
You must prepare all your ingredients
the day before (except beating the eggs)
that in the morning you may have no thmg
to do but to mix them, as the pudding will
require six hours to boil.
Beat the eggs'very light, then put to them
half the milk and beat both together. Stir
in gradually the flour and grated bread.
Next add the sugar by degrees. Then the
2t?


PUDDINGS.
11
the eggs, and when the milk is cold, stir
them into it, in turn with the bread and
sugar. A'M the lemon-peel, and if you
choose a table-spoonful of rose-water.
Bake it in a buttered dish, and grate
nutmeg over it when done. Do not send
it to table hot. Baked puddings should
never be eaten till they have become cold,
or at least cool.
RICE PUDDING.
A quarter of a pound of rice.
A quarter of a pound of butter,
A quarter of a pound of sugar.
A pint and a .talf of milk, or cream and
milk.
Six eggs.
A tea-spoonful of mixed spice, mace, nut-
meg and cinuamon.
A half wine-glass of rose-water.
Wash the rice. Boil it till very soft.
Drain it, and set it away to get cold. Put
the butter and sugar together in a pan, and
stir them till very light. Add to them the
spice and rose-water. Beat the eggs very
light, and stir them, gradually, into the
uulk. Then stir the eggs and milk into
the butter and sugar, alternately with the
rice.
Bake it and grate nutmeg over the top.
Currants or raisins, floured, and stirred
in at the last, will greatly improve it.
It should be eaten cold, or quite cool.
GROUND RICE PUDDING.
Take five table-spoonfuls of ground rice
and boil it in a quart of new milk, with a
grated nutmeg or a tea-spoonful of pow-
dered cinuamon, stirring it all the time.
When it has boiled, pour it into a pan and
stir in a quarter of a pound of butter, and
a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, a
nutmeg and half a pint of cream. Set it
away to get cold. Then beat eight eggs,
omitting the whites of four. Have ready
a half pound of dried currants well cleaned,
and sprinkled with flour; stir them into
the mtxture alternately with the beaten egg.
Add half a glass of rose-water, or half a
glass of mixed wine and brandy. Butter
a deep dish, put in the mixture, and bake
tt of a pale brown. Or you may bake it
in saucers.
CHICKEN PUDDING.
Cut up a pair of young chickens, and
MOD them with pepper and salt and a
little mace and nutmeg. Put them into a
pot with two large spoonfuls of butter, and
water enough to cover them. Stew them
gently; and when about half cooked, take
them out and set them away to cool. Pour
off the gravy, and reserve it to be served
up separately.
In the meantime, make a batter as if
for a pudding, of a pound of sifted flour
stirred gradually into a quart of milk, six
eggs well beaten and added by degrees to
the mixture, and a very little salt. Put a
layer of chicken in the bottom of a deep
dish, and pour over it some of the hatter;
then another layer of chicken, and then
some more batter; and so on till the dish
is full, having a cover of batter at the top.
Bake it till it is brown. Then break an
egg into the gravy which you have set
away, give it a boil, and send it to table in
a sauce-boat to eat wtth the pudding.
BOSTON PUDDING.
Make a good common paste with a pound
and a half of flour, and three quarters of
a pound of butter.* When you roll it out
the last time, cut off the edges, till you get
the sheet of paste of an even square shape.
Have ready some fruit-sweetened to your
taste. If cranberries, gooseberries, dried
peaches, or damsons, they should be stew-
ed, and made very sweet. If apples, they
should lie stewed in a very little water,
drained, and seasoned with nutmeg, rose-
water and lemon. If currants, raspberries,
or blackberries, they should be mushed with
sugar, and put into the pudding raw.
Spread the fruit very thick, all over the
sheet of paste, (which must not be rolled
out too thin.) When it is covered all over
with the fruit, roll it up, and'close the
dough at both ends, and down the last side.
Tie the pudding in a cloth and boil it.
Eat it with sugar. It must not be taken
out of the pot ttll just before it is brought
to table.
FRITTERS.
Seven eggs.
Half a pint of milk.
A salt-spoonful of salt.
Suflicient flour to make a thick batter.
Beat the eggs well and stir them gradu-
ally into the milk. Add the salt, and stir
* Or three quarters of a pound of beef-suet,
chopped very tlne. Mlx the suet at once wlth
the flour, knead lt wlth cold water lnto a sthT
dough, and then roll lt out lnto a large thln
sheet. Fold lt up and roM M ^g^ilL


19
CUSTARDS, CURDS, AND CREAMS.
in flour enough to make a thick batter.
They must set an hour to rise.
Fry them in lard, and serve them up hot.
Eat them with wine and sugar.
They are improved by stirring in a ta-
ele-*poonful of yeast.
These are excellent with the addition of
cold stewed apple, stirred into the mixture,
in which case use less flour.
Oyster Fritters are made by putting a
lar^e oyster in the middle of each fritter,
whtle frying. They are very fine.
A CHEESE-CAKE.
Four eggs.
Half a pint of milk.
A quarter of a pound of butter.
A quarter of a pound of powdered sugar.
Two ounces of grated bread.
A table-spoonful of mixed brandy and wine.
A tea-spoonful of rose-water.
A ten-spoonful of mace, cinuamon, and
nutmeg, mixed.
A quarter of a pound of currants.
Pick the currants very clean. Wash
them through a colander, wipe them in a
towel, and then dry them on a dish before
the Hre.
When dry take out a few to scatter over
the top of the cheese-cake, lay them aside,
and sprinkle the remainder of the currant*
with the flour.
Stir the butter and sugar to a cream.
Grate the bread, and prepare the spice.
Beat the eggs very light.
Botl the milk. When it comes to a boil,
add to it half the beaten egg, and boil both
together till it becomes a curd, stirring it
frequently with a knife. Then throw the
grated bread on the curd, and stir all toge-
ther. Then take the milk, egg, and bread
off tin: fire, and stir it, gradually, into the
butter and sugar. Next, stir in the re-
maining half of the egg.
Add, by degrees, the liquor and spice.
Lastly, stir in, gradually, the currants.
Have ready a puff-paste, which should
be made before you prepare the cheese-cake,
as the mixture will become heavy by stand-
ing. Before you put it into the oven, scat-
ter the remainder of the currants over the
top.
Bake it half au hour in rather a quick
oven.
Do not sugar the top. i
You may bake it either in a soup-plate,
or in two small tin patty-pans, which, for
cheese-cakes, should be of a square shape.
If baked in square patty-pans leave at each
side a flap of paste in the shape of a half-
circle. Cut long slits in these flaps and
turn them over, so that they will rest on
the top of the mixture.
You can, if you choose, add to the cur-
rants a few raisins stoned, and cut in half.
CUSTARDS, CURDS, AND CREAMS.
FINE CUSTARDS.
A quart of milk or cream.
The yolks only, of sixteen eggs.
Six ounces of powdered whtte sugar.
Half an ounce of cinuamon, broken in small
pieces.
A large handful of peach-leaves, or half an
ounce of peach-kernels or bitter almonds,
broken in pieces.
A table-spoonful of rose-water.
A nutmeg.
Boil in the milk the cinnamon and the
peach-leaves, or peach-kernels. When it
bas boiled, set it away to get cold. As
soon as it is cold, strain it through a sieve,
to clear it from the cinuamon, peach-leaves,
1 &c. and stir into it, gradually, the sugar,
spice, and rose- water.
Beat the yolks of sixteen eggs very light,
and stir them by degrees into the milk,
wh,ich must be quite cold or the eggs will
make it curdle, Put the custards into cups,
and set them in a baking-pan, half filled
with water. When baked, grate some nut-
meg over each, and ice them. Make the
icing of the whites of eight eggs, a large
tea-spoonful of powdered loaf-sugar, and
six drops of essence of lemon, beaten all
together tilI it stands alone. Pile up some
of the icing on the top of each custard,
heaping it high. Put a spot of red nonpa-
reils on the middle of the pile of icing.
K _ W
If the weather be damp, or the eggs not
new-laid, more tnan eight whites will be
required for the icing.


CUSTARDS, CURDS, AND CREAMS.
13
PLAIN CUSTARDS.
A quart of rich milk.
Eight eggs.
A quarter of a pound of powdered sugar.
A handful of peach-leaves, or half an ounce
of peach-kernels, broken in pieces.
A nutmeg.
Boil the peach-leaves or kernels in the
milk, and set it away to cool. When cold,
strain out the leaves or kernels, and stir in
the sugar. Beat the eggs very light, and
stir them gradually into the milk, wheu it
is quite cold. Bake it in cups, or in a
large white dish.
When cool, grate nutmeg'over the top.
COLD CUSTARDS.
A quart of new milk, and a half a pint of
cream, mtxed.
A quarter pound of powdered white sugar.
A iarge glass of white wine, in which an
inch of washed renuet has been soaked.
A nutmeg.
Mix together the milk, cream, and su-
gar. Stir the wine into it, and pour the
mixture into your custard-cups. Set them
in a warm place near the fire, till they be-
come a firm curd. Then set them on ice,
or in a very cold place. Grate nutmeg over
Ihem.
ALMOND CUSTARD.
One pint of cream.
One pint of rich milk.
Half a pound of shelled sweet almonds.
Two cunces of shelled bitter almonds.
Four table-spoonfuls of rose-water.
A quarter of a pound of white sugar.
The yolks of eight eggs.
A little oil of lemon.
Blanch the almonds and pound them to
a paste, mixing the rose-water gi adually
with them. Powder the sugar, and beat
the yolk of egg till very light. Mix the
cream and milk together, and stir into it
gradually the sugar, the pounded almonds,
and the beaten yulk of egg. Then stir the
whole very hard. Put the mixture into a
skillet or sauce-pan, and set it in a heated
stove, or on a charcoal furnace. Stir it
one way till it becomes thick, but take it
off the fire before it has been long enough
to curdle. Set it away to get cold. Take
half the whites of the eggs, and beat them
to a stiff froth, adding a little powdered
sugar, and a few drops of oil of lemon
(the latter in proportton to its strength.)
Put the custard into a glass dish or bow l,
and heap the frothed white of egg upon it.
You may ornament the top with nonpareils
or sugar-sand.
Or you may put it in small cups, piling
some froth on each.
RICE CUSTARDS.
Half a pound of rice.
Half a pound of raisins or currants.
Eight yolks of eggs or six whole eggs.
Six ounces of powdered sugar.
A quart of rich milk.
A handful of peach-leaves, or half an ounce
of peach-kernels, broken in pieces.
Half an ounce of cinuamon, broken in pieces
Boil the rice with the raisins or currants,
which, must first be floured. Butter some
cups or a mould, and when the rice is quite
soft, drain it, and put it into them. Set it
away to get cold.
Beat the eggs well. Boil the milk with
the cinuamon and peach-leaves, or kernels.
As soon as it has come to a boil, take it
off and strain it through a sieve- Then
set it again on the fire, stir into it alter-
nately, the egg and sugar, taking it off fre-
quently and stirring it hard, lest it become
a curd. Take care not to boil it too long,
or it will be lumpy and lose its flavor.
When done, set it away to cool. Turn out
the rice from the cups or mould, into a
deep dish. Pour some of the boiled cus-
tard over it, and send up the remainder of
the custard in a sauce-boat.
You may, if you choose, ornament the
lumps of rice, (after the custard is poured
round them) by making a stiff froth of
white of egg (beaten till it stands alone)
and a few drops of essence of lemon, with
a very little powdered loaf-sugar. Heap
the froth on the top of each lump of rice.
CURDS AND WHEY.
Take a small piece of renuet about two
inches square. Wash it very clean in cold
water, to get all the salt off, and wipe it
dry. Put it in a tea-cup, and pour on it
just enough of lukewarm water to cover it.
Let it set all night, or for several hours.
Then take out the renuet, and stir the
water in which it was soaked, into a quart
of milk, which should be in a broad
dish.
Set the milk in a warm place, till it be-
comes a firm curd. As soon as the curd
, is completely made, set it in a cool place


CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD.
15
fill your glasses; but not till a few minutes i Having beaten the eggs well, add to them
before you want to use it, as it will very cwo table-spoonfuls of cold milk, and pour
soon melt. them into the boiling milk. Let them shn-
You may heighten the color of the red me,' two or three minutes, sttrring them all
fruit, by a little cochineal. the time. Then take the mixture off the
If you wish lo have it in moulds, put the fire and strain it through book-muslin into
cream into them as soon as it has frozen in a pan. Add the cream and the remainder
the tin. Set the moulds in a tub of ice of the milk, and put the whole into the tin
and salt. Just before you want to use the freezer, which must be set in a tub tilled
cream, take the moulds out of the tub, with ice, among which must be scattered a
wipe or wash the salt carefully from the great deal of salt.
outside, dip the moulds in lukewarm water, Squeeze the juice from the two lemons
and turn out the cream.
You may flavor a quart of ice-cream
with two ounces of sweet almonds and one
ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and
beaten in a mortar with a little rose-water
to a smooth paste. Stir in the almonds
gradually while the cream is freezing.
ANOTHER KIND OF ICE-CREAM.
A pint and a half of rich cream.
A quart and a half-pint of morning's milk.
One pound of loaf-sugar.
Two eggs.
One table-spoonful of flour.
Two lemons.
Or half a Vanilla bean, split into small
pieces.
Or two ounces of sweet almonds and one
ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and
split into pieces.
Take half of the milk and put in the
ingredient that is to flavor it, either the
vanilla, the almonds, or the grated rind of
the lemons. Boil it, stirring in gradually
the sugar.
CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS.
In making cakes, it is particularly necessary that the eggs should
be well beaten. They are not sufficiently light till the surface
looks smooth and level, and till they get so thick as to be of the
consistence of boiled custard.
White of egg should always be beaten till it become a heap of
stiff froth, without any liquid at the bottom; and till it hangs from
the rods or fork without dropping.
Eggs become light soonest when new-laid, and when beaten
near the fire, or in warm dry weather.
Butter and sugar should be stirred till it looks like thick cream,
and till it stands up in the pan.
ana sttr tt mto the cream, uy degrees,
while it is freezing.
When it is all frozen, turn it out, first
dipping the tin for a moment in warm water.
If you wish to flavor it with strawberry
or raspberry juice, that, like the lemon-
juice, must be stirred gradually in while
the cream is freezing.
In places where cream is not abundant,
this receipt (though inferior in richness)
will be found more economical than the
preceding one. It is, however, less easy
and expeditious.
FLOATING ISLAND.
Six whites of eggs.
Six large table-spoonfuls of jelly.
A pint of cream, sweetened with loaf-sugar.
Put the jelly and white of egg into a
pan, and beat it together with a whisk, till
it becomes a stiff froth and stands alone.
Have ready the cream, in a broad shal-
low dish. Just before you send it to table,
pile up the froth in the centre of tfw
cream.
27


CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD.
17
mixture very hard. Add by degrees, the
spice, and then the liquor, a little at a
time. Finally, put in the rose-water, or
essence of lemon. Stir the whole very hard
at the last.
Take about two dozen little tins, or
more, if you have room for them in the
oven. Rub them very well with fiesh but-
ter. With a spoon, put some of the mix-
ture in each tin, but do nut 611 them to the
top as the cakes will rise high in baking.
Bake them in a quick oven, about a quar-
ter of an hour. When they are done, they
vt ill shrink a little from the sides of the tins.
Before you fill the tins again, scrape
them well with a knife, and wash or wipe
them clean.
If the cakes are scorched by too hot a
fire, do not scrape off the burnt parts till
they have grown cold.
Make an icing with the whites of three
eggs, beaten till it stands alone, and twen-
ty-four tea-spoonfuls of the best loaf-sugar,
powdered, and beaten gradually into the
white of egg. Flavor it with a tea-spoon-
ful of rose-water or etght drops of essence
of lemon, stirred in at the last. Spread
it evenly with a broad knife, over the top
of each queen-cuke, ornamenting them,
(while the icing is quite wet) with red
ahd green nonpareils, or fine sugar-sand,
dropped on, carefully, with the thumb and
finger.
When the cakes are iced, set them in a
warm place to dry; but not too near the
fire, as that will cause the icing to crack.
You may color icing of a fme pink, by
mixing with it a few drops of liquid cochi-
neal, which is prepared by boiling very
slowly in an earthen or china vessel twenty
grains of cochineal powder, twenty grains
of cream of tartar, and twenty grains of
powdered alum, all dissolved in a gill of
soft water, and boiled till reduced to one
half. Strain it and cork it up in a small
phial. Pink icing should be on. t men ted
with white nonpareils.
In buying essence or oil of lemon, en-
deavor to gut that which ts white, it being
much the strongest a.id best. When it
looks greenish, tt is generally very weak,
so that when used, a double or treble quan-
tity is necessary.
ALMOND CAKE.
Two ounces of blanched bitter almonds,
pounded very fine.
Seven ounces of door, sifted and dried.
Ten eggs.
One pound loaf-sugar, powdered and sifted.
Two table-spoonfuls of rose-water.
Take two ounces of shelled bitter al-
Konds, or peach-kerne la. Scald them in
hot water, and as you peel them, throw
them into a bowl of cold water, then wipe
them dry, and pound them one by one in a
mortar, till they are quite fine and smooth.
Break ten eggs, putting the yolks in one
pan and the whttes in another. Beat them
separately as light as possible, the whites
first, and then the yolks.
Add the sugar, gradually, to the yolks,
beating it in very hard. Then by degrees,
beat in the almonds, and then add the rose-
water.
Stir half the whites of the eggs into the
yolks and sugar. Divide the flour into
two equal parts, and stir in one half, slowly
and lightly, till it bubbles on the top.
Then the other half of the white of egg,
and then the remainder of the flour very
lightly.
Butter a large square tin pan, or one
made of paste-board which will be better.
Put in the mixture, and set immediately in
a quick oven, which must be rather hotter
at the bottom than at the top. Bake it
according to the thickness. If you allow
the oven to get slacka the cake will be
spoiled.
Make an icing with the whites of three
eggs, twenty-four tea-spoonfuls of loaf-su-
gar, and eight drops of essence of lemon.
When the cake is cool, mark it in small
squares with a knife. Cover it with icing,
and ornament it while wet, with nonpareils
dropped on in borders, round each square
of the cake. When the icing is dry, cut
the cake in squares, cutting through the
icing very carefully with a penknife. Or
you may cut it in squares first, and then
ice and ornament each square separately.
Eat it while fresh.
POUND CAKE.
One pounJ of flour, sifted.
One pound of white sugar, powdered and
sifted.
One pound of fresh butter.
Ten eggs.
Half a glass of wine \
Half a glass of brandy > mixed.
Half a glass of rose-water'
Twelve drops of essence of lemon.
A table-spoonful of mixed mace and cin-
namon.
A nutmeg, powdered.
Pound the spice and sift it. There
should be twice as much cinuamon as mace.
Mix the cinuamon, mace, and nutmeg to-
gether. ,
Sift the flour in a broad pan, or wooden
bowl. Sift the powdered sugar into a
large deep pan, and cut the butter into it,
in small pieces. If tJte weather is very


18
CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD.
cold, and the butter hard, set the pan near
the fire for a few minutes; hut if the butter
ts too warm, the cake will be heavy. Stir
the butter and sug.tr together, with a wood-
en stick, till they are very hght, and white,
ami look like cream.
Beat the eggs in a broad shallow pan
with a wooden egg-lieater or whisk. They
must be beaten till they are thick and
smooth, and of the consistence of boiled
custard.
Pour the liquor and rose-water, gradual-
ly, into the butter and suga>, stirring all
the time. Add, by degrees, the essence
of lemon and spice.
Stir the egg and flour alternately into the
butter and sugar, a handful of flour, and
abiut two spoonfuls of the egg (which you
must continue to beat all the time,) and
when all is in, stir the whole mixture very
hard, for near ten minutes.
Butter a large tin pan, or a cake mould
with an open tube rising from the middle.
Put the mixture into it as evenly as possi-
ble. Bake it in a moderate oven, for two,
or three, or four hours, in proportion to its
thickness, and to the heat of the fire.
When you think it is nearly done, thrust
a twig or wooden skewer into it, down to
the bottom. If the stick comes out clean
and dry, the cake is almost baked. When
quite done, it will shrink from the sides of
the pan, and cease making a noise. Then
withdraw the coals (if baked in a dutch
oven) take off the lid, and let the cake
remain in the oven to cool gradually.
You may ice it either warm or cold.
Before you put the icing on a large cake,
dredge the cake all over with flour, and
then wipe the flour off; this will make the
icing stick on better—If you have sufficient
time, the appearance of the cake will lie
much improved by icing it twice. Put on
the first icing soon after the cake is taken
out of the oven, and the second the next
day when the first is perfectly dry. While
I he last icing is wet, ornament it with co-
lored sugar-sand or nonpareils.
SPONGE CAKE.
Twelve eggs.
Ten ounces sifted flour, dried near the fire.
A pound of loaf sugar, powdered and sifted.
Twelve drops of essence of lemon.
A grated nutmeg.
A tea-spoonful of powdered cinuamon and
mace, mixed.
Beat the eggs as light as possible. Eggs
for sponge or almond cakes require more
beating than for any other purpose. Beat
the sugar, by degrees, into the eggs. Beat
rery hard, and continue to beat some time
after the sugar is all in.
No sort of sugar but loaf, will make light
sponge-cake. Stir in, gradually, the spice
and essence of lemon. Then, by degrees,
put in the flour, a little at a time, sttrring
round the mixture very slowly with a knife.'
If the flour is stirred in too hard, the cake
will be tough. It must be done lightly and
gently, so that the top of the mixture will
be covered with bubbles. As soon as the
flour is all in, begin to bake it, as setting
will injure it.
Put it in small tins, well buttered, or in
one large tin pan. The thinuer the pans,
the better for sponge-cake. Fill the small
tins about half full. Grate loaf-sugar over
the top of each, before you set them in the
oven.
Sponge-cake requires a very quick oven,
particularly at the bottom. It should be
baked as fast as possible, or it will be tough
and heavy, however light it may have been
before it went into the oven. It is of all
cakes the most liable to be spoiled in bak-
ing. When taken out of the tins, the cakes
should be spread on a sieve to cool. If
baked in one large cake, it should be iced.
A large cake of twelve eggs, should be
baked at least an hour in a quick oven.
For small cakes, ten minutes is generally
sufftcient. If they get very much out of
shape in baking, it is a sigu that the oven
is too slow.
Some think that sponge-cakes and al-
mond cakes are lighter, when the yolks and
whites of the eggs are beaten in separate
pans, and mixed gently together before the
sugar is beaten into them.
If done separately from the yolks, the
whites should be beaten till they stand alone
Sponge-cake is best the day it is baked.
BLACK CAKE, OR PLUM CAKE.
One pound of flour sifted.
One pound of fresh butter.
One pound of powdered white sugar.
Twelve eggs.
Two pounds of the best raisins.
Two pounds of currants.
Two table-spoonfuls of mixed spice, mace
and cinuamon.
Two nutmegs powdered.
A lai ge glass of wine ^
A hu ge glass of brandy > mixed together.
Half a glass of rose-water'
A pound of citron.
Pick the currants very clean, and wash
them, draining them through a colander.
Wipe them in a towel. Spread them out
on a large dish, and set them near the fire,
or in the hot sun to dry, placing the dish
in a slanting position. Having stoned the


CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD.
19
raisins, cut them in half, mtd when all are
done, sprinkle them well with sifted flour,
to prevent their sinking to the bottom of
the cake. When the currants are dry,
sprinkle them also with flour.
Pound the spice, allowing twice as much
cinuamon as mace. Sift tt, and mix the
mace, nutmeg, and cinuamon together.
Mix also the liquor and rose-water in a
tumbler or cup. Cut the citron in slips.
Sift the flour into a broad dish. Sift the
sugar into a deep earthen pan, and cut the
butter into it. Warm it near the fire, if
the weather is too cold for it Jo mix
easily. Stir the butter and sugar to a
cream. .
Beat the eggs as light as possible. Stir
them into the butter and sugar, alternately
with the flour. Stir very hard. Add
gradually the spice and liquor. Stir the
raisins and currants alternately into the
mixture, taking care that they are well
floured. Stir the whole as hard as possi-
ble, for ten minutes after the ingredients
are in.
Cover the bottom and sides of a large
tin or earthen pan, with sheets of white
paper well buttered, and put into it some
of the mixture. Then spread on it some
of the cttron, which must not be cut too
small. Next put a layer of the mixture,
and then a layer of citron, and so on till
it is all in, having a layer of the mixture
at the top.
This cake is always best baked in a
baker's oven, and will require four or five
hours, in proportion to its thickness.
After this cake is done, it will be the
better for withdrawing the fire (if baked
in an iron oven) and letting it stay in the
oven all night, or till it gets quite cold.
Ice it, next day.
FRENCH ALMOND CAKE.
Six ounces of shelled sweet almonds.
Three ounces of shelled bitter almonds, or
peach-kernels.
Three ounces sifted flour, dried near the fire.
Fourteen eggs.
One pound of powdered loaf-sugar.
Twelve drops of essence of lemon.
Blanch the almonds, by scalding them in
hot water. Put lhcm m a bowl of cold
water, and wipe them dry, when you take
them out. Pound them, one at a time, in
a mortar, till they are perfectly smooth.
Mix the sweet and bitter almonds together.
Prepare them, if possible, the day before
the cake is made. While pounding the
almonds, pour in occasionally a little rose-
water. It makes them much lighter.
Put the whites and yolks of the eggs,
into separate pans. Beat the whites till
the)' stand alone, and then the yolks till
they are very thick.
Put the sugar, gradually, to the yolks,
beating it in very hard. Add, by degrees,
the almonds, still beating very hard. Then
put in the essence of lemon. Next, beat
in, gradually, the whites of the eggs, con-
tinuing to beat for some time after they
are all in. Lastly, stir in the flour, as
slowly and lightly, as possible.
Butter a large tin mould or pan. Put
the cake in and bake it in a very quick
oven, an hour or more according to its
thickness.
The oven must on no account be hotter
at the top, than at the bottom.
When done, set it on a sieve to cool.
Ice it, and ornament it with nonpareils.
These almond cakes are generally baked
in a turban-shaped mould, and the nonpa-
reils put on, in spots or sprigs.
This cake eats best the day it is baked.
A pound of almonds in the shells (if the
shells are soft and thin,) wtll generally
yield half a pound when shelled. Hard,
thick-shelled almonds, seldom yield much
more than a quarter of a pound, and should
therefore never be bought for cakes or pud-
dings.
Bitter almonds and peach-kernels can
always he purchased with the shells off.
Families should always save their peach-
kernels, as they can be used in cakes, pud-
dings and custards.
MACAROONS.
Half a pound of shelled sweet almonds.
A quarter pound of shelled bitter almonds
The whites of three eggs.
Twenty-four large tea-spoonfuls of powder-
ed loaf-sugar.
A tea-spoonful of rose-water.
A large tea-spoonful of mixed spice, nut
meg, mace and cinuamon.
Blanch and pound your almonds, beat
them very smooth, and mix the sweet and
bitter together; do them, if you can, the
clay before you make the macaroons.
Pound and sift your spice. Beat the
whites of three eggs till they stand alone;
add to them, very gradually, the powdered
sugar, a spoonful at a time, beat tt in very
hard, and put in, by degrees, the rose-water
and spice. Then stir in, gradually, the
almonds'. The mixture must be>ltkc u soft
dough; if too thick, it will be heavy; if
too thin, it will run out of shape. If you
find your almonds not sufficient, prepare a
27.


20
CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD.
few more, and stir them in. When it is
all well mixed and stirred, put some flour
in the palm of your hand, and taking up a
lump of the mixture with a knife, roll it on
your hand with the flour into a small round
ball; have ready an iron or tin pan, but-
tered, and lay the macaroons in tt, as you
make them up. Place them about two
inches apart, in case of their spreading.
Bake them about eight or ten minutes in a
moderate oven; they should be baked of a
pale brown color. If too much baked,
they will lose their flavor; if too little,
they will be heavy. Let the top of the
oven be hotter than the bottom. They
should rise high in the middle, and crack
on the surface. You may, if you choose,
put a larger proportion of spice.
Cocoa-nut cakes may be made in a similar
manuer, substituting for the pounded al-
monds half a pound of finely grated cocoa-
nut. They must be made into small round
balls with a little flour laid on the palm of
the hand, and baked a few minutes. They
are very fine.
APEES.
A pound of flour, sifted.
Half a pound of butter.
Half a glass of wine, and a table-spoon ful of
rose-water, mixed.
Halfa pound of powdered white sugar.
A nutmeg, grated.
A tea-spoonful of beaten cinuamon and
mace.
Three table-spoonfuls of carraway seeds.
Sift the flour into a broad pan, and cut
up the butter in it. Add the carraways,
sugar, and spice, and pour in the liquor
by degrees, mixing it well with a knife:
and add enough of cold water to make
it a stiff dough. Spread some flour on
your pasteboard, take out the dough, and
knead it very well with your, hands. Cut
it into small pieces, and knead each sepa-
rately, then put them all together, and
knead the whole in one lump. Roll it out
in a sheet about a quarter of an inch thick.
Cut it out in round cakes, with the edge of
a tumbler, or a tin of that size. Butter an
iron pan, and lay the cakes in it, not too
close together. Bake them a few minutes
m a moderate oven, till they are very
slightly colored, but not brown. If too
much baked, they will entirely lose their
flavor Do not roll them out too thin.
The top of the oven should be hotter
than the bottom, or the cakes will lose thelr
shape.
JUMBLES.
Three eggs.
Half a pound of flour, sifted.
Half a pound of butter.
Half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar.
A table-spoonful of rose-water.
A nutmeg, grated.
A tea-spoonful of mixed mace and cinuamon.
Stir the sugar and butter to a cream
Beat the eggs very light. Throw them,
all at once, into the pan of flour. Put in,
at once, the butter and sugar, and then add
the spice and rose-water. If you have no
rose-water, substitute six or seven drops
of strong essence of lemon, or more if the
essence is weak. Stir the whole very hard,
with a knife.
Spread some flour on your paste-board,
and flour your hands well. Take up with
your knife, a portion of the dough, and lay
tt on the board. Roll it lightly with your
hands, into long thin rolls, which must be
cut into equal lengths, curled up mto rings,
and laid gently into an iron or tin pan,
buttered, not too close to each other, as
they spread in baking. Bake them in a
quick oven about five minutes, and grate
loaf-sugar over them when cool.
The top of the oven may be nearly red
hot, otherwise the jumbles will run into
each other, and become flat and shapeless.
KISSES.
One pound of the best loaf-sugar, powdered
and sifted.
The whites of four eggs.
Twelve drops of essence of lemon.
A tea-cup of currant jelly.
Beat the whites of four eggs till they
stand alone. Then beat in, gradually, the
sugar, a tea-spoonful at a time. Add the
essence of lemon, and beat the whole very
hard.
Lay a wet sheet of paper on the bottom
of a square tin pan. Drop on it, at equal
distances, a small tea-spoonful of stiff cur-
rant jelly. It is better to put a little of the
beaten white of egg and sugar at first un-
der the currant jelly. With a large spoon,
pile some of the beaten white of egg and
sugar, on each lump of jelly, so as to cover
it entirely. Drop on the mixture, as even-
ly as possible, so as to make the kisses of
a round smooth shape.
Set them in a cool oven, and as soon as
they are colored, they are done. Then
take them out and place them two bottoms
together. Lay them lightly on a sieve,
and dry them in a cool oven, till the two
bottoms stick fast together, so as to form
one ball or oval.


CAKES, BUNS, AND GINGERBREAD.
SI
RUSK.
A quarter of a pound of powdered sugar.
A quarter of a pound of fresh butter.
One pound of flour, sifted.
One egg.
Three wine-glasses of milk.
A wine-glass and a half of the best yeast.
A table-spoon fiil of rose-water.
A tea-spoonful of powdered cinuamon.
Sift your flour into a pan. Cut up the
butter in the milk, and warm them a little,
so as to soften the butter, but not to melt it
entirely. Beat your egg; pour the milk
and butter into your pan of flour, then the
egg, then the rose-water and spice, and
lastly the yeast. Stir all well together
with a knife.
Spread some flour on your paste-board:
lay the dough on it, and knead it well.
Then divide it into small pieces of an equal
size, and knead each piece into a little
thick round cake. Butter an iron pan,
lay the cakes in it, and set them in a warm
place to rise. Prick the tops with a fork.
When they are quite light, bake them in a
moderate oven.
Rusk should be eaten fresh.
SPANISH BUNS.
Four eggs.
Three quarters of a pound of flour, sifted.
Half a pound of powdered white sugar.
Two wine-glasses and a half of rich milk.
Six ounces of fresh butter.
A wine-glass and a half of the best yeast.
A table-spoonful of rose-water.
A grated nutmeg.
A large tea-spoonful of powdered mace
and cinuamon.
Sift half a pound of flour into a broad
pan, and sift a quarter of a pound, separ-
ately, into a deep plate, and set it aside.
Put the milk into a soup-plate, cut up the
butter, and set it on the stove or near the
fire to warm, but do not let it get too hot.
When the butter is very soft, stir it all
through the milk with a knife, and set it
away to cool, lieat the eggs very light,
and mix the milk and butter with them, all
at once; then pour all into the pan of flour.
Put in the spice, and the rose-water, or if
{'on prefer it, eight drops of essence of
emon. Add the yeast, of which an in-
creased quantity will be necessary, if it is
not very strong and fresh. Stir the whole
very hard, with a knife. Add the sugar
gradually. If the sugar is not stirred in
slowly, a little at a time, the buns will be
leavy. Then, by degrees, sprinkle in the
remaining quarter of a pound of flour.
Stir all well together; butter a square iron
pan, and put in the mixture. Cover it
with a cloth, and set itnear the fire to rise.
It will probably not be light in less than
ftve hours. When it is risen very high,
and is covered with bubbles, bake it in a
moderate oven, about a quarter of an hour
or more in proportion to its thickness.
When it is quite cool, cut it in squares,
and grate loaf-sugar over them. This
quantity will make twelve or fifteen buns.
They are best the day they are baked.
You may, tf you choose, bake them sep-
arately, in small square tins, adding to the
batter half a pound of currants or chopped
raisins, well floured, and stirred in at the
last.
In making buns, stir the yeast well before
you put it in, having first poured off the
beer or thin part from the top. If your
yeast is not good, do not attempt to make
buns with it, as they will never be light.
Buns may be made in a plainer way, with
the following ingredients, mixed in the
above manuer.
Half a pound of flour, sifted mto a pan.
A quarter pound of flour, sifted in a plate,
and set aside to sprinkle in at the last.
Three,eggs, well beaten.
A quarter of a pound of powdered sugar.
Three wine-glasses of milk.
A wine-glass and a half of the best yeast.
A large tea-spoonful of powdered cinna
mon.
A quarter of a pound of butter, cut up
and warmed in the milk.
All buns should be eaten quito fresh.
NEW-YORK CUP CAKE.
Four eggs.
Four cufis of sifted flour.
Three cups of powdered white sugar.
One cup of butter.
One cup of rich milk.
One glass of white wine.
A grated nutmeg.
A tea-spoonful of cinnamon beaten.
A small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash.
The cups should hold about a half-pint.
Warm the milk and cut up the butter in
it, keeping it by the fire ttll the butter is
melted. Prepare the spice, and sift the
flour. Beat the eg^s very light, and stir
them into the milk m turn with the flour.
Add the spice, and wine, and lastly the
pearl-ash, having melted it in a little vine-
gar. Stir all very hard.
Butter some small tms, fill them half-full


19
CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD.
with the mixture, and bake them in a
moderate oven of equal beat throughout.
INDIAN POUND CAKE.
Etght eggt,.
One putt of powdered sugar.
One pint of Indian meal, sifted, and half a
pint of whe.u flour.
11..11' a [, mn I of butter.
One nutmeg! grated,—and a tea-spoonful
of cinuamon.
Half a glass of mixed wine and brandy.
Sttr the butter and sugar to a cream.
Beat the eggs very l,ght. Stir the meal
and egg.-', alternately, into the butter and
sugar. A.ld the spice and liquor. Stir
alt well. Butter a tin pan, put in the mix-
ture, and bake it in a moderate oven.
This cake should be eaten while fresh.
GINGER CUP CAKE.
Five eggs.
Two large tea-cups full of molasses.
The pame of biown sugar rolled tine.
The same of fresh butter. -
One cup of rich milk.
Five cups of flour, sifted.
Haifa cup of powdered allspice and cloves.
Half a cup of ginger.
A small tea-spoon Iul of pearl-ash melted in
vinegar.
Cut up the butter in the milk, and warm
them slightly. Warm also the molasses,
and stir it into the milk and butter: then
stir in, gradually, the sugar, and set it
away to get cool.
Beat the eggs very light, and stir them
into the mixtuie alternately with the flour.
Add the ginger and other spice, with the
pearl-ash, and stir the whole very hard.
Butter small tins, nearly till them with
the mixture, and bake the cakes in a mod-
erate oven.
BUTTER BISCUITS.
Half a pound of butter.
Two pounds of flour, sifted.
Half a pint of milk, or cold water.
A salt-spoonful of salt.
Cut up the butter in the flour, and put
the salt to it. Wet it to a stiff dough with
the mitk or water. Mix it well with a knife.
Throw some flour on the paste-board,
lake the dough out of the pan, and knead
it very well.
Roll it out into a large thick sheet, and
beat it very hard on both sides with the
rolling-pin. Beat it a long time.
Cut it out with a tin, or cup, into small
round thick cakes. Beat each cake on
both sides, with the rolling-pin. Prick
them with a fork. Put them in buttered
pans, and bake them of a light brown in a
slow oven.
LOAF CAKE.
Two pounds of sifted flour, setting aside
half a pound to sprinkle in at the last.
One pound of fresh butter.
One pound of powdered sugar.
Four eggs.
One pound raisins, stoned, and cut m half.
One pound of currants, washed and dried.
Half a pint of milk.
Half a glass of wine.
Half a glass of brandy
A tahle-spoonful of mixed spice, mace, nut-
meg and cinnamon.
Half a pint of the best brewer's yeast: or
more, if the yeast is not very strong.
Cut up the butter in the milk, and warm
it till the butter is quite soft; then stir it
together, and set it away to cool. Il must
not be made too warm. After you have
beaten the eggs, mix them with the butter
and milk, and stir the whole into the pan
of flour. Add the spice and liquor, and
stir in the sugar gradually. Having poured
off the thin part from the top, stir the
yeast, and pour it into the mixture. Then
sprinkle in the remainder of the flour.
Have ready the fruit, which must be well
floured, stir it gradually into the mixture.
Butter a large tin pan, and put the cake
into it. Cover it, and set it in a warm
place for five or six hours to rise. When
quite light, bake it in a moderate oven.
This cake is best the day it is baked.
SUGAR BISCUITS.
Three pounds of flour, sifted.
One pound of butter.
A pound and a half of powdered sugar.
Half a pint of milk.
Two table-spoonfuls of brandy.
A small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved
in water.
Four 'table-spoonfuls of carraway seeds.
Cut the butter into the flour. Add the
sugar and carraway seeds. Pour in the
brandy, and then the milk. Lastly, put in
the pearl-ash. Stir all well with a knife,


CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD.
23
and mix it thoroughly, till it becomes a
lump of dough.
Flour your paste-board, and lay the
dough on it. Knead it very well. Divide
it into eight or ten pieces, and knead each
piece separately. Then put them all to-
gether, and knead them very well in one
lump.
Cut the dough in half, and roll it out into
sheets, about half an inch thick. Beat the
sheets of dough very hard, on both sides,
with the rolling-pin. Cut them out into
round cakes wtth the edge of a tumbler.
Butter iron pans, and lay the cakes in them.
Bake them of a very pale brown. If done
too much, they will lose their taste.
Let the oven be hotter at the top than at
the bottom.
These cakes kept in a stone jar, closely
covered from the air, will continue perfect-
ly good for several mouths.
GINGERBREAD NUTS.
Two pounds and a half of flour, sifted.
One pound of fresh butter.
One quart of sugar-house molasses.
Two ounces of ginger, or more, if it is
not very strong.
Twelve dozen grains of allspice, \ powder-
Six dozen cloves, > ed and
Half an ounce of cinuamon, 'sifted.
A half tea-spoonful of pearl-ash or sal
as rut us, dissolved in a little vinegar.
Cut up the butter in the flour, and mix
it with the ginger and other spice. Wet
the whole with the molasses, and stir all
well together with a knife. Then add the
dissolved pearl-ash or sal seratus.
Throw some flour on your paste-board,
take the dough (a large handful at a time)
and knead it in separate cakes. Then put
all together, and knead it very hard for a
long time, in one large lump. Cut the
lump in' half, roll it out in two even sheets,
about half an inch thick, and cut it out in
little cakes, with a very small tin, about
the size of a cent. Lay them in buttered
pans, and bake them in a moderate oven,
taking care they do not scorch, as ginger-
bread is more liable to burn than any other
cake.
The oven should be hottest at top.
You may, if you choose, shape the gin-
gerbread nuts, by putting flour in your
hand, taking a very small piece of the
dough, and rolling it into a little round
ball.
If the molasses is thin, or the weather
warm, they will require additional flour.
Gingerbread nuts are best when a week
old.
MILK BISCUITS.
Two pounds of flour, sifted.
Half a pound of butter.
Two eggs.
Six wine-glasses of milk.
Two wi ne-glasses of the best brewer's j'east,
or three of good home-made yeast.
Cut the butter into the milk, and warm
it slightly on the top of the stove, or near
the fire. Sift the flour into a pan, and
pour the milk and butter into it. Beat the
eggs, and pour them in also. Lastly the
yeast. Mix all well together with a knife.
- Flour your paste-board, put the lump of
dough on tt, and knead it very hard. Then
cut the dough in small pieces, and knead
them into round balls. Stick the tops of
them with a fork.
Lay them in buttered pans and set them
to rise. They will probably be light in an
hour. When they are quite light, put
them in a moderate oven and bake them.
They are best when quite fresh.
COMMON GINGERBREAD.
A pint of molasses.
One pound of fresh butter.
Two pounds and a half of flour, sifted.
A pint of milk.
A small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash, or
if it is strong.
A tea-cup full of ginger.
Cut the butter into the flour. Add the
ginger.
Having dissolved the pearl-ash in a little
vinegar, stir it with the milk and molasses
alternately into the other ingredients. Stir
it very hard for a long time, till it is quite
light.
Put some flour on your paste-board, take
out small portions of the dough, and make
it with your hand into long rolls. Then
curl up the rolls into round cakes, or twist
two rolls together, or lay them in straight
lengths or sttcks side by side, and touching
each other. Put them carefully in buttered
pans, and bake them in a moderate oven,
not hot enough to burn them. If they
should get scorched, scrape off with a
knife, or grater, all the burnt parts, before
you put the cakes away.
You can, if you choose, cut out the
dough with tins, in the shape of hearts,
circles, ovals, &c. or you may bake it
all ia one, and cut it in squares when
cold.
If the mixture appears to be too thin,
. add, gradually, a little tnor,i sifted flour.


24
CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD.
LAFAYETTE GINGERBREAD.
Five
Half u p «md of brown sngnr.
Half :t lvnnt I nf f,t!.-h buuer.
A pim of sugar-hou.*e molasses.
A fnnnkI and a half of fl-mr.
Vtt wr table-spoonfuls iif yi tger.
Twn lnrye sticks of cinha,nnn, \ , .
Three dozen grains of allspice, > «-t'tetl
Three dozen of cloves, ^
The juice and grated peel of two large
lemons.
A little pearl-ash or sal seratus.
Stir the butter and sugar to a cream.
Beat the eggs very well. Pour the molas-
ses, at once, into the butter and sugar.
Add the ginger and other spice, and stir
all well together.
Put in the egg and flour alternately, stir-
ring all the time. Stir the whole very hard,
ami put in the lemon at the last. When
the whole is mixed, stir it till very light.
Butter an earthen pan, or a thick tin or
iron one, and put the gingerbread in tt.
Bake it in a moderate oven, an hour or
more, according to its thickness. Take
care that it do not burn.
Or vou may bake it in small cakes, or
little tms.
Its lightness will be much improved by a
small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved in
a tea-s|ieonful of vinegar, and stirred lightly
in at the last. If the pearl-ash is strong, half
a ti-a-spoonful will be sufficient, or less even
will do. It is better to stir the pearl-ash
in, a little at a time, and you can tell by
the taste of the mixture, when there is
enough. Too much pearl-ash, will give it
an unpleasant taste.
If you use pearl-ash, you must omit the
lemon, as its taste will be entirely destroy-
ed by the pearl-ash. You may substitute
for the lemon, some raisins and currants,
well floured to prevent their sinking.
This is the finest of all gingerbread, but
should not be kept long, as in a few days
it becomes very hard and stale. It is best
the day it is baked.
NEW-YEAR'S CAKE.
Seven pounds of flour, sifted.
Half a pound of butter.
Half a pound of lard.
Two pounds and a half of white Havanua
sugar.
Having sifted the flour, spread the sugar
on the paste-board, a little at a time, and
crush it to powder by rolling it with the
rolling-pin. Then mix it with the flour.
Cut up in the flour the butter and the lard,
and mix it well by rubbing it in with your
hands. Add by degrees enough of cold
water to make a stitl' dattgh. Then knead
the dough veiy hard, till it no longer sticks
to your hand.-. Cover it, set it away for
an hour or two, an t then knead it again
in the same manuer. You may repeat the
kneading several times. Then cut it into
pieces, roll out each piece into a sheet half
an inch thick. Cut it into large flat cakes
with a tin cutter. You may stamp each
cake with a 'wooden print, by way of or-
namenting the surface.
Sprinkle with flour some large flat tm
or iron pans, lay the cakes in them and
bake them of a pale brown, in an oven of
equal heat throughout.
These cakes require more and harder
kneathng than any others, therefore it is
best to have them kneaded by a man, or a
verv strong woman.
'I'hey are greatly improved by the addi-
tion of some carraway seeds worked into
the dough.
A DOVER CAKE.
Half a pint of milk.
A half tea-spoonful of pearl-ash, dissolved
in a little vinegar.
One pound of sifted flour.
One pound of powdered white sugar.
Half a pound of butter.
Six eggs.
One glass of brandy.
Half a glass of rose-water.
One grated nutmeg.
A tea-spoonful of powdered cinuamon.
Dissolve the pearl-ash in vinegar. Stir
the sugar and butter to a cream, and add
to it gradually, the spice and liquor. Beat
the eggs very light, and stir them into the
butter and sugar, alternately, with the flour.
Add, gradually, the milk, and stir the
whole very hard.
Butter a large tin pan, and put in the
mixture. Bake it two hours or more, in a
moderate oven. If not thick, an hour or
an hour and a half will be sufficient.
Wrap it in a thick cloth, and keep it
from the air, and it will continue moist and
fresh for two weeks. The pearl-ash wtR
give it a dark color.
It will be much improved by a pound of
raisins, stoned and cut in half, and a pound
of currants, well washed and dried.
Flour the fruit well, and stir it in at the
last.


38
CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD.
cot them with a kntTe, bat pull them open
with your bands. Cutting them while hot
will make them heavy.
INDIAN BATTER CAKES.
A quart of sifted Indian meal, \
A handful of wheat flour sifted, > mixed.
Three eggs, well beaten,'
Two table-spoonfuls of fresh brewer's yeast,
or four of home-made yeast.
A tea-spoonful of salt.
A quart of milk.
Make the milk quite warm, and then
put into it the yeast and salt, stirring them
well. Beat the eggs, and stir them into
the mixture. Then, gradually, stir in the
flour and Indian meal.
Cover the batter, and set it to rise four
or five hours. Or if the weather is cold,
and you want the cakes for breakfast, you
may mix the batter late the night before.
Should you find it sour in the morning,
dissolve a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash
m as much water as will cover it, and stir
it into the batter, letting it set afterwards
at least half an hour. This will take off
the acid.
Grease your baking-iron, and pour on
it a ladle-full of the batter. When brown
oo one side, turn the cake on the other.
Indian batter cakes may be made in a
plain and expedittous way, by putting three
pints of cold water or cold milk into a
pan, and gradually sifting into it (stirring
all the time) a quart of Indian meal mixed
with half a pint of wheat-flour, and a small
spoonful of salt. Stir it very hard, and it
may be baked immediately, as it is not ne-
cessary to set it to rise.
CREAM CAKES.
A quart of cream.
Four eggs.
Sifted flour sufftcient for a thick batter.
A small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash, or a
larger one of sal-aeratus.
A small tea-spoonful of salt.
Beat four eggs till very light, and stir
them by degrees into a quart of cream.
Add, gradually, enough of lifted flour to
make a thick hatter. Put in the salt.
Dissolve the pearl-ash in as much vinegar
as will cover it, and stir it in at the last.
Bake the mixture in muffin-rings. Send
the cukes to table quite hot. lJull them
open, and butter them.
For these cakes sour cream is better than
sweet.
FLANNEL CAKES OR CRUMPETS
Two pounds of floor, sifted.
Four eggs.
Three table-spoonfuls of the best brewer's
yeast, or four and a half of home-made
yeast.
A pint of milk.
Mtx a tea-spoonful of salt with the flour,
and set the pan before the Are. Then warm
the milk, and stir into it the flour, so as
to make a stiff batter. Beat the eggs very
light, and stir them into the yeast. Add
the egsts and yeast to the batter, and beat
all welf together. If it is too stiff, add a
little more warm milk.
Cover the pan closely and set it to rise
near the lit t-. Bake it, when quite light.
Have your baking-iron hot. Grease it,
and pour on a ladle-full of batter. Let it
bake slowly, and when done on one side,
turn it on the other.
Butter the cakes, cut them across, and
send them to table hot.
ROLLS.
Three pints of flour, sifted.
Two tea-spoonfuls of salt.
Four table-spoonfuls of the best brewer's
yeast, or six of home-made yeast.
A pint of luke-warm water.
Half a pint more of warm water, and a
little more flour to mix in before the
kneading.
Mix the salt with the flour, and make a
deep hole in the middle. Stir the warm
water into the yeast, aud pour it into the
hole in the flour. Stir it with a spoon just
enough to make a thin batter, and sprinkle
some flour over the top. Cover the pan,
and set it in a warm place for several hours.
When it is light, add half a pint more
of luke-warm water; and make it, with a
little more flour, into a dough. Knead it
very well for ten minutes. Then divide it
into small pieces, and knead each separate-
ly. Make them into round cakes or rolls.
Cover them, and set them to rise about an
hour and a half. .
Bake them, and when done, let them re-
main in the oven, without the lid, for about
ten minutes.
RICE CAKES FOR BREAKFAST.
Put half a pound of rice in soak over
night. Early in the morning boil it very
soft, drain it from the water, mix with tt
a quarter of a pound of butter and set it


28 SWEETMEATS
AND JELLIES.
BLANCMANGE.
Four calf's feet.
A pint and a half of thick cream.*
Half a pound of loaf-augur, broken up.
A glass of wine.
Half a glass of rose-water.
A tea-spoonful of mace, beaten and sifted.
Get four calf's-feet; if possible some
that have been scalded, and not skinued.
Scrape, aud clean them well,and boil them
in three quarts of water tilI all the meat
drops off the bone. Drain the liquid
through a colander or sieve, and skim it
well. Let it stand till next morning to
congeal. Then clean it well from the sed-
iment, and put it into a tin or bell-metal
kettle. Stir into it, the cream, sugar, and
mace. Boil it hard for five minutes, stir-
ring it several times. Then strain it
through a linen cloth or napkin into a
large bowl, and add the wine and rose-
water.
Set it in a cool place for three or four
hours, stirring it very frequently with a
spoon, to prevent the cream from separat-
ing from the jelly. The more it is stirred
the better. Stir it till it is cool.
Wash your moulds, wipe them dry, and
then wet them with cold water. When the
blancmange becomes very thick, (that is,
in three or four hours, if the weather is not
too damp) put it into your moulds.
When it has set in them till it is quite
firm, loosen it carefully all round with a
knife, and turn it out on glass or china
plates.
If you wish to make it with almonds,
take an ounce of blanched bitter almonds,
and two ounces of sweet. Beat them in a
mortar to a fine paste, pouring in occasion-
ally a little rose-water. When the mixture
is ready to boil, add the almonds to it grad-
ually, stirring them well in. Or you may
stir them in, while it is cooling in the
bowl.
If it inclines to stick to the moulds, set
them an Instant in hot water. It will then
turn out easily.
If you choose to make it without calf's
feet, you can substitute an ounce of the best
and clearest isinglass (or, if in summer, an
ounce and a quarter) boiled with the other
mgredients. If made with isinglass, you
must use two ounces of sweet, and an ounce
of bitter almonds, with the addition of the
grated rind of a large lemon, and a large
stick of cinuamon, broken up, a glass of
wine, and half a glass of rose-water. These
* Blancmange ls greatty lmproved by bolllng
ln the cream an ounce of bltter almonds brok-
en In pleces, or a handful of peach-leaveg.
ingredients must be all mixed together, wtth
a quart of cream, and boiled hard for five
minutes. The mixture must then be stram-
ed through a napkin, into a large bowl.
Set it in a cool place, and stir it frequently
till nearly cold. It must then be put mto
the moulds.
You may substitute for the almonds,
half a gill of noyau, in whtch case, omit
the wine.
CALF'S-FEET JELLY.
Eight calf's feet.
Three quarts of water.
A pint of white wine.
Three lemons.
The whites of six eggs.
Half an ounce of ctnuamon.
Half pound loaf-sugar, broken into lumps.
'—
Endeavor to procure calf's-feet, that
have been nicely scalded, but not skinued,
as the skin bemg left on, makes the jelly
much firmer.
The day before you want to use the jelly,
boil the eight calf's-feet in three quarts of
water, till the meat drops from the bone-
When sufficiently done, put it into a colan-
der or sieve, and let the liquid. drain from
the meat, into a broad pan or dish. Skim
off the fat. Let the jelly stand till next
day, and then carefully scrape off the sedi-
ment from the bottom. It will be a firm
jelly, if too much water has not been used,
and if it has boiled long enough. If it is
not firm at first, it will not become so af-
terwards when boiled with the other ingre-
dients. There should on no account be
more than three quarts of water.
Early next morning, put the jelly into a
tin kettle, or covered tin pan; set tt on the
fire, and melt it a little. Take it off, and
season it with the cinuamon slightly broken,
a pint of Madeira wine, three lemons cut
in thin slices, and half a pound of loaf-
sugar, broken up.
If you wish it high-colored, add two ta-
ble-spoonfuls of French brandy. Mix all
well together. Beat, slightly, the whites
of six eggs (saving the egg-shell) and stir
the whites into the jelly. Break up the
egg-shells into very small pieces, and throw
them in also. Stir the whole very well
together.
Set it on the fire, and boil it hard five
minutes, but do not stir it, as that will pre-
vent its clearing. Have ready a large
white flanuel bag, the top wide, and the
bottom tapering to a point.
Tie the bag to the backs of two chairs,
or to the legs of a table, and set a white
dish or a mould under it.
After the jelly has boiled five minutes,


SWEETMEATS.
29
it hot into the bag, and let it drip
through into the dish. Do not squeeze the
bag, as that will make the jelly dull and
cloudy.
If it is not clear the first time it passes
through the bag, empty out all the ingre-
dients, wron the bag, suspend it again, put
another white dish under it, pour the jelly
back into the bag, and let it drip through
again. Repeat this six or eight times, or
till it is clear, putting a clean dish under it
every time. If it does not drip freely,
move the bag into a warmer place.
When the jelly has all dripped through
the bag, and is clear, set it in a cool place
to congeal. It will sometimes congeal im-
mediately, and sometimes not for several
flours, particularly if the weather is warm
and damp. If the weather is very cold you
must take care not to let it freeze. When
it is quite ftrm, which perhaps it will not
be till evening, fill your glasses with it,
piling it up very high. If you make it in
a mould, you must either set the mould un-
der the bag while it is dripping, or pour
it from the dish into the mould while it is
liquid. When it is perfectly congealed,
dip the mould for an instant in boiling water
to loosen the jelly. Turn it out on a glass
dish.
Tins quantity of ingredients will make
a quart of jelly when finished. In cool
weather it maybe made a day or two before
it is wanted.
You may increase the seasoning, (that is,
the wine, lemon, and cinuamon,) according
tumour taste, but less than the above pro-
portion will not be sufficient to flavor the
jelly.
Ice
Ice jelly is made in the same manuer,
only not so stiff. Four calves-feet will be
sufficient. Freeze it as you would ice-
cream, and serve it up in glasses.
APPLE JELLY.
Take the best pippin, or bell-flower ap-
ples. No others will make good jelly.
Pare, core, and quarter them. Lay them
in a preserving kettle, and put to them as
much water only, as will cover them, and
as much lemon-peel as you choose. Boil
them till they are soft, but not till they
break. Drain off the water through a co-
lander, and mash the apples with the back
of a spoon. Put them into a jelly-bag, set
a deep dish or pan under it, and squeeze out
the juice.
To every pint of juice, allow a pound
of loaf-sugar, broken up, and the juice of
two lemons. Put the apple-juice, the su-
gar, and the lemon-juice, into the preserv-
mg kettle. Boil it twenty minutes, skim-
mmg it well. Take it immediately from
the kettle, and pour it warm into your
glasses, but not so hot as to break them.
When cold, cover each glass with white
paper dipped in brandy, and tie it down
tight with another paper. Keep them in a
cool place.
Quince Jelly is made in the same man-
ner, but do not pare the quinces. Quarter
them only.
RED CURRANT JELLY.
Wash your currants, drain them, and
pick them from the stalks. Mash them
with the back of a spoon. Put them in a
jelly-bag, and squeeze it till all the juice is
pressed out.
To every pint of juice, allow a pound of
the best loaf-sugar. Put the juice and the
sugar into your kettle, and boil them twen-
ty minutes, skimming all the while. Pour
it warm into your glasses, and when cold,
tie it up with brandy paper. Jellies should
never be allowed to gel cold in the kettle.
If boiled too long, they will lose their fla-
vor, and become of a dark color.
Strawberry, raspberry, blackberry, and
grape jelly may be made in the same man-
ner, and with the same proportion of loaf-
sugar.
Red currant jelly may also be made in a
very simple manuer, by putting the currants
whole into the kettle, with the sugar; al-
lowing a pound of sugar to a pound of cur-
rants. Boil them together twenty minutes,
skimming carefully. Then pour them into
a sieve, with a pan under it. Let them
drain through the sieve into the pan, press-
ing them down with the back of a spoon.
Take the jelly, while warm, out of the
pan, and put it into your glasses. Tie it
up with brandy paper when cold.
This jelly is best made of an equal quan-
tity of red and white currants. «
BLACK CURRANT JELLY.
Pick the currants from the stalks, wash
and drain them. Mash them soft with a
spoon, put them in a bag, and squeeze out
the juice. To each pint of jutce, allow
three quarters of a pound of loaf-sugar.
Put the juice and sugar into a preserving
kettle, and boil them about ten minutes,
skimming them well. Take it immediate-
ly out of the kettle. Put it warm into
your glasses. Tie it up with brandy paper.
The juice of black currants is so very
thick, that it requires less sugar and less
boiling than any other jelly.


30
SWEETMEATS.
GOOSEBERRY JELLY.
Cut the gooseberries in half, (they must
be green) and put lhem in a jar closely
covered. Set the jar in an oven, or pot
filled with boibng water. Keep the water
builing round the jar till the gooseberries
are mm, take them out, mash them witlt a
spoon, ,1.1.; put them into a jelly-bag to
drain. When all the juice is squeezed out,
measure it, and to a p,nt of juice, allow a
pound of loaf-sugar. Put the juice and
sugar into the preserving kettle, and boil
them twenty minutes, skimming carefully.
Put the jelly warm into your glasses. Tte
luem up with brandy paper.
Cranberry jelly is made in the same
manuer.
GRAPE JELLY.
Pick the grapes from the stems, wash
and drain them. Mash them with a spoon.
Put them in the preserving kettle, and cov-
er them closely with a large plate. Boil
them ten minutes. Then pour them into
your jelly bag, and squeeze out the juice.
Allow a pint of juice to a pound of sugar.
Put the sugar and juice into your kettle,
and boil them twenty minutes, skimming
them well.
Fill your glasses while the jelly is warm,
and tie them up with brandy papers.
PEACH JELLY.
Wipe the wool off your peaches, (which
should be free-stones and not too ripe) and
cut them in quarters. Crack the stones,
and break the kernels small.
Put the peaches and the kernels into a
covered jar, set them in boiling water, and
let them boil till they are soft.
Strain them through a jelly-bag, till all
the juice is squeezed out. Allow a pound
of loaf-sugar to a pint of juice. Put the
sugar and juice into a preserving kettle,
and boil them twenty minutes, skimming
carefully.
Put the jelly warm into your glasses, and
when cold, tie them up with brandy paper.
Plum, and green-gage jelly may be made
m the same manuer, with the kernels,
which greatly improve the flavor.
PRESERVED QUINCES.
Pare and core your quinces, carefully
taktng out the parte that are knotty and
defective. Cut them into quarters, or into
round slices. Put them into a preserving
kettle, antl cover them with the parings
and a very little water. Lay a large plate
over them to keep in the steam, and boil
them t,ll they are tender.
Take out the quinces, and strain the
liquor through a bag. To every pint of
liquor, allow a pound of loaf-sugar. Boil
the juice and sugar together, about ten
minutes, skimming it well. Then put in
the quinces, and boil them gently twenty
minutes. When the sugar seems to have
completely penetrated them, take them out,
put them m a glass jar, and pour the juice
over them warm. Tie them up, when cold,
with brandy paper.
In preserving fruit that is boiled first
without the sugar, it is generally better
(after the first boiling) to let it stand till
next day^ before you put the sugar to it.
PRESERVED PIPPINS.
Pare and core some of the largest and
finest pippins. Put them in your preserv-
ing kettle,* with some lemon-peel, and all
the apple-parings. Add a very little water,
and cover them closely. Boil them till
they are tender, taking care they do not
burn. Take out the apples, and spread
them on a large dish to cool. Pour the
liquor into a bag, and strain it well. Put
it into your kettle with a pound of loaf-
sugar to each pint of juice, and add lemon
juice to your taste. Boil it five minutes,
skimming it well. Then put in the whole
apples, and boil them slowly half an hour,
or till they are quite soft and clear. Put
them with the juice, into your jars, and
when quite cold, tie them up with brandy
paper.
Preserved apples are only intended for
present use, as they will not keep fong.
Pears may be done in the same way,
either whole or cut in half. They may be
flavored either with lemon or cinuamon,
or both. The pears for preserving should
be green.
PRESERVED PEACHES.
Take the largest. and finest free-stone
peaches, before they are too ripe. Pare
« The use of brass or bell metal ketttes is
now almost entlrely superseded by the enam-
elled ketttes of lron llned wlth chlna, called
preservlng kettles; brass and bell-metal bav
lng always been objectionable on account of
the verdlgrls which collects in them.


SWEETMEATS
31
them, and cut them in halves or in quarters.
Crack, the stones, and take out the kernels,
and break them in pieces. Put the peach-
es, with the parings and kernels, into your
preserving kettle, with a very little water.
Boil them till they are tender. Take out
the peaches and spread them on a large
dish to cool. Strain the liquor through a
bag or sieve. Next day, measure the juice,
and to each pint allow a pound of loaf-
sugar. Put the juice and sugar into the
kettle with the peaches, and boil them
slowly half an hour, or till they are quite
soft, skimming all the time. Take the
peaches out, put them into your jars, and
pour the warm liquor over them. When
cold, tic them up with brandy paper.
If boiled too long, they will took dull,
and be of a dark color.*
If you do not wish the juice to be very
thick, do not put it on to boil with the
sugar, but first boil the sugar alone, with
only as much water as will dissolve it,
and skim it well. Let the sugar, in all
cases, be entirely melted before it goes on
the fire. Having boiled the sugar and
water, and skimmed it to a clear sirup,
then put in your juice and fruit together,,
and boil them till completely penetrated
with the sugar.
ANOTHER WAY OF PRESERVING
PEACHES.
Take large juicy ripe free-stone peaches,
(iare them and cut them in quarters. Crack
lalf the stones, and blanch the kernels 'in
scalding water. Weigh the peaches, and
to each pound allow a pound of loaf-sugar.
Mix them with the kernels, lay them in a
deep dish, or tureen, and mix with them
also the sugar. Cover them and let them
set all night.
In the morning put the peaches and su-
gar with the kernels into a preserving ket-
tle, and boil them till soft and clear; skim-
ming them carefully. Use no water, as
the juice that has been drawn out while
they lay in the sugar will be sufficient.
When cold, put them in jars and tie
them up with brandy-paper, leaving the
kernels among them.
Green gages and plums may be done in
this manuer when quite ripe, using also
half the kernels.
« To preserve peaches whole, pare them
and thrust out the stones wlth a skewer.
Then proceed as above, only blanch the ker-
nels and keep them whole. When the peach-
es are done, stlck a kernel lnto the hole of
every peach, before you put them lnto the jars.
Large frult wlll keep best ln broad shaliow
stone pots.
PRESERVED CRAB APPLES
Wash your fruit. Cover the bottom of
your preserving kettle with grape leaves.
Put in the apples. Hang them over the
fire, with a very little water, and covet
them closely. Do not allow them to boil,
but let them simmer gently till they are yel-
low. Take them out. and spread them on
a large dish to cool. Pare and core them.
Put them again into the kettle, with fresh
vine-leaves under and over them, and a
very little water. Hang them over the
fire till they are green. Do not let them
boil. 3 8 -
Take them out, weigh them, and allow a
pound of loaf-sugar to a pound of crab-
apples. Put to the sugar just water enough
to dissolve it. When it is all melted, put
it on the fire, and boil and skim it. Then
put in your fruit, and boil the apples till
they are quite clear and soft. Put them
in jars, and pour the warm liquor over
them. When cold, tie them up with bran-
dy paper.
PRESERVED PLUMS.
Cut your plums in half, (they must not
be quite ripe,) and take out the stones.
Weigh the plums, and allow a pound of
loaf-sugar to a pound of fruit. Crack the
stones, take out the kernels and break them
in pieces. Boil the plums and kernels very
slowly for about fifteen minutes, in as little
water as possible. Then spread them on
a large dish to cool, and strain the liquor.
Next day make your sirup. Melt the
sugar in as little water as will suffice to
dissolve it, (about a gill of water to a
pound of sugar) and boil it a few minutes,
skimming it till quite clear. Then put in
your plums with the liquor, and boil them
fifteen minutes. Put them in jars, poor
the juice over them warm^ana tie them
up, when cold, with brandy paper.
Plums for common use, are very good done
in molasses. Put your plums into an earthen
vessel that holds a gallon, having first slit
each plum with a knife. To three quarts
of plums put a pint of molasses. Cover
them and set them on hot coals in the
chimney corner. Let them stew for twelve
hours or more, occasionally stirring them,
and renewing the coals. Next day put
them up in jars. Done in this manuer
they will keep till the next spring.
Sirups may be improved in clearness,
by adding to the dissolved sugar and water,
some white of egg very well beaten,allow-
ing the white of one egg to two pounds of
sugar. Boil it very hard, (adding the
egg-shells) and skim it well, that it may
be quite clear before you put in your fruit.
28.


33
SWEETMEATS.
PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES.
We:&h the strawberries after you have
picked off the stems. To each pound of
fruit allow a pound of loaf-sugar, which
must be |«mdered. Strew hall' of the su-
gar over the strawberries, and let them
stand in a colil place two or three hours.
Then put them in a preserving kettle over
a slow fire, and by degrees strew on the
rest of the sugar. Iloil them fifteen or
twenty minutes, and skim them well.
Put them ht wide-mouthed bottles, and
when colJ, seal the corks. .
If you w ish to do them whole, take them
carefuily out of the sirup, (one at a time)
while boiling. Spread them to cool on
large dishes, not letting the strawberries
touch each other, and when cool, return
them to the sirup, and boil them a little
longer. Repeat this several times.
Keep the bottles in dry sand, in a place
that is cool and not damp.
Gooseberries, currants, raspberries, cher-
ries and grapes may be done in the same
manner. The stones must be taken from
the cherries (which should be morellas, or
the largest and best red cherries;) and the
seeds should be extracted from the grapes
with the sharp point of a penknife. Goose-
berries, grapes, and cherries, require long-
er boiling than strawberries, raspberries or
currants.
PRESERVED CRANBERRIES.
Wash your cranberries, weigh them, and
to each pound allow a pound of loaf-sugar.
Dissolve the sugar in a very little water,
(about a gill of water to a pound of sugar)
and set it on the fire in a preserving kettle.
Boil it nearly ten minutes, skimming it
well. Then put in your cranberries, and
boil them slow ly, till they are quite soft,
and of a fine colour.
Put them warm into your jars or glasses,
and tie them up with brandy paper, when
cold.
All sorts of sweetmeats keep better in
glasses, than in stone or earthen jars.
When opened for use, they should be tied
up again immediately, as exposure to the
atr spoils them.
Common glass tumblers are very conve-
nient for jellies, and preserved small fruit.
White jars are better than stone or earth-
en, for large fruit.
PRESERVED PUMPKIN.
Cut slices from a fine high-colored pump-
kin, and cut the slices into chips about the
"feness of a dollar. The chips should
be of an equal size, six inches in length,
and an inch broad. Weigh them, and al-
low to each pound of pumpkin chips, a
pound of loaf-sugar. Have ready a suffi-
cient number of fine lemons, pare off the
yellow rind, and lay it aside. Cut the
lemons in half, and squeeze the juice into
a bowl. Allow a gill of juice to each pound
of pumpkin.
Put the pumpkin into abroad pan laying
the sugar among it. Pour the lemon-juice
over it. Cover the pan, and let the pump-
kin chips, sugar and lemon-juice, set all
night.
Early in the morning put the whole into
a preserving pan, and boil all together
(skimming it well) till the pumpkin he-
comes clear and crisp, but not till it breaks.
It should have the appearance of lemon-
candy. You may if you choose, put some
lemon-peel with it, cut in very small pieces.
Half an hour's boiling (or a little more)
is generally sufficient.
When it is done, take out the pumpkin,
spread it on a large dish, and strain the
sirup through a bag. Put the pumpkin
into your jars or glasses, pour the sirup
over tt, and tie it up with brandy paper.
If properly done, this is a very fine
sweetmeat. The taste of the pumpkin
will be lost in that of the lemon and sugar,
and the sirup is particularly pleasant. It
is eaten without cream, like preserved
ginger. It may be laid on puff-paste shells,
after they are baked.
RASPBERRY JAM.
Allow a pound of sugar to a pound of
fruit. Mash the raspberries and put them
with the sugar into your preserving-kettle.
Boil it slowly for an hour, skimming it
well. Tie it up with brandy paper.
All jams are made in the same manuer.
PRESERVED PINE-APPLE.
Pare your pine-apples, and cut them in
thick slices taking out the core. Weigh
the slices and to each pound allow a pound
of loaf-sugar. Dissolve ihe sugar in a very
small quantity of water, stir it, and set it
over the fire in a preserving-kettle. Boil
it ten minutes, skimming it well. Then
put in it the pine-apple slices, and boil
them till they are clear and soft, but not
till they break. About half an hour (or
perhaps less time) will suffice. Let them
cool in a large dish or pan, before you put
them into your jars, which you must do
carefully, lest they break. Pour the sirup
over them. Tie them up with brandy paper.


MISCELLANEOUS.
35
TERRAPINS.
Haying boiled your terrapins for ten
minutes, take them out of the water and
pull off the outer shell. Then boil them
again, till the claws become tender.
A fterwards take them out of the inuer
shell, and be careful not to break the gall,
whtch must be taken from the liver and
thrown away: likewise throw away the
spongy part; all the rest being fit to eat.
Cut the terrapins into small pieces, put
them into a stew-pan, with a little salt,
cayenue pepper, and some butter. After
they have stewed a few minutes in the but-
ter, pour in a very small quantity of water,
in the proportion of a wine-glass-full to
each terrapin.
When they have stewed about ten min-
utes, add some butter rolled in flour, and
a glass of white wine to each terrapin, and
let them stew five minutes longer. Then
take them from the fire.
Have ready some beaten yolk of egg
(allowing one yolk for two terrapins) stir
it in, cover the pan tightly, let it set for
five or six minutes, then put it into a tur-
een or deep dish and send it to table.
A-LA-MODE BEEF.
A round of fresh beef weighing from eight-
een to twenty pounds.
A pound of the fat of bacon or corned pork.
The marrow from the 1
bone of the beef, 1 . .
A quarter of a pound f ch0PPed together.
of beef-suet, J
Two bundles of pot herbs, parsley, thyme,
small onions, &e. chopped fine.
Two large bunches of ^ sufficient when
sweet marjoram, [ powdered to make
Two bunches of sweet { lour table-spoon-
basil, J fuls of each.
Two large nutmegs, ;,
u tr c \ > beaten to a pow-
Hall an ounce ol cloves, t 1
Half an ounce of mace,'''
One table-spoonful of salt.
One table-spoonful of pepper.
Two glasses of Madeira wine.
If your a-la-mode beef is to be eaten
cold, prepare it three days before it is
wanted.
Take out the bone. Fasten up the open-
ing with skewers, and tie the meat all
round with tape. Rub it all over on both
sides with salt. A large round of beef
will be more tender than a small one.
Chop the marrow and suet together.
Pound the spice. Chop the pot-herbs very
. fine. Pick the sweet marjoram and sweet
basil clean from the stalks, and rub the
leaves to a powder. You must have at
ast four table-spoonfuls of each. Add the
pepper and salt, and mix well together all
the ingredients that compose the seasoning.
Cut the fat of the bacon or pork into
pieces about a quarter of an inch thick
and two inches long. With a sharp knife
make deep incisions all over the round of
beef and very near each other. Put first
a little of the seasoning into each hole,
then a slip of the bacon pressed down hard
and covered with more seasoning. Pour
a little wine into each hole.
When you have thus stuffed the upper
side of the beef, turn it over and stuff in
the same manuer the under side. If the
round is very large, you will require a
larger quantity of seasoning.
Put tt in a deep baking dish, pour over
it some wine, cover it, and let it set till
next morning. It will be much the better
for lying all night in the seasoning.
Next day put a little water in the dish,
set it in a covered oven, and bake or stew
it gently for twelve hours at least, or more
if it is a large round. It will be much
improved by stewing it in lard. Let it re-
main all night in the oven.
If it is to be eaten hot at dinuer, put it
in to stew the evening before, and let it
cook till dinuer-time next day. Stir some
wine and a beaten egg into the gravy.
If brought to table cold, cover it all over
with green parsley, add stick a large bunch
of something green in the centre.
What is left will make au excellent hash
the next day.
A BONED TURKEY.
A large turkey.
Three sixpenuy loaves of stale bread.
One pound of fresh butter.
Four eggs.
One bunch of pot-herbs, parsley, thyme,
and little onions.
Two bunches of sweet marjoram.
Two bunches of sweet basil.
Two nutmegs. \ , ,
Half an ounce of cloves, > fine
A quarter of an ounce of mace,'
A table-spoonful of salt.
A table-spoonful of pepper.
Skewers, tape, needle, and coarse thread
will be wanted.
Grate the bread, and put the crusts in
water to soften. Then break them up
small into the pan of crumbled bread. Cut
up a pound of butter in the pan of bread.
Rub the herbs to powder, and have two
table-spoonfuls of sweet marjoram and two
of sweet basil, or more of each if the tur-
key is very large. Chop the pot-herbs,
and pound the spice. Then add the salt
and pepper, and mix afti the ingredients
well together. Beat slightly four eggs, and


3fi
MISCELLANEOUS.
mix theua with the seasoning and bread
crams.
After the turkey is drawn, take a sharp
knife and, beginuing at the wings, care-
fully separate the flesh from the bone, scrap-
ing it down as you go; and avoid tearing
or breaking the skin. Next, loosen the
flesh from the breast and back, and then
from the thighs. It requires great care
and pattence to do it nicely. When all the
flesh is thus loosened, take the turkey by
the neck, give it a pull, and the skeleton
will come out entire from the flesh, as
easily as you draw your hand outof a glove.
The flesh will then be a shapeless mass.
With a needle and thread mend or sew up
any holes that may be found in the skin.
T.ke up a handful of the seasoning,
squeeze it hard and proceed to stuff the
turkey with it, beginuing at the wings,
next to the body, and then the thighs.
If you stuff it properly, it will again
assuttte tts natural shape. Stuff it very
hard. When all the stuffing is in, sew up
the breast, and skewer the turkey into its
proper form, so that it will look as if it had
not been boned.
Tie it round with tape and bake it three
hours or more. Make a gravy of the gib-
lets chopped, and enrich it with some wine
and an egg.
If the turkey is to be eaten cold, drop
spoonfuls of red currant jelly all over it,
and in the dish round it.
A large fowl may be boned and stuffed
in the same manuer.
COLLARED PORK.
A leg of fresh pork, not large.
Two table-spoonfuls of powdered
Two table-spoonfuls of
sweet marjoram,
One table-spoonful of
sweet bastl,
A quarter of an ounce of mace,
Half an ounce of cloves,
Two nutmegs,
A bunch of pot-herbs, chopped small.
A sixpenny loaf of stale bread, grated.
Half a pound of butter, cut into the bread.
Two eggs.
A table-spoonful of salt.
A table-spoonful of black pepper.
powdered.
| powdered.
Grate the bread, and having softened
the crust in water, mix.it with the crums.
Prepare all the other ingredients, and mlx
them well with the grated bread and egg.
Take the bone out of a leg of pork, and
rub the meat well on both sides with salt.
Spread the seasoning thick all over the
meat. Then roll it up very tightly and tie
it round with tape.
Put it into a deep dish with a little wa-
ter, and bake it two hours. If eaten hot.
put an egg and some wine into the gr"}
When cold, cut it down into round slices
CHICKEN SALAD.
Two large cold fowls, either boiled or
roasted.
The yolks of nine hard-boiled eggs.
Half a pint of sweet oil.
Half a pint of vinegar.
A gill of mixed mustard.
A small tea-spoonful of cavenue pepper.
A small tea-spoonful of salt.
Two large heads, or four small ones, of
fine celery.
Cut the meat of the fowls from the bones,
u pieces not exceeding an inch in size.
Cut the white part of the celery mto
pieces about an inch long. Mix the chick-
en and celery well together. Cover them
and set them away.
With the back of a wooden spoon, mash
the yolks of eggs till they are a perfectly
smooth paste. Mix them with the oil,
vinegar, mustard, cayenue, and salt. Stir
them for a long time, till they are thor-
oughly mixed and quite smooth. The long-
er they are stirred the better. When thts
dressing is sufficiently mixed, cover it, and
set it away.
Five minutes before the salad is to be
eaten pour the dressing over the chicken
and celery, and mix all well together. If
the dressing is put on long before it is
wanted, the salad will be tough and hard.
This salad is very excellent made of cold
turkey instead of chicken.
LOBSTER SALAD.
Take two large boiled lobsters. Extract
all the meat from the shell, and cut it up
into very small pieces.
For lobster salad, you must have lettuce
instead of celery. Cut up the lettuce as
small as possible.
Make a dressing as for a chicken-salad,
with the yolks of nine hard-boiled eggs,
half a pint of sweet oil, half a pint of vin-
egar, a gill of mustard, a tea-spoonful of
cayenue, and a tea-spoonful of salt. Mix
all* well together with a wooden spoon.
A few minutes before it is to be eaten,
pour the dressing over the lobster and let
t uce, and mtx it very well.
STEWED MUSHROOMS.
Take a quart of fresh mushrooms. Peel
them and cut off the stems. Season them
with pepper and salt. Put them in a
sauce-pan or skillet, with a lump of fresh
butter the size of an egg, and sufficient
cream or rich milk to cover them. Put on
the lid of the pan, and stew the mushrooms





PUBLISHKd BY C. 8. FRANCIS A CO., NEW YORK.

ATJTHOB OF "PETER THE WHALES," ETC
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOHN ABSOLON.
Price, 7o oents. Extra gilt, $1.


PUBLISHED BY C. S. FBANCIS AND CO., NEW YORK.
The Sisters;
A Domestic Tale. By Mrs. Holland. 1 vol. Cloth, 87i cents.
The Blind Farmer and his Family.
By Mrs. Hofland. Cloth, 87i cents.
Evenings at Home;
Or, the Juvenile Budget Opened: By Dr. Aiken and Mrs. Barbauld.
Newly revised and corrected, and illustrated with line engravings.
1 vol. 75 cents.
Swiss Family Robinson.
Part Second. Being the continuation and completion of this inter-
esting work. 1 vol. 63 cents.
Early Lessons.
By Maria Edgeworth. A new uniform edition, including Harry
and Lucy; Frank; Rosamond; with the Sequels to each work.
Complete in 5 thick vols., with illustrations. Cloth, $8 75. Each
work may also be had separately.
The Summer Day Book
Of Pleasant and Useful Beading. Containing Sketches of Natural
History: Personal Adventures; Scenes of Foreign Travel; Infor-
mation on Popular Science; and other subjects suited to interest
and improve the mind. 50 engravings. Cloth, 75 cents; extra
gilt, $1 00.
Happy Hours;
Or, Home Story Book. By Mary Cherwell, with fine illustrations.
50 cents.
Instinct of Animals.
Stories about the Instinct of Animals, their Characters and Habits.
By Thomas Bingley, with designs by Landseer. 50 cents.
Cobwebs to catch Flies;
Or, Dialogues in short sentences. A new edition, revised and
illustrated. 25 cents.
The Daisy;
Or, Cautionary Stories in Verse. A new edition with additional
poems. 25 cents. Colored pictures, S7i cents.
The Cowslip;
Or. More Cautionary Stories in Verse. By the author of "The
Daisy. 25 cents. Colored, &H cents.
Grandmamma's Pockets; -
A Tale for Yonng People. By Mrs. S. C. Hall. 37i oents.
xiv


PUBLISHED BY C. S. FRANCIS ife CO., NEW HIRE.

A new Collection of the
BEST LEGENDS AND FAIRY TALES
FOR YOUNG* PEOPLE,
FHKE FROM ALL EXCEPTIONABLE MATTES.
With 50 engravings, 75 ceuts.
Most of the stories have never before been published in this country.


PUBLISHED BY C. B. FRANCIS ifc CO., NEW YORK.

Chap. I.—An Accouut of my Family and Early Life.—1 *neglect the Precepts of
my Father, and listen to an Evil Counsellor.
Chap. II.—Why I weut to 9ea.—I suffer in consequence of acting upon thu
Advice of an Evil Counsellor.—I find that it is easier to make a False Step than
to retrace it.
Chap. III.—I visit Liverpool, and gain some insight iuto the Ways of the
World.—Am iutroduced to the Master of the Black Swan.
Chap. IV.—I go on board the Black Swan, and offer to make myself useful;
but my Services are not appreciated.—I meet Siias Fliut, and make the Acquaiut-
ance of some Emigrauts.—1 discover that there are others worse off than myself.
Chap. V.—My flrai experience of a Sea Life.—The embarkation of Emigrauts
for North America.—The First Mate reminds me that I offered to make myself use-
ful.— Description of a North American Emigraut Ship.—We sail, and 1 go aloft
for the first time.—Dick Derrick's advice and instruction.
Chap. VI.—Flmt shows he has not forgotten me.—My first iutroduction to Ice,
of which I am1Bretined to see much more.—A Foundering Ship.
Chap. VII.—I claim my Rights but do not get them acknowtedged.—Am treat-
ed as a Mutineer.—A Friend in Need.—I discover that there are *other things to
be guarded against besides Rocks, and Shoals, and Icebergs.—A Ship on Fire.
Chap. VIII.—Consequences of the Waut of Discipline.—Our Captain deserts
us.—Many trust themselves on rafts.—Courage and Coolness of our Second Mate.
Chap. IX.—I obtain a Proof that the Geutle and Humane are generally brave
In the Hour of Danger.—A true Sailor will not desert his Ship till the last.—
Silas tempts me to go away on the Raft.—Aid comes when Hope has almost de-
parted.—A few are saved, but a bitter Disappoiutmeut awaits the rest.—A storm
comes on, and we lose sight of the Mary's Light.
Chap. X.—We once more see the Mary.—Our Hopes of Preservation are again
disappoiuted.—The Fire is extinguished by its more powerful Rival.
Chap. XI.—Captain Dean and his Daughter a coutrast to Captain Swales and
Mr. Stovin.—I am taken ill, and geutly nursed.—We reach a Port at last.—A De-
scription of Quebec.—A conversation between Mary Dean and me.
Chap. XII.—I agree to sail with Captain Dean.-^An old Friend re-appears.—
He persmides me to accompany him up the Couutry.—I visit the Lakes.
Chap. XIII.—Return to Quebec.—A bitter Disappoiutmeut.—Search in vain
for my Friends.—Journey through the Western States.—Now Orleans.—Captain
Hawk of the Foam.—A Slaver.—Captain Searl of the Susanuah.
Chap. XIV.—Sail for the Havana.—Captain Hawk keeps his Promise.—A Sur-
prise.—I find that a Romautic Pirate and a Real Pirate are very differeat Persons,
—Am taken Prisoner.—And lose sight of the Susanuah.
Chap. XV.—Life on board the Rover.—Indulge in the pleasing reflection th&l
I may possibly hang as a Pirate.—I try to escape.—We chase.—We catch a Tar-
tar.—Mark Autony tries to induce me to turn Pirate.—We are chased.—A con
riderablc difference in tho sensation.
00


PUBLISHED BY C. 8. FRANCIS A CO., NEW YORK. »'
Stories of Old Daniel;
Or, Tales of Wonder nud Delight; containing Narratives introdao-
tory to History and Travels. 60 cents.
Tales from Shakspeare.
For the Use of Young Persons. By Charles and Mary Lamb.
With 40 Engravings. $1 00.
Tales of Illustrious Children.
Historical Stories. By Agnes Strickland. With Engravings. 50 cents.
Rose Marian,
And the Flower Fairies. Translated by L. Maria Child. With B-
I titrations. 25 cents.
Bible Cartoons.
Illustrations of Scripture History. From Designs by John Frank-
lin. Containing 16 Engravings of Scenes from the Lives of Adam,
Noah, Abraham, Joseph, and Moses, with descriptions in the words
of the Bible. 1 vol., 4to. 75 cents.
Ellen the Teacher.
A Tale for Youth. By Mrs. Hofland.
The Scottish Orphans.
A Moral Tale founded on an Historical Fact. By Mrs. Blackford,
author of " Arthur Monteith," " Eskdale Herd Boy," etc. (In press.)
The Good Grandmother
And her Offspring. By Mrs. Hofland. (In press.)
Keeper's Travels
In Search of his Master. Beprinted from the original edition. (In
press.)
The Book of Eutertainment
Of Curiosities and Wonders in Nature, Art, and Mind. Brawn
from the most authentic sources, and carefully revised. Fourth Se-
ries. With 80 Engravings. $1 00; extra gilt, $1 25.
The Barbadoes' Girl.
A Tale for Young People. By Mrs. Hofland. (In press.)
The Swan's Egg.
By Mrs. S. C. Hall. (In press.)
Orlandino.
A new Story. By Maria Edgeworth. (In press.)
xvii


PUBLISHED BY C. S. FRANCIS 61 CO., NEW YOR£.
Mark Seaworth;
A Tale of the Indian Ocean. By William H. G. Kingston, Esq.,
author of " Peter the Whaler," &c. 'Wtth illustrations by John
Absolon. Cloth, 75 cents; extra gilt, $1.
Travels of Rolando;
Or, A Tour Round the World. Translated by Miss Aiken. Newly
revised and corrected. With eight beautiful illustrations by Wil-
liam Harvey. Cloth, $1; extra gilt, $1.25.
Canadian Crusoes.
A Tale of the Bice Lake Plains. By Catharine Parr Trail, au-
thoress of " The Backwoods of Canada," &c. Edited by Agnes
Strickland. Illustrated by Harvey. Cloth, 75 cents; extra gilt, $1.
The Swiss Family Robinson;
Or, Adventures in a Desert Island. A new edition, in one volume,
revised and corrected. With eight illustrations by Gilbert.
Moral Tales.
By Mrs. Hofland. Including The Barbadoes Girl, The Good
Grandmother, and Ellen the Teacher. With engravings. Cloth,
75 cents; extra gilt, $1.
Mrs. Leicester's School.
The Histories of Several Young Ladies, related by themselves.
By Charles and Mary Lamb. A new edition, revised. 37J cents.
Book of Songs,
For My Little Brothers and Little Sisters. Mostly translated
from the German. With numerous engravings. 37J cents.
Sister Mary's Stories
About Animals. With thirty-three engravings, 62J cents. With
the engravings handsomely colored, 87£ cents.
The Nursery Gift;
Or, a Book of Books for the Little Ones. With 120 engravings,
75 cents. Colored engravings, $1.
Hints for Happy Hours;
Or, Amusement for all Ages. A new book of gameS, puzfcles, and
home entertainment. 62\ cents.


i