1 THE NEW YCF* PUBLIC LIBRARY TILDEN FOUNDATION. R a y -,' ..i. i '. ./ : V j . .-. 'IK • . . . -IK «-& < ■ '■A 'V v '-'-I..' •i; L -' MRS RORER'S PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK A MANUAL OK HOME ECONOMIES 4 MRS S T RORER Author of Hot Weather Dishes, Canning and Preserving, etc., Editor of Heutekold Nrivt; Principal of Philadelphia Cooking School; Lecturer before the University of Pennsylvania PHILADELPHIA ARNOLD AND COMPANY 420 LIBRARY STREET THS HEW YORK "mum ASTOR, LENOX AND TILDtW FOUNDATIONS K 1035 L Copyright 1886 by Mrs S T Rorer All Rights Reserved MADE BY GEORGE H BUCHANAN AND COMPANY 420 LIBRARY STREET 420 TO MY FRIEND Mrs Euza S Turner THROUGH WHOSE ENERGY AND LIBERALITY WAS ESTABLISHED THE FIRST COOKING SCHOOL IN PHILADELPHIA THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED "Men die, and many, because they know not how to live'' '' Come, pilgrim, I will bring you where you shall host" All's Well that Ends Well CONTENTS CO Preface . Soups Stock and Stock Soups Soups without Stock Fish Soups Chowders Fish Shell Fish . Meats Beef Mutton . Lamb Veal Pork What to Save and Poultry Game .... Forcemeats and Stuffings Meat and Fish Sauces and Gravies Stock for Sauces and Gravies Salads .... Modern Dinner-Giving How to Use it . Menus ,Eggs Vegetables Bread vh i 2 23 29 34 4i 55 79 82 112 121 122 142 157 165 202 219 221 222 233 247 249 253 261 3" vi PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Raised Rolls, Biscuits, etc. . . 322 Raised Muffins, Gems, etc. . . 326 Raised Waffles and Griddle Cakes 328 Quick Muffins, Waffles and Griddle Cakes 33i Soda and Milk Biscuits . . 337 Fritters, Doughnuts and Crullers . 34i Cereals . . . . 35i Macaroni ..... 358 Cheese ..... 363 To Cooks ..... 367 Pastry and Pies . . . 37i Puddings and Desserts . . . 389 Pudding Sauces .... 436 Ice Creams .... 445 Water-Ices and Sherbets . . 458 Jellies ..... 467 Plain Cakes, Buns, Etc. . . 475 Fancy Cakes .... 480 Candies ..... 5°9 Fruit . . . . .5i3 Canning and Preserving . . 5i9 Marmalades . . . 523 Pickling ..... 526 Catsups . ... 532 Drinks ..... 539 In the Kitchen and Pantry . . 544 Gathered Crumbs ... 549 How ...... 554 Suitable Combinations of Food . 560 Table of Weights and Measures . . 563 Index ..... 565 PREFACE To offer to the American housewives a new Cook Book may appear to many an unnecessary labor, con- sidering the country is already provided with elaborate works on the subject; but upon referring to many of them, I have often detected an obscurity in directions in recipes which, in the hands of an amateur, would lead to failure, and have in the following recipes endeavored to avoid this by making them so plain, that a beginner may successfully make, with few exceptions, any dish contained herein, and I may add, all these recipes have been prepared over and over again by pupils under my supervision. It has been many years since Philadelphia has contributed a publication of this kind, and as she occupies a place second to none in the science, her peculiar dishes being known not only in this country but abroad as well, it seems appropriate that she should be newly represented. (viQ viii PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Under each heading I have endeavored to give in a simple manner a brief introduction, explaining the chemistry of the article, mode of selecting, and such other information as I thought would be of interest to the reader. References to Sick Diet or Medicated Food have purposely been avoided, as there is in prepara- tion a work on Dietetics, which will contain all the recipes collected and tried during my connection with hospitals. "Before the housewife now my book is laid— 'T will aid her, if its teachings be obeyed" SARAH T RORER SOUPS The first and most important point in making good soup is to have the best of materials. To make our soup a perfect food we must change the solid meat into a liquid form; to do this, we must first soften the fibrin, so as to draw out the juices and blood, consisting of albumen and fat; the gelatine, which exists in the bone, cartilages, membranes and skin, which is nitrogenous matter, but not nutritious; and the osmazome, that substance which gives odor and flavor. As a low degree of heat changes the albumen {which is exactly similar to the white of an egg) into a solid form, we at once see the necessity of using cold soft water. Soft water, because it makes its way into the tissues more readily than hard water, thereby softening the texture of the meat and allowing the juices to escape more easily; and we also see the importance of not boiling the soup, as the albumen on the surface of the meat immediately coagulates and prevents the gelatine, fat and osmazome from dissolving and being drawn out into the water. Salt should never be added until the soup is done, as it hardens the water; and we have found that soft water is the best. As the water begins to heat a small portion of albumen coagulates, form- ing a fine fibrous net throughout the liquid entangling any substance that may be floating in it, bringing it first to the W 2 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK surface and then settling to the bottom, showing that we must watch and skim at this time to have a clear soup. You will notice that in the recipes for Consomme and Bouillon, to clarify, we boil after adding the whites of the eggs, thereby making a perfectly clear soup, but a stimulant rather than nutrient, as we rob it of its albumen and fibrin by boiling and straining; two things which cannot exist at the same time, a very clear and a very nutritious soup. Another very important point is to have a porcelain- lined or better still a granite iron soup kettle with a close cover. Why? Because the juices of the meat are always acid and will act upon a metallic kettle thereby giving the soup an inky, bitter taste. A close cover to keep in the steam and prevent evaporation and also to keep the dust and smoke out. SOUPS FROM STOCK SOUP STOCK i shin of beef 2 bay leaves 5 quarts of cold water 1 sprig of parsley 1 onion 12 cloves 1 carrot 1 stalk of celery 1 turnip 1 tablespoonful of salt Lean, uncooked juicy beef should form the basis of your soup. No cooked or stale meats should be used for clear stock. Wipe the meat well with a damp towel; now cut all the meat from the bones. Place the bones in the bottom of a large porcelain-lined or granite soup kettle, lay the meat on top of them, add the water and stand the kettle on the back part of the range for one hour; then place it over a good fire. After about thirty minutes, the scum of the meat will gather on the surface, and the water will begin to SOUPS s steam. Now place it over a more moderate fire, add one cup of cold water, and skim off the scum. Now cover the kettle closely and let it simmer (not boil) for four hours; then add the vegetables and simmer one hour longer. Then strain the stock through a fine sieve, add the salt and stand at once in a cold place to cool. If you keep it in a warm place for a few hours it will not make a nice jelly. When cold, take all the grease from the surface,and it is ready for use. BARLEY SOUP 2 tablespoon fuls of pearl barley i quart of stock Salt and pepper to taste Wash the barley in cold water; then cover it with boiling water, let it boil up once and drain it. Cover it again with boiling water and simmer it for two hours. Drain; add to the stock when boiling; let it stand on the back part of the range for ten minutes; add salt and pepper,and serve. BLACK BEAN SOUP i pint of turtle beans 2 hard-boiled eggs 1^ quarts of boiling water 1 lemon 1 quart of stock Salt and pepper to taste If you use wine, 1 gill Wash the beans well in cold water and soak them over night. In the morning, drain the water off and cover them again with one quart of the boiling water. Boil until tender, about two hours. Now add the stock and the pint of boil- ing water. Press the whole through a sieve; wash the kettle, return the soup and bring it to a boil; add salt and pepper. Cut the eggs and lemon into slices and put into the tureen, pour the boiling soup over,and serve. If wine is used, put it in the tureen with the lemon and egg. 4 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK DRIED BEAN SOUP i pint dried beans i quart of stock y2 pound of ham 1Y quarts of boiling water Salt and pepper to taste Wash the beans and soak them over night. In the morn- ing drain the water off, and cover them again with the boiling water; add the ham and boil gently two hours. Now add the stock. Press the beans through a sieve, return them to the soup kettle and bring to a boil. Add salt and pepper, and serve with toasted bread. DRIED BEAN SOUP WITHOUT MEAT i quart of dried white soup beans 2 quarts of water i large tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste Wash the beans, cover them with water and soak over night. Next morning, drain, put them on to boil with two quarts of fresh cold water. As soon as they come to a boil, drain this water off and throw it away, this prevents the soup from being strong. Now cover again with two quarts of fresh boiling water, add a quarter of a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda, and boil until reduced to a pulp. Now press the beans through a sieve, return to the soup kettle and add sufficient water to make the soup about the consistency of cream, add the salt, pepper and butter and serve with croutons. CLEAR SOUP WITH CROUTONS i quart of stock y2 pint of croutons Salt and white pepper to taste To make the croutons, cut stale bread into thin slices, spread it lightly with butter on one side, then cut into dice. (It will take about three slices from a baker's square SOUPS 6 five cent loaf.) Place them on a tin pie dish, and put them in a moderate oven until a golden brown. Melt the stock gradually, bring it to boiling point, add salt and pepper. Serve soup in a tureen with croutons on a separate dish. If you put them in the soup when you dish it, they will become heavy and waxy before it reaches the dining room. If the soup is too light, color it with caramel. (See recipe for making it.) CLEAR VEGETABLE SOUP 2 quarts of stock i white potato i quart of boiling water i car of corn i small carrot i cupful of peas i turnip i cupful of beans i sweet potato i tomato i tablespoonful of rice or barley Put the water into a soup kettle, cut the vegetables into pieces of uniform size, otherwise the smaller ones will dis- solve and impair the transparency of the soup. (There are various small tin cutters that can be purchased for this pur- pose.) Put the carrot and turnip on to boil; after they have boiled one hour, add all the other vegetables and rice and boil until tender. Now add the stock, and salt and pepper to taste. Let it boil up once and serve. JULIENNE SOUP 2 quarts of stock 2 onions or 6 young leeks 2 carrots i head of caul i flower i turnip i head of lettuce The white part of y2 a gill of green peas a head of celery z/2 a gill of asparagus heads Scrape and cut the carrots into slices, then into dice or with the vegetable cutters. Pare and cut the turnip; slice the 6 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK onions, cut the celery into pieces about half-inch long, and the head of cauliflower into flowerets. Put them into a kettle, cover with boiling water, and boil fifteen minutes; then drain them in a colander. Melt the stock and bring it to a boil; put the vege- tables from the colander into it and simmer half an hour. Put the peas and asparagus heads into boiling water and simmer them for twenty minutes; then drain and add them to the boiling soup, then the lettuce, cut into pieces the size of a half-dollar (the lettuce should cook about ten minutes); add salt and pepper,and serve at once. LENTIL SOUP i pint of lentils Sprig of thyme 2 quarts of stock i bay leaf i onion i tablespoonful of butter Sprig of parsley Salt and pepper to taste Wash the lentils and soak them over night. In the morn- ing drain off the water, add the stock and simmer gently until the lentils are tender, about one and a half hours. Put the butter into a frying-pan and, when melted, add the onion cut in slices, parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Fry (saute) until brown. Now add these to the lentils and simmer a half hour longer. Now press the whole through a sieve. Return it to the soup kettle, boil up once, add salt and pepper and serve with toasted bread cut into small squares. MACARONI SOUP i ounce of macaroni i quart of stock Salt and pepper to taste Break the macaroni into pieces about two inches long; put it into a stewing-pan and cover it with one quart of boiling SOUPS 7 water. Boil it for twenty minutes, drain and cut each piece in two. Melt the stock, bring it to boiling point, add the macaroni, let it simmer five minutes, add salt and pepper and serve. A plate of Parmesan may be served with this if liked. NOODLE SOUP (Beef) 2 quarts of stock The quantity of noodles given in recipe for noodles Salt and pepper Melt the stock, then bring it to boiling point, add the noodles; boil fifteen minutes; add salt and pepper and serve at once. If you use the bought noodles, four ounces will be sufficient. Boil and make just the same. ONION SOUP i large Spanish or three Bermudas 2 quarts of stock 2 tablespoonfuls of butter Salt and pepper Peel and chop the onion into dice. Put the butter in a frying pan; when hot, add the onions and stir until a nice brown. Put the stock on to boil; when it boils, skim the onions out of butter and add them to the stock, let them simmer, for thirty minutes, add salt and pepper and it is ready to serve. RICE SOUP 2 tablespoonfuls of rice 1 quart of stock Salt and pepper to taste Wash the rice and put it in a sauce-pan with one pint of boiling water, boil slowly for thirty minutes; drain and add to boiling stock. Let the whole boil five minutes, add salt and pepper and serve, 8 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK SAGO SOUP 2 quarts of stock 2 ounces of sago Salt and pepper to taste Wash the sago through several waters, then cover it with warm water and let it soak for one hour. Melt the stock and bring it to boiling point. Drain the sago, add it to the stock; let it boil slowly half an hour, stirring very often to prevent scorching. Add salt and pepper, and serve. SORREL SOUP 2 tablespoonfuls of butter i quart of stock i pint of sorrel Yolks of two eggs Salt and pepper to taste Put the butter in a sauce-pan, set it on the fire, and as soon as melted, put the sorrel in, and stir one minute; then add the stock, salt and pepper; boil three minutes. Beat the yolks lightly, put them into the tureen, pour the boiling soup over gradually, stirring all the while till thoroughly mixed. Serve with croutons. SPLIT PEA SOUP i pint of split peas i quart of stock l1/, quarts of boiling water Salt and pepper to taste Wash the peas in cold water (rejecting those which float) and soak them over night. In the morning drain the water off and cover them again with one quart of the boil- ing water. Boil until tender, about one and a half hours. Now add the stock and the one pint of boiling water. Press the whole through a sieve; wash the soup kettle, return the soup, boil up once, add salt and pepper and serve with croutons. Dried pea soup may be made in exactly the same manner, using one pint of dried peas instead of the split ones. SOUPS 9 TOMATO SOUP No. i I quart can or one quart i stalk celery of stewed tomatoes i bay leaf i quart water or stock 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 onion 4 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 carrot ^ pound of ham Cut the ham into dice and the onion into slices and fry them together until brown, then put them into a large saucepan with the water, bay leaf, celery and carrot; let the whole simmer for one hour; then add the tomatoes and simmer again for three-quarters of an hour. Now press the tomatoes through a sieve. Rub the butter and flour together until smooth, add it to the boiling soup, and stir constantly until it boils; add salt and pepper and serve with croutons. TOMATO SOUP No. a 1 quart can or one quart of stewed tomatoes 1 pint of stock or water (first the best) i tablespoonful of butter % teaspoonful of baking soda 2 tablespoonfuls of corn starch or flour 1 teaspoonful of sugar 1 small onion Sprig of parsley 1 bay leaf Salt and pepper to taste Put the tomatoes in a saucepan with the bay leaf, parsley, onion, and stock or water. Let all stew for fifteen min- utes. Now press them through a sieve fine enough to remove the seeds. Wash the saucepan, return the toma- toes to it. Put it on the fire to boil. Rub the butter and corn starch or flour together until smooth, and stir into the soup when boiling. Stir constantly until smooth. Now add salt, pepper, sugar and soda. Serve immediately with croutons. 10 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK TURKISH SOUP (Miss Dodd) i quart of stock Yolks of two eggs J^ teacupful of rice i tablespoonful of cream Salt and pepper to taste Boil together for twenty minutes the rice and stock; then press them through a sieve and return them to the kettle. Beat the yolks well and add to them the cream. Add this to the stock and rice, and stir it over the fire for two min- utes, but do not allow it to boil. Add salt and pepper, and it is ready to serve. VERMICELLI SOUP Vermicelli soup is made exactly the same as beef noodle soup, using four ounces of vermicelli instead of noodles. MEAT AND VEGETABLE SOUPS ALBERT SOUP i four-pound chicken 2 quarts of cold water 4 good-sized potatoes 1 onion 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 bay leaf Yolks of two eggs Sprig of parsley A grating of nutmeg Salt and pepper to taste Clean the chicken, put it in the soup kettle with the water, bay leaf, onion and parsley, and simmer gently two hours. Take out the chicken and remove the white meat, which chop very fine. Put the bones and the remainder of the chicken back into the kettle to simmer, while the potatoes are roasting. When the potatoes are done, take out the centres and mash well. Add to them the chopped meat of the chicken, butter, nutmeg, yolks of eggs, a quar- ter of a teaspoonful of salt, and a little pepper. Mix all SOUPS 11 well together. Form into balls about a half-inch in diam- eter, then fry them in butter until a light brown. Put them into the soup tureen. Strain the soup, skim all the fat from the surface, season with salt and pepper, let it boil up once, pour it over the balls and serve immediately. Should you be obliged to keep this soup waiting, allow the soup to remain hot in the kettle, and place the balls where they will keep warm. Put together at serving time. BOUILLON FOR PARTIES AND GERMANS 2 pounds of lean beef i stalk of celery, or i quart of cold water half teaspoonful i small onion of celery seed i bay leaf Sprig of parsley Free the meat from all fat and gristle and chop it fine (your butcher can do this best). Put the meat in the soup kettle with the water, bay leaf, parsley, onion and celery; cover the kettle closely and place it on the back part of the range for two hours. Then place it over a good fire; skim at the first boil. Now place it over a moderate fire and simmer gently four hours. Strain, return it to the soup kettle, add salt and pepper. Beat the white of one egg with half a cup of cold water until thoroughly mixed. Wash the egg shell, mash it and add it to the white. In breaking the egg, take care to separate it so nicely that none of the yellow gets into the white—as the smallest por- tion of the yellow will prevent the bouillon from being perfectly clear. Now add the white, shell and water to the boiling bouillon; let it boil hard for ten minutes; then thro%v in one gill of cold water and boil five minutes longer; then take the kettle off the fire and strain through a flannel bag, add salt to taste and color with caramel—about half a teaspoonful to a quart. (See recipe for Caramel.) 12 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK CALF'S HEAD SOUP i calf's head i small carrot 3 quarts of cold water Sprig of parsley 4 cloves i bay leaf i onion Sprig of sweet marjoram Salt and pepper to taste Wash the head well through three waters; scald it; wash it again in cold water, and soak it fifteen minutes. Be sure that throat and nasal passages are perfectly clean. Now put it into a soup kettle with the cold water. Bring il slowly to a boil and let it simmer gently for five hours, skimming it carefully until no more scum rises. Put in the vegetables and spices one hour before the soup is done. When done, strain and stand away to cool. Do this the day before you want to use it; when cool, remove all the fat from the surface. Make force-meat balls as fol- lows: one cup of meat from the head, chopped fine; add to it a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the grated peel of half a lemon, one raw egg, one tablespoonful of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt and a little black pepper. Mix well and form into little balls the size of a hickory nut. Fry them in butter until a golden brown. When ready to use bring the soup to boiling point, sea- son with a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. Put into a two-quart stewing-pan two ounces (two tablespoonfuls) of butter, and when it bubbles, stir in two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour. Mix well, add to this the soup, stir constantly until it boils. Put the force-meat balls into the tureen, pour over the boiling soup and, if you use it, add one glass of Sherry or Madeira. The brains should be taken out of the head before boiling. They can be used for another dish. (See recipe for cooking calf's brains.) SOUPS 13 CHICKEN SOUP No. i i chicken weighing four pounds i bay leaf 3 quarts of cold water Sprig of parsley i small onion y2 cup of rice Salt and pepper to taste Clean the chicken, put it in a soup kettle with the cold water, stand it on a moderate fire and bring it slowly to boiling point. Skim carefully. Let it simmer slowly, till the flesh drops to pieces, about three hours. Now add the onion, bay leaf, parsley, and simmer fifteen minutes. Now strain it. Wash the kettle and return the soup; add salt, pepper, and the rice, well washed. Cover the kettle and let it boil thirty minutes and it is ready to serve. CHICKEN SOUP No. 2 Take one old fowl weighing five pounds, cover it with three quarts of cold water, and simmer four hours or until the chicken is tender. After the chicken has been boiling two hours, add a tablespoonful of salt, a half cup of rice, a small onion. Serve the chicken whole with egg sauce; add pepper only to the soup. CONSOMME" 2 pounds of lean beef Stalk of celery 2 pounds of veal Sprig of parsley 1 onion Small-sized carrot 1 bay leaf 2 quarts of cold water 2 tablespoonfuls of butter The under part of the round of beef and the knuckle of veal are the best for this soup. Cut all the meat into pieces about an inch square. Put the butter in the soup kettle and let it brown; add to it the meat and stir over the fire about five minutes, or until the meat is a nice brown. Now cover the kettle and let it simmer for thirty minutes. Now 14 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK add the water and let simmer for four hours. Now add the vegetables and bay leaf and simmer one hour longer, strain through a sieve and put in a cold place to cool. When cold, remove the fat and it is ready to use. It can be clarified and colored the same as Bouillon. FRUIT SOUP i pint of cranberries or currants 2 quarts of water i teacupful of dried apples i teacupful of dried pears i teacupful of raisins 2 tablespoon fu Is of corn starch y2 pound of sugar Cut the apples and pears into small pieces, cover with luke- warm water and soak one hour. Stem and seed the raisins. Put the cranberries or currants into the water and boil fif- teen minutes; then press them through a sieve. Return to the soup kettle and add the apples, pears and raisins; boil all together one hour. Moisten the corn starch with a little cold water, add it to the boiling soup; stir constantly until it thickens, add the sugar and serve. GIBLET SOUP 2 sets of chicken giblets Sprig of parsley i pound of lean beef i tablespoonful of butter i onion iy2 quarts of cold water i carrot 3 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 bay leaf 6 hard-boiled eggs Wash the livers, open the hearts and remove the clotted blood. Cut open the gizzards, being eareful not to cut through the innermost lining; empty them of sand and gravel and then cut out the thick skin remaining. Put the butter in a frying-pan. Cut the vegetables into squares. Throw them into the hot butter and stir until a nice brown. SOUPS 15 Now skim them out and put them into a soup kettle with the beef, giblets, water, bay leaf and parsley. Place it over a moderate fire and let it simmer until the gizzards are tender, about two hours, skimming until clear. Now add the flour to the butter remaining in the pan after frying the vegetables; mix until smooth; strain the soup into it, and boil and stir until it thickens. Take out the giblets and cut them into dice, and put them in the soup tureen with the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs. Season the soup with salt and pepper, pour it over the giblets and eggs and serve at once. Do not use the beef. If you use wine, one gill will be sufficient. GUMBO SOUP No. i 1 chicken i y2 quarts of cold water 50 oysters i bay leaf 2 dozen okras i onion y pound of ham 2 tablespoonfuls of butter Salt and cayenne to taste Cut the chicken up as for a fricassee, dredge the pieces with flour and brown them in the butter. Put them into a soup kettle with the ham, cut into small squares, the onion and the bay leaf. Place the kettle over a moderate fire and bring slowly to a boil. Skim carefully at the first boil and sim- mer gently for two hours. Mow add the okras, cut into slices, and simmer one hour longer. Drain the oysters, add them to the soup, with the salt and cayenne. Boil two minutes longer and serve. GUMBO SOUP No. 2 i chicken 6 tomatoes or one pint i onion canned tomatoes y± pound of ham i bay leaf i tablespoonful of butter ^ cup of rice 1^ pints okras Salt and pepper to taste 16 . PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Cut the chicken same as No. i; cut the ham into squares and the onion into slices. Roll the chicken in flour and brown it in the butter. Then put it into a soup kettle with the ham, onion, bay leaf and water. Place it on a mode- rate fire, and bring it slowly to a boil, skimming carefully. Simmer gently forty-five minutes. In the meantime cover the okras with cold water and soak twenty minutes, cut them in slices and add them to the soup. Simmer gently one hour; then add the tomatoes, pared and cut into small pieces, and the rice. Boil half an hour longer, season and serve. GREEN PEA SOUP i quart of green peas i tablespoonful of butter i quart of stock or water i tablespoonful of flour Yolks of two eggs Salt and pepper to taste Put the peas in boiling water and boil them twenty minutes. Drain and press them through a colander. Put the stock or water on the fire; when boiling, add the peas. Rub the butter and flour together and stir them into the boiling soup; stir constantly until it thickens, add salt and pepper. Beat the yolks lightly, put them in the soup tureen, add the soup gradually to them, mix well and serve with squares of toasted bread. If you use canned peas, just press them through the colander. MOCK TURTLE SOUP i calf's head 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 pound of calf's liver 3 quarts of cold water 1 calf's heart 4 even tablespoonfuls of flour 1 bay leaf 1 tablespoonful of mushroom 1 carrot catsup 1 onion 1 tablespoonful of Worcester- 12 cloves shire sauce 1 turnip 2 hard-boiled eggs Bunch of pot-herbs 1 lemon Salt and pepper to taste SOUPS * 17 Have the butcher unjoint the jaws and take out the brains. Now wash the head well through several cold waters. Pour boiling water through the throat and nasal passages, then wash again in cold water. Now put it in the soup kettle and cover with the cold water; put it over a moderate fire. Skim at the first boil and again in fifteen minutes. Let it simmer until the meat on the head is tender, about two hours. Remove the head, take off the meat and tongue and put on the ice to cool. Put the bones back into the kettle, add the vegetables cleaned and cut into pieces, also the cloves and bay leaf. Let this simmer for two hours longer. Strain and put away over night to cool. Put the liver and heart in the ice-chest with the other meat. In the morning skim all the fat from the surface. Put the butter in a large stewing-pan and stir until a nice brown, then add the flour, mix well, and add the soup; boil and stir five minutes; have ready the meat from the head and half the liver cut into dice, add them to the soup and boil up once; then take from the fire and add the sauces, salt, pepper and, if you use wine, a glass of sherry. Slice the hard-boiled eggs and lemon, put them into the tureen, pour the boiling soup over and serve. MULLIGATAWNEY SOUP i chicken 3 small onions i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of curry powder 4 cloves Juice of half a lemon 2 quarts of cold water Salt to taste Cut the chicken up as for a fricassee; cut the onions into slices. Put the butter in a frying-pan, add the chicken and onions, and stir until a nice brown; now add the curry 18 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK powder, salt, cloves and lemon juice; mix well. Put into the soup kettle with the water, bring slowly to a boil, skim and simmer gently for two hours. Serve with boiled rice in a separate dish. Three rabbits may be used instead of the chicken, if preferred. MUTTON SOUP 6 pounds of the neck y2 cup of rice i onion i bay leaf 4 quarts of cold water Salt and pepper to taste Wipe the necks with a damp towel, put them in a soup kettle and cover with the water; bring slowly to a boil, skim carefully; cover and simmer gently for four hours. Strain and stand away over night to cool. In the morning remove all fat from the surface. Put the soup into the kettle, add the onion, bay leaf and rice. Simmer half an hour, season with salt and pepper and serve. NOODLE SOUP I chicken weighing four pounds 3 quarts of cold water i small onion i bay leaf Sprig of parsley The quantity of noodles given in recipe for noodles, or four ounces of bought noodles Clean the chicken, put it in the soup kettle with the cold water, stand it on a moderate fire and bring it slowly to boiling point. Skim carefully. Let it simmer gently two hours; then add the onion, bay leaf and parsley, and sim- mer one hour longer. Dish the chicken and serve it with egg sauce. Put the noodles into the soup and boil fifteen minutes; add salt . and pepper and serve. SOUPS 19 NORMANDY SOUP I knuckle of veal 4 quarts of cold water i quart of white button onions y2 baker's five-cent loaf i quart of cream 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour Salt and pepper to taste Put the veal in a soup kettle with the onions and water. Let it simmer slowly for two hours. Then add the bread, cut into slices. Let it simmer two hours longer. Then remove the knuckle and press the remaining ingredients through a sieve. Return it to the soup kettle. Rub the butter and flour together to a smooth paste, stir it into the boiling soup, and stir constantly until it thickens. Add the cream, salt and pepper and serve. This soup is delicious. OX-TAIL SOUP 2 ox-tails i turnip 2 tablespoonfuls of butter i bay leaf i onion 2 quarts of cold water 4 cloves or stock i carrot Salt and pepper to taste Wash and wipe the ox-tails. Cut them into pieces about one inch long. Put the butter into a frying-pan; when hot, throw in the ox-tails and stir until they turn brown, then skim them out, and put them into a soup kettle with the onion, the cloves, the carrot, the turnip, the bay leaf and the water or stock (the latter the best). Simmer until the tails are tender, about two hours. Then remove the vege- tables, add salt and pepper and serve. If you use wine, one glass of sherry. 20 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK PEPPER POT i knuckle of veal 2 medium-sized potatoes 1 pound of plain tripe 1 bay leaf 1 pound of honey-comb tripe 3 quarts of cold water Bunch of pot-herbs 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 onion 2 tablespoon fuls of flour y£ pound of suet Salt and cayenne to taste Wash the tripe well in cold water. Put it in a kettle, cover it with cold water and boil eight hours; this should be cooked the day before you want the soup. Wipe the knuckle with a damp towel, put it in a soup kettle, cover with the water, place it on the fire and bring slowly to a simmer, carefully skimming off the scum. Simmer gently for three hours, then strain and return soup to the kettle. Wash the pot-herbs, chop the parsley, rub off the thyme leaves, and cut only half the red pepper (they usually put a whole one in each bunch). Cut the potatoes into dice; add all these and the bay leaf to the soup. Cut the tripe into pieces one inch square. Cut the meat from the knuckle into small pieces; add these also to the soup; place it on the fire and, when at boiling point, season with the salt and cayenne. Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the boiling soup, and then fifty small dumplings made as follows: Chop the suet fine, measure it, and take double the quantity of flour, one-quarter of teaspoonful of salt, mix well together, moisten with ice water (about a quarter of a cup). Form into tiny dumplings about the size of a marble, throw into the soup, simmer for fifteen minutes and serve. RABBIT SOUP 2 young rabbits 1 bay leaf 2 quarts of cold water y2 cup of rice 1 good-sized onion 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 blade of mace Salt and pepper SOUPS 21 Skin and singe the rabbits. Wash them well in warm water. Cut them in small pieces and put in a soup kettle. Cover with the water, add the onion, mace and bay leaf. Place on a moderate fire and simmer gently until the meat is tender, about an hour and a half. Strain and return the soup to the kettle; add the rice, salt and pepper, and simmer for a half hour; add the butter; separate the meat from the bones and add it to the soup, which is then ready to serve. SOUP a la REINE i fowl weighing five pounds 4 cloves 3 quarts of cold water 3 tablespoonfuls of butter y2 cup of rice 2 tablespoonfuls of flour ]/ pint of good cream i blade of mace i carrot i piece of cinnamon half i onion an inch long i bay leaf Salt and pepper to taste Clean the fowl, put it in the soup kettle with the water, rice, mace, cloves, cinnamon and bay leaf. Cover the kettle and simmer gently two hours. Clean the vegetables and cut them into squares. Put the butter in a frying-pan; when hot, throw in the vegetables and stir until a nice brown; then skim them out, put them in the soup kettle, cover and simmer one hour longer. Now add the flour to the butter left in the frying-pan (if the butter is burned take fresh butter), mix and stir into the soup. Skim as it boils after adding the butter. Now take out the chicken; remove the white meat, chop it very line and put it back into the soup. Remove the carrot and spices and press the rest through a sieve. Wash the kettle, return the soup, add the cream, salt and pepper; boil up once and serve. If you use wine, one gill at serving time. 22 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK VEGETABLE SOUP WITHOUT MEAT i carrot i root of celery i sweet potato i tablespoonful of butter i turnip # 2 tablespoonfuls of rice i parsnip 2 quarts of cold water 1 white potato 1 bay leaf 1 onion 1 teaspoon ful of salt 1 sprig of parsley Cut the vegetables into dice. Put the butter into a frying- pan; and, when hot put in all the vegetables but the white potato and fry until a light brown. Then turn the whole, butter and all, into a soup kettle, add the water, rice, bay leaf, salt, parsley and celery. Let them boil slowly one and a quarter hours. Then add the white potato; boil fifteen minutes longer, season to taste and serve. VEGETABLE SOUP WITH SHIN OF BEEF 1 shin of "beef 1 teacupful of chopped 5 quarts of cold water cabbage 1 turnip 2 tablespoonfuls of barley 1 carrot 1 onion 1 parsnip 1 potato 1 root of celery Salt and pepper to taste Wipe the shin with a damp towel. Put it into a soup kettle, add the water, place it over a moderate fire and bring it slowly to a boil. Skim off all the scum and let it simmer gently four hours. Remove the meat, plate it where it will keep warm for dinner. Skim off all the fat from the top of the soup. Clean the vegetables and cut them into dice (you may chop them if you like in a chopping bowl). Add them to the soup. Scald the barley and let it stand five minutes, then add it to the soup. Simmer the whole one hour longer. Season to taste and it is ready to serve. Rice may be used in the plate of barley. SOUPS 23 CREAM SOUPS VEAL STOCK 2 knuckles of veal i bay leaf 5 quarts of cold water i turnip i tablespoonful of salt Stalk of celery i onion Sprig of parsley i carrot 4 cloves i blade of mace Wipe the knuckles with a damp towel and have the bones cracked. Put them into a soup kettle with cold water and salt. Place on a moderate fire and bring slowly to a boil; skim. Now simmer gently for four hours. Clean the vegetables and add them and all the other ingredients to the soup and simmer one hour longer. Strain and it is ready to use. WHITE STOCK Skeletons of yesterday's chickens 3 pounds of veal i pound of ham Sprig of parsley i bay leaf i small onion 2 quarts of water i tablespoonful of salt Put the skeletons, veal, ham and water in a soup kettle, place over a moderate fire, bring it slowly to a boil. Skim carefully. Now simmer gently two hours. Add the parsley, bay leaf, onion and salt. Simmer one hour longer. Strain and put in a cold place to cool. When cold re- move the fat and it is ready to use. 24 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK CREAM OF ASPARAGUS SOUP i bunch of asparagus i quart of milk 2 even tablespoonfuls of corn starch or flour i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste Wash the asparagus, tie it in a bunch, put it in a sauce-pan of boiling water. Boil gently three-quarters of an hour. Take it from the water, cut off the tops, put them aside until wanted. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Press he asparagus stalks through a colander, add them to the milk. Rub the butter and corn starch or flour together until smooth, add to the boiling milk and stir constantly, until it thickens. Now add the asparagus tops, salt and pepper and serve. Canned asparagus may be used when you cannot get the fresh. One quart can will be sufficient. This soup may be varied by using one pint of veal or white stock and one pint of milk, instead of the one quart of milk. CREAM OF BARLEY SOUP 2 tablespoonfuls of barley i pint of veal or white i pint of milk stock Yolks of two eggs Salt and pepper to taste Scald the barley, drain, cover with fresh boiling water and boil three hours. Strain. Put the milk and stock on to boil, add the barley, salt and pepper. Beat the yolks lightly, put them in the soup tureen, pour over the boiling soup and serve at once. CREAM OF CELERY SOUP 3 roots of celery 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 quart of milk 1 pint of water 1 tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste A piece of onion the size of a silver quarter SOUPS 25 Wash the celery and cut it into small pieces. Cover it with the water and boil thirty minutes; then press it through a colander. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler, add to it the water and celery that was pressed through the col- ander, also the onion. Rub the butter and flour together, and stir into the boiling soup, and stir constantly until it thickens. Add salt and pepper and serve at once. This may be varied same as cream of asparagus soup. CREAM OF CHEESE or DUCHESS SOUP i quart of milk A slice of carrot A slice of onion A blade of mace 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 3 heaping tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese Yolks of two eggs Salt and pepper Put the milk on to boil in the farina boiler, with the carrot, onion and mace. Rub the butter and flour together. Re- move the vegetables from the milk, add the butter and flour, and stir constantly until it thickens. Add the cheese, and stir three minutes. Now take it from the fire, add the beaten yolks of the eggs, salt and pepper and serve at once. This soup cannot be heated over. Veal stock may be used in this soup same as cream of asparagus soup. CREAM OF CORN SOUP i pint of grated corn 3 tablespoonfuls of butter 3 pints of boiling water or, 2 even tablespoonfuls of flour better, veal stock Yolks of two eggs i pint of hot milk Salt and pepper to taste Put the cobs from which you have removed the corn in the boiling water or stock and boil slowly half an hour. Re- 26 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOR move them, put in the corn and boil till very soft, about twenty minutes, then press it through a sieve. Season and let it simmer while you rub the butter and flour together; add these to the soup and stir it constantly until it thickens. Now add the boiling milk, cook one minute, then add the beaten yolks, and serve immediately. CREAM OF LIMA BEAN SOUP i quart of very young i tablcspoonful of butter lima beans 2 even tablespoonfuls of flour 1 pint of milk . Salt and pepper to taste 1 pint of veal stock Yolks of two eggs Put the beans in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, boil slowly thirty minutes. Drain and press them through a colander. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Add the beans to the stock. Rub the butter and flour together; add to the boiling milk; stir constantly until it thickens. Now add this to the stock. Let it all boil up once, then add the beaten yolks of the eggs. CREAM OF PEA SOUP No. 1 Shell half a peck of green peas, wash the pods, put them into a soup kettle with plenty of cold water; boil until tender; drain and throw away the pods. Put the peas into this water and boil them three-quarters of an hour. Take out one cup of the peas and mash the rest through a sieve. Put them back again into the soup kettle (the soup should now measure about a pint); add three pints of rich milk and the cup of peas; let it come to a boil. Rub a quarter of a pound of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour to a smooth paste and stir into the soup; add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, season with pepper and salt. A table- spoonful of white sugar and a sprig of mint are pleasant additions. SOUPS 27 CREAM OF PEA SOUP No. a i pint of canned peas i tablespoonful of butter i quart of milk 2 even tablespoonfuls of flour Salt and pepper to taste Press the peas through a colander. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler; as soon as it boils, add to it the peas that have been pressed through the colander. Rub the butter and flour together, add them to the boiling soup and stir constantly until it thickens. Add salt and pepper and serve immediately. POTATO SOUP 4 good-sized potatoes Stalk of celery 1 quart of milk 1 bay leaf 1 piece of onion the size of 1 tablespoonful of butter a silver quarter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 sprig of parsley Salt and pepper to taste Put the potatoes on to boil in one quart of cold water. When they are half done (about fifteen minutes) drain all the water off and cover them again with one pint of fresh boiling water; add the bay leaf, onion, parsley and celery, and boil until the potatoes are done. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Now press the potatoes through a sieve or vegetable press. Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the boiling milk until it thickens. Now pour this over the potatoes, stir until smooth and serve immedi- ately. This soup cannot stand or be warmed over. CREAM OF RICE SOUP y teacupful of rice ^ of a small onion 1 quart of white stock 1 stalk of celery 1 quart of cream or milk 1 bay leaf 1 tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste Wash the rice carefully, add it to the cold stock with the bay leaf, onion and celery. Simmer slowly two hours. 28 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Press it through a sieve, return it to the soup kettle, add the butter, cream or, milk, salt and pepper and stir con- stantly, until it just comes to a boil, when it is ready to serve. Cream of barley soup may be made the same as above, simmering the barley four hours. CREAM OF SAGO SOUP y cupful of sago Sprig of parsley i quart of veal or white stock i bay leaf i pint of cream or milk i small onion 2 even tablespoonfuls of flour i tablespoonful of butter Wash the sago well in cold water, cover with clean cold water and soak three hours. Put the stock in the soup kettle with the onion, parsley and bay leaf. Drain the sago, add it to the stock and simmer slowly for half an hour. Now take out the onion, bay leaf and parsley. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the milk when boiling. Stir con- stantly until it thickens. Now pour this into the soup kettle, add seasoning and serve. SALSIFY or OYSTER PLANT SOUP i bunch or one dozen salsify roots i quart of milk i tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour Salt and pepper to taste Scrape the salsify, cut it into slices, cover it with boiling water, about one pint, and boil slowly one hour, or until tender; then add the milk (do not drain off the water). Rub the butter and flour together, add it, six whole allspice, a blade of mace and a bay leaf, and stir the soup con- stantly until it boils, add the seasoniqg and let stand on the back part of the stove for ten minutes. Take out the bay leaf and serve. SOUPS 29 CREAM OF TAPIOCA SOUP Cream of tapioca soup is made Ihe same as cream of sago soup, using a half cup of tapioca instead of a half cup of sago. CREAM OF TOMATO or MOCK BISQUE SOUP , i quart of milk i pint can of tomatoes, or one pint of stewed tomatoes i large tablespoon ful of butter i bay leaf Sprig of parsley Blade of mace i teaspoon ful of sugar ^ teaspoonful of baking soda 2 tablespoonfuls of flour Put the tomatoes on to stew with the bay leaf, parsley and mace; let them stew for fifteen minutes. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Rub the butter and flour together, add to the milk when boiling and stir constantly until it thickens. Now press the tomatoes through a sieve and, if ready to use the soup, add the sugar and soda to the tomatoes, and then the boiling milk; stir and serve imme- diately. It must not go on the fire after mixing the milk with the tomatoes, or it will separate. If you are not ready, let them ftand on the fire separately and mix them when wanted. FISH SOUPS BISQUE OF LOBSTER 2 hen lobsters i tablespoon ful of butter 2 quarts of veal stock i tablespoon ful of flour Season with salt, black and cayenne pepper 30 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Boil the lobsters and open. (See directions for boiled lob- sters.) Cut the meat into dice. Bruise the shells and small claws and add them to the stock, and simmer thirty minutes. Pound and mix the spawn, if any, the fat, and two tablespoonfuls of the meat, part of the coral, the butter and flour, until reduced to a pulp. Strain the stock and add it gradually to the pulp, stirring all the while. Now add the seasoning, return it to the fire, add the lobster meat and the remainder of the coral rubbed fine, and serve immediately. HALIBUT SOUP i pound of halibut i small onion i quart of milk i bay leaf 2 tablespoonfuls of flour Sprig of parsley i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste Put the fish in a sauce-pan, add the bay leaf, parsley and onion, cover with boiling water and simmer for fifteen min- utes. Take the fish carefully out of the water, remove the centre bone and skin and mash the flesh fine in a colander. (It is not necessary to press it through.) Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Rub the butter and flour to- gether, add to the milk when boiling, stir until it thickens, then add the fish, salt and pepper; let it heat up thoroughly and it is ready to serve. Any white fish may be used in place of halibut. CLAM SOUP No. i 25 clams 2 tablespoonfuls of flour il/t pounds of veal or 1 pint of milk or cream one knuckle 1 bay leaf 1 quart of water 1 small onion 2 tablespoonfuls of butter Sprig of parsley Put the veal or knuckle into a soup kettle with the water, onion, parsley, bay leaf and the liquor drained from the clams. Simmer slowly, one and a half hours, skimming SOUPS 31 carefully. Then strain the soup and return it to the kettle. Rub the butter and flour together, add to the soup when boiling and stir constantly until it boils again. Chop the clams fine, add them to the soup, then the seasoning; let all boil five minutes, then add the milk or cream and take from the fire at once. If you boil it after adding the milk it will curdle. CLAM SOUP No. 2 50 clams 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 pint of milk 1 dozen water crackers 1 pint of water Pepper to taste Drain the clams and put the liquor on to boil; chop the clams fine. Skim the liquor, as it boils, free from all scum, then add the water, clams and pepper, and simmer for five minutes; add the butter and then the milk; let it heat (but not boil). Take from the fire, add the crackers, broken into small pieces, and serve at once. SALMON SOUP 1 pound of fresh salmon 1 tablespoon ful of butter 1 pint of milk 2 tablespoon fuls of flour 1 pint of veal stock Salt and pepper to taste Wash the salmon, put it in a saucepan, cover it with boil- ing water and simmer for fifteen minutes. Take from the water, remove the skin and bones and mash the flesh in a colander. Put the milk and stock on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together, add them to the stock and milk when boiling, stirring constantly until it thickens. Now add the salmon, let it come to a boil and serve. Canned salmon may be used in place of fresh. GREEN TURTLE SOUP (The Caterer) The day before you intend to dress the turtle cut off its head; and to do this properly you should hang up the victim with its head downwards, use a very sharp knife and make the incision as close to the head as ];os-;ible. You must not be 32 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK surprised at seeing, many hours after the decollation, the creature exhibit extraordinary signs of muscular motion, by the flapping of his fins. Separate the upper from the lower shell, and in this operation be very careful not to touch the gall bladder, which is very large and, if pene- trated, would completely destroy the flesh over which its contents ran. Cut the meat of the breast in a half-dozen pieces; abstract the gall and entrails and throw them away at once. Separate the fins as near the shell as possible, abstract the green fat and put it on a separate dish from the white meat. Boil the upper and lower shells in water suffi- ciently long to enable you to take away the bones. Then remove with a spoon the mucilage that you find adhering to the shells; put this also in a separate dish. Into the largest stewpan your kitchen affords put the head, fins, liver, lights, heart and all the flesh, a pound of ham, nine or ten cloves, a couple of bay leaves, a good-sized bunch of sweet herbs (such as winter savory, marjoram, basil, thyme), a silver onion cut into slices and a bunch of parsley. Cover all these with the liquor in which you have boiled the shells and let it simmer till the meat be thor- oughly done, which you can ascertain by pricking with a fork and observing if any blood exudes; when none ap- pears, strain the liquor through a fine sieve and return it to the stewpan, which may remain at some distance from the fire. Cut the meat into square bits of about an inch. Put the herbs, onion, etc., into a separate saucepan with four ounces of butter, three or four lumps of sugar and a bottle of Madeira; let this boil slowly. Whilst this is doing, melt in another saucepan half a pound of fresh butter and, when quite dissolved, thicken it with flour, but do not make it too thick, and then add a pint of the liquor from the shells; let this boil very gently, removing the scum as it rises. SOUPS 33 When both these saucepans are ready, strain the con- tents of the first through a sieve, and this done, add both to the stewpan. Warm up the liquor from the shells, the green fat and mucilage and put them and the meat into the stewpan with the yolks of a dozen hard-boiled eggs, the juice of half a dozen green limes and two teaspoon- fuls of cayenne. Gently warm up the whole together, and you may regard your cookery as complete. Fill as many tureens as your soup will permit, and, as these are required for the table, take especial care to warm the soup before serving by putting the tureens in a hot water bath (bain- marie); boiling it up a second time would deprive this delicious preparation of its true flavor. OYSTER SOUP 50 oysters 1 dozen pepper-corns 1 pint of cold water 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 pint of milk 1 tablespoonful of corn starch Salt and pepper to taste Put the oysters in a colander to drain, then pour over them the cold water and allow it to drain into the liquor. Now pour the liquor into the soup kettle, set the kettle over a good fire and when it boils skim it. Now add the milk and the pepper-corns. Rub the butter and corn starch together until smooth and add them to the mixture as soon as it boils. Stir constantly until it boils again. Wash the oysters, after draining, by allowing cold water to run over them through the colander. Now add them to the soup, stir continually, until it comes to a boil, add the salt and pepper. Serve immediately. Do not allow the oysters to boil, as it destroys their flavor and makes them tough. But be equally careful that the oysters are heated through, as nothing is more objec- tionable than a cold, uncooked oyster in a hot soup. CHOWDERS CLAM CHOWDER 50 clams i pound of veal y2 pound bacon or ham i pint of stewed or canned tomatoes i pint of water i pint of milk 6 water crackers or three sea biscuit 1 teaspoonful of thyme i teaspoonful of sweet marjoram i tablespoonful of chopped parsley 3 medium-sized potatoes Salt and pepper to taste Line the bottom of the saucepan with the bacon or ham cut into dice. Pare and cut the potatoes into dice. Chop the onion fine. Cut the veal into pieces a half-inch square. Chop the clams. Mash the crackers. Now put a layer of the potatoes on the bacon or ham, and then a sprinkling of onion, thyme, sweet marjoram, parsley, salt and pepper, and then a layer of veal, then tomatoes, then a layer of chopped clams, and continue these alternations until it is all in, having the last layer clams. Now add the water, which should be boiling and barely cover the whole. Cover closely, place on a slow fire and simmer for half an hour without stirring. Then add the milk and crackers, stir and cook ten minutes longer and serve very hot. The tomatoes may be omitted if not liked. (34) CHOWDERS 35 CORN CHOWDER 1 quart of grated corn 3 tablespoonfuls of flour 4 good-sized potatoes 1 pint of milk 2 medium-sized onions 6 water crackers }4 pound of bacon or ham Yolk of one egg i large tablespoonful of butter }4 pint of boiling water Pare and cut the potatoes and onions into dice. Cut the bacon or ham into small pieces and put it into a frying- pan with the onions and fry until a nice brown. Put a layer of potatoes in the bottom of a saucepan, then a sprinkling of bacon or ham and onion, then a layer of corn, then a sprinkling of salt and pepper, then a layer of potatoes, and so on, until all is in, having the last la^fr corn. Now add the water and place over a very moderate fire and simmer for twenty minutes. Then add the milk. Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the boiling chowder. Add the crackers, broken; stir, and cook five minutes longer. Taste to see if properly seasoned, take it from the fire, add the beaten yolk of the egg and serve. FISH CHOWDER 3 pounds of fish y£ pound of bacon or ham i pint of milk i tablespoonful of thyme 3 medium-sized potatoes i teaspoonful of sweet 1 quart of water marjoram 1 pint of stewed or canned 6 water crackers or three tomatoes sea biscuit i large-sized onion Salt and pepper to taste Cut the fish, the potatoes, the onion, and bacon or ham, into pieces about a half-inch square. Now put the bacon or ham and the onion into a frying-pan, stir and fry them a light brown. Put a layer of the potatoes in a sauce- pan, then a layer of fish, then a sprinkling of onions 36 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK and bacon or ham, then a layer of tomatoes, then a sprinkling of thyme and sweet marjoram, salt and pepper, and continue these alternations until all is in, having the last layer potatoes. Now add the water. Cover closely, place it over a moderate fire and let it simmer twenty minutes without stirring. In the meantime put the milk in a farina boiler and break into it the crackers; let it stand three minutes. Now add this to the chowder, stir, let it boil once, see that it is properly seasoned and serve very hot. The tomatoes may be omitted if not liked. POTATO CHOWDER 6 good-sized potatoes i tablespoonful of chopped i tablespoonful of flour parsley i good-sized onion i tablespoonful of butter % pound of bacon or ham i pint of milk i pint of water Pare and cut the potatoes into dice and chop the onion fine. Cut the bacon or ham into small pieces. Put the bacon or ham and the onion in a frying-pan and fry until a light brown. Now put a layer of potatoes in the bottom of a saucepan, then a sprinkling of the ham or bacon, onion, parsley, salt and pepper, then a layer of potatoes, and so on until all is used. Add the water, cover closely and simmer twenty minutes. Then add the milk. Rub the butter and flour together, add to the boiling chowder and stir carefully until it boils. Taste to see if properly seasoned; if not, add more salt and pepper and serve. ADDITIONAL RECIPES 38 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK ADDITIONAL RECIPES PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK FISH The flesh of all fish out of season is unwholesome; to be eatable they should be perfectly fresh, the eyes clear, the gills red, the scales bright, the flesh firm and free from any unpleasant odor and, to secure the best flavor, should be cooked as soon as possible after leaving the sea, river or pond. They should be scaled and cleaned as soon as they come home from the market, washed quickly without soaking, removing the smallest atom of blood. Sprinkle salt on the inside and put them in a cold place until wanted. If necessary to keep them over night, place where the moon will not shine on them, as the effect is as bad as the hot sunshine. Cod, haddock and halibut may be kept a day before using, but mackerel and whitefish lose their life as soon as they leave the water. The fat or oil of most fish is found in their livers, consequently the flesh is white. Salmon, herring, mackerel, sturgeon and catfish are exceptions, having the oil distributed throughout the body, thereby giving color to the flesh. STOCK FOR BOILING FISH 5 pounds of haddock 4 whole cloves 1 onion 1 stalk of celery 2 bay leaves 2 sprigs of parsley 3 quarts of cold water (4.) 42 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Clean and wash the fish; cut it into pieces about three inches square; put it into a soup kettle, with the water, onion, bay leaves, cloves, celery and parsley; place it over a moderate fire and skim at the first boil. Simmer gently for two hours, then strain, add a tablespoonful of salt and it is ready for use. This makes a nice soup for Lent, served clear, with croutons. BOILED FISH Wash the fish well in cold water. Wipe it carefully, and rub it with a little salt. Wrap it in a cloth; cheese cloth will answer. Have the cloth just large enough to envelop the fish. Sew the edges so that there will be but one thick- ness of the cloth over any part of the fish. Now put it into a fish kettle if you have one; if not you may lay it on a platter, tie fish and platter together in a cloth and put it in the bottom of a large saucepan. Cover with boiling water, add one tablespoonful of salt and simmer very gently ten minutes to every pound of fish. Take the fish from the water the moment it is done; drain, remove the cloth care- fully, turn the fish on to the plate; garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. Serve with either shrimp, oyster, Hollandaise or caper sauce, or plain drawn butter. All cold boiled fish left may be utilized in making salads, croquettes or a la cremes. This is a general rule for boiling all kinds of fish. BOILED SALMON STEAKS Have the steak about two inches thick; wrap in a cloth, put in a kettle of boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt and simmer twenty minutes. Serve with lobster or shrimp sauce. Rub the coral of the lobster fine and sprinkle over the fish. Halibut steaks may be boiled and served in the same way. FISH TO BOIL SALT CODFISH Wash the fish well in cold water. Cover it with fresh cold water and soak over night. In the morning, wash it again; put it into a kettle, cover with cold water, place over a hot fire and bring it to boiling point. Now stand it over a more moderate fire for four hours. If it boils, the fish will become hard. When done, dish and serve with drawn butter. TO FRY FISH "Small fish should swim twice, once in water and once in oil" Perch, brook trout, catfish and all small fish are best fried. They should be cleaned, washed well in cold water and immediately wiped dry, inside and outside, with a clean towel, and then sprinkled with salt. Use oil if con- venient, as it is very much better than either dripping or lard. Never use butter as it is apt to burn and has a ten- dency to soften the fish. See that the oil, lard or dripping is boiling hot, before putting in the fish. Throw in a crumb of bread; if it browns quickly, it is hot enough and the fish will not absorb any grease. FRIED SMELTS To clean them, make a slight opening at the gills, then draw them between the thumb and finger, beginning at the tail. This will press out all the insides. Wash and wipe them. Now sprinkle them with salt; dip them first in beaten eggs, and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Garnish with parsley and slices of lemon, and serve with sauce Tartare. All small fish may be fried in the same way. 44 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK FRIED HALIBUT Cut the halibut steak into pieces about two inches square. Beat an egg, same as for fried oysters; season the halibut with salt and pepper, dip first in the egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry a nice brown in boiling fat. Lay on brown paper to drain and serve on a hot dish. FRIED WHITEFISH ETC. Scale and wash the fish. Trim off the fins and take out the gills. Wipe it dry immediately. Dredge it with salt, pepper and flour. Put four tablespoonfuls of dripping or lard in a frying-pan; when hot, put the fish into it. Brown on one side, then turn and brown on the other. When done, take out carefully, put on a hot dish, garnish with parsley and serve. Bass, bluefish, porgies, flounders, weakfish and herring may be fried in the same way. TO BROIL FISH This is one of the nicest ways of cooking shad, bluefish, mackerel, salmon and the large trout. Always use a double broiler. Rub it well with a piece of suet before put- ting the fish in. A fish weighing four pounds will take half an hour to cook over a clear but moderate fire. The flesh side should be first exposed to the fire, then the skin. Great care must be taken not to burn the skin side. When the fish is done, separate it carefully from the broiler with a knife so as not to break the nice brown outside. Sprin- kle with salt and pepper, and spread it with butter, stand it in the oven for a moment and it is ready to serve. For broiling, the fish should be cleaned and split* down the back, leaving on the head and tail. FISH 45 BROILED HALIBUT or SALMON Have the steak cut one inch thick, wash it quickly and care- fully, dry it with a towel, place it on a broiler and broil over a clear fire (not too hot) for ten minutes or until a nice brown on one side; then turn and broil on the other side. Put on a hot dish, spread with butter, dredge with salt and pepper on both sides, garnish with pars- ley and serve. HALIBUT STEAK a la FLAMANDE Take a halibut steak an inch and a half thick, wash and wipe it dry. Butter the bottom of a roasting pan, sprinkle it with chopped onion, salt and pepper; put the fish on top of this, brush it over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle thickly with chopped onion, parsley, salt and pepper, pour over it a teaspoonful of lemon juice, cover with a tablespoonful of butter cut into small bits and bake in a moderate oven thirty minutes. Serve on a hot dish, with Bechamel sauce and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. BROILED MACKEREL (Salt) Wash and scrape all the thin black skin from the inside. Soak the fish in a large pan full of cold water over night. In the morning wash it in fresh water and wipe it. Brush it with melted butter, dredge lightly with pepper, lay it on a greased broiler and broil with the flesh side down over a clear fire; then turn and broil the skin side. Be careful as it will burn very quickly on this side. When done lay it on a hot dish and spread with butter or serve with maitre d'hdtel sauce. 46 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK BROILED SMOKED SALMON Cut a piece of the salmon the size you wish. Wash it well in cold water, then cover it with boiling water and let it stand on the back part of the stove where it will keep warm (not hot) for twenty-five minutes. Then take it out, wipe dry and broil the same as mackerel. BAKED SHAD Scrape free from all scales, make a short opening down the belly and take out the insides; wash well inside and out and immediately wipe dry with a clean towel. Rub it well with salt. Make a dressing of one cup of stale bread crumbs, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one tablespoon- ful of chopped parsley, a half teaspoonful of salt and a little black pepper; mix well and stuff the body of the fish and sew it up with soft yarn. Now score one side of the fish with a sharp knife, making the scores about an inch apart, and put a strip of salt pork in each gash. Grease a tin sheet, if you have one, place it in the bottom of a baking- pan, put the fish on it, dredge thickly with salt, pepper and flour; cover the bottom of the pan with boiling water and put into a hot oven. Bake fifteen minutes to every pound of fish, basting each ten minutes with the gravy in the pan. As the water evaporates add more to again cover the bottom of the pan. When done, lift the tin sheet from the pan and slide the fish carefully into the centre of the dish on which it is to be served; garnish with slices of lemon, fried potato balls and parsley; serve with sauce Hollandaise or roe sauce. If you have no tin sheet, place the fish in the bottom of a baking-pan and when done loosen it carefully and slide it into the dish. Rock fish may be baked in exactly the same manner. FISH 47 PLANKED SHAD This is the very best way of cooking shad :— The plank should be three inches thick, two feet long, one and a half feet wide and of well-seasoned hickory or oak. Pvne or soft wood gives the fish a woody taste. Take a fine shad just from the water, scale, split it down the back, clean it, wash well and immediately wipe dry. Dredge it with salt and pepper. Place the plank before a clear fire to get very hot. Then spread the shad open and nail it, skin side next to the hot plank, with four large-headed tacks. Put it before the fire with the large end down; in a few minutes turn the board so that the other end will be down, and do this every few minutes until the fish is done. To tell when it is done pierce it with a fork; if the flesh be flaky it is done. Spread with butter and serve on the plank or draw the tacks carefully and slide the shad on to a hot dish. The whitefish caught in the lakes are excellent when cooked in this manner. HOW TO CURE AND SMOKE SHAD ETC. Scale, cut the fish up the back, clean, and take out the roe. Wipe the fish with a damp cloth but do not wash them. To twenty pounds of fish allow one pint of salt, one pint brown sugar and one ounce of saltpetre. Mix these all well together. Rub the fish well inside and out with this mixture. Put one fish over the other with a board on top, and on this place heavy weights to press them down. Allow them to remain so for sixty hours, then drain them, wipe dry, stretch open and fasten with small pieces of stick. Smoke them for five days in a smoke-house or in a box, or some such place, over a smothered wood fire. Whitefish, salmon and other large fish may be smoked in the same way. 48 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK CODFISH BALLS 2 cups of picked codfish (salt) i tablespoonful of butter 2 cups of mashed potatoes % cup of cream ^ of a teaspoonful of pepper Pick the codfish into small pieces; soak it in cold water for half an hour; then drain and pour over it enough boiling water to cover; let it stand on back part of the fire for fifteen minutes. Drain and press out all the water, then mix it with the potatoes, which should be well beaten, add all the other ingredients, beat well. Form into balls, roll first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs and fry in boiling fat or oil. STEWED SALT CODFISH i cup of picked codfish i quart of milk 2 medium-sized potatoes ^ cup of bread crumbs Butter the size of an egg Salt and pepper to taste Cover the codfish with cold water and soak two hours. Pare and cut the potatoes into dice, put them in a stewing- pan, cover them with boiling water and boil until tender; drain, add to them the milk, the butter and the bread crumbs. Drain the fish and scald it, and drain again; add it to the other ingredients, let it boil up once, add salt and pepper and serve very hot. SALT CODFISH WITH CREAM SAUCE 2 cups of picked codfish i large tablespoonful of i pint of milk butter 2 even tablespoonfuls of flour Yolk of one egg Salt and pepper to taste Cover the codfish with cold water and let it soak two hours; drain, cover with lukewarm water and stand it on the back part of the fire, where it will not get scalding hot, for one hour more. Then drain it free from all water. Put the butter in a frying-pan; when melted, add the flour and mix; FISH 49 then add the milk, stir constantly until it boils, add the fish, salt and pepper and stir until hot. Take from the fire, add the yolk of the egg and serve immediately with plain boiled potatoes. FISH a la REINE r pound of cold boiled fish Yolk of one egg i tablespoonful of butter 3 chopped mushrooms i tablespoonful of flour 1 tablespoonful of chopped pint of milk or cream parsley Salt and pepper to taste Pick the fish into small pieces. Put the butter in a frying- pan and, when melted, add the flour, mix, then add the milk and stir constantly until it boils. Add the fish, mush- rooms, salt and pepper and stand the frying-pan over the tea-kettle until the fish is thoroughly heated. Now beat the yolk of the egg lightly, add it and the parsley, mix all carefully together and serve at once in paper cases or shells. CUSK a la CRBME 1 pint of pieces of cold i bay leaf cooked fish i sprig of parsley Yolks of two eggs i small piece of onion i pint of milk i tablespoonful of butter i blade of mace 2 tablespoon fills of flour Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler, add to it the mace, onion, parsley and the bay leaf. Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the milk when boiling, cook two minutes, add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, take from the fire and strain. Add salt and pepper to taste. Put a layer of this sauce in the bottom of a baking- dish, then a layer of the fish, then another layer of the sauce, and so on until all is used, having the last layer sauce. Sprinkle the top lightly with bread crumbs and put in the oven until a nice brown. Serve in the same dish. This may also be served in individual dishes. 50 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK DEVILED HALIBUT This is made the same as deviled crabs, using one pound of cold boiled halibut instead of one dozen crabs. Serve in clam or scallop shells. SALMON CROQUETTES i pound or one can of cold Juice of half a lemon boiled salmon A little cayenne i teaspoonful of salt i cup of cream i tablespoonful of chopped i tablespoonful of butter parsley 3 tablespoonfuls of flour Chop the salmon fine and add to it the salt, parsley, lemon juice and cayenne. Mix thoroughly. Put the cream on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together until smooth and then stir them into the boiling cream. Stir and cook two minutes; season it lightly. Now stir this into the salmon; mix well and turn out on a dish to cool. When cool, form into cork-shaped croquettes; roll first in beaten egg, then bread crumbs and fry in boiling fat. Serve on a napkin, garnish with parsley. SHAD ROE CROQUETTES 2 shad roes 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice y2 pint of cream 1 large tablespoonful of butter Yolks of two eggs 2 large tablespoonfuls of flour ^ of a grated nutmeg 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley Salt, cayenne and black pepper Wash the shad roes, put them in a saucepan of boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, cover and simmer slowly fifteen minutes. Then take them out, remove the skin and mash them. Put the cream on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together, add them to the boiling cream and stir until it is very thick; add the yolks, take from the fire and add all the other ingredients, mix well and turn out on a dish FISH 51 to cool. When cold form into croquettes, either pyramids or rolls, dip first in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs and fry in boiling oil or fat. Serve with sauce Hollandaise. STEWED CARP Scale the fish, cut off the head, tail and fins. Mix one tablespoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper and a quarter of a teaspoonful of mace together, and rub the carp inside and out with it. Stand it in a cold place for one and a half hours. Then put it into a kettle, as for boiled fish, and cover it with boiling water; add one small onion, a sprig of parsley, one bay leaf and one teaspoon- ful of sweet marjoram; let this simmer ten minutes to every pound. When done, dish and serve with cream sauce. PICKLED SALMON A ten-pound salmon i small red pepper 2 quarts of good cider vinegar 12 pepper-corns 4 blades of mace 2 tablespoonfuls of whole 12 whole cloves mustard 1 small onion 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar 2 bay leaves y pint of boiling water Clean the salmon and wash it well in cold water. Put it into a kettle, cover it with boiling water, add a tablespoonful of salt and boil fifteen minutes to every pound. If you have to cut your fish, boil only ten minutes to every pound. When done, drain, wipe dry and stand in a cold place overnight. In the morning take off the skin and cut the flesh into nice convenient pieces. Put the vinegar and all the other ingredients into a porcelain kettle and bring them to a boil. Now drop the salmon carefully into this and let all boil up once. Rinse six or seven air-tight glass jars with hot water, carefully take the salmon from the kettle with a spoon, drop it rapidly into a jar, until it will 52 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK hold no more; now fill with the boiling liquor to the very brim, screw on the top and stand to one side. . Proceed in this manner until all the jars are filled. Then wipe them off"; see that they are all screwed up well. Stand in a cool, dark, dry place and it will keep good for a year. PICKLED HALIBUT Proceed in the same manner as for pickled salmon, using ten pounds of halibut in one piece, instead of the salmon. STURGEON PICKLED STURGEON 6 pounds of sturgeon 3 blades of mace iy2 quarts of good cider 1 tablespoonful of mustard vinegar seed 1 onion 12 pepper-corns 2 bay leaves 1 small red pepper 12 whole cloves 1 tablespoonful of loaf sugar Skin the fish and let it soak in cold water for half an hour. Then put it in a kettle, cover it with boiling water and parboil fifteen minutes to remove the oily taste. Now drain and stand it in a cold place until the next day, then finish same as pickled salmon. STEWED STURGEON Cut two pounds of the fish into pieces about two inches square, put them into a stewing-pan and cover with boil- ing water. Simmer gently for fifteen minutes to extract the strong oily flavor. Now drain off the water, add one tablespoonful of butter, then salt and pepper; cover the saucepan and stew until tender, about twenty minutes. Then add half a pint of milk. Moisten one tablespoonful of flour with a little cold water, mix until smooth, then add it to the sturgeon to thicken the gravy, boil up and serve hot. FISH 63 BROILED STURGEON Take two pounds of sturgeon steaks, wash well, skin and parboil fifteen minutes; drain and wipe dry; dredge with salt and pepper and broil over a clear, mild fire. Pour over them a tablespoonful of melted butter, serve on a hot dish and garnish with parsley and lemon cut into quarters, or they may be spread with maitre d'hdtel sauce. BAKED STURGEON Take a piece of sturgeon weighing six pounds, wash it well, skin it and parboil for twenty minutes. Put a quarter of a pound of bacon in the bottom of a baking-pan, place the sturgeon on top of it, add a little water to keep it from burning and bake one hour, basting every ten minutes. Serve with drawn butter. EELS STEWED EELS 6 nice eels . i bay leaf i pint of veal or fish stock i small onion i tablespoonful of butter i sprig of parsley 2 tablespoonfuls of flour Salt and pepper to taste Skin and clean the eels, cut off their heads and then cut them into pieces about two inches long; put them into a stewing-pan, cover with boiling water, add a tablespoonful of vinegar and simmer for ten minutes; then drain them. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add to it the flour, mix well and add all the other ingredients; stir constantly until it boils; then put the eels into this sauce and stew for half an hour. When done, dish the eels, strain the sauce over them and garnish with sippets fried in butter. 54 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK FRIED EELS Skin and clean the eels. Cut them into pieces about three inches long; put them in a stewing-pan, cover with boiling water, add one tablespoonful of vinegar to every six eels; simmer five minutes. Drain and dry them with a towel. Beat an egg lightly, add to it a tablespoonful of boiling water, season with salt and pepper, dip the eels first in this a;id then in bread crumbs and fry in boiling oil or fat until a nice brown. Serve with sauce Tartare. FROGS FRIED FROGS The hind legs of frogs are the only part used as food. They are usually sold skinned in the markets; but if you get them out of town, they must be skinned and thrown into boiling water for five minutes; take out and put them in cold water until cold, then wipe dry. Season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour and fry a nice brown in butter. Serve with fried parsley around them, or with cream sauce. STEWED FROGS i dozen frogs pint of stock i tablespoonful of butter Yolk of one egg i tablespoonful of flour Salt and pepper to taste Prepare the frogs same as for frying. Put the butter in a frying-pan; when brown add the flour, mix until smooth, add the stock and, when it boils, throw in the frogs and simmer ten minutes; add salt and pepper, take from the fire, add the beaten yolk and serve at once. FISH 55 LOBSTERS Never buy a dead lobster. Choose the smaller ones that are heavy for their size; the larger ones are coarse and tough. They should be perfectly fresh and very lively. The male lobster is preferred for eating and the female for sauces and soups. The female has a broader tail and less claws than the male. If possible, always boil the lobster at home; but in some localities, where it is a necessity to buy them boiled, see that the tail is stiff and elastic, so that when you bend it out, it springs back immediately; other- wise they were dead before boiling. Lobsters boiled when dead are watery and soft; they are very unwholesome, even to a dangerous degree. TO BOIL AND OPEN A LOBSTER Fill a kettle with warm water (not boiling), put in the lob- ster head downward, add a tablespoonful of salt, cover the kettle and stand it over a very quick fire. They suffer less by being put into warm than in boiling water. In the latter they are killed by heat, in warm water they are smothered. A medium-sized lobster should boil half an hour; a larger one three-quarters. Cooking them too long makes them tough, and the meat will stick to the shell. When done and cool, separate the tail from the body and twist off all the claws; shake out carefully the torn-alley (this is the liver of the lobster and may be known by its greenish color); also the coral. Then draw the body from the shell, remove the stomach (sometimes called the lady), which is found immediately under the head, and throw this away. Now split the body through the centre and pick the meat from the cells. Cut the under side of the tail shell, loosen the meat and take it out in one solid piece. Now split the meat of the tail open and you will uncover a little vein running its entire. 56 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK length, this remove. The vein is not always the same color; sometimes it is red, sometimes black and sometimes white; but in all cases it must be carefully taken out and thrown away. The stomach or lady, the vein and the spongy fingers between the body and shell, are the only parts not eatable. Crack the claws and take out the meat. To serve plain boiled lobster, arrange the meat thus taken out in the centre of a cold dish, garnishing with the claws, sprigs of fresh parsley, hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters and pickled beets cut into fancy shapes. Let each person season to suit one's self. LOBSTER FARCI 2 cups of boiled lobster Yolks of three hard-boiled eggs i tablespoonful of chopped parsley i tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs J^ pint of milk i even tablespoonful of flour % nutmeg, grated Salt and cayenne to taste. Cut the lobster into small pieces. Put the milk on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the milk when boiling; stir until smooth, take from the fire, add the bread crumbs, parsley, lobster, hard-boiled eggs mashed fine, salt and cayenne; mix all well together. Be careful when opening the lobster not to break the body or tail shells. Wash the shells and wipe them dry, and with a sharp knife or scissors cut off the under part of the shell. Now join the large ends of the two tail shells to the body, forming a boat. Put the farce into these shells, brush it over the top with beaten egg, sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs and place in a quick oven for fifteen minutes to brown. Serve hot in the shells garnished with parsley. FISH 67 LOBSTER CHOPS 2 cups of boiled lobster i cup of cream or milk 3 tablespoonfuls of flour i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of chopped ^ of a nutmeg parsley Yolks of two eggs Salt and cayenne to taste Add all the seasoning to the lobster. Put the cream or milk on to boil, rub the butter and flour together, and add to the cream or milk when boiling. Now add the beaten yolks and cook two minutes. Take from the fire and add the lobster. Mix well; turn out on a dish to cool. When cool, form into chops, roll first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs; put them in a frying-basket and fry in boiling oil or dripping until a nice brown. It will take about two minutes. Drain, and arrange them on a hot dish; put the end of a small claw in each chop to represent the mutton bone. Garnish with parsley, and serve with cream or Tartare sauce. DEVILED LOBSTER Deviled lobster is made the same as deviled crabs, using two cups of boiled lobster cut fine, instead of the dozen crabs. Serve in the lobster shells. This will require two small lobsters. SCALLOPED LOBSTER 6 pounds of lobster, live weight J^ pint of milk i large tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour i tablespoonful of chopped parsley l/z cup of stale bread crumbs Salt and cayenne to taste Put the milk on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the milk when boiling. Boil the lobsters, 58 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK open as directed and cut the meat into dice. Put a layer of the white sauce in the bottom of a baking-dish, then a layer of lobster, season with salt and cayenne, then a sprink- ling of parsley and bread crumbs, then another layer of white sauce, and so on until all is used, having the last layer sauce, sprinkled over with bread crumbs. Put in a quick oven fifteen minutes to brown. Serve in the dish. LOBSTER WITH CECIL SAUCE Boil a three-pound lobster and open as directed. Cut the meat into pieces about one inch square. Put a tablespoon- ful of butter into a frying-pan, and, when melted, add one tablespoonful of flour; mix until smooth, add one gill of cream, one gill of stock, and stir constantly until it boils; add the lobster, salt and pepper to taste. Heat thoroughly, take from the fire, add the beaten yolk of one egg and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. This may be served in paper cases or individual dishes. LOBSTER WITH CREAM SAUCE i lobster (3 pounds, live weight) 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour y2 pint of milk 5 mushrooms Salt and pepper to taste Boil and open the lobster as directed. Cut it into dice. Put the butter in a frying-pan, and, when melted, add the (lour; do not brown, but mix until smooth; add the milk, stir constantly until it boils; add the mushrooms chopped fine, salt, pepper and the lobster; stir until thoroughly heated. Serve in paper cases. CRABS Crabs, like lobsters, are sold alive, or boiled; they should be heavv for their size. FISH 59 TO BOIL CRABS Take one dozen heavy crabs and boil, the same as lobster, for three-quarters of an hour. When done and cold, twist off the claws, take off the upper shells and remove the spongy substance on the outside. See that the under part is free from sand. Arrange them nicely on a flat dish, gar- nish with parsley and serve with them oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, allowing each person to dress his own. DEVILED CRABS 12 nice, heavy crabs i tablespoonful of salt y? pint of cream, i tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour i tablespoonful of chopped \£ of a nutmeg, grated parsley Yolksoffour hard-boiled eggs Salt and cayenne to taste Put the crabs in warm water, add the salt and put the kettle over a brisk fire. Boil thirty minutes. Take up and drain; break off all the claws, separate the shells, remove the spongy fingers, and the stomach, which is found under the head. Pick out all the meat. Put the cream on to boil; rub the butter and flour together and add to the boiling cream; stir and cook for two minutes. Take from the fire and add the crab meat, the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs mashed fine, the parsley, the nutmeg, salt and cayenne. Clean the upper shells of the crabs, fill them with the mixture, brush over with beaten egg, cover with bread crumbs and put in a quick oven to brown; or better, put them in a frying-basket and plunge into boiling fat or oil until a nice brown. * SOFT SHELL CRABS The soft shell crab is nothing more than a hard shell crab after shedding its shell. In about three days the new shell begins to harden again, which is the cause of the always- short supply. 60 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Lift the shell and remove the spongy substance on both sides; then put your thumb nail under the point of the "apron" and pull it off. The " apron" is a small, loose shell, running to a point in the middle of the under shell. Now wipe the crabs dry; if they are at all sandy, wash them before removing anything. Do not blanch them, as it entirely destroys their fine flavor. Dip them, while alive, in beaten egg, and then in bread crumbs which have been well sea- soned with salt and cayenne. Fry in boiling oil or lard for ten minutes; when done, drain a moment on soft brown paper. Put sauce Tartare in the centre of a cold, flat dish; arrange the crabs around this, garnish with parsley and lemon cut into quarters, and serve. SOFT CRABS FRIED IN BUTTER Clean the crabs same as above. Dust them with salt, pep- per and flour. Put three tablespoonfuls of butter into a frying-pan, and when hot throw in the crabs; when brown on one side, turn and brown on the other. Serve as above. CRAW-FISH These are found in most of our brooks and rivers. They resemble the lobster, and are often called young lobsters. They are boiled and served the same as crabs, or used to garnish boiled fish. SHRIMPS Of all fish belonging to the lobster species, shrimps are the smallest. They are of two kinds, the Gulf shrimps or prawns being the largest. They are sold by the quart, already boiled, in some markets, but in the Northern cities the canned goods are convenient and very nice. Those put up by Dunbar & Co., and White, are the best. FISH 61 BOILED SHRIMPS Wash, and boil the same as crabs. When cold, twist the body and tail shells apart, carefully, so as not to break the meat, which remove in one piece. Serve same as crabs. SCALLOPS Scallops are always sold by measure, and only the muscular part of the fish is fit to use. TO FRY SCALLOPS Cover the scallops with boiling water and let them stand three minutes; drain, and dry them with a towel; season with salt and pepper, dip first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat or oil. STEWED SCALLOPS i pint of scallops i pint of milk i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour Salt and pepper to taste Wash the scallops in cold water, then drain them. Put the milk on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together and add to the milk when boiling; add the scallops, stir, and cook five minutes; add salt and pepper, and serve. MUSSELS or SOFT CLAMS Mussels are good during the winter months only. They should be of medium size, heavy, and perfectly fresh. Re- move the shells carefully; wash the mussels and soak in cold water for ten or fifteen minutes, then drain. FRIED MUSSELS Mussels may be fried and served like oysters. 62 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK STEWED MUSSELS Wash; and open the mussels until you have one quart. Then put them into a hot pan and stew for five minutes j add two tablespoonfuls of butter, dust them with a table- spoonful of flour, add six whole pepper-corns and stew gently for ten minutes. Then add a half cupful of cream and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Take from the fire and season with pepper and salt. CLAMS There are two varieties of clams, the small sand or little necks, and the mud clams or quahaugs. The first are very much the best, and are in season almost the whole year. FRIED CLAMS Clams may be fried the same as oysters. STEWED CLAMS Clams may be stewed the same as mussels, using fifty clams instead of one quart of mussels. TO ROAST CLAMS Wash them and put on a gridiron over the hot coals. When the shells open, remove the upper one, and serve in the under shell at once with a bit of butter and a little pepper on each. CLAM FRITTERS Clam fritters may be made the same as oyster fritters, using twenty-five clams instead of twenty-five oysters. PICKLED CLAMS Pickled clams are made precisely the same as pickled oysters, using fifty little-neck clams instead of fifty oysters. FISH 63 TERRAPIN Terrapins are always sold alive, and are in season from November to March. Diamond backs are the best, but are very expensive, costing from thirty to thirty-six dollars per dozen for cows. The males are small and of inferior flavor. The common red-legs or fresh-water terrapin are very good, and only cost about two or three dollars a dozen for the very best. STEWED TERRAPIN 2 terrapins y pound of butter l/t pint of thick cream i gill of sherry or Madeira 6 eggs ^ teaspoonful of mace Salt and cayenne to taste Put the terrapins alive into boiling water, and boil ten or fifteen minutes, or until you can pull off the outer skin and the toe nails. Now put them back in fresh boiling water, add a heaping teaspoonful of salt and boil slowly until the shells part easily and the flesh on the legs is quite tender. When done take out, remove the under shell, and let stand until cool enough to handle. Then take them out of the upper shells; carefully remove the sand bags, bladders, the thick heavy part of the intestines, and the gall sacks, which are found imbedded in one lobe of the liver, and throw them away. In removing the gall sack, be very careful not to break it, as it would spoil the whole terrapin. Break the terrapin into convenient-sized pieces, cut the small intes- tines into tiny pieces and add them to the meat; now add the liver broken up, also all the eggs found in the terrapins. Now put it into a stewing-pan with the juice or liquor it has given out while being cut. Roll the butter in flour, add it to the terrapin, and stand on a very moderate fire until heated. Boil the six eggs for fifteen minutes, take out the yolks, mash to a smooth paste with two tablespoon- 64 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK fuls of the wine, then add this, the cream and seasoning to the terrapin, let it boil up once, take from fire, add the wine and serve. It must never be boiled after adding the wine. More or less wine may be added according to taste. OYSTERS "Blessed if I don'/ think that ten a man's werry poor he rushes out of his lodgings and eats oysters in reg'lar desperation."—Pickwick Papers. ""- Blue Points are nicest for serving raw, as they are small and fat and are considered the finest in the market. The Cape Shores, Maurice River Coves, and the Western Shores are all very good. They are in season from September until May and, like other shell-fish, are not good when dead. Dr. Kitchener says, "Those who wish to enjoy this delicious restorative in its utmost perfection, must eat it the moment it is opened, with its own gravy in the under shell; if not eaten while absolutely alive, its flavor and spirit are lost." SERVED ON THE HALF SHELL Allow six oysters to each person. Wash the shells well; open them carefully; take off the upper shell, detach the oyster from the under shell, but leave it there. Put six on an oyster or round plate, and serve with a piece of lemon in the centre of the dish. SERVED IN A BLOCK OF ICE Take a perfectly clear block of ice, weighing about ten pounds. Heat a flat-iron, and with it mark out the space to be melted, leaving a wall about an inch and a half thick. Reheat the iron and with it melt the ice in the centre of the block; heat again, and continue the opera- FISH 66 tion until you have a perfectly square cavity, leaving the bottom and sides about one and a half inches thick. Empty all the water carefully out, fill the cavity with freshly-opened oysters. Fold a napkin and place it on a large flat dish; stand the ice on this, and garnish the dish with smilax and nasturtium flowers ; here and there, among the smilax, lemon quarters may be placed. In large cities, ice moulds of different varieties are frozen to order and furnished by caterers. STEWED OYSTERS No. I 50 oysters i large tablespoon ful of flour i pint of milk i blade of mace i large tablespoonful of 6 whole allspice butter Salt and pepper to taste Drain the oysters, and put the liquor on to boil; as soon as it boils, skim all the white scum from the surface; now add the milk, put back on the fire; rub the butter and flour together and add to the milk as soon as it boils; stir until it begins to thicken, add the mace and allspice. Wash the oysters by pouring cold water over them in the colander, add these to the other ingredients and stir constantly until the oysters curl; then add the salt and pepper. Do not allow them to boil, or the sauce will curdle, but be sure they are thoroughly heated, as nothing is more objection- able than an uncooked oyster in a hot sauce. STEWED OYSTERS No. 2 (Mrs. Rogers, of Philadelphia) 50 oysters i4 cup of bread crumbs i pint of cream i pint of water i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste Drain the oysters in a colander, and wash by pouring cold water over them. Put the bread crumbs and water in a stewing-pan, and cook five minutes; then add the oysters, and, when boiling hot, add the butter, cream, salt and pepper. Let the whole boil up once, and serve. 66 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK FRICASSEE OF OYSTERS 25 oysters 1 large tablespoonful of butter 1 large tablespoonful of flour Y pint of milk Yolks of two eggs 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley Salt and cayenne to taste Boil the oysters in their own liquor; drain. Put the butter in a frying-pan, and, when melted, add the flour; mix until smooth; now add the milk, stir until it boils; add the oysters and a half-cup of the liquor, salt and cayenne, and stir again until it boils. Take from the fire, add the yolks of the eggs lightly beaten, and the parsley; serve at once. CREAMED OYSTERS 25 oysters 1 tablespoonful of corn-starch 1 pint of cream or flour 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 blade of mace Salt and pepper to taste Put the oysters on to boil in their own liquor; as soon as they come to a boil, drain through a colander. Put the cream on to boil in a farina boiler. Rub the butter and corn-starch, or flour, together, and add to the cream when boiling; add the mace, and stir constantly until it thickens; then add the oysters, salt and pepper; stir until thoroughly heated, and serve. OYSTERS a la BECHAMEL 25 oysters 2 ounces of butter y2 pint of cream 1 tablespoonful of flour Salt and pepper to taste. Boil the oysters about two minutes in their own liquor, drain, and chop them fine. Put the butter in a porcelain or granite saucepan, and, when melted, add the flour; stir and mix over the fire until smooth, then add the cream; FISH 67 stir constantly until it boils; add the oysters; let it boil up once; add salt and pepper, and serve. A half-dozen chopped mushrooms may be added, if liked. PANNED OYSTERS Put twenty-five oysters in a colander and wash by pouring cold water over them; allow them to drain ten minutes; do not save either the water or liquor. Put an iron frying- pan over a quick fire to heat; as soon as it is hissing hot, throw in the oysters and shake and stir until they boil; then add salt, pepper, and a piece of butter the size of a large walnut. Serve in a hot dish immediately. These are very nice, retaining all the natural flavor of the oyster. BROILED OYSTERS (on the gridiron) Use nice fat oysters. Lay them out on a board, dry with a towel, season them with salt and cayenne on both sides. Have your gridiron hot; test it by dropping on a drop of water; if it hisses, it is ready. Stand the dish in a warm place; put in it apiece of butter. Now cover the grid- iron with the oysters; as soon as browned on one side, turn and brown on the other. Put them in the heated dish, and serve at once. BROILED OYSTERS WITH BROWN SAUCE Drain the oysters in a colander. Take one pint of liquor to every twenty-five oysters; put the liquor on to boil; skim all scum from the surface. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan, and stir until a nice brown; then add two tablespoon fuls of flour, mix well, and brown; then add the oyster liquor, and stir constantly until it boils. Season with salt and pepper, and stand it over hot water until wanted. Broil oysters on gridiron, as directed, throw them into this sauce, and serve on squares of buttered toast. 68 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK NEW YORK BROILED OYSTERS Take twenty-five large oysters, drain them, and place on a a baking board, season with salt and cayenne, and dip in bread crumbs. Grease an oyster broiler, place the oysters in side by side, close the broiler, and broil them over a clear fire until brown on one side, then turn and brown the other. Serve immediately on squares of buttered toast, with a few drops of lemon and a bit of butter on each oyster. PHILADELPHIA BROILED OYSTERS Take twenty-five large oysters, drain them, and place on a baking board. Season them with salt and cayenne. Put one cup of the liquor on to boil; as soon as it boils, skim it, and add one tablespoonful of butter, with salt and cayenne to taste. Grease an oyster broiler, place the oysters in side by side, close the broiler, and broil them over a clear fire until brown on one side, then turn and brown the other. Now throw them into the hot liquor. Serve imme- diately with a plate of buttered toast. BAKED OYSTERS Take nice large oysters in the shell. Wash and scrub the shells until free from sand. Now place them in a bak- ing-pan, put in a very quick oven (4000 Fahr.), and bake until they open their shells. Now remove the upper shells, put a small bit of butter on each oyster, sprinkle lightly with salt and cayenne, and serve in the under shells. FRIED OYSTERS Philadelphia Style Select for frying the finest oysters you can get. Drain them in a colander, and dry one by one on an old napkin or soft linen. Do not lift them with a fork, but carefully with the fingers. Season on both sides with salt and FISH 69 cayenne. Beat up an egg in a saucer, add one tablespoon- ful of boiling water, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Put some nice stale bread crumbs out on your baking board, and season with salt and cayenne. Dip the oysters one by one first in the bread crumbs, then in the egg, and then place again in the crumbs, covering every part most carefully, and pressing it lightly with the hand. Put a deep frying- pan over the fire, with enough oil or lard to immerse the oysters. Be sure the oil or lard is boiling hot (3650 Fahr.); if you have no thermometer, drop in a crumb of bread, if it browns quickly it is hot enough. Put in six of your oysters, watch them carefully, as soon as they are of a golden brown, take them out with a skimmer, and drain on a soft piece of brown paper, and serve at once on a hot dish. Some kind of pickles should always be served with them, in a separate dish. Oysters are very much better fried in oil than lard or butter. They should never be fried until you are quite ready to eat them, as they are not good when kept warm, or warmed over. If you have a large quantity to fry, they may be dipped an hour or two before serving .time, and spread on a clean cloth in a cool place. Always use bread crumbs in preference to cracker crumbs. FRIED OYSTERS New York and Southern Style Drain the oysters and season as above, then dip them in very fine cracker crumbs or flour. Put three or four table- spoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan ; and, when hot, put in enough oysters to cover the bottom of the pan; when brown on one side, turn and brown the other. See that they are crisp, but not burned. Serve at once on a hot dish. SCALLOPED OYSTERS In a baking-dish put a layer of oysters, and cover them with a half-inch layer of stale bread crumbs; dot this over 70 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK with bits of butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper; then add another layer of oysters, and so continue until the dish is full, always having the last layer crumbs, dotted with bife of butter. Moisten the whole with a half cupful of the oyster liquor and the same of milk. Bake in a rather quick oven for twenty minutes, or until a nice brown. Serve in the baking-dish. At my lectures I have often prepared these in the same manner, using the oyster shells instead of the one large baking-pan, allowing three oysters to each shell, and I think the flavor is thereby greatly improved. OYSTERS AND MACARONI Boil four ounces of macaroni, in plenty of boiling water, twenty minutes. Then cut it into pieces about one inch long. Put a layer of this in the bottom of a baking-dish, then a layer of oysters, sprinkle with salt and pepper and a few bits of butter, then another layer of maca- roni, and so on until all is used, having the top layer macaroni; sprinkle the top lightly with grated cheese, and bake in \ moderate oven twenty minutes. Serve in the dish in which they were baked. OYSTER SAUTE 25 nice fat oysters y^ pound of Irish breakfast bacon Pepper and flour Drain the oysters and dry them with a towel, then sprinkle with pepper, and roll them in flour. Put the bacon, cut into thin slices, in a frying-pan, and let all the fat try out of it; then remove the bacon and cover the bottom of the pan with oysters; as soon as crisp and brown on one side, turn and brown on the other. Serve on squares of buttered toast. FISH 71 These are delicious. If no Irish bacon is at hand, use the ordinary smoked pork. OYSTER LOAF Cut a long loaf of bread into slices about two inches thick; a baker's long five-cent loaf will make six. Now trim off the crust, and make each piece square. Dig the crumb out of the centre of each piece, leaving sides and bottom like a box; that is, make a square box out of each slice of bread. Brush each box over with melted butter and put in a quick oven until a light brown. Fill with creamed oysters and serve. DEVILED OYSTERS 25 nice fat oysters 1 tablespoonful of chopped J^ pint of cream parsley 1 tablespoonful of butter Yolks of two eggs 2 tablespoonfuls of flour Salt and cayenne to taste Drain the oysters and chop them middling fine and drain again. Put the cream on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the cream when boiling; as soon as it thickens, take it from the fire and add all the other ingre- dients. Beat the yolks before adding them. Have the deep shells of the oysters washed perfectly clean, fill them with this mixture, sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs, put them in a baking-pan and brown in a quick oven for five minutes. Serve in the shells; garnish with parsley. They may be cooked in clam or silver scallop shells, but are much better done in their own shells, as there is a flavor imparted by the heated shell which greatly enriches the mixture. A word of caution: avoid long cooking, as it makes them dry. If your oven will not brown them in five or six minutes, and you have no salamander, heat your fire shovel red hot. Take the shells from the oven, hold the shovel over them until they brown. ■ 72 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK These may be prepared several hours before they are wanted, and placed in the oven and browned at serving time. OYSTER CROQUETTES 25 oysters i tablespoonful of chopped i gill of oyster liquor parsley i gill of cream Yolks of 2 eggs i tablespoonful of butter ^ of a nutmeg, grated 2 tablespoon fuls of flour Salt and cayenne to taste Put the oysters on to boil in their own liquor; boil and stir constantly for five minutes. Take from the fire and drain. Chop the oysters very fine. Now put into a sauce- pan one gill of this liquor and the cream. Rub together the butter and flour; add this and the oysters to the boiling liquor and cream, and stir until it boils and thickens; now add the yolks of the eggs; stir over the fire one minute; take it off, add parsley, salt, cayenne and nutmeg, mix well, and turn out to cool. When cold, form into cylinders, roll first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling oil or fat. OYSTER FRITTERS 25 oysters 2 dashes of black pepper 2 eggs 2 cupfuls of flour i cup of milk y2 teaspoonful of baking i teaspoonful of salt powder Drain the oysters and strip them with your fingers to remove any pieces of shell that may have been left on them. Chop them fine. Beat the eggs altogether until very- light, add to them the milk, then the flour and salt, and beat until perfectly smooth; add the oysters (free from all liquor), and the baking powder; mix well, and drop by spoonfuls in boiling oil or fat; when browned on one side, turn and brown on the other. When done, take out with a skimmer, as it makes them very heavy to pierce them with a fork. FISH 73 KROMESKIES OF OYSTERS 25 oysters 1 cup of the white meat of 3 chopped mushrooms chicken i- tablespoonful of butter pound of bacon Yolks of two eggs cup of cream i tablespoonful of parsley 2 tablespoonfuls of flour i2 drops of onion juice Salt and pepper to taste Put the oysters on to boil in their own liquor, drain, and save a half cupful of the liquor. Chop the oysters fine, add them to the half-cup of liquor and boil one min- ute; then add the cream, the mushrooms, and the chicken chopped fine. Rub the butter and flour together and stir in this boiling mixture; add the parsley, onion juice, salt and pepper, then the yolks of the eggs; mix well and turn out to cool. When cold, roll into cylinders about an inch and a half long and about three-quarters of an inch in diameter. Cut the bacon into slices as thin as shavings, roll each cylinder in a slice of bacon, dip in French fritter batter, and fry in boiling fat. Serve immediately, garnished with parsley. PICKLED OYSTERS Boil fifty oysters in their own liquor until they begin to curl; drain and save the liquor. Take a half pint of white- wine vinegar, and a half pint of the oyster liquor; put them on to boil with two blades of mace, one dozen whole cloves, same of whole allspice, the same of whole pepper-corns and a dash of cayenne; as soon as they come to a good, hard boil, have the oysters in a glass jar, pour over them the boiling liquor, cover them closely and stand away to cool. They will keep some time, and should be served cold. They will be ready for use the second day. 74 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK OYSTER FILLING FOR POULTRY A sixteen-pound turkey will require :— 25 oysters 1 quart of stale bread crumbs 1 tablespoonful of chopped 1 tablespoonful of butter parsley 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of sweet Pepper to taste marjoram Drain the oysters, wash them in cold water and drain again. Mix the crumbs, salt, pepper, parsley and sweet marjoram together; add the butter, melted, and then the oysters, and it is ready for use. ADDITIONAL RECIPES PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK ADDITIONAL RECIPES PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK MEATS As stated in the remarks on soup, the principal constituents of animal food are fibrin, fat, gelatin, albumen, and osma- zome. It also contains a large amount of water. Liebig assumes that 74 parts are water and 26 parts dry matter. "The ratio of water in meats, fowl and fish is quite uniform, ranging from 70 to 80 per cent., but the propor- tion of other constituents, muscular fibre, fat and bone, exhibits the widest possible diversity. In some animals, more especially wild ones, as deer, there may be hardly a trace of oily matter, while swine are often fed until the animal becomes one morbid and unwieldy mass of fat. The pure muscle of ordinary meat, with all its visible fat removed, is assumed by Liebig to still contain about 8 per cent, of fat. In beef and mutton such as is met with in our markets, from a third to a fourth of the whole dead weight generally consists of fat." (Johnston.) In cooking meats our object is to retain the nourish- ment and flavor, consequently we must follow directions exactly the opposite from those for making soup. The flavor and juiciness of meat depend as much upon the method of cooking as upon the quality of the meat. If cold water and a moderate heat will soften the fibre and draw out the juices, boiling water or a strong, dry heat will retain them, 80 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK by coagulating the albumen on the surface and to a certain depth within, thus enclosing the meat in a water-proof case or crust, which neither permits the juices to flow out nor the water to penetrate within; in this way only is meat juicy and well flavored. The more albumen the flesh contains the more tender it is, consequently veal, lamb, and spring chickens are more tender than beef, mutton, and fowl. The coagulation of the albumen throughout the meat gives it the white, dry appearance. The tender meats also have less flavor, as they contain very little or no osmazome. I emphatically say do not wash meats, as in this way they are robbed of a large proportion of their nutriment. The steaks or roasts freshly cut from the beef are certainly free from all objectionable matter; the outer edges which the butcher has handled may be well wiped with a damp cloth and they are ready for use. Heat is generally applied to meat in four ways: boiling, baking, roasting, and braising. The first includes all stews and boiled meats; the second our ordinary baked beef, commonly called roasted in the oven; the third, roasting before or under the fire, and broiling. Roasting means exposing one side of the meat to the fire and the other to the air, which is decidedly the best way of cooking large joints. But in these days of small kitchens and ranges, so few persons have space or accommodations for using a spit or even a tin kitchen (although the latter may be used be- fore any ordinary range) that almost every family " roasts" in the oven; and this is by no means an inferior way if the oven be very hot at first, in order to form a crust upon the outer side, then slightly cooled, to prevent the crust from burning, and finished at a moderate heat. In this way the meat may be well done, and if properly basted will MEATS 81 retain its juices. The fourth way is braising, which is neither boiling nor baking, but has the advantages of both. The meat is placed in a braising-pan (a pan with a close cover), surrounded by water, and baked in a hot oven. This is a very nice and economical way of cooking meat. "Reed's Roaster" is the best and most convenient pan that has come under my notice, being a close box with a door at the end; thus enabling you to look at the meal without removing it from the oven, which is usually neces- sary with other pans. Meat loses, while cooking, a certain amount of its weight. It is estimated that moderately fat beef and mutton will lose about as follows :— ROASTING BAKING BOILING 4 lbs. of beef will lose I lb. 5 oz. I lb. 3 oz. I lb. 4 " "mutton" i " 6" i " 4" i4 oz. The foregoing table will show that boiling or stewing is the cheaper method of cooking meats, as the meat loses less of its weight, and you use the so-called inferior pieces. These pieces are rejected, as Mrs. Turner fitly says: "not because they are actually much inferior, but largely for the reason which induced the generation before ours to throw away shad-roe, sweet-breads, and other things now con- sidered luxuries." When we consider that a bullock weighing 800 pounds contains only i20 pounds of what are sought after in markets as the best pieces for roasts and steaks, and that only 8 to i2 pounds in the whole 800 are tenderloins, and when all dealers admit that the comparative cost of the tra- ditional best pieces is out of all proportion to their com- ijarative value as nutrition, we may well be tempted to tamper with our tradition and experiment a little with portions of the remaining 680 pounds ; and from these 680 pounds are 82 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK • made all our nicest dishes, such as ragouts, brown stews, pot-roasts, rolls, and in fact all the French made dishes. In the recipes for stews and their companions, you will notice that we never stew in plain water and thicken after- wards, but make a gravy first, either from salt pork fat, dripping, suet, or butter {never lard), and in this way the meat is more savory and rich. By changing the spices and flavorings, by browning, or not, the sauces, an endless number of dishes may be made from the few recipes given. BEEF The meat should be of fine grain, a clear red color, with a yellowish-white, firm fat. It is divided into fore and hind quarters. The hind quarter is divided into leg, loin and flank. The sirloin runs from the rib to the hip or pin bone; the rump extends from this to the socket bone. The skirt steak is in the flank. The fore quarter is divided into ribs, shoulder, plate, brisket, chuck ribs, and shin. The standing ribs are six in number. The seventh and eighth ribs are called the first chuck, the ninth and tenth the second chuck, the eleventh and twelfth the third chuck, the thirteenth the fourth chuck. The bolar piece is the fleshy part of the shoulder. The plate is the top of the ribs, then comes the brisket. ROAST BEEF The best pieces for roasting are the ribs, sirloin, and pin bone. If you use a tin kitchen, run the spit through the meat, dredge it with pepper, and place it at first very near a hot fire. As soon as brown on the surface, draw a little MEATS 83 from the fire, that it may not burn; put a half pint of water and one teaspoonful of salt in the bottom of the kitchen, and turn the meat almost constantly, basting every ten minutes until done. Roast fifteen minutes to every pound, if you like your meat rare; if well done, twenty minutes. Do not add any more water after the first evaporates, as there will be sufficient fat falling into the kitchen to baste with. For the gravy, allow two tablespoonfuls of dripping to remain in the bottom of the kitchen; add to it one tablespoonful of flour; mix until smooth; add a half pint of boiling water or stock; stir continually until it boils; then add salt and pepper to taste, and serve in a sauce-boat. BAKED BEEF OR ROASTED IN THE OVEN Place the joint in the bottom of a baking-pan, dredge it lightly with pepper; add one teaspoonful of salt to one cupful of water, and pour it in the pan. Place it in a very hot oven; baste every ten minutes, lest it should burn. Turn it two or three times, and bake fifteen minutes to every pound. Serve with gravy made the same as for roast beef. BAKED RIB OF BEEF WITH YORKSHIRE PUDDING Remove the ribs, then roll the meat, and tie it with twine (the butcher will do this if you ask him). Place it in a baking-pan, dredge it lightly with pepper; add one tea- spoonful of salt to one cupful of water, and pour it in the pan. Then place the pan in a very hot oven and baste often, lest it should burn. Bake fifteen minutes to every pound. One hour before the meat is done, make the pudding. Pour nearly all the dripping from under the meat into another baking-pan, and turn into it the pudding Bake one hour. 84 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK THE PUDDING 3 eggs 6 large tablespoonfuls of flour i pint of milk J4 teaspoonful of salt 2 dashes of pepper Beat the eggs, whites and yolks together, until light; add to them the milk. Put the flour into a bowl, moisten it gradually with the eggs and milk; beat until smooth; strain through a fine sieve; add the salt and pepper, and bake. Cut into squares, and serve around the meat. A POT ROAST Trim off the rough parts of a nice brisket of beef, place it in a kettle over a good fire; brown on one side, then turn and brown on the other; then add one pint of boiling water, cover and cook slowly fifteen minutes to every pound. Add salt when the meat is half done. After the water evaporates add no more, as there should be fat enough to finish cooking the meat. Serve with Brown Sauce No. i, made from the fat in the pot. FILLET OF BEEF WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE The fillet is the tenderloin of beef. They weigh from three to eight pounds, and cost from sixty cents to one dollar per pound. Having no bone, this makes an economical as well as a very handsome dish. From a caterer, a small fillet costs from seven to eight dollars; if prepared at home, about half that price. To prepare, first remove with a sharp knife every shred of the muscular covering on the one side of the fillet. Now cut larding pork (very fat salt pork) into tiny strips, and throw them into a bowl of ice water to harden. Place one strip into the slot end of the larding needle as far as it will go, thrust the needle into the meat, taking a stitcb MEATS 85 across the top about one inch deep, push the needle through, place the ringer lightly on the strip of pork and draw the needle out, leaving the pork exposed about quarter of an inch at each end of the stitch. Continue until you have a row of these lardoons (the name given to these small strips) down the centre of the fillet about one inch apart. Into the bottom of a baking-pan put one small onion sliced, one small carrot sliced, a stalk of celery cut into small pieces, four cloves, and two bay leaves; put the fillet in the pan on top of these, dredge with pepper, and spread thickly with butter; add a teaspoonful of salt to a quarter of a cup of boiling water, and pour into the bottom of the pan. Bake in a quick oven (4000 Fahr.) for thirty minutes, bast- ing four or five times. The shape is such that it takes thirty minutes to bake a fillet, no matter what its weight. When done, take out and place on a hot dish. Add to the pan one tablespoonful of butter, and brown, then add two tablespoonfuls of flour; mix well; add one pint of stock or boiling water, stir continually until it boils, strain into a frying-pan, and add one pint of fresh stewed or canned mushrooms. Cook five minutes, take from the fire, add a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, one tablespoonful of sherry, salt and pepper to taste; pour it around the fillet and serve. BEEF 'a la MODE Take from a round of beef a slice about four inches thick, weighing seven or eight pounds. Remove the bone. Bind the beef into good shape with a piece of new muslin or broad tape, sewing the ends together tightly. Cut deep gashes into the meat one inch apart, being careful not to cut all the way through. Mix a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of black pepper, same of cinnamon, quarter of 86 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK a teaspoonful of mace, the same of cloves, and rub them into the meat on both sides, sprinkling a little in each gash. Cut fat salt pork into pieces the size of the gashes, put one piece in each gash. Add to one cup of stale grated bread a small onion and a tablespoonful of parsley chopped very fine, moisten with vinegar. Now work a small portion of this forcemeat into the slots, by the side of the pork. Mix three tablespoonfuls of vinegar with three of olive oil, and moisten well both sides of the meat; let stand over night if possible. Then put two large tablespoonfuls of butter into a braising or baking-pan ; and when melted and hot, add one onion, one carrot and one turnip cut into slices; stir the whole until lightly browned, then add two table- spoonfuls of vinegar, two bay leaves, a sprig of parsley, and two quarts of boiling water or stock; let the whole boil two minutes, then put in the beef, and one knuckle of veal well cracked. If in a braising-pan put on the cover; if in a baking-pan, turn over it another pan to keep in the steam. Put in the oven and bake slowly for six hours; oven about 2200 Fahr. When done, take out the meat and stand away to cool. Strain the liquor, add salt and pepper to taste, and turn into a square pan to harden. This will make a jelly of a bright amber color. Serve the meat cold with squares of this amber jelly around it. Gar- nish with small button radishes, cut into tulips, and parsley. Serve also in a separate dish sauce Tartare. In winter this will keep at least two weeks, and equally as long in summer, if kept in a cold, dry refrigerator. BROILED STEAK Trim the steak free from all suet. Put the meat plate to warm. Grease the broiler and put it to heat. See that the fire is clear and free from gas. Now put the steak in the hot ME A TS 87 broiler and place it over the fire; turn constantly. It will take eight minutes to broil if the steak is three-quarters of an inch thick. When done, place it on the hot plate, dredge it with salt and pepper; turn it and season the other side. Serve immediately. Never attempt to broil a tough steak; if you should be so unfortunate as to buy one, use it for some made dish, as hacking or hammering bruises the meat, and allows all the juices to escape. BROILED FILLET Cut a fillet of beef into slices about an inch thick; moisten them with melted butter or olive oil, and let stand for half an hour; then place them on a broiler and broil over a quick fire five minutes, turning them two or three times. Place them on a hot plate, season with salt and pepper, pour tomato sauce around, and serve. BEEFSTEAK SMOTHERED IN ONIONS Cut one dozen onions into slices; fry a quarter-pound of salt pork or bacon until all the fat is tried out, then take out the crackling; into this hot fat put the onions; fry and stir for twenty minutes over a good fire; then add a tea- spoonful of salt, a dash of black pepper, and one cup of boiling water; place over a more moderate fire to simmer for half an hour. By this time the water should have entirely evaporated, and the onions should be a nice brown. Have ready a broiled steak, place it in the pan with the onions, cover it over the top with some of them, and stand in the oven for five minutes; then place the steak on a hot dish, heap the onions over and around, and serve. 88 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK HAMBURG STEAKS One pound of steak from the upper side of the round; chop it very fine, add to it a tablespoonful of onion juice, half a teaspoon ful of salt, and two dashes of black pepper; mix well together. Moisten the hands in cold water, take two tablespoonfuls of this mixture and form with the hands into small round cakes or steaks. This quantity will make eight Hamburg steaks. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a frying-pan; when hot, put in the steaks, fry brown on one side, turn and brown the other. Now place them on a hot dish, add a tablespoonful of flour to the butter remaining in the pan, mix until smooth, add a half- pint of boiling water, stir constantly until it boils; add salt and pepper to taste, and pour it over the steaks. Or they may be broiled same as a plain steak, seasoned with salt and pepper, and spread with butter. TO PAN A BEEFSTEAK When there are no conveniences for broiling (and we never fry a steak), heat an iron pan very hot, put in the steak, turn it from side to side over a very hot fire for about fif- teen minutes. The steak should be about three-quarters of an inch in thickness. Serve on a hot plate, seasoned the same as broiled steak. ROLLED BEEFSTEAK r skirt steak or \y2 pounds of round steak i cup of stale bread crumbs i tablespoonful of chopped parsley i tablespoonful of melted butter i teaspoonful of sweet marjoram y2 teaspoonful of salt 2 dashes of black pepper Mix the bread crumbs, parsley, sweet marjoram, salt and ME A TS 89 pepper together, and moisten with the melted butter. Spread this over the steak, which roll tightly, and tie with twine. Put it in a baking-pan with any pieces of suet that you may have trimmed off; add a half-cup of water, and bake in a quick oven for three-quarters of an hour. Serve with Brown Sauce, No. 2. BEEF OLIVES 1 z/z pounds of round steak 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 cup of stale bread y2 teaspoonful of sweet mar- crumbs joram 1 tablespoonful of chopped 5 mushrooms, chopped fine parsley J^ teaspoonful of salt 2 dashes of pepper Have the steak cut very thin; trim off all the fat and skin from the edges, and cut the steak into strips about three inches wide and five inches long; mix the bread crumbs, parsley, sweet marjoram, mushrooms, salt and pepper; moisten with the butter melted. Put a layer of this forcemeat on the top of each strip, roll them up tightly, and tie with twine; dredge each roll thickly with flour. Cut a quarter pound of salt pork into slices, put it into a frying-pan and try out all the fat; then put in the olives (as these rolls are now called) and brown them on all sides; then put them into a saucepan, add to the fat remaining in the pan two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix until smooth; add one pint of stock or boiling water, and stir constantly until it boils, then pour into the saucepan over the olives; add a slice of onion, a sprig of parsley, and a bay leaf. Cover and simmer gently two hours. After they have been simmering one hour, add half a teaspoon- ful of salt. When done, place the olives on a hot dish, strain the sauce over and around them, and serve. This is a very good and economical dish, and may be made without the mushrooms. 90 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK BCEUF en ROULEAU i large rump steak y2 cup of cold cooked ham or tongue i egg A little cayenne i tablespoonful of chopped parsley Chop the ham or tongue very fine; mix with the cayenne. parsley, and egg slightly beaten. Have the steak cut very thin, and spread over it the ham mixture; roll up tightly and tie with twine. Dredge thickly with flour. Put a quarter-pound of bacon into a frying-pan, and try out all the fat; remove the bacon, and brown the roll in the fat. Now put the roll into a small saucepan. Add to the fat remaining in the frying-pan two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix, add one pint of stock or boiling water, and stir con- tinually until it boils. Pour this over the rouleau, add one bay leaf, half an onion, a sprig of parsley, and a table- spoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Cover the saucepan- and simmer for two hours. While this is stewing, prepare some ham balls for a garnish. HAM BALLS y2 cup of cooked ham or tongue i gill of milk 2 tablespoonfuls of dried bread crumbs Yolk of one egg i tablespoonful of chopped parsley A dash of cayenne Put the milk on to boil, add to it the crumbs; stir over the fire until it thickens; add the ham finely chopped, parsley, cayenne, and the beaten yolk; mix well, and turn out to cool. When cool, form into balls about the size of a hickory-nut; roll first in egg and then in bread crumbs, and put aside until wanted. When the rouleau is done, cut the string and remove it. Put the rouleau in the centre MEATS 91 of a hot dish, strain the sauce over it. Plunge the balls into boiling fat for about two minutes to brown, place them around the rouleau, and serve. This makes a good and sightly dish, and is very inex- pensive. GRENADINES OF BEEF Have a rump steak cut one inch thick, weighing about two pounds. With a sharp knife cut the tender portion into pieces the shape of a French chop. Lard thickly on one side. (See directions for larding.) Put two or three slices of fat pork into a frying-pan (the tender part of the larding pork will answer nicely for this), and try out all the fat, then put in the chops, brown quickly on one side, turn and brown the other. Place them on a heated dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add a tablespoonful of flour to the fat remaining in the pan, stir until a nice brown, then add a half-pint of stock or water; stir constantly until it boils; add a half-teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of Worcester- shire sauce, and pour around the grenadines, and serve. The tougher part of the steak may be made into Ham- burg steaks for another meal. CANNELON i pound of uncooked beef, chopped fine Yolk of one egg i tablespoonful of chopped parsley i tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuIs of bread crumbs i teaspoonful of lemon juice i teaspoonful of salt 3 dashes of black pepper Mix all tbe ingredients together, then form into a roll about six inches long and four inches in diameter; wrap 92 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK in greased paper, put in a baking-pan, and bake in a quick oven thirty minutes, basting twice with melted butler. When done, remove the paper, place the roll in the centre of a hot dish, and serve with mushroom or brown sauce poured over it. BOILING OR STEWING For boiling, stewing, or braising, inferior pieces of meat may be used and made into good, wholesome and sightly dishes. Points to be remembered :— I. Be sure that the water is boiling when you pour it over the meat. II. Stand it on the back part of the fire, where it will just simmer, never boil, allowing forty-five minutes for every pound of meat. III. Add the salt when the meat is half done. RAGOUT OF BEEF a la MODE Cut cold beef a la mode into pieces about one inch square. To every pint of these squares allow i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour i tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce i tablespoonful of mushroom catsup y pint of stock i tablespoonful of sherry (if you use wine) Salt and pepper to taste Put the butter in a small stewpan, and stir until a dark brown; then add the flour, mix well, add the stock, and stir continually until it boils; then add the meat, sauce, catsup, salt and pepper, and let it simmer gently for fifteen minutes. Take from the fire, add the wine; dish, garnish with boulettes of potatoes, and serve. MEATS 93 STUFFED STEW OF BEEF 3 pounds from upper side ]4 teaspoon ful of allspice of round i teaspoonful of salt y{ teaspoonful of black pepper^ teaspoonful of cloves teaspoonful of nutmeg i cup of bread crumbs i tablespoonful of chopped i tablespoonful of butter parsley y£ pound of larding pork Make gashes in the meat about two inches long, and almost through it. Mix the spices, salt and pepper. Mix the bread crumbs, parsley and the butter (melted) together. Rub the meat on both sides with the spices, and put the remainder in the gashes. Fill the gashes nearly full with the bread crumbs. Cut the larding-pork into pieces the size of the gashes, and work them down with the crumbs. Now tie the meat around with a piece of twine to hold in the filling. Put it in a saucepan, and cover with a gravy made as follows :— GRAVY i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour i tablespoonful of mushroom catsup i tablespoonful of tomato catsup i tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce i onion i bay leaf i quart of stock Put the butter in a frying-pan and let it brown; add the flour, and mix well; then add the stock, stir until it boils; then add the catsups, the Worcestershire sauce, onion, bay leaf, and pour it over the meat; simmer gently three hours. Then take the meat out, put it in a baking-pan, pour over two tablespoonfuls of glaze or^ravy, and put it in the oven for ten or fifteen minutes to brown. Then dish, and strain the gravy over and around it. 94 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK SPICED BEEF 4 pounds of beef from the ^ teaspoon ful of cloves round or shoulder i teaspoonful of allspice l/z teaspoonful of salt % teaspoonful of mace A dash of cayenne Juice of one lemon 2 bay leaves i onion 4 tablespoonfuls of olive oil or butter Mix the spices, salt and pepper together, and rub them well into the meat on all sides. Mix the lemon-juice and oil or butter together, and (if you use it) a gill of sherry. Pour this over the meat and stand it away in an earthen vessel for twenty-four hours. Then put it, with all its juices, into a stewing-pan, cover with boiling water, add the onion and bay leaves, and simmer two hours. When done, take out the meat, and reduce the liquor by boiling to one pint. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan and brown. Add to it a tablespoonful of flour, mix, add a half-pint of the liquor in which the meat was boiled, stir constantly until it boils, add a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce; then pour it over and around the beef, and serve. BEEF BOUILLI Take a piece of the round, weighing four pounds. Tie it into a neat shape with strong muslin or tape, put it into a large stewing-pan, cover with boiling water; stand over a moderate fire, skim carefully, and simmer forty-five minutes to every pound. When the meat is half done, add a large teaspoonful of salt and one carrot, one onion, and one turnip, sliced. Fifteen minutes before you dish it, add two sliced potatoes. When done, dish the meat. Rub together one tablespoonful of butter or suet and three tablespoonfuls of flour, stir them into the boiling stew; season to taste, and serve in a tureen, reserving enough vegetables to gar- nish the meat. MEATS 95 STEW OF BEEF WITH DUMPLINGS Two pounds of lean beef from the under side of the round, or a shoulder piece. Cut it into pieces about an inch square; dredge thickly with flour. Put two tablespoonfuls of dripping or butter into a frying-pan, place it on a good fire; as soon as it is very hot, throw in the meat and shake or stir until all is nicely browned. Now skim it out and put it in a saucepan. Add one tablespoonful of flour to the dripping or butter remaining in the frying-pan, mix, then add one quart of boiling water; stir over the fire until it boils, then strain it over the meat; add one small onion and a sprig of parsley. Cover the saucepan and let it simmer for two hours. When the meat is half done, add a teaspoonful of salt and three dashes of black pepper. Now sift one pint of flour, add to it a heaping teaspoonful of baking powder, and sift again; add a quarter of a tea- spoonful of salt and just enough milk (a little over a gill) to make a soft dough. Do not work it much. Dip the dough by small spoonfuls, and place them over the top of the meat, cover quickly and let simmer ten minutes. Do not uncover the saucepan while the dumplings are cooking, or they will fall immediately. After you add the dumplings, the stew will scorch easily; therefore move the kettle to a moder- ate part of the fire. Serve as soon as the dumplings are done. A STEW OF BEEF WITH OKRA Proceed exactly the same as for beef bouilli, adding two dozen okras, sliced, one hour before the stew is done. PRESSED MEAT No. I i quart of pieces of cold i teaspoonful of cinnamon cooked meat i teaspoonful of allspice y? teaspoonful of cloves % teaspoonful of mace y^ teaspoonful of black pepper Salt to taste i cup of boiling stock 96 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Mix all the ingredients together, then press into a square mould and stand in a cold place to cool. When cold, turn it from the mould, cut it into slices, and serve. For this you can use any meat left from soups. PRESSED MEAT No. 2 6 pounds of the brisket of beef }£ teaspoonful of ground cloves % teaspoonful of ground mace l/2 teaspoonful of ground cinnamon ytz teaspoonful of ground allspice % teaspoonful of black pepper 1 teaspoonful of salt s Dash of cayenne 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar Cover the meat with cold water and simmer for five hours. When done, take out and stand away to cool. Boil the liquor until reduced to a pint. When the meat is cold, remove the bones, and cut it into small pieces; add to it all the spices, salt and pepper, and press into a square basin or mould. Now add the vinegar to the pint of boiling liquor, pour it over the meat and stand in a cold place for twelve hours. Then loosen it from the sides of the mould and turn it carefully out, and it is ready to serve. MASHES AND WARMED-OVER MEATS BAKED HASH No. 1 1 pint of chopped cooked meat 1 pint of chopped raw potatoes y2 pint of gravy or water 1 tablespoon ml of butter, melted Salt and pepper to taste Mix all the ingredients together, turn into a mould, and Lake in a moderate oven one hour. MEATS 97 BAKED HASH No. 2 1 quart of cold cooked 1 pint of chopped uncooked beef, chopped fine potatoes 2 eggs Salt and pepper Put the chopped potatoes in a stewing-pan with one pint of water. Let them stew five minutes, then add the meat, and enough water to make the mixture moist. Stew ten minutes longer. Take from the fire, add the eggs (beaten), a teaspoonful of salt, and three dashes of black pepper. Turn it into a baking-dish and bake twenty minutes in a quick oven. CORNED BEEF HASH 1 pint of cooked corned 1 tablespoonful of butter beef, chopped fine 1 teaspoonful of onion juice 1 pint of cold boiled po- 1 cup of stock or water tatoes, chopped fine 3 dashes of pepper Mix the meat and potatoes together, put them in a frying- pan, add the stock, butter, onion juice, and pepper; stir constantly until it boils. Serve on buttered toast, PLAIN HASH Take any pieces left from cold roasts, steaks, or stews, chop very fine. To every quart of this meat allow 1 onion 2 hard-boiled eggs 1 tablespoonful of butter y2 Pmt of hot water Salt and pepper to taste. Chop the onion and hard-boiled eggs very fine, then put them with the meat into a stewing-pan ; add the butter, salt, and pepper. Stew and stir over a very slow fire for fifteen minutes. HASH ON TOAST Cut pieces of cold meat into small squares; to every pint of these squares allow one tablespoonful of butter, one tablespoonful of flour, and a half-pint of boiling water. 98 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Put the butter into a frying-pan, and, when a nice brown, add the flour; mix well; add the water, and stir until it boils; now add the meat; salt and pepper to taste. Place on a moderate fire, and let simmer for fifteen minutes. Toast squares of bread, butter them, and place on a hot dish. Put the meat on the toast, and pour the sauce around it. Chop any remains of steaks, roasts or stews very fine. Grease deep pie-dishes. Put a layer of mashed potatoes (cold ones, left over, will answer) in the bottom of the dish, then a layer of meat, then a layer of stale bread crumbs; sprinkle with salt and pepper; place here and there a few bits of butter, and moisten with a half-cup of beef gravy, then another layer of potatoes. Dip a knife into milk and smooth over the top. Bake in a moderate oven about a half hour, until a nice brown. Serve hot. i pint of cold cooked meat, 2 ounces of bread Put the butter in a frying-pan, slice into it the onion, and fry until a nice brown ; add the bread and milk; take from the fire and let stand ten minutes. Blanch and chop the almonds very fine; add these, the meat, the curry, and the eggs, well beaten, to the ingredients in the frying-pan; mix all well together. Rub a deep pie-dish with butter and the juice of a lemon; put the mixture into this, and bake in a moderate oven about twenty minutes. Serve with boiled rice in a separate dish. BOSTON BROWN HASH BOBOTEE chopped fine small onion 2 tablespoonfuls of butter i cup of milk 8 sweet almonds 3 eggs i teaspoon ful of cuny powder MEATS 99 CECILS 2 cups of cold cooked meat, chopped fine Yolks of two eggs i tablespoon ful of butter 2 tablespoon fuls of bread crumbs ^ of a nutmeg, grated i teaspoonful of onion juice i teaspoonful of salt 2 dashes of black pepper Put all the ingredients into a frying-pan, and stir over the fire until thoroughly hot. Take from the fire and turn out to cool. When cold, form into balls about the size of a walnut, dip first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling oil or fat. Serve with Bechamel sauce. TOAD IN A HOLE i pint of cold cooked meat i pint of milk i egg . y2 teaspoonful of salt 6 large tablespoonfuls of flour Cut the meat into pieces one inch square, put them in a greased baking-dish. Beat the egg very light, add it to the milk, and pour it gradually into the flour, beating all the while. Strain through a fine sieve; add salt and pep- per, and pour it over the meat. Bake in a moderate oven one hour. When done, serve it quickly in the dish in which it was baked. BEEFSTEAK PIE i quart of cold cooked meat, cut into dice 2 slices of bacon, cut into small pieces 6 medium-sized potatoes, cut into dice Salt and pepper i tablespoon ful of butter Line a baking-dish with plain paste. Cover the potatoes with boiling water and parboil them ten minutes; then drain. Put a layer of the meat in the bottom of the ift r» t\ i n (\ ■ \J \J " vr xj 100 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK baking-dish, then a layer of the potatoes, then a few pieces of the bacon, and a few pieces of the paste, about an inch square; sprinkle with salt and pepper; then put in an- other layer of meat, and so on until all is used. Cut the butter into bits, and put it over the last layer. Cover with plain paste, making a small hole in the centre, and bake in a quick oven three-quarters of an hour. Make a cream or brown sauce, and when the pie is done, place a funnel in the hole in the upper crust and pour the sauce into the pie through it. Serve in the dish in which it was baked. BEEF CROQUETTES Make same as chicken croquettes, leaving out the sweet- breads, and using one pint of cold cooked beef instead of chicken. MEAT RISSOLES Make a plain hash (see recipe) and stand it out to cool. Roll out any pieces of plain or puff paste left from pies or patties; cut into cakes with a cutter five inches in diam. eter; place one tablespoonful of the hash a little on one side of the centre; fold over the other side of the paste, like a turnover; press the edges tightly together, and so on until you have them all made. The recipe given will make two dozen. Place them in a baking-pan and bake in a quick oven fifteen minutes. Serve on a heated napkin, with Bechamel sauce in a boat. TO PICKLE BEEF The beef must be fresh killed. Wipe every piece with a dry towel until free from moisture. If the pieces are very large, gash them with a knife, here and there, to allow the brine to penetrate. To fifty pounds of meat allow one ME A TS 101 and a half ounces of saltpetre, one and a half pounds of brown sugar, about nine or ten gallons of water, and sufficient Liverpool salt to make a brine. Mix the sugar, saltpetre and water together; add the salt until the brine will float an egg or a potato. Have ready the meat in a tub or barrel, pour the brine upon it, skimming oft' what- ever may float. Cover well with a thick cloth, and watch it carefully for one week, skimming every day. The brine must cover the meat. If the quantity of water given is not sufficient, make more brine from salt and water, and add to it. In about two months, drain this brine off, throw it away, and cover with a new brine made the same as before. In this way your meat will keep the entire year perfectly sweet. It will be ready to use after it has been in pickle two weeks. The skimming is an important point, also the Liverpool salt. Tongues may be put in the same tub, one or two at a time, to remain four weeks before smoking. They require about one week's smoking. When done, wrap each tongue and sew tightly in coarse muslin; then hang in a dark, cool place. TO CORN BEEF FOR DRYING (Grandmother's Recipe) Cut a round of beef into four pieces. Rub each piece lightly with salt on all sides, and let it stand one day be- fore corning. Make a brine from one tub of water, a half- pound of sugar, a teaspoon ful of powdered saltpetre, and salt until the brine will float an egg. Put the meat into this brine, and allow it to remain two weeks. Cover it carefully and look at it frequently. See that the brine covers the meat; if not, make a little more from salt and water and add to it. At the end of the two weeks, take out the meat and hang it in a cool place, to dry. It may be smoked, but many think this destroys the flavor. 102 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK The latter part of October, March or April are the best times for corning beef. If the weather is too warm, the meat will spoil before it dries; if too cold, it will not take the salt well. This recipe will answer also for mutton hams. TO CORN BEEF FOR BOILING Wipe the meat carefully and rub hot salt into it until all disappears; then add more salt and rub again, and so on until the meat will imbibe no more. Place it in a jar or crock, stand in a cold, dry cellar for one week, turning it every day, and it will be ready for use. This recipe is for small quantities of meat, to use as soon as corned. TO BOIL CORNED BEEF Wash it well, and put it on to boil in cold water. Bring slowly to a simmer, and simmer thirty minutes to every pound. If the meat is to be served cold, allow it to cool in the liquor in which it was boiled. If for a hot dinner, you may boil with it cabbage, tur- nips and potatoes, allowing an hour and a half for the cabbage, one hour for turnips, and twenty minutes for the potatoes to cook. PRESSED CORNED BEEF Take six pounds of the brisket of beef, remove the bones and tie it tightly in a cloth. Put it in a kettle and cover with cold water. Simmer gently for five hours. When done, take it out, place it between two tin sheets or large plates, put a heavy weight upon it over night. Remove the cloth, and it is ready for use. MEATS 103 FRIZZLED BEEF Chip dried beef very thin. To every half-pound allow a large tablespoonful of butter, a half-pint of milk, and one tablespoonful of flour. Melt the butter in a frying-pan, then add the meat, and stir over the fire for about two min- utes, or until the butter begins to brown; dredge in the flour, stir again, then add the milk and a little pepper, stir again until it boils, and serve immediately. FRICASSEE OF DRIED BEEF Cook the same as frizzled beef, but use two even table- spoonfuls of flour instead of one. Add the beaten yolks of two eggs just as you take it from the fire. Corned beef's liver may be cooked in the same way. DRIED BEEF RELISH This is a way to use up the hard, small ends of dried beef, that you cannot cut. Grate the meat, and, to every cupful, allow four table spoonfuls of cream, four eggs, well beaten, and a little pepper. Put the meat and cream into a stewing-pan; when hot, add the eggs; stir until the mixture becomes thick. Serve immediately on squares of buttered toast. STEWED BEEF'S HEART Soak the heart three hours in cold water, remove the mus- cles from the inside, and take out every atom of blood. Make a forcemeat as follows: One cup of bread crumbs, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one tablespoonful of melted butter, halfa teaspoonful of marjoram, halfa teaspoon- ful of salt, and two dashes of black pepper; mix, and stuff the heart. Tie it together with twine, and wrap tightly in a cloth, sewing the ends together so that the stuffing cannot possibly get out. Put it. into a small stewpan with the 104 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK point of the heart down, nearly cover with boiling water, and simmer until tender—about three hours. When done, there should be about a pint of water in the stewpan. Remove the cloth and dish the heart. Put one tablespoon- ful of butter in the frying-pan, and when brown add two tablespoonfuls of flour; mix well, and add the water in which the heart was boiled; stir constantly until it boils; add salt and pepper to taste. Take from the fire, and, if you use it, add four tablespoonfuls of sherry; pour it over the heart, and serve very hot, as it chills quickly. Currant jelly should always be served with beef's heart. BAKED BEEF'S HEART Prepare the same as for stewed heart, remove the cloth, place the heart in a baking-pan, baste with melted butter, and brown in a quick oven. When done, place it on a heated dish. Put one tablespoonful of butter in the baking- pan, and, when brown, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and a pint of the water in which the heart was stewed; stir constantly until it boils, add salt and pepper to taste, and four tablespoonfuls of sherry. Pour it over the heart, and serve very hot. SPICED BEEF'S HEART Soak the heart three hours in cold water, remove the mus- cies from the inside and take out every atom of blood. Mix together one teaspoonful of allspice, a half-teaspoonful of cloves, a half-teaspoonful of cinnamon, a quarter-tea- spoonful of mace or nutmeg, three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and two dashes of black pepper. Put this mixture into the heart, rub a little on the outside, and stand in a cold place over night. In the morning, finish the same as a baked heart. Have all the spices finely ground. MEATS 105 HEART WITH VEAL STUFFING Soak and clean as in the preceding recipes. Make a filling as follows: One pound of uncooked veal, chopped fine, a quarter-pound of salt pork, chopped fine, or a quarter- pound of sausage-meat, two heaping tablespoonfuls of dried bread crumbs, a tablespoonful of onion juice, one tea- spoonful of sait, a quarter-teaspoonful of black pepper, if you like, a dozen mushrooms, chopped fine, and one egg slightly beaten. Mix all these ingredients well together, and stuff the heart. Wrap tightly in a cloth and sew it. Stand it in a small saucepan, with the point down, cover with boiling water, and simmer slowly three hours; then take it out and remove the cloth. Bake in a quick oven one hour, basting every ten minutes with a little melted butter. Serve with a brown sauce, the same as baked heart. This is also a nice cold dish, cut. in thin slices, using no sauce. STEWED KIDNEYS Be sure that the kidneys are perfectly fresh. Split them in halves; trim off with a sharp-pointed knife, as carefully as possible, the sinews and fat that are inside. Now cut the kidneys into small pieces, put in a stewing-pan, cover with cold water, stand on a moderate fire, and bring almost to boiling point. Drain this water off, cover with fresh cold water, and heat again. Do this three times, each time being careful that it does not boil, or the kidney will be hard and tough. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan, and stir until a nice brown; then add one tablespoonful of flour and a half-pint of stock or boiling water. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon until it boils. Now add one tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, one tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, salt and pepper, and 106 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK the kidney. Stir again until the kidney is thoroughly heated; take from the fire, add four tablespoonfuls of sherry, and serve immediately. KIDNEY SAUTE Split the kidney in halves lengthwise, and trim off, as care- fully as possible, every sinew and all the fat from the inside. Cut it into small pieces. Put two tablespoon fuls of butter into a frying-pan; when melted, add one small onion cut into slices, and the kidney; stir with a wooden spoon, over a brisk fire, for about three minutes; then add one tablespoonful of flour; stir again, then add one gill of stock or water, one gill of sherry; salt and pepper to taste. Stir again about one minute, and serve immediately. KIDNEY Terrapin Style Prepare and cleanse the kidney the same as for stewing. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan; when melted, add to it one tablespoonful of flour, mix, add a half-pint of milk, stir constantly until it boils; add the kidney, salt and pepper to taste. Stir with a wooden spoon until the kidney is thoroughly heated. Take from the fire, add the yolk of one egg, two tablespoonfuls of sherry, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Serve immediately. Calf's liver may be dressed in the same way. TO CORN A BEEF'S LIVER Make a brine from two gallons of water, three-quarters of a pound of brown sugar, a half-ounce of saltpetre, and salt until the brine will float an egg. Pour it into a stone or earthen vessel. Wash and wipe a perfectly healthy beef's liver, put it into this brine, and allow it to remain for one week; then take it out and hang it to dry in a cool place. When dry, chip and frizzle the same as dried beef. This is the nicest way of using beef's liver. MEATS 107 FRIED BEEF'S LIVER Cut the liver into slices about a quarter of an inch in thick- ness, pour boiling water over them; let stand five minutes, then wipe them, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and flour. Put three or four slices of fat bacon in a frying-pan and try out all the fat; then put in the liver; fry on one side, then turn and fry on the other. Do not cook it long (about two minutes) or it will be hard, dry, and indigestible. When done, spread lightly with butter, and serve. It is also very nice served with maitre d'hotel butter. TRIPE Tripe is the large stomach of the ruminating animals, and is chiefly composed of fibrin, albumen, and water. It is nutritious and easily digested. To prepare.—Scald the stomach with boiling water suf- ficiently to loosen the inside coating. If properly scalded, it will easily scrape oft". Wash it well through several boil- ing waters, then put it into cold water and soak over night. Scrape again until white and clean. Place it in a stewpan, cover with cold water; add one onion, a sprig of parsley, twelve whole cloves, and twelve pepper-corns. Simmer gently for six hours, and it is ready to use in any way. It is usually sold in cities cleaned, but not boiled. STEWED TRIPE Cut two pounds of boiled tripe (half honeycomb and half plain) into pieces about one and a half inches long and a half-inch wide. Cut two ounces of ham into dice, and put it in a stewpan, add a slice of onion, a sprig of parsley, and one bay leaf. Stir over the fire until brown, then add one tablespoonful of flour, mix, add one pint of milk. Stir constantly until it boils, then add the tripe, salt, and 108 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK pepper, and let it stand over a very moderate fire for five minutes. Remove the onion, parsley, and bay leaf, and it is ready to serve. FRIED TRIPE It is better to give tripe its long boiling the day before you want it. Cut the tripe into pieces about the size of an oyster, sprinkle with salt and pepper, let stand ten minutes. Dip first in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Serve with sauce Tartare. It may also be dipped in French fritter batter and fried. Serve without sauce. BROILED TRIPE Cut boiled tripe into pieces about two inches square, season with salt and cayenne, baste lightly with melted butter, and broil until brown on one side, then turn and brown the other. Serve on a hot dish, with onion sauce in a boat. TRIPE WITH MUSHROOMS Cut two pounds of boiled tripe into pieces about one inch square. Cut a quarter-pound of salt bacon into slices, and try out all the fat; take out the bacon and throw it away. Season the tripe with salt and pepper, and cover it with flour, then brown it on both sides in the hot bacon-fat. Take it carefully out of the fat and put it on a hot dish; add one tablespoonful of flour to the fat remaining, mix, add a half-pint of stock or water, and a dozen mushrooms, chopped fine; stir until it boils. Then add one table- spoonful of vinegar; salt and pepper to taste. Pour it over the tripe, and serve very hot. Sherry may be used instead of vinegar, if liked. ME A TS 109 TRIPE AND OYSTERS 50 oysters 1 pound of boiled tripe i pint of cream 1 tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour Salt and pepper to taste Boil the oysters in their own liquor one minute; drain. Put the cream and a half-pint of the liquor on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the boiling cream; stir constantly until it boils, add the tripe cut into pieces about one inch square; let come to a boil, add salt and pepper, and then the oysters, bring to a boil again and serve very hot. SOUSED TRIPE 2 pounds of boiled tripe i pint of vinegar (honeycomb) i blade of mace i8 whole cloves i8 whole allspice i2 pepper-corns teaspoonful of salt i small onion Cut the tripe into pieces about two inches long and one inch wide. Put all the other ingredients into a porcelain kettle to boil. Put the tripe in a glass or stone jar, pour the boiling vinegar over it, and stand away for forty-eight hours. It will keep two or three weeks. TONGUE TO BOIL SMOKED BEEF'S TONGUE Wash the tongue well, and soak it in cold water over night. In the morning put it into a kettle full of cold water, stand it over a very slow fire, and simmer gently for four hours, or until you can pierce it with a fork, and it will be per- fectly tender. If the water boils away, add more boiling water. When done, stand away to cool in the liquor in which it was boiled; when cold, remove the skin, begin- ning at the tip, and stripping it back, and it is ready to use. 110 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK If you wish to serve it as a hot meat dish for dinner, take it out when done; skin, place on a heated platter, cover the root end with sprigs of parsley, and garnish the dish with black-currant jelly. Another very pretty way to serve cold boiled tongue, is to cut it in thin slices, arrange the slices around a large meat plate, each one over- lapping the other, with sauce Tartare in the centre of the dish. Make six button radishes into tulips (as directed), stand them at equal distances around the dish. Nastur- tium flowers may be placed between, with little bunches of water-cress. BRAISED TONGUE i fresh beef's tongue 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 quart of stock or the water 1 carrot in which the tongue was 1 onion boiled Sprig of parsley 1 turnip 1 potato Stalk of celery or one-half 2 bay leaves teaspoonful of celery 1 tablespoon ful of Wor- seed cestershire sauce 1 tablespoonful of mushroom Salt and pepper to taste catsup Wash the tongue, put it into a kettle and cover with boiling water; simmer slowly for two hours. Then take out the tongue, skin it, trim off the rough pieces at the roots, and remove the bones. Now tie the tip of the tongue around to the side of the thicker part; fasten it. Now put the butter in a frying-pan and brown it, then add the flour; mix well; then add the stock and onion, carrot, turnip, and potato, sliced, parsley, bay leaves, Worcestershire sauce, and catsup; stir until it boils. Put the tongue in a baking or braising-pan, pour this sauce around it; if in a baking- pan, cover, put it in the oven, and bake two hours, basting every fifteen minutes. When done, dish the tongue, re- MEA TS 111 move the strings. Boil the sauce until reduced to one pint, pour it over and around the tongue, and serve. This may be garnished with mushrooms, or vegetables cut into fancy shapes. TURKISH TONGUE ( Sophia Wells Royce Williams ) i fresh beef's tongue 3 button onions y2 dozen cloves 6 pepper-corns y2 pound of raisins y 2 pound of dates 1 carrot, cut into fancy A heaping teaspoonful of shapes salt Wash the tongue, put it in a kettle, cover with boiling -water and simmer two hours. Then take it out, skin it and tie into shape, the same as for braised tongue. Pour the water out of the soup-kettle (this may be saved for soup), return the tongue to the kettle, and add all the other ingredients; cover with two quarts of fresh boiling water, and simmer gently two hours longer. Serve with some of the raisins and carrots around the dish. LARDED AND SPICED TONGUE i fresh beefs tongue % teaspoonful of black % pound of larding pork pepper fa teaspoonful of cloves 2 tablespoonfuls of butter y 2 teaspoonful of allspice 2 tablespoonfuls of flour l/z teaspoonful of salt 1 onion 2 bay leaves 1 carrot Wash the tongue, put it into boiling water, and simmer gently two hours. Take it out, remove the skin and trim off the roots. Put the butter in a large stewpan, and when brown add the flour, then add one quart of the liquor in which the tongue was boiled (save the remainder for stock); stir constantly until it boils, then add the spices, the onion chopped fine, and the carrot cut into fancy shapes. Lard the tongue on the upper side the same as a fillet, put it into 112 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK the stewpan, and simmer gently for two hours, adding a quarter teaspoonful of coriander seed one hour before it is done. Serve with the under side of the tongue down, and the sauce poured over and around it. The coriander seed may be omitted. FILLETS OF TONGUE Cut any pieces of cold tongue that may be left from either of the preceding dishes in slices about a half-inch thick. Fry them in butter, and serve with mushroom sauce. TONGUE ON TOAST i cup of cold boiled tongue or ham Yolks of two eggs ]/^ teaspoonful of mustard Dash of cayenne Chop the tongue or ham very fine. Beat the yolks until light, add them to tongue or ham, add the seasoning, stir the whole over the fire until the eggs are cooked. Serve immediately on squares of buttered toast. MUTTON Mutton is usually divided into fore and hind quarters. The hind quarter is sub-divided into leg and loin, the fore quarter into shoulder, breast and neck. A saddle of mut- ton is two loins. Mutton is very much better if hung at least one week in cold weather, but three weeks will not hurt it. The flesh of good Southdown mutton should be a bright red color, the fat firm and white; and the fatter the mutton the better and more tender the lean parts. The leg, shoulder, and loin make nice roasting pieces. The breast and neck are used for soups and stews. The loins are also cut into loin and French chops. MEATS 113 BAKED LEG OF MUTTON Procure a nice well-hung leg of Southdown mutton weigh- ing not less than ten pounds. Wipe it with a damp towel, place in a baking-pan, dredge with pepper, add one tea- spoonful of salt to one cup of boiling water, and pour it into a pan. Now place the pan in a very hot oven, and baste every ten minutes, adding no more water after the first evaporates, as there will be sufficient fat for basting. Bake fifteen minutes to every pound. Decorate the bone with a quilling of white paper, and serve with brown sauce, the same as roast beef. To roast in the tin kitchen, proceed in the same manner as for roast beef. MUTTON Venison Style Take a hind quarter of a good four-year-old Southdown mutton. Wash it well, inside and out, with cider vinegar; do not wipe it, but hang in a cold, dry place,—not in the cellar if you can possibly find another place, as the moisture of a cellar is very apt to spoil the meat. Sponge in this way every other day for one week. Then mix a quar- ter ounce each of white pepper and allspice together, and rub well into the meat. Do this two days in succession, and let it hang another week. When ready to use, sponge off the spices with vinegar, and wipe dry. Roast the same as a leg of mutton, adding to the sauce, just before you pour it into the boat, one tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, one tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and if you use wine, four tablespoonfuls of sherry. Serve with red or black currant jelly in a separate dish. BOILED LEG OF MUTTON Wipe the leg with a damp towel. Dust a cloth thickly with flour, and wrap the leg up in it. Put it into a kettle, cover with boiling water, and simmer gently fifteen minutes 114 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK to every pound; add a teaspoon ful of salt when the leg is half done. When done, remove the towel carefully, gar- nish with parsley, trim the bone with quilled paper, and serve with caper sauce either in a sauce-boat or poured over the mutton. Save the liquor in which it was boiled for stock. BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON Wipe the leg with a damp towel. Slice one carrot, one onion, one turnip, in the bottom of a baking or braising pan, add also two bay leaves, one stalk of celery, four cloves, and a sprig of parsley. Place the leg on top these vegetables, add one quart of water or stock and one tea- spoonful of salt. Put on the lid, if a braising-pan; if a baking-pan, cover with another pan. Put into a quick oven, and braise fifteen minutes to every pound. When done, take out on a heated dish. Put one large tablespoon- ful of butter in a frying-pan and stir over the fire until a nice brown; then add two tablespoonful of flour, mix, and add one pint of the liquor from braising-pan; stir constantly until it boils; add one tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, one tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, salt and pepper to taste. Pour this over and around the leg. Serve currant jelly with it. SADDLE OF MUTTON ( Baked or Roasted in the Oven ) Bake or roast the same as a leg, ten minutes to every pound of meat. SHOULDER OF MUTTON This maybe roasted plain, or have the bone taken out, and the space filled with a bread stuffing, the same as for poul- try. Bake fifteen minutes to every pound. ME A TS 115 BROILED CHOPS Chops are broiled exactly the same as beefsteak, trimming off most of the fat before broiling. Serve plain with but- ter, pepper and salt, or with tomato sauce. French chops are broiled in the same manner, deco- rating the bones with paper quillings. BREADED CHOPS Broil French chops ten minutes, turning them very often. Take them from the broiler, baste with melted butter, sea- son with salt and pepper; let them stand ten minutes. Then dip them in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Fill the bottom of a meat dish with tomato sauce, slip the paper quillings over the end of the bones, and arrange the chops nicely in the sauce. Garnish with parsley, and serve very hot. BREADED CHOPS WITH PUREE OF POTATOES Broil and bread the chops as directed in preceding recipe. Have ready six boiled potatoes, mash them fine, add a half- cup of boiling cream, one teaspoonful of salt, one table- spoonful of butter, and a dash or two of pepper; beat over the fire until light. Place in the centre of a heated dish, stand the chops around it, trim each bone with paper quillings, and serve very hot. BROILED CHOPS WITH POTATO PUREE Broil French chops" as directed. Put a tablespoonful of potato puff mixture on each chop, and place in a baking- pan. Brown in a quick oven, decorate the bones with papers, garnish with parsley and serve immediately, or the potato will fall. 116 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK MUTTON en PAPILLOTE y^ pound sausage meat 6 loin cutlets Yolk of one egg i onion 2 tablespoonfuls of butter Put one tablespoonful of the butter in a frying-pan, and when hot, brown the cutlets on both sides. Take them out, season with salt and pepper. Add the remainder of the butter to the frying-pan, the onion cut into slices, and the .sausage meat; stir over the fire for fifteen minutes. When done, take from the fire, add the yolk of the egg and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Cut six pieces of white paper in a heart-like shape, large enough to hold one cutlet each. Put a tablespoonful of the mixture on one side of the paper; put a cutlet on top of this, then another spoon- ful of the mixture on top of that, fold the other half of the paper over all. The edges should then be folded together tightly one over the other. Place them in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. Serve in the papers with Bechame) sauce. CURRY OF MUTTON i pint of finely chopped l/, cupful of rice mutton i tablespoonful curry i tablespoonful of butter powder i tablespoonful of flour 2 quarts boiling water Salt to taste Wash the rice and put it in the boiling water; let it boil thirty-five minutes. Drain in a colander. Now put the butter in a frying-pan; when melted, add the flour and stir until smooth; add a half-pint of boiling water; let boil up once, then add meat, curry and salt. Stir ten minutes. Now heap it in the centre of a meat dish, and put the rice around, in a border. Brush all over with beaten egg, and place in the oven a few minutes to brown. MEATS 117 SCALLOP OF MUTTON Take scraps of cold mutton and cut in small pieces; put a layer in the bottom of a baking-dish, then a layer of stewed tomatoes, then a layer of bread crumbs; sprinkle with salt and pepper, and put over a few bits of butter, then another layer of meat, and so on until the dish is full. Have the last layer crumbs. Bake in a moderate oven one and a half hours. SHEPHERD'S PIE i pound of cold mutton i tablespoonful of butter i pint of cold boiled pota- y2 cup of stock or water toes Salt and pepper to taste THE CRUST 4 good-sized potatoes % cup of cream Salt and pepper to taste Cut the mutton and boiled potatoes into pieces about one inch square; put them in a deep pie or baking-dish, add the stock or water, salt, pepper, and half the butter cut into small bits. Then make the crust as follows: Pare and boil the potatoes, then mash them, add the cream, the remain- der of the butter, salt and pepper, beat until light. Now add flour enough to make a soft dough—about one cupful. Roll it out into a sheet, make a hole in the centre of the crust, to allow the escape of steam. Bake in a moderate oven one hour, serve in the same dish. HOT POT 2 pounds of cold cooked mutton 6 medium-sized potatoes 2 large onions i tablespoonful of chopped parsley i quart of water or stock Cut the mutton into pieces about one inch square. Pare and cut four of the potatoes into dice, also the onions. Put a 118 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK layer of the mutton in the bottom of a baking-dish, then a layer of potatoes, then a sprinkling of onion, parsley, salt and pepper, and continue these alternations until all is used. Cut the remaining two potatoes into three slices each; cover these over the top, add the water or stock, and bake in a moderate oven for two hours. Serve in the baking- dish. RAGOUT OF MUTTON Cut cold mutton or lamb into pieces about one inch square. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan, and, when very brown, add one tablespoonful of flour; mix; add a half-pint of stock or water; stir constantly until it boils, then add salt and pepper to taste, and a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Now add one pint of the mutton, and stand the frying-pan over boiling water for fifteen minutes, until the mutton is thoroughly heated. Add one tablespoonful of currant jelly and one of sherry. Send to the table very hot. CHINESE MUTTON i pint of cold roast or boiled mutton, chopped fine 2 tablespoonfuls of butter y2 pint of water or stock y pint of green peas or y2 can i onion Small head of lettuce Salt and pepper to taste Put the mutton, butter, stock, peas (uncooked, if green), salt, pepper, lettuce, and onion chopped fine on to stew slowly for one hour. When done, have ready one cup of rice nicely boiled. Put the mixture in the centre of a heated dish, and the rice as a border around it, and serve. Curry sauce may be served with the dish, and is a nice accompaniment. MEA TS 119 IRISH STEW 3 pounds of the neck of mutton 4 potatoes, cut into dice 4 good-sized onions 2 quarts of water Salt and pepper to taste Cut the meat into small pieces, cover with the water, which should be boiling, add the onions sliced and simmer gently for three hours. About half an hour before the meat is done add the potatoes. Season with salt and pepper, and, if you like it, the beaten yolk of an egg. Serve. Dumplings may be added the same as in stew of beef with dumplings. HARICOT OF MUTTON 2 pounds of loin chops i turnip 2 onions i carrot i bay leaf I tablespoon ful of flour i tablespoonful of mushroom ft pint of water or stock catsup i tablespoonful of butter i stalk of celery Salt and pepper Put the butter in a frying-pan and, when very hot, fry the chops brown on both sides; take them up, and add the flour to the butter remaining in the pan; mix, and add the stock or water; stir constantly until it boils. Then put the chops back, add the onions cut into slices, salt, pepper, the celery cut into small pieces, and the catsup. Stand over a slow fire to simmer for three-quarters of an hour. Cut the carrot and turnip into slices, then into fancy shapes with vegetable cutters; cover them with boiling water, boil ten minutes; drain, and add them, with the bay leaf, to the meat, and allow them to simmer with the meat the full time it is cooking. When done, add one tablespoonful of sherry, if you use it, and serve very hot. 120 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK SHEEP'S HEAD HASH Clean a sheep's head, according to directions for cleaning calf's head, then put it on to stew with the liver and heart well washed, add one onion, and simmer gently one and a half hours. When done, take out and stand away to cool. When cold, take all the meat from the head, chop it with the heart and liver very fine. Now put them into a stew- ing-pan, add one large tablespoonful of butter, and one pint of water, or liquor in which they were boiled, salt and pepper; let stew up once, and serve with squares of toast around the dish. DRESSED SHEEP'S HEAD A sheep's head may be dressed the same as a calf's head, using two heads instead of one calf's head. SHEEP'S TONGUE Fresh sheep's tongues may be braised the same as beef's tongue, using one dozen for the recipe given. TO BOIL SALT OR SMOKED SHEEP'S TONGUES Wash one dozen sheep's tongues, and soak them over night in cold water. In the morning, put them in a kettle of cold water and bring them slowly to a boil; skim all the scum from the top, and simmer two hours. When done, skin and serve around a bed of kale or spinach. SHEEP KIDNEYS en BROCHETTE No. i 6 sheep's kidneys y£ pound of bacon i tablespoonful of butter Cut each kidney through the centre lengthwise, remove the white veins and fat. Wash well in cold water, cover with boiling water and let stand five minutes, then wipe them MEATS 121 dry. Cut the bacon into slices, and then into pieces the size of a half-kidney. Place one piece of kidney on a skewer, then a piece of bacon, then kidney, and so on, allowing about three pieces of bacon and two pieces of kidney to each skewer. Place them on a broiler, baste with the butter, and broil over a clear fire five minutes. Dust lightly with salt and pepper and serve on the skewers. These make a very nice breakfast relish. SHEEP KIDNEYS en BROCHETTE No. 2 Cut six sheep's kidneys nearly through without dividing, take out the white veins, wash and scald the same as in preceding recipe. Wipe them dry, and baste them with melted butter. Run a small skewer through each kidney in such a way as to keep the halves partly open. Broil them over a clear fire for about five minutes, take them carefully from the skewers, dust them lightly with salt and pepper, fill the centres with Bearnnaise sauce, and serve immediately. LAMB Lamb, like mutton, should be of a bright red color with white fat. It is in season from April to September, but is best when two months old. It will not keep like mutton, and should be used at least within three days after killing. Like veal, it is unwholesome if not thoroughly cooked. The better way of cooking is to roast or bake it. The loin may be cut into chops and cooked the same as mutton chops. TO BAKE OR ROAST A QUARTER OF LAMB Wipe the meat with a damp towel, place it in a baking-pan, and dredge it with pepper. Put one teaspoonful of salt in . f 122 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK the bottom of the pan, add one cup of water to baste with at first. When that evaporates, use its own drippings. Lamb must be basted every ten minutes and baked fifteen minutes to every pound, in a very hot oven. Mint sauce, green peas, and asparagus tips should be served with spring lamb. VEAL Veal is divided, the same as mutton, into fore and hind quarters; the fore quarter is sub-divided into loin, breast, shoulder, and neck; the hind, into leg and loin. Chops are cut from the loin, and the leg is used for cutlets and fillets. The fillet is a solid piece cut from the leg, also called a cushion, and does not correspond with the fillet of beef. Do not buy veal that is too young, as it is not only unwholesome, but dangerous. It may be known by the small and tender bones; the flesh has a bluish tinge and a soft, flabby appearance. A calf should not be killed until it is two months old, then the flesh is firm, with a pinkish tinge, and the bones are hard. The loin, shoulder, fillet, and breast are used for roast- ing. The knuckle, which is the lower part of the leg after the cutlets are taken off, and the neck, are used for soups, stews and pies. ROAST LOIN OF VEAL Wipe the loin, place it in a baking-pan, dredge it with pepper, add a teaspoonful of salt and cup of water to the pan, place in a very quick oven for fifteen minutes; then cool the oven somewhat by closing the drafts, or lifting a MEATS 123 lid off .the stove if necessary, and roast slowly fifteen min- utes for every pound of veal, basting frequently, at first with the water in the pan, and afterwards with its own gravy. Veal must be well done to be eatable. When done, make a gravy the same as roast beef. STUFFED BREAST OF VEAL FOR THE STUFFING i cup of bread crumbs ^ pound of salt pork i teaspoonful of sweet i teaspoonful of thyme marjoram i teaspoonful of salt 2 dashes pepper Chop the pork very fine, add it and all the other ingredi- ents to the bread crumbs. Wipe a breast of veal with a damp towel; make long gashes between the ribs, and fill with this stuffing. Place it in a baking-pan, and roast and finish the same as the loin. ROAST SHOULDER OF VEAL Have the butcher remove the bone from the shoulder, fill the space from which the bone was taken with a stuffing made the same as for the breast; pin the meat together with a skewer to prevent the stuffing from coming out, and roast the same as in preceding recipes. VEAL CUTLETS Have the cutlets as thin as possible. Dust with salt, pepper, and flour. Put a tablespoonful of dripping in a frying-pan, and, when very hot, put in the cutlets; when brown on one side, turn and brown on the other; take out and place on a heated dish. Add a tablespoonful of flour to the fat remaining in the pan, mix, and stir until brown; add a half-pint of water, stir until it boils, add salt and pepper to taste, pour over the cutlets, and serve. 124 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK VEAL CUTLETS BREADED Have the cutlets as thin as possible, cover them with boiling water, let stand one minute, drain and wipe dry. Cut into pieces about two inches square. Dip first in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs. Put two tablespoonfuls of drip- ping in a frying-pan; when hot, fry the cutlets first on one side and then on the other. Dish, and serve with brown gravy made according to preceding recipe or with maitre d'hotel butter. GRENADINES OF VEAL These are made the same as grenadines of beef. A BREAKFAST RELISH Cut a cutlet of veal into pieces about two inches square, and season with salt and pepper. Dip first into beaten egg, then into chopped mushrooms. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan, and, when hot, fry the cutlets until brown. Make a brown sauce the same as for veal cutlets, pour over the squares, and serve. VEAL CROQUETTES Veal croquettes are made precisely the same as chicken croquettes, using chopped veal and leaving out the sweet- breads (calf's brains may be added in their place), and, if made carefully, good judges can scarcely discern the dif- ference. I remember upon one occasion my college class pre- pared a supper, from a limited sum of money, for the remainder of the students, numbering nearly two hundred. As our purse would not warrant chicken, and we must have croquettes, we used for them a leg of veal, boiled with one lonely chicken; and the croquettes were pronounced excel- lent by all, one gentleman asking for one to take home to his wife, that she might taste a perfect chicken croquette. MEATS 125 FRICANDELLES OF VEAL i pound of lean veal i gill of milk y'z cup of stale bread i teaspoonful of salt crumbs 2 clashes of pepper 1 large tablespoonful of butter Cook the bread crumbs and milk together until thick and smooth. Chop the veal (which must be uncooked) very fine, add this to the bread and milk, add the salt, pepper, and butter, and stand the mixture away to cool. When cool, form into balls about the size of an egg. Dip them in beaten egg and fry in butter until a light brown, being very careful not to burn them; take them carefully out of the pan. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour to the butter remaining in the pan if not burned—if it is, take two table- spoonfuls of fresh butter and brown it—mix, add one pint of stock, stir until it boils, add salt and pepper to taste. Pour this into a saucepan, put in the fricandelles, cover, and simmer for one hour. When done, add a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and serve. Fricandelles are equally nice made from beef or chicken. VEAL OLIVES 1y 2 pounds of veal cutlet, cut very thin 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 tablespoonful of melted butter 1 pint of stock or boiling water 1 cup of stale bread crumbs 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of sweet marjoram % pound of bacon 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 bay leaf 1 tablespoonful of mushroom catsup Pepper to taste Cut the veal into strips about three inches long and two inches wide. Make a filling from the bread crumbs, salt, 126 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK pepper to taste, parsley, sweet marjoram, and melted butter. Mix thoroughly and spread on the strips of veal, roll them up and tie tightly with twine; now roll them in flour. Put the bacon in a frying-pan, and try out all the fat. Put the olives in this, and brown them on all sides. Now put them in a saucepan, add the flour to the fat remaining in the pan, and stir until a nice brown; then add the stock or boiling water, and stir until it boils; add salt and pepper to taste; pour it over the olives; add the bay leaf and mushroom catsup, cover the saucepan, and let simmer for two hours. Then take up, cut the strings with a sharp knife, and remove them. Put the olives in a row on the dish, strain the sauce over them, and serve. FRICANDEATJ OF VEAL 4 pounds of the fillet of veal i carrot i onion i bay leaf i stalk of celery i turnip 2 sprigs of parsley yi pound of larding pork i teaspoonful of salt Cut the larding pork into lardoons, and lard the fillet thickly over one side. Clean the vegetables, cut them into slices, and put them into a braising or baking-pan with the bay leaf, salt and parsley. Lay the fricandeau on the top of these with the larded side uppermost, and pour around it one quart of stock or water. Put the lid on the braising- pan, or cover the baking-pan with another, and bake in a moderate oven two hours, basting four times. When done, dish the fricandeau, and make a sauce as follows:— i tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour i tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce i tablespoonful of mushroom catsup Put the butter in a frying-pan and stir over the fire until a dark brown; then add the flour, mix, and strain the liquor MEATS 127 from the braisirig-pan into this, which should be one pint— if not, add stock or water; stir constantly until it boils. Take from the fire, add the sauce and catsup, salt and pep- per to taste, pour around the fricandeau, and serve. Green peas are an appropriate accompaniment to this dish. VEAL POT PIE i knuckle of veal I quart of sifted flour i teaspoonful of salt 2 teaspoonfuls of baking 1 large spoonful of lard powder 1 small onion l/, pint of milk 3 pints of water Put the water in a stewpan, add the knuckle, onion and salt, and let all simmer until the meat is tender—-about an hour and a quarter. There must be at least two-thirds of a quart of liquor when the meat is done; if it has evapo- rated, add hot water to make sufficient quantity. Put the flour into a bowl, add the salt, then rub in the lard; add the baking-powder, mix, and moisten with the milk. Roll out on a board, cut with a round cutter, and place over the top of the meat; cover the stewpan and boil fifteen minutes. VEAL PIE 1 knuckle of veal ^ pound of ham 1 onion 4 potatoes, medium size 1 large tablespoonful of 1 tablespoonful of chopped butter parsley Salt and pepper to taste Wipe the knuckle, put it in a kettle, partly cover it with water, add one onion, and simmer gently one hour. Pare the potatoes and cut them into dice; parboil fifteen min- utes and drain. When the veal is done, cut all the meat from the bone, return the bone to the kettle, and let it simmer two or three hours longer for stock. Cut the ham into dice. Line a two-quart tin basin with plain paste, 128 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK and cut the trimmings from the edge into squares. Now put a layer of potatoes in the bottom, then a layer of veal, then a sprinkling of ham, the squares of paste, parsley, salt and pepper, and a few bits of butter, and follow these alter- nations until all is used. Roll out the top crust, make a hole in the centre, wet the edges of the pie with cold water, put on the top crust, press the edges together, and trim. Bake in a quick oven for thirty minutes, or until the crust is done. While this is baking, prepare the sauce. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan, and when melted, add two even tablespoonfuls of flour, mix, but do not brown ; add a half-pint of the liquor in which the knuckle was boiled, and a half-pint of milk, stir con- stantly until it boils"; add the salt and pepper, take from the fire, add the beaten yolk of one egg and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and pour it into the pie, when done, through a funnel placed in the opening of the upper crust. Serve immediately. STEWED KNUCKLE OF VEAL Wipe the knuckle well with a damp towel. Cut it into pieces where it has been cracked. Put it into a kettle with two quarts of boiling water, add one onion cut into slices, one carrot cut into fancy shapes, half a pound of ham cut into dice, and one bay leaf. Cover and stew slowly for two hours, then add a half-cup of washed rice, stew thirty min- utes longer, and serve. VEAL LOAF 3]4 pounds of veal pound of ham i cup of bread crumbs 2 eggs i teaspoonful of salt l/i teaspoonful of pepper i teaspoonful of onion y2 teaspoonful of sage juice 1^ teaspoonful of cloves ]4 teaspoonful of allspice Chop the uncooked veal and ham very fine; add to them MEA TS 129 all the other ingredients, the eggs well beaten; mix thor- oughly, and press into a square pan to mould. Turn it out on a baking-pan, brush it over with beaten egg, and bake in a slow oven for two hours, basting three or four times while baking with a tablespoonful of butter melted in a half-cup of boiling water. Serve cold, cut in thin slices. JELLIED VEAL i knuckle of veal 12 whole cloves 2 onions 6 pepper-corns 1 blade of mace ^ teaspoonful of ground 1 bay leaf allspice 1 gill of good vinegar Salt and pepper to taste Wipe the knuckle and cut it into pieces; put it in a kettle with two quarts of cold water; bring it slowly to simmer- ing point; skin, and simmer gently for two hours; then add the onion, mace, bay leaf, cloves, pepper-corns, and allspice, and simmer one hour longer. Take out the knuckle, carefully remove the bones, and put the meat into a square mould. Boil the liquor until reduced to one quart; strain, add the vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, pour it over the meat, and stand it away over night to cool. When cold, turn it carefully out of the mould, garnish it with parsley and lemon, and it is ready to serve. RAGOUT OF VEAL No. 1 For this, the remains of a cold fricandeau or roast may be used, cut into pieces about one inch square. To every pint of these squares allow }4 pint of stock 1 tablespoonful of mushroom 1 tablespoonful of butter catsup 1 tablespoonful of flour 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry 1 tablespoonful of Wor- 1 tablespoonful of onion juice cestershire sauce 1 blade of mace 6 mushrooms, chopped fine 130 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Put the butter in a frying-pan, and stir until a nice brown; then add the flour, and brown again; then add the stock; stir until it boils, then add the mushrooms, mace, onion juice, mushroom catsup, sauce, salt to taste. Mix, and add the veal. Place over a very moderate fire to simmer for fifteen minutes; then take from the fire, add the wine (if you use it), garnish with boulettes of potatoes, and serve very hot. RAGOUT OF VEAL No. a Cut any pieces of cold roast veal into nice squares. To every pint of these squares allow i pint of stock 2 tablespoonfuls of butter y2 pint of mushrooms or 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 ounce of truffles 1 gill of Madeira, if you use 3 hard-boiled eggs wine Salt and pepper to taste Brown the butter, add the flour; mix; add the stock and half the wine, then the meat, and simmer for half an hour; then add the mushrooms or truffles chopped into small pieces, the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs, mashed; salt and pepper to taste; cook ten minutes longer. Take from the fire, add the remainder of the wine, and serve, garnished with sweetbread croquettes made into very small cylinders. This dish is fully worth its trouble. GALANTINE OF VEAL i breast of veal 1 pint of milk 1 knuckle of veal ^ teaspoonful of salt y box of gelatine 2 dashes of black pepper 2 cups of cold boiled ham, 2 dashes of cayenne chopped fine Yolks of three eggs 8 tablespoonfuls of dried 1 onion bread crumbs 2 bay leaves MEATS 131 i tablespoonful of chopped 3 cloves parsley i stalk of celery 1 teaspoonful of French i small carrot mustard i blade of mace Put the milk on to boil, add to it the bread crumbs; stir constantly until it thickens; then add the yolks, mustard, chopped parsley, cayenne and ham. Mix all together. Bone the breast, sprinkle it with salt and pepper. Now spread the mixture over the breast, roll it up and tie with twine; then wrap it in a piece of cheese-cloth and sew tightly. Put in the bottom of a soup kettle the bones from the breast, the knuckle of veal, three quarts of cold water, the onion, bay leaves, cloves, celery, carrot, and blade of mace. Place it over a moderate fire, and bring it slowly to a boil. As soon as it boils, skim carefully, add a tablespoonful of salt, and then put in the breast of veal; simmer for three hours, then take out the veal, remove the cloth, put it on a flat dish, and stand away to cool. Cover the gelatine with a half-cup of cold water, and let it soak one hour. Simmer the knuckle one hour longer after removing the veal, then add to it the gelatine strained through a sieve, and clarify the same as Bouillon. Season with salt and pepper, and put away to cool, but not harden. When cool, put a layer of the liquid in the bottom of a mould large enough to hold the veal, stand it on the ice, and, when hard, place the veal on top of it, and pour the remainder of the liquor in the mould. (There should be just enough to cover the veal.) Stand in a very cold place over night. When ready to serve, wipe the outside of the mould with a warm towel, place a meat dish over the top of the mould, turn it upside down, and remove the mould carefully, leaving the galantine in centre of dish. Garnish with parsley, and serve with sauce Tartare. 132 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK ITALIAN CHEESE i pound of veal 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped 1 y2 pounds of calf's liver parsley y2 pound of ham ^ box of gelatine 1 small onion 1 heaping teaspoonful of salt y2 teaspoonful of pow- % teaspoonful of black pepper dered sage A dash of cayenne Wash the liver, then cover with boiling water, let it stand five minutes, then take it from the water and dry on a towel. Chop the liver, the veal and the ham (all un- cooked) very fine; then add the sage, parsley, salt, black pepper, cayenne and the onion, grated. Mix well. Grease a plain mould well with butter; press the meat tightly into the mould, cover, and boil or steam three hours. When you remove the lid, you will find the meat has shrunk, leaving a half-inch of space partly filled with liquid. Care- fully drain this liquid off, put it in a saucepan over the fire, add to it the gelatine (which should have been covered with cold water and soaked a half-hour) and sufficient water to fill the space and cover the cheese. Stir until the gelatine is dissolved; add salt and pepper to taste, pour back into the mould around the cheese and stand away in a cold place. When cold, turn out of the mould; garnish with slices of lemon and parsley, and it is ready to serve. If properly made, the meat should be encased in a jelly. CALF'S HEAD CHEESE 1 calf's head 1 teaspoonful of sweet mar- 1 teaspoonful of salt joram 1 teaspoonful of summer 1 tablespoonful of chopped savory parsley % teaspoonful of pepper Clean the calf's head as directed in Dressed Calf's Head, simmer it, in hot water enough to cover, lor one and a half MEATS 133 hours, or until the meat leaves the bones. When done, take it out carefully, remove the bones, chop the meat and add the other ingredients. Have ready a small bag made from cheese-cloth, pack the mixture into it, tie the bag tightly and hang away to cool. When cold, turn the bag, wrong side out, off the meat, and it is ready for use. Serve cold, cut in thin slices. DRESSED CALF'S HEAD No. I i calf's head with the skin on i stalk of celery i quart of water 3 whole cloves 1 bay leaf 6 nice tomatoes, baked 1 onion Salt Have the butcher saw the top of the head, and take out the brains. Now wash the head well in cold water; cover with clean cold water, and soak one hour; then scald the nasal and throat passages with boiling water; wash again in cold water, and see that the throat is perfectly free from any foreign matter. Put it on to boil with the onion, bay leaf, celery, cloves, salt and water, simmer gently till tender— about three hours—skimming carefully at the first boil. Remove the fibre from the brains, then put them into a small saucepan, cover with boiling water, add one tea- spoonful of salt, and simmer gently for fifteen minutes; take them out, cut into small pieces with a silver knife, and stand aside until wanted. When the head is done, take it from the water, remove the tongue, skin and cut into slices. Cut the meat from the head carefully. Put it with tongue and brains in the centre of a heated meat- plate, and keep warm while preparing the sauce. #Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan to brown, add to it two even tablespoonfuls of flour; mix until smooth; then add one pint of the liquor in which the head was boiled, stir constantly until it boils, then add a tablespoonful of 134 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK mushroom catsup, a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, a half-teaspoonful of salt, two dashes of cayenne, and five mushrooms chopped fine. Simmer the whole one minute. Place the baked tomatoes around the calf's head, pour the sauce over the whole, and serve. The tomatoes may also be cut into slices and fried. If you use wine, add one tablespoonful of sherry to the sauce at serving time. DRESSED CALF'S HEAD No. a Saw the head into halves, lengthwise through the skull. Take out the brains, throw them into cold water for one hour. Take out the eyes and teeth. Wash and cleanse the same as directed in preceding recipe. Put it in a kettle, nearly cover with boiling water; place over a moderate fire, skim and simmer gently for one hour, then add one onion, one bay leaf, a sprig of parsley, four cloves and a blade of mace; simmer for a half-hour longer. While this is cooking, clean the brains, remove all the membrane, and parboil them for fifteen minutes, then put them away to cool. When cold, cut into thick slices, dip first in egg and then in bread crumbs, and stand one side until wanted. When the calf's head is done, take it out carefully, skin the tongue, brush the head over with beaten egg, then sprinkle with crumbs and chopped parsley. Brown in a quick oven. Plunge the brains into boiling fat just long enough to brown. Serve one-half of the head at a time, garnished with parsley, slices of lemon and the brains around the dish. Sheep's head may be served in the same way, and is very nice*. CALF'S BRAINS 1 tiny onion 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 clove MEATS 135 Use the brains left from the mock turtle. As soon as the head comes home, throw the brains into a bowl of ice-cold water, and let them stand one hour. Then remove the fine skin and blood-vessels that are all around them. Now put them in a small saucepan, cover with cold water, add the onion, bay leaf, salt, and clove, and simmer gently five minutes. Take from fire, drain, and put on ice to cool. When cold, cut in four nice pieces, dip first in egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Garnish with pars- ley and serve, with French peas around them. BRAISED LIVER i calf's liver i carrot i onion i bay leaf i stalk of celery i turnip 2 sprigs of parsley % pound of larding-pork i pint of stock or water i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of mush- i tablespoonful of Worces- room catsup tershire sauce i tablespoonful of flour Wash the liver, and lard it the same as fillet of beef. Wash and cut the vegetables into slices, and put them in the bot- tom of a braising-pan if you have one, if not, in a deep baking-pan; lay the liver on the bed of vegetables, add the stock or water, put a lid over the pan, and bake in a mod- erate oven for two hours. When done, dish the liver. Put the butter in a frying-pan, stir it over the fire until a nice brown, add the flour; mix and strain the liquor from the other pan into this, which should be about a half-pint. Stir continually until it boils, then add the Worcestershire sauce, and mushroom catsup. Pour over and around the liver, and serve. Beef's liver may be braised, but is never so nice as calf's liver. 136 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK STEWED LIVER i pound of calf's liver i pint of water i tablespoonful of flour Salt and pepper to taste y2 a small onion Cut the liver into slices, and again into pieces about two inches square. Put two tablespoonfuls of dripping in a frying-pan, add to it the flour, and stir until brown. Now add the water, stir constantly until it boils, pour it into a stewing-pan with the liver and onion, cover and simmer gently one hour; add the salt and pepper, and serve. LIVER AND BACON i pound of calf's liver /t pound of bacon y2 teaspoonful of salt i tablespoonful of flour A dash of black pepper Cut the liver into thin slices and scald it; wipe dry. Cut the bacon into as many thin slices as you have slices of liver. Put the bacon in a frying-pan and fry until brown, then take it out, put on a heated dish and keep it warm. Dust the liver with flour, salt and pepper, and fry it in the bacon-fat. When a nice brown, arrange it on the heated dish with a slice of bacon on each slice of liver. Add the flour to the fat remaining in the pan; mix, add a half-pint of boiling water, season with salt and pepper, pour it around the liver, and serve. LIVER AND ONIONS Fry the liver and bacon as in preceding recipe. Have ready onions, prepared the same as in beefsteak and onions, add them to the fat remaining in the pan, cook two minutes, and heap on top the liver and bacon. BROILED LIVER Cut the liver into slices and scald it. Then wipe it dry, season with salt and pepper, and broil over a clear fire, first MEATS 137 on one side and then on the other; it will take about five minutes. When done, spread lightly with butter, and serve on a heated dish. LIVER WITH BROWN SAUCE i pound of calf's liver 2 slices of bacon 1 tablespoonful of flour ^ pint boiling stock or water 1 tablespoonful of 1 tablespoonful of mush- Worcestershire sauce room catsup Salt to taste Cut the liver in slices, cover it with boiling water, and let it stand five minutes to draw out the blood. Now take it out and wipe it dry. Dredge with flour, salt and pepper. Try out the bacen in a frying-pan. Then put the liver into this hot bacon-fat, fry brown on one side, turn, and brown the other. Place it on a hot dish with the bacon, cut in small pieces. Now add the flour to the fat in the pan, and stir until a nice rich brown; add the boiling stock or water; stir again until it boils, now add the Worcester- shire sauce, mushroom catsup, and salt to taste. Pour it over the liver, and serve. LIVER ROLLS 1 pound of calf's liver % pound of bacon 1 small onion 1 bay leaf 1 sprig of parsley 1 tablespoonful of Worcester- 1 tablespoonful of mush- shire sauce room catsup 1 tablespoonful of flour y2 teaspoonful of salt Have the liver cut into thin slices. Cover with boiling water and let stand five minutes; take it out of the water and wipe dry. Cut the bacon into thin slices, and again into pieces about two inches long and one inch wide. Put one piece of the bacon on a slice of the liver, then roll it up and tie tightly with twine, and so continue, making one roll of each piece of liver. Dredge these thickly with flour. 138 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Put the remainder of the bacon in a frying-pan, and try out all the fat. Brown the rolls in this fat, and then put them in a stewing-pan. Add the flour to the fat remain- ing in the frying-pan, mix, and add one pint of water or stock; stir constantly until it boils, and pour it over the rolls; add the Worcestershire sauce, the mushroom catsup, a half-teaspoonful of salt, onion, bay leaf and parsley. Cover, and let simmer gently one hour. When done, dish the rolls, remove the strings. Strain the sauce over and around them. SWEETBREADS Calf's sweetbreads only should be used for food, and, as they spoil very quickly, they should be'thrown in cold water the moment they come from the market; after soak- ing one hour, trim them free from fat, lard or not, as you wish, put them into boiling water; add a teaspoonful of salt, stand them over a very moderate fire, and parboil fifteen minutes; then throw them into cold water for five minutes, remove carefully any skin or rough parts, and then put them in the coldest place you have until you are ready to cook them. In this way they will keep thirty or forty hours. Always parboil the sweetbreads in a porcelain or granite saucepan, and use a silver knife in cutting, as they contain a peculiar phosphoric acid that acts upon iron or tin, entirely destroying their flavor. BAKED SWEETBREADS AND PEAS No. I 2 pairs of sweetbreads Larding-pork i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour Y/t pint of milk i can of French peas Salt and pepper to taste Trim the fat from the sweetbreads and parboil fifteen min- utes. Now lard them with five lardoons each, put them in a small baking-pan, dredge them with salt, pepper, and ME A TS 139 flour, cover the bottom of the pan with stock or water, and bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Baste every ten minutes. When they are nearly done, put the butter in a frying-pan, add to it the flour (do not brown), and mix until smooth; add the milk, stir until it boils, then add the French peas drained free from all liquor. Stir again until they boil. Dish the sweetbreads in the centre of the dish with the peas around them. BAKED SWEETBREADS AND PEAS No. 2 Trim, lard and bake the sweetbreads as in the preceding recipe. Drain the liquor from a can of French peas, turn them into a small saucepan, add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, a half-teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper; heap in the centre of a heated dish, put the sweetbreads around, and serve very hot. SWEETBREADS FRIED Wash, trim, and parboil the sweetbreads fifteen minutes. Then cut them in nice pieces, dip them first into egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Serve with cream sauce. SWEETBREADS a la CREME i pair of sweetbreads 5 mushrooms 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour y~ pint of cream Parboil the sweetbreads as directed; pick them to pieces, rejecting all the fine membranes, then chop rather fine. Chop the mushrooms very fine. Put the butter on to melt, be careful not to brown; when melted, add the flour, mix until smooth; add the milk, stir constantly until it boils; add the mushrooms and sweetbreads, and stir over the steam of the teakettle for about five minutes, add a half- teaspoonful of salt and a dash of white pepper. Serve in silver shells or little paper cases. 140 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK SWEETBREADS a la BECHAMEL i pair of sweetbreads i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour i gill of white stock i gill of cream 6 mushrooms, chopped fine y2 teaspoon ful of salt 2 dashes of white pepper Yolks of two eggs Wash and parboil the sweetbreads as directed. Remove the fibrous skin and fat and pick into small pieces. Put the butter in saucepan to melt, do not brown; add the flour, mix until smooth, then add the stock and cream; stir continually until it boils, then add the mushrooms and sweetbreads; stir the whole over the steam of the teakettle and let stand there until wanted. When ready to serve them, take from the fire, add the yolks, well beaten, salt and pepper, and, if you use it, one tablespoonful of sherry, and serve in a small heated dish or individual paper cases. A calf's brain may be parboiled, mashed, and added to the sauce. Many think this a great improvement. SWEETBREADS BROILED Wash and parboil the sweetbreads, cut them in half, length- wise, and stand them away to cool; when ready to broil, season with salt and pepper, baste with melted butter. Broil over a clear fire for five minutes. Serve hot with a little melted butter poured over them. SWEETBREAD CUTLETS i pair of sweetbreads 1 gill of cream Yolks of two eggs 5 drops of onion juice teaspoonful of nutmeg % teaspoonful of white pepper i tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour i tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Trim and parboil the sweetbreads, chop them fine with a silver knife. Put the cream on to boil. Rub the butterand MEATS 141 flour together and stir into the cream when boiling; stir and cook until very thick. Take from the fire, add the yolks of the eggs, sweetbreads, and seasoning, salt to taste, and, if you like, two tablespoon fuls of chopped mushrooms; mix well, and turn out to cool. They should stand at least four hours in a cold place to form nicely. When cold, form into cutlets, dip first in egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Put a quilling of white paper in the small end of each cutlet, and serve with sauce Bechamel or cream sauce. SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES Make exactly the same as the preceding recipe, leaving out the yolks of the eggs, and forming into croquettes instead of cutlets. Serve with peas. SWEETBREADS au JUS 2 pairs of sweetbreads i tablespoon ful of butter i bay leaf i slice of onion 10 lardoons (strips of i clove larding-pork) i sprig of parsley i small head of cauliflower Trim and lard the sweetbreads, then parboil them. Put the butter in a frying-pan, add the onion, bay leaf, clove, parsley, and sweetbreads, the larded side up; cover the pan and stand it in a hot oven, basting with the butter, and baking for thirty minutes. In the mean time boil the cauliflower as directed in recipe for boiled cauliflower, break it apart in the little branches, and put it around a heated dish. Take the sweetbreads from the oven, add four tablespoonfuls of stock, boil up once. Dish the sweet- breads in the centre of the cauliflower, turn the gravy over them through a strainer, and serve. 142 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK PORK Pork is divided into leg, loin, chine, shoulder, spare-rib, middlings, head and feet. The best parts for roasting are the loin and leg. Pork in every form is unwholesome and indigestible, and should never be eaten by persons with weak digestion or by children, and should not be used by any one except in very cold weather. It should always be thoroughly cooked. To select: The lean must be fine-grained, and of a pale red color; the fat white, and the skin smooth and clear. If the flesh is soft, the fat a yellowish-white, and full of small kernels, reject it, as this is an indication of disease. SUCKING PIG (TO ROAST) TO PREPARE The pig should be four weeks old, and should be roasted the day after it is killed. In cities, pigs are usually sent from the butcher's prepared for the oven; but if it should be your lot to receive one in its crude state, we will give these few directions to follow. Wash the pig well in cold water, and let it remain in the water ten minutes. Have ready a large pan of boiling water, plunge it in, hold it by the nose and shake it vigorously about, until you can pull the hairs out easily. Take it out, rub it with a very coarse crash towel, rubbing from the tail to the head; then make a small opening in the belly, take out the entrails, and wash it thoroughly in cold water. Wipe it dry. Make a filling as follows:— i cup of stale bread crumbs i heaping tablespoonful of chopped suet i tablespoonful of chopped parsley MEATS 143 I teaspoonful of powdered sage i teaspoonful of salt % teaspoonful of black pepper i tablespoonful of onion juice Mix all the ingredients well together. Remove the hoofs at the first joint, leaving the skin long enough to pull over the bone. . If you are not ready to bake at once give it a cold pack,—i. e., roll it in a wet towel—and put it one side until wanted. When ready, put the stuffing in, sew the opening together, truss the fore legs forward, and the hind feet also forward, under and close to the body. Now wipe the pig carefully with a clean, soft, dry cloth, and place a stone or cob in the mouth to keep it open. Rub it with melted butter; dredge very lightly with flour, salt and pepper. Roast before a moderate fire, as it must be thoroughly done, or, if baked, the oven must be moderately hot. Baste it with a little salted hot water at first, and then with melted butter until there is sufficient dripping in the pan. Roast from two hours to two and a half. When the pig is about half done, brush it all over lightly with melted butter or pure olive oil. When done, place it on a dish with parsley all around; remove the stone or cob from the mouth, and put in its place a small red apple. Serve as hot as possible with apple sauce. THE GRAVY Brown the pan in which the pig was roasted, add to it two tablespoonfuls of flour, and brown again; add one pint of boiling water, let it boil up once, add salt and pepper to taste, take from the fire, add four tablespoonfuls of sherry, and serve in a boat. TO CARVE Cut off its head, separate it down the back in halves, remove the hams and shoulders, and separate the ribs. Sucking pig may also be stuffed with potato stuffing. MEATS 145 and dust it with a half-teaspoonful of powdered sage and a little black pepper. When done, serve and make a gravy the same as for roast leg of pork. Spare-rib may be stuffed with a stuffing made of bread or mashed potatoes, the ribs cracked crosswise the entire length in two places, the stuffing placed in the centre, the two ends folded over, and tied. Roast as above. Serve with tomato sauce. PORK CHOPS Put a tablespoonful of dripping in a frying-pan to heat. Dust the chops with salt, pepper and flour; fry in the hot dripping until a nice brown, and thoroughly done. It will take about twenty-five minutes. Dish. Pour nearly all the fat from the frying-pan into your dripping-pot, and to that remaining—which should be about a tablespoonful— add one tablespoonful of flour, and brown. Then add a half-pint of boiling water, let it boil up once, add salt and pepper to taste, and pour over the chops. Steaks and cutlets may be fried in the same manner. SOUSED PIG'S FEET Clean the feet and scrape them well. Soak them in cold water two or three hours, then wash and scrub well. Split the feet and crack in two or three places. Put them into a stewpan and just cover them with cold water; place over a moderate fire and simmer until tender. Boil together for one minute a half-pint of good cider vinegar, three blades of mace, one dozen whole cloves, and two bay leaves. Season the feet with salt and pepper, pour into an earthen basin, and add the spiced vinegar while hot; then stand in a cold place. It will be ready for use the next day. 14fi PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK PORK TENDERLOINS These are the tenderloins of the pork, torn out, and corre- spond with the fillet of beef. Two tenderloins will weigh about a pound and a quarter. Being solid meat, without a particle of waste, they are more economical, even at a higher price, than chops or steaks. They are best fried the same as pork chops. Before frying, split them lengthwise, making four pieces of the two tenderloins. PORK AND BEANS To every quart of the small white soup beans allow one pound of pickled pork. Soak the beans over night in cold water. In the morning wash them well in a colander. Put them on to boil in cold water; at the first boil, drain this water off and cover them with fresh boiling water. Score the rind of the pork and put it in with the beans; simmer gently until you can blow off the skin of the beans. To do this, take three or four beans in your hand, blow hard on them, and if the skin cracks they are done. When done, every bean should be perfectly whole. Take out the pork and drain. Put the beans into a bean-pot (an earthen pot or pipkin with acover), almost bury the pork in the centre of the beans. Add one teaspoonful of salt to one pint of the water in which the beans were boiled, pour this into the pot, sprinkle with pepper. Pour over the top of the beans one large spoonful of molasses, put on the lid, then bake in a very moderate oven for six or eight hours. If wanted for Sunday morning breakfast, put them in the oven on Satur- day night, and let them bake all night. Serve with Boston brown bread. They may be baked in an ordinary iron baking-pan, but in that case they should be covered with another pan or carefully watched, and baked only two hours. Bring them to the table in the pan in which they were baked. ME A TS 147 TO BOIL A HAM Wash the ham well in cold water. To do this thoroughly, you should use a small scrubbing-brush. Put it into a large boiler nearly filled with cold water, add a blade of mace, six cloves, and a bay leaf. Place it over a slow fire, that it may heat gradually. It should not come to boil for at least two hours. Then skim carefully, and simmer gently fifteen minutes to every pound, from the time it- begins to simmer. When done, allow it to cool in the liquor in which it was boiled. Then remove the rind carefully without cutting the fat. Brush it over with beaten egg, and sprinkle with dried bread crumbs; place in a quick oven for about fifteen minutes to brown. Serve it cold, garnished with parsley. Ornament the shank bone with a paper frill. OR, TO SERVE HOT Remove the skin as soon as it is done, and, while yet hot, brush it over with beaten egg, sprinkle with dried bread crumbs, and put in the oven to brown and crisp. When brown, dish; trim the shank bone with a frill of paper, garnish the edge of the dish with parsley and vegetable flowers, and serve with it asparagus, peas, or cauliflower. HAM BOILED IN CIDER Wash the ham as directed, cover it with cold water, and soak for twenty-four hours, then wipe dry. Put it in a porcelain-lined kettle, more than cover it with cider, and simmer gently fifteen minutes to every pound. When done, allow it to cool in the liquor in which it was boiled. When cold, remove the skin carefully, and with a dry cloth sop the fat to make it perfectly dry. Cut carrots and beets, that have been boiled tender, into fancy shapes, with vege- table cutters or a French knife, place them tastefully over the ham. Garnish with squares of aspic jelly, parsley, and olives. This is delicious. MEATS 149 BARBECUED HAM This is best done in a chafing-dish. Take one slice of cold boiled or baked ham, put it in your chafing-dish, season with pepper and a half-teaspoon- ful of French mustard; pour over it one teaspoonful of vinegar; heat quickly on one side, then turn and heat the other. Dust very lightly with powdered sugar, add four tablespoonfuls of sherry; boil up once, and serve on a heated dish. If you have no chafing-dish, this can be carefully done over the fire. HAM AND EGGS Fry the ham as directed in the recipe for Fried Ham ; when done, place on a heated dish; allow six eggs to every slice of ham, have them ready, and drop one by one, into the the hot fat. Stand over a moderate part of the fire until yolks are set. Cut the ham into six nice pieces, trim the rough edges from the eggs, lift them carefully with an egg- slice, and lay one upon each piece of ham. Dust lightly with salt and pepper, and serve very hot. HAM CROQUETTES 1 cup of finely-chopped cooked ham 2 cups of mashed potatoes Yolks of three eggs i tablespoonful of butter i dash of cayenne Mix with the hot mashed potatoes, the butter, yolks of two eggs, and the cayenne; beat until smooth; turn out to cool. Put the ham in a small frying-pan with the remain- ing yolk, and stir over the fire for about one minute; turn it out to cool. When cool, take a large tablespoonful of the potato and form it into a hollow in the palm of your hand; put into this hollow a large teaspoonful of the ham, 150 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK fold the potato over it, and form it into a ball, making a potato ball with a ham centre. Dip these in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. HAM BALLS y cup of cold cooked ham i gill of milk 2 tablespoonfuls of dried bread crumbs i tablespoonful of chopped parsley Yolks of two eggs i dash of cayenne ^ teaspoonful of salt 14 teaspoonful of nutmeg Chop the ham very fine. Put the milk on to boil, add to it the crumbs, stir until it thickens; add the yolks of the eggs, salt, cayenne, nutmeg, and ham; stir over the fire until thoroughly hot; then add the parsley. Mix, and turn out to cool. When cold, form into balls about the size of a walnut, dip in egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. These are used as a garnish to made dishes. This mixture, when turned out to cool, is a ham forcemeat. HAM SANDWICHES Cut the bread very thin, butter it lightly, put on it a good layer of finely-chopped cold boiled ham ; lay another piece of buttered bread on top, and press together gently. If the crust is at all hard, cut it off before putting in the ham. HAM AND EGGS SANDWICHES Mix the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs with one tablespoon- ful of French mustard to a smooth paste, then add one cup of finely-chopped cold boiled ham. Spread a good layer of this on a slice of buttered bread, cover with another slice, and press firmly together. MEATS 151 Or, spread a layer on one slice cut very thin, roll it up, and serve in a pile on a plate. Tongue sandwiches may be made by either of the preceding recipes, using cold boiled tongue instead of ham. BOILED BACON Bacon may be boiled the same as ham. FRIED BACON Cut it into very thin slices, put it in a frying-pan, and heat gradually for about two minutes; then fry until brown. Serve around a dish of fried potatoes. TO BOIL PICKLED PORK This is generally used boiled with sauer-kraut or cabbage, to give it flavor, a piece weighing two pounds being suffi- cient for one quart of sauer-kraut, or one head of cabbage. Boil two hours and a half. TO CURE HAMS AND SHOULDERS This should be done as soon as possible after the meat is cold, ioo pounds of meat 2 ounces of powdered saltpetre 4 pounds of fine salt 4 ounces of brown sugar Place the hams or shoulders on a board or table in the cellar, skin side down. Mix the salt, sugar and saltpetre well together; rub the hams well all over with this mixture, and put a little in the hock end around the bone. Rub until they will take no more. If there should be any left, rub them again in about one week. Allow them to remain on the board for sixteen days. Then hang them up to smoke, with the hock end upwards, in a cool, dark, smoke- house. Keep up a good smoke from hickory chips, smoth- ered with sawdust, during the day, for two or three days, when they will be fit for use. One or two small hams may be smoked under a barrel. 152 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK If you should want to keep the hams over until warm weather, our experience with the following method was very satisfactory. Examine the hams carefully, to see that the insects have not already deposited their eggs on the meat. Dust a little cayenne pepper around the bone, then wrap them closely in brown paper, then with coarse muslin to fit the ham exactly; stitch tightly. Now give them a coat of whitewash, and hang them away in a cool, dark, dry place. Beef's tongues may be cured in the same manner. This recipe has been in constant use in our own family for years, and we pronounce it perfect. TO PICKLE PORK To fifty pounds of pork allow two pounds and a half of brown sugar, two ounces of saltpetre, and sufficient salt to make a brine with about nine gallons of water; this de- pends upon the size of the vessel you pack it in. Mix the sugar and saltpetre with the water, and then gradually add the salt—which should be Liverpool—until the brine will float an egg. Pack the pork down in a half-barrel or tub, and pour the brine over it; skim off" carefully all scum that rises. Be sure that the pickle entirely covers the meat; if it does not, make more brine from salt and water, and add to it. Place a board on top of the pork, on which put a heavy stone to keep it down. Examine carefully from day to day for at least one week, skimming off whatever may float on the top. In two weeks it will be ready for use, and will keep one year. It may be necessary to make an en- tirely new pickle in about two months, throwing away the old one. Pork should be pickled twenty-four hours after killing. ME A TS 153 SAUSAGE 15 pounds of lean meat 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sage 5 pounds of fat meat 5 ounces of salt 2 ounces of pepper 2 ounces of allspice Chop the meat very fine; this is best done with an "En- terprise Meat Chopper;" it takes but a moment, and the meat is not bruised or mashed as in a grinding machine. Now mix all the ingredients well together. Have ready the "casings," stuff with the meat, tie them into lengths, and put them away in a cool, dry place. If you wish to keep them for a time, twist them around in the bottom of a stone jar or a pan, cover with hot melted lard, and stand away to cool. These will keep one or two months. TO CLEAN THE CASINGS OR INTESTINES OF THE HOG Empty them, turn them inside out and wash them well. Soak them in salt water for two days. Now wash them again, cut into convenient lengths, and scrape them on a board with a blunt knife, first on one side, then on the other; when you have them well and carefully scraped, wash again and tie up one end of each length, put a quill in the other end and blow them up; if they are whole and clear they are clean, but if any thick spots are seen they must be scraped again. Now throw them into clean, cold, salt water until wanted. There is a small machine called a "sausage stuffer," that is most convenient if you have large quantities of sau- sage to stuff. If you do not use the skin, simply pack the meat into small stone or earthen pots, cover with melted lard; when cold, protect the tops with heavy brown paper tied down tightly, and stand away in a cool place. 154 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK TO COOK IN THE SKINS Take the desired quantity, prick the skins here and there with a sharp fork (this prevents their bursting); place them in a frying-pan over a moderate fire, and fry in their own fat until a nice brown. When done, dish, add one table- spoonful of flour to the fat in the pan, mix, add one cup of milk, stir until it boils, pour over the sausage, and serve with buckwheat cakes. OUT OF THE SKINS Make into small cakes, dip into beaten egg and then into bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Or, make into small cakes, fry slowly in their own fat. Serve with cream gravy and buckwheat cakes as above. OXFORD SAUSAGE (Warne) i pound of lean veal i pound of young pork i pound of beef's suet ^ pound of bread crumbs Grated peel of half a lemon i nutmeg, grated 6 sage leaves, powdered i sprig of thyme i sprig of savory i sprig of marjoram Free the pork from skin and gristle, and chop it, the veal, and suet, all separately and as fine as possible; then mix together, add the grated bread crumbs, lemon peel, nutmeg, a teaspoonful of pepper, and two of salt, and the sage, thyme, savory and marjoram, all chopped as fine as you can; mix all thoroughly together, and press it down into a pre- pared skin. When you use them, fry them a fine brown in fresh butter. Serve as hot as possible. BOLOGNA SAUSAGE 6 pounds of lean beef 3 pounds of lean pork 1 pound of salt pork 1 pound of beef's suet 3 ounces of salt 1 ounce of white pepper 1 teaspoonful of cayenne 1 teaspoonful of ground mace 1 large onion, finely chopped MEATS 155 Chop the meat and suet separately very fine, then mix; add all the seasoning, and mix thoroughly. Fill into casings (in cities you can buy these already cleaned from your butcher), tie them into lengths, or you may use strong linen bags. Make a brine, from Liverpool salt and water, that will bear an egg; put the sausage into it, and let stand two weeks, turning, skimming, and watching carefully every day. At the end of the first week throw away the old, and make a new brine, then smoke for one week. If you have no smoke-house, this can be done under a barrel by simply building a smothered chip fire, hanging the sausages close to the head of the barrel, and standing the open end over the fire. When smoked, rub them over with olive oil, and hang them away in a cool, dry, dark place. If you wish to keep them for any time, sprinkle the outside with pepper. These may be either fried or boiled, served cold and cut in thin slices. SUMMER SAUSAGE 4 pounds of lean beef 2 pounds of lean veal 4 pounds of lean pork i pound of fat salt pork i pound of beef's suet ounce of powdered sage i grated nutmeg i chopped onion y2 teaspoonful of cayenne i teaspoonful of white pepper y2 teaspoonful of cloves, y2 teaspoonful of allspice, ground ground i teaspoonful of sweet i teaspoonful of thyme marjoram 4 tablespoon fuls of salt Chop the meat and suet separately, and then mix together; add all the other ingredients, and mix well. Pack into small strong muslin bags, making a sausage about the size of the large bolognas, and tie tightly. Place them in a kettle of boiling water and simmer gently for one and a half hours. Take them out and place them in the sun, on a clean towel, to dry. Then hang them in a cool place 156 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK until next day. Dip them in melted lard, covering them all over, dust lightly with black pepper, and hang in a cold, dark, dry place until wanted. These will keep all summer. When wanted for use, draw the bag off wrong side out, and cut the sausage in thin slices. BREAKFAST SAUSAGE To those who are fond of a good breakfast sausage, and do not care to use that prepared by the butchers, I give the following recipe which is simple and as easily made as the ordinary Hamburg steaks:— 2 pounds of lean pork i teaspoon ful of powdered sage leaves i teaspoonful of salt i saltspoon of black peppei Chop the meat very fine (an "Enterprise No. 10 chopper" does this quickly and neatly), add to it the salt, pepper, and sage; mix thoroughly, and form into small cakes. Put an even tablespoonful of dripping in a frying-pan, and when hot cover the bottom of the pan with the sausage cakes; fry until nicely browned on one side, then turn and brown the other. Serve plain or with cream sauce. ONION JUICE FOR MEAT DISHES Take the outside skin from a large onion, and then trim off the bottom. Press the onion firmly against a large grater and quickly draw it up and down allowing the juice to drop from one corner of the grater. WHAT TO SAVE AND HOW TO USE IT "Waste not, want not" Save all broken pieces and crusts of bread not fit for toast; put them in a pan and dry (not brown) in a cool oven; better leave the door open or you may forget them. When thoroughly dry, roll them on an old bread board, sift them through a rather coarse sieve; the crumbs that easily pass through put in a box or jar, the ones remaining in the sieve turn out and roll over again and sift as before. These will be found very useful and much better than cracker crumbs for dipping croquettes, oysters, etc. Pieces of stale bread may also be saved for bread cakes, queen pudding, or bread muffins. Muffins left from breakfast may be split into halves and toasted for luncheon. Broken pieces of buns and stale cake make delightful cabinet pudding, and are just the things for "general satis- faction." Here also you may use the small saucer of pre- serves left from tea. There is nothing better for panada than stale rusks toasted. (157) 158 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK All cold mashed potatoes should be saved for cro- quettes or potato puff. One cupful will make six croquettes. Cold boiled potatoes make excellent French fried or Lyonnaise potatoes. All small pieces of plain or puff paste, trimmed from your pies or patties, may be used for cheese fingers or with the small piece of steak left from breakfast made into rissoles, and you will have an inexpensive but nice entree for luncheon. The unbaked portion of puff paste taken from the centre of patties, dried and rolled, furnish a richer and better covering for scallops, devils, etc., than the dried bread crumbs. If you are going to have celery for dinner, the green part of the stalks is not pretty in the glass nor crisp to eat, but is just the thing for stews, or flavoring for soups. The roots, when boiled, make an excellent salad. The turnip left from yesterday will be just enough for to-day's soup, and will save the time of preparing and cooking another. Save every bone—whether beef, mutton, veal, ham, poultry or game—as well as all juices left, for the stock - pot. Into this goes the long end of the rib roast, which would only become tasteless and dry if put in the oven; also the fat ends of your French mutton chops. This pot is a store-house of wealth, not only for ordinary soup, 01 puree, but to use instead of water for sauces and gravies. The fat which you skim from the surface of this stock, every piece of suet from chops and steaks; in fact, all kinds'of fat, should be saved, tried out, clarified, and then strained into your dripping-pot. If you do this religiously, even in a large family, you will have to buy very little or no lard for general frying. Doughnuts and fritters are much better fried in dripping than in lard, as they do not absorb so much of it. WHAT TO SAVE 159 The coarse, tough and unprepossessing tops of the sirloin steaks, and the tough ends of the rumps, which cannot possibly be eaten when broiled, make most excel- lent, tender Hamburg steaks. If you are fond of these, and have much chopping to do, an "Enterprise" chopper soon pays for itself, as it saves time and chops uncooked meats. Pressed Meat No. i (see Index) is made from the soup meat; remember, it is rather tasteless unless nicely sea- soned. Cecils are appetizing for breakfast or luncheon, and, unless wantonly suggested by you, it will never enter into the masculine intellect to suspect them of being the rem- nants of yesterday's roast. Cold mutton is better made over into pilaff, hash on toast with tomato sauce, and scallop, than when first served. Beef a la mode makes the very best of rag6uts, and the pieces of game left from dinner are just the thing for a salmi, and there also is a chance to use some of the olives that were opened yesterday and will mould in a day or two if not used. Cold roast and boiled chicken or turkey may be made into croquettes, a la Bechamel, or a l'ltalienne; and, if nicely served, would never suggest warmed-over meats. A cup of cold, boiled rice added to griddle-cakes, muffins or waffles, makes them lighter and more easily digested. The water in which fresh tongue, mutton or chicken' is boiled, may be used for soup or added to the stock-pot. After you have used all the ham that will cut nicely from the bone, and after chipping the remaining tender meat for frizzled ham, boil the bone with cabbage. Being free from fat, it flavors the cabbage nicely without making it greasy. 160 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Whites of eggs, saved one or two at a time and kept in a cold place, may be used for angels' food, corn-starch cake, or apple snow; the yolks for salad dressing, gravies or soups. Cold boiled, baked or broiled fish may be used for cro- quettes a la crSme or salad. In fact, waste nothing, as many things may be re- dressed in a different way, and thus improve the appearance of your table without increasing the expense. ADDITIONAL RECIPES PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK ADDITIONAL RECIPES POULTRY AND GAME POULTRY In some markets poultry is bought ready dressed from the poulterer; in others, picked but not drawn; in others, again, alive. In case you should meet with the latter, the best and quickest way of killing is by cutting the throat or tongue. Some cut the head entirely off. In either way they should be hung up by the feet without delay, as they then die much sooner, and bleed more freely. Begin at once to pick them, taking a few feathers at a time, and giving them a quick jerk toward the tail. If you pull backward, it is apt to tear the skin. Do not scald them, as young chickens are completely spoiled by being thus blanched. It does not injure older ones so much if they are to be used immediately. After you have picked them, 5inge, by taking hold of the head and feet and passing them over the gas or blazing paper, backward and forward, turn- ing them on both sides, being careful not to burn the skin. TO CLEAN Cut off the head and feet at the first joint, split the skin on the back of the neck, then detach the skin from the neck and draw it down over the breast, and take out the crop without breaking it. Now, cut the neck off close to the (165) 166 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK body. The skin is then left to cover the place where the neck was cut off. Turn the chicken around, make a vent under the rump large enough to draw the chicken easily. Take out all the internal organs—the heart, liver, gizzard, lungs, entrails, and eggs, if there are any, being very care- ful not to break the gall-bag or entrails, as the contents of either would render the fowl uneatable unless thoroughly washed. And I will say, right here, never wash or soak poultry or game unless you have broken something; then do it as quickly as possible, and wipe dry immediately. I cannot speak too strongly against this abominable practice. It may be, however, thoroughly washed before it is drawn, and if this operation be done as directed, will not require another bath. I was often puzzled to know why our so- called good cook books should recommend, "soak to draw out the blood" (and, of course, the flavor and nourish- ment at the same time), "and throw this water away," and perhaps on the next page will be found a recipe for beef tea, which will read: "Soak in cold water to draw out the nourishment, throw away the meat and save the water." This rule applies equally well to all meats. I wonder no longer after seeing the usual way of drawing poultry. In going from one house to another, giving private lessons to ladies in their own kitchens, I have more than once been shocked and almost sickened at the way in which this operation was performed. They first made a gash in the fowl large enough to insert the whole hand, at the same time cutting the intestines and—dragging them one piece at a time—had the whole chicken, their hand and arm covered with filth. Washing can never restore to a chicken thus drawn, its flavor. I would recommend it being thrown away at once, saving your digestive organs the trouble of digesting that from which you do not receive full nourishment. POULTRY AND GAME 167 After drawing properly, wipe inside and out with a damp towel, remove the oil-sack from the top of the rump, and it is ready to use. TO CLEAN THE GIBLETS Cut the liver away from the gall-bag, being careful not to break it. Cut the heart open, and remove the clotted blood. Cut the outer coat of the gizzard, and draw it off, leaving the inner lining, containing the sand, unbroken. Wash thoroughly, and they are ready to use. The giblets consist of the liver, heart, gizzard, and neck. Turkeys, geese, ducks, pigeons, pheasants, and all birds, are cleaned in the same manner. TO SELECT A CHICKEN Buy a chicken with firm flesh, yellow skin and legs. If young, the cock will have small spurs, and both cock and hen will have soft, smooth legs and tender skin; the lower part of the breast bone will be cartilage, soft and pliable. If old, the opposites. Poultry full grown have the best flavor, and are good for roasting, fricassees, and stewing. Older ones make good soup or may be served boiled. Spring chickens should only be broiled or fried. Be sure that they are fresh, and free from any unpleasant odor. They should be drawn as soon as possible after they are killed, and hung away in a cool, dry place for at least twenty-four hours before cooking. If cooked as soon as killed, they are hard and tough. If frozen, they should be placed in a warm room to thaw several hours before they are wanted. ROAST CHICKEN WITH GIBLET SAUCE Procure a nice chicken one year old. Singe and clean as directed. Make a stuffing from one large cupful of stale bread 168 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK crumbs, one tablespoonful.of melted butter, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste. Fill the space from which you took the crop, sew up the slit in the skin, fold it over and fasten it on the back of the chicken with a small skewer; put the remainder of the stuffing in the body of the chicken ; do not pack it or the dressing will be heavy. Sew- up the vent, place the chicken on a table tvith the breast up and the rump towards you; push the legs up under the skin, cross them and fasten with a small skewer to the bone of the rump. Turn the wings back, run another small skewer through them and the body of the chicken. Now tie the legs together, wrap the twine around the end of the skewer and bring it up the back, wrap it around the ends of the wing skewer, and tie tightly. Put two slices of bacon in the bottom of a baking-pan, lay the chicken on them, cover the bottom of the pan with water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and bake in a quick oven fifteen minutes to every pound. Baste every ten minutes, first with the water, and afterwards with its own dripping. Fifteen minutes before the chicken is done, baste the breast of the chicken with melted butter, dredge thickly with flour, and put back in the oven to brown. When done, remove first the strings then the skewers, place on a hot dish and garnish with par- sley. TO MAKE THE SAUCE Put the giblets in a saucepan and cover with cold water, place on a moderate fire and let simmer as long as the chicken roasts. Then cut them fine. Add one tablespoon- ful of flour to the pan in which the chicken was roasted, stir over the fire until a nice brown, then add a half-pint of the liquor in which the giblets were boiled, stir con- stantly until it boils; now add the chopped giblets, season to taste, and serve in a boat. POULTRY AND GAME 169 CHICKEN LARDED AND ROASTED Draw and clean as directed. Tie the legs and wings the same as for Roast Chicken. Lard the breast with small lardoons about an inch apart, making two rows on each side. Place the chicken in a baking-pan, put a tablespoon- ful of butter and a half-teaspoonful of salt in the pan, place in a quick oven, and baste every ten minutes. Roast fifteen minutes to every pound if the chicken is young. Serve with brown sauce. CHICKEN STUFFED WITH CHESTNUTS Draw and clean the chicken as directed. Roast one quart of large chestnuts; when done, remove the shells and mash. Put one-half the chestnuts in a bowl, add a table- spoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper, mix and fill the chicken the same as with bread crumbs. Lard the breast thickly with salt pork; place the chicken in a baking-pan, add a half-cup of water and a half-teaspoonful of salt; roast in a quick oven fifteen minutes to each pound, basting every ten minutes. When done, dish, remove the strings and skewers, garnish with parsley. Put the remaining chestnuts in the pan in which the chicken was roasted, mix well, add a half-pint of stock, stir until it boils, add salt and pepper to taste, and serve in a boat. Chickens may also be stuffed with oyster or potato stuffing. BOILED CHICKEN For boiling, select a chicken over a year old, middling fat, and with dark yellow skin. Clean, stuff and truss the same as for roasting. Dredge it thickly with flour, put it in a pot with just water enough to cover, add a quarter-cup of washed rice. Cover the pot closely, and put it over a 170 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK moderate fire to simmer until the chicken is very tender— about two hours if the chicken is old. When done, remove the strings and skewers, serve with egg or oyster sauce. The water in which the chicken was boiled may be used for soup. TO BRAISE A CHICKEN i young chicken y2 small carrot i onion i pint of stock i sprig of parsley 4 cloves 1 bay leaf 12 mushrooms 1 gill of sherry, if you use wine Draw and singe the chicken as directed. Truss it without filling. Place the carrot and onion sliced in the bottom of a baking or braising-pan, add the cloves and parsley, and place the chicken on top; add the stock, a teaspoonful of salt and a little black pepper; cover the pan, and place in a quick oven for one and a half hours, basting every fifteen minutes. Then dish the fowl. Put a tablespoonful of but- ter in a frying-pan, let it melt and brown; then add a tablespoonful of flour, mix, add the liquor from the pan in which the chicken was braised, and then the mushrooms, chopped fine. Stir continually until it boils. Take it from the fire, season to taste, add the wine if used, and pour it around the chicken. SMOTHERED CHICKEN Singe a young chicken and split it down the back. Take out the intestines. Wipe it with a damp towel. Lay the the chicken, with inside downwards, in a baking-pan, breaking the breast-bone to make it lie flat. Spread the breast with a quarter-pound of butter, dredge with pepper. Put a teaspoonful of salt and a half-cup of water in the bottom of the baking-pan, place it in a hot oven, cover with another pan, let it bake for half an hour, basting every POULTRY AND GAME 171 ten minutes. Now remove the upper pan, turn the chicken, baste it well on the inside, cover again, and bake for another half-hour. When done, place it on a hot dish; put the pan in which the chicken was cooked on top of the fire to brown, add one tablespoonful of flour, and stir until smooth and brown, then add a half-pint of milk, and stir constantly until it boils. Taste to see if properly seasoned; if not, add salt and pepper. Serve in a boat. A BROWN FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN Draw and singe the chicken as directed. Cut it into eleven pieces. First take off the legs with second joints, then separate the second joints from the leg, making four pieces; take off the wings. Now cut through the ribs on either side, unjoint the back and breast, cut the breast in half lengthwise, making two nice pieces; unjoint the back, and make two pieces of lower back. Place a quarter-pound of salt pork or two ounces of butter in a saucepan ; when a nice brown, put in the chicken. Stir until every piece is nicely browned, then add two tablespoonfuls of flour; stir again, add one pint of boiling water or stock, stir until it boils; add a teaspoonful of salt. Cover, and let simmer gently until tender, then add a teaspoonful of onion juice, and a little black pepper. Dish. Put the neck-piece, heart, liver, gizzard, and the back pieces in the centre of the dish; put the two pieces of breast on top, the second joints on one side of the plate, the legs crossed on the other, and a wing at each end of the plate. Pour the sauce over, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve. A WHITE FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN Clean and cut the same as for a Brown Fricassee. Clean the giblets. Now put the whole in a stewing-pan, partly 172 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK cover with boiling water, set over a moderate fire, and sim- mer until tender (about an hour and a quarter if the chicken is young). When the chicken is done, there should be no water left; if there is, remove the lid, and-allow it to evapo- rate quickly. Dish the chicken same as before. Put one large tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan; and when melted, add two tablespoonfuls of flour; mix well, but do not brown. Now add one pint of milk, turn the whole into the stewpan in which the chicken was boiled, and stir con- tinually until it boils; add salt and pepper to taste, take it from the fire, add the beaten yolks of two eggs, pour it over the chicken, sprinkle with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and serve with rice croquettes. Do not boil after adding the eggs, or the sauce will curdle. STEWED CHICKEN Clean and cut the chicken as for Brown Fricassee. Put it in a stewpan, partly cover with boiling water, and simmer gently until tender (a young chicken about an hour and a quarter, an old one two hours to two and a half). When about half done, add a teaspoonful of salt. When the chicken is done, dish it as directed for a fricassee. Moisten two tablespoonfuls of flour with a little cold water, stir it into the liquor in which the chicken was boiled; then stir continually until it boils, add salt and pepper to taste and a half-cup of good cream. Take it from the fire, add the beaten yolk of an egg, pour it over the chicken, and serve. CHICKEN au SUPREME This is a white fricassee made from the breasts of chickens only. Take a pair of chickens, clean as directed; detach the flesh from each side of the breast bone carefully in two long pieces, called fillets. In two chickens you will have POULTRY AND GAME 173 four pieces. Cut the remainder of the chicken as you would for a fricassee, put it in a saucepan and nearly cover with cold water; add one small onion, sliced, one bay leaf, four cloves, and a blade of mace. Cover, and bring slowly to a boil. Now place the fillets carefully over the top of this, and simmer gently until tender (about one hour), sprinkling them with salt, when half done. When done, dish the fillets tastefully, and stand in a warm place while you make the sauce. THE SAUCE Put one large tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan to melt, then add one tablespoonful of flour. Mix until smooth; add a half-pint of the liquor in which the chickens were cooked, stir continually until it boils, then add salt and pepper to taste, and take from the fire; add one table- spoonful of cream, the yolks of two eggs, and a tablespoon- ful of chopped parsley. Pour over the fillets, and serve. This may be served plain, with truffles, mushrooms, or a border of rice. The dark meat may be used for croquettes, cecils, Italian chicken, or chicken terrapin. CHICKEN a la MARENGO Clean and cut up a young chicken as for fricassee. Put two tablespoonfuls of olive oil in a frying-pan and place it over a good fire; when hot, put in the chicken, and turn and cook until every piece is nicely browned, then add a sprig of parsley, a bay leaf, one slice of onion, a half-teaspoon - ful of salt, a quarter-teaspoonful of black pepper, and five mushrooms chopped fine. Stand over a more moderate heat, and cook slowly until tender (about three quarters of an hour). Dish, and serve with cream sauce. 174 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK PILAFF OF CHICKEN i four-pound chicken y2 cup of rice i teaspoon ful of salt Clean and cut the chicken the same as for a fricassee. Put it in a stewpan, half cover it with boiling water, and set it on a moderate fire to simmer. Now wash the rice, add it to the chicken, also the salt, and let all simmer until the chicken is tender. Make a tomato sauce. Dish the chicken and rice together, and pour over it the tomato sauce. This dish is very nice made from cold pieces of chicken or mutton. You may also use macaroni instead of rice. BRUNSWICK STEW (Mrs. Cobb, of Richmond, Va.) i chicken (four pounds) i quart of tomatoes 4 medium-sized potatoes i pint of very tender Lima i pint of grated corn beans y2 pound of lean ham i large onion i tablespoonful of chopped % pound of butter parsley 3 quarts of boiling water Salt, cayenne and black pepper to taste Draw, singe, and cut up the chicken as for a fricassee. Put it in a large saucepan with the boiling water, the onion sliced and ham cut into dice. Cover the saucepan and simmer gently for one and a half hours. Then add the salt, the tomatoes peeled and sliced, the potatoes pared and cut into quarters, the corn, beans, parsley, cayenne and black pepper. Cover again and simmer one hour longer; then add the butter cut into bits and rolled in flour; stir five minutes over the fire, and serve. Great care must be taken or the stew will scorch. Keep it over a very moderate fire, and stir frequently from the bottom of the saucepan. POULTRY AND GAME 175 This stew, if carefully prepared, is most delicious. It may be made in winter from the canned vegetables; but, of course, is not so good. CURRY OF CHICKEN Clean and cut the chicken the same as for a fricassee. Put two ounces of butter into a frying-pan. Cut one small onion into slices, add it, with the chicken, to the butter, and fry until a golden brown; then skim the chicken out of the pan, carefully put it in a stewing-pan and partly cover with boiling water, add a half-teaspoonful of salt, and simmer gently until the chicken is tender (about one hour). When done, add to it a teaspoon ful of sugar and the juice of half a lemon. Mix one even tablespoonful of curry powder and one of flour, with a little cold water, to a smooth paste, and add it to the chicken. Stir continually until it boils. Serve with boiled rice heaped around it; or, a teaspoonful of curry powder may be added to a white fricassee or a plain stew. FRIED CHICKEN Clean and cut the chicken the same as for a fricassee. Dredge each piece thickly with salt, pepper and flour. Put three tablespoonfuls of oil or lard in a frying-pan; and when very hot, put in the chicken, and fry slowly until it is done. If young (as it should be), it will fry in three-quarters of an hour. Watch it carefully that it may not burn. When done, arrange the pieces on a hot dish. Pour all the fat, but about one tablespoonful, from the frying-pan; then add a tablespoonful of flour, mix and add a half-pint of milk or cream, stir, season with salt and pepper, and pour over the chicken. 176 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK SPRING CHICKENS (TO BROIL) Singe, take off the head and feet, and split the chicken down the back; take out the internals, wipe the chicken, inside and out; with a mallet break the breast-bone. Dust the chicken on the inside with salt and peppery place it on a broiler with inside downward or next to the fire. Broil over a slow fire three-quarters of an hour, keeping a plate turned over it all the time. Just before it is done, turn it and brown the skin side. When done, place on a heated dish, baste with melted butter, and season with salt and pepper. Spring chickens may also be fried or smothered. CHICKEN a la TARTARE Take a spring chicken, split it down the back as directed. Place it in a baking-pan, spread it thickly with butter, dust with salt and pepper, sprinkle with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and the same of chopped onion. Cover the pan, place in a quick oven for three-quarters of an hour. Then take it from the pan, brush it over with beaten egg, strew with bread crumbs, and broil over a gentle fire until a nice brown. Serve with sauce Tartare. CHICKEN CHOPS FOR THE FORCEMEAT White meat of one chicken i gill of milk i gill of bread crumbs' i tablespoonful of chopped Yolk of one egg parsley Salt and pepper FOR THE CHOPS . Dark meat of one chicken i onion i bay leaf y2 box of gelatine Yolk of one egg 2 large tablespoonfuls of 1 tablespoonful of butter flour Salt and cayenne POULTRY AND GAME 177 Put the dark meat in a saucepan, just cover it with boiling water, add the onion and bay leaf, and let it simmer slowly until the chicken is tender (about one hour). Cover the gelatine with a half-cup of cold water, and let it soak while the chicken is stewing. As soon as the chicken is tender, take the meat from the bones and chop it very fine. Put the butter into a frying-pan; and, when melted, add the flour, mix until smooth, and then add a half-pint of the liquor in which the chicken was boiled; stir constantly until it boils and thickens, then add the gelatine, the yolk of the egg, salt and cayenne to taste; mix well, and turn into a shallow pan, having the mixture about a half-inch thick. Stand away on the ice to harden. Now prepare the forcemeat. Chop the uncooked white meat of the chicken very fine. Put the milk on to boil, add to it the crumbs, stir until it thickens; add to it the chopped chicken, parsley, a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of cayenne. Mix all well together, take from the fire, add the" yolk of the egg, and turn out to cool. When the chop mixture is cold, cut it into chop-shaped pieces with a knife; cut as closely as possible, wasting none of the mixture. Lift each chop carefully from the pan, and cover every part with a thin layer of the forcemeat. Stand them on the ice for fifteen minutes, then dip them in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry them in boil- ing oil or fat. Serve with cream sauce. CHICKEN CUTLETS Draw and singe a young chicken as directed. Cut the skin and draw it entirely off of the breast. Take off the wings at the second or middle joint, not the one nearest the body. Now run a sharp knife along the breast-bone, removing one- half the breast in one solid piece with the first joint of the 178 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK wing, thus making a chop or cutlet of one-half the breast with the first joint of the wing bone as a handle. Remove the other side in the same way. One chicken will only make two cutlets. The dark meat may be used for croquettes or other dishes. Put the dark meat in a stewpan and nearly cover with boiling water; add a small onion, a bay leaf, four cloves and a sprig of parsley; place the cutlets in good shape on top of this, cover, and let simmer gently until tender— this can be told by piercing with a fork. When done, take out the cutlets, dust them with salt and pepper, and baste with a tablespoonful of melted butter. Stand the dark meat away until wanted. I^et the cutlets stand until cold, or until you are ready to use them. Then dip them first in egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat until a golden brown. Trim the bones with a frill of paper, arrange the cutlets around the outside of a meat dish, fill the centre with cream sauce, and serve. CHICKEN CROQUETTES i four-pound chicken i pair of sweetbreads i small onion 4 whole cloves 1 bay leaf 1 sprig of parsley Clean and singe the chicken as directed. Put it on to cook in boiling water; add the onion, bay leaf, cloves and par- sley. Cover and simmer gently until the meat is very ten- der. While this is cooking, prepare the sweetbreads. Trim all the fat and pipes off, wash well in cold water, and soak for fifteen minutes; drain, cover with boiling water, add one teaspoonful of salt, and stand over a very moderate fire for twenty minutes. Do not boil, as it makes them very tough. When done, throw them into cold water for a few minutes, remove the fibrous skin from the outside, and chop the sweetbreads fine with a silver knife. A steel knife spoils the flavor on account of the acid they contain. As POULTRY AND GAME 179 soon as the chicken is done, remove the skin and bones, put them back in the kettle to simmer longer, add salt, and the liquor may be used for soup. Chop the meat very fine, then mix it with the sweetbreads, and to every pint of this meat allow y2 pint of milk or cream i large tablespoonful of butter 2 large tablespoonfuls of flour i large tablespoonful of chopped parsley i teaspoonful of onion juice i teaspoonful of salt J^ teaspoonful of nutmeg, grated Cayenne and pepper to taste Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Rub the butter and flour to a smooth paste, then stir it into the boiling milk, and stir continually until it is very thick; take it from the fire, add the meat, and beat until thoroughly mixed; add the seasonings, tasting to see if enough salt and pepper; then turn out on a large plate to cool. When cold and hard, form into cone-shaped croquettes. (There are moulds that come for this purpose.) Dip first in egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling oil or fat. Serve at once with a small sprig of parsley in the top of each croquette. To warm over, place them on soft paper and stand them in the oven for a few moments. Cold roast chicken or turkey may be made into croquettes; you may also use calf's brains instead of sweetbreads, prepared in the same manner. Where the family is small, the white meat of the chicken may be used for salad, and the dark for croquettes. With a pair of sweetbreads, a four-pound chicken will make a quart of nice soup, nine croquettes, and one and a half pints of chicken salad; using all the meat, you make thir- teen croquettes. ISO PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK CHICKEN CECILS Chicken Cecils may be made the same as Meat Cecils, using chicken instead of beef or mutton. CHICKEN TERRAPIN Boil the chicken the same as for Chicken Croquettes, and cut it into dice. To every quart of the cut meat allow 3 hard-boiled eggs % pound of butter ]4, teaspoonful of ground ^ cup of cream mace yi teaspoonful of ground i tablespoonful of flour cloves i gill of sherry Salt and cayenne to taste Put the chicken in a saucepan. Rub the butter and flour together, add it to the chicken, then add the seasoning and cream. Stand over a very moderate fire until thoroughly heated. Chop the whites of the eggs very, very fine, then add them to the chicken. Mash the yolks of the eggs, with two or three tablespoonfuls of cream to a smooth paste, then add to the chicken and stir the whole over the fire until it comes to the boiling point; add the wine, and serve immediately. More or less wine may be added according to taste. Calf's liver, after parboiling for fifteen minutes, is delicious dressed in this same manner. BOUDINS a la REINE i pint of cold cooked chicken, chopped fine i tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of dried bread crumbs y2 cup of stock or boiling water 2 eggs y£ nutmeg, grated i tablespoonful of chopped parsley Salt and pepper to taste Put the butter in a frying-pan to melt, add to it the bread POULTRY AND GAME 181 crumbs and stock; stir until it boils. Take from the fire, and add the chicken, parsley, nutmeg, salt and pepper, and then the eggs slightly beaten; mix thoroughly. Now fill tea or custard cups two-thirds full with this mixture, stand in a baking-pan half filled with boiling water, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. When done, turn them out carefully on a heated dish, and pour around them cecil sauce. Remains of cold roast or boiled turkey may be used in the same way. CHICKEN a 1'ITALIENNE Cold roast or boiled chicken may be used for this dish. If a chicken is cooked specially, boil as directed for chicken croquettes. Cut the meat into dice, and to every pint of meat allow i tablespoon ful of butter i tablespoon ful of flour 12 drops of onion juice 3 hard-boiled eggs i gill of cream or milk i gill of stock Salt and pepper to taste Put the butter in a frying-pan to melt, add to it the flour, and stir until thoroughly mixed; then add the stock and cream; stir again until it boils. Take from the fire, add the chicken and seasoning. Mix carefully, and stand it over boiling water until thoroughly heated. Take from the fire, and dish. Press the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs through the "Hennis Vegetable Press," or through a fine sieve, and sprinkle them lightly over the top, and it is ready to serve. This may also be served in individual dishes or in paper cases. 182 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK CHICKEN a la BECHAMEL i pint of cold chicken, 2 tablespoonfuls of white cut into dice stock 1 tablespoonful of butter 6 mushrooms, chopped fine 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 sweetbread y2 pint of cream or milk Salt and pepper to taste Clean and parboil the sweetbread for twenty minutes as directed. Pick it to pieces, rejecting all the fibrous skin, and mix with the chicken. Put the butter in a frying-pan to melt, being careful not to brown it; when melted, add the flour and mix well, then add the cream or milk and stock; stir continually until it boils; add the chicken, sweet- bread, and mushrooms, salt and pepper; stir carefully until thoroughly heated, and serve either in individual dishes or paper cases. DEVILED CHICKEN Chop very fine any pieces of cold cooked chicken that may be left. To every pint of this meat allow y2 pint of cream 3 hard-boiled eggs 1 tablespooonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of bread 1 tablespoonful of chopped crumbs parsley ^ nutmeg, grated Salt and cayenne to taste Put the butter in a frying-pan to melt, then add the bread crumbs, cream, chicken, and seasoning; stir over the fire until it boils; then add the hard-boiled eggs chopped very fine. Fill paper cases or individual dishes with this mix- ture, sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs, and brown in a quick oven. CHAUD FROID OF CHICKEN 1 cold roast chicken 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour y2 pint of milk or cream Salt and pepper to taste Strip the skin carefully from the chicken, and cut the meat into nice pieces, about an inch and a half long and an inch POULTRY AND GAME 183 wide. Now put the butter in a frying-pan to melt, add to it the flour; mix until smooth; add the milk or cream, stir continually until it boils and thickens; add salt and pepper. Into this sauce dip each piece of chicken, and place the pieces on a dish, one not touching the other. Stand away until very cold. When cold, arrange the pieces nicely on a dish, sprinkle them with a little parsley chopped very fine, garnish with aspic jelly and parsley, and serve. BLANQUETTE OF CHICKEN A blanquette may be made from any cold cooked chicken or veal, cut into pieces about half an inch square. To every pint of these pieces allow i gill of stock or water i tablespoonful of butter i gill of milk or, better, i tablespoonful of flour cream Yolks of two eggs Salt and pepper to taste Put the butter in a frying-pan to melt (do not brown); thi n add the flour; mix until smooth; add the stock, cream, salt, and pepper; stir continually until it boils; then add the meat, and stand over a very moderate fire until hot. Take from the fire, add the yolks well beaten, and serve at once in a small heated dish. Do not boil after adding the yolks, or it will curdle. CHICKEN LIVERS en BROCHETTE Scald the livers and soak them in the boiling water for five minutes. Cut breakfast bacon into pieces the size of the livers. Drain and wipe the livers; then put one piece on a steel or silver skewer, then a piece of bacon, and so on, until the skewer is nearly filled—about three of each on a six-inch skewer. Now dredge with salt and pepper, and baste with melted butter. Broil over a clear fire for five minutes. Serve on the skewers, with a little melted butter poured over them. 184 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK BAKED CHICKEN PIE i four or five-pound i tablespoonful of butter chicken i tablespoonful of chopped 4 medium-sized potatoes parsley y2 pound of ham Salt and pepper Draw, singe, and cut the chicken the same as for a fricassee; put it into a saucepan, cover with boiling water, and sim- mer for an hour or so—until the meat is tender when pierced with a fork. Now proceed in exactly the same manner as directed in the recipe for Veal Pie. Serve in the baking-dish. Rabbit and squirrel baked pie may be made in the same way, using two young rabbits or four squirrels instead of one chicken. CHICKEN POT-PIE i large year-old chicken i pound of lean ham The rule for plain suet paste 4 medium-sized potatoes Salt and pepper Make the paste first and stand it in a cool place while you draw and singe the chicken. Cut it up as for a fricassee; pare and cut the potatoes into dice, cut the ham the same size. Now roll out half the paste into a thin sheet. Butter the sides and bottom of a rounding pot, line it with the sheet of paste, and trim the top; roll out these trimmings into a sheet, and cut them into squares. Now put a layer of chicken in the bottom of the pot, then a layer of po- tatoes, then a sprinkling of ham, salt, pepper, and the squares of paste, then the remainder of the chicken, and then the potatoes, etc. Roll out the remainder of the paste, make a hole in the middle of it, and lay it on top of the last layer, which should be potatoes. Pour in through this hole about one quart of boiling water, place it over a moderate fire, and simmer continually for one and a half hours. Half an hour before the pie is done, add one POULTRY AND GAME 185 tablespoonful of butter, cut into bits, through the hole in top crust. When done, turn it out on a large dish so that the bottom crust will be uppermost. Rabbit or squirrel pot-pie may be made in the same manner, using two rabbits or three squirrels. CHICKEN SOUFFLE i pint of cold chopped i pint of milk chicken ^ teaspoonful of salt i tablespoonful of butter 2 dashes of pepper 1 tablespoonful of chopped 1 tablespoonful of flour parsley 3 eggs y2 cup of stale bread crumbs Put the butter into a small saucepan, and, when melted, add the flour, and mix until smooth; then add the milk, stir continually until it boils; add the crumbs; cook one minute. Take from the fire, add salt, pepper, parsley, chicken, and the yolks of the eggs well beaten. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, stir them into the mix- ture carefully. Pour into a greased baking-dish, and bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes. Serve immediately, or it will fall CASSEROLE OF CHICKEN 2 cups of rice 1 tablespoonful of butter 3 quarts of cold water y2 cup of cream 1 tablespoonful of salt Pepper to taste Wash the rice in cold water, put it in a saucepan with the cold water. Boil slowly for one hour, then drain in a col- ander, mash, and add the butter, cream, salt, and pepper. Brush a casserole or raised pie mould with butter and then with cold milk. Press the rice into this, and stand away to cool; when cool, take out the centre of the rice, leaving a wall and bottom about one inch thick. Fill this cavity with a nice white fricassee of chicken. Use the rice taken 186 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK out for an upper covering. Be careful not to press out the sauce when covering. Brush the top over with beaten egg, and put in a quick oven to brown. When brown, place on a dish, draw the little rods that fasten the mould together, and remove the mould, leaving the bottom under the cas- serole on the dish. It will not show, and it spoils the cas- serole to move it. If your mould has no bottom, it must be browned on the dish you serve it on. Pour stewed mushrooms around, and serve. MARBLED MEAT 1 good-sized chicken (five pounds) 6 sheep's tongues 2 hard-boiled eggs i pound of ham or bacon teaspoon ful of mace 6 mushrooms 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley y2 teaspoonful of cloves i tablespoon ful of onion juice Salt and pepper Clean the chicken, and take all the meat from the bones. Cover the sheep's tongues with cold water, and boil gently for two hours; then skin and cut them into thin slices. Chop the ham or bacon; cut the hard-boiled eggs into slices; grease a mould (with a cover), put in a layer of chicken, then a layer of sheep's tongues, then a layer of ham, then a layer of hard-boiled eggs sliced, then a sprink- ling of the mushrooms chopped fine, parsley, cloves, mace, salt, pepper, and a few drops of the onion juice, then another layer of chicken, and continue these alternations until all is used. Press all well together, cover the mould, stand it in a pot of boiling water, and boil two hours. Do not have the water deep enough to cover the mould. When done, remove the lid and stand away to cool. Then turn POULTRY AND GAME 187 it out of the mould, and garnish with aspic jelly or parsley and slices of lemon. The bones of the chicken may be used for making soup. CHICKEN IN JELLY i four-pound chicken i small onion i bay leaf 3 whole cloves 1 blade of mace % box of gelatine 3 hard-boiled eggs Salt and pepper to taste Clean the chicken and cut it up as for a fricassee. Put it on to cook with the onion, bay leaf, cloves, mace and pep- per. Simmer slowly until the chicken is tender (about one and one-half hours if the chicken is young). When done, take it out, cut it from the bones in nice pieces, rejecting all the skin. Now put the bones and skin back into the kettle and simmer one hour longer. Cover the gelatine with a little cold water, and let it soak an hour. Put the chicken away until the next day. Add the gelatine to the liquor, stir over the fire about one minute, take from the fire and strain. If not clear, clarify the same as Bouillon. Taste to see if properly seasoned—if not, add more salt and pepper—and stand it away also. There should be about one and a half pints of liquor when done. The next day, take all the fat from the top of the jelly, stand the jelly on the fire to melt, then pour into a square mould about a half- pint, and stand it on the ice to harden. When hard, put a layer of the chicken on top of the jelly, then slices of the hard-boiled eggs, sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, then more chicken, and so on until all is used. Now pour over this the remainder of the jelly, which should be cold, but still liquid, and should just cover the chicken. Stand away in a cold place over night. When wanted, turn care- fully from the mould, and garnish with parsley or light- colored celery tops. 188 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK BONED CHICKEN i pair of year-old chickens i cup of stale bread crumbs y2 pound of sausage meat i teaspoonful of salt i tablcspoonful of chopped i teaspoonful of onion juice parsley ^ teaspoonful of pepper Singe the chickens, cut off the heads and feet. The one that has the smoothest and best skin should be boned care- fully for the outside; the other one may be used for the inside. TO BONE Place the chicken on the table with the breast down; take a very small, sharp-pointed knife and cut the skin from the neck to the rump, down the backbone. Now carefully and slowly run the knife between the bones and flesh toward one of the wings. When you come to the thin bone, and the joint nearest the body, unjoint, and then separate it from the body; now run the knife between the flesh and the bone of the wing, and remove each bone as you come to the joint; the small bones in the tips of the wings cannot be taken out, so they may be either left on or cut off—the first is best. Now run the knife close to the bones until you come to the third joint of the legs; by twisting and cutting this joint, it will easily open, then separate it from the body; take the bones out of the leg in the same manner as the wing. The lower leg-bone can be taken out easily by turning it wrong side out and stripping the bone down. Now run the knife between the bones and flesh, on the same side, until you come to the breast-bone. Then turn the chicken and bone the other side the same. Now pull out the crop; then take the neck in one hand and the flesh and skin in the other, and gently pull the flesh, and you will partly uncover the upper part of the breast-bone; now take your finger and press the flesh from the breast-bone till you come to POULTRY AND GAME 189 the edge, then lay the chicken on its back; let some one take hold of it by the neck. Now take hold of the flesh and skin of the neck with your left hand, and pulling it gently down, with the knife cut the skin carefully from the breast-bone, the carcass coming out whole. All along this bone there is no flesh between the skin and bone, so it requires great care not to cut the skin, it should be per- fectly whole without one break when the chicken is finished. After removing the carcass, cut off the rump, leaving it attached to the flesh and skin; see that it is clean, wipe the skin with a damp towel, and spread the chicken out flesh side up; dredge it with salt and pepper. Cut up the other chicken, take the meat from the bones and chop it fine. Mix it with the sausage meat, add the crumbs, salt, pepper, parsley, and onion juice, and mix again. Take a small portion of this forcemeat and press carefully into the wings and legs where the bones have been taken out; form the remainder of it into a roll the shape of the carcass, and place it in the boned chicken; draw the skin together and sew it up from the neck to rump. Now turn it over on its back, tuck the wings back, and draw the legs down to the side of the body, press it with your hands until it is the shape of the chicken before you boned it. It is impossible to give it the exact shape; it will look more like a duck than a chicken. Now wrap it up tightly in a towel, tie with twine, running it all around so that it cannot open in any place. Now place the bones from both chickens and the skin from the one you chopped in a kettle, pour in cold water enough to cover them, and a little more. Add a knuckle of veal, one bay leaf, one onion, four cloves, a sprig of parsley, twelve pepper-corns, a small-sized carrot, sliced. Stand it over a moderate fire; at the first boil, skim it, add salt; lay the boned chicken on top of these, covet the kettle, and simmer gently for four hours. When 190 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK 1 done, take it from the kettle, remove the towel, and stand away to cool. Simmer the bones two hovirs longer, then strain and stand the liquor away to cool. When cold, take the fat from the top. There should be two quarts of this jelly. If a knuckle of veal is not at hand, cover one box of gelatine with one pint of cold water and soak one hour. After you have taken the fat from the jelly, put into a saucepan to melt; when melted and hot, add the soaked gelatine and stir until dissolved. Be sure that there are two quarts of the jelly; if not, add hot water to make the quantity. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour a layer about half an inch deep in an oblong basin or mould, stand away to harden, then lay the chicken on top and pour over and around it the remainder of the jelly, which must be cold but liquid, and should just cover the chicken; now put it in a very cold place over night. When wanted, wipe the mould with a warm cloth, and turn carefully out; gar- nish with parsley and sauce Tartare. Or, when the chicken is done, remove the towel, place the chicken in a baking-pan, baste it with water, dust it with salt and pepper, and brown in a quick oven about thirty minutes. Stand it away to cool. Make the jelly as directed, season and put away to harden in a shallow pan. When hard, remove the fat, and chop half of the jelly on a towel with a silver knife. Place the chicken on a flat dish, and put the chopped jelly all over it about a half-inch thick; cut the remaining jelly into squares (about an inch) or fancy shapes, and place them around the dish, forming a border of jelly. In summer this is the better way, as the jelly melts so quickly. It may also be served without jelly, garnished with parsley or white celery and sauce Tartare. The liquor in which it was cooked may then be used for soup. A boned chicken may be kept four or five days. POULTRY AND GAME 191 PRESSED CHICKEN An old chicken may be used for this. Draw and singe as directed. Wipe well with a damp towel, put in a kettle and cover with cold water. Place over a moderate fire, and simmer gently until the meat falls from the bones; add one teaspoonful of salt when about half done. It will take about three or four hours to cook, if the fowl is old. When done, take the meat from the bones and cut it into small pieces, not over a half-inch. square. Put the bones and skin back into the kettle, and boil until the liquor is reduced to one and a half pints, then strain, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix this with the chicken, pour the whole into a square tin mould and stand in a very cold place over night. A light weight may be placed on top to press it together, a flat-iron on a small board is best. When hard and cold, turn out of the mould, garnish with parsley, and serve. This is nice for picnics or a tea dish in summer. CAPONS A caponed chicken is drawn, cleaned, and singed in the same way as a common chicken. It may be roasted or boiled according to the recipes given for chicken, or stuffed with truffles and roasted, according to the recipe given for Turkey Stuffed with Truffles. A capon thus prepared makes a very recherche dish. TURKEY Young hen turkeys are best for roasting. The legs should be black, the skin white, the breast broad and fat; and the shorter the neck the better. An old hen has reddish rough legs. A gobbler, if young, should have black legs and small spurs, and is always much larger than the hen of the 192 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK same age. The flesh of an old gobbler is strong and tough, and it can be told by its reddish legs and long spurs. ROAST TURKEY WITH GIBLET SAUCE Clean and prepare exactly the same as Roast Chicken, using double the amount of stuffing, and roasting fifteen minutes to every pound. ROAST TURKEY STUFFED WITH CHESTNUTS Follow the recipe given for Chicken Stuffed with Chestnuts using double the amount of chestnuts. ROAST TURKEY STUFFED WITH TRUFFLES For this procure a fresh young hen turkey. Draw and singe according to directions given for chicken. Cut one pound of ham into dice, stand over a moderate fire in a saucepan; when hot, add two pounds of truffles, quarter of a nutmeg grated, a quarter-teaspoonful of white pepper and a bay leaf; stir over the fire for fifteen minutes, and stand away to cool. When cold, put two tablespoonfuls of the mixture into the space from which the craw was taken, put the remainder into the body of the turkey, and sew it up. Truss, and hang it up in a cool, dry place for about five days in winter; in warmer weather, two days. Roast as directed in preceding recipe, and serve with truffle sauce. A turkey is delicious stuffed with mushrooms in the same way. COLD ROAST TURKEY The remains of cold roast or boiled turkey may be used in croquettes, bodines, blanquettes, terrapin, or any of the numerous dishes given for cold chicken. BOILED TURKEY No. I Draw and singe the turkey as directed for chicken. Truss, but do not stuff. Put into a kettle, large enough to hold POULTRY AND GAME 193 the turkey, one tablespoonful of butter, one tablespoon ful chopped parsley, and, if you like, a teaspoonful of chopped onion; place it over a good fire, and, when the butter is hot, add water enough to cover the turkey. Take a cloth of suitable size, flour it well, and wrap around the turkey, then tie with twine. Put it in the kettle of boiling water, and simmer gently fifteen minutes to every pound. When done, remove the cloth and serve with oyster, egg, or bread sauce. BOILED TURKEY No. 2 2 cups of bread crumbs 25 oysters 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 large tablespoonful of J^ small onion parsley 2 bay leaves 4 cloves 1 quart of stock Salt and pepper to taste Draw the turkey; wipe it, inside and out, with a damp towel. TO MAKE THE FILLING Drain the oysters, add them to the bread crumbs, then add the butter, parsley, one teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper; mix all together. Fill and truss the same as in Roast Chicken. Now place the turkey in a laking-pan, spread the breast with butter, and put in a very quick oven to brown, about a half- hour. Then take it from the oven, put it into a soup kettle with the onion, bay leaves, cloves and stock. Cover, and let simmer slowly for two hours, or until the turkey is tender. Serve with the following or oyster sauce :— THE SAUCE i tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour }•£ pint of the liquor in Yolk of one egg which it was boiled Salt and pepper to taste Put the butter in a frying-pan to melt, add to it the flour, 194 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK mix well; add the liquor, and stir constantly until it boils; add salt and pepper, take from the fire, and add the beaten yolk. If you use wine, four tablespoonfuls of sherry may be added to the stock when you put the turkey on to simmer. Serve cranberry sauce with it. BONED TURKEY To bone, proceed in exactly the same manner as for Boned Chicken. When boned, fill with the following:— i pair of chickens weighing about eight pounds i cold boiled tongue i pint of mushrooms or truffles i pound of sausage meat 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley Chop the uncooked meat of the chickens very fine. Cut the tongue into very thin slices. Cut the mushrooms also into slices; spread the turkey out on the table, with the inside up and the rump towards you; dust it well with salt and pepper. Now put on a layer of sausage meat, then a layer of mushrooms, then a layer of chopped chicken, then a layer of tongue, then a sprinkling of parsley and so on until you have used nearly all the materials given. Mix the remaining materials, which should be just enough to fill the wings and legs. Bring the two sides of the skin together, giving the turkey a round form, sew it up, turn it over, tuck back the wings and fasten them with a small skewer; bring the legs down by the side of the turkey and fasten them in the same way. Now finish in precisely the same manner as a boned chicken. (See directions given for Boned Chicken, and read the whole recipe very carefully before beginning.) In selecting poultry to bone, choose those at least a year and a half old, with a smooth, perfect skin,.and dry picked. POULTRY AND GAME 195 GALANTINE OF TURKEY Select a nice fat hen turkey weighing about twelve pounds. Singe, but do not draw. Bone as directed. (See Boned Chicken). Turn the legs and wings inside out, and draw them inside of the turkey. Now bone a chicken, turn the legs and wings in the same way, dredge both with salt and pepper. Place the chicken inside the turkey, with the rump of the chicken toward the neck of the turkey so that the white meat will not all be in the same place. Mix one pound of sausage meat or lean ham with one cup of bread crumbs and two well-beaten eggs. Form into a roll the shape of the turkey carcass, place it inside the chicken, draw the skin of the turkey together, and sew it up. Then press and roll with the hands until the galantine is an even roll. Tie at the extremities, and also across in two places. Now wrap tightly in a cloth, and tie as before. Put into a soup-kettle the bones from the turkey and chicken, one onion, one carrot sliced, six whole cloves, two bay leaves, a large sprig of parsley and three quarts of cold water, stand it over a moderate fire and bring slowly to a boil; skim, put in the galantine, and simmer gently for four hours. At the end of that time take the kettle from the fire and let the galantine cool in the liquor, then take it out and place on a flat dish; put a meat board on top of it, and two flat irons on top of the board, and stand away over night. In the morning remove the cloth carefully, brush the galantine over with a beaten egg, dust with bread crumbs and parsley chopped very fine, place in a very hot oven to brown, then stand away until very cold. This can be garnished with aspic jelly, or a jelly made from the bones, same as Boned Chicken. It is to be sliced thin when eaten, helping a small portion of the jelly with each slice. 196 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK A CAPONED TURKEY A caponed turkey may be prepared as Caponed Chicken, or roasted according to the preceding recipes. It is more tender, larger, and decidedly better flavored than other turkeys, and consequently commands very high prices. DUCKS Ducks, to be good, must be young and fat, the lower part of the legs and the webbing of the feet soft, the under bill, if the duck is young, will brtfak easily. The breast should be plump and fat. ROAST DUCKS Draw and singe the same as chicken. Wipe inside and out with a damp towel. Make a stuffing from i cup of bread crumbs i teaspoon ful of powdered sage i boiled onion, mashed fine i large tablespoonful of butter i teaspoonful of salt % teaspoonful of pepper Mix the whole well, and fill the space from which the crop was taken and the body of the duck, sew and truss them the same as a chicken. Place in a baking-pan, cover the breast with a thin slice of bacon, add a half-cup of water and a half-teaspoonful of salt to the pan, and bake in a quick oven (if a full-grown duck) one and a quarter hours, basting every ten minutes. Serve with a sauce made from the giblets same as Roast Chicken. If ducklings, roast only forty-five minutes. Green peas and apple sauce should be served with roast duck. Ducks may also be stuffed with potato stuffing. (See recipe for Potato Stuffing.) POULTRY AND GAME 197 ROAST DUCKLINGS Draw, singe and clean the same as a chicken. Tuck the wings back, and fasten the legs down- to the side of the body with a small skewer, or they may be sewed with a trussing-needle and twine. Put a piece of butter the size of a walnut in each duck, place them in a baking-pan, add a half-cup of water and a half-teaspoonful of salt to the pan, and bake in a quick oven forty-five minutes, basting every ten minutes. When done, dish, serve with giblet sauce, same as Roast Chicken. Green peas, cranberry sauce or currant jelly should accompany this dish. RAGOUT OF DUCK i pair of ducks 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 tablespoonful of onion i tablespoonful of mushroom juice catsup 1 teaspoonful of lemon i bay leaf juice i pint of stock or boiling y2 gill of sherry, if you use water wine 4 or 5 mushrooms may be added, if liked Draw, clean, and singe the ducks the same as chicken. Place them in a baking-pan, put a thin slice of bacon over the breast, add a half-cup of water to the pan, and bake in a quick oven three-quarters of an hour, if tame ducks; if wild ones, bake only thirty minutes. Now take from the fire and carve them, making eight pieces of each duck—the wings, legs and second joints together, two pieces of the breast, and two of the back. Now put the butter in a saucepan, and stir until a dark brown; then add the flour, mix until smooth; add the stock or boiling water; stir con- tinually until it boils, then add the onion juice, catsup, lemon juice, bay leaf, salt and pepper to taste, and the mushrooms chopped fine; now add the ducks and all the 198 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK gravy from the dish on which you carved them; cover and simmer gently twenty minutes, if tame; ten minutes, if wild. Take from the fire", add the wine, and serve on a heated dish with a border of toasted bread cut into triangles. Arrange them around the dish with the points toward the outer edge, forming a pointed border. They should be cut before toasting. SALMI OP DUCK Prepare the same as for Ragout of Duck, adding one dozen olives five minutes before serving time. TO PREPARE THE OLIVES Stone the olives by cutting around and around, keeping close to the stone in the same manner as you pare an apple, and throw the stone away. Put the olives in boiling water and soak ten minutes, then put them in cold water until wanted. GEESE AND GOSLINGS As geese live to a great age, care should be taken in select- ing. They are not good when over three years old. A young goose has down on its legs, and the legs are soft and yellow; like a turkey, as it grows older, the legs change to a reddish color. ROAST GOOSE Draw, clean, and singe the goose the same as a chicken. Wipe it inside and out with a damp towel. Fill with Potato or Onion Stuffing (see recipe for same). Sew it up and truss, being careful not to fill it too full, as dressing always swells while cooking. Place it in a baking-pan, put a cup of water and a teaspoonful of salt in the pan, and place in a quick oven. Roast twenty-five minutes to every pound, POULTRY AND GAME 199 basting every ten minutes; after the goose has been roasting one hour, cool the oven, and roast the remainder of the time at a moderate heat. Serve with giblet sauce made the same as for Roast Chicken. Apple sauce should always be served with roast goose. Goslings may be roasted in the same manner, allow- ing fifteen minutes to every pound. GOOSE STUFFED WITH SAUERKRAUT Draw and singe the goose as directed. Wipe it inside and out with a damp towel, and fill with sauerkraut. Sew it up, tie into shape, and place it in a large kettle, cover it with about two quarts of sauerkraut, cover the whole with boiling water and simmer gently for three hours. At the end of this time take out the goose, place it in a baking- pan, baste it with melted butter, dredge the breast thickly with flour, put it in a quick oven until a nice brown (about one hour). Serve in a bed of the boiled sauerkraut. GUINEA FOWLS A young guinea fowl makes a most delicious fricassee. Draw, singe, and cut up the same as Fricassee of Chicken. Put a quarter-pound of sliced bacon into a stewing-pan; when brown, add the guinea fowl, and stir over the fire until every piece is a golden brown. Now add to every pair of guinea fowls two tablespoonfuls of flour; stir until thor- oughly mixed; then add one pint of boiling water, a tea- spoonful of salt, three or four dashes of black pepper. Stir continually until it boils. Cover, and simmer gently about one and a half hours, or until the fowls are tender when pierced with a fork. When done, taste to see if properly seasoned; if not, add more salt and pepper, and serve. Potato croquettes are a nice accompaniment to this dish. 200 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK GUINEA POT-PIE Make precisely the same as Chicken Pot-pie, using two guineas instead of one chicken. PEA FOWLS Draw and singe the same as chicken, and cook according to any of the recipes given for cooking turkey. PIGEONS POTTED PIGEONS y2 dozen pigeons i pint of stock or water ^ pound of salt pork i bay leaf i tablespoonful of flour i onion i tablespoonful of mush- 1 sprig of parsley room catsup i teaspoonful of salt A little black pepper Clean and wash the pigeons; fill same as a roast chicken, and truss. Put the pork in a frying-pan and try out all the fat. Roll the pigeons in flour and brown them in the hot fat. When they are nicely browned, put them in a stewing- pan, add the flour to the fat remaining in the frying-pan, stir until a nice brown, add the stock or water, stir again until it boils, add the salt, pepper, catsup, bay leaf, onion sliced, parsley, salt, and pepper. Pour this over the pigeons, cover the stewing-pan, and simmer gently two hours. When done, remove the strings, strain the gravy over and around the pigeons. Serve with boiled rice in a separate dish. ROAST PIGEONS Draw, singe, and stuff the same as a chicken. Place them in a baking-pan; put a half-cup of water and a teaspoonful of salt in the pan; place in a quick oven, and bake one hour, basting at first with melted butter, afterwards with their own gravy. When done, dish in a row on a large POULTRY AND GAME 201 meat plate. Add one tablespoonful of butter to the pan, and brown; then add a tablespoonful of flour and mix well; now add a half-pint of boiling water. Stir continu- ally until it boils, season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve in a boat. BROILED SQUABS Clean and singe same as a chicken. Split them down the back, flatten them with a rolling-pin, and wipe carefully, inside and out, with a damp towel. Broil the same as spring chickens. They may be roasted whole, without stuffing, the same as woodcock. SALMI OF SQUAB 6 squabs i bay leaf i slice of onion i tablespoonful of mushroom i pint of stock catsup i tablespoonful of Wor- i tablespoonful of butter cestershire sauce 5 mushrooms 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 tablespoonful of sherry, if 1 thin slice of carrot you use wine Salt and pepper to taste Clean the squabs and truss them. Put the butter in a fry- ing-pan ; and when hot, brown the squabs. Take them out and put them in a saucepan, add the onion, carrot, and bay leaf. Add the flour to the butter in the frying-pan mix well, and then add the stock, stir constantly until it boils, pour it over the squabs, cover them, and simmer until tender (about thirty minutes). When done, dish the squabs in the centre of a meat plate. Add to the sauce the mush- room catsup, Worcestershire sauce, and the mushrooms chopped fine, salt and pepper, and simmer for ten minutes; take from the fire and add the wine, strain it over the squabs, and serve. 302 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK BAKED SQUABS 6 squabs 2 tablespoonfuls of butter i gill of stock % pound of bacon Salt and pepper to taste Clean and truss the birds. Rub the breasts with a piece of onion. Divide the butter into six equal parts, put one part into each squab, and with it one cranberry. Now put them into a baking-pan, cut the bacon in thin slices, put one slice over the breast of each bird, add the stock, salt and pepper, and bake in a very quick oven (4200 Fahr.) for three-quarters of an hour, basting every ten minutes. Put the livers and hearts in a stewing-pan to boil at the same time you put the birds in the oven. Serve the squabs on buttered toast with the following sauce poured around them. Remove the bacon from the pan, then put into it one tablespoonful of butter, and brown, add one tablespoonful of flour, and the livers and hearts mashed fine. Mix all well together, add a half-pint of stock, stir constantly until it boils, add salt and pepper. Serve green peas as an accompaniment to this dish. GAME In winter game may be kept two weeks without spoiling or losing one particle of its natural flavor, if it has not been packed and shipped. As our Eastern cities are supplied from the Western States, it is necessary that they should be packed for shipment, which causes fermentation, even if the weather is very cold. TO KEEP BIRDS FRESH Do not pick them, but make a small opening under the rump just large enough to take out the entrails, which do POULTRY AND GAME 203 as carefully as possible, without breaking the gall. If you should be so unfortunate as to break it, pick the bird, wash it, and use immediately; it will not keep. Birds may be hung up by the feet in a cold, dry place for one or two weeks, until the feathers come out easily. VENISON Venison, like mutton, should be well hung in a cold, dry place,—in winter, at least two weeks; in warmer weather, one week. The meat should be of fine grain and nicely covered with fat. If the venison is young, the hoof will be but slightly opened; if old, wide open. HAUNCH OF VENISON ROASTED Wipe the venison well with a towel dipped in warm water. Leave the hoof and four or five inches of skin or hair on the lower part of the leg. Lard the haunch thickly with salt pork. If you have no larding-needle, make slight incisions with a small knife, about an inch and a half apart, and put a small piece of salt pork in each incision. It may be roasted without larding, but as the meat is naturally dry, it is certainly a great improvement. Fold a piece of coarse muslin into three or four thicknesses, wide enough to cover the hoof and hair. Dip this in cold water, and bind it around the hoof and hair, tie, envelop this in several thick- nesses of buttered letter paper, and tie tightly. This is to prevent the hair and hoof from changing color. If your haunch is large, the cloth may require a second or third wetting. Now place it before a brisk fire, or in a very hot oven, and roast fifteen minutes to every pound, basting every ten minutes at first with melted butter, and afterwards with its own drippings. When half done, season with a 204 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK teaspoonful of salt and a few dashes of black pepper. When done, unwrap the hoof, and dish. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour to the fat in the pan in which it was roasted, stir until brown, add one pint of good stock, stir constantly until it boils; take from the fire, add one tablespoonful of currant jelly and one of sherry, season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve in a boat. Currant jelly and water-cress should accompany this dish. SADDLE OF VENISON ROASTED Saddle and shoulder may be roasted the same as the haunch. As they cannot so well be larded, cover them with several thicknesses of buttered paper while roasting, to prevent the juices from drying out. VENISON STEAKS BROILED Steaks are usually cut from the leg or haunch. As it requires but a very short time to broil them, and they are not good unless very hot, see that everything and every- body is ready before broiling. Now put the dish in which they are to be served over a kettle of boiling water to heat; put in it a piece of butter the size of a walnut, a quarter- teaspoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls of port wine, and a tablespoonful of currant jelly. Grease the bars of the grid- iron with suet, lay the steaks on it, and broil over a clear, hot fire, turning almost constantly. If your steaks are a half-inch thick, eight minutes will broil them. Put them in the heated dish, and turn them in the mixture once or twice. Serve immediately on heated plates. The quanti- ties given are for two steaks. Vension steaks may also be broiled and served the same as beefsteaks, with a simple dressing of salt, pepper and butter. POULTRY AND GAME 205 VENISON CUTLETS Trim the cutlets nicely. Put them in an earthen vessel, and cover with a marinade made as follows: To every pound of venison allow four tablespoonfuls of vinegar, four of claret, two bay leaves, one small onion sliced, sprig of parsley, lour whole cloves, and a blade of mace; mix, and put into a porcelain kettle, stand over a brisk fire, give one boil and pour over the cutlets. Let stand until next day, turning them three or four times. Next day wipe and lard them, and broil over a quick fire. Serve with the same sauce as Vension Steaks. These may also be broiled and served with brown sauce. RAGOUT OF VENISON Ragout of venison may be made the same as Ragout of Beef, using venison instead of beef, adding one gill of port wine and one tablespoonful of currant jelly to the sauce after you take it from the fire. SOUR STEW This can be made from the bones and meat, after the steaks, haunch, etc., have been taken off. Cut two pounds of meat into pieces about an inch square. Put a quarter- pound of sliced bacon in a frying-pan, and try out all the fat. Dredge the meat thickly with flour, and brown it in the bacon fat. Take it out with a skimmer and put it in a stewpan. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour to the fat in which the meat was browned, mix well, and brown; add one pint of boiling water, stir constantly until it boils, and pour it over the meat. Cover it, and let simmer gently one hour. Now add one small onion sliced, one bay leaf, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a thin paring of 206 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK lemon peel, a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of Wor- cestershire sauce, and let simmer one hour longer. Take from the fire, add a tablespoonful of vinegar, and serve. VENISON IN A CHAFING-DISH Put a piece of butter, the size of a walnut, in youi chafing- dish; and, when hot, put in the steak. When brown on one side, turn and brown on the other, and add a quarter- teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of currant jelly, two tablespoonfuls of sherry, and a little black pepper. Cover the dish; let all heat together about two minutes, and serve. TO CURE VENISON HAMS These may be cured exactly the same as ordinary pork hams. They are usually eaten chipped, but they are deli- cious frizzled the same as dried beef. BUFFALO STEAKS Buffalo steaks are broiled precisely the same as beefsteak, seasoning only with butter, salt, and pepper. Buffalo meat may also be roasted or stewed. BEAR MEAT Bear meat is best roasted. It may be treated the same as pork, cooking twenty minutes to every pound. BEAR STEAKS Bear steaks may be cooked in a chafing-dish, the same as venison steaks, omitting the currant jelly. POULTRY AND GAME 207 RABBITS or HARES TO SELECT The body should be rather stiff, free from any unpleasant odor, and the flesh of a reddish appearance. If young, it will have soft paws and ears; if old, the ears will be stiff and the edges rough, the paws hard and worn. Tame rabbits, as a rule, are not fit to use. FRICASSEE OF RABBIT Skin the rabbit; singe it. Remove the entrails, if it has not been previously cleaned. Wipe it well inside and out with a wet cloth, then dry. Do not wash or soak, as the blood of the rabbit is a great improvement to the flavor. Cut it first down the back, splitting it into halves; then cut each half into four pieces. Finish precisely the same as Fricassee of Chicken, either brown or white. BROILED RABBIT The rabbit must be very young and tender for this purpose. Clean as directed in preceding recipe. Cut into halves only, and broil the same as a spring chicken. Serve on a hot dish; dredge with pepper and salt, and butte-r liberally. PANNED RABBIT Clean and cut into halves as directed. Place in a baking- pan, spread lavishly with butter, dust with salt and pepper, and bake in a quick oven one hour, basting every ten min- utes. When done, lay on a heated dish. Add one table- spoonful of flour to the fat in the pan; mix well; add a half-pint of boiling water, stir until it boils, add salt and pepper to taste, pour it over and around the rabbit, and it is ready to serve. 208 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK RABBIT PIE Make the same as Chicken Pie, using two rabbits instead of one chicken. The English hares may be cooked the same as our common wild rabbits. SQUIRRELS Squirrels may be fricasseed, broiled, and panned precisely the same as rabbits. RACCOONS, SKUNKS AND OPOSSUMS These are eaten by many people, but as I have had no ex- perience in cooking the above animals, I will merely state that they may be cooked in all the ways that rabbits are, and served the same. WILD TURKEY Draw and singe the same as a chicken. Wipe inside and out carefully with a damp towel. Make a stuffing from two cups of stale bread, a quarter-pound of salt pork chopped fine, a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter-tea- spoonful of pepper, mixed well together. Stuff the space from which the crop was taken, allowing room for the filling to swell, then put the remainder in the body of the bird. Truss. Place in a baking-pan, cover the breast with thin slices of fat pork, put a half-cup of water in the pan, and bake in a quick oven fifteen minutes to every pound. After one hour, cool the oven slightly, put a teaspoonful of salt in the pan, and baste with melted butter every ten min- utes at first, afterwards with its own gravy. Serve with giblet sauce, the same as tame turkey. Cranberry sauce should always accompany this dish. POULTRY AND GAME WILD DUCKS Wild ducks may be selected the same as tame ones. Can- vas-backs and redheads are considered best, but the blue- winged teal, black duck, widgeon and wood duck are all good. TO ROAST WILD DUCK Pick, draw, and singe the same as chicken. Wipe them inside and out with a damp towel. Do not wash them unless you break the gall or intestines, as it greatly destroys the flavor. If they have a fishy odor, rub the breast lightly with a piece of onion, and put three or four cranberries (uncooked) in the duck before cooking it. Tuck back the wings and truss the legs down close to the body. Put the cranberries and a piece of butter the size of a walnut in each duck. Place them in a baking-pan, add one tea- spoonful of salt and a quarter-cup of boiling water to the the pan, baste them well with melted butter, put them into a very hot oven, and bake forty-five minutes, if wanted rare; one hour, if well done; basting with their own gravy every five minutes. When done, serve with the gravy from the pan poured over them. Wild ducks are much better when not stuffed; but if stuffing is preferred, potato is best. (See recipe for Potato Stuffing.) Serve currant jelly and green peas with them. SALMI OF WILD DUCK Proceed in the same manner as for Salmi of Tame Duck- and it is most delicious. RAGOOT OF WILD DUCK A whole duck, or the remains from yesterday's dinner, may be used for this dish. (See recipe for Ragout of Duck.) 210 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK WILD GOOSE A wild goose may be selected and cooked precisely the same as a wild duck. WILD PIGEONS Wild pigeons may be prepared and cooked the same as tame ones. Roasted or "baked, they make a very nice gar- nish for a wild turkey. After the turkey is dished, arrange six or eight pigeons around it; fill the vacant spaces with curly parsley. This makes a very sightly dish. PIGEON PIE Pick and clean four wild pigeons, the same as chicken. Cut them into halves, put them into a baking-pan, baste with melted butter, and bake in a quick oven for forty-five min- utes, basting with melted butter, salt and pepper every ten minutes, using in all about two tablespoonfuls of butter, a half-teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper. At the end of this time, take them out. Line a two-quart tin basin or a raised pie-mould with plain butter paste. Have ready one pound of ham cut into dice, six hard-boiled eggs sliced. Put a layer of pigeons in the bottom, then ham, then eggs, then salt, pepper, and a few bits of butter, then pigeon, and so on, until all is used. Cover with a thick sheet of paste; make a hole in the centre, and ornament with some leaves and flowers cut out of the paste trimmings. Bake in a quick oven for thirty minutes, or until the paste is done. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in the pan in which they were roasted, stir it over the fire until a nice brown, then add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and mix until smooth; add one pint of boiling water, salt and pepper to taste; 212 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK salt and pepper when half done. Roast three-quarters of an hour, if liked rare; if well done, one hour. Serve on squares of toast, with the gravy in the pan poured around them. Garnish with parsley- TO BROIL PHEASANTS, PARTRIDGES, QUAIL, GROUSE, OR PRAIRIE FOWLS Split them down the back, lard the breasts, and broil the same as pigeons. Serve currant jelly with them. TO ROAST WOODCOCKS, SNIPES, OR PLOVERS Many prefer these birds not drawn; that is, the crop only is taken out through a small slit in the skin on the back of the neck, while all the entrails are allowed to remain in the bird. Of course, every one to his own taste; but we pre- fer and recommend that they should be drawn, but not washed, as it certainly does spoil game or poultry to put them in water. Wipe them, inside and out, with a damp towel, and then dry on a clean one. For those who like the trail, as it is called, we will give the following recipe: Pick the birds, singe, and take out the crop as directed. Cut the wings off at the second joint—that is, the second from the tip. Scald the legs and peel the skin off the feet and lower part of legs; pick the necks all the way up to the head; then singe, fold the legs close to the body, and rnn the bill of the bird through both legs and the body. Cover the breast with thin slices of bacon and fasten with twine. Now place the birds in a baking-pan with a square of toasted bread under each bird to catch the trail; put them in a hot oven or before a good fire. Roast thirty-five minutes, basting every five minutes, the first time with POULTRY AND GAME 213 melted butter and afterwards with the gravy in the pan. Remove the bacon five minutes before the birds are done, baste them with melted butter, dust with salt and pepper, and put back to brown. Serve on a heated dish with the squares of toast under them. Garnish with parsley and a spoonful of currant jelly. We will say to those who, like ourselves, prefer them drawn, proceed as directed above, only draw the bird and wipe it inside and out. TO ROAST RAIL AND REED BIRDS Pick, draw, and singe the birds. Cut off the ends of the wings and the feet. Leave the heads on. Wipe the birds, inside and out, and wrap each in a thin slice of bacon. Take a skewer long enough to hold six birds, run the skewer through the bacon and the bodies of the birds, fasten them on the spit and roast before a clear fire fifteen minutes, basting almost constantly with their own dripping. Serve each bird on a square of toast garnished with parsley —of course, removing the skewer and bacon. Or, wrap the birds in bacon and tie with twine, place them in rows in a baking-pan, and bake in a quick oven fifteen minutes, basting three or four times with their own dripping. When done, remove the bacon and strings, serve on squares of buttered toast with the gravy from the pan poured around them. Garnish with parsley. All small birds, such as meadow larks, robins, black- birds and sparrows, may be cooked in the same manner. BLACKBIRD PIE Blackbird pie may be made the same as Pigeon Pie, using one dozen blackbirds instead of four pigeons. 214 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK GAME PIE For this any of the birds mentioned in the preceding recipes may be used. We will use partridges. Bone the partridges according to the directions for boning chicken. Then cut them in halves. Cut one dozen mushrooms or truffles into thin slices. Cut one pound of ham into dice. Cut six hard-boiled eggs into slices. Chop some parsley very fine. Have ready one batch of puff paste and half the quantity given in recipe of Suet Paste (see recipe for Suet Paste). Roll half the puff paste down to the thickness of one-third of an inch. Grease a French pie-mould and line it carefully with this sheet of paste. With a sharp knife cut the paste even with the top of the mould. Roll the suet paste down to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and cut it into pieces one inch square. Now put a layer of birds in the bottom of the mould, then a sprink- ling of ham, salt, pepper, parsley, hard-boiled eggs, and squares of the suet paste, a few bits of butter here and there; now another layer of birds, and so on until all the materials are used. Now roll out for the top crust the remainder of the puff paste, wet the edges of the under- crust with cold water, put the paste for the cover on the pie, and press it gently with the thumb to cement the two edges together, and with a sharp knife cut off the upper paste even with the mould. Make a hole in the middle of the top crust. Roll out these trimmings of the paste and cut into leaf-shaped pieces, form and pinch them together in the shape of a flower, and place in the hole of the upper crust. Brush the cover of the pie with beaten egg, and bake in a moderately quick oven (about 4000 Fahr.) for two hours. While the pie is baking, take the bones, hearts and livers of the birds, put them in a saucepan and cover with a quart of cold wjater; add a slice of onion and a bay POULTRY AND GAME 215 leaf, and simmer gently until the pie is done; then strain. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan and stir until a dark brown; then add two tablespoon fuls of flour; mix until smooth; add one pint of the stock from bones and liver, and stir constantly until it boils; add six mush- rooms, chopped very fine; season with salt and pepper to taste; take from the fire, add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and, if you use wine, one tablespoonful of sherry. Pour the sauce in the pie through a funnel placed in the hole on the top, being careful not to break the flower. Lift the pie carefully on to a heated dish, remove the mould, and serve. Or, omit the sauce and allow the pie to cool. When cold, garnish with aspic jelly cut into fancy shapes, and put on the dish and around the top of the pie. PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK ADDITIONAL RECIPES 218 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK FORCEMEATS and STUFFINGS HAM FORCEMEAT i pint of cold cooked i tablespoonful of chopped ham, chopped fine parsley i pint of milk y2 teaspoonful of salt % pint of stale bread yi teaspoonful of cayenne crumbs i teaspoonful of French. Yolks of three eggs mustard Put the milk on to boil, add the bread crumbs, and stir until it thickens, then add the yolks of the eggs; take from the fire and add all the other ingredients, mix, stand away to cool, and it is ready to use. This may be used as stuffing for game or meats, or made into small balls, dipped in egg and bread crumbs, fried in boiling fat, and used to garnish made meat dishes. CHICKEN FORCEMEAT i four-pound chicken i tablespoonful of chopped i pint of milk parsley Yolks of three eggs i teaspoonful of salt i cup of bread crumbs yi teaspoonful of cayenne % teaspoonful of grated nutmeg Clean and draw the chicken as directed. Take the meat from the bones and chop very fine. (The bones and skin may be used for soup or stock.) Put the milk on to boil, 220 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK add to it the bread crumbs, stir until it thickens, add the yolks of the eggs well beaten; take from the fire and add all the other ingredients, mix, and stand away to cool. Use the same as Ham Forcemeat. BREAD STUFFING i pint of stale bread crumbs 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter i teaspoon ful of salt % teaspoonful of black pepper i tablespoon ful of chopped parsley i teaspoonful of sweet marjoram Mix the bread, salt, pepper, parsley and sweet marjoram together, then moisten with the melted butter, and it is ready to use. SAGE STUFFING Make same as preceding recipe, adding two teaspoonfuls of powdered sage. ONION STUFFING This may be made the same as Bread Stuffing, omitting the sweet marjoram, and adding two large tablespoonfuls of chopped onion. POTATO STUFFING 2 cups of mashed potatoes Yolks of two eggs (hot) i teaspoonful of salt i teaspoonful of onion juice i tablespoonful of chopped 4 tablespoonfuls of cream parsley y£ teaspoonful of black pepper i tablespoonful of butter Mix the whole together and beat well. This stuffing is nice for ducks or geese. MEAT AND FISH SAUCES AND GRAVIES Once a week in winter and twice a week in summer you should make your gravy and sauce stock; and for this you should save every bone, cooked or uncooked, of beef, mutton, veal, ham, poultry and game, the green tops of celery and all juices left in the bottom of the dish from steaks or roasts. Keep them in a stone jar in a cold place until wanted. An economical housekeeper has always on hand a good supply of this stock without the outlay of a single cent. It should be made on ironing or baking day, thereby saving the use of any extra fuel. This stock could be used for soups, but is never perfectly clear and is not so nutritious as stock made from the shin of beef. The preparation of sauces and gravies is of the greatest importance, and in nothing does the talent of a cook more display itself. All ingredients used should harmonize and blend perfectly, and you must bear in mind that water is no substitute for stock. Many cooks fail in the thickening of sauces. The butter and flour should be well rubbed and cooked together before adding the liquid to prevent the sauce from having a floury, uncooked taste. The Drawn Butter sauce, simple as it is, is seldom properly prepared. (mi) 222 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK The common practice of wetting the flour and then stir- ring it into the gravy is objectionable, as in this way the flour does not hold the fat in suspension, and it therefore invariably floats. All sauces must be stirred continually while on the fire, and seasoned carefully, so that each sauce may have its own individual flavor. Spare the cayenne; remember it destroys every other flavor as well as your own taste. "For palates gro-on callous almost to disease. Who peppers the highest is surest to pleased — Goldsmith. STOCK FOR SAUCES AND GRAVIES Place in a soup kettle all the fresh bones taken from your roasts and steaks, cooked or uncooked, bones of mut- ton, lamb, veal, beef or poultry; also, the trimmings of same if fresh, allowing one quart of cold water to every pound of bones and meat. Boil and skim same as Soup Stock; add the same vegetables and seasoning. This stock is excellent for sauces and gravies in the place of water, but does not make a good soup stock. ALLEMANDE SAUCE I tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour 6 mushrooms, chopped fine j4 pint of white stock Yolks of three eggs % teaspoonful of grated y2 teaspoonful of onion juice nutmeg ^ teaspoonful of white pepper J4 teaspoonful of salt Melt the butter, but do not brown it; then add the flour, mix well; add the stock, stir continually until it boils; add ths mushrooms, simmer one minute. Take from the fire, add the beaten yolks, salt, pepper, nutmeg and onion juice. This is a nice sauce for boiled or baked fish. Do not boil after adding the eggs. SAUCES AND GRAVIES 223 ANCHOVY SAUCE Make a Maitre d' H6tel Sauce, then add to it three table- spoonfuls of anchovy paste. The paste may be purchased from your grocer in bot- tles ready for use. This is a nice sauce for fried fish APPLE SAUCE 6 tart apples y2 cup of water Sugar and nutmeg to taste Pare, core and slice the apples, put them in a porcelain kettle with the water, cook and stir until soft (about ten minutes); then mash them through a sieve, or, better, a "Henis Vegetable Press," add butter the size of a walnut, sugar, and nutmeg, mix well, and it is ready to use. This should accompany all pork dishes. BEARNAISE SAUCE Yolks of four eggs 4 tablespoonfuls of olive oil Dash of cayenne % teaspoonful of salt 4 tablespoonfuls of hot water 1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar Beat the yolks until creamy, add the water and oil, stand the bowl in a pan of boiling water, and stir until the eggs thicken. Take from the fire and add the vinegar, salt and pepper; mix well, and stand away to cool. This is most delicious, and may be served with a broiled steak, smelts, or lobster chops. BECHAMEL SAUCE 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 gill of stock 1 gill of cream 2 dashes of pepper Yolk of one egg y2 teaspoonful of salt Melt the butter without browning, then add the flour, mix "24 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK until smooth; add the stock and cream, stir continually un- til it boils; take from the fire, add the salt, pepper, and the yolk of the egg well beaten. This sauce is especially nice for sweetbreads, chickens, cutlets, and baked or boiled fish. BREAD SAUCE i pint of milk y?, pint of bread crumbs i tablespoonful of onion juice, i blade of mace or one small onion i bay leaf 2 tablespoonfuls of butter Salt and pepper to taste Put the bread and milk in a farina boiler, add the onion, mace, and bay leaf, cook five minutes; then press through a sieve, return to the fire, add the butter, salt and pepper to taste, and it is ready to use. BROWN SAUCE No. I i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour y pint of stock J^ teaspoonful of onion juice y2 teaspoonful of salt yi teaspoonful of white or black pepper Melt the butter, stir until a dark brown, add the flour, mix well; add the stock, and stir continually until it boils; add onion juice, salt and pepper, and it is ready to use. BROWN SAUCE No. a i large tablespoonful of i even tablespoonful of flour butter ^ pint of boiling water i small onion i small carrot i bay leaf i blade of mace i sprig of parsley i tablespoonful of Worcester- i tablespoonful of mush- shire sauce room catsup i tablespoonful of sherry, if y2 teaspoonful of salt you use wine yi teaspoonful of pepper Melt and stir the butter over the fire until a dark brown, SAUCES AND GRAVIES 225 then add the flour, and mix smooth; add the boiling water, stir continually until it boils; add the onion, carrot, bay leaf, mace, and parsley. Simmer very gently for fifteen minutes, then strain, add the salt, Worcestershire sauce, mushroom catsup, and pepper; stir until thoroughly mixed, and it is ready to use. This is nice for beefsteak or warmed-over meats. BROWN SAUCE No. 3 % pound of bacon 1 tablespoonful of mushroom 1 tablespoonful of flour catsup 1 tablespoonful of Worces- 1 tablespoonful of sherry, if tershire sauce you use wine V^ pint of stock Salt and pepper to taste Slice the bacon, put it in a frying-pan and try out all the fat. Take out the bacon, add the flour, stir until smooth; add the stock, stir continually until it boils; add the Wor- cestershire sauce, mushroom catsup, salt and pepper; take from the fire, and add the wine. CAPER SAUCE Make a Drawn Butter, according to the recipe given, add to it one large tablespoonful of capers. This is nice served with boiled mutton or fish. CELERY SAUCE 5 roots of celery 1 pint of cold water 1 even tablespoonful of flour 1 gill of milk 1 tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste Clean the celery, cut it into small pieces, put it in a sauce- pan, add the water, cover the saucepan, and stew slowly for half an hour, then press it through a colander. Put the butter in a frying-pan; when melted, add the flour, mix; add the milk and celery, stir continually until it boils; add salt and pepper, and it is ready to use. This sauce is usually served with boiled poultry. 220 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK CHAMPAGNE SAUCE Make Brown Sauce No. i, omitting the onion juice; take from the fire, add one gill of champagne. This is suitable for game. It may be varied by adding one gill of port wine instead of champagne. CHESTNUT SAUCE i pint of the large chestnuts i large tablespoonful of i pint of stock butter i tablespoonful of flour Salt and pepper to taste Roast the chestnuts; when done, peel them, mash fine. Melt the butter and stir until a dark brown, then add the flour, mix well; add the stock and chestnuts, stir continually until it boils; add the salt and pepper. This is especially nice for roasted poultry. CRANBERRY SAUCE i quart of cranberries i pint of water i pound of sugar Wash the cranberries in cold water, put them in a por- celain-lined kettle with one pint of water, and boil rapidly ten minutes, or until the berries pop; then press them through a colander, return them to the kettle, add the sugar, and stir over the fire until the sugar is thoroughly melted (this will take about two minutes); turn out to cool. Serve with poultry, game, venison, or mutton. CREAM SAUCE i tablespoonful of flour i tablespoonful of butter ^ pint of cream or milk y teaspoonful of salt 2 dashes of pepper Melt the butter, being careful not to brown it; add the flour, mix until smooth; then add the cream or milk, stir continually until it boils; add sak and pepper, and use at once. If you are not quite ready to use it, stand it over SAUCES AND GRAVIES 227 boiling water to keep warm, stirring frequently to prevent a crust from forming on the top. This sauce may be used with lobster chops, sweetbreads, chicken chops, and other similar dishes. CREAM SAUCE WITH MUSHROOMS Make a Cream Sauce, add one cup of fresh mushrooms chopped fine, or the same quantity of canned mushrooms, and cook over boiling water ten minutes. If canned mush- rooms are used, simply heat, do not cook, as it toughens the mushrooms. This sauce may be used the same as Cream Sauce. CURRANT JELLY SAUCE Make Brown Sauce No. i, and add to it four tablespoon- fuls of currant jelly; let it boil up once, and it is ready to use. This is served with game. CURRY SAUCE Add one teaspoonful of curry powder and one teaspoonful of onion juice to the recipe for Drawn Butter. DRAWN BUTTER 2 tablespoonfuls of butter l4 pint of boiling water i tablespoonful of flour ^ teaspoonful of salt Mix the butter and flour to a smooth paste in a bowl, place the bowl over the fire in a pan of boiling water, add the half-pint of boiling water gradually, stirring all the while until it thickens; add the salt. Take from the fire and use immediately. The great point in preparing drawn butter is to take from the fire as soon as it thickens. For this sauce it is very essential to have good butter. Serve with asparagus, boiled fish, cauliflower, etc. 228 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK EGG SAUCE Make a Cream Sauce, and when finished add two hard- boiled eggs, the whites chopped very fine and the yolks pressed through a sieve. Serve with boiled poultry. ESPAGNOLE SAUCE Boil one quart of consomme until reduced to one pint. Then put four ounces of butter in a frying-pan and stir until very brown; then add two tablespoonfuls of flour; mix well; add the reduced consomme^ stir continually until it boils; then add one tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, one tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, salt and pep- per to taste. Take from the fire and add two tablespoon- fuls of sherry. FISH SAUCE i tablespoonful of chopped Yolks of three eggs parsley l& teaspoonful of salt i tablespoonful of chopped i dash of cayenne gherkins y2 pint of olive oil i tablespoonful of vinegar Put the chopped parsley into a bowl and pound it with a potato-masher until reduced to a pulp, then add to it the yolks of the eggs, mix thoroughly, and proceed as for May- onnaise Dressing. When you have finished it, add the cayenne and gherkin. Serve with boiled or broiled fish. SAUCE HOLLANDAISE Make a Drawn Butter; when you have finished it, take it from the fire, and add gradually the yolks of two eggs (beaten); then add juice of half a lemon, a teaspoonful of onion juice, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Serve with boiled or baked fish and fish croquettes. LOBSTER SAUCE Make a Drawn Butter; when you have finished it, add one cup of boiled lobster, chopped fine, and the coral, if SAUCES AND GRAVIES 22S there be any, rubbed to a smooth paste with a tablespoonfuJ of butter. Return it to the fire and stir for five minutes. Serve with fish. MAITRE d'HOTEL SAUCE 2 tablespoonfuls of butter i tablespoon ful of chopped parsley i tablespoon ful of lemon juice % teaspoonful of salt Mix all the ingredients and knead well together in a bowl. It should be perfectly smooth. Served with salt fish, broiled or fried. This is also called Maitre d'Hotel Butter. MINT SAUCE i bunch of mint (ten stalks) 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar i large tablespoonful of white teaspoonful of salt sugar 2 dashes of black pepper Chop the mint until very fine; then mix with it the sugar; add salt and pepper, and rub well, adding the vinegar little by little. Serve with roast lamb. MUSHROOM SAUCE Make Brown Sauce No. 3, and add to it one pint of fresh or canned mushrooms; if the first, simmer gently for fifteen minutes; if the latter, only five. Take from the fire, and add the wine, if you use it. The fat must be very brown before adding the flour, or the sauce will be muddled. Serve with broiled steak, fillet, veal cutlets and other similar dishes. OLIVE SAUCE Make Brown Sauce No. i, and add to it one dozen olives prepared as follows: With a sharp-pointed knife pare around and around the olive as you would an apple, keeping close to the stone; throw them in boiling water for ten minutes, SAUCES AND GRAVIES 231 SAUCE PIQUANTE Make Brown Sauce No. i, stand it over boiling water to keep hot while you prepare the following: Put two table- spoonfuls of chopped onion, one gill of vinegar, one table- spoonful of capers, and (if you can get it) one tablespooonful of powdered tarragon leaves, in a small, porcelain-lined saucepan, and simmer for five minutes; add to it the brown sauce, stir continually until it boils, and boil five minutes; strain and use. SHRIMP SAUCE Make the same as Lobster Sauce, adding one cup of chopped shrimps instead of one cup of lobster. SHAD-ROE SAUCE Wash two shad roes well in cold water. Put them in a small saucepan, add one teaspoonful of salt, cover with boiling water; put the lid on the saucepan, and simmer gently for fifteen minutes. Drain, remove the outer skin, and mash fine. Make a White Sauce, add the roe gradually to it, boil up once, and it is ready to use. Serve with baked shad. SUPREME SAUCE i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of thick i tablespoonful of chopped cream parsley ^ pint of chicken stock i tablespoonful of flour Yolks of two eggs Salt and pepper to taste Melt the butter being careful not to brown ; add the flour; mix until smooth; then add the stock; stir continually until it boils; add the cream. Take from the fire, add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, parsley, salt and pepper, and it is ready to use. This sauce may be served with broiled or fried chicken, or chicken cutlets. 232 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK SAUCE TARTARE y2 pint of mayonnaise dressing 3 olives l gherkin i tablespoonful of capers Chop the olives, gherkin, and capers very fine, add them to the dressing, and it is ready for use. You may add a half-tcaspoonful of powdered coriander seed, or one tabic . spoonful of tarragon vinegar. Serve with smelts, lobster chops, or cold meat dishes. TOMATO SAUCE i pint of stewed tomatoes i bay leaf i tablespoonful of butter i sprig of parsley i tablespoonful of flour i blade of mace i small onion Salt and pepper to taste Put the tomatoes on the fire with the onion, bay leaf, parsley, and mace, and simmer slowly for ten minutes. Melt the butter, add to it the flour; mix until smooth. Press the tomatoes through a sieve, add them to the butter and flour, stir continually until it boils, add salt and pepper, and it is ready to use. This may be served with chops, fillet, or broiled steak. CREAM TOMATO SAUCE Make a Tomato Sauce, and, when ready to serve, add to it three tablespoonfuls of thick cream. Do not boil after adding the cream. WHITE SAUCE Last, but not least, as this is the foundation of many others:— i tablespoonful of butter y2 pint of white stock i tablespoonful of flour Salt and pepper to taste Melt the butter, but do not brown; add to it the flour; mix, and add the stock; stir continually until it boils; add salt and pepper, and it is ready to serve. SALADS In giving recipes for salad dressings, it is almost impossible to give exact quantities, especially if we consider the great diversity of tastes. Delmonico, it is said, used only one yolk as a foundation for a quart of oil, with salt and cay- enne as seasoning. For fish, meats, and some vegetables, such as cauliflower, tomatoes, and celery, this dressing (mayonnaise) seems appropriate; but the simple French dressing for lettuce, served as a salad after a hearty meal, is best. In preparing these dressings, use a silver or wooden fork, a large soup plate, which should be very, very cold, and the freshest and best of olive oil, cayenne or white pepper, and good strong vinegar or lemon juice. A com- mon question is, "What can we use in the place of oil?" Cream and melted butter may be used, but will not take the place of the oil. The Spanish proverb is that four persons are necessary to make a good salad: "A spend- thrift, for oil; a miser, for vinegar; a barrister, for salt; and a madman, to stir it up." If you wish to preserve the crispness and flavor of green vegetables for salads, throw them in ice-water for an hour, then dry carefully on a soft towel, being careful not to bruise them, and then put in a cold place until wanted. Never mix any salad with the dressing until you are ready (>33) SALADS 235 It also may be varied by adding plain or tarragon vinegar, whipped cream, a half-teaspoonful of powdered coriander seed, chervil, or onion juice. FRENCH DRESSING i tablespoonful of vinegar 3 tablespoonfuls of olive oil yd teaspoon ful of salt y£ teaspoonful of black pepper Put the salt and pepper in a bowl, add gradually the oil, rub and mix until the salt is thoroughly dissolved; then add by degrees the vinegar, stir continually for one minute, and it is ready to use. Tarragon vinegar may be used for this dressing instead of plain vinegar. SALAD DRESSING Yolks of three hard-boiled eggs Yolk of one raw egg i tablespoonful of vinegar i gill of olive oil y2 teaspoonful of salt Dash of cayenne Mash the cooked yolks until perfectly smooth, then add the raw one, and work with an elastic-bladed knife for five minutes, then add the salt and cayenne, mix again, and add the oil drop by drop, stirring rapidly and steadily all the while; then add the vinegar by degrees, and it is fin- ished. More oil and vinegar may be added to this if a greater quantity of dressing is required. SALAD DRESSING WITHOUT OIL ^ pint of milk 2 even tablespoonfuls of corn- Yolks of three eggs starch Butter the size of a walnut 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of black peppei Put the milk on to boil. Moisten the corn starch with a 236 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK very little cold milk, add to the boiling milk, and stir con- tinually until it boils and thickens; then add the yolks of the eggs well beaten, cook one minute, take from the fire, add the salt, pepper, butter and vinegar, stand away until cold, and it is ready to use. CREAM SALAD DRESSING Yolks of three hard-boiled eggs i tablespoonful of melted butter Yolk of one raw egg 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar i gill of thick cream }4 teaspoonful of salt Y^ teaspoonful of black pepper Mash the hard-boiled yolks until fine, then add the raw yolk and work with an elastic-bladed knife to a perfectly smooth paste; then add the salt, pepper and melted butter, then by degrees the cream, working and stirring all the while; now add the vinegar, mix well, and it is finished. CHICKEN SALAD Draw, singe, and boil the chicken same as directed for Chicken Croquettes. When done, and perfectly cold, re- move the skin and cut the meat into dice. If you want it very nice, use only the white meat, save the dark for cro- quettes. After you have cut it, stand it away in a cold place until wanted. Wash and cut the white parts of celery into pieces about a half-inch long, throw them into a bowl of cold water and also stand them away until wanted. To every pint of chicken allow two-thirds of a pint of celery, and a cup and a half of mayonnaise dressing. When ready to serve, dry the celery and mix with the chicken, dust lightly with salt, white pepper or cayenne, then mix with it the mayonnaise. Serve on a cold dish garnished with the white celery tips. SALADS 237 One cup of whipped cream may be added to every half-pint of mayonnaise, when ready to use it. It makes the dressing lighter with less of the oily flavor. The liquor in which the chicken was boiled may be used for soup. VEAL SALAD Veal salad may be made precisely the same as Chicken Salad, using cold roast or boiled veal instead of chicken. MAYONNAISE OF SWEETBREADS Clean and parboil one pair of sweetbreads, then throw them into cold water for a half-hour. Remove the fat and skin, and cover them with fresh boiling water; add a tea- spoonful of salt and simmer gently for twenty minutes. When done, stand away to cool. When cold, cut into thin slices. Wash and dry the tender leaves from one head of lettuce. Rub the bottom of a soup dish with onion and make in it nearly a half-pint of mayonnaise. Place a thin slice of onion in the centre of your salad dish, arrange the lettuce leaves around it; mix the sweetbreads carefully with the mayonnaise, and put in the centre of the dish. Serve. This is a delicious salad, and if prepared as directed will have only the faintest suspicion of onion. Tarragon vinegar added to the mayonnaise is a great improvement. CRAB SALAD i dozen crabs J^ pint of mayonnaise dressing 2 heads of salad Boil the crabs the same as for Deviled Crabs. When cold, pick out the meat, and put it away until wanted. Wash and dry the salad carefully, and make the mayonnaise. 238 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK When ready to serve, mix the crab meat and the mayon- naise together. Garnish the dish with the white leaves of the salad, place the crabs in the centre of the dish, and serve. Or, the salad may be served in the back shell of the crabs, garnished with the tiny salad leaves. FISH SALAD Cold boiled or baked fish may be made into salad, allow- ing one head of lettuce and a half-pint of mayonnaise to every pint of the picked fish. LOBSTER SALAD 2 lobsters (weighing four or five pounds) The tender leaves from two heads of lettuce y2 pint of mayonnaise Boil the lobsters as directed for Boiled Lobster. When cold, take out the meat, being careful not to break the body or tail shells, and rejecting the stomach, the black vein running along the back of the tail, and the spongy fingers on the outside of the body. Cut the meat into dice with a silver knife, and stand it in a cold place until wanted. Make the mayonnaise. Clean the two tail shells, and one back, in cold water, and with scissors, remove the thin shell from the under side of the tail. Wash and dry the lettuce leaves, put them around the salad dish in two or three layers. Join the shells together in the form of a boat, the body shell in the centre, place them in the salad dish. Mix the mayonnaise and lobster together, put it into this boat. If there is any coral, mash it fine and sprinkle it over the whole. Garnish with a chain of the whites of hard-boiled eggs cut into slices and linked together. Serve immediately. SALADS 239 SALAD OF OYSTER CRABS i pint of oyster crabs ^ pint of mayonnaise i head of lettuce Throw the oyster crabs into boiling salted water for five minutes, drain, and dry very carefully on a soft towel. When ready to use, mix them with the mayonnaise and serve on the crisp lettuce leaves. These come in glass jars already blanched; simply drain, wipe and they are ready to use. OYSTER SALAD Boil twenty oysters in their own liquor five minutes, drain, wash in cold water, then dry and stand away until very cold. When cold, mix with a half-cup of mayonnaise, and serve on crisp salad leaves. MAYONNAISE OF SALMON One pint of cold boiled or canned salmon, free from all bones and skin, and a half-pint of mayonnaise, may be mixed together and served on a bed of crisp salad leaves. SHAD-ROE SALAD Wash one set of shad roes, put them in a saucepan, cover them with boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, put the lid on the saucepan and simmer gently twenty minutes. When done, lift them carefully from the water and stand away until perfectly cold. Make a half-pint of mayonnaise and stand it away also. When ready to serve, remove the skin from the outside of the shad roe and cut them into thin slices. Put one slice of onion in the centre of the salad dish, arrange around it crisp salad leaves, heap the shad roe in the centre, pour over it the mayonnaise, and it is ready to serve. 240 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK SHRIMP SALAD Boil the shrimps as in recipe for Boiled Shrimps, and when cold remove the shells, and stand away until very cold. To every pint of the boiled shrimps allow nearly a half-pint of mayonnaise. When ready to serve, cut the shrimps into small pieces with a silver knife, mix them with the mayon- naise, and serve on crisp salad leaves. Dunbar's or White's canned shrimps are very nice, and may be used for salad. After removing them from the can, wash them in cold water, dry them with a soft towel, and they are ready to use. Sardines and anchovies may also be made into salads. SALAD OF ASPARAGUS TOPS i pint of asparagus tops The rule for French dressing Boil the tops in salted boiling water for fifteen minutes, drain, throw into cold water, and let stand until ready to use. Then dry carefully with a soft napkin, put them into the salad dish, pour over the French dressing; let stand about ten minutes, and serve. BEET SALAD Slice, and cut into dice, sufficient cold boiled beets to make one pint; heap them in the centre of a salad dish and cover with a half-pint of sauce Tartare. Garnish with par- sley, and serve very cold. SALAD OF STRING BEANS Trim one pint of very young beans, put them in a sauce- pan, cover with boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt and boil thirty minutes. When done, drain and throw them into cold water until very cold, then dry them with a soft towel, cut each bean in four pieces lengthwise, arrange them neatly on a salad-dish, cover them with French dres- sing, let stand one hour, and serve. SALADS 241 CAULIFLOWER SALAD i medium-sized head of cauliflower y2 pint of mayonnaise Boil the cauliflower as directed, throw into cold water until wanted, then pick it apart carefully, dry with a soft napkin, put in the salad dish, pour over the mayonnaise, let it stand fifteen minutes, and serve. CELERY SALAD Cut the white stalks of celery into pieces a half-inch long. To every pint of these pieces allow a half-pint of mayon- naise dressing. Dust the celery lightly with salt and pepper, mix it with the dressing, heap it on a cold plate, garnish with white tips of the celery, and serve immediately. Do not mix the celery and dressing until you are ready to use the salad. COLD SLAW i quart of cut cabbage 2 eggs y^ cup of cream (sour is best) 1 teaspoonful of salt 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar A little pepper Butter the size of a walnut Cut the cabbage very fine and put it in an earthen bowl. Put the vinegar on to boil. Beat the eggs until light, add to them the cream and butter. Now add to these the boil- ing vinegar. Stir over the fire until boiling hot, add the salt and pepper, and pour over the cabbage, and it is ready to serve when very cold. CUCUMBER SALAD 2 young cucumbers y£ teaspoonful of black pepper y2 teaspoonful of salt 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar Pare and slice the cucumbers very thin, soak them in cold water one hour, then drain and dry. Put them in your salad bowl, sprinkle them with the salt and pepper, and pour over the vinegar. Serve immediately. 242 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK EGG SALAD Boil six eggs fifteen minutes; while they are boiling, make a French dressing and add to it one tablespoonful of tar- ragon vinegar, one tablespoonful of onion juice and one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley. When the eggs are done remove the shells, cut them into slices, and arrange them on a salad dish so that one overlaps the other; pour the dressing over while the eggs are still hot, stand away in a cold place for one or two hours, garnish with parsley, and serve. LETTUCE SALAD Choose the crisp centre leaves of the head lettuce. Wash them, if necessary, and dry thoroughly and carefully with a soft towel. Break or tear the leaves into convenient pieces with a silver fork. Cover with a French dressing, turn the whole upside down to mix it well, and serve immediately. It is customary in this country to serve mayonnaise with lettuce salad, but after one has had a heavy dinner the simple French dressing is more refreshing. The following may be made and served the same as lettuce salad:— Endive Water-cress Nasturtium blossoms Sorrel Peppergrass Turnip tops Dandelions Corn-salad MACEDOINE SALAD i boiled beet i boiled carrot 2 tablespoonfuls of cooked i small onion green peas i root of celery i dozen boiled string beans y2 pint of mayonnaise y2 cup of boiled asparagus tops dressing Cut the beet, beans, carrot, and celery into small pieces; chop the onion very fine; mix all the vegetables carefully together, then add the mayonnaise, and serve immediately. If the vegetables are properly prepared, this makes a delicious salad. SALADS 243 The vegetables may be purchased in bottles, ready prepared, from the grocer. POTATO SALAD 3 good-sized potatoes 9 tablespoonfuls of olive oil 1 teaspoonful of salt 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar 1 saltspoonful of black 1 good-sized onion pepper 3 or 4 sprigs of parsley Pare and boil the potatoes. While they are boiling, pre- pare the dressing. Put the salt and pepper into a bowl, and add gradually the oil; stir until the salt is thoroughly dis- solved; add gradually the vinegar, stirring all the while. Chop the onion very, very fine. When the potatoes are done, cut them into thin slices, mix them carefully with the onion, then add the dressing, and turn them upside down without breaking the potatoes. Dish, and stand away in a cold place for one or two hours. Sprinkle with the parsley chopped very fine. The dish may be garnished with parsley and pickled beets cut in fancy shapes. TOMATO SALAD 6 tomatoes }4 cup of mayonnaise dressing The crisp part of one head of lettuce Peel the tomatoes without scalding, and put them on ice until they are very, very cold. Make the mayonnaise, and stand it on the ice until wanted. The lettuce may also be washed and dried. When ready to serve, cut the tomatoes in halves. Make twelve little nests with two or three salad leaves each, arrange uniformly on the dish, place half a tomato in each nest, put a tablespoonful of mayonnaise on each tomato, and serve immediately. FRUIT SALAD DRESSING No. 1 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar 1 gill of sherry J4 teaspoonful of cinnamon 2 tablespoonfuls of Madeira Mix the sugar and cinnamon together, add the wine, and stir constantly until the sugar is dissolved. ADDITIONAL RECIPES PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK DINNER-GIVING FOR SENSIBLE PEOPLE Little dinners, pretty and enjoyable, are, to my mind, the only rational way of entertaining. If people in ordi- nary circumstances are to make them a success, they must try no elaborate dishes, no long dinners which it is neces- sary to get some one in to cook; for this is always evident, and makes dinner-giving both a burden and an expense. If little dinners are to be successful, they must bring neither, otherwise they lapse into long dinners, too often stupid, with the hostess too wearied to be bright, after a day spent in a hot kitchen, helping her incompetent cook to struggle with unaccustomed, and hence difficult, dishes. As one course after another conies on, their success is her chief anxiety, rather than the entertainment of her guests. Inexpressibly better a simple joint, with roast potatoes, and a fresh, bright hostess, whose only thought is the intellectual entertainment of her guests. The elaborate and conventional dinner, complete at all points, which the dinner-giving of a century and a half has evolved, is beyond any but the very wealthy. Very few of them succeed in giving it, and still fewer of their guests enjoy it. Its triple triplets of oysters, soup, and (*47) 248 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK fish, the releve, entrees, and roast, a pause of rum punch to stimulate languishing digestion, game with salad, sweets and ice, coffee to close, and a bewildering series of wines, with an alcoholic appetizer to begin and end, have, how- ever, had their effect in making many feel that a formal dinner must only follow this model from afar. So, with only the resources of a simple household, they compass, with infinite labor, oysters, soup, and fish, add some made dish to the meat, and put salad before and ice cream after the pudding or sweets. But success here, with a moderate income, is as rare as success with the long dinner at the complete table. Try to grasp the theory of the elaborate edifice which custom and convention has piled up, and see if your own resources cannot reproduce its purpose with better success. After having carefully analyzed it, you will see at once that the most complex dinner simply aims to begin with something of easy digestion, slide by some trans- ition to the roast, and make sure that through salad, sweets and coffee, the last half of your dinner shall interest the appetite as well as satisfy hunger. You, have, therefore, soup, roast, dessert, which make up the usual dinner of thoroughly civilized people, and below you will see how, with but moderate resources, you may so vary this as to make a "little dinner" complete and satisfying in itself; more, the most elaborate meal at Delmonico's cannot do. To begin with, don't have too many people. It is as had as too many courses. Until years of experience have taught you how to conduct and carry on the conversation and social contact of eight or ten, six at the utmost are enough for a successful dinner. Get together around an evening dinner table, six of the pleasantest people whom you know (including yourself), put at defiance most of the traditions for a dinner party, and success will be quite sure to be the result. I say " night," because there is an inde- DINNER-GIVING 249 scribable something about the meal, together with the hour and the lights and all, that seems to make people talk as they never talk at a noon dinner or at a tea. Have only what your cook can do easily, and, above all things, never try anything that you have not had suffi- ciently often when you are by yourselves to be quite sure she can do it well. If you are too far from the sea for oysters on the shell to be quite perfect, or even if you are not, begin with soup. Follow this, perhaps, with cream macaroni. It is more easily prepared than fish in any form, and almost every one likes it. This should be suc- ceeded by the usual roast, or something of the sort, with which serve one vegetable only, beside rice or potatoes. Then, of course, comes a salad, and after that some sweet as a dessert. East India preserved ginger is one of the nicest things possible, and not at all expensive, as a jar cost- ing $l-5° wiM make several desserts. Serve with it some wafers or delicate, thin water-crackers, and be sure to serve it from the jar in which it comes, standing the jar on some pretty plate. lastly, comes black coffee. S. W. R. WILLIAMS. MENUS It would, indeed, be a difficult task to add to what has already been given in modern bills of fare, but the few following may be of use in small and less pretentious families:— BREAKFAST Oat Meal Mush with Whipped Cream Broiled Steak Stewed Potatoes Quick Muffins Coffee Fruit 250 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK BREAKFAST Fried Indian Mush, Maple Syrup Cecils of Cold Meat Saratoga Potatoes Flannel Cakes Cocoa Fruit in Season BREAKFAST (SPRING) Small Hominy Boiled in Milk Lamb Chops, Broiled Lyonnaise Potatoes Gems Coffee Orange Salad BREAKFAST (SPRING) Flannel Cakes Coffee Fried Chicken, Cream Sauce Scalloped Potatoes Salad with French Dressing BREAKFAST IN LENT Oat Meal Mush with Whipped Cream Broiled Oysters Beauregard^Eggs Muffins i Coffee or Chocolate Pomegranates BREAKFAST (SUMMER) Strawberries without Stemming Broiled Tomatoes, Cream Gravy New Potatoes, Boiled • Cheese Ramakins Rolls Coffee DINNER-GIVING 261 LUNCHEON Bouillon Orange Sherbet Served in Orange Skins Fish a la Reine in Paper Cases Chicken Croquettes French Peas Terrapin with Saratoga Potatoes Boned Chicken Wafers Cheese Montrose Pudding Black Coffee LUNCHEON Roman Punch Served in Ice Tumblers Sweetbreads a la Cr&me Served in Paper Cases Partridges on Toast Salmon Croquettes, Sauce Hollandaise Cheese Ramakins Charlotte Russe Black CofTee DINNER (SPRING) Julienne Soup Oysters a la Cr6me Roast Lamb, Mint Sauce Peas New Potatoes Lettuce, French Dressing Crackers and Cheese Black Coffee DINNER (SUMMER) Tomato Soup with Croutons Boiled Sheep's Head, Sauce Hollandaise Fillet of Beef with Mushroom Sauce Potatoes Peas Corn in the Husk Tomato Salad Cheese and Wafers Strawberry Bavarian Cream 252 PHILADELPHIA COOK POOK DINNER (AUTUMN) Puree of Beans Stuffed Cabbage with Cream Sauce Roast Chicken, Giblet Sauce Mashed Potatoes Stewed Tomatoes Rice Croquettes Celery with Mayonnaise Cheese Fingers Wigwam Pudding Black Coffee DINNER (WINTER) Oysters on the Half Shell Consomme Cream Macaroni Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce Currant Jelly Mashed Potatoes Peas Cauliflower Lettuce with French Dressing Water Crackers Neufchatel Lemon Sponge Black Coffee SUPPER Fried Chicken Waffles Stuffed Potatoes Sliced Tomatoes Sardines Fruit Iced Tea EGGS To ascertain the freshness of an egg without breaking it, hold it before a strong light, or toward the sun, and if the yolk appears round, and the white surrounding it clear, the chances are it is good. Or, put them in a bucket of water; the fresh ones will sink immediately, those that float are doubtful. The shell of a fresh egg looks dull and porous. To preserve eggs, it is only necessary to close the pores of the shell. This may be done by varnishing, or by dip- ping in melted suet, and then packing them in salt with the small end downward. Or, make a lime water by pouring one gallon of boiling water over one pound of lime; when cold and settled, pour it off carefully into a stone jar over the eggs, which must be packed with the small ends downward; keep in a cool, dark place. I have used this recipe myself with per- fect success, the eggs being fresh and sweet at the end of three months. BAKED EGGS 6 eggs 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped chicken 2 mushrooms, chopped fine i tablespoonful of chopped parsley 0>53> 254 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK . ]/?, teaspoonful of ground mace Dash of cayenne Salt to taste Boil the eggs fifteen minutes, throw them into cold water, shell them, cut them into halves crosswise, cut a little slice from the bottom to make them stand. Take out the yolks, mash them fine, add to them all the other ingredients, mix thoroughly. Fill the hollowed whites and heap up in a tiny pyramid, brush over with the yolk of a raw egg, and put in the oven to brown; while they are browning, broil a slice of ham, cut it into as many squares as there are eggs. Make a Cream Sauce (see recipe). Serve the eggs on the squares of ham, and pour the cream sauce around them. BEAUREGARD EGGS 5 eggs J^ pint of milk i tablespoonful of corn starch Lump of butter, size of a 5 squares of toast walnut Salt and pepper to taste Cover the eggs with boiling water and boil for twenty min- utes. Take off their shells, chop the whites fine and rub the yolks through a sieve. Do not mix them. Now put the milk on to boil, rub the butter and corn starch together, and add to the boiling milk. Now add the whites, salt and pepper. Put the toast on a hot dish, cover it with a layer of this white sauce, then a layer of the yolks, then the remainder of the whites, and then the remainder of the yolks. Sprinkle the top with a little salt and pepper, stand in the oven for a minute or two, and serve. This is good and sightly. EGGS a la BECHAMEL 6 eggs i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour i gill of white or veal stock i gill of cream Yolk of one egg Salt and pepper to taste Boil the eggs fifteen minutes; while they are boiling, prepare EGGS 255 the sauce as follows: Melt the butter in a frying-pan, being careful not to brown it; add to it the flour, mix until smooth; add the stock and cream, and stir continually until it boils; add salt and pepper, and stand it over the tea kettle to keep warm while you shell the eggs. Cut the whites into thin shreds, chop the yolks into tiny squares, then pile them in the centre of a shallow, heated dish, and arrange the whites around them. Give the sauce a stir and pour it around the eggs. BOILED EGGS The fresher laid the eggs are, the better. Put them in boiling water; if you like the white set, about two min- utes' boiling is enough. A new-laid egg will take three minutes, if you wish the yolk set. To boil hard, for salads or made dishes, will take ten minutes. EGGS FOR BREAKFAST 6 eggs i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour 2 tablespoonfuls of cream 1 slice of onion 1 bay leaf 6 mushrooms y2 pint of white stock Boil the eggs for fifteen minutes. Remove the shells, take out the yolks, being careful not to break them; cut the whites and the mushrooms into dice. Put the butter on to melt, add the flour, mix until smooth; add the stock and cream, stir continually until it boils; add the salt and pep- per, the whites of the eggs, and the mushrooms, stir over the fire until it comes again to a boil, throw in the yolks and let it stand over the tea kettle for one or two minutes until the yolks are heated. Serve in a small shallow dish. EGGS a la CREME 6 eggs 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour y2 pint of milk J^ teaspoonful of salt Pepper to taste 256 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Boil the eggs fifteen minutes, remove the shells, and cut them in halves crosswise. Slice a little bit off the bottom to make them stand. Put the butter in a frying-pan to melt, then add the flour, mix until smooth, add the milk and stir continually until it boils, add the salt and pepper. Stand the eggs on a heated platter, pour the sauce over and around them. Serve very hot. DEVILED EGGS i2 eggs i large teaspoonful of French mustard 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of cold boiled ham or tongue i tablespoonful of olive oil Salt and cayenne to taste Cover the eggs with warm water, and boil fifteen minutes, then throw them into cold water for half an hour; this pre- vents the whites from turning dark. Remove the shells, and cut the eggs in halves lengthwise. Take out the yolks carefully without breaking the whites. Rub the yolks to a smooth paste with the mustard and oil, then add the ham or tongue finely chopped, the salt and pepper, and mix thoroughly. Fill the hollowed whites with this mixture, and serve on a bed of water-cress or salad. For picnics or garden parties, put the two correspond- ing halves together and press them closely. Cut white tissue paper into pieces six inches square, fringe the opposite sides, roll one egg in each paper, twist the fringed ends same as the candied secrets. Serve on a napkin, in a pretty little basket, garnished with smilax or myrtle. EGGS FONDUE 6 eggs 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of Parmesan ^ teaspoonful of salt i dash of cayenne Beat the eggs with a fork until light, add the salt, pepper EGGS 257 and Parmesan. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying- pan; when hot, turn in the eggs, and stir until thoroughly cooked and smooth. Serve on squares of buttered toast. FRIED EGGS Cut a nice piece of bacon into squares, put these in a frying- pan, and set over a gentle fire, that they may lose their fat. When as much as will freely come out is melted from them, lay them on a warm dish. Break the eggs gently into a saucer, and then slide them into the fat. Fry gently until the yolk is set. Take out with a slice, place on the warm dish, and garnish with the bacon. EGGS IN MARINADE 6 eggs 24 whole cloves 1 pint of vinegar teaspoonful of ground teaspoonful of salt mustard yi teaspoonful of pepper Boil the eggs fifteen minutes. Take off the shells and stick four cloves into each egg. Put the vinegar on to boil. Rub the mustard, salt, and pepper with a little cold vine- gar, to a smooth paste, and add to the vinegar when boiling. Stir over the fire one minute. Put the eggs in a glass fruit jar, pour over them the boiling vinegar, cover, and let stand two weeks. These are nice to serve as an accompaniment to broiled steak. EGGS sur le PLAT Butter the bottom of little egg basins or one large tin dish. Break one egg into each of the basins, being careful not to break the yolk, or six eggs may be broken in the large dish. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and bake in a quick oven until the yolks are set. Serve in the dish in which they are cooked. 258 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK POACHED EGGS Strictly fresh eggs only are fit to poach. The beauty of a poached egg is for the yolk to be seen blushing through the white, which should be just sufficiently hardened to form a veil for the yolk. Have some fresh boiling water in a stew- pan, break the egg into a saucer, remove the pan from the fire and gently slip the egg into it. Now break another, and so on until the bottom o4 the pan is covered. Now put it over a moderate fire, and as soon as the water boils the eggs are ready; take them up with a slice, and neatly round off" the ragged edges of the whites. Serve on buttered toast. SCRAMBLED EGGS Break six eggs in a bowl and beat them gently until all the yolks are broken. Put a piece of butter the size of a wal- nut in a frying-pan and put over the fire to melt; as soon as it is hot, turn in the eggs and stir continually until they are set. Serve immediately. STUFFED EGGS 6 eggs i tablespoonful of melted i tablespoonful of tongue butter or ham Salt and pepper to taste Boil the eggs fifteen minutes. Cut them in halves length- wise, take out the yolks carefully, mash them fine, add the butter, the tongue or ham finely chopped, salt and pepper. Rub together until smooth. Fill the hollowed whites with this, and press the corresponding halves together. Dip them first in egg, then in bread crumbs, then again in egg and again in bread crumbs. Fry in boiling fat. Serve hot with Cream Sauce poured around them. These are delicious but are difficult to make. PLAIN OMELET Put three eggs into a bowl, and give them twelve good vigorous beats with a fork. Put a piece of butter the size of a walnut in a very smooth frying-pan, shake it over the EGGS 259 fire until melted, but not brown, turn in the eggs and shake over a quick fire until they are set; sprinkle with salt and pepper, roll and turn out on a hot dish. It is much easier to make several small omelets than one large one. BENGAL OMELET 6 eggs i tablespoonful of Spanish onion, chopped fine i tablespoonful of chopped parsley Beat the eggs until thoroughly mixed, add the onion and parsley, and make the same as a plain omelet; dust with salt and pepper, and serve. HAM OMELET Make the same as Plain Omelet, and as soon as it begins to thicken, sprinkle over it three tablespoonfuls of finely- chopped ham; roll, and serve. Cheese, Parsley, Jelly and Chicken Omelets are made in the same manner. POTATO OMELET Two boiled potatoes, chopped fine. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan; and, when very hot, add the potatoes. Shake over the fire until a nice brown; then sprinkle with chopped parsley, salt and pepper. Stand them where they will keep warm until you make a plain omelet. When the omelet is partly set, spread over the potatoes, roll, and serve. BREAD OMELET 3 eggs y2 cup of bread crumbs ^ teaspoonful of salt ^ cup of milk i dash of black pepper Piece of butter, size of walnut Beat the eggs separately. Add to the yolks the milk, salt, pepper, and the bread crumbs. Now stir into this care- fully the beaten whites; mix very lightly. Put the butter in a very smooth frying-pan; as soon as hot, turn in the mixture gently, and set it over a clear fire, being very care- 260 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK ful not to burn; shake occasionally, to see that the omelet does not stick, the same as Plain Omelet. Now stand your frying-pan in the oven for a moment to set the middle of the omelet. When done, toss it over on a warm platter to bring the brown side of the omelet uppermost; or, it may be folded in half, and then turned out in the centre of the platter. Serve immediately, or it will fall. SPANISH OMELET 6 eggs 3 tablespoonfuls of milk i medium-sized tomato 5 mushrooms 1 small onion % pound of bacon 1 dash of black pepper % teaspoonful of salt Cut the bacon into very small pieces and fry it until brown; then add to it the tomato, onion, and mushrooms chopped fine; stir and cook for fifteen minutes. Break the eggs in a bowl, and give them twelve vigorous beats with a fork; add to them the salt and pepper. Now put a piece of butter the size of a walnut in a smooth frying-pan, turn it around so as to grease the bottom and sides. When the butter is hot, pour in the eggs and shake over a quick fire until they are set. Now quickly pour the mixture from the other frying-pan over the omelet, fold it over once, and turn it out in the centre of a heated platter, and serve immediately. OMELETTE SOUFFLEE Whites of six eggs Yolks of three eggs Juice of half a lemon 3 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar First grease a quart baking-dish with butter, and then see that the oven is hot. Now beat the whites to a very stiff froth.'beat the yolks, add them to the whites, then the sugar and juice of lemon; stir carefully, and quickly heap into the baking-dish; dredge with powdered sugar and put into the oven. Bake fifteen minutes, or until a golden brown, and serve immediately. It may also be baked in paper cases. VEGETABLES All green vegetables should be freshly gathered, washed well in cold water, and cooked in freshly-boiled water until tender, no longer. After water has boiled for a time it parts with its gases and becomes hard, and most vegetables are better cooked in soft water. It is a well-known fact that split peas, dried beans and lentils do not boil soft in hard water. The salts of lime, sulphate or gypsum coagulate the casein which these seeds contain. In some cases, how- ever, the solvent power of pure, soft water is so great that it destroys the firmness, color and outside covering (skin) of the green vegetables, and allows their juices to pass out into the water. This is especially true of green peas and beans. In these cases, therefore, hard water is better than soft. A teaspoonful of common salt added to every gallon of water hardens it at once. A half-teaspoonful of bi-car- bonate of soda to every gallon of water renders it solt. French books recommend the same quantity of carbonate of ammonia for the latter purpose. Young, green vegetables should be cooked in boiling salted water. Onions, if boiled in pure, soft water, are almost tasteless, and all the after-salting cannot restore to them the sweet saline taste and the strong aroma which they possess when boiled in hard water (salted). (261) 262 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK If green vegetables are wilted, soak them for an hour or two in clear, cold water; never add salt, as it hardens the tissues. Peas, beans and lentils are the most nutritious of all vegetable substances. They are said to contain as much carbon (heat-giving food) as wheat, and almost double the amount of nitrogen (muscle-forming food). The nitro- genous element of these vegetables consists chiefly of veg- etable casein. Lentils afford the most concentrated form of vegetable diet, and in olden times their nutritious value was fully appreciated. Esau sold his birthright for a mess of red lentil pottage. We read that the Pyramids were built by men who lived on lentils, garlic and water. A dish served to persons of distinction in the time of Pharaoh was com- posed of lentils, and with this high reputation they are almost unknown in this country, except to the Germans, who use them for soup, which, though made entirely with- out meat, is most nutritious. The potato, next to wheat, is the most important food derived from the vegetable kingdom. We may class it among the starch vegetables. It contains but little muscle- forming food, and therefore should be eaten with lean meats or other nitrogenous food, supplying the elements wanting in that food, and correcting the influence of a too-concen- trated form of nutriment. Potatoes are three-fourths water; the remaining one-fourth contains a large proportion of starch, with a small quantity of albumen, casein and gluten, dissolved in its juices. In the spring the sprouts begin to grow at the expense of the starch in the potato; therefore, at this season they are less mealy and nutritious. The sprouts should be rubbed off as soon as they appear, or they will exhaust the starch. When they are wilted in this way they are improved by VEGETABLES 263 being soaked in cold water several hours before cooking, and put on to boil in cold water. The cooking of potatoes is indeed an art; they are dressed in some way in almost every family every day, and no vegetable is so often poorly served. Observe the fol- lowing rules and you will have no trouble: i. Be careful in the choice of your potatoes; choose those of medium size, free from blemishes and of a yellow- ish-white color; and, if possible, acquaint yourself with the soil in which they were raised—those from a rich, heavy soil being more nutritious. 2. As the nutritious part of the potato lies near the skin, if you pare at all, do it very sparingly. As it con- tains potash, a constituent part of the blood, which is soluble in water, we would advise boiling in the jacket. 3. If your potatoes are not wilted, put them on to boil with just boiling water enough to cover them, place over a moderate fire to boil slowly until nearly done, then throw in a half-cup of cold water, which will chill the surface; by this you render the potato mealy throughout. Cook until soft enough to admit a fork. 4. When done, drain off every drop of water, uncover the saucepan, sprinkle the potatoes with salt, to absorb the moisture, and stand on the back part of the stove to dry, shaking them over, now and then, to expose every side of the potato to the air. Remove the skins quickly. 5. Serve in an uncovered dish. Potatoes are more wholesome baked than boiled. Cabbage-leaves are rich in gluten, therefore very nu- tritious. The mushroom, also, is said to contain 56 per cent, of gluten, and dried cauliflower contains more than either. Turnips, carrots, parsnips, and beets contain very little 264 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK nourishment, but for this reason are valuable adjuncts to concentrated food, and produce the necessary waste for proper intestinal action. FRENCH ARTICHOKES French artichokes have a large, scaly head, like the cone of a pine tree. Strip off the coarse outer leaves, cut the stalks off about an inch from the bottom, wash well in cold water, then throw them in boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil slowly until the outer leaves are tender; then take from the fire, put them upside down on a plate to drain. Arrange in a circle upon a hot dish, the tops up, pour over them Bechamel or sauce Hollandaise, and serve. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES Wash and scrape the artichokes, throw them into cold water, and soak two hours, then cover them with boiling water, and boil until tender; watch closely, or they will harden again. Serve with Cream Sauce. PICKLED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES Boil the artichokes as directed in preceding recipe, drain and put them in a stone jar. To every quart of artichokes allow one pint of cider vinegar, one bay leaf, one slice of onion, four whole cloves, and a blade of mace. Put the vinegar in a porcelain-lined kettle with all the other ingre- dients, stand it over a moderate fire, and bring slowly to boiling point, then pour it over the artichokes, and stand away to cool. They will be ready to use in twenty-four hours, and will keep two weeks. VEGETABLES 265 BOILED ASPARAGUS Wash the asparagus carefully in cold water, and cut off the tough white ends. Scrape the white part which remains, and throw into cold water to soak for thirty minutes. Now tie it in small bundles, and put it into a kettle of boiling water, and boil for twenty minutes; then add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil ten minutes longer. While the asparagus is boiling, toast squares of bread, cutting off the crust; but- ter while hot, and lay on a heated platter. Take up the as- paragus, drain, cut the strings, and heap it on the toast, the heads all one way. Put a tablespoonful of butter to melt, add to it one tablespoonful of flour; mix until smooth; now add a half-pint of the water in which the asparagus was boiled, stir continually until it boils, season it with salt and black pepper to taste, pour it over the asparagus, and serve. STEWED ASPARAGUS Wash the asparagus well in cold water, then cut it in pieces about an inch long, rejecting all the tougher parts. Put it in a kettle, cover with boiling water, and boil thirty min- utes; then put it in a colander to drain. Now put it in a saucepan, pour over it a half-pint of cream, add a table- spoonful of butter, salt and black pepper; let it boil up once, and serve. ASPARAGUS IN AMBUSH i quart of asparagus tops i pint of milk 9 stale breakfast rolls 4 eggs 1 large tablespoonful of butter Salt and black pepper to taste Wash the asparagus tops, boil fifteen minutes, and drain them in a colander. Cut the tops off the rolls, and take out the crumb, then set them open in the oven to dry, lay- ing each top by the roll from which it was taken. Put the 266 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the eggs until light, then stir them in the boiling milk, and stir until it be- gins to thicken; add the butter, salt, and pepper, and take from the fire. Chop the asparagus tops, then add them to the milk. Take the rolls from the oven, fill them with this mixture, put on the tops, and serve hot. Good. LIMA BEANS Cover the beans with freshly-boiled soft water, and boil thirty minutes; drain, add salt, pepper, and butter, or a half-cup of boiling cream. A sprig of mint may be boiled with the beans, and removed before serving. LIMA BEANS (DRIED) Soak one pint of beans in warm water over night. In the morning drain off this water, and cover with fresh warm water. Two hours before dinner-time, drain again, cover them with boiling soft water, and boil thirty minutes; drain again; cover with fresh boiling soft water, and boil until tender. Add a teaspoonful of salt after they have been boiling an hour. When done, drain them, dredge with a tablespoonful of flour; add one tablespoonful of butter, a half-pint of cream, salt and pepper to taste; or, they may be served with butter, salt, and pepper. All shelled beans, such as butter, kidney, and the small French beans, are cooked the same as lima beans. STRING BEANS Break the blossom end of the bean, and pull it back to remove the string. Then pare a thin strip from the other edge of the pod. In this way only are you sure that every string is removed. Cut the beans into pieces an inch long, and lay them in clear, cold water for thirty minutes. Drain VEGETABLES 2&7 them, put into a saucepan, cover with boiling water, and boil one hour. Drain; stir into them one tablespoonful of butter; salt and pepper to taste. A half-pound of ham may be cut into"pieces and boiled with the beans to give them flavor. BEAN POLENTA i pint of small white soup beans \i/2 tablespoonfuIs of molasses y teaspoonful of French mustard i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of vinegar Salt and pepper to taste Wash the beans, and soak them over night in lukewarm water. In the morning, drain off this water, cover with fresh, cold water, bring slowly to a boil, and boil slowly one hour; drain again, cover with one quart of fresh boiling water, and boil slowly another hour. When done, press through a colander, return to the kettle, add the but- ter, molasses, mustard, salt, pepper, and vinegar; stir, and boil ten minutes. Serve in a vegetable tureen. BEAN CROQUETTES i pint of white soup beans i tablespoonful of molasses i tablespoonful of vinegar i tablespoonful of butter Salt and cayenne to taste Boil the beans as directed in preceding recipe. When done, drain, and press the beans through a colander, then add the other ingredients, mix well and stand away to cool. When cold, form into small balls, dip first in egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. PUREE OF BEANS i quart of dried beans i pound of ham i bay leaf i onion i carrot i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste 268 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Wash and soak the beans in lukewarm water over night. In the morning, drain, cover with fresh cold water, boil one hour, drain again, and just cover again with fresh boil- ing water, add a quarter-teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda, the ham, bay leaf, onion and carrot; boil until they will mash easily under light pressure. When done, remove the ham and press the beans through a colander. Return them to the kettle, add the butter and sufficient cream to make the puree the desired thickness. Season with salt and pepper, let boil up once, and serve. Purees of dried peas, lentils and split peas are made the same as puree of dried beans. BOILED BEETS Wash carefully, but do not cut or scrape them. If the skin is broken before cooking, they lose their flavor and color in the boiling water. Young beets will cook tender in one hour. Old ones will require four hours. If very tough and wilted they will never become tender. When done, throw them into a pan of cold water and quickly rub off the skins. Cut them in slices, pour over them a tablespoonful of melted butter, dust with salt and pepper, and they are ready to serve. The cold ones left over may be covered with cold vine- gar and used as pickles. BROCCOLI Pick off the leaves and cut the stalk close to the bottom of the bunch. Lay in cold water half an hour. Tie it in a cheese-cloth to prevent breaking; put into a kettle of salted boiling water, and boil rapidly twenty minutes. Take it out carefully, untie the cheese-cloth, lay the broccoli in a hot dish, pour over it a half-pint of Cream Sauce, and it is ready to serve. VEGETABLES 269 BRUSSELS SPROUTS i quart of sprouts i tablespoonful of salt J^ gallon of water Pick off all the dead leaves from the sprouts, wash them in cold water, then put them into the water, which must be boiling, add the salt and a quarter-teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda. Boil rapidly, with the saucepan un- covered, twenty minutes, then drain in a colander, and serve in a heated dish with a sauceboat of Drawn Butter. BOILED CABBAGE Select a heavy white head. Remove the outside leaves, cut in quarters and soak in cold water one hour, then drain and cover with boiling water, let stand fifteen minutes; drain again, and press out all the water. Now put the cabbage in a kettle nearly filled with boiling water; add a teaspoonful of salt, and a small piece of a Chili pepper; cover and boil one hour, if the cabbage is young; two hours, if old. The Chili pepper is supposed to diminish the un- pleasant odor. CORNED BEEF AND CABBAGE Wash the meat in cold water. Put it in a large kettle and cover with cold water. Simmer gently for two hours. In the meantime, remove the outside leaves from a hard white head of cabbage, cut it in quarters and soak in cold water one hour. After the meat has been simmering two hours, add the cabbage, and simmer one and a half hours longer. When done, put the meat in the centre of a large dish with the cabbage around it. Serve with it tomato catsup, mus- tard or horseradish. STEWED CABBAGE Cut a small head of cabbage in halves, soak in cold water one hour, then drain and shake dry. Remove the stalk or 270 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK hard part, and chop the remainder very fine. Put it in a stewing-pan with boiling water enough to cover, and boil twenty minutes. Drain in a colander. Turn into a heated dish, and pour over it Cream Sauce. STUFFED CABBAGE For this select a nice head of Savoy cabbage. Pour over it boiling water, let stand fifteen minutes, drain, scald again and let stand thirty minutes. Drain and shake until dry. Make the stuffing as follows: Wash two heaping tablespoon - fuls of rice in cold water, then mix it with a half-pound of sausage meat, add a tablespoonful of onion and a table- spoonful of chopped parsley; mix all well together. Open the cabbage carefully to the very centre; put in a half-tea- spoonful of the mixture, fold over two or three of the little leaves; now cover these with a layer of the mixture, fold over this the next layer of leaves, and so on until each layer is stuffed. Press all firmly together, tie in a piece of cheese-cloth, put it into a kettle of salted boiling water, and boil two hours. When done, carefully remove the cloth, stand the cabbage in a deep round dish, pour over it Cream Sauce, and serve very hot. RED CABBAGE a la FLAMANDE Take off the outer leaves of a hard head of red cabbage and cut it in quarters. Scald, drain, and chop fine. Put it into a stewing-pan with a tablespoonful of butter, one onion, one bay leaf, two cloves, a teaspoonful of salt, and a small piece of Chili pepper. Simmer slowly for one hour, stirring occasionally. Take out the bay leaf, add a table- spoonful of fresh butter, and serve. SAUERKRAUT Shred the cabbage fine. Line the bottom and sides of a small keg with the green cabbage leaves, put in a layer of VEGETABLES 271 the cabbage about three inches thick, cover with four ounces of salt and pound down well, then another layer of cabbage and salt, and so on until the keg is full. Put a board on top of the cabbage, and on this a heavy weight, and stand in a moderately warm place to ferment. The cabbage sinks when the fermentation begins, and the liquor rises to the surface over the cover. Skim off the scum and stand the keg in a cool, dry cellar, and it is ready to use. Cover it closely each time any is taken out. When you use it, wash it in warm water, and boil it with corned beef or salt pork the same as cabbage. * KOHL-RABI Kohl-rabi, or kale-turnip, as it is sometimes called, is a cultivated variety of kale or cabbage, distinguished by the swelling of the stem, just above the ground, in a turnip form, to the size of a man's fist; the larger leaf-stalks springing from the swollen part. This swollen part is used for food. It may be served according to any of the recipes given for turnips; or, uncooked in slices—the same as radishes. STEWED CARROTS 3 good-sized carrots i teaspoonful of salt i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour y? pint of milk Salt and pepper to taste Pare and quarter the carrots. Put them in a saucepan and cover them with boiling water; add the salt and let them boil one hour and a half. When done, drain, place them on a hot dish, and stand over boiling water to keep warm. Now put the butter in a frying-pan, let it melt; add the flour, and mix. Do not brown. Now add the milk, salt and pepper. Stir until it boils, and is smooth. Pour over the carrots, and serve. 272 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK BOILED CAULIFLOWER Pick off the outer leaves and cut off the stem close to the bottom of the flowerets. Wash well in cold water, then soak with the top downward in clear, cold water for one hour. Then tie it in a piece of cheese-cloth, to prevent breaking. Stand it in a kettle of boiling water with the stem downward, add a teaspoonful of salt, cover the kettle, and boil twenty or thirty minutes, until the cauliflower is tender. When done, lift it carefully from the water, undo the cloth, and stand the cauliflower in a round, shallow dish, stem downward. Pour over it Cream Sauce, and serve. STEWED CAULIFLOWER Choose those that are close and white. Pick off the outer leaves and break apart. Wash, and soak in cold water for a half-hour. Then put in a kettle of boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil briskly until the stalks feel tender (about twenty minutes). When done, take up with a skimmer, that you may not break it. Toast squares of bread, butter them while hot, arrange the cauliflower neatly on them, and serve with Allemande sauce. CAULIFLOWER au GRATIN Boil the cauliflower as directed in recipe for Boiled Cauli- flower. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan; when melted, add a tablespoonful of flour; mix until smooth, add a half-pint of milk; stir continually until it boils; add a half-teaspoonful of salt and four tablespoon- fuls of grated cheese (Parmesan is best), pour this over the cauliflower, and serve. VEGETABLES 273 STEWED CELERY The green stalks that are not attractive on the table may be used in this way: Scrape and wash them clean. Cut in pieces one inch long, and soak in cold water for fifteen minutes; then put them into a saucepan of boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil thirty minutes, or until tender. When done, drain in a colander and throw into cold water while you make the sauce. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan; and, when melted, add one tablespoonful of flour; mix until smooth; add a half-pint of milk, and-stir continually until it boils; then add three tablespoonfuls of the water in which the celery was boiled, salt, and white pepper to taste. Add the celery to this sauce, stir until thoroughly heated through, and it is ready to serve. CELERY au JUS Scrape and wash the celery. Cut it in pieces one iu. h long; then put in a saucepan, cover with boiling stock, add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil thirty minutes. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan and stir until a dark brown; add to it one tablespoonful of flour, mix until smooth. Drain the celery, then add a half-pint of the liquor in which it was boiled to the butter and flour; stir continually until it boils, then add salt and pepper to taste. Put the celery in a heated dish, pour over it the sauce, and serve. CELERY ROOT Pare one dozen celery roots, throw them in cold water and soak a half-hour. Then put them in a saucepan of boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil thirty minutes, or until tender. When done, drain and cut into slices. Cover with Cream Sauce, and serve. 274 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK STEWED CHESTNUTS Remove the shells from one pint of chestnuts, cover with boiling water and let blanch fifteen minutes, then remove the brown skin. Put them in a saucepan, cover with boil- ing water, boil fifteen minutes; then add a half-teaspoonful of salt and boil ten minutes longer, or until you can pierce them with a fork. When done, drain, turn into a heated dish, pour over them Cream Sauce, and serve. BOILED CHESTNUTS Prepare and boil one pint of chestnuts as directed in pre- ceding recipe. When done, drain, mash fine, and press through a colander; add a tablespoon ful of butter, salt and pepper to taste. Serve the same as mashed potatoes. CHESTNUTS WITH BROWN SAUCE Remove the shells from one pint of chestnuts, cover them with boiling water and blanch fifteen minutes, then peel off the thin, brown skin. Put them into a saucepan, cover with boiling stock, and boil thirty minutes, or until you can pierce them with a fork. When done, drain, and save the stock in which they were boiled. Put one tablespoon- ful of butter into a frying-pan to brown; when brown, add one tablespoonful of flour, mix until smooth; then add a half-pint of the stock in which the chestnuts were boiled, stir continually until it boils, add salt and pepper to taste, pour over the chestnuts, and serve. PUREE OF CHESTNUTS i quart of chestnuts i tablespoonful of butter i quart of water or stock Salt and pepper to taste Shell the chestnuts, throw them into boiling water until the skins come off easily; then drain and remove the brown skin. Put them in a saucepan with the water or stock, and VEGETABLES 275 boil gently for a half-hour, or until they will mash easily under pressure. Then press them through a colander, return them to the saucepan, add the butter, salt and pep- per, stir until it boils, and it is ready to serve. CORN BOILED ON THE COB Corn should be cooked as quickly as possible after picking, as it heats, and loses its sweetness. If necessary to keep over night, spread it out singly on the cold cellar floor. When ready to cook, remove the husks and every thread of silk. Put in a kettle of boiling water, and boil rapidly, after it begins to boil, five minutes. When done, take out with a skimmer, heap on a platter, and serve immediately. TO EAT Score every row of grains with a sharp knife, spread lightly with butter, dust with salt, and with the teeth press out the centre of the grain leaving the hull on the cob. Thus eaten it will cause no trouble, as the hull is the only indigestible part. CORN BOILED IN THE HUSKS Remove the green outside husks, leaving the cob well cov- ered with the inner light husks. Throw into a kettle of Iwiling water, and boil rapidly, after it begins to boil, ten minutes. When done, take out, drain, pull the silk from the end of the cob, and serve in the husks. CORN FRITTERS i dozen ears of corn y2 pint of milk 2 eggs i cup of flour i teaspoonful of baking- J^ teaspoonful of salt powder 2 dashes of black pepper Score the corn down the centre of each row of grains, then with the back of the knife press out the pulp, leaving the VEGETABLES 277 carefully the whites of the eggs. Brush a pudding dish lightly with butter, and pour in the mixture. Bake slowly one hour. Serve as an accompaniment to roast beef or lamb. SUCCPTASH i pint of young lima or kidney beans i pint of corn pressed from the cob y2 pint of milk or cream i tablespoanful of butter Salt and pepper to taste Shell the beans, cover them with boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil twenty-five minutes; then add an eighth-teaspoonful of baking-soda, boil one minute, and drain. Score the corn and press it from the cob, add it to the beans, then add the milk, butter, salt, and pepper, stir continually over the fire for five minutes, and it is ready to serve. In winter, when the corn and beans are dried, soak both separately over night. In the morning, cover the beans with fresh water and boil gently for two hours. Do not drain the water from the corn, but keep it on the back part of the fire where it will not boil during the two hours the beans are boiling. When the beans are tender, drain them, add them to the corn, which should have just water enough to cover. Cook slowly for twenty minutes, then add the cream, butter, salt, and pepper. This may also be made from canned corn and beans. TO COOK CANNED CORN Open the top of the can with a can-opener, turn out the corn into a saucepan, add to it a quarter-cup of cream, a tablespoonful of butter, and salt and pepper to taste; stir over the fire until very hot, and it is ready to serve. 278 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK TO DRY CORN Remove the husks and silk from the cob, score the corn down the centre of each row of grains, then, with the back of the knife, press out all the pulp, leaving the hull on the cob. Spread this pulp on tin sheets or baking-pans, and dry in a very moderate oven. Watch carefully, or the corn will brown; stir three or four times while drying. If the oven is just right it will take about three hours to dry. When dry, put into bags and hang away in a cool, dry place. TO COOK DRIED CORN Cover one pint of corn with warm water and stand it on the back part of the fire over night. In the morning, if it has absorbed all the water, add more, and cook slowly two hours, or until you are ready to use; then add salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of butter, and a half-pint of cream. COLD CORN Cold corn left from dinner may be cut from the cob, covered with milk, and stewed five minutes. Season with a bit of butter, salt and pepper. CORN SALAD Corn salad may be washed, cooked and served the same as spinach. STEWED CUCUMBERS No. I 6 cucumbers i small onion i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour y2 pint of stock or water Salt and pepper to taste Pare the cucumbers, cut them in quarters, remove the seeds. Put the butter into a frying-pan, add to it the onion cut in slices, fry until brown, then add the cucum- bers, and fry carefully until a light brown; take them out VEGETABLES 279 with a slice, add the flour to the butter remaining in the pan, mix until smooth; add the stock, stir continually until it boils, add the salt and pepper, then the cucumbers, and stew gently for twenty minutes. Serve on squares of toasted bread. STEWED CUCUMBERS No. 2 6 cucumbers 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour y2 pint of boiling water Salt and pepper to taste Pare the cucumbers, cut them in quarters, remove the seeds, and soak them in cold water for a half-hour. Then put them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil until tender (about thirty minutes). When done, drain, turn them carefully into a vegetable dish, pour drawn butter over them, and serve. FRIED CUCUMBERS Pare the cucumbers, cut them into slices about one-sixteenth of an inch thick, season them with salt and pepper, dip them first in egg and then in bread crumbs. Put two table- spoonfuls of lard or dripping into a frying-pan; when hot, put in a few slices of the cucumbers; when brown and crisp on one side, turn and brown the other. Take out carefully, drain on brown paper, and serve very hot. CUCUMBERS FRIED IN BATTER Pare three cucumbers, cut them in slices about one-sixteenth of an inch thick, dredge them with salt and pepper, and let them lie fifteen minutes. Beat one egg (the white and yolk together) until light; add to it a half-pint of milk, a half- teaspoonful of salt, two dashes of black pepper, and a cup and a half of sifted flour; beat until smooth. Dip the pieces of cucumbers into this batter, and fry in boiling fat 280 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK or oil. The fat must be deep enough to float them. When done, take them out with a skimmer (piercing them with a fork will make them fall), drain them on brown paper, and serve very hot. BOILED DANDELIONS Use the first shoots of the dandelions. They are not fit for food after they blossom, as they then become bitter and stringy. Cut off the roots, pick them over carefully, and wash well in several waters; then put them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil one hour. When done, drain and chop fine; then put them in a frying-pan, add a tablespoonful of butter, salt and pep- per to taste; stir until thoroughly heated, and serve with Egg Sauce. WILTED DANDELIONS Cut the roots from a quarter-peck of dandelions, wash the leaves through several cold waters, drain and shake until dry. Take a handful of the leaves and cut them with a sharp knife into small pieces, and so continue until you have them all cut. Beat one egg until light, add to it a half-cup of cream, and stir over the fire until it thickens; then add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, two table- spoonfuls of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Now put the dandelions into this, and stir over the fire until they are all wilted and tender. Serve hot. SOUR OR NARROW DOCK This is a common weed in our rich ground and pastures. The leaves are long, narrow, and curly, and may be cooked the same as spinach. It is supposed to possess an alterative property forming an excellent diet in scorbutic cases. VEGETABLES 281 FRIED EGG-PLANT No. i Pare the egg-plant, and cut in very thin slices. Sprinkle each slice with salt and pepper, pile them evenly, put a tin plate over them, and on this stand a flat-iron to press out the juice. Let stand one hour. Beat an egg lightly, and add to it a tablespoonful of boiling water, dip each slice first in this and then in bread crumbs. Put three table- spoonfuls of lard or dripping in a frying-pan; when hot, saute the slices, a few at a time, brown one side, then turn and brown the other. As the fat is consumed, add more, waiting each time for it to heat before putting in the egg- plant. Drain on brown paper, and serve very hot. Tomato catsup should be served with it. FRIED EGG-PLANT No. » Pare the egg-plant, and cut it in slices about a quarter of an inch thick, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge thickly with flour, and saute as directed in preceding recipe. BAKED EGG-PLANT Wash the egg-plant, put it in a kettle, cover with boiling water, and boil until tender (about a half-hour), then take it out carefully, cut it in half, and scoop out the soft por- tion, leaving the skin unbroken. Mash the egg-plant fine, add to it a large tablespoonful of butter, salt and pepper to taste. Mix well, and put back into the skin. Sprinkle the top lightly with bread crumbs, and put in the oven to brown. ENDIVE Endive may be wilted the same as dandelions or lettuce. BOILED HOMINY Wash one pint of the large white hominy in cold water, then cover with tepid soft water, and soak over night. In the morning, turn the hominy and the water into a sauce- 282 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK pan, and boil slowly for five hours. When done, drain in a colander, turn into a heated vegetable dish, and stir in a large tablespoonful of butter; add salt and pepper to taste. GRITS OR SMALL HOMINY Wash a half-pint of grits through several cold waters; then put it in a farina boiler, cover with cold water, and soak over night. In the morning, add a pint of milk, and boil one hour; then add a teaspoonful of salt, mix carefully, and serve for breakfast with sugar and cream. FRIED GRITS Wash a half-pint of grits in cold water; then cover with one quart of tepid water, and soak over night. In the morning, turn it into a farina boiler and boil one hour; season with salt and pepper to taste; then pour into a square mould and stand away to cool. When cold, cut in slices, dust each slice with flour, and fry in fresh dripping or lard until a light brown. HOMINY CROQUETTES Hominy croquettes may be made precisely the same as Rice Croquettes, using two cups of grits instead of one cup of rice. KALE Kale may be cooked and served the same as spinach. LENTILS Wash and soak a pint of lentils over night. In the morn- ing, drain and cover with warm soft water, and bring quickly to a boil. Boil gently for one hour, drain, cover again with fresh boiling soft water, and boil gently until tender (about one and one-half hours longer). Take out one or two; if they mash quickly under pressure, they are done. Drain in a colander. Put two tablespoonfuls of 284 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK DUTCHED LETTUCE Wash carefully two heads of lettuce, separate the leaves and tear each leaf in two or three pieces. Cut a quarter- pound of ham or bacon into dice, and fry until brown; while hot, add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Beat one egg until light, add to it two tablespoonfuls of sour cream, then add it to the ham, stir over the fire one minute until it thickens, and pour, boiling hot, over the lettuce; mix carefully with a fork, and serve immediately. MUSHROOMS It is highly important for those who employ mushrooms as food, to be able to distinguish those which are edible from the poisonous ones. The edible appear in old sod, in a clear, open, sunny field. They are at first very small on a short foot stalk, and are then known as button mushrooms. Their growth is rapid; in an hour the under skin cracks and the mushroom then opens, spreading like an umbrella, and shows the gills underneath, which should be a pale salmon color. In an hour or so it changes to a dark brown, and is then called "old." According to M. Richard, even mushrooms which are usually edible may prove poison- ous, if collected too late, or in places which are too moist. The skin of the good mushrooms peels off easily. Those with yellow or white gills, and those which grow in low, damp, shady places, or around decayed stumps of old trees, or any other decayed matter, are to be avoided. The good mushrooms have invariably an agreeable smell, while the poisonous have a rank putrid smell. It is always safe to use the canned mushrooms, which are con- venient and cheap, but tough and indigestible, and we cau- tion those who eat them to masticate diligently. VEGETABLES 285 It is said that one poisonous mushroom among a pint of good ones, will turn a. silver spoon black, if stirred with it while they are stewing DRIED MUSHROOMS Wipe the mushrooms clean, and peel off the skin. Cover the bottoms of shallow baking-pans with white paper, put the mushrooms in a single layer on this, and stand in a cool oven to dry. When dry and shriveled, take them out, put in paper bags, and hang in a cool, dry place. When wanted for use, put them in cold water or milk, and bring slowly to a simmer. In this way they will regain nearly their natural size and flavor. STEWED MUSHROOMS No. i Peel the mushrooms, wash them in cold water and cut off the bottom of the stalks. Then put them in a porcelain «aucepan; to every pint of mushrooms, add one tablespoon- ful of butter rolled in flour. Let the mushrooms cook in their own liquor and the butter for fifteen minutes, then add salt and pepper, and serve immediately. STEWED MUSHROOMS No. 2 Peel the mushrooms, wash them in cold water and cut off the bottom of the stalks. Then put them into a porcelain- lined kettle; to every pint of mushrooms add a tablespoon- ful of butter divided into four bits and rolled in flour. Let the mushrooms cook in their own liquor with the butter and flour for fifteen minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls of thick cream, salt and pepper to taste. Take from the fire, add the well-beaten yolk of one egg, and, if you use it, one tablespoonful of sherry. Serve immediately. 286 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK TO STEW CANNED MUSHROOMS i can of mushrooms i tablespoonful of butter Yolk of one egg ^ pint of milk i tablespoonful of sherry, Salt and pepper to taste if you use it (white is the best) i tablespoonful of flour Drain the mushrooms. Put the butter in a porcelain or granite saucepan, add to it the flour, mix until smooth; add the milk, and stir continually until it boils; then add the mushrooms, salt and pepper, stir until thoroughly heated. Take from the fire, add the well-beaten yolk of the egg, and the wine, then serve. In cooking canned mushrooms, do not boil, as they are already cooked, and the second boiling toughens them. BAKED MUSHROOMS For this, choose the larger mushrooms. Peel, cut off the stalks close to the top, place them upside down in a pie dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and put a tiny piece of butter in each mushroom. Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes, basting two or three times with a little melted butter. Serve hot on the dish in which they were baked. BROILED MUSHROOMS For this, choose the largest mushrooms you can get. Peel, cut off the stalks close to the top, baste them well with melted butter, dust lightly with salt and pepper, and let them stand a half-hour. Then place them in a wire broiler, close the broiler very carefully so as not to break them, broil them over a clear fire, first on one side and then on the other. Open the broiler, remove them carefully with a spoon, place them on small squares of buttered toast, pour on a little melted butter, and serve. VEGETABLES 2*7 BOILED OKRA I quart of young white okra i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of vinegar Salt and pepper to taste Wash the okra well in cold water, put into a porcelain-lined or granite kettle (an iron kettle discolors the okra) with a half-pint of water and a teaspoonful of salt. Cover the kettle and simmer gently thirty minutes; then add the but- ter, vinegar, and pepper, and more salt if necessary, boil up once and serve. OKRA STEWED WITH TOMATOES i quart of okra i pint of tomatoes i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste Wash the okra, and cut in thin slices. Peel the tomatoes, and cut in slices. Put both in a porcelain-lined or granite kettle, add one teaspoonful of salt, cover the kettle, and simmer gently for a half-hour; then add the butter and pepper, and more salt if necessary. STEWED OKRA WITH RICE i quart of okra i cup of rice y2 pound of ham I onion i red pepper i tablespoonful of powdered i pint of white stock dry sassafras leaves i pint of tomatoes Wash the okra, and cut in thin slices. Cut the ham into dice and fry it until brown. Peel and cut the tomatoes, put them into a porcelain-lined or granite kettle with the okra, ham, stock, the pepper cut in small pieces, and onion cut in slices; cover the kettle, and simmer gently for a half- hour. While this cooks, wash and boil the rice. When the okra is done, add the salt, pepper and sassafras leaves (called filee), let it boil up once, and serve with the rice around the dish. 288 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK BOILED ONIONS I dozen onions i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour y2 pint of milk Salt and pepper to taste Put the onions into cold water and remove the skins. Put them into a saucepan of boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil until you can pierce them easily with a fork (about forty minutes); then drain, and turn carefully into a heated vegetable dish. Put the butter into a frying- pan; when melted, add the flour, mix until smooth; then add the milk, and stir continually until it boils; add salt and pepper, and pour over the onions. FRIED ONIONS Cover the onions with cold water and remove the skins. Cut them in slices, cover with boiling water, add a tea- spoonful of salt, and boil twenty minutes; drain, add a large tablespoonful of butter to the onions and fry for a half-hour, stirring frequently; add salt and pepper, and serve. BAKED ONIONS Choose large, perfect onions for this purpose. Trim the bottoms, but do not peel them. Throw them into a kettle of boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil rapidly one hour; then drain in a colander. Take each one out separately, wipe it dry, roll in a square of tissue paper, and twist at the top to keep it closed. Now place them in a baking-pan, and bake in a slow oven one hour. When done, take off the papers, peel the onions, put them into a vegetable dish, and pour melted butter over them. Dust with salt and pepper, and serve. Spanish onions are particularly nice served in this way. VEGETABLES 289 STEWED ONIONS Cover the onions with cold water and remove the skins. Put them into a saucepan, cover with stock, and stew slowly, one hour if young and two if old, or until they are very tender. When done, drain, and turn carefully into a veg- etable dish. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying- pan, and stir until brown; then add one tablespoonful of flour, mix well, and add a half-pint of the stock in which the onions were boiled; stir continually until it boils, add salt and pepper to taste, pour over the onions, and serve. BOILED PARSNIPS WITH CREAM SAUCE If the parsnips are young, scrape and throw into cold water; if old, pare and cut in quarters. Put them into a sauce- pan of boiling water and boil until tender (if young, three- quarters of an hour; if old, one and a quarter hours). When done, drain them, lay them on a heated dish, heads all one way, cover with Cream Sauce or Drawn Butter, and serve with corned beef or boiled salt fish. FRIED PARSNIPS Boil the parsnips as directed in the preceding recipe. When done, drain, season with salt and pepper, dip first in melted butter and then in flour. Put two tablespoon fuls of dripping in a frying-pan; and, when hot, put in enough parsnips to cover the bottom of the pan. Fry brown on all sides. PARSNIP FRITTERS 4 good-sized parsnips i tablespoonful of flour i egg Boil the parsnips as directed in preceding recipe. When done, drain, and mash fine; add to them a half-teaspoonful of salt, the flour, the egg well beaten, and a dash of black pepper; mix well and form in small cakes. Put two large 290 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK tablespoonfuls of dripping in a frying-pan; and, when hot, fry the cakes, brown on one side, then turn and brown the other. Drain on brown paper, and serve. STEWED PARSNIPS 6 good-sized parsnips i teaspoonful of salt Wash and scrape the parsnips, cut them in halves and throw them in cold water for a half-hour. Then put them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add the salt, and boil for one hour. Take them up on a hot dish and pour over them the following sauce: Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan with one tablespoonful of flour, and mix until smooth; then add a half-pint of the water in which the parsnips were boiled. Stir and boil for five minutes, add salt and pepper, and serve. GREEN PEAS Peas, like corn, lose their sweetness almost as soon as they are picked. If you should be so unfortunate as to get stale or wilted peas, shell and throw them into cold water one hour before cooking, and add a teaspoonful of sugar to the water in which they are boiled. Fresh peas should not be shelled until just before the the time of cooking; then wash them quickly in cold water, drain, throw into a kettle of boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt to harden the water. This will prevent the skins from cracking. Boil rapidly from ten to twenty minutes. After they have been boiling ten minutes, take out one or two and press with a fork; if they mash easily they are done. Drain, turn into a hot dish, add a lump of butter the size of a walnut, and serve. VEGETABLES 291 The great point in cooking peas is to have plenty of water, boil rapidly and drain as soon as they are done. Peas cooked in this way will retain their color and sweet- ness. TO COOK CANNED PEAS After opening the can, drain the peas free from all liquor. Turn them into a saucepan, and to every pint-can add a piece of butter the size of a walnut; salt and pepper to taste; stir gently until thoroughly heated, and serve at once. PUREE OF PEAS i quart of green peas or i pint of milk two pint cans i pint of water i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour i bay leaf i onion 2 cloves i sprig of parsley Salt and pepper to taste Wash the peas in cold water; then put them in a saucepan with the water and boil twenty minutes. When done they should be almost dry. Press through a colander. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Add the bay leaf, onion, cloves and parsley. Rub the butter and flour together until smooth. Strain the milk into the peas, then return to the farina boiler, stir in the butter and flour, and stir continually until it boils and thickens; then add the salt and pepper, and serve. Puree of lima, or any other green beans, may be made according to this recipe. POKE STALKS In the spring the young shoots are much used as food. They should not be over four inches long, and should show only a tuft of leaves at the top. Older than this they are poisonous. 292 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Wash and lay in cold water for one hour; then tie in bundles, as you do asparagus. Put it into a kettle of boiling water and boil three-quarters of an hour; drain, lay on buttered toast, dust with salt and pepper, cover with Drawn Butter, and serve. STEAMED POTATOES Wash and scrub the potatoes well, place them in a steamer or colander over a kettle of boiling water; cover and steam until you can pierce with a fork; it takes a little longer to steam than boil, but the potato, being naturall) watery, should never be cooked by boiling if you have the conveniences for steaming. When done, remove the skins quickly, and serve in an uncovered dish. BOILED POTATOES Pare six good-sized potatoes, and let them lie in cold water one hour. Then put them in a kettle of boiling water, and boil slowly until they are soft enough to admit a fork. Then pour off the water. (If you allow them to remain in the water one second after they are done, they will become waxy and watery.) Uncover the kettle, dredge with salt, and shake them so that all sides may be exposed to the cold air. Cover the boiler with a napkin, and let stand on one side of the fire for five minutes, and they are ready to serve. Old potatoes that have sprouted and are shriveled, are better covered with cold water instead of boiling water. POTATOES BOILED IN THEIR SKINS Select potatoes of uniform size, wash and scrub them well; let them stand in cold water for a half-hour, then put them into a kettle of boiling water, and boil slowly until you can pierce easily with a fork; then drain very dry, VEGETABLES 293 dredge with salt, and stand on the back of the fire with the lid of the kettle off, for five minutes. Peel quickly, and serve in an uncovered vegetable dish. MASHED POTATOES Boil as directed in recipe for Boiled Potatoes. When done and dry, mash quickly with a wire masher until light and free from all lumps; add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, a quarter-cup of boiling cream, a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper. Beat with a fork until very light. Serve in a heated, uncovered dish. The pota- toes may also be pressed through a "Henis Vegetable Press," which removes the smallest lumps and makes them very light. STEWED POTATOES Pare six potatoes, cut them into dice; throw them into cold water for fifteen minutes, drain, and cover with boil- ing water and boil until tender; then drain off every drop of water; dredge them with a tablespoonful of flour, add apiece of butter the size of a walnut, a half-pint of milk, a half-teaspoonful of salt, and a little black pepper; stir carefully until they boil, and serve in a heated dish. POTATO PUFF 2 cups of hot or cold mashed 2 eggs potatoes i tablespoonful of butter 3 tablespoonfuls of cream Salt and pepper to taste Put the potatoes in a frying-pan, add the yolks of the eggs, cream, and seasoning, stir over the fire until well mixed. If the potatoes are cold, stir until they are hot. Take from the fire, and add carefully the well-beaten whites of the eggs. Heap on a greased baking-dish or in gem pans. Bake in a quick oven until a nice brown. 294 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK POTATO CROQUETTES 2 cups of mashed potatoes Yolks of two eggs 2 tablespoonfuls of cream i tablespoonful of chopped i teaspoonful of onion juice parsley i teaspoonful of salt A piece of butter the size A grating of nutmeg of a walnut A dash of cayenne Beat the yolks until light, add them to the potatoes, and then add all the other ingredients; mix, and turn into a small saucepan; stir over the fire until the mixture leaves the sides of the pan, take from the fire, and, when cool, form into cylinders. Roll first in egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. This will make twelve croquettes. BOULETTES 2 cups of mashed potatoes Yolks of two eggs i tablespoonful of chopped 2 tablespoonfuls of cream parsley 1 teaspoonful of powdered 1 teaspoonful of onion juice sweet marjoram 1 teaspoonful of salt A piece of butter the size A dash of cayenne of a walnut Beat the yolks lightly and add them to the potatoes, then add all the other ingredients; mix well, put into a saucepan and stir over the fire until the mixture leaves the sides of the pan. Take from the fire; when cool, form into bullets, dip first in egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boil- ing fat. Serve as a garnish to boiled fish or baked meats. POTATOES au GRATIN 6 cold boiled potatoes y2 pint of stock y2 pint of cream 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 4 heaping tablespoonfuls Yolks of four eggs of grated cheese Salt and cayenne to taste Put the butter in a frying-pan to melt; when melted, add VEGETABLES 295 the flour, mix until smooth; then add the stock and cream, and stir continually until it boils. Take from the fire, add the cheese, the yolks well beaten, salt, and cayenne. Put a layer of this sauce in the bottom of a baking-dish, then a layer of the cold potatoes, sliced, and so on, having the last layer sauce; sprinkle bread crumbs over the top, and put it in a quick oven ten minutes, to brown. Serve in the dish in which it was baked. POTATOES a la BECHAMEL Steam the potatoes, and when done, cut them in slices and place on a heated dish. Have a Bechamel Sauce ready, pour it over the potatoes, and serve very hot. SCALLOPED POTATOES Cut four good-sized boiled or steamed potatoes into dice. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan; and, when melted, add two tablespoon fuls of flour, mix until smooth; then add one pint of milk, and stir continually until it boils; add a teaspoonful of salt, and three dashes of black pepper; take from the fire. Put a layer of this sauce in the bottom of a baking-dish, then a layer of potatoes, then another layer of sauce, and so on until all is used, having the last layer sauce; sprinkle the top lightly with bread crumbs, and put in the oven for fifteen minutes, to brown. Serve in the dish in which it was baked. HASHED POTATOES BROWNED IN THE OVEN Pare two good-sized potatoes, and cut into dice. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan; and, when melted, add one tablespoonful of flour, mix until smooth; then add a half-pint of milk, stir continually until it boils, add a half-teaspoonfirt of salt, and two dashes of black pepper. Put a layer of this sauce in the bottom of a baking-dish, 296 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK then a layer of the uncooked chopped potatoes, then a sprinkling of salt, pepper, parsley, and a few drops of onion juice, then another layer of sauce, and so on until all is used, having the last layer sauce; sprinkle the top over lightly with bread crumbs, and put in a moderate oven to bake, for a half-hour. Serve in the dish in which it was baked. FRiED POTATOES (FRENCH) Pare the potatoes and throw them into cold water for one hour. Then cut them, either with a vegetable spoon, or in slices or blocks. Have ready a pan of very hot lard; dry the potatoes on a towel. This must be done quickly, so as not to allow the potato to discolor. Now drop them quickly into the hot lard. When done, take them out with a skim- mer, and put in a colander. Stand the colander on a tin plate, and then in the oven, with the door open, to keep warm while you fry the remainder. When all are done, sprinkle with salt, and serve hot. When cut with a vegetable spoon, they are used to garnish boiled or baked fish. FRIED POTATOES Cut cold boiled potatoes in slices. Put two tablespoonfuls of lard or dripping into a frying-pan; when hot, put in just enough potatoes to cover the bottom of the pan. When brown on one side, turn and brown the other; then dish and keep warm while you fry another panful, and in this way fry the desired quantity, adding more lard or dripping as you consume it. LYONNAISE POTATOES Cut cold boiled or steamed potatoes into dice, and to every pint of these dice allow one good-sized onion, one table- spoonful of chopped parsley, a dash of black pepper, a VEGETABLES 297 sprinkling of salt, and one tablespoonful of butter. Put the butter into a frying-pan; when hot, add the onion cut in thin slices; fry and stir until half done, then add the potatoes; fry and stir gently until the potatoes are all a nice light brown. It may require a little more butter, as no vegetable absorbs so much butter as the potato. When done, turn into a hot dish, sprinkle with the salt, pepper, and parsley, and serve very hot. SARATOGA CHIPS Pare one large potato, and cut in very thin slices, on a vege- table cutter, over a bowl of cold water, so that each slice will fall into the water (this makes them light and dry after being fried); soak ten minutes, then take out a few pieces at a time, and dry them on a soft towel. Have ready a kettle of boiling lard. Throw in the slices, a few at a time, stir them with a skimmer; when a light brown, take their out, and place on a piece of soft brown paper in a colander, dredge with salt, and stand in the open oven to keep warm while you fry the remainder. Turn the first from the colander into a hot dish, and skim out the second frying on the paper, and so continue until you have finished. SWELLED POTATOES Pare the potatoes, and cut in slices about the sixteenth of an inch in thickness; then dry them on a towel. Do not soak in cold water. Have ready two pans of hot lard, one a little hotter than the other; turn the potatoes, a few at a time, into the coolest lard. When fried, take them out, drain a half-minute in the colander, then throw them into the very hot lard, for an instant, to swell or puff. If the second lard is quite hot, and the potatoes are good, they will certainly swell. When done, dust them with salt, and serve very hot. 298 • PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK BAKED POTATOES WITH MEAT Wash and pare potatoes of uniform size, and one hour be- fore the meat is done, put them in the baking-pan around the meat, and baste with the dripping every time you baste the meat. BAKED POTATOES As potatoes contain potash, an important constituent of the blood, which is freely soluble in water, they are much more wholesome baked than boiled. Wash and scrub the potatoes, place them in a baking- pan, then in a quick oven, to bake for thirty minutes, or until you can mash them between the hands. Do not try them with a fork, as that allows the steam to escape, and consequently the potato is heavy. Use as soon as done, or they will become watery. STUFFED POTATOES Bake six good-sized potatoes. When done, cut the tops off, and with a spoon scoop out the potato into a hot bowl. Mash fine, and add one tablespoon ful of butter, a quarter- cup of hot milk, a teaspoonful of salt, and pepper to taste. Beat until very light, then add the well-beaten whites of two eggs; stir gently. Fill the skins with this mixture, heaping it on the top; brush over with the yolk of the eggs, put in the oven to brown. They may also be cut into halves and stuffed. POTATO SOUFFLE Steam six good-sized potatoes in their jackets. When done, peel and mash them; then add one tablespoonful of butter (one ounce), a half-pint of hot cream, one teaspoonful of salt, and black pepper to taste. Now beat until smooth and light. Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth, stir them VEGETABLES 299 gently into the potatoes, heap on a baking-dish, and put in a quick oven to brown. Serve in the dish in which they were baked. Two heaping tablespoonfuls of grated cheese added with the cream is an improvement. PUREE OF POTATOES 4 medium-sized potatoes i pint of milk i teaspoonful of onion juice i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour Salt and pepper to taste Pare the potatoes, and soak in cold water for a half-hour, then put them in boiling water and boil slowly until you can pierce them with a fork. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Rub the butter and flour together until smooth, then stir into the boiling milk; stir until it thick- ens, then add the onion juice, salt, and pepper. Drain the potatoes and mash them through a colander; add to them the milk, stir, and press through a sieve. Then return to the farina boiler; boil five minutes, and serve. ROAST SWEET POTATOES Wash and scrub potatoes of uniform size; do not cut or scratch them. Put them in a baking-pan, place in a hot oven, and bake until, when pressed between the hands, they seem mellow in the centre. Serve in their jackets immedi- ately. BOILED SWEET POTATOES Wash and scrub potatoes of uniform size; do not cut or break the skin. Put them in a kettle of boiling water, and boil until, when you pierce with a fork, they are just a lit- tle hard in the centre. Now drain by raising the cover just enough to admit the draining off the water when you tilt the kettle. This is much better than draining in a col- ander. Stand the kettle on the back part of the fire, cover 300 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK with a napkin, and let steam ten minutes. In this way the potatoes will be mealy and dry. FRIED SWEET POTATOES Skin and cut lengthwise boiled sweet potatoes. Put three tablespoonfuls of dripping in a large frying-pan, dust the potatoes with salt and pepper, throw them into the hot fat, brown first on one side, then turn and brown the other. Serve very hot. SWEET POTATOES ROASTED UNDER THE MEAT Wash and pare potatoes of uniform size. One hour before the meat is done put them in the baking-pan with the meat, and baste every ten minntes with the dripping. TO WARM OVER SWEET POTATOES Cut cold boiled or baked sweet potatoes in thin slices. To every pint of these slices allow two tablespoonfuls of butter, a teaspoonful of chopped onion, a half-pint of stock, salt and pepper to taste. Put the butter in a frying- pan; when hot, throw in the potatoes and onion, fry and stir gently until a nice brown; then take them out with a skimmer and keep warm while you make the sauce. Add the flour to the butter remaining in the pan, mix until smooth, then add the stock, stir continually until it boils; add the salt and pepper; take from the fire, and add the yolk of one egg; pour over the potatoes, and serve. BAKED PUMPKIN Cut the pumpkin first in halves, then in quarters; remove the seeds, but not the rind. Place in a baking-pan with the rind downwards, and bake in a slow oven until tender when you pierce with a fork. When done, serve in the rind; help it out by spoonfuls as you would mashed pota- toes. VEGETABLES 301 RADISHES (Blot) Cut off the roots close to the radish. Cut off the tops about an inch from the radish. Wash clean in cold water. Take the radish with the left hand, holding it by the top; cut the skin from the top downwards, in several parts, like you cut an orange to remove the skin, without detaching it. Do the same carefully with the body of the radish, and it will look more like a rose than a radish. After having prepared two or three it will be comparatively easy. The centre leaves must be eaten as well as the body of the radish; they contain a substance that helps the digestion of the radish itself. BOILED SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT Wash and scrape one dozen roots of salsify. Throw each one into cold water as soon as you have scraped it, or it will turn black. Then put them into a kettle of boiling water, and boil until tender (about one hour); drain, cover with Cream Sauce, and serve. SALSIFY CAKES OR FRITTERS These are made precisely the same as Parsnip Fritters. SPINACH Wash a half-peck of spinach through several waters to free it from grit. Pick it over very carefully and cut off the roots. Wash again, drain, and take up by handfuls, shake and press out all the remaining water. Put it in a kettle, and add one cup of water; cover the kettle, place over a moderate fire, and allow the spinach to thus steam for twenty minutes. Then drain in a colander; turn into a chopping-tray and chop very fine; // cannot be too fine; put into a saucepan with a tablespoon ful of butter, salt and pepper to taste, stir until very hot. Have a heated dish at hand, and arrange on it small squares of buttered toast. 302 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Mould the spinach by packing it tightly in a cup, and turn each cupful out on a slice of toast. Place half of a hard- boiled egg on the top of each mould. Pour Drawn Butter around the toast, and serve. Or, when done, drain, chop fine, serve in a heated vegetable dish. Cut hard-boiled eggs in slices and lay on top. A half-peck of spinach will serve five people. SUMMER SQUASH (BOILED) Pare and cut in slices three summer squashes, remove the seeds and cut the slices in squares. Put them into a sauce- pan, cover with boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt and boil twenty minutes. When done, drain in a colander and press gently; then mash fine, turn into a strainer cloth, and squeeze until the squash is dry. Now put into a small saucepan a tablespoonful of butter and the squash, add salt and pepper to taste, stir until thoroughly heated, and serve. Or, cut into slices, dust with salt and pepper, dip first in egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry, and serve the same as egg plants. WINTER SQUASH The small Hubbard squash is best for baking. Saw the squash in halves; scrape out the soft part and the seeds. Put the halves in the oven, and bake about three-quarters of an hour, or until tender. Serve in the shell. Help out by spoonfuls. PUREE OF SORREL y2 peck of sorrel y? cup of veal stock i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste Wash the sorrel through several cold waters, cut off the stems—the leaves only are good. Put a cup of cold water and a teaspoonful of salt in a saucepan, and throw in the VEGETABLES 303 sorrel at the first boil. Cover the saucepan and boil for twenty minutes. When done, drain, and chop very fine, then press through a colander; return it to the saucepan, add the butter, stock, salt and pepper, let it boil up once, and it is ready to serve. STEWED TOMATOES Pour boiling water over them, with a sharp knife remove the skins and the hard stem ends, and cut them in small pieces. Stew in a porcelain-lined or granite saucepan for a half-hour, then add to every quart of tomatoes a table- spoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, salt and pepper to taste. Stew fifteen or twenty minutes longer, or until they are of the desired thickness. Some prefer the tomatoes stewed only thirty minutes and thickened with bread crumbs. A slice of onion may be added to the tomatoes when first put on to cook, and to me is a great improvement, filling the same place that the sprig of mint does in peas or beans. BAKED TOMATOES Choose six large, smooth tomatoes. Cut a slice off the stem ends, and with your finger carefully scoop out the seeds. Mix together a half-cup of finely-chopped, cold, boiled ham, twelve chopped mushrooms, two heaping tablespoonfuls of stale bread crumbs, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a half-teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cay- enne, and a tablespoonful of melted butter. Fill the toma- toes with this mixture, heaping it in the centre; sprinkle over the tops with bread crumbs; place the tomatoes in a granite baking-pan, baste with melted butter, and bake in a hot oven thirty minutes. When done, take them up care- fully with a cake-turner, and serve. 304 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK TOMATO FARCI Put a layer of tomatoes in the bottom of a baking-dish, then a layer of bread crumbs, then a sprinkling of salt and pepper, then another layer of tomatoes, and so con- tinue until the dish is full, having the last layer crumbs. Put a few bits of butter over the top and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. Serve in the dish in which it was baked. STUFFED TOMATOES Choose large, smooth tomatoes. Cut a slice off the stem ends, and with your finger carefully scoop out the seeds. Put one cup of stale bread crumbs into a bowl, add to them a teaspoonful of chopped onion, a half-teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne, and moisten with a tablespoon- ful of melted butter. Fill the tomatoes with this stuffing, heaping it in the centre. Place the tomatoes in a granite baking-pan, and bake in a quick oven thirty minutes. When done, take them up carefully with a cake-turner, place on a heated dish, and serve. This stuffing will fill six tomatoes. FRIED TOMATOES No. I Wash and cut into halves six nice, smooth tomatoes. Place in a granite baking-pan with the skin side down. Cut a quarter-pound of butter in small pieces and place over the tomatoes, dust with salt and pepper, and stand over a mod- erate fire to fry slowly. When the tomatoes are tender, take them up carefully with a cake-turner and slide them on a heated dish. Draw the baking-pan over a quick fire, stir, until the butter is a nice brown; then add two tablespoon- fuls of flour; mix until smooth, add a pint of milk or cream, stir continually until it boils, season with salt and pepper to taste, pour over the tomatoes, and serve. VEGETABLES 305 FRIED TOMATOES No. a Cut smooth, solid tomatoes into slices about an eighth of an inch in thickness, dry each slice carefully with a soft towel, then dust with salt and pepper. Beat an egg in a saucer until light, add to it a tablespoonful of boiling water. Dip each slice first in this and then in bread crumbs. Put two or three tablespoonfuls of lard or dripping in a frying-pan; when very hot, cover the bottom of the pan with the slices of tomatoes; fry brown on one side, then turn and brown the other. Take them up carefully with a cake-turner, place on a heated dish, and keep warm while you fry the remainder. BROILED TOMATOES Choose large, firm tomatoes, cut them in halves, but do not peel them. Then place them in a broiler, dust with salt and pepper, and broil over a clear but moderate fire, skin side down, until tender (about twenty minutes). When done, lift them carefully to a heated plate, pour meltad butter over them, and serve. CURRIED TOMATOES i quart of stewed tomatoes or one quart can i cup of rice i teaspoonful of curry powder Salt to taste Wash the rice through several cold waters. Add the curry powder and salt to the tomatoes; mix well. Put a layer of the tomatoes in the bottom of a baking-dish, then a layer of the uncooked rice, then a layer of tomatoes, and so on until all is used, having the last layer tomatoes; sprinkle the top over with bread crumbs, place a few bits of butter here and there over the crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven for a half-hour. Serve in the dish in which it was baked. 306 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK BOILED TURNIPS Wash and pare the turnips, cut them into slices crosswise; put them into a saucepan, cover with boiling water, and boil until tender (about thirty minutes). When done, drain in a colander, pressing lightly to squeeze out all the water; then mash fine, add butter, salt and pepper to taste, and serve. Or, mix with an equal quantity of hot mashed potatoes. TURNIPS WITH CREAM SAUCE Pare six small turnips and cut them into dice; put into a saucepan, cover with boiling water, and boil for thirty minutes. When the turnips are nearly done, make a cream sauce, and stand over the tea kettle to keep warm. Drain the turnips in a colander, turn them carefully into a vege- table dish, pour the cream sauce over them, and serve. BROWNED TURNIPS Pare the turnips, cut in slices crosswise, and boil as directed in preceding recipe. Drain in a colander. Put two table- spoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan; when hot, add the turnips and one tablespoonful of granulated sugar; stir and turn carefully until the slices are nicely browned ; dust with salt and pepper, and serve. These are a nice accompaniment to roast ducks. RUTA-BAGA Ruta-bagas are much more solid than the common white uirnips, and may be cooked and served according to the recipes given for turnips. BOILED TURNIP TORS OR SPROUTS Wash a quarter-peck of turnip tops in cold water; put them into a kettle, cover with boiling water, and boil twenty minutes; add a tablespoonful of salt when they are half done. Drain in a colander. Serve in a vegetable dish, garnished with slices of hard-boiled eggs. ADDITIONAL RECIPES 308 PHILADELPHIA COOK ROOK ADDITIONAL RECIPES PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK BREAD Bread heads the list of foods for man. It is said that a slave of an archon at Athens first made leaven bread by accident. He forgot some of his dough, and, some days after, came upon it and found it sour. His first thoughts were to throw it away; but, his master coming out, he mixed it quickly with some fresh dough he was working. Of course the bread this produced was delicious. Bread is mostly made from wheat, as that grain contains more gluten in the proper proportion to make a light and spongy bread, which will allow the juices of the stomach to have access to every part, and digestion in all parts is commenced immediately. Please note under the head of cereals the chemical composition of wheat, and you will see at once that our fine white bread contains little but starch. We cannot say that such bread is the "staff of life," but the brown (not bran), whole wheat bread constitutes, in itself, a complete life-sustainer; consequently, bread-making is the most im- portant of the cookery of grain food. The grinding is the first process of thus cookery, and is performed in several ways, each one claiming superiority. One is by grinding the grain between two horizontal stones, the upper revolving and grinding the grain against the lower (3") 312 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK one, which is stationary. In this way the bran or outer husk is simply separated from the grain; the gluten is di- vided minutely, while the starch or white part of the grain is finely powdered. It is then sifted through bolting-cloth, and makes our fine white flour, coarse wheat meal, and bran. The flour containing little or no bran is most easily digested. Another method is the Minnesota or "patent process." In this way the grain is crushed (not ground) by passing through corrugated rollers, and then sifted through bolting- cloths. Still another is the new patent or Haxall process. By this method the flour is granulated, and contains much more gluten than either of the others; consequently, one- eighth less may be used in all recipes for bread, biscuit, or cakes. The fancy names given to flour amount to very little, as the same flour is sold by several dealers under their own and different brands. Good flour adheres to the hand, and, when pressed tightly, remains in shape, and shows the imprint of the lines of the skin on the hand. It has a yellowish-white tinge, and, when made into a paste with water, and well worked, is tough and elastic. Select it carefully, and use one kind for all purposes—cakes, pastry, and bread. It is a mistaken idea that the flour which makes good bread will not make good pastry. After selecting the flour, the next important thing is to have good, strong, sweet yeast. Potato yeast is the best, as the potato starch is particularly adapted to the yeast fermentation. The compressed cakes, however, are very good and convenient, one cake being equal to one cup of good yeast. Yeast is a plant, and a very deli- cate one, that does not flourish under extreme heat or cold: therefore, you must be very choice in the selection of the place where the bread shall stand to ferment. If chilled, it is spoiled; if scalded, it is killed, and nothing can restore BREAD 313 it. An even temperature, from 680 to 720, is best. In warm weather, take the liquid cool; in winter blood-warm. As dough contains both sugar and gluten, when moist- ened and subjected to a temperature of 1060 to i080 for six hours, it is capable of fermentation; then, by adding more moisture and flour, and fermenting again, then baking, you have salt-rising, or milk-emptyings bread, a sweet, fine, and delicious bread. There are various ways of making bread—with milk, water, potatoes, etc.; but the two points, sweetness and lightness, remain always the chief consideration. If milk is used, it should be scalded and cooled; this prevents its souring. Next comes the mixing or sponging of the bread; that is, surrounding each grain of flour with a film of water, to combine and hydrate the starch, to dissolve the sugar and albumen, and to moisten the gluten, which causes them to adhere and form a dough. This is not, then, a mere mixture, but an actual chemical combination; but, as we can- not use water enough to alone effect this, it must be supple- mented by kneading, and here comes our most important point. So far, this has been best accomplished by the hands; all machines made for the purpose, that have come under my observation, have been failures. As the eye cannot pen- etrate into the centre of the dough to discover the lumps, etc., we have no guide except the sense of touch. The ex- cellency of bread depends much upon the thoroughness of its kneading. First work the dough in the pan until it loses part of its stickiness; then thickly flour the board, flour the hands, take out the dough, and knead rapidly and continuously by drawing the dough farthest from you over to the centre, and pressing it down with the ball of the hand. Repeat this several times, then turn the dougli around and knead the other side, and so on, until every part is thoroughly and evenly kneaded. This will take about 314 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK fifteen or twenty minutes. When you first begin, the dough will be soft and sticky, but will become less so the longer you knead, and, when you can knead it on an unfloured, dry board, the kneading may be discontinued. Kneading renders the gluten so elastic that the dough is capable of expanding to twice its bulk without breaking or cracking. After this, you stand it away to rise. Give it time to fully expand, but be careful that the dough does not fall, as it is then sour, and nothing can be added to re- store the original sweetness. Soda is sometimes used, but does not accomplish the object. This falling or souring is caused by the yeast consuming or eating up every atom of flour. If a handful of flour be added to the dough, and the dough then pressed down, it might stand, then, perhaps another hour, or until this flour is consumed, without souring. Next comes the moulding. After this dough is very light, divide it carefully into loaves; knead lightly on the board until formed; place each one in its own pan (the best pans are made from sheet iron, eight inches long, four wide, and four deep), and stand back in a warm place until double its bulk. Now comes the baking, which is equally important. There are several ways of testing the oven without a ther- mometer. One is the baker's method; he throws flour on the floor of the oven; if it browns quickly, without taking fire, the heat is sufficient, or if you can hold your hand in the oven while you count twenty slowly, it is right; or, if you use a thermometer, 3600. The bread should be in the oven ten minutes before it begins to brown. If the oven be too hot, a thick crust is produced, forming a non-conducting covering to the loaf, which pre- vents the heat from penetrating to the interior; hence, the burnt loaf is always unbaked in the centre, and the dex- trine Is changed into caramel, thus making the crust bitter BREAD 315 instead of sweet. Bake in single pans, three-quarters of an hour. When done, remove it immediately from the pan, and tip against a plate or bread board, so that the air will circulate freely around it. Do not cover, if you like a crisp, sweet crust. When perfectly cold, put it into a sweet, clean, tin bread box, without any wrapping, as the cloth absorbs the moisture, and very soon sours and moulds, destroying the flavor of the bread. YEAST No. I Pare four good-sized potatoes, and let them lie in cold water for a half-hour. Put one quart of boiling water in a saucepan. Now grate the potatoes quickly and stir them into the boiling water; stir over the fire for five minutes, then take from the fire, add a half-cupful of sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of salt, turn into a stone jar or bowl, and let stand until lukewarm; then add one cupful of good yeast, cover and ferment three or four hours; stir it down every time it comes to the top of the vessel; then put it into a jar or large bottle, or something you can cover tightly, and stand it in a place where it will keep very cold, but not freeze. It will keep two weeks. Save one cupful of this yeast to start with next time. This is the simplest and best yeast that can be made. YEAST No. a Pare and boil four good-sized potatoes; when done, mash them fine. Put a half-cupful of dried hops into one quart of water, and boil fifteen minutes. Put one pint of flour into a bowl, strain over it the boiling hop water, add the mashed potatoes, and beat until smooth; then add a half- cup of sugar, and two heaping tablespoonfuls of salt, and finish the same as Yeast No. i. 316 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK FRENCH BREAD i quart of water' 6 hop flowers i pound of potatoes i tablespoonful of salt i cup of good yeast or half a compressed cake About four quarts of flour Put the hops in the water, and boil five minutes. Boil the potatoes in their skins; when done, peel and mash them fine. Put three cups of flour into the bread pan, pour one pint of boiling water over it, and beat quickly until smooth; add the mashed potatoes, and then strain into this the hop- water; add the salt and a teaspoonful of sugar; beat thoroughly; and, when lukewarm, add the yeast; stand in a warm place for nine hours, or over night. In the morning add sufficient flour (about three and a half quarts) to make a dough; knead thoroughly and continuously for ten minutes, using as little flour as possible; then wet the hands in lukewarm water, raise the dough about three feet from the board, and throw it back with force, and continue this process for fifteen minutes, or until large air bubbles are formed in the dough. If properly worked the dough will be very elastic and soft, but will not stick to the hands. Now put it back in the bread pan, cover, and stand in a warm place to rise, about two hours. When light, take out gently, enough of this dough to make one loaf (about a pound); sprinkle the board lightly with flour, knead so as to make a kind of ball; then roll it gently with palms of the hands, giving it an elongated shape; now flour a rolling-pin lightly, place it on top of the loaf, right in the centre, and press and roll a little to make a furrow in the middle of the loaf. Now dust a towel or bread cloth well with flour, place the loaf just made upside down on the towel, pulling out the ends a little to give the loaf a long form, and so continue until all the loaves are made; then cover with a towel, let rise as ordinary bread; then turn BREAD 317 into floured bread pans, the furrowed side up, /'. e., the side that was down in the floured towel must be up in the bak- ing-pan. The loaves must be a little distance apart, if you place two in one pan. Sprinkle plenty of flour on the top of each loaf, and bake in a moderately quick oven, forty minutes. MILK BREAD i pint of milk About two quarts of flour ^ cup of yeast or half a i teaspoonful of salt compressed cake i teaspoonful of butter Scald the milk and turn it into the bread pan, add the butter and salt. When cool, add the yeast, and sufficient flour to make a thick batter. Beat thoroughly until the batter is full of air-bubbles. Cover, and let stand in a warm place (720 Fahr.) until morning. Early in the morning add enough flour to make a dough. Take it out on a baking-board as soon as it is stiff enough to do so, and knead quickly and gently until the dough is perfectly smooth and elastic, and will not stick to the board or hands. Now put it back in the bread pan, cover, and stand in the same warm place, and let it rise until it doubles its bulk. When light, turn out on the board, divide it into halves, mould lightly into loaves, put them into greased pans, and stand away again until light. Bake in a moderately quick oven (3900 Fahr.) for three-quarters of an hour. WATER BREAD Water bread is made precisely the same as Milk Bread, using tepid water instead of milk. MILK BREAD WITH POTATO SPONGE 2 potatoes 1 quart of milk 1 tablespoonful of salt 1 cup of yeast or half a About four quarts of flour compressed cake Pare the potatoes, put them in a saucepan with a quart of 318 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK boiling water, and boil until very tender. Put one cup of flour in the bread pan, pour over it one cup of the boiling potato water, beat quickly; mash the potatoes through a colander into this batter, and beat again until smooth. When lukewarm, add the yeast and salt; mix, cover, and stand in a warm place (720 Fahr.) over night. In the morning scald the milk; and, when lukewarm, add to it sufficient flour to make a batter; then add the potato sponge, mix well, cover, and stand away in a warm place until very light. Then add sufficient flour to make a dough. Take it out on a baking-board as soon as it is stiff enough to do so, and knead quickly and gently until the dough is per- fectly smooth and elastic, and will not stick to the board or hands; then cut it into quarters, mould into loaves, place each loaf in a greased bread pan, cover with a towel, and stand in a warm place to rise, until it doubles its bulk. Then bake in a moderately quick oven (3900 Fahr.) for three-quarters of an hour. STIRRED BREAD Make a sponge the same as for Milk Bread, and let it stand over night. In the morning, beat it well, add one cup of flour, and pour it into greased, deep bread pans. Let it stand until light (about two hours). Bake in a moderately quick oven for three-quarters of an hour. This makes a very sweet bread, but is not so delicate as when kneaded. SALT-RISING BREAD Add to one pint of scalding water sufficient flour to make a thick batter, add a half-teaspoonful of salt, and beat until smooth and full of air-bubbles. Cover closely, stand in a pan of warm water and keep in a warm place over night. In the morning, scald one pint of milk, stand aside until BREAD 319 lukewarm; add a teaspoon ful of salt and enough flour to make a batter that will drop, not pour, from a spoon. Now turn into this the salt rising, which should be very light, and emit a very unpleasant odor; beat thoroughly and continuously for three minutes, then cover with a towel, stand in a pan of warm water, and put where it will keep warm until very light (about two hours); then add sufficient flour to make a dough; knead thoroughly and continuously until smooth and elastic, divide into loaves, mould, place in greased pans, cover with a towel, and, when very light, bake in a moderate oven (3000 Fahr.) one hour.' This must be kept very much warmer than a yeast bread, or it will not rise. It is thought by some more digestible than any other kind of bread: SWEET POTATO BREAD I quart of flour 1 pint of warm water 4 roasted sweet potatoes 1 cup of yeast or half a 1 tablespoonful of salt compressed cake 1 tablespoonful of butter Put the water into a bread pan or large bowl, add the but- ter, salt, yeast and flour; beat well, and stand in a warm place over night. In the morning, bake the potatoes and press them through a sieve into the light sponge, add flour, and finish same as Milk Bread. RYE BREAD Make a sponge from wheat flour as directed in recipe for Milk Bread. In the morning add sufficient rye flour to make a soft dough. Knead lightly; then cut the dough in two loaves, mould, place in greased bread pans, cover and stand in a warm place to rise again. When light, bake in a moderate oven (3000 Fahr.) for one hour. Rye bread must not be as stiff as white bread, and does not require so much kneading. 320 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK CORN BREAD 2 potatoes i quart of milk i tablespoon ful of salt i cup of yeast or half a i pint of yellow corn meal compressed cake Sufficient flour to make a dough Pare the potatoes, put them in a saucepan with a quart of boiling water, and boil until very tender. Put one cup of flour in the bread pan, pour over it one cup of the boiling potato water, beat quickly. Mash the potatoes through a colander into this batter, beat again until smooth, and let stand until lukewarm; then add the yeast and the salt, mix well; cover and stand in a warm place (720 Fahr.) over night. Now put the com meal in a bowl and pour over it just sufficient boiljng water to moisten it; let it stand also over night. In the morning, scald the milk and stand aside until lukewarm; then add sufficient flour to make a batter that will drop, not pour, from a spoon; now add to this the scalded corn meal, then the potato mixture; beat all well together, then add sufficient flour to make a soft dough; knead lightly, using just enough flour to pre- vent sticking; then divide in fourths. Mould each fourth into a loaf, place each loaf in a greased bread pan, cover and stand in a warm place until light, then bake in a moderate oven (3000 Fahr.) for one and a quarter hours. NORWEGIAN BREAD 1 pint of barley meal ^ pint of wheat flour )/2 pint of Graham flour 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 cup of yeast or half a compressed cake Scald the milk and let stand until lukewarm, then add the salt and yeast, mix, and add all the other ingredients. Beat thoroughly and continuously for ten minutes, then turn into a greased bread pan; cover with paper and stand in a warm place until very light and full of air bubbles, BREAD 321 then bake in a moderately quick oven (3900 Fahr.) for forty minutes. GRAHAM BREAD Make a sponge at night as directed in recipe for Milk or Water Bread. In the morning add two large tablespoon- fuls of molasses and sufficient Graham flour to make a soft dough. Work well with the hand, mould into loaves, put into well-greased pans, let it rise again, and bake in a moderate oven (3000 Fahr.) for one hour. Graham bread must be watched more carefully than white bread, as it sours quickly. BOSTON BROWN BREAD 2 cups of Yankee rye meal 2 cups of Indian meal 1 cup of molasses 1 teaspoonful of soda or 1 teaspoonful of salt saleratus iy2 pints of sour milk Mix the rye and the Indian meal well together. Dissolve the soda or saleratus in two tablespoonfuls of boiling water, then add it to the sour milk; add the molasses, mix, and pour it on the meal, add the salt and mix thoroughly. Pour into a well-greased two-quart brown bread mould, put the lid on, and steam five hours; then remove the lid, put in the oven, and bake thirty minutes. ADIRONDACK CORN BREAD i cup of Indian meal 1 cup of flour S eggs 1 tablespoonful of sugar 2 ounces of butter 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of 1 pint of milk baking-powder Soften the butter without melting. Beat the eggs sepa- rately until light, then add the yolks to the milk, add the meal and flour, beat until smooth; add the butter, mix; 322 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK then add the sugar, whites of eggs and the baking-powder; stir lightly and swiftly. Grease a broad, shallow pan, turn in the mixture, bake in a moderately quick oven (3900 Fahr.) for forty minutes. Serve hot. HOT CORN BREAD 1 quart of corn meal 1 ounce of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 2 eggs 1 pint of sour cream or buttermilk 1 teaspoonful of saleratus or soda Put the corn meal in a large bowl, and pour over it just enough boiling water to scald it through, stir thoroughl}- and let stand until cold, then add the eggs well beaten, the cream or buttermilk, salt, and butter; beat thoroughly from the bottom of the bowl. Dissolve the saleratus 01 soda in two tablespoonfuls of boiling water, stir it into the" mixture, turn quickly into a greased, square, shallow pan, put into a hot oven, and bake forty minutes. SOUTHERN RICE BREAD 2 cups of white Indian meal 1 cup of cold boiled rice 3 eggs 1 ounce of butter, melted 1^ pints of milk 1 teaspoonful of salt 2 heaping teaspoon fuls of baking-powder Beat the eggs without separating until very light, then add them to the milk; then add the meal, salt, butter and rice; beat thoroughly, add the baking-powder, mix. Grease three round, shallow pans, turn in the mixture, put quickly m a hot oven, and bake thirty minutes. Serve hot. PARKER HOUSE ROLLS i pint of cold boiled milk ]4 cup of yeast or half a 1 teaspoonful of salt compressed cake dis- 2 quarts of sifted flour solved in a half-cup of 1 large spoonful of lard lukewarm water 1 teaspoonful of sugar Put the flour into a deep bowl, add salt and sugar. Mix BREAD 323 and then rub in the lard. Make a well in the centre. Mix (he yeast and milk well together, pour it into the well, and let it stand until morning. Then stir, and knead thor- oughly, first in the bowl, and, as soon as stiff enough, on the board. Now pound it for fifteen minutes with a potato masher; as soon as it becomes velvety, put it back in the bowl, cover it, and set away in a warm place (720 Fahr.) until very light. When light, roll out on the board a quar- ter-inch thick, cut with a round cutter, fold one-third over two-thirds, put on a greased baking-sheet; let stand again one hour, bake in a quick oven (4000 Fahr.) for fifteen minutes. Remember that different kinds of flour require more or less moisture. Do not add the whole two quarts, if less will answer. FRENCH ROLLS French rolls are made in precisely the same manner as French Bread. When light the second time, form into small rolls instead of loaves; finish the same as the bread. TEA BISCUIT No. 1 1 pint of milk 2 ounces of butter or lard y2 cup of yeast or half a compressed cake 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of sugar About two quarts of good flour Scald the milk, and stand away until lukewarm; then add the salt, sugar, and butter or lard, stir until the butter is dissolved, then add the flour, and beat vigorously for five minutes; add the yeast; mix well, cover with a towel, and stand in a warm place for four hours, or until very light; then knead, adding sufficient flour to prevent sticking. It must not be as stiff as bread. Knead continuously for ten minutes, put back in the pan, cover again and stand in a 324 PrnT.ADKI.PHrA COOK book warm place for two hours, or until double its bulk. Now turn it out on the bread board, pinch off a small piece, of the dough, about the size of a walnut, knead it lightly with the fingers into a little ball, place in a greased pan, and so continue until you have them all made. Place them far enough apart (two inches) to have a brown crust all around. When you have them all moulded, cover again, and let stand a half-hour, then bake in a quick oven for fif- teen minutes. TEA BISCUIT No. a i pint of milk 2 eggs 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of sugar 2 ounces of butter or lard 3 or more pints of flour y2 cup of yeast or quarter of a compressed cake Scald the milk, add to it the butter or lard, and stand one side to cool. When cool, add the salt, sugar and yeast; mix, and add one-half the flour; beat continuously for five minutes, cover and stand in a warm place (720 Fahr.) for four hours. When light, add the eggs well beaten, and sufficient flour to make a soft dough. Knead lightly and continuously for fifteen minutes or until elastic; cover again and stand in a warm place until double its bulk, or very light, then roll out in a sheet about a half-inch thick, cut into biscuits with a cutter, place in greased baking-pans, cover, let stand a half-hour and bake in a quick oven (4000 Fahr.) for fifteen minutes. POTATO BISCUIT No. 1 1 pint of milk y( pound of butter or lard 6 medium-sized potatoes 1 cup of yeast or half a 1 teaspoonful of salt compressed cake 1 teaspoonful of sugar Sufficient flour Scald the milk. Pare and boil the potatoes, then mash fine; add to them the hot milk, butter or lard, salt and sugar; beat until smooth; add a half-cup of flour, stir and BREAD 325 let stand until lukewarm; then add the yeast and sufficient flour to make a thick batter, beat continuously for five minutes; cover and stand in a warm place ^720 Fahr.) for three hours, or until very light. Then add flour to make a soft dough, knead quickly and lightly for fifteen minutes, then roll out in a sheet a half-inch thick, cut into biscuits, place in greased baking pans and cover, stand in a warm place until very light, then bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes. These, if carefully made, are delicious. POTATO BISCUIT No. 2 i large potato 1 tablespoonful of salt % yeast cake or a half-cup 1 pint of milk of yeast 2 ounces of butter Flour enough to make a dough Pare the potato,'and put it on to boil in boiling water. Put a half-cup of flour into a bowl, and scald it with a half- pint of the water in which the potato was boiled; stir and beat rapidly; now add the potato, mashed, and the salt; beat all thoroughly and let stand until lukewarm, then add the yeast, or yeast cake dissolved in a half-cup of lukewarm water, beat well, cover and stand in a warm place about (720 Fahr.) until light. This will take about four hours. When this is light, scald the milk, add to it the butter; and, when lukewarm, sufficient flour to make a batter which will drop from the spoon. Now add the light mixture to this, mix well, cover and put back in the warm place to rise (about two hours). When light, add sufficient flour to make a dough, and knead as you would bread for about fifteen minutes. Make into little biscuits, place them in a greased pan so that they will not touch each other, cover and stand in a warm place for one hour. Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. If you want these for tea, begin them about ten o'clock in the morning. 336 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK BREAD BISCUITS Take one pound of bread dough when it is being moulded for the pans; add to it two ounces of butter, chop with a knife until the butter is thoroughly mixed with the dough. Sprin- kle some flour on the baking-board and knead the dough for five minutes; then form into small biscuits, place in a greased pan, cover and stand in a warm place for two hours, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. RAISED MUFFINS, GEMS, ETC. PLAIN MUFFINS i pint of milk 3 cups of flour i tablespoonful of butter ^ cup of yeast or half a 2 eggs compressed cake i teaspoonful of salt Scald the milk, add to it the butter and let stand until lukewarm; then add the yeast, or the cake dissolved in a quarter-cup of warm water, and salt and flour, and beat well. Cover and stand in a warm place (650 Fahr.) until morning. In the morning, beat the eggs separately; add first the yolks and then the whites; beat well, let stand fifteen minutes, and bake in greased muffin rings on the griddle on top of the stove, or in the oven. This mixture may also be baked in gem pans, and is then Wheat Gems. RICE MUFFINS Make a batter the same as for Plain Muffins; after adding the flour, beat in one cupful of boiled rice; let stand over night, and bake as Plain Muffins. HOMINY OR GRITS MUFFINS Make and bake the same as Plain Muffins; add one cup of cold boiled grits to the batter. 328 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Scald the milk, add to it the butter, and stand on one side until lukewarm; then add the yeast, salt, sugar and flour; beat continuously for five minutes, cover and stand in a warm place for two hours, or until very light. Then beat the eggs separately until very light; add first the yolks and then the whites; stir them in carefully; stand again in a warm place for fifteen minutes; then turn into a greased Turk's head, and bake in a moderately quick oven for forty minutes. RAISED WAFFLES AND GRIDDLE CAKES PLAIN WAFFLES i quart of sifted flour 2 ounces of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt J£ cup of yeast or half a 3 eggs compressed cake \y2 pints of milk Rub the butter into the flour, add the salt, then the milk— which should be scalded and cooled, and the yeast; beat thoroughly and continuously for three minutes; cover and stand in a warm place for two hours, or until very light. Then beat the eggs separately, add to the batter first the yolks and then the whites; let stand fifteen minutes. Have the waffle-iron gradually and thoroughly heated. Dip a small paint brush in melted suet and brush the iron until every part is well greased. Pour the batter into a pitcher, so that you may fill the iron quickly. Open the iron, pour the batter from the pitcher into the iron until you have covered the elevations, close the iron quickly and turn it over. Bake about two minutes, or until a nice brown; then remove them carefully, place on a hot dish, and serve quickly. RICE WAFFLES Make the same as Plain Waffles, adding one cup of boiled rice with the flour. BREAD 329 GRITS WAFFLES Make the same as Plain Waffles, adding one cup of boiled grits with the flour. FLANNEL CAKES Make a batter the same as for Plain Muffins, using a gill more of milk. Bake on a hot griddle. RICE GRIDDLE CAKES i cup of boiled rice i pint of milk 2 eggs y2 cup of yeast or half a About 2]£ cups of flour compressed cake i large teaspoonful of salt Scald the milk, stand to one side until cold; then add the yeast, salt, flour and rice; beat continuously for three min- utes, cover, and stand in a warm place until morning. In the morning, beat the eggs separately until light; add first the yolks, then the whites; mix thoroughly; let stand fifteen minutes, and bake on a hot griddle. The griddle should always be placed on the back part of the range over night, to heat gradually. BUCKWHEAT CAKES First, be sure that you get perfectly pure buckwheat, free from grit. The adulterations with rye injure the quality. Put one quart of cold water into a stone jar with a small neck, add to it one teaspoonful of salt and three and three-quarter cups of buckwheat flour; beat well until per- fectly smooth; then add a half-cup of yeast or half a com- pressed cake, and mix well; cover the top of the jar with a saucer or plate; let stand in a moderately warm place (650 Fahr.) until morning. In the morning, dissolve a half- teaspoonful of saleratus or soda in two tablespoonfuls of boiling water, add this to the batter, beat thoroughly and bake on a hot griddle. 330 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK The saleratus is simply to improve the flavor. A cupful of this batter may be saved, and added to the cakes of to-morrow instead of fresh yeast, and may be so continued all winter. GRANULATED WHEAT GRIDDLE CAKES i pint of milk 2 eggs y2 cup of yeast or half a compressed cake 3 cups of granulated wheat (Health Food) i tablespoon ful of melted butter i teaspoonful of salt Scald the milk, and then stand it one side to cool; then add the yeast, salt, granulated wheat, and melted butter; beat until smooth, cover, and stand in a warm place over night, or until very light. Then beat the eggs until light, stir them into the batter, let stand fifteen minutes, and bake on a hot griddle. GRAHAM GRIDDLE CAKES Yi quart of Graham flour 2 ounces of butter \y2 pints of milk 3 eggs yi quart of wheat flour i teaspoonful of salt y 2 cup of yeast or half a compressed cake Scald the milk, and stand it one side to cool; then add the Graham flour, and beat until smooth; add the butter (melted), salt, and yeast; beat again, and stand in a warm place over night, or until very light. Beat the eggs sepa- rately, add first the yolks, then the whites, to the batter; let stand fifteen minutes, and bake on a.hot griddle. Very good. BREAD 331 QUICK MUFFINS, WAFFLES, GRIDDLE CAKES, ETC. QUICK MUFFINS i pint of milk 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of 1 ounce of butter baking-powder or a half- 1 teaspoonful of salt teaspoonful of soda and 3 cups of flour one of cream of tartar 3 eggs Beat the eggs separately until light; add the yolks to the milk, then the flour, which must be more or less, according to the quality. The batter must be thin and pour from the spoon. Now add the melted butter, and salt; give the whole a vigorous beating. Now add the baking-powder, and the well-beaten whites; stir until thoroughly mixed. Bake in muffin rings in a quick oven, or on the griddle. GEMS Make precisely the same as Quick Muffins, pour into greased gem pans, and bake in a quick oven for about twenty-five minutes. CORN GEMS 2 cups of yellow corn meal 2 teaspoonfuls of baking- 1 cup of flour powder or a half-tea- 2 ounces of butter spoonful of soda and a 3 eggs teaspoonful of cream of 1 cup of cold milk tartar 1 cup of boiling milk Put the1 meal into a bowl, put the butter in the centre and pour over it the boiling milk, stir; then add the cold milk, the eggs well beaten, salt, and flour. Beat well, add the baking-powder and mix thoroughly. Pour into greased gem pans, and bake in a hot oven thirty minutes. '">- 332 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK GRAHAM GEMS WITH DATES i pint of milk 3 cups of Graham meal 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 cup of boiled rice y2 cup of chopped dates 3 eggs 1 tablespoonful of 2 teaspoonfuls of baking- melted butter powder Beat the yolks of the eggs, and add them to the milk, then the rice, salt, meal, and butter; give the whole a vigorous beating. Now add the dates, the baking-powder, and the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth; mix carefully. Bake in gem pans, in a quick oven, thirty minutes. GRAHAM GEMS Graham gems are made precisely the same as the preceding recipe, omitting the rice and dates. HYGIENIC GRAHAM GEMS 2 cups of ice-water 1 teaspoonful of salt 3^ cups of Graham meal Grease the gem pans and put them in the oven to get very hot. Put the ice-water and salt into a large bowl; take the Graham up by handfuls, holding it high over the basin, which should stand in a current of air, and sprinkle slowly into the ice-water, beating all the while; then pour the batter quickly into the very hot pans, and put immediately into a very hot oven, and bake about thirty minutes. CREAM MUFFINS 1 pint of cream 1 tablespoonful of melted 2 eggs butter 3 cups of sifted flour 2 teaspoonfuls of baking- 1 teaspoonful of salt powder Beat the yolks of the eggs, and add them to the cream ; add this gradually to the flour, beat well, and let stand fifteen minutes; then add the salt, melted butter, the whites of BREAD 30.". the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and the baking-powder; . mix well, and bake in gem pans or muffin rings, in a quick oven, twenty-five minutes. • BREAD MUFFINS i pint of stale bread crumbs i pint of milk i y2 cups of sifted flour 2 eggs 1 tablespoonful of melted 2 teaspoonfuls of baking- butter powder Cover the bread crumbs with the milk, and soak for a half- hour. Beat the eggs separately. Add the yolks to the bread and milk, then the melted butter, and a teaspoonful of salt, mix all well together; add the flour, beat until smooth, and stir in carefully the whites of the eggs and baking-powder. Bake in greased gem pans, in a quick oven, thirty minutes. POP OVERS 2 cups of flour 2 cups of milk 3 eggs y2 teaspoonful of salt Grease gem pans or small earthen cups, and put them in the oven to get very hot. Beat the eggs (without separat- ing) until very light, add to them the milk and salt; then pour this gradually on the flour, stirring all the while. Do not add too rapidly, or the batter will be so liquid that it cannot be beaten smooth. Strain through a sieve to remove any little lumps that may remain. Take the gem pans or cups from the oven, quickly fill them half full with this mixture, put them in a quick oven, and bake about twenty-five minutes. If properly made and properly baked, they will swell four times their bulk, nd make a most delicious breakfast cake. 334 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK QUICK WAFFLES i pint of milk 2 heaping tcaspoonfuls of 3 cups of flour baking-powder 1 teaspoonful of salt 3 eggs 1 tablespoonful of butter Beat the yolks of the eggs until light, then add the milk, then the flour and salt; give the whole a good beating— beat until smooth; add the butter, melted, and, last, the wliites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and the baking- powder; mix thoroughly, and bake the same as Plain Waffles. RICE WAFFLES Rice waffles can be made by either of the above recipes. Use one cup of boiled rice and a half-cup less of flour, adding the rice before the eggs. OATMEAL GRIDDLE CAKES i pint of cold boiled oat- 2 teaspoonfuls of baking- meal powder 1 cup of milk 2 cups of flour Y teaspoonful of salt 2 eggs Beat the milk into the oatmeal, then add the salt, the yolks of the eggs, and a cup of boiling water, and mix all well together; add the flour, beat again; then add the baking- powder and the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth; mix well, and bake on a griddle. RICE GRIDDLE CAKES 1 pint of milk 2 cups of cold boiled rice 2 cups of flour 3 eggs 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder Press the rice through a sieve, add to it the eggs well beaten, then a tablespoonful of melted butter, then the flour and milk; beat until smooth, add the baking-powder, mix thoroughly, and bake at once on a hot griddle. These BREAD 335 may be made with yeast, instead of baking-powder, by adding a half-cup of yeast, or half of a compressed cake dissolved in a half-cup of lukewarm water, to the batter, and standing in a warm place two hours before baking-time. INDIAN GRIDDLE CAKES i pint of Indian meal 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of 3 eggs baking-powder 1 cup of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 pint of milk Put the Indian meal into a bowl, and pour over it just enough boiling water to scald it; do not make it soft; let stand until cool. Now add the milk; beat the eggs until very light (do not separate them), add them to the batter; then add the flour and salt; beat vigorously for three min- utes, then add the baking-powder, mix well, and bake quickly on a hot griddle. QUICK FLANNEL CAKES i quart of flour 2 teaspoonfuls of baking- 2 ounces of butter powder 1 teaspoonful of salt 3 eggs iy2 pints of milk • Rub the butter into the flour with the hands until smooth, then add the salt. Beat the yolks of the eggs, add them to the milk; add this to the flour, and beat vigorously until smooth; add the whites of the eggs and the baking-powder, and bake quickly on a hot griddle. Very nice. STALE BREAD GRIDDLE CAKES 1 quart of milk 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder 1 pint of stale bread or one teaspoonful of cream crumbs of tartar and a half-tea- 1 teaspoonful of salt spoonful of soda 2 eggs Flour to make a thin batter Soak the bread in the milk for one hour, then beat it 336 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK smooth. Beat the eggs separately until very light, add first the yolks, then the flour and salt; beat again, add the whites and baking-powder; mix, and bake quickly on a hot griddle. BUTTERMILK CAKES i quart of buttermilk Flour to make a thin batter i teaspoonful of salt i egg i teaspoonful of soda or saleratus Beat the egg, add to it the buttermilk; add the salt, and mix well. Dissolve the soda or saleratus in two table- spoonfuls of boiling water, then stir it into the buttermilk. Now add gradually the flour, stirring all the while, until you have a batter that will pour smoothly from a spoon. Give a good beating, and bake quickly on a hot griddle. PANCAKES i quart of flour Sufficient quantity of lukewarm 4 eggs water and milk (about half 2 tablespoonfuls of sweet of each) to make a thin oil or melted butter batter (about one and a i tablespoonful of brandy half pints) Beat the eggs until light, add to them half the milk and water, and add this gradually to the flour, stirring all the while; then add the oil, brandy, and a half-teaspoonful of salt; mix well, and add the remainder of the milk and water; give a good beating, and stand away in a cold place for three hours. Then put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan, and stand it over a good fire; when hot, put a ladle of the batter into it, spread so as to cover the entire bottom of the pan. Fry brown on one side, then turn and brown the other. Spread with a thin layer of preserves or jam, roll, dust with powdered sugar, and serve warm. BREAD S37 CORN GRIDDLE CAKES i quart of grated corn i tablespoonful of melted butter i cup of flour 4 eggs i cup of milk ^ teaspoonful of salt Beat the eggs separately, add the yolks to the corn, then the milk, then the flour and salt; beat well; then stir in carefully the well-beaten whites, and bake on a hot griddle. SODA AND QUICK BISCUIT, ETC. SODA BISCUIT i quart of sifted flour 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking- 1 teaspoonful of salt powder or a half-teaspoon- '4 pint of milk ful of soda and one tea- 1 large spoonful of lard spoonful of cream of tartar Put the baking-powder, or cream of tartar and soda, and salt, into the flour, and sift it again. Then rub into this the lard. Now see that the oven is very hot (4000 Fahr.). Grease the pans, and get the cutter and rolling-pin. Have everything ready before you put in the milk, then add the milk and knead up quickly, Roll out on the board one inch thick; cut with a small round cuth r, put quickly into the pans and then into the oven. Bake twenty minutes. Remember, to have them a success, handle as little, and make as rapidly, as possible. RYE BISCUIT Make same as Soda Biscuit, using one pint of rye flour and one pint of wheat flour, instead of one quart of flour. SHORTCAKES 3 cups of sifted flour 1 even teaspoonful of bak- 1 teaspoonful of salt ing-powder \i cup of butter A scant cup of ice-water Rub the butter into the flour as quickly and lightly as possi- 338 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK t>le, add the salt and baking-powder, mix well; moisten with the ice-water. Roll out on a board about a half-inch thick, cut with a round cake cutter, put in greased baking- pans, and bake in a quick oven a half-hour. CREAM SHORTCAKES i quart of flour i teaspoonful of salt i scant teaspoonful of soda ]A pint of thick sour cream Add the salt to the flour. Dissolve the soda in two table- spoonfuls of boiling water, add it to the sour cream; then add the cream to the flour, mix quickly, and form into cakes the size of a breakfast plate, and a half-inch thick. Place on a hot griddle. Brown on one side, then turn and brown the other. If the flour is very heavy, it may require a little more cream to make a soft dough. HOE CAKE i pint of corn meal y2 teaspoonful of salt Sufficient water to make a batter Put the corn meal into a bowl, and add the salt; pour over it sufficient boiling water to just moisten the meal, and let stand ten minutes; then add the water until the batter will drop nicely from a spoon. Bake the same as griddle cakes on a hot griddle or hoe. When done, put a bit of butter on the top of each cake, and serve. The old colored cooks in the South used to make these to perfection, and baked them on their hoes—hence the name—before a woo'd fire. CORN DODGERS 2 cups of white meal i tablespoonful of lard i teaspoonful of salt i egg i tablespoonful of milk Mix the salt and meal together dry, put the lard in the centre, and pour over enough boiling water to wet the BREAD 339 meal. Beat the egg until very light, add the milk and stir into the meal. Beat the whole well. Drop by tablespoon- fuls on greased pans, and bake in a very hot oven (3800 Fahr.) for fifteen minutes. JOHNNY CAKE 1 pint of buttermilk 3 eggs 1 pint of Indian meal 2 tablespoonfuls of melted 1 teaspoonful of salt butter 1 teaspoonful of saleratus or soda Beat the eggs all together until light, add them to the but- termilk, then add the Indian meal; beat well. Dissolve the saleratus or soda in two tablespoonfuls of boiling water, add this, the butter, and salt to the batter, mix thoroughly, and pour into a greased, shallow baking-pan. Bake in a moderately quick oven for a half-hour. PONE Upon one quart of corn meal (white is best) pour just enough boiling water to scald it through; stir it thoroughly, let it stand until cold, then rub into it a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and add a little salt. Beat two eggs until light, without separating, add them to the meal, mix well; add one pint of sour milk or buttermilk, beat until smooth. Dissolve one teaspoonful of soda in a tablespoonful of boiling water, stir it into the mixture, turn into a greased baking-pan, and bake in a quick oven for thirty-five min- ntes. VIRGINIA BISCUIT 1 quart of sifted flour }( pound of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt Water to moisten Put the flour into a bowl, add the salt, then rub the butter into it with the hands, add the water gradually until just moist. Work and knead until smooth and elastic. Then put the dough on a block and pound it with an axe until 340 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK full of bubbles. Roll out as thin as a wafer, cut into small round cakes, stick with a fork here and there over the sur- face, and bake in a quick oven until a very light brown (about five minutes). MARYLAND BISCUIT i quart of flour i teaspoonful of salt i large tablespoonful of lard Add the salt to the flour, then rub the lard thoroughly into it with the hands. Put a half-pint of milk and a half-pint of water into a pitcher, add it gradually to the flour, stir- ring and kneading all the while—add just enough to moisten the flour, for the dough should be very stiff; knead five minutes, and beat with an axe thirty minutes. Then form into small round biscuits, stick with a fork here and there over the surface, and bake in a moderately quick oven about twenty or twenty-five minutes. They should be browned on top and the sides almost white. They should be as white as the driven snow inside, with a slight crack around the sides. EGG BISCUIT i quart of flour 5 tablespoonfuls of butter (five ounces) S tablespoonfuls of sugar i teaspoonful of baking-powder 5 eggs Mix the flour, sugar, salt and baking-powder together, and then sift. Rub the butter into this, and then add the eggs well beaten; knead until light and elastic, cover with a damp towel and let stand fifteen minutes. Then roll out into a sheet a quarter-inch thick, cut with a small round cutter. Drop a few at a time into boiling water, until the edges curl, then throw them into a pan of cold water for a minute, place in greased pans and bake in a moderate oven until a light brown. BREAD 341 FRITTERS. DOUGHNUTS, CRULLERS, ETC. PLAIN FRITTERS Beat two eggs together until light, add to them one cup of milk, a half-teaspoonful of salt, and sufficient flour to make a thin batter that will pour from a spoon. Beat until smooth. Have ready a deep pan of hot fat; add two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder to the batter, mix thor- oughly, and drop by spoonfuls into the hot fat. When brown on one side, turn and brown on the other; take out with a skimmer, and serve very hot. Do not pierce them with a fork, as it allows the steam to escape and makes the fritter heavy. FRENCH FRITTERS i cup of flour y cup of cold water 2 eggs i tablespoonful of olive oil y2 teaspoonful of salt Put the flour into a bowl; beat the yolks of the eggs, add the cold water and stir this gradually into the flour; now add more water, if necessary, and give a good, vigorous beating. Add salt and oil, and then stir in the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and put away for at least two hours, but not longer than twelve hours. Put a pan of dripping or oil on to heat; when hot (3600 Fahr.), dip up a spoonful of the batter, and quickly slide it into the fat; when brown on one side turn and brown on the other. When done, talce out with a skimmer, drain on soft, brown paper, dredge with powdered sugar, and serve. Fruit fritters are made by dipping the fruit into this batter and then frying. 342 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK JOLLY BOYS i pint of rye meal 2 large teaspoonfuls of bak- y2 cup of Indian meal ing-powder or one tea- y2 teaspoonful of salt spoonful of cream of 2 tablespoonfuls of molasses tartar, and a half-tea- 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon spoonful of soda 1 cup of wheat flour 2 eggs Mix the rye meal, flour, Indian meal, cinnamon, salt and baking-powder well together; then add the eggs, well beaten, two tablespoon fuls of molasses, and cold water enough to make a very thick batter; beat well and drop by spoon- fuls into boiling fat. Brown on one side, then turn and brown on the other. Take out with a skimmer, and serve very hot. The batter should be quite thick, almost like a soft dough. Nun's Butter should accompany these fritters. JAPANESE FRITTERS Cut stale bread into slices a half-inch thick, then cut the slices in pieces about two inches square. Make a French Fritter batter, soak these squares in the batter for about one minute, and fry in boiling fat. When done, take out with a skimmer, drain on brown paper, and serve very hot. SNOW FRITTERS 1 egg y pint of milk 1 l/z cups of flour y2 teaspoonful of salt 1 pint of snow Beat the egg until light, add to it the milk, then the salt and flour, give a thorough and continuous beating for five minutes. Have ready a pan of boiling fat, stir the snow lightly into the batter, drop by spoonfuls into the boiling fat, and fry until a nice brown. BREAD 343 QUEEN FRITTERS Make a batter and filling the same as for Cream Puffs (see recipe for Cream Puffs). Have ready a frying-pan of hot lard. With two teaspoons roll the batter into balls about the size of a hickory-nut. As you make each ball, drop it into the boiling fat, fry and turn until they have swollen the size of an egg. When done, take out carefully with a skimmer, drain, dust with powdered sugar, and stand one side to cool. When cold, split one side with a sharp knife, put a teaspoonful of the filling into the fritter, close, and so continue until all are filled. Serve cold. DOUGHNUTS i pint of milk y2 cup of sugar Flour sufficient to make a soft dough 3 eggs i teaspoonful of salt ]4 cup of yeast or half a compressed cake 2 ounces of butter Scald the milk, add to it the butter and stand one side to cool. When cool, add the yeast, sugar and flour; beat thoroughly, cover, and stand in a moderately warm place over night. In the morning, beat the eggs until light, stir them into the batter; then add sufficient flour to make a a soft dough, knead lightly, cover, and stand away until light. When light, take out about half the dough, roll it out on a baking-board, cut into doughnuts with a large, round cutter; then with a small cutter make a hole in the centre. Spread a clean bread-cloth over the kitchen table, dust it lightly with flour, place the doughnuts on this, cover, and let stand a half-hour. Then have ready a deep kettle of boiling fat (suet best). Put the doughnuts into this fat upside down (t. e., the side that was up on the table should 344 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK go down in the fat). In standing, a crust forms on the surface, which prevents the doughnuts from becoming light if they are placed in the fat with this crust uppermost. Fry on one side, then turn by slipping a fork through the hole in the centre; do not stick it into the doughnut. When done, drain, and dust with powdered sugar. BREAD DOUGHNUTS Take one pint of bread dough, when you are moulding it for the pans, add to it two ounces of lard or butter, which cut and work with a knife into the dough, adding flour to prevent it sticking to the board. When soft and elastic, place it in a bowl, cover, and stand in a warm place until very light. When light, roll out and finish the same as preceding recipe. CRULLERS 2 ounces of butter 2 eggs 4 heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar y£ of a nutmeg, grated Sufficient flour to make a dough Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, then add the yolks of the eggs and nutmeg; beat again until light; then add the well-beaten whites, and sufficient flour, gradually, to make a dough that will roll out on the board. Roll the dough out into a sheet a quarter-inch thick, cut into pieces about two inches square; now make five incisions, cutting to within one-third of an inch at either end; take up every other strip; fold them in the middle and drop them quickly into boiling fat. When brown, drain, dust with powdered sugar, and stand away to cool. BREAD 345 GERMAN CRULLERS i cup of thick, sour cream i cup of sugar 3 cups of sifted flour 2 eggs yi teaspoonful of salt 1 heaping teaspoonful of 1 teaspoonful of vanilla baking-powder Beat the eggs until light; then add the sugar; beat again; add the sour cream; mix; add the vanilla and salt. Put the baking-powder into the sifted flour and sift again; now add this to the other ingredients, mix, roll out on a board, cut with a large, round cutter; then with a small cutter take out the centres. Drop them quickly into boiling fat, brown on one side, turn and brown on the other. When done, drain, and dust with powdered sugar. To have these a perfect success, the dough must be as soft as you can possibly handle it. FRENCH CRULLERS 4 ounces of flour 2 ounces of butter y2 pint of water 4 eggs Cut the butter into small pieces, put it into the water, and stand over a good fire to boil; as soon as it boils, add the flour quickly, and stir over the fire until it sticks together and rolls around in the saucepan like a ball. Then take it from the fire, beat thoroughly, and stand in a warm place (720 Fahr.) for a half-hour. Then add one egg unbeaten, and beat the mixture until smooth; then add another egg, and beat again, and so continue until you have added the four eggs; then beat the mixture for five min- utes, cover, and stand to one side for another half-hour. Put one pound of lard or clarified dripping into a deep fry- ing-pan, stand it on the fire to gradually heat. Put one cup of powdered sugar on a dinner plate, add to it one tea- spoonful of ground cinnamon; mix. Now flour the baking- 340 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK board, put out a tablespoonful of the mixture, and roll very lightly. The mixture will be very soft, but a little practice will enable you to handle it without adding much flour. After rolling the mixture down to a quarter of an inch, cut with a round cutter, then take out a centre with a small cutter, lift carefully with a cake-turner, and slide into the hot fat. Fry brown on one side, turn and brown on the other. Take out, drain, then roll in the sugar and cinna- mon. These are very troublesome to make, but, when well done, are most delicious. Points to be remembered :— i. After adding the last egg, let the beating be rapid and continuous. 2. Have the fat hot, but not smoking hot. 3. Use very little extra flour in rolling out. ADDITIONAL RECIPES PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK ADDITIONAL RECIPES PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK CEREALS WHEAT We begin with wheat, which, on account of its nutritive value, and the universality of its consumption, is placed at the head of all cereals. The whole wheat grain constitutes a perfect food. It consists of starch, gluten, sugar, gum, fatty matter, husk, water, and salts (potash, soda, lime, magnesia, phosphoric acid, etc.). Wheat has several layers of bran coats. The outer coat, or true bran, contains silica and some other elements not found elsewhere in the grain, but is composed mostly of woody fibre. When flour is unbolted (the bran not separated), it is slightly increased in nutritive value, but at the expense of digestibility; consequently, bread contain- ing bran should be rejected by persons of weak digestion. Underneath the bran husk is a layer of rather darkish matter, the gluten cells surrounded by diffused gluten, con- taining the phosphates, other mineral matters, and the fatty matter, which are bound in by the true bran. This internal layer also contains cerealine. Beneath this are the cells which form the central mass, composed chiefly of starch, with a very little albumen and gluten. This part crumbles easily to a fine dust, and forms our fine white flour. By this division it is seen that the brain, bone, and muscle- (350 852 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK feeding elements lie just beneath the true bran, the heat and force-producing elements in the central mass. Wheat grown in different climates and soils, in wet and dry seasons, contains different proportions of gluten. The gluten of wheat is a gray, elastic, tough substance. If you make a dough of flour and water, and work it on a cloth drawn over a sieve, under a stream of water, you wash away the starch, and have remaining this gray, elastic sheet, closely resembling a soiled chamois skin. Now dry it, and you have a substance glue-like in appearance, hence its name, "gluten." This gluten consists chiefly of vegetable fibrin. Flour-dealers and bakers determine the quality of flour by the gluten it contains—the more the the better. Good flour should furnish sufficient gluten to to enable the bread, after a thorough kneading, to swell three times its original bulk; while the flour containing little gluten is soft and sticky, and, even after long kneading, produces a soft, flat, and watery bread. Bread cannot be made from pure gluten. The Health Food Company make a most delicious bread, which they call "gluten bread," but it also contains starch. Macaroni and vermicelli are made from gluten pastes. Wheat grown in warm climates abounds most in gluten, con- sequently our best macaroni comes from Italy. Whole wheat grains, under the name of '■' cracked wheat," are frequently and wisely used as an article of diet. This should be boiled in a double boiler until the envelope of the grain is burst open (about three or four hours, or over night, on the back part of the fire), then eaten warm with sugar, salt, and cream. (See Suitable Combinations of Food.) 'FARINA This is an excellent preparation, made from wheat, in a CEREALS 353 form generally acceptable' to delicate stomachs. As it con- tains nitrogenous matter, it is superior in nutritive value to oorn-starch or arrowroot as food for children. It is also excellent food for adults. It may be used by those who find grits or cracked wheat too irritating. RYE This cereal ranks next to wheat in nutritive qualities. It contains more sugar and less gluten than wheat, conse- quently has more heat-producing and less muscle and brain-feeding elements. It contains more waste material, therefore it is more stimulating to the intestinal canal. It makes a good winter, but poor summer, bread. BARLEY This grain is used mostly for malting purposes. It is less nutritive than wheat, but is more easily digested, and produces a decoction well adapted to persons of weak digestion. OATS This grain is not used to any great extent as an article of diet for man in this conntry Oatmeal stands at the head of all other grains in point of flesh-producing, force-pro- ducing, and nutritive power, containing the largest pro- portion of nitrogenous matter, and furnishes the most ma- terial for hard work. The nitrogenous matter of oatmeal resembles casein (the nitrogenous matter of milk) more than gluten. It, like cracked wheat, should be boiled for hours, or it forms a most indigestible food for persons of sedentary habits. CORN This grain contains more heat-producing and fat-forming elements than wheat; consequently, corn meal is best adapted for a winter diet. It contains more than six times as much oil as wheat. It is not glutinous, and hence will 354 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK not make a dough or fermented bread unless mixed with a larger quantity of wheat flour. In consequence of the ex- cess of oily matter contained in corn meal, it attracts much oxygen from the atmosphere, and is very prone to change; it will not keep long. This quality is also wonderfully shown in green corn. It changes and loses its flavor almost as soon as picked. It is very important that corn and corn-meal mush be well cooked. HOMINY This is Indian corn divested of its germ and outside skin, the grain being left nearly whole. SAMP OR BREAKFAST HOMINY Each grain is hulled and broken up into a number of small pieces. HULLED CORN This is corn soaked in an alkali to remove the hull. In this way much of the oil is lost, and it therefore makes a good summer food. RICE Rice is richest in starch, and most deficient in oil, of all the cereals. It is the most digestible of vegetable foods. Its nutritive value, however, is not equal to wheat, because it is chiefly starch. BUCKWHEAT This grain is inferior to wheat in nutritive value, containing more heat-producing food, and not half the muscle or brain-food. Eaten alone, therefore, it is valueless as food. CRACKED WHEAT i quart of water i teaspoonful of salt 6 tablespoon fuls of cracked wheat Mix the wheat, water, and salt together; put this in the farina boiler, and boil four hours, or over night, on the back part of the stove. Serve warm, with sugar and cream. CEREALS '355 FARINA Add one teaspoonful of salt to one quart of water or milk, and then sift in, slowly, sufficient Hecker's Farina to make a gruel. Stir and boil slowly for thirty minutes. Serve with sugar and cream. RYE MUSH i quart of boiling water i teaspoonful of salt 5 heaping tablespoonfuls of rye meal Sift the meal into the boiling water, stirring all the while; add the salt; stir until it boils again; cover, and cook slowly one hour. Serve with sugar and cream. BOILED BARLEY Wash the barley through several cold waters, then cover with cold water; bring quickly to a boil; boil five minutes; drain, cover with fresh boiling water, and boil slowly four hours. OATMEAL i quart of boiling water i teaspoonful of salt 4 heaping tablespoonfuls of Akron or Irish oatmeal Put the oatmeal, water, and salt, into a farina boiler; stir until the salt is dissolved, and, if you want it for breakfast, stand it on the back part of the fire over night. In the morning, stand it over a hot fire, and let it boil one hour without stirring. Then turn out carefully, so as not to break the grains. Serve with cream. HULLED CORN (Mrs. Adams) Put two handfuls of'clean hard-wood ashes in two quarts of cold water; boil fifteen or twenty minutes; let stand until the ashes settle and the water is perfectly clear. To this cleansed water (it should be strong enough of the lye to feel a little slippery), add as much cold water as is neces- sary to cover the corn. Put the corn in the water; let it boil until the hulls begin to start, then skim the corn out into a pan of clear, cold water, and rub thoroughly with 356 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK the hands, to remove the hulls and cleanse the corn from the lye,—rub it through two or three, or even four, waters, that there may be no taste of lye; then put into clear water and boil until tender. BOILED RICE Wash one cup of rice. Put three quarts of boiling water into a kettle, add a teaspoonful of salt, and let it boil rapidly; sprinkle in the rice so gradually that you will not stop the boiling. When you have it all in, give the water a twirl with a fork, cover the kettle, and boil rapidly twenty minutes. Then pour into a colander to drain. Place the colander on a tin dish; stand it in the oven for five minutes, to dry, leaving the door wide open; then turn it carefully into a heated dish. Serve without a cover. Points to be remembered:—Boil rapidly from the time you cover the kettle till you take it off. The rapid boiling allows each grain to swell three times its normal size, and the motion prevents the grains from sticking together. Do not stir it, as this will cause it to fall to the bottom of the kettle, and burn. The drying in the oven with the door open evaporates the moisture, leaving the rice soft, snowy white, and perfectly dry. TO MAKE A RICE BORDER Wash one cup of rice in cold water, and drain it. Put it in a saucepan with one quart of boiling stock. Boil rapidly for fifteen minutes, then stand it over a very moderate fire to steam (not boil) for twenty minutes longer; drain, season with salt and black pepper, and press into a well- buttered border mould. Then put it in the oven and bake fifteen minutes. Takeout; place a dish on the mould; turn it upside down, and remove the mould. The hollow space in the centre may be filled with* white or brown fricassee of chicken or a curry. CEREALS 857 BOILED RICE Italian Style Wash one cup of rice in cold water, and drain it. Have a three-quart kettle nearly full of boiling water; add to it a slice of bacon, a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, and a pinch of saffron; add the rice gradually, and finish accord- ing to the recipe for Boiled Rice. Remove the bacon before serving. RICE CROQUETTES No. i i pint of milk y2 cup of rice Yolks of two eggs 2 large tablespoonfuls of sugar teaspoonful of vanilla ^ cup of raisins % cup of currants % cup of citron Wash the rice and put it in a farina boiler with the milk, and boil until very thick; now add the yolks of the eggs, and the sugar; beat until smooth. Take from the fire, add the vanilla, and the fruit well floured. Turn out on a dish to cool. When cold, form in pyramids; dip first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling oil or fat. Put a small piece of currant jelly on the top of each croquette; dust the whole with powdered sugar, and serve with Vanilla Sauce. This quantity will make twelve croquettes. RICE CROQUETTES No. 2 1 quart of milk i cup of rice Salt and white pepper to i tablespoonful of chopped taste parsley Yolks of four eggs Wash the rice and put it in a farina boiler with the milk; boil about one hour, or until very thick; then beat until smooth; add the yolks of the eggs, and cook ten minutes longer. Take from the fire ; add the parsley and seasoning; mix well, turn out on a plate, and stand away until very cold. Then form into cylinders; dip first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling oil or fat- MACARONI Macaroni, as an article of food, is rather more valuable than bread, as it contains a larger proportion of gluten. It is the bread of the Italian laborer. In this country, it is a sort of a luxury among the upper classes; but there is no good reason, considering its price, why it should not enter more extensively into the food of our working classes. In selecting, choose that of a brownish color, rather than the pure white. Spighetti is the most delicate form of macaroni that comes to this country. MACARONI a 1* ITALIENNE pound of macaroni pint of milk % pound of grated cheese Butter the size of a walnut Salt and white pepper to taste Break the macaroni in convenient lengths. Put it in a two- quart kettle and nearly fill the kettle with boiling water; add a teaspoonful of salt and boil rapidly twenty-five min- utes; then drain; throw into cold water to blanch for ten minutes. Put the milk into a farina boiler; add to it the butter, then the macaroni and cheese; stir until thoroughly heated, add the salt and periper, and serve. (358) MACARONI 359 BAKED MACARONI % pound of macaroni y2 cup of cream % pound of grated cheese i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper Break the macaroni in convenient lengths, put it in a two- quart kettle and nearly fill the kettle with boiling water; add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil rapidly twenty-five min- utes (the rapid boiling prevents the macaroni from sticking together); drain in a colander; then throw into cold water to blanch for ten minutes; then drain again in the colan- der. Put a layer of the macaroni in the bottom of a bak- ing-dish; then a layer of cheese, then a sprinkling of salt and pepper, then another layer of macaroni, and so con- tinue until all is used, having the last layer macaroni. Cut the butter in small bits; distribute them evenly over the top; add the cream and bake until a golden brown (about twenty minutes) in a moderately quick oven. Serve in the dish in which it was baked. CREAM MACARONI (Mrs. S. W. R. Williams, of Philadelphia) For a dish holding three pints, one-half pound of spighetti will be required. Have ready a kettle full of boiling salted water. Take the spighetti all up together, in the long sticks, without breaking. Hold the ends in the boiling water; in an instant it will go down into the water. Whirl it round and round with a fork to thoroughly separate it, then allow it to boil hard for twenty minutes. When done, put it in a colander, and pour cold water through it (this is called blanching). After it is drained, put it into the dish in which it is to be baked. FOR THE CREAM GRAVY Put one and one-half pints of milk on to boil in a double boiler. While it is boiling, stir smoothly together three 360 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK tablespoonfuls of flour and three scant tablespoonfuls of butter. When smooth, stir carefully into the boiling milk, and continue stirring for a few moments until it thickens. Then stir into it three tablespoonfuls of grated cheese. Parmesan is best, but any strong cheese will answer. Pour it over the macaroni in the dish, sprinkle a little more cheese over the top, and put in the oven to brown. The macaroni may be boiled and arranged in the dish; the cream gravy made, all but adding the cheese, and put in a covered saucepan in the bain-marie to keep hot; do not put them together until just as you are ready to put them into the oven, as the cream will curdle if allowed to stand on the macaroni. If you do not chance to have a silver baking- dish, fold a napkin cornerwise and over and over until it is the proper width for your dish, then fasten it around the dish; stand the dish in a pretty plate before sending it to the table. MACARONI WITH TOMATO SAUCE i^ pound of spighetti i tablespoonful of flour i large tablespoonful of butter y2 pint of stewed tomatoes Salt and pepper to taste Take a handful of the long sticks; put the ends into boil- ing salted water; as they soften, bend and coil the spighetti in the water without breaking it. Boil rapidly twenty min- utes. When done, put it in a colander to drain, then stand the colander in a pan of cold water for fifteen minutes. Put the butter in a frying-pan to melt; add to it the flour; mix until smooth; then add the tomatoes (strained), and stir continually until it boils. Now carefully add the spighetti, let it boil up once, and serve without cutting. MACARONI 361 MACARONI WITH CREAM SAUCE Boil the macaroni as directed in the preceding recipe. When done, put it in a colander to drain. Then put into a heated dish, and pour over it Cream Sauce. MACARONI CROQUETTES 6 ounces of macaroni ft pint of milk i tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Yolks of three eggs cheese Salt and pepper to taste Break the macaroni in pieces about two inches long. Put it in a kettle nearly full of boiling water, and boil rapidly twenty-five minutes. When done, put it in a colander to drain, then into cold water for fifteen minutes; drain again, and then cut it in pieces a half-inch long. Put the milk on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together until smooth; stir into the milk when boiling, and stir continually until it thickens; then add the cheese and macaroni, salt, pepper, and the yolks of the eggs; cook one minute longer; then turn out on a plate to cool. When cold, form into cone- shaped croquettes; roll first in egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Serve with Cream Sauce. PLAIN BOILED MACARONI ft pound of macaroni 1 large tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour Salt and pepper to taste Break the macaroni in pieces about two inches long. Nearly fill a two-quart kettle with boiling water; add to it a teaspoonful of salt; throw in the macaroni, and boil rap- idly thirty minutes. Then put it into a colander to drain; return it to the kettle, add a pint of boiling water; salt and pepper. Rub the butter and flour together until smooth; then stir it into the boiling macaroni, and stir continually until it thickens. 362 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK MACARONI WITH BROWN SAUCE % pound of macaroni 2 tablespoonfuls of Parmesan 1 quart of stock Salt and pepper to taste Break the macaroni in pieces two inches long. Put the stock on to boil. When boiling, add the macaroni and boil rapidly for thirty minutes. When done, put it in a colander to drain. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan; and, when brown, add one tablespoonful of flour; mix until smooth; then add a half-pint of stock and stir continually until it boils; add the cheese, then the macaroni, and let it boil up once. Season to taste, and serve. MACARONI TIMBALE 6 ounces of cooked ham, chopped fine 4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs 1 tablespoonful of stock 1 egg 1 teaspoonful of mushroom catsup 1 teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce 2 ounces of macaroni boiled and cut in pieces one inch long. Mix the crumbs and meat well together; then add the stock, seasoning and sauces; mix, and add the egg, well beaten. Grease a plain pudding mould, and line it with the boiled macaroni; fill with the mixture, and press in compactly. Put the lid on the mould and fasten it. Then stand the mould in a kettle, with sufficient boiling water to about two-thirds cover it. Now put the lid on the kettle, and boil for one hour. When done, turn it from the mould, pour Cream Sauce around it, and serve. CHEESE AND NOODLES Cheese may be regarded as our most concentrated food. It contains almost twice as much nutriment as any other known substance. Being difficult of digestion, it should be taken only in small quantities. Old cheese, being in a state of decomposition, taken after a hearty meal, mingling with the contents of the stomach, will aid digestion by exciting fermentation. Cooked or melted cheese forms a most valuable and nutritious food, and is much more easily digested than when eaten raw. Mattieu Williams says: "I regard it as the most important of all that I have to describe in connection with my subject—the 'Science of Cookery.' Its cookery is singularly neglected—is practically an unknown art—espe- cially in this country; and all that is required to render it, next to bread, the staple food of Britons, is scientific cookery." CHEESE SOUFFLE" (Williams) ]4, pound of cheese i gill of milk % teaspoonful of bi-carbon- i teaspoonful of flour of ate of potash mustard i saltspoon of white pepper i grain of cayenne ]4> part of a nutmeg, grated 2 ounces of butter 3 eggs 2 tablespoon fuls baked flour Chop the cheese; add the potash to the milk, then add the (*3) 364 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK cheese, mustard, pepper, cayenne and nutmeg; rub the butter and flour together and add that. Heat this care- fully until the cheese is dissolved. Then beat the eggs, yolks and whites together, and add them to this solution of cheese, stirring the whole. Now take a shallow metal or earthenware dish or tray, that will bear heating, and put a little butter on it, and heat the butter until it frizzles. Then pour the mixture into the tray, and bake or fry until nearly solidified. TOASTED CHEESE OR SCOTCH RARE-BIT y2 pound of rich cheese 4 slices of bread Salt and cayenne to taste Cut the cheese into very thin slices, spread it on a heated flat dish, and stand it over boiling water to melt. While this is melting, toast the bread, and butter it; place it on a hot dish, add the seasoning to the cheese, and spread it over the toast. Serve very hot. WELSH RARE-BIT 2 cups of grated cheese }4 cup of milk Yolks of two eggs Salt and cayenne to taste Toast carefully square slices of bread with the crusts re- moved; while hot, butter them, and then plunge in a bowl of hot water. Place on a heated dish and stand in the oven to keep warm while you make the rare-bit. Put the milk into a porcelain-lined or granite saucepan; stand it over a moderate fire; when boiling hot, add the cheese; stir continually until the cheese is melted; add the salt, cayenne and yolks, and pour it over the toasted bread. If the rare-bit is stringy and tough, it is the fault of the cheese not being rich enough to melt. Old English dairy cheese makes the best Welsh rare-bit. CHEESE 365 GOLDEN BUCK 2 cups of grated cheese % teaspoonful of mustard i dash of cayenne i cup of milk y2 teaspoonful of salt 6 squares buttered toast 6 poached eggs Put the milk cm to boil in a porcelain or granite saucepan; add to it the cheese, mustard, salt and cayenne; stir con- stantly until the cheese is melted. Have ready the toast, pour enough of the cheese over each piece to cover it, put a poached egg carefully on the top of each piece, dust lightly with pepper and salt, and serve immediately. CHEESE FINGERS Roll out puff paste into a thin sheet; brush it over lightly with ice-water, cut into strips about five inches long and a half-inch wide; sprinkle over them grated cheese, put one strip over the other, lay on a greased tin sheet, and bake in a quick oven fifteen minutes. CHEESE STRAWS 2 ounces of flour A little cayenne 3 ounces of grated Parmesan A little salt Yolk of one egg Mix the flour, cayenne, salt and cheese together, and moisten with the egg; work all into a smooth paste. Roll out on a board, one-eighth of an inch thick, five inches wide, and five inches long. Cut some of the paste in small rings, and some in strips of one-eighth of an inch wide. Place both on greased sheets and bake ten minutes in an oven (2400 Fahr.) till a light brown. Put the straws through the rings like a bundle of sticks. 366 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK CHEESE RAMAKINS (Henderson) 4 tablespoon fuls of grated 2 tablespoon fuls of butter cheese 2 ounces of bread 1 gill of milk yi teaspoonful of mustard Yolks of two eggs Whites of three eggs Cayenne and salt to taste Put the bread and milk on to boil. Stir and boil until smooth; then add the cheese and butter. Stir over the fire for one minute; take off, add seasoning and the yolks of the eggs. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and stir them in carefully. Pour into a greased baking-dish, and bake fifteen minutes in a quick oven. SCHMIER-KASE This is made from clabbered milk. After taking the cream from the top of a pan of thick, sour milk, stand the pan on the back part of the range, and pour over it about three quarts of boiling water; then turn the whole into a bag to drain. Hang it in a cool place over night. When ready to use, mix and beat it until light; add salt, pepper and sufficient sweet cream to make it the proper consistency. Serve very cold. This is also called cottage-cheese. CREAM CHEESE WITH NOODLES Put two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour in a plate. Make a well in the center, put into it the yolks of two eggs and a quarter-teaspoonful of salt. Mix the flour gradually into the yolks. Work until the dough thus produced is perfectly free from stickiness; now roll it out into a very thin sheet, place it on a napkin, and hang in the air a minute to dry; then roll tightly and cut into fine noodles; shake out again to dry. When dry, cover with boiling water; add a tea- spoonful of salt, and boil fifteen minutes. Drain, turn in a hot dish, and pour over a Welsh Rare-bit (page 364). TO COOKS On first going into a new family, make friends with the other servants, as they will acquaint you with the customs of the house. Be especially kind to the waitress or waiter, as from either you can find out how your dishes are received in the dining-room, and this will enable you to rectify many mistakes and learn the peculiar family tastes; that is, whether or not they like onion, cayenne, or much sugar, and many other small points that will greatly assist you, and, as you are not cooking to suit your own taste, but that of your employers, study well these small points. Give your whole time and attention to your work. Make the most simple dish appetizing and nutritious. Save all materials left over from meals, as they will help to make a little side dish for to-morrow's breakfast or luncheon. Have regular days for each kind of work. Keep every- thing in its proper place, which should be a convenient one, selected by yourself, and remember that no matter how great the hurry, it requires no more time to put things back in their proper places than to stand them down hap- hazard. Study the draughts of your range. Keep in mind that a red top always indicates a cool oven. Close the damp- ly) 308 PHILADELPHIA COOK HOOK ers, and this will throw the heat around the oven. Pull the dampers out only when you wish the heat or gas to escape into the chimney. "Fix " your fire as soon as breakfast is over. Open the draughts and dust damper, rake the fire well, until free from every particle of ashes; then open the top and brush the soot and the small pieces of coal, if any, from the top of the oven into the fire. See that the corners are free from ashes, and fill the fire-box even full with coal; that is, just to the tops of the fire- bricks, and close the dust damper. If you add more coal than this, you cut off the upper draught, and, of course, lose much heat. Now clean out the ashes, and carry them away. Dust the range or stove, and polish it while cool. A paint-brush makes a very nice brush for putting on the polish. Watch the fire carefully, allowing it to burn briskly until the blue flames appear on the surface, and then, if you are not going to use it immediately, open the top (the dampers being out), and thus keep it in good con- dition until wanted. Always take off the draughts as soon as you have finished a meal, thereby saving labor and fuel. The best ranges are ruined, and large quantities of coal are wasted daily by filling the ranges too full and leaving the draughts open to burn like a fiery furnace. Use everything for its proper purpose. Do not strain the bouillon or soup through the finest napkin, when there are soup-strainers hanging in the kitchen. Let your dress be simple and neat, your head perfectly smooth and tidy. A white linen cap, that can be washed every week, will keep the odors from your hair, and add to your tidy appearance. Keep yourself and kitchen as clean as possible; make no dirt, and thereby save yourself the trouble of constant cleaning. Never use your hands when a knife or a spoon will answer. As every one likes variety, do not serve the same dish TO COOKS 369 twice in one week unless it be a vegetable; nor do I like the way of serving certain dishes the same day every week,— for instance, beef on Monday, chicken on Tuesday, etc. In this way the family anticipate, and it spoils the true en- joyment of their meals. Nevtr give "things" out the alley gate unless you are told by the mistress to do so. If your mistress finds fault, bear it patiently; it is she, and not yourself, for whom you are working, and it is your whole duty to please her. One rude answer might cost you a good situation. Receive your orders attentively. If you tannot rely upon your memory, have a slate and write them down. This slate will also answer for memorandums of things wanted. Visit the cellar every morning. See if the meat and poultry are keeping properly. Look at the stock. In fact, examine all the eatables to see if they require cooking. Clean your refrigerator twice a week, if it has a metal lining; if a." Ridgway," once a week is quite sufficient. Be scrupulously particular about the care of food and utensils. Dry your saucepans before putting them away, that they may not rust. Wash all knives and forks, without wetting the handles, quickly after using them. If you use copper utensils, see that the tin lining does not become worn off; if it does, have it instantly repaired. Throw jelly-bags, pudding-cloths, and strainer-cloths into clear warm water immediately after using them. A-. soon as you have leisure, wash them through several waters; if they are greasy, use borax; scald them, rinse well, and hang to dry. When thoroughly dry, fold neatly and put away in their proper places. Always keep a brush for your sink, another for the baking-boards and other clean purposes, another small one for pots and pans. Pour boiling soda-water down your A- 370 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK sink every morning; this prevents the drain from being clogged with grease. Never drain onion or cabbage water down the kitchen sink, as in that way the house is per- meated with the odor. If a dinner-party is in prospect, ask early for trie bill of fare, and prepare as many dishes as possible the day before, to avoid confusion on the fixed day. Be just and honest; do as you would be done by; re- member that you occupy the chief position among the ser- vants of the household, a position upon which the health and happiness of the family depend, and you will always be worthy of the greatest respect. You may be sure of success and a good home. PASTRY AND PIES To make a light, crisp, and flaky crust, use a good, fine flour and none but the best butter. Have everything, in- cluding yourself, cool. A marble slab makes the best pastry-board. Use a glass rolling-pin, if convenient; if not, one made from hard wood with movable handles. Always use ice or very cold water in mixing, and keep the paste in a cold place. Plain paste is improved by keeping it on the ice before using it. Puff paste may be kept four or five days. If you should stand your paste outside in cold weather, to cool, be careful that it does not freeze, as this spoils its lightness. No matter how light your paste may be, the substance of each stratum is dense and hard of digestion, and should never be eaten by persons of weak digestive powers. PUFF PASTE "If 'twere done when 'tis done, Then 'twere well 'twere done quickly."—MACBETH. I pound of-sifted flour i teaspoonful of sugar i pound of good butter White of one egg i teaspoonful of salt A cup or more of ice-water Scald a large bowl, then fill it with cold water, and let stand until the bowl is cold. Wash the hands in hot soapsuds, then rinse them in cold water, but do not dry them. This prevents the butter from sticking to the hands and bowl. (37') 372 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Turn the water out of the bowl, and nearly fill it with ice- water, put the butter into it, and wash by working it with the hands under the water until it becomes soft and elastic; then pat it into a cake, and put it on the ice until wanted. Put the flour on a marble slab or a very large meat plate, make a well in the centre of it, and put into this well a lump of the washed butter the size of an egg, the white of the egg, sugar, and salt. Now work this with the thumb and two "fingers to a paste,add gradually the ice-water, and gradually work in the flour. When all is worked in, knead as you would bread for five minutes, then cut the paste into halves, roll out each half into a sheet, quickly break the butter into bits, and lay it over one sheet; dredge it thickly with flour, cover with the other sheet, pound lightly with the rolling- pin; roll from you, into a long, thin sheet; now fold in first the sides, then the ends; turn the paste around so that the fold will run to and from you. Now roll from you again, fold as before, place it on a tin pie dish, and stand it away on the ice for fifteen minutes, then roll and fold twice again, and again stand on the ice. Do this until you have rolled it eight times. Let it stand on the ice over night, and it is ready for use. If then rolled in a napkin, and put in a cold, dry- place, it will keep nicely for one week. It is almost impossible for any one to make good puff paste from a recipe without first seeing it made. TO BAKE PUFF PASTE. The most important part of all is the oven, for if you have used the best materials, have mixed them as directed, and then put the paste in an oven not properly heated, you have wasted both materials and labor. The paste should be icy cold when it is put into the oven, and the oven should be very hot (4600 Fahr.). PASTRY AND PIES 373 For patties, the oven should have a strong under-heat, allowing them to rise their full height before browning. Then put them on the grate to brown. If the oven should be too hot, and the paste begins to brown as soon as it is put in the oven, quickly open the draughts of the stove and stand a small basin of ice-water in the oven. This will immediately reduce the temperature. PLAIN PASTE WITH BUTTER 3 cups of sifted flour i cup or a half-pound of butter i teaspoonful of salt i teaspoonful of sugar Nearly a cup of ice-water Have everything as cold as possible. In warm weather, stand the butter and flour in the refrigerator several hours before using them. Sift the flour, measure, and put into a large mixing-bowl; add the salt and sugar; then place the butter in the centre of the flour, and with a sharp knife cut it quickly into small pieces, at the same time mixing it with the flour; now add the ice-water gradually, lifting with the knife that portion which you have moistened first, and pushing it to one side of the bowl, wet another portion, and so continue until all is moistened. Then cut and mix it together until you can lift it from the bowl with the knife. (A word of caution: add the water very carefully, wetting only the dry flour, never stirring twice in the same place.) Dredge the baking-board lightly with flour, turn the paste out on this, dredge with flour, and roll lightly and quickly from you into a long, thin sheet. Fold first the sides and then the ends, turn the paste around and roll from you again, as before; fold and roll again; then fold and stand on the ice until wanted. To have this paste a perfect success, the materials should be very cold, mixed and rolled quickly, using as little flour as possible in finishing. 374 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK PLAIN PASTE WITH LARD Many housekeepers always use lard instead of butter for pastry, simply because it is cheaper; but, as it makes a greasy and brittle crust, there is no doubt that it is more indigestible than the light, flaky, and tender crust made from good, sweet butter. For the benefit of those who use lard the following recipe is given: i quart of sifted flour i cup of lard i teaspoonful of salt Nearly a cup of ice-water Make and roll precisely the same as Plain Paste with Butter. PLAIN PASTE HALF AND HALF i quart of sifted flour yd cup of lard {% lb) y2 cup of butter (i^ lb) i teaspoonful of salt Nearly a cup of ice-water Wash the butter as directed in recipe for Puff Paste; put it on the ice until wanted. Put the flour into a mixing- bowl, add the salt, mix, and with the hands quickly rub into it the lard; add the water gradually, moistening as directed in Plain Paste with Butter. Dredge the baking- board lightly with flour, turn the paste out on this, and roll from you into a long, thin sheet. Now take the butter from the ice, break it quickly into small bits and place them over the paste; dredge quickly with flour, fold in the sides, then the ends; turn so that the last fold will run to and from you, and roll from you again. Never roll but the one way. Now fold the same as before, and roll out again; do this four times. Stand it on the ice, or in a cold place, for one hour, and it is ready for use. It may be kept two or three days in a cold place. PASTRY AND PIES 375 SUET PASTE i pound of flour i cup of ice-water 6 ounces of beef's suet i teaspoonful of salt Remove the fibre from the suet, and chop it very fine; add gradually the flour; then add the salt; mix with a knife, and add gradually the water—more or less, as the flour requires— roll out, and it is ready for use. This paste is nice for apple dumplings and meat pies. POTATO PASTE 2 cups of mashed potatoes (hot) y2 cup of cream i tablespoonful of butter Salt to taste Beat the potatoes until light; add the butter, cream and salt, and beat again; then add sufficient flour to make a soft dough; handle as lightly as possible, roll out, and it is ready to use. This is nice for meat or potato pies, or apple dump- lings. APPLE PIE 3 large greenings or other % cup of sugar tart apples 2 tablespoonfuls of water i tablespoonful of butter Pare and slice the apples. Line a tin pie dish with good, plain paste; fill it with the sliced apples, strew over the sugar; add water, butter cut into bits, and—if you like it —a quarter-teaspoonful of cinnamon. Now roll out a piece of paste a little larger than the top of the pie, make a gash in the centre of it; wet the rim of the lower crust with cold water; put the upper crust on, press the edges together, and bake in a quick oven (4000 Fahr.) for a half- hour. 376 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK APPLE TART Pare, quarter and core any kind of tart apples. Line pie dishes with plain paste; then put in a layer of the quarters, sprinkle with two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a teaspoonful of cinnamon; add two tablespoonfuls of water and one ounce of butter cut into bits and placed here and there over the apples. Bake in a quick oven until the apples are tender. Peach tarts may be made in the same manner, omit- ting the cinnamon and dividing the peaches in halves. CHEESE CAKE i y cups of cottage cheese Juice and rind of a lemon 2 tablespoonfuls of cream or one teaspoonful of y2 cup of sugar vanilla 3 eggs i teaspoonful melted butter Press the cheese through a colander, beat the eggs until light, add them with all the other ingredients to the cheese; beat until smooth. Line a deep pie dish with plain paste, fill with this mixture, and bake in a quick oven for thirty minutes. The quantities given will make only one pie. CHERRY PIE The common red or morella cherries make the best pies. Stone the cherries. Line deep pie dishes with good plain paste, fill them nearly full of stoned cherries, sprinkle over four large tablespoonfuls of sugar, and dredge this lightly with flour; cover with the upper crust, rolled out as thin as possible, trim the edges neatly with a sharp knife. Make a vent in the centre; press the edges tightly together so that the juices of the fruit may not run out while baking. Serve the same day they are baked, or the under crust will be heavy. 378 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK little cold milk, stir it into the boiling milk and stir con- tinually until it thickens, then add the sugar. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, stir them carefully into the boiling mixture, take from the fire and add the flavor- ing. Fill the shells of baked paste with this mixture, and put in the oven until a nice brown. Serve very cold. GENERAL SATISFACTION Line a pie dish with puff paste. Wet the edge of the paste around the pie dish with a little cold water. Cut the trim- mings left, into strips about a half-inch wide and put these around the edge of the dish so as to form two or three layers of paste. Put a layer of preserves in the bottom of the dish, then a layer of stale cake broken into small pieces. Moisten one tablespoonful of flour gradually with one gill of milk; beat until smooth; stir over the fire until it boils and thickens; add one ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of vanilla, and stand away to cool. When cold, add the well- beaten yolk of one egg and sugar to taste. Pour this over the layer of cake, and bake in a quick oven for twenty-five minutes, or until the paste is thoroughly done. Then beat the whites of three eggs to a very stiff froth with two table- spoonfuls of powdered sugar, place them by spoonfuls over the top of the pie, and .place again in the oven for a few minutes to brown. GREEN GOOSEBERRY PIE Top and tail the gooseberries. For one quart of goose- berries, line two deep pie dishes with good plain paste; fill with the gooseberries, add nearly one cup of sugar to each pie, cover with an upper crust, and bake in a quick oven forty minutes. PASTRY AND PIES 870 RIPE GOOSEBERRY PIE Make the same as Green. Gooseberry Pie, using one-third less sugar. HUCKLEBERRY PIE Make the same as Cherry Pie, using two large tablespoon- fuls of sugar instead of four. Blackberry, raspberry, plum, and strawberry pies arc made in the same manner. LEMON CUSTARD i cup of sugar i tablespoonful of flour 3 eggs 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered i cup of milk sugar Juice and rind of one lemon Beat the cup of sugar and yolks of eggs together, add the juice and rind of the lemon. Put the flour into a cup, and add the milk very gradually, stirring all the while, then pour it through a sieve into the eggs and sugar. Line a deep pie plate with puff paste, pour in the mixture, and bake in a quick oven thirty minutes. Add gradually three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar to the whites of the eggs, beating all the while; when it is all in, beat until stiff and glossy, then place over the top of the pie by spoonfuls, and put back in the oven to brown. GRANDMOTHER'S LEMON CUSTARD i pound of powdered sugar Yolks of six eggs % pound of butter Whites of four eggs Juice and rind of three lemons Beat the yolks and sugar to a cream, then add the whites unbeaten, one at a time, and beat the whole until very light. Beat the butter to a cream, and add the other mix- ture gradually to it; now stand the bowl in a basin of boil- ing water over the fire and stir continually until the mixture thickens; take from the fire, and stand away to cool. Line 3.S0 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK two deep pie dishes with good plain paste, and bake in a quick oven for fifteen minutes. When done, take out and fill with the lemon mixture. Add gradually six tablespoon- fuls of powdered sugar to the whites of six eggs, beating all the while; after you have added all the sugar, beat until very stiff and glossy; put this meringue over the top of the pie and stand it in the oven until a golden brown. LEMON PIE i cup of sugar i cup of water 2 tablespoonfuls of flour Juice and rind of one large i egg lemon i soda cracker Beat the sugar and egg together, then add the water, then the cracker rolled, then the juice and rind of the lemon. Moisten the flour with just a little cold water, and stir it into the other mixture. Line two pie dishes with plain paste, pour in the mixture, cover with an upper crust, and bake in a quick oven for thirty minutes. MARLBOROUGH PIE 6 medium-sized apples i tablespoonful of butter (ioz.) 3 eggs Juice and rind of one lemon i cup of sugar i cup of cream 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, if you use wine Steam the apples until tender, then press them through a sieve, and add to them, while hot, the butter; let stand until cool. When cold, add the yolks of the eggs well beaten, the juice and rind of the lemon, the sugar, cream and sherry. Line two deep pie dishes with plain paste, fill them with this mixture, and bake in a quick oven for thirty minutes. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add- ing to them gradually two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, then heap over the top of the pies, and return them to the oven until a light brown. PASTRY AND PIES 381 MINCE MEAT 2 pounds of beef (sticking 2 pounds of beefs suet piece best) y2 pound of candied lemon 2 pounds of layer raisins peel 2 pounds of currants, picked, 4 pounds of apples washed, and dried 2 pounds of Sultana raisins 1 pound of citron 2 pounds of sugar 2 nutmegs, grated y2 ounce of cinnamon % ounce of cloves y£ ounce of mace i quart of sherry or good 1 teaspoon ful of salt home-made curranf wine 1 quart of good brandy Juice and rind of two oranges Juice and rind of two lemons Cover the meat with boiling water and simmer gently until tender, then stand away until cold. Shred the suet and chop it fine. Pare, core and chop the apples. Stone the raisins. Shred the citron. When the meat is perfectly cold, chop it fine, and mix all the dry ingredients with it; then add the juice and rinds of the lemons and oranges, mix well, and pack in a stone jar; pour over the brandy and wine, cover closely and stand in a cool place. Mince meat made by this recipe will keep all winter. When ready to use, dip out the quantity desired, and thin with cider or wine. One word here about cleaning the currants. First put them into a large bowl, and to every pound add a half-cup of flour; mix the flour thoroughly through the currants, and then rub them between the hands until all the stems are rubbed ofl"; put them in a colander, and pour over end- less quantities of cold water until all the twigs, gravel stones and sand are washed off; now scald them, then wash again in cold water, drain, spread them on pie dishes, and stand in a cool oven, with the door open, to dry. Fresh beefs tongue or heart may be boiled, chopped, arid used instead of beef, if preferred. 382 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK MIRLITONS i pint of milk 6 macaroons i tablespoonful of grated i tablespoonful of sugar chocolate Yolks of three eggs i teaspoonful of vanilla Pound the macaroons and press them through a colander, add them and the chocolate to the milk; let stand ten minutes. Now add the yolks, well beaten, sugar and van- illa. Line patty-pans with puff paste, fill with this mixture, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. MOCK MINCE PIE i cup of raisins, chopped 2/i of a cup of molasses fine y 2 cup of cider i egg' 2 Boston crackers i tablespoonful of vinegar y 2 cup of sugar y2 cup of washed currants y 2 cup of cut citron % teaspoonful of salt Juice and rind of one lemon Roll the crackers and mix them with the fruit; add salt, beaten eggs, molasses, cider, vinegar, sugar, lemon and spice to taste. Mix all well together, and finish the same as Apple Pie. MOLASSES PIE 9 tablespoonfuls of molasses 6 tablespoonfuls of vinegar iy 2 tablespoonfuls of flour y 2 teaspoonful of cinnamon y of a nutmeg, grated A piece of butter the size of a walnut Moisten the flour with the vinegar, add it to the molasses; mix until smooth, then add the spices, and the butter, melted. Line a deep pie dish with plain paste, fill with this mixture, and bake in a quick oven for thirty minutes. PASTRY AND PIES 383 PAGANINI TARTLETS Line patty-pans with puff paste, and bake them fifteen minutes in a quick oven. When done, take them out, put a half-tea.spoonful of orange marmalade on each patty, cover with a meringue, and put back in the oven a few minutes to brown. PEACH MERINGUE Pare and stew one dozen peaches, and press through a col- ander to remove the stones. Line two deep pie dishes with plain paste; sweeten the peaches to taste; fill the dishes even full, and bake in a quick oven twenty-five min- utes. Then beat the whites of six eggs and six tablespoon- fuls of powdered sugar to a stiff froth, add a teaspoonful of vanilla. Cover the pies with this meringue about three- quarters of an inch thick, and put back in the oven until a nice brown. Apple meringue is made in the same way. PEACH PIE Line pie dishes with good plain paste. Pare, cut the peaches in halves, and take out the stones, then lay them in the dishes, sprinkle lightly with sugar, add a quarter-cup of water, cover with an upper crust, and bake in a quick oven for thirty minutes; or the peaches may be thoroughly rubbed without paring, slightly mashed and baked without stoning. SWEET POTATO CUSTARD 2 good-sized sweet potatoes i cup of milk 3 eggs y cup of sugar A piece of butter the size 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, of a walnut if you use liquor 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon Wash the potatoes and parboil them, then stand away until quite cold. When cold, peel and grate them. Beat the 384 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK butter, sugar, and the yolks of the eggs until very light, add the potatoes by degrees, stirring all the while, then add all the other ingredients. Line a deep pie dish with plain paste, fill it with this mixture, and bake for thirty minutes. Then beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, heap this over the top of the pie, and put back in the oven until a light brown. WHITE POTATO CUSTARD i pound of sugar Juice and rind of two lemons i pint of milk 6 eggs i tablespoonful of butter (one ounce) Beat the eggs all together until light, then add the sugar and butter; beat again. Pare the potatoes and grate them into the milk, then add these to the eggs and sugar, add the juice and rind of the lemons, and it is ready for use. PUMPKIN PIE Pare and cut the pumpkin in pieces about one inch square; put them into a stewing-pan with just enough water to keep them from burning; stew slowly until tender (about a half-hour), then press through a colander. To every half-pint of pumpkin, add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and a quarter-teaspoonful of salt; mix, and let stand until cold. When cold, put one pint of this pumpkin into a large bowl, add to it one pint of milk, a half-teaspoonful of ground mace, the same of ground cin- namon, and one teaspoonful of ground ginger; mix all well together, and sweeten to taste. Beat four eggs until light, then add them to the mixture. Line four deep pie plates with good plain paste, fill with this mixture, and bake in a quick oven (4000 Fahr.) for about thirty minutes. The Kershaw pumpkin is best for pies. If you use liquor, a fill of brandy may be added to the recipe given. PASTRY AND PIES 385 RHUBARB PIE Line deep pie dishes with good plain paste. Wash the tender stalks of rhubarb, but do not peel; cut them into thin slices, fill the dishes even full, and to each pie add five heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar. Cover the pie with an upper crust, press the edges tightly together, and pick the upper crust here and there with a fork to allow the escape of steam. Bake in. a moderately quick oven for forty minutes. RICHMOND MAIDS OF HONOR i cup of sour milk i teaspoonful of vanilla i cup of sweet milk 3 eggs J^ cup of sugar % teaspoonful of salt 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar Put the sour and sweet milk on to boil in a farina boiler, and boil until it curds; then strain and press it through a sieve, add to it the yolks of the eggs, the sugar and vanilla. Beat until very smooth. Line little patty pans with puff paste rolled very thin. Fill a little more than half full of the mixture, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add to them the powdered sugar, heap some on the top of each patty, and put in the oven for a minute to brown. Do not remove from the pans until cold. It is said that the original recipe for these was furnished by a maid of Queen Elizabeth, at her palace at Richmond, England. WASHINGTON PIES 1 tablespoonful of butter ^ cup of milk 1 cup of sugar 2 cups of flour 1 egg 1 tablespoonful of ginger 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon Beat the egg, sugar, and butter together until light, then m PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK add the milk, ginger, cinnamon, flour, and a half-teaspoon - ful of baking-powder; beat thoroughly until smooth. Line two Washington pie plates with plain paste, put the mixture into them, and bake in a moderately quick oven for thirty minutes. When done, ice with a clear icing, and stand away to cool. VOL-AU-VENT A vol-au-vent is very difficult to make, even by the most experienced cook, and cannot be made perfectly without first taking a lesson. For those who wish to try it, the fol- lowing recipe is given:— Make puff paste as directed, and stand it on the ice over night. The next morning, roll it out an inch in thickness; turn a basin the shape of the dish in which you wish to serve the vol-au-vent upside down on the paste, and with a sharp knife cut around the basin; remove the basin, and place another basin of a smaller size and same shape on the paste; Now cut around this basin only half- way through the paste, leaving about an inch and a half around the edge; now brush the vol-au-vent all over the top with a beaten egg, being very careful not to touch the sides. Put it on a tin or iron sheet, stand again on the ice until very cold; then put it into a very hot oven to bake for thirty-five minutes. Be careful not to scorch, as it burns quickly. When done, carefully remove the piece marked out with a sharp knife, lay it aside for the cover. Scoop out all the unbaked portion from the inside, put the vol-au-vent back in the oven to dry. When ready to serve, if filled with the White Fricassee of Chicken, it is then Vol-au-Vent of Chicken. For Vol-au-Vent of Oysters, fill with Creamed Oysters; Lobster, with Creamed lob- ster, etc. PASTRY AND PIES 387 PATE de FOIES GRAS These are usually made in French pie moulds, holding about two quarts, requiring a large quantity of materials, and costing from five to six dollars; but they can be so sim- plified that any housekeeper can make them for one-half the above cost, and will be so pleased with results that she will enter them at once on her weekly bills of fare. The rule for plain paste y£ pound of calf's liver i slice of bacon or quarter of a pound of ham y£ pound of veal i Terrine de Foies Gras aux Truffes du Perigord, Strasbourg ]& pint of mushrooms Salt and pepper Remove the fat from the top of the foies gras, take them from the pot and mash, adding about a tablespoonful of the fat you have taken off. Chop the veal very fine. Scald the liver, dry it with a towel, and chop it also very fine. Cut the bacon or ham into dice. Line an ordinary tin one- quart basin about two inches deep with a sheet of the plain paste. In the bottom put a layer of veal, next a layer of fois gras, next a layer of mushrooms, chopped, then a layer of liver, then a sprinkling of ham, pepper and salt, and so on until the materials are used. Roll out another piece of paste for the top cover, make an opening in the centre, place it over the top, and press the edges of the upper and the under crust firmly together. With a sharp knife cut a few leaves from the trimmings of the paste, arrange them tastefully in the centre of the top crust. Place it in a quick oven, and bake one hour; as soon as the top crust is a nice brown, cover it with a sheet of writing-paper to pre- vent its burning. When done, carefully lift it from the basin, place it on a folded napkin, and serve. 388 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK OYSTER PATTIES i batch of puff paste 25 nice fat oysters 1 pint of milk or cream 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of corn-starch Salt and pepper to taste Roll out the puff paste about an inch thick. Then, with a round tin cutter, cut out a patty, and lay it on a greased tin sheet. Brush it lightly over the top with the beaten yolk of an egg, being careful not to allow any of the yolk to run down the sides, as it cements the edges together and prevents it from being light; then take a cutter, two sizes smaller, and press it in the centre and nearly through the patty, and so on until you have the whole cut. Now put them on the ice for a half-hour, or until the oven is very hot (4000 Fahr.). Then bake about twenty minutes, or until a nice brown. The inside cut acts as a non-con- ductor, and prevents the heat from reaching the centre, consequently all the paste inside this ring should be unbaked. Now remove the lid crust carefully, and save it for the lid of the patty. Take out this unbaked portion with a spoon. Put the patties back in the oven for ten minutes; leave the door open, as they only want a little drying. Now put the oysters on to boil, in their own liquor; as soon as they boil, drain them. Put the milk or cream on to boil in a farina boiler. Rub the butter and corn-starch together until smooth, and add to the boiling milk or cream; stir until it boils, add salt and pepper, and last, the oysters; let boil up again, and take from the fire. TO FILL THE PATTIES Put two oysters and a little sauce in each one, put on the lid, and serve. For what to do with the unbaked paste, see remarks "What to Save, and How to Use It." PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS HOT PUDDINGS AMBER PUDDING Four eggs, their weight in butter, sugar and rice flour, juice and rind of one lemon. Beat the butter to a cream, then add gradually the sugar. Beat the eggs, without sep- arating, until very light; then add them gradually to the other mixture, beating all the while; then add the flour and beat until smooth. Butter a plain pudding mould, with a cover; pour the pudding into it, stand it in a pot of boiling water, and boil continuously for two hours. Serve hot, with Brandy Sauce. BATTER PUDDING i quart of milk i teaspoonful of salt i cup of flour 6 eggs Add the salt to the flour and sift it. Beat the eggs, yolks and whites together, until creamy: add to the milk. Add this gradually to the flour, beating all the while. Now strain through a sieve, to remove any lumps of flour that may be in it. Pour into a greased pudding mould, put on the cover, and stand the mould in a pot of boiling water. Boil continuously for two hours. Do not move the pot, or jar the stove, or the pudding will fall. If necessary to add 390 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK more water to the pot while boiling the pudding, be sure to add boiling water, so as not to check the boiling for a moment, or this will also make it heavy. When done, lift the mould gently from the boiling water, remove the cover, put a round dish on top of the mould; now turn the mould upside down, and gently remove it, leaving the pudding on the dish. Serve with Fairy Butter. BATTER PUDDING WITH CHERRIES i pint of milk i tablespoonful of melted butter 3/4 cups of flour 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of 3 eggs baking-powder l4 teaspoonful of salt i pint of stoned cherries Beat the eggs, whites and yolks together, until light; then add the milk, then the flour, and beat until smooth; then add the butter melted, salt and baking-powder. Drain the cherries, dredge them with flour, stir them into the pud- ding, and turn into a greased pudding mould. Cover, stand in a pot of boiling water, and boil continuously for three hours. If the water evaporates in the pot, replenish with boiling water. Serve with Fairy Butter. BLACKBERRY PUDDING Make same as Batter Pudding with Cherries, using a pint of blackberries instead of a pint of cherries. Strawberry, huckleberry, and raspberry puddings may be made in the same way. BIRD'S-NEST PUDDING (HOT) Pare and core six tart apples; then put them in the bottom of a buttered baking-dish. Mix one pint of thick, sour cream with two and a half cups of flour, until smooth; then add a half-teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a tablespoonful of boiling water; mix again, pour over the apples, and bake in a moderate oven one hour. Serve hot, with Hard Sauce. PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 391 BABA PUDDING ft pound of butter 4 eggs i2 ounces of flour ft cup of raisins ft yeast cake or a half- ft pound of mixed candied cup of yeast French fruit ft cup of chopped citron Add to the yeast, or the half-cake dissolved in a quarter- cup of lukewarm water, sufficient flour to make a soft dough; make this into a biscuit, cut a cross on the top, and put it into a bowl of lukewarm water; as soon as it floats, take it out, and it is ready to use—this will take about ten mvam utes. Beat the butter to a cream, add to it the eggs we™ beaten, and then the flour; mix well, then add the biscuit, and knead with the hands until very light. Now raise the dough and throw it on the board with force; repeat this until it leaves your hand without sticking to it. Now add the raisins and citron, knead until thoroughly mixed, put into a greased Turk's head, and stand in warm place (720 Fahr.), for two hours and a half, to rise. When light, put on the ice or in a cold place for twenty minutes. Now bake in a quick oven for about three-quartey^of an hour. Chop the candied fruit, put it into a saucepan with a half- cup of sugar and a half-cup of boiling water, let boil five minutes; take from the fire, add a teaspoonful of caramel, and, if you use it, a tablespoonful of brandy. When the pudding is done, turn it from the mould, fill the hole in the centre with candied fruit, and serve with Brandy Sauce. CABINET PUDDING i quart of broken stale cake 3 eggs * or bread i ft pints of milk % teaspoonful of salt i teaspoonful of vanilla Beat the eggs, whites and yolks together, until light; add the milk, and, if you use cake, two tablespoonfuls of sugar; if bread, a half-cup of sugar. Grease a pudding mould, 392 • PHILADELPHIA COOK ROOK sprinkle the bottom with raisins, then put in a layer of cake or bread, then a sprinkling of raisins, and so on until the cake or bread is all used. Add the vanilla and salt to the milk and egg, pour it into the mould; it should just cover the bread or cake. Put on the lid of the mould and let it stand fifteen minutes; then place in a pot of boiling water, and boil continuously for one hour. Turn it care- fully out of the mould. Serve hot, with Lemon Sauce. COUSIN CAROLINE'S PUDDING .. > i cup of molasses i cup of milk *-"' y2 cup of melted butter y2 cup of wine 3^ cups of flour i teaspoonful of cinnamon y2 teaspoonful of baking- y2 teaspoonful of cloves soda i nutmeg, grated i pinch of salt Dissolve the baking-soda in a tablespoonful of boiling water, then stir it in the molasses; add the butter melted, then the milk and flour; beat all until smooth; then add the spice, salt and wine; pour it into a two-quart mould, well- greased, or a floured pudding-bag, allowing it plenty of room to swel4 and put into a pot of boiling water to boil continuously for three hours. Serve hot, with Foamy Sauce. COTTAGE PUDDING i tablespoonful of butter 2 eggs 1 cup of sugar 1 large teaspoonful of y2 cup of milk baking-powder 1 y2 cups of flour Beat the butter, sugar and yolks of the eggs together untii light; add the milk and then the flour. Beat well. Now beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir them carefully into the pudding; add the baking-powder, and mix well; pour into a greased cake pan and bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Serve hot, with Lemon Sauce, PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 393 BAKED INDIAN PUDDING (Mrs. E. C. Walraven, Philadelphia) Into a quart of boiling milk stir gradually three gills of yellow Indian meal, a half-pint of molasses and a teaspoon- ful'of salt. Scald thoroughly and add two tablespoonfuls of powdered ginger. Into a buttered earthen pan pour a quart of cold milk, and add a half-pound of chopped beef's suet; into this pour the scalded Indian meal, stir well, and bake in a moderate oven five hours. Serve with Hard Sauce. STEAMED INDIAN PUDDING % pound of beef's suet Small piece of stick cinnamon Grated rind of one lemon 1 pint of Indian meal i pint of milk 3 eggs i gill of molasses Chop the suet very fine and mix it with the Indian meal. Put the cinnamon in the milk, then put it in a farina boiler to scald, strain it while hot, and stir in gradually the Indian meal and suet; add the molasses, cover the mixture, and let it stand over night. In the morning beat the eggs, with- out separating, until very light, stir them into the pudding, turn into a greased mould or a well-floured pudding-bag, leaving plenty of room for it to swell. If in a mould, put on the cover; if in a bag, secure it well at the tying-place, lest the water should get in, which will infallibly spoil it. Put it into a pot of boiling water, and boil continuously for five hours. Replenish the water, as it evaporates, with boiling water. When ready to serve, remove the pudding carefully from the mould or bag, and serve immediately with Wine Sauce, '.^i 394 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK THE PUDDING OF LONG AGO 4 large tart apples ^ of a nutmeg, grated 4 ounces of stale bread crumbs teaspoonful of salt i teaspoonful of cinnamon 4 eggs Pare and chop the apples very fine; mix them with the bread crumbs. Beat the eggs separately until very light, then add the yolks to the crumbs, stir in the whites care- fully, add the salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg; mix carefully, and boil in a greased mould three hours. Serve hot, with Foamy Sauce. Good. NEW CENTURY PUDDING i cup of suet i cup of currants i cup of sugar 2 eggs i cup of milk y teaspoonful of salt 3 cups of flour i teaspoonful of cinnamon i cup of raisins i teaspoonful of baking-powder Shred and chop the suet fine; stone the raisins; pick, wash, and dry the currants. Beat the suet, sugar, and yolks of the eggs together until light, then add the milk and flour; beat until smooth, add the spices, salt, and whites of the eggs well beaten; then add the baking- powder; mix well, and add the fruit well floured; turn into a greased mould, and boil continuously for three hours. Serve hot, with Wine or Hard Sauce. Good. FIG PUDDING Make the same as New Century Pudding, using one pound of figs cut into small pieces, instead of the raisins and currants. FRENCH FRUIT PUDDING Make the same as New Century Pudding, using a half-pound of candied cherries and a half-pound of candied green gages, instead of the raisins and currants. PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 395 DATE PUDDING Make the same as New Century Pudding, using one pound of dates stoned and cut into small pieces, instead of the raisins and currants. SARATOGA PUDDING i cup of molasses 3 cups of flour 1 cup of milk 1 cup of chopped suet 1 cup of raisins 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon 1 cup of currants J^ of a nutmeg, grated 1 gill of brandy ^ teaspoonful of salt. Mix the suet and molasses, add the milk, then the flour and spices; beat well, then add the fruit well floured, the brandy, salt, and a teaspoonful of baking-powder; mix all well together, and turn into a greased mould or pudding- bag; allow plenty of room for swelling, and boil contin- ually for three hours. Serve hot, with Brandy Sauce. PEACH PUDDING 6 large peaches 1 pint of flour 1 egg y teaspoonful of salt Y^ cup of milk Butter the size of an egg 1 large teaspoonful of baking-powder Rub the butter into the flour, then add the salt and baking- powder. Pare the peaches, cut them in halves, and take out the stones. Beat the egg until light, add it to the milk, and pour this into the flour; give a thorough beating, and pour into a greased baking-pan. Have the batter about one inch thick. Put the peaches over this, the stone side up, fill the hollow places with sugar, and bake in a quick oven thirty minutes. Serve hot, with sugar and cream. Apples may be used instead of peaches. 396 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING (A Two-Guinea Prize Plum Pudding) Out of five hundred recipes sent the Queen, the following was awarded the prize:— i pound of raisins % pound of flour i pound of suet, chopped fine i pound of currants V\ pound of stale bread crumbs y, of a nutmeg, grated './± pound of brown sugar 5 eggs Grated rind of one lemon v£ pint of brandy y2 pound of minced candied orange-peel Clean, wash, and dry the currants. Stone the raisins. Mix all the dry ingredients well together. Beat the eggs, add to them the brandy, then pour them over the dry in- gredients, and thoroughly mix. Pack into greased small kettles or moulds (this will make about six pounds), and boil for six hours at the time of making, and six hours when wanted for use. Serve with Hard or Brandy Sauce. PLAIN PLUM PUDDING (Miss Emily Campbell, Philadelphia) 1 pint of stale bread crumbs 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon 1 cup of flour y 2 nutmeg, grated 1 cup of stoned rasins Y cup of molasses Juice and rind of one lemon 3 eggs 1 cup of washed currants y, pound of suet 1 cup of brown sugar Y pound of citron y2 teaspoonful of baking-soda Mix well all the dry ingredients. Beat the eggs, add the molasses. Dissolve the soda in a tablespoonful of hot water, add it to the molasses and eggs, then mix into the dry in- gredients, and pack into a greased mould; boil four hours. Serve with Hard or Brandy Sauce. PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 397 SWEET POTATO PUDDING ^ pound of sweet potatoes ^ pound of sugar Juice and rind of one lemon 6 ounces of butter Juice and rind of one orange 8 eggs % teaspoonful of mace J^ teaspoonful of salt i even teaspoonful of cinnamon Pare the potatoes and grate them. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream. Beat the eggs, whites and yolks to- gether, until very, very light, then add them to the butter and sugar; add the grated potatoes and all the other in- gredients, beat well, turn into a buttered baking-dish, and bake in a moderately quick oven three-quarters of an hour. Serve hot or cold with sauce. If you use liquor, you may add to the pudding, when mixing, one gill of sherry and two tablespoonfuls of brandy. ROLY POLY No. i y2 pound of flour ]^ teaspoonful of salt 5 ounces of suet i pint of fruit jam or jelly Free the suet from the fibre and skin, and then chop it very fine, add the flour and salt; mix well, and add gradually sufficient cold water to make it stick together. Now roll it out (about one inch in thickness) on a well-floured baking- board, spread the jam thickly over the paste, roll it up, and tie in a well-floured cloth, leaving plenty of room for it to swell. Put it into a pot of boiling water, and boil it two hours, or it may be steamed two hours and a half. Serve hot, with Foamy Sauce. ROLY POLY No. a Take about one quart of bread dough that is light enough to bake, and roll it out about a half-inch in thickness, spread it all over with fruit, jam or preserves, and finish same as Roly Poly, No. i. 398 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK SUET PUDDING i cup of suet i cup of molasses i cup of raisins i cup of milk 3 cups of flour i teaspoonful-of cinnamon ^ teaspoonful of salt i teaspoonful of baking-powder Shred and chop the suet fine. Pick and stone the raisins. Add the molasses to the suet, then the milk; mix well, and add the salt, flour, and cinnamon; beat vigorously for two minutes, then add the raisins, well floured, and the baking- powder; mix thoroughly, and turn into a greased mould or pudding-bag. Boil continually for three hours. Serve hot, with Wine or Hard Sauce. TAPIOCA PUDDING i cup of tapioca i quart of milk 4 eggs % teaspoonful of salt l/z cup of sugar i teaspoonful of vanilla Wash the tapioca through several cold waters, then add it to the milk and soak two hours. Beat the eggs and sugar together until light, add the salt, and bake in a moderate oven three-quarters of an hour. Serve hot or cold. WAFER PUDDING i pint of milk y2 pint of flour yd pound of butter Yolks of seven eggs Whites of four eggs Put the milk in a farina boiler, when boiling add the but- ter, stir until dissolved, then quickly throw in the flour, and stir over the fire for five minutes. Take from the fire and stand aside to cool. Beat the yolks and whites together until very, very light/add them to the mixture, and beat with the hand for ten minutes. Cover, and stand in a warm place for one hour. Grease gem pans or muffin rings, put a tablespoonful of the mixture in each one, and bake in a quick oven for forty minutes. Serve hot, with Foamy Sauce. PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 899 COLD PUDDINGS BIRD'S-NEST PUDDING (COLD) FOR THE NEST Make an Orange Jelly (see recipe). Turn a pie dish upside down in the bottom of a two-quart round tin basin, pour the jelly in the basin over the pie dish, and stand away to harden. FOR THE STRAWS Cut the orange peel into fine strips with the scissors. Boil one cup of sugar and a half-cup of water to the crack, that is, until it hardens when dropped in cold water. Dip the straws into this syrup and place on greased papers to harden. FOR THE EGGS Put one pint of milk on to boil in a farina boiler, moisten four tablespoonfuls of corn-starch with a little cold milk, and stir into the boiling milk; stir until it thickens, then add a quarter-cup of sugar and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Have ready some egg shells that have been emptied from a small hole in the top, fill them with this mixture, stand in a pan of Indian meal or flour to prevent them from falling over, and put in a cold place to harden. When the jelly is hard, whip a pint of cream. Now turn the jelly out on a round glass dish, remove the pie dish carefully, put the straws around the space left by the pie dish, representing a nest, and fill the nest, inside the straws, with the whipped cream, representing feathers. Break the shells carefully off the corn-starch eggs, and put them in the centre of the nest, and it is ready to serve. Just as troublesome as it reads, but beautiful when done. BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING Cut in thin slices a baker's five-cent loaf. Wash and pick one cup of currants. Butter each slice of bread. Put a 400 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK layer of this bread in the bottom of a one-quart mould or basin, then a sprinkling of currants, and so on until all is used. Beat four eggs and a half-cup of sugar together until light; add gradually one pint of milk, and a quarter of a nutmeg, grated. Pour this over the bread, let stand fifteen minutes and bake in a moderate oven thirty minutes. Serve cold, with Cream Sauce. CREAM CHOCOLATE PUDDING i pint of milk 4 tablespoonfuls of corn-starch y2 cup of sugar 2 ounces of chocolate 4 eggs 1 teaspoonful of vanilla Put the chocolate in a saucepan, and stand it over the tea- kettle to melt; stir until perfectly smooth. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler; moisten the corn-starch with a little cold water (about a quarter-cup), and add it to the boiling milk; cook and stir until thick and smooth. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth; add the sugar to the milk, then the whites, and beat all well together over the fire. Take from the fire, add the vanilla. Now take out one-third of the mixture, add to it the chocolate; mix well. Dip a plain pudding mould into cold water, put in the bottom of it half the white mixture, then all the dark, and then the remainder of the white. Stand on the ice for three hours to harden. Serve with Vanilla Sauce poured around it. COCOANUT PUDDING i cocoanut }^ cup of sugar 1 pint of milk 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 3 eggs Beat the eggs all together until light, add the milk, sugar, vanilla, and cocoanut, grated; stir until thoroughly mixed, and bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. Serve cold. • 1 PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 401 CREAM COCOANUT PUDDING 2 cups of grated cocoanut i pint of milk 4 tablespoonfuls of corn-starch 4 eggs i teaspoonful of vanilla l^ cup of sugar Put the milk in a farina boiler; moisten the corn-starch in a little cold milk, then add it to the boiling milk; stir until smooth. Beat the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth. Add the sugar to the pudding, then the whites. Beat well over the fire for three minutes. Now add the cocoanut and vanilla, and turn into a mould to harden. Serve with Vanilla Sauce. CREAM CORN-STARCH PUDDING (VANILLA) 1 pint of milk y2 cup of sugar 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 4 even tablespoonfuls of corn-starch 4 egg's Make the same as Chocolate Pudding, omitting the choco- late, and adding the vanilla to the whole pudding. DANDY PUDDING 1 quart of milk 4 eggs 2 tablespoonfuls of corn-starch y2 cup of sugar 1 teaspoonful of vanilla Put the milk on to boil. Moisten the corn-starch with a little cold milk, and add to the boiling milk. Stir and boil for five minutes. Beat the yolks of the eggs and sugar to- gether until light, and add to the boiling milk. Take from the fire, add the flavoring, and pour it into a baking-dish. Beat the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth, add to them two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and heap on the top of the pudding; put it in the oven for a few min- utes, until a light brown. Serve ice cold. PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 403 whites around the base. Cut the colored jelly that you hardened in the pie dish into squares or fancy shapes, placing them here and there over the whites as your taste may direct. HESTON PUDDING i pint of boiling water 4 even tablespoonfuls of corn- 3 eggs starch 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar ^ teaspoonful of salt Moisten the corn-starch with a little cold water, add it to the boiling water, sugar, and salt; stir, and boil ten min- utes. Take from the fire, add the vanilla and the well- beaten whites of the eggs; mix well, and turn into a mould to harden. Serve with a Vanilla Sauce made from the yolks of the eggs. MARLBOROUGH PUDDING i pint of stewed apples 1 teaspoonful of vanilla y2 cup of butter 2 cups of sugar 6 eggs 1 quart of milk Press the apples through a sieve. Beat the yolks and sugar together, then add the milk and flavoring. Add the but- ter to the apples while hot, then mix with the milk and eggs; pour into a baking-dish, and bake in a quick oven thirty-five minutes. Beat the whites of the eggs until frothy, add six tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and beat until they will stand alone. Heap them over the top of the pudding, and put back in the oven a moment to brown. Serve cold, with sugar and cream. This will serve eight persons. NEWPORT PUDDING Pare and core six medium-sized apples; steam until tender. While they are steaming, boil a half-cup of sugar, a quarter- cup of water, and the juice of one orange together for five minutes. When the apples are done, place them in the 404 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK bottom of a baking-dish, pour over them the boiling syrup, and stand aside to cool. Put one pint of milk on to boil. Beat a half-cup of sugar and the yolks of three eggs to- gether, and add to the boiling milk. Take from the fire, add six macaroons pounded hue and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Fill- the spaces from which the cores were taken with pre- serves; pour this custard over the apples, and bake in a moderate oven fifteen minutes. Beat the whites of the three eggs with three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar to a stiff froth, heap them over the top of the pudding, and put back in the oven a moment to brown. Serve icy cold. This will fill a two-quart baking-dish. ORANGE PUDDING y£ pound of macaroons y2 cupful of sugar i pint of milk 4 eggs The rind of one and juice of two oranges. Put the macaroons in the milk, and soak until soft. Beat the eggs and sugar together until light (do not separate the eggs), then add them to the milk and beat the whole until smooth; then add the orange juice and rind. Pour into a well-buttered pudding-mould (a small tin kettle will answer), put on the cover, stand the mould in a pot of boiling water, and boil continuously for one hour. Serve hot with Orange Sauce. Lemon pudding may be made the same as Orange Pudding, using the juice and rind of one lemon. Serve with Lemon Sauce. QUAKING PUDDING 1 cup of grated bread crumbs 1 quart of milk 2 tablespoon fuls of rice flour 4 eggs 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar A grating of nutmeg Put the bread crumbs into a bowl. Beat the eggs, sugar, and rice flour together until light, then add them to the PUDDINGS AA'D DESSERTS' 405 milk; then pour this over the crumbs, add the nutmeg, mix well, and pour into a greased mould or pudding-bag. Put in a pot of boiling water, and boil continuously one hour. Serve hot, with Wine or Lemon Sauce. QUEEN MAB'S PUDDING l4 box of gelatine i pint of milk i pint of cream 4 eggs 1 teaspoon ful of vanilla 3/3 of a cup of sugar Cover the gelatine with cold water, and soak a half-hour. Whip the cream. Put the milk on to boil; when boiling, dissolve the gelatine in it, and strain. Beat the yolks and sugar together, stir into the boiling milk, and cook two minutes. Take from the fire, add the vanilla, and turn out into a tin basin to cool. Stand the basin in a pan of cracked ice, and stir constantly until it begins to thicken; then add the whipped cream; mix thoroughly, turn into a mould, and set away to harden. Serve with whipped cream heaped around it. QUEEN OF ALL PUDDINGS 1 pint of bread crumbs 1 quart of milk 1 cup of sugar 4 eggs 1 ounce of butter Juice and rind of one lemon Soak the crumbs in the milk for a half-hour. Beat the yolks and sugar together until light, then add them to the crumbs and milk; mix and add the lemon. Pour into the pudding dish, and bake in a moderate oven a half-hour. Whip the whites of the eggs until frothy; add to them four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and beat until very stiff. When the pudding is done, put over, the top a layer of the whites, then a layer of fruit jelly, then another layer of whites, and put back in the oven a moment to brown. Serve cold, with Cream Sauce. This will serve eight persons. 4(X> PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK ROYAL DIPLOMATIC PUDDING i box of gelatine Juice of four oranges Juice of four lemons i pound of sugar i pint of cold water ij4 pints of boiling water % pound of candied cherries y£ pound of angelica Half the rule for Orange Cream Cover the gelatine with the cold water, and let soak one hour. Then pour on it the boiling water; add the sugar, and the juice of the oranges and lemons; stir until the sugar is dissolved; strain through a flannel bag, and stand away to cool, but not harden. Have two plain moulds, one hold- ing two quarts, and the other holding one quart. While the jelly is cooling, dip the larger mould into ice water, and garnish with the cherries and angelica; dip them in a little of the jelly and that will make them stick to the mould, and you can then arrange them in any form you choose. For instance, make a rose of the cherries, and leaves and stems of the angelica. Then cover with a little of the liquid gelatine, which must be cold, and stand it in a pan of cracked ice to harden. When this jelly is perfectly hard, set the small mould in the centre of the large one, and fill it with cracked ice; fill the space between the two moulds with the remainder of the liquid jelly, and stand away until perfectly hard; this will take at least five hours. When hard, remove the ice from the small mould; dip out with a spoon, the water from the melted ice, and wipe the inside of the mould with a towel that has been dipped in warm water. This will loosen the mould, and you can lift it out carefully, Fill the vacant space with the orange cream; stand away in a cold place for three hours. Serve with a Vanilla Sauce poured around it. This is a troublesome pudding, but very good and sightly. 408 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the yolks of the eggs and four tablespoonfuls of the sugar together un- til light, stir into the boiling milk, and stir continually until it thickens; take from the fire, add the vanilla, and stand aside to cool. Beat the whites of the eggs, adding gradually the remaining sugar, to a stiff froth, and then beat until they will stand alone; add the lemon, and mix thor- oughly. Pour the custard over the lady fingers; heap the meringue over the top, and stand on a board in the oven a moment to brown. Brown quickly before the dish heats, or the pudding will curdle. This will serve six persons. FROZEN PUDDINGS ICED CABINET PUDDING i quart of milk 6 eggs l/( pound of pulverized sugar j4 box of gelatine % pound of macaroons and lady fingers mixed 14 pound of candied cherries or preserved fruit y pound of stale sponge cake Cut the sponge cake into small pieces. Pound the maca- roons and lady fingers and rub them through a coarse sieve. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the eggs until creamy, then add the sugar; beat until smooth, and stir into the boiling milk; stir until it coats a knife-blade; take from the fire, and add the gelatine, which has been covered with cold water, and soak a half-hour; then strain and stand aside to cool. Garnish the bottom of a melon or brick mould with the candied cherries or preserves; then put in a layer of the broken sponge cake, then a PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 409 sprinkling of the pounded macaroons and lady fingers, then another layer of cherries, then a layer of broken sponge cake, and so on until all is used. Add a table- spoonful of vanilla to the custard; pour it into the mould and cover the mould tightly with the lid. Dip a piece of muslin two inches wide, and long enough to go around the mould, into melted butter; bind it over the joint where the lid and mould come together; pack in ice and salt, and freeze three hours. When ready to serve, dip the mould quickly into hot water, and turn the pudding on a cold dish. Serve with Montrose Sauce. This will serve ten persons. MONTROSE PUDDING i quart of good cream Yolks of six eggs i cup of granulated sugar i tablespoonful of vanilla i pint of strawberry water-ice Put one pint of cream on to boil in farina boiler. Beat the yolks and sugar together until light, stir them into the boiling cream, and cook and stir until it thickens (about one minute). Take from the fire, add the remaining pint of cream, and the vanilla, let stand until cool, and freeze. When frozen, pack into a round mould, or bomb, leaving a well in the centre. Fill this well with the strawberry water-ice, cover it over with some of the pudding you have taken out. Pack in salt and ice, and let stand until wanted (not less that two hours). Serve with the follow- ing sauce poured around it. THE SAUCE i heaping tablespoonful i pint of cream of gelatine Yolks of three eggs ^ cup of pulverized sugar i teaspoonful of vanilla Cover the gelatine with a little cold water, and soak a half- hour. Put the cream on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat 410 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK the eggs and sugar together until light, add to the boiling cream, stir until it thickens (about one minute), add the gelatine, stir until dissolved; take from the fire, add the vanilla, and (if you use it) two tablespoonfuls of brandy and four of sherry. Stand it away in a cold place until wanted. If you have no round mould, use the freezer to mould it. This quantity will serve twelve persons. NESSELRODE PUDDING i pint of chestnuts i pint of almonds i pint of sugar i pint of cream i pint of boiling water i pineapple or one pint of i pound of French can- canned died fruit (mixed) Yolks of six eggs Shell the chestnuts, take off the brown skin, put them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, and boil twenty min- utes, then press them through a colander. Shell, blanch and pound the almonds. Cut the fruit into small pieces. Put the water and sugar on to boil; let it boil fifteen min- utes. Beat the yolks of the eggs until very light; add them to the boiling syrup; stir over the fire until it boils, then take it off, and beat with a wire spoon until cold. Now add the fruit, cream, almonds, chestnuts, and a table- spoonful of vanilla, and (if you use wine) four tablespoon- fuls of sherry. Mix all well together, turn into the freezer, and freeze. After it is frozen, drain off the water, add more salt and ice, cover the freezer with a piece of carpet, and stand away for four or five hours to ripen. This will serve fifteen persons. MY QUEEN PUDDING Pack a two-quart bombe-glace mould in salt and ice. Remove the cover, being careful not to drop any salt in- side the mould. Now line the mould with strawberry or PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 411 pomegranate water-ice, fill the centre with French bombe mixture, press the lid down tightly, cover with salt and ice, and stand away two hours or more to freeze. When ready to serve, wash the outside of the mould in cold water, turn the pudding out carefully in the centre of a large round dish, heap around it sweetened whipped cream. Place here and there over the cream candied cherries and mar- rons glacis. ICED RICE PUDDING WITH A COMPOTE OF ORANGES FOR THE PUDDING y2 cup of rice i pint of milk i quart of cream \y2 cups of sugar Yolks of six eggs i tablespoonful of vanilla 2 quarts of rock salt 10 pounds of ice Rub the rice well in a clean towel, put it on to boil in one pint of cold water, boil a half-hour; drain, cover with the milk, and boil a half-hour longer. While this is boiling, whip the quart of cream. After you have whipped all you can, add the remainder, and what has drained from the other, to the rice and milk. Stand the whipped cream in a cold place until wanted. Now press the rice through a wire sieve, and return it to the farina boiler, in which it was boiled. Beat the yolks and sugar together until light, then pour over the boiling rice, stir well, return again to the fire and cook two minutes, or until it begins to thicken. Take from the fire, add the vanilla, and turn out to cool. When cool, put into the freezer and freeze (see directions for freezing). When frozen, stir in the whipped cream, remove the dasher and smooth down, and let stand for two hours, packed in salt and ice. FOR THE COMPOTE r dozen sweet oranges i pound of sugar Juice of quarter of a lemon i gill of water 412 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Put the sugar and water on to boil; boil ten minutes, skim, and add the lemon juice. Peel the oranges, cut them in halves crosswise; cut out the cores with a sharp knife; put a few pieces at a time in the hot syrup, and lay them out singly on a flat dish; pour over them the -remaining syrup and stand on the ice to cool. To dish the pudding, lift the can out of the ice and wipe it off so that the salt will not get into the pudding; then wipe the bottom with a towel dipped in boiling water, put a round dish over the top of it, turn it upside down and remove the can; if it should stick, wipe again with the hot towel. Heap the oranges on top and around the base of the pudding, and pour the syrup over them. Serve immediately. This is worth the trouble; besides being good, it is a very handsome dish. DESSERTS BLANC MANGE i quart of milk 8 even tablespoonfuls of y2 cup of sugar corn-starch y( teaspoonful of salt Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Moisten the corn-starch with a little cold milk, then add it to the boil- ing milk, and stir until it thickens; add the sugar and salt, take from the fire, pour into custard cups, and set away to harden. Serve with Cream Sauce. This will serve five or six persons. FRUIT BLANC MANGE One quart of stewed or one can of fruit, (cherries, rasp- berries, and strawberries are l>est). Strain off all the juice, sweeten it to taste, and put it on to boil. Moisten three even tablespoonfuls of corn-starch with a little cold PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 413 water, and stir it into the boiling juice. Boil and continue stirring five minutes, then add the fruit, pour it into a mould that has been wet with ice-water, and stand away to cool. Serve cold, with sugar and cream. This will fill a one-quart mould. CREAM CAKE PIE Make a plain cup cake, and bake it in an oval tin basin. When done and cold, split it into three layers. Put one quart of milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the yolks of six eggs and a half-cup of sugar together until light, then add the well-beaten whites, and stir them into the boiling milk; stir over the fire for about one minute, then take from the fire, add one teaspoonful of vanilla, and stand away to cool. When cold, and ready to serve, put a layer of this sauce between the layers of cake, pour the remaining sauce around in the bottom of the dish, and serve imme- diately. ORANGE CAKES WITH VANILLA SAUCE Take small, stale sponge cakes (lady fingers), dip them in orange juice, place them in a glass dish, and pour over them Vanilla Sauce. Serve at once. If you use wine, you may dip them in sherry. STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE i quart of flour 2 ounces of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 quart of cream 2 quart-boxes of strawberries 2 teaspoonfuls of baking- Sugar and milk powder Stem the berries, sweeten to taste, and slightly mash them with a wooden spoon. Rub the butter into the flour, then add the salt, baking-powder, and sufficient milk to make a soft dough; mix quickly, roll out about one and one-half inches in thickness, put into a greased, large, square baking- pan, and bake in a very quick oven for twenty minutes. 414 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK When done, take from the oven, split in halves and spread each half lightly with butter. Place the lower half in a large meat plate; put half the berries on this, then cover with the other half of the shortcake; cover this with the remaining half of the berries, pour the cream around, and serve immediately. This will serve eight persons. APPLE CHARLOTTE 6 large apples i pint of cream y box of gelatine Sugar to taste Pare and steam the apples until tender, then press them through a colander and add the sugar. Cover the gelatine with cold water and soak a half-hour, then add it to the hot apples; stir until dissolved. Now pour this into a tin basin, stand the basin in a pan of ice-water, and stir con- tinually until the mixture begins to thicken; then add quickly and carefully the cream, whipped. Turn in a fancy pudding-mould, and stand in a cold place to harden. This will serve eight persons. CHARLOTTE RUSSE * i quart of good cream y, pound of lady fingers y± cup of powdered sugar y2 box of gelatine i teaspoonful of vanilla y2 gill sherry (if you use wine) Cover the gelatine with cold water, and let it soak for a half-hour. Whip the cream and lay it on a sieve to drain. Line two plain two-quart mould^with the lady fingers. Now turn the cream into a large basin and place it in a pan of cracked ice; add to the soaked gelatine just enough boiling water to dissolve it. Now add the sugar carefully to the cream, then the vanilla and wine, and last, strain in the gelatine. Commence to stir immediately; stir from the sides and bottom of the basin until it begins to thicken, then pour into the moulds and set away on the ice to harden. PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 415 PARISIAN CHARLOTTE y£ box of gelatine i quart of cream i cup of grated cocoanut % pound of stale lady ringers y£ pound of macaroons 4 eggs 2 tablespoon fuls of sugar Cover the gelatine with cold water and let it soak a half- hour. Whip one-half the cream, and stand it away until wanted. Put the remaining half to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the eggs and sugar together until light (do not separate the eggs), stir into the boiling milk, and stir one minute until it thickens; add the gelatine, take from the fire, add a teaspoonful of vanilla and the lady fingers, macaroons and cocoanut, and turn into a basin. Now place the basin in a pan of cracked ice, and stir continually until it just begins to thicken; then add the whipped cream, and stir very carefully until thoroughly mixed. Wet a fancy mould with cold water, turn in the mixture and stand on the ice to harden. Or, cut the centre out of a one-pound, stale sponge cake, leaving a bottom and sides about a half-inch thick, and pour the mixture into this instead of the mould. Serve with Montrose Sauce. APRICOT BAVARIAN CREAM 1 pint-can or one pint fresh y2 box of gelatine apricots y2 pint of cold water 1 pint of cream Cover the gelatine with the water and let soak a half-hour. Press the apricots through a colander; if fresh, first stew and sweeten them. Stir the gelatine over boiling water until dissolved. Whip the cream. Add the gelatine to the apricots, mix, and turn into a tin basin; stand the basin in a pan of cracked ice or snow, and stir constantly until it begins to thicken; then add the whipped cream, 41G PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK stir carefully until thoroughly mixed; turn into a mould and stand aside to harden. Serve with whipped cream heaped around the base. COFFEE BAVARIAN CREAM y 2 box gelatine i teaspoonful of vanilla y2 pint of milk i cup of sugar i pint of cream i cup strong boiling coffee Cover the gelatine with cold water and let it soak for a half-hour; then pour over it the boiling coffee; add the sugar, and stir until it is dissolved; then strain into a tin basin; let stand until cool. While it is cooling, whip the cream. When cool, add first the milk, and then the whipped cream; stir carefully until thoroughly mixed, turn into a mould, and set away to harden. Caramel Bavarian Cream may be made as above, using one pint of milk, two tablespoonfuls of caramel, and a gill of sherry instead of the coffee. CHOCOLATE BAVARIAN CREAM i pint of milk y2 box of gelatine i pint of cream 2 ounces of chocolate y2 cup of sugar i teaspoonful of vanilla y2 cup of water Cover the gelatine with the water, and let soak a half-hour. Whip the cream, grate the chocolate, put the milk on to boil; when boiling, add the chocolate and. gelatine, stir until dissolved. Take from the fire, add the sugar and vanilla, then turn into a tin basin to cool; stir continually until it begins to thicken, then add the whipped cream; stir carefully until thoroughly mixed, then turn into a mould to harden. Serve with whipped cream around the base. 418 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK STRAWBERRY BAVARIAN CREAM i quart of strawberries ^ box of gelatine i cup of sugar i pint of cream y cup of cold water Cover the gelatine with the water, and soak a half-hour. Mash the berries and press them through a sieve fine enough to remove the seeds; add the sugar, and stir until dis- solved. Stand the gelatine over boiling water; and, when melted, strain it into the strawberry juice; mix, turn into a tin basin, and finish the same as Raspberry Bavarian Cream. AMERICAN CREAM y2 box of gelatine i cup of sugar i Y pints of milk Juice and rind of one lemon Cover the gelatine with a half-cup of cold water, and soak a half-hour. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler, add the gelatine to it, stir until dissolved, strain, take from the fire, and stand aside until cool. When cold, add the sugar and lemon, stir well, turn into a mould, and stand away to harden. Serve with Cream or Vanilla Sauce. This will serve eight persons. FRIED CREAM i pint of milk i tablespoonful of corn-starch Yolks of three eggs y cup of sugar ^ of a nutmeg, grated i teaspoonful of vanilla 4 tablespoonfuls of flour Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler, moisten the flour and corn-starch in a little cold milk, then add it to the boiling milk. Stir, and boil five minutes. Now add the sugar, nutmeg, and the yolks of three eggs well beaten. Let cook one minute; take from fire and add flavoring. Turn into a square mould, and stand in a cold place for four or five hours. Then sprinkle some bread crumbs on a PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 419 baking-board, turn the cream out on them, and cut it into squares. Dip them first' in beaten egg, then in crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Serve with powdered sugar sifted over. HAMBURG CREAM (Mrs. John W. Pepper, Philadelphia) 5 eggs 2 lemons J4 pound of sifted sugar Beat the yolks with the juice and grated rind of the lemons, also the sugar; put it on the fire, and let it come'to a boil. Then add hastily the whites of the eggs beaten stiff. Stir all well together; take immediately off the fire and put in glasses. In making this, always use a farina boiler. This recipe will fill eight.glasses. ITALIAN CREAM i quart of milk 4 eggs y box of gelatine 1 teaspoonful of vanilla J^ cup of sugar- y2 cup of cold water Cover the gelatine with the cold water, and soak a half- hour. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the yolks of the eggs and sugar together until light, then stir them into the boiling milk; stir over the fire a half-minute; take from the fire, add the gelatine and vanilla, and stand aside to cool. When slightly cool, not stiff, add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, turn into a mould, and stand away in a cool place to harden. This is sufficient to fill a mould holding one and a half quarts, and will serve nine people. ORANGE CREAM J^ box of gelatine 1 pint of cream 1 cup of sugar 1 pint of milk 5 oranges Yolks of five eggs Cover the gelatine with cold water, and let it soak for a 420 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK half-hour, Whip the cream. Put the milk on to boil; as soon as it '.oils, dissolve the gelatine in it. Beat the yolks and sugar together until light, and :,train the milk and gelatine into them. Wash the boiler and return the mix- ture to it; stir it over the fire for two minutes and then turn it out to cool. When colds add the juice of the oranges strained through a sieve. Now place the basin in a pan of cracked ice, and stir continually until it just begins to thicken, then add the whipped cream and stir very carefully until thoroughly mixed. Wet a fancy mould with cold water, turn in the mix'ure, and stand on the ice to harden. Serve plain or with whipped cream hesped around it. This is delicious. SNOW CREAM Beat the whites of four eggs until foamy, then add grad- ually iou.- ':' 'espoonfills of powdered sugar, beating all the whil,-. .iien beat until stiff enough to stand alone: add one tablespoonful of sherry and a leaspoonful of vanilla; stir in carefully one pint of cream, whipped. Serve in small glasses. This will serve eight persons. VELVET CREAM Make the same as Charlotte Russe, turn into a fancy mould that has been dipped in cold water, and stand in a cold place to harden. This will serve twelve persons. TAPIOCA CREAM i quart of milk y2 cup of sugar i cup of tapioca 4 eggs 1 teaspoonful of vanilla Soak the tapioca, in cold water enough to cover, over night. PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 421 In the morning, put the milk and tapioca in a farina boiler and boil until the tapioca is clear, stirring all the time. Beat the yolks and sugar together until light; then beat the whites to a stiff froth, stir them carefully into the yolks and sugar, and then add them to the tapioca, and stir and boil about one minut". Take from the fire, add the vanilla, and turn out in a glass dish to cool. This will serve six persons. CROQUAKTE OF PEACHES 18 nice ripe peaches i pound of sugar i pint of small strawberries % pint of water The recipe for Charlotte Rasse Boil the sugar and water together until it is brittle when dropped in cold water; that is, when it begins to boil up in large bubbles, take a fcttle of it on a spoon and drop it into cold water; if it snaps in breaking, it is sufficiently boiled. Take it from the fire immediately. Rub a plain two-quart mould with melted butter or oil. Have ready the peaches pared, cut into halves and stoned, the straw- berries stemmed. Put a piece of peach on a wooden skewer, dip it in the syrup, then dip a berry in the syrup, and place in the centre of the peach where the stone was taken out, then press it against the side of the mould, and so continue until the mould is lined, then stand away in a cold place to hardei.. When hard, fill with Charlotte Russe, and stand in a cold place for an hour or two. When ready to serve, put a plate over the mould, turn it upside down, wipe the outside of the mould with a warm cloth, then carefully lift it off. This dish is both beautiful and good. This will serve eight persons. .122 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK CROQUANTE OF ORANGES 12 sweet oranges i pound of sugar y2 pint of water Charlotte Russe Peel and carefully remove all the white pith from the oranges, then divide them into their small sections with the fingers, being careful not to break the skin. Make the syrup, dip the sections into it, line the mould and finish according to the recipe given for Croquante of Peaches. CROQUANTE OF STRAWBERRIES i quart of strawberries i tablespoon ful of gelatine Charlotte Russe Cover the gelatine with cold water and let it soak a half- hour, then add to it two tablespoonfuls of boiling water and stir until dissolved. Dip a plain two-quart mould in cold water, then stand it in a pan of ice-water. Stem the berries, and dip each one in the gelatine, then press them against the inside of the mould; in this way they will stick, allowing you to arrange them in any fancy design you may choose. A wfeath around the side of the mould and a rose in the bottom made from the berries is very pretty. Angelica may be used for the leaves and*stems, or you may line the mould perfectly solid with the berries. Now fill with Charlotte Russe and stand away to harden. This will serve eight persons. Croquante of Raspberries may be made in the same way. BAKED CUSTARD Make the same as Cup Custard; pour into a baking-dish and bake in a quick oven until firm in the centre. Serve very cold. PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 423 CORN-STARCH CUSTARD i quart of milk J^ cup of sugar 4 eggs i teaspoonful of vanilla 4 tablespoonfuls of corn-starch Put the milk on to boii in a farina boiler. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together until very light. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, then stir them carefully into the yolks and sugar. Moisten the corn-starch with a little cold milk, then stir it into the boiling milk; stir and cook until it begins to thicken, then add the eggs and sugar; stir and cook one minute longer, take from the fire, add the vanilla and turn into a glass dish. Serve icy cold. This will serve eight persons. CUP CUSTARDS i quart of milk 4 eggs y2 cup of sugar ^ of a nutmeg, grated Beat the eggs all together until light, then add the sugar, beat again, add the milk and nutmeg, stir until the sugar is dissolved. Pour into custard cups. Stand the cups in a pan of boiling water and then put the pan in the oven. Bake until the custards are set; that is, firm in the centre. When done, take them out of the water and stand away to cool. Serve in the cups. FRENCH CUSTARD 1 quart of milk 8 eggs 2/l cup of sugar 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 6 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the sugar and yolks of the eggs together until light, then stir them into the boiling milk. Stir over the fire until it begins to thicken, then take it from the fire, add the vanilla and stand aside to cool. As soon as cool, pour into a glass 424 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK dish. Beat the whites until frothy, add gradually the fine sugar, and beat until they will stand alone. Heap them on a dinner-plate, and stand in the oven a moment to brown. As soon as they are brown, loosen them from the plate and slide off gently on top of the custard. Serve very cold, with sponge cake. This will serve ten persons. QUAKING CUSTARD l/t box of gelatine iJ^ pints of milk 5 eggs J^ cup of sugar i teaspoonful of vanilla ^ cup of powdered sugar Cover the gelatine with cold water and soak a half-hour. Put the milk on to boil. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the half-cup of sugar together until light, then stir into the boiling milk; add the gelatine, and stir over the fire for a minute to thicken. Take from the fire, add the vanilla, pour in a mould, and stand away to harden. When ready to serve, beat the whites to a foam, then add gradually the powdered sugar, beating all the while. After all the sugar is added, beat until it will stand alone. Turn the pudding carefully from the mould, heap the whites around it, and serve. This will serve eight persons. RICE CUSTARDS i quart of milk */i cup of sugar 6 tablespoonfuls of rice 4 eggs flour 1 teaspoonful of vanilla Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Moisten the rice flour with a little cold milk. Beat the eggs and sugar together until very light. Now add the rice flour to the boiling milk, stir and cook for five minutes; then add the PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 425 eggs and sugar, and cook one minute longer. Take from the fire, add the vanilla, turn into cups, and stand away in a cold place to cool. Serve cold, with Cream Sauce. This will fill eight cups. FARINA CUSTARDS Make precisely the same as Rice Custards. CUSTARD SOUFFLE (Parloa) 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar i cup of milk 4 eggs Put the milk on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together, add to the boiling milk, stir over the fire for ten minutes. Beat the yolks and sugar together, add them to the milk, and turn the mixture out to cool. When cold, beat the whites to a stiff froth, and add them to the mixture, turn into a greased "baking-dish and bake in a quick oven (4000 Fahr.) for twenty minutes. Serve immediately, with Creamy Sauce. TAPIOCA CUSTARD J^ cup of tapioca 4 eggs J4 cup of sugar 1 tumbler of currant or 1 pint of water strawberry jelly Wash the tapioca through several waters, add it to the pint of water and soak two hours, then add to it the jelly and sugar, and cook slowly until the tapioca is clear. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, stir them into the tapioca, then turn into a mould, and stand away to harden. Serve cold, with Vanilla Sauce made from the yolks of the eggs. This is sufficient for six persons. 9f* 426 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK V \ APPLE DUMPLINGS No. I 1 quart of flour 'V , i Iftrge tablespoonful of 2 heaping teaspoonfuls butter or lard of baking-powder i teaspoonful of salt ^ pint of milk * Pare the apples and take out the cores with a corer. Put the pot over the fire with just enough water to half cover the dumplings; or, if you are going to steam them, which is much the better way, have steamer over the pot, which should be half-full of boiling water. Now put the flour into a bowl, and rub into it the butter or lard, then add the salt and baking-powder, mix well, eaches, but do not take out the stones. RICE DUMPLINGS V i pound of rice \^ i dozen tart apples 2 quarts of wat^r Sugar and cinnamon ^l fVWash the riceJhrough several cold waters, then boil gently in he water ipi* thirty minutes; drain in a colander. Pare thepples an teaspoonful of cloves i]/i pounds of currants i teaspoonful of cinnamon i1/, pounds of raisins y2 teaspoonful of mace Y pound of citron Juice and rind of one orange i pound of flour Juice and rind of one lemon Beat the eggs all together until very light. Beat the butter to a cream, add the sugar, beat again; add the eggs, then the flour and spices, and give the whole agood, vigorous beat- ing. Stem and seed the raisins; clean, wash, and dry the currants; cut the citron into shreds; mix the fruit, and flour it well, then add it to the cake; add the juice and rind of the orange and lemon; stir all well together. Line two round cake-pans with greased paper, pour in the mix- ture, and bake in a very moderate oven four hours. This will make two four-pound cakes. If you use liquor, add, before the fruit, one gill of brandy. FRUIT CAKE No. 2 y2 pound of butter y2 pound of pulverized sugar 8 eggs y2 pound of sifted flour Y pound of raisins Y pound of sultanas Y pound of citron 494 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK JELLY LAYER CAKE Make a Layer Cake; while hot, spread with any kind of tart jelly. PEACH LAYER CAKE Made precisely the same as Apricot Layer Cake. RASPBERRY LAYER CAKE Make the same as Apricot Layer Cake, using large red rasp- berries instead of apricots. Strawberry Layer Cake is made in the same manner. WHITE MOUNTAIN CAKE ii ounces of powdered sugar 6 ounces of butter 5 eggs j£ pint of milk i gill of sherry ^ teaspoonful of powdered 3 heaping teaspoonfuls of mace baking-powder 3 ounces of corn-starch pound of flour Juice and the rind of a i teaspoonful of vanilla lemon Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, then add the yolks, and beat the whole until very, very light; add the vanilla, lemon and mace. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, add them and the milk gradually and alternately to the batter. Sift the corn-starch, baking-powder, and flour together, and add gradually to the mixture, beating thoroughly and quickly all the while; then pour into greased jelly-tins, and bake in a quick oven ten or fifteen minutes. THE FILLING Whites of two eggs pound of powdered sugar i teaspoonful of vanilla i gill of water Boil the sugar and water together until it forms a heavy thread when dropped from a spoon. Beat the whites of the eggs until very stiff, then stir in at once, gradually, the FANCY CAKES 495 boiling syrup, beating quickly all the while. Beat until cold and thick; add the vanilla. When the cakes are done and cold, spread a layer of the rilling on the top of one cake, place another cake on top of it, then another layer of the filling, then another layer of cake; now spread this with the remainder of the filling, and put the remain- ing cake on top; dust with powdered sugar, and it is ready for use. RIBBON CAKE y2 cup of butter 2 cups of sugar 4 eggs i tablespoonful of baking-powder i cup of washed currants i cup of milk 3 cups of flour i teaspoon ful of vanilla i tablespoonful of cinnamon % cup of chopped citron Beat the butter to a cream; add the sugar and then the yolks, and beat thoroughly. Now add flavoring and milk, then the flour. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and stir them carefully into the other ingredients; add the baking- powder, and stir just enough to mix. Now take out one- third of the mixture, and add to it the cinnamon, currants, and chopped citron. Grease three sheet pans of the same size, put the fruit mixture into one, and the remaining two- thirds in the other two pans. Bake in a moderate oven for a half-hour. When done, take from the pans. Spread one light cake with a layer of soft icing, then place the dark cake on this, and spread it with icing, then place the other light cake on this, cover the whole with a piece of paper, and then with a tin sheet, on which place two light weights. Let stand one hour, and then remove the weights. 496 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK CREAM SPONGE CAKE 6 eggs Their weight in sugar, and half their weight in flour Pjit the eggs on one side of the scale and balance with the sugar. Turn the sugar into a bowl, remove three eggs and balance the remaining three with flour. Now break and separate the eggs carefully. Beat the yolks and sugar until very, very light, then add the whites, which have been beaten to a stiff" froth, mix carefully, and slowly sift in the flour. Put a quarter-teaspoon ful of baking-soda into a tablespoon ful of vinegar, stir until dissolved, and stir quickly into the cake. Mix thoroughly and carefully, turn into a well-greased large shallow pan, and bake in a quick oven fifteen minutes. Have ready THE FILLING y2 pint of milk i y2 tablespoonfuls of corn-starch 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar Grated rind of half an orange 2 tablespoonfuls of orange juice Yolks of 3 eggs Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the corn- starch, sugar, and eggs together until light, then stir into the boiling milk, and stir until it thickens; take from the fire, and add the juice and rmd of the orange. Stand away to cool. This should be made before the cake. When the cake is done, turn it carefully from the pan, bottom up- wards, and spread it, while warm, with the filling. Cut the cake in halves, and fold the bottoms together, thus having two layers of cake with a thick layer of filling be- tween. Cover the top with Orange Icing. APEES (Ice Cream and Cakes) • I pound of butter i pound of sugar iyi pounds of flour i gill of milk Cream the butter and sugar; sift in the flour, then the milk, FANCY CAKES 497 and stir it to a dough; turn it out on the moulding-board, and work to a fine dough again. Roll into sheets, as thick as a dollar piece, cut into small cakes, lay them on tins, and bake in a cool oven. PLAIN COOKIES i cup of sugar i teaspoonful of baking- ^ nutmeg, grated powder y2 P'nt of milk Sufficient flour to make a Y cup of butter dough 2 eggs Beat the butter to a cream; add the sugar and beat again. Beat the eggs all together until light, add them to the but- ter and sugar; add the milk, nutmeg, baking-powder, and flour; mix well. Roll out, cut with a round cutter, and bake in a moderate oven until a light brown. GINGER COOKIES (Miss Shourds) i cup of molasses i cup of strong boiling coffee i tablespooiifiil of ginger i cup of brown sugar y2 cup of lard y2 cup of butter 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon i teaspoonful of baking-soda Mix the butter and lard together. Dissolve the soda in ;.. tablespoon ful of boiling water, then stir it into the molas- ses, which add to the butter and lard; add the spices, and mix all well together. Pour over the boiling coffee, and add sufficient flour to make a soft dough. Then roll out about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, cut with a round cutter, and bake in a moderately quick oven about fifteen minutes. 498 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK JUMBLES No. x y 2 pound of butter J^ pound of powdered sugar 9 ounces of flour « tablespoonfuls of sherry i teaspoonful of vanilla 3 eggs Beat the butter to a cream; add the sugar gradually, beat- ing until very light. Now beat the eggs all together, add to the butter and sugar, add the sherry, the vanilla, and last, the flour, sifted. Beat the whole well. Put the mixture into a pastry-bag, and press it through the tube in small round cakes on the bottom of a baking-pan lightly greased. If you have no pastry-bag, you may drop by spoonfuls. Bake in a moderate oven until the edges are a delicate brown. JUMBLES No. 2 J^ pound of butter y 2 pound of sugar 3 eggs y± pound of flour y2 nutmeg, grated 1 tablespoonful of rose-water Beat the butter and sugar to a cream; add the eggs well- beaten, then the rose-water and nutmeg, then the flour. Dust the baking-board with granulated sugar, instead of flour; roll out the mixture, about an eighth of an inch in thickness, cut with a round cutter; take the centres out with a smaller cutter, thus forming rings. Bake in a moderate oven until a light brown. SAND TARTS 1 pound of granulated sugar y2 pound of butter Yolks of three eggs Whites of two eggs Flour enough to make a stiff paste Beat the butter and sugar-together; add the yolks beaten to a cream, then the whites well beaten; mix all well to- gether, and add the flour. Roll out on a baking-board, cut with a round cutter, and bake in a moderate oven until a light brown. FANCY CAKES 499 LEMON WAFERS y£ pound of butter Juice and rind of two lemons y2 pound of powdered sugar Flour sufficient to make a i nutmeg, grated stiff batter 6 eggs Beat the butter to a cream; add the sugar gradually. Beat the eggs, without separating, until creamy, then add them to the butter and sugar; beat well; then add the juice and rind of the lemon, the nutmeg and the flour. Beat 'all until smooth and light. Heat the wafer tongs over a clear fire, brush them lightly with melted butter, put in tw^ tablespoonfuls of the mixture, close the tongs, turn them over a clear fire until the cake is a light brown. When done, take out carefully, dust with powdered sugar, and roll around a smooth stick, which remove carefully when cold. If you have no tongs, line fiat pans with buttered paper, and drop the mixture in by spoonfuls; spread it out very thin, and bake until a light brown. These may be filled with whipped cream or meringue, or served without either. SHREWSBURY CAKES r pound of butter i pound of sugar 4 eggs y£ pound dried currants i nutmeg, grated i}4 pounds of flour Beat the butter to a cream; add the sugar gradually, then the flour and nutmeg, then the currants, washed and dried. Now moisten with the eggs well beaten. If the flour is very heavy and the mixture very dry, add another egg, knead well, roll the paste out very thin, cut with a round cutter about the si/.e of a saucer, and pinch the cakes with the thumb and finger around the edge. This gives them a scalloped form. Bake in a moderate oven until a nice brown. 500 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK SCOTCH CAKES i pound of flour i pound of sugar Y± pound of butter 3 eggs 1 tablespoon ful of cinnamon Mix the flour and butter, and rub well with the hands, then add the sugar, then the eggs well beaten, then the cinnamon. Mix all well together, roll out into a thin sheet, cut with a large round cutter, and bake in a moderate oven until a light brown. JACKSON SNAPS 1 cup of butter 5 cups of flour 2 cups of sugar 1 cup of water 1 egg Juice and rind of a lemon Beat the butter to a cream, add the sugar gradually; then add the egg and water; beat again, then add the flour; mix well, roll out, cut with a round cutter, and bake in a moderate oven until a light brown. These, like ginger cakes, will keep a long while if shut in a tin box. GINGER SNAPS 2 pounds of flour 1 large tablespoonful of ginger 1 pint of molasses ,J^ pound of brown sugar A dash of cayenne ^ pound of butter or lard Rub the butter or lard thoroughly into the flour, then add the sugar, then the ginger and cayenne; mix well, and moisten with the molasses. Knead and roll out very thin, cut with a small, round cutter, and bake in a moderate oven until a light brown. These are very dry and hard to roll, but, if carefully mixed and handled, are delicious. DOMINOES Make Plain Cup Cake batter, and pour it into greased shallow pans, to the depth of a half-inch. Bake in a FANCY CAKES 501 moderate oven about ten minutes. When done, turn out on a cloth to cool. When cold, with a sharp knife cut the cake in oblong pieces, the shape of a domino, frost the top and sides with white icing, and stand aside to harden. When the frosting is hard, dip a small camel's-hair brush in chocolate icing, and draw lines and make the dots of the domino. CREAM PUFFS yz pint of water 2 ounces of butter 4 ounces of flour 4 eggs Put the water and butter on to boil, and, as soon as it boils, turn in the flour and stir quickly over the fire until it sticks together, forming a ball, which leaves the pan. Stand away to cool. When cool, add one egg at a time, beating all the while. After adding the last egg, beat vigorously for five minutes. Stand in a warm place for a half-hour, stirring occasionally; then drop by tablespoonfuls on but- tered tins, leaving a space of two inches between each puff. Bake in a quick oven about twenty minutes. Try by picking them up. If perfectly light, they are done. As they burn quickly, watch carefully. When cold, make an opening in one side, about the middle of the puff, and fill with the following:— THE FILLING l/z pint of milk 1 tablespoonful of corn-starch 4 eggs 4 tablespoon fuls of sugar 1 teaspoonful of vanilla Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the eggs, without separating, and the sugar together until light, add to them the corn-starch, and stir into the boiling milk. Stir over the fire until rather thick, then add the vanilla, and stand away to cool. 502 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS Prepare the batter the same as for Cream Puffs. Put it into a pastry-bag, and press it out upon well-buttered tins. By pressing the bag firmly, and drawing it very slowly towards you while squeezing, you will make the eclairs of a rope- like shape. They should be about five inches long. Allow two inches space between each Eclair. Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes, or until thoroughly done. If prop- erly baked, the inside will be hollow, with a delicate, tender crust outside. When cold, fill with the same Cream Puff Filling. THE ICING Melt two ounces of chocolate, then add four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and stir until it forms a paste. Dip the bottom of each eclair into the icing, and stand it away to dry. Eclairs may be filled with whipped cream or preserved fruits, and iced with Orange Icing. KISSES Whites of six eggs 12 ounces of powdered sugar i tablespoonful of vanilla-sugar Beat the whites with a wire egg-whip until frothy, then add gradually, the sugar, beating continuously until the whites are stiff enough to cut with a knife. Dip a tablespoon into cold water, fill it with the mixture, and drop it on a sheet of buttered paper. Place the paper on baking-tins, sift quickly and lightly with powdered sugar, blow off all that will not stick, and put immediately into a quick oven. Watch constantly that they do not burn. When firm to the touch, take them from the oven, remove them carefully from the paper, scoop out the soft portion and return the shells to a very slow oven to dry. These may be filled with whipped cream or ice cream, and two put together. FANCY CAKES 503 The dry shells will keep some time and may be filled when ready to use. Or, drop the mixture by small spoonfuls on buttered paper, dust with sugar, blow off all that does not stick, place the paper on baking-sheets, put in a quick oven until a light fawn-color; then place them in a cool oven for two hours to dry. When dry, carefully remove the kisses from the paper, brush the bottom lightly with the white of egg, stick two together, and put away to dry. LADY FINGERS Make Sponge Cake batter, turn it into a pastry-bag with a No. i tube in the end, and squeeze it out the shape of lady fingers. Dredge with powdered sugar, and put in a very moderate oven to bake. They must not spread or swell. If they spread, the oven is too cool; if they swell, the oven is too hot. When done, remove them carefully from the pan, put the two flat sides together, and lay them on a sieve to cool. There are pans indented the shape of lady fingers, which are less troublesome than using the pastry-bag. PLUNKETS 4 eggs Weight of eggs in powdered sugar Weight of eggs in butter Weight of eggs in rice flour i teaspoonful of vanilla, or juice and rind of one lemon Beat the butter to a cream, then add the sugar gradually, beating all the while; then add the yolks of the eggs, beat again, then add the whites beaten to a stiff froth, then, gradually, the rice flour. Add a teaspoonful of vanilla, or the juice and rind of a lemon. Now beat until fine and light, pour into greased small scalloped tins (patty-pans) and bake in a moderate oven about twenty minutes. 504 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK ICINGS or FROSTINGS PLAIN ICING Whites of two eggs i teaspoonful of lemon juice y2 pound of powdered sugar Place the eggs in a refrigerator or some very cold place one hour before using. Break them carefully and beat the whites until frothy, then sift the sugar in gradually, beating all the while; add the lemon juice, and continue the "beat- ing until the icing is fine and white, and stiff enough to stand alone. Keep in a cool place until wanted. Spread with a knife dipped in ice-water. If ornaments are used, they must be placed on the cake while the ice is still moist. This may be varied by adding different flavorings, such as strawberry, pineapple, rose, vanilla, etc. Strawberry icing should always be colored with a few drops of cochineal. CHOCOLATE ICING % pound of grated chocolate % pound of powdered sugar Melt the chocolate over boiling water, add the sugar, and stir until smooth. Add a teaspoonful of vanilla, and it is ready to use. ORANGE ICING J^ pound of powdered sugar i tablespoonful of boiling water Grated rind of one orange Sufficient orange juice to moisten Put the sugar in a bowl, add the rind and then the water and juice. The icing should be very stiff, and used imme- diately. 506 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK CANDIES CHOCOLATE CARAMELS No. I ^ pound of chocolate i pound of brown sugar 2 tablespoonfuls of molasses Butter the size of an egg y2 cup of milk i teaspoonful of vanilla Put the whole into a granite or copper saucepan; let it heat slowly, and stir until thoroughly dissolved. Then boil until it hardens. Try by dropping a few drops in a cup of cold water; if it hardens quickly, it is done. Turn into a greased square pan, and, when partly cool, mark into squares with a dull knife. Stand in a cool, dry place to harden. CHOCOLATE CARAMELS No. 2 (Mrs. Mustin) \y2 pounds of sugar (confectioners' A) 3 ounces of chocolate Y^ pint of cream y? teaspoonful of lemon-juice Make and finish the same as in preceding recipe. TAFFY y2 pint of water ^ teaspoonful of lemon-juice 3 ounces of butter 2 teaspoonfuls of vanilla 1y 2 pounds of sugar (confectioners' A) Stir the water and sugar over the fire until the sugar is dis- solved, then boil until it arrives at the ball stage; that is, (509) 510 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK when small quantity is cooled in water and rolled between the thumb and finger, it forms a soft ball. Now add the butter and lemon juice and boil to the "crack," that is, it hardens quickly when dropped into cold water, and will not stick to the teeth. Add the vanilla, and turn out in greased shallow pans to cool. MOLASSES CANDY i cup of New Orleans molasses i cup of brown sugar i tablespoonful of vinegar i ounce of melted butter Mix all together, and boil without stirring until it hardens when dropped in cold water; then add a teaspoonful of baking soda, and pour into buttered tins. Or, when cool, pull and cut into sticks. While pull- ing, brush the hands with butter or moisten them with ice- water. WALNUT MOLASSES CANDY Make a plain molasses candy, and, when done, grease deep square pans with butter, fill nearly full with walnut kernels, pour the molasses candy over them, and stand away to cool. PEANUT MOLASSES CANDY Peanut Molasses Candy is made precisely the same as Wal- nut Molasses Candy. CREAM CANDY i pound of granulated sugar i tablespoonful of gum-arabic water y2 teaspoonful of cream of tartar i cup of water i teaspoonful of vanilla Mix all the ingredients except the vanilla, and stir over the fire until the sugar is dissolved; then boil without stirring until it hardens when dropped in cold water. It must not be brjttle. When done, turn out on a greased plate or CANDIES 511 marble slab; pour over it the vanilla; when nearly cold, begin to pull, and pull continuously until it is perfectly white. Cut it into sticks or pieces as soon as you are done pulling, or it may be braided; then put it in a tureen, cover and let stand two hours, and it is ready to use. ROSE CREAM CANDY Make same as preceding recipe, add a half-teaspoonful of cochineal, and a teaspoonful of rose water instead of the vanilla. CREAM CHOCOLATES Put the white of one egg and an equal quantity of cold water into a bowl; add a teaspoonful of vanilla, and beat until frothy; add sufficient confectioners' xxx sugar to make a stiff paste that you can form into balls (this will take about a pound and a quarter). Work until smooth, form into small balls the size of a cream chocolate, stand on greased paper, and put in a cool, dry place to harden (about two hours). Put a half-pound of chocolate into a small, bright, tin basin, and stand it over the tea- kettle or boiling water to melt, then stand it in a basin of boiling water to prevent its cooling while you dip the creams. Place one ball on the end of a fork, dip it down into the melted chocolate, see that it is thoroughly covered, lift it up, drain, scrape off the fork on the side of the basin, then slide the cream chocolate back on the greased paper, and so continue until all are clipped. Stand in a cool place over night, another are ready to use. These are very Tfc»k. trouble, and, if made carefully, are delicious. \ CREAM DATES Remove the stones from the large dates, make the cream as directed in preceding recipe. Roll a tiny bit into a long FRUITS Fruit should be served as fresh as possible, the large fruits cold. The small acid fruits are rendered more acid by being chilled. Fresh, ripe fruit is particularly wholesome if taken in the early part of the day. Liebig says: "Besides contributing a large proportion of sugar, mucil- age, and other nutritive compounds in the form of food, they contain such a fine combination of vegetable acids, attractive substances, and aromatic principles, with the nutritive matter, as to act powerfully in the capacity of refrigerants, tonics, and antiseptics, and when freely used at the season of ripeness, by rural laborers and others, they prevent debility, strengthen digestion, correct the putrefac- tive tendency of nitrogenous food, avert scurvy, and prob- ably maintain and strengthen the power of productive labor." APPLES For the table, select those of a spicy flavor; wipe them clean and polish with a soft towel. Serve in a fruit dish or a small, pretty basket. Use only a silver knife in cutting. BANANAS Bananas should be served whole, the large, red and lady fingers mixed. (S13) FRUITS 515 use a knife to cut the pineapple as it destroys the flavor. Sprinkle with powdered sugar. Stand in a cold place one hour before serving. POMEGRANATES Remove the outside skin and carefully take out the seeds, rejecting every particle of the thin brown skin that separates the sections. Heap the seeds on a pretty dish, mix with them finely-chopped ice, and serve. STRAWBERRIES, RASPBERRIES and BLACKBERRIES Pick them carefully, without mashing, only a few moments before you wish to serve them. Heap them in a glass dish, and send around powdered sugar and cream with them. Allow each guest to sugar his own. Never wash any kind of berries, as it destroys their flavor. Strawberries for breakfast may be served with their stems on, the same as Currants. WATERMELON A watermelon should be thoroughly chilled before serving; then cut it into halves. Cut a thin slice off each end to make it stand firmly on the platter. Scoop out in egg- shaped pieces with a tablespoon, and serve. CANTALOUPE Cut in halves, remove the seeds. Serve one-half to each guest. Eat with a spoon. Cantaloupes should be served very cold. BAKED APPLES Wipe sweet apples perfectly clean, and remove the cores without paring, stand them on an earthen baking-dish, and' 516 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK bake in a moderate oven until tender. Serve cold with sugar and cream. Or, pour over them drawn butter, flavored and sweet- ened. STEWED APPLES Pare tart apples, cut them into quarters and remove the cores; put them into a porcelain-lined kettle, strew with sugar, add the juice of half a lemon and a few bits of the yellow rind; cover with boiling water, and simmer gently until tender. Dish carefully without breaking, and serve cold. CODDLED APPLES Pare tart apples of uniform size; remove the cores without breaking the apples. Stand them in the bottom of a por- celain-lined kettle, strew thickly with sugar, cover the bot- tom of the kettle with boiling water, put on the lid, and allow the apples to steam on the back part of the stove until tender. Dish carefully without breaking; pour the syrup over them, and stand away to cool. BLACKBERRY FLUMMERY i cup of blackberries 2 even tablespoonfuls of 1 pint of water corn-starch Sugar to taste Put the blackberries and water on to boil. Boil slowly ten minutes without stirring. Moisten the corn-starch in a little cold water, stir it into the boiling blackberries, stir carefully until it thickens, take from the fire, add the sugar, and turn out to cool. Serve cold, with sugar and cream. BLACKBERRY MUSH Make the same as Flummery, using three tablespoonfuls of corn-starch instead of two. FRUITS 517 STEWED CRANBERRIES Wash one quart of cranberries, put them in a porcelain- lined kettle, add one pint of water, cover the kettle, and stew ten minutes; add one pound of sugar, and stand on the back part of the stove where it will not boil, for fifteen minutes, then turn out to cool. STEWED GOOSEBERRIES Stem and top one quart of berries, and cook the same as Cranberries. BAKED PEARS For this choose large sweet pears. Wipe them, but do not remove the stems. Stand them in an earthen baking-dish, pour around them a cup of boiling water, add two table- spoonfuls of sugar, cover with another dish, and bake slowly until the pears are tender, basting three or four times with the liquor. When done, stand away to cool in the dish in which they were baked. When cold, lift them carefully into a pretty glass dish, pour the liquor over them, and serve with sugar and cream. STEWED PEARS Pears may be stewed precisely the same as Apples. STEWED PRUNES Wash the prunes through several cold waters, cover them with fresh cold water, and soak over night. Next day, turn them with the water into a porcelain-lined kettle, sweeten to taste, and let them simmer very gently until tender. When done, remove them carefully with a skim- mer, and boil the syrup rapidly for ten minutes; then pour it over the prunes, and stand away to cool. Dried peaches may be stewed in the same way. 520 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK satisfactory to return them to the jars. All large fruitsshould be thrown into cold water as soon as pared, to prevent dis- coloration, then boiled in clear water, in which has been dissolved a quarter-teaspoonful of powdered alum to every quart of water, until tender, then drained and boiled a few moments in the syrup. Cook only enough to fill one or two jars at a time; have the jars hot and everything ready as soon as the fruit is done. Fill the jars quickly, run a silver spoon handle around the inside of the jar to break any air bubbles that may be there, and then screw on the tops without delay. Small fruits are best sugared one or two hours be- fore cooking, and then if you add the same proportion of alum, they will be clear and keep their shape. They should just be brought to boiling point, skimmed, and sealed immediately. The surplus juice that exudes from strawberries and plums may be strained and boiled for jelly. By following these directions religiously, and using the quantities given in the recipes that follow, success is sure. APPLES I pound of sugar The grated yellow rind of 4 pounds of apples one lemon i quart of water Pare the apples, throw them into cold water. When you have enough to fill one or two jars, take them from the water, put them in a porcelain-lined kettle, cover with boiling water, stand them on the back part of the fire, where they will scarcely bubble, until tender. While they are cooking, put the sugar and water in another kettle, stir the sugar until it is dissolved, add the lemon rind, and boil three minutes. When the apples are sufficiently tender to CANNING AND PRESERVING 523 Put the fruits into tumblers or very small jars, and thereby prevent disturbing a larger quantity than is needed. PRESERVED CITRON Pare off the outer skin, cut into halves, remove the seeds, then divide each half into a number of smaller pieces. Put them in a stone jar, add a half-cup of salt to every five pounds of citron. Cover with cold water, and stand aside for five hours; then drain, and cover with fresh, cold water. Soak two hours, changing the water three or four times. Dissolve a teaspoonful of powdered alum in two quarts of boiling water, add the citron, and bring to boil- ing point. Drain. Make a syrup from two and a half pounds of granulated sugar and one and a half quarts of boiling water, boil and skim. When perfectly clear, put in the citron and simmer gently until you can pierce it with a straw. When tender, lift the pieces carefully with a skim- mer, place them on a large plate, and stand in the sun one or two hours to harden. Peel the yellow rind from one large lemon, add it to the syrup, then add the juice of two lemons, and a small piece of green ginger-root cut in thin slices. Boil gently for ten minutes, and stand aside until wanted. When the citron has hardened, put it cold into the jars, bring the syrup again to a boil, and strain it over the citron. Watermelon rind and pumpkin may be preserved in the same manner. MARMALADES or JAMS BLACKBERRY JAM Put the blackberries into a porcelain-lined kettle, stand them over a very moderate fire until thoroughly heated, then press them through a sieve. Measure the liquid, and CANNING AND PRESERVING 525 ally for fifteen minutes, then stand over a more moderate fire, and cook slowly twenty minutes longer. Stir occa- sionally, that it may not scorch. Put away in stone jars. Plum Marmalade and Quince Marmalade may be made in the same manner. BRANDY PEACHES Take large white or yellow freestone peaches. (They must not be too ripe.) Scald them with boiling water; cover, and let stand until the water becomes cold. Repeat this scalding, then take them out, lay them on a soft cloth, cover them over with another cloth, and let them remain until perfectly dry. Now put them in stone jars, and cover with brandy. Tie paper over the tops of the jars, and let them remain in this way one week. Then make a syrup, allow- ing one pound of granulated sugar and a half-pint of water to each pound of peaches. Boil, and skim the syrup, then put in the peaches, and simmer until tender; then take the peaches out, drain, and put them in glass jars. Stand the syrup aside to cool. When cold, mix equal quantities of this syrup and the brandy in which you had the peaches. Pour this over the peaches, and seal. PICKLING SWEET PICKLES Sweet pickles should be rich, and sufficiently cooked lo keep without being hermetically sealed. SPICED PEACHES 7 pounds of peaches i teaspoonful of ground cloves 4 pounds of sugar 2 teaspoonfuls of allspice 1 pint of vinegar 2 teaspoonfuls of cinnamon ounce of ginger root teaspoonful of ground mace Pare the peaches, but do not remove the stones. Put the vinegar and sugar on to boil. Mix the spices, and divide them into four parts. Put each part into a small square of muslin, tie tightly, and then throw them into the sugar and vinegar. When this mixture is hot, add the peaches; bring all to boiling point, take from the fire, and turn carefully into a stone jar. Stand in a cool.place over night. Next day, drain all the liquor from the peaches into a porcelain-lined kettle, stand it over a moderate fire, and, when boiling hot, pour it back in the jar over the peaches. Next day, drain and heat again as before, and do this for nine consecutive days; the last time boil the liquor down until there is just enough to cover the fruit. Add the fruit to it, bring the whole to a boil, and put in jars or tumblers for keeping. (5*«) PICKLING 527 The following fruits may be pickled or spiced in the same manner: Cantaloupe Pears Quinces Cherries Plums Watermelon rind SOUR PICKLES For these, use none but the best cider vinegar. Do not boil it, as in this way it is weakened; bring it only to scalding-point before pouring it over the pickles. A tiny piece of alum scalded with cucumber or gherkin pickles makes them crisp. Always prepare pickles in porcelain-lined or granite kettles; use wooden spoons, never metal. Spice carefully, so that one flavor will not predominate, but will all com- bine to make a pleasant whole. Cucumbers and other pickles are often so strongly flavored with onion, spices, etc., that the original flavor is entirely lost. Pickles should be kept in a dark dry place in stone or glass jars. Nasturtiums or a small piece of horse-radish thrown in each jar prevents the vinegar from moulding. If you wish your cucumbers green, put them into cold vinegar in a porcelain-lined kettle, stand them over a mod- erate fire, and heat slowly until they become green. As pickles of all kinds are indigestible, eat sparingly and masticate thoroughly. MIXED PICKLES y£ medium-sized head of 6 large green tomatoes cabbage i large or two small Spanish 4 large roots of celery onions 4 tablespoonfuls of grated 2 cucumbers horse-radish i red and one green pepper Chop all the vegetables, and mix them together. Put a PICKLES 529 Pare the cucumbers and onions, and slice them in thin slices. Put a layer of cucumbers, then a layer of onions, then a heavy sprinkling of salt, then another layer of cucumbers, and so continue these alternations. On top, place a heavy weight to press them down; let stand over night, or at least six hours. Then drain ofT the liquor. Put a tablespoonful of powdered alum in sufficient cold vinegar to cover the pickles, stir until the alum is dissolved, pour this over the cucumbers and onions, and stand aside for four or five hours. Then drain. (This vinegar may be saved to use for other purposes.) Put the cucumbers and onions into glass or stone jars. Mix the mustard, pepper and celery seed with the oil, then add gradually the two quarts of vinegar, and pour over the cucumbers and onions. Fasten the jars, and in two weeks the pickles will be ready to use. BORDEAUX SAUCE (Mrs. Henry Addis) i gallon of chopped green i ounce of cloves tomatoes i ounce of turmeric 2 gallons of chopped cabbage i ounce of ginger r ounce of black pepper i ounce of celery seed Y^ pound of brown sugar y£ pound of mustard seed i gill of salt i gallon of vinegar Mix the cloves, ginger, turmeric, pepper, celery seed, mus- tard seed, sugar and salt together, then add the vinegar; pour this over the cabbage and tomatoes, turn into a porce- lain-lined kettle, and simmer gently twenty minutes. Put away in glass or stone jars. GREEN TOMATO PICKLES i peck of green tomatoes, y( pound of ground mustard sliced i dozen onions, sliced i^ ounces of black pepper i ounce of whole cloves i ounce of whole allspice i ounce of mustard seed Put a layer of tomatoes, then a layer of onions, then a sprinkling of salt, then another layer of tomatoes, and so 630 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK on; let stand over night. Next morning, drain off all the liquor, put them in a porcelain-lined kettle with all the other ingredients, cover with vinegar, and simmer gently fifteen minutes. Put away in stone or glass jars. PICKLED ONIONS Pour boiling brine over the small button onions, let them stand twenty-four hours, then drain, and cover with hot vinegar spiced to taste. SMALL CUCUMBER PICKLES Wash and wipe one hundred small cucumbers and place them in jars. Cover them with boiling brine, strong enough to bear an egg; let stand twenty-four hours. Then take them out, wipe, place in clean jars, and cover with hot vinegar, spiced with an onion, twelve whole cloves, one ounce of mustard seed, and three blades of mace. They will be ready to use in two weeks. LEMON PICKLE For this choose small fruit with thick rind. Rub them with a piece of flannel; then slit them down the quarters, but not quite through the pulp, fill these slits with salt and press it in. Stand them upright in an earthen dish for four days until the salt melts. Then turn them three days in this liquor. Drain, and add to the liquor sufficient cider vinegar to cover them, add one Jamaica pepper, and one small piece of green ginger-root cut into small pieces. Bring to boiling-point and skim, then stand aside to cool. When cold, pour it over the lemons, and put away in glass jars. PICKLED WALNUTS The walnuts should be gathered when very young and soft, soft enough to be easily pierced with a pin. They should be gathered in the middle of the day, when the sun is hot PICKLES 531 upon them. Rub them with a coarse flannel. Then make a brine from salt and water, strong enough to bear an egg, and let them lie in it nine days, changing the brine every other day. At the end of this time, take them out, spread them on large dishes and expose them to the atmosphere for about thirty minutes. Then pour over them boiling water, then take them out one at a time, rub them with a piece of coarse flannel, and pierce them with a large needle in several places. Now place them in glass jars. To every hundred walnuts allow one gallon of vinegar, one ounce of cloves, one ounce of allspice, one ounce of black pepper, a half-ounce of mace, and a half-ounce of nutmeg. Put the spices in the vinegar, and scald in a porcelain kettle for fifteen minutes. Then strain the vinegar, and pour it, boiling hot, over the walnuts; add a large tablespoonful of grated horse-radish, and a cupful of mustard-seed. Cover closely and stand in a cool place. MANGOES. Cut the tops from one dozen red and one dozen green peppers. Remove the seeds and save the tops. Stand the peppers upright in a tub; put a teaspoonful of salt in each one, cover with cold water and soak twenty-four hours. Drain. Cut two large heads of cabbage on a cabbage cutter, add to this one teaspoonful of ground cloves, one teaspoonful of ground allspice, four tablespoonfuls of whole mustard and two tablespoonfuls of salt; mix thoroughly. Stuff the peppers with this mixture. Put on the tops and tie tightly. Stand them upright in stone jars, and cover with cold vinegar. Mangoes are also made from peaches and small melons. CATSUPS CUCUMBER CATSUP For this, choose large, ripe cucumbers. Pare, remove the seeds, and grate. To every pint of this pulp allow: y pint of cider vinegar ^ teaspoonful of cayenne i teaspoonful of salt 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of grated horse-radish Drain the grated cucumber in a colander, then mix with all the other ingredients. Bottle and seal. MUSHROOM CATSUP Take freshly gathered mushrooms and examine them care- fully to see that they are all right. Wipe them, but do not wash. Put a layer of the mushrooms in the bottom of an earthen dish, then sprinkle well with salt, then another layer of mushrooms, another of salt, and so on alternately; cover with a folded towel, and stand in a very warm place for twenty-four hours; then mash and strain through a coarse bag. To every quart of this liquor add one ounce of pepper-corns, and boil slowly in a porcelain-lined kettle for thirty minutes; then add a quarter-ounce of whole allspice, a half-ounce of sliced ginger-root, one dozen whole cloves, and three blades of mace. Boil fifteen minutes (53') CATSUPS • 533 longer. Take from the fire and stand aside to cool. When cold, strain through flannel, and put into small bottles, filling to the very top. Cork tightly and dip in sealing- TOMATO CATSUP No. i (Prof. Rachel Bodley) Cut ripe tomatoes into thin slices; then put into a stone jar a layer of tomatoes and a layer of salt, and stand aside for three days. Then press through a sieve, add vinegar and spice to taste, bottle and seal. TOMATO CATSUP No. a i bushel of ripe tomatoes 2 ounces of mustard J4 gallon of vinegar 1 ounce of ginger y2 pound of sugar y 2 ounce of cloves y2 pint of salt jHs ounce of cayenne 1 y2 ounces of black pepper y ounce of powdered 1 y2 ounces of allspice assafetida 1 pint of alcohol Put the tomatoes on to boil, boil gently a half-hour, then press them through a sieve to remove the seeds and skins. Return this liquid to the kettle (which should be porcelain- lined), and boil down to one and a half gallons; then add the vinegar and evaporate to one and three-quarter gallons; then add the sugar, salt and spices; stir until thoroughly mixed. Put the assafetida into a teacup, add to it two tablespoonfuls of the catsup, stir until thoroughly mixed, then turn it into the kettle, stir continually until the catsup comes to a boil, then take it from the fire and add the alcohol. Bottle and seal while hot. This recipe ha* been in constant use in my own family for years, and is pronounced, by those who have used it— perfect. PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK DRINKS COFFEE The coffee tree is a native of southern Arabia and Abys- sinia, and is cultivated in various parts of the world where the temperature is sufficiently high and uniform. The seeds are inclosed in the fruit, which is a roundish berry, umbilicate at top, at first green, then red, and then a dark purple—resembling our common morello cherry; each contains two seeds surrounded by a paperish membrane and inclosed in a yellowish, pulpy matter. These berries are allowed to ferment, then they are crushed under heavy roll- ers, separated, the seeds divested of their coverings, and dried. These seeds constitute our coffee. The character of coffee varies considerably with the climate and mode of culture. The Mocha coffee, which is known by its small, roundish grains, agreeable odor and flavor, takes the pre- cedence of all others. The Java, a large, flat grain, is highly esteemed in this country. The Brazilian coffees are between the two in size and inferior to both in flavor. Coffee improves by age. It ripens in the mat, losing a portion of its strength, and thus acquires a more agreeable flavor. If you buy your coffee roasted, do so in small quantities. Keep it closely corked and grind just before using; the finer it is ground, the better. The peculiar (53S» 640 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK odor and flavor of roasted coffee are due to the caffeic acid, the aromatic oil, and, doubtless, also, to the sugar, which is changed to caramel. An infusion made at a low tempera- ture (not exceeding 2000 Fahr.) is much better than a decoction made by boiling. The darker the coffee is roasted, the more injurious the effects. If coffee be boiled, there is extracted a poisonous oil, and the delicate aroma and flavor of the true coffee escape in the steam; and, if you wish to enjoy them, repair at once to the top of the house, and you will find them there. To my mind, there is but one true and healthful way of making coffee, and that is by percolation—an infusion, not a decoction, being made. TO MAKE COFFEE The most important point in making good coffee is to use the water at the first boil; after it boils a few minutes it parts with its gases, and becomes flat and hard, and will not make a perfect infusion if you use the finest berries that Mocha ever exported. Consequently, wash the tea- kettle perfectly clean every morning, fill it with fresh cold water, and bring it quickly to boiling-point. Have the coffee in the pot, allowing one heaping tablespoonful of finely ground coffee to each cup, pour over it the water; as soon as it drains through the biggin, fill the top again, and so on until you have the desired quantity. Serve im- mediately in the same pot, if possible, I have always pro- duced the best coffee from a mixture of two-thirds Java and one-third Mocha, and prefer the old-fashioned biggin to any other pot. For those who do, and always will boil their coffee, 1 hesitatingly insert the following recipe:— 542 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK pint), cover the pot, and stand on the back part of the stove five minutes to draw; then add the remainder of the boiling water, and serve at once. Never use a metal teapot. Russian tea is made by putting a slice of lemon in the bottom of each cup, and pouring over it the boiling tea. COCOA Cocoa, or chocolate nuts, are the seeds of TTicobroma Cacao, a handsome tree from fifteen to twenty feet in height, growing in Mexico, the West Indies, and South America. These seeds, or cacao beans, are roasted the same as coffee until the aroma is brought out. They are then pounded to a paste in a hot mortar, or ground between rollers. The preparation thus produced, when mixed with sugar, starch, cinnamon, and vanilla, forms, the chocolate of commerce. Cocoa is the bean ground fine, the oil partly extracted, and the remaining powder mixed with a small quantity of sugar. Cocoa Nibs is the bean deprived of its husks, and then broken into small rough pieces. This is the purest and best cocoa in our markets. The shells or husks are also used to make a weak decoc- tion for persons with delicate stomachs. CHOCOLATE Put four ounces of chocolate into a farina boiler, stand it over the fire to melt. When melted, add one quart of new milk slightly warmed, and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Cover the farina boiler and boil five minutes, then, with a whip-churn or an egg-beater, beat the chocolate until smooth and creamy. Serve with whipped cream. DRINKS 543 COCOA Put one quart of milk to boil in a farina boiler. Moisten four tablespoontuls of cocoa with a little cold milk, pour it into the boiling milk, stirring all the while. Stir until it comes to boiling-point, cover the farina boiler, and boil five minutes. Serve with whipped cream. Broma, alkathrepta, and racahout are all made pre- cisely the same as Cocoa. COCOA FROM THE NIBS Put a half-cup of the broken cocoa into a farina boiler with two quarts of boiling water. Boil two hours, or until reduced to one quart, then add one pint of boiling cream, and serve. RACAHOUT POWDER i pound of rice flour i pound of cocoa i pound of confectioners' 2 ounces of arrowroot xxx sugar 2 ounces of sugar of milk 1 ounce of powdered salep 1 vanilla bean Mix and thoroughly rub together, put into glass jars, and fasten. RASPBERRY VINEGAR Put two quarts of raspberries into a stone jar, and pour over them one quart of good cider vinegar. Cover and stand aside for two days, then drain off the liquid without mashing the terries, pour it over a quart of fresh fruit, and stand as before. Do this once more, the last time strain- ing through a muslin bag. Now add one pound of sugar to every pint of this liquid. Boil slowly five minutes, skim, let stand fifteen minutes, bottle, and seal. Strawberry and blackberry vinegars are made in pre- cisely the same manner. IN THE KITCHEN AND PANTRY It is impossible to give any directions, except in a genera) way, regarding the kitchen and pantry. Both should be light, airy, and well furnished with convenient and labor- saving utensils. A wide, roomy dresser is most convenient. It should have at least two closets above, and two below, with two deep drawers at the top of the lower closets. In the upper closets should be kept all the dishes necessary for cooking, the pudding moulds, tins, etc. In the lower closet, pots, kettles, saucepans, waffle irons, and broilers, all arranged and grouped so that those in frequent use can be quickly gotten out. In the drawers should be kept cooking knives and forks, larding and trussing needles, wooden spoons and forks; also jelly-bags, dish towels, linen soup- strainers, fish cloths, and a large piece of cheese-cloth that may be torn in convenient pieces as wanted; a roll of tape and a ball of linen twine for trussing. Over the kitchen door there should be a ventilator. Two or three wall- pockets are convenient for holding papers, etc. Keep all scouring apparatus, chamois skins, etc., in the tabic drawers. By the side of the range there should be a bracket large enough to hold a dredging-box with flour, one with salt, another with pepper, and still another with sugar. Keep tureens, large meat plates and bowls on the body of the dresser. A corner closet in the pantry should hold all the sugar and spice boxes, all sauces in constant use, tea, coffee, and (544) KITCHEN AND PANTRY 545 small dry groceries. Immediately under the window in the pantry there should be a stationary pastry table with marble top, and grooves underneath holding a hard-wood bread board, which can be pulled out and placed on top the marble when wanted for bread or biscuits. A small refrigerator should also be kept in the' pantry to hold the little things that need to be kept cool while a meal is in preparation. By the side of the pastry table have two or three deep shelves to hold the bread and pies as you finish them. The pantry should open both into the kitchen and the dining-room, and should be as convenient to the range as circumstances will allow. It should have an abundance of shelves, closets, and drawers. Glass jars are convenient and jest for most dry gro- ceries, such as rice, tapioca, oatmeal, etc. If you have a large refrigerator, place it in the base- ment or cellar where it can be filled with ice from a window or opening made for the purpose. A drain-pipe should also be attached to carry the water away. This saves much time and labor. A refrigerator should be examined daily, and kept scrupulously clean. Fish, onions, cucumbers, or any strong vegetables should not be kept in a refrigerator with milk or butter unless the refrigerator has an automatic circulation of pure, dry air. If your refrigerator is lined with metal, "things" will taste, one of the other. The inexperienced housekeeper will, we believe, be glad of some guidance in selecting the proper utensils needed in a well-furnished kitchen. There are a number of utensils which are not in general use which lessen the labor of cooking, and add much to the attractiveness of the food, as well as to the comfort of the cook. It certainly is unfair to expect a cook to prepare a well-appointed meal without allowing her the needful implements. The follow- ing list will be found to contain all the utensils needed in a well-furnished kitchen:— TIN WARE I apple corer I small funnel I asparagus boiler 3 ice-cream moulds I two quart covered pail i heavy wire broiler for steaks GATHERED CRUMBS LEMON BUTTER i pound of powdered sugar Yolks of six eggs Whites of four eggs Rind of one and juice ot y£ pound of butter two lemons Beat the yolks of the eggs, sugar, and butter together until very light; then add to them the whites, well beaten. Pour this into a farina boiler, and stir constantly over the fire until it thickens; then add the juice and rind of the lemons, and turn into an earthen vessel to cool. FRENCH HONEY Beat together a half-cup of sugar and a half-cup of butter until very light; then add one egg and beat again, add the juice and rind of one lemon, and stir the whole over the fire until it thickens and comes to a boil. Turn out to cool. NEVADA MOUNTAIN HONEY Boil two pounds of white sugar, a half-pint of water, and a half-teaspoonful of vanilla sugar together for three minutes, after it begins to boil. Do not stir after the sugar is dissolved. Add three drops of oil of rose and three drops of oil of peppermint to one gill of alcohol; shake it well, and add a half-teaspoonful of it to the boiling syrup. Turn out to cool. This, if carefully made, is a most perfect imitation of strained honey. (549) GATHERED CRUMBS 551 oil from them. Put this oil back into the jar and fill again with fresh flowers, and repeat the operation according to the strength of the perfume desired. The oil being thus thoroughly perfumed with the volatile principle of the flowers is to be mixed with an equal quantity of pure recti- fied spirits, and shaken every day for two weeks, when it may be poured off ready for use. TO STOP BLEEDING If the blood comes from a wound in jets or spirts be quick or the person may bleed to death in a few minutes, because the artery is severed. Tie a handkerchief loosely around near the part between the wound and the heart. Put a stick between the handkerchief and the skin, and twist it around, tightening the handkerchief until the blood ceases to flow, and keep in that position until the physician arrives. If in a position where the handkerchief cannot be used press the thumb on a spot near the wound, between the wound and heart; increase the pressure until the bleeding ceases, but do not lessen the pressure for an instant, until the physician arrives. TO RESUSCITATE THE DROWNED As soon as the body is removed from the water, press the chest suddenly and forcible downward and backward and instantly discontinue the pressure. Repeat this without in- termission until a pair of bellows can be procured. When obtained, introduce the nozzle well upon the tongue, sur- round the mouth with a handkerchief or towel and close it. Direct a bystander to press firmly on the projecting part of the throat, called Adam's apple, and use the bellows gently and regularly, and each time the lungs are inflated with the bellows press upon the chest to expel the air from the lungs to imitate natural breathing. Continue this an hour at least, until signs of natural breathing come on. Wrap the body in warm blankets, and place it near the fire, and do everything to preserve the natural warmth as well as to im- part artificial heat if possible. Avoid all friction until respiration is in some degree established. It is best to send for medical aid immediately. 552 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK ANTIDOTES FOR POISONS If any poison is swallowed, drink immediately a half-glass of tepid water with a heaping teaspoonful each of conimon salt and ground mustard. This vomits as soon as it reaches the stomach, but for fear that some of the poison may still remain, swallow the white of one or two eggs, or drink a cup of strong black coffee—these two being antidotes for a greater number of poisons than any other dozen articles known, with the advantage of their always being at hand. For oil of vitriol or aquafortis, give large doses of magnesia and water. For ammonia, give vinegar freely. For oxalic acid, give magnesia or chalk and water, administered in large and frequently-repeated doses. For saltpetre, give an. emetic of mustard and water, afterwards mucilage and small doses of laudanum. For opium or laudanum, give an emetic of mustard and water; use constant motion, and, if possible, a stomach pump; also, strong, black coffee. For arsenic, doses of magnesia are useful, but freshly-prepared hydrated oxide of iron is best. For insects taken into the stomach, give small quantities of vinegar and salt. For corrosive sublimate, give the whites of eggs mixed with water until free vomiting takes place. FOR BURNS Lime water and sweet oil well mixed in equal quantities is one of the very best remedies for a burn. Lime and lard, well mixed, are also good. TO REMOVE IRON MOULD FROM LINEN Rub the iron mould over with sulphuret of potash, then bathe it well in citric acid (lemon juice) and afterwards wash it well in water. TO REMOVE INK STAINS FROM LINEN Bathe the stains freely with lemon juice, sprinkle thickly with fine salt, and place in the sun a few hours. GATHERED CRUMBS 553 TO TAKE OUT MILDEW Wet the article and rub on it equal parts of soap and chalk mixed together, then place in the sun until the spots dis- appear. STARCH FOR DARK CALICOES Make starch as usual, and add to it one pint of perfectly clear coffee. Strain and add a tiny piece of spermaceti. The color may be set in doubtful calicoes by dipping them in a strong solution of salt and water before washing. TO MEND CHINA Take a very thick solution of gum arabic and water, and stir into it plaster of paris until the mixture becomes a viscous paste. Apply it with a brush to the fractured edges and stick them together. In three days the article cannot be broken in the same place. The whiteness of this cement renders it doubly valuable. TO KEEP LEMONS Cover with cold water, changing it every week. This makes them ripe and juicy. MISCELLANEOUS Cranberries will keep all winter in a keg of water. Clean brass kettles before using with salt and vine- gar, to avoid being poisoned by the verdigris. A few drops of oil of lavender here and there through a bookcase will save a library from mould. To cleanse articles made of white zephyr, rub in flour and magnesia, changing often. Shake off the flour and hang the article in the sun. Spots in calico or cloth produced by an acid may be restored by touching the spots with spirits of hartshorn. Spots produced by an alkali may be removed by moisten- ing them with vinegar or tartaric acid. To clean velvet and make it look like new, invert a hot flat-iron, put over it a thickness of wet muslin, lay on this the velvet, wrong side next to the muslin, and brush the velvet gently as it steams, drawing it over the iron. HOW TO LARD Larding pork should be salt, solid, and clear fat without any streaks of lean. Cut into thin even slices, and cut these slices into long narrow strips, that will fit the larding- needle you intend to use. For Beef a la Mode the lardoons should be about the size of a lead-pencil. For veal, turkey, chicken, birds or sweetbreads, they should be about half that size. About one inch from the rind of the pork you will notice a decided mark or streak; below this and near- est the rind, is the muscular part of the pork, and the only part that can be used for larding. Above this the pork is so tender that it will break when you put it in the needle. After you cut these strips (lardoons they are now called), put them into a bowl of very cold water to harden. Place one lardoon into the slot end of the larding-needle as far as it will go, thrust the needle into the meat, taking a stitch about one inch deep, push the needle through, place the fin- ger lightly on the strip of pork, and draw the needle out, leaving the pork exposed about a quarter-inch at each end of the stitch, and so continue until you have finished. TO LARD WITH TRUFFLES Cut the truffles into tiny blocks, insert the truffle-needle (.1 hollow needle with a sharp point and a wire rod to push the truffle through) under the skin, and just a little into the flesh. Now put a block of the truffle into the large end of the needle and push it through into the meat with the wire rod, and so continue until you have finished. (554) SUITABLE COMBINATIONS OF FOOD Man has not only to complete and repair the structure which constitutes his body, but has also to create heat in more or less abundance according to the climate in which he lives; consequently to keep the body in a perfectly healthy condition, he must employ a wise combination of food. In perfect health he requires no rules. Nature teaches him how to live. But deviations from the laws of nature, blunt his instincts so that he can hardly tell what nature is, and tempt him, not only to take greater quanti- ties of food than his economy requires, but also of a more stimulating nature. Idleness, want of mental occupation, and self-indulgence often lead to over-feeding, and the im- moderate use of alcoholic stimulants. Food requirements vary with such wide limits in dif- ferent individuals and different occupations that it is almost impossible to lay down a general rule as to the quantity of food required. In some persons the process of digestion is so rapid that frequent meals are required, and if food is not taken when the digestive organs call for it, a sensation of sickening and faintness comes on and the appetite is lost. In prisons or in the army, where all men breathe the same atmosphere and follow the same occupation, it is pos- sible to establish approximately the amount of food re- quired. In Edinburg, where a hundred prisoners were con- fined, experiments were made to ascertain the smallest amount of food required to keep the weight and strength (5«o) SUITABLE COMBINATIONS OF FOOD 561 of man in idleness. Seventeen ounces of food per day for two months was given each man; four ounces were muscle- making or nitrogenous food; the remaining thirteen ounces heat and force-producing or carbonaceous food. During this time eighteen men lost one and a half pounds each, eighty-two held their own or gained weight. The same experiment was tried in Dundee, but there they gave molasses with their oatmeal instead of milk, as was given at Ed in burg. Fifty of their prisoners lost five pounds each, while the remaining fifty held their own or gained weight. By these and other statistics we find that the system requires nearly five times as much carbonaceous as nitrogenous food. A thorough acquaintance with these facts cannot be too highly estimated. Two-thirds of all the intemperance in the land is due to ill and unscientific feeding. When I say ill-fed, I do not mean the poor who have scanty nour- ishment, but also that class who indulge their acquired and unnatural appetites in highly seasoned and over-nitrogenous foods. We must keep steadily before us the principle that it is not the quantity of food received which nourishes the body, but the proportion that can be digested of such food, all else is worse than waste, whose presence clogs and throws out of order the delicate digestive organs. A man may eat till he can take no more and still have an unsatisfied feeling. His food has not been properly proportioned. Each organ requires different elements, and each has the power of taking up from the mass such as are required by them and rejecting all others. While we take food in the proportions to satisfy each organ, peace and harmony prevail in the system, but let us indulge in over or improper feeding, an excitement is at once produced, and each organ makes an effort to reject its enemy, and the whole system becomes "out of order," and still we cannot read this lesson of nature, teaching us to keep out of our stomachs everything but the proper elements. How few there are who know why we serve potatoes or rice with lean beef, why we put butter on our bread, why it is better to eat sugar and cream on oatmeal and grits, why we eat more fruit and less meat in summer than in winter and vice versa. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT The author takes pleasure in acknowledging her indebted- ness for many valuable points embodied in this work to: Bellows' Philosophy of Eating Bartholow's Materia Medica and Therapeutics Youmans' Household Science. Bennett's Nutrition in Health and Disease Dobell's Diet and Regimen Lady Barker's First Lessons in Principles of Cooking Dr. Getchell's Diet in Disease Mattieu Williams' Chemistry of Cooking Cook books by Dr. Kitchener, Blot,Warne,Francatelli, Gouffe, Soyer, Mrs. Henderson, Miss Parloa, Miss Leslie, Mrs. Lincoln, Mrs. Beeton; to "Margery Daw In the Kitchen," the "Buckeye," "Ice Cream and Cakes," and Buckmaster's Cookery. (5«4) ;x;r, PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Beef, Grenadines of 9 Hamburg Steaks 88 a la Mode 85 a la Mode, Ragout of 92 Olives 89 Pickled 100 Pot Roast 84 Pressed No. 1 95 Pressed No. 2 90 Pressed, Corned 102 Roast 82 Rouleau, en 90 Spiced 94 Steak, Broiled 86 Steak, Panned 88 Steak, Pie 99 Steak, Rolled 88 Steak, smothered in Onions 87 Stew with Dump- lings 95 Stew with Okra 95 Stuffed, Stew of 93 Beef's Heart, Baked 104 Heart, Spiced ]04 Heart, Stewed 103 Heart with Vea.1 Stuffing 105 Kidney, Saute 106 Kidney, Stewed 105 Kidney, Terrapin style 100 Liver, Braised 135 Liver, to Corn for Drying 106 Liver, Corned, To Frizzle 106 Liver, Dried Fri- cassee of 103 Liver, Fried 107 Tongue, Braised 110 Tongue, Fillets of 112 Tongue, Larded and Spiced m Tongue, To Smoke 100 Tongue, Smoked, To Boil 109 Tongue on Toast 112 Beef's Tongue, Turkish Brandy Jelly 4.. style 111 Peaches :.-. Beet Salad 240 Sauce is; Beets, Boiled 268 Braising S! Birds, To Keep Fresh 202 Brass Kettles, To Clean 553 Bird's Nest Pudding, Bread si: Cold 399 Boston Brown 321 Hot 390 Corn 320 Biscuit Glaces No. 1 455 Corn, Adirondack 321 No. 2 155 Corn, Hot 322 Biscuits, Bread »2fi French 31' Egg 340 Graham 321 Maryland 340 Milk 3:: Potato No. 1 324 Milk with Potato Potato No. 2 325 Sponge si: Rye :«7 Norwegian 320 Soda 337 Rye SIC Tea No. 1 323 Salt Rising 31- Tea No. 2 324 Southern Rice 322 Virginia 339 Stirred 31* Blackberries 515 Sweet Potato 31" To Can 521 Water 317 Blackberry Flummery 516 Bread Biscuit s:; Jam 523 Cake 47 '. Jelly 471 Doughnuts 344 Mush 5115 Omelet 2M Pie 379 Sauce 224 Pudding 390 Stuffing 220 Sponge 428 Bread and Butter Pud Vinegar 543 ding M Blackbird Pie 213 Breaded Chops 115 Blanc Mange 412 Breakfast Hominy 3.M Fruit 412 Relish 124 Blanquctte of Chicken ISt Sausage If* Bleeding, To Stop 551 Broccoli 2SS BlueHsh, Fried 44 Broma 543 Bobotee '.IS Brown Betty 433 Boiling and Stewing 92 Fricasse of Chicken 171 Bceuf en Rouleau 90 Sauce No. 1 221 Bologna Sausage 154 Sauce No. 2 221 Bombe Glace 456 Sauce No 3 22' Boned Chicken 188 Brunswick Stew 171 Turkey- 101 Brushes 3* Bordeaux Sauce 529 Brussels Sprouts as Boston Brown Bread 321 Buckwheat 3M Brown Hash us Cakes -.-' Boudins A la Reine ISO Buffalo Steaks _>>' Bouillon 11 Buns 475 Boulettes 291 Burns 553 INDEX 567 Butter Beans 266 Cake, Lady Fingers 503 Fairy or Nun's 43R Layer 492 Maitre D'Hotel 229 Layer, Apricot 492 Making 550 Layer, Chocolate 493 Buttermilk Cake 483 Layer, Peach 494 Griddle Cakes 336 Layer, Raspberry 494 Layer, Strawb'ry 494 Cabbage, Boiled 269 Marble 487 Cold Slaw 241 Molasses No. 1 484 Ked, a la Fla- Molasses No. 2 485 mande 270 Moravian Sugar 475 Stewed 269 Plunked 503 Stuffed 27li Pork 484 Corned Beef Pound 489 nnd 269 Ribbon 495 Cabinet rudding 391 Sand Tarts 498 Cafe Parfait 456 Scotch 500 Cake, Augel Food 488 Short 337 Apees 49G Short, Cream 338 Bread 475 Short, Strawb'ry 413 Buttermilk 483 Shrewsbury 499 Chocolate 4*2 Snaps, Ginger 500 Chocolate Eclairs 502 Snaps, Jackson 500 Cocoauut I^ayer 493 Spice 486 Cocoanut Loaf 487 Sponge 488 Cookies, Ginger 497 Sponge, Cream 496 Cookies, Plain 497 Sunshine 489 Cream Pufls 501 Wafers, Lemon 499 Cup, or 1, 2, 3, 4 489 White Mountain 494 Cup, Plain 486 Calf's Brains i34 Dominoes 509 Foot Jelly 469 Egt^t, without 483 Head Cheese 132 Fruit No. 1 490 Head, Dressed Fruit No. 2 49(1 No. 1 133 Fruit, Coffee 492 No. 2 131 Fruit, Dried 481 Calicoes, Dark, to starch 553 Gingerbread 485 To remove spots in 553 Gingerbread, Soft485 Candies 509 Grafton 482 Candy, Cream 510 Hickory Nut 486 Cream, Rose 511 Hoe 388 Molasses 510 Ice Cream 493 Molasses, Peanut 510 Indian Loaf 483 Molasses, Walnut 510 Jelly 494 Taffy 509 Johnny 339 How to Pull 559 Jumbles No. 1 498 Canned Apples 520 Jumbles No. 2 198 Blackberries 521 Kisses 502 Currants 522 Lady 489 Peaches 521 Canned Pears 521 Pineapples 521 Plums, Blue 522 Plums, Damson 522 Quinces 521 Raspberries 522 Strawberries 522 Cannelon 9i Canning and Preserving 519 Cantaloupe 515 Spiced 527 Caper Sauce 525 Capons 191 Caramel 559 ■ Bavarian Cream 416 Ice Cream 452 Sauce 436 Carp, Stewed 51 Carpets, To Make Bright 550 Carrots, Stewed 271 Casserole of Chicken 185 Catsup, Cucumber 532 Mushroom 532 Tomato No. 1 533 Tomato No. 2 533 Tomato, Cold 534 Walnut 534 Catsups 532 Cauliflower, Boiled 272 auGratln 272 Salad 241 Stewed 272 Cecils 99 Celery au Jus 273 Root 273 Salad 241 Sauce 225 Stewed 273 Cellar, Care of 369 Cereals 351 Champagne Sauce 226 Charlotte, Apple 414 Parisian 415 Russe 414 Cheese 363 Cake 376 Cream, with Noodles 866 Fingers 365 Golden Buck 365 Italian 132 568 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Cheese Omelet Ramakins Souffle Straws 259 186 MS 365 Toasted or Scotch Rare-bit 364 Welsh Rare-bit 361 Cherries, To Can 822 Cream 512 Frozen 463 Spiced 527 Cherry Jelly 472 Pie 376 Pudding 390 Tapioca 430 Water Ice 459 Chestnuts, Boiled 274 Puree of 274 Sauce 226 Stewed 274 Stuffing 169 With Brown Sauce 274 Chicken, To Clean 165 Giblets, To Clean 167 To Select 167 Chicken, a la Bechamel 182 Blanquette of 183 Boiled 169 Boned 188 Boudins a la Reine 180 Braised 170 Broiled 176 Casserole of 185 Cecils 180 Chaud Froid of 182 Chops 176 Croquettes 178 Curry of 175 Cutlets 177 Deviled 182 Forcemeat 219 Fricassee of Brown 171 Fricassee of White 171 Fried 175 Chicken, a 1'Italienne 181 In Jelly 187 Larded and Roasted 169 Livers en bro- chette 183 a la Marengo 173 Omelet 259 Pie, Raked 184 Pilaff of 174 Pot-pie 184 Pressed 191 Roasted, with Giblet Sauce 167 Salad 236 Smothered 170 Souffle 185 Soup 13 Spring, Broil' d 176 Stewed 172 Stuffed with Chestnuts 169 au Supreme 172 a la Tartars 176 Terrapin 180 Vol-au-Vent 386 Chili Vinegar 535 China, To Mend 553 Chocolate 542 Bavarian Cream 416 Cake 482 Cake, Layer 493 Caramels No. 1 509 Caramels No. 2 509 Eclairs 502 Ice Cream 449 Ice Cream, Nea- politan 453 Icing 504 Parfait 457 Pudding 400 Chocolates, Cream 511 Chops, Lamb 121 Breaded 115 Breaded, with a Puree of Potatoes 115 Broiled 11.3 Broiled, with a Pu- ree of Potatoes 115 | Chow Chow Chowder, Clam Corn Fish Potato Chowders Cinnamon Bun Clam Chowder Fritters Clams Fried Pickled To Roast Stewed Cocoa Nibs From the Nibs ?i2« 34 sr, S5 f« 34 478 34 S2 62 6.' 62 62 6- 512 542 M Cocoanut Cake, Layer 493 Cake, Loaf 487 Custard 377 Pudding 400 Coddled Apples 516 Codfish Balls 48 Fresh, To Boil 42 Salt, To Boil 43 Salt, with Cream Sauce 48 Salt, Stewed 4S Cold Puddings 399 Cold Slaw 241 Coffee 539 Boiled 541 French 540 Coffee, Bavarian Cream 416 Frosen 466 Fruit Cake 492 Combinations of Food, Suitable 560 Consomme' 13 Cooks, Advice to 367 Corn 353 Boiled on Cob 275 Boiled in Husks 275 Bread 320 Bread .Adirondack 321 Canned, To Cook 277 Canned, Fritters of 276 Chowder 35 Cold 278 INDEX 563 Com Dodgers 338 Croquante of Peaches 421 Custard, Quaking 424 Dried, 27S Raspberries 422 Rice 424 Eat, How to 275 Strawberries 422 Souffle 425 Fritters 276 Croquettes, Bean 267 Tapioca 425 Genu 131 Chicken 178 Custards, Cup 423 Griddle Cakes 337 Ham 149 Farina 425 Hulled 354,355 Hominy 2S2 Oysters 276 Macaroni 361 Dandelion Salad 242 Pudding 276 OyBter 72 Dandelions, Boiled 280 Salad 242,278 Potato 294 Wilted 280 Corned Beef 101 Rice No. 1 357 Desserts 412 Beef and Cabbage 269 Rice No. 2 3>7 Apple Dowdy 431 Beef Hash 97 Salmon 50 Apple Meringue 431 Beers Liver 106 Shad Roe 50 Apple Sago 430 Corn-starch Custard 423 Sweetbread 111 Apple Slump 432 Cottage Pudding 892 Veal i24 Apple Snow 432 Crab Apple Jelly 471 Crullers 844 Bavarian Cream Crab Salad 237 French 845 Apricot 415 Crabs 58 German 845 Chocolate 416 Boiled 59 Crumpets 837 Coffee 416 Deviled 50 Cucumber Catsup 632 Peach 417 Soft Shell 50 Salad 341 Pineapple 417 Soft, Fried in But- Cucumbers, Fried 279 Plum 417 ter m Fried in Batter 279 Raspberry 4i7 Cracked Wheat 354 Stewed No. 1 278 Strawberry 418 Cranberries, To Keep 553 Stewed No. 2 279 Blanc Mange 412 Cranberry Jelly 472 Cup, or 1, 2, 3, 4 Cake, 486 Blanc Mange Pie No. 1 877 Cup Custards 423 Fruit 412 Pie No. 2 377 Currant Jelly 472 Brown Betty 433 Sauce 226 Jelly Sauco 227 Cake, Cream Pie 413 Stewed 517 Sponge 120 Charlotte, Apple 414 Tarts 377 Currants Charlotte, Craw-Fish 60 Dried, To Clean 557 Parisian 415 Creain Cake Pie 413 Fresh, To Serve 514 Charlotte Rune 414 Candy 510 Currants and Raspber- Cream Candy, Rose 511 ries, Canned 522 American 418 Cherries 512 Curry, Chicken 175 Fried 413 Chocolates 511 Mutton 116 Hamburg 419 Dates 511 Sauce 227 Italian 419 Pie 377 Cusk A la C-ri'mc 49 Orange 419 Puffs 501 Custard, Cocoanut 377 Snow 420 Salad Dressing 236 Lemon 379 Tapioca 420 Sauce 226 Lemon, Grand- Velvet 420 Sauce, Pudding 4:!6 mother's 379 Croquante of Sponge Cake 496 Sweet Potato 383 Oranges 422 Tomato Sauce 332 White Potato 384 Peaches 421 Cream, To Whip 557 Custard, Baked 422 Raspberries 422 Creamy Sauce 437 Corn-starch 123 Strawberries 422 Croquante of Oranges 422 French 423 Custard, Baked 422 570 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Desserts, Custard Corn-starch 423 French 423 Quaking 424 Rice 424 Botiftte 425 Tapioca 425 Custards, Cap 423 Farina 125 Dumplings Apple No. 1 428 Apple No. 2 426 Peach 427 Rice 427 Floating Island 433 Gooseberry Fool 433 Orange Cake with Vanilla Sauce 413 Orange Float 431 Fain Perdu 434 Rice, Meringue 431 Rice Soufli« 435 Snow, Angels' 431 Snow Balls 435 Sponge, Apple 428 Blackberry 428 Currant 429 Lemon 429 Orange 429 Raspberry 429 Strawberry 429 Strawberry Short Cake 413 Tapioca, Apple 429 Cherry 440 Orange 430 Peach 430 Raspberry 430 Strawberry 431 Tout Fait 435 Deviled Chicken 182 Crabs 59 Eggs 256 Halibut GO Lobster 57 Oysters 71 Dinner-Giving for Sensible People 247 Dock, Sour or Narrow 280 Dominoes 500 Doughnuts 343 Bread 344 Drawn Butter 227 Dress, Cooks' 368 Dressing, Salad 235 Salad, Cream 236 Salad, French 235 Salad, without oil 235 Mayonnaise 234 Drinks 539 Drowned.To Resuscitate the 551 Ducklings, to Roast 197 Ducks, Roasted 196 Ragout of 197 Salmi of 198 Wild 209 Dutched Lettuce 284 Earthen and Stone- ware 548 Eels 53 Fried 54 Stewed 53 Egg Biscuits 340 Egg-Plant, Baked 281 Fried No. 1 281 Fried No. 2 281 Eggs 253 Baked 253 Beauregard 254 a la Bechamel 254 Boiled 255 Breakfast 255 a la Crime 255 Deviled 256 Fondue . 256 Fried 257 in Marinade 257 sur le Plat 257 Poached 258 Salad 242 Sauce 228 Scrambled 258 Stuffed 258 Endive 281 Salad 242 English Muffins 327 - Plum Pudding 396 Walnuts, GlaoS xt Fairy or Nun's Butter 4.1$ Fancy Cakes 486 Farina 352,355 Custards 425 Fat 79 To Clarify 558 To Test Heat of 555 Fibriu 79 Fire, Care of 367 Fish 41 To Boil 42 To Broil 44 Chowder 35 Craw 60 a la Creme 43 Croquettes 50 ToFry 43 s la Heine 49 Salad 23S Sauce 228 Sauces 221 Shell 55 Flannel Cakes 329 Floating Island 43J Flounders, Fried 44 Foamy Sauce 437 Food, Combinations of 560 Requirements 560 Foods, Carbonaceous 562 Fat Forming 563 Inorganic 552 Nitrogenous 562 Forcemeat Balls 13 Chicken 219 Ham 219 Forcemeats and Stuffings 219 French Artichokes 2M Bread 316 Custard 4-^ Dressing 23> Fritters 341 Honey 549 Rolls 323 Fricandeau of Veal 126 572 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Hamburg Cream 410 Ice Cream, Philadelphia Jelly, Grape 473 Steaks 8< Pineapple Grape, Green 47:-. Hard Sauce •138 Pistachio 451 Lemon 467 Haricot of Mutton 119 Raspberry Mixed 4f.S Hash, Baked No. 1 96 Strawberry 452 Orange 467 Baked No. 2 97 Vanilla 452 Peach 473 Boston Brown 98 Neapolitan 1.12 Pear 474 Corn Beef 97 Caramel 452 Plum 474 Plain 97 Chocolate 4.13 Port Wine 467 Sheep's head 120 Vanilla 453 Quince 474 On Toast 97 Ice Cream Cake 493 Raspberry 471 Hashes and Warmed- Ice Creams •145 Rock Work of 46s over Meats 96 Iced Cake 456 Strawberry 474 Heart, Beef's, Baked 101 Icing, Boiled 505 Wine 467 Beers, Spiced 101 Chocolate 504 JeUy Bag, To Make .11- Beefs, Stewed 103 Gelatine 505 To Wash 359 Beef's, with Veal Orange 504 Jelly Cake 494 Stuffing 105 Plain 501 Jelly, To fill Oranges Herring, Fried 11 Strawberry 504 with 555 Hickory-nut Cake 486 Icings or ProstingB 504 Jerusalem Artichokes 261 Hoe Cake 338 Indian Griddle Cakes 335 Pickled 264 Hominy SS4 LoafCake 483 Johnny Cake 339 Boiled 281 Pudding 3.93 Jolly Boys 312 Breakfast 854 Ink Stains, To Remove 552 Jumbles No. i 49S Croquettes 2 -2 Intemperance 561 No. 2 498 Muffins 826 Intestines, Hog's, Hot Corn Bread 322 To Clean I58 Kale 2>2 Hot Pot 117 Irish Stew 119 Kettles, Brass, To Clean 553 Hot Puddings 389 Iron Mould, To Remove 552 Soup 2 How 551 Iron Ware 547 Kidney Beans 266 Huckleberry Pie 379 Italian Cheese 132 Kidney Saut6 106 Hulled Corn 354 315 Cream 419 Stewed 105 Hygienic Graham Gems 332 Terrapin style li*. Jackson Snaps 500 Kidneys, Sheep's en bro- Ice Cream Jam, Blackberry 523 chette No. 1 120 Philadelphia Grape 524 No. 2 121 Alaska Bake 155 Jellied Veal 120 Kisses 502 Apricot 447 Jellies 407 Kitchen and Pantry, In Banana •117 Jelly, Apple 470 the 514 Biscuit ■lis Aspic 409 Kitchen Utensils, Bis'iue 4 IS Blackberry 471 Agate Ware 547 Brown Bread 418 Brandy 408 Earthen and Stone Burnt Almond 447 Calf's Foot 469 Ware 54? Caramel 448 Cardinal 468 Iron and Steel Ware 547 Chocolate 119 Cherry 472 Miscellaneous 515 Coffee 419 Crab Apple 471 Tin Ware 515 Lemon ■150 Cranberry •172 Wooden Ware 546 Orange 450 Currant 472 Knives, To Wash 369 Peach 450 Damson 473 Knuckle of Veal US INDEX 573 Kohl-rabi 271 Lobster Sauce 228 Meats, To Thaw 558 Krupfen 479 Scalloped 57 Menus 249 Vol-uu-Vent 380 Mildew, To take out 553 Lady Cake 489 with Cecil Sauce 58 Milk Bread 317 Fingers 503 with Cream Sauce 58 with Potato Lamb 121 Lobsters, To lioil and Sponge 317 Ilaked or Roosted Open 55 Milk, To Scald 558 Quarter of 121 Lyonnaise Potatoes 296 Mince Meat 381 Chops 121 Mint Sauce 229 Larding 554 Macaroni 358 Mirlltons 382 With Truffles 554 Baked 359 Mixed Fruits, Frozen Lardoons 554 Boiled, Plain 301 No. 1 403 Layer Cake 492 Cream 3.VJ No. 2 404 Lemon Butter 54S Croquettes 301 Pickles 527 Custard 879 a l'ltalieune iVYs Mock Miuce Pie 882 Jelly 467 Timbale 302 Turtle Soup M Pickle 580 with Brown Molasses Cake No. 1 484 Pie 3X0 Sauce X2 Cake No. 2 485 Sauce 488 with Cream Candy 510 Sponge 429 Sauce 361 Candy, Peanut 510 Wafers 499 with Tomato Candy, Walnut 510 Water-ice 460 Sauce 300 Pie 882 Lemons, To Keep 553 Mackerel 11 Montrose Sauce 439 Lentil Soup 6 Salt, Broiled 45 Moravian Sugar Cake 475 Lentils 282 Madeira Sauce 438 Mould, Iron,To Remove 552 Puree of 268 Mailred'Hotel Sauco 229 To Save a Library Rice and 288 Mandarin Salad 244 from 553 Rolls 283 Mangoes 531 Muffins, Bread 333 Lettuce, Dutched 284 Marble Cake ■1ST Cream 332 Salad 242 Marbled Meat 186 English 327 Lima Beans 266 Marlborough Pie 380 Hominy orGrits320 Dried 266 Marmalade, Orange 521 Plain 826 Puree of 291 Peach 524 Quick 331 Linen, To Remove Ink Plum 525 Rice 820 Stains from 552 Quince 525 Muffins, Gems, etc.. To Remove Iron Marmalades and Jams 52:! Raised 326 Mould from 552 Maryland Biscuit 340 Mush, Blackberry 5i0 Liver, Beef's, To Com 106 Mayojnaise Dressing 234 Oatmeal 355 Braised 135 of Salmon 239 Rye 355 Broiled 186 of Sweetbreads 237 Mushrooms 284 Rolls 187 Measures, Table of Baked 286 Stewed 136 Weights and 503 Broiled 286 and Bacon 186 Meat, Pressed No. 1 'Jo Canned, To Stew 280 and Onions 130 Pressed No. 2 90 Catsup 532 with BrowuSaucelS7 Rissoles 100 Dried 285 Lobster Chops 57 MeatSaucesand Gravies 221 Sauce 229 Deviled 57 Meats, Chemistry of 79 Stewed No. 1 281 Farci 56 Heat Applied to SO Stewed No. 2 285 Salad 238 Loss of Weight in 81 with Cream Sauce 227 574 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Mussels or Soil Shell Clams a Mussels, Fried 61 Stewed Mutton 112 Baked, Leg of 113 Boiled, Leg of 113 Braised, Leg of 114 Chinese US Curry of 116 Haricot of 119 en Papillote 116 Ragout of lis Saddle of 114 Scallop of 117 Shoulder of 114 Venison Style lis Nasturtium Blossom Salad 242 Nevada Mountain Honey 549 Noodles 366 Norwegian Bread 320 Nougat No. 1, No. 2 512 Nun's Butter 438 Oat Meal SU Griddle Calces 334 Mush 355 Oats 353 Oiled Pickles 528 Okra, Boiled 2S7 Stewed, with rice 287 Stewed, with Tomatoes 287 Olive Sauce Omelet, Bengal 259 Bread 250 Cheese 2511 Chicken 259 Ham 259 Jelly 259 Parsley 259 Plain 258 Potato 259 Spanish 200 Omelet Souffle 260 Onion Juice 150 Sauce 230 Onion Stuffing 221 > Onious, Baked, Boiled 2-* Boiled in So.t Water 261 Fried 28S Pickled 530 Stewed 289 Opossums 208 Orange Baskets,ToMake556 Cakes, with Vanilla Sauce 413 Cream 419 Float 4*1 Icing 504- Jelly 407 Marmalade 521 Salad 244 Sauce 43'J Sherbet 482 Souffle, Frozen •157 Sponge 42.1 Tapioca 430 Water-Ice 100 Oranges SH Filled with Jelly 555 Frozen 461 To Glace 556 Osmazome 1, 79 Oven, To Heat :wt Oxford Sausage 154 Oyster Plant, or Salsify 301 Oyster Croquettes 72 Filling for Poultry 74 Fritters 72 Loaf 71 Patties 38S Salad 239 Sauce 230 Saute 70 Oyster Crab Salad 239 Oysters 64 Baked 68 a la Bechamel CO Broiled, New York Style 08 Broiled, Phila- delphia Style OS Broiled on the Gridiron 67 Oysters, Broiled with Brown Sauce 07 Creamed GO Deviled 71 Fricassee of Fried, New York and Southern 6iJ Fried, Philadel- phia OS Kromeskies of 7:! Macaroni, and 70 Panned 07 Pickled 73 Scalloped m Served in Block of lee 04 Served on Half- Shell 64 Stewed No. 1 65 Stewed No. 2 65 Tripe, and m Vol au Vent of SS6 Paganini Tartlets 383 Pain Perdu 434 Pancakes a« Pantry and Kitchen 551 Parisian Charlotte 115 Parker House Rolls 322 Parsnip Fritters Parsnips 263 Boiled with Cream Sauce 2SU Fried 2SM Stewed 2J0 Partridges, To Broil 212 To Roast 211 Paste, Plain, with Batter S73 Plain, Half and Half 371 Plain with I.arU 374 Potato 375 Puff XA Puff, to Bake 372 Suet 375 Pastry Bag 55, Pastry and Pies 371 Pate de Foiea Graa 3S7 INDEX 577 Rabbit, Broiled 207 Fricassee of 207 Panned 207 Pie, Baked 184 Pie, Pot 208 Rabbits or Hares 207 To Select 207 Racabout 543 Powder, To Make 518 Raccoons 208 Radishes 311 Ragout of Beef a la Mode 92 Duck 197 Duck, Wild 201 Mutton 118 Rail Birds 213 Raspberries 515 To Can 522 Frozen 465 Raspberry Bavarian Cream 417 Jelly 474 Layer Cake 494 Pie 879 Sponge Tapioca I-M) 480 Vinegar 548 Water Ice 461 Reed Birds, To Roast 218 Refrigerator, Care of 869 Rhubarb Pie 885 Stewed 518 Ribbon Cake 495 Rice 354 Boiled 356 Boiled, Italian Style 357 Border, To Make 356 Croquettes No. 1 357 Croquettes No. 2 857 Custards 424 Dumplings 427 C- riddle Cakes,329,331 Lentils, and 283 Meringue 434 Muffins 326 Souffle- 435 Waffles 331 Richmond Maids of Honor 385 Rissoles 100 Roasting 80 82 Robert Sauce 230 Rolls 322 Roman Punch 466 Rose, Perfume of 550 Rusk 470 RutaBaga 30G Rye 353 Biscuit S37 Bread 319 Mush 355 Salad, Apple 244 Apricot 244 Asparagus Tops 210 Banana 24-1 Beans, String 210 Beets 240 Cauliflower 211 Celery 24i Chicken 2.16 Coru 242 Crab 237 Cucumber 211 Dandelion 242 Egg 212 Endive 242 Fish 238 Lettuce 242 Lobster, 288 Maccdoine 242 Mandarin 244 Nasturtium Blossoms 212 Orange 214 Oyster 239 Oyster Crab 239 Peach 241 Feppergrass 242 Potato 243 Salmon 239 Shad Roe 239 Shrimp 240 Sorrel 212 Sweetbread 237 Tomato 243 Salad, Turnip Tops 242 Veal 237 Watercress 242 Salad Dressing 235 Dressing, Cream 236 Dressing, French 235 Dressing, Fruit No. 1 243 No. 2 244 Dressing, Mayon- naise 234 Dressing, with- out Oil 295 Salads 233 Salamander 559 To Use .559 Sally Lunn 827 Salmi of Duck 198 Duck, Wild 201 Squab 201 Salmon, Broiled 45 Croquettes 50 Mayonnaise of 239 Pickled .-.1 Smoked, Broil'd 46 Steaks, Boiled 42 Salsify, Boiled 301 Fritters 301 Salt 562 Salted Almonds 555 Samp, or Breakfast Hominy 351 Sand Tarts 491 Saratoga Chips 297 Pudding 395 Sauces Meat and Fish 221 Allemande 222 Anchovy 223 Apple 223 Bearnaise 223 Bechamel 223 Bordeaux 529 Bread 221 Brown No. 1 224 Brown No. 2 221 Brown No. 3 2ir, Caper 225 Celery 225 INDEX 579 Soup, To Clarify 2 Soups, Cream 23 Meat and Vege- table 10 from Stock 2 Sour Dock 280 Pickles 527 Stew 205 Soused Pig's Feet 145 Tripe 109 Spanish Bun 476 Spare Rib 144 Spice Cake 486 Spiced Cantaloupe 527 Cherries 527 Peaches 526 Pears 527 Plums 527 Quinces 527 Watermelon Rind 527 Spighetti 358 Spinach 301 Sponge Cake 488 Spring Chicken 176 Squab, Salmi of 201 Squabs, Baked 202 Broiled 201 Squash, Summer 302 Winter 302 Squirrel Pie 184 Squirrels 208 Starch for Dark Calicoes553 Steel Ware 517 Stewing Fruits 516 Stock, Fish 41 Sauce and Gravy 222 Soup 2 Veal 23 White 23 Stone Ware 548 Strawberries 515 To Can 522 Croquanteof422 Frozen 465 Strawberry Bavarian Cream 418 Ice Cream 452 Jelly 474 Layer Cake 494 Soup, Cream of Salmon 31 Cream of Tapioca 29 Cream of Tomato 29 Duchess 25 Fish 29 Fruit H Giblet 14 Green Turtle 31 Gumbo No. 1 15 Gumbo No. 2 15 Halibut 30 Julienne 5 Lenten 42 Lentil 6 Lobster, Bisque of 29 Macaroni 6 Mock Bisque 29 Mock Turtle 16 Mulligatawny 17 Mutton 18 Noodle 7, 18 Normandy 19 Onion 7 Ox-Tall 19 Oyster 33 Oyster Plant 28 Pea, Dried 8 Pea, Green 16 Pen, Split 8 Pepper Pot 20 Potato 27 Rabbit 20 a la Heine 21 Rice 7 Sago 8 Salmon 31 Salsify 28 Sorrel 8 Tomato No. 1 9 Tomato No. 2 t Turkish 10 Turtle, Green 31 Turtle, Mock 16 Vegetable, Clear 5 Vegetable, with Shin of Beef 22 Vegetable, with- out Meat 22 Vermicelli 10 Strawberry Parfalt 457 Pie 379 Pudding 390 Short Cake 413 Sponge 429 Tapioca 431 Vinegar 543 Water Ice 461 Stuffing, Bread 220 Onion 220 Potato 220 Sage 220 Stuffings 219 Sturgeon 52 Baked 53 Broiled 53 Pickled 52 Stewed 52 Succotash 277 Suet Paste 375 Pudding 398 Sugar, To Clarify 559 Vanilla, To Make 558 Sunshine Cake 489 Sweet Pickles 526 Sweet Potato Bread 319 Custard 383 . Sweet Potatoes, Boiled 299 Fried 3OD Roasted 299 Warmed Over 300 Sweetbread Croquettes 141 Cutlets 140 Sweetbreads 138 a la Bechamel 110 Broiled 140 a la Creme 139 Fried 139 au Jus 141 Mayonnaise of 237 and Peas No. 1 138 and Teas No. 2 139 Swing Fellows 477 Table of Weights and Measures 563 Taffy 509 Tapioca Cream 420 George Rliofs Two Marriages An Essay by Charles Gordon Ames. Sixth edition, revised. This essay, read before the women's New Century Club of Philadelphia, was printed in cheap form, and passed through three editions, which were sold without being advertised. A venerable clergyman and eminent scholar, whose praise is in all the churches of America, calls it "the ablest, wisest and best article that has yet been written about George Eliot" ; and adds, "It is worth much to have her so defended that moral sentiment shall not be thereby outraged or impugned." A Philadelphia divine—a leader among leaders in a large denom- ination—calls it "a brave, candid, discriminating and, on the whole, satisfactory view of a very difficult and embarrassing subject." To meet the continued demand, a sixth edition, in new and handsome form, has just been published. i2tno, wide margins, uncut; paper cover, 20 cents No Sect in Heaven A Poem by Mrs. E. H. J. Cleaveland. The publishers believe this new and tasteful edition will be welcome to many old and new readers of the poem. Sewed with silk in covers of paper made by hand a hundred years ago. —" Beautifully printed, and bound in the neatest new rough-edge style."—Buffalo News. —"This admirable little poem has gone through several editions, and this latest one is as delicate and pretty a way to preserve it, in cheap form, as could be wished."—Philadelphia Ledger. —" Very prettily printed."—New York Nation. Square i6mo, paper cover, 25 cents Stops, or How to Punctuate A Practical Handbook for Writers and Students. By Paul Allardyce. Fourth Edition. —'"Stops; or, How to Punctuate,' by Paul Allardyce, is an admirable little book of the kind. It is exact without being finical, and brief without being too compact to include excellent illustrations of its meaning. Best of all, it elucidates the fact that punctuation is a factor of literary style, the question of period or comma not being always one of sense, but sometimes one of taste. The book contains directions for correcting proof."—The Critic. —*' It is a clever little book giving useful information in the art of punctuation, not dogmatically but so one gets the reason for using or not using the various stops. The book is beautifully printed."—Buffalo News. —"Trustworthy hand-book on the elements of punctua- tion."—Baltimore Sun. —" A bright little hand-book. Its rules are very clear, and most aptly illustrated."—Rochester Morning Herald. —" A valuable little book presented in handsome typog- raphy. Writers and Students will derive instruction from its pages."—Norristown Herald. —" The rules given strike us as reasonable, and, if fol- lowed, likely to put some check upon intemperance in punctu- ation."—Atlantic Monthly. —" The book lays down the rules and furnishes examples in a clear and concise manner, so that he who runs may read. The size is convenient, and every student should have it at his elbow, as handy as his dictionary."—Cincinnati Enquirer. —" Its clear and practical directions should be very help- ful. It is printed in a style which represents very creditably the book-making art."—Boston Journal. —"A very excellent and convenient book on punctuation, clearly explaining the rules to be followed in properly pointing manuscript. A fair and reliable manual."—Troy Times i8mo., paper covers, 25 cents; cloth, 50 cents. value in that, while presenting some of the most important results of his mature thought, it was written for a popular audience, and, therefore, as far as possible, is adapted, in style, to the comprehension of others than students. It is mainly a profound effort to demonstrate by scientific considerations the existence of Mind as a principle distinct from (though closely related to) Matter; and thus the existence of a Supreme Mind, and the possibility of immortality. The steps of the logical process are taken with masterly skill, and the argument is vivid and luminous. The particular observation by which the presence and action of Mind in the human economy is demonstrated is most acute and suggestive. On the whole, we think no previous scientific argument for Spirit (or, as Prof. Cope prefers to say, Mind), of equal cogency and value with this. While it must still, as the author intimates, be carried much further, he certainly has a right to call it a definite step towards that which to religious thinkers generally has seemed impracticable—"by searching to find out God." Incidentally other questions of great moment are suggest- ively considered, or alluded to—the existence of evil, the problem of liberty a necessity, the evolution of morals, etc. Altogether, the lecture—in which are condensed the materials for a volume—affords food for the deepest thinking, and opens, not unhelpfully, many important lines of study and reflection. In the present state of thought on religious and scientific topics, it has great value for every thoughtful reader. l2mo, wide margins; paper, 30 cents; cloth, 75 cents These books may be had of any bookseller, or will be mailed on receipt of price, to any address in the world, by the publishers, ARNOLD AND COMPANY 420 Library Street, Philadelphia J