NYPL RESEARCH LIBRARIES 3 3433 08224489 2 Holland T1:8 ECONOMICA frugal Hou olen tu DOMESTICI จ3r M: MARY: dia fweil das PRINTED I THE and ECONOMICAL COOK Frugal Housewife. a Nen System of DOMESTIC COOKERY, QIF OLLAND, 8 MARY HOLT MRS MATE non h Fuel del anno Davenport seura A NEW EDITION. London. Steel Plate PRINTED FOR THOMAS TEGG & SON, CHEAPSIDE, THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY 104776 ASTOR, LENOX AND TILDEN FOUNDATIONS. 1889 THE COMPLETE ECONOMICAL COOK, AND TRUGAL HOUSEWIFE; AN ENTIRELY NEW SYSTEM OP DOMESTIC COOKERY, | CONTAINING APPROVED DIRECTIONS FOR PURCHASING, PRESERVING, AND COOKING. ALSO, Trussing & Carving; PREPARING SOUPS, GRAVIES, SAUCES, MADE DISHES, POTTING, PICKLING, 8c. WITH DIRECTIONS FOR PASTRY AND CONFECTIONERY. LIKEWISE THE ART OF MAKING BRITISH WINES, BREWING, BAKING, &c. By MRS. MARY HOLLAND, PROFESSED COOK. rather you would marry a Young Woman without a Farthing, who is mistress of the art of Domestic Economny, than one who has Ten Thousand Pounds, and unacquainted with that necessary appendage to a good Wite. DR. JOUnson, THE FOURTEENTH EDITION Considerably amended and enlarged, the result of thirty years' practice. LONDON: PRINTED FOR T. TEGG & SON CHEAPSIDE; GRIFFIN ANB CO., GLASGOW ; T. T AND H. TEGG, DUBLIN; ALSO J. AND S. A. TEGG, SYDNEY AND HOBART TOWN, 1837. L.A.V. PRINTED BY J. HADDON, Castle Street, Finsbury. PRINTED SPORTS: HADDON, CONTENTS. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.. 13 - 48 Lamh.. 49 Veal., mons. CHOICE OF PROVISIONS. Page Page Brawn............................ ib. Venison.................. 50 Westphalia Hams and En. ib, glish Bacon................... 51 | Butter, Cheese, and Eggs... ib. Mutton. Beef... Pork........ 53 HOW TO CHOOSE POULTRY. A Cock or Hen Turkey, Pheasant, Cock and Hen.... Tarkey Poults................ Partridge, do do. .... Cock, Hen, &c................ Woodcock and Snipe......... A Tame, Wild, and Bran Doves and Pigeons........... Hare, Leveret, or Rabbit ... Wild and Tame Ducks...... ib. ! 54 Goose.... ib. . . . . . . . . . . FISH IN SEASON. General Instructions respect- 1 Carp...... ing the choice of Fish... .. 56 | Tench. Salmon..... Perch.. Tarbot.......... Smelts... Plaice and Flounders........ Pike............ Gudgeons.......... Soles................... Skaite. M Mullets.. ullels............. Eels................... Sturgeon........... Lobster....... Haddock. ib. Cray Fish............. Mackerel. Crabs....... Herrings. 59 Prawns and Shrimps... . Pilchards... ib. Oysters.......... Sprats.............. Salt Fish...... Cod. ib. Whitings.......... ib: B 2 IV CONTENTS. Page July: ARTICLES IN SEASON FOR EVERY MONTH. Page 1 General Observations........ January : Two Sets of Courses.......... Two Sets of Courses.......... August: February: Two Sets of Courses......... Two sets of Courses.......... September: March : Two Sets of Courses.......... Two Sets of Courses.......... October: April: Two Sets of Courses.......... Two Sets of Courses.......... 71 November: Two Sets of Courses.......... 87 Two Šets of Courses......... December: June: Two Sets of Courses.......... Two Sets of Courses.......... May: A Cod's Head 0n...... ib. ib. DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. 92 Haunch of Mutton. Edge-bone of Beef............. Saddle of Mutton.... ...... Sirloin of Beef... Ham. Round or Buttock of Beef... ib. Sucking Pig................ Fillet of Veal...... Goose........................ Breast of Veal... H are.......................... Calfis Head........ A Fowl. Shoulder of Mutton........... Pheasant............ Leg of Mutton............ Partridge.................. A Fore Quarter of Lamb ... Pigeons..................... Haunch of Venison.............. 95 ib. ib. DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING. Turkeys....... ............. 99 Wild Fowl. 104 101 Pheasants and Partridges... ib. Chickens... .......... 102 Woodcocks and Snipes.. ... 105 Geese............ ib. Larks.......................... Pigeons............. ... 103 Fowls....... ib. ib. Hares............. NAMES OF THE VARIOUS JOINTS IN ANIMALS. Beef....... ............. 107 | Pork.......... ............ 107 Venison.. .. ib. Mutton.......... Veal..... ............. ib. ................. ib. BOILED AND ROASTED MEATS, POULTRY, &c. General Observations on | Beef..... ........ 111 ........... 108 Round or Brisket of Beef.... 112 Do. do. on Roasting ib. | To keep Beef................... ib. These General Observations | Neat's Tongue..................... applied......................... 111 Mutton and Lamb... ......... ib. Boiling ............. CONTENTS. 123 Page Page Lög of Mutton......... 113 Haunch of Mutton, Venison Leg of Lamb............ Fashion........................ 119 Leg of Lamb, with the Loin To dress Hams.................. 120 fried round it............. Ham Baked... Grass Lamb........ Ham, or Gammon of Bacon Lamb's Head..... To boil a Tongue. ............. Veal...... Hare......................... Calf's Head. Rabbits.................... Pork............... Turkeys... Pickled Pork......... Goose.... Leg of Pork............ Ducks. .... 124 Pig's Pettitoes.. Fowls................... Sparerib............... Chickens.......................... Pork Griskin.... Pigeons................... To Roast a Pig............. Larks and other small Birds Another Way to Roast a Pig Pheasants and Partridges... To Bake a Gninea and Pea Fowl. ...... Hind Quarter of a Pig, Lamb Wild Ducks, Widgeops,.. Fashion.. ........ ib. Teal, &c.................. Porker's Head........ 119 Woodcocks, Snipes, and Haunch of Venison............ Qaails........ Ham........................... ib. ' Ruffs, Rees, and Plovers.... ib. 让让山H力山H北 ​北H北山 ​......... 127 BAKED MEATS, &c. Rump of Beef.................. 128 | Calf's Head...... ............. 128 Leg of Beef.................... ! '8 .................................. 129 Ox Cheek........................ ib. | Bullock's or Calf's Heart... ib. 10 ib. Ken................... Eggs............ 131 BROILING. General Observations......... 130 Beef Palates. .................. Broiled Hare.................... ib. Pigeons...................... Beef Steaks.......... Chicken. Mutton Steaks....... ib. Pork Chops............. FRYING. Beef Steaks.................. 132 Calf's Brains...... Staffordshire Beef Steaks... ib. Neck or Loin of Lamb..... Neats Tongue.................. 133 Best end of a Neck of Lamb Neat's Feet...................... Tripe............. Venison. Sausages..................... Veal Cutlets............... 134 Chicken....... Sweetbreads................ ib. STEWING. Romp of Beef... 136 Browning ...... Beef Gobbets.................. ib. | Shoulder of Mutton with Beef Steaks. Oysters............. ......... Fillet of Veal............ 137 | Breast of Veal..... ib. ib. B 3 CONTENTS. VA 42 ......... Page Page Knuckle of Veal. 139 Goose or other Giblets...... 141 Neck of Veal.... Dack........ Calf's Head........ Duck, with Green Peas.... ib. Ox Cheek............. 140 Pigeons........... Neat's Tongue....... ib. Pheasants..................... Neat's Palates.... ib. Partridges....................... Turkey or Fowl...... ... 141 | Woodcocks, &c...... .......... Chicken.................... HASHING AND MINCING. Beef............................... 144 | Turkeys, Fowls, or Rabbits. 145 Mutton........ .... ib. Ducks.......... Calf's Head.. . ib. | Hare, Wild Fowl, Pheasant, Minced Veal....... and Partridge... ............ ib. Venison............. .. 145 | Jugged Hare..... 146 ..... ib. I FRICASSEEING. Cold Roast Beef............... 146 Chicken, or Rabbits. ......... Neat’s Tongue............... ib. | Pigeons. Beef Palates................. 147 Sweetbreads, brown...... ib. Eggs... ...... Sweetbreads, white... .... ib. Eggs with Onions and Mush.. Lamb's Stones................. 148 rooms. ........................ Calf's Feet.. Tripe.... ib. Beef.............. Beef Palates..... Breast of Veal... Calves' Feet.......... Mutton. RAGOUTS. 150 | Fore Quarter of Lamb....... 151 Pigs' Feet and Ears.......... . ib. Sweetbreads..................... Goose...... 152 Livers of Poultry..... ......... ib. DIFFERENT MODES OF DRESSING FISH. General Observations. ... ... 154 | Carp.... Salmon. 157 Tench and Perch. .. Pike....... Trout......................... Turbot..... ib. Smelts. Soles..... Mullets........ Flounders, Plaice, or Dabs. Gadgeons............. Skate...... Eels............ Sturgeon... Cod. 162 Lobster..... Haddocks and Whitings. ... 165 Prawns, Shrimps, and Cray- Mackerel. ib. fish. Herrings......................... 167 Crabs.............. Sprats.... 169 Oysters............ Lampreys. LS............... .... CONTENTS. 193 SOUPS AND BROTHS. Page Page General Observations......... 177 Neat's foot & Italian soup... 191 Beef Stock...................... 178 To make a Liaison............ ib. Veal and Gravy-stock. ...... 179 Soup á la Flamond, Aspara- Jelly,Fish-stock, Mock Turtle 180 gus soup,and White pottage 192 Gravy and Spring soup....... 181 Brown pottage, Almond, and SoupJulien, Vermicelli, Hare, White soup.................... and Partridge soup... ...... 182 Flemish, Cray-fish, and Portable soup... ...............: 183 ter soup........................ 194 Chesnat soup, Soup & Bouilli 185 Lobster and Rice soup ... ... 195 Ox-cheek and Ox-tail soup.. 186 Carrot, Turnip, & Onion soup 196 Beef, Veal, & Mutton broth 187 Eel, Maigre, and Milk soup. 197 Chicken & Scotch Barleydo. 188 Spinach and Egg soup... .... 198 Scotch Leek, Giblet, and Green Peas soup...... ........ 199 Flemish soup. ............... 189 White & Spanish-peas soup. 200 Cressey, Transparent, and Peas-porridge... .......... ib. Calf's head soup............. 190 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Melted butter & Family cullis.2011 Robart and Celery sauce ... 209 Ragoat and Fish collis........ 902 Fennel and Onion sauce..... 210 · Cullis of Roots, Glaze for Parsley and Butte............. ib. Lardings, &c., and White Do. do. without Parsity ib. and Brown braise. ......... 203 Mushroom, Shalot, Lemoi, Dry braise, Bechemel, and Mint, and Turnip sauce... Beef-gravy................... 204 Sorrel, Salad, Russian, and A very rich gravy, Gravy for Caper sauces............... a Fowl without meat, an!! To crisp parsley............. · StrongFish & Brown gravy 205 Carrot, Italian, Chervil, aud Gravy to make Mutton eat Flemish sauces............... like Venison, Veal gravy, Stewed Olive, Apple, Bread, to draw gravy, and Sauce and Cucumber sauces...... 214 for a Pig....................... 206 Alamande,Royal,Pontiff',and Sauce for Venison or Hare.. 207 Egg sauces.................... 215 Sauce for a green Goose.... ih. Sauce for cold Partridges.... 216 Gooseberry & Turkey sauce ib. Do. for Savoury Pie & Carp ib. Marinade. Force-meat Balls.... ......... Ham and Lamb sauce........ 203 Lobster, Shrimp, Anchovy, e of Ham............ ib, Dutch, and Oyster sauce.. 217 Sauce for Roast Meat ....... 209 Quin's and Piquant sauces.. 218 Do. for Wild Fowls & Ducks ib. | Sauce for any kind of Fish.. ib. ib. Essen MADE DISHES. General Observations. ....... 219 | A Mock Turtle and Beef à Manner of dressing Turtle.. ib. 1 la Royale ............ ... 220 viji CONTENTS. Page Sirloin, Rump, and Round of Beef, forced............... 221 Beefă la Mode&Beef collops 222 Portugal beef, Beef steaks rolled, and cold Sirloin ... 223 Rolled beef, Mock Hare, & Tongue and Udder forced 224 Bombarded Veal, Fricandeau of Veal, and Veal Olives . 225 Fillet of Veal with collops.. 226 Pillow of Veal & Calf's pluck ib. Love in Disguise, Sweet. breads à la Daube, and Scotch collops............... 227 Leg of Mutton roasted with Oysters, Sheep's Ramps and Kidneys, and Mutton Rumps braised.............. 228 Mutton Chops in Disguise... 229 Steaks and Haricot, Mutton ib. A Haggess, Lamb chops, Sheep’s trotters, & Lamb's head minced.................. 230 Quarter of Lamb forced...... 231 Leg of Pork à la Boisson ... ib. Fillet of Pork, ſurkey in a hurry, and Pulled Turkey 232 Page Fowls à la Braise and forced 233 Chicken and small birds in Savoury Jelly................ 234 Chicken and Tongues......... ib. Puffs with Chicken, Curry, Rice to eat with Curry, and Ducks á la Mode...... 235 Goose à la Mode&Marinaded 236 Pigeons Compote & Jugged. 237 Partridges and Pheasants à la Braise....................... Larks à la Francoise.......... ib. Snipes, &c., in Surtout....... 239 Rabbits surprised............. Jugged Hare, Marinaded Soles, Smelts in Savoury Jelly, and Oyster loaves.. 240 Mushroom loaves, Maccaroni, Eggs á la Trip, Eggs in Surtout, and Ham braised. 241 Poached Eggs, Eggs_and Brocoli, Spinach & Eggs, and Eggs fried in paste... 242 Eggs á la Poulet, an Ome- lette, and Ramakins.... .., 243 Bubble and Squeak............ 244 ib MISCELLANEOUS CULINARY PREPARATIONS. Beef Hams, to cure........... 244, Souse for Brawn, &c., and Hung and Hunting Beef..... 245 Soused Turkey.............. 250 Pickled and Irish Beef....... 246 Fine Pork. Common. and Neat's Torgues............... Oxford Sausages............ 251 Veal and Mutton Hams. .... 247 Bologna & GermanSausages, Bacon........... ib. and Savaloys. ............... 252 Ham, the Yorkshire way.... 248 Hog's puddings with currants New England and Westpha- and almonds.................. 253 lia Hams.............. Black puddings................. Pickled pork,& Mock Brawn 250 To make Lard & Mustard... 254 ........... jb. TO DRESS VEGETABLES. General Observations. ....... 254 | Mushrooms.................. 260 Artichokes and Asparagus.. 255 Onions and Parsnips... ...... 261 Broccoli, Windsor, Kidney, Pease and Potatoes........ ... 262 and French beans. ........ 256 Sea Cale, Spinach, Sorrel, Beet-roots and Chardoons... 257 and French salad... ....... 263 Cauliflower, Cabbage and Lobster salad, a neat dish of Carrots.................... 258 | Vegetables, and Turnips.. 264 Cucumbers,Celery, & Endiye 259 | CONTENTS. VEGETABLES aod FRUIT, (best modes of keeping)............ 264–269 BOILED PUDDINGS. Page Page General Observations. ... ... 269 | Oatmeal, Pease, and Plum Almond & Apple puddings, puddings......................... 276 and Apple dumplings...... 270 Prune and Potatoe pudding. 277 Batter and Brandy pudding.. 271 Quaking, Rice, Sago, and Bread, Biscuit, and Currant Shelford pnddings.......... 278 padding......................... 272 Raspberry dumplings......... ib. Dimson, Gooseberry, ripe Spinach and Suet puddings. 279 Plum, Custard, Cream, & Suet dumplings............... Eve's pudding................ 273 A spoonful, Tansey, and Green bean, Hasty, Herb, White puddings............. 280 & Hanting puddings, and Yeast dumplings............... ib. Hard dumplings............. 274 Beef steak, Cabbage, and Muffin pudding, &c............ 275 Calf's feet puddings....... 281 Norfolk & Suffolk dumplings ib. ' Liver and Rabbit puddings. 282 282, BAKED PUDDINGS. Almond padding............... Lady Sunderland's, Italian, Apple, Apricot, Barley, and and Lemon-peel puddings. 287 Beef-steak puddings. ...... 283 Marrow & Millet puddings. 288 Bread and butter, Carrot, Orange, Potatoe,Baked meat, and Chesnut puddings .... 284 and Quince puddings...... 289 Cheese-curd, Citron, and Rice puddings................ 290 Cowslip puddings......... 285 Sago. Savoy, Sweetmeat, & Custard, Gooseberry, and Tapioca puddings........... 291 George puddings............ 289 Transparent, Vermicelli, and A Grateful pudding.. Yorkshire puddings......... 292 PIES, TARTS, AND PUFFS. General Observations. ....... 293 | Sweetbread and Mutton pies, Palf paste..... ... ib. and Venison pasty.......... 300 Pastes for Tarts and Pies ... 294 Pork, Raised pork, and De- Short crusts, and paste for vonshire Squab pies. ...... 301 Custards, &c................ 295 Goose, Giblet, & Duck pies. 302 Crost for a Venison Pasty... 297 Chicken or Rabbit, Raised Rice paste for Tarts, &c. ... ib. Rabbit, and Hare pies. ... 303 Iceing for Tarts................ Partridge and Pigeon pies... 304 Almond puffs, Beef-steak, Fine Pâtés...................... ib. and Raised Beef-steak pie 297 Raised French & Macaroon, Veal or Lamb pies... ......... 298 and Vegetable pies... ...... 305 Olive, Calf's head, & Calfs Vermicelli, Artichoke, and feet pies.......................... 299 Herb pies............. 36 ....... 306 CONTENTS. bot pies........................ 307 Page Fish, Eel, Cod, Sole or Tur- Flounder, Tench, Salmon, and Herring pies............ 308 Lobster and Oyster pies, and Lobster pâtés... ............ 309 Oyster pâtés & Mince pies.. 310 Lemon Mince & Apple pies 311 Apple and Barberry, Cherry, Currant, Apricot, & Goose- berry tarts. ................... 312 Apples for tarts.................. ib. Page Tart de Moi, & Lemon puffs 313 Orange or Lemon pie......... ib. Cranberry, Currant, or Dam- son pies, & Almond tarts. 314 Angelica & Chocolate tarts, Tartlets, & Chocolate puffs 315 Curd and Orange putfs, and Orange tarts.................. 316 Plum, Raspberry, Rhubarb, and Spinach tarts, Patties 317 Veal patties & Sugar puffs... 318 PANCAKES and FRITTERS........ ............... 319-324 CUSTARDS and CHEESECAKES.... 324–328 CAKES, Buns, Biscuits, &C......... 328–347 BREAD, MUFFINS, CRUMPETS, &c........ ....... 347–354 POTTING. General Observations.......... 354 Pigeons, Woodcocks, and Clarified butter................... ib. Moor Game................... Beef, Tougnes, and Veal.... 355 Ham with Chicken............ Venison and Hare. ........... 356 Bullace Cheese................. Pheasants, Paitridges, &c... 357 Dripping, for frying Meat, Geese and Turkeys............ ib. 1 Fish, Fritters, &c. ....... 282 ib. COLLARING. General Directions............ 350 , Venison........................ 362 Beef...... Breast of Mutton............... ib. Breast of Veal...... Call's Head...... ib. 361 P ig..... ........ . ...... ... ... 364 PICKLING. General Observations......... 364 | Tarragon & Wine Vinegar... Common,Cider,Elder-flower, Essence of Vinegar............ ib. Garlic, and" Gooseberry Mushroom Ketchup......... Vinegar.... ................... 365 | Walnut Ketchup.... ........... 368 Suga: Vinegar......... ....... 366 Oyster Ketchup.................. 369 CONTENTS. ib. Page India pickle............. 369 Lemon pickle................... 370 Qain's & Imperial sauce..... Sprats & Asparagus,to pickle 371 Artichokes, Barberries, and Beet-roots. ............... Cauliflowers, Cabbages, and Cucumbers. .................. Gherkins and Elder buds... 375 French-beans.. Page Lemons, Melons and Man- goes, and Mock Ginger.... 375 Mushrooms.................. 376 Onions, Parsley, and Par le Cabbage. ...................... 377 Radish pods and Samphire.. 378 Sour Crout and Walnuts..... 379 Codlings, Currants, and Golden pippins.... .......... 380 | Grapes....... ........, 381 3702 373 nh 1b. ...... ib. CONFECTIONERY AND PRESERVES. Clarified Sugar. ............... 332, General directions for Pre- Candy, Blown, & Feathered serving......................... 335 Sagar............ Apricots and Peaches. ... ... ib. Crackled and Carimel Sugar 383 Quinces, Grapes, and Green Codlings..................... COLOURING. Golden Pippins,GreenGages, and Morella Cherries...... 387 Mulberries & Gooseberries. 388 Blue, Green, and Yellow ... 384 Currants in Bunches... ... ... ib. Devices in Sugar............... 15. Cacumbers, or Gherkins..... 389 Sugar of Roses in Figures... ib. - 386 Red.......................... ib. . MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. Compote of Apricots and Currant, Raspberry, and Ap- Apples......................... 389 I ple jelly ........ Conserve of Orange-peel..... 393 Calf's foot jelly................ 394 Syrup of Capillaire............ ib. Fruits in jelly & Blanc Mange ib. Apricots, preserved in Brandy ib. Raspberry, Apricot, Straw- Brandy cherries, Grapes, &c. 391 berry, & Gooseberry jam... 395 Candied Ginger and Hore Black currant jam............. 396 bound.............. Economical method of pre- Carrant paste....... ......... ib. paring fruit for children... Gooseberry paste, Berga Preparation for chapped lips mot and Peppermint drops, and hands.......... and Barley sugar. ......... 392 ............ ib. BREWING. General Observations......... 397 | Boiling....... Brewing Vessels............... ib. Cooling... Management of the Vessels. ib. Fermenting....... Water.......... Tunning...... Malt, Hops, and Mashing ... 400 | Fining.. 404 405 406 407 ......... 398 . ... ...... . 4 ... 409 ..... 0 9 ...... xii CONTENT. Page Page To recover Beer when flat. 410 | Treacle beer......... 44 A hogshead of porter......... 412 To bottle porter............... ib. Old hock........................ ib. e beer... 415 Welsh ale........................ 413 Spruce wine and Cider....... 416 Imitation of Windsor ale.... ib. I To bottle Cider and Perry... 417 ENGLISH WINES. General Observations.... .... 418 Elder wine & English claret 423 Raisin,Currant,&Gooseberry ib. English champaign, Port, Damson and Cherry... ... ... 419 and Mountain................ 424 Raspberry and Mulberry.... 420 Ginger wine.............. .... ib. Blackberry, Grape,& Quince 421 Balm wine and Mead... ... 425 Apricot, Orange,&Cowslip... 422 Table of Income and Wages S........ 426 Marketing Tables, showing the price of any Article, from one pound, &c., to one hundred; and from one farthing to one shilling......... .. 427-432 INTRODUCTION. Management of Families. In domestic arrangement the table is entitled to no small share of attention, as a well con- ducted system of domestic management is the foundation of every comfort, and the respect- ability and welfare of families depend in a great measure on the prudent arrangement of the female whose province it is to manage their domestic concerns. However the fortunes of individuals may support a large expenditure, it will be deficient in all that can benefit or grace society, and in every thing essential to moral order and rational happiness, if not conducted on a regular sys- tem, embracing all the objects of such a situa- tion. In domestic management, as in education, so much must depend on the particular circum- stances of every case, that it is impossible to lay down a system which can be generally ap- plicable. xiv INTRODUCTION. The immediate plan of every family must be adapted to its own peculiar situation, and can only result from the good sense and early good habits of the parties, acting upon general ra- tional principles. What one family is to do, must never be measured by what another family does. Each one knows its own resources, and should con- sult them alone. What might be meanness in one, might be extravagance in another; and therefore there can be no standard of reference but that of individual prudence. The most fatal of all things to private families, is to in- dulge an ambition to make an appearance above their fortunes, professions, or business, what- ever these may be The next point, both for comfort and re- spectability, is, that all the household economy should be uniform, not displaying a parade of show in one thing, and a total want of comfort in another. Besides the contemptible ap- pearance that this must have to every person of good sense, it is productive of consequences, not only of present, but future injury to a family, that are too often irreparable. To keep rooms for show, where the fortune is equal io having a house that will accommo- date the family properly, and admit of this also, belongs to the higher sphere of life; but in pri- vate families, to shut up the only room perhaps in the house which is really wholesome for the family to live in, is a kind of lingering murder; and yet how frequently this consideration es- capes persons who mean well by their family, but have a grate, a carpet, and chairs, too fine INTRODUCTION. XV for every day's use! What a reflection, when nursing a sick child, that it may be the victim of a bright grate, and a fine carpet! Or what is still more wounding, to see all the children perhaps rickety and diseased, from the same cause. Another fruit of this evil, is the seeing more company, and in a more expensive manner than is compatible with the general convenience of the family, introducing with it an expense in dress, and a dissipation of time, from which it suffers in various ways. Not the least of these, is, the children being sent to school, where the girls had better never go, and the boys not at the early age they are usually sent ; because the mother can spare no time to attend to them at home. Social intercourse is not improved by parade, but quite the contrary; real friends, and the pleasantest kind of acquaintance, those who like to be sociable, are repulsed by it. Here is a failure therefore every way—the loss of what is really valuable, and an abortive attempt to be fashionable. A fundamental error in domestic life of very serious extent, as it involves no less, or even more than the former, the health of the family, arises from the ignorance or mistaken notions of the mistress of the house upon the subjects of diet and cookery. The subject of cookery is, in general, either despised by women as below their attention, or, when practically engaged in, it is with no other consideration about it than, in the good house- wife's phrase, to make the most of every thing, c 2 Xyi INTRODUCTION whether good, bad, or indifferent; or to con- trive a thousand mischievous compositions, both savoury and sweet, to recommend their own ingenuity. The injuries that result from these practices will appear in the course of this work. When these are fully considered, it can no longer be thought derogatory, but must be thought honourable, that a woman should make it her study to avert them. If cookery has been worth studying, as a sensual gratification, it is surely much more so as a means of securing one of the greatest of human blessings—good health. It is impossible to quit this part of the sub- ject of domestic management without observing, that one cause of a great deal of injurious cookery, originates in the same vanity of show that is productive of so many other evils. In order to set out a table with a greater number of dishes than the situation of the family at all requires, more cookery is often undertaken than there are servants to do it well, or con- veniences in the kitchen for the purpose. Thus things are done before they are wanted for serving up, and stand by, spoiling, to make room for others, which are again perhaps to be succeeded by something else; and too often things are served up that would be more in their place thrown away, or used for any thing rather than food. The leading consideration about food ought always to be its wholesomeness. Cookery may produce savoury and pretty looking dishes without their possessing any of the qualities of INTRODUCTION. xvii food. It is at the same time both a serious and ludicrous reflection that it should be thought to do honour to our friends and ourselves to set out a table where indigestion and all its train of evils, such as fever, rheumatism, gout, and the whole catalogue of human diseases, lie lurking in almost every dish. Yet this is both done, and taken as a compliment. We have indeed the “ unbought grace of polished so- ciety, where gluttony loses half its vice by being stripped of its grossness.” When a man at a public house dies of a surfeit of beef steak and porter, who does not exclaim, What a beast! How infinitely preferable is a dinner of far less show where nobody need be afraid of what they are eating! and such a one will be genteel and respectable. If a person can give his friend only a leg of mutton, there is nothing to be ashamed of in it, provided it is a good one, and well dressed. A house fitted up with plain good furniture, the kitchen furnished with clean wholesome- looking cooking utensils, good fires, in grates that give no anxiety lest a good fire should spoil them, clean good table linen, the furniture of the table and sideboard good of the kind, without ostentation, and a well-dressed plain dinner, bespeak a sound judgment and correct taste in a private family, that place it on a foot- ing of respectability with the first characters in the country. It is only the conforming to our sphere, not the vainly attempting to be above it, that can command true respect. c3 xviii INTRODUCTION. Cooking Utensils. The various utensils used for the preparation and keeping of food are made either of metal, glass, pottery ware, or weed; each of which is better suited to some particular purposes than the others. Metallic utensils are quite unfit for many uses, and the knowledge of this is neces- sary to the preservation of health in general, and sometimes to the prevention of immediate dangerous consequences. The metals commonly used in the construc- tion of these vessels are silver, copper, brass, tin, iron, and lead. Silver is preferable to all the others, because it cannot be dissolved by any of the substances used as food. Brimstone unites with silver, and forms a thin brittle crust over it, that gives it the appearance of being tarnished, which may be accidentally taken with food; but this is not particularly unwholesome, nor is it liable to be taken often, nor in large quantities. The discolouring of silver spoons used with eggs arises from the brimstone con- tained in eggs.- Nitre or saltpetre has also a slight effect upon silver, but nitre and silver seldom remain long enough together in domes- tic uses to require any particular caution. Copper and brass are both liable to be dis- solved by vinegar, acid fruits, and pearl-ash. Such solutions are highly poisonous, and great caution should be used to prevent accidents of the kind. Vessels made of these metals are generally tinned, that is, lined with a thin coating of a mixed metal, containing both tin and lead. Neither acids, nor any thing con- INTRODUCTION. xix taining pearl-ash, should ever be suffered to re- main above an hour in vessels of this kind, as the tinning is dissolvable by acids, and the coating is seldom perfect over the surface of the copper or brass. The utensils made of what is called block tin are constructed of iron plates coated with tin. This is equally to be dissolved as the tinning of copper or brass vessels, but iron is not an unwholesome substance, if even a por- tion of it should be dissolved and mixed in the food. Iron is therefore one of the safest metals for the construction of culinary utensils; and the objection to its more extensive use only rests upon its liability to rust, so that it re- quires more cleaning and soon decays. Some articles of food, such as quinces, orange peel, artichokes, &c., are blackened by remaining in iron vessels, which therefore must not be used for them. Leaden vessels are very unwholesome, and should never be used for milk and cream, if it be ever likely to stand till it become sour. They are unsafe also for the purpose of keeping salted meats. The best kind of pottery ware is oriental china, because the glazing is a perfect glass, which cannot be dissolved, and the whole sub- stance is so compact that liquid cannot pene- trate it. Many of the English pottery wares are badly glazed, and as the glazing is made principally of lead, it is necessary to avoid putting vinegar and other acids into them. Acids and greasy substances penetrate into unglazed wares, excepting the strong stone xx INTRODUCTION. ware; or into those of which the glazing is cracked, and hence give a bad flavour to any thing they are used for afterwards. They are quite unfit therefore for keeping pickles or salted meats. Glass vessels are infinitely pre- ferable to any pottery ware but oriental china, and should be used whenever the occasion ad- mits of it. Wooden vessels are very proper for the keeping many articles of food, and should always be preferred to those lined with lead. If any substance has fermented or become pu- trid in a wooden cask or tub, it is sure to taint the vessel so as to make it liable to produce a similar effect upon any thing that may be put into it in future. It is useful to char the in- sides of these wooden vessels before they are used, by burning wood shavings in them, so as to coat the insides with a crust of charcoal. As whatever contaminates food in any way must be sure, from the repetition of its baneful effects, to injure the health, a due precaution with respect to all culinary vessels is necessary for its more certain preservation. On Diet. That we require food, as vegetables require water, to support our existence, is the primary consideration upon which we should take it. But in our general practice of eating, it cannot be said, “we eat to live,” but are living pas- sages or channels, through which we are con- stantly propelling both solids and fluids, for the INTRODUCTION. xxi sake of pleasing our palates, at the severe cost often of our whole system. A reasonable indulgence in the abundant supplies of nature, converted by art to the pur- poses of wholesome food, is one of the comforts added to the maintenance of life. It is an in- discriminate gratification of our tastes, regard- less of the consequences that may ensue from it, that is alone blameable. But so great is our general apathy in these respects, that even on the occurrence of diseases, from which we are all more or less sufferers, we scarcely ever re- flect on our diet, as the principal, if not the sole cause of them. We assign them to wea- ther, to infection, to hereditary descent, to spontaneous breeding, as if a disease could originate without a cause; or to any frivolous imaginary source, without suspecting, or being willing to own, mismanagement of ourselves. We derive the renewal of our blood and juices, which are constantly exhausting, from the substances we take as food. As our food, therefore, is proper or improper, too much or too little, so will our blood and juices be good or bad, overcharged or deficient, and our state of health accordingly good or diseased. By aliment, or food, is to be understood whatever we eat or drink, including seasonings; such as salt, sugar, spices, vinegar, &c; every thing, in short, which we receive into our stomachs. Our food, therefore, consists not only of such particles as are proper for the nourishment and support of the human body, but likewise contains certain active principles, viz. salts, oils, and spirits, which have the pro- xxi INTRODUCTION. perties of stimulating the solids, quickening the circulation, and making the fluids thinner; thus rendering them more suited to undergo the ne- cessary secretions of the body. . The art of preserving health, and obtaining long life, therefore, consists in the use of a moderate quantity of such diet as shall neither increase the salts and oils, so as to produce disease; nor diminish then, so as to suffer the solids to become relaxed. It is very difficult, almost impossible, to as- certain exactly what are the predominant quali- ties either in our bodies or in the food we eat. In practice, therefore, we can have no other rule but observing by experience what it is that hurts or does us good; and what it is our stomach can digest with facility, or the con- trary. But then we must keep our judgment unbiassed, and not suffer it to become a pander to the appetite, and thus betray the stomach and health, to indulge our sensuality. The eating too little is hurtful, as well as eating too much. Neither excess, nor hunger, nor any thing else that passes the bounds of nature, can be good to man. By loading the stomach, fermentation is checked, and of course digestion impeded; for the natural juice of the stomach has not room to exert itself, and it therefore nauseates its contents, is troubled with eructations, the spirits are oppressed, obstructions ensue, and fever is the consequence. Besides, that when thus overfilled, the stomach presses on the diaphragm, prevents the proper play of the lungs, and oc- casions uneasiness in our breathing. Hence INTRODUCTION. xxiii arise various ill symptoms and depraved effects throughout the body, enervating the strength, decaying the senses, hastening old age, and shortening life. Though these effects are not immediately perceived, yet they are certain at- tendants of intemperance; for it has been gene- rally observed in great eaters, that, though from custom, a state of youth, and a strong constitu- tion, they have no present inconvenience, but have digested their food, suffered surfeit, and borne their immoderate diet well; if they have not been unexpectedly cut off, they have found the symptoms of old age come on early in life, attended with pains and innumerable dis- orders. With respect to the choice of aliment, those who abound with blood should be sparing in the use of what is highly nourishing, such as fat meat, strong ale, rich wines, and the like. Their diet ought to consist chiefly of the vegeta- ble kind, and their drink ought to be water, cider, perry, or small-beer. People whose solids are weak and relaxed, should avoid every thing that is hard of digestion. A nourishing diet, and sufficient exercise in the open air, are what, in point of health, will most avail them. To use freely a nourishing diet, is improper for those who have a tendency to be fat. They ought likewise to be sparing in the use of malt liquors, and to take a good deal of exercise. Those on the contrary, who are lean, should fol- low an opposite course. Persons who are troubled with eructations or belchings from the stomach, inclined to putrefaction, ought to live chiefly on acid vegetables; while on the other xxiv INTRODUCTION. hand, pscomach, skist of aniplaints, of food, on their dieth nervouid all fion; beside nature circumsta constitipare, anigestiontulents with hand, people whose food is apt to become sour on the stomach, should make the greater part of their diet consist of animal food. Persons afflicted with nervous complaints, or with the gout, ought to avoid all flatulent food, and whatever is hard of digestion; besides, their diet should be spare, and of an opening nature. The age, constitution, and manner of life, are circumstances which merit attention in the choice of proper diet; and sedentary people should live more sparingly than those who are accustomed to much labour. People who are troubled with any complaint, ought to avoid such aliments as have a tendency to increase it. Thus, such as are scorbutic ought not to in- dulge themselves much in salt provisions ; while one who is troubled with the gravel, should be cautious in using too much acid, or food of an astringent kind. The diet ought not only to be such as is best adapted to the constitution, but likewise be taken at regular periods, for long fasting is hurto ful in every stage of life. In young persons, it vitiates the fluids, as well as prevents the growth of the body. Nor is it much less inju- rious to those more advanced in life; as the humours, even in the most healthy state, have a constant tendency to acrimony; the prevention of which requires frequent supplies of fresh nourishment. Besides, long fasting is apt to produce wind in the stomach and bowels, and sometimes even giddiness, and faintness, though the strong and healthy suffer less from long fasting than the weak and delicate. All great and sudden changes in diet are INTRODUCTION. XXV universally dangerous ; particularly the transi- tion from a rich and full diet to one that is low and sparing. When, therefore, a change be- comes expedient, it ought always to be made by degrees. The practice is not uncommon to eat a light breakfast, and a heavy supper : but the latter of these is hurtful, often producing apoplexy, and always indigestion and nightmare. Where this is not practised, there will generally be found a disposition to make a more hearty breakfast. It is a disputed point, whether a short sleep after dinner be not useful for promoting diges- tion; and in several countries the practice cer- tainly is indulged with impunity, if not with evident advantage; besides that it seems to be consistent with the instinct of nature. It is however, only among a certain class that the practice can be used with propriety; and who- ever adopts it, ought to confine the indulgence to a short sleep of a few minutes. For, if it be continued longer, there arises more loss, from the increase of insensible perspiration, than can be compensated by all the advantages supposed to accrue to digestion. Those who use such a custom, which may be allowable to the aged and delicate, ought to place themselves in a reclining, not a horizon- tal, posture; because in the latter situation the stomach presses upon a part of the intestines, and the blood is consequently impelled to the head. Some stomachs digest their contents socner than others, and if long empty, it may destroy xxvi INTRODUCTION. the appetite, and greatly disturb both the head and animal spirits; for, from the great profu- sion of nerves spread upon the stomach, there is an immediate sympathy between that and the head. Hence the head is sure to be affected by whatever disorders the stomach, whether from any particular aliment that disagrees with it, or being overfilled, or too long empty. Such as feel a gnawing in the stomach, as it is called, should not wait till the stated time of the next meal, but take a small quantity of light, easily digested food, that the stomach may have some- thing to work on. Young persons in health, who use much ex- ercise, may eat three times a day. But such as are in years, such as are weak, as do no work, use no exercise, or lead a sendentary life, eating twice in the day is sufficient; or, as in the present habits of society, it might be diffi- cult to arrange the taking only two meals, let them take three very moderate ones. Old and weak persons may eat often, but then it should be very little at a time. The quality of our food is a subject of greater difficulty than the quantity; moderation is an invariably safe guide in the latter instance; but though always favourable to prevent ill effects from any error in quality, it will not always be effectual. To a person in good health, with a strong stomach, and whose constant beverage is water, cold or tepid, according to the season, or some aqueous liquor, the niceties of choice in food or cookery are less material than to persons with naturally weak stomachs, or to those in sick- INTRODUCTION. xxvii ness, or for children. But all persons who would to a certainty preserve their health and faculties, and live out the natural term of life, should use plain food, as all high seasonings and compound mixtures have an injurious effect, sooner or later, on the strongest consti- tutions. If a few instances can be quoted to the contrary, these, like other anomalies in na- ture, cannot constitute an exception to a well established fact. No part of our aliment is more important than our beverage. It is essential to moisten and convey our more solid food into the stomach, and from thence to the respective parts of the body; to allay thirst; to dilute the blood, that it may circulate through the minutest vessels; and to dissolve and carry off by the watery se- cretions the superfluous salts we take in our food. To answer these purposes no liquid is so effectual as pure water, with the exception of some few cases. No other liquid circulates so well, or mixes so immediately with our fluids. All other liquors are impregnated with parti- cles which aet strongly upon the solids or fluids, or both; but water being simple, operates only by diluting, moistening, and cooling, which are the great uses of drink pointed out to us by na- ture. Hence it is evident that water is in ge- neral the best and most wholesome drink; but some constitutions require something to warm and stimulate the stomach, and then fermented liquors“ taken in moderation are proper; such as beer, ale, cider, wine, &c., the choice and quantity of which depend on the age, consti- tution, and manner of living of the drinker ; D 2 xxviii INTRODUCTION. in and to have them pure is above all things essential; as otherwise, instead of being of any benefit, they will be highly detrimental. .. The best water is that which is pure, light, and without any particular colour, taste, or smell. Where water cannot be obtained pure from springs, wells, rivers, or lakes, care should be taken to deprive it of its pernicious qualities by boiling and filtering, but most effectually by distillation. Any putrid substances in the water may be corrected by the addition of an acid. Thus, half an ounce of allum in powder will make twelve gallons of corrupted water pure and transparent in two hours, without im- parting a sensible degree of astringency. Char- coal powder has also been found of great efficacy in checking the putrid tendency of water. To the same purpose, vinegar and other strong acids are well adapted. Drams or distilled spirituous liquors, the use of which is unhappily very prevalent, are of the most poisonous qualities; and from their direful effects are the destruction of thousands. From the degree of heat they have undergone in dis- tillation they acquire a corrosive and burning quality, which makes them as certain to kill as laudanum or arsenic, though not so soon. They contract the fibres and vessels of the body, es- pecially where they are the tenderest, as in the brain, and thus destroy the intellectual facul- ties. They injure the coat of the stomach, and thus expose the nerves and weaken the fibres till the whole stomach becomes at last soft, fabby, and relaxed. From whence ensues loss of appetite, indigestion, and diseases that gene- INTRODUCTION. xxix rally terminate in premature death. Spirituous liquors in any way, whether alone, mixed with water, in punch, shrub, noyau, or other liqueurs, are all slow poisons. It would be endless to enter on an account of the different qualities of all sorts of wines; but it may be said in general, that all the light wines of a moderate strength, due age and ma- turity, are more wholesome for the constitution than the rich, hot, strong, heavy wines; for the light wines inflame the juices of the body less, and go off the stomach with less difficulty. The last thing to be said concerning liquors is, that wine and all other strong liquors, are as hard to digest as solid, strong food. This is not only evident with respect to persons of weak stomachs and digestion, but also from strong healthy people, who only drink either water or small beer at their meals, and are able to eat and digest almost double the quantity of what they could if they drank strong liquors. It ap- pears very plain, therefore, that we should not drink strong liquors at our meals, as by their heat and activity they hurry the food undi- gested into the habit of the body, and by that means lay a foundation for various distempers. An abstinence, in short, from fermented liquors would preserve our mental faculties in vigour, and our bodies from many painful disorders that afflict mankind, as there is no doubt that we may principally ascribe to them the gout, rheumatism, stone, cancer, fevers, hysterics, lunacy, apoplexy, and palsy. - 13 XXX INTRODUCTION. OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROPERTIES OF VARIOUS ARTICLES OF FOOD. Bread. Bread is so important an article of domestic expenditure that no waste should be allowed ; and to have it cut in the room will in some mea- sure prevent it. Earthen pans with covers keep it best. Bread is very properly eaten with animal food, to correct the disposition to putres- cency; but is most expedient with such articles of diet as contain much nourishment in a small bulk, because it then serves to give the stomach a proper degree of expansion. But as it pro- duces a slimy chyle, and disposes to costiveness, it ought not to be eaten in a large quantity. To render bread easy of digestion, it ought to be well fermented and baked; and it never should be used, till it has stood twenty-four hours after being taken out of the oven, otherwise, it is apt to occasion various complaints in those who have weak stomachs; such as flatulence, heart- burn, watchfulness, and the like. The custom of eating butter with bread, hot from the oven, is compatible only with very strong digestive powers. Is of what that of the object of omach, af Milk Is of very different consistence in different animals; but that of cows being the kind used in diet, is at present the object of our attention. Milk, where it agrees with the stomach, affords excellent nourishment for those who are weak, INTRODUCTION. xxxi and cannot digest other aliments. It does not readily become putrid, but it is apt to become sour on the stomach, and thence to produce flatulence, heartburn, or gripes, and in some constitutions, a looseness. The best milk is from a cow at three or four years of age, about two months after producing a calf. It is lighter, but more watery, than the milk of sheep and goats; while, on the other hand, it is more thick and heavy than the milk of asses and mares, which are next in consistence to human milk. On account of the acid which is generated after digestion, milk coagulates in all stomachs; but the caseous or cheesy part is again dissolved by the digestive juices, and rendered fit for the purposes of nutrition. It is improper to eat acid substances with milk, as these would tend to prevent the due digestion of it. Butter. Some persons inveigh against the use of but- ter as universally pernicious; but they might with equal reason condemn all vegetable oils, which form a considerable part of diet in the southern climates, and seem to have been bene- ficially intended by nature for that purpose. Butter, like every other oily substance, has doubtless a relaxing quality, and if long re- tained in the stomach, is liable to become ran- cid; but, if eaten in moderation, it will not pro- duce those effects. It is, however, improper in bilious constitutions. The worst consequence produced by butter, when eaten with bread, is, xxxii INTRODUCTION. that it obstructs the discharge of the saliva in the act of mastication or chewing; by which means the food is not so easily digested. To obviate this effect, it would be a commendable practice at breakfast, first to eat some dry bread, and chew it well, till the salivary glands were exhausted, and afterwards to eat it with butter. By these means such a quantity of saliva might be carried into the stomach as would be sufficient for the purpose of digestion. Cheese Is likewise reprobated by many as extremely unwholesome. It is doubtless not easy of di- gestion; and, when eaten in a great quantity, may overload the stomach ; but if taken spar- ingly, its tenacity may be dissolved by the di- gestive juices, and it may' yield a wholesome, though not very nourishing chyle. Toasted cheese is agreeable to most palates, but is ren- dered more indigestible by that process. Eggs. The eggs of birds are a simple and wholesome aliment. Those of the turkey are superior in all the qualifications of food. The white of eggs is dissolved in a warm temperature, but by much heat it is rendered tough and hard. The yolk contains much oil, and is highly nourishing, but has a strong tendency to putrefaction ; on which account, eggs are improper for people of weak stomachs, especially when they are not quite fresh. Eggs boiled hard or fried are INTRORUCTION. xxxiii difficult of digestion, and are rendered still more indigestible by the addition of butter. All eggs require a sufficient quantity of salt, to promote their solution in the stomach, Honey. Honey is nourishing and wholesome, particu- larly for persons with coughs, weak lungs, and short breath. It is balsamic, cleansing, and makes the body soluble. Great care should be taken to get it fresh and pure; it is apt to turn sour by long keeping. Sugar. Sugar used in moderation is nourishing and good, but much of it destroys the appetite, and injures the digestion. Moist sugar is the sweetest, and most opening; refined sugar, of a binding nature. The preparations made of sugar, such as barley-sugar, sugar-candy, &c., are all indigestible and bad, as the good proper- ties of the sugar are destroyed by the process it undergoes in the making them. They are par- ticularly injurious to children, from cloying their delicate stomachs. Young children are in ge- neral better without sugar, as it is very apt to turn acid and disagree with weak stomachs ; and the kind of food they take has natural sweetness enough in it not at all to require it. Salt. Salt, moderately used, especially with flesh, fisk, butter, and cheese, is very beneficial, aş xxxiv INTRODUCTION. it naturally stimulates weak or disordered stomachs, and checks fermentations. But if it be immoderately used it has a contrary effect. Very little salt should be used with vegetable food of the grain or seed kind; for the less salt that is put to it the milder, cooler, pleasanter, and easier of digestion it will be. Salt excites the appetite, assists the stomach in digesting crude phlegmatic substances, is cleansing, and prevents putrefaction; but if too much used, it heats and dries the blood and natural moisture. It is best for phlegmatic, cold, and moist stomachs; and most injurious to hot, lean bodies. Salt-petre is particularly bad for bilious per- sons. Vinegar. Vinegar is cooling, opening, excites the ap- petite, assists digestion, is good for hot stomachs, resists putrefaction, and therefore very good against pestilential diseases. Too much use of it injures the nerves, emaciates some constitutions, is hurtful to the breast, and makes people look old and withered, with pale lips. The best vinegar is that which is made of the best wines. Lemon-juice and verjuice have much the same qualities and effects as vinegar. The commonest vinegar is least adulterated. Mustard. Mustard quickens the appetite, warms the stomach, assists in digesting hard meats, and INTRODUCTION, XXXV dries up superfluous moisture. It seldom agrees with weak stomachs. Spices. Cayenne pepper, black pepper, and ginger, may be esteemed the best of spices. Nutmegs, cloves, mace, cinnamon, and all- spice, are generally productive of indigestion and headach to weak persons. Tea. By some, the use of this exotic is condemned in terms the most vehement and unqualified; while others have either asserted its innocence, or gone so far as to ascribe to it solubrious, and even extraordinary virtues. The truth seems to lie between these extremes: there is, however, an essential difference in the effects of green tea and of black, or of bohea ; the former of which is much more apt to affect the nerves of the stomach than the latter, more especially when drank without cream, and likewise with- out bread and butter. That, taken in a large quantity, or at a later hour than usual, tea often produces watchfulness, is a point that cannot be denied ; but if used in moderation, and accompanied with the additions just now mentioned, it does not sensibly discover any hurtful effects, but greatly relieves an oppres- sion of the stomach, and abates a pain of the head. It ought always to be made of a mo- derate degree of strength: for if too weak, it certainly relaxes the stomach. As it has an XXXVI INTRODUCTION. .astringent taste, which seems not very con- sistent with a relaxing power, there is ground for ascribing this effect not so much to the herba itself as to the hot water, which, not being im- pregnated with a sufficient quantity of tea, to correct its own emollient tendency, produces a relaxation, unjustly imputed to some noxious quality of the plant. But tea, like every other commodity, is liable to damage, and when this happens, it may produce effects not necessarily connected with its original qualities. he hands is apt to put habit Coffee. It is allowed that coffee promotes digestion, and exhilarates the animal spirits; besides which, various other qualities are ascribed to it, such as dispelling flatulency, removing dizzi- ness of the head, attenuating viscid humours, increasing the circulation of the blood, and consequently, perspiration; but, if drank too strong, it affects the nerves, occasions watchful- ness and tremour of the hands; though, in some phlegmatic constitutions, it is apt to produce sleep. Indeed, it is to persons of that habit that coffee is well accommodated; for, to peo- ple of a thin and dry habit of body, it seems to be injurious. Turkey coffee is greatly pre- ferable in flavour to that of the West Indies. Drank, only in the quantity of one dish, after dinner, to promote digestion, it answers best without either sugar or milk; but, if taken at other times, it should have both: or in the place of the latter, cream rather, which not only improves the beverage, but tends to mitigate the effect of coffee upon the nerves, INTRODUCTION. xxxvii Chocolate Is rich, nutritious, and soothing, saponaceous, and cleansing; from which quality it often helps digestion, and excites the appetite. It is only proper for some of the leaner and stronger sort of phlegmatic constitutions, and some old peo- ple who are healthy, and accustomed to bodily exercise. Cocoa Is of the same nature as chocolate, but not so rich; and therefore lighter upon the stomach. PROPERTIES OF VARIOUS KINDS OF FRUIT. Apples Are a wholesome vegetable aliment, and in many cases, medicinal, particularly in diseases of the breast, and complaints arising from phlegm. But, in general, they agree best with the stomach when eaten either roasted or boiled. The more aromatic kinds of apples are the fittest for eating raw. Apricots Are more pulpy than peaches, but are apt to ferment, and produce acidities in weak stomachs. Where they do not disagree they are cooling, and tend likewise to correct a disposition to putrescency. Cherries Are in general a wholesome fruit, when they agree with the stomach; and they are beneficial xxxviï INTRODUCTION. in many diseases, especially those of the putrid kind. Cucumbers Are cooling and agreeable to the palate in hot weather, but to prevent them from proving hurtful to the stomach, the juice ought to be squeezed out after they are sliced, and vinegar, pepper, and salt, afterwards added. Gooseberries and Currants, When ripe, are similar in their qualities to cherries, and when used in a green state, they are agreeably cooling. Nuts and Almonds. Most kinds of nuts, and almonds, from their milky or oily nature, contain a good deal of nourishment; but they require to be well chewed, as they are difficult of digestion. Per- sons with weak stomachs should not eat them. The worst time at which they can be eaten is after a meal. Olives. Olives been gathered immature or unripe, and put into a pickle to keep them sound, are apt, especially if frequently eaten, to obstruct the stomach and passages. The best way of eating them is with good bread, when the stomach is properly empty. To eat them upon a full stomach is very bad. INTRODUCTION. XXXIX Peaches Are not of a very nourishing quality, but they abound in juice, and are serviceable in bilious complaints. Pears Resemble much in their effects the sweet kind of apples, but have more of a laxative quality, and a greater tendency to flatulence. 2 Plums Are nourishing, and have, besides, an at- tenuating, as well as a laxative, quality, but are apt to produce flatulence. If eaten fresh, and before they are ripe, especially in large quanti- ties, they occasion colics and other complaints of the bowels. Strawberries Are an agreeable, cooling aliment, and are ac- counted good in cases of gravel. ter PROPERTIES OF VEGETABLE SUBSTANCES. Potatoes Are an agreeable and wholesome food, and yield nearly as much nourishment as any of the roots used in diet. The farinaceous, or mealy kind is, in general, the most easy of digestion ; and they are much improved by being toasted or baked. They ought almost always to be eaten with meat, and never without salt. The salt should be boiled with them. E 2 INTRODUCTION. Green Peas and Beans, Boiled in their fresh state, are both agreeable to the taste and wholesome; being neither so flatulent, nor so difficult of digestion, as in their ripe state, in which they resemble the other leguminous vegetables. French beans possess much the same qualities, but yield a more watery juice, and liave a greater disposition to produce flatulence. They ought to be eaten with some spice. Salads, Being eaten raw, require good digestive powers, especially those of the cooling kind; and the addition of oil and vinegar, though qualified with mustard, hardly renders the free use of them consistent with a weak stomach. Spinach Affords a soft lubricating aliment, but con- tains little nourishment. In weak stomachs, it is apt to produce acidity, and frequently a looseness. To obviate these effects, it ought always to be well beaten, and but little butter mixed with it. Asparagus Is a nourishing article in diet, and promotes the secretion of urine; but, in common with the vegetable class, disposes a little to flatulence. Artichokes Resemble asparagus in their qualities, but seem to be more nutritive, and less diuretic. INTRODUCTION . Cabbages Are some of the most conspicuous plants in the garden. They do not afford much nourish- ment, but are an agreeable addition to animal food, and not quite so Hatulent as the common greens. They are likewise diuretic, and some- what laxative. Cabbage has a stronger ten- dency to putrefaction than most other vegetable substances; and, during its putrefying state, sends forth an offensive smell, much resembling that of putrefying animal bodies. So far, how- ever, from promoting a putrid disposition in the human body, it is, on the contrary, a wholesome aliment in the true putrid scurvy. Turnips Are a nutritious article of vegetable food, but not very easy of digestion, and are flatulent. This effect is in a good measure obviated, by pressing the water out of them before they ar eaten, sing the wate a good me and are faed, but Carrots Contain a considerable quantity of nutritious juice, but are among the most flatulent of vege- table productions. Parsnips Are more nourishing, and less flatulent than carrots, which they also exceed in the sweet. ness of their mucilage. By boiling them in two different waters, they are rendered less flatulent, E 3 xlii INTRODUCTION. but their other qualities are thereby diminished in proportion. Parsley Is of a stimulating and aromatic nature, well calculated to make agreeable sauces. It is also a gentle diuretic, but preferable in all its quali- ties, when boiled. Celery Affords a root both wholesome and fragrant, but is difficult of digestion in its raw state. It gives an agreeable taste to soups, as well as ren- ders them diuretic. Onions, Garlic, and Shallot, Are all of a stimulating nature, by which they assist digestion, dissolve slimy humours, and expel flatulency. They are, however, most suitable to persons of a cold and phlegmatic constitution. Radishes Of all kinds, particularly the horse-radish, agree with the three preceding articles, in powerfully dissolving slimy humours. They excite the discharge of air lodged in the intes- tines. INTRODUCTION. xliii INSTRUCTIONS RESPECTING THE LARDER. General Remarks. Cleanliness in the larder is one of the essen- tial duties of a cook. The dresser and the shelves should be well and frequently scoured ; and the floor should be very often washed with cold water, which, in the summer, greatly tends to cool it. The greatest possible care should be taken with every thing relating to copper utensils. Nothing whatever should be suffered to remain in them when cold; and they should always be cleaned, particularly the insides, with the greatest nicety. It is not proper for any thing to remain, even in tin saucepans, for any length of time. With respect to meat, it should always be the object of the cook, in summer, whether in town or country, to have it brought in as early as possible in the morning ; for when the sun has attained any height, it will be found scarcely possible to prevent the flies from blowing it. Should that have happened, the part must be cut off, and the remainder be well washed. The best way of keeping meat fresh is to examine it well, wipe it every day, and put some pieces of charcoal over it. Meat should always be washed before it is dressed ; if for boiling, the colour will be the better for soaking; but if for roasting, it should afterwards be dried. It should be observed, that all meat which is intended to be eaten cold, whether boiled or xliv INTRODUCTION, roasted, should be overdone, especially in hot weather; for, should the gravy be left in it, it will not keep sweet more than two or three days; but, if done quite dry, it may be kept upwards of a week. Roasted meat, before it is taken from the fire, should be sprinkled with salt; and boiled beef, that is intended to be eaten cold, should have been at least fourteen days in salt. For meat that is to be salted, it is a safe way to let it previously lie an hour in cold water, rubbing it well where there are in any parts likely to have been fly-blown; then wipe it quite dry, and immediately rub the salt thoroughly into every part, afterwards throwing a handful over it. Turn it every day, and rub the pickle in, which in three or four days will make it ready for the table. If it be required very much corned, let it be wrapped in a well-floured cloth after it has been rubbed with salt. By this method, if put into boiling water, beef may be made fit for the table the day after it comes in. Another remark is, that if the weather will permit, meat eats much better for hanging two or three days before it is salted. It should likewise be observed, that meat, and also vegetables, which the frost has touched, should be soaked in cold water two or three hours before they are used, or more if they are much iced. Putting them into hot water, or to the fire, till thawed, makes it iinpossible for any heat to dress them properly afterwards. Every morning, all the cold meat should be put upon clean dry dishes, and placed where INTRODUCTION. xlv the most air comes in. The stocks and sauces should also be examined, to see if they require boiling up, in hot water. Soups require to be boiled np every day, and the cook should be very particular about the pans which they are put in, for they should be very clean, dry, and free from grease, as soups will ferment without the greatest attention. Should the stock begin to turn, the best way will be to boil it down for glaze, and thus to make sure of it. When the sauces are put on to boil, remember first to put up a little stock into the stew-pan, to prevent it from burning to the bottom. Sauces require to be boiled, during the summer, at least every second day. In summer, also, whatever is done in braises ought to be made stronger than in winter; otherwise they are not likely to keep so as to be serviceable. Such lardings as may have been returned to the kitchen whole should be put into the braise that they were done in, and covered with the sheets of bacon which covered them over before they were taken out. It should be generally observed that ox rumps, tenderones of lanıb, and, in fact, every thing that is done in braises, should receive par- ticular attention. Indeed, as much care is re- quisite for such dishes as may be useful again, as in dressing fresh ones. In summer particularly, the cook will find it advisable not to have the larder overstocked with meat. One day's provision beforehand is always sufficient: and, by economy in this re- spect, the approbation of the family will always be obtained. xlvi INTRODUCTION. We shall now descend to particulars; and first of : Venison.--This is generally brought into the larder the day after it has been killed, and it should be immediately rubbed very dry with a cloth, and the kernel from the haunch, which is in the same place as in a leg of mutton, should be taken out. It should be rubbed over with powdered gin- ger, or with a mixture of three parts pepper and one of salt, for the purpose of keeping off the flies: if the weather be at all damp, it requires to be well wiped every day with a dry cloth; and, with care, it will keep a fortnight. Beef.-Cattle, in general, should fast twenty- four hours in winter, and forty-eight in summer, before they are killed; otherwise their flesh is very likely to spoil. When the beef has been cut into proper pieces, it should be searched for fly-blows. The fies are very apt to get under the loose side of the fat of the sirloin : that part should be sprinkled with salt, and salt sliould be rubbed upon the chine-bone. The peth should also be taken out, as should the pipe that runs along the chine-bone, and the places well rubbed with salt. It is the business of the butcher to take out the kernels in the neck pieces, where the shoulder-clod is taken off; two from each round of beef, one in the middle, called the pope's eye, the other from the flap; there is also a kernel in the thick fat in the middle of the flap, and another between the rump and edge-bone. Should these not be taken out, particularly in INTRODUCTION, xlvii сс. hot weather, salt will not operate as a preserva- tive; and, as the butchers frequently neglect this point, the cook should not fail to attend to it. Beef intended for roasting should always be slightly sprinkled with salt; and, with care, it will hang and keep good for a week. Veal.- In hot weather, veal, at the utmost, will not keep good more than three or four days. Of a leg, the first part that turns bad is where the udder is skewered back. The skewer should be taken out every day, and both that and the udder wiped dry: the udder should be rubbed with a little salt. To prevent a loin of veal from tainting, re- member to cut out the pipe which runs along the chine, the same as in beef. In a breast, take off the inside skirt, rub the bones dry, and sprinkle with salt. Should it be requisite to keep the shoulder, let it be wiped dry, sprinkled with salt, and hung up. Mution.-To keep a chine of mutton, remem- ber to take out the kernel at the tail, and the pipe that runs along the bone of the inside ; afterwards rub the part close round the tail with salt. The kidney fat should also be taken out quite clean. The butcher, in dressing the sheep, ought to take out the kernel in the fat on the thick part of the leg, which taints first there. It should afterwards be rubbed with salt. Of the neck, the chine and rib-bones should be rubbed every day, the bloody part having been first cut off. xlviii INTRODUCTION. A breast of mutton turns first at the brisket part: if wanted to be kept, the skirt should be cut out, and both sides should be sprinkled with salt. If mutton for boiling is suffered to hang too long, it will not have a good colour. Lamb. The same rules should be observed with lamb as with mutton. That, and every other sort of meat, should have all the kernels taken out as soon as it is brought into the larder ; then wiped dry, and rubbed slightly with salt. Lamb, for roasting, should hang as long as it will keep, particularly the hind quarter. Pork.-Pork should be kept well wiped, and the parts that are intended for roasting should always be sprinkled with salt before they are put down. T'he difference that this makes in the flavour is surprising. esta ONS THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY - ASTOR, LENOX AND TILDEN FOUNDATIONS. 2 TRUSSING Duok. Partridge. Rabit. Goose Fowl. Hare. Pidgeon. Woodcock. Turkey. CARVING Pidgeon. Partridge. Pheasant. Sucking Pig. Googe . Quarter of Lamb. Fowl. Нат. Wing Leg Haunch of Venison THEAT" IPUE ASTO' zmi. TILDEN FO}' AND . LIONS. THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY IS POR, LENOX AND *TIDEN FOUNDATIONS FIRST COURSE 00000000 SECOND COURSE --- - ------ ---------- ----- CARVING Edge Bone of Beef. Calves Head. Leg of Mutton. Shoulder of Mutton. Cods Head. OS Piece of Salmon. Hare. THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY ASTOR, LENOX AND TOEN FOUNDATIONS. COOKERY. DIRECTIONS AS TO THE CHOICE OF PROVISIONS. BUTCHERS' MEAT. Lamb. In a fore-quarter of lamb mind the neck vein : if it be an azure blue, it is new and good; but if green or yellow, it is near tainting, if not tainted already. In the hinder quarter, smell under the kidney, and try the knuckle: if you meet with a faint scent, and the knuckle be limber, it is stale killed. For a lamb's head, mind the eyes : if sunk or wrinkled, it is stale ; if plump and lively, it is new and sweet. Lamb comes in in April, and holds good till the end of August. Veal. If the bloody vein in the shoulder looks blue, or of a bright red, it is new killed; but if black, green, or yellow, it is flabby and stale : if wrapped in wet cloths, smell whether it be musty or not. For the loin first taints under the kidney; and the flesh, if stale killed, will be soft and slimy. • 50 ART OF COOKERY. The breast and neck taints first at the upper end, and you will perceive a dusky yellow or green appearance; and the sweetbread on the breast will be clammy, otherwise it is fresh and good. The leg is known to be new by the stiffness of the joint : if limber, and the flesh seems clammy, and has green or yellow specks, it is stale. The head is known as the lamb's. The flesh of a bull-calf is more red and firm than that of a cow-calf, and the fat more hard curdled. Mutton. If it be young, the flesh will pinch tender; if old. it will wrinkle and remain so: if young, the fat will easily part from the lean; if old, it will stick by strings and skins; if ram-mutton, the fat feels spungy, the flesh, close grained and tough, not rising again when dented : if ewe-mutton, the flesh is paler than wether-mutton, a closer grain and easily parting. If there be a rot, the flesh will be pale, and the fat a faint white inclining to yellow, and the flesh will be loose at the bone. If you squeeze it hard, soine drops of water will stand up like sweat. As to the newness and staleness, the same is to be observed as in lamb. Beef. If it be right ox-beef, it will have an open grain ; if young, a tender and oily smoothness; if rough and spungy, it is old, or inclined to be so, except the neck, brisket, and such parts as are very fibrous, which in young meat will be more rough than in other parts. A carnation, pleasant colour, betokens good spending meat : the suet a curious white; yellow is choice OF PROVISIONS. 51 not good. Cow-beef is less bound and closer grained than ox, the fat whiter, but the lean some- what paler; if young, the dent made with the finger will rise again in a little time. Bull-beef is close grained, deep dusky red, tough in pinching, the fat skinny, hard, and has a ram- mish rank smell; and for newness and staleness, the flesh bought fresh has but few signs, the more material is its clamminess, and the rest your smell will inform you. If it be bruised, these places will look more dusky or blacker than the rest. Pork. If young, the lean will break in pinching between the fingers; and if you nip the skin with your nails, it will make a dent; also if the fat be soft and pulpy, like lard : if the lean be tough, and the fat flabby and spungy, feeling rough, it is old, espe- cially if the rind be stubborn, and you cannot nip it with your nails. If a boar, though young, or a hog gelded at full growth, the flesh will be hard, tough, red, and ram- mish of smell; the fat skinny and hard ; the skin thick and rough, and if pinched up, will immediately fall again. As for old or new killed, try the legs, hands, and springs, by putting the finger under the bone that comes out; if it be tainted, you will there find it by smelling the finger; besides the skin will be sweaty and clammy when stale, but cool and smooth when new, If you find little kernels in the fat of the pork, like hail-shot, it is measly, and dangerous to be eaten. Pork comes in in the middle of August, and holds good till Lady-day. F 2 52 ART OF COOKERY. Brawn. Brawn is known to be old or young by the ex- traordinary or moderate thickness of the rind: the thick is old ;, moderate, young. If the rind and fat be tender, it is not boar brawn, but barrow or sow. Venison. Try the haunches or shoulders under the bones that come out with your finger or knife, and as the scent is sweet or rank, it is new or stale; and the like of the sides in the fleshy parts; if tainted, they will look green in some places, or more than ordina- rily black. Look on the hoofs, and if the clefts are very wide and rough, it is old; if close and smooth it is young. The buck venison begins in May, and is in high season till Allhallow's-day: the doe from Michael mas to the end of December, or sometimes to the end of January Westphalia Hams and English Bacon. Put a knife under the bone that sticks out of the ham, and if it comes out in a manner clean, and has a curious flavour, it is sweet; if much smeared and dulled, it is tainted or rusted. English gammons are tried in the same way, and for other parts, try the fat; if it be white, oily in feeling, does not break or crumb, it is good; but if the contrary, and the lean has the little streaks of yellow, it is rusty, or will soon be so. Butter, Cheese, and Eggs. When you buy butter, trust not to that which will be given you, but try in the middle, and if your smell and taste be good, you cannot be deceived. Cheese is to be chosen by its moist and smooth CHOICE OF PROVISIONS. coat; if old cheese be rough coated, rugged, or dry at top, beware of little worms or mites : if it be over- full of holes, moist or spongy, it is subject to mag- gots; if soft or perished places appear on the out- side, try how deep it goes, the greater part may be hid. Eggs. Hold the great end to your tongue ; if it feels warm it is new; if cold, bad ; and so in pro- portion to the heat or cold is the goodness of the egg. Another way to know is to put the egg in a pan of cold water; the fresher the egg, the sooner it will fall to the bottom; if rotten, it will swim at the top. This is a sure way not to be deceived. As to the keeping of them, place them with the small end downwards in fine wood ashes, turning them once a week end-ways, and they will keep some months. For longer keeping, burying them in salt will preserve them in almost every climate. HOW TO CHOOSE POULTRY. A Capon, if it be young, his spurs are short, and his legs smooth: if a true capon, a fat vein on the side of his breast, the comb pale, and a thick belly and rump: if new, he will have a hard close vent; if stale, a loose open vent. A Cock or Hen Turkey, Turkey Poults. If the cock be young, his legs will be black and smooth, and his spurs short: if stale, his eyes will be sunk in his head, and the feet dry; if new, the eyes lively, and feet limber. Observe the like by the hens; and moreover, if she be with egg, she will have a soft open vent; if not, a haid close vent. :: Turkey poults are known the same way; their üge cannot deceire you., F 3 ART OF COOKERY. Cock, Hen, &c. If young, his spurs are short and dubbed; but take particular notice they are not pared or scraped ; if old, he will have an open vent; but if new, a close hard vent. And so of a hen, for newness or staleness ; if old, her legs and comb are rough ; if young, smooth. A Tame, Wild, and Bran Goose. If the bill be yellow, and she has but a few hairs, she is young: but if full of hairs, and the bill and foot red, she is old : if new, limber-footed ; if stale, dry-footed. And so of a wild bran goose. Wild and Tame Ducks. The duck, when fat, is hard and thick on the belly; if not, thin and lean : if new, limber-footed ; if stale, dry-footed. A true wild duck has a red foot, smaller than the tame one. Pheasant, Cock and Hen. 'The cock, when young, has dubbed spurs; when old, sharp small spurs : if new, a fat vent; if stale, an open flabby one. The hen, if young, has smooth legs, and her flesh of a curious grain; if with egg, she will have a soft open vent; if not, a close one. For newness or staleness, as the cock. Partridge, Cock and Hen. The bill white, and the legs blue, show age; for if young, the bill is black, and the legs yellow : if new, a fast vent; if stale, a green and open one. If full crops, and they have fed on green wheat, they may taint there ; for this smell the mouth. CHOICE OF PROVISIONS. Woodcock and Snipe. The woodcock, if fat, is thick and hard ; if new, limber-footed; when stale, dry-footed; or if their noses are snotty, and their throats muddy and moorish, they are not good. A snipe, if fat, has a fat vein on the side under the wing, and in the vent feels thick. For the rest, like the woodcock. Doves and Pigeons. To know the turtle dove, look for a blue ring round his neck, and the rest mostly white. The stock-dove is bigger; and the ring-dove is less than the stock-dove. The dove house-pigeons, when old, are red-legged ; if new and fat, they will feel full and fat in the vent, and are limber-footed ; but if stale, a flabby and green vent. So the green or grey plover, fieldfare, blackbird, thrush, larks, &c. Of Hare, Leveret, or Rabbit. Hare will be white and stiff, if new and clean killed ; if stale, the flesh black in most parts, and the body limber : if the cleft in her lips spread much, and her claws wide and ragged, she is old ; the contrary, young : if young, the ears will tear like brown paper ; if old, dry and tough. To know a true leveret, feel on the fore leg, near the foot, and if there is a small bone or knob, it is right; if not it is a hare; for the rest, observe as in a hare. A rabbit, if stale, will be limber and slimy ; if new, white and stiff : if old, her claws are long and rough, the wool mottled with grey hairs; if young, claws and wool smooth. ART OF COOKERY. FISH IN SEASON. General Instructions respecting the choice of Fish. Of salmon, trout, haddock, cod, mackerel, herrings, whitings, carp, tench, pike, graylings, barbel, chub, smelts, ruffs, shads, &c., it may be generally remarked, that if their gills smell well, are red, and difficult to open, and if their fins are tight up, and their eyes are bright, and not sunk in their heads, they are fresh; but if the reverse, they are stale. Salmon.–This fish, which may be reckoned among the first in point of utility and flavour, is chiefly confined to the northern climates. At Colerain in Ireland, at Newcastle, at Berwick- upon-Tweed, at Aberdeen, and in various other places of Great Britain, stationary salmon fisheries are established, which are extremely productive, and enrich the occupiers, after paying very consi- derable rents to the proprietors. The general weight of salmon is from twenty to thirty, or even forty pounds; and we have heard of their weighing as much as seventy. Great quantities of salmon are pickled, and sent to London, and to various other parts. The inhabitants of London are also supplied with salmon from the Thames, which bear a higher price than any other. Those which are caught in the Severn are esteemed next in quality, and by some they are preferred to those of the Thames. The prime season of this fish is in April, May, and June. When new, the flesh, and particularly the fins, are of a fine red; the scales bright, and the whole fish stiff. When just killed, there is a whiteness between the flakes, which imports great firmness ; but, by keeping, this melts down, and CHOICE OF PROVISIONS. 57 the fish becomes richer. Salmon with small heads are the best. About the time of spawning, this fish becomes insipid, and loses much of the beauti- ful rose colour with which its flesh is at other times tinged. When pickled, the scales of salmon, if it be new and good, are stiff and shining; the flesh is oily to the touch, and parts in flakes without breaking ; but if bad, it will possess qualities opposite to these. Turbot.-This fish, which is a favourite dish at most fashionable tables, is in season nearly the whole of the summer. Turbot, if good, should be thick, and the belly of a yellowish white; if thin, or of a bluish cast, they are bad. Small turbot may be known from Dutch plaice by having no yellow spots on the back. Plaice and Flounders possess several properties in common with turbot. They are found both in seas and rivers. When new, they are stiff, and the eyes look lively, and stand out; but if stale, the contrary. The best plaice are bluish on the belly ; but flounders should be of a cream colour. These fish are in season from January to March, and from July to September Soles, if good, are thick, and the belly is of a cream colour: but if that is of a bluish cast, and flabby, they are not fresh. They are in the market almost the whole year, but are in perfection about Midsummer. Skaite is a fish of the ray kind, which is ex- ceedingly numerous. Those which are denominated maids are the most sweet and tender. The thorn- backs are older fish, larger, and of a very strong flavour. If perfectly good and sweet, the flesh of skaite will look exceedingly white, and be thick and firm ; yet if too fresh, it will eat very tough, and, if stale, it produces so strong a scent as to be very disagreeable. They should be kept about two days, but not longer. 58 ART OF COOKERY. Sturgeon.--The sturgeon is a very large sea-fish, which comes up the rivers to deposit its spawn. The flesh of a good sturgeon is very white, with a few blue veins, the grain even, the skin tender, well coloured, and soft. All the veins and gristles should be blue : when they are brown or yellow, the skin harsh, tough, and dry, the fish is bad. It has a pleasant smell when good, but otherwise a very disagreeable one. It should also cut firin without cruinbling. The females are as full of roe, or spawn, as carp, which is taken out and spread upon a table, beat flat, and sprinkled with salt : it is then dried in the air and sun, and afterwards in ovens. It should be of a reddish brown colour, and very dry. It is the spawn, when so prepared, which is generally termed caviar ; and it is then eaten with oil and vinegar. Cod.—The cod which are eaten fresh in England are caught in our own coasts. They are in season from the beginning of December to the end of April. This fish, if perfectly fine and fresh, should be very thick at the neck, the flesh white and firm, and of a bright clear colour, and the gills red. If they appear flabby, they are stale, and will not have their proper favour. Haddock.—This is a firm good fish. It is infi- nitely superior to small cod; from which it may be distinguished by two black spots, one on each shoulder. Its marks of distinction, when fresh, are the same as those of the cod. It is in season during the months of July, August, and September. Mackerel.-The season of this fish is May, June, and July. When alive, or very fresh, their sea- green colours are very brilliant and beautiful, their gills of a fine red, and eyes bright. They are so tender that they carry and keep worse than any other fish. They visit the British coast in vast shoals, during the season; and, in Cornwall, they are salted, and laid up for winter provision. CHOICE OF PROVISIONS. 59 Herrings.- The Dutch have been generally reck- oned the most expert in pickling herrings; but of late our own fisheries have been well conducted, and are now in a flourishing state. Herrings are taken with nets purposely con- structed ; and sometimes two thousand barrels are taken at one draught. If good, their gills are of a fine red, and their eyes bright; as is likewise the whole fish, which must be stiff and firm. To judge of pickled herrings, open them from the back to the bone; and if that be white, or of a bright red, and the flesh white, oily, and flakey, they are good. Red herrings, when good, have a glossy golden appearance, and part well from the bone. Pilchards.—The distinguishing marks of the pil- chard are precisely the same as those of the her- ring, of which it appears to be a species. The flavour of pilchards is inferior to that of herrings. Sprats are to be chosen by the same rules as herrings and pilchards. This little fish would, pro- bably, be regarded as a delicacy, were it less nu- merous and plentiful. As it makes its appearance shortly after the spawning time of the herring, many have supposed it to be the offspring of that fish; but naturalists are of a different opinion. The season for sprats is from the middle of November to February Whiting.–The goodness of this fish is chiefly to be determined by the firmness of the body and fins. Its principal season is in January, February, and March ; but it may be obtained during the greater part of the year, Carp is a very fine fresh-water fish. It will live some time out of the water ; but, as it wastes in that state, it is best to kill it as soon as caught. The newness or staleness of this fish is known by 60 ART OF COOK ERY. the colour of its gills, their being hard or easy to be opened, &c. Tench, which is also a fine fresh-water fish, should be dressed as soon as caught; but, if they are dead, examine the gills, which should be red and hard to open, the eyes bright, and the body firm and stiff, if fresh. They are in general covered with a kind of slimy matter, which, if clear and bright, is a proof of their being good. This slimy matter may be easily removed by rubbing them with a little salt. · Tench are in season during the months of July, August, and September. . Perch are less delicate than carp and tench. They are in season in October and November ; and may be chosen by the general rules. Smelts, when fresh, are of a fine, silver hue, very firm, and have a particularly strong scent, greatly resembling that of a cucumber rewly pared. They are in season during the months of January, February, March, April, May, June, October, and November. They are caught in the Thames, and in some other large rivers. Pike. The general rules must be observe l in choosing this fish. River pike are best. They are in season in July, August, September, October, and November. Gudgeons.--This fish comes in about Midsum- mer, and continues in season five or six months. They are caught in running streams, and should be chosen by the brightness of their colours, &c. • Mullets. The sea-inullets are preferable to the river-mullets, and the red to the grey. They should be very firm. Their season is August. Eels.--There are many varieties of this fish. The true silver eels (so called from the bright colour of the belly) are caught in the Thames; and eels which are taken in clear running water are always the best tasted. The Dutch eels sold at CHOICE OF PROVISIONS. 61 Billingsgate are very bad ; those taken in great floods are generally good ; but in ponds they have usually a strong rank flavour. Lobster.-If a lobster be new, it has a pleasant scent at that part of the tail which joins to the body, and the tail will, when opened, fall smart, like a spring; but, when stale, it has a rank scent, and the tail limber and flagging. If it be spent, a white scurf will issue from the mouth and roots of the small legs. If it be full, the tail, about the middle, will be full of hard reddish skinned meat, which you may discover by thrusting a knife between the joints, on the bend of the tail. The heaviest are best, if there be no water in them. The cock is generally smaller than the hen, of a deeper red when boiled, has no spawn or seed under its tail, and the uppermost fins within its tail are stiff and hard. Lobsters are in season during the summer months. Cray Fish should be chosen by the same rules as lobsters.. Crabs.-The heaviest are best, whether small or large; and those of a middling size are sweetest. If light, they are watery; when in perfection, the joints of the legs are stiff, and the body has a very agreeable smell. The eyes look dead and loose when stale. Prawns and Shrimps, if they are hard and stiff, of a pleasant scent, and their tails turn strongly inward, are new; but if they are limber, their colour faded, of a faint smell, and feel slimy, they are stale. Oysters.—The oysters of this country are unlike those of some others. With us, the smallest kinds, particularly those termed Natives, which come into season rather later than the others, are generaliy the sweetest. For eating raw, the Native is indeed pre- ferable to all others. The rock oyster is the largest, 62 ART OF COOKERY, and suits admirably for stewing, &c.; but, if eaten. raw, it usually has a coarse and a strong flavour. Of the various kinds of oysters, the Pyfleet, Col- chester, and Milford are much the best. The native Milton are fine, being white and fat; but others may be made to possess both these qualities, in some degree, by proper feeding. The mode of feeding oysters is to put them into water, and wash them with a birch-broom till quite clean ; then lay them bottom downwards into a pan, sprinkle with flour or oatmeal, and salt, and cover with water. Do the same every day, and they will fatten. The water should be pretty salt. The freshness of oysters is best known by the manner in which they open. When alive and strong, the shell closes on the knife; though, as soon as wounded, the shell gives way. Oysters should be eaten as soon as opened, otherwise they lose their flavour. These delicate and serviceable fish come into sea- son on the 2nd of August, and continue in it the succeeding winter. Salt Fish.-.Of the different kinds of salt fish, barrelled cod and dried ling are most in estimation. The former should be chosen by its thickness, firmness, and whiteness; the latter, by its being thick in the poll, and having the flesh of a bright yellow. BILLS OF FARE. LISTS OF THE VARIOUS ARTICLES IN Season-Fisir, FLESH, Fowl, Fruit, &c.-FOR EVERY MONTH IN TIE YEAR ;_WITH Two DINNERS, OR BILLS OF FARE, FOR EACH MONTH. JANUARY General Observations. The ensuing Tables, or Bills of Fare, are varied in size, as well as in the articles of which they are composed, in order that the cook might have the least possible trouble in suiting a dinner to a large, a small, or a middling company. Should any of them be thought too extensive, it is much easier to select a small course from a large one, than to make up a large one from a small one. As an additional assistant to the cook, a list of the respective articles in season is prefixed to the tables of each month. The first course should consist of soups, fish, and roasted and boiled poultry and meats: and the second course of different kinds of game, made- dishes, tarts, jellies, &c. Dinners of three courses are now exceedingly rare; and when a third course is given, it is consi- dered rather as a dessert, and usually consists of fruits, ices, and different kinds of ornamental pastry. ARTICLES IN SEASON IN JANUARY. Meat.—Beef, mutton, veal, house-lamb, pork, doe venison. Poultry and Game.-Pheasants, partridges, hares, rabbits, woodcocks, snipes; hen turkeys, capons, pullets, fowls, chickens, tame pigeons, and all sorts of wild fowl. G 2 64 ART OF COOKERY. Fish.—Carp, tench, perch, lampreys, eels, cray- fish, cod, soles, founders, plaice, turbot, thornback, skate, sturgeon, smelts, whitings, lobsters, crabs, prawns, oysters. Vegetables, 8c.-Cabbage, savoys, coleworts, sprouts, broccoli (purple and white), spinach, let- tuces, cresses, mustard, rape, radish, turnips, tar- ragon, sage, parsnips, carrots, turnips, potatoes, scornozera, skirrets, cardoons, beets, parsley, sorrel, chervil, celery, endive, mint, cucumbers in hot- houses, thyme, savory, pot-marjoram, hyssop, salsifie; to be had, though not in season, Jerusalein artichokes, asparagus, mushrooms. Fruit.--Apples, pears, nuts, almonds, services, medlars, grapes, foreign grapes, and oranges. TABLE I. FIRST COURSE. Vermicelli Soup, removed with Soles. Small Ham. Boiled Fowls. Roast Leg Potatoes of Broccoli. Lamb. Haricot Mutton. Veal Pâtés. Mock Turtle, removed with Roast Beef. SECOND COURSE. Woodcocks. Blancmange. Sweetbread. Cranberry Tart. l'oast Rabbit. Cray Fish. Larks. Mince Pies. Sausages. Jellies. Hare. BILLS OF FARE. 65 TABLE II. Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. FIRST COURSE. Turbot. Friandeau and Sorrel. Lobster Sauce. . Veal Patés. Beef Palates. Raised Pie. Pigs' Feet and Ears. Oyster Pâtés. Sauce Robart. Saddle of Mutton. , Ressoles. Rump of Beef. Sauce Hashée. SECOND COURSE. Roast Bird. Jelly. Cream Custards. Orange Cheesecakes. Larded Sweetbreads. Trifle. Ragout of Veal. Raspberry Tart. Cream T'artlets. Blancmange. Roast Chicken. FEBRUARY. ARTICLES IN SEASON IN FEBRUARY. Meat.-Beef, mutton, veal, pork, house-lamb. Poultry and Game.-Pheasants, partridges, hares, tame rabbits, woodcocks, turkeys, pullets with eggs, capons, chicken, tame and wild pigeons, and all sorts of wild fowl (which in this month begin to decline). Fish.—Cod, soles, turbot, carp, tench, sturgeon, thornback, flounders, plaice, smelts, whiting, skate, perch, eels, lampreys, gollin, sprats, dorey, holle- but, anchovey, lobsters, crabs, prawns, oysters, crayfish, G3 66 ART OF COOKERY. Vegetables.—Cabbage, savoys, sprouts, coleworts, broccoli (purple and white), lettuces, endive, celery, onions, leeks, garlic, shalots, rocambole, cardoons, beets, sorrel, chervil, chardbeets, parsley, cresses, mustard, rape, tarragon, burnet, tansey, mint, thyme, marjoram, savory, turnips, carrots, potatoes, pars- nips; also may be had, forced radishes, cucumbers, asparagus, kidney beans, salsifie, scorzonera, skirret, and Jerusalem artichokes. Fruit.—Golden and Dutch pippins, with various other kinds of apples, winter bon-chretien pears, winter mask and winter Norwich, &c., &c., grapes, and oranges. TABLE I. FIRST COURSE. Gravy Soup. Veal Collops. Fillet of Veal, roasted. Ressoles. Un vol au vent. Breast of bo à la financier. Epergne. Lamb. Bæuf bouilli. Vermicelli Soup. SECOND COURSE. Roast Fowl. Prawns. Italian Cheese. A Paulinta. Epergne. Omelet. Cacamel Cream. Lobsters. Roast Teal. BILLS OF FARE. TABLE II. FIRST COURSE. Soup à la Raine. removed with a Turkey, with Chesnuts and Sausages. Petit Pâtés Two Sweetbreads, of larded, and white Oysters. Collops. Ham braised, A Matelot of and Spinage. Eels. Semels, Fillets of Fowl, larded, and Sauce piquant. Asparagus Peas. Sirloin of Beef. SECOND COURSE. Two Easterlings. French Beans, with Sauce. Maccaroni. Gooseberry - Chantille Apple and · Pie. Cake. Barberry Pie. An Omelet. Cardoons with brown Sauce. Six Snipes. and MARCH ARTICLES IN SEASON IN MARCH. Meat.-Beef, mutton, veal, house-lamb, pork. Poultry and Game.-Turkeys, fowls, pullets, ca- pons, chickens, ducklings, tame rabbits, pigeons. Fish.—Turbot, thornback, carp, skate, tench, 68 ART OF COOKERY. mullets, eels, whitings, soles, founders, plaice, bream, barbel, mackerel, dace, bleak, roach, crabs, prawns, lobsters, crayfish, and oysters. Vegetables.-Carrots, potatoes, turnips, parsnips, Jerusalem artichokes, garlic, onions, shalots, cole- worts, borecole, cabbages, savoys, spinage, broccoli, beets, cardoons, parsley, fennel, celery, endive, tansey, mushrooms, lettuces, chives, cresses, mus- tard, rape, radishes, turnips, tarragon, mint, burnet, thyme, winter savory, pot marjoram, cucumbers, and kidney-beans. Fruit.-Golden pippins, rennetings, love, pear- main, and John apples, the bon-chretien and double- blossom pear, oranges and forced strawberries. TABLE I. FIRST COURSE. Soup Santé. removed with a TURKEY. Harricot of Mutton. Tongue. Chicken. Calves' Head. Sweetbread. Beef Olives. Oyster Pâtés. removed with Rice SOUP. SECOND COURSE. Guinea Fowl. Mushroom Loaves. Mince Pies. Marrow Pudding. Fricasseed Rabbits. Pigeons in savoury Jellies. Prawns. Almond Tarts. Ducklings. Escalloped Oysters rs. BILLS OF FARE. TABLE II. FIRST COURSE. Italian Soup. removed with Fisu. removed with a FILLET OF VEAL. Sweetbreads larded, Lamb Cutlets, glazed, and an Emince. and Sauce à la Reine. A Fillet of Pork, A Turkey, with Robart Sauce. Chesnuts and Sausages, Saddle of Lamb, Neck of Mutton, and Chervil Sauce. with haricot Beans. Neck of Veal, A Ham braised, à la Beshemell. and brown Sauce. Leg of Lamb, and Risoles. French Beans. Tenderones of Three Breasts of Veal, Chicken, larded, and and Truffles. Asparagus Peas. Mock Turtle. removed with Fish, removed with a Chine OF MUTTON. SECOND COURSE. Four Woodcocks. Jelly au Marbre. Mushrooms, French Beans. with white Sauce. Larks. Four Pigeons. Damson Tourte. Jelly. Artichoke Bottoms, Lobster au Gratin. fried in Batter. Orange Souffle. Prawns. A Capon. Pastry. ART OF COOKERY. APRIL ARTICLES IN SEASON IN APRIL. Meat.-Beef, mutton, veal, lamb. Poultry, &c.—Pullets, fowls, chickens, ducklings, pigeons, rabbits, leverets. Fish.-Carp, chub, tench, trout, cray-fish, salmon, turbot, soles, skate, mullets, smelts, herrings, crabs, lobsters, prawns. Vegetables.-Coleworts, sprouts, broccoli, spi- nach, fennel, parsley, chervil, young onions, celery, endive, sorrel, burnet, tarrogan, radishes, lettuces, small salad, thyme, all sorts of pot-herbs. Fruit.--Apples, pears, forced cherries and aprı- cots for tarts. BILLS OF FARE. TABLE I. FIRST COURSE. Mock Turtle, removed with Loin of VEAL. Crockets. Petit Patés. Tenderones of Lambs' Feet, and Veal and Truffles. Asparagus Peas. Two necks of Lamb, à la Chevaux de Frize. A Sucking Pig. Matelot of Tench. Pike baked and forced. Calves' Ears forced, Lamb Cutlets, glazed, and an eminence de Poulard. and white Italian Sauce. Mock Turtle, Mock Turtle, removed with a removed with a raised French Pie. raised Pigeon Pie. Westphalia Ham braised, Fillet of Veal, and Sauce. à la Daube. Charterure of Roots, Casserol of Rice, and Sausages. and Rabbits. Fricandeau, Fillets of Fowl, larded, and Sorrel. and Mushrooms. Four large Perch, Matelot of Carp, plain boiled. and Eels. Small Mutton Pies. Risoles. Mock Turtle, removed with a SIRLOIN OF BEEF. ART OF COOKERY. SECOND COURSE. A Pea Fowl. Pastry. Prawns. French Beans, Asparagus. à la Crême. Small Omelets." Dressed Crab. Two Ducklings. Four Woodcocks. Mushroom Fritters, Rice Fritters, with Custard. glazed. Lobster. Cray-fish. Cederata Crême. Jelly au Marbre. Two Chickens, Two Rabbits. one larded. Apple and Rhenish Crême. Barberry Tourte. Vressed Lobster. Small Omelets. Plovers’ Eggs. Dutch Salad. Cray-fish. Pastry. A Goose. Two removes for top and bottom. Two ditto for the flanks. Ratifie Pudding. Fondue in a Case. A Ginger Souffle. A Genoa Toast. BILLS OF FARE. TABLE II. SINGLE COURSE. Turtle. Remove, Fish. Raised Pie. Chartreuse. Nut of Veal. Potatoes. Remove, French Beans. Boiled Fowls. Remove, Rabbits. Italian Crême. Haricot of Mutton. Pigeon, stewed. Custard. Tongue. Remove, Sweetbreads. Potatoes. Remove, Frame. Peas. Ham. Pâtés. Raised Pie. Turtle. Remove, Mutton. MAY. ARTICLES IN SEASON IN MAY. Meat.-Beef, mutton, veal, lamb. Poultry, 80.-Pullets, fowls, chickens, green geese, ducklings, turkey poults, rabbits, leverets. Fish.—Carp, tench, eels, trout, chub, salmon, soles, turbot, herrings, smelts, lobsters, cray-fish, crabs, prawns. Vegetables, &c.—Early potatoes, carrots, turnips, radishes, early cabbages, cauliflowers, artichokes, spinach, parsley, sorrel, barley, mint, purslane, fennel, lettuces, cresses, mustard, all sorts of salad, herbs, thyme, savory, all other sweet herbs, peas, beans, asparagus, tragopogon, cucumbers, &c. Fruit.-Pears, apples, strawberries, cherries, melons, green apricots, currants for tarts, and gooseberries. 74 ART OF COOKERY. TABLE I. FIRST COURSE. Salmon broiled, with Smelts round. Rabbits with Onions. Veal Olives. Collared Mutton. Pigeon Pie raised. Vermicelli Soup. Macaroni Tart. Ox Palates. Patés. Matelot of Tame Duck. Chine of Lamb. SECOND COURSE. Fricasseed Chicken. Asparagus. Custards. Cocks' Combs. Green Gooseberry Tarts. Green Apricot Tarts. Epergne. Lamb Cutlets. Blancmange. Stewed Celery. Green Goose. TABLE II. FIRST COURSE. A Tureen of Ox Rumps, removed with Fish. A Currie of Rabbit, A Souties of Fowl, and Rice. and Truffles. Fillet of Veal. A Breast of Lamb, glazed, A raised Pie, with . and Spinach. Mutton and Potatoes. A Chine of Mutton. BILLS OF FARE. SECOND COURSE. A Capon. Mushrooms. Broccoli, and White Sauce. Gooseberry Pie. Plovers' Eggs. Rhubard Pie. French Beans. Prawns. Two Ducklings. JUNE. ARTICLES IN SEASON IN JUNE. Meat.-Beef, mutton, veal, lamb, buck venison. Poultry, 80.-Fowls, pullets, chickens, green geese, ducklings, turkey poults, plovers, wheat-ears, leverets, rabbits. Fish.Trout, carp, tench, pike, eels, salmon, soles, turbot, mullets, mackerel, herrings, smelts, lobsters, cray-fish, prawns. Vegetables, &c.- Carrots, turnips, potatoes, pars- nips, radishes, onions, beans, pease, asparagus, kidney-beans, artichokes, cucumbers, lettuce, spinach, parsley, purslane, rape, cresses, all other small salading, thyme, all sorts of pot-herbs. Fruit.-Cherries, strawberries, gooseberries, cur- rants, masculine, apricots, pears, apples, some peaches, nectarines, grapes, melons, pine apples. II 2 76 ART OF COOKERY. TABJ.E I. SINGLE COURSF. Stewed Carrots thick round Savoy Cake Fish, removed with Venison. Fruit Tart. Two Turkey Poults. Blancmange. Mock Turtle Soup. Haricot. Sweetbreads larded. Mashed Turnips. • Spinach. Jerusalem Artichokes, fricasseed. Dried Salmon, Cray-fish. in papers. Macaroni Pudding. Ham, Trifle. Chickens. braised large. French Pie. Casserole of Rice, with Giblets. Picked Crab. Stewed Celery. Sea Kale. Young Sprouts. Apple Pie and Custard. Fricandeau. Ox Rumps, and Spanish Onions. Rich White Soup. Jelly Form. Cheesecakes. Fish, removed with a LOIN OF VEAL. arge. BILLS OF FARE. TABLE II. FIRST COURSE. Green Pea Soup. reinoved with a Chine of LAMB, and Cucumber Sauce. Two Ducklings A matelot of boned à la Broche, Rabbit with and Ravigot Sauce. Mushrooms, &c. A raised Pie, with à la Broche. with a Neat's Pigeons. Tongue, &c. A Chump of Veal Mutton Cutlets and Stewed Peas. Riblette. A Loin of Veal. A Raised Pie, Sturgeon SECOND COURSE. Two Turkey Poults, One Larded. Spinach and Croutons. French Beans. A Trifle, Asparagus. An Omelet. Six Pigeons. JULY. ARTICLES IN SEASON IN JULY. Meat.-Beef, mutton, veal, lamb, buck venison. Poultry, &c.—The same as last month; with young partridges, pheasants, and wild ducks, called flappers or moulters. Fish.-Cod, haddocks, mullets, mackerel, her- rings, soles, plaice, flounders, skate, thornback, A 3 78 ART OF COOKERY. salmon, carp, tench, pike, eels, lobsters, prawns, shrimps, crayfish, and sturgeon. Vegetables.-Carrots, turnips, potatoes, cabbages, sprouts, artichokes, celery, radishes, endive, onions, garlic, finocha, chervil, sorrel, purslane, lettuce, cresses, and all sorts of salad-herbs, rocombole, scorzonera, salsifie, mushrooms, cauliflowers, mint, balm, thyme, and all other pot-herbs, pease of various kinds, kidney-beans, cucumbers. Fruit.-Musk-melons, wood-strawberries, cur- rants, gooseberries, raspberries, red and white jen- nettings, and several early apples and pears, morella and other cherries, peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, figs, and grapes.' Walnuts in high season to pickle, and rock samphire. The fruit yet lasting of last year is the deunans, winter russet- ings, and some oranges. TABLE I. FIRST COURSE. . Soup à la Reine. Civet of Hare, Lamb Cutlets. Calves' Feet en Marinade. Macaroni. Loin of Veal, roasted. SECOND COURSE. Roast Pheasant. Fried Artichokes. Stewed Peas. White Broccoli. Apple Pie, creamed. Neck of Lamb, roasted. BILLS OF FARE. TABLE II. FIRST COURSE. Soup à la Flamond, removed with a Fawn, with a piquant Sauce. Calves' Feet, Small à l'Espagnole. Mutton Pies. Three Chicken, Two Ducks, à la Reine. à l’Italienne. Breast of Veal, Neck of Mutton, and Peas. à la Jardiner. Haunch of Lamb, Fillet of Veal, larded, Frame. à la Daube, and Cucumber. &c. Beef Olives, and Mutton Cutlets, Scooped Potatoes. à la Maintenon. Compote of Neat's Tongue in Pigeons, Cutlets, and &c. stewed Greens. Small raised Pie, Casserole of Rice with Beef Steaks. and Rabbit. Soup, removed with a Chine of Mutton. ART OF COOKERY. SECOND COURSE. Two Ducklings. Spinach and Croutons. Stewed Peas. Preserves. Pastry. Mushrooms. Cauliflower. Ragout Mellé. Fondue in a Case. Four Sweetbreads. Frame. Shoulder of Lamb. An Omelet of Peths au Gratin. Asparagus. Small Puddings. Artlets of Livers. Pastry. Preserves. Peas, plain. French Beans. Two Chicken. AUGUST. ARTICLES IN SEASON IN AUGUST. Meat.-Beef, mutton, veal, lamb, buck venison. Poultry, 80.-Green geese, turkey-poults, duck- lings, pullets, fowls, chicken, leverets, rabbits, pigeons, young pheasants, wild ducks, wheat-ears, plovers. Fish.-Cod, haddock, plaice, skate, founders, thornback, mullets, mackerel, eels, herrings, pike and card, trout, turbot, soles, grigs, salmon, stur- geon, chub, lobsters, crabs, crayfish, prawns, oysters, and shrimps. Vegetables,Beans and peas of various kinds, cabbages, sprouts, cauliflowers, artichokes, cabbage- lettuce, beets, carrots, potatoes, turnips, kidney beans, all sorts of kitchen herbs, radishes, horse- radish, cucumbers, cresses, and small salad, onions, garlic, shalots, rocomboles, mushrooms, celery, endive, finocha, cucumbers for pickling. BILLS OF FARE. 81 Fruit.—Gooseberries, raspberries, currants, figs, mulberries, filherts, apples, bergamot, Windsor, and other pears; Bordeaux and other peaches, necta- rines, plum, cluster, muscadine, and Cornelian grapes, melons and pine-apples. TABLE I. FIRST COURSE. Cod's Head. Breast of Lamb, with celery. Potatoes. Ducks. Fillet of Beef, larded and glazed. Salmon. Roast Pullet. Cauliflower. Pigeon Pie. SECOND COURSE. Larded Fowl. Orange Puffs. Jelly with Peaches. Stewed Mushrooms, Peas. Sturgeon. stewed white. Almond Custard. Apple Puffs. Ribs of Lamb. ART OF COOKERY. TABLE II. FIRST COURSE. Soup Santé, removed with a Haunch of VENISON. Calves' Feet au Breast of Lamb Gratin, and Italian grilled, and sauce. cucumbers. Leg of Lamb. Ham and Three boiled, and Chicken, beans. spinach. à la Reine. Sheep's Rumps and Matelot of Rabbit. Kidneys, and Rice.. Sirloin of Beef. SECOND COURSE. Two Turkey Poults. Ragout Mellé. Pease. Ratifie Pudding Picked Crab. French Beans. Ham and Toast. Crayfish. Chantillie Cake. Two Rabbits. BILLS OF FARE. 83 SEPTEMBER. ARTICLES IN SEASON IN SEPTEMBER. Meat.-Beef, mutton, lamb, veal, pork, buck venison. Poultry, &c.—Geese, turkeys, teal pigeons, larks, pullets, fowls, hares, rabbits, chicken, ducks, pheasants, partridges. Fish.—Cod, haddock, Aounders, plaice, thorn- backs, skate, soles, salmon, carp, tench, pike, lobs- ters, oysters. Vegetables.-Carrots, turnips, potatoes, shalots, onions, leeks, garlic, scorzonera, salsifie, peas, beans, kidney-beans, mushrooms, artichokes, cab- bage, sprouts, cauliflowers, cardoons, endive, celery, parsley, finocha, lettuces and small salad, chervil, sorrel, thyme, and all sorts of soup herbs. Fruit.—Peaches, plums, apples, pears, grapes, walnuts, filberts, hazel nuts, medlars, quinces, lazaroles, currants, morella cherries, melons, pine- apples. TABLE I. FIRST COURSE. Fish. Boiled Chicken. Lamb. Veal Collops. Oyster Loaves. Soup. Small Timbales. Haricot of Mutton. Roast Beef. Nut Ham. Fish. SECOND COURSE. Wild Fowls. Peas. Cheesecakes. Lobsters. Almond Cake. Italian Basket. Gateau Millefeuille. Crayfish. Tartlets. Fried Artichokes. Partridges. ART OF COOKERY. TABLE II. FIRST COURSE. Soup à la Flamond. removed with a Neck of Venison. Three Sweetbreads, Salmie of larded, and Partridges. sorrel sauce. Neck of Venison, roasted. A Fowl à la Ox Rumps Bechemel. and Roots. Loin of Veal. "SECOND COURSE. Six Pigeons. Ragout Mellé. Macaroni. A Damson Pie. Spinach and Croutons. Poultry Livers. Shoulder of Lamb. BILLS OF FARE, 85 OCTOBER ARTICLES IN SEASON IN OCTOBER. Meat.-Beef, mutton, lamb, veal, pork, doe venison. Poultry, 8c.-Geese, turkeys, pigeons, pullets, fowls, chicken, rabbits, wild ducks, teal, widgeons, woodcocks, snipes, larks, dotterels, hares, pheasants, partridges. Fish.—Dorees, holibets, bearbet, smelts, brills, gudgeons, pike, carp, tench, perch, salmon trout, lobsters, cockles, muscles, oysters. Vegetables.--Cabbages, sprouts, caulifowers, artichokes, carrots, parsnips, turnips, potatoes, skirrets, salsifie, scorzonera, leeks, shalots, garlic, rocombole, celery, endive, cardoons, chervil, finocha, chard, beets, corn salad, lettuce, all sorts of young salad, thyme, savoury, all sorts of pot herbs. Fruit.—Peaches, grapes, figs, medlars, services, quinces, black and white bullace, walnuts, filberts, hazel nuts, pears, apples. TABLE 1. FIRST COURSE. Mock Turtle, removed with Sweetbrcad à la Dauphine. Mutton Chops, Lamb Cutlets. à la Maintenon. Haricot of Venison. Fricandeau of Veal. Fricassée of Larks. Pigs' Ears. Rump of Beef. removed with Rice Soup. BILLS OF FARE. NOVEMBER. ARTICLES IN SEASON IN NOVEMBER. Meat.-Beef, mutton, veal, house-lamb, doe venison. Poultry.-Geese, turkeys, fowl, chicken, pullets, pigeons, woodcocks, snipes, larks, wild ducks, teal, widgeons, hares, rabbits, dotterels, partridges, phea- sants. Fish.—Gurnets, dorees, salmon, trout, smelts, gudgeons, lobsters, holibets, bearbet, salmon, carp, pike, tench, oysters, cockles, muscles. Vegetables.-Cauliflowers in the green-house, and some artichokes, carrots, parsnips, turnips, beets, skirret, scorzonera, horseradish, potatoes, onions, garlic, shalots, rocombole, celery, parsley, sorrel, thyme, savoury, sweet marjoram, dry and early cabbages and their sprouts, savoy cabbage, spinach, late cucumbers, hot-herbs on the hot-bed, burnet, cabbage, lettuce, endive, blanched Jerusalem arti- chokes, and all sorts of pot-herbs. Fruit.-Bullace, medlars, walnuts, hazel nuts, chestnuts, pears, apples, services, grapes, oranges. TABLE I. FIRST COURSE. A Tureen of Mutton and Broth, with Roots, removed with a Loin of Veal, à la Bechemel. Fillets of Hare, larded, Beef Collops, and small onions. à l'Espagnole. A Ham braised, and greens. A Fricassée of Chicken, A Salmie of and Mushrooms. Plover, &c. Chine of Mutton. I 2 88 ART OF COOKERY. SECOND COURSE. Two Chicken. Brocoli, and Salsifie, Italian Sauce. fried, &c. Apple Pie. Peths. Crayfish au Gratin. Six Pigeons. TABLE II. SINGLE COURSE. Salmon Trout. Apple Tarts. Custards. Greens. Boiled Fowl. Ham. Roast Fowl. Spinach. Mince Pies. Damson Tarts. Hare. DECEMBER. ARTICLES IN SEASON IN DECEMBER. Meat.-—Beef, mutton, veal, house-lamb, pork, doe venison. Poultry, &c.—Geese, turkies, pullets, pigeons, capons, fowls, hares, chicken, rabbits, woodcocks, snipes, larks, wild ducks, teal, widgeons, dotterels, partridges, pheasants. Vegetables.-Many sorts of cabbages and savoys, spinach, and some cauliflowers in the conservatory, and artichokes in the sand; roots as in last month : small salading in hot-beds; also mint, tarragon, and cabbage lettuce under glasses; chervil, celery, and endive blanched ; sage, thyme, savoury, beet- leaves, tops of young beets, parsley, sorrel, spinach, BILLS OF FARE. 89 leeks and sweet marjoram, marigold flowers, and mint dried ; asparagus on the hot-bed, and cucum- bers on the plants sown in July and August; onions, shalots, and rocombole. Fruit.-Apples, pears, medlars, chesnuts, wal- nuts, services, grapes, hazel nuts, and oranges TABLE I. FIRST COURSE. Two Rice Soup, removed with a Loin of VEAL. Beef Steaks, and Oyster Sauce. Salmon and A Tongue, Fillets of Chicken à and greens. Soles, fried. la Rein. Matelot of Tench, Breast of Lamb &c. grilled, &c. A Chine of Mutton. SECOND COURSE. Four Partridges. Spinach and Eggs, Mushrooms. : poached. Apricot Tartlets. Blancmange. A Charlotte. Macaroni. Escaloped Oysters. A Hare. 13 ART OF COOKERY. TABLE II. FIRST COURSE. Fish, removed with Soup à la Reine. Boiled Chicken. Roasted Pigeons Haricot. Stewed Soles. Cods' Sounds. Chicken Pie. Semelé of Veal, An Emince of Lamb, and Shalot Sauce. and Blade Bone, grilled. Brocoli. Salad. Mock Turtle. Boiled Turkey. Small Ham. Sprouts. Spinach. A Souties of Mutton, Sweetbreads. and Poivrade Sauce. Tongue and Udder. Escaloped Oysters. Ox Palates. Beef Olives. Stewed Ducks. Fricasséed Rabbits Soup Santé, removed with a Haunch of VENISON. DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. 91 DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. The carving-knife should be light, of a middling size, and should have a fine edge. Strength is less required than address in the manner of using it; and to facilitate this the cook should give orders to the butcher to divide the joints of the bones of all carcass-joints of mutton, lamb, and veal (such as neck, breast, and loin); which may then be easily cut into thin slices attached to the adjoining bones. If the whole of the meat belonging to each bone should be too thick, a small slice may be taken off between every two bones. The more fleshy joints (as fillet of veal, leg or saddle of mutton, and beef) are to be helped in thin slices, neatly cut and smooth ; observing to let the knife pass down to the bone in the mutton and beef joints. The dish should not be too far off the carver ; as it gives an awkward appearance, and makes the task more difficult. Attention is to be paid to help every one to a part of such articles as are consi- dered the best. In helping fish, take care not to break the flakes ; which in cod and very fresh salmon are large, and contribute much to the beauty of its appearance. A fish-knife, not being sharp, divides it best on this account. Help a part of the roe, milt, or liver to each person. The heads of carp, part of those of cod and salmon, sounds of cod, and fins of turbot, are likewise esteemed niceties, and are to be at- tended to accordingly. In cutting up any wild-fowl, duck, goose, or turkey, for a large party, if you cut the slices down from pinion to pinion, without making wings, there will be more prime pieces. 92 ART OF COOKERY. A Cod's Head. Fish in general requires very little carving. A cod's head and shoulders, when in season, and pro- perly boiled, is a very genteel and handsome dish, When cut, it should be done with a fish slice, and the parts about the back-bone on the shoulders are the most firm and the best. Cut a piece quite off down to the bone, observing with each piece to help a part of the sound. There are several delicate parts about the head ; the jelly part lies about the jaw bone, and is by some es- teemed very fine, and the firm parts will be found within the head. Edge-bone of Beef. Cut off a slice an inch thick all the length. The soft fat which resembles marrow lies at the back of the bone; the firm fat must be cut in horizontal slices at the edge of the meat. It is proper to ask which is preferred, as tastes differ. The skewer that keeps the meat together should be drawn out before it is served up; or, if it is necessary to leave the skewer in, put a silver one. Sirloin of Beef May bi begun either at the end, or by cutting into the middle. It is usual to inquire whether the out- side or the inside is preferred. For the outside the slice should be cut down to the bones; and the same with every following helping. Slice the inside likewise, and give with each piece some of the soft fat. Round or Buttock of Beef Is cut in the same way as fillet of veal, in the next DIRECTIONS FOR CARTING. 93 article. It should be kept even all over. When helping the fat, observe not to hack it, but cut it smooth. A deep slice should be cut off the beef before you begin to help, as directed above for the edge-bone. Fillet of Veal. In an ox this part is round of beef. Ask whether the brown outside be liked, otherwise help the next slice. The bone is taken out, and the meat tied close, before dressing; which makes the fillet very solid. It should be cut thin and very smooth. A stuffing is put into the flap,which completely covers it; you must cut deep into this, and help a thin slice, as likewise of fat. From carelessness in not covering the latter with paper, it is sometimes dried up, to the great disappointment of the carver. Breast of Veal. One part (which is called the brisket) is thickest, and has gristle; put your knife about four inches from the edge of this, and cut through it, which will separate the ribs from the brisket. Ask which is chosen, and help accordingly. Culf's Head. Cut out slices, observing to pass your knife close into the bone; at the thick part of the neck, is situated the sweet-bread, which you should carve a slice of with the other part, that your guests may have a portion of each. If the eye is preferred, which is frequently the case, take it out, cut it in two, and send one half to the person who prefers it, and on removing the jaw-bone, some lean will be found, if required. The palate, generally es- 94 ART OF COOKERY. teemed a peculiar delicacy, is situated under the head : this should be divided into small portions, and a part helped to each person. Shoulder of Mutton. Cut into the bone; the prime part of the fat lies in the outer edge, and must be thinly and smoothly sliced; when your company is large, and it becomes necessary to have more meat than can be cut as above directed, some very fine slices may be cut out on each side of the blade bone, but, ob- serve, the blade bone cannot be cut across. Leg of Mutton. A leg of wether mutton (which is the best fla, voured) may be known by a round lump of fat at the edge of the broadest part. The most deli- cate part is in the midway between the knuckle and farther end. Begin to help there, by cutting thin deep slices. If the outside is not fat enough, help some from the side of the broad end in slices to the bone. This part is most juicy; but many prefer the knuckle, which in fine mutton will be very tender, though dry. There are very fine slices in the back of the leg : turn it up, and cut the broad end; not in the direction you did the other side, but longwise. To cut out the cramp- bone, take hold of the shank with your left hand, and cut down to the thigh-bone; then pass the knife under the cramp-bone. A Fore Quarter of Lamb. Separate the shoulder from the breast and ribs, by passing the knife between them; keeping it to- wards you horizontally, to prevent cutting the meat DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. 95 too much off the bones. If grass lamb, the shoulder being large, put it into another dish. Squeeze the juice of half a Seville orange (or lemon) on the other part, and sprinkle a little salt and pepper. Then separate the gristly part from the ribs, and help either from that, or from the ribs, as may be chosen. Haunch of Venison. Let the carver pass his knife down to the bone, to let out the gravy; then turn the broad end of the haunch toward him, put in the knife, and cut as deep as he can to the end of the haunch; then help in thin slices, observing to give some fat to each person. There is more fat (which is a favour- ite part) on the left side than on the other : and those who help must take care to proportion it, as likewise the gravy, according to the number of the company. Haunch of Mutton Is the leg and part of the loin, cut so as to resem- ble haunch of venison, and is to be helped at table in the same manner. Saddle of Mutton. Cut long thin slices from the tail to the end, be- ginning close to the back-bone. If a large joint, the slice may be divided. Cut some fat from the sides. Нат. The best method of helping ham is to begin in the middle by cutting long slices through the thick 96 ART OF COOKERY. fat. When made use for pies, the meat should be cut from the under side, after taking off a thick slice. Sucking Pig. The cook usually divides the body before it is sent to table, and garnishes the dish with the jaws and ears. The first thing is to separate a shoulder from the carcass on one side, and then the leg. The ribs are afterwards to be divided into about two helpings; and an ear or jaw presented with them, and plenty of sauce. The joints may either be divided into two each, or pieces may be cut from them. The ribs are reckoned the finest part ; but some people prefer the neck-end, between the shoulders. Goose. Separate the apron, and pour a glass of port wine into the body, and a little ready mixed mustard ; then cut the whole breast in long slices, but remove them only as you help them ; separate the leg from the body by putting the fork into the small end of the bone, pressing it to the body, and having passed the knife, turn the leg back. To take off the wing, put your fork into the small end of the pinion, and press it close to the body; then put in the knife, and divide the joint down. However, practice can alone render persons expert at this ; when you have thus taken off the leg and wing on one side, do the same by the other, if it be necessary, which will not be the case unless your company is large; by the wing there are two side bones, which may be taken off, as may the back and lower side bones; but the breast and the thighs, divided from the drum-sticks, afford the finest and most delicate pieces. DIRECTION FOR CARVING. 97 Hare. Pass the point of the knife under the shoulder, and cut all the way down to the rump on one side of the backbone, then repeat the same operation on the other side, which will divide the hare into three parts; then cut the back into four pieces, which, with the legs, is esteemed to be the most delicate part; the shoulder must be taken off in a circular line; this done, help your guests, observing to send each person some gravy and stuffing; the head should be divided into two parts, many persons being partial to it. Rabbits are generally carved in the same manner, only observing to cut the back in two pieces instead of four. A Fowl. A boiled fowl's legs are bent inwards, and tucked into the belly ; but before it is served, the skewers are to be removed. Lay the fowl on your plate ; and place the joints, as cut off, on the dish. Take off the wing, only dividing the joint with your knife ; and then with your fork lift up the pinion, and draw the wings towards the legs, and the muscles will separate in a more complete form than if cut. Slip the knife between the leg and body, and cut to the bone ; then with the fork turn the leg back, and the joint will give way if the bird is not old. When the four quarters are thus removed, take off the merry-thought and the neck-bones ; then lift up, and break it off from the part that sticks to the breast. The next thing is, to divide the breast from the carcass, by cutting through the ribs close to the breast, quite down to the tail. Then lay the back upwards, put your knife into the bone half-way from the neck to the rump, and on raising the lower end it will separate 98 ART OF COOKERY. readily. Turn the rump from you, and very neatly take off the two sidesmen, and the whole will be done. As each part is taken off, it should be turned neatly on the dish : and care should be taken that what is left goes properly from table. The breast and wings are looked upon as the best parts ; but the legs are most juicy, in young fowls. After all, more advantage will be gained by observing those who carve well, and a little practice, than by any written directions whatever. A Pheasant. The skewers must be taken out before the bird is served ; then fix your fork in the middle of the breast, divide it, and separate the leg from the body; then cut off the wing on the same side; do the same by the other side, and then slice the breast which you had previously divided; take off the merry- thought, by passing the knife under it towards the neck. Divide the other parts as in a fowl; but ob- serve, the breast, wings, and merry-thought are com- monly accounted to be the most delicate parts, but the leg has the finest flavour. Partridge. The skewers must be taken out before it is sent to table, and it is then to be carved in the same man- ner as a fowl. The wings, breast, and merry- thought are the primest parts. Pigeons Should be divided right in halves, either length- ways or across, and half helped to each person. DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING. 99 DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING. There are various reasons why the experienced and prudent housekeeper should be properly ac- quainted with this necessary preparation to the Art of Cookery. In London every article is generally trussed by the poulterer of whom it is bought; but it frequently happens that either from inexpe- rience or negligence of the servants, and want of knowledge in the cook, the article appears on the table with disgrace. Another very substantial reason for the cook having this knowledge is, that the families in which they serve are frequently where there are no poulterers, and consequently they are under the necessity of killing and trussing their own poultry. To be prepared, therefore, for the execu- tion of this business, we recommend a proper atten- tion to the following general rules : Be careful that all the stubs are perfectly taken out; and when you draw any kind of poultry, you must be very parti- cular to avoid breaking the gall, for should that happen, no means can be used to take away that bitterness, which will totally destroy the natural and proper taste of the article dressed. Great care should likewise be taken that you do not break the gut joining to the gizzard ; for, should this happen, the inside will be gritty, and the whole is spoiled. These are to be attended to as general matters. We shall proceed to particulars, beginning with Turkeys. Having properly picked your turkey, break the leg bone close to the foot, and draw out the strings from the thigh, for which purpose you must hang it 104776 K 2 100 ART OF COOKĒRY. on a hook fastened against the wall. Cut off the neck close to the back ; but be careful to leave the crop skin sufficiently long to turn over the back. Then proceed to take out the crop, and loosen the liver and gut at the throat end with your middle finger. Then cut off the vent, and take out the gut. Pull out the gizzard with a crooked, sharp-pointed iron, and the liver will soon follow; but be careful not to break the gall. Wipe the inside perfectly clean with a wet cloth; having done which, cut the breast- bone through on each side close to the back, and draw the legs close to the crops. Then put a cloth on the breast, and beat the high bone down with a rolling-pin till it lies flat. If the turkey is to be trussed for boiling, cut the legs off ; then put your middle finger into the inside, raise the skin of the legs, and put them under the apron of the turkey. Put a skewer into the joint of the wing and the middle joint of the leg, and run it through the body and the other leg and wing. The liver and gizzard must be put in the pinions; but be careful first to open the gizzard and take out the filth, and the gall of the liver. Then turn the small end of the pinion on the back, and tie a packthread over the ends of the legs to keep them in their places. If the turkey is to be roasted, leave the legs on, put a skewer in the joint of the wing, tuck the legs close up, and put the skewer through the middle of the legs and body. On the other side, put another skewer in at the small part of the leg. Put it close on the outside of the sidesman, and put the skewer through, and the same on the other side. Put the liver and gizzard between the pinions, and turn the point of the pinion on the back. Then put, close above the pinions, another skewer through the body of the turkey. If turkey-poults, they must be trussed as follows : take the neck from the head and body, but do not DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING. 101 remove the neck skin. They are drawn in the same manner as a turkey. Put a skewer through the joint of the pinion, tuck the legs close up, run the skewer through the middle of the leg, through the body, and so on the other side. Cut off the under part of the bill, twist the skin of the neck round, and put the head on the point of the skewer, with the bill-end forwards. Another skewer must be put in the sidesman, and the legs placed between the sidesman and apron on each side. Pass the skewer through all, and cut off the toe-nails. It is very common to lard them on the breast. The liver and gizzard may or may not be used, as you like. Fowls. When you have properly picked your fowls, cut off the neck close to the back. Then take out the crop, and with your middle finger loosen the liver and other matters. Cut off the vent, draw it clean, and beat the breast bone flat with the rolling-pin. If your fowl is to be boiled, cut off the nails of the feet, and tuck them down close to the legs. Put your finger into the inside, and raise the skin of the legs; then cut a hole in the top of the skin, and put the legs under. Put a skewer in the first joint of the pinion, bring the middle of the leg close to it, put the skewer through the middle of the leg, and through the body; and then do the same on the other side. Having opened the gizzard, take out the filth, and the gall out of the liver. Put the gizzard and the liver in the pinion, turn the points on the back, and tie a string over the tops of the legs to keep them in their proper place. If your fowl is to be roasted, put a skewer in the first joint of the pinion, and bring the middle of the leg close to it. Put the skewer through the middle of the K 3 102 ART OF COOKERY. leg, and through the body, and do the same on the other side. Put another skewer in the small of the leg, and through the sidesman; do the same on the other side, and then put another through the skin of the feet. You must not forget to cut off the nails of the feet. Chickens. With respect to picking and drawing, they must be dune in the same manner as fowls. If they are to be boiled, cut off the nails, give the sinews a nich on each side of the joint, put the feet in at the vent, and then peel the rump. Draw the skin tight over the legs, put a skewer in the first joint of the pinion, and bring the middle of the leg close. Put the skewer through the middle of the legs, and through the body, and do the same on the other side. Clean the gizzard, and take out the gall in the liver ; put them into the pinions, and turn the points on the back. If your chicken are to be roasted, cut off the feet, put a skewer in the first joint of the pinions, and bring the middle of the leg close. Run the skewer through the middle of the leg and through the body, and do the same on the other side. Put another skewer into the sides- man, put the legs between the apron and the sides- man, and run the skewer through. Having cleaned the liver and gizzard, put them in the pinions, turn the points on the back, and pull the breast skin over the neck. Geese. Having picked and stubbed your goose clean, cut the feet off at the joint, and the pinion off at the first joint. Then cut off the neck almost close to DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING. 103 e can the Il of th: Бате са cut oi the back; but leave the skin of the neck long enough to turn over the back. Pull out the throat, and tie a knot at the end. With your middle finger loosen the liver and other matters at the breast end, and cut it open between the vent and the rump. Having done this, draw out the entrails, excepting the soul. Wipe it out clean with a wet cloth, and beat the breast bone flat with a rolling- pin. Put a skewer into the wing, and draw the legs close up. Put the skewer through the middle of the leg, and through the body, and the same on the other side. Put another skewer in the small of the leg, tuck it close down to the sidesman, run it through, and do the same on the other side. Cut off the end of the vent, and make a hole large enough for the passage of the rump, as by that means it will much better keep in the seasoning. Ducks are trussed in the same manner, except that the feet must be left on, and turned close to the legs. s, and e other to be dle or me or sides sides cared Pigeons. When you have picked them, and cut off the neck close to the back, then take out the crop, cut off the vent, and draw out the guts and gizzard, but leave the liver, for a pigeon has no gall. If they are to be roasted, cut off the toes, cut a slit in one of the legs, and put the other through it. Draw the leg tight to the pinion, put a skewer through the pinions, legs, and body, and with the handle of the knife break the breast flat. Clean the gizzard, put it in one of the pinions, and turn the points on the back. If you intend to make a pie of them, you must cut the feet off at the joint, turn the legs, and stick them in the sides close to the pinions. If they are to be stewed or boiled, they must be done in the same manner. COM ine :04 ART OF COOKERY. Wild Fowl. Having picked them clean, cut off the neck close to the back, and with your middle finger loosen the liver and guts next the breast. Cut off the pinions at the first joint, then cut a slit between the vent and the rump, and draw them clean. Clean them properly with the long feathers on the wing, cut off the nails, and turn the feet close to the legs. Put a skewer in the pinion, pull the legs close to the breast, and run the skewer through the legs, body, and the other pinion. First cut off the vent, and then put the rump through it. The directions here given are to be followed in trussing every kind of wild fowl. Pheasants and Partridges. Having picked them very clean, cut a slit at the back of the neck, take out the crop, and loosen the liver and gut next the breast with your fore finger, then cut off the vent and draw them. Cut off the pinion at the first joint, and wipe out the inside with the pinion you have cut off. Beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin, put a skewer in the pinion, and bring the middle of the legs close. Then run the skewer through the legs, body, and the other pinion, twist the head, and put it on the end of the skewer, with the bill fronting the breast. Put another skewer into the sidesman, and put the legs close on each side the apron, and then run the skewer through all. If you would wish to make the pheasant (if it is a cock) have a pleasing ap- pearance on the table, leave the beautiful feathers on the head, and cover them gently with paper to prevent their being injured by the heat of the fire. You may likewise save the long feathers in the tail to stick in the rump when roasted. If they are DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING. 105 for boiling, put the legs in the same manner as in trussing a fowl. All kinds of moor game must be trussed in the same manner. Woodcocks and Snipes. As these birds are remarkably tender to pick, es- pecially if they should not happen to be quite fresh, the greatest care must be taken how you handle them; for even the heat of the hand will sometimes take off the skin, which will totally destroy the beautiful appearance of the bird. Having picked them clean, cut the pinions at the first joint, and with the handle of a knife beat the breast-bone flat. Turn the legs close to the thighs, and tie them together at the joints. Put the thigh close to the pinions, put a skewer into the pinions, and run it through the thighs, body, and the other pinion.- Skin the head, turn it, take out the eyes, and put the head on the point of the skewer, with the bill close to the breast. Reme.nber that these birds must never be drawn. Larks. When you have picked them properly, cut off their heads, and the pinions of the first joint. Beat the breast-bone flat, and turn the feet close to the legs, and put one into the other. Draw out the gizzard, and run a skewer through the middle of the bodies. Tie the skewer fast to the spit when you put them down to roast. Wheat-ears, and other small birds, must be done in the same manner. Hares. Having cut off the four legs at the first joint, 106 ART OF COOKERY. raise the skin of the back, and draw it over the hind legs. Leave the tail whole, draw the skin over the back, and slip out the fore legs. Cut the skin off the neck and head; but take care to leave the ears on, and mind to skin them. Take out the liver, lights, &c., and be sure to draw the gut out of the vent. Cut the sinews that lie under the hind legs, bring them up to the fore legs, put a skewer through the hind leg, then through the fore leg under the joint, run it through the body, and do the same on the other side. Put another skewer through the thick part of the hind legs and body, put the head between the shoulders, and run a skewer through to keep it in its place. Put a skewer in each ear to make them stand erect, and tie a string round the middle of the body over the legs, to keep them in their place. A young fawn must be trussed just in the same manner, except that the ears must be cut off. Rabbits must be cased much in the same man- ner as hares, only observing to cut off the ears close to the head. Cut open the vent, and slit the legs about an inch up on each side of the rump. Make the hind legs lie flat, and bring the ends to the fore-legs. Put a skewer into the hind-leg, then into the fore-leg, and through the body. Bring the head round, and put it on the skewer. If you want to roast two together, truss them at full length with six skewers run through them both, so that they may be properly fastened on the spit. THE VARIOUS JOINTS IN ANIMALS. 107 2 Rump BEEF. Hind Quarter. Fore Quarter. 1 Sirloin 11 Middle-rib, four ribs 12 Chuck, three ribs 3 Edge-bone 13 Shoulder, or leg of 4 Buttock mutton piece. 5 Mouse-buttock 14 Brisket 6 Veiny piece 15 Clod 7 Thick Hank 16 Neck, or sticking- 8 Thin flank piece 9 Leg 17 Shin 10 Fore-rib, five-ribs 18 Cheek, VENISON. 1 Haunch 3 Shoulder 2 Neck . 4 Breast VEAL I Loin, best end 6 Neck, best end 2 Loin, chump end 7 Neck, scrag end 3 Fillet 8 Blade-bone 4 Hind knuckle 9 Breast, best end 5 Fore knuckle 10 Breast, brisket end PORK. 1 The spare rib 4 Fore loin 2 Hand 5 Hind loin 3 Belly, or spring 6 Leg MUTTON 6 Neck 2 Loin, best end 7 Breast 3 Loin, chump end A chine is two 4 Neck, best end necks 5 Neck, scrag end A saddle is two loins 1 Leg 108 ART OF COOKERY. BOILED AND ROASTED MEATS, POULTRY, &c. General Observations on Boiling. In boiling butchers' meat, in general, allow a full quarter of an hour to every pound: a leg of pork, or of lamb, will require about twenty minutes, in the whole, above that allowance. Remember that all meat should be boiled as slowly as possible, but in plenty of water, which will make it rise and look plump. All fresh meat should be put in when the water boils, but salt meat when the water is warm.-If the latter has lain too long in salt, it should be put in with the water quite cold. Be careful that your pot constantly boils : other- wise you will be disappointed in dressing any joint, though it may have been a proper time over the fire. Also be particular in skimming it well; for from every thing a scum will arise, which, if boiled down again, will make the meat black. If the steam be kept in, the water will not lessen much; therefore, when you wish it to boil away, take off the cover of the saucepan. Boiling in a well-floured cloth will make meat look white. Vegetables must never be dressed with the meat, except carrots or parsnips with boiled beef. Poultry must be boiled by itself, and in a good deal of water. Skim the pot clean, or it will be of a bad colour. General Observations on Roasting. Meat, in general, requires about the same length of time to roast as to boil; namely, a quarter of an hour to a pound : but allowance must be made BOILED AND ROASTED MEATS, POULTRY, &c. 109 for the strength of the fire, the heat or coldness of the weather, &c. Always take care to let your fire be made in pro- portion to the piece you are to dress; that is, if it be a little or thin piece, make a small brisk fire, that it may be done quick and nice; but if a large joint, the fire must be in proportion, and let it be always clear at the bottom. Do not put salt on your meat before you lay it to the fire, as it will draw out the gravy. Old meat does not require so much roasting as young; for it should be eaten with more of the gravy in it. Meat, in general, should be placed at a good distance from the fire, and be brought gradually nearer when the inner part becomes hot, which will prevent its being scorched. Meat should be much basted; and, when nearly done, it should be floured, in order that it may have a frothy appearance. A very good method of basting is to put a little salt and water into the dripping-pan, and baste for a little while with it before using the meat's own fat, or dripping. When dry, dust it with flour, baste as usual; and, a little before it is done, sprinkle it with salt. This will greatly improve its flavour; and will cause the gravy to Aow on cutting. Large joints of beef, or of mutton, and always of veal, should have paper placed over the fat, to pre- serve it from being scorched. When it is nearly done, which you will know by the smoke drawing to the fire, take off the paper; then baste it well, and dredge it with flour to make it frothy. Be particular in letting pork, veal, and lamb be well done, otherwise they are unwholesome, and will nauseate; beef and mutton are the better for being rather underdone, unless the family prefer it the contrary. 110 ART OF COOKERY. · Remember to twist a piece of writing paper round the bone, at the knuckle of a ley or shoulder of lamb, mutton, or venison, when roasted, before they are served. Be careful to spit meat so as not to run the spit through the best parts; and observe that the spit is well cleaned before and at the time of serving, or a black stain will appear on the meat. In many joints the spit will pass along the bones for some distance, so as not to injure the prime of the meat. Spits should never be cleaned with any thing but sand and water, washed clean, and wiped with a dry cloth; for oil, brick-dust, and such things, will injure the meat. All poultry should be very carefully picked, every plug be removed, and the hair nicely singed off with white paper. Poultry should always be roasted with a clear brisk fire, and when they are frothy, and of a light brown colour, they are done enough. Great care must be taken not to overdo them, as the loss of gravy will impair the flavour. Tame fowls require more roasting than wild ones, and must be often basted, in order to keep up a strong froth, which will make them look well when placed on the table. Large poultry should be papered; but chicken, wild fowl, rabbits, &c., do not require it. Pigs and geese must be done with a quick fire, turned quick, and frequently basted. Hares and rabbits require time and care, other. wise the body will be done too much, and the ends too little. The best way to keep meat hot, should it be done before the required time, or should it be ne- cessary to wait for the arrival of company, is to take it up when done, set the dish over a pan of boiling water, put a deep cover over it so as not to BOILED AND ROASTED MEATS, POULTRY, &c. 111 touch the meat, and then tarow a cloth over that. This will not dry up the gravy. These General Observations applied. That professed cooks will find fault with my touching on a branch of cookery which they never thought worth their notice, is what I expect. How- ever, this I know, it is the most necessary part of it; and few servants know how to roast and boil to per- fection. . I shall begin with roast and boiled of all sorts, and the cook must order her fire according to what she is to dress. If any thing little or thin, then a brisk little fire, that it may be done quick and nice. If a very large joint, be sure a good fire be laid to cake: let it be clear at the bottom, and when the meat is half done, move the dripping-pan and spit a little from the fire, and stir up a brisk fire: for according to the goodness of the fire, your meat will be done soon or late. Beef. To roast a piece of beef of ten pounds, will take an hour and a half, at a good fire. Twenty pounds weight will take three hours, if it be a thick piece ; but if a thin piece of twenty pounds weight, two hours and a half will do it; and so on according to the weight of your meat, more or less. Observe, in frosty weather your beef will take half an hour longer. Be sure to paper the top, and baste it well, while roasting, and throw a handful of salt on it. When you see the steam draw to the fire, it is near enough; take off the paper, baste it well, and dredge it with a little flour to make a fine froth. Never salt roast meat before you lay it to the fire, for it draws out the gravy. If you would keep it a L 2 112 ART OF COOKERY. few days before you dress it, dry it with a cloth, and hang it where the air will come to it; be sure there is no damp place about it. When you take up your meat, garnish the dish with horse-radish. Round or Brisket of Beef. To boil either of these joints, follow the general directions, and serve with greens and carrots. To keep Beef. Take out the kernels in the neck pieces, where the shoulder-clod is taken off; two from each round of beef; one in the middle, which is called the pope's eye; the other from the flap: there is also one in the thick flank, in the middle of the fat. If these are not taken out, especially in the summer, salt will be of no use for keeping the meat sweet. There is another kernel between the rump and the edgebone. As the butchers seldom attend to this matter, the cook should take out the kernels; and then rub the salt well into such beef as is for boil- ing, and slightly sprinkle that which is for roasting, if in summer. Neat's Tongue. A dried tongue should be soaked over night; when you dress it, put it into cold water, and let it have room; it will take four or five hours A green tongue out of the pickle need not be soaked, but it will require nearly the same time. An hour before you dish it up, take it out and blanch it; then put it into the pot again till you want it; this will make it eat the tenderer. Mutton and Lamb. A leg of mutton of six pounds will take an hour at a quick fire; if frosty weather, an hour and a BOILED AND ROASTED MEATS, POULTRY, &c. 113 quarter : nine pounds an hour and a half : a leg of twelve pounds will take two hours; if frosty, two hours and a half. A large saddle of mutton three hours, because of papering it; a small saddle will take an hour and a half; and so on, according to the size : a breast half an hour, at a quick fire; a neck, if large, an hour; if very small, better than half an hour : a shoulder much the same time as a leg. In roasting of mutton, the loin, haunch, and saddle must be done as the beef above ; but all other sorts of mutton and lamb, must be roasted with a quick clear fire, and without paper; baste it when you lay it down; and just before you take it up, dredge it with a little flour; but be sure not to use too much, for that takes away all the fine flavour of the meat. Some choose to skin a loin of mutton, and roast it brown without paper; but that you may do just as you please ; but be sure always to take the skin off a breast of mutton. Leg of Mutton. Boil it according to the general directions, and serve with turnips and caper sauce. Or cut a leg of mutton venison fashion, and boil it in a cloth. Boil two fine cauliflowers in milk and water, cut them into sprigs, and stew them with butter, pepper, salt, and a little milk; stew some spinach, and put to it a quarter of a pint of gravy, with a piece of butter, and a little flour Put the mutton into a dish, the spinach round it, and the cauliflower over the whole. Melt the butter the cauliflower was stewed in, to a smooth cream, and pour it over. Leg of Lamb. Follow the general directions, and serve with stewed spinach and melted butter. 114 ART OF COOKERY. . Leg of Lamb, with the Loin fried round it. Boil the leg in a cloth, very white. Cut the loin in steaks, beat them, and fry them of a good brown ; after which stew them a little in strong gravy. Put your leg on the dish, and lay your steaks round it. Pour on your gravy, and put spinach and crisped parsley on every steak. Gar- nish with lemon, and serve with gooseberry sauce, or with stewed spinach and melted butter. Grass Lamb. Follow the general directions, and serve it with spinach, cabbage, broccoli, or any other suitable vegetable. Lamb's Head. Wash it clean, take the black from the eyes, and the gall from the liver. Lay it in warm water; boil the heart, lights, and part of the liver. Chop them, flour them, and put them into some gravy, with ketchup, a little pepper, salt, lemon-juice, and a spoonful of cream. Boil the head white, lay it in a dish, and the mince-meat round it. Place the other part of the liver, fried with small bits of bacon, on the mince-meat, and the brains fried in little cakes round the rim, with crisped parsley put between. Pour melted butter over the head; and garnish with lemon, Veal. Veal takes much the same time in roasting as pork. Be careful to roast your veal of a fine brown : if a large joint, a good fire; if small, a little brisk fire. If a fillet or loin, be sure to paper the fat, that you loose as little of that as pos- sible : lay it some distance from the fire, till it is soaked; then lay it near the fire. When you lay it BOILED AND ROASTED MEATS, POULTRY, &c. 115 lown, baste it well with good butter; and when it is near enough, baste it again, and drudge it with a little flour, The breast you must roast with the caul on till it is enough, and skewer the sweet- bread on the back side of the breast. When it is nigh enough, take off the caul, baste it, and drudge it with a little flour. Calf's Head. Soak it in water; clean it well, that it may look white; take out the tongue to salt, and the brains to make a separate dish. Boil the head tender, then strew it over with crumbs, and chopped parsley, and brown them. Bacon and greens to be served with it. The brains to be soaked in cold water, then boiled. Mix them with melted butter, scalded sage chopped, pepper and salt, and lay the tongue, which should be very tender, upon them in a dish. Pork. Pork must be well done, or it is apt to surfeit. When you roast a loin, take a sharp pen-knife and cut the skin across, to make the crackling eat the better. Cut the chine, and all pork that has the rind on. Roast a leg of pork thus : take a knife and score it; stuff the knuckle part with sage and onion, chopped fine with pepper and salt; or cut a hole under the twist, and put the sage, &c., there, and skewer it up with a skewer. Roast it crisp, because most people like the rind crisp, which they call crackling. Make apple sauce, and send up in a boat : then have a little drawn gravy to put in the dish. This they call a mock goose. The spring, or hand of pork, if young, roasted like a pig, eats very well, otherwise it is better boiled. The spare-rib should be basted with a bit of butter, 116 ART OF COOKERY. a little dust of flour, and some sage shred small · but we never make any sauce to it but apple. The best way to dress pork griskins is to roast them, baste them with a little butter and sage, and pepper and salt. Few eat any thing with these but mustard. Beef, mutton, and pork, may be basted with fine nice dripping. Be sure your fire be very good and brisk, but do not not lay your meat too near, for fear of burning or scorching. Pickled Pork. Wash and scrape it clean; boil it till the rind be tender; and serve with such greens as may be in season. Ley of Pork. Let it lie in salt for six or seven days; in boiling it, follow the general directions. Serve with pease- pudding, melted butter, greens, and carrots. Pig's Pettitoes. Boil them till they are quite tender. Also boil the heart, liver, and lights, but take them up when they have boiled ten minutes, and shred them small. Then take out the feet and split them; thicken your gravy with flour and butter, and put in your mince-meat, a spoonful of white wine, a slice of lemon, and a little salt, and give it a gentle boil. Beat the yolk of an egg; put to it two spoonfuls of cream, and a little grated nutmeg. Then put in the pettitoes, and shake the whole over the fire till it is quite hot, but do not let it boil. Put sippets into the dish, pour over the whole, and garnish with sliced lemon. BOILED AND ROASTED MEATS, POULTRY, &c. 117 Spare-rib must be basted with a very little butter and flour, and then sprinkled with dry sage crumbled. Apple- sauce and potatoes for roasted pork. Pork Griskin is usually very hard ; to prevent this, put it into as much cold water as will cover it, and let it boil up; then instantly take it off, and put it into a Dutch oven : a very few minutes will do it. Remember to rub butter over it, and then flour it, before yon put it to the fire. Lay it in a dish on melted but- ter and mustard. It should be seasoned with pep- per and salt before roasting. TD. To Roast a Pig. · If just killed, it will take an hour; if killed the day before, an hour and a quarter. If a very large one, an hour and a half. Spit the pig, and lay it to the fire, which must be a very good one at each end, or hang a flat iron in the middle of the grate. Before you lay the pig down, take a little sage shred small, a piece of butter as big as a walnut, and pepper and salt; put them in the pig, and sew it up with coarse thread; flour it well over, and keep flouring it till the eyes drop out, or you find the crackling hard. Be sure to save all the gravy that comes out of it, which you must do by setting basons or pans under the pig in the dripping pan, as soon as you find the gravy begins to run. When the pig is enough, stir the fire up brisk; take a coarse cloth, with about a quarter of a pound of butter in it, and rub the pig over till the crackling is crisp, then take it up. Lay it in a dish, and with a sharp knife cut off the head, then cut the pig in two, before you draw out the spit. Cut the ears 118 ART OF COOKERY. off the head, and lay them at each end; cut the under jaw in two, and lay on each side: melt some good butter, take the gravy you saved, and put in it, boil it, and pour it in the dish with the brains bruised fine and the sage mixed together, and then send it to table. Another way to Roast a Pig Chop sage and onion very fine, a few crumbs of bread, a little butter, pepper and salt, rolled up to- gether; put it in the belly, and sew it up: before you lay down the pig, rub it all over with sweet oil. When done, take a dry cloth, and wipe it, then put it in a dish, cut it up, and send it to table with the sauce as above. To Bake a Pig If you cannot roast a pig, lay it in a dish, flour it all over well and rub it over with butter, butter the dish you lay it in, and put it in the oven. When it is enough, draw it out of the oven's mouth and rub it over with a buttery cloth; then put it in the oven again till it is dry ; take it out and lay it in a dish; cut it up, take a little veal gravy ; and take off the fat in the dish it was baked in, and there will be some good gravy at the bottom; put that to it with a little piece of butter rolled in flour ; boil it up and put it in the dish with the brains and sage in the belly. Some love a pig brought whole to table, then you are only to put what sauce you like in the dish. Hind Quarter of a Pig, Lamb Fashion. When house-lamb bears a high price, the hind quarter of a large pig will be a good substitute for it. Take off the skin and roast it, and it will eat like lamb. Serve it with mint sauce or salad. Half an hour's roasting will be sufficient. BOILED AND ROASTED MEATS, POULTRY, &c. 119 Porker's Head. Take a fine young head, clean it well, and put bread and sage, as for pig; sew it up tight, and put it on a string or hanging jack; roast it as a pig, and serve in the same manner. Haunch of Venison. Attend to the weight of the haunch, remember- ing that, if it be doe, it will require a quarter of an hour less than buck. Venison should always be rather under than over done. Place your haunch on the spit, lay it over a large sheet of paper, and then a thin common paste, with a paper over that. Tie it fast, to keep the paste from dropping off; if the haunch be large, it will take four hours roasting. As soon as it is done, take off the paper and paste, dredge it well with flour, and baste it with butter. As soon as it is of a light brown, dish it, with brown gravy, or currant- jelly sauce. Serve with the same in a tureen. Haunch of Mutton, Venison Fashion. Cut it in the venison form ; keep it as long as possible, in the same manner as venison ; dress it also in the same manner, and serve with the same sauces. Or, having taken a fine leg, cut haunch fashion, lay it in a pan with the back side of it down, and pour a bottle of red wine oyer it, in which let it lie twenty-four hours. Spit it, roast it at a good quick fire, and baste it all the time with the same liquor and butter. Serve with good gravy, and sweet sauce, in separate tureens. A good fat neck of mutton done in this manner is very fine. Ham. A ham of twenty pounds will take four hours and a half to boil, and so in proportion for a larger or in a Tere 1 13 120 . ART OF COOKERY.. smaller size. An old large ham requires sixteen hours' soaking in a large tub of soft water; but a green one does not require any soaking. To dress Hams. Wrapped in a linen bag let it lie, either in a hole dug in the earth, or on stones sprinkled with water, two or three days, to mellow ; covering it with a heavy tub, to keep vermin from it. Wash and brush it well; put it into a boiler of water, and let it simmer from three hours and a half to five hours, according to its size. It is best to allow time enough, as it is easy to take up the ham when done, and keep it hot over boiling water, covered closely. Take off the skin as whole as you can, as it keeps the cold ham moist. Strew raspings over the ham, and garnish with carrot sliced. It should be care- fully pared, before boiling, to remove the rusty parts. If some cloves, bay and laurel leaves, and a bunch of herbs be boiled with a ham, it will have a fine flavour. If to be braised, cover it well with meat in slices, over and under, and put in roots and spices. Ham Baked. After soaking your ham, lay it in an earthen pan of convenient size ; with a little water at the bottom make a crust of barley flour to cover over the pan, and set in the oven. A ham of twenty pounds. will take about five hours in baking. Many consider this mode as most effectual in pre- serving the flavour of the ham. Ham, or Gammon of Bacon. Take off the skin, and lay it in lukewarm water for two or three hours. Then put it into a pan, pour upon it a bottle of white wine, and let it steep BOILED AND ROASTED MEATS, POULTRY, &c. 121 tes sites uter; but ? for ten or twelve minutes. When spitted, put sheets of paper over the fat side, pour the wine in which it was soaked into the dripping-pan, and baste it all the time it is roasting. When roasted enough, pull off the paper, and dredge it well with crumbled bread and parsley shred fine. Make the fire brisk, and brown it. If you serve it hot, gar- nish it with raspings of bread; but if cold, serve it with parsley. sprinkle ; coverie: it la rater, 27 alf to ht allow tin: hen done To boil a Tongue. A tongue, if soft, put in a pot over night, and do not let it boil till about three hours before din- ner, then hoil all that three hours : if fresh out of the pickle, two hours and a half, and put it in when the water boils. d closels it keeps the ham. be care he rust 25, and a I have a ell with pots and earthen at the er OTEL Hare. Having skinned it, let it be extremely well washed, and then soaked an hour or two in water; and if old, let it lie in vinegar, to make it tender; after which, wash it well again in water. A hare will take about an hour and a half to roast; make the following stuffing: about three handfuls of bread crumbs, one of beef suet, chopped very fine, a little lemon, thyme, and parsley, and two eggs; roll it up, and put it into the belly of the hare; cover the back of the hare with fat bacon, to keep it moist, and baste it very often. Serve with gravy in the dish, butter and currant jelly. Rabbits. In roasting, case them, baste them with butter, and dredge them with a little flour. Half an hour will do them at a very quick clear fire; and if very small, twenty ininutes will do them. Take the I wenty aking 3 pre- water pan, steep 122 ART OF COOKERY. livers, with a little bunch of parsley, and boil them, and then chop them very fine together. Melt some good butter, and put half the liver and parsley into the butter, pour it into the dish, and garnish the dish with the other half. Let the rabbits be done of a fine light brown. Rabbits may also be roasted hare fashion ; or the same as the above, with fried pork-sausages round the dish. For boiling, case them, skewer them with the head upright, the fore legs brought down, and the hind legs straight. Boil them at least three quar- ters of an hour, and smother them with onion sauce. Pull out the jaw-bones, stick them in the eyes, and serve them with a sprig of myrtle or barberries in the mouth. Instead of onion sauce, they may be served with parsley and butter. Or take the livers, which, when boiled, bruise with a spoon, very fine, and take out all the strings; put to this some good veal stock, a little parsley shred fine, and some barberries clean picked from the stalks ; season it with mace and nutmeg; thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a little white wine : let your sauce be of a good thickness, and pour it over your rabbits. Garnish them with lemons and barberries. Turkeys. For roasting, draw the sinews of the legs, twist the head under the wing; and, in drawing the bird, be careful not to tear the liver, nor let the gall touch it.-Use a stuffing of sausage-meat ; or, if sausages are to be served in the dish, a bread stuffing. As this makes a large addition to the size of the bird. observe that the heat of the fire must constantly be to that part; for the breast is often not done enough. A slip of paper should be put on the bone, BOILED AND ROASTED MEATS, POULTRY, &c. 123 to hinder it from scorching while the other parts roast. Baste it well, and froth it up. Serve with gravy in the dish, and bread sauce in a sauce- tureen. To boil a large turkey, with a force-meat in his crop, will take two hours; one without, an hour and a half; a hen turkey, three quarters of an hour. Turkeys should not be dressed till three or four days after they have been killed, as they will otherwise not boil white, neither will they eat ten- der. When you have plucked a turkey, draw it at the rump, cut off the legs, put the ends of the thighs into the body, and tie them with a string. Having cut off the head and neck, make a stuffing of bread, herbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon-peel, a few oysters, or an anchovy, a piece of butter, some suet, and an egg; put this into the crop, fasten up the skin, and boil the turkey in a floured cloth. Pour oyster sauce over it; make rich with butter, a little cream, and a spoon- ful of soy, if approved ; or liver and lemon sauce. Hen birds are best for boiling, and should be young. Goose. Roasted. After plucking and singeing carefully, let it be well washed and dried, and seasoning put in of onion, sage, and pepper and salt. Fasten it tight at the neck and rump; and put it first at a distance from the fire. Paper the breast-bone. Baste it very well ; and, when the breast is rising, take off the paper. Serve the bird before the breast falls, or it will be spoiled by coming flatted to table. Let a good gravy be sent in the dish. Some persons, before they cut the breast, cut off the apron, and pour into the body a glass of port M2 124 ART OF COOKERY. wine, and two tea-spoonfuls of mustard. Serve with potatoes, gravy, and apple sauce. A green goose should be served with gooseberry sauce. Boiled. After you have singed your goose, pour over it a quart of boiling milk. Let it continue in the milk all night ; then take it out, and dry it well with a cloth. Stuff it with sage and onion cut small, sew it up at the neck and vent, and let it hang up by the neck and vent till the next day. Put it into cold water, cover it close, and let it boil gently for an hour. Serve it up with onion sauce. Ducks. For roasting, prepare them the same as geese, with sage and onion. A good fire will roast them in about twenty minutes. Dress wild ducks in the same way. To boil. After scalding and drawing them, let them remain for a few minutes in warm water; then let them lie in an earthen pan, with a pint of boiling milk, for two or three hours ; take them out, dredge them with flour, put them in cold water, and cover them close. Having boiled them slowly for twenty minutes, smother them with onion sauce, and serve them hot. Fowls. For roasting, "put them down to a good fire ; singe, dust, and baste them well with butter. They must be near an hour roasting. Make gravy of the necks and gizzards, and, when strained, put in a spoonful of browning. Take up the fowls, pour some gravy into a dish, and serve them with egg sauce. For boiling, pluck and carefully draw them; cut off the head, neck, and legs. Skewer the ends of BOILED AND ROASTED MEATS, POULTRY, &c. 125 their legs in their bodies, and tie them. Singe and dust them with flour, put them into cold water, cover the pot close, and set it on the fire; but take it off as soon as the scum rises.-Cover them close again, and let them boil gently twenty minutes ; then take them off, and the heat of the water will do them sufficiently in half an hour. Melted but- ter and parsley is the usual sauce ; but you may serve them up with bechemel, or white sauce. Chickens. For roasting, the same as for fowls. A quarter of an hour will roast them; and, when they are done, froth them, and lay them on a dish. . Serve with parsley and butter poured over them. For boiling, draw them, lay them in skimmed milk two hours, and truss them. Singe them, dust them with flour, cover them close in cold water, and set them over a slow fire. Take off the scum, boil them slowly five or six minutes, take them off the fire, and keep them close covered for half an hour in the water, which will do them sufficiently, and make them plump and white. Before you dish them, set them on the fire to heat; drain them, and pour bechemel, or white sauce, over them. Pigeons. Before roasting, cleanse them thoroughly, in se- veral waters; and, after you have dried them, roll a lump of butter in chopped parsley, and season it with pepper and salt. Put this into the pigeons, and spit, dust, and baste them. A good fire will roast them in twenty minutes. Serve with parsley and butter, and peas or asparagus. In boiling draw your pigeons, take out the craw as clean as possible. Wash them in several waters, cut off the pinions, and turn the legs under the M 5 BOILED AND ROASTED MEATS, POULTRY, &c. 127 as soon as they are well hot through, they begin to lose their gravy, and, if not drawn off, will eat hard. A teal is done in little more than ten minutes. A rich brown gravy should be sent in the dish; and when the breast is cut into slices, before taking off the bone, a squeeze of lemon, with pepper and salt, is a great improvement to the flavour. To take off the fishy taste which wild fowl some- times have, put an onion, salt, and hot water into the dripping-pan, and baste them for the first ten minutes with this; then take away the pan, and baste constantly with butter. Woodcocks, Snipes, and Quails. These birds must never be drawn. Spit them on a small bird-spit; flour them, and baste them with butter; have ready a slice of bread toasted brown, which lay in a dish, and set it under your birds, for the trail to drop on. When they are enough, take them up, and lay them on the toast; put some good gravy in the dish, serve with butter, and gar- nish with orance or lemon. Ruffs and Rees. Draw them, and truss them cross-legged, as you do snipes, and spit them the same way ; lay them upon a buttered toast, pour good gravy into the dish, and serve them up quick. Plovers. Green plovers should be roasted in the same way as woodcocks, without drawing; and serve on a toast. Grey plovers may be either roasted or stewed with gravy, herbs, and spice. 128 ART OF COOKERY. BAKED MEATS, &c. Rump of Beef. Cut the bone out, beat the flesh with a rolling pin ; season with pepper, salt, and cloves, and lard the meat across. Put the beef into an earthen pan, with the broken bones, some butter, bay- leaves, whole pepper, one or two shalots, and sweet herbs; cover it close, and put it in the oven ; it will be done in six hours. Skim off the fat, dish the meat, and serve it with dried sippets and its own liquor. Leg of Beef Cut the meat off, and break the bones. Put all into an earthen pan, with two onions, and a bundle of sweet herbs, and season it with whole pepper, cloves, and a blade of mace. Cover it with water, tie the top close with brown paper, and put it in the oven. When done, skim off the fat, strain the liquor, pick out the fat and sinews, and put them into a saucepan with a little of the gravy and butter rolled in flour.-When thoroughly hot, pour it into the dish with the meat, and serve. Ox Cheek. This must be done in the same way. Should the liquor be too rich, it may be weakened with boiling water. Calf's Head. When properly cleaned, put it into a large earthen dish, and rub the inside with butter. Place EAKED MEATS, &c. 129 iron skewers across the top of the dish, and lay the head on them. Grate some nutmeg over the head, with sweet herbs shred small, crumbs of bread, and a little lemon-peel. Flour it, stick butter in the eyes, and on different parts of the head, and send it to the oven. Throw a little pepper and salt over it, and put into the dish a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, a blade of mace, some whole pepper, two cloves, and a pint of water, and boil the brains with sage. When done, lay it on a dish, before the fire; then mix the seasoning, and put it into a saucepan. When hot, strain it off, and put it again into the saucepan. Put into it butter rolled in flour, the brains and sage chopped fine, a spoonful of ketchup, and two of red wine. Boil the whole for a minute, pour it over the head, and serve hot. Pig. Lay your pig in a dish well buttered, flour it all over, rub some butter on it, and send it to the oven. When done, take it out, rub it over with a buttered cloth, and put it into the oven again till it is dry; then lay it in the dish, and cut it up. Take the fat from the dish it was baked in, and some gravy will remain at the bottom. Put this to a little veal gravy, with butter rolled in flour, and boil it up with the brains ; pour it into a dish, and mix it well with the sage that comes out of the belly. Serve with apple sauce. Shor Bullock's or Calf's Heart. Stuff it with crumbs of bread, chopped suet, sweet marjoram, lemon-peel, grated pepper, salt, nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg, and put it into the oven. When done, serve it up with gravy, melted butter, and currant jelly. The same methods must be observed whether baked or roasted. 130 ART OF COOKERY. BROILING. General Observations. The best general rule for the broiling of steaks, chops, &c., is to keep a clear fire, that the meat may be done with nicety, and have no ill taste. Grease the gridiron, to prevent the meat from burn- ing; turn it often and quickly, by which the juices will be retained, and its natural flavour preserved. Keep the dish quite warm while you broil, that the meat may be served as hot as possible. Broiled Hare. The flavour of broiled hare is exceedingly fine ; the legs or wings must be seasoned first; rub with cold butter, and serve very hot. The other parts, warmed with gravy, and a little stuffing, may be served separately. Beef Steaks. Have them cut from the rump, about half an inch thick ; broil on one side till brown : turn them, and, when the other side is brown also, lay them on a dish, with butter between each steak; sprinkle with pepper and salt, and let them stand two or three minutes ; slice a shalot thin into a spoonful of water; then lay on the steaks again, turn them till they are done; then put them in the dish, pour the shalot and water over them, garnish with horse-radish, and serve with potatoes. Mutton Steaks. Have them cut about half an inch thick; if from the loin, take off the skin and part of the fat. Lay on the steaks, and turn them quickly ; slant the gridiron to prevent the fat's dropping into the fire and smoking them. When done, put them on a BROILING. 131 hot dish, rub them with butter, slice a shalot into a spoonful of water, and pour on, with a spoonful of ketchup: serve hot, with horse-radish and pickles. Pork Chops. The same rules must be observed as for mutton chops, except that they require more doing. When done, add a little good gravy to them; and, in order to give them a pleasant flavour, strew over a little sage shred fine. Serve with potatoes. Beef Palates. After peeling your palates, put them into a stew- pan, with a bit of butter rolled in flour, salt, and pepper, two shalots, a clove of garlic, two cloves, parsley, a laurel-leaf, thyme, and as much milk as will simmer them till tender. When done, take them out, and rub over them the yolks of eggs with bread crumbs ; boil them slowly, and, when enough, serve with piquant sauce. Pigeons. These may be boiled whole or split, over a clear fire. If whole, shred some parsley fine, with a piece of butter, pepper, and salt, and put into their bellies, tying both ends. If you split them, season the inside with pepper and salt; and, when done, serve with parsley and butter poured over them. Chicken. Slit your chicken down the back, season them with pepper and salt, and lay them on a gridiron over a clear fire, and at a great distance. Let the insides continue next the fire till about half done ; then turn them, taking care that the fleshy sides 132 ART OF COOKERY. do not burn, and broil them till of a fine brown. Have ready gravy sauce, with mushrooms; and garnish with lemon, and the livers broiled ; the gizzards cut, slashed, and broiled, with pepper and salt; or with the following sauce: take a handful of sorrel, and dip it in boiling water; then drain it, and have ready half a pint of good gravy, a shalot shred small, and some parsley boiled; thicken it with butter rolled in flour, and add a glass of red wine ; then lay your sorrel in heaps round the chicken, and pour the sauce over them, . Eggs. Put a salamander into the fire; then cut a slice of bread, toast it brown, butter it, lay it in a dish, and set it before the fire ; poach six or seven eggs just enough to set the whites, take them out care- fully, and lay them on your toast : brown them with the salamander, grate some nutmeg, and squeeze a Seville orange over. Garnish with orange sliced. FRYING. Beef Steaks. Fry your steaks in butter, over a brisk fire, and, when they are of a good light brown, put them in a dish before the fire. Then take half a pint of hot gravy, and put it into the pan, with pepper and salt, and two or three shalots chopped fine. Boil them up in the pan for two or three minutes, and then pour the whole over the steaks. Garnish with horse-radish. Staffordshire Beef-steaks. Beat them a little with a rolling-pin, Aour and season, then fry with sliced onion of a fine light FRYING. 133 brown ; lay the steaks into a stewpan, and pour as much boiling water over them as will serve for sauce : stew them very gently half an hour, and add a spoonful of ketchup, or walnut-liquor, before you serve. Neat’s Tongue. When boiled till tender, cut it into slices, and season with nutmeg, cinnamon, and sugar. Beat up the yolk of an egg with a little lemon-juice, and rub it over the slices with a feather. Make some butter boiling hot in the frying-pan, and then put in the slices. When done, serve with melted butter, sugar, and white wine, made into a sauce. Neat's Feet. Cut the feet in two, take out all the bones, and put the meat into the frying-pan with some butter. When it has fried a few minutes, put in some mint and parsley shred fine, a little salt, and some beaten butter. Add the yolks of two eggs beaten fine, half a pint of gravy, the juice of a lemon, or of an orange, and a little nutmeg. When done, put it into your dish, and pour the sauce over it. Venison. Cut the meat into slices, and make a gravy of the bones. Fry it of a light brown, and keep it hot before the fire. Put butter rolled in flour into the pan, and stir it till thick and brown. Put in half a pound of powdered sugar, with the gravy made from the bones, and some red wine. Have it the thickness of cream ; squeeze in a lemon, warm the venison in it, put it in the dish, and pour the sauce over. 134 ART OF COOKERY. Veal Cutlets. Cut the veal into thin slices; dip them into the yolks of eggs beaten up fine, and strew over them crumbs of bread, sweet herbs, lemon-peel, and grated nutmeg, and fry them with fresh butter. When the meat is done, lay it in a dish before the fire. Shake a little flour in the pan, and stir it round; put in some good gravy, with the juice of a lemon; stir the whole together, and pour it over the cutlets. Garnish with sliced lemon. Sweetbreads. Cut them into long slices, beat up the yolk of an egg, and rub it over them with a feather Make a seasoning of pepper, salt, and grated bread; strew this over, and fry them in butter. Garnish with crisped parsley, and small thin slices of toasted bacon. Calf's Brains. Cut them in four, and soak them in common stock and white wine; with lemon, pepper, salt, thyme, laurel, cloves, parsley, and shalots. In about half an hour take them out, and soak them in but- ter made of white wine, a little oil, and a little salt, and fry them of a fine colour. Strew over them crumbs of bread mixed with the yolks of eggs. Garnish with fried parsley. Serve with melted butter. Neck or Loin of Lamb. When cut in thin slices, pepper and salt, and put a little nutmeg on them, and fry them in fresh butter; when done. take out the steaks, lay them in a dish before the fire to keep them hot ; pour out the butter, shake a little flour into the pan, pour in a quarter of a pint of boiling water, and FRYING, 135 put in a piece of butter : shake all together, boil it, pour it over the steaks, and send them to table. Best end of a Neck of Lamb. Cut it into steaks, and chop each bone so short as to make the steaks almost round. Egg, and strew with crumbs, herbs, and seasoning ; fry them of the finest brown; mash some potatoes with a little butter and cream, and put them into the mid- dle of the dish raised high. Then place the edge of one steak on another with the small bone upward, all round the potatoes. Tripe. Cut your tripe into small square pieces, dip them in some small beer batter, or yolks of eggs, and fry them in good dripping, till of a nice light brown; then take them out, let them drain for a minute, and serve with plain melted butter. Sausages. In addition to the usual method of frying sau- sages, take six apples, and slice four of them; cut the other two into quarters, and take the cores out. Fry the slices with the sausages till they are of a nice light brown. When done, put the sau- sages into the middle of the dish, and the apples round them. Garnish with the apples quartered. Chicken. Cut them into quarters, rub them with the yolk of an egg; strew on crumbs of bread, pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, and chopped parsley. Fry them in butter; and, when done, put them in a dish before the fire. Thicken some gravy with flour, add a small quantity of Cayenne pepper, some mushroom powder or ketchup, and a little lemon-juice. Pour it over the chicken, and serve them. N 2 136 ART OF COOKERY. STEWING. Rump of Beef. Roast it till about half done; then put it into a large stew-pan, with three pints of water, one of small beer, one of port wine, some salt, three or four spoonfuls of vinegar, two of ketchup, a bunch of sweet herbs, some onions, cloves, and Cayenne; cover it close, and simmer for two or three hours. When done, lay it into a deep dish, set over hot water, and cover it close. Skim the gravy; put in pickled mushrooms, truffles, morels; thicken the gravy with flour and butter, heat the whole toge- ther, and pour over the beef. Force-meat balls are an agreeable addition. Beef Gobbets. Cut any piece, except the leg, into small pieces, and put them into a stewpan. Cover with water, and, when stewed an hour, put in a little mace, cloves, and whole pepper, tied loosely in a muslin rag, with some celery cut small. Then add salt, turnips and carrots pared and cut in slices, parsley, a bunch of sweet herbs, a crust of bread, and an ounce of barley or rice. Cover it close, and let it stew till it is tender. Then take out the herbs, spices, and bread; have a French roll nicely toasted, and cut into four parts. Put these into your dish, pour in the meat and sauce, and send it hot to table. Beef Steaks. Season your steaks, and lay them in a stewpan. Put half a pint of water, a blade or two of mace, STEWING. 137 an anchovy, a small bunch of herbs, a piece of but- ter rolled in flour, a glass of white wine, and an onion. Cover close, and let it stew till the steaks are tender; then take them out, strew some flour over them, fry them in fresh butter till they are of a nice brown, and pour off the fat. Strain the sauce that they were stewed in, pour it into the pan, and toss it up altogether till the sauce is quite hot and thick. Then lay your steaks in the dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve with horse- radish and pickles. 3 Another Way. Take rump steaks cut thick ; brown them in a stewpan with some butter and a little water. Add a few spoonfuls more water, an onion sliced, two or three anchovies, with white pepper and salt. Cover close, and stew the steaks over a slow fire for the space of an hour, or till sufficiently done. When stewed completely tender, skim off the fat, and add a glass of port wine, a few oysters, some ketchup, and a little anchovy liquor. Serve up hot. Jussi 7 Fillet of Veal. Take a fillet of a cow calf, stuff it well under the udder, and at the bone-end quite through to the shank. Set it into the oven, with a pint of water under it, till brown; then put to it three pints of gravy. Stew it till it is tender, and add a few morels, truffles, a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, a large one of browning, one of ketchup, and a little Cayenne pepper. Thicken it with a lump of butter rolled in four. Put your veal into a dish; then strain the gravy over it, and lay round force-meat balls. Garnish with sliced lemon and pickles. N 3 138 ART OF COOKERY. Browning. To make browning, a very useful culinary pre- paration, alluded to in the above article, beat small four ounces of treble-refined sugar, and put it into a frying-pan, with one ounce of butter. Set it over a clear fire: mix it well together; and, when it begins to be frothy, by the sugar dissolving, hold it higher over the fire. Have ready a pint of red wine; and, when the sugar and butter are of a deep brown, pour in a little of the wine, and stir the whole well together; then add more wine, stirring it all the time. Add half an ounce of Jamaica pepper, six cloves, four shalots peeled, two or three blades of mace, three spoonfuls of ketchup, a little salt, and the rind of a lemon. Boil it slowly about ten minutes, and then pour it into a bason. When cold, take off the scum very clean, and bot- tle it up for use. Shoulder of Mutton with Oysters. Hang it several days, then salt it well for two days ; bone it, and sprinkle it with pepper, and a bit of mace pounded : lay some oysters over it, and roll the meat up tight and tie it. Stew it in a small quantity of water, with an onion and a few pepper- · corns, till quite tender. Have ready a little good gravy, and some oysters stewed in it; thicken this with flour and butter, and pour over the mutton when the tape is taken off. The stewpan should be kept close covered. Breast of Veal. Stew it gently till tender, in some stock, a glass of white wine, some sweet herbs, mushrooms, two or three onions, some pepper and salt. When done, strain and skin the sauce. Garnish with force-meat balls. STEWING. 139 Knuckle of Veal. Put your veal into a stewpan, upon four wooden skewers, placed crossways, with two or three blades of mace, some whole pepper, an onion, a crust of bread, and two quarts of water. Cover close, and after boiling, let it simmer for two hours. When done, put it into your dish, and strain the liquor over it. Garnish with lemon. Neck of Veal. Lard it with pieces of bacon rolled in pepper and salt, shalots, and spices. Put it into your stewpan with about three pints of common stock, two onions, a laurel-leaf, and a little brandy. Let it simmer gently till it is tender; then pour it into your dish, take the scum clean off the liquor, and pour it on the meat. Calf's Head. Having well cleaned it, lay it in water for an hour. Take out the eyes, brains, bones, and tongue; but do not break the meat. Chop the eyes with a pound of ham, veal, beef-suet, two an- chovies, a bit of lemon-peel, some nutmeg, and sweet herbs; mix with it the yolks of three eggs; reserve enough meat to make about twenty balls ; take some fresh mushrooms, the yolks of six eggs chopped, half a pint of oysters, or pickled cockles ; mix all together, having first stewed your oysters. Stuff the head and close it, tie it tight, put it into a deep stewpan, and add two quarts of gravy, with a blade or two of mace. Cover close, and let it stew two hours; beat up the brains with lemon-peel cut fine, parsley chopped, nutmeg grated, and the yolk of an egg; fry half the brains in little cakes, also fry the balls, and keep them both hot; strain the gravy that the head was stewed in, and add half an 140 ART OF COOK ER Y. ounce of truffles and morels; boil all together, put in the rest of the brains that are fried, stew all to- gether for a minute or two, pour it over the head, and lay the fried brains and balls round it. Garnish with lemon. Lamb's head done in this way is excellent. Ox Cheek. Bone and wash the cheek, tie it up as a rump of beef, and put it into a braising pan, with some stock; when it boils, skim it, add two bay-leaves, garlic, onions, champignons, celery, carrots, half a small cabbage, turnips, sweet herbs, whole black pepper, allspice, and mace; stew it till nearly done; then cut off the strings, put the cheek into another stewpan, strain the liquor, and skim off the fat ; season with lemon-juice, Cayenne pepper, and salt; add a little browning, clear it with eggs, strain it through a tamis-cloth to the cheek, and stew it till tender. Neat's Tongue. Cover it with water, and let it simmer two hours. Peel, and put it into the liquor again, with pepper, salt, mace, cloves, and whole pepper, tied in a bit of fine cloth; a few capers, chopped turnips, carrots sliced, half a pint of beef gravy, a little white wine, and some sweet herbs. Stew it gently till tender ; take out the spice and sweet herbs, and thicken it with butter rolled in flour. Neat's Palates. Lay them in warm water for half an hour, wash them clean, put them in a pot, cover it with brown paper, tie it close, and send it to the oven with as much water as will cover them. When tender, take them out, skin them, and cut them into pieces about STEWING. 141 e hea half an inch in breadth, and three inches long. Put them into a stewpan, with a pint of veal gravy, one spoonful of white wine, the same of ketchup and browning, one onion stuck with cloves, and a slice of lemon. Stew them half an hour; then take out the onion and lemon, thicken the sauce, and pour the whole into a dish. Have ready boiled some artichoke-bottoms, cut them into quarters, and lay them over the palates, with force-meat balls and morels. Garnish with sliced lemon. FULDA e bians T doce Turkey or Fowl. Put a turkey or fowl into a stewpan, with a suf- ficient quantity of gravy, some celery cut small, and a muslin rag filled with mace, pepper, and all- spice, tied loose, an onion, and sprig of thyme, When done, take up your fowl; thicken the liquor it was stewed in with butter and flour; and, having dished it, pour the sauce into the dish. und saki -train et it tu hous peppe Chicken. Half boil in as much water as will just cover them; then take them out, cut them up, and take out the breast bones. Put them into your stewpan with the liquor, adding a blade of mace and a little salt. Cover the pan close, set it over a slow fire, and let it stew till the chicken are enough ; then put the whole into your dish, and send it to table. Turnipa Goose or other Giblets. Well scald them; then cut the neck into four pieces, the pinions into two, and slice the gizzard. Put them into your stewpan with two quarts of water or common stock, with some sweet herbs, an anchovy, a few peppercorns, three or four cloves, il z brok with a er, take - abai 142 ART OF COOKERY. spoonful of ketchup, and an onion. When tender, put in a spoonful of good cream, thicken with flour and butter, pour the whole into a soup-dish, with sippets, and serve it up. Duck. Take two ducks, properly picked and drawn, dust them with flour, and set them before the fire to brown. Put them into a stewpan, with a quart of water, a pint of red wine, a spoonful of walnut ketchup, the same of browning, an anchovy, half a lemon, a clove of garlic, a bunch of sweet herbs, Cayenne pepper, and salt. Let them stew gently till tender; then lay them on a dish, and keep them hot. Skim off the fat from the liquor, strain it through a hair sieve, add a few morels and truffles; boil it quick, till reduced to about half a pint; then pour it over your ducks, and serve them up. Duck, with Green Peas. Half roast a duck. Put it into a stewpan, with a pint of good gravy, some mint, and three or four leaves of sage cut small. Close cover, and let the duck continue in the pan for half an hour. Put a pint of green peas, boiled as for eating, into the pan, after having thickened the gravy. Dish up the duck, and pour the gravy and peas over it. Pigeons. Make a seasoning of pepper, salt, cloves, mace, sweet herbs, and a piece of butter rolled in flour, and put it into their bodies. Tie up their necks and vents, and half roast them: stew them in a quart of good gravy, a little white wine, whole pepper, mace, lemon, sweet herbs, and a small onion : take them out when done, and strain the liquor through a sieve: skim it, and thicken with STEWING. 143 a piece of butter rolled in four; then put in the birds with some pickled mushrooms, and stew them about five minutes ; put them into a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve them. Pheasants. Put a pheasant into a stewpan, with as much veal stock as will cover it ; stew it till there is liquor enough left for sauce : then skim, and put in artichoke-bottoms parboiled, beaten mace, a glass of wine, pepper, and salt ; thicken with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a little lemon- juice. Take up the pheasants, pour the sauce over it, put force-meat balls into the dish, and serve ito Partridges. Truss them as for roasting, stuff the craws, and lard them down each side of the breast : roll a bit of butter in pepper, salt, and beaten mace, and put it into the bellies. Sew up the vents, dredge them with flour, and fry them of a light brown; then put them into a stewpan, with a quart of good gravy, a spoonful of white wine, the same of ketchup, a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, half the quantity of mushroom-powder, one anchovy, half a lemon, and a sprig of sweet marjoram. Cover close, and stew them half an hour; take them out, thicken the gravy, boil it a little, pour it on the partridges. Lay round them artichoke-bottoms boiled and cut in quarters, and the yolks of four hard eggs. Woodcocks, &c. The same as the above. 144 ART. OF COOKERY. HASHING AND MINCING Beef. Cut beef that has been dressed into thin slices, put them into a stewpan, with slices of pickle, either walnuts or onions; then make a sauce with chopped shalots or onions, passed with a bit of fresh butter over a slow fire, till nearly done; after which add a pint of veal stock or gravy, and a little ketchup. Boil it ten minutes, season with Cayenne pepper and salt; then strain it to the beef, let it stew gently till thoroughly hot, and add a small quantity of browning. Mutton. This may be done in the same way. Calf's Head. Chop a head in two, without the scalp; wash and blanch it; peel the tongue, cut it in slices, and likewise the meat from the head. Add blanched morels and truffles, egg and force-meat balls, stewed mushrooms, artichoke-bottoms, and well-seasoned cullis. Stew the meat gently till nearly done, and then add slices of throat sweetbreads. When served up, put the brains and broiled rashers of bacon round the hash. If preferred, half the head may be put on the top, prepared thus : one half when blanched, to be done over with the yolk of a raw egg, seasoned with pepper and salt, strewed with bread crumbs, baked tilī tender, and coloured with a salamander. The brains must be egged, rolled in bread crumbs, and fried in boiling lard. Minced Veal. Cut some dressed veal into small pieces, put it into a stewpan, with grated lemon-peel, and a little. II ASHING AND MINCING. 145 bechemel ; season to the palate with Cayenne pep- per, lemon-juice, and salt; stew the veal gently ten minutes, and serve it with sippets. in slice Venison. Cut your venison into small pieces, and put it into a stewpan, with a glass of red wine, a spoon- ful of ketchup, the same of browning, an onion stuck with cloves, and half an anchovy chopped small. When it boils, put in your venison, and let it remain till thoroughly heated. Then pour the whole together into a soup-dish, with sippets, Garnish with red cabbage or currant jelly. , anda and ai siefel e, and There Ders Git Turkeys, Fowls, or Rabbits. Cut into neat pieces turkeys, fowls, or rabbits, that have been dressed ; put them into a stewpan; make a thickening with fresh butter, flour, and chopped shalots or onions, mixed over a slow fire. Add veal stock, a little lemon-pickle, and ketchup; season to the palate; put a small quantity of brown- ing, boil it for ten minutes, strain it to the poultry, and let it stew gently: or, instead of the thicken- ing and veal stock, add cullis, with lemon-pickle and ketchup. Serve it with a few pieces of the fowl grilled round it. Ducks. Cut a cold duck into joints; and warm it, with- Out boiling, in gravy, a glass of port wine, a tea- spoonful of made mustard, and a little butter and flour. Hare, Wild Fowl, Pheasant, and Partridge. Cut as above into small pieces; put them into a stewpan, and add a liquor made in the same way as for venison; or put cullis and red port, with their own gravy. SODEL umts Flate 146 ART OF cookery. Jugged Hare. Case the hare, cut off the shoulders and legs, and divide the back into three pieces. Daub them well with fat bacon, and put them into a stewpan with the trimmings. Add allspice, mace, and whole pepper, a clove of garlic, three onions, two bay-leaves, parsley, thyme, and savory, tied toge- ther; a quart of veal stock, three gills of red port; simmer them over a fire till nearly done. Then take out the shoulders, legs, and back; put them into another stewpan, strain the liquor to them, and add some butter and flour to thicken it. Let it stew till tender, skim off the fat, season with Cayenne, salt, and lemon-juice, and serve it up in a deep dish. FRICASSEEING. Cold Roast Beef. Take thin slices of underdone beef, shred a hand- ful of parsley very small, cut an onion into quarters, and put all together into a stewpan, with a piece of butter and some strong broth; season with salt and pepper, and simmer very gently a quarter of an hour: then mix into it the yolks of two eggs, a glass of port wine, and a spoonful of vinegar; stir it quick over the fire a minute or two, rub the dish with shalot, and turn the friccassee into it. Neat's Tongue. Boil the tongue till tender, then peel and cut it into slices. Put them into a fryingpan with but- ter, and fry them till brown. Pour the butter from the pan, and put in some good gravy, with sweet herbs, an onion, pepper, salt, a blade or two TRICASSEEING. 147 of mace, and a gill of wine. When they have simmered half an hour, take out the tongue, strain the gravy, and put all again into the pan, with yolks of two eggs beaten fine, a little nutmeg grated, and some butter rolled in flour. Shake the whole well together, and, when it has sim- mered for about five minutes, put the tongue into your disl, pour over the sauce, and serve hot. Beef Palates. Boil them till tender; then blanch and scrape them. Rub them over with mace, nutmegs, cloves, pepper beaten fine, mixed with crumbs of bread. Put them into a stewpan with hot butter, and fry them brown on both sides. Pour off the fat, put as much beef or mutton gravy into a stew- pan as of sauce, an anchovy, a little lemon-juice, salt to make it palatable, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. When these have simmered a quarter of an hour, dish them up, and garnish with sliced lemon. Sweetbreads, brown. Scald and cut your sweetbreads into slices. Beat up the yolk of an egg fine, and put to it some pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Dip the slices of sweetbread into this, and fry them of a light brown. Thicken a little good gravy with flour; boil it well, and add ketchup or mushroom powder, juice of lemon, and Cayenne pepper. Stew the sweet- breads in this about five minutes, put the whole in a dish, and serve it up. Garnish with sliced lemon. Sweetbreads, white. Scald and cut those as before, thicken some veal gravy with a piece of butter rolled in flour, a little 02 148 ART OF COOKERY. cream, some grated lemon-peel and nutmeg, white pepper, salt, and a little mushroom powder. When these have stewed about ten minutes, put in the sweetbreads, shake the pan, and let them simmer; then squeeze in a little lemon-juice, pour the whole into a dish, and serve it up. Lamb's Stones. Fry them in lard till of a nice brown; then take them out, and place them before the fire : thicken about half a pint of veal gravy with some four, add a slice of lemon, a little ketchup, a tea- spoonful of lemon-pickle, grated nutmeg, the yolk of an egg beaten fine, and two spoonfuls of thick cream. Put these into a saucepan over the fire, and shake it till it looks white and thick; then put in the lamb's stones, give them a shake, and, when hot, put them on a dish, with boiled force- meat balls round, intermixed with thin slices of lemon as a garnish. Calf's Feet. Parboil, and take out the long bones, split them, and then put them into a stewpan, with some veal gravy and a glass of white wine. Add the yolks of two or three eggs beaten up with a little cream, grated nutmeg, salt, and a bit of butter. . Stir it till of a good thickness; and, when the whole has gently simmered for about ten minutes, pour it inta your dish. Garnish with sliced lemon, Chicken, or Rabbits. Cut them into pieces; blanch and drain them. Then put them into a stewpan, with a little veal stock, a blade of mace, and a whole onion. Stew them gently till three parts done ; then add slices FRICASSEEING, 149 of blanched throat sweetbreads, stewed with button mushrooms, egg-balls, and pieces of artichoke- bottoms. When they are all nearly stewed, season with salt and lemon-juice, add a liaison of three eggs, and serve it up very hot, with the mace and onion taken out. Figeons. Cut the pigeons in pieces, and fry them of a light brown. Put them into a stewpan, with good gravy; when stewed an hour, throw in a slice of lemon, half an ounce of morels, and a spoonful of browning; stew them five minutes longer, take them up in a dish, thicken the gravy with butter rolled in flour, and strain it on the pigeons. Lay force- meat-balls round, and garnish with pickles. Tripe. Cut it into small square pieces ; put them into your stewpan, with as much white wine as will cover them, white pepper, shred ginger, a blade of mace, sweet herbs, and an onion. Stew it a quar- ter of an hour, take out the herbs and onion, and put in a little shred parsley, the juice of a lemon, half an anchovy cut small, a gill of cream, and either the yolk of an egg or a piece of butter. Sea- son to your taste, and garnish with lemon. Eggs. Boil them hard, and take out some of the yolks whole; then cut the rest in quarters, yolks and white together. Set on some gravy, with a little shred thyme and parsley in it, and, when it boils up, put in your eggs, with a little grated nutmeg, and shake them up with a piece of butter till it is of a proper thickness. Serve it up hot. 03 150 ART OF COOKERY. Eggs with Onions and Mushrooms. When the eggs are boiled hard, take out the yolks entire, and cut the whites in slips, with some onions and mushrooms. Fry the onions and mush- rooms, throw in the whites, and turn them about a little. Pour off the fat, if there be any ; flour the onions, &c., and put to them a little good gravy. Boil this up; then put in the yolks, and add a little pepper and salt. Let the whole simmer for about a minute. Serve it up. RAG OUTS Beef. Take a piece of fat beef, cut the meat from the bones, flour, and fry it in a large stewpan with butter till brown, and cover it in the pan with a gravy made in the following manner: take a pound of coarse beef, half a pound of veal cut small, sweet herbs, an onion, whole black and white pep- per, mace, cloves, a piece of carrot, a slice of lean bacon steeped in vinegar, and a crust of bread toasted brown. Add a quart of white wine, and let it boil till it is half wasted. Pour a quart of boiling water into the stewpan, and let it stew gently. As soon as the gravy is done, strain it, and pour it into the stewpan with the beef. Take an ounce of truffles and morels cut small, with some fresh or dried mushrooms, and two spoonfuls of ketchup. Cover it close, and let it stew till the sauce is thick and rich. Have ready some ar- tichoke-bottoms quartered, and a few pickled mushrooms. Boil the whole together, lay the meat in a dish, pour the sauce over it, and serve it hot. RAGOUTS. 151 Beef Palates. Boil them till tender, and cut them into square and long pieces. Melt a piece of butter into the stewpan, and stir in a large spoonful of four; put to it a quart of good gravy, three shalots chopped fine, a gill of white wine, two or three slices of lean ham, and half a lemon. Boil them twenty minutes, strain the liquor through a sieve, and put it into a pan, with the palates and force-meat; some truffles and morels, and pickled or fresh mush- rooms stewed in gravy ; season it with pepper and salt. Toss them all up for five minutes, dish them, and garnish with lemon or beetroot. Breast of Veal. Half roast it, then take out the bones, and put the meat into a stewpan, with a quart of veal gravy, and two ounces of truffles and morels. When the meat is tender, and just before you thicken the gravy, put in some oysters, pickled mushrooms, and pickled cucumbers, in small square pieces, and the yolks of four eggs boiled hard. In the meantime, cut your sweetbread into pieces, and fry it of a light brown. When the veal is well stewed, dish, and pour the gravy hot upon it. Lay your sweetbread, morels, truffles, and eggs, round it, and garnish with pickled bar- berries. Calves' Feet. Boil them, bone, and cut the meat in slices : brown them in the frying-pan, and then put them in some good beef gravy, with morels, truffles, and pickled mushrooms, the yolks of four eggs boiled hard, some salt, and butter rolled in flour. 152 ART OF COOKERY. Mutton. Cut some slices, the right way of the grain, off a leg of mutton ; pare off all the skin and fat. Then put some butter into your stewpan, and shake flour over it; add two or three slices of lemon, with half an ounce cut small, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a blade of mace. Put these and your meat into the pan, stir them together for five or six minutes, and then put in half a pint of gravy, with an anchovy minced, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Stir the whole well together, and, when it has stewed about ten minutes, serve it hot. Garnish with pickles and sliced lemon. Fore Quarter of Lamb. Take off the knuckle-bone, and cut off all the skin. Lard well with bacon, and fry it of a nice brown. Put it into a stewpan, and just cover it with gravy, a bunch of sweet herbs, pepper, salt, beaten mace, and a little whole pepper. Cover it close, and let it stew half an hour. Strain off the gravy, and have ready half a pint of fried oysters. Pour off the fat, and put them into the gravy, with two spoonfuls of red wine, a few mushrooms, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Boil all together with the juice of half a lemon. Lay the lamb in the dish, pour the sauce over it, and send it to table. Pigs' Feet and Ears. Boil them till tender, cut the ears into long nar. row slices, and split the feet down the middle. Put into a stewpan half a pint of beef gravy, a tea- spoonful of lemon-pickle, two of ketchup, the same of browning, and a little salt. Thicken with butter rolled in flour, and put in the feet and ears. Let them boil gently, and when done lay the feet in the RAGOUTS. 153 middle of the dish, and the ears round them. Strain the gravy, pour it over, and garnish with crisped parsley. Sweetbreads. Rub them with the yolk of an egg, strew over crumbs of bread, parsley, thyme, and sweet marjo- ram shred small, pepper and salt; make a roll of force-meat like a sweetbread, put it in a veal caul, and roast them in a Dutch oven; take brown gravy, a little lemon pickle, mushroom ketchup, and the end of a lemon; boil the gravy, and when the sweetbreads are done enough, lay them in a dish; with a force-meat in the middle; take the end of the lemon out, and pour the gravy into the dish. Goose. Skin and dip the goose into boiling water, and break the breast bone, that it may lie quite flat. Season with pepper, salt, and a little beaten mace; lard it, and four it all over. Take about a pound of beef suet, and put it into your stewpan, to melt; when boiling hot, put in the goose. As soon as you find the goose brown all over, put in a quart of boiling beef gravy, sweet herbs, and a blade of mace, some cloves, whole pepper, two or three small onions, and a bay leaf. Cover the pan close, and let it stew gently over a slow fire. If the goose be small, it will be done in an hour; but if large, an hour and a half. Make a ragout for it in the following manner: cut turnips and carrots into small pieces, with three or four onions sliced; boil and put them, with half a pint of rich beef gravy, into a saucepan, with some pepper, salt, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Let them stew a quarter of an hour. When done, take the goose out of the stew-pan, drain the liquor well from it, put it into a dish, and pour the ragout over it. 154 ART OF COOKERY, Livers of Poultry. Put the livers of a turkey, and half a dozen fowls, for a short time into cold water ; take the fowl livers from the water, and put them into a pan, with a quarter of a pint of gravy, a spoonful of pickled or fresh mushrooms, one of ketchup, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Season with pepper and salt, and stew them gently ten minutes, In the meantime, boil the turkey's liver nicely, and lay it in the middle, with the stewed livers round it. Pour the sauce over, garnish with lemon, and serve it. COM TO DRESS FISH. General Observations. For the sake of simplicity, and to save the cook the trouble of turning to different parts of the volume, we shall, in giving the principal kinds of fish in succession, also furnish instructions for the various modes of dressing each. When the fish comes in, examine whether it has been properly cleaned. Cod, whiting, and haddock are better for being a little salted, and kept a day; and if not very hot weather, they will be good in two days. Fresh water fish frequently has a muddy smell and taste; to take off which, soak it in a strong salt and water, after it has been well cleaned ; or, if of a size to bear it, scald it in the same; then dry and dress it. The boiling of most kinds of fish is very easy; and there are but few sorts which cannot be plainly dressed; nothing more is necessary than to put them into boiling spring water, sparingly salted, TO DRESS FISH. 155 and to garnish with parsley and scraped horse- radish. With respect to flat fish, take great care in the boiling of them; be sure to let them be done enough, but do not let them break; drain them well, and cut the fins off. For broiling, fish in general should be floured, except herrings, which should be scored with a knife. When you fry fish, dry them in a cloth, and flour them. Put in the frying-pan plenty of dripping, or hog's lard, and let it boil before you put in the fish. When fried, lay them in a dish or hair sieve, to drain. If you fry parsley, pick it cautiously, wash it well, dip it into cold water, and throw it into the pan of boiling fat. This will crisp it of a fine green, if it does not remain too long in the pan. In the stewing of fish, the following general rules may be observed. Put to some cullis a few chopped shalots, anchovies, a bay leaf, horse-radish scraped, a little quantity of lemon-peel, and some red port; season it well with Cayenne pepper, salt, and juice of lemon; boil till of a proper thickness, then strain it to the fish : stew the whole gently, and serve it in a deep dish, with ine .iquor and fried bread round it. Observe, in stewing carp or tench, to garnish with some of the hard roe mixed in bat- ter, and fried in pieces. The roes of different fish may be stewed in the same way, and served as a dish. Salt fish, of which cod and ling are the best, should be soaked in water all night. A glass of vinegar thrown into the water will take out the salt, and make the fish as mild as though it were fresh. When you dress it, put it into the water cold; and, if it be good, about fifteen minutes' gentle boiling will do it. 156 ART OF COOKERY, The cod fish should not be all boiled at once; a large head and shoulders contain all the fish that is proper to help, the thinner parts being overdone and tasteless before the thick are ready. But the whole fish may be purchased at times more reason- ably; and the lower half, if sprinkled and hung up, will be in high perfection one or two days. Scotch haddocks should be soaked all night. You may boil or broil them; if you broil, split them in two. All the different kinds of dried fish, except stockfish, are salted, dried in the sun, in prepared kilns, or by the smoke of wood fires ; and require to be softened and freshed, in proportion to their bulk, nature, or dryness; the very dry sort, as cod, whiting, &c., should be steeped in lukewarm milk and water, kept as near as possible to an equal degree of heat. The larger fish should be steeped twelve hours; the smaller, about two; after which they should be taken out and hung up by the tails until they are dressed. The reason for hanging them up is, that they soften equally as in the steeping, without extracting too much of the relish, which would render them insipid. When thus pre- pared, the small fish, as whiting, tusk, &c., should be floured and laid on the gridiron; and, when a little hardened on the one side, must be turned and basted with sweet oil upon a feather; and when basted on both sides, and well heated through, taken up. A clear charcoal fire is the best for cooking them, and the fish should be kept at a good distance, to broil gradually. When they are enough, they will swell a little in the basting; and you must not let them fall again. If boiled, as the larger fish generally are, it should be in milk and water. They should be kept just simmering over an equal fire : in which way, TO DRESS FISH. 157 half an hour will do the largest fish, and five mi- nutes the smallest. Dried salmon, though a large fish, does not re- quire more steeping than a whiting; and, when laid on the gridiron, should be moderately pep- pered. Dried or red herring, instead of milk and water, should be steeped in small beer. To herring, as to all kinds of broiled salt fish, sweet oil is the best basting, and will be no ways offensive even to those who do not love oil. We shall now proceed to particulars, in which we shall commence with dressing salmon. Salmon to boil. In this, as in every other instance of boiling fish, be particular in attending to the general directions of putting salt and horse-radish in the water. Clean the fish and scrape it carefully, boil it gently, and take it out of the water as soon as done. Let the water be warm if the fish are split. If underdone, it is very unwholesome. Serve it with shrimp, lobster, or anchovy sauce. Salmon to broil. If fresh, cut the fish into slices, wipe them dry, and season with pepper and salt; fold them in pieces of writing paper well buttered, broil them over a clear fire six or eight minutes, and serve them up as hot as possible. If dried, soak it for two or three hours, then put it on the gridiron, and shake over it a little pepper. It will take but a short time; and when done, serve it up with melted butter. Salmon to pot or bake. Scale and dry a fresh salmon ; slit it down the back, take out the bone, and mix some grated nut- 158 ART OF COOKERY. meg, mace, pepper, and salt, and strew it over the fish ; let it lie for two or three hours, then lay it in a large pot, and put to it half a pound of butter, and bake it an hour. When done, lay it to drain ; then cut it up, and lay the pieces on layers, with the skin uppermost, in pots; put a board over the pots, and lay on a weight to press it till cold ; then take the board and weight off, and pour over clari- fied butter. It may be sent to table in pieces, o" cut in slices. Salmon to collar. Take a side of salmon, cut off some of the tail ; wash the fish well, dry it with a clean cloth, and rub it over with the yolks of eggs. Then make force-meat with what has been cut off the tail ; but take off the skin, and put to it a handful of sweet herbs chopped small, a little salt, mace, nutmeg, pepper beat fine, and grated bread. Work all these together into a body, lay it all over the fleshy part, with a little more pepper and salt. Roll the fish up into a collar, bind it with broad tape, then boil it in water, salt, and vinegar, with a bunch of sweet herbs, sliced ginger, and nutmeg. Let it boil near two hours; when it is enough, take it up into your sousing pan, and, when the pickle is cold, put it to your salmon, and let it stand in it till used. Salmon to souse or pickle. Boil the fish, as at first directed ; after which, take it out and boil some of the liquor with bav leaves, peppercorns, and salt; add vinegar when cold, and pour it over the fish, which should not be eaten under four days. Salmon to dry. Split the fish, take out the inside and roe; and, after scaling it, rub the whole with common salt. TO DRESS FISH. 159 Let it hang twenty-four hours to drain. Pound three or four ounces of salt petre, according to the size of the fish, half the quantity of bay salt, and half the quantity of coarse sugar. Rub these, when mixed, well into the salmon, and lay it on a large dish or tray two days; then rub it well with com- mon salt, and in twenty-four hours more it will be fit to dry. Be careful to dry it well after draining; hang it either in a chimney with a wood fire, or in a dry place, keeping it open with two small sticks. Trout to boil. They must be boiled according to the general directions, and served up with anchovy sauce and plain butter. Trout to broil. When your fish is clean washed and well dried, tie it round with packthread, to keep its shape en- tire: melt some butter, with a good deal of basket salt, and cover the trout with it; put on a clear fire at a good distance, and broil it gradually. Wash and bone an anchovy, cut it small, and chop some capers ; melt some butter with a little flour, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and half a spoonful of vinegar. Pour this over the trout, and serve it hot Turbot to boil. Cover the fish in cold water, throw a handful of salt and a glass of vinegar into it, and let it gradu- ally boil. Should the fish not be done in the mid- dle, cut a small slit down the back, close to the bone, and the same on the belly side, with a sharp knife. Skim it well. Garnish with a complete fringe of curled parsley, lemon, and horse-radish. Serve with lobster, anchovy butter, and plain but- ter, plentifully in separate tureens. P 2 160 ART OF COOKERY. Turbot to fry. Your fish must be small; cut it across as if it were ribbed; when dry, flour, and put it in a large frying-pan, with boiling lard enough to cover it. Fry it till brown, and then drain it. Clean the pan, and put into it white wine almost enough to cover it, anchovy, salt, nutmeg, and a little ginger. Put in the fish, and let it stew till half the liquor is wasted. Take out your fish, and put into the pan a piece of butter rolled in flour, and some minced lemon. Let them simmer till of a proper thickness : rub a hot dish with a piece of shalot, lay the turbot in the dish, pour the hot sauce over it, and serve it. Soles to boil. Skin and gut a pair of soles. Wash, and lay them in vinegar, salt, and water, for two hours ; dry them in a cloth, put them into a stew-pan, with a pit of white wine, a bunch of sweet hierbs, an onion stuck with six cloves, some whole pepper, and a little salt. Cover them, and, when done enough, take them up, and lay them in your dish; strain the liquor, thicken it with butter and flour. Pour the sauce over, and garnish with horse-radish and lemon. Another way. Take three quarts of spring water, and a handful of salt; let it boil, then put in your soles, and boil them gently for ten minutes. Serve with anchovy or shrimp sauce in tureens. Flounders, Plaice, or Dabs, to boil. The method of dressing either may be used with all; cut off the fins, nick the brown side under the head, and take out the guts; dry them with a cloth, and boil them in salt and water. Serve them up TO DRESS PISII. 161 with shtimp, cockle, or muscle sauce, and garnish with red cabbage. Skate, or Thornback, to boil. First cut it into long slips, crossways, about an inch broad, and put it into spring water and salt. Afterwards boil it, according to the general direc- tions, for a quarter of an hour, and serve it with melted butter and anchovy sauce, Skate to roast. Take off the fins, after they have hung a day or two in the open air; and, while they are roasting, baste with butter. Serve with melted butter and anchovy sauce. Skate to broil. Take off the fins, as above; and, when suffi- ciently broiled, rub them over with cold butter, and serve immediately. Skate, &c., to fry. It should be dipped in batter, or done with bread crumbs ; if dipped in batter, it requires more lard or butter to fry it. Fresh Sturgeon. · Cut the fish in slices, like cutlets, an inch thick, rub egg over them, and sprinkle with crumbs of bread, pepper, salt, and parsley ; fold them in paper, and boil gently. Butter, anchovy, and soy, to be used as sauce. Garnish with fried oysters, scraped horse-radish, and slices of lemon. Sturgeon to roast. Put it on a lark spit, and tie it on the roasting spit; baste it well with butter, make a good sauce P 3 162 ART OF COOKER Y. of cullis, white wine, anchovies, a squeeze of Seville orange, and a little sugar. Cod to boil. Put a good deal of water into your fish-kettle, which must be of a proper size for the cod, with a quarter of a pint of vinegar, some salt, and half a stick of horse-radish. When it boils, put in the fish. When it is done (which will be known by feeling the fins, and the look of the fish), lay it to drain, put it on a hot fish-plate, and then in a warm dish, with the liver cut in half, and laid on each side. Serve it up with shrimp or oyster-sauce, and garnish with horse-radish, double parsley, and lemon. Cod's Head to boil. Wash it well; take out the gills and blood, and wash the head ; rub it with salt and vinegar; boil it gently half an hour; but if it be a large one it will take three quarters. Take it up and skin it carefully; put it before a brisk fire, dredge it with flour, and baste it with butter. When the froth begins to rise, throw crumbs of bread over it, and baste it till it froths well. When brown, dish it. Garnish with small fish, or oysters fried, barberries, horse-radish, and lemon. Serve with lobster, shrimp, or anchovy sauce. Cod's Sounds to boil. Clean and cut them into small pieces, boil them in milk and water, and then let them drain. Put them into a saucepan, and season them with beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt. When tender, serve them in a napkin, with egg sauce. Dress cod tongues in the same way TO DRESS FISH. 163 Cod to broil. Cut it into slices two inches thick, dry and flour them well; rub the gridiron with a piece of chalk, set it high from the fire, and turn them often, till of of a fine brown colour. Care must be taken in turning them that they do not break. Serve with lobster and shrimp sauce. Crimped Cod to broil. · Put a gallon of spring water into a saucepan over the fire, with a handful of salt. Boil it up several times, and when well cleared from the scum, put a middling-sized cod into some fresh spring water for a few minutes, cut it into slices two inches thick, put them in the hot brine, and let them boil briskly a few minutes; then take the slices out, and put them on a sieve till drained; four them, and lay them at a distance, upon a good fire, to broil. Serve them with lobster, shrimp, or oyster sauce. Cod's Sounds to broil. First lay them in hot water a few minutes ; take them out and rub them well with salt, to take off the skin and black dirt; they will then look white; put them into water, and give them a boil. Take them out, and flour, pepper, and salt them; then broil them ; when they are done lay them in your dish, and pour melted butter and mustard over them. Broil them whole. Cod to stew. i Cut your cod in slices an inch thick, lay them in a large stew-pan, season with nutmeg, beaten pep- per, and salt, a bundle of sweet herbs, and an onion, half a pint of white wine, and a quarter of a pint of water; cover close, and let it simmer gently for five or six minutes; then squeeze in a lemon ; 164 ART OF COOKERY. put in a few oysters and the liquor strained, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a blade or two of mace; cover it close, and let it stew gently, shaking the pan often. When done, take out the sweet herbs and onion, and dish it up; pour the sauce over it. Cod's Head to bake. When you have thoroughly cleaned and washed it, lay it in the dish, which you must first rub round with butter. Put in some sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, three or four blades of mace, some black and white pepper, a nutmeg bruised, a little lemon-peel, a piece of horse-radish, and a quart of water. Dust with flour, grate a little nutmeg over, stick bits of butter on various parts, sprinkle rasp- ings all over it, and send it to the oven. When done, take the head out of the dish, and put it into that in which it is to be served up. Set the dish over boiling water, and cover it to prevent its getting cold. In the mean time, as expeditiously as you can, pour all the liquor out of the dish in which it was baked into a saucepan, and let it boil two or three minutes; then strain it, and put to it a gill of red wine, two spoonfuls of ketchup, a pint of shrimps, half a pint of oysters, a spoonful of mushroom pickle, and a quarter of a pound of but- ter rolled in flour. Stir it well together, and let it boil till it is thick ; then strain it, and pour it into the dish. Have ready some roasted bread cut corner ways, and fried crisp. Stick some pieces of toast about the head and mouth, and lay the re- mainder round the head. Garnish with crisped parsley, lemon, and horse-radish. Cod's Sounds to fricassee. Having well cleaned them, cut them into small pieces, boil them in milk and water, and set them TO DRESS FISI. 165 to drain. Then put them into a clean saucepan, season them with beaten mace, grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Add to them a gill of cream, with a piece of butter rolled in flour; shake it till it is thoroughly hot, and of a good thickness. Then pour all into your dish, ånd serve it up with sliced lemon. Salt Cod to boil. Soak it all night, as before directed. The next day boil it, and, when done, separate it in flakes in your dish. Pour egg sauce over it, or parsnips boiled and beaten fine with butter and cream. As it will soon grow cold, send it to table on a water- plate. Haddocks and Whitings to boil. Boil these the same as cod. Haddocks and Whitings to broil. When you have cleaned and washed your fish, dry them in a cloth, and rub a little vinegar over them, which will prevent the skin from breaking. Dredge them with flour; rub the gridiron with beef suet, and let it be hot when you lay on the fish. While broiling, turn them two or three times. Serve them up with plain melted butter, or shrimp sauce. Mackerel to boil. After having well cleaned, dry them in a cloth, rub them with vinegar, and lay them on a fish-plate; be very careful in handling them, for fear of break- ing: when the water boils, put them in with a little salt, and boil them gently for a quarter of an hour; then take them up, drain, and put the water that runs from them into a saucepan, with a large spoonful of ketchup, a blade or two of mace, an 166 ART OF COOKERY. anchovy, and a slice of lemon. Boil these toge- ther about a quarter of an hour, strain through a hair sieve, and thicken with flour and butter. Put this sauce into one tureen, and melted butter and parsley in another. Dish them with their tails in the middle, and garnish with horse-radish and bar- berries. Mackerel to broil. Wash them clean, cut off their heads, take out their roes at the neck end, and boil them in a little water; then bruise them with a spoon; beat up the yolk of an egg with a little nutmeg, lemon- peel cut fine, herbs boiled and chopped fine, salt, pepper, and some crumbs of. bread; mix these to- gether, and put it into the bellies of the fish; flour them well, and broil them nicely. For sauce, use melted butter, with a little ketchup, or walnut pickle. Mackerel to collar. Clean your mackerel, slit it down the belly, cut off the head, take out the bones, lay it on its back, season it with mace, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and a handful of shred parsley ; strew it over them, roll them tight, and tie them separately in cloths; let them boil gently twenty minutes in vinegar, salt, and water ; then take them out, put them into a pan, and pour the liquor on them, or the cloth will stick to the fish; the next day take the cloth from the fish, add a little vinegar to the pickle ; and, when you send them to table, garnish with fennel and parsley, and put some liquor in the dish. Mackerel to 'pot. Clean, season, and bake them in a pan, with plenty of spice, bay leaves, and butter; when cold, put them into a potting-pot, and cover them with butter. 168 ART OF COOKERY. butter over a brisk fire, and, when done, set their tails up one against another in the middle of the dish. Fry a handful of parsley crisp and green, lay it round the fish, and serve with melted butter, parsley, and mustard. Herrings to bake. Wash, scale, and wipe them dry with a cloth ; lay them on a board, mix black pepper, a few cloves, with plenty of salt, and rub the dish all over. Lay them straight in a pan, cover them with vinegar, put in a few bay leaves, tie a strong pa- per over, and bake them in a moderate oven. They may be eaten either hot or cold; use the best vinegar, and they will keep two or three months. Herrings to pot. After having cleaned them, cut off the heads, remove the scales, and lay them close in an earthen pot. Between every layer of herrings strew salt, but not too much : put in cloves, mace, whole pep- per, and pieces of nutmeg; fill up the pan with vinegar, water, and a quarter of a pint of white wine. Cover and tie it down, bake it, and, when cold, pot it for use. Herrings to smoke. Clean and lay your herrings in salt and a little saltpetre one night; then hang them on a stick, through the eyes, in a row. Have ready an old cask, into which put some sawdust, and in the midst of it a red-hot heater; fix the stick over the smoke, and let them remain twenty-four hours. ' Red Herrings to dress. Those that are large and moist are much best cut them open, and soak them in boiling small beer for half an hour ; drain them quite dry, and make TO DRESS FISI. 169 them just hot through before the fire ; then rub some cold butter over them, and serve. Egg- sauce, or buttered eggs and mashed potatoes, may be served with them. Sprats. Dress these the same as herrings, except in the broiling : which, if you have not a sprat gridiron, do as follows: when properly cleaned, they should be fastened in rows by a skewer run through the heads, then broiled, and served hot and hot. Carp to boil. Save all the blood in killing your carp, and have ready some rich beef gravy, seasoned with pepper, salt, mace, and onions. Before you put in your fish, strain it off, and boil your carp before you put it to your gravy. Set it on a slow fire a quarter of an hour, and thicken with a large piece of butter rolled in flour; or you may make the sauce thus : take liver of the carp clean from the inside, with three anchovies, a little parsley, thyme, and an onion. Chop these small together, and take half a pint of white wine, four spooufuls of vinegar, and the blood of the carp. When all these are stewed gently together, put it to the carp, which must first be boiled in water, with some salt, and a pint of wine ; but take care not to do it too much after adding the carp to the sauce. Carp to fry. After having cleaned and dried them in flour, fry them of a fine light brown; fry some toast cut three-corner-ways with the roes : let the sauce be butter and anchovy, with a squeezed lemon. Lay the carp in the dish, the roes on each side, and garnish with the toast and lemon. 170 ART OF COOKERY. Carp to stew. Scale and clean your fish. Lay them in a stew- pan, with some good gravy, an onion, eight cloves, à dessert-spoonful each of Jamaica and black pep- per, and a small quantity of gravy of port; sim- mer close covered; when nearly done, add two an- chovies chopped fine, a dessert-spoonful of made mustard, some fine walnut ketchup, and a bit of butter rolled in flour: shake it, let the gravy boil a few minutes, and add a spoonful of soy. Serve with sippets of fried bread, the roe fried, and a good deal of horse-radish and lemon. Tench, and Perch. Place them in cold water, then boil them care- fully, and serve them up with melted butter and soy. They do not preserve their flavour so well in stewing as in boiling. Pike to boil. Wash, clean, and gill it; make a force-meat of chopped oysters, crumbs of bread, a little chopped lemon-peel, a lump of butter, the yolks of two eggs, and some sweet herbs; season it with salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; put them into the belly of the fish, sew it up, and skewer it round. Boil in hard water with some salt, and a gill of vinegar, When the water boils, put in the fish, which, if of a middling size, will be done in half an hour. Serve with oyster sauce in a tureen. Pike to roast. Wash, scale, and clean your pike; then make a stuffing in the following manner: the crumb of a roll soaked in cream, a quarter of a pound of but- ter, an anchovy, some parsley, and sweet herbs chopped, the liver or roe of the fish bruised, a TO DRESS FISI. 171 little chopped lemon-peel, some grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt, the yolks of two eggs ; mix all together, and put it in the belly of your fish, and tie it round; rub the yolk of an egg over, and strew some crumbs of bread on it; put some but- ter here and there on it; roast it before the fire in a tin oven. Serve with anchovy sauce, and plain melted butter, Garnish with horse-radish and barberries. Pike to pot. Scale, clean, and cut off the head, split it, and take out the chine-bone; then strew over the in- side some bay salt and pepper, roll it up round, and lay it in a pot; cover, and bake it an hour ; then take it out, and lay it to drain; when it is cold, put it into your pot, and cover it with clari- fied butter. Smelts to fry. After having washed and taken away the gills, dry them in a cloth; then beat up an egg very fine, rub it over them with a feather, and strew on crumbs of bread. Fry them in hog's lard over a clear fire, and put them in when the fat is boiling hot. When they are done of a fine brown, take them out, and drain off the fat. Garnish with fried parsley and lemon. Smelts to pot. Carefully gut and clean them; then season with salt, pounded mace, and pepper; put them into a pan, with butter on the top, and set them in a very slack oven. When they are done, and nearly cold, take them out, and lay them on a cloth; then put them in pots, take the butter from the liquor, clarify it with more, pour it on them, tie them down close, and set them by for use. Q2 172 ART OF COOKERY. Mullets to boil. These must be boiled in salt and water. When done, pour away part of the water, and add to what remains a pint of red wine, some salt and vinegar, two onions sliced, with a bunch of sweet herbs; some nutmeg, beaten mace, and the juice of a lemon. Boil them well together, with two or three anchovies. Then put in the fish, and, when they have simmered some time, put them into a dish, and strain the sauce over them. You may add shrimp or oyster sauce. Mullets to fry. Scale and gut them, score them across the back, and dip them in melted butter. Clarify some but- ter, fry the mullets in it, and, when done, lay them on a warm dish, and serve them with anchovy sauce. Gudgeons to fry. Gudgeons, as well as all other small fishi, should be fried brown, and be well drained from the fat. They may be served with anchovy sauce or plain I utter, and garnished with lemon. Eels to boil. After cleaning them, cut off their heads, dry, and twist them round on your fish-plate. Boil them in salt and water. Serve with parsley and butter. Eels to broil. After having cleaned, rub them with the yolk of an egg; strew over them crumbs of bread, chopped parsley and sage, pepper and salt. Baste them well with butter, and then put them on a gridiron over a clear fire. When done, serve them up with inelted butter and parsley. TO DRESS FISH. 173 sal and of sweet he jalce 7 two u dt, when Eels spitchcocked. Wash, and rub with salt, but not to crack the skin, two large eels ; bone, flatten, and cut them in lengths of between three and four inches. Put butter in a stewpan, with some chopped onion or shalots, parsley, thyme, sage, salt, and pepper; and, when the butter is melted, add the yolks of two eggs, with a squeeze of Seville orange, or some lemon-juice, and mix the whole together. In the mean time, have ready some crumbs of bread, in which roll the pieces of eel, after they have been dipped in the stew-pan. Broil them on a clean gridiron, first rubbed over with beef suet, till they are of a fine brown colour; then lay them on a cloth, to soak up the superfluous moisture, and put them round the inside of the dish, with a little parsley in the centre, and small sprigs on the bor- der. Serve with anchovy sauce, and plain butter. into a Cou me back me but av then anchor should the fat or plai Eels to fry. Make them very clean, cut them into pieces, sea- son them with pepper and salt, flour them, and fry them in butter ; let your sauce be plain melted butter, with the juice of lemon. Drain them well from the fat. Eels to pot. Skin and clean a very large eel. Dry and cut it in pieces about four inches long; season them with a little beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and a little sal-prunella beaten fine. Lay them in a pan, and just cover with clarified butter; bake them half an hour in a quick oven; but the size of the eel must determine how long to bake it : take them out with a fork, and lay them on a cloth to drain. When cold, season them again with the same seasoning, and lay them close in the pot ; take off the butter they were baked in from the roli ci chopper te the gridae up 174 ART OF COOKERY. gravy of the fish, and set it in a dish before the fire. When melted, pour it over them, and put them by for use. Eels to collar. Bone, but do not skin, a large eel, take off the head and tail, and lay them flat on the dresser. Shred sage as fine as possible, and mix it with black pepper beaten, nutmeg, and some salt. Lay it all over the eel, and roll it up hard in little cloths, tying it tight at each end. Then put on some water, with pepper and salt, five or six cloves, . three or four blades of mace, and a bay leaf or two. Boil these, with the bones, head, and tail; then take out the bones, head, and tail, and put in the eel. Boil it till tender, then take it out of the liquor, and boil the liquor still longer. Take it off, and, when cold, put it to the eels; but do not take off the cloths till the collars are to be used Lampreys to fry. Bleed them, and save the blood ; then wash them in hot water, and cut them to pieces; fry them in fresh butter not quite enough, pour out the fat, and put in a little white wine; give the pan a shake, season it with whole pepper, nutmeg, salt, sweet herbs, and a' bay leaf; put in a few capers, a good piece of butter rolled in flour, and the blood; shake the pan often, and cover them close ; when done, take them out, strain the sauce; then give them a quick boil, squeeze in a little lemon, and pour over the fish. Garnish with lemon. Lobster to roast. Half boil a lobster, take it out of the water while hot, rub it well with butter, and lay it before the fire ; continue basting it with butter till it froths, and the shell looks of a dark brown. Then TO DRESS FISI. 175 put it into your dish, and serve it up with melted butter in a sauce tureen. Lobster to pot. Half boil a live lobster in salt and water, and stick a skewer in the vent, to prevent the water getting in. When cold, take out all the flesh, beat it fine in a inortar, and season it with beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Mix all together, melt a small piece of butter, and mix it with the lobster as you beat it. When beaten to a paste, put it into your pot, and press it down close. Set some butter in a deep broad pan before the fire, and, when it is all melted, take off the scum, if any, and pour the clear butter over the fish as thick as a crown piece. Your butter must be very good, or you will spoil all. If you prefer it, you may put in the meat whole, with the body mixed among it, laying them as close together as you can, and pouring the butter over them. Prawns, Shrimps, and Cray-fish, to stew. ' Pick out the tails; take the bodies, bruise them, and put them into a pint of white wine, with a blade of mace ; let them stew a quarter of an hour, stir them together, and strain them; put the bodies to the strained liquor and tails ; grate a small nutmeg, a little salt, and a bit of butter rolled in flour ; shake it all together, toast some thin bread, cut it into six pieces, lay it close toge- ther in your dish, and pour your fish and sauce over it. Shrimps to pot. After having boiled your shrimps, season them with pepper, salt, and some pounded cloves. Put them close into a pot, set them for a few minutes into a slack oven, and then pour over them clari- fied butter. 176 ART OF COOKERY. Crab to stew. Pick the meat of a fine large crab, and clean it from the skin; put it into a stew-pan, with half a pint of white wine, a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt, over a slow fire; throw in a few crumbs of bread, beat up the yolk of an egg with a spoonful of vinegar, put it all in, shake the saucepan a minute, and serve it up on a plate. Oysters to stew. · Put the liquor of your oysters into a pan, with a little beaten mace; thicken it with flour and but- ter, boil it three or four minutes, toast a slice of bread and cut it cornerways, lay them round your dish, add a spoonful of good cream, put in your oysters, and shake them in your pan; you must not let them boil, for, if they do, it will make them hard, and look small; serve them up hot. Oysters to ragout, Chop some fresh mushrooms, shalots, and pars- ley; put these into a stew-pan with a piece of but- ter, some good gravy, some of the liquor, and a little white wine. Make it of a proper consistence. Then having ready two or three dozen of oysters, bearded, and gently parboiled, put them to the sauce, to be warmed without boiling, Oysters to escalop. . Put them with crumbs of bread, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a bit of butter, into escalop-shells or saucers, and bake them before the fire in a Dutch oven. Oysters to pickle Procure three dozen of the largest oysters, wash them in their own liquor, strain and wipe them dry, SOUPS AND BROT 118. 177 add a large tea-spoonful of pepper, two blades of mace, a dessert spoonful of salt, three of white wine, and four of vinegar. Simmer them a few minutes in the liquor, put them in jars, and boil the pickle up, skim it, and when cold, pour over the oysters.; and cover them up close. SOUPS AND BROTHS. General Observations. In our instructions respecting the larder, we have sufficiently dwelt upon the necessity of keep- ing particularly clean every utensil connected with cookery. We have also treated of the mode of attending to the stocks, cullisses, braisings, &c. On these subjects we have, therefore, only the fol- lowing general remarks to make : The best and most wholesome soup is obtained from the freshest meat, those parts of it being se- lected which afford the most and richest succulence or juice. When there is any fear that gravy-meat will spoil before it may be wanted, season it well, and fry it lightly, which will preserve it two days longer ; but the stock is best when the juices are fresh. Observe, that whatever has vegetables in it is apt to ferment, or turn sour, sooner than without. On this account, roots are much less frequently put into stock than formerly. Soups, in general, are better if made the day be- fore they are wanted; for by that means, as long boiling is necessary to give the full favour of all 178 ART OF COOKERY. the ingredients, they may thus have the requisite advantage. When fat is found to remain on soup, a tea- cupful of flour and water mixed quite smooth, and boiled in it, will take it off. Should soup be found deficient in richness or consistency, a large piece of butter mixed with flour, and boiled in it, will impart either of these qualities. It should also be observed, that, if they are too weak, they ought not to be covered whilst boiling. It should be particularly remembered that, in all soups and broths, the taste of one ingredient should not predominate over that of another; the taste should be equal, and the whole should have a fine agreeable flavour, according to what it is des signed for. Stock. Every person is aware that, in all fami- lies where much cooking is required, it is indispen- sably necessary to have in constant readiness what is denominated store or stock, without which, neither soups, gravies, nor made dishes, can be prepared. This necessary provision, which must be considered as the basis of all good cookery, is chiefly of two descriptions—beef and veal. For Beef Stock. Take twenty pounds of coarse lean beef cut into small pieces, and put into a pot, or preferably a digester, with water sufficient to cover it. As it begins to simmer, take particular care to keep it well skimmed ; in the mean time, add such pot- herbs as may suit it to the desired flavour, Season with salt and ground pepper; and keep it simmer, ing till the meat becomes quite tender. Skim it well, strain the liquor through a fine hair sieve, and keep it in a covered pan for use. SOUPS AND BROTHS. 179 It was formerly usual to put onions, leeks, car- rots, turnips, &c., into stock; but they are much better omitted, and the fewer the herbs that are used the better, as they prevent it from keeping, and render it less applicable to general purposes. When requisite, sufficient time may always be ob- tained for making use of them. For Veal Stock. Take ten or twelve pounds of the coarser parts of veal, such as the leg, neck, &c., to which add about a pound of lean ham, with the addition of the bone, where it happens to be at hand. Cut the meat into small pieces, chopping or breaking the bones, and putting the whole into two quarts of water, with herbs, &c., to suit the palate, as di- rected in the preparation of the beef stock. Let these ingredients simmer till the meat be nearly tender, but the liquid not discoloured, that it may be fit for white soups, &c. Then add as much of the beef stock as will cover the veal, which may afterwards be kept simmering half an hour longer. Skim it free from fat, strain it through a sieve, and keep it for use, in the same manner as is directed for the beef stock. Thus there are always in com- plete readiness those excellent assistants of the cook, for the various purposes to which they are applicable. Gravy Stork. For a strong gravy stock, take a slice of bacon or lean ham, and lay it in a stewpan; then take a pound of beef, cut it thin, lay it on the bacon, slice a large piece of carrot in, an onion sliced, a good crust of bread, a few sweet herbs, a little mace, cloves, nutmeg, whole pepper, and an an- chovy; cover it, and set it on a slow fire for five or 180 ART OF COOKERY. zix minutes, and pour in a quart of beef stock; cover it close, and let it boil softly till half is wasted : this will be a rich, high-brown gravy, useful for various kinds of soup, sauce, made dishes, &c. Jelly Stock. There is also a jelly stock, which is very useful o keep in the house, and frequently serves as a great improvement to soups and gravies. The mode of preparing it is as follows:--Take a sufficient number of calves' feet, and put them into a stew- pan, with about three pints of water to each foot, and let them boil gently for four hours or longer; then take out the meat part, and put it into cold water. When cold, trim it for any use it is intended; throw the trimmings back into the stock, and let it boil until you think it is come to its proper strength. Four feet should produce about two quarts of stock; and so in proportion. Fish Stock. For this, which will not keep more than two or three days, take a pound of skate, four or five flounders, and two pounds of eels. Clean them well, cut them into pieces, cover them with water, and season them with mace, pepper, salt, an onion stuck with cloves, a head of celery, two parsley- roots sliced, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Simmer it an hour and a half, closely covered, and then strain it off for use. Mock Turtle. In arranging the different kinds of soup and broth, there is no particular order to be followed. We shall, however, commence with Mock Turtle. Take a calf's head, scald and wash it very clean, boil it for half an hour; then cut all the skin off by itself, and take the tongue out. Take some SOUPS AND BROTHS. 181 veal stock, and put the tongue and skin in, with three large onions, half an ounce of cloves and mace, and half a nutmeg, beat very fine, all kinds of sweet herbs, and three anchovies ; stew it all together, and, when tender, take out the meat, cut it in pieces of about two inches square, and the tongue, which must be skinned, in square pieces, the same as the head. Strain off the liquor, put half a pound of butter into the stewpan, melt it, and put in a quarter of a pound of flour, which must be kept stirring till smooth; then add the liquor, stirring it till all is in; if lumpy, it must be again strained through a sieve; then add to it a pint of white wine, season it pretty high, put in force-meat balls, and egg-balls broiled or fried, some lemon juice, and let it stew gently for an hour. If it be too thick, put some broth before stewing it the last time : serve it up quite hot in the tureen. Soup Santé or Gravy Soup. Take turnips and carrots, shred them small with celery-heads about two inches long; wash and steam them separately in a little water till nearly done ; when quite done, cut the white of the celery small, likewise a small quantity of leeks, cabbage, cos lettuces, endive, and chervil ; put all the vege- tables to boil till quite tender, with three quarts of cleared brown consumes ; if in season, add green pease, tops of asparagus, and button onions steamed, &c. You may put in a small piece of bouilli beef stewed; but dry it with a cloth, and put it in the soup with the vegetables when you serve it. This, however, is not very general. Spring Soup The same as the above; but it is called spring soup when turnips and carrots are first to be had. 182 ART OF COOKERY. Soup Julien. · This also is the same as Gravy Soup, or Soup Santé, omitting the lettuce and chervil." Vermicelli Soup. Take three quarts of the common stock, and one of the gravy, mixed together; put a quarter of a pound of vermicelli, blanched in two quarts of water, into the soup; boil it up for ten minutes, and sea- son with salt, if requisite ; put it in a tureen, with a crust of a French roll baked. White Vermicelli Soup. The same as the above, with the addition of the yolks of four eggs, half a pint of cream, and a little salt, mixed well together. Simmer it for five mi- nutes. Be very careful to stir it all the time it is on the fire, otherwise it will curdle. Hare Soup. Take a large hare, cut in pieces; put it into an earthen mug, with three blades of mace, two large onions, a little salt, a red herring, or a couple of anchovies, half a dozen large morels, a pint of red wine, and three quarts of water. Bake it three hours in a quick oven, and then strain the liquor into a stewpan. Have ready boiled four ounces of French barley, which put in ; just scald the liver, and rub it through a sieve with a wooden spoon ; put it into the soup, and set it over the fire, and keep it stirring till near boiling, and then take it off. It must not boil. Put some crisped bread - into the tureen, and pour the soup on it. Partridge Soup. Skin and cut in pieces two large partridges, with three or four slices of ham, a little celery, SOUPS AND BROTHS. 183 and three or four onions. Fry them in butter till brown, but mind they do not burn. Afterwards put them into a stewpan, with three quarts of boiling water, a few pepper-corns, and a little salt. After stewing gently for two hours, strain the soup through a sieve, put it again into the stewpan, with some stewed celery and fried bread. When near boiling, pour it into a tureen, and serve it up quite hot. Another Way. Take the breasts of four partridges, throw away the fat and skins, and put them, for half an hour, into cold water. Cut the meat from the remaining parts, and pound it in a marble mortar. Add four pounds of veal cut small, a slice of lean ham, the above pounded meat, together with the bones, some white pepper and salt, three table-spoonfuls of crumbs of bread, a large onion stuck full of cloves, and some scraped carrots and celery, Stew these in a proper quantity of water, till all the goodness has been drawn from the meat and vegetables. Then strain the soup through a sieve, and take off the fat. Into this soup put the partridge breasts that have till now been preserved, and stew them for half an hour, adding some white pepper, and plenty of pounded mace. Thicken with cream and flour, and serve up in a tureen. Portable Soup. Take two legs of beef, of about fifty pounds' weight, and take off all the skin and fat. Then cut all the meat and sinews clean from the bones, put it into a large pot, and add to it eight or nine gallons of soft water; when it boils, put in twelve anchovies, an ounce of mace, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, an ounce of whole pepper, black and white together, six large onions cut in two, R 2 184 ART OF COOKERY. bunches of sweet herbs, and the crust of a stale two- penny loaf; stir it all together and cover it close ; lay a weight on the cover to keep it close down, and let it boil gently eight.or nine hours; then un- cover it, and stir it together; cover it close again, and let it boil till it is a very fine rich jelly, which you will know by taking a little out now and then, and letting it cool: when thick enough, take it off, strain it through a coarse hair bag, and press it hard; then strain it through a hair sieve into a large earthen pan; when it is quite cold, skim off the fat, and take the fine jelly clear from the settlings at bottom, and put it into a large deep well-tinned stewpan; set it over a stove with a slow fire, stir it often, and take great care it neither sticks to the pan nor burns: when you find the jelly very stiff and thick, as it will be, in lumps about the pan, take it out, and put it into large deep china cups, or well-glazed earthenware, or into inoulds pur- posely made. Fill the pan two-thirds full of water, and when the water boils set your cups in it; but be careful that no water gets into them.. Keep the water boiling softly till you find the jelly is like a stiff glue; then take out the cups, and when they are cool turn out the glue into a coarse new flannel: let it lie till the next day, and then put it into the sun till it is quite hard and dry. Put it into tin boxes, with a piece of writing paper be- tween each piece, and keep them in a dry place. When you use it, pour boiling water on it, and stir it till it is melted ; season with salt to your palate. A piece as big as a large walnut will make a pint of water very rich; if for soup, fry a French roll, and lay it in the middle of the dish, and, when the glue is dissolved in the water, give it a boil, and pour it over it. It is excellent when boiled with either rice or barley, vermicelli, celery cut small, or truffles or morels; but they must be very SOUPS AND BROTHS. 185 tenderly boiled in the water first. You may, when you would have it very fine, add forcemeat balls, cocks’-combs, or a palate boiled very tender and cut into little bits ; but it will be found exceed- ingly good without any of these ingredients. If for gravy, pour the boiling water on to what quantity you think proper; and, when dissolved, add what ingredients you please, as in other sauces. This is a good substitute for a rich made gravy. The sauce may be made either weak or strong, in proportion to what you add. It will, in well-hardened cakes, keep good a considerable length of time, and in all climates. Chesnut Soup. Pick half a hundred of chesnuts, put them into an earthen pan, and set them in the oven half an hour, or roast them gently over a slow fire, but take care they do not burn; then peel them, and set them to stew in a quart of good beef, veal, or mut- ten stock, till they are quite tender. Next take a slice of ham or bacon, a pound of veal, a pigeon beat to pieces, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, a little pepper and mace, and a small carrot; lay the bacon at the bottom of a stewpan, and the meat and ingredients at the top; set it over a slow fire till it begins to stick to the pan. Then put in a crust of bread, and pour in two quarts of com- mon stock; let it boil gently till one-third is wasted, then strain it off, and add the chesnuts ; season with salt, and let it boil till it is well tasted; stew two pigeons in it, and fry a French roll crisp; lay the roll in the middle of the dish, and a pigeon on each side; pour in the soup, and send it up hot. Soup and Bouilli. Stew a brisket of beef, cut it into small square pieces : have some turnips and carrots scraped, R 3 186 ART OF COOKERY. button onions and celery cut in small pieces, and a few cloves; put the pieces of beef in the pot first, then the roots, and about half a pint of stock; put the pan on a slow stove to simmer gently for one hour, then fill it up with best stock and let it boil gently for about half an hour. Ox-Cheek Soup. Break the bones of the cheek, and well wash and clean it : put it into a large stewpan, with about two ounces of butter at the bottom, and lay the fleshy side of the cheek downwards. Add about half a pound of lean ham, sliced. Put in four heads of celery cut small, three large onions, two carrots, one parsnip sliced, and three blades of mace. Set it over a moderate fire for about a quarter of an hour, after which add four quarts of water, and let it simmer gently till it is reduced to two. If you wish to use it as soup only, strain it clear off, and put in the white part of a head of celery, cut in small pieces, with a little browning to make it of a fine colour. Scald two ounces of ver- micelli, and put it into the soup; let it boil for ten minutes, and pour it into your tureen, with the crust of a French roll, and serve it up. If it is to be used as a stew, take up the cheek as whole as possible, and have ready a boiled turnip and carrot cut in square pieces, a slice of bread toasted, and cut small; put in some Cayenne pepper, strain the soup through a hair sieve upon the whole, and serve it up. Ox-Tuil Soup. Two or three ox-tails will make a stronger soup than a larger quantity of meat without them; and is of a very nourishing quality. It should be made like gravy soup. SOUPS AND BROTHS. 187 Beef Broth. Take a leg of beef, with the bone well cracked; wash it clean, and put it into your pan with a gal- lon of water. Skim it well, and put in two or three blades of mace, a small bunch of parsley, and a good crust of bread. Let it boil till the beef and sinews are quite tender. Cut some toasted bread, and put it into your tureen, lay in the meat, and pour the soup all over it. Veal Broth. Take a knuckle of veal, two turnips, two carrots, two heads of celery, and six onions. Stew them in a gallon of water; and when the liquor is re- duced to about one half, add a lump of butter rolled in flour, with a little Cayenne pepper and some salt. Then strain, and add a gill of cream. You may add two ounces of rice, or vermicelli, with good effect. Mutton Broth. Take a neck of mutton of about six pounds, cut it in two, boil the scrag part in a gallon of water, skim it well, and then put in some sweet herbs, an onion, and a good crust of bread. When the scrag has boiled about an hour, put in the other part of the mutton, and, a little before the meat is quite done, put in a turnip or two, some dried marigolds, a few chives with parsley chopped small, and sea- son with salt. You may at first put in a quarter of a pound of barley or rice, which should be soaked before boiling. This both thickens and contributes a grateful flavour. Some people like it thickened with oatmeal, and some with bread; and, instead of sweet herbs and onion, seasoned with mace. If you boil turnips, as sauce to the meat, let them be done separately; otherwise the flavour, by being too powerful, will injure the broth. 188 ART OF COOKERY. Chicken Broth. Take a whole fowl, skin it, cut it down the back, taking away the rump and brown parts. Wash the fowl, put it into three pints of water, with two blades of mace and a spoonful of rice. Let it boil up, skim it, and afterwards cover it close up in the saucepan to simmer for three hours. Parsley may be added. Scotch Barley Broth. Take a leg of beef, chop it all to pieces, boil it in three gallons of water, with a small carrot and a crust of bread, till reduced to half; then strain it off, and put it into the pan, and boil for an hour and half with half a pound of barley, four or five heads of celery cut small, a bunch of sweet herbs, a large onion, a little parsley chopped small, and a few chopped marigolds. Put in a large fowl, and let it continue boiling till the broth is very good. Season it with salt to your taste, take out the onion and sweet herbs, and send it to table with the fowl in the middle. The fowl may or may not be boiled, according to your own discretion, as the broth will be excellent without it. This broth may be made with a sheep's head, which must be chopped in pieces; or six pounds of thick flank of beef, in which case six pounds must be boiled in six quarts of water. Put in the barley with the meat, boil it very gently for an hour, and keep it clear from scum. Then put in the before mentioned ingredients, with turnips and carrots cut into small pieces. Boil all together slowly, till you find the broth very good : season it to your palate. Then take it up, pour the broth into your dish or tureen, put the beef in the mid- dle, with carrots and turnips round the dish, and serve it up. SOUPS AND BROTHS. 189 Scotch Leek Soup. Take toe water tnat has boiled a leg of mutton, put it into a stewpan, with a quantity of chopped leeks, pepper, and salt; simmer them an hour : then mix some oatmeal quite smooth, pour it into the soup, set it on a slow part of the fire, and let it simmer gently; but take care that it does not burn to the bottom. Giblet Soup. Scald and clean three or four sets of goose or duck giblets ; set them on to stew, with a pound or two of gravy beef, scrag of mutton, or the bone of a knuckle of veal, and some shanks of mutton ; add three onions, a large bunch of sweet herbs, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and a large spoonful of salt. Put five pints of water, and simmer till the gizzards are quite tender: skim nicely, and add a quarter of a pint of cream, two tea-spoonfuls of mushroom powder, and an ounce of butter mixed with a dessert-spoonful of flour. Let it boil a few minutes, and serve with the giblets. Instead of cream, season with two glasses of sherry or Madeira, a large spoonful of ketchup, and some Cayenne. When in the tureen add salt, if requisite. Flemish Soup. Slice six onions, cut six heads of celery into small pieces, and slice twelve potatoes : put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, and half a pint of water ; set it on a stove to simmer for an hour; then fill up the stewpan with best stock; let it boil until the potatoes, &c., are dis- solved; then rub it through a tamis, and add a pint of boiled cream to it. SOUPS AND PROTHS. 191 Neat's Foot Soup. Take four pounds of lean mutton, three of beef, and two of veal; cut them crossways, and put them into the pan, with an old fowl, and four or five slices of lean ham. Let them stew, without any liquor, over a very slow fire, but be careful they do not burn to the bottom. As soon as the meat be- gins to stick to the pan, stir it about, and put in some good beef stock; then put in some turnips, carrots, and celery cut small, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a bay-leaf; add some more clear stock, and let it stew about an hour. While this is doing, take a neat's foot, split it, and set on to boil in some of the same stock. When it is very tender take it off, and set on a stewpan with some crusts of bread, with some more stock, and let it soak eight or ten minutes. When the liquor is stewed till it tastes rich, lay the crusts in a tureen, and the two halves of the foot upon them. Then pour in the soup, season it, and serve it up. Italian Soup. Blanch off some Italian paste, put it into a stew- pan, with as much veal stock as is requisite for the quantity wanted, and boil it half an hour. If the soup should be white, add a liaison. To make a Liaison. For two quarts of soup, take the yolks of six eggs; beat them up by degrees in a pint of boiled cream; strain through a hair sieve, and add a spoonful of bechemel. Take the pan off the fire when you stir in the eggs, set it on the fire again, and keep stirring till it comes to a boil, otherwise the eggs will curdle. Add a lump of sugar, and salt for seasoning. 192 ART OF COOK ERY. Soup a la Flamond. Shred turnips, carrots, celery, and onions, very fine; add lettuce, chervil, asparagus, and peas ; put them into a stewpan with about two ounces of butter, and a few spoonfuls of stock ; set them on a slow stove to simmer for an hour, then fill up the stewpan with the best stock, and let it boil very slowly for an hour. Add a liaison. Asparagus Soup. Cut half a pound of fat bacon into thin slices, put them in the bottom of a stewpan, then add five or six pounds of lean beef cut in lumps, and rolled in flour ; cover your pan close, stirring it now and then till the gravy is drawn ; then add two quarts of water, and half a pint of ale. Cover, and let it stew gently for an hour, with some whole pepper and salt; then strain off the liquor, and skim off the fat : put in the leaves of white beets, some spinach, some cabbage lettuce, a little mint, some sorrel, and a little sweet marjoram powdered ; let these boil up in the liquor, then put in the green tops of asparagus cut small, and let them boil till all is tender. Serve it up hot, with a French roll in the middle. White Pottage, with a Chick in the Middle. Take an old fowl, a knuckle of veal, a scrag of mutton, some spice, some sweet herbs, and onions; boil all together till strong enough; have ready some barley boiled very white, and strain some of it through a cullender; have some bread ready roasted in a dish, with a fowl in the middle; some green herbs, minced chervil, spinach, and sorrel ; pour some of the broth to your bread, herbs, and chick; add barley well strained, stew all together a little while in the dish, and serve it up. SOUPS ANL BROTIS. - 193 Brown Pottage. Cut some gravy beef into thin collops, and beat them well with a rolling-pin; put your stewpan over the fire, with a piece of butter, and some thin slices of bacon. When browned, put in your beef; let that likewise stew till very brown; put in a lit- tle flour, and fill up the stewpan with some best stock; add two onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, some cloves, mace, and pepper ; let all stew toge- ther an hour, covered close : lay some toasted bread in your dish, and strain some of the broth to it ; put a fowl in the middle, with a little boiled spinach minced round it. Almond Soup. Take a quart of almonds, beat them in a marble mortar, with the yolks of six hard eggs, till they become a fine paste. Mix with them, by degrees, two quarts of new milk, a quart of cream, and a quarter of a pound of double-refined sugar : beat the whole very fine, and stir it well together. When properly mixed, set it over a slow fire, and stir it quickly till you find it of a good thickness: then take it off, pour it into your dish, and it is ready for serving. A White Soup. Take a knuckle of veal, a large fowl, and a shank of ham ; put them into a saucepan with six quarts of water : add half a pound of rice, two an- chovies, some peppercorns, a bundle of sweet herbs, two onions, and a head of celery. Stew them al- together, till the soup is as strong as you would have it, and strain it through a hair sieve into an earthen pan. Let it stand all night, and the next day skim it carefully, and pour it into a stewpan. Put in half a pound of sweet almonds beat fine, boil it for about a quarter of an hour, and strain it through a fine sieve. Add a liaison. 194 ART OF COOKERY. Flemish Soup. Wash, slice, and peel twelve potatoes, and half a dozen onions; cut six or eight heads of celery into small pieces. Put them in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, and about a pint of water; let it simmer for an hour. Fill the stew- pan up with veal stock, and, having boiled it till the potatoes are dissolved, rub it through a sieve, put in a pint of cream, and keep it hot in a small soup-pan till served up. Soup a la Sap. Boil half a pound of grated potatoes, a pound of beef sliced thin, a pint of grey peas, an onion, and a quarter of a pound of rice, in six pints of water. When done, strain it through a cullender; then pulp the peas to it, and turn it into a saucepan again, with two heads of celery sliced. Stew it tender, add pepper and salt to taste, and, when you serve, add fried bread. Cray Fish Soup. Boil till of a middling thickness three quarts of veal stock, the crumb of four French rolls, the meat of a hen lobster, and half a hundred cray-fish pounded, with some live lobster spawn; skim, and rub it through a tamis cloth; season it with salt and Cayenne pepper. Cut the crust of French bread into small round pieces when served up. Oyster Soup. Take two quarts of fish stock, beat the yolks of ten hard eggs, with the hard part of a pint of oys- ters, in a mortar, and add them to the stock. Sim- mer it all for half an hour; then strain it off, and put it and the oysters (nicely washed and bearded) SOUPS AND BROTHS. 195 into the pan. Simmer it five minutes : have ready the yolks of six raw eggs well beaten, and add them to the soup. Stir it on the fire till it is thick and smooth, but do not let it boil. Serve all to- gether. Lobster Soup. Take two small cod, wash and cut them into small pieces. Put the fish into a stewpan with some onions, celery, turnips, carrots, parsnips, a bunch of sweet herbs, two anchovies, and two quarts of water. Stew it slowly two hours; then strain, and put to the soup the flesh of three lob- sters cut small, and thicken with a bit of butter rolled in flour. Take some pieces of the fish, some crumbs of bread, sweet herbs, a piece of butter, four yolks of eggs, and one anchovy, and form them into balls, to be put into the soup. Add the crust of a French roll. Season to the taste, and simmer for the space of fifteen minutes, when it will be ready to serve. Rice Soup. Put a pound of rice and a little cinnamon into two quarts of water. Cover close, and let it sim- mer till the rice is quite tender. Take out the cin- namon, sweeten it to your taste, grate in half a nut- meg, and let it stand till it is cold. Then add a liaison. Another Way. Wash a handful of rice in warm water, put it into a stewpan, with as much stock as it is wanted to make, and let it simmer slowly for two hours. Season it to your taste, and serve it up. Rice Soup, with a Chick in the Middle. Blanch about half a pound of rice, put it into a stewpan with one or two chickens, and a quart of s 2 196 ART OF COOKERY. best stock; set the stewpan on a stove to boil slowly, until the chickens are very tender, and the rice the same; add as much stock as will fill the tureen : skim the fat very clean from the soup. Carrot Soup. Put six large onions into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, and four heads of celery; grate the red part of six large carrots, and put them into the stewpan with the celery, and a pint of stock; place the pan over a slow fire to simmer for an hour; then add two quarts of stock, and the crumb of two French rolls ; let it boil for a quarter of an hour; then rub all through a tamis, and put the soup into a small soup-pot to keep hot, but do not let it boil. Turnip Soup. Put about a quarter of a pound of butter and half a pint of stock into a stewpan, and eight or ten turnips, and six onions, sliced very thin ; set it over a fire to do gently for an hour; then put two quarts of good stock, and let it boil gently for another hour ; rub it through a tamis cloth ; return it into the stewpan to keep hot, but do not let it boil after it is rubbed through. Onion Soup. Put half a pound of butter into a stewpan on the fire ; let it boil till it has done making a noise ; then have ready ten or twelve large onions peeled and cut small, throw them into the butter, and fry them a quarter of an hour; then shake in a little flour, and stir them round; shake your pan, and let them remain on a few minutes longer ; pour in a quart or three pints of boiling water; stir them round ; throw in a piece of upper stale crust cut small; season with salt; let it boil ten minutes, and stir it often ; SOUPS AND BROTHS. 197 then take it off the fire, beat the yolks of two eggs very fine, with half a spoonful of vinegar; mix some of the soup with them, then stir and mix well into your soup, pour it into your dish, and serve it as hot as possible. Eel Soup. Take eels according to the quantity of soup you wish to make ; to every pound of eels put a quart of water ; then add a crust of bread, two or three blades of mace, some whole pepper, an onion, and a bundle of sweet herbs; cover them close, and let them boil till half the liquor is wasted ; then strain it, and toast some bread, cut it small, lay it into the dish, and pour into your soup ; set the dish over a stove for a minute, and send it to table hot. Should your soup not be rich enough, you must let it boil till the liquor is more reduced. Add a piece of carrot to brown it. Soup Maigre. Take some middling-sized onions, a handful of lettuce cut small, two heads of celery, and one turnip. Slice these ingredients very thin, and fry them in half a bound of butter, till they are brown. Put in your pan four quarts of boiling water, add four anchovies, four blades of mace, a tea-spoonful of beaten pepper, some salt, three blades of mace, and two French rolls. Boil altogether till the bread is reduced to a pulp. Then strain through a hair sieve, and set it again upon the fire. Skim it well, and thicken with the yolks of three eggs. When sent up, add fried bread cut small, or a French roll. Milk Soup. Put two sticks of cinnamon, two bay-leaves, a small quantity of basket salt, and a little sugar, s 3 198 ART OF COOKERY. into two quarts of new milk. While these are heating, blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, and beat them to a paste in a marble mortar. Mix some milk with them, a little at a time, and while they are heating, grate some lemon-peel with the almonds, and add a little of the juice; after which strain it through a coarse sieve ; mix all together, and boil it up. Cut some slices of French bread, dry them before the fire, soak them a little in the milk, lay them in the tureen, pour in the soup, and serve it up hot. Milk Soup, the Dutch Way. Take a quart of milk, boil it with cinnamon and moist sugar; put some sippets in a dish, pour the milk over them, and set the whole over a charcoal fire to simmer till the bread is soft; take the yolks of two eggs, beat them up, and mix them with a little of the milk, and throw it in ; mix it altogether, and serve it up. Spinach Soup. Take two handfuls of spinach, a turnip, two onions, a head of celery, two carrots, and a little thyme and parsley. Put them into a stewpan, with a bit of butter of the size of a walnut, and a pint of stock; stew till the vegetables are quite tender; work them through a coarse cloth, or sieve, with a spoon; then to the pulp of the vegetables, and liquor, put a quart of fresh water, pepper, and salt, and boil all together. Have ready some suet dumplings, the size of a walnut; and, before you put the soup into the tureen, put them into it. The suet must be quite fresh. Egg Soup. Break the yolks of two eggs into a dish with a piece of butter as big as an egg ; take a tea-kettle 200 ART OF COOKERY. White Peas Soup. Take a pint of white peas, either split or whole, but whole in preference, and, after having steeped them in cold water one hour, put them into a pot. with about a quart of water, and let them boil till they become sufficiently tender to be pulped through a sieve; then put them into a stewpan, with some good stock, together with white pepper and salt. Boil for half an hour, and serve up with fried bread, and a little dried mint. Another Way. Put a pint of split peas into three quarts of water, and boil them gently till perfectly dissolved; then pulp them through a sieve, and return them into the water, with some carrots, turnips, celery, leeks, thyme, sweet marjoram, onions, three an- chovies, a few pepper-corns, and a lump of butter rolled in flour. When sufficiently stewed, strain, and put to the soup some browning. Add ketchup and salt, send up with fried bread cut into small squares, and a little dried mint. Spanish Peas Soup. Take one pound of Spanish peas, and lay them in water all night ; take a gallon of water, a quart of fine sweet oil, and a head of garlic ; cover the pan close, and let it boil till the peas are soft ; season with pepper and salt ; then beat the yolk of an egg, add vinegar to your palate ; poach some eggs, lay on the dish on sippets, and pour the soup on them : serve it up hot. Peas Porridge. Put a quart of green peas, a bundle of dried mint, and a little salt, into a quart of water ; let them boil till the peas are quite tender ; then put GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 201 in some beaten pepper, a piece of butter as big as a walnut, rolled in flour; stir it altogether, and let it boil a few minutes ; add two quarts of milk, let it boil a quarter of an hour longer, take out the mint, and serve it up. - GRAVIES AND SAUCES. Simple as the process may be thought, there are so few people who know how to perform it well, that we shall offer no apology for commencing this division with instructions for preparing Melted Butter. Take a quarter of a pound of butter, with two tea-spoonfuls of cream. Shake the saucepan over a clear fire till the butter is completely melted. Shake it only one way, and be careful not to put the saucepan upon the fire. Another Way. Mix, on a clean trencher, a little flour with a large piece of butter, in the proportion of a tea- spoonful to a quarter of a pound; put into a sauce- pan, and pour on it two spoonfuls of hot water. Set it on the fire, and let it boil quickly. You must stir it one way, and serve up as soon as it is ready. Family Cullis. Take a piece of butter rolled in flour, stir it in your stewpan till the flour is of a fine yellow colour ; then put in some common stock, a little gravy, a glass of white wine, a bundle of parsley, thyme, laurel, and sweet basil, two cloves, some nutmeg 202 ART OF COOKERI. or mace, a few mushrooms, pepper and salt. Let it stew an hour over a slow fire, then skim all the fat clean off, and strain it through a lawn sieve. Cullis for Ragouts, g-c. Cut two pounds of veal, and a few slices of lean ham ; put them into a stewpan, with some cloves, a little nutmeg, and a blade of mace, some parsley roots, two carrots cut in pieces, a few shalots, and a couple of bay-leaves. Set them over a slow fire, cover close, and let them do gently for half an hour, taking care they do not burn : then put in some beef stock, let it stew till it is as rich as required, and strain it for use. Fish Cullis. Broil a jack or pike, then take off the skin, and separate the flesh from the bones. Boil six eggs hard, take out the yolks ; blanch a few almonds, beat them to a paste in a mortar, and then add the yolks of the eggs; mix these well with butter, put in your fish, and pound all together. Take half a dozen onions, and cut them into slices, two pars- nips, and three carrots. Set on a stewpan, with a piece of butter to brown; and when it boils, put in the roots, turn them till brown, and pour in a little stock to moisten them. When boiled a few minutes, strain it into another saucepan; put in a leek, some parsley, sweet basil, half a dozen cloves, some mushrooms and truffles, and a few crumbs of bread. When it has stewed gently a quarter of an hour, put in the fish, &c. from the mortar. Let the whole stew some time longer, but without boil- ing. When sufficiently done, strain it through a hair sieve. This is good sauce to thicken most made dishes. GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 203 . Cullis of Roots. Cut carrots, parsnips, parsley roots, and onions in slices ; set them in a stewpan over the fire, and continue shaking them. Pound them in a mortar with two dozen of blanched almonds, and the crumbs of two French rolls, soaked in good fish stock, and then boil them all together. Season with pepper and salt, strain it off, and use it for herb or fish soups. Glaze for Lardings, fc. The stock that is intended for this use must be as clear as possible, and of a pale colour (if the stock is not clear, it must be made so with eggs, and run through a jelly bag); boil it over the fire, until it hangs to the spoon; when done, put it into a glaze kettle. This kettle is made similar to a milk kettle, and of the best double block tin. When the glaze is wanted for use, put the kettle into a stewpan of water by the side of a stove. White Braise. Take the udder of a leg of veal, put it into a stewpan, with some cold water, and let it come to a boil; then put it into cold water for a few minutes, after which cut it in small pieces, and put them into a stewpan, with a bit of butter, some onions, a bundle of thyme and parsley, a little mace, a lemon pared and sliced, and a spoonful of water; put it over a slow stove, and stir it for a few minutes; then add white stock, according to the quantity you want to braise. It is generally used for tenderones of lamb, chicken, or any thing you wish to look white. Brown Braise. Take some beef suet, with any trimmings you may have; put them into a stewpan, with some 204 ART OF COOKERY. onions, thyme, parsley, basil, marjoram, mace, and a sliced carrot; put it over the fire ; add a bit of butter, a little stock, a few bay-leaves, and six heads of celery, in the stewpan ; let it draw down for half an hour; then fill it up with second stock and add a little white wine to it. Dry Braise. Put the trimmings of beef, mutton, or veal, with a few onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, a little mace, and a few bay-leaves, into a stewpan; put as much second stock as will come about three parts up to the meat; cover it with bacon, or the fat of ham ; then lay on that which you intend to be braised; it is the best method of doing all larded things; they take rather longer in doing, but eat much better, and the bacon looks better by the liquid being kept from it. Bechemel, or Beshemell. This is a stiff white sauce, somewhat in the nature of cream, but considerably thicker, and even approaching to a butter. Take common veal stock ; boil, skim, and thicken it with flour and water, or a piece of butter rolled in flour; add some more veal stock, and, when sufficiently boiled, strain it off; put cream enough to make it entirely white, and of the consistency of a light batter ; then just simmer it together, but do not suffer it to boil above a minute or two, which would injure the colour. Beef Gravy. Cut a piece of the chuck, or neck, into small pieces ; strew some flour over it; put it into the saucepan, with as much water as will cover it, an onion, a little allspice, pepper, and salt. Cover it close, and when it boils, skim it ; then throw in a crust of bread and some raspings, and stew it till the gravy is rich and good; strain it off, and pour it into the sauce-boat. GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 205 A very rich Gravy. Take some strong beef and veal stock, into which put a slice or two of carrot, an onion, some mace, cloves, pepper, and sweet herbs. Stew it some time; add a piece of butter, rolled in flour; set it over a slow fire for six or seven minutes, shaking the saucepan often; then season it with salt, and strain it off. This gravy is rich enough to answer every purpose. Gravy for a Fowl without Meat.- Take the neck, liver, and gizzard; boil them in half a pint of water, with a little piece of bread toasted brown, pepper and salt, and a bit of thyme ; let them boil till reduced to a quarter of a pint; add half a glass of red wine, boil and strain it, and bruise the liver well, and strain it again, and thicken with a little piece of butter rolled in flour. An ox-kidney, or milt, makes good gravy, cut to pieces, and prepared as other meat; as will the shank-end of mutton that has been dressed. Strong Fish Gravy. Take two or three eels, or such fish as you may happen to have ; skin and wash them from grit, cut them into little pieces, put them into a sauce- pan, cover them with water; put in a crust of bread toasted brown, a blade or two of mace, some whole pepper, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a bit of lemon-peel. Let it boil till it is rich and good, then have ready a piece of butter, according to your gravy; put it into the saucepan, shake in a little flour, and toss it about till it is brown, and then strain in the gravy to it. Let it boil a few minutes. Brown Gravy for Lent. Melt butter, the size of an egg, in a saucepan , shake in a little flour, and brown it by degrees ; 206 ART OF COOKERY. stir in half a pint of water, and half a pint of ale or small beer which is not bitter; an onion, a piece of chopped lemon-peel, three cloves, a blade of mace, some whole pepper, a spoonful of mushroom pickle, a spoonful of ketchup, and an anchovy. Boil all together a quarter of an hour, and strain it. It is an excellent sauce for various dishes. Gravy to make Mutton eat like Venison. Pick a stale woodcock, and (after having taken out the bag from the entrails) cut it to pieces, and simmer it with as much unseasoned meat-gravy as you will want. Strain it, and serve in the dish. Veal Gravy. Make it as directed for Family Cullis, but leave out the spice, herbs, and flour. To draw Gravy. Put a little bacon into a stewpan, and cover it; some slices of onion, with what meat the gravy is intended to be drawn from. Stew the whole over a slow fire, till it sticks to the bottom of the stew- pan, but without burning ; then add a little stock, and, after it has boiled half an hour, strain it off. Sauce for Pig. Chop the brains a little, put in a tea-spoonful of white gravy that runs from the pig, and a small piece of anchovy. Mix them with about half a pound of butter, and as much flour as will thicken the gravy, a slice of lemon, a spoonful of white wine, some caper-liquor, and a little salt. Shake it over the fire, and pour it into the dish. Or boil a few currants, and send them up, with a glass of currant jelly in the middle. Or cut off the outside of a small loaf, cut the rest into thin slices, and put it into a saucepan of GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 207 cold water, with an onion, some pepper-corns, and a little salt. Boil it till fine, beat it well, and put in a quarter of a pound of butter, and two spoon- fuls of thick cream. Sauce for Venison or Hare. Currant jelly warmed. Or a pint of red wine, with a quarter of a pound of sugar, simmered over a clear fire for five or six minutes. Or a pint of vinegar, with a quarter of a pound of sugar; simmer till a syrup. Or boil an ounce of dried currants in half a pint of water a few minutes ; then add a small cupful of crumbs of bread, six cloves, a glass of port wine, and a bit of butter. Stir it till the whole is smooth. Sauce for a green Goose, Take some melted butter, and put into it a spoon- ful of sorrel-juice, and a few coddled gooseberries. Gooseberry Sauce. The same as the preceding, only add a little ginger. Marinade. Boil some gravy, vinegar, whole black pepper, a few bay-leaves, onions sliced, a clove of garlic, and a little thyme, all together, and strain it off. Sauce for a Turkey. Open a pint of oysters into a basin, wash them from their liquor, and put them into another basin. Pour the liquor, as soon as settled, into a saucepan, and put to it a little white gravy, and a tea-spoon- ful of lemon-pickle. Thicken with flour and butter, and boil it three or four minutes. Put in a spoon- ful of thick cream, and then the oysters. Shake them over the fire till quite hot, but do not let them boil. T 2 208 ART OF COOKERY. Another Way. Take off the crust of a roll, or small loaf, and cut the rest in thin slices. Put it in cold water, with a little salt, an onion, and a few pepper-corns. Boil it till quite soft, and then beat it well. Put in a quarter of a pound of butter, and two spoon- fuls of cream. Ilam Sauce. Take some thin slices of the lean part of a dressed ham, and beat them to a mash. Put it into a saucepan, with a tea-cupful of gravy stock; set it over a slow fire, and stir it to prevent its sticking at the bottom. When it has been on some time, put in a bunch of sweet herbs, half a pint of beef gravy, and some pepper. Cover it, let it stew over a gentle fire, and, when done, strain it off. uam Essence of Ham. Cut three or four pounds of lean ham into pieces of about an inch thick ; lay them in a stewpan, with slices of carrots, parsnips, and three or four onions cut thin Let them stew till they stick to the pan, but do not let it burn; then pour on some strong veal gravy by degrees, some fresh mushrooms, or some mushroom powder, truffles, and morels, cloves, basil, parsley, a crust of bread, and a leek. Cover it close, and when it has simmered till it is of a good thickness and flavour, strain it off. If you have the gravy from a dressed ham, you may use it with the before-mentioned ingredients, instead of the ham, which will make it equally good, but not quite so high flavoured. Lamb Sauce. Take a bit of butter, and mix it with shred parsley, shalots, and a little crumb of bread grated GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 209 very fine. Put the whole into a stewpan with a glass of good stock, and the same quantity of white wine ; let it boil some little time. Season it with pepper and salt; and when you use it, squeeze a lemon into it. Sauce for all kinds of Roast Meat. Take an anchovy, wash it clean, and put to it a glass of red wine, some gravy stock, a shalot cut small, and a little juice of lemon. Stew all toge- ther, strain, and mix it with the gravy that runs from the meat. Sauce for Wild Fowls. Simmer a tea-cupful of port wine, the same quantity of good gravy, a little shalot, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and mace, for ten minutes ; put in a bit of butter and Aour, give it all one boil, and pour it through the birds. Another for the same, or for Ducks. Serve some rich gravy in the dish, cut the breast into slices, but do not take them off; cut a lemon and put pepper and salt on it; then squeeze it on the breast, and pour a spoonful of gravy over before it is served. Robart Sauce for Steaks, &c. Take a bay leaf, an onion sliced, a blade of mace, a little mustard, and a gill of Rhenish wine ; put them into some cullis, boil it a quarter of an hour, strain it, and reduce it nearly to a glaze. Celery Sauce. Boil celery-heads three inches long, in a little stock, till nearly done and the liquor almost wasted T3 210 ART OF COOKERY. away ; then add some bechemel, and, if approved, five minutes before the sauce is put over the meat or poultry, add a liaison. Fennel Sauce for Mackerel. Wash and boil green fennel, mint, and parsley, a little of each, till tender; drain and press them, chop them fine, and add melted butter ; serve up immediately. If the herbs mix long with the but- ter, they will be discoloured. Onion Sauce. Boil some large onions in plenty of water, till they are very tender; put them into a cullender, and, when drained, pass them through it with a spoon ; then put them into a clean saucepan, with a piece of butter, a little salt, and a gill of cream. Stir them over the fire till they are of a good thickness. Spanish Onion Sauce. Braise six Spanish onions with beef, till three- parts done ; then peel them, and add some good cullis ; season with Cayenne pepper, salt, lemon- juice, and a little sifted lump sugar, and stew them till tender. Parsley and Butter. Wash some parsley quite clean, tie it up in a bunch, boil it till it is quite soft, shred it fine, and mix it with melted butter. Parsley and Butter, when there is no Parsley. Take a little parsley-seed, tie it up in a clean rag, and boil it for ten minutes ; take out the seeds, and let the water cool a little. Take as much of GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 211 the liquor as you want, put it to your butter. Shred a little boiled spinach, and put into it for the colour. Mushroom Sauce, for Fowls, fc. Put half a pint, or a pint, of fresh mushrooms, well cleaned and washed, into a stewpan, with a little butter, a blade of mace, and a little salt; stew it gently for half an hour. Add a liaison. Squeeze in half a lemon. Another Way, for Boiled Fowls. Take half a pint of cream, and a quarter of a pound of butter ; stir them together one way till it is thick; then add a spoonful of mushroom pickle, pickled mushrooms, or fresh ones if vou have them. Shalot Sauce. Peel, and cut small, five or six shalots; put them into a saucepan, with two spoonfuls of white wine, two of water, and two of vinegar ; give them a boil up, and pour them into a dish, with a little pepper and salt. Lemon Sauce, for Boiled Fowls. Pare off the rind of a lemon, slice it small, and take out all the kernels ; bruise the liver of the fowl, with two or three spoonfuls of good gravy stock; then melt some butter, mix all together, give them a boil, and add a little of the lemon- peel. Mint Sauce. Chop mint very small, and put to it vinegar and sugar. Turnip Sauce. Pare and wash four turnips ; put them into a saucepan, and let them simmer till the liquor is 212 ART OF COOKERY. nearly wasted ; then rub them through a tamis sieve. Add a small quantity of bechemel. Cut more turnips in slices, as for a harricot. Simmer in the same manner, and add more bechemel. Sorrel Sauce. Wash, squeeze, and chop fine, plenty of sorrel, and put it into a stew pan with a bit of fresh butter; stew it till the liquor is nearly wasted, and add a little strong cullis. The sauce must be of a good thickness. Salad Sauce. Take the hard yolks of two eggs, a dessert- spoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, a little mustard, a dessert-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, and a spoonful of ketchup. When well incorpo- rated, add four spoonfuls of salad oil, and one of elder vinegar. Beat it so as to incorporate the oil with the other ingredients. Russian Sauce. Grate four spoonfuls of horse-radish; to which add two tea-spoonfuls of made mustard, a little salt, a tea-spoonful of sugar, and as much vinegar as will just cover the ingredients. To crisp Parsley. Pick and wash your parsley quite clean; put it into a Dutch oven, or on a sheet of paper. Set it at a moderate distance from the fire, and keep turning it till crisp. Lay little bits of butter on it, but not to make it greasy. This is better than frying. Caper Sauce. Put a few capers into a little cullis, a few drops of anchovy-essence, squeeze a lemon, and put a GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 213 little dust of sugar; if for meagre, make the sauce from fish stock. Carrot Sauce. Cut the red part of a small carrot into small dice, boil them in a little best stock until they come to a glaze; then add cullis according to the quantity required. Italian Sauce, Brown. Chop a few mushrooms, shalots, and truffles ; put them into a stewpan with some stock, and a glass of white wine; boil it a few minutes, and add a spoonful of cullis ; squeeze in either a Seville orange or a lemon, and a small bit of sugar. Italian Sauce, White. Put some chopped truffles and shalots into a stewpan, with a slice of ham ; mince it very small and put a little stock. Simmer it a quarter of an hour; add bechemel, according to the quantity re- quired. Let it boil a minute; if it loses its colour, put a spoonful of cream to it, and strain it through a tamis cloth ; season with salt, a few drops of garlic vinegar, a squeeze of lemon, and a bit of sugar. Chervil Sauce. Pick a large handful of chervil leaf by leaf; put it into a small stewpan, with a little best stock; simmer it until the pan becomes dry; then add as much cullis as is requisite; squeeze a lemon, and put a little sugar to make it palatable, and a little white wine. Flemish Sauce. Boil a sprig of thyme, two shalots, and a bit of lemon-peel, for a few minutes, in some best stock ; 214 ART OF COOKERY. strain it off, and add some cullis; season with pep- per and salt, a squeeze of lemon, and a bit of sugar. Stewed Olive Sauce. Take some of the greenest French olives, stone them carefully, and stew them in as much veal stock as is requisite ; add some lemon-juice, and season with Cayenne ppper and salt. Apple Sauce. Pare, core, and slice your apples ; put them in a saucepan over a very slow fire, with as much water as will keep them from burning; put in a bit of lemon-peel, keep them close covered till they are all of a pulp, put in a lump of butter and sugar to your taste. Bread Sauce. Cut a large onion into four, boil it with some black pepper and milk till the onion is reduced to a pap: Pour the milk strained on grated stale bread, and cover it. In an hour put it into a saucepan, with a piece of butter mixed with a little flour ; boil the whole up together and serve. Cucumber Sauce. Peel the cucumbers, and cut them into quarters, take out all the seed, cut each quarter into three pieces, pare them round, peel as many small onions as pieces of cucumber; let them lie for two hours in some vinegar and water ; pepper and salt them ; pour off the vinegar and water, and put as much stock as will just cover them; boil them down to a glaze; add as much cullis as you think proper; let it boil for a few minutes, squeeze a lemon, and put a little sugar. GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 215 Alamande Sauce. Put a few trimmings of ham, with a few of poultry either dressed or undressed ; three or four shalots, a small clove of garlic, a bay-leaf, two tarragon-leaves, and a few spoonfuls of stock ; let them simmer for half an hour; strain it off, and add cullis ; squeeze in a lemon ; season with pep- per and salt, and a little Cayenne pepper. Royal Sauce, either White or Brown. Cut a chick to pieces, with about half a pound of lean ham, six or eight shalots, a bundle of thyme and parsley, and a few blades of mace; put all into a stewpan, with a little stock to draw it down ; when down, add cullis to it, and strain it through a tamis cloth, season it with lemon, &c. If for white, use bechemel instead of cullis. Pontiff Sauce. Put two or three slices of lean veal, and the same of ham, into a stewpan, with some sliced onions, carrots, parsley, and a head of celery. When brown, add a little white wine, some good stock, a clove of garlic, four shalots, two cloves, a little coriander, and two slices of lemon-peel. Boil it slowly till the juices are extracted from the meat; then skim it, and strain it through a sieve. Just before you use it add some cullis and chopped parsley. Egg Sauce. Boil two eggs till they are hard ; first chop the whites, then the yolks, but neither of them very fine, and put them together. Add to them a quarter of a pound of good melted butter, and stir them well together. 216 ART OF COOKERY. A Sauce for cold Partridges, Moor Game, fc. Pound four anchovies, and two cloves of garlic, shalot, or onion, in a marble mortar, with a little salt; add oil and lemon-juice, or vinegar, to the taste. Mince the meat, and put the sauce to it as wanted. Sauce for a Savoury Pie. Take some cullis, some anchovy, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little mushroom liquor ; boil them a little, and thicken with burnt butter ; add a little red wine, open your pie, and put it in. This serves for mutton, lamb, veal, or beef pies. Force-Meat Balls. Take half a pound of veal, and half a pound of suet cut fine, and beat them in a marble mortar or wooden bowl ; shred in a few sweet herbs fine, a little mace dried, a nutmeg grated, a little lemon- peel cut fine, some pepper and salt, and the yolks of two eggs. Mix all well together, then roll some of it into little round balls, and some in long pieces. Roll them in flour, and fry them of a nice brown. If they are for the use of white sauce, do not fry them, but put a little water into a sauce- pan, and, when it boils, put them in ; a few minutes will do them White Sauce for Carp, &c. Put an onion, a few shalots, and three ancho- vies, into half a pint of cream. After boiling them up together, put in two ounces of butter, with the yolks of two eggs, and a little elder or white wine vinegar, according to palate ; stir it continually while over the fire, to prevent curdling. Many prefer this sauce to that made with red port, or even with claret. GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 217 Lobster Sauce. Cut a hen lobster into pieces about the size of dice; put the spawn into a mortar, with a bit of butter, and four anchovies; pound them together, and rub it through a hair sieve ; put the lobster that is cut into a stewpan with about half a pint of stock, a bit of butter rolled in flour; set it over a stove, and keep stirring it till it boils: if not thick enough, put a little flour and water, and boil it again; then put the spawn in, and give it a sim- mer; it the spawn boils, it is apt to spoil the co- lour of the sauce; put a little lemon-pickle and corach, and squeeze in half a lemon. Crab sauce is made exactly the same way. For meagre use water instead of stock. Shrimp Sauce. Pick your shrimps, and put them into a stewpan with a little stock; when hot, pour in melted but- ter and a little anchovy essence: squeeze a lemon, and put a little lemon pickle and corach. Anchovy Sauce. Put anchovy essence into a boat with a little lemon-pickle and corach, and add melted butter. Dutch Sauce. Slice an onion, put it into a stewpan with a little scraped horse-radish, two anchovies, some elder vinegar, and some second stock ; boil it for ten minutes, strain it through a hair sieve, return it into the stewpan, and make a liaison of two eggs; put it to the sauce, and set it on the fire till it comes to a boil. Oyster Sauce. Blanch the oysters, strain them, and preserve their liquor; wash and beard them, drain and put 218 ART OF COOKERY. them into a stewpan, with a piece of fresh butter, and the oyster liquor free from sediment; some flour and water to thicken it; season with lemon- juice, anchovy liquor, a little Cayenne pepper, a spoonful of ketchup, and a bit of lemon-peel. When it boils skim it, and let it simmer five minutes. Muscle and cockle sauce may be made in the same way. Quin's Sauce. Put two spoonfuls of Quin's Sauce into a little rich melted butter. A very nice Sauce for any kind of Fish. Take a little of the water that drains from your fish; add an equal quantity of veal stock. When boiled enough, put it into a saucepan with a whole onion, one anchovy, a spoonful of ketchup, and a glass of white wine; thicken it with a lump of butter rolled in flour, and a spoonful of cream. You may, if preferred, use red wine; but, if so, leave out the cream. Piquant Sauce. Put two sliced onions, with a piece of butter, into a stewpan ; a carrot, parsnip, a turnip, a little thyme, sorrel, basil, two cloves, two shalots, a clove of garlic, and some parsley ; turn it over the fire till well coloured; then shake in a little flour, and inoisten it with some stock, and a spoonful of vinegar. Let it boil gently a few minutes, then skim and strain it through a sieve; season with salt and pepper. Piquant Sauce, to serve cold. Cut salad herbs fine, with half a clove of garlic and two shalots; mix the whole with mustard, vinegar, and pepper. MADE DISHES. 219 M A DE DISHES. General Observations. The vessels and covers must be perfectly clean, quite free from sand, and well tinned. White sauces should have a certain tartness. Before you add either eggs or cream, let the other ingredients be well mixed, and make it of a proper consistence; as neither eggs nor cream will thicken it. Do not stir them with a spoon, neither must they be put on the fire after the eggs and cream are put in. Hold your saucepan at a proper distance over the fire, and shake it round one way. Whatever is dressing must be taken out with a fish slice, and the sauce must be strained to it: this will keep it clear. In browning, let no fat remain at the top. Wine or anchovy must be put in some time before the dish is ready. Forcemeat balls must be well drained from the fat; they must not boil in the sauce, but be put after the meat is dished up. In most made dishes, forcemeat-balls, morels, truffles, artichoke bottoms, and pickled mushrooms, may be used with advantage; in many dishes a roll of forcemeat may supply the place of balls, which is preferable when it can be used with pro- priety. Plain Manner of dressing Turtle. After you have killed your turtle, scald it till the outside skin is quite off, and the turtle open all round, where the upper and under shells join. Re serve the largest shell, which is callipash, for baking a part of it. Make a savory forcemeat, mixed with the entrails and lungs, (when nicely u 2 220 ART OF COOKERY. cleaned and scalded,) with as much white wine as will make it palatable; then stuff the flesh that cleaves to the deep shell with some of your force- meat, and make what remains into long and round balls, which must be very highly seasoned. Make a paste of flour and water, and put it over the shell, and at the neck part, to keep in the gravy while stewing. Before sending to the oven, put some clear veal stock to it. After this, cut the soft part of the shell, with the flesh which belongs to it, into handsome pieces, and stew them with the fins, and what remains of the entrails, (the liver must always be dressed separately,) and sea- son them likewise very high. When stewed quite tender, and the other part is taken out of the aven, mix all together in the deep shell. Garnish with the fins, yolks of eggs boiled hard, forcemeat balls, and small patties. A Mock Turtle. Take a calf's head with the skin on, halve and clean it; half boil it, take all the meat off in square bits, break the bones of the head, and boil them in some veal or beef stock. Fry some shalots in butter, and dredge in flour enough to thicken the gravy: stir this into the browning, and boil it up; skim it carefully, and then put in the head; put in also a pint of white wine, and simmer till the meat is tender. About ten minutes before you serve, put in some basil, taragan, chives, parsley, Cayenne pepper, salt, two spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, and one of soy. Squeeze a lemon into the tureen, and pour the soup upon it. Garnish with forcemeat balls and small eggs. Beef à la Royale. Bone a brisket of beef, and make holes in it. about an inch from each other. Fill one hole with 222 ART OF COOKERY. pepper, and onion. When done, skim the fat, put the meat into the dish, and pour the liquor over it. Some prefer it boiled : either way it is a handsome dish for the sideboard. Beef à la Mode. The small buttock, leg-of-mutton piece, clod, or part of a large buttock, are all proper for this pur- pose. Take either of these, with two dozen of cloves, mace in proportion, and half an ounce of allspice beaten fine: chop a large handful of parsley and all sorts of sweet herbs, very fine; cut some fat bacon as long as the beef is thick, and about a quarter of an inch square, and put it into the spice, &c., and the beef into the same. Put the beef into a pot, and cover it with water. Chop four large onions very fine, and six cloves of garlic, six bay leaves, and a handful of champignons, or fresh mushrooms ; put all into the pot, with a pint of strong beer, and half a pint of red wine ; put pepper and salt, Cayenne pepper, and a spoonful of vinegar; strew three handfuls of bread raspings, sifted fine, over all ; cover close, and stew it for six or eight hours, according to the size of the piece. Then take the beef out, put it into a deep dish, and keep it hot; strain the gravy through a sieve, and pick out the champignons, or mushrooms, skim off all the fat, put it into your pot again, and give it a boil up; season it to your liking; then put the gravy over your beef, and send it hot to table. If you prefer it cold, cut it in slices with the gravy over it, and it will be a strong jelly. Beef Collops. Cut the fillet from the under part of a rump of beef into thin slices, and fry them till three parts done; add slices of pickled ciicumbers, small mush- MADE DISHES. 223 rooms stewed, blanched oysters, and good cullis ; stew them till tender, and serve them. Portugal Beef. Take out the bone of a rump of beef, cut it across, flour it, and fry the thin part in butter; stuff the thick end with suet, boiled chesnuts, an anchovy, an onion, and pepper. Stew it in a pan of good stock, and when tender, lay the stewed part in a dish : cut the fried in two, and lay on each side of it; strain the gravy it was stewed in, put to it gherkins chopped, and boiled chesnuts; thicken with butter rolled in flour, add a spoonful of browning, boil it up, season it with salt, and pour it over the beef. Garnish with lemon. : Beef Steaks rolled. Flatten three or four beef steaks, then make a forcemeat. Beat a pound of veal in a mortar, half a pound of cold ham, the kidney fat of a loin of chopped veal, a sweetbread cut in pieces, an ounce of truffles and morels, first stewed and then cut small, some parsley, the yolks of four eggs, a nutmeg grated, thyme, lemon-peel cut fine, pepper and salt, and half a pint of cream ; mix all toge- ther, lay it on your steaks, roll them up firm, of a good size, and confine them with a small skewer; put them into a stewpan, and fry them of a nice brown ; pour off all the fat, and put in a pint of good fried gravy ; to which add one spoonful of ketchup, two of red wine, a few mushrooms, and let them stew half an hour. Take up the steaks, cut them in two, Jay the cut side uppermost, and pour the sauce over them. Garnish with lemon. To dress the Inside of a cold Sirloin of Beef. Cut out all the inside (free from fat) of the sir- loin, in pieces about two inches long; dredge it 224 ART OF COOKERY. R . with a little flour, and fry it of a light brown, drain, and toss it up in rich gravy that has been well sea- soned with pepper, salt, shalot, and an anchovy; before you send it up, add two spoonfuls of vinegar taken from pickled capers; garnish with fried oysters. Rolled Beef, to eat like Hare. Cut out the inside of a sirloin of beef, soak it in a large glass of red wine, and one of vinegar, for two days and nights ; make a good stuffing as you would for a hare, strew it over the beef, roll and bind it up tight, and roast it on a hanging spit. Baste with vinegar and red port, mixed with pounded allspice. Larding will improve both ap- pearance and flavour. Serve it up, like hare, with rich gravy in the dish, and melted butter and cur- rant jelly, in separate boats. This is an excellent substitute for lare. Mock Hare, made of Bullock's Heart. Clean and cut off the deaf ears of a large bul- lock's heart. Stuff it as you would a hare. Cover the top with paper, or a piece of caul, to keep in the stuffing. "Then roast it in an upright position ; baste it with milk, adding a small piece of butter; flour it every now and then to give it a coating; and, when done, put half a pint of red wine to the same quantity of good gravy, and some red currant jelly. Pour it hot into the dish; and serve it with red currant jelly. This not only has the taste of hare ; but is, by some persons, pre- ferred to it. Tongue and Udder forced. Parboil and blanch your tongue, stick it full of cloves, and fill the udder with a forcemeat made of MADE DISII ES. 225 veal. First wash the inside with the yolk of egg; put in the forcemeat, tie the ends close, and spit, roast, and baste with butter. When done, put good gravy into the dish, and serve with sweet sauce. Bombarded Veal. Cut out the bone of a fillet of veal, and fill up the place with a good forcemeat. Then make cuts all round the fillet, at about an inch distance from each other. Fill one with forcemeat, another with boiled spinach, a third with crumbs of bread, chopped oysters, and beef marrow, and so on. Wrap the caul close round it, and put it into a deep pot, with about a pint of water. Make a paste to lay over it. When taken out of the oven, skim off the fat, and put the gravy into a stewpan, with a spoonful of mushroom ketchup, one of le- mon-pickle, five boiled artichoke bottoms cut into quarters, two spoonfuls of browning, with half an ounce of morels and truffles. Thicken with butter rolled in flour, give it a gentle boil, put your veal into the dish, and pour your sauce over it. Fricandeau of Veal. Cut a piece of veal from the leg, beat it flat with a chopper, make a hole in the under part, put in a little light forcemeat, and sew it up; neatly lard the top part with pieces of fat bacon, blanch it up, put it into a stewpan, with a little stock, and cover it close; stew it till quite tender, and the liquor nearly reduced. "Glaze the larding, put stewed sorrel under, and serve it. Instead of only one piece of veal, three or four small pieces may be served on a dish. . Veal Olives. Cut some collops from the fillet, and hack them with the back of a knife. Spread forcemeat over 226 ART OF COOKERY. each, then roll them up, and either toast or bake them. Make a ragout of oysters and sweetbreads cut in square bits, with mushrooms and morels; lay them in the dish with rolls of veal. Put gravy into the dish, and serve hot, with forcemeat balls round. Fillet of Veal with Collops. Cut your collops from a small fillet; fill the ud- der with forcemeat: roll it round, tie it across, and roast it. Lay the collops in the dish, and the udder in the middle. Garnish with lemon and serve it. Pillow of Veal. Half roast a breast or neck of veal, cut it into chops, and season it with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Put a pound of rice to a quart of stock, some mace, and a little salt. Stew it very gently till thick; but butter the bottom of the pan you do it in. Beat up the yolks of six eggs, and stir them in. Then take a small deep dish, butter it, and lay some of the rice at the bottom. Then lay the veal in a heap, and cover it with rice. Rub it over with the yolks of eggs, and bake it an hour and a half. Then open the top, and pour in a pint of rich gravy. Send it hot to table, and garnish with a Seville orange cut in quarters. Calf's Pluck. Roast a calf's heart stuffed with suet, sweet herbs, and parsley, crumbs of bread, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little lemon-peel, all mixed together with the yolk of an egg. Boil the lights with part of the liver; when done, chop them small, and put them into a saucepan, with butter rolled in flour, some pepper and salt, and lemon-juice. Fry the MADE DISHES. 227 other part of the liver with some thin slices of bacon. Lay the mince at the bottom of the dish, the heart in the middle, and the fried liver and bacon round, with crisped parsley. Serve with plain melted butter. Love in Disguise. After well cleaning, stuff a calf's heart, cover it an inch thick with good forcemeat, then roll it in vermicelli, put it into a dish with a little water, and send it to the oven. When done, serve it with its own gravy in the dish. This forms a pretty side dish. Sweetbreads à la Daube. Put three large sweetbreads into boiling water for five minutes. Take them out, and, when cool, lard them with small pieces of bacon. Put them into a stewpan with some veal gravy, a little lemon- juice, and a spoonful of browning. Stew gently a quarter of an hour, and, just before they are ready, thicken with flour and butter. Dish them up, and pour the gravy over them. Lay round them bunches of boiled celery, or oyster patties; and garnish with barberries. Scotch, or Scorched Collops. Cut the collops off the thick part of the leg, of about the size of a crown-piece; put a piece of butter browned into your frying-pan, then lay in your collops, and fry them over a quick fire. Shake, turn, and keep them in a fine froth. When they are of a nice brown, take them out, and put them into a pot. Then put cold butter again into your pan, and fry the collops as before. When they are done, and properly brown, pour the liquor from them into a stewpan, and add to it half a pint of 228 ART OF COOKERY. gravy, half a lemon, an anchovy, half an ounce of morels, a spoonful of browning, one of ketchup, two of lemon-pickle ; season to your taste, with salt and Cayenne pepper. Thicken with butter and flour, let it boil five or six minutes, put in your collops, and shake them over the fire, but do not let them boil. When they have simmered a little, take them out and lay them in a dish. Strain your gravy, and pour it hot on them. Lay on them force-meat balls, and little slices of bacon curled round a skewer and boiled; put in a few mush- rooms, and garnish with barberries and lemon. Leg of Mutton roasted, with Oysters. Stuff a leg of mutton, that has hung two or three days, all over with oysters ; roast it, and, when done, pour good gravy into the dish. Garnish with horse-radish, If cockles are preferred, use them in the same manner. Sheep's Rumps and Kidneys. Boil six rumps in veal gravy, lard the kidneys with bacon, and set them before the fire in a Dutch oven ; when tender, rub them over with the yolk of an egg, grated nutmeg, and Cayenne pepper. Skim off the fat, and put the gravy in a stewpan, with three ounces of boiled rice, a spoonful of cream, a little ketchup, and mushroom powder; thicken with flour and butter, and give it a boil. Fry the rumps till of a light brown; and, when dished up, lay them round on the rice, that the small ends may meet in the middle, with a kidney between every rump. Garnish with barberries and red cabbage. Mutton Rumps braised. · Boil six rumps for a quarter of an hour; take them out, cut them in two, and put them into a MADE DISTI ES. 229 stewpan, with a little gravy, a gill of white wine, and onions stuck with cloves, salt and Cayenne pepper; cover them close, and stew them till tender. Take them and the onions out: thicken the gravy with butter rolled in flour; a spoonful of browning, and the juice of half a lemon; boil it till smooth, but not too thick ; put in the rumps, give them a shake or two, and dish up hot. Gar- nish with horse-radish and beet roots. For a change, the rumps may be left whole, and six kidneys larded on one side, and done the same as the rumps, but not boiled. Put the rumps in the middle of the dish, and kidneys round them, with the sauce over. Mutton Chops in Disguise. Rub your chops over with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little parsley. Roll each in white paper well buttered, and close the two ends. Boil some lard, or dripping, in a stewpan, and put the steaks into it. Fry them of a nice brown, then take them out, and thoroughly drain off the fat. Lay them in your dish. Garnish with horse-radish, and serve with a good gravy in the dish. Mutton Steaks, à la Maintenon. Half fry, then strew crumbs of bread, herbs, and seasoning, all over them ; fold them while hot in buttered papers, and finish them on a gridiron. Haricot of Mutton. Take off some of the fat of the middle or best end of the neck; cut it into thin steaks; put the fat into a frying-pan, flour, and fry them slightly of a fine light brown. Then put them into a dish while you fry carrots, turnips, and sliced onions. Lay your steaks at the bottom of a stewpan, the vegetables over them, and cover them with boiling water ; give them one boil, skim, and then set the 230 ART OF COOKERY. pan on the side of the fire to simmer gently till tender. Skim off all the fat: add pepper, salt, and a spoonful of ketchup. A Haggess. Blanch and chop the heart and lights of a calf or sheep very fine, and shred a pound of beef suet very fine. Take the crumb of a French roll soaked in cream, beaten cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, half a pint of sweet wine, a pound of raisins, stoned and chopped, and flour to make it of a proper con- sistence; a little salt, the yolks of three eggs, and some sheep chitterlings well cleaned and cut in slips. Mix all together, and put the mixture into a sheep's bag, nicely cleaned ; tie it tight, and boil it three hours. Lamb Chops, en Casserole. Cut a loin of lamb into chops; do them with yolk of egg on each side, and strew them with bread- crumbs, cloves, mace, pepper, and salt mixed : fry them of a light brown, and put them round in a dish, as close as you can; leave a hole in the middle to put your sauce in, which must con- sist of sweet herbs, and parsley shred fine, and stewed in good thick gravy. Garnish with fried parsley. Sheep's Trotters, au Gratin. First boil them in water, then put it in a stew- pan, with a glass of white wine, half a pint of com- mon stock, as much cullis, a bunch of sweet herbs, with salt, whole pepper, and mace. When the sauce is nearly reduced, take out the herbs, and serve them out upon a gratin. Lamb's Head minced.' Cut it in two, and blanch it with the liver, heart, and lights. Chop, and add to them parsley, shred MADE DISTIES. 231 lemon-peel, and some cullis : season, and stew it gently till done. Wash the head with yolk of egg, season with pepper and salt, strew over it bread-crumbs, and bake it gently till tender. When you serve, cover it with a salamander. Clean the brains with warm water, wipe them dry, dip them in the yolks of eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry them in lard. Put the mince under the head, and the fried brains round, with rashers of bacon. Quarter of Lamb forced. Cut a long slit in a large leg of lamb, and take out the meat: the front of it must not be defaced. Chop the meat small, with marrow, beef suet, oysters, a washed anchovy, an onion, sweet herbs, lemon-peel, beaten mace, and nutmeg. Beat all together in a mortar, stuff the leg in its original shape, sew it up, rub it over with the yolks of eggs, and roast it for an hour, basting it with butter. Cut the loin into steaks, season them with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, lemon-peel cut fine, and a few herbs. Fry them in fresh butter, of a fine brown, pour out the butter, put in a quarter of a pint of white wine, and add half a pint of strong gravy, a quarter of a pint of oysters, with their liquor, some mushrooms, a spoonful of their pickle, butter rolled in flour, and the yolk of an egg; stir all together till thick, then lay your leg of lamb in the dish, and the loin round it : pour the sauce over it, and garnish with lemon. Ley of Pork à la Boisson. Boil, for about ten minutes, a leg of pork that has been in salt three or four days; then take it up, skin, split, and put it to the fire. About half an hour before you take it up, shake on crumbs of bread, baste it with butter, put on more crumbs, and repeat basting and putting crumbs, till it looks x 2 MADE DISHES. 233 water, simmer it ten minutes, score the legs and rump, season them with pepper and salt, broil them of a good colour, and serve them up over your bird. Another Way. Cut the fowl as before, put to it some bechemel, thicken with a liaison of two eggs. Fowls à la Braise. Truss the fowl as for broiling, season it with beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt. Put a layer of bacon at the bottom of a deep stewpan, and one of veal, then the fowl; put in an onion, two or three cloves, stuck in sweet herbs, with a piece of carrot. Put at the top a layer of bacon, another of veal, and a third of beef; cover it close, and let it stand over the fire for two or three minutes ; then pour in a pint of common stock ; cover it close, and let it stew an hour; afterwards take up your fowl, strain the sauce, and, after you have skimmed off the fat, boil it down till it is of a glaze, then put it over the fowl. Add a ragout of sweetbreads, cocks' combs, truffles, and morels, or mushrooms, with forcemeat balls. Fowls forced. : Cut a large fowl down the back, take the skin off whole, cut the flesh from the bones, and chop it with half a pint of oysters and an ounce of beef marrow, pepper, and salt. Mix it with cream, lay the meat on the bones, draw the skin over, and sew up the back. Lay thin slices of bacon on the breast, tie them on in diamonds, and roast it an hour by a moderate fire. Pour a brown gravy sauce into the dish, take the bacon off, and lay in the fowl. Garnish with pickles, mushrooms, or oysters, and serve it hot. x 3 234 ART OF COOKERY. Chicken in Savory Jelly. Boil some calves' feet to a strong jelly; take out the feet, and skim off the fat; beat up the whites of three eggs, mix them with half a pint of vinegar, the juice of three lemons, a blade or two of mace, a few pepper-corns, and a little salt. Put these to the jelly, and when boiled a few minutes pass it through a jelly-bag till clear ; then put a little in the bottom of a bowl that will hold your chicken (which must be roasted); when they are cold, and the jelly quite set, lay them in with their breasts down, then fill up your bowl with the rest of the jelly, which you must take care to keep from setting, so that when poured into the bowl it will not break : let it stand all night, and the next day put your basin into warm water : as soon as you find it loose in the basin, lay your dish over it, and turn it out upon it. Small Birds in Savory Jelly. Take eight small birds with their heads and feet on, put a piece of butter into the belly of each, and sew up the vents. Cover them close in a jug, and set them in a kettle of boiling water till done. Drain them, make a jelly as above, and put some in a basin. When set, put in three birds with their breasts down, and cover them with jelly. When this is set, put in the other five, with their heads in the middle, and proceed as with chicken. Chicken and Tongues. Boil six chicken very white; take six hogså tongues nicely boiled and peeled, a cauliflower boiled whole in milk and water, and some spinach boiled green. Lay the cauliflower in the middle, the chicken close all round, the tongues round the chicken with the roots outward, and the spinach in small heaps between the tongues. Garnish with toasted bacon. MJDE DISNES. 235 Puffs, with Chicken. Chop the breasts of fowl, some lean ham, and half an anchovy; add a small quantity of parsley, lemon-peel, and shalots, cut very fine, with a little Cayenne, and pounded mace. Put them into a stewpan, with a spoonful of bechemel, set them over a fire for five minutes ; put them on a plate, and, when cold, roll out some puff paste thin, cut it into square pieces, put some of the mixture on them, double the paste, run a jagger iron round to make them in the form of puffs, fry them in boiling lard, and serve them up with fried parsley under. the al Curry. Cut up two rabbits, or chicken, as for a fricassée ; Try them of a light brown, and stew them in gravy. Put in a large spoonful or two of curry powder, according to the quantity of meat; add, if neces- sary, grated ginger, turmeric, and Cayenne pepper. When sufficiently stewed thicken it with butter rolled in flour, and some good cream. Add lemon juice, shalots, and garlic, and garnish with lemon. Rice, to eat with Curry. Wash and strain your rice, just cover it with boiling water, put it in a little salt, stir it well, and let it boil quick. When sufficiently swelled, drain off the water, and pour the rice on the shallow end of a sieve; set it before a fire, and let it stay till it separates and dries. Serve it without sauce of any kind. Ducks à la Mode. Cut two ducks into quarters, and fry them of a light brown. Pour off the fat, dust flour over, and put in half a pint of gravy, a quarter of a pint of red wine, an anchovy, two shalots, and a bundle of 236 ART OF COOKERY. sweet herbs ; cover and stew them a quarter of an hour. Take out the herbs, skim off the fat, and thicken with butter rolled in flour. Put the ducks on the dish, pour the sauce over, garnish with lemon or barberries, and serve them hot. Goose à la Mode. Skin and bone your goose; boil and peel a dried tongue; and also a fowl. Season it with pepper, salt, and beaten mace, and roll it round the tongue. Season the goose in the same manner, and lay the tongue and fowl on the goose, with slices of ham between them. If you roll beef marrow between the tongue and the fowl, and between the fowl and the goose, it will be a great improvement. Put it all together in a pan that will just hold it, with two quarts of beef gravy, the bones of the goose and fowl, some sweet herbs, and an onion, Cover close, and stew it an hour very slowly. Take up the goose, skim off all the fat; strain it, and put in a glass of red wine, two spoonfuls of ketchup, a veal sweetbread cut small, some truffles, mushrooms, and morels, a piece of butter rolled in flour, pepper, and salt. Stew the goose half an hour longer; then take it up, pour the ragout over, garnish with lemon, and serve it up. [The easiest manner of boning poultry is to begin at the breast, and take out the bones without break- ing the back.] Goose marinaded. Bone, and stuff your goose with a forcemeat, which must be made thus : take ten or twelve sage- leaves, two large onions, and three sharp apples ; chop them fine, and mix with them crumbs of bread, four ounces of beef marrow, one glass of red wine, half a nutmeg grated, pepper, salt, and MADE DISHES. 237 lemon-peel, shred small, and the yolks of four eggs. Stuff your goose with this, sew it up, fry it of a light brown, and put it into a deep stewpan, with two quarts of good gravy. Cover close, and let it stew two hours; then take it out, and keep it hot. Skim the fat clean off from the gravy, and put into it a spoonful of lemon pickle, one of browning, and one of red wine ; an anchovy shred fine, beaten mace, pepper, and salt. Thicken with flower and butter, dish up your goose, strain the gravy over it, and send it to table. Pigeons Compote. Truss six pigeons as you would for boiling. Grate the crumb of a penny loaf; scrape a quarter of a pound of fat bacon; chop parsley, thyme, and two shalots, or an onion, and some lemon peel; grate a little nutmeg ; season with pepper and salt, and mix them up with eggs. Put this forcemeat into the craws of the pigeons, lard the breasts, and fry them brown. Then put them into a stewpan, with some gravy; and, when stewed three quarters of an hour, thicken with a piece of butter rolled in flour. When you serve, strain your gravy over, and lay forcemeat-balls round. Jugged Pigeons. Season your pigeons, after having cleansed and dried them, with pepper and salt ; put them into a jug, with half a pound of butter upon them. Stop up the jug with a cloth, that no steam may get out; set in a kettle of boiling water, and let it boil an hour and a half. Then take out your pigeons, put the gravy that comes from them into a pan, and add to it a spoonful of wine, one of ketchup, a slice of lemon, half an anchovy chopped, and a bundle of sweet herbs. Boil, and then 238 ART OF COOKERY. thicken with a piece of butter rolled in flour; lay your pigeons in the dish, and strain your gravy over. Garnish with parsley and red cabbage. Partridges à la Braise. Truss the legs into the bodies of two brace of partridges; lard, and season with beaten mace, pepper, and salt. Lay slices of bacon in a stew- pan, then slices of beef and veal, all cut thin; a piece of carrot, an onion cut small, some sweet herbs, and some whole pepper. Put in the par- tridges with their breasts downwards, lay thin slices of beef and veal over them, and some parsley shred fine. Cover, and let them stew eight or ten minutes over a slow fire; then give your pan a shake, and pour in a pint of boiling water. Cover close, and let it stew for half an hour over a quicker fire ; then take out your birds, keep them hot, pour into the pan a pint of thin gravy, boil till reduced to half a pint, then strain and skim off the fat. In the mean time, have a veal sweetbread, cut small, truffles and morels, cocks' combs and fowls' livers, stewed half an hour in a pint of gravy, some arti- choke bottoms, and asparagus tops, blanched in warm water, and mushrooms. Then add the other gravy to this, and put in your partridges to heat. When thoroughly hot, put your partridges into the dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve hot. Pheasants à la Braise. The same as the preceding. Larks d la Francoise. Truss them with the legs across, and put a sage- leaf over the breasts. Put them on a thin skewer; and between every lark place a bit of thin bacon. Tie the skewer to a spit, and roast them before a clear brisk fire ; baste with butter, and strew over MADE DISHES. 239 crumbs of bread mixed with flour. Fry some crumbs of a fine brown in butter. Lay the larks round the dish, and the crumbs in the middle. Snipes, or Woodcocks, in Surtout. Make a forcemeat of veal, an equal quantity of beef suet, pounded in a mortar, with crumbs of bread ; add beaten mace, pepper and salt, parsley, and sweet herbs, mixed with the yolk of an egg. Lay some of this round the dish ; then put in your birds, which must be drawn and half roasted. Chop the trail, and put it all over the dish. Put some truffles, morels, mushrooms, a sweetbread, and ar- tichoke bottoms, cut small, into some good gravy; stew altogether. Beat up the yolks of two eggs in a spoonful of white wine, stir all together one way, when thick take it off, and when cold pour it into the surtout ; have the yolks of a few hard eggs put in here and there ; season with beaten mace, pepper, and salt; cover with the forcemeat; colour it with yolks of eggs, then send it to the oven. Half an hour does it. Send it hot to table. Rabbits surprised. Skewer and stuff two young rabbits, as for roast- ing. Roast, and take the meat from the bones, which must be left whole. Chop the meat fine, with shred parsley, lemon-peel, an ounce of beef marrow, a spoonful of cream, and a little salt. Beat the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, and a small piece of butter, in a mortar; mix all together, and stew it five minutes ; lay it on the rabbits where the meat is off, and put it down close and even, to make them appear whole; then, with a salamander, brown them all over. Pour a good gravy, made as thick as cream, into the dish, and stick myrtle in their mouths. Serve them up with the livers boiled and frothed. 240 ART OF COOKERY. Jugged Hare. Cut your hare into small pieces : lard them with bacon, season them with pepper and salt, and put them into an earthen jug, with mace, an onion stuck with cloves, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Cover the jug close ; set it on a pot of boiling water (three hours will do it). Then turn it into the dish, take out the onion and sweet herbs, and send it hot to table. Marinaded Soles. Boil them in salt and water ; bone, drain, and lay them on a dish with the bellies upwards. Boil, and pound some spinach; then boil four eggs hard, chop yolks and whites separate, lay green, white, and yellow, among the soles, and serve with melted butter in a tureen. Smelts, in Savoury Jelly. After a cleaning, season them with mace and salt, and lay them in a pot with butter over them. Tie down with paper, and bake then half an hour. Take them out, and, when cool, lay them separately to drain. When quite cold, lay them in a deep plate, pour cold jelly over them, and they will look like living fish. Oyster Loaves. Make a hole at the top of little round loaves, to take out the crumb. Put some oysters into a stew- pan with the liquor, and the crumbs that were taken out of the loaves, and a piece of butter ; stew them together five or six minutes, then put in a spoonful of good cream, and fill your loaves. Lay a bit of crust on the top of each, and put them in the oven to crisp. MADE DISHES. 241 Mushroom Loaves. Wash button mushrooms as for pickling. Boil them a few minutes in water, and put to them two spoonfuls of cream, butter rolled in flour, salt, and pepper. Boil these up, then fill your loaves, and do them as directed in the preceding article. Maccaroni. Boil it first in water and butter for a short time ; strain off, and put stock enough to cover it, boil until it has soaked up all the stock, then put bechemel, and grated Parmesan cheese. Dish it up, put grated Parmesan cheese over it, and put it in the oven for a few minutes; brown it with a salamander, and serve hot. Eggs a la Trip. Boil hard eight eggs, and put them in cold water. Peel, leave the yolks, and shred the whites; put chopped parsley into bechemel, and pour it over the eggs. The eggs need not be put in the stewpan, as the sauce boiling will do them suffi- ciently. Han Braised. Soak it in warm water the day before it is to be dressed. Put it on in cold water, and let it boil about twenty minutes ; take it up, take off the rind, and trim it, put it into a good brown braise, with a pint of sherry in it, set it on a slow stove, covered down close, and boil as gently as possible for four hours, more or less, according to the size of the ham; when done, take it up, trim and glaze it ; put either spinach, greens, beans, or cullis, according to the time of year. Eggs in Surtout. Boil half a pound of bacon cut into thin slices, and fry some bits of bread in butter; put a little P 242 ART OF COOKERY, cullis into a dish, garnish the rim with fried bread, break some eggs into the middle, cover them with the bacon, and do them over a slow fire. Poached Eggs. Put a little salt and vinegar into the water, which, when it boils, take from the fire, break your eggs in, and cover the stewpan : they will take three minutes. Take them out with a slice, and cut off the ragged part of the whites. Put them on toasted bread, or serve with piquant sauce. Eggs and Brocoli. Boil your brocoli till quite tender, buti save a large bunch with six or eight sprigs. Toast bread large enough for your dish. Take six eggs, beat them well, put them into a saucepan, with butter and a little salt; beat them with a spoon till thick enough, and then pour them on the toast. Set the largest bunch of brocoli in the middle, and the other little pieces round. Garnish with the same. Spinach and Eggs. When the spinach is boiled, it must be squeezed dry, chopped very fine, and put into a stewpan, with a bit of butter, a little cream, pepper, and salt; dish the spinach, and then put the eggs in to poach. Trim the ragged part of the whites, and put them on the spinach. Eggs fryed in Paste. Boil six eggs for three minutes, put them mto cold water, take off the shells, (but do not break the whites,) wrap the eggs up in the trimmings of puff paste ; brush them over with egg, and sprinkle a few bread crumbs over them ; have lard or clari- fied butter in a stewpan, sufficient for the eggs to swim when they are put in ; when the lard is hot, MADE DISHES. 243 put the eggs in, and fry them of a nice gold colour; when done, lay them on a napkin. Eggs a la Poulet. Boil eight eggs hard, put them in cold water, peel them without breaking the whites ; cut a small bit off the ends of four, that they may stand upright on the dish; split the other four through the middle, and lay them round the others; put bechemel into a stewpan, make it hot, put a little chopped parsley in it, and pour it over the eggs. An Omelette. Beat up eight eggs, season them with pepper and salt, add a shalot cut small, and some shred parsley. Put into a frying pan a quarter of a pound of but- ter; and, when it boils, throw in the eggs, and stir them over a clear fire till the omelette has become thick. When browned on the under side, double it up, put it upon a dish, and pour it over a little strong veal gravy. A sweet Omelette. Mix ten eggs with a gill of cream, a quarter of a pound of oiled butter, and a little syrup of nut- meg ; sweeten with loaf sugar, put the whole into a frying pan, as for å savory omelette, fry it in the same manner, and serve hot, with sifted sugar over it. Ramukins. Put some Parmesan cheese into a stewpan, bruise it with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a gill of water, salt, and an anchovy cut small ; boil them together, and put in as much flour as the sauce will take up; keep it over the fire till it is a thick paste, then put it into a stewpan, with Y 2 241 ART OF COOKERY. the yolks of twelve eggs, beat up the whites quite stiff, till they will bear an egg, then mix them with the rest. Drop them into square paper cases. If well made, they will be light and of a fine colour. Bubble and Squeak. Cut cold boiled beef into thin slices; squeeze, and chop some cabbage that has been dressed, put both together into a frying pan, with a little butter, pepper, and salt, if requisite. Fry them for a few minutes ; when done, raise the cabbage high in the middle of a dish, and put the slices of beef round, fat and lean alternately. Garnish with carrot. MISCELLANEOUS CULINARY PREPARATIONS. Beef Hams, to cure. Cut the leg of a fat Scotch or Welch ox like a ham, Mix an ounce of bay salt, an ounce of salt- petre, a pound of common salt, and a pound of coarse sugar. Rub it well into the meat, turn and baste it with the pickle every day for a month ; then take it out, roll it in bran or saw-dust, and hang it in wood smoke, where there is but little smoke, for another month. Hang it in a dry, but not a hot place, and keep it for use. Cut it into rashers, and broil it with poached eggs; or boil a piece to eat cold, like Dutch beef. This is for a ham of about fourteen or fifteen pounds weight. Y 3 MISCELLANEOUS PREPARATIONS. 245 Hung Beef. Put a rib of beef into a strong brine of bay salt, salt petre, and spring water, for nine days. Hang it up a chimney where wood or saw-dnst is burnt. When a little dry, wash the outside with blood two or three times, to make it look black; and when dried sufficiently, boil it for use. Another Way. Take the navel-piece, and hang it up in a cellar as long as it will keep good, and till it begins to be sappy. Then take it down, cut it in three, and wash it in sugar and water, each piece separately. Then take a pound of saltpetre, and two of bay salt dried, and pounded small. Mix with them three spoonfuls of brown sugar, and rub it well into your beef. Then strew a sufficient quantity of common salt all over, and let the beef lie close till the salt is dissolved. Turn it every other day for a fortnight, and after that hang it up in a warm place. It may hang a fortnight in the kitchen; when wanted, boil it in bay salt and pump water till tender. It will keep, when boiled, two or three months, if rubbed with a greasy cloth, or if put two or three minutes into boiling water, to take off the mouldiness. Hunting Beef. Take a buttock of beef and rub every day for a month, with the following ingredients : One pound of salt, two ounces of saltpetre, a quarter of a pound of brown sugar, one ounce of corianders, the same of cloves, half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of nutmeg, two ounces of allspice, a quarter of a pound of pepper, half an ounce of Cayenne pepper, and two ounces of ginger, ground and well mixed. When to be dressed, put plenty of fat into 246 ART OF COOKERY. a deep pan, over which put your beef, covering with fat; care must be taken that the beef does not touch the bottom of the pan. Cover the top with a thick paste of flour and water, to prevent the steam from coming out. Send it to the oven, and if moderate it will be done enough in five hours. It should not be taken out of the pan till quite cold; put plenty of fat, as there must not be any water put in. Pickled Beef, for present use. Stick a rib of beef with garlic and cloves. Sea- son it with salt, Jamaica pepper, mace, and garlic pounded; cover the meat with vinegar and Spanish thyme; turn it every day, and add more vinegar, (if required) for a fortnight; put it in a stewpan, cover it close, and let it simmer for six hours, adding vinegar and white wine. - Irish Beef. Put to twenty pounds of beef, one ounce of all- spice, a quarter of an ounce of mace, cinnamon, and nutmeg, and half an ounce each of saltpetre and pepper. Mix all together, and add as much common salt as will well rub the meat. Put it in a salting pan; rub it with more salt; every day turn it in the pickle, and rub it with the seasoning that settles. When it has remained a month in pickle, take out the bone, and boil the meat in its own liquor, with as little water as will cover it. It may be stuffed with parsley, and is to be eaten cold. Neat's Tongues. Scrape the tongues, and dry them with a cloth. Salt them with common salt, and put half an ounce of saltpetre to each tongue. Lay them in a deep pot, and turn them every day for a week or ten MISCELLANEOUS PREPARATIONS. 247 days. Add fresh salt, and let them lie a week longer. Take them out, dry them with a cloth, flour, and hang them up in a dry, but not hot place. Veal Hams. Cut a leg of veal, like a ham; mix a pint of bay salt, two ounces of saltpetre, and one pound of common salt, with an ounce of cinnamon, and ju- niper berries, and rub the ham with it. Lay it in a hollow tray, with the skin downwards, baste it every day with the pickle for a fortnight, and hang it in wood smoke for a fortnight longer. Boil, or parboil, and roast it. Mutton Ham. Well rub a hind quarter of mutton, cut like a ham, with saltpetre, coarse sugar, and common salt, mixed together. Lay it in a tray, skin downwards, and baste it every day for a fortnight : then roll it in saw-dust, hang it in wood smoke for a fortnight, then boil, and hang it in a dry place. Cut it in slices, and boil them as wanted. Bacon. Cut off the hams and head of a pig; if a large one, take out the chine, but leave in the spare-ribs, as they will keep in the gravy, and prevent the bacon from rusting. Salt it with common salt, and saltpetre, and let it lie for ten days on a table, for the brine to run from it. Salt it again ten or twelve days, turning it every day after the second salting. Then scrape, rub a little salt on, and hang it up. Scrape the white froth clean off, and rub on a little dry salt, which will keep the bacon from rusting. 248 ART OF COOKERY. Another Way. Take out the inside fat of a side of pork, lay it on a long board or dresser, that the blood may run from it. Rub both sides with salt and let it lie a day. Take a pint of bay salt, and a quarter of a pound of saltpetre beaten fine, two pounds of coarse sugar, and a quarter of a peck of common salt. Lay the pork in something that will hold the pickle, and rub it well with it. Let the skin side be downwards, and baste it every day with pickle for a fortnight. Hang it first in wood smoke, and afterwards in a dry place. Wipe off the old salt before it is put into the pickle ; do not keep it in a warm kitchen, or in the sun, as either will make both hams and bacon rusty; hang it so as to be clear of every thing, and not to touch the wall. Ham. · Take the leg of a fat hog; hang it up for a day or two; if large, rub it with a pound of bay salt, four ounces of saltpetre, a pound of the coarsest sugar, and a handful of common salt, all in fine powder. Lay the rind downwards, and cover the fleshy part with the salts. Baste it often. Keep it a month in the pickle, turning it every day. Drain, and throw bran over it; then hang it in a chimney where wood is burnt, and keep turning it for ten days. Ham, the Yorkshire way. Beat them well; mix together half a peck of salt, three ounces of saltpetre, half an ounce of salpru- nella, and five pounds of coarse salt. Rub well with this : put them into a large pan or pickling- tub, and lay what remains on the top. Let them lie three days, and then hang them up. Put as much water to it as will cover the hams, adding MISCELLANEVUS PREPARATIONS. 249 salt till it will bear an egg, then broil and strain it. The next morning put in the hams, and press them down so that they may be covered. When they have lain a fortnight, rub them well with bran, and dry them. Three middle-sized hams may be done with these ingredients, so that if you do only one, you must proportion the quantity of each article. New England Ham. Cure two hams in the following manner : Beat two ounces of salprunella fine, rub it well in, and let them lie twenty-four hours. Take half a pound of bay salt, a quarter of a pound of common salt, an ounce of saltpetre beaten fine, and half a pound of coarse sugar. Rub all these well in, and let them lie two or three days. Then take common salt, and make a strong brine, with two gallons of water, and half a pound of brown sugar. Boil it well, when cold skim it, put in the hams, and turn them every two or three days, for three weeks. Hang them up in a chimney, and smoke them well a day or two with horse litter. Afterwards let them hang for a week on the side of the kitchen chimney, and then take them down. Keep them dry, in a large box, covered with bran. They will keep good in this state for a year, though they may be used in a month. Westphalia Ham. After rubbing them with half a pound of coarse sugar, let them lie twelve hours, then rub them again with an ounce of saltpetre finely beaten, and a pound of common salt. Turn them every day for three weeks. Dry them in wood or turf smoke; when boiled, put a pint of oak saw-dust into the water. 250 - ART OF COOKERY. Pickled Pork. Bone, and then cut it into pieces. Rub them first with saltpetre, and then with two pounds of common and two of bay salt, mixed together. Put a layer of common salt at the bottom of your tub, cover each piece with common salt, and lay them one upon another as even as you can ; fill the hol- low places on the sides with salt. As the salt melts on the top strew on more, lay a coarse cloth over the vessel, a board over that, and a weight on the board. Cover close, strew on more salt, as may be occasionally necessary, and it will keep good the year round. Mock Brawn. Boil two neats' feet tender, take off the meat, and have ready the belly-piece of pork, salted with common salt and saltpetre, for a week. Boil this till almost done; take out the bones, and roll it with the feet very tight, with sheet tin. Boil it till very tender, then hang it up in the cloth till cold; after which, keep it in a sousing liquor, as is di- rected in tlie next article. Souse for Brawn, or for Pigs' Ears and Feet. Boil for half an hour a quarter of a peck o wheat-bran, a sprig of bay, and a sprig of rosemary, in two gallons of water, with four ounces of salt in it. Strain it and let it get cold, before you use it. Soused Turkey, in imitation of Sturgeon. Dress, bone, and dry a fine turkey ; tie it up as you would sturgeon, and put it into the pot, with a quart of white wine, a quart of water, a quart of vinegar, and a handful of salt, which must boil, and be well skimmed before the turkey is put in MISCELLANEOUS PREPARATIONS. 251 When done, take it out, and tie it tighter; but let the liquor boil longer. If more vinegar or salt be wanted, add them when cold, and pour it over the turkey. If kept covered from the air, in a cool dry place, it will be good for months. It is usually eaten with oil, vinegar, and sugar, for sauce. Fine Pork Sausages. Take six pounds of young pork, quite free from skin, gristle, or fat ; cut it small, and beat it fine in a mortar. Chop six pounds of beef suet very fine ; pick off the leaves of a handful of sage, and shred it fine; spread your meat on a clean dresser, and shake the sage over the meat. Shred the rind of a lemon very fine, and throw it, with sweet herbs, on the meat. Grate two nutmegs, to which put one spoonful of pepper, and a large spoonful of salt. Throw the suet over, and mix all well to- gether. Put it down close in the pot, and when you use it, roll it up with as much egg as will make it roll smooth. Common Sausages. Chop three pounds of pork, quite free from skin and gristle ; season it with two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one of beaten pepper, and some sage shred fine; mix it well together; have the guts nicely cleaned, and fill them, or put the meat down in a pot. Roll them of what size you please, and fry them. Oxford Sausages. Take one pound of young pork, fat and lean, without skin or gristle, one pound of lean veal, and one of beef suet, chopped fine together; put in half a pound of grated bread, half the peel of a lemon shred, a nutmeg grated, six sạge-leaves 252 ART OF COOKERY. chopped fine, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and two of salt, some thyme, savory, and marjoram, shred fine, Mix well together, and put it close down in a pan till you use it. Roll them out the size of common sausages, and fry them in fresh butter, of a fine brown, or broil them over a clear fire, and send them to table hot. Bologna Sausages. Chop a pound of beef suet, a pound of pork, a pound of bacon, fat and lean together, and the same quantity of beef and veal. Take some sage, pick off the leaves, and chop it fine, with a few sweet herbs. Season high with pepper and salt. Fill a large gut, well cleaned. Set on a saucepan of water, and when it boils, put the sausage in, hav- ing first pricked it, to prevent its bursting. Boil it gently for an hour, and lay it to dry on clean straw. Savaloys. Take three pounds of young pork, free from bone and skin ; salt it with one ounce of saltpetre, and a pound of common salt, for two days; chop it fine, put in three tea-spoonfuls of pepper, a dozen sage leaves chopped fine, and a pound of grated bread ; mix it well, fill the guts, and bake them half an hour in a slack oven : they are good either hot or cold. German Sausages. Take the crumb of a small loaf, a pound of suet, nalf a lamb's lights, parsley, thyme, marjoram, and onion, minced small, and season it with salt and pepper ; these must be stuffed in a sheep's gut, and fried in melted suet: they are only fit for im- mediate use. MISCELLANEOUS PREPARATIONS. 253 Hogs' Puddings with Currants. Four pounds of beef suet shred fine, three pounds of grated bread, and two pounds of currants picked and washed; cloves, mace, and cinnamon, of each a quarter of an ounce, finely beaten; salt, a pound and a half of sugar, a pint of wine, a quart of cream, a little rose-water, and twenty eggs well beaten, with half the whites. Mix all toge- ther, fill clean guts half full, boil them a little, and prick them as they boil. Take them up on clean cloths, and then lay them on a dish. Hogs' Puddings, with Almonds. Chop one pound of beef marrow, and half a pound of sweet almonds blanched; beat them fine with a little orange-flower or rose-water, half a pound of grated bread, half a pound of currants, washed and picked, a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, a quarter of an ounce each of mace, nutmeg, and cinnamon, and half a pint of wine. Mix all together with half a pint of cream, and the yolks of four eggs. Fill the guts half full, tie them up, and boil them a quarter of an hour. Black Puddings. Stir the blood with salt till cold, put a quart of it, or rather more, to a quart of old grits, and soak it one night. Mix it well together, season it with a spoonful of salt, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, mace, and nutmeg, an equal quantity of each ; dry, beat, and mix well in. Take winter savory, sweet marjoram, thyme, and pennyroyal, chopped fine; just enough to season them and to give them a flavour. The next day take the leaf of the hog and cut into dice, scrape and wash the guts, then tie one end; put in plenty of fat, fill the skins three parts full, and tie the other end; prick them 2 254 ART OF COOKERY. with a pin, and put them in a kettle of boiling water : boil them gently for an hour, then take them out, and lay them on clean straw till cold. When eaten, boil or broil them, and serve hot. Hogs' Lard. Melt it carefully in a jar, put in a kettle of boil- ing water, and run it into bladders that have been well cleaned. The smaller they are, the better the lard keeps; as, after the air reaches it, it becomes rank. Put in a sprig of rosemary when melted. As this is a very useful article for frying fish, it should be prepared with care. Mixed with butter, it makes very fine crust. Mustard, to make. Mix, by degrees, the best Durham mustard with boiling water, to a proper thickness; rub it smooth; add a little salt; keep it in a small jar closely covered, and put only as much into the glass as will be used in a day or two. Another way, for immediate use. Mix your mustard with milk instead of water ; when quite smooth, add a little raw cream. It is much softer this way, is not bitter, and will keep well. The patent mustard is preferred by some, and it is perhaps as cheap, being always ready for use. TO DRESS VEGETABLES. General Observations. Vegetables of all kinds must be well washed and picked, and then laid in cold water. When boiled, they must have plenty of water, and must 256 ART OF COOKERY. boiling. Put some salt in, and tie the asparagus in small bunches; put them in, and, when they begin to be tender, take them up. If too much boiled, they lose both colour and taste. Toast a round of a loaf about half an inch thick, dip it into the liquor the asparagus was boiled in, and lay it in your dish. Pour melted butter on the toast, then lay the asparagus round the dish, the tops inwards ; send melted butter in a boat. Do not pour it over your asparagus, as that will make them greasy to the fingers. Broccoli, to boil. Strip off the branches, till you come to the top one ; peel off all the outside skin that is on the stalks and little branches, and throw them into water. Boil according to the general directions. When the stalks are tender, it is done. Serve it the same as asparagus. Broccoli, as a Salad. Boil it like asparagus, lay it in your dish, beat up with oil, vinegar, and a little salt. Garnish with nastertium-buds. Windsor Beans, to boil. They must be boiled in salt and water; and when tender they are done. Serve with parsley and butter. Kidney Beans, to boil. String, slit them down the middle, and cut them across ; let them stand some time in salt and water, LIDSS; let them stand some time un boil them, and when tender they are done. Serve with melted butter. French Beans. First string them, then cut them in two, and again across; but if to be done nicely, cut the TO DRESS VEGETALLES, 257 beans in four, and then across, which is eight pieces. Now lay them in water and salt, and when the pan boils, put in some salt and the beans. When they are tender, they are done enough, but take care they do not lose their fine green. Lay them in a plate, and serve butter in a cup French Beans, a la Creme. Cut your beans into slips, and boil them in plenty of water with salt in it. When done, drain them. Put into a stewpan two ounces of fresh butter, the yolks of three eggs beaten up in a gill of cream, and set over a slow fire. When hot, add a spoonful of vinegar and the beans, simmer for five minutes ; stir with a wooden spoon, to prevent the mixture from burning or curdling, and serve them up as a dish. Beet-Roots. These make a very pleasant addition to winter salads. They are also extremely good boiled, and sliced with onion; or stewed with whole onions. Boil the root tender, with the skin on; slice it into a stewpan with a little stock, and a spoonful of vinegar : simmer till the gravy is tinged with the colour; then put it into a small dish, and make a round of the button onions, first boiled tender ; take off the skin just before serving, and serve quite hot. Or roast three large onions, peel off the outer skins till they look clear ; and serve the beet-root stewed, round them. If beet-root is in the least broken before dressed, it loses its colour, and looks ill. Chardoons, to fry. Cut them about six inches long, and string them; when boiled tender, take them out, have some z 3 258 ART OF COOKERY. butter melted in your stewpan, flour, fry brown, and send them in a dish, with melted butter : or, tie them in bundles, and boil them like asparagus, and serve them in the same manner : or cut them into dice, and boil them like. pease : toss them up in butter, and send them up hot. Cauliflower, to boil. Cut off the green part, divide it into four, and put it into some milk and water boiling, and skim the saucepan well. When the stalks feel tender, take them up carefully, and put them to drain. Then put a spoonful of water into a stewpan, with a little dust of flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, pepper, and salt; shake it round till the butter is melted, and the whole mixed together. Take half the cauliflower, and cut it as for pickling. Lay it into the stewpan, turn, and shake the pan round for about ten minutes. Lay the stewed in the middle, the boiled round, and pour over it the butter in which the one half was stewed. The more usual, but less delicate way of dressing cauliflowers, is as follows: Cut the stalks off, leave a little green on, and boil them a quarter of an hour. Take them out, drain, and send them whole to table, with melted butter in a sauce tureen. Cabbage, to boil. Follow the general directions; and, when tender drain on a sieve, but do not press them. Savoys and other greens mnst be boiled in the same manner. Carrots, to boil. Scrape them clean, put them into a saucepan, and, when done, rub them in a clean cloth. Slice them into a plate, and pour melted butter over them. If young, half an hour will boil them. TO DRESS VEGETABLES. 259 Cucumbers, to stew. Slice an equal quantity of cucumbers and onions, and fry them together in butter. Strain them in a sieve, and put them into a saucepan, with a gill of gravy, two spoonfuls of white wine, and a blade of mace. Stew them five or six minutes, put in a piece of butter, rolled in flour, salt, and Cayenne pepper. Shake them well together, till of a good thickness ; dish and serve them up. Celery, to fry. Cut off the heads and green tops of six or eight heads of celery; take off the outside stalks, pare the roots clean ; have ready half a pint of white wine, the yolks of three eggs beaten fine, salt and nutmeg; mix altogether with four into a batter, into which dip every head, and fry them in butter; when done, lay them in your dish, and pour melted butter over them. Celery, to ragout. Wash a bunch of celery; cut it in pieces about two inches long, put it into a stewpan with water to cover it, tie three or four blades of mace, two or three cloves, and soine whole pepper, in a muslin rag; add an onion, and some sweet herbs; cover close, and stew softly till tender; then take out the spice, onion, and herbs ; put in half an ounce of truffles and morels, two spoonfuls of ketchup, a gill of red wine, a bit of butter rolled in flour, and a French roll; season with salt to your palate; stir, cover close, and let it stew till the sauce is thick. Shake your pan often; when done, garnish with lemon, and serve hot. Endive, to ragout. Lay three heads of white endive in salt and water for three hours. Take off the green heads of 260 ART OF COOKERY. a hundred of asparagus, chop the white part, as far as is tender, small, and put it into the water. Chop small a bunch of celery ; put it into a sauce- pan with a pint of water, three or four blades of mace, and whole pepper, tied in a cloth. When tender, put in the asparagus, shake the pan, and let it simmer till the asparagus is done. Take the endive out of the water, drain, and leave one whole. Pull the others, leaf by leaf, and put them into the stewpan, with a pint of white wine. Cover close, and let it boil till the endive is nearly done. Put in butter rolled in flour, cover the pan again, and keep shaking it. When quite done, take it up, and lay the whole head in the middle; then the celery and grass round, the other part of the endive over that ; pour the liquor from the sauce- into the stewpan, stir it together, season with salt, and add a liaison of two eggs; mix this with the sauce, then pour it over your ragout, and serve hot. Mushrooms, to boil. Clean, with a knife, fresh forced mushrooms; wash and drain them; make a case with a sheet of writing paper; rub the inside with fresh butter, and fill it with mushrooms. Season with pepper and salt, put them on a baking plate over a slow fire, cover with a saucepan lid, with some fire on it, and, when the mushrooms are nearly dry, serve them up hot. Mushrooms, to stew. Wipe large button mushrooms with a wet flannel, put them in a stewpan with a little water, let them stew a quarter of an hour, then put in salt, flour, and butter, to make it as thick as cream, let it boil five minutes; and when you dish it up, add a liaison of one egg. Put sippets round the dish, but 262 ART OF COOKERY. Pease, to boil. Pease must not be done in much water. Chop scalded mint, and stir in cold butter, pepper, and salt. Green Pease, to stew. Put a quart of pease, a lettuce, and an onion sliced, butter, pepper, salt, and no more water than hangs round the lettuce from washing. Stew them two hours very gently. When to be served, beat up an egg, and stir it into them; or a bit of flour and butter. Some prefer a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar. Potatoes, to boil. Potatoes must only have water enough to keep the saucepan from burning. Put them into cold water. Keep them close covered; half boil them, then throw in some salt, and a pint of cold water, and let them boil again till nearly done. Then drain out all the water, let them remain in the saucepan to simmer for two or three minutes, with a napkin over them, to absorb the moisture ; then peel and lay them in a dish. Or, when peeled, lay them on a gridiron till of a fine brown, and then send them to table. Many persons prefer steamers for cooking potatoes. Potatoes, to escalop. Having boiled, beat them fine in a bowl, with cream, a large piece of butter, and a little salt. Put them into escalop shells, make them smooth on the top, score with a knife, and lay thin slices of butter on the tops of them. Then put them into a Dutch oven to brown before the fire. Potatoes, to roast. Half boil, take off the thin peel, and roast them till they become brown. TO DRESS VEGETABLES. 263 ece. Potatoes, to fry. Cut them in thin slices, and fry them in butter, till they are nicely brown. Lay them in a dish, and pour melted butter over them for sauce. Potatoes likewise are fried by the French in a batter, and served up with powdered sugar thrown over them. All batters should be fried in sweet oil or hogs' lard. Potatoes, to mash. Boil, peel, and break them to paste ;' to two pounds of them add a quarter of a pint of milk, a little salt, and two ounces of butter : stir well over the fire. Serve them in this manner; or place them on the dish in a form, and then brown the top with a salamander, or in escaloos. Sea Cale. Boil it very white, and serve it on a toast, like asparagus. Spinach, to boil. Great care must be taken in washing and pick- ing it. Put it into a saucepan that will just hold it, sprinkle it with salt, and cover close. The pan must be set on the fire, and well shaken. When done, beat the spinach well with a bit of butter : it must come to table pretty dry; and looks well if pressed into a tin mould, in the form of a leaf. Sorrel, to stew. Wash, and put it into a stone jar, with no more water than hangs to the leaves. Simmer it as slowly as you can; and when done, add a bit of butter, and beat it well. French Salad. Chop three anchovies, a shalot, and some parsley, 264 ART OF COOKERY. quite small : put them into a bowl with two table- spoonfuls of vinegar, one of oil, some mustard, and salt. When well mixed, add, by degrees, cold roast or boilded meat, in thin slices ; put in a few at a time, not exceeding two or three inches long. Shake them in the seasoning, and then put more; cover the bowl, and let the salad be prepared three hours before it is to be eaten. Garnish with parsley and slices of the fat. Lobster Salad. Make a salad, and put some of the red part of the lobster to it, cut. This forms a pretty contrast to the white and green of the vegetables. Do not put much oil, as shell fish take off the sharpness of vinegar. Serve in a dish. A neat dish of Vegetables. Wash a dish with the white of egg, and make four divisions in it, with fried bread. Put alter- nately in each division, the following vegetables. Stewed spinach, in one; in the next, mashed tur nips ; the next, mashed potatoes; and in the fourth, blanched onions, and sliced carrots; stew each in a little cullis, and let some of it adhere to them when put into the dish. In the fourth partition, if preferred, put pieces of cauliflower, or heads of broccoli. Turnips, to boil and mash. Turnips should be boiled with meat. Mash them with pepper, salt, and butter. VEGETABLES AND FRUIT, TO KEEP. General Observations. Vegetables, as well as dried fruits, must be kept in a dry, but not a warm, place. Dried vegetables, when boiled, must have plenty of water. 266 ART OF COOKERY. gives a strong flavour of fresh mushrooms to all made dishes. Another Way. Scrape, peel, and take out the inside of large flaps. Boil them in their own liquor, with a little salt, lay them in tins, and set them in a cool oven; and repeat this till dry. Then put them in clean jars, tie them down close, and keep them for use Carrots, Parsnips, and Beet-roots. These must be kept in layers of dry sand for winter use; and neither they nor potatoes should be cleared from the earth. Potatoes should be care- fully kept from frost. Onions. Onions should be hung up in a cold dry place. Parsley. Cut it close to the stalks; dry it in a warm room, or on tins in a very cool oven. This pre- serves its flavour and colour, and it is very useful in winter. To keep Green Peas till Christmas. Shell, and throw them into boiling water and salt, let them simmer five or six minutes, drain them, then lay a cloth four or five times double on a table, and spread them on; dry them well, and have your bottles ready; fill, and cover them with mutton suet dried; when cool, fill the necks almost to the top, cork them, tie a bladder and a lath over them, and set them in a cool dry place. Rosin it down, and keep it in a cellar, or in the earth. When you use them, boil your water, put salt, sugar, and a piece of butter: when they are boiled enough, throw them into a sieve to drain ; then put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter ; turn them into a dish, and serve hot. VEGETABLES AND FRUIT, TO KELP. 267 Cranberries, to bottle. Gather them when the weather is quite dry, and put them into bottles, with hard water, properly prepared for the purpose. Cork them up close, set them in a dry place, where neither heats nor damps can get to them, and they will keep all the follow- ing season. Green Currants, to bottle. Gather when the sun is hot upon them; then strip them from the stalks, and put them into bot- tles. Cork them close, set them in dry sand, and they will keep all the winter. Damsons, to bottle. Take your damsons, when quite sound, put them into wide-mouthed bottles, cork them down tight; put them into a moderate oven, and about three hours will do them. Be careful your oven is not too hot, or it will make your fruit fly. All kinds of fruit that are bottled, may be done in the same way, and if properly done will keep two years. When done, they must be put away, with the mouth downwards, in a cool place, to keep them from fer- menting Gooseberries, to keep. Put an ounce of roch alum, beaten fine, into a pan of boiling hard water. When you have picked your gooseberries, put a few into the bottom of a hair sieve, and hold them in the boiling water till they turn white. Take out the sieve, and spread the gooseberries between two clean cloths. Put more gooseberries in your sieve, and so on till they are done. Put the water into a glazed pot till next day; then put your gooseberries into wide-mouthed bottles, pick out all the cracked and broken ones, pour the water clear out of the pot, and fill your • 2 A 2 268 ART OF COOKERY. bottles. Cork them loosely, and let them stand a fortnight. If they rise to the corks, draw them out, and let them stand two or three days uncorked. Then cork them close, and they will keep good several months. Another Way. Pick them as large and dry as you can, and having taken care that your bottles are clean and dry, fill and cork them. Set them in water up to the neck, and let the water boil very slowly, till you find the gooseberries are coddled ; then take them out, and put in the rest of the bottles till all are done. Have ready some rosin melted in a pip- kin, and dip in the necks of the bottles, which will keep the air from getting in at the cork. Keep them in a cool dry place, and they will bake red. They will keep without scalding; but they will not bake so fine, nor will the skins be so tender. Grapes, to keep. When you cut your grapes from the vine, leave a joint of the stalk to them. Hang them up in a dry room, at a proper distance from each other, for them to hang separate ; for, unless the air passes freely between them, they will grow mouldy, and be spoiled. If well managed, they will keep good some months. Walnuts, to keep. Put a layer of sea sand at the bottom of a large jar, then a layer of walnuts, then sand, then the nuts, and so on, till the jar is full ; they must not touch each other in any of the layers. When wanted for use, lay them in warm water for an hour, shift the water as it cools, rub them dry, and they will peel well, and eat sweet. Lemons, to keep. Do these the same as the preceding. BOILED PUDDINGS. 269 Another Way. Take fruit that are quite sound and good, and run a fine packthread, about a quarter of a yard long, through the hard nib at the end of the lemon; then tie the string together, and hang it on a hook in an airy dry place ; be sure they do not touch one another, nor any thing else, but hang them as high as you can. Pears, to keep. Pears may be kept in the same manner as the above, only tying the string to the stalks. BOILED PUDDINGS. General Observations. In boiling puddings, great care must be taken that the cloth in which they are to be boiled is quite clean, and dry, till wanted for use ; then dip it into boiling water, flour it, and shake it, before you put it into the saucepan. • Bread puddings should be tied loose ; but batter pudding quite close. If boiled in a basin, butter your basin, and give it plenty of water. Turn it often, and leave it uncovered ; when done, take it up, and let it stand a few minutes in the basin to cool. Then untie it, put the cloth round it, lay your dish over, turn the pudding out; take off the basin and cloth very carefully, as light puddings are apt to break If boiled in a cloth, when done, have ready a pan of cold water, into which dip your pudding on taking it out of the pot : this will prevent its ad- hering to the cloth. 2 A 3 270 ART OF COOKERY. Very good family puddings may be made without eggs. A few spoonfuls of fresh table beer, or one of yeast, will be found a good substitute. In that case, they must have very little milk, and inust boil three or four hours. Two large spoonfuls of snow newly fallen will serve in place of one egg, and make a pudding equally good. Batter pudding should be strained through a coarse sieve, when mixed; but in every other kind, the eggs must be strained separately. Almond Pudding. Beat fine a pound of sweet and a few bitter almonds, with three spoonfuls of rose-water, and a gill of white wine. Mix in half a pound of fresh butter melted, with six yolks of eggs, and two whites, a pint of cream, a quarter of a pound of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, one spoonful of flour, and three of crumbs of bread. Mix all well together, and boil it half an hour; or it may be baked. Apple Pudding. Make a paste of flour, chopped beef suet, or marrow, salt, and water. Knead, roll it out thin, sheet a bowl or basin with it, and fill it with baking apples pared, cut in quarters, and cored; add lemon-peel, cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon, pounded fine, a small quantity of each. Lay a thin paste on the top, tie it up in a cloth, and let it boil till done. When done, cut a piece from the top, mix sugar to taste; add a bit of fresh butter, a little syrup of quinces, and serve it. Apple Dumplings. Pare and core large baking apples, fill the cavia ties with quince, marmalade, or sugar; make paste, as for an apple pudding, roll each apple in a piece of it, and boil them separately in a cloth, or brush 272 ART OF COOKERY. Bread Pudding. Pour boiling milk over grated bread, and cover it close. When soaked an hour or two, beat it fine, and mix with it two or three eggs. Put it into a basin, that will just hold it; tie a floured cloth over, and put it into boiling water. Send it up with melted butter, poured over it. Rich Bread Pudding. Pour a half a pint of hot milk on half a pint of crumbs of bread; cover up for an hour. Beat up four eggs, strain and add them to the bread, with a tea-spoonful of flour, an ounce of butter, two ounces of sugar, half a pound of currants, an ounce of almonds beaten, orange flower water, half an ounce of orange, ditto lemon, ditto citron. Butter a basin that will just hold it, flour the cloth, tie tight over, and boil one hour. Biscuit Pudding. Pour a pint of boiling milk or cream over the best Naples biscuit, and cover it close. When cold, add the yolks of four eggs, with the whites of two ; some nutmeg, a little brandy, half a spoon- ful of flour, and sugar. Boil it an hour in a china basin. Serve with melted butter, wine, and sugar. Currant Pudding. Sheet a basin with paste, as directed for apple pudding, fill the basin with currants, cover with paste, as directed for apple pudding, fill the basin with currants, cover with paste and boil it ; when done, cut a piece out of the top, mix sifted sugar with the fruit to the palate, and a small quantity of pounded cinnamon, or grated nutmeg. 274 ART OF COOKERY. Green Bean Pudding. Boil and blanch old beans, beat them in a mortar, with pepper, salt, some cream, and the yolk of an egg. A little spinach juice will give it a fine colour. Boil it in a basin that will just hold it, an hour; and pour parsley and butter over. Serve bacon to eat with it. Hard Dumpling. Make a paste of flour, water, and a little salt. Boil them an hour. They are best boiled with beef. Hasty Puddings. Boil four bay leaves in a quart of milk. Beat up the yolks of two eggs, with salt, and two or three spoonfuls of milk ; take out the bay leaves, stir up the remainder of the milk, with a wooden spoon in one hand, and flour in the other, till of a good thickness. Let it boil, and keep stirring it. Pour it into a dish, and stick butter in different parts. Herb Pudding. Steep a quart of grits in warm water, for half an hour, cut a pound of hog's lard into little bits. Take spinach, beets, parsley, and leeks, a handful of each; three onions chopped small, three sage leaves cut fine, and a little salt. Mix well, and tie it close in a cloth. Take it up while boiling, to loosen to string. Hunting Pudding. Beat up eight eggs, mix them with a pint of cream, and a pound of flour. Beat well together, and put to them a pound of beef suet finely chopped, a pound of currants, half a pound of jar raisins, stoned and chopped small, two ounces of candied ofrange, the same of citron, cut small, a quarter of BOILED PUDDINGS. 275 a pound of powdered sugar, and a nutmeg grated. Mix all together with half a gill of brandy, put it into a cloth, and boil it six hours. When done, turn it into a dish, and strew over it powdered sugar. Muffin Pudding, with dried Fruit, or Sweetmeats. Boil a few coriander seeds, a bit of lemon-peel, and sugar, in a pint and a half of milk. Strain the milk over four muffins, and when cold, mash them with a wooden spoon ; add half a gill of brandy, half a pound of any dried fruit, some grated nutmeg, two ounces of Jordan almonds, blanched and pounded fine, and six eggs well beaten. Mix well together, and boil it in a basin, or bake it in a dish, with a paste round it. It may be made plainer, and be very good, by substituting currants instead of sweetmeats. Muffins of themselves, without fruit, make a very delicate pudding. Norfolk Dumplings. Take half a pint of milk, two eggs, salt, and make them into a good thick batter with four. Drop the batter into a saucepan of boiling water, and two or three minutes will boil them : put them into a sieve to drain ; put them on a dish, and stir a lump of butter into them. Suffolk Dumplings. Prepare some dough as for bread, using milk in- stead of water, and salt. Place it an hour before the fire to rise. Twenty minutes before you serve, have ready a large stewpan of boiling water; make the dough into balls, the size of a middling apple; throw them in, and boil twenty minutes. To know when done enough, stick a clean fork into one ; if it come out clear, it is done. 276 ART OF COOKERY. The best way to eat them is, to tear them asunder with two forks, as they naturally become heavy by their own steam. Eat immediately with meat, or sugar and butter, or salt. Oatmeal Pudding. Pour a quart of boiling milk over a pint of the best oatmeal ; soak it all night ; next day beat two eggs, and mix a little salt : butter a basin that will just hold it ; cover tight with a floured cloth, and boil it an hour and a half. Eat it with cold butter and salt. When cold, slice and toast it, and eat it like oat cake, buttered. Pease Pudding. Put your pease on to boil, giving them room to swell. When nearly done, take them out, beat them up with salt and pepper, an egg, and a lump of butter. Tie them up close, and let them boil till done. The pease will be the better for soaking an hour or two before boiling. Common Plum Pudding. One pound of flour, and one of suet; half the quantity of fruit, with spice, lemon-peel, half a glass of brandy or wine, one egg, and milk enough to mix it with. This will make an excellent pud- ding if long boiled. A light Plum Pudding. Mix grated' bread, suet, and stoned raisins, a quarter of a pound each, with two eggs and a little milk and salt; to be thoroughly boiled. A spoon- ful of brandy, nutmeg, and sugar, in melted butter, to be served as sauce. Rich Plum Pudding. A pound of jar raisins stoned, a pound of cur- rants well washed and picked, a pound of beef BOILED PUDDINGS. 277 suet chopped small, two ounces of almonas blanched and pounded, mixed in a pound of sifted flour, and some grated bread. Add two ounces each of candied citron, orange, and lemon-peel, half a grated nutmeg, a blade or two of mace, a quarter of a pound of powdered loaf sugar, and a little salt. Moisten the whole with ten beaten eggs, half a pint of cream, a glass or two of white wine, and half a gill of brandy, to make it of a good consistency; it must not be thin, as the fruit would then settle at the bottom. Tie it carefully in a cloth, and boil it four hours. Serve it up with melted butter, white wine, and powdered sugar over it; or, if preferred, it may be baked. Prune Pudding. Take a few spoonfuls from a quart of milk, and beat in it six yolks of eggs and three whites, four spoonfuls of flour, a little salt, and two spoonfuls of beaten ginger. Mix in by degrees the rest of the milk, and a pound of prunes. Tie it up in a cloth, boil it an hour, and pour over it melted butter. Damsons done in the same manner are equally good. Potatoe Pudding. Boil half a pound of potatoes till soft; peel, mash and rub them through a sieve till fine and smooth. Take half a pound of fresh butter melted, half a pound of fine sugar, and beat them well together. Beat up six eggs, and stir them with a glass of brandy. Tie it up in a cloth, and half an hour will do it. Melt some butter, put into it a glass of wine sweetened with sugar, and pour it over the pudding. 2 B 278 ART OF COOKERY. Quaking Pudding. Boil a quart of cream ; and when almost cold, beat up four eggs very fine, with a spoonful and a half of flour: mix them with the cream : add sugar and nutmeg to taste. Tie it close up in a cloth well buttered ; boil it an hour, then turn it care- fully out. Pour over it melted butter, and serve it. Raspberry Dumplings. Make a puff paste, and roll it out. Spread raspberry jam, and make it into dumplings. Boil them an hour; pour melted butter into a dish, and strew grated sugar over. Rice Pudding. Tie half a pound of rice, and half a pound of raisins stoned, or currants, in a cloth, giving it room to swell. Boil it two hours, and serve with melted butter, sugar, and grated nutmeg, poured over it. Another Way. Boil a quarter of a pound of rice as above, then take it up, and stir in a quarter of a pound of but- ter; grate some nutmeg and sugar to taste. Tie it up tight, and boil it another hour. When done pour melted butter over it. Sago Pudding. Boil two ounces of sago in a pint of milk till tender. When cold, add five eggs, two Naples biscuits, a little brandy, and sugar to taste. Boil it in a basin, and serve it up with melted butter, wine, and sugar. Shelford Pudding. Mix three quarters of a pound of currants, or jar raisins, with one pound of suet, one pound of BOILED PUDDINGS. 279 flour, six eggs, a little good milk, lemon-peel, and a little salt. Boil it in a melon-shape six hours. Spinach Pudding. Pick and wash a quarter of a peck of spinach, put it into a saucepan, with a little salt, cover close, and when boiled tender, throw it into a sieve to drain. Chop it with a knife, beat up six eggs, and mix it with half a pint of cream, a stale roll grated fine, nutmeg, and a quarter of a pound of melted butter. Stir well together, put it into the saucepan in which you boiled the spinach, and stir it till it thickens. Then wet and flour the cloth, tie it up, and boil it an hour. When done, turn it into a dish, pour melted butter over, with the juice of a Seville orange ; strew on a little grated sugar, and serve it hot. Suet Pudding. Take six spoonfuls of flour, a pound of suet shred small, three eggs, a spoonful of beaten gin- ger, a spoonful of salt, and as small a portion of milk as will make it. Mix the eggs and flour with a pint of milk very thick, and with the seasoning mix in the rest of the milk, with the suet ; boil it two hours. Suet Dumplings. Take a pint of milk, four eggs, a pound of suet, salt, and nutmeg, two tea-spoonfuls of ginger, and flour to make it into a light paste. When the water boils, roll it into dumplings. Then put them into the water, and move them gently, to prevent their sticking. About half an hour will boil them. Veal Suet Pudding. Cut the crumb of a three-penny loaf into slices. Boil and pour two quarts of milk on the bread, 2 B 2 280 ART OF COOKERY. and put to it a pound of veal suet melted down. Add a pound of currants, and sugar to taste, half a nutmeg, and six eggs well mixed together. This pudding may be either boiled or baked; if the latter, be careful to well butter the inside of your dish. A Spoonful Pudding. Mix together a spoonful of flour, a spoonful of cream or milk, an egg, nutmeg, ginger, and salt. Boil it in a little wooden dish half an hour. You may add a few currants. Tansey Pudding. Blanch and pound a quarter of a pound of Jor- dan almonds ; put them into a stewpan, add a gill of the syrup of roses, the crumb of a French roll, some grated nutmeg, half a glass of brandy, two table-spoonfuls of tansey juice, three ounces of fresh butter, and some slices of citron. Pour over it a pint and a half of boiling cream or milk, sweeten, and when cold mix it ; add the juice of a lemon, and eight eggs beaten. It may be either boiled or baked. White Pudding in Skins. After washing half a pound of rice in warm water, boil it in milk till tender. Put it into a sieve to drain, and beat half a pound of Jordan almonds very fine, with rose-water. Wash and dry a pound of currants, cut a pound of hog's lard small, beat up six eggs, half a pound of sugar, a nutmeg grated, a stick of cinnamon, some mace, and a little salt. Mix them well together, fill the skins, and boil them. Yeast Dumplings. Take yeast as for bread, but with milk instead of water, and salt. Let it rise before the fire. BOILED PUDDINGS. 281 Have ready a stewpan of boiling water ; make the dough into balls, the size of a middling apple ; throw them in, and boil them twenty minutes. If you doubt when done enough, stick a fork into one; if it comes out clear, it is done. The way to eat them is to tear them apart on the top with two forks; they become heavy by their own steam. Eat immediately with meat, sugar and butter, or salt. Beef or Mutton Steak Pudding. Procure some fine steaks from a rump that has hung a few days; roll them with fat or suet be- tween; and you may add a little onion. Lay a stiff paste in a basin, and put in the rolls of steaks; cover the basin with a paste, and pinch the edges to keep the gravy in. Cover with a cloth tied close ; and let the pudding boil slowly three, four, or five hours, according to the size. Cabbage Pudding. Bruise a pound of beef suet, a pound of lean veal, and a small scalded cabbage. Season with mace, nutmeg, ginger, a little pepper and salt, and put in some green gooseberries, grapes, or barber- ries. Mix all well with the yolks of four or five eggs well beaten up. Wrap all up in a green cabbage leaf, tie it in a cloth, and boil it an hour. Calf's Feet Pudding. . After taking out the fat and brown of a calf's foot, mince a pound of it very small. Take a pound and a half of suet, pick off all the skin, and shred it small. Take the yolks of six eggs, and half the whites, and beat them well. Then the crumb of a roll grated, a pound of currants picked, washed, and rubbed in a cloth, as much milk as 2 B 3 BAKED PUDDINGS. 283 pound of Naples biscuit, and a spoonful of orange- flower water. Apple Pudding. Pare twelve large apples, and take out the cores. Put them into a saucepan, with four or five spoon- fuls of water ; boil them till soft and thick, beat them well, stir in a pound of loaf sugar, the juice of three lemons, with the peels of two cut thin and beaten fine in a mortar, and the yolks of eight eggs. Mix all together, and bake it in a slack oven. When done, strew a little sugar over it. Apricot Pudding. Cut a dozen large apricots in half, scald them till they are soft ; in the meantime pour on the grated crumbs of a penny loaf, a pint of boiling cream; and when half cold, four ounces of sugar, the yolks of four eggs, and a glass of white wine. Pound the apricots in a mortar, with the kernels; then mix the fruit and other ingredients together : put a paste round the dish ; bake the pudding half an hour. Barley Pudding. Beat up the yolks of six eggs, and the whites of three, and put them into a quart of cream. Sweeten, and put a little orange-flower or rose water in, with a pound of melted butter. Put in six handfuls of French barley, having first boiled it tender in milk. Then butter a dish, pour it in, and send it to the oven. Beef Steak Pudding. Prepare a batter of milk, two eggs, and potatoes boiled and mashed through a cullender; lay a little of it at the bottom of the dish; then put in the steaks prepared as described for a boiled beef-steak BAKED PUDDINGS. 285 mortar, with a little orange-flower or rose water, and white wine, till of a fine thin paste. Beat up twelve eggs with the whites. Grate half a nutmeg into three pints of cream, a little salt, and half a pound of melted butter. Sweeten it, and mix all together. Put it over the fire, and stir it till thick. Lay a puff paste over the dish, pour the mixture, and send it to the oven. When cream cannot be got, take three pints of milk, beat up the yolks of four eggs, and stir them into the milk. Set it over the fire, stir all the time till scalding hot, and use this instead of cream. Cheese Curd Pudding. Turn a gallon of milk with rennet, and drain off the whey. Put the curd into a mortar, and beat it with half a pound of fresh butter, till well mixed. Beat the yolks of six eggs and the whites of three, and strain them to the curd. Grate two Naples biscuits, or half a penny roll. Mix all together, and sweeten to taste. Butter patty-pans, and fill them. Bake in a moderate oven; and, when done, turn them into a dish. Cut candied citron and orange-peel narrow, about an inch long, and blanched almonds, into long slips. Stick them on the top of the puddings. Pour melted butter, wine, and sugar all over. Citron Pudding. Take a spoonful of flour, two ounces of sugar, nutmeg, and half a pint of cream. Mix them to- gether, with the yolks of three eggs. Put it into tea- cups, and add to them two ounces of citron cut very thin. Bake them in a quick oven, and turn them out upon a china dish. Cowslip Pudding. Cut and pound the flowers of a peck of cowslips, 286 ART OF COOKERY. half a pound of Naples biscuit grated, and three pints of cream. Boil them a little, then beat up sixteen eggs, with a little rose water sweetened. Mix all together, butter a dish, and pour it in. Bake it; and, when done, sift fine sugar over, and serve it up hot Custard Pudding. Boil a pint of milk, and a pint of cream, with cinnamon, lemon-peel, and nutmeg, for half an hour; strain, and put it to cool ; break eight eggs, leave out half the whites ; add about a table-spoon- ful of flour; beat them well; then put the milk and cream that have been boiled, and a glass of brandy. Butter your dish, put thin puff paste at the bottom, and round the rim; strain the custard into it; it will take about twenty minutes. It is excellent boiled in a mould, with melted butter, wine, and sugar, poured over it. Gooseberry Pudding. Stew gooseberries till they will pulp. Take a pint of the juice pressed through a sieve, and beat it with three eggs beaten and strained, and an ounce and a half of butter; sweeten, and put a crust round the dish. A few crumbs of roll should be mixed with the above, or four ounces of Naples biscuit. A George Pudding. Boil a handful of whole rice, in a little milk, till tender, with a piece of lemon-peel. Drain; then mix with it a dozen of good-sized apples, boiled to pulp as dry as possible; and a glass of white wine, the yolks of five eggs, two ounces of orange and citron cut thin, and sugar. Line a mould or basin with a paste ; beat the whites of eggs to a very strong froth, and mix with the other ingredients ; BAKED PUDDINGS, 287 fill the mould, and bake it brown. Serve it bottom upwards, with the following sauce; two glasses of wine, a spoonful of sugar, the yolks of two eggs, and a bit of butter. Simmer without boiling ; pour it to and from the saucepan, till of a proper thick- ness, and put it on the pudding. A Grateful Pudding. To one pound of flour, put a pound of grated bread. Take eight eggs, with half the whites ; beat them up, and mix with them a pint of new milk. Stir in the bread and flour, a pound of raisins stoned, a pound of currants, half a pound of sugar, and a little beaten ginger. Mix all well together, pour it into your dish, and send it to the oven. Cream, instead of milk, will be a great im- provement. Lady Sunderland's Pudding. Beat up the yolks of eight eggs with the whites of three, add five spoonfuls of flour, and a nutmeg, and put them into a pint of cream. Butter the in- sides of small basins, fill them half full, and bake them an hour. When done, turn them out of the basin, and pour over melted butter, wine, and sugar. Italian Pudding. Lay puff paste at the bottom and round the edge of a dish ; over which pour a pint of cream, French rolls enough to thicken in, ten eggs beaten fine, a nutmeg grated, twelve pippins sliced, some orange-peel and sugar, and half a pint of red wine. Half an hour will bake it. Lemon Peel. Cut off the rind of three lemons, and boil them tender. Pound them in a mortar, and have ready 288 ART OF COOKERY. a quarter of a pound of Naples biscuits boiled up in a quart of milk or cream. Mix them and the lemon peel rind with it, and beat up twelve yolks and six whites of eggs. Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and put in half a pound of sugar, and a little orange-flower water. Mix all well together, put it over the fire, stir till thick, and then squeeze in the juice of half a lemon. Put puff paste round your dish, then pour in your pudding, cut candied sweetmeats and strew over, and bake it three quarters of an hour. Or make it thus : Blanch and beat eight ounces of Jordan almonds, with orange-flower water ; add to them half a pound of cold butter, the yolks of eight or ten eggs, the juice of a large lemon, and half the rind grated. Work them in a marble mortar till they look white, then put puff paste on your dish, pour in your pudding, and bake half an an hour. Marrow Pudding. Boil cinnamon and lemon-peel for an hour in a pint of milk. Strain it into a basin and put it to cool, beat up the yolks of six eggs with half the whites, then add the milk that you strained, a little brandy and nutmeg, put puff paste round the rim of the dish you intend to bake it in, butter the bottom ; cut the crumb of three French rolls in slices ; lay them at the bottom of the dish ; then cut marrow in thin slices, and lay it on the roll: sprinkle a few currants over the marrow; then lay another layer of bread, marrow, and currants, and repeat it till the dish is full ; about a quarter of an hour before you put it into the oven, pour some of the custard over it, and the remainder as you put it in ; it will take about half an hour. Millet Pudding. Wash and pick half a pound of millet seed; -- - - - i BAKED PUDDINGS. 289 then take half a pound of sugar, a nutmeg grated, and three quarts of milk ; and break in half a pound of fresh butter. Butter your dish, pour it in, and send it to the oven. Orange Pudding. Make this as lemon pudding. Potatoe Pudding. Boil two pounds of potatoes till soft, beat them in a mortar, and rub them through a sieve till quite fine. Mix in half a pound of fresh butter melted, beat up the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of three, Add half a pound of white sugar pounded, half a pint of white wine, and stir them well to- gether. Grate in half a nutmeg, and stir in half a pint of cream. Lay a good puff paste at the bottom and round the edges of your dish, pour in your mixture, and bake it of a nice brown. Baked Meat Potatoe Pudding. Boil a sufficient quantity of pared mealy potatoes till they are ready to crumble in pieces : drain, pick out every speck or lump, and mash them as smooth as possible. Make them into a thickish batter, with an egg or two, and milk; placing a layer of steaks or chops, well seasoned with salt and pepper, at the bottom of a baking dish, cover with a layer of batter, and so alternately till the dish is full, taking care to have batter at the top. Butter the dish, to prevent sticking or burning. This pudding, when properly baked, will be of a fine brown colour. Quince Pudding Scald your quinces tender, pare them thin, scrape off the pulp, mix with sugar very sweet, and add a little ginger and cinnamon. To a pint 2c 290 ART OF COOKERY. of cream you must put three or four yolks of eggs, and stir it into your quinces till they are of a good thickness. Butter your dish, pour it in, and bake it. White pears, plums, apricots, or other fruit, may be done in the same way. Rice Pudding. Wash a quarter of a pound of rice in several waters; then put it on to boil in a pint of milk ; put about half a pint of milk in another stewpan with cinnamon, and the peel of a lemon ; let it boil for a quarter of an hour, then strain it off, put it to the rice, and let it boil till nearly dry; take it off the fire, and put it into a basin with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, stir till the butter is melted; break eight eggs into another basin (leave out two whites); beat them up well, put sugar, a little nutmeg, and a small glass of brandy; mix with the rice, and put it into the dish, which should be buttered : put puff paste round the rim : it will bake in about half an hour. A litle saffron boiled with the cinnamon will give it a very nice colour ; there may be a few currants added. Family Rice Pudding. Put half a pound of rice, picked and washed, in a deep pan; two ounces of butter, four of sugar, a little allspice pounded, and two quarts of milk. Less butter, or suet in its place, will serve. Bake in a slow oven. Ground Rice Pudding. Make this the same way as the above, excepting that, when you put the rice and milk on the fire, stir with a spoon all the time, to keep it from stick- ing to the bottom of the stewpan. This is good either boiled or baked. BAKED PUDDINGS. 291 Sago Pudding. Boil four ounces of sago in water a few minutes, strain it off, put to it about a quart of milk, and boil it until tender; boil lemon-peel and cinnamon in a little milk, strain it to the sago, put the whole into a basin, break eight eggs, mix it well together, and sweeten with moist sugar; add a glass of brandy and nutmeg; put puff paste round the rim of the dish, and butter the bottom; three quarters of an hour will bake it. Savoy Pudding. Pare the outside of a Savoy cake, cut it into slices, put it in a basin, pour boiling milk over it, and cover it up close to steam it; when cold, put six eggs to it, (leaving out two whites), beat it up, and add a glass of brandy : put puff paste round the dish, and butter the bottom ; about twenty minutes will bake it. It is equally good boiled, with melted butter and wine, but without sugar. Sweetmeat Pudding. Cover the dish with a plain puff paste. Then take candied orange or lemon peel, and citron, of each an ounce. Slice them thin, and lay them all over the bottom of the dish. Beat up eight yolks of eggs, and two whites, and put to them half a pound of sugar, and half a pound of melted butter. Mix the whole well together, put it on the sweetmeats, and send it to a moderately heated oven. It will take an hour, Tapioca Pudding. Put a quarter of a pound of tapioca in a sauce- pan of cold of water; when it comes to a boil, strain it into a pint of new milk. Boil it gently 2 c 2 292 ART OF COOKERY. till it has soaked up all the milk, and put it out to cool. Beat up the yolks of four eggs, and the whites of two, a table-spoonful of brandy, sugar, nutmeg, and two ounces of clarified butter. Mix the whole together, put a puff paste round the dish, and send it to the oven. It is very good boiled, with melted butter, wine, and sugar. Transparent Pudding Beat up eight eggs, put to them half a pound of butter, the same quantity of loaf sugar, beaten fine, with grated nutmeg, stirring it on the fire till the thickness of buttered eggs. Put it to cool, roll a rich puff paste very thin, lay it round the edge of the dish, and pour in the ingredients. Bake it in a moderate oven half an hour. Vermicelli Pudding. Boil four ounces of vermicelli in a pint of new milk till soft, with a stick or two of cinnamon. Then put in half a pint of thick cream, a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of sugar, and the yolks of four eggs beaten fine. Bake it without paste, in an earthen dish. Yorkshire Pudding. Mix five spoonfuls of flour with a quart of milk, and three eggs well beaten. Butter a drip- ping-pan, and set it under beef, mutton, or loin of veal. When browned on one side, turn the other side upwards, and brown that. It should be made in a square pan, and cut into pieces to come to table. Set it over a chafing dish at first, and stir it some minute: PIES, TARTS, AND PUFFS. 293 PIES, TARTS, AND PUFFS. General Observations. One very material thing to be attended to in all sorts of pastry is the heat of the oven. Light paste should be put into a moderately heated oven. If too hot, the crust cannot rise, and it will burn; and if, on the contrary, it is too slack, the paste will be soddened, and not of a good colour. Raised paste should have a quick oven, and be well closed, otherwise the sides will sink in, and spoil its ap- pearance. Iced tarts should be done in a slack oven; or, before the tarts are sufficiently baked, the iceing will become brown. Puff Paste. Wet a pound of flour with an egg and a little water, mix it up rather stiff, then work it well with the hand till it becomes pliable, so that it will draw in strings : then put a pound of butter, and work it together till it is tough; roll the paste out rather thick, put all the butter in at once, and fold the paste up quite even ; roll it out again, and fold it in regular folds three times, then roll it out for use; let it all be of a thickness, otherwise it will not bake upright, but fall aside in the oven ; if för patés, it should be nearly a quarter of an inch thick, or cut out with cutters according to fancy; put them on a baking sheet, brush them over with a paste brush dipped in yolk of egg, and a little water ; but do not let the egg touch the sides ; when done, take off the tops, scoop out the soft paste from the inside, and put them on white kitchen paper, to soak the butter from them; they should not be filled many minutes before wanted, as preserved fruit requires no baking: this kind of 2 c3 294 ART OF COOKERY. paste is used for all kinds of tartlets, and what is called small pastry, meat pies made in dishes, vole- ments, patés, goodveaux, &c. Meat pies should be egged. Another Way, particularly for hot Weather. Cut the butter in three equal pieces, have flour of equal weight, roll the butter in, and make as much stick to it as you can; wet the remainder with water and an egg, the same as before ; when well worked, roll the paste out four times, each time dusting with flour, and put a proper pro- portion of butter. Put it between two dishes, and leave it for half an hour, then roll it out for use. Dust the pasteboard with flour before you roll it out. Short Paste for Tarts. Rub in a quarter of a pound of butter to a pound of flour, wet it with water and two eggs, work it up to a good stiffness, and roll it out for use, When for sweet tarts, there should be two table- spoonfuls of sugar added to it, Common Paste for Family Pies. To one pound and a half of flour, break in half a pound of butter, wet with water, work it up, and roll it up twice, the second time for use. The flour for this paste need not be weighed. Young beginners had better weigh the flour and butter for the puff and tart paste. A good Paste for large Pies. Put three eggs to a peck of flour, half a pound of suet, and a pound and a half of butter, and as much liquid as will make it a good light crust; work it well, and roll it out. PIES, TARTS, AND PUFFS. 295 A standing Crust for large Pies. Boil six pounds of butter in a gallon of water ; skim it off into a peck of flour, with as little of the liquor as you can, work it up well into a paste, pull it into pieces till cold, and then make it up into what form you please. Short Crusts. Take a pound of fine flour dried, and mix it with an ounce of sugar pounded and sifted ; crumble three ounces of butter in it, till it looks like flour, and, with a little boiling cream, work it up to a fine paste. Another, somewhat richer. Mix six ounces of butter with eight ounces of fine flour; make it into a stiffish paste, with as little water as possible ; beat it well, and roll it thin. Both these are proper for tarts of fresh or preserved fruits. Bake in a moderate oven. Paste for Custards. Put six ounces of butter to half a pound of flour, the yolks of two eggs, and three spoonfuls of cream. Mix them together, and let them stand a quarter of an hour; then work it up and down, and roll it out very thin. Hot Paste for raised Pies, or Fowls. To one quart of water put two ounces of butter., set it on the fire to boil, take what four is requisite, break two eggs into it, and stir the butter and water in with a spoon, so as to mix the egg with the liquid; work it up well, at least a quarter of an hour, and make it quite stiff ; then put it in a stewpan before the fire, to sweat for about half an hour; raise it to any shape you please ; the better 296 ART OF COOKERY. way is to raise your pie, and finish it for baking, the day before you want it; it will stand the oven the better, particularly if a large one; but small ones, or cases, may be made and baked directly. Another way, suited to Pies, Fowls, &c. A simpler method is to boil some water in an equal quantity of fine lard and fresh dripping, or butter, but not much of either. While hot, mix this with as much flour as you will want, keeping the paste as stiff as you can to be sinooth, which is to be done by good kneading and beating it with the rolling-pin. When quite smooth, put a lump into a cloth, or under a pan, to soak till near cold. Crust for a Venison Pasty. To a quarter of a peck of fine flour use two pounds and a half of butter, and four eggs; mix it into a paste with warm water; work it smooth and to a good consistency. Put a paste round the in- side, but not to the bottom, of the dish; let the cover be pretty thick, to bear the long continuance in the oven. Rice Paste, for Tarts, 8c. Boil a quarter of a pound of ground rice in a small - quantity of water ; strain from it all the moisture you can ; beat it in a mortar with half an ounce of butter, and one egg well beaten ; it will make an excellent paste. Iceing for Tarts. Beat and sift a quarter of a pound of fine loaf sugar. Put it into a mortar with the white of an egg that has been well beaten up. Add to these two spoonfuls of rose water, and beat all together till it is so thick as just to run ; stir one way. Lay PIES, TARTS, AND PUFFS. 297 it on the tart with a brush, or small bunch of feathers, dipped in the iceing. Set the tarts, when done, into a gentle oven to harden. But take care not to let them stand too long, as that will dis- colour them. Almond Puffs. Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, and beat them fine with orange-flower water, whisk the whites of three eggs to a froth, strew in sifted sugar, mix the almonds with the sugar and eggs, and add sugar till as thick as paste. Lay it in cakes, and bake it on paper in a cool oven. Beef-Steak Pie. Beat some rump steaks with a rolling-pin; then season them with pepper and salt. Make a good crust, lay in your steaks, and pour in as much water as will half fill the dish. Put on the crust, send it to the oven, and let it be well baked. · Raised Beef-Steak Pie. Cut the skin from the fat of some rump steaks, beat them, pass them over the fire with a bit of butter, pepper, salt, lemon-juice, and shalots chopped ; when half done, put them into a dish till" cold. Blanch and strain oysters, and preserve the liquor, raise a crust as described above, put a layer of steaks at the bottom, some oysters upon it; and so alternately ; cover, ornament, and bake your pie. When done, put into it a good cullis, with the oyster liquor, and some ketchup mixed with it, and serve it. Steaks with oysters may be done in the same way, put into a deep dish, and covered with puff paste. PIES, TARTS, AND PUFFS. 299 sugar, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Raise the lid of your pie, put this hot into it, close it up again, and send it to table. Olive Pie. Cut thin slices of a fillet of veal, rub them over with yolks of eggs, and strew on crumbs of bread ; shred lemon-peel very fine, and put it on them, with a little grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt; roll them up tight, and lay them in a pewter dish; pour on half a pint of gravy, put half a pound of butter over ; make a light paste, and lay it round the dish. Roll the lid half an inch thick, and lay over. Calf's Head Pie. Parboil half a calf's head, cut it into slices, sea- son with pepper and salt, lay it in a crust, with some good gravy, forcemeat balls, and yolks of eggs boiled hard. Cover, bake it about an hour and a half, and then cut off the lid. In the mean time, prepare some good gravy, thickened with flour, and add a few oysters ; put the whole into the pie, and send it to table, either with the lid re- placed or without it. Calf's Feet Pie. Boil the feet in three quarts of water, with three or four blades of mace, till reduced to a pint and a half. Take out the feet, strain the liquor, and make a good crust. Cover your dish, take the flesh from the bones, and put half into it. Strew over it half a pound of currants, washed and picked, and half a pound of raisins stoned. Then lay on the rest of your meat, skim the liquor it was boiled in, sweeten it to your taste, and put in half a pint of white wine. Pour all into the dish, put on your lid, and bake it an hour and a half. 300 ART OF COOKERY. Sweetbrcad Pie. Lay puff paste half an inch thick at the bottom of a deep dish, and put a forcemeat round the sides. Cut three or four sweetbreads, according to the size of the pie ; lay them in first, then artichoke- bottoms, cut into four pieces each, then cocks' combs, truffles, and morels, some asparagus-tops, and fresh mushrooms, yolks of eggs boiled hard, and forcemeat balls ; season with pepper and salt. Almost fill the pie with water, cover, and bake it two hours. When it comes from the oven, pour in some rich veal gravy, thickened with a little cream and flour. Venison Pasty. Bone, and well season with pepper and salt, a neck and breast of venison ; put them into a pan, with the best part of a neck of mutton sliced and laid on them ; pour in a glass of red wine, put a coarse paste over, bake it two hours, lay the venison in a dish, pour the gravy over, and put one pound of butter over it; lay a good puff paste round the edge of the dish; roll out the lid, which must be a little thicker than that on the edge, and lay it on; then roll out another lid pretty thin, and cut it into whatever form you please, and lay it on the other. It will keep, in the pot it was baked in, eight or ten days ; but the crust must be kept on, that the air may not get to it. Mutton Pie. Take off the outside fat of a loin of mutton, cut it into steaks, and season them with pepper and salt; put them into the dish, with as much water as will cover them. Then put on your crust, and let it be well baked. PIES, TARTS, AND PUFFS. 301 Pork Pie. Cut a piece of loin of pork, with the rind and part of the under bone cut off. Season with pep- per, salt, and nutmeg, and make a good crust. Put a layer of pork, then a layer of pippins, pared and cored, and sugar sufficient to sweeten it ; then place another layer, of pork, and add half a pint of white wine. Lay butter on the top, close your pie, and send it to the oven. If a large pie, put in a pint of white wine. Raised Pork Pie, to eat cold. Raise a common boiled crust in the form of a small hat crown, have ready thè trimmings and small bits of pork cut off when a hog is killed. Beat it well with a rolling-pin; season with pepper and salt, and keep the fat and lean separate. Put it in layers, quite close up to the top; lay on the lid ; cut the edge smooth round, and pinch it; bake in a slow oven, as the meat is very solid Devonshire Squab Pie. Cover the dish with a crust, and put at the bot- tom a layer of sliced pippins, then a layer of mut- ton steaks, cut from the loin, and seasoned with pepper and salt. Put another layer of pippins ; peel some onions, slice them thin, and put a layer of them over the pippins; then one of mutton, and then pippins and onions. Pour in a pint of water, close up the pie, and bake it. Puff paste looks best for meat pies, but the fol- lowing, in some cases, is preferred :—mix together half a pound of sifted flour, six ounces of fresh but- ter, two eggs well beaten, some milk and salt ; knead and roll it out. 2D 302 ART OF COOKERY. A Plain Goose Pie. Quarter and season a goose, lay it in a raised crust, cut half a pound of butter in small pieces, and strew it on the top. Put on the lid, and bake it in a moderate oven. Another Way. Bone a goose and a fowl, well season them, put forcemeat into the fowl, and put the fowl into the goose. Lay them in a raised crust, and fill the corners with forcemeat. Put half a pound of but- ter on the top, cut it into pieces ; cover, send it to the oven, and let it be well baked. It may be eaten either hot or cold. Giblet Pie. Put two pair of giblets, excepting the livers, that have been well cleaned, into a saucepan, with two quarts of water, twenty corns of whole pepper, three blades of mace, a bundle of sweet herbs, and an onion. Stew them gently till tender. Cover a dish with a good crust, lay at the bottom a rump steak seasoned with pepper and salt, put in the giblets, with the livers; strain the liquor they were boiled in, season, and pour it into the pie. Put on the lid, and bake it an hour and a half. Duck Pie. Scald and clean two ducks; cut off the feet, pinions, necks, and heads; take out the gizzards, livers, and hearts, pick all clean, and scald them; take out the inside fat, lay a good puff paste all over the dish, season the ducks inside and out with pepper and salt, and lay them in the dish, with the giblets at each end, properly seasoned. Put in as much water as will nearly fill the pie, and lay on the crust, and bake it well. PIES, TARTS, AND PUFFS. 303 Chicken or Rabbit Pie. Cover the bottom of the dish with a puff paste, and upon that, round the sides, lay a thin layer of forcemeat. Cut two small chickens in pieces, sea- son them high with pepper and salt; put some of the pieces into the dish, then a sweetbread or two cut into pieces, and well seasoned, truffles and morels, artichoke-bottoms, each cut into four pieces, yolks of eggs boiled hard, chopped a little and strewed over the top: put in water, and cover the pie. When it comes from the oven, pour in a rich gravy thickened with flour and butter. You may add fresh mushrooms, asparagus-tops, and cocks' combs. Raised Rabbit, Chicken, or Veal Pie. Cut them into pieces, and put them into a stew- pan, with a bit of fresh butter, lemon-juice, pepper, salt, parsley, thyme, shalots chopped fine, and a little pounded mace. When half done, put it on a dish, and, when cold, raise the crust; put light forcemeat at the bottom, the meat over, and more forcemeat round the top. Cover, bake gently, and when done, cut off the lid, add a ragout of sweet- breads, cocks' combs, &c., and serve it. Pigeon pies may be made in the same way, but they must be put whole into the crust. Hare Pie. Cut a hare into pieces, season it with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and mace; put it into a jug, with half a pound of butter; close it up, set it in a cop- per of boiling water, and make a forcemeat with a quarter of a pound of scraped bacon, two onions, a glass of red wine, crumbs of bread, winter savory, the liver cut small, and nutmeg. Season high with pepper and salt; mix it well up with the yolks 2 D 2 30-4 ART OF COOKERY. of three eggs, raise the pie, and lay the forcemeat in the bottom of the dish. Then put in the hare, with the gravy that came out of it; lay on the lid, and send it to the oven. An hour and a half will bake it. Partridge Pie. Truss two pair of partridges as you would fowls for boiling. Put the livers, with twice the quantity of bacon, parsley cut small, and shalots, into a marble mortar ; beat them well together, with pep- per, salt, and maće. When pounded to a paste, add some fresh mushrooms. Raise a crust, and cover the bottom with the seasoning; then lay in the partridges without stuffing; put the remainder of the seasoning about the sides, and between the partridges. Mix pepper and salt, a little mace, some shalots shred fine, fresh mushrooms, and a little bacon, beaten fine in a mortar. Strew this over the partridges, and lay on thin slices of bacon. Then put on the lid, and send it to the oven; two hours will bake it. When done, remove the lid, take out the bacon, and skim off the fat. Put in a pint of rich veal gravy, squeeze in the juice of an orange, and send it hot to table. Pigeon Pie. Wash the pigeons in cold water with pepper and salt, inside and out; in the latter put a bit of but- ter. Lay a beef-steak at the bottom of the dish, and the birds on it, with a hard egg between. Put a cup of water in the dish. Fine Pátés. Slice any quantity of either turkey, house lamb, or chicken, with an equal quantity of the fat of lamb, loin of veal, or the inside of a sirloin of PIES, TARTS, AND PUFFS. 305 beef, parsley, thyme, and lemon-peel, shred. Pound all fine in a marble mortar, and season with salt and white pepper. Make a fine puff paste, roll it out into a thin square sheet, and put the meat in the middle. Cover the pâtés, close them, cut the paste even, wash them over with the yolk of egg, and bake them twenty minutes in a quick oven. Have ready a little white gravy, seasoned with pepper, salt, and a shalot, thickened with cream or butter. When done, cut a hole in the top, and pour in some gravy. Raised French Pie. Raise a crust, about three inches high; lay in slices of veal, then a few mushrooms, then a few slices of ham, a chicken cut up, more mushrooms, and a sweetbread cut in slices ; season with pep- per, salt, and sweet herbs ; cover it in, and put it in the oven; it will take about two hours in a slack oven ; when done, pour off the fat, and put six yolks of eggs boiled hard. Raised Macaroon Pie. Raise, ornament, and bake a crust; have ready some hot macaroons, stewed, and a white fricassee of chicken, in separate stewpans, and put them al- ternately into the pie; strew grated Parmesan cheese over it, put a slip of paper round the edge of the pie, to prevent its burning. Colour the cheese with a salamander, and serve it. Vegetable Pie Scald and blanch broad beans; cut young car- rots, turnips, artichoke-bottoms, mushrooms, peas, onions, lettuce, parsley, celery, or any of them you have; make the whole into a nice stew, with some good veal gravy; and season with pepper and salt. 2 3 306 ART OF COOKERY. Bake a crust over a dish, a little lining round the edge, with a cup turned up to keep it from sinking. When baked, open the lid, and pour in the stew.' Vermicelli Pi. Season four pigeons with pepper and salt, stuff each with a piece of butter, crumbs of bread, and parsley cut small; butter a deep earthen dish, and cover the bottom of it with two ounces of vermicelli. Make a puff paste, and lay it on the dish ; then lay in the pigeons, the breasts downwards, put a thick lid on the pie, and bake it in a moderate oven. When done, take a dish proper for it to be sent to table in, and turn the pie on it. The ver- micelli will be then on the top, and have a very pretty effect. Artichoke Pie. Boil twelve artichokes, break off the leaves and chokes, and take the bottoms from the stalks. Make a good puff-paste crust, and spread a quar- ter of a pound of fresh butter over the bottom of your pie ; then a row of artichokes ; strew pepper, salt, and beaten mace over them; then another row ; strew the rest of your spice, and put in a quarter of a pound more butter cut in bits. Boil half an ounce of truffles and morels in a quarter of a pint of water. Pour the water into the pie, cut the truffles and morels very small, and throw them all over the pie. Pour in a gill of white wine, cover, and bake it. llerb Pie. Pick two handfuls of parsley, half the quantity of spinach, two lettuces, mustard and cresses, a few leaves of burridge, and white beet-leaves ; wash, and boil them a little; drain, press out the 308 ART OF COOKERY. bot, or so es, taking off the fins ; lay it on the sea- soning, then pour in the liquor, close up your pie, and bake it. Flounder Pie. Cut, clean, and dry them; give them a gentle boil, and cut the flesh from the bones. Lay a good crust over the dish, put a little fresh butter at the bottom, and on that the fish. Season with pepper and salt. Boil the bones in the water the fish was boiled in, with a small piece of horse-radish, parsley, lemon-peel, and a crust of bread. Boil it till there is just liquor enough for the pie, strain and pour it over the fish, put on the top, and send it to the oven. Tench Pie. Cover the bottom of the dish with butter, and grate in nutmeg, with pepper, salt, and mace; then lay in the tench, cover them with butter, and pour in red wine, and a little water; put on the lid, and, when baked, put in melted butter mixed with rich gravy. Salmon Pie. Well clean and scrape a piece of fresh salmon, season it with salt, mace, and nutmeg; put a piece of butter at the bottom of the dish, and lay in the salmon. Melt butter in proportion to the size of the pie; boil a lobster, pick out all the flesh, chop it small, bruise the body, and mix it well with the butter: pour it over the salmon, make a good crust put on the lid, and bake it well. Herriny Pie. Scald, gut, and well wash them ; cut off the heads, fins, and tails. Make a good crust to cover PIES, TARTS, AND PUFFS 309 the dish, and season the herrings with beaten mace, pepper, and salt. Put butter in the bottom of the dish, and then the herrings; over these put apples and onions sliced very thin. Put butter on the top, pour in a little water, lay on the lid, and bake it. Lobster Pie. Boil two or three lobsters, take the meat out of the tails, and cut it in pieces ; take out all the spawn, and meat of the claws; beat it in a mortar, season it with pepper, salt, two spoonfuls of vinegar, and a little anchovy liquor. Melt half a pound of fresh butter, and stir altogether with the crumb of a roll rubbed through a fine cullender, and the yolks of ten eggs. Put a puff paste over the dish, lay in the tails first, and the rest of the meat on them; then put on the lid, and bake it in a slow oven. Lobster Patés. Cut the meat of a lobster into small pieces ; put a piece of butter into a stewpan; and, when melted, add flour to dry it up: then put in the pieces of lobster, with a little cream. Squeeze a lemon into it, add pepper and salt, make it hot, and fill the pans. Oyster Pie. As the oysters are opened, separate them from the liquor, strain, beard, and parboil them. Par- boil sweet herbs, cut them in slices, and lay them with the oysters in layers ; season very lightly with salt, pepper, and mace. Put half a teacup of liquor, and the same of gravy. Bake in a slow oven; before you serve, put a tea-cup of cream, some more oyster liquor, and a cup of white gravy, warmed, but not boiled. 310 ART OF COOKERY. Oyster Patés. Blanch the oysters, then beard them, and cut each oyster in about six pieces ; put a bit of butter into a stewpan ; when melted, add flour to dry it up; then put in the liquor of the oysters and a little cream ; squeeze a lemon, add pepper and salt, put in the oysters, make them hot, and fill the pâtés. Mince Pies. Rub and pick clean seven pounds of currants, and three pounds and a half of beef suet chopped fine, three pounds and a half of the lean of a sir- loin of beef minced raw, three pounds and a half of apples chopped fine (which should be the lemon pippin), half a pound.of citron cut in small pieces, half a pound of lemon peel, half a pound of orange-peel, two pounds of fine moist sugar, one ounce of spice (such as cloves, mace, nutmegs, and cinnamon pounded together and sifted), the rind of three lemons, and four Seville oranges. Rub all this together till well mixed ; then put into a deep pan; mix one bottle of brandy, one of white wine, and the juice of the lemons and oranges that have been grated, together in a basin ; pour half over, and press it down tight with your hand; then add the other half, and let it remain at the top to soak in by degrees ; cover up close. It should be made six weeks before wanted ; the pans must be sheeted with puff paste, and covered with the same. About ten minutes will bake them. Another Way. Boil a neat's tongue two hours, skin and chop it small; chop three pounds of beef suet very fine, three pounds of good baking apples, four pounds of currants clean washed, picked, and well dried Pies, TARTS, AND PUFFS. 313 but little baking. Gooseberries, to look red, must stand a good while in the oven. Apricots, if green, require more baking than when ripe. Fruit pre- served high must not be baked at all, but the crust should be baked first upon a tin the size of the tart. It may be cut with a marking iron; when cold lay it over the fruit. Tart de Moi. Put a puff paste round a dish, and then a layer of biscuit, then a layer of butter and marrow, ano- ther of all sorts of sweetmeats, and so on, till the dish is full. Boil a quart of cream ; thicken it with eggs, put in a spoonful of orange-flower water, sweeten with sugar, pour it over the whole, and bake it half an hour. Orange or Lemon Pie. Rub six oranges or lemons with salt, and put them into water, with a handful of salt in it for two days. Put every day fresh water, without salt, for a fortnight. Boil them tender, cut them into half- quarters, corner-ways, quite thin. Boil six pippins pared, cored, and quartered, in a pint of water till they bake; then put the liquor to the oranges or lemons, with half the pulp of the pippins well broken, and a pound of sugar. Boil them a quarter of an hour, then put them into a pot, and squeeze in two spoonfuls of the juice of either orange and lemon, according to the kind of tart. Put puff paste very thin into shallow patty-pans. Take a feather or brush, and rub them over with melted butter, sift double refined sugar over them, which will form a pretty iceing, and put them in the oven. Lemon Puffs. Bruise a pound of double-refined sugar, and sift on 2 E 314 ART OF COOKERY. it through a fine sieve. Put it into a bowl, with the juice of two lemons, and mix them together. Beat the white of an egg to a very high froth, put it into your bowl, put in three eggs, with two rinds of lemons grated. “Mix it well up, and throw sugar on your papers, drop on the puffs in small drops, and bake them in a moderately heated oven. Cranberry, Currant, or Damson Pies. Put the fruit into a dish, with moist sugar, and a little water. Put puff paste round the dish, and cover it with the same. Half an hour will bake it. Almond Tarts. Blanch and beat fine some almonds with a little white wine and some sugar (a pound of sugar to a pound of almonds), grated bread, nutmeg, cream, and the juice of spinach to colour the almonds. Bake it in a gentle oven ; and when done thicken with candied orange or citron. Green Almond Tarts. Pull the almonds from the tree before they shell, scrape off the down, and put them into a pan with cold spring water; then put them into a skillet with more spring water, set it on a slow fire, and let it remain till it simmers. Change the water twice, and let them remain in the last till tender. Then take them out, and dry them well in a cloth. Make a syrup with double-refined sugar, put them into it, and let them simmer. Do the same the next day, put them into a stone jar, and cover them very close ; for if the least air comes to them, they will turn black. The yellower they are be- fore they are taken out of the water, the greener they will be after they are done. Put them into your crust, cover them with syrup, lay on the lid, and bake them in a moderate oven. PIES, TARTS, AND PUFFS. 317 Plum Tarts. Sheet a tart-pan with short paste, and fill it as high as it will admit; put sifted lump sugar (no water), cover the tart over, and finish the same as any other tarts. Raspberry Tarts and Cream. Roll out thin puff paste, lay it on a patty-pan; put in raspberries, and strew fine sugar over them. Put on a lid, and when baked, cut it open, and put in half a pint of cream, the yolks of two eggs well beaten, and a little sugar; when this is done, put it in the oven for five or six minutes. Rhubarb Tart. Cut the stalks in lengths of four inches, and take off the thin skin. If you have a hot hearth, lay them in a dish; put over a thin syrup of sugar and water, cover with another dish, and let it simmer very slowly an hour, or do them in a block- tin saucepan, When cold make them into a tart. Spinach Tart. Scald, drain, dry, chop, and stew it in butter and cream, with salt, sugar, bits of citron, and a little orange-flower water. Put it in fine puff paste. Sweet Patties. Chop the meat of a boiled calf's foot, two apples, one ounce of candied orange and lemon-peel, some fresh lemon-peel, and juice; mix them with half a nutmeg grated, the yolk of an egg, a spoon- ful of brandy, and four ounces of currants washed and dried. Bake in small patty-pans. Patties, like Mince Pies. Chop the kidney and fat of cold veal, apples, 2 2 3 318 ART OF COOKERY. orange and lemon-peel candied, fresh currants, a little white wine, two or three cloves, a little brandy, and a bit of sugar. Bake as before. Veal Patties. Mince veal that is rather underdone, with parsley, lemon-peel, a little nutmeg and salt; add a little cream, and gravy just to moisten the meat; and if you have ham, scrape a bit and add to it. Do not warm it till the patties are baked ; and observe to put a bit of bread into each, to prevent the paste from rising into cake. Norfolk Pudding Puffs. Mix three eggs, three table-spoonfuls of flour, half a pint of cream, and two table-spoonfuls of orange-flower or rose water. Sweeten ; put the batter in large deep custard-cups about half full; set them in the oven ; when the puffs rise to the top of the cups, they are done. Sugar Puffs. Beat up the whites of ten eggs till they rise to a high froth, then put them into a marble mortar, with as much double-refined sugar as will make it thick. Rub it well round the mortar, put in a few carraway seeds, and take a sheet of wafers, and lay it on as broad as a sixpence, and as high as you can. Put them into a moderately heated oven, for a quarter of an hour, and they will look quite white. Wafers. Beat up for half an hour a spoonful of orange- flower water, two spoonfuls of flour, two of sugar, and the same of milk. Make your wafer-tongs hot, and pour a little of your butter in to cover PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. 319 your irons. Bake them on a stove fire, and, as they bake, roll them round a stick like a spiggot. When cold, they will be very crisp, and are proper to be eaten either with jellies or tea. PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. General Observations. In frying pancakes great attention must be paid in well cleaning the pan; before frying them, put a little clarified butter, or nice lard, into the pan, and when hot, wipe it out with a clean cloth. Then put in more lard, and fry your pancakes of a nice light brown, and drain them thoroughly from the fat. They should be sent to table a few at a time, and sugar strewed on each; if suffered to cool they become tough. Pancakes. Beat up six eggs, leaving out half the whites, and stir them into a quart of milk. Mix your flour first with a little of the milk; add the rest by de- grees. To make a better sort you may put in two spoonfuls of beaten ginger, a glass of brandy, and a little salt. Put a piece of butter into your pan, and then pour in a ladleful of batter, which will make a pancake; move the pan round, that the batter may spread all over it. Shake the pan, and, when you think one side is enough, turn it, and, when the other is done, lay it on a dish before the fire, and serve as quick as possible. When eggs are scarce, you may make the batter with flour and small beer, ginger, &c.; or clean snow, with flour and a little milk, will serve as well as eggs. 320 ART OF COOKERY. Cream Pancakes. Mix the yolks of two eggs with half a pint of cream, two ounces of sugar, beaten cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg. Rub your pan with lard, and fry them as thin as possible. Grate over them fine sugar. Rice Pancakes. Boil half a pound of rice to a jelly in a small quantity of water; when cold, mix with it a pint of cream, eight eggs, salt, and nutmeg: stir in half a pound of butter just warmed, and add as much flour as will make the batter thick enough. Fry in as little lard as possible. Pink-coloured Pancakes. Boil beet-root till tender, and then beat it fine in a marble mortar. Add the yolks of four eggs, two spoonfuls of flour, and three of cream. Sweeten, grate in half a nutmeg, and add a glass of brandy. Mix all well together, and fry your pancakes in butter. Garnish them with green sweetmeats, pre- served apricots, or green sprigs of myrtle. Plain Fritters. Grate the crumb of a penny loaf, and put it into a pint of milk; mix it smooth, and, when cold, add the yolks of five eggs, three ounces of sifted sugar, and grated nutmeg. Fry them, and, when done, pour melted butter, wine, and sugar into the dish. Custard Fritters. Beat up the yolks of eight eggs with one spoon- 'ful of four, half a nutmeg, salt, and a glass of brandy; put a pint of cream, sweeten, and bake it in a small dish. When cold, cut it into quarters, PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. 321 and dip them in batter made of half a pint of cream, a quarter of a pint of milk, four eggs, a little flour, and a little ginger grated. Fry them, and, when done, strew over them grated sugar. Apple Fritters. Pare, core, and cut in round slices, some large apples. Take half a pint of ale and two eggs, and beat in as much flour as will make it rather thicker than a common pudding, with nutmeg and sugar to taste. Let it stand three or four minutes to rise. Dip the slices of apple in the batter, fry them crisp, and serve them up with sugar grated over, and wine sauce in a boat. White Fritters. Wash two ounces of rice, dry it before the fire ; beat it very fine in a mortar, and sift through a lawn sieve. Put it into a saucepan; when thoronghly moistened with milk, add to it another pint. Set it over a stove or slow fire, and keep it moving; put in ginger, and candied lemon-peel grated. Keep it over the fire till the thickness of fine paste. When cold, spread it out with a rolling- pin, cut it into little pieces, and take care they do not stick to each other. Flour your hands, roll up the fritters handsomely, and fry them. When done, strew on them sugar, and pour orange-flower water over them. Hasty Fritters. Heat some batter in a stewpan; then take half a pint of ale, and stir into it, by degrees, a little flour; add a few currants, or chopped apples ; beat them up, and drop a large spoonful at a time all over the pan, but be careful that they do not stick together. Turn them with an egg-slice, and, when brown, lay them on a dish, strew sugar over, and serve hot. 322 ART OF COOKERY. Potatoe Fritters. Boil four well-scraped potatoes ; beat five yolks and three whites of eggs, and add to the above two dessert spoonsful of cream, the same of sweet wine, a little lemon-juice, and nutmeg. Beat this batter half an hour. It will be extremely light. Put a quantity of fine lard in a stewpan, and drop a spoonful of the batter at a time into it. When fried, you may serve as a sauce, a glass of white wine, the juice of a lemon, one dessert-spoonful of peach-leaf or almond water, and some white sugar, warmed together : not to be served in the dish. Orange Fritters. Pare off the outside of five or six sweet oranges, cut them in quarters, take out the seeds, and boil the oranges with a little sugar ; make a paste with white wine, flour, a spoonful of fresh butter melted, and salt ; mix it of a proper thickness : it should rope in pouring from the spoon. Dip the quarters of your orange into this paste, and fry them in lard till of a light brown. Serve them with glazed sugar, and a salamander. Currant Fritters. Take half a pint of ale, and stir into it flour to make it pretty thick, with a few currants. Beat it up quick, have the lard boiling, and put a large spoonful at a time into the pan. Strawberry Fritters. Make a batter with a spoonful of sweet oil, ano- ther of white wine, rasped lemon-peel, and the whites of two or three eggs ; make it just fit to drop with a spoon. Mix large strawberries with it, and drop them with a spoon into the hot fritters. When of a good colour, take them out, and drain PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. 323 them on a sieve. As soon as done, strew sugar over or glaze them, and serve hot. Raspberry Fritters. Grate the crumb of a French roll, and put to it a pint of boiling cream. When cold, add to it the yolks of four eggs, well beaten up. Mix all together with raspberry-juice; drop them into a pan of boiling lard in very small quantities. When done, stick over them blanched sliced almonds. Chicken Fritters. Put new milk, with as much flour of rice as will make it of a good thickness. Beat up three or four eggs, and mix them with the rice and milk. Add a pint of rich cream, set it over a stove, and stir it. Put in powdered sugar, candied lemon-peel cut small, and fresh grated lemon-peel. Take the white meat from a roasted chicken, pull it into small shreds, put it to the rest, and stir it all together. Then take it off, and it will be a rich paste. Roll it out, cut it into small fritters, and fry them. Strew the bottom of the dish with powdered sugar. Put in the fritters, and shake sugar over them. Almond Fraze. Blanch and steep a pound of Jordan almonds in a pint of cream, ten yolks of eggs, and four whites; take out the almonds, and pound them in a mortar; mix them again in the cream and eggs, put in sugar and grated bread, and stir them all together. Put fresh butter into a pan; and, when hot, pour in the batter, stirring it in the pan till of a good thickness. When done, turn it into a dish, and throw sugar over. Bockings. Mix three ounces of buck-wheat flour with a tea-cupful of warm milk and a spoonful of yeast; CUSTARDS AND CHEESECAKES. 325 Common Custards. Make these the same as almond custards, using orange-flower water instead of almonds. Or make them thus :—Sweeten a quart of new milk, beat up the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of four; stir them into the milk, and bake them in china basins. Or, put them into a deep dish, and pour boiling water round them till the water is better than half way up their sides ; take care the water does not boil too fast, lest it should get into the cups. Lemon Custards. Beat up the yolks of eight eggs till they are quite white; put to them a pint of boiling water, the rinds of two lemons grated, and the juice sweetened to your taste. Stir it on the fire till thick enough ; then add a large glass of rich wine, and half a glass of brandy; give the whole one scald, and put it in cups to be eaten cold. Orange Custards. Boil till tender half the rind of a Seville orange; beat it fine in a mortar, put to it a spoonful of brandy, the juice of a Seville orange, four ounces of loaf sugar, and the yolks of four eggs. Beat all well together for ten minutes ; pour in a pint of boiling cream by degrees. Keep beating till cold, then put them in cups, and place them in an earthen dish of hot water till set; take them out, stick preserved orange on the top, and serve either hot or cold. Rice Custards. Put a quartered nutmeg and a blade of mace into a quart of cream : boil, strain, and add to it soine whole rice boiled, and a little brandy. 2 r. CUSTARDS AND CHEESECAKES. 327 a thin puff paste at the bottom of your tins, and little slips across. Add half a dozen bitter al- monds. Bread Cheesecakes. Pour a pint of boiling water on a sliced roll, and let it stand two hours; take eight eggs, half a pound of butter, and a nutmeg grated. Beat them well together, and put in half a pound of currants, well washed and dried before the fire, and a spoon- ful of white wine or brandy. Then bake them in pattypans or raised crust. Curd Cheesecakes. Beat half a pint of good curd with four eggs, three spoonfuls of cream, half a nutmeg grated, and a spoonful of ratifia, rose, or orange water. Put to them a quarter of a pound of sugar, and half a pound of currants washed and dried before the fire. Mix all well together, put a good crust into the pattypans, and bake them gently. Lemon Cheesecakes. Boil the peel of two large lemons, pound well in a mortar 'with a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, the yolks of six eggs, half a pound of fresh butter, and some curd beaten fine. Mix all together, lay a puff paste on the pattypans, fill them half full, and bake them. Orange cheesecakes are done the same way ; but the peel must be boiled in two or three waters, to take off its bitter taste, before it is put in. Fine Cheesecakes. Warm a pint of cream, add to it five quarts of milk warm from the cow; and, when you have put a sufficient quantity of rennet to it, stir it till it comes to a curd ; then put the curd into a cloth or linen bag, and let the whey be well drained from 2 F 2 328 ART OF COOKERY. it, but do not squeeze it hard ; when sufficiently. dry, put it in a mortar, and beat it as fine as butter. To the curd add half a pound of sweet almonds, blanched, and the same quantity of ma- caroons, both beaten together as fine as powder. If you have none of the last, use Naples biscuits ; add the yolks of nine eggs, that have been well beaten, a nutmeg, and half a pound of double re- fined sugar. Mix all well together, add a pound of fresh butter, and stir well into it. Rice Cheesecakes. Boil four ounces of rice tender; put it in a sieve to drain. Put in four eggs well beaten, half a pound of butter, half a pint of cream, six ounces of sugar, a nutmeg grated, and a glass of brandy or ratifia water. Beat all well together, put them into raised crusts, and bake them. CAKES, BUNS, BISCUITS, &c. General Directions. Before beginning to make cakes, be careful to have all that is requisite to be used ready, and at hand. Do not beat up eggs till the minute they are wanted. Butter must be beaten to a fine cream before sugar is added. Cakes made of rice, seeds, or plums, should be baked in wooden girths, as by that means the outsides will not be burned, and they will rise better. The oven must be heated ac- cording to the size of the cake. Almond Cakes. Take two ounces of bitter and one pound of CAKES, &c. 331 flower water, or lemon-juice. Keep beating it all the time the cake is in the oven; and the moment it comes out, ice over the top with a spoon. Some put a grain of ambergris into the iceing, but that is too powerful for many palates. Biscuit Cakes. One pound of flour, five eggs beaten and strained, eight ounces of sugar, a little rose or orange-flower water ; beat the whole well together, and bake it one hour. Silta st wor zisistant at les 75 to 31 Ver ve for e whole for the almond gillot: Bristol Cakes. Mix with the hand, in an earthen pan, six ounces of sifted sugar, six ounces of fresh butter, four whites and two yolks of eggs, and nine ounces of flour; add three quarters of a pound of picked currants, drop the mixture with a spoon on tin plates, rubbed with butter, and bake it. Butter Cakes. Beat a dish of butter like cream with your hands; add two pounds of fine sugar well beaten, three pounds of flour well dried, and mix them in with the butter; add twenty-four eggs, leaving out half the whites, and then beat all together for an hour: just as you are going to put it into the oven, put in a quarter of an ounce of mace, a beaten nutmeg, a little white wine or brandy, and seeds or currants, as you please. Cream Cakes. Beat op the whites of nine eggs to a stiff froth; stir gently with a spoon, lest the froth should fall; to every white of an egg grate the rinds of two lemons. Shake in a spoonful of double-refined sugar sifted fine, lay a wet sheet of paper on a tin, and with a spoon drop it on in little lumps, at a a hace ] the me 1; takin which iced or the oret er ont in white o a from ned sugat uls of 332 ART OF COOKERY. small distance from each other. Sift a good quantity of sugar over them, set them in the oven after the bread is out, and close up the mouth of it: this will occasion the froth to rise. As soon as coloured, they will be sufficiently baked ; then take them out, and put two bottoms together; lay them on a sieve, and set them to dry in a cool oven. Common Bread Cake. Take about the quantity of a quartern loaf from the dough when making bread, and knead well into it two ounces of butter, two of Lisbon sugar, and eight of currants. Warm the butter in a tea- cupful of good milk. By adding an ounce of but- ter or sugar, you may make the cake better. A tea-cupful of raw cream improves it greatly. Bake it in a pan. A Common Cake. Take six ounces of ground rice, and an equal quantity of flour, the yolks and whites of nine eggs, half a pound of lump sugar, pounded and sifted, and half an ounce of carraway seeds. Mix these well together and bake it an hour in a quick oven. Currant Cakes. Take a pound and a half of fine dried flour, a pound of butter, half a pound of loaf sugar beaten and sifted, four yolks of eggs, four spoonfuls of rose-water, the same of wine, some mace, and a nutmeg grated. Beat up the eggs, and put them to the rose water and wine ; then add the sugar and butter. Work all together, strew in the currants and flour; have them ready warmed for mixing. Make six or eight cakes, and bake them crisp and of a fine brown. CAKES, &c. 333 Diet Bread. Sift and dry a spoonful of fine flour. Beat up eight eggs ; add a pound of beaten and sifted loaf- sugar by degrees ; beat them together for an hour and a half. Take the flour from the fire, and strew it in cold, with half an ounce of carraway and coriander seeds, mixed together and bruised The beating must not cease till the whole is put into the paper mould or hoop, and set in a quick, but not too hot, oven. One hour will bake it. Dutch Cakes. Take five pounds of flour, two ounces of carraway seeds, half a pound of sugar, rather more than a pint of milk, and three quarters of a pound of but- ter; then make a hole in the middle of the flour, and put in a pint of good ale yeast ; pour in the butter and milk, make these into a paste, let it stand a quarter of an hour before the fire to rise ; then mould and roll it into thin cakes ; prick them all over, or they will blister, and bake them a quarter of an hour. Flat Cakes that will keep. Mix two pounds of flour, one of sugar, and one ounce of carraways, with four eggs, and a few spoonfuls of water to make a stiff paste; roll it thin, and cut it into any shape. Bake on floured tins. While baking, boil a pound of sugar in a pint of water to a thin syrup; while both are hot, dip each cake into it, and put them, on tins, into the oven to dry for a short time ; and when the oven is cool, put them in again, and let them stay four or five hours. Ginger Cakes, for cold Weather. Beat up three eggs in half a pint of cream, put CAKES, &c. 335 rub in the ginger, sweetmeats, sugar, and the grated lemon and orange peel; make a hole in the middle of the flour, &c., then pour in the treacle, and mix it up with two spoons; when well mixed, prepare the baking sheets in the following manner (sheet iron is the best): make the sheets very clean; put them in the oven to warm ; dip a paste-brush into warm clarified butter, and brush the sheets lightly all over ; drop the gingerbread on the sheets in regular rows, and leave about two inches between each drop, or they will run together; about a tea-spoonful in each drop will be sufficient; a few minutes will bake them; the oven should be about the heat after the drawing of bread; when taken out of the oven, cool them before taking off the sheets. If you want to make nuts, mix a pound more flour to what is left from the cakes. When baked, the gingerbread should be put either in covered glasses or jars, and kept in a dry place; it will then keep crisp for months. Lemon Cakes. Put three spoonfuls of rose or orange-flower water to the whites of ten eggs; beat them an hour with a whisk; then put in a pound of beaten and sifted sugar, and grate in the rind of a lemon. When well mixed add the juice of half a lemon, and the yolks of ten eggs beaten smooth. Stir in three quarters of a pound of four : butter a pan, and bake it in a moderate oven for an hour. Orange cakes may be made in the same way. Macaroons. Scald, blanch, and throw into cold water, a pound of almonds ; dry them in a cloth, and pound them in a mortar ; moisten them with orange-flower water or the white of an egg, or they 338 ART OF COOKERY. currants and other ingredients, and two hours will bake it. Little Plum Cake. Take half a pound of sugar finely powdered, two pounds of flour dried, four yolks and two whites of eggs, half a pound of butter washed with rose water, six spoonfuls of cream warmed, and a pound and a half of currants, picked and rubbed in a cloth. Mix, and make them up into cakes, bake in a hot oven, and let them stand half an hour till coloured on both sides. Then take down the oven lid, and let them stand to soak. The butter must be rubbed well into the flour, then the eggs and cream, and then the currants. Pound Cake. Weigh a pound of flour, one of lump sugar sifted, one of currants, and the rind of two lemons grated ; mix all together by rubbing them between your hands, then put a pound of butter into a wooden bowl; set it before the fire often, if the weather be cold; when the butter is a little soft, beat it up with the hand till like cream ; break ten eggs into a proper-sized deep pan ; whisk them up till quite frothy; then put one-third of them to the butter, and beat them up with the hand till well mixed; then put in half what is left, and mix till it sticks to the bowl; then put in the remainder, and mix it well up; when it sticks to the bowl you may know it is well mixed, and light; then put in the four, &c., and mix well together; have cake- hoops or moulds papered, and put them in the oven ; the oven should be about the same as when the bread is just drawn; if a larger cake, of course the oven must be rather hotter. CAKES, &c. 341 whites well, and, with a large spoon, lightly put them to the yolks and sugar; stir the latter as little as possible, no more than to unite them together. Then mix with the whole eight ounces of fine flour ; and put the batter thus made into tin moulds well buttered, or they will stick too fast to be removed when baked. Before putting them in the oven, sift over the tops some powdered sugar, to give them a delicate ice. They must be baked in a moderately heated oven; and, when done, taken from the tins while hot. Tea Cakes. Take eight ounces of butter and rub it into a pound of flour; mix a pound of currants, and three quarters of a pound of sugar, four yolks and two whites of eggs, and a little brandy. Roll the paste thin, and cut them with a wine glass or tumbler. Twelfth Cakes. Make a cavity in the middle of six pounds of flour, set a sponge with a gill and a half of yeast and a little warm milk; put round it a pound of fresh butter in small lumps, a pound and a quarter of sugar sifted, four pounds and a half of currants, half an ounce of sifted cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of pounded cloves, mace, and nutmeg mixed, sliced candied orange, lemon-peel, and citron. When risen, mix all together with a little warm milk ; have the hoops well papered and buttered, fill and bake them. When nearly cold, ice them over. Colouring for Twelfth Cakes. Beat an ounce of cochineal very fine; put to it three gills of water, a quarter of an ounce of roche- alum, and two ounces of lump sugar; boil all to- 2 & 3 CAKES, &c. 343 into a light paste. Set it to rise by a fire till the oven he ready. They will quickly bake on tins. A Richer Bun. Mix a pound and a half of dried flour with half a pound of sugar; melt a pound and two ounces of butter in warm water, add six spoonfuls of rose- water, and knead it into a light dough, with half a pint of yeast; then mix five ounces of carraway comfits in, and put some over them. Common Biscuits. Beat up six eggs with a spoonful of rose water and one of wine : add a pound of fine powdered sugar, and a pound of flour ; mix them by degrees, with an ounce of coriander seeds, all well together; shape them on white thin paper or tin moulds, in any form you please ; beat the white of an egg, rub them over with a feather, and dust fine sugar on them; set them in an oven moderately heated, till they rise and come to a good colour, then take them out; when the oven is done with put them into it again, and let them stand all night to dry. Biscuit Drops. Take eight eggs, one pound of double-refined sugar beaten fine, and twelve ounces of flour dried ; beat your eggs well, put in your sugar, and beat it, and then your flour by degrees ; beat all well together without ceasing; your oven must be as hot as for rolls; then flour sheets of tin, and drop your biscuits of what bigness you please ; put them in the oven as fast as you can, and watch them as they rise : if they begin to colour, take them out and put in more ; if the first is not enough, put them in again : if well done, they will have a white ice on them; you may, if 344 ART OF COOKERY. you choose, put in a few carraways; when all baked, put them in the oven again to dry, then keep them in a dry place. French Biscuits. Take three new-laid eggs, with their weight in flour, and an equal quantity of powdered sugar. First beat up the whites of the eggs well with a whisk, till of a fine froth ; then stir in half an ounce of candied lemon-peel cut very small, and beat well ; then by degrees the flour and sugar; next put in the yolks, and with a spoon temper it well together, shape your biscuits on fine white paper with your spoon, and throw powdered sugar over : bake them in a moderate oven, not too hot : when baked, with a fine knife cut them off from the paper, and lay them in boxes for use. • Fruit Biscuits. Put to the pulp of any kind of scalded fruit an equal weight of sifted sugar; beat it two hours, then put it into little white paper forms, dry in a cool oven, turn the next day, and in two or three days box them. Hard Biscuits. Warm two ounces of butter in as much skimmed milk as will make a pound of flour into a stiff paste, beat it with a rolling-pin, and work it smooth. Roll it thin, and cut it into round biscuits ; prick them full of holes with a fork. Six minutes will bake them. Fine light Biscuits. Put five yolks of eggs into a pan with a few crisped orange flowers, and the peel of a lemon, both shred fine; add, also, three quarters of a CAKES, &c. 345 into thes, six mix it withoftenemingled other till them buttered munces of illow the sugar and, where pound of fine loaf sugar ; beat them together till the sugar be dissolved and well mingled with the eggs. Beat the whites of ten eggs; and, when well frothed, mix it with the sugar. Stir in, by degrees, six ounces of flour, and put the biscuits into buttered moulds; powder fine sugar, and bake them in a moderate heated oven. Naples Biscuits. Put a pound of white Lisbon sugar into half a pint of water, with half a gill of orange-flower water, and boil them till the sugar is melted. Break eight eggs, whisk them well together, and pour the syrup boiling hot on the eggs ; whisk while pouring it in, and till the mixture becomes cold. Then lightly mix with it a pound of fine sifted Aour, and put three sheets of paper on the baking plate ; make the edges of one sheet stand up nearly two inches high, pour into it the batter, sift powdered loaf sugar over the top, and set it in the oven, where it must be particularly attended to, or it will soon burn at the top. When carefully baked, let it stand till cold in the paper; then wet the bottom of the paper, till it comes easily off. The biscuits may then be cut into whatever size is preferred. Or the batter may be at first put into small tins, and so baked separately; but this is seldom done. Orange Biscuits. Boil Seville oranges whole in two or three waters, till nearly all the bitterness is gone; cut them, and take out the pulp and juice; then beat the outside very fine in a mortar, and put to it an equal weight of double-refined sugar beaten and sifted. When well mixed to a paste, spread it thin on China dishes, and set them in the sun, or before the fire; when half dry, cut it into what form you BREAD, &c. 347 Crack Nuts. Mix half a pound of flour and half a pound of sugar; melt four ounces of butter into two spoon- fuls of raisin wine ; then, with four eggs beaten and strained, make it into a paste ; add carraways, roll it out as thin as paper, cut with the top of a glass, wash with the white of an egg, and dust sugar over. Snow Balls. Pare and take the cores out of five large baking apples, and fill the holes with orange or quince marmalade. Make some good hot paste, roll your apples in it, and make your crust of equal thick- ness. Put them in a tin dripping-pan, bake them in a moderate oven, and when you take them out, make iceing for them. Let your iceing be about a quarter of an inch thick, and set them at a good distance from the fire till hardened ; but do not let them brown. Put one in the middle of a dish, and the others round it. BREAD, MUFFINS, CRUMPETS, &c. General Observations. In making bread, the construction of the oven should be particularly attended 10. It should be built round, and not lower from the roof than twenty inches, nor nigher than twenty-four inches. The mouth should be small, and have an iron door to shut quite close; by this means, less fire will be required, it will heat quicker, and bake every thing much better than one longer and higher roofed. 348 ART OF COOKERY. English Bread. Put a bushel of good flour into one end of your trough, and make a hole in the middle. Take nine quarts of warm water, by the bakers called liquor, and mix it with a quart of good yeast; put it to the flour, and stir it well with your hands till it is tough. Let it lie till it rises as high as it will, which will be in about an hour and twenty mi- nutes. Watch it when it comes to its height, and do not let it fall. Then make up your dough with eight quarts more of warm liquor, and one pound of salt: work it up with your hands, and cover it with a coarse cloth or sack. Put your fire into the oven, and by the time it is heated, the dough will be ready. Make your loaves about five pounds each, sweep your oven clean out, put in your loaves, shut it up close, and two hours and a half will bake them. In summer time your liquor must be lukewarm ; in winter, a little warmer, and in hard frosty weather as hot as you can bear your hand in it, but not hot enough to scald the yeast, for should that be the case, the whole batch will be spoiled. A larger or smaller quantity may be made in pro- portion to these rules. Excellent Rolls. Warm an ounce of butter in half a pint of milk, put to it a spoonful and a half of yeast of small beer, and a little salt. Put two pounds of flour into a pan, and mix in the above. Let it rise an hour; knead it well; make it into seven rolls, and bake in a quick oven. Leaven Bread. Take about two pounds of dough from your last baking, cover it with flour and keep it in a wooden 350 ART OF COOKERY. side, turn, and let them remain as long on the other. Then take them out and chip them with a knife instead of rasping them. Potatoe Bread. Boil six pounds of potatoes, work them with four ounces of butter, and as much milk as will cause them to pass through a cullender ; take a pint of good yeast and the same quantity of warm water, mix it with the potatoes, and pour the whole on ten pounds of flour; add salt as usual. Knead it well; and, if necessary, add more milk and warm water; then let it stand before the fire about an hour, to rise. Bake as for common bread. Method of discovering adulterated Bread or Flour. Slice the crumb of a loaf very thin, afterwards break it, though not very small, and put it with plenty of water into a large earthen pan or pipkin. Place it over a gentle fire, and keep it a long time moderately hot. - Pour out the bread, which will be reduced to a pap, and the bones, ashes, or whatever there may be, will be found at the bottom. This is a very simple process, and may be very easily tried. But where you have a cucurbit, the following is a more certain and regular method. Cut your bread as before directed, and put it into a glass cucurbit with a great deal of water. Place it in a sand furnace, taking care not to shake it. Let it stand twenty four hours, in a moderate heat. In this time the bread will be softened, and the ingre- dients separated from it. The alum will be dis- solved in the water, and may be extracted from it. If jalap has been used, it will form a coarse film on the top, while the more heavy ingredients will sink to the bottom. BREAD, &c. 351 Muffins. Build a place as if intended for a copper ; put a piece of cast iron all over the top, resembling the bottom of a copper or large iron pot : and, when wanted for use, make a fire of coal as in a copper. The best method of preparing muffins, is as follows. Put a quarter of a peck of fine white flour into the kneading trough; mix a pint and a half of warm milk and water, with a quarter of a pint of good mild ale yeast, and a little salt; stir them together for a quarter of an hour, strain the liquor into the flour, mix the dough as high as possible, and set it an hour to rise. Then roll it up with the hands, pull it into pieces the size of a walnut, roll them in the hand like balls, and lay a flannel over them while rolling up, keep all the dough closely covered up the whole time. The whole of the dough being rolled into balls, those first done will be ready for baking; they will spread out into the right form for muffins. Lay them then on the heated plate; and as the bottom begins to change colour, turn them on the other side. Great care must be taken to prevent their burning; and if the middle of the plate be too hot, put a brick or two in the centre of the fire to slacken the heat. A better sort is made by mixing a pound of flour with an egg, an ounce of butter melted in half a pint of milk, and two spoonfuls of yeast, beaten well together. Set it two or three hours to rise, and bake it in the usual way. Crumpets. Make them of a thin batter of flour, milk, and water, and a small quantity of yeast only; they are poured on the iron hearth like pancakes into a fry- ing-pan, which they must resemble both in form 2 H 2 352 ART OF COOKERY. and substance. They are very soon done on one side, and must be carefully turned in time on the other. Oat Cakes. These may be made the same as muffins, only substituting oatmeal for flour. Bake them the same, and observe never to use a knife for either, as that will make them heavy and spoil them ; but when toasted crisp on both sides, pull them open with the thumb and finger, and they will appear like a honey-comb; put in as much butter as is requisite, close and set them before the fire, when the butter is melted on one side turn them that it may spread to the other ; only use a knife to cut them across. Small Crusts for Wine or Cheese. Pull the crumb of a new loaf into small pieces, put them on a baking plate, and set them in a moderately heated oven till of a nice brown. Yorkshire Cakes. Mix two pounds of Aour with a quarter of a pound of butter melted in a pint of milk, two beaten eggs, and three spoonfuls of good yeast. Mix well together, and set it to rise ; then knead, and make it into cakes about six inches. They are to be baked in a slow oven, but must first stand on tins to rise. They are lighter made without the butter, but eat shorter with. They must be buttered hot out of the oven ; or cut in two when cold, toasted brown, and buttered. Rusks, or Tops and Bottoms. Beat up seven eggs, and mix with half a pint of new milk, in which has been melted a quarter of 354 ART OF COOKERY. put it with four spoonfuls of fresh yeast in a jug, shake it well together, and let it stand one day to ferment near the fire without being covered. There will be a thin liquor on the top, which must be poured off ; shake what remains, and cork it up for use. Take always four spoonfuls of the old to fer. ment the next quantity, always keeping it in suc- cession. To make Yeast with Pease. Take a tea-cup or wine-glass full of split or bruised pease, pour on them a pint of boiling water, and set the whole in a vessel four and twenty hours on the hearth, or in any other warm place; this water will be a good yeast, and have a froth on its top next morning. Any quantity may be made in this proportion. This recipe must prove highly serviceable where yeast cannot be easily obtained. POTTING. General Observations. All potted things should be well covered with butter; tied over with strong paper, and well baked. When done, the skins must be picked off quite clean, and the gravy drained off; otherwise what is potted may turn sour. Beat the seasoning well before it is strewed on, and when you pot the meat, &c., press it hard, and let it be quite cold before you pour the butter over it. Clarified Butter. Put some fresh butter into a stewpan, with a spoonful of cold water ; set it over a gentle fire to POTTING. 355 oil; skim, and let it stand till the sediment is? settled ; then pour off the oil, and when it begins to congeal put it over the respective articles. Beef. Take out two pounds of the fillet from the inside of a rump of beef, two pounds of fat bacon cut small, and put them into a marble mortar; add a little parsley, thyme, savory, four shalots chopped fine, some pepper, salt, two spoonfuls of essence of ham, a spoonful of mushroom powder, sifted mace, cloves, and allspice, two eggs beaten, and a gill of Rhenish wine : pound all together till fine, then fill small pots with the mixture, and cover with paper: bake it gently for forty minutes; when cold, cover it with clarified butter according to the gene- ral directions, Cold Beef. Cut it small, add to it melted butter, two an- chovies, boned and washed, and some Jamaica pepper beaten fine. Beat them well in a marble mortar till the meat be yellow, and pot as before directed Tongues. Mix an ounce of saltpetre, and four ounces of brown sugar; rub a neat's tongue well with it, and let it lie in it for two days. Then boil it till quite tender, and take off the skin and side bits. Cut the tongue in very thin slices, beat it in a marble mortar, with a pound of clarified butter; season with pepper, salt, and mace, and pot as usual. Veal. Take part of a fillet of veal that has been stewed ; or bake it on purpose : beat it to a paste with but 356 ART OF COOKERY. ter, salt, white pepper, and mace pounded, and proceed as before. Marblc Veal. Boil, skin, and cut a dried tongue quite thin, and beat it well with about a pound of butter, and a little beaten mace, till like a paste. Have ready some veal stewed, and beat it in the same manner. Then put some veal into potting-pots, and tongue in lumps over the veal. Lay your tongue on in lumps, and it will then cut like marble. Fill your pot close up with veal, press it down hard, and pour clarified butter over it. Keep it in a dry place, and when you send it to table, cut it into slices. Garnish it with parsley. Venison. Cut a piece of venison, fat and lean together, lay it in a dish, and stick pieces of butter all over ; tie brown paper over and bake it; when done, take it out of the liquor hot, drain, lay it in a dish; when cold, take off all the skin, and beat it in a marble mortar, season with mace, cloves, nutmeg, black pepper, and salt; when the butter is cold that it was baked in, take a little of it and beat in with it to moisten it; after which proceed in the usual manner. Hare. Case, wash, and thoroughly clean your hare; then cut it up as for eating, put it into a pot, and season it with pepper, salt, and mace. Put on it a pound of butter, tie it down close, and bake it in a bread oven. When done, pick the meat clean from the bones, and pound it fine, with the fat from your gravy, and pot it down according to the general direction, 'POTTING 357 . : Pheasants, Partridges, Chicken, Larks, and all kinds of small Birds. Pick and gut your birds, dry them with a cloth, season with mace, pepper, and salt; then put them into a pot with butter, tie it down with paper, and bake them in a moderate oven; when they come out, drain the gravy from them, and pot as already directed. Game should not be thrown away, even though it may have been kept a long time, as often, when it appears quite spoiled, it may be made fit for eat- ing, by nicely cleaning, and washing it with vine- gar and water. If there is danger of birds not keeping, draw, crop, and pick them; then wash them in two or three waters, and rub them with salt. Plunge them into a large saucepan of boiling water, one by one; draw them up and down by the legs, that the water may pass through them. Let them stay a few minutes in ; and hang them up in a cold place. When drained, pepper and salt the insides. Before dressing wash them. Birds which live by suction must not be done in this way, as they are never drawn, but they may be made very high. Lumps of charcoal put about birds and meat will preserve them from taint, and will even restore what is spoiling. Geese and Turkeys. Cut a fat goose and a turkey down the rump, and bone them; lay them quite open, season them all over with nutmeg (use three), as much white pepper, with double the quantity of salt. Lay the turkey within the goose, and keep them in season- ing two nights and a day; then roll them up like collared beef, very tight and short, and bind them fast with tape. Bake them in a long pan till ten- der. Let them lie in the hot liquor one hour; then 358 ART OF COOKERY. take them out, and let them stand till the next day; unbind them, place them in a pot, and pour clarified butter over. Keep them for use, and, as wanted, cut them in thin slices. Pigeons. Pick, draw, and cut off the pinions, clean, wash, and drain them. Dry them with a cloth, and sea- son with pepper and salt. Roll a lump of butter in chopped parsley, and put it into the pigeons. Sew up the vents, and then put them into a pot with butter over them, tie them down and bake them. When done, put them into your pots, and pour clarified butter over, as usual. Woodcocks. Pluck, and draw out the train of six woodcocks. Skewer their bills through their thighs, put their legs through each other, and their feet upon their breasts. Season with mace, pepper, and salt. Put them into a deep pot, with a pound of butter, and tie a strong paper over them. Bake in a moderate oven, and, when done, lay them on a dish to drain, Then put them into potting-pots ; put all the clear butter that comes from the gravy upon them. Fill up your pots with clarified butter. * Keep them in a dry place. Snipes should be done in the same manner. Moor Game. Pick, draw, wipe them with a cloth, and season with pepper, salt, and mace. Put one leg through the other, and roast them till of a good brown. When cold, put them into your pots, and pour over them clarified butter ; but let their heads be seen above. POTTING. 359 Ham with Chicken. Cut some slices off a boiled ham, with half as much fat as lean. Beat it fine in a mortar, with some oiled butter, beaten mace, pepper, and salt, and put part of it into a china pot. Beat the white part of a fow], with seasoning to qualify the ham : put it in alternate layers, with chicken at the top; press it hard down, pot as usual, and pour butter over. When sent to table, cut out a thin slice in the form of half a diamond, and lay it round the edge of the pot. Cheese. Cut and pound a quarter of a pound of Cheshire cheese, an ounce and a half of butter, a tea-spoon- ful of powdered loaf-sugar, a bit of mace, and a glass of white wine. Press it down in a deep pot. Bullace Cheese. Put ripe bullaces into a pot; to every quart put a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, beaten fine. Bake in a moderately heated oven till soft, and rub them through a hair sieve. To every pound of pulp add half a pound of loaf sugar beaten. Boil it an hour and a half over a slow fire, and stir it all the time. Then pour it into potting-pots, tie brandy paper over, and keep it in a cool place; when it has stood a few months it will cut very bright and fine. Potted Dripping for frying Meat, Fish, Fritters, &c. Boil six pounds of good beef dripping in soft water, strain it into a pan, and let it stand till cold; take off the hard fat, and scrape the gravy from the inside ; do this five or six times; when cold and hard, take it off clean from the water ; 360 ART OF COOKERY, put it into a large saucepan, with six bay leaves, twelve cloves, half a pound of salt, and a quarter of a pound of whole pepper ; let the fat be melted, and just hot enough to strain through a sieve into the pot : when quite cold, cover it up. The best way is to turn the pot upside down, as then nothing can get at it. Potted dripping makes delicious paste for puddings, &c., and will keep a long time. COLLARING. General Directions. Observe that, in collaring any thing, it must be rolled up neatly, and bound quite tight; otherwise, when cut, it will break in pieces, and its beauty will be lost. It must be well boiled, though not too much; let it be cold before turning it into the pickle. After lying all night in the pickle, take off the binding, put it in a dish, and, when cut, the skin will appear clear, and the meat firm. Beef. Bone, cut off the skin, and salt, with two ounces of saltpetre, a piece of thick flank of beef; put to it two ounces of sal-prunella, two ounces of bay salt, half a pound of coarse sugar, and two pounds of white salt. Beat the hard salts fine, and mix all together. Turn it every day for eight days, and rub it well with the brine; then take it out of the pickle, wash and wipe it dry. Take a quarter of an ounce of cloves, the same quantity of mace, twelve corns of allspice, nutmeg ground fine, with á spoontul of beaten pepper, a great deal of 362 ART OF COOKERY. nearly cold, bind it with a fresh fillet, and put it in a pickle made, as before directed, for breast of veal. Venison. Bone a side of venison, take off all the sinews, and cut it in square collars, of what size you please. Lard it with fat bacon, as big as the top of your finger, and three or four inches long. Season with pepper, salt, cloves, and nutmeg. Roll up, and tie close with coarse tape; put them into deep pots, with seasoning at the bottoms, fresh butter, and three or four bay-leaves. Put the rest of the sea- soning and buttər on the top, and over that beet suet finely shred and beaten. Cover up your pots with coarse paste, and bake them four or five hours. Then take them out of the oven, and let them stand a little ; take out your venison, and drain it from the gravy; add more butter to the fat, and set over a slow fire to clarify. Then take it off, let it stand a little, and skim it. Have pots ready for each collar. Put a little seasoning, and some of your clarified butter, at the bottom; then put in your venison, and fill your pot with clarified butter, and let your butter be an inch above the meat. When thoroughly cold, tie it down with dou- ble paper, and lay a tile on the top. It will keep months ; when you want a pot, put it for a minute into boiling water, and it will come out whole, Let it stand till cold ; stick bay leaves round, and a sprig at the top. Breast of Mutton. Skin a breast of mutton, bone it carefully with a sharp knife, without cutting through the meat. Pick all the fat and meat off the bones, grate nut- meg all over the inside of it, with beaten mace, pepper, and salt, sweet herbs shred small, crumbs COLLARING. 363 of bread, and the bits of fat picked from the bones. Roll it up tight, stick a skewer in to hold it toge- ther, but do it so as it will stand upright in the dish. Tie a packthread across it to hold it toge- ther ; spit, then roll the caul of a breast of veal all round, and roast it. When it has been about an hour at the fire, take off the caul, dredge it with flour, baste it with fresh butter, and let it be of a fine brown. It will take an hour and a quarter roasting. For sauce take some gravy beef, cut and hack it, flour, and fry it a little brown. Pour into your stewpan some boiling water, stir it well together, and then fill your pan half full of water, Put in an onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, a crust of bread toasted, two or three blades of mace, four cloves, some whole pepper, and the bones of the mutton. Cover close, and let it stew till rich and thick. Then strain, boil it up with truffles and morels, some mushrooms, a spoonful of ketchup, and, if at hand, two or three artichoke bottoms. Put salt enough to season the gravy, take the pack- thread off the mutton, and set it upright in the dish. Cut the sweetbread into four pieces, broil it of a fine brown, and have ready forcemeat balls fried. Lay them round the dish, and pour in the sauce. Garnish with sliced lemon. Another Way. Bone, and take out all the gristles of a breast of mutton. Rub it over with yolk of egg, and season it with pepper, salt, nutmeg, parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram, all shred small, and, if liked, shalots. Wash and cut an anchovy in bits. Strew all this over the meat, roll it up hard, tie it with tape, and put it in a stewpan to brown; add gravy well seasoned, and thicken with flour and butter. Put in truffles and morels, if approved, or pickled cucumbers, or gherkins sliced. 2 1 2 364 ART OF COOKERY. Pig. · Bone a pig, rub it all over with pepper and salt, sage leaves, and sweet herbs chopped small. Roll it tight, and bind it with a fillet. Fill your boiler with soft water, put in a bunch of sweet herbs, some pepper-corns, a blade or two of mace, eight or ten cloves, a handful of salt, and a pint of vine- gar. When it boils put in your pig, and let it boil till tender. Then take it up, and, when almost cold, bind it over again, put it into an earthen pot, and pour the liquor your pig was boiled in upon it. Cover it close down after you cut any for use. PICKLING. General Observations. Use stone jars for such things as require hot pickle to them : though they cost more, they are cheaper in the end, for they not only keep the pickle better, but will last considerably longer; earthen vessels being porous, admitting the air, and frequently spoiling the pickles, particularly if they stand long in them. This will not be the case with stone jars. Always take your pickles out with a spoon (a wooden one is best for the purpose); the hand or a fork would in a short time spoil them. No art need be used to keep whatever are pickled green ; they must be gathered on a dry day, when in season, and the following recipes strictly attended to. As vinegar is a most essential article in pickling, we shall commence with making it. 366 ART OF COOKERY. peck put two gallons of water. Mix well together, and let them work for three weeks, stirring them three or four times a day; then strain the liquor through a hair sieve; put to every gallon a pound of brown sugar, a pound of treacle, and a spoonful of fresh yeast; work it three or four days in the same tub, well washed. Run it into iron-hooped barrels, let it stand a year, then draw it off in bot- tles for use. Sugar Vinegar. To every quart of spring water put a quarter of a pound of the coarsest sugar; boil, and skim the liquor as long as any scum rises. Put it into a tub, let it stand till cool enough to work, and put into it a toast spread with yeast, of a size proportioned to the quantity made. Let it ferment a day or two; then beat the yeast into it, put it into a bag or barrel, with a piece of tile or slate over the bung- hole, and place it where it may have the heat of the sun. Make it in March, or the beginning of April, and it will be fit for use in July or August. If not sour enough, which is seldom the case when pro- perly managed, let it stand a month longer before bottling off. While making, it must never be dis- turbed after the first week or ten days; if in very fine weather, the bung-hole would be best left open all day, but must be closed at night. Before bottling it may be drawn off into a fresh cask; and, if it fill a large barrel, a handful of shred isinglass may be thrown in, or less, in proportion to the quantity; this, after standing a few days, will make the vinegar fine, and it may be drawn off, or bot- tled for use. This vinegar, though very strong, may be used in pickling for sea-store or exportation without being lowered; but, for home pickles, it will bear mixing with at least an equal quantity of cold spring water. There are few pickles for which PICKLING. 367 this vinegar need be boiled. Without boiling it. will keep walnuts, even for the East or West In- dies ; but then, as remarked in general of pickles for foreign use, it must not be mixed with water. If much vinegar be made, so as to require expen- sive casks, the outside should be painted, for the sake of preserving them. Tarragon Vinegar. Strip off tarragon-leaves while blooming; to every pound of leaves put a gallon of strong wine vinegar in a stone jug, to ferment for a fortnight. Then run it through a flannel bag, and to every four gallons of vinegar put half an ounce of isin- glass dissolved in cider. Mix, put it into large bottles, and let it stand a month to fine. Then rack it off into pint bottles, and use it as wanted. Wine Vinegar. Mix a quantity of vinous liquor with the lees, or the acid stalks of the vegetable from which the wine was prepared; stir it frequently, expose it to the rays of the sun, or in a warm place; it will ferment, and in a fortnight be good vinegar. Essence of Vinegar. During a hard frost expose vinegar to the weather in shallow vessels ; the watery parts will freeze, but the spirit will remain fluid. Repeatedly ex- pose the fluid as it is obtained, and, if it be a very cold season, a pint of strong vinegar will be re- duced, by the frequent exposure, to about a table- spoonful of a fine-flavoured essence, and very pun- gent. This is a most excellent sauce for fish, but particularly for lobsters and oysters. Mushroom Ketchup. Gather the broad-flapped and red-gilled mush- 368 ART OF COOKERY. rooms before the sun has discoloured them; wipe, and break them into an earthen pan. To every three handfuls throw in one handful of salt; stir them two or three times a day till the salt is dis- solved, and the mushrooms are liquid. Bruise what bits remain, set the whole over a gentle fire till the goodness is extracted ; strain the hot liquid through a fine hair sieve, boil it gently with allspice, whole black pepper, ginger, horse-radish, and an onion, or some shalots, with two or three laurel-leaves. Some use garlic, all the different spices, mustard. seed, &c.; but, if not wanted for long keeping, it is preferable without any thing but salt. After simmering some time, and well skimming, strain it into bottles ; when cold, close them with cork and bladder. If again boiled at the end of three months with fresh spice, and a stick of sliced horse-radish, it will keep very well for at least a year : but it seldom does this unless it be boiled a second time. Walnut Ketchup. Put what walnuts you please into jars, cover them with cold strong alegar, and tie them close for a twelvemonth. Then take out the walnuts, and to every gallon of liquour put two heads of garlic, half a pound of anchovies, a quart of red wine, and an ounce each of mace, cloves, long, black, and Jamaica pepper, and ginger. Boil all together till the liquor be reduced to half the quantity, and the next day bottle it for use. It will be good in fish-sauce, or stewed beef; the longer it is kept the better it is. Ketchup, to keep for Twenty Years. Take two gallons of stale strong beer or ale, the stronger and staler the better; a pound of ancho- " RICKLING. 371 stand all night to clear : to a pint of liquor put a pound of anchovies, half a pound of shalots, a clove of garlic, a quarter of a pint of strong white wine vinegar: cloves and mace, of each a quarter of an ounce, some Jamaica pepper-corns, and scraped horse-radish; put the whole into a well-tinned saucepan, and when it boils skim it well; boil it a reasonable time, pour it into an earthen pan ; when cold, strain, and bottle it up for use. With half the quantity of anchovies, and not all the shalots, it is excellent. Sprats, to eat like Anchovies. To a peck of sprats put two pounds of salt, a quar- ter of a pound of bay salt, four pounds of salt-petre, two ounces of sal-prunella, with cochineal ; pound all in a mortar, put them into a stone pot, a layer of sprat, one of the compound, and so on to the top; press hard down, cover close, and in six months they will be fit for use. Observe that your sprats be fresh ; and do not wash or wipe them, but take them as they come out of the water. Asparagus to Pickle. Gather and cut off the white ends of asparagus; wash the green ends in spring water; then put them into fresh water, and let them lie two or three hours. Put into a broad stewpan, full of spring water, a handful of salt ; set it on the fire, and when it boils put in the asparagus loose, not many at a time, and scald them; take them out with a broad skimmer, and lay them on a cloth to cool. Make a pickle of white wine vinegar, and an ounce of bay salt; boil it, and put the asparagus into a jar. To one gallon of pickle put two nutmegs, a quarter of an ounce of mace, and the same quantity of whole white pepper. Pour the pickle hot over the asparagus, and cover them with a linen cloth PICKLING. 375 Gherkins. Spread young gherkins (which are small cucum- bers) on dishes, and let them lie in salt a week ; cover with vine leaves, and proceed as for cucum- bers. Elder Buds. Gather your elder buds when about the size of hop buds, put them into salt and water for nine days, stir them two or three times a day, and pro- ceed as for cucumbers, using alegar for pickle. French Beans. Gather them before they have strings, and do the same as cucumbers. Nasturtiums, Love-apples, Capsicums, Scarlet and Kidney Beans, may be done in the same way. Lemons. Choose small ones with thick rinds : rub them with flannel ; then slit them half down in four quar- ters, but not through ; fill the slits with salt, set them upright in a pan till the salt melts ; turn them thrice a day in their own liquor, till tender ; make enough pickle to cover them, of vinegar, the brine of the lemons, Jamaica pepper, and ginger ; boil, skim, and, when cold, put it to the lemons, with two ounces of mustard-seed, and two cloves of garlic to six lemons. Melons and Mangoes. Do these like large cucumbers in imitation of mangoes. Mock Ginger. Take very large cauliflowers : first pick the flowers from the stalks ; peel, throw them into 2 K 2 376 ART OF COOKERY. strong brine for three days, drain, and put them in a jar; boil white vinegar with cloves, mace, long pepper, and allspice, half an ounce each, forty blades of garlic, a stick of horse-radish sliced, a quarter of an ounce of Cayenne pepper, a quarter of a pound of yellow turmeric, and two ounces of bay-salt ; pour it over the stalks boiling hot, cover it close till next day, then boil it again, and repeat it twice more; when cold, tie it down close. Mushrooms. Button mushrooms are the best for pickling; they must be well rubbed with flannel and salt. Throw a little salt over, and put them into a stew. pan with mace and pepper; as the liquor comes out, shake, and keep them over a gentle fire till all of it be dried into them again; then put vinegar into the pan to cover them, give it one warm, and turn all into a glass or stone jar. They will keep two years, and are very good. Mushroom Powder. Wash half a peck of large fresh mushrooms, free them from grit and dirt with flannel, scrape out the black part, and do not use any that may be worm-eaten ; put them into a stew-pan over the fire without water, with two large onions, some cloves, a quarter of an ounce of mace, and two spoonfuls of white pepper, all powdered ; simmer and shake them till all the liquor be dried up, but do not burn. Lay them on tins or sieves in a slow oven till they are dry enough to beat to powder; then put the powder in small bottles, corked, and tied closely, and keep in a dry place. Mushrooms for Sauces. Peel forced button mushrooms, wash and boil Mucho 380 ART OF COOKERY. tard-seed : bruise the whole together, put into a jar a layer of walnuts, strew them well over with the mixture, and proceed in the same manner till all are covered. Then boil three quarts of white wine vinegar, with sliced horse-radish and ginger; pour it hot over the walnuts, and cover close. Re- peat the boiling of the vinegar, and pour it hot over, three or four days, always keeping the pickle closely covered : add, at the last boiling, a few cloves of garlic, or shalots. In five months they will be fit for use. Codlings. Take codlings of the size of a double walnut, and put vine leaves thick at the bottom of a pan. Put in your codlings, cover with vine leaves and spring water ; put them over a slow fire till you can peel them; take them up in a hair sieve, peel them carefully; put them into the same water again, with the vine leaves as before. Cover close, and set them at a distance from the fire, till of a fine green; drain, put them in jars, with mace, and a clove or two of garlic.; cover with distilled vine- gar; pour mutton fat over, and tie them down tight. Currants. Pickle these as barberries, adding cinnamon and a few cloves. Golden Pippins. fake your pippins quite free from spots and bruises, put them into a preserving pan of cold spring water, and set them on a charcoal fire. Turn with a wooden spoon till they will peel : but do not let them boil. When enough, peel, and put them into the water again, with a quarter of a pint of the best vinegar, and a quarter of an ounce of 384 ART OF COOKERY. Blue Colour. This must be used as soon as made. Put a little warm water in a plate, and rub an indigo stone in it till of the colour you wish it. The more you rub, the higher the colour will be. Green Colour. Trim spinach leaves, boil them for half a minute in water. Strain it off clear, and it will be fit for use. Yellow Colour. Rub gambouge on a plate with a little water in it. Or take the heart of a yellow lilly, infuse the colour in milkwarm water, and preserve it in a bot- tle well stopped. Dcvices in. Sugar. Steep some gum-tragacanth in rose water, and with some double-refined sugar make it into a paste. Colour it to your fancy, and make up your device in any form you may think proper. Moulds are made in various shapes for this purpose : and your devices will make pretty ornaments for iced cakes. Sugar of Roses in Figures. Chip off the white part of some rose-buds, and dry them in the sun. Pound an ounce very fine; take a pound of loaf sugar, wet it in rose water, and boil it to candy height; then put in your pow- der of roses, and the juice of a lemon. Mix well together, then put it on a pie plate, and cut it into lozenges, or any kind of shapes or figures according to your fancy. If wanted as ornaments for a desert, you may gild or colour them as you please. 386 ART OF COOKERY. a pin, skin deep, and cover with French brandy. Tie a bladder over, and let them stand a week. Then take them out and make a strong syrup for them. Boil, skim, and put in your peaches, and boil them till they look clear; then take them out, and put them into pots or glasses. Mix the syrup with the brandy, and, when cold, pour it on your peaches. Tie them close down with a bladder, for, should the least air get to them, they will turn black, and be spoiled. Quinces. Quinces may either be preserved whole or in quarters. Pare them very thin and round ; put them into a saucepan, filled with hard water, and lay the parings over to keep them down. Cover close, set them over a slow fire till soft, and of a fine pink colour, and then let them stand till cold. Make a good syrup of double-refined sugar, boil, skim, and put in your quinces, let them boil ten minutes, take them off, and, after standing two or three hours, boil them till the syrup looks thick, and the quinces clear. Put them into deep jars, and cover close with brandy-paper and leather. Grapes. Take them in close bunches, not too ripe, and lay them in a jar. Put to them a quarter of a pound of sugar candy, and fill the jar with brandy. Tie them up close with a bladder, and set them in a dry place. Green Codlings. Gather your fruit when of the size of a walnut, with the stalks and a leaf or 'two on them. Put them with vine leaves into cold spring water, and proceed as for apricots. CONFECTIONERY, &c. 387 Golden Pippins. Boil the rind of an orange tender, and lay it in water two or three days. Pare, core, and quarter a quart of golden pippins, boil them to a strong jelly, and run it through a jelly bag. Then take twelve of the largest pippins, pare and core them. Put a pint of water into a stewpan, with two pounds of loaf sugar. Boil, skim, and put in your pippins, with the orange rind in thin slices. Let them boil fast till the sugar is thick, and will al- most candy. Then put a pint of the pippin jelly, and boil them fast till the jelly is clear. Squeeze in the juice of a lemon, give it a boil, and, with the orange-peel, put them into pots or glasses. Green Gager. Get them quite sound, prick them with a fork about the stalks ; put them into cold water, or they will turn black ; scald them, and have another pan with boiling syrup; drain off the water, and put them into a deep earthen pan; place them regu- larly, and pour the boiling syrup over ; let them stand till next day, then drain the syrup from them; boil it again, and put it over them; repeat it seven or eight days; then take another pan, drain the syrup from them, place your fruit in it; boil fresh syrup for half an hour, and put it over them; cover up close. Morella Cherries. Take them when full ripe, pick off the stalks, and prick them with a pin. To every pound of fruit put a pound and a half of loaf sugar; beat part of the sugar, strain it over, and let them stand all night. Dissolve the remainder of your sugar in half a pint of currant juice, set it over a slow 2 L 2 390 ART OF COOKERY. sugar and half water; boil, skim, and put the ap. ples in; do them very gently : when done, take them off, and let them cool in the sugar, then set them in the ashes; and if the syrup is too thin, set it again over the fire, and give it the height re- quired. Conserve of Orange Peel. Steep the rinds of oranges in water of a moderate heat till tender ; then strain them, pound them in a marble mortar, bring the pulp to a proper con- sistence over a gentle fire, add to it thrice its quantity of sugar, and reduce it to a conserve by beating in a mortar. Syrup of Capillaire. Clarify with three whites of eggs four pounds of loaf sugar, mixed with three quarts of spring water, and a quarter of an ounce of isinglass; when cold, add to it orange-flower water to make it palatable, and a little syrup of cloves. Put it into bottles close corked for use. Apricots, preserved in Brandy. Get some pale apricots, that are not too ripe; put them into a pan of water, covered with paper, and let them simmer till soft ; take them out, put them in a large table-cloth four or five times dou- ble, and cover up close ; then have some of the best uncoloured French brandy, and put ten ounces of powdered sugar to every quart of brandy ; let the sugar melt, then put your apricots into a glass jar, fill it up with brandy, and cover close with leather and bladder, now and then filling up your jar with brandy, as the apricots suck up a good deal; cover close, or they will lose their colour. 332 ART OF COOKERY. pint of juice put a pound and a half of double- retine I sugar pounded and sifted. Shake in your sugar, and, when melted, pour it on plates. Dry it in a stove, and turn it in any form you like. Gooseberry Paste. Take full-grown red gooseberries, cut them in halves, and take out the seeds. Have ready a pint of currant juice, and boil your gooseberries in it till tender. Put a pound and a half of double- refined sugar into your pan, with water to dissolve it, and boil it to a sugar again. Then put all to- gether, and make it scalding hot, but not to boil. Pour it into your plates or glasses, and dry it as before directed. Bergamot Drops Squeeze four or five lemons in some pounded sugar, mix well together with a wooden spoon, put about twenty drops of essence of bergamot into it, and mix well with your spoon: stir it over the fire three or four minutes, drop them off your knife about the size of orange or lemon drops, and make them round: let them stand till cold : they must be dropped on writing paper. Peppermint Drops. These may be done the same as the preceding, substituting a little oil of peppermint for the ber- gamot. Barley Sugar. Put some syrup into a butter saucepan with a spout, and boil it till it comes to carimel ; care- fully take off whatever scum may arise ; and, hav- ing prepared a marble stone either with butter or oil, to prevent sticking, pour the syrup gently, along MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 393 the marble, in long sticks of whatever thickness may be liked; twist it, while hot, at each end ; and let it remain till cold, when it will be fit for imme- diate use. The rasped rind of lemon, boiled up in the syrup, gives a pleasant flavour to barley sugar. . Currant Jelly. Take some ripe red currants, with one-third of white; pick, and put them into a preserving pan over a good fire, to dissolve: run their liquor through a flannel bag, and to a pint of juice add fourteen ounces of sifted sugar; boil quick, skim, and reduce to a good thickness, which may be known by putting a little into a saucer, and setting it in cold water. Black Currant Jelly. Make this the same as the above ; instead of fourteen, putting sixteen ounces of sugar to every pint of black currant juice. Raspberry Jelly. Wash your raspberries well with a spaddle, put them on the fire in a preserving pan, stirring all the time ; when on the boil take them off, and strain them through a hair sieve : let no seed pass; put your jelly into another pan, and let it boil twenty minutes before you put the sugar in; stir all the time; put fourteen ounces of sugar to every pound of jelly, let it boil twenty minutes, stirring well; when cold put it in pots; sift powdered sugar over; let it stand one day, and then cover it up: this jelly is good to make ice cream with. Apple Jelly. Take one dozen and a half of russetings, pare, core, and cut them into a preserving pan; cover 394 ART OF COOKERY. them with water, and let them boil to a marmalade; drain them; have as much syrup in another pan as there comes jelly through the sieve; boil it till it almost comes to carimel; put the jelly to the syrup, and let it boil ten minutes. Calf's Foot Jelly. Boil two calves' feet in a gallon of water, till re- duced to two quarts ; strain, and, when cold, skim off all the fat; take the jelly up clear from the sediment; put it into a saucepan with a pint of mountain wine, half a pound of powdered sugar, and the juice of four lemons; whisk six or eight whites of eggs ; put them in, and stir them with the jelly till it boils ; let it boil a few minutes ; pour it into a flannel bag, and it will run through quick ; pour it again till it runs clear; have ready a large china bowl, with two lemon peels rasped thin ; let the jelly run into it, and then put it into your glasses. Fruits in Jelly. Put half a pint of clear calf's foot jelly, when stiff, into a bowl ; lay in three peaches and a bunch of grapes with the stalks upwards. Put vine leaves over, and fill up your bowl with jelly. Let it stand till the next day, and then set it to the brim in hot water. When it gives way from the basin, lay your dish over it, turn your jelly care- fully out, and serve it to table. Blanc Mange. Take one pint of milk, and half a handful of picked isinglass; boil it till all the isinglass is melted ; strain it through a sieve : pound four ounces of sweet and six or seven bitter almonds fine; put a little spice in your milk; when you boil it, mix your almonds with the milk : pass it through a sieve again, put it in your moulds, and let it stand till cold. BREWING. 397 BREWING. General Observations. From the increased and increasing dearness of all descriptions of malt liquor, and from its frequent adulteration, by which the health and lives of the public are impaired and endangered, it has become almost the duty of every family to brew for itself. In this process, which will here be found much simplified, there is far less difficulty than is gene- rally imagined. First, with respect to the best season for brewing, moderate weather should be chosen. Hot weather should be avoided. But all beers will keep best when brewed just before Christ- mas. The cellar should not be subject to either extremity of heat or cold. Brewing Vessels. For a copper holding twenty gallons, the mash- tub ought at least to contain four bushels of malt. The copper, with room for mashing or stirring, the coolers, and working tubs, may be rather fitted to the convenience of the room than to any particular size, as, if one vessel be not sufficient, you may take another. Management of the Vessels. As it is necessary that the vessels should be per- fectly clean, and free from mustiness, you must strictly examine them on the day before you intend to brew. They should never be converted to any other purpose, except for the use of making wines ; and, even in that case, after done with, they should be properly cleansed, and kept in a place free from dirt. Let each cask be well cleansed with boiling water; and, if the bung-hole be large enough, 2 M BREWING. 401 about six ounces of hops to a bushel of malt; but in warm weather it will be necessary to apply about half a pound to a bushel. The first proportions mentioned are proper when the best beer is intended to be kept ten or twelve months ; but, if the beer is to be kept sixteen or eighteen months, there should be a pound of hops to every bushel of malt. Circumstances, however, will occasionally render it necessary to vary the proportions; as, if the hops are old, a greater quantity of them must be allowed. One of the first things to be observed, in the process of brewing, is to obtain a heat proper for extracting the virtue of the malt. The heat of the water, or liquor, as it is technically termed, should be regulated in a mash-vat, so as to prevent any injury to the delicate and more soluble parts of the malt, and yet to obtain every necessary property. The frequent errors committed in this first stage is a principal cause why the beer, in private fami- lies, so frequently proves contrary to their expecta- tion : either too high or too low a heat is prejudi- cial: the former is of the utmost consequence ; but the latter, as far as regards extracting the con- tents of the malt, may be remedied in the suc- ceeding mashings.--Should the infusion be made at too high a heat, the consequence will be, that of setting the goods, or mash; that is, from its vio- lence, the sweet of the malt will be in a great measure locked up, and retain with it a considerable portion of the wort; therefore, besides falling short of the intended quantity, the extract will be de- prived of that strength and quality which it ought to possess, in consideration of the quantity of malt allowed for the purpose ; and it will be matter of great difficulty to obtain, by the succeeding mash- ings, the whole virtue of the malt. Should the operation be performed when the water is below its 2 m 3 BREWING, 403 complete extract of all the essential properties of the malt, it will be worth while, in most families, to purchase one; taking care to obtain a table with it, for its mode of application. If possessed of a thermometer, observe the following rules : Im- mediately that the water is turned from the copper into the mash-vat, immerge the instrument for about the space of one minute : the state of the quick- silver in the tube will then be easily discerned ; if found to be too hot, apply cold water in small quantities, till reduced to a proper heat ; in some instances it may be proper to vary the extracting heat; such as when very new malt is brought into the mash-vat, the water in that instance should be applied from 4 to 6 degrees colder ; and very old or slack malt will require it as many degrees warmer. When hard water is used, it should be applied 4 degrees warmer, and soft water 4 degrees colder. At all events, as soon as the boiling water is emptied into the mash-vat, the cold water must be immediately mixed with it, and the mash- ing performed as expeditiously as possible; taking care to saturate, or wet, every part of the malt. Should the copper not be large enough to make a full mash the first time it is heated, every means of dispatch must be exerted to get it hot again ; and then directly turn into the mash-vat the quantity that is judged necessary for the length or quantity of wort to be drawn off, stirring the mash again thoroughly, to incorporate the whole. This addi- tion of water may be applied about four degrees warmer than the first. The mash-vat should now be covered close with sacks, or something similar, and remain two hours before it is suffered to run. The heat of the water for the second mash re- quires less attention than was necessary in the former ; as, admitting that to have been well con- ducted, there cannot now arise inuch danger of in- 404 ART OF COOKERY. juring the malt. The best method for the second mash is, to let the water boil up well, and then throw into the copper a small quantity of cold water, in the proportion of one to about twenty- five gallons; and, by the time it is on the goods, or mash, it will in general be a good heat. This second mash will be the better for being covered close ; and, as to the time of its standing, that must be regulated by the boiling of the first wort; as, after it has boiled long enough, and is fit to strain into the coolers, the second wort must be ready to return into the copper. The third mash may generally be made with cold water, unless any part of the virtue of the malt, owing to the ill treatment of the preceding mash- ings, is thought to remain; in which case hot water must be used. This mashing, as well as the two preceding, should be stirred; and, after it has run off, and the brewing is to be pursued the next day, it will be proper to put on the goods about as much cold water as the copper might contain, well stirring it again; and immediately as the small beer is boiled off, return it into the copper for the next morning's mashing. By this mode of pro- ceeding, it is scarcely possible that any of the rich saccharine properties of the malt should remain un- extracted. Boiling. In the preparation for boiling, the greatest care must be taken to put the hops in with the first wort. As soon as the copper is full enough, make a good fire under it, but be careful to leave room enough for boiling. Quick boiling is part of the business that requires very particular attention. Should the copper have no curve, or any thing to hinder its boiling over, there ought to be something of the kind constructed, high enough to prevent any material danger crising from losing any part BREWING. 407 sary to add more yeast, which must be stirred into the tun in the same manner as when first set to work. Indeed, after this, it may be found proper repeatedly to beat in the head, and stir it for two or three minutes together, which is a measure of necessity, to revive the fermentation, after having been checked by the coldness of the weather, as to be in danger of never working properly in the casks, after being tunned. Observe that, wherever the tun may be placed, it will be proper to keep it always covered close ; and thereby to prevent as much as possible the escape of the fixed air, which is generated by the fermentation, The number of hours which the strong beer fer- mentation will continue depends on the weather, and other circumstances : sometimes it will be com- plete in forty or fifty hours, and at other times ex- ceed sixty hours. The greatest reliance that can be placed with regard the period of cleansing is to pay attention to the head of the guile; and it will be observed, after being some time in its most vigo- rous state, to begin to turn rather of a brown yeasty nature ; and, by repeated attendance, it will be clearly perceived to get more dense and dis- coloured, till the work is completed, which will be perfectly understood by its appearing of a thick yeasty consistence, and just ready, as it were, to fall back into the beer : it then ought to be tunned immediately, as it is better to tun a few hours too soon than one too late. Tunning. Strong beer that is brewed in small quantities, and ale, whatever tne quantity may be, should be tunned the second day after brewing; and small beer should be tunned as soon as it has fairly taken the yeast, which will be seen by the creamy ap- pearance on its surface. 410 ART OF COOKERY. stir it well with a stick or whisk : the beer so fined should be tapped soon, because the isinglass is apt to make it flat as well as fine. Or boil a pint of wheat in two quarts of water, and squeeze out the liquid through a fine linen cloth. A pint of this will be sufficient for a kilderkin of ale, and will both fine and preserve it. Or take a handful of salt, and the same quantity of chalk scraped fine, and well dried ; then take some isinglass, and dissolve it in some stale beer, till it is about the consistence of syrup ; strain it, and add about a quart to the salt and chalk, with two quarts of molasses. Mix them all well toge- ther with a gallon of the beer, which you must draw off ; then put it into the cask, and take a stick, or whisk, and stir it well till it ferments. When it has subsided, stop it up close, and in two days you may tap it. This is sufficient for a butt. Or take a pint of water, and half an ounce of unslacked lime : mix them well together, letting the mixture stand for three hours, that the lime may settle at the bottom. Then pour off the clear liquor, and mix with it half an ounce of isinglass, cut small, and boiled in a little water; pour it into the barrel, and in five or six hours the beer will become fine. To preserve and recover Beer when flat. As stormy weather and thunder greatly affect beer, in such weather it should be examined, and if, on drawing the vent peg, it appears to fret, draw out the bung, and let it remain out some days till the liquor is at rest. There are two reasons why beer that is kept a considerable time drinks hard and stale. The first is, the great quantity of sediment that lies at the bottom of the cask; and the second is, keeping it too long in the working tub. To prevent this flat- BREWING. 411 ness, take a quart of French brandy, and put as much wheat or bean flour into it as will make it into a dough; roll this in long pieces, and let it fall gently through the bung-hole to the bottom. This will keep the beer in a mellow state, and in- crease its strength. Or to one pound of treacle or honey, add one pound of the powder of dried oyster shells; or of soft mellow chalk; mix these into a stiff paste, and put it into the butt as before. Or dry a peck of egg shells in an oven, break and mix them with two pounds of soft mellow chalk ; add some water, in which four pounds of coarse sugar have been boiled, and put it into the cask. This will be enough for a butt. Observe that your paste, or dough, must be put into the cask when the beer has done working, or soon after, and bunged down. At the end of nine or twelve months, according to the nature of the beer, tap it, and you will find it answer your ex- pectations. The best mode of recovering strong beer, where it has grown too stale to be pleasant drinking, is to brew an equal quantity of new beer, and mix in with the old. Hop, and fine it down as already directed above, and in a few weeks it will be excel- lent beer. Should this not be convenient, take four or five gallons out of each hogshead, and boil it with five pounds of honey ; skim it well when cold, and put it into the casks again ; then stop it up close, and it will make the beer drink strong and pleasant. Or take two ounces of new hops, and a pound of chalk broken into several pieces ; put into the cask, and bung it up close : in three days it will be fit to drink. This is the proper quantïty for a kil- derkin. Another way is, to take a fine net, and put into 2 N 2 BREWING. 413 adding from two to three pounds of essentia bina to a barrel of old hock. Welsh Ale. Pour forty-two gallons of water hot, but not quite boiling, on eight bushels of malt; cover, and let it stand three hours. In the mean time infuse four pounds of hops in a little hot water, and put the water and hops into the tub, and run the wort upon them, and boil them together three hours. Strain off the hops, and keep them for the small beer. Let the wort stand in a high tub till cool enough to receive the yeast, of which put two quarts of ale, or if you cannot get it, of small beer yeast. Mix it thoroughly and often. When the wort has done working, the second or third day, the yeast will sink rather than rise in the middle; remove it then, and tun the ale as it works out; pour a quart in at a time, and gently, to prevent the fermentation from continuing too long, which weakens the liquor. Put a bit of paper over the bung-hole two or three days before stopping up. Imitation of Windsor or Queen's Alc. The following proportions will produce sixteen gallons, or half a barrel, of good imitation of Wind- sor ale : Best pale malt, well ground, a bushel ; finest and sweetest hops, previously soaked all night in cold water, a pound; clarified honey and sugar, each a pound ; liquorice root, well cut and bruised, a quarter of a pound; grains of paradise ground, half an ounce ; orange-peel, a quarter of an ounce; and coriander seed, cinnamon, and an- gelica root, each a drachm. To be brewed in the usual way, at three mashes; using bean flour in- stead of common four, and a little salt at cleansing. From this, with proper management, an excellent small or table beer may also be easily obtained. 2 x 3 BREWING. 415 tles, put into each of them a tea-spoonful of raw brown sugar: or two tea-spoonfuls of rice or wheat : or, six raisins. Any of these will answer the purpose. Spruce Beer. Pour eight gallons of cold water into a barrel ; and then, boiling eight gallons more, put that in also : to this add twelve pounds of molasses, with about half a pound of the essence of spruce; and, on its getting a little cooler, half a pint of good ale yeast. The whole being well stirred, or rolled in the barrel, must be left with the bung out for two or three days ; after which the liquor may be immediately bottled, well corked up, and packed in saw-dust or sand, when it will be ripe, and fit to drink, in a fortnight. Remember that it should be drawn off into quart stone bottles, and wired. White Spruce Beer. For a cask of six gallons, mix well together a quarter of a pound of the purest essence of spruce, seven pounds of loaf sugar made into a clarified syrup, and about a gallon and a half of hot water; and, when sufficiently stirred and incorporated, put it into the cask, and fill up with cold water. Then add about a quarter of a pint of good ale yeast, shake the cask well, and let it work for three or four days ; after which bung it up. In a few days it may be bottled off after the usual man- ner; and, in a week or ten days, it will be fit for use. If, on bunging it close, about a quarter of an ounce of isinglass, first dissolved in a little of the warmed liquor, or in cider, be stirred in, by way of fining, it will acquire a superior degree of clearness. In proportion to the coldness of the weather the quantity of yeast should be increased. Some, instead of yeast, use ale or beer grounds 416 ART OF COOKERY. the first time of making ; and, afterwards, the grounds of their former spruce beer. In warm weather very little ferment is requisite. Spruce Wine. For this, which is only a superior sort of white spruce beer, proceed as follows: To every gallon of water take a pound and a half of honey, and half a pound of fine starch. The starch, however, previously to its being blended with the honey, liquor, or syrup, must be reduced to a transparent jelly, by boiling it with part of the water purposely preserved. A quarter of a pound of essence of spruce may be used to five gallons of water; and the same method may be pursued in working, fining, and bottling, as directed above for the white spruce beer. Cider. For making this agreeable beverage, take red- streaked pippins, pearmains, pennetings, golden pippins, &c., when they are so ripe that they may be shaken from the tree with tolerable ease; bruise or grind them very small, and, when reduced to a mash, put them into a hair bag, and squeeze them out by degrees : next put the liquor, strained through a fine hair sieve, into a cask well matched; then mash the pulp with a little warm water, adding a fourth part, when pressed out, to the cider. To make it work kindly, heat a little honey, three whites of eggs, and a little flour together; put them into a fine rag, and let them hang down by a string to the middle of the cider cask; then put in a pint of new ale yeast pretty warm, and let it clear itself from dross five or six days; after which draw it off from the lees into smaller casks, or bot- tles, as you think proper. If you bottle it, take care to leave the liquor an inch short of the corks, BREWING. 417 lest the bottles burst by the fermentation. Should any such danger exist, you may perceive it by the hissing of the air through the corks; when it will be necessary to open them, to let out the ferment- ing air. Apples of a bitter taste produce the strongest cider ; but you must observe never to mix summer and winter fruit together. To fine and manage Cider. For the former purpose use isinglass finings; and, to prevent the cider from growing sour, put a little mustard in it. To improve the appearance and flavour of a hogshead of cider, take a gallon of good French brandy, with half an ounce of cochineal, a pound of alum, and three pounds of sugar-candy ; bruise them all well in a mortar, and infuse them in the brandy for a day or two ; then mix the whole with your cider, and stop it close for five or six months. Perry. Perry is made in the same manner as cider, only from pears, which must be quite dry. The best pears for this purpose are such as are least fit for eating, and the redder they are the better. To bottle Cider and Perry. Both of these liquors, when bottled in hot wea- ther, should be left a day or two uncorked, that they may get flat; but if they are too flat in the cask, and are soon wanted for use, put into each bottle a small lump or two of sugar-candy, four or five raisins of the sun, or a small piece of raw beef; any of which will much improve the liquor, and make it brisker. Cider should be well corked and wired, and packed upright in a cool place. 418 ART OF COOKERY. ENGLISH WINES. General Observations. Very great care and attention are requisite in making wines. Should the wine stand too long before it is cold, and the yeast not be put on it in time, it will fret, and be very difficult to fine. It must not work too long in the butt, as that will take off the flavour of the fruit: the vessels must be perfectly clean and dry, and rinsed with brandy. As soon as the wine has done fermenting, close it up. Raisin Wine. To one gallon of water put six pounds of sun raisins ; let it stand in a tub twelve days, stir fre- quently, press the raisins as dry as possible, and put the liquor into a cask of the proper size : to ten gallons put a quart of brandy. If you wish to make it very rich, you may put seven pounds of raisins to a gallon, and dissolve five pounds of sugar-candy in the liquor before you put it into the barrel ; when made thus it must stand longer, and is scarcely inferior to any foreign wine. Currant Wine. The currants should be gathered on a dry day, when quite ripe; strip them, put them into a large pan, bruise them with a wooden pestle, and let them stand twenty-four hours to ferment: then rub it through a hair sieve, but do not let the hand touch the liquor. To every gallon of this liquor stir in two pounds and a half of white sugar, and put it into a vessel. To every six gallons add one quart of brandy, and let it stand six weeks : if fine, bottle it; if not, draw it off clear into another vessel, or large bottles; and, in a fortnight, bottle it up for use. Gooseberry Wine. Gather the gooseberries in dry weather, when 4:20 ART OF COOKERY. take twenty-four pounds of black cherries, and bruise them, without breaking the stones : pour the hoiling water upon the cherries, and stir them well together; after they have stood twenty-four hours, strain the liquor through a cloth; to every gallon add two pounds of sugar; then mix it well, and let it stand a day longer.- Pour off the clear liquor into a cask, and keep it close bunged: when fine, bottle it off for use. Cherry, Raspberry, or Strawberry Wine. Either of these may also be made in the follow ing manner :- Bruise, and put your fruit into a linen bag; press out the juice into a cask : then draw off the fine liquor into a clean cask, bung it close for forty- eight hours, after which give it vent, and in two days' time bung it up again. In three months it may be bottled off. Mulberry Wine. Gather your mulberries when they are just turn- ing from red to black, and at that time of the day when they are dry from the dew, having been taken off by the heat of the sun. Spread them loose on a cloth, or clean floor, and let them lie twenty- four hours. Then put them into a convenient vessel for the purpose, squeeze out all the juice, and drain it from the seeds. Boil up a gallon of water to each gallon of juice you get out of them ; then skim the water, and add some cinnamon slightly bruised. Put to each gallon six ounces of white sugar-candy finely beaten. Skim and strain the water, when taken off, and settled ; and put to it some more juice of the mulberries. To every gallon of the liquor add a pint of white or Rhenish wine. Let it stand in a cask to settle for five or six days, and then draw it off, and keep it in a cool place. 422 ART OF COOKERY. Apricot Wine. Wipe clean and cut twelve pounds of ripe apri- cots ; put two gallons of water, and let them boil till the water has imbibed the flavour of the fruit ; then strain the liquor through a hair sieve, and put to every quart of liquor six ounces of loaf sugar : after which boil it again; skim it, and when the scum has ceased to rise, pour it into an earthen vessel. The next day bottle it off, putting a lump of sugar into every bottle. Raspberry Wine. Bruise your raspberries with a spoon, and strain them through a flannel bag into a stone jar : to each quart of juice put a pound of double-re- fined sugar ; stir it well together, and cover it close. Let it stand three days, then pour it off clear. To a quart of juice add two quarts of white wine, and bottle it off. It will be fit to drink in a week. Raspberry brandy made thus is much better than by steeping the fruit. Orange W’ine. Put twelve pounds of powdered sugar, with the whites of eight or ten eggs well beaten, into six gallons of spring water ; boil them three quarters of an hour; when cold, put into it six spoonfuls of yeast and the juice of twelve lemons, which, being pared, must stand with two pounds of white sugar in a tankard, and in the morning skim off the top, and then put it into the water; add the juice and rinds of fifty oranges, but not the white or pithy parts of the rinds ; let it work all together two days and two nights; then add two quarts of Rhenish or white wine, and put it into your vessel. Cowslip Wine. Take six gallons of water, and to every gallon put two pounds of loaf sugar; boil it about an ENGLISH WINES. 423 hour, and then let it cool. Toast a piece of bread, and spread both sides of it with yeast; but before you put it into the liquor add to every gallon one ounce of the syrup of citrons. Beat it well in with the rest, and then put it in the toast while warm. Let it work for two or three days; in the mean time put a peck of cowslip flowers, bruised a little, with three lemons sliced, and one pint of white wine to every gallon. Let it stand three days, then put it into a good clean cask; and when fine, bottle it off. Elder Wine. Pick your berries when quite ripe, put them into a stone jar, and set them in an oven, or in a kettle of boiling water till the jar is hot through; then take them out, and strain them through a coarse sieve ; squeeze the berries, and put the juice into a clean kettle. To every quart of juice put a pound of fine Lisbon sugar; let it boil, and skim it well. When clear and fine, pour it into a cask. To every ten gallons of wine add an ounce of isin- glass dissolved in cider, and six whole eggs. Close it up, let it stand six months, and then bottle it. English Claret. Take six gallons of water, two gallons of cider, and eight pounds of Malaga raisins bruised; put them all together, and let them stand close covered in a warm place for a fortnight : stir it every other day. Then strain the liquor into a clean cask, and put to it a quart of barberries, a pint of the juice of raspberries, and a pint of black cherry juice. Work it up with a little mustard-seed, and cover with a piece of dough three or four days by the fire-side; then let it stand a week, and bottle it off. When fine and ripe, it will be like common claret. 2 o 2 424 ART OF COOKERY. English Champaign. Boil nine pounds of moist sugar in three gallons of water for half an hour; skim it well, and pour the boiling liquor on one gallon of currants picked from the stalks, but not bruised; when cold, fer- ment it for two days with half a pint of ale yeast; then pour it through a flannel bag into a clean cask with half a pint of isinglass finings. When it has done working, stop it up for a month, and then bottle it off. Put a lump of sugar into every bottle. This is an excellent wine, and is of a most beautiful colour. English Port. Put eight gallons of good port into a sixty-gallon cask, first fumed with a match : add to it forty gallons of good cider, and fill the hogshead with French brandy. The juice of elder-berries and sloes will give it the proper roughness, and cochi- neal will colour it. Turnip-juice, or raisin cider, may be used in- stead of cider, and British spirits instead of French brandy. English Mountain. Pick out all the large stalks of some Malaga raisins; chop them very small, and put five pounds to every gallon of cold spring water. Let them remain a fortnight or more, then squeeze out the liquor, and put it into a proper cask, after having been fumigated with a match. Let it remain un- etopped till the hissing or fermentation has ceased ; twin bung it up, and, when fine, bottle it off. Rhei Ginger Wine. Take soven pounds of Lisbon sugar into four out two påpring water · boil them a quarter of an 426 TABLE OF INCOME AND WAGES. This TABLE shows by the Day, Week, Month, and Year, from One Penny to Ten Pounds per Day, how much per Week, Month, and Year. Per Day. Per Week. Per Month. Per Year. £. s. d. t'. s. d. £. s. d. £. s. d. 0 0 1 0 0 7 0 2 4 1 10 5 0 1 2 0 4 8 3 0 10 4 11 3 09 6 1 8 01 8 7 12 1 0 14 0 9 2 6 0 16 10 12 11 12 3 4 13 13 9 7 U O O O O or wrote 0 16 14 0 18 5 0 36 10 0 54 1 73 91 109 1 127 JA6 164 C OG GOT LA LA W W W U N N N N 00000000000 000000oC o o o w oson or como ARA A WNN- 00000000000000000000000000 now con D 000000000000000000000000000000OOORA WA Amounts to O O 182 10 7 00 8 8 0 9 16 0 11 4 0 12 12 0 14 0 0 15 8 0 16 16 0 18 4 0 19 120 21 00 22 8 0 23 1 26 4 26 2001 219 0 0 10 0 0 11 0 12 0 13 0 14 0 0 15 0 16 0 0 17 0 18 0 19.0 0 237 5 OOOO ao T OOOOOO 255 10 273 15 292 310 5 328 10 346 14 365 0 730 1095 1460 1825 2190 2995 2920 3285 0 0 3650 0 0 49 0 56 0 63 0 ( 70 0 112 140 168 196 224 252 280 0 0 0 0 ome 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 MARKETING TABLES. FROM ONE FARTHING TO THREE HALFPENCE. No. of 1 Farth. I & Farths. | 3 Farths. || Penny. || Penny t|| Penny, lbs.&c s. d.. | s. d. B. G. 8. d. B. G. I 8. d. | s. d." -- • 10 12 . 8 19 .10 .100 0 11 oil, 1 . 1 10 లులులులులులు నినినినినినినినిని----------00000000 27 - లలల..ల.. నినినినినిని--------000000 | ఉలునినినినినినినినిని------------------------0000000000000000000000| 128 29 లలలలలలలలలోని నినినినినినినినినినిని 100----------------00000000000000 -సంగా అయిపొందేం ==ం-Fణంగంతేసం పందెం -208-13 అN -నాల కోసం కాంగం పొందిందాం తోసిపోందంగాణ -07 అయి-----------లలలలలలలలలలలలని నినినినినినినినినినిని------------0000000000! --500- 00 అంతం నా చంపా-సోంపాం నాం * Mana - 10 -- M 010 201 . OIC 011 011 .IN oil 1 . 1101 111 1 in -meru chethulan 53 అనం-oooooooouter . "[56 . 55 70 +84 53 10 6 100 2 . 63 84 12 6 (112 -48 7 . 118 1 . . One quarter of acwt. | One half cwt. : Three quarters do. | The great emt. . MARKETING TABLES. FROM ONE FARTHING TO THREE HALFPENCE. No. of 1 Farth. I & Farths. | 3 Farths. || Penny. || Penny || Penny , Ibs.&c s. d. S. G. | s. d. 8. d. B. G. 6. d. 10 . • 4 6 --m 0 100 1 . 11 . 19. . . 8 లులులులులులు నినినినినినినిని----------00000000 G ణం లేలేతం చేయడం Tr --నినినినినినినినిని------------------------0000000000000000000000 -----పంచాంపౌందేం-20-షాణపందేలతో పందెం - 08-11 -నాలతోంంంంతోపాంబంలో శాంతొసోపాయం 83.. లతనినినినినినినినినినినినిని----------------000000000000000 Noteeటలు ---- -- లలల..ల.. నినినినినిని--------0000 -0-00-00-00-0-00-00 అని 0 లులులులులులులని నినినినినినినినినినిని-- Note-0-00-00-00-0-00- 0 - - - జంగాణ పోరా పోలయ నారాంతma - - . 010 0 101 - 108 011 A tilo FIL. TIO 1 . 110 110, 111 | 11 0 5 10, 6 . . . 4. 20-aaaaaaaaarture - enter Maa 55 "56 48 184 1 . 53 89 100 21 84 105 126 (112 18 14 24 . On quarter of a cwt. t One half cut. ! Three quarters do. | The great emt. అను 4:18 MARKETING TABLES. FROM A PENNY THREE FARTHINGS TO THREEPENCE. No. of 1 Penny || 2 Pence. le Pence - 2 Pence + 12 Pence at 3 Pence. Ibs.&c s. d. Is. d. Is. d. 14. B. d. 14. s. d. 12. s. d. 04. 06 0 31 051 0 1 . 84 Note to 04 06 | 8 0 10 10 12 05 07 010 10 13 153 08 TIT - 0 101 --- పలు | 4 5 - 10ని-------- AH-లు - లులులులులులని 1000 1010-----000 --assocmmmmm లులులు నినినినిని---1000 ANA A Adah - 17 తను - 39 10 -- KI . - 21 దు - 292 - Gree - -- CA- 25 Maa A 23 7 7 - - - - - ఆలులు లలలలలుని - 55 577 510 6 . 63 --మీను ----లులులులులు నినినినిని---- - నింతే.. ని...- . nod -- oman నింతం -ANANoooooobalert No. - నింగా ని05 + అఅఅయి 6 10, లు" AnnAkAvA ---Noooooo anna- on----a... 68 0 10, 000000 34 35 13 -- 36 76 లు ANTHA తెలు - 71 40 ANA D A- 11 . AN ana-ANN-Nooooooo are ----265000లలలల - A00. ఉరుము ఉAH canు అఅఅఅఅఅఅఅ 0000 10 SS 51 10 11 3 11 6 11 9 12 . 11 2 11 5 10, 11 8 10 10 1111 19 19 19 4, 10 3 11 5. 12 74 13 9 106 11 12 10 | 159 17 619 311. | 18 9 10 10 121 15. 10 11 34 15 180 - 53 డాలు 54 113 13 6 55 14 . (56 184 12 3 (100 147 (112 164 14. | 168 18 8 bones inclui MARKETING TABLES. 429 FROM THREEPENCE FARTHING TO FOURPENCE HALFPENNY. No. of 3 Pence || 3 Pence | | 3 Pence at - Pence. | 4 Pence - 4 Pence , Ibs.&ck. s. d. ఓ. 8. d. | £. 8. d. | ఓ. 8. 1. 2. 3. d. ఓ. 3. d. 07 • 6, 09 • . Noun 0 10, 13 07 .ila 13 16 to లులులు నినిని... . లలలున . 13 14 15 16 17 onులులునినినిని--- . ourలులులు నినిని అంతం..aa..aa.లులునిని-- అలులు AN AT A AA 000ల 18 ...aaa. . 65 68 70 73. -000000జనిని--- 10-00-00-00-00-00-00-00-00009 600 0000-00-00-00 0000 అజ 20 అంది 77 . AAH 1 21 [28 . . cha+ Aదో-సాలు లేని సంపంగెం పోందేహం రేవంతే 29 7102 10 6 10 101 11 3 11 10 71 Aps 10 TE 32 11 33 10 11 34 అలఅలలు 12 35 118 12 107 1011 It 3 | 6 10 12 12 10 10 12 38 12 13 13 39 1 . . 13 . 13 13 13 10. 143 14 - 15 . 1540 159 161 A0 103 10 6 10 10 11 1 114 117 11 411 42 11 8 Mal 12 3 14 14 14 6 14 lol 1598 157 151 43 12 16 08 14 14 16100 173 13 163 Hosanna Hom 15 18 12 - 17 14 15 16 16 R 13 15 15 17 14 32 157 141 1511 110 19l 163 19 6 16 6 19 10 . 19 1 14 10. 160 1954 | 10 158 152 16 4 17 188 19 10 110 (84 | 1 2.1.61 63|180 1199 111 . (100 11111 .21111 31 134 115 51 17. [111 | 10 . 1 13 . 1 13 . 1 17 . 1 19 . 2 2 . 14 14 Naa 15 15 14 14 1 . 55 430 MARKETING TABLES. FROM FCURPENCE THREE FARTHINGS TO SIXPENCE. No. of] 4 Pence at 5 Pence. 15 Pence 415 Pence 15 Pence aj 6 Pence. lbs.&c £. s. d. | £. s. d. | £ . 8. d. | ఓ. s. d. | . s. d. ఓ. s. d. 010 13 • 10, 13 19 0 11 14 110 011 157 11 17 20 teen - ఆట నిని--- Unna 4 + లు నిల- - .00 - ..No.000లలని-- అలం 441 ON-0000-లునిని-- --0000000000-లులులు ని-- consooలలనిని-- 56 5111 65 610, 7 . అఅఅs.com A Aa Aను నటులు a . .. Anna Anch . . ఉడు 08 మం 56 సోం - సాంపో కోణంగా హాసోంగారు . 13 14 5- 16 16 - - 15 106 in on 10 6 11 . ll 6 12 . 9109 105 10111 115 illa | 1037 10 10 11 4 11 11 12 57| 1087 113 12 4 12 11a 11 11 8 12 10, 135 11 5 12 1 13 13 108 11 100 12 6 14 4 12 11 14 101 15 12 13 4 154 16 13 9 13 14 1-10, 15 13 104 147 1600 143 15. 159 16 6. 14 73 155 16 ll 15 10 17 5 155 163 17 108 168 176 18 4. 1 . 171 18 99 | 10 17 6 193 1 . 11 17 11 1987 | 10 18 4 102, 20 18 9 1 0 73 116 1 1 1 71. | 116 126 100 1 2 .. 105 135 1 . 10 1 211. 1 311 113 | 1 3 4 1 4 51 118 1 3 10. 14| 10 | 12 113 114 35 | 154 54 1147 126 137 149 15107 55 | 119 1211 | 14 15 16 417 156 1. 134 146158 | 6 10 | 180 113 3 1 15 . 1 169 118 6 2 . 3 2 . 0 | 100 | 1 19 1 2 182 39 1 5 10 | 21 || 210 (112 : 2 4 4 | 2 6 . 2 9 0- 2 || 4 |2 13 8 1 2 16 . R S.NO100 A0A0A0A0 APina- 11. 17 18 201 18 10 13 .com ని 432 MARKETING TABLES. FROM NINEPENCE HALFPENNY TO ONB SHILLING. No. of]g Pence d 10 Pence. | 10d. ||| Pence. I lid. | 1 Shil lbs.&|f. 8. d. |8. B. d. e. s. d. |e. 8. d. . . d. 4. 5. d. 19 . 8 17. -- . 1110 11 II 11 118 123 12 10 1110 126 13 1 139 198 134 14 . 135. 14 2 14 lol 15. 159 15 . 1510 16 1510 168 17 167 175 19 311 182 0 11 1 1 10 112 . 0 10 | 11101211 101. 291 310 41. 14 37.14 1 : 1 21, 139 10 14 6 1 154 168 || 110 8 1 12 176 11 . 611 184 111 2 11 12 1 114 178 19 2 11 12 1 113 61 15 186 110 0 113 0114 6 1116 19 3 111 10 10 113 11 115 51 17 1 10 1 11133 114 10 11 165 118 1101 11 12 6 11141 11159 117 11. 8 113 4 11 15. 116 112 5.1 142 111510 117 113 31 15.1169 1118 6 1114 115 10 117 7 119 5 114 10 11 168 | 1 16 81118 6 12 . 4 1 15 11176 12 13 116 184 20 1 2 2 2 117 2 | 2 31 1 180 | 24 118 9. | 24 261 1 1 197 • 510 271 | 24 4 | 2 68 | 2 || 4 2138 3 66 13 3 13 6 1 3 17 0 4 . 6 3 19 2 14 14 15 10 (112 ..4 8814 13 15 .. | 574 - 118 20-నిలు. 60-630-Menen నినినినినిని---- ఉటంటే-000లు 10-0 లు నినినినిని-- Aondon 100 J. HADDON, PRINTLR, CASTLE STREET, TINSBURY. THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY REFERENCE DEPARTMENT This book is under no circumstances to be taken from the Building form 410