Cooking for profitJessup Whitehead *-;«.* T«W*' >-- '^^>fc- NV \\ exº~. * COOKING FOR PROFIT. A New American Cook Book ADAPTED FOR THE USE OF ALL WHO SERVE MEALS FOR A PRICE. Originally Published in the "San Francisco Daily Hotel Gazette,' JESSUP WHITEHEAD." V OHIC-A.O-0. 1886. . Entered according to Act of Congress, in the office of the Librarian at Washington, by Jkssup Whitehead, 18S2.-AU rights reserved. Published by the Aothnr at the Publishing House ol John Anderson A Co., 183—187 N Peorli St. CHICACO. ILL. PREFACE. This book is in many respects a continu- ation of the preceding volumes in the series, it fulfills the designs that were intended but not finished before, more particularly in the second part which deals with the cost of keeping up a table. It is not an argument either for or against high prices, but it embodies in print for the first time the methods of close-cutting management which a million of successful boarding- house and hotel-keepers are already prac- tising, in order that another million who are not successful may learn, if they will, wherein their competitors have the advant- age. At the time when the following in- troduction was written, which was about four years before the finish, I was just setting out, while indulging a rambling propensity, to find out why it was that my hotel books which were proving admirably adapted to the use of the ten hotels of a resort town were voted "too rich for the blood" of the four hundred boarding-houses; also, it was a question how so many of these houses running at low prices are enabled to make money as easily as the hotels which have a much larger income. At the same time some statistician published a statement that attracted attention showing that the vast majority of the people of this land have to live on an income of less than fifty cents a day. At the same time also an English author published a little book, which, however, I have not seen and did not need, with the title of "How to live on sixpence a day," (twelve cents) which was presumptive evidence that it could be done. In quest of information on these points I went around considerably and found a good many "Mrs. Tingees" who were not keep- ing boarding-houses, and I honor them for the surpassing skill that makes the fifty cents a day do such wonders; but the right vein was not struck until the opportunity occurred to do both the buying and using of provisions from the very first meal in a Summer Boarding House. In reference to unfinished work I take the liberty here of saying that the bills of fare in this book with the quantities and proportions and relative cost from the con- tinuation and complete illustration of an article entitled "The Art of Catering" in Hotel Meat Cooking. Knowing how much to cook, how much to charge, how to pre- vent waste and all such questions raised there are carried out to an answer In these pages. In regard to the use of French names for dishes it is necessary that a statement should be made. A great reform has taken place in the last ten years in the com- position of hotel bills of fare, and the subject matter of these books having been widely diffused by publication in the hotel news- papers, has undoubtedly had much to do with the improvement that is now observ- able. My own design was, however, to ex- plain French terms, give their origin and proper spelling, and to that end I had a mass of anecdotes, historical mention and other such material collected to make the explanations interesting. As a preliminary, I began exposing the absurdities com- mitted by ignorant cooks and others trying to write French, and before this had pro- ceeded far the newspapers took up and advocated the idea that French terms should be abolished altogether. If that was to be the way the knot of misspelling and mis- naming dishes was to be cut, there was no use for my dictionary work and the mate- rial was thrown away; I followed the new path and it proves a plain and sensible one. At the same time there is an aspect of the subject which cooks seeking situations perceive and editors of newspapers may never think of, and that is that there are many employers whom the reform has not reached who will pay a hundred dollars for a cook who can give his dishes imposing foreign names more willingly than fifty dollars to a better cook who can only write United States. First class hotels which have all the good things that come to market avoid French terms. They that have turkey and lamb, chicken, peas and asparagus, oysters and turtle and cream want them shown up in the plainest read- ing; to cover them up with French names would be injudicious; but if we have but the same beef and mutton every day, the aid that a few ornamental terms can give is not to be despised. First of all it is requisite that those who use such terms should know what they are intended to in- dicate and how they should be spelled and then they can be taken or left according to the intelligent judgment of those con- cerned. J. W Cookino for Profit. INTRODUCTORY. The pleasing discovery has recently been made by the writer, in the pursuit of a new business, that the interest in the subject ot cookery is universal and only wants the proper sort of instructors, the right kind of books and some way ot making it known that they are the right kin I to set everybody to trying their capa- bilities in this at once the most useful and most ornamental art. True, there are cook books already by the hundreds, but that is not all that is required, a greater difficulty than to write and compile a book on the subject is to get people to read it, and certain pages or even cer- tain items that might be veritable jewels of knowledge at times to the possessors of the books lie there undiscovered. We have already tried the conversa- tional style in writing about cooking, and have reason to be satisfied with the re- sults of the experiment as far as it has gone. We have the satisfaction at least of finding that what has been written has been read, and what we have learned of our subject has in that manner been made plain to such readers as had need of the knowledge. Amongst all the commendations of our published hotel book, the "American Pastry Cook," received from the work- ers who have tried and know, and some of whom have even written gratefully for the help i hey found in it, we have met no harsher adverse criticism than that of a fashionable caterer of prominence in his own city, who said that it was too good; that if the author could make the arti- cles in it, and as good as described, he ought to be in a certain famous hotel, "where the best they can get is not good enough for them." This though not intended for praise, certainly was praise of the highest kind, for the book having the ambitious title of American Pastry Cook, and the vol- ume next to come being the American Cook, ought not 10 show American cook- ery and the American table to be in any repect inferior to that of any other nation or people whatsoever. That book does, and the whole work will when comple- ted contain the cheapest and best articles as well as the costlier kinds, but cheap- ness is not put in the foreground. It is now proposed to ruu serially in th;' Hotel Gazette a book with some original features, having the cost of each articl COOKING FOR PROFIT. 3 usually near enough for cooking to call a cup £ pound. Butter size of an egg is 1£ ounces.' Lard.—Same as butter. Sugar.—A level cup of granulated sugar is 7 ounces—2 cup is 2 ounces less than a pound. Although sugar by the grain is heavier than water, and will sink instantly the air spaces between the grains make a cupful weigh less than so much liquid. \ pound of granulated sugar is a cup rounded up. The pow- dered sugar that is known as fine gran- ulated weighs the same, icing sugar or flour of sugar is lighter, a cup is but 6 ounces. All that can be scooped up in a cup out of a barrel of any grade weighs 9 ounces. Brown sugar a level cup is 6 ounces. Up in the mountains the cake receipts people have been used to, fail. It is all because of the sugar. So much sugar cannot be used at great elevations as at sea-level, hence the reason for be- ing particular about the weights. Molasses.—A cup of thick molasses weighs 12 ounces—that is three-quar- ters of a pound—half as much as water and 5 ounces more than so much sugar. Thin syrups, however, do not weigh quite so much. Flour.—A level cup of flour is 4 ounces. A cup heaped up with all that can be dipped with it out of a barrel is 7 ounces, nearly twice as much as the level. A quart of flour just rounded over is a pound. Bread-crumbs.—A cup of bread is 4 ounces pressed in rather solid. A pound of bread is a pressed-in quart. Corn-meal.—A cup of corn-meal is 5 ouuees, 3 rounded cups are a pound, or a pound of corn-meal is a little less than a level quart. Oatmeal.—A level cup of oatmeal w 6 ounces. All that can be dipped up with a cup weighs 7 ounces—nearly \ pound. Corn Starch.—A level cup of starch flour or cooking starch is 6 ounces, the same as corn-meal. All that can be heaped in a cup weighs 7 ounces. Farina.—The same as starch. Eice.—A level cup weighs 7 ounces. All that can be heaped in a cup weighs 9 ounces. Light Bread Dough.—A rounded cup is \ pound. A Basting-spoon means the pressed iron spoon about half as long as one's arm. The bowl of most of them of dif- ferent lengths of handle holds the same. Six basting-spoons of liquid are \ pint or a cup. It is the most useful measure for molasses. A full spoon of molasses is 2 ounces. A basting spoon of melted but- ter or lard not quite full is 1 ounce, 6 spoons brim-full will be $ pound of butter. A Table-spoon 14 times full is a cup or \ pint of water, 2 tablespoons of mel- ted butter is 1 ounce. It is near enough to count a tablespoonful \ ounce of any fluid except molasses of which a table- spoon may be made to take up an ounce. A heaping tablespoon of sugar is 1 ounce, 6 or 7 will fill a cup. A heaping table- spoon of starch is 1 ounce, 4 will fill a cup—starch can be heaped so much higher than sugar. A moderately heaped tablespoon of flour is 1 ounce, three fully heaped will fill a cup—1 ounces. Of eggs broken in a cup, 3 tablespoons are equal to 1 egg. A teaspoon is \ a table spoon. When baking powder, cream tartar, sugar, starch and the like is to be measured a rounded teaspoon is meant. It is near enough in most cases to count a tea- spoonful A ounce. In the absence of such a table as the foregoing ready prepared we have found such questions the most perplexing of any that have been given us to an- swer. It. looks now as if any of those who are opposed to Scales and weights, might so well acquaint themselves with the capacities of one cup as to become aicurate cooks, and safe from the dis- couraging effects of culinary failures. SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES SOME ARTICLES FOR THE SHOW CASE. 2—Angel Food or White Sponge Cake WHITEST AND FINEST CAKE MADE. 5 whites of eggs—or six if small. 5 ounces fine granulated sugar—£ cup large. 2£ ounces flour—£ CUP large. 1 rounded teaspoon cream tartar. 1 teaspoon vanilla or lemon extract. Mix the cream tartar in the flour by sifting them together. Whip the whites firm, put in the sugar and beat a few seconds, add the flavoring, then stir in the flour lightly without beating. As soon as mixed put the cake in the oven. It needs careful baking like a meringue, in a slack oven and should stay in from 20 to 30 minutes. A small,deep, smooth mold is the best and should not be greased. When the cake is done turn it upside down and leave it to get cold in the mold before trying to take it out. When you have pure cream tartar from a drug store use only half as much as of the common lest the cake taste of it. 3—Plain Glaze or Icing for the Above. 4 tablespoons powdered sugar. 1 white of an egg. Put the sugar in a cup aud mix it with the white ot egg. As soon as the sugar is fairly wetted it is ready. It dries pearl white; takes but a minute to make. Spread it all over the bottom and sides of "'angel food." Cost of material 15c, size 1 quart; weight 15 oz. The rule for the* foregoing in large quantities is an ounce of sugar to each ounce of white of eggs and half as much flour. Those who deal in it largely say it is, or at least was before they got it into a regular routine, the most trouble- some cake they made, the tendency be- ing always to fall in the middle. They now use plain deep molds having centre tubes of unusually large size. There is no difficulty with small cakes. But the whites must be whiipped quite dry in a cold place. 4—Lady-Fingers. 7 ounces granulated sugar—1 cup. 4 eggs. 3 tablespoons water. 6 ounces flour—1 heaping cup. 1 ounce sugar to dredge. Separate the eggs, the whites in a bowl, the yolks in the mixing pan. Put the sugar to the yolks and stir up, then add the water and beat with a bunch of wire 10 minutes. Have the flour ready. Whip the whites with the wire egg whisk till they are firm enough to bear up an egg. Mix the flour in the yolks and stir in the white of eggs last. Put the batter into a large paper cornet with the point clipped off, or into a lady-finger sack and tube, and press out finger lengths in regular order on a sheet of manilla paper. When the sheet is full dredge fine sugar over, catch up two corners of the sheet and shake off the surplus, and lay it on a baking-pan. Bake a light yellow-brown in about G minutes. Take off by wetting the paper under side and stick the two cakes to- gether while they are still moist. Cost of material 14c.; number of cakes 6 dozen pairs, weight 18 oz. 5—Star Kisses. 8 ounces fine granulated sugar—round- ed cup. 4 whites of eggs. 1 teaspoon flavoring. Whip the whites with a bunch of wire, in a cold place until they are firm enough to bear up an egg, add the sugar and flavor and beat a few seconds longer. Put the meringue paste thus made into a sack aud star-pointed tube or else into a stiff paper comet having the point cut COOKING FOR PROFIT. like saw teeth and press out portions size of walnuts on to pans slightly greased and then wiped clean. Bake in a very slack oven about 10 minutes or till the kisses are of a light fawn color and swelled partially hollow. They slip off easily whea cold. Cost of material 10c; number of cakes 5 doz., or according to size. 6—Fairy Gingerbread, or Ginger Wafers. This appears to have originated in Boston where it is held in high favor and it is a sort of social duty to know how to make it. No eggs needed. 1 cup butter—7 oz. 2 cups light brown sugai—13 oz. 1 cup milk—£ pint. 4 cups flour—1 pound. 1 teaspoon ground ginger. Warm the butter and sugar slightly and rub them together to a cream. Add the milk, ginger and flour. It makes a paste like very thick cream. Spread a thin coating of butter on the baking pans, let it get quite cold and set, then spread the paste on it no thicker than a visiting card, barely covering the pan from sight. Bake in a slack oven, and when done cut the sheets immediately into the shape and size of common cards. This is also known as euchre gingerbread. Is served in packs and eaten between games. Do it up in paper packages to prevent breakage, with one sheet outside. Cost of material 23c; weight 2J pounds; cakes innumerable. 7—Jelly Roll. 1 cup sugar—7 ounces. 4 eggs. 1 cup water small. 2 cups flour—9 ounces. 1 large teaspoon baking powder. -£ cup fruit jelly or thin marmalade. Separate the eggs, the whites in a good-sized bowl, the yolks in the mixing pan. Put the sugar to the yolks, etir up, then add the water and beat up till they are light and thick. Mix the pow- der in the flour, whip the whites to a very firm froth. When they are ready stir the flour into the yolk mixture and mix in the whipped whites last. Cut sheets of blank paper the size of your baking pans, spread the batter on them, without previous greasing, as thin as can be, and bake in a quick oven about 6 minutes. Brush over the un- der side of the paper with water, the cake laid flat on the table, and take it off. Spread the cake with thin jelly and roll up. It makes it rounder and smoother to roll it in a fresh sheet of paper and keep it so until wanted, care being taken that the cake is sufficiently baked not to stick. It shoul I be observed that this and number 4 can both be used for the same purposes, this is the cheaper. Cost of material 19 or 20c.; weight over \ pounds; light and large. 8—Cocoanut Gems, Cakes or Caramels. These very quickly and easily made cream candy drops we learned to consid- er worth having in our showcase through observing how rapidly they sold at two rival fruit and confectionary stands in a western city. They were freshly stacked up in sight close to the sidewalk every morning, about a bushel in each place as it seemed, and were all or nearly all sold by night. They may be found in most confectionaries under different names. 1 pound granulated sugar—2 cups. 8 ounces grated cocoanut 2 cups. J cup of water. Set the sugar and water over the fire in a small, bright kettle and boil about five minutes, or till the syrup bubbles up and ropes from the spoon, and do not stir it. Then put in the cocoanut, :=tir to mix, and begin at once and drop the candy by tablespoonfuls on a buttered baking pan. The dry dessicated cocoa- nut is the easier kind to work with. With the moist, fresh graten more time 6 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S should be given for the sugar to boil to the candy point. Leave a little in the kettle ind color it pink with a few drops of cochineal, adding water if necessary. Drop a spot of the pink on each white cake. Cost of material 20 or 22c. Number according to size. They sell at 2£c each. 9—Pound Fruit Cake. Yellow but spotted with fruit. The staple every day sort of plum cake. The fruit does uot sink to the bottom in this mixture. 14 ounces sugar—2 cups. 14 ounces butter—2 cups. 11 eggs. 18 ounces flour—4 rounded cups. Mix the above the same as pound cake, then add to it, 1 pound raisins. 1 pound currants. 8 ounces citron. 1 teaspoonful baking powder. Use seedless raisins. Nothing is good made full of raisin seeds. Mix the fruit together and dust it with flour before stirring it into the batter. The cakes require from 1 to 1£ hours to bake. 2 teaspoonfuls of mixed ground spices, cinnamon, mace, and alspice, can be added to the above if so desired. It changes the appearance of the cake, however, and renders it perhaps less saleable. 13ut either way it is an excel- lent cake. Cost of material—sugar 10, butter 20, eggs 18, flour and powder 4, raisins 20, currants 10, citron 15—97c; weight over six pounds, size a five pint cake mold full. Preserving Corn with Salt Cut green corn off the cob and pack it in jars in layers with salt enough between each layer to form a brine that will cover the corn. Place a plate or board on top of the corn, cover the jar and keep in a cool place. When to be used soak the required quantity in fresh water for 24 hours, changing the water once or twice, then boil and season with milk and butter, or make into corn pudding, or fritters. The above method used to be uni- versally followed before canning, be- came so common. The corn is not so well-flavored, yet serves a purpose in some places. Kossuth Cakes. Make sponge drops large and thick, hollow out the bottoms, fill the hoi low with whipped cream sweetened and flavored, and place two together. Dip them in melted sweet chocolate or chocolate icing and place on an oiled dish to dry. They are a Baltimore specialty, are generally made to order, only for parties; the price about a dollar a dozen. Cheese Fondue, a la Savarin. It is one form of cheese omelet. Take equal weights of cheese and eggs and one fourth as much butter—that would be 3 eggs, 4 ounces cheese, butter size of a guinea egg. Grate the cheese, mix the butter with it in a pan over the fire, break in the eggs, season with pepper, scramble all to- gether same as scrambled eggs, but not too hard, as the cheese becomes tough and ropy if cooked too much. Cheese Ramequins. Roll out pie paste, cover it with grated cheese, fold up and roll out twice more. Cutout like thin biscuits, wash over with egg and bake. For luncheons and teas. COOKING FOR PROFIT. THE LUNCH COUNTER. 10—Alamode Beef Soup. There is a well established favorite soup sold in the large cities under this name; whether any relation to beef-a-la-mode or not makes no difference whatever. It is especially adapted for a lunch, or to be made a meal of, being simply made thick and of course nutritions with beef boiled to shreds in it. To make 12 quarts soup take, 5 gallons water. 5 pounds soup beef. Shanks and bones, all the water will cover. An onion, a carrot, a turnip. 12 cloves, 1 bayleaf. 1 tablespoon salt. 1 teaspoonful black pepper. Break up the shanks and bones, wash off in cold water, put them into the boil- er with the meat not touching the bot- tom, boil gently for 6 hours, then take out the piece of beef. Add to the stock the cloves and bayleaf and continue boiling until the water is reduced to three gallons, and the remaining meat is well dissolved, which may be three or four hours longer. Strain off the stock through a gravy strainer, skim free from fat, set it on the fire again in the soup pot; cut the vegetables or chop them and throw them in, and mince the piece of beef without any fat and add that like- wise. Boil £ hour, thicken slightly with flour-and-water, season with the salt and pepper and skim off the particles of fat that rise from the minced beef. It is thick with meat and minced vegeta- bles. It is not much detriment to such a soup to have the fat remaining in it, except the crumbs of fat meat that rise from the mince and spoil its smooth ap- pearance, but it is needed for other uses in the kitchen. To make soup every day as easily as possible there must be a regular time for setting on the first boiler—the stock boiler—and a routiue something like this: Iu the morning when preparing break- fast and dinner, get the soup pieces of meat together. After dinner as soon as possible set the boiler full of these pieces and the complement of water on the range and let it slowly simmer as long as there is a fire at night. Then the last thing at night, if warm weather, strain off the stock and set in a cool place till morning. But if cold weather and the stock cannot spoil in the boiler during the night it will be better to leave it and draw it off quite clear before the morning fire is started undei it. Good soup can be made by setting the prepared boiler on early in the morning and drawing off the stock at about 11 o'clock, but it is not the best way for obvious reasons. Cost of material—rough baef at 5, bones at 2, vegetables etc, 5, 12c per pound gall. 11—Cold Baked Ham. Scrape and carefully shave off the outside of a ham and saw off the rank end of the knuckle bone. It is an im- provement to soak the ham in water 12 hours before cooking. Boil it iu the salt meat boiler from 2\ to 3|- hours, according to size. Take out, remove the rind, trim a little and bake it brown and shining—about £ hour. 12—Roast Ham Bread-crumbed. Boil and trim the ham as heretofore directed. Mix 3 cupfuls of the sifted crumbs of dried and crushed bread with 1 cupful of grated cheese. Brown the ham in the oven only very slightly, take it out and press upon it all the bread crumb mixture that can be made to stick. Put back in the pan and brown it in the oven carefully all over SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES alike, basting the dry places with a little clear fat from the pan. The cheese mixed with the crumbs acts as a cement for the coating, gives a rich color and a good flavor. A ham done this way is good either for hot or cold. Cost—A 16 pound ham at 12|c $2,00. Lobs by shrinkage, rind, bone, waste fi pounds, 10 pounds nett salea- ble ham for $2,00 costs 20c per pound. 1 pound of ham makes from 4 to 8 plates, or 12 sandwiches. 13—Fried Oysters. 1 dozen oysters. 1 cup cracker-moal or crnmbs. £ cup milk batter. Lard to fry. Lemon to garnish. Spread the oysters on a clean napkin and wipe them dry. Mix in a small bowl 2 rounded table- spoons flour with 6 tablespoons milk, gradually free from lumps and like cream. Be particular to measure; and use milk because it takes on a finer color in frying than if water is used. Dip the oysters into the batter then into the cracker-meal or bread crumbs and let them lie well covered for a while. If so preferred double bread them by dipping the second time in the batter and then in the cracker-meal again. Fry in hot lard about 3 or 4 minutes or until brown. Drain in a strainer, serve heaped in a hot dish and quarters of lemon at each end. 14—Fried Oysters in Haste. Where there is not time to dry the oysters take 6 tablespoons cracker-meal. 2 large tablespoons flour. Some oyster liquor in a small pan. Mix the cracker-meal and flour thor- oughly together dry. Dip the oysters out of their own liquor into the meal, out of the meal into the extra pan of oyster liquor and out of that into the meal again. Do not rub the oysters as the bread- ing will not stick a second time, but press them in singly. Fry brown in 3 or 4 minutes, garnish with parsley and lemon. Cost of material—with bulk oysters ut 60c per quart of 4 doz. oysters 15, breading 1, lemon 1, 17c. Lard to fry, 2 oz for each dozen oysters either con- sumed or damaged 2c—total 19c. 15—Oyster Fritters. Mix one-fourth flour with three-fourths cracker meal dry, and have some oyster liquor or milk or both mixed in a pan. Put in a good pinch of salt. Dip the oysters out of their own liquor into the mixed meal, out of that into the oyster liquor then into the meal again, and do so twice more, giving the oysters 4 coats. Fry in hot lard crisp and brown in 5 mkiutes. Serve in circular order in a dish and garnish. These keep the perfect shape of the oyster and the oys- ter flavor in the crust much better than if made by dipping into thick fritter batter. Cost—the same as fried oysters. 16—Oysters Sauteed in Butter. Mix one-fourth flour with three-fourths cracker meal (or sifted crumbs of dried bread) dry. Dip the oysters out of their own liquor into the meal, press down without rubbing and give them a good coating. Put 1 ounce of butter into a frying- pan and melt it. Lay one dozen oysters in close enough to stick together by the edges. Fry carefully as butter easily burns, until the under side is nicely browned, then lay a plate upside down upon them, turn over and slide them back into the pan again and brown the other side. Serve them still caked to- gether on a hot plate. Cost of material—oysters 15, bread- ing and lemon 1, butter 2, 18c per doz. 17—Oyster Pies—Individual.. These are covered pies of the usual COOKING FOR PROFIT. 9 well-known form containing from 12 to 18 email oysters. They are served in a deep plate with a soup ladleful of oyster- stew liquor poured around. The pies are about the size of a large saucer. To make 10 such pies take for the crust, 20 ounces flour—5 cups. 8 ounces lard or suet—1 rounded-cup^ 1 cup water. 1 teaspoon salr. Rub the lard into the flour dry, pour the water into the middle and stir up to soft dough. Spread the flour that re- mains unwetted on the table, pal the dough smooth in it, roll it out 2 or 3 times and fold it up and it is ready for use. Cut pieces, roll out very thin and cover 10 pie pans. Then put into each 18 small oysters and the liquor belonging. Dredge in a little salt and pepper and a little dust of flour rubbed through a seive with the fingers. Put a top crust on and cut off the surplus by pressing the hands against the edge of the pie pan all around. Bake about 10 minutes, serve hot as above stated. Cost of material—flour 3, lard 7, cost of crust 10c. With bulk small oysters at 50c per quart of 15 dozen—oysters 50c. 3 pints milk and oyster liquor sea- soned 12c—total 10 pies 72c—say, 7£c each. 18—Oyster Pot-Pie. Sells well in the restaurant.— 2 quarts small oysters. 1 ounce butter. 1 cup milk. Salt and pepper. Crust made of 1 pound flour—i cups. 3 teaspoons baking powder. 1 cup water. Drain the oysters pretty well from their liquor and put them into a 3-quart bright milk pan. Mix the crust like making biscuit, but without shortening, and have it as soft as possible to be han- dled. Pat it out flat with the hands and cover the oysters. Bake 15 min- utes and then introduce at one side a seasoning of salt and pepper—ateaspoon- ful of each—a small piece of butter, a cup of milk and a bastingspoon of flour- and-water thickening. Stir about, re- place the piece of dough that was raised up and bake a short time longer. The crust should be as light as a sponge and lightly browned, but the oysters not cooked hard. Cost of material—with bulk small oysters at $180 gall.—oysters 90,butt er 2, milk 2, flour 3, powder 2. seasonings 1, $1,00. Contains about 16 doz oys- ters, or according to grade, and crust to correspond. 19 Chow-Chow Domestic. 12 large green tomatoes. 12 cucumbers. 12 onions. 1 head cabbage. There should be about twice as much cabbage when all are chopped as of any one of the others. Chop them small, mix, sprinkle with salt and let stand over night. Then drain off and cover with weak vinegar and let stand 2 days. Drain a£ain and add to it 3 quarts cider vinegar. 1 cup grated horseradish. 4 ounces white mustard seed. \ ounce celery seed. 1^ ounces ground cinnamon. 2 tablespoons turmeric. 4 tablespoons dry mustard. \ pound sugar. 4 green peppers minced. When well mixed set it on the range in a bright kettle and boil up. When cold it is ready for use. The above makes something over 2 gallons. It is a fine relish for the lunch table. Keep in glass jars. Cost—too variable for estimate. To people with gardens very little. Prob- able average 50c per gall. 10 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 20— Plain Pie Paste. 1 level cup lard—7 ounces. 4 level cups flour—1 pound. 1 teaspoon salt. Water to mix—\ cup. Drop the lard into the flour and rub them together until well mixed. Pour a small cup of cold water in the middle and stir around gradually. Take the paste out while quite soft, pat out smooth on the table with plenty of flour under; roll it out, fold up in three roll, out and fold up twice more, and it is ready for use. The rolling and folding makes the paste flaky and better than it otherwise would be, although this is not intended to be real puff paste. 21—Suet Pie Paste. 2 pressed in cups minced suet. 4 cups flour. 1 teaspoon salt. Warm water to mix. Make the suet as fine as possible by first shaving in thin slices and then minc- ing very small with a little flour mixed in while mincing, to prevent sticking to the knife. Rub the suet into the dry flour, add salt, mix up gradually from the middle with water slightly warm. Take the dough out of the pan and roll out to a sheet on the table, fold over in three and roll out twice more. Pie puste made as above, then allowed to become very cold and rolled twice again is al- most as good as puff paste in flakiness. The time may be shortened by having the suet, pretty well chopped, in a warm room to soften, then pounding it smooth, throwing it into the flour and mixing up and rolling out without stopping to rub it in the lour first, which is a tedious operation. Cost of material—average for both suet and lard 12c; makes 3 or 4 covered pies large enough to quarter, if rolled thin. 22—The Covered Lemon Pie of the Great Bakeries. NO EGOS NEEDED. 8 ounces sugar—1 large cup. 3 ounces flour—1 small cup. 1 lemon. 1 pint water—2 cups. Grate rind of lemon into a small sauce- pan, using a tin grater and scraping off with a fork what adheres. Squeeze in the juice, scrape out the pulp, chop it, put in the water and boil. Mix the su- gar and flour together dry and stir them into the boiling liquor. When half thick- ened take it off and let finish in the pies. The above makes two large pies or three small. It is necessary to be par- ticular to get the right amount of flour. The mixture is pale yellow from the rind and sugar. Put top crust as well as bottom on these pies. Cost of material 10c—pies each 8 or 9 cents. Cut in 4. There are some immeuse bakeries in the city of Chicago and oue of them is peculiar in that it turns out nothing but pies. It has grown up to its pres- ent dimensions from being a mere corner pie shop, and even yet one of the firm, the working partner, bakes all the pies himself, indeed he says that so close is the margin of profit in the business that when once he was laid up by a spell of sickness the loss during his absence amounted to about three hundred dol- lars per week. Hotel keepers and oth- ers who have to hire inefficient help and who see things burnt up and wasted will understand how that might be; and then there is the important matter of buying cheaply and well. The people of the present time are ac- tuated by all sorts of queer desires and ambitions. Some want to go around the world in eighty days, some want to walk a thousand miles in so many hours, and the grand goal in view that COOKING FOR PROFIT. 11 the owners of this great pie factory have set themselves the -task of reaching or die in the attempt is the production of a million pies in a year. Two years ago the number turned out in the course of twelve months had reached to eight hundred and thirty thousand, and it did seem as though the remaining trifle of one hundred and seventy thousand pies might be compassed in the succeeding year, making it a round million in twelve months, however it was not to be. Whether somebody had a comer on pumpkins that year, or whether apples were high through increased shipments to Europe where pies cannot go, or whether pies had begun to go out of fashion, or strong rivalry with this firm had sprung up so it was that the sales actually fell twenty-five thousand pies short of the greatest pie year. Still the prospect is good for the firm to achieve the object of their ambition. The pop- ulation of the city is still increasing and no new or alarming accusations against pie have been started of late. This es- tablishment possesses six carrying vans, five of which are of the capacity of om- nibnsses and are as finely painted. They cost five hundred dollars each, have horses to match and each van takes out five hundred pies at every trip. The customers are lunch counter keepers and restaurants, hotels and boarding houses, bakeries, groceries and private houses, all over the city. They run five huge rotary ovens of which the doors are nev- er closed, but the pies put in at the front pass around the interior on the revolving floor and come to the door again done and ready to taken out. Of course their pies are good or they could never hope tb sell a million a year, and the sorts they make are quite numerous in variety. Still they are cheap. 23—Lemon Cream Pie. Cover the pie pans with a single crust but with a thicker edge than common, and bake it slack done. Take out and fill with lemon cream, cover with me- ringue and bake again but only until the meringue or frosting has a light col- or on top. Thejemon cream filling. 2 cups milk—1 pint. \ cup sugar—4 ounces. | cup flour—2 ounces. 1 tablepoon butter—1 ounce. Pew drops oil lemon, or extract or grated rind. Put a spoonful of sugar in the milk and set on to boil. The sugar prevents the milk from burning on the bottom. Mix the flour and rest of sugar very thoroughly together dry, drop them into boiling milk and stir rapidly with the wire egg beater. Throw in the butter. Letcookat the back of the range 10 min- utes. Flavor before spreading iu the pie crusts. For the frosting take whites of eggs, 3 tablespoons sugar, whip the whites quite firm, beat in the sugar a few mo- ments, spread over the pies and dry bake in a si sack oven. At the great bakeries mentioned the frosting is placed around in a pat- tern with a star kiss tube, as named at No. 5. Save the yolks of eggs to make cus- tard pies. Cost of material—crust for 2 pies 6c; filling and frosting 13c, 19c—cut each in 4. 24—Pumpkin or Squash Pie. 6 cups cooked pumpkin or squash,— or 3 pints or pounds, or a can. 1 cup light brown sugar—7 ounces. 1 cup flour—4 ounces. 1 cup milk \ pint. 1 teaspoon ground ginger—\ ounce. \ teaspoon salt. Have the pumpkin drained dry after cooking, and mashed smooth. Mix in the sugar, ginger and pinch of salt. Mix the flour with the milk in a bowl gradually, perfectly free from lumps, and stir that well into the pumpkin. Cover 3 large pie pans with thin 12 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S crust s of short paste made of a small cup of lard rubbed into 4 cups of flour and mixed up with water and a little salt and rolled. Fill them to the brim with the pumpkin, bake £ hour in a slack oven. Eat cold. Cost of material—4£ lbs raw pump- kin or squash at 2c, one-third waste— pumpkin 9, sugar 5, flour 1, milk 2, ginger 1; 18c for filling. Crust average 3c each, total each pie 9c. Large din- ner plate size, full. Cut in 4. A3 lb. can pumpkin or squash costs 20c by the dozen. 25—Apple Pie. 7 or 8 average apples—2 pounds. Short paste for 2 covered pies. Buy sweet, ripe apples that need no sugar, have a care,however that they are of a good cooking sort. Pare and slice them thinly off the cores. Spread thin bottom crusts on 2 large pie pans, put iu the sliced apples raw, cover with a top crust, bake \ hour in a slack oven. A grating of nutmeg can be added if desired to improve the flavor, and with some kinds of' apples it is an advantage to put in a spoonful or two of water and dredge a little flour on top of the fruit before covering. When puting on the top crust the quickest and best way instead of cutting around is to press both hands against the edge of the pie pan, turning it around on the table and so cutting off the paste. It closes the edges together and takes off all the surplus. Cost of material—apples 6, double crusts for 2 pies 8; 14c. Large dinner plate size, full. Cut each in 4. Sound apples lose one-third their weight by paring and coring, unsound apples,of course.are an indefinite proposi- tion. A bushel of apples is 48 lbs; it contains from 150 to 200 apples, accord- ing to size, average, say 175. A bushel of apples makes 48 pies, dinner plate size. 26—Mince Pie—No 1. Cover large pie pans with a bottom crust of plain pie paste and put into each a heaped \ pint of the following mince- meat. Cover with a top crust and bake \ hour. Keep warm until served. Cost of material—crust each 4.mince- meat 6, 10c. Large size cut in 4. 27—Mincemeat—No. 1 8 cups minced beef—2 pounds.' 12 cups minced suet—3 pounds. 12 cups currants—4 pounds. 12 cups chopped apples—3 pounds. 2 heaped cups raisins—1 pound. 2 heaped cups brown sugar—1 pound. 2 heaped tablespoons mixed ground spices—cinnamon, alspice and cloves. 4 cups orange and lemon rinds boiled tender and chopped—\ pounds. 2 cups common branly—1 pint. 14 cups cider—3 \ quarts. Season the chopped meat and suet with salt and black pepper, then mix all and keep in a jar or keg a week or two or longer, before using. Cost of material—Meat loses one-third in boiling, buy 3 lbs beef, heart or tongue at average 8c., beef 24, suet 24, cur- rants 40, apples 9, raisins 20, sugar 10, spice 10, orange peel 8, brandy 50, ci- der 45; $2,40c. Amount 3 galls., 80c gall. Heaping \ pint to each large pie makes 40 at cost of 6c each. 28—Mince Pie—No. 2. Cover pie pans with plain pie paste rolled very thin and put into each pie a full large cup of the following mince- meat. Cover with a thin top crust and bake in a slack oven about 20 minutes. Cost of material—crust for each pie 3£, filling 3$; 7ceach. Large size, full. Cut in 4. COOKING FOR PROFIT. 13 29—Mincemeat—No 2. 1 ox heart boiled tender and minced. 6 cups minced suet—1£ pounds. 4 cups black molasses—1 quart. 4 heaped cups brown sugar—2 pounds. 2 heaped cups raisins—1 pound. 3 heaped cups currants—1 pound. 3 heaped tablespoons ground spices— alspice, cinnamon and cloves mixed. 1 heaped tablespoon black pepper. 2 cups vinegar—1 pint. 4 cups orange and lemon peel boiled tender and minced. 6 heaped cups raw dried apples—1£ pounds. 6 pressed-in cups bread crumbs—1£ pounds. 16 cups water—4 quarts. Boil the dried apples in 2 quarts of the water and before they become too soft take them out and chop them and put them with the liquor in a large jar. Pour 2 quarts water over the bread and add that, then all the othar ingredients as named. Season the meat and suet with salt. It is ready for present use. Cost of material—$1,40. Amount 3 galls.; 47c gall. Makes 40 pies, large size. Cheese Pudding. Line a small shallow dish with good pastry, beat up two eggs, add half a pound of grated cheese, one quarter ounze of butter, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; mix well, and pour into the lined dish. Cheese Straws. Take equal portions of flour, grated cheese, and butter — one quarter or half a pound of each, according to the number of "straws" required. Add a slight seasoning of salt and pepper; make the whole into a paste, roll out, cut into strips or straws, and bake in a quick oven. Cheese Pounded. Out up one pound of cheese that has become too dry for the table, into small pieces; add three ounzes of butter and a teaspoonful of made mustard. Put in a mortar and pound it until smooth; press it into glass or earthen pots such as are used for potted meats. Use it by spreading on thin bread and butter or toast. Cheese Souffle. Mix a quarter of a pint of milk with about a dessert-spoonful of flour and a pinch of salt. Put in a sauce- pan, and stir over the fire until it thickens. Add one quarter pound of cheese, fine grated, and the yolks of two eggs. Beat all together, and then, having beaten the whites of the eggs into a stiff froth, add them to the rest, and bake in a quick oven. Cheese Scallops. Soak three ounzes of breadcrumbs in some milk, add two beaten eggs, one ounze of butter, one quarter pound of grated cheese, and pepper and salt. Mix thoroughly, pour into scallop shells, and cover with bread- crumbs. Bake until brown. 14 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES RESTAURANT BREAKFAST. 30—Coffee. More coffee is consumed in this coun- try than in any other under the sun; its value is understood, its power as a stim- ulant to bodily and mental activity is appreciated and no other article of gen- eral consumption can be named of which the public are so careful to guard against adulteration as this. Packages of ready- ground articles are generally shunned; the merchants must keep the sacks of coffee, ready browned but of different grades in sight and a mill for it to be ground in before the buyer's eyes, and these straightforward methods are the outgrowth of more than mere personal solicitudes or defences against the small frauds of imitation or substitution which in the case of innumerable other articles are submitted to with careless indiffer- ence, they result from the feeling that the active business of the community cannot be carried on in the fast way to which the New World cities have be- come habituated without the stimulating aid of good coffee, that is to say of gen- uine coffee. For the potency of the ber- ry to refresh and impel to new exertion is not to any considerable degree depen- dent upon tbe method of preparing it for the table. Coffee causes wakefulness when eaten raw, or drawn by long steep- ing in cold water, its effects are rather deadened than increased when it is made into the pleasant breakfast bever- age with cream and sugar. Its energy is most expansive in the out door camp where, boiled in a camp kettle it is drunk by the pint or quart without milk and the drowsy hunters or travelers spring up and start off singing. There are the best of reasons therefore why no great success should be expected for any eating house that depends npon boarders who are free to change, until it is made a special matter of care first, to provide genuine coffee ofgood qaulity, and second, to have it made strong, clear, fresh and furnished with cream, 'pleasant to the sight,. to the sense of cleanliness and purity and to the taste. Some drink coffee for the sake of the coffee, some, Rip Van Winkle's, for the cream and sugar, but the latter, if not already past work when they begin, come over at last to the ranks of the ac- tive multitude. The stimulation afforded by the cof- fee berry having become an absolute necessity it is a question only whether the coffee made is to be of such a sort that it must be gulped down like a medi- cine and a second draught avoided if possible, or whether sipped with the ut- most enjoyment of both its flavor and fragrance, and this is a matter that rests mostly with the maker who in turn is dependent for success upon the vessel that keeps it for him after it is made, for an improper urn will spoil the best coffee ever concocted in the course of an hour or two. The most important im- provement in coffee urns is that of fitting the inside with a stone jar which holds the coffee and keeps it free from metallic taint. It is practically impossible to make coffee to order as wanted, neither can coffee bought ofgood quality and made strong be thrown away when left over from a meal, but if kept in a metal pot or urn turns black and bitter, discolors milk and cream like a dye and has none of the tine aroma it had when first made. The substitution of a bright new tin vessel for the old and cankerous one will remedy the matter for a short time but rust spots form inside the new one with- in a week and the coflee gradually be- comes as bad as before. If the makers of stoneware or some harmless unglazed pottery would put upon the market coffee urns with faucets, and an inner rim to hold the hoop of a muslin filtering bag a remedy would be furnished for much bad coffee within the reach of those who can- not buy the costly plated urns with the stone-ware linings. When a good way of keeping the coffee so that it will not change to ink between one meal and the next has been adopted it will become worth while to lay a stress upon the se- COOKING FOR PROFIT. 15 lection of the best kinds. Good Kio cof- fee is the most servicable, the cheapest, and in nine cases out of ten is good enough if well made, but those who can distinguish between the flavors will pre- fer Java, and a mixture of Java and Eio is generally satisfactory. The fancy kinds such as Mocha, African, or what- ever new names may be given are gene- rally peculiar only in being the produce of young trees which after awhile bear the same old sort of coffee as other plan- tations. It is said that there is no more of what used to be known as Mocha cof- fee; nothing remains but a name. 31—To Make Coffee—Family. 1 heaping cup ground coffee—4 ounces. 8 cups watei—2 quarts. The most people who do cooking for profit cannot afford to make coffee with- out boiling, the full strength is not ex- tracted until the boiling point is reached and to make it otherwise more coffee is required or less water. However, it need not keep on boiling after the first heat. Have the coffee ground coarse like oatmeal, put it on in cold water and let come to a boil, then immediately remove it to the stove hearth or some place to keep hot without boiling and a few miu- utes before it is to be poured off add \ cup of cold water. Coffee made this way half an hour before the meal will pour off quite clear without anything added to clearify it. 32—French Coffee. Put a large cup of coarsely ground cof- fee shaken in and heaped up (4 ounces) into the perforated top of a coffee pot and poor over it 6 cups of boiling water. Keep the pot at boiling heat without ac- tual boiling. When the water has run thro ugh,pour it off into another vessel and pour it through again and then once or twice more. Whatever sediment may have passed through in spite of the re- peated filtering through the coarse coffee will remain at the bottom if never dis- turbed by boiling, and the coffee will pour off clear and strong. But very bad coffee is often made by careless people by this method. 33—To Make Coffee—Restaurant. If there is no properly constructed cof- fee urn,provide a tin one having a faucet near the bottom, and a muslin bag run- ning down to a point hanging inside from a hoop that rests on the rim of the urn and is covered by the lid. Put in the coarse ground coffee—\ pound to 4 quarts of water. Keep a coffee pot specially to boil the water in, you will know how much it holds, and use it for nothing else. Pour the boiling water upon the coffee in the bag, draw it off at the faucet and pour it through again and again. Keep the urn where it will be at boiling heat almost, yet not boil. This is often very hard to manage where there is no steam-heated stand, but some way must be found if the coffee is to be good. Where there is a regular-built coffee urn kept hot either by steam or gas that can be regulated at will, the way is to put into the urn the proper amount of water and the coffee tied securely in a muslin or canvas sack and there let it draw. The addition of eggs to the raw coffee if not postitively necessary to make the coffee clear seems to give it a mild taste like the addition of milk. It is most useful when the coffee is ground too fine. If eggs are to be used put the coffee in a pan, mix 1 or 2 eggs with a cup or two of cold water, wet the coffee with it, then put on in the big coffee pot and boil before pouring it into the filtering bag in the urn. 34—Cream For Coffee. Use the very small individual cream- pitchers that hold only 2 tablespoonfuls and serve one with each cup of coffee. 16 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S With this careful apportionment it is often found practicable to procure cream enough for the purpose where otherwise the serv- ing of real cream could not be attempted. Cost of coffee with cream and sugar— with coffee at 20c., and £ ounce or a ta- blespoon to each cup, and 2 teaspoons or 1 ounce sugar and 2 tablespoons cream to each cup, and cream 90c, gall.—cof- fee 5, cream £ pt, 6., sugar 5; 16c., for 8 cups or 2c. a cup for material. 35—Tea. 1 teaspoonful makes 1 large cup. 4 teaspoonfuls make a quart of tea. 1 heaping cupful is 14 teaspoonfuls, and makes 1 gallon of tea,if mixed tea is used and allowed some time to draw. 2 heaping cupfuls of tea is a quarter of a pound, and makes 2 gallons, or the same number of cups as a pound of cof- fee, or about 30 as cups are filled. There are many who claim to make 2-A- gallons of coffee from a pound, and the same will increase the quantity of tea to the pound but it must be at a disad- vantage to the good quality of the arti- cles. It is probable that where a business, is successful in spite of a poor quality of tea and coffee provided, it would be still more successful with that point upheld. On the other hand a great deal of dis- satisfaction is caused in hotels through an unsystematic way of making the tea; because there is really scarcely anything to be done that little is slighted; a quan- tity of tea much too large is thrown intd water that does not boil, in the hope to ob- tain tea the quicker, which is bad at first; but afterwards the tea becomes so strong that nobody can drink it. There should be a measnre of some sort always in the tea box, that there may be no excuse for dipping it up by uncounted handfuls. When the tea becomes so that it looks like coffee in the cups, yet has neither strength nor fragrance and of course is unfit to drink, it may be partly due to the use of black tea, but it is the certain result of allowing the tea to stand and boil too long, no matter what kind of tea may be provided. The best way to make tea for a lar- ger quantity than can be supplied from the family tea-pot is to put the measured amount required into a box made*like a quart measure, of perforated tin, having a lid to fasten on, and drop it into an urn of foiling water, containing the right proportion, and then stop the boiling and allow £ hour for the tea to draw. The box must be large enough to allow the tea to swell and the water to circulate through it. Before all the tea is drawn off add more boiling water— a fourth as much as was used at the first—for the second drawing. On an average each person takes 2 teaspoon- fuls of sugar to each cup of tea—that is 1 ounce. In some good restaurants the plan adopted is to give with each cup three lumps of sugar in a butter-chip or very small saucer; and a correspondingly small individual pitcher with 2 table- spoonfuls of cream. Cost of material—i ounces tea 20, sugar 20, cream 30; 70c—35 cups tea for 70c, 2c a cup. 36—Chocolate. Common unsweetened chocolate is to be used as the sweet chocolate being £ sugar is not strong. 1 ounce common chocolate makes 4 cups. 1 heaping cupful of grated common chocolate, is 3 ounces and makes 3 quart*; it contains 7 tablespoonfuls. 1 heaping tablespoonful of grated com- mon makes 2 cups as cups are filled. Chocolate must be cold to grate; it melts and runs when made hot. The ounces are marked on the cakes. To make chocolate take: 3 cups milk. 1 cup water. 2 heaping tablespoons grated chocolate. Boil the milk and water in a saucepan, drop in the chocolate and beat with the wire egg-whisk until the chocolate is all COOKING FOR PROFIT. 17 dissolved and it boils. It should be made to order whenever practicable, the milk and water being kept ready boiling, but if made beforehand should be kept in a sink of the steam chest or double kettle and not allowed to boil again. Cost of material by gallon—4 ounces chocolate 10, 3 quarts milk 21, sugar 10; 41c for 18 cups 2Jc a cup—single cups cost 2£c. 37—A Restaurant Pot of Coffee, Tea or Choclate. A pot is a pint silver or crockery-ware coffee pot that a person may order instead of 2 cups; the restaurants that charge 10c per cup furnish a pot of 2 cups for 15c or a pot for 2 of 4 cups for 25c of either coffee or tea, but 5c higher per pot for chocolate. French coffee, meaning coffee of dou- ble the common strength, dripped and not boiled is 25c per pot of 2 cups. French coffee with cognac per pot of 2 cups, 3-fourths coffee and 1-fourth brandy 50c. Some Necessary Explanations. As we are starting out to furnish a ready-reckoning book that may in the course of time show the average or proba- ble cost of everything from a pie to a grand banquet and as the selling prices of many dishes in the restaurants and elsewhere will often have to be quoted, for suffi- cient reasons, we wish to caution all readers against forming hasty conclu- sions as to the profits made in any case. There is not the least intention on our part of setting the buying and selling prices side by side for comparison, for in fact the cost of material is very often a very email part of the expenses of serving meals. What those expenses are made up of beside the cost of material it is outside of our present business to in- quire and these remarks are made for fear of any false ideas being formed by some readers who have never been in business but think they ought to be, and by others who may not know the differ- ence between gross receipts and net profits. As regards the accuracy of our esti- mates it is necessary to mention that great differences in the prices of raw pro- visions will be found to exist in different parts of the country, coffee is cheaper in San Francisco than in the east, salmon is not half the price of halibut, being only about 12c per pound when in Chi- cago it costs 40c and halibut only 20; eggs and butter take a wide range in prices, and so forth. Still as our prices are always stated upon which the esti- mates of cost are based each individual can change them and arrive at the result in his own localitv. To cooks in par- ticular who seldom trouble themselves about the cost of materials and who proverbially are sure to fail when they go into business alone through deficiency of that kind of knowledge, we hope to be of great use by showing the necessity of being exact in weights and measures if they would not double the cost of arti- cles made and render profit impossible. 38—Tenderloin Steak For One. Price in first-class restaurants 55c, including bread, butter, potatoes and condiments. Cut a slice from the filet rather over than under \ pound, and in thickuess according to the size of the filet, notch through the outside skin with the point of the knife, flatten the steak with a blow of the cleaver to rather less than an inch thick, lay it on a plate and brush over both sides with a slight touch of butter, broil over clear coals about 5 minutes, or as ordered, and season with a dredg- ing of salt and pepper while it is cook- ing. Serve in a hot dish; pour over it 2 tablespoonfuls of melted fresh butter, garnish with a few sprigs of parsley aud place \ a lemon at the edges. Serve potatoes as ordered; if chips or French-fried they may be in the dish as a border, other kinds in a separate dish. 18 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S Cost of material—steak 18, butter to sauce 2, potatoes 1, lemon 1, condiments 2, bread 2, butter 3; 29c. 39—Double Tenderloin. The difference or deduction commonly made when steak for two, of the other descriptions is ordered is not observed with tenderloins, but when a person re- quires a double one it is simply cut accord ingly and so charged for. A steak to weigh a pound will take a fourth of the entire filet. Having cut it off the requi- site length shave off two or three narrow strips of the skin that partly encircles it, to allow it to spread, and setting it on end on the block flatten it with the cleaver. Broil and serve as usual. The filet consists of a lot of strings of meat loosely held together and to be at the best the steaks must be cut straight up and down, as a slanting cut makes course meat. At the thin end it is better as regards good eating to cut the slices not quite through, open and flatten them to make the usual size. This however does not answer for an unusually large or double sized steak, but the fineness of texture has to be sacrificed for the di mensions. 40—Tenderloin or Filet Steaks—Their Cost. The filet of beef is the long strip of solid lean meat that runs along the whole length of the loin under the back bone and between it and the kidney fat., When the loin is cut and sawn straight down to make porterhouse and sirloin steaks each one of such steaks contains a piece of the filet from 2 to 4 ounces in weight, according to where it is cut and the thickness. It is the smaller lean portion that has the suet upon it. To make the tenderloin steaks of the res- taurants the filet is taken out all in one piece. This cannot be obtained of all butchers but some, having a certain class of trade will sell tenderloins at from 25 to 30c per pound. Those who buy beef by the loin or hind quarter, and having sale for all the different grades of meat, also take out the filet entire should still count it at about 30c, per pound as the following calculation shows. An even weight is taken to make the estimate easy to change when the price of beef is different. 300 pounds of loin at 12c costs $36. 1-third of it is bone; 1-third is coarse meat and fat; 1-third is fine clear steak, including the tenderloin and the rest nearly equal to it. The bone is worth 2c per pound for soup—$2, The coarse meat and fat is worth 8c per pound—$8. Take these amounts from $36. the first price of the beef, and the fine steaks will be found to cost 26c per pound. As the tenderloin is ac- counted a little better than the rest and is in greater request it may be properly reckoned at 30c per pound cost price raw. 41—Filet a la Chateaubriand. Price $1,25, or indefinite according to style of house. It is a large tenderloin steak broiled between two thin steaks over a slow char- coal fire until done through, with all the gravy of the three carefully preserved. The outside steaks removed when done only their gravy squeezed over the oth- er. Common thin steaks answer for the outside. Have them wide enough and fasten the edges together with small skewers before placing on the gridiron. Pour saucc of hot butter with salt and pepper in it around the steak, add paris- ienne potatoes and cut lemon. Truffle sauce instead of the butter, if desired. 42—Potatoes Free With All Meat Orders—Their Cost. Two average potatoes, or £ pound raw make a dish. Potatoes at $1,00 per 100 are 60c per bushel and 4 middling potatoes cost lc. The cheapest way, as a matte* of COOKING FOR PROFIT. 19 course, is to serve them with their jack- ets on or, as the French say and some- limes print in their menus, en chemise. The next cheapest is the saute potatoes, boiled first, peeled when cold and sliced into a frying pan with a little iat and browned more or less. Those pared raw and frieJ by immersion in hot lard cost the must. In counting the cost of potatoes as an article of food it is necessary to estimate that they loose half their weight by paring raw, 100 pounds bought for $1 will be only 50 pounds after pairing— that is to say if pared by the help, and the potatoes of a rough sort with deep eyes. Smooth potato ts like the rose or snowball, pared by the person who pays for them may lose only a third of their weight. But potatoes boiled or steamed with the skins on will only lose 15 pounds out of 100 by peeling when done, or 2 or 3 ounces out of a pound instead of 6 or 8. Where potatoes are used by the wagon load these differences are of great consequence. Taking the orders at a restaurant as they come for plain boiled or baked or the forms in which potatoes are boiled before paring, and the fried and chips and perhaps broiled, and sweet potatoes it is a fair average count of £c per dish for potatoes and £cfor lard to fry, or 100 dishes potatoes free with meat orders for $1. 43—Porterhouse Steak For One. Price in first-class restaurants 65c, including bread, butter, potatoes and condiments. The porterhouse cut is the middle or best part of the loin beginning an inch or two from where the filet begins near the last rib and extending back till the round bone at the point of the hip is struck. The porterhouse steaks are slices sawn clear through, taking both bone, upper loin and tenderloin. They cannot well be cut weighing less than a pound and gene rally run from that to a pound and a half according to size of beef. A loin yields from 8 to 12 such steaks depending upon the thickness. The butchers sell such steaks at 25c per pound retail. Having cut the steak from the loin about an inch thick cut off part of the thin strip of the flank bo as to leave about 3 inches length attached, chop off half the depth of the back bone to give a neat appearance without taking all the bone away, and carefully sever the out- side edge to prevent drawing up while broiling. Brush over with the butter brush and broil from 6 to 10 minutes or as ordered. Serve with a border of chip or fried potatoes. Cost of material—1 J- lbs meat (by the loin) 25c, butter to sauce 2, potatoes 1, condiments 2, bread 2, butter, 3; 35 to 40c as the meat may cut. 44—Condiments With Meat Orders— Their Cost. The greatest expense is for the table sauces and ketchups—Worcestershire, Halford, London Club sauces and the like and tomato ketchup, and the next for olive oil, french mustard, and horse- radish, while the cost of the fillings of the cruet stands is merely nominal. One half the expense of the costlier articles may be saved by judicious management, by keeping the sauces shaken up, setting them out to each order and then moving them to a back shelf, not inviting pro- miscuous waste. In a' business of mod- erate dimensions the expense of table sauces alone will easily run up to $25, per month. Cucumber pickles are gene- rally included in the tree list of condi- ments but dearer kinds are charged extra. 45—Butter With Meat Orders—Its Cost. With fine butter ranging in price from 30c per pound at the lowest to 60c and even to 75c at times, there is no protection 20 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S against lot's on every meal served except in serving the butter in individual allow- ances in small butter chips. The neat way of doing this is to make the butter in individual prints, using for the pur- pose a butter stamp precisely like the pound size in common use by the far- mers only these hold but £ ounce. They are in general use in city restaurants. They are like toy butter stamps in size and are imported along with other wood carvings from Switzerland. To make the prints, dip the wooden stamp in hot water, press in the tablespoonful of butter that fills it, and push it out with the moveable inside. A person at table who has not enough butter will call for more but such requests are not very frequent, and the plan ef- fectually prevents the eating of slices of high-priced butter and slices of bread in equal proportions. Fine creamry but- ter at 48c per pound is 3c an ounce. We calculate at 2 or 3c per order. 46—Porterhouse Steak for Two. Price in first-class restaurants $1,20, including 2 dishes of potatoes, bread, butter and condiments. This is 2 steaks on one dish and one may be cut a little shorter than the other so that with the broad part of the steaks at each end the one dish on which they are served will have a neat and even ap- Eearance; the 3 inches of the flank end eing seldom eaten, but necessa.y to make a large dish of a single steak. 47—Sirloin Steak. Price in first-class restaurants 45c in- cluding potatoes, bread, butter and con- diments, Either "a steak with a bone in it" cut from the end of the rib roast down to the first good porteihouse steak, or from the loin thick end beyond the last por- terhouse. Cut to weigh nearly a pound. Broil and serve with a spoonful of butter poured over, and potatoes. Cost of material5—steak 15, butter to sauce 2, potatoes 1, condiments 2, bread 2, butter 3; 25c. 48—Mushrooms With Steak Orders. Price in first-class restaurants 20 to 25c additional each person. About half a can with each beefsteak. Drain the mushrooms from their liquor and fry (saute) them in a small frying pan with a little butter. Add pepper and salt. When they have acquired a slight color draw them to one side of the pan, put in a heaping teaspoonful of flour and rub it smooth in the hot butter, still keeping the pan over the fire, and when the flour has become slightly browned pour in the mushroom liquor gradually and a few spoonfuls of water. Shake in the mushrooms, let all boil up, squeeze in the juice of a quarter of a lemon and pour over the beefsteak in the dish. Cost of mushrooms. Canned mush- rooms are all imported. There are arti- ficial caves near Paris where the culti- vated mushroom beds are over seven miles long. Several different grades of the canned goods are on the market ranging in price from about $25 to $33 per case of 100 cans (tins they are called by the English). The low priced article is made up largely of mushroom stalks and large open mushrooms. These have to be cut in pieces to serve with steaks. They do well to mince for mushroom sauce. The finer goods are mostly small buttons and are white, beside being more solidly packed. A third of a can of the best goods will generally make a better dish than half a can of the low grade. Retail price from 30c to 40c per can. Cost of mushrooms with beefsteak as above should be 15c, or according to buying rate. 49—Oysters with Steak Orders. Price in first-class restaurants 20c to 25c, additional each person. The oysters, \ dozen if large or a lar- ger number of small are in a brown oys- COOKING FOR PROFIT. 21 ter sauce prepared the same as the mushrooms in proceeding article or in detail. A heaping tablespoon of flour will thicken a cupful of liquor; only 2-thirds of that amount is wanted, therefore, put a rounded spoonful of flour and the same of batter together in a small frying pan and stir them over the fire until they are light brown and not in the slightest de- gree burnt. Then pour in gradually nearly a cupful of oyster liquor and water, stir to mix and season with salt and pepper, then put in the £ dozen or more of oysters and when they are at boiling heat pour them over the steak. Cost of material—oysters 6, butter 3, flour and seasonings 1, 10c. 50—French Pease with Steak Orders. Price in first-class restaurants 20c to 25c additional each person. About \ can of pease with each beef- steak. Throw away the water and put the pease into a small saucepan with an ounce of butter and little salt, shake them over the fire until hot and pour over and around the steak. For pease a la Francaise the difference is that a little cream sauce must be made first with a spoonful of flour and the same of butter stirred together over the fire but not browned, and a half cup of milk added; then put in the pease and let it get hot. Cost of pease—French pease range in price from $25 to $33 per case of 100 cans (tins), the quality varying from large mature pease apparently artificially colored, to the "petits pois extra fins," which are very small and sweet. It takes a third of a can for a sirloin steak and £ can for a porterhouse. Pease re- tail at 30c to 40c per can. Cost with butter average 15c. There are home packed pease to be had as good as the French at much less cost. The French ar- ticles are made green by the addition of a little vichy salt to the water they are canned in. 51—Tomato Sauce With Meat Orders. 10c Price in first-class restaurants additional each person. Throw 4 tomatoes into boiling water; in three or four minutes take them out peel and cut off the green around the stem, mash them in a little saucepan over the fire and let simmer in their own juice. In another pan put an ounce of butter with a scrap of raw ham and a teaspoon of minced onion and when they have fried a minute add a small table- spoon of flour and stir until light brown. Add ^ cup of water or stock and then the stewed tomatoes. Salt and pepper slightly. Press the sauce through a gravy strainer. Pour it over the meat in the dish. Cost of material per order 5c—A cheaper quality for low-priced dishes can be made without butter; and also by simply stewing down strained tomatoes and their liquor until thick enough, and adding salt and pepper. The last is probably the best of all but must be pre- pared before wanted, needing slow stew- ing down at the back of the range. 52—Onions With Meat Orders. Price in first-class restaurants 10c to 15c additional each person. Slice thinly enough onions to fill such a dish as is used to serve fried potatoes in. Put them into a small frying pan with a spoonful of lard or drippings, shut down with a plate or good lid and let cook in that manner until tender—5 to 10 min- utes—then take off the plate and let the onions get light brown. Sprinkle with salt. Drain away the grease, if any left, and serve the onions on the meat in the dish. Cost of material—the price of the onions and the detriment caused by the odor that prevades the establishment. 53—Small Steak. The common term for a steak of no particular cut. Price in restaurants from 22 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 25c down to 15c, including baked, boiled or saute potatoes, bread, butter and sea- sonings. A pound of round steak as cut by the butchers divided in three makes 5-ounce steaks, all meat, ot a size sufficient for an ordinary meal. Beat them out a little with the side of the cleaver and fry instead of broiling them with the scraps of fat in the same pan. Cost of material—with round steak at 12c—meat 4, 1 potatoe £c cruet condi- ments %c bread 2, butter 2; 9c. With rough steak at 8c, lc per order less, or a large steak ot 2 orders to the pound. 54—Cheap Beefsteak. After purchasers have been found wil- ling to pay 25c to 30c per pound for se- lected portions there remains a large amount of every carcass that will rate either at the 121 cent rate of round of beef or as skirt or flank and buttock worth about 8c or of a cheaper grade yet, the neck and brisket. This may be bought at 5c, but it is half bone. If 150 pounds costs $7,50 at 5c, when the bone is taken out it will be 75 pounds of clear meat costing 10c per pound. If the bone be worth 2c per pound for soup—as doubt- less it is, the 75 pounds is worth $1,50, making the clear meat cost only 8c per pound. This meat is equally nutritious with the selected portions but is not fit for broiling, as it takes a longer time to make it tender. To make it good, slice it and lay it in a deep baking pan and fry it with drip- pings or some of the brisket fat pieces in the usual manner, with a strong season- ing of pepper and salt and a small allow- ance of onion and when it is brown on both sides fill up the pan with water and let it bake in that manner in the oveu for an hour or two. The water will be re- duced to brown gravy by that time. Add a teaspoonful of flour thickening. Cost of material—£ pound of meat with gravy and seasonings 3£, 1 large boiled potatoe \, bread 2, the meal 6c. Chicken and Rioe a la Valenciana. Take a fresh killed fowl. Cut in small pieces, braise for twenty minutes in a saucepan. Chop very fine two onions, with two dants garlic and a fagot of parsley; add to the chicken and braise for five minutes over a slow fire. Then add one pint of tomato sance and a quart of soup stock and two heads of cloves. When the stock comes to boil, add a pound of rice and season to taste. Let it cook over a ■low fire till done. Ladies' Lunches. For ladies' lunches a truce has been sounded to the expensive decorations of dinner cards, painted ribbons and bags for bonbons. The menu has been simplified. Chops with pease, a Spanish omelet (a delicious dish this), birds broiled, fried potatoes, mush- rooms on toast, artichokes, salads, champagne, coffee and fruit: this is now deemed a very stylish lunch for ladies, and is not overloaded. Roasted almonds, salted, make a very good relish after the sweets. Spanish Omelet Place in a sautd-pan one clove of a garlic, a quarter of a can of tomatoes, chopped mushrooms and chopped ham; season with salt, pepper and cook. Break three eggs into a bowl and beat thoroughly; add a half a cup of milk, salt and pepper and make an omelette in the usual way and place in the middle the thick part of the foregoing preparation; roll your omelette on a side dish and pour the remainder around the omelette and serve. COOKING FOR PROFIT. 23 RESTAURANT DINNER DISHES. 55—Rich Beef Soup. Price in first-class restaurants 15c large bowl, with bread. To make a gallon of soup put into a boiler a pailful of soup meat and soup bones broken up—about 10 or 12 pounds by weight—and the same measure of water—which will be 2£ gallons or 20 pounds—and slowly boil until it is re- duced to about half, or 5 quarts. Then strain it off through a fine gravy strainer or seive into the soup-pot and skim off the fat, probably a pint or pound. If convenient and the vegetables are at hand a small bunch of various kinds should be boiled along with the soup bones, it is of more consequence, however, to get the stock to boiling early, that it may have 6 or 8 hours time, as the seasoning can be done afterwards. Then take the 4 quarts of soup stock. 2 cups cold cooked beef cut in dice. 2 cups raw vegetables same way— turnip, ruta-baga, carrot, onion, celery, a little of each to make the amount. 1 clove of garlic. £ a bayleaf. 3 cloves. 4 heaping tablespoons browned flour. 2 tablespoons salt. 1 tablespoon pepper. Shave all the dark outside from the piece of cooked beef and cut it into clean squares, boil them and the cut vegetables in the soup £ hour, cut the garlic small and add with the other seasonings. Mix the browned flour with some of the soup and thicken with it. The bayleaf can be taken out again with the skimmings. Browned flour is flour baked dry in a pan in the oven. Cost of material—soup bones 25, cooked beef 5—(seasonings paid for by frying fat from stock)—30c gall. Add brea l or crackers and castor condiments 8 bowls 12c; 5 or 6c a bowl. 56—Boiled Fresh Codfish, Egg Sauce. Price in first-class restaurants per dish of 1 pound 35c, including bread, butter, potatoes and condiments. Clean a fresh codfish—the head is considered a delicacy in some countries, and it makes good chowder, but if not wanted for that boil it in the same ves- sel with the fish to enrich the liquor— have the water ready boiling in the flsh kettle, throw in a handful of salt, put in the fish and boil gently at the side of the range about J hour or until the flesh will leave the backbone when tried. Then lift out the drainer or false bottom with the fish uuon it and keep it hot. 57—Egg Sauce. 4 cups clear broth or water. £ cup butter. 3 hard-boiled eggs. 3 rounded tablespoons flour. 1 tablespoon salt. Boil 3 cups of the water with £ the butter in it and the salt. Mix the flour with the rest of the water and add it for thickening. When boiled up add rest of butter and beat till all melted chop the eggs coarse and stir them in. Cost of egg sauce—butter 8, eggs 5, flour and salt 1, 14c for 8 orders. Cost of boiled codfish—10 lbs gross $1,00; loss and shrinkage 4 lbs—8 12-oz dishes with 4 oz sauce 15c dish. Add bread, butter and potatoes to cost. Note—The size of the dishes here mentioned is enough for 3 or 4 hotel din- ner dishes. 58—Salmon Steak Maitre d' Hotel. Price 50 cents. Have ready some potatoes with the skins on cooked in a steamer and hot as they keep a better shape for restaurant dishes managed this way than if pared and stewed. Pepper and salt a 12-ounce salmon steak, rub the bars of the hinged wire broiler with 24 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES butter and broil the steak either over or before a clear fire about G or 8 minutes, loosen it from the wires by pushing with a brush dipped in butter and place on a hot dish of large size. Peel and cut 2 or 3 potatoes in quar- ters and shake them up in a little hot butter with salt; place them around the steak. Chop a lump of butter size of an egg in a frying pan, throw in a large teaspoon of chopped parsley, pour it hot over the salmon. Gut a lemon, sqeeze half over the salmon and garnish with the other quarters, and sprigs of parsley. Cost of material—salmon steak aver- age 25, lemon and parsley 2, butter 4, potatoes, 1, 32c. Note—Salmon steak varies in price from 10c to $1,50 per pound raw in mar- ket according to place and season, and restaurant prices accordingly. 59—New England Boiled Dinner. Price in first-class restaurants 30c, including bread, butter, and condiments. Boil 3 or 4 pounds corned beef for 3 hours or longer. Also 1£ pounds salt pork about 1 hour. Cook, either by boiling or steaming, 1 head of cabbage, 8 small onions, 8 pieces each of «arrots, turnips, parsnips, and beets, and 8 potatoes. To serve, put a portion of every kind of vegetable in orderly shape in an 8-inch flat platter and a 4-oz slice of corned beef and 2-oz slice of salt pork on top. Note. Cheap restaurants serve the above dinner for 15c,perhaps for less. The quantities can be cut down somewhat, the beef served with some bone in it, the vegetables often bought for less than half the quoted average or the dearer sorts left out. Cost of material—4 lbs corned beef at 7c will lose one-half by bone and shrink- age—8 4-oz dishes 28c. Salt pork 8 dishes 20c, vegetables, nearly a pound weight in each dish, equal to 1$ lbs gross raw at average 2c, Id for all kinds, 8 dishes, 12 lbs, 24c—total 72c for 8 dishes, 9c per dish. Add bread, butter and condiments to cost. Save the fry- ing fat from the meat boiler. 60—Irish Stew With Vegetables. Price 20c. It should be observed that this dish which is very popular if properly cooked is utterly worthless when the meat is not stewed tender. 2 breasts of mutton—4£ lbs. 8 potatoes cut, or 16 small—4 lbs. 8 small onions. 2 turnips. A bunch of parsley and thyme. Salt and pepper and thickening. Saw the mutton briskets in two places lengthwise across the bones and divide them in neat lengths. Put them on in 3 or 4 quarts of water and let stew 3 hours. Parboil all the vegetables in another saucepan, then drain away the water and put them in with the mutton and let cook about an hour longer. It may be necessary to keep out the potatoes if they are of a kind that break when done and steam them separately. Thicken the stew with 2 tablespoons flour, salt and pep- per to taste and add the parsley chopped. Dish the meat equivalent to £ lb raw weight, and a potato, onion and piece of turnip around, and plenty of the sauce. Cost of material—meat 22, potatoes 4, onions and turnips 4, seasonings and flour 2, 32c for 8 dishes or about 4c a dish. Add bread, butter and condi- ments to cost. 61—Roast Turkey. Price 35c; with cranberry or oyster sauce 40c. As a rule a turkey that weighs 10 lbs. raw, drawn, should make 10 restaurant dishes of the price—2sidebones, 2 drum- sticks, 2 second joints, 2 tail pieces, 2 COOKING FOB PROFIT. 25 neck pieces, all split through and divided as necessary, with a slice of the breast upon each and dressing in the dish This proportion can only be kept up with plump turkeys of medium size large and very fat ones having a considerable weight about the crop and neck that cannot be utilized, and the bone cuts be- ing too large and coarse. Young and light turkeys, sometimes no larger than common hens although not fat are good for restaurant use, sometimes admitting of being served in 4 or 5 portions only; light, but a dishful. Pick over and singe the turkey, take off the wing pinions if a number are to be cooked together as they make a good stewed dish and are but little cared for when roasted. Wash,and stuff the turkey with bread dressing, truss the legs in the body. Put it in a baking pan wi'.h a handful of saU,the fat from the gizzard and some toppings of the stock boiler and a cup of water. Roast it in the oven about 2 hours. At the beginning of the cook- ing keep a greased sheet of paper over it to prevent blistering the skin and re move it later to baste and brown the tur- key. When done take it up, pour off the grease and make gravy in the bak- ing pan. 62—Stuffing For Turkey. 8 solid cupa fine minced bread crumbs. 1 heaping teaspoon salt. 1 heaping teaspoon black pepper. 1 heaping teaspoon ground sage. 2 cups warm water. 1 heaping cup finely minced suet. Mix all together but not mash it to naste, and stuff the turkey with it. Cost of stuffing—2 lbs stale bread 10, 5 oz 'suet 4 seasonings 1; 15c. Cost of roast turkey stuffed—10 lbs turkey $1:80, stuffing 15, gravey 5; $2:00 for 10 dishes, 20c dish. 63—Minced Turkey with a Poached Egg- Price 35 cents including bread, butter, potatoes and condiments. One 8 lb turkey. 2 cups fine bread crumbs—6 oz. 3 pints broth. 3 heaping tablespoons browned flour. 1 small onion. 1 large teaspoonful black pepper. 2 of salt, 12 eggs. Either boil or roast the turkey, boiling is the better way when the turkey is old but roasting gives the better flavor. Pick all the meat from the bones and cut it in very small dice, mix in the bread minced extremely fine. An 8 lb turkey only yields 3 lbs clear meat—6 pressed cupfuls. Put the turkey bone, skin and pieces of tat and piece of onion on to boil in 3 quarts of broth and boil it down to 3 pints. Strain off, add the pepper and salt, thicken with the browned flour and when it has boiled put in the turkey meat and stir until quite hot through. Dish a cupful—£ lb—in a platter, flatten the top and place one poached egg up- on it. Cost of material—turkey at 18c 8 lbs $1,44, bread and seasonings 5, eggs 20, $1,69 for 12 dishes about 14c dish. Add bread, butter and potatoes to cost. Note—A smaller amount can be made with one fowl or a part of a turkey left over, by observing the same proportions. When no poultry fat a little butter should be used in its place. A chicken makes 3 or 4 large dishes. 64—Rabbit Pot Pie. Price in first-class restaurants 30- cents dish of about 1 pound. 4 pounds rabbit—1 jack or 4 common. 10 ounces salt pork. 1 small onion and some parsley. 1 tablespoon black pepper. 2 tablespoons of salt. 2G SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 3 tablespoons of flour. 2 pounds flour for crust. Cut up the rabbits; chop of the thin part of the ribs and throw them away, divide down the back and make 4 pieces of it and divide the legs into 2 if large. Steep in cold water to whiten the meat and cleanse thoroughly. Boil 3 hours in 4 quart? water, or until reduced to 2i quarts. Cut the pork into strips and fry them partially, the onion cut up in the fat,and as soon as they begin to brown add them to the stew. Season and thicken, pour the stew into a baking pan and cov- er with soft pot pie crust (No 18) made of 2 pounds flour, 6 teaspoons powder, 3 cups water and salt. Bake 20 or 30 minutes basting the crust with the stew liquor at last. Dish rabbit equivalent to A pound in dish with gravy and light spongy crust on top. Cost of material—rabbits 40, pork 10, seasonings 2, flour 7, powder 3 oz 6c; 65c for 8 dishes or about 8c dish. with tomatoes or too salt—the common mistakes. 65—Macaroni and Tomatoes, Italienne. Price in first-class i-estaurants 15c—a vegetable side dish of less than £ pound. \ pound macaroni—\ a package. J cup grated cheese. 1 cup thick stewed tomatoes. 1 cup brown meat' gravy. Pepper. This is the favorite way with the Ital- ians. The dish need not be baked. They simply boil the macaroni and then make it rich, not to eay greasy, with the other articles and gravy from the meat dishes. Break the macaroni into three-inch lengths, throw it into boiling water and let cook twenty minutes. Drain it, put it into a baking pan, mix in the grated cheese, the tomatoes, the gravy, salt and pepper and, if necessary, a lump of but- ter. Mix up and let simmer together about half an hour, either in a slack oven or on the stove hearth. It will be all eaten if not made too strong flavored Cost of material—macaroni 10, toma- toes a pint stewed down 8, cheese 2, gravy 2; 22c for 6 or 8 dishes. 66—Asparagus on Toast. Price 15c. An extra vegetable side dish where potatoes are given free. Trim off the ends of the stalks of as- paragus, let it lie in cold water awhile. Have the water ready boiling, put in a little salt and a pinch of baking soda size of a bean, to keep the asparagus of good color, drop in the asparagus tied in bunches and boil gently until the green end is tender, from 15 minutes to 45 minutes according to age and thickness. Drain without breaking off the heads. Serve 8 to 12 in a dish with a slice of buttered toast under the white ends and a spoonful of melted butter poured over the heads in the dish. Cost—According to the market and season, When canned aspiragus, a can makes 3 orders—asparagus 8, toast, and butter 2, 10c dish—restaurant size. 67—Plain Fritters With Sauce. Price served as a pudding dish 10c 4 cups flour—1 pound. 1 large teaspoon baking powder. 2 cups water slightly warm. 3 eggs. 3 tablespoons melted lard. 1 of molasses. Pinch of salt. Lard to fry. Sift the flour into a pan and throw in the powder, make a hollow in middle, put in all the rest—the water not quite cold enough to set the shortening—and stir up thoroughly into a soft fritter dough. It may need another basting spoon of water. Beat well. Fry large spoonfuls in hot lard or good fat from the meat pans. Serve 2 in a dish with J cup of sauce. Makes 24 fritters or ac- COOKING FOR PROFIT. cording to size and how light the dough is made by beating. Cost of material—flour 3, powder 1, eggs 5, shortening 1, molasses 1, lard consumed or damaged in frying 8; 19c for 24 fritters—sauce 15—34 cents for 12 dishes, 3c dish. 68—Sauce for Fritters. 4 cups water—a quart. Lemon peel, blade of mace, few cloves. 2 caps sugar. \ cup corn starch. Boil the water with the flavoring in it. Mix the starch in the sugar dry, drop it into the water quickly and beat with the egg whisk. Strain into another saucepan and simmer at the side of the range until it becomes clear like syrup. Cost of sauce—3 pints cost 15c. 69—Baked Apple Dumplings With Sauce. Price as pudding 10c. For large restaurant dish make the dumpling of a whole apple but of a size that run 4 to a pound. Make the plain paste as for pies at Nos. 20 and 21. Pare and core the apples, roll the paste out to a large, thin sheet on the table, slip an apple under the edge, gather the paste around and pinch it off underneath. Bake placed close together in a moder- ate oven until the apples are done when tried with a fork—generally 30 to 45 minutes. Serve with sauce. Cost of material—crust each 2, apples (at 4clb) each 1, 3c dish—with-sauce 1, 4c dish. 70—Apple Dumpling Sauce. 1 \ cups boiling water. 1 cup light browa sugar. \ cup butter. Nutmeg. 1 tablespoon flour, large. Mix flour and sugar together in a saucepan dry, pour the boiling water to them, add butter and grate in some nut- meg, stir over the fire until it boils. Cost of sauce—14 bastingspoons or orders 14c. Scrapple is made thus: Select a young pig's head, slit the ears and clean them and the mouth thoroughly and remove the eyes, cut out the tongue, scald and skin it. °ut the head into three gallons of cold water and boil slowly until the flesh is easily removed from the bones. Remove the scum and take out the head; reduce the meat to a mince, return it to the liquid and season moderately with salt and pepper; mix together a teaspoonful each of powdered sage, sweet mar- joram and thyme, and add to the meat. Mix together a quart each of Indian meal and buck-wheat flour, and add it slowly to the liquid, stirring as in the making of ordinary mush. Should the fire be too hot, remove the pot to the back of the range, where it will boil very moderately for half an hour. Stir until ready to pour it into greased pans, where it is to remain until solid. Should the water have evaporated too much all of the meal may not be required, and on the contrary, you may require more meal if it has not evaporated sufficiently. Cut in slices about one-quarter of an inch thick, dredge the slices with fine meal, and fry crisp in a liberal quan- tity of smoking fat. Some prefer it fried plain, with very little fat, and browned nicely on both sides. 28 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S RESTAURANT SUPPER DISHES. 71—Soft-Shell Crabs Fried. Two crabs to an order, common price 50c including bread, butter, potatoes and condiments. Every part is eatable except the sand pouch underneath, which pull oft' and wash the crab in cold water. Dry on a cloth, bread it by dipping in beaten egg with a little water in it and then in cracker meal and fry in hot lard until the claws are crisp and the crab is light brown. Garnish with fried parsley. Cost of material—crabs 12Jc each, lard 2, breading 3, accompaniments (i; 36c. 72—Soft-Shell Crabs Boiled. Pull off the small claws and the sand pouch and wash. Drop the crabs into boiling salted water and-cook about 10 minutes. Serve with butter sauce, pars- ley sauce, cream sauce or mayonaise, as ordered. Cost—2 crabs 25, sauce 2, bread gut- ter, etc. 6; 35c. 73—Pork Tenderloin Broiled or Fried. Price in first-class restaurants 35 eta. including the usual accessories. Pork tenderloins weigh from 6 ounces to a pound each. The large ones should be split part way and opened out and flattened; the small take two to an or- der not split. Season aud broil same as beefsteak well done, or saute in a frying pan. Serve with a spoonful of butter over and a border of fried potatoes. Cost of material—pork tenderloin 12, potatoes 1, bread and butter 5, condi- ments 2; 20c. 74—Pork Tenderlofn With Fried Ap- ples. The tenderloin cooked by broiling or frying. The apples instead of potatoes. Slice two apples across the core with- out pairing or coring; dip the slices in flour and lay them in a large f ryingpan in which is a little hot drippings or lard. Fry one side brown then turn them over with a broad knife. This is one of the things that is done right only in a few places,un- skillful hands get the apples "mussed up" and greasy. Some kinds of apples fry well enough without flour. Dish up on the edge of the hot dish around the tenderloin, chop or salt pork. Cost—apples at 4c pound 2 apples weigh \ pound, frying-fat lc, 2 or 3 cents a dish. 75—Honeycomb Tripe Broiled or Fried. Price 35 cents, including bread, but- ter, potatoes and condiments. Quite a specialty in some restaurants. Cut pieces of about 12 ounces, they are nearly twice as large as the open hand, dip both sides in flour, broil in the hinged wire broiler, brush liberally with butter and serve the honeycomb side upwards with the butter in a froth upon it. Serve potatoes either around it or in a separate dish, according to kind. Can be fried (sawteed) in a frying-pan in a little but- ter after flouring in the same way with- out breading, but will not brown very well without the butter. Cost of material—tripe 12, butter to sauce 2, extras 6; 20c. 76— Ham and Eggs—Restaurant. First-class price 45 cents, including bread, butter, potatoes and condiments. Medium-sized hams should be selected, the very small ones being too lean, salt and hard, and the very large not making handsome cuts. Shave off the outside, cut slices clear across, very thin, down to the bone, drive a skewer into the block down by the bone to steady it and saw through with a small sharp saw keptifor the purpose. This is a difficult and trying job with a soft ham unless good tools are kept to work with, and COOKING FOR PROFIT. 29 the ham is very liable to be torn and hacked in a very wasteful manner. The slices of ham weigh from 5 or 6 ounces to 12 ounces according as cut. Broil the ham about 6 minutes, lay it in a hot dish. Fry 3 eggs, half turned over and dish them side by side with the ham. Cost of material—(allowing for waste, butt and.shank) ham 12, eggs 6. pota- toes 1, bread and butter 5, condiments l;25c. 77—Omelet With Jelly. First-class price, omelet with 3 eggs 25 cents. Break 3 eggs into a bowl, put in with them 3 tablespoons milk. Beat to mix but not to make it too light. Put a bastingspoonful of the clearpart of melted batter, into the frying pan, pour in the omelet without waiting for the butter to get hot and discolored, let cook gradually, shaking it frequently to the further side of the pan until the thin edge, forced up- ward, falls over into the middle. When it is nicely browned and the upper side just set, put current jelly or other fruit jelly in a long line in the middle that is made hollow in the further side of the pan for the purpose. Roll so as to shut in the jelly, slide it smooth side up on to a hot dish, dredge powdered sugar on toD and mark it with slanting cross-bars by touching the sugar with a red-hot wire or spoon handle. Cost of material—eggs 8,butter to fry 3, jelly 6, sugar 1; 17c. 78—Omelet With Oysters. Frist-class price 50 cents, made with i dozen large oysters. 3 eggs. Milk, butter, seasonings. Cook the oysters rare done in a little saucepan separately, with a spoonful of milk, scrap of butter and thickening to make white sauce of the liquor. Break the eggs in a bowl, put in a spoonful of milk and beat with the wire egg whisk. Add a pinch of salt. Shake a tablespoonful of melted lard or clear butter about in the omelet frying pan and before it gets very hot pour in the omelet and let it cook rather slowly. Properly made omelets are not exactly rolled up, but there is a knack to be learned of shaping them in the pan by shaking while cooking into one side of it, the side farthest from you, while you keep the handle toward you raised high- er. Loosen the edges with a knife when it is nearly cooked enough to shake. When the omelet is nearly done to the center place the oysters with a. spoon in the hollow middle and pull over the fur- ther edge to cover them in. Slide on to the dish, smooth side up. Garnish with parsley and lemon. One reason of omelets and all fried eggs sticking to the frying pan is allow- ing the pan to get too hot. They seldom stick when poured into a pan that is only kept warm till wanted. The pans should be kept for no other purpose, and be rubbed smooth after using, if not bright. Cost of material—oysters 10, eggs 8, butter, sauce, seasonings 4, garnish 2, table extras 6; 30c. 79—Oyster Omelet. Make the omelet according to direc- tions preceding and pour over it when done and in the dish the oysters cut in pieces in a brown sauce as follows. Put a large \ cup of oysters into a frying-pan with their liquor, and salt and pepper and keep them in motion by shaking over the fire until they are soft- cooked. Take up with a skimmer and cut them in pieces. Stir a heaping teaspoon of sifted flour and twice the measure of butler together in a very small saucepan over the fire until light brown, add \ cup milk and the cooked oyster liquor, if any, aud when it has boiled up put in the cut oys- 30 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETVES ters. Add the juice of a quarter of lemon. The above brown oyster sauce should be prepared before the omelet, is cooked as omelets are not good unlesS eaten as soon as done. Cost, the same as omelet with oysterr- preceding. \ cup oysters is \ doz large. 80—Liver and Bacon Broiled.. First-class price 35 cents, including potatoes, bread, butter and condiments. \ pound slice of calf's liver. 3 ounces breakfast bacon. Cut the liver broad and thin, pepper and salt, dip both sides in flour, broil and while it is cooking brush it over with soft butter. Pry the 2 slices of bacon first, then finish on the gridiron. Serve the liver with the butter frothing upon it, the ba- con on top and potatoes around in the dish. Cost of material. The supply of call's liver is never equal to the demand and the butchers easily get 25c per pound. Beef liver ban to be the main reliance for this dish and can be had much cheaper. Liver average 10, bacon (al- lowing for waste in cutting) 6, butter 1, potatoes 1, bread, butter, etc. 5; 23c. 81—Welsh Rarebit or Canapes au Fromage. First-class price 40 cents. 4 to 6 ounces good cheese. Butter size of an egg—2 ounces. \ cup of ale. 2 yolks of eggs. Little cayenne and salt. 4 thin pieces of toast. Chop the cheese small, throw it and the butter into a little saucepan and as they get warm mash them together. When softened add the yolks and ale and pinch of cayenne and salt. Stir till it is creamy, but do not let it boil, for that would spoil it. Place the slices of toast on a dish, pour the creamed cheese upon them and set inside the oven about two minutes. The ale only heightens the flavor, and some prefer to use milk. The simplest form of Welsh rarebit is a slice of cheese placed on a slice of bread and baked in the oven. It de- pends upon the quality of the cheese a good deal whether it will prove satisfactory. And an addition to canapes au from- age is sometimes made in the form of a nicely-poached egg on the top of each canape, in the hot cheese. This dish then goes by the fanciful name of the "golden buck"—at least it has been so named in a few places where price was no object and specialties paid. Cost of material—cheese 8, butter 4, ale 4, eggs 5, toa.^t 1, table extras 4; 26c. With poached eggs on top, cost in- creased and price indefinite. 82—Minced Potatoes. This likewise has been a restaurant specialty and has been known as of great effect in drawing trade. It ought to be observed, however, that it takes a considerable allowance o*" butter in the pan to give the potatoes the fine yellow- brown, and appetizing flavor that will draw the people from a distance of many blocks to breakfast or supper. Chop cold boiled potatoes quite fine and season with salt. Spread a spoon- ful of drippings or butter in an omelet- pan or small frying-pan and place the minced potatoes about an inch deep. Cook on top of the range like a cake, without stirring. Invert a plate that just fits the pan over the potatoes. Let them brown nicely and slowly, then turn over on to the plate. Push in the edge a little all around and serve on the same plate with the brown on top. There are oval shaped pans that make these suita- ble for a platter, and even in the round frying-pan it can be managed to give the cake the platter shape. COOKING FOR PROFIT. 31 83—Corn Meal Mush and Milk. One of the floating paragraphs of the day is concerning a noted British journa- list who cannot bring himself to like corn meal and says unfavorable things about it such as paying it is nothing but oatmeal with a flavor of mice. He has evidently been trying yellow meal, and probably that not properly cooked. An early training "down south" convinced the writer of these lines that there is much more in corn meal than is generally sup- posed, and various people who have tried his methods have expressed a pleased surprise. It is no use, however, to try to gain favor tor yellow corn meal. Its strong flavor may be agreeable to such as have been accustomed to it since childhood, but their preferences will not be shared by many. Always use white corn meal, coarsely ground and free from flour, make the mush with all the water it will take up, have it as soft and jelly- like to fry as it can well be cut and handled when cold; be careful to salt it right and fry it handsomely and you will find corn meal in its different forms of mush and milk, fried mush, corn bread, muffins, batter-cakes, corn meal pud- dings, and others, an article so pleasant to the palate that it soon comes to be re- garded as one of the indispensibles. While it is true the negro cooks of the south have had almost the monopoly of the art of cooking corn meal it will not do to admit that what they accomplish through the simple habit of doing, cannot as well be done by the exercise of intelli- gent judgement. Take 2 heaping cups white corn meal. 8 cups water. 1 rounded tablespoon salt. Where the mush has to be made on a cook stove, a cast pot with feet, to raise the bottom an inch from the fire, is the best vessel to use. It lessens the ten- dency to burn and reduces the waste if the inside is brushed over with a touch of lard or drippings. Put the salt in the water, boil, and sprinkle the dry meal in with one hand while you beat with an egg-beater or spoon in the other. Put on the lid, and let simmer with the steam shut in for about three hours. If carefully cooked with a lid on and not burnt there will be as much mush as there was water put in, that is two quarts. Double the quantity needed for one meal should be made and" half put away to become cold to fry. For this purposo very slightly grease a pan, press the mush in evenly, and slightly brush over with melted lard again. No matter how little the grease, it prevents the forma- tion of a crust by drying on top. Each quart of cold mush will cut into about ten slices or blocks for frying. Cost of mush and milk—corn meal 4, milk 2 quarts 16—20 cents for 8 half pint* milk and 8 half pints mush or 2Ac each pint bowl. Note—mush and milk served as a first course for supper or breakfast in hotels is but a spoonful in each bowl; perhaps a third, or less, of the restau- rant bowl above specified. Hominy Muffins. Pound one pint of cold boiled hominy to a smooth paste, add to it half a pint of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, a heaping tablespoonful of baking powder. Beat the yolks and whites of two eggs separately, add to the yolks two ounces of butter, same of sugar, and a scant pint of luke- warm milk. Mix these ingredients together and stir into the flour, mix quickly, pour the batter into hot, weil- buttered muffin rings, and bake in a quick oven. 32 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES HOTEL BREAKFAST DISHES. 84—"Old-Fashioned" Broiled Beef- steak and Gravy. Take a whole sirloin or other steak as cut by the butcher, notch the edges to prevent curling up on the gridiron and beat it out on the block more or less ac- cording to its thickness or the greater or less tenderness of the meat, for the ex- perienced cook is ble to improve a poor steak considerably. Put a shovelful of charcoal in the ash pan of the range and some live coals from the fire on that, cover with a pan or oth- er means of making a draft over the coals. Rub the bars of the gridiron with a piece of bacon rind, lay the whole steak upon it and cook medium well done over the charcoal when it has burned clear. Have a piece of butter ready in a tin pan with a heaping tea- spoon of good black pepper and two of salt, put in the hot steak and press it into the butter, making the gravy run out, add half a cup of not water, set the pan and contents over the coals and when it begins to simmer the gravy and pepper will have thickened the water and made a good gravy. Dish up on a large hot platter, carve in pieces about the size of two or three fingers and serve a spoonful of the gravy with each cut. The next thing to broiling for that kind of beefsteak is frying over the fire, but a little piece in a pan does not come out natural-looking, but burns around the edges—it must be a full pan or nothing. Good broiling can be done in a hinged wire broiier set over the open hole of a stove, but forethought is required to let the fire burn down to a bed of glowing coals in time for it, and to turn the dam- per so that the draft will be strong enough to carry the smoke up the chim- ney. Some families and others are made miserable by having their so-called broiled meats always tasting of sinokc and coal smoke at that. This is some- thing that calls for the exercise of com- mon sense. Cost of family beefsteak and gravy— 2 pounds steak at 12c loses one-fourth bone, fat and cooking, 24 ounces costs 24 cents,—butter and seasoning- 8—3 ounces of meat to each order, 32 cents for 8 orders or 4c each person. 85—Individual Beefsteaks. This method practiced by a domestic cook has been known to give extreme satisfaction to a large houseful of people when a so-called first-class cook had ut- terly failed to fill the requirements of the place. Order the steak from the butcher cut thin, and divide it in pieces weighing 2 ounces—about the size of 4 fingers. Lay your steak on a board of hard wood and pound it down thin with the back edge of a heavy knife. Fry the steaks as wanted in frying pans slightly greased and let cook only 2 or 3 minutes and send in hot without gravy. All the merit of this plan is in the sort of blunt chopping with the knife-back, that spreads out the meat, gristle and all as thin as the edge of a dinner plate. 86—Minced Beefsteak. 4£ cups lean beef minced 1^ enps beef fat minced. \ cup cold water. 1 heaping teaspoon salt. Same of black pepper. Or, 3 pounds meat, one fourth of it tat, chopped and seasoned like sausage and a little water added. Take the thick part of beef flank or any that is tender but that looks too stringy and rough for steaks, cut both lean and fat clear of such skin and gris- tle as will not chop nicely. Mince it in a bowl and when finished and seasoned press it in a 2 quart pan and when to be cooked cut in slices like beefsteaks and fry on both sides, and serye with its own gravy poured over it. It should be made fresh every day. COOKING FOR PROFIT. 33 Cost—indefinite. It is an expedient for using up the best part of an unhandy piece of meat in a way that saves buying perhaps a first-class steak, while the pieces that cannot be minced are used to make soup or stew. 87—Plain Omelet. Two eggs and one teaspoonful of milk. Add a pinch of salt, beat in a bowl enough to thoroughly mix but not make it too light, as if the omelet rises like a souffle it will go down again, so much the worse. Pour into a «mull frying pan, or ome- let pan, in which is one tablespoonful of the clear part of melted butter, and fry like tried eggs But when partly set ruu a knife point around to loosen it and begin to shake the omelet over to the further side of the pan until the thin further edge forced upward falls back into the omelet. When the under side has a good color, and the middle is near- ly set, roll the brown side uppermost, with a knife to help, and slide the omelet on to a hot dish. Serve immediately while it is light and soft. 88—Omelet with Parsley. Mix a tablespoonful of minced parsley with the omelet mixture while beating it up. Make as directed in the preceding article. 89—Omelet with Onions and Parsley. Mince two table spoonfuls of onion and fry it in a little lard in a frying-pan with a plate inverted upon it. In five min- utes take up the minced onion without grease and add it to the omelet mixture made ready with parsley in it; stir up and fry as directed in plain omelet. 90—Omelet With Ham. Have ready on the table some grated or minced lean ham in a dish. Four a plain omelet of two eggs into the frying- pan and strew over the surface about a tablespoonful of the grated ham. 91—Omelet with Cheese. Make in the same manner as ham om- elet, with grated cheese instead of ham. 92—Omelet with Tomatoes. Stew tomatoes down nearly dry, sea- son with butter, pepper and salt. In- close a spoonful in the middle of an om- elet according to the proceeding exam- ples. Cost of omelets. Omelets are kept off the bill of fare more on account of the time and attention required to cook them properly than because of their cost whkh is only from £c to lc more than the eggs alone would be. This is speaking of hotel and family orders where the added seasonings is but about a tablespoonful, and not of omelets' with asparagus, points or other rarities. Eggs vary in price from 6 cents per dozen in country places to 60 cents in the cities at mid- winter. 93—Scrambled Eggs. Not to be beaten up like an omelet but only stirred about. Put a spoonful of melted butter or butter and lard into the small frying-pan, and then two eggs, sprinkle pepper and salt. Stir the eggs about a dozen times around with a fork. Pile in the middle of a little flat dish be- fore they get cooked too hard. Note. The oeufs (eggs) brouiUes aux truffles, or aux pennies d' asperges, often named in menus are scrambled eggs with truffles and asparagus and similar acces- sories, the word brouille being of the same derivation as our broil, signifying a row, being in a tumult, stirred up. 94—Shirred Eggs. Some people keep little yellow ware dishes for this purpose, or other d ishes that cannot be damaged by baking. Spread with a teaspoon a slight coating of soft butter over the inside of the dish, drop in two eggs, not beaten, and set them 34 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES inside the oven, or, perhaps, on the top of the range on one side. Try by shak- ing, and take them from the fire when the whites are quite cooked. Send ia the same dish set in a flat one. 95—Fried Eggs. These aro the most called-for of any form in which eggs are cooked and there is the widest possible difference between the work of a skilful and unskilful cook in this particular. The fried eggs that are a displace to any table are broken as to the yolks before they go in the pan, then they have black grease simmering up all around the edges and running over their surface, they are cooked near- ly as hard as leather, they stick to the pan and cannot be turned over and final- ly when they are forcibly pushed into a dish the same smoky, black grease flows around them like gravy. That it should happen so sometimes is nothing to be re- marked, but these lines are prompted by amazement that some will go on frying eggs that way always and habitually and do not se ;m to know that anything is wrong. To fry the eggs cleanly and hand- somely, keep the small frying pans al- ways rubbed clean, if not bright, and never set them empty upon the range but keep them warm on the bar along the front of it or on a hot shelf or a row of bricks at the back. 96—Poached Eggs. Also called dropped eggs. It is no trouble to poach eggs hand- somely if two or three rules are ob- served. Have a roomy vessel with plenty of water, the frying-pan shape is good, but it is not deep enough. Have a little sait in the water. Never let the water boil furiously after the eggs are in, as that breaks them; keep it gently simmering at the sides. The eggs break and are wasted be- cause wLen first dropped they go heavily | to the hot bottom and there stick, to pre- vent which set the water in motion by stirring it around with a spoon. The eggs dropped in are carried around a moment and the white cooks sufficiently to prevent adhesion. Break the eggs carefully into little dishes and drop into the water one at a time. Take them out with a perforated ladle. Serve either well drained in a small deep dish and a speck of butter-on top or else laid neatly on a trimmed slice of buttered toast. 97—Boiled Eggs. The best furnished hotel kitchens have a kettle much like a long fish ket- tle in appearance,and a number of tin bas- kets,each with its handle,that fi tin side by side. The kettle is full of boiling water, and the baskets with different orders of eggs, can be withdrawn without disturb- ing the others. One hand is detailed to attend to the egg boiling, and he has sand glasses to time them by, or a clock, or both. At ordinary levels two or three minutes for soft-boiled and four or five for hard-boiled is the rule, but at great altitudes in the Rocky Mountains as much as eight minutes is the least time for hard-boiled eggs. The low point at which water boils is the reason for the difference. 98—Fried Mush. Take the pan of cold mush that was set away over night, hold over the fire a minute and shake it on the table. Cut a quart of mush into 8 pieces. Roll them in cracker meal mixed with flour, then in milk, then in the cracker meal mixture again, let them lie in it to get a good coating. Drop into a frying pan half full of clear drippings made very hot first, and let fry light brown. Cost—Mush 3, breading 4, fat or lard 4; 11 cents, or from 1 to l£c each per- son. COOKING FOR PROFIT. C 35 99—Fried Mush Egged and Breaded. 1 quart cooked mush. 1 pouud cracker meal. 2 eggs. -J pound fat to fry. Mix 3 tablespoonfuls milk or water with the eggs and beat up. Roll the pieces of mush in it and then in the crack- er meal and fry a handsome brown in hot lard in a sauce pan deep enough to im- merse them. Cost of material—Neither the cracker meal nor the lard will be all used but an allowance should be made for waste or deterioration of what is left over. Mush 3, eggs 4, cracker-meal 8, lard 8; 23c for 8 to 12 orders—say 2%c each person. 100—Corned-Beef Hash. Some of the worst blunders the half- made cooks commit are in making hash. Corned-beef hash can be made a real delicacy, good to look at with no appear- ance of mystery about it, the pink meat fair and cleanly in the smooth and clean potato, and good to taste being more tempting to a fickle appetite than solid beefsteak. It is not necessarily a very cheap dish although it is convenient as a means of using a remainder of corned beef to make room for a fresh boiling. The attempt to make hash very cheap by making it the general receptacle for all sorts of pieces is a penny wise and pound-foolish proceeding,, for nobody wants it and it is thrown away at last aud through that and other blunders it has come to be at last that hash cannot even be given away at a free lunch. The writer of these lines has seen the officers of the finest vessels afloat send a special request to the kitchen for dishes of the deck hands' fresh made hot and savory corned-beef hash for their breakfast in preference to all that was upon the table, and the passengers who had made its acquaintance followed up the hint and found out the place where hash was good. There is no elaborate receipt to follow these remarks, the necessity in the case is not to put things in, but to keep things out. Keep out the cold turnips. Keep out the cold mashed potatoes even,if they are not uncommonly good and fresh. It has been shown a little way back in regard to the cost of potatoes, that two large ones are worth less than half a cent, and the water added when they are mashed cheapens them still more. Mashed tur- nip it still more worthless. Keep out the black and hard scraps and ends of meat, they will give a color and appear- ance and stale taste that will cause the mess to be thrown out, the good to be lost with the bad. Keep out the onions. This is the last thing that will be agreed to. Cooks of hotels have been known to quit the house rather than they would leave the onions out of the hash. But the people who live in the expensive class of hotels will leave the di6h alone if you do not, and if they despise it who else is going to bring hash in fashion again? It is in the interest of true economy to make hash popular, because it uses up corned beef, which is too plentiful. To make "dry hash" that will be eaten >and enjoyed, take: 1 preesed-in cup minced corned beef. 4 medium potatoes—1 pound. £ a level teaspoon good black pepper. 1 level teaspoon salt. 1 ounce fresh butter. A spoonful of hot water. Shave off all discolored outside of meat. Chop as fine as pepper-corns or wheat in a wooden bowl with a chopping knife, add the pepper, salt and butter to it. Pare the potatoes raw, steam or boil them, put them to the meat boiling hot and mash together. It is not of much consequence whether it is to be baked or not but it looks better browned over and can be served hottest that way. Leave out the butter when there is plenty of fat to the meat. Those who study to make this almost forgotten dish good take care to corn fat pieces of brisket and calves udder for the purpose. 3G SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S i Cost of material—£ pound selected cooked meat equal to 1^ pound raw9 , I ic it at mis 1, butter 2; 12c a quart or 8 family or hotel orders. 101—Pork Brown Stew. 1 pound coarse cut of fresh pork. 4 medium potatoes. 1 tablespoonful minced onion. 2 or three leaves green sage or a pinch of ground herbs. 1 level teaspoon minced red pepper. 2 of salt. 1 cup fresh roast meat fat for frying. 3 tablespoons flour. The fat to fry in is only used tempo- rarily and does not lose anything. Let it be especially saved from the roast meat Ean for the brown breakfast stews, and ave no unpleasant taste about it. Put it on in a small deep sauce pan to get hot. Cut the meat in pieces, throw two or three at a time into the fat when it is hot enough to hiss, let them get the same sort of brown outside that roast meat has, but quickly; take out with a skimmer. When all the pieces are browned in that way, pour the fat back in your jar, put the pieces of meat back in the same saucepan, add 3 cups of wa- ter, the potatoes pared and cut in halves, and the seasoning, and stew until the po- tatoes are done. Mix the flour in a cup with water and thicken the stew with it. Cost of material—Pork 10, potatoes 1, flour and seasonings 1; 12c for 8 fam- ily portions. 102—Wheat Muffins—Best. 2 rounded-up cups light bi-ead dough— little over a pound. 4 tablespoons meltei butter—2ouaces. Same of milk or cream. 1 teaspoou sugar. 3 yolks of eggs—or 1 yolk and 1 egg. Pinch of salt. £ cup of flour. Take the piece of dough from your light bread or rolls that was set to rise over night. Two hours before breakfast work the butter, sugar and milk in and set in a warm place a few minutes. Then beat in eggs and flonr and keep beating against the side of the pan until the bat- ter is very elastic and smooth. Let rise in a warm place about an hour. The muffin rings should be two inches across and one inch deep. Grease them, set in a greased pan, half fill with the batter, which should be thin enough to settle down smooth, but thick enough not to run under the rings; let rise half an hour, bake ten minutes in a hot oven. 103—Muffins from the Beginning. When there is no dough set for other purposes the muffins can be made from the beginning with: 3 level cups flour. 1 cup warm water and yeast mixed. 5 tablespoons melted butter. I teaspoon sugar. Same of salt. 3 yolks or 1 yolk and 1 egg. Mix up too soft to handle yet not thin enough to run; beat well and set in a warm corner to rise. Beat extremely well in the morning, use in muffiu rings and bake. Cost of material—Flour and yeast 3, eggs, sugar and salt 4; 7 cents for 12 muffins. 104—Buckwheat Cakes. 2 cups buckwheat flour. 2 cups water and yeast mixed. 1 level teaspoon salt. 1 tablespoon golden syrup. 2 tablespoons melted lard. Make a sponge or batter over night of the warm water,yeast and flour. In the morning add the enriching ingredients; beat up well,and bake thin cakes on a griddle. Most people like buckwheat cakes with a little cornmeal mixed in the bat- ter. Eggs are not needed except when accidentally the batter ferments too much, when an egg will bind and make the COOKING FOR PROFIT. 37 cakes easier 10 bake. Serve with but- ter and syrup. After the first mixing with yeast some of the batter may be saved and used iu- stead of yeast for several succeeding days. A pinch of carbonate of eoda may then be needed to be mixed in the batter in the morning, but cakes made that way, for some reason, are more pal- atable than with sweet yeast—care being taken to proportion the soda to the de- gree of slight sourness. Cost of material—Buckwheat 2, yeast 1, syrup 1, lard 1; 5 cents for 1 quart batter or 24 cakes or 8 plates. To eat with them, 8 ounces butter 20, A pint ttyrap 6; 28 cents total 33 cents 8 plates. Note.—As it is seen the cost of the buckwheat is next to nothing, but as the butter and syrup is nearly all, it is ob- vious that to whatever extent the lavish use o*" butter can be checked, a saving will be effected. The alleged indigesti- bility of buckwheat should be laid to the common extravagance in butter and syrnp. To such as are proof against dyspepsia, the poeple who lead active out-door lives,the tat from fried sausages is more relishing than butter with buck- wheat cakes. These and all other batter cakes are made more costly than they ought to be, as well as unhealthy in many places, by the wasteful way of ladling great spoon- fuls of melted lard on to the griddle to bake, or rather fry, the cakes in. A pound of lar J does not last long that way and it is unnecessary. Cakes can be baked on any sort of a griddle if it is on- ly rubbed ind polished with a cloth every baking, but if greased at all a piece of bacon or ham rind or of suet answers every purpose and the cost is scarcely appreciable. Sweet Tomato Pickle. Seven pounds ripe tomatoes, peeled and sliced; three and one half pounds sugar; one ounce cinnamon and mace mixed; one ounce cloves; one quart of vinegar. Mix all together and stew one hour. Pieklette. Four large crisp cabbages, cut fine; one quart onions, chopped fine; two of vinegar, or enough to cover the cabbage; two pounds brown sugar, two tablespoonfuls of ground mustard, two tablespoonfuls of black pepper, two tablespoonfuls turmeric, two tablespoonsfuls celery seed, one table- spoonful allspice, one tablespoonful of mace, one of alum, pulverized. Pack the cabbage and onions in alternate layers, with a little salt between them. Let them stand until next day. Then scald the vinegar, sugar, and spice together, and pour over the cabbage and onions. Do this three mornings in succession. On the fourth put all together over the fire and heat to a boil. Let them boil five minutes. When cold pack them in small jars. It is fit for use as soon as cool and keeps well. Turnovers. Boll out some puff-paste and cut in oblongshaped pieces. Put some finely cut cheese on the paste, turn over, and pinch down the edges and bake. 38 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S HOTEL DINNER. 105—Ox Tail Soup. 2£ quarts of soup stock. 1 ox tail. 1 small carrot. 1 turnip. 1 onion. Celery, bay leaf, cloves, salt and pep- per. Make the stock by boiling a beef shank in 6 quarts of water several hours, until it is reduced one-half. While the stock is boiling take a car- rot, turnip, onion and stalk of celery, and, with any kind of a round cutter or an apple-corer and knife, cut enough loz- enge shapes to fill a cup with the mixed sorts. Throw a few of the remaining scrape into the boiling stock for season- ing, and \ a bay leaf and 3 cloves. Saw or chop the ox tail into thin round slices and steep them an hour in cold water. The ox tail must stew at least 2 or 3 hours to be eatable and so far dissolved as to enrich the soup, and it may be done either in the stock boiler, and' the pieces picked out afterward to go in the soup plates, or may be stewed in some of the stock in a separate sauce- pan, whichever way may be most con- venient. At last strain the specified amount of stock clear into the soup pot. Boil the shapes of vegetables in water by them- selves \ hour, then drain off and put them into the soup, also the ox tail sli- ces. Add brown butter and flour thick- ening in small quantity, let the coup sim- mer slowly until it becomes smooth and clear again, and skim until all the fat is removed. Season with salt and cayenne. Serve a slice or two of the ox tail and some of the vegetables in each plate. When a soup like the foregoing has not a clear syrup-like sort of thickness or body, but is dull, like flour gravy, it may be cleared by longer simmering and adding more stock with come cold tomato juice, or lemon juice or even cold water, and skimming from the side If not already light brown add a spoonful of burnt sugar caramel. Cost of material—Beef shank for stock 10, oxtail 8, vegetables, seasonings, thickening 4; 22 cents for 10 half pint plates, or say, 2c plate or 4c pint bowl. 106—Fried Bass With Bacon. Scale and clean the fish, chop off the fins, and if small cook them with- out cutting; if large, split them length- wise and cut across making four. Pepper and salt the pieces, roll them in flour and let lie in it until the last; drop them into a pan of hot lard and let fry from five minutes upwards according to size. Fry a slice of breakfast bacon for each piece of fish in another pan and send in the bacon on the fish and a garnish of parsley and plain boiled potatoes. Note—There are several varieties of bass and for some reason hardly to be explained hotel stewards seem to be proudest of displaying striped bass in their best meuus. The black bass is, however, the favorite with restaurant customers and it seems fair to infer that it has sdme good qualities which make it so. It is certainly the favorite with an- glers. In weight it ranges from one pound to five. Only from 2 to 4 ounces need to be served as a dinner order of the cooked fish, and a spoonful of pota- toes in some form should go in on the same plate. For a restaurant order a fish weighing just one ponnd is the most satisfactory all around. Cost—.bass 24c for 2 pounds, 8 oun- ces bacon 8, potatoes 8 orders 2, lard to fry 2; 36c for 8 dishes or 4£ cents each; hotel size. 107—Boiled Beef with Horseradish. A fat, unctuous, gristly piece of the brisket or "plate" is the best for this, or COOKING FOR PROFIT. 39 the rib ends that are sawed off a rib roast. Boil it slowly for at least three hours; have a little salt in the water (which is afterwards to be used to make soup.) Grate or finely scrape down a stick of horseradish, put it in a bowl with vine- gar and water enough to cover, and use it for sauce. Cost of material—>Beef 2 pounds 12, loses one-third—.horseradish 2, mashed potatoes 2; 16c for 8 dishes, 2c per dish. 108—Roast Sucking Pig. The pig will be ready trussed when it comes from the butcher's, with the toes inserted in slits cut in the skin. Lay it on its back and drive the point of a sharp knife down through the bone of the back, dividing it convenient for carving, and also detach the ribs along one side, and loosen the inner joints of the hips and legs, which can be done without spoiling the outside appearance of the pig. Wash and wipe it dry, stuff with bread dressing containing sage and onions, and sew up with twine. Roast about two hours,cov- ered with a sheet of greased paper for part of the time,and baste with butter to get a fine transparent brown color on the skin at last. Make gravy in the pan to pour around the pig in the dish. Serve ap- ple sauce separately in a sauce dish. It is a time honored custom to insert a small apple in the mouth of the pig be- fore sending it to table. Note—Pigs weighing from 30 to 40 pounds are more frequently furnished to hotels than the very small ones, and, as they are not sent to table whole are con- sidered more satisfactory. They are too large to be cooked whole but are split in halves, carefully hacked through the bones inside according to the directions for sucking pig, and basted and crisped light brown in the same manner. Serve with apple sauce. 109—Apple Sauce for Meats. Pare good ripe apples and slice them into a bright saucepan. Add water enough to come up level with the apples and stew with a lid on till done—about thirty minutes. While they are stewing throw in a littlte butter. Mash at last with the back of a spoon. No sugar. Cost of material—10 pound pig $2,00, stuffing 10, apple sauce 7; $2,17—say for 20 to 25 orders not less than 10c per dish. Note—Pigs often cost a much larger amount than their weight at 20c per pound would be, five dollars being often obtained at Christmas and other holiday seasons. The number of dishes is some- what dependent upon skill in carving. In any case, however, this is an expen- sive dish. 110—Chicken Pie, Plain. When chicken pie or any similar dish is written in a menu as of some partic- ular style, it, of course, carries the im- plication that there are more ways than one. A very small variation or addi- tion of vegetables, mushrooms or eggs and wine may suffice to change the name. It is only neeessary to say here that one way by which young chickens, squirrels, rabbits etc., are partly fried in butter before being covered with a crust, and the gravy in the pan is made rich and light brown, may be found detailed elsewhere for pigeon pie, and the follow- ing is the other principal method, or country style. 1 large fowl or 2 chickens. 1 slice of fat salt pork—2 ounces. 1 large potato. 1 teaspoonful of minced onion. 1 of black pepper. 1 of salt. 1 pound of pie crust. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. A little parsely. The salt pork is only a seasoning, and may be dispensed with or substituted with butter or the fat of the fowls. COOKING FOR PROFIT. 41 Cost of material—Rhubarb 5, siigar 5, crust 5: 15c. for 2 pies, cut in 8 or 10. 115—The Stock Boiler. Where the beet management prevails and the work goes on like machinery, one wheel within another, there is a reg- ular time of day to set the stock boiler on, it may be in the evening to simmer till the last, and then the liquor strained off is set away till the next day, or it may be early in the morning. The boil- er should be larger than the ordinary stove pots. Put into it a gallon of clear cold water. The meats to be cooked during the day are trimmed of all the tough and gristley ends, such as are sure to be thrown away if fried, broiled or roasted, and all the bones are taken from the meat that can be without detriment to the joint, and these scraps, after washing in clear water, are put into the boiler. Then, if there is a soup bone beside, or a chicken to be boiled, or a leg of mut- ton it will be so much the richer stock. Some days there will be reason to choose which kind of soup to make, according to the contents of the stock boiler, which is a more economical way to look at it than if the boiler was to 'be furnished to suit the soup. A cream soup, for ex- ample, may be made when the stock is thin, and when it is rich as jelly make beef gravy soup or mock turtle. The available meat being in next, throw in a little vegetable seasoning, such as a small onion and piece of tur- nip and carrot. But these are not indis- pensible, for the sonp will be seasoned af- terwards. Let the boiler heat slowly and when at last it boils, skim carefully two or three times, put the lid on and let sim- mer 4 or 5 hours, when there will prob- ably be 2 quarts of rich stock ready when strained, to be used in soup or to make gravies and sauces. The strainer fine enough for ordinary use is made of perforated tin, or a pan with a perforated Vt\ bottom. Strike the edge of the pan rapidly to make the soup go through. 116 - Celery Cream Soup. 3 pints soup stock. 1 pint rich milk. Outside stalks of celery, about 4. 1 small onion, minced. Small piece of lean cooked ham. 1 tablespoon flour. Butter size of an egg. Salt and white pepper. Boil the soup stock with the onion and scrap of ham in it for flavor. Cut up the celery—about enough to fill a large cup— in dice shapes, and boil it ten minutes in water; then strain the water away. Mix the butter and flour together, and stir them into the boiling stock to thicken it slighty, then strain it into another sauce- pan and put in the parboiled celery and the pmt of milk. Season with pepper and salt to taste. Let it simmer ten min- utes or more after the celery is in. Mince a piece of green leaf of celery very fine, and sprinkle it from a knife point into the soup. This makes six or seven plates. Butter and flour for thickening h the orthodox article (roux), but should the butter fail to arrive punctually at the time the flour can be mixed with a little water instead. The stock used should have been skimmed free from fat, if not the soup must be. Cost—21c for 2 quarts, or 3c per plate. 117—Boiled Red Snapper—Shrimp Sauce. There should be a proper fish kettle for boiling a fish whole, having a perfor- ated false bottom or drainer, that can be lifted out with the fish upon it when done. Where there is no such article the best substitute is a common railk pan 42 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S of large size. Cover it with .'mother pan that the fish may get steamed if not quite covered. Choose a small fish, scale it, draw, chop off the fins,wash and wipe it dry on a cloth. Half fill the pan with water and put in a little salt, vinegar, a small onion and four cloves stuck in it and half a bay leaf. When it boils put in the fish and simmer it at the side of the range about halt an hour. Then pour off the water, take the skin off the upper side, slide the fish on to its dish, if to be served whole, and pour over it some shrimp sauce. But if served individually it may be di- vided with a fish slice in the pan and sauce poured over in the plates. Small and tender fish, like fresh mackerel, are best rolled up in a pudding cloth and boiled in plain salted water, then care- fully unrolled onto the dish. 118—Shrimp Sauce. 1 pint of clear broth or water. Butter size of an egg. 1 tablespoouful of flour—rather large. Yolk of 1 egg. Salt and pepper. A can Barataria shrimps. Stir the flour and most of the butter together over the fire. When they bub- ble begin adding the hot broth or water, and stir it till cooked and thick—about two minutes longer. Then drop in the egg yolk and beat, and next the remain- ing small piece of butter and beat till it is melted. Season slightly and put in the shrimps. They are already cooked, 119—Duchesse Potatoes. Usually served with fish, on the same plate. They are little cakes of mashed potatoes, iii fancy shapes or plain. Take four steamed potatoes and mash them with an ounce of butter, the yolk of an egg and salt. Spread on a pie plate, brush over with the yolk of an egg mixed with a spoonful of milk, cut in pieces of any shape, take up the pieces with a knife point, place them on a greased pan and bake a nice color on top. Cost of fish with sa'ice etc.—2 pounds fish 40, seasoning 1, shrimps 15, butter eggs and seasonings 3, potatoes 8 por- tions 2—61 cents for 8 to 12 portions, or about 7c an order. 120—Larded Filet of Beef. This is nothing if not neat, uniform, precise and workmanlike in appearance. There must be a pound of fat bacon for larding, cold and firm, so that it can be cut aright. Cut the slices a quarter inch thick, cut these in lengths of 1A inches and then into strips all precisely alike and as thick as a common pencil. Procure the filet or tenderloin of beef with the fat on it, that is with the coat- ing of suet that covers the upper side of it, and shave that down until the cover- ing of fat is about as thick as a beefsteak all over it. Then raise the edge of the fat at one side, skinning the filet, so to speak, and lay the sheet of fat over on the other side without cutting it off. This is to have the sheet of fat attached ready to cover over the filet again after it is larded with strips of bacon. Draw the point of a sharp knife across and across the skin inside the fat, to score it so that it will not draw up in cooking. Trim off the thin end of the filet and round off the thick end. Commence at the thick end with the larding. Insert a piece of bacon in the end of the larding needle and draw it through the top parts of the meat pinched up with the left thumb and finger for the purpose, one end of the strip of bacon so inserted will be left leaning backward, the other forward, on the surface. In- sert 6 or more of these strips iu a row across. Begin the next row so that the strips will come alternately between those of the first, and the exposed ends will cross the others, and so continue, with the regularity of stitching cloth, to the other end. Cover the larded filet with the sheet of tat. Make a long and COOKING FOR PROFIT. 43 narrow baking pan hot in the oven, with a tablespoonful of salt and a cup of drip- piugs in it, and enough water to keep the bottom from burning. Put in also a slice of turnip, carrot and onion, and a piece of celery. Have the oven hot, put in the filet, and roast it with the fat, covering it half an hour; then take off the fat, baste the filet with the con- tents of the pan, and let cook fifteen minutes longer, by which time the sur- face of the meat should be brown, and bacon strips brown too, without being burnt at the ends. Filets of beef vary in weight and thickness, and the time above given is only a guide to the average. Unless specially ordered otherwise, the thick part of the filet should cut slightly rare in the middle, while the thinner portion is well done. In carving, the filet should be sliced across vertically because it is a mass of strings ot meat lying side by side, and if cut slantingly the slices begin to be stringy and coarse. A filet that is to be Draised along with herbs, spices, veg- etables, wine, etc., is larded with strips of bacon or fat pork that pass clear through from one side to the other diag- onally, so that the slices cut across when done, show the larding all through the meat. Cost of filet—4 pounds $1,20, pork 15 (not all used but culled and spoiled), seasonings paid for with drippings; $1.35 for 3 pounds net, or 15 to 20 slices or 7c an order 121—Mushrooms Stewed in Wine. it down rapidly, and after that add the mushrooms, cayenne, and a spoonful of sherry. 122—Brown Gravy. Before serving the filet, or any roast meat let the gravy in the pan dry down until the grease can be poured off clear, while the glaze remains adhering to the pan; pour in water to dissolve it, and when it has boiled add a trifle of brown flour thickening if it seems to need it; strain through a fine strainer; serve some in the dish with the filet, the rest in a sauceboat. Larded filet of beef with mushrooms or, aux champignons, is the almost uni- versal dish at small party dinners. The common method of preparing the mush- rooms has been described at No. 48, but if a finished sauce is required use half brown beef gravy and half mushroom sauce, add a bastingspoon of wine and simmer at the side of the range and skim until clear, then if not thick enough boil 123—Brown Flour for Thickening. While butter and flour mixed in equal parts and baked brown makes the best thickening for gravies, plain browned flour does nearly as well and is more de- sirable when the butter is not very good. Put some sifted flour dry into a frying pan and bake deep brown in the oven. Use it at the rate of a tablespoonful to a cupful of liquid. Wet with water the same as raw flour, before stirring it in. It may be kept in a can always ready. 124—Stuffed Tomatoes. 6 or 8 large tomatoes. 1 cupful fine bread crumbs. 1 rounded tablespoonful of minced onion. 1 heaping tablespoonful minced fat bacon, or butter in equal amount. Slight grating of nutmeg. Cayenne and salt. Do not peel the tomatoes, but take a slice off the rough stem side and scoop out the inside with a tablespoon into a colander, so that the juice may partly drain away. Cut a thin slice or two of bread and mince across to make a cup- ful. Mix the crumbs and tomato pulp together, bacon, onion, very little salt, if any, pepper, and touch of nutmeg or mace. Fill the tomatoes with the mixture I rounded up on top, bake in a small pan SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 44. well buttered, with a greased sheet of paper over, one-half hour. Then mois- ten over the tops with the back of a spoon dipped in butter, dredge fine crumbs on top and bake again without cover until they are well browned. Cost—1 to 2 cents each according to season. One of the best substitutes for mushrooms with filet of beef. 125—Egg Plant Plain Fried-(Sauteed.) Slice the egg plant, without paring, into five or six, throwing away only the end parings. Boil the slices in salted water a few minutes to extract the strong taste, drain them, and while still moist dip both sides in flour, then fry brown in a frying pan with a little drippings. They are served as a vegetable, like fried parsnips, etc. Cost of material—fowl 50, butter 8, mushrooms 10, cream 6, seasonings 2 eggs, breading and frying 6, 82; 16 to 20 croquettes cost 4c to 5c each. !Note—The above is the way to make croquettes of the best quality, but a much cheaper will be found elsewhere described, and half the quantity can be made with the remains of fowl left over. Cost—lc each person. 126—Chicken Croquettes. 1 young hen lightly roasted. £ cup mushrooms. 1 small cup butter. Same of flour. 1 cup cream. Same tA broth or water. A slight grating of nutmeg. A little lemon juice. Pepper and salt. Cut the meat of the roast fowl into the smallest possible dice, mince the mush- rooms and add, sprinkle with a teas- poonful of mixed pepper and salt, grate a little nutmeg and squeeze a lemon over it. Make cream sauce by stirring the but- ter and flour together in a sauce pan and adding the broth and cream when it be- gins to bubble, and when the sauce is ready moisten the meat with it, stir it up well and set it away to become cold. Then make out in rolls about the size of a finger, roll in flour, then egg, then in cracker crumbs and fry in hot lard. Pile in the dish and garnish with fried parsley. 127—Stewed Cucumbers. Pare three or four young and good cu- cumbers, and cut them in thick slices, boil these in water, with a little salt and vinegar in it—the same as for egg-plant— for about fifteen minutes, then pour away the water. Make a cupful of cream sauce in another saucepan, mud, when ready, beat in the yolks of two eggs and a tablespoonful of vinegar. Pour this yellow sauce over the slices of cucumber, after they have been placed neatly in their dish. a 128—Angelica Punch. 2 cups California angelica wine. 2 cups hot water—a pint. 1 cup sugar \ pound. 1 cup stemmed raisins—h pound. 1 lemon. 2 whites of eggs and 2 tablespoonful of powdered sugar to beat in. Chop the raisins, grate half the rind the lemon, squeeze in all of the juice, pour the hot water to them, add the su- gar, and stir until it is all dissolved. Strain the flavored syrup thus obtained into a freezer, and rub the most of the raisin pulp through as well. Add the wine and freeze. When nearly frozen whip the two whites and the powdered sugar together till thick, add them to the punch and finish freezing. It is like cream. Serve in stem glasses. Cost of material—wine 25, sugar 5, raisins 10, lemon 2, whites and su^ar 3, ice and salt 12; 57 cents for 2 quarta (when beaten) of punch, or 16 glasses or more—3 cents a glass. COOKING FOR PROFIT. 45. 129—Boiled Young Ducks. Having picked and singed them, split tbem down the back and draw them. Cut off the neck and feet. Wash them quick- ly in cold water and wipe dry, and flat- ten them slightly to broiling shape with a tap of the cleaver. Lay the duck on a plate, dredge with salt and pepper and brush over both fides with butter. Broil on the gridiron over clear coals, the in- side first, about 15 minutes. Serve on a hot dish, with a border of small pieces of toast or green peas with currant jelly or a quartered lemon, or with the fofiow- sauce. 130 Orange Sauce For Meats. 1 orange. 1 cupful of brown sauce. £ cupful of claret. A little cayenne. Shave off very thinly the yellow rind of about a quarter of the orange and boil it in the brown sauce about 10 min- utes. Cut half the orange into small slices and remove the pith and seeds. Strain the brown sauce from the peel, throw into it the orange slices, squeeze in the juice of the remaining half, add the claret and cayenne, let it boil up and skim off the film that will rise. If there is no brown sauce on hand soap stock can be used and thickened with a spoonful of flour worked in a small piece of soft butter. Pour the sauce under the ducks in the dish and dispose the pieces of orange around them. Cost.—4 young ducks, $1; 1 can peas or sauce equivalent, 20—8 persons, 15 cents each. 131-Crab Salad. 6 boiled crabs, common size. 1 cup finely minced white cabbage. £ cup salad dressing. Pick the meat out of the crabs, cut all that can be cut into pieces of even riize and rub the rest smooth in salad dressing, adding a little mustard. Mix cabbage and dressing thoroughly, and the crab meat mix in lightly, without breaking the pieces. Fill 8 crab shells with the salad and place them on a dish previously prepared with a bed of cress or other green. Cost.—6 crabs, 30; dressing, 4; 34 cents for 8 orders. 132 Apple Turnovers. Sometimes served as a "sweet en- tree;" more suitable to put in place of pie; best for luncheon, pic-nic parties, and for sale; a favorite form of pastry everywhere. Make the flaky pie paste with about 12 ounces of butter to a pound of flour, roll it out to a thin sheet and cut out flats nearly as large as saucers, with the lid of a baking powder can or similar cutter. Place a good spoonful of dry stewed apple in the middle of each piece of paste and double over in half-moon shape. Press the two edges together and crimp them with the thumb and finger. When the baking pan is full of the turnovers, brush them over with egg-and-water, and dredge granulated sugar on top. Bake slowly till they are crisp, glazed and of a fine reddish brown color. These large sizes have generally to be cut in two. They contain more fruit and are better eating when made small. Cost of Mateeial.—Four turnovers —crust 4, apple marmalade, 2, egg and sugar glaze, 2; 8 c. or 1 cent each order. 133—Puff Paste. 1 pound of cold flour. 15 ounces of cold butter. 1 cupful of ice water. Get quite ready to make the paste be- fore you begin, that it may be done quickly. It will not, perhaps, belightand good if allowed to stand long in a warm room. Leave out a handful of flour to SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES 46. dust with. Make a hollow in the mid- dle of the rest in a pan, pour in the ice- water and mix up gradually with the fingers. Turn the paste on the tablo double and press a little to make it, smooth. Roll it out to half an inch thickness, pound the butter with a potato masher to make it pliable, drop half of it in lumps all over the sheet of paste, sift a very little flour over, press down the lumps of butter, fold over in three and turn the broad side toward you. Roll out again, drop the rest of the butter as before, fold in three and count that one. Roll out evenly with plenty of flour to prevent sticking, fold over in three and count that two. Do the same four limes more, making six folds (beside the first one not counted) and it is ready for use, but should be allowed to stand awhile in the refrigerator to lose the tendency- it has when first made to draw up out of shape. If you have a good refrigerator at hand the puff past* will be the better for being set in it after the third folding and allowed to remain \ hour and then taken out and finished rolling, but, it not, the only way to have the paste good is to start with cold material and make it and bake it so quickly that it has not time to warm and melt in the meantime. 134—Cherry Tartlets. 1 heaping cup ripe cherries. I level cup light brown sugar. lijwunds puff paste. Set the cherries on to cook in a small saucepan with a bastingspoon of water, and sugar spread over the top. Put on the lid and let simmer slowly then set them away to become cold. The fruit for this purpose should be rich with a thick strong syrup, because only a small quantity is used and it should not run out of the tartlets. Roll the pufl paste to £ inch thick, cut out with a biscuit cutter, and cut the middle of each part way through with a smaller cutter. Put them in a hot oven and when they are risen open the door partly and let them dry well done. Take out the middle piece with a knife point and fill the tarttets with the stewed fruit. Cost of material—butter 23, flour 3; 26 cents for 2£ pounds. Makes 5 pies with single bottom crusts, or 3 covered- depending upon the size or 20 turnovers or 20 to 25 tarts in patty pans, or 10 to 16 tartlets like the following. Note—Lard of a solid, firm sort will make puff paste that is quite as good as that made with butter, and that rises nearly as high in the baking; and the cost is reduced according to the differ- ence in price per pound. But soft lard cannot be used for this purpose. The best common flaky paste is made with half lard and half butter, with salt sprinkled over the lard, the butter put into the dough first, and the whole of the ingredients kept as cold as possible. Cost—about 2c each, or according to whether fresh or cannnd frut is used and the price. 135—Tipsy Pudding. Sheets of sponge cake partly saturated with rum and set in a pun of cold boiled custard, For the cake make this: £ cupful of sugar 4 ounces. 2 eggs. 6 tablespoonfuls of water. 1 cup of flour—4 ounces 1 teaspoonful baking powder. Separate the eggs—the whites in a bowl or dish, the yolks in the mixing pan. Put the sugar and water in with the yolks, and beat them till they are a thick yellow froth. Mix the powder in the flour, add that and stir up well. Whip the whites firm, add them last. Grease and flour 2 jelly cake pans, di- vide the mixture into them and bake of a very light color. When done place the sheets of cake one on the other in a pan and pour i cup of rum or brandy into them with a teaspoon. Have ready 2 cups of custard and pour around. Cat in 8 and serve like pudding and sauce. COOKING FOR PROFIT. 47. Cost of material—sugar and flour 3, eggs 4, powder 1, rum 12, custard 9, 29c, for 8 dishes 3 or 4 cents an order. 136—Boiled Custard. 2 cups milk. 2 eggs. 2 heaping tablespoons sugar. Flavoring of nutmeg or stick cinna- mon. Boil the milk with half the sugar in it to prevent burning on the bottom. Beat the two eggs in a cup with the rest of the sugar and a spoonful of milk added. When the milk boils pour a little to the eggs, then turn all into the saucepan and stir until it thickens and shows signs of boiling. Too much cook- ing will spoil it. 137—Caramel Ice Cream. 3 cups rich milk. 1 cup cream. 6 yolks of eggs. 2 tablespoons sugar for caramel 8 tablespoons sugar to sweeten i cupcuracoa. Set the 2 ounces of sugar over the fire in a little saucepan, without water, and let it melt and brown to the color of ma- ple syrup, then add to it a few spoons- fals of water and set it at the side to dissolve and make liquid caramel. Boil the 3 cups of milk with half the sugar in it, beat the yolks with the rest of the sugar and a spoonful of milk added, pour them and the milk together and cook a minute carefully to make smooth yellow custard. Add the caramel to it and strain it into the freezer, pour in the curacoa when cold and whip the cup of cream and add that and freeze with rapid beating. Cost of material—-milk and cream 10, eggs 8, sugar 7, curacoa 20, ice and salt 10, 55 cents for about 2 quarts af- ter freezing. 138—Clams on the Half Shell. The smallest clams are preferred. Wash the outside thoroughly before opening. Loosen the clams from shell they are served in and retain all the liquor the shell will hold. Place 4 or 5 in each plate and half a lemon in the middle. Cost—depends on locality. The fur- ther from the sea shore the more of a variety to serve at a fine diner. 139—Consomme Royal. We have no word in English for con- somme but broth, and that is not an equivalent,but only a substitute. French cooks understand by consomme a clear soup as rich as melted jelly. Consomme royal is of the color of brandy, with little egg custards floating in it. Simmer a large fowl and two or more shanks of veal in a gallon >f water for three or four hours, and while it is cooking add the vegetables and season- ings. These should be the usual soup bunch (without parsnips or green onion tops, however), together with a stalk of celery, half a bay leaf, a teaspoonful of bruised pepper-corns and a sprig of green thyme or marjoram. When it has boiled long enough strain the broth into a saucepan. To clarify the consomme,chop a pound of lean beef fine, mix with it two whites of eggs and a cup of cold water. Then pour the broth to the be af, stir up and boil again. Strain through a napkin or jelly bag, season with salt, color with a teaspoonful of dissolved burnt sugar and remove every particle of grease. To make the floating custards take three or four yolks of eggs, raw, and mix with them a spoonful of the consomme. Pour into a slightly buttered saucer and steam it until done—10 minutes. Cut the custard in diamond shapes and drop three or tour in each soup plate. Where it is not necessary to be ex- tremely particular good clear soup can be obtained by letting the soup-stock get cold in ajar and after taking oft the fat, pouring it off without disturbing the SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETIES 48. sediment. Strain through a napkin, make hot and add the spoonful of coloring and salt as before. Cost of material—chicken to be used in salad or patties 0, veal 16, vegetables 5, beef 10, eggs, 6; 37c for 2 quarts, or 3c per plate. 140—Vegetable Soup. 2 quarts of soup stock—8 or 10 cups. 3 cups mixed vegetables. Seasonings. Take for the stock the liquor in which any kind of meat has been boiled—be e shank, mutton, heart, tongue, fowl, rab bit, etc., and corned beef liquor does very well. The richer the stock can be, of course the better it is. Strain it into the sonp pot. Skim off most of the fat almost every kind of vegetable can be used. Take a piece of each andc ut al into dice shapes, or, if to be very nice, cut vegetables in slices and stamp out little patterns with a tin cutter or the point of a tin funnel. There should be turnips white and yellow, carrot, pump- kin, celery, string beans, green peas, onions, summer squash, cauliflower. If vegetables are scarce, a little parsnip and cabbage and potatoes can be used but the latter put in late so as not to boil away. Boil the hard vegetaDles, such as car- rots, turnips, onions, string beans and celery, together in a little saucepan first; then pour the water away and put the vegetables in the boiling stock, and add the easy-cooking kinds, such as cauli- flower, asparagus heads and peas— whatever may be on hand. At last add a piece of red tomato, cut small, salt and pepper to taste and a tablespoonful of corn starch .mixed in a cup with water. Cost—about 10c per quart or 8 plates 141—Baked Sea Bass. Scale and clean the fish; leave the head on if it h to be sent to table whole. Make a stuffing for it of 2 pressed cupfnls of bread crumbs, a small cupful of but-1 three hours. ter, rind of a quarter of lemon minced fine, parsely,green thyme and marjoram, and pepper and salt, and two eggs mixed with a spiontul of water to mois- ten it. Sew up the fish when stuffed. Mark it in slices as if to be carved, on both sides, by cutting down to the bone, and put a thin slice of sait pork in each incision. Bake in a long pan, with soup stock and salt and pepper in it, about 30 or 40 minutes, or according to size. Put a little strained tomatoes and brown gravy into the fish pan, and water if necessary; let boil up, skim and strain for sauce. Cost of material—3 lbs fish 36, pork slices for insertion and scraps in baking pan 6, stuffing and sauce 15; 57c for 8 to 12 orders or 5 or 6c per plate. 142—Small Potatoes. Scoop out balls size of cherries from large potatoes with a potato spoon. A cupful will make enough for a dozen plates of fish. Make \ cup of butter and \ cup of lard hot in a very small saucepan and drop the potato balls in and let them stew slowly, As soon as the butter gets down to the frying point and the potatoes and sediment begin to brown on the bottom pour off all the grease and set the potatoes in the oven a tew minntes to acquire a handsome color. Sprinkle salt and chopped pars- 'ey among (hem. Serve a tablespoon- ful with each plate of fish. These are not the same as fried potatoes and when first put into the boiling butter and lard they must be stirred from the bottom once or twice lest they scorch and ac- quire a bad taste. 143—Boiled Corned Tongue, Caper Sauce. Fresh tongues put in a jar and cover- ed with the brine or pickel No. 106, will be of a good pink color and nicely salted in from a week to ten days. Wash off the corned tongue and boil it Plunge it in cold water COOKING FOR PROFIT. 49. and pelt off ihe skin then set in a hot place. In carving cut slantingly to make long slices that will not run out too small at the thin end. Serve with caper sauce, which is butter sauce with a little of the caper vinegar mixed in and the capers—-about a teaspoonful—dashed on top of the sauce on the meat. Cost of materhl—tongue 35, sauce 5; 40c for 8 to 12 orders or 4c per plate. 144— Roast Rib Ends of Beef. Take the ends of the ribs that are sawed off the rib roasts, and put them in to cook early, while breakfast is still going on. Let there be in the baking pan, which should be a deep one,a hand- ful of salt, 2 or 3 ladlefuls of sweet fresh drippings from the previous day's roasting, and about as much water or soup stock, and let simmer in the oven, never getting quite without water in the pan till very nearly time to serve dinner. If other meats have to be crowded into the same pan let these rib ends be at the bottom, they will be so much the richer and keep on cooking in the gravy till tender and glutinous. At last, the water being all evaporated out ef the pan, roll these rib ends over and over in the natural glaze that remains on the bottom and take them out brown and shining before they likewise get dry. Serve cuts of 2 or 3 ribs with gravy. Cost of material—3 lbs beef rib ends 18, seasonings and gravy 2; 20c for 8 or 10 orders. 145—The Side of Lamb. The dainty dish of spring lamb may easily be spoiled, or at least made very unsatisfactory by careless cutting. If you take off the shoulder it will scarcely make two good orders when roasted, and the ribs underneath it will amount to nothing. Nearly all who choose their cuts ask for the ribs and the carver needs all that the cook can fur- nish. Instead of taking the shoulder off,bone it where it is, beginning at the throat. Cut along on both sides of the blade bone and pull it out. There will not be much time for careful boning, nor is it necessary, five minutes or less will do. Saw the ribs across the middle, hack through the back bone with the point of a sharp cleaver at two ribs apart and hack the brisket through ready for carv- ing in the same manner. Then pull the meat of the shoulder well over the bris- ket and fasten it with a skewer or two. When carved, the ribs will carry a good, meaty slice of the shoulder with them, and with a little management the brisket en Is of the ribs can be equally well por- tioned off. The side thus prepared should be roasted in one piece, loin and flank in- cluded, but the leg requiring more time to cook, should be made a separate cut. The loin should likewise be carefully hacked through the back bone ready for carving into slices like loin chops. 146—Roast Lamb—Mint Sauce. It cooks in from 30 to 45 minutes. Should be fairly done through and no more. Needs to be in a pan by itself. Having prepared the meat as directed above, wash it in cold water, dredge both sides with salt and flour, by pres- sing both sides down into a pan of flour and shake off the surplus. Place it with the outside upwards ia a baking pan already hot and containing a little ■alt waterand drippings. When the upper side has cooked so that the flour will not wash off begin to baste it and repeat frequently. If a quarter pound of quite fresh butter can be had melt it and baste the lamb with it at the finish. The butter froths upon meat and gives it a fine color. Cost of material—fore-quarter of lamb, or 4 lbs, 60, mint sauce 5; 65c for 12 dishes or 5 or 6c per order. 147- Mint Sauce for Roast Lamb. The conventional lamb sauce. No 50 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETIE'S other sauce or gravy is needed when thin is used; 2 tablespoons green mint. 1 tablespoon sugar. \ cup vinegar. Pick the leaves of mint from the stems, wash and chop fine, and mix with the sugar and vinegar in a bowl. Serve cold, a spoonful to each plate. 148— Roast Green Goose. Singe and pick the young goose free from pin-feathers and draw it. If to send the tame whole, the pinions should be cut off before cooking and the main wing joints skewered to the back, and the legs held compactly to the side either with skewers or twine. Fry a minced onion in butter, light yellow, and not at all dark and strong, and mix it with some dry mushed potatoes; add an egg and the butter that the onion was fried in and a seasoning of white pepper. Stuff the goose with the sea- soned potato, sew up, bake it in a pan for about one hour, or more, if large. Dredge the goose over with flour when nearly done, and baste it with butter, which will produce a fine crust and brown color. If to be sent in whole, bake some small apples in a pan covered with greased paper and place them around the goose in a dish. Cost of material—the same as spring lamb, about 6 or 7c an order, according to market price. 149—Cucumber Salad. Slice the cucumbers two hours before they are wanted and sprinkle the slices plentifully with salt. Set the dieh in the refrigerator. Just before dinner drain away the salt liquor from the cucum- bers and shake (hem about with oil first, and then with vinegar and pepper. Serve on a very cold dish. * 150 Turkey Salad. Take the remainder of a cooked tur- key or half a boiled turkey, if cooked for the purpose, pick all the meat from the bones and remove the thick fat and skin, cut the meat into long shreds and then across, making the smallest, pos- sible dice shapes. Cut celery, if in sea- son, the same way, about two-thirds as much celery ns there is turkey, or if that is not in season use crisp lettuce or a mixture of lettuce and finely chop* ped white cabbage, and add celery salt or extract or celery vinegar. Mix meat and the vegetables together, season slightly with nepper and salt. Pour in a little salad oil—say a quarter cupful, stir about and then stir in as much vin- egar. Heap and smooth over the salad in a large platter—it will adhere and keep shape well—then pour and spread over it a well-seasoned mayonaise. After spreading the mayonaise over the turkey salad, ornament with quar- ters of hard boiled eggs or with chop- ped yolks and parsley, olives, cut lem- ons or shapes stamped out of cooked beets. Cost of material—2 lbs turkey meat or chicken 40, oil, vinegar and season- ings 10, celery and garnishings 10, may- onaise 15; 75c for 2 quarts, or from 8 to 16 orders; or, 40c per quart or 5c per hotel dinner dish. 151—Mayonaise Salad Dressing. 2 raw yolks of eggs. \ teacup olive oil. About half as much vinegar or lemon juice. A level teaspoon salt. Same of made mustard. Pinch of cayenne. Put the two raw yolks in a pint bowl, add two tablespoonfuls of oil, set the bowl in ice-water or otherwise make it cold, and beat with a Dover egg-beater about a half a minute. Then add more oil and whip, and then throw in the salt, and on whipping again the mixture will at once thicken up, looking like softened butter. Then add a spoonful of vinegar, then oil and so on alternately till all is in. Add the mustard and cayenne for seasoning. The best mayonaise is COOKNG FOR PROFIT. 51 made with lemon juice instead of part of the vinegar, and when it will not thicken as desired the lemon juice inva- riably corrects the trouble and gives the dressing the desired consistency. It should not be thin enough to run, but should coat over the pile of salad mate- rial it is spread upon. The foregoing shows the quickest method of making this important sauce or dressing; the egg-beater or the want of it need not, however, be an obstacle in the way, for simply stirring around in the bowl with ;i wooden spoon is the way most com- monly practiced. 152—Water Cress Salad. Cut away tho rough stems, pick off the root fibers, and wash the cress care- fully. Drain, cut it in inch lengths, season in a bowl with a little salt and pepper, and when they are mixed in sprinkle with vinegar. Serve in small salad dishes individually, 153—Lambs' Tongues with Artichokes. Take for preference, corned lambs' or sheeps' tongues of a good pink color, and boil them not less than 2 hours, which may be done the evening before they are served, if more convenient. Put them into cold water and peel off the outside and split them lengthwise in two. Having the halves ready in a dish when the roast meat is done, after taking it out lay the tongues in the fat and glaze in the baking pan for about 5 min- utes,then take them out slightly browne 1 and glazed and keep hot. Cook an artichoke for each dish, as directed further on, boiling them, that is to say, like summer cabbage or cauli- flower, but cut them in halves instead of quarters; only scoop out the fibrous part before cooking. Drain them well. Serve half a tongue in the small dish and a half artichoke at each end, and a spoonful of brown gravy over the vege- table without covering the tongue. Tongue and spinach may be served the same way. Cost of miterial—I tongues 20, arti- chokes and gravy 10; 30cfor 8 dishes or about 4 cents per order. 154—Spaghetti and Cheese— Romaine. Spaghetti is maccoroni in another form, a solid cord instead of a tube. 4 ounces spaghetti—2 cups when broken. 1 cup minced cheese—2 ounces. 1 cup milk. Butter size of an egg. 2 yolks of eggs. This dish ought to be quite yellow. Throw the spaghetti into water that is already boiling, and salted. After cook- ing 20 minutes drain it dry, and put it into the buttered dish it is to be baked in. Put the cheese and butter and half the milk into a saucepan and stir them over the fire till the cheese is nearly melted, mix the yolks with the rest of the milk, pour that into the saucepan, then add the whole to the spaghetti in the pan, and bake it a yellow brown in as short > time as possible. It loses its richness if cooked too long, through the toughening of the cheese. Cost of material—spaghetti 4, cheese 3, milk 1, butter 3, egg-yolks 3; 14c for 8 orders, or about 2c per dish. 155—Vanilla Puff Fritters—Rum Sauce. 1 cup water— \ pint. \ cup butter- -3 \ ounces. 2 rounded tablespoons sugar. I rounded cup flour—5 ounces. 3 large eggs. 1 teaspoon vanilla extract. Boil the water with the sugar and butter in it in a deep saucepan. Drop in the flour all at once and stir the mix- ture over the fire till you have a firm, well-cooked paste. Take it from the fire and work in the eggs one at a time with a spoon, and beat the paste well against the side of the sancepan. Add the vanilla with the last egg. The more the paste is beaten the more the puffs will expand in the frying fat. 52 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S Make some lard hot. It will take half a sauccpauful. Drop pieces of the batter about as large as eggs and watch them swell and expand in the hot lard and become hollow and light. Only four or five at a time can be fried because they need lots of room. The fritters being slightly sweet will be liable to fry too dark if the lard be made too hot; and they may be as much as five minutes in it before they begin to swell and roll over. Cost of material—butter 8, sugar and vanilla 2, flour 1, eggs 6, lard to fry damaged 4 21c for 12 fritters—rum sauce 11—32 cents for 12 dishes of frit- ters with rum sauce or about 3c per order. 156—Rum Sauce for Fritters. 1 cup water. £ cup sugar. 1 rounded tablespoon starch. £ a lemon—without the seeds. 1 ounce butter. 1 bsstingspoon of rum. Boil the water. Mix the starch with the sugar dry and stir them in. Slice the lemon into it and add the butter and let the sauce simmer at the side until it becomes quite transparent. Then add the rum. Pour a spoonful over each fritter as they are dished up. Cost—11 or 12 cents. 157— BrowneiTPotatoes. stroy the small flowerets. Try the stems with a fork and take off when tender. A lump of baking soda the size of a bean in the water will hasten the cook- ing without injuring the vegetable. Divide the cauliflower into portions of convenient size before cooking, unci when drained and dished up pour ;i spoonful or two of good strained cream sauce over each portion. 159—Stewed Butter Beano. Throw Lima or butter beans into ;i sauce-pan ofwater that is already boil- ing and has salt in it, and cook about half-hour, if green beans, but if dried they will take one and a halt hours, be- sides a previous soaking in water. Drain away the water, and mix a little cream sauce or butter sauce, or add milk, but- ter and salt, and thicken when it boils up. Pare the potatoes and steam them,and the broken ones being used to mash, or a la duchesse, put the others in a small pan with some of the drippings from the roast lamb pan and a dredging of sait and bake them brown. Cold boiled or baked potatoes are not fit for this pur- pose—they can be used better for break- fast dishes. 158—Cauliflower in Cream. Cauliflower takes from half to three- quarters of an hour to cook done. It should not boil rapidly enough to de- 160—Artichokes as a Vegetable. Let lhe artichokes lie in a pan of cold water,the same as is the rule for cauliflo w- er,spinach,etc., an houror two before they are to be cooked. Wash well, and if the tips of the leaves are discolored, clip them; cut the artichokes in 4 and remove the stringy core. Have the water ready boiling, put in a teaspoonful of salt and baking soda the size of a bean, boil the artichokes about \ hour or until the soft end of the leaf when pulled out proves to be tender. Drain and serve like cauliflower, 2 pieces in a dish, and a spoonful of buttfr sauce poured over. 161—Indian Fruit Pudding. 3 cups milk or water—\ pints. 1 cup yellow corn-meal—6 ounces. 1 teacup minced suet—3 ounces. \ teacup black molasses—3 ounces. 2 eggs. Little salt. 1 cup seedless raisins—4 ounces. Same of currants. \ teaspoon ginger, cinnamon, or grated lemon rind. Make mush with the meal and water and let it cook well with the steam shut COOKING FOR PROFIT. 53 in for an hour or two* Then mix in all the other ingredients, the fruit previously dusted with flour, and bake it in a pan or mold about an hour. Cover with greased paper to keep the fruit from blistering. Three heaping cups of corn- meal mush ready made will do as well. The above makes a quart of pudding. Cost of material—meal 2, suet or but- ter 3, molasses 2, eggs 4, raisins 5 currants and spices 5; 21c for 8 orders— with sauce 3c per dish. 162—Rich Lemon Pie. 7 ounces sugar—a cupful. 3 lemona. 1 cup rich cream. 6 yolks of eggs and 2 whites. Place the sugar in a bowl and grate the lemon rinds into it with a tin greater, and then squeeze in the juice. Beat the yolks of eggs light and mix the cream with them; pour this to the lemon and sugar, and just before filling the pie crusts with the mixture whip the two whites to a froth and stir them in. Use puff-paste to line the pie pans. The mixture will fill two pies, or three if small. It is hard to bake without brown- ing the top too much, so they should be under the shelf of the oven. These rich pies do not need frosting,only a dredging of powdered sugar. Cost of material—sugar 5, lemons 6, cream 6, eggs 12, paste 6; 35c for 10 portions, or 3 or 4 cents each order. 163—White Cocoanut Pie. 1 cup milk. 2 tablespoons sugar. 1 rounded tablespoon starch. 2 or 3 ounces grated cocoanut. 3 or 4 whites of eggs. Small piece of butter. Pinch of salt. Boil the milk alone. Mix the starch and sugar together dry and stir them in; then the butter and cocoanut. Set it away to get cold. Whip the whites to a firm froth and mix them with the pie- mixture. Bake in thin crusts of puff paste. Makes two small pies. Cost of material—milk 2, sugar and starch 2, cocoanut 5, butter 1, eggs 4, crusts for 2 pies 5; 19 cents for 8 por- tinos, or 2 to 3c per order. 164—Apricot Ice. 3 cupfuls of apricots cut in pieces-. 1 cupful of sugar—8 ounces!. 2 cupfuls of water The kernels of half the apricots. 2 whites of eggs. The ripest and sweetest apricots, if the fresh fruit be used, should be kept out, one cupful to be mixed in the ice when finished. Stew the other two cupfuls and the peeled kernels in the water and sugar for a few minutes, rub the fruit then with the back of a spoon, through a strainer into the freezer along with the syrup. Freeze like ice cream and when it is nearly finished whip the two whites to a firm froth, mix them in and turn the freezer rapidly a short time longer. Stir in the cut apricots just before serving. Canned apricots can be used as well, and if in syrup that can be mixed in also. Cost of material—apricots 25, sugar 5, white of eggs 4, ice and salt 10; 44c for 3 pints or 8 to 12 dishes, or 4c per order. 165—Fine White Cake. 18 ounces granulated sugar—2£ ends 8 ounces white butter—1 large cup. £ pint of milk—1 large cup. 5 ounces of corn starch—1 roupde. cup. 12 ounces of flour—3 rounded cups. 2 large teaspoonfuls cream tartar. 1 small teaspoonful of soda. 12 whites of eggs. Vanilla extract to flavor. Sift the cream tartar in the flour three or four times over. 54 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES Mix the starch in a small bowl with the cup of milk. Get the whites of eggs ready in a tin pail or large whipping bowl. Dissolve the soda in two spoonfuls of milk in a cup. Put the sugar and butter together in the mixing pan, warm them slightly and stir till creamy and add the dissolved soda. Srir in the corn starch and milk. Whip the whites to a firm froth and mix them and the prepared flour in a portion of each alternately. Flavor. Bake as soon as mixed; either in layers for choc- olate cake or in mold. If the latter, frost over when cold. Cost—50 cents for a 2 quart mold or about 3 lbs of cake; with icing 5c more. 166— Tomato Soup. 2 quarts sonp stock. 1 cupful stewed tomatoes. 1 small cupful of minced vegetables. 6 cloves. 1 tablespoon minced parsley. Salt and pepper to taste. Little flour for thickening. Tomatoes stewed down after season- ing with salt, pepper and butter, are a different article from the freshly pre- pared and impart a new richness to soup. The soup stock may be the liquor in which a piece of beef or mutton is boiled for dinner, with the addition of other raw scraps and pieces, such as the bones and gristly ends of a beefsteak. An hour before dinner time take out the meat strain the stock through a fine strainer and into the soup pot. Cut piece of car- rot, turnip and onion into small dice and throw in and let cook till done and add the cloves and cup of tomatoes, pepper and salt, thickening and the pars- ley at 1 'St. It is generally considered a reproach to say the soup is thin. A proper mili- um should be observed. A spoonful of flour gives the smoothness and substance required without destroying the clear- ness of the soup. Colt of material—stock 4, tomatoes 6, vegetables and seasonings 2; 12c for 12 plates. 167—Middle Cut of Salmon—Boiled. Take about three pounds of the mid- dle out of a small salmon, and, having scaled and cleaned it, put it on to cook in water that is already boiling and strongly salted. The fish should be placed on the drainer or false bottom of the fish kettle, but where there is no such utensil the precaution should be taken to wrap and pin it in a buttered napkin, that it may come out of the water unbroken. Let it cook very gently at the side of the range for three- quarters of an hour. Take it up, re- move the skin, and place it carefully on a hot dish. At the moment that it is sent to table pour over it some of the fresh butter sauce of the next recipe, fill the remaining space around it in the dish with a pint of potato boulleites, and send in some more of the sauce in a sauce-boat. 168—Scotch Fish Sauce. Set 8 ounces of the best butter, the juice of one lemon, a pinch of cayenne and a tablesoonful of chopped parsley in a bowl in a place warm enough to soften the butter, but not to melt it, and when the sauce is wanted tor use stir together until creamy. Cost of material—salmon 1,00, pota- toes 2, sauce 20; $1,22 for 12 hotel orders or 10c per plate. 169—Boiled Bacon and Cabbage. (Jut 2 summer cabbages in quarters and cut out most of the stem part. Let lie in a pan of cold water until wanted to cook. Put on sauc :paa plenty large enough with water and salt and a very little baking soda in it—about the size of a bean for two cabbages—when it boils put in the cabbage and let it cook half an hour. Shave the smoky outside off a pound COOKING FOR PROFIT. 55 of bacon and boil the bacon in a sauce- pan by itself for half hour. Then drain off both cabbage and bacon and put them both together in one pot, pour in boiling water just to cover, put on a good-fitting lid and let them slowly cook together half hour longer. The quarters of cabbage, nice and green appearing, should be drained in the spoon as they are taken up without destroying their shape, and placed in the dish with the bacon sliced on top. Cost of material - 3 c per plate. -24c for 8 orders or 170—Roast Beef. To roast or bake meat so that, how- ever small the piece may be, it will be found full of gravy when cut, it is necessary to have the pan it is baked in hot before the meat goes in, and al- though there must be liquor in the pan while it is baking, that should be added after the meat has become hot enough outside for the pores to be closed and juices retained inside. The choice roasting piece of beef is the ribs between the edge of the shoulder- blade and the loin—the short ribs. As the butchers have to sell everything, as a matter of business, they take out the ri is and coil the thin meat of the breast around the choice upper portion, and make a neat cushion-shaped roast, se- cured with twine and skewers. In the places where the highest prices are paid, however, the breast portion has to be cit away altogether and cooked separately, as in our example of last week, and the choice upper portion or entre-cote only is roasted. This is nearly always cooked rare done, and the plentiful grary that flows from it when cut is caught in a dish and is the only gravy served with it. As to time, the old rule is the only one. Allow a quarter of an hour for each pound of meat, and less, according to judgment, when the roast is of thin shape or required to be very rare done. Common Roast of beef, by slicing off the top. To be carved Choice roast, close trimmed and the spine bone removed. To be carved by cutting entire slices off the end. Cost of roast beef—common roast beef at 12c, loses one-third in trimmings and cooking—1 pound 18c, 6 plates to the pound, 3c per plate. Choice roast at 18c, same proportions, 6 plates to the pound 4£c per plate. 171—Stuffed Brisket of Veal. The breast or brisket of veal is a low- priced cut, at least when the veal is large, but is most excellent when cooked tender. There is a large proportion of gelatinous bone and tendon good for soups and stews. Take the entire "plate," as the butchers call it, and take out the bones by cutting down the sides of the ribs and along the brisket edge with the point of the knife, without cutting down through. Then chop the bone in pieces and use them in soup, as directed in a previous receipe. Make the bread stuffing the same as for roast turkey, lay it on the broad, boneless piece of veal—which may be made broader and evener by splitting the breast edge part way—then roll up and tie in good shape with twine. Put the 5G SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES rolled veal into a baking pan, with fat skimmed from the soup, a little water and bait and baked with greased paper on top for a time, according to the size of the veal—probably an hour and a half. Baste it with a little drippings roll it over in the glaze or gravy of the pan when that becomes brown at last, and make pan gravy when the meat is taken out the usual way. Cost of material—3 lbs veal brisket at 10c lose" one half in boning, soup bones pay for the dressing—2 lbs stuffed veal for 30, or 8 to 10 orders, 3c per plate. 172 Ragout of Sweetbreads and Mushrooms. 2 or 3 large sweetbread si, or 1 pound. \ can mushrooms. 2 ounces butter—size of an egg. 1 tablespoon flour. Little minced onion and ham for sea- soning. Juice of 1 lemon. Cayenne and sait. Fried shapes of bread for the border. Take the sweatbreads already cooked and cold, and cut them in large dice. Make the sauce for them in a deep saucepan, first putting in half the butter, a large teaspoonf'ul of minced onion and a very thin slice of ham, and when these are cooked enough for flavor without browning put in the flour and stir the mixture over the fire until it begins to color. Then add gradually the mush- room liquor and a cupful of the liquor the sweatbreads were boiled in, let it boil up and become thick. Add a pinch of cayenne. Next, melt the other piece of butter in a frying-pan, put in the mushrooms and the cup of sweetbreads and shake them about over the tire until they begin to show color; take it off, squeeze in the juice of the lemon and strain in the thick sauce from the other vessel. Dish them heaped up in the center of a flat platter, or of small dishes for individual ordeis, and place a border of thin shapes of bread fried in lard around the edge. Cost of material—sweetbreads 30, mushrooms 15, butter 4, seasonings and croutons 4; 53c for 8 orders or 6 or 7c per plate. 173—Macaroni and Cheese—Bechamel. 5 ounces Macaroni—\ package. 2 ounces cheese—\ cup. 2 ounces butter. \ pints milk, or water—3 cups. 2 eggs. Salt. Parsley and flour thickening. Boil the macaroni by itself first, throw- ing it into water that is already boiling and salted. Let it cook only 20 minutes. Then drain it dry and put it into a pan or baking dish holding about three pints. Chop the cheese, not very fine, and mix it with the macaroni likewise the butter. Beat the two eggs and the pint of water or milk together, pour them on the macaroni and set in the oven to bake. While it is getting hot boil a cup of milk (the remaining half pint of the recipe), and thicken it with a rounded tablespoonful of flour mixed up with part of it in a cup, add salt and a tablespoon- ful of chopped parsley, and when the macaroni in the oven is set so that the two cannot mix, pour this white cream sauce on top of it, shut up the oven, and let it bake a yellow brown. This makes a very attractive dish, as the yellow cheese and custard boils up in spots among the white sauce and parsley. Cost of material—macaroni 5, cheese 3, butter 4, milk 2, eggs 4, seasonings 1; 19c for 8 orders, 2£c per plate. 174-New Potatoes, Maitre d'Hotel. All articles that are a la maitre d'hotel have an acid and some green in the sauce. Take potatoes that are small and just out of the ground and scrape them, keeping them covered with cold water until time to cook. Put them on in cold water, COOKING FOR PROFIT. 57 with sait in it; boil with care, not to let them break when done. Drain off; put in fresh hot water, little sait, lnmp of batter, vinegar to make taste slightly, chopped parsley, and when these have boiled up. a spoonful of flour thicken- ing. Shake about, without putting a spoon in, until it thickens. 175—Summer Squash. This vegetable should always be steamed, or at any rate not boiled in water, it being an object to get it as dry as possible so as to allow the addition of milk or cream when it is mashed. Shave off the outside thinly with a sharp knife; cut each squash in six or eight pieces. It depends upon the age and distinctness of the seeds whether they should be cut out or not if large enough to show prominently in the mashed squash take out the entire core. Squash cooks in about half an hour, and may be al- lowed to simmer and dry out more after mashing and seasoning, in a pan set upon a couple of bricks. 176—Steamed Cherry Pudding. 177—Hard Sauce. 1 large cup powdered sugar, £ pound. 1 small cup fresh buttei, \ pound. Gruted nutmeg. Soften the butter but not melt it. Stir it and the sugar together to a cream as in making cake. The more it is stirred (if in a bowl or disn and not in tin) the whiter it becomes. Spread it on a dish and grate nutmeg on top. Keep it cold until wanted. Good for all kinds of puddings, and can be colored pink by adding while steaming a little red fruit juice. Cost—butter and sugar I3c. J78.—Sliced Apple Pie, Rich. 1 cup pitted cherries. 2 heaping cups flour. 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder. J cup water. Mix the powder in the flour dry, make a hollow in the middle, throw in a little salt, pour in the water and mix up as soft aa it can be handled. Work the dough on the table slightly by pressing in flat with the hands and doubling over. Lay a bottom crust of it in a tin pud- ding pan that holds a quart; spread half the pitted cherries on it, lay another crust on them, then the remainder of the cherries and a third sheet of dough on top. Set in a steamer and steam from 30 to 45 minutes and serve while hot and light, with sauce. Use this way only the best ripe cook- ing applies. Pare and core and slice them thin across the core hole, making rings. Fill paste-lined pie pans about two layers deep. Thinly cover the ap- ple slices with sugar, and grate nutmeg- over. Put in each pie, butter about the size of a walnut and a large spoonful of water. Bake without a top crust slowly and dry. The apples become transpar- ent and half candied. Cost of material—for 2 pies, puff paste 6, apples 2, sugar 3, butter 2; count 2 per plate. 179— Lemon Sherbet. Cost of material—cherries 10, flour 2, riwder 2; 14—hard sauce 13—27c for orders or 3£c per plate. 1 quart water. 1 pound sugar. 2 targe lemons. 3 whites of eggs. Grate the rinds of the lemons into a bowl and squeeze in the juice. Make a boiling syrup of the sugar and half the water, and pour it hot to the lemon zest and juice and let it remain so till cold,or as long as convenient, to draw *he flavor. Then add the rest of the water, strain into a freezer, freeze as usual, and when it is pretty well frozen, whip the whites to a froth, mix them in, beat up and freeze again. 58 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S Cost of material—sugar 10, lemons 4, eggs 4, ice and salt 12; 30c for 3 pints or 8 saucers or 12 glasses, or 3c per order. 180—Small Cream Cakes. 8 ounces granulated sugar—1 cup. 5 eggs. 4 ounces butter, melted—£ cup. I cup milk. 12 ounces flour—3 cups. 1 teappoonful baking powder. Beat the sugar and eggs together a minute or two, add the melted butter, the milk, the powder and the flour. Slightly grease some baking pans and drop the batter by tablespoonfuls to form little round cakes. Sprinkle granulated sugar on top of each one. Bake in a slack oven. The cakes run out rather thin and delicate and should have plenty of room. Take off with a knife when cold and place two together with pastry cream spread between. Cost of material—sugar 6 eggs 10, butter 8, milk 1, flour 2, powder 1; 28c—pastry cream 8—36c for 36 cream cakes. 181—Pastry Cream. 1 cup milk—£ pint. 2 tablespoons sugar—2 ounces. 1 heaping tablespoon flour—1 ounce. 1 eins, twists or coffee cakes, according to size. 264-Cheapest Coffee Cake. 2 pounds light bread dough—1 cups large. 4 ounces sugar—\ cup. 4 ounces butter or lard—\ cup. 1 egg. (Not essential.) Take the dough at noon and mix in the ingredients all slightly warm. Knead it on the table with flour sufEcent. Set to rise until 4 o'clock. Knead it again by spreading it out on the table with the knuckles, folding over and repeating. Roll it out to sheets scarcely thicker than a pencil, place on baking pans, brush over with either water or melted lard or milk. Rise about an hour. Score the cakes with a knife point as you put them in the oven to prevent the crust puffing up. Bake about 15 minutes. One of the attractions of this plain cake is the powdered cinnamon ana su- gar sifted on top after baking, the cake being first brushed with sugar and water. Cut in squares if not baked in sheet cakes of right size for iale alrendy. Cost of material—dough 5, sugar 4, lard 5, egg, flour, cinnamon, 4; 18 cents for 3 pounds—enough for 8 five cent sheets or 36 round plain buns. 265—Stollen or Picnic Bread. \ cups water or milk. \ cup yeast. 1 teaspoon salt . 4 tablespoons sugar. \ cup butter. 2 eggs. 1 nutmeg. 1 cup raisius COOKING FOR PROFIT. 81 1 cup currants. Flour to make soft dough—3 pounds. Set sponge same as for bread with part of the flour, yeast and water at 8 in the morning. At twelve make it up into dough and work in all the other ingre- dients. Let lise until 4. Work it on the table, cut in 6 pieces, mould them up into round loaves, make a depression like a trough with the wrists along the middle, brush one side with butter and fold the two sides together like a large split roll of elongated shape. Kise an hour. Bake in a slack oven. Brush over with syrup when done. The same may be made by taking 4 or 5 cups of dough from the bread, already light and mixing the other ingredients in as for rusks and coffee cakes. Cost of material—dough 5, flour to work in 3, sugar 3, butter or lard 6, eggs 4, fruit and nutmeg 20; 41 cents, or 8c per pound. May be made in all sorts of shapes and baked in pans or molds to serve as a cheap sort of fruit cake. 266—Cheapest Gingerbread, Yeast- Raised. 4 cups light bread dough—2 pounds. 1 cup black molasses—10 oz. 1 cup, small, lard or butter—6 oz. 1 heaping teaspoon ground ginger. Flour to make it soft dough. An egg improves it but is not essen- tial. Work the ingredients all together at about six hours before baking time. Let rise 4 hours, knead it on the table, taking care the molasses in the dough does not cause you to take in too much flour and make the cake tough. Roll it out in sheets, tike up on the rolling pin and unroll on the baking pans. Brush over the top with water that has a little melted lard in it. Rise in the pans about an hour, bake 20 minutes. Brush over with syrup. Cm in square blocks for sale. Cost of material—dough 5, molasses 3, lard 8, ginger 2, flour 3; 21 cents for 4 pounds. Size of cakes according to lightess. Usually cut into 12 five cent blocks. 267—Currant Buns. No eggs required. Favorite sort and quickly made. This makes 20. 4 cups light dough—2 pounds. 1 small cup currants. \ cup softened butter. \ cup sugar. ft is soon enough to begin these 2 hours before baking time or before sup- per. Take the dough from the rolls say at 4 o'clock. Spread it out, strew the currants over and knead them ia Roll out the dough to \ inch sheet. Spread the butter evenly over it and the sugar on top of that. Cut in bands about as wide as your hand. Roll them up like roly-poly puddings. Brush these long rolls all over slightly with a little melted lard so that the buns will not stick to- gether in the pans. Then cut off in pieces about an inch thick. Place flat is a buttered pan,touching but not crowded. Rise nearly an hour, Bake 15 minutes. Brash over with sugar and water. Dredge sugar and cinnnmon over. Cost of material—dough 5, currants 3, butter 8, sugar and, cinnamon 4; 20 cents or 1 cent each. 268—Cinnamon Buns. The same as the preceding with the currants left out, and some ground cin- namon mixed with sugar that is spread over the sheet of dough instead. Tlit, buns can be uncoiled after baking on ac- count of the butter being rolled up in them. 269— Plain Doughnuts. 4 cups light bread dough—2 lbs. \ cup sugar. 2 ounces melted lard. Lard to fry. 82 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S Take the dough from the breakfast rolls, say at 9 in the morning, in Winter. In Summer the dough worked up at mid-day will do. Mix in the ingredients, let stand half an hour Work up stiff with flour sufficient, and set to rise about 4 hours. Then knead,and roll it out to a sheet . Brush over the whole sheet of dough with a very little melted lard. Cut out with a large biscuit cutter and cut the middle out with a small one. This makes rings, which must be set to rise on greased pans about A- hour, then dropped in hot lard. Sift sugar over when done. They cook in about 5 min- utes. Cost of material—dough 5, sug.ir and lard 5, lard to fry 8; 18 cents for about 24. 270—Bread Doughnuts. Only plain dough, or French roll dough. Cut out biscuit shapes, let rise, and fry. These are very often found at railroad lunch stands; nearly as cheap as bread and butter, and very saleable. 271—Bismarcks. Sort of doughnut with stewed fruit in- side. 4 cups light dough—2 pounds. 1 bastingspoon molasses. 1 bastingspoon sugar. 1 egg- 1 bastingspoon melted lard. Lcup stewed apple or other fruit. ird to fry. Put the light dough in a pan with all the other ingredients except the fruit, and work them together, and let stand A hour. Then add flour sufficient to make a soft dough of it and set it to rise about i hours. Then roll it out to a very thin sheet and brush over with water. Put a teaspoonful of fruit ut the right distances apart on one half of it, fold the other half over and cut with a large biscuit cutter so that the inclosed spots of fruit will be in the middle. Rise on pans like rolls nearly an hour, then drop in hot lard and fry to a fine brown color. Cost of material—dough 5, molasses and sugar 3, egg 2, stewed fruit 3, flour 2; lard to fry 8; 23 cen's for 20. Note—The mixture of molasses and sugar makes a better color on the dough- nut than sugar alone. Always, when making any kind of fried cake take care to have the sugar dissolved before it goes into the flour, for mixing dry sugar in is one of the main causes of such things soaking up grease. It is an improvement to dredge them with powdered sugar when done. 272—Fried Pies. A very good and saleable sort is pre- cisely like Bismarcks except the shape. Cut out large flats, wet the edge, put a spoonful of fruit in the middle and double the side over like any other sort of turn- over. Rise an hour and fry. Another sort of fried pie is made of common cov- ered pie paste, in shape like a turnover, with a little fruit inside. Close the edges well Fry as soon as made, light col- ored, in hot lard. The others are a kind of fried bread and light. These are fried pie paste, yellow and crisp. 273—Scotch Seed Cake. Takes five hours time to make, raise, and bake, using dough to begin with. 2 pounds light-bread dough—5 cups. 12 ounces sugar—1£ cups. 12 ounces of butter—1£ cups. 4 eggs. 1 teaspoon caraway seeds. 8 ounces flour—2 cups. Weigh out the dough at 7 in the morn- ing. Set it with the butter and sugar in a warm place. At about 9 work all together and beat in the eggs one at a time, and add the carraway. Give it another half hour to stand and become smooth, then add the flour and give the whole ten minutes beating. It makes a stiff batter—not doueh. COOKING FOR PROFIT. 83 ut it in two battered cake mould?. Rise about an hour. It should not be too light, bake as you would bread, in a slack oven, less than an heur. Cost of material—dough 5, sugar, seeds, and flour 10 butter 24, eggs 9; 48 cents for nearly 4 pounds or two 2-quart molds, or 12c per pound. Note—These raised cakes are like fresh bread, cannot be sliced till a day or two old without waste. 274—Scotch Tea Cakes. 2 pounds light-bread dough. 8 ounces sugar. 8 ounces lard. 1 teaspoonful carraway seeds. 1 pound flour. The difference between this and the preceeding kind is that this makes a soft dough, to be handled and kneaded like bread. It is less rich and requires no eggs. Make it up the same way or like the cheapest coffee cake and let rise in thin cakes on jelly cake pans. Brush over with melted lard when setting to rise. Score the tops with a knife point when they are light and bake about 15 minutes. If for sale brush over with syrup and dredge with sugar. Cost of material—25 cents for nearly 4 pounds—equal to about 3 dozen buns or 6 jelly-sheet cakes to cut . Good hot for supper. 275—New England Cake. Make the Scotch seed cake but with 1 pound of seeded or seedless raisins and half cupful of brandy and flavorings, and omit the carraway seeds. 276—Yeast-Raised Plum Cake. The slowest to rise. Use the liveli- est dough, and in winter it had better be saved over night and mixed up with the main part ot the ingredients; add the fruit next morning, and bake after din- ner. 2 pounds light bread dough. 1 pound black molasses and sugar, mixed. 1 pound butter. 6 eggs. 12 ounces flour. 1 ounce mixed ground spices. 1£ pounds seedless raisins. 1 pound currants. 8 ounces citron. Brandy, and lemon extract . Warm the dough and all the ingre- dients slightly. Mix well, except the fruit and brandy. Beat the batter, and set to rise in the mixing pan about 3 hours. Beat again and add the fruit, previously floured. Line the moulds with buttered paper, half rill and set to rise again about 2 hours. Bake from one hour to two, according to size. Large cakos should have a coating of paper tied outside the moulds to protect the crust during the two hours baking. These cakes should not be turned out of the moulds till at least one day old. Cost of material—dough 5, molasses and sugar II, butter 30, eggs 12, flour and spices 8, raisins 30, currants 10, citron 20, brandy and extract 12; $1, 38 for about 8 pounds or two 2-quart moulds, or about 18c per pound. Note—All of the foregoing articles are made lipht with yeast and all are made by biking a piece of dough that is already light either from the family bread pan or bakers trough. A very good sort of apple dumpling is cheaply made in the same way of the same dough as for doughnuts, the dumplings allowed to remain in the pans long enough for the dough to become light before baking. The dumplings like the doughnuts and all other varieties must have a alight brushing over of melted lard to prevent a crust forming on them and cracking open while set away to risa 277-Rusks. These are slices of various sorts of cake dried in the oven something like dry toast 84 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S The coffee cakes previously described, if baked in loaves and sliced when stale make the best, of rusks and for this reason perhaps, have gained the name of rusks when hot and in fancy shapes. But the name is not correct. They are then cakes or buns. The following are special sorts: 278—Marlborough Rusks. Make the common sponge cake—called eight-egg sponge cake in the index—and add to the mixture along with the flour one ounce carraway seeds. Bake in long narrow moulds. When a day old, slice and brown the slices in the oven. These crisped slices can be kept a long time, and serve much the same purpose as sweet crackers. Cost of material—32 cents for 32 slices, or according to size. 279—Anisette Rusks. 8 ounces granulated sugar—1 cup. 10 eggs. 4 ounces almonds. 6 ounces flour. £ ounce anise seed. Mince the almonds as fine as possible, without removing the skins. Mix them and the anise beed with the flour dry. Beat the sugar and eggs together about 20 minutes or until quite light, as if for sponge cake, and lightly stir in the flour etc Bake in long and narrow moulds and when a day old slice and brown the slices on both sides in the oven. Cost of material—39 cents. 280—Russian Wine Rusks. Make with the s ime care in beating the eggs and cutting in the flour lightly that is needed to make sponge cake good. 14 ounces granulated sugar. 12 eggs. 8 ounces almonds. 8 ounces graham flour. 1 teaspoon almond extract. Crush the almonds with the rolling- pin on the table without removing the skins, and then mix them with the gra- ham flour, which should have the coarsest bran sifted away before weighing. Beat the sugar and eggs together in a cool place about 20 minutes or until light and thick. Stir in the flavoring and flour and almonds. Bake in long, narrow molds and when a day old slice and brown the slices in the oven. Cost of material—sugar 10, eggs 25, almonds 20, flour 2, extract 1; 58 cents for 2£ pounds. Note.—Rusks of the preceding sorts may be seen in the windows of many of the best confectioneries. They are as expensive as cakes and are sold accor- dingly. The way of mixing the sponge cake batter for the two foregoing is for one person working alone. The eggs and sugar can be made perfectly light by sufficient beating. If it is preferred to separate the eggs and have the whites aud yolks and sugar beaten separately by two persons, observe to mix in the whipped whites last of all, after the flour and all else. 281—Sponge Cake Squares. 14 ounces sugar—-2 cups. 8egg& 1 cup water. 18 ounces flour—4 rounded cups. 1 heaping teaspoon baking powder. Separate the eggs, put the sugar and water with the yolks and beat up until light and thick. Mix the powder with the flour. Whip up the whites. Stir the flour into the yolk mixture and then the whites. As soon as they are fairly mixed in out of sight it is ready. Spread it -£ inch deep in a greased baking pan. Dredge a very little powdered sugar over the surface and bake about 10 min- utes. When cold cut it into 10 or 12 square blocks. Cost of material—30c. COOKING FOR PROFIT. 85 282—Small Sponge Cakes. Either the foregoing or the other sponge cake mixture baked in any sort of gem pans or small oblong molds. They are among the articles that sell in large quantities when well made, and being light are profitable, h ey may be varied by being frosted on top or in squares in the pans. 283—Wafer Jumbles 14 ounces sugar—2 cups. 14 ounces butter—2 cups. 11 eggs. 18 ounces flour—4 rounded cups. Cream the butter and sugar together, beat in the eggs 2 at a time, add the flour, beat well. Put into a ladj finger sack or paper cornet. Make rings on baking pans very slightly greased, and bake in a slack oven. They run out to a flat and thin shape and become crisp and brown. Need careful baking. If the first tried loses the ring form altogether add an ounce or two more flour. Cost of material—sugar 10, bntter 30^ eggs 22, flour 4: 66 cents for 3J pounds. 284—Drop Cakes. 1 pound sugar—2 cups. < 10 eggs. 10 ounces butter—1 large cup. £ pint milk or water. 4 teaspoons baking powder. 2 pounds flour—8 level cups. Beat the sugar and eggs together a few minutes, in a good sized pan, as if baking sponge cake. Melt the butter in a little saucepan, beat it in and the milk, powder and flour. Beat up well Drop spoonfuls on baking pans very slightly greased and bake in a moderate oven. They rise in the middle cone shaped For variations sprinkle currants on top, or a shred of citron, or gravel sugar. The latter is crushed loaf sugar sifted through the holes of a colander and the dust sifted away. Cost of material—sugar 10, eggs, 20, butter 20, powder 4, flour 6; 60 cents for 4J pounds plain—about 80 to 100 according to size and lightneps. 285—German Almond Cake. A cheap and simple sort of lunch cake to be cut in square blocks Only good while fresh. 8 ounces sugar—1 cup. 4 ounces butter—\ cup. 6 eggs. 1 pint milk or water—2 cups. 3 large teaspoons baking powder 1£ pounds flour—6 cups. 2 ounces almonds. Little salt . Mix up like pound cake by creaming the sugar and butter together, adding the eggft two at a time, the milk and then the flour with powder and salt . Spread it \ inch deep in a greased baking pan and bake about 30 minutes in a slack oven. Mince the almonds fine, after scalding and peeling them. When the cake is done brush over the top with syrup and sprinkle the minced almonds upon it . Cut in 16 square blocks. Cost ot material—40 cents for 3£ pounds. 286—Corn Rolls. The bakery name for them. Also known as corn gems and muffins. They are in demand like cream rolls and gra- ham with coffee or milk. 8 ounces white corn meal—1£ cups. 2 ounces butter or lard—large egg size. \ pint boiling water—1 cup . \ cups cold milk. 4 ounces flour—1 cup. 1 tablespoon sugar. 2 eggs. Salt. 1 teaspoon baking powder. Sift the meal into a pan, place the butter or lard in the middle and pour in the boiling water and mix up Throw in the salt and sugar. Add cold milk and flour, then the eggs and powder and 86 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETIES beat up with the egg whisk. The mix- ture is thin like batter cakes. Make deep gem pans hot without greasing them, so that they hiss when the batter is poured in then there will not be any black marks on the rolls. Bake about 15 or 20 minutes. Cost of material—12 cents for 24 to 36 according to size—sell same as wheat rolls, 3 for 5c with \ oz butter. 287—Macaroon Cake. A thin sheet of cake baked first, then either spread or striped with cocoanut macaroon mixture, baked lightly and finished with spots of jelly. For the cake: , 8 ounces sugar—1 cup. 4 ounces butter—\ cup. 3 eggs. £ cup milk or water. 1 large teaspoon baking powder. Flour to roll out, or about 4 cups. Warm the butter and sugas slightly, stir them together, add the eggs, milk, pow- der and flour. Work the dough on the table and roll it out thin, Bake on a shallow pan to a light color. For the macaroon paste: 8 ounces sugar—1 cup. 2 whites of eggs. 4 ounces desiccated cocoanut. Little lemon extract. Stir the sugar and whites together in a small bowl rapidly for about 5 min- utes. Add the extract and the cocoa- nut. When mixed place it in cords across the sheet of cake and bake again in a slack oven until the macaroon on top has a light brown color Place fruit jelly in the hollows between the ridges Cost of material—43 cents plain— with jelly 5 cents more—for nearly 3 pounds. Cut in 18 or 20 squares. 288—Boston Cream Puffs or Cream Cakes. Sbmmon in the baker's shops, consist- ing of two parts, the hollow shell made with a cooked paste not sweetened and a thick custard for filling. This makes about 20. \ pint water—1 cup. 4 ounces lard or butter—£-cup. 4 ounces flour—1 cup. 5 eggs. Little salt when lard is used. Set the water on to boil with the lard in it . Put in the flour dry as it Is and all at once, and stir the mixture over the fire about five minutes or until it has be- come a smooth, well cooked paste. Take it off and add the eggs one at a time and beat in each one well before adding the next . Give the paste a thorough beat- ing against the side of the pan for finish. Drop portions size of an egg on ba- king pans very slightly greased and bake in a moderate oven about 20 min- utes. Let the puffs bake slowly at last and dry so they will not fall when taken out. Cut a slit in the side and fill with pastry cream by means of a teaspoon Note.—The eggs must be added to the cooked paste before it becomes cold, oth- erwise they will be a failure. It is bet- ter to use light weight of shortening and full weight of flour, than to risk disap- pointment by making them too short to retain their hollow form. It will be found when the first pan of puffs do not rise perfectly that the paste can be much improved by more beating. Make them small for profit but large for show if you want to please the party. 289—Pastry Cream or Custard For Cream Cakes. 1 pint milk or water—2 cups. 4 ounces sugar—\ cup. 2 ounces flour—\ cup. 2 eggs. Very little salt. 1 tablespoon lemon extract, or vanilla. Boii the milk—a spoonful of the sugar in it -will prevent scorching—mix ihe sugar and flour together dry and very thoroughly, drop them into the boiling COOKING FOR PEOFIT 87 milk and beat rapidly with an egg whisk. When it has thickened add the eggs and let cook slowly at fcack of the range about 10 minutes longer. Flavor when cool. The foregoing quantity is right for fill- ing the 20 puffs of the preceding receipt. Cost of cream puffs—eggs 14, butter 8, sugar 3, extract 3, flour 2; 30 cents for from 15 to 25 according to size. Large ones sell at 5c each. 290—Corn Starch Cream Puffs. Lightest thinest shells and in other re- spects the finest. 1 cup milk—£ pint. \ cup butter—3 ounces. 4 heaping tablespoons starch—four ounces. 5 eggs. Boil hilf the milk with the butter in it. Mix the starch free from lumps with the other half. Pour both together and let cook to a smooth paste. Add the eggs one at a time after removing it from the fire—and beat thoroughly. Drop spoonfuls size of guinea eggs on baking pans very slightly greased and bake in a moderate oven about 20 min- utes. This makes 20 to 25. Fill with the following: 291—Corn Starch Pastry Cream. Note—The preceding kind of pastry cream makes a good lemon creum pie if a small lemon is added to it . Grate the rind and squeeze in the juice. Cost of corn starch puffs and cream filling—27 cents for 20 to 25. 292—Transparent Puffs. 1 cup water—\ pint. Butter size of an egg—\ ounces. 3 tablespoons starch—3 ounces. 2 whole eggs and 3 whites. Make the same way as other cream puffs. The use of them is to make puffs different from other peoples and for the following sort. 293—Cocoanut Eclairs- Make 20 cream puffs of either of the three mixtures above directed and take care not to have the paste too soft ifhrough the eggs being very large or the flour scant, as these should rise round and hollow, and not run out wide on the pans. When baked have some grated cocoa- nut mixed with granulated sugar ready on a dish and roll the puffs in it, giving a good coating. Set them in a warm place to dry. If you use desiccated cocoanut, mix it with syrup hot. 294—Cream Puff Tarts. 1 cup water or m:lk—\ pint. 3 tablespoons sugar—3 ounces. 1 heaping tablespoon starch —1 ounce Butter size of a walnut. 1 egg, (2 yolks are better.) Lemon or vanilla flavoring. Boil the water or milk with the sugar in it . Mix the starch with a little water extra; pour it in the saucepan and stir up. Then before it has boiled again, add the egg and butter and stir until the mixture becomes quite thick—per- haps ten minutes. Flavor when cool. Fill the puff with it by means of a tea- spoon, the puffs being cut open at the side. Line 20 common patty pans with a very thin bottom of good pie pasle or sweet'tart paste and put in each one a spoonful of cream puff mixture—the same as for Boston cream puffs—spread it evenly, then bake about 20 minutes. Have some syrup ready and brush over the tops and dredge with either cocoa- nut or chopped almonds. They are risen high and hollow like cream pufis in the baking aud this surface dredging is to be done while they are hot. After tbat raise one end with the point of a knife and insert a teaspoonful of any kind of pastry cream. Cost of material—about 2 cents each. P 88 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES 295—Chocolate Pastry Cream. 2 cups milk—1 pint. \ cup sugar—4 ounces. 2 heaping tablespoons flour—2 ounces. \ cup gratsd chocolate—1 ounce. Butter size guinea egg—1 ounce. 1 egg (2 yolks are better). 1 teaspoon vanilla extract. Boil the milk, hutter and grated choc- olate together, stirring with an egg-beater to prevent burning. Mix sugar and flour together dry in a pan and when well mingled beat them into the boiling milk, then set the saucepan on the side of the range. Mix the yolks well with a spoon- ful of milk, add them to the other and let cook until well thickened. Flavor with vanilla when cold. Use it to fill chocola'e cream puffs same way as plain pastry custard. Cost of material—13 cents for cupfnls. Note—The foregoing chocolate cream makes excellent cream pies or tarts, the pie crust to be baked first then the filling put in and frosting over the top. The common unsweetened chocolate is in- tended. When the sweet chocolate is used a larger proportion will be needed. 296—Chocolate Eclairs. Bake cream puffs in long or ovel shape, put in a small amount of cream filling, then dip the tops in a chocolate icing made of 1 cup sugar. 4 tablespoons water. 2 ounces common chocolate. Grate the chocolate and set it on with the sugar and water to melt gradually in a place not hot enough to burn it. When it has at length become boiling hot beat it to thoroughly mix, and dip in the ar- ticles to be glazed while it is hot . May be used also to spread upon cakes. 297—French Ceam Puffs. All three of the puff mixtures preced- ing are unsweetened and cook light colored; this contains a little sugar and is consequently easy to burn. 1 cup water—\ pint. \ cup butter—3£ ounces. 2 tablespoons sugar—\ ounces. 1 cup flour—5 ounces. 3 eggs. 1 teaspoon extract vanilla. Boil the water with the butter and sugar iu it, in a deep bowl-shaped sauce- pan large enough to finish the paste in. Put in the flour all at once and stir until you have a stiff, smooth paste, or about 5 minutes. Take it from the fire, drop in one egg at a time and beat it in thor- oughly before adding another. When all are in give the paste a very thorough beating against the side of the saucepan. Drop pieces in either round or egg shapes on a baking pan very slightly greased. Bake them about 20 minutes in a mode- rate oven. They rise rounded and hol- low. Cut a slit in the side and fill with any sort of pastnv cream or with fruit jelly J 298—Coffee Pastry Cream. 1 cup clear very strong coffee. 1 cup cream. \ cup sugar—4 ounces. \ cup flour—2 ounces. 2 eggs—(4 yolks make it better.) Set the coffee and cream on to boil. Mix the sugar and flour together dry then drop them into the boiling liquid and beat up rapidly with an egg beater. (This is the quickest and easiest way of thickening all flour custards and pudding sauces). When it has thickened add the eggs slightly beaten and cook 5 min- utes more. Use to fill cream puffs or cakes or tarts, or make coffee cream pie with frosting on top. Cost of French cream puffs—the paste 16, coffee pastry cream 16; 32 cents for 16. With jelly for filling about the same. Large puffs sell 5c each. May be brushed over the top with sugar slightly wetted, and then dried. COOKING FOR PROFIT. 89 299—Cream Cake or Washington Pie. Consists of two layers of cake with pastry cream spread between—like jelly cake—and either powdered sugar or plain icing on top. For the cake take 1 cup sugar—8 ounces. 5 eggs. $- cup butter—4 ounces. \ cup water—large measure. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 3 cups flour. Put the sugar, eggs and water into a pan and beat them together a minute or two. Have the butter melted and stir it in, then the powder and flour. Beat all well together. Bake thinly spread on jelly cake pans or on a large baking pan to cut in squares. There are cheaper mixtures that can be used for the same purpose but this if well made with suffi- cient powder rises very light and makes a large amount. Spread the same pastry cream between that is directed for cream puffs. Cost of material—cake 26, pastry cream 13 39 cents. 300—Napoleon Cake. Consists of two layers of puff paste baked separately, pastry cream spread upon one the other placed on top, and icing sugar slightly wetted spread upon that. Make puff paste with three quarters of a pound of butter to a pound of flour. Roll it and fold it only 6 times instead of 7 as for tarts. Cut in two, roll out thin, place the sheets of paste on two baking pans and after baking light col- ored place one on the other prepared as above directed. The cora starch pastry cream may be used. The glaze for the top is the same as pearl glaze for angel food. Cut in squares when finiehed. Cost of material—puff paste 24, pas- try cream 13, glace 3; 40 cents, or same as Washington pie. Can be cut in 8 or 10 ten-cent squares, according to light- ness. Note—In order to handle sheets of puff paste without breaking it is neces- sary to roll up the raw paste on the rolling-pin and unroll it on the pan it is to be baked on, never touching it with the hands. Take up the sheet of paste after baking by sliding two broad knives under, or paddles made of shingles. 301—Saratoga Cake. Bake two sheets of puff paste the same as for Napoleon cake. Spread fruit jelly, preserves or some good fruit stewed down rich upon one sheet, place the oth- er sheet on top and cover that with frost- ing, the same as for lemon pies. Cut in squares. Cost of material—about 40c, or ac- cording to kind of jelly or jam used. 302—Florentine Pastry. Consists of a bottom crust of rich pie paste in a broad baking pan with jam or good fruit stewed down with sugar, baked in it, and a covering of frosting the same as for lemon pie or strawberry meringue well sprinkled over with shred almonds and slightly baked. 303—EnglislTFriiit Pies. These sell well at the bakeries. Take deep dishes such as are used to dish up vegetables in at dinner, but about 6 or 7 inch size, nearly fill with any kind of berries iu season, cover with sufficient sugar and put ou a thin top crust of good short paste. Cut around the edges, make a small hole in the middle of the lid. Bake about 15 minutes. There is no bottom crust and all the fruit juice is retained in full flavor. Cost of material—crust each \ cents, berries average including straw- berries 4c. Sell at 10c each. 304—Iced Coffee. Served in a tall glass like lemonade, with two straws and shaved ice in it. For a single glass take 2 large teaspoons powdered sugar. 00 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL OAZETIE'S 4 tablespoons rich milk. A small cup coffee. Some shaved ice. Shake up with a tin punch miser over the glass (bir-keepers fashion) and serve with the foam on top. The foaming ap- pearance may be increased by one raw egg to a pint beaten up in the milk that is used, and gives it a cream color. Cost of material—2 cents per glass. OYSTER BAY. 305—Raw Oysters—Half Shell. Open the oysters as they are called for, loosen from the shell, serve in the best shell with as much of their own liquor as can be saved, ranged on a plate with half a lemon in the center. Shred cabbage, crackers, butter and table sau- ces go free. 306—Raw Oysters—Bulk. "Counts" are the largest—same thing as "Saddle Rockp." "Selects" next lnr- gest. Serve a dozen on the plate. Lem- on, if called for, in a small glass dish at the side. Cost—according to the price of oys- ters—with oysters at $1,00 per 100— oysters 12, lemon £, crackers 1, butter 2, tomato ketchup etc., 1A; 17 cents a dozen. Small oysters only half the price. 307—Oyster Stev It is a dozen medium oysters with a pint or less of milk and perhaps a small allowance of butter; with crackers, but- ter and pickles on the table. Cook the oysters and milk in separate saucepans. Dip the oysters from the saucepan into the bowl, add a ladleful of milk and a small piece of fresh butter. Serve crack- ers, butter and shred cabbage separately with the stew. Cost of material—oysters 7, milk 3, table extras 4; 14 cents. Note—Oysters do not always curdle the milk when boiled in it, but there is always a danger that they may, so the rule is not to run any risk. Besides, to cook the oysters in the milk although good for flavor, always makes a dingy looking stew with a scum ou top. To obtain the best quality and appearance boil some oyster liquor separately and keep it ready for orders. As it reaches boiling point the scum on top can be skimmed off and after that pour it through a fine strainer into a clean sauce- pan, and you have the oyster essence clear and ready for use without detri- ment to the appearances. 308— Plain Stew. The oysters cooked as above with the liquor only served with them, and no milk. Nora—\% \B wjtn cooking an oyster as with cooking an egg. It may be either soft boiled or hard boiled, only there is a difference that an oyster boiled hard is spoiled. To cook oysters for stews set some of the liquor that has been pre- viously boiled and strained as directed above, on the iange in a little saucepan and drop in the oysters with afork. Add a pinch of salt and pepper, shake them back and forth while heating and as soon as the liquor fairly boils they are done. Time about 3 minutes for one stew. 309—Dry Stew. The same as plain stew but served without the liquor. Have a spoonful of fresh butter ready melted at a conven- ient place and pour it to the oysters in the bowl after they have been dipped up out of their liquor with a strainer. COOKING FOR PROFIT. 91 310—Boston Fancy Stew. Make a milk stew in the same style, and a thin slice of buttered toast. Use a broad and shallow bowl. Put the buttered toast in the bowl, dish the oys- ters (soft cooked) on the toast and pour the liquor in at the side, enough to make it float. Cost of material—12 large oysters 12, milk 4, buttered toast 1, table extras 3; 20 cents. 311—Box Stew. The richest stew that can be made and with the very largest oysters, called Fulton Market box oysters. Prepare a square of buttered toast the same as for Boston fancy and put it in a hot bowl. Take a bastingspoon of cream and put it into a bastingspoon of clear oyster liquor that has been boiled before, and add an ounce of best butter. Cook the oysters in another saucepan. When soft done dish them on the toast in the bowl and pour the cream liquor around. Cost of material—12 extra fine oys- ters 24, cream 2, butter and toast 4, table extras, lemon etc., 5; 35 cents. Sells at 60 cents. 312—Oysters Sawteed in Butter. Not necessary to use eggs. Drop the oysters into a plate of cracker meal and give them a good coating. Be careful not to rub it off as it will not stick a second time Drop an ounce of butter in the frying pan, and when melted lay in the oysters close together. Cook over a brisk fire to get brown on one side with- out hardening them. Lay a small plate upside down on the oysters, turn over the pan, then slide the cake of oysters from the plate into the pan again without letting them break apart, and brown the other side. Serve on the plate set in another plate. Ornament with lemon and parsley. There are oval shaped pans for such sendees as this, to be in shape for a platter. Cost of material—12 medium oysters 7, butter 2, cracker meal 1, lemon and parsley garnish 1, table extras 4, 15 cents. 313— Fried Oysters. Single Breaded. Dry the oysters by pressing with a napkin. Drop them into beaten egg, in which is a little salt, and out of that into craker meal. Give them a good coating by pressing, with care not to rub, or leave a bare place for the grease to get in. Drop them singly into a fry- ing pan of hot lard. Fry brown in 2 or 3 minutes. Dish neatly in the middle of a hot platter with a piece of lemon and sprigs of parsley Cost of material—oysters 12, eggs 3, meal 1, lard to fry 2, lemon and parsley garnish 1, table extras 4; 23 rents. Note—The way of frying oysters suc- cessfully without the use of eggs has been fully explained in a former receipt. It needs more care than when eggs are used, but may effect a great saving in the season when eggs are dearest. Even with that fried oysters are expensive over the other methods of cooking be- cause of the lard destroyed. At the end of a meal the craker sediment will have mado the lard used dark and unfit for further use, and if clarified of that there still remains a sort of mucilage from the oysters that makes the lard boil over like butter melting, and almost use- less. Consequently the charge for fries is, and has to be, higher than for other styles. 314—Fried Oysters. Double Breaded Out of their own liquor into cracker- meal, coat well, dip in beaten egg and then in cracker-meal again. Fry 4 or 5 minutes. Oysters look twice as large as they really are, when double breaded. Cost.—They take up more egg but the expense is made up in the apparent 92 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES increase in the size, and when they are carefully cooked of a light color and crisp the double breading is preferred by most customers. 315—Broiled Oysters, Bread-Crumbed The original meaning of breading ha* nearly been forgotten, so much better for most purposes is the meal of crushed and sifted crackers than grated dry bread. But the smallness of the demand for breaded oysters broiled—a way that over the w.iter is considered most delicate—is proof that cracker-meal is not the thing for it, Oysters breaded in cracker-meal, then broiled, unless they are deluged with butter, are more like discolored pieces of buckskin than anything eatable, Grate a stale loaf of bread or else mince the thin slices extremely fine with a knife. Shake the oysters about in a little beaten egg, dip them in the bread crumbs and gently press a coating on both eides. It is better to let them lie in the crumbs awhile if there is time. Brush the wire oyster broiler, with a brush dipped in butter,place the oysters, shut down the other side and as soon as the egg is set with the heat of the bright coals baste the oysters on both sides with the same brush in butter. Get a toast-brown on both sides without cook- ing the oysters too much. Serve on a dish the same as tried oysters, with a piece ofJemon. Cost of material—oysters 12, bread 1, egg 2, butter 3, table extras 4: 22 cents. Note.—Where silver-plated griddles and silver wire I roilers are used it is Eracticable to dispense with the butter asting altogether, and prevent sticking by rubbing the bars with chalk Some of the greatest restaurants of the two continents have bad a sort of specialty in this line, and probably proved not only the desirableness but the real econ- omy of the mode. 316—Plain Broiled Oysters on Toast. Take the largest oysters >btainable. Brush the wire oyster broiler with soft- ened butter, lay in the oysters and broil over a hot fire 2 or 3 minuten, basting once on each side with the butter brush. Dish side by side on one long slice of buttered toast in a dish. Garnish with lemon and parsley. Cost.—Largest oysters one dozen 24, butter 2, toast 1, garnish 3, table extras 6; 35 cents—Sells at 50c, or ac- cording to grade of oysters. There is no satisfaction in plain broiling small oysters. 317—Oysters Broiled in Bacon. Dredge some large oysters with pep- per and squeeze the juice of a lemon over them. Cut large slices of fat bacon as thin as possible. Roll up two oysters together in each slice, run a skewer through diag- onally and put six such rolls on each skewer crowded together to allow for shrinkage. Bake in the top of the oven for a few minutes, the skewers resting on the edge of a pan with the oysters raised above the drippings. Finish on the broiler. Serve on the skewers on buttered toast in a dish, and if common skewers are used slip a ring of friDged paper ou the end. Cost of material—12 large oysters 15, lib bacon 15, toast 2, lemon 2, table extras and potatoes 6; 40 cents. 318—Steamed Oysters. Shells. Scrub the oysters clean in water. Place the deep shell side down in the steamer and steam them about 5 min- utes. Take off the top shell and save as much of the liquor as possible with the oyster in the lower one. Serve on a platter without seasoning or any addition, except lemon in quarters. COOKING FOB PROFIT. 93 319—Oysters—Shell Roast. A bright and glowing charcoal fire is requisite for this. The oyster ranges are nearly all broiler and the bare are near the coals. Scrub the dirt from the shells of the oysters before cooking, with a brush in water. Lay them on the broiler, flat side down, and endeavor to get the shell so hot as to slightly color the oyster. When the shell begins to open turn it over. Dish up in the deep shell, the other removed entirely, and if too dry pour over each one a small spoon- ful of hot oyster liquor and butter mixed. Serve a dozen on a platter, a halt on a fish plate, with lemon. Cost—12 oysters 12, lemon 1, ta'de extras 4; 17 cents. 320—Oysters—Fancy Roast. Cut two slices of butterea toast to fit a medium sized platter, when placed end to end, or cut fancy shapes of toast that when placed together will form a star shape, Roast the oysters iu the shells. Take them out when done and place them on the toast and pour some hot oyster liquor mixed with cream over the toast in the dish. Garnish with parsley. Cost—oysters 12, toast 2, cream 2, table extras and garnishing 4; 20 cents. 321—Oysters—Pan Roast. An imitation of the shell roast. 1. Put 12 or 13 oysters in a bright pie pan, with their liquor. Dredge with sait and pepper very sparingiy. Drop in some small lumps of butter and bake on the top shelf of a hot oven from 3 to 5 minutes. Slide them right side up into a hot dish, and garnish with 1 or 2 quarters of lemon. 2. A verj common way in restau- rants is to merely stew the oysters in a bright tin pan holding only about a pint, slightly season, and serve them in the same pan set in a plate. And, fur- ther, iu the same style neat lids are used that fit the pans, to be placed when the oysters are done and sent in so. There is no difference, except in the im- agination, betwixt that and a dry stew. 322—Oysters in a Loaf. Take a loaf that has been baked in a tin mold, such as the bakers sell; cut off the top crust and lay it aside, remove most of the inside crumb, then cut the edge into ornamental notches or saw tooth fashion all around. Spread a little soft butter inside with the back of a spoon and set the loaf in the oven to toast. The top generally gets browned enough by the time the butter inside is hot. Make an oyster stew in the usual way but dredge in a few fine bread crumbs to partially thicken it. Pour into the hot crisped loaf on a dish, no cover. 323—Scalloped Oysters. In a small deep dish or pan. Mince some slices of good bread extremely fine with your large knife and mix in about a third as much cracker meal. Cover the bottom of the individual dish with these mixed crumbs, and on them lay a dozen oysters. Dredge with salt and pepper, and drop butter in small bita Cover thinly with crumbs. Have it slightly rounded up in the middle. Bake on the middle shelf one minute, or until a light toait brown, then draw it to the front and baste the top with oys- ter liquor hot and with a little butter melted in it. Bake a few minutes. The object is to get a good bake on top without cooking the oysters too bard. Serve in the same dish set in another one. Cost of material—oysters 12, bread 1, butter 2, table extras 4, 19 cents. Note.—The appearance is much im- proved if the oysters are scalloped in metal shells made for the purpose, either stamped heavy tin or silver plated. Proceed the same as with dishes. 94 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES 324—Scalloped Oysters on Half Shell. Ouster shells of good shape have to b? selected and kept for the purpose. One large or two small oysters in each may be scalloped this way. Dredge fine bread crumbs in the shell, put in the oyster, cover with crumbs and bake set in a baking pan on the top shelf. YVhen lightly browned moisten the tops with melted fresh butter and seasoned oys- ter liquor. Serve the moment they are done, or the hot shells will make the oysters cook too much. There is another way of scalloping them in sauce as directed for clams. 325—Scalloped Oysters for a Party. Baked on a platter of a size according to number. Put a border of mashed potato forced like a thick cord through a paper corset all around the inner rim of the platter to hold in the liquor. The inside scooped out of baked potatoes is often the avail- able thing for this. Cover the bottom of the dish with finely minced or grated bread crumbs. Scald the oysters slightly in a saucepan and then place them close together on the layer of crumbs. Continue until the dish is piled up in the middle and rounded, with the butter, salt and pep- per as in the preceding receipt, then mix the oyster liquor with a little milk and strain over the top. Wipe the edges of the dish dry. Bake to get a quick brown on top, on the top shelf of the ovea Cost of material—each dish of oue dozen 18 or 20 cents. 326- -Scalloped Oysters for Hotel Dinner. The thing to be guarded against in the getting it all bread and dry and hard and for that reason uneatable These proportions make it right. 8 dozen oysters and their liquor. 12 ounces 2—cups butter. 2 pound fine bread and cracker crumbs mixed. 1 pint milk. Pepper and salt. Use a shallow 4-quart milk pan. Spread a little of the butter all over the bottom and cover that with a layer of the mixed bread crumbs. Scald the oysters in their liquor just enough to make them shrink a little and place half of them close together on the layer of crumbs. Then more crumbs, butter dropped about in small pieces, pepper and salt; then the rest of the oys- ters and cover with the remaining bread crumbs and butter. Mix the milk with the oyster liquor, strain into the pun, moistening the top all over. Bake from 20 to 30 minutes. Cost of material—with oysters at $1, per 100—$1,40 for 16 dishes, or about 9 cents per plate. 327—Oyster Patties—White. The meaning is that the oysters are in a white sauce, for they may be either white, yellow, or browa The same care Hint is needed to make a good stew is necessary also to make patties delicious, that is, not to cook the oysters long be- fore they are wanted and not to let them get done too much. If the rich liquor of cream or milk and butter described for the "box stew" were thickened with flour just to the right point, then the oysters lightly cooked in another saucepan, dip- ped up and put into the sauce the result would be reached of preparing the oys ters to fill any kind of patty cases with the white preparation, if thickened by adding raw yolks of eggs it makes the yellow sauce, if with butter and flour baked brown together and the oysters lightly cooked, stirred in at last it makes the light brown kind. To begin at the beginning take for 12 patties. 1 cupful of oysters. 1 cup milk. Butter size of a guinea egg. 1 taplespoon flour. COOKING FOR PROFIT. 95 Cayenne, salt. 1 teaspoon minced parsley. 1 pound of puff paste. Make the puff paste shells first by roll- ing out to a quarter inch thickness, cut- ting out with an oval cutter and marking the inside lid, with a smaller cutter as previously directed for cherry tartlets, bake carefully in a brisk oven and when done lift out the center with a knife point. Set the oysters over the fire to scald in their own liquor, shake about until they are set, but take off before they boil. Mix the butter and flour together in a sancepan big enough to hold all the rest, and when it bubbles up on the range be- gin stirring in the milk, thus making a thick white sauce. Let it boil up, stir- ring constantly. Season with cayenne and salt . Take the oysters out of their liquor and put them in white sauce, and then stir in a little chopped parsley. Fill the patties, put on the lids and serve. Cost of material—oysters 10, milk 1, butter 2, seasonings 1, puff paste 10; 24 cents, or 2 cents each. 328—Oyster Patties—Yellow. Read the foregoing directions. When the thick creajm sauce has been made beat up the yolk of an egg with a spoon- ful of clear oyster liquor and stir it in, and add the juice of a quarter of a lemon. 329—Oyster Patties—Blown. Put an ounce of butter and an ounce of flour together in a small saucepan or pint cup and stir them over the fire until they are light brown, like the crust of a well baked loaf of bread in color, or else, if time cannot be spared to continue the stirring, set it in the oven, for none of it should be burnt black. When done stir in gradually \ cup oyster liqnor and about half that quantity of milk, and salt and pepper to season, and at last a table- epoonful of essence of anchovies. Pass the sauce through a gravy strainer. Scald the oysters separately and put them in the brown eauce. Use to fill the voLau-vcnt patty cases ol the fore going receipts. Note.—The exercise of judgment is required to have the sauces for such pat- ties as are made by filling pastry shells as above of just the right thickness not to run out and leave the oysters bare and dry inside, and yet not so thick as to make the mixture a lump of paste. The addition of the juicy oysters to the sauce often thins it down to a degree that is a source of disappointment to an inex- perienced person. Moreover, the addi- tion of yolks of eggs to the yellow kind will not thicken them unless the boiling be stopped immediately after. 330—Oyster Patties, Household Style. Provide 12 deep tin patty pans hold- ing each about \ cup; 1 cupful oysters. 1 cup milk. 1 large tablespoon flour. Butter size of a walnut. Pepper and salt. 1 pound short pie paste. Boil the milk, thicken it with the flour mixed up with a little milk cold, add a little salt and the butter and beat until the butter is melted. Roll out the common pie paste very thin, cut out with a large biscuit cutter and line the patty pans, put a few raw oysters in each, sprinkle with pepper and salt, nearly fill with the thick white sauce previously made, cut out more flats from the sheet of paste and put them on as lids. Brush over with mixed yolk of egg and water and bake. Serve hot with a sprig of parsley on top for ornament. Cost of material—from 1£ to 2 cents each, according to size and richness. 331—Oyster Soup—Common Lunch. To make to order have ready some boiling milk and serve in a bowl. 96 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 1 pint milk. 6 oysters scalded in their own liquor, and the liquor strained into the bowl first. Crackers and table sauces go free. Price in restaurants 15c. Cost of material—Oysters 5, milk 3, table extras 3; 11 cents. 332—Oyster Soup—Good Hotel. 1 quart "solid meat" oysters. 1 quart clear soup stock. 1 quart milk. Butter she of an egg. 1 teaspoon each of salt and pepper. 2 heaping tablespoons crushed oyster crackers. The stock is used on the principle that the liquor that meat has been boiled in is better than water. It should be chick- en or veal broth slightly seasoned with celery and parsley and other vegetables, and should be taken from the top, clear without sediment. The things to be guarded against are, not to get the milk curdled by boiling it with the oysters, and to avoid having the scum from the oyster liquor floating on top of the soup. To get out of the trouble shiftless cooks sometimes throw the liquor away and wash off the oysters; ot course that makes the soup poor. Half an hour before dinner time set the quart of stock on the range in one saucepan and the milk in another. Pour the oysters into a colander set in another saucepan on the table and when the soup stock boils pour a few ladlefuls into the oysters, stir them and let them drain. Then set the oyster liquor thus ob tained over the fire, when it boils skim it, then strain it into the soup stock. Next throw in the oysters and when they be- gin to shrink, showing they are fairly hot through take the vessel from the fire. Stir in the rolled crackers, (not cracker meal from the barrel,) the salt, pepper and butter, then at last add the boiling milk and pour the soup into the tureen. Sprinkle a little chopped parsley over the top. Cost of material—oysters 40, stock 4, milk 8. butter 5, seasonings 2; 59 cents for 3 quarts or 12 large plates, or 5c per plate. It should be observed in comparing cost that the previous receipt for the common lunch soup of the oyster houses supposes a pint or more to each person with crackers etc., on the table. A large soup plate is only half a pint. 333—Oyster Soup—French Way This is for 25 or 30 persons at a res- taurant party, or hotel dinner for 50. 2 quarts of oysters—or 3 cans. 4 quarts of seasoned fish stock. 1 quart French white wine. 3 or 4 anchovies. 18 yolka of eggs. 1 pint of cream. Salt, pepper, and white butter-and- flour thickening. Make the fish stock by boiling a 5 pound fish, or some eels, in plain broth, with a head of celery, a handful or two of parsely, salt, white pepper, the wine and anchovies. While it is boiling pour a few ladlefuls into the oysters and then drain them in a colander and add the liquor to the stock. When the lisli has boiled slowly about three quarters of an hour strain off the stock into another ket- tle, add a little thickening, (rou.c,) let it boil and skim it; put in the oysters and while they are rearing the boiling point again beat the yolks and the pint of cream together and stir them in. Draw the kettle to the side of the range and watch till the Suup becomes smooth and creamy but take care not to let it boil. Taste for seasoning. Cost of material—oysters $1,50, fish stock 25, wine 50, yolks 25, cream 15, seasonings 5; $2,70, or about 10 or 12 cents per plate. 334—Brown Oyster Soup. Take the preceding receipt for quanti- ties. While the fish stock is in prepa- ration fry a small carrot, turnip and a piece of onion, all chopped small, in a COOKING FOR PROFIT. 97 little batter till brown, then put them in the boiling stock and let them cook in it some time longer. Make some brown batter thickening (roux) by stirring together a cupful of batter and the same of flour in a frying pan and letting it bake brown in the oven. Strain off the fish stock into another kettle on the fire. Add the brown thick- ening, stirring lest it sink and burn on the bottom. Add the oyster liquor and draw the soup to the side of the range to slowly boil and clear itself by throw- ing up scam. Put in the juice of a lemon mixed with a little cold water and skim when the soup boils up again. A few minutes before dinner time put the oysters into the soup and take off as soon as it once more begins to boil. If no anchovies have been us«d in the fish stock to heighten the flavor a spoonful of essence of anchovies may be added to the finished soup. Season with salt and cayenne. Cost of material—oysters $1,50, fish stock 26 butter for browning 15, flour 1, lemon 2, seasonings 5; $1,98 if made without wine or $2,60 with wine, for 25 or 30 plates, or anywhere from 6 to 10 cents per plate. 335—Clams Raw—Half Shell. Wash the clams in water using a brush, and wipe dry. Open and loosen the clams from both shells. Serve a dozen on a plate or dish with half a lem- on in the center. Oyster crackers, but- ter and a dish of finely shred cabbage at the side. Selling price, generally the same as oysters. Small or "Little Neck" clams only are served raw. 336—Clam Stew. Make as directed for oyster stew. The smallest clams are the best for the pur- pose . If the large kind are used cut them in pieces after trimming and beard- ing. 337—Clams—Shell Roast. Same as oysters. 338—Scalloped Clams—Half Shell. Prepare the clams precisely as di- rected for oysters in patties, by making a white sauce of half clam liquor ana half milk thickened and seasoned. Put in the scalded clams. Then put a spoon- ful, or about two clams with the thick sauce adhering into eaeb clam shell. Dredge cracker meal over the top and bake on the top shelf in a hot oven. Moisten the tops with the back of a spoon dipped in melted butter. When brown serve. About two to a dish for hotel dinners, or by the dozen at a res- taurant . Cost—About oysters. the same as scalloped 339- Scalloped Clams—Party Dinner. Take the clams out of the shells and scald them slightly in their own liquor. Replace them in the half shell, pepper and salt, and then cover with fine bread crumbs, and bake quickly. Make a lit- tle white sauce of the clam liquor mixed with cream and a little butter and spoon- ful of flour thickening, and pour .a spoon- ful of it over the clam in the shell when it has become browned. Serve same as oysters, on a small fish plate, with a piece of lemon. 340—Fricasseed Clams on Toast. 12 large tbin slices of buttered toast. i dozen clams and their liquor. 6 yolks of eggs. 1 pint milk. 2 ounces butter. 1 ounce flour. 1 lemon, cayenne, salt. Boil the milk. Take the clams from their shells and scald in their own liquor, drain them from it and out them in pieces. Strain the clam liquor into the milk, add a spoonful of thickening, the 98 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETIE'S butter, and the yolks slightly beaten, and salt and cayenne to taste. Squeeze in the juice of the lemon. Then put in the cut clams. Dish spoonfuls on toast cut in neat shapes, or on fried crusts. Cost of material—clams 35, yolks 6, milk 4, butter 4, lemon and seasonings 3, buttered toast 8; 60 cents for 12 dish- es, or 5 cents per dish—or depending rn price of clams. Note.—The foregoing dish can be made choaper if desired by several little omissions, and tbe breakfast or lunch dishes contemplated will be large enough for two at dinner where it is only a side dish. 341—Clam Patties. The same as oyster patties, or, with the clams prepared as for scalloped or for fricasseed clams on toast put into pastry shells instead. 342—Soft Shell Clams Fried. This is a large kind of clam with a brittle shell. Cut off the leathery dark portion that projects from the shell and remove with knife and fingers the beard and string from the inside. This leaves the clam in the ring shape in which they come to market sometimes strung on twine. Throw them as they are taken out of the shell into a pan of cold water When wanted dry them between two towles, dip in beaten egg with a little water in it and then in cracker meal and fry in hot lard the same as oysters. Drain in a colander. Serve piled along the middle of a large dish with a quartered lemon and curled parsley for garnish. Cost of material—Clams at $1,50 per 100 15c, eggb 4, cracker meal 2, lard to fry 4, lemon 2, table extras 3; 30 cents per dozen. Usual charge 50 cents. Note.—Soft shell clams on account of their large size and open shape when cooked as above make a large and plen- tiful dish,and a very popular one. One- third as many are sufficient for an ordinary breakfast dish for one person. The lard required is not all used but allowance has to be made for the damage as, after two or three fryings the lard remaining is unfit for further use. 343—Scallops. The small, soft, white shellfish bearing this name may be cooked in all the same ways as oysters and clams, but is gene- erally preferred breaded and fried. 344—Clam Chowder—Coney Island Style. The clam chowder so popular in the restaurants as a lunch dish is more of a stew than a soup, being thick with clams and potatoes; a large plate of it makes a hearty meal for a person. It is conse- quently unsuitable to serve as soup at hotel dinners. The Coney Island chow- der contains tomatoes and herb season- ings. Take 1 quart of clams and their liquor—or a large can. 1 quart soup stock (or water). 1 quart raw potatoes cut in pieces. 1 large onion. Butter size of an egg. A slice of ham—or knuckle bone. 1 pint tomatoes chopped. 1 teaspoon mixed thyme and savory. 6 cloves, 1 bay leaf, parsley. 1 teaspoon each black pepper and salt. The different articles should be made ready separately and placed conveniently for use. Have the clams scalded and then cut in pieces and the liquor saved. Cut the potatoes in large squares and slice the onions. An hour before dinner put the butter and ham in a saucepan to- gether, and the onions on top and set over the fire. Put the cloves inside of a little bunch of parsley and tie it and the bayleaf together and throw in on top of the onions, and also the powdered or minced thyme and savory, and put on the lid,and let stew slowly. Iu about 15 or 20 minutes or before the ham and COOKING FOR PROFIT. 99 onions begin to brown put into the same saucepan the quart of eoup stock ,the clam liquor and potatoes, tomatoes, pepper and salt and let ceok until the potatoes are done, then put in the cut clams. Take out the soup Lunch and piece of ham, let boil up once with the clams in. It is expected that the potatoes will sufficiently thicken this chowder without the use of flour but they should not be allowed to boil so much as to disappear altogether. Cost of material—clams 40, soup- stock 4, potatoes and onion 2, butter 4 ham 2, tomatoes 5, seasonings 2, 59 cents for 3 quarts or 20 cents per quart or 5c per ordinary plate of £ pint. The first-class restaurant price per pint plate or bowl with table extras added is 25c. 345—Clam Chowder—Boston Style. This is what is called the old-fashioned sort, having no tomatoes in it. Make the same as the foregoing but leave out the cloves, the bayleaf and the tomatoes, and put in a pint of milk instead and a handful of broken crackers. 346—Baked Clam Chowder—Hotel Side Dish. 1 cupful clams. 1 cup of the clam liquor. 1 cup salt pork cut in dice. 2 cups sliced raw potatoes. I small onion. 1 teaspoon mixed salt and pepper. 1 cup milk. \ cup crushed crackers. A deep pan or crock that holds 2 quarts is needed to cook this without boiling over. Cut the pork in dice, put it into the pan and bake it light brown. Take the pan out and strew some of the thin sliced potatoes all over the pork scraps and fat . Shave some slices of the onion over them, then half the clams, cut in small pieces, then more potatoes, onion, and the rest of the clams. Potatoes on top and the crushed crackers over all. Mix the quart of milk with the clam liquor, add the pepper and salt and pour it over the crackers. Brush a sheet of thick paper with a little meat fat, lay it on top of the chowder and bake in a moderate oven about 2 hours. It will be partly browned on top. More liquid may be needed if the chowder boils away fast. It is done whenever the potatoes in the center are dona Dish out spoonfuls on flat dishes Cost of material—clams 15, pork 6, potatoes 1, seasoning 2; 24 cents for 3 pints or 8 to 12 orders, or 2 or 3 cents per plate. 347—Clam Soup—Hotel. 1 can of clams or \ dozen. 1 quart clear soup stock. 1 cup raw potatoes in dice. £cup crushed crackers. 1 slice raw ham. 1 heaping tablespoon chopped onion. 2 cups milk. 1 tablespoon minced parsley. The soup stock should have been al- ready flavored with vegetables in the stock boiler. Strain the required amount and set it over the fire. Fry the piece of ham at the side of the range brown on both sides, put it into the stock, without the grease and let boil in it for flavor, also, add the onions. Scald the clams in their own liquor a minute or two; take them out, pour the liquor to the soup through a fine strainer, and cut the clams in small pieces. Thirty minutes before diuner throw in the pota- toes and seasoning of salt and pepper and take out the ham which is no more needed in the soup), and skim a it begins to boil again. Add the clams and boil a few minutes, and the cupful of crackers and chopped parsley and the milk which should be already boiling. The care required is to have the pota- toes clone and not boiled away, and the crumbled crackers just dissolved in the soup without making it too thick. 690530A COOKING FOR PROFIT. 101 and mnetard, and pinch of cayenne and sait, then press it slightly into a melon mould or some kind of deep bowl. Prepare the dish with a border of let- tuce or endive very finely shred (like slaw) with a sharp knife. Turn out the shape of mixed lobster and celery in the center and cover it all over with thick mayonaise (No. 151). Place the red pieces of lobster around the base and or- nament further with quarters of hard- boiled eggs/' Cost of material—lobster 25, celery and lettuce 4, mayonaise 15, oil and vin- egar or lemon juice 5, eggs 5; 54 cents for over a quart or 4 restaurant orders for 15c per dish, or 8 individual dishes for 7c per dish. 356—Lobster Mayonaise—Hotel Dinner. 1. The same as the preceding except in shape. Instead of the dome shape or melon shape spread out the mixed lobster meat and celeiy iu a flat platter so that it will be an inch deep and spread the mayonaise all over it. Keep it very cold. When to be served place a little freshly shred lettuce in the small dish, a neat spoonful of the salad in the middle ana pieces of red lobster meat around. 2. The dishes can be made to look very neat and attractive by the way above described of taking up spoonfuls from a mass ready spread in a disb, (and it is quick to ilish up,) but another way is to dish the lobster salad out ot the pan it is mixed in into the individual dish with or without a border of green, then ou top drop a tablespoonful of may- onaise, without spreading or smoothing it, and garnish with quartered eggs or or olives or a slice of lemon. Cost—About 5c per individual dish. 357—Salad Cream Without Oil. leup vinegar. £cup water. \ cup butter—2 ounces. \ cup yolks of estgs—5 or six yolks. 1 tablespoon made mustard. 1 teaspoon sugar. Salt, cayenne. Boil the vinegar, water, butter and salt together in a bright saucepan, beat the yolks, and add to them some of the boiling liquid, then pour all into the saucepan, stir rapidly, and in a few sec- onds, or as soon as the mixture becomes thick and smooth, like softened butter, take it from the fire. Add the mustard and cayenne, and make it ice cold for Cost of material—20-cents a pint. Note.—The foregoing is extremely useful for making a salad of almost any material; it should be practiced a few times until the proper point at which to remove it from the fire is well under- stood. It is generally thickest and smoothest in half a minute after the yolks are poured into the bo:ling liquid, and it becomes thicker when cooled by being set in ice water. It will keep a consid- erable time. 358—Salad Cream—Not Cooked. The vinegar is boiled but not the eggs and it is somewhat different from the preceding kind. \ cup vinegar. -J cup water. \ cup butter. £ cup raw eggs—3. Mustard, pepper-sauce, salt Boil the vinegar and water together; beat the eggs up a little in a bowl and pour the boiling liquor to them, beating at the same time, then put in the butter either previously softened or in little pieces and stir until it is melted. Add a little mustard thinned down in a cup first with some of the dressing. 359—Lobster Salad Made With Celery. 1 can lobster. Same measure minced celery. 1 cup salad cream. 102 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S Shred lettuce endive or cress. Mince the celery very fine, but cut the lobster into pieces size of beans. Put the lobster in a bright pan, the celery on top and the salad cream poured over and mix u,) lightly without mashing the lob- ster to a paste Garnish the dishes first with shred lettuce and dhh the lobster salad in the middle. Cost of material—30 cents per quart or 3 to 4 cents per individual dish. 360—Lobster Salad made with Let- tuce. Pick out the hearts of lettuce and pu two or three of the smallest leaves in each dish. Chop the rest only a few minutes before it is wanted and mix with lobster and salad cream the same as di- rected for the preceding kind. 361—Substitute for Celery. Use tender while cabbage finely minced and flavor it with celery seed, celery vinegar, or celery salt, or mix in a few green celery leaves. It is good also un- flavored and seasoned with oil and vin- egar. 362—Lobster Salad made with Po- tatoes. 1 can lobster Same measure of cold cooked potatoes. 2 hard-boiled eggs. 1 cup salad cream. Cut the cold potatoes in dice shape and the lobster as near as possible in the same form and eggs likewise. Put all in a pan pour the salad cream over them and mix by shaking up. Cost—lobster 20. potatoes 2, salad cream 10, eggs 4; 36 cents or 3 to 4 cents per individual dish. 363—Buttered Lobster on Toast. Take the large and solid pieces of lob- ster, cut them to an even size but not very small. Put a piece of butter size of an egg in a frying pan and chop it apart with a spoon while it is getting hot over the fire and when melted put in the lobster, dredge with pepper and salt, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon and shake it ba.-k and forth. As soon as hot through it is ready. Serve on thin broad slices of buttered toast. Cost—34 cents for 8 portions or about 4 cents per dish. 364—Lobster Patties. See directions for oyster patties of the different varieties, white, yellow, brown, in puff paste shells and in household style and make lobster patties the same way, but remember to season lobster with a dash of lemon juice and cayenne. 365—Lobster Cutlets. So called because made to imitate a lamb chop or cutlet breaded. 1 heaping eup lobster meat—8 oz. 1 cup fine bread crumbs—2 oz. Butter size of a guinea egg. 1 teaspoon mixed salt a ad pepper. 2 tablespoons vinegar. 8 lobster claws. 1 egg and one cup cracker meal. Lard to fry. Mash the lobster meat and the season- ing ingredients together in a pan to a paste, divide into 6 or 8 portions, take them up with flour ou the hands and make into the shape ot small pears, then flatten them, stick a lobster claw in each one to look like the bone of a lamb chop. Dip them in egg beaten up with a little water and from that into cracker meal and fry light brown by. immersion in plenty of hot lard. Better if you have a wire basket to dip them and not break. Serve with sauce, either tomato sauce or tomato and cream, sauce mixed, or pars- ley sauce. Cost—of material—lobster 12, butter 3, bread and seasonings 1, egg and cracker meal 3, lard to fry 2; 21 cents, or with sauce from 3 to 4 cents per dish, according to size made up. COOKING FOR PROFIT. 103 366—Lobster Croquettes. Instead of mashing to a paste as m the preceding case, chop the lobster small and stir in the bread crumbs, melt the bntter and pour in, add a little chopped parsley and make up in pear shapes or in any other shape, and bread and fry ap before. 367—Shrimps and Prawns. The small sea shrimp is generally eaten in the shell, the head and tail only re- moved, being more delicate flavor than the prawn bnt too small for most culi- nary purposes. The prawn is twice as large. It is the pink colored large shrimp of southern waters and is now readily obtainable put up in cans ready trimmed and shelled for use. Shrimps of all kinds are first couked by dropping them in boiling salt water. It is said to show that they were dead when put in the boiler if they come out ying straight at full length; and it is considered they ought to be dropped in alive and consequently quite fresh, when they come out in the doubled form as they are seen in the market . Ten min- utes boiling is enough. 368—Shrimps in Mayonaise. Put the shrimps—already picked from their shells—in a pan or bowl, add a spoonful of vinegar and the same of ol- ive oil, a pinch of salt, and cayenne and shake them1 about until they are mois- tened all over. Then heap them neatly in a dish. Put a border of minced cel- ery or shred lettuce around and a spoon- ful of mayonaise dressing on fop of the shrimps. Cost—A cupful of prepared shrimps costs 25 cents, or twice as much as lob- ster. The ways of preparing lobsters serve equally as well for shrimps but the cost should be counted double—or the 25 cent restaurant dishes be about half the cost of lobster salad. 369—Shrimp Salad. Put the prepared shrimps in a bowl with salad cream enough to almost cov- er them. Prepare individual salad dish- es with a border of fresh shred lettuce and dish up a spoonful of the shrimps and sauce in the middle. Cost—shrimps 25, salad cream 5, let- tuce 1; 31 cents for 6 or 8 dishes or 5 cents per plate. 370—Buttered Shrimps Warm up the prepared shrimps in a frying pan with a little butter, pepper and salt and serve them as soon as hot through on a broad thin slice of buttered toast. 371—Shrimp Toast. Ponnd the shrimps to a paste, season pleasantly with salt, pepper, a slight grating of nutmeg, a teaspoonful of lem- on juice and half as much best butter as there is shrimp, and spread it upon thin slices of toast . A breakfast or luncheon dish. 372-Crabsto Boil. Boil the same as lobsters. The large deep-water crabs take the same length of time. Soft shells are done in ten or fifteen minutes. Use the large ones if possible for salads and to dress cold. 373—Soft Shell Crabs, Boiled. As served in the restaurants every part of a soft shell crab is eaten, shell, claws and all, except the sand pouch on the under side, but the small claws should be taken off when the crabs are to be cooked by boiling. Drop the crabs into boiling water al- ready well salted,cook 10 or 15minutes, drain, and serve with a sauce at the side. Tomato ketchup, mayonaise sauce,hot cream sauce or butter or parsley sauce are suitable kinds. 104 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 374—Soft Shell Crabs, Fiied. Bread it in the usual maimer by dip- ping in egg in which a small proportion of water has been beaten, then in cracker meal. Drop two or three at a time in a saucepan of hot oil or lard and fry light brown in about ten minutes. The claws should be crisp enough to break. Gar- nish with fried parsley and serve niayon- aise at the.side separately. Cost—poft- shells bring from 10c to 20c each in the markets when hard shells are but from 2c to 5c—according to where the market may be located. Two soft-shells tried, with sauce and ta ble extras constitute a restaurant dish at 50 or 60 cents. 375—Crab Salad. 6 boiled crabs, common size, 1 cup finely minced white cabbage let- tuce, or eudiva i cup salad cream. Pick the meat out of the crabs, cut all that can be cut into pieces of even size and rub the rest smooth in salad dressing, adding a little mustard. Mix cabbage and dressing thoroughly, and the crab meat mix in lightly without breaking the pieces. Fill the crab shells with the salad and place them on a dish previously prepared with a bed of cress or other green. Cost of material—6 crabs 25, salad cream 5, green 2; 32 cents for 6 shells of salad or 5 or Gc each. serve the meat in them, placed on a bed of something green—lettuce, cress,young celery plants or parsley. 377—Devilled Crabs. Boil the crabs in salted water 20 min- utes, open and crack the claws and take out the meat, measure it with a spoon into a bowl and add half as many spoon- fuls of fine bread crumbs. For each crab add a teaspoonful of softened butter, same of vinegar mixed with a small tea- spoonful of made mustard,a pinch of suit and cayenne. Pack the mixture in I he crab shells and cover the surface with cracker meal,bake brown in a brisk oven and baste the tops once with butter to moisten the breading. Serve in the shells. Cost—about 5 cents each. 378—Canned Crabs Devilled. 1 can of era-. \ cup butter sauce. £ hard-boiled yolks of eggs. Salt and cayenne. Crab shells or paper cases. Have the butter sauce made the same as if for boiled meat, mash the yolks and sauce together and stir|into the crab. Sea- son to taste. Oil the crab shells inside with salad oil, fill up, smooth over the top, bake about 6 minutes and serve hot . Note.—Crab salads may be made in all the same ways as shrimp and lobster salads; particularly good with mayonaise dressing. 376—Dressed Crab. Pick the meat from the shell and claws, cut the solid part into small pieces, dry the soft part with the addi- tion of a spoonful of fine bread crumbs, mix all with a little oil, vinegar and mustard. Wash and dry the shells and Cost—can of devilled crab 20, yolks 7, butter sauce 3; 30 cents for 6 or 8. Note.—The canned crab is called dev; illed crab as it is, simply meaning that i- is minced and cooked. It is usually dryer than the meat taken out of the shells,being composed of selected meat— hence the difference between the two foregoing receipts, bread being needed in one case to dry it up. Crab shells may be saved over and used many times for the same purpose. When a number are to be served at once, dish them on COOKING FOR PROFIT. 105 a folded napkin and ornament the dish. Paper cases may be purchased to answer the same purpose as shells. 379—Bnttered Crabs. Devilled crab from the cans made hot in a frying pan with a little butter, pep- per and salt and^served on toast. QUAKER DAIRY LUNCH. Farinaceous and milk food; such dish- es as mush and milk, bread and butter and fruit and buttermilk are the special- ties of some lunch houses. These are all cheap and healthful dishes and many cus- tomers avail themselves of the opportu- nity to avoid meat eating altogether. A large variety of pastry, puddings and cakes, however, gets into the bill of fare of most of the "dairies" eventually,such as have been enumerated already under the head of fine bakery lunch, and a few more will be found following these sim- pler dishes. 380—Oatmeal Mush and Milk. and let simmer at the side. Watch to see that it does not boil dry but only stir it up when nearly done. Serve warm, with cold milk in another bowl. Cost—with oatmeal 6c per pound- - oatmeal mush 3c per quart or 3 large cups, milk 6; 3 cents each person. >Jote.—This being such a cheap dish and the usual price ten cents, some res- taurants serve a platter with an unstinted amount of mush and a pint of milk for that charge. 381—Cracked Wheat Mush and Milk. The same as oatmeal but the wheat meeds longer boiling—say 3 hours. It is better for a previous soaking in water. 382—Hulled Corn or Home Made Hominy. Steep a quart of white corn in weak lye for two days, wash in two waters and boil it about 4 hours or unlil tender. The lye from the leach of wood ashes is the kind generally used, but a weak so- lution of concentrated lye will answer and if that is not available mix a handful of baking soda in water enough to cover the corn twice over and let steep in that. Wash well before cooking, eat with salt and milk. 1 cup oatmeal. 4 cups water. 2 teaspoons salt. The coarsest oatmeal is the best and the least liable to burn. It is the dust in oatmeal that sticks and scorches on the bottom, if that is washed away the tendency will be very much lessened. A double bottomed kettle can be used if steam enough can be kept up, but gen- erally mush seems better when cooked in a pot on a part of the range that is not very hot. Boil the water two hours before the meal, put in the oatmeal, cover down Cost—the same as mush and milk, rom 1 to 3 cents each person. 383—Soda Crackers and Milk. 10 crackers and a pint bowl of milk. Usual charge 10 cents. 384—Graham or Oatmeal Crackers and Milk. Same as the preceding. 385—Doughnuts md Milk. Prepare the dough as if for French rolls or cream rolls, roll out thin, cut out like small biscuits, brash over the tops with the least possible amount of melted 1(16 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES lard and let stand iu pans to rise for an hour. Take them up singly and drop in a kettle of hot lard and fry light brown in about 5 minutes. Cost of material—these small plain doughnuts 6 cents per dozen. Uusually one with a glass of milk, 5c. 386—Baked Pork and Beans. Wash and pick over a large heaping cupful of navy beans and steep them in water over night. Put tbem on next morning with fresh water to more than cover, and baking soda the size of a bean and let boil about an hour. Then carry them to the sink, pour all into a colander letting the water run away and put back into the saucepan with cold water enough to come up to a level. Boil again and in a few minutes they will be soft. Season with a little salt and table- spoon of molasses.' Put them into four pint bowls or tin pans, lay an ounce slice of salt pork on each and bake half an hour. 387—Boston Brown Bread. 1 pound corn meal—about 3 cups. 1 pint boiling water—2 cups. £ cup black molasses. 1 cup cold water. 1 cup yeast or yeast cake in water. £ pound of either rye or graham flour. -£ pound of white flour—a heaping pint. Salt. Pour the boiling water over the corn- meal in a pan and mix, throw in a tea- spoonful of salt, add the molasses and cold water, then the yeast and then the two kinds of flour. Line two sheet-iron brown bread pails with greased paper,put in the dough and let rise from one to two hours, then bake or steam for five hours. If steamed, bake the loaves afterward long enough to form a light crust. Cost of material— corn meal 3, flour 3, molasses and yeast 2; 8 cents for two 2-pound loaves. Note.—A good sort of bread is made as above with a pound of graham sifted through a common flour sieve to remove the coarse bran,and the white flour omit- ted ; or with all rye flour and no graham or white. Care should be taken not to scald the yeast by adding it to the hot meal before the cold water. When this kind of bread is sticky when sliced it shows it was made up too wet. When the loaves come out hollow or caved in it hows too much fermentation. Cost of material—beans 4, pork 4; 8 cents for 4 dishes 388—Sour Milk Cheese or Smearkase. Set a pan of clabbered milk on the stove when there is not much fire, and let it heat slowly without burning on the bottom. When it shows signs of boiling it should be taken off, as actual boiling makes the curd tough. Pour it into a Siece of muslin, tie and hang on a nail to rip until next day. Chop up the ball of curd and mix with salt, pepper and cream to taste, or cream or sweet milk and sugar. Sells well at the dairy lunch houses When for sale in that way it is not ne- cessary to add any seasonings but a little salt. Serve in saucers. Cost of material—one gallon sour milk value 20 cents will yield 12 ounces of cheese, which chopped and moistened with milk makes 3 half pints, or 6 of the little cheeses done up in tinfoil that we find for sale in the stores. 389—Cream Cheese. Take a quart of cream that has become sour and thick, mix in a tablespoonful of salt and pour it into a piece of thin mus- lin (butter wrapping) placed in a sieve or basket bottom. Leave it in the milk house or other cold place three days, to drain and ripen, pouring away the whey from the dish it stands on every day. Lift the cheese out by taking hold of the corners of the cloth; invert it on to a 108 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZE1TES happens to be cold, mash it with the milk made hot, so as to have no lump?. One huge cup of cracked wheat raw will make the above amount. The mush is expected to be dry. else use less milk or more eggs, The pudding has to be apparently quite fluid when put in the oven but comes out firm enough. Cost of material—mush 3, suet 2, molasses 2, eggs, 4, milk and cinnamon 1; 12 cents for 3 pints or 6 or 8 orders or 2 cents each, with sauce 3 cents. 393—Lincoln Pie 1 pound broken crackers or bread. 1 pound brown sugar or molasses. \ pound currants. 1 ounce mixed ground spices, chiefly cinnamon, 1 pint cold water. -A pint hard cider, or vinegar and water. I pound suet chopped fine, or lard. Soak the crackers or bread in the flu- ids awhile. Mix everything together. Cover the bottom of a baking pan with a very thin sheet of common short paste. Pour in the mixture to be 1£ inches deep. Cover with another very thin sheet of paste. Brush over with milk. Bake to a light color in a slow oven about three-quarters of an hour. Cut out squares either hot or cold. Cost of material—bread 3, sugar 8, currants 5, spice 5. cider 2, suet 10, pie-paste 11; 44 cents for 6 or 7 pounds or 14 squares. 394—Baked Custad in Cups. 1 quart milk. 6 eggs. 4 cup sugar—4 ounceb. Flavoring. Break the eggs into the sugar and pour in the milk while beating. Grate in a quarter of a nutmeg. Fill five k-pint cups with the i-.nstard, wipe off the edges and outside, set in a pan and bake in a slack oven about 20 minutes. Be careful not to let the cups remain in the oven longer than till the custard is just set in the middle. Cost of material—milk 8, egg3 13, sugar and flour 3; 24c, or 5 cents per cup or according to price of eggs. These are restaurant cups that sell as pudding at 10c. Common custard cups only half the size. 395—Blackberry Meringue. as strawberry mer- Make the same ingue at No. 195. 396—Peach Meringue Pare ripe peaches (not cooked) and cut them to size of strawberries and make the same as strawberry meringue at No. 195. 397—Peach Shortcake. The same thing as strawberry short- cake, using chop, led ripe peaches instead. It is a cake of short paste, not sweet, as large as a plate and thick as a biscuit, split iu two after baking,peaches and su- gar spread on the lower half, the other placed on top with the split side upward and more peaches spread upon that. It is eaten with cream. The ingredients required are: 1 cup lard or butter—8 ounces. 3 cups flour—12 ounces. \ teaspoon salt. 1 cud ice water. 1 quart cut peaches. 1 cup sugar. Pare the peaches, cut them small and shake up with the sugar before making the paste, and set them in a cool place. Rub the butter into the flour thoroughly with the hands. Salt is needed only where lard is used. Make a hollow in the middle, pour in the water, mix up soft, roll out on the table in flour re- served for the purpose. It makes the cake flaky ana part in layers to roll it and fold it a few times like pie paste. Then make it up round, let stand five minutes, roll out thick as biscuit and COOKING FOR PROFIT. 109 bake on a jelly-cake pan. Finish with fruit as above stated. Cost of material—peaches 20, crust 13, sugar 5; 37 cents for 2 shortcakes,to be cut in quarters. 398—Apple Shortcake. Use mellow apples of fine flavor and mike the same as peach shortcake, the apples not to be cooked, but mixed with sugar and chopped and used immediatly. 399—Peach Cobbler. A peach pie made in a baking pan to be cut out in squares. Make common pie paste, roll out the larger half of it to a thin sheet and take up off the table by rolling it up on the rolling pin and so un- roll it on the pan. Put in pared and cut peaches an inch deep, dredge a little sugar over them,cover with the top crust and bake about half an hour. Cost—each person about the same as fruit pie or apple dumplings, or 3 to 5 cents per plate. 400—Apple Cobbler. Same as peach cobbler. Other fruits same way. With apples use cianamon or nutmeg for flavor. 401—Boiled Rice and Milk. 1 cup rice—\ pound. 2 cupe water. 1 cup milk. Salt. Wash the rice in three or four waters, rubbing it between the hands to remove all the flour there may be about it. Set it on to boil in the water and when half done put in the milk Keep the lid on and never stir it, but simmer at the side of the range and it will not be apt to burn. Serve like oatmeal or cornmeal mush, in a bowl with another bowl full of milk. Cost of material—rice 4, milk 2; 6 cents a quart or 3 or 4 portions—with milk 4 cents each person. 402—Batter Cakes with Syrup. No egg., needed,and raised with yeast 3 cups flour—12 ounces. 2J cupt water and yeast. 1 tablespoon melted lard. 1 tablespoon syrup. £ teaspoon salt . The yeast may be either J cup of po- tato yeast or ferment, or £ a yeast cake in so much water. Sift the flour into a pan, make a hollow in the middle, strain in the yeast and water, stir around to mix in the flour gradually and when all melted without being lumpy add the other ingredients and beat thoroughly. Let st&nd in a warm place to rise 6 hours, beat up again and bake. When the cakes are for breakfast mix the batter over night with cold water according to the weather. Cost of material—flour and yeast 3, lard and syrup 2, 5 cents for 3 pints, 24 cakes or 8 orders. See remarks about buckwheat cakes. The cakes cost noth- ing relatively, it is the syrup, butter, and made of baking that make the ex- pense. 403—Flannel Cakes—Best. 4 cups flour. 4 cups warm water. $ cup ysast. 1 tablespoon syrup. Lard size of an egg. 2 eggs. Little salt. Mix the flour into a batter with the yeast and water either over night, if it is for breakfast, or 6 hours before supper. An hour before it is time to bake add the other ingredients—the lard melted and beat well. Bake when light again. Cost of material—flour 3, yeast and syrup 1, lard 2, eggs 4; 10 cents for 2 quarts or 30 cakes—1 cent each persoa add for syrup and butter 110 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES 404—Baking Powder Batter Cakes. Same ingredients as "flannel cakes," but no yeast. Put in two large teaspoons of baking powder and beat up with an egg beater. • 405—White Bread Cakes. 2 pressed-in cups bread crumbs. \ cups flour. 8 cups water. 2 eggs. Salt. 1 teaspoon baking powder. Remove all dark crust from the bread, and then soak it in a pint of the water several hours, with a plate to press it under. Mash smooth and add the flour, the cup of milk or water, eggs and pow- der. It always improves batter cakes to beat the eggs light, before mixing them in. No shortening nor syrup needed for the above. Cost of material—bread 2, flour 5, eggs and powder 5; 8 cents for 3 pints or 24 cakes. 406—Graham Bread Cakes. Make like the preceding, wilh part graham flour, and the crumbs of graham bread. 407—Corn Batter Cakes. 1 heaping cup white corn meal. 1 cup flour—4 ounces. 1 tablespoon melted lard. 1 egg. Little salt. 2 cups water. 1 tablespoon syrup. 1 teaspoon baking powder. Mix gradually to avoid having lumps in the batter.. Add the powder last and beat up well. When you have milk leave out the syrup as the cakes will brown well enough without it. 408—Corn Cakes Without Flour. 2 cups corn meal 12 ounces. 2 cups water. Lard size of an egg. 2 eggs. Little salt. 1 teaspoon baking bowder. Boil halt the water-(or milk) and scald the meal with it, add the other ingredi- ents, the powder last. Note.—Buttermilk aud soda can be used instead of baking powder in the several kinds of batter cakes, the pro- portions are 1 teaspoonful soda to 2 cups butter milk-which should be sour enough to counteract that amount. 409—Rice Batter Cakes. 1 heaping pint dry cooked rice. 1 large cup milk or water. 6 ounces flour— 2 level cups. 2 eggs (or 5 yolks for best quality). 2 tablespoons syrup. 1 teaspoon baking powder. Salt . The amount of rice to be cooked spe- cially for this is one teacupful, boiled in a pint of water, with the steam shut iu. If ready cooked cold rice, warm the milk and mash the rice with it free from lumps, adding flour at the same time. Then mix in the other ingredients; the eggs well beaten first. Bake on a grid- dle. Buttermilk and soda can be used instead of the powder and sweet milk. 410—Sugar Tops or Cookies Without Eggs- 1 cup butter or lard—8 ounces. 1 cup sugar—8 ounces. 1 cup water. 2 teaspoons baking powdgr 6 cups flour—\ pounds Mix butter and sugar together, then the water (not too cold) then the flour with the powder in it. The softer the dough can be handled the better the cake? will be. Roll out thin, sift gran- ulated sugar over, run the rolling pin over again to make the sugar stick; cut out and bake. Note.—In the bakeries baking-pow- der means pulverized carbonate of am. monia. It is the most effective agent for raising cakes because it all evapo- COOKING FOR PROFIT. Ill rates with great rapidity and great force when the substance it is incorporated with is exposed to the action of heat In making sugar cakes or cookies some practice is necessary to produce them properly for the reason that the softness of the butter or lard used makes a dif- ference iu the amount of flour that will be taken up in making them out, and if too much flour the cakes come out like common biscuits, so that with the same receipt to work by one person will make a sugar cake twice as good as another. Another thing to be watched is the amount of baking powder—whether the common household baking powder or ammonia it all ao s the Rime—because too much destroys the cakes by making them too light, full of holes and spread all over the pans, while with too little or with v/eak powder they remain harder than crackers. 411—Cookies—Good. 2 cups sugar—1 pound. 1 cup butter—8 ounces. 6 eggs. 1 cup milk. i teaspoons baking powder. 8 cups flour—2 pounds. Soften the butter and rub it and the sugar together until well mixed, add the eggs one at a time,then the milk and flour with powder in. Sift flour ou the table, turn out the lump of dough and pat it smooth and compact, keeping it quite soft. Thn roll it out thin as the edge of a dinner plate, dredge granu- lated sugar over and cut out the cakes. Place with plenty of room between on the'baking pans and bake. The dough wben it has been suffi- ciently pressed or kneaded together should be alio we 1 to rest on the table a minute or two before rolling out which will prevent the cakes drawing up out of shape when cut out. 412—Cookies—Richest and Best. 1 pound of sugar. 1 pound of butter. 12 eggs. 3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Flour to make soft dough—3 pounds. Cream the butter and sugar together the same as for pound cake. Beat the eggs and mix them in, then the powder, add some flavoring, then flour. Let the dough, after it has been worked smooth, stand a few minutes before roll- ing it out. Sift sugar ovur the sheet of dough before cutting out the cakes. 413—Hard Cookies or Sweet Crackers. To cut in fancy shapes. They do not spread or lose form. 12 ounces of powdered sugar. 6 ounces of butter. 6 eggs. Halt cup full of milk. 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. 2 pounds of flour. Lemon or cinnamon extract to flavor. 414—German Sugar Tops. Rich cookies sprinkled with grave sugar. 1 cup sugar—8 ounces. £ cup butter, large—4 ounces. 3 eggs. A cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. i cups flour—1 pound. Work the softened butter and sugar together to a cream, the same as for pound cake, beat the eggs and mix them in, then the milk, and the flour with the powder mixed in it. Keep the dough as soft as it can be handled. After it has been pressed and worked smooth on the table let it alone a few minutes before rolling out, then the cakes will not draw out of shape when cut. While they are baking mix an egg and some syrup together in a cup. add some flavoring extract, brush the hot cakes over with it and dredge gravel sugar on top. Gravel sugar is loaf sugar crushed and the dust sifted away, then again sifted in a colander. The sugar that passes 112 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES through the holes of the colander is gravel sugar. 415—Jumbles. These are cookies in ring shapes of vari ous degrees of richness. The proper shape is ribbed by being forced out of a tube with a saw tooth aperture. Commonly, however, they are only rings made with a ring cookie cutter. Either of the fore- going mixtures for sugar cakes or cook ies muy be used or this, which is rich and contains no powder, 1 pound sugar. 12 ounces butter. 8 eggs. Flavoring extract—either lemon, or ange or cinnamon. 2 pound scant of flour. 416—Ginger Snaps—Rich Kind. 8 ounces of butter. 8 ounces of white sugar. 8 eggs. 1 to 2 ounces of ground ginger. I teaspoonful of baking powder. II pounds of flour. Make same way ae cookies. Sift gran- ulated sugar over the sheet of dough and run the rolling pin over to make it adhere before cutting out the cakes. 417—Ginger Snaps—English, Richest. 1£ enps sugar—12 ounces. 1 cup butter—8 ounces. 8 eggs. h cup milk. 2 tablespoons ground ginger. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 6 cups flour—1£ pounds. Mix up in the usual way for cookies. Sift sugar over before cutting out the cakes. These will keen for vears. 418—Brown Ginger Cookies, Good Common. 8 ounces butter—1 cup. 8 ounces sugar—1 cup. 8 ounces black molasses—a small tea- cup 4 eggs. 2 ounces ground ginger—2 tablespoons. Half cup milk or water. 4 teaspoons baking powder. 2 pounds flour, or enough to make soft dough. Mix the ingredients in the order they are printed. Boll out and cut with a small cutter. 419—Ginger Nuts without Eggs. 8 ounces butter—1 cup. 8 ounces of sugar—1 cup. 8 ounces of molasses—snull teacup. 2 teaspoons ground ginger. 2 teaspoons baking powder. Flour to make soft dough. Warm the butter, sugar and molasses together and mix them well,when nearly cold again add the ginger, powder and flour. Roll pieces of the dough in long thin rolls and cut off in pieces large as cherries. Place on buttered pans with plenty of room between. Bake light. 420—Brandy Snaps. 1 pound flour—4 cups. 8 ounces butter—1 cup 8 ounces sugar—1 cup. 2 ounces ground ginger. Lemon extract flavor. 1 teaspoonful soda—rounded measure. \ pounds light molasses—2 cups. Bub the butter into the flour as in making short paste, and add the ginger. Make a hole in the middle of the flour and put in the sugar, molasses and ex- tract; dissolve the soda in a spoonful of water and add it to the rest. Stir all together, drawing in the flour gradually while stirring. Drop this batter with a teaspoon on baking pans—they need not be greased— and Lake in a slack oven. The snaps run out flat and thin. Take them off be- fore they get cold and bend them to round or tabular shape on a new broom handle. 114 SAN FRANCISCO H01EL GAZETTES FINE CONFECTIONERY GOODS. 424—Peanut Bar. 1 pound granulated sugar. £ pound shelled peanuts. Make the peanuts hot in the oven. Set the sugar over the fire in a kettle to melt without any water. Stir it a little. When it is all melted and of the color of golden syrup or light molasses mix in tho peanuts, pour the candy into a but- tered shallow pan and when nearly cold cut into strips and blocks. 425—Mint Drops. 1 pound pulverized sugar. 1 heaping teaspoon powdered gum- arabic. 5 tablespoons water. 1 tablespoon essence pepperment. Put the water on in a small saucepan or cup and the gum in it and let warm up. When the gum is dissolved put about a quarter of the tugar in, let boil up and then add half the sugar that re- mains putting it in gradually without stirring. When it boils again take it to the table and stir in the remaining sugar and after that the flavoring. Drop por- tions the size of quarter dollars on bheets of paper. They slip off the paper when cold. It may be neces'^ary to add an- other tablespoon or two of sugar to give the drops consistency enough not to run on the paper, yet it is better it be too thin than too much the other way. 426—Wintergreen Drops. The same as the preceding, but make them pink with a few drops of cochineal or vegetable red coloring and use winter- green extract for flavoring. These drops have a smooth surface but are slightly granulated inside. Clove drops, cinna- mon drops etc., same way. 427—Honey Nougat. A moist candy to be sliced, wrapped in wax tissue paper, i tablespoons strained honey. 2 ounces almonds, blanched. 1 pound flour of sugar,or icing sugar. Make the honey hot without boiling, stir in the sugar a little at a time until it becomes too firm, then turn out on the table and knead in more sugar and also the almonds, which must be dry. When the nougat is firm enough to keep its form in a square bar like a brick split length- wise, sugar the outside, roll it in wax paper and keep it a day before slicing it up tor sale. Wrap the little cuts like- wise in wax paper. 428—Tutti-Frutti Candy. Take the preceding receipt and add to it a teaspoon of vanilla,two figs cut small and an equal amount of raisins seeded and cut; work up into a bar with all the fine, powdered sugar necessary to make it firm, cut in slices and wrap in wax tissue paper. 429—Burnt Almonds. I pound shelled almonds. 1 pound sugar. \ cup water. 1 level teaspoon cream tarter. Set the almonds in a round-bottom- ed candy kettle over a moderate fire and stir them until they begin to parch. Boil the sugar, water and cream tartar together, making a clear syrup, pour a little over the almonds in the kettle and keep tbem moving while it dries to su- gar on them, then pour on more and so on till the syrup is all used and the al- monds are thickly covered. A little red coloring can be added to the syrup near the last to make the outside coating of that color. 430—Almond Taffy—Brown. 1£ pounds brown sugar. 8 ounces best fresh butter. 1 tcacupful of vinegar and water— about half and half. 8 to 12 ounces almonds. Scald and peel the almonds,split them COOKING FOR PROFIT. 117 443—Lemon Cream Candy. Take the same ingredients as for the le- mon candy preceding and boil to the same degree—that is, when the drop in a cup oi cold water sets brittle around the thin edges but still can be pressed to any shape between the thumb and finger— then add the flavoring and begin to stir it rapidly with a .spoon. In from 10 to 20 turns it will begin to turn white and creamy. Then pour it quickly on to a buttered pan, or into cream bon-bon molds made of plaster pans or formed in a tray of starch. 444—Rose Candy—Clear. 1 pound granulated sugar. 1 teacup water. 1 rounded teaspoon powdered gum arabic. $ teaspoon cream tartar. Red coloring, few drops. Rose extract to flavor. Dissolve the gum in the hot water,put in the sugar and cream tartar and boil. When it has boiled about ten minutes try a drop in a cup of cold water. When it sets hard around the edges but still so that the entire drop can be pressed to any shape between the finger and thumb it is ready. Take it from the fire, drop in the flavoring and cochineal and stir around only once or twice to mix. Pour it into the buttered plate, or shapes, or into a shallow pan, to be broken and used for mixed candies. 445—Rose Cream Candy. The same ingredients and proportions as the preceding receipt. Boil to the same degree. Then take the kettle from the fire, let it stand 5 minutes to lose some of its heat, add red coloring enough to make it pink, and a few drops of rose extract. Have a buttered dish ready, stir the candy rapidly with a spoon till it begins to change its bright appearance to a dull color, that is a sign of setting,then pour it immediately into the dish, or into cream bon-bon molds made of plaster paris, or formed in a tray of starch. 446—Butter Scotch. 1£ pounds light brown sugar. J pound best fresh butter. £ teacup vinegar. £ teacup water. Put all on to boil in a candy kettle, stir at first to mix well but not after- wards. When it has boiled 10 minutes try a drop in a cup of cold water. When it sets hard and brittle so that it breaks between the thumb and finger, pour it in a thin sheet in a buttered dish to cooL This kind cannot be stirred nor pulled, as the butter beparates from the sugar, which then granulates. Cut in squares when cold and wrap the squares in wax tissue paper. 447—Caramels—Lemon. 1 pound granulated sugar. £ cup water, 1 ounce butter—guinea-egg size. 4 drops oil of lemon. Boil all together, except the flavoring about 10 or 15 minutes. Try by drop- ping a little in cold water. It must set hard and brittle. Do not stir it at all except two turns to mix in the oil of lem- on. Pour into a buttered (hallow pan, mark off while cooling, and cut in square caramels. Wrap in wax paper. 448—Chocolate Caramels. 1 pound sugar—either brown or white will do. 1 ounce butter. Half cup milk. 2 ounces grated chocolate. Vanilla flavoring. Set the milk, butter and sugar on to boil, and stir in the grateii chocolate and flavoring. After that do not stir the mixture again or it will go to sugar in the dish. Ik)il about 10 minutes. When a drop in cold water sets rather hard but not brittle pour the candy into a dish 118 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES well buttered. Mark in little square blocks when set. Warm the dish or tin tray a little if the candy sticks. 449—Molasses Candy to Pull. 1 large coffee cup molasses. 12 ounces sugar, either brown or white. One-third cup vinegar. • Half cup water. 1 ounce butter. Put all iu a kettle and boil 15 or 20 minutes* Try in cold water. It must boil till the drops set brittle and fairly snap between the fingers. Then pour it on buttered plates. Pull. Molasses candy if not pulled but merely allowed to set on dishes is improved by having about half a teaspoonful of soda stirred in after it has been taken from the fire and before it is poured out. Fla- vorings may be added at the same time. 450—Chocolate Candy to Pull. 8 ounces sugar. 8 ounces light colored molasses or syrup. Half cup cream. 1 ounce grated chocolate. Vanilla to flavor. Boil the cream, molasses and sugar together for about 15 minutes, then throw in the chocolate and boil till the candy sets brittle in cold water. Pour on dishes, flavor when cold enough to handle and pull. 451—Fig Paste. 3 pints water. 1A pounds sugar. 3 ounces com starch. Juice of half a lemon. 6 ounces glucose. Boil sugar and water together and thicken with the starch same as in mak- ing a thickened pudding sauce, then put in the glucose and lemon juice and cook at the side of the range about 15 min- utes. Color a portion of it pink. When nearly cold mould it into any form and roll in powdered sugar. 452—Frosted Grapes. Take grapes of two colors as red To- kays and white Muscadels and pull the bunches apart into clusters of three or four grapes each. Prepare a platter with the sort of pulverized sugar known as fine granulated, and make it warm. Whip some while of eggs in a shallow bowl, dip the grapes in it, lay them on the sugar and sift more sugar on top. Lay them on sieves to dry. 453—Grapes Glazed with Sugar. D;vide some bunches of grapes into small clusters. Put into a deep saucepan, 1 pound sugar. A large cup water. £ teaspoon ere jib tartar. Stir to dissolve the sugar, then set it on to boil, as if for candy. When the syrup has boiled 10 minutes try a drop in cold water. When it sets so that it is hard to press - between finger and thumb and the edges of drops are hard and brittle it is ready. Take it from the fire, dip the clusters of grapes in (without ever stirring the candy) and lay them on dishes slightly greased to dry. Should the candy be- come set in the kettle it may have a spoonful or two of water added and be made hot again. 454—Frosted Oranges. Make plain white icing and use it to dip orange slices in just when it has be- come too thick with beating not to run off, and yet thin enough to settle to smoothness. Or, if so good that it lias already become too firm, thin it by add- ing the white of another egg or part of one. Prepare the oranges by peeling and separating by the natural divisions, with- out breaking the covering or getting the pieces wet. Have a long spliuter or COOKING FOR PROFIT. 119 thin skewer ready for each one,and fill a large bowl with sugar or salt and stick them in. Stick the point of a skewer into the edge of the orange section, djp into the frosting, push the other end of the skewer into the bowl of salt, and let the pieces hung ovei the edge of the bowl in a warm place to dry. 456—Oranges Glazed with Sugar. Oranges divided and put through the same course as grapes glazed with sugar. There has been no calculation of the cost of the articles in this division whioh come under the head of candies, because they are not necessary in counting the cost of meals and, further, because they can be purchased cheaper than tbey can be made in small quantities. For the man- ufacturers have learned now to use large proportions of glucose instead of sugar and honey, and likewise make savings in their flavorings and in buying large quantities. There are times, however, when it ia desirable to have a candy party in the bonee and, as people say, "it is nice to know how." 457—Almond Macaroons. 8 ounces granulated sugar. 4 whites of eggs. 8 ounces almonds. 1 teaspoon lemon juice or pinch of cream tartar. Put the sugar and trro of the whites in a deep bowl together, and beat with a wooden paddle about fifteen minutes, then add another white and beat again, then the lemon juice and then the last white. Crush the almonds by rolling them with the rolling-pin on the table. They i.eed not be blanched (freed from the skins) unless so preferred. When they are reduced to meal mix them with the contents of the bowl. This mixture, as well as cake icing, should always be started with bowl and ingredients all cold, for if warm they cannot be beaten to the requisite degree of firmness. Drop portions size of cherries on bak- ing pans previously .greased and then wiped dry. Bake in a slack oven, until light brown. Too much heat in the oven will cause them to melt and tbey should be little more than dried pale brown. Cost of material—sugar 5, almonds 20, white of eggs and acid 6; 31 cents for 4 dozen. Turn to star kisses, No. 5, and note the difference in cost made by the almonds. 458—Common Boxed Macaroons. 12 ounces almonds. 8 ounces granulated sugar. 4 ounces flour. 4 eggs. Pinch of salt. 1 teaspoon ammonia. Crush the almonds without taking off the skins, with a rolling-pin upon the table. Mix them and the powder, su- gar and flour together in a bowl. Drop the eggs in the middle and mix the whole into a rather soft dough. Place in lumps size of cherries on baking pans very slightly greased. Bake in a slack oven light brown. A few bitter almonds or peach kernels mixed in improves them. Cost if material—45 cents for 2 poundH or about 6 dozen. 459—Meringue Paste. This in various forms has to be men- tioned often iu these colmmns. It is al- ways white of egg and sugar, but is sometimes soft meringue as on lemon pies, aad some times nearly all sugar as in cake icing and "kisses." 460—Meringues a la Cream. 1 pound of granulated sugar. 6 whites of eggs. Flavoring extract. 3 drops of acetic acid, or a pinch of tartaric, or a little lemon juice. Put half the whites in a bowl without beating, and all the sugar with them 120 SAN FRANCISCO H01EL GAZETTES and beat together with a wooden spoon or paddle. It may save half the labor and insures success to have all the uten- sils and ingredients quite cold to begin with. It quickens the process if the beating can be done with two paddles, using both hands as regular workmen do. The bowl should be a deep one holding two quarts. The sugar aud egg at first are as stiff as dough. Beat rapidly and constantly for about 15 minutes, when it should be white and rather firm cake icing. Now add the remaining 3 whites of eggs, one at a time, and beat a few minutes be- tween each one, but before the last one is added put in the acid and the flavor- ing. The whole time of beating is about 25 minutes. An essential point is to beat the icing after the addition of each white until it will again draw up in peaks after the paddle is lifted from it, except the last white which should not be beaten much as it forms the gloss and smooth- ness ou the meringues when they are baked. Have ready some strips of writing paper two inches wide and pieces of boards (not pine) to bake the meringues on. Place spoonfuls egg-shaped on the strips of paper, not too close, smooth them with a knife, place the strips ou the boards and dry-bake them with the oven door partly open. They need to bake nearly or quite half an hour. They can be lined off the paper when cold. The boards prevent a cruut forming on the bottom and the soft remainder inside con be scooped out. Fill the meringues with whipped cream sweetened and flavored, or with wine jelly, and either place two together side by side with melted candy or icing, like an open walnut shell, and pile whipped cream or chopped jelly upon them. These meringues likewise look well singly as cups filled with brtght jellies of different colors and with ice creams. Cost of material—20 cents for 30 sin- gle meringues or "kisses." Place two together with whipped cream, sweetene\ served in- dividually from a side table. Lemonade, an unmeasured quantity well iced. Coffee: cream; powdered sugar. Cost of material: Ham, 4 lbs @ 15 60 Corned tongue, two, ©30 60 Bread, 6 loaves 25 Curled lettuce for garnish 5 Devilled ham for sandwiches 25 Butter, 4 pounds @ .25 1 00 Pickles, 1 qt. 10 Cream rolls, sixty 50 Coffee cakes, seventy-two 90 Lemon tartlets, seventy-two 90 Angel Food with thirty whites, etc, 70 Butter sponge cake, frosted 80 Strawberries, 10 qts. @ .12 1 20 Ice cream, s qts. crsam, sugar,etc 1 60 Lemons, 3 doz 75 Sugar for lemonade, four lbs 35 Cream for table, two qts. 50 Powdered sugar, two lbs 18 Coffee, one-half lb 20 ?ii 43 Sixty-nine persons partook of the sup- per of whom sixty-four paid fifty cents each—$32. There was quite enough of everything, and nothing left; the only thing requiring to be eked out by a plan of dishing up light was the ice cream. The only freezer in the house held nom- inally eight quarts. Five quarts of pure cream put in increased to seven quarts in freezing and was all the freezer would hold. Among the best things to make for such an occasion are the coffee cakes referred to. These were made like split rolls in shape, then the edges notched with a knife to make what the boys call "dog-toes," then set to rise. They open up in baking, are rich looking and when brushed over with syrup and dredged with sugar are the showiest things on the table. 509— Sandwiches of Devilled Ham. A twenty-five cent can of the devilled ham sold in the stores will spread 50 thin sandwiches. Sandwiches are never good unless they are thin. There should lie a very sharp knife used and an effort to try how thinly the bread can be sliced. Spread one slice with butter the other with ham, put them together and cut off the edges smooth and even. Uintah Lake, ( State of Cornucopia, j July 1. Came over with Mr. Farewell and his family of boys to commence the resort season. It will be a good opportunity to note the cost of first-class family living, with a regular bill-of-fare. Mr. Farewell has invented and manu- factures the only successful fire escape and in the course of the business has learned a good deal about hotels. He formerly bad a "shooting box" at the lake where he would pass an occasional week, then as the lakeshore became settled up he built a house to bring his family to for a few days. Then he built another in which they could live all summer. Then came all the relatives and friends and business acquaintances who respected Mr. Farewell, and he built still another house, wherein they could pass the sum- mer, too. But it is very likely that at the end of last summer s pleasure the hostess quit pretty tired. 1 don't know what she said, but the fact is, that this year Mr. Farewell starts in with a regular hotel register a regular manager, a regular housekeeper, a regu- lar cook and a bran new omnibus. I am afraid it will not pay him in cash, but he will get peace, rest and pleasure for his family at a less cost than Heretofore. So, this is the kitchen; a summer kitchen, truly; not ceiled, with plain boards for a floor. I am glad it is so, for there are no hotel advantages to be counted. I'll bet it is just like all the rest of the summer boarding house kitchens, on both sides of the lake, just COOKING FOR PROFIT. like the Trulirural House, over on the point; just like Swibob's on the right and Barnacle's on the left. Yes, it is good enough. And this is the stove, a number 14 or 16, or thereabout; and this is the cook's hot water tank—a big tin teakettle—the reservoir being for soft-water for the dishwashing. I suppose there has been many a fine meal cooked for a hundred or more on smaller stoves than this, and teakettle cookery is not so bad in some places. Anyway, it is as good as all the rest and the stove has an immense oven. The Palmer House at the depot has a fair-sized range and a new 30 inch broiler arrived for it on the last train, but we are not a large house like that. 510—The Question of How Many Fires. There is a wonderful disproportion in some hotels between the size of the fur- nishings and appliances and the results they are intended to secure. One of the best fitted-up, most city-like country hotels I know of, is the Devereux House in the city of Pandora, State of Cornu- copia, but it is also keeping up one of the silliest pieces of extravagance in run- ning seven fires in the kitchen for the coolcing for generally forty and never more than fifty persons; the proprietor at the same time paying $6 a cord for wood and fifteen cents a bushel for charcoal and pinching and saving in all other ways to make both ends meet. As some readers will be puzzled to see how so many fires can_ exist in one small kitchen at once, we will give a diagram to show: HOTEL KITCHEN. L k. AA—ia-foot range, steam chest and hot water tank—fire sixteen hours a day. B—30-inch broiler—fire six hours a day. C—No. 10 cook stove for batter cakes, private tea-pots, milk for toast, soft water in reservoir—fire eight, hours aday. D—Charcoal toast range — fire six hours a day. E—Two-story zinc oven dish-heatei with furnace—fire ten hours a day. F—Carving table with furnace, for keeping rolls and corn bread warm and for dinner—fire ten hours a day. G—Pastry cooks oven, zinc, with fur- nace—fire ten hours a day. HH—Hot place for the cook. SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 8 I—Hard place for the hand that keeps up all the fires. JJJ—Kitchen table; K meat block; L dead line for help. The reason why they use so many fires to feed 40 or 50 people is that once upon a time, long years ago. the house used to contain 150 people and the fires were not too many; the trade went away but still, like the Aztecs, they keep up the sacred fires. Now here is the other extreme: C T A SUMMER , KITCHEN. B A—One large cook stove. B—Big broiling hearth and gridiron to same. . . C—Hot water reservoir and tin disn- closet under. D—Meat block. E—Kitchen table. F—Dead line for help. T—Tea kettle. We all like plenty of conveniences, a place for everything, and I am not going to make an argument against plenty of range room. There must be a medium, however, somewhere between these two pictures. This stove is to serve for some number unknown except that it will never exceed fifty. How well I remem- ber the splendid and plentiful dinners that used to be cooked for as many as from 150 to 300 people on those little up- river steamboats at this very low-water time of year, on light six-foot ranges that we could almost carry around. More than half had to be done by steaming, because the ovens weie so small. Half- a-dozen entrees would be well cooked over the ash-pan full of coals with the gridiron upon them. Right now, there is the City of Fremont of the Lake Su- perior line setting a magnificent table for large numbers, though her kitchen (caDoose) is little more than a cupboard; the range one of the smallest; the pastry room positively too small for a man to stretch his arms to pull off a coat. And still they prepare all sorts oi delicacies in it. "There is more in the man than there is in the land." Supper. Only been here an hour or two and boy clamorous for pie already. "It aint good for you, honey." No provisions but some fragments of the janitor's and contents of lunch basket. Ham, cold boiled, sliced thin j4B) 10 Salt pork, fried ilb '10 Potatoes, German fried 4 Tomatoes, 1 3-lb can, seasoned 14 Bread and butter 11 Coffee, tea, milk, sugar 10 Baked custard, 2 quarts 21 Fourteen persons; 6 cents a plate. 80 511—German Fried Potatoes. This is the name the restaurant keep- ers have given to the family style of cooking potatoes. Boil potatoes with their jackets on then peel and cut in thick slices into a large frying pan. Put in drippings, or butter, or the fat from fried pork enough only to welt grease the pan; let the potatoes have plenty of time to brown on one side then shake them over till they are nicely colored all through. Sprinkle with salt. 512—Plain Baked Custard. Quickest and easiest of all puddings. Took 6 cups milk W/2 cents) 10 eggs (12j4 cents) 1 cup of sugar (4 cents) Grating of nutmeg. Beat all together with a wire egg beater, pour into an earthern dish and bake. Be careful to take it out as soon as it is set, as too long baking causes it to break and turn watery. Should be eaten cold. No sauce needed. COOKING FOR PROFIT. Breakfast. July 2nd. Minced ham on toast 20 Cold ham, thin sliced 5£ft> 10 Poached eggs, 8 orders, 16 eggs 21 Potatoes baked in milk. C3 Baking powder biscuits, 40 large 72 Butter, 15; bread, 3; cream, 10; milk, 6; coffee and tea, 4 38 $i 38 Fifteen persons; 9 cents a plate. 513—Minced Ham on Toast. It is best when freshly made. _ The ham should be sliced and then minced and served up as soon as it is hot, before it turns to a dark color. Took the last lean trimmings of the boiled ham that would not make slices, iVb, 18 cents, minced fine. Put in saucepan, butter, 1 cent, and large spoonful water, put in the ham and let get hot but not fry. Season with black pepper only. Made 12 thin slices of toast of one-half loaf bread, 2^ cents. Spread a spoonful of minced ham evenly on the toast as called for. 514—Potatoes Baked in Milk. A third of a peck of potatoes, 4 cents, pared and cut in thick slices raw into a tin baking pan. Added part of a green onion, a teaspoon salt, butter, 1 cent, and two quarts milk, 6 cents, and put in when the fire was first made, baked slowly until the milk was dried down like cream and brown on top. 515—Baking Powder Biscuits. The lady before referred to, who keeps a boarding house under difficulties, did not take kindly to my way of making biscuits, it seems too dear; but, I should like to talk it over with her. In the first place, there is so much difference be- tween the cheapness of all sorts of bread and vegetable food and the dearness of meat, that we cannot take too much pains to make the breads good in order that they may be eaten and the meat saved. Then in places where one man cook has to do as much as four of Mrs. Tingee's girls put together and be ready every time without excuses, the differ- ence in time saved between our method of pouring in the butter or lard in a melted state and adding the milk o: water to it and so getting them mingled with the flour instantly, and the other slow way of rubbing the cold shortening into the dry flour with the hands, be- comes quite an object. But I do not recommend anybody to make baking powder bread or biscuit anyway, only for convenience. It is dear and not nearly so good as yeast-raised bread and rolls. This is the way: 2 quarts or pounds flour (7 cents) 6 teaspoons, rounded up, baking powder (4 cents) % cup soft butter or laid (4 cents) Little salt 2 cups milk (2 cents) or water. Mix the powder in the flour by rapid stirring around. Pour in the shortening in a hollow made in the middle and the milk (not too cold, else it will set the shortening in lumps) and mix up soft. Press the dough together on the table and when worked tolerably smooth let it stand a minute or two and it will roll out better. Makes about two dozen biscuits, according to size. 516—The Round of Beef for Steak. We are going to get our meats from Basswood City by express twice a week or as needed, and our fresh fish from Whitefish Bay the same way. There are some fishes in Uintah Lake, but they will not come out when wanted, so we have to send further. When I was at Basswood I found the steward of the new Memphremagog House at that place was buying selected round of beef instead of loin for steaks. Not the com- mon round steaks which the butchers cut straight along good and bad together, but the tender side only, cut off the bone as neat and trim as a ham. I had pre- viously written up and advocated the use of the tender side of the round instead oi the most expensive short loins, but had in view the case of such hotels as Black's, the other rival house here at the depot, where they have ninety summei boarders, at $10 a week, and still buy SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 10 their beef by the entire side at a time, hind-quarter, fore-quarter, neck, shanks and everything. But the getting the butcher to cut out the best piece of round for a house every day was new to me. The tough side of the round, of which there is a portion in every whole round steak, is about one third of it. How the butcher disposed of that does not concern us, but he charged the steward for the other 13 cents a pound. The choice cut of the loin at the same time was costing 15 cents and one-fourth of it was bone. Twenty pounds of loin at 15 cents comes to $3. Take out the bone and you have fifteen pounds of meat that has cost 20 cents, a clear dif- ference of $7 on every hundred pounds of beef bought. This meat is not as good as the best parts of the loin but it ranks second best, and is better than the flank part which every loin cut carries. The drawback is a piece of the sinewy end of the round, about three or four pounds that become tough and dry and has to be cut off to make either corned beef or soup. There are plenty of people to whom one beefsteak seems as good as another, they are so hungry it makes no differ- ence; but, at the same time there are others whom we like to pamper with choice bits, and besides, we are loth to lose the rich loin bone for soup, so I called on the butcher and arranged that he shall send a round and a loin alter- nately, and that promises to be good enough. While that is on the way we shall nave to pick up something at "The Glen," where the village butcher kills something once or twice a week, or whenever he has nothing else to do. 517—A Meat Block. shape and divide the tender from the tough and cut oat the superfluous bones for the soup boiler. There is no roal economy in the use of meat possible without selection. Our manager has been over to " The Glen." He does not know one piece of meat from another and is proud to say so, because he is a college graduate and is going to be a lawyer, and he has brought back some beefsteak that nobody can eat. It would require a person to have cast-iron jaws. Round steaks cut low down on the leg of a very tough old ox. But we must do something with it and the wood- man must saw off the butt of a tree for a block. There is as yet no meat block in the kitchen, but one must be procured soon. The block,the same as all butchers have, but small, is the first sign of the differ- ence between professional cookery and poor Mary Jane's fried victuals. It is all Greek talking about selecting choice parts of meat to those who don't know the use or see the need of having a meat block. It is part of a cook's trade to know how to select and he must have a block to saw and chop upon, to trim and Dinner. Beefsteak stewed in gravy 20 Potatoes (4 cents) mashed with but- ter 7 Green peas from garden 15 Corn, i 2-lb can 15 Bread custard pudding (No. 03 doubled) 16 Rhubarb pie, 3 large covered 30 Milk 4 quarts 12 Coffee and tea 5 Bread and biscuits from breakfast 5 ?i *5 Fifteen persons; &}i cents a plate. 518—Beefsteak Stewed in Gravy. Took 1 y2 pounds the toughest part ot steaks, cut thin and stewed two hours in water with small bits salt pork, salt and pepper. Put a spoonful butter in large frying_ pan, dipped out pieces of steak and simmered in the butter till all light brown, added heaping tablespoon flour, stir to mix, then the reduced liquor this was stewed in, poured through a strainer. Let stew together ten minutes longer to become thick smooth gravy. Served like steak in individual dishes. 519—Covered Rhubarb Pie. Took 8 cups flour (2 pounds, 7 cents.) 2 cups butter (1 pound, 19 cents.) SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S u handsome young manager's tough beef- steak. First cut in two ounce pieces: pounded it both with back of cleaver and side until beaten out thin (it draws up thick again in cooking) drew out coals in front of fire and made the gridiron hot. Brushed both sides of steaks with brush, dipped in melted butter to prevent stick- ing to bars, broiled over the coals about three minutes. Ours are all "well-done" people, but must cook the steaks rare to be eatable, and then disguise them with gravy. 522—Beefsteak bravy. 524—Why the Codfish was Dark. Put in a pan, butter size of an egg, level teaspoon black pepper, little more of salt ana two tablespoons water; drop in the rare-cooked steaks and set the pan over the coals a minute or two. _ The gravy that runs Irom the meat mingles with the rest and makes a rich gravy that many will like better than the meat it- self. Oatmeal, i heaping cup when raw (^ lb, 2Y2 cents.) Beefsteaks twelve {1% lbs, 19 cents; gravy, 2% cents.) Codfish in cream (j£ lb codfish 5, milk and butter 2—7.) Potato cakes (mashed left from dinner, 2 cents.) French rolls, thirty-five (3 lbs flour, etc.. 15 cents.) Milk (4 qts, 12 cents.) Butter (y2 lb, 10 cents.) Coffee and tea (8 cents.) Cream to coffee and oatmeal' (1 pint, 10 cents.) Eggs, 1 order 3. 96 cents. 16 persons; 6 cents a plate. 52$**otato Cakes or Pats. "It* is a pretty good supper bill-of- fare, but wnat makes the codfish in cream so dark?" That is what the chief cook of the New Hebrides Hotel wanted to know when he stopped one night on his travels —not at this house where cream is plenty but at the Sapolio City House. No doubt but he makes it so himself and thinks it is quite a luxury, but very few do. Ope trouble was, the milk was skimmed milk and half water, besides, and wouldn't look like cream under any circumstances, and, to make it worse the codfish had never been steeped to freshen and whiten it. If the fish has been forgotten over-night put it in a large pot of cold water as soon as you remember it and let it slowly get warm over a slack fire. Before it becomes hot enough to cook it pour away that salt water and fill up again with cold and do as before, and the third time let it boil up. Pick it apart in cold water and it will not only be fresh enough but quite white. Put it in a saucepan with good milk, a little butter, add a very little flour, thickening when it boils. 525—Pickerel Fried in Butter. Afftbla mashed potatoes can be used by pressing them into little pats like bis- cuits with plenty of flour on the outside and browning first one side and then the other in a Trying-pan with very little drippings or butter. It is one of the most popular ways of serving potatoes. July 3. Breakfast. The early boys caught something this time: rose at four and coaxed two 4-Ib pickerel out of the lake. There is as yet no lard, no meat fat, bacon nor pork to fry them in; might be broiled, but conclude to fry in bntter sparingly. Cut in thin slices crosswise of the fish, pep- per and salt well, dip both sides in flour. Put into the frying pans only a little butter and fry the pieces on both sides. The pieces are cut thin to cook this way because butter browns and bums too easily to let thick slices get done through. Take upon a hot pan to drain. Send in as soon after cooking as possible. Oatmeal (2l4 cents.) Pickerel (3 lbs net @ 10 cents; butter, 5—35 cents.) Beefsteak (remainder of h. y. - m.'s tough, 12 cents.) Potatoes, baked, (3 cents^ SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S U air rushes up into the ice chamber—and the door is opened every few minutes through the day. Then it has no win- dow, and the cook having excellent reasons for keeping his meat block with- in it and cutting the meats there must keep the door open while at work. It is more than probable that several hun- dreds pounds of meat and tons of ice are lost every summer through the general unhandiness and incompleteness of the refrigerating arrangements. A very bad break of this sort exists at the Balbnggan House, where the arrangements are gen- erally very good, and a seemingly perfect square room refrigerator, with ice cham- ber above, as in the preceeding speci- men, stands conveniently at one end of the kitchen. But when the carpenter work on this one was nearly finished, it happened that no sawdust could be ob- tained. As it was winter time there was no immediate need experienced; the re- frigerator was finished up without either sawdust or charcoal being filled in the double wall and it remains so still, serv- ing as a receptacle to melt away from two to three tons of ice each week with very little effect in cooling anything in the heated season. These one-room refrigerators are, how- ever, not the sort to nave unless there can be more than one-or two of them in a house, each devoted to a different pur- pose. • The great International Cafe had to undergo two changes of proprietors and be partly remodeled within before it ever became the successful restaurant where elaborate little meals made up of the most diverse orders of viands could be obtained in a reasonably short time after the order was given. _ There being no room and no calculations made in the building for a convenient refrigerator a number of small ice boxes were first resorted to, set in all sorts of out of the way comers, one holding one thing and another something else, and it often happened that everyone of them would have to be visited before the required articles were put together. A cook can perhaps travel twelve miles up and down stairs in twelve hours or sixteen miles through several halls and passages and back again in sixteen hours if he is re- quired to do so, but he cannot cook many dinners at the same time. Thus it was when the waiters would come rushing into the kitchen singing: "Hey: where's my order? Where's the cook?' The vegetable woman would answer: "The cook? he's gone a travel- ing down to the big ice box and when he gets there he'll go excavating through the ice to find something, but I guess he'll be back in half an hour." When the source of trouble at length became fully understood at the Interna- tional Cafe5 something was pulled down and a refrigerator half as long as the kitchen was puilt along the wall opposite the range with so many compartments that it was hardly possible for an oider to come that the material could not be found in one of these drawers. Since that timej instead of one cook and a losing business, the cafe has kept six or eight busy, and had a profitable career. Quail. 1 y Steaks. i . Cutlets. e a A Fish. '! u ft) 0 M Frogs. 3 2 0 H U Crab. I w Croquettes. .,!)i((a|. .'id." 0 Tripe. Brains. l In all cases the construction ought to be planned in view of the fact that cold air descends and warm air rises. In the specimen above marked out the pro- visions do not come in contact with the ice. The long box at top is filled with broken ice and has a zinc floor and the drawers slide in and are cooled from above through slits in the zinc so made that the water cannot drip through. Of course, like all ice boxes, the walls are double and the lid which is drawn up by means of a rope and pullev is the same. rj COOKING FOR PROFIT. The common square ice box filled with broken ice is also a good keeper of fish and similar kinds of provisions that are not injured by water. Put frogs' legs, lamb's fries, brook trout and a'few such articles in muslin bags and bury them in the ice and they keep a long time and can be withdrawn easily when wanted; but, with that the usefulness of such a box ends, for meat is injured by being kept wet and by being washed after lying on ice, and pans set on top of ice are set in the wrong place, they should be be- neath it. In order that it may be clearly seen how much is required of a hotel refrigera- tor for all purposes let us look at the in- ventory of the contents of one for one day. There are: Beef loins and roasts—always keeping a supply ahead to allow it to improve by keeping and become tender. Cut meats and small meats—pans of steaks, chops and sliced ham, loin of veal, mutton, lamb, liver, etc., all car- ried in warm. Brine keg for corned beef and tongues —it must stand in a cold place or the pickle will spoil in the course of three not days and all the newly added [meat with it. Butter—one jar at least, for cooking, and probably the table butter likewise. Lard—a can put in in a melted state. Yeast—a jar just made and brought in warm. Milk and cream—the cans warm from the dairy wagon and the milk pans from the kitchen for the milk to be poured in, all brought in to be made cold. Fruit and melons—they will not be fit for the table unless cooled. Ham and comed beef for supper—just out of the broiler and brought m smok- ing hot. Roast meats lelt from dinner—brought in warm from the carving table also gravies and sauces, a dish of fish and plates of croquettes or other side dishes to be saved for another day. Potatoes cooked to be ready to slice up for breakfast, dishes of peas and corn, half a pudding, some cooked codfish, a dozen bunches of celery, two or three pies. These things and more brought in for this meal and soon taken out for the next cause the ice house door to be al- ways in motion. Some reader will say this thing or that shall not be put in, but managed some other way? but it is futile fighting against the inevitable. Perhaps a gallon of boiling hot mush will be stopped at the door and forbidden to be put in: but, will be left on the kitchen table ana never be cold enough to slice and fry in the morning and so next night the re- frigerator will catch it. That is what it is for. _ There should be a good one and large, if only one is to be built. 527— A Good Hotel Refrigerator: The annexed diagram explaining the form and construction of a refrigerator that was found to meet all the require- ments at a certain popufcr hotel, was printed some time ago in "Hotel Meat Cooking" since when I have heard of two or three hotel keepers, who could be named, having built refrigerators in their houses after that pattern and they approve it. It seems advisable therefore to reproduce it here, as it is at least a safe pattern and not like a thing untried. The dimensions might be varied to suit. This gives a front view as the interior appears when the doors are open. The height inside is six feet: depth, front to back, five and a half; the middle com- partment for the ice is three feet wide; the cold rooms on each side three and a half. The drip from the ice is led away by a zinc drainer, and the space below is both dry and cold. The outside walls are, of course, double, and filled in with eight inches of dry sawdust. This re- frigerator is built close by the outer door on one side of a cellar basement, the storeroom being directly opposite. It is elevated a step or two from the door. SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 16 — s B A 1 C says Mr. Farewell, "how much ice will it take?" "You will require two tons a week, be- cause, out of the same stock of ice the ice-pitchers will be filled, ice cream made, and ice for the_ various other needs taken. An ordinary two-horse wagon bed full is about a ton of blocks of ice." 528— Potato Cream Soup Without Meat. A Place for the blocks of ice, opening in front. BB Cold rooms fitted with shelves. Front doors. C Space under ice floor and zinc drainer where milk and butter may be kept. Front door. DD Small doors opening into the ice box letting the cold air in. EE Small doors open into a ventilating pipe letting the warm air and vapor out. Shelves. One of the two rooms can be used to hang joints of meats upon hooks set un- der the shelves and be opened only at long intervals while the other side used for various purposes may have the door in almost constant swing, and instead of letting a warm blast be forced through the ice every time the door is banged, a self-acting spring door over the aperature D closes with the momentary pressure. Milk and butter easily take the flavors of other articles of provision such as onions and celery, stored with them; hence, the use of having a special com- partment for them in the refrigerator. It is, unfortunately, a very common supposition that the cellar is the best place for the refrigerator, while, on the contrary, it is generally the very worst. A halt-cellar or basement partly above ground and with a free circulation of air, is likely to be the best; and, yet, some of the cooling rooms, which it is a pleas- ure to enter, where everything has the cool, fresh and solid appearance of a dry winter's day, though the mercury outside has climbed up into the nineties, are built in recesses left for them in the walls of the buildings on the same levels as the dining room and kitchen. "When I get my refriergator built Neither meat nor soup (.vegetables in house. Took: 8 potatoes i quart skimmed milk. i quart water y2 cup butter Carrots and onions from garden, very small, about Yz dozen Salt, pepper, slight grating of nutmeg. Use two saucepans. Boil the potatoes in salted water in one; the vegetables, cut or chopped, in water in the other. When the potatoes are well done drain them, mash with the milk and butter and stir through a seive or strainer into the other saucepan containing the vegetables The soup should be of the consistency and appearance of cream with the minced vegetables showing plainly. A little flour thickening may be needed or more milk. Dinner. ,"l Potato cream soup (3 quarts, 10 cents.) Pickerel, boiled, butter sauce (30 cents.) Roast loin of mutton (5 lbs, 55 cents.) Potatoes steamed and browned (3 cents.) Tomatoes stewed (1 can, is cents.) Bread custard pudding with sauce (No. n3, 9 cents.) Cherry p:es (2 made of 1 can, 14 cents; crusts 4 cents.) Milk, coffee, tea, butter, bread (20 cents.) $1 60; 17 persons, g}£ cents a plate. Meat arrived at noon. COOKING FOR PROFIT. Loin of mutton charged @ n cents. Leg of veal @ 12y2. Beef loin @ 15. Liver at 12J£.' Sweetbreads free. These prices are too high. They are the prices that prevailed in Spring, but meat becomes cheap in July if ever. Write to the butcher. Box of fish packed in ice arrived, charged 19 lbs @ 7 cents, and expressage to pay. . , So we are to have the refrigerator of the last pattern shown in diagram built in a room back of kitchen, where for- merly was a bedroom. The elevation is right for easy drainage. A grove of pine and black oak shades the roof. Supper. First meal that caused talk. Superb French rolls; fine creamery butter. Not much besides, but these are a feast by themselves. Calfs liver, fried, plenty of gravy (10 cents.) Cold roast mutton from dinner (charged that meal.) .,,, , Baked potatoes (18, 3 cents—half left.) Molasses pound cake, warm (ij^ lbs, 14 cents.) French rolls (30, 12 cents.) Butter (12 ounces @ 24, 18 cents.) Milk (3 qts., 19 cents.) Cream, coffee, tea, etc., (19 cents.) 85 cents; 17 persons, 5 cents a plate. 529—Fried Liver and Gravy. Only about half the people anywhere will order liver when there is an alter- native of cold meat or something else. Cut about 8 thin slices, which will be little over half a pound.. Lay them in a frying pan with some drippings or bacon fat and fry brown on both sides. Season with salt and pepper while cooking. Take up the liver and put into the pan a heaping lablespoonful of flour and when that has been stirred around, a cupful ot hot water. Let boil up and strain over the liver. 530—How To Bake Potatoes. there is no better way than baking or roasting either for potatoes that cost five for a cent or large truffles that cost five dollars each. Pick out the largest and smoothest potatoes to bake because any size will do to pare and mash and even if a person should waste part of a too large one on his plate it would slill be the cheapest dish of the meal. After washing well cut off the ends of the potatoes. It may not make them any mealier, although some suppose it does; but, it makes them look better, and as if they had been cared for. Put them in the oven as a rule just one hour before the meal. When done instead of sliding them into a hot closet or under the stove to become dry and worthless, take up each one in a damp] towel in the hand and press it gently together and after that cover the pan containing them with the same damp cloth and Keep them warm. 531—Molasses Pound Cake. Though there are fifty other good ways This will be found quite an acquisition to the list of cheap and easy cakes: 1 cup sugar, small—6 ounces. 1 cup butter—6 ounces. 1 cup molasses—12 ounces. 1 cup milk. 2 eggs. 6 cups flour—iyi pounds. 1 teaspoon each of ground ginger and dnnamon. Make the butter soft and mix it and sugar, molasses, milk, eggs, and spices together in a pan. Mix the powder in the flour, then stir that in and beat up thoroughly. Bake in two small cake moulds. Makes 3 lbs @ 9 cents a pound. This cake can and ought to be made with a cup of sour milk instead of sweet, and a teaspoon of soda instead of the powder—only sour milk is not always at hand to use. 532—French Rolls. As a rule a pound of light dough makes 10 rolls of such a size that most persons take two at a meal; but, as it takes half a pound of liquid to make dough of one pound of flour if we have SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S rS three pounds of dough and make thirty rolls of it they contain only 2 pounds of flour, costing, probably, 7 cents. The cost is increased by a few enriching in- gredients and the yeast. To make 10 or 12 rolls out of a pound of dough, however, we must raise them as light and large as it is possible to do, like the best baker's buns for lightness, only bet- ter eating, and we have no calculations made for poor Mary Jane's squatty little lumps of dough that she calls rolls. It seems so easy to make fine rolls, es- pecially with the comptessed yeast that has of late years come into general use that the wonder is how anybody can make bad ones even if they try. Gen- erally the failure seems to be owing to not using enough yeast, not setting the dough in a suitable place to rise and not giving the rolls time to become as light as they might be in the pans before baking. I think if those who keep boarders could know what an advantage this cheap luxury of fine rolls is to a house—even to the extent of bringing a higher price for board—there would be a general cultivation of the art of domestic bread making. It does no good to make fine rolls only once in a while and miss the mark twice as often; and, perhaps that is where the difficulty lies, the con- stant care to do always the same way at different times being so hard to exer- cise. 1 am asked "Do you put eggs in the rolls," and the answer is no—not in the every day kind that is good enough for anybody all the year round; but, there are varieties of rolls of different degrees of richness that are made with eggs, such as butter rolls and tea cakes. It is not so much what they contain as the way the dough is managed that makes them good. Take: 2 quarts or pounds, or 8 cups flour. 2 large cups sweet milk (water will do.) 1 cent's worth compressed yeast. 1 tablespoon sugar. 1 y2 tablespoon sait. Butter or lard size of an egg—2 ounces. If the rolls are for 6 o'clock supper, any time in the forenoon will do to mix the dough. Noon is a good time in summer. Make a hollow in the flour, dissolve the yeast in the milk and pour it in, add the sujar, salt and half the shortening, stir up into stiff dough, turn it out on the table and work it well with the knuckles. Slightly grease the bot- tom of the mixing pan which you have scraped out clean, press the lump of dough down into the greased pan and turn the greased side up—which prevents a crust drying on the dough while it is rising and helps the appearance of the rolls. Then set the pan on an upper shelf where it will be warm and let stay there until 3 o'clock. At that time work the dough on the table again and put it back to rise another hour or more. Work the dough again with the knuckles, roll it out to a thin sheet. Brush over with the remaining butter or lard melted, cut out with an oval cutter, double over, place in a pan far enough apart not to touch, rise an hour and bake in a hot oven about eight or ten minutes. Brush over with clear warm water when done. T Mf. Tingee looked incredulous when I told her to bake these rolls only 8 or 10 minutes—thought they would not be well baked but they will. Had to explain that the lighter an article is the quicker it bakes—that a souffle or meringne may be done through in three minutes; a per- fect sponge cake will bake in 20 minutes because it is light and full of air spaces while a fruit cake of the same size requires 2 hours. Rolls are spoiled by dry baking. Hotel cooks have their ovens hot, hotter, hotest. There is a patent roll cutter made and for sale, which forms the rolls of the right shape and makes the depression across the middle to fold them over by. The size of the rolls may be governed by the thickness or thinness to which the sheet of dough is rolled. In order that these or any sort of rolls may have a good reg- ular shape it is necessary after the dou^h has been kneaded and rolled, to let it alone a few minutes while you get pans ready or do something else that it may lose the elasticity which causes it to pull back out of proper form. 533—About Compressed Yeast. There are but few towns now where compressed yeast cannot be obtained, he express service being so nearly uni- 19 COOKING FOR PROFIT. muddy, inky fluid we had before, while that in the pot it was made in remained good and bright the whole day. The worriment about poor coffee is almost universal. The egg-clearing way is well-known, but there is, even after that, some attention to be paid to the vessel it is kept in. It may be that the good effect ot the egg was greatest in coating over the inside of the coffee pot it was cooked in. At this place eggs are cheap and we shall use whatever may be necessary to keep the coffee bright and clear, and not buy an urn. The 'bus has brought a passenger. Put him on the new register, quick! A majestic looking gentleman, and they say he is all the way from Rome. Later. The passenger only came to try to con- tract to deliver us a carload of water- melons every week. The extent of our business will not warrant such a contract at present. I would rather have fifteen cents' worth of onions, ten of turnips and ten of carrots and parsley for my soups. He thinks we might club to- gether with the other houses. After dinner he will go and see them and then he starts back to his home in Rome (Ga.) 558—Cocking Sweetbreads. It is the making of sweetbreads to press them to a flat shape between two pans after boiling them, and let them get cold that way. As a rule they are always boiled before being otherwise cooked; not but what they may be cut up and stewed, or split qpen and broiled without brevious cooking if they are calves' sweetbreads, and tender, still it is best to do the other way and the largest and finest that people will naturally select for the best are the very ones that need about an hour's boiling to make them tender. Sweetbreads are the whitish pieces of soft meat that look like fat, found near the throat and the heart of the animal the largest coming from the heart. They are used extensively as a fancy meat for little side dishes. When they first come from the butcher's put them in cold water and after steeping a while set them over the fire in a saucepan of water to cook for an hour. As they have an insipid taste that is not improved by keeping, a little vine- gar should be put in the water they are boiled in—about four tablespoons—and some salt. Take them up in a pan or dish, put another on topoftht.m and a heavy weight like a pail of water on that. When cold you can split them into thin slices and trim off the rough edges. Dinner. Roast Mutton No. 185—4^ lbs, 45 cents. Sweetbreads fried in butter sweet- breads worth 30, and butter 5, 35 cents. Green pease (small quantity from garden for garnishing sweetbreads, worth 20 cents.) Tomatoes (1 can, 15 cents.) Potatoes mashed with milk and butter (6 cents.) Rhubarb pies (No. n4—3 large, covered; cost 27 cents, 18 cuts; 1%cents each.) Cup custard (No. 136—used six eggs to a quart milk, made 3 pints, 18 custard cups, 15 cents.) Milk and cream average 21, butter and bread average 12 cents. $1 96; 21 persons, little over 9 cents a plate. 559—Sweetbreads With Green Pease. Have the sweetbreads previously cooked and pressed >No. 558.) Split each in two, dredge with a little pepper and salt then dip both sides in flour. Put a lump of butter in a frying pin to melt over the fire and lay the sweetbreads in when it begins to froth. Cook them a nice brown on both sides. Have j?reen pease ready cooked and season with salt only. Serve one sweet- bread to each disn, placed diagonally with a spoonful of pease across each end and a teaspoonful of the butter they were fried in (beuerre noir) for sauce. S.4N FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S so Bread (15 cents.) Cream (1 qt., 20 cents.) Coffee (one-third pound, 10 cents.) Butter, sugar, etc. (20 cents.) Total dinner, $3 26; 30 persons, 11 cents a plate. In this case it turned out as was half expected for at just about the time that the regular dinner was ended there came two little parties of five and six persons respectively, making eleven more to fur- nish dinner to. Such little parties com- ing on the heels of a meal are generally profitable to the hotel keeper. On this occasion there was enough soup, coffee, potatoes, pudding and pie remaining ana the fish and mutton chops specially cooked made up a good and plentiful dinner at an additional expense of less than a dollar. The party of eleven con- tributed 50 cents each, the regular price per mesl. In calculating quantities to be pre- pared it is never necessary to count one portion of every dish to each person. Perhaps some who take fish will decline meat, or will take com and not potatoes, and only half the number will call for pie. 536—Tomato and Green Pea Soup. One of the best looking soups when the pease are green and the soup is rich colored. This day it was the soup of necessity rather than choice for in truth we had a half can of tomatoes (8 cents) and nothing else for soup unless the late and neglected garden would yield some trifles. Found a few green pease, not enough to use as a vegetable, but about two cupfuls (10 cents) are plenty in soup, also some carrots and onions as thick as straws. Where there are no herbs, or cloves, or parsely a very small quantity of the feathery green carrot leaves may be used with advantage, minced and dropped in the soup just before serving. Made tomato soup as directed at No. 166, and let the green pease cook in it about one-halt hour. Made four quarts and used one-half can tomatoes. Little burnt sugar to improve the color. 537—Stuffed Fillet of Veal. (No. 171) the fillet of veal being the same as the round of beef and solid meat. The dressing is pressed into the cavity left by removing the bone, and inclosed also by the skirt of fat, which should be left on the meat drawn close and tied around with twine. The surplus stuffing may be baked in a small pan and served with the meat and gravy. For best stuffing see No. 62. Half the quantity will serve for veal, and an egg added will make it richer. Drippings, lard or butter can be used instead of suet. 538—Cream Curd Padding The same in the main as the brisket Our wretched cellar sours the milk with wonderful rapidity. Lucky thing milk is cheap at this place. This morn- ing used some curdled milk for batter cakes and still there remained 4 quarts more, and part of it was cream. It would make good cream cheese or smear- kase if it could be spared, but there be- ing none of the usual pudding ingre- dients in the house this comes in oppor- tunely for a good pudding. Curd from the cheese vats, that has been curdled with rennet and is not sour, is the chief ingredient in the genuine cheesecakes of old Maryland cookery; mixtures made too rich for everyday dinners. This is of the same kind and can be baked without a crust of pastry; it is a pudding and not a tart or pie. 1 pound or little more of scalded curd. j6 teaspoon soda. % cup sugar1. l4 cup butter. 1 cup fine or minced bread crumbs. 1 cup milk. Nutmeg or other flavoring. 3 eggs. It does not make much difference how the ingredients are put together, but it is best to first take the dry articles and pound them smooth and then add the eggs and milk. T'o obtain the curd set the pan con- taining a gallon of curdled milk on the stove when it is not very hot and let come to boiling heat, then pour it into a fine strainer or in a napkin to drain. There will be nearly a two-quart pan of pudding from the above ingredients.. Bake light brown and serve with a sauce. SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 22 day bill and so on through the week— why would not that do here?" "Would not do at all because of the location for one thing, for it will often happen that not a single dish that is on your bill-of-fare can be obtained when wanted; but it would not do for other reasons, because such a way defeats the object of having a bill and makes the hotel like an almshouse or House of Correction where they have a certain fare for each day; their boiled beef day. their suet pudding day, their pork and beans day and so on perpetually." Then the housekeeper spoke up: "At the Water Cure Home at Camp- meetingville in the Great Frying Pan Valley we used toget along very well with having the waiters call off what we had, but then we never had but two kinds; still, that seemed to be enough." "Ah, yes," chimed in the proprietor facetiously, "but this will not be a water cure so much as a sort of hunger cure, and we must have variety. Ifwe don't feed the people well they may be going over to the Trulirural House where they can board cheaper." "It is impossible," the cook said, "to set a superior table and distance rival houses or to get the full credit of your more liberal providing without a bill-of- fare. Suppose we have but two kinds of meat, there will be and ought to be about six kinds of vegetables, which are cheap and attractive if properly cooked and which make up a good meal, and it would be tedious to call off so many while very few at table would really have opportunity enough to choose what they wished as they do from a printed list. There is just one other way; that is, to call the meats only, and set out the full array of everything else that is ready in small dishes. Plenty of people like that way best, for they get plenty set before them and eat whatever strikes their fancy. The great objection to it is the great waste entailed. The perfection of all plans is to have a new bill-of-fare printed for each meal that comes, break- last, lunch, dinner, supper, always new. That method leads to the smallest pro- portion of waste and greatest freshness of cooked dishes. The expense of so much printing and the fact of there be- ing so little to change in the breakfast and supper menu leads nearly all hotel keepers to get the bills for these meals printed once for all, the same bill for weeks or months, while they change the dinner bill every day. Rather than do this I would 'call off the breakfast and supper and have but few dishes; for dinner, as said before, a written or printed bill-of-fare is indispensable." Breakfast. Baked Pork and Beans. Tea, Coffee and Chocolate. MISCELLANEOUS. White Rolls. Muffins. Corn Bread. Griddle Cakes. Dry Toast. Milk Toast Buttered Toast. Chipped Beef with Cream. Oat Meal Mush. BROILED. BeefSteak, plain or with onions. Mutton Chops. Pork Chops. Breskfast Bacon. Ham. Veal Cutlets. EGGS. Boiled. Fried. Scrambled. Poached. Omelet. FRIED, Liver and Bacon. Codfish Balls. Fresh Fish. Mush. Sausage. Corned Beef Hash. POTATOES. Baked, Fried, Lyonaise, Stewed. In order to point out the the detriment these unchangeable breakfast cards are to the quality of the dishes served, here is a copy of one that was in use at a good two-dollar-a-day hotel. There are so many articles offered to the person at table, there are too many, but no more than rival houses offer and no more than is expected. R was a rule of that land- lord that nothing must be crossed off his bills. "Our list is so small," he would say "that we cannot afford to drop even one dish from it." Consequently, although the meats might be cooked only as wanted there were many other articles that were necessarily prepared before- hand and by the usual contrariness of the luck when the corned beef hash the corn bread, codfish balls, or what- ever else was fresh made, as good, as COOKING FOR PROFIT. *3 bright colored, as rich, as well flavored as it could be there would not be one order for it; but, when it had been put away, brought out again and warmed over, lost its first good quality and looked common and stale, then by the same blessed luck, everybody in the dining- room would be seized with a desire to have some. Did we try another way and make only five codfish balls instead of twenty—determined not to have any left over—that very morning at least twenty- five people would call for codfish balls at once. But here at Uintah Lake we will not have any breakfast or supper bill and you shall see how we will make the cod- fish balls go, each one to its proper plate. Mr. Farewell's consultation, as it seemed to be, with the manager and the house-keeper was only a pretense for the purpose of reconciling them to the daily task in store for one or other of them of writing in the blank menu for dinner, for he had long ago decided that point for himself and taken pride in selecting a handsome heading of fine type with flourishes, which announced that this was the dinner, on such a date, at The Eyrie, Uintah Lake, State of Cornuco- pia, John Smith Farewell, proprietor: Dinner. ROAST. BOILED. SOUP. FISH. ENTREES. VEGETABLES. PASTRY AND DESERT. Assorted Nuts. Raisins. Tea. Coffee. That is a copy of our blank bill-of- fare, as simple as could be made, having the headings, and blank spaces for writing in. It seems, at first glance, that a number of stand-by dishes such as roast beef and mashed potatoes might as well be printed in and save so much writing; curiously enough, however, ex- perience shows that your boarders look only at the writing and you seldom get a call for anything that is in print. Let there be stewed tomatoes printed in place under the vegetable heading and one can will last a week, but write stewed tomatoes and you need two cans in one day. It should be all written or all printed. Breakfast. July 5- ,. , No oatmeal in house. Veal steaks (2 lbs, 26 cents.) Mutton steaks or rough chops (2 lbs, 22 cents.) Butter gravy for meats and eggs (6 oz, 7 cents.) Stowed eggs (22 eggs, 28 cents.) Potatoes minceci and browned. (7 cents.) Biscuits (14 fresh made, 8 cents.) Rolls (14 left last meal warmed over.) Batter cakes (No. 402—1 qt, 8 cents.) Coffee 5, tea 1, milk 12, cream 10, syrup 10, butter y2 lb, 10, bread baked 15- $1 69; 21 persons, 8 cents a plate. 540—Broiled Mutton Chops. Lay the chops on a plate and touch both sides with the butter brush. Broil over clear coals about five minutes, turn- ing over only once. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a tin pan, together with as much water and a pinch of salt and pepper. Shake together and when the chops are done let them lie in the pan and form their own gravy. 541—Stewed Eggs. These are eggs poached, a large num- ber at once, then partly chopped, SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S H seasoned and dished up by spoonfuls. Drop into a saucepan of water that is boiling gently (See No. 93) about a dozen eggs and cook medium or until the yolks begin to harden, then either drain away the water or dip the eggs into another vessel. Throw in a few small lumps of butter, salt, and if you have white pep- per a little of that. Cut each egg in four with the edge of a spoon. 542—Potatoes Minced and Browned. edge, and you have a long roll of dough. Place it in the tin and brush over with the brush dipped in a teaspoonful of melted lard and set on a warm shelf to rise. The use of being particular how you fold up the dough is that if done right the loaves rise even and smooth withouta break, but if wrong they rise and split open at one end. This is a dainty sort of bread that makes baker's bread ashamed. Dinner. At No. 82 find potatoes minced and browned in entire dishes for restaurant orders. At No. 534 find potatoes minced, in cream. Another way is to put the minced cold potatoes in a baking pan, mix in a little milk, butter, pepper and salt and brown the surface in the oven. Serve spoonfuls in flat dishes. 543—To Warm Over Rolls. Take rolls left over from the previous meal, place in a pan and cover with a wet cloth, half a cotton flour sack or piece of old table cloth dipped in water will do. Set in the oven and by the time the cloth is dry the rolls will be as good as if fresh baked—for such as are not critical judges of fresh bread. Some nights when the bands are play- ing and rockets flying it is exceedingly inconvenient to stay at home and mix dough, and a pan of rolls left over on purpose may do to satisfy the inexorable breakfast bill-of-tare at such a time. Lake trout, baked, gravy, (2 lbs, 20 cents.) Veal pot pie (meat, 24, crust, 4—28 cents.) Potatoes mashed, browned (5 cents.) No other vegetables in house. No butter in house. Cherry pies (2 with 1 can cherries, 14; crust, 4; sugar, 2—20 cents.> Cottage pudding, hot cream sauce (2 lbs, 20 cents.) Milk, cream, coffee, tea (26 cents.) $i 19; 20 persons, 6 cents a plate. That meal used up last of first lot of meat except sweetbreads reserved. Bought jar fresh butter at neighboring creamery at 20 cents a pound. Bought canned goods at country store. 545—Veal Pot Pie. 544—Fine Bread. If such good bread can be afforded the receipt for French rolls (No. 532) may be used. That quantity makes two loaves. After it has been kneaded on the table the last time, as if for rolls, divide it in two and work up into round shape, then let them remain a few minutes while you grease two long and deep bread tins. Take your loaves, the rough under side up, and press a lone depression down the middle with the knuckles. Then fold over one edge into the depression and press that down; then the other Put into a saucepan the pieces of veal that will not slice into neat cutlets, rinse off with cold water, then fill up and boil about half an hour. Take up the meat and cut it all into neat pieces as near one size and shape as can be, put in another saucepan or other pan and pour the liquor it was boiled in to it through a fine strainer. Put in a slice of salt pork, an onion, half blade of mace or half tea- spoon of powdered sage whichever may be at hand, for all are good seasonings for veal; boil half an hour longer, add salt and pepper and thicken with flour mixed with water. Then drop spoon- fuls of dough on the surface, set in the oven and let cook about twenty minutes. Milk may be added to the liquor some- times for a change, making a white stew and then there should be a little green parsley in it. V COOKING FOR PROFIT. The use of taking out the meat and cutting when half cooked is for the bet- ter appearance on the dishes, as the pieces keep their shape and_ may be placed two in a dish with a light dum- Ung on top. [46—Pot Pie Dumplings. To make them, whether dropped far apart as dumpling6 or close together as one covering of crust, so that they will remain li^ht after cooking and not go down lil:e lumps ot lead, it is necessary to mix the dough so soft that it must be taken up and dropped with a spoon. All that is needed is: 2 cups flour. i heaping teaspoon baking powder. Salt. i cup water. But sour milk and soda can be used and save powder. And to make a rich yellow sort an egg, or two yolks may be added. Mix the powder in the nour, pour in the water and stir hard for one minute then drop into the boilng stew. 547—Cottage Pudding. This, as well as the molasses pound cake is a great acquisition to the list of cheap cakes, for a good sort of cake it is, although served as a pudding. Some of the large city bakeries are selling it now in different forms (See No. 285.) It is good likewise as a sally-lunn for breakfast, being not too sweet or rich, but short, light and wholesome: 1 cup sugar— y2 pound. y? cup butter—% pound. 6 eggs. 2 cups milk—a pint. 3 large teaspoons powder. 6 cups flour—11/2 pounds. Make up like pound cake by cream- ing the butter and sugar together, add the eggs two at a time and beat in well, then the milk. Mix the powder in the flour and stir in. Heat the mixture well with the spoon. This makes two cakes in the common shallow tin baking pans about ten inches long. Let the batter be less than an inch in depth to bake easily, and sift some granulated sugar on the surface be- fore putting in the oven and the cakes will come out nicely glazed. One will serve to slice for pudding with sauce, the other for cake. About 3^ pounds costs 28 to 30 cents. 548—Cream Sauce for Puddings. Boil rich milk or cream with stick cin- namon or broken nutmeg in it and sugar to_ sweeten. Stir in a spoonful of starch mixed with cold milk. Supper. No meat in the house, b'rt some fish left yet. Good country lake house sup- per. Fried trout (18 pieces, 4^ lbs gross, @ 8, 36; 2 eggs and cornmeal 4; lard, M> lb, 7—47 cents.) Potatoes plain boiled (3 cents.) French rolls (24, 10 cents.) Cherries (2 cans, 28 cents.) Cake (No. 547—13 cents.) Butter 10, milk and cream 20, coffee, tea, sugar 9 (39 cents.) $1 40; 20 persons, 7 cents a plate 549-Is Fish Cheaper Than Meat? A few meals back some pickerel, home caught, is credited in our account, to the boys, as worth ten cents a pound, that is net weight. That is what the fish we get by express seems to cost as it is put in the pan. It is bought at White- fish Bay at seven cents, packed in ice and boxed; but it has to be expressed over two railroads in some way that makes it pay double rate, and twenty- five pounds costs 50 cents, and there is another carriage from the depot. Al- though they come clean as to the in sides, the heads, fins and backbones take away one-sixth of the weight, on an average, of different kinds offish. Therefore, 25 lbs @ 7 cents and 50 cents added costs, $2 25. Take off one-sixth in trimming before cooking and we have scarce 21 lbs of fish for that sum. it being nearer eleven cents per pound than ten. As there is waste, likewise, in all other kinds SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 36 of meat, the only fair comparison that can be made is with the solid, boneless round of beef (No. 516) which we buy at thirteen cents. There is then a differ- ence of three cents in favor of the fish, but if we cook it by breading and frying, 1 he cost of fish and meat is about the same and our fish supper with fruit and cake is not one of the cheapest meals. The conditions are, of course, only local but are stated at length because they are likely to be much the same at a great number of resort houses. 550—Fried Lake 1 rout. None of these tea-kettle cooks, either in this house or around at the neighbors', I find, have ever seen frying by immer- sion in hot fat before. Mrs. Tingee, too, I remember, although she had kept house fifteen years and a boarding house ten, had never known that pota- toes could be cooked by dropping them raw into hot fat—as French fried, and Saratoga chips—neither did the two ladies who boarded with her, the retail merchant's wife and the photographer's wife, they all thought that in every case potatoes must be boiled first. After thinking it well over I concluded not to mention frying fish that way to her, be- ing afraid to go into her kitchen and take her whole pound of lard at once, if I could ever find so much there, and proceed to make it hissing hot over the fire, because it is dangerous to have a kettle of hot lard on the fire and a lady fainting around, both at one time. We grow reckless of lard where we cook tor a number of people every day, who pay a fair price for board and have something good to eat, and generally, besides, have a jar full of roast meat fat and melted suet that helps out without depending upon it except for a tew things that must be fried of a good clean color. It does not really consume much lard or fat to fry in it, as the same can be used several times over if care is taken not to let it burn black, still, in counting the cost it has to be remembered that the pound of lard put in the frying pan becomes worse and darker with every frying and at last has to be thrown away. Cut the fish in pieces across without splitting it, if the full flavor of the fish is desired rather than the fried crust. Beat one or two eggs with half their bulk of water. Pepper and salt the pieces of fish well, dip them in the egg and then in corn meal, coat well by pressing, then drop into lard that is hiss- ing hot and fry brown, allowing 8 or 10 minutes for the fish to get done to the bone. Dredge a little fine salt and keep hot in a pan in the open oven until served To fry without using eggs, mix 1 cup of flour and 2 cups powdered crackers together. Dip the pieces of fish in milk, then in the mixture, coat well, dippinc twice if necessary, and fry brown. (See Nos. 13, 98 and 314.) 551 otatoes Plain Boiled. To go with hot fried fish there is no form of potatoes better than plain boiled. Pare them first and put on in salted water. When done drain off the water and serve the potatoes out of the sauce- pan as wanted. "Roll on, thou deep and dark blue ocean, Roll!" Cold day for resort keepers. Fierce north-west gale been blowing all day. This green little two-mile lake has been trying to lash itself into a rage and swamped all the skiffs. Second lot of meat: Ham charged @ 15 cents. Mutton @ 10. Loin beef@ 12}^. Rib roast beef @ i2j£. Bacon @ 12 J£. Salt Pork @ 10. Liver @ 12^. Sweetbreads, 1 K> free. Some reduction in prices' from former lot, but too high yet, and the loin has over five pounds of suet and waste fat and mutilated kidney in it, and they sent us no lamb. Breakfast. July 6. Oatmeal (3 cents.)' COOKING FOR PROFIT. Ham broiled (6 slices, n oz. net, equal to i lb gross, 15 cents.) Mutton chops broiled (11 chops, 2 lbs, 20 cents.) Poached eggs on toast (16 eggs, 20, and toast buttered 7—27 cents.) Broiled potatoes (few, and baked 12, 5 cents.) Batter Cakes (1 qt. with 2 eggs, No. 403, 10 cents.) Syrup (10 cents.) Butter (average of many meals, 12 oz., 15 cents.) Milk and cream (average, 21 cents.) Coffee and tea (average, 5 cents.) French rolls (16, 8 cents.) $1 39 j 20 persons, 7 cents a plate. 552- Cutting Up a Ham. One of the most serious calamities that ever betalls Mary Jane is the sending her a whole ham to cut up, all by her- self: it is a calamity to the ham, too, when she has whittled it and hacked and torn k with her little case-knife that she tries to sharpen on the edge of the stove. Her reliance and the reliance of most private families is upon the butcher gen- erally, to slice the ham before sending it, but in that case good ham is never as good as it might be because it is cut too thick and being sawed through the bone from one end to the other many of the slices are of such a sort that a little of it goes a Ion? way. We have in our kitchen a meat block, a meat saw and a small cleaver, besides good knives. These things are indispensable both for econ- omy and good quality of the dishes we cook. Without them our choice ham that costs 15 cents a pound gross, and when the bone and rind is counted out, costs somewhere between 20 and 25 cents, might all have to be whittled away in shreds and shavings without a respect- able slice among them. The best and most saving method of dealing with a bam is as follows: First, saw off the butt end of the ham as shown above, taking the projecting point of bone that is easily found for a guide where to cut. The lower wood- cut shows the inside of the butt where it has been cut and the black lines show where the knife must go to separate the meat on both {sides from the irregular shaped bone. There are then two pieces of ham, all meat, ready to be cut in slices, the thinner the better, with a sharp knife. Then cut down the large or mam portion as the line shows, from the shank to the bottom. There is a bone that guides the knife down that mark. All the piece on the right is solid meat; the best part of the ham, and makes the handsomest slices. The other side can be sliced partiway or be used for boiled ham.' '553—Broiled Ham: Strange it seems, but it willnot do to make a regular practice of broiling ham over the stove Dearth because it ruins the stove for drawing. After broiling a lot of ham where the smoke from the SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S s8 broiling goes into the draught, the fire will go almost out and something gen- erated by the salt in the stove pipe pre- vents the fire being good again for a whole day. A few slices for a family may be broiled without the bad effect being noticeableibut when the house is full of people it may save trouble to re- sort to frying. It was thought here that charcoal would have to be provided, but the wood embers drawn out into the ash pan prove to be sufficient to broil over, thus far. Slice the ham thin and broil—if you can broil it—over clear coals about five minutes, turning it to get a good even brown on both sides. and if done before time to dish up can be kept hot in a pie-pan without spoiling. 554—Poached Eggs on Toast. A neat little way of poaching eggs for a few people is to take tin muffin rings, the kind without bottoms, put them in a frying pan of salted boiling water and break an egg into each one and let it cook. Take up ring and all with a cake turner or shallow perforated ladle and take off the muffin ring after the eeg has been placed safely on its piece of buttered toast. We call this good for a few people, because when there are many it takes too long. (See No. 96.) 555— Fancy Toast for Poached Eggs. Cut for each dish three slices of bread very thin and quite square in form. Toast them, butter them, place one square in the middle of the dish. Cut the other two squares across corner- wise and you have four triangular pieces to place around that in the dish, the points oucwards. 556—Broiled Potatoes. 557- Trouble With the Coffee. They can be done in two ways, either cold boiled potatoes may be sliced, buttered with a brush, placed in the hinged wire broiler and broiled or toasted over the fire, or raw potatoes may be done the same way. The boiled pota- toes are quickest done and are much liked. Should be sprinkled with finely minced parsley and with salt and pepper We are having bad coffee, it is poor in taste, worse in appearance; has that dirty color as if mixed with ink and none of the reddish-brown hue of good coffee. People here don't care much, as milk is the principal beverage except for two or three. That makes no difference, however, for the coffee must be not only good but superlatively so. Proprietor good naturedly says it is the fault of that common twenty-cent coffee, that is the only grade the country store can furnish, and we must wait until the good coffee comes with all the other groceries. But it is not that. If they bring; coffee that costs fifty cents a pound it will be as bad when made as this is, unless there be some other method of mating adopted. I have blamed the coffee pots and tried and discarded three because they have lost their bright tinned inside and allow the iron to act upon the coffee and have taken to a bright tin pail, with some im- provement but great unhandiness. There is one remedy for bad coffee but it is a last resort. In hotel work we go a long way around to avoid using eggs to clear cof- fee with. It is a constant tax to have to use half a dozen eggs every time cof- fee is made when eggs may be both dear and hard to get, ana we make fine coffee without, by dripping through a sack into an urn that has an earthen jar or porce- lain lining inside instead of metal. But here the common family coffee pot is the only utensil to use unless we send to Lakeport for an um. Tried the egg remedy and it proved satisfactory. Put the ground coffee in v small deep pan with a cup of cold water, broke in one egg and mixed well by stirring, put it into the pot of boiling water and when it boiled up again set it off the fire and poured in a little cold water to make it settle. The coffee is fine now, although of a low-priced sort, but only as long as it remains in that coffee pot. Poured off some into another coffee pot to beclearof grounds and in fifteen minutes it had turned to the same ro COOKING FOR PROFIT. versal. This yeast is a great saver of time and trouble. Although the ex- pense of purchasing it may amount to several dollars during a season at a resort it is money well spent if there is any busi- ness done worth counting at all. It comes in cakes wrapped in tin-foil which retail at 2 cents or 5 cents, according to size. Will keep about a week in cool weather or in a refrigerator, but should be obtained from the manufacturers fresh every day or two if possible. It is the quickest kind of yeast, as by using a double quantity good rolls and bread can be made ana baked within three or four hours. To use it take half a cake or more, crumble it into tepid milk or water and let it dissolve, then pour all into the flour. Those who cannot obtain the compressed yeast, or who object to the expense of it can find full directions for making yeast of the best and strongest liquid sort at Nos. 257 and 258. Breakfast. like them these are almost as thick as mashed potatoes. July 4. Oatmeal 1 cup raw, 2 cents. Beefsteak (2 pounds loin, clear, 40 cents.) Eggs, scrambled (6 orders, 12 eggs, 17 cents.) Potatoes, stewed in cream (7 cents.) Biscuits (2 doz., 15 cents.) Batter cakes (cheapest; 3 pints batter, 8 cents.) Syrup (t2 cents.) Butter (1 pound for table and steak, 25 cents.) Milk, cream, coffee, tea, 22 cents. $1 48; 19 persons, nearly 8 cents a plate. 534—Potatoes Stewed in Cream. Variously called stewed potatoes, minced potatoes in cream, and other ways, and a favorite way with many people. Take eold cooked potatoes, slice them as thin as possible into a stew pan, pour in good milk to come up even with the sliced potatoes and set over the fire. While it is heating, chop the po- tatoes small with a knife point, add salt, butter and cream, according as can be afforded. When made as most people 535—Clabber Batter Cakes. About the easiest, quickest made and best batter cakes, are made with only four ingredients, viz: "clabber," or milk curdled by souring, flour, soda and salt. Take a little sifted flour in a pan, add the "clabber" until it can be stirred to the proper consistency to bake on a griddle, then add a little salt and soda. There is no measure to give only that in a general way 2 cups of sour milk needs 1 teaspoon of soda. When you make other Sour batter cakes, syrup, eggs and shortening are needed—the syrup to make them brown easily—but these "clabber" cakes need nothing but what is named above. This is the Fourth, the great excursion day. Flags are flying at the large hotels at the depot and at the Trulirural House. There is some danger that a few of the straggling excursionists may come to our house to dinner and we are not prepared. Stores have not arrived; scarcely a thing in the house besides the meat and fish. So much uncertainty it is useless to pre- pare extra dishes or even ice cream, but it is well enough to make a little larger quantity of such plain things as we must have. Dinner. Tomato and green pease soup (4 qts. 28 cents.) Fillet (leg) of veal stuffed (4 pounds veal, 52, and dressing 5; 57 cents.) Potatoes mashed ana browned (10 cents.) Corn (1 can, 15 cents.) Plum pies (4 covered, of two cans plums 28; sugar, 6; crust, 10; 44 cents, 24 cuts.) Cream curd pudding with sauce (al- lowing full price for the soured milk, 27 cents.) Second cooking: Fish, fried (12 pieces, 2% lbs gross, 25; lard, 5; 30 cents.) Mutton chops (2 pounds, 24 cents.) Eggs (6, special order, 8 cents.) , Muk (6 quarts, 18 cents.) SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 30 560—To Cook Green Pease. Hard water is the best to boil them in as it preserves the green color. If they take more than half an hour to cook it shows that they are not worth the name of green pease. Very few people gather pease young enough to be at their prime or seem to know how great the difference can be. We get pease from the garden, as good and better than the finest French canned pease, by taking them early. Have the water boiling when you put the pease in, and a little salt in it and boil gently till done. If old pease, put a pinch of soda in the water and keep stewing an hour or more. Drain off the water and season either with butter, or cream sauce. (See No. 50.) Who's going to scrub the kitchen? Not I, of course. It is getting pretty dirty by this time, the stove, too. House- keeper comes along casually as it were, and looks, and looks. She does not say anything; she will never say anything, but some people can look a whole vol- ume. I suppose she had everything dreadful nice and clean at the Water Cure Home at Campmeetingville in the Great Frying Pan Valley. When I first came here I was allowed my choice of four of the hired girls to take one to be my second cook. Was fool enough to choose the prettiest and smartest. Guess she will think herself too nice to scrub. Don't like to ask her. Wish I could swap her off for my old Mike or Slim Jim, or Reddy; they were the boys could sling a scrub broom and were not afraid of a kettle of boiling lye —except when they had new boots on, which was about once a month, poor boys, for hot lye is awful hard on boots Supper. Butter (table and steak, 1 lb, 20 cents.) Coffee tea (5 cents.) $1 26*20 persons, little over 6 cents a plate. 561—Sutter Sponge Cake. One of the best and most useful cakes. 1 cup sugar—8 ounces. y2 cup butter, large—4 ounces. 4 eggs (use s if they arexheap.) l/2 cup milk. 1 large teaspoon baking powder., 3 cups flour. Beat the sugar and eggs together a few minutes, melt the butter and beat it in, add the milk, then the powder and flour and beat up thoroughly. Good to bake in a shallow tin and frost over with No. 3 or for layer cakes or with currants and raisins mixed in. About.twp,pounds; costs 10 cents a pound. Breakfast. July 7. Liver and bacon, a la brochette (liver 9, b?.con 7, 16 cents.) Beefsteak broiled (7 steaks, 1 lb com- mon 15 cents.) Lyonaise potatoes (5 cents.) Rolls, bread and toast (16 cents.) Batter cakes (1 qt, 8 cents.) Syrup (10 cents.) Butter, milk, cream, coffee, tea (40 -cents.) $1 20; 20 persons, s% cents a plate. 562—Calf's Liver a la Brochette. Beefsteak (16 2-oz steaks,. 2 lbs loin net, 40 cents.) Potatoes baked (15, 3 cents.) French rolls (30, 14 cents.) Rhubarb sauce (9 cents.) Butter sponge cake, warm frosted (No. 561—1 y2 pounds, 15 cents.) Milk and cream (20 cents.) Take a thin slice of liver and one of breakfast bacon for each person and cut them into little square pieces as nearly of one size as may be-and place them on tin skewers, a piece of liver and a piece of bacon alternately till the skewers are full. Dredge with pepper, place them in a dripping pan in the oven, turn them over two or three times while they are cooking and when done place the liver and bacon on long pieces of but- tered toast already in a dish, hold in COOKING FOR PROFIT. place with a tork while you draw out the skewers, then send it in. As only about half the people will take liver when there is other meat, and as each slice weighs but an ounce, three quarter pound of liver and half pound bacon serves for 20 persons' orders. Brochette is French for spit or skewer. 563—Lyonaise Potatoes. Lyonaise potatoes are cold boiled potatoes sliced in a frying-pan, and browned with a little minced onion mixed with the drippings. But, on ac- count of the very general objection to onions, at least among business people, the name of lyonaise is often given to the plain article, that is, to cold potatoes tried more or less brown, in a little fat in a frying-pan without the onions. In this case, having no parsley I used green onions from the seed bed very sparingly, as much for the green sprink- ling as for taste; partly fried the onions in the drippings before putting the po- tatoes in. Potatoes this way should be sliced small. But who is going to scrub the kitchen? My gracious! And the housekeeper, from the Water Cure Home has been in since breakfast looking harder than ever. And there is my "sec." A great singer she is, with not the least intention of having a scrub out, singing in chorus with three other German girls, and wip- ing pans, not at the hotel rate of a mile a minute, but at about the eighth of a mile an hour. It is a very pretty pic-nic, this summer resort business, at present and I hate to break it up. "Shall we gather at the river The beautiful, beautiful river." That is what they are singing but not in the same tongue. They have it: I Sammeln wir am Strom uns Alle, Wo die Engel warten schon, Und die Wasser wie Crystalle Fliessen hin vor Gottes Thron. CHOR. Ta, wir sammeln uns am Strome, Dem herrlichen, dem herrlichen Strome; Sammeln uns am Lebens Strom, Der da fliesst von Gottes Thron. II Dort, wo an des Strom's Gestade Sich die Silber-Welle brich; Preisen ewig wir die Gnadt An dem Tag voll Glanz und Licht. CHOR. Ja, wir sammeln uns|am Strome, etc. III Ehe wir zum Strom gelangen, Legen jede Last win hin; Dort als Sieger zu empfangen Krön' und Purpur zum Gewinn. CHOR. Ja, wir sammeln uns am Strome etc. IV In des Stromes hellem Spiegel Nimmt man Jesus Antlitz wahr, Und des Todes Schloss und Riegel Trennt nicht mehr die heil'ge Schaar. CHOR. Ja, wir sammeln uns anuStrome etc. V An den Silberstrom im Leben Schliesst sich unser Pilgerlauf, Und des Herzens heilig Leben Geht in Wonnejubel auf. CHOR. Ja, wir sammein uns am Stromejetc. Dinner. Nudel soup (4 qts, 12 cents.) Rib ends of beef (No. 144, but small« cuts—30 cents.) Browned potatoes (No. 157—5 cents.) Baked pork and beans (No. 386— beans 1 lb, 4; pork j4 lb 5—9 cents for 2 quarts or 10 orders.) Tomatoes (1 can, 15 cents.) Rhubard pie (cheap short crust, 3 pie1:, 21 cents.) Milk 20, butter 5, bread 6, coffee and sugar 6 (37 cents.) $1 29; 20 persons, 6% cents a plate. 564—Nudels, Noodles or Nouilles Paste. There was a rather funny passage o SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 33 comment and rejoinder not long since be- tween certain New York and Philadel- phia editors, occasioned by the former having seen "Nudels" somewhere for the first time and the latter remarking that his friend would see nudels or noodles very frequently indeed if he would visit the good land of Pennsylvania. It is just barely possible that neither of these had ever recognized "nudels" in the French nouilles soup of their several city hotels and restaurants. Undoubtedly German nudel is the proper word and the nudel is the original German home- made macaroni. To make nudels is an extremely sim- ple matter if you start right and there is no real need of the trouble being taken of drying the dough before or after shredding it. Drop the yolks of two eggs in a cup, add flour by the teaspoon- fur and a little salt and stir together to make it a stiff yellow dough. Then turn it out on to the table and work more flour in as long as the yolks will take up any. Next, roll out the lump till it is as thin as a knife blade, dust it all over with flour, cut it into bands and lay one on top of the other—the flour keeps them from sticking together—and then with a sharp knife cut off the nudels in shreds no thicker than straws and all of one length, which will be the width of the bands of dough. Shake the shreds apart and dust with flour and slide them into a dry pan to keep until the soup is ready to receive them. Any surplus flour may be got rid of by shaking the nudels around in a seive, and if to go in a very clear soup or consomme (139) they can be parboiled separately first and dipped up with a skimmer. 565—Nudel or Noodel Soup. It has no particular or special flavor- ings beyond the nudels or nouilles paste. Make as rich a broth as the meat and bones at your disposal will allow, by boiling them several hours, with a bunch of the ordinary soup vegetables and a stalk of celery. Strain the broth into a clean saucepan, skim offall the grease add a spoonful or two of tomato juice or catsup, salt and white pepper and a little Hour thickening, and if you wish to make it a prettier color and show up the nudels better put in a tablespoonful of burnt sugar coloring. Let it boil again and fifteen minutes before dinner time throw in the nudels and let cook until time to serve. At the Monegaw White and Black Sulphur Springs Hotel, I used to make nudel soup almost daily for a poor lady in the last stage of consumption who could eat a plateful of this farinaceous sustenance every day for weeks after she was past every other kind of food. 566—Beans Baked in Jars, or Boston Baked, or Potted Beans. We see this dish with all these names and others besides in hotel bills-of-fare. This is something that we can never have at this little summer house, for the cooking arrangements are not ri^ht There Is a very wide-spread custom among hotel-keepers of having baked beans and brown bread served hot for Sunday breakfast. It is generally thought that a brick oven is an indis- pensable requirement for the baking yet at the Rathburn House at the Moun- tain Gap; we used to bake beans most perfectly in the range in which the night- watchman kept up a slow fire all night On account of the expense of fuel we only baked once a week and then used two jars of a larger size, than is ordi- narily required, that there might be cold beans for several days after. For a gal- lon jar take:' 8 cups of navy beans (14 cents.) y2 cup molasses (2 cents.) 1 tablespoon salt. % pound salt pork (5 cents.) Supposing they are to be baked durine Saturday night, put them in water to soak in the morning, and set the pan in a warm corner. At night drain away the water that remains, put the beans in the jar, also the molasses, salt and piece of pork and pour in fresh water enough to be about an inch above the beans Put on the lid or a little plate and set the jar in the oven. It is a mistake to get ud a great fire and keep the beans furiouslv boiling as some do, that try it for the first time; they have not the taste of w COOKING FOR PROFIT. baked beans when done; but keep a slow and steady fire and let the jar re- main in the oven 8 or 10 hours. They should come out brown on top, yet not quite without water at bottom. 567—Canned Tomatoes as a Vege- table. Let the tomatoes stew down to dry out the surplus juice if possible, instead of adding bread crumbs to thicken them. Canned tomatoes are vastly improved (in the way of being solid packed) over what they were a few years ago, when they were generally colorless and watery. While they are stewing add salt and pep- per and a small piece of butter if afford- ed. If bread crumbs are added mince them very fine first, or better still, do as they do at Black's, for their 90 boarders; put the cold rolls in a pan of cold water and after a few minutes drain the water off and squeeze the bread dry. This soaked and squeezed bjead is called panada. It is used for chicken stuffing as well as to thicken tomatoes. "When we're rich we ride in chaises, When we're poor we walk (or work) like blazes!" —Hudibras (or some other fellow.) The deuce take this disappointing sum- mer resort business. Here is a week gone and nobody has come yet. Proprietor evidently disappointed; feels like one forsaken; has gone and got a saw and hatchet amd •« tearing up and repairing the dilapidated cellar steps with his near- ly new nfty-dollar summer resort suit on. That's a great way to save expenses. I feel sorry for his suit but not so sorry for him as I should be for a poor man who might have spent everything getting ready for a resort Dnsiness that never comes after all. One week is nothing if one only knew what is to come. If one week goes by and brings nobody why may not the next and the next? There may be a host of summer tourists on the way who will fill all the rooms and ask for cots and tents, and beds even on the roof of the house, for all we know, but suppose a rainy spell or a cold spell intervene and they never get here. And they say that at this time last year there were over forty people visiting_ here. When a man who has been keeping open house for years, at last provides himself with a real hotel register with $2.00 per day printed on the top of every page, it does seem as though by that act he had alienated every friend he had in the world. That's what makes the proprietor tired. He is tired of playing the lone fisherman; tired of sitting on the piazza seeing the 'bus come back and waiting my darling sum- mer boarder for thee; tired of hearing his hired girls sing the beautiful river; tired of seeing his boat boy in the big sailor hat idly sitting on his lone rock by the sea; tired of thinking that somebody's coming when the dew drops fall; tiredof resting and gone to work. - 568—How to Scrub the Kitchen. Swish, Bang I . Why, it is a real relief to see the boiling hot suds and lye water dash around and deluge tables, walls, shelves, stove and floor once more, after all these years endurance of that vile, slimy, push-the- dirt-in-the-comers-and-leave-it-there way of mopping the horrible painted, grained and varnished kitchens of the present idiotic fashion. What! let the spiders build webs over the range and stay there the year around because the painted walls are too good to have hot suds thrown upon them? Now, I hope that housekeeper from the Great Frying Pan Valley will stay away while I scald something. This is my water cure, and my old Mike and Slim Iim and Reddy know it is a good one. want to scald the winter and spring mouldiness, the bugs and roaches, flies, muddaubers, daddy-longlegs, spiders, centipedes, mice,toads, snails and things, and there will be no reserved seats foi spectators for a while. One afternoon, not long since, I went to show an old second of mine who is pastry cook at the Bendebeer House at Bmgen-on-the- Bayou, how to make the Kaaterskill flan- nel rolls, sometimes called German puffs. that are just now the fashion, and while there had a chance to try the efficacy of boiling water. That house, too, has a painted and varnished kitchen with every- thing as inconveniently placed as all t»-£ SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S. 34 modem improvements could possibly be, and altogether too nice for cleanliness. There are patent doors with patent springs to shut them up quick to keep the fresh air out; patent windows with nickel- plated fastenings and blinds and screens and shutters to keep the foul air in. The meat block is at trie other end of the table distant from the broiler; the pastry room is two rooms distant from the oven; the kitchen floor is covered with oilcloth and a girl slimes it over with a mop at eleven every morning, and the cock- roach population of that fine house is over a hundred millions (estimated). Seeing an odd million or so of the abomi- nable insects roosting in a bunch under a low shelf near the range I could not resist the temptation to sling a two-quart dipper of hot boiling water. Brought and go back to their old haunts. It is all egregious folly making kitchens too good to stand boiling water. At some hotels that have been rebuilt two or three times and thereby cured of the first follies and made right at last. They have stone floors in the kitchens even when up stairs, and tile drains where the water may flow free. The old and nat- ural style of kitchen had massive oaken beams and rafters, solid oaken tables and walls or wainscot that could be scrubbed. Every time I chop the fins and head off a fish, or strike abroiling chicken with the side of the cleaver to flatten it for the gridiron a spray of animal juices flies and strikes somewhere. It may be scarce- ly visible at one time yet it coats over the walls alter a whlie. On the river we call the dividing walls bulkheads and we them all down at one sfiot. But, as if that i used to scrub these bulkheads as was not enough, from some painted and thoroughly as the tables and floors and grained little cuddy hole underneath a lot of mice skipped out,for the hot water had fallen into a breeding place that had been undisturbed perhaps since the house was built. It being none of my funeral I left the place before the cook came home. Swash, Zip! There s that housekeeper from Camp- meetingville looking again, and I guess she is laughing now. But, for pity's sake, what made her skip away so quick? There was no danger. Guess I can hit where I aim, if she can't, and did not aim her way. Boiling water and plenty of it, is a good thing to fight a mutinous boat's crew with. It is an infallible exterminator. This method of hydraulic scrubbing is new to her. Wants a hose and tank of boiling water to do it up perfectly. She was look- ing to see where the water goes when it is brushed off the tables and stove and falls from the walls. Where does she think it goes? Where does she think the flies comes from that she spends half her life fighting to death? They come out of the ground, under damp floors where there are crumbs and sweepings and decaying matter. That is where this scalding lye and soap water is going and it will kill more Hies in their infancy than her suf- focating insect powder ever will. Insect powder does not kill. It is necessary to take up the verrpin in their apparently dead state and bum them, otherwise, after a few hours they begin to kick, then „et up and look around, snake themselves we found that after scrubbing with brooms dipped in a tub of hot water con- taining some lye or soap, if the water we rinsedoff with was likewise boiling hot the boards dried much whiter than if rinsed off with cold water. "Oh! how white your tables are dry- ing? "Yes, of course they're white—did you think I was going to mop them?" "Housekeeper says we can get a tub of boiling suds and do the pantry that way." "Ah, wretched hypocrites, you can get awfully enthusastic over it now the work is done. Get out." It is not so mnch of a pic-nic for the waiter girls when these summer houses fill up at last. The reason why the girls at that same Bendebeer House al Bingen- on-the-Bayou looked so pale and powd- ered and rouged so ridiculously was not because they were dissipated as some thought and said, but because the ne- cessity of keeping their pink gowns starched out as wide, stiff and sharp al- most as mowing machines robbed them of hours of sleep. I should like to know if anybody thought they could pay for all that laundry work out of their wages —their linen cuffs and little frilled aprons and white neck gear, fresh ever dinner time. They rose at three in the morning taking turns by squads to have the use' of the laundry before the regular laundry COOKING FOR PROFIT. hands came on; in the interval between dinner and supper they had to go and do something else to the duds ano at night after the dining room doors were closed and the laundry hands had vacated the place they took'possession of the starching and ironing tables for several hours at a spell. Misery loves company and they did not seem to Know they were suffering as long as all the other girls had to go through the same ordeal. But it did make them pale and gaunt to a degree that the regu- lar day work alone would not have done. Then they piled on the artificial colors. 569—Trouble witn Steam Chest and Vegetables. The caustic concentrated lye we buy in cans has to be used in moderation; the steam from it alone caused a painful ulceration of the breathing apparatus of a lot of us fellows once where we threw it around too carelessly. The old-fashioned ash-hopper lye is doubtless as danger- ous if boiled down strong. It was at the Uncomphagre House, out in the Rath- skeller Range of mountains, Slim Jim Dalton was my second then. He was the most cleanly boy I ever knew. He had just quit the Quaintuple House at Turtle Key, because he could get noth- ing but sea water there to scrub with, and it would not make a lather. I doubt whether he would have taken the key as a gift, or a whole bunch of keys in Grouper Inlet if they were without soft water to make soap suds with. But he could never be a good cook for he seemed to tie devoid of the senses of taste and smell. A thing might be burning up on top of the range for an hour before ever he would find it out, and then he was in- dolent. If he scrubbed the floor until it was as white as a table-cloth it seemed to be only that he might have the luxury of rolling down to sleep upon it without soiling his white shirt, and after draining the steam chest dry he often forgot or neglected to fill it again, and the result was that the pipes which take the water down into the fire-backs often went dry and burnt a goodway up, and that makes one of the worst of smells and taints the vegetables that are steamed over the steam chest for days afterwards. Another thing, there was no ice, and the water the pared potatoes were kept in would hardly stay sweet over night. We have to keep potatoes and other vegetables after they have been pared ready for breakfast covered with water, otherwise they turn black and wilt in a short time, but it is necassary if any are left over to put them in fresh water and let them be the next to be used. This Slim would not always do, and the pota- toes at the bottom of the keg acquired a bad smell. We had a lot of awful par- ticular people in that house, and one day after those bad potatoes had been steam- ed over that badly burned steam chest some of them made a grand kick and the proprietor who did not know what was the matter any more than a child, got clear off his head about the reputacion of his house. I promised there should be no more cause for complaint and Slim turned over a new leaf with his potatoes; threw away the wooden keg ana got two stone jars and kept them scalded out. But we did not know what to do with the steam chest. The foul smell was caused by the starchy sediment that drips from steaming vegetables going down into the pipes and burning there when the pipes get dry. I suppose the only way to clean them was to take them off, but that we could not do. Slim thought concentrated lye was good for everything and put a can in the steam chest and let it dissolve. The burnt stuff was not the right sort for lye to act upon, but it seemed to eat away by degrees, so we kept it up for days and weeks, drawing the lye water to scrub with and putting in fresh every morning and living in the steam from the boiling lye untfl it had nearly put the whole of us, seven in all who worked in the kitchen, past working at all, our lungs seemed all on fire and we had not the least idea of what was causing the sickness. The truth dawned upon us at last, and then I banished concentrated lye from the place entirely and drove a wooden plug into the faucet so that Slim could not drain the steam chest dry any more. The cause once ur.jerstood and remove'd, we soon re- covered from the ailment. But Slim was all broke up. The floors lost their white- SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S jo ness. He took to looking out of the windows and whistling to nimself, and soon left me, to find some other place where the water was all soft and where they made in unlimited abundance their 3wn soft soap. Five arrivals this evening. They have come for the season. Tney are either from Paris or Peoria, Pekin or Pewaukee —it's a P, but I did not quite catch the name. Goods arrived from Lakeport at last. Open them to-morrow. Supper. Broiled Mackinaw trout (4 lbs, gross 30 butter to baste 5—35 cents.) Broiled tenderloin steak (No. 40-7 steaks, ilb. 25 cents.) Beefsteak common (8 steaks, ilb. butter gravy 5-21 cents.) Eggs (4 orders, 14 cents.) Potatoes baked (5 cents.) French rolls (35 and loaf bread, cents.) Rhubarb sauce (10 cents.) Cake, frosted dy2 lbs, 18 cents.) Butter, (average count 15 cents.) •Milk and cream, (average count cents \ Coffee and tea, (10 cents.) Twenty-five persons; 8 cents a plate. 16, 19 28 570— Broiled Mackinaw Trout. If the fish is of small size, split it length- wise in halves and remove the bone entirely, by cutting along both sides of it. Dry the halves on a clean kitchen towel, dredge with pepper and salt, dip both sides in flour, place them in the hinged wire broiler and cook over clear coals. When partly cooked, brush over with melted butter and keep it moist until well done through. To serve, turn out of the broiler on to a little board on the table, kept for the purpose and divide each side in four by a sudden chop with a large sharp knife. For a plain family supper like this, no sauce is needed, but have the fish freshly cooked and hot. May also be served like No. 58. . -AJ^—£ ls not necessary to cook broiled fish entirely on the broiler, but, when the place is wanted to broil the beefsteaks the fish may be finished in a pan in the oven. Very large fishes are sometimes broiled whole ostensibly, when they are in reality baked except for suf- ficient broiling at first to give them the marks and appearance. A very nice broil can also be effected over the top of the stove, by beginning a little earlier. Breakfast. July 8. Meats all cut and laid readyin a pan are to be broiled as ordered. Where there are so many kinds offered it is suf- ficient to prepare two or three orders bf each. Beefsteak (6, 120ZS, net, and season- nings, 16 cents.) Liver (4 slices, 8 ozs, 7 cents.) Bacon (4 slices, 6 ozs, net, 6 cents.) Ham (4 slices, 8 ozs, net, 12 cents.) Mutton chops (6 lb, gross, 10 cents.) Eggs (2 dozen, and Imtter to fry, 35 cents.) Potatoes baked and fried (8 cents.) Rolls and bread (15 cents.) Batter cakes (2 qts, 13 cents.) Syrup (of iy2 lbs, sugar, 12 cents.) Butter (1 lb, 20 cents.) Milk and cream (25 cents.) Coffee and tea (10 cents.) Total, $1 89; 25 persons; 7^ a plate. Dinner. lbs, net, Not having soup regularly as yet, for no reason of expense but because it makes more work waiting on table, washing plates, and prolonging the meal. Boiled trout with butter sauce (2 gross and sauce, 18 cents.) Roast beef (2 ribs, 4 lbs 50 cents.) Boiled ham (knuckle with 2 lbs, -50 cents.) Corn (2 cans, seasonings, 31 cents.) Green peas (from garden, equal 2 cans, 30 cents.) Potatoes (7 cents.) Baltimore butter pie (No. 577 increased —3 large, deep, 40 cents.) Raisins, nuts, cheese, pickles, condi- ments (average cost 1 cent each person 37 COOKING FOR PROFIT. ill counted together, 25 cents.) Bread, butter (16 cents., Milk, coffee, tea (30 cents.); Total, $2 77; 25 persons; over nwxnts a plate. 571—Boiled Trout. When we have but a small' amount of fish we boil it, because we find that "it goes further" that way than if baked or broiled; whether the reason be that it shrinks less or that there are fewer orders for it. Boiled fish ought not to be con- sidered inferior, for in no other way is the peculiar flavor of a fine fish so well preserved. It is always safe when the preferences of the people to be served are unknown, to boil a trout or salmon in water that is well salted and without other seasonings. At some other time you can try the addition of an onion stuck with four cloves, and half a cup of vinegar to the water, and perhaps a bayleaf and some parsley, besides the salt. Use a bright pan if yon add vinegar, or the fish will be dark. As our summer boarders all come to the table at the same minute and want to be served instantly, we pre- pare the fish for dishing up by cutting it in portions half way through before boil- ing, being careful to sever the bone at each cut, which is easily done with the point of a large knife. Then the fish must not boil too long, nor too fast; have the water boiling in a deep boiler, pan, or something roomy enougn, drop in the fish and simmer not longer than half an hour. Drain off most ofthe water. Serve on small plates with the sauce at the side of the piece of fish. when first made it may have become thick and stringy with waiting, or, it njay be a caper sauce, which the person *does not like, or eggs, or tomato, or anchovy which many detest—why should the fish or meat be deluged with these peculiar flavors whether the recipient wishes it or not? There is an answer—it is because that it is the custom of French cooks and so the directions read. But it never was in- tended for geneial application. One day I happened to be at the Lookover-the- Mountain House (by-the-Sea) when a large number of prominent townspeople were taking dinner there for some com- plimentary purpose concerning the ex- cellence of the table, and the cook served the fish with wine sauce. The fish was of the finest; probably it was well cooked; | but whether it was the wrong wine or no 'wine at all, but a substitute, the sauce was sweet; it could hardly have been sweeter if it had been molasses; it had the Parisienne potatoes in it saturated and dingy, and each portion of fish served was buried out 01 sight under a large spoonful of the mess. There are plenty of reasons why sauces may be bad in spite ot skill and good intentions, but they are of small consequence in the houses where they are but poured at the side and not over the cut of meat or fish, because then a free choice is left to either take or leave, and the cook's sauce is placed upon its own merits. 572—Taking Unwarrantable Liberties Whoever serves fish or meat to a num- ber of guests at a public house of whose tastes and preferences he can know noth- ing, takes unwarrantable liberties with their food if he covers it with a sauce be- fore sending it in. The sauce should be placed under or at the side of the cut. The salmon or the trout may be fine, firm, flaky, pink-fleshed, good to look at, and appetizing, but the sauce may be a dull paste, perhaps tasting of butter of a poor quality; or, if of the very best quality 573—Butter Sauce—Best. 2 cups clear strained broth or water. %, pound butter or more. 2 heaping tablespoons flour. Salt, if not enough in the butter. Take half the butter and all the flour and stir them together in a saucepan over the fire. When well mingled and bub- bling from the bottom add the boiling water or broth a little at a time, stirring till all is in and the sauce has cooked thick and smooth. Take it from the fire and beat in the other half the butter a portion at a time and do not let it boil again. It looks glossy and smooth as soft butter; may need thinning down for some purposes, as for parsley sauce, etc. The above makes over a pint of sauce; the cost is whatever the price of the but- ter used may bt. 'SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 38 574—Cheap Butter Sauce Substitute. when we count up the sum total at the end of the book.' z cups clear strained broth or water. Flour and water thickening. 1 ounce butter (guinea egg size!) Salt. » .-.. Thicken the broth or water by stirring in the mixed flour and water. Take it from the fire and beat in the lump of but- ter until it is melted. Do not boil after the butter is in., 575—Family Roast Beef. Each * of beef weighs on an average 2 pounds hen it has been shortened and trimmed ready for roasting. Our 2-rib roast weighs 4 pounds and takes an hour to cook well done. Roasted meat is at its best when it is but just done, when the gravy flows freely, as soon as it is cut. I make it an invariable practice to hold back the roasting until the last; a cut that will take 2 hours goes in just 2 hours be- fore dinner time, and if there is no gravy on hand and the pan is required to make some, change the meat into another pan 15 minutes before dishing up—which gives time for the gravy making. Some comical wordy encounters take place at times through the difference of menus of quantity Detween hotel and Erivate house people. "Four pounds of eef for twenty-five people's dinner!" says one, "why, that would not be more than enough for my family at home." "Two pounds of meat to make an entree for a dinner for fifty ["exclaimsanother— "and even when it is chicken meat nicely fixed up, still only two pounds! Nonsense, you can't tell me, I know that one hungry man could eat up the whole business. At the same time Mrs. Tingee, who knows far more about saving than ever I can tell her would think we were giving ruinously large rations if she could see. It is a curious study, this bill of fare plan with its small amount of each of many viands, I have not time to at- tempt to explain how it is that the one hungry man does not eat up the whole business, nor a dozen hungry men either. These little bills of fare are truthful records of stubborn facts and they may explain it all. If not, we shall find out how well fed all these people have been 576—Brown Pan Gravy or Espagnole. The brown sauce which in systematic cooking we find so useful, so indispensa- ble, even, is not much unlike the frying- pan gravy that Mary Jane makes very nicely, sometimes, by taking out the fried pork, sausage or chicken and pouring in water or milk and thickening it when it boils, but we are strictly careful to get rid of all the grease. We think over the matter an hour or two ahead of the time for making gravy to see what can be put in the pan to make it richer and to improve the color, and we make it in the roast meat pans, and generally in the oven. The material for making the gravy is the essence of beef or other meat that escapes from the meat in roasting, as already mentioned at Nos. 170, 185, 171,144 and other places, and settles at the bottom of the pan, and of course the more meat the better the gravy will be. It is well enough, but not strictly necessary to put a piece of turnip, carrot and celery in the pan along with any rough pieces of meat besides the roast, and there must be some salt put in at the beginning. All the time the meat is roasting there is more or less water in the pan and the grease and gravy are mixed together, but when the meat is taken out the pan dries down, the essence sticks on the bottom and turns brown like the outside of roast meat and the hot grease above it is as clear as water and can be poured off into ajar to be used for frying and other purposes. That being done put into the pan a quart, more or less of water or soup stock, let it boil up and dissolve the brown glaze, then add flour thickening a little at a time, making it as thick as cream, let boil and strain it into a saucepan. It is then ready for use; but if allowed to simmer at the side of the range, it will throw up scum and grease which must be skimmed off, and the sauce becomes bright and is much improved. 577—Baltimore Butter Pie or Custard Without Eggs. Having no eggs left after breakfast, COOKING FOR PROFIT. 39 made a kind of pie that serves in place of pudding and needs none. At the Kissimmeequick Hotel—a noted resort on the Kissimmee River—they have one of those little customs with which no fault can be found of keeping a standing favorite dish always on the Ml of fare, and there it is custard pie, regularly, there being another kind of pie and the pudding and creain to make the changes on. But there the supplies are by no means regular in arriving, and when they have no eggs they make custard this way: 4 cups milk—a quart. i small cup butter—6 ounces. V/2 cups sugar—12 ounces i level cup flour—4 ounces. Boil the milk with the bntter in it and a spoonful of the sugar to prevent burn- ing. Mix the .lour and sugar together dry, stir them into the boiling milk quickly with a wire egg beater, like making mush and take from the fire as soon as it begins to thicken. It will finish cooking in the pies. Line 2 deep custard pie plates with crust rolled very thin and pour the whole 3 pints of mixture into them—if you have people enough to eat so much, if not. of course the receipt can be divided. The butter is the only flavoring needed in this mature and must be good. Bake in a slack oven until the filling be- gins to rise in the middle. It will rise and flow over the edge if baked too long. Cost of mixture here 17 cents and crusts of rich paste 10 cents for two. Cut each pie in eight—they are deep enough for that. Can be made richer yet with cream. Supper. 578—Molasses Fruit Cake, Cheap. Beefsteak (10 orders, 20 ozs, 25 cents.) Mutton chops (9 orders,24ozs,2oce nts.) Cold boiled ham (8 ozs, 10 cents.) Potatoes (5 cents.) French rolls (35, 14 cents.) Baiter cakes ( 2 qts, 14 cents.) Syrup [12 cents.] Blueberries [2 cans,and sugary cents.] Molasses fruit cake [No. 578, iy2 lbs, 15 cents.] Butter 15, milk, cream 25 coffee, tea 8. Total, $1 96; 25 persons, nearly 8 cents a plate. 3 cups raisins—a pound. 4 cups currants—a pound. 1 small cup sugar—6 ounces. Same of butter. 1 large cup molasses—12 ounces. 2 eggs. 1 cup sour milk and teaspoon soda—or else use sweet milk and baking powder. 6 cups flour—\% pounds. Spices if desired. Prepare the raisins and currants and dust them with flour. Mix all the rest together and beat well, then aad the fruit. May be baked in a shallow pan to cut out squares warm or in deep mold. Makes about s pounds, costing 45 cents, or 9 cents a pound. Divide before baking and you can have one cake and the other half steamed to-morrow for pudding. There is music on the water to-night— serenading party in boats—fifteen young ladies have come to the Trulirural House to board for a week or two—glee club or seminary class or something of the sort from Basswood City, and they are down at our boat landing singing. Proprietor of the Trulirural has instigated them to that—knows that our side cannot muster even a parlor quartette. If Mr. Farewell would put his hired girls in a boat and tell them to sing their loudest that party would soon be put to fight. I suppose that would not do—it would make what they call a scandal, and, instead, the manager, the housekeeper and 'bus driver are hang- ing the trees lull of Chinese lanterns, and the boat boy with the big hat, is getting out some fire-works. "For it makes the heart so gay, To hear the sweet birds singing On their summer hol-i-day." It does put new life into a fellow who is weary of his ill success when duck hunting to see the game come circling around at last. 579—Mrs. Tingee's Costard Pie. The glory of the custard pie, is in the depth or thickness of it. The distance should be great between the glossy surface SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 40 wavering between orange, yellow and brown and the substratum, wafer-like in its thinness, of paste. The custard pie, then demands a pie pan of an uncommon depth and spaciousness, with a capacity not fritterea away in broad and spreading edges but, rather, with boundaries of an upright character and quite unobtrusive, the necessary wall of crust being of no great moment, so that it be respectably short as all about a custard pie that is worthy of consideration relates only to the filling. Taking this view of the cus- tard pie, which I believe is the popular one. I have been troubled about pie pans. We have none at this place put such as are shallow, almest flat, nothing that is a cross between pie plate and pud- ding pan, which is what the exigency de- mands. Thinking to get out of the dilem- ma easily enough I went over to the country store and explained the matter to the merchant, who would not even stop for me to finish before he went off nod- ding and smiling, saying he had just what I wanted, some pie plates that were deep and some that were deeper. There never was a man more mistaken in the use of words. All he really had was some that were shallow and some others that were shallower, and I spent some time trying to prove it to him, but as he was German it seemed without much success. Then I had to come home, take a hammer and beat the broad, flat, edges of the pie plates we have into a comparative per- pendicularity. They look bad but, "what can't be cured must be endured,"—as the sailor said when he bade his sweetheart, good bye—"so farewell, Susan," etc. The very last time I had a talk with Mrs. Tingee—we are opposite neighbor's and it is common for me to step in of a morning—just as I was as I thought well out of the house she stopped me on the steps with the usual, "Oh, tell me some- thing, now, what can I have for dinner?', "Why; Mrs. Tingee,why don't you give your boarders some roast lamb? There is nothing better; and as for the price it is really no dearer now than mutton or the other meat you buy." But, wouldn't they eat—" Whatever she may have in- tended to say, she did not finish the sentence but stopped for a moment and then resumed: "No; it is not much trouble about the meat part, but it is the something to come after. I ought to make them something. Day before yesterday I gave them pud- ding; yesterday we had nothing and it seems as though I ought to have some- thing to-day, and it ought to be pie and, oh, I do dread to make pie, so 1 I could plainly see a shiver ran all through the poor lady as she said this; probatory she was thinking of lard and the outlay involved in its use. "Why not make a custard pie," I said, "it does not require much pie paste.' "I should want some eggs, shouldrA I?" she asked dubiously. "Yes: perhaps four. "Couldn't you make it with two, if it was you?" "How can I tell when I don't know how much or how many you are going to make."' She gazed away off into space for a while. There was a mighty argument for and against pie going on in her mind. Then coming close and looking around to see that there were no listeners, she said in a low tone: "I would not say it to anybody but you, but I have one boarder, a young man, that actually sometimes eats four pieces of pie?" So that s what made this poor woman shiver. Not the bare reflection upon the expensiveness of lard, but the dread of this young man's calling heartlessly one, two, three, four times for pie; having her m his power; knowing she dared not say no, or, "it is all out," while the other boarders were, yet to be served and would presently be, right before his eyes. I think if he had been in my place and real- ized what depths of doubt and fear this likelihood of his wanting four pieces had opened before her he would have sworn olf from ever going beyond the second order. However, there are extenuating circumstances to be mentioned in his favor. We fellows who make our custard pies in all that swaggering, arrogant feeling of boundless wealth that is bom of having a plethroic store-room and whole barrels full of "stuff' to use out of would feel more like pitying than blaming the young man who would essay to movt around after a four-piece /«-iw/-ment of our pies, however good and wholesome, for, as we fill each one to the brim withi a i int of milk, four eggs and four ounces COOKING FOR PROFIT. 41 of sugar and the crust weighs at least four ounces more it is within an ounce or two of being two pounds weight for each custard pie, and though we cut it in the smallest pieces, that is in eight, the young man who would eat four would almost surely feel such discomfort that a pound of pie at once would bring its own punish- ment ; and I understood Mrs. Tingee to say that she cut her's in only six—so much the worse for the young man. However, in this case I tried to sympathise with Mrs. Tingee and offered her the poor comfort of saying that everything costs and it might as well be custard pie as something else; with which she cautiously agreed. "But won't it take milk? she asked." "Yes, of course." "How much, do you think?,' Now I verily believe she was thinking | spoonfuls while I was thinking quarts, but not wishing to alarm her, I said: "Oh, about a pint." "But that's for tea," she replied. "Maam?" "That's for tea." "What, the pie?" "No, the milk." "Oh! yes, I understand," and did be- gin to apprehend her meaning. That is just like a woman. I was thinking of a pint of milk—any pint of milk—from anywhere in the world so that we not it; she was thinking of the pint of milk, the one pint of milk in her cupboard set there to be used for the tea at the evening meal and, to her the only pint of milk in the universe. -'Well, then," I said, "you need not use that; you can make just as good a custard with water." "Is that so?" she said, brightening up, "have you ever made custard with water?" I nodded an affirmative. "What ever made you think of trying that?" "It tried itself, as it were. You see when at the Cloverdale Hotel and cot- tages in the early part of the season we had more milk than we could possibly use we made custard pie with cream, and of course it was good. As the season advanced and the crowd increased we got down to skimmed milk and to milk mixed with water, and still the custard pies were apparently as good as before; so when it happened, as it will in every place sometimes, that there was no milk at all it was but an easy step further to make the custard pies with water alone and not care whether the cows come home or not." "And they were every bit as gtfod?" "Yes, ma am—apparently." "Did you ever hear of anybody using flour or starch or anything to save eggs?" "Oh, yes; there is a rule for that. If you have need of four eggs you can mix up some flour and water to the consist- ency of thick cream and each cooking- spoonful of that is equal to one egg, for thickening purposes,but it will be white." "But ifl use three of that and one egg it will look yellow. Well, I must get to doing something, for the morning is half gone." So then I was released, but only for a short time, for after dinner Mrs. Tingee made me cross the street again. "I want you to come and try my cus- tard pie," said she. "No, thank you—I have had dinner." "But you must—tell me whether I did right or wrong and what you think of it." But the pie she set before me was none of mine. I disclaim having anything to do with it. My custard pies are big and fat—three big cups of custard in each one, and there is room to dive down deep in them: but this! Oh, Mrs. Tingee how could you! It is only the ghost, the shadow, the skeleton of a custard pie. I hope she will not ever ask me any more questions. Sometimes I feel like pitying her, but am always sure to be taken aback by some such exhibition of the preternat- ural sharpness she has acquired in the long battle ot three-and-a-half-a-week. In this case—to borrow a simile from minister Schenck's book on poker—she has seen the hand I held and gone me one, ten, aye a hundred better. One of us two has been "sold" and it wasn't Mrs. T. Her custard pie is primped and crimped around the edges, but there is nothing of it. It consists of a sheet of bottom crust about as thin as paper, with a yellow layer of custard about as deep as a sheet of blotting paper upon it. Why, three cups of custard would cover "wilds immeasurably spread" of paste of such a depth as that. With a quart of such cus- tard made with no milk but one egg she .SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S could fill pies enough to stock up a bakery. I am afraid of her. As for the young man who, sometimes eats four pieces I may envy him his vigorous ap- petite, but I utterly despise him for his want of taste. Let him go without a lecture. Mrs. Tingee is able to cope with him alone. In some way or other tie gets his full punishment, never doubt it. Breakfast. lam and eggs (7 orders, 120ZS, ham, net, 15; eggs 18, 33 cents.) Beetsteak (8 orders, 1 lb, net, 20 cents.) Mutton chops (8 orders, 12 cents.) Stewed kidneys (^ lb, 6 cents.) Potatoes baked and fried, (5 cents.) Wheat muffins (No. 102 doubled, 14 cents.) Batter cakes (2 qts, 12 cents.) Milk and cream (average count, 25 cents.) Butter 15, syrup and sugar 16, tea and coffee 6. Total, $1 64; 25 persons; about 6% cents a plate. 580—Ham and Eggs, Hotel Style. The large dish of ham and eggs served at some restaurants as described at No. 76 as costing 25 cents is not the best dish of the kina that can be served. It is quantity in that case rather than quality. Take the best pieces of ham, the right- hand cut shown at No. 552, shave off the outside, cut slices very thin the full size of the piece—they scarcely ever weigh so much as two ounces—and broil over a brisk fire. Lay on a good sized platter up towards one end and two fried eggs partly upon the ham and partly on the dish. If at 18 cents a dozen two eggs cost three cents, and two ounces of choice cut of ham worth 24 cents a pound net costs 3 cents each dish served counts six cents for material. 581—Stewed Kidneys, or Saute of Kidneys. Kidneys cooked this way arCtlot really stewed, but we have to call^hem so, because of the dazed looks we meet if we used any harder words. Slice the three or fouf Iciriflneys that have been taken from the different meats and steep a short time in cold water. Put them in a frying pan with a little butter, dredge with pepper and salt, and simmer slowly over the fire shaking the pan oc- casionally. There will be a rich gravy in the pan in a few minutes in which the kidneys become well cooked and remain tender, but if not watched the gravy Presently coagulates and the kidneys are ard and tasteless. The cooking should take place only a short time before the meal begins. Add a tablespoonful of walnut catsup to the gravy before serving. 582—Muffins in Haste. There are no better muffins than the kind made according to the directions at Nos. 102 and 103, but in summer weather and with compressed yeast they can be made of fine quality in a still shorter time with only one rising. Breakfast beginning at half past seven, I mix up the muffins at six. Take a piece of the light dough that was set over-night for rolls or bread, put it in a pan, add four yolks, six table- spoons melted butter, same of warmmilk and one tablespoon sugar and pinch of salt. Hold the pan over the stove to warm the ingredients while you thoroughly mix and beat them together. Drop into greased gem pans, set in a warm place to rise about an hour, then bake. Dinner. Soup—puree of tomatoes with duchess crusts (5 qts, 2? cents.) Boiled nam (knuckle, 2 lbs, 20 cents.) Roast beef (1 rib and cap or shoulder cut, 4 lbs, gross, 50 cents.) Mutton pie (1 lb, meat 8, 1 lb, paste 7, 15 cents.) Macaroni and cheese (No, 584, 12 orders, 12 cents.) Mashed potatoes, (7 cents.) String beans (2 cans,seasoned,28 cents.) Steamed fruit pudding (2 lbs. 20 and sauce 5, 25 cents.) Rhubarb pie (2 large, rolled thin, 1.; cents.) t3 COOKING FOR PROFIT. Cheese, raisins, pickles, crackers, con diments (average count, 25 cents.) Butter (average, 15 cents.) Milk, cream, coffee, tea (36 cents.)! Total, $2 71; 25 persons; nearly' ir cents a plate. 583—Puree of Tomatoes Soup: A puree is a paste or pulp like mashed potatoes and a puree soup is one thickened By having a puree of vegetables or per- haps of iowl or game stirred into it; a plain tomato soup may be thin and clear enough to show up green peas, rice or other additions, but a puree soup is thick, more like tomato sauce. These explan- ations will do to refer to again. The butcher over at "the Glen" would sell us a beef shank for 12 or 15 cents, but as that is a distance of four miles we must either say, "can't make soup," or do '.his way. Take the bone of the short loin of beef, (all the meat for steaks hav- ing been cut off raw,) the piece of shoulder off the rib ioast, bone out of the veal, shanks of mutton, small piece of ham, all raw. Wash in cold water, and reject every piece that has become stale and dark through exposure to the air. Put them into a large pot with two gallons of cold water and set on to boil between 8 and 9 o'clock in the morning. Skim when it begins to boil. These bones we will count worth 10 cents. The flavors which "go well" with tomatoes are onions, ham, garlic, cloves, green and red peppers, allspice, clams, lamb, walnut catsup, anchovies. Not to be used all at once. Into the soup pot you had better put one onion, six cloves, piece of turnip and carrot and a three pound can of tomatoes (15 cents) or fresh tomatoes to that amount and let boil with the meat and bones until near dinner time, them add flour-and- water thickening a spoonful at a time un- til it seems thick enough, and season with salt and cayenne. The soup is then ready to be strained and freed from grease. Take a clean soup pot and set a strainer over it. A colander-shaped strainer at least as fine as a flour seive should be used, or one of perforated tin, finer still. You can hurry the soup and all such mixtures through by rapidly striking the strainer edge with an iron spoon—better than stirring around. There will be five or six quarts. Set it on the back part of the stove and as it slowly boils up at one side all the grease that is in it will collect on the surface at the other and must be skimmed off. Serve with a few duchess crusts, not put in the soup previously, but droypedin the plates as they are taken in., 584—Duchess and Conda (Trusts or Croutons. These are the names givert By* tne French to what English cooks call "sip- pets of fried bread.'' Cut bread in thin slices without crust, then in dice no larger than navy beans. If you drop them for a few seconds, into hot clarified butter, oil or lard and fry them light brown they are duchess crusts, if, instead, you put them in a pan in the oven and bake them brown like toast they are conde crusts. They are to eat in soup instead of crackers. 585—Macaroni and Cheese—Ordinary. This makes 12 orders at a cost of one cent each. j4 pound macaroni." 2 ounces cheese—a small cup grated or minced. 2 ounces butter—size of an egg. 1 cup milk. 1 spoonful flour thickening. 1 egg, salt, cracker crumbs. Set on a saucepan of water and when it boils put in the macaroni broken in pieces. Cook 20 minutes then drain in a colander. Get a pan or deep dish that holds about three pints, butter it, put in the maca- roni, the cheese minced fine and butter in small bits, mix them with a fork. Hreak the egg in a bowl, add a cook- mg^poonful oTflour thickening and beat while pouring in the milk, add it to the macaroni, dredge cracker meal over the surface and bake until the liquid is set and surface brown. There should be a little mixed flour and thickening, about as thick as cream al- ways at hand when cooking is going on. The use of a spoonful saves an egg in this dish and is better, but do not use enough to make the macaroni solid and dry. For SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 44 a high-flavoted dish of macaroni, see No. 154, which is macaroni in. a. fondue, like Welsh, rarcbifij' 58&—Cheap Steamed Fruit Pudding. Take trie molasses fruit cake mixture, No. 578. Put it in a cake mould and steam from one to two hours. The color both of pudding and cake will be from yellow to black according to the kind of syrup or molasses used. Servejwith sauce; Nos. Supper* WftlBeaTmush, (3 cents.) Beefsteak (8 orders, 1 lb, net* accents.) Cold beef and ham (from dinner.) - Potatoes, (enough left from dinner.) Biscuits (2 doz, 15 cants.) Fresh wild raspberreis (2 qts, 30 cents.) Cookies (3 doz, 12 cents.) Batter cakes and syrup, (14 cents,) Butter 15, milk and cream 30, coffee, tea 10. Total, $1.49; 25 persons; 6 cents a plate. 587—Cookies—Good Common. 2 cups sugar—a pound* 1 cup butter—% poundl S or 6 eggs. 1 cup milk or water—]4 pints 4 teaspoons baking powder. 8 cups flour—2 pounds. Soften the butter and stir it and the sugar together, add eggs, milk, beat well. Mix the powder in the flour; mix all to a soft dough. Press it together on the table, roll out thin, sift granulated sugar all over and cut out the cakes. The softer the dough can be worked the better the cakes will be. Makes 9 dozen, cost 36 cents, 4 or s cents a dozen; or twice as many 11 rolled extremely thin. Breakfast. July 10* Cracked Wheat mush (2 cups* cracked wheat, 4 cents.) Beefsteak (7 orders, r lb, no cents.) Ham and breakfast bacon (6 orders, 15 cents.) Buttered eggs (No. 558, 18 eggs and butter, 25 cents.) German fried potatoes (No. 511, 20 potatoes, 6 cents.) Corn muffins (No. 286, with 2 cups meal, etc., 20, 12 cents.) Graham batter cakes (with sour milk, like No. 535, 2 qts, 15 cents.) Syrup 12, butter 15, milk and cream 30, coffee, tea, sugar, bread 20. Total, $1 74; 25 persons; 7 cents a plate. Boarders and children are getting filled up. No longer ravenous andcovetous of large portions. Just beginning to have misgivings as to the gentility of large cuts, heaped up dishes and six batter cakes on a plate; willing to have them made small and only three at a time. 'Tis ever thus after a week or two. Out of eggs again, as usual; must make up a dinner without. The big hotels at the depot catch up all that comes to that little country store. Our manager as busy is as a bee from morn till dewey eve playing croquet and has no time to go further to buy. But we are out of meat, too, and somebody must go to the "Glen," which is a few sizes larger .than the depot village, and buy some. 588—Trouble with the Oatmeal. The majority of those who board where the oatmeal or cracked wheat mush is made regularly and made good soon find they cannot make a satisfactory meal without it. It is an article of diet es- pecially desirable for children. I believe, moreover, that more hard work both of hands and head can be done, particularly in hot weather, upon a diet of oatmeal and cream than upon any mixed diet of meat and vegetables. There are two ways of cooking it and the best way is difficult and more or less wasteful. There is no waste in cooking the oatmeal in a farina kettle—as the double kettles are called—but there is a loss of something still. We cooks know by various signs when a dish strikes the peoples' fancy, and know that the oatmeal and cracked wheat that is eaten to the last grain and COOKING FOR PROFIT. for which the disappointed "help'' after the meal want to scrape the kettle clean for a dish for themselves is not that which is cooked in a farina kettle or steam chest, but that cooked in a thick-bottomed saucepan slowly at the back of the range, where a crust bakes under and around it and the mush gets a baked flavor. I think the best way to cook oatmeal mush would be the same as Boston baked beans, in a jar in the oven, but have never been suf- ficiently interested to try it. A cup of oatmeal costing two or three cents re- quires four cups of water to cook it, and makes a quart or two pounds of good food. If we make up our minds that it is cheap enough to throw away the crust that forms in the kettle every time k is made, the best quality can be secured that way, provided there is a slow place on the range for it to simmer for a couple of hours. Such, however, is not the case here. The thin stove fired up with light wood causes the mush to burn at the bottom every other day and the fine baked flavor and the fine theories go up in smoke together. This will never do. So having no farina kettle and there being none to buy at either village, my "sec" and I have hit upon the plan of taking a five-pint milk pail with a tight lid and setting it with the oatmeal, previonsly steeped! in the requisite quantity of water, inside a deep iron pot containing water and so boil and steam it, covered with a lid. These tea-kettle cooks steam many a loaf of brown bread very well by the same plan, and could steam a variety of good puddings in the same connivance if they only knew how to make them. 589—Buttered Eggs. Break some eggs—about 6 or 8 at a time—into a bright saucepan and add for each egg a tablespoonful of melted butter and very little salt. Have a pan of water boiling on the stove; set the saucepan in it and stir and beat the eggs until they are cooked as thickasscrambledeggs. Serve sometimes plain in dishes same as scram- bled eggs, sometimes on fancy toast. 590—Graham Cakes with Spur Milk- Cheapest. It is necessary to mix white flour with the Graham, about half of each. Other- wise they are made the same as the other kind, No. 535. Dinner. Vegetable soup (No. 140; cost nominal, say 16 cents.) Roast loin mutton (3 lbs, 30 cents.) Potted beefsteak (village bought, rough, 30 cents.)' Macaroni with creamed cheese (12 or- ders, \2 cents.) Green peas (from garden, worth 20 cents.) Lima beans (dried, y2 lb, and season- ing, 5 cents.) Tomatoes (1 can, 15 cents.) Potatoes (plain steamed, 3 cents.) Spice pie (No. 593; 3 pies, 19 cents.) Old-fashioned r:ce pudding (2 qts i\ cents; sauce, 3—16cents.)' Condiments, crackers, nuts, raisins, cheese (average, 25 cents.) Butter 15, milk and cream 30, coffee, tea, bread 10. Total, $2 46; 25 persons; nearly 10 cents a plate. 591—Potted Beefsteak. Beef in pieces baked in a covered jar, like Boston beans. Put two or three pounds of rough cut beef into a gallon jar, with a few cloves, a slice of bacon, a bayleaf, salt, pepper, little vinegar and two cups water. Cover the jar with a lid, plate, or greased paper. Bake 3 hours in a slow oven. Then take out the meat, strain the gravy and skim off the fat. Add a tablespoonful of walnut catsup to the gravy and serve it with shapely cuts or strips of the beef. 592—Macaroni with Creamed Cheese. No eggs required, costs about 12 cents for 12 dishes. Y-i pound macaroni. 4 ounces cheese—a htaping cup minced. 2 ounces butter—size of an egg. 2 cups milk. Cheese that is good enough for use is generally too soft to grate, Tmt must be SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 46 chopped fine. Break the macaroni and throw it into boiling water, cook 20 minutes. Warm the butter and cheese in another saucepan and rub them together with a spoon, add milk a little at a time as the cheese becomes hot, and a pinch of cajenne. The mixture must not reach the boiling point. Cheese and butter will combine when warm and the milk grad- ually diluting them makes a thick, creamy sauce, but they separate if boiled. Drain macaroni and pour the creamed cheese over it. Serve it in flat dishes heaped as much as possible. 593—Spice Pie, Vinegar Pie or Har- vest Pie. No eggs required nor milk. 2 cups water—a pint. 1 cup vinegar. 2 cups brown sugar—a pound. 1 ounce butter—small egg size. 1 cup flour—4 ounces. 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon. Boil the water, vinegar and butter to- gether. Mix sugar, flour and cinnamon together dry and dredge them into the boiling liquid, beating at the same time. Take it off the fire as soon as partly thick- ened, before it boils. It will finish cook- ing in the pies. Bake with both a bottom and top crust rolled very thin. It is nec- essary to be particular to get just the right proportion of flour. 594— Baked Rice Pudding witnout Eggs. Neither eggs nor butter required. It is called by a aozen different names, such as Astor House, poor man's pudding and others and is made daily in many fine hotels as an alternative from the richer kinds, which some cannot eat. 1 cup rice—y? pound. 1 cup sugar— % pound. 6 cups milk. Cinnamon or nutmeg. A pinch of salt. Wash the rice in three or four waters, put it into a tin pudding pan, and the sugar, milk, salt and piece of stick cinna- mon with it, all cold, and bake in a slow oven for three or four hours. It may be best to use only five cups of milk at first, and add the other if the time allows the pudding to bake down dry enough. Cover with a sheet of greased paper to keep the top from scorching. Serve with sauce. Supper- Oatmeal (3 cents.) Beefsteak (6 orders, 12 oz, equal 1 lb, gross, 15 cents.) Cold mutton (8 orders, 10 oz, net; charged dinner.) Potatoes (2 ways, 3 cents.) Graham rolls (No. 596; 30 rolls, 12 cents.) Raspberry shortcake with cream, (No. 595; 2 dinner plate size; paste 27; berries and sugar 30; 24 cuts 57 cents.) Cream 40, milk 18. coffee, tea, sugar 14, butter 15. Total, $1 77; 25 persons; over 7 cents a plate. 595—Raspberry Shortcake. Boys made a bargain with me that I should make raspberry shortcake for the crowd if they would go and pick the ber- ries. Imposed the condition that they should bring a gallon. Said they would if they could, but it was a week too early yet for berries to be plenty. They came home at four o'clock in disorder. Had been in old Barnacle's woods an«l the old chap and his hired man came up with switches and wanted to take the berries away from them. Boys called up their big dog to defend them and ran home. I am under solemn promise "not to tell pa." Sorry, for they will be afraid to go to Barnacle's to buy eggs, now. They brought nearly two quarts red raspberries (25 cents.) After looking them over I shook a large cup powdered sugar (5 cents) into them. For the short paste: 8 level cups flour—2 pounds. 2 cups butter— 1 pound. Rub the butter into the flour, after first slicing it thin. When well mingled, wet with two small cups water. Knead the paste smooth, roll out and bake on two jelly cake pans or large pie pans if the others are not at hand. Split the short- cakes when done and spread with berries, both inside and on top. Cut in 8. Cost 47 COOKING FOR PROFIT. 2x/2 cents a cut. Serve cream in in- dividual creamers. 596—Graham Pocket Book Rolls. Graham rolls are a novelty in most places and very nice if made like French rolls, that is, folded over with a touch of butter between, so that they pull open when baked. It requires more practice, however, to make them of good shape, as Graham dough rises faster than white and the shapes run out flat if kept too warm. Of course the more difficult it is to make such an article the more merit and the more of a specialty it is for the one who can. Some white flour must be mixed with the Graham. The addi- tion of the white of an egg to the liquor the dou?h is mixed with, is an improve- ment—Section No. 261. Use com- pressed yeast. Make half in split rolls, the rest a loaf of Graham bread. Breakfast. July 11. Oatmeal (3 cents.) Salmon trout, breaded and fried (15 orders, 4^ lbs, gross, 36; 2 eggs to bread 3; cracker meal 2; lard to fry equal to y2 lb, loss, 6—47 cents.) Beefsteak (8 orders, 1 lb,net, 20 cents.) Breakfast bacon(4orders,^ lb,6cents.) Potatoes German fried (6 cents.) Com bread (No. 599; n cents.) Biscuits (24, is cents.) Batter cakes [cheapest, iqt, 7 cents.] Syrup 10, butter 15, milk, cream 22, coffee, tea 7. Total, $1 69; 25 persons; nearly 7 cents a plate. 597—Salmon Trout Fried. or gingerbread work upon them, but the meaning is not half so literally intended as a remark I heard when old Mr. Srick- tite was building the fine view four-story Sticktite House at Jknsonvale Junction. It was said he built that house with money saved by drying the broken pieces of bread and crushing them to use instead of cracker meal to bread-crumb fried oysters and fish and other things. No doubt but that particular was but one tangible point seized upon to represent a life full of small savins ways, by which wealth was ac- quired in the long run. But I don't see where the harm was in that. Mr. Stick tite had the depot eating house and he had a large oyster trade Desides and he was not the man to give grounds for the cutting sarcasms which are flung at rail- road eating-house sandwiches, bread and i rolls. When they became dry—really, dry and hard—he, instead of palming them off upon helpless travelers took them off his counters and tables and even out of his show cases, had the dark crust shaved off and spread them on trays in a warm plac eover the oven to become dry enough to crush; then, to keep the boys and girls out of mishchief between train times, he made them roll and sift the dried bread so that it looked like corn meal or cracker meal. And some of them could easily save their wages that way. It does not take long to use up a barrel of cracker meal where there is a considerable trade in fried oysters or in a hotel where veal cutlets and fried mush are breaded every day. As our price list of groceries shows cracker meal costs exactly the same price as new crackers, or seven dollars a hun- dred, so a hundred pounds of crushed dried bread is worth just that amount. But is it as good? is the question. Yes, if selected and freed from crust before crushing. Split the fish down both sides of the backbone and take it out, cut the two sides in two-ounce pieces; salt and pep- per, dip in egg and then in cracker meal and fry by immersion in hot lard. 598—Building a House with Bread Crusts. We have all heard of gingerbread houses 599—Fine Corn Bread. Happily for us all this little company of people contains no distressful hypo- chondriacs nor people with special aver- sions. Two harmless hot-water drinking lunatics, that's all. But some of them have intimated that it is essential to their happiness to have corn bread for break- fast constantly, and baked potatoes; or- ders which make those two dishes fixtures SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 48 on the bill of fare from this time forth. For fine corn bread take: 2 heaping cups corn meal. 1 or 2 ounces butter or lar.J—size of ^n egg. 2 eggs, salt. 2 teaspoons baking powder. Milk or water to mix. Make a hollow in the meal and put in the butter and pour in a little boiling water from the teakettle to scald part of the meal. Thin it down with cola milk, add the eggs and salt and lastly the powder. Beat it well with spoon or egg whip. Have the baking pan hot and not greased, If it hisses when the corn batter is poured in the bread never sticks. Per- fect success with corn bread of this fine sort depends on having the batter thi proper consistency. It should be like thick batter-cake mixture when poured in the baking pan. If just right it will rise rounded and smooth and cuts like cake. For corn bread without eggs, see No. G26. plate. Third expressed lot of of meat arrived. Have got prices down to: Mutton chaiged @ 10 cents. Lamb, @ 10. Beef round boneless for^teak, ©13. Beef rib roast, @ 12 J4. Liver, @i2y2. Sweetbreads, small lot presented. Dinner. Cream of rice soup (No. 600; 4 qts, 15 cents.) Trout baked, an gratin (No. 601; 3 lbs, 30 cents.) Roast beef (2 ribs, 4 lbs, 50 cents.) Roast mutton (2 lbs, 20 cents.) Blanquetteoflamb (No. 602; i2orders, 14 cents.) Green peas (10 cents.) Lima beans (charged yesterday's din- ner.) Mashed potatoes (5 cents.) Raspberry meringne (No. 604; 24 or- ders, 36 cents.) Vanilla ice cream (2 qts, 26 cents.) Raisi.is, nuts, cheese, condiments, crackers (average, 25 cents.) Milk, cream 30, coffee, tea 6, butter, bread 10. Total, $2 77; 25 persons; n cents a 600— Cream of Rice Soup. Put into 5 quarts of water some soup bones and the neck and shanks obtained from the newly arrived side of lamb, 3 or 4 small green onions, a pinch of thyme and savory; boiled an hour and took out the pieces of lamb to make the blan- quette. An hour later poured the stock from the bones through a fine strainer into a clean soup pot, and skimmed off the fat. Boiled half a cup of rice in a small saucepan. Made a quart of milk hot and mashed the rice with milk added a little at a time: put it into the soup stock, also a half blade of mace, salt, cayenne, a small carrott from seed bed finely minced. Let simmer and skimmed again. Lastly added a spoonful of thickening, half cup of cream and an ounce of butter. Costs 4 cents a quart. 601—Trout, au Gratin. Au gratin signifies that the fish is gratinated or browned like toast on the surface, and therefore, that it is covered with bread crumbs. It comes handy to express it in that way, as the fish is not exactly breaded as for frying. Split the fish in halves and dredge both sides with salt and pepper. Put a spoon- ful of drippings into your baking pan and let it get not. Dip the skin side of the sides of fish in either milk or egg, and then in cracker meal or crumbs and place in the pan with the breaded side up. Bake it Drown and baste once with butter. Divide neatly in pieces with a sharp knife. Serve either sauce, gravy, or potato balls with it. 602—Blanquette tor White Dish) Lamb with Fried Crusts. of This was the first appearance of the lamb in any form at this table and the little entree was quite sure to be in re- quest; and although but a trifle to fill the bill it served as a premonition to the boarders of more lamb to come. Took the pieces of lamb cooked in the COOKING FOR PROFIT. 49 soup stock, cut into large dice. Boiled a ladleful of stock with teaspoonful minced onion, put the cut meat in and seasoned with salt and pepper. Made white sauce of ladleful of the finished soup (to save time) with cream, butter, thickening and scrap broken nut- meg and a tablespoon of mushroom cat- sup (private stock from the cook's valise) and poured it to the lamb. Serve with cut shapes of fried bread for border and a sprinkling of green peas. 603—Fancy Shapes of Fried Bread. These may be very ornamental if fried to a clean, bright yellow-brown color in the clear oil ofbutter or in lard. Cut slices of bread in diamond shapes or six sided and cut out the middle, then divide by a cut across and you have a border for each end of the dish and the filling will be in the middle, or, cut thin slices and then take a scollop-edge cutter and cut out crescent shapes and fry them. 604—Raspberry Meringne. Bought wild raspberries at 12 cents a quart. Meringne is best made with cake as at Nos. 195, and 395, but having paste left over from shortcake trimmings of previous day used that. Lined two shal- low pans with thin crust and baked light colored. Spread them both with one quart berries mixed with half cup sugar. Whipped 8 whites, stirred in 8 teaspoons sugar, spread on top and baked lightly. Made 24 cuts; cost 1M cents each. Serve with cream. 605—Vanilla Ice Cream. 1 quart milk. 8 yolks (left from raspberry meringne.) 1 neaping cup sugar. 1 pint cream. Vanilla extract 1 tablespoon. Made rich boiled custard of the milk, sugar and yolks (No. 200) strained into treezer, added the cream and flavor. Takes half hour to freeze and half hour more to stand and become firm, 3 quarts after freezing, 8 orders to a quart, i% cents each. Supper. Broiled Pickerel (3 lbs, gross, and but- ter, 30 cents.) Beefsteak (6 orders 12 ozs, ri cents.) Cold meats (6 orders, charged dinner.) Codfish in cream (4 orders, 3 cents.) Baked potatoes (3 cents.) Butter rolls (No. 607; 20 cents.) Raspberries and cream (2 qts, berries 25, sugar ?, cream 20; 50 cents.) Plain white cake (No. 609; 2 lbs, 17 cents.) Butter 5, milk, cream 20, coffee, tea, bread, sugar 15. Total, $1 74; 25 persons; 7 cents a plate. 606—Broiled Pickerel with French Potatoes. Pickerel is a firmer fish than Mackinaw trout, less oily than whitefish and pre- ferred by many. Split by cutting down both sides of the back bone. Cut each half in three or four, dip in flour, put in the hinged wire broiler, broil both sides and brush with butter. Serve with a few crisp "Francaise" potatoes in the plate. 607—Butter Rolls. Sometimes called tea cake,, and also Sally Lunn. 2 pounds light bread dough. 1 ounce sugar—a spoonful. 4 ounces butter—}4 cup. 3 yolks of eggs. 1 teacup milk or cream. 1 pound flour to work in. Take the dough, already light, 4 hours before the meal, mix in all the ingredients. Let rise 2 hours. Knead, then make the dough into round balls and roll them flat. Brush over with melted butter and place two of the flats together, one on the other. Pross in the center. Rise an hour, and bake. When done, slip a thin shaving of fresh butter inside each and brush the top over slightly, too. Should be made very small if to serve whole, or as large as saucers, to cut. Makes 8 large enough to cut in 4. Cost buttered 20 cents. J>/ COOKING FOR PROFIT. 617; 3 large, 20 cents.) Pick! _ __kles, condiments, cheese, nuts, 1 rai sins, crackers average, 25 cents. Butter 10, milk, cream 22, coffee, tea 10. Total, $2 44; 25 persons; nearly 10 cents a plate. 613—Italian Soup. 4 quarts soup stock (obtained as at No. 582.) 1 quart milk. 4 ounces macaroni broken small. 1 cup cooked lamb, veal or chicken cut small. 1 cup mixed vegetables same way. Chopped parsely or other green herb or vegetaBle. Salt, cayenne, thickening. It is a white soup with macaroni, etc., in it. Strain off the stock, skim free from grease, put in the vegetables and maca- roni and afterwards the cut meat and milk. When lamb is boiled the broth has a milky appearance and it is advisa- ble to make white soup of that material. 614—Beet Greens. Take the leaves of young beets, throw away the thick stalks, wash the leaves and keep in cold water. Shortly before dinner put them into a pot of boiling water in which throw a lump of baking soda size of a bean. The greens cook in about half an hour. Drain in a colander. Season with salt and corned beef fat or butter and cut them small in the pan. 615—Rice with Cream. Wash half a cup of rice and put it to boil in a cup of water with a lid on. When nearly dry add half a cup of milk and little salt. When done mix in a half a cup of cream. Serve same as a vegetable in deep dishes. 616—Puddings without Eggs. At Cedar Point Cottage on Nipantuck Island, one day I found Mary Jane in a state of great perturbation; she was sit- ting on the edge of a washtub, her face very red and with her wetted thumb she was turning over the leaves of a cook book at a rapid rate. "I don't know what to g.ve 'em," she said. "What's the matter?" "Pudding: Them fifteen boarders will be here in less than an hour as hungry as go-its, and they won't think they've had any dinner if there don't be pudding every day." "Well," I said, "you know there are some kinds can be made in a few min- utes," and I looked to see whether her fire was good. "I know," she returned, "yes, I know lots, but all the dratted puddings seems to want eggs and there isn't an egg on the island thisblessed day." "Oh, that's the trouble; then why not try this," and I pointed out No. 176. "Theieit is again," says Mary Jane, "that's cherry pudding and where would I get the cherries?" "Don't you see that what is good for one kind of fruit is good for any other kind? That receipt shows the way they make the steamed apple pudding or apple rolls as they call it at some high-priced city restaurants; for never an egg do they use for puddings at some of those places; they chop the apples small and use the same as that says to use cherries." "And would these blackberries do that I was going to make pie of and didn't find time?'' "Of course they will, and it only takes about five minutes and your pot there is boiling and there is the steamer hanging up clean and ready and you must do this way, use a large pie plate, and be sure not to have the layers of dough too thick because they rise so much that the pud- ding will seem to have too little fruit if you do. It will be all the better for being made late and being served as soon as it is done." By that time Mary Jane's perplexity was all over, and when the time came to change those fifteen plates she had ready for them as fine a pudding as you would wish to meet on a summer day. For an- other class of puddings without eggs see Nos. 631, 639, 652, 594 and index. SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 5* 617—Chocolate Butter Pie without Eggs. The same as No. 577 with a small cup of grated chocolate added to the milk when put on to boil with the butter in it. Chocolate flavor is not good in combin- ation with eggs, but it is with butter and cream. Chocolate custard frozen is not much esteemed, but chocolate with pure cream is one of the favorite ices. So this chocolate butter pie is the best flavored compound of the sort that can be made. If wanted as good as it can be, use a pound of sugar ana half a pound of butter to a quart of milk and four ounces flour and the cup of chocolate. Makes three pies large and deep, each to cut in eight. Supper. Discouraged landloard. Twelfth of July gone and still "nobody in the ouse, comparatively speaking. Some very fine people sure to come soon and there is a party or two talked of but meantime he says there is no use of our doing our best. Cut down expense and take it easy. There is pleasant row- ing on the lake and the girls have struck up some new tunes. Cracked wheat mush (3 cents.) Lamb stew with potatoes (10 cents.) Cold roast beef (charged dinner.) Potato pats and German fried (cold served previous meals,) French rolls (10 cents.) Flour batter cakes (cheapest, No. 535; 2 qts, 10 cents.) Peaches (3 lb, can Cal. in syrup, 25 cents.) Chelsea buns (No. 619; 22, 16 cents.) Syrup 8, butter 20, milk, cream 32, coffee, tea, sugar, bread 17. Total, $1 51; 25 persons; 6 cents a plate. 618—Lamb and Potato Stew, or Gal- limaufry. This is said by one of our French authors to be the ancient dish of gal- limaufry a la Languedocienne. It does not hurt anybody to eat it, however, and only costs 10 or 12 cents with all its wealth of name thrown ir.. Take some pieces of cold lamb; about 1 pound of clear meat will do and it may be the neck or shoulder that was boiled until just done in the soup boiler. Shave off the dark portions and cut the meat in Latge dice. Cut an equal amount of raw potatoes the same way and put both on to boil with clear broth or water barely to cover. Put in a small onion cut up and if to be true to name a clove of garlic and sprig of green thyme and little chop- ped parsley. When it has sttwed until the potatoes are done, season with pepper and salt and thicken it slightly if the potatoes have not boiled away and thick- ened it already. It is a neat looking little stew and good for a family supper. 619—Chelsea Buns, without Eggs. One of the sweetest warm breads that serve in place of cake when there are no eggs to be had. Take nearly half the dough that is mixed up for French rolls and work into it a few currants. Roll it out to a very thin sheet, brush over with softened but- ter, sprinkle sugar all over, then cut the dougn into ribbons and coil them into spiral buns. Place with plenty pf room between in a buttered pan, rise an hour and bake. Sugar over when done. For exact proportions, see No. 267. That variety is like currant rolls, these are flat coils. Breakfast. July 13. Oatmeal (3 cents.) Beefsteaks (6,12 cents.) Lamb chops (10, 1 lb, net, 1% gross, 15 cents.) Ham (4, 8 cents.) Shirred eggs (No. 94; 18, and butter, 24 cents.) French fried potatoes (6 cents.) Corn muffins (No. 286; 24, 12 cents.) French rolls (8 cents.) Graham batter cakes (1 qt, 8 cents.) Syrup, butter 23, milk, cream 32, coffee, tea, sugar 12. Total, $i 63; 25 persons; 6^ cents, a plate. SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 54 623—German Puffs, Flannel Rolls, Muffins or Popovers. It makes a great difference whether any dish or product of skill is the present fashion or not. We have all heard of somebody's popovers and come across remarks in the farmers' papers about somebody else's popovers that wouldn't pop, without wanting any in ours par- ticularly. So when I saw that Mary Jane, at Cedar Point Cottage, on Nipantuck Island had a stove-full of very fine ones ready for supper I admired them, and told her they were splendid and she ought to be proud that she could make them (as indeed she was) without yet caring to get the receipt for my books; having so many good yeast-raised fancy breads al- ready; and, besides, I had heard Mrs. Tingee condemn popovers on account of their using up her eggs too last and not being very good eating anyhow. "But that isn't what we call 'em," said Mary Janes, "them's flannel rolls." "They are popovers, Mary Jane," I persisted; "did you never hear of pop- overs, and popovers that wouldn't pop?" "The baker at the Nipar>uck House called 'em flannel rolls," said she, "and I guess he knew and he brought me the receipt before he went away." She heaved a little sigh and turned away as if there was nothing more to be said on that question. Afterwards, upon the very voluminous breakfast and supper bills of fare of a very large summer hotel I found printed '' Kaaterskill Flannel Rolls," and in think- ing over what they might be, naturally reverted to that stove-full of "flannel rolls on Nipantuck Island, and learning almost immediately that the Grand Pacific was serving them as "muffins," the Palmer House as "German puffs" and the Mat- teson as "flannel rolls," I began to feel like a collector of coins, who has heard of a date that is not in his collection, or like one of those Dutch tulip fanciers when they heard of a new color, and started out to catch up with the procession. I soon overtook my friend the steward of the Matteson who, for the good of the public handed me this: take 2 eggs. 2 cups milk- -a pint. 2 cups flour—io ounces. Salt, a small teaspoon. Break the eggs into a bowl; beat them light and keep adding the milk to them gradually while your are beating. That takes about five minutes. Add the salt. When all the milk is in put in the flour, all at once, and beat it smooth, like cream. Butter the inside of six coffee cups, divide the batter into them and bake in a moderate oven about half an hour. It is to be observed there is no powder nor raising of any kind in them and no butter, yet they rise high above the tops of the cups and are hollow inside when done. 1 hey are not perfect if made with skimmed milk. When they collapse in the cups and come out tough and heavy it is owing to the baking, the stove being not hot enough on the bottom, or, pos- sibly not having been thoroughly beaten. I have made large batches and baked some for early breakfast and beaten the same batter again and baked it two hours later and found the last to be as good as the first. Cost, 6 cents. But the cups are not the best for a number, holding too much. There are deep gem pans shaped like small tumblers that suit better to bake in. These are a pleasing kind of bread to make, their remarkable lightness making them always something of a marvel. Breakfast. July 14. Cracked wheat mush (2 cups raw, 3 cents.) Beefsteak (14 orders, i$i lbs, and but- ter, 25 cents.) Breakfast bacon (6 orders, 8 ozs, 7 cents.) Calf's liver broiled (5 orders, 7 cents.) Potatoes (4 cents.) Plain rolls (30, 10 cents.) Corn bread (without eggs, No. 626; 12 orders, 5 cents.) Batter cakes (cheapest yeast-raised, No. 267; 3 pts, 7 cents.) Syrup (common, 1 pt, 7 cents.) Butter 15, milk, cream 30, coffee, tea, sugar 12. Total, $1 32; 25 persons; 5^ cen ; a- plate. ^> COOKING FOR PROFIT. 55 624—Plain Rolls. For 30 rolls dissolve 1 cent's worth of yeast in 2 cups of milk or water, warm but not hot, add a teaspoonful of salt and stir in the flour enough to make dough (2 lbs, 6 cents.) It is just as good made up in dough at first as if a sponge was set, (that is, making a soft-batter first, and working it up into dough afterwards,) the part that makes the most difference in quality, is the proper kneading of the dough which should be as for coffee cakes, No. 262. If made up over night, the dough will be light in the morning. Knead it well, make up in round rolls, touch between each one with a brush dipped in melted butter to cause them to separate easily when done. Rise an hour unci t)tilcc The rolls will have a thin and soft crust and will be much better looking if they are brushed over the tops with a very lit- tle lard or butter when they are first placed in the pan. It takes away the rough and floury appeaiance of common bread. 625—Plain Bread. The same as plain rolls preceding. That quantity, makes 2 loaves. A par- ticularly sweet home made Vienna bread is made by giving the bread only one rising: mixing with milk, compressed yeast and salt at, say, 3 in the afternoon, making up into loaves at 6 and putting in the oven almost as soon, or in 15 or 20 minutes. Brush over with milk after baking. 626—Corn Bread without Eggs. Baking powder and sweet milk can be used as well. The same can be raised with yeast. Makes 12 to 16 orders; costs about 5 cents. 627—Yeast rfaised Batter Cakes Without Eggs. 3 cups flour. 2 cups warm water. yz cup yeast—or 1 cent's worth-com- pressed. 1 tablespoon melted lard. Same of syrup—(to make them brown easily.) yz teaspoon salt. Mix all the ingredients together like setting sponge for Dread—with very cold water if made over night for breakfast, or else 6 hours before the meal with warm. Beat thoroughly both at time of mixing and just before baking. Cold weather prevails: "it rains and the wind is never weary. The 'bus will not go to the trains to-day. The driver has started with a wagon to a distant town to buy brick wherewith to build two chim- neys in the cottages occupied by the shivering guests of the house, that they may have fires. At present they are huddled around the dining room fire- place. Hope they have some among them "whose smiles can make a sum- mer," for we need one, badly. It is as light and soft and smooth- crusted as wheat bread. 1% cups com meal. % cup flour. 1 tablespoon sugar. \i teaspoon soda; same of salt. 4 tablespoons melted butter or lard. Sour milk or buttermilk enough to mix it up about as thin as batter cakes. Beat up well with the spoon. Bake it in a shallow pan. Have the pan hot and greased before pouring it in. Hard Times Dinner. But it was all good, and nobody would ever suspect that there was a paucity of material or omission of the usual in- gredients. Pearl barley soup (No. 628; 5 qts, 20 cents.) Roast beef (rib ends, ij^ lbs, 15 cents.) Roast lamb (brisket, shoulder, left when ribs were taken for chops; 5 lbs, 50 cents.) Macaroni and cheese (without eggs or butter; No. 629; 9 cents.) Potatoes in cream sauce (5 cents.) Tomatoes (1 can, 15 cents.) Corn (1 can, 15 cents.) Pumpkin pie (No. 630; without eggs or butter; 3 large; 24 cuts, 24 cents.) SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 56 Plain boiled rice pudding (No. 631, without eggs; 3 pints, 14 cents; sauce 4—18 cents.) Coffee 10, tea 3, milk 4 qts, 12, cream 1 qt, 20, butter average 15, bread 6, cheese 5. Total, $242; 24 persons; 10 cents a plate. 628—Pearl Barley Soup. 4 quarts soup stock. 1 quart milk. 5 tablespoons barley. 1 cupful minced vegetables. 1 ounce butter. Salt; cayenne. t • It is a white soup suitable to'be made with mutton or lamb. To obtain the stock boil any spare pieces of meat in 5 quarts of water for 2 hours. Put in a small tur- nip, onion and carrot, and stalk of celery. Strain, skim, add the milk. Boil the barley separately. A teaspoonful to each quart is enough. Pour off the bluish barley water and put the barley in the soup. Mince a few spoonfuls of differ- ent colored vegetables, such as string beans, young carrots, white turnips, green onions, add them to the soup and boil half an hour. Skim while boiling. Sea- son and add butter. 629—Macaroni and Eggs. Cheese without "I never could understand," said Mrs. Tingee, one day, "how the Italians can be so poor, as the papers say they are, and yet eat so much macaroni as the pa- pers tell us they do: I should think it would break them up buying eggs to cook it with. But then," she added reflectively, "sometimes the papers say things that ain't so. Do you cook macaroni some- times?" "Yes ma'am, quite often." "Do you put cheese in it?* "Yes." "And eggs?" "Yes: and butter and milk anrl toma- toes and gravy and oysters and chicken and many more things." "Ah; I had a girl once who wanted to make a dish of macaroni and I kept lay- ing off to get the things together, but, somehow, I never did. Do you know, a friend of mine told me she once knew a hotel cook who never made a dish of macaroni without putting eight eggs in it! Do you think that v;as true?" "Yes, ma'am; and I have no doubt but that there are hotel cooks whp will even use as many as twelve, or thirteen." Then Mrs. Tingee said, "O, my!" It is a singular trait in this lady that she never seems to regard the difference between a dish for two hundred people and a dish for two or three; all she sees is the eight eggs gone at one fell swoop. I venture the opinion that the Italians eat macaroni alone or in soup or gravy without much thought of cheese and without any thought of eggs, and I doubt v^ry much whether many 01 them would touch the dry and heavy cake of macaroni and cheese that is seen at many hotel tables in this country. There is a good example of an Italian way of preparing macaroni, spaghetti, lassagnes, ndilini and other such pastes at our No. 65; which requires neither eggs nor butter, and here is another just as good: j£ pound macaroni. 2 or 3 ounces cheese—or a grated cup- ful. 3 or 4 basting spoonfuls of fat from the roasting meat. a cups water or milk. 2 spoonfuls flour thickening. 'A handful of crushed crackers. Boil the macraoni 20 minutes, then pour off the water. Put in the cheese and other ingredients and salt; turn it into a 2-quart pan. strew the crushed crackers on top and bake brown. The flour thickening added is to form a sort of sauce in it, but not enough to cake to the macaroni together. When there is a suitable sauce or gravy ready at hand it can be used to good advantage in that way. The strained gravy from a chicken stew, for example. Cost, 9 or 10 cents for 12 dishes. 630—Pumpkin or Squash Pie without Eggs. The bakery pumpkin pie; the pie of the lunch houses and shops. . 1 can of pumpkin, or a quart fresh 57 COOKING FOR PROFIT. cooked (which is cheaper.) i cup sugar. 2 cups milk. 3 basting spoonfuls flour-and-water thickening. i teaspoon each ground ginger and cinnamon. Mash the pumpkin through a colan- der, stir in the other ingredients. It makes 3 pints, enough to fill 3 deep pie plates lined with thin crusts of common short paste. Pumpkin 14, sugar 4, milk, spice and flour 2, crusts 4—24 cents or 8 cents each. 631—Boiled Rice. Pudding without Eggs. 1 cup nee. 4 cups milk. V£ cup sugar. Butter size of an egg. Wash the rice free torn dust and cook it with the milk in a farina kettle or double kettle. If you have none put the sugar and rice both into the milk and let boil in a saucepan at the back of the stove with the steam shut in. Never stir it while cooking and it will not burn. When done stir in the butter. Serve in small pudding saucers with sauce poured over. For the sauce, boil y? cup sugar and piece of lemon, nutmeg or stick cinnamon in 2 cups water; thicken slightly, add small piece of butter and simmer until it is like jelly. Two strangers arrived on the five o'clock train. Just the luck. The only time the 'bus failed to go to the train somebody came. But they got a livery rig and came over. Somebody says they are real dukes. Later: They are real Dukes. Not the European article, but members of the firm of Duke and Diamond, the well- known advertising agents, of Lakeport. Supper. Cfacted wheat (3 cents.) Beefsteak (8 orders, \y2 lbs, 20 ants.) Ham and eggs (8 orders, 36 cents.) Cold lamb (Hb, from dinner, charged.) French fried potatoes (6 cents.) German puffs (No. 623; 30; 23 cents.) Plain rolls (few from breakfast.) Wild raspberries (2 qts, 10 cents.) White cake (without eggs, No. 632; 15 cents.) Cream 30, sugar 10, milk 12, butter, bread 20, coffee, tea 12. Total, $1 97; 27 persons; 7^ cents a plate. 1 632—White Cake without Eggs. 1 small cup sugar—6 ounces. % cup butter—4 ounces. 2 small cups milk—little less than a pint. 2 heaped teaspoons baking powder. S cups flour— 1 \i pounds. Warm the butter and stir it and the sugar together until well mixed, then add the milk and a little flavoring of nutmeg, lemon, vanilla or cinnamon. Mix the powder in the flour, stir all together. It makes a stiff batter. The more it is beaten up with the spoon the better the cake. To make it as white as if made with white of eggs, one cup of the milk used should be sour, or else add a small tea- spoon of cream tartar—the same thing that makes "angel food cake" so white. Brush the top with milk before baking. 633—White Layer Cakes without Eggs. Bake the white cake of the preceding receipt in jelly cake pans; spread with jelly when done; place two or three to- gether and frost over the top. Should be very thin in the cake pans or they rise too high to make handsome layers. 634—Chocolate Layer Cakes without Eggs. Put half cup sugar over the fire to boil with a large spoonful of water and add to it two ounces of chocolate. When melted use instead of jelly as in the preceding receipt. SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S J potatoes 10 (57 cents). Baked plum pudding (No. 29, with sauce, 35 cents). Custard pie (2 pies 18 cents). Cherry water ice (No. 242, 30 cents). Delicate cake (No. 770, 1 lb 10 cents). Jelly roll (No. 7, 1 lb 10 cents). Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, pickles, condiments, 39 cents. Milk, cream, coffee, tea, bread, butter, 60 cents, Total $5 63; 39 persons; 14^ cents a plate. 9' COOKING FOR PROFIT. 763-Consomme with Italian Pastes or aux Pates a" Italic It is clear consomme made as for royal (No. i w) with some sort of Italian pastes cookea separately, washed free from meal and put in. These are various, such as alphabet pastes of the same material as macaroni stamped in letters or in fancy figures. There is a short kind of maca- roni for the purpose, or common maca- roni may be cooked and afterwards cut into quarter inches and put in the con- somme. Fidelini, spaghetti and lasagnes are other varities of macaroni which can be used in the same ways. 764—Salmon, Scottish Style or a I'Eoossaise. Have some water boiling ready, throw in salt enough to make it taste, and half an hour before dinner drop in the fish and boil gently at the back of the stove. Stir some butter to make it soft without melt- ing it and mix in lemon juice and parsley. Cook potatoes with the skins on, peel when done and cut in quarters. Take up the salmon (there should be a fish kettle with a drainer or false bottom to boil fish in) serve small portions individually with the prepared butter for sauce and the cut potatoes on the same plate. 765—Braised Tongue, Flemish Style, a la Flamande. It is corned tongue larded through lengthwise with strips of fat pork, sim- mered in a covered saucepan with vege- tables and seasonings, sliced across the larding so as to show it, laid upon a spoonful of greens in the individual dish to serve. Anything in the style of Flan- ders or Holland may be expected to come up with a garniture of greens. 766—Pork Cutlets, Sauce Robert. Cut pork chops or steaks very small and thin, dredge with salt and pepper and dip into flour; lay them in a frying pan ready. Cook on top of the stove a few minutes before dinner, using roast meat fat or butter and get them brown. Serve a spoonful of sauce Robert in the dish ana a cutlet in it and a fried bread crou- ton for garnish. 767—Sauce Robert Named after a French restaiiranteur of the last century who made it known and valued as an accompaniment to broiled pork. Mince an onion extremely fine and stir over the fire in a small saucepan with a little oil or clear butter until it is cooked and beginning to brown, then put in a little made mustard, a tablespoonful of vinegar, pepper, and half a cup of light veal gravy or Spanish sauce. Skim off the oil or butter as it rises. Serve without straining—it is a yellowish brown sauce with miinccd onion in it. 768—Rice Plain Southern Way. The object is to get the grains loose and distinct and served dry although well cooked. Wash a cupful of rice in three waters; put in on to Doil in four cups of water and shut up with a lid. Never stir it. When done, or in half an hour, drain off the water; wash it in cold water, pour into a colander to drain, put back into the saucepan with a little salt shaken about in it and let get hot again without more boiling; serve dry. 769—Rich Baked Plum Pudding. Had broken cake and frosting from party supper, crushed and rolled it to crumbs, took 6 heaped cups of cake crumbs and ic- ing. 6 eggs. i^Tcupsmilk. * % cup brandy. i lemon. Mix eggs and milk together, stir in the cake crumbs, add the grated rind of the lemon and the juice, stir up and bake covered with buttered paper to prevent blistering. Cost: cake 2 lb 10, eggs 8, milk 3, lemon 2, brandy 6; 29 cents for 2 quarts. Serve with sauce sabayon or transparent. SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 92 770—Delicate Cake. One of the very best white cakes. 2 cups granulated sugar—1 pound light weight. 2 cups white butter—j£ pound. 13 whites of eggs—5^ pound. 2 ^Cfl°our.StarCh-!' P°-d together. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. 1 teaspoon baking powder. Flavoring extract or little brandy if wished, but not essential; % cup milk. Sift the cream tartar and baking der in the mixed starch and flour. Soften the butter and stir it and t e sugar together to a cream; add the whites a little at a time, without previous beat- ing, then the flour and starch and beat well; and at last beat in the milk. Bake either in moulds or in jelly cake pans. If lemons are at hand the juice of one may be used instead of cream tartar; but use no soda in white cakes. pow- Dinner July 27. Soup—cream a la duchesse (8 qts 45 cents). Scalloped salmon, frizzed potatoes (fish, charged previous days, say, 20 cents). Boiled corned tongue [2% lbs, 28 cents). Corned beef and cabbage (1 lb, and cabbage 16 cents). Roast beef, (2 ribs, 3 lbs net, 39 cents). Spring lamb (side, 7 lbs net, 80 cents). Roast mutton (for second table, 4 lbs, 48 cents). Grenadins of veal, sauce Napolitaine (8 orders, 1 lb select and sauce 24 cents). Brochettes of kidney, sauce claremont (4 orders, 10 cents). Mashed turnips 4, hot slaw 9, green peas 15, stewed tomatoes 15, potatoes two days 15 (57 cents). Steamed pound pudding, wine sauce (2 lbs and sauce, 28 cents). Apple tarts (24 tarts, 30 cents). Boston cream puffs (No. 288; 32 puffs half size, 36 cents). Sultana cake and pound cake (15 cents). Vanilla ice cream (2^ qts pure cream, su >ar, etc., 70 cents). Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, pickles, condiments (48 cents). Milk 36, cream 20, butter 20, bread 12 (88 cents). Coffee 10, tea 3, sugar 4 (17 cents). Total $6 99; 48 persons; 14% cents a plate. 771—Cream Soup, a la Duchesse. A rich white soft soup like cream of chicken with egg custards. Boil either a chicken or white veal in the stock until quite tender; chop in the meat and pound it in a mortar. Boil a cup of rice and when done and drained pound it also with the meat and pass throuh a sieve. Use 4 or 5 quarts of seasoned stock, 2 or 3 quarts rich milk and the puree of chicken and rice to thicken. Beat 4 eggs slightly, season with nut- meg, salt and pepper; put in a deep pan and cook either in steamer or in pan of water in the oven. Cut out cork shapes of custard with a column cutter and put in the soup just before serving. 772—Scalloped Salmon, Plain or au Vin. Take cold cooked salmon which may have been left from a previous day and some other fish or canned salmon to make enough, and pick it into pieces of even size without bones. Mix finely minced bread and cracker meal in equal quanti- ties. Butter a baking pan, cover the bottom with the crumbs, place fish enough to cover that, and plenty of crumbs again on top. Take soup stock and milk if to be_ in plain style, or soup stock and white wine if that way, enough to thoroughly moisten, season with pepper and salt, pour over the scallop and bake brown. Cut out squares, place on the dishes as neatly as possible, add a border of frizzed potatoes for decoration. 773—Frizzed Potatoes. The same as Julienne (No. 729) but shred much finer. Slice raw potatoes, with a Saratoga cutter, then place the 93 COOKING FOR PROFIT. slices upon each other and shred them. Fry almost white in fresh lard. Serve as a garnish. 774—Grenadins of Veal, Napolitaine. Small selected veal steaks, size of the palm of the hand, larded with a few strips of fat pork, baked in a quick oven, served with sauce in the dish. Slice the leg of veal for them and use the trimmings in soup or stews. Draw the lardoons through so that a dozen ends will cluster in the middle of each grena- din. Butter a pan, strew a very little minced onion, salt and pepper; place the veal close together; bake light brown. Have some clear soup stock boiled down to glaze and baste them with it while bak- ing. 775—Sauce Napolitaine. Mix grated horseradish in thin white sauce, made by thickening strong chicken broth with white roux. Butter sauce di- luted will answer the purpose ordinarily— the horseradish is the chief ingredient. 776—Brochettes of Kidneys and Ham. i cup vinegar. i cup water. 4 yolks of eggs. i tablespoonbutter. l tablespoon salt. Shred the cabbage fine, mix the yolks well with some water put everything into a saucepan or into the sink of the steam chest and stir occasionally until it reaches boiling point; then keep it where it will not boil. This makes a yellow sort of cream dressing in the cabbage; but boiling curdles the egg and would make it noc so good. Addminced red pepper if you have it; some add sugar. Slice up the kidneys that may have ac- cumulated, and small pieces of ham, cut them to one size as near as can be, and not larger than a silver half dollar. Run them on Iron skewers, a slice of kidney and a slice of ham alternately until the skewers are full. Trim off corners with a straight cut, lav in a pan and bake. Serve in a spoonful oi sauce in the dish, pushing off the portion from the skewer with a fork. These may also be fried in hot fat and served for breakfast; also breaded and fried. 777—bailee Claremonl. Mince onions and stir over the fire in a little oil until cooked; add brown sauce or light veal gravy; skim off the oil as it rises. 778—Hot Slaw. 779—Hot Slaw Another Way. The common hotel way of making hot slaw is to put the shred cabbage into a large saucepan with roast meat or bacon fat and vinegar and stir it over the fire until the cabbage is partly cooked and the vinegar has dried out, making a sort of imitation of sour krout; it is cheap. i or 2 heads white cabbage. 780—Steamed Pound Pudding. i pound sugar—any kind. 34 pound butter. io eggs. i pound flour. Stir the butter and sugar together; add the eggs, two at a time, not beaten; when all are in add the flour. Beat up well. Use part to steam in a mould or pan for pudding. It takes from one to one and a half hours to steam; must have a good lid on or paper cover under the lid and plenty of steam. As the pudding is sliced like cake and "goes a good way" there will be some of the batter to spare to bake a pound cake at the same time. Serve sauce with the puading. If no wine, add some fruit juice to the syrup made of sugar and starch and boil until clear. 781—Apple Tarts. Made of puff paste and cooked apple put through a colander and well sweet- ened. Canned apples will answer when fresh cannot be had. Roll out puff paste, cut flats and line large patty pans or jeni pans, put in a SAN FRANC/SCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 94 tablespoon of apple and bake. A favor- ite sort of pastry, richer than apple pie and sells well at the fine bakeries. 782—Eclairs a la Creme The French name for cream puffs No. 288 when filled with whipped cream. In places where pure cream can be obtain- ed, as at this summer resort, instead of using the pastry custard take cream, set in a pan ot ice water, sweeten, and then whip with the wire egg-whisk until it is frothy and thick. Flavor with vanilla or lemon; cut the puffs open at top fill with whipped cream and replace the piece. Cream puffs can be made for 15 cents a dozen ofsmall size with eggs at a low price, and cream. 783—Sultana Cake Make delicate cake, No 770, and add to it a pound of sultana seedless raisins. 784—Spanish Slrck Sauce. When the number of people to be pro- vided for amounts to forty or fifty, it is a saving of labor to keep stock sauces on hand ;the most useful is that which has come to be called Spanish sauce, con- taining a small proportion of tomatoes. It will have to be maae every second or third day and kept cold until all is used. Take a large saucepan, pour into it about a cupful of the clear oil of melted butter and lay in some pieces of raw ham—the rough ends will do but no smoky outside. Throw in 6 or 8 onions or leeks or both, cut in large pieces, as much turnips and carrots, a tablespoon of cloves ana some alspice and crushed black pepper, lay on these some soup bones, veal shank and neck, flank of beef and any small pieces that can be spared and set over the fire without any water but with a lid on to slew and slowly become light brown, stirring it frequently with a long wooden paddle. In about half an hour or an hour,accord- ing to the heat of the fire, put in a small can of tomatoes and 5 or 6 quarts of soup stock or part water, and a handful of salt. Let cook slowly for 2 hours then thicken with flour to be about like a tolerably thick soup, and presently strain it off through a fine gravy strainer and set it away to become cold. The fat can be taken off when cold. There should not be_ enough tomatoes used to make everything the sauce goes in taste of thein. The uses of this Spanish sauce are to add to soups of several kinds. Mock Tur- tle, green turtle and other such soups are halfmade when this sauce is made,and a number of brown sauces need only cer- tain other ingredients, such as fried min- ced onion or mushrooms to be added to the stock sauce, to bring them to an easy completion. Dinner July 28 Soup—Mock turtle (8 qts, 60 cents.) Sliced tomatoes and cucumbers (iocts.) Fish—Redfish au court-bouillon (4 lbs and sauce 56 cents) New Potatoes. Corned beef and tongue (12 orders 22 cents.) Roast beef (1 rib 2^ lbs 30 cents.) Roast leg mutton (4 lbs net 50 cts.) Fricandeau of veal, Italienne (2 lbs veal, lardoons, sauce, 40 cts.) Small patties a la Toulouse (8 orders 24cents.) String beans in espagnole 10, cabbage 10, stewed turnips 5, rice 5, potatoes 15, beets in vinegar4, (49 cents.) Apple pie, old style (3 pies 25 cents.) Boiled cinnamon pudding, hard sauce (3 lbs and sauce 30 cents.) Vanilla frozen custard (3 qts and freez- ing 60 cents.) Cakes and star kisses (No k; 20 cents.) Nuts, raisins, crackers, cheese, pick- les, condiments, (48 cents.) Milk, cream, butter, bread, coffee, tea, sugar, (1,00) Total, $6.24; 48persons; 13 cents a plate. 785-Mock Turtle Soup Light brown, rather like a thin gravy with square cut pieces of calfs headin it and chopped hard boiled yolks, wine and lemon. Boil a calfs head and feet for 2 hours— the head previously split and tongue and brains taken ont. Take the calfs head liquor 4 qts and Spanish stock (No. 784) 4 quarts, mix, boil, thicken slightly, strain, skim free from grease. Cut half 95 COOKING FOR PROFIT. the calfs head into large dice and add salt, cayenne, little sherry and juice of half of a lemon and chopped yolks of 2 eggs If no stock sauce on hand, and the soup must be started from the beginning, but- ter the bottom of a saucepan and lay in 2 slices ot lean ham. a handful of onions, same of turnips and carrots and fry them together. Put in half can tomatoes, two bay leaves, cloves, parsley, thyme, the calfs head liquor and strong soup stock made in the usual way, enough to make about 2 gallons. Boil an hour and thick- en either with roux or flour and water, Strain, add calfs head, wine lemon juice, sherry, salt and cayenne. 786—Redfish au Court-Bouillon. This is on2 of the specialties of New Orleans and all Southern holels and res- taurants. The court-bouillon is not the same seasoned stock for boiling a whole fish in, that is generally known by that name and which contains wine, but is a sort of soup of onions, thyme, garlic, olive oil and tomatoes in which the slices offish are stewed and both fish and sauce served together. No one of the ingredients named should be in excess, but all in moderate proportions. It is a standing dish on the breakfast bills of fare of the best hotels in the Southern cities,trout, snapper, or other good fish taking the place according to the market. Without expecting it to meet with any particular appreciation in this little community. I let it appear once for novelty, our butch- er's little shipment of sea fishes allowing the opportunity. 787—Sauce Court-Bouillon. j£ cup olive oil }£ cup minced young onions. 3 cloves (quarters) of garlic 1 teaspoon thyme—green or^Jried but on powdered. % cup flour. }£ cup tomatoes. 4 cups soup stock. Salt and pepper Take a flat-bottom saucepan, put in the oil, onions, garlic, thyme, and let them cook over the fire a few minutes with constant stirring, put in the flour and stir that about until the mixture (which is a seasoned roux) begins to brown. Add the soup stock (or broth or water) and let boil u p, and then the tomatoes. Season_ with salt and pepper. Skim off the oil while it is boiling. Cut fish in slices and cook it in the sauce. Serve fish and sauce together with toast either under the slice of fish or as a garnish at the edge. Rice is also served with this dish the same as with a curry, by way 0/ variety. 788—Fricandeau of Veal, ■alienne. It is a piece of veal larded, cooked and glazed in its own gravy. Take any lean piece such as the shoulder with the bone I removed, or part of the flank, or the leg J and lard it full of strips of fat salt pork the same as for beef a la mode or larded and braised tongue. Cut the pork close to the skin and it will be found better to lard with than bacon, which is too strong- ly flavored. The larding finished, put the scraps of pork in a baking pan of small size and depth, also some pieces of turnip, carrot and onion, sweet herbs if at hand, such as thyme and parsley; put in the veal, thin a little broth and wine, cover with a buttered paper and bake in a moderate oven about an hour, basting occasionally. Take up the meat when done in anoth- er pan, strain the remaining liquor, skim it, glaze the meat by pouring it oyer and letting dry in the not closet. Slice the meat so that the lardings will show and serve small cuts with Italian sauce in the dish and two or three olives for garnish. 789—Italian Sauce. Brown. 1 cup brown sauce (roast meat gravy skimmed, strained and thickened.) r teaspoon minced onion. 2 of minced mushrooms. Same of parsley. Juice of 1 lemon. Cayenne and salt. Pour half the juice from a can of mush- rooms into the brown sauce, add the other ingredients and boil for 15 minutes. A better appeaance can be secured if time allows when serving to retain the parsley SAN IRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 96 which loses color in the sauce and add it in each dish. Ii Spanish sauce be at hand V can be used in place of meat gravy. 790— Small Pa ties a la Toulouse Puff paste shells filled with a ragout of brains, chicken and mushrooms. Boil the brains taken from the calf s head used for soup, cut when cold into large dice, cut white meat of chicken the same way and slice a proportion of mush- rooms . It does not take much to fill pat- ties, perhaps half cupful of each will be sufficient. Make white sauce, season well, put in the meats and keep hot to fill the patties with as wanted. Toulouse is a part of France where the most mush- rooms were found before they were grown artificially. 791—String Beans in bspagnole. Boil the beans andpour over them rich meat gravy or brown sauce No. 576. 792—Boiled Cinnamon Pudding. The English suet pudding No. 732, with a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon added has a pink color and forms another va- riation among the kinds which can be made with suet, saving butter and eggs. Dinner. July 29 Soup—Consomme imperial! <8 qts 56 cents.) Red snapper a l'lndienne (3 lbs and sauce 48 cents.) Riceau gratin (with the fish instead of potatoes.) Boiled ham with greens (8 orders 1 lb and greens 18 cents.) Roast beef (sirloin 5 lbs 65 cents.) Shoulder of veal stuffed (4 lbs in all 50 cents.) Calf's head, turtle style (^ head and feet 40 with sauce 55 cents.) Scallops of mutton a la Provencale (8 orders 1 lb net and sauce 18 cents.) Baked beans and pork (1 lb beans 4 oz pork 2 qts 10 cents.) Summer beets 9, cabbage 5, green peas 15, corn 15, potatoes 2 ways 12, (58 cents.) CiacKed wheat pudding with maple sy- rup (No. 392; with sauce 24 cents.) Apple cream pie (4 pies 33 cents.) Lemon ice cream (starch and milk, no eggs, 3 qts and freezing 40 cents.) Cake assorted kinds (2 lbs 20 cents.) Nuts, raisins, crackers, cheese, pickles, (average 49 cents.) Milk, cream, butter, bread, coffee, tea, sugar, $1 00. Total, $6.44; 49 persons; fraction-over 13 cents a plate. 793—Consomme Imperial. Almost the same as royal, No. 139. The egg custards can be cut with a round cutter instead of in diamonds, and add a half pint of Madeira or sherry. A lib- eral allowance of extract of meat should be used when desired to make this con- somme of good quality in places where there is no poultry to be had, and the ex- tract makes it unnecessary to use color- ing,as it imparts a very rich color itself. 794- Red Snapper a l'lndienne, or with Curry Sauce. Fish baked in curry sauce with a bor- der of rice baked with it in the same dish. Any dish that is said to be a l'lndienne may be expected to contain curry pow- der or curry paste. Brush a baking pan or dish with but- ter, skin 3 lbs of fish and cut it into suit- able pieces to serve. About half the peo- ple will not take fish and this amount will make from 24 to 30 portions. Place them in the dish in close order. Take some cooked rice, season it with salt and milk and 1 egg or the yolk only and make a raised border of it all around the edge of the baking dish. Use a wet knife, to smooth it over. Set the dish in the oven for 15 minutes for the fish to be- come partly cooked then pour in enough curry sauce to almost cover, and bake again until the surface of both fish and rice border is brown. Serve a portion of rice with each order and the curry sauce belonging. 97 COOKING FOR PROFIT. 795—Curry Sance Mince an onion extremely fine, put it in a small saucepan with butter and stir over the fire until it is cooked without browning; put in three times as much grated cocoanut as there was onion (dry cocoanut will do but not sweet) and a heaped teaspoonful of curry powder. When these are hot add a pint of light brown sauce (No 576) or Spanish sauce or fresh made gravy from the meat pans. Skim off the fat, add a pinch of cayenne and pour it over the fish or chicken or whatever is to. be baked in the above re- ceipt. 796— Call's Head, a la Tortue, or Turtle Style. in CalPs head previously cooked, cut in pieces in a brown sauce containing olves, mushrooms, wine quenelles or egg balls and mushroom liquor. Cut the half head and the boneless feet reserved from the mock turtle soup, making into pieces of even size and put them in a saucepan of Spanish sauce (No 784) or good bright pan gravy with a seasoning of tomato, add a small portion of each of the ingre- dients above named, and make hoi. The olives should have the stones taken out by means of a small corer out of the col- umn box, or by running a penknife around. It is a great improvement to the appearance to add egg-balls as a gar- niture. Tortue is French for turtle. 797—Eqg Quenelles for Turtle Sauce and Soup. 2 hard boiled yolks. V2 as much hot boiled potato. 1 teaspoon chopped parsley. Cayenne and salt. 1 raw yolk. Mash all together. Make up in balls size of cherries, with flour on the hands. Poach them a minute or two In a frying- pan of boiling water. Take up on a skim- mer and drop them into the soup. 798—Forcemeat Balls or Quenelles. cold veal. y2 the weight of fine bread crumbs. 3 or 3 tablespoons melted butter. Seasoning of sweet herbs, and nutmeg. Pepper and salt. 1 raw egg. Mince the meat small, add the other ingredients, and pound them all togeth- er. Make up in little balls, with flour on the hands. Poach them in boiling water and put them in the soup. The above two mixtures can be used as croquettes, made into shapes, and fried and are good to place as ornamental acessories in the sauces to fish and meats. y2 a calf s tongue, cooked, or some 799—Scallops of Mutton, Provencale or Creole A scallop of meat is a thin slice or steak, as is the Scotch collop and the French escalope. Anything a la Provencale in French rookery is the same as a la Creole in American,it implies tomatoes, onions, cayennef oil, wine and sometimes garlic. For this dish cut small slices of mutton, saute them first in a frying pan, light brown, then simmer in water, stock or sauce until they are tender and add suf- ficient strained tomatoes to serve as a sauce. Season the meat and sauce while stewing with onion, salt and pepper, A leaf shape of fried bread is a good orn- ament to the dish. 800—Apple Cream Pie 2 cups stewed apple—a pint. i cup sugar—% pound. 1 cup milk. Y? cup butter—j^ pound 4 eggs (or 8 yolks if any left over) y-z cup sherry or nutmeg or lemon flavoring. Have the apples dry by cooking with scarcely any water but the steam shut in, mix apples, sugar and butter together and milk and eggs together, stir up all and flavor. Make 5 cupfuls, enough for 4 pies large family size to cut in 6 or 8, like a custard with no top crust._ Cost, with wine 31 cents, without wine 25; crust for 4 pies 8 cents. SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S Dinner. July 30. Soup—Potage a 1' Andalouse (8qts. 48 cents.) Sliced cucumbers and tomatoes (12 cts.) Broiled whitefish, Venitienne (4 lbs and sauce 52 cents.) Potatoes dauphine. Boiled corned tongue (28 cents) Roast beef (1 rib 2y lbs net 32 cents) Spring lamb, mint sauce, (6 lbs and sauce 7s cents.) Veal stew a la Milanaise (1% lbs and trimmings 23 cents.) Rissoles of sweetbreads with truffles (28 orders 60 cents.) Beets in sauce io,rice 5, green peas 15, string beans 4, corn 15, tomatoes 8. pota- toes 12, (60 cents.) Steamed currant roll (No. 800; 2 lbs with sauce 18 cents.) Pumpkin pie (No. 810; without eggs, 3 large, 20 cents.) Rasberry tarts (24 tarts 30 cents.) Delmonico ice cream (No 201: -i qts 80 cents.) Chocolate and rose kisses (No 461: 20 cents.) Cake, assorted kinds (15 cents.) Milk, cream, butter, bread, cheese, pickles, coffee, tea, sugar and crackers Total,: , $6.97; 49 persons; fraction over 14 cents a plate. The dinner above prepared for 49 per- sons was partaken of by only 32, the rest being away across the lake. Much pro- vision was left over to be taken care of as best it may, some for supper and breakfast, some forthe next day's dinner. 801-Potage a I'Andalouse. Andalusian or Spanish soup. Make same as directed for Spanish sauce with twice as much tomatoes. It is a brown tomato soup with a light flavor of garlic. Serve a few croutons in the plates. 802-Broi!ed Whitefish, Venetian Sauce. Split the fish and cut in small pieces. Broil in the oyster broiler only a few minutes before it is wanted. Serve Vene- tian sauce and dauphine potatoes in the same plate with the fish. £03—Venetiai Sausefor Fish Make drawn butter (butter sauce) a lit- tle thinner than usual for that sauce, with a liberal amount of the best butter beaten in. Add the juice of half a lemon, some minced parsley and minced capers. A cupful of sauce is enough and the expense is small for just sufficient to fill the bill. 804 — Potat.es a I. Dauphine. They are potato croquettes of a flat- tened shape. Take 4 or 5 potatoes out of the steam- er and mash them with the yolk of 1 egg, salt and a grating of nutmeg. If very dry a small lump of butter may be added. Make them out in flattened pats, very much like figs as they are pressedin boxes, dip in egg and cracker meal and fry to a fine yellow color in hot lard. Serve with fish or with meat entrees. Potatoes in this form are fine as ornaments but most tedious of any to prepare, requiring three or four separate operations. 805-Veal Stew. Milanaise Stew pieces of veal the same as for pot- Eie: also, boil 4 ounces of macaroni roken in short lengths and when done drain dry and season it. Dish up maca- roni in the individual dish with stewed veal placed upon it. Milanaise means m Italian style, or of the city of Milan in Italy. 806—Rissoles of Sweetb.eads with Truffles. Sweetbreads cut small in very stiff sauce rolled up in pie-paste and fried. Boil and then cut small 4. or 5 sweet- breads. Take % cup of minced onion and the same of mushrooms and % cup butter and stir them over the fire, then put in y2 cup sifted flour and when that is heated through, add a cup of broth or mushroom liquor from the can gradually, stirring it up to a very thick sauce. Sea- SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 100 and freezing 50 cents.) Cake, assorted kinds (ao cents.) Milk, buttermilk, cream (47 cents.j Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, pickles, coffee, tea, butter, bread,(7S cents) Total, $5.44; 48 persons; uj£ cents a plate. The dinner above prepared for 48 was partaken of by only 37, the others being out on excursions, There will be some waste and things available— such as cold meats—for succeeding meals, and pastry- cake and ice cream disappear by myster- ious means after meals and at night. 813—Consomme Milanaise. Clear consomme with short cut maca- roni or spaghetti or fidelini in it and red corned or smoked tongue cut in shreds size of Julienne vegetables. Cook the macaroni or spaghetti separately, wash off in cold water and place ready to drop a spoonful in each plate—precaution to avoid spoiling the clearness of the con- somme. The shred tongue makes no difference. (No. 819) pour over the fish and bake on the bottom of the oven about half an hour. Serve potatoes, a fillet of fish and some of the sauce in the same plate. 815—Yorkshire Pudding with Rnast Meats. 814—Fillets of Trout,a la Morny A rich egg-batter pudding; can also be served witn sweet sauce. i]4 cups flour—6 ounces. 3 cups milk—1% pints. 1 ounce butter, melted. 3 eggs. Salt. }4 teaspoon baking powder. Mix the flour and milk carefully not to have it full of lumps, add the melted butter, salt, pinch of powder, the eggs well beaten and beat up thoroughly. Butter a small baking pan and make it warm in the oven, pour the batter in only ibout y2 inch deep and bake 15 or 20 minutes. Water instead of milk can be used, but then a tablespoon of syrup should be ad- ded to cause it to brown quickly without drying out. Cut squares and serve with roast beef and gravy. 816—Lamb Slew, a la Jardiniere. Small fillets doubled up in order in a dish, a raised border of potato around and all baked brown, with sauce. Morny is the title of a French duke. A large platter such as is used to dish up a whole turkey for a family dinner, should be devoted to the purpose of cooking fish in this way, which is like the rice-bor- dered dish No. 794, and if it can be a metal chafing-dish of the same shape it, will be the better. If no dish can be had a shallow baking pan can be made to an- swer tolerably well, but it does not hold the border above the fish gravy. Cut as many thin slices lengthwise of the fish as there will be orders, which may be about two thirds the number of people, place them, doubled, close to- gether till the dish is full. Mash potatoes with egg-yolk salt and nutmeg same as for croquettes and make a borderall a- round and brush with egg. Mince a small onion, twice as much mushrooms, strew them amongst the fillets. Add half cup white wine to a pint or white sauce Jardiniere is French for gardener; the made jardiniere always implies the use of a mixed lot of vegetables. There are jardiniere cutters to be bought which cut vegetables in various fancy shapes effect- ing a great saving of time. Chop up the breasts and neck of lamb or mutton, stew until tender, let boil nearly dry, skim, season and thicken the liquor that remains. Cut carrots, white and yellow turnips, Kohl-rabi or cabbage- turnips, leeks, onions and string beans, all or any of them, into dice or like peas with a scoop cutter, and boil until done, drain off and pour some Spanish sauce or light brown sauce to them. Serve the vegetables as a border in the dish with stewed lamb in the center. 817 -Gre: n Corn Fritters. 1 heaped cup corn. 14 cup butter. 1£ cup flour. COOKING FOR PROFIT. i cup milk or water. i egg. Salt and pepper. Batter to fry in. The com may be either from a can of the dry solid packed sort or else green com shaved off the cob. Make white roux first by stirring the butter and flour over the fire, add milk to make stiff sauce, stir in the com, season, and then put the mixture which is a stiff paste an inch deep in the pan to get cold. Cut pieces two inches long, dip in thin batter (same as if made for pancakes) and fry light colored in hot lard. Have a cupful of cream sauce ready and serve a spoonful under each fritter. Another and easier way may be found by refer- ence to the index. 818—Cabbage au Veloute. Means cabbage in white sauce, as en Espagnole means brown sauce. Chop the cabbage, season it, serve a spoonful to a dish with sauce veloute poured over it. 819—Sauce Veloute. Is white sauce but not cream sauce which latter is called Bechamel. The word veloute means velvety or smooth. To make the sauce take some chicken or veal broth boiled down strong enough to be jelly when cold, but, without cooling it strain through a napkin and use it to make butter sauce thinner than is usually made; and after that let it slowly boil and the butter (that the roux was made with) will rise to the top. Skim it off and you have a bright veloute that is not greasy and can be used as a stock sauce for white dishes and for fish. This is one of the main stock sauces in systematic cookery but in point of fact is not so necessary as brown sauce and therefore is not made in every place. 820—West Point Pudding. Brown cracked wheat pudding with molasses and raisins. 4 heaped cups cracked wheat mush. J/£ cup molasses. i cup minced suet—4 ounces, 2 or 3 eggs, 3 cups milk. 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon. r cup raisins or currants. Take cracked wheat mush that was left over from breakfast and is well-cooked and dry, mix in the other ingredients, eggs last and well beaten, and hake in a slack oven an hour. Maple syrup is good sauce for it, but hard sauce (No 177) is the favorite. Dinner. August 1. Soup—Crouterau-pot (8 qts. 40 cents.) Tomatoes, cucumbers, (12 cents.) Boiled whitefish, parsley sauce (3 lbs. and sauce 34 cents.) New potatoes browned. Tongue, corned beef, hara (nominal, 3 orders, rest left over.) Roast beef (2 ribs cut short, 3 lbs. 36 cents.) Spring lamb (6 pounds and sauce 75 cents.) Sweetbreads, au beurre noir (18 orders, sweetbreads 5o,butter io, olives, lemon n; 71 cents.) Ragout of veal, a la Julienne (7 orders 16 cents.) Green peas 15, beets 4, cabbage 10, succotash 15, rice 5, potatoes 12 (60 cts.) Boiled lemon pudding (No. 827; 3 lbs. with sauce 27 cents.) Ripe gooseberry pie (3 pies 27 cents.) Tea, ice cream (2 qts. and freezing 60 cents.) Chocolate eclairs (No. 296; 24 small 38 cents.) Cake, ripe fruit, cheese, crackers, (21 cents.l Milk, buttermilk, cream (40 cents.) Butter, bread, coffee, tea (38 cents.) Total $ 5 .gs; 46 persons, 13 cents a plate. The dinner above prepared for 46, pari taken by only 37; the others away on summer rambles. 821—Croute-au-Pot Soup. Crust-pot or crust soup; a good soup of mixed vegetables and small toast. Make the vegetable soup No. 140 and SAN ERANCTSCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 102 add tomatoes, or the tomato soup No. 166, and add more vegetables. Cut some slices of bread extremely thin and then in small pieces and toast them in the oven. Drop a few in each plate when serving. 822— Boiled Whitefish, Parsley Sauce. Set on the poissoniere or fish-kettle half-full of water, put in an onion stuck with cloves, a bay leaf, salt, a handful of parsley and half cup vinegar. When it boils put in the fisn on the moveable drainer bottom and boil gently about half an hour. Slide off the drainer onto a dish. Serve by cutting portions with a broad fish slice. Parsley sauce and new potatoes in the same plate. 823— Parsley Sauce. Make good butter sauce (No. S73)and add to it a cupful of chopped parsley while at boiling heat. 824—Sweetbreads au Beurre Noir Some epicures, apparently have discov- ered an agreeable new zest in butter browned by frying, for it has been em- ployed as a flavoring in sweets as well as in meat sauces. The English call it nut brown butter. Prepare the sweetbreads by boiling and pressing and when cold slice thinly, season and dip both sides in flour and nave them ready in a pan. Shortly before dinner make a cupful of butter hot in a frying pan. While it is frothy and beginning to brown lay in the floured sweetbreads and give them time to get brown on both sides. Serve when done with a little of the butter upon them, two or three olives and quarter of lemon in the dish. 825—Ragout of Veal, Julienne. A ragout is a mixture of meats and ther edibles cut small in a sauce. Elab- orate mixtures of this sort are some- oimes served like* sauce to larger meats, and again, are served in this way. Cut a piece of veal into large dice and a kid- ney and slice or two of salt pork into pieces only half as large. Stir them over the fire in a saucepan with a spoonful of fat or oil until they are slightly browned, then drain off all the fat throw in a few sliced mushrooms, a sprinkling of onion and garlic and pour in enough Spanish sauce to cover, or, if no sauce ready use light brown gravy. For the border cut Julienne vegetables as if for soup, boil them, drain, mix in a white sauce (some of the same made for the fish) and put a spoonful in each dish, making a hollow with the spoon and the ragout in the middle. A Saratoga potato slicer is a help in cutting Julienne, which is rather a ted- ions operation without. The thin slices can be laid together and shreded finely. 826—Succotash. Com and beans mixed together is called succotash; butter beans is the kind preferred but all sorts of green gar- den Deans are used. Season as corn alone would be seasoned, with a little sauce made of milk, butter and salt, or, with salt alone. 827—Boiled Lemon Pudding. A lemon suet pudding; pale yellow, rich. 2 cups flour—y2 pound. 2 cups minced suet—^pound. 2 solid cups minced Dread—^poun^. ^ cup sugar 2 lemons. 2 eggs. 2 cups milk—a pint. ^ teaspoon soda. Same of salt. Make the bread crumbs fine by grating or mincing. Grate the lemon nnds into it, put soda in flour, mix dry articles to- gether, wet with the eggs and milk and stir up thoroughly. Tie up in pudding bag or moulu and boil 2 hours. Cost of pudding 21 cents for 3 pounds or two quarts. 828- Tea Ice Cream. Can only be made with pure sweet, cream as it is not good with custard or SAN FRANC/SCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 104 dice and put them in a buttered pan into about half the amount of raw eggs, or 5 eggs to a pound of sweetbreads. Grate in a little nutmeg, add salt and pepper and keep covered until time to cook. Mash some green peas—the greener the better, but those left over from the pre- vious day are as good as if newly cooked —and rub them through a strainer adding a little hot broth or white sauce to help pass the puree; season and set it to get warm. Stir the sweetbreads and eggs over the fire until soft cooked. Place a spoonful of the green puree in the small dish in the manner of a border and the scram- bled sweetbreads in the middle. 833—Pineapile Fritters and Sauce 835—Vanilla Jelly. Open a cans pineapple, save the juice cut the larger slices in two. For the batter: 2 cups flour. 1 small teaspoon baking powder. 2 eggs. 1 cup milk or water. 1 tablespoon oil or melted lard. Pinch of salt. Put all at once into a small pail or deep pan and beat up with a spoon. Put in the pineapple slices, take up well coated with batter and drop into a kettle of hot lard. Fry light-colored. Drain well and break off the rough edges. Servewith thick sauce in the dish. To have fritters of good shape the batter should be made thin. Too much lightness makes them absorb grease. To have them of very light color use water instead of milk in the batter—but some people must have them well browned, which calls for milk or a spoonful of syrup mixed in. 834- -Pineapple Sauce. Half pineapple juice and half water, a cup of sugar to 2 cups of it, and a table- spoon of starch. Boil and color pink with raspberry or other fruit juice. It should be thick enough to coat over a fritter and glaze it, and when so used the articles are put on the bill ot fare as "pine- apple fritters glace." Sweet jelly of gelatine (No 465) made with a little lemon juice to help in the clarifying but without lemon pee land a flavoring of vanilla instead. Color like golden syrup with few drops burnt sugar caramel. (See No 694.) August 3. We have a new boarder this morning but his meals wili not count at present. Early breakfast ordered for a doctor who is going away. I hope no sickness has broken out at our resort. My "sec" has an unusual amount of business to talk over, with the other girls and has let the Lyonaise potatoes bum up. At seven o'clock a little three-year-old comes running over the croquette ground to tell me that the doctor has brought her a new brother and I ask her what she'll take, but she says ma won't let her eat anything before breakfast time. There the nurse comes to borrow my scales without saying what for. When she brings them back she says "just twelve pounds and only half-a- pound to take off for the wraps." Now, that must be pretty good weight for the newspaper paragraphs generally quote them at ten pounds. You see, MrsTingee, the effects of good cooking and good feeding—everything is sleek and fat around here. Only 37 is the house-count to-day though it went up with the thermometer and touched 49 during the week, and I expect everyone will be on time to dinner as no person in this house excursionize on Sunday. If there was not something to expect from the advertising that is out it would look as though the past week was the culmination of our season's business and small affair it would be. But the advertising is bound to work a change; it has torn up all our peace and quietness already in one way and made great trouble with the meals, getting them or- dered an hour earlier or an hour later or divided in two or three or turned into half meal and half picnic lunch and making dinner small ana disappointing by the ab- sence of guests,and supper large and vex- atious through their unwonted promptness and inexpressible appetites. For this Jos COOKING FOR PROFIT. small but romantic Uintah Lake in the State of Cornucopia is a most interesting locality when its merits are once known. There is no end to the places and objects to be seen if some knowing person will clearly point them out. The Barnacles family will talk about these things well enough if somebody else starts the sub- ject but are the last people to ever think of making any matter of local interest known; and you might as well look at any old and unremarkable building in any old and unremarkable town as to look at the most historic pile in Europe or elsewhere if you have not a guide book or other informant to awaken your imagination and interest by showing wherefore the historic pile is forever famous. So that is about the way that our little company got stirred up to an extent that they cared little for their meals, or at least were willing to forego a dinner or two for the sake ot an exploration, after the pa- pers began to drop in, which contained descriptions of "The Eyrie" and the points of interest about Uintah Lake. Over there by the Barnacles point you may see in windy weather when all the rest of the lake is either yellow or green through shallowness, there is an expanse of water that remains blue almost to black- ness; it is the unfathomable place, the well, the bottomless source of the waters of the lake which has an outlet like a mill- race but no other inlet, and as soon as that was known there was an early break- fast, the sailboats were brought into requi- sition and all went, if only to drop peb- bles and look into the depihs andim- agine, but some went to heave thelead, and finding no bottom; went again next day, and others were led off to a sequest- ered bay that was covered with a magnif- icent species of water-lily. There is one remarkable hill on the lake shore called Crystal Cone; it is covered with pine and cedar and would not be ob- served without being pointed dut, yet all the houses in this neighborhood have, as curiosities, some specimens of the bril- liant rock crystals that are found there sometimes in large masses, and the Cone is full of diminutive wells that have been dug in search of them Among the ob- jects of sentimental interest the chief is the half-built and now decayed chateau which a certain singular and melancholy German baron began to build in the wilderness and surrounded it with a maze or labyrinth through which no intruder could find the wav unless by chance, part of which still remains; a tortuous thicket of thorny bushes, and near by is the remains of the log house he lived and died in alone. The Barn- acles family firmly believe the place haunted and never go to that side of the lake at night, but that of course is non- sense. Our people go in daytime to find some sort of a scarce flower that he planted here and there and as this is the season of its blossoming they sometimes bring home a few specimens and set in glasses on the breakfast, table. When we had a house count of dg, there were some disagreeable people who could not be expected to stay long any- where. One man and his wife made a specialty of deriding hotels and the enter- tainment and accommodations they of- fer. Said he had been trying his powers of endurance of all evils at the Hotel- de Villa-Franca at Cabbageadia, and made much sport of it. He did not seem" to find fault with anything here and yet he made people feel uncomfortable and many were glad when he and his wife went away at the end of two days. Three or four of the young people besides went awa" Saturday evening, as this place is intolerably dull on Sundays. Ah, but here is worse sorrow; The house and the guests are to lose the Col- onel and the banker's wife and daughter to morrow morning. They have Deen the right sort of guests, evidently, for they seemed always in the lead for pleasure. Btu they have been reading the adver- tisements of other resorts very closely in their resting spells when the papers lie on the piazzas and in the reading room, and they have found a place that seems to suit their case better. So to morrow they go to the Rosedale house at Purple Lake (it is in the Cashmere Vale, and the nightingales sing round it all the day long —so the advertisements say) but they promise the company to come back again before the season ends. That is early breakfast Monday morn- ing for the friends who will go to see them off, and at night comes off another birthday supper—this time it is for the lady hostess and must be fine. I have a 13-pound rich fruit cake made some days ago to be old enough to cut to morrow, SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S io6 for fruit cakes of the richest sorts are not good until a week after baking. 836—Rich Fruit Cake or Black Cake. This is the kind of cake or rather, one of the kinds that can be kept for years without detriment to the cake. Some caterers have had it mentioned among their specialties as "grooms cake, 3 years old" Prepare the fruit first: 2^ pounds raisins—6 heaped cups, a$£ pounds currants—same. \y2 pounds citron shred fine—4 cups. 2 heaping tablespoons mixed ground spices—cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and mace. 1 small cup strong black-coffee. 1 Sail cup dark molasses. Same of brandy. A small addition of almonds, nut&or cut figs can be mixed in if wished, and a spoonful of lemon extract. Then mix the cake batter: - 14 ounces sugar—2 cups. 14 ounces butter—same if pressed. ro eggs. 18 ounces flour—4 large cups. Mix up same as pound cake, the sugar and butter together first, then eggs 2 at a time, then flour. After the flour, put in the 2 ounces spices, coffee, molasses, brandy and lemon extract. The batter is quite thin, but no matter. Mix flour in the fruit to dust it well, then stir up all together. Take a mould that holds at least 6 qts. or two moulds of 4 quarts each, line them with greased paper, put in the cake and wrap other papers around the outside and tie on to guard the cake against too much heat in baking. Bake from 2 to 3 hours. The raisins ought to be stoned or, if there is nobody to do that, cut them in two, but not mince them small, as that spoils the appearance of the cake. Cost of large fruit cake, about 15 cents a pound. Note. The above has been proven a valuable receipt about Christmas and par- tv times but as it makes a cake so nearly all fruit it will bear a little thinning down with more cake batter for most occasions. I make twice the amount of pound-cake mixture, use a little of it as pound or jelly cake and put the specified amount of fruits in what remains or mix them with- out taking any out; it is a rich cake still, only of diffierent degrees; and if they are temperance people and will not buy brandy put in another spoonful of spices and the cake will be just as good as if the brandy was put in and baked out of it. Cost as above with prices as quoted at this place, 14 pounds including one coat thick icing $1.85. Dinner. August 3. Soup-Consomme, chatelaine (6 qts. 40 cents.) Tomatoes and cucumbers (on table 10 cents.) Flounder a l'ltalienne (4 lbs. gross and sauce 45 cents). Potato croquettes. Boiled ham and tongue (nominal, left for cold). Roast beef, (1 rib 3 lbs 39 cents.) Braised brisket of veal, mareschale (3 lbs. 36 cents). Lamb cutlets, a la Nelson (14 orders, 2 lbs. and trimmings, 48 cents). Rissolettes, a la Marseillaise, (12 orders 26 cents). Baked tomatoes 15, onions in cream 10, rice 4, beans 4, cabbage 8, potatoes 16, (57 cents). Queen pudding with cream, (No. 845; 3 qts. or 4% lbs. 35 cents). Blackberry pie (2 pies large, 20 cents). Bisque of pineapple ice cream(No. 206; 2 qtsi and freezing 65 cents.) Cakes assorted (15 cents). Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, condi- ments,(37 cents). Milk, buttermilk, cream, (46 cents). Butter, bread, coffee, tea, sugar, 38 cents. Total $5,57, 37 persons; 15 cents a plate. 837—Consomme Chatelaine Like consomme royal with minced shalots and mushrooms in the custards. Make and clarify the consomme as at No. 139; there ought to be a fowl roasted brown and then boiled in it, otherwise add extract of meat for richness and color. Mince an equal quantity of butto SAN JRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S io3 thin, cut out with a biscuit cutter, make little turnovers or other shapes such as long rolls with a spoonful of the fish mix- ture inside and the edges of the paste wetted with egg to make them adhere. Drop the rissolettes into the same kettle of hot lard the potato croquettes are to be fried in. Take out while still light- colored and place on paper in a hot pan to absorb every particle of grease. Serve one or two to each dish with a green bor- der of fried parsley or a green puree, or chopped yolk of egg for ornament. Mar- seilles is a seaport and great place for fish dinners—hence the names. Use a large pan that the pudding m ay be shallow and cut out the better for it. 844—Baked Tomatoes. If not intelligently managed, baked to- matoes are sure to be a failure through all dissolving into liquid. Without peel- ing, cut off a slice of the top and scoop out the inside with a teaspoon into a strainer that will let the surplus juice flow away. Chop the pulp, add bread crumbs on top and bake in a buttered pan. 845—Queen Pudding. This is known by half a dozen different names—it looks well and is a favorite kind. It is a bread custard with jelly spread over the top after baking and meringue (frosting) upon that like a lemon pie, i pressed-in quart bread crumbs—4 cups. 4 cups milk. % cup butter, melted. j£ cup sugar. 4 yolks eggs. j cup fruit jelly. 4 whites and j£ cup sugar for the frost- ing. Have the bread very finely minced, mix the first five ingredients together and bake until the bread custard thus made is set in the middle. Spread the jelly over the top and set in the oven again. Whip the whites firm enough to bear up an egg, add the sugar, spread it on top of the hot jelly and finish baking with the oven door partly open as too much heat spoils the meringue. Costs about 35 cents,but is enough for thirty people. Dinner. August 4. Soup—Potage a la Reine (5 qts 40 cents.) Fillets of trout, a la Chambord (4 lbs, with forcemeat etc. 70 cents.) Potatoes, Monaco. Boiled ham with spinach (3 orders ham, 9 spinach 13 cents.) Roast beef (1 rib, 2 lbs net 28 cents.) Mutton a la Bretonne (No 849 shoulder 2 lbs and beans 30 cents.) Chicken pie (5 chickens $ 1.00, with crust etc, $1.20.) Green peas 15, mashed turnips 5 rice 5, potatoes 15 (40 cents.) Birdsnest pudding with cream (No 851; about 28 cents.) Lemon pie (No 852; 3 medium size 30 cents. Vanilla ice cream (2 qts pure, and freezing 65 cents.) Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, pickles, (35 cents.) Cake assorted kinds (1 lb 10 cents.) Milk, buttermilk, cream (45 cents.) Butter, bread, coffee, tea, sugar (43 cents.) Total $5-97J 35 persons; 17 cents a plate. 846—Potage a la Reine. Reine is the French word for queen, -this would therefore be in English "Queen's Soup." It is a puree soup like the potato cream and puree of beans, but thickened, in- stead, with the paste-or puree of pounded chicken and rice. Take: 3 quarts chicken broth. 4 solid cups chicken meat. 1 heaped cup boiled rice. 1 quart cream or good milk. Procure 4 cupfuls of clear chicken meat tender enough to mash to a paste, either from two or three young chickens roasted, or 1 large fowl boiled. Mince it fine, pound it smooth, add the rice while pounding, pour in some of the broth to, moisten it, then rub it through a perfor- tog COOKING FOR PROFIT. ated tin gravy strainer or a sieve. The chicken (or veal) broth should have a small bunch of parsley, i stalk of cel- ery, a small piece ot onion and piece of broken nutmeg boiled in it, and if ob- tainable a sprig of green thyme, and af- ter that be strained. Mix it boiling hot with the puree of chicken and rice; set on bricks or at the back of the stove to keep hot without boiling, and boil the cream separately and pour it in at last. Serve with soufflee crouton, No. 736. Another way is to make a cream of rice with chicken meat in it cut small, and no croutons. 847 -Fillets of Redfish a la Chambord Individual. Thin fillets spread with a paste or force- meat containing lobster, rolled up and baked and served with a lobster sauce. Chambon is the name of a part of France on the sea coast and also a count's title. The redfish is from the Florida coast where it is also called red grouper. Slice the fish lengthwise into fillets thin and broad like fillets of sole and as small as possible, pound a quarter can of lob- ster to a paste, add as much panada (soaked and squeezed bread) season it, add a raw yolk. Spread the fillets with the mixture thinly, roll them up, and lay in a pan and bake with butter and water just enough to keep them moist, and baste twice. They will cook in about 30 minutes. Pound the reddest pieces of lobster meat and rub it through a sieve, mix it with a little good butter sauce; slice in 3 or 4 mushrooms and as many shrimps, if at hand, or a few pieces of lobster cut in dke and season with pepper and lemon juice. Serve a fillet to each plate pikh sauce and some special form of potato in the same. 848—Potatoes a la Monac*. Cut cores out of raw potatoes with an apple corer or column cutter, and slice them into thick lozenge shapes like gun- wads. Boil first, then fry in a kettle of lard. Before serving, shake them about in a pan with a lump of butter, dredge with salt and fine minced parsley. Serve with fish. Monaco is the name of a ger- man resort, a sort of Saratoga. 849—Mutton a la Bretoane. Mutton and beans. The French equivalent for our pork and beans. The frequency of the sign in the windows of French restaurants seems to indicate that it is in demand at least for a lunch dish. Take a shoulder of mutton and remove the bone by cutting close, laying out the meat like a thick steak. To season it mince one onion and crush a clove of garlic with the side of your knife and mix it in and stew over the meat, dredge thyme or sage, salt and pepper, roll up and tie and then braise the meat in a covered pan with broth or water at first, allowing it to dry down and brown like a roast at last. Boil two cups of white beans in the usual way while the mutton is braising. Take the mutton out of the saucepan and cook a little minced ham and onion in the gravy that remains, then put in the cooked beans and shake up. Serve beans in the dish with a cut of the roll of mutton on top. 850-Chicken Pie, American Style. When you make chicken pie cut down the quantities of all other meats and cut down the vegetables and leave out the third entree altogether that there may be afforded enough of this and without having to serve the roughest pieces of chicken . It is one of the favorite dishes alike in the largest hotels and the small - est and it is poor policy to make it a dis- appointment In either place. Let there be a surplus of the liquor the chicken is stewod in left over to pour into the pie as it dries down while dinner is going on, for the cry is " still they come''—no, not that but "plenty of gravy and more of the crusi." . A large chicken can be cut or chopped inco 18 pieces for stew or pie but such pieces are not able to make you any rep- utation. If the back bones and necks are left out to be used in soup or other ways it may take another chicken to make the pie large enough but after all you will not nave to work so hard to find a piece of the breast for the few fastidious people who can't eat anything else. SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S no Gut up five chickens making 6 choice cuts of each without counting the back or neck; allow about l/2 pound salt pork cut in stiips, a heaped tablespoon minced onion, same of salt, a teaspoon of white pepper, some chopped parsley, flour to thicken the liquor and about 3 pounds short pie crust. Boil the chickens in water enough to cover, time according to age; young chicken's less than % hour; old fowls 3 hours; with the seasoning of salt, pork and onions. Thicken the liquor, add parsley, dip the chicken into a baking pan dredge over with pepper and flour and cover with a thin pie crust. Bake % hour. Cut in squares. There should not be gravy enough in the pan to drown the crust before it can bake—the gravy can be poured in after- wards. Baking powder crust can be made good with care but seldom is, for it rises too thick and absorbs all the sauce. A short paste is better. 851—Birds Nest Pudding. An egg batter pudding with apples. Probably gets its name from its appear- ance when baked in round pan. 1 large cup flour—5 ounces. 3 cups milk—1% pints. 2 heaped tablespoons sugar. Butter size of an egg. 3 eggs. Little salt. Apples enough for a 4 quart pan. Sugar, butter and cinnamon or nut- meg for the apples. Pare and core the apples—enough to cover the pan bottom; fill core holes with sugar and some butter, water to barely wet the pan, cover with greased paper and bake until done and the syrup dried down. Mix the batter smoothly, as if for batter cakes, pour it over the apples and bake about y2 hour more. Pure cream sweetened is a good sauce, any other will answer if cream is not to be had. 852—Lemon Pie Meringued. Rule: One lemon and two eggs to each pie. 1 cup sugar. 2 cups water or milk. 2 lemons or 3 if small. % cup flour. 6 yolks of eggs. Put the sugar in a saucepan and grate lemon rinds into it, squeeze the juice, add the pint of water and boil. Mix the 2 ounces flour with water and thicken the boiling syrup. Take it off and pour it gradually to the beaten yolks. Fill three pies and bake. Whip the 6 whites, add 6 tablespoons sugar, spread over the pies while they are still hot in the oven and bake light-col- ored, A richer appearance may be given by dredging granulated sugar over the frosting before baking; it makes a crust. Too much baking will spoil the frosting, causing it to fall; also, be caretul to get about a tablespoon of sugar to each white of an egg. 853—Galantine en Bellevue A galantine (not gelatine as it often mistakenly appears in printed bills) is a boned fowl or bird of any sort; it is en bellevue when it is encased in jelly and ornamented. Galantines are made the same of either chickens or turkeys, ac- cording to the following directions. Singe and pick over a young turkey or pullet, and without otherwise opening it, cut the skin along the whole length ofthe back and with the point of a sharp knife go on cutting the meat from the bone on both sides until the hip joints and wings are reached. Chop through these with the heavy end of a carving knife and con- tinue cutting close to the breast bone un- til the frame is entirely removed without the skin being cut through. After that, bone the legs and wings half way and chop off the rest. The meat of the legs and wings is to be tucked into the body, which, when done up, will be a smooth cushion shape. Then wash the turkey in cold water and dry it on a cloth. Spread it out with the skin side down on the table and cover with the forcemeat; draw the two sides together, sew with twine, put it into a pudding cloth previonsly buttered and tie and pin it securely. Boil the turkey in salted broth or water containing the bones and any other trimmings left from the forcemeat besides, for from two to three hours, according to size. When the boned and stuffed turkey or thicken has been sufficiently boiled, press /// COOKING FOR PROFIT. it, still in the cloth, into a pan or mold, and there let it remain with a weight on top until cold. Into whatever shape it may be, there should be another vessel a size larger precisely like it, and the boned turkey orchicker., being taken out of the first mold, and the cloth taken off and the surface wiped clean with a napkin dipped in hot water, is then to be placed in the larger one; the space is then filled up with aspic jelly, poured in nearly cold, and when set, the mold being dipped a few moments in warm water, the galan- tine can be turned out onto Us dish and decorated. The way to get a coating of jelly all over the galantine is to stamp out star shapes from thick slices of white turnip or other material and lay them on the bottom of the larger mould. They hold up the galantine from the bottom for the jelly to run under, and show up as orna- ments. Decorate with blocks of colored jelly set around and upon it, and with orna- mental silver skewers, with lemons cut like baskets, and with flowers. Two fair-sized turkeys, prepared as above, either stuffed with forcemeat or with the meat of another turkey or chick- en, will slice into fifty plates. 854—Stuffing for Gilantines. Where boned turkey and chicken is served so frequently for lunch that it is no rarity, the easiest and quickest way of stuffing may perhaps be as good as the best: a boned tutkey then Decomes a fraud, if considered as turkey while it may be very good if regarded as sausage, for the most available material is a com- mon sausage meat to fill up the space formerly occupied by the frame of the fowl. Next to that and perhaps the oft- enest used is a mixture of selected lean veal and fat salt pork minced into a sort of veal sausage, well seasoned and served up in the turkey. That can be made by any person without special di- rections. Another and better way is to bone two turkeys or a turkey and chicken and put the two in one, being careful to have the inside chicken or small turkey quite young and tender. Seaon well without cutting or mincing, lay one on the other, place a few strips of fat pork about as thick as a pencil, lengthwise, and half a dozen hard-boiled yolks, gather up and sew in shape. When cooked, pressed and sliced this will be all turkey or chick- en and better liked than the sausage busi- ness. For something more elaborate for a little party supper or lunch the following may be relied upon to make a nice dish, worth ornamenting. 855—Forcemeat for Boned Turkey and Chicken The quantity of this receipt is sufficient for one medium-sized turkey that will slice into twenty-five individual dishes. For a large chicken the amounts may bo one-half. This makes about four pounds of choice meat, in addition to the turkey. 2 hens, boiled tender. 6 ounces fat salt pork—a cup. 6 ounces butter—a cup. 6 ounces white bread crumbs—2 cups. 2 raw eggs. 8 hard boiled eggs. i cup broth or water. i lemon. Nutmeg or thyme. Salt and pepper. Take the dark meat of the fowls, cut it in very small dice and keep it separate. Take off the white meat, chop fine and then pound to a soft paste. Throw in the fat pork minced, the seasonings and the bread crumbs and mix together, and soften the butter and stir in. Mix the two raw eggs with the cup of broth, add juice of lemon, and with this mixture moisten the forcemeat. It is now ready for use. Strew over the turkey about half the dark meat mince, and over that spread half the white forcemeat. Cut the yolks of the hard boiled eggs in quarters and scatter some over the layer of forcemeat, then the rest of the minced dark meat, the re- maining forcemeat and egg yolks. Do up the boned turkey thus filled as above directed. When sliced cold the above shows little dark squares set in a white meat, all spotted through with the yellow egg yolks. Cost of material; 2 fowls 50, pork $ SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 113 batter 8, eggs 13, bread, lemon and sea- sonings 4; 80 cents. 856— Cost of Galantine of Turkey or Chicken. Twenty cents a pound for material is the lowest that boned turkey and chick- en can be expected to cost, and if prices rule high the cost may be sometimes twice that sum. A 14 pound turkey (plucked but not drawn) may be dressed boned and then done up with 6 pounds of raw veal forcemeat or sausage meat inside and after cooking and pressing it will scarcely weigh 10 pounds altogether —a loss of over half; so that if the tur- key be bought at 1254 the galantine will cost 25 cents a pound at the lowest; and we find that our chicken galantine con- taining one-half the amount of force- meat, (No. 855) and a 3^ pound iowl bought at 10. cents a pound, making a total of 75 cents, weighs but $% pounds at last and has therefore cost over 21 cents a pound for material. The great- est shrinkage takes place in the boiling. Such is the calculation to be made when contracting for a party. On the other hand it is to be considered the galantine is subject to no further depreciation In our 3^ pounds are 56 ounces; about 2 ounces make as large a slice as anybody wants, being about 25 plates for 75 cents, or 3 or 4 cents a per-1 son. The aspic jelly makes a separate I calculation; it is not essential, but to be' charged to ornamentation . It is, how- ever cheaper by the pound than the meat and at a large party may be converted to profit by an expert carver. ornamental purposes. Eggs are turned blue and made to look as if bad by too long boiling; when they are fairlv hard- boiled put them immediately in cold wa* ter and there will be no discoloration. 859—Art in Mincing Parsley. Chop parsley very fine, inclose it in a clean towel and wring by twisting it until all the juice is expressed. The parsley is then a green dust which when scattered upon a dish will not fall all in one spot but will divide as easily as grains of col- ored sugar. For salad ornamentation dip round slices of lemon in the green parsley dust and border the dish. Birthday Party Supper. MENU. Galantine of Chicken en Bellevue. Pain de Foies-gras. Toasted Rusks. Sandwiches. Chicken Salad. Ornamented Fruit Cake. Charlotte Russe. Orange Cake. Meringues a la Gelee. Frozen Bisque of Preserved Ginger. Lemonade. Coffee. 857—Chicken Salad. The same as No. 150. Make up the form in a round salad bowl, place a heart lettuce on top, and quarters of eggs in close order around the base. 858 -Art in cutting Eggs. Hold the hard-boiled egg in a napkin in your hollowed hand while you cut it in quarters lengthwise, and avoid break- ing the yolks and spoiling the eggs for There were but 21 or 22 persons to be provided for so the difficulty in such a case is to provide a small enough quan- tity of each dish and yet make a table that is pleasing to look at, for they that come to the supper are not really hungry and only care to try whatever is new; at the same time you do not like to ask them to a Barmecide's feast of empty plates and nothing else. There is noth- ing for it but to utilize most of the sur- plus, such as cakes, for the next dinner table, make as little as possible of liver pate and chicken salad and submit to a little waste in other respects, knowing that the Ice cream and meringues will be sufficiently well patronized and the large fruit cake will be wanted to be sent away in presents to absent friends. Cost of material: Galantine—fowl 75, jelly 2 qts 55 (1-30) Pain de foies-gras 45, jelly 25 (70) Rusks (No. 277) and sandwiches, (25cents). Chicken salad, (No. 857), 770 cents). "J COOKING FOR PROFIT. for each quart mould. 865—Bavarian Cream—Substitute. This is, in effect,blanc-mange whipped up light while cooling, with the aid of white of eggs, so that when perfectly cold it can be sliced and shows the same spongy texture as fine bread It is good to fill charlottes when pure cream cannot be obtained, and good for dessert in place of ice cream. 4 cups good rich milk—a quart. i small cup sugar—6 ounces. i ounce gelatine—nearly a package of the shred kind, or 2 or % sheets. 3 whites of eggs. Vanilla flavoring. Set the milk over the fire with the sugar and gelatine in it and stir it until the gelatine is all dissolved. Better not let it quite boil because sometimes milk is curdled by the gelatineat boiling point: strain it into a pan set in ice water, and when nearly cold beat it up light. Whip the three whites quite firm, and stir in and continue the beating until the cream has become nearly solid, then pour it into moulds or into the charlotte-russe case, which may have been prepared previously. The flavoring extract can be added while beating. A little salt mixed in the ice water makes it colder and hastens the setting of the cream. Cost: milk 5, gelatine 1 oz 10, sugar 3, flavoring 4, whites 3; 25 cents for 2 quarts. 866-Maraschino Cream For filling charlotte-russe or serving instead of ice cream: 2 % pints thin cream. 1 teacup maraschino. 7 ounces sugar. i package of gelatine—1% ounces. Put the extia half pint of cream in a small saucepan, and the gelatine and sugar with it, set over the fire and beat with the wire egg whisk till the gelatine is all dissolved—the quicker the better. Four the maraschino into the cold cream, then strain in the contents of the sauce- pan, set the whole in a pan of ice water, and whip the cream mixture until it be- gins to set, when pour it into the pre- pared mould. Maraschino is a cordial that gives a pleasant flavor to creams and jellies. It is kept in all first-class bars. Comes in flasks bound in basket work. Is made by steeping the kernels of an Italian cherry in spirits of wine and then adding syrup. 667-0-ange Cake. White cake layers with orange icing (frosting). Make the best white cake, No. 622, and bake on jelly-cake pans. Grate the rinds of 2 or 3 oranges into 2 large cups powdered sugar. Take 3 whites of eggs in a bowl, put the flavored sugar in, and beat with a wooden paddle until you have a pale yellow icing firm enough not to iun off the cake. Spread some Detween the layers and the rest airer the top and sides. Dinner. August 5. Soup—consomme printanier royal (5 qts, 40 cents.} Tomato salad (on table, 15 cents.) Fillets of sheephead a la Horly (fish 2 lbs 24, batter frying, 20; 44 cents.) Potatoes Julienne, corned tongue and cabbage (25 cents.) Roast beef (1 rib, i]4 lbs 20 cents.) Loin of mutton dy2 lbs 18 cents.) Roulade of veal, Napolitaine (shoulder, 3 lbs 40 cents.) Cutlets of minced chicken (21 orders, equal to 1 fowl 55, with trimmings, frying 55 cents.) Poultry livers in potato croustades (fil- ling charged previous meals, 10 crous- tades, 15 cents.) Apricots, a la Colbert (30 orders, 1 can 25, nce? breading 26, sauce 4; 55 cents.) Turnips, beans, com, tomatoes, pota- toes (45 cents.) Preserved tomato tarts (8 saucer size, cut in three, 2 lbs tomatoes 20, crust 7; 27 cents.) Lemon frozen custard (3 qts frozen, 60 cents.) Cakes (charged other meals.) Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, pickles (35 cents.) Milk, buttermilk, cream (average ij£ cents each person, 44 cents.) SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S n6 Bread, butter, coffee, tea, sugar (40 cents.) Total $5 78; 35 persons, 16J4 cents a plate. 868— Consomme Printanier Royal It is consomme royal, No. 139, with a jardinier mixture of vegetables in it—or consomme jardiniere with custards in it, whichever way you may choose to regard it. Make the consomme good with roast chicken, plentv of beef, or meat extract; cut the vegetables as small as peas, with a jardinier cutter if you have one at hand, otherwise in very small dice, and have fresh green peas and asparagus points alio if in season. 869—Tomato Salad. Take small tomatoes not ripe enough to be soft, pare them with a very sharp knife without scalding. Cut in quarters, then in slices, put in a bowl with oil, vin- egar, pepper, salt; same as plain potato salad, shake up, serve with border of small lettuce leaves. 870—Fillets of Sheephead, a la Horly. Strips of fish fried in batter, served with Julienne potatoes and crisp fried onions. The sheephead is one of the best of the Southern sea fishes; in shape and quality it is very much like the black bass, and is generally reserved for boiling. It is so named for its projecting front teeth. To cook it a la Horly, cut it in strips size of a finger, salt well, pepper a little. Make a good frying batter with 2 eggs to a quart of flour, little melted butter or oil, and milk enough to make like thin batter-cake mixture. Dip the pieces of fish, drop in hot lard, fry slow enough to let get well done, but of light color. Slice 2 or 3 onions in rings, flour them and fry yellow and dry, also fry a few handfuls of Julienne potatoes. Serve a little of each at the side of the fillet in the same dish. There was a duke de Horly, prominent in the wars of the last century. 871—Roulade of Veal, a la Napolitaine. ing Italian style; it means with macaroni when it is not with Neapolitan or horse- radish sauce. Roll up a shoulder of veal after taking out the bone, and braise or roast it covered with buttered paper. Cook a dozen sticks of macaroni, cut short, put in light gravy or Spanish sauce and serve in the dish with a slice of veal on top. Napolitaine is the French spelling; Neapolitan is the English; it means ot the city of Naples in Italy. 872—Cutlets of Minced Chicken, Bor- delaise. Napolitaine is but another way of say- 2 solid cups chicken meat, or, equal to the meat of one fowl. 1 cup panada. ]/2 cup butter. 1 tablespoon minced onion. 2 tablespoons minced mushrooms. 2 eggs. Thyme, parsley, pepper, salt. Pick the chicken meat to pieces and mince it; there should be over a pound. Make panada by soaking white bread in cold water and squeezing dry. Put the butter in a frying-pan along with the on- ions and mushrooms, and stir over the fire a few minutes, then put in the panada and when hot add the eggs and after that the chicken and seasonings. Let get cold in a pan, then make up with floured hands, first in pear shapes, small size and flatten them to look like lamb chops. Get a piece of macaroni for each one and insert it to look like the bone. Dip in egg and cracker dust and fry in lard or oil. Serve with Borde- laise sauce in the dish and for ornament take a small crouton of fried bread, cut heart shaped, dip in tomato sauce, sprin- kle with parsley dust and set in the end of the dish. 873—Croustades of Chicken Livers. The livers of poultry and game being,r high-flavored should be set apart for spe- cial uses instead of being stewed promis- cuously with the chicken, or pot-pies to which they give a taste that may not be to the general liking. In some of the most elaborate ragouts of the French or-' der, these livers are used in equal parts -"7 COOKING FOR PROFIT. with truffles, mushrooms and wine as spe- cial flavorings. A simple brown stew of chicken livers in meat gravy makes a good dish served in cases made as directed in the next article. 874—Potato Shells or Croustarles. Make the same mashed potato prepa- ration as for croquettes with one or two yolks in it, take it on the pastry board with a little flour, make a long roll of it, cut off slices like common biscuits in size, dip them in egg and cracker dust twice over, giving them a double coating. Then take a small cutter and mark a lid in each one as you would in a puff-paste tartlet. Put them in the frying basket to fry, and only keep them in the hot lard a short time lest they burst out of shape. When of a good, yellow-brown color take up, lift out the lid with a teaspoon pqmt and scoop out the inside, making a crisp shell of potato to be filled with any kind of savory ragout or mince. After making the round shape once, oval and diamond and boat shapes can be made as well. It is work that consumes a good deal of time—not adapted for crowded houses. 875—Apricots a la Colbert Half an apricot or peach placed against a like amount of rice croquette mixture, egged and breaded in the form of a ball, and fried in a kettle of lard. When done, light-colored, rolled in sugar and served with sauce in the dish, made of the apricot syrup. Make rice croquette preparation as at No. 188, or light potato croquette with a little sugar added. Some of the canned apricots are firm enough to use for this purpose. Drain them well from the juice. the crust made short and the pies or tarts baked to dryness in a slack oven. 877—Trouble in Planning Dinners 876—Preserved Torrato Tarts or Pies. When there are fresh tomatoes around, perhaps already peeled and not otherwise needed it is easy to put them in a pan with a cup of sugar and piece of bruised Kinder and let slowly stew down to pre- serves. Make small open pies of them. The last dinner was not well planned; there were good things in plenty but they ought not to have met in the same bill of fare; there were too many fries; came near being all fried; the fish in batter with potatoes and onions fried, chicken cutlets breaded and fried, croustades the same, croutons too,- and then apricots a la Colbert. It was a mistake to have it so, and such mistakes are being made wherever bills of fare are written continu- ally. When we see a bill of fare in print in a newspaper, it generally is a model one or tries to be so; but models there are few or none in actual practice. The cook does not intend to get several dishes of the same nature or appearance in the same dinner and generally does not know it till it is too late to make a change; perhaps his time for reflection was short or he was thinking about the butcher's bill, or had found one thing he intended to use was spoiled, and an unsuitable sub- stitute was put in hastily. While one bill may be all fries, perhaps another time it will be all cream—cream soup, fish with cream sauce, macaroni a la Bechamel, onions in cream, fried cream fritters, cream cakes and ice cream—for if there is a pastry cook he is sure to be lucky enough to come in with his contribution of creams# at the same time. Another day the dinner will be all dough, with nudel soup, fish in batter, meat pie ris- soles or kromeskies, fritters of some kind or pancakes and a batter pudding, or fruit cobbler. Still again there may be a surfeit of oysters; oysters raw, oyster soup, fish with oyster sauce, oyster stuff- ing in the turkey and oyster patties. So it goes about planning a dinner. One of Thackeray's novels has a French chef for a character, who goes off and plays the piano while composing his bill of fare and seems ludicrous to the reader but there is nothing extravagant about that. Most cooks make up the bulk of the bill of fare for to-morrow whilst carving or dishinjg up their entrees to-day when their thoughts are upon the subject; but some must go off and smoke or sit alone, and theie is no reason why a piano or a banjo might not come in useful at such a time SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S uS and help to prevent the bad arrangement which makes a dinner be all cream or all dough, or of any one thing more than its due proportion. And we have not touched the still higher consideration of how some dinners are all heaviness and indigestibility, beginning with a heavy soup and stuffed fish running on through dishes that allow no relief by contrast to plum pudding, mince pie and tutti frutti: while others are as uniformly thin and meagre, going from weak consomme through water, and more water to a finale of lemon water ice. If a piano will help theproper planning of a dinner, ev- ery house ought to have one. Dinner. August 6. Soup—Mulligatawney a la Manhattan, '(4qts 32 cents.) Sheephead, a la Dieppaise (2 lbs 24, trimmings 20; 44 cents.) Potatoes, serpentine. Roast beef (1 rib steak rare 1 lb 15 cents. Beef a la mode Pariessene (2 lbs with pork etc 33 cents.) Veal pie, a la Fermiere (i^ lbs veal 18, crust etc. 8; 26 cents.) Cutlets of sweetbreads, Victoria (12 or- ders, 1 lb sweetbreads 2$, sauces, bread- ing, frying 20; 45 cents!) Green peas 10, cabbage 4 string beans 2, corn and nee 15, potatoes 15 (46 cents.) Indian pudding, hard sauce (3 pts and sauce 26 cents.) Blackberry—apple pie (2 pies large 20 cents.) Pineapple ice (made like No. 214 with water and whites instead of cream, 2 qts frozen 50 cents.) Cake assorted (15 cents.) Nuts, raisins, cheese, pickles, condi- ments (32 cents.l Milk, cream, buttermilk (38 cents.) Coffee, tea, bread, butter (24 cents.) Total $ 4.46; 32 persons, 14 cents a plate. 878—Mul igatawny a la Manhattan. Mulligatawny soup is always a curry soup although it may be changed in other respects. This remark is prompted by the mistake some cooks are making of giving the name to a soup made of to- matoes and vegetables without curry powder. Mulligatawny is from two East Indian words. The soup above named is a chicken and rice soup with enough curry powder mixed in to give a pale yellow color. It is light and simple. Boil the fowl in the stock, take out and cut it in dice. Strain the stock, put in vegetables cut in dice and the chicken and little rice, curry, seasonings and small amount of starch thickening. 879 -Sheephead a la Dieppoise. Fillets of fish placed in a deep baking pan, a matelotte (or fish stew) poured over, cracker crumbs on top and baked. Di- eppe is a seaport and fishing town. Cut the sheephead or other fish in two-ounce strips, free from bones. Mince an onion fine. Butter the baking pan, strew the onion in and fill with the fish. For the matelotte make white sauce about 3 cup, and put into it shrimps, oysters and button mushrooms, about J£ cup of each, or if oysters are out of sea- son, use lobster or crab substitutes, pour over the fish in the pan, bake as above stated. Dish up with some of the sauce, and serve potatoes in the same plate. 880—Potatoes Serpentine. There is an instrument like an auger made for the special purpose of boring out potatoes in corkscrew shapes. When it has passed through a potato you have two spirals of the size and appearance of strands of untwisted rope. Fry light colored in hot lard. Serve with fish and entrees. 881—Beef a la Mode Parissienne. A piece of beef larded with salt pork only, braised tender, garnished in the dish with large cuts of vegetables in fancy forms, and very green peas, and a crou- ton. Braise the oeef as usual. Prepare an assortment of bright-colored vegeta- bles—carrots, turnips, parsnips, anything that may be at hand, and cut them in shapes like a section of an oran ;e, and some like bottle corks; and for the rouivl COOKING fOR PROFIT. ug ones pick out small onions, size of mar- bles, and fry them till they are lightly browned, in a frying pan. Boil the vege- tables, then put them and the onions in brown sauce; strain in the braised beet gravy and add little wine. Have a bowl of small peas, very green, either garden or French canned. Slice the a la mode beef, place mixed vegetables in gravy around it, spoonful of peas on top and a crouton dipped in sauce at one end. 882—Veal Pie, a la Fermier Femiier is French for farmer; a la mode fermiere means country style.. Make a *ood veal stew with milk in it as directed jor veal pot pie, cover with short pie crust and bake. I 883— Cutlets of Sweetbreads, a la Victoria. £ Croquette mixture of sweetbreads made in cutlet shapes. . . , r There are two principal ways of pre- paring croquettes, either with panada as for the chicken cutlets of the last dinner or with roux of butter and flour, which is richer. Prepare the roux and the sauce made of it by putting a cup ot flour and large y2 cup butter into a frying pan and stir over the fire until they bubble, hen add 2 cups broth, allowing it to boil with constant stirring; this makes sauce of double thickness. Put in a pound or more of minced sweetbreads previously boiled, and 2 raw eggs. Stir till well cooked, add little nutmeg, salt, pepper, lemon juice, and then cool it in a pan. Make out in shape of mutton chops, stick a length of macaroni to imitate the bone, dip in egg and cracker dust, and fry in hot lard. Serve with Allemande sauce in the dish and garniture of crou- tons, fancy potatoes or quenelles. 884—Baked Indian Pudding—Richest. 4 cups milk—a quart. 1 heaped cup corn meal—6 ounces. Butter size of an egg—2 ounces. 1 large cooking spoon molasses— 3 ounces. 4 eggs (8 yolks are better.) 1 small lemon. Make mush of the milk and meal and set it at the back of the range, or on a brick and with a tight lid on keep cooking slowly for an hour or two. Then grate in the rind of lemon and squeeze in iuicj of half; add the black molasses, butter and eggs and bake in a 2 quart pan about l/i hour. It makes 3 pints. As only half the people, or probably less will order pudding or any other ordinary dish in a plentiful dinner this amount is enough for a dinner for 30. There are plenty of cooks even in very good hotels - who can never make a satisfactory In- dian pudding; it runs with them from a hard corn cake to a sort of brown gruel which nobody wants. The only remedy is to weigh or measure the ingredients and follow directions. 885-Mixed Fruits For Pies. When certain kinds of fruits have been repeatedly used because of their plenti- fulness some variety may be had by mix- ing two sorts together. Apples and blackberries are good in any form of pastry when so mixed; in the bakery pies, No. ^03, in steamed fruit puddings, No. 176, and in the ordinary family pie—and mulberries which are almost useless alone may be used as well as any other fruit if mixed with an acid variety. 886—Trouble With Captain Joh son. The trouble with Captain Johnson was, he was too superficial in his methods for his own interests and was not so smart as he thought himself. It was a long way from this place; yet I could not help reverting to one of the extremes of wastefulness, when, by a singular unfit- ness of season, just as 1 was deploring the loss of frying fat in making the dinner of two days ago, the woodman, or keeper of this place through the winter time, came with a complaint that he is getting no grease this summer lor his wife to make her winter's soap with, as he has been used to do, and that the waste from the kitchen is not sufficient to fatten over half the pigs he has supplied himself with, and ms pork crop will be deplora- bly short. He intimates that his place is SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S not worth much to him if shorn of these perquisites. This is a sad case, but none of us get any such perquisites in this house. The question is here how a good table can be set in a house that charges ten dollars a week when all the saving ways of turning one thing into an- other and using up everything by the ap- pliance of skill such as the French are credited with in the same line are brought into requisition and carried out industri- ously, and not how many hogs can we fatten, or how many barrels ofgrease can we make. Poor John! By the time the little suet that comes on the closely trimmed meats has been used for short- ening pie crusts and puddings, and the fat from the roasts and soups is used for frying and sauteing, there is hardly enough left for him to grease his boots with. I know from experience that thousands of meals are sold daily for from 20 to 25 cents that are allowed to cost 40 or 50 cents, not through what the people eat or want, but because of the unneces- sary wastes of all kinds and the extrane- ous expenses, and the sellers of meals on those losing terms are only kept up by their beds, their bar profits, livery or other source of revenue. John is a young man and was born too late. He would have been happy on Captain Johnson's steamboat on the Mississippi where the cooks made from 7j£ to io^ barrels of grease to sell for themselves every trip the boat made. It will be observed there was always a half barrel—that is where Captain Johnson comes in. He could neither read nor write, but he owned his steamboat and she was a good one—the America—carry- ing cotton, tobacco and pork from the city of N , State of T , to New Orleans, and taking molasses and imported goods on the return trip. But New Orleans was the point the employes considered the beginning and the end of the trip. This used to take about three weeks on the average. On every trip up the boat used to take on a supply of pine knots at the mouth of Red River; that was racing fuel kept ready in case any boat came in sight, that it was necessary to beat; for the America could beat most of them. But before reaching Red River on the return trip, that stock of pine was exhausted; and there being nothing but Tennessee poplar and gum wood on the boat, it was no uncommon thing for the engineers to seize all the bacon shoulders and hams they could lay their hands on to mix with it to make more steam. The cooks thought that a very poor use to put fat bacon to, and, to prevent it, all they could lay their hands on, they cut up and laid snugly out of the engineers' reach in the bottom of their grease bar- rels. Captain Johnson, as may well be supposed, was averse to all such pro- ceedings, and instituted a rule which none dared Dreak, that no soap-grease man should take away the "slush or any part of it before he had examined it. Does the reader think that that placed the boys in a bad fix? Not at all; they knew him well. So every trip on the day of reach- ing port he went down into the kitchen and rolled up his right sleeve. "Well, boys, how many barrels of slush have you made this trip?" (This is where the politicians get the word "slush money"). "Only eight and a half, Cap- tain,—been as saving on you as possible —it might have been ten barrels if we hadn't took good care." "Eight—nine! why you villains— what do you mean, going to rob me out of my boat?" "Captain, we had a big trip of passen- gers up, and a long trip, and the meats were some fatter than usual, and this ain't so much as last trip by half a—" "Let me see it—let me see it—well, why don't you bring me my long flesh fork—here—no, not that, the long one. Oh you infernal rascals, I know you. I began life as a cook myself, and I know you." And with that Captain Johnson began forking the contents of the first full barrel over into the half-filled barrel that stood ready for it. By the time the full barrel was half emptied the half barrel was, of course, full; and, having no more room, he commenced forking over the next full barrel into that he had just quit, never reaching the bottom of any barrel in the row, but keeping up his talk all the while. "You can't rob me, boys, I've got eyes and my eyes ain't sheep's eyes that you can pull the wool over—I've been a cook and I know the ropes—and—and I've pulled 'em all—there, now; I've got you, what's this?" 131 COOKING FOR PROFIT. But it always proved to be a bare bone or something worthless; and so the farce was always carried out on every trip dur- ing the eight month's season, and the boys received $4 a barrel from the soap men for spending money as soon as the boat reached the wharf. It stands in proof that human nature— even steamboat human nature—is not wholly depraved; that nobody ever wounded Captain Johnson's self-love by informing him how grossly he was being deceived? Suppose the boys beat him out of a hundred dollars over and above what was right; he must be dead before this; for he was well along in years at that time, and surely it was worth twice a hundred dollars to him to die in the happy belief that nobody had ever been able to pull the wool over his eves. 887—Potage a la Bagration. Dinner. August 7. Soup—Potage a la Bagiation (6 qts 36 cents.) Croaker in batter, sauce remoulade ($ lbs and sauce, 46 cents.) Potatoes a la Bazaine. Boiled mutton, caper sauce (boned shoulder, 2 lbs and sauce 27 cents.) Roast beef (2 lbs flank 22 cents.) Spring lamb (hind quarter, 6 lbs 70 cents.) Emince of veal with eggs (6 orders, 8 cents.) Timbales of macaroni a la Rossini (15 orders 23 cents.) Rice 5, peas 12, corn 15, cabbage 6, potatoes 15 (53 cents.) Sliced bread and butter pudding (with sauce, 2 qts, 20 orders 22 cents.) Apricot pie (2 with one can apricots 25, crust s, 30 cents.) Vanilla ice cream (2 qts pure, 3 when frozen 65 cents.) Chocolate cake (finest, No. 894, 1 lb 12 cents.) White cake (finest, No. 622, 1 lb 10 cents.) Fruit, cheese, crackers, pickles (30 cents.) Milk, cream, buttermilk (38 cents.) Bread, butter, coffee, tea (28 cents.) Total $5 20; 32 persons, 16 cents a plate. Anything denominated bagration will prove to be a mixture of fish and vegeta- bles. For potage bagration make a white rice soup with mixed vegetables cut in small dice and fish cut small, about one- third of it milk, and flavor with curry or saffron. If in Lent make the stock of the fish by boiling it whole, take out, strain the liquor and cut the fish in pieces to be added after the rice and vegetables are cooked enough. The soup should be rather thick with rice and fish and well sprinkled with parsley at dishing-up time. Careme was at one period in the em- ploy of the Countess of Bagration; it is probable that the half dozen dishes bear- ing that designation were named in com- pliment to her or to the house. 888—Croaker in Batter, Sauce Re- moulade. The croaker is a southern sea-fish, small, something like a white perch— good for frying and broiling. Split the fish lengthwise, remove the bone, salt well, dip in thin batter same as for a la Horly, or same as fruit fritters, and fry in lard not too hot. Serve with sauce and some special form of potatoes. 889—Sauce Remoulade. Remoulade is the French name of a favorite kind of salad dressing that is made with cooked yolks in part, has gar- lic, shalots and parsley added. It is dif- ferent from mayonaise which is made with raw yolks. Looks like sauce tartare, which is minced pickles and shalots (young onions) in mayonaise. Take: 3 hard boiled yolks. 1 raw yolk. % cup olive oil. Same of melted fresh butter. ^ cup vinegar. 1 teaspoon salt, pinch of cayenne. 1 teaspoon made mustard. 2 or 3 cloves of garlic crushed and minced, and 2 tablespoons finely minced green onions. Pound the hard-boiled yolks in a bowl SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 132 with the butter; add salt, mustard pep- per; then the raw yolk, or two of them, and stir in the oil gradually and alter- nately with the vinegar. It makes a but- tery compound that is a most excellent salad dressing without the garlic and on- ion, but add those to make the sauce remoulade. 8S0—Potatoes Algerienne. Cut raw potatoes in large cubes (dice) same as for Brabant, the more perfect the better: the outside trimmings of po- tato can be used to mash. Steam or boil first and let get cold, then saute the cubes in a frying pan like Dutch fried. Sprinkle with salt and parsley when done. Serve with fish and as a garnish for en- trees. Cold boiled potatoes can be used equally as well as raw, and the outside cuttings cooked a la Lyonaise. Lyonaise refers to the city of Lyons in France. Bazaine was the name of a general. 891— fcmince of Veal With Eggs. Trim up the remains of cold veal or shave off the outside of cold cooked cut- lets; mince the meat small, put in a pan with few spoonfuls of hot gravy, season- ing of powdered thyme or sage or nut- meg, salt and pepper; make hot without cooking. Serve neatly a spoonful heaped in a small dish with a lengthwise quarter or two of hard-boiled egg on top and croutons, fancy potatoes or quenelles for ornament. 892-Timbales of Macaroni, a la Rossini. A timbale is a shape, mould or form; the term is not often applied to anything but moulds of macaroni, rice and potato. Cook y2 pound of macaroni, and when cold, cut it in inch lengths, and mix with it a cupful of grated cheese, little salt and jjepper. Slice up y2 cup of button mushrooms, same of cold, smoked tongue, same of truffles or boiled chicken (livers substi- tute); moisten them with a spoonful of Spanish sauce or gravy; then mix them with the macaroni and cheese. Take deep gem pans or patty pans of sufficient number, butter and coat them with cracker dust, press in the macaroni mixture, put a small lump of butter on top; bake brown. Serve with a spoonful of gravy in the dish, the timbale turned out of the mould, a conical pile of cheese on top. Named for Rossini, the composer, who is said to have been extremely partial to both truffles and macaroni. 893—Sliced Bread and Butter Pud- ding. i pound bread in slices—about r loaf. }4 cup butter. 4 cups milk. 2 tablespoons sugar, 3 eggs (6 yolks are better.) i cup currants. Grated nutmeg enough to flavor. Have the slices free from dark crust, spread the butter on them, place in two layers in the pudding pan with currants between and on top. Beat eggs, sugar, milk and nutmeg together, andpourover the bread, cover with either buttered pa- per or crust and bake half an hour. Serve with sauce or sweetened cream. 894—Chocolat. Cake—Best. a cups granulated sugar—a pound. i cup butter—^ pound. r cup milk—}£ pint. S cups flour—little over a pound. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 12 whites of eggs—or i% cups. 4 ounces chocolate. Vanilla extract. Make up same as white cake, No. 622, melt the chocolate by warming it in a cup with nothing added, and beat it into the cake. Vanilla extract improves the chocolate flavor but is not essential. 4 pounds cost 48 cents. 895—Trouble in Serving Meals. At a pleasure resort it is the same as on board a steamer or at the first table of a public banquet, everybody sits down to the table at the same instant, and, to all ( SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S Ig4 Roast beef (rip ends only, 3 lbs. 24 cents.) Spring lamb (fore quarter, 6 lbs, 70 cents,) Veal cutlets, a la Milanaise (8 orders, 1 lb and trimmings, 20 cents.) Vinaigrette of brains, Provencale (7 orders, brains with trimmings, 25 cents,) Marrowfat peas 20, beets in sauce 6, rice 4, string beans 2, tomatoes 15, pota- toes 14 (61 cents,) Boiled plum pudding, sauce sabayon (No. 901, with sauce 38 cents.) Rhubarb pie (2 small garden, 15 cents.) Peach ice cream (No. 217; Cal. peaches in syrup, 1 can 25, 3 pts cream, etc., 75 cents.) Cakes, fruit and white (charged pre- vious meals.) Summer apples, nuts, raisins, cheese, 40 cents.) Milk, buttermilk, 2 gallons 24, cream 1 qt 20, (44 cents.) Butter 10, bread 6, coffee, tea, 12 (28 cents.) Total $5 50532 persons, 17 cents a plate. 896—Consomme With Quenelles. Clear soup like No. 139 with yellow egg balls in the plates. One way of mak- ing egg balls for such purposes may be found at No. 797. Another sort is made as follows: Put into a small sauce- pan a heaping tablespoon of flour, and about the same weight of butter, and stir them over the fire as if to make butter sauce, instead of a full cup of water or broth, which this amount of flour would thicken, pour in only half a cup, stir up, and you have a stiff butter paste. Add the yolks of 4 eggs, one after the other, stirring over the fire until they are cooked in the mixture. Season with salt, if not enough in the butter, cayenne and nutmeg. Make in balls when cool, size of grapes, poach them in water, drop 4 or 5 in each plate of consomme when served. Another way is to pound 4 hard boiled yolks with an equal amount of butter, add all the dry flour needed to make dough of it, make in balls and boil. with the point of a sharp knife or by dip- ping in boiling water, but it need not be split open. Brush_ over with egg, sift cracker meal upon it, take up ana place in baking pan with oil or lard and bake light brown, basting once. Make white sauce (veioute) with fish liquor or oyster liquor and a small portion of white wine. Add to it oysters, crayfish, button mush- rooms, very small onions, shrimps and scallops, or such substitutes as may be available to make a good matelotte sauce with wine, salt and cayenne. Serve por- tions of the fish with plenty of the mate- lotte poured over, and potatoes in some special form in the same plate. Can be served whole for a party as well with the matelotte poured around, sliced lemons on the fish and potato boulettes or Par- isienne stacked in groups at ends and sides. loinville is the title of a French prince 898—Potato Boulettes. 897—Red Snapper a la Joinville. Remove the rough skin of this fish Potato balls, made of potato croquette mixture with another raw yolk added to make it moist. Roll in flour till they have taken a good coating and without egging or breading; fry them in the fry- ing basket in very hot lard, only a min- ute or two. They burst open if fried too long. They should be about the size of walnuts or little larger. Serve two in each plate of fish. 899—Veal Cutlets, Milanaise. Cut 8 cutlets small and thin, but of good shape; dust with powdered herbs, salt and pepper; dip both sides in a plate of flour ana let them remain in it until near dinner time. Melt 4 ounces of but- ter in a frying pan, and, when it froths up, lay in the cutlets and saute them brown. Serve direct out of the pan with the hot, brown butter adhering, and a few olives and a quarter of lemon in the dish. 900—Vinaigrette of Brains, a la Provencale. French vinaigrette sauce of minced pickles and shalots of olive oil seasoned "5 COOKING FOR PROFIT. with salt and pepper; poured over a por- tion of calfs brains previously boilea. Parboil the brains first, ana pick off all the dark stains, divide in portions and simmer for half an hour in seasoned broth, cut up a lemon in them and keep hot till served. The vinaigrette sauce to be kept cold. It is thick with minced f;ickles and shalots enough to season— ike tartar sauce made ofclearoil instead of mayonaise. 901—Boiled Pium Pudding. i pound white bread crumbs—4ptessed cups. y2 pound sugar—i cup. Y> pound minced suet—2 pressed cups. J4 pound raisins—1 heaped cup. Same of currants. 1 cup milk. 4 eggs, pinch soda and salt. 1 teaspoon mixed ground spices—cin- namon, nutmeg, mace, alspice. Mix the dry articles together—the bread crumbs chopped very fine; mix the milk and eggs, salt and soda, and, if you use brandy or wine, add a few spoonfuls and pour it over the dry mixture and stir up thoroughly. Tie up in two pudding bags, or put in two moulds and boil or steam them 4 hours. Brandy sauce, or sabayon or No. 733. Cost, bread 5, sugar 4, suet 4, raisins and currants 10, milk 1, eggs 5, spices, lemon peel or liquor 5; 34 cents for 3^ pounds or 25 orders. 902—Trouble With the Manager. The trouble with our manager is, he is not making as much money as he ex- pected, and he is looking at the table and at my regularly rendered account of cost per meal to find the reason why. Another of those blue spells has come upon us which often occur early in Au- gust when it turns unseasonably cold and there has been two days of steady rain. The people sit and mope and have no appetites for meals, get tired of them- selves and want to get up and go, and some do go; many resort houses are al- most emptied by the occurrence of two rainy days. Not only that, but those who are free are often curious to try a number of different places during the season and although the average of goers and comers may be equal in the end, there are times when an hotel is almost depopulated for no reason but that it is the ebb before the flood, and it happens so. The way it began between the mana- ger and myself was this: You see the manager at such a small place as this has to be a gentleman of all-work; he is re- quired to look sweet, and play croquette and tennis part of the time, but he also acts as host, clerk, cashier, bookkeeper, paymaster and part steward. As long as there was nobody in the house and no bills to collect we will suppose the owner of the place put up the money for ex- penses, but when there began to be some receipts, the manager was told to go it alone, and I expect he has been counting over his money. Day after to-morrow he has to pay all his help, the tenth being the day of the month almost always ob- served in that way, for by that time the monthly bills which fall due on the first have been collected and the indebtedness to the butcher and market men has been liquidated, then when the employees are paid he can count over his balance on hand, or at least ask where it is. If our crowd had kept up to about forty-five souls he would have been away ahead and would have asked me no questions; as it is he has been asked on every trip to town to bring back a couple of cans of mushrooms, or a dozen lemons, or a can of shrimps and bottle of oil and so forth and while he always brings them he hesi- tates and asks first if they are really nec- essarv, with a great stress laid upon the "really." Now, the butcher at the Glen knows we get_ our meats by express and never go to him except in a case of ne- cessity; consequently, he puts his finger in our manager's eye every time he sells him a piece of meat. This afternoon he sold the manager—who is proud to say he does not know one piece of meat from another—a piece of the neck of beef for a roast, and flour briskets of mutton for racks and loins to cut into chops, and when I explained the manager only laugh- ed, and said it was good enough, and lie would like to make some money anyhow, and there was no use of being so particular Then he went on to ask why the dinners now were costing sixteen and seventeen SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 136 cents a plate according to my own show- ing; whereas, for two or three weeks they ran from seven to eleven cents only, and why the same cheap scale could not be always preserved. There is no reason why. He is in the right. Ten- cent dinners such as we had three weeks back could be continued all the season, and give satisfaction. However, I have not been under any instruction or restraint in this matter. If the owner of the place has had any thought about the matter, it has probably been only to see what I would do, and in what ways this sum- mer's style would differ from the house- hold style of keeping up a table. John, the keeper, has been comparing the fru- gal management of provisions this sum- mer, which leaves him no perquisites with the waste of former years, which gave him a large pork crop, and- he thinks it extreme niggardliness. The manager, who was not here last year, is comparing the seventeen-cents-a- plate of to-day, with the ten-cents-a- plate of last month, and it seems to him a change to extravagance. There is no room for a reasonable doubt that there was much wasted last year through want of knowing what to do with it, and through cooking too much as it takes to make our most expensive meals now. The extravagance of the dinners, such as it is, arises from the use of more meat in the soups and sauces, the use of sea-fish, which the butcher sends according to a custom which prevails, at eleven cents, and which costs 12^, delivered; where- as, the lake fish costs but 9; and the cooking in fillets entails a loss of bulk and requires 1 lore pounds gross for a given number of people than if cooked plain, with the bones in. There has been an indulgence in a few cans of pine- apple, and other fruits in syrup, a few olives, a bottle of wine, a mincing up of pickles, a rather more lavish use of eggs and crackers for frying, and of lard for the same, a little waste in the matter of potatoes in fancy forms, the new potatoes being dearer than the old, ana all the odd cents counted up together have swelled the sum total. There has not been a corresponding increase in the cost of breakfast and supper, the latter, in- deed, being half made up of the meats and other remains from dinner, and be- ing quite an inexpensive meal. But what are we here for? Not alone to see how cheaply one summer hotel can be kept, but to find out how much it coststo live well. The custom men- tioned in connection with the butcher is, that one who supplies a number of hotels occasionally get a refrigerator car full of special kinds of provisions, which he sends around to his first-class customers, without waiting for the order, assuming that a novely will be welcome in the height of the season. Dinner. August 9. Soup—Pot au fere (6 qts 20 cents.) Sliced cucumbers (on table 12 cents.) Stewed codfish and potatoes (18 cents.) Corned tongue and cabbage [}/z tongue 15, cabbage 5, 20 cents.) Roast beef (piece loin, 2^ lbs 30 cents.) Breast of lamb, a la jardiniere (2 bris- kets, 4 lbs 32 cents.) Ragout of beef, a la Creole (meat from soup pot 20, with trimmings 30 cents.) Macaroni au gratin (No. 629; 12 cents.) Summer beats 5, string beans \, corn 15, rice 7, potatoes 15 (45 cents.) Baked Indian pudding (cheap, 20 cents.) Apple pie, rhubarb pie (4 pies, 28 cents.) Lemon ice s f°r the cooking; and when be- sides that, the individuals who are not expected to want eggs were counted out, it left the usual 2 eggs apiece for proper orders. 978—Potatoes for Four Thousand. Bought 16 bushels ranging 50, 60, 75 cents. Total, $9 95. 16 bushels are 960 pounds; about # lb each person each meal at cost of \i cent each. Potatoes lose one-third the gross weight if pared raw. g79—Fresh Vegetables and Fruits for Four Thousand. Bought at sundry times and some from the garden to the amount of $14 00. 98O—Canned Fruits and Vegetables for Four Thousand. Bought vegetables 53 cans $ 7 95 Bought fruits, 60 cans n25 Mushrooms, shrimps and lobster, 8 cans 2 20 Total $2I4o Dinner. August 16. Soup—consomme Claremont (6 qts 36 cents.) Pike, a la Genoise (6 lbs gross and sauce 60 cents.) Potatoes French fried. Boiled corned tongue and cabbage (tongue 30, with cabbage 35 cents.) Roast guinea chicken, currant jelly (8 fowls 2 00.) Collops of beef, a la Macedoine (2 lbs 22, vegetables io, 18 orders 32 cents.) Epkramme of lamb, Bordelaise (2 lbs, 16 orders 24 cents.) Calf's head in batter, sauce piquante (}4 head 30, total 16 orders 45 cents.) Cut-offcorn 20, hot slaw 5, squash 8, tomatoes io, potatoes 15 (58 cents.) Baked farina pudding, vanilla sauce (5 pts and sauce 36 orders 32 cents.) Blueberry shortcake with cream (4 cakes, 32 orders with cream 55 cents.) Chocolate cup custard (2 qts, 24 cus- tard cups, 20 cents.) Butter sponge cake (1 lb 10 cents.) Milk, cream 60, coffee, tea, sugar, bread, butter 52 {112 cents.) Total $7 19: 50 persons; 14^ cents a plate. 981—Consomme Claremont. Clear consomme, like roval, with crisp light fried onipns in rings dropped in the plates. Having the consomme prepared and well flavored with meat extract and catsup, cut some onions in slices across and separate the slices into rings; throw these into a pan of flour and dust well; then into clean hot lard, and let fry yel- low and dry. Drain free from grease, and put a small proportion in each plate as served. It requires a little practice to fry onions this way successfully just as it does to fry Saratoga chips. Claremont is the name of a place and a palace. 982—Pike, a la Genoise. Place_ the fish in the baking pan with- out splitting open, but scored across where the portions are to be taken off. Slice a small carrot, piece of turnip, an onion and stalk of celery into the pan, and cut a slice of fat salt pork and mix in. Add a bayleaf, salt, pepper and a pint of soup stock. Bake brown with fre- quent basting for over half an hour. Then take up the fish with a fish-slice carefully into a dish. Pour off the grease from the baking pan and put in a pint of stock again, a spoonful of tomatoes or tomato catsup and y2 cup wine; let boil up till the fish glaze in the pan is all dissolved, thicken slightly and strain for sauce to the fish. 983—Potatoes French-Fried. The common way. Cut raw potatoes *# SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S supper is the cheapest meal, breakfast a little higher, dinner costs as much as both the other meals put together; where din- ner rules at 12 cents breakfast will cost 7 and supper 5; where lunch is served and a s or 6 o'clock dinner, the lunch is or ought to be as cheap as the ordi nary supoer. Dinner. August 17. Soup—Potage Alexandria (7 qts 40 cents.) Whitefish a la Cardinal (4 lbs and trim- mings, 65 cents.) Potato crulls. Cold tongue. Potato salad (10 cents.) Roast beef (2 ribs 5 lbs net, 70 cents.) Roast Pork a l'Anglaise (6 lbs and dressing, 70 cents.) Veal cutlets a la Maintenon (20 orders, 45 cents.) Calves brains, sauce remoulade (6 or- ders, 12 cents.) Farina fritters, lemon flavor (cold pud- ding from yesterday, say, 10 cents.) Fried carrots 6, beets 4, squash 10, grated corn 20, tomatoes 10, potatoes 15 (6s cents.) Baked cabinet pudding (meringued 2% qts 30 orders, 35 cents.) Pineapple cream pie (2 cans, 5 pies open, thin, 65 cents.) Peach sherbet (No. 235; with can peaches and 2 qts water, etc., 65 cents.) Queen cakes (No. 1007; 3 lbs 36 cents.) Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, pickles (52 cents.) Milk, cream 60, coffee, tea, bread, butter 48 (108 cents.) Total, $7 48; 52 persons; 14^ cents a plate. 997—Potage Alexandria. It is a vegetable puree soup spotted with a jardiniere of mixed vegetables cooked separately. Set the strained soup stock over the fire with a cup of raw rice, a quart of green peas, a large turnip, squash, celery, kohl-rabi, leaks and onions, all in smaller quantity than the peas, and a piece of lean salt pork. Cook the vegetables soft, then pass them, the rice, and the stock together through a strainer. It is like green peas soup. Prepare a small quantity of carrot, turnip and parsnip, or squash or other vegetables cut in small dice, and boiled separately, a spoonful of green tpeas or flageolets or haricots verts, and mix in and season to taste. 998-Whitefish a la Cardinal. Lay the fish open in a baking pan, spread over with lobster paste made the same as for lobster croquettes, dredge a small amount of cracker dust on top and bake, basting once with butter. Serve cuts with cardinal sauce in the dish, and some special form of potatoes. 999—Cardinal Sauce. Anything a la cardinal may|be expected to be red or have red ornaments. Cardi- nal red befojg the color of the robe worn by the Cardinals on State occasions. Make butter sauce and make it red or at least pink with pounded red lobster meat and shrimp passed through a seive, add cayenne ana lemon juice to this sauce. Lobster coral—the roe—is used for this purpose where it can be obtained. 1000—Potato Crulls. There are small machines of the apple- parer class, which cut potatoes in spiral shavings called crulls or curls. Fry these in the usual way of fried potatoes, drain, dust with fine salt; serve one with each plate of fish. 1001—Roast Pork, a l'Anglaise. Pork with sage and onions. Take the bone out of a shoulder or loin of pork. Mince a large onion, throw it in a frying pan with a spoonful of fat, and stir it over the fire; put in a table- spoonful of powdered sage, some salt and pepper. Spread the minced onion upon the meat and put some in the cavity where the bone was taken out; roll ups COOKING FOR PROFIT. '47 tie with twine, roast in a pan till well done. Take up, pour off the fat and make gravy in the pan with water added to the sea- soned glazed that remains, or else pour brown sauce in and let it boil up. Stir in a tablespoon of made mustard, and strain the sauce. 1002— Veal Cutlets, a la Maintenon. Cut veal steaks from the best part, (using the remaining pieces for stews) very thin and about two and a half inches wide. Make a well seasoned mince like that for kromeskies, No. 961; or chicken croquette mixture. Spread the mince on the cutlets, roll them into a cushion shape, place close together in a buttered pan, pour a few spoonfuls of seasoned broth and minced mushrooms and pars- ley in the spaces; sift cracker dust on top, and bake about half an hour. Serve with a brown sauce poured un- der and garnish with croutons and lemon slices dipped in parsley. 1003—Calves' Brains in Batter, Re- moulade. Boil the brains, perhaps those saved from one calfs head will be enough to fill the bill; and when cold cut in small pieces and put them in a dish of vinegar and water with salt and pepper. When to be cooked again drain the pieces, roll in flour, then dip in thin fritter batter and drop into hot lard. Fry light-color- ed and serve with remoulade sauce. 1004—Farina Fritters. Make farina cake or pudding and let it become cold, then slice it in long but narrow pieces, dip in egg and cracker meal ana fry brown. Roll the fritters in powdered sugar and serve without sauce. The sugar may be flavored by grating lemon or orange rind into it, or dropping vanilla extract and stirring it about. 1005—Fried Carrots. Cut in long strips, boil in water, drain, salt well, shake about in a pan of flour and fry the same as fried potatoes. 1006—Grated Corn. Boil ears of green corn and grate off the cob instead of cutting as for cut-off corn. Season the grated corn with but- ter, salt and a spoonful or two of cream, and serve as a vegetable same as Summer squash. 1007—Queen Cakes. Queen cake is the best white cake with sultana raisins, citron and currant; a fine white fruit cake. Make the best white cake, No. 622; and add about a cupful of each of the fruits. The greenest new-made citron should be chosen as it looks better in the cake than the dark pieces. Can be baked in one mould, or this way: Having made the cake mixture put it in small muffin pans or gem pans to bake, and frost the tops when done. Costs a trifle more than other kinds, chiefly because it takes more weight to serve small cakes frosted to each order than in slices. 1008—Baked Cabinet Pudding. _ It is made with slices of cake and citron in small slips; custard poured over and baked, and then frosted on top like lemon pie. Take slices of cake of any sort, but sponge cake is the best, and enough to half nil a three-quart pudding pan. Place one layer of cake in the pan and drop in bits of butter and shreds of citron, another layer on that and butter and citron again. Mix three eggs in four cups of milk— no sugar needed—and flavor with grated lemon rind and juice. Pour it over the cake in the pan, cover with a sheet of buttered paper, bake about half an hour. Frost over with four whites whipped up firm, and four tablespoons sugar stirred in. Serve with sweetened cream. Costs twenty-nine cents for four pints without frosting or sauce, but it uses up dry slices of cake at full value. Brandy 148 SAAW FRAAVC/SCO AſOTEL GAZETTE'S is added to this pudding when it is wanted richer. 1009–Pineapple Cream Pie. 1 quart pineapple–2 cans. }} cups sugar–12 ounces. I Cup Cream. 12 yolks of eggs. -- - If fresh pineapple grate it; if cans save the juice for sauces and mince the fruit first and then mash it, and stir it over the fire in a saucepan with the sugar for a few minutes; add the cream and the yolks well beaten and fill into small, open pies, these mixtures being richer than ordinary fruits. The same mixture stir- red over the fireafter the yolks are added makes a rich pineapple conserve for spreading on layer cakes and filling tart- lets. Use the whites of eggs for frosting cabinet pudding and in the sherbet: Cost, according to pineapple, probably sixty cents for four pies. 1010—How Much They Eat. To serve four thousand meals required solid food as follows: Flour and meal 603 pounds made into bread and pastry was, say 8oolbs Oatmeal and wheat 62 pounds made into mush was say...... 15o ” Rice, tapioca, starch, beans, 28 pounds made............... 85 ° Meat, fish and poultry Sugar - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - S. . . . . . . . --- - - - - - - - - - - Butter and lard.......... ..... 47 Potatoes 960 pounds less % by paring.....". . . . . --- - - - - - - - - - 64o " Canned goods 121 average 2 pounds solid. . . . . . . . . . . ... 242 " Green vegetables and fruits, about............ . . ... -------- 170 ° Sundries in grocery bill........ 234" Total. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4227 lbs That is about 1 pound and 4 ounce to each person each meal. Discarding the fractions and leaving the 227 pounds to represent the waste left on the plates, we have one pound of solid food as the requirement for each person three times al 3. We are dealing now with aver- ages and these are examples of the aver- age meals. - Average breakfast order: Fruit or oatmeal........... 2-ounces Beefsteak or chop......... 2 ” Ham and bacon.......... 1 * Eggs or omelet, 2 eggs..... 3 * Potatoes.................. 2 ” Roll, corn bread, toast 3 * ugar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 * utter.................... 1 * Waffle or 2 cakes............ 2 ” Total.................... 17 ounces And #4 pint of coffee or tea and the same of milk or water. Average dinner order: Soup 7% plate with crackers... 4 ozs Fish with potato or bread..... 3.” Roast meat, thin slice........ 154” £ntree stuffed chicken or veal 2%" vegetables 3 kinds........... 6 * Pastry or ice cream.......... 3 * Bread, butter, nuts, fruit...... 2 ” Total. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... 22 OzS And a pint of milk or water. A large proportion of the people never take soup in Summer and about as many do not order fish, but perhaps take more meat dishes and pastry, and a few make a meal principally of vegetables. Average º order: Fruit or mush. . . . . . . . . . . . 2 ounces Meat hot or cold......... 2 ” Roll and muffin.......... 3 * Baked potato...... ...... 3 * Butter................... I " Sugar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 * Cake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 * Total.................... 13 ounces And a pint of coffee, tea or milk. 1011–How Much They Drink. To serve fourthousand meals required: Milk and cream.......... Iod 2 quarts Coffee at 1 lb for 2 gallons 240 " Tea at 1 lb for 5 gallons... 4o Total. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1322 quarts Which is § quart each person each. meal. While some drink water exclu- COOKING FOR PROFIT. 149 sively there are others who take double shares in the milk which is one of the most important items in the menu. The best reason that many city people can give for spending the Summer at a coun- try house is the benefit to be derived from an abundant supply of pure milk and cream. Dinner. August 18. Soup—Consomme paysanne (7 qts 42 cents.) Fried sunfish, a la Margate (string of 30 panfish, 5 lb 40 cents." Potatoes stuffed. Sliced cucumbers, potato salad, olives (20 cents.) Boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce (4 lbs 55 cents.) Roast beef (loin 4 lbs 52 cents.) Chicken pot pie (5 fowls 125, with trimmings, 140 cents.) Small fillets of beef a la Creole (2 lbs and sauce, 30 cents.) Virginia grated corn pudding (25 cents.) Lima beans 7, mashed turnips 4, browned carrots 5, tomatoes 12, potatoes 15 (46 cents.) Steamed cabinet pudding (36 orders, 50 cents.) Sweet potato pie (5 pies 43 cents.) Vanilla ice cream (3^ qts 75 cents.) Cocoanut macaroons (same as No. 457; doubled, 26 cents.) Apple, peaches, nuts, crackers, cheese l cents.) Mtilk, cream 66, coffee, tea, sugar, bread, butter 53 (119 cents.) Total, $8 13; 54 persons; 15 cents a plate. (siS 1012—Consomme Paysanne. Clear consomme with vegetables like jardiniere and Brunoise but the specialty of shred cabbage in addition. Paysanne means peasant-county style. For the vegetables take the smallest vegetable spoon and scoop out carrots, squash, turnips of two colors, or whatever may be available in the vegetable line, size of peas, boil them along with a handful or two of cabbage shrea fine as if for slaw; draw away the water when done, and put the vegetables in the consomme. Have some very small and thin pieces of toast ready and drop two or three in each plate. 1013—Fried Panfish, a la Margate. Dip small fish in flour and fry in a pan of hot lard. To garnish, have ready a pint of young green peas, fry them in lard or clear but- ter, not too hot, until they are dry but very bright green, like parched peas in taste. Snake them up in a little fresh butter and serve a spoonful around the fish. Margate is a pleasure resort and fishing place. 1014—Potatoes Stuffed. Select medium potatoes all of one size and cut off the ends and bake. When the potatoes are done scoop out the in- side, mash and season, then put it back into the shells, set them on end in the baking pan and keep m the oven till wanted. Serve with fish but on a separate plate or dish. 1015—Chicken Pot Pie, Country Style. Cut up five fowls in joints and boil in water barely enough to cover, and time according to age. Old fowls make good pies if allowed two or three hours to stew tender. Add a seasoning of sait pork and onion, parsley, salt and pepper. When done add milk to make sauce suf- ficient, thicken till like thin sauce and turn the stew into a pan that will go in the oven. Make up pot pie dumpling batter as elsewhere directed, drop spoon- fuls all over the surface and bake twenty minutes or more. 1016—Small Fillets of Beef, a la Creole. Small beefsteak pieces satitee*d and stewed tender and put in tomato sauce. To saute the meat put in the frying pan first a minced onion and piece of garlic along with butter or oil, and thb pieces '5<> SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S of steak on top. When the onion and steaks begin to brown, add soup stock in small quantity and put on the lid and keep it simmering. Fill up with tomato sauce, or Spanisn sauce with tomatoes added, just before time to serve. Gam ish with croutons of fried bread. 1017—Grated Com Pudding. Grate cooked corn off the cob; to a quart add four yolks eggs, half cup of milk, half cup of butter, salt and pinch of white pepper. Put in a tin pan and bake. Serve as a vegetable, a spoonful in a small dish. 1018—Browned Carrots. Steam or boil first; put the carrots in a pan in the oven with a spoonful of roast meat fat and bake brown. Dredge salt. 1019—Steamed Cabinet Puddings. Individual; in custard cups. Take as many slices of cake as will fill a two-quart pan. y2 cup butter. Yz cup citron shred fine. 6 cups milk. 8 eggs. }<£ cup currant jelly. Spread the slices of cake one side with butter the other with jelly, very thinly; put three or four together cut in dice, mix the shred citron with the cake and fill custard cups or deep muffin pans. Mix the eggs and milk together—no sugar needed—and pour over the cake, press down with a teaspoon after it has soaked a short time, then steam about half an hour. Turn the puddings out in saucers to serve, and there ought to be either a spoonful of whipped cream or egg mer- ingue on top and the meringue browned with a red hot shovel held over it. 1020—Sliced Sweet Potato Pie. Steam a few sweet potatoes and let get cold. Roll out four or five pie crusts, slice the sweet potatoes thin and lay in slices enough to a little more than cover the botioms. Strew in sugar enough to cover the potato slices, and then half a dozen bits of butter size ot filberts and one blade of mace broken up in each pie. Pour in a quarter cup of wine, or brandy and water and bake without a top crust slowly and dry. 1021—Cocoanut Macaroons. Make as at No. 457; but use desiccated coeeanut instead of almonds. When you have cake icing left over it can be used to advantage in this way. How Much to Serve. It is needless to offer Mrs. Tingee the advice to dish up light as her failing is in that direction already; I have seen Tier serve portions to her best boarders that I should consider only the scrapings of the dishes, and have seen her boarders, not caring to touch the blackened scraps of meat which she set before them for tea, make the repast of two thin slices of baker's bread and butter and a cup of weak tea with apparent content. I can only account for their staying to board at such a table by supposing that there were other reasons stronger than the love of eating which prevented them from ex- ercising a free choice and going some- where else. But in nearly all more open and public houses the failing is in quite the opposite way. To hear the waiters in many places trying to cajole or bully the cooks into dishing up two or three pounds to each person one would think their love for those they wait on is stronger than a brother's, and that their sensitiveness at the disgrace of only taking a man just what he can eat and nothing to waste ought to excite our most sympathetic con- sideration. There are young proprietors and managers, too, working for popu- larity who make mistakes in this line. It may be good policy in some circumstances to make a show of that sort of liberality which gives three times as much as the average man or woman consumes; in such a case let it be breads and vege- tables that are condemned to be thrown away, and always serve the meats small. As some have but little idea of quantities COOKING FOR PROFIT. *5* in pounds and ounces, let us observe that ten eggs are a pound and two eggs are three ounces, and enough for nearly every person. If we should set five dishes of eggs each containing two fried, it would certainly look like a profuse allowance, yet there would only be the alloted pound. Take away a dish and replace it with one of meat same weight; take away another and give potatoes or fried oysters, fish. or mush of its weight; take another and give bread, and take the fourth and bring in its place batter cakes and there is but the allotted pound of solids yet, although a good and complete meal. These things are worth considering because they are related to the difficulty there is of living in this world, for it is not what we eat but what we waste that makes board so high. A man in business ought to have tact enough to relax a rule in economy at the right time but some have not. I stopped somewhere recently where they only served one egg to a dish, with small piece of ham. I have forgotten where it was but as there is no unpleasant im- pression attached to the remembrance it must have been a good table with enough of other things, where nobody was dis- pleased, and certainly at our Summer house at Unitah Lake, where there was no stint or restraint, about half the orders that came were for one egg only, but eggs are staple and common and that does not excuse the mistake of old Mr. Stick- tite at his Union Depot Hotel at Jimson- vale with his asparagus. When the crowd of passengers looked over his bill of fare ana saw "asparagus," not printed but written in, they looked around and at each other as if to say, "What a lib- eral man," and "What an excellent din- ner we shall have." But when it was brought in, three poor little infant stalks counted without a miss to each plate the sentiment changed to a dry little laugh and all fell to finding fault in- discriminately with everything on the board. The dinner would have been well enough without the asparagus; it was not expected; why did he have it? For popularity, of course; to make ijeo- ple say he was liberal, but he failed through not giving enough; it did more harm than good. So it was at the Hotel Fantastic at Fantastic Beach, when they tried to give a high-toned Sunday dinner with larded fillet of beef and cooked one fillet, four pounds, for near a hundred people. Your guests who can afford to pay three or four dollars a day are likely to be aware of the merits of the tender- loin, at least these were, and everybody ordered it, so altogether it was shaved oft" in slices as thin as card board and all the first half were thereby made as mad as high-toned people dare to get, the other half got none at all and I don t know which end thought they were the worst treated, but probably the hotel lost custom enough to have pa.id for several fillets. If I were giving spring chicken for breakfast for the fust time in the season notwithstand- ing the two-ounce rule in all else I would give half a pound of chicken to every order, drop oft" all other kinds of meat for that meal and give the other half pound in the best of breads and sauce and trim- mings to the chicken. Dinner. August 19. Soup—Calfs head, a la Portuguaise (6 qts 48 cents.) Perch, water souchet (6 lbs gross, 48 cents.) Potatoes a la poulette. Boiled bacon and greens (16 cents.) .Roast beef (2 ribs snort, 4 lbs 52 cents.) Roast lamb, mint sauce (quarter, 7 lbs 90 cents.) Chicken giblets saute with rice (16 or- ders, 20 cents.) Lobster cutlets, a la Victoria (12 or- ders, 22 cents.) Green corn pudding (25 cents.) Sweet potatoes 20, string beans 3, tur- nips 3, squash 8, tomatoes 6, potatoes 15 (55cents.) Bciled sago pudding (with sauce 12 orders, 20 cents.} Apple pie (5 pies, 40 cents.) Lemon ice cream (3^ qts 75 cents.) Orange butter cake (2 cakes 1% lbs 21 cents.) Fruit, nuts, cheese, crackers, pickles (52 cents.) Milk, cream 60, coffee, tea, sugar, bread, butter 50 (no cents.) Total, $6 96; 50 persons; 14 cents a plate. 1022—Calf's Head Soup, Portuguaise. It is a vegetable soup with barley, and "ii SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S calf s head cut in dice in it and a small proportion of tomatoes. 1023—Perch Water Souchet. A water souchet—called "souchy" by English cooks—is fish steaks or fillets stewed in a very little water with herb seasonings and served on toast with some of the broth over the toast. Slice the fish if large or split and cut in quarters if small, lay the pieces in a bright pan with a small bunch of parsley and green thyme and two or three green onions; add salt and pepper to season, fill up with water enough just to cover the fish and stew gently at the side of the range about half an hour, skimming offthe scum that rises. Take out the herbs and onions and serve the fish from the pan on slices of buttered toast moistened with the fish liquor. or water. 'This makes a stiff sauce. Put in the lobster paste and stir all together. Season with a light grating of nutmeg, salt, cayenne and juice of half a lemon. Set it away in the refrigerator. When cold make it in small cutlet shapes, egg and bread them, fry light colored in a kettle of lard. Boil four or five eggs hard and quarter them lengthwise. Serve tomato sauce or cardinal sauce in the dish, the lobster cutlet in it, a quarter of egg and a crouton of fried bread. 1024-Potatoes a la Poulette. Parisienne potatoes in yellow sauce. Steam or boil the potatoes without break- ing. Make butter sauce, add to it the yolk of an egg, salt, white pepper and juice of half alemon. Put the potatoes in the sauce; serve with fish. 1025—Chicken Giblets Saute, with Rice. Cut the giblets in small pieces all of one size and steep in cold water. Fry a minced onion in nam or bacon fat, then Eut in the giblets and fry (saute) them rown. Put in water to nearly cover, season with powdered herbs or Worcester- shire sauce, salt and pepper, and let stew with a lid on till quite tender, then skim and thicken the sauce and serve with rice in the dish like a curry. 1026-Lobster Cutlets, a la Victoria. Take half a can of lobster and pound it to a paste. Put in a saucepan, naif a cup butter and one small cup flour and stir them over the fire and when hot and well mingled, add a cup of boiling broth 1027—Green Corn Pudding. Shaved cooked corn off the cob, or use canned corn pounded to a half- paste. To a quart add one cup milk, half a cup butter and four eggs and salt and white pepper to season. Bake in a pudding pan; serve as a vegetable entree in flat dishes. This can be made much richer if wanted so, with more milk and yolks of eggs and is a very popular dish. 1028—Boiled Sago Pudding. 4 cups milk. 2 tablespoons sugar. i cup sago. Butter size of an egg. 2 eggs or the yolks only. Boil the milk with the sugar in it, shake in the sago and keep it stirred up for a few minutes, let cook slowly with the lid on for about half an hour, set where it will not burn on bricks at back of the range. Then beat in the butter and eggs. Serve with sauce. 1029—Work and Wages. Counting up to the 13th of August we only had an average of twenty-three paying people in the house including the owner and his family. Mrs. Tingee and her two or three girls, and a boy in the yard could take care of that numbe- easily; but it has to be according to style. There is the Summerland House at Uni- tah running^ half the time with but seven- ty-five pay*n!? people and eighty-five "help." At this house we are Detween styles and have nine employes to the. average twenty-three guests, and some- COOKING FOR PROFIT. 153 times have ten. There is a fraction of a person somewhere, perhaps that is the baby, but we will not let fractions trouble us when they are but small, so of the four thousand meals consumed eleven hnndred and thirty-four have gone to the help and the twenty-three guests have to pay for them as well as the two thous- and eight hundred and ninety-eight meals for themselves, all at ten cents a meal, discarding the ninth of a cent frac- tion as usual for the sake of lucidity. Besides this comes the wages paid for carrying on the work of the place to swell the expense account to nearly donble. As most people are sensitive on the subject of the amount ot compensa- tion they can command, I will not "give away" anybody but will give the sum total for the bunch of us. There was one whom I have reason to suppose took his light employment as the price of his board during his Summer vacation, and cost the house nothing in cash; another, perhaps, had his compensation contin- gent upon the amount of the profits; two of the workers were hired by the year at country wages, and the girls who did the table waiting were at the usual house- girl prices. The cook for this short sea- son received as much pay as the chief cook at the best of the two hotels at the depot and a little more than the chief cook at Black's, which was a fancy price for this small house to pay, yet neither of those chief cooks would nave taken the situation or done the work because it is mixed, both meat and pastry, and be- cause it is mixed other ways; for there are some things which look natural enough but which it is impossible for a limited and graded, bound and restricted, enthralled and restrained cook to do. I don't know why the French cooks sim- ply say it is impos-see3ie for them to do so and that is all there is of it—as, for instance, it is quite possible for fishes to fly, I have seen them do it in the tropics, but it is impossible for the chief coolc of a full-grown hotel to clean fish, and equally impossible for his second cook to pass dirty dishes over to the next table, however much they may be in his way on his own table,—it isn't his business to gather up dishes. These impossibilities often cause em- barrassment in small houses where per- haps there is not yard-man enough to go droun, or where, it may be, there is no yard man but the proprietor or his clerk, and as they will not clean the fish for the cook and the cook cannot cook it with- out being cleaned of course there is nothing for that cook and his second to do and they step out. The small houses then hunt up a woman cook, for they are generally more pliable; they either do not know of those iron-clad rules of the kitchen, or, knowing them, with the nat- ural mulishness of woman they choose to do the other way and go right on earning the wages. There are said to be a few first-class female cooks getting as high wages as the same grade of mile cooks. Without the least intention of saying what ought to be and only stating facts the highest wages I have ever known a woman to receive for cooking in a small hotel both meat and pastry, was fifty dol- lars a month. There are thousand of them working in hotels and boarding- houses at five dollars a week, whose work is but little above common labor. There is no doubt but there is a demand for skillful, bill-of-fare, women cooks; such can always secure good situations with sufficient help at about ten dollars a week in any part of this country, board and lodging, of course, in addition. It is on that figure I will base future estimates of the cost of board in country houses. In the present instance, however, I have the actualities to draw from and find that the sum total of wages paid for the six weeks was three hundred and twelve dol- lars. 1030—Laundry Work. The washing of table cloths and nap- kins is an expense large enough to change the grade of the house that cannot afford it from the one that can; it must be paid for by the boarders and consequently af- fects the price of board. In such a house as the one we write of, however, it is not practicable to make a separate account of it. Good hotel managers expect the money earned by the laundry to pay its way and pay for the laundry work of the house; probably such was the case here and it need not affect our estimates. 1031—Fuel and Light. This item I could not get with perfect '54 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S exactness but can approximate closely. Our John has it as part cf his yearly con- tract that he shall in Winter provide twenty cords of wood for the Summer business. He claims that he had this Spring twenty-two cords, and having but seven cords left we must have used fifteen cords in six weeks. That includes the laundry and dining-room fires, and allow- ance has to be made for the wood being at least half of it dry and decaying bass- wood that burns away like paper. Of such wood in six weeks we may have burned enough in the kitchen to be equivalent to eight cords of sound wood worth in the country three dollars a cord or twenty-four dollars. The house has consumed twenty-five gallons of coal oil of which the dining- room and kitchen cannot have used more than io, or $2 worth. 1032-lce. Mr. Farewell has contract with-one of the neighbors, by which he hauls all the ice he needs for the season from said neighbor's ice-house for a compensation of $15. All the ice used for freezing creams has been allowed for in counting cost; for this portion of the season allow for ice otherwise used $10. 1033—Total Cost of Board. Provisions for 23 boarders 42 days $290.70 Wages of employes 6 weeks 312.00 Provisions for employes 42 days n3.67 Fuel, light, ice 36.00 Total $752.37 This is within a fraction of 26 cents a meal for the paying people and is $5.45 a week each as the actual cost of first- class board and middle-class table ser- vice. 1034—How Much Profit? This house charges $10 a week for board and lodging, transient meals are 50 cents and therefore average half profit, while there is a margin on regular board- ers of $4.55 a week each and a total of $627.63 for the six weeks, or over $100 a week out of which to pay the bed rooms and rent, the laundry and chamber work having already been paid for in this estimate, which includes the help em- ployed. The latter part of the season is the best; there are now in the house 40 boarders to n "help," yielding a profit of $182 a week. If a man can have a season of only 10 weeks at that average and these prices he makes $1,820 out of a small house; a sum large enough to tempt many to try the business. The owner of the place and his family are properly counted as boarders in every calculation of expense, having placed the manager and housekeeper in position to relieve them from any active participation. If the manager and housekeeper were to get married and, with this book for their guide, were to become the landlord and landlady of the house they would have a still better rate of profit to expect than the figures above, for they would have in addition the salaries which they now enjoy, to go a long way towards paying their rent. The cost of sleeping people consists chiefly in the laundry work involved in changing the bedding after every sleeper. Two sheets, a pillow slip and one or two towels are expected to be washed after every departure, which, put out at schedule rates would cost 35 cents for a bed that only yielded 50 cents. For regular boarders the changes are made only twice or it may be once a week ex- cept towels, and reason is found in that for making a difference in rates for regu- lar and transient. The cost of laundry work has also to be reduced to the smallest sum by having it done at home. Dinner. August 20. Soup—Corn and tomato (7 qts 40 cents.) Halibut, Maryland style (4 lbs 50, trim- mings 20, 70 cents.) Fried hominy. Boiled chicken with salt pork (5 /owls 1 25, pork 12, and sauce 140 cents.) Roast beef (3 ribs short, 7 lbsoo cents.) Lyonaise of liver with fried crusts (10 orders, 12 cents.) Queen fritters, vanilla sauce (65 cents.) Browned sweet potatoes 25, lima beans 6, corn 10, cabbage 6, potatoes 13 (60 COOKING FOR PROFIT. '55 ents.) English suet pudding (29 cents.) Peach pie (5 pies, 40 cents.) Blackberry meringue (55 cents.) Apples, nuts, raisins, cheese, condi- ments (54 cents.) Milk, cream 66, coffee, tea, sugar, bread, butter 52 (n8 cents.) Total, $7 73; 54 persons; 14H cents a plate. 1035 -Corn and Tomato Soup. One quart green corn cut off the cob, one quart tomatoes chopped small, one pint mi::ed vegetables cut small in five quarts seasoned soup stock. Boil up and season to taste. 1036 -Halibut, Maryland Style. Halibut steak cut thin, breaded in corn meal and fried in a small quantity of salt pork fat—not immersed but in a frying pan and turned over to brown. Serve a slice of the dry fried salt pork on top of the fish and a thin slice of fried hominy in a separate dish. 1037—Fried Hominy. Fine hominy made into mush same as oatmeal. Cut thin slices when cold, divide them in diamond shapes, flour on both sides and fry light colored. Serve with fish and chicken. 1033—Boiled Chicken with Salt Pork. Boil 5 fowls, time according to age, and a pound of salt pork with them, and make a cream sauce. Serve a joint of fowl with sauce poured over and a small slice of streaked pork by way of garnish. 1039-Lyonaise of Liver with Fried Crusts. It is liver and onions in brown sauce. Fry a cupful or more of chopped onions, green ones are preferable, in roast meat tat and throw in the liver cut in small blocks; cover with a lid and let them simmer together half an hour. Pour off the grease, shake a basting spoon of flour into the pan and stir until the liver is coated with it; pour in soup stock or water barely to cover; salt and pepper, and let stew half an hour longer. Border the dishes with minced eggs and parsley or croutons or potato balls. 1040— Browned Sweet Potatoes. Boil or steam first, and then brown in the oven; dredge salt and baste with butter or drippings. 1041—How Many Cooks to How Many People? My second used to do up her hair one day with blue ribbon and the next day with pink, in the old happy days five or six weeks ago when there was nobody in the house, and singing began and ended the day; now the boat boy never comes to turn the ice cream freezer; nobody has time to help her and she wears no more ribbons; she has soured on the work and gets mad if I call her "sec." All hotel hands are working under a heavy pressure now, at the busiest time of all; there is no getting help when every hand is already at work that can be found. At various times it has fallen to me to take charge of a kitchen for a fixed sum and pay all the other hands myself, when the fewer I had to help me the more money I had left. For such times I had a rule formulated that 1 cook and 1 helper are required for 25 peo- ple, and 1 more for every 25 additional, and at this late day I find no reason to change the estimate. This has reference only to the work of hotels or houses where regular meals are prepared after the style ofthese present. # There are places where one man will go into the woods and cook for a hundred wood-choppers or saw-mill hands, and carry his water and split his wood besides, but there is little in that for a comparison. It is the commonest possible mistake to suppose that because there are few people there is but little work; it is the number of dishes made and not the number of people that makes /y<5 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S the work. It does not take much longer to make 2 gallons of soup than 1. IT I have 5 sauces to make it is immaterial in point of time whether they be 5 cups or k quarts. Where the number of people does make a difference is in the duration of meals, breakfast encroaching upon dinner and giving no time to the one cook to begin his preparations at the proper season for the next meal, then another has to take hold of the lag^ ging breakfast orders and give him his opportunity. The time when the pay- master reaps a temporary advantage is when the 25 gradually swell to 40. There is a disinclination to take on another cook or helper, the 2 are in harness and are making the work go on, in part from the force of habit, but it is on a strain and by neglecting the small niceties, by failing to clean up, and by letting things go withount the finishing strokes. It will be found a good rule to count by, that 2 skilled cooks and a pan-washer helper are required to cook for 50. Dinner. August 31. Soup—Puree a la Crecy (6 qts 36 cents.) Salt mackerel, mustard sauce (4 fish and sauce, 24 cents.) Potatoes a naturel. Chicken, a la Bechamel (5 fowls and sauce, 130 cents.) Roast Deef (rib ends 5 lbs 45 cents.) Stuffed shoulder mutton (4 lbs 50 cents.) Curry of veal, a la Calcutta (10 orders, 1 lb and trimmings, 23 cents.) Macaroni, a la Creole (20 orders, 20 cents.) Fried egg plant 15, turnips 4, corn 10, squash 8, potatoes 12 (40 cents.) Astor House pudding (No. 594 doubled; 24 orders, 28 cents.) Covered lemon pie (5 large, thin, 35 cents.) Frozen buttermilk (5 qts frozen, 25 cents.) Fruit cake, jelly cake (2 lbs 20 cents.) Peaches, nuts, cheese, crackers, condi- ments (50 cents.) Milk, cream 50, coffee, tea, sugar, butter, bread 48 (98 cents.) Total, $6 3^; 49 persons; 13 cents a plate. 1042—Puree a la Crecy, or Carrot Soup. Crecy, an old French battlefield, after- wards turned into market gardens be- came noted again for the production of the carrot, a vegetable more highly val- ued before the introduction of the beet than it is now, but still one of the main- stays of the French cook. So persistently do these old names cling that but recently a cook contributing a receipt to a New York journal, told his readers to take some Crecy carrots and do thus and so. It is to be hoped they got some. To make the soup, take soup stock and boil carrots and corned beef in it and a few other soup vegetables for seasoning. Take out the meat and pass the carrots alqn'4 with the stock through a seive. Skim well, add a small amount of flour or starch thickening to keep the puree (pulp) from settling to the bottom; sea- son and serve like T>ean soup, with crusts in the plate. 1043—Salt Mackerel Boiled. There is as much difference between mackerel boiled soft and boiled hard as between eggs similarly cooked. If you would have mackerel tender, as well as of good celor, put it on to cook in cold water and take it off as soon as it begins to boil. It is best if it can be cooked to order, or only as wanted, as it becomes hard and curls out of shape with stand- ing long in the water. Mackerel looks best if cut across, not lengthwise, each fish making three portions. Dish the skin side up and a spoonful of melted butter over it. Mackerel put in water to freshen wil\ hardly keep sweet twelve hours unless ice water be used or the vessel set in the refrigerator. It should remain in water at least twenty-four hours, and be changed once or twice. After that if any are wanted to broil, they should be hung up to dry one meal ahead. 1044 -Salt Mackerel Broiled. Divide the fish lengthwise, and if of COOKING FOR PROFIT. r<7 the largest size, again into quarters. Broil over clear coals, or toast before the fire in the hinged wire broiler, browning the inside first. Serve the brown skin side uppermost, with a spoonful of melted butter poured over. It should cook in five minutes. 1045—Mustard Sauce. Make butter sauce, and mix with ti made mustard enough to give it a pale yellow color, then let boil up again for a moment to thicken, but not to separate the butter. 1046—Potatoes, au Naturel. Means that they are plain. New pota- toes with the skins on, should be steamed and served in a dish separate from the fish. 1047—Chicken, a la Bechamel. Chickens with cream sauce. Boil the fowls in salted water or broth, and take some of the broth, strain through a nap- kin, boil, and thicken with flour, then beat in butter and add cream or rich milk and strain again. 1048—Curry r.f Veal, a la Calcutta. The specialty of the style is the putting grated cocoanut in the stew; and yet, perhaps, there will be some to say that it is no specialty, but common to all cur- ries if properly made. There is an old sea steward settled down in that haven of rest for old salts, Nipantuck Island, who .will talk by the hour about the East Indies and, as he expresses it, there they curry everything and put cocoanut and cocoanut milk in everything. Pour a little oil or butter into a saucepan, throw in a minced onion, cut any pieces of veal you may have that will not make roast or cutlets into small pieces of one size, put them in with the onion, cover with a lid and let stew in that way with- out water until the meat begins to brown. To a pound of meat allow about a tea- spoonful of curry powder; shake it about in the stew, then put in water to barely cover and cook half an hour longer. Skim off the grease from one side. Add a heaping tablespoon of grated cocoanut, some salt and pepper, cook a few min- utes. Serve with plain rice at one end of the dish or as a border. 1049—Macaroni, a la Creole. Cook y2 pound of macaroni, cat it in short pieces, fry a little garlic and onion in oil, throw in a minced red pepper, add a pint of tomato sauce, put in the cooked macaroni and shake up. 1050—Egg Plant Breaded and Fried. See directions at No. 125. Besides that egg-plant can be breaded in egg and cracker dust, and fried by immersion. It is not absolutely necessary to parboil the vegetable, and in places where they are short of help they fry it without that preparation. 1051—Frozen Buttermilk. A grateful change from ice cream in hot weather. Put buttermilk in the freezer without any addition and freeze with rapid turning to make it foamy, but it should not be frozen solid. I have had to add sugar before freezing in some places to suit peculiar people, but think it spoils the buttermilk. It is a matter of taste, however. 1052—Boarding the Employes. In all the preceding estimates and in all the bills of fare the provisions for the help have been counted the same as for the guests and meals charged at the same cost, but the same has not been done in regard to table service and other expenses. This seems the sound way to count the expense: when the bills are to be paid to the butcher and grocer it makes no sort of difference bv whom the goods have been consumed. It is but a self-decep- tion for any keeper or manager of a resort hotel to suppose that his help is costing less—speaking of the gross cost of pro- 158 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S visions—than his paying guests by the meal or in the aggregate. They eat the same food with the difference that they do not have such a free choice as the guests. They eat what is left over, but not the refuse, only that which the cooks prepare in excess of the demands of the dining room. Of the three classes con- stituting the community of a large hotel the officers^eating at a separate table in a separate dining room are likely to fare the worst as, if the bill of fare allotted them be not satisfactory they have not the opportunities for something supplemen- tary which others below them enjoy. In a large hotel the early breakfast for the help consists in part of the surplus left from the last nights dinner with enough of fried fresh meat and boiled potatoes to make up the needed quantity; their dinner will consist in part of stews and broiled meats and fish from the dining room breakfast increased as before by broiled or roast second-rate cuts of meat and soup and a cheap pudding. Allow that sucn a house is well-filled with guests and there is little left; or that the cook is one of the few that can estimate closely how much to cook and the board of the help may cost somewhat less than that of the guests, still the chances are against it, while in a small house the opportunities are such that there is no room for the supposition of a difference unless it be in the helps' favor. In the house of which I write, I have made use of the help to make a clean sweep of every meal, other- wise there must have been more to throw away and the estimates could not have been so close nor the meals at once so profuse and so cheap. For here as in all small houses the help, what few there are, take their meals immediately after the guests. There is no re-warming pro- visions from a previous meal, it would be unless, not one of them would even look at them, but if I have broiled 12 beef- steaks and only 8 have been taken in, the help will take the 4. If the guests have taken to corn bread this meal and left the rolls the help will eat rolls; if the guests have taker, a notion all to eat baked potatoes then the help will take the fried potatoes that are left or the oatmeal or batter cakes and if, as is more likely than all there is nothing whatever left and we are glad to see it so, then we will fry a few eggs. After dinner the cook takes a little survey and puts away the solid meats either for slicing for supper or ra-roasting; reserves the canned corn and peas, the tapioca pudding if enough for fritters next day, the joints of chicken that will make patties or cro- quettes or soup, but leaves on the board trie mutton, a ia Bretonne, the baked beans, the stuffed shoulder of mutton, the haricot, the collops of beef with tomatoes, the stews in general, the maca- roni a la Creole, whatever of the sort ma_y unfortunately have been too much, or if none of these, the help will make a good dinner of soup and fish and clean up the pans. With this in view all our dinners are planned with a cheap meat dish. The guests will eat the Spring lamb and chicken clean and ask at supper if there is any left cold, then the help come in for the beef a la mode Pariseinne, and live high too. If they do not have first choice then they get even between meals by dri/tdng iced milk while the guests are obligedTto get along with iced water. Of course we are all honest; would not take a feather's weight out of the house, will not even eat a meal after we are paid off; yet when we are handling the best there is in the house it is but a short dis- tance from one's hand to one's mouth; and does not the cook himself know where the tenderloin steaks are to be found? Look at his rotund form. 1053 -Boarding Children Growing boys and girls consume at least as much food as adults, perhaps more. If there is any difference to be made in regard to children it must be for those of too tender age to come to table. Hotels generally charge full price for children occupying seats at the first table, that is, children who take the nap- kins, the clean silver, goblets of ice water, the newly filled cruets, the dishes of olives and sardines, the waiter's time at the busy hour; they are charged for all the extras that make meals expensive; as for the amount of food they consume it is but of secondary importance, but it is the same as the adults require. It is often the case that the baskets of fruit and nuts, cakes and candies are untouched during the whole dinner until the cbil- COOKING FOR PROFIT. '59 drcn come; the grown people have enough without, but the children will make a clean sweep and carry off what they cannot eat; then it is the children who make the heaviest drafts upon the cans of milk and cream and that, too, between meals. It is good for them and all right, but it ought to be counted at full price if you are going into the busi- ness of boarding children on a first-class scale. Dinner. August 22. Soup—Chicken gumbo (i chicken 25, okra 25, 7 qts 70 cents.) Red snapper, a la Palatka (7 lbs and trimmings, 100 cents.) Sweet potatoes fried (12 cents.) Bacon and cabbage (10 cents.) Roast beef (flank 4 lbs 48 cents.) Roast chicken, puree de marrons (8 chickens and trimmings, 220 cents.) Beef and green peas, a la Turgee (2 lbs meat 22, peas 10, 32 cents.) Baked beans and pork (20 cents.) Green com 20, tomatoes 8, squash 6, beets 4, potatoesio (48 cents.) Spanish puff fritters (No. 155 trebled; saga red, 40 orders, 45 cents.) Baked apple dumplings (30 orders, 50 cents.) Frozen buttermilk 6 qts frozen, 30 cents.) Arabian cake (2^ lbs 25 cents.) Apples, peaches (25 cents.) Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, pickles, condiments (56 cents.) Milk 36, cream 30, butter 20, bread 12, coffee, tea, sugar 20 U18 cents.) Total, $9 09; 56 persons; i6# cents a plate. 1054—Chicken Gumbo Soup. The several sorts of gumbo soup are all named so from being made with okra pods, called gumbo in the South, and used both green and in a dried and pow- dered state called gumbo file. This green powder, a few bay leaves and bundles of sassafras root are offered for sale by Indians in the New Orleans mar- kets and seems to constitute their entire stock in trade. Okra or gumbo, is of too mucilaginous a nature to meet with much favor at the North. It can be bought in cans like everything else. Take one fowl, which you can chop into 18 pieces, and an equal amount of veal cut in similar pieces and fry (saute) them m the usual Creole way with oil or clear butter, with a large minced onion and a leak and piece of carrot and turnip cut in dice, and if you use green okra from the garden slice the pods crosswise and let simmer with the meat. When the contents of the saucepan begin to brown add 4 or s quarts of soup stock. If canned okra be used, fry the chicken and veal first then put in 1 or 2 cans and fill up with stock; the okra thickens the soup and the amount to be used is optional. Tie up bouquet of herb, thyme, pars- ley, one bay leaf and 6 or 8 cloves—and drop it in the soup, also a pod of red pepper minced, and salt sufficient. Boil until the pieces of chicken are tender, take out the bunch of herbs; have a small saucepan of boiled rice ready at hand, serve a spoonful of rice in each plate and fill up with soup. 1055-Red Snapper, a la Palatka First make a sauce of the head of the fish, then bake the sliced fish in it. It is a court-bouillon without wine. Split the head, put it to boil in 3 or 4 pints of water with a few green onions cut small and a pod of red pepper. When it has boiled a short time stir it about until it falls to pieces, making the liquor thick like soup. Lay the slices in a buttered pan strewed with finely minced shalots, dredge salt, scatter chopped parsley over; strain the fish sauce into the pan, bake until it is half evaporated and serve the remainder as sauce with each slice. 1056—Fried Sweet Potatoes. They can be fried raw, or Steamed and then sliced raw and fried; are good either way if carefully cooked in lard not too hct, but a little better if cooked be- fore frying. Cut them in slices an eighth of an inch thick and full size of the potato. Serve with fish or as a vegetable. iCo SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 1057—Roast Chicken, Puree de Mar- ront. The words mean chicken stuffed with chestnuts—mashed chestnuts—the dish in reality is chicken stuffed with sweet potatoes. Good sweet potatoes are very much like chestnuts in taste. Mash and season well with butter and salt and pepper, stuff the fowls not too solid and roast as usual. 1058—Beef an l Green Peas, a a Turque. Take any small pieces of beef such as the ends of porter-house steaks, or the shoulder cap, cut all to one size, put them in a saucepan with fat or butter enough to grease the bottom, and a chop- ped onion, sprig of thyme and parsley: let it fry a while without any water and stir frequently. When it begins to color, add water to barely cover and a pint of green peas to every pound of meat, btew together until the meat is tender; season with salt and pepper. It will be sufficiently thickened and will be light- brown. Serve in flat dishes and garnish with fried crusts cut in crescents, dipped in bright gravy and sprinkled with minced yolk of eggs. 1059—Arabian Cake—Biscoscha. There are several grades and varieties of sponge cake to be found in this book, all good in their place, yet the one I used to regard the chief and is so put forward in the American Pastry Cook had nearly been set aside here because the boys regard it as laborious and some- times fail with it in warm weather, until on a recent occasion I found at an "Ori- ental Cafe"—the Turks who kept the in- stitution were making a specialty of "Arabian cake," selling considerable quantities to the curious passers-by and kept a Turkish woman cook (young, and a real Zuleika, by the way) busy all day making and baking it. As I carry with me the "Open Sesame!" to all the kitchens in the land, I proceeded to in- vestigate and found it to be neither more nor less except the substitution of starch for flour, than our old favorite Savoy cake—fine sponge cake made by beating the eggs and sugar together without separating the whites and yolks, the way alluded to at Nos. 279 and 280 and the note. These Turks beat the mixture about an hour, but in rather a sleepy sort of way and with frequent relays, for Ali, Arabi and Raphael all had to come in turn and work till their oriental arms gave out. Some who read this will be in- terested in the fact that this notable cook from Constantinople made them always stir the cake one way just like American home folks do. This is the cake: 1 pound fine granulated sugar (light weight.) 12 eggs. \i pound of starch (or flour if for Savoy cake.) Vanilla to flavor. Have everything cold to begin with; Eut the eggs and sugar together in a deep owl or round-bottomed pan or candy kettle, and beat vigorously with a bunch of wire half an hour by the clock. It should by that time be twice or thrice the volume it was at the beginning. Add flavoring and the flour or starch. Do not beat after that is in but stir around only enough to fairly mix it out of sight. Bake in a deep turban-shaped mold, slightly oiled before the cake is put in. A large cake of this sort will gen- erally be done in half an hour. Our Turkish woman carried a long straw in her eai—just where a bookkeeper carries his pen—to try her cakes with. 1060— Meals fo: Ten or Fifteen Cents. If it be true, as our figures seem to prove, that a pound of food and a pint of drink are the average requirements for a full meal, then if an eating-house keeper offering meals for 10 cents could induce his customers to take a pound of bread, 3 cents, a pound of potatoes, 1 cent, a pound of mush, r cent and 3 cups of milk, 3 cents, for the three meals of one day his outlay would be 8 cents and his profit 22 cents; whereas if he should give a pound of meat, 10 cents, a pound of pie, 10 cents and a pound of syrup, but- er and batter cakes on one plate 10 cents, for the three meals of one day, he would have furnished no more than the average man could eat, would not have COOKING FOR PROFIT. i6t given a full meal and yet would have nothing left for profit. It is by striking a medium between these and not neces- sarily by using stuff that is unfit to eat that some men manage in every large city to sell meals for 10 cents and make a profit. "Steak, bread, butter and potatoes, 10 cents," is what the sign boards announce. A pound of 8-cent meat, a pound of potatoes, i cent, a pound of bread, 3 cents—3 pounds for the three meals of one day costing 12 cents out of 30—add 3 pats of butter % ounce each—the regular restaurant size —3 cents more, and the eating-house keeper gives 15 cents and receives 30 cents, serves 300 meals a day and has 15 dollars a day margin out of which to pay his help, rent and wear and tear, etc., could afford even to add 3 cups of coffee to his sign-board inducements, while those who offer meals at 15 cents might afford to set a sumptuous table. There are hundreds of such places in operation: we are only seeking to know how they can do as they do. San Francisco, years ago, was talked about the world over as much on account of her having houses where a good meal could be obtained for 15 cents as for being the chief city of the Golden State. 1061—Country Boa d at Five Dollars. It was mentioned incidentally at the beginning of this bcok that Mrs. Tingee keeps boarders at $3.50 a week, having lately had to make a reduction from her former price of $4, to meet the demands of her boarders and the stringency of the times. Let us see how she does it. Our emals in this small country house up to the 12th of August, counting the small family meals at 5 or 6 cents each person and the more profuse hotel dinners at from 10 to 16 cents, averaged 10 cents each meal each person. Suppose Mrs. Tingee allows her meals to cost 10 cents, either through allowing some things to go to waste, or through want of skill to make good dishes out of cheap material.;, or through depending too much on meat and butter to make up her table, then her boarders cost her $2.10 a week each and she has $1.40 each as a margin to meet her .other expenses and pay herself; if she has 20 day boarders that leaves her $28 a week. She will do most of the cooking herself; she has 2 girls, and a boy in the yard, whose wages average $2 a week each, and their meals $2 a week more, making $12, leaving $16 a week for Mrs. Tingee, but out ofthat she must pay about $4 for fuel, light, ice and incidentals, and she has for herself about $50 a month. Now, she has house rent to pay and the house she occupies costs her $30 a month but it does not properly come within our scope, as her business is in taking day boarders and letting out rooms enough to pay the rent of the whole house. The only time that she needs and seeks a sympathizing ear is when a young couple or two gentlemen who have been paying a good price for her two best rooms nave moved out and left her in fear of having little or no rent coming in. So that, if she sets as good a table as we have been setting here and keeps her 20 boarders she still is able to appear very respectably and send her two children to a good school. In reality, however, Mrs. Tingee does not set any such table. If she would she could set such meals as we have shown in the divisions of this book before the first birthday supper at an average cost of about 7 cents a plate, and, giving a sufficiency, 'could keep her full quota of 20 boarders. There is a defect in her method, however, which never allows heir full success or a full house, for while a pound of food and a pint of drink are required on an average to make a full meal, Mrs. Tingee devotes her ingenuities to make her boarders get along with half a pound, and regards three-quarters as a piece of extravagance only to be indulged in on Sundays. In consequence her boarders, not being well fed, piece out by buying apples, peanuts, candy, cakes and beer, and find when they count up at the end of the week that this sort of desultory boarding around has cost them more than it would to board at a good hotel, and all who are not bound in some way, leave her and she has but 10 whom she can depend on to stay and a transient customer now and then. She does not allow the provisions for these to cost more than 5 cents a meal, 15 cents a day; $1.05 a week, or $10.50 a week total, for which at $3.50 each she re- ceives $35. This leaves her $24.50 in- stead of $28 as under the other calcula- tion and as tne work is less it is a greater proportionate profit. The great diffci- COOKING FOR PROFIT. 165 plate. 1068—Tapioca Cream Soup. Take 3 quarts soup stock and 3 quarts milk, make a white roux to thicken it by simmering a slice of ham in 4 ounces butter and stirring in a cup of flour and add soup to the roux until it is thick sauce; let boil, then strain back into the soup. Put in a small blade of mace, a cupful of minced onion, a cup of turnip and carrot in the smallest dice and small cup of crushed tapioca. Boil slowly un- til the tapioca grains are transparent and stir in a spoonful of chopped parsley, with salt and white pepper. 1069—Fillets of Fish, a la Norman- die. Cut the fish in thin fillets size of two fingers, double them and place in close order in a baking dish. Prepare mashed potatoes with yolk of egg mixed in as for croquettes and place a border of it round the edge of the dish. Take the bones of the fish and stew them in water with onion, parsley, thyme, pepper and salt, making a fish stew or sauce, strain it off and use it to make an oyster stew, into which throw a few shrimps, crayfish, lobster pieces, scallops, mussels and button musnrooms, all or part as may be available. Pour this matelotte or fish stew over the fillets, add a cup of white wine, dredge fine bread crumbs and put the dish in the oven to bake. Serve one fillet, the sauce that belongs and some of the potato border in the same plate. The name has reference to the sea-coast customs of Normandy. 1070—Roast Ham, Champagne Sauce. Boil a piece of ham, the thick end, and when nearly done put it in the oven to finish and acquire a brown outside. Slice thin, serve sauce under in the dish. 1071—Champagne Sauce. It is little more than a name for a brown sauce flavored. Take good gravy from the veal or beef pans (No. 576). Put on a spoonful of spices—allspice, cloves and mace—to boil in Y? cup of wine and strain it presently into the gravy. Another way that seems to meet the requirement of a good sauce for roast ham, is to add wine and a little sugar to the brown sauce without the spices. The substitute where there is no wine furnished is vinegar, sugar and water in brown sauce—it is good—nothing wrong about it but the name. 1072—Sirloin of Beef, a la Hongroise. That is nothing but a name for you to attach to any piece of warmed-over beef on a day when the dinner is such that you know nobody will order beef. _ Some- times you can call it a la Demidoff, or Malakoff, or Marco Bozarris or anything: the people will go on ordering pig and paraire chicken with unswerving con- stancy, just the same. 1073—Roast Prairie Chickens. Singe them, wipe clean inside and out, skewer through the thighs and body, or else tie the legs in place, put in a salted pan with drippings; roast late and have tnem come out only just done through. Each one makes 5 dishes by slicing a little off the breast which is the meatiest part, and making 4 quarters be- sides. Serve with jelly or cranberry sauce or game sauce which is cheaper. 1074-Game Sauce. Take two-thirds brown sauce and one- third currant jelly or grape jelly, throw in 6 or 8 cloves and simmer together a few minutes. 1075—Kohl-rabi, or Cabbage Turnip. It is the light green above-ground tur- nip or swelled cabbage stalk seen in the markets but not in common use. Pare, cut in large dice, boil as you would tur- nips and season in the same manner by pouring a .vhite sauce over after straining COOKING FOR PROFIT. i67 Dinner. August 25. Soup—Bisque of lobster (6 qts 48 cents.) Baked carp, tomato sauce (4 lbs and sauce, 50 cents.) Boiled ham with Brussells sprouts (25 cents.) Roast loin of beef (2 lbs 35 cents.) Braised young pig, a la Francaise (7 lbs and sauce, 155 cents.) _ Salmi of grouse with olives (6 grouse and sauce, 130 cents.) Egg-plant stew, a la Turque (16 orders, 32 cents.) Compote of bananas with rice (18 bananas 36 orders, 40 cents.) Pried cabbage 6, baked pumpkin 8, tomatoes 8, corn 10, beet: 4, potatoes 8 (44 cents.) Baked barley pudding (28 cents.) Peach meringue (like No. 195; 43 cents.) Best sponge cake (No. 1091; 25 cents.) Plums, apples, nuts, raisins, cheese, etc. (44 cents.) Miik, cream, coffee, tea, butter, etc. t&icents.) Total, $7 83546 persons; 17 cents a plate. This morning took place the first break of Summer boarders for their homes; nine went away before dinner; going to prepare their children for school for Sep- tember. 1081—Bisque of Lobster. Bisque is paste; bisque soups are soups thickened with a paste or puree or pulp of fish or game, as bisque ice creams are creams thickened with pulp of fruit or nuts. Selected small pieces of the meat are put in at least as a sign of what the soup is made. Take 6 quarts of soup stock, and boil in it the bones or part of a fish, or per- haps the remains of yesterday's matelotte. Take out half of it and made into butter sauce. Pound a can of lobster to a pnste, and mix the butter sauce with it and pass through a seive; strain the rest of the soup stock and mix both portions to- gether. A cupful or two of selected red meat of lobster may be added, and sprink- ling of parsley, salt and cayenne. 1082—Baked Carp, Tomato Sauce. Put the fish in a baking pan without splitting open, with salt and butter or drippings, and bake half an hour. Pour a quart of strained tomatoes into the pan, add an onion and pepper, and bake hall an hour longer. Serve by spoonfuls with sauce. 1083—Brussells Sprouts. They are a small species of cabbage about the size of apples, that grow in rows on a tall stem. All dishes in European cookery that are a la Flamande are with Brussells sprouts. They are met with in only a few localities in this country. Cook and season the same as cabbage or orther greens. 1084—Sucking Pig, a la Francaise. To make the stuffing; fry a minced onion in some fat, throw in a spoonful of sage, then a quantity of finely minced bread crumbs and ladleful of broth to moisten. Stir around in the frying pan until well mingled, season with salt and pepper, stuff the pig with it and roast it in the oven. When barely done, take the pig and cut it in pieces of the right size to serve, put them in a broad sauce- pan and pour in Spanish sauce to nearly cover, put a lid on and let stew slowly. Make up the stuffing from the coolced pig into small balls, bread and fry them; serve one such forcemeat ball in each dish with the meat and sauce. 1085—Salmi of Grouse with Olives. Roast the birds rare done, cool off, cut in pieces ready to serve. Make some Spanish sauce hot, add wine and cayenne, put in the cut birds and a cup of olives stoned and sliced. Serve with crouton ornaments. i68 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S 1086—Egg-Plant Stew, a la Turque. Take rough small pieces of beef or the rib ends and cut to one size, put them to stew in water. Choose small egg-plants, the seeds not very distinct, pare and cut up in pieces like apple quarters, and put thein with the meat. Add a large onion and two or three tomatoes, salt and pep- per. Let stew with a lid on until the meat is tender and the liquor is nearly all boiled out, and the remainder is thick- ened with the vegetables. It is a sort of gumbo, worth trying a few times. 1087—Compote of Banams, a la Richelieu. Make a syrup pudding sauce: cut ba- nanas in halves, put them in the sauce and let be parboiled in it, but not cooked too soft. Make a bed of sweetened rice in the dish, place bananas on the top and sauce. 1088-Fried Cabbage. Chop, season and saute in a frying pan. A good way to dispose of cabbage left over. 1089—Baked Barley Pudding. Have the barley thoroughly well boiled then use it to make puddings by the same receipts as cracked wheat. 1090—Best Sponge or Savoy Cake. Make the cake mixture No. 4; and bake in molds instead of small shapes. May be flavored with lemon rind for lemon Savoy cake. 1091—How Many Fires?—Agiin. The one large stove has proved suffi- cient in all but one particular—we could not fill toast orders with it. If there had been another fire however small there would have been nothing more to be de- sired. Fortunately as there were no breakfast or supper bills of fare to remind them of "dry, dipped, buttered and milk toast" the boarders seldom remembered to want them, and then if the stove was crowded full with cake griddle, soup pots and broiling meats we had to take the toast to the laundry stove. They have a portable sort of charcoal stove in the South that would be a boon to all the resort houses elsewhere—a stone pail with a second bottom perforated for draft, put a coal of fire in and fill up the pail with charcoal, and you have the best of fires for broiling, toasting or keeping a boiler on, and one easily started and easily dropped when not wanted. Nine- tenths of all the French market cooking at New Orleans is done on these charcoal burners. That includes the complete work of many restaurants. Whosever buys a stove such as our number 16,8 holes, should be advised to take that kind, the old pattern, and not to be induced to get themselves into trouble with a pretty range with doors and closets, shelves and hangers, but no room hardly to cook for a family. If you have a stove that is all top and oven with a good front ash pan to broil over.you may hang a boiling pot upon the very edge and it will keep on stewing just as gently as you want it, and you need not clear off everything and stop everything from cook- ing in order to get the cake griddle over the only hot place as is the case with a so-called range. If good and complete bill-of-fare din- ners for 50, rolls and bread baking and all can be done on one good stove is it not like taking^ a steam hammer to drive a nail to furnish a house like the Sum- medand House at Unitah City, that rarely has more than 75 boarders with: A 3 oven and 3 fire range. Two charcoal broilers for steaks and fish. Two steam jackets for boiling meat and vegetables. A brick oven. A hard coal batter cake range. A hard roal toast range. A steam closet for steaming puddings. A steam stock boiler. A steam boiler for cooking eggs. A steam carving table. Steam coffee and tea urns. COOKING FOR PROFIT. i6g A steam "bammeree." Steam closets for warming dishes and breads. A steam engine and 2 engineers. Eighty-five nelp to seventy-five quests. A money-losing capacity second to no hotel of its size in the land. August 26. 1092—A Rich Fruit Cake for the Landlady. This is an English wedding cake of equal quality with the black cake of the second birthday supper and the bride's cake of the wedding breakfast, but all three are different, 1 pound sugar. 1% pounds butter. 10 eggs. VA pounds flour. Mix the above like pound cake, then add: 1j4 pounds seedless raisins. 1 y2 pounds currants. 1 pound citron. 8 ounces almonds, blanched. 1 tablespoon mixed ground spices. Half pint of brandy. 1 lemon, juice and grated rind. Bake in molds lined with buttered paper. Takes from 1 to 2 hours accord- ing to depth. This cake cannot be cut while fresh without crumbling, but be- comes moister and firm with a few days' keeping. Cost: 9 pounds $1 60, or 18 cents a pound; with 3 pounds frosting added $1 90, or 16 cents a pound. [End of the August 27. 1093—Tomato Catsup for the Land- lady. Known to be good. y2 bushel tomatoes. 3 ounces allspice. 2 ounces cloves. 1 ounce cayenne. 1 tablespoon black pepper. 1 cup salt. 2 heads garlic. 2 large onions. 1 quart vinegar. Take ripe tomatoes slice them up, take out bad spots but not peel them, boil on stone until soft and then strain through a seive. Tie the spices in a piece of thin muslin. Put them in and the remaining ingredients and boil 3 hours or longer, if not thick enough. Use whole spices; keep the catsup in glass, bottles or jars sealed tight. 1094—Chili Sauce for the Landlady: Known to be good. 24 large ripe tomatoes. 6 green peppers. 4 large onions. 3 tablespoons salt. 8 tablespoons brown sugar. 6 teacups vinegar. Chop the peppers and onions very fine. Peel the tomatoes and cut up very small Put all into a kettle and boil gently an hour. Keep in glass jars well sealed. Eight Weeks.] {Continued from page 166.) and I went behind a door to watch what she would do. Of course she would not touch them, only walked around the table and viewed them on both sides; nothing further took place that evening. I know the female mind is quick to act, but there was a problem that seemed too much for her, and took all night to consider. But it was all right next morning, for she took a stick and raked them into a gallon apple can, put in a small lump of concentrated lye, filled up with soap suds and let them stew for hours, though I had not a thing but old newspapers to use in the mean- time, and every day of the eight weeks since, immediately after dinner that dear girl has put those towels through the same course of treat- ment, left them stewing all the after- noon and I suppose has washed them out besides, but does it so quickly I have never witnessed the operation; and now if it were not for the burned places the same three towels hanging there are white enough and good enough to begin another campaign. COOKING FOR PROFIT. 171 point and there were parties singing on the water the same as during the moonlight nights of last week, and at last commencing on the other shore and coming nearer I heard the fa- miliar sound of "Ja, wir sammeln uns am Strome," And seeing that the promised visit was to take place I threw some oil on a pile of dry leaves and made a fire at the water's edge to guide them. It was John bringing a letter from Mr. Farewell, but he had a pic-nic party with him of young people who filled two boats, and among them was my second and her sweetheart. She wore pink ribbons this time, so the blue that she used to wear may have been for the boat boy. She found an opportunity to tell me that with the money she has earned this summer she has bought a certain handsome young Durham cow that we used to admire some- times and carry salt and corn cakes to at the fence of the Barnacles' pasture. I don't see what she wants with a cow, unless maybe she is going to set up in business keeping summer boarders*:loMr. Farewell's letter says: "Mr*»,F. and I have been thinking of making you a pro- position to lease our place and run it yourself next year. What do you think of the idea? We think it would be to your interest because you under- stand the business. There are places in the neighborhood very successful that have not as good advantages as ours, but it needs more attention than I can give it. We should ask you no rent at first but to accommodate my family with the same rooms we now occupy dur- ing the summer season. Come over and let us talk about it. We have had quite a busy time until yesterday. The relations who were expected early in the summer arrived the day after you went away. We regretted very much that they had not come sooner. Unfortunately, too, Mary Jane' had a spell of sickness in the midst of it. I should have come over to see you if I had known your where- abouts. Do not fail to come and see us before you leave." He would ask no rent but his fa- mily's summer board. Let us see how much rent that would be. There are six of them in the family. . This summer they have been waited on by the regular "help" of the house, but if this arrangement were made they would have a servant of their own, that would be seven. And under such an arrangement they would stay here twelve weeks. Our figures show that it costs $5.40 per week to keep each person according to the style of the few weeks past. All things considered there would be no need to charge for the servant, who would relieve the house girls of so much work, therefore the expense would be: 6 persons @$5-40 each $32.40 per week; for 12 weeks, total $388.80. That is what I shall have to pay them in the way of rent. If they go to some other resort they cannot get as good as they have here for less than ten dollars per week each and their one servants board free; that will be for 6 persons 12 weeks, total $720, a difference in their favor of $331.20. I had rather pay them a cash rent of $500, on con- dition that they come and board with me at $ 10 per week each for 12 weeks; which would cause them to pay me back $220. Another consideration is that they would occupy three of my best rooms, 174 COOKING FOR PROFIT. uri^J52£f The Ballade of A printer threw away his stick And washed his inky hands. "I'll go and tempt the Fates," he cried, "Far ofi in Western lands." And so he landed in Begosh, A brand new Kansas town, And there he built a small hotel And named it "Settle Down." He was the landlord, clerk and cook The table waiter, too. He made the beds and tended bar— And had enough to do. The town grew fast, the hotel throve, He hired some extra hands. His profits quite as fast as got He put in Begosh lands. And as he throve he felt a want: Mysterious, dim, obscure, He could not tell exactly what, But there it was, for shure. "Ha! Hal" he cried, as sudden light Broke on him while at dinner, "I want a printed bill-of-fare— "I do—as I'm a sinner." There was no printing press in town; He sent and bought him one. It came, with type, he worked—and lol The bill-of-fare was done. *) Menu should be pronounced mayno. 'Settle Down." He loaded it with lots of French To sort of give it style, And proudfully he set it forth His boarders to beguile. There came six cowboys to his board, All armed and fierce and grim. Each man picked up a bill-of-fare— Then hastened out to him. Then on that pale and trembling man Their words fell fierce and hot: "Why don't yer talk United States? "What is this Dago rot? "Wha'i 'A lay-matree Dhotel'f "What's 'pum-mey-D-ter-ree'1 "What's 'Mack-er-hony-aw-gra-teen' t "What's 'Me-new't What's 'Saw-tee't "Who's 'Juliana'? Who's 'Tommy Tt "Who's 'Z.«'and 'May O'Nasi'f "Say! is 'Con-Sommy-Printer-near'f "Where is 'Pat.-D.-Foy-grass' t" "Yer'r growin' richl Yer'r gettin' proud! "Yer want ter be er dude. "Ther daisies claim yer tender toes. "Yer'll du ther grass roots good." There fell a grave like silence then— Each man his cannon drew. ******** The doctor's perforation count Came up to forty-two. EPITAPH. This man was too advanced for use, He had to great a head. He worked his"Settle-Down" in French— His settle-up in lead. From the Hotel Register, N. T. COOKING FOR PROFIT. 177 knife through the small of the back and the lower part or side bones fall off. Then remove the wings at the sockets. Next take off the first slice —the brown outside—of the breast. If a large fowl you can get a broad slice more of white meat before touching the bone. Next to that is the fowl's shoulder-blade, a bone almost like the wishbone, imbedded in the white meat and very much in the way of the carver .who is not posted; but your knowing hand takes hold of it by the projecting knob, which is the wing socket, and gently pulls it off and the white meat that comes with it and covers it, and it makes a slice itself almost as thin and quite as broad as the others. Under that and lying close to the breast bone is another layer to be taken off with the point of the knife and that makes four slices of white meat from one side, eight from the two sides, to make the tops of dishes partly made up of a slice from the leg, or a side bone or split of the upper part of the back. In carving a turkey the proceed- ing is the same but less difficult as there is more meat to work on. The usual way, which was the way Mc- G— did, is to place the carving fork astride of the breast bone and keep it there until the turkey is all cut up, but Carter objected that thrusting the fork in there cut through a slice of the white meat in the best part on each side of the bone and he took a hold in the crop cavity as already mentioned. ed Chicken with Jelly. ARTISTIC COOKERY And Notes on the London Cookery and Food Exhibition of 1885. BY JESSUP WHITEHEAD. The thousands of intelligent and progressive workers who are now using Whitehead's Hotel Books are reminded of a promise written some years ago in the American Pastry Cook, at No. 221, to give at a sub- sequent time certain illustrated in- structions in cake ornamentation, and also some further details of the method of preparing stands and socles for meat dishes named at No. 802J. Under the styles of table service at present prevailing, there is not much demand for work of that kind, however beautiful it may be; still, whenever the holiday season approaches, with its banquets and decorated tables, some letters always come with reminders that those promises remain unredeemed. The completion of a new volume in the series now furnishes the desired op- portunity. Had these lines been written a few months earlier, it would probably have been with the impression that a revival of what is called artistic cookery, which is really only orna- mental cookery, was taking place; the rather unsatisfactory result of the recent cookery and food exhibition at the Royal Aquarium, London, has a tendency to dispel that idea, how- ever, and seems to show that there is but little recompense to be ex- pected for any efforts in that line, the times being too thorougly practical in their tendency to allow much demand for such fragile and transit- ory work as the cooks can put upon their cold dishes. A resort hotel in the United States may go through a season's business, entertain ten thou- sand guests, and pay a chefihe high- est salary, and yet never require a single ornamental dish beyond a turkey in jelly to be sliced before served, or some other such simple dish. Still, as "BEAUTY IS ITS OWN EXCVSE FOR BEING," we must pursue the ornamental branch as a labor of love,because we take pleasure in showing such work, as the cooks of the largest cities yearly make displays of pieces that cost them nights and days of patient toil, simply keeping up the fashions of other times for their own pride and gratification. Numbers of the British aristocracy patronize and en- courage the ornamental work that perpetuates old customs, such as boar's head banquets, and the En- glishman who eats five meals a day will have the buffet or sideboard, where the early lunch or late cold supper is displayed, decorated in his chejf's best style, if he can afford it, for there it does not interfere with the newer floral fashions which rule the dinner table. At some American hotels, where a specialty is made of serving banquets to order, this orna- mental work frequently comes in (178) COOKING FOR PROFIT. 179 place, and on many occasions, such as holidays and anniversaries, the cook can bring in his little surprises for the benefit of his own reputation, if for nothing else. It was not THK LONDON EXHIBITION alone that gave seeming indicatons of a change to a revival of ornamental pieces, for its precursor, a similar ex- hibition at Berlin a year or two pre- vious, which has already been alluded to in this book (No. 692) where the Emperor and Empress gave their personal attention to the encourage- ment of such work had the appear- ance of originating the movement of which the London exhibition with its imposing plan and extensive ad- vertising was a continuation. The after report shows it to have been principally an advertising ex- position of materials and appliances, and in spite of the best endeavors of its promoters, the cooking depart- ment attracted less attention than the sideshows and the music. There were about 300 exhibitors, however, and several gold medals and purses were contested for in various departments, that of artistic cookery being the most interesting. In accordance with the European proprieties, the London exhibition started under the patronage of a dozen titled personages and a jury besides of twenty-six ladies and gentlemen in the artistic cookery department. The motive power of the whole affair seems to have been furnished by three or four firms ex- tensively engaged in the catering and restaurant business,with a hard work- ing honorary secretary who managed all the details, and for whom at last a purse was made up by subscription of the exhibitors in recognition of his untiring exertions. One of these catering firms contracted to furnish meals as follows: Hot and cold lunches at 50 cents per head. Dinners a la carte from 60 cents upwards. The club dinner at 85 cents. The table d'h&te dinner at $1.25. The dinner a la carte is the restau- rant style where every dish in the bill of fare has the price attached, and a person can order according to what he wishes to spend. The club dinner is in courses, the person takes all that is offered,in good form but without much choice and pays a fixed price for the repast. The table d'hote is the hotel plan; the person chooses from the bill of fare whatever he pleases and as much as he pleases, and pays a fixed price for the repast, be it little or much. We give these particulars to show the ideas of theLondon caterers, of the worth of the different meals. On certain stated dates they an- nounced they would serve: The Indian dinner at $1.25 per head. The American dinner at $1.75. The old English dinner at 1.50. Dinner a la Francaise at $1.50. The Indian dinner was intended to give prominence to East Indian products and dishes of curries,pillaus, kabobs, rice, chutneys and teas, a fea- ture that was instigated by a firm engaged in the East India trade. The old English dinners we have no paiticulars about, but doubtless it included roast beef and plum pud- ding, whatever the side effects may have been, and the French dinner as surely included bards and braizes, sautes and ragouts, as well as sorbets and sucres. 180 COOKING FOR PROFIT. It was certainly atr ibute to the ex- cellence of American fare that the price of the AMERICAN DINNER was placed the highest in the list; the plan probably contemplated oysters, turkey, terrapin and canvas back,with hominy or corn, and a pumpkin pie not very far off, and it is to be hoped the caterers were well aware that ice cream, the pure article frozen, is reg- ular American diet. We eat it three times a day and once at night after the theatre. There was a vast variety in kinds of goods exhibited, ranging from water filters and ranges, electric light- ing for dining-rooms, and refrigerat- ors and silver plating to the flexible glass neckties and FLEXIBLEGLASS WEDDING CAKE decorations, and from steam machin- ery for making bread and cake, to "Mrs. Butcher, vegetable flower cut- ter," who announced: "Flowers carved by hand from carrots and tur- nips. The process demonstrated." This must have been a very useful old lady to have around at such a time, and her art has some relation to the wax flower work to be mentioned further on. Another oddity among the entries is "Maids of Honour, a peculiar kind of Cheese-Cakes which have been sold at the original shop, Hill street, Richmond, for nearly two centuries." (See No. 505.) There were PRIZES OFFERED for small dishes of sweets, best four by one person, and best two prizes for cold entrees in sets, or for groups of savories and sweets, all by the same maker; prizes for folding nap- kins and for the best set table, and prizes by the gas stove makers for best things baked in their contriv- ances; and at certain times there were lectures on cookery which we are led to infer from the reports proved less attractive than the various side-shows which had been admitted to the building. The two or three days devoted to the ARTISTIC COOKERY CONTEST proved the most interesting and drew together the chefs and caterers from vorious parts of "the kingdom." Some of the prizes were: For two grosse pieces, fish, meat, fowl or game, a gold medal and $30; second prize, silver medal. Four dishes, cold entrees, prizes the same. Six dishes of meat, poultry, etc., larded and trussed, etc., ready for cooking. Prize, silver medal and $10. Trophy of birds, animals, fish, flowers, fruit, cascades, temples, or landscapes, any size suitable for buf- fet. Prize, silver medal and $10. Four ornamental blocks for sweets or savories made of either of the fol- lowing: Saindoux, stearine, salt, wood, raised paste, rice, or bread. Prize, bronze medal and $5. A decorated Christmas cake. Prize, bronze medal. Twelve varieties of rolls and bread. Prize, silver medal. Cheap soup for the poor with recipe for making and the cost. There were about 180 entries in the cookery lists. The principal pieces entered were: A cygnet (young swan) in galant- ine on wax stand. Boar's head on wax stand. Peacock a la royale. Round of beef a l'Ecossaise. Dinde (turkey) a l'Imperatrice. Galantine de faisan (pheasant.) Boar's head. Dish of game. COOKING FOR PROFIT. 181 Tete de sanglier de la Foret noir, sur socle (Boar's head from Black Forest, on stand.) Capon and tongue, en bellevue. Poularde a la "Army and Navy" (hotel) on mutton fat stand (a bas- tion.) Hure de sanglier (wild boar's head) a la St. Hubert, on mutton fat stand (a fig tree.) In the section of "trophies" of birds, animals, etc., the pieces entered were castles, temples, windmills and the like made of sugar or gum paste, one temple being made of wood covered with icing, and one consisted of objects representing scenes from operas, in sugar work. There were also entries of— Two decorated salt blocks, suitable for galantines, tongues, etc. Two decorated salt blocks, suitable for boar's head, raised pies, hams, etc. Four carved salt blocks. Four ornamental blocks of wood, salt and wax. These selections from a lengthy catalogue will give an idea what the display was made of. The exhibitors were the chefs in the employ of cer- tain lords and ladies in most cases, and of the leading restaurants and London hotels. These were the plans before the opening. They were carried out with only partial success. The after report says the exhibitors succeeded in getting a good adver- tisement of their wares if they did not find many purchasers; and the artistic cookery competition brought together a few good pieces and a great many indifferent and bad ones. This is not to be wondered at. As is the case with the exhibits made at the COOK'S ANNUAL BANQUETS in this country the ornamental work is done under great difficulties,usually in the nights after the day's work has been performed, and the cooks are almost all out of practice. If they had the same tasks to perform weekly or monthly they would learn by ex- perience and improve on their former efforts, but if only once a year and they try a new thing each time it is impossible for their works to be strictly works of art or even com- monly admirable. Still there are some champions in this line and for their best efforts a CHAMPION PRIZE • was offered in addition to the other prizes, not to be restricted to any one department, but to be awarded for the best piece in the whole exhibition. It was won by a hotel confectioner for a trophy in sugar work; this chef cPceuvre consisted of a double vase of flowers moulded in sugar and colored to imitate the natural tints. This award gave dissatisfaction to one person at least, this was an ex- hibitor, a champion, too, in his line, chef to a lord, author af a book on confectionery, and who had some admirable pieces on exhibition and he has since challenged the champion prize winner—the hotel man—to an- other contest for $50 a side. The dissatisfied man is a Frenchman and . requires a jury composed of three or four English cooks and as many French to decide upon the result. Amongst the regrets expressed that this exhibition had not proven richer in fine works of culinary art, it is mentioned that the French cooks in London had made a display of their own some months previous and shown much superior work. As some of the exhibitors have furnished de- scriptions of their dishes for publica- tion, it is possible to give a very fair idea of what "very best" work con- sists. 182 COOKING FOR PROFIT. TIMBALES OF TRUFFLES A LA ROTHSCHILD. By M. Alfred Suzanne, of London. Choose some large fresh truffles, all of one size and as round as pos- sible. Having thorougly cleansed them by brushing the mould off in water, set them to boil slowly for half an hour in a champagne "mirepoix." When cold, drain the truffles, saving the liquor in which they have been boiled, and with a round cutter scoop out all the inside of the truffles. Next, make a "salpi- con" compound of chicken, mush- rooms, tongue and truffles; these in- gredients must be stamped out with a round cutter, the third of an inch in diameter, and amalgamated to- gether with some Allemande sauce. When ready to serve, warm up the truffles in some of the "mirepoix," the remainder of which is reduced with some Espagnole sauce to pour round the entree. Fill up the truffles with the hot salpicon, and serve. The season of the London Exhibi- tion was the season also of THE TRUFFLE HARVEST in Italy and France. Some exceed- ingly fine truffles were shown, some, it is stated weighed I j£ pounds each. When absolutely fresh, as these were, the truffle is a thing to raise enthu- siasm in the mind both of the gour- mand and his cook; it has a rich, nutty flavor that is peculiarly its own and a pefume as pervading as that of a bunch of ripe bananas. It is a tuber that grows spontaneously, just below the surface of the gr6und; some are nearly white all through but the best are jet black. One re- commendation of the truffle in the eyes of the wealthy is its dearness, which keeps it above the reach of "common people." A dish of large truffles prepared as directed in the recipe for a fasionable dinner party fifteen or twenty might perhaps cost fifty dollars. The canned and bot- tled truffles ranging from the size of a gooseberry up, and which cost about a dollar an ounce, do serve a purpose in furnishing a name for a dish, but their intrinsic value is noth- ing at all; they are not even the ghost of the real, fresh article. NECTARINE DE FOIE GRAS A LA MOLESWORTH. By M. Alphonse Landry t of London. A cylindrical mould resting on a layer of pounded rough ice is to be lined with a bright aspic jelly, the side6 being decorated with cut truffles. Line the mould a second time with white sauce chaudfroid. When set, fill the mould lightly with foie gras mixed with truffles, both cut into small dice. To set the whole, fill up the mould with a good brown sauce chaudfroid, and finish with essence of truffles and aspic jelly of a good consistency. Let the mould remain in the ice until wanted, when dip it into hot water and turn out the contents on a dish. Fill the centre with truffles, and put croutons of aspic jelly round the base. Foie-gras is liver-fat or fat liver; the French language generally puts the cart before the horse that way; but it specially means the livers of fat geese that come principally from Strasbourg where a great business is made of fattening geese for the sake of the livers. Pate - de -foie -gras means two things, it is either paste of fat liver, with truffles in it, such as comes in jars from Strasbourg, or pie of fat livers—according to the accent on the word fate. The pie or pate made of a crust baked in a raised mould is oftenest lined inside with a coating of paste of foie gras and then filled with raw foies gras and seasonings covered and baked; to be eaten cold. M. Landry's dish above discribed is of cooked foies gras and truffles in COOKING FOR PROFIT. 185 A chaudf roid sauce is one that will set like jelly when cold. The woodcut representation above gives an idea of the appearance of an ornamental piece—a cold entree that was awarded the prize of a gold medal at the French cooks' own ex- hibition in London. It is but justice to all concerned to say that these pictures are far less handsome than the reality. It is a piece that illus- trates completely the explanations of the methods followed which are found in the salads and cold dishes addition to the American Pastry Cook, No. 802J. It was an original design, but employed: ist. The wooden stand. 2nd. The wax flower and leaf or- naments. 3rd. The figures of swans made of mutton fat by casting in metal moulds. There are shops in London where a great variety of moulds are kept for such purposes, usually they are of pewter and consist of two parts hinged together. Some are swans, some battle horses, some dragons, mermaids, deer, lions, dolphins, in short anything that would be suit- able to place where the swans appear in the cut above can be bought or hired. The process is but to fill them with the whitest fat that can be ob- tained, in a melted state, open the moulds and take the figures out when cold. Another sort of mould is also mentioned in the recipe; tongue- shaped moulds, and some London manufacturers advertise that they make any sort of mould to suit new designs and new fashions as they are required. Another requirement is the wooden stand. The picture shows a wooden stand of two stories, like two cake stands set one upon another, except that these are two bowls or cups in- stead of flat stands. The whole of the stand is covered with mutton fat so that the wood is not perceivable but it looks like a stand of wax. The edible part is built up in the larger bowl and ornamented also with edibles. It was a symmetrical object and glistening with colored jellies and meats, and colored salads above the waxen wreath that borders the large bowl might well claim atten- tion and admiration. A few cooks will carry a small assortment of moulds along with them when they travel and if they remain for years in the same city may acquire a large collection; this is not the rule, however, and when a party is to be provided for on short notice the cook must either pick up some such orna- mental objects as plaster images or toy birds and animals and make his own moulds in plaster of paris, or else make designs that do not require moulded figures, as can well be done according to the following showing. The following is the outline of a piece that was put up with a large pat- tern of ornamentation, suitable for the purpose of these instructions. It is a wooden stand in the first place covered first with a smooth coating of stearine, then bordered and deco- rated with wax flowers and leaves. On top of the stand is a large platter containing a decorated galantine of turkey. To obtain the wooden stands apply to a cabinet maker, and have them made of a size to hold the dishes you intend to use. There should be a rim of wooden hooping around the edge both to hold the dish and to give room for the ornaments. These stands will very likely cost about one dollar each. They may be of differ- ent sizes, the stems measuring from six to twelve inches in height. 18C COOKING FOR PROFIT. Fit?. 2. Qalantirie de Dinde stir Socle. (Boned Turkey in Jelly on Wax Stand, Magnolia Pattern). By Jessuf Whilthcad. Served at a terrapin sapper given by Mrs. Robt. J. I.owry (Miss Markham), at Atlanta, Ga. To cover the stand, melt either some white wax, or parrafine, or stearine, or mutton tallow, or a mix- ture of wax and tallow. White wax can be and is used in that way and is cleanly, but it is expensive and hard to make a smooth surface with, on account of the high degree of heat required to keep it in a melted state. Mutton fat mixed with wax is a good material, but better still is the same stearine that candles are made of; it does not grease the fingers and has no smell. Wax costs from fifty cents to a dollar a pound while candles can be bougt at eight pounds for a dollar. Melt in a tin pan and pour it over the stand with a spoon. When the wood is everywhere covered hold the stand in front of a fire, turning it about while the surplus fat drips off and leaves a smooth, even surface; then, when the stand has become cold and white take a hot knife and smooth off the edges and ridges that remain. 188 COOKING FOR PROFIT. leaves and flowers can be made with 'he greatest rapidity, sometimes drop- ping from the shape of themselves. By the same method fan-leaves, palms, bells, grape bunches, cups, thimbles, stars, faces, animals' heads, spear heads, cornices and mouldings can be made in great variety within certain restrictions which will soon be discovered upon trial, such as the impracticability of making a round ball-shaped flower, unless in two halves. It is best for a beginner to make a large number of rery small flowers and leaves at first instead of large and heavy ones, the light ones being easy to fasten in place and less liable to fall off or be broken through pro- jecting too far from the stand. To Decorate the Stands. The flowers and leaves are fastened in place by melting a little stearine upon them, hold a rose to its place with the fingers of one hand while the other applies the point of a hot knife to the place of contact. They may also be dipped in melted stear- ine and pressed in place while it sets. Heavy ornaments require tape stems to be attached to support them on the edge of the stand. It is scarcely possible to improve upon the appearance of a well exe- cuted wax stand in pure pearly white, yet colored wax can be used and colored flowers made by the same methods. The material of which the colored candles on Christmas trees are made is suitable for the purpose. Wax stands with colored ornaments are suitable for comic designs like pigs in dress coats, and similar notions. Galantines and Aspics. Directions for preparing and or- namenting galantines and apics de foies-gras have been given at Nos. 853, 860, and 943, and methods of ornamenting with colored jellies at No. 692 and succeeding numbers. Very particular directions for larger operations can also be found in the cold dishes department in the Amer- ican Pastry Cook. The ordinary galantine moulds are tin pans made oval instead of round and of sizes that run about one inch difference in diameter. But any other shape can be used as well if it only corresponds with the stand. A very fine supper with decorated dishes has been set where nothing but the common round glass cake stands were available; but a number of them were covered with melted wax and then smothered in wax flowers till they had not the slightest semblance of a glass cake stand, and they required meat dishes and raised pies to be of round shape to match. Broad Blocks and Crous- tades. In order to elevate a galantine into sufficient prominence above the ornaments a bread "block" may be employed or cake of cooked rice, according to the subject. Cut the bread to fit the dish, fry it in a kettle of oil or lard to a handsome light brown color. When cold dip it several times in bright jelly keeping it in ice between each dipping till a good coat of jelly remains upon it, place it in the dish and turn the de- corated galantine out of its mould on top of it. A very handsome dish or terrine of pate-de-foie-gras can be made in COOKING FOR PROFIT. 189 this way. Prepare a decorated stand with wax leaves and flowers. Cut three or four blocks of bread of dif- ferent sizes to make a pyramid and fry them to a nice deep yellow color and place them in their dish. Have some bright aspic jelly ready and chop it quite fine. Take a pan of liver paste (No. 860 will do for the purpose) and cut out pieces with spoons made hot in boiling water. The spoon will shape the liver paste like the half of an egg cut length- wise. As fast as cut out dredge them with the minced jelly, then place them around on the steps of the fried bread pyramid, covering it very nearly, and between the points insert triangular blocks of colored jelly and decorate with lemon baskets garnished with sprigs of parsley. Make Allowance for Heat. Much vexation and trouble over- takes every inexperienced hand who makes no allowance for the effects of a heated supper room upon the jellies which his refrigerator has kept in such a pleasant state of solidity, but after one or two catastrophes caused by the build-up dishes melt- ing down like snow in the sun the workman learns to make his goods doubly firm with plenty of gelatine to withstand the ordeal of a gas-lit and crowded hall. The Boar's Head. In the United States we have little or nothing to do with the perpetua- tion of ancient customs and have little sympathy of sentiment with them that have. We are too ready to throw a wet blanket on every exhibition of the ancient fires by asking and continually asking:" What is the use of it?" We are so accustomed to looking forward, to " the millions yet to be," to the new, to the cities which are springing up without permission from anybody, that we have forgotten about such things as the ancient granting of city charters by kings and barons with tributary conditions imposed, such as the presenting of a peacock, or a huge blackbird pie, or a boar's head to the suzeraine on a 190 COOKING FOR PROFIT. certain day each year; and find it hard to enter into the solemn sort of fun which the very respectable and reverend seat of English learning, Oxford College, enjoys as an annual custom. A little better understand- ing of the symbolism of some of the designs would make even the exhi- bition of artistic cookery at the cook's annual banquets far more interesting than they are. THE OXFORD BOAR'S HEAD DINNER. The boar's head dinner at Queen's College, Oxford, on ChrlstmaS Day is a survival of a custom once prevalent In all England. In 1678, Aubrey wrote: "In gentlemen's houses at Christmas, the first dish that was brought to table was a boar's head, with a lemon in his mouth." There is an account of an Essex parish, called Hornchurch, in which the inhabitants paid the great- tithes on Christmas Day, and were treated with a bull and a brawn. The boar's head was wrestled for by the peasants on that occasion, and then feasted upon. It would be easy to multiply instances. At half-past six o'clock in the afternoon of Christmas Day, the Hall of Queens College was filled by persons anxious to witness the time-honoured ceremony of the Boar's Head procession. The hall was liberally adorned with greenery, and a monstrous fire created a welcome tempera- ture. Although the weather was damp and foggy, by six o'clock the picturesque old hall presented an animated appearance, filled nearly to overflowing with a crowd of merry faces; the dark tone of the gentle- men's clothing and the bright bits of colour of the ladies' showed up very effectually against the old oaken wainscoating. The boar's head, which was provided and dished up by Mr. Wm. H. Horn, the College manciple, was a splendid specimen, weigh- ing seventy pounds, and was decorated with the proverbial "bays and rosemary," and surmounted with a crown and flags bearing the College arms. Upon the sound of the trumpet, at the head of the procession of singing men and choristers, marched the Rev. Robt. Powley, M. A., Curate of Cowley, who took the solo part in the " Boar's Head Carol:" The Boar's head in hand bear I, Bedecked with bays and rosemary, And I pray you, masters, merry be, Quotquot estis in convivio. Chorus. Caput Apri dcfero. Redden laudes Domino. The Boar's head, as I understand. Is the bravest dish in the land; Being thus decket with fray garland, Let us servire cantico. Chorus. Our Steward has provided this In honour of the King of Bliss, Which on this day to be served is In Reginensi Atro. Chorus. Wynkin de Worde's carol (printed in 1521) was, of course, much quainter, espe- cially verse three: Be gladde, lordes, both more and lesse, X or this hath ordeyned our stewarde To chere you all this Christmasse, The Boar's heed with mustarde. A distribution of leaves which garnished the dish was then made by the Provost (Dr. Magrath). The custom of serving up the boat's head at Queen's College has been ob- served for about 500 years, one authority quoting 1350 as being the probable year of the first festival.—London Caterer. The man whose office requires him to provide a boar's head in the orthodox fashion for such an occasion as that described, be he "manciple" steward or cook, must feel a greater importance attaching to the task than if it were the most elaborate of tran- sient party dinners. A dozen or more of boar's heads were shown at the London Exhibition. They are equally prominent in continental dis- plays. The narratives of continental history as well as fiction abound in recitals of wild boar hunts, in the Forest of Ardennes, in France, the Black Forest, in Germany. A boar's head a la St. Hubert is among the highest achievements a chef in orna- mental work can set himself to accomplish. St. Hubert is the patron saint of hunters. The piece is a boar's head, the bones taken out, stuffed, cooked, set up in the likeness of life, glazed, ornamented, placed upon a stand, set amongst waxen or silver-plated branches of a tree, decorated with bays and hunting COOKING FOR PROFIT. 193 awarded to a firm of "country cate- rers," from Leamington, who came to the great city and took the premi- um with a cake that was remarkable for its elaborate piping in sugar icing, which is true pastry cook's and confectioner's work; and the gem of the exhibition in bride cakes is said beyond the sphere of the workman who makes the cake to carry it to such a completion. It is a trade to itself to make the gum paste struc- tures with altars and leaves apd flowers which we see exhibited for sale under glass cases at the confec- tioners in every large city. Pastry Cake Decoration In White Icing. BY JESSUP WHITEHEAD. {From a Photograph.) to have been one decorated with real hot-house flowers relieved by delicate green ferns, and if the cake itself was already ornamented in icing it must have been a beautiful object and not too far removed from common ideas of edibility, and not cooks can make a few flowers on the spur of necessity, but very few can make them as perfectly as those do who never do any other work but make flowers. The instructions here to be given are for designs in pure sugar icing, 194 COOKING FOR PROFIT. practice in which will lead the learner on to a trial of all the addi- tional branches. The engraving on the preceding page shows the design of cake deco- rated in the Grecian style that once came under the powerful protection of no less a person than General Grant, whose interference prolonged its existence at least two days. The hand that was extended to make a breach in the upper works was Mrs. Grant's. That serene lady would have broken off one of the white birds which were hovering in the act of sip- ping the crim- son jelly in the glasses. The general put his hand on hers and pushed it aside saying: "Don't break that." "I want to try the con- fectionery," said the lady. "There is plenty without—don't break it—," said he again; and it was saved to appear again next day with sections cut out of both the lower cake and the upper one on two sides, the cake sliced and part of the slices replaced, and all was done without breaking the ornamentation, which requires but a small foundation to stand upon. The lower cake was made by the recipe No. 836, the upper was a white citron cake. Over the top of the pyramid, which was all pure white and lace-like, was thrown a. long and slender vine of Virginia creeper, much handsomer than smilax because of the finely tapering grada- tions of the leaf sizes, and these were just turned to vivid colors by the touch of the first October frost.*) This is a pic- ture of the cake that was made and ornamented in haste and under difficul- ties for the wedding of the banker's daugh- ter, as hurriedly sketched at No. 941. It took about four hours of a summer night to put up • *?*" those ornaments in sugar icing. There were, of course, more people concerned in that wedding than it was business of mine to men- tion at such a hard-working time, and among them was the young lady's father, the banker himself; and when the table was set and the time was right to bring along the wedding presents he walked up and * [That was perhaps the happiest period of General Grant's life. He was spending: » week with his family and officers of his staff and their wives at the Manitou House, Manitou Springs, Colorado. He loved that locality, this was his third visit to it; it was in the third year of his first term as President, an office of w'-ich he was w ary and he delighted the people of Manitou village by declaring his intention of returning and making his home there when his term was ended. He went around the world after that and after all he visited Manitou once more, though only for a day, when on his way to Leadville, where he had thought of investing in the mines.] COOKING FOR PROFIT. 195 1 Decorated Cake Center-Piece on a Silver IMnh. Height about 3}ift. Served at a private supper tendered to General U. S. Grant by Governor Tabor at Leadville, Colo. The baskets and spaces filled up with a various assortment of the lightest Italian cakes, macaroons, meringues, and bon-bons and the whole festooned with smilax. 196 COOKING FOR PROFIT. took out of his breast pocket the title deed to a forty-thousand-dollar house and lot in Lakeport, made out in his daughter's name; he rolled up the document and placed it under the lid of the basket and left it there. The hostess put into the basket on top a silver thimble and the host put in a gold pencil case, then the children climbed on chairs and filled the basket and all the spaces with white flowers which they had been out at sunrise to all the neighbours' gardens to gather. When the bride came to cut the cake she shed tears on the flowers, hung the pencil case on her watch-chain, put the thimble on her finger and tucked the title deed down in the bosom of her dress. And the children ate both the basket and the pedestal because it was all sugar and flavored with lemon. Cake Peroration in White Iriug. BY JESSUP WHITEHEAD. From a Photograph. COOKING FOR PROFIT. 197 1 Uurht about J feet. Cake Decoration In White Icing. BY JESSUP WHITEHEAD. Cake Center Piece, Stand for Small Sweeti, to go with Floral Decorations, given by Mrs. R. J. Lowry, Atlanta, Georgia. Served at a terrapin supper This pattern has been redrawn large and distinct to show the details plainly for the purpose of this article. The photographer remarked that "it was a daisy," and he squared himself three or four different ways to get the best expression of it. The pure white and fragile structure was orna- mented with bright colored sugar flowers set upon it and around the edges and in the spaces. It was an ornamented cake made to serve as a center piece among some elaborate floral decorations at a party supper COOKING FOR PROFIT. 201 There are two distinct classes of cooks and two different lines of cook- ing, they are the chefs who cook for my lord the Marquis of Carrabas and his noble compeers on the one side, and the chefs who manage large kitchens and numerous subordinates and who count the meals they send out by the thousands a day on the other, and the American Cookery Exhibition will regard the latter class and their work as the matter of greatest public interest and will stimulate them to seek methods of greater variety and perfection in serving the complete individual din- ners of the modern hotel and restau- rant system. There were ideas in the London exhibition which will perhaps have to be brought over to this side for development. There was the national dinner idea but too pinched and narrow; the prize table setting, but on a private house basis; the prize napkin-folding, but no waiter's drill nor prize waiter work; there were little dishes made by amateur cooks, but no contests of veterans of the table d'hote system; there were two days of fitful interest over a display of ornamental pieces which resulted in dissatisfaction over the awards of prizes and while even this was being but poorly attended there were a thousand "temperance lunch houses," "coffee taverns," "oyster houses," "railway eating sta- tions," "chop houses," restaurants and hotels of every description where the real cookery exhibitions were going on and in which the public were really interested which had no more part nor lot in the Aquarium exhibition than if it had been in some distant country. They are all inter- ested in the art of cooking for large numbers but not in pieces monties. There was one good idea of a hotel cook who entered for exhibition three sauces, but little known; that idea will be amplified in the American exhibition into a show and sampling of all known sauces. There will be a display, for prizes, of the best ways the best cooks have invented of orna- menting the individual dishes of each separate hotel dinner; there will be prizes for the best ten ways of cook- ing certain specified articles of diet and the requirement of the proper name attached to every dish. There will be exhibitions of rapid waiter- work given at dinners served to members at nominal prices for this purpose, and the specially ornamental cooks who set out very grand ban- quet tables but never succeed in getting their patrons half waited upon, will have the opportunity to look on and learn how meals are served to hundreds or thousands at once. THE END. COOKJMG FOR PROFIT. 203 Suggestions for the Decoration of Small Dishes. For Restaurant Orders and Course Dinners. Cases (caisses) of various shapes can be made by a simple method similar to that of making a kind of crisp waffle. It is well enough to have the iron or copper shapes but they are not indispensable. Take common tin patty-pans, mix up a pancake batter or the same as used for pineapple fritters, that is rather thin; even flour batter-cake will do. Make some lard hot, dip the patty- pans in, then dip the outsides in the batter, drop into the lard and fry slowly. Soon the batter becomes dry and crisp like a shell. Pull it off, drain on paper, dip the patty- pans again until you have enough. Use these shells or cases instead of puff-paste patties to fill with stewed terrapin or scrambled brains, ragout of chicken liver, etc. Very small ones as thin as paper can be used to set around a dish, some filled with grated horseradish, others with maitre (ThStel butter, with peas or aspara- gus points. Other shells or cases are made by shaping rice croquettes or potato croquettes in any desired form, egging and breading them either once or twice and frying as usual. When done of a handsome clear brown color cut out the top and re- move the inside and fill up with minced chicken, minced kidneys, any curry mixture or ragout, giblets, sweetbreads or brains. Another resource for small orna- mental dishes is the carving of raw potatoes, sweet potatoes and turnips into shapes like cups or tumblers, fry them slowly in lard or oil enough to cover them till done, drain on paper, sprinkle with salt and use them in the ways above described. Similar shapes may be cut out of bread and fried in the same way. The common method of orna- menting a spoonful of meat and sauce in an individual dish with a heart-shaped or leaf-shaped crouton of fried bread is good with the excep- tion of being too common. The 204 COOKING FOR PROFIT. common fault is to cut the shapes too large and out of bread sliced too thick. They should be dipped some- times in bright sauce and parsley dust and be set up leaning against the meat as well as bordering the dish. Similar thin pieces of fried bread may be set up on end around a dish, fastened by being dipped in egg and placed while the dish is hot; the meat is then to be dished in the middle. A very handsome border can be made of duchesse potato mix- ture or balls set around, carefully egged over and the top slightly baked by setting on the top shelf. Another is made by making a firm puree by rubbing green peas through a sieve. Dip a teaspoon in hot butter and with it dip up small egg-shapes and place in order around the dish. Lemons to go with salmon steak or fried oysters may be cut in basket shapes with scolloped edges. Beets may be stamped out with fancy cutters. There should not be too much crowding. One of the most effective ornaments for a salad is a strip or two of blood beet in vinegar cut with a scollop potato knife, small, like a common lead pencil in size, but serrated, and laid on top of the salad. A little ornamental effect can be given to all the ordinary individual dishes at dinner by placing the meats diagonally in the dish; the rice may be placed slanting across one side and end of a dish and the curry in the same lengthened form in the remain- ing space just as well as shapelessly bunched up at each end or mixed, and the green peas with a croquette may as well lie in two diagonal lines alongside of it as to be in a promis- cous pile. Don't try too many expe- riments. One new wrinkle a week is enough. But remember that some big reputations and big salaries are made through the assiduous follow- ing up of all the advantages afforded by a cultivated taste for ornamenta- tion rather than from any real differ- ence in the cooking that is behind it all. / 210 COOKING FOR PROFIT. The five-cent lunch places in lower Broadway, N. Y., are getting more numerous and more popular. The proprietor of one of them said to a Tribune reporter: "For nearly half a century cheapness in New York, for nearly everything, but especially eating, has been synonymous with dirt. It was my idea in opening this place to make it absolutely clean and neat, the food wholesome and tooth- some, and the price so reasonable that I should get not only the multi- tude who are obliged to buy five-cent lunches, but that other class who pay a higher price to get something dean. I hit it, and so have the other places of this kind. I have enlarged my place twice since coming here, and shall enlarge it again as soon as the present tenants vacate a room next to me." A movement is now in very suc- cessful operation in Bordeaux to sup- ply workingmen with wholesome, well-cooked and substantial meals at a low cost. To this end a number of restaurants have been started in various parts of the city by a certain company, which is backed by the moral support of the medical frater- nity, the churches and the health authorities. In the course of a flying trip to Bordeaux last week, writes a correspondent, I visited one of these restaurants. The bill of fare served and the cost per item were as fol- lows: A large plate of vegetable soup, cost two cents; two large slices of bread, two cents; a plate of red haricot beans, two cents; a plate of roast veal, four cents; a plate of rice, one cent; half a bottle of vin ordi- naire, four cents. Thus a very fair and liberal dinner — there was no stinting in the amount served—was to be obtained for 15 cents. This might serve as a hint to New York. What can be made a successful busi- ness, where almost every article of food is taxed, ought to pay in New York, where meat and nearly all kinds of food are cheaper. Surely a good warm dinner of this charac- ter, served at a comfortable table, is a boon to the artisan. ONE-CENT BREAKFAST. The head master of the Board School at Wallsend, seeing so much distress about, and that many of the children attending his school were badly prepared to face the lessons of the day for want of sufficient food at home, and being, it is said, a firm be- liever in oatmeal, once the chief of "Scotia's food," determined to do something on his own account with- out waiting for "a committee." So he ordered a good supply of oatmeal from a mill in Berwickshire, of the finest quality. The cooking opera- tions commenced at 6: 30 a. m., and the porridge is allowed to boil for fifty minutes, and is cooled and ready for serving out at 8:15. Each child is supplied with about a pint of por- ridge—more or less, according to size and appetite—and a little more than half a gill of good skimmed milk. About one hundred and twenty children are thus receiving breakfast at a cost of about one-half penny each, and in most cases they are given free. In times gone by oat- meal was also the staple food of the North of England; it will be curious if it comes again into use. Its value as regards nutrition for children is beyond dispute. High wages have conduced to a high class though not better food for the working class. —London Lancet. 212 COOKING FOR PROFIT. You are dressed so nicely, O, Fraulein! All my feelings so precisely You divine: That from soup to tutti frutti, You're acquainted with your duly; And utility with beauty You combine. You are skilled in fancy cooking, O, Fraulein! You are the maid for whom I'm looking For my shrine. Tho' I have not wealth nor title, Prithee, list to my recital, Give my fond love some requital, O, be mine! So you actually are laughing, And decline? And my sentiment you're chaffing, And say: "Nein?" At my proffered love you laugh; eh? What! you are a better half, eh? Of the man who keeps this cafet O, Fraulein! —Chicago Rambler. TO MAKE AN ASTONISHING EGG. Labouchere gives the following recipe for a monster Easter egg: Take a dozen eggs, separate the whites from the yolks, which latter you pour into a small bladder well washed and thoroughly cleaned. Shape the bladder like a sphere, close it hermetically and plung it into boil- ing water. When the yolks are quite hard peel the bladder oft; you will find them in the form of a ball, which you must place in a larger bladder, adding the whites. The yellow ball suspends itself naturally in the center of the whites. Close the bladder and plunge it into boil- ing water. When this monster egg is quite hard peel the bladder off again. When you serve it place it in the center of a bowl of salad; then cut it up and serve with the salad. Sun, heard of them then for the first time. He describes them, not very accurately, and states how the hostess buys then; of a German woman, though they are usually made at home as wanted. The woman started the business, made such nice "nudels" and was so cleanly that she now sells enough to support herself and chil- » dren. All through Pennsylvania "nudels" are much eaten, particu- larly in soup. In Lancaster, and other inland towns, they are sold in the market . They are kept by some of the Philadelphia grocers, and are frequently served at Philadelphia tables. They are one of the many excellent dishes to which the New Yorker is a comparative stranger. If Mr. Dana will come to Philadel- phia, and let me know of his coming, I will promise him "nudel" soup of home-made "nudels" for dinner. I think he spells the word wrong. It ought to be noodles. It is the cus- tom, when you have noodle soup, to dispose of from four to five plates at least. The chicken, which is boiled in the soup, comes afterwards to table. They had "nudels" at a New York dinner, and Mr. Dana, of the Mr. Boucicault is said to be such an artist in cookery that he could give points to the best chefs in the country. Mr. Jefferson is very fond of griddle cakes; Salvini, of macaroni; Catherine and Jeffreys Lewis, of Frankfort sausage; and Patti has a weakness for onions— but "the weakness is so strong." "PLANKED SHAD.' The approach of the season when Washington epicures can enjoy the luxury of "planked shad," reminds the correspondent of the St. Louis Globe - Democrat of the following COOKING FOR PROFIT. 213 story about Daniel Webster: "Web- ster was an artist in this line, and prided himself greatly upon his gifts. His only rival was an aged slave, a character on the river, called Sam. There were those who said that Sam was the only one who knew how to cook planked shad; others protested that the great statesman was supreme. On sunny spring days, when parties of gentlemen went down the river to watch the fish nailed to their boards, sizzling and browning before the blaze of an outdoor fire, it was ar- ranged to have a trial for the cham- pionship between old Sam and Mr. Webster. Each contestant was well backed, and the lights of those early political days were all there. First Sam split the shad, seasoned them as he knew would most suit Mr. Web- ster's taste, and laid them before the orator done to a turn. "Really, Sam, this is the best planked shad I have ever eaten," quoth Daniel; and applause rang from Sam's adherents. Next Webster laid aside his toga and hovered around the fire, knife and salt-box in hand, watching the shad that he had prepared in the way he knew would best suit Sam's taste. Sam ate three mouthf-uls rapturously, and exclaimed: 'Fore God, Mr. Webster, I neber have tasted planked shad before!' Webster yielded grace- fully the palm to Sam, outdone by him in compliments as well as in cooking." "PLANKED" SHAD. Every little hotel and eating house fronting the Delaware at Gloucester has its specialty of "planked" shad. The fish, fresh from the stream, is cut in twain, fastened by tenpenny nails to a thick oak board, slanted toward a hot wood fire, duly basted and finally served at table on his oak gridiron. That the prince of Ame- rican fishes, served under these con- ditions and flanked by asparagus and kindred dainties, is at his best, goes without further saying. Daniel Web- ster, I have heard, used to plume himself more on his ability to "plank" a shad than on his highest oratorical flights. But if I may venture a per- sonal opinion against so famed an authority, the planked shad is not, after all, decidedly better than the same fish cooked prosaically on the domestic gridiron. He is fresher from the water, he is surrounded by the poetic novelty of odd cookery and service, and appetite is sharpened by the keen, watery air. Take these concomitants away, and the planked shad would lose half his fame. THE REAL VIENNA BREAD. Viennese bread is celebrated. It may interest you to know something about it. The excellence of the bread is attributed in Vienna to three reasons—the oven, the men and the yeast. I think another may be added, and that is the dry climate. An ounce of yeast (three decagrammes) and as much salt is taken for every gallon of milk used for the dough. The yeast is a Viennese specialty, known as the "St. Marxner Press- heffe," and its composition is a secret. It keeps two days in summer and a little longer in winter. The ovens are heated by wood fires lighted inside them during four hours; the ashes are then raked out and the oven is carefully wiped with wisps of damp straw. On the vapor thus generated, as well as that produced by the baking of the dough, lies the whole art of the browning and the success of the "semmel." 214 COOKING FOR PROFIT. "Yes," said Chef Ranhoffer, of Delmonico's, "we have a great de- mand for quail. We sold one hund- red a day and more before the sea- son ended. We could have given Mr. Walcott a quail cooked differ- ently every day in his match, thus agreeably relieving the monotony of his feat. A person would hardly believe this statement, but quail can be cooked in thirty-four different ways, at a cost to the eater of from seventy-five cents to two dollars for a single bird. We make them into soups, pies, stews and salmis, and add all kinds of sauces. In France a delicious way of cooking them is to wrap them with leaves and a piece of lard, bathe them in wine, and pour tomato sauce over them after they are cooked. Sometimes they are cooked with bay leaves, or they are treated in Spanish fashion and cooked with rice dressing. They can be stuffed like a regular fowl and treated with sauces until they are a luxury to the palate, and the diner will crave for a repetition." CREAM OR FONDANT. I presume from your question that the cream you speak of is what we call fondant, which article is the basis of all cream bonbons. This fondant is also used for covering or icing cakes and a great variety of what are called dipped goods. Fon- dant is made by boiling simple syrup to the forty-fifth degree by the sac- charometer; then pouring it on a very clean marble slab between iron bars, and when it has become nearly cold, so that you can place the back of your hand upon it without its ad- hering to it; it must be worked to and fro with a long-handled spatula until it granulates into a smooth mass, it must then with a knife be loosened from the marble and worked or broken with the hands into a sott- ish mass, and placed in an earthen- ware pan and covered. When you want to use it for icing purposes place the required quantity in a round-bottomed pan, place it upon a slow fire, and stir constantly with a small wooden spatula until it is thor- oughly melted, and there are no lumps in it. Do not on any account allow it to boil, even a little, as that would entirely destroy its creamy texture and change it into hard con- serve; when melted pour it over the article to be covered and use a pallet knife to smooth it and facilitate your operation, which must be done quick- ly, as in a few moments it will be- gin to set and dry. The cake can then be decorated with ordinay egg- icing, or in any other way to suit your fancy.— Confectioner*s jfour- nal. HOW TO PREPARE STUFFED EGG- PLANT. Mme. C. B. Waite's style is thus described by M. Xavier Wirtz, of the Sociite Culinaire Philantro- piqtie, and as fine a chef as ever wore white cap and apron: Cut the top of the eggplant off, also a small piece from the bottom, so it will stand steadily, then cut out all the inside, as near the shell as possible without breaking it. Fill the shell with salt and water (to extract the bitterness) and let it stand until just before dinner time. Stew the inside with a little water, bread crumbs, butter, cayenne pepper, salt, spices and a small piece of onion cut very fine. Before dinner throw the water from the shell and fill it with the hot stuffing. Grate bread crumbs over the top, with a little butter, and put it into the oven for a few minutes to brown. / COOKING FOR PROFIT. 215 HOW TO SERVE POTATOES. A grand international potato ex- hibition was opened at the Crystal Palace yesterday afternoon by Mr. Alderman and Sheriff De Keyser, in the absence of the Lord Mayor. Ten years ago an association was formed for the encouragement of potato culture, and the introduction and diffusion of improved varieties. An annual exhibition has been held, and the result has been that not only has the number of exhibits increased, but the quality of the potatoes shown has greatly improved. At yester- day's show all the leading growers were represented, and the excellence of the specimens made the task of awarding the prizes no easy one. At a luncheon Mr. Shirley Hibbard remarked that there was still a great deal of ignorance shown in putting potatoes on the table. It was the usual practice to bring them up in a porcelain dish, with a close-fitting cover. In ten minutes the best po- tatoes, however carefully cooked, were thus utterly destroyed. He recommended that they should be placed in a wooden dish or served in a porcelain dish, with towels above and below to absorb the moisture. "D. C." wishes to know how to pickle the small red and yellow to- matoes that are brought to market somewhat later in the season. If very small it U not necessary to re- move the skin, and you may proceed exactly as if for pickling peaches. Make a sirup of one quart of vinegar and seven pounds of sugar; let this come to a boil, add spices to suit your taste; put the tomatoes in a jar or in a porcelain kettle, having first re- moved the stems and wiped the fruit carefully; then pour the hot sirup over them. If you wish them for use late in the Spring it is advisable to can them, as then they will keep perfectly. If you can them, put the porcelain kettle over the front of the stove, pour the hot sirup over, and let the fruit boil gently, but do not break it in pieces. If the fruit is very ripe and inclined to be soft, steam it before pouring the sirup over it; then you may can it im- mediately. Here is Rossini's receipt for cook- ing macaroni: Take a pound of ma- caroni and three parts cook it in salt and water, after which drain it well in a colander, throw away the water, put the macaroni back again into the stewpan in which it has been dressed, pour over it half a pint of good gravy or stock, place the stewpan at the side of the fire where it may keep hot, simmer, simmer, simmer and al- ways simmer, and from time to time shake the stewpan so that the maca- roni may be turned about, but be careful not to break it; when the gravy is entirely absorbed by the macaroni, put it in layers on a silver dish (this, of course, is a question of rank, earthenware doing just as well, perhaps better), between each layer spread some grated Parmesan cheese, with sliced truffles mixed with a good Espagnole sauce, and on the top or last layer put the truffles thicker; serve hot with grated Parmesan oa a separate plate. ABOUT TRUFFLES. Truffles are subterranean in their habits, their position beneath the soil varying from two or three inches to two feet in depth. They have neither root, stem nor leaf, and are of differ- ent shades of color, from light brown to black. They are more or less 216 COOKING FOR PROFIT. globular in form and vary in size from a filbert to a large hen's egg. Their surface is knotty or warty and covered with a skin of net work which looks like veins. Truffles grow in pastures and on open downs, under trees and sometimes far away from them. They prefer loose soils and affect the neighborhood of oaks, beeches and chestnuts, but they do not thrive well in thick woods. They are common in Central and Southern Europe, particularly in this country, where the Poitou and Perigord dis- tricts are most prolific, and Italy, where Piedmont carries of the palm. The French truffles are decidedly superior to those of any country, but they vary in flavor according to lo- cality. Up in the neighborhood of Nancy or Bar-le-Duc they are gray- ish in color and nearly tasteless; down near Grenoble, Valence and Av- ignon they have a musky taste; in Burgundy they are smaller, dry and have a flavor of resin, but the Peri- gord truffle is the kind that makes one's mouth water to think of it. Did you ever eat a Perigord pie? Well, without the presence of the thin slices of the Perigord tuber that delicious pate de foie gras would lose half its value. I have a loving remembrance of the plat de resist- ance of our national Thanksgiving Day, for a truffled turkey is quite a different bird from that stuffed with bread crumbs, sausage meat, boiled chestnuts and many other things. In the northern woods they are hunted for with dogs, but down in Perigord they train pigs for this purpose. It seems tkat pigs have better noses than dogs for this work. This is because the one likes truffles better as an article of food than the other, and a good truffle-hunting hog will fetch as much as $50. Of the same fungi family as truffles are the cham- pignons, which are now also in season, but which are not so plenti- ful in France as in some parts of Russia, where they are said to form the principal staples of food with the peasantry. A BATTLE WITH WILD HOGS. An Arkansas correspondent writes: Few people are aware that there are such things as wild hogs in this country, but such is the case, how- ever little the fact may be known. Not long since James Reynolds and myself were on a deer hunting ex- pedition on one of the numerous bayous that jut into Red river in the southeastern pttt of Arkansas. We had with us two dogs, and were trailing along the bank of the bayou —the dogs some 200 or 300 yards in advance. All at once the dogs be- gan to bark, and there arose the greatest consternation imaginable. It did not take us long to determine the cause of all the commotion, as the dogs soon hove in sight, fighting and retreating toward us. Attacking them was a drove of wild, infuriated hogs, some of them so large and ferocious that a grizzly bear would be little more formidable. To say that they would strike terror to the bravest heart is but to make an as- sertion that would receive immediate credence of the reader should he ever be brought face to face with them. What was to be done? Here they came with a deafening and unearthly noise, their every bristle projecting forward, eyes maddened with, rage, froth dripping from their mouths, and their long tusks ready to rip open any one or anything that of- fered combat. I suggested to Reynolds that we give them a volley from our four COOKING FOR PROFIT. 217 barrels at once, and perhaps it would so discomfit them that they would retreat. This we did when they were about two rods from us, and although we felled some three or four to the ground and crippled others, they seemed more enraged than ever and were on us before we could reload our guns. The only thing left for us to do was to take to the water (and very fortunate for us that we had water to take to) which we immediately did. Abandoning our guns' we plunged in and swam to the opposite shore, the live dog taking kindly to our example. Some little time after they had dis- appeared among the thick timber of the bottom, we swam back to our guns. After making an examination of the hogs we had dispatched, we concluded that we had all the bottom hunting that we desired that day, and struck out for the uplands. We learned that these wild hogs abound in considerable numbers along the bottoms of Red River and tributary streams in this locality. The tusks of the largest one that we killed (an old boar) projected fully four inches from the jaw, curv- ing outward and upward from their base on the upper jaw, and upward and outward on the lower. They are frequently hunted in the fall and winter after the mast has fallen and they have become fattened on it and make, it is said, fair bacon. ABOUT TERRAPIN. Sam Ward, during his reign at Washington as king of the Lobby, used to delight in treating epicurean foreigners to a thoroughly American dinner. His bill of fare was iced clams, fish chowder, stewed terrapin, canvas-back ducks, oysters on the half shell, hominy and Albany celery, with Chateau Yquem, dry cham- pagne, and old madeira from the Gadsby stock. In purchasing terra- pin, Mr. Ward would turn with dis- dain from the yellow-bills and the sliders, and purchase the diamond backs at twenty-five dollars a dozen. Having sent them to Welcher's, he would go into the kitchen and super- intend their preparation after the following formula: Immerse the terrapin in pure spring water, boiling hot, for five minutes, to loosen the skin. The skin is then removed with a knife, thoroughly polished first to free it from any foreign substance, with a piece of chamois leather. Then replace the terrapin in the boiling water, the temperature of which should be regulated by a thermometer. When the claws be- come so soft as to pinch into a pulp by a moderate pressure between the thumb and forefinger it is sufficiently boiled. Take them out and remove the bottom shell first, as the convex- ity of the upper shell catches the rich and savory juices which distinguish the terrapin from the mudturtle and the slider. Cut off the head and claws and carefully remove the gall and sand bag. A little of the gall does not impair the flavor of the ter- rapin, but the sand bag requires the skilful touch of a surgeon, and the heart of a lion, the eye of an eagle and the hand of a lady. Cut up the remainder into pieces about a half an inch in length. Be careful to pre- serve all the juice. Put in a chafing dish and add a dressing of fine flour, the yolk of eggs boiled so hard that they are mushy, quantum sufficit of butter fresh from the dairy, salt to taste, red pepper, a large wineglass of very old Madeira (to each terra- pin) and a small quantity of rich cream. The dish, like everything else fit to eat, except Roman punch 218 COOKING FOR PROFIT. and Stilton cheese, should be served smoking hot; some persons have been known to season with spices, but this, like the rank perfume which exhales from the handkerchief of under-bred people, is apt to arouse suspicion. Terrapin should be eaten only at night and then only by very honest men. To slightly paraphrase Dr. Botaler: «A better shell fish than the terrapin might have been made, but one never was made."— "Perley" in Boston Budget. Efforts rather to preserve terra- pins than to propagate them have not yet been very successful. Ter- rapins may be kept in an enclosure from Summer to Winter, but it is at the sacrifice of their delicacy as food, penned terrapins losing their fine flavor and becoming tough and stringy. Some years ago a discovery was made as to a new method of feeding terrapins. In Washington, where some terrapins had been put in a pond, a neighboring field of clover had been cut. Some of the clover having fallen from the scythe into the pond, the terrapins were seen to eat it with the same avidity as would a cow. TERRAPIN - PISHING. "Boil your terrapin for two hours, until the skin on the legs peels off; the pick the terrapin out of the shell and remove its gall-sac; then stew, by adding a quarter of a pound of butter, a taste of red pepper and the squeeze of a half lemon; put as much water as will stew, pour in a dash of sherry, and leave the rest to nature" Thus "Tommy" Boylan, of Guy's, in Baltimore, to the artist and the writer, and there is no better autho- rity on terrapin from Savannah to the Patapsco River. Turtle may be fit for aldermen, but terrapin is food for princes, and a terrapin-stew might be served by Hebe to the immortal gods in high Olympus. Terrapin are caught from Savan- nah and Charleston up to the Pa- tapsco River at Baltimore, while the genuine "diamond-back" is only to be found in the upper Chesapeake and its tributaries. A diamond-back never measures less than seven inches in length on the under shell, a seven- inch being known as a "count ter- rapin," while anything under the length of a "count" does not count. Ten inches long and eight pounds in weight is reckoned a very large ter- rapin, the seven-inches weighing, on an average, four pounds. During the season, terrapins sell for $30 to $38 per dozen; while "sliders"—common river turtles, principally caught in the James River—which sell at from $6 to $8 per dozen, are palmed off by skill- ful restaurateurs as genuine diamond- backs on unwary but ambitious guests, at a dollar and a half the dish. The male terrapin is known as the "bull," the female as the "cow," the lady being more in request on account of her thirty eggs, which are used to garnish the delectable dish. The artist and I having consigned our lives and limbs to the custody of the darkest darkey my eyes ever alighted upon, and to the most rickety of crazy skiffs, were paddled up a small tributary of the Chesapeake Bay, situated at about six miles from Annapolis, on a terrapin-searching expedition. Having quitted the sanc- tuary of the boat for the more genial atmosphere of the mud, our darkey, who was armed with a long, thin pole, commenced to probe the bot- tom—he was wading waist-deep—or, COOKING FOR PROFIT. 219 to use the technical term, to "sound" for terrapin. His practiced sense of touch tells him when he taps terra- pin, and if they are numerous, he marks his prey, and returns to grab them with a net. On this occasion the "birds" — as bon viveurs love to call them, although terrapin is used as fish by the most devout Catholics in the severest or Lenten time—were plentiful, and our darkey, having put us ashore, very soon returned with a boat containing his mate, nets, sounding-poles, rakes and other impedimenta of his calling, a business that pays the catcher, according to luck, from $5 to $50 a week. The haul, which was watahed by a luckless fisherman with consider- able envy, proved a good one, the ground being literally cut from under the feet of the terrapin, and there were vast expansive grins, accom- panied by chuckles loud and deep, as the well-laden boat rowed back with its precious freight to the quaint old capital of Maryland. Terrapins are jealously guarded by the law, and a stringent Act exists which protects diamond-back terrapin in the waters of the State of Maryland. The fishing opens on the first of November and terminates on the thirty-first »f March. It is unlawful to catch any terrapin of a size less than five inches on the bot- tom of the shell, or to interfere with or destroy the diamond-back, terra- pin's eggs. It is stated that thirty years ago the dealers found it diffi- cult to sell terrapin at $6 a dozen, and now the difficulty lies in obtain- ing them at any price. Their num- bers are rapidly decreasing, and un- less some effective protective means are forthwith taken, a terrapin will indeed prove a rara avis in terris. Sliders are plentiful in the tribut-' aries of the Chesapeake, as also are "snappers." Turtles are fished for in this way: The fisherman plants poles, sometimes a hundred, in the middle of the stream; to each pole he fastens a line, to which is attached a hook baited with salted eel. The snapper grabs bait and hook, and is hauled up, always vicious and despe- rate. The fishermen around these trib- utaries take a thousand pounds' weight of turtle a week, which they sell at ten cents a pound. The snap- pers' eggs, about the size of marbles, are considered a great delicacy. Apropos of turtle and terrapin, the following is the menu of a perfect Maryland dinner, as arranged by "one of the knowing ones": "Four small oysters from Lyn- haven Bay; terrapin a la Maryland; canvas-back ducks; a small salad of crab and lettuce. Vegetables—baked Irish potatoes; fried hominy cakes and plain celery."—Magazine. THE CONSUMPTION OF ICE CREAM. Enormous quantities of ice cream are consumed every day in New York city in warm wether. On the Fourth of July the supply, though unusually large, was nearly exhausted by ten o clock at night. Ice cream, like ice, in old times used to be con- sidered a luxury in New York in- stead of a necessity, and old Gotham- ites recall with pleasure the memories of Vauxhall Garden, Niblo's, Castle Garden and other open-air resorts where ice cream, ices and Roman punches were served during the dog days. In those days a quarter of a dollar was considered a fair evening's investment for a young man treating a single fair friend, as the highest price for ice cream was "sixpence" a plate, and an ice was thrown in ANALYTICAL INDEX. +The Numbers Refer to the Recipe and Not to the Pages. He About whipped cream, 863. Allemande sauce, 842. Almond cake, 285. cream cake, 1079. macaroons, 457. rings and fingers, 463. Andalusian soup, 801. Angel food cake, 2. Angelica punch, 128. Apples, fried, 74. Apple pie, 25, 926, 178. dumplings, baked, 69. cobbler, 400. shortcake, 398. Apricots a la Colbert, 875. Apricotice, 164. ice cream, 950. Arabian biscoscha, 1059. Art in cutting eggs, 858. mincing parsley, 859. Artichokes to cook, 160. Asparagus on toast, 66. Aspic jelly, 692. Bacon and greens, 661. Baltimore butter pie, 577. Bananas, compote a la Rich- elieu, 1087. Banana ice cream, 1095. fritters, 1096. Barley soups, 683, 969, 727. pudding, baked, 1089. Bass, fried with bacon, 106. broiled, 666. Batter cakes, buckwheat, 104. bread, 405. clabber, cheapest, 535. corn, 407, 408. flannel, 403. graham, 406, 590. rice, 409, 647. yeast-raised, 627. Bavarian cream, 864, 865. Beans and pork, baked, 386. Boston baked in jars, 566. soup, 182, 755. Bearnaise sauce, 740. Beef . Entrees). celery, 479. chipped in cream, 643. corned in one day, 649. heart baked, 186. rib, ends of, 144. Beef, roast, 575, 170. round of for steaks, 516. soup a l’Anglaise, 659. a la mode, 10. Beefsteak, cheap, 54. cooking tough, 518. gravy, 522. individual hotel, 85. minced, 86. old fashion, 84. porterhouse, 43. potted, 591. restaurant, small, 53. sirloin, 47. tenderloin, 38. with French peas, 50. mushrooms, 48. onions, 52. oysters, 49. tomato sauce, 51. Beef tongue a l’ecarlate, 143. with horseradish, 107. Beets in sauce, 687, 638. Beet greens, 614. Beer, ginger, 472. home made, 470. molasses, 471. Beignets a la vanille, 155. souffles, 753. Bill of groceries, 520. Birdsnest pudding, 851. Biscuits, baking powder, 515. Bismarks, 271. Bisque ice creams, 205. Bisque of lobster, 1081. Blackberry meringue, 395. Black cake, rich, 836. Blanc mange, 1066. Blanquette of lamb, 602. Blueberry shortcake, 992. Boned chicken with truffles, 943. Boned turkey, 853. Bordelaise sauce, 987. Boston brown bread, 387. cream puffs, 288. Brains (see Entrees Brandy snaps, 929, 420. Bread, brown, 387. corn, fine, 599. without eggs, 626. fine wheat, 544. graham, 596. plain, 625. Brochettes of kidneys and ham, 776. Brown gravy or espagnole, 576. Brussels sprouts, 1083. Buns currant, 267. cinnamon, 268. Chelsea, 619. Butter rolls, 607. pie, 577, 617. sauce, best, 573, 574. sponge cake, 561. Cake, almond, 285. cream, 1079. angel food, 2. Arabian biscoscha, 1059. black fruit, 836. Boston cream puffs, 288. brandy snaps, 929. butter sponge, 561. chocolate, best, 894. eclairs, 296. layer, 634. meringues, 462. cocoanut eclairs, 293. macaroons, 1021. cookies, 680. citron, without eggs, 658. cookies, ginger, 418. rich, 412. good, 411. without eggs, 410, 645. cream or Washington, 299. puffs, 290, delicate, 770. dream, 622. drop, 284. Florentine, 302. frosting without eggs, 635 fruit without eggs, 681. rich, wedding, 1092. ginger sponge, 422. common, 423. nuts, 419, 421. snaps, 416, 417. wafers, 6. golden, 965. icing for, 705, 464. jelly roll, 7. jumbles, 415, 283. lady fingers, 4. layer, 633. IV. Entrees. Lobster Cutlets, 365. a la Victoria, 1026. Croquettes, 366. in Shell, 353- in vinegar, 354. Patties, a la Reine, 364. Lyonaise of Liver with Crusts, 103!). Macaroni, a la Bechamel, 173. a la Creole, 1049. ,-- a la Genoise, 972. a la Palermetane, 934. a la Rossini, 892. and Cheese, Ordinary, 585. and Tomatoes, Italienne, 65. with Creamed Cheese, 592. Minced Beefsteak, 86- Ham on Toast, 513. Turkey with Poached Eggs, 63. Mushrooms, Stewed in Wine, 121. Mussells, Stewed, 351- Mutton, a la Bretonne, 849. a la Soubise, 959. Stew, a l'lrlandaisc, 933. New England Boiled Dinner, 59. Omelet, Plain, 87. with Cheese, 91. with Ham, 90. with Jelly, 77- with Onions, 89. with Oysters, 78. with Parsley, 88. with Tomatoes, 92. Oyster Fritters, 15. Patties, a la Francaise, 329. a la Princesse, 328. a la Reine, 327- Pies, individual, 17. Pot Pie, 18. Oysters, Boston Fancy, 320. Broiled, 315- Broiled in Bacon, 317. Fried, 313. Fried in Butter, 312. . Pan Roast on Toast, 321. Scalloped, Conev Island Style, 326. Steamed, 318- Partridge Souffles in Cases, 948. Entrees. Pigeon or Squab Pie, 971. Poached Eggs, 96. Pork, Brown Stew, 101. Cutlets a la Robert, 766. Tenderloins, 73. Tenderloins with Fried Apples, 74. Potted Beefsteak, 591. Rabbit Pot Pie, Country Style, 64. Ragout of Beef, a la Creole, 906. —• of Giblets, en Croustade, 923. of Sweetbreads and Mushrooms, 172. of Veal, a la Julienne, 825. Rissolettes. a la Marseillaise, 843. Rissoles of Sweetbread with Truffles, 806- Roulade of Veal, a la Napolitaine, 871. Salmi of Grouse with Olives, 1085. Saute' of Chicken with Rissotto, 960. Scalloped Salmon, au Vin, 772. Scalloped Oysters (see Oysters). Scallops, 343. Scollops of Mutton, a la Provencale, 799. Scrambled Brains in Patties, 189. Eggs, 93. Sweetbreads with Puree of Peas, 832- Shirred Eggs, 94. Shrimp Toast, 371. 'MSmall Fillets of Beef, a la Creole, 1016. Small Patties, a la Toulouse, 790. Soft Shell Clams, Fried, 342. Crabs, 71 and 72. Spaghetti and Cheese, a la Romaine, 154. Stuffed Choulder of Mutton, 686- Stuffed Brisket of Veal, 171. Sucking Pig, a la Francaise, 1084. Sweetbreads au Beurre Noir, 824. a la Maitre d'Hotel, 651. Scrambled in Border, 673. with Green Peas, 559. Timbales of Macaroni, a la Rossini, 892. Tripe, Broiled or Fried, 75. Veal Cutlets, a la Maintenon, 1002. Cutlets, a la Milanaise, 899. Patties, a la Bechamel, 662. Pie, a la Fermiere, 882. Stew, a la Milanaise, 805. VinaigretteofBrains,alaProvencale,900 Welsh Rarebit, three ways, 908. Fish, a la Bechamel, 684. a la Cardinal, 998. Chambord, 847. Chevaliere, 670. Dieppoise, 879. l'Ecossaise, 764. Espagnole, 728. a la Genevoise, 931. Genoise, 982- Horly, 870. l'lndienne, 794. Italienne, §38. Fish a la Joinville, 897. Maitre d'Hotel, 58. Margate, 1013. Maryland, 1036. Mexico, 957- Morny, 814. Normandie, 1067- Palatka, 1055. Point Shirley, 660. Remoulade,888- Tartare, 830- Veniticnnc, 80S. Fish a la Victoria, 1026. au Courtbouillon, 786. Gratin, 757, 601- aux Fines Herbes, 737. Bisque, of, 1081. Scalloped, 772. Steaks, 58. Water Souchet, 1023. Fish, Kinds. Bass, Gljti, 747, 106. Carp, lt'82. i V. Fish, Kinds. Catfish, 1063. Codfish, 904, 56, 911. Croaker, 888. Flounder, 838. Halibut, 1036. Lake Trout, 550. Mackerel, 1043. Mackinaw Trout, 570. Muskallonge, 721. Panfish, 1018, 888. Perch, 1023. Pickrel, 606, 610, 525. Pike, 982. Redfish, 786, 847. Red Snapper, 794, 117. Salmon, 910, 757, 764, 58. Salmon Trout, 597. Sardines, 502. Sea Bass, 141. Sheephead, 870, 879. Sole, 830. Trout, 931, 670. Whitefish,822,802,184,728. Fairy gingerbread, 6. Family roast beef, 575. Fancy toast for poached eggs, 555. Farina puddings, 761 and 991. Fig creams, 438. paste, 451. Fillet of beef, 120, 41. Fillets of sole, 830. fish, 1069, 737. Floating island, 938. Florentine meringue, 302,702. Flounder, 838. Forcemeat balls, 798. for boned turkey, 855. Frangipane or pastry cream, 181. French coffee cakes, 263. cream puffs, 297. peas, 50. potato fritters, 932. rolls, 532. Fried pies, 272. Fritters, custard or fried cream 193. green corn, 817. pineapple, 833. plain, 67. potato, 932. ueen, 753. panish puff, 155. Frozen buttermilk, 1051. puddings, 219. punches, 245. Frosted grapes, 452. oranges, 454. Fruit ice creams, 211. - Calantine en bellevue, 853. Game sauce, 1074. German almond cake, 285. coffee cakes, 264. dumplings, 752. puffs, 623. sugar tops, 414. Gingerbread, cheapest, 266, 423. Ginger cake, best, 422. cookies, 418. snaps, 416,417. nuts, 419, 421. pop, 472. wafers, 6. Golden buck, 81. cake, 965. Goose roast, 148. Graham batter cakes, cheap- est, 590. pocket books, 596. rolls, 261. - Grapes, glazed with sugar,453. Grouse roast, 1073. salmi of, 1085. Guinea chicken, 984. Gumbo soup, 1054. Ham, baked, 11. broiled, 553. devilled, 741. how to cut, 552. minced, on toast, 513. roast, 12, 1070. Halibut, Maryland style, 1036. Hard sauce, 177. Hominy fried, 1037. home made, 382. Hot slav, 778. Huckleberry pudding, 937. Hulled corn, 382. ce Cream I bºiliº, 196. bisques, 205 to 210. caramel, 137. chocolate, 203. coffee, 762. corn starch, 199. cost of, 197. frozen buttermilk, 1051. frozen custard, 200, 204. New York, 201. tea, 828. white mountain, 202. Ice Creams, fruit, 211. apricot, 950. banana, 1095. cherry, red, 213. white, 212. peach, 217. pineapple, 214, 206. Ice creams, strawberry, 216 218, 1078. white grape, 215. Ice Puddings, 219. apple, 224. cocoanut, 220. Neapolitan, 227. nesselrode, 225. rice, 222. sago, 223. tapioca, 221. tutti frutti, 226. Ice Punch, 245. angelica, 128. cardinal, 254. champagne, 255. imperial, 253. kirsch, 247. maraschino, 248. roman, 246. raspberry, 250. regents, 251. strawberry, 249. Victoria, 252. Ice Sherbets, 229 to 235. Ice Water, 286. apricot, 164. cherry, 242. grape, 244. lemon, 238, 179. orange, 241. peach, 243. pineapple, 240. raspberry, 239. Iced coffee, 304. Icing and ornamenting, 464. boiled, 706 to 711. without eggs, 635, 705. Icing, pearl glaze, 3. Indian puddings, 884, 907. Italian pastes, 763. sauces, 789, 962. soup, 613. Jellies, wine and fruit, 465. Jelly, aspic, 695. corn starch, 939. calf's foot, 693. omelet, 77. ornamenting, 696. one quart, 466. roll, 7. tapioca, 928. vanilla, 835. Jumbles, 415. wafer, 283. VI. Kale or seakale, 111. Kidneys, brochettes of, 776. Kidneys sautes, 581. Kisses, chocolate, 462. egg, 460. rose, 461. star, 5. Kohl-rabi, 1075. Kromeskies, 760, 961. Lady-fingers, 4. Lamb, (see Entrees.) roast, 145, 146. Lambs tongues, 153. Lemonade, plain, 473. egg, 474. Lemon cream pies, 23, 192. honey, 506. pies, 162, 852. without eggs, 22. puddings, 1077, 827. sherbet, 179. Lima beans, 674. Lincoln pie, 393. Liver, (see Entrees.) Lobster, bisque of, 1081. cutlets, 1026, 365. croquettes, 366. in shell, 353. mayonaise, 355. vinegar, 354. on toast, 363. patties, 364. salads, 189, 356 to 363. to boil, 352. Macaroni, (see Entrees.) soup, 648. Macaroon cake, 287. Macaroons, almond, 407. cocoanut, 1021. common, 458. Mackerel, salt, 1043. Maids of honor, 605. Maraschino cream, 866. Mayonaise sauce, 151. Mead, 468, 467, 469. Measures and weights, 1. Meat block, 517. Meringues, a la creme, 460. Meringue, blackberry, 395. florentine, 702. raspberry, 604. strawberry, 195. peach, 396. paste, 459. Minced beefsteak, 86. potatoes, 82. turkey, 63. Mincemeat, 27, 29. Mince pie, 26, Mint sauce, 147. Mock turtle soup, 785. Molasses beer, 471. pound cake, 531. fruit cake, 578. Muffins, 102, 582, 646. Mulligatawney soup, 878. Mush, cracked wheat, 381. corn meal, 83, 98. oatmeal, 380, 588. Mushrooms, grades, 48. stewed in wine, 121. with steak, 48. Mussells, steamed, 349. stewed, 351. water 60uchet, 350. Mutton, (see Entrees.) leg roast, 185. Napoleon cake, 300. Neapolitan cake, 703. ice cream, 227. sauce, 775. New England boiled dinner, 59. Nesselrode ice pudding, 225. Nudels, or noodles, 564. soup, 565. Omelets, 77 to 92. Orange cake, 867. Oranges, glazed with sugar, 456. Oysters, 305 to 334 and 13 to 18. omelet, with, 78. pot pie, 18. scalloped, 323. soup, 332 stews, 307 to 311. Pain de foies gras, 860. Panachee ice cream, 701. Panfish, 1013. Partridge,souffles,in cases,948. Paste, plain pie, 20. puff, 133. suet, 31. Pastry cream, chocolate, 295. coffee, 298. corn starch, 291. or custard, 289. Patties, a la Toulouse, 790. oyster, 327. Peach cobbler, 399. ice cream, 217. meringue, 396. short cake, 397. water, ice, 243. Peaches with rice, 935. Pearl barley soup, 628. glaze, 3. Perch, water souchet, 1023. Pigeon or squab pie, 971. Pig, roast, 108. Pike, 982. Pineapple cream pie, 1009. fritters, 833. ice, 240. ice cream, 206. 1 sauce, 834. Pie, apple, 25, 178, 800, 926. apple cream, 800. butter or custard without eggs, .777. cocoanut custard, 621. white, 677. chocolate butter, 617. cherry, 665. chicken, 850, 110. pot, 1016. English fruit, 303. fried, 272. lemon, 852,22,23,162,102 mince, 28. mixed fruits, for, 885. oyster, 17, 18. pigeon, 971- pineapple cream, 1009. pumpkin, 24, 811, 630. potato cream, 964. rabbit, 64. rhubarb, 519, 114. spice, 593. squash, 24, 811, 680. sweet potato, 1020. tomato, 876. vinegar, 593. Plum pudding, 769, 901. Popovers, 623. Pork, (sec Entrees.) roast, 1001. tenderloins, 74. Porterhouse steak, 43. Potato boulettes, 898. cakes or pats, 523. cream pie, 964. croquettes, 839. crulls, 1000. salad, 718. shells or croustades, 874. soup, 528, 921. Potatoes, Algcrienne, 890. baked in milk, 514. Baden-baden, 947. Brabant, 715. browned, 157. broiled, 556. Colbert, 915. . dauphine, 804. duchesse, 831. Francaise, 612. French fried, 983. VII. Potatoes, fricasseed, 1024. frizzed, 773. astronome, 749. §. fried, 511. Hollandaise, 722. }. 729. yonaise, 563. maitre d'hotel, 174, 970. marechale, 758. mashed, 112. Monaco, 848. minced, 82, 542. Nantaise, 671. poulette, a la, 1024. Saratoga, 682. serpentine, 880. small, for garniture, 142. stewed in cream, 534. Potted tongue, 699. Pot pie dumplings, 540. Pound cake varieties, 734. fruit cake, 9. pudding, steamed, 780. Prairie chickens, 1073. Prune pudding, 919. Puffs, cream, 288. transparent, 292. French cream, 297. Puff paste, 133. Punch, Angelica, 128. cider, 476. Punches, frozen, 245. Pumpkin, 811, 812, 24. Pudding, apple, baked,69. steamed, 616. Astor House, 391. barley, baked, 1089. batter, 815. birdsnest, 851 bread, baked,390. custard, 113. and butter, sliced, 893. cabinet, baked, 1008. steamed, 1019. cherry, steamed, 176. cinnamon, boiled, 792. corn starch, baked, 689. boiled, 639. cottage, 547. cracked wheat, 392. cream curd, 538. currant suet, 809. custard, 136. baked, 512. Eve's, 675. farina, boiled, 761. baked, 991. frozen, 219. ginger, 742. gipsy, 927. golden sauce for, 743. Pudding, huckleberry roll,937. Indian, cheap, baked, 907. fruit, 161. rich, 884. lemon, boiled, 827. soufflee, 1077. Nesselrode, 225. plum, boiled, 901. baked, 769. pound, steamed, 780. prune, baked, 919. queen, 845. rice and milk, 391. baked, 594, 616. boiled, 631. frozen, 222, sago, baked, 974. boiled, 1028. frozen, 223. sponge, baked, 664. steamed fruit, cheap, 586. spice, boiled, 742. suet, boiled, 732. tapioca custard, 726. without eggs, 652. frozen, 221. tipsy, 135. West Point, 820. Yorkshire, 815. Queen cakes, 1007. fritters, 753. pudding, 845. soup, 846. Rabbits, 64, 1066. Raspberries and cream, 608. Raspberry butter sauce, 676. dumplings, 719. meringue, 604. sauce, 653. shortcake, 595. Refrigerator, good hotel, 527. Remoulade, 889. Rice batter cakes, 409, 647. cases or croustades, 924. pudding, (see Puddings.) southern style, 768. with cream, 615. Ribbon sandwiches, 945. Rissolettes, 843. Rissoles, 806. Roasting ears, 973. Rolls, corn, 286. cream, 260. French, 532. graham, 261. Roman cream, 194. punch, 246. Rose icing, 711. Rusks, 277,280, 657. Saladdressing,151,357,358. cabbage, 361. chicken, 150, 857. crab, 131, 375, 376. cucumber, 149. lobster, 189, 353 to 362. potato, 718. shrimp, 368, 369, 504. tomato, 869, 944. turkey, 150. water cress, 152. Salmon, (see Fish.) Sally lunn, 644. Sandwiches, devilledham,509. ribbon, 945. Sardines, 502. Saratoga cake, 301. chips, 682. Sauce, Allemande, 842. Apple for meats, 109. Bearnaise, 740. Bechamel, 662. Bordelaise, 987. brown gravy, 576. butter, 573. Cardinal, 999. caper, 143. champagne, 1071. Chili, 1094. Claremont, 777. courtbouillon, 786. curry, 795. diplomate, for puddings, *"; egg, 57. Bºole, 784. for apple dumplings, 70, 68. frangipane, 181. game, 1074. hard, or butter and sugar, 177. Hollandaise, 1097. Italian, brown, 789. white, 962. Mayonaise, 151. mint, 147. mustard, 1045. Neapolitan, 775. orange or Bigarrade, 130. parsley, 823. pineapple, 834. piquante, 990. remoulade, 889. Robert, 767. rum, for fritters, 156. sabayon, 754. Scotch fish, 168. shrimp, 118. , Spanish, 784. sweetveloute,for puddings, 733. VIII. Sauce, tomato, 51. Trianon, 717. veloute, 819. Venetian for fish, 803. Scotch broth, 683. cakes, 273, 274. Scallops, 343. Scalloped oysters, 326. fish, 772. Scrambled brains, 187. sweetbreads, 832, 673. Sea bass, 141. Sherbets, 229. Shortcakes, 595, 397, 398. Sheephead, 870, 879. Shrimps, 504,118, 367 to 371. Soft shell clams, 342. crabs, 373. Sour milk cheese, 388. Spaghetti, 154. Spanish sauce, 784. Sponge cake, 1090,281,975. pudding, 664. Squabs, Philadelphia, 971. Squash, fried. pie, 24, 811, 630. Squash, summer, 920, 175 Strawberry ice cream, 216, 218, 1078. meringue, 195. - punch Romaine, 249. shortcake, 397. Stuffed fish, 914. Suet pie paste, 21. Succotash, 826. Sucking pig, 108. Sweetbreads, (see Entrees.) Soup. A la mode Beef, 10. Barley a la Princesse, 727. Broth, 683. Beef, al’Anglaise, 55,659. Bisque of Lobster, 1081. Calf's Head, a la Portu- guaise, 1022. Celery Cream, 116. Clam Chowder, 344, 345. Hotel, 347, 348. Consommé Brunoise, 713. Calcutta, 829. Chatelaine, 837. Claremont, 981. Colbert, 956. De Stael, 668. Imperial, 793. Italian Pastes, 763. Jardiniere, 637. Knickerbocker, 913. Milanaise, 813. Paysanne, 1012. Print aniere Royal,868. Soup. Consomme Quenelles,896. Royal, 139. Solferino, 746. St. Xavier, 9.30. Cream a la Duchesse, 771. of Barley, 969. of Celery, 116. of Potato, 921, 528. of Rice, 600. of Tapioca, 1068. Corn, 720. and Tomato, 1035. Croute-au-Pot, 821. Croutons for, 584, 736. Gumbo, 1054. Italian, 613. Macaroni Clear, 648. Mock Turtle, 785. Mulligatawney, 878. Nudel or Noodle, 565. Ox Tail, 105. Oyster, 331 to 334. Pearl Barley, 628. Potage, Alexandrina, 997. Andalouse, 801. Bagration, 887. Conde, 755. Parmentier, 921. Reine, 546. St. Germaine, 735. Pot-au-Feu, 903. Puree of Beans, 182. Carrots, 1042. Green Peas, 735. Potatoes, 921. Tomatoes, 583. White Beans, 755. Stockboiler, 115. Tapioca Cream, 1068. Tomato, 166, 583. and Green Peas, 536. Vegetable, 140. Vermicelli, 1062. Sweet Entrees. Apple charlotte. cobbler, 400. fritters, 833. turnovers, 132. Apricots a la Colbert, 875. same ways as apples. Banana fritters, 1098. compote with rice, 1087. Blackberry meringue, 395. Boston puff fritters, 753. Compotes of fruits same as 1087. Custard fritters, 193. Creme frite, 193. Farina fritters, 1004. Pancakes with jelly, 403. Sweet Entrees. Peach cobbler, 399. meringue, 396. Peaches with rice, 935. Plain fritters with sauce,67. Pineapple fritters, 833. Queen fritters, 753. Rice croquettes with jelly, 188. Strawberry meringue, 195. Vanilla or Spanish fritters, 155. Tapioca custard pudding, 726. cream soup, 1068. frozen pudding, 221. jelly, 928. pudding without eggs, 652. Tartar sauce, 748. Tartlets, cherry, 134. maids of honor, 505. Tarts, apple, 781. gooseberry, 744. tomato, 876. Tenderloin, restaurant, 38, 39. pork, 73. Tea ice cream, 828. Tipsy pudding, 135. Tomatoes, baked, 844. catsup, 1093. mayonaise, 944. preserves, 876. salad, 869. sliced, 756. soups, 166, 536, 583. sweet, 808. with corn, 807. Timbales of macaroni, 892. Tongue, caper sauce. potted, 699. sandwiches, 698. with greens, 765. Trianon sauce, 717. Tripe, broiled or fried, 75. Trout, (see Fish.) Turkey minced, with eggs, 63. roast, 61. stuffing, 62. salad, 150. Tutti frutti, 226. Vanilla ice cream, 605. jelly, 835. Veal, (see Entrees.) stuffed fillet of, 537, 171. Vegetable soup, 140. Veloute, 819. Vinaigrette of brains, 900. Vinegar pie, 593. Vegetables. Artichokes, 160. WHITEHEAD'S HOTEL COOK BOOKS. No. I.-"THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK." (THIRD EDITION.) PEIOE, POSTPAID, $2.00. EMBRACES THE FOLLOWING: PART FIRST—The Hotel Book of Fine Pastries, Ices, Pies, Patties, Cakes, Creams, Costards, Charlottes, Jellies and Sweet Entrements in Variety. PART SECOND-The Hotel Book of Puddingi,, Souffles and Meringues. A handy Collection of Valuable Recipes, original, selected and perfected for use in Hotels and Eating Houses of every Grade. PART THIRD—The Hotel Book of Breads and Cakes; French, Vienna, Parker House, and other (tolls, Muffins, Waffles, Tea Cakes; Stock Yeast and Ferment; Yeast raised Cakes, etc., etc., as made in the best hotels. PART FOURTH—The Hotel Book of Salads and Cold Dishes, Salad Dressings, with and without oil; Salads of all kinds, how to make and how to serve them; Boned Fowls, Galantines, Aspics, etc., etc. ty The above parts are all comprised in the " American Pastry Cook," together with a large amount of valuable miscellaneous culinary matter. No. 2.-" HOTEL MEAT COOKING." (THIRD EDITION.) PBIOE, POSTPAID, $2.00. EMBRACES THE FOLLOWING: PART FIRST—The Hotel, Fish and Oyster Book' Showing all the best methods of Cooking Oysters and Fish, for Restaurant and Hotel Service, together with the appropriate Sauces and Vegetables. PART SECOND—How to Cut Meats, and Roast, Boil and Broil. The entire trade of the Hotel Meat Cutter, Roaster and Broiler, including " Short Orders," Omelets, etc. PART THIRD—The Hotel Books of Soups and Entrees, comprising specimens of French, English, and American Menus, with translations and comments. Showing how to make up Hotel Hills of Fare, with all the different varieties of Soups and Consommes in proper rotation, and a new set of entrees or "made dishes" for every day. PART FOURTH—Creole Cookery and Winter Resort Specialties. PART FIFTH—Cooks' Scrap Book—A Collection of Culinary Stories, Poems, Stray Recipes, etc., etc. Index of French Terms, an explanation and translation of all the French terms used in the Book, alphabetically arranged. &y The above parts are all comprised in "Hotel Meat Cooking," together with a large and varied selection of matter pertaining to this part of the culinary art . No. 3. "WHITEHEAD'S FAMILY COOK BOOK." PEICB, POSTPAID, SI.50. A PROFESSIONAL COOK'S BOOK FOR HOUSEHOLD USE. Consisting of a series of Menus for every-day meals, and for private entertainments, with minute instructions for making every article named. The Recipes in all these books are properly headed, numbered and indexed, for nandy reference. The author of this series.of Hotel Cook Books is a professional Cook of Thirty Years' experience, and every recipe has been tried and practically proved. The above books will be sent postpaid on receipt of price: "American Pastry Cook," $2.00; "Hotel Meat Cooking," $2.00; "Family Cook Book," $1.50. All three will be sent to one address on receipt of $5.00. Address all orders to OFFICE WITH JeMuJi Whitehead, Publisher of Hotel Cook Book*, 183 North Peoria Street, JOHN ANDERSON d CO., Booksellers and Publishers. CHICAGO, ILL. HOTEL WDRID eomz COPYRiCHTtu HOTELS BOOKS! *vvs1ivvv^%^v^wNr«»gvwv' Blank Hotel Account Books : Hotel Book-Keeping: All Kinds of Books For City and Country Hotels. -OOPYRIOHTED.- Published and Sold Exclusively by H.J. BOHN & BRO., Publishers "The Hotel World," CHICAGO. I- "X y-r > tº 3 - 1338