ri.s
A" .! )





THE NEW YORK
PUBLIC LIBRARY
968262A
ASTOR, LENOX AND
T1LDEN FWNDATIONB
ft 1933 L
LONDON:
BAYILL AND ESWAUS, PMNTEBS, CHANDOS STBSBT,
COYEST GABDEN.


; TO THE EIGHT HONOURABLE
THE EARL OF SHAFTESBURY,
BIO. BIO. ETC.
My Lord, The kind condescension which permits
the dedication of this work to one of such eminent
philanthropic sentiments as your Lordship, has a claim
upon my most profound gratitude, and more than repays
me for the time and study I have devoted to its production
With the highest consideration,
I have the honour to be, Your Lordship's most humble and
obedient servant,
ALEXIS SOYER.





PREFACE.
In the course of a long and laborious career, entirely de-
voted, both in study and practice, to the preparation of the food
of man in a manner most conducive to his health,—I have
published two works on Modern Cookery, both of a different
character, namely, 'The Gastronomic Regenerator,' adapted
for the higher class of epicures; the second, for the easy middle
class, under the title of the 'Modern Housewife.' The success
of both I gratefully acknowledge as having far exceeded my
expectations.
While actively employed, under the authority of government,
in a mission to Ireland, in the year of the famine, 1847, it struck
me that my services would be more useful to the million than
confining them, as I had hitherto done, to the wealthy few. I
immediately set to work, but soon found out.my error, that I was
merely acquainted with the manners and ways of living of the
above two classes of society, for whom I had previously catered.
Perceiving that it would be impossible to cure a disease with-
out first arriving at its cause and origin, I found that the only
course I had to pursue was to visit personally the abodes, and


viii
PREFACE.
learn the manners of those to whom I was about to address
myself, and thereby get acquainted with their wants.
My readers will easily perceive that, whilst semi-buried in my
fashionable culinary sanctorum at the Reform Club, surrounded
by the eliteof society, who daily honoured me with their visits in
that lounge of good cheer, I could not gain, through the stone
walls of that massive edifice, the slightest knowledge of Cottage
life.' ''
Determined to carry out my long thought of project, I cheer fully bade adieu to my wealthy employers, leaving them in a most
thriving condition, regretting only my fair visitors; and, like a
joyful pilgrim of the olden time, I set forth on my journey,
visiting on my route every kind of philanthropic and other use-
ful institution, but more especially the domains of that indus-
trial class, the backbone of every free country—the People,—to
whom for the present I bid farewell, leaving them in the hands
of ma chere Hortense, who will relate to them, with her usual
affability, the result of my visits through the United Kingdom.


CONTENTS PAGE
Introduction.
Letter' '. I . i • . 1
Letter . '. '. ". . '. 2
Letter . . ". ". '. f t . .4
Soups in Iron Saucepan or Stewpan . '. • 7
Gridiron '. '. . . . • .17
Fish on Gridiron . . . . • . ib.
How to Boil all kinds of Fish . . . . .21
Fish in Tin-pan in Oven . . . . .24
Fried Fish '." 26
The Three-legged Iron-pot . . . • .29
Important Observations on Curing Hams and Bacon . . 32
Lamb . . . . . . • .33
Ox-liver as used in France ". '. . • .37
French Pot-au-feu . . . . • .38
Important Remarks on Cod-liver Oil . . q .41
Carthusian of Meat and Vegetables . . • .43
General Ignorance ef the Poor in Cooking . . .46
The Gridiron and Frying-pan . . . . .48
Important Remarks on Steak and Rumpsteak . . .50
Introduction to Frying-pan . . . . .55
Fowls 62
Curious Effects of Imagination . . • • .63
Introduction to Baking Stewpan . • . .69
Hints on the Pig . . . . • .83
On Roasting ....... 88
How to Roast ...... 89
On the Economy of Roasting by Gas, Note . . . 90
Cottage Roasting . . . . • . ib.
Time-table for Roasting . . . . .91
On Meat in Baker's Oven . . • • .93
A few Hints on Baking Meat . . . . •
An Improved Baking-dish. . • . • . ib,
A Series of Receipts on Baked Meats . . . .95
Meat Puddings . . . • • .97
Meat Pies 103
Vegetables . . ..... 105
General Lesson on the Cooking of Vegetables . . • HO
Plant called the Thousand Heads . . . .112
Eggs 115
Omelettes or Fraise
OnPaiitry . 118


X • CONTENTS. PAOB
National French Cake, or Galette . . 2 .125
Introduction to Sweet and Savoury Pies , . .126
Sweet and Fruit Puddings ..... 128
Observations on Bottled Preserves . • q • 13*
Stewed Fruits . . - . . . -. HO
Sweet and Fruit Cakes . . . • .142
Bread 1*0
Sauces 1*»
Salads . '. -. . . .155
Relishes . . '. • '• '• • J/>9
Mushrooms . '. • • • • . ib.
Culinary, Miscellaneous '. • . . • 161
Pickles . . '. • .166
A few Hints on Coffee,' Tea, &c. . . . . ib.
Beverages . '. ". . . • • 168
Series of New and Cheap Drinks .... 170
On Marketing . . '. '. • • •
Kitchen Requisites 174
On the Selection of Vegetables . • . • .175
Soyer's Aerial Cooking Stove . • • ■ . ib.
Visit to the Crystal Palace '. . . . .176
IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS.
First, most of the receipts, having been especially written for the
various ordinary kitchen utensils, some of them may appear to the
reader to be repetitions, which is not the case, as the same food may
be used, yet each process will differ one from the other, from having
been cooked in a different manner.
Secondly, to obviate the reading of two or three receipts to be able
to execute one, I have made each receipt in itself as complete aspossible, as regards seasoning and proportion, and the few references I
unavoidably make will, after a little practice, become familiar to my
readers.
Many of the receipts may appear to you rather lengthy, but I
want to draw your attention to the fact, that they are more than
receipts—indeed, I may call them plain lessons, some containing a
number of receipts in one.
In some cookery books many receipts are explained in few lines,
which at first sight gives to the thing the appearance of simplicity;
but when acted on by the uninitiated are found totally impracticable.
By my plan, my readers may read and prepare the contents of two
or three lines at a time, so that when they get at the end of a lesson,
their dish will'be found well seasoned and properly cooked.


INTRODUCTORY LETTERS.
Dear Eloise,
More than a year has now elapsed
since I wrote to you, with a promise that I would send
you such receipts as should be of use to the artisan,
mechanic, and cottager. The time has, however, passed
so quickly, that I was not aware of its hasty flight, until
I took up the last edition of our "Housewife." But
still, dearest, I must say I have not lost any time; for you
will find that my letters, which have conveyed my receipts
from time to time, have been dated from almost every
county in the United Kingdom.
In the course of my peregrinations, I have made a
point of visiting the cottages and abodes of the industrious
classes generally, and have also closely examined the pecu-
liarities and manners which distinguish each county, as
well as the different kinds of labour; and I have viewed
with pleasure the exertions made by philanthropic indi-
viduals to improve the morals of the labouring class, and
render their dwellings more comfortable. But still I have
found a great want of knowledge in that one object which
produces almost as much comfort as all the rest put together,
viz., the means of making the most of that food which the
great Architect of the Heavens has so bountifully spread
before us on the face of the globe.


4 INTRODUCTORY LETTERS.
production and preparation of its food, and most heartily
do I re-echo your sentiments.
My dearest Friend,
You are right. Cookery, in our era,
has been thought beneath the attention of men of science;
and yet, was there ever a political, commercial, or even a
domestic event, but what always has been, and always will
be, celebrated either by a banquet or a dinner? And pray,
who is answerable for the comfort and conviviality of the
guests of such festivals but the cook, who has been in-
trusted with such important duties? The selection of good
and proper beverages will, of course, greatly assist the
cook's endeavours; but these may be purchased months,
or even years, before you require them, which would of
course give you an ample chance of remedying any error;
tvhile a dinner is the creation of a day and the success of
h moment. Therefore you will perceive that nothing more
disposes the heart to amicable feeling and friendly trans-
actions, than a dinner well conceived and artistically
prepared.
In ancient times, a cook, especially if a man, was looked
upon as a distinguished member of society; while now he
is, in the opinion of almost every one, a mere menial.
Still there are a few who highly appreciate the know-
ledge he possesses, especially in the higher circles, who
have classified cookery as a high art. For example, let
us see what one of the greatest chemists of the day


INTBODUCTOKY LETTERS.
s
(Liebig) says on this imperishable subject, in his valuable
work, " The Chemistry of Food," that
"Among all the arts known to man there is none which enjoys
a juster appreciation, and the products of which are more
universally admired, than that which is concerned in the pre-
paration of our food. Led by an instinct, which has almost
reached the dignity of conscious knowledge, as the unerring
guide, and by the sense of taste, which protects the health, the
experienced cook, with respect to the choice, the admixture, and
the preparation of food, has made acquisitions surpassing all
that chemical and physiological science have done in regard to
the doctrine or theory of nutrition. In soup and meat sauces,
he imitates the gastric juice; and by the cheese which closes the
banquet, he assists the action of the dissolved epithelium of the
stomach. The table, supplied with dishes, appears to the
observer like a machine, the parts of which are harmoniously
fitted together, and so arranged that, when brought into action,
a maximum of effect may be obtained by the theory of them.
The able culinary artist accompanies the sanguineous matter
with those which promote the process of solution and sanguifi-
cation, in due proportion; he avoids all kinds of unnecessary
stimuli, such as do not act in restoring the equilibrium; and he
provides the due nourishment for the child or the weak old man,
as well as for the strong of both sexes."
Such is the high eulogium paid to culinary science by
that learned man; and perhaps there is no one more able
of appreciating its value than him. Therefore I do not
yet despair of seeing the day when that science, like
others, will have its qualified professors. I now close our
labours for the present, and wait with anxiety the first
proof, which on receiving I will immediately correct and
forward to you.





8 soups.
In case bacon or ham cannot be obtained, use half a pound more
meat and a little more salt.
The meat not being overetewed, will be found excellent eaten
plain, or with parsley and butter, or any sauce.
2. Second Lesson.— Proceed exactly as No. 1. Add two
cloves and about two ounces of carrot, and the same of turnip,
leeks, celery, or a quarter of a pound of one of them, if you
cannot get the variety. To add more zest to the flavour, add
the smallest quantity of thyme, winter savory, or a bay leaf.
You are, no doubt, aware that at present, in most market towns,
an assorted lot of vegetables may be obtained at one penny per
plate, and sometimes at one halfpenny. This second lesson is
very important, as it gives you the key whereby you may vary
the flavour of every kind of soup.
Note. This broth is of a nice white colour, and should it be
required to look like sherry wine, add sufficient colouring, (see
No. 462), or half a burnt onion when it is making: these in most
large cities are now becoming common, and may be procured at the
grocers, at the cost of eightpence the pound. They will go a great
way, and if kept in a dry place will last for years.
3. Brown Gravies.—The following is very good for brown
sauce, and also for every kind of roast meat, game, or poultry;
and a gill of it may be used to give a colour to any kind of
broth, instead of colouring or burnt onions. As there is a little
difficulty to make it properly, it should only be done on particular
'occasions.
Grease the bottom of the pot with about two ounces of fat,
butter, or dripping; cut four onions in thick slices crossways, lay
them on the bottom, and place over them three pounds of leg
or shin of beef, or clod and sticking; cut it slantway in pieces,
chop the bone, then add two teaspoonfuls of salt, half a spoonful
of pepper; set it on the fire until it begins to hiss, which
indicates that all the moisture is dispersed; reduce the heat of
the fire by throwing ashes on the top; put on the pan with the
cover over. Let the onions stew until quite brown, but not
burnt, and the fat is as clear as oil, which you will easily perceive
by holding the pan or pot oh one side, the contents of which will
be smoking hot, and stick to the bottom, though not burning;
immediately add five pints of cold water; when boiling, skim
and simmer one hour; pass through the sieve, and put by till


soups 9
wanted. It will keep for many days in winter, and also in
summer, by boiling it every other day, with'the addition of half
a gill of water added to it now and then.
4. Lesson No. 2.—The remains of roast or boiled meats,
game, poultry, &e., may be added, cut up, and the bones broken,
using only half the quantity of meat. The meat may be taken
out and served separate, with a mustard or any sharp sauce.
The addition of cloves (say four), a little mace, carrots, turnips,
and celery, and a few sweet herbs, will vary the flavour of the
gravy.
5. Clear Vegetable Soup, Lesson No. 1.—Cut in small dice,
two-thirds of carrots and turnips, and one-third of onions, leeks,
and celery, altogether about half a pound; wash them well, drain,
pat into pan or iron pot, two ounces of butter or dripping, and a
teaspoonful of sugar; put on the fire, stir often; when no moisture
is to be seen add three pints of broth No. 1, simmer and skim,
until the carrots are tender, and serve. If all the above vege-
tables cannot be obtained at the same time, use the same weight
of either. Be careful that you • remove the fat from all clear
soup. All clear vegetable soup, when done, ought to partake
of a brownish colour.
6. Lesson No. 2.—The addition of a few green peas, when in
season, also small pieces of brocoli, a cauliflower, or a few
Brussels sprouts, previously boiled, makes an improvement in the
above. A little chervil and tarragon render it both pleasant
and refreshing.
7. Clear Turnip, Lesson No. 3.—Peel and cut in large dice
half a pound of turnips, put in pan with butter or fat, and a little sugar; proceed as above, Lesson No. 1, add the broth, simmer,
skim, and serve. It will not require so long doing as No. 1.
Give it a nice brown colour. If turnips are either streaky or
spongy, they will not do.
8. Jerusalem Artichokes.—Wash, peel, cut in dice, and fry as
above; when nothing but the clear fat is seen in the pan, and they
are sufficiently done, add the broth. A few minutes will cook
them.
9. Carrot Soup.—For carrots proceed as above, and simmer
till tender; they take twice as long as the artichokes doing.


10
SOUPS.
10. Vermicelli and Macaroni.—Pray, Eloise, why should not
the workman and mechanic partake of these wholesome and nu-
tritious articles of food, which have now, in consequence of those
restrictive laws on provisions having been repealed, become so
plentiful and cheap? It only requires to know how to cook them,
in order that they should become as favourite a food in these
northern climes, as they are in the southern.* Boil three pints
of the broth No. 1, break into it a quarter of a pound of
vermicelli or macaroni; boil till tender, and serve. Macaroni
takes twice as long as vermicelli doing.
Or, the macaroni can be boiled separate, and kept in salt and
water for some days, and used as required for soups and made
dishes.
11. Rice.—Wash well two ounces of common Bengal rice; boil
it gently in three pints of broth; when tender, serve.
12. Tapioca and Semolina.—In case of illness, two ounces of
tapioca or semolina may be used instead.
13. White Soup with Meat.—When the broth No. 1 is done,
skim off the fat, put the meat in the tureen, then put into a
basin two ounces of flour, mix gently with half a pint of milk,
a half teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper; add
to the broth by degrees; boil it ten minutes, and keep stirring;
skim and serve with the meat. Fried or toasted bread cut in dice
may be added.
14. Good White Mock Turtle Soup may be easily and cheaply
made thus:—Purchase a calf' s head; if large, use one half for
a day's dinner; cook as receipt No. 87; take the remains of
that, if any, with the other half, and remove the bone; cut the
meat into square pieces; add it in proportion of one pound of
meat to every four quarts of broth of No. 1; mix some flour and
milk, as above, and add it to it, and half a teaspoonful of
cayenne pepper, and four cloves; let it simmer on the fire for
one hour, tie up six sprigs of savory, same of thyme, which put
into the soup, and remove when serving. The juice of half a
lemon is an improvement, just before serving, as well as a drop of
* Macaroni is now selling in London at fivepence per pound, and
makes four pounds of food when boiled, as No. 463i


SOUPS.
11
wine, if handy. If required brown, add three tahlespoonfuls of colouring; and use water or broth for thickening, instead of milk.
The water in which the calf' s head is boiled may be kept, and
added to the stock. This soup will keep for a long time if boiled
occasionally, and a little water added; it should never be covered,
or fermentation will commence; it should be occasionally stirred
until cold. Strong stocks are more likely to turn sour than
thin ones, more particularly if they have vegetables and flour
in them; to prevent which, when this soup is kept in a basin,
leave the mouth exposed to the air,
15. Cow-heel.—Another very cheap and nutritious soup may be
made by an ox-foot or cow-heel; having bought them cleaned
and partly boiled, stew them till tender, remove the meat from
the bone, out them into nice pieces, and proceed as for mock-
turtle.
16. White Soup, with Vegetables, Sfc.—Having cut and fried
the same quantity of vegetables as No. 1, add them to the white
soup, free from meat as No. 13; simmer and skim off the fat.
Two ounces of vermicelli, macaroni, rice, &c., previously boiled,
can be used in the same way.
17. PurSe, or Thick Vegetable Soups.— Green Pea.—Put
a quart of large green peas, when cheap, in the pot or pan; with
two ounces of butter or fat, and the same of lean bacon cut
small, a middling-sized onion, little mint, two teaspoonfuls of
salt, one of sugar, half the same of pepper, a gill of water; set
on slow fire, stir now and then, or until no more moisture
remains on the bottom of the pan; add two or three tahlespoonfuls
of flour, stir round quick, and break the peas against the side of
the pan with a wooden spoon; moisten with a quart of milk and
a quart of water, simmer twenty minutes, or more if old peas,
and serve.
This, by leaving out the bacon, becomes Meagre Soup. Fried
bread, in small dice, is a good accompaniment.
If you have any broth (No. 1), use it instead of the milk and
water.
By passing the peas through a hair sieve, which is done by
breaking and pressing them with the back of the spoon, an
inviting puree is produced; after which warm up, and serve.
18. PumpkinSoup is to very favourite dish in many parts o


SOUPS.
13
It is much better passed through a hair sieve, after which warm
up again and serve.
White Carrot.—Proceed as for the red.
The Swede, Parsnip, Red and White Beet.—Proceed as for
carrot.
23. New Spring and Autumn Soup.—A most refreshing and
exquisite soup. At the end of the London season, when the
markets are full of everything, and few to partake of them, this
soup can be made as a bonne bouche:—
Wash, dry, and cut up four cabbage lettuces, and one co" ditto, a handful of sorrel, a little tarragon and chervil, and two
or three small cucumbers peeled and sliced; put into a saucepan
a quarter of a pound of butter, then set in the vegetables; put
on a slow fire, and stir often, until there is no liquid remaining;
add two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, and moisten with two
quarts of broth (No. 1) or water, and set it to boil; when boil-
ing, add a pint of green peas, two teaspoonfuls of powdered
sugar, a little pepper and salt; when the peas are tender, serve.
If you use water, increase the quantity of seasoning.
New Cock-a-Leekie.
Ma Chere Amie,—With all due respect to Scotch cookery, I will
always give the preference, in the way of soup, to their cock-a-leekie,
even before their inimitable hodge-podge. Having a very old friend,
from the neighbourhood of Dundee, who used to praise my cock-a-
leekie, when on a visit to St. John's Wood, I thought I would give
him the same treat here, and on looking over my frugal store and
garden of Camellia Cottage, I found I had all that was required,
barring the bird; but, with a little perseverance and ingenuity, I
succeeded in producing a very nice soup, although it wanted the
principal ingredient, so that it deceived not only my husband, but
my friend from the other side of the Tweed. Here is the receipt:
24. —I bought two pounds of veal cutlet, and cut it into
pieces, like the flesh from the breast of a fowl, and put them in
the pan with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean
bacon, three cloves, two good onions sliced, two teaspoonfuls of
salt, one of sugar, half a one of pepper,.a gill of water; set is on the fire, turn it over until forming a white glaze at the
bottom, add to it five pints of water, simmer half an hour, pass through a sieve, save the best pieces of the veal. In the mean-


14
SOUPS.
time blanch two pounds of leeks, free from the top green part,
for ten minutes, in a gallon of water, and drain them; then boil
the stock and half the leeks together, till almost in a pulp, then
add the other half of the leeks and the meat, also eighteen good
fresh French plums; simmer half an hour, and serve.
I must observe that my friend praised it very much for having
put in the flesh of the fowl only, as he thought, and not the
whole carcase, which is the way they serve it in Scotland; an
exceedingly inconvenient way, as everybody expects a piece ot
the fowl, and you often tear it to pieces in serving.
85. Simplified Hodge-Podge.— Cut two pounds of fresh
scrag of mutton into small pieces, which put into a stewpan,
with three quarts of cold water, and a tablespoonful of salt, one
ditto of sugar, half a ditto of pepper; set it on the fire; when
boiling, place it at the side to simmer for one hour; keep it
skimmed; well wash a large carrots, two turnips, two onions,
and six small cabbage lettuces; cut them up, and place in the
pot, and simmer till done. A pint of green peas, if in season,
may be added. A carrot grated is an improvement. If in
winter, use cabbage instead of lettuce. Serve the meat with it.
26. Various Meat Soups.—Griblet.—These should be pro-
cured ready cleaned, but if not, they must bo scalded; when
done, cut them into about twelve pieces, wash them well, and
dry in a cloth; put into a pan B quarter of a pound of butter o/
dripping, set it on the fire, melt it, then add four ounces of flour,stir continually until it begins to brown, add two ounces of lean
bacon, and two onions or leeks, sliced, fry a few minutes longer,
put in the giblets, fry gently for ten minutes, stirring now and
then, pour over two quarts of water, stir till boiling, and set it
to simmer; then add two teaspoonfuls of salt, half one of pepper
one of sugar, three cloves, a little thyme, bay leaf, and about a
quarter of a pound of celery well washed and cut up small;
continue simmering until the giblets are tender, remove the fat,
and serve. A wineglass of sherry and a little cayenne may
be added. A pound of beef or veal is, of course, a great im-
provement. This receipt is for the giblets of a middle-sized
turkey.


SOUPS.
15
27. Hare Soup.
My dear Eloise,—Since the alteration in our circumstances I have
learnt to practise the most rigid economy, which you will remark in
this receipt. When I buy a hare, as I sometimes do, for two shil-
lings, skinning it myself, and selling the skin for fourpence, I save
all the blood in a pie-dish, take out the heart and liver, removing the
gall; I then cut the hare into two, across the back, close to the last
ribs, and cut this part into pieces, using it for soup, and the hindpart
I keep for roasting the following day.
28. Hare Soup.—I then proceed as for giblet soup, only
using half a pound of either veal, beef, or mutton, cut into dice,
and put in the pot with the hare. Fifteen minutes before
serving, I mix the blood with the heart and liver, which I have
chopped fine, and boil it up ten minutes; skim and serve. The
addition of a little brown sugar and a glass of port wine is an
improvement: if no wine, a little stout or porter will improve it.
It ought to be of a dark brown colour, for which use colouring.
29. Ox Tail.—Cut them at the joints, and proceed as for
giblets, adding one pint more water for two small tails, and
simmer half an hour longer, or till done. This should be of a
brown colour. Vegetables cut into dice may be added. Serve
when tender: some will take double the time cooking, according
to size.
30. Ox Cheek.—Boil half a large cheek for twenty minutes
in two quarts of water, to set it; take it out, cut it into thin
slices, or small pieces, and then proceed exactly as for giblets.
Serve when tender.
31. Simplified Mulligatawny, quickly done. Lesson 1.—
cut in small dice two pounds of leg of veal, no hone, then
put in the pan with two ounces of salt butter, two teaspoonfuls
of salt, a quarter that of pepper, a quarter of a pound of onions
sliced, and a wine-glass of water. Put it in the pan and place
on the fire, stir it about until nearly dry; two ounces of bacon or
ham is an improvement; then add a good teaspoonful and a half
of curry powder, four of flour, and one of brown sugar; moisten
with five pints of water, simmer for an hour or a little longer,
skim, and serve. Half a pound of rice, as No. 4G3, may be served
either with it or separate.


1C
SOUPS.
Lesson 2.—To the above may be added a small apple, cut in
thin slices, also any other meat may be used, instead of veal,
and a little bunch of aromatic herbs; the meat to remain in the
soup.
32. New Mutton Broth.—Cut two pounds of the scrag, or
any other lean part of mutton, in ten or twelve pieces, put in a
pan with two ounces of fat, two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of
pepper, a gill of water, two middle-sized onions, a good teacupful
of pearl barley. Set it on the fire, stir round until it is reduced,
moisten with five pints of water, boil, and skim, simmer two
hours; and serve.
33. Potato Soup.—Proceed as above, omit the bailey, add
two pounds of potatoes, peeled and cut in slices, put them in
when the broth is boiling; simmer till in pulp, and serve. A
few sprigs of parsley, or the flowers of four marigolds, is an
improvement, and, at the same time, an agreeable change.
34. Ox Tail Soup in Baking Pan.—Divide two ox tails,
wash them well in cold water, then put them in the pan, with
three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, four cloves, a little
thyme, if handy, two good onions; add three quarts of water,
two tablespoonfuls of colouring; put on the cover, place it in a
moderate oven for three hours to simmer, take off the fat, which
save for use, and serve. Half a pound of any vegetable, mixed
or not, cut in dice, can be added with advantage.
M. Ox Cheek in Baking Pan.—Get half a one ready boned,
if not to be had, get the half head with the bone, in which case
they should be broken small and put in the broth; but it gives
more trouble than it is worth. The solid meat at threepence
per pound is more economical. Wash it well, cut off the white
part, put the cheek in the pan, and proceed exactly as above;
only give it three or four hours to bake. A little mixed spice
improves the flavour. Take the fat off, remove the meat, cut it
into small pieces, put it into the tureen, and pour the broth over.
36. Cheap Pea Soup.—Put into the iron pot two ounces of
dripping, one quarter of a pound of bacon, cut into dice, two
good onions sliced; fry them gently until brownish, then add
one large or two small turnips, the same of carrots, one leek,
and one head of celery, all cut thin and slanting (if all these


FISH ON GRIDIRON.
17
cannot be obtained, use any of them, but about the same amount);
fty for ten minutes more, and then add seven quarts of
water; boil up, and add one pound and a half of split peas;
simmer for two' or three hours, until reduced to a pulp, which
depends on the quality of the pea, then add two tablespoonfuls
of salt, one of sugar, one of dried mint; mix half a pound of
flour smooth in a pint of water, stir it well; pour in the soup,
boil thirty minutes, and serve.
37. The above Meagre.— Precisely as above, only oil or
butter used instead of bacon or dripping: skim-milk could
with advantage be used, in which case add three ounces of salt.
Although this is entirely deprived of animal substances, yet the
farinaceous ingredients, with the addition of bread, will act
generously on the digestive organs, satisfying the heartiest eater.
GRIDIRON.
With this primitive utensil a great deal may be done in the way of
cooking, but it requires care, or otherwise great loss of food and
money will be sustained; a few minutes' constant attention, when the
article is on the gridiron, will save at least twenty per cent., and the
palate will feel more gratified.
I use two kinds of gridirons, each costing very little; one is of cast
iron, to go on the fire, and the other is of iron wire, made double, to
hang from the bar ot the grate before the fire, made so as not to too
much press the object cooked within it. The principal care in this,
as in all kitchen utensils, is never to put them away dirty; always
wiping the gridiron after it has been used, and again before you use
it, and a place kept where it should be hung.
WHAT I CAN COOK WITH MY GRIDIRON.
Firstly, Fish, nearly all sorts, both dried and fresh, either whole or
in pieces. I shall not begin with the king of the ocean, but with
one of the most humble of its inhabitants, and which daily gratifies
the palates of millions; it is—'
The Plain Med Herring.—Though we have agreed to make use of
every kind of eatable food, it is still important to point out the best


18
quality first, for I must tell you, that the quality of herring* varies
as much, if not more, than any other kind of food; the proper way of
curing them being as important to know as the quality of the flesh
itself. This unassuming kind of fish, which we may venture to call the
poor man's friend, ought to be chosen plump, though not too full of
roe, as when they have large roes they are sure to be oily, and cannot
have taken the salt properly; they feel softish to the touch, eat stringy,
and sometimes decay, and emit a bad smell while cooking; these
are unwholesome: but if hard and firm, the flesh reddish, the roe well
set, and smell sweet, they are good. The only drawback is that they
might be too salt, which cannot be avoided, only by cutting the back
up, and soaking them in lukewarm water for a few hours, aud when
taken out well dried on a cloth, previous to their being cooked. But
the way to ascertain if a herring is too salt, is to take the fish in the
left hand, and pull out a few of the fins from the back, and taste;
you may thus find out the quality and flavour. This plan is adopted
by large dealers.
38. Wipe your herring; dry it well in a cloth: you may
slightly split the back, or make a few incisions crossways; rub it with flour, or dress it plainly, by placing the herring on the
gridiron about six inches over a clear fire, or before it; turn
them often, and in five minutes they may be done, according to
size.
Or, when it is done, mix a piece of hutter with a little mustard
together, and place inside of it, or rub it over. By opening the
hack, it will do much quicker; but to keep the essence in it, it
should be done whole.
Or, butter and chopped parsley, and a little vinegar or lemon
juice.
Or, butter and chopped fennel and onions, very fine.
Or, cut off the head, open it up the back with a knife, and
remove the back hone of the herring; put in about one ounce
of butter and chopped parsley, with a slight tint of onion.
Fold two herrings together in some paper, so that the fat does
not escape; boil gently for nearly twenty minutes, and serve.
The butter is to be inclosed between the two herrings.
The same plan with a bloater and a fresh herring dressed
together is first-rate.
39. Fresh Herrings.—These should be cleaned and scaled,
the head removed, opened on the back, and the gut taken out.
Make three slight incisions on each side, throw some pepper and


ttSH ON GRIDIRON.
19
salt over it, broil for ten minutes, and serve plain, or with either
plain melted butter or fish sauce.
Or, a little mixed pickle chopped fine, with melted butter,
also makes a good sauce for herrings.
40. Haddock.—A fine Finnan haddock should be rubbed with
butter, and plain broiled before the fire for ten minutes, or more
if rather large, keeping it of a yellowish colour, and turning it
occasionally. If very salt, steep it in water for one hour; beat
the thick side down, and broil gently.
Another Way.—Cut a middling-sized haddock in six piecetj
which wash in cold water, take them out, and place them either
in a bason or pan, then pour over about a quart of boiling water,
covering your bason or pan over, so that no steam can escape;
after your haddock has steamed ten minutes, take it out, place
on a dish, rub over with butter, sprinkle a little pepper over,
and serve.
Sprats and pickled herrings can also be done this way, as
likewise Bmoked salmon; you may vary the flavour of this
simple dish, by adding either a little chives, thyme, winter
savory, bayleaf, parsley, eschalots, or onions.
41. Whitings, Fresh, should be merely cleaned, cut on each
side, rubbed over with salt, pepper, and flour, and broiled for
seven to ten minutes. Serve with melted butter, or without,
adding a little vinegar or lemon in the sauce.
42. Mackerel.—Cut off the point of the head, open it at the
back, keep it open flat. Pepper and salt, and fennel, if handy;
place it between the fish, broil gently for ten minutes, and serve
with either melted butter, or parsley and butter, or black butter
sauce. (See No. 425 a.)
43. —Cut as above, open it on the back, chop Tip a small piece
of fat bacon, with some parsley, one eschalot, or a small onion;
add a teaspoonful of vinegar; fill the inside with this stuffing.
Close it again; tie it round with a string, broil very gently for
twelve to fifteen minutes: it depends on the fire and size.
Serve plain.
44. —Prepare it as above, and put it into a pie dish, with
• vinegar, salt, pepper, and slices of onion, for an hour, and broil
as before.


20
FISH ON GMDIRON.
45. —Get a tin baking dish, and put into it some, chives chopped fine, some parsley, salt, pepper, a little vinegar, and
about one ounce of butter or lard: put the mackerel, cut open
at the back, and divided in six pieces; place it on the gridiron,
turn the pieces, and in about twenty minutes they are done.
Serve it on the tin dish. Onions may be used.
46. —It may be put into paper, like the herring, No. 38, and
served without any sauce.
Small fresh-water fish, such as tench, pike, perch, barbel, &C., may be done like mackerel.
47. Small Soles and Flounders are very good when nicely
broiled in the double gridiron before a clear fire; the time
depends on the size and the state of the fire: they should be rubbed with salt, pepper, and flour.
48. Salmon, Salted, should be cut in small slices, of about
one quarter of a pound each, slantways, rubbed with either butter
or oil, and broiled gently. Serve plain, or can be broiled, wrapped
up in oil paper.
49. Eels, Dried.—Steep them in water and vinegar for twelve
hours, rub them with butter, cut them into pieces four inches
long; broil gently, and serve. These are rather scarce, but very
good thus.
50. Eels, Fresh.—Skin and cut them into lengths of four to
five inches; broil gently for seven to ten minutes; have some
parsley chopped fine, which mix with some butter, and put a
little in each piece, and serve very hot. They may also be egged
and bread-crammed (see Fried Eels), or with plain sauce.
51. Ling, Fresh.—Take about a pound of ling, cut it into
slices of about three-quarters of an inch thick, rub it with pepper
and salt, and put it on the gridiron over a clear fire; in about
ten minutes it will be done. Serve it plain, or with a little
melted butter and chopped parsley, lemon or vinegar, or with
a little piece of the liver chopped up and boiled in the sauce.
Turbot, brill, hake, halibut, plaice, or cod, may be cooked
the same way, either over or before the fire.


FISH BOILED IN POT, PAN, OR STEW-PAN
21
HOW TO BOIL ALL KINDS OF FISH, EITHER WHOLE
OR IN SLICES.
GENERAL RECEIPTS.
In all processes of cooking that which appears the simplest is
generally the most neglected, or at best but carelessly done. Many
persons, unacquainted with the subject, would imagine that the boiling
of fish is so simple, that it merely requires to be put on the fire in a
saucepan full of water, and let simmer or boil until it has lost its
transparency, to be fit to eat. To those who are careless and extra-
vagant, this process may answer very well; they know no better, and
do not care to improve; but to the careful housewife, who wishes to
make every penny go as far as possible, by retaining in every article
of food she cooks the flavour and succulence it possesses (which is, in
fact, the basis of economical and perfect cookery, no matter how
simple it may be), the following simple receipt, if carefully followed,
will greatly assist:—
First of all, let us remember that all large fish, with the skin
whole, must be placed on the fire in cold water; if crimped, or cut in
slices or pieces, in boiling water; if whole, it must not be covered
with more than two or three inches of water, or the skin will crack,
and not only spoil the appearance of the fish, but will diminish the
gelatine and gluten it contains, and instead of eating firm and full of
flavour, it will be soft and woolly, especially if overboiled.
For all kinds of fish, to every quart of water put two teaspoonfuls
of salt; and if the fish be whole, as soon as it begins to boil, remove
the cover on one side, and let simmer gently till quite done, calcu-
lating the time according to the size and quality, which vary so
much, that it would be quite impossible to say, "Take a cod, turbot, or salmon, or any other fish weighing so many pounds, and boil so
long;" for according to its quality, the process of cooking will act
upon it, and therefore in all the following receipts we must make
use of the word about with regard to time, but by all means do it
rather over than under. If large fish, I generally try it by gently
pushing a wooden skewer through the thickest part; if it goes
in easily, it is done.
How to ascertain if Fish, whether boiled, stewed, or fried, is done.
—If the bone sticks firm to the flesh, or the flesh to the bone, it is
not done; by the same rule, if quite loose, and the flesh of the fish
drops off the bone, it is overdone, and you lose some of its qualities.
For fish in slices try the bone with your knife; ,f the flesh comes
from it, it is done; or by placing the point of a knife between the


22 FISH BOILED IN POT, PAN, OR STEW-PAS.
flesh and the bone, and on raising it, if done, the knife will part it
easily.
To boil fish whole, such as turbot, plaice, large soles, salmon, cod,
trout, pike, or any such like fish, it is requisite to have a drainer at
the bottom of the kettle, or you will be sure to break your fish to
pieces; and as the cottage of a working man is seldom furnished
with cooking utensils of this nature, let him cut his large fish in
pieces, or boil only small ones; but as, no doubt, the middle classes
of society will buy largely of this our last work, I think I am in duty
bound, Eloise, to give the following receipt, which, without the fore-
going explanation, might seem to you out of place.
62. To boil Brill.—Place your fish in the pan, letting it lay
on the strainer; rub it over with six teaspoonfuls of salt—it
will make it firmer, then add six pints of cold water, or enough
to cover the fish; put your pan on the fire, and when it com-
mences to boil, put the lid slightly on one side, and let simmer
till done. A brill of about five or six pounds will be done in
half an hour after boiling. When sufficiently cooked, lay hold
of both ends of the drainer, lift your fish out, and let it lay on
the top of the kettle for two or three minutes, then slip it on
your dish on a napkin, and garnish round with parsley, if any.
If your fish weighs from three to four pounds, it will take from
twenty-five to thirty minutes doing on a moderate fire. Anchovy,
shrimp, lobster, or lemon sauce, may be used.
53. Turbot. — Make two incisions with a knife across the
back—it prevents the white skin on the top cracking; rub it
with the juice of a lemon and salt previous to putting the
water over; let it lay about three inches under water. A turbot
of seven or eight pounds will take about three quarters of an
hour doing, after the water commences boiling; one of fifteen
pounds, one hour and thirty minutes. Serve with either of the
above sauces, or cream sauce No. 424.
64. Salmon.—X salmon weighing ten pounds will take one
hour gently simmering when the water commences boiling.
Head and shoulders of six pounds, forty minutes; cod fish of
the same weight as the salmon, fifteen minutes less; cod's head
and shoulders, ten minutes less; conger eels, hake, ling, same
time as cod. The liver and roe of any of the above-named fish
we very good when boiled and served with them.
Gurnet, pike, barbel, and carp are boiled the same way. If


FISH BOILED IN POT, PAN, OR STEW-PAN. 23
»ither the turbot, salmon, or cod is crimped, it will take less
time to boil, and should be put in boiling water, timing it in
proportion to the other fish that has been put in cold water.
55. How to boil Sliced Fish.—To every pint of water put a
teaspoonful of salt; when boiling, add your fish, of whatever
kind it may be, calculating that a pound of any sort of fish will
take from fifteen to twenty minutes; but ascertain if the bone
separates easily from the flesh, as described in the preceding direc-
tions. Halibut and sturgeon will take longer than any other fish,
plaice less than any. Any fish cut in slices will always eat firmer
and better if rubbed, previous to boiling, with the quantity of salt
you otherwise put in the water; therefore boil the water plain,
adding the fish and salt at the same time. Mackerel will take
from fifteen to twenty minutes; trout and haddocks of the size
of a mackerel, a little longer; herrings, from twelve to fifteen
minutes; skate, a trifling time longer; adding a drop of vinegar
in the water to any of the above fish is an improvement.
56. New way of boiling Fish.—The addition of a few herbs
and vegetables in the water gives a very nice flavour to the fish.
Add, according to taste, a little sliced onions, thyme, bayleaf,
winter savory, carrots, celery, clove, mace, using whichever of
these ingredients you can procure; it greatly improves skate,
fresh haddocks, gurnet, &c Fresh-water fish, which have no
particular flavour, are preferable done thus, with the addition
of a little vinegar. Choose whatever sauces you please for
any of the above fish, from the series at No. 411.
57. Salt Fish, Cod, Zing, and Cod-Sounds.—Soak two
pounds of salt fish for six hours, if not previously soaked, or
according to the cure; put them in boiling water, in which some
parsnips have been previously boiled. Twenty minutes, if the
fish is thick, will be sufficient; and serve with egg-sauce
No. 411. Proceed the same with cod-sounds.
Fresh-water Fish.—These are not much esteemed amongst
the many, although some are excellent eating, and much in use
on the continent.
68. Tench and perch must be well sealed and cleaned, and pti
into the pan with a pint of water and the teaspoonful of salt, one
onion, sliced, three sprigs of thyme, bay-leaf, pepper, parsiey.
c


FISH IN TIN PAN IN OVEN.
celery, all in proportion; a wine-glass of vinegar. If they weigh
one pound boil for half an hour, according to size. Serve with
any fish-sauce.
59. Eels may be done as above, with a little scraped horse-
radish, and served with parsley and butter. Pike and carp may
be boiled in the same way. If no herbs or vegetables, boil in
plain salt and water; but the above is a great improvement.
Fish in Oven, in Tin Dish.—A long square tin dish, like
those for baking, may be used for this excellent mode of cooking
fish, by which all the flavour and succulence of it is preserved.
They may be had of all sizes, and at a very trifling expense.
60. Lesson 1.—Scale and clean a sole, dry it well, chop up half
an ounce of onions rather small, put in the dish one ounce of either
butter, dripping, or oil, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley and
onions at the bottom; lay the sole over, season with pepper and
salt; mix the remainder of the chopped onions and parsley with
some bread crumbs, and cover the sole with them, adding three
or four pieces of butter or fat over, and a wineglassful of either
wine, ale, or broth, or even water underneath; put the dish in
the oven or before the fire until done: a large sole will take about
an hour. In case the oven is not hot enough to brown the top,
put the shovel in the fire until it is red-hot, and hold over it.
Serve in the tin. The oven is far better than the front of a
fire.
Plaice may be done the same way, or cut in slices, only it
takes longer doing.
61. Whiting are done the same way, but require a sharp oven,
or they will turn watery. Weaver may be done in the same
manner.
Conger Eels:— Cut four slices, half an inch thick, dry well,
dip each piece into flour, and proceed precisely as for soles. A
little grated horseradish and a little spice will vary the flavour.
62. Lesson 2.—Codfish, Halibut, Ling, Make, Sturgeon, and
Haddoch may be done in the same way; and a little stuffing, No.
466, may be used for every one of them, especially cod-liver
stuffing.
C3. Lesson 3.—The remains of boiled fish may always be
done in this way. A few spoonfuls of melted butter added over


FISH IN TIN PAN IN OVEN.
any of the above fish, before the bread crumbs, makes a change;
it eats more delicate, and gives very little more trouble.
64. Another Way.—Place any of the above fish in the dish,
omitting the onions, if not liked; add a few herbs or chopped
mushrooms instead; and make the following—
65. Sauce.—Put in a pan a quarter of a pound of flour,
moisten with a pint and a hah? of milk or skim-milk, add three
parts of a teaspoonfol of salt, the same of pepper, mix all smooth,
add a little mixed spice, or two cloves, grated nutmeg, one onion
cut in four, set on the fire, stir continually, and boil twenty
minutes; it must be rather thick; take out the onions and cloves,
add to the sauce four ounces of butter, mix it well, pour over the
fish, and bake as above: a little parsley, chopped, and thrown
over before sending to table, improves the appearance, and a
little grated cheese thrown over previous to placing in the oven,
gives a nice yellow look, and this will be much liked. The
sauce can be made and kept for some days without spoiling.
This sauce is nice with every kind of white fish. Breadcrumb may be put over the sauce before cooking. The remains of
previously cooked fish may be dressed in this way.
66. Salihut, Conger, Sake, and Zing{receipt for four
pounds of fish).—Season either of the above rather strong with
two teaspoonfuls of salt, half the same of pepper, the same of
ground ginger, and two teaspoonfuls of chopped onions. Put
two ounces of fat in a deep tin pan, lay the fish on it, mix two
ounces of flour with a pint of milk; when smooth pour over the
fish, bake for an hour, and serve.
67. Plaice and large Gurnets.—The flesh cut from the bone
maybe done as above. They all require to be well done. Any
of the above dishes may be surrounded by a border of either
mashed potatoes or boiled rice.
68. In Oven.—Small Fish.—Put in a. deep pan four tea-
spoonfuls of onions chopped, half a pint of melted butter, a gill
of vinegar; lay over six pounds of any common fish, season over
with two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper; place it in the
oven for twenty minutes, then turn it, baste it with the sauce
now and then; dish it up, and pour sauce over, or serve in the
pan; if the sauce should be too thin, boil on the fire till it gets
of a thickish substance.


26
FISH IN FRYINCHPAK.
69. Mackerel in Pie Dish.—Open two or three mackerel on
the back, cut off the tail and head, rub the inside and outside
with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley; mix in a bason half a
pint of melted butter, No. 410, add to it a teaspoonful of chopped
fennel and parsley, and a tablespooni'ul of vinegar; put the fish
in the dish, pour the sauce over, and well hread-crumh it; put
it in the oven for half an hour or more, and serve. The roe may
be left in the fish, or chopped up and mixed with the sauce.
Balls of cod-liver may be added.
70. Pickled Mackerel, Plain Way.—Cut two onions in thin
slices, mix with salt and pepper and a little mixed spice or
peppercorn; then have four mackerel ready, with the gills and
gut removed, but not cut; put a little of the onions inside, and
rub the outside with them; and then rub them with flour, put
them in the dish, put in the remainder of the onions, add half a
pint of vinegar and a gill of water; bake in a slow oven for one
hour; use cold. They will keep a long time.
71. Fresh Herrings, Sprats, and Smelts may all be done the
same way, only they require less time to bake. Any other kind of
fish, if in small pieces, may be done this way, and is excellent in
summer with salad. The flavour or the pickling may be im-
proved by adding three cloves, two blades of mace, some pepper-
corns, a little garlic, and some sweet-herbs, according to taste.
FRIED FISH.
The great art in trying fish is, to have it free from grease, and
in that state it is one of the most delicate descriptions of food that
can be given to the invalid, and at the same time the most nourish-
ing. The sudden immersion in the fat solidifies the albumen in the
flesh of the fish, and renders it easy of digestion; the coating of bread-
crumbs prevents the fat penetrating into the fish, and when eaten by
the invalid, the skin should be removed, and only the white flesh
partaken of.
The great point is to have plenty of fat in the pan, for it is not
wasted, far from it. If it is kept at a proper degree of heat, in the
same pan a sole may be fried, and at the same time an apple fritter;
neither will taste of the other, proving that the high degree of heat
in the fat prevents the flavour of the object immersed in it escaping.


FISH IN FRYING-PAN.
27
72. Fried Sole.—Put a pound or two of fat into a deep
frying-pan; whilst it is getting hot, take a sole, of course cleaned,
cut off the fins and tail, wipe it with a cloth, egg it, and cover
with bread-crumbs all over, shake off the loose crumbs, and
press it, and lay the sole in the fat, the white part, or belly,
downwards; the fat must be at a proper heat, which is ascer-
tained by throwing a pinch of crumb into it; if it hisses, it is ready;
if it burns, it is over-done; if of a nice colour it will do. Turn
it once while doing. A middle-sized sole will take ten minutes.
Take it out, place it on a cloth; if any fat is on it, it will come
off. Dish it on a napkin, on which it hardly ought to show
a spot of grease. This receipt is applicable to all kinds of fish;
but large round fish should not be fried whole, only the fillets, or
thin slices. Whitings may be fried whole, like sole, and will
take about ten minutes; flounders, about five or six minutes;
smelts, gudgeons, four or five minutes. The last should be fried
as few as possible at a time, and served crisp.
73. Large soles, plaice, cod, halibut, conger eels, ling, hake,
weaver, should all be fried in fillets, or thin slices; the sole should
be cut down the back bone; then run the knife under the flesh,
close to the bone, and cut it off; thus each sole will make four
fillets; or they may be cut across in pieces of three inches, with
the bone in.
74. Plaice do in the same way, cut in pieces one inch wide.
Cod should be filleted lengthways, or in slices. Hake, haddock,
and garnet, the same; halibut, ling, and conger eel, in very thin
slices, that is, not more than half an inch thick. Salt should be
sprinkled over them half an hour previous. All these should
be egged and bread-crumbed, as described in sole. All fish
, cooked in this way are excellent cold, as a salad, in summer.
Slices should be broken, or cut, for about a pound of fish, and
put into a bowl, with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, four of
oil, half do. of chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful of salt, quarter
do. of pepper. Toss it up well, that it may mix; it is very
cooling, and makes a light supper. A little fresh salad, an lettuce,
endive, &C., makes it still more so. Slices of cooked potatoes,
lentils, and haricots, may be introduced.


FISH IN FRYING-PAN.
76. Fried Fish, Jewish Fashion.
This is another excellent way of frying fish, which is constantly in
use by the children of Israel, and I cannot recommend it too highly;
bo much so, that various kinds of fish which many people despise, are
excellent cooked by this process; in eating them many persons are
deceived, and would suppose them to be the most expensive of fish. The
process is at once simple, effective, and economical; not that I would
recommend it for invalids, as the process imbibes some of the fat,
which, however palatable, would not do for the dyspeptic or in-
valid.
76. Proceed thus:—Cut one or two pounds of halibut in one
piece, lay it in a dish, cover the top with a little salt, put some
water in the dish, but not to cover the fish; let it remain thus
for one hour. The water being below, causes the salt to pene-
trate into the fish. Take it out and dry it; cut out the bone,
and the fins off; it is then in two pieces. Lay the pieces on
the side, and divide them into slices half an inch thick; put
into a frying pan, with a quarter of a pound of fat, lard, or
dripping (the Jews use oil); then put two ounces of flour into a
soup-plate, or basin, which mix with water, to form a smooth
batter, not too thick. Dip the fish in it, that the pieces are
well covered, then have the fat, not too hot, put the pieces in it,
and fry till a nice colour, turning them over. When done, take
it out with a slice, let it drain, dish up, and serve. Any kind
of sauce that is liked may be used with it; but plain, with a
little salt and lemon, is excellent. This fish is often only three-
pence to fourpence per pound; it containing but little bone
renders it very economical. It is excellent cold, and can be
eaten with oil, vinegar, and cucumbers, in summer time, and is
exceedingly cooling. An egg is an improvement in the batter.
The same fish as before mentioned as fit for frying, may be
fried in this manner. Eels are excellent done so; the batter
absorbs the oil which is in them.
Flounders may also be done in this way. A little salt should
be sprinkled over before serving.
77. In some Jewish families all this kind of fish is fried in
oil, and dipped in batter, as described above. In some families
they dip the fish first in flour, and then in egg, and fry in oil.
This plan is superior to that fried in fat or dripping, but more
expensive.


TAEIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON POT. 29
Many of the above-mentioned families have stated days on
which they fry, or stew their fish, which will keep good several days in summer, and I may almost say, weeks in winter; and being generally eaten cold, it saves them a deal of cooking. Still
I must say that there is nothing like a hot dinner.
THE THREE-LEGGED IRON POT.
INTRODUCTION.
Deadest FErEND,—You are aware that every cottage throughout
the land has a peculiarity in cookery and cooking utensils, which
nothing can alter. One of them has a great claim on our gratitude,
which neither time nor place can erase. War, famine, epidemic,
revolutions, which have from time to time shaken the foundation of
mighty empires, has not caused a wrinkle to appear on his noble brow even in this miraculous age of discovery, which has created
railways, steam, electricity, photography, and by the last powerful
agent we are actually enabled to take the strongest fortifications
without bloodshed.
Not even one of the miracles of the nineteenth century has affected
his noble position one jot: he is a posterity in himself, and no throne
ever has been, or ever will be, stronger than his.
In winter, when all nature is desolate, when hoary Frost spreads
his white mantle over the myriads of defunct flowers, then this
homely king rallies round him his subjects, to entertain, comfort, and
feed them, and make them happy, even when nature has almost refused
to humanity her powerful service. This mighty monarch, Eloise, is no
other than the three-legged iron pot, who has done such good service
for so many generations, and will continue to do so if properly treated
by his subjects.
So much for his moral virtues; but let us see what he has been
doing, and if we can make him do anything more, and that in ac-
cordance with the enlightenment of the nineteenth century. You
will perhaps say, that it is dangerous to try to make any change in
a government so well established. Not at all; my object is not to
interfere with his noble position, and deprive him of his rights. On
the contrary, I only wish to enrich his kingdom, which I am sure no
sensible monarch can object to.
Now for the immortal Pot-lucTc. All these receipts are for one
containing two gallons.


30 VARIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON POT.
78. Salt Beef.—Put in a piece of six pounds, add four quarts
of cold water; boil gently for three hours. One hour before
serving, wash clean, and cut the roots away of two cabbages,
which cut up in four pieces, and put in the pot with the meat.
When done, drain the cabbage, and place round the beef on the
dish, and serve. Leave the broth or liquor from the meat on
the fire, put in two pounds of split peas, a little pepper and brown
sugar; boil slowly till done, and put by, uncovered, for next day,
to drink with the cold meat. If more salt and pepper is required,
add it: if, on the contrary, it should be too salt, add more water
and a pound of potatoes. Or skim-milk may be added, and
about one pound of toasted bread, cut into dice, and put in the
soup when serving; or half a pound of flour, mixed with a pint
of water. Every part of salted beef may be boiled thus,
using about four ounces of vegetables to every pound of meat,
instead of cabbage. Turnip-tops, brocoli-6prouts, green kale,
carrots, turnips, Swedes, parsnips, &c, &c., may be used. Suet
dumpling may be served with it.
The pieces of beef generally salted are the brisket, edge bone,
round, flank, skirt. The ribs, when salted, are very fine, and
much more economical than when roasted. This receipt if
adopted for a farm-house; but two pounds of beef, and the
other things in proportion to be used for a small family. Bias may be used instead of peas.
N. Salt Porh.—Put four pounds of salt pork, either leg,
loin, head, belly, or feet, into the pot with six quarts of water,
and one pound of split peas. In one hour add four greens, cut
small, or turnip-tops, leeks, parsnips, &c. &c., placed in a net,
and boiled in the pot. When done, take them out, and keep
warm. Mix half a pound of flour with one pint of water, and
put in the pot, and stir it round. Boil for ten minutes, and serve
the meat and soup separate, and vegetables round the meat.
Pieces of bacon, knuckles of ham, cooked in the same way, are
very nice, only they will take rather longer boiling. A tea-
spoonful of pepper may be added.
You will perceive, my friend, that I have already opened a large
field for our old hero, adding in a few lines about twenty new
subjects in the shape of receipts to his kingdom.
80. Veal.—The flesh of the calf being of that light nature,


VARIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON POT.
31
requires more the process of roasting, or stewing, than of boiling, except for the purpose of making broth, for which purpose it is
superior to any other kind of meat. The only part which is
usually done so, is the knuckle, and if cooked in the following
way, is not an expensive dish:—Get a knuckle of veal and a
small knuckle of ham, weighing together about six pounds. Or
in the absence of the ham, or bacon, two pounds of the belly of
pork. Put this in the pot, and fill up with six quarts of water
and four spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, two carrots, cut in dice,
two onions and two turnips. Boil gently for three hours, take
out the meat and serve with mashed turnips or potatoes. Plain,
or parsley and butter over. The liquor boiled up with a pound
of ground rice, mixed in a quart of cold water. Put in and boil
for half an hour, and save for the next day's use. When boiled
for next day, add any remains of the veal, cut small, and put
in it, with a little milk, if handy. Whole rice, or peas, may be
used. Four Swedish turnips may be boiled with the veal, and
eaten with it, mashed up with pepper, salt, and butter. Vege-
tables may be omitted when scarce.
81. Mutton. — The leg, neck, breast, head, and feet, are
most often boiled; sometimes the shoulder, when not too fat,
is boiled, smothered in onions. Whichever joint it is, the
pot must be filled with water, to which six teaspoonfuls of
salt and one of pepper have been added. Put in the joint and
ten peeled turnips. When either joint is done, take it out, and
Serve the turnips round. Parsley and butter, capers, or chopped
gherkins, mixed with melted butter, may be served with boiled
mutton.
Save the liquor for the next day, add to it half a pound of
Scotch barley and a pound of any vegetables that may be in
season. Boil for one hour, and serve with toasted bread. Or
instead of barley, two pounds of potatoes, sliced, and boiled
with the vegetables, make a nice soup. For every pound of
this joint, let it cook fifteen minutes.
82. Sam.—A ham of about fourteen pounds will take about
four hours, and ought to be boiled in a three-gallon pot. Put
in the ham, and fill up with water: skim off the scum as it
rises; if wanted to be eaten cold, allow it to get cold in the
pot. If it is an old ham, it should be soaked for twelve hours
previously. Some carrots, turnips, and other vegetables, may


32 ON PRESERVING HAMS AND BACON.
be boiled, with also a bunch of sweet herbs, which will
improve the flavour of the ham. If the liquor is used for soup,
a couple of cow heels may be boiled with it, which may be eaten,
separately, or cut up in the soup, which should be strained. Or,
fry ten onions, sliced, until nearly brown; add to them half 4
pound of flour, stir well in, then add some of the liquor from the
ham, until it is rather thick; put into a tureen, and pour more
over it, and serve with slices of bread. Or instead of onions,
use cabbage or leeks.
As many cottagers kill their own pigs, and cure the hams and
bacon, and often boil only half the ham at a time, the knuckle
part should be boiled last, and the yellow fat, if any on it, should
Be cut away.
IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS ON CURING HAMS AND
BACON.
Tons of ham and bacon are yearly wasted throughout the country
for want of proper attention and judgment, in allowing the fat to get
rancid. Instead of hanging them up, as is the custom, to a low
ceiling, in every cottage or farmer's kitchen, the consequence of
which is, that the continual heat turns the fat and flesh of such a quad-
ruped as dry as a mummy, while, by the following simple rules, they
would keep equally as long without undergoing this antique Egyptian
process.
To prove to you the truth of my remarks—about six months ago,
I was on a visit to our excellent friend, William Tucker, Esq., of
Coriton Park, near Axminster, Devon, when all the neighbourhood
was searched to get a couple of home-cured country hams; however,
no such thing was to be found; every one of them bought were dried
to chips. The fat of the first one we operated on, when sawn in
two, (for we could not cut it in the ordinary way,) was of a blackish
yellow, and the meat of the same colour as rotten wood, only much
harder. Being anxious to see the person who had so effectively
"preserved" this ham, a very natty, clean old woman was brought to
me; and on showing her the bone, and asking her for the receipt,
she said she did not know how it was done, but her son Thomas did,
and she knew he would be glad to give me the receipt, to which
proposition I strongly objected, at the same time writing down the
following receipt, which she said her son would doubtless follow.
After you have pickled your ham or bacon for either winter or
summer use, dry the moisture with a cloth, and hang it in your


VARIOUS DISHES IN THE BLACK POT.
33
kitchen for about three -weeks, or until the outside begins to crystal-
lize; then remove it to your dairy, or any other dampish place, for a
few days; then place it in your kitchen again, and so on, backwards
and forwards, three or four times, till perfectly dry, and quite sound;
if any part should happen to get yellow and rancid, scrape it off,
rubbing the spot with a mixture of salt, pepper, and flour; but
be sure you don't keep it eighteen months, as it appears the old
woman's son did; so that, with all the indulgence of nature, who
allows us to preserve meat, by means of pickling it, for some con-
siderable time, yet common sense tells us, that it will not last for
ever. Ham, when well cured by experienced hands, can be kept
good for several years. The fault I before mentioned, exists in every
county, not excepting Westmoreland and Yorkshire, which two latter,
being ham counties, of course the evil does not run to so great an
extent. I daresay, Eloise, you will fancy this country conversation
rather too long to be pleasant. You may be right, as far as its value
as reading for the drawing-room goes, but let me tell you again, that
if these simple plans were adopted, more than one hundred thousand
tons of meat would be saved throughout the kingdom yearly, and
made to feed man rather than wasted as it is at present.
LAMB.
I think I ought not tomention this innocent and playful little
animal, but on second consideration, and remembering that King
Alfred once sought shelter in a cottage, and it being possible that
from accident, or some other cause, that a cottager might find him-
self unexpectedly honoured by a guest, to whom he would like to
give a delicacy, which could not be done better in the elaborate
kitchens of the most wealthy, than in the old iron pot of the most
humble abode.
It is rare that lamb is partaken of by the labourer, as he requires
more strengthening nourishment for his hard-looking frame, which
can digest everything eatable, without the aid of medical science.
These delicacies are left to those who would give a great deal if they
could possess the good appetite and the organic mastication of a
labouring man.
83. Boiled Leg of Lamb.—Put six quarts of water into the pot,
with six teaspoonMs of salt; when boiling put in the lamb, boil
slowly for one hour; remove the scum as it rises; serve it with
plain melted butter, or parsley and butter, or caper sauce; boiled
turnips or spinach. The broth may be made into soup the
same as the mutton.
84 Boiled Babbit.—Stuff a rabbit as No. 456; put in pot ten


34
VARIOUS DISHES IN THE BLACK POT.
or twelve large onions, with four quarts of water; boil them till
tender, then add the rabbit, simmering slowly for one hour, if
large; dish it up, keeping it warm; take out the onions, chop
them, and put into a pan or the pot with two ounces of butter,
half a teaspoonful of pepper, four of flour; mix all well to form
a puree, add a pint of milk, boil twenty minutes, stirring now
and then; pour over the rabbit and serve; little pieces of pickled
pork boiled with it is an improvement. Use the broth as above.
85. Our Christmas Dinner—Small Boiled Turkey.—Put
into the pot four quarts of water, three teaspoonfuls of salt,
one of pepper, have the turkey ready stuffed, as No. 456; when
the water boils, put in the turkey, and four pieces of salt
pork or bacon, of about half a pound each, or whole, if you
prefer it; also add half a pound of onions, one of white
celery, six peppercorns, a bunch of sweet herbs; boil slowly
for one hour and a half, mix three ounces of flour with two
ounces of butter; melt it in a small pan, add a pint of the
liquor from the pot, and half a pint "of milk, the onions and
celery taken out of the pot, and cut up and added to it; boil for
twenty minutes, until it is thickish; serve the turkey on a dish,
the bacon separate, and pour the sauce over the bird.
A turkey done in this way is delicious. With the liquor, in
which you may add a little colouring, a vermicelli, rice, or clear
vegetable soup can be made; skim off the fat, and serve.
The above with a plum pudding boiled the day before, and
rewarmed in boiling water in the pot whilst eating the soup
and turkey, and the addition of potatoes, baked in the embers,
under the grate, is a very excellent dinner, and can all be done
with the black pot.
Fowls and Chickens may be done the same way, giving only
half-an-hour for chickens, and three quarters for fowls.
86. A cheap Tripe Dinner.—Sometimes the cuttings of tripe,
or pig's chitterlings, or even a cow-heel, can be had very cheap, in
which case they should be cut into square pieces; peel eight good
onions, and ten large potatoes, for every four pounds of the meat;
lay some of the potatoes at the bottom of the pot, season with salt
and pepper, then some of the tripe, then onions and potatoes,
until all is in; then mix a quarter of a pound of flour with three
quarts of water; mix smooth, and boil gently for two hours;


VARIOUS DISHES IN THE BLACK POT.
35
scum and serve. This will make enough food for a family of
twelve, and cost about one shilling and sixpence.
87. Calve's Head and Feet.—If by any chance either of
these articles are to be bought cheap, which is sometimes the
case in London or any market town, cut the head open, take
out the brains, put it in the pot with six teaspoonfuls of
salt, two of pepper, four onions, parsley, and the little thyme;
put in six quarts of water, in which mix one quarter of a pound
of flour; being placed, set it to boil gently, skim it occasionally,
boil three hours ; just before serving, add a wineglass of vinegar;
serve with parsley and butter, alone, or with the brains, cleaned
and boiled in it; sharp sauce, No. 411.
The feet may be boiled in the same way. The liquor makes
an excellent soup for the next day, either thick or thin, and with
or without vegetables, or puree of peas, carrots, turnips, &c,
or mock turtle.
88. Sheep's Head and Feet.—Take two sheeps' heads and cut
the same as calf's head, and put in pot, with half a pound of pearl
barley, four spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, two carrots, four
onions, and four quarts of water; boil for about two hours,
or until tender, and serve.
Four feet added to it improve the broth. The heads when
cooked may be egged and bread-crumbed over, and then put in
the oven to brown for fifteen to twenty minutes. Eat it either
plain or with sharp sauce. Calves' head is very good done the
same.
89. Curry Fish.—Put into the pot four onions and two
apples, in thin slices, some bayleaf, thyme, or savory, with a
quarter of a pound of fat or dripping, three tablespoonfuls
of salt, one tablespoonful of sugar, and fry for fifteen minutes;
then pour in three quarts of water and one pound of rice; boil
till tender; add one tablespoonful of curry-powder, mixed in a
little water; cut up six pounds of cheap fish the size of an egg;
add to the above, and boil for twenty or thirty minutes, according
to the kind of fish. If salt fish is used, omit the salt. If no
herbs, do without, but always use what you can get.
90. Savory Sice.—Take six pounds of bones, broken small;
boil in eight quarts of water for three hours, having added three
J


36
VABIOTJS DISHES IN THE BLACK POT.
tablespoonfuls of salt, a bunch of thyme, bayleaf, and savory,
if any. When done, pour it into an earthen pan, remove the
bones; the fat will do for puddings; or put the fat or two
ounces of dripping into the pot, with two onions cut thin, half a
pound of either carrots, turnips, or celery, cut thin; two tea-
spoonfuls of sugar; put it on the fire for fifteen minutes,
stirring it continually; add half a pound of oatmeal, and mix
well; then pour over the stock that has come from the bones.
Add one pound of rice previously washed; boil till tender, and
serve. This will be found both cheap and nutritious.
91. Mice Panada.—Boil one pound of rice in four quarts of
water ; add one tablespoonful of powdered sugar, and two table-
spoonfuls of salt. Mix with some cold water one pound of flour
or oatmeal, so that it forms a thin paste; stir in three teaspoonfuls
of curry powder, add all to the rice, boil for twenty minutes,
and serve. A quarter of a pound of butter or dripping may be
added. Should it be preferred sweet, use a quarter of a pound
of treacle instead of curry. This will make ten pounds of solid
food, and is good either hot or cold.
92. Peas Panada.—Cut a quarter of a pound of fat bacon,
or pork, into small dice; put it in the pot with two onions, sliced,
or leeks: fry for ten minutes; keep stirring; then add one and
a quarter pound of split peas, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of
sugar, and one gallon of water. Boil till it becomes a purde,
or pulp; then add sufficient oatmeal or flour to make it very
thick; simmer twenty minutes; keep stirring it, and serve.
Indian meal may be used, but it must be soaked; the husk,
which floats, removed, boiled for two hours, and then added to
it. If there are no onions, use some sweet herbs.
This may bemade sweet by omitting the bacon, and using
a quarter of a pound of treacle, and when cold, may be cut to
pieces, and given to children as food.
93. Cheese Stirabout.—Nearly fill the iron pot with water,
throw in three table tablespoonsful of salt; when boiling, throw
in by degrees some Indian meal,—the quantity depends on the
quality; on an average, if the water is soft, one pound to every
two quarts; that would be four pounds. When well stirred,
remove the husk with a spoon, which floats on the top. Then
throw in one pound of strong cheese, broken in pieces, or grated


VARIOUS DISHES IN THE BLACK POT.
37
Boil for twenty minutes, and serve. Or, put it on a greasy baking-
tin, throw some more cheese on the top, put in the oven for
twenty minutes, and serve. Or, allow it to get cold, cut in
pieces, and fry.
94 Indian Meal Poullenta.—Boil the meal as above (it
must be very thick), without the cheese; mind that it is stirred
up a great deal, or it will catch to the bottom of the pot; pour
some into a baking-dish well greased; cut some beef or pork,
sausages, saveloys, or black puddings, into slices, and place them
on it. Cover this over with some more meal from the pot;
bake for twenty minutes, and serve.
This is an excellent and cheap dish, and well worthy the
attention of all classes, now that flour has become so expensive;
it is fit for the tables of the most wealthy, if a strong gravy is
poured over it when served. This may be made sweet with
either jam, treacle, or brown sugar.
95. Another Way.—For the above proportion, mince about
two pounds of meat, as No. 156, or liver. Mix well, then let
it get cold; cut and fry anyhow you like; of course omit
saveloys and black-puddings when meat is used.
In France, ox-liver is used in soup, to flavour the broth, and many
people eat it, fried or stewed. If it is in use in cooking in one
country, why should we not give it a trial. The proverb says,
"what is good for the goose is good for the gander," therefore what
is good for our neighbours and allies cannot possibly be bad for us.
An ox in France is uncommonly like an English one, and these
quadrupeds are equally as particular in their selection of food as
ours; and if the calves', pigs', sheep's, and lambs' liver is fit for the
tables of the wealthy, why should not that of the ox be deemed good
for human food. -
It is our duty, Eloise, in this work, to bring every wholesome
kind of cheap food to the notice of the poor, so that with a little
exertion, they may live, and live well, with the few pence they earn,
instead ot living badly at times, and most extravagantly at others,
and not to allow nourishing food to be wasted, as it is at present./
In many parts, and even in Ireland, during the year of the famine^
those who were starving would not partake of ox-liver. These are
bought up in that country, put into casks, with salt, sent over to a
sea-port in England; they are then subjected to a cold pressure, by
which the liquid is extracted, which is used for adulterating an


38
VARIOUS DISHES IN THE BLACK POT.
article in universal use; the remains are then dried in ovens, pounded,
and sent back to Ireland to be made into snuff.
96. Stewed Ox Heart and Liver.—Wash the heart well;
chop a few onions and sage, and mix with it a teaspoon-
ful of salt, and a quarter of pepper. Put it in the heart,
and lay it in the pan with the top part downwards. Cut one
pound of suet in quarter of a pound pieces; also two pounds of
ox liver, and a little bacon, if handy. Season with three tea-
spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, four or five onions, three pounds
of potatoes, and pour over three quarts of water. Place it in
the oven for three hours, and it is done.
In this dish, dried pulse of any kind, previously soaked, may
be used with advantage, such as the white haricot bean, the dried
Windsor bean, the lentil bean; all of which may be had in the
winter time in great abundance; and it is to be regretted that
there is not a large consumption in this country of pulse, as the
crop does not rob the ground so much as the potato, and is con-
siderably cheaper than flour. Dried yellow or green peas may
be used.
They are a good article for a tradesman to keep in stock, as
they do not deteriorate, like the potato, and only require to be
known, to be equally as much esteemed as that root.
FRENCH POT AU FEU.
(This may also be done in the iron saucepan, steapan, or
baking-pan.)
I cannot expect that this truly national soup of Franco can be
made to perfection, or done with so much care as in that country,
therefore I have simplified it, and shall call it The French Cottage
Pot au Feu, or French Soup.
97. Put a gallon of water in the pot, put four pounds of the
buttock of beef, or shin, or five pounds of the thick part of the leg,
three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, four onions, four leeks cut
in pieces, two carrots, and two good-sized turnips, three cloves, one
burnt onion, or three spoonfuls of colouring; set it on the fire; when
beginning to scum, skim it, and place the pot on one side of the fire.
Add now and then a drop of cold water; it will make it clear. Boil
four hours. Bread sliced, put into the tureen, and pour the broth,
with some of the vegetables, over; serve the meat separate, and the
remaining vegetables round.


VAEIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON SAUCEPAN. il
work will be the means of terminating that which I have so success fully begun.
Respecting my visiting prisons, hospitals, lunatic asylums, work, houses; also the interior of mines, coalpits, &c. &c.; and though I
must admit that those localities do not show the brightest part of
the mirror of life, still, you must not fancy that these people are all
unhappy; on the contrary, they are as contented as I am, and not a
day passes but what I teach them something in my way, at the same time learning many little things from them, and I think you will own that my correspondence partakes more of a jovial than a
morose nature.
Such is my opinion of that large class of society, termed the
million, after nearly twelve months stay among them, throughout
the united queendom.
IMPORTANT REMARKS ON COD-LIVER OIL.
But now to a very important culinary, and I think medical discovery,
which I owe to my persevering visits to various public charities in the
towns through which I passed. This happened at Hull, about three
months ago, from which town, if you recollect, I forwarded you the
drawing of the Station Hotel, where I was staying—I call it the
Monument Hotel, being so large and beautiful. But to come back to
the question; one of the proprietors, Mr. Jordan, on my asking if I
could visit the infirmary, kindly proposed to conduct me there, and
introduce me to the governor, which was done to my entire satisfac-
tion; and I must say that the sick are not better attended to in any
similar establishment I have visited in the country.
Being aware of the immense quantity of cod-liver oil taken by
delicate persons, now-a-days, and the great benefit derived from its
use, I asked the medical officer present his opinion of its efficacy.
"Nothing can be better," was his reply, "in many cases. But,"
said he, "many patients cannot take it, being of such an unpleasant
taste, more especially children, and as we in this establishment use the second quality, from motives of economy, it is doubly unpleasant."
I myself tasted some, and must say that I found it anything but
relishing.
After bidding adieu to the doctor, I and my host left, and while
returning to my hotel, I thought that something could be done to
alter the present unpleasant way of administering it. Accordingly,
upon reaching home, I sent for the following:—-
103. One pound of fresh cod-liver; I then peeled and steamed two
pounds of nice floury potatoes, then cut the liver in four pieces, placed
it over the potatoes, and then steamed them, letting the oil from the
liver fall on the potatoes; I then made some incisions in the liver
with a knife, to extract the remaining oil, afterwards dishing np


42
VARIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON SAUCEPAN.
the liver, which was eaten with a little melted butter and anchovy
■nuce. The potatoes were served up with a little salt and pepper.
Both dishes were found extremely good.
The following is another way of extracting the oil of a cod's liver,
with the aid of that abundant article, rice.
104. Bice and Cod Liver.—Boil half a pound of rice in two
quarts of water. When nearly done, remove three parts of the
water; then put over your rice a pound of cod's liver, cut in
large dice. Put the saucepan in a slow oven for about thirty
minutes, by which time it will be nicely cooked. Then take the
liver out, which serve as above directed. Stir the rice with a
fork, and serve it; if allowed by a medical man, add a little salt
and pepper. If no oven, cook the liver and rice on a very slow
fire, for otherwise it would burn, and be unwholesome as food.
Of course you can easily see what a blessing such diet as this
must be to a person incapable of taking the oil by itself, as, by
mixing it with the food, it entirely loses that rancid quality for
which it is proverbial.
105. Tapioca and Cod Liver.—Boil a quarter of a pound of
tapioca till tender in two quarts of water; drain it in a cullender,
then put it back in the pan; season with a little salt and pepper,
add half a pint of milk, put over one pound of fresh cod liver,
cut in eight pieces. Set your pan near the fire to simmer
slowly for half an hour, or a little more, till your liver is quite
cooked. Press on it with a spoon, so as to get as much oil into
the tapioca as possible. After taking away the liver, mix the
tapioca. If too thick, add a little milk, then boil it a few
minutes; stir round, add a little salt and pepper, and serve. If
you have a slow oven, use it in preference to the fire; but if you
are without an oven, here is another good way of cooking it:
106. Put three inches depth of water in a largish pan; then
put the pan containing the tapioca in the above-mentioned pan;
let it simmer till quite done. It will take about an hour. By
adopting this plan, all fear of burning is obviated; afterwards
remove the liver, which serve as at No. 103.
107. Sago, or semolina, may be done the same way, and by
adding an egg, ;t will make a delicate pudding; or by cutting
the liver in small dice, you may add it to your pudding, putting
•n a little more milk to make it moist; then add a couple more


VARIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON SAUCEPAN. 45
gravy, turn your Carthusian out on the paste, already laid oh the
dish; then proceed with the gravy as above described; red
cabbage is also very good, but requires double the quantity of
vinegar, and more pepper; proceed the same; they require
boiling in water about thirty minutes, if at all large, and rather
old, as they are at Christmas.
113. 3rd and General Lesson.—Having given you the base
or foundation in the above receipts on animal food, I will now
in a few words describe the extraordinary variations that can be made with this favourite dish of the best judges of good cheer,
—viz., the monastic fraternity of olden times.
Instead of the above, you may use pig's feet, cheek, pickled
pork, bacon, ham, liver of all kinds, previously fried, or partly so,
sausages, black-pudding, or salt beef, previously boiled and cut
in slices, or any part of fresh meat previously roasted, any
remains of poultry or game may be done the same by cutting
them in slices; if, however, they have not been previously cooked,
they will take two hours instead of one. Pigeons, partridges, and
all kinds of small birds, may be put in rows, only they should
be larded or stuffed previously.
This will give you an idea of the various ways in which this
dish can be made, as far as animal food goes.
The following will, by omitting the meat, be applicable for
vegetarians.
VEGETABLE PUDDING.
114. 4</t and General Lessonsfor the Use of the Vegetarian.
—You must observe, Eloise, that the above receipts are all
made with cabbage only. I have made them so, because, while
travelling last winter, I found that every cottager grew cabbage,
while no other vegetable was to be seen in his garden; but now
that summer is here, I will give you the receipts in the way the
monks used to make them; and, mind, they were all good
cooks in those days. They always had a foundation of cabbage
or greens, or some kind of Brussels sprouts, one pound of
either of the above done as in the first receipt; then they
added a pound of either boiled carrots, turnips, parsnips, beets, roots, artichokes, potatoes, leeks, celery, or onions; boil the
pound of whatever you choose from the above till tender; chop


46
REMARKS ON THE FOOD OF THE POOR.
it with your cabbage; season, and proceed as with cabbage only.
Sprue-grass, cut. small, or peas, may also be boiled and mixed,
but not chopped; a little sugar is an improvement to vegetables,
as it varies the flavour; use any aromatic herbs and spice you
choose, but always in proportion.
You may also, for a change, pour either a little white or
brown sauce over (see sauces), but observe that the vegetables
must always be kept firm enough to turn out as a pudding ;
either serve in a pan: or, to save trouble, turn the whole into
a tureen, or in a large dish, that is, if for a large family, but the
proper way is as first described. In fact, there is no end to the
ingenuity which may be displayed in the variation of this dish;
and to the cottager, with his small plot of garden-ground,
wherein he can produce sufficient vegetables for his family, it is
one of great economy, besides being exceedingly conducive to
health at all times.
GENERAL IGNORANCE OF THE POOR IN COOKING.
Ox cheeks may be bought at present, cut from the bone, and very
fresh, at about twopence-halfpenny to threepence per pound, in
London. It is the most gelatinous food which the ox produces, and
contains a large amount of nourishment, as I have already mentioned
to you. The only drawback there is to it is the length of time it
requires to cook, and the general way in which it is done, being in
many cases prejudicial to its use. Frequently on my visits to the abodes
of the poor, while in London last winter, I have often seen this article
of food completely spoiled. On one occasion, I asked an old lady how she cooked it. "Sure enough," said she, " by fire." "But, my dear
woman," I inquired, "how long do you cook it?" "Ah!" she
replied, "sometimes as long as an hour, and boiling like the very
deuce all the time, till the water will not stand it any longer."
"And pray," I asked, "what do you do with the water?" "Faith,
there is no water left, but only black muck at the bottom of the pot,
which I throw away," was her reply.
Therefore I am always of the same opinion, dearest Eloise, as
regards our long talked of scheme of opening a national school to
teach the poor how to cook their food, and make the most of it.
Some of the money spent on our new palace prisons would bo much
better employed for this purpose, and would ultimately decrease the
parish rates.
But I am digressing from the conversation I had with this old
dame. When I found she was so ignorant, I asked her if I should


RESTAURS ON THE FOOD OF THE POOR,
47
eome and teach her how to cook, properly, an ox cheek. "No,
faith," said she, " I have no money to throw away, not even enough
to buy another." Sanguine as I always am upon my favourite
theme, I offered to bring one with me, as a present, the following
day, and gave her sixpence to buy some sand to clean her iron pot,
which I found done on my arrival the following day; she having
also purchased two pennyworth of coals out of the money. I then
produced the ox cheek, and put it into the pot with four quarts of cold
water, and four teaspoonfuls of salt, and some leaves of celery, which
articles were given to her by a neighbouring greengrocer. Her fire
was made up, and the pot was placed on it, until boiling, and then
removed to the side of it, and skimmed. There I left it, and went
round to pay my other visits.
At the end of three hours I returned, and, she having a large
basin in the room, I put some crusts of bread in it, and poured
the liquid from the pot into it, and the meat I placed on a dish,
and sat down with the old dame, serving the soup out into cups
with a beer jug, having nothing better, and, to her great surprise,
cut the cheek easily with a very bad knife, it being so tender. After
tasting it, and finding it very good, she said she would show
her neighbours how to do it. I told her that, if she would do so,
I would give her more like receipts, when she exclaimed, "Bless you, ma'am, do; I will do them as well as you, now I have seen you
do it." In anticipation of sending them to her the next day, I was
about to retire, wishing her goodbye. "Lor', ma'am," said she,
"you would not go without taking a drop of the 'creature.' " To my
astonishment, a small bottle was brought out of her pocket, and offered
to me. from its strange smell, I was induced to taste it, and I feel
confident, if it had been analyzed by the " Lancet," it would have
proved to be real Hue ruin, composed, as it was, of a mixture of
vitriol, &c.
This opened to me the secret of the emaciated looks of the thou-
sands of the inhabitants of these back alleys, and I could then account
for the remainder of my change out of the sixpence. I, however,
sent her the following receipts, of course omitting her favourite
seasoning—gin.
Having sent her the receipts, as promised, on reconsideration, it
occurred to me that the old lady might not be able to read. I was
not mistaken, for on calling upon her, I found six elderly matrons
and an old man holding council together, and trying to make out
the writing. The latter was just sending for his grandson, who, he
said, was a scholar, having been three months at a Sunday-school.
My arrival set all to rights, at the same time it frightened three of the
council away; but I begged the others to stop, and hear the receipts
read, which they accordingly did, afterwards giving several copies
away.


MEAT ON GRIDIRON.
49
home, and asks his wife what he can have for dinner, the hour of her
dinner, and that of the children, having long past. "What would
you like to have, my dear?" was her question. "Anything pm l»ve." "Let's see! why—we have nothing, but I can get you a
mutton chop, or steak." "Can I have nothing else; I am tired of
chops and steaks." "Why, my dear, what can be better than a
chop or a steak?" "Well, let me have a steak." "You had that
yesterday, my dear: now, let me get you a chop. I always make it
my duty to study your comfort; and as I have been reading, not
long since, a medical work on diseases of the skin, written by Dr.
Erasmus Wilson, in which he says that nothing is so wholesome as
a change of food, since which time I have made a point of varying
our bill of fare, as they call it in that useful work." "Very well,
send for two chops." In about twenty minutes the servant returns, saying she could get no chops, but has got a nice piece of steak.
"Very well. That will do as well, will it not, my dear?" to
her husband, who is reading a periodical." "Yes; but how long
will you keep me here before it is done?" "Not a minute, my
love. Now, Jane, do that well on the gridiron." Jane descends,
but quickly returns, saying, "Please, ma'am, the fire is not fit
for broiling." "Well, fry it," is her answer. The husband, who
hears it, exclaims, "Drat the frying-pan, it is always so greasy."
"Then, my dear, how would you like to have it." "Not at all,-"
was his reply, throwing down the paper, and exclaiming; "Bother the
place, there is no getting any victuals properly cooked here. I must
go to the cook-shop and have it." He seizes his hat, and slamming
the door, makes his exit in a passion.
The mistress blames Jane, and begins to beat the child for having
upset the milk on the toast. Jane kicks the cat, and gives warning.
The night comes. There are no candles in the house. Jane is sent
out for them, but does not return in proper time. The husband
arrives, and finds all in darkness. They quarrel, and swear they
must separate in order to "live comfortably together." Jane comes
home, and is ordered to pack up her boxes, in order to be off the
first thing in the morning, by which time, however, their tempers
have had time to cool, and Jane is accordingly reinstated in her
former position;
Moral (not on fable, but on truth): A man disappointed in some-
thing to eat, consoles himself with something to drink. If he has
no stimulus in wholesome food, he will have it in pernicious spirit.
He is quarrelsome, scolds his wife, beats his children, frequents the
dram-shop, and becomes what is called a bad husband. It is not
altogether his fault, the dinner was not eatable, and he must have
something to support him, which he foolishly finds in spirits; and thus,
by the want of attention on the part of the wife, is made what he is.
In no country in the world do the annals of police courts show such


50
MEAT ON GRIDIRON.
scenes as are daily noticed in the public journals of London, which
the increase of punishment by a modern law has not yet succeeded in putting down.
Before proceeding with the following receipt, it is advisable to
read the introduction of semi-fried steaks, and steaks in pan, page 55,
as it would be tautology to repeat it here.
IMPORTANT REMARKS ON STEAK AND RUMP STEAK.
BroiledSteaks and RumpSteak.—Previous to cooking a
steak, nurse your fire; it will well repay your trouble, and also
remember, in the morning, that you are obliged to dine that
very identical day, and no doubt you decide upon having a
steak for dinner, which is a very good thing, when the meat is
good and well cooked, also fix the hour you intend to dine, and
half an hour previous stir up the fire, clear away the ashes,
stir all dead cinders from the bottom, and in a few minutes you
will have a clear fire, fit for the use of the gridiron; and every
article you may submit to that process of cookery stands a
chance of being well done. I herewith forward you the following
lesson:—
117. First Lesson.—For first quality of steak, the meat ought
to be well hung, and if cut nicely off the rump of a Scotch beast
will weigh from a pound and a quarter to a pound and a half,
that is, being three-quarters of an inch thick; if it should be
cut rather thicker in one part than another, beat it even with a
chopper; if of the above thickness, it should be placed about
five inches above the fire; if thicker, six inches; taking it as
an invariable rule, that the thicker the steak, the further in
proportion it must be from the fire. The extra piece of fat
which accompanies it should be put on a little after the steak,
or it will be too much done. Whilst doing, throw over some
pepper and salt, and turn it the moment the fat begins to drop:
the motive of constantly turning the steak is to keep the gravy
in. Never put a fork into it to turn it, but use a pair of tongs;
but if you have not any, place the fork in the fat and turn it.
When the steak is done, it will feel firm under the pressure of
the finger.


MEAT ON GMDIUON.
51
Second Lesson.—Sometimes it is impossible to broil over the
fire, but easy to use a double gridiron, to broil in front. In such
cases, the gridiron should never be opened until the steak is
done; then the gravy will not be pressed out. If carefully
attended to, this plan is as good as the other, but otherwise, it
spoils the best of meat.
The time required for a nice tender rump steak, three-quarters
of an inch thick, weighing a pound and a quarter, over or before
a nice clear fire, is from twelve to fifteen minutes. If turned four
times in that time, the gravy will remain in it, and if served imme-
diately, on a hot dish (not too hot, to dry up the gravy), it will
eat tender and juicy, and be fit for a member of the Rump Steak
Club.
Third Lesson.—Some persons put a bit of butter on the dish,
others ketchup, others sauces of various kinds; all these should
be left to the party who partakes of it; it is the duty of the
cook to send it up plainly, but properly seasoned with salt and
pepper, unless otherwise ordered. Every pound of steak will
require one and a half teaspoonfuls of salt, and a half of pepper.
But if required flavoured and seasoned to satisfy a blase
appetite, then the following should be adopted.
118. RumpSteak with Eschalot.—Chop up one eschalot
very fine, mix it with a teaspoonful of salt and half of pepper,
rub the steak all over with it, and press it in with a knife;
place it over the fire as the above, cook and serve. If not
required so strong, rub only the gridiron and the dish with
eschalot.*
RumpSteak with Eschalot Butter.—Cut up two eschalots
very fine, and mix it with half an ounce of butter, which spread
over the under part of the steak when dishing up.
RumpSteak with Maitre d'Hotel Butter. — When your
steak is just done, rub it over with an ounce of prepared butter
as No. 426.
Devilled Steak.—Mix in a plate two teaspoonfuls of salt, na><
* If eschalot is required to be served up in the dish, or on a
separate plate, chop them up fine, as at No. 458, and serve two tea-
spoonsful to every pound of steak.


52
MEAT ON GltlDIRON.
of cayenne, two of made mustard; place the steak on the fire;
after the first turn spread half of the mixture on it, and dredgl
it with flour; do the same with the other side. Broil as above. Curry Powder, mixed with mustard, or curry paste alone,
can be rubbed over the same way.
119. Wakefield Steak.—Cut a steak one inch thick, score it
on each side, crossways. Put into a tart dish two teaspoonfuls
of salt, one of pepper, one of sugar, a teaspoonful of chopped
tarragon, a tablespoonful of Soyer's relish, two tablespoonfuls of
vinegar; put the steak in it for six hours; turn it now and
then. This seasoning is called marinade. Previous to broiling,
dredge it lightly with some flour, while doing, and serve with
butter in very small pieces under the steak. At Wakefield they
sometimes use the WarnclifFe sauce.
Some raw potatoes cut into very thin slices, and nicely fried,
served round it, renders it a dish fit for the greatest epicure. This
dish proves that the inhabitants of Wakefield have not lost the
culinary reputation they formerly possessed, and which they first
acquired some four hundred years since, when the French queen
and her suite came to reside there, and allowed them to quarter
the fleur-de-lis in the arms of the town. Beef skirt and other
pieces may be all done in the same way, allowing time to cook
according to the quality and hardness of the pieces you dress 120. Mutton Chops.*—These may all be cooked and flavoured
like the steaks, but in many cases garlic is used instead of
eschalot, when preferred. Peel a clove of garlic, put it on the
end of a fork, and rub both sides of the chop lightly with it.
Chopped mushrooms are very good with broiled chops. Any
fleshy part of the, sheep may be broiled the same way.
121. Mutton Chop.—In my opinion, two chops out of a fine
South Down, well hung, cut three quarters of an inch thick,
leaving half an inch of fat round them, and broiled over a clear
fire for ten minutes, turned four times, sprinkled with salt and
pepper, served on a hot plate, one at a time, with a nice mealy
potato, is as good, as wholesome, and nutritious a dinner as can
be partaken of. One and a half teaspoonful of salt and a half
of pepper to a pound of chops, is a good seasoning.
• For description of chops see page 55, Frying-Pan.


MEAT ON GRIDIRON.
53
122. Plain Veal Chops are broiled as above. A veal chop,
nicely cut from the leg, ought to weigh one pound. I am ot
opinion that to broil a veal chop by the direct action of the fire is
an act of Vandalism. Of course, if there is no time to do it other
ways, it must be done so; but that so delicate a kind ot food
should be subject to such fierce treatment in order to spoil it, is
what I do not approve of. It ought to be wrapped up in a
sheet of buttered paper, with pepper and salt on it. The sheet
of paper ought to be large, thick foolscap; the chop laid on one
half, the other brought over, and the edges folded over so that no
gravy escapes. They should be placed eight inches above the
fire, and broiled for at least twenty minutes, and served in the
paper very hot. A little chopped mushroom or parsley may be
placed in the paper, and improves the flavour.
123. Veal Cutlet.—A pound of veal not more than half an
inch thick, from the fillet, will make three cutlets, and should be
broiled with some bacon. The same objection exists with this as
the former; but both veal and bacon wrapped up in paper, and
broiled as above, is very excellent; a little chopped chives,
eschalots, or onions, may be added.
124. Pork Chops.—These should be cut not quite so thick
as mutton, and the skin left on. They will take one third
longer to do. Well rubbed with pepper and salt, and an onion,
previous to broiling, is an improvement.
These can be served with any sauce, as apple, tomato, horse-
radish, mustard, sage and onion, &C. &C. 125. Calves' Heart should be cut lengthways, and the pieces
not thicker than half an inch; broil with a piece of fat, or bacon,
for ten minutes: serve with a little currant jelly and butter in the
dish, under the pieces of heart.
It is also excellent (see No. 119) marinaded for a few hours,
and the following may be done any way like steak.
Ox, pig's, lamb, and sheep's heart, may be done, like it.
Also the livers of the above, cut the same thickness, and
broiled with some bacon, a little melted butter with ketchup in
it, is a good sauce for broiled heart and liver. Observe, Eloise,
that I shall be obliged to send you many similar receipts to
these for frying-pan, but the flavour will be very different.
W. Lamb Chops should be cut not more than half an inch
thick, and broiled before the fire very close and quick; they will 


MEAT ON GKIDIRQN.
take from eight to ten minutes. Throw some pepper and salt
over, and serve very hot, with fried parsley round them, if handy.
Lamb chops might be dressed in paper, the same as veal.
127. Broiled Ham.—A slice of ham a quarter of an inch
thick will take seven or eight minutes, over a sharp fire, turning
it often.
Bacon about the same.
128. Sausages should be placed high above a slow fire, and
done slowly: they will take ten minutes; beef sausages, about
eight minutes; prick them first with a fork, or they will burst.
129. Black Puddings.—These are often partaken of cold, after
having been boiled, but they are best after broiling: they should
be at least eight inches above the fire, and the skins pricked, and
will take fifteen minutes doing, turning several times.
130. Cold Meat Broiled.—The remains of cold meat cut into
slices a quarter of an inch thick; season with salt and pepper;
when hot through, rub with a little butter, turn it often, and
serve with a little ketchup in the dish.
This may be varied with any sauce, or chopped herbs.
131. Broiled Bones.—When these have a little meat on them,
they should be rubbed over with salt and pepper, and a little
butter, broiled some distance above or before the fire, that they
may get gradually warm, and should be served very hot, and
rather brown.
Eemains of poultry, game, &c., should be done the same.
132. Devilled Bone.—The remains of the rib of a sirloin of
beef, or the blade-bone of a shoulder of mutton, the legs of
fowls, turkeys, Sic., should be slightly cut all round with a
knife, and well rubbed with cayenne and salt, and a teaspoonful
of Chili vinegar, or ketchup, or Relish, and broiled gently
until hot through and brown. Serve very hot.
133. Broiled and Devilled Toast.—Toast a round of bread,
cut a quarter of an inch thick; mix in a plate one ounce of
butter, half a teaspoonful of cayenne, one teaspoonful of mustard,
one teaspoonful of English, or Sauce; spread it over the toast,
and serve very hot. Broiled kidneys or sausages may be served
on it.
134. Broiled Kidneys.—Sheep's kidneys should be cut in the
middle, so as nearly to divide them, leaving the fat in the middle j


MEAT INFRYING-PAN.
55
run a skewer through them, that they may remain open; broil
gently; five minutes for a common size is sufficient. Season
with salt and pepper; rub apiece of butter over, and serve. They
can be served on toast, or with any sauce.
Lamb's, pig's, calves', and ox kidneys, may be done the same
way, but the two latter will take much longer, and should be
better done. You may also egg and bread-crumb them.
135. Broiled Fowls, Pigeons, Sfc.—These, if whole, should
be cut in down the back, after being drawn and well skewered
to keep them so, or beaten flat with the chopper. Season
well with pepper and salt; well grease a double gridiron, and
place them a sufficient distance from a moderate fire; turn often.
A fowl, if small, will take from twenty-five to thirty minutes;
if large, three quarters of an hour; pigeons about ten minutes.
Serve either plain, or with any sauce that is liked. They may
be egged and bread crumbed.
PRYING-PAN.—INTRODUCTION.
This useful utensil, which is so much in vogue in all parts of
the world, and even for other purposes besides cookery—for I
have before me now a letter, written, at the Ovens' diggings, on
the back of a frying-pan, for want of a table; but in your letter you
suggest the necessity of paying particular attention to it, as it is
the utensil most in vogue in a bachelor's residence. I cannot but
admire your constant devotion to the bachelors: you are always in
fear that this unsociable class of individuals should be uncomfortable.
For my part, I do not pity them, and would not give myself the
slightest trouble to comfort them, especially after they have passed
the first thirty springs of their life. Let them get married, and
enjoy the troubles, pleasures, and comforts of matrimony, and have a
wife to manage their home, and attend to more manly pursuits than
cooking their supper when they get home at night, because the old
housekeeper has gone to bed; or lighting the fire when they get up
in the morning, because the old dame has a slight touch of lumbago ;
and should he require something substantial for his breakfast, and
want that utensil of all work, the frying-pan, finds it all dirt and
fishy, not having been cleaned since he last dined at home.
No, my dear Eloise, I assure you I do not feel at all inclined
to add to their comforts, though you may do what you like with the
following receipts, which are equally as applicable to them, as to the
humble abode of the married fraternity.
B


AC
MEAT IN FRYING-PAN.
You will also find, in these receipts, that the usual complaint of
food being greasy by frying, is totally remedied, by sauteing the meat
in a small quantity of fat, butter, or oil, which has attained fl proper
degree of heat, instead of placing it in cold fat and letting it soak
while melting.
I will, in as few words as possible, having my frying-pan in one
hand and a rough cloth in the other, with which to wipe it (con-
sidering that cleanliness is the first lesson in cookery), initiate you
in the art of producing an innumerable number of dishes, which can
be made with it, quickly, economically, relishing, and wholesome. But
I must first tell you, that the word fry, in the English language, is a
mistake; according to the mode in which all objects are cooked
which are called fried, it would answer to the French word saute,
or the old English term frizzle; but to fry any object, it should be
immersed in very hot fat, oil, or butter, as I have carefully detailed to
you in our "Modern Housewife." To frizzle, saute", or, as I will
now designate it, semi-fry, is to place into the pan any oleaginous
substance, so that, when melted, it shall cover the bottom of the pan
by about two lines; and, when hot, the article to be cooked shall be
placed therein. To do it to perfection requires a little attention, so
that the pan shall never get too hot. It should be perfectly clean—
a great deal depends on this.
I prefer the pan, for many objects, over the gridiron; that is, if
the pan is properly used. As regards economy, it is preferable, securing
all the fat and gravy, which is often lost when the gridiron is used.
All the following receipts can be done with this simple hatterie da
cuisine, equally as well in the cottage as in the palace, or in the
bachelor's chamber as in the rooms of the poor.
136. 1st Lesson. To Semi-fry Steak.—Having procured a
steak about three quarters of an inch thick, and weighing about
one pound, and two ounces of fat, place the pan on the fire, with
one ounce of butter or fat; let it remain until the fat is melted,
and rather hot; take hold of the steak at one end by a fork, and
dip it in the pan, so that one side is covered with fat; then
turn the other side in it, and let it remain for two or three
minutes, according to the heat of the fire; then turn it: it will
take about ten or twelve minutes, and require to be turned on
each side three times, taking care that the pan is not too hot, 05
it will burn the gravy, and perhaps the meat, and thus lose all
the nutriment; in fact, the pan should never be left, but care-
fully watched; on this depends the advantages of this style and
mode of cookery. If the object is not turned often, it will be
noticed that the gravy will come out on the upper surface of the
meat, which, when turning over, will go into the pan and be
lost, instead of remaining in the meat. Season with a tea-


MEAT IN FRYING-PAN.
57
spoonful of salt and a quarter of pepper; then feel with the finger
jiat it is done, remove it with a fork, inserted in the fat, and
serve very hot.
So much for the first lesson, the details of which must be
learnt, as it will then simplify every other receipt.
137. 2nd Lesson.—Remember that the thickness is never to
exceed one inch, nor be less than half an inch, and to be as
near as possible the same thickness all over. A good housewife
will object to one cut in any other way; but if it cannot be
avoided, press it out with the blade of the knife, to give it the
proper thickness. When done, wipe the pan clean; and place
it on a hook against the wall, with the inside of the pan nearest
the wall, to prevent the dust getting in.
Now, dear Eloise, you will perhaps say that the foregoing lessons
are too long for so simple a thing as a steak, as everybody think
themselves capable of cooking it without tuition, but having now
given these directions, I hope those who fancy they can cook without
learning will know better for the future, and pay a little attention
to so important a subject.
138. —The above lesson may be varied by adding to the pan,
with the seasoning, a few chopped onions, or eschalots, parsley,
mushrooms.pickles, semi-fried at the same time or after.and poured
over the steak; or when the steak is dished up, a little butter,
or chopped parsley and butter, or two spoonfuls of either Relish,
Harvey's, or any other good sauce that may be handy. Pour
the fat of the steak into a basin for future use. Some fried
potatoes may be served with it, or the following additions made:
after the steak is done, slice a quarter of a pound of onions to
each pound of steak, and a little more fat; fry quickly, and when
brown place round the steak; pour the gravy over.
Some mushrooms, if small, whole, if large, sliced, put in the
Jan and fried, are excellent.
Two tablespoonfuls of mixed pickle, put into the pan after the
steak is removed, fried a little, then add two tablespoonfuls of the
£quor and two of water; when on the point of boiling pour over
the steak. The same may be done with pickled walnuts and
gherkins, or two ounces of tavern-keepers' butter rubbed over,
(see No. 427,) or half a pint of oyster sauce, or mussel sauce, or
horseradish sauce; or a little flour dredged over the steak, and a
little water added in the pan, when the steak is done, and a little
colouring or ketchup, and then poured over the steak.


58
MEAT IN FRYING-PAN.
These receipts can be continued and multiplied to any extent,
entirely depending on the taste of the cook.
A steak may first be dipped in flour, and well shook; then,
when you have semi-fried your meat, it will have acquired a
nice brown; this may also be applied to veal cutlets, pork and
mutton chops, poultry and game.
139. Another Way.—When your steak is partly done,
dredge both sides over with a spoonful of flour, dish up, pour
out the fat, put a gill of water in the pan; let it simmer a few
minutes,—it will make a nice thick sauce.
139a. Beefsteak, with Semi-fried Potatoes.—Rub and semi-
fry your steak, adding thin slices of potatoes, letting them lie
in the pan while the steak is doing; turn them as often as you
do the steak, serve round with gravy, to make which pour half
a gill of water in the pan under the steak—the moisture of the
potatoes will cause some of the gravy to come out of the meat,
but it will be found very good.
140. A Series of Lessons how to Semi-fry Chops of all Tcinds.
Lesson 1.—First select your mutton. Let it not be too fat; if it is,
cut some off. Always observe that a mutton chop should be one third
fat, and of the same thickness throughout. Have them cut from the
loin, let them be about an inch in thickness. Very little attention
will accomplish this important point; for I feel convinced, Eloise, that
an ill-cut chop never can be but ill-cooked; you can always equalize
them by beating them out with a chopper. Have your frying-pan very
clean; put in an ounce of butter, or, if you like, dripping or lard;
let it get rather hot. As soon as it begins to smoke, take your chop
with a fork, by the small end, and dip it in the fat for half a minute;
then turn it, let it semi-fry for about three minutes, season the upper-
most side with a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, and half that quantity
of pepper; then turn it, and serve the other side the same way. You
may then turn it several times while doing, as that equalizes the
cooking, as well as carbonizes the meat. Ten minutes will cook it to
perfection, and less, if thinner.
Second Lesson.—If the above directions are properly attended
to, the chop will present the appearance of a rich brown colour,
and the fat a gold colour, cutting extremely white and light, while
the meat will look darkish, and give a strong gravy which will
almost stick to the knife, instead of running on the plate and par-
taking of a watery red colour, as is the case when a chop is slowly
and badly cooked. This last sort of gravy is called by some people
rich, which I am sure, my dear, you will find to be a great mistake;


MEAT IN FRYING-PAN.
59
though the badly-cooked chop will probably weigh more than the
other, from not having lost so much of its substance, yet it will not
possess half the nutriment and flavour of a chop well done. The
above quantity of seasoning will do for a chop weighing about a
quarter of a pound, and would, I may safely say, suit the palate of
fifteen persons out of twenty; therefore I hope it will diminish the
load of salt and pepper every Englishman piles on his plate, previous
to tasting the article of food placed before him. The cook ought to
season for the guest, not the guest for the cook.
141. Third Lesson.—When you can thoroughly cook a chop
according to the first lesson, it materially simplifies the second, which
is thus done:—Get a chop and cook it as above, but to vary the
flavour, when half cooked, sprinkle over it a little chopped chives, or
eschalots, or onions, spice, or aromatic herbs; or when done, rub both
sides of the chops lightly with a clove of peeled garlic, or a piece of
fresh or maitre d'hdtel butter. These remarks are applicable to
all kinds of semi-fried meat.
The Fourth Lesson is still more simplified, my dear Eloise, namely,
cook your chop plainly, as before directed, eat it yourself, and let me
know how you relished it.
Chops from the neck, called cutlets, are done in this manner. Pork,
veal, and ham chops require the same style of seasoning and cooking.
A slow fire is preferable to a sharp one for the above mentioned chops,
which, when semi-fried, will take a gold colour, as above-mentioned.
You may always ascertain when the chop is done by pressing your
finger on the thick part; if the flesh is firm and well set on both
sides, it is done and ready to serve. Half a pint of chopped pickled
red cabbage put in the pan after the chop is done and warmed through
will be found very relishing, especially for pork cutlets.
142. Mutton Cutlets.—The chop from the neck is the best to
semi-fry; they should be nicely cut, and the bone at the thick
part removed, as it prevents the meat from doing; then beat up
the yolk and white of an egg, with a pinch of salt; have
ready some bread-crumbs, made from stale bread, and sifted,
(this may always be kept ready in a canister); beat out the
cutlets with a small chopper, dip them or rub them with a
brush with the egg, place some of the bread-crumbs on a plate,
and lay the outlet on them; press them; serve both sides the
same, and shake off all loose crumbs; have the fat in the
pan quite hot, lay them in it; when nicely browned on one
side, turn them over, and do the other side the same; take them
out, lay them on a cloth, so that no fat remains; serve with any
made sauce. Tor bread-crumb, see No. 452 a.


60
MEAT IN FRYING-PAN.
143. Veal Cutlets should be cut round, about three inches in
diameter, and a quarter of an inch thick, done very quickly.
144. These may all be rubbed previous to bread-crumbing,
with either onion or eschalot; by rubbing them there will be
no perceptible taste, but a pungent flavour; these can be served
with various made sauces, and stewed spinach, greens, peas, and
anything, according to taste, remembering that that which
pleases the eye will prove agreeable to the palate.
145. Pork Chops, semi-fried, without bread-crumbs, are done
as the mutton chops; they will require more time, and should be
served with a mustard or sharp sauce.
Mutton, veal, pork, and lamb, all look inviting, and are all
equally good, when bread-crumbed and semi-fried, as above.
146. 1st Lesson. Sausages and Kidneys, Semi-fried.—Peel
and chop fine about four small onions,put one ounceof butter in the
frymg-pan, two ounces of bacon cut in slices, and a tablespoonful
of chopped onions; fry for five minutes, stirring it with a spoon;
«ut half a pound of sausages in half lengthways, place them in
the pan, then cut an ox kidney into thin slices, omitting the
hard part; put it in the centre of the pan, season with half a
teaspoonful of salt and one saltspoonful of pepper; fry gently
for five minutes, turning them. Take care they are not done
too much, or they will be hard; throw a teaspoonful of flavour
over them, add one quartern of water; simmer two minutes;
dish with kidneys in the middle and sausages round. Dripping,
lard, or oil, may be used instead of butter, and a few small
mushrooms is an improvement.
2nd Lesson. Kidneys alone.—Slice thin an ox kidney, put
two ounces of butter into a frying-pan; when hot, add two
ounces of bacon, cut in thin dice, and the kidney; fry for five
minutes, if over a brisk fire; longer, if over a slow fire; add a
teaspoonful of flour, salt, and pepper, moisten with half a pint of
water, simmer a few minutes, stir round, and serve with or
•dthout crisp toasted bread round it: a little lemon is an
improvement.
3rd Lesson. Mutton Kidneys, with Ale Sauce.—Cut six
kidneys in two, remove the outer skin, cut them into slices; put
two ounces of butter into a frying-pan; when very hot, put in
the kidneys, and stir continually for about five minutes; sprinkle


MEAT IN FEYIUG-PAN.
61
fver a teaspoonful of flour, a little salt and pepper, and, if
sandy, a little parsley chopped fine; moisten with a little water
and four tahlespoonfuls of ale; thus it forms a thickish sauce.
Lemon is an improvement, or wine in the place of ale, or
a little vinegar, if preferred.
147. Calves' Zdver, Semi-fried.—Cut the liver a quarter of
an inch thick, the bacon the same, mix in a plate a tablespoonful
of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, and the same of pepper, dip the
liver into it; have ready the frying-pan, with sufficient fat or
dripping, quite clear, as much as will cover the bottom of the
pan a quarter of an inch; when very hot (which try as before
directed for fish), put in the liver and bacon; the bacon will be
done first, which remove; the liver must be turned in five minutes;
when it is done remove it into a dish, and serve.
148. Another Way.—Take away nearly all the fat, then put in
the pan a teaspoonful of chopped onions, the same of flour, stir till
brown, then add some salt and pepper, a tablespoonful of vinegar,
and a small teacupful of water, a little curry powder, if handy; mix
well together, and pour over the liver. Calves' Hearts, as well
as pig's and sheep's, &C. &C., may be done like liver, cut in
slices, with the exception, that either some currant-jelly, port
wine, or a little ale or porter, or ketchup, may be added to
the sauce; it is also good bread-crumbed.
149. Lambs' Fry is sometimes to be had for a trifle; you
can purchase it from about threepence or fourpence per pound;
wash it in cold water; for every pound put a quart of water; put
them in it for ten minutes to set; take them out, lay them on a
cloth; then put in a frying-pan two ounces of butter or dripping,
letting it get hot, then dip each piece of the fry in the follow-
ing mixture, and put in the pan, and fry gently: break an egg,
beat it well, add a teaspoonful of flour, which mix smooth, half
a wineglass of either milk or water, a little salt and pepper may
be put in this delicate batter. When your fry has obtained a
nice gold colour, turn it; when done, season with a teaspoonful
of salt, and a quarter of pepper, to every pound of fry. A few
chopped onions put in the pan with the meat is very nice, or a
few mushrooms.
Pigs' chitlings, done as above, will be found very good, espe-
cially if fried with onions; buy them ready cleaned, then before


62
MEAT IN FRYING-PAN.
you fry them let them simmer in a saucepan, in salt and water
for thirty minutes, or till tender; drain them, and fry as above.
Tripe may also be done the same.
FOWLS.
150. —The motive of semi-frying food is to have it done quickly;
therefore, to fry a whole fowl, or even half, is useless, as it could be
cooked in a different way in the same time; but to semi-fry a fowl
with the object of having it quickly placed on the table, in order to
satisfy a good, and perhaps fastidious, appetite, it should be done in a
similar way to that practised in Egypt some 3000 years since, and
of late years for the great Napoleon—that is, cooked in oil.
In France this dish is called " Poulet a la Marengo." It is related
that the great conqueror, after having gained that celebrated victory,
eat three small chickens at one meal done in this way, and his
appetite and taste was so good, and he approved of them so highly
that he desired that they might always be served in the same way during the campaign.
151. —The fowl should be divided thus; if just killed it should
be plucked and drawn as quick as possible, or cooked whilst still
warm; it will then be tender; if it has been long killed, the
joints and pieces should be well beaten with a piece of wood, not
to break the skin and bones, but to loosen the sinews. The legs
should be first removed, then the wings, going close up to the
breast; then cut the belly in two; by this there are eight pieces.
They should be seasoned with pepper and salt; for want of oil,
one ounce of either butter, fat, or dripping should be put in the
pan. If a young fowl, it will take from twelve to fifteen minutes;
the pieces should be turned several times; when done serve plain,
or put into the fat a glass of wine, some vinegar, or ketchup;
for want of wine add a little vinegar; give it a boil up till half
reduced; season and pour into the dish, and serve. A few fried
mushrooms are excellent with it; or six oysters, with their
liquor, or tomata sauce, &c.
If the fowl is preferred to be done whole, then split it down the
back, truss it the same as for broiling; beat it flat, put two ounces
of oil into the pan, lay in the fowl, season it; it must be done
gently, and will take half an hour, if young, but of a good size;
if rather an old bird, it will take one third more than the above
time.
152. Pigeons, whole,should be cut down the back the same as


MEAT IN FKYING-PAIT.
63
fowl; cut off the head, the pinions, and feet; season and fry with
an ounce of oil or fat. They will take ten minutes.
153. Babbits.—Cut them in pieces, remove all superfluous
bones, beat each piece flat, season them with pepper and salt,
place the pan on the fire with two ounces of fat, put in it two
onions, sliced, and then the rabbit; they will take twenty minutes
or more to do, gently; remove the pieces of rabbit; have the
liver, heart, and brains chopped up with a little parsley, and fry
with the remaining fat; when done pour off part of the fat; add
a gill of water, season it; give it a boil, and pour over the rabbit.
A little curry may be added, and boiled rice, served separate.
154. Poultry of all kinds,Devilled.—These are best made
by poultry previously cooked. The proper way is to do them
with the gridiron, but in case the fire is in that state that they
cannot be broiled, and the everlasting frying-pan must be made
use of, then prepare them as already described for broiling.
Place in the pan one ounce only of butter, and fry gently until
hot through. A slight improvement may be made in using the
frying-pan; it is to rub the bottom with garlic or eschalot before
placing the fat in, frying some onions at the same time. A
little bacon can also be fried with it.
CURIOUS EFFECTS OF IMAGINATION.
Here, Eloise, I again discuss a subject about which, some little
time since, we had an argument; but you will observe that the topic
is treated in quite a different manner, and you must use your own
discretion whether you will introduce ox liver or not. I can only say
that I and three friends dined off it yesterday, and they all declared,
it excellent. I assure you I am not jesting, they thought they were
eating calves' liver, and praised the way it was cooked.
Later in the day I put on a very long face, and asked one of them,
a cousin of mine, if he felt well, as the cook had made a great mistake
in preparing the dinner? He, knowing my mania for experiments,
turned very pale, and said, "No! No!" "Do not be frightened,
for it is nothing very bad; she used ox liver instead of calves'." The
poor fellow was greatly relieved, for he thought himself poisoned; but
still the idea of having eaten of the food which is generally given to
that domesticated and homely animal, pussy, made him uncomfort-
able all through the evening.
This is the effect of the imagination, as we have sufficient proofs.


64
MEAT IN FRYING-PAN.
in China, France, and elsewhere, that many objects which we detest
are considered the greatest luxuries.
A curious incident of the force of imagination occurred some years
since at a town not a hundred miles from Leicester. A candidate
for the borough, as M.P., a noble lord, having been unsuccessful, his
supporters proposed giving him a dinner to console him for his loss ;
he, however, could not attend, but sent them a raised pie of game,
about the size of a small carriage wheel, which was partaken of by his
supporters with great gusto. A few days after a letter arrived to
the chairman, as if from the noble lord, stating that he was glad they
liked the pie, as he had now got his revenge for their having deceived
him in the election—that the pie was composed of polecats, dogs,
rats, &C. &C. This letter wasshown to the members of the committee;
and it soon got noised about, and although four days had elapsed,
there was hardly a person that had partaken of it who was not ill.
The noble lord having left that part of the country, it was some days
before the hoax was found out.
155. 1st Lessen. New Style of Dressing Liver in Frying-
pan.—I dressed it thus: take about two pounds of ox liver;
remove the sinew and veins, cut it into long slices, half an inch
thick, put in two ounces of dripping in pan; when hot put in
three pieces at a time of liver until set; cut a quarter of a pound
of bacon in small dice, fry in fat, cut up the liver in small
dice, add it to the bacon, then add a tablespoonful of chopped
onions, the same of parsley, the same of flour, a teaspoonful of salt
and half of pepper, stir round, and then add half a pint of water,
or a little more if the flour is strong, till it forms a nice thickish.
sauce; put all into a dish, cover over with bread-crumbs, put a
little fat over, and place in the oven or before the fire for twenty
minutes; brown it over with a hot shovel, and serve. A few
poached eggs put on the top will give it a nice appearance, and
render it more nourishing. Curry may be used.
156. Minced Meat.—The remains of any kind of cooked meat
will be found very good; the meat having been previously done
will only require mincing. Cut in thin slices about one pound
of meat, put on a dish, sprinkle over about a teaspoonful of salt,
third ditto of pepper, one of flour, mix well, put in your frying-
pan, add half a pint of water, and a drop of colouring, if handy,
put on the fire, stir when it commences to boil, then place it
on the hob, let it simmer ten minutes, and serve.
N.B.—This is very plain, as you see, and can be made in any


MEAT IN FRYING-PAN.
pan or iron pot, but I place it here only for those who possess a
frying-pan.
Yon may now vary this economical dish in twenty different
ways; prepare always your meat, flour, salt, and pepper, as
above; you may add a teaspoonful of chopped herbs, such as
onion, chives, or parsley, or a tablespoonful of sharp pickles, or
made sauce, a little cayenne, spices, wine, or vinegar, may also be
used, and served on toast if approved of.
157. Minced Veal.— Any remains of roast veal may be
quickly dressed to good advantage, as follows, by the aid of the
frying-pan:—Cut all the meat and fat off the joint into small
dice; calculate the amount of fat you put with the lean, say three
ounces for every pound; when cut put a pound of it on a dish,
add to it a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, two spoonfuls
of flour, and a chopped onion; put in the pan half a pint
of water to boil, two teaspoonfuls of colouring; then put the
meat in, stir it, let it simmer gently for twenty minutes, and
serve on toast; poached eggs on it are very good; or put the
mince into a tin pan, bread-crumb over, drop a little butter or
dripping over, then put it in the oven, or before the fire to
brown. The mince may be made white by using milk instead
of water and colouring.
158. New Way of Mincing Meat.—Cut in small dice one
pound of either raw beef, mutton, pork, or veal, flesh and fat in
proportion; put in the pan two ounces of butter or dripping;
when hot, add the meat, stir it occasionally, and season it with
two small teaspoonfuls of salt, a little spice, half one of pepper.
When the meat is just set, put in a teaspoonful of flour, half a
pint of water; let it simmer twenty minutes, or, if tough, a
little longer, adding a gill more water, and serve; a little
eschalot, chives, or onions, chopped, may be added. If veal, lamb,
or pork, the sauce may be kept white, and milk may be used; if
beef or mutton, the sauce ought to be brown, and three teaspoon-
fuls of colouring added; the juice of a lemon, or a drop of
vinegar, is very good with it; ox kidneys may be done the
same way. This will make a good curry by the addition of
half a teaspoonful of that article.
158 A. Simplified way of Sashing all kindsof Cooked
Meat.—Cut a pound of meat, except salted meat, previously


66
MEAT m FRYING-PAN.
cooked, into thin slices, put it on a dish, add to it one teaspoon-
ful of flour, one and a half of salt, half a one of pepper, mixing all
together well, then put all in the frying-pan, adding half a pint
of cold water; set it on the fire; let it remain there until it has
simmered ten minutes; take up, and serve.
2nd Lesson. Proceed as above, but vary flavour with either
of the following ingredients: use either a teaspoonful of chopped
onions, eschalot, parsley, a few mushrooms, pickles, sauce, or
ketchup.
The above can be done in either black pot, iron saucepan, or
frying-pan.
159. All the above can be made as curries, and served with
rice, by first frying one onion, cut up small, and half a large
baking-apple, also cut small; then add the meat, give it a fly, mix with half a pint of water, one teaspoonful of good curry
powder, pour it over the meat, give it a simmer for ten
minutes, and serve with boiled rice separate.
160. Bubbleand Squeak.—Any remains of salt beef or pork
may be dressed in this old, but good and economical fashion.
Cut your meat, when cold, in thin slices, to the weight of about
a pound, including, if possible, from two to three ounces of fat;
then take one or two Savoy cabbages, according to size, which,
when boiled and chopped, ought to weigh about two pounds; cut
each cabbage in four, throw a few of the green outside leaves away,
as likewise the stalk; put about a gallon of water in an iron sauce-
pan; when boiling add your cabbage, and let it remain about
twenty minutes, or until tender; drain them well, and chop them
up rather fine; then add three ounces of either butter or dripping
in the frying-pan, which put on the fire; when hot put in your
slices of meat, which semi-fry of a nice brownish colour, on
both sides; take them out, put them on a dish, keep them
warm; then put the cabbage in the pan with the fat, add a tea-
spoonful of salt, the same quantity of pepper; stir round till hot
throughout; put on the dish, lay the meat over, and serve; if no
cabbage, any green will do, first boiled, drained, chopped, and
fried. Boiled carrots and turnips, previously cooked and chopped,
may be added to the cabbage.
161. Fritters of Meat, Poultry, Fish, and Fruits.—The fol-


MEAT IN FBYING-PAN.
67
lowing is thirty receipts in one:—Put a pound of the crumb of
bread to soak in cold water, take the same quantity of any kind
of boiled or roasted meat, a little fat, which chop in dice
rather fine, press the water out of the bread; put in the pan
two ounces of butter, lard, or dripping, with two teaspoonfuls of
chopped onions, fry two minutes, add the bread, stir with a
wooden spoon until rather dry, then add the meat, season with
a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, if
handy; stir till quite hot; then add two eggs, one at a time, mix
very quick, and pour on dish to cool.
Then roll it into the shape of small eggs, then in flour,
egg them and bread-crumb, fry (as No. 72) a nice yellow colour;
serve plain, or with any sharp or any other sauce you fancy.
162. Innumerable are the receipts that can be made in this
way; in fact, from everything that is eatable, and at any season of
the year,—from the remains of meat, poultry, game, fish,
vegetables, using the same amount of seasoning. Bread soaked
in milk is better.
163. The same can be done with chopped dried fruits, and
preserved fruits, using a quarter of a pound more bread; fry, and
sift powdered sugar and cinnamon over. Cream may be used
for fruits or cards. They may also be fried in batter, like fritters, instead of bread-
crumbs.
There is no end to what may be done with these receipts.
They may be fried, and when cold put between paste, cut into
nice pieces of any shape, and baked. They can be ornamented,
and made worthy the table of the greatest epicure, if the bread
be soaked in cream, and spirits or liquor introduced in them.
164. Tripe, Lyons fashion.—Boil two pounds of tripe; when
done, drain it, dry with a cloth, cut it in pieces about an inch
square, put in the pan four ounces of butter, four middling-sized
onions cut in slices, fry for a few minutes, then add the tripe, stir
them every four minutes for about a quarter of an hour, then put
in a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, two tablespoonfuls
of vinegar, mixed well, and it will be ready for serving.
Vermicelli, boiled in the water that the tripe has been
boiled in, makes good soup. Rice or bread is nice done thi»
way. The addition of a teaspoonful of curry, one spoonful of


68
MEAT IN FRYING-PAN.
flour, and half a pint of broth or water, will make a good
curry with the tripe.
165. A Fried, Toad in the Sole.—Take a steak of the size
required, not less in thickness than what I have before stated,
and partly fry on both sides; have ready a pint of second-class
batter, as No. 470; remove the steak for a minute, add more fat
in the pan, put in the batter when it is beginning to become as
thick as paste, place the steak in the middle, raise the frying-pan
a sufficient height from the fire on a trivet, so as to cook gently;
'turn it over; or put the pan in the oven; when well set it is
done; serve on a dish, the bottom uppermost.
165 a. Tripe Sautid.—Have the tripe already boiled tender;
put into the pan two ounces of fat, with two onions in slices;
fry them; when brown add the tripe, which must be dry; when
they get a little brown add salt, pepper, a pint of second-class
batter, No. 462; proceed as above.
The same Curried.—Proceed as above; add one teaspoonful
of the curry powder instead of the vinegar.
The same with Pickle.—Proceed as above; adding piccalilly,
or gherkins cut small.
166. The Remains of other kinds of Cold Roast Meats
may be done in this way, and, when eggs are cheap, poach half-
a-dozen, which put on the top.
167. The Remains of Fish, previously cooked, are very good
done in this way. A piece of conger eel or ling, about four inches
thick, partly boiled in salt water with onions and parsley, and
boned, will make a very economical and also a Lenten dish.
168. Veal or Mutton, cut into pieces, about two inches
square, and thin, may be fried and added to the batter.
169. BeefCollops, Fried.—Take a piece of steak, part and cut
thin into pieces of about two inches square, let it be free from
sinews, have the frying-pan well greased, add the pieces of meat,
do them quickly, sprinkle salt, pepper, and a little flour over
them whilst doing; and when nearly done add any flavour you
like, either of curry, pickles tomato, or a little vinegar. Serve
very hot.


soyer's raking stewing-pan.
69
170. Veal Cutlets for the Aged.—Cut one pound of veal in
eight or ten pieces; season with a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of
pepper, little chopped parsley; then take each piece separate,
and with the back of the knife beat them well till nearly in
a pulp; give them the shape of cutlets with a knife; egg and
breadcrumb; heat them nice and smooth, put two ounces of
lard in the frying-pan; when rather hot, fry a nice colour; servo
plain, or with sharp sauce, No. 411. These may be done, as a
general dish, by adding a little fried bacon and chopped onions
in the frying-pan. They are extremely tender and full of gravy
Beef, mutton, and lamb, may be done the same way. Sausage-
meat of beef or pork may be here introduced, shaped and fried
the same.
INTRODUCTION TO BAKING STEW-PAN.
My dear Eloise,—In some of my former letters, I have stated that
the principal art of cookery consists in knowing the exact time each
object requires to be subjected to the action of the fire; whether it
be direct, or by the assistance of either roasting, frying, baking, or
boiling. Large quantities of food may be treated in such a manner,
that no more nutriment shall be obtained than by smaller quantities j
but to learn this requires practice and attention, more than those to
whom we wish to dedicate these letters can probably give.
I have been thinking in what way we could obviate the present
loss, which either ascends the chimney to disperse in thin air, or
pervades the apartments of the house to the inconvenience of its
inmates.
I am the more particularly led to the consideration of this subject
from having, in my rambles, entered a cottage, the other day, from
which an odour proceeded, as if something more than ordinary cookery
was going on, when I found a large pot of a kind of Irish stew boiling
away on the fire, and the fragrance of the vegetables and meat dis-
persed over the apartment. Entering into conversalion with the
occupant, whom I found to be the wife of a carpenter on the adjoining
estate, and who was preparing the table for six persons to dine, I
soon found she had no mean opinion of her abilities in cooking. I
remonstrated with her on the waste she was making, and at once
took up a plate, and held it over the pot, so as to intercept the
steam, when it was shortly covered by condensed steam and small
particles ot flbrine, which I convinced her would be much better
used in giving nutriment to her family than in mingling with the
soot in the chimney.


soyee's raking stewing-pan.
73
Or, instead of cutting the leg or any other part of the beast,
the cheek may be put in whole, letting it weigh about four
pounds. This process of cooking will make it very palatable
and tender; to vary it, the meat may be larded, and a bunch of
herbs (No. 460) added, also cloves, nutmeg, mace, or a little
garlic.
175. Beef with Vegetables.—Peel two carrots, two turnips,
two onions, cut in pieces, put some vegetables at the bottom,
then the meat in centre; season, and cover over with remaining
vegetables; add a few cloves, a pint of water, or half ale and
half water; put in slow oven for three hours, take off the fat,
and serve. Four pounds of any inferior part of beef will eat
tender done thus.
176. Ox Tail.—Cut them at the joint, although I prefer
them sawed through the piece; have ready some chopped onions
and a little herbs; roll each piece in flour, place them carefully
in the pan, with some of the onions and seasoning; add a pint of
water, bake three hours, take off the fat, and serve.
177. Ox Heart and Kidneys.—The heart does not enjoy a
very high reputation. I mean not only with the wealthy, but
with the laborious part of the population, in consequence of the
difficulty experienced in cooking it properly. It is thus generally
left on the hands of the butcher, and consequently sold cheap;
but I trust these receipts will occasion a change, and induce them
to purchase those provisions which are now despised.
178. —Wash an ox heart in several waters, cut it in six pieces
lengthways, like steak, lay a few slices of potatoes at the bottom
of the pan, then a few slills of bacon, then the heart, then bacon
again, and then potatoes over all; a few slices of beef suet,
instead of the bacon, if none handy; it should be cut thin;
season as you fill up, add half a pint of water, bake one hour,
and serve.
179. —If a small heart, buy half an ox kidney, cut out the hard
part, and divide it into small pieces, and mix it with the heart;
if you can get a cow-heel already boiled, which is the case in
large towns, it may be added in pieces, omitting the bone.
180. Calves', Sheep's, Pig's, or Ox Heart, stewed whole.—


74
SOYER'S BAKING STEW1NG-PAN.
Fill a heart, as for roasting, with stuffing, No. 456a. Put in r,
four quart pan a piece of fat bacon half an inch thick, and on it
the heart, the thick part downwards; cut into slices some
potatoes, carrots, turnips, and onions, and a piece of bacon cut
in dice; season it with three teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper: fill up round the heart until the pan is full, put in a
pint of water, and bake for two hours. A teaspoonful of sugar
and three of browning may be added.
181. —Tongues, brains, and liver, ought to be set before
putting in the pot. The tongue should be boiled for ten minutes,
and then skinned. These may be done in the same way as the
preceding.
182. —But supposing you have all these, and you wish to
mix them together, then cut them into thin slices, leaving out
the brain; put them on a dish, and for every pound of meat
season with one teaspoonful of salt and a quarter ditto of
pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of flour; then have one onion and
half a pound of potatoes cut in slices to each pound of meat, and
place in the pot as before, mixing the brain cut in pieces; add
half a pint of water to each pound of meat; bake according to
size.
Layers of suet pudding may be used instead of potatoes, and
cover it with paste.
183. Good Plain Family Irish Stew. — Take about two
pounds of scrag or neck of mutton; divide it into ten pieces,
lay them in the pan; cut eight large potatoes and four onions
in slices, season with one teaspoonful and a half of pepper, and
three of salt; Cover all with water; put it into a slow oven for
two hours, then stir it all up well, and dish up in deep dishes.
If you add a little more water at the commencement, you can
take out when half done, a nice cup of broth.
The same simplified.—Put in a pan two pounds ot meat
as before, which lay at the bottom; cover them with eight whole
onions, and these with twelve whole potatoes; season as before;
cover over with water, and send to the oven for two hours.
Almost any part of the sheep can be used for Irish stew.
A gallon pan is required for this and the preceding receipt.
184. Ox Tongue, Potted and Braized.—I send you this


soter's raking stewing-pah.
75
receipt as a bonne bouche, it being a dish worthy a first-class
picnic or the race-course. Take a tongue from the pickle, and
wash it clean; cut off a part of the rough pieces of the root,
put a thick slice of bacon at the bottom of the pan, and
over that a pound of lean beefsteak or veal, and then the
tongue turned round to fit the pan; have a cow-heel, parboiled
and ready boned, place it on the tongue, and cover it with
another slice of bacon, and a slice of beef or veal; season with
two teaspoonfuls of pepper, a little powdered ginger and cloves,
one bay-leaf, one carrot sliced, and two onions sliced; add two
wineglassfuls of brandy or sherry, four of old ale, and one quart
of water; cover well over, and put in a slow oven for three hours,
take off the cover, and put a piece of board with a weight on the
top until cold, then the next day turn it out of the pan, which
you can do by placing the pan in hot water. But should you
wish to use the tongue hot for dinner, take it out, and when
done with it, put the remains in and press, as before described.
The vegetables may be also pressed in with the meat or served
hot round the tongue.
The remains of pickled ox tongues are very nice, intermixed
and placed in a pan, and pressed, when they will turn out like
collared head. A tongue boiled in plain water will take about
two hours.
185. Ox Tongue,Fresh and Pichled.—Put in the pan, as
above, add two carrots, four turnips, four cloves, ten small
dumplings, (see No. 349,) fill the pan with water, add either a
little bay-leaf, thyme, or winter savory; stew in an oven for
three hours, trim and dish up with vegetables, and dumplings
found, making soup of the broth. For fresh ox tongue, proceed
as above, adding three teaspoonfuls of salt.
186. Veal.—Take two pounds of the leg of veal, or meat from
the shoulder, or the neck or breast, in fact any part, cut in pieces;
season it with one teaspoonful and a half of salt, and a half ot
pepper, and add a quarter of a pound of bacon cut in slices.
To vary the seasoning, use herbs, (No. 451 , It will also
be very good with some suet pudding, previously boiled in small
calls, if you omit either potatoes or stuffing. The pieces of veal
should be rolled in flour; add half a pint of water, if with
potatoes, and more, if pudding or stuffing; bake one hour and
a half, and serve. Mushrooms may be added.


76 soyek's raking stewing-pan.
187. Purchase six calves' tails, and after having had them
washed, cut them about two inches in length, and cook them
as above, with the addition of more vegetables, as carrots,
turnips, &c. They are excellent and nutritious thus.
188. —Brown Ragout of Veal.—Take two pounds of the
breast, cut it into rather small pieces, about the size of an egg,
roll them well in flour, put some fat in the frying-pan, fry the
meatwntil a nice brown, take it out, and then fry four onions,
two turnips cut in large dice, and one carrot the same; when
brown take them out, put the veal and vegetables into pan, season
with two teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, add a pint of
water, to which has been added four teaspoonfuls of browning;
put into oven for one hour, skim the fat, shake the pan,
and serve. A few herbs and a little ham or bacon is an im-
provement. Beef, mutton, lamb, and pork may be done the
same way. A teaspoonful of sugar is an improvement.
189. Fillet of Veal for an Extra Dinner.—A small fillet of
veal, boned and stuff with No. 456; tie it up tight, put some fat
into a fryingpan, about an inch deep; put in the fillet, fry
gently until one side is brown, and then put in the otner side
until brown; fry in the same pan some large button onions
whole, some turnips and carrots, cut in pieces the size of eggs;
put the fillet into a pan, with a piece of fat bacon at the
bottom; fill up round it with the vegetables; put another
piece of bacon on the top, add some seasoning to the vege-
tables, and a pint of water; put on the cover, so that the
steam does not escape; put it into a slow oven, giving a quarter
of an hour for each pound weight. When served take out the
fillet, put the gravy into a small basin, and skim off the fat;
pour the gravy over the veal, and either serve the vegetables
round the fillet or separate. A little browning is an improve-
ment.
190. The following is another favourite dish of mine:—It is
to lard a calf's liver with about twenty pieces of bacon (see No.
450), put about a quarter of a pound of fat or dripping into a
frying pan, fry for twenty minutes until of a nice brown colour,
place it in the baking stew-pan, also fry a quarter of a pound of
bacon cut in dice, twenty large button onions, twenty pieces of


SOYERS BAKING STEWING-PAN.
77
carrot, twenty of turnip; when a nice colour throw two ounces of
flour over them, and stir; three teaspoonfuls of salt, and a small
one of pepper, two of sugar; put all this into the pan, add three
pints of hot coloured water No. 462 a, and a bunch of sweet herbs;
shake the pan well, and place in oven for two hours; skim the
fat and serve. These preparations are for a large sized liver.
Pig's, lambs, and sheep's liver, is excellent done thus. You
may place all the above ingredients in the baking pan without
frying any; it will be very good, though not so savoury in
flavour.
191. Beef-a-la-Mode.—Take a piece of the thick part of the
rump of beef, about four pounds, not too fat; take half a pound
of fat bacon and a calf's foot; cut the bacon into pieces about two
inches long and half an inch square, lard the beef through with
the bacon (see No. 459), place the beef in the pan, and also the
foot, divided in two, and a bunch of sweet herbs, two middle-
sized carrots, cut into squares, and twenty button onions, or
four or six large ones, cut into slices; add half a quartern of
brandy, a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, one pint of
water, put the cover on the pan, to prevent the steam escaping,
and send it to the baker's for three hours; should it be done
at home, turn the pan so that the heat is equal on all sides;
when done remove the fat from the top, put the beef in a dish,
with the foot on each side, and the carrots and onions round;
throw the gravy over; take away the herbs. This, you may
perceive, is a most exquisite dish, will keep good many days in
winter, and five or six in summer. It is good cold.
192. The same plainer.—Proceed as above, adding half a
pint of old ale instead of the brandy, or a wineglass of vinegar
and an ox-foot instead of a calf's-foot. Any piece of the fleshy
part of the ox is good done so.
193. The same, to be eaten cold.—Cut the beef into square
pieces, of a quarter of a pound each, cut ten pieces of lean,
bacon three inches long, have a cowheel already boiled in about
two quarts of water, with two onions, pepper and salt, and a little
vinegar; take the cowheel and remove all the bones, and place it,
with the meat and bacon, in the pan, with the liquor in which
the heel was boiled, two carrots, cut into small dice, ten gherkins
cut into slices, and sent to the oven for three hours; take off the


78
soyer's raking stewing-pan.
cover, and place a flat piece of board on the top of the meat, with
a heavy weight, so as to make it firm; and when cold use it. It
is very good for breakfast. To remove it from the pan place the
pan in hot water for a few minutes, and turn it over; it will
come out easily, and cut like brawn, or it may be cut from the pan.
194. Leg, Breast, Scrag, and Head of Lamb.—These may
all be done as follows:—Put it into a gallon pan, with one
carrot, two turnips, one leek, cut in thick slices, thirty young
button onions whole, three teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper,
cover with water, and set it on the fire, or in your oven for
one hour; at the end of one hour put in one pint of peas, a
little green mint, and a teaspoonful of sugar; set it by the side
of the fire or in the oven for half an hour longer, and serve.
This is for a leg or joint of five pounds weight; for a larger one
take a little longer time. A bunch of parsley and sweet-herbs
may be added, but should be removed when served. The
flavour is exquisite, Al may be served with vegetable or with-
out, as liked, but then the broth should be strained, and the
vegetables served separate, or the broth made into spring or
other soups.
195. Pork.—Any part, not too fat, is exceedingly good done
in this way: Cut two pounds in slices, rather large and thin,
season with salt and pepper, then add a few slices of fat, then
some slices of potatoes, then pork and then potatoes, until all is
in; add half a pint of water. Bake one hour and a half.
196. Another way with Apple.—Cut the pork in thick pieces,
peel two baking apples, four onions, and eight potatoes, cut them
in slices, season with pepper and salt, and, if liked, a little
powdered sage, intermix the vegetables, lay the slices and the
vegetables together, half a pint of water, or enough to cover it.
Bake two hours and serve.
197. Another, simpler.—When in a great hurry proceed thus:
•—Put in a dish two pounds of pork in slices, one onion, one pound
of potatoes, also sliced; two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of pepper,
one of flour; mix all well together, put it in the pan with half a
pint of water. Bake one hour and a half. A little bone may
be used with the meat.
198. Salt Pork with Peas.—Take two pounds of the belly


80
SOYER'S BAKING STEWTXG-PAN.
203. Beef and Pork.—Semi-Carthusian Fashion.—Sausages,
cervelas, saveloys, beef sausages, knuckles of ham, and salted
pig's feet and tongue, which are daily to be obtained in London,
may be dressed in this way: Buy two good savoys or white
cabbages, cut them in four, take out the hard stalk, and boil
them for ten minutes in water; place them in a dish to drain;
cut the quarters igain into four, lay some at the bottom of the
pan, then a few sausages and Baveloys, season with salt and
pepper, and then fill up the pan; then add two ounces of
dripping or suet, half a pint of water, bake one hour and a half,
and serve with cabbage under, and sausages on the top.
Red cabbage with saveloys are preferable; then add one gill
of vinegar, a few peppercorns; stew them longer, and serve as
above. I have tried with raw cabbage; it is not bad, and saves
time.
Two or three onions sliced may be added, or one large Spanish
onion.
This receipt will do for pig's feet, knuckles of ham, trimmings
of ham or pork, a piece of cooked brisket of beef, which is generally
sold underdone, in which case the cabbage should be done first.
Sheeps' and pigs' tongues are very good done in this way, and
they make a cheap and wholesome meal.
204. Large Dutch Rabbits.—Put into a one gallon pan a
rabbit, cut into about eighteen or twenty pieces; peel eight
onions, twenty potatoes cut into thin slices; also half a pound
of bacon cut into dice, season with salt and pepper, then
place the meat and potatoes in layers, add nearly a pint of
water; cover over and bake two hours ; shake the pan round and
serve.
205. Curry Rabbits.—Proceed as above; only add to the
water two teaspoonfuls of curry powder; let it well mix, or
season with it at the same time as the other seasoning.
The same may be done with rice instead of potatoes, but use
two quarts of water to every pound of rice. One pound of good
rice ought to weigh five pounds when boiled.
206. Plain Rabbit, Chicken,or Pigeons for Invalids.—
The rabbit should be cut into nice pieces; the chicken in
quarters; the pigeons into halves; place it in a two-quart pan>


SEMI-ROASTING IN BAKING STEWING-PAN. 81
with a quarter of a pound of bacon cut in dice, a little salt and
pepper; a few sprigs of parsley, and half a pint of water, if the
pan is not quite full; fill up with some small pieces of veal; put
a plain paste over all, No. 317; put cover close over, and bake
one hour. Skim the fat off, and serve.
HOW TO USE THE PAN FOR SEMI-ROASTING.
The deep tin dish at the bottom of the pan is to contain either
pudding, gravy, or vegetables, the grating above is to lay any meat,
poultry, fish, or game on, you wish to cook by this process.
207. Ribsof Beef semi-roasted.—Purchase two ribs of beef,
bone them, then season the interior of the meat with salt and
pepper; roll the meat round like a cheese, using a piece of
string or a skewer to keep it in that position; make a quart of
batter, as No. 462 i put it in your pan, which previously well
grease; put the grating over, and lay your meat on it, surround-
ing it with potatoes either whole or cut; allowing from twelve
to fifteen minutes for each pound of meat, according to the
state of the oven. Dish up the beef with the potatoes round,
and serve the pudding in the tin, or turn it out on a dish. The
beef may be stuffed with stuffing, No. 464.
Nothing is more objectionable to me than to see salt put on
the top of a roast joint, and water poured over to make the gravy.
The only way to remedy this is to put a gill of boiling water
and a little salt on the hot dish you intend putting the meat on,
turning the joint in it once during the interval of a minute;
and, whilst carving, the juice from the meat will mingle with
it and make a good gravy. Half a teaspoonful of colouring,
much improves its appearance. This is applicable to all roasted
or semi-roasted joints.
For large ribs of beef or sirloins, you can put the salt on the
bones at the back of the joint, and pour half a pint of boiling
water over; not however disturbing the meat.
Brown gravy, No. 2, or broth, No. 1, will be found pre-
ferable to either of the above.
208. Mutton semi-roasted,.—Half a leg of mutton, about
'our pounds, potatoes and pudding, if liked, under, will take
about one hour. Shoulder the same.
209. Pork semi-roasted.—Place in the bottom four apples,
peeled, four onions sliced, and potatoes, and over that a joint of


SOYer's raking stewing-pan.
S3
To semi-roast a Joint with gravy only.—Put in the pan half
a pint of water, together with half a teaspoonful of salt, hall
that of pepper. When done, take off the fat, add a little colour-
ing, pour under the joint, and serve.
USEFUL HINTS ON THE PIG.
Once or twice a year every cottnger ought to kill a pig. If a
pig is washed and kept clean, it softens the skin and allows it to
expand; in fact, a pig thus treated comes much quicker round; it is
proved that a pig at fourteen months, kept clean, is equal to one at
eighteen which is not attended to. The same day some of the liver
may be fried, but the rest can be used in the pan as follows :—
213. Cut it into large dice; put two ounces of fat or dripping into
frying-pan, cut up a quarter of a pound of bacon into small dice,
fry them for five minutes, and then shake over a teaspoonful of
flour, put in the liver, with one teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of
pepper, fry it for five minutes, add a gill of water, keep stirring,
and put it into pan, with a pound of turnips cut in small dice,
four onions cut in four, and half a pint of boiling water; put into
a slow oven for fifty minutes, and then serve with toasted
sippets round the dish. A bunch of herbs, No. 460, may be added.
Veal, sheeps', lambs', and ox liver, and kidneys, may all be
done the same way; less time for lamb and more for ox; any
other vegetables may be used, and particularly mushrooms.
214. Veal.—Take six pounds of veal usually used for roasting,
rub it with salt, put half a pint of water in the tin, and potatoes
above, and then the veal; it will take two hours. When it is
served, take off the fat from the gravy in the pan, and pour over
the veal, reserving the fat for puddings. A piece of bacon and
greens should be boiled at home, or a small piece of bacon may
be placed with the potatoes; dish the veal with the potatoes, and
bacon round it or separate; add a little colouring to gravy.
A piece of veal stuffed may be roasted thus. Or, for gravy,
make melted butter No. 410, with four teaspoonfuls of Harvey
sauce, or ketchup, and pour it over.
215. Toad in the Hole.—No. 1.—May be made in either a
baking-dish, pie-dish, or tin. Get about two pounds of trimmings
if either beef, mutton, veal, or lamb, not too fat, and cut them


Si soyer's raking stewing-pah.
into pieces, each about the size of a small egg; season with salt and pepper, make about two quarts of batter, second class;
grease the pan well, put in the meat and batter, and place in a
slow oven for nearly two hours, and serve hot.
No. 2, with Potatoes.—Proceed as before. When the pan is
ready put about two pounds of previously boiled potatoes, cut in
slices, and bake as before. /
No. 3, with Peas.—Proceed as before, only adding about one
quart of good green peas, previously boiled; broad beans may be
used the same way.
No. 4.—Remains of cooked meat may be done the same way,
but it will take less time to cook.
No. 5. — Calves', or any brains, previously parboiled in
water, and the skin removed, well seasoned with pepper aud salt,
and a few slices of bacon added to the batter, make a very
delicate dish.
No. 6.—Six larks or twelve sparrows, with a slice of bacon
skewered round each, with the batter, and put into the oven for
two hours.
No. 7.—Ox cheek and sheeps' heads, previously cooked and
nicely seasoned, with the addition of a little chopped onions
added to the batter, is an economical dish. A few slices of
cooked potatoes may be added.
No. 8.—Truss a rabbit for roasting, make a stuffing with the
liver, &C., chopped up, bread-crumbs, beef-suet, and seasoning;
stuff the rabbit; lay on the bottom of the pan a thick slice of
fat bacon, and oyer that a slice, one inch thick, of beefsteak, and
then the rabbit, to which add two quarts of batter; place in the
oven for two hours, and serve hot. This is enough for a large
family. The rabbit may be cut in pieces; boiled cauliflower
may be added.
No. 9.—Remains of previously cooked hare may be done in
the same way, with some currant-jelly in the stuffing.
No. 10.—A blade-bone of pork, two onions, cut in slices, and
four potatoes sliced, pepper and salt, and one quart of batter
put over them; place in the oven one hour, and serve hot


soyeb's raking stewing-pah.
85
No. 11.—Remains of salt pork, or any roast meat, may all be
done in this way, and varied according to the taste of the
partaker.
Remains of any kind of fish may also be done thus, with
previously boiled potatoes.
216. Jugged Mare.—Cut a small hare into pieces about the
size of eggs, cut half a pound of bacon into dice, not too small,
lay both on a dish, mix together three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of
pepper, four of flour, three of chopped onions, one of powdered
thyme and bay-leaf, four cloves, and a quarter of a nutmeg,
grated; rub the hare and bacon with these; place them in the
pan. Having saved the blood, chop up the liver and mix with
it, add to it a wineglass of brandy, or two of port or sherry, or
one of vinegar, or half a pint of ale, stout, or porter, and a pint of
water; put this in the pan, and cover over with pudding-paste No.
319; put on the cover; shake the whole well to make it mix; and
bake for three hours, if an old hare; if a young one two hours.
It is equally as good cold as hot. If eaten hot, a little currant-
jelly should be served with it.
Some stuffing No. 456, made into little balls, can be added
with advantage, or even a few suet balls, and two tablespoonfuls
of colouring; mix with the water. It can be done plainer, with
salt and peppr?~,nd water only; or twenty small onions and eight
potatoes, cut i/. *?ices, may be added, or even mushrooms may be
put in.
217. Jugged Hare, Marinaded.—It should be cut as above,
and put into a bowl, with half water and half vinegar to cover
it; four teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, four of brown
sugar, two onions cut in slices, a little thyme, a bay-leaf, cloves,
peppercorns; turn them now and then for four days, and cook as
above, with the marinade in.
218. How to cook all kinds of Fish in Baking Stew-pan.
—Take six pounds of any fish, cut it crossways, two inches
thick, put them in the pan, with salt, pepper, chopped onions; fill
it up; well intermix the seasoning; when full, put in a basin four
ounces of flour, which mix with a quart of water, which pour
over, shake the pot, well cover it, bake two hours in rather a hot
oven; seasoning to be four teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper,
two onions, and chopped parsley; onions may be omitted, but use
Vp»bs and mixed spice.


soyer's raking stewing-pan.
ST
salt, pepper, chopped onions, a little thyme; continue until full,
add a glass of sherry, half a pint of water, cover over with some
crust, either pie or pudding, put on the lid, and bake one hour.
Seasoning, two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of pepper, and two
of chopped onions. Take the oil off, and serve.
224. A Piece of Beef stewed in Baking Pan.—Get three
wing ribs of beef, hone them, season with salt and pepper on.
each side; to vary the flavour, chopped parsley and a little spice
may be added, or even chopped onions; roll it round, and fasten
it with string; rub more salt on it, and place it in the pan;
send it to the baker's ; four pounds will take one hour. This
is the best part to hone, but most other pieces may be used.
Stuff by making an incision in the lean part, and binding it
rip with string.
225. —If you wish a Yorkshire pudding and potatoes to be
baked at the same time, they may be placed in it, and when it
comes home all will be found excellent. Instead of the gratings
in the pan, it may be divided in two, one for pudding and the
other for potatoes.
All joints may be done the same way.
226. To Boil Meat in Pan.—Spice Beef.—Take four pounds
of the thick ribs of beef, or any part, put in the pan, with a pint
of water, a teaspoonful of allspice, two of salt, two bayleaves,
two eschalots, or a little garlic; stew three hours, either in oven
or on the fire, keeping the cover well closed; half an hour before
being done add a teacupful of the raspings of bread, half a pint
of vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, simmer, dish up, and sauce over.
227. Salt Meat.—To plain-boil this in the oven, which can be
done when no fire is required at home, put six pounds of salt
beef into a six-quart pan, with four whole parsnips, two large
carrots, and six dumplings; send them to the oven for two
hours; dish up the meat with the vegetables, and dumplings
wound. The liquor can be saved and made into soup; the
Tegetables can be cut in two.
All kinds of salt meat can be done the same. If the broth
be too salt add some water, and use for pea-soup.
G


ON ROASTING.
89
with treacle over. This cottage was cleaner than any of the others,
and the children were neatly dressed, and about to change their
costume, in order to do full justice to the treacle dumplings. In
giving those rosy-cheeked urchins a few pence, I retired much grati-
fied by my visit to these antediluvian workmen, who pass one-third
of their life in the bowels of the earth.
You will perceive from what I have said, that to the artisan,
labourer, and even the small tradesman, the old mode of roasting,
which comes to us from Homeric ages and primitive times, is an extra-
vagant and wasteful mode of cooking, and the sooner it is reformed
the better. Though it is preferable to meat done in a baker's oven,
if well attended to.
But first let me add one more remark on the experience of that
day. Returning to the Normanton Hotel to dinner, we had a beau-
tiful dish of greens; and what do you think those greens were?
Green young nettles, which I had asked the gardener to gather for
me the day previous, and in less than half an hour we had a basket
full. I picked them with gloves, but he made a grasp at a large
quantity, and I found that they did not prick him. He got them as
fast as a monkey could get chestnuts out of hot cinders. The cook
dressed them, according to my directions, exactly like spinach, and
most who ate of them thought they were spinach, only rather too hot
of pepper, which is their peculiar nature.
I found that they are known in this part of the country as being
good and wholesome in the spring; but because the people can have
them for nothing, they will not partake of them; like the water-
cresses, that rot in every clear stream in the neighbourhood. I intend
to make another trial or so on the nettles, which I will forward to you.
HOW TO ROAST.
Having, thus far, given you some of my experience as regards
roasting, I will, in as few words as possible, describe the simple plan
of roasting before the fire, which, I must again repeat, is far from
being economical. The artisan requires as much nourishment as
possible, and should not pay extravagantly for fancy joints, or those
called the best, because most in vogue for roasting. Let the wealthy
pay for their taste, as they do for their Raphaels, Rubens, and
Murillos; it is no reason, because they do so, that a labouring man
should imitate them, and because one has a leg of mutton, the other
should likewise have one. This very day I have seen, in Nottingham
market, all the best joints sold by the butchers, and nothing but the
necks of mutton and the coarse pieces of beef left, which, they tell
me, hang for days and days, lessening both quality and quantity, and
then are sold at twopence or threepence per pound. This causes
Mie joints most in vogue to be dear, whilst there is quite as macs


90
ON THE ECONOMY Of BOASTING BY GAS.
nourishment in proportion in those sold at half the price when cooked
fresh.
I must here, however, describe the proper system of roasting
either before the fire or by gas (see note). And as an invariable rule,
all dark meats, such as beef and mutton, should be put down to a
sharp fire for at least fifteen minutes, until the outside has a coating
of osmazome or gravy, then remove it back, and let it do gently.
Lamb, veal, and pork, if young and tender, should be done at a
moderate fire. Veal even should be covered with paper.
Very rich meat, if covered with paper, does not require basting
Fowls, &c., should be placed close to the fire, to set the skin, and in
about ten minutes rubbed over with a small piece of butter, pressed in
a spoon. Roast meats should be dredged with flour, just at the time
when the gravy begins to appear; the flour absorbs it, and forms
a coating which prevents any more coming out. Hares and small
game the same.
COTTAGE BOASTING.
In the first place, the fire must be made up, and cleared from
ashes. Place before it the dripping-pan, and from above the fire,
suspend from a hook a piece of worsted thread, sufficiently strong to
bear the joint, aud a hook suspended at the end. Have a piece of
stick forked at one end, which place against the mantle-piece, so that
Note.
ON THE COMFORT AND ECONOMY OF BOASTING BY
GAS, WHERE IT CAN BE PROCURED. Experiment made at the Moyal Naval School, Greenwich Hospital,
by M. Soyer.
Two interesting trials have taken place at the above establishment
with an apparatus manufactured by Messrs. Smith and Phillips,
patentees, of Skinner-street, Snow-hill, under the superintendence of
M. Soyer, which in their results finally determine the question on
the merits and economy of roasting by gas.
The result of the first trial, which took place on the 8th inst.,
was, that 36 legs of mutton, weighing 288 lbs., were roasted at a
cost of 1*. 2d.
In order to arrive at more positive results in regard to its economy
a second trial was deemed requisite, which took place on the lltfc
inst., when equal weights of mutton were cooked. Twenty-threa
joints, weighing 184 lbs., were roasted by gas, at a cost of 10j<i.,
with gas supplied at 4s. per 1000 feet. When cooked, the above
weight of meat was found to weigh 145 lbs., dripping 19 lbs, and


COTTAGE BOASTING.
91
it keeps the thread at a sufficient distance from the fire. By having
two pieces of stick, the distances can be easily managed. Twist the
worsted; put on the joint; give it a sufficient distance from the
fire. This is quite equal to either a smoke or bottle-jack for cottage
use.
Every cottage should have a moveable piece of iron or steel
screwed on the mantel-piece, with teeth fixed in it, so as to
be able to hang the joint at any distance from the fire. See
Appendix, at end of book.
TIME TABLE FOR ROASTING.
228. Ten pounds of beef will take from two hours to two
hours and a half roasting, eighteen inches from a good fire.
Six pounds one hour and a quarter to one hour and a half,
fourteen inches from the fire.
Three ribs of beef, boned and rolled (see No. 207), well tied
round with paper, will take two hours and a half, eighteen
inches from the fire, and only baste once.
If beef is very fat, it does not require basting; if very lean,
tie it up in greasy paper, and baste well.
229. Eight pounds of veal will take from one hour and a half
gravy, or osmazome, 2^ lbs., thus showing the actual loss to be
18'- lbs. Twenty-three joints of mutton were cooked in the usual
way, as adopted at the institution, namely, in one of Count Rom-
ford's ovens, hitherto considered the most economical way of roasting.
When put in they weighed 184 lbs., when done 132 lbs., dripping
18 lbs., gravy none, thus showing a loss of 34 lbs. The coke con-
sumed in this oven was 102 lbs., coal 30 lbs., thus proving the great
economy of gas over the oven by a saving of 13 lbs. of meat, 1 lb. of
dripping, 2f lbs. of gravy. The value of the saving is as follows:—
Meat at 6d. per lb., 6s. 6d.; dripping at 5d. per lb., hd., and gravy
at Is. 6d. per lb., 4s. \D.,making a total of Rs. 0\d.
The experiments took place before the governor, Sir C. Adam,
and lady, Sir J. Liddle, M.D., Lieut. Rouse, general superintendent,
Lieut. Monk, Messrs. Lee and Seville, inspector of works, who ex-
pressed their admiration at the cleanliness and simplicity of the
apparatus.
In order to show the advantage of the system in all its branches,
a rump steak was broiled by M. Soyer, before the company present,
who partook of it, and who declared it was perfection, and free from
all odour.—Mechanics' Magazine.


92
COTTAGE ROASTING.
to two hours, eighteen inches from the fire: if stuffed, at least
two hours.
Chump, or loin and kidneys, of four pounds, will take one hour
and a quarter; baste well.
Six pounds of breast one hour, twelves inches from the fire.
Six pounds of the shoulder or neck the same.
Calf' s heart, stuffed and tied up in paper, three quarters of an
hour.
230. Mutton (leg of eight pounds), will take one hour and a
half, eighteen inches from the fire.
Saddle, ten pounds, one hour and a quarter to one hour and a
half, eighteen inches, measuring from the flat surface.
Shoulder, one hour and a half.
Loin, one hour and a half.
Breast, three quarters of an hour.
Nah, one hour.
231. Lamb, according to size, but in the same proportion less
than mutton, but ought always to be well done, and placed
nearer the fire; if a good fire about fifteen inches from it.
Pork should be well done.
Leg of six pounds, with skin over, two hours, eighteen inches
from the fire.
Loin of the same, one hour.
Nah, the same weight, one hour and three-quarters.
Pork rubbed with salt the night previous, and then scraped
before roasting, improves the flavour.
In roasting of beef, mutton, lamb, pork, and poultry, place a
dripping-pan under the meat, with a little clear dripping or fat,
which should be very hot when the meat is basted. A quarter
of an hour before serving add half a pint of water to the fat in
the dripping-pan; dredge the meat with flour and salt. When
the meat is dished up, pour the contents of the pan into a basin,
straining it through a gauze sieve kept on purpose; remove all
the fat, add a little colouring and salt to the gravy, and pour it
into the dish under the meat.
Veal and poultry should have half the quantity of water put
in the pan, and that, when strained, added to half a pint of
thick melted butter, adding two teaspoonfuls of any sau<» for
flavour, as Harvey's, Soyer's, or ketchup, Sua.
Sage and onions to be served with pork.


ON BAKING MEAT IN OVEN.
95
A SERIES OF RECEIPTS ON BAKED MEATS.
Jtils of Beef baked.—Take three long ribs of beef, bone,
Mason, stuff, and roll as for semi-roasting, No. 207; put either
Yorkshire pudding or any kind of vegetable in the bottom ofthe dish, then put on the grating, on which put your potatoes;
then fix on the trivet at about three inches above the grating;
when done, pour on a hot dish half a pint of boiling water,
quarter of a teaspoonful of salt; pour this under your joint, turn
it over; when hot, turn over twice, and carve; it will make a
rich gravy. Serve the potatoes round, or separate; the pudding
to be served on a hot dish.
By chopping the bone small, good broth and soup may be
made. If the oven happens to be too hot, cover the joint with
a piece or two of plain paper, well greased.
A piece of meat weighing about eight pounds, will take
from one hour and twenty to thirty minutes, giving always as a
rule fromten to twelve minutes to every pound of meat, for
joints of from six to twelve pounds.
Any other piece of beef of an inferior part, requires to be
baked slowly, allowing fifteen minutes to every pound, and if too
lean, may be larded, as No. 450.
2. For a Zieg of Pork.—Peel six apples, six onions, and
twelve potatoes; put the apples and onions at the bottom of the
dish, adding half a pint of coloured water, a teaspoonful of salt,
one of sugar, half one of pepper; lay the potatoes on the grating,
the meat over; give fifteen minutes to every pound of meat.
Half a pint of sage and onion sauce may be poured over the
apples and onions previous to baking. Any joint of pork may
be stuffed with sage and onions.
3. Fillet of Veal.—I have also tried the following:—Prepare
a fillet, which stuff; oil a sheet or two of clean paper; cut in
slices, four ounces of bacon, two onions, one carrot, one turnip, a
little celery, if handy, a little thyme and bay leaf; wrap up the
veal and the above in the paper, and bake for two hours; when
done, take out the veal and serve with vegetables round it. It
will be delicious; pray let me know your opinion.
Any part of veal may be done the same. Fried bacon may
be served with it.


96
ON BAKING MEAT IN OVEN.
Also half a pint of melted butter, one tablespoonful of ketchup,
two of Harvey's sauce, well mixed; pour round and serve.
4. To hake Mutton,—Proceed as for beef, time according to
size, putting under a Yorkshire pudding, or some rice boiled
with curry in it, or boiled French haricot beans, which I have
used for a change now and then. I also put a piece of pudding-
paste, half way up the knuckle of a leg of mutton, which pre-
vents it getting dry, that being so much thinner than the other
part.
Loin and shoulder the same; if a piece happens to be lean
and dry, butter it over, cover it with paste, and bake as usual.
The shoulder, baked, like the leg of pork, is good with apples,
potatoes, and onions.
5. Lamb,being very delicate, allow only ten minutes per
pound for the ribs, the same for the shoulder, twelve minutes
for the leg. Spinach, peas, asparagus, and sprouts, are best with
lamb.
All kinds of poultry may be done the same, though roast them
by all means, if you can; but if wrapped up in paper, as for
fillet of veal, No. 3. in this series, it will be excellent baked.
6. Vegetables with baked Meat.—My new plan of cooking
vegetables with baked meat is as follows:—Scrape, wash, and
cut in pieces two pounds of carrots, boil them in salt and water
till three parts done, drain them in cullender, then put them at
the bottom of your dish, season with half a teaspoonful of salt,
half that of pepper, add half a pint of coloured water, then
place the potatoes on the grating, the meat on the trevet, and
bake as above.*
Any such joints as sirloin, skirt, edgebone, or any other piece
of beef, weighing from eight to ten pounds, should have a tea-
spoonful of salt sprinkled over, rubbing on also a little fat or
* In the way of vegetables for beef, I have tried turnips, Jeru-
salem artichokes, parsnips, &c. Also for veal, lamb, and mutton,
spinach, greens, Cauliflowers, Brussels sprouts, all parboiled and well
drained. A pint of second class batter, added to either the parsnips,
artichokes, turnips, carrots, peas, asparagus, &Q., using only one pound
instead of two, but quite boiled, and omitting the gravy, either of
these will turn out like a pudding.


98
MEAT PUDDINGS,
234 Beef Pudding.—Take about one pound of steak, cut it
lengthways in three pieces, and then slantways at each inch,
instead of in lumps; but should you buy cuttings of meat from
the butchers, then remove all the sinew and over fat, and cut
the large pieces slantways, put them in a dish, and sprinkle
over with a teaspoonful of salt, a half ditto of pepper, and a tea-
spoonful of flour, the same of chopped onions; mix well
together, make six or eight ounces of paste as No. 319, roll it to
the thickness of a quarter of an inch, or a little more, put
pudding-cloth in a basin, sprinkle some flour over it, lay in your
paste, and then the meat, together with a few pieces of fat;
when full put in three wineglasses of water; turn the paste over
the meat, so as not to form a lump, but well closed; then tie the
cloth, not too close on the paste, or it will not be light; boil it
fast in four quarts of water for one hour; take it out, let it stand
a few minutes to cool the cloth, cut the string, turn back the
cloth, place a dish on the top, and turn it over on it, remove the
cloth, and serve.
235. —If you choose to add a kidney it may add to the
richness of the gravy, also a few oysters, or even a mushroom.
The crust should always be cut with a knife.
If you carefully follow the above instructions you will have a
pudding quite perfect, the paste as light and as white as snow,
and the meat tender, with a thick gravy.
236. —Observation. You will perhaps be surprised that I recommend
it to be boiled fast instead of simmering. I do so, because the meat,
being enclosed in the paste, and sometimes in a basin, is alone subject
to the action of simmering in its own gravy. These puddings lose a
less amount of nourishment in cooking than any other kind. In a
large pudding a few sliced potatoes is not bad. This may truly be
considered as much a national dish as roast beef and plum pudding,
and being so, it is surprising that it is so often made badly, and indi-
gestible: the pieces of meat and fet often cut two inches square,
instead of smaller pieces; the pudding, sometimes left half out of the
water, the crust becomes hard and black, and the meat very dry.
237. RoastBeef Pudding.—Any remains of cold roast beef
may be done as follows: mince about one pound of cooked meat
cut in dice, put on a dish, add one teaspoonful of salt, half that
of pepper, one of flour; fill your paste with it, add a gill of
water; cover over as usual, shake it well, tie it up in a cloth,


MEAT PUDDINGS.
99
and boil for half an hour, and serve. A little chopped onions or
parsley may be introduced.
238. Another Way.—Proceed as above, only add for every
pound of meat two ounces of either gherkins, pickled walnuts,
or mushrooms, chopped fine or sliced.
239. Mince Beef Pudding with Eggs.—Proceed as above;
omit the pickles, adding boiled ham or fried bacon instead, cut
in dice, also add two hard-boiled eggs cut in dice; mix all
together; boil as above, white sauce over, or melted butter.
240. Veal Pudding.—Cut two pounds of raw veal, four ounces
of ham, or lean bacon; season delicately with a teaspoonful of
salt, the half of pepper, a little flour and chopped parsley, a gill
of water; proceed as for the other puddings, boil two hours, and
serve.
241. Calves' Brainsand Tongue of any kind, previously
cooked.—Soak and wash a brain clean, boil it for a quarter of
an hour in a quart of water, in which has been added a tea-
spoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, and a little vinegar, if handy.
Let it get .cold, then mould the pudding; cut the brain in half-
inch slices, lay thin slices of tongue, previously cooked, on the
bottom, then of brain; season with salt, pepper, parsley, and a
little chopped onions; continue until full; then mix a teaspoonful
of flour with a gill and a half of milk, or water, and pour in;
close the pudding, and boil one hour and serve. Cut it with a
knife. Two hard-boiled eggs cut in slices, would improve it; also
a little gherkin, chopped fine, will vary the flavour.
242. Sheep's, Lamb's, and Pig's Brains, and Tongue Pud-
dings.—Proceed as for Calves', but will not take quite so long in
cooking.
243. Calves' Mead and Tongue.—The remains of any from a
previous dinner can be used for puddings with or without a little
brain: proceed as for brain pudding. A little curry powder
added will improve it.
This will produce a better effect on the table as a pudding,
than a common hash; for the great principle in cookery is to
please the eye, as well as the palate.
244. Lamb, Veal, or Pork Liver Pudding.—Cut one pound
968262*


100
MEAT PUDDINGS.
of liver in slices, also two ounces of bacon; season with a tea spoonful of salt, a half of pepper, one chopped onion, one of
parsley; mix it well with the bacon, dip each piece of liver in
some flour, and lay the liver and bacon in the pudding, with a
gill and a half of water; boil one hour. A teaspoonful of colour-
ing mixed with the water will give a rich appearance to all
pudding gravies.
245. The same, a plainer Way.—Cut one pound of liver and
two ounces of bacon into dice, a quarter of an inch square;
season with only salt, pepper, and onions, a spoonful of flour, and
a gill and a half of water; lay it in the pudding, and boil as
before. Stuffing No. 464 may be mixed with it.
246. Liver and Kidney Pudding.—Put in a frying-pan two
ounces of dripping, two ounces of bacon, in dice; put it on the
fire; when the liver and kidney are seasoned, place it in the pan,
and stir round until it is set; each piece should be firm; then
add a tablespoonful of flour, mixed with a gill and a half of
coloured water, No. 462a. When nearly boiling, place it in the
pudding, tie up, and boil three quarters of an hour. A few herbs
is a variation.
247. Mutton Pudding.—Champ of mutton is the best part
to make into pudding, which cut in slices as for beef pudding;
in case it is very fat, add potatoes, and proceed the same.
248. Sheep's Head, Tongue, and Trotters, previously cooked,
may be made into a very nice pudding, proceeding as usual.
A few pickled walnuts, sliced, may be added.
249. Lamb Pudding.—Take the breast, and remove the big
bones; cut it crossways, season lightly; have some veal stuffing
ready, and lay the meat and stuffing in alternate layers in the
pudding, with a gill and a half of water to every pound; boil one
hour and a half; serve with melted butter over the pudding, and
a little chopped parsley on the top; it has an inviting effect.
Any part of the lamb may be done the same way.
250. Pork Pudding.—Get about a pound of pork, as lean as
possible; any cuttings will do; cut them into slices; season with
a little chopped sage, a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper;
roll the pieces up, and put them in the pudding with a few slices


102
MEAT PUDDINGS.
in a pudding crust. Open them by the back, then draw them,
divide them into two, and then into quarters; extract the big
bones, leaving the flesh only; beat each piece flat, and season
with salt, pepper, and a little grated ginger; make a stuffing
with the liver, No. 457. Lay on the crust a slice of bacon, then
the birds, then a slice of steak; season with any aromatic herbs,
or chopped onions, leeks, or mushrooms; add a gill of ale, or
wine, gravy or water; boil one hour and a half, and serve.
Pigeons may be done in the same way.
256. Fish Pudding.—Take two pounds of cod fish, cut in
slices about the size of five-shilling pieces, half an inch thick;
fill the bowl with the paste, as usual, lay some of the fish on the
bottom, season with salt, pepper, a little chopped parsley, onions,
a little flour and pieces of the liver, if any, then the fish, and
so on until full; add a gill of milk or water, shake it well, tie up,
and boil one hour, and serve. A little bay leaf and thyme may
be added, if handy.
All fish may be done the same way, varying the flavour
according to taste.
257. Fish Pudding, aplainer Way.—Cut one pound of any
fish in small pieces, season with salt and pepper on a dish, a
little flavour; mix well, put in the paste with a gill of water, and
if you have a wine-glass full of any fish sauce, add it, cover
up, boil one hour, and serve.
258. Mackerel Pudding.—Cut off the heads of two mackerel,
cut each one in four pieces, keeping the roe in; fill the pudding
with the pieces, season with salt, pepper, a little chopped onions
and fennel, add a gill of water, boil one hour, and serve with
fennel sauce over.
259. Eel Pudding.—Cut in long pieces, season with salt,
pepper, chopped onions, parsley; add a gill of water; wine or
beer is very good, and proceed as for the others.
260. Baked Pudding*.—My excellent friend, you must be of
the same opinion as the rest of the world, namely, that variety
is charming in almost every movement of life, therefore you will
not object to my new proposal to send it to the baker's; when
the oven is at a moderate heat, they will be found excellent,
eating different to a pie. The cloth of course is not required.


MEAT PIE3.
103
only grease the basin; lay on the paste when the contents are in;
make the paste meet equally on the top, moisten with water, roll
out another piece about a quarter of an inch thick, put it over
when fit, and cut away the trimmings from the edge of the
basin, egg it over, bake in a slow oven, giving about the same
time as you would for boiling; when done, shake the basin
well, to make the gravy the same thickness throughout, and
serve, turning it out on a dish; perforate the top.
261. Puddings half steamed and boiled.—Put in a pan a
quart of water, when boiling, put your basin in with the pudding
in it, boil gently one hour or more, according to what your
pudding is made of; add boiling water occasionally, so as always
to keep the same quantity in the pot. By having previously
well buttered the basin, when done, by passing a knife between
the paste and the basin, you may turn or cut it out, and pour
over any appropriate sauce you like. They may also be steamed,
cjs now almost every kitchen possesses steam pans, in connexion
with the boiler of the range; or put some water in our new
baking-pan, put in the pudding, and send to the oven.
IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS ON THE ABOVE EECEIPT9.
"I must not forget to tell you, Eloise, that any of the above sort
of puddings, no matter what made of, if sweet or savoury, is prefer-
ably made in a basin to being put in a cloth, which is often very dirty
in appearance; while, if boiled in a basin, the paste receives all the
nutriment of the meat, which, if boiled in a cloth, would evaporate
in the water, if by neglect it ceases boiling. If you wish to turn it
well out, thoroughly grease the inside of your basin when making.
On Pudding Cloths.—A pudding cloth, however coarse,
ought never to be washed with soap; it should be dried as
quickly as possible, and kept dry and free from dust, and in a
drawer or cupboard free from smell.
MEAT PIES.
Previous to making any pie do not omit reading the very important
remarks I have made at the introduction of fruit pies, see Index.
262. BeefsteakPie. — Cut two pounds of steak into about
twenty thin pieces, lengthways, fat included, season them with
two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, and a little chopped
herbs, and place therd symmetrically on the dish, forming it high


104
MEAT PIES.
in the centre. Add half a pint of water, in which has been put
two tablespoonfuls of colouring. Cover over with paste (No. 317)
half an inch thick, and bake for one hour in a slow oven. Pud-
ding paste No. 319 may be used. For variety of pie-dishes see
appendix.
A little stuffing rolled up in the meat makes a change, and ist
fit for the best table.
A few spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce is likewise a change.
263. Family Steak Pie.—Take and eat two pounds of beef in slices, two pounds of potatoes, a quarter of a pound of onions;
season with three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper; mix it
well together; put the meat and potatoes into the pie-dish, in
alternate layers; add a pint of water; cover over, as above,
and bake for one hour and a half.
264. Veal Pie.—Delicate veal and ham pies can be made
like the above, rolling up the veal and a little ham, or bacon,
together, and a little stuffing, if handy. Proceed as for steak,
or as for family steak-pies.
Pork pies may be made in the same way.
265. RabbitPie. — Cut the rabbit up as for pudding
(No. 251); roll the pieces in flour, then put them in the pie-
dish, with some slices of ham or bacon; season with salt,
pepper, chopped onions, nutmeg, (grated, if handy), according
to size; add half-a-pint of water; cover, and bake. A tea-
spoonful of curry may be added, instead of pepper.
Por family rabbit pie proceed as for family steak pie.
266. Fish Pie.—Proceed in every way as for puddings, and
bake one hour. Oysters, muscles, perrywinkles, cockles, &C., may be used.
267. Mare Pie.—If it is a large hare it is best to jug it, as
No. 216, cut in half crossways. Save the back and legs for roasting, and with the front part, which cut in pieces, make
the pie. Put some steak at the bottom of the dish, with salf^
pepper, and chopped onions; dip each piece of hare in flour, lay
them on the steak, make some small balls of veal stuffing, which
place in various places; cover over with more steak; add half-
a-pint of water; finish with paste as usual. When baked, shake
the dish to mix the gravy. The addition of a glass of wine, a


VEGETABLES.
105
few herbs, and two teaspoonfuls of currant jelly, is a great
improvement.
268. The Artisan's Pie.—Any pieces of meat, but not too fat—four ounces of fat to every pound of meat is enough. Take
two pounds of meat cut in slices, season it with three teaspoon-
fuls of salt, one of pepper, four sliced onions; peel four pounds
of potatoes, cut in thick slices, which place on the bottom of
the dish, then a layer of potatoes, then the meat; season well;
add a pint of water, and bake for two hours.
Trimmings of meat of all kinds may be purchased in every
large town, especially in London, and are the proper pieces for
such economical pies; in buying them, take care there is none
tainted, as it will produce the effect as described in introduction
of puddings. Cover with crust, as No. 319.
269. Poor Man's Potatoe Pie.—Wash and peel six pounds
of potatoes, cut them in slices; take half-a-pound of the fat of
mutton or beef, or dripping, cut into small dice; Season the
whole with a teaspoonful of pepper and three of salt; cover
with paste, No. 317 and bake one hour and a half.
. A bloater, boned and cut up with the fat, makes a nice
change of flavour.
VEGETABLES. .
As I have before remarked, the food of man, in order to give
proper nourishment, should be often varied; in fact, his health
depends upon it, and nature seems to have given him those instru-
ments, the teeth, by which he is enabled to masticate both animal and
vegetable food, besides having provided him abundantly with vegetable
produce, which seems the balance, in point of health, between that
and rich animal food. It is to be regretted that the labouring poor
of this country do not partake of more vegetables than they do at
present. If we travel over the country, we are surprised to find
how small a portion of ground is engaged in horticulture; the con-
sequence is that, excepting near large towns, scarcely a vegetable is to be obtained, and the poor are doomed to live almost entirely o»
bread and cheese and B small portion of animal food, not even a
potatoe is to be had during the winter and spring of the year. It is
said by some, that the climate being colder than on the continent,
the blood requires more heating food, and that in the summi;r the
English are as much vegetable eaters as their neighbours; if such


VEGETABLES.
107
Mrs. Glasse says, Boil in as little water as possible, without
burning the saucepan.
Mrs. Acton gives only the Lancashire way; this is, peeled
and boiled slowly; when done, salt thrown over, and then the
pot shook violently for some time, so that they are broken. She
remarks that this method is not economical.
Having given these, it is only right I should give iry ideas.
As I have before said, they all, perhaps, require a different
system. If steamed, salt should be thrown into the water, and
trot on the potato, and when done, remove the steamer, and also
the cover.
270. Mots to choose Potatoes.—Observe, as a general rule,
that the smaller the eye, the better the potato, as when they
are too full in the eye, they are either of an inferior quality, or
are running to seed. To ascertain if they are sound, nip a
piece from the thickest end with your finger nail; if good, the
inside will either be of a white, yellow, or reddish hue, according
to the sort and quality; if, on the contrary, they are spotted,
they are bad, or getting so; but though this part may be
slightly touched, by cutting a little off the outside they may
prove fit for boiling; though they ought to be bought, when in
this state, at a cheap rate. Potatoes always get bad in the
spring of the year, as then the old ones are going out, and the
new ones for some time continue to possess but little flavour,
and are watery when boiled. The old ones ought to be peeled and steamed, and mashed, or baked in an oven, under a joint,
or fried in fat, as No. 298; for when done whole in their skins,
at this time of the year, the slightest spot spoils their flavour,
The new ones are tasteless and watery, and, as I described above
to you, are much better cooked when put in very hot water, but
not boiling, than when put in cold,
271. —If boiled, it may be that they require to be put into
boiling water, or, may be, in cold, and either boiled quick or slow,
but this you must find out. Choose all about the same size, with
a smooth skin, and when they are boiled and begin to cracky
throw off the water immediately, as it only damages the root
Stand near the fire, with a cloth on, and serve in skin. Salt
should be put into the water at the beginning. A watery
potato will require quick boiling, and sometimes to be put in
boiling water. If very watery, and they will not boil mealy,


108
VEGETABLES.
put them into the pot in their skins, fill up with water, and a
piece of lime the size of a nut, and they will turn out mealy. It
is unnecessary here to explain scientifically the cause of this.
272. New Potatoes—Should be cleaned, and the skin rubbed
off with a coarse cloth; add a little salt if the skin is dry. Put
them into very hot water, and boil from fifteen to twenty
minutes. Take them out of the water and let them drain
before sending to table, throwing some salt over them. If very
small they will not take above ten minutes.
273. BakedPotatoes, with the skin on, should be chosen a
large size (regents), placed in a slow oven and so that they do not
touch; or if in a Dutch or American oven, before the fire, they
should be turned often; they will take from one and a half to
two hours. If without their skins, they should be done in a
brown pan with fat, turning them occasionally.
274. Baked Potato with Sausage (called Soger's Potato).—
Take a large potato and cut out a round piece as big as a shil-
ling, through the potato; put in the scoop and remove some of
the inside, fill this with sausage-meat or veal stuffing, cover the
hole with a part of what you cut out, and bake with cut part
uppermost.
275. Mashed Potatoes.—After having boiled twelve middling
sized potatoes until 'mealy, peel them, if with the skins on, and
remove the eyes or specks; put them into a bowl, and take two
forks in one hand, with the points of the prongs turned out-
wards; break the potatoes up with them; when breaking, add
an ounce of butter and a gill of milk or a little more to them,
and half a teaspoonful of salt, to every pound, and a pinch of
pepper; they should be beat a great deal, until they become
quite light; they should never be hard like paste, as is often
the case when stirred with a spoon.
Potatoes, if large, might be peeled, and cut in four pieces,
put in boiling water with some salt, boiled rather fast, and well
drained when done; let the pan stand near the fire to dry your
potatoes—three minutes will do it—and mash them as above.
276. New Roasted Potato.—This should be a large potato
.—the kidney kind preferred—should be half boiled, the skin, remove, put into a baking dish, well rubbed with butter or fat


VEGETABLES. 1(J9
and dredged with a little flour, salt and pepper, and put into
the oven, or before the fire, either in an American or Dutch
oven, until done; they ought to be of a nice brown colour, and
are very relishing.
277. Jerusalem Artichoke should be well washed and peeled,
and put into a saucepan of warm water, with salt in it; boil till tender, then serve them up; if to be mashed, mash them at once,
with salt, pepper, and butter; if whole, keep them covered until
served. Melted butter over improves the look.
They may be mashed with a little gravy; put in a dish,
bread-crumbed over, and put in the oven, and are very nice.
Or they can be treated in every way like turnips.
278. Turnips.—Peel them, and boil in plenty of water, in
which has been put some salt; boil till tender, and serve either
whole, or mashed. If mashed, they should be put in a saucepan
over the fire, with a bit of butter, or some milk, salt, and a
little pepper, and a pinch of sugar, mashed up until rather dry
and serve.
A few capers mixed in the mashed turnip, is an improvement
for boiled mutton.
279. Swedes.—This was a vegetable in very little use for the
table until the year of the famine in Ireland, when M. Soyer
prepared it for the viceroy's table. It should be treated in every-
way like turnip, but cut into quarters for boiling. The middle
size are only fit to use.
Mo. Carrot.—This root varies quite as much as the potato;
some are quickly done, even in twenty minutes, and some require
two hours. They should be scraped, ai_d boiled in water and
salt; served cut in quarters lengthways.
281. Parsnip and the White Carrot. — The same as the
tarrot.
282. Redand White Beet.—These should be washed, but not scraped, and put into the pot with the skin on; when done,
which is known by pressing the thick part, to see if it is soft,
or by probing it with a skewer; remove the skin, cut it into
slices, put it in a pan, with either gravy, butter, or milk, and a
little vinegar, salt and pepper, boil it up, and serve. It is also
good when cold, for salads.


110
VEGETABLES.
FIRST AND GENERAL LESSON IN THE COOKING OF
ALL KINDS OF VEGETABLES.
283. Asparagus is a vegetable between the root and the plant,
and requires more cooking, like the latter. It should be well
scraped at the bottom part, tie them up in bundles of not more
than twelve heads, have ready a pot of water, say three quarts for
every hundred heads, in which you have placed one table-
spoonful of salt, and if the water is hard half a teaspoonful of
carbonate of soda; if they are a good size boil for twenty
minutes, and serve with a slice of toasted bread under, and
melted butter separate, or cream sauce No. 424.
This, when cold, is very good with oil and vinegar, salt and
pepper.
The small, called sprew, is very excellent broken small in
clear soup.
284. Celery.—Dress like asparagus, catting off the green,
leaving the branches six inches long; serve on toast, with melted
butter or brown gravy over, tying three or four sticks together.
Sea Kale.—Clean the root and boil like asparagus, and serve
the same on toast, with either melted butter or cream sauce over.
285. Green Cabbage and Savoys.—These close-leaf plants
require well washing and soaking in salt and water before
boiling; the stems should be removed, and then boiled in half a
gallon of water, with two teaspoonfuls of salt and a little soda.
These proportions will do for all vegetables. If the plants are
large they should be cut in four.
286. Sprouts, Spring Greens, Turnip Tops, Sfc.—These
only require washing before boiling, and boil till tender in the
same quantity of water as above.
287. Stewed Cabbage or Savoys.—Cut in thin slices, wash,
drain, and boil till tender; drain them free from water; put into
a clean pot two ounces of butter or fat, and a little salt and
pepper; when hot add the cabbage, and stir it well until nearly
dry, then throw over a tablespoonful of flour, keep stirring, and
then add a cupful of either broth, milk, or water, let boil ten
minutes, and serve.


VEGETABLES.
113
Haricots, plain boiled, should be first washed, then put into the
black iron pot one quart of them, with four quarts of cold water,
one ounce of butter or fat; boil them gently for three hours, or
till tender; the water will be nearly absorbed, if the haricots
are good; draw off the remainder; mix in a pint of it three
teaspoonsful of flour, half ditto of pepper, add it to the haricots;
boil for ten minutes, keep stirring, and serve, adding three
teaspoonfuls of salt; an ounce of butter is an improvement.
A little meat of any kind may be cooked with them, just the
same as dried peas, only these are to be eaten whole, and four
onions in slices, fried, may be added with the seasoning, when
the haricots or lentils are nearly cooked. The broth, if ample,
when strained from them, may be used as soup, with bread in it.
295. Lentils.—Wash them as haricots, and cook them as
such, putting them in cold water; they will not take so long,
but try when tender. Meat is exceedingly good boiled with
them, and they make good soup.
These make an excellent salad, both in winter and summer.
See Index.
The liquor of either makes a nutritious soup, by adding fried
onions, a little flour, pepper, and salt, and poured over bread
previously sliced and put in a soup basin.
I herewith send you the receipt I promised you on Nettles, which
I tried while in Norfolk.
296. Nettles.—Wash them well, drain, put them into plenty
of boiling water with a little salt, boil for twenty minutes, or a
little longer, drain them, put them on a board and chop them up, and either serve plain, or put them in the pan with a little
salt, pepper, and a bit of butter, or a little fat and gravy from a
roast; or add to a pound two teapoonsfuls of flour, a gill of
skim milk, a teaspoonful of sugar, and serve with or without
poached eggs.
This extraordinary spring production, of which few know the
value, is at once pleasing to the sight, easy of digestion, and at
a time of the year when greens are not to be obtained, invaluable
as a purifier of the blood; the only fault is, as I have told you
above, Eloise, they are to be had for nothing; it is a pity that
children are not employed to pick them, and sell them in market
towns.


114
VEGETABLES.
Another unused vegetable is mangel wurzel. The young leal
of the mangel wurzel, cleaned and cooked as above, is extremely
good.
In all my various visits to cottages during this spring, I
have found but one where either of the above vegetables were in
use, and that belonging to a gardener, who knew their value.
These nettles are good during five months of the year; for
even when large, the tops are tender. They make excellent tea,
which is very refreshing and wholesome." 296a.—Sweet Docks, also a wild vegetable, or weed, are very
good when done as follows, using about two-thirds of sweet dock,
and one-third of nettles, boiled with a little carbonate of soda.
When done, strain them, and to about one pint basin full, add one
onion sliced and fried, a sprig of parsley, a little butter, pepper,
and salt; put into a stewpan on the fire, stir, and gradually add
a handful of oatmeal; when you think the meal has been suffi-
ciently boiled, dish up and serve as a vegetable.
297. Large Dry Green- Peas.—One quart of peas, soak for
twelve hours; put into a pan with one gallon of water, some
fat, six sliced onions, one teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, one of
pepper; simmer for two or three hours, or till tender, drain
the peas, then add to them half a pound of flour, mixed in a pint
of cold water, three teaspoonfuls of salt, a quarter of a pound of
butter; boil twenty minutes; serve with bacon over.
Small dumplings may be boiled in it; they will take half an
hour.
298. Fried Potatoes.—Peel a pound of potatoes, cut them
into very thin slices, almost shavings; put some fat into a
frying-pan; when very hot, but not burning, throw the slices in,
not too many at a time, as they will stick together; move them
about with a skimmer, to prevent it. When a nice brown colour,
take them out, and sprinkle some salt over; serve them up
separate, or over broiled meat. Two inches of fat ought to be
in the pan.
299. Fried Cooked Potatoes.—Let the fat in your frying-
pan be about two inches deep; when smoking hot, add in five <}r six potatoes, cut crossways in thin slices, letting them bf
* The best way to pick nettles is to quickly grasp a handful, tj
doing which you feel no sensation of pain, or by wearing gloves.


EGGS.
115
previously dried in a cloth; stir with a spoon; it will take about ten minutes to do them crisp; take them out, drain and dish
them, sprinkling a little salt over.
EGGS.
These, from the earliest records we have, have always been a
favourite food, with the exception of a short time in Greece, where
a few philosophers endeavoured to make the people refrain from
eating them, as they stated that they contained the four elements of
the world.*
They are a nutritious food, wholesome in every way, except when
boiled too hard; although there are some stomachs which reject
them. They can be employed in almost every dish with advantage,
and one weighing two ounces contains nearly the same amount of
nourishment as an ounce of meat and an ounce of bread ; therefore
when eggs are eighteen for a shilling, equal to two pounds four ounces, they are not a very dear article of food.
300. To ascertain that they are good and fresh, candle them, as it is
called; that is, hold them upright between the thumb and finger of
the right hand before a candle, and with the left hand shade the eye,
by which means you will be enabled to detect any spots that may be
in them; if a few white spots only, they will do for puddings, &C.; if
a black one, throw it away, as it is perfectly bad. If light and
transparent, they are fresh.
301. Hggs Plain Soiled.—This is the most simple of all things
to cook, and yet is the least attended to; and I am never surprised,
* Singular Ideas of the Ancients in relation to Eggs.—Orpheus,
Pythagoras, and their spectators —good and humane people as ever
lived—unceasingly recommended in their discourses to abstain from
eggs, in order not to destroy a germ which nature had destined for
the production of chicken. Many allowed themselves to be persuaded,
and would have believed it an unpardonable crime if they had eaten
a tiny omelette, or boiled eggs. Many of the most learned philoso-
phers held eggs in a kind of respect approaching to veneration,
because they saw in them the emblem of the world and the four
elements. The shell, they said, represented the earth; the white,
water; the yolk, fire; and air was found under the shell.
The shepherds of Egypt had a singular manner of cooking eggs
without the aid of fire: they placed them in a sling, which they
turned so rapidly that the friction of the air heated them to the
exact point required for use.—Soger's Paniropheon.


EGGS.
when I am travelling, to find the eggs either too much or too little
done. They will not take the trouble to distinguish a large one from
R small one. Whilst some weigh only an ounce and a half, others
weigh two and a half; but as that is a whim of nature, and the
servants are so fond of attending to other frolics, they will not see
the difference in this; but as all cookery books say three minutes,
and the mistress has told them the same, they are right, and she is
wrong. From two and a half to four minutes, according to size, is
the time they will take. Ten minutes is sufficient to set an egg
hard, not thirty, or more, as some persons do by neglect.
You know, my dear Eloise, how fidgety I am about such trifles.
I have, therefore, invented a cooking clock, with very distinctly
marked time; the hand is pushed back to any time named, and at
the time required the bell strikes. I mean to adopt it for general
kitchen use for all dishes, from an egg to a heavy joint. See Ap-
pendix.
302. To Boil Eggs.—Put a pint of water into a small pan;
when boiling, put two eggs in, and boil according to size—as I
have before said, from two and a half to four minutes. Fresh-
bid eggs will not take so long, and if only just set, are excellent
for clearing the voice.
303. —To boil them for toast, they require six minutes; take
them out, throw them in cold water, remove the shell, and cuj
them into slices; put them on the buttered toast, a little pepper
and salt, and serve. These are excellent with a little ketchup
put on the eggs, then bread-crumbed, salamandered over, and
serve.
304. Baked Eggs.—Put half an ounce of butter into a small
tin pan; break four eggs in it, keeping the yolks whole, throw
a little pepper and bits of butter and salt over; put in the oven,
or before the fire, till set, and serve. They will take about six
minutes doing.
305. Poached Eggs.—Put in a small pan half a pint of
water, half a teaspoonful of salt, three of vinegar; when boiling,
break carefully in the pan two nice eggs, simmer for four minutes, or till firm, but not hard; serve either on toast or fried
bacon, or ham, or spinach, and on any minced and seasoned
vegetable.
306. Mixed Eggs.—Break four eggs into a frying-pan, in
which you have put two ounces of butter, a little salt and pepper;


VARIOUS OMELETTES.
117
set it on the fire, stir round with a wooden spoon very quickly,
to prevent sticking to the pan; when all set, serve either on
toast or dish. Fried bacon cut in dice, a little chopped onions,
or mushrooms, or a little sprew grass, well boiled, may be added
to the above.
307. Eggs and Bacon.—Cut some bacon very thin, put into
a frying-pan half an ounce of butter, or fat, lay the bacon in it;
when fried on one side, turn over, and .break one egg on each
piece; when the eggs are set, put the slice under the bacon, and
remove them gently into a dish. Ham may be done the same.
308. Eggs, Convent Fashion. — Boil four eggs for ten
minutes, put them in cold water, peel and slice thin one onion,
put into a frying-pan one ounce of butter; when melted, add the
onion, and fry white, then add a teaspoonful of flour, mix it well,
add about half a pint of milk, till forming a nice white sauce,
half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper; when
nicely done, add the eggs, cut into six pieces each, crossways;
toss them up; when hot through, serve on toast.
309. Eggs and Sausages.—Boil four sausages for five
minutes, when half cold cut them in half lengthways, put a little
butter or fat in frying-pan, and put the sausages in and fry
gently, break four eggs into pan, cook gently, and serve. Raw sausages will do as well, only keep them whole, and cook slowly.
Omelettes or Fraise.
Where is the man or woman cook but says they know how ta
make an omelette, and that to perfection? But this is rarely
the case. It is related of Sarah, the Duchess of Marlborough, that
no one could cook a fraise, as it was then called, for the great duke
but herself.
The great point is, if in an iron pan, it should be very clean and
free from damp, which sometimes comes out of the iron when placed
on the fire. The best plan is to put it on the fire, with a little fat,
and let it get quite hot, or until the fat burns; remove it, and wipe
it clean with a dry cloth, and then you will be able to make the
omelette to perfection.
310. Omelettes.—Break four eggs into a basin, add half a tea spoonful of salt and a quarter ditto of pepper, beat them up well
with a fork, put into the frying-pan one ounce and a half of
better, lard, or oil, which put on the fire until hot; then pour in


US
VARIOUS OMELETTES.
the eggs, which keep on mixing quick with a spoon until all is
delicately set; then let them slip to the edge of the pan, laying
hold by the handle, and raising it slantways, which will give an
elongated form to the omelette; turn in the edges, let it set a
moment, and turn it over on to a dish, and serve.
It ought to be a nice yellow colour, done to a nicety, and
as light and delicate as possible. , It may be served in many
ways, but some of the.following are the most common:—two
tablespoonfuls of milk and an ounce of the crumb of bread cut
in thin slices, may be added.
311. Omelettes with Herbs.—Proceed as above, adding a
teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and half ditto of chopped onions or
chives, or a little eschalot; salt and pepper, and semi-fry as above.
312. Bacon Omelette.—Cut one ounce of bacon into small
lice, fry in a little fat; when done, add the eggs, and proceed as
above.
Ham, if raw, do the same as bacon; if cooked, cut in dice, put
in the eggs, and proceed as before.
313. Omelettes.—Oysters, mussels, periwinkles, or shrimps.
When the omelette is nearly done, add a few tablespoonfuls of
either of these sauces in the centre; turn the omelette, and serve.
For the above, see Fish Sauces.
Any cooked vegetables, as peas, screw, &C. &C., may be used
in omelettes.
314. Sweet Omelettes.—Beat four eggs into a basin, add a
tablespoonful of milk, a teaspoonful of sugar, a pinch of salt, and
beat them well up; put some nice butter into pan, put in the
eggs, and fry as before described. Serve with sugar sifted over.
314a. Preserve Omelettes.—When the omelette is nearlydone,
put in the middle, some preserve of any kind, turn it over on
plate, and serve with sugar over.
315. Omelettes with Spirit.—These are the above omelettes;
serve with spirit round them, and set on fire when going to
table. Rum is generally preferred.


PASTRY.
119
ON PASTRY.
Oke of the oldest and most current modes of cooking, either by mixing
oil or butter with the flour, sweetened, scented, or flavoured, according
to the fancy of the cook, is pastry. The Romans had their peculiat
cakes of paste, the Egyptians had theirs; in fact, all countries have,
during the periods of the greatest prosperity, endeavoured to add to
the number of their luxuries new modes of making paste. With
none of these have we, at the present moment, anything to do; our
task is to show how paste can be made to suit everybody.
My excellent Eloise, I think you are wrong, for once, in proposing
that I should give various receipts for sweet pastry. I know you
possess a sweet tooth, but let those who require first-class sweet
dishes, purchase our " Modern Housewife;" no doubt their pocket is
equal to their taste; at any rate, the few I now give will, if properly
made by a person of taste, lead them to do others that might vie with
the most expensive dishes.
The following receipts will be continually referred to, therefore
they ought to be made with care.
315a. Puff Paste.—Put one pound of flour upon your pastry-
Blab, make a hole in the centre, in which put a teaspoonful of
salt, mix it with cold water into a sottish flexible paste with the
right hand, dry it off a little with flour until you have well
cleared the paste from the slab, but do not work it more than
you can possibly help; let remain two minutes upon the slab,
then have a pound of fresh butter, from which you have squeezed
all the buttermilk in a cloth, bringing it to the same consistency
as the paste, upon which place it; press it out flat with the
hand, then fold over the edges of the paste so as to hide the
butter, and roll it with the rolling-pin to the thickness of
half an inch, thus making it about two feet in length; fold over
one third, over which again pass the rolling-pin; then fold over
the other third, thus forming a square, place it with the ends
top and bottom before you, shaking a little flour both under and
over, and repeat the rolls and turns twice again as before; flour
a baking-sheet, upon which lay it, upon ice, if handy, or in some
cool place, for half an hour; then roll twice more, turning it as
before, place again upon the ice a quarter of an hour, give it
two more rolls, making seven in all, and it is ready for use,
as directed in the following receipts. You must continually
add enough flour while rolling to prevent your paste sticking to
the slab, .


PASTRY.
When I state that upwards of a hundred different kinds of
cakes may be made from this paste and the following, I
am sure it will be quite sufficient to urge uyon every cook the
necessity of paying every attention to their fabrication, as it will
well repay for the study and trouble. One fourth of this quantity
may be made.
316. Half-puff Paste.—Put on the dresser or table one
pound of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, two ounces of butter,
mix all together, then add half a pint of water, or little more}
form a softish paste, do not work it too much with the hand, or it
will make it hard and tough; throw some more flour lightly over
and under, roll it out with a rolling-pin half an inch thick, about
a foot long; then have half a pound of fresh butter equally as
stiff as the paste, break it into small pieces, and put it on the paste; throw a little more flour on it, and fold it over in two
folds, throw some more flour on the slab, roll it out three or
four times, letting it rest between each two rolls, and it is then
ready for use.
It can be made with lard instead of butter.
The yolk of an egg, or the juice of half a lemon, added to the
water, makes it lighter.
316a. Half batter and half lard may be used, or if batter is too
dear, use all lard; if neither, mix well with the flour two
ounces of dripping, no salt, lay it on the board, and mix half a
pint of water, till a softish paste; roll it out, then chop a quarter
of a pound of good beef suet very fine, mix with a quarter of a
pound of good dripping, free from water or gravy, roll out the
paste, and add the dripping and suet as preceding receipt.
317. Plainer Paste, for Meat Pies.—Put into a pan half a
pound of flour, quarter of a pound of dripping, half a teaspoonful
of salt, rub all well together for about three minutes, add by
degrees half a pint of water, mix the paste well; it requires to bo
rather hard; throw some flour on the board, roll, and use it
instead of puff paste; three, or even two ounces, of dripping will
be enough where economy is required, or many children to feed.
Where the cottager has a small garden, in which he can
grow a few herbs, which I have already recommended, then
introduce in the paste a little chopped parsley or eschalot, a very
small piece of winter savory or thyme, or bayleaf chopped fine •
these herbs cost little, and are at once relishing, refreshing, anj
wholesome.


PASTET.
121
By the same rule, the same paste will do for fruit pies, mixed
with a little grated lemon or orange-peel, with the addition of a
teaspoonful of sugar.
318. Short Paste.—Put on a slab or board a pound of flour,
two ounces of pounded sugar, or whitey-brown, six ounces of
butter, one egg, half a teaspoonful of salt, half a pint of water,
mix sugar and butter well together, add it with the water by
degrees to the flour, and form a nice paste, but firmer than puff- paste; use where described.
In a farm-house, for a treat, they use cream to make this
paste.
319. PaddingPaste. — 1st Class Paste. Put on a slab,
table, board, or basin, one pound of flour, half a pound of
beef or mutton suet, chopped rather fine—the first is prefer-
able—form a well with your hand in the centre of the flour, add
the suet, a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper; moisten all with water, working the flour in by degrees, till it forms a stiff paste;
work it well for two minutes, throw a little flour on the slab,
with the paste on it; let it remain five minutes, then roll it out
to any thickness you like. This will be referred to very often,
therefore pay particular attention to it, and give it an important
place in the book. For savoury pudding, I sometimes vary the
flavour, by adding a little chopped parsley, or a little onion, or
thyme, or mushrooms in it.
2nd Class Paste. Proceed the same way, putting only six ounces of suet.
3rd Class Paste. The same, with four ounces.
4th Class Paste. The same, with four ounces of dripping.
Lamb, veal, and pork fat, may be used; but as they do not chop
so floury, the paste is heavier. But they can be used for baked
puddings, which I have introduced at page 102 in that series.
320. Fruit Tart, French fashion.—This requires a mould
or a tin pan; it must be well wiped with a cloth, butter it, then
take the remains of half puff paste, and roll it well so as to deaden
it, then roll it out a size larger than your mould, and about a
quarter of an inch thick; place your mould on a baking-tin, put
the paste carefully in the mould and shape it well, to obtain all
the form of the mould, without making a hole in the paste; put a
piece of paper at the bottom, fill with fruit to the top, and bake


122
PASTRY.
a nice colour; It will take about half an hour baking with any
fruit in season; put plenty of sugar over, according to the acidity of the fruit.
321. Another.—If you have no mould, make a quarter of a
pound of paste (No. 318), roll it round or oval to your fancy, a
quarter of an inch thick, wet the edge all round about half an
inch, raise that part, and pinch it with your thumb and fingers,
making a border all round, put on a baking-sheet, fill it with
one row of fruit if large, two rows if small; remove the stones,
and sift sugar over according to the acidity of the fruit; it will
take less time, too, than if in a mould: You see what variation
can be made with very little trouble or expense.
322. Small Pastry.—Make a quarter of a pound of half puff
paste (No. 318), roll it to a thickness of a quarter of an inch,
cut five or six pieces out with the rim of a tumbler; put each
piece in a separate tin, shape it well in forming a nice thin rim
round the edge with your finger and thumb, three parts fill with
either jam, stewed fruit, sweetmeats, custard, pastry, or cream,
bake in a very hot oven for twenty minutes; dish up in pyra-
mids, and serve. See Index.
323. Little Fruit Pissolettes.—I also make with the trim-
mings of puff paste the following little cakes: if you have about
a quarter of a pound of puff paste left, roll it out very thin,
about the thickness of half a crown, put half a spoonful of any
marmalade on it, about one inch and a half distance from each
other, wet lightly round them with a paste-brush, and place a
similar piece of paste over all, take a cutter of the size of a crown
piece, and press round the part where the marmalade or jam is
with the thick part of the cutter, to make the paste stick, then
cut them out with one a size or two larger, lay them on a
baking-tin, egg over, place in a nice hot oven for twenty
minutes, then sugar over with finely sifted sugar, so as to make
it quite white, then put back into the oven to glaze, and serve.
323a. Plain Puff Paste Cake.—Make half a pound as No.
315a; when done, roll it about a quarter of an inch thick, cut
as many pieces as you can with the cutter, or with the edge of
a glass, wet a baking sheet, place them on, egg well over, sift
some sugar on each, bake from ten to twelve minutes, and
serve.


PASTRY.
123
324. Orange and Almond Cakes.—Proceed as above, but lay
orange marmalade all over a quarter of an inch thick, four ounces
of almonds, cut into fillets, mixed with two ounces of sugar, and
the white of two egg added to it; lay the almonds all over the
marmalade, bake in a moderate oven, and cut in a diamond
shape, dish up on a napkin in crown or pyramid; they ought
to be of a nice transparent colour. Apple or quince marmalade
may be used instead of orange.
325. Preserve Cake.—This style of cake is exceedingly
simple, and admits of great variation. You must make half a
pound of puff paste (No. 315a), take one third of it and
roll it out several times so as to deaden it, then mould it
round with your hands to the shape of a ball, roll it out flat
to the thickness of a crown, lay it on a baking-sheet, put
on it marmalade, or any other preserve, a quarter of an
inch thick, reserving about one inch all round of paste to
fix the cover on, then roll out the remainder of the paste
to the same shape, it will of course be thicker; wet the edges
of the bottom, and lay the cover on it; press it so that it
sticks, cut neatly round the edges, and make a mark with the
back of a knife about a quarter of an inch deep and half an inch
apart all round; egg over, and lightly mark any fanciful design
with the point of a knife on the cover; bake in a very hot oven
for twenty minutes; when nearly done, sprinkle some sugar
over, frost it with a hot shovel, and serve cold.
326. Small Cream Cake—The former one must be made in
proportion to the dish you intend to serve on, but the following
is simple, and looks as well: Prepare the paste as before, but
roll the bottom piece about a foot square, put it on a baking-
sheet, cover with half an inch of cream (see Index), leaving one
inch round the edge; roll the cover the same size, wet the edges,
place it over, trim them, mark it down every three inches, and
then crosswise every inch; bake in hot oven, sugar over, and
salamander. When nearly cold, cut it where you have marked it;
thus, a piece twelve inches square will give you twenty-four pieces;
dish as a crown or pyramid. Twelve pieces make a nice dish for a
party. They may be made of any puff paste which is left, but
will not be so light as if made on purpose; can be cut to any
fanciful shape you please. Any j am may be substituted for cream.


124
PASTRY. 327. Fruit Crusts.—Cut a French penny roll lengthwise in
four slices, put the yolk of one egg with four spoonfuls of milk,
mix it in a plate, dip quickly each piece in it, and saute" in 3
quarter of a pound of butter which you have previously melted
in a frying pan; leave them on the fire until they have obtained
a nice gold colour on both sides; put three spoonfuls of orange
marmalade in a stewpan, with two glasses of sherry or brandy
and place on the fire; when on the point of boiling, pour over
the bread, which you have previously put in a plate, and serve
yery hot. Any preserve may be used, also any white wine; and
should you have no French rolls, any fancy roll will do, or even
the crumb of common bread. Any kinds of jam may be used.
Nursery Dumplings.
Having, the other evening, been invited to a children's party at
Farmer Laurence's, near Oswestry, and the supper being composed, for
the most part, of dumplings of various sorts, so as to please the chil-
dren, I made the following experiment, which proved quite suc-
cessful.
328. —Greengages being very plentiful, I went and gathered
some, and made the following fruit dumplings. I made half a
pound of paste (No. 319), rolled it out rather thin, then cut a
piece round with the rim of a tumbler, moistened it, and placed
a gage in the centre, adding a half teaspoonful of sugar, inclosed
all in the paste, thoroughly closing the rim, then placed on
the baking-sheet, the smooth part uppermost, and baked them
from ten to twelve minutes, serving them up with sugar. They
made a beautiful dish.
Gooseberries, rhubarb; cherries, and mulberries, can all be
done this way. All kinds of plums can be done the same.
329. Plain Cheese Cake.—Put half a pint of milk curds,
well drained, in a basin, add to it an ounce and a half of butter,
stir perfectly smooth, put in three teaspoonfuls of sugar, one
ounce of washed currants, one egg, half a pint of milk, and any
flavour you like, as lemon, orange, &c. &c. Prepare your paste as
No. 322, fill up the tins with this, bake the same, and serve.


126
PIES.
butter; add two eggs, a gill of cream, and a little milk; if too
stiff, then add a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, two of sugar;
work all well, to form a good stiff paste, throw some flour on the
table, mould the paste round, roll it three quarters of an inch
thick, and quite round, egg over, score it with a knife in
diamonds, or any other shape; bake for about half an hour in
a rather hot oven, sprinkle sugar over and serve. A pound of
either puff, No. 315a, or half puff paste, No. 316, will make a
very light galette; sugar over, and bake as above.
331. Cottage Galette.—Put one pound of flour, a teaspoon-
ful of salt, six ounces of butter; moisten with milk, and bake
as above, adding a teaspoonful of sugar.
332. Poor. Man's Galette.—One pound of flour, a quarter of
a pound of lard, moisten with milk, or water; proceed as above,
moisten with a little water on the top, and dredge sugar over.
If no lard, use dripping.
INTRODUCTION TO WES, BOTH SWEET AND SAVOUBY.
No matter how ridiculous it may appear to Mrs. Smith, or Mrs.
Brown, or Mrs. Any-body-else, do not omit to give room to the fol-
lowing remarks on pies. Never mind how simple these remarks
may seem to you, the million will understand them well. For
example, where is the little boy or girl in Great Britain who has not
eaten pies sweet and savoury p From childhood we eat pies—from
girlhood to boyhood we eat pies—from middle age to old age we eat
pies—in fact, pies in England may be considered as one of our best
companions da voyage through life. It is we who leave them behind,
not they who leave us; for our children and grandchildren will be as
fond of pie as we have been; therefore it is needful that we should
learn how to make them, and make them well! Believe me, I am
not jesting, but if all the spoilt pies made in London on one single
Sunday were to be exhibited in a row beside a railway line, it would
take above an hour by special train to pass in review these culinary
victims; therefore see the importance of the subject. If we could
only rescue to proper standing half a mile of pies and pie-crust, I
think we should deserve a piece of plate, or at least a piece of one of
our disciple's pies.
How to Make a Pie to Perfection.—When your paste u
carefully made (No. 316), or short paste (No. 318), which requires


PIES.
127
to more time than doing badly, and your pies and tarts properly
tall—(this is the last and most important process in pie and tart
Halting)—throw a little flour on your paste-board, take about a
quarter of a pound of your paste, which roll with your hand, say an
inch in circumference; moisten the rim of your pie-dish, and fix
the paste equally on it with your thumb. When you have rolled
your paste for the covering of an equal thickness, in proportion
to the contents of your pie (half an inch is about correct for the
above description), fold the cover in two, lay on the half of your
pie, turn the other half over, press slightly with your thumb
round the rim, cut neatly the rim of your paste, form rather a
thick edge, which mark with a knife about every quarter of an inch
apart; mark, holding your knife in a slanting direction, which
gives it a neat appearance; make two small holes on the top;
egg over with a paste-brush; if no egg, use a drop of milk or
water; the remaining paste may be shaped to fanciful designs
to ornament the top. For meat pies, notice, that if your
paste is either too thick or too thin, the covering too narrow or
too short, and requires pulling one way or the other, to make it
fit, your pie is sure to be imperfect, the covering no longer
protecting the contents. It is the same with meat; and if the
paste happens to be rather rich, it pulls the rim of the pie to the
dish, soddens the paste, makes it heavy, and, therefore, indi-
gestible as well as unpalateable. A little practice and common
sense will remedy all those little housewifery tribulations, and
probably improve the appearance of this series of dishes.
333. Plain Apple and other Tart.—Peel and cut about two
pounds of apples, sharp ones being the best for the purpose, cut
each in four pieces, removing the cores, then cut each quarter in
two or three pieces, according to size; put half of them in a pie-
dish, slightly press them, so that they lay compact; put over
two ounces of brown sugar, then put in the remaining apples,
then add another two ounces of sugar, making the apples form a
kind of dome, the centre being two inches higher than tho
sides; add a small wineglassful of water, cover the top over with
paste No. 318; bake in a moderate oven from half to three-
quarters of an 1 our.
All kinds of apples will, of course, make tarts, but if the
apples be sweetish or too ripe, you need not put in so much
sugar, but add double the quantity of water; in this case the


128
SWEET PUDDINGS.
addition of a little juice of a lemon is an improvement to vary
the flavour; use also a little grated or chopped lemon or orange-
peel, or a quarter of a teaspoonful of cinnamon, or mixed spice,
or four cloves,
Green rhubarb and greengages will require a little more
sugar, adding nothing else but the fruit; proceed as for apple-
tart; pink rhubarb does not require pealing; ripe currants,
raspberries, and cherries, also as above; plum, damson, and
mulberries the same.
SWEET PUDDINGS.
334. Plum Pudding.—Pick and stone half a pound of
Malaga raisins, wash and dry the same quantity of currants,
chop, not too fine, three-quarters of a pound of beef suet, put it
in a convenient basin, with six ounces of sugar, two ounces of
mixed candied peel sliced, three ounces of flour, three ditto of
bread-crumbs, a little grated nutmeg, four eggs, a gill of water,
or perhaps a little more, to form a nice consistence; butter a
mould, put a piece of white paper over the top and round the
sides, tie it in a cloth, boil for four hours in plenty of water;
when done, remove the cloth, turn it out of the mould, take the
paper off the sides and top, and serve with sweet sauce round; $
may also be boiled in a cloth,
The above is only for Christmas. Now for every day.
Put into a basin one pound of flour, one of chopped suet, half
a pound of mixed fruit, a little spice, grated lemon-peel, three
ounces of sugar, two eggs, half a pint of milk, or enough to
make it a proper thickness, tie it in a cloth, boil four hours,
turn it out, and serve with melted butter, or sweet sauce; bread-
crumbs instead of flour is good, or half of each.
335. A Series of Economical Puddings, which can be made
either in a mould, basin, tart-dish, or tin cake-pan.—Well
butter either, fill lightly with any of the following ingredients:
—Either stale buns, muffins, crumpets, pastry, white or brown
bread, sliced and buttered, the remains of sponge-cakes, ma-
caroons, ratafias, almond cake, gingerbread, biscuit of any
kind, previously soaked. For a change with any of the above,
you may intermix with either fresh or dried fruit, or preserves,
even plums, grated cocoa nut, &c. When your mould is full of


SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS.
129
either of the above, put in a basin a quarter teaspoonful of either
ginger, a little mixed spice, or cinnamon, if handy, grated
orange, lemon, or a few drops of any essence you choose; put in
three eggs, which beat well, add three gills of milk for every
quarter mould. When the above is well mixed, fill up nearly
to the rim. It can be either baked or. boiled, or put into
a saucepan one-third full of water, with the lid over, and let
simmer for about one hour. Pass a knife round the inside of
the basin or mould, turn out your pudding, pour over either
melted butter with a little sugar, the juice of a lemon or spirit
sauce. It ought to be the pride of each cottager's wife to find
out a peculiar and cheap mixture, which would entirely depend
on the part of the country in which she lives, that would be
liked by the family, and give it as a treat every Sunday.
335a. Fruit Puddings.—Such as green gooseberry is best made
in a basin, the basin to be buttered and lined with the paste, roll-
ing it round to the thickness of half an inch; then get a pint of
gooseberries and three ounces of sugar; after having made your
paste, take half the fruit, and lay it at the bottom of your basin,
then add half your sugar, then put the remainder of the
gooseberries in and the remainder of the sugar; on that draw
your paste to the centre, join the edges well together, put the
cloth over the whole, tying it at the bottom, and boil in plenty
of water. Fruit puddings, such as apples and rhubarb, should
be done in this manner; boil for an hour, take out of the sauce-
pan, untie the cloth, turn out on a dish, or let it remain in the
basin, and serve with sugar over. A thin cover of the paste
may be rolled round and put over the pudding.
Ripe cherries, currants, raspberries, greengage, plums, and such
like fruit, will not require so much sugar, or so long boiling,
336. CardMilk Pudding.—Put in a basin three eggs, a
little grated lemon-peel, three ounces of currants, one pint of
curds, and one pound of bread-crumbs; boil in a cloth half an
hour; turn out and serve.
Mr. Cocoa Nut Pudding.—Grate half a nut, add another egg
to the milk, mix with the above. An ounce of flour may be added.
338. Plain RicePudding.—Wash a quarter of a pound of
rice, put into a stewpan with a pint and a half of milk, three
ounces of butter, three ounces of sugar, lemon-peel, simmer till


130
SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS.
the rice is tender, add two eggs, previously well beaten, mix
juick, put in pie-dish; bake half an hour, or till set.
339. Spotted Dick.—Put three-quarters of a pound of flour
into a basin, half a pound of beef suet, half ditto of currants,
two ounces of sugar, a little cinnamon, mix with two eggs and
two gills of milk; boil in either mould or cloth for one hour
and a half; serve with melted butter, and a little sugar over.
340. Light Dough Dumplings.'—Get one pound of dough,
make it into small balls the size of eggs, boil in plenty of
water, and use it for roast or boiled meats, or serve with butter
and sugar, or with gravy.
Two ounces of chopped suet added to the above, or to vary
the flavour, add a few currants, a little sugar, grated nutmeg, or
lemon-peel.
341. Apple and Paste Pudding in Basin.—Make one ;jound
of paste, No. 319, roll it a quarter of an inch thick, lay some in a
bowl, fill it with apples cut in quarters, add two cloves, two ounces
of sugar, a little butter, put another piece of paste on the top,
and join the edge nicely; tie it in a cloth and boil. It can be
served up either in the basin or turned out. Do not open the top
to put more sugar in, as it spoils the flavour and makes it heavy.
All fruit puddings may be done the same way.
342. Suet Pudding.—Put into a basin half a pound of
chopped suet, a pound of flour, two eggs, a teaspoonful of salt,
quarter of pepper, nearly half a pint of water; beat all well to-
gether, put into a cloth as above; boil one hour and a half.
343. Bread Pudding.—An economical one, when eggs are
dear. Cut some bread and butter very thin, place it in a
pie-dish as lightly as possible, till three-parts full; break into a
basin one egg, add two teaspoonfuls of flour, three of brown sugar;
mix all well together, add to it by degrees a pint of milk, a
little salt; pour over the bread; bake in an oven; it will take
about half an hour: this will make a nice size pudding for four
or five persons.
This may be done in twenty different ways, by varying the
favour of the ingredients, as lemon-peel, orange-peel, nutmeg,
cinnamon, or mixed spice, or essences of any kind.
For children, skim-milk, or half milk and water, dates, or


SWEET AND FRTTIT PUDDINGS.
131
French plums, or figs, previously soaked and cut, may be added-
they are excellent for children.
344. Brown Bread Puddings, the same way.
344a. Broken Biscuit Budding.—These may be bought very
cheap at a baker's; they should be soaked in milk and sugar
the over night, and proceed as above or as No. 335. Stale
sponge cake may be used with them.
345. Rice,Macaroni, and Vermicelli Puddings.—Wash
a quarter of a pound of rice, boil till tender, drain it, place it in
the pie-dish with any kind of fruit, and one ounce of butter, in
bits; pour custard No. 361 or 343 over, and bake. Vermicelli
and macaroni previously boiled, may be done the same.
346. The Same for a Numerous Family, or School.—Two
pounds of boiled rice, with one pound of chopped suet; mix in
a pan with four eggs, ten teaspoonfuls of flour; moisten with
five pints of water, or skim-milk; add one pound of sugar and
a teaspoonful of salt; bake about one hour. To vary it, a few
Smyrna rasins may be added. Apples, or any dry fruit, may
be used, previously soaked.
347. Lemon Dumplings.—-Chop the rind of one lemon fine,
add it to the juice; chop up half a pound of suet; mix with half
a pound of bread crumbs one egg, enough milk or water to make
a stiff paste; add the lemon; sweeten to taste; divide it into five
equal parts, and boil in separate cloths for three-quarters of an
hour; serve with butter and sugar, or a little honey.
347a. Apple Dumplings.—Peel and take out the cores of a
large apple, cover it with paste No. 318 or 319, boil in a cloth,
or plainly bake for thirty minutes. Serve with butter and sugar.
348. Another.—Put into the paste in making it, two ounces
of sugar; a few sultans, or plums, may also be added, and served
with sweet melted butter or spirit sauce over.
349. A Simple Suet Dumpling.—One pound of flour, half a
pound of chopped suet, a teaspoonful of salt, quarter ditto of
pepper; moisten with water until a stiff paste: use where
required. They may be rolled in small balls, and may be used
in savoury pies, hash, or stews.


132
SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS.
350. Sice and Preserve.—Boil half a pound of rice as No. 463;
when just done, add one ounce of butter, a tablespoonful of currant
jelly, one ounce of sugar; mix all well together with a fork, and
serve. Apple marmalade, rhubarb, cherries, currants, and rasp-
berryjam, orange marmalade, &C., may be used, and an immense
variation may be made. If it is found too thick, add some milk.
Dish up in pyramids, and serve.
351. Ground RicePudding.—-Boil one pint of milk with a
little piece of lemon peel; mix a quarter of a pound of ground
rice with half a pint of milk, two ounces of sugar, and one of
butter; add this to the boiling milk; keep stirring, take it off
the fire, break in two eggs, one after the other; keep stirring;
butter a pie-dish, pour in the mixture, and bake until set. This
is one of the quickest puddings that can be made.
352. Snow Pice Cream.—Put in a stewpan four ounces of
ground rice, two ounces of sugar, a few drops of the essence
of almonds, or any other essence you choose, with two ounces of
fresh butter; add a quart of milk, boil from fifteen to twenty
minutes, till it forms a smooth substance, though not too thick;
then pour in a mould previously oiled, and serve when cold. It
will turn out like jelly.
If no mould, put either in cups or two pie-dish. The rice had
better be done a little too much, than under.
353. Sandy Pudding.—Remove the inside of three lemons
into a basin, take out the pips, add half a pound of sugar, mix
well; roll a long strip of paste, as for rolly-polly pudding, lay
the mixture over with a spoon; roll and boil the same as
rolly-polly pudding.
Orange can be done the same way, with the addition of the
juice of half a lemon.
354 Young England Pudding.—Make some paste, No. 319,
roll and lay it in a basin; then roll about seven or eight very thin
pieces the size of the bason; then get a pound of treacle, or golden
syrup, and pour a little on the paste, squeezing a little lemon
juice, and chop up the rind of a lemon, and sprinkle a little over;
add the other pieces of paste, and then the treacle and lemon
until full. Boil in a cloth for one hour, and serve with some
treacle over.


SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS.
133
I think I remember telling you, my dear Eloise, of the pleasant
time I passed at Boulogne two summers since, and of our little trip
to the Vallee Heureuse, or Happy Valley, near Marquise, a charming
village near Boulogne. In the course of our ramble on that plea-
sant day, we all gathered a lot of blackberries—but such berries as
we do not meet with in England; they are a luscious, ripe fruit.
These we took home with us to the hotel, and the next day boiled
them up with a lot of sugar, and made them into a pudding like the
above, using the fruit and syrup instead of treacle. It was very much
liked at dinner, which was a table d'hote, and the colour somewhat
resembling Uncle Tom's face, it was at once christened with that
name, and is now known as Uncle Tom's pudding. A little port
wine sauce may be used, and also black currants, boiled to a syrup.
355. Isinglass and Gelatine for Jellies.— Dissolve two
ounces of isinglass in half a pint of water; boil and reduce to
half, pass through a cloth into a basin; use where required.
Gelatine may be used the same way.
The stock of two calf's feet, reduced to half a pint, may be
used instead of isinglass; it will make it cheaper.
The stock of cow-heel can also be used.
356. Bohemian Cream. — Prepare four ounces of any fruit,
as No. 384, which pass through a sieve, and one ounce and a
half of melted isinglass to half a pint of fruit; mix it well,
whip up a pint of cream, and add the fruit and isinglass gra-
dually to it; put it in a mould; let it set on ice or in any cool
place, and when ready, dip the mould into warm water, and turn
but.
357. White Cream.-^PxA into a bason a quarter, of a pound
of sugar, a gill of pale brandy, and one and a half ounce of
either melted isinglass, gelatine, or calf's foot ; stir it well, and
add a pint of whipped cream; proceed as before. Rum, noyeau,
curacoa, or other liquors or flavours, may be added. When
liquors are used, add less sugar. If you have any ice, use only
an ounce of either.
358. Calf s-foot Jelly.—It is possible, even in the poorest
family, that jelly may be recommended in cases of illness, and
they may be at a distance from any place where it could be
purchased. I think it right to give the following receipt:—
Cut two calf's feet and put them in three quarts of water;
when boiling, remove to the side of the fire, and let it simmer
from three to four hours, keeping it skimmed; pass it through a


134 SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS.
sieve into a bason, where it must remain until quite hard; then
remove all the fat, &c., from the top. Put into a pan half a
pound of white sugar crushed, the juice of four lemons, the rind
of one, the whites and shells of five eggs, two glasses of white wine
and a pint and a half of water; stir till the sugar is melted, then
add the jelly; place it on the fire and stir well until boiling;
then pass it through a flannel bag until clear. Put in a
mould with or without fresh fruit. Set in ice or any cool
place, till firm. Brandy, rum, or any liqueurs, may be added,
or serve plain.
359. Orange Jelly.—Procure five oranges and one lemon;
take the rind off two of the oranges, and half of the lemon, and
remove the pith, put them in a bason, and squeeze the juice of
the fruit into it; then put a quarter of a pound of sugar into a
stewpan, with half a pint of water, and set it to boil until it
becomes a syrup, when take it off, and add the juice and rind
of the fruit; cover the stewpan, and place it again on the
fire; as soon as boiling commences, skim well, and add a gill
of water by degrees, which will assist its clarification; let it boil
another minute, whenadd an ounce and a half of isinglass.dissolved
as directed (No. 355), pass it through a jelly-bag, or fine sieve; add
a few drops of prepared cochineal to give an orange tint, and then
fill a mould and place it on ice; turn out as before. This jelly
does not require to look very clear.
360. Lemon Jelly is made the same way, only using six
lemons and the rind of one.
To those who wish to save trouble, I would recommend them to
buy their jellies ready made. They may be purchased at almost
every Italian warehouse in town and country, in bottles of about a
pint and a quart each, so prepared as to keep fresh and good for
years. Many of my friends use these Bottled Jellies, of which I
find the following are the best kinds: Noyeau, punch, orange, lemon,
Madeira, and plain calf's-foot. They are all very excellent and use-
ful in their way.
Dear Eloise, —While on the subject of jellies and confectionary,
I feel I should be wanting in duty to the public were I to refrain
from drawing their earnest atteution to the recent disclosures in the Lancet, which so fearlessly exposed the poisonous adulterations found
in the various articles of preserves and confectionary submitted t*
(



SWEET AND FUUIT PUDDINGS.
135
examination. There is not a doubt these disclosures have had a most
beneficial effect in checking the existence of the injurious practices
previously adhered to; and I may now look forward with confidence
to the day when not only such delicacies, but the whole of the food
we eat, may be enjoyed without the slightest fear of injury to our
health. Adulteration will then become the exception, instead of, as
it hitherto has been, the rule.
The following paragraph, copied from the Lancet of the 4th
February, 1854, appears to me not an inapt illustration of my
remarks, displaying, as it does, the difference between pure and
impure preserves, accompanied by the gratifying intelligence of the
possibility of procuring them in a wholesome state.' 361. Plain Custard.—Boil a pint of milk, in which place
two ounces of sugar, the thin peel of half a lemon; break in a
basin four eggs, beat them well with a fork, then pour in the
milk by degrees, not too hot; mix it well, pass it through a
cullender or sieve, fill cups with it, which place in a stew-
pan, on the fire, which contains one inch of water; leave them
for about twelve minutes, or till set, which is easily perceived.
362. Coffee, Cocoa, or Chocolate Custard.—Make some very
strong coffee, beat the eggs as above; put in a pan half a pint
* "The practice of imparting to bottled and preserved fruits and
vegetables a bright green colour, by means of a poisonous salt of
copper, still prevails extensively. Nothing can be more pernicious
than this practice; it has, however, received a considerable check by
the publication of the reports of the Analytical Sanitary Commission
on this subject. One firm, we know, that of Messrs. Crosse and
Blackwell, whose establishment is the most extensive of any engaged
in this branch of trade, has gone to a very considerable expense in
fitting up a large silver vessel, as well as several steam pans, which
latter are lined with a thick coating of glass enamel, for the prepara.
tion of their various manufactures; thus taking every precaution
to guard against the contact with copper. The difference in the
appearance of fruits and vegetables which are artificially coloured,
and those which have not had any colouring matter added, is
very great—so striking, indeed, that a practised eye can readily
distinguish the one from the other. The former are of a bright
and almost metallic-green hue, much deeper than that of the
recent fruit, while the latter are of a pale yellowish-green colour,
varying with the nature of the fruit or vegetable preserved. As for
the difference in the wholesomeness of the two articles, there can be but a single opinion, while, in our estimation, the appearance in the
nncoloured sample is much the most pleasing and natural."


136
SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS.
of milk and half a pint of made coffee, with two ounces of sugar,
then add the eggs, pass through a sieve, and proceed as above.
Chocolate and cocoa the same, only omitting the lemon-peel
in all three.
363. Custard in Pic Dish.—Put a border of puff paste
round the dish, fill with the above, and bake twenty minutes in
a slow oven. Eat whilst cold.
364. Custard for Puddings.—The above will be the founda-
tion for any flavour that may be introduced; as orange flower
or peel, noyeau, &c. &c. With this mixture an innumerable
number of puddings can be made, that in country places, or even
towns, will be found as economical an article of food, when
eggs are cheap, as can be partaken of, and particularly appre-
ciated by the rising generation.
365. Farm Custard.—Put in a small saucepan the yolks
of four eggs, four teaspoonfuls of sugar, the peel of half a lemon j
or a quarter of that grated, a grain of salt; mix all well, then add
half a pint of milk; set the whole on the fire, stir continually with
a wooden spoon till it gets thick and smooth; but do not let it
boil, or it will curd; then put it in a basin to cool, stirring now
and then; if handy, pass it through a sieve, it gives it a nice
appearance, and serve either in glasses or cups, with any fresh or stewed fruit, orange peel, or any essence, brandy, ofrum,
may be used for flavouring.
When at our friend Lindley's house in Yorkshire, I took a gill of
cream, whipped it, and mixed it with the custard when cold. It
made it very white and delicate. The custard may be whipped while
being made.
You wish to know what I did with the white of the eggs, and per-
fectly right that you should. Well, I put them in a basin with a
very little bit of salt, then with a whisk I beat them till firm and as
white as snow, then I add four teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, mix
it well; I put a pint of milk to boil in a very clean saute, or
frying-pan, and, with the aid of a spoon, I scoop off the white in the
shape of eggs, dropping them in the milk, letting them remain till
done, turning them occasionally; take them out, and serve when
cold, pouring some of the custard over; the remaining milk was used
for puddings. i
Even now, Eloise, you do not seem satisfied, so I send you a
receipt for a souffle. It seems to you, no doubt, very simple; let me
tell you, however, that it is so only in appearance; the great secr et



SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS.
13 in properly beating the white of the eggs; therefore, if you fail in
your attempt, do not blame me, the details of the receipt being quite accurate •
366. Egg Pudding, or Omelette Souffle".—Break four eggs;
carefully separate the white from the yolk, put both in different
basins; add to the yolk three teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar
and one of flour, a little grated orange or lemon peel, or any other
flavour you prefer; stir the whole for five minutes, then beat
the white of the eggs with a whisk; when firm, mix lightly with
the yolk till forming a nice, smooth, light, and rather firm sub-
stance; then put it either in a tin pan, cake pan, or a common
pan, which can stand the heat of the oven, buttering it well.
If in a tin dish, shape it in pyramids with a knife, put it in
a moderate oven from ten to twelve minutes, sugar over and
serve. When nearly done, an incision or two with the point of a
knife may be made through the thin crust; it will make it lighter.
You may also put two ounces of butter in the frying-pan, and
when hot put in your mixture, and toss it round three or four
times; put it on a dish, bake as above. Ten minutes will do it.
367. How to vary Bread or any Custard, Puddings.—Have
some slices of bread cut thin and buttered; lay them in the dish
singly; pour in the custard, No. 365, and bake gently, or place
in a pan with a little water in it.
These may be altered thus:—
By throwing in some currants.
Or bruised ratafia cakes.
Or sultana rasins.
Or Malaga ditto.
Or French prunes.
Or dried cherries.
Or stewed rhubarb.
Or apple; or, in fact, any fruit according to fancy.
Well boiled rice, macaroni, vermicelli, &C., may be used; the
custard always being poured over, and sifted sugar on the top.
New style, as a second-class mixture: two eggs, two table-
spoonfuls of flour, and milk enough to make it thickish.
368. Gooseberry Fool.—Put in a pan a quart of green
gooseberries, with a wineglass of water and half a pound of
sugar; stew on a slow fire for twenty minutes, keep stirring; put
in basin, and whip a pint of cream; when the fruit is cold; mix


SWEET AND FKUIT PUDDINGS.
with tho cream, and serve in cups or hollow dish, or with
pastry round it.
Apple may be done the same way.
Currants and raspberries the same.
Red rhubarb the same.
Cherries may be done the same, having previously been
stoned. If too much syrup, add a little isinglass.
369. Orange Salad. — Choose six oranges not too large,
cut them in thin slices crossways, remove the pips, lay them flat
in a dish, cover over with a quarter of a pound of sugar, a gill
of brandy, rum, or Madeira; stir them, and serve.
370. Strawberry Salad.—A large bottle of ripe strawberries,
picked and put into a basin with two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a
pinch of powdered cinnamon, a gill of brandy; stir gently, and
serve.
Currants and raspberries the same.
As all fruits and vegetables are destined for the use of man,
these should be partaken of by all classes when in season, as
they are invaluable for health.
'371. Velvet Cream.—A very excellent dish is made thus :—
Put in a dessert glass a thick layer of strawberry jam or any
other preserve, and place over it about a pint of hot snow
cream mixture, No. 352; when cold, the top may be orna-
mented with fresh or preserved fruit.
372. Rice Croquettes.—Make some of the above mixture very
stiff; when cold,roll it, or serve it in any shape you like. Egg
and bread-crumb, and fry quickly in hot fat in a frying-pan.
Sugar over.
373. Lemon Pudding.—Put in a basin a quarter of a pound
of flour, same of sugar, same of bread crumbs and chopped suet,
the juice of one good-sized lemon, and the peel grated, two
eggs, and enough milk to make it the consistency of porridge;
boil in a basin for one hour; serve with or without sauce.
374. Dripping Pudding.—Three eggs and their weight in
dripping, two tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar; beat them up until
a cream, add a few currants, and the flour gradually, until it
forms a stiff paste; bake in cups previously buttered.


SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS.
139
375. Potato Pudding.—One pound of potatoes boiled and well
mashed, a quarter of a pound of butter stirred in whilst warm,
two ounces of sugar, the rind of half a lemon chopped fine, with
the juice, a teacupful of milk; butter a tin, put in the mixture,
and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour; two eggs may be
added.
376. Dough Pudding with Apples.—Cut four apples into
dice, put over two ounces of sugar, half a pound of chopped suet,
one pound of flour, and half a pint of water; bake in a pie dish
or a mould, or boil in a basin, as a pudding; sweet sauce may
be poured over.
377. First Class Yorkshire Pudding.—Beat up two eggs
in a basin, add to them three good tablespoonfuls of flour, with
a pint of milk by degrees, and a little salt; butter the pan, bake
half an hour, or bake under the meat, cut it in four, turn it,
and when set on both sides it is done. A tin dish one inch and
a half deep and eight inches wide, is the most suitable for such
proportion.
378. Second Class.—Put in a basin four tablespoonfuls of
flour, add a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt and a little pepper,
beat one egg with a pint of milk, pour over on the flour by
degrees till smooth, and proceed as above.
379. Third Class.—If no eggs, chop two ounces of beef suet
fine, add a little soda, mix as above, and bake the same. A
little chopped parsley, chives, or aromatic herbs, may be intro-
duced in either of the above. These receipts are good with
any kind of roasted or baked meat, or poultry. To facilitate
the turning, when one side is brown and the pudding well set, cut it into several pieces, turning with a knife or a fork. If
preferred served whole, put a plate on the top of the baking tin,
turn it over, and slip it back; let it remain in the tin ten
minutes longer, and serve either round or separate.
380. Pancakes.—Put the pan on the fire with a tablespoonful
of lard, let it melt, pour off all that is not wanted, then pour in
three tablespoonfuls of the following batter:—
Break four eggs in a basin, add four small tablespoonfuls of
flour, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, a little salt; beat all well, mixing
by degrees half a pint of milk, a little more or less, depending
on the size of the eggs and the quality of the flour. It must form


STEWED FKUITS.
a rather thick Latter. A little ginger, cinnamon, or any other
flavour you fancy. Two eggs only may be used, but in this case
use a little more flour and milk. When set, and one side
brownish, lay hold of the frying-pan at the extremity of the,
handle, give it a sudden but slight jerk upwards, and the cake
will turn over on the other side; which, when brown, dish up
with sifted sugar over. Serve with lemon. Chopped apples may
be added to the batter; currants and sultanas can be mixed
with it. ^
381. Apple Fritters.—Peel and slice crossways, a quarter of
an inch thick, some apples, remove the core, and dip them one after
the other in the following batter: Put in a basin about two ounces
of flour, a little salt, two teaspoonfuls of oil, and the yolk of an
egg, moistened by degrees with water, stirring all the while
with a spoon, till forming a smooth consistency, to the thickness
of cream, then beat the white of the egg till firm, mixing it
with the batter; it is then ready to fry; use any fruit as fritters.
If no oil, use an ounce of butter previously melted, adding it to'
the batter before the white of the egg is used.
Apple Fritters Simplified.—When peeled and cut, put
sugar over, add a little lemon juice or spirits, let the piece*
soak two hours, then dip each piece in flour, and have ready 4
frying-pan, with at least two inches deep of fat, When hot,
put the apples in one at a time, turn over with a slice as they;
are doing, and serve with sugar over. All kinds of ripe pears,'
may be done in the same way.
382. College Pudding,.—Put half a pound of crumbs into a
basin, a quarter of a pound of chopped suet, the same of
currants, two eggs, two ounces of sugar, a little nutmeg and salt,
and a little milk; mix all together, make round balls, egg-crumb,
and fry in hot fat till a nice colour; dish up with sugar over; a
glass of brandy or rum in it is exceedingly good.
383. Buttered Apples.—Peel, slice, and core one pound of
apples, put into a frying-pan about two ounces of butter, add
the apple, and cover over with two ounces of pounded sugar;
put them in the oven until done. A very nice dish for children.
When done, they may be dished up on a nice crisp piece of
toast with sugar over.
384. Stewed Fruits.—These, at those periods of the year


STEWED FRUITS. when Nature has ordained that they shall come to perfection
without artificial means,-are as wholesome an article of food as
can be partaken of, as they cool the blood and are perfectly
harmless. •
They are easily done, and are cheap. In the following
receipts, which I will mark as lessons, one pound is the quantity
named.
Apples. 1st Lesson.—Peel one pound of apples, cut in slices,
remove the core, put into a stewpan with three or four ounces
of white pounded sugar, one ounce of butter, two tablespoonfuls
of water; stir gently on a slow fire until tender; use hot or cold
when required. Brown sugar may be used.
2nd Lesson.—To the above add the juice of half a lemon or
of one orange, and a little of the peel of either, or a small piece
of cinnamon, or in powder.
Red Rhubarb. 1st Lesson.—Cut ope pound of rhubarb one
inch long, put into a pan with two tablespoonfuls of water and
three ounces of white powdered sugar; stir on a slow fire till
tender.
2nd Lesson.—Stew with brown sugar: green rhubarb requires
peeling. Stir more if old.
3rd lesson.—Cut a pound of the common rhubarb, put in an
iron pot with four ounces of brown sugar; stir well with a
spoon until it is quite thick and adheres to it; take it out to
cool. It can be used, spread on bread, for tea or supper.
Green Gooseberries, 1st Lesson. — One pound of goose-
berries with six ounces of sugar; boil with two tablespoonfuls
of water, turning them well; stir, and keep until cold. Or by
mixing cream with it, it will make gooseberry fool.
Greengages, Orleans plums, egg plums, cherries, currants, red,
white, and black, raspberries, mulberries, and strawberries, may
all be done the same way.
The following is another very nice way, and may be used for
several fruits in winter. Cherries being the most difficult, we will name that in particular. All the others can be done
like it.
Cut the stalk half off of one pound of cherries, put into a pan


142
SWEET AND FRUIT CAKES.
with eight ounces of sugar; set on the stove for a few minutes,
then add half a pound of red currants, and the same of rasp-
berries; stew altogether until getting tender and the juice
becomes quite thick; put by» until cold. It may be used with
pastry or with bread.
Siberian crabs, cranberries, damsons, and all other fruits,
the same way.
All the above make a very nice light and quick dish for
supper done as follows:—
Cut some nice slices of bread half an inch thick, dip them
in milk which is sweetened, or sprinkle sugar over, then dip it
into some batter of milk and flour, and fry nicely, or put some
butter in a tin dish, bread over, and put in an oven. When
quite hot and nearly hard, put some of the above fruit over, and
serve.
385. Plum Cake.—Weigh one pound and a half of flour,
one of currants, well washed, one of butter, one of sugar, nine
eggs; put into a good-sized basin the butter, which well work,
with clean hands, until it is like a cream; in about ten minutes
it is ready; then add a little sugar and the eggs by degrees, and
then the flour, then add the currants and line a cake-hoop with
paper, put the mixture in, set it in a warm place for one hour,
and bake it for one hour in a slow oven. Half or even a
quarter of the quantity may be made.
386. Common Sort.—Put in a basin half a pound of butter,
work it well, add half a pound of sugar and four eggs, beat all
well together, then add half a pint of milk, two pounds of flour,
a quarter of a pound of caraway-seeds or half a pound of
plums; put it in a hoop or deep pie-dish, and bake two hours.
To ascertain if the cake is done, take a piece of dry wood
or skewer, pass it into the cake, and if it comes out dry, it is
done.
387. Ground RiceCake.—Break five eggs into a stewpan,
which place in another, containing hot water, whip the eggs for
ten minutes till very light, then mix in by degrees half a pound
of ground rice, six ounces of powdered sugar, beat it well; any
flavour may be introduced; pour into buttered pan and bake
half an hour.


SWEET AND FRUIT CAKES.
113
387a. Pastry Cream.—Break two eggs in a pan, add two
tablespoonfuls of flour, a pinch of salt; moisten with a pint and
a half of milk; set on the fire, boil twenty minutes, or till it
forms thickish smooth consistency; then add two ounces of
pounded sugar, one of butter, put in either a little orange flower
water, or a drop of any essence you choose, grated orange or
lemon peel. One dozen of bruised ratafias will be an improve-
ment, put in at the same time as the sugar. Previous to using,
add to the cream one ounce of butter, which you have previously
made very hot. This may be used for all kinds of pastry, in-
stead of jam.
388. Ginger Cake.—Half a pound of sugar, half a pound of
butter, one ounce and a half of ground ginger, six eggs, beat
well, stirring one pound and a half of flour, and add as much
milk, a little warm, as will make a nice stiff dough for bread;
bake in pan; it will take two hours.
388a. Sock Cakes.—Put in a basin two pounds of flour,
half of sugar, half currants, half of butter, three eggs, beat well,
make them into balls or rock, the size of eggs; bake on baking
sheets; a little milk may be added.
389. Common Gingerbread.—Put on a slab or table a
pound of flour, make a ring of it; put half a pint of treacle
in, mix well together till forming a stiff paste, working it well.
Put some flour in a basin, to which add your dough; it will
keep thus for seven or eight weeks. When you want to use it,
put in any quantity of ground ginger you require, according
to taste; mix well, roll thin, cut any size you like; pieces about
the size of a crown are best; then put them on a baking-
sheet, bake for a few minutes, till crisp. These cakes will keep
a long while if put in an air-tight case. An ounce of butter
may be used to every pound of paste.
They are excellent in assisting digestion after dinner. 390. Sice Cake.—Wash one pound of rice, put it in a stew-
pan, with a pint of water, put it on the fire; when the rice is
well soaked add a quart of milk, quarter of a pound of butter,
grated lemon-peel or a little nutmeg, or a piece of cinnamon,
boil till thick, then add two eggs, well beat, a little salt, and a


144
SWEET AND FRUIT CAKES.
quarter of a pound of sugar; place all in a greased pan or tin
breadpan; bake one hour, and serve with sugar or jam over.
391. The same a Cheaper Way.—Add to one pound of rice,
when boiled, two ounces of chopped suet, a spoonful of flour, a
quart of skim milk, some brown sugar or treacle; bake in large
pan; eat cold; and fruit of any kind may be mixed with it.
392. Apple Cake.—Butter a pie-dish near a quarter of an inch thick, throw in a large quantity of bread-crumbs, as much
as will stick, when pressed well, on the butter; then have some
apples already stewed down and sweetened, as No 384, of which
nearly fill the dish, put one ounce of butter in bits, cover
over with bread-crumbs, also half an inch thick, put into hot
oven; when done, pass a knife round and turn it out, sugar over,
and glaze with a red-hot shovel.
If used hot, a little rum put round it and lighted is very nice.
393. Spice Cake.—To one pound and a half of dough add
half a pound of butter, half of currants, half of sugar, half an
ounce of spice, beat all well together, and bake in a mould one
hour.
394. Little MilkCake for Breakfast.— Place on a table or
slab one pound of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, two of sugar,
three of fresh yeast, or a very small piece of German, two
ounces of butter and one egg; have some new milk, pour in a
gill, mix all together, adding more milk to form a nice dough,
then put some flour in a cloth, put the dough in, and lay it in a
warm place; let it rise for about two hours, cut it in pieces the
size of eggs, roll them even, and mark the top with a sharp knife;
egg over and bake quick; serve hot or cold.
A Common Sort.—Only yeast, salt, milk, and butter, and
proceed as before.
Cottage Sort.—To one pound of flour, two ounces of lard or
dripping, the yeast and skim milk.
Sweet Sort.—To one pound of flour three teaspoonfuls of
yeast, two ounces of lard or dripping, quarter of a pound of
sugar, a few currants or caraway seeds: bake quick when well
risen.


SWEET AND FRUIT CAKES. 145
395. Eccles Cake.—To a quarter of a pound of currants half
a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, some lemon-peel chopped fine,
one ounce of sugar, roll out about a quarter of a pound of puff
paste, No. 315, roll it round the size of a small plate, and nearly
an inch thick, then put a tablespoonful of the mixture over
it, roll another piece of paste over it, and bake a nice delicate
colour.
396. Bread Apple Cage...—Well butter a tart-dish of any size,
about three inches deep, cut some slices of bread quarter of an
inch thick, which lay in it so that the bottom and sides are
quite covered, stew some apple nearly dry, as No. 384, put them
on the bread until the dish is full, cover over with more butter
and bread, and bake in a hot oven for half an hour; remove it
from the dish; turn over, and dish it up with sugar on the top.
397. Tipsy Cake.—Cut a small Savoy cake in slices, put
them into a basin, and pour some white wine and a little rum
over; let soak for a few hours, put into a dish, and serve with
some custard round. It may be decorated with a few blanched
almonds or whipt cream and fruit.
These may be made with small sponge cakes, by soaking
them in some white wine, in which currant-jelly has been
dissolved; take twelve of them stale, which will cost sixpence
soak them well, put them in a dish, cover them with jam or
jelly, and thus make four layers, decorating the top with cut
preserved fruit; dish with custard or whipt cream round.
398. Plain Cake.—Mix two pounds of dry flour with
four ounces of clean dripping melted in a pint of milk, three
tablespoonfuls of yeast, and two well beaten eggs, mix well
together, and set aside in a warm place to rise, then knead well
and make into cakes; flour a tin, and place it in the oven in a
tin; carraway-seeds or currants may be added, sugar over.
399. Soda Cake.—Half a pound of good clean dripping, one
pound of flour, half a pound of sugar, not quite half an ounce of
soda; beat the dripping well with the sifted sugar, and beat tha
flour in with the soda; bake in tins in a slow oven for one hour
and a half.
Another.—Half a pound of dripping, half a pound of moist
sugar, half a pound of currants, one pound of flour, a tea-


146 BREAD.
spoonful of carbonate of soda, three eggs, well beaten and
mixed with half a pint of warm milk; then mix altogether art
bake in a tin lined with writing paper.
400. Foreign Biscuits.—A quarter of a pound of butter
mix with a pound of flour, dissolve a quarter of a pound of
sugar in half a pint of warm new milk, pour gradually to the
flour, dissolve half a teaspoonful of salt of tartar in half a tea-
cupful of cold water, add it to the flour, and make it into a stiff
paste, roll out, and cut in small cakes with a wineglass; bake in
a quick oven immediately.
401. Ground RiceCake.—Six ounces of ground rice, six ounces
of flour, four eggs, half a pound of sugar, quarter of a pound of
clean dripping, a small piece of volatile salts; beat all well together,
bake one hour in a pan. A few currants may be added, and
also a little milk, if required.
SERIES OF BREAD.
402. The bread which I strongly recommend for the labouring
class, or those who shall get their bread "by the sweat of their brow,"
is that made from unbolted flour, or whole meal. It is only the
effeminate and delicate that should partake of fine flour. The mass
of bread is increased one fifth, and the price lowered, between the
difference of the price of bran as flour, or as fodder for cattle.
Liebig says, "The separation of the bran from the flour by bolting,
is a matter of luxury, and injurious rather than beneficial as regards
the nutritive power of the bread."
It is only in more modern times the sifted flour has been known
and used, and has been followed by the poor, to imitate the luxury of
the wealthy, at the expense of their health. Certain it is, that
where whole meal is used as bread, the population have better diges-
tive organs than where it is not.
In Ireland, amongst the poor, it is almost a disgrace to eat brown
bread. During the year of the famine, being at Malahide, I saw a
female, without shoes or stockings, go into a baker's shop, purchase
two loaves, one white, and the other brown; the white she carried
in her hand, the brown she hid under her everlasting cloak—her
pride would not allow it to be seen. These ignorant people should be
told that there is hardly a family in England but what have on their
table for breakfast and tea a 'loaf of each kind of bread, white or
brown.
If the dough is made and well raised in the pan, if in small quan-
tities, as for huns, &c. throw some flour on the table, put the dough


BItEAD,
147
over, and roll it several times to form it solid; then shape the loaf or
bun; let them rise twenty minutes in a warm place, and bake according to size.
403. Cottage Bread, No. 1.—Put into a large pan fourteen
pounds of flour, add to one quart of warm water a quarter of a
pint of brewer's yeast, or two ounces of German yeast, make a
hole in the flour, and pour in the water and the yeast; stir it
well up with a wooden spoon till it forms a thickish paste, throw
a little flour over, and leave it in a warm room; in about one
hour or seventy-five minutes it will have risen and burst
through the covering of flour, then add more warm water and
four teaspoonfuls of salt, until it forms, when kneaded, a rather
stiff dough; it cannot be too much worked; then let it remain
covered with a cloth for about another hour, or an hour and a
half; the time, as well as the quantity of water it takes, depends
greatly on the quality of the flour. Cold water may be used in
summer.
Then divide the dough into five pieces; if the flour is old
and good they will weigh four pounds each, and take about one
hour and forty minutes to bake; the oven should be well
heated, and sufficiently large to bake the quantity of dough you
make at one time; if the oven is small, make only half the
quantity; the door should be well closed. If the bottom of the
oven is too hot, a tile placed on it will prevent too much bottom
crust; or a baking sheet, kept half an inch above the bottom of
the oven, will have the same effect.
In some places they bake in tins, in others in brown pans; if
so, the dough may be made softer, and allowed to rise a little
longer, though I do not approve of bread being too light, as it is
both tasteless and unprofitable.
404 Milk Bread and Rolls.—Weigh a pound of flour, put
it on the table-dresser, or in a pan, make a hole in the centre, put
in a quarter of an ounce of German yeast, one egg, two ounces of
butter, quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, have half
a pint of warm milk, put a little in, mix all well together, then
add by degrees the flour, and also the milk; it may not take the
half pint, but depends on the flour; stir all well, work it for a
few minutes, until it is a stiff dough; take a little flour and rub
off the paste which attaches to the side of the basin, roll it
round, throw some flour on the bottom of the basin, put in the
dough, keep it in a warm place for two hours, or till it has


148
BREAD.
nicely risen, then throw some flour on the board, cut the paste
off in the size of eggs, flatten them with the hand, make them
long and pointed, and make a line in the centre with the back of
the knife, egg over with a paste-brush, let them rise half an
hour longer in a warm place, bake twenty minutes in rather a
sharp oven. They ought to be of a nice yellow colour, and
light. If the yeast is doubtful, add a little more; brown yeast
is preferable.
Another plainer, No. 2.—Put in the centre of the flour two
ounces of lard, or good dripping, then add an ounce of German
yeast, a little salt, a little tepid water, with which dissolve
both yeast and lard; mix it with the flour.
405. Plainer still, No. 3.—Put a quarter of an ounce of
yeast, salt, sugar as above, add half a pint of tepid water,
proceed as above; sugar may be omitted; or make a single loaf
of it in a tin pan, or roll it into a lump; make a cross at the top
with a sharp knife, egg over, or milk and water ; bake in rather
sharp oven, which is easily ascertained by placing the hand on it;
if you cannot endure it for a quarter of a minute it is fit for
bread, but if it burns it is too hot.
406. The brown bread, or that made from whole meal, is done
in the same way; the sponge will take a little longer to rise.
Milk used in these breads will occasion it to go a little
further, and keep it moist longer; one pint is sufficient, and you
get one pound more bread; it also improves bad flour, from the
addition of gluten in the milk. A little potato starch or rice
starch will improve bad flour, and occasion it to rise better.
The following are two variations for these breads:—Put
seven pounds of flour into a pan, mix with three pints of warm
milk or water, an ounce of yeast, one ounce of salt, mix well
with the flour, set it in a warm place for three hours, form into
small loves and bake at once.
407. Rice Bread.—To fourteen pounds of dough add one
pound of ground rice, boiled in milk until in pulp and cold;
bake in small loaves.
408. Brown Bye Bread.—To three pounds of flour add one
pound of rye flour, the proportions of yeast, salt and water as
above, and may be mixed all at once; it will take a little longer
to bake.


150
A SERIES OF SAUCES.
ounce of butter, one and a half of flour, a little more salt, pepper,
and a gill more water; simmer, and serve.
These melted butters may be improved slightly by adding half a
tablespoonful of vinegar.
With half of the above quantity make the following sauces. Each
ingredient to be mixed in the saucepan. Stir and serve when nearly
boiling.
411. SERIES OF SAUCES.
Anchovy Sauce.—Add two tablespoonsful of essence of anchovies,
and mix well.
Harney's Sauce.—The same of Harvey's sauce.
Soyer's Relish.—The Battle of Soyer's relish.
Soyer's Mustard Sauce.—One teaspoonful of Soyer's mustard.
Chili Vinegar.—Three teaspoonsful of Chili vinegar.
Egg Sauce.—Two hard boiled eggs cut in dice and added.
Caper Sauce.—Two tablespoonsful of chopped capers added: if
oo capers, use pickled gherkins.
Fennell Sauce.—The same of chopped fennel.
Parsley and Butter.—The same of chopped parsley.
Mild Onion Sauce.—Boil four onions in salt and water, take them
out, chop them up, and add them to the above with a little more salt,
and a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little milk or cream.
Sage and Onion.—To the above, a tablespoonful of chopped green
sage and B little more pepper.
White Sauce.—The yolk of one egg, and mix with milk or cream
instead of water. A blade of mace is an improvement when boiling,
and stir.
Celery Sauce.—Boil in a half-pint of white gravy, if handy, if not,
water, one fine head of celery, cut in one inch lengths and well
washed,—it will take about twenty minutes,—add it to the melted
butter. The yolk of an egg beat up and stirred in is an improvement;
it may require a little more salt. Serve with poultry.
Cucumber Sauce.—Cut up two cucumbers lengthways, remove the
seeds, cut them in one inch pieces, boil them in a gill of white gravy,
with salt and pepper, add it to the melted butter; simmer and
•erve. Sugar is an improvement.
Vegetable Marrow, when young, the same as above.
412. Brown Sauce.—Put a quarter of a pound of batter and eight
ounces of flour in a saucepan, and set it on a slow fire; keep stirring


A SERIES OF SAUCES.
Cod-Liver Sauce.—Half a pound of cod-liver, previously boiled,
cut in large dice, with a little anchovy sauce, to half a pint of melted
butter. Mix the same as No. 410.
Pickle Sauce.—One tablespoonful of chopped pickle or piccallily,
one ditto of the vinegar from it; add to half a pint of melted butter,
and boil for a few minutes. Good for fish, meat, and poultry.
414. Apple Sauce.—Peel six good-sized apples, cut in four pieces,
cut out the core, slice them fine, put into a stew pan with one ounce
of brown sugar and a gill of water; stew till in pulp, and serve with
roast pork, goose, and duck.
415. Mint Sauce.—Chop three tablespoonfuls of green mint* put
it into a basin with three of brown sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt,
a quarter of pepper, and half a pint of vinegar. Use it with roast
lamb; also good with cold meat and poultry.
416. Horseradish Sauce. — Grate two tablespoonfuls of horse-
radish, which put into a basin; add to it one teaspoonful of mustard,
one of salt, a quarter of pepper, one of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of
vinegar; moisten with a little milk or cream until of a thickisb
appearance. Serve with rumpsteak, cold meat, &c.
417. Wine and Spirit Sauce.—Add to half a pint of melted
butter, without salt, two tea spoonfuls of whit e or brown sugar, a
glass of brandy, or rum, or sherry, or any liquors.
418. Hotel Keeper's Sauce.—Mix in half a pint of melted butter
one tablespoonful of hotel keeper's butter, No. 426-J warm it and
serve.
419. A White Sauce for boiledFowls, e&c.—If for two fowls,
add to one pint of molted butter (No. 410) two yolks of raw eggs,
which mix well with a gill of cream, or milk, and when the melted
butter is near boiling mix in and stir very quick, do not let it boil;
add a little grated nutmeg and stir in a little more butter, season
with a little more white pepper, and the juice of a lemon, and pour
over your poultry. This is not an every day sauce, but is exceedingly
useful to know.
A little chopped parsley, ham, or tongue sprinkled over the fowl
after the sauce is on, gives it a pleasing appearance.
Or parsley chopped fine, or capers, gherkins, mushrooms, or tongue
cut into dice, or green peas, may be added to this sauce to change it.
420. A sharp Brown Sauce for hroiled Fowls and Meat.—Put a
tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stew pan with one of Chia
vinegar, one of common vinegar, one of colouring, three of water


A SERIES OF SAUCES.
153
two of mushroom ketchup, two of Harvey's sauce, one of anchovy,
and a pint of melted butter, No. 2; let it simmer until it becomes
rather thick to adhere to the back of the spoon, add half a teaspoon-
ful of sugar. This is excellent to almost all kinds of broiled meats,
and gives a nice relish to stews, fish, poultry, &c.
421. The same simplified.—Put into a pan one tahlespoonful of
chopped onion, three spoonfuls of vinegar, one of colouring, six of
water, three of either Harvey's sauce, or ketchup, a little pepper and
salt, a pint of melted butter, boil till thickish; serve for the same as
above.
422. OnionSauce.—Peel and cut six onions in slices; put in a
stew pan, with two ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one of
sugar, a half one of pepper; place on a slow fire to simmer till in a
pulp, stirring them now and then to prevent them getting brown,
then add one tablespoonful of flour, a pint of milk, and boil till a
proper thickness, which should be a little thicker than melted butter;
serve with mutton cutlets, chops, boiled rabbits, or fowl; by not
passing it, it will do for roast mutton and boiled rabbit as onion
423. Caper Sauce.—Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter
Into a stew pan, place it on the fire, and when on the point of boiling,
add one ounce of fresh butter and one tablespoonful of capers; shake
the stew pan round over the fire until the butter is melted, add a
little pepper and salt, and serve where directed.
424. Cream Sauce.—Put two yolks of eggs in the bottom of a
stew pan, with the juice of a lemon, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt,
a little white pepper, and a quarter of a pound of hard fresh butter;
place the stew pan over a moderate fire, and commence stirring with
a wooden spoon, (taking it from the fire now and then when getting
too hot,) until the butter has gradually melted and thickened with
the eggs—(great care must be exercised, for if it should become too
hot the eggs would curdle, and render the sauce uselesss) then add
half a pint of melted butter; stir altogether over the fire, without
of boiled fish, poultry, meat, or vegetables.
425. Mustard Sauce.—Put in a stew pan four tablespoonfuls ot
popped onions (No. 449), with half an ounce of butter, put on the
fire and stir till it gets rather hot, add half a teaspoonful of flour,
mixed well, also half a pint of milk or broth (No. 1); let the
whole boil ten minutes, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a
quarter that of pepper, a little sugar, and two teaspoonfuls of
French or English mustard; when it boils it is ready.
jsauce.
permitting it to boil. This


154
A SERIES OF SAUCES.
425a. Blade Sutter.—Put two ounces of salt butter in a stew
pan, set it on the fire; when it gets hot and brown add about
twenty parsley leaves, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of that of
pepper, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, let the whole boil one
minute and pour over any article suitable for this kind of sauce.
425r. Curry Sauce.—Peel and cut two middling sized onions in slices, one apple cut in dice, and two ounces of bacon; put them
into an iron stew pan, with one ounce of butter or fat, put on the
fire, stir round for five or six minutes, then add three teaspoonfuls of
flour, one of curry powder, mixed well; moisten with a pint of milk,
half a teaspoonful of salt, and one of sugar; boil till rather thick,
and serve over any article suitable for its use.
If passed through a sieve, put it back into the stew pan, let it boil
one minute, and skim it, will be a very great improvement. Curry
paste may be used. Broth or water may be used.
425c. A simpler Manner.—Apples and onions may both be used,
as also a pint of melted butter (No. 410). In this no flour need be
used.
425e. Bread Sauce.'—Put in a stew pan four tablespoonfuls of
bread crumbs, a quarter of one of salt, half that of pepper, ten pepper
corns, peel a small onion, cut in four, add a pint of milk, half an
ounce of butter; boil for ten minutes, when it ought to turn out a
thickish sauce.
Important Observation.—It will be seen that in the above sauces
there is hardly any but the three first which may not be made
with the produce of the cottage garden, or of those articles which
are in daily use, and if these directions are followed, many a ion
vivant in London would often envy the cooking of the cottage, as it
would contain the freshness and aroma of fresh gathered vegetables 426. Motel Keeper's Suiter.—This is very simple and good, and
will keep potted for a long time. It is excellent with all broiled
meats.
Put on a plate a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a quarter of a
spoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, two of chopped parsley, the juice of a middle sized lemon (if no lemon, use vinegar); a little
grated nutmeg may be added.
427. Anchovy Butter.—To a quarter of a pound of butter, two
tablespoonfuls of anchovy sauce.


A. GEEIES OF SALADS.
155
ON SALADS.
What is more refreshing than salads when your appetite seems tj
have deserted you, or even after a capacious dinner—the nice, fresh,
green, and crisp salad, full of life and health, which seems to invigo-
rate the, palate and dispose the masticating powers to a much longer
duration. The herbaceous plants which exist fit for food for man,
are more numerous than may be imagined, and when we reflect how
many of these, for want of knowledge, are allowed to rot and decom-
pose in the fields and gardens, we ought, without loss of time, to make
ourselves acquainted with their different natures and forms, and vary
our food as the season changes.
Although nature has provided all these different herbs and plants
as food for man at various periods of the year, and perhaps at one
period more abundant than another, when there are so many ready
to assist in purifying and cleansing the blood, yet it would be
advisable to grow some at other seasons, in order that the health
may be properly nourished.
However, at what period of the year or at what time, these may
be partaken of, the following dressing is the one I should always
recommend.
In my description of salads, I have advised and described the use
of them as plainly dressed, such as they are in many parts of Europe,
but perhaps many of our readers will want to know how the sauce is
made which is often used with the salad herbs, or such as the Italian
count used to make some years since, by which he made a fortune in
dressing salads for the tables of the aristocracy. It is as follows :—
PLAIN COSS SALAD.
428. Co.ts Lettuce.—Take two large lettuces, remove the faded
leaves and the coarse green ones, then cut the green top off, pull
each leaf off separate, cut it lengthways, and then in four or six
pieces; proceed thus until finished. This is better without
washing. Having cut it all up put it into a bowl ; sprinkle over
with your finger a small teaspoonful of salt, half one of pepper,
three of oil, and two of English vinegar, or one of French; with
the spoon and fork turn the salad lightly in the bowl till well
mixed; the less it is handled the better; a teaspoonful of chopped
chervil and one of tarragon is an immense improvement.
The above seasoning is enough for a quarter of a pound of
lettuce.


156
A SERIES OP SALADS.
429. Cabbage Lettuce.—Proceed the same as above, pull off
the outer leaves and throw them away, take off the others one by
one, and cut in two, put them in a pan with cold water, then
drain them in a cloth, by shaking it to and fro violently with
one hand, and extract all the water, put them into a bowl, and
season and dress as above.
To vary them, two hard boiled eggs, cut in quarters, may be
added ; a little eschalot, a few chives, or young onions.
To improve the appearance of these salads, when on the table,
before being used, the flower of the nasturtium may be inter-
mixed with taste and care, with a little cut beetroot and slices of
radish. These are refreshing to the sight on a table or side-
board at dinner; slices of cucumber may be also introduced.
430. Endive.—This ought to be nicely blanched and crisp,
and is the most wholesome of all salads. Take two, cut away
the root, remove the dark green leaves, and pick off all the rest,
wash and drain well, dress as before; a few chives is an improve-
ment.
431. French Fashion.—Put in one clove of garlic, or rub a
piece of crust of bread slightly with it, or the salad-bowl, mix
the salad in the bowl as before; if rubbed slightly on the bread
mix it with it. If properly contrived, it gives a flavour, which
no one can detect. Tarragon or chervil may be used in these
Hlads.
432. Marsh Mallow.—The roots of these should be removed,
as likewise the faded leaves; dress as for lettuce No. 428; eggs
and beetroot may be introduced in this, being almost a winter
salad.
Dandelion, or dent-de-lion, should not remain long in water,
as they will get {oo bitter; dress them as endive.
Cow salad the same way.
Watercresses the same, with a little cucumber and celery.
433. Mustard and Cress.—These, if eaten alone, make ah
excellent salad ; they should be quickly washed and used, dressed
as lettuce. A little tarragon 6v chervil, or a few chives, may be
used.
434. Salad Sauce.—Boil one egg hard, when cold remove the
yolk, put it into a basin, bruise it to a pulp with a spoon,—do not
use iron, prefer wood,—then add a raw yolk and a teaspoonful of


153
A SERIE3 OK SALADS.
4,38. Meat and Poultry.—If there are any of the above left,
and you require a relishing dish, and not having any fresh
salad herbs, proceed as for the other salads, using a little chopped
parsley, onions, or pickles. Some cucumber or celery may be
used. The meat or poultry should be cut small.
439. With Salad.—A very nice and elegant dish may be
made with all kinds of cold fish, and some kinds of shell-fish;
but the following way of dressing is for a small Lobster Salad,
and will do for all fish salads: Have the bowl half filled with
any kind of salad herb you like, either endive or lettuce, &c.
Then break a lobster in two, open the tail, extract the meat in
one piece, break the claws, cut the meat of both in small slices,
about a quarter of an inch thick, arrange these tastefully on
the salad, take out all the soft part from the belly, mix it in a
bason with a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, four of vinegar,
four of oil; stir it well together, and pour on the salad; then
cover it with two hard eggs, cut in slices, a few slices of cucum-
ber, and, to vary, a few capers and some fillets of anchovy; stir
lightly, and serve, or use salad sauce, No. 434.
If for a dinner, ornament it with some flowers of the nas-
turtium and marigold.
440. Crab Salad.—The same as the lobster.
E jmains of cold cod, fried soles, halibut, brill, turbot, stur-
geon cut as lobster, plaice, &C., may be used in the same way.
Ma chEre Eloise,—In the foregoing receipts you will perceive
that I have used each salad herb separate, only mixing them with
the condiments or with vegetable frait. I have a strong objection
to the almost diabolical mixture of four or five different sorts of
salad in one bowl, and then chopping them as fine as possible; the
freshness as well as the flavour of each is destroyed; they agree
about as well together as would brandy and soda water mixed with
gin andgingerbeer, for each salad herb has its own particular flavour,
and the condiments, which are onions, chives, parsley, chervil, tarra-
gon, celery, eschalot, garlic, cucumber, beetroot, &c, &c,are only to
give it piquancy like the oil and vinegar, salt, and pepper.
Mustard and cress and water cresses may be considered as a slight
condiment, but should be used accordingly. It is remarkable that
though the inhabitants of this country were for so many centuries
(from the nature of the climate) a salad-eating people, yet they seem
the least to know how to season them. Until the introduction of


RELISHES.
15a
the potato, in 1G50, and which was first eaten as a sweetmeat, stowed
in sack wine and sugar, the various salads were in common use on
the tables in Britain, of which country most of the plants are» indigenous.
RELISHES.
441. Herring in Whisky.—Well wash and clean a red
herring, wipe it dry and place it in a pie-dish, having cut off
the head, and split it in two up the back; put a gill or two of
whisky over the herring, according to size, hold it on one side
of the dish, so that it is covered with the spirit, set it alight,
and when it goes out the fish is done.
412. Devilled Bones.—Take the bones of any remaining
joint or poultry, which has still some meat on, which cut across
slightly, and then make a mixture of mustard, salt, cayenne, and
pepper, and one teaspoonful of mushroom ketchup to two of
mustard; rub the bones well with this, and broil rather brownish.
MUSHROOMS, OR THE PEARL OF THE FIELDS.
I HEBE send you, Eloise, a most sumptuous relish. There is one dish which the Devonshire cottager can procure and enjoy better
than even the most wealthy person. It is the mushroom. After
having plucked them, perhaps on the road home for his breakfast,
broiled them over a nice bright fire, seasoned with a little pepper and
salt, and a small bit of butter placed inside of them; the flavour is
then pure and the aroma beautiful, but by accident I discovered a new
and excellent way to cook them. Being in Devonshire, at the end of
September, and walking across the fields before breakfast to asmall
farmhouse, I found three very fine mushrooms, which I thought
would be a treat, but on arriving at the house I found it had no
oven, B bad gridiron, and a smoky coal fire. Necessity, they say,
is the mother of Invention, I immediately applied to our grand and
universal mamma, how I should dress my precious mushrooms, when
a gentle whisper came to my ear, and the following was the result.
443. I first cut two good slices of bread, half an inch thick, large enough to cover the bottom of a plate, toasted them, and spread
Bome Devonshire cream over the toast. I removed all the earthy
part from the mushroom, and laid them gently on the toast, head downwards, slightly sprinkled them with salt and pepper, and placed
in each 'a little of the clotted cream; I then put a tumbler over each
and placed them on a stand before the fire, and kept turning them so
as to prevent the glass breaking, and in ten to fifteen minutes the glass


1G0
RELISHES.
was filled with vapour, which is the essence of the mushroom; when it
is taken up, do not remove the glass for a few minutes, by which
time the vapour will have become condensed and gone into the bread,
but when it is, the aroma is so powerful as to pervade the whole
apartment.
The sight, when the glass is removed, is most inviting, its whiteness
rivals the everlasting snows of Mont Blanc, and the taste is worthy of
Iineullus. Vitellius would never have dined without it; Apiciug would
never have gone to Greece to seek for crawfish; and had he only
half the fortune left when he committed suicide, he would have pre-
ferred to have left proud Rome and retire to some villa or cottage to
enjoy such an enticing dish.
Therefore, modern gourmets, never fancy that you have tasted
mushrooms until you have tried this simple and new discovery.
Remember the month—the end of September or the beginning of
October.
As Devonshire cream is not to be obtained everywhere, use butter,
or boil some milk till reduced to cream, with a little salt, pepper,
and one clove; when warm put in an ounce of butter, mixed with a
little flour, stir round, put the mushroom on the toast with this sauce,
cover with a basin, and place in the oven for half an hour. In this
way all kinds of mushrooms will be excellent. They may be put into
baking pans: cover with a tumbler as above, and bake in oven.
444 Welsh Rabbit.—Toast a round of bread from a quartern
loaf; put about four ounces of cheese into a small saucepan or
pipkin with a teaspoonful of mustard, a little pepper and salt,
and a wineglass of ale; break the cheese small, set it on the fire,
and stir until it is melted, when pour over the toast, and serve
quickly.
Md.—Toast a round of bread, and place on it two pieces of
cheese, single Gloucester, a quarter of an inch thick; place it
before the fire, and as the cheese melts, spread it over the bread
with a knife, also a little cayenne and mustard.
3rd.—Take a penny French roll, cut off a thin slice from one
feed, and take out some of the crumb and place it in the oven. Melt
the cheese as above, and pour it into the roll, itis very
good for a journey, or a sportsman, and can be eaten cold.
4th, or Irish Babbit.—Toast a round of bread; chop up four
ounces of cheese, a small piece of butter, one gherkin, some
mustard, pepper, and salt, until it is quite a paste; 'jread it


culinary miscellaneous.
161
over the toast, and place them in the oven for five minutes, and
^ -ferve hot.
415.—Mussels may be eaten plain. Put a quart of them
in a pan, after being well washed, with some onions cut in
slices, also a little parsley; put them on a sharp fire for ten
minutes, when they will all open; then remove the beard
and black part, and eat them plain with some of their juice.
446. Oysters on Toast.—Open twelve very large oysters, put
them in a pan with their liquor, a quarter of a teaspoonful of
pepper, a wineglass of milk, two cloves, and a small piece of
mace, if handy; boil a few minutes until set, mix one ounce of
butter with half an ounce of flour, put it, in small pieces, in
the pan, stir round; when near boiling pour over the toast, and
serve. A little sugar and the juice of a lemon, is a great
improvement.
447. Oysters,plain scalloped.—-Butter and bread crumb the
Jop shell, put in six oysters, season, and bread crumb, then
£ more, season again, and bread crumb; if a large shell, six more,
/ith a little cayenne and butter, and some of their liquor; cover
thick with bread crumbs, put in oven, or on gridiron, for thirty
minutes; brown with salamander, or on a shovel, and serve.
These may also be done in patty pans.
Pieces of the liver of the cod, put into boiling water and set,
may be added to any of the above escalops.
44S. Scallops. — lobsters, crabs, and crayfish must be first
boiled, the flesh removed from the shell, and minced, adding a
little chopped onion, pepper, salt, and butter, the scallop shell
well greased, the flesh of the fish laid in, well bread crumbed, and
put in the oven or on the gridiron for thirty minutes, and serve.
These require a little more pepper or cayenne than other fish,
and a little Chili vinegar may be added. Two spoonfuls of
melted butter mixed with the flesh of a lobster makes it very
fl ious.
449. How to chop Onions.—Few persons know how to chop
onions properly. In the first place, all the dry skin must be
removed, then a thin slice off the top and bottom, or they will
be bitfcr.then cut them into thin slices, dividing the onion, and


1G2
CULINARY MISCELLANEOUS.
cut crossways to form dice. If a very slight flavour is required,
and the onion is strong, like in the north of England, for i1
must be remembered that the further north you go, th
stronger the flavour of the root, and if French receipt books
are exactly copied, it is no wonder that complaints are made of
the preponderance of the flavour of the onion; in which case,
when chopped, put them in the corner of a napkin or cloth,
wash them in water, squeeze them dry, then put them back on
the board, and chop finer; or sometimes only rubbing the pan
or the meat with the onion is quite sufficient.
450. Larding.—The word larding has very often occurred it
our receipts; it may be thought to belong to a style of cookei^
too good for the cottage. On the contrary, it is an economica.
process, and will make lean meat go much farther than with-
out it.
Get what is called a larding needle, that is, a piece of steel
from six to nine inches long, pointed at one end, and having
four slits at the other, which will hold a small strip of bacon
when put between them. They will perhaps cost tenpence.
Cut the pieces of bacon two or three inches long and a quarter
to half an inch square, put each one after the other in the pin,
insert it in the meat, and leave only half an inch out; eight
pieces to each pound.
451. Bunch of Sweet Herbs.—In many of the receipts is
mentioned a bunch of sweet herbs, which consists, for some
stews and soups, of a small bunch of parsley, two sprigs of
thyme, and one bayleaf; if no parsley, four sprigs of winter
savory, six of thyme, and one bayleaf.
452. Bread Crumbs.—Take a piece of the crumbs of stale
bread not too hard, bruise it with your hand, then pass it
through a coarse sieve or cullender, or in cloth; use where
required.
453. Browning for Sauces.—Put half a pound of brown
sugar into an iron saucepan, and melt it over a moderate fine
for about twenty-five minutes, stirring it continually, until quite
black, but it must become so by degrees, or too sudden a heat
will make it bitter, then add two quarts of water, and in ten
minutes the sugar will be dissolved. Bottle for use.


CULINARY MISCELLANEOUS.
103
453a. Coloured Water.—Put in a basin a pint of water and
two teaspoonfuls of the above sugar browning; mix well; use
where indicated, either for stews, gravies, or sauces.
454 Pease Pudding.—Put a pint of split peas into a cloth,
leave room for their swelling, boil in a gallon of soft water; if
good, they will take an hour, but leave them till tender; pass
them through a sieve or cullender, thou add a teaspoonful of
salt, half of pepper, two ounces of butter, and two eggs, which,
if scarce, can be omitted; heat up, tie again in cloth, boil for one hour, and serve with boiled pork. Or when plain boiled,
and the peas are done, open the cloth, season, mix well, butter
a basin, shape in, and serve.
455. How to Boil Mice.—Put one quart of water in a pot,
boil it, wash half a pound of rice, and throw it into the boiling
water; boil for ten minutes, or until each grain is rather soft,
but separate; drain it in a colander, put it back in a pot which
you have slightly greased with butter, let it swell slowly near
the fire, or in the oven, until wanted. A little butter may be added; each grain will then swell up, and be well separated.
456. Veal Stuffing.—Chop half a pound of suet, put it in a
basin with three quarters of a pound of bread crumbs, a tea-
spoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, a little thyme, or lemon *
peel chopped, three whole eggs, mix well, and use where
directed. A pound of bread crumbs and one more egg may be
used: it will make it cut firmer.
457. IAver Stuffing.—To the above quantity of stuffing,
chop fine four ounces of the liver of either calf, pig, sheep, or
lamb, poultry, or game; mix well and use, adding a little more
seasoning.
These stuffings are varied by the mixture of a little cooked
ham, anchovies, olives, capers, pickles, or even red herring. In
fact, a variety of ways, according to fancy, for any dish you
please.
453. Biscuit Balls.—Put in a basin half a pound of suet,
three teaspoonfuls of onions chopped fine, one of parsley, half
of salt, quarter of pepper, ten tablcspooniols of biscuit powder,
two passover biscuits soaked in milk or water a fow hours before 


CULINARY MISCELLANEOUS.
165
add four ounces of cheese or more, a little butter, salt, and
pepper; toss it well together and serve. It will be found light
and nutritious, and well worthy the notice of vegetarians.
464. How to Toast Bread.—Procure a nice square loaf that
has been baked one or two days previously, then with a sharp
knife cut off the bottom crust evenly, and then as many slices as
you require, about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Contrive
to have a clear fire: place a slice of the bread upon a toasting-
fork, about an inch from one of the sides, hold it a minute
before the fire, then turn it, hold it another minute, by which
time the bread will be thoroughly hot, then begin to move
it graduaJUy to and fro .until the whole surface has assumed a
yellowish-brown colour, then turn it again, toasting the other
side in the same manner; lay it then upon a hot plate, have
some fresh or salt butter, (which must not be too hard, as press-
ing it upon the toast would make it heavy,) spread a piece,
rather less than an ounce, over, and cut the toast into four or
six pieces; should you require six such slices for a numerous
family, about a quarter of a pound of butter would suffice for the
whole. You will then have toast made to perfection.
4G4a. Jam of all kinds.—Almost all small farmers and cot-
tagers have generally some kind of fruit to spare at the end of
the season, any of which can be made into jam. Thus, for
strawberry jam, pick one pound of strawberries, put them in a
pan with three quarters of a pound of white powdered sugar;
put the whole on the fire, stir with a wooden spoon, and boil till
rather thick; or try a little on a plate, if it sets. When cold,
fill your preserve jars, cover over with strong white paper, and
let them remain in a rather cold place.
Raspberries and green gooseberries will require a little more boiling, and more sugar. Cranberries, mulberries, cherries, and
currants, can all be done the same way.
464b. Currant Jelly.—Put in a pan half a sieve of fresh
gathered currants, with the stalks; add to it a gill of water, put
on the fire, and boil till every currant has opened; then pass the
juice through a sieve or cullender, and to every quart put one
pound of white sugar; boil fast and skim, and when the preserve
begins to stick to the spoon, and is quite clear, fill your preserve
pots, and cover over when cold; but, to be sure, try some on a


HINTS ON TEA, COFFEE, ETC.
1G7
the little parlour was not only clean, but ornamented, at the cost of
a few pence, with wall flowers from the neighbouring garden (the
best in the world, Covent Garden), generously dispensing their per-
fume over pyramids of muffins and crumpets. Having cordially
shaken hands with my host, I set cheerfully to work, and got
hold of an old pitcher, but clean; in it I put the coffee, and
placed it close before the fire, begging the old lady to keep
turning it round, and stirring it till the powder was hot. I then
poured three quarts of boiling water, allowed it to stand for ten
minutes, and then poured it out into the cups, with the best milk that
could be got, and sugar. The coffee being partaken of, I put into
each cup a good teaspoonful of canister cocoa, with half a teaspoonful
of sugar, holding the kettle in one hand and a spoon in the other. I
poured on the water, and kept stirring all the time, adding a little
milk. In the meantime I had put one ounce of tea into a large
teapot, which I had placed by the side of the fire, in order that
the leaves should get hot, so that when the water was poured on
them, that they should immediately give forth their aroma. By
the time the cocoa had been partaken of, the tea was ready, and
it was declared by all the old dames present that they never had had
such a cup of tea, although they bought it at the same shop,
and paid the same price; and they could not account for such
"legerdemain," but would endeavour to imitate it. I was greatly
thanked on my departure, and received the compliment of an old
shoe being thrown after me; not a French dancing shoe, but a
genuine British bit of solid work, the sole having a very uneven
appearance, being studded with several dozen of iron nails.
Thus terminated the entertainment given to me by these poor but
grateful people of the black back street of St. Giles's.
I made the cocoa thus, not having sufficient utensils; but I have
found it an economical plan to make the ground cocoa hot, adding a
little water, and mixing it smooth with either cold milk or water, it
gives it a richness which is not got by the usual system. Place it on
the fire, keep stirring, and when just on the point of boiling, serve.
Chocolate can be made the same way, only stirring it more, with a
spoon, if you have no chocolate pot.
In the way of coffee, in my opinion, nothing can be more pure
than what I bought the other day from the canister, when walking
by chance in the Borough, at the shop of Messrs. White and Fair-
child; and I must, while on this subject, be allowed to state that, in
my opinion, a good cup of coffee cannot be made without the intro-
duction of a little chicory, although I am aware that some dealers
imposed on the public by selling an article composed of chicory at
a coffee price. I cannot but admire Messrs. White's plan, which is
on no account to sell any ground coffee mixed with chicory, but to sell
it to their customers, the one separate from tbs other. They then


168
BEVERAGES.
recommended to me some canister coffee, patented and prepared only
by them. On opening the canister the aroma was very refreshing.
On asking how it was roasted (rather a bold question on my part,
I admit), he very civilly asked mo to follow him to the back of the
premises, where some very extensive rooms are fitted up for the purpose
of roasting; he then put some coffee-berries into a cylinder six feet
in length and twenty inches in circumference; then put them in a
furnace which roasted the berries in a most scientific manner, being
turned during the while by the aid of steam power. When suffi-
ciently roasted, the coffee was, while hot, put in a steam mill and
ground, being forced from the mill into the canisters and sealed
up as soon as possible, and put into stock. I beg to forward you one of
the four quarter of a pound packets I bought. On testing it I
found that an ounce made one quart of excellent coffee.
BEVERAGES.
As far as the food of man goes, I believe, dearest, that our duty is
almost at an end; but here is one important item which supports
the vitality of man as much as food does, I mean beverages; in fact,
one is inseparable from the other: to drink without eating, or to eat
without drinking, would soon send us to an early grave. True, if too
much is taken of one or the other, it upsets the digestive organs, and
materially affects the functions of that most important part of the
human frame, the stomach, which, acting in accordance with the
wonderful works of nature, refuses any food or drink that does not
accord with its functions. True, bad food and beverages of all kinds
are sometimes forced on it; but then,' if it does not disturb its functions
immediately, it acts on it gradually, and in course of time entirely
destroys its coating or toilette. Is it not, then, important, that great
care should be taken in what we eat or drink? The best of food is often
spoilt by drinking bad beverages. Amongst the higher orders of
society, the pride of an "epicure"is to select the best of wines, which
he considers one of his greatest treasures, scientifically classing them
to the various courses of his dinner.
You probably will again remark, that I am deviating from the
purport of our present little work, by alluding to the higher class of
living in its pages, while in reality it is intended for the million, and
not for the wealthy few. My excuse is, that if a rich gourmet take
so much care in selecting his beverages, why should not a poor house-
wife be as particular in choosing her more humble drinks? Is it not
more desirable for the artizan, who cannot afford to drink much beer,
to have with his meal a sound clear glass of pure water, full of health
and life, than to have a muddy one? For I nave actually seen people
drink the draining* as they drip from the roof of a house—the simple


BEVERAGES.
169
idea of letting it rest for a minute never entering their heads; or better still, to clarify it by passing it through a clean cloth, or giving it a boil,
and letting it get cold before drinking, for any doubtful water will
improve and get soft by boiling.
For those in middling circumstances, who can afford their malt
liquor at their meals, pale ale, or light table-beer, or ale, is preferable
to any heavy stout, as they facilitate digestion.
Since my return from France, there is nothing I miss so much as
that light and cooling drink called by our allies " Vin ordinaire,"
though I was in hopes that after the great exertions made by several
members of parliament, a reduction of the duty on these simple but
generous wines would take place, though probably they would not
be partaken of to any great extent by the masses, who would not
understand their properties, although there is not one Englishman out
of twenty who visits France, but who in time takes a liking to these
really harmless wines.
I do not want to deprive you of your sherry or port before or after
dinner; however, recollect that nothing assists digestion and refreshes
the palate more than a good glass of light wine; and therefore it
would be a great boon to the public if they could be imported free of
duty.
To our friend Dr. King I am much indebted, after having had a
conversation on the above subject, for his sending, to me the other
day a case of pure French wine, having, as he stated in his letter,
been present while it was drawn from the rough French cask.
I was more astonished when he informed me that its price was only
twenty-eight shillings per dozen, and was purchased from the famous
house of Campbell, of Regent Street, London. Ifr appears that this
gentleman pays an annual visit to the different vintages and villages
which encompass the banks of the Garonne, and purchases largely
from the peasantry, remaining there all the brewing season, and per-
sonally superintending its make. The principal wines are called
"La Rose," " St. Julien," "Vin do Grave," " Sauterne," " Barsac,"
and numerous other kinds, all of which are highly recommended
by the faculty. Light Amontillado, Rhenish wine, and Bucellas, are
also commendable at meal-times.
For those who cannot afford to buy malt liquors or wines, I have
been led to try the following receipts, which will be found extremely
useful for people in small circumstances.


170
CIIEAP CHINKS.
A SERIES OF NEW AND CHEAP DRINKS.
467. Put a gallon of water on to boil, cut up one pound of apples,
each one into quarters, put them in the water, and boil them until
they can be pulped, pass the liquor through a cullender, boil it up
again with half a pound of brown sugar, scum, and bottle for use,
taking care not to cork the bottle, and keep it in a cool place: the
apples may be eaten with sugar.
Another way.—Bake the apples first, then put them in a gallon pan,
add the sugar, and pour boiling water over, let it get cold, pass the
liquor as above, and bottle.
468. Apple Toast and Water.—A piece of bread, slowly toasted
till it gets quite black, and added to the above, makes a very nice and
refreshing drink for invalids.
469. Apple Barley Water.—A quarter of a pound of pearl barley
instead of toast added to the above, and boil for one hour, is also a
very nice drink.
470. Apple Mice Water.—Half a pound of rice, boiled in the above
until in pulp, passed through a cullender, and drunk when cold.
All kinds of fruits may be done the same way.
Pigs and French plums are excellent; also raisins.
A little ginger, if approved of, may be used.
471. For Spring Drink.—Rhubarb, in the same quantities, and
done in the same way as apples, adding more sugar, is very cooling.
Also green gooseberries.
471a. Lemonade.—Cut in very thin slices three lemons, put them
in a basin, add half a pound of sugar, either white or brown; bruise
altogether, add a gallon of water, and stir well. It is then ready.
472. For Summer Drink.—One pound of red currants, bruised with
some raspberry, half a pound of sugar added to a gallon of cold
water, well stirred, allowed to settle, and bottled.
473. Mulberry.—The same, adding a little lemon-peel.
A little cream of tartar or citric acid added to these renders them
more cooling in summer and spring.
ON MARKETING.
My beau FrieM),—In most cookery books, which are supposed to
be written for the middle classes of society' y, we find at the beginning,
and in large type, directions how to market and choose the best joints
of meat, poultry, fish, but rarely vegetables, how all the best
qualities of each should be known, but nothing is said about the
second and third qualities, which two-thirds of the people of England
i^ume; also directions for judging of the finest haunch of mutton, or


ON MARKETING. 171
sirloin of beef, but never of the neck or scrag of mutton, or the skirt
of beef, or sheep's head, liver, &c.
If the directions of those works were strictly followed, one-third of
the people would be starving, and a population of dogs (as in Turkey)
would have to be kept to eat up the supposed offal. At the present
moment our soldiers, as well as those of our allies, the French, are
feeding excellently off that which is thrown away by the Turks, the
head, feet, &c. &c., of the animal, which is by them declared unclean.
Such ought never to be the case in a Christian country, for we may be quite certain that, unless the animal is diseased, all those parts which
can be digested is good food for man; but, there may be some who,
from over-indulgence in luxuries, have so brought the stomach into
that state, that there are but certain parts of the animal of which
they can partake; these persons must, of course, pay higher prices
for that kind of meat, and leave the other parts cheaper for those
having healthy and good digestions to feed on. It is, therefore, our
duty here to teach the labourer's and cottager's wife how to buy it
cheap, sweet, wholesome, and nutritious.
Mutton.—The first quality of mutton ought to be between four
or five years old; but at present it is rarely got above three, and often
under two years. The flesh ought to be a darkish, clear, red colour,
the fat firm and white, the meat short and tender when pinched,
and ought not to be too fat.
Second quality.—The fat is rather spongy, the lean close and
rough grained, and a deep red, and the fat adheres firmly to the meat.
Third quality.—This is, perhaps, a sheep which has had some disease
and recovered; the liver would always show this, but as butchers
generally remove it, and do not let it be seen, you cannot judge from it.
The flesh will be paler, the fat a faint white, and the flesh loose from
the bone; if very bad and diseased the fat will be yellow, and the least flabby and moist. To ascertain if it is fresh proceed as for pork.
Lamb should be four or five months old, and ought to weigh from
thirty to forty pounds; the fat ought to be white and light in appear-
ance, the flesh a faintish white, smooth, and firm to the touch.
The second quality is not so well covered with fat, the flesh rather
red, the meat softer, and every joint presents a coarser appearance.
The third quality is flabby, lean, and red, the fat rather yellow,
and will keep sweet but a short time.
To ascertain it fresh, place the finger between the loin and kidney,
and, if moist, or tainted, will be easily ascertained by the smell.
Beef.—Most towns and counties in the United Kingdom differ in
the kind of cattle brought to market. It is not our duty here to
mention the breed which we think the best, and on which so many
different opinions exist; but the quality of meat depends upon the


174
KITCHEN REQUISITES.
KITCHEN REQUISITES..
As a workman cannot work properly without the requisite tcols,
or the painter produce the proper shade without the necessary
colours, in like manner does every person wishing to economize
his food, and to cook it properly, require the proper furniture where-
with to do it. It is to be hoped that these pages, which have cost
me both time and trouble, as well as months of travelling, will be
read by many above the class to whom it is more especially dedi-
cated; and that hereafter kitchen utensils may be considered proper
to give as a wedding present to it couple commencing housekeeping.
Nothing, I am certain, could be given that would be a better pro-
moter of peace and happiness in their home.
In a superior cottage, which, should it consist of four rooms, the
kitchen should be the back one, and not, as is often the case, the
Lone one, made into a kitchen and sitting-room, and the back one a
washhouse and receptacle for dirt, &c. Whilst I am on this subject,
I would remark that, in my opinion, all cottages or houses require, in
this climate, a porch, or second door; it would prevent the continued
draught and blowing in of the rain and dust, and thus avoid a great
deal of illness amongst the inmates, and add greatly to the cleanliness
and comfort of the dwelling; but if built upon H.B.H. Princa
Albert's plan, they do not require it.
The back room should be fitted up with a proper grate, with oven
and boiler, and a copper holding at least six gallons. It should
have the requisite shelves, and a little sink to hold a tub, and with
a tap or pump for water; the latter article I consider the most
essential requisite of a cottager's dwelling: it should possess two
gridirons, one single, one double, a large and small trying-pan, three
black saucepans, holding one gallon, halt gallon, one quart, or a three-
legged black pot, instead of the gallon one, a large iron spoon, a ladle,
two wooden spoons, a wooden bowl, a cullender, a chopper, a large
knife, a baking pan, a rolling pin, a paste brush, a stove brush, two
tin tart dishes, three brown basins, six bread tins or pans.
A more humble abode, possessing two rooms, or perhaps only one,
which latter I disapprove of very much, as there ought to be two in
everydwelling,however small,will perhaps not be able to afford so many
articles of furniture; in which case I would recommend, as being the
most serviceable, the black pot, gridiron, frying-pan, earthen pan, or
bcwl, or spoon, ladle, cullender, chopper, three basins, two tin tart
dishes, baking pan, with oven: with these most ot the receipts in these
pages may be cooked to perfection.
And with the pan, gridiron, and frying-pan, nearly one half of the
receipts may be iL For baking stevving-pan. see Appendix.


17G
CRYSTAL PALACE.
stove, which was made for the wealthy only, and which is now largely
fraternizing with our troops and allies, in the war camps in the east.
This little apparatus will be dedicated to all classes, but more par-
ticularly to the masses, as I think, from the model which I now have
before me, it can be made for a few shillings.
I have already tried many receipts in it, all of which have more
than answered my expectations, copies of them will be printed and
sold with the apparatus. I have made good soup, and dressed fish
and meat of all kinds, as well as vegetables, having also roasted and
baked meat, and made sweet and savoury pastry in it.
In fact, I may say, that in reality it is almost a complete kitchen
in a very small compass, a real petit bijoux de Jamille, not quite so
large as our extensive friend Signor Lablache's favourite hat.
VISIT TO THE CRYSTAL PALACE.
De AitEST Eloise,—I was very much disappointed on my arrival in
London that you were unable, through illness, to meet me at the station, as I need not tell you how charmed I should have been to
embrace you, after nearly fifteen months' absence, and verbally thank
you for your more than punctual correspondence.
My first visit, after my arrival in this monster metropolis, was
far from being a mournful one, such as I have been used to in my
rusticating rambles. No, my dear, I had seen all its "dark side"
of life before. It was to that fairy land and palace at Sydenham,
which, in my estimation, is a continuation of the "Arabian Nights."
It would be impossible for me to describe this wonder of the nineteenth
century. I might almost say that it would be giving to every one a
description of his own property, as it is the People's Palace; and,
no doubt, every one will, if possible, go as often as convenient to get
a sight of his own property, when they will be as charmed as I was.
If I cannot serve as a cicerone, as far as regards the beauties of the
building, yet there is one department which ho visitor can enter
without the permission of the grand major-domo, or by the sanction
of the chef-de-cuisine. I mean the victualling department and cellars
of this gigantic place. The annals of gormandizing never told such a
talc as is here, daily witnessed; never were.provisions better selected
and more carefully managed than by Mr. Home, the well-known and
talented director of this department.
The cooking is most ably conducted by Mr. Fidler, late of the
Reform Club, and pupil of Mr. Soyer. "A large number of cooks,
under his care and guidance, are daily erecting pyramids of food,
from the most recherche dish to the huge mountain of viands, to
satisfy the craving appetites of the thousands who daily visit this seat
of intellect. Napoleon the First had a saying, that it is the stomach


A VISIT TO THE CRYSTAL PALACE.
177
which governs the world: truly it is; for, to see the thousands who
are daily faring before a most sumptuous buffet, at once gives an
air of truth to the great warrior's maxim. And these refreshments,
supplied as they are at a reasonable price, are sure to attract the
attention of the dainty public, and cannot fail being both beneficial to
shareholders and partakers.
I must not omit to mention one of the most interesting depart-
ments of the building, which is the manufacture of aerated waters,
where thousands of grosses of bottles are daily filled in a most artistic
manner, under the direction of Mr. Cox, whose new beverages, as you
doubtless recollect, were so much appreciated at the Exhibition of
1851. Being in a room where a private dinner was to take place for
twenty persons, I was charmed with the beautiful appearance pre-
sented by a pyramid of choice fruits, which on inquiry I ascertained
was supplied by no less a person than the prize fruiterer, as he is
called at the fruit shows, Mr. Lewis Solomon, of Covent Garden.
In the monster kitchen all the latest culinary improvements seem
to have been placed, and are daily in use. The one that carries off the
palm, in my estimation, is a beautiful gas roasting apparatus, designed
and patented by Messrs. Deaue and Dray, of London-bi?dge. It is
internally lined with red bricks, which reflect a great heat on the
object roasting. Tons of meat and thousands of fowls have been
already dressed in it. For Gas Cooking, see page 90.
Good Pickling for Beef and Park,,—Put in a pan or tub five
pounds of salt, three ounces of saltpetre, half a pound of brown sugar,
for a joint weighing from ten to twelve pounds, rub it well with
the above mixture three or four times, letting it remain in pickle for
a week; it is then ready for cooking: half an ounce of peppercorns;
or a few aromatic herbs, will vary the flavour.
Hound of beef, edgebone, breast, flanks, or ox tongnes, are the pieces generally salted; small legs, shoulders, and belly of pork, pig's
cheek and feet the same. Time your pickling according to size. For
plain pickling, omit the sugar and saltpetre.
NEW WAY OF MAKING BEEF TEA.
Cut a pound of solid beef into small dice, which put into a stew-
pan, with two small pats of butter, a clove, a small onion sliced, sad two saltspoonfuls of salt; stir the meat round over the fire for ten
minutes, until it produces a thickish gravy, then add a quart of boil-
ing water, and let it simmer at the corner of the fire for half an hour,
skimming off every particle of fat; when done pass through a sieve.
I have always had a great objection to passing broth through a cloth,
as it frequently spoils its flavour.
The same, if wanted plain, is done by merely omitting the vege-
tables and clove: the batter cannot be objectionable, as it is taken
out in skimming; pearl-barley, vermicelli, rice, &c., may be served
in it if required. A little leek, celery, or parsley may be added.


APPENDIX.
179
proportion of fat and lean. By this method, you can cut enough
for ten to twelve persons, whereas by the other way you only get
enough for four or five.
For leg of lamb or pork proceed as for mutton, and for loin,
ribs, breast, or neck of either, proceed as above, having previously
divided it with a saw, which greatly facilitates the carving of these
joints.
Dear Eloise,—Since I sent you the receipt for my new pan, I
perceive that very little fat is required with any meat done in it.
In the event of stewing fat meat or tripe (which is sometimes un-
avoidable), I first, before sending it to the table, remove the fat
which rises to the top with a spoon.
I must say that the more I use the pan the better I like it. I
have had it registered and they are now being manufactured in large
quantities by Messrs. Deane and Dray, King William-street, City,
and will doubtless be before the public in a few weeks. Fat
description, see page 69.


SOYER'S BAKING STEWING PAN.


180
APPENDIX

SEMI-IIOASTING IN THE BAKING STEWING PAN.
This cut represents a tin pan in which a pudding is placed, and on
the trivet a joint of beef, previously boned; it is suspended from the
inside. Potatoes may be baked round the meat, without interfering
with the pudding. The pans will consist of three different sizes;
namely, one to hold two quarts, one four, and the other six. Lean
meat is preferable to fat for semi-roasting in the baking stewing pan.

ALARUM, OR COOKING CLOCK.
By the aid of this little alarum the housewife will be able to time her joints, pies, and puddings, to an instant.
By winding it up and setting the hand back, starting from twelve,
to the time required for the article to cook. Say it is one, and your
joint is to be done at three,—move the hand to ten, wind up the
spring, and place the box on the table, giving at the time an impul-
sion to the pendulum.
N.B. The fire must be of a proper heat, or your joint will be either
under or over-done. They are to be purchased at No. 46, King William Street, City.


1S2
APPENDIX.
the water in which the vegetables have been boiled, a quantity of the
material, which by accident might be left in the pot—thereby
eloping up the drain, to the annoyance of the household. To be had
of Messrs. Deane & Dray, King William Street, City.
DIRECTIONS FOR USE.
Fit the perforated pan inside the saucepan, half fill it with water,
add two teaspoonluls of salt, and when the water boils put in your
greens, or whatever else you may cook. Let it boil fast until tender,
then lift out the perforator by the handles, and with the crusher
press lightly the water out, and serve.
To boil pork, bacon, or salt beef, with greens:—When any of these
are half done, put in your greens, using only half the quantity of
salt; when ready, dish up the meat, press the broth out, which save,
for soup for the next day's use. (See Soups.)
This represents a model of a
Chimney Screw-jack for suspend-
ing joints to. Its cost is very
trifling, and may be purchased
at any ironmonger's. It will
fit on any mantel-shelf; and it
enables the joint to be shifted
nearer or further from the fire,
as occasion requires.
I have ordered a small tin-
screen which folds in three, and
will occupy only a small space
before the fire, which will greatly
increase the heat when in use. I
cannot give a cut of it in the
present edition, as I have not yet
received the drawing.



SOYER'S KITCHEN FOR THE ARMY.
During the period of the famine in Ireland, I took with me a portable
kitchen, and erected it opposite the Royal Barracks in Dublin, and with
which I cooked and delivered rations for 26,600 persons daily.
Having last year taken a peep at the camp at Chobham, as well ae the
,camp at Satory in France, and seeing, by the ordinary manner in which
the provisions for the different messes were cooked, even in France, that a
large amount of nutriment of the food was lost, it occurred to me that, if a
moveable kitchen could be made to travel with the army, it would be exceed-
ingly useful, whilst on the march, or when encamped.
The following is an explanation of the above kitchen:
The carriage is made of sheet-iron, weighing, with water, fuel, &c, a
little more than one ton. The lower part consists of acircular steam boiler,
and the upper part of an oven. Over the oven are placed the various pans
containing the rations required to be cooked by steam, and on each side is
a hanging shelf, which will also hold steam saucepans in front, and round
the driver's seat is a reservoir for water, and a place to hold the condiments, &c.
The plan of working it would be to draw it near to a stream or reservoir
of water—if brackish or muddy it does not matter*—there fill the boiler
and reservoir, and remove it to any convenient spot. The fuel may con-
sist of wood, coal, turf, &C. &C. Within one hour after the fire is lighted
the steam would be up, and the oven hot, and with one six feet long and
three feet wide, rations for 1000 men could be cooked by baking and
steaming in about two hours, and the apparatus moved on again, or it
would cook whilst on the march, if on an even road.
Its advantages are, saving of time, labour, men, and food, and the cer-
tainty that the men could get their food properly cooked.
The cost of each apparatus would not exceed 1002.
* Any tainted water is made good by first converting It into
N


INDESv
185
Calf a feet jelly. . . .35s
„ head .... s7
„ heart .... 125
„ liver, semi-fried . 147,190
H „ and heart . . 143
„ heart, stewed . , . 1s0
„ tails . . . .1s7
M tongue,head,&c. pudding 243
Cheesecakes .... 329
Chemistry of food, p. 5
Chickens, see Poultry
Hoping of I . . , 449
Choice of meat, &C., p. 170
Coffee 440
„ original hints on . 466
Cold meats . . . 161,166
Coloured water . . 453a
Crab, see Shell-fish.
Cream, Bohemian . . . 356
„ Devonshire . . . 443
„ pastry . . . 3s7A
„ velvet .... 371
„ white .... 357
Croquettes,rice . . . 372
Crust, fruit . . . .327
Cottage roasting, p. 90
f ignorance of the poor
in, p. 46
Currant-jelly . . . 464b
Curry, fish . . . .s9
„ rabbit .... 205
„ tripe . . . 165A
„ meat .... 159
Custard, coffee and chocolate . 362
„ farm .... 365
„ plain .... 361
„ pic-dish, in . . . 863
„ gooseberry fool . .36s
t see Lamb, Mutton, Veal
Cheese stirabout . . .93
Carthusian of meat and vege-
tables . . . 111—114
Dinner, our Christmas . . s5
Dish, an improved baking, p. 94
Dkinks :—
Apple, &C. . . 467—473
Dough 340
Dumplings,apple . 347A, 34s
„ lemon . . . 347
„ nursery fruit . . 32s
„ simple suet . . 349
Eggs, on, p. 115
„ to ascertain if fresh . 300
„ ancients on, p. 115
Eggs.boiled, plain .
„ boil, to .
n n for toast
„ baked
„ bacon and
„ convent fashion
„ mixed
„ omelette, or fraise
n ,, with herbs
» „ bacon
n • » ,■ oysters
shell-fish .
n omelette, sweet
» H preserves
,» n spirit
„ poached .
H sausages , ,
301
302
303
304
807
30s
806
810
811
813
and
s7
208
8s
21.
Feet, calves . ,
„ pig's
„ sheep's .
Fish :—
How to boil all kinds, p.
How to boil sliced
New way
To cook in oven .
„ „ Lesson No. 1
Fried, Jewish fashion
Fresh water, p. 23
Fried, p. 26
How to ascertain when done, p. 21
Brill 52
. 313
. 314
314A
. 315
. 305
. 309
Cod . .
„ liver
„ sounds and melt
„ hard roe
Codlings
Conger eel .
Curry .
Eels, dried .
„ fresh .
„ fried .
„ stewed.
Flounders
Fritters
Gurnets
Hallibut
„ Jewish fashion
„ in oil
Hake .
Haddock
Herring, red.
„ fresh
Ling .
Mackerel
57
103—110
62, 66, 102
101
222
61, 66, 222
. s9
. 49
50, 59
. 71
9s—100
. 47
. 161
67, 222
66, 222
. 75
. 77
62, 66
40, 62, 222
. 3s
89, 71,220
62, 66,222
42, 43, 44, 45
in baking stewpan 220


186
INDEX. Fish—(continued.)
Mackerel, in pic-dlsh
. 60
„ pickled .
. 70
Pilchard
. 221
Plaice .
00,67, 74
Salads .
. 440
Salmon, salted
. 4s
„ fresli
. 54
Salt
. 57
Small, to cook
. 4s
Sance .
45, 413
Soles
72, 73, 47
Sprats .
. 221
Tench .
. 5s
Turbot .
. 53
Whiting
. 01
In baking stewpan:
. 21s
Pieces of in ditto .
. 219
Eels ditto:
. 223
Puddings
. 25G
„ plainer .
. 257
„ mackerel
. 258
„ eel
. 259
Pies .
. 266
Fritters .
161—163
Fruits :—
„ damson
. 3s4
Apple, buttered .
. 3s3
„ fritters
. 3«1
„ cake .
392, 386
„ drinks
487—473
„ rice water .
. 470
„ stewed, Nos. 1, 2,
3 . 3s4
„ sauce .
. 414
Currant jelly
484B
Fritters
16-1—103
Various, stewed . .
. 3s4
Frying, on, p. 55
„ pan, p. 4s
Pry, semi.
. 13G
„ Lessons on
140, 141
Game:—
Hare, toad in the hole .
. 215
„ jugged
. 210
„ „ marinaded.
. 217
I/arks .
. 215
Partridge and cabbage pud-
ding ....
. 254
Eabbits, large Dutch .
. 204
Rabbit, semi-roasted
. 212
„ toad in the hole.
. 215
„ pudding
. 251
„ pie .
. 265
M boiled . .
. s4
„ semi-fried . ■
. 153
Same—( continued.)
Itabbit curry . 90S
„ plain, for invalids . 206
Rook, young, pudding . . 255
Giblets 26
Gridiron, what I can cook with
my, p. 17
Haddocks, see Fish
Ham, important observations
on, p. 32 . . .s2
Herbs, sweet, bunch of . . 451
Imagination, effect of, p. 63
Irish stew .... 1s1
Iron pot, three-legged, introduc-
tion to, p. 29
Jam ..... 464a
Jelly .... 484b
„ isinglass and gelatine . 355
„ calfs-fcot. .' . . 35s
„ orange . . . . 359
„ lemon . 36V
Kidneys, broiled . . . 134
„ ox . . 177'—179
pudding . . .246
Kitchen requisites . . .174
Lamb, p. 33
„ boiled leg of:
. S3
„ chop
. 126
„ choice of, p. 171
„ curry
. 159
„ fry . . .
. 149
„ head , .
115, 194
„ heart .
. 125
„ kidneys
. 134
„ leg
. . W*
„ neck
. 19*
„ roasted, semi
. 210
„ baked .
. 231
„ tongue, head, and
feet
pudding .
. 249
„ roasting, time for .
. 231
Larding .
. 450
Liver; ox . „
96, 244
„ cod .
104—109
„ „ staffing
. 459
„ „ balls .' .
. 460
„ calves' . 147, 14s,
190, 244
„ lamb's
244,245'
„ stuffing .
. 457
Mackerel, see Fish


INDEX.
Macaroni 403
Meats, a series of receipts on ., 9S
Marketing, on, p. 170
Meal, Indian poulenta . 91, 95
Meat, boiled, cold, and broiled
130, 226
curry .... 159
„ fritters . . . 161, 162
„ minced . . . 156, 15s
„ bashed . . • 15sa
„ remains of cold . . 166
„ puddings. . . . 233
,, in baker's oven, p. 93
„ toad in the hole . .215
„ Carthusian . Ill—114
Mussels, 445, see Sauce
Mushrooms .... 443
Mutton :—
„ boiled . . . .81
„ chops . . . 120, 121
„ cutlets .... 142
„ ehoice of at market, p. 171
„ puddmg . . . 247
„ ragout of . . 97a
n remains of . . . 16s
„ ragout, brown, of . . 1ss
„ roasted, semi . . 20s
„ roasting,on. . 230, 232
4
Omelettes, seo Eggs
Onions, to chop . . . 449
Of, baker's meat, p. 93
Ox cheek . . . .115
„ „ toad in the hole . . 215
„ heart. . . 125,177,179
„ tail 176
„ kidneys .... 177
„ liver, 1st Lesson on . . 155
„ tongue, potted and braized. 1s4
„ „ fresh and pickled . 1s5
„ tripe, curried . . 165A
„ „ pickled . . . 165
» „ Lyons way . . 164
„ ,, toad in the hole . 165
„ „ sauted or semi-fried,
s6, 1 Box
Pancake
Paste, puff
„ „ half
„ „ another
„ „ plainer
„ „ short
. „ pudding
Pastry, on, p. 119
Fruit .
. 3s0
315a
. 31G
316A
. 317
, 31s
. 319
320, 321, 323
Pastry—(continued.)
Plain puff
Small .
Pease pudding
„ Canada .
Pickles
Pies, how to make.
n
introduction, p. 126
n
artisan's pie .
. 26s
n
beefsteak
. 262
„
family .
. 263
veal
. 264
pork
. 264
,,
fish .
. 266
,,
hare . . .
. 26T
»,
rabbit .
. 265
„
poor man's
. 269
kidneys .
134, 146
»,
heart
125, 1s0
liver
. 213
„
brain and tongue
. 242
323A
. 322
. 454
. 92
. 465
120
Useful hints on the sucking-pig,
p. s3
Poached eggs, see Eggs
Pork, to choose, p. 171
„ with apples . . 196,197
„ bladebone . . . 215
„ chops . . . 124, 145
„ curry .. ... 169
„ hashed . . . 15sA
„ leg, baked, p. 95
„ pie 264
„ pudding .... 250
„ salt . . 19s—201
„ toad in the hole . .216
„ beef, and vegetables,
Carthusian . . . Ill
„ boiled . . . .79
12s
129
146
209
. 150
. 254
. 154
150, 151
. 161
135, 152
. s5
. 211
. 211
. 232
252, 253
„ black puddings
„ sausages and kidneys
„ semi-roasted .
Poultry
To choose, p. 173
Chicken pudding .
Devilled
Ducks, p. 173
Fowls .
Fritters
Geese, p. 173
Pigeons
Turkey, boiled
„ roasted
„ semi-roasted
Roasting •
Pudding . .


PUBLISHED BY GEORGE ROTJTLEDGE AND CO.
5
TEXAS—NEW MEXICO—CALIFORNIA.
In 2 vols, royal 8vo, cloth extra, Ms., BARTLETT'S PERSONAL NARRATIVE of EXPLO-
RATIONS and INCIDENTS in TEXAS, NEW MEXICO, CALI-
FORNIA, &C. &C. With numerous Illustrations, a Map, &c.
<fMr. Bartlett, the United States' Commissioner—connected with the Mexican
and United States Boundary—has here produced two extraordinary volumes, which
will be the standard work of reference on those countries that are described. The
illustrations are numerous, and add to the beauty of the work."—The Athen&um,
ROUTLEDGE'S SERIES OF HUMOROUS BOOKS.
UNIFORM WITH "VERDANT GREEN," &o.
Now ready, price Is.,
THE ADVENTURES OF SYDENHAM GREEN-
FINCH, as related by his Friend Tom Hawkins; and pathetically,
comically, and outrageously Illustrated by McConnell. With a New
Fancy Cover.
Also, uniform in size with "Sydenham Greenfinch,"
BY THE AUTHOR OF "SINGLETON FONTENOY,"
Price Is.,
SAND AND SHELLS. By James Hannay, Author of
"Singleton Fontenoy." With Eight large Illustrations. Printed
Coloured Cover by MoConhell.
FUN; Edited and Illustrated by Alfred Crowqtjill.
Price Is., Fancy Cover, foolscap 8vo.
"This little book proposes to tell Anecdotes, Jokes, Tales, Rebuses, Repartees,
Yankeyisms, and all sorts of other Funnyisms! the remembrance of only a tithe of
them being enough to set up any purchaser as 'a Funny Man' for the remainder of
his existence."
VALENTINE VOX; by Henry Cockton. Price 2s., in
boards; or, in cloth, 2s. 6d.
r "is one of the most amusing and deeply interesting publications of the day—the
power of an accomplished Ventriloquist, is well known to be unlimited. This book
abounds with droll scenes, which will keep the most melancholy reader in a side-
aching fit of laughter as long as he holds the book in his hands—it is worthy of Charles
Dickens himself."


OMISSION.
I perceive, my dear Eloise, that the various receipt* for
dressing sprats in a plain way, are minus in the previous editions,
as far as the 60th thousand of our very successful Uncle Tom's
Kitchen, as our'publisher, Mr. Eoutledge, calls it,—nearly sixty
thousand books having been sold in less than six weeks. Let
us, therefore, be grateful to the public, and give them the omitted
receipts, which I assure you I had in my original manuscript, but
which I have in vain endeavoured to fish out of the book. Being
food, and good food for the million, when properly dressed, it is
most important that these simple receipts should be immediately
introduced in this, the 70th thousand, and more especially as those
silvery stars of the ocean are daily expected to pay their annual
visit to "terra firma," and that on the next Lord Mayor's Day
everybody will probably be in a good "moon" to partake of
them. And most heartily do I join the opinion of the numerous
friends of the late celebrated alderman, when I say that the
Citizen Kingship of London has never, and never will be,
eclipsed by a better subject of Her Most Gracious Majesty,
Queen Victoria.
1st Lesson. Sprats, Semi-fried.—Wipe gently with a cloth
a dozen of sprats or more, according to the size of your frying-
pan, which requires to be very clean; place it for a minute or
two on the fire, to get hot through; sprinkle in it about half a
teaspoonful of salt to every dozen of middle-size fish, which place
immediately in the pan: leave them for two minutes, turn care-
fully with the blade of a knife, leave them three or four minutes


OMISSIOK.
longer, and serve very hot. To serve them on a napkin is pre-
ferable.
Addition.—About a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, or a
little Cayenne; also the juice of lemon, or a drop of vinegar, is
a pleasing variation.
2nd.—Dip each sprat in flour, put in the pan a little fat, or
oil; when very hot, put in the fish, which semi-fry as above.
They may also be lightly covered with egg and bread-crumbs—
or use sifted biscuit, which is a very agreeable variety of dressing
them.
Another way.—Put them in a tin, with a little lard, oil, or
butter, salt and pepper, into the oven. They will take about
double' the time doing, and will not require turning, which is
important. Serve in the tin. You may add chopped parsley
and a little lemon, Ms. To broil.—Take a skewer long enough to hold a dozen sprats;
dip them lightly in flour; put the gridiron on as clear a fire as.
possible, and when hot lay them on for two minutes; turn them
carefully, leave them till done, sprinkle with salt and pepper,
and serve.
Sprat Toast just strikes me.—Take a piece of bread nice and
crisp, butter it over; add salt, pepper, and a little mustard, and
dish the sprats on it.
Sandwich.—Put another similar slice over, cut in four, and
serve. You may add to any of the above receipts a little
Harvey's sauce, Chili vinegar, Soyer's relish, or any mild sauce.
A little Anchovy paste on the toast would be an improvement.


THE PERFECT SUBSTITUTE FOR SILVER.—
THE REAL NICKEL SILVER, introduced twenty years
ago by WILLIAM S. BURTON, when plated by the patent pro-
cess of Messrs. Elkington and Co., is beyond all comparison the very
best article next to sterling silver that can be employed as such,
either usefully or ornamentally, as by no possible test can it be dis-
tinguished from real silver.
Thread or
Fiddle Brunswiok King's
Pattern. Pattern. Pattern.
Tea Spoons, per dozen 1ss 26s 32s.
Dessert Forks , 80s 40s 46s.
Dessert Spoons „ 30s 42s 4ss.
Table Forks „ 40s 68s 64s.
Tablespoons „ 40s 68s W*.
Tea and coffee sets, waiters, candlesticks, &Q., at proportionate
prices. All kinds of re-plating done by the patent process.
CHEMICALLY PURE NICKEL NOT PLATED.
Fiddle. Thread. King's.
Table Spoons and Forks, full size, per dozen ... IN, ... Ms. ... 30a.
Dessert ditto and ditto 10s. ... 21s. ... 25s.
Tea ditto 6s. ... lis. ... 12a.
/CUTLERY WARRANTED.—The most varied As-
\J sorttnent of TABLE CUTLERY in the world, all warranted,
is on SALE at WILLIAM S. BURTON'S, at prices that are
remunerative only because of the largeness of the sales. 34-inch
ivory-handled table knives, with high shoulders, lis. per dozen;
desserts to match, 10s.; if to balance, Is. per dozen extra; carvers,
4s. per pair; larger sizes, from 14s. Od. to Ms. per dozen; extra fine,
ivory, 32s.; if with silver ferrules, Ms. to 50s.; white bone table-
knives, 7s. 6d. per dozen; desserts, 5s. 6d.; carvers, 2s. 3d. per
pair; black horn table knives, 7s. 4d. per dozen; desserts, 6s.;
carvers, 2s. 6d.; black wood-handled table-knives and forks, 6s. per
dozen; table steels, from Is. each. The largest stock in existence
of plated dessert knives and forks, in cases and otherwise, and of the
new plated fish carvers. Also a large assortment of Razors, Pen-
knives, Scissors, &C., of the best quality.
WILLIAM S. BURTON has TEN LARGE SHOW ROOMS
(all communicating), exclusive of the Shop, devoted solely to the
show of GENERAL FURNISHING IRONMONGERY, (includ-
ing Cutlery, Nickel Silver, Plated and Japanned Wares, Iron and
Brass Bedsteads), so arranged and classified that purchasers may
easily and at once make their selections.
Catalogues, with Engravings, sent (per post) free. The money
returned for every article not approved of.
39, OXFORDSTREET (corner of Newman-street), Nos. 1, 2,
and 3, NEWMAN-STREET, and 4 and 5, PERRY'S-PLACE.
Established a.d. 1S20.


TEAS AND COFFEES AT MERCHANTS' PRICES.
Families, Schools, and Large Establishment! generally,
will find great advantages in purchasing Teas,
Coffees, and Colonial Produce of
PHILLIPS AND COMPANY
. TEA MERCHANTS,
8, KINGWILLIAM-STREET, CITY, LONDON.
BLACK TEAS.
Strong Congou Tea 2s. Qd., 2s. 3d., 2». lOd.
Fine Rich Congou Tea 3s. Od. Recommended.
Rich Souchong Tea 3s. 2d. Recommended.
Best Imperial Souchong Tea 3*. id.Strongly recommended.
Best Laps an a Souckong Tea 3s. 8d. Strongly recommended.
BEST ASSAM PEKOE SOUCHONG TEA 4*. Od. Very strongly recom-
mended. This Tea is of peculiar and extraordinary strength,
GREEN TEAS.
Strong Green Teas, with flavour 3*., 3*. Ad., 3*. 8d■
Prime Moyune Gunpowder 4*. Od. Recommended.
The Best Moyune Gunpowder 4*. 4d. Recommended.
Trce Peam, Gunpowder 4m. M.Recommended.
The Best Pearl Gunpowder 5s. Od. Recommended*
The Mixed Teas, at 3s. 8d. and 4*. per lb., are now very superior Teas,
and are strongly recommended.
COFFEE, WARRANTED PURE.
The Best Plantation Coffee, Is. Od.: the Best Costa Rica Coffee, It. 2d,; the Best
West India Coffee, l*. 14.; the Boat Mocua Coffee, Is. 4d. per lb.
COLONIAL PRODUCE AND SPICES.
Arrow Root, 8d.t 10d., ls.t Is, 2d.t and Is. 4d. Sago, 3d. and 4d.; Large Sago, 5d.
Tapioca, 6d.; Best, N.Tous les Mois, Qd.; Best, 8d. Macaroni, Naples, 8d.
Italian Macaroni and Vermicelli, lOd. Semolina, Qd. and 8d. MiUett, 4d. and 5d.
Bice, 2d., 2\d.t 3d. and 4d.; Best, 4\d. Scotch Barley, 2\d. Pearl Barley, 3d.
Cloves, l*. 3d. and 1*. Qd.; Best 2s. per lb. Nutmegs, 4a. Qd. and 5s.; Best,
6*. Ad.Mace, 4*. Qd.; Best, 5*. Cinnamon, 3*.; Best, 3*. Qd. Ground Cinnamon,
4*. Cassia, Ir, M.;Ground, Is. Qd. Black Pepper, Best, 1*. and Is. 2d. White
Pepper, Lr. Ad.;Best, 1*. 8d. Cayenne, Best, 2s. Ginger, Qd., 10d., Is., la. 4d.,
Is. 8d.t and 2s.; Best, 2s. 4d. Mustard, 5d., Qd., 7d.t 10c/., and Lt.; Best Mustard in
England, lg. Ad.(packed in tin foil.)
SUGAR.
For the convenience of their numerous customers, PHILLIPS & Co. supply
Haw Sogar at Ad., 4faL, and 54. per lb. Refined Sugae, at 5d.t 5%d., and Qd.
PHILLIPS & Co. send all goods CARRIAGE FREE, by their own vans, within
eight miles of No. s, King William-street, City, and send Teas, Coffees, and Spices,
CARRIAGE FREE TO ANY RAILWAY STATION OR MARKET TOWN
IN ENGLAND, if to the value of 40*. or upwards.
A. general Price Current is published every month, containing all the advantages of
the London Maekets, and is sent free by Post on application to
PHILLIPS AND COMPANY, TEA MERCHANTS,
8, KING WILLIAM STREET, CITY, LONDON.
V Samples of Tea and Coffee are also open for inspection in
Case No. 5, in the South-East Gallery of the Crystal Palace.
Post Office Orders should be made payable to PHILLIPS & COMPANY. Chief
Omce, London. 9


RADLEY'S HOTEL
Jfcr Jfatmlies airtr fatletwn,
BRIDGE STREET, BLACKFRIARS,
LONDON.
French and German Spoken.
BACON'S CENTRAL HOTEL,
(ADJOINING THE FREEMASONS' TAYERN,)
GREAT QUEEN STREET,
LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS.
This Hotel will be found most advantageously situated for parties
visiting London, either upon business or pleasure, being in the
centre of the Metropolis, quiet, airy, and replete with every
comfort.
THE CHAEGES ARE MODERATE, AND INCLUDE ATTENDANCE.
4


DR. DE JONGH'S
LIGHT BROWN COD LIVER OIL.
PREPARED FOR MEDICINAL USE IN THE LOFFODEN ISLES, NORWAY,
AND PUT TO THE TEST OF CHEMICAL ANALYSIS.
The most Effectual Remedy for Consumption, Bronchitis,
Asthma, Gout, Chronic Rheumatism, and all
Scrofulous Diseases.
APPROVED OP AND RECOMMENDED BY
BERZELIUS, LIEBIG, WOHLER, JONATHAN PEREIRA, FOUQUIER,
And numerous other distinguished Scientific Chemists.
Prescribed by the most eminent physicians, and supplied to the leading hospitals of
Europe.
Specially rewarded with medals by the Governments of Belgium and the Netherlands.
Has almost entirely superseded all other kinds on the Continent, in consequence of
its proved superior power and efficacy—effecting a cure or alleviating symptoms
much more rapidly.
Contains iodine, phosphate of lime, volatile acid, and the elements of the bile—in
short, all its most active and essential principles—in larger quantities than the
pale oils manufactured in England and Kewioundland, deprived mainly of these
by their mode of preparation.
EXTRACTS FROM OPINIONS OF THE MEDICAL JOURNALS.
"The LANCETS July 29, 1854.
"After a careful examination of the different kinds of Cod Liver Oil, Dr. de Jongb
gives the preference to the light-brown oil over the pale oil, which contains scarcely
any volatile fatty acid, a smaller quantity of iodine, phosphoric acid, and the elements
of bile, and upon which ingredients the efficacy of Cod Liver Oil no doubt partly de-
pends. Some of the deficiencies of the pale oil are attributable to the method of its
preparation, and especially to its filtration through charcoal. In the preference of thetight brown over the pale oil we fully concur.
"We have carefully tested a specimen of the Light BrownCod Liver Oil, prepared
for medical use under the direction of Dr. de Jongh, and obtained from the wholesale
agents, Messrs. Ansar, Harford, andCo., 77, Strand. We find it to be genuine, and
rich in iodine and the elements of bile"
"The MEDICAL CIRCULAR," May 10, 1854.
*;Much of the pale oil sold in the market is found to be nothing more than skate*
oil,—a fact which will account for the failures which have be frequently attended the
use of the so-called cod oil. The utmost reliance may be placed upon the experi-
mental researches of Dr. de Jongb, who is one of the most eminent of European
chemists; the oil procured by him enjoys also the additional sanction of the opinion
of Baron Liebig and the late Dr. Pereira, in favour of its genuineness and efficacy.
Our own experience practically confirms their judgment, and we unhesitatingly recom-
mend the light brown oil as the best for medical purposest and well deserving the con-
fidence of the profession,"
Sold wholesale and retail, in bottles, labelled with Dr. De Jokgh's stamp and
signature, by
ANSAR, HARFORD, 4k Co., 77, STRAND, X. ON DON,
Sole Consignees and Agents for the United Kingdom and British Possessions, at the
following prices :—
Balf-Pints, 2s. 6d.; Pints, 4s. 9d.; Quarts, 9s.,
XIKPERIAXi MEASURE.
*** Four half-pint bottles forwarded, CARRIAGE PAID, to any part
of England,on receipt of a remittance of Ten Shillings*



CROSSE AND BLACKWELL,
PURVEYORS IN ORDINARY TO HER MAJESTY,
RESPECTFULLY invite attention to the following
RICH SAtTCES and CONDIMENTS, which with the various
other delicacies they have for many years enjoyed so high a preference
for, can be obtained of most respectable Sauce Vendors and Italian
Warehousemen in the United Kingdom, and at the principal Stores
throughout the world.
Royal Table Sauce. — A new Sauce, of a peculiarly
delicious and piquant flavour, first introduced in 1847. It has received
universal commendation from the best judges, and is in very general
use at the tables of the nobility, and the principal clubs. To those
who prefer a rich warm sauce, it may be confidently recommended as
the best ever yet produced. Sold in bottles, at Is. 6d. and 2s. 6d.
each; and in handsome China vases, to be placed on the table, at
3s. each.
SohO Sauce.—The flattering reception this Sauce has met
with from the most distinguished epicures, warrants the proprietors
in recommending it as the best of its kind extant. It is composed of
a variety of ingredients, which are all so thoroughly amalgamated
that, while its piquancy is extraordinary, no decided flavour can be
said to predominate, for fish, game, steaks, and made dishes, this
is a most desirable sauce.
Essence of Anchovies.—To produce this well known
and justly esteemed Sauce, C. and B. use none but the finest picked
Gorgona Anchovies, of which they annually import large supplies
for this express purpose. It is necessary to state this, as the fact is
notorious that much of the sauce vended under this name is made
om Sardines, and an inferior description of Sicilian fish, against
hich purchasers cannot be too strictly on their guard.
Dinmore's Essence of Shrimps.—This Sauce is used
for the same purposes as the Essence of Anchovies, but being con-
siderably milder, is preferred by many. It is prepared by C. and B.
at their special factory on the sea-coast, and the true flavour of the
shrimp being retained, the Sauce is rendered most delicious.
It is an excellent relish with boiled and fried fish of every descrip-
tion.
Sir Robert Peel's Sauce, for generat, purposes.—
o'


SMITH & PHILLIPS,
GAS ENGINEERS AND PATENTEES
OF
lljpraius for ftalinj, toting,
AND
55, SKINNER STREET, SNOW HILL,
And 5, WEST SMITHFIELD,
Having invented and secured by Her Majesty's Royal Letters
Patent the most valuable, economic, and useful Apparatus for
Seating, Cooking, and Ventilating by Gas, beg to invite the
Public to an inspection of the same, resting assured that every
prepossessed prejudice against the cleanliness, comfort, and eco-
nomy in the use of Gas, for the above-named purposes, will, after
a single inspection, cease to exist.
So many unsuccessful attempts having been made to form Heating
and Cooking Apparatus worthy the attention of Men of Science, and the Culinary Art, and all these attempts having been lauded
by the Inventors (or rather imitators, for they have all imitated
the same defective system of construction) as being perfect, it
would be useless to theorize on the subject, and thereby leave the
Public in doubt, by permitting them to add this invention to the
list of useless cooking and heating apparatus. The Patentees
therefore invite the most prejudiced and the most scientific portion
of the Public to have a practical proof, by seeing the apparatus in
action, feeling convinced that, as others have done, they will
return with a conviction of the positive utility of the invention,
and the truth of being able to cook and heat by Gas, without
producing any pernicious effects, and giving an immense economy
over the old systems of heating and cooking hitherto employed.
DESCBIPIIOIT.
The apparatus Fig. 1, so highly appreciated by Mons. Soter, (who cer-
tainly is eminently qualified to judge of the practical utility of this apparatus,
as being equally well adapted for the cooking of the varied French dishes,
as for the more substantial English ones,) is acknowledged, by the best
judges in gas matters, to stand unrivalled.
It is a boon, alike to the consumers and makers of gas; to the former in
economizing the quantity burnt; and to the latter, by creating a means of a
general daily consumption, instead of a partial use, and thereby compen-
sating, in a great measure, by an increased demand, the reduction recently
made in that important article. In this apparatus it should be understood
that the burner under the boiler is so conveniently arranged, that it can be
turned out for the purpose of lighting; thus precluding the possibility of
explosion ever taking place, an inconvenience to which all previous gas
apparatus for cooking are liable. This system is evidently of the utmost
importance, as a meansof preventing accidents,and also gives an opportunity,
if necessary, of cleaning the burner with great facility. In fact, the whole
of the apparatus is truly simple and convenient, possessing the advantages of
ROASTINO, 3TEAMING, BOILING, BAKING, BROILING, FRYING, STEWING, &C, with
a certainty of perfect ventilation and comrustion, and a cleanliness
incredirle to all who have only seen defective cooking apparatus. All this
is carried on with an astonishing certainty and regularity; the heat operating



qtiallv on every portion of the meat, all clmnce of burning Is avoided, and
its nutritious qualities are preserved; add to this the great advantage of
being able to retard the serving of a dinner by regulating the cock of the
burner, so as to allow only a sufficiency of heat to keep the meat warm.
The meat withdrawn from the apparatus, the fire is at once extinct, and the
expense ceases. These are the advantages which it is impossible to obtain
from any coal fire without incurring an enormous expense, and have been
sufficient to cause the above-named gentleman (Mons. Soyer) to report that
the cooking apparatus manufactured by SMITH & PHILLIPS is the only
PERFECT ONE IV USE, and SUCH ONLY WITH WHICH HE WOULD ALLOW niS
name to re connected ; added to which, it has undergone, during several
months, most scrutinizing and severe trials, the result of which has elicited
the flattering encomiums and approbation from the most scientific men and
gas engineers of the present day. The Price of this apparatus, £25 com-
plete. If withoutBoiler and Steam Kettle, £18.
Proprietors op Clcr-Hocses, Inns, and Katino-Hocses are particularly
Invited to see the apparatus in operation, which takes place daily at the
Patentee's Show Rooms, No. f>5, Skinner-street, where its value can be fully
appreciated, and proof given that it requires only to be seen in action to
promote its general adoption.


WHITE, FAIRCHILD, & Co. (continued.)
As a test of this statement, they offer a REWARD of
ONE THOUSAND POUNDS
to any one who can discover the SLIGHTEST ADUL-
TERATION in their
GENUINE PATENT
Concentrated Turkey Coffee.
The extraordinary success which has attended the in-
troduction of these justly celebrated Coffees, has raised a
host of clumsy imitators, who for the sake of immediate
gain, stick at nothing in the shape of Piracy and Fraud,
The Patentees' labels and bills have been closely copied
and circulated to a great extent, and every effort made to
trap the unwary.
WHITE, EAIRCHILD, & CO., beg therefore to
caution the Public against purchasing Coffee otherwise
than of their respective Agents—
WHITE, FAIRCHILD, & CO.,
Patentees,
BOROUGH, LONDON,
LICENSORS FOR ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, WALES,
THE CHANNEL ISLANDS, AND
THE COLONIES.
MANUFACTORY:
107, 108, 109, and 110, BOROUGH, LONDON.


J. E. PIPER,
MANUFACTURER OF ALL KINDS OF
DELICIOUS FRUIT ESSENCES,
No. 9, EGBEMONT PLACE, KING'S CROSS, NEW ROAD, LONDON.
NUMEROUS complaints will be avoided, if all consumers will send
direct to the Maker, where they may depend upon having Essences of superior
Strength and Quality.
J. E. Piper, being the original inventor of these Fruit Essences, wishes to caution
wholesale houses aud consumers generally, against any other articles vended as
genuine—which are only imitations, and in many cases injurious. He supplies the I
'most respectable Wholesale Flaws in all parts of the globe, from whom testimonials
may be seen.
FRUIT ESSENCES.—Jargonelle Pear, Strawberry, Black Currant, Red Currant,
Ripston Pippin, Honey Drop, Pine-Apple, Nectar, Raspberry, Apricot, Peach,
Quince, Greengage, Banana, Cherry, Orleans Plum, Horehound flavour, Barberry,
Mulberry, Gooseberry flavour, Narbonne Honey Drops, Ratafia.
*#* These delicious Fruit Essences are adapted for flavouring Ices, Jellies, Blanc-
manges, Lozenges, Drops, &C., and for making a variety of the most inviting Fruit
Syrups, Effervescent Beverages, &C. &o.
Cautiow.—These Fruit Essences are manufactured only by J. E. PIPER—the
first and original maker in any part of the globe. No ill effects can arise from an
indulgence in them, and they can be obtained genuine at No. 9, Egremont Place,
New Road, King's Cross.
Any other delicious flavour may be obtained at three days' notice, and guaranteed
perfectly harmless. Sample Cases, containing six bottles, 5s. each, with full instruc-
tions how to use them.
KOYAL PANOPTICON of SCIENCE and ART,
LEICESTER SQUARE.
fTHE Building comprises a lar^e circular Hall, 100 feet in
diameter, and 100 feet high, surrounded \jy three Galleries, and surmounted by a
Dome, the whole gorgeously decorated in the Sarucenic style of architecture. The
Exhibition includes a splendid Luminous Fountain, throwing the water 100 feet; a
Crystal Tank, holding 6000 gallons of water, for the display of Messrs. Heinke's
Diving Apparatus, of the Electric light under water, and other subaqueous experi-
ments; a Transparent Screen, 32 feet wide, and MI feet high, for the display of
Dioramic Views, of the Chromatrope. and of other optical effects; a magnificent
Organ, containing 4004 pipes, with the bellows worked by steam power, the richest
and most powerful instrument of its kind in existence, on which a variety of Sacred
and Operatic Music is performed daily at intervals, by Mr. W. T. Best, the Organist
of the Institution; a giga ntic Electric Machine, the largest ever constructed, the plate
ten feet in diameter, with a large Leyden Battery attached, Voltaic Batteries of a high power on a novel principle; and in the two galleries, a variety of machinery and
manufacturing processes in action, including the Nassau Steam Printing Machine,
a complete series of Whitworth s Machinery, Kirby and Beard's Pin and Needle
Machines, Perkins' Apparatus for the Combustion of Steel, Brock's Ornamental
Sawing Machine, Prideaux's Patent Self-closing Furnace Valve, for the prevention of
smoke, &C., an Ascending Carriage, Brett's Electric Telegraph, &c, &c, ; a selection ,
of Sculpture, including Monte's Veiled Figure, "The Houri," executed expressly
for the Institution, a Gallery of Pictures on sale, and other objects of Art. Attached
to the Institution are two Lecture Rooms, in which demonstrations are given several i
times daily, in various branches of Science and Art, and Lectures delivered from;
time to time on Literary and Scientific subjects: a spacious Laboratory and Chemical
School; a Photographic Jtillery, in which portraits are taken. Open daily: Morning,
12 to 5; Evening (Latordayexcepted), 7 to 10. Admission Is: Schools and Children
under 10, half pr.ee.



CLARK'S
PATENT MODERATEUR LAMPS
ARE THE BEST. (
THE
METROPOLITAN LIGHT COMPANY,
447 AND 450, WEST STRAND,
HAVE JUST RECEIVED THEIR SECOND CONSIGNMENT OF
SEVERAL THOUSANDS OF NEW LAMPS,
PRICE £1 Is. EACH, COMPLETE, WITH STANDS.
THE PUBLIC ARE KESPECTFCLLr IHVITED TO AS EARLY IHSFEOTIOS.
Every Lamp guaranteed, & old Lamps exchanged.
CLARK'S PATENT DIAMOND LAMP
Is suitable for general use. It is the most simple and the most
economical of all. This is not asserting more than its merits justify.
No cleaning required for years. Can be had at all prices, and for
every use. Any old Tahlt or Hanging Lamps can be altered to the
Diamond Principle.
Notice to thx Public—Most of the Lam pis ts and Ironmongers throughout
the kingdom are selling a Lamp named the Diamond Carcel Lamp; every one of
these Lamps, from their mechanical arrangement, are defective. The Diamond
Lamp obviates these errors, and affords to the Public unusual satisfaction.—The
Diamond Lamp bears a label with the words " Clabk's Path-nt Diahohd Oil.
Lamp."
THE NEW INDIAN LAMPS
NOW READY FOR SHIPMENT.
Metropolitan Light & Patent Lamp Company,
447, STRAND (Next House to theElectric Telegraph Company),
JOHN CLARK, Resident Proprietor.
Sole Importers of the celebrated American Wax Candles, in
Boxes of 24 lb. each.
Gas Contracts given—First Class Workmen only employed.
15


BULWER LYTTON AND HIS WORKS.
It is not till after the death of an author that any attempt to
compose his biography, or to detail the effect produced by circumstance
and event on his intellectual development and literary career, can
be successfully made—save by the author himself. And in the
following notice we content ourselves with such references to the
life of the writer, as may serve to illustrate the general character of his
works.
Edward Bulwer Lytton is the third and youngest son of the
°°late William Earle Bulwer, of Heydon Hall and Wood Dalling,
oJSorfolk, brigadier-general, one of the four commanding officers to
"~ whom the internal defence of England, at the time of the anticipated
^invasion by Napoleon, was entrusted,—and of Elizabeth, sole heiress
J and representative of the Lyttons of Knebworth, Herts. His two
brothers are both living; the eldest (William) inherited the paternal
'^-estates in Norfolk, and enjoys in private life the reputation of an
i excellent landlord, and an accomplished gentleman. The second,
^who derived from his grandmother a considerable fortune, is the
^-distinguished diplomatist Sir Henry Bulwer, successively Minister
3 Plenipotentiary in Spain, the United States, and the Court of
? Tuscany, Privy Councillor, and Knight Grand Cross of the Order of
j the Bath*
2The name of Bulwer attests the Scandinavian origin of the family
* Author of two able works upon France, as well as of an earlier,
and indeed very youthful publication, called "An Autumn in Greece,"
and of a political pamphlet in favour of the Whigs, which was highly
successful at the time. He sat in Parliament for some years; first for
Coventry, next for Marylebone. His speeches, especially on foreign
affairs, evinced much thought and information. He resigned his seat
on accepting the post of Secretary of Embassy at Constantinople, and
conducted with remarkable ability the negotiations for our commercial
treaty with the Porte.


BULWER LYTTON AND HIS WORKS. IX
which mocked the frivolities it assumed. It gradually became the rage;
its effect, not only in England, but on the Continent, was such as to lay
the foundation for that unsurpassed popularity which the writer has
since obtained and increased.
"Pelham" was rapidly followed up by the "Disowned" and
"Devereux," both of which bore evidence to the rich stores of thought
and poetry, that the new author brought to bear upon fiction. Of
these three works, "Pelham" is at once the most finished as a narra-
tive, the most vigorous in execution, and taking its exuberant wit and
daring originality into account, it must be considered as the most
decided indication of what is rather felt than defined by the word
genius. But the "Disowned," with a more defective narrative and
less sparkling diction, gives glimpses of a much loftier tone of mind, of
greater capacities for pathos, of grander ideals of human character and
the nobler aims of human life. Perhaps, as a contemporary critic
truly remarked, a finer picture of the Christian Stoic than is given to us
in the effigies of the principal hero in the "Disowned," Algernon
Mordaunt, is not to be found in prose fiction; "Devereux," on
the other hand, is more complete and symmetrical as a narrative than
either "Pelham" or the "Disowned." The mystery that pervades
the plot is admirably sustained, and is derived, not from the inferior
sources of external incident, but the complicated secrets of the human
heart. The key to the whole plot is in the true character of Aurrey,
and our reason is satisfied not so much by the probability of the events,
as by the consummate analysis of mind and motive by which the
events themselves grow naturally and inevitably out of the idiosyncrasy
of their agents : nor, apparently episodical as many of the scenes through
which the narrative glides may appear to a superficial view—are they
episodical in fact; all conduce to the development of the design with
which the work was commenced. Nevertheless, "Devereux" is in-
ferior to its predecessors in the essential point of narrative interest, the
style has less charm, the wit is more constrained than in "Pelham,"
and the pathos is less touching and less elevated than that in the
"Disowned."
Our author seems to have been aware, that in these three works
he had exhausted one vein of his intellect. He paused a year,
and struck into a shaft thoroughly fresh and virgin, to which he
has never applied himself again. "Paul Clifford" is a work sui
generis. It is a political and social satire worked out through the
gravest agencies ;—in form, a burlesque—in essentials, a tragedy. The
outline of the original idea, may be found in Gay's "Beggars' Opera,"
and Fielding's "Jonathan Wild," viz, the ironical comparison between
those whom society makes its idols, and those whom it outlaws from its
pale. But both Fielding and Gay limit to this irony the scope of their


X BTJLWER LYTTON AND HIS WORKS.
design. Tn both, the serious is excluded; there are no hints to redeem
and reform the vices jestingly held up to our survey. The humour in
these two masterpieces of travesty, admits no softening gleam or moral
beauty; it is in what the author of "Paul Clifford" adds to the
conception which he takes as his groundwork, that he establishes
the originality of his work, and fixes its interest into the deepest
more of the human heart. To the inferior characters of his tale
his travesty is confined: these group from time to time round the
more prominent characters as the chorus of the ancient drama, relieving
the narrative, or pointing the moral, not serving to the actual denoue-
ment. High above all burlesque upon the false shows of civilized
life, all images of Peaehums and Lockits, towers the grave and earnest
figure of William Brandon. Paul Clifford, the hero, soon enlarges
himself from the proportions of a Captain Macheath; he is not sportive
food for gibbet, he is a human soul to be saved, "Jonathan Wild,"
and the "Beggars' Opera" are works admirably fitted to destroy
hollow conventions and false idols. "Paul Clifford" goes beyond
them in social philosophy, for it not only destroys, but it reconstructs.
It is a satire upon Crime, and never more impressive as a satire than in
its graver parts (as in the character and career of the cynical, sombre,
unprincipled lawyer); but it is also a genial appeal to the conscience
of communities, to adjust our codes to the reform of criminals, as well
as to their punishment. Its purpose here is expressed in the witticism
with which it closes, "The worst use to which you can put a man, is to
hang him." Our author must often have smiled, whether in scorn or
sadness, at the shallow criticisms which represented this work so full of
a cordial philosophy, so marked by elevated benevolence, and so
rounded into the very moral which all our statesmen have since
laboured to shape into Acts of Parliament,—as a vicious representation
of heroes and highwaymen.
After this bold and striking fiction, the author again paused for a
year from prose composition, but he amused himself with throwing off a
poetical jeu d'esprit, called the "Siamese Twins." The result was a
failure ; its satire was not sufficiently broad to strike the public, and its
graver merits were deformed by hasty versification. The experiment
was unfortunate for his after-fame as a poet, since it prejudiced the
press and the public against that fair and serious examination of his
later efforts in poetry, which their subtlety and depth require. But
appended to the "Siamese Twins," was the beautiful poem of "Milton"
(since greatly enlarged and improved in the collected edition of Bul-
wer's poems), to the sweetness and elevation of which the Edinburgh
Review, in condemning the inferior poem that accompanied it, did im-
partial and eloquent justice.
During a visit into Norfolk, our author's interest (as he informs us)


BtTLWEE LYTTON AND HIS WORKS.
all Bulwer's representations of that cold and glittering surface of•
society which the French entitle the beau monde, for m "Pelttam"
whim and satire sometimes betray the young observation of the writer
to the verge of humorous caricature; but in "Godolphin" the
polished portraitures have the repose and delicacy of Mignard and
Lawrence. What, in its way, can be more finished and truthful than
the description of the high-bred cynicism of Saville? or the elegant
effeminacy into which the original genius of Godolphin himself sub-
sides, as the indolence of the epicurean gradually prevails over his
finer nature? Nor must we forget that the two heroines, Constance
and Lucilla, are amongst the most consummate of Bulwer's female crea-
tions; the letter of the last to Godolphin, when she discovers his love
for her lofty rival, has been justly extolled as a chef d'eeuvre of delicacy
and passionate tenderness. In this year, also, was composed one of
the loveliest and most fanciful of this varied catalogue of fiction, viz.,
"The Pilgrims of the Rhine," published first with illustrations. Its
great merits as a literary composition were long only partially recognized
by our public. The enthusiasm it excited in Germany led ultimately to its
appreciation in England. Itseems, indeed, steeped in the very atmosphere
of the scenes it describes; it gathers together, as into a garland of flowers,
the associations, the history, the legends, the romance of the Rhine.
Nothing like it, for the comprehension of the poetical aspects of places
hallowed by tradition, exists in our language; and its originality is so
toned down into familiar sweetness, that it is scarcely detected till we
search for some work with which to compare it, and—find none. This
period appears to have been the most occupied and laborious in our
author's life. Besides the composition of these works, he was not only
the editor, but main contributor to the New Monthly Magazine; he had
entered Parliament, first, as M.P. for St. Ives, afterwards for the city
of Lincoln, was taking an active part in its debates and business, was
the chairman of the Committee for Inquiry into the State of the
Drama, and a member of another committee, among the most impor-
tant and laborious which were ever appointed, viz., that upon the
Government of India, which preceded Lord Grey's India Bill; while
simultaneously he was amassing the variety of information which he
shortly afterwards developed in the brilliant essay upon "England
and THE English." An activity of mind so great had its natural effect
upon the bodily health. Bulwer withdrew from the management of
the New Monthly, which he had undertaken with a view of rendering
it an important political and critical organ, and shortly after the publi-
cation of "England and the English," went for the first time into
Italy. The groundwork of "Rienzi" was traced at Rome, but, as he
tells us, after the completion of the first volume, and on removing to
Naples, it was suspended in favour of "The Last Days of Pompeii,"


3STOWEK LOTION AND HIS 'WOKKS.
loans finds him stern and armed in his robber's camp,—the terrible
chief of the Free Lances.
About this time Bnlwer also composed, and shortly afterwards pub-
lished, the slighter and briefer tale of "Leila, or the Conquest op
GnENADA," to which was appended "Calderon, OB THE Cocrtier."
Both these must be regarded as bold and rapid sketches, by a master-
hand, rather than elaborate and finished performances of careful art.
The investigation of the past, to which our author's mind had been
thus recently directed, appears to have influenced him in the prosecu-
tion of a design first cherished in the cloisters of Cambridge, viz. the
"History op the Rise and Fall op Athens." Two volumes of this
history were now given to the public. Of these we shall speak later,
as well as of the Essays contained in "The Student," and the
author's earliest attempt at the acted drama, "The Duchesse de la
Valliere."
To proceed with the series of prose fictions. Bulwer now turned
into a new direction for materials. He laid aside the dramatic
form of representing narrative, which had been so successful in
"Eugene Aram," and "The Last Bats of Pompeii," and which
had varied the more epic strain of "Rienzi," and, for the first
time, made an experiment of what may be called typical fiction.
Goethe, in " The Apprenticeship of Wilhelm Meister," had conveyed, in
the adventures of a somewhat ordinary youth, the progress and accom-
plishment of poetic art. No doubt this work was in our author's mind
when he undertook the story of "Ernest Maltravers;" and he pro-
bably designed to express his sense of what he here owed to the subtle
genius of Goethe, and to intimate his consciousness that the interior,
or sesthetical intention of his work, would be best understood in Ger-
many when he dedicated the book to the German people. Ernes*
Maltravers, as our author has since taken occasion to show, is the
type of the poetic intelligence, working out its highest ultimate des-
tinies through the scenes and probation of actual life. Alice is not
therefore introduced as the heroine of a mere love story. Alice, in
reality, is the type of the Natural—of the untutored, simple Beau-
tiful—unawakened as yet to the moral sense of vice or virtue—obeying
its own instincts. The three other principal female characters are also
types. Valerie de Ventadour is the fair show of worldly conventional
grace, not devoid of good when fully comprehended on its better side,
but weak against temptation, not capable of retaining permanent
hold even on the senses, not satisfying the higher aspirations of the
soul.
Again, that part of the story which connects Florence Lascelles with
the career of Maltravers, represents to us that stage in the progress
i


xvi BtTLAVEB LYITOW AND HIS WORKS. of the poetic mind, when success and fame attract towards it the
homage of the world,—when its alliance is courted by the rival poten-
tates that rule over the surface of society, wit and beauty, and rank
and wealth. Florence represents them all. But the affection is one-
sided; the poet in the depth of his heart does not return it. Were
the alliance consummated, his destinies would halt incomplete; the
connection therefore ends in disappointment, deceit, and sorrow. The
poet separates himself from the world; he confirms, but somewhat
overhardens, his powers and affections in solitude and musing; a cer-
tain misanthropy grows out of disappointed benevolence. He reappears
again before us in his maturer manhood. This is the second part
(first published under the title of "Alice, or the Mysteries"), fie
stands solitary in the home of his ancestors; and now his heart, long
dormant, is roused and charmed by a new image. Evelyn Cameron
is the ideal of virgin youth, inexperienced in its own emotions, liable
to mistake its own wishes; it knows not yet the noble devotion of true
passion; it stands apart in its fairy-land from the duties and aims of
practical life. In what thus passes between Maltravers and Evelyn
is represented that epoch in the poetic mind when, wearied with the
actual world, the poet yearns for return to his early dreams, seeks
to renew his own youth, and forgets that he cannot regain the former
freshness, nor link inexperienced hope with the memory of errors, and
the fulness of sorrowful knowledge. But the desire itself is a step in
the right direction, though towards the wrong object. Disappointment
awaits the probationer with Evelyn, as it had with Florence; and
we now reach at once the d&noucmmt of the ulterior design, in the
reunion of Maltravers with Alice; that is to say, the restoration of
art to nature,—but art perfected by long experience and severe trial,
and nature awakened from its first ignorance, and kindled to the full
sense of the moral good which lies beneath the Beautiful. Here, too,
the ideal intelligence, long at war with the practical world, is recon-
ciled to it. It embraces duty, not from compulsion, but as an essential
to its happiness. The seeker after the Eleusinian Mysteries has passed
through all the varied probations at the porch, and is fitted to become
a teacher in the temple.
Such, judging from the hints given to us by the author himself in his
various prefaces and in different parts of his work,* as well as from a
* We may here state that in explaining the designs of Bulwer's
fictions we have applied ourselves diligently to what he himself has
said of them in notes or prefaces to their different editions, and have
not scrupled at times to borrow his own words, though enlarging upon
the hints they afford to us.


xviii
BUI/WEB LYTTON AND HIS WORKS. the most generally popular of the author's works; its materials are of
a homelier and coarser kind than many of them ; but their texture is
strong, and their hues brilliant. And in proportion as the work dis-
penses with the more reflective beauties that distinguish "Maltravers,"
it gains as an animated and powerful story of real life. This year,
another signal and triumphant success on the stage, in the production
of "Richelieu, or the Conspiracy," attested the fertility of Bulwer's
genius, and extended the foundations of his fame.
. Next followed "Zanoni," the last and finest of such of our author's
prose fictions as are devoted to the illustration of external life by
symbolical philosophy. As the key to the interior meaning of this
remarkable work has been given by an eminent contemporary writer
(we believe Miss Martineau), and will be found affixed to the
work itself, it would be needless here to enlarge on it. "Zanoni"
is perhaps less liked by the many than the generality of its com-
panions, but it has especial admirers, who rank it above them all.
Independently of the depth and richness of its less visible poetry
and wisdom, it contains passages of tenderness and power, of wild
fancy and sombre grandeur, that irresistibly chain the more imagina-
tive class of readers. We know not, for instance, anything finer of
its kind than the picture of Zanoni and Mejnour standing amidst the
chaos of an unformed world, with the description so true to geological
science, and so poetically impressive in itself, of that half-nebular limbo of struggling matter. But the master-spell of the work is in the
character of the mysterious hero. Other writers had before conceived
the idea of a life prolonged for ages, and enriched by premature know-
ledge; and the character of the mere magician is familiar enough to
romance, whether northern or Oriental. But Zanoni differs from
all such previous creations. His existence, dating from the dominion
of the Chaldean, is no mournful curse, no survival of the zest and
freshness of youth; it is as the glorious immortality of a Greek
Apollo, identifying itself with light and beauty. His magic is no
gloomy and criminal art, but a mastery over the lawful secrets of
nature; to be attained but by dauntless will, by self-conquest, by the
subordination of flesh to spirit. His love, to which, after ages of
celestial purity from mortal passion, he bows himself at last, is con-
ceived and depicted with marvellous delicacy: it takes from humanity
just sufficient for living interest, and soon soars away from the earth
to become divine. But " Zanoni," to be thoroughly appreciated, must
not only be read, but studied; it gains a new beauty with every
perusal.
Meanwhile, the author had still found time to continue his career as
a dramatist. The "Sea Captain" was produced at the Haymarket,
but its success, though unequivocal, was inferior to that of the "Lady 


BULWER LYTTON AND HIS WORKS.
of Lyons" and "Kiohelieu." After a continuous run of thirty
'nights, the author withdrew it from the stage, and has since, we under-
stand, entirely re-written it; with a view, no doubt, to stage-perform-
ance at some future period, since it is not included in the recent
collection of his plays. The brilliant success of "Money," soon
subdued all cavil on the "Sea Captain." "Money" had even a
longer run on its first performance than the "School for Scandal,"
and is still perhaps the most attractive comedy on the modern stage.
In prose fiction our author now looked round for new materials, and
entered at last upon the ground of English historical romance. This
field had been so cultivated by Scott, and gleaned so bare by Scott's
imitators, that experiment here was eminently perilous. But, as an
able critic in the EdinburghReview has remarked, Bulwer looked to
history for the elements of romance in quarters which no one had
before examined. He did not, as Scott and Victor Hugo have done,
with effects so picturesque and brilliant, invent some story in which
the main agents were wholly or half fictitious; and then constrain the
great characters, or leading events of history, to come to the relief of
the scene, or bend to the necessities of the plot. But in the "Last
of the Barons," he took history itself, placed it fairly on the scene,
and from the real characters and the actual events, evolved their own
truthful romance. In this work, the contemporary chronicles are
ransacked, the exact antiquities of the time are diligently studied, the
precise dates are explored and rectified, and the characters of the age
are given with as earnest and conscientious a desire to interpret them
faithfully, as if the work were composed as a history; thus, the chief
attraction of the book is in the brilliant gallery of contemporary por-
traits, Edward IV.; Henry VI.; the grand, affectionate, wayward,
fiery King-Maker, the accomplished, able, inconstant Hastings; the
portentous youth of Richard of Gloucester, learned and witty, dauntless
and aspiring, with the intellect trained at Utrecht, and darkened by
Italian craft, but still the Plantagenet to whom Caxton dedicated his
Book of Chivalry—all are given without one touch of caricature or
exaggeration. Where fictitious characters are introduced, it is never
to disturb the real events of history, but rather to illustrate its social
and moral bearings. Thus Adam Warner, with the invention that
forestalled his time, or Sibyl, with the sentiment and instruction that
were in advance of her sex, serve by their contrast, and their melan-
choly fate, to deepen our sense of the spirit of the age in which they
lived and suffered.
In the preface to this romance, Bulwer stated that it might possibly
be the last prose fiction he should compose. We believe that he had
then formed plans, and indeed commenced negotiations, for the com-
pletion of his "History of Athens," and for an elaborate national


BULTVTII IYTtOW AND HIS WORKS.
influences which rule us at this day, that the careful perusal of
"Harold " becomes almost the duty of every well-instructed English-
man.
All this while, amidst his other occupations, Bulwer had been slowly
completing the work on which he himself relies the most for an audience
in posterity. "King Arthur," by the author of the "New Trams," appeared, like its predecessors, anonymously and in parts; and though,
as yet, it has not reached that wide circles of the public which Bulwer
has always needed to counteract the jealous hostilities with which every
single effort of his in each new direction has been invariably met by
prejudiced decriers, it is certain ultimately to justify the tranquil con-
fidence of its author. There is a natural reluctance in the mind of
general readers to approach a subject of remote date, and demanding a
certain strain upon the intellect; but when the perusal is fairly begun,
the interest in the narrative itself becomes vivid, and sustains itself
with delight, constantly increasing towards the close: all the poet's
rich artistic experience of the conception and development of plot is
brought to bear upon the progress of the whole,—all the play of his
various powers exhibits itself in the most enchanting forms. We find
his humour and his wit in the description of the Vandal king, and the
adventures of Gawaine, —his deepest and tenderest vein of sentiment
in the beautiful love-scenes between the Etrurian .33gle and the Cym-
rian king or the angelic guardianship of the mystic dove; what
easy control over the passions of terror and pity in the wild scenes on
the frozen main,—the grim and vast antediluvian vestiges in the haunted
cavern," —the death of -<Egle,—the sublimer fate of Caradoc, the hero-
bard; how animated the pictures of old chivalric life—its revels, its
wanderings, its knightly conflicts; what august philosophy in the
solemn image of Merlin,—in the allegories that light up the Halls of
Time, and speak the truths of life from the lips of Necessity and Nature
on the Threshold of Death. But our limits will not allow us to do
justice here to a poem requiring the most elaborate analysis illustrated
by copious extracts. The fame of this genial epic will be assured and
lasting whenever some critic, with competent authority and judgment,
shall accomplish for "King Arthur" the task that Addison achieved
for Paradise Lost. Its pictures require but to be placed in the light
in order to attract the crowd.
We should here touch briefly on Bulwer's last dramatic composition.
The causes that conduced to it are well known. In the autumn of
1850, a large party of friends, eminent in letters and art,—Charles Dickens, Douglas Jerrold, Mark Lemon, John Forster,—and the artists
Egg, Leach, Stone, and, we believe, Maclise, had assembled at Knob- worth, and delighted a rural audience with the exhibition of their
theatrical talents in Ben Jonson's comedy, " Every Man to his Humour."


BU1WER LYTTON AND HIS WORKS. xxiii
Before separating, the conversation turned upon the melancholy con-
dition of a well-known man of letters; and the idea was started to
perform a play in the provinces, the profits of which should be applied
to the relief of certain authors in distress. "But why not to the foun-
dation of some permanent fund for the aid of all writers struggling
against fortune now and hereafter? Why not to the establishment of
fixed annuities, rather than the temporary relief to which the laws of
the Literary Fund confine that institution t Why not to the formation
of a joint benefit society,—such as the trading classes found for them-
selves, and from which the idea of eleemosynary degradation is properly
excluded? Why not couple with such a society some of the useful and
dignified objects of a college?" Such were the various suggestions
that grew out of the first proposals, and into which Bulwer entered with
all the earnestness he has ever evinced for whatever can benefit or
raise men of letters by profession. "If you will act a play," said he,
"I will write it. If we can gain money enough to found retreats for
authors—whatever name we decide to bestow on those retreats —I will
give you the land." All present pledged themselves with enthusiasm
to this undertaking. The comedy of "Not so Bad as we Seek"
was thus written. The plan was made known to the Duke of Devon-
shire, and received his grace's cordial co-operation. A room in the
duke's house was fitted up for a theatre, and the play was there acted
for the first time before her Majesty and his Royal Highness Prince
Albert. It was afterwards transferred to the Hanover Square Rooms,
thence it went the round of the provinces. The comedy itself, written
as &piice d'occation, adapted to the peculiar talents of selected amateur
performers, and with little relief from female interest, is not to be judged
according to very severe rules of criticism. As a play of character, it
is excellent.—as a play of interest, it is deficient; and the scenes and situ-
ations, though often strong in themselves, are not connected sufficiently
with the absolute necessities of the plot. Bulwer's real merit here is
not in the play, it is in the objects for which the play was composed.
The joint efforts of a handful of men, earnest in behalf of their brethren,
have already realized more than 3,OO0Z. towards the formation of a
design which, if properly supported by the public, and carried out with
practical judgment, will command for those engaged in its accomplish-
ment the lasting gratitude of all who have been compelled to make
literature not their staff but their crutch.
We now come to the two prose fictions with which our collection is
closed. The surpassing popularity that has attended the "Caxton
Family" and "Mr Novel; or, Varieties in English Life," may
perhaps be traced to their ample demonstration of a faculty in which,
at least in prose, our author had previously given but partial glimpses
—the faculty of pleasant humour. Wit, indeed, abounds to redundance


xxiv
BULWBK LYTTON AND IIIS WOB.KS.
in "Pelham,"—"Devereux,"— "Paul Clifford," and in the earlier
part of " England and the English;" but wit, logical and sarcastic:
humour, is also visible in those and in others of their successors before
the "Caxtons,"—as in the Corporal Bunting of "Eugene Aram," the
Lumley Ferrers of " Ernest Maltravers," &C., —but a humour some-
what saturnine and Juvenalian, rather bringing into contempt the
vices and errors of men,—than playing circam prcecordia, as in the mode
of Horace, winning affection to the virtues, with which it establishes a
cordial if sportive kindred. This faculty, therefore, of genial humour,
—the humour of Goldsmith, not of Swift,—had been long denied by his
critics to Bidwer. This was precisely the faculty in which he now dis-
played himself most familiarly at home, and which has since established
in the smiling affection of every fireside the family of "Caxton," and
the Squire and Parson of Hazeldean. In both these novels—for we
must treat them as of the same class, though one takes a far wider range
than the other—there is also a more practical survey of life than is
habitual to their predecessors. The feelings addressed are those with
which we are all more familiar,—the characters are less idealized, more
palpable and actual. Perhaps, however, the merits of these two works
were more universally acknowledged from the first than those of fictions
equally stamped by genius, less from the presence of new beauties than
from the absence of peculiarities in tone and manner which the taste
of certain readers regarded as defects. Their moral, also, is thoroughly
intelligible, and admits of no question—the moral of works like "Paul Clifford,"—"Eugene Aram,"—"Maltravers." "Zanoni" is more
metaphysical, and demands some stretch of the reason to embrace; but
the moral of the " Caxton Family" and of "My Novel" can be felt
by a child,—it runs broadly and healthfully along the whole composi-
tion, sporting with us by the way, and leaving us happier and better at
the close. The "Caxton Family," as a composition of art, is, how-
ever, modelled on principles distinct from those of " My Novel." In
the first the characters are extremely few, and the interest simple and
concentrated. In "My Novel," on the contrary, it is the astonishing
variety of characters, all equally elaborate, and the rich complexities of
interest, all harmonized into one easy whole, that engage our admiration.
In a word, one is the picture of a home, the other the mirror of an age.
It is from its immense breadth of comprehension,—its mature repose of
thought,—its felicitous selection of the results of a most diversified expe-
rience, that "My Novel" is indeed par emphasis entitled to the name
it assumes; and if not the loftiest of Bulwer's works, is certainly his
completest novel.
We have now named all the prose fictions composed by the author,
and which, receiving his last corrections, will be found in this edition.
But we must pause briefly to glance over the characteristics he has


BTJLWEE LYTTON AND HIS WORKS. xxix
the many rays of his intellect—poetry, philosophy, criticism, scholar-
ship, vivid imagination, and practical knowledge of multiform life.
Hence, the immensity of their range ; hence, of all novelists, he is the
one who repeats himself the least. You can never guess by the last fic-
tion what will be the next, and each has its own peculiar set of admirers.
Most readers agree, in general, as to the best works of an author—it
is not so with Bulwer. If a party of twelve persons were to discuss
the merits of his novels, no three would agree as to the one to which
they assigned the preference. At one period of his career it was the
fashion amongst his decriers, to speak of him with a sneer, as "the
Author of 'Pelham,'" as if that single work were the type of his whole
genius. But nowhere, in any other author, can we find varieties of
power so marked as those which contrast the airy liveliness of "Pel-
ham" with the solemn gloom of "Eugene Aram;" the sportive
fancies of the "Pilgrims of the Rhine " with the severe grandeur of
"Eienzi;" the stately epic of "Hahold " with the charming comedy
of the "Caxtons ;" or the ideal visions of " Zanoni" with the practical
lessons of "My Novel." So, too, at one time, it was a received
reproach against the breadth of his genius, that he painted himself in
his heroes—a reproach which might as well be alleged against Shakes- peare ; for no two of his heroes resemble each other, and yet into each
of the more prominent he throws impartial vitality and power. How
distinct is Pelham from Algernon Mordaunt, Paul Clifford from
Eugene Aram, Ernest Maltravers from Philip Morton, Zanoni from
Pisistratus Caxton. To no one English writer, perhaps, can the-
epithet "many sided," coined for Goethe, be so well applied as
to Bulwer; and this not only from the extent and depth of his
studies, but from the accidents of his life and the energy of his tem-
perament.
By the hints scattered through his writings, and by what is known of
his career, we can trace him through so many forms of society, and
observe him at home in all. The child escaping from his stately home
to the hearth of cottagers ;* the school-boy, vehement in sport, and
dauntless in combat; the Cambridge student, declaiming at the De-
bating Society, and employing the long vacations to wander over
England and Scotland, alone and on foot; the young man of fashion
at ease in the gay circles of London and Paris, and lightly adventuring
into the haunts of thieves and outlaws, to learn the manners depicted
in "Pelham" and "Paul Clifford;" the secluded scholar studying
metaphysics and Greek in rural solitudes; the active member of
Parliament, contesting elections, participating in the dry toil of com-
* See "The Student," art. Kuebworth.


XXX
BUI/WER LYTTON AND HIS WORKS.
uiittees, and the animated field-days of debate; the accomplished
traveller studying aesthetics in Germany, and antiquities in Rome ; the
hospitable country gentleman, the oracle of farmers, and the companion
of squires,—through all such phases passed the man who has traced
with so easy a skill, the "Varieties of English Life." And in all
this he has been true to his own favourite maxim—J' that the duty of
man is not to be one thing alone, but to accomplish, as far as possible,
all the faculties of his mind, and the faculties will lead of themselves
to the objects in which he is most fitted to excel." "If," says Goethe,
"we do but our duty to our own minds, we shall soon come to do it to
the world." And in Bulwer this comprehensiveness of study and life
has been preserved from that satiety and weariness which often attends
extreme cultivation by an energy that seems never to know repose, and
which all temporary failure, all hostile criticism, has only nerved into
more stubborn perseverance. No writer has owed so little to partisan-
ship and cliques—no writer been so assailed at the commencement of
his career, and at each new direction of his powers; he has never used
his social influence to obtain favourers in the press—he has descended
to none of the acts by which authors are forced into notoriety by re-
viewers—he has fought his way to his present eminence singlehanded,
and owes his success even less to his genius, than (to use the expres-
sive English word, for the stout English quality), his indomitable
pluck.
It must also be alleged, in his favour, that few writers, with equal
command of the weapons of irony and sarcasm, have, on the whole,
written with so little bitterness against hostile critics or literary foes,
while none have more cordially welcomed and cheered on every
new rival in the same field. He has seized every occasion to vindicate
the dignity of letters, and identify himself with what he has empha-
tically called his "Order;" he has never sneered at and decried "the
author by profession;" the acquisition of title, lands, wealth, and
commanding station, has left him still the same earnest student, the
same cordial friend of all that share with honour the same laborious
ambition to delight and to instruct. What he may yet do, if health
and life be spared to him, it is difficult to conjecture; for his powers
have not yet found that limit at which criticism can justly say, "So
far, and no farther." But already, though yet in the vigour of mature
manhood, at an age in which Scott had scarcely commenced his career
of fame, he has achieved a reputation which may be fairly judged a
test of the opinion posterity will pass; since it has not been coddled
into growth by coteries and claqueurs; since it has resisted the sharpest
assaults, the unsparing exposition of every fault, the grudging dis-
paragement of every beauty. Of all our living authors, by far the


BTJLWEB 1YTT0N AND HIS WOKES.
xxxi
most admired in America and on the Continent, especially amongst
the thoughtful public of the North, his genius, year by year, has
risen more and more into the just appreciation of his own country-
men. And his writings are more popular after the lapse of time, and
the ordeal of criticism, than they were when they first forced their
hardy way into envied favour. Hence the confidence which the Pub-
lishers of this edition repose in the multitude to whom it is more
especially addressed. The time has come when our people can connect
value of substance with economy of price. And there is nothing that
more interests the masses than a survey of the intellectual attributes'
of the age in which they live. Those attributes are most visible in
the works of their contemporaneous writers; and in none are they
so earnest, yet multiform, as in the volumes now brought within
the reach of all who desire to purchase, in order to study, what they
read.
Nor can the Publishers fear that, large as may be their pecuniary
stake in this Edition, they have made any hazardous speculation in the
trust they place in the discriminating judgment of their countrymen.
They believe that in this, their own interest will be found identified
with that of the numbers to whom, in their present form, these
works will extend their range of salutary and lasting influence.
For, when all allowance for the faults or deficiencies of our
author is largely made, this praise at least must incontestably
remain, that no collection of prose fictions, by any single author,
contains the same variety of experience, the same amplitude of
knowledge and thought, the same combination of opposite extremes,
harmonized by an equal mastership of art; here lively and sparkling
fancies, there vigorous passion, or practical wisdom; these works abound
in illustrations that teach benevolence to the rich, and courage to the
poor; they glow with the love of freedom; they bespeak a sympathy
with all high aspirations, and all manly struggle; and where, in their
more tragic portraitures, they depict the dread images of guilt and
woe, they so clear our judgment by profound analysis, while they move
our hearts by terror or compassion, that we learn to detect and stifle in
ourselves the evil thought which we see gradually unfolding itself into
the guilty deed.
Finally, whatever be their boldness in social speculation and
philosophical research into the subtleties of human ethics, they have
never treated, save with humble reverence, of the august mysteries
of religion. Here, they raise no questions to disturb the mind, to
unsettle the belief, while they lose no fitting occasion to strengthen the
links that bind man to his Creator. In many a noble, many a lovely
passage they bring to the service of our common faith the aid of a


xxx ii
BULWEH LYTTON AND HIS WORKS.
luminous imagination, and a commanding reason. In this the art that
they display, true to the Nature it explores, seeks everywhere to
establish the harmonies of wise design, and track from effect to cause
the merciful wisdom of controlling Providence.
W.
December, 1853.


fist of % ftofols attir Mta
or
SIR EDWARD BULWER LYTTON, BART.
Pelham.
Is. 6d. Railway Library. Large Edition, cloth gilt, 3s. 6d.
"Pelham " is at once the most finished as a narrative, the most
vigorous in execution, and taking its exuberant wit and daring origi-
nality into account, it must be considered as the most decided indica-
tion of what is rather felt than defined by the word genius.
Paul Clifford.
Is. Cd. Railway Library. Large Edition, cloth gilt, 3s. 6d.
"Paul Clifford " is a work sui generis. It is a political and
social satire worked out through the gravest agencies;—in form, a
burlesque—in essentials, a tragedy.
Eugene Aram.
Is. 6d. Railway Library. Large Edition, cloth gilt, 3s. 6d.
"Eugene Aram " attests an immense progress in the resources of
art in fiction; it grasps the materials of terror and pity with a master's
hand, and connects them with all the gradual progress of the drama,
into tragic completeness.
The Last Days of Pompeii.
Is. 6d. Railway Library. Large Edition, cloth gilt, 3s. 6d.
The plot commencing lightly with the gay descriptions of idle life,
its baths and its banquets, deepens gradually towards the awful mag-
nificence of the catastrophe. All our passions are alternately '' rocked
as on a music scale" by the scene in the gladiatorial arena,—the
inhuman delight of the spectators,—the first outburst of the irruption
from the Mount of Fire,—the phenomena of the general destruction,
—to the still unnoticed disappearance of Nydia, under the smile of
awaking Dawn.
Ernest Maltravers.
Is. Cd. Railway Library. Large Edition, cloth gilt, 3s. 6d.


2 List of the Novels and Tales of Sir E. B. Lytton.
Rienzi.
Is. Gel. Railway Library. Large Edition, cloth gilt, 3s. 6d.
The early middle age of Italy rises before us; rude, yet struggling
into light, and seeking escape into civilization by return to the classic
past; the grand soul of the " Last Tribune" comes to recall again
for a momentary interval, the majesty of antique Rome, startling, as
with the ghost of the classic giantess, the barbarian courts of the
victor North. Rienzi himself is the master-spirit of the whole.
Alice; or, the Mysteries.
Is. 6d. Railway Library. Large Edition, cloth gilt, 3s. 6d.
The typical intentions are with admirable art kept so far subordinate
to the story, that we always feel ourselves in the company of living
agents; and it is only when our interest in the events of the tale and
the destinies of its leading characters is fully satisfied, that we pause
to look back at the secret philosophy that pervades the narrative, and
become sensible of the wisdom we have acquired in the pleasure we
have received.
Night and Morning.
Is. 6d. Railway Library. Large Edition, cloth gilt, 4s.
"Night and Morning" is the most generally popular of the
author's works; its materials are of a homelier and coarser kind than
many of them; but their texture is strong and their hues brilliant.
And in proportion as the work dispenses with the more reflective
beauties that distinguish "Maitbavers," it gains as an animated
and powerful story of human life.
The Pilgrims of the Rhine.
Is. Railway Library. Large Edition, cloth gilt, 2s. 6d.
The loveliest and most fanciful of this varied catalogue of fiction. It
gathers together, as into a garland of flowers, the associations, the
history, the legends, the romance of the Rhine. Nothing like it, for
the comprehension of the poetical aspects of places hallowed by
tradition, exists in our language; and its originality is so toned down
into familiar sweetness, that it is scarcely detected till we search for
some work with which to compare it, and—find none.