： -|-._ |- （ ） - - |- · - |-|-|- |- - - |- |--|-|-|- |- |-|- -|-|- |- |- ·|-· |- - |-- |-·| _ |- -|- -·|-· |-- |- |-|-|-- |-- · · ·- （ ） - （ ） |- №. | __-__ · |- - · |-|- --|- |-|- |- · |-- · · |-- - _ |-|-· ---- - - -- -- - - - - -- - - - - - • j DAINTY DISHES EDi NBURGH : PRINTED BY THOMAS CONSTABLE, LONDON, . CAMBRIDGF, DUBLIN, GLASGO.W., For EDMONSTON AND DOUGLAS. . . . . . . . . HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO. MACMILLAN AND CO. . . . . . M'GLASHAN AND GILI. .I.AMES MACLEHOSF. DAINTY DISHES EECEIPTS COLLECTED BY LADY HAREIETT ST. GLAIR FIFTH EDITION. PHILADELPHIA J. B. LIPPINCOTT AND CO. 1866 PREFACE. QUAND LA CORNElfUSS EST PLEINE ON EN CHANTS 111EUX. IT may seem superfluous, if not presumptuous, to offer to the public a book on Cookery, when there are already so many extant, and of which several are the works of really great "Artists;" but this little volume presents itself without any pretension, as being merely a collection of receipts, many of which the Compiler believes to be original, and all of which she knows to be good. And if the jaded appe- tite of one sick person is stimulated, or one healthy appetite gratified, her object will be attained, and any trouble she may have had in the compilation of the book amply rewarded. It is often very difficult to prevail upon cooks to follow the directions of a receipt; they think they know as well, or better, and if they condescend to employ the ingredients, pay no attention to the instructions for their proportion, or admixture, or the time they may take in cooking, in order to bring them to the right point, as the French say, "cuit au point:" the result is probably a nasty mess, in no way resembling what was originally in- VI PREFACE. tended. For this it is difficult to find a remedy; but there is one when practicable—i.e. make it yourself; and the writer hopes that the directions given are sufficiently explicit to enable the veriest tyro to do this without fear of failure, and consequent disap- pointment. A near relation of the Compiler's, and orie who thoroughly understood and enjoyed good living, and from whom she acquired many receipts and much culinary lore, once said to her,—" Original English, or what is called plain cooking, is the worst, and the most ignorant, and the most extravagant, in the known world!" There is no doubt considerable truth in this; but she is not sure that the word plain should not be omitted, and questions much if there is or ever was original English cookery. The obser- vation would then resolve itself into—" English cookery is the worst," etc. etc.; and this she thinks few will be inclined to dispute. What can be more unpalatable than the horrible attempts at entree's, dignified with some high-sounding French name, made by the general run of English cooks? the sodden pieces of meat, soaking in a mess of flour and butter, com- monly called roux, which, with the addition of a little melted glaze, forms the English cook's universal idea of a sauce, and which they liberally and indiscrimin- ately bestow on fish, flesh, and fowl—proving, indeed, most painfully, how very little there is in a name; a theory, by the way, which the writer has often felt PREFACE. Vll inclined to dispute. Now, by what is called plain cooking, per se, she understands Roasting, Broiling, Baking, and Boiling; and if these are well done, nobody can justly complain of having a bad dinner. How much rather would not any one prefer a well- broiled mutton-chop—Irovm, tender, and succulent— tempting you, by its appearance, to eat, even as much as that of the other deterred you from the attempt! So with a joint of well-roasted beef, or mutton, and well boiled or baked potatoes; if not appetising, they at least satisfy your hunger without nauseating, and you cannot say you have dined badly, though your dinner has not been very recherche". But there are occasions when even a good appetite palls, upon the too frequent repetition of such heavy viands, and when that of the delicate invalid will turn with loathing from such solid, though wholesome food. It is then, the writer hopes, reference will be made to this little volume of "DAINTY DISHES," and that the good appetite may be gratified, and the delicate one renovated. PERNT-.BUHG, April 10, 1866. C O N T E N T S. SOUPS SAUCES.–Cold Sauces Cold Sauces to keep Hot Sauces - - Fish Sauces - - FISH MEAT, PoulTRY, GAME VEGETABLEs, SALADs, etc. EGGs, CHEESE, ENTREMETs, etc. PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, etc. Pudding Sauces Pastry BAKING—Bread, Biscuits, Cakes, etc. LIQUEURS, CUPs, etc. - - PICKLING AND PRESERVING Different methods of making Marmalade r pAge 20 29 32 48 55 79 128 160 175 208 209 235 252 265 272 CookERY FOR THE SICK AND POOR DAIRY—CHEESE, BUTTER, etc. WARIOUS RECEIPTS FOR MAKING COFFEE * 285 305 316 SOUPS. G OUPS, properly so called, are made from stock which may be made some days beforehand; and this, by the addition of different vegetables, or very often the same merely cut in another shape, or the flavour varied by herbs, becomes Soupe a la Julienne, Printanikre, Brw- noise, etc. etc. For the making of stock, and its subse- quent metamorphosis into these various soups, there are so many directions given in divers excellent French cookery-books that it would be superfluous to introduce them here: the following receipts would be therefore more correctly termed Broths, as they require to be fresh-made, and have each an individual character of their own. 1. POT AT; FEU. Put in a saucepan six Ibs. of beef (bones included) cut into two or three pieces; three-quarters of a Ib. of mixed vegetables, such as onions, carrots, turnips, leeks, white cabbage, and celery with its leaves left on, all cut in good-sized pieces; three small spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, and one of sugar; add eight pints of water; let it boil gently three hours; remove the fat; add crusts of roll or slices of bread, either previously toasted or plain, and serve. 2 SOUPS. Beef . . 6 Ibs. Vegetables, mixed f Ib. Salt . . 3 small spoonfuls. Pepper 1 „ Sugar 1 „ Water . . 8 pints. Bread . . ad vol. To boil gently three hours. 2. SCOTCH MUTTON OR BARLEY BROTH. Soak a neck of mutton in water for an hour; cut off the scrag, and put it into a stew-pot with two quarts of water: as soon as it boils, skim it well; let it simmer for an hour and a half, then take the best end of the mutton, cut it in cutlets, trim off some of the fat, and add as many to the soup as you think proper; skim the moment the fresh meat boils up, and every quarter of an hour after; then add four or five carrots, the same number of turnips, three onions, and some celery, all cut, but not too small; four large spoonfuls of barley, previously washed in cold water. The broth should stew altogether three hours twenty minutes; before serving, some chopped parsley may be added. Neck of mutton . 1 Carrots ... 5 Turnips ... 5 Onions ... 3 Celery heads . . 3 Barley ... 4 large spoonfuls. Water . . 2 quarts. To boil slowly three hours; season to taste. sours. 3 3. SIR EGBERT PRESTON'S MUTTON BROTH. Two pounds and a half of mutton boiled in two pints of water, with a little barley, very slowly for three or four hours; then strain it off and remove the fat; add three turnips and carrots, and two leeks or onions, cut very fine; put them, with three mutton chops, into the broth, and boil till tender; when nearly done, add some greens, previously blanched and well drained; boil for about ten minutes more, season with salt, and serve. The vegetables should appear quite thick in the broth, and be cut very small. Mutton . . 2J Ibs. Water . . 2 pints. Turnips . . 3 Carrots . . 3 Leeks or onions . 2 Mutton chops . 3 Greens. Barley, say . . 3 spoonfuls. 4. SHEEP'S HEAD BROTH. Take a large breakfast cupful of barley, a sheep's he;iJ and trotters previously prepared, and, if the broth should be wanted stronger, a neck of mutton; put them into a pot with two quarts of cold water ;. as soon as it comes to the boil be careful to skim it well. Cut down some carrots and turnips small, a little parsley and two onions; before you add the roots skim it again. Boil slowly till the head is quite tender; take the pot off the fire and stand it near, covered closely, for a quarter of an 4 SOUPS. hour before serving. The head and trotters should be served separately with whole carrots and turnips. To PREPARE THE HEAD AND TROTTERS. They should be well singed, which is best done at the blacksmith's. Split the head down the middle of the skull; take out the brains, and rub the head all over with them; lay the head and trotters to soak in water all night; scrape and wash well before using. N.B.—Sheep's head is excellent eaten cold. 5. HOTCH POTCH. Take a neck or breast of mutton; cut it into small square pieces, put them into a pot with two quarts of cold water; when it boils skim it well, and add the vegetables and a little salt and pepper; carrots, turnips, celery, young onions, and a quart of shelled peas (they should not be very young); let them boil very slowly till done. Half an hour before serving add a pint of young green peas. Almost any vegetables that are in season may be added to hotch potch with improvement, and it may be made with lamb instead of mutton. It cannot be boiled too slowly; eight hours is not too much. Neck or breast of mutton or lamb 1 Water ..... 2 quarts. Old peas 1 „ Young peas .... 1 pint. Carrots .... 6 Turnips .... 6 Celery .... 3 Onions, young .... 7 sours. 6. CLEAR OR ENGLISH MUTTON BROTH. Take a neck of mutton; cut off it as many chops as you wish to serve in the broth; put the remainder into a pan with carrots and turnips, stir it to prevent its getting thick, and skim carefully; let it toil four hours, then strain it through a sieve, and add the cutlets and carrots and turnips cut into dice or any shape you fancy, and boil till they are tender; season with pepper and salt. A little raw parsley chopped very fine may be added just before serving. 7. BEEF BROTH, OR BROTH 1 LA MODE. Put into a soup-pot twelve Ibs. of the sticking piece of beef from a young ox, with the kernels and sweetbreads; pour on sufficient cold water to cover the meat; set the pot over a quick fire, and carefully attend to the scum rising, so that it may all be removed before it can boil into the broth. After the first scum is removed, imme- diately throw in some cold water, which will cause more to rise. When this is removed, place the pot by the side of a stove to boil slowly for four hours; then strain the broth through a napkin, which should be kept for the purpose; take care of the kernels and sweetbreads, which you return to the broth, together with four carrots and turnips, a head of celery and two onions; these should be cut in good-sized pieces with a round cutter. Con- tinue boiling the broth till the vegetables are quite tender; season and serve. Be careful to remove any fat that may rise in the second boiling. G SOUPS. Sticking piece of beef 12 Ibs. Carrots ... 4 Turnips ... 4 Celery ... 1 Onions ... 2 Salt. To boil four or five hours. 8. COCK-A-LEEKIE. Truss a cock as for boiling, put it into a stew-pan with a piece of lean beef, about 4 Ibs.; two dozen of leeks cut in pieces about an inch long, rejecting the coarser green part; a little pepper and salt, and five quarts of water. Cover the stew-pan up closely and allow its contents to etew slowly four hours; then place the cock in a tureen; remove the beef, and pour the soup and leeks over it, and serve. Cock . . 1 Beef . . 4 Ibs. Leeks . . 2 doz. Pepper . 1 spoonful. Salt . . 1 „ Water . . 5 quarts. To boil four hours. 9. ANOTHER COCK-A-LEEKIE. Put four Ibs. of beef and an old fowl in a gallon of water, and when it boils throw in a good quantity of sliced leeks with plenty of the tender green part left on, a teaspoonful of ground pepper, and half a one of salt. Let all boil for four hours, then put in half a Ib. of prunes, SOUPS. 7 and let it boil an hour longer; take out the meat and fowl; cut off some of the best parts of the white meat from the breast of the fowl, and add it to the soup; the prunes should be left in. The leeks are improved by being soaked two hours in cold water before they are used. This is an excellent receipt. Beef . . 4 Ibs. Fowl . . 1 Water . . 1 gallon. Leeks . . 4 dozen. Prunes ,. . £ Ib. Pepper . . 1 spoonful. Salt J „ To boil five hours. 10. FRIAR'S CHICKEN, LIE OR THICK. Take a knuckle of veal, two carrots, two turnips, two or three onions, and a few sweet herbs; boil all these together to a good stock and strain it. Have ready a pair of chickens boiled tender and cut in pieces, a quart of cream and six yolks of eggs beaten together; add these to the broth and heat them up together, and send it to table. Some like a little minced parsley added just before serving. Knuckle of veal 1 ] Turnips . . 2 • Carrots 2 1- These ingredients Onions . . 3 | are removed Sweet herbs . 4 sprigs. J Cream . . 1 quart. Yolks of eggs 6 Chickens . 2 8 SOUPS. 11. FRIAR'S CHICKEN, CLEAR. Take two or three chickens cut in quarters, as for a fricassee, and a small piece of lean beef; put them in four quarts of boiling water; when nearly done enough, which will be in about two hours, add some finely-minced parsley. Do not leave it on the fire more than ten minutes after this; the minute before serving stir in quickly two eggs previously well beaten together. Atten- tion should be paid to skimming, and it is more delicate if the skins of the chickens are removed. Chickens ... 3 Lean beef ... 2 Ibs. Water ... 4 quarts. Minced parsley . . Quant, suff. Eggs ... 2 To be boiled 2£ hours; seasoned to taste. 12. KNUCKLE OF VEAL AND EICE SOUP. To a knuckle of veal well scalded add three quarts of veal stock, three ounces of rice, a blade of mace, and a sprig of thyme; when it has boiled two hours and a half put into it one onion and two heads of celery cut fine; let it boil half an hour longer; season with salt, take out the large bones, and serve. A fowl and rice may be done in the same way, but will not take so long. 13. POTATO SOUP. Grate off the skin of as many potatoes as will make the quantity of soup required, and which will partly depend upon their size, they should be of a mealy kind; wash SOUPS. 9 them well in tepid water, add them to your stock pre- viously prepared from roast beef bones; four or five onions, and some salt and pepper. Let it simmer very slowly till the potatoes are quite dissolved. 14. ANOTHER POTATO SOUP. Cut a breast of mutton into small square pieces; put it on to boil with some good stock; let it stew gently, skimming it meanwhile carefully, for two hours; then add two dozen of potatoes peeled and washed (they should not be large ones), and two dozen button onions, or five large ones sliced. Season with salt and pepper, and stew slowly till the potatoes are nearly dissolved. Breast of mutton 1 Potatoes . . 2 doz. Onions . . 5 large or two dozen buttons. Salt and pepper. To stew three or four hours. 15. HARE SOUP Should be made with a perfectly fresh hare. When skinned, take care to save all the blood. If a larger quantity of soup is required, or it is wished very strong, take two fresh hares, but on no account use any other meat. Cut the hare in pieces, and put into a dish with the quantity of water required for your soup. Let it stand an hour; then add the blood of the hare; strain it through a sieve into the soup-pot, and put all on the fire; stir it constantly till it boils, to prevent its curd- ling, and skim it a little; then put in a carrot, a piece of i() SOUPS. celery, two whole onions, and an ounce of black pepper tied up in a^bit of muslin; a bunch of herbs, salt, and a little chopped onion. Boil it slow for three hours; take it off an hour before dinner; strain it through a sieve; take out the onions, carrot, pepper, etc., and put in some of the best pieces of the hare which you had previously kept back, cut as for jugged hare; return it to the sauce- pan, and let it boil. Take a tablespoonful of ground rice, and, shortly before serving, stir it well into the soup; continue stirring till it is removed from the fire. - Hares . . 1 or 2 Carrot . . 1 Celery . . 1 Onions . . 3 Pepper . . 1 oz. A bunch of herbs. Salt to taste. Ground rice . 1 tablespoonful. To stew four hours. 16. SPORTSMAN'S BROTH. Take a grouse, a blackcock, a ptarmigan, a woodcock, and any other game you have; cut them in small joints, reserving some of the best pieces; put them into a pot with water and plenty of vegetables whole. Let it stew very slowly four or five hours; then take the best pieces, season them and toss them in a little flour; brown them over a very quick fire, and add them to the strained stock, with two dozen very small onions, two heads of celery sliced, and half a white cabbage shred fine; to stew slowly till tender. Half an hour before serving, add six potatoes cut in slices. This is excellent. -, SOUPS. 11 17. MOORFOWL SOUP. Remove the backs of six moorfowl; cut tlie best parts of the legs, wings, and breast from four of the birds; if you have any pieces of pheasant or partridge, you can add them. Stew them till quite tender, then add about three pints of veal stock, and set it on to boil very slowly for one hour. Strain it through a tammy, and skim the fat off as clean as possible; remove all but the best pieces of moorfowl; give one boil more, and skim it again; add a small lump of sugar and a glass of white wine. 18. MULLIGATAWNY. Take a good veal stock, flavoured with carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and a little white pepper; strain it through a fine sieve; be particular in removing the scum when it first boils up. Then take two chickens, or the best part of three rabbits; put them into a stew-pan with a little butter; set it over a slow fire to stew till they become tender; take them out and wash them clean in warm water. In another stew-pan put a little butter and flour; stir it over a slow fire for five minutes, then add your veal stock; let it boil up for a quarter of an hour; now put in your chickens or rabbits, cut as for fricassee; curry powder, the quantity of which you must regulate according to taste; two large spoonfuls of rice, a little cayenne pepper, and a little salt. Let it boil till the rice is tender; skim it clean; and before serving stir in care- fully a pint of good cream. 19. SOUP 1 LA FLAMANDE. Take two quarts of good veal stock, put in a small hand- 12 SOUPS. ful of sliced spinach and sorrel, and let it boil till this is tender; season it with salt, and while it is boiling, but about two minutes before serving, stir into it a pint of cream previously well mixed with the yolks of six eggs- 20. TURNIP SOUP. Slice six yellow turnips, two large onions, a carrot, and a piece of celery; stew them till tender in a quarter of a pound of butter, then add a little boiling soup, and let it boil till the vegetables are thoroughly done; rub them through a sieve, return them to the stew-pan, and add as much soup as you require for your tureen; let it boil; beat up the yolks of six eggs in a pint of cream, and just before serving stir it into the soup. Season with white pepper and salt. 21. POTAGE A LA PUREE DE LENTILLES. Take six heads of celery, three onions, two turnips, and four carrots; put them into a stew-pan with one pound of lentils, a large slice of ham, and a quarter of a pound of butter; set it upon a stove to stew slowly for one hour, then add two quarts of soup and let it stew for two hours; strain the soup into a dish, and put the vegetables and lentils into a mortar and pound them; then rub through a sieve with a little of the broth by means of a wooden spoon; put it again into the stew-pan with a little salt and the crust of a French roll toasted, and let it simmer for a quarter of an hour longer, and serve. It may be made without the French roll, and fried bread served with it. When celery cannot be procured, the seed, as a substitute, is almost as good, the same with chervil. SOUPS. 13 22. WHITE CELERY SOUP. Two quarts of veal stock boiled with six heads of celery till done very tender; strain it and add six more heads of celery cut very fine, and two ounces of butter mixed with three tablespoonfuls of flour. Stew till the celery is quite tender, and just before removing from the fire add half a pint of good cream previously scalded. Season with salt, a small piece of sugar, and a very little cayenne. 23. PUREE OF GREEN PEAS. Take three pints of green peas, two turnips, two onions, a small bunch of mint, and one head of celery cut in pieces, and put them into a stew-pan with two ounces of butter and one quart of soup; let them stew till tender enough to rub through a tammy; when this is done add two quarts more soup. Season with salt and a small piece of sugar ; let it come to the boil, and add one tea- cupful of spinach juice to make it a fine green colour. SPINACH JUICE FOR GREENING. Pound some spinach in a mortar, squeeze it through a tammy or sieve ; put the juice in a stew-pan on the fire till it curdles; then pour the water off through a fine lawn sieve, and rub the green residue through with a little broth. 24. SOUP MAIGRE. Put three pints of green peas in a gallon of water, a bunch of sweet herbs, a French roll, a blade of mace, a few cloves, and some pepper. Let these boil till it comes to three quarts ; strain it, and put in a pint of young peas. H SOUPS. Then take some lettuces, some parsley, young leeks, and celery; chop them small and fry them in brown butter, drain them, and add them to your soup. A small piece of bacon may be used to season it. 25. WHITE SOUP MAIGRE. Take a large handful of chervil, four heads of celery, two onions, three lettuces, a little sorrel, thyme, and tarragon; boil these in a quart of water upon the stove till quite stewed down. About a quarter of an hour before dinner take it off and strain it from the herbs, and let it stand till it is cool; then add to it a pint of good cream, thickened with the yolks of three eggs; stir it well in, and put it on the fire to heat, but do not let it boil. Green peas or asparagus, sorrel or rice, may be added. 26. ANOTHER SOUP MAIGRE. Six cucumbers, four lettuces, two onions, a good handful of spinach, a sprig of mint, and a pint of shelled peas, a small piece of ham, and a quarter of a pound of butter; put these into two quarts of water and boil for four hours, and then pass it all through a sieve. When done, put in a pint of green peas well boiled, and a few slices of cucum- ber or any other vegetable you like. The vegetables should be well washed, and the cucumbers and lettuces cut before being put in. SOUPS. 15 FISH SOUPS. 27. STOCK FOR BROWN OR WUITE Fisn Sour. Take a pound of skate, four or five flounders, and two pounds of eels; clean them well, and cut them into pieces; cover them with water, and season with mace, pepper, salt, an onion stuck with cloves, a head of celery, two parsley roots sliced, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Simmer all together in a stew-pan closely covered for an hour and a hah0', then strain it off for use. If for brown soup, first fry the fish brown in butter, and then proceed as above. It will not keep more than two or three days, and is best used quite fresh. 28. SALMON SOUP. Take a fowl or an equivalent piece of veal, a piece of lean ham, a few anchovies, and half a pound of salmon; put them all together in a stew-pan, with a piece of fresh butter, on the fire; let it stew for half an hour, taking care it does not brown; add three quarts of water, and skim well; add to it a head of celery, two or three onions, a little parsley, two or three cloves, and a little allspice and white pepper; let it boil an hour and a half, and strain it through a lawn sieve; then take a pan with a bit of butter and a spoonful of flour, stir them together till it comes to a light brown, then add the stock and stir till it boils; take care and skim off all the butter; now stir in a piece of salmon, previously boiled, pounded, and rubbed through a tammy with a little cream, and if you have it, some lobster spawn, which gives it a fine colour. Have ready a slice of salmon, boiled quick in water; ] 6 SOUPS. cut it in small pieces, and add it to the soup before you serve it up. 29. SOUP A LA MELTON MOWBRAY. Fillet two middling-sized haddocks with the skin on; lay them on a buttered saut6-pan on which you have previously sprinkled six finely-chopped eschalots, a tablespoonful of minced parsley, and a pinch of finely-powdered mace. Take the heads, bones, and trimmings, and set them in a saucepan over the fire for a few minutes, and then add two quarts of good stock; simmer for half an hour. Blanch and beard fifty oysters; add the liquor to the stock, and the oysters to the fillets; thicken the soup with roux, and, when well skimmed and clarified, add it to the fillets previously slightly fried. Let it boil five minutes; add half a pint of Madeira or dry sherry, the juice of half a lemon, and season with cayenne to taste. When haddocks cannot be procured, soles or whitings do as well. It is also excellent made with cod-sounds, well soaked and blanched, instead of fillets of fish, and cod-fish used for the stock. 30. COD'S-HEAD SOUP. Make half a gallon of strong stock as follows :—Take two pounds of beef, half a knuckle of veal, and a pound and a half of lean ham, two large onions stewed in butter, with a little gravy to keep them from turning brown. Let it boil up, then add a bunch of sweet herbs, mar- joram, thyme, and basil, two bay-leaves, a small handful of parsley, and the peel of half a lemon. Let it stew gently till the herbs are tender, then pass it through a tammy. Now take half a bottle of white wine, the eighth SOUPS. 17 of an ounce of cloves, and the same quantity of black pepper, the eighth of a pound of anchovies, and a quarter of a pint of mushroom ketchup; stew all these together slowly for a quarter of an hour, strain it, and add the liquor to the stock. Season with a little cayenne pepper and salt, and thicken with a little roux. Have ready a large cod's head stewed in a pan with a little stock till all the meat comes from the bones. .Add this fish and the gravy it was stewed in to your soup, and let it boil up, with forced-meat balls and little eggs thus prepared :— Take half a pound of cod, six large oysters, three anchovies, and a quarter of a pound of suet; season highly; add a few bread crumbs and one egg, and make into balls. The little eggs are made by beating three hard-boiled yolks of eggs in a mortar to a paste with the yolk of one raw egg. Roll into small balls, and throw them into boiling water for two minutes. 31. SCOTCH FISH SOUP. Take four haddocks, skin them, and take out all the bones ; cut them into pieces about two inches long ; then put the heads, skins, and bones, after being well washed, into four quarts of good beef-stock, with three onions, and let it boil for an hour; then strain the soup into a clean saucepan, into which put two onions, chopped very small, a turnip and a carrot, which latter are to be taken out. Let it boil five minutes, then put in your pieces of fish with a handful of minced parsley, and let it boil eight minutes. Season with pepper and salt. Some add two tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, but the com- piler disapproves of it. 18 SOUPS. 32. A MARSEILLES EECEIPT FOR BOUILLABAISE. Almost any sort of fish may be used in making bouil- labaise, and the more kinds the better. Those generally used, because caught in the Mediterranean, are whitings, red mullets, soles, gurnet, turbot, lobsters, and cray-fish. Slice two large onions, place them in a wide but deep stew-pan made of thin metal; add four or five spoonfuls of the best olive oil. Fry the onions of a pale brown colour. Next place the fish, previously washed and cut in small pieces, in the pan, and cover them with warm water, but not more than equals the depth of the con- tents; add salt in moderation, half a bay leaf, and the flesh of half a lemon without rind or pips, two tomatoes cut in dice and the seeds removed, a small tumbler of light white wine, a few peppercorns, and four cloves of garlic. Set it on a very hot stove, and let it boil for twelve minutes. By this time the liquor should be reduced to a third of its original quantity; add a small pinch of saffron, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and allow it to boil a minute longer; taste and correct the seasoning if required. Have ready your tureen or deep dish with two dozen slices of light French roll or bread, cut half an inch thick, laid in the bottom ; pour some of the soup over, and turn the bread, so that it may be thoroughly soaked; then pour in the remainder, keeping back the inferior parts of the fish, and serve very hot. This is sometimes varied by adding a liason made of the yolks of six or seven eggs, added to some of the soup, which is to be stirred quickly over the fire till it comes to the consistency of custard, and then poured over the slices of bread. SOUPS. 19 33. BOUILLABAISE A L'ANGLAISE. As the preceding receipt is often considered too strong for the English palate, this is in a milder form; it is excellent, and exceedingly nourishing and wholesome for an invalid. Take cod, mullet, whiting, turbot, or any other fish you like; cut them cro'ss ways, in pieces of from about two ounces to a quarter of a pound each. Slice two good-sized onions, place them in a stew-pan large enough to contain all the fish at the bottom,—a shallow pan is best. Add two tablespoonfuls of olive-oil; fry the onions a light brown; put in the fish with as much warm water as will cover them well, a teaspoonful of salt, half a one of pepper, half a bay leaf, the flesh of half a peeled lemon cut in dice, two tomatoes cut in slices and their seeds removed, two small glasses of sherry or other white wine, a few peppercorns, and half a clove of garlic. Set on a fierce "fire, and boil very fast for twelve minutes, or till the liquor is reduced to one-third. Then add a tablespoon- ful of chopped parsley, let it boil one minute longer, and pour it into a deep dish over slices of bread the same as the other. This is also very good made with all sorts of fresh-water fish, and the garlic may be entirely omitted. 34. OYSTER SOUP. Take eighty oysters and their liquor; place them in a pan with salt, cayenne pepper, and a teaspoonful of chopped chervil; when boiling add three yolks of eggs beat up in half a pint of cream, and serve. This is enough for five persons. If the oysters have not sufficient liquor, a little water and salt may be added, and parsley may be used, if preferred, instead of chervil. SAUCES. COLD SAUCES. 35. BALBIRNIE SAUCE FOR COLD PHEASANT. A SMALL shallot chopped as fine as possible, one spoonful of mustard, one tablespoonful of oiL Mix thoroughly and add a little salt, one tablespoonful of vinegar, and two of ketchup. This is excellent. 36. SAUCE PIQUANTE. One large spoonful of mustard, one of sugar, worked smooth together with a few drops of olive-oil, one table- spoonful of shallot or tarragon vinegar, or half a one of each, one of ketchup, and two of Harvey sauce. 37. HANOVERIAN SAUCE FOR BOAR'S HEAD, ETC. The outer rind of a lemon (a Seville orange is better) cut in very thin small slices, one tablespoonful of pounded- sugar; squeeze the juice of a lemon over the two together, add half a tablespoonful of mustard, two of oil, and two of port wine. This is an excellent sauce for wild duck. 38. SAUCE PROVEN^ALE. Put into a bason two raw yolks of eggs, a good pinch of salt and two spoonfuls of mustard, and a teaspoonful of SAUCES. ~ 21 tarragon vinegar. Take a spoon and beat it well and quickly. When it is well mixed add a few drops of com- mon vinegar and the same of oil; beat them well in as you add them, taking care never to put in too much oil at a time. Continue to add till you have enough sauce, and have worked it quite smooth and thick; then taste and season as it may require with salt, pepper, or more vinegar, and stir in some finely-chopped chervil, parsley, and tarragon. 39. SAUCE FOR COLD MEAT OR FISH. Shred parsley, a little shallot, and half a clove of garlic very fine. Rub them down in two spoonfuls of good oil and five yolks of eggs well beaten ; add a little salt and pepper, one spoonful of mustard, two of tarragon vinegar, or elder if preferred, and one of white wine. Continue beating till of a good consistence: it takes three-quarters of an hour to make it well. 40. DUTCH SAUCE FOR COLD MEAT. Beat up the white of an egg with a little white pepper and salt, a dessertspoonful of minced parsley, a small shallot and onion, a teaspoonful of mustard, and two tablespoonfuls of olive-oil. Whisk it well together, and add a spoonful of tarragon vinegar; grated horseradish may be added if liked. 41. SAUCE FOR COLD GAME, ETC. Rub the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs through a sieve; add two tablespoonfuls of salad oil, two of tarragon vinegar, one of chili, half a spoonful of walnut ket- SAUCES. —6– COLD SAUCES. 35. BALBIRNIE SAUCE FOR COLD PHEASANT. SMALL shallot chopped as fine as possible, one spoonful of mustard, one tablespoonful of oil. Mix thoroughly and add a little salt, one tablespoonful of vinegar, and two of ketchup. This is excellent. 36. SAUCE PIQUANTE. One large spoonful of mustard, one of sugar, worked smooth together with a few drops of olive-oil, one table- spoonful of shallot or tarragon vinegar, or half a one of each, one of ketchup, and two of Harvey sauce. 37. HANOVERLAN SAUCE FOR BOAR's HEAD, ETC. The outer rind of a lemon (a Seville orange is better) cut in very thin small slices, one tablespoonful of pounded- sugar; squeeze the juice of a lemon over the two together, add half a tablespoonful of mustard, two of oil, and two of port wine. This is an excellent sauce for wild duck. 38. SAUCE PROVENGALE. Put into a bason two raw yolks of eggs, a good pinch of salt and two spoonfuls of mustard, and a teaspoonful of SAUCES. y 21 tarragon vinegar. Take a spoon and beat it well and quickly. When it is well mixed add a few drops of com- mon vinegar and the same of oil; beat them well in as you add them, taking care never to put in too much oil at a time. Continue to add till you have enough sauce, and have worked it quite smooth and thick; then taste and season as it may require with salt, pepper, or more vinegar, and stir in some finely-chopped chervil, parsley, and tarragon. 39. SAUCE FOR COLD MEAT OR FISH. Shred parsley, a little shallot, and half a clove of garlic very fine. Eub them down in two spoonfuls of good oil and five yolks of eggs well beaten ; add a little salt and pepper, one spoonful of mustard, two of tarragon vinegar, or elder if preferred, and one of white wine. Continue beating till of a good consistence: it takes three-quarters of an hour to make it well. 40. DUTCH SAUCE FOR COLD MEAT. Beat up the white of an egg with a little white pepper and salt, a dessertspoonful of minced parsley, a small shallot and onion, a teaspoonful of mustard, and two tablespoonfuls of olive-oil. Whisk it well together, and add a spoonful of tarragon vinegar; grated horseradish may be added if liked. 41. SAUCE FOR COLD GAME, ETC. Rub the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs through a sieve; add two tablespoonfuls of salad oil, two of tarragon vinegar, one of chili, half a spoonful of walnut ket- 22 SAUCES. chup, and three of common vinegar, a small quantity of minced parsley and shallot, some pepper and salt. Add enough cream to make the consistence of thick custard. 42. SAUCE A LA TARTARS. Take two anchovies, wash them well; two yolks of hard- boiled eggs. Mince separately some parsley, shallot, or onion, and tarragon. Put all into a small bowl with a spoonful of French mustard, one of olive-oil, and one of vinegar, a little pepper and salt; beat with a wooden spoon till it is smooth. It is good with meat, fish, or game, with or without salad. 43. SAUCE PIQUANTE. Pound together two hard-boiled yolks of eggs, one ounce grated horseradish, half an ounce of salt, a tablespoonful of mustard, a little minced shallot, one teaspoonful of celery and one of cress-seed, a small quantity of cayenne. Add gradually a wine glassful of oil, and two of tarragon, horseradish, or cress-vinegar. Set it over a gentle fire, and stir with a wooden spoon till it is like thick cream, then let it cooL 44. COLD SAUCE FOR GROUSE, OR OTHER GAME. Mix the yolks of two raw eggs with a spoonful of salad- oil very smooth; then add three spoonfuls of vinegar, one of sugar, and three of finely-chopped parsley, green onion, and a little shallot; add some pepper and salt. Cut up your game, and just before serving, pour this sauce over it. SAUCES. 23 45. GERMAN SAUCE FOR BOILED BEEF. Take six ordinary sized potatoes, boil them in salt and water, skin them and let them cool, grate them with a sugar-grater; add the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, mix them well together ; then take four spoonfuls of fine olive oil and two of vinegar, and pass all through a hair sieve; add a little finely-minced parsley. This sauce should be pretty thick, but if it appears too much so, more vinegar may be added. This is enough for a large quantity. 46. MUSTARD SAUCE. A teacupful of mustard to be put into a dish with a tablespoonful of sugar, one of olive-oil, and a little salt; to be well mixed with the yolk of a hard-boiled egg rubbed down; add as much vinegar as will make it suf- ficiently liquid, and strain it through a sieve. 47. SAUCE A LA TARTARE. Chop one onion, two shallots, a little parsley and tar- ragon, and a few capers, very fine; two yolks of eggs boiled hard, rubbed down, and dissolved by a little drop of water. Mix all these well together, and add a spoonful of tarragon and one of plain vinegar; beat it well with a wooden spoon, adding by degrees a spoonful of olive-oil and mustard to your taste. This is a very good receipt, and is excellent with broiled fowl, or grouse, or eels, or salmon, and with cold meat of all kinds. 48. SAUCE 1 LA EAVIGOTE. Take capers, burnet, - chervil, tarragon, a few stalks of celery, and two balm leaves; pick and wash them; also 24 SAUCES. two anchovies. Mince the whole very fine, add a little fine pepper and salt, put all into a marble mortar, and beat till it is thoroughly mixed. While beating, add the yolk of a raw egg and a little olive-oil, and at intervals moisten it with a little white vinegar till it is of the con- sistence of thick cream. Mustard may be added, if liked, and chopped green chilis. 49. INDIAN SAUCE. Three apples, one large cucumber with the seeds taken out, two onions, eighteen fresh green chilis, and three tomatoes; to which add one small spoonful of cayenne. Mince all very fine, mix well together, put in a little salt, and cover with vinegar. It is ready for immediate use, but will keep a long time, and is excellent with cold meat. 50. POIVRADE SAUCE TO KEEP. Half a pint of the best vinegar, half a pint of water, two large onions, half a handful of horseradish, and a little pounded white pepper and salt. Boil all together for a quarter of an hour, strain it clear, and bottle it. This may be added to gravy when used. 51. MAYONNAISE. Take three spoonfuls of sauce allemande (see No. 86), six of aspic; add a spoonful of tarragon vinegar, a little pepper and salt, and' some finely-chopped herbs, such as tarragon, chervil, burnet, etc., or minced parsley alone. Add these, and then set the sauce on the ice to freeze till it becomes quite stiff. This may be used with fish or meat. SAUCES. 25 52. SAUCE EEMOULADE OR VINAIGRETTE. Put into a sauce-boat a shallot, a clove of garlic, some parsley and green onions, all minced very fine; add a little pepper, a spoonful of mustard, three tablespoonfuls of oil, and two of vinegar. This is very good with all cold meats. 53. MAYONNAISE. Choose two very white yolks of eggs, add to them a little fine salt, and two teaspoonfuls of tarragon vinegar; beat this quickly in a mortar or dish with a wooden spoon. When well mixed add by degrees a wineglassful of olive- oil and a little more vinegar. Work it well against the sides of the dish, as this makes it creamy and thick. You may add more oil or vinegar—either elder, tarragon, or shallot—as your sauce makes, and a spoonful of aspic jelly. It must be made very quickly in a dry cool place or it will curdle. If you have no ice to freeze it, and wish it to look very white, rub in a few drops of cold water. 54. THE SAME 1 LA EAVIGOTE. Blanch a ravigote of tarragon, scallions, and chervil for five or six minutes in boiling water; let them cool, squeeze and pound them; add a spoonful of mayonnaise. When it is well incorporated strain and mix by degrees with the above mayonnaise. i 55. BEURRE A LA MATTRE D'H6TEL. Put on a plate a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a quarter of a spoonful of salt, and one of pepper, two of 26 SAUCES. chopped parsley, the juice of a middle-sized lemon (if you have no lemon you can use vinegar), and a very little cayenne. Mix all well together and keep it in a cool place. This is good with kidneys, and all broiled meat and fish. 56. ANCHOVY BUTTER. Take six anchovies, scrape and wash them, bruise them on a board, and mix six ounces of fresh butter with them; pass through a sieve, and keep in a cold place for use. 57. PIMENTO BUTTER. Two ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of chilis chopped fine, one of parsley, a piece of garlic the size of a small pea scraped, half a spoonful of salt, a little pepper, and the juice of half a lemon—all well mixed. 58. SHALLOT BUTTER. A quarter of a pound of butter, a teaspoonful of chopped shallot, a little cayenne, salt, and pepper, half a teaspoon- ful of mustard, and the juice of a lemon; mix all well together. These butters are all good for cold or broiled meats and salads. 59. BEURRE DE MONTPELLIER. Take a handful of chervil, tarragon, burnet, and green onions or chives; wash them very clean and blanch them in boiling water with a handful of salt, which keeps them green; let them boil six minutes, and put them into cold water to-cool; have ready eight hard-boiled yolks of eggs; drain the herbs, and squeeze all the water out of them; SAUCES. 27 put them into a mortar, and pound them to a pulp; add the yolks of eggs, ten anchovies (washed and honed), two spoonfuls of capers, a very little bit of garlic (this may be omitted if not liked), some salt, a little cayenne, and a small quantity of mustard. Pound all this together till quite smooth, then add half a pound of very fresh butter, a spoonful of olive-oil, and one of elder or tarragon vinegar. Taste if it requires more seasoning, and rub it all through a sieve. None of the herbs should predomi- nate; and if not green enough, add some spinach or parsley juice. Put it on the ice, and use it for anything cold, such as salads of fish, game, etc. To make the greening of spinach or parsley, pick and wash two large handfuls of spinach or parsley; pound them in a mortar; squeeze them through a tammy, and pour all the juice into a small stew-pan; set it on the fire, but take care it does not boil; and when it just begins to curdle, strain it through a silk sieve, and use as re- quired. 60. SALAD SAUCE. The yolks of three raw fresh eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, and the same quantity of mustard; beat it well together one minute, then add and mix, by little at a time, three tablespoonfuls of the finest olive-oil, and one of the best vinegar. 61. SALAD SAUCE. Yolks of two hard-boiled eggs well bruised, two table- spoonfuls of oil well mixed, the same of vinegar, a tea- spoonful of chili vinegar, and the same of salt and mustard. 28 SAUCES. 62. BALBIRNIE SALAD SAUCE. Two eggs boiled twenty-five minutes and well bruised, two spoonfuls of salt, two yolks of raw fresh eggs, eight tablespoonfuls of oil, mixed slowly in a cup with a wooden spoon. When half the oil is mixed in, a little at a time, add half a teaspoonful of mustard, and then the remainder of the oil—by so doing it will become as thick as a paste; then add two tablespoonfuls of French tarra- gon vinegar, and mix well. This is excellent to eat with beetroot. 63. GEKMAN SALAD SAUCE. Six tablespoonfuls of oil, and eight of the best'vinegar, two of tarragon vinegar, and one of chili, and a small quantity of cayenne pepper; stir together and mix well with the salad. The red wine vinegar of Germany and olive-oil, mixed in the proportion of one tablespoonful of vinegar to two of oil, and a little salt and pepper, makes the best possible summer salad sauce. 64. SALAD SAUCE. The yolk of one hard-boiled egg mixed with one raw one and a little water, a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of mixed cayenne and black pepper, and one of mustard, a tablespoonful of vinegar, one of anchovy sauce, and five of either oil or thick cream. Cream may generally be substituted for oil in salad sauces. SAUCES. 29 COLD SAUCES TO KEEP. 65. A USEFUL SAUCE FOR COLD MEAT, ETC. Half a pint of mushroom ketchup, three anchovies, a gill of walnut ketchup, four fresh green chilis, two shallots or cloves of garlic—pound them together; if you have no chilis, use a large pinch of cayenne; mix it well, bottle, and stop it close. 66. A CHUTNEE SAUCE. Pulp five or six roasted apples, colour them with turmeric and beetroot juice till they are the colour of a tomato, add a tablespoonful of chili vinegar, a clove of garlic, a shallot, a small quantity of cayenne and salt; simmer gently for some time. It ought to be of the consistency of thick cream. When cool, put into half-pint bottles, and cork it down. 67. A GOOD SAUCE. Haricots one quart, vinegar and water of each half a pint, three heaped spoonfuls of grated horseradish, a sliced lemon, a few chilis, twenty cloves, a few bits of nutmeg; simmer gently till the water is evaporated. When cool, add half a pint of walnut or mushroom ketchup, and the same of essence of anchovy. 68. FISH SAUCE TO KEEP. Dissolve six anchovies in a glass of port wine, bruise six shallots and boil them in a quart of walnut ketchup, 30 SAUCES. with a few cloves, a couple of blades of mace, and some whole pepper, for about half an hour; let it cool, mix in the anchovies, add half a pint of port wine. 69. ANOTHER. Port wine one bottle; sherry, walnut, and mushroom ketchups, of each half a bottle; the juice of four small Seville oranges; shallot and horseradish, of each half a pound; two ounces of made mustard, and a quarter of an ounce of cayenne. This is an excellent sauce. 70. SAUCE "VOLAGE." Pound well in a mortar six anchovies, six shallots, four cloves of garlic, half an ounce of cayenne pepper, and add one pint of vinegar. Put altogether into a jar, let it stand ten days, strain it through muslin, and bottle for use. It is much improved by keeping. 71. GUNNER'S DELIGHT. Half a pound of sharp apples, half a pound of onions, both raw, to be chopped fine and well mixed; add two or three chilis, cover the whole entirely with best white vinegar. 72. CAMP VINEGAR. One head of garlic cut in slices, half an ounce of cayenne, a large glass of soy, one of mushroom or walnut ketchup, a pint of the best vinegar, and a little spirit of cochi- neal to give it a fine colour. Shake it often for five or six weeks; filter, and bottle it in small bottles. SAUCES. 31 73. SHALLOT VINEGAR. Split six or eight shallots, put them into a quart bottle, and fill it up with the best vinegar, stop it close, and in a month it will be fit for use. 74. TARRAGON VINEGAR. Fill a wide-mouthed bottle with fresh-gathered tarragon leaves; they are best between Midsummer and Michael- mas, just before flowering, and should be gathered on a dry day. Pick the leaves off the stalks and dry them a little before the fire, cover them with the best vinegar; let them steep fourteen days, then strain, bottle, and cork it well; keep it in a dry place. Elderflower, chervil, basil, burnet, and many other herbs, may be made to flavour vinegar in the same way. 75. AN EXCELLENT VlNEGAE FOR SALADS. Take tarragon, savory, chives, and shallots, each three ounces; a handful of the tops of mint and balm, all dried and pounded. Put them into a wide-mouthed bottle with a gallon of the best vinegar, cork it close, set it in the sun, and in a fortnight strain it off" and squeeze the herbs. Let it stand to settle, then strain through a filtering-bag and bottle it. 76. MUSHROOM KETCHUP. Chop two pecks of mushrooms small, add a pound of salt; let it stand four days, then strain and pass it through a cloth; let the liquor settle and pour it off into a stew- pan; add half an ounce of allspice, the same of whole 32 SAUCES. pepper, and a piece of ginger. Boil all together for half an hour; when cold strain and bottle. 77. TOMATO KETCHUP. Half a bushel of tomatoes boiled till they are soft; rub them through a fine hair sieve, and add a quarter of a gallon of the best vinegar, half a pint of salt, one ounce of cloves, one of cayenne pepper, two ounces of allspice, two heads of garlic skinned and separated. Mix all to- gether, and boil three hours, or until the quantity is re- duced one half. Bottle without straining. 78. A GOOD SAUCE. Black pepper, pounded allspice, and salt, of each an ounce; half an ounce of minced shallot, one pint of mushroom ketchup, a tablespoonful of port wine, and a teaspoon- ful of chili vinegar. Set the bottle for twenty-four hours in 90° of heat; let it stand for a week, then strain and bottle it. It is excellent added to gravy for cutlets. HOT SAUCES. Eoux, OR THICKENING FOR SAUCES. This is of two kinds, brown and white, and is the founda- tion of many sauces, and although very simple requires the greatest attention in making, and should always be kept in readiness for use. . SAUCES. 33 79. BROWN Eoux. Melt some butter very slowly, stir into it browned flour— which is easily made by laying a quantity of fine flour on a dish before the fire, or in a moderate oven, till it is of a fine even brown, not too dark; add as much to the butter as will make it the thickness of paste, stirring well with a wooden spoon for fifteen or twenty minutes till it is of a yellowish brown colour. This must be done gradually, with care and patience; if the fire is too hot it will become bitter and spoil everything it is put into; when cold it should be thick enough to cut with a knife. It will keep a fortnight. 80. WHITE Eoux. Melt some good fresh butter slowly and stir into it the best sifted flour till like a thin firm paste; stir it well over a slow fire for a quarter of an hour, taking care it does not brown. This is used for thickening white sauces. Pour it into jars to keep for use. 81. CLEAR GRAVY or VEAL FOR SAUCES. Lay in the bottom of a stew a small slice of fat bacon; on that place four pounds of leg of veal, a slice of raw ham, two onions, two carrots, and some parsley; add three spoonfuls of stock, cover it close, set it upon a slow fire, till it becomes dry and brown. Take the greatest care it does not burn, and move the pan round frequently that it may not colour more in one part than another. Pour in four quarts of stock, and let it simmer for half an hour, and strain through a lawn sieve. It should be a fine amber colour, and as clear as possible. 34 SAUCES. 82. BROWN GRAVY FOR SAUCES. Cut eight pounds of the lean part of a knuckle of veal into small pieces, with two pounds of lean ham, and if you have an old fowl you may add it. Put all in a stew- pan, with one ounce of butter, three onions, two carrots, eight mushrooms, one head of celery, one parsnip, a blade of mace, and a quarter of a pint of water or stock. Let it stew slowly, with the cover on the pan, till it catches at the bottom, then add four quarts more water or stock, let it boil gently, and strain it. 83. CULLIS, OR BROWN SAUCE. Put six pounds of lean veal, cut in slices, and two pounds of raw lean ham into a stew-pan, with two ounces of butter, a handful of chopped mushrooms, three onions, one carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, the rind of a lemon, and a teaspoonful of mixed allspice, clove, and mace. Let it just brown at the bottom, then add four quarts of good brown gravy, and let it boil three or four hours; strain it off, thicken it with brown roux, and boil it well for ten minutes, stirring all the time, then pass it through a tammy. 84. BECHAMEL, OR WHITE SAUCE. Chop two pounds of veal and one pound of ham in small pieces, a dozen of mushrooms and two onions sliced, four cloves, two blades of mace, a sprig of thyme and marjoram, and a quarter of a pound of butter; add three pints of white gravy, and let all stew gently one hour and a half. Mix some of the gravy with two tea- SAUCES. 3.") cupfuls of flour, and add it to a quart of cream. Put this into your stock, let it boil a quarter of an hour, stirring it well that it may not burn at the bottom; strain, and season with salt. 85. SAUCE TOUKNEE Is made of the same ingredients, and in the same pro- portion, as cullis. When boiled three hours, strain it; add half a pound of butter and two teacupfuls of flour; boil well together for half an hour, stirring that it may not brown. This sauce is used in fish or vegetable salads. - 86. SAUCE ALLEMANDK Put a little minced ham into a stew-pan with a few trim- mings of poultry either dressed or raw, three shallots, half a small clove of garlic, a bay leaf, two tarragon leaves, and a few spoonfuls of stock. Let them simmer for half an hour, strain it off, and add some cullis ; squeeze in a lemon. Season to taste with pepper, salt, cayenne, and sugar. The above are all stock sauces, the foundation for others. 87. SAUCE VELOUTE. Heat in melted butter one pound of veal and any bits of fowl you may have, together with a dozen good-sized mushrooms: do not let them brown; then put them into a saucepan, with two carrots and onions, a large table- spoonful of flour, salt, pepper, a little mixed spice, and as much veal gravy as will cover them. Let it boil up, skim off the fat, and let it simmer for an hour and a half; strain, and keep it covered for use. 36 SAUCES. 88. SAUCE A L' Put about a pint of cullis in a stew-pan, with a largish glass of white wine, the same of good broth, a bunch of parsley, a few small onions, a clove of garlic, two cloves, a bay leaf, a small pinch of coriander-seeds, an onion, a carrot, and a parsnip cut in slices; add two spoonfuls of oil. Boil for two hours over a very gentle fire, remove the grease, and pass through a sieve; season with salt and whole pepper. This sauce is good with all sorts of meat. 89. WHITE SAUCE FOR CHICKEN, VEAL, OR VEGETABLES. To a pint of good veal gravy add a spoonful of lemon- juice, half an anchovy, a teaspoonful of mushroom- powder, a few button mushrooms, potted or fresh. Give them a gentle boil, then put in half a pint of cream and the yolks of two eggs beaten very smooth. Shake it over the fire, after the cream and eggs are added, but do not let it boil, as it would curdle the cream. 90. HAM SAUCE. When a ham is nearly done, pick the meat that is left clean from the bone, leaving out any part that does not appear good; beat the meat and the bone to a mash with a rolling-pin; put it into a saucepan with three spoonfuls of gravy, set it over a slow fire, and stir it all the time or it will stick to the bottom. When it has been on about half an hour, add to it a small bundle of sweet herbs, some pepper, and half a pint of brown SAUCES. 37 gravy; cover it up, and let it stew over a gentle fire. When it has a good flavour of the herbs, strain it off. A little of this improves most gravies and sauces. 91. SAUCE HACKEE. Take a large tablespoonful of chopped onions, the same of parsley, and a little gravy. Boil them together five minutes, then add a tablespoonful of minced pickled cucumbers, another of boiled carrots chopped small, and a third of capers; add half a pint of cullis. Boil all together for a few minutes, season with salt, a little sugar, and the juice of half a lemon. Good for cutlets, etc. 92. SAUCE POULETTE. Beat up six yolks of eggs with two spoonfuls of cream, the juice of one lemon, and half a pint of bechamel or white sauce. Heat all together, add some shred sorrel; season with salt and a little cayenne. Good for boiled fowls and chickens. 93. SAUCE PIQUANTE. Boil a tablespoonful of chopped onion, parsley, and mushroom together in a little butter for five minutes; add a quarter of a pint of cullis, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and season with salt and cayenne. Let it boil one minute, and serve with cutlets, broiled fowl, etc. 94. SAUCE A LA DUSSELLE. Put a little butter into a stew-pan with an equal quantity of rasped bacon, some fine herbs, parsley, a little shallot, 38 SAUCES. and some mushrooms, all minced fine; season with pepper and salt, and stew over a slow fire. Beat the yolks of four eggs with the juice of a lemon, aud when the herbs are just done pour them in to thicken the sauce, which it will not do if the herbs are too much stewed. This is used for cfitelettes a la Majntenon, sweetbreads, fat livers, etc. 95. SAUCE 1 LA MA!TRE D'H6xEL. Chop six shallots, one teaspoonful of parsley, one of fennel, and a dozen mushrooms fine. Let them boil together for five minutes in two ounces of butter; add half a pint of cullis, boil ten minutes more; season with salt and pepper and the squeeze of a lemon. If for a white Maitre d'H6tel, use the same quantity of be- chamel instead of cullis. 96. MAiTRE D'H6TEL MAIGRE Is nothing more than melted butter with a little chopped parsley, and a little shallot if liked, seasoned with salt, pepper, and lemon-juice. 97. TRUFFLE-SAUCE. Pare eighteen truffles and slice them, boil them together in two ounces of butter till tender, add half a pint of bechamel or cullis, according as you wish your sauce white or brown; season with salt and the squeeze of a lemon. Mushroom-sauce may be made in the same way. 98. ITALIAN SAUCE. Chop four cloves of garlic, six shallots, five mushrooms, SAUCES. 39 and a teacupful of parsley fine; add two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, and boil them together for five minutes; add half a pint of cullis (or bechamel if for white sauce), and a glass of white wine; season with pepper and salt. The wine may be omitted. 99. TOMATO-SAUCE. Remove the seeds from a dozen tomatoes; put them in a stew-pan, with an onion, a few pieces of ham, a clove, and a sprig of thyme. When quite boiled down, rub them through a tammy; and to the pure'e add a few spoonfuls of cullis, a little salt and pepper, and boil it for twenty minutes. 100. TOMATO-SAUCE TO KEEP. Take tomatoes when quite ripe, bake them till tender, skin them, and rub them through a sieve; to every pound of tomatoes add one quart of chili vinegar, a quarter of an ounce of white pepper, half an ounce of salt, one ounce of garlic, and one of shallot, with the juice of three lemons. Boil the whole together till it becomes the consistency of thick cream; strain it through a very fine sieve; let it stand till cold, and bottle it for use in wide-mouthed bottles. This is excellent for fish, cutlets, etc., and may be used merely heated up, or a few spoonfuls of cullis added to a sufficiency of it. 101. SPANISH EECEIPT FOR A TOMATO-SAUCE TO KEEP. Boil white sugar, in the proportion of an ounce to each tomato, until it becomes candied; add a fourth part of 38 SAUCES. and some mushrooms, all minced fine; season with pepper and salt, and stew over a slow fire. Beat the yolks of four eggs with the juice of a lemon, aud when the herbs are just done pour them in to thicken the sauce, which it will not do if the herbs are too much stewed. This is used for côtelettes à la Maintenon,sweetbreads,fat livers, etc. 95. SAUCE A LA MATTRE D'HôTEL. Chop six shallots, one teaspoonful of parsley, one of fennel, and a dozen mushrooms fine. Let them boil together for five minutes in two ounces of butter; add half a pint of cullis, boil ten minutes more; season with salt and pepper and the squeeze of a lemon. If for a white Maitre d’Hôtel, use the same quantity of bé- chamel instead of cullis. 96. MAftRE D'HôTEL MAIGRE Is nothing more than melted butter with a little chopped parsley, and a little shallot if liked, seasoned with salt, pepper, and lemon-juice. - 97. TRUFFLE-SAUCE. Pare eighteen truffles and slice them, boil them together in two ounces of butter till tender, add half a pint of béchamel or cullis, according as you wish your sauce white or brown; season with salt and the squeeze of a lemon. Mushroom-sauce may be made in the same Way. 98. ITALIAN SAUCE. Chop four cloves of garlic, six shallots, five mushrooms, SAUCES. 30 and a teacupful of parsley fine ; add two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, and boil them together for five minutes; add half a pint of cullis (or béchamel if for white sauce), and a glass of white wine ; season with pepper and salt. The wine may be omitted. 99. TOMATO-SAUCE. Remove the seeds from a dozen tomatoes; put them in a stew-pan, with an onion, a few pieces of ham, a clove, and a sprig of thyme. When quite boiled down, rub them through a tammy; and to the purée add a few spoonfuls of cullis, a little salt and pepper, and boil it for twenty minutes. 100. ToMATO-SAUCE TO KEEP. Take tomatoes when quite ripe, bake them till tender, skin them, and rub them through a sieve; to every pound of tomatoes add one quart of chili vinegar, a quarter of an ounce of white pepper, half an ounce of salt, one ounce of garlic, and one of shallot, with the juice of three lemons. Boil the whole together till it becomes the consistency of thick cream ; strain it through a very fine sieve ; let it stand till cold, and bottle it for use in wide-mouthed bottles. This is excellent for fish, cutlets, etc., and may be used merely heated up, or a few spoonfuls of cullis added to a sufficiency of it. 101. SPANISH RECEIPT FOR A TOMATO-SAUCE TO KEEP. Boil white sugar, in the proportion of an ounce to each tomato, until it becomes candied; add a fourth part of 40 SAUCES. the quantity of tomatoes you have of onions, and when they begin to colour put in the tomatoes; season with salt, pepper, a few cloves, and a little nutmeg. Boil the whole over a very quick fire ; when sufficiently thick, strain it through a hair sieve. Set it on the fire again immediately, and boil till it is very thick. Put it into jelly-pots; cover with two papers, the first one oiled, and keep in a cool dark place. This may be made in the same manner, but omitting the Onions. 102. SAUCE PIQUANTE. Put into a stew-pan three or four slices of ham, three shallots cut small, a few peppercorns, and four wine- glasses of sherry. Let it simmer for twenty minutes, then add about half a pint of cullis. Let it stew a quarter of an hour longer; skim it well; season to your taste with salt and pepper, and strain through a fine sieve. Good with various entrées, kromeskies, etc. 103. RELISHING SAUCE FOR BROILED BONES, CHICKEN, OR FISH. Put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stew-pan, with one of chili vinegar, one of common vinegar, three of water, two of mushroom ketchup, two of Harvey's sauce, and one of anchovy. Add to it a pint of melted butter; let it simmer till it adheres to the back of the spoon; add half a teaspoonful of sugar, and it is ready for use. 104. SAUCE AU JUS D'ORANGE. Put half a glass of good stock in a stew-pan, and the same of brown gravy, a Seville orange peel grated, a piece SAUCES. 4} of butter mixed with floºr about half the size of an egg, and a little salt and pepper. Set it on the stove, and when it thickens, squeeze in the juice of a Seville orange. This is good for wild duck, game, and poultry. 105. SAUCE FOR WILD DUCKS. Four tablespoonfuls of gravy, two of Harvey sauce, two spoonfuls of mustard, a quarter of a lemon squeezed, four small wineglassfuls of port wine, half a saltspoon of cayenne pepper. Make it very hot, and serve. 106. SAUCE FOR TEAL OR WILD FOWL. A small onion and a shallot chopped fine, four or five leaves of sweet basil, and the peel of a lemon shred small, put into half a pint of gravy. Let this boil five minutes; strain, and add a spoonful of salt, half a one of cayenne pepper, a few drops of shallot vinegar, the juice of a lemon, and a glass of port wine. Serve it very hot. 107. SAUCE ROYAL. Boil for four or five minutes six shallots in a table- spoonful of sweet oil; add half a pint of sauce tournée (No. 85), a glass of white wine or champagne; strain it, and stir in two tablespoonfuls of cream. 108. SAUCE A LA REINE. Pound the breast of a fowl very fine ; add to it a pint of béchamel (No. 84) and half a pint of cream, a little salt, and a few drops of lemon-juice. 42 SAUCES. 109. LEMON SAUCE FOR BOILED FOWL OR RABBIT. The inside of one lemon peeled, and the pips removed, cut in dice; the liver of the fowl or rabbit minced, half a pint of béchamel or melted butter. Season with salt ; add a little minced parsley for rabbit, or tarragon for the fowl. Boil on a slow fire. 110. GREEN SAUCE FOR DUCKLINGS. Mix a quarter of a pint of sorrel-juice with a glass of broth or gravy; scald some green gooseberries, rub them through a sieve ; add a little sugar and a small piece of butter. Set it on the fire and make it very hot. This is also very good for green goose. 111. APPLE-SAUCE. Pare, core, and slice as many apples as you require for your sauce; put them into a pipkin with two or three spoonfuls of water, and set them on a hot hearth, till they fall to pieces. Or they may be done au bain marée— i.e., set the pipkin in a vessel of boiling water to boil till they are done ; then mash them well, and add a little brown sugar. 112. BREAD-SAUCE. Boil a good-sized onion cut in four, and some black peppercorns, in milk, till the onion is quite a pap, then strain the milk on to grated white stale bread-crumbs; cover it close, and let it stand for an hour; put it into a saucepan with a piece of butter rolled in flour ; beat it well together over the fire, and serve. SAUCES. 43 113. BREAD-SAUCE. Boil the crumb of a French roll and a whole onion in half a pint of cream ; add one ounce of butter and twelve peppercorns. When done take out the onion, beat up your sauce, and season with salt and pepper. 114. SAUCE POIVRADE. Take a bit of butter about the size of half an egg, two or three onions according to their size; cut in slices also carrots and parsnips; shred two cloves, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme and sweet basil, and a little flour. Put all together in a saucepan, and set it on the fire to brown; then put in a glass of red wine, a glass of water, and a spoonful of vinegar. Let it boil half an hour, strain through a sieve, and add a little salt and whole pepper. This is good for all game. 115. SAUCE AU PETIT MAïTRE. A glass of white wine, half a lemon cut in slices, a piece of crumb of bread chopped small, two teaspoon- fuls of salad oil, a bunch of parsley, two or three small onions, two cloves, a few leaves of tarragon, a clove of garlic, a little. Salt and pepper, and a glass of good broth. Put all in a stew-pan, set it on a gentle fire to boil for a quarter of an hour; remove the grease, strain through a sieve, and serve. This is good for either poultry or game. 116. SAUCE A LA MARQUISE. Take a handful of chopped bread-crumb, a piece of 40 SAUCES. the quantity of tomatoes you have of onions, and when they begin to colour put in the tomatoes; season with salt, pepper, a few cloves, and a little nutmeg. Boil the whole over a very quick fire; when sufficiently thick, strain it through a hair sieve. Set it on the fire again immediately, and boil till it is very thick. Put it into jelly-pots; cover with two papers, the first one oiled, and keep in a cool dark place. This may be made in the same manner, but omitting the onions. 102. SAUCE PIQUANTE. Put into a stew-pan three or four slices of ham, three shallots cut small, a few peppercorns, and four wine- glasses of sherry. Let it simmer for twenty minutes, then add about half a pint of cullis. Let it stew a quarter of an hour longer; skim it well; season to your taste with salt and pepper, and strain through a fine sieve. Good with various entries, kromeskies, etc. 103. EELISHING SAUCE FOR BROILED BONES, CHICKEN, OR FISH. Put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stew-pan, with one of chili vinegar, one of common vinegar, three of water, two of mushroom ketchup, two of Harvey's sauce, and one of anchovy. Add to it a pint of melted butter; let it simmer till it adheres to the back of the spoon; add half a teaspoonful of sugar, and it is ready for use. 104. SAUCE AU Jus D'ORANGE. Put half a glass of good stock in a stew-pan, and the same of brown gravy, a Seville orange peel grated, a piece SAUCES. 4) of butter mixed with flowfcr about half the size of an egg, and a little salt and pepper. Set it on the stove, and when it thickens, squeeze in the juice of a Seville orange. This is good for wild duck, game, and poultry. 105. SAUCE FOR WILD DUCKS. Four tablespoonfuls of gravy, two of Harvey sauce, two spoonfuls of mustard, a quarter of a lemon squeezed, four small wineglassfuls of port wine, half a saltspoon of cayenne pepper. Make it very hot, and serve. 106. SAUCE FOR TEAL OR WILD FOWL. A small onion and a shallot chopped fine, four or five leaves of sweet basil, and the peel of a lemon shred small, put into half a pint of gravy. Let this boil five minutes; strain, and add a spoonful of salt, half a one of cayenne pepper, a few drops of shallot vinegar, the juice of a lemon, and a glass of port wine. Serve it very hot. 107. SAUCE ROYAL. Boil for four or five minutes six shallots in a table- spoonful of sweet oil; add half a pint of sauce tournee (No. 85), a glass of white wine or champagne; strain it,- and stir in two tablespoonfuls of cream. 108. SAUCE A LA REINE. Pound the breast of a fowl very fine; add to it a pint of be'chamel (No. 84) and half a pint of cream, a little salt, and a few drops of lemon-juice. 42 SAUCES. 109. LEMON SAUCE FOR BOILED FOWL OR RABBIT. The inside of one lemon peeled, and the pips removed, cut in dice; the liver of the fowl or rabbit minced, half a pint of be'chamel or melted butter. Season with salt; add a little minced parsley for rabbit, or tarragon for the fowl. Boil on a slow fire. 110. GREEN SAUCE FOR DUCKLINGS. Mix a quarter of a pint of sorrel-juice with a glass of broth or gravy; scald some green gooseberries, rub them through a sieve; add a little sugar and a small piece of butter. Set it on the fire and make it very hot. This is also very good for green goose. 111. APPLE-SAUCE. Pare, core, and slice as many apples as you require for your sauce; put them into a pipkin with two or three spoonfuls of water, and set them on a hot hearth, till they fall to pieces. Or they may be done au bain marte— i.e., set the pipkin in a vessel of boiling water to boil till they are done; then mash them well, and add a little brown sugar. 112. BREAD-SAUCE. Boil a good-sized onion cut in four, and some black peppercorns, in milk, till the onion is quite a pap, then strain the milk on to grated white stale bread-crumbs; cover it close, and let it stand for an hour; put it into a saucepan with a piece of butter rolled in flour ; beat it well together over the fire, and serve. SAUCES. 43 113. BREAD-SAUCE. Boil the crumb of a French roll and a whole onion in half a pint of cream; add one ounce of butter and twelve peppercorns. When done take out the onion, beat up your sauce, and season with salt and pepper. 114. SAUCE POIVRADE. Take a bit of butter about the size of half an egg, two or three onions according to their size; cut in slices also carrots and parsnips; shred two cloves, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme and sweet basil, and a little flour. Put all together in a saucepan, and set it on the fire to brown ; then put in a glass of red wine, a glass of water, and a spoonful of vinegar. Let it boil half an hour, strain through a sieve, and add a little salt and whole pepper. This is good for all game. 115. SAUCE AU PETIT MA!TRE. A glass of white wine, half a lemon cut in slices, a piece of crumb of bread chopped small, two teaspoon- fuls of salad oil, a bunch of parsley, two or three small onions, two cloves, a few leaves of tarragon, a clove of garlic, a little, salt and pepper, and a glass of good broth. Put all in a stew-pan, set it on a gentle fire to boil for a quarter of an hour; remove the grease, strain through a sieve, and serve. This is good for either poultry or game. 116. SAUCE 1 LA MARQUISE. Take a handful of chopped bread-crumb, a piece of 44 SAUCES. butter the size of half-a-crown, a tablespoonful of the best olive-oil, a shallot minced fine, some salt, whole pepper, and as much vinegar as will cover all. Put it into a stew-pan, and stir with a spoon over the fire till it boils. Good with all sorts of meat. 117. GREEN SAUCE FOR BOILED CHICKEN. Take a teacupful of spinach-juice, add the juice of one lemon, two yolks of eggs beat up, and a teaspoonful of sugar. Just heat, and serve. 118: A GOOD GRAVY FOR GAME OR FOWL. Boil some veal gravy with pepper and salt, and the juice of a Seville orange and a lemon. 119. ONION-SAUCE. Peel the onions and boil them tender; squeeze the water from them; chop, and add to them butter that has been melted rich and smooth with milk instead of water. Boil it up once. For boiled rabbits, shoulder of mutton, etc. 120. ONION-SAUCE BROWN. , Eoast four large onions, peel and pulp them into a rich stock with salt, cayenne, a glass of port wine, a little vinegar, or the juice of half a lemon; simmer and stir into it a small piece of butter. Good for cutlets, etc. 121. PUREE OF SORREL. Wash and pick some sorrel, and put it in a stew-pan with a little water; keep stirring to prevent its burning; SAUCES. 45 when tender lay it on a hair-sieve to drain; then chop it fine, and put it back in the stew-pan with a little butter. Let it fry, stirring it often till all the water is absorbed out of it. Mix into it four spoonfuls of cullis, or more if you require a large quantity, and let it boil for an hour; then rub it through a tammy; if it should be too thick dilute with a little broth. If plain sorrel is thought too acid, some lettuce may be mixed with it. Endive may be done in the same way. For sweetbreads, frican- deau, etc. 122. CELERY-SAUCE. Choose some good stalks of celery, wash them well, but do not let them soak, in water; pare instead of scrape any parts that may require it; cut it into small pieces and boil in a little water till quite tender. Strain off the water and simmer it for a few minutes, with the addition of half a pint of cream, a small piece of butter rolled in flour, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Be careful that your fire is not too hot, or the cream will burn, and stir it all the time it is on gently. Good for boiled poultry and game. 123. TARRAGON-SAUCE. Chop a handful of the green leaves of tarragon; boil them for five minutes in a little water; add half a pint of bechamel. Season with salt and cayenne. For boiled fowl, fillets of chicken, etc. 124. CURRY-SAUCE. Peel and cut two good-sized onions in slices, an apple SAUCES. 47 minutes should be enough to do it. If too thick, add a few drops of milk. 128. MUSHROOM GRAVY. Clean your mushrooms carefully; put them into a stew- pan with a piece either of bacon or butter; brown them over the stove till they stick to the bottom of the pan, then put in a little flour, and let that also brown; add a pint of broth, let it boil for two minutes, take it off the fire, and season with the squeeze of a lemon and a little salt. 129. HORSERADISH SAUCE. Grate a stalk of horseradish very fine; to each table- spoonful of this add a teaspoonful of mustard, one of white sugar, and a little salt; add vinegar, a teaspoonful at a time, working it well till it comes to a proper consistency. The yolk of a hard-boiled egg worked in is considered an improvement by some cooks. For roast beef. 130. SAUCE APPETISSANTE. Mustard one large spoonful, a tablespoonful of sugar worked into it; two tablespoonfuls of Harvey sauce; a teaspoonful of shallot, elder, and chili vinegars, and a tablespoonful of claret or port wine. French mustard may be added or other vinegars, or the proportion of each varied to taste. Put the whole in a silver dish over a lamp. Put in your slices of meat of any kind, or hot or cold game; let it cook till very hot. This is excellent, and will revive and stimulate the most jaded appetite. 43 SAUCES. 131. SAUCE FOR A GRILL. Half a pint of gravy, one ounce of butter well rubbed together with a tablespoonful of flour, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, two teaspoonfuls of lemon-juice, one of made mustard, one of capers, half a one of whole back pepper, a very little grated lemon-peel, a teaspoon- ful of shallot vinegar, and one of essence of anchovy, and a few grains of cayenne pepper. Stir well together, simmer till very hot, and pour over your grilL 132. SAUCE FOR VENISON. To a pint of port wine add two pounds of moist sugar and a quarter of a pint of white wine vinegar. Boil it about twenty minutes. Good with stewed venison or hash. FISH SAUCES. 133. FISH SAUCE WITHOUT BUTTER. Simmer very gently a pint of vinegar with half a pint of soft water, an onion, half a handful of scraped horseradish, and the following spices lightly bruised—four cloves, two blades of mace, and half a teaspoonful of black pepper. When the onion is quite tender take it out, and chop it small, with two anchovies, and set the whole again on the fire to boil for a few minutes, adding a spoon- ful of ketchup. Have ready well beaten the yolks of three eggs; strain; then mix the liquor by degrees with them; when well mixed set the saucepan over a gentle -. SAUCES. 49 fire; toss the sauce to and fro from the saucepan into a bason you will hold in your hand, and shake the pan over the fire; do not let it boil. The sauce should be of the consistency of melted butter. 134. LOBSTER-SAUCE. Pound the spawn and two anchovies, pour on them a little gravy, add a small bit of butter; when pounded very fine rub it through a hair-sieve, and cover it till it is wanted. Break the lobster carefully, cut all the flesh into dice, but not too small; dilute some of your prepared spawn in some melted butter, and if you have no anchovies to pound with it, you may now add two tea- spoonfuls of essence of anchovies, a little salt, and cay- enne pepper, two spoonfuls of double cream, and mix it all well before you add the meat to it. Let it simmer on the fire taking care it does not boil. A squeeze of lemon may be added. It should look very red and smooth. 135. OYSTER-SAUCE. Beard three dozen good-sized oysters; put them in a stew- pan with their own liquor, eix ounces of butter, and a tablespoonful of flour. Let them just boil one minute all together, then add a teacupful of cream. Season with pepper, salt, the squeeze of a lemon, and a very little cayenne. 136. SAUCE FOR CARP. Put half 'a pint of Lisbon wine in a small stew-pan, to which add a little minced parsley, thyme, and a small onion, four anchovies, the liver of the fish, two spoonfuls of vinegar and one of ketchup. Let them boil ten minutes; E 50 . SAUCES. then put in three spoonfuls of gravy, a quarter of a pound of butter and a little flour; set it on the fire again and keep stirring till it is ready to boil; then strain it through a hair-sieve. This is also good for mullets, etc. 137. SAUCE HOLLANDAISE (a real Dutch receipt). The yolks of six eggs beat up with a very little flour and about the size of half a nutmeg of butter; add a little pepper and salt, and a blade of mace, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and four of water. Put it on the fire and stir all the time till it just begins to boil; then take it off, and put in a good lump of butter; stir it well together, always going round the same way. It should never be put on the fire again, and therefore should not be made till the fish is ready to serve. All boiled fish is good with this sauce. The quantity here given is sufficient for six people. 138. DUTCH SAUCE. Boil some sliced horseradish, a blade of mace, and two anchovies in some good stock; strain, and thicken it with the yolks of four eggs well.beaten and mixed. 139. SAUCE 1 LA GRILLON. Put about two ounces of butter in a stew-pan to melt; then rub in a spoonful of flour; stir it about, and add two tablespoonfuls of cream and one of milk; stir till quite smooth, then add about a tablespoonful of minced parsley and shallot; season with white pepper and salt; keep stirring it over the fire till quite hot, but do not let it boil; and serve. This sauce is good for fillets of SAUCES. 51 turbot, sole, or whiting; it should be of the consistence of thick cream. 140. GOOD SAUCE FOR FILLETS OF SOLE. Two hard-boiled eggs, one raw yolk, and a little cream; mix very smooth with a tablespoonful of tarragon or elder vinegar. Put it into a stewpan, heat without boiling, season with pepper and salt, and pour over the fillets. X 141. MELTED BUTTER. This, however simple, is rarely well done. Mix in the proportion of a teaspoonful of flour to four ounces of the best butter as much as you require on a plate, then put it into a small saucepan with three tablespoonfuls of hot water or milk; boil it quick for a minute, shaking it all the time. Another way is to cut two ounces of butter in small pieces, put it into a very clean saucepan with a large teaspoonful of flour and two tablespoonfuls of milk; hold it over the fire, and shake it round constantly the same way till it begins to simmer, then let it stand quietly and boil up. Care must be taken that the butter does not oil. The yolk of an egg is a great improvement. 142. SAUCE HOLLANDAISE. Four tablespoonfuls of elder vinegar boiled with a little salt, a teaspoonful of flour, and a blade of mace. Beat up the yolks of five eggs; cut about a quarter of a pound of butter into thin slices ; put these into the hot vinegar, shake and mix well, stirring continually. It must not be put on the fire after the eggs and butter are added. 52 SAUCES. 143. SAUCE ITALIENNE. Put into a saucepan a little parsley, a shallot, some mushrooms and truffles, all minced small, with a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Let it stew a few minutes, and add a wineglass of white wine and a little pepper and salt. Let all boil together slowly for half an hour, pass it through a tammy, and add a tablespoonful of olive-oiL This is the sauce for maqueraux a 1'Italienne, but it is excellent with other fish. 144. SAUCE AUX (Eurs (FLAMANDE). Put four yolks of eggs beaten, three or four slices of lemon, a little grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of vinegar, and a good-sized piece of butter, into a saucepan; set it on a gentle fire, stir it well, and do not let it boil. It is good with all sorts of fish. 145. SAUCE FOR SALMON TROUT. Take a piece of ham, one onion cut in four, four cloves, a little pepper, a shallot, and a piece of butter. Put them into a saucepan, and set over a slow fire for a few minutes, then add a tablespoonful of flour and some good stock . Eeduce—i.e. boil till it thickens—some red wine; add about a glassful to your sauce, and a small lump of sugar; a little salt and pepper, and six anchovies, previously washed and scraped. Let your sauce boil, and pass it through a tammy. This is also good for eels. 146. NEWCASTLE SAUCE FOR FISH. Take three spoonfuls of vinegar, three t>f strong gravy, SAUCES. 53 tnree or four anchovies. Boil them together till reduced to one spoonful; strain it off, and add half a pound of butter beaten to a cream, and one spoonful of ketchup. Boil altogether just before you serve. 147. SAUCE FOR FILLETS OF SOLE. Sweet basil, thyme, and parsley, and a shallot all minced very fine; add a ladle of clear gravy, a tablespoonful of white wine or vinegar, the juice of a lemon, pepper and salt to taste. Serve very hot. 148. SAUCE AUX CADRES. Take three ladles of cullis, three large spoonfuls of capers, some parsley minced fine, the juice of two lemons, and a little minced shallot. Set it in a saucepan on the fire, and let it boil. This is good for pike, barbel, etc. 149. SAUCE FOR TURBOT OR JOHN DOREY. A pint of good gravy, two wineglasses of Rhenish wine, two spoonfuls of oil, the juice of two lemons, an anchovy, half a shallot, a small bunch of green onions and parsley, a spoonful of cullis, pepper and salt to taste. Cover it down very close. Set it upon a slow stove to simmer gently for about an hour. Take a large ladle of cullis, and strain to it about the same quantity of the liquor the fish was boiled in; add this to the sauce with a large spoonful of whole capers, or minced olives, and a little minced parsley. Let it boil, and pour it boiling over the fish. 54 SAUCES. 150. BEDRKE NOIR. Boil till it is reduced to half the quantity, half a pint of the best vinegar with a little salt, pepper, and half a bay-leaf. Put into a frying-pan seven ounces of fresh butter; heat it on the fire till it begins to blacken; then add a few picked parsley-leaves. Let them fry for a second or two, skim the butter, let it settle for a minute, and pour it into the vinegar, after having removed the bay-leaf. For skate, etc. 151. MAtTRE D'H6TEL SAUCE. Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh butter in a saucepan with a good pinch of flour and a glass of milk. Let it heat, stirring it constantly; add some finely-chopped parsley, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon. FISH. 152. WHITINGS OR SOLE A LA PREVOYANTE. Cut your fish into fillets and marine ' it thus :—Lay them two hours before cooking in a flat dish, and pour over them one spoonful of vinegar, one of oil, six or eight onions sliced, a few sprigs of thyme, a little parsley, and four or five bay-leaves, pepper, and salt. Set the dish in a cool larder. To prepare the batter in which they are to be cooked, put into a bason two tablespoonfuls of flour, equal quantities of small beer and water, and - one tablespoonful of oil; beat it well up, keeping it quite thin. It should be about the consistency of thick cream. Whisk the white of a raw egg to a froth, and add it to the batter just as you are ready to use it. Have your hot lard ready ; take up the fillets of fish separately, and dab them about in the batter till they are covered with it; as each is done, drop them into the hot lard and fry of a fine golden colour. It is a good guide to know if the lard is of the proper heat, to put in a few parsley leaves, and if it immediately crisps it is right. Tomato- sauce should be served with this, but separately. 153. WHITINGS A L'ITALIENNE. Having cleaned the whitings, lay them on a silver or metal dish with a snwV piece of butter, two shallots, and 56 FISH. some parsley minced very fine; put them to cook in a moderate oven. While they are doing pour over them a glass of white wine and one of stock. When they are nearly ready, put them carefully, so as not to break them, into a saucepan; add to the sauce a spoonful of cullis, a piece of butter, a very little essence of anchovy, and the squeeze of a lemon. Keep them on the tire a few minutes and arrange them on the dish they are to be served on. 154. WHITINGS AS IN SCOTLAND. Choose small perfectly fresh fish, rub them in flour till it adheres; lay them in a fryingpan with a good bit of butter; saute them very slowly. They should not be dry or coloured. Mince some parsley and green onions or chives very fine; put them into some good broth and about two tablespoonfuls of cream; mix it well together and pour it over the whitings before they are quite finished cooking; move them about very gently, not to break them, till they are done, They are very delicate and excellent done in this way, which, though simple, requires great care. No butter should be used but what is required to fry them. 155. FHIED FILLETS op WHITING. Cut about six small whitings in two from top to bottom, take the fillets, lay them to marinade for about an hour, in equal proportions of vinegar, white wine, and water; add salt, green onions, a few blades of mace, and some whole pepper; dry them; toss them in a heap of fine flour. Have ready a pan of hot lard, and fry all together FISH. 57 on a brisk fire. Fry some parsley crisp and green, and serve your fish upon it. They should be eaten with the following sauce:—To a large spoonful of the best vinegar and the same quantity of water add a little salt, some shallot and parsley minced fine, and the juice of an orange or lemon. 156. WHITINGS IN SAUCE. Clean your fish, and lay them in salt and water. Take as much fish stock (or stock made from a fowl will do) as you require for the quantity of sauce, season it with salt, whole white pepper, two or three cloves, a blade or two of mace, and a bit of lemon-peel; let it boil five minutes; strain and return it to the pan; thicken with a piece of butter rolled in flour. When it boils add some parsley and chives or green onions minced fine; let it boil a few minutes, and put in your fish. When nearly done add the yolks of two eggs, a little cream, a glass of white wine, and the squeeze of a lemon, pre- viously well mixed with some of the sauce. Do not let it boil after this is added, but shake it well over the fire. 157. HADDOCKS WITH BROWN SAUOE (SCOTCH). Take the largest haddocks you can get; clean them, cut off the heads, tails, belly, and fins; lay them in as much small beer and vinegar (half of each) as will cover them; let them remain an hour or two. Take the trimmings and one fish cut in pieces; put them into a saucepan with as much water as you wish sauce, two onions, a sprig of savory, thyme, and a little lemon-peel. Boil slowly till all the substance is out of the fish; strain off the stock; 58 FISH. thicken with brown roux; add two tablespoonfuls of ketchup, a little mixed spice, some salt, and half a glass of claret. When it boils put in your fish. If you can get oysters, add them with some of their juice. Let it boil about ten minutes, when it will be ready to serve. 158. FILLETS OF HADDOCK A. LA MA!TKE o'H6xEL. Take the two sides of a haddock off the bone; lay them in a sautepan; boil in broth, for five minutes, a spoonful of chopped onion, parsley, and mushroom; then pour it over the fillets; add a little pepper and salt, and fry them. When done serve under them a maitre d'hotel sauce. (See Fish Sauces.) Whitings may be done in the same way. 159. HADDOCKS AUX CAPRES. Cut a haddock into two or three pieces; set it on to boil in water with a little salt, an onion, and some parsley; let it boil half an hour; strain it and add to the stock some beef broth. Then take a bit of butter the size of a walnut, and a spoonful of flour; set it on the stove to melt, add the stock to it, and stir till it boils. Let it boil gently half an hour, skimming it all the time, then add a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, two of soy, one of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, and a little cayenne; strain it through a tammy into a clean saucepan, and put into it a good quantity of capers. Prepare two haddocks by boiling them for a quarter of an hour with very little water covered close on the stove. Keep them in the dish, and pour the sauce very hot over them just before serving. •, FISH. 09 160. FILETS DE SOLE 1 L'ORLIE. Clean the soles and cut them entirely open by the back from head to tail. Make each into four neat fillets, and steep them in lemon-juice, salt, parsley, and sliced onions. Shake them occasionally in this marinade, where they ought to remain an hour. When ready to serve, drain, dip them in flour, and fry till they are firm and of a good colour. Serve under them an Italienne or tomato sauce. (See Fish Sauces.) 161. A GOOD WAY TO DRESS A TURBOT. Lay the fish you are to boil in a pint of vinegar seasoned with salt, pepper, sliced onion, and a faggot of thyme, marjoram, and parsley. Leave it in an hour; then put the fish and pickle carefully into a fish-kettle of boiling water; add to it a few cloves, some mace, four or five anchovies, and a bit of horseradish. When done enough, take out your fish and let it drain; be careful it is not boiled too fast,, and in only just enough liquor. For the sauce take half a pint of the well-strained liquor of a quart of oysters, half a pint of white wine, the flesh of the body of a lobster, a little mixed spices, a bit of lemon- peel, and two anchovies. Let it stew about twenty minutes, then strain and add a pound of butter, and as much flour as will make it a good thickness; then put in the oysters, and the tail and claws of the lobster, previously boiled and cut in dice. Put the sauce on the stove again for a few minutes, and serve very hot. Cod and other fish are good dressed in the same way. 60 FISH. 162. WATER SOUCHE. Stew two or three flounders, some parsley leaves and roots, thirty peppercorns, and a quart of water, till the fish are boiled to pieces; then pulp them through a sieve. Set over the fire the pulped fish, the liquor that boiled them, and the perch, pike, or whatever fish you wish, and some fresh parsley leaves and roots. Simmer till the fish is done enough. Serve in a deep dish. Thin slices of bread and butter should be eaten with it. 163. SMELTS AUX ANCHOIS ET CAPRES. Eight large smelts are enough for a small dish. For the sauce boil a couple of anchovies in a glass of Ehenish or other white wine till they are dissolved, and strain it into a ladleful of cullis or gravy; season with a bunch of onions and parsley, a blade of mace, a bay-leaf, and some pepper and salt. Put your fish in and let them stew gently a quarter of an hour. Take out the onions and parsley, and add a spoonful of capers. Make it boiling hot, and squeeze in the juice of an orange or lemon. Take out the fish very tenderly to dish. Put a little finely-minced parsley into your sauce, and pour it over them. You cannot name a fresh-water fish that is not good dressed in this way. . 164. EELS 1 LA POULETTE. Turn the eels upon hot cinders till the skin is com- pletely grilled. Wipe and scrape them. Cut off the fins and skin. Cut off the head and tail, and gut them. Cut in pieces of an equal length; wash and leave to FISH. G1 blanch; scrape and clean the blood well out; put them in a stew-pan with a bit of butter and some mushrooms; set them for a minute on the fire, and dust them with flour; then add a glass of stock and one of white wine; stir with a wooden spoon till it boils. Put to it a little parsley, two shallots, half a bay-leaf, one clove, salt and pepper to taste, and twenty or thirty button onions; let it simmer, and reduce; skim off the fat; thicken with two or three yolks of eggs well beaten; add the juice of a lemon, and serve. 165. EELS A LA TARTARE. Prepare the eels as above; put the pieces in a stew-pan with slices of onions, carrots, parsley, two or three scallions cut in two, a glass of white wine, salt, a bay- leaf, two cloves, and a sprig of thyme. When done enough drain, and roll them in bread-crumbs; dip in egg, roll them again in crumbs, and put them on the gridiron till well browned. Serve with sauce a la tartare. (See Cold Sauces.) 166. SPITCHCOCKED EELS. Clean them well; rub them with salt, and skin them; slit open the belly and take out the bone; wash and dry them; cut them in pieces about four inches long; dredge them with flour, and wipe it off so that they may be quite dry. Make a batter of melted butter thickened •with yolks of eggs, a little minced parsley, sage, and a very little shallot, some pepper and salt. Eoll the pieces of eel in finely-grated bread-crumbs; dip them in the batter, and roll them again; then broil them over a clear 62 FISH. fire of a fine light brown. If the eels are small they may be dipped and broiled whole. Serve with a remoulade a tartare, or a Dutch sauce. (See Sauces.) 167. A GOOD WAY TO BOIL TENCH, PERCH, ETC. Clean them well and scale them, and put into the pan with a pint of water a teaspoonful of salt, an onion sliced, three sprigs of thyme, a bay-leaf, some parsley and celery, a little pepper, and a wine glassful of vinegar. If the fish weigh a pound boil for half an hour, and more or less according to their size. Serve with Dutch or other sauce. 168. STEWED TROUT, CARP, OR TENCH. Clean the fish very well . If large they may be cut in pieces. Kub them inside with salt and mixed spices; lay them in a stew-pan with as much good stock as will cover them, two onions with four cloves stuck in each, some Jamaica and black peppercorns, and a bit of mace. When the fish have stewed a few minutes, add two glasses of white wine, a boned anchovy, the juice of a lemon, and a little cayenne pepper. When the fish is sufficiently stewed, take it out carefully and keep it hot; thicken the sauce with some brown roux. Add a tea- spoonful of mushroom ketchup, skim, strain, pour over the fish, and serve. 169. MATELOTE OF CARP OR EELS, ETC. One large or two small carp, cut in seven or eight pieces. Fry them in a little butter, then add to them about a pint of red wine, a ladle of gravy, a bunch of FISH. 63 green onions, herbs, and parsley, a few cloves, three or four bay-leaves, pepper and salt. Stew all together gently about three-quarters of an hour. Strain it into another stew-pan, in which put as much cullis as will make up the quantity of sauce you require for your dish. Place your fish in it, with a spoonful or two of capers; an anchovy cleaned, boned, and minced fine; and the juice of a lemon. The capers may be omitted and button onions substituted. Tench and eels are excellent done in this way. 170. UN BROCKET FAUCI. Prepare your pike thus :—Gut it without cutting it open, but take care it is well cleaned. Cut a notch down the back from head to tail, put the tail in the mouth, and lay it to marinade for an hour in vinegar and oil, sliced onions, parsley, and bay-leaves. For your stuffing take the udder of a leg of veal, or the kidney fat of a loin of lamb, some fat bacon cut in dice, some green onions, a mushroom or two, or truffles, parsley, salt and pepper, and a morsel of butter. Chop it all well, add the crumb of a French roll soaked in cream or milk; pound all together in a mortar, try if it is seasoned enough, if not add more. Fill the belly of the fish, close up the cut in the back, egg it well over, strew bread-crumbs on it, and bake in a gentle oven. Serve with a caper sauce. (See Fish Sauces.) 171. To FRY WHITEBAIT. The sooner they are cooked the better. Keep them in a pan of salt and water. When you wish to cook them, 64 FISH. lift them out with a skimmer, for they should never be handled. Put them into a cloth on which there is plenty of flour, toss them about in it till they are well coated, place them, on a sieve and sift oif all the flour that will come. Have ready your hot lard, and fry immediately from one to two minutes. Lift them out with the skimmer, drain from the frying fat, and serve them instantly. Thin slices of brown bread and butter, cayenne and lemon, should be eaten with them. 172. To SAUTE SOLES, FLOUNDEES, ETC. Clean and trim the fish, dip them in a couple of eggs previously well beaten. Put six tablespoonfuls of olive- oil in a frying-pan, place it over the fire; when quite hot put in the fish, let it remain five minutes, turn it over and fry the other side. Ten or twelve minutes should be sufficient to cook them. 173. SOLES 1 LA MENUISIERE. Cut the fins off a sole, and with a knife make four inci- sions across it on each side, then rub well into it half a tablespoonful of salt and chopped onions, dip it in flour, and broil over a slow fire. Have ready two ounces of fresh butter, mixed with the juice of a lemon and a little cayenne pepper, which rub over the sole, previously laid in a very hot dish without a napkin. Turn the fish over once or twice that it may be well covered. Put it into the oven for a minute, and serve very hot. 174. SOLES SAUTE 1 LA EAVIGOTE. Scale and wash the soles, but do not empty them; run 66 FISH. as will cover them, a few slices of onions and carrots, a bunch of sweet herbs, some salt, and a little nutmeg. When done enough, pour over them a sauce Italienne (see Fish Sauces), and serve. 177. WHITINGS A L'ITALIENNE. Wash, clean, and skin them; cut off the tails and fins, and lay them in a marinade for four hours, made with oil, lemon-juice, slices of onion, and whole parsley leaves. Strain them, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry them of a fine golden colour—this is best done with oil. (A real Italian recipe.) 178. MACKEREL 1 LA MA!TEE D'H6xEL. Choose large, fresh, soft-roed mackerel; cut off the fins, point of the tails and heads, and make an incision an inch deep down the back; lay them in a dish, strew salt and pepper over them, also half a pint of sweet oil, an onion cut in rings, and some whole parsley. Leave the mackerel to marine" in this for about two hours turning them over from time to time. Half an hour before serving rub a gridiron with oil, take out the fish and wipe them, sprinkle them with a little salt, and lay them an inch apart on the gridiron over a slow fire. Do them on one side till they are of a good colour, then turn them over and do the other. Lay them on their backs for five minutes, when they will be ready to dish. Open when dished the backs with a spoon, and intro- duce a piece of butter, mixed with salt, pepper, minced parsley, and the juice of a lemon. The marinade may be served with the mackerel. FISH. 67 179. FILETS DE MACQUERAUX. Cut the mackerel into fillets, and cook them in a frying- pan with a little butter over a slow stove. Make your sauce with a piece of butter, the yolks of two eggs beat8n, a little broth, some cayenne pepper, and finely- minced fennel and parsley, salt to your taste, and the squeeze of a lemon or a Seville orange. Do not let your sauce boil, but make it very hot, and pour it over the fillets. 180. COD A LA CREME. Put into a stew-pan a good bit of butter, half a spoonful of flour, a clove of garlic minced fine, and some whole pepper; moisten with milk or cream; thicken your sauce on the stove. Put in the fillets of cod; heat, and serve very hot. If you wish to serve it with bread-crumbs put in a little more butter and the yolks of three eggs. Lay the fish in the dish you mean to serve it in, with the sauce round it; cover with bread-crumbs, and put it for a minute or two in the oven, and brown it with a salamander. Cod or salmon that have been previously dressed are good in this way. 181. SALMON AU COURT BOUILLON OR AU BLEU. Having drawn and cleaned your salmon, score the sides of it pretty deep; lay it on a napkin, and season it with salt, pepper, a few cloves, a little nutmeg, some sliced onions, chives, parsley, sliced lemon, two or three bay- leaves, and some basil . Work up a pound of butter in a little flour, and put it in the belly of the fish; then wrap the salmon in the napkin, bind it about with a C,8 FISH. packthread, and put it into a fish-kettle of a size proportionate to your fish. Pour over it equal parts of wine, water, and vinegar, in quantities sufficient to boil it, and set it over a quick fire. When it is done enough, which will be in from fifteen to twenty-five minutes, according to its size, take it off, and keep it simmering over a slow stove till you are ready to serve. Then take up the salmon, take it out of the napkin, and lay it on another in the dish you intend to serve it in, and garnish it with parsley. f 182. To BOIL SALMON AS AT BERWICK. Cut the salmon across into small slices, wash them twice in hard water, or pump water over them. The water must be boiling when the salmon is put in, and plenty of salt in it (as much as will float an egg). If a small salmon it will take fifteen minutes; if a large one twenty to twenty-five. Hard water must be used in boiling. Serve in a deep dish, with some of the water the fish was boiled in poured over. 183. To BROIL SALMON WITH A WHITE SAUCE. Having cut the salmon in slices, melt some butter in a pan, and add a little salt to it. Kub the slices of fish with this, and broil them on a gridiron over a slack fire. Make a white sauce as follows :—Put a piece of butter and a pinch of flour into a saucepan, two anchovies, previously washed and boned, some capers, and a whole leek . Season with pepper, salt, and a very little nutmeg. Add a little water and a few drops of vinegar. Keep stirring the sauce over the stove till of a proper thickness, FISH. then take out the leek, and pour it into the dish you intend to serve the salmon in. Lay the slices of broiled fish in, and serve very hot. 184. SALMON WITH A BROWN SAUCE. Broil your slices of salmon as above. Put into a sauce- pan a piece of butter the size of an egg, and set it on a slow stove. When the butter is melted, put in half a spoonful of flour, and shake it about till it is brown. Then put in some good fish stock and a glass of white wine. Season with pepper, salt, an onion stuck with cloves, a bunch of herbs, and a little shred parsley. When the slices of salmon are broiled put them into this sauce, and let them simmer in it till the sauce is reduced enough. Then take out the fish and lay it in a dish. Add to the sauce a thickening of one or two yolks of eggs, beat up in a little vinegar. Let the sauce just come to a boil, stirring it well, and pour very hot over the salmon. 185. SAUMON EN CAJSSE. Take two good slices of salmon; put them to marinade for an hour in a dish with as much sweet oil as will cover them; parsley, onions, a little mushroom, and a shallot, all minced very fine; half a bay-leaf, a little thyme, and sweet basil, reduced almost to powder; salt and pepper. Make a paper-case large enough to hold your two slices of salmon. Oil the paper. Put in the fish with the seasoning on it, and place it in the oven. When done enough, pour a little lemon-juice on it, and serve. 70 FISH. 186. SALMON COLLOPS. Cut the salmon in thin collops. Season with pepper and salt, and fry them in a saut6-pan with a little butter. Place them in a dish, and serve with the following sauce: —Take a spoonful of fennel, mint, and parsley, boil them five minutes, and chop them fine. Mix with them half a pint of bechamel, and a little glaze. Season with salt, a little cayenne, and the squeeze of half a lemon. Mackerel are very good done in the same way. 187. IRISH PICKLE FOR SALMON. Equal parts of vinegar, white wine, and water. Boil it with mace, cloves, ginger, pepper, and horseradish. Take out the latter when sufficiently boiled, and pour the pickle over salmon previously boiled in strong salt and water. 188. YORKSHIRE RECIPE TO DRESS DRIED SALMON. Pull some dried salmon into flakes. Have ready some hard-boiled eggs, chopped large. Put both into a pint of cream, with two ounces of butter, rubbed up with a teaspoonful of flour. Skim it and stir till it boils. Make a wall of mashed potatoes round the dish, and put the fish in the centre. 189. BAKED HERRINGS. Scale, wash, and dry them well in a cloth; lay them on a board, pound some black pepper and cloves together, and mix them with four times the quantity of salt, and rub the fish all over. Lay them straight in an earthenware dish (a deep one is best). Cover them with vinegar and FISH. 71 a few bay-leaves. Tie strong paper over the top of the dish, and bake them in a moderate oven for about half an hour or more. They are good eaten either hot or cold, and will keep a long time if well covered. Mackerel and trout may be dressed in the same way. 190. BAKED HEREINGS IN A CRUST. Make a shape of good paste just the length and the breadth of a herring. Then lay a fresh herring, previously scaled, washed, and cleaned, in it, with a piece of butter, some minced onions, pepper and salt. Cover with paste, and put them in the oven for about twenty minutes or half an hour. They are excellent. 191. To BOIL HERRINGS. Scale, clean, and wash them; dry them thoroughly in a cloth, rub them well over with salt and vinegar. When the water boils, put them in ; about ten or twelve minutes will do them. Then take them up; drain them well, and put them on the dish. Serve with grated horseradish, and horseradish sauce, or parsley and butter made very green. Mackerel may be boiled in the same way, and served with fennel or green gooseberry sauce. 192. PICKLED HERRINGS, MACKEREL, SPRATS OR SMELTS. Cut two onions in thin slices, mix with salt and pepper and a little mixed spice, two or three bay-leaves, and a small faggot of sweet herbs. Clean the fish, and cut off the fins and gills. Put a little of the onion inside them, 72 FISH. and rub the outside with the same. Put them into a deep dish, with the onions, herbs, and seasoning, half a pint of vinegar, and a gill of water. Bake in a slow oven one hour. Serve cold. They keep a long time good. 193. FISH PIE. Clean and scale some trout, whitings, or other small fish; cut off their heads and tails; put a few bits of butter in the bottom of a pudding-dish; lay in the fish, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and a good quantity of chopped green onions and parsley; then put in another layer of fish, seasoning in the same way. When the dish is full, pour over a glass of vinegar and a little mushroom- ketchup; cover the top of the dish with mashed pota- toes, and put it to bake in the oven for an hour. 194. FISH PUDDING. Pound some cold fish in a mortar with a few spoonfuls of broth; add a small lump of butter and some crumbs of bread; mix it with the yolks of four eggs, previously well beaten, and rub it through a sieve into a bason with the whites of the eggs also well whipped; put it into a souffl6-mould and bake it in the oven. 195. COD PIE. Take a piece of the middle of a small cod and salt it well one night; next day wash it, season with pepper and salt and a little cayenne; place it in a pie-dish with a few bits of butter and a little good broth; cover it with crust and bake it. Make a sauce of a spoonful of broth, a FISH. 73 quarter of a pint of cream, a small piece of roux, and a little grated lemon-peel; give it one boil, raise the crust, and pour it over the fish when it is baked enough. Oysters may be added and also minced parsley. Soles and turbots may be dressed the same way. 196. A YARMOUTH EECIPE TO COOK BLOATERS. "There was never a herring spake but one, And he said, Toast my back before you toast my bone." 197. EIZARD HADDOCKS. Eub them with salt inside and out; hang them up in the open air for twenty-four hours, which is best done by running a skewer through their heads which you support on two nails; skin them, dust them with flour, and broil over a clear fire. They are excellent for breakfast. 198. BED HERRINGS A LA BRUXELLOISE. Take a large sheet of the thickest white paper double, of which make a case large enough to contain eight her- rings; butter it well inside and out that it may not burn; then take eight of the best herrings, cut off their heads and tails, skin them, take out the backbone, and divide them longitudinally into two fillets; place them side by side in the case, and put between each a bit of butter mixed with fine herbs, some chopped mushrooms, parsley, a little shallot and green onions minced fine, a little pepper, and just a sprinkling of olive-oil; powder them over the top with fine bread-crumbs, and lay the case on the gridiron over a very clear fire, taking every 74 FISH. precaution to prevent their burning. When they are sufficiently done, which will be in about ten minutes, serve them in the case with a squeeze of lemon over them. 199. EED HERRINGS. Take off their heads and tails; divide them from end to end; take out the bone; put them on a dish, and baste with oil. When ready to serve, turn them for a minute or two on the gridiron, and send to table immediately. 200. LOBSTER AU GRATIN. Chop a middle-sized onion and put it in a stew-pan with two ounces of butter; fry of a light brown; mix with it a small tablespoonful of flour; pour over half a pint of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper, and half that of cayenne, a little sugar, a very little nutmeg, and some chopped parsley. Boil a few minutes till rather thick; put in your previously boiled lobster meat cut in pieces. Let it boil up; add the yolk of an egg and a little cream, mix quickly; fill the shells, egg and bread- crumb them; put in an oven for ten minutes, pass a hot salamander over them, and serve. 201. CRAB AU GRATIN (AMERICAN). Prepare the crab as usual, lay in the empty shell a layer of the soft part, then a layer of grated American crackers or biscuit; over this lay the fleshy part of the crab, on which pour a spoonful of mushroom-ketchup; add some chopped hard-boiled yolks of eggs. Season with a little salt, pepper, and cayenne; cover all with the remainder FISH. 75 of the soft part of the crab; make it even with a knife; egg and bread-crumb it over, or grated biscuit may be used instead of bread-crumbs; stick a few bits of butter on the top; set it in the oven for twenty minutes or half an hour, and serve very hot. 202. PARTAN PIE. Pick the meat after boiling out of the crab; clean out the shell and mix the meat with a little salt, pepper, a bit of butter, and, if too liquid, a few bread-crumbs; add three spoonfuls of vinegar, and put all into the shell again; strew a few bread-crumbs over, and set it before the fire or in the oven. Brown with a salamander; add a little cayenne, and serve. 203. CURRY OF LOBSTER. Take them from the shells; cut them in medium-sized pieces, and lay them in a saucepan with a small piece of ham, a blade of mace, cayenne pepper, and salt to your taste, four spoonfuls of veal gravy, and four spoonfuls of cream. Eub smooth together two teaspoonfuls of curry powder, a teaspoonful of flour, and a little cream. Add it to the sauce. Simmer an hour, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon before serving. 204. CURRY OF COD Should be made of sliced cod that has either been crimped or sprinkled for a day with salt, to make it firm. Fry it with some onions in a pan till it is of a fine brown; then put it in a stew-pan with some good veal gravy, a 76 FISH. spoonful or two of curry powder, a bit of butter rolled in flour, and four spoonfuls of rich cream. Season to taste, with salt and cayenne. Stew it slowly till done. Serve with rice, or in a rice border. 205. KEDGEREE. Boil a breakfast-cupful of rice twenty minutes, and four eggs ten minutes. Take any kind of cooked white fish; pull it in pieces; take care there are no bones left; chop the eggs very fine; add three or four ounces of fresh butter; season with salt and cayenne pepper (fresh green minced chilis are better). Beat the whole together, and serve as hot as possible. A little chutnee sauce eaten with it is a great improvement. 206. OYSTERS STEWED (AMERICAN WAY). Take a dozen large oysters in their own liquor; let them just boil; add salt, pepper, a piece of butter the size of a nutmeg, and half a teaspoonful of chopped chervil. 207. ANOTHER AMERICAN WAY. Open a dozen oysters; put them in a small stew-pan with two grains of black pepper, a pinch of sugar, a little salt butter, and cayenne. Set them on the stove for three or four minutes; give them just a slight boil, and put in a bit of butter the size of a walnut, which you have previously mixed with half a teaspoonful of flour. Shake the stew-pan round till it is melted; put the pan again on the fire to simmer for a minute or two. Serve very hot on toast. Any quantity may be done in the same way. A little cream is an improvement. FISH. 77 208. OYSTERS STEWED IN THEIR OWN JUICE (SCOTCH). This is an excellent method of dressing them. Take the largest you can get; wash them clean through their own juice; lay them close together in a frying-pan; sprinkle them with a little salt. Do not put one above another. Make them a fine brown on both sides. If one panful is not sufficient, do off more. When they are all done, pour some of their liquor into the pan, mixing it with any that may be left from their cooking. Let it boil a minute or two. Pour it over the oysters, and serve very hot. 209. To POT CHAR OR TROUT. Three teaspoonfuls of black pepper and allspice mixed, two of mace, one each of cloves and nutmeg. Keep them well corked up in a small bottle; when used add a little salt. This is a sufficient quantity for fourteen pounds of fish. Cut open the fish; clean them well with a dry cloth, but do not wash. Remove the heads, tails, fins, and backbone; then rub the spices well into them. Put them with the spices into a baking dish; cover well with fresh butter, and place the dish in a slow oven, to remain till the bones are dissolved, which will take about five hours. Drain off the butter, and put the fish into pots; press it down firmly, and pour a thin layer of fresh butter over the top. The trout should be red- fleshed, and not exceeding three-quarters of a pound in weight. Other fish, such as eels, sprats, etc., or shrimps and prawns, may be done in the same way. The spices must all be ground. 78 FISH. , 210. METHOD OF KIPPERING SALMON. The largest fish are best. To twenty pounds of salmon put one and a half pounds of salt, one pound of raw sugar, and two ounces of saltpetre. Mix all well together. Wash the fish well in salt and water; split it up the back, cut off the head, and take out the backbone. Rub it well inside with the mixture; lay it in a deep dish with the inside uppermost; leave it in the pickle twenty-four hours; then put a heavy weight on it; press it for two days, or three if a large fish. Take it out of the pickle and hang it to dry in the sun. MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 211. SALT BEEF. To salt beef for immediate use, common salt, previously well dried at the fire, is better than any other pickle. The kernels should be carefully extracted, then sprinkle the meat well with salt, and six hours afterwards hang it up to drain. After it has drained, rub it thoroughly in every part with salt, and lay it in a salting-tub. Cover it over with a cloth saturated with the brine, and then with the cover, which should fit close to the tub. It must be turned and rubbed every day with the brine. A round of beef, of twenty-five pounds' weight, will require one and a half pound of salt, to be all rubbed in at first. Turned and rubbed every day, if not wished very salt, it may be eaten in four or five days. If you wish it red, rub it first with saltpetre, in the proportion of half an ounce and the same quantity of moist sugar to one pound of common salt. 212.- BAKED ROUND OF BEEF. If about fifteen pounds, hang it two or three days; then rub in, being previously well pounded together, three ounces of saltpetre, one ounce of moist sugar, a quarter of an ounce each of black pepper, allspice, cloves, and mace, and a nutmeg grated, some minced sweet and savory herbs, and three quarters of a pound of common 80 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. salt. The bone should be taken out, and it should be turned and rubbed every day for a fortnight. When you dress it, put it into a pan with a quart of water; cover the meat with three pounds of suet, shredded rather thick, and an ounce or two minced small; then cover the whole with a flour crust to the brim of the pan, and bake in a moderate oven six hours. 213. To BOIL BEEF. The slower it is done the better; if boiled too quick at first, no art afterwards can make it tender. Half a round, of about fifteen pounds' weight, will take about three hours. Put plenty of cold water in with it, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Let it boil till no more comes, then set the boiler on one side of the fire, and keep it simmering slowly till-done. 214. SPORTSMAN'S BEEF. Take a large round of beef, three ounces and a half of saltpetre, one ounce of allspice, and a good pinch of cayenne pepper; rub it well in, and let it stand twenty- four hours. Then rub in thoroughly several handfuls of salt. Put it by for ten days, turning and rubbing in the salt every day. Then put it into a pan, with four pounds of shred beef-suet, dredge it lightly with flour, and bake in a slow oven for four or five hours according to the size. This will keep good in moderate weather as long as any remains of it. 215. BEEF BOTTILLI. Take the short ribs of a breast of beef, and put them on MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 81 to stew with a few turnips, carrots, otiions, a head of celery, a clove of garlic, a few slices of leg of beef, a small piece of mutton or veal, and a little spice. Cover it with boiling water, and let it simmer slowly four or five hours, till the meat is as tender as possible. For sauce, take some cullis or good rich gravy, a dessert-spoonful of chili vinegar, four or five gherkins minced fine, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, a little soy, and pepper and salt to your taste. Simmer all together a few minutes. When ready to serve, take the top skin off the bouilli, glaze it with a dark-brown glazing, and serve the sauce under the meat. 216. COLLARED BEEF. Choose the thin end of the flank of fine mellow beef, but not too fat. Lay it in a dish with salt and saltpetre; turn and rub it every day for a week, keeping it in a cool place. Then remove all bone and gristle, and the skin of the inside part, and cover it with the following seasoning:—Cut small a large handful of parsley, the same of sage, some thyme, marjoram, pepper, salt, and allspice (and, if liked, a little garlic). Roll the meat up as tight as possible, and bind it first with a cloth and then with tape or packthread. Put the beef on in plenty of water, and let it boil gently seven or eight hours. When done, put a heavy weight on while it is hot, without undoing the cloth, etc. It will, when cold, be of an oval shape. It should then be glazed on the outside. 217. DUTCH BEEF. Take a lean piece of beef, rub it well with treacle or G 80 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. salt. The bone should be taken out, and it should be turned and rubbed every day for a fortnight. When you dress it, put it into a pan with a quart of water ; cover the meat with three pounds of suet, shredded rather thick, and an ounce or two minced small ; then cover the whole with a flour crust to the brim of the pan, and bake in a moderate oven six hours. 213. To BOIL BEEF. The slower it is done the better; if boiled too quick at first, no art afterwards can make it tender. Half a round, of about fifteen pounds' weight, will take about three hours. Put plenty of cold water in with it, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Let it boil till no more comes, then set the boiler on one side of the fire, and keep it simmering slowly till done. 214. SPORTSMAN's BEEF. Take a large round of beef, three ounces and a half of saltpetre, one ounce of allspice, and a good pinch of cayenne pepper; rub it well in, and let it stand twenty- four hours. Then rub in thoroughly several handfuls of salt. Put it by for ten days, turning and rubbing in the salt every day. Then put it into a pan, with four pounds of shred beef-suet, dredge it lightly with flour, and bake in a slow oven for four or five hours according to the size. This will keep good in moderate weather as long as any remains of it. 215. BEEF BOUILLI. Take the short ribs of a breast of beef, and put them on MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 8] to stew with a few turnips, carrots, Önions, a head of celery, a clove of garlic, a few slices of leg of beef, a Small piece of mutton or veal, and a little spice. Cover it with boiling water, and let it simmer slowly four or five hours, till the meat is as tender as possible. For sauce, take some cullis or good rich gravy, a dessert-spoonful of chili vinegar, four or five gherkins minced fine, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, a little soy, and pepper and salt to your taste. Simmer all together a few minutes. When ready to serve, take the top skin off the bouilli, glaze it with a dark-brown glazing, and serve the sauce under the meat. 216. COLLARED BEEF. Choose the thin end of the flank of fine mellow beef, but not too fat. Lay it in a dish with salt and saltpetre ; turn and rub it every day for a week, keeping it in a cool place. Then remove all bone and gristle, and the skin of the inside part, and cover it with the following seasoning:—Cut small a large handful of parsley, the same of sage, some thyme, marjoram, pepper, salt, and allspice (and, if liked, a little garlic). Roll the meat up as tight as possible, and bind it first with a cloth and then with tape or packthread. Put the beef on in plenty of water, and let it boil gently seven or eight hours. When done, put a heavy weight on while it is hot, without undoing the cloth, etc. It will, when cold, be of an oval shape. It should then be glazed on the outside. - 217. DUTCH BEEF. Take a lean piece of beef, rub it well with treacle or G 82 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. brown sugar; lef it lie three days, turning and rubbing it often, then wipe it; salt it with salt and saltpetre beaten fine together, the salt having the largest propor- tion ; rub it well in every day for a fortnight, roll it tight in a coarse cloth, and press it under a heavy weight. Hang it to dry in wood smoke, turning it upside down every day; when smoked enough, boil it in pump water and press it. To be eaten cold, cut, or grated. 218. AN EXCELLENT MODE OF DRESSING BEEF TO EAT COLD. Hang three ribs of beef three or four days; take out the bones and rub it well with salt, a little saltpetre, and bay salt, brown sugar, pepper, cloves, mace, and allspice, in fine powder. Let it lie for a fortnight, turning and rubbing it every day; then put it into a baking-pan, and put some butter or suet on it; cover it with a coarse crust, and bake slowly till as tender as possible. Tongues to eat cold are excellent done in the same way. 219. COLLARED Ox CHEEKS. The cheeks must be well washed and wiped dry. Salt them well with common salt for twenty-four hours; take off the salt and lay them in a pan with the following mixture over them :—One ounce of saltpetre, the same of salprunella and of brown sugar. Let it remain three days, then take it off and stew the cheeks for three hours till the bones will draw out. Chop it while warm into small pieces; season it well with chopped herbs, pepper, and salt; put it into a tin mould, which fill till it comes a little above the top; put the cover on with heavy MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. S3 weights over it, and press it down close. When quite cold turn it out, and it is ready to eat. 220. BEEF EN SAUCISSONS. Take two pieces of beef about double the size of your hand, and one finger thick; beat them to make them flat, trim them even; take the parings and another bit of beef and mince very fine together with some parsley, a few sweet basil leaves, some small onions, two shallots, some mushrooms, salt, and whole pepper. Mix this forcemeat with four yolks of eggs, spread it upon the slices of beef, roll them up in the form of sausages, tie them and put them into a stew-pan on a slow fire, with a little broth, a glass of white wine, a little salt, some pepper, an onion with two cloves stuck in it, a carrot, and a parsnip. When well stewed pass the sauce through a sieve, take off the fat, reduce it till it is thick and rich. Put in the beef again, just bring it to a boil, and serve. It is good to eat cold. 221. BEEF EN PAPILLOTES. Take a rib of beef, shorten and trim it so that it is a pro- per -size for your dish. Put it on a gentle fire with a pint of broth, a little salt, and whole pepper; reduce it over a very gentle fire till it begins to stick to the beef: then put it in a marinade of oil, parsley, a very little sweet basil, small onions, one shallot, and some mush- rooms, all minced very fine. Let it lie an hour, then put the beef and marinade into a large sheet of white paper; plait it up all round the edge so that it may be entirely covered; oil the paper on the outside; place it on a 84 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. gridiron with another piece of oiled paper under it; broil on both sides over a gentle fire, and serve in the paper. 222. SHOULDER OF MUTTON MARINADE. Lay it for three days in a quarter of vinegar, with four ounces sliced, a handful of sweet herbs, and a small quantity of mace and cloves pounded; lard it with bacon rolled in Jamaica pepper; put it to bake with some of the liquor round it. When done serve with a rich gravy. 223. LEG OF MUTTON A LA PERIGORD. Take some truffles and bacon, cut them into pieces fit for larding, roll them in a little salt, spice, an onion, and a clove of garlic minced and well mixed together; then lard the mutton with the bacon and truffles, wrap it in a paper, and keep it from the air for two days that it may acquire a good flavour of truffles. Stew it on a gentle fire with some slices of veal and bacon in its own gravy. When done enough skim the sauce, add a good spoonful of cullis, and serve. 224. To MAKE A HAUNCH OF MUTTON EAT LIKE VENISON. Mix two ounces of bay salt with half a pound of brown sugar; rub it well into the mutton, which should be placed in a deep dish for four days, and basted three or four times a day with the liquor that drains from it; then wipe it quite dry, and rub in a quarter of a pound more sugar mixed with a little common salt, and hang it up haunch downwards; wipe it daily till it is used. In MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 85 winter it should be kept three weeks, and roasted in paste like venison. Serve with currant jelly. 225. EOAST LEG OF MUTTON. Cover it well with water, and bring it gradually to a boil; let it simmer gently for half an hour, then lift it out and put it immediately on the spit; roast it an hour and a quarter or a half, according to its size. Dressed in this way it is particularly juicy and tender, but there must be no delay in putting it on the spit after it is taken out of the water. It may be garnished with roasted tomatoes or potatoes, or served with haricots & la Bretonne round it. 226. To DRESS ROEDEER OR HARE. Take the two haunches and the back; take off the hard skin, lard the upper sides of the haunches with good fat bacon; then put into a pint of vinegar some carrots, turnips, and onions sliced, parsley minced, pepper and salt. Mix all together, and boil for ten minutes. When it is cold, lay the meat in a dish, and pour the pickle over it. Let it remain in the pickle for four days, turning it every day, and nibbing it well into the meat. When roasted, butter a large sheet of paper and tie it over the larded side. Three quarters of an hour is sufficient, with a good fire, to roast the haunches. For sauce, take a little of the pickle, a piece of butter rolled in flour, a teaspoonful of currant jelly, and a little good gravy. Boil all up together, and serve either round or in a sauce-boat. 86 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 227. CUTLETS OF MUTTON 1 LA MARINIERE. Cut your cutlets thick and short, put them in a stew- pan with a piece of butter about the size of half an egg; pass them on the fire till a little browned; wet them with a glass of white wine, the same quantity of broth; add a dozen little white onions; stew over a gentle fire for half an hour; then add a pound of bacon, a carrot, and a parsnip, a small piece of savory, and parsley, all minced, a little salt and pepper, and a dessert-spoonful of vinegar. Stew till the cutlets are very tender and the sauce reduced. Lay the cutlets on the dish, the sauce and onions round, and the minced bacon and roots over them. 228. COTELETTES DE MflUTON EN ROBE DE CHAMBRE. Stew them with broth, a very little salt, and a bunch of sweet herbs, quite slowly. When done tender, skim off the fat, pass the broth through a sieve, set it on the fire again, and reduce to a glaze. Glaze your cutlets, and leave them to cool. Take a piece of veal, some beef- suet, two eggs, a little salt and pepper, parsley, onions, and mushrooms. Mash all fine together, moisten with a little cream; roll each cutlet in this forcemeat, cover them with bread crumbs, lay them on a baking-tin, and place them in the oven till they are of a fine brown; the oven should not be too hot. Serve with shallot gravy or other clear sauce. 229. BEEF-STEAKS OR MUTTON-CHOPS. It is absolutely necessary, to make them good, that they MEAT, POULTEY, GAME. 87 should be cooked over a sharp red fire. The gridiron should he on the fire about two minutes before the chop or steak is laid on. They should be beaten a little beforehand, to set the meat and prevent it from shrink- ing, well seasoned with pepper and salt, and turned often to keep the gravy in the centre. Ten minutes will do a steak of half a pound weight, and about six minutes a chop. 230. MUTTON OR LAMB CHOPS AU FEU. Cut them rather thin, mince an onion and some parsley leaves very fine, add some oil; rub the chops well with this, leave them to soak in it two hours, season with pepper and salt. Broil over a sharp fire, and serve immediately. 231. EELISHING CUTLETS OR STEAKS. Chop fine a tablespoonful of green pickled chilis, mix with two ounces of butter a little mustard and a spoon- ful of grated horseradish. The cutlets or steaks should be cut rather thick. Season them with salt, and spread the above mixture on both sides. Put them on a grid- iron over a sharp fire, turn them three or four times. Serve on a very hot dish, with the juice of half a lemon and a dessert-spoonful of walnut ketchup. 232. LAMB CHOPS 1 LA BOULANGERE. Cut and trim neatly cutlets enough for a small entre'e— * say ten or twelve—season highly with salt and pepper and a little cayenne, dip them gently in olive-oil and then in flour. Broil them over a slow fire. While they 84 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. gridiron with another piece of oiled paper under it; broil on both sides over a gentle fire, and serve in the paper. 222. SHOULDER OF MUTTON MARINADE. Lay it for three days in a quarter of vinegar, with four ounces sliced, a handful of sweet herbs, and a small quantity of mace and cloves pounded ; lard it with bacon rolled in Jamaica pepper; put it to bake with some of the liquor round it. When done serve with a rich gravy. 223. LEG of MUTTON A LA PERIGoRD. Take some truffles and bacon, cut them into pieces fit for larding, roll them in a little salt, spice, an onion, and a clove of garlic minced and well mixed together; then lard the mutton with the bacon and truffles, wrap it in a paper, and keep it from the air for two days that it may acquire a good flavour of truffles. Stew it on a gentle fire with some slices of veal and bacon in its own gravy. When done enough skim the sauce, add a good spoonful of cullis, and serve. 224. To MAKE A HAUNCH OF MUTTON EAT LIKE WENISON. Mix two ounces of bay salt with half a pound of brown sugar; rub it well into the mutton, which should be placed in a deep dish for four days, and basted three or four times a day with the liquor that drains from it; then wipe it quite dry, and rub in a quarter of a pound more sugar mixed with a little common salt, and hang it up haunch downwards; wipe it daily till it is used. In MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 85 winter it should be kept three weeks, and roasted in paste like venison. Serve with currant jelly. 225. ROAST LEG OF MUTTON. Cover it well with water, and bring it gradually to a boil; let it simmer gently for half an hour, then lift it out and put it immediately on the spit; roast it an hour and a quarter or a half, according to its size. Dressed in this way it is particularly juicy and tender, but there must be no delay in putting it on the spit after it is taken out of the water. It may be garnished with roasted tomatoes or potatoes, or served with haricots à la Bretonne round it. 226. To DREss RoRDEER or HARE. Take the two haunches and the back ; take off the hard skin, lard the upper sides of the haunches with good fat bacon ; then put into a pint of vinegar some carrots, turnips, and onions sliced, parsley minced, pepper and salt. Mix all together, and boil for ten minutes. When it is cold, lay the meat in a dish, and pour the pickle over it. Let it remain in the pickle for four days, turning it every day, and rubbing it well into the meat. When roasted, butter a large sheet of paper and tie it over the larded side. Three quarters of an hour is sufficient, with a good fire, to roast the haunches. For sauce, take a little of the pickle, a piece of butter rolled in flour, a teaspoonful of currant jelly, and a little good gravy. Boil all up together, and serve either round or in a sauce-boat. 86 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 227. CUTLETS OF MUTTON A LA MARINIERE. Cut your cutlets thick and short, put them in a stew- pan with a piece of butter about the size of half an egg; pass them on the fire till a little browned ; wet them with a glass of white wine, the same quantity of broth; add a dozen little white onions; stew over a gentle fire for half an hour; then add a pound of bacon, a carrot, and a parsnip, a small piece of Savory, and parsley, all minced, a little salt and pepper, and a dessert-spoonful of vinegar. Stew till the cutlets are very tender and the sauce reduced. Lay the cutlets on the dish, the sauce and onions round, and the minced bacon and roots over them. 228. CôTELETTES DE MOUTON EN ROBE DE CHAMBRE. Stew them with broth, a very little salt, and a bunch of sweet herbs, quite slowly. When done tender, skim off the fat, pass the broth through a sieve, set it on the fire again, and reduce to a glaze. Glaze your cutlets, and leave them to cool. Take a piece of veal, some beef- suet, two eggs, a little salt and pepper, parsley, onions, and mushrooms. Mash all fine together, moisten with a little cream ; roll each cutlet in this forcemeat, cover them with bread crumbs, lay them on a baking-tin, and place them in the oven till they are of a fine brown ; the oven should not be too hot. Serve with shallot gravy or other clear sauce. 229. BEEF-STEAKs or MUTTON-CHOPS. It is absolutely necessary, to make them good, that they MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 87 should be cooked over a sharp red fire. The gridiron should be on the fire about two minutes before the chop or steak is laid on. They should be beaten a little beforehand, to set the meat and prevent it from shrink- ing, well seasoned with pepper and salt, and turned often to keep the gravy in the centre. Ten minutes will do a steak of half a pound weight, and about six minutes a chop. 230. MUTTON OR LAMB CHOPS AU FEU. Cut them rather thin, mince an onion and some parsley leaves very fine, add some oil; rub the chops well with this, leave them to soak in it two hours, season with pepper and salt. Broil over a sharp fire, and serve immediately. 231. RELISHING CUTLETS OR STEAKs. Chop fine a tablespoonful of green pickled chilis, mix with two ounces of butter a little mustard and a spoon- ful of grated horseradish. The cutlets or steaks should be cut rather thick. Season them with salt, and spread the above mixture on both sides. Put them on a grid- iron over a sharp fire, turn them three or four times. Serve on a very hot dish, with the juice of half a lemon and a dessert-spoonful of walnut ketchup. 232. LAMB CHOPS A LA BOULANGäRE. Cut and trim neatly cutlets enough for a small entre–) say ten or twelve—season highly with salt and pepper and a little cayenne, dip them gently in olive-oil and then in flour. Broil them over a slow fire. While they 88 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. are doing, put a gill of cream in a stew-pan, set it on the fire, and when boiling add two ounces of fresh butter, a tablespoonful of chopped chervil, the juice of half a lemon, and a little pepper and salt; stir quickly till it forms a nice smooth sauce; pour it over the cutlets when done, and serve quickly. Fillets of veal or rabbits are good done in this way. 233. MUTTON CUTLETS AUX CONCOMBRES. Take a neck of mutton, cut it into chops, and trim them nicely. Chop some parsley and shallot very fine, and put them in a little melted butter; dip the chops in this and then into bread-crumbs. Put them in the frying-pan, and fry of a fine light brown. Prepare two cucumbers by cutting them in four quarters, removing all the seeds; cut them in oval shapes about an inch long; boil them in half vinegar and water till tender. Make a sauce with the trimmings of the cutlets, some minced shallot and herbs; put the cucumbers into the sauce and make them very hot. Serve in the centre of the dish with the cutlets arranged round. 234. IRISH STEW. Four pounds of potatoes, and a pound and a half of mutton, six or seven good sized onions, and one carrot. Cut the meat in moderate sized pieces, if the breast or scrag end of the neck, or in cutlets. Add three pints of water; stew very slowly till the potatoes are nearly done to a pulp; a few more potatoes should be added about half an hour before it is ready to serve. Season with pepper and salt. This is enough for six or seven persons. MEAT, POULTEY, GAME. 89 . 235. LAMB CHOPS 1 L'AFRICAINE. Cut a lamb chop or cutlet, broil over a very sharp fire, turning it continually; when nearly done season highly with salt and pepper, and rub a spoonful of chutnee on both sides of each cutlet, put them again on the gridiron; broil for another minute and serve. 236. LAMB'S HEAD STOVE. Wash and trim the head carefully, then put it on to stew in some good stock. When nearly done enough add a good quantity of spinach well washed and coarsely chopped; thicken the sauce with a little flour, and sea- son with pepper and salt. It will take rather more than an hour to stew; two or three young onions minced and added is an improvement. Serve all together in a deep dish. 237. LAMB'S HEAD AND FRY. Skin the head and split it, take out the tongue and brains, wash and clean it, and the liver, heart, and lights, and lay the whole to soak in boiling water for half an hour; then put on the head to boil, it will require a little more than three hours. While it is boiling take the fry and mince it very small, put it on to stew in a quart of veal broth; add some minced parsley, a little ketchup, a spoonful of cream, a small piece of butter rolled in flour, and season with pepper and salt. When the head is sufficiently boiled brush it over with the yolk of an egg; sprinkle it with chopped herbs and bread-crumbs, baste it with butter, and brown it in a Dutch oven or before the fire. Keep the mince hot while it is browning, then 90 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. lay it in the dish with the head over, and garnish with the brains, and the tongue cut in half lengthways. They should be separately stewed in broth, and a little lemon- juice squeezed over the brains just before serving. 238. QUEUES DE MOUTON. Take five mutton tails, put them on a gentle fire with some broth, a bunch of parsley and small onions, half a clove of garlic, a bay-leaf, thyme and sweet basil, two cloves, and a little pepper and salt; when thoroughly done take them out to drain and cool. Take six ounces of rice, wash it in warm water, strain what broth may be left from stewing the tails, if not enough add a little more broth, put in the rice and stew till it is quite tender; when ready make a foundation of the rice on the dish you mean to serve it in, lay the mutton tails quite separate on the rice, cover them over with the remainder of the rice; glaize the outside with an egg, put the dish into the oven with a tin cover over till the rice forms a crust, tilt the dish that any grease may drain off. Wipe the dish clean and serve very hot. 239. LANGUES DE MOUTON. Blanch them, cut them longitudinally through the middle, and put them on the gridiron over a clear fire. When done enough serve with a sauce piquante. (See Sauces.) 240. EMiNci OF MOUTON. Mince the meat of an uncooked loin of mutton with half a pound of the fat; add a spoonful of salt, a teaspoon- MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 01 ful of pepper, two large onions cut in dice, a pint of green peas, four cucumbers cut in dice, a lettuce, a sprig of thyme, and a quarter of a pound of butter, with four spoonfuls of water; let all stew together for three hours, and serve with rice round. Celery or asparagus may be used instead of peas. 241. HASHED VENISON OK MUTTON. For gravy boil a part of the bone and trimmings of a cold haunch in a little water, season with peppercorns and salt. Strain and thicken it with a bit of butter rolled in flour; add a glass of port wine, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, and one of currant jelly. When hot add the venison cut in thin slices, heat it thoroughly and serve with sippets of toasted bread. Cold haunch of mutton may be dressed in the same way. / 242. HASHED MUTTON A LA NELL GWYNNE. Half a pint of mushroom ketchup, half a pint of white wine vinegar, half a dozen shallots sliced fine and stewed for two hours in this liquor; then put in a pound of previously parboiled collops of mutton, and stew gently till ready to serve. 243. BEEF 1 LA VINAIGRETTE. Cut a slice of underdone boiled beef three inches thick, see that some fat is with it. Stew it in half a pint of water, a glass of white wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, and a bay leaf. Season it with pepper and three cloves pounded; let it stew till the liquor is nearly wasted, turning it occasionally. Strain off what may be 92 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. left, to which add some vinegar, and when the beef has become cold serve it with it for sauce. 244. HASHED MUTTON. Rub a little flour and butter in a stew-pan till brown, then add as much more butter as will make it the con- sistence of good cream, put in some chopped onions, let them stew till tender. Cut three slices of mutton lean and fat about an inch in size, put them into the sauce with some pepper and salt, a spoonful of ketchup or Harvey, some chopped gherkins, or hot pickles. Make very hot and serve. 245. TOURTE DE C6TELETTES DE MOUTON A LA PERIGORD. Take a neck of mutton, cut into short thick cutlets, and arrange them in your pie dish, or in a raised crust. Take as many middle-sized truffles as cutlets, peel and place between each cutlet; season with a little salt and mixed spices, cover it with thin slices of bacon, and over that a layer of good butter about the thickness of a shilling, cover the whole in with pie crust, and bake for three hours. When done raise the top of your crust and pour in a glass of wine warmed, with two tablespoonfuls of cullis. Skim off any grease with a spoon, and replace the crust. 246. PERDREAUX AU CELERY BLANC. Take three partridges, make a forcemeat of the livers and stuff them with it; blanch them in a hot marinade for a few minutes. Spit them across, lay on them slices MEAT, POULTRY, GAMK. 93 of bacon, cover them with paper, and roast them gently about twenty-five minutes. For your sauce take the white part of six or eight heads of c rslery, split them two or three times, and cut in pieces about an inch long, blanch them a few minutes in water, then boil them in good broth for an hour; put in a bit of butter mixed with flour a liaison of four or five eggs beaten up with some cream, a little pepper and salt; pour it into the sauce when it is boiling hot; move it about for a minute on the stove, squeeze in a little lemon-juice. Take the partridges off the spit, and serve with this sauce over them. It is also excellent with boiled partridges, chicken, or pheasant. 247. POULETS AUX PETITS Pois. Cut your chickens into pieces, put them into a stew-pan, with a pint of green peas, a bit of butter, a bunch of parsley, and some small onions; set the pan for a minute or two on the fire, then add a good pinch of flour, and moisten sufficiently with half broth half gravy. Stew slowly till quite tender and reduced to the proper quantity. Just before serving, season with a small quantity of salt and a little sugar. 248. FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN. Parboil your chickens, skin them, cut them in pieces, and put them in a stew-pan with some strong broth, whole pepper, a blade of mace, a little salt, two anchovies, and a green onion. When nearly done, add half a pint of cream, a very little bit of butter mixed very smoothly in flour, and a teaspoonful of mushroom powder. Stir 94 MEAT, POULTEY, GAME. over the fire till it thickens. Beat up the yolks of two eggs, mix them in carefully, add the juice of an orange or lemon, strain it off, dish the chicken, and pour the sauce over. 249. ANOTHER FRICASSEE. Skin your chickens, cut off the shanks and pinion bones, separate the legs, wings, and breast, break the leg bones with a rolling pin, remove the bones, put all the flesh into water, and blanch over a stove. When this is done, put them again into cold water. When they have soaked a little while, take out and drain them, put them into a stew-pan, with a little melted bacon, a small piece of fresh butter, a bunch of herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, and some mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper. Toss all this up together over a stove, then moisten with half broth half water, and set it over a gentle fire. Beat up the yolks of four eggs in cream, and mix in it a little shred parsley, peas, or asparagus- tops, or use it plain. When the liquor is diminished enough, thicken it with the eggs and cream without removing it from the stove, and serve when sufficiently done. 250. POULETS 1 L'ESTRAGON. Boil for a quarter of an hour a large pinch of tarragon leaves, throw them into cold water, press and hash them. Mix about a quarter of this with the chickens' livers minced, a little salt and pepper, and a bit of butter. Put this kind of forcemeat inside the chickens, cover the breasts with a slice of fat bacon or lard, and roast them in paper about twenty-five to thirty minutes. Put the rest of the hashed tarragon into a stew-pan, with MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. . 95 a bit of butter the size of a large walnut rubbed in a little flour, two yolks of eggs, half a glass of gravy, two spoonfuls of good broth, a few drops of vinegar, some whole pepper, and salt. Thicken your sauce on the fire without letting it boil, lest the eggs should turn. Take the paper and bacon off your chickens, place them on a dish, and pour the sauce hot over them. 251. CAPILOTADE OF CHICKEN. Cut up two chickens that have been either roasted or boiled previously, skin them, and put them into a stew- pan, with a piece of butter rolled in flour, set them on the fire for a few minutes, then pour a brown Italienne over (see Sauces), and let them simmer a quarter of an hour over a slow fire. Take care the sauce does not stick to the pan. Add to the sauce either capers or minced gherkins. Fry some thin slices of bread of a light-brown, glaze; then arrange them round the dish, with the chicken in the centre, and pour the sauce over. 252. MATELOTTE DE PETITS POULETS. Cut up your chickens as for a fricassee, legs and wings, pinions, and the breasts and backs, into two, put them into boiling water on the fire for two or three minutes, then place them in a stew-pan with a slice or two of ham, a ladleful of mixed veal gravy and cullis, a bunch of onions and parsley, a little sweet basil, half a shallot, some pepper and salt; stew all together gently for an hour. Then strain the sauce, add some more cullis, a few button mushrooms or sliced truffles, a squeeze of orange or lemon-juice; dish the chicken, pour the sauce over 96 MEAT, POOLTRY, GAME. and serve. This may be varied with peas or asparagus tops, instead of mushrooms or truffles. 253. COLD MINCED CHICKEN AUX FINES HERBES. Mince some mushrooms and sweet herbs, add mace, pepper, lemon zest, and a little salt, two tablespoonfuls of cream, and a piece of butter. Stew them together till the whole are well cooked, then remove the herbs; add the white meat of a cold chicken previously minced, some finely minced chervil and parsley, and the squeeze of a lemon. Just heat it thoroughly and serve with fried croustades of bread round it 254. To DRESS COLD CHICKEN, VEAL, OR GAME. Cut them up and put them into a good well-seasoned stock, let it come to a boil, and then set it to simmer for half an hour; add a small piece of butter rubbed in flour, a boned anchovy, a minced onion, and a small piece of shallot, a little salt and cayenne, and a tablespoonful of port wine. Let it stew together about ten minutes longer; shake it frequently and it will be ready to serve. 255. FOR AN ASPIC OF FILLETS OF CHICKEN. First put a little aspic into the mould to acquire a sub- stance. When it is set cut some shapes of hard-boiled yolks and whites of eggs, truffles, gherkins, and beetroot; when you have arranged all these decorations pour in some liquid aspic gently to settle all together, and put it in the mould on the ice to freeze, then arrange the fillets of chicken previously cooked, skinned, and cut in a good HEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 97 shape, neatly all round, pour in as much more aspic as will set the chicken, then put round and over the chicken some mayonnaise or Beurre de Montpellier, over this as much cold aspic as will cover it, otherwise the butter or sauce would dilute in the jelly and cause it to look muddy. Fill the mould now with the liquid aspic as full as it will hold and let it freeze. When ready to serve dip a cloth in hot water, wrap it round the outside of the mould, which will loosen it, and turn it out on the dish. 256. L'Asrio FOR THE ABOVE. Take a handful of aromatic herbs, such as burnet, chervil, and tarragon, boil them in white vinegar; when the vinegar is well flavoured pour into the stew-pan some reduced consomme1 of fowl . Season with salt and pepper and a little spice, then break the whites of four eggs into a pan, and whisk them well, pour the aspic on them, and put the whole again in a stew-pan on the fire, keep beating and stirring till the jelly gets white, it is then very near boiling, put it on the corner of the stove with a cover over it and a little fire on the top; when quite clear and bright strain it through a jelly bag or sieve, and it is ready to use when wanted. 257. ANOTHER ASPIC. Put a knuckle of veal, a small part of a knuckle of ham, and some trimmings of fowl or game into a small stock- pot, with onions, carrots, a bunch of sweet herbs, pepper and salt; pour over half a bottle of white wine and some good broth; let it boil gently for four hours, then skim off all the fat and strain it through a silk sieve; H 98 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. put it into a stew-pan with two spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, four whites of eggs, and if you think it requires it, some more pepper and salt. Stew it on the fire till it becomes very white, then set it on one side with a little fire over the cover, when you find it clear drain it through a jelly bag. If this is required for garnishing raised pies or galantine, the vinegar may be omitted. 258. MAYONNAISE DE PERDKEAUX. Roast three partridges, leave them to cool, cut them in pieces, put them in a pan with four shallots, a little tarra- gon and burnet minced, four spoonfuls of oil, three large ones of broken aspic jelly, a little pepper and salt, and a large spoonful of tarragon vinegar. Mix all well together, dish the partridges, putting the breasts and backs at the bottom, and the other pieces round, cover with a good mayonnaise (see Sauces), and garnish with aspic jelly, or beurre de Montpellier. Chicken can be done the same. 259. SCOLLOPS OF FOWL A L'ESSENCE DE CONCOMBRES. Take the white-meat of three fowls, and cut it into scollops the size of a half-crown piece, put them into a frying-pan with a little butter, and fry them on both sides over a brisk fire for a few minutes, taking care they do not brown. Cut four or five cucumbers into slices, the same shape and size; put them into a basin with a little salt and half a glass of vinegar, let them soak in this one hour, then drain them on a napkin, and put them into a stew-pan with a small piece of butter; let them fry a little without colouring, sprinkle a spoonful of flour over them, add sufficient broth to cover them MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 99 well, a small bit of sugar, and a bundle of parsley and green onions. When the cucumbers are sufficiently done, lay them on a dish covered over till you want them. Take the parings, fry them in a stew-pan with a little butter, add the sauce in which you have boiled the cucumbers, skim off all the butter and fat, reduce the sauce till it is quite thick, add all the juice that may have escaped from the cucumbers in stewing them, and three spoonfuls of bechamel; rub the whole through a tammy. Now put into the same the scollops of chicken and the cucumbers, add a little salt, and, if the sauce is too thick, a spoonful of double cream. Heat all thoroughly, and serve, garnished with small forms of light pastry round the dish. 260. TURKEY AUX TRUFFES. Put two dozen peeled truffles into godiveau or forcemeat, and fill the breast of the turkey; let it remain in for a week before it is roasted; serve with sauce aux truffes. Pheasants or fowl may be done in the same way. 261. UNE DINDE EfiTiE PARFAITE. Cover the turkey with slices of bacon and white paper; just before it is quite done take off both bacon and paper, that it may get a nice brown. Stuff it with fifty chestnuts, a little sausage meat, and two pounds of truffles. A turkey requires about forty-five minutes to roast. 262. TURKEY LEGS. Take a sweetbread, clean and scald it, cut it in square 100 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. pieces the size of dice, cut some mushrooms as nearly as possible the same shape; put them into a saucepan, with some grated bacon, parsley, small onions, shallot, and sweet basil, minced fine, some coarse pepper, and the yolks of two eggs; shake them well together. Take two raw turkey legs, remove the bones, leaving just a little bit at the end for show. Stuff the legs with the sweetbread, etc.; sew them up, so that nothing can come out. Put them to stew in a glass of good broth, one of white wine; add a bunch of parsley and small onions, and a little salt. Cover with slices of bacon, and stew over a gentle fire. When done, and but little sauce remains, skim it, take off the bacon and the bunch of parsley, add two spoonfuls of cullis, and thicken with yolk of an egg, and serve just before sending to table. Squeeze over the legs a little orange-juice. 263. PIGEONS A LA TAETARE. Singe your pigeons, truss them as for boiling, flatten them with a cleaver on the dresser as thin as you can without breaking the skin of the breast or back; season them with pepper and salt, dip them in melted butter, and dredge them with grated bread-crumbs. Broil them on a gridiron half an hour before you want them, turning them often, and broiling them thoroughly. Make the sauce as follows :—Mince a spoonful of parsley very fine, a shallot or a piece of onion, two spoonfuls of pickles, and a boned anchovy; mince all separately very fine, then squeeze over them the juice of a lemon, add half a spoonful of water, six spoonfuls of oil, and a little pepper; mix all these ingredients together, and just as you are MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 101 going to serve, rub in a spoonful of mustard. Put the sauce into the dish and the pigeons over it, and serve. 26d. POULETS A LA TARTARE. Cut the chicken in half, singe it over the fire, marinade it with a little melted butter, one clove of garlic, two or three small onions, some parsley and mushrooms, all hashed together, a little pepper and salt. Cover it with bread-crumbs, and boil over a sharp fire. Serve with a tartare or piquante sauce (see Sauces). Grouse is excel- lent dressed in the same way. 265. To STEW OLD PARTRIDGES. Put them in a stew-pan, with a little salt, pepper, a bunch of parsley, small onions, thyme, two bay leaves, some sweet basil, a clove of garlic, and as much broth as will cover them. Stew gently over a slow fire till all the broth is exhausted; let them brown just a little, and serve with a sauce poivrade (see Sauces). 266. SALMI OF GROUSE OR PARTRIDGE. Cut them in joints, put the trimmings with some stock into a stew-pan, boil it an hour, strain and skim off the fat, thicken with brown roux, put in a little onion and shallot minced fine, put it on to boil again. A little be- fore serving put in the game; season with salt and pepper, and make it very hot; if for boiled duck add a glass of port wine, and the squeeze of a lemon. 267. FILLETS OP TURKEY. Cut the breast of a turkey in collops, put some broth of 100 - MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. pieces the size of dice, cut some mushrooms as nearly as possible the same shape ; put them into a saucepan, with some grated bacon, parsley, small onions, shallot, and sweet basil, minced fine, some coarse pepper, and the yolks of two eggs; shake them well together. Take two raw turkey legs, remove the bones, leaving just a little bit at the end for show. Stuff the legs with the sweetbread, etc.; sew them up, so that nothing can come out. Put them to stew in a glass of good broth, one of white wine; add a bunch of parsley and small onions, and a little salt. Cover with slices of bacon, and stew over a gentle fire. When done, and but little sauce remains, skim it, take off the bacon and the bunch of parsley, add two spoonfuls of cullis, and thicken with yolk of an egg, and serve just before sending to table. Squeeze over the legs a little orange-juice. 263. PIGEONS A LA TARTARE. Singe your pigeons, truss them as for boiling, flatten them with a cleaver on the dresser as thin as you can without breaking the skin of the breast or back; season them with pepper and salt, dip them in melted butter, and dredge them with grated bread-crumbs. Broil them on a gridiron half an hour before you want them, turning them often, and broiling them thoroughly. Make the sauce as follows:–Mince a spoonful of parsley very fine, a shallot or a piece of onion, two spoonfuls of pickles, and a boned anchovy; mince all separately very fine, then squeeze over them the juice of a lemon, add half a spoonful of water, six spoonfuls of oil, and a little pepper; mix all these ingredients together, and just as you are MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 101 - going to serve, rub in a spoonful of mustard. Put the sauce into the dish and the pigeons over it, and serve. 264. Poul ETs A LA TARTARE. Cut the chicken in half, singe it over the fire, marinade it with a little melted butter, one clove of garlic, two or three small onions, some parsley and mushrooms, all hashed together, a little pepper and salt. Cover it with bread-crumbs, and boil over a sharp fire. Serve with a tartare or piquante sauce (see Sauces). Grouse is excel- lent dressed in the same way. 265. To STEW OLD PARTRIDGES. Put them in a stew-pan, with a little salt, pepper, a bunch of parsley, small onions, thyme, two bay leaves, some sweet basil, a clove of garlic, and as much broth as will cover them. Stew gently over a slow fire till all the broth is exhausted ; let them brown just a little, and serve with a sauce poivrade (see Sauces). 266. SALMI OF GROUSE OR PARTRIDGE. Cut them in joints, put the trimmings with some stock into a stew pan, boil it an hour, strain and skim off the fat, thicken with brown roux, put in a little onion and shallot minced fine, put it on to boil again. A little be- fore serving put in the game ; season with salt and pepper, and make it very hot ; if for boiled duck add a glass of port wine, and the squeeze of a lemon. 267. FILLETS OF TURKEY. Cut the breast of a turkey in collops, put some broth of 102 MEAT, POULTRY. GAME. veal into a stew-pan, with an onion and a bunch of sweet herbs. Let it boil rather more than half an hour; strain and thicken it with white roux and a little cream; beat up the collops in this; add salt and pepper, and the squeeze of a lemon. A little finely-minced parsley may be added. 268. JUGGED HARE. Cut the hare in moderate-sized pieces, wash it and put it into a stone jar, just large enough to hold it, with a bunch of sweet herbs, some lemon-peel, a large onion with five cloves stuck in it, a quarter of a pint of port or claret wine, and the juice of a lemon; tie the top of the jar down with a bladder, so that no steam may escape; put the jar into a saucepan of boiling water sufficiently deep to cover it; keep the water boiling nearly three hours. Take it out, strain the gravy from the fat, and thicken it with flour and give it a boil up; lay the hare on the dish, and pour the sauce over it. Serve with currant jelly. 269. CANARD 1 LA BEARNOISE. Stew a duck in a little broth, half a glass of white wine, a bunch of parsley, thyme, sweet basil, and small onions, two bay leaves, and two cloves. Put into another stew- pan seven or eight large onions cut in slices and a bit of butter; pass them on the fire, turning often till they get a colour; then add a good pinch of flour; moisten with the liquor the duck was stewed in; stew the onions and reduce the sauce; skim off the fat, and add a squeeze of lemon or a few drops of vinegar, pour it over the duck, and serve. MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 103 270 CANARD 1 PUREE VERTE. Take rather more than a pint of green pease, boil them in a little broth, and rub them smooth through a sieve; stew a duck in broth, with salt, whole pepper, half a clove of garlic, some small onions, parsley, thyme, basil, and bay leaves. When done enough, pass the sauce through a sieve, and add it to the puree of peas; re- duce the whole to a good consistency, about that of thick cream. Serve the duck with the purcSe over it. 271. EAGOUT OF DUCK. Half-roast the duck and cut it into joints, put it into a stew-pan with a pint and a half of broth, a large onion with four cloves stuck in it, a little whole allspice and black peppercorns, and the rind of half a lemon cut thin ; when it boils, skim it well; then put the lid on the saucepan, and let it simmer an hour and a half. Put into another stew-pan two ounces of butter, and work into it as much flour as will make a stiff paste; strain the sauce from the duck to this, mixing it by degrees; when it boils, add a glass of port wine, a squeeze of lemon, and a spoonful of salt. Put the duck, which you will have kept very hot, into the dish, and strain the sauce over. Serve with sippets of fried bread. 272. SALMI DE BECASSINES. Take three woodcocks or four snipes, divide them, cut them in joints—the breast and backs in two pieces—lay them aside on a plate, and in the dish on which the birds 104 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. were cut, and which ought to be of silver, break up the livers and trail of the birds; squeeze over them the juice of four lemons; add the peel of one minced very fine; then place the birds on the dish, seasoned with a few pinches of salt, a little white pepper, nutmeg, and cay- enne, two spoonfuls of French mustard, and half a glass of white wine. Put the silver dish over a spirit lamp; keep moving each piece that the seasoning may penetrate and mix properly. Do not allow it to boil, but just as it comes to it put out the lamp, sprinkle with a little good olive-oil, keep stirring it for a minute or two, and serve instantly that it may be as hot as possible. All sorts of game is good dressed in this way. 273. SALMI OF WOODCOCK. Cut in pieces two woodcocks, previously half roasted; put them into a stew-pan, with three quarters of a pint of gravy, an onion with two or three cloves stuck in it, an anchovy, a piece of butter rolled in flour, a little cay- enne, and salt to taste; simmer for about a quarter of an hour, but do not let it boil; then put in a glass of red wine and a squeeze of lemon. The livers and trails should be bruised in the sauce. Serve very hot. \ 274. SALMI OF DUCK. Cut off the fillets of roasted duck, and the rest of it in pieces; mix salt and cayenne pepper together: sprinkle it over them; add half a wine glass of olive-oil, a glass of claret, and the juice of two Seville oranges; shake it / well over the fire till very hot, and serve. •-. MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 107 280. LAPEREAUx AUx FINES HERBEs. Cut two rabbits or leverets in pieces, trim and put them into a stew-pan with some butter, salt, and pepper; some parsley, shallot, and mushrooms all minced. Pass them over the fire for a quarter of an hour, squeeze a lemon over them, and serve. 281. To ROAST GAME. No game can be good that is not carefully roasted and thoroughly well basted. It is more tender if cooked imme- diately than if kept a night; burying it in the ground for a few hours if required to eat immediately makes it more tender; about three days is the best time to keep it. Ducks should be roasted but a short time, and basted with their own drippings, a little butter, and port wine. Partridges will require about twenty minutes, grouse twenty-five, snipe and woodcocks fifteen ; the latter should have buttered paper over them till they are nearly done, it is better than bacon, which spoils their flavour; a hare requires about an hour, and should be basted with cream and dredged with flour. 282. TO ROAST GROUSE. Two brace of birds will require a pound of fresh butter to baste them; the butter should be put in a basin and allowed to melt before the fire. The birds should not be placed too near the fire at first, and should be basted soon after they are put down, and this should be con- tinued without intermission till they are ready to serve. If you wish to serve them English fashion with a gravy, you must make it from grouse, as all meat gravy would 106 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. spoonfuls of chili vinegar, and four of oil. Mix all well together; whip half a pint of cream, which add by degrees to the sauce, and pour over the salad; do not mix it till you help it. 278. SALMI DE CHASSEUR. Roast three partridges as for other salmis; put into a stew-pan three spoonfuls of oil, half a glass of claret, or other red wine, salt and pepper, cayenne, and the juice and zest of a lemon; put in the partridges previously cut up, toss them over the fire in this sauce till they are very hot, and serve. 279. SALMI 1 L'ANCIENNE. Prepare three partridges, lard and roast them, let them be underdone; when cold cut them in pieces, take off the skin, pare and arrange them in a stew-pan, pour over a little stock, and set them to simmer; add six shallots and a little lemon-peel, also four large spoonfuls of re- duced espagnole (see Sauces), let it reduce half, pass the sauce through a tammy. Take the trimmings and parings of the partridges, moisten them with a little of the sauce, pound them in a mortar as fine as possible, and rub through a tammy; pour this pur6e over the partridges in the stew-pan, heat it in a bain marie, arrange the salmi in a dish with fried croutons of bread between each piece, and pour the sauce very hot round. Pheasant is excellent dressed the same way, but should have the addition of a glass of red or white wine, the juice and a small bit of the peel of a Seville orange. MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 107 280. LAPEKEAUX AUX FINES HERBES. Cut two rabbits or leverets in pieces, trim and put them into a stew-pan with some butter, salt, and pepper; some parsley, shallot, and mushrooms all minced. Pass them over the fire for a quarter of an hour, .squeeze a lemon over them, and serve. 281. To ROAST GAME. No game can be good that is not carefully roasted and thoroughly well basted. It is more tender if cooked imme- diately than if kept a night; burying it in the ground for a few hours if required to eat immediately makes it more tender; about three days is the best time to keep it. Ducks should be roasted but a short time, and basted with their own drippings, a little butter, and port wine. Partridges will require about twenty minutes, grouse twenty-five, snipe and woodcocks fifteen; the latter should have buttered paper over them till they are nearly done, it is better than bacon, which spoils their flavour; a hare requires about an hour, and should be basted with cream and dredged with flour. 282. To EOAST GROUSE. Two brace of birds will require a pound of fresh butter to baste them; the butter should be put in a basin and allowed to melt before the fire. The birds should not be placed too near the fire at first, and should be basted soon after they are put down, and this should be con- tinued without intermission till they are ready to serve. If you wish to serve them English fashion with a gravy, you must make it from grouse, as all meat gravy would 108 MEAT, POULTKY, GAME. spoil this bird; while they are roasting thin slices of crisp toast should be placed to receive the drippings, and a piece placed under each bird when served. In the Scotch fashion make some toast like buttered toast, crisp it before the fire, place it under the birds, and serve with thin melted butter. All should be very hot. 283. THE ADMIRAL'S GURRY. Put about an ounce of butter into a stew-pan, and as soon as it is hot slice into it four onions, some carrots and turnips; let them brown over a sharp fire, and rub through a tammy. When done sufficiently, then add some good veal stock to the sauce, a teaspoonful of curry powder, and one of curry paste, also a dessert-spoonful of chutnee. Mix all this well together with a wooden spoon for about ten minutes; now put in whatever meat you choose—rabbit, fowl, or fish—cut in rather small pieces; stew over a smart fire, adding occasionally a little weak broth or milk that the curry may not get too dry. Let all simmer together, and an excellent curry will be the result. Milk is considered a great improve- ment to curry, either sweet or butter milk; if the former is used, a little lemon-juice should be added to it. In India fresh tamarinds are used with it. The sauce from pickled mangoes is a great improvement; it should not be put into the sauce, but eaten with the curry. 284. To BOIL THE RICE. Throw the rice, having first well washed it, into boiling water; there must be enough quite to cover it. Let it boil exactly sixteen minutes, but not too fast. When MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 109 done sufficiently, and while still boiling, dash some cold water into the pot, and immediately remove it from the fire, throw the rice into the colander to drain; cover it with a napkin, and when all the water has completely drained from it serve. N.B.—The dash of cold water has the effect of sepa- rating the grains of rice. 285. THE GENERAL'S CURRIES.—A DRY CURRY. Two or three common-sized onions to be sliced and fried brown in a little butter, and then worked into a paste with water, a tablespoonful of curry powder, and a little salt. Cut up the fowl, meat, or fish, add it, and stir up the whole without ceasing till the meat is thoroughly cooked. 286. A WET CURRY. Cut the meat, fowl, or fish into small pieces; put them, with a piece of butter and two or three onions sliced, into a stew-pan; fry them till brown. When nearly done, add a tablespoonful of the curry powder and some salt, and simmer the whole gently, with a little water or broth, until it is sufficiently cooked. Remember to keep constantly stirring. 287. To BOIL THE RICE. Put two quarts of water in a stew-pan, with a table- spoonful of salt; when boiling add half a pound of rice, well washed. Boil for about ten minutes till the grains become rather soft. Drain into a colander. Slightly grease the pot with butter, and put the rice back into it. 110 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. Let it swell slowly for twenty minutes, either near the fire or in a slow oven. Each grain will then swell and be well separated, when it is ready to serve. 288. CURRY POWDER. 8 O Z. Coriander seed, well washed - - - Turmeric - - - - - - Dried ginger - - - • * * - Black pepper Dried chilis - - - - - - Cardamoms Cinnamon - - - - - - Garlic - i 289. BENGAL CURRY POWDER. Black pepper - - - - – 5 oz. Cayenne pepper - - - - - 1 » Coriander seed - - - - - 13 , Fenugreek seed - - - - - 3 , Cummin seed - - - - - 3 , Turmeric - - - - - - 10 , 290. THE PROFESSOR'S CURRY. Take a good handful of onions sliced, and put them, with two ounces of butter, into a stew-pan; let them stew till quite soft, then fry them very brown and take them out of the butter. Cut whatever meat you intend to curry into small pieces, put them into the butter, and fry them brown also. Then take them out, and put in two teaspoonfuls of curry powder, and fry it till all the N MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 111 butter is absorbed. Now put back the onions and meat into the pan with the curry powder, and pour sufficient milk over the whole to cover it, squeeze in a little lemon- juice, add a spoonful of salt, and let the whole stew very gently till all the liquid is absorbed, and like a paste over the meat. It is essential that this curry be cooked in a stew not a frying pan. Buttermilk may be used if preferred ; in that case leave out the lemon-juice. 291. To BOIL THE RICE. It should first be well washed, and then put into plenty of water, not less than a quart to a quarter of a pound of rice. This may be either hot or cold. It must be boiled as fast as possible, and will require about twenty minutes. When the water assumes a white appearance it is usually done enough ; but the rice should be tried to be sure it is soft. Pour the water off, and lay the rice on a sieve to drain, covered over with a cloth. As soon as all the moisture is absorbed it is ready to serve, and should be quite soft, and each grain separate. 292. THE BARONET's CURRY. Take a young fowl and divide it as for a fricassée, re- moving all the skin and fat; mix a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper with two tablespoonfuls of curry powder; rub it well into the fowl. Cut eight large-sized onions into shreds ; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a clean frying-pan, and set it over a clear fire ; take great care that the butter neither burns nor oils. As soon as it is well browned, put the fowl into it, keeping it on the fire and turning it frequently with a fork till it is well 110 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. Let it swell slowly for twenty minutes, either near the fire or in a slow oven. Each grain will then swell and be well separated, when it is ready to serve. 288. CURRY POWDER. Coriander seed, well washed - - - 8 oz. Turmeric - - - - - -9,, Dried ginger - - - - - - 8 „ Black pepper - - - - - 6 „ Dried chilis - - - - - - 2-J- „ Cardamoms - - - - - - 4 „ Cinnamon - - - - - -4,, Garlic - - 1 „ 289. BENGAL CURRY POWDER. Black pepper - - - - - 5 oz. Cayenne pepper - - - - - 1 „ Coriander seed - - - - -13,, Fenugreek seed - - - - - 3 „ Cummin seed - - - - - 3 „ Turmeric - - - - -10,, 290. THE PROFESSOR'S CURRY. Take a good handful of onions sliced, and put them, with two ounces of butter, into a stew-pan; let them stew till quite soft, then fry them very brown and take them out of the butter. Cut whatever meat you intend to curry into small pieces, put them into the butter, and fry them brown also. Then take them out, and put in two teaspoonfuls of curry powder, and fry it till all the MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. Ill butter is absorbed. Now put back the onions and meat into the pan with the curry powder, and pour sufficient milk over the whole to cover it, squeeze in a little lemon- juice, add a spoonful of salt, and let the whole stew very gently till all the liquid is absorbed, and like a paste over the meat. It is essential that this curry be cooked in a stew not a frying pan. Buttermilk may be used if preferred; in that case leave out the lemon-juice. 291. To BOIL THE EICE. It should first be well washed, and then put into plenty of water, not less than a quart to a quarter of a pound of rice. This may be either hot or cold. It must be boiled as fast as possible, and will require about twenty minutes. When the water assumes a white appearance it is usually done enough; but the rice should be tried to be sure it is soft. Pour the water off, and lay the rice on a sieve to drain, covered over with a cloth. As soon as all the moisture is absorbed it is ready to serve, and should be quite soft, and each grain separate. 292. THE BARONET'S CURRY. Take a young fowl and divide it as for a fricasse'e, re- moving all the skin and fat; mix a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper with two tablespoonfuls of curry powder; rub it well into the fowl. Cut eight large-sized onions into shreds; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a clean frying-pan, and set it over a clear fire; take great care that the butter neither burns nor oils. As soon as it is well browned, put the fowl into it, keeping it on the fire and turning it frequently with a fork till it is well 112 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. browned on both sides. Have ready a stew-pan which has been previously heated ; place the fowl in it, and put the onions into the frying-pan till they are browned; then add them to the fowl in the stew-pan, with a quarter of a pint of new milk, twenty almonds blanched and pounded, the juice of one lemon, a little salt, and a wine- glassful of fresh sorrel-juice; put the stew-pan on a gentle fire, and let it simmer, but not boil, for an hour and a half, frequently shaking it. Serve very hot. 293. CURRY POWDER FOR THE ABOVE. The best turmeric six ounces, coriander seed ten ounces, cummin seed two ounces, well pounded and sifted to- gether. Cayenne and black pepper to be added to taste when the curry is made. 294. To BOIL THE RICE. Wash the rice thoroughly in cold water; have some water boiling very fast (there should be plenty of it), and throw the rice in; boil about a quarter of an hour. To ascertain if it is done enough, rub a grain in your fingers, if it goes quite down, it is done enough; strain it into a colander; pour a cup of cold water over it, and put it back into a covered saucepan neax the fire till ready to serve. 295. RABBITS 1 LA PROVENCALS. /Cut the rabbits in pieces; put them in a stew-pan with some good olive-cal, salt and pepper, and some onions cut in slices; fry them of a light brown; take them out and dry them on a cloth. Then return the rabbits and onions MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 113 to the stew-pan with the addition of a clove of garlic minced fine, a small spoonful of espagnole, and some tomato saiice, and stew until sufficiently done. 296. HARE OR RABBIT HASHED OR STEWED. Cut them in pieces (the stew-pan should be flat, so that each piece may touch the bottom); heat the pan, then put in about half a spoonful of lard; place the pieces of hare or rabbit in the pan, so that each piece touches it; as soon as they begin to brown sprinkle them with two handfuls of flour (they should be browned on both sides); add a few small onions; let the pan remain five minutes over a moderate fire, then pour over a pint of boiling water; season with salt and pepper, two cloves, three allspice, and a bit of garlic about the size of a pea, two bay leaves, and a small bunch of parsley. Let the whole simmer slowly nearly an hour and a half; now add to the whole, half a bottle of good claret, and continue to simmer for two hours longer, when it will be ready to serve. Care must be taken not to have too much fire, or it will become dry. 297. FILETS PE LIEVRE EN POIVRADE. Take a hare that has been already roasted, cut the meat into fillets; if you have not enough to fill your dish you may leave the bones in, otherwise the meat alone is best. Place it in a stew-pan with some sauce poivrade (see Sauces); make it very hot, but do not let it boil, and serve with sippets of fried toast. 114 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 298. BOUDINS OF EABBIT. Boil the rabbit well; pick the meat from the bones; pound it very fine in a mortar with a small piece of butter; add a little good gravy, a little parsley, and sweet.herbs; season with pepper and salt; add a few bread-crumbs and three eggs; beat it up well. You may cook them in cups or timbale moulds. Butter and flour them first. Put in the boudins, and steam them about three-quarters of an hour. Turn them out, and serve with a rich bdchamel. If you have rabbits enough, use only the white meat. 299. QUENELLES OF CHICKEN. Take the breast of a fowl and scrape all the meat from the sinews, the same quantity of suet and shred it very fine. Put it in the mortar and pound as smooth as pos- sible ; then take the crumb of a penny roll, wet it in milk, add it to the meat in the mortar, and pound a little more; rub it through a fine sieve, return it to the mortar, and mix it thoroughly, first with one whole egg, and then with the white of another; season it with salt and pepper to taste, take it out with a tablespoon, smooth it over the top, and put each into a stew-pan with as much broth or water as will cover them. Ten minutes is sufficient to cook them. Serve with a be'chamel sauce. 300. QUENELLES AUX TEUFFES. Boil a young fowl, skin it, scrape all the white meat clear from sinews, pound it very fine in a mortar, soak some crumb of light bread either in broth or milk, boil a calf's MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 115 udder and pound that smooth also; mix all well to- gether; season it with pepper and salt; add three eggs and some minced truffles; mix well. Have ready some boiling water; take up a tablespoonful of the mixture, smooth it over, throw into the water, and poach like an egg. Serve with a strong clear gravy. 301. VEAL CAKE (COLD). Take a breast of veal; bone it and cut it into three parts; season it with cayenne pepper, white pepper, nutmeg, mace, cloves, and salt; mince a good quantity of parsley with two anchovies fine, and strew it over. Boil four eggs hard, cut them in halves; cut some lean bacon half an inch tnick; put a large slice of butter in a basin, then a piece of veal, stew it with the parsley, and lay over half the eggs, then slices of bacon, and so on till the basin is full. Lay the bones on the top to prevent it from get- ting dry; put it in a moderate oven for four hours. When you take it out, remove the bones, and lay a weight on to press it; make it solid; garnish with aspic-jelly and parsley, and eat it with any cold sauce you like, or vine- gar, mustard, and sugar. 302. BLANQUETTE OF VEAL 1 LA PAYSANNE. Roast a neck or loin of veal; when cold, cut it into collops; season well, and put it into a stew-pan with some sauce tournee (see Sauces), some finely-chopped parsley, and the juice of half a lemon. Reduce the sauce, and thicken with the yolk of an egg. Serve very hot. 116 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 303. TENDONS DE VEAU A LA EAVIGOTE. Stew the tendons very tender in broth; let them cool, turn them, arrange them neatly in your dish, and pour over a cold ravigote. Border the dish with beurre de Montpellier or aspic. . 304. VEAL CUTLETS. Take a leg of veal, cut the cutlets a neat size and shape, and beat them flat; strew over them a little black pepper and salt; beat up an egg with a little minced parsley and shallot; dip the cutlets into this, and then into bread- crumbs, and fry them a good brown. Serve with shallot- gravy or sauce piquante. 305. MACARONI PIE. Bone a fowl and cut it into quarters; blanch it, boil it tender with a few onions, thicken the gravy with the yolk of an egg. Wash the macaroni clean; boil it for a quarter of an hour; have about two ounces of Parmesan cheese grated; mix all together with pepper, salt, and a little good butter; then put it into a raised paste, and bake in a sharp oven for one hour. 306. CHICKEN PIE AUX FEUILLETAGES. Cover the bottom of the dish or pattypan with a light paste; cut your chickens as for a fricassee; lay them in and season with pepper, salt, and a bit of mace; put in a little bundle of green onions and parsley tied, and two spoonfuls of broth; cover with thin slices of bacon; put MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 117 the lid on neatly, and bake it about an hour and a half. Before serving, take off the top, remove the bacon and herbs, and skim off any fat. Have ready a ladleful of cullis, with some asparagus points or peas boiled; add the juice of a lemon, make it boiling hot, pour over the chickens, and serve. Young rabbits are good dressed in the same way. 307. VEAL PIE. Take the middle or scrag of a small neck, cut it into nice pieces, season with pepper and salt. Lay in the bottom of the pie-dish some slices of ham or bacon; then the veal and some hard-boiled yolks of eggs, a little minced parsley and green onions, and two spoonfuls of veal stock. Cover with a good puff paste, and bake about an hour and a half. 308. PARTRIDGE PIE, RAISED. Bone as many partridges as you will require for the size of the pie. Put inside a whole peeled raw truffle, and enough forcemeat to fill each. Make your raised pie- crust in a mould, lay a few thin slices of veal at the bottom and a layer of forcemeat, then the partridges; fill up the corners with truffles, cover over with slices of fat bacon, then with paste, and bake for four hours. It should be eaten cold. The forcemeat in the following receipt should be used. 309. PERIGORD PIE. Take eight small fat chickens, bone them; make forcemeat of half a pound of liver—fowl's, calves', or lamb—a piece of veal and a small bit of ham, a little salt, some pepper, 118 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. two boned anchovies, a very little allspice, and some cay- enne pepper, a little fresh chopped suet, and the yolks of eight eggs. Pound them all very fine in a stone mortar; stuff the chickens quite full, put them in the pie, and fill up all the spaces above and below with the stuffing. Truffles are a great improvement, and should be added both whole and minced with the forcemeat when they can be procured. All sorts of game make a good pie in this way. It should be eaten cold, and baked in a raised pie- crust between four and five hours 310. LARK PIE. Season the larks with pepper and salt, fill them with forcemeat, put them in a raised paste with forcemeat under and over, bake them one hour. Pour cullis or brown sauce over them when done. 311. SHEEP'S HEAD PIE (SCOTCH). Take a sheep's head and feet with the skin on; singe them till quite black, put them into warm water and scrape them clean; open the head, take out the brains, and put the head and trotters in a saucepan with a little water, an onion, a bay leaf, a little parsley, two cloves, and some salt. Stew six or seven hours. Take out the bones, and put the meat in a pie-dish; reduce the liquor they were stewed in; strain and pour over the meat. Let it get quite cold, then cover it with a puff-paste, and bake it till the crust is well browned. It is best eaten cold. 312. HARE PIE (SCOTCH). (Cut a hare in neat pieces; put it into a saucepan with MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 119 enough water to cover it, two or three onions, a carrot, and a bay leaf; stew it till tender, then place it in a pie- dish with its own liquor strained, and two glasses of port wine; season with pepper and salt, cover with a good puff-paste, and bake about an hour in an oven that is not very hot. 313. CALF'S HEAD PIE (SCOTCH). Scald and soak the head, and simmer for half an hour in a little water, with a knuckle of veal, the rind of a lemon, two onions, a faggot of parsley and winter savory, a few white peppercorns, and two blades of mace. Take up the head, and, when cold, cut into bits of different shapes. Skin and cut the tongue into square pieces. Boil the broth in which the head and knuckle was simmered with a few bits of isinglass till it is reduced to a strong jelly gravy. Place a layer of thin slices of lean ham at the bottom of the pie-dish, then some of the head and tongue, a little forcemeat made from the knuckle, hard yolks of eggs cut in two; season with white pepper, salt, a very little nutmeg, and a little grated lemon-peel. Fill the dish thus with alternate layers, pour in as much as it will hold^of the gravy jelly, cover it with puff-paste, and bake an hour. This is to be eaten cold. 314. CALF'S FEET PIE (SCOTCH). Clean and boil two feet till tender, but not too soft, mince the meat when cold with suet and pared apples in the proportion of a third part apples and suet to the calves' feet. Put into a pie-dish with a little strong gravy and a glass of white wine; season with a little pepper and salt; cover the dish with puff-paste, and bake 120 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. it rather more than half an hour. This is very light and nourishing. 315. PIGEON PIE. Put in the bottom of the pie-dish a good beef-steak, not cut too thick; truss and prepare six young pigeons, ar- range them in the dish, between each place the yolk of a hard-boiled egg; season with a quarter of an ounce of mixed salt and pepper, a sprinkle of minced parsley, and a very little cayenne pepper; add a wineglassful of veal stock, cover with a puff-paste not too thick, and bake one hour. 316. CHICKEN PIE. Cut the chickens in joints; blanch them; season with pepper and salt, a mixed spoonful of chopped mushrooms, parsley, and onions; add a few slices of ham or bacon. A layer below and one above the chicken arranged in the pie-dish is best. Fill it up with veal gravy in which you have previously boiled a few mushrooms ; put in also the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs. A little lemon-juice may also be added. Cover with puff-paste, and bake rather more than an hour. 317. CASSEROLLES OF EICE. Boil the rice well, and let it stand till nearly cold; then make it into round rolls with a small shape about the depth of a pattie. Cover them with egg and bread- crumbs, and fry them of an even light colour. When cold scoop out the inside, and fill them with either minced veal or chicken, well stewed with parsley and shallot, and mixed with a bechamel sauce. Make them hot, and serve with fried parsley. MEAT, GAME, POULTEY. 121 318. PETITS PATTIES. Cut some chicken in dice, put it into a saucepan with some be'cb.amel sauce, well seasoned with shallot. Reduce it a little and let it get cold. Line your pattie-pans with puff-paste, rather thin, and put a little of the meat in each. Stew them well. Sprinkle them over with bread-crumbs and some bits of fresh butter. Bake them twenty minutes in a quick oven, and serve hot. 319. LARKS EN EAGOUT. Take a dozen larks, put them in a stew-pan with a bit of butter, a bunch of sweet herbs, some mushrooms, and sweetbread cut small, a good pinch of flour, a glass of white wine, one of gravy, and some broth. Eeduce the same, skim it well, take out the herbs, season with pepper and salt, and serve hot. 320. EOAST SWEETBREADS. Trim a fine sweetbread (it cannot be too fresh); blanch or parboil it for five minutes, throw it into a basin of cold water; when cold dry it well on a cloth, run a lark spit or small skewer through it, tie it on the spit, and roast it either plain or egged with a brush, and well powdered with bread-crumbs. Serve with a clear sauce piquante. (See Sauces.) 321. EOGNONS DE BCEOT, ETC. Cut two kidneys in slices, put them into a stew-pan with two ounces of butter at the bottom, a spoonful of minced 122 MEAT, GAME, POULTRY. parsley, onion, and mushroom; cover them with fat bacon, and let them stew one hour. Strain the liquor off, and thicken with a spoonful of flour. Season with salt and pepper, half a glass of white wine, and the juice of a lemon. 322. KIDNEYS A LA BROCHETTE. Divide two or more kidneys, put them on a silver skewer, melt some butter, and with a paste-brush butter them well all over; set them upon the gridiron as near the fire as possible, for they cannot be done too quick. Turn them every minute, and when half done season with salt, pepper, and a little cayenne. Put them, skewer and all, on a hot plate, squeeze a little lemon juice over them, and serve. You may garnish them with beurre a la maitre d'hoteL 323. KIDNEYS SAUTE. Cut three kidneys each in five pieces; put an ounce of butter in the saute'-pan; when very hot put in the kidneys, stir round for a few minutes with a spoon till they are set. Add a teaspoonful of flour, quarter of a one of salt, and the third part of that of pepper. Mix well; add half a gill (about two tablespoonfuls) of broth, and a small wineglassful of either sherry, port, or champagne, and a few mushrooms. Do not let them boil; a few minutes is enough to do them. 324. A HAGGIS. Boil a sheep's lights and head, then mince them fine, add about the same quantity of suet, season with salt MEAT, GAME, POULTRY. 123 and pepper, a good handful of chopped onions, and two handfuls of oatmeal. Fill the bag (or paunch) half full, put into it about a pint of broth, sew it up, and boil gently between three and four hours. Some put in the liver minced, and sweet herbs and spices. 325. SCOTCH MINCED COLLOPS. This is simply a piece of lean raw beef minced very fine. They require about twenty minutes to cook. Put them in a saucepan, with a bit of butter to prevent their sticking. When they are hot add a teaspoonful of flour and a little gravy or water. They should be stirred often to prevent their getting lumpy, and are very light and nutritious. Onions may be added, or a little minced hot pickle, if liked. 326. HARE COLLOPS Are dressed in the same way, with the addition of a little claret. 327. CAPAKATA. Cut down a cold fowl, mince all the white very small, break the bones and the back, and put them, with the rest of the trimmings, a little water, a bit of lemon-peel, and a blade of mace, in a saucepan. Let it boil till all the substance is out of them; strain it off, thicken with a bit of butter rolled in flour and a little cream; chop some hard-boiled yolks of eggs, put them with the fowl into the sauce, give it two or three good boils. Just before dishing add a squeeze of lemon, a little salt, and cayenne pepper. Pepper and salt the legs, broil, and lay on the mince. 124 MEAT, GAME, POULTRY. 328. STEWED TRIPE. Select two pounds of double tripe well cleaned and blanched, cut in pieces of rather less than a quarter of a pound each; put in a clean stew-pan with a pint of milk and one of water, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, eight middle-sized onions carefully peeled. Set it on to boil, which it should do at first rather fast, then simmer till done, which will be in rather more than half an hour. Put it into a deep dish or tureen, and serve with the milk and onions. 329. TRIPE A. LA LYONNAISE. When any cold tripe remains, cut it in thin slices about an inch square and wipe it very dry. Mince two onioilfe, put some butter (in the proportion of three ounces to a pound of tripe) into a frying-pan with the onions; when they are about half done put in the tripe and let all fry for about ten minutes, season with pepper and salt, and three table-spoonfuls of vinegar to each pound of tripe. Serve very hot. This is a favourite dish in Lyons, both with the "gourmet" and the "gourmand." 330. GRATIN OF TRIPE. Cut each half pound, previously boiled, in four pieces. Stew it slowly in a pint of bechamel, in which you have mixed two teaspoonfuls of curry paste or powder, for half an hour. Add the yolks of two eggs, mix and stir quickly; place it in the dish it is to be served on, strew it with bread-crumbs. Stick a few bits of butter on the top, and place it for a minute or two in the oven. Pass a salamander over the top, and serve. MEAT, GAME, POULTRY. 125 331. BLACK PUDDINGS. When a large pig is killed, catch the blood in a basin, to each quart of blood put a large teaspoonful of salt, stir incessantly till it is cold; simmer, in the smallest possible quantity of water, a pint of Emeden groats till tender, but not the least reduced to gruel. To each quart of blood add one pound of the inside fat of the pig, chopped, but not too small, a quarter of a pint of bread-crumbs, a tablespoonful of sage, a teaspoonful of thyme minced fine, a quarter of an ounce each of allspice, salt, and pepper, and a teacupful of cream. When the blood is cold strain it through a sieve and mix it with the fat, then the groats, and lastly the seasoning; mix well, and fill the largest guts, previously well cleansed, tie in lengths of about nine inches, and boil gently for twenty minutes; when they have boiled a few minutes take them out and prick gently with a fork. 332. WHITE PUDDINGS. Boil a pint of good milk and a handful of bread-crumbs on the stove, turning often till the bread has absorbed all the milk and it is quite thick; leave it to cool. Cut six middle-sized onions in small pieces, brown them in a frying-pan with a good bit of butter. Then take half a pound of fat of the inside of the pig chopped, and mix with the onions on the fire, let it cool a few minutes, then take it off, put in the boiled bread-crumbs, six yolks of eggs, beaten up with about half a pint of cream. Stir all together. Season with salt, pepper, and some fine spices, and stuff the previously prepared gut, but 126 MEAT, GAME, POULTRY. not more than three parts full for fear of bursting. Tie in lengths of about six inches, put them gently into water which is quite boiling, and let them boil a quarter of an hour; take them out with a skimmer, and put them into cold water. Dry them. Broil in paper cases, and serve hot. 333. PORK SAUSAGES. The trimmings from the hams and part of the grisken, an equal quantity of fat and lean should be cut small with a knife, carefully removing any sinew or hard part, then chop it very fine with a chopper. Season with pepper, salt, and a little fine spice. Add a little finely- minced sage. Mix thoroughly, and fill the skins. They may either be boiled, fried, or broiled, and take about a quarter of an hour to do. 334. VEAL SAUSAGES. Chop equal quantities of the lean of veal and fat bacon, a handful of sage, a little salt and pepper, and three or four anchovies; beat all in a mortar, and when used, roll in balls or the shape of a sausage and fry; serve on mashed potatoes with fried sippets. 335. BEEF SAUSAGES. Chop two pounds of lean beef and one pound of suet very fine, a teaspoonful of powdered thyme, one of sage, and one of allspice; season with pepper and salt; put them in skins, previously well cleaned and washed. They may be fried or broiled, and are good served with stewed red cabbage. VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 337. To BOIL POTATOES. They should always be boiled in their skins, and are best served in them; but for those who dislike this, the skins can easily be removed before serving them. Choose them as much as possible of a size, that they may all be equally done; put them into a pot with barely sufficient water to cover them, and plenty of salt. As soon as the skins begin to crack, lift the pot from the fire, and drain off every drop of water; then either lay a cloth over the pot or put the lid on, not quite close, so that the steam may escape, and return them to the fire or set the pot close to it, till they are thoroughly done and quite dry. Some people, when the potatoes are boiling, drain off half the boiling water and replace it with cold, which is supposed to make more mealy at the heart. 338. BROILED POTATOES. When your potatoes are boiled, skin them, and lay them on a gridiron over a clear brisk fire, and turn them till they are brown all over. 339. ROASTED POTATOES Should be first parboiled, then skimmed and dredged with flour, and put in the dripping-pan, under the joint VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 129 that is roasting, about an hour before it is ready to serve. They should be browned all over, and carefully drained from the. dripping. 340. BAKED POTATOES Are best done in a Dutch oven; choose large ones; wash them very carefully, and put them in the oven in their skins. They require a long time doing; if large, about two hours. They should be eaten with cold butter, pepper, and salt. 341. POTATO FRITTERS (SCOTCH). Parboil half a dozen, or more if required, large kidney potatoes, cut them in slices about the thickness of a crown piece, beat up a couple of eggs with a table- spoonful of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and an equal quantity of lean ham grated. Dip each slice of potato in this mixture, and fry in plenty of good olive-oil. 342. MASHED POTATOES (INDIAN). Mash well boiled potatoes, taking out all defects; boil one or two onions tender, chop them small together with a few chilis or capsicums. Mix the whole well together; make it into a neat shape with a spoon, or put it into a mould, and bake for a short time in a moderate oven. 343. FRIED MASHED POTATOES. Roast twelve fine potatoes in the oven. When done, take out the insides and form them into a ball. When cold, put them into a mortar with a piece of butter half the K 130 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. size of the ball; pound them well together; season with a little salt and pepper, and a little minced shallot and parsley. Mix them with eight yolks and two whites of eggs. Form them into balls about the shape and size of a small egg. Bread-crumb them twice over; and fry them of a light brown colour in a stew-pan of hot lard. This is good to garnish roast meat, etc. 344. POTATO SNOW. Choose the whitest potatoes you can, and free from spots.' Put them on to boil in cold water with plenty of salt. When they begin to crack, drain the water from them, and put them into a clean stew-pan by the fire till they are quite dry and fall to pieces. Then rub them through a wire sieve on the dish they are to be served on, and do not touch them again. 345. POTATOES A LA LYONNAISE. You may either boil potatoes on purpose, or take the remains of cold ones. Cut them in slices about the size and thickness of half a crown. Put three ounces of butter into a frying-pan; slice three onions into it; fry them of a light colour; then put in the potatoes, and turn them about till they are a nice yellow. Add a spoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon; toss them well over the fire, that all may be thoroughly mixed, and serve very hot. They are very good to eat with cutlets. 346. POTATOES 1 LA MA!TRE Wash the potatoes clean, and boil them in salt and VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 131 water in their skins. When they are done, let them cool. Trim them round and cut them into moderately thick slices, and stew them a few minutes in a maitre d'h6tel sauce (see Sauces). If you should have none ready you can melt some butter, using milk instead of water; mix with it a little minced parsley, pepper, salt, a small bit of glaze, and the juice of a lemon. 347. FRIED POTATOES. Cut raw potatoes into the shape and size of large corks, and then into thinnish slices; throw them into hot clarified butter, and fry till they are crisp and of a good brown. Drain all the grease from them on a cloth, and serve very hot on a napkin, and sprinkle them over with a little fine salt. 348. MASHED POTATOES. The potatoes should be first thoroughly well boiled, carefully remove all defects or hard bits; mash them very small with a wooden spoon, adding as much cream as will make them the right consistence, and season with pepper and salt; or, instead of cream, you may use butter and boiling milk, and they can be browned after they are dressed in the dish they are to be served on in the Dutch oven. 349. POTATO SOUFFLES. Eoast eight potatoes in the oven; when they are quite done scoop out the insides and mash them up with a little bit of butter and a small quantity of cream, some pepper and salt; mix thoroughly. Whip four whites of 132 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. eggs to a froth, and mix with the potatoes; then fill the skins, having cut them low enough to be of a good shape, and put them into the oven for eight minutes; after which, serve them up as quick as possible. Large even potatoes should be chosen. 350. POTATO CHIPS. Cut raw potatoes into neat round slices rather more than an inch thick, and then into thin spiral shavings, going round and round in the way you peel an apple; throw these carefully into hot lard or oil; fry them very crisp of a light brown, and serve as hot as possible. A little salt should be sprinkled over them. 351. POTATO SALAD (GERMAN). Cut cold boiled rather waxy potatoes into moderately thick slices, put them in a bowl, and add to every pound a table-spoonful of vinegar, two of oil, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a one of pepper, and a little minced parsley. Slices of beet-root and Portugal onions are a great improvement to the salad. 352. To STEW PEAS. The peas should be young. Put them, with a bit of butter, a sprig of mint, and one of parsley, tied together, and a lump of sugar, into a stew-pan, and cover them up close. Stew them till they are soft; take out the mint and parsley; add a little stock and a pinch of flour; mix well together, and stew till they come to a boil. VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 133 353. PEAS 1 LA CREME. Take two quarts of very young green peas, toss them up with a bit of butter, and let them stew over a gentle fire; add a little bunch of parsley and chives. When they are nearly ready, season them with a little salt and pepper; remove the parsley and chives, and mix about a wine-glassful of cream, sweetened with a little sugar, with them. 354. PEAS A LA FRANQAISE. Wash the peas, which may be rather old ones; put them into a stew-pan with a piece of fresh butter the size of a walnut, a faggot of parsley and green onions, two cloves, a small slice of raw ham, a large white cos lettuce cut into slices, and a little salt. Put all on the fire to stew in its own liquor; then put in a little boiling water, and allow it to stand for a quarter of an hour; add a lump of sugar and some small bits of butter rolled in flour; mbc well; let them have one more boil to thicken, and serve. 355. PEASE PUDDING. One pint of peas and one potato; boil till they are quite soft; then rub them through a sieve; tie them tight in a cloth, and boil ten minutes. Some salt should be added before the pudding is tied up. 356. LES HARICOTS 1 LA BRETONNE. Boil half a pint of haricot beans till they are quite tender; slice four large onions very thin, and fry them in a little butter till quite brown; then dry them in a cloth. Put the haricots and onions together in a stew- 134 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. pan, and add a small ladleful of reduced cullis, a little good broth, a small bit of glaze, pepper and salt, and a little finely-minced parsley; make very hot, and serve. 357. WHITE BEANS 1 LA MAFTRE D'HfiTEL. White beans when new and fresh must be put into boiling water, but if they are old and dry they should be soaked for an hour in cold water before you boil them. Put them on to boil in cold water, and if more is required before they are done, replenish also with cold; boil them very tender, and put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little finely-minced parsley, some pepper and salt, and then the beans, previously well drained; keep shaking the stew-pan, but do not touch the beans for fear of breaking them; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and serve very hot. 358. HARICOTS BLANCS AU Jus. Steep them a night hi cold water; stew them slowly for two hours in broth, and serve them with a clear gravy; about half a pound is enough for a dish. Be sure they are stewed till quite tender. 359. HARICOTS STEWED FOR KOAST MUTTON. Soak a pint of white beans in water for a few hours; let them boil gently till quite tender, but not broken, strain the water off, and add to the beans two ounces of butter, two minced shallots, pepper and salt, and a pint of either bechamel or cullis, according as you wish them white or brown; let all stew a few minutes, and serve with roast leg of mutton. VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 135 360. FRENCH BEANS 1 LA POULETTE. Choose the beans small and tender; wash them and take out the fibre, and throw them into fresh water. If any are larger, cut them to the general size of the rest. Put them in a stew-pan with plenty of water, and a handful of salt, and set them over a strong fire. When they are done enough, throw them into cold water; then dram, and put them in a stew-pan with a bit of butter, and an onion or two cut in little dice, and previously fried white in butter. Sprinkle in a little flour; let them stew a few minutes, but do npt allow them to brown; add a spoonful of soup, some minced parsley and scallions, or green onions, salt and pepper. Let them come to a boil, stirring them well, and thicken the sauce with the yolks of two eggs, beaten in a little cream. Just before serving add the juice of a lemon. 361. FRENCH BEANS STEWED. Cut off the stalks and remove the fibres, shred them fine, and wash them in salt and water; put them on to boil in a good deal of water, with plenty of salt in it, which preserves their greenness. When they are about half done, drain them, and put them into a stew-pan with three spoonfuls of good broth, some cream, a piece of butter rolled in flour, salt, and pepper; stew gently till quite tender, and serve hot. 362. BROAD BEANS AU Jus. Take a sufficient quantity of young beans ready shelled, and put them on to boil with a great deal of salt and VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 137 366. MASHED TURNIPS, CARROTS, OR PARSNIPS. Peel some turnips; wash and boil them in salt and water. When done enough, press all the water out and pound them well in a mortar; then put them into a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little salt, half a pint of cream, and a teaspoonful of flour; mix thoroughly; make it very hot, and serve. Proceed exactly the same for carrots and parsnips. Never rub through a sieve, for then it becomes a puree not a mash. 367. TURNIPS GLAC£ AU SUCRE. Trim about two dozen turnips in the shape of small pears; if quite young, which is best, leave them their own shape; put them into a stew-pan with a small piece of butter, two ounces of pounded sugar, a very little salt, and half a pint of good broth; set them on to simmer very gently over a slow fire for about forty minutes. When they are nearly done, place the stew-pan over a brisk fire to reduce the sauce to a glaze, rolling the turnips about in it at the same time, but with great care to avoid breaking them; dish, and pour the glazed sauce over them. 368. CARROTS A L'ALLEMANDE. Trim four or five dozen spring carrots; wash them and parboil them in water with a little salt for ten minutes; then put them into a stew-pan with two ounces of butter, the same of pounded sugar, and a pint of good broth; boil the carrots in this, very gently, for half an hour; then set them on to boil briskly, till the sauce is reduced 138 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. to a glaze; dish them; pour allemande sauce round, and the glaze over them. 369. EACINES A LA CREME. Take some good carrots, scrape and wash them; put them on to boil for half an hour, then cut them in long slices, and put them in a stew-pan with a piece of fresh butter, a bunch of parsley and green onions, sweet basil, a clove of garlic, and two shallots. Pass them over the fire, add a pinch of flour, and a little good broth; let them simmer; reduce the sauce, take out the bunch of herbs, etc., put in three yolks of eggs, beat up with a little cream; thicken the sauce, but do not let it boil again. Just before serving add a little vinegar. 370. EACINES EN MENU DROTTS. Cut some onions into slices, brown them in butter with a pinch of flour. When they are almost done enough, moisten with broth, and stew till quite tender. Have some carrots, parsnips, celery, and turnips ready boiled and cut in slices, and add them to the onions • season with salt, whole pepper, and a few drops of vinegar. Make all very hot, and just before serving mix a little mustard into the sauce. 371. PUREE DE NAVETS. Take ten or twelve good-sized turnips, cut them in small pieces, scald them in boiling water, and drain them; put them in a stew-pan with a bit of butter, and turn them often till they acquire a colour; then put in a pinch of flour,a little salt and pepper,two minced shallots; moisten VEGETABLES, SALAD'S, ETC. 139 with broth, and stew over a gentle fire till the turnips fall into a sort of thick cream; then rub them through a sieve, and they are ready to serve. Under mutton cut- lets, etc. 372. CHARTREUSE OF VEGETABLES. Blanch three dozen pieces of carrots; three dozen pieces of turnip, cut with a cutter; boil two dozen button onions, all of a size; boil and chop a good quantity of spinage, one cauliflower, and a dozen asparagus heads; line a mould with slices of fat bacon; cut them; arrange the roots, etc.,round the bottom and sides into any pattern you fancy; then press the spinach all over them, and fill up with all sorts of chopped vegetables, which should be stewed in broth, thickened with a little brown roux, and seasoned with salt and pepper; boil it in a bain marie, that is, set the mould in a pan of hot water, taking care there is not enough water to boil into the mould; boil for one hour; or it may be baked for the same tune; serve with a brown sauce. This chartreuse, instead of being filled with vegetables may be served as an entree, putting forcemeat next the spinach, and filling up with a. ragout of sweetbread, etc. 373. MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES. Boil two dozen asparagus tops, twelve button onions, half a cauliflower, two turnips, and two carrots, cut with a cutter twelve new potatoes and twenty French beans; put them all together into a stew-pan with a pint of be'chamel. a little salt and pepper; make very hot, and serve. VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 139 with broth, and stew over a gentle fire till the turnips fall into a sort of thick cream ; then rub them through a sieve, and they are ready to serve. Under mutton cut- lets, etc. 372. CHARTREUSE OF VEGETABLES. Blanch three dozen pieces of carrots ; three dozen pieces of turnip, cut with a cutter; boil two dozen button onions, all of a size ; boil and chop a good quantity of spinage, one cauliflower, and a dozen asparagus heads; line a mould with slices of fat bacon; cut them; arrange the roots, etc., round the bottom and sides into any pattern you fancy; then press the spinach all over them, and fill up with all sorts of chopped vegetables, which should be stewed in broth, thickened with a little brown roux, and seasoned with salt and pepper; boil it in a bain marie, that is, set the mould in a pan of hot water, taking care there is not enough water to boil into the mould ; boil for one hour; or it may be baked for the same time ; serve with a brown sauce. This chartreuse, instead of being filled with vegetables may be served as an entrée, putting forcemeat next the spinach, and filling up with a ragout of sweetbread, etc. 373. MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES. Boil two dozen asparagus tops, twelve button onions, half a cauliflower, two turnips, and two carrots, cut with a cutter twelve new potatoes and twenty French beans; put them all together into a stew-pan with a pint of béchamel, a little salt and pepper ; make very hot, and Serve. 140 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 374. A DUTCH MACEDOINE. Brown four or five onions sliced and chopped in some butter; then add previously boiled vegetables of any kind you can get, also chopped; stew all together in the butter, stirring continually; when nearly done, add some sliced tomatoes and two or three minced chilis, also a little salt, and either two tablespoonfuls of vinegar or a handful of sorrel. 375. CHOU EN SURPRISE. Take a whole cabbage; put it on to boil in boiling water for a quarter of an hour; put it into cold water; then press it dry with your hands, but without breaking the leaves; draw the leaves backwards; take out the stalk and centre; and in its place put sausage meat and boiled chestnuts; replace the leaves so as to give the appearance of a whole cabbage; tie it up with pack- thread and put it on to stew in broth, with a little salt, whole pepper, a carrot, an onion, and a bunch of sweet herbs; when done sufficiently, drain, and serve with either a cullis or a bechamel sauce. 376. CHOU A LA BOURGEOISE. Boil a whole cabbage, well cleaned, for a quarter of an hour; lay it in cold water; when cold, take it out, and squeeze it dry; open the leaves carefully, and between each put a little veal forcemeat; tie all together with packthread, and stew it in as much broth as will cover the cabbage, with salt, pepper, sweet herbs, a bay leaf, an onion, carrot, and parsnip, and two or three cloves; VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 141 when stewed enough, press it gently with a clean cloth, remove the packthread, cut it in half, and serve with a sauce espagnole poured hot over it. 377. CoICANNON. Chop an equal quantity of boiled cabbage and potatoes, add two ounces of butter, pepper, and salt, and fry them together; some onions or carrots may also be added, if liked. Cabbages should always be boiled in two waters, and the water skimmed, and take about an hour to cook. 378. To STEW RED CABBAGE. Split a red cabbage, cut it across in thin slices, throw it into salt and water, then put it into a clean saucepan, with some broth and a piece of butter rolled in flour: add pepper and salt, a glass of vinegar, and a little bit of bacon. Let it stew till tender, take out the bacon, and serve. It is good with sausages, stewed partridges, etc. 379. A DUTCH RECEIPT FOR RED CABBAGE. Cut it in shreds, and boil in water till tender; then drain as dry as possible, put it into a stew-pan, with some pure olive-oil, a piece of fresh butter, a small glass of vinegar and water, an onion cut small, some pepper and salt. Let it simmer till all the liquor is wasted. It is eaten in Holland either hot or cold, and considered very wholesome. 380. BRUSSELS SPROUTS AU JUS. Boil them a few minutes in water, and then stew them till tender in some good gravy, with a little salt and 140 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 374. A DUTCH MACEDOINE. Brown four or five onions sliced and chopped in some butter ; then add previously boiled vegetables of any kind you can get, also chopped; stew all together in the butter, stirring continually; when nearly done, add some sliced tomatoes and two or three minced chilis, also a little salt, and either two tablespoonfuls of vinegar or a handful of sorrel. 375. CHOU EN SURPRISE. Take a whole cabbage ; put it on to boil in boiling water for a quarter of an hour; put it into cold water; then press it dry with your hands, but without breaking the leaves; draw the leaves backwards; take out the stalk and centre ; and in its place put sausage meat and boiled chestnuts; replace the leaves so as to give the appearance of a whole cabbage ; tie it up with pack- thread and put it on to stew in broth, with a little salt, whole pepper, a carrot, an onion, and a bunch of sweet herbs ; when done sufficiently, drain, and serve with either a cullis or a béchamel sauce. 376. CHOU A LA BOURGEOISE. Boil a whole cabbage, well cleaned, for a quarter of an hour; lay it in cold water; when cold, take it out, and squeeze it dry; open the leaves carefully, and between each put a little veal forcemeat; tie all together with packthread, and stew it in as much broth as will cover the cabbage, with salt, pepper, sweet herbs, a bay leaf, an onion, carrot, and parsnip, and two or three cloves; WEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 141 when stewed enough, press it gently with a clean cloth, remove the packthread, cut it in half, and serve with a sauce espagnole poured hot over it. 377. COLCANNON. Chop an equal quantity of boiled cabbage and potatoes, add two ounces of butter, pepper, and salt, and fry them together ; some onions or carrots may also be added, if liked. Cabbages should always be boiled in two waters, and the water skimmed, and take about an hour to cook. 378. To STEW RED CABBAGE. Split a red cabbage, cut it across in thin slices, throw it into salt and water, then put it into a clean saucepan, with some broth and a piece of butter rolled in flour: add pepper and salt, a glass of vinegar, and a little bit of bacon. Let it stew till tender, take out the bacon, and serve. It is good with sausages, stewed partridges, etc. 379. A DUTCH RECEIPT FOR RED CABBAGE. Cut it in shreds, and boil in water till tender; then drain as dry as possible, put it into a stew-pan, with some pure olive-oil, a piece of fresh butter, a small glass of vinegar and water, an onion cut small, some pepper and salt. Let it simmer till all the liquor is wasted. It is eaten in Holland either hot or cold, and considered very wholesome. 380. BRUSSELS SPROUTS AU JUS. Boil them a few minutes in water, and then stew them till tender in some good gravy, with a little salt and 138 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. to a glaze; dish them; pour allemande sauce round, and the glaze over them. 369. RACINES A LA CR£ME. Take some good carrots, scrape and wash them ; put them on to boil for half an hour, then cut them in long slices, and put them in a stew-pan with a piece of fresh butter, a bunch of parsley and green onions, sweet basil, a clove of garlic, and two shallots. Pass them over the fire, add a pinch of flour, and a little good broth ; let them simmer ; reduce the sauce, take out the bunch of herbs, etc., put in three yolks of eggs, beat up with a little cream ; thicken the sauce, but do not let it boil again. Just before serving add a little vinegar. 370. RACINES EN MENU DROITS. Cut some onions into slices, brown them in butter with a pinch of flour. When they are almost done enough, moisten with broth, and stew till quite tender. Have some carrots, parsnips, celery, and turnips ready boiled and cut in slices, and add them to the Onions; season with salt, whole pepper, and a few drops of vinegar. Make all very hot, and just before serving mix a little mustard into the sauce. 371. PUREE DE NAVETS. Take ten or twelve good-sized turnips, cut them in small pieces, scald them in boiling water, and drain them; put them in a stew-pan with a bit of butter, and turn them often till they acquire a colour; then put in a pinch of flour, a little salt and pepper, two minced shallots; moisten VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 139 with broth, and stew over a gentle fire till the turnips fall into a sort of thick cream ; then rub them through a sieve, and they are ready to serve. Under mutton cut- lets, etc. 372. CHARTREUSE OF VEGETABLES. Blanch three dozen pieces of carrots; three dozen pieces of turnip, cut with a cutter; boil two dozen button onions, all of a size ; boil and chop a good quantity of spinage, one cauliflower, and a dozen asparagus heads; line a mould with slices of fat bacon; cut them; arrange the roots, etc., round the bottom and sides into any pattern you fancy; then press the spinach all over them, and fill up with all sorts of chopped vegetables, which should be stewed in broth, thickened with a little brown roux, and seasoned with salt and pepper; boil it in a bain marie, that is, set the mould in a pan of hot water, taking care there is not enough water to boil into the mould ; boil for one hour; or it may be baked for the same time; serve with a brown sauce. This chartreuse, instead of being filled with vegetables may be served as an entrée, putting forcemeat next the spinach, and filling up with a ragout of sweetbread, etc. 373. MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES. Boil two dozen asparagus tops, twelve button onions, half a cauliflower, two turnips, and two carrots, cut with a cutter twelve new potatoes and twenty French beans; put them all together into a stew-pan with a pint of béchamel, a little salt and pepper ; make very hot, and Serve. 140 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 374. A DUTCH MACEDOINE. Brown four or five onions sliced and chopped in some butter; then add previously boiled vegetables of any kind you can get, also chopped; stew all together in the butter, stirring continually; when nearly done, add some sliced tomatoes and two or three minced chilis, also a little salt, and either two tablespoonfuls of vinegar or a handful of sorrel. 375. CHOU EN SURPRISE. Take a whole cabbage ; put it on to boil in boiling water for a quarter of an hour; put it into cold water ; then press it dry with your hands, but without breaking the leaves; draw the leaves backwards; take out the stalk and centre ; and in its place put sausage meat and boiled chestnuts; replace the leaves so as to give the appearance of a whole cabbage ; tie it up with pack- thread and put it on to stew in broth, with a little salt, whole pepper, a carrot, an onion, and a bunch of Sweet herbs ; when done sufficiently, drain, and serve with either a cullis or a béchamel sauce. 376. CHOU A LA BOURGEOISE. Boil a whole cabbage, well cleaned, for a quarter of an hour ; lay it in cold water; when cold, take it out, and squeeze it dry; open the leaves carefully, and between each put a little veal forcemeat; tie all together with packthread, and stew it in as much broth as will cover the cabbage, with salt, pepper, sweet herbs, a bay leaf, an onion, carrot, and parsnip, and two or three cloves ; VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 141 when stewed enough, press it gently with a clean cloth, remove the packthread, cut it in half, and serve with a sauce espagnole poured hot over it. 377. COLCANNON. Chop an equal quantity of boiled cabbage and potatoes, add two ounces of butter, pepper, and salt, and fry them together; some onions or carrots may also be added, if liked. Cabbages should always be boiled in two waters, and the water skimmed, and take about an hour to cook. 378. To STEW BED CABBAGE. Split a red cabbage, cut it across in thin slices, throw it into salt and water, then put it into a clean saucepan, with some broth and a piece of butter rolled in flour: add pepper and salt, a glass of vinegar, and a little bit of bacon. Let it stew till tender, take out the bacon, and serve. It is good with sausages, stewed partridges, etc. 379. A DUTCH EECEIPT FOR BED CABBAGE. Cut it in shreds, and boil in water till tender; then drain as dry as possible, put it into a stew-pan, with some pure olive-oil, a piece of fresh butter, a small glass of vinegar and water, an onion cut small, some pepper and salt. Let it simmer till all the liquor is wasted. It is eaten in Holland either hot or cold, and considered very wholesome. 380. BRUSSELS SPROUTS AU Jus. Boil them a few minutes in water, and then stew them till tender in some good gravy, with a little salt and 142 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. pepper. They may also be served with a white sauce or passe1 au beurre. Boil them first, and then toss them in a frying-pan, with a little butter. Do not let them brown. 381. To BOIL ONIONS. Peel and soak them in cold water, put them into boiling milk and water, and boil till tender. Eoast onions should be done with all the skins on, and parboiled before putting them in front of the fire or in a Dutch oven to brown. Portugal onions should be parboiled, and then stewed in good broth till it comes to a demi- glaze. 382. STEWED PORTUGAL ONIONS. Peel four large onions, and put them into a quart of strong broth, with three-quarters of a pound of fine white sugar and a pinch of salt. Put this into a stew- pan, cover it close, and set it in the oven. They will require from six to eight hours' cooking. The broth should be reduced to quite a glaze. 383. STEWED CAULIFLOWER. Pick and clean them well, boil them but only partially; set them to drain, then put them into a saucepan with some veal stock, and let them simmer till tender. Now set the saucepan on the stove over a brisk fire; thicken the sauce with a piece of butter the size of a walnut rolled in flour, add a squeeze of a lemon, and serve. VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 143 384. CHOUFLEURS AU GRATIN. Prepare and boil a cauliflower, drain it, and put it on the dish in which it is to be served; prepare a sauce with grated parmesan cheese, a piece of butter, some pepper and salt, a little lemon-juice, and the yolks of two eggs beaten in cream; beat and mix all well together, pour it over the cauliflower, grate parmesan cheese over the top, put the dish in the oven, and bake for twenty minutes. Brown the top with a salamander. 385. CHOUFLEURS 1 LA BECHAMEL. Eemove all the green leaves and divide it in good-sized pieces, parboil, and then stew it till tender in a little veal broth, with salt, pepper, and a little bit of mace. When done, take it out, pour a rich bechamel (see Sauces) over it, and serve. 386. To STEW CABBAGE LETTUCE. Wash the cabbage lettuces clean in several waters, put them into a saucepan to boil for half an hour with only as much water as will barely cover them; then take them up with a skimmer and lay them in cold water; squeeze the water from them with your hands, each lettuce separately, and place them in a small saucepan, with a quarter of a pound of butter mixed with a quarter of a spoonful of flour, a blade of mace, a bit of bacon as big as a thumb, stuck with cloves; add as much veal broth as will quite cover them, also a little pepper and salt. Set them to stew over a clear fire. Winter lettuce will require an hour; for summer, half that time will suffice. 144 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. When the broth is boiled down quite thick, and sticking to the lettuce, pour over a little clarified butter, and shake the saucepan till it unites with the broth and lettuce, but do not toss it for fear of breaking them. You may turn it out and serve it thus, or, just before removing it from the fire, add the yolk of an egg beaten up in a little cream. Celery and endive may be done in the same way. 387. To STEW ENDIVE. Choose the whitest endive, pick it and blanch in boiling water, then put it in cold water; take it out and squeeze it well. Lay it on a table, and hash it a little with a knife, place it in a stew-pan with as much veal broth as will cover it, and a small bit of ham. Let it simmer over a slack fire till it gets quite thick; remove the ham. If the sauce, when it is stewed sufficiently, is not thick enough, add a little cullis. 388. To DRESS SORREL. Pick the sorrel carefully and nip off the stalks; set over a stove a saucepan half full of water. When it boils put in the sorrel and scald it; take it out again at once and drain it; squeeze it as hard as you do spinach, then put it into a saucepan with a little veal broth, and simmer till smooth and thick over a gentle fire. When nearly done, add a very little ham sauce. (See Sauces.) 389. STEWED SORREL. Wash any quantity you require of the leaves clean; boil them tender in water and rub through a tammy into a V VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 145 stew-pan; add a slice of fresh butter and a spoonful or two of be'chamel sauce, a little salt and sugar; stew for a few minutes, and serve. 390. STEWED CELERY. Wash and trim off the outer leaves; put it on to boil; when it is tender take it out and squeeze it well; then place it in a stew-pan with some good veal broth, and simmer it over a gentle fire. When reduced enough, thicken the sauce with a bit of butter the size of a wal- nut rolled in flour, add a few drops of vinegar or a squeeze of lemon, and serve. 391. CELERY A LA CREME. Trim and wash; if the heads are large, halve them and cut them into lengths to suit your dish; put them into a stew-pan with a cup of weak broth or veal gravy; stew till tender; add two tablespoonfuls of cream, a piece of butter rolled in flour, salt, pepper, and a little white sugar. Simmer together a few minutes, and serve. 392. ASPARAGUS A LA CREME. Cut the green part of the asparagus in pieces an inch long, and blanch them in boiling water; then toss them in a stew-pan in a little butter or lard over the fire, but take care not to make them greasy. Add to them some cream, a bunch of herbs, a little pepper and salt; let them stew till tender. Before serving beat up two yolks of eggs in a little cream with a teaspoonful of sugar; add it to the sauce ; mix well, make it hot, and serve. L 146 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 393. ASPARAGUS AU Jus. Cut them in pieces, as above; cut some parsley and chervil small and toss them together in a little melted lard; put in also a whole leek, which you afterwards take out; do not let them brown. Season with salt and pepper, and then put them in a stew-pan with a little good broth, and set them to simmer over a gentle fire. When done enough, skim off all the fat, add some beef gravy, squeeze the juice of a lemon over them, and serve. 394. To BOIL ASPARAGUS. Scrape the stalks clean, wash them in cold water, tie them up in bundles of about twenty-five each, cut off the stalks even at the bottom about four inches from the green part; put them into a stew-pan of boiling water with a handful of salt in it; let it boil rather quick, and skim it. From twenty to thirty minutes should be enough to do them; but observe as soon as they are tender to take them out of the water, or they will be spoilt. While they are boiling toast a round of a quartern loaf, about half an inch thick, brown on both sides; lay it in the middle of the dish and the asparagus over it; serve melted butter in which you have beaten up the yolk of an egg with them, but separately in a boat. In France asparagus is much liked cold as salad, and eaten with the following sauce :—Vinegar, one tablespoonful; oil, two; quarter of a teaspoonful of salt; half that of pepper. Mix well together, and add a little minced parsley. VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 1 47 395. To DRESS SPINACH. Boil the spinach tender without putting any water to it in a bain marie—i.e., stand the saucepan in boiling water. When it is done squeeze it between two plates, pound it in a mortar, roll it into balls, and throw them into cold water. When you want to use it, put it into a stew-pan with some cream and a very little salt and pepper, or a small piece of butter and a few spoonfuls of soup. Let it stew quickly that it may not turn yellow, and stir it well. 396. E6TIES AUX EPINARDS. Cut some slices of bread about two fingers in length and the thickness of a crown-piece. Take some spinach that has already been served stewed; mix two yolks of eggs with it, lay it on the toast, pass a knife dipped in egg over the top bread-crumb, and fry them. French beans are good dressed in the same way. The grease that runs from a goose when roasting should always be kept, as it is particularly good to dress spinach with, 397. STEWED WATER-CRESSES (CORNISH RECEIPT). Lay the cresses in strong salt and water; pick and wash them well, and stew in water for about ten minutes; drain and chop them; return them to the stew-pan, with a bit of butter, some pepper and salt; stew till tender. Just before serving put in a little vinegar; serve with fried sippets. It is good with boiled chickens. 398. CUCUMBERS AND ONIONS. Peel the cucumbers and cut them into quarters; take 148 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. out all the seeds, and cut each quarter into three pieces, and pare them round. Peel as many small onions as you have pieces of cucumber; put them all to marinade for two hours in vinegar and water (half of each), some pepper and salt; then pour off the liquor, add as much stock as will barely cover them, boil them down to a glaze, add as much cullis as you think they require, boil a few minutes, add the juice of a lemon and a little sugar. This is good either alone or with cutlets. 399. STEWED CUCUMBERS. Pare some cucumbers, cut them down the middle in two, remove the seeds, and trim them into oval-shaped pieces; put them to marinade for two hours in vinegar, with two or three sliced onions, some pepper and salt; then squeeze them dry in a linen cloth, put them in a saucepan, and toss them in a little melted bacon or lard. When they begin to grow brown add some good gravy, and set them to simmer over a stove. When nearly ready to serve, skim the fat from them, and thicken with cullis. 400. VEGETABLE MARROW. When full grown cut them in four lengthways, remove the seeds, stew them in vinegar and water and fat bacon or butter. When tender, pour over them a bechamel sauce. If small and young, boil them whole. Serve them on toast with a bechamel round them, and a squeeze of lemon-juice over. 401. ARTICHOKES A LA CREME. Boil them in water; when they are done enough, drain VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 151 and serve, garnished with fried parsley. Jerusalem artichokes and artichoke-bottoms are excellent dressed in the same way. 406. To DRESS BEETROOT AND SMALL ONIONS WITH A SAUCE PIQUANTE. Take two or three beetroots, wash them clean, and be careful not to break any of the fibres, otherwise they will lose their colour in boiling. Boil them till tender, with two or three dozen button onions. When they are done take off the skins and the outside fibres of the beetroot and slice it down; stew it in the following sauce for ten minutes :—Take an ordinary-sized onion, mince it small, and fry it brown in a little butter; add a little flour and brown that also; then put in a ladleful of soup, the juice of a lemon, and some salt and pepper. When it is done dish the onions in the centre, the beetroot and sauce round, and serve very hot. 407. FRICASSEE OF BEETROOT. Boil some beetroots tender, slice them and put them into a saucepan with some parsley, chives, and sweet herbs minced fine; a little bit of shallot, a pinch of flour, salt, pepper, and a spoonful of vinegar or more. Let it boil a quarter of an hour, and it will be ready to serve.' 408. STEWED BEETROOT. Bake beetroots in an oven till they are tender; take them out, and when they are cold remove the outside, cut them in slices, and pour a little vinegar over them; then put them into a stew-pan with as much gravy as will cover 152 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. them; simmer for half an hour. Thicken the gravy be- fore serving with some cream in which you have mixed a slice or two of beetroot beaten up in the mortar to give it a fine colour. 409. TOMATOES. Scrape out the inside of eight tomatoes, drain, rub them through a sieve; add one ounce of bread-crumbs, the same of butter, salt, and a very little cayenne. Put this back into the skins and bake for ten minutes. Serve with a cullis sauce round them. 410. TOMATES FARCIES. Take the pips out, and fill the tomatoes with sausage- meat mixed with a very little bit of garlic, some parsley, tarragon, and small onions minced fine; put them into a "tourte" or silver souffl^pan, cover them with bread- crumbs, and bake. Just as you send them up, which you must do in the dish they were cooked in, squeeze over some lemon-juice. 411. TOMATOES AU Jus. Stew the tomatoes whole in some good gravy, drain them on a sieve, and pour over them a little gravy reduced to a half glaze, and a teaspoonful of vinegar in it quite hot. 412. TOMATOES STEWED. Stew them in a little fresh butter till quite tender, and squeeze a little lemon-juice over them before serving. Tomatoes are also excellent roasted in the Dutch oven, with only a few little bits of butter to prevent their VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 153 sticking to the pan. About twenty minutes will cook them. 413. LAYER Is usually bought prepared in pots, and then merely re- quires heating over a lamp and a squeeze of lemon added to it. Serve over a lamp that it may be very hot. If you pick it fresh by the seaside it requires most careful washing in many waters to get rid of the sand. Salt water is best, if you can get it quite clear, to wash it in. It should then be slowly stewed for many hours in weak veal broth till it is quite a pulp; add more broth if it gets too dry. 414. GRILLED MUSHROOMS. Choose large fresh mushrooms; skin them and remove the stalks; lay them on a dish with a little fine oil, pepper, and salt over them; let them stand an hour, and then broil on a gridiron over a clear sharp fire. Serve them either dry on a toast or with the following sauce:—Mince the stalks or any spare pieces of the mushrooms fine, put them into a stew-pan with a little broth, some chopped parsley and young onions, butter, and the juice of a lemon, or instead of the two latter the yolk of an egg beat up in some cream. Beat all thoroughly together and pour round the mushrooms. 415. MUSHROOM TOASTS. Put some moderate-sized mushrooms skinned and cleaned into a stew-pan with the juice of a lemon, a piece of butter, some pepper and salt, three cloves, some green onions, parsley, and sweet savory, tied up together in a bit of muslin; set them over a moderate fire, and let 154 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. them stew gently till nearly dry; give them a dust of flour, add some veal broth, and let them stew a quarter of an hour. Take out the herbs, etc., and thicken the sauce with two eggs beaten up in a little cream. Cut the top off a French roll, remove the crumb, butter and toast it, and then pour in the mushrooms and sauce, and serve. 416. EAGOUT OF MUSHROOMS. Skin and cut them in slices, toss them in melted lard or butter, seasoned with salt, pepper, and minced parsley; moisten with broth and a spoonful of cullis. Just before serving, add a squeeze'of lemon. • 417. MUSHROOMS FARCIE. Take some large mushrooms, skin and trim them, stew them in a little broth, but not too much; take them out and put in the stalks and trimmings, stew them till quite tender, drain them, mince them very fine, mix them with a little butter, some pepper, salt, and a very little minced parsley; lay this on the inside of the mush- rooms; strew fine bread-crumbs over them, and bake in a Dutch oven. 418. MUSHROOMS 1 LA CREME. Cut the mushrooms in pieces and toss them over a brisk fire in butter seasoned with salt, a very little nutmeg, and a bunch of herbs. When they are done enough and the butter nearly all wasted away, take out the herbs; add the yolk of an egg beaten up in some good cream, make very hot and serve. VEGETABLES, SALALS, ETC. 155 419. To DEESS TRUFFLES. Having peeled the truffles, cut them in slices, wash and drain them well; put them into a small saucepan with some essence of ham, or ham-sauce (see Sauces), and set them on to stew gently over a slack fire. When they are quite tender, bind them with a good cullis, and serve. 420. TRUFFLES MAIGRE. After having peeled, cut and wash the truffles as in the last recipe; put them into a stew-pan with some fish stock; season with salt, pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs, and stew them over a gentle fire. When they are done enough, thicken the sauce with roux, take out the herbs, and serve. 421. TRUFFLES AU Vra DE CHAMPAGNE. Take ten or twelve fine truffles, put them in warm water, brush them clean and change the water; brush them again, and rinse them thoroughly in fresh water that they may be quite clean; drain them, cover the bottom of a stew-pan with slices of bacon, and put in the truffles; season with a little salt, a bunch of parsley and scallions; add a little good stock, and half a bottle of champagne. Make them boil. Cover the top of the stew-pan first with paper, and then with the lid. Put fire over as well as under, and leave them to cook an hour. Ascertain if they are done enough by pressing them. If they are, drain them on a cloth, and serve in a folded napkin; if not, let them stew longer. A slice or two of ham may also be added. 156 VEGETABLES^ SALADS, ETC. 422. MORELS IN CREAM. Having taken off the stalks of the morels, cut them in two, and wash them in several waters that they may not be gritty; put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter; season with salt, pepper, a bunch of herbs, and a little shred parsley; toss them over the stove, then moisten with some good broth, and set them to simmer over a slack fire. Make a thickening with the yolks of two eggs beaten up with cream; take out the herbs, add this to the sauce, and serve. Mushrooms may be dressed in the same manner, and morels are good done in the different ways mushrooms are. 423. GERMAN SALAD. The fillets of four salt herrings chopped very small, one beetroot and four boiled potatoes, two hard-boiled eggs, two russet apples, two stalks of celery, all minced fine. (For sauce, see Salad Sauces.) 424. ANCHOVY SALAD. Wash them in fresh water till the liquor be clear, then dry them on a linen cloth. Cut off the tails and fins, and bone them; split them and lay them on a dish. Mince young onions, parsley, beetroot, and lettuce; arrange it round them. Beat up oil and lemon-juice together and pour it over. 425. LOBSTER SALAD. Hub two hard-boiled eggs through a sieve, add to them -. VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 157 two tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, the same of common vinegar, and one of chili, two teaspoonfuls of ketchup, and the same of anchovy sauce, some cayenne pepper, mustard, and salt; mince some parsley, tarragon, and a little shallot very fine, and mix with the sauce; then add six tablespoonfuls of the best olive-oil or thick cream. Mix all these well together with the inside of the head and coral of the lobster. Cut the meat of the tail into pieces, and the claws in two; lay them in a bowl or deep dish, pour the sauce over, and then heap the salad on the top—lettuce, endive, cucumber, small salad, etc. Salmon is equally good done in this way. The cold salmon should be cut into fillets, and may either be served in the same way, or the fillets ranged round the sauce in the centre, and sur- rounded with the salad and slices of cucumber. 426. SALAD or LOBSTER OR CRAB. Chop one large onion, two sour apples, and the meat of one crab or lobster together; pour over it three spoon- fuls of oil, two of vinegar. Season with cayenne pepper and salt to taste. 427. SALADE DE POULETS AUX CONCOMBRES. Choose three good cucumbers, cut off both ends, peel and cut them in quarters, take out the seeds, and cut them in oval pieces of an equal size; blanch them in water with a little salt and vinegar; stew them in a "blanc" (see No. 402). When sufficiently done drain them and lay them aside to cool. Take the white meat of a previously-cooked chicken, cut it in scollops the 156 WEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 422. MoRELS IN CREAM. Having taken off the stalks of the morels, cut them in two, and wash them in several waters that they may not be gritty; put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter; season with salt, pepper, a bunch of herbs, and a little shred parsley ; toss them over the stove, then moisten with some good broth, and set them to simmer over a slack fire. Make a thickening with the yolks of two eggs beaten up with cream; take out the herbs, add this to the sauce, and serve. Mushrooms may be dressed in the same manner, and morels are good done in the different ways mushrooms are. 423. GERMAN SALAD. The fillets of four salt herrings chopped very small, one beetroot and four boiled potatoes, two hard-boiled eggs, two russet apples, two stalks of celery, all minced fine. (For sauce, see Salad Sauces.) 424. ANCHOVY SALAD. Wash them in fresh water till the liquor be clear, then dry them on a linen cloth. Cut off the tails and fins, and bone them ; split them and lay them on a dish. Mince young onions, parsley, beetroot, and lettuce ; arrange it round them. Beat up oil and lemon-juice together and pour it over. 425. LOBSTER SALAD. Tub two hard-boiled eggs through a sieve, add to them VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 157 two tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, the same of common vinegar, and one of chili, two teaspoonfuls of ketchup, and the same of anchovy sauce, some cayenne pepper, mustard, and salt ; mince some parsley, tarragon, and a little shallot very fine, and mix with the sauce; then add six tablespoonfuls of the best olive-oil or thick cream. Mix all these well together with the inside of the head and coral of the lobster. Cut the meat of the tail into pieces, and the claws in two ; lay them in a bowl or deep dish, pour the sauce over, and then heap the salad on the top—lettuce, endive, cucumber, small salad, etc. Salmon is equally good done in this way. The cold salmon should be cut into fillets, and may either be served in the same way, or the fillets ranged round the sauce in the centre, and sur- rounded with the salad and slices of cucumber. 426. SALAD OF LOBSTER OR CRAB, Chop one large onion, two sour apples, and the meat of one crab or lobster together; pour over it three spoon- fuls of oil, two of vinegar. Season with cayenne pepper and salt to taste. 427. SALADE DE PoulBTs AUx CoNCOMBRES. Choose three good cucumbers, cut off both ends, peel and cut them in quarters, take out the seeds, and cut them in oval pieces of an equal size ; blanch them in water with a little salt and vinegar; stew them in a “blanc" (see No. 402). When sufficiently done drain them and lay them aside to cool. Take the white meat of a previously-cooked chicken, cut it in scollops the EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 432. GERMAN OMELETTE. Fry a quarter of a pound of bacon cut in dice. When done beat up eight eggs with some pepper and salt; add them to the bacon, and fry all together. Stir till it gets thick, and turn it into the dish you mean to serve it in very hot. 433. A VERY LIGHT OMELETTE. A quarter of a pint of cream and the yolks of six eggs beaten well together with a little cayenne and a little salt; then add a small piece of shallot and a little parsley minced very fine; mix well together; whip the whites of five eggs, and stir into the omelette till very light; melt a little butter in the frying-pan, and pour in the eggs; do them over a quick fire for five minutes. Serve it very hot, with or without a good gravy over it. This is an excellent recipe. 434. OMELETTE. Two yolks of eggs and one white, a tablespoonful of cream, a little minced parsley and shallot, and a very little nutmeg. Whisk all well together, and fry in as little butter as possible. Very good. --- EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 1C1 435. OMELETTE AUX FINES HERBES. Break six very fresh eggs into a basin; add a teaspoon- ful of salt, a quarter one of pepper, two of minced parsley, and half a one of minced onion; beat them well together. Put into a clean dry frying-pan two ounces of butter; set it on the fire, and when the butter is hot pour in the eggs. Keep mixing quickly with a spoon till it is lightly set, then tilt the pan sideways so as to let the omelette slip to the edge, which will make it of an oval shape. Let it set a minute, and turn it over on to a hot dish and serve. If you wish it to be flavoured with parmesan or gruyere cheese leave out the parsley and onions, and put two tablespoonfuls of the cheese grated to the eggs. 436. BUTTERED EGGS. Put in a stew-pan two ounces of butter; break four fresh eggs into it; add a tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms or truffles, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter one of pepper. Set it on the fire and stir continually with a wooden spoon till it is of a good consistency. Have ready some slices of buttered toast on a hot dish; pour the eggs on to them, and serve. 437. EGGS A LA BONNE FEMME. Cut a middle-sized onion in dice; fry them in a stew-pan with a pat of butter a light brown; add a teaspoonful of vinegar when done; then butter a dish lightly, spread the onions over it, break the eggs into it, and put the dish in the oven. When the eggs are done, strew them over with fried bread-crumbs, and serve very hot. M 162 EGGS, CHEESE, ENTEEMETS, ETC. 438. EGGS A- LA PKOVENCALE. Take the yolks of eight and the whites of five eggs; beat them well; add a spoonful of cullis or brown sauce, a little minced green onion and parsley, pepper and salt; stir it over a slow fire till it thickens; squeeze in the juice of a lemon or orange, and serve with fried bread, or put them into small moulds. When done enough, turn them out, and serve with a sauce of cullis seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little lemon-juice. 439. EGG VERMICELLI. Boil eight yolks of eggs hard; add three ounces of butter to them; pound them together, and rub all through a coarse sieve into the dish it is to be served in, on which you have previously laid cold toast buttered. 440. HAM AND EGGS. Cut an ounce of well-cooked ham in small dice; put it into a pan with an ounce of fresh butter and three eggs, a little pepper, and a spoonful of chopped chervil. Stir continually till the eggs are enough done. They should not be very stiff. Serve on toast. 441. EGGS EN CAISSE. Make some small paper boxes. Take a piece of butter and mix it with some stale crumbs of bread, a little minced parsley, salt, and cayenne pepper. Butter the bottoms of the boxes; then out in some of this mixture; EGGS, CHEESE, ENTEEMETS, ETC. 163 break an egg into each box, cover it over with bread- crumbs; see that the boxes are filled; put them on the gridiron for two or three minutes, pass a salamander over the top, and serve. 442. DES (Eras AU SOLEIL. Poach about eight fresh eggs very nicely; take them out and put them into cold water; when they are cool lay them for about a quarter of an hour to marinade in a glass of white wine vinegar, with some sweet herbs; then dry them upon a cloth, dip them in a batter pre- pared with flour mixed with equal quantities of ale and water till it is of the right consistency, about the thick- ness of double cream. Fry them of a nice light brown in hot lard. Serve upon a bed of fried parsley. 443. TlMBALES OF EGGS AU JTJS DE PERDRIX. Take a partridge, split it down the back, notch the breast and legs; put it into a small stew-pan with a bit of ham, an onion, a carrot, and a little parsley. Pour in a spoonful or two of broth, and let it stew gently till it is dry and brown at the bottom. Add a ladleful more broth, and let it boil gently for about a quarter of an hour. Then strain it through a linen sieve, take off the fat, add a little salt and pepper, and when cool pour in six or seven eggs previously well beaten; pass it through a tammy, and pour it into small china cups or timbale moulds. Place them in a pan of hot water; let it boil till you perceive they are set like custard; turn them out, and pour the same gravy over them. 104 EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. , 444. QUERIED EGGS. Slice two onions, fry them brown in a little butter, add a pint of broth and a tablespoonful of curry powder; stew till quite tender. Thicken a cup of cream with some arrowroot or rice-flour; mix it with the broth, etc.; simmer a few minutes, and add six or eight hard-boiled eggs cut into slices; heat them thoroughly in the sauce, but do not let them boil. 445. (Eurs AU BOUILLON. Put into a stew-pan six yolks of fresh eggs and two whites, with six spoonfuls of good stock; mix all well together, and pass it through a sieve. Butter some small moulds; let them drain and cool; pour the eggs into the moulds and set them in a pan of boiling water on the fire. When they have properly taken, turn them out with care on a dish, and serve with a rich gravy round them. 446. LES GEuFS EN FRICASSEE. Put a piece of butter in a stew-pan with some finely- minced parsley and green onions, a teacupful of broth, and a shake of flour; reduce it a little and skim it well. Boil some eggs hard, cut them in slices not too thin, and put them in with a little salt and pepper. Beat up the yolk of an egg in a small cupful of cream; add this to the rest, and the juice of half a lemon. Mix well, make very hot, and serve with sippets of toasted or fried bread. 447. CEurs FARCIES. Boil some fresh es'gs hard; cut them carefully in halves EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 105 lengthways, first removing the shell; take out the yolks and beat them up with a bit of butter, some bread- crumbs soaked in milk and squeezed dry, a little minced parsley, pepper and salt. Add cream enough to moisten the paste, fill the whites to the original shape of the egg, cover the top with bread-crumbs, and fry in butter of a light brown. 448. (Eurs SUR LE PLAT. Break five or more fried eggs carefully into a dish, so that the yolks are at equal distances from each other. Pour a little hot butter on them, either browned or not. Strew them lightly with bread-crumbs, and put them into a moderate oven till the white is well set. 449. CEuFS EN PUREE. Boil some fresh eggs hard; let them get cold; take out the yolks and beat them in a mortar with butter, pepper, salt, and the yolks of three raw eggs; chop the whites small, and stew them a few minutes in a little good gravy without letting them boil; pass the yolks through a colander into the dish they are to be served in. Arrange the whites round, garnish with sippets of bread dipped in egg, place the dish in an oven, and serve as soon as it is browned. 450. FRIED EGGS. Put into a frying-pan some olive-oil or butter; set it over the stove, and when it boils raise the handle of the pan that the liquid may run to one side. Break an egg carefully into the pan, and with a pisrced ladle throw 166 EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. the boiling oil or fat over the egg, which will cause the white to boil up and cover the yolk . As soon as one is cooked, take it out with the strainer, and do another in the same way, till you have enough. Take care to keep them hot. They should be a nice light brown, and may be served with a puree of tomatoes, a sauce piquante, or a good gravy, and seasoned with pepper and salt. 451. (EuFS AU FROMAGE. Place in the dish you will serve them in, and which must be strong enough to resist the fire, a piece of butter, a little oil, and some slices of good rich cheese. When it is melted, break whole eggs into it, put the dish in the oven or before the fire. When the white sets, sprinkle grated cheese and pepper on them. Brown at the top, and serve as hot as possible. 452. (EUFS AUX TRUFFES. Mince fine a slice or two of bacon; put it with a little butter in a saucepan over a slow fire. When it has cooked a few minutes, pour it into the dish the eggs are to be served in ; add a spoonful of gravy and a little white wine. Break into it the quantity of eggs you require, being careful not to break the yolks; add salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg. When they are quite set, strew over the top minced truffles, which have been previously stewed in butter. 453. BOILED CHEESE. Take four ounces of cheese (single Gloucester or Dunlop EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 167 do well), two ounces of fresh butter, and a tablespoonful of cream; cut the cheese into thin slices; put all into a stew-pan, and set it over a slow fire. Stir it till it boils, and is quite smooth. Take off the pan; break an egg into it, stir both yolk and white quickly in; put it in a dish, and brown in a Dutch oven before the fire. 454. FROMAGE Curr. Cut half a pound of Cheshire cheese into thin slices; pound it well in a mortar; add by degrees the well-beaten yolks of two and the white of one egg; also, half a pint of cream. Mix well together, and bake on a dish for ten or fifteen minutes. 455. STEWED CHEESE. Melt three-quarters of an ounce of fresh butter in a tea- cupful of cream ; mix with a quarter of an ounce of good cheese, finely grated; beat it well together, stew till it is quite smooth, stirring all the time. Serve upon well toasted bread, and brown the top with a salamander. 456. CHEESE TOASTS. Grate three ounces of Gloucester cheese; mix it with the yolks of two eggs, four ounces of grated bread, and three ounces of butter; beat the whole well in a mortar, with a dessert-spoonful of mustard, a little salt and cayenne pepper. Toast some bread thin and crisp, cut it into neat pieces, lay the paste as above thick upon them, put them into a Dutch oven, covered with a dish, till hot through; then remove the cover, let the cheese brown a little, and serve as hot as possible. 168 EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 457. FONDU. A quarter of a pound of fine flour well dried, half a pint of cream, a piece of butter the size of a nut; mix them well together in a stew-pan over a slow fire, stirring con- stantly till it is quite thick, and smooth; then add the yolks of five eggs, half a pint of new milk, and two ounces of grated parmesan cheese. Stir all together, but not over the fire. Beat up the whites of the five eggs to a strong froth, and mix it very lightly with the other ingredients. Bake in a souffle'-dish or paper case, in a gentle oven, for half an hour. Take care it is served the moment it comes out of the oven, or it will fall and become heavy. 458. EAMEQUINS. Take a quarter of a pint of milk, one ounce of butter, and boil together, adding two spoonfuls of flour; stir constantly till quite hot. Mix in smoothly four whole eggs, and two ounces of grated parmesan cheese. Fill small paper cases, and bake in a moderate oven a little more than a quarter of an hour. 459. RAMEQTJINS SOUFFLE. Melt one ounce of butter; mix into it a spoonful of flour and a little salt; stir for a few minutes over the fire. Have ready boiled half a pint of milk, and a quarter one of cream. Pour this on the butter and flour by degrees, and work it perfectly smooth. Take the pan off the fire and add half a pound of grated parmesan cheese, a little pepper, a very little powdered sugar, the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of two well beaten. When well EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 169 mixed, add the other six whites, beaten to a froth. It should then be about the consistency of cream. Fill paper cases, but not quite to the top, and bake in a slow oven eighteen minutes. 460. RAMEQUINS 1 LA SEFTON. Make half a pound of puff paste (see Pastry); roll it four times, then sprinkle some grated parmesan cheese all over it; roll it out four times more, repeating the sprinkling of cheese between each rolling; cut the paste with a cutter in any form you please; sprinkle cheese over the top, and bake them a good brown in a moderate oven. Serve very hot on a napkin. 461. FAILLES AU PARMESAN, OR CHEESE STRAWS. Take six ounces of flour, four of butter, two of cream, three of grated parmesan cheese, the slightest grating of nutmeg, two grains of cayenne, a little salt, and white pepper; mix the whole well together, roll it out, and cut it in strips the size and thickness of a straw. They must "be baked in a moderate oven, should be quite crisp, and of a pale colour. Serve very hot in the second course. 462. CHEESE AND ALE. Cut some good Gloucester cheese into thin slices, carefully removing the rind; lay them in a dish over a lamp; spread each piece of cheese with mustard, and pour over as much strong ale as will cover them; stew till the cheese is quite dissolved. Toast and ale should be served with this. The toast should be thick, and well browned, and hot ale, with or without spices, poured over it. 170 EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 463. CANAPES. Take the crumb of a large loaf; cut it in slices three- quarters of an inch thick; cut this into any shape you please, and fry a good colour in oil. Mince separately the yolks and whites of hard-boiled eggs, capers, cucum- bers, some herbs (such as chervil and tarragon), and some small salad, fillet some anchovies, and put all this in a little of the best oil. Season the canape's that are fried with salt, pepper, and vinegar; arrange the salad on them, with the anchovies on the top; dress them neatly in the dish, and garnish with hard-boiled eggs, ham, beetroot, small herbs, capers, anchovies, etc. 464. E6TIES D'ANCHOIS. Toast some slices of bread, cut thin and in neat slices, and then soak in a little good oil. Take some anchovies, a little rasped lemon-peel, onion or shallot, parsley or chervil, tarragon and burnet, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg; mince all together very small, and mix well. Drain the toasts from the oil as much as possible; spread the mixture pretty thick on them; arrange on the dish they are to be served on, and pour over a sauce made with two spoonfuls of oil, one of lemon-juice, some mustard, and a little pepper. 465. E6TIES A LA MlNIME. Cut some slices of bread about two fingers' length and the thickness of a crown-piece; put them into a stew- pan with a little oil over a gentle fire; turn them often till they acquire a good colour. Dress them on your EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETs, ETC. 171 dish, and lay some slices of well-washed anchovy or sardines on them. Add to the oil you fried the bread in some minced shallot, parsley, green onion, minced thyme, sweet basil, a bay-leaf, some whole pepper, and a little vinegar; boil it a moment, pour over the toasts, and serve cold. The bay-leaf, sweet herbs, and pepper to be removed. 466. SALMAGUNDI. Wash and bone two large Dutch or Lochfine herrings; mince the meat fine ; take the breast of a cold roast chicken, skin it and mince it ; also two hard-boiled eggs, an onion, an anchovy, and a little grated ham or tongue. Mix well together ; moisten with salad oil and vinegar, and season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper. Serve on toast. 467. INDIAN SANDWICHES. Cut the breast of a roast fowl or pheasant in very small square pieces, also about four ounces of tongue or lean ham, four anchovies washed and filleted; mix well with the chicken, and put it into a stew-pan with two spoon- fuls of velouté sauce, a dessert-spoonful of curry paste, half a teaspoonful of chutnee, the juice of half a lemon, and a little salt and pepper. Boil for a few minutes on the stove, mixing well. Have ready prepared some thin slices of bread cut with a circular cutter, as many as you require for your dish, fry them in oil of a bright yellow, drain them on a napkin, and place half of them on a baking-sheet covered with clean paper; spread a thick layer of the above preparation on each, and cover with another crouton. Next grate four ounces of 172 EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. parmesan cheese, mix it into a paste with butter, divide it. into as many parts as there are sandwiches, roll each into a roiled ball, and place one on the top of each sand- wich. About ten minutes before serving put them into oven; let them be thoroughly heated; pass a red-hot salamander over them; dish on a napkin; and serve. 468. MINCED SANDWICHES. Cut some thin slices of bread, fry them crisp in oil; take some ham or tongue, andny sort of Same or Poultry- Cut in thin small slices a few^pjckled gherkins and olives —there should be equal proportion's of each; mince fine, and mix well; moisten with a sauceNajade of a spoonful of shallot vinegar, a little oil, mustard, anai^little sugar, worked well together; spread the mixture oJiJ'h6 t°ast, and lay another piece on the top; cut them oCu a nea* shape, and not too large. \ 469. ANCHOVY TOAST. Bone a few anchovies, pound them in a mortar or mini'6 very fine with dried parsley, half a clove of garlic, a litt,e cayenne, a squeeze of lemon-juice, and a very little salac- oil. Serve on toasted bread, or bread fried in oil. \ 470. CROUTONS AUX ROGNONS Are best made with veal kidneys. Take two, cut them in small pieces, and put them into a stew-pan with some | butter, salt, and two or three onions minced; let them stew till they are tender. Meanwhile, put into another saucepan a piece of butter, a spoonful of flour, and a EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 173 little broth. Eeduce it till it is thick; then put in the kidneys, four whole eggs, some finely-minced parsley, and a little grated nutmeg; stir well together over the fire for a few minutes, and let it get cold. Cut some slices of French roll of the day before's baking; dip them in milk in which you have beaten up an egg. Spread the mince on them thickly. Fry them in hot oil or clarified butter, and serve very hot. 471. EAVIOLI 1 LA NAPOLTTAINE. Take some of the best Naples macaroni, parmesan cheese, good fresh butter, a dozen livers of chickens, some celery, an onion or two, some carrots and turnips. Begin by mincing the livers and vegetables very fine, and put them into a saucepan to cook in a little butter over a gentle fire. Meanwhile blanch the macaroni, add pepper and a little fine spice; and when done enough let it drain. Now take the dish you mean to serve it in, and which should be rather deep and able to stand the fire; lay some macaroni first in the dish, then a layer of the minced livers and vegetables, then one of grated parme- san cheese, and so on till the dish is full enough. You should end with a layer of cheese. Then set the dish over a gentle fire on the stove or in the oven, and let it cook for a few minutes. Brown it on the top, and serve very hot. 472. MACARONI 1 LA NAPOLITAINE. Put a pound of macaroni into boiling water, with a piece of butter, some salt, and an onion stuck with cloves. Let it boil for three-quarters of an hour; then s / 174 EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. drain the macaroni, and put it into a saucepan with some grated parmesan cheese, a very little nutmeg, some pepper, salt, and as much cream as will make sufficient sauce. Let the whole stew gently together a few minutes, and serve very hot. These are genuine Nea- politan recipes. PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 473. GATEATJ AU Kiz. Two handfuls of rice, a small quantity of lemon-peel, half a laurel-leaf, and a pint of milk; boil together till it is quite dry, then put in the yolks of three eggs and one white; sweeten to taste with moist sugar. Butter a mould, shake in some fine bread-crumbs, put in the rice, and bake three-quarters of an hour. 474. GATEAU DE NOUILLES. Take the yolks of five eggs and the white of one, and as much flour as will work it into a stiff paste; roll it out as thin as a wafer, then roll it up very lightly and cut it in strings as fine as a packthread; shake it together and throw it into water ready boiling on the fire, and let it boil five minutes; then put it into a colander, and let some cold water run through it; drain it well; butter a mould, sprinkle it all over with fine bread-crumbs, then put in the nouilles mixed with a quarter of a pound of sugar and the grated peel of a lemon. Melt two ounces of butter and pour over them, sprinkle some bread- crumbs on the top, and bake three-quarters of an hour. A gateau of macaroni or vermicelli may be made in the same way, previously boiling them tender in a little milk with some seasoning, and the yolks of two eggs may be added. 176 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 475. RICE PUDDING WITHOUT EGGS. Put half a pound of rice well washed into three pints of milk, with half a pound of moist sugar. Bake till the rice is tender. 476. TAPIOCA PUDDING. Boil a pint of cream and a pint of milk with some sugar, a pinch of salt, and the rind of a lemon; when boiling put in half a pound of tapioca and let it simmer over a slow fire till quite tender, then add a small piece of butter and six eggs, previously beaten; mix well, and pour it either into a dish or mould, and bake till it is brown on the top; if baked in a mould the mould should be buttered and strewed with bread-crumbs, which makes it turn out better. Tapioca swells very much, and requires a long time cooking. If boiled over a strong fire and too quickly it becomes tough, therefore this is to be avoided. 477. POOR MAN'S TAPIOCA PUDDING. Put into a stew-pan five ounces of tapioca, one pint of new milk, five ounces of sugar, and a little salt; stir this over the fire till it boils, then cover the stew-pan with its lid and let it simmer for twenty minutes; add a small piece of butter melted in a little cream and the grated rind of a lemon. Pour into a well-buttered pudding- dish, and bake for a quarter of an hour. 478. A PUDDING WITHOUT EGGS. Boil a pint of milk; take a thick slice of bread and grate it down fine, pour the boiling milk over and cover it close up for half an hour; then add some marmalade, PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTEY, ETC. 177 grated lemon,' or any other flavouring you like, sugar to taste, and half a teaspoonful of salt. If you like you may also add a glass of wine. Pour all together into a pudding-dish and bake for a quarter of an hour. 479. ARROWROOT PUDDING. One tablespoonful of arrowroot, half a pint of milk, and a small quantity of lemon-peel; put it on a slow fire and stir till it boils; then add the yolks of four eggs, a glass of white wine, and a teaspoonful of orange-flower water. Beat up the whites of four eggs and stir them in lightly. Sweeten to taste with loaf-sugar. Butter a mould, place dried cherries round it, or in any form you fancy, and pour in the pudding. Set the mould in a stew-pan of water, and steam for half an hour, with fire on the lid of the stew-pan, which makes it light. Serve with an arrowroot and wine-sauce. 480. CUSTARD PUDDING. Half a pint of thin cream or new milk, a little loaf- sugar, a small bit of laurel-leaf, a very little cinnamon, and a small quantity of lemon-peel. Put it on the fire, and let it boil; then let it stand till it is cold, when add the yolks of five eggs; strain through a sieve, butter small moulds, put the custard into them, steam twenty minutes. Serve with either a wine or custard-sauce. 481. BAKED CUSTARD PUDDING. Make the custard with eight yolks of eggs, half a pint of cream or new milk, half a lemon-peel grated, two spoonfuls of orange-flower water, and two ounces of N 178 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. sugar. Boil the milk and add the eggs when cold; then strain; line a pudding-dish with tart paste, placing some round the edge; put in the custard, and bake till set; or line a mould with biscuit paste, fill it with flour, and bake it. When done, take out the flour, fill it with the custard, and put it again in the oven till the custard is set and brown at the top. 482. SAGO CUSTARD PUDDINGS. Take a spoonful and a half of sago, and put it into a saucepan with as much water as will cover it, a drop of cinnamon, three blades of mace, and some lemon-peel, and set it on to boil. When you find it clear and thoroughly done, add to it half a pint of new milk, and keep stirring it over the fire. When it becomes thick take it off, remove the seasoning, beat the yolks of four and the white of one egg well up with half a pint of cream; sweeten to taste; then take the milk and sago boiling hot, and mix well with the cream and eggs. Put it into small moulds, and bake or steam for ten minutes. Tapioca may be done in the same way. 483. GROUND RICE CUSTARD PUDDINGS. Boil a pint of new milk with a bay-leaf, two or three bitter almonds, and some brown sugar, for a quarter of an hour; take two ounces of ground rice and stir it in by degrees while the milk is boiling until thick; let it boil a few minutes longer; dip your cups in cold water, pour the mixture into them, turn them out just before serving. They are best eaten cold, with the following sauce :— PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 179 Take about half a pint of milk or cream, a little whole cinnamon, some lemon-peel, a bay-leaf, and enough brown sugar to sweeten it. Boil it a quarter of an hour, and when cold add to it three yolks of eggs. Put it on the fire again, but do not let it boil. Two minutes before you take it off thicken with a little ground rice, with the addition of a glass of madeira or sherry. This is a good sauce for all puddings that require one. 484. LEMON CUSTARD PUDDINGS. Take the yolks of six eggs and the whites of three, the rinds of two lemons grated and the juice of one, half a pound of powdered sugar, two Naples biscuits grated, and a small glass of brandy. Beat all well together, add a pint of good cream and two ounces of fresh butter. Butter small moulds, put in the pudding, and bake half an hour in a quick oven. This is a very good recipe. 485. VERMICELLI PUDDING. Take two ounces of vermicelli, boil it in a pint of milk till the milk thickens, stirring it all the time it is boil- ing; then add six ounces of butter, half a pound of sugar, six yolks and four whites of eggs, and the grated rind of a lemon. Line a dish or shape with puff-paste, and boil half an hour. 486. MACARONI PUDDING. Simmer one or two ounces of pipe macaroni in a pint of milk, with a bit of lemon-peel and cinnamon, till tender; add cream, three yolks of eggs and one white. 180 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. a little nutmeg, and some sugar. Bake in a dish or shape lined with puff-paste half an hour. 487. BREAD-AND-BUTTER PUDDING. Cut thin slices of bread and butter, and lay them in a well-buttered mould or pudding-dish; between each layer strew currants and a little powdered cinnamon and sugar; fill your dish or mould thus three parts full, and pour in a cold custard made with four or six eggs (according to the size of the pudding), beaten up with cream or milk, and flavoured with lemon-peel; pour it in by little at a time so that the bread may absorb it without floating; when full, bake one hour. If wished rather richer, when made in a mould, a little wine or brandy may be poured on the bread before the custard. 488. BATTER PUDDING. Two spoonfuls of fine flour, the whites of two eggs and yolk of one, with milk enough to moisten; beat well together and boil twenty minutes. Serve with wine- sauce, or eat it with cold butter and brown sugar, which is much the best. 489. BATTER PUDDING BAKED. Take six ounces of fine flour, three eggs, and a pinch of salt; add by degrees as much milk as will when well beaten make it the consistence of thick cream. Pour into a pudding-dish, and bake three-quarters of an hour; or it may be boiled in a basin, buttered and floured, and tied up in a cloth. It will require two hours' boiling. PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 181 490. YORKSHIRE PUDDING. Six eggs, six heaped tablespoonfuls of flour, and a tea- spoonful of salt; beat and strain the eggs, and mix them with the flour. It should be rather a thin batter. Heat the pan and rub it with butter or dripping before the batter is poured in; it should be about an inch thick. When the pudding is browned on one side, turn and brown it on the other. It may be made plainer with half a pound of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, three eggs, and a pint of milk, and baked in a tin under a joint of roasting beef or mutton. 491. HASTY PUDDING. Boil a pint of milk with a pinch of salt; while boiling stir into it by degrees as much flour as will thicken it, pour it out, and eat with cold butter and brown sugar. 492. FIG PUDDING. Chop six ounces of suet and half a pound of the best figs fine, add three-quarters of a pound of bread-crumbs, and four ounces of moist sugar; mix first the bread and suet, then the figs and sugar; add a little nutmeg, a well-beaten egg, and a cup of milk. Boil in a mould four hours. 493. BREAD PUDDING. Put into a stew-pan a pint of bread-crumbs, with as much milk as will cover them, the peel of a lemon, and a small bit of cinnamon; boil about ten minutes, sweeten with powdered sugar, take out the lemon and 182 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. cinnamon, and add four eggs. Beat all well together, and boil one hour, or bake half an hour. 494. NEW COLLEGE PUDDINGS. Beat six yolks and three whites of eggs, mix them with one spoonful of flour and four of bread-crumbs; add a little salt and nutmeg, with sugar to taste, four ounces of shred suet, and the same of picked and washed currants; mix well together. Make the batter into egg-shaped pieces with a spoon, and fry in very hot butter, or they may be baked in pattypans. 495. PUDDINGS IN HASTE. Mix shred suet with grated bread-crumbs, a handful of currants cleaned or a few stoned raisins, the beat yolks of three eggs and the white of one, with a little grated lemon-peel, to a stiffish paste. Roll this in flour, and with two spoons make it into small balls; have ready a pan of fast-boiling water, drop them in; when done they will rise to the top. 496. SPONGE-CAKE PUDDING. Steep sponge-cake in brandy, butter a mould and stick it over with dried cherries; put the cake in and make a custard with three whole eggs and four yolks, about half a pint of milk, and a little sugar and nutmeg; fill up the mould and boil it an hour. Serve with arrow- root and brandy sauce. 497. THE TEDWORTH ALBERT PUDDING. Take twelve ounces of bread-crumbs or sponge-cake; boil PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 183 a pint of cream and pour it over the crumbs ; leave them to soak a little, rub off on a piece of lump sugar the rind of a lemon; when pounded it should be about a quarter of a pound. Well whip the yolks of six and the whites of two eggs. Mix all well together, adding a pinch of salt; butter a mould well, and pour in the mix- ture; boil or steam the pudding one hour and a half; serve with clear wine-sauce. Currants or cherries may be added if liked. 498. MARMALADE PUDDING. Take about half a teacupful of milk, one tablespoonful of fine flour, and about two ounces of white sugar; put it on the fire, and stir till it boils; then add the yolks of four eggs, and one small pot of marmalade, reserving most of the chips to line the mould with. Mix all well up together, then beat up the whites of five eggs, and stir them lightly in. Butter a mould and line it completely with orange chips, put in the pudding, and steam it for half an hour with fire under and over. 499. SIR WATKIN WYNNE'S PUDDING. Take ten ounces of bread-crumbs, eight ounces of chopped suet, three ounces of pounded sugar, the grated peel and juice of two large lemons, three eggs, and a little salt. Mix all well together, put it into a mould that will just holS it, and boil for three hours. Serve with a clear wine-sauce. 500. MARROW PUDDING. Take half a pound of marrow from beef bones, grate about half a pound of bread into crumbs; put both into 184 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. a basin and pour a pint of boiling cream over them, cover it close, and let it stand till nearly cold; beat up six eggs very light and mix them in, add a little grated nut- meg and cinnamon, a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, and a spoonful of smooth marmalade. If liked a small glass of brandy may also be added. Mix all well to- gether, butter a mould, lay it with dried cherries or orange-chips, put in the pudding, and boil one hour; or it may be baked for the same time in a dish with good puff-paste round the edge. 501. SUNDAY PUDDING. / Take half a pint of raisins, and half a pound of currafats, the same of suet chopped fine and of bread-crumbs, one tablespoonful of flour, half a glass of brandy, a small piece of lemon-peel chopped fine, three ounces of moist sugar, four eggs, and one teacupful of milk. Mix all these ingredients well together, put it in your mould, and boil four hours. 502. PLUM PUDDINGS. Suet, flour, currants, and stoned raisins, of each one pound, the rind of a lemon grated, four eggs, as much milk as will mix it into a proper consistency, and a wine- glassful of brandy. Flour a cloth, tie it up tight, and boil eight or nine hours; or it may be boiled the same time in a mould. Instead of all flour, half the weight of bread-crumbs is an improvement. 503. A EICH PLUM PUDDING. Four ounces of bread-crumbs, two ounces of flour, half a pound of muscatel raisins stoned, the same quantity of PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 185 picked and washed currants, a pound of sliced kidney suet, a quarter of a pound powdered sugar, a saltspoon- ful of salt, a little mixed spice, two ounces of candied lemon, orange, or citron peel, chopped; the rind of two, and the juice of one lemon; beat six eggs well with some new milk, and a glassful of brandy. Mix all well together, and let it stand two or three hours. Scald and flour a cloth, tie the pudding in firmly, and boil for five hours briskly. 504. MINCE PIES. Take a good fat salted bullock's tongue; parboil, skin, mince, or scrape two pounds of it. Mince separately two pounds of beef kidney suet, the same of good sound apples peeled and cored, half a pound of candied citron and orange peel, a pound and a half of stoned raisins; add two pounds of picked and washed currants, an ounce of mixed spices, a teaspoonful of salt, a pound of sugar, the grated rind and juice of two lemons, and two Seville oranges. Mix well, and keep in jars in a cool airy place. Before using, moisten with a pint and a half of sherry, half a pint of brandy, and the same quantity of orange- flower water. Cover baking-pans of any size with rich puff-paste, fill with the minced meat;, put a cover of paste over, trim the edges neatly with a cutter, glaze them with sugar, and bake half an hour in a moderate oven. The minced meat should only be moistened just before using, and the apples are better added in the same way, or they may be omitted altogether. 505. MONDAY PUDDING. Place some slices of Sunday pudding at the bottom of a mould, take half a pint of thin cream or new milk, a 186 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. very little cinnamon, a little lemon-peel, and one laurel- leaf; set it over a slow fire and let it boil, then add the yolks of four eggs; beat it all up together, and strain it through a sieve over the plum-pudding in the mould; then set the mould in a stew-pan of water, and steam it half an hour. 506. RATAFIA PUDDING. Grate a large slice of stale bread, boil a pint of cream or new milk, put the bread in a basin and pour the cream over, and cover the basin with a plate. Pound two ounces of sweet almonds and two or three bitter ones with a little cold milk or cream till they are quite smooth; mix it with the bread in the basin, beat up six eggs till they are quite light, and add them, also a very little cinnamon and nutmeg grated, a little sugar, and a glass of brandy. Mix all well together; butter a mould, pour in the ingredients and put it to boil in a pan of boiling water for an hour, taking care to keep the water at the same height by adding more as it boils down, but be careful it does not boil over into the mould, which should have a cover and weight on it. Turn it out and serve with a custard-sauce poured over it (see Pudding Sauces). 507. MUFFIN PUDDING. A pint of milk boiled, sweetened, and flavoured with cinnamon and lemon-peel; strain it and add the yolks of four eggs. Take half a pound of ratafia biscuit crumbled down, two muffins sliced, some dried cherries, half a gill of brandy and the same of sweet wine; butter a mould well with fresh butter, stick the cherries on the inside, then put in n layer of grated biscuit, next of PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 187 muffin, and so on alternately, till the mould is near full, then pour in the brandy and wine. Three-quarters of an hour before you wish to serve the pudding add the custard as above, and put the mould into a stew-pan of boiling water, taking care that the water does not get in over the top of the mould. Serve with a wine-sauce. 508. CABINET PUDDING. Boil a pint of cream with a bit of lemon-peel and a little salt; pour the cream while boiling over six pounds of sponge or Naples biscuits, and let them soak; then add the yolks of eight eggs, and the beaten whites of six, also a little brandy; butter a mould, decorate it with preserved cherries, pour in the mixture, and put it into a bain marie to steam for half an hour; serve either with a clear wine or custard sauce. This pudding may also be made with the remains of Savoy biscuits, or the crumb of a French roll or penny loaf. 509. GINGER PUDDING. Take twelve sponge-biscuits soaked in a pint oi cream or milk, ten yolks of eggs, two ounces of preserved wet ginger cut in small pieces, a spoonful of the ginger-syrup, and two ounces of dissolved butter • boil it half an hour in a buttered mould au bain marie, or bake it in a dish lined with puff-paste. Pine-apple pudding may be made the same. Serve with a custard-sauce flavoured with ginger or pine-apple. 510. LEMON PUDDING. Take eight yolks and four whites of eggs, a quarter of a pound of sugar, one pound of. butter, half a pint of 188 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. cream, the juice of one lemon and the grated peel of two. Mix well together, put it in a form of puff-paste, and bake about half an hour. 511. ANOTHER LEMON PUDDING. A teacupful of water, two ounces of butter, one ounce of loaf-sugar, the juice and grated rinds of two lemons. Boil all together for ten minutes, then add the yolks of eight eggs well beaten; stir without ceasing after putting in the eggs till it is as thick as custard; take the pan off the fire. Have ready, half baked, a shell of puff-paste, pour in the pudding, and bake for half an hour; or it may be baked in a dish lined with puff-paste. 512. ORANGE PUDDING. Take three China orange skins, boil them in rose water till tender, pound them in a mortar; add twelve yolks of eggs, twelve ounces of sugar, and six ounces of butter. Beat all well together in the mortar till thoroughly mixed; put it into a shell of puff-paste, and bake half an hour. 513. DUNNIKIER ORANGE PUDDING. Take five ounces of butter, melt it in a pan, but do not let it oil; add to it while warm five ounces of sugar, and the yolks of ten eggs beaten; mix well together, and beat till the mixture turns white. Have the bottom of a baking tin covered with puff-paste; spread thickly on it orange marmalade, and pour the rest of the ingredients over; bake in a moderate oven about half an hour; turn it out of the tin and serve. Pine-apple and apricot may be made in the same way. This is an excellent recipe. PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 189 514. APRICOT PUDDING. Take twelve large apricots, scald them till they are soft; pour on the grated crumb of a penny loaf, a pint of cream boiling hot; when cool, add four ounces of sugar, the yolks of four eggs well beaten, and a glass of madeira or sherry. Pound the apricots in a mortar with the kernels; then mix the fruit and other ingredients well together. Line a pattypan with puif-paste, put in the pudding, and bake half an hour. 515. GOOSEBERRY PUDDING. Stew gooseberries in a stone jar over a hot stove, or placed in a saucepan of water, till they will pulp; rub them through a coarse sieve, and take a pint of the pulp and beat it with three whole eggs, previously whipped together and strained, an ounce and a half of butter, and as much sugar as will sweeten it; add some crumbs of roll, or four ounces of Naples biscuit, to give it consistence; put into a shape of puff-paste, and bake half an hour. 516. APPLE PUDDING. Stew some apples, and pulp them through a sieve. To about half a pound of apples, after they are pulped, add six ounces of melted, but not oiled butter, in which mix as 'much sugar as will just sweeten the pudding; add the yolks of six eggs, and the whites of four, whipped. Mix all with the apples, and beat it very light; add the rind of a lemon. Cover the bottom of a baking-tin with puff- paste, and pour the pudding into it; bake in a moderate oven half an hour, strew sugar over it, and serve. PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 191 let it stand by the fire till the first course is served. Whip the whites of three eggs to a fine froth, stir it quickly into the rice, put it into the dish it will be served in, and set it over a stove. Sprinkle sugar over when nearly done, brown with a salamander, and serve. 520. SWEET OMELETTE. Break six eggs, separate the whites, mix the yolks with a quarter of a pound of sugar, two spoonfuls of flour, the peel of a lemon grated, and a very little mace. "Whisk the whites to a stiff froth, then mix all together and fry it. When done at the bottom, turn it into a a dish, sift fine powdered sugar over it, and glaze it with a hot salamander. 521. CREAM SOUFFLE. Take three yolks of eggs, three spoonfuls of flour, one spoonful of maraschino; mix them together, and add a pint of cream; beat Up four whites of eggs to a strong froth, and stir them in. Bake in a case, and sift pounded sugar over. 522. SOUFFLE. Souffle's require the greatest care in their preparation and baking; their lightness mainly depends on the proper whisking of the eggs, but also much on the oven being the right heat. Experience alone can determine this. They should be served the moment they come out of the oven, or they will fall and become heavy. They are better under than over done. A really good souffl^ cannot be made without practice and experience. 192 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. If it fails, there is one consolation, that a souffle "manque1" generally makes a very good pudding. They should be baked in a proper souffle-dish, which is double, the inside case being put in the oven, and then placed in the finer one when sent to table. Souffle.—A quarter of a pound of fine flour, half a pint of cream, and a piece of butter the size of a nutmeg; stir this constantly together in a stew-pan over a slow fire till it is very thick; then add the yolks of five eggs, half a pint of new milk, and sugar to your taste. Flavour with orange-flower, vanille, or what you please. Stir it well together, but not on the fire; beat the whites of five eggs to a strong froth, and mix it lightly in. Bake in a gentle oven half an hour. Take care it is served immediately it comes out of the oven. Sprinkle a little sugar on the top. 523. SOUFFLE AU Eiz. Boil two ounces of rice flour in a pint of milk quite thick, stirring it all the time till cold; mix with it four yolks of eggs, the peel of a lemon grated, and half a pound of fine powdered sugar. Whisk twelve whites of eggs to a very stiff froth, and stir them quickly and lightly in. Bake in a case or mould, and sift pounded sugar over the top before serving. It may be flavouied with vanille, orange-flower, coffee, ginger, etc. 524. SOUFFLE DE FECULE DE POMME DE TEERE. Mix two ounces of potato-flour with half a pint of boil- ing cream, in which you have infused the peel of a lemon; add a little sugar, a large lump of butter, and PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 193 a very little salt; break six eggs, and add the yolks of four of them; now beat the six whites to a froth, which pour gently into the mixture, and then the whole into a souffle'-dish, which place in a moderate oven. When done enough powder a little sugar over, and serve the moment it comes out of the oven. The sugar must of course predominate over the salt; but observe, that the less sugar there is in a souffle the lighter it will be. 525. OMELETTE SOUFFLE. Break six eggs; separate the yolks and whites; add to the yolks two spoonfuls of sugar, a little orange-flower water, or a few drops of spirit of lemons. Work them well together. Whip the whites to a firm froth, and mix lightly with the rest. Put into the frying-pan a small bit of butter; let it melt, that the pan may be buttered all over; pour in the omelette, set it on a slow fire, and take care it does not burn. In a minute or two, when it has set, turn it out upon the dish it is to be served on. Sift sugar over, and put it in the oven. As soon as it has risen, take it out and serve imme- diately. 526. PANCAKES. A spoonful of flour, a pint of new milk, and a little cream, if you have it, mixed well; the yokes and whites of three eggs beat together, but not too much, as it makes the pancakes tough, added, with sugar to your taste, and a teaspoonful of salt; they may be flavoured also with grated lemon-peel, or whatever is liked. Melt a piece of butter in a frying-pan; pour in, when it is hot, as much of the batter as will cover the bottom of the o 194 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. pan, fry brown on both sides, roll up the pancake, and serve very hot with sugar sprinkled over them. 527. ENGLISH PANCAKES. Take six yolks of eggs, break them into a bowl, sepa- rating the whites, which beat up until they are quite light; beat the yolks also with a little sifted sugar, a teacupful of cream, and a quarter of a pound of flour; mix in the whites, have a good clear fire ready, put a bit of fresh butter into the frying-pan, and when it froths pour in a breakfast-cupful of the batter; keep shaking the pan for a little, loosen the batter round the edge with the point of a knife, give it a shake, toss it over, and do it the same time on the other side; then turn it over, and lay them on a hot dish. Cook as many as you require in the same way. Strew sugar over and serve very hot. Lemon should be served with them, but separately. 528. FRENCH PANCAKES. Take four eggs, beat the whites quickly to a snow; then beat the yolks up with a spoonful of fine sugar, two spoonfuls of flour and one of cream. Mix all together, and fry in butter of a light brown colour. Lay it over with apricot marmalade, fold it up, and serve very hot. 529. FRENCH THICK PANCAKE. Take the yolks of four eggs, and beat them up with four tablespoonfuls of sugar till very light, add a table- spoonful of orange or pine-apple marmalade, a little nut- meg, four tablespoonfuls of flour, and four of good cream; whisk the whites to a snow, and mix all well PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 195 together; pour the batter into an omelette-pan, in which you have melted a piece of butter. Fry on a slow fire of a light brown; turn it over, strew sugar over it either simply or glazed with a salamander. 530. FRENCH LIGHT PANCAKES. Mix the yolks of seven eggs, half a pint of cream, and one ounce of butter broken up into small pieces, with three spoonfuls of flour; whisk the whites of the eggs to a snow, and when ready to be fried mix all together. Fry in a very little butter as thin as possible; do not turn them in the pan, but as they are done turn them out one upon the other, sifting sugar between till you have enough. A few seconds is enough to cook each, but they must not be left for a minute till they are served, and should be very hot. 531. RICE PANCAKES. A quarter of a pound of rice boiled quite tender in milk, pounded in a mortar with a little sugar, nutmeg, and cream; add four eggs well beaten, mix all together, and fry them like other pancakes. 532. CHEESECAKES. Beat a quart of milk with eight eggs till it comes to a curd, strain the whey from it, and put the curd, with a quarter of a pound of butter, three eggs, and three spoonfuls of sugar, into a mortar; beat and mix tho- roughly, add half a nutmeg and a little salt. Bake in very light puff-paste cases. 196 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 533. CURD CHEESECAKES. Beat in a mortar till it looks like butter a pound and a half of cheese-curd, with ten ounces of butter; add a quarter of a pound of almonds previously pounded with orange-flower water, a pound of sugar, eight yolks and four whites of eggs, and a little cream. It will take a quarter of an hour to incorporate all these ingredients thoroughly. Bake in puff-paste in a quick oven. 534. ALMOND CHEESECAKES. Take six ounces of sweet and three of bitter almonds, and beat them fine in the mortar; add eight eggs well whipped, twelve ounces of loaf-sugar, half a pound of fresh butter carefully melted, and four ounces of ground rice. Mix well together, and beat it up for half an hour. Bake in pattypans lined with puff-paste in a moderate oven. 535. LEMON CHEESECAKES. The peel of two lemons boiled in two or three waters till tender; pound them with six ounces of sugar; add the yolks of six eggs beaten up well with six ounces of melted butter and the juice of half a lemon. Bake in pattypans lined with puff-paste in a quick oven. 536. ORANGE CHEESECAKES. Blanch half a pound of sound sweet almonds, and beat them very fine with "two spoonfuls of orange-flower water, half a pound of fine pounded sugar, three quarters of a pound of melted butter added when almost cold, eight yolks and four whites of eggs. When well beaten PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 197 and mixed, strain it. Boil the peel of a Seville orange till the bitterness is out, pound it fine, and mix with the rest. Bake in very light puff-paste. This is an in- comparable cheesecake. Orange, apricot, or pine-apple marmalade may be substituted for the Seville orange- peeL 537. EGG CHEESE. Take a quart of new milk, add to it sixteen yolks and eight whites of eggs; beat and strain them; then put in a piece of sugar dissolved in water, a large piece of cinnamon, the rinds of a lemon and an orange. Mix well together; and before you set it on the fire, squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Let the fire be slow, and stir with a wooden spoon from the bottom till you see it come to a soft curd; then take it off and put it to drain in a frame. Let it hang two hours, and serve, covering it with the following cream:—A quart of cream, eight yolks of eggs, a piece of sugar dissolved in water, half a spoonful of fine flour, a piece of cinnamon, the rind of an orange and a lemon. Set over a slow fire, whisk till it begins to bubble; take it off, let it get cold, and serve, poured over the cheese. 538. PORTUGAL EGGS. Take nine eggs and boil them hard; pound them in a mortar with some sugar, a little pounded cinnamon, and nutmeg; add two raw eggs to bind them. Roll the paste, with your hands well floured, into eight or nine round balls; then take half a pint of good cream, put it into a pan with some sugar, a stick of cinnamon or vanille, and the rind of a lemon; add the egg-balls; let 198 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTEY, ETC. them stew gently over a slow fire, moving the pan occasionally. When you think they are done enough, take them out carefully with a spoon, arrange them on a dish, pour the cream over, and serve. 539. (EUFS A LA NEIGE. Beat to a strong froth some whites of eggs, and boil it in milk with a little salt; cut them all of a size with a spoon; and set them to drain. Boil a pint of cream; when it is boiling throw in the outer rind of half a lemon, a little sugar, and a very small quantity of salt; beat the yolks of four eggs with the cream, and let it thicken on the fire, stirring it continually. When thick enough strain through a tammy and pour over the ceufs k la neige, which you must previously arrange on the dish they are to be sent to table in. The flavouring of this sauce may be varied with vanille, almond, rose, etc. 540. PATE A FRIRE. Sift half a pound of flour, put it into a dish with two spoonfuls of oil, a little salt, and three yolks of eggs; moisten it with small beer in such quantities that the paste is not stringy; work it till it is of the consistency of thick cream; whip one or two whites of eggs and mix them lightly with the paste. Make it two or three hours before it is wanted; remember that the lightness of the paste depends upon the whites of eggs being well whipped. The paste may be made with butter instead of oil, and with hot water instead of beer, adding a glass of white wine. The fat taken from the stock-pot makes the best fritters, after that the kidney fat of beef minced. PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 199 Fine oil is also good, but hog's lard softens them and prevents their being so crisp. 541. CREME PATISSIERE. Break two eggs into a stew-pan, with a little salt and as much sifted flour as they will take up; mix in a pint of new milk, put it on the fire, stir constantly that it may not stick till you do not smell the flour; then add a lump of butter the size of a walnut, put it into a dish, and rub a little butter over it that it may not harden on the outside. 542. CREME FRANGIPANE. Take the above cr6me, add to it a little sugar, a spoon- ful or two of orange-flower water, and some crumbled macaroons. Mix all well together till it is quite smooth; then add eggs to it, mixing them in one by one till it is of the consistence of thick soup. To be used for tourte de frangipane, cream tartlets, fritters, etc. 543. GATEAU AUX PISTACHES. Make a cre'me patissiere (which see). Blanch a quarter of a pound of pistachios and of sweet almonds; pound them together, occasionally adding a drop of water to prevent their oiling. When quite smooth take them out of the mortar, have ready prepared a spoonful of spinach blanched, pressed in butter, beaten and rubbed through a colander: add this to the paste, and put both into the cream, which should have' as much flour in it as it will take. Add now three-quarters of a pound of sifted sugar, a teaspoonful of orange-flower water, four whole eggs, six yolks, and a quarter of a pound of melted 200 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. butter. Mix all well together. Whip the six whites, mix them in lightly. Prepare a stew-pan by buttering it with clarified butter, drain it and powder it all over with fine crumbs of bread; put in the mixture and bake it in the oven for three-quarters of an hour. Serve immediately it comes out. 544. GENOISES GLACE A L'ITALIENNE. Put into a sweetmeat-pan five ounces of sugar and five eggs; miY as for a biscuit; add a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds beaten, and the same quantity of flour; butter a baking-sheet, roll the paste the thickness of a crown-piece, lay it on the sheet, and bake of a fine colour in a quick oven. When done you may cut it into any form you please. Clarify a pound of sugar, put the pan into cold water, and gather the sugar; mix gradually the whites of five eggs well whisked with it; glaze the tops of the genoises with this, and set them to dry for a quarter of an hour in the stove. 545. GATEAU A LA EEINE. Beat a pound of sweet almonds to a paste; add a pound of sifted sugar, and four whites of eggs, by degrees. When well mixed, it may be cut into what shapes you fancy. Bake in a slow oven, and glaze the same as the genoises. 546. GATEAU NAPOLITAINE 1 LA CHANTILLY. Weigh one pound of flour, eight ounces of sifted sugar, eight ounces of pounded sweet almonds, and the same of butter; mix them on the pastry slab with five yolks of eggs, the zest of two oranges rubbed off on a piece of -. PUDLiINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 201 sugar, and a very little salt. Work all well together. When thoroughly mixed, knead the paste into the form of a rolling-phi, and divide into twelve equal parts. Knead these again into round balls, and roll them out to about seven inches diameter. Cut them all the same*, size with a circular cutter, prick them all over with a fork, egg them, and lay them on previously buttered baking-tins, and bake them 'in a moderate oven, keeping them a light colour. When they are done, lay a weight on them to keep them flat, till they are cold; then lay one upon another, with a layer of apricot or other jam between each. The sides and top may be iced with sugar, or decorated according to taste. 547. BABA. Take half an ounce of salt, five whole eggs, a pound and a half of butter, the same quantity of picked raisins, half that quantity of currants, a little powdered saffron, and a small quantity of yeast. Make a hole in the centre of a pound of flour; put all these things in, and work it with a little warm water to a smooth and not too stiff paste. Rub a saucepan with butter, and put in the baba. If in winter, leave it five or six hours to rise; in summer it will not require so long. When it has risen bake like any other cake in a moderate oven. 548. BEIGNETS DE POMMES 1 LA BAVARIE. Pare and quarter some large pippins; lay them to soak in brandy with some fine sugar, cinnamon, and lemon- peel; turn them often, and, when near dinner-time, dry them in a cloth, roll them about in flour, and fry them 202 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. tender in hot lard. Dish, and sift over them a quan- tity of fine sugar, and colour them with a salamander. 549. BEIGNETS DE PECHES AU VIN DU EHIN. , These should be made of a fleshy kind of peach, and each cut in two. Put them to soak in some Ehenish wine, with plenty of sugar, some cinnamon and lemon- peel. When ready to serve, dry them, and fry in hot lard, without any flour. Strain the wine into a stew- pan, and boil it to a syrup; add the kernels of the peaches blanched and split, and pour it over the fruit when dished. Any sort of large good fruit may be done in the same way, with the difference only that they should be dipped in a thin batter made with flour and small beer. 550. BEIGNETS DE FRAISES. Make a batter thus: To two eggs, whites and yolks, well beat, put half a pint of cream thickened with fine flour, sugar, and a little cinnamon. Put the strawberries raw into this batter, and fry them in a pan of hot lard, a spoonful at a time. Dish them in a pyramid, and sift sugar between and over them. Raspberries and other fruit are good done in the same way. 551. BEIGNETS D'ORANGE. Take four or five sweet oranges, and slice off the peel with a knife; cut them in quarters, and take out the pips; put them on the fire with a little sugar. Mix some white wine, a little flour, a spoonful of good oil, and a very little salt together; it should be of the con- sistency of thick cream. Dip the quarters of oranges in 204 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 555. SPANISH FRITTERS. Cut the crumb of a French roll into lengths as thick as your finger; soak them in cream with some nutmeg, pounded cinnamon, sugar, and an egg beaten up in it; when well soaked, fry them in butter of a good brown, and serve very hot. 556. STRAWBERRY TOASTS. Soak thin long-shaped pieces of bread in cream, lay good red strawberries on them, and fry in butter; or fry them crisp in butter without soaking the bread, which many prefer. 557. PINE-APPLE TOASTS. Pound the pine-apple to a pulp with some sugar, then spread it neatly on thin pieces of bread; fry them crisp in clarified butter, and serve. 558. PRUSSIAN FRITTERS. Stew well a dozen of apples, sweeten them sufficiently; a small bit of cinnamon or a few cloves should be stewed with them. When done enough, set them to cool; have ready some puff-paste rolled thin and cut into rounds about the size of the top of a teacup; lay a teaspoonful of the apple marmalade on one of these pieces, brush round the edges with egg, and lay another piece of paste on the top; press the edges close together, and trim them neatly with a smaller cutter. Proceed thus till you have enough for your dish. Fry them quickly in butter, that they may not become sodden. Arrange them on the dish, after having sifted pounded sugar 206 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. cut it in pieces, and roll into small balls or long-shaped rolls; dip them lightly into the beaten yolk of an egg, and then roll them in very fine bread-crumbs; repeat this a second time, then fry them in very hot lard a good brown, shake some powdered sugar over, and serve. 561. GERMAN PUFFS. Make a smooth batter with three tablespoonfuls of flour and a little cream; beat up the yolks of four and the whites of three eggs, and mix with the batter. Add sugar to taste, a little powdered cinnamon, and a pinch of salt; then melt in a little cream a piece of fresh butter the size of a walnut; let it get cold, and mix all well together. Butter small moulds well, fill them half full, and bake for ten minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with wine-sauce. 562. KiCE-CAKES. Beat up five yolks and one white of eggs, a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, and a little pounded cinnamon well together; pound in a mortar half an ounce of sweet and four bitter almonds; while pounding add by degrees the eggs, etc.; when sufficiently mixed it should look like thick cream; then add to the mixture a quarter of a pound of ground rice, a large wineglassful of brandy, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, melted; pour this when well beaten together into buttered pattypans, and bake about a quarter of a hour. 563. LEMON PUFFS. Beat the juice of a lemon with half a pound of finely- powdered sugar, adding as you beat it the white of an PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 207 egg whipped to snow; when well beaten add three eggs and the rind of a lemon finely grated, beat again till well mixed. Strew some sheets of paper with sugar, drop the mixture on them, sift a little sugar over, and bake in the oven. 564. DAMPFNUDEL (BAVARIAN). Take a pound of flour, one ounce and a half of yeast, and rather more than a quarter of a pint of hot milk. Set the paste to work in a warm place the same as for bread. When it has well risen add a quarter of a pound of melted butter, two whole eggs, and four ounces of pounded sugar; mix and beat the paste well, and let it swell again. When it begins to rise make it with your hands into small balls, and place them on a well-buttered cold dish, then place them in a gentle heat to rise. When they have attained double their original size put them into a hot oven, and when about half cooked pour over a cup of milk sweetened and flavoured with essence of vanille; finish cooking them, and serve with a sauce of whipped eggs and cream, k la vanille. 565. ZWEIBACH. Put through a tammy into a bowl half a pound of flour, and set it in a warm place to heat moderately; while this is doing make half a glass of milk just lukewarm, with a quarter of a pound of butter, some sugar, and a pinch of salt. When this is well mixed add the flour, mixing it well in with the yolks of two and the white of one egg. When well incorporated add a teaspoonful of beer yeast passed through a tammy. The paste should be of a consistency fit to roll with the hands; if too soft 208 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. more flour may be added. Eoll the paste into round balls, which when baked should be about the size of billiard-balls. Bake in a quick oven. PUDDING SAUCES. 566. CUSTARD-SAUCE. Boil together some sugar and cream; beat up the yolk of an egg, and add it to the boiling cream with a glass of sherry or madeira; stir well, and serve. 567. BRANDY BUTTER SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDING. A quarter of a pound of butter to be beaten with a wooden spoon all one way till it looks like thick cream; then add a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar (less is better), a glass of sherry, and a small glass of brandy; mix well with the butter and sugar, adding only a small quantity at a time. 568. GERMAN PUDDING-SAUCE. Just bring to the boil half a pint of white wine, with a little lemon-peel and sugar in it; beat up well the yolks of seven eggs, and pour the hot wine over them; whisk it or mill it to a froth, and serve with almost any boiled pudding. 569. SABAJONE OR SABAILLON. Mix eight very fresh yolks of eggs with three glasses of madeira or sherry wine, some sugar, and a little cinnamon. Put all into a saucepan over a quick fire; do not let it PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTEY, ETC. 209 boil, but beat it constantly till it rises and is of the con- sistency of thick cream. This is an excellent pudding- sauce, but in Italy it is poured into glasses and eaten by itself, being served at balls, etc. 570. ARROWROOT-SAUCE. Mix smooth with cold water a spoonful or two of arrow- root, pour boiling water over it, stirring continually till it is smooth and clear; then put it into a saucepan with a glass of sherry, a bit of lemon-peel, and a little sugar; heat thoroughly, stirring all the time, take out the lemon- peel, and serve. 571. WINE-SAUCE. Make some thin melted butter, sweeten it with brown sugar, add a little grated lemon-peel, or a little nutmeg, and two glasses of sherry or madeira; make it quite hot, but do not let it boil, and serve immediately. PASTRY. 572. To MAKE PUFF-PASTRY. Take rather more butter than flour—about half a pound of flour makes a good dish of pastry. Mix lightly with your hands rather less than half the butter with all the flour, then add some water and mix again, but work it as little with your hands as possible; roll it out, then put into the centre of the sheet the rest of the butter, and fold it up into six folds; then roll it out again, and 210 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTEY, ETO. refold it in the same way; repeat this three times; lastly, fold it only in three, roll it once more out, and it is ready to use, and can be cut into any form you please. For shells, tartlets, or patties, it should be about three-quar- ters of an inch thick; for puffs, etc., it must be rolled thinner. 573. PASTE FOR RAISED PIES. Take two ounces of butter and three pounds of flour; pour on it a pint of boiling water, mix it into a very stiff paste, put it into a covered stew-pan, and set it near the fire to heat for half an hour; then knead it well, and raise it in a pie or other shape to suit; wash it well over with egg beaten up; ornament the sides in any way you choose; fill it with bran, and bake in a moderate oven of a light brown. 574. PASTE FOR LINING MOULDS OR TIMBALES. One pound of flour mixed with a quarter of a pound of butter, six yolks of eggs, and a glassful of milk. Mix into a stiff paste. 575. CRISP PASTE FOR TARTS. To half a pound of flour well dried add half an ounce of loaf-sugar in fine powder; make it into a stiff paste with half a cupful of boiling cream and an ounce and a half of butter; work it well, and then add a yolk of an egg. 576. ANOTHER. A pint of flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, and two eggs, one spoonful of pounded sugar, and a spoonful of cream; work it well and roll it thin. PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 211 577. A.GOOD TART CRUST TO COVER A DISH. Rub half a pound of butter in one pound of flour, wet it with as much water as will make a stiff paste, roll it out three times, as thin as a crown-piece. This is a good paste to cover all fruit tarts in dishes. 578. BISCUIT PASTE. One pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of sugar, six yolks of eggs, one wineglassful of milk, worked together into a stiff paste. This is good for tarts baked in pans, or lining moulds. For custards line small moulds, fill them with flour, bake them hard; when done take the flour out, clean, fill with custard, and bake till set. '579. ALMONB PASTRY. Make some square thin pieces of puff-paste, pound some sweet and a few bitter almonds very small, mix them with the white of an egg and a little sugar; spread this upon the pieces of pastry, and bake them in an oven till they are as crisp as possible. 580. MADALEINE CAKES. To one tablespoonful of flour add four of cream and three yolks of eggs, with two spoonfuls of pounded sugar; put it on a slow fire, and just let it come to a boil, then set it aside to cool. Have ready some puff-paste rolled as thin as a half-crown. Cut the piece in half, and on one spread the above preparation pretty thinly, then cover it with the other half. Glaze it with egg spread with a brush; bake in a quick oven, and when it is done cut 212 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. it into equal-sized pieces the shape of an ordinary spongecake. Sift coarsely-powdered sugar over them, and glaze with a salamander, so that they may look candied on the top. 581. FRANGIPANE. A quarter of a pint of cream, four yolks of eggs, two ounces of flour, two or three almond-cakes crumbled, four tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little grated lemon-peel, a small quantity of candied peel cut fine, a teaspoonful of brandy, and a very little nutmeg. Set it upon a gentle fire, give it a boil, and stir that it may not become lumpy. Prepare either a square, oval, or round shape of puff-paste, rolled to the thickness of half an inch; put in the mixture, lay bars of paste across it, glaze, bake in a quick oven, and salamander before serving. 582. ANOTHER FRANGIPANE. Take six bitter and a handful of sweet almonds; pound them as fine as possible in a mortar, add a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, a tablespoonful of flour, the yolks of two eggs, half a lemon-peel grated fine, one spoonful of orange marmalade, and a little nutmeg; mix all together with half a pint of good cream. Line a baking-tin with a thin light paste, laying a thicker bit round the edge, put in the preparation, and bake in a moderately hot oven. About half an hour should do it. 583. CUSTARD TART. Cover a tart-pan with puff-paste; stew some apples very soft, then rub them through a sieve, sweeten them to PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 213 taste, and put them in the paste; make a custard with half a pint of cream or good milk; set it on to boil with a laurel-leaf, a bit of lemon-peel, and an ounce and a half of loaf-sugar; when it boils stir in the yolks of three eggs, stir till thick, and pour it over the apples. Beat the whites of ten eggs to a very stiff froth and spread it over the custard, sift fine sugar on to it, and bake in the oven for about twenty minutes. Marmalade or fruit tarts of any sort may be made in the same way. 584. ORANGE TART. Pare off the rind, quarter and remove the core of a dozen and a half of China oranges; boil them in a little sugar and water about three minutes, and lay them on a sieve to drain. Take the juice that runs from them and the liquor they were boiled in and boil it to a syrup; put the oranges in for a minute or two, but without boiling them; then lay them in the shape of crust, which must be previously baked. Just before serving pour the syrup over the oranges. 585. RASPBERRY TART A LA CREME. Eoll out some puff paste thin; line a pattypan with it; put in some fine ripe raspberries, and strew fine sugar over them; put on a lid of paste, and bake in the oven. When done enough cut it open and put in half a pint of cream well beaten with the yolks of two eggs and a little sugar. 586. GiTEAU DE POMMES. One pound of fine sugar boiled to a syrup, one pound of 214 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. apples cored and peeled, some lemon-peel, and the juice of one lemon, or more if necessary, to be boiled over a slow fire in a saucepan without a lid on it till the apples fall and become smooth, and of a proper consistency; then put it in a mould, and serve cold with the fol- lowing :— 587. BURNT CREAM. Make a rich custard of cream and eggs, boiling lemon- peel in it, but no sugar. When cold, pour it over the gateau de pommes, sift a good deal of sugar over, and brown the top with a salamander. 588. APPLES 1 LA PORTUGAISE. Take eight or nine of the best and largest apples, peel and core them, put them in a pewter dish with a little water, set the dish in the oven, fill the core with sugar. When they are baked enough, serve with either lemon, orange, apricot, or pine-apple marmalade poured over them. 589. APPLES WITH CREAM. Pare the apples and cut them in four, take out the core, put them to stew with a little water and sugar in a saucepan. When they begin to fall take them off the fire. In another pan put four yolks of eggs, a spoonful of flour, a pint of good cream, and a little sugar. Set the pan upon a slow fire, and keep stirring the cream continually, taking care it does not boil for fear of curdling it. When done enough, add a glass of madeira or sherry. Arrange the apples in the dish, and pour the sauce over. 216 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 592. FASTNACHTS KRAPFEN. This is a German cake which is eaten on Shrove Tues- day, as pancakes are in England; it is very good, and is made in the following manner:—Take a pint of luke- warm milk, six ounces of butter, two ounces of sugar, six yolks of eggs, and two ounces of yeast. Mix all this well together with as much flour as will make a paste, just stiff enough to roll out; then with a round cutter cut out cakes about the diameter of an orange, and an inch and a half thick; put them on a board in a warm place to rise, and then fry them in hot lard from five to ten minutes, so that they may acquire a nice brown colour; drain them on blotting-paper to free them from fat, sprinkle them with sugar, and serve very hot. It is usual before they rise to open them and introduce a spoonful of jelly or marmalade, and to glaze the outside with egg. 593. ALMOND PASTE. Blanch and pound one pound of Jordan almonds very fine, adding a spoonful of orange-flower water while pounding, to keep them from oiling; add three-quarters of a pound of fine sifted sugar; stir it together over a gentle fire to dry off the moisture; when it becomes a stiff paste take it out of the pan and put it into pots to keep. It is useful for many things, iceing of cakes, etc. 594. ALMOND CUPS. Roll out some of the above paste, and form cups of it in moulds ; bake them in a slow oven, and fill with whipt cream, custard, or preserves. PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 217 595. CHARLOTTE DE POMMES Atrx ABRICOTS. Take a dozen rennet apples, or more if your mould is a very large one; cut them in quarters, peel and put them into a pan with a lump of butter, a small piece of cinna- mon, the peel of half a lemon, and a little pounded sugar. Stew all this together over a very brisk fire, but do not allow them to burn; when the apples are nearly done, take them off the fire, mix them with half a pot of apricot marmalade, and then put them into the mould, which you will previously have arranged, with thin slices of bread dipped in melted butter; cover apples with similar slices of bread, and bake the charlotte in a moder- ate oven of a fine rich brown; serve very hot and crisp. The mould should be rubbed all over with clarified but- ter, and the slices of bread-crumb may be cut in any shape you please, but the neatest way is with a plain round cutter; dip each piece in melted butter, and lay them in the mould with the edge of one just resting on the other piece like fishes' scales. Take care that the bread is not cut too thick, and bake it very crisp. 596. CALF'S-FOOT JELLY. Put six calves' feet into six quarts of water, set them on the fire, and boil eight hours, when it should be reduced to four quarts; strain and carefully remove all the fat; whisk up twelve whites of eggs with a pound and a half of coarsely-pounded sugar, the juice of ten lemons and the peel of two, and a small stick of cinnamon; add the stock from the calves' feet to this while warm, boil it up for a quarter of an hour, then put it in half a pint of PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 219 of champagne, a little melted isinglass, and the juice of two lemons. Mix well together, and pass it through a double tammy; shake it well, and pour it into china cups; set them in three pounds of ice which you have previously beaten fine and placed in a convenient vessel that will hold eight or nine cups; cover them with a sheet of paper, and leave them to get firm. When ready, wipe the cups and dish them.' The jelly should not be too stiff, but delicate and shaking. If, however, it is wished to set it in a mould, more isinglass must be added or it will fall. Other flowers may be used in the same way, and maraschino noyeau, etc., substituted for champagne. 601. PINE-APPLE JELLY. Cut the best part of a pine-apple either in slices or rounds, rather thicker but of the size of a crown-piece; boil these and the rind in clarified sugar, with the juice of two lemons, then add some ready prepared isinglass; strain the whole through a jelly-bag, and pour the jelly into the mould to the depth of a quarter of an inch, then set the mould on the ice to freeze. When the jelly is firm lay slices of the best part of the pine- apple, in any design you please (taking care that they are dry), on the jelly, sticking them together with a little more jelly, which you must allow to set on the ice before filling the mould. As soon as this is firm fill it up, and surround the mould with ice. 602. CHERRY-JELLY IN MOULDS. Boil Morello cherries till they come to a pulp, which will be in about twenty minutes; strain them through a 220 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTUY, ETC. jelly-bag; bottle and cork it till wanted for use, then heat as much as you require, sweeten to taste, and add an ounce and a half of melted isinglass. Strain through a jelly-bag into a mould, and set it in a cool place or on the ice till wanted to serve. 603. ORANGE-JELLY. Take twelve oranges; cut each in two; squeeze them through a silk sieve into a dish; rub the peel of three of the oranges off on a lump of sugar, and scrape off all the yellow part, which gives the jelly a fine flavour; break half a pound of sugar into small pieces; put it in a pan; beat the white of half an egg up with water till it gets white, and add it to the sugar; let it reduce till it begins to bubble, then pour in the juice of the oranges. The heat of the sugar will clarify the jelly. Do not let it boil, but as soon as you perceive a yellow scum, skim the jelly, and pour it through a jelly-bag. Boil an ounce of isinglass in three-quarters of a pint of water for two hours, and when the jelly is nearly cold mix it with it. When the jelly is cold, but not before, pour it into a mould to set. Lemon-jelly is made in the same way, but requires rather more sugar. 604. ORANGE SPONGE JELLY. Dissolve two ounces of isinglass in one pint of water, and strain it through a sieve; add the juice of two China oranges, four Seville oranges, and one lemon, with about half a pound of fine sugar; whisk it till it looks like a sponge, put it into a mould, and when set turn it out. PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTEY, ETC. 223 sweeten it to taste; set it over a slow fire in a saucepan, and keep stirring till it boils; strain through a sieve, and stir again till it is cold to prevent its getting lumpy; add to it a glass of madeira, then beat the whites of the six eggs very light, and stir them in. Put it in a mould, and set it in a cool place or on the ice till it is served. 611. DUTCH CREAM. Break ten yolks of eggs into a stew-pan, with four glasses of white wine, a little cinnamon and lemon-peel; stir it over a slow fire till it becomes thick; have ready melted half an ounce of isinglass and a pint of cream, well whipt. Mix the isinglass and eggs together, and stir them round till quite cold; then add the cream, and put the whole in a mould to set on the ice or in a cool place. 612. ITALIAN CREAM. Take a pint of thick fresh cream; whip it well; add half a handful of fine sugar, the juice of half a lemon, and three tablespoonfuls of madeira; dissolve half an ounce of isinglass in a little water, and strain it into the cream, then put it in your mould. A little less isinglass in winter will be sufficient. 613. PLOMBIERE. Take one pound of sweet almonds and four ounces of bitter; pound them fine together, and put them into a stew-pan with one pound of fine lump sugar, a quart of single cream, and twelve yolks of eggs; turn on the fire 224 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. till thick, pass through a tammy, and when cold freeze like any other ice. Twenty minutes before serving work into it half a pot of apricot jam, and as you serve lay the rest of the jam on the top, or put it in the centre. It should be dished rough, not put in a mould. 614. QUEEN MAE'S PUDDING (COLD). Take one pint of cream, one ounce of isinglass, one ounce of mixed citron and lemon-peel, two ounces of preserved cherries, and sugar to taste; add half a wineglassful of brandy; mix well, pour it into a mould, and ice. 615. LEMON-CHEESE. Take a quart of cream just on the turn, rasp the rinds of two lemons, and squeeze their juice into the cream; whip with a whisk always the same way for about twenty minutes; take a sieve, on which lay a piece of fine muslin large enough to contain the whipped cream; pour the cream on to it, place the sieve on a hollow dish that the whey may run off, and let it stand twenty-four hours. You can sweeten it to taste while whipping. 616. PRESERVED PINE-APPLE CREAM. Take a teacupful of syrup of preserved pine-apple, and the juice of two lemons, two ounces of sugar, and four slices of pine-apple cut in small dice; mix with this an ounce of isinglass boiled for half an hour in half a pint of water; whisk all together till nearly cold, then add a quart of well- whisked cream; mix well, and put it into your mould, PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 225 which set on the ice or in a cool place. Ginger cream of preserved ginger may be made in th% same way. 617. ORANGE-CREAM. Boil the rind of a Seville orange very tender; beat it fine in a mortar; add to it a spoonful of the best brandy, the juice of a Seville orange, four ounces of loaf-sugar, and the yolks of four eggs; beat all together for ten minutes; then by degrees pour in a pint of boiling cream; beat it till it is cold; put it into custard cups or glasses; set them in a deep dish or pan of boiling water to stand till cold. If preferred in a mould, half an ounce of isinglass dissolved in a very little water must be added with the cream. This is excellent! 618. COFFEE-CREAM. Boil a calf's foot in a quart of water till it reduces to a pint of jelly, clear of sediment and fat; make a tea- cupful of very strong coffee, clear it with a bit of isinglass that it may be perfectly bright; pour it on the jelly, and add a pint of very good cream; sweeten to taste; give it one boil up, and pour it into your mould. 619. STRAWBERRY, EASPBERRY, OR CURRANT CREAM. If the fruit is fresh pulled, take equal weights of fruit and sugar; then clarify the sugar and put in the fruit; let them boil till the sugar has quite penetrated the fruit; when cold, take two or three spoonfuls of it and whisk it up with a pint of cream; then take some of the whole Q 226 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. fruit picked, and mix a few spoonfuls with the whisked cream ; stiffen with a little isinglass, and put it in a mould. 620. SACK-CREAM. Boil a pint of cream, the yolk of an egg well beaten, three spoonfuls of white wine, a little lemon-peel and sugar, over a gentle fire; stir it till it has the consistency of thick cream; then take it off, and continue stirring till cold. Serve in cups or glasses. 621. CRf.ME AU THE WERT. Boil a pint of cream and the same of milk, into which throw a pinch of salt and some sugar; when the cream boils, throw three spoonfuls of the best green tea into it; give it a boil; add the yolks of ten very fresh eggs; keep constantly stirring it on the fire till the cream becomes thick, but mind that the eggs are not over-done; then add some melted isinglass; pass it through a tammy, and put it in the mould, which set in ice. When you wish to make the cream more delicate, let it get cold, and before you put the isinglass in, set it in a vessel over ice, and whip it when quite frozen ; add some cold melted isinglass. This method requires less isinglass, and the cream is lighter. 622. ORANGE-FLOWER CREAM. Boil half a pint of cream with a handful of fresh orange- flowers, and let the cream cool; strain and mix with a pint of thick cream; keep whipping it over ice till it is quite thick; add half an ounce of melted isinglass; put it into a mould and surround it with ice. PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 227 623. MILLE FRUIT CREAM. Take a spoonful each of preserved strawberries, rasp- berries, apricots, currants, greengages, ginger, pine-apple, gooseberries, plums, and orange-peel cut small; add an ounce of isinglass boiled in half a pint of water for half an hour, and three ounces of sugar; whisk till nearly cold, then add a quart of cream whisked to a froth. Mix well and put in a mould, which surround with ice. 624. CARAMEL-CREAM. Take a quarter of a pound of lump-sugar; put it in a sugar-pan with three tablespoonfuls of water; set it on a stove fire till it becomes burnt brown and tastes rather bitter; have ready a quarter of a pint of boiling cream, which pour into the sugar; strain it through a fine sieve into a basin, and let it cool a little ; take six yolks of eggs and mix with the cream ; put it in a stew-pan over the fire, and whisk it till it becomes thick, but be sure it does not boil, otherwise it will curdle and spoil. Now put it back into the basin, and add warm as much melted isinglass as will make it stiff enough for a mould (about half an ounce). Stir it with a wooden spoon, or whisk till nearly cold; have ready a pint of whipt cream to mix with it; sweeten to taste; and immediately put it into the mould. 625. CLOUTED CREAM TO EAT WITH TARTs, Take four pints of new milk; set it on a clear fire, and stir it now and then ; whenever it begins to boil take it. 228 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. off, and put it into broad flat dishes to cool; stir it about in the dishes for some time after it is turned out of the pan; set it in a cool place and let it stand twenty-four hours. It is excellent to eat with all sorts of fruit tarts, and may be served with cream poured over it. 626. VELVET-CREAM. Take a little syrup, lemon, orange, or pine-apple; put two or three spoonfuls of it in the bottom of a dish; heat some new milk lukewarm; pour it on the syrup; put in as much rennet as will set it, and cover it over till ready. 627. To FREEZE ICES. Make them according to the following receipts; put them in the freezing-pots, cover them with the lid, and prepare the natural ice in the following manner:—Pound it small, and with about eight pounds of ice mix one pound of salt; bury the freezing-pots in this; then take the lids off them, and work the fruit or other ice in them with a wooden spattle, scraping it from the sides and mixing well till it is sufficiently frozen to hold together. If the ice is to be made in a shape, fill the mould quite full, shaking it so as to avoid air-holes; put it in the ice in the same manner, and let it stand half an hour. To turn it out, dip it in cold water, take off the ends of the mould, then dip it again, and gently touch it with a spoon, when it will come out. If it is to be served in china ice-pails, take it out with a spoon, arrange it in the pail, and put ice underneath. PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 229 628. To CLARIFY SUGAR FOR ICE. To three pounds of sugar add half a teaspoonful of the white of egg whisked together with a quart of water; when melted, let it boil, and skim it carefully. When no more scum rises, it is fit for use. 629. STRAWBERRY WATER-!CE FROM FRESH FRUIT. Pick the strawberries from their stalks and rub them through a sieve; then take fine pounded sugar and mix with the pulp till it is smooth and the thickness of cream; add a little lemon-juice to freshen it and give it more the flavour of fresh-picked strawberries. 630. PEACH WATER-ICE. Take fresh peaches and rub them through a hair-sieve; to whatever quantity of pulp you have add the same of clarified sugar, half as much water, and lemon-juice sufficient to make it as near the original flavour of the fruit as possible. 631. CHERRY WATER-!CE. Take good fresh Duke cherries, and pick them from their stalks; then pound them in a mortar and break the kernels; lay them on a sieve, drain the juice from the pulp; then add to the quantity of juice you have half as much water, pouring it over the pulp in the sieve to get out what juice may remain, and the same quantity of clari- fied sugar; pass the juice through the sieve again, and add a small quantity of lemon-juice. PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 231 a sieve; to a pint of the juice add the same quantity of syrup and half a pint of water; then freeze. 637. FRONTIGNAC GRAPE WATER-ICE. Squeeze out the juice of the grapes through a sieve, and to four spoonfuls of grape-syrup add half a pint of lemon- juice, a pint of clarified sugar-syrup, and half a pint of water; mix together and freeze. 638. PUNCH-ICE. Rub the rinds of two lemons off on sugar; take a pint of lemon-juice, the same of syrup, and half a pint of water; mix all together and freeze it hard; then add a teacup- ful of brandy and one of rum; mix well together, and then stir in the whites of six eggs whipped to a very stiff froth. 639. RED CURRANT WATER-!CE. Squeeze the currants through a sieve; to a pint of the juice add half a pint of syrup and a quarter of a pint of water. White and black currants may be made the same. 640. PLAIN ICE-CREAM. Take good thick fresh cream; sweeten it with a very little sugar; then put it in the freezing-pot; take a whisk and whisk it well together; freeze it in small oval shapes, like an egg or a plum, and serve to eat with strawberries or other fruit. 232 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTET, ETC. 641. COFFEE-ICE. Two ounces of the best whole coffee, four yolks of eggs, a quart of cream, and sugar to sweeten it to taste; mix all together, and set it on to boil; stir till nearly cold; when you take it off, pass it through a sieve, and freeze. The coffee-berry may be either roasted or green; if green the ice will look nearly white, which is usually pre- ferred. 642. GREEN TEA ICE-CREAM Is made as above, and with the same proportion of in- gredients. 643. BROWN BREAD ICE-CREAM. Cut brown bread in thin slices; dry it crisp before the fire, and sift it through a sieve; to a quart of plain ice- cream, made as above, add a teacupful of the bread- crumbs; mix well together, and freeze. 644. EATAFIA BISCUIT CREAM. Two ounces of ratafia, the yolks of two eggs, and a pint of cream; boil all together, pass through a sieve, and freeze. 645. CUSTARD ICE-CREAM. A quart of cream and five eggs, whisked together, with a little sugar; boil it, stirring all the time, with the rind of two lemons cut fine; strain it, stir till nearly cold, and freeze. The same mixture is very good served unfrozen in cups, as custard. PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 233 646. CHOCOLATE CREAM-!CE. Shred one cake of chocolate; dissolve it with three ounces of sugar, a quart of cream, and three yolks of eggs; boil, and then whisk till cold, and freeze. 647. PINE-APPLE CREAM-ICE. Grate one pound of fresh pine-apple; add half a pint of syrup, a pint and a half of cream, and the juice of two lemons; rub through a sieve; cut two slices of pine- apple into small dice; mix with it, and freeze. 648. PINE-APPLE JAM-ICE. To a pound of jam add a half a pint of good cream, and mix it together; rub it through a hair sieve, and add as much lemon-juice to it as will make it near the flavour of the fresh fruit. All jam-ices, such as straw- berry, raspberry, and apricot, may be made in the same way. 649. ORANGE-FLOWER CREAM-!CE. Chop an ounce of fresh candied orange-flowers fine; add three ounces of sugar, four yolks of eggs, one quart of cream, and two spoonfuls of orange-flower water; boil; take it off, and whisk till cold, then freeze. 650. CHINA ORANGE-CREAM. Kub the rinds of six oranges on sugar, and scrape it off; add the juice of two lemons, three ounces of sugar, and 234 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. a pint and a half of cream ; rub all together through a hair sieve, and freeze. Lemon may be made in the same way. 651. GINGER CREAM-ICE. Take four ounces of preserved ginger; cut it in small pieces; two spoonfuls of ginger syrup, four yolks of eggs, and a pint and a half of cream; let it boil, then whisk together till cold, then freeze. BAKING. BEEAD, BISCUITS, CAKES, ETC. 652. YORKSHIRE METHOD OF MAKING YEAST. One ounce of hops boiled in a gallon of water for twenty minutes; let it stand till lukewarm; mix gradually with this half a pound of flour, and cork it up for three days. Before using bruise a few potatoes very fine, stir them into the yeast, and set it before the fire to work for a few hours before it is to be used. A pint is suffi- cient for a stone of flour. When once this yeast is made, some of the old should always be kept to mix with the new, when it need only be corked up for thirty-six hours. 653. OTHER METHODS. Boil one pound of good flour, half a pound of brown sugar, and a little salt, in two gallons of water, for an hour; let it cool till it is lukewarm, then bottle, and cork it close. It will be fit for use in twenty-four hours. One pint is sufficient to make eighteen pounds of bread. 654. AN EXCELLENT YEAST. Boil five English pints of soft water; take a large break- fast-cupful of ground malt, miy it in a basin with a little of the boiling water, let it stand for a quarter of an hour, 236 BAKING. then put it into the pan with the rest of the water and two ounces of hops ; let it boil twenty minutes, strain it into a large jar, and add to it by degrees, that it may be well mixed, a pint of flour. Let it stand till it is about milk-warm, and then pour into it a bottle of yeast. Let it stand ten hours in a warm place, when it may be bottled and is fit for use. This yeast must not be kept in too cold a place. In making bread you must use at least two-thirds more than of common yeast. There cannot be a better method. 655. To CLARIFY YEAST. Take a quart of yeast; put it in two gallons of cold water; let it remain one night. By the next morning the yeast will have fallen to the bottom. Drain off the water, and any yeast that may be floating on the top. Your yeast will now be white and sweet. When it is to be used, mix about half a handful of bran with it, and then strain from the bran through a sieve into the flour you are going to make your bread of. This makes it perfectly sweet. 656. To MAKE FINE BREAD OR EOLLS. To three pounds of flour add one pint of warm milk and a quarter of a pint of clarified yeast; stir it thinly into part of the flour, and leave it all night. Next morning warm another pint of milk; add it to the flour and yeast, stir it round a few times, and then work in lightly the rest of the flour; let it remain half an hour, then make up your rolls. Let them rise till they are quite light, and bake in a hot oven. This paste for loaf-bread should be made somewhat stiffer than for rolls. BAKING. 237 657. EXCELLENT BREAD. Fourteen pounds of flour, four eggs, a pint of yeast, and enough lukewarm milk to make it into a dough the thickness of hasty pudding; leave it two hours to rise; sift over it some fine salt; work enough flour into it to make the dough of a proper consistence; make into loaves, and bake in a quick oven. 658. A PLAIN LOAF OF BREAD. Half a peck of the best seconds flour, one teaspoonful of salt, three tablespoonfuls of yeast, and a pint and a half of water, allowed to rise, and baked, makes one good large loaf of bread. 659. To MAKE BROWN BREAD. Take thirty pounds of flour and forty pounds of bran, or seventy pounds of flour only once bolted or sifted, so that merely the coarser bran is removed. Into forty-two pounds of this mix a quart of good thick yeast previously strained through a hair sieve (if thin it will require more); then stir in with a spoon a sufficient quantity of luke- warm water to make a proper dough, not too stiff. It makes two loaves more, and still better bread, if you use bran-water instead of plain water. It is made by boil- ing five pounds of coarse bran in rather more than four gallons of water, so that when boiled perfectly smooth you have three gallons and three quarts clear bran-water. Leave the dough to stand two hours; if it does not rise sufficiently, add two teaspoonfuls of coarse brown sugar. When it has risen, add a pint of salt dissolved in plain 238 BAKING, or bran water, according as you have made your bread (this and the bran water must both be strained), and the rest of the flour. Work it well for an hour—the coarser the flour the more working it requires; cover it up, and leave it to stand at least two hours more. Next lay it on a table (it is better if near the fire), and alternately work it with your hands and roll it out with a rolling- pin for a little while; then shape it into two round pieces for loaves of this shape. Wet the sides that are to be joined with a little water, and make a hollow with the hand in the upper part. See that the oven is properly cleaned and heated, and put the bread in, where it should remain about two hours. Keep the oven closed otherwise the bread will crack. 660. VERY GOOD BREAD. Take a peck of the best flour, two quarts of milk and water, mixed half-and-half, together with a teacupful of yeast and a little salt; make a hole in the flour; pour it in, and stir all well up with a wooden spoon; set it in a warm place, and let it stand till you think it has suffi- ciently risen, which is usually in from two to three hours; then work it up lightly, and let it stand two minutes before you put it in the oven; bake according to your judgment, but it generally takes an hour and a half. 661. AERATED BREAD. One pound of flour, ninety drops of muriatic acid, seventy-five grains of carbonate of soda, seventy grains of salt, and half a tumbler of water; mix the salt and BAKING. 239 soda together; stir the flour, in small quantities at a time, slowly and thoroughly into the salt and soda; then add the water and acid, kneading as quickly as possible together (half a minute should do it); then put it at once into the oven. 662. FRENCH BOLLS. Take a quarter of a peck of flour, a teacupful of yeast, as much warm milk, with an ounce of butter in it, as will mix them not very stiff; add one egg. Cover the dough with a clean flannel, and let it stand to rise; when risen, .if for making smooth French rolls, add an ounce more butter; if for rasped ones, use as it is; bake them on a tin in a quick oven, leaving the door open till they are brown on one side, then turn them, and close the oven- door (a quarter of an hour will do them). They should be rasped immediately, or they will turn soft. The same dough is good for other rolls, and if a little sugar is added, and currants or carroway seeds, makes excellent buns. 663. SALLY LUNNS. Two pounds of flour, two ounces of butter, and one ounce of sugar; rub them well together; take four tablespoon- fuls of yeast, mixed with a little warm water; set the yeast to rise, and when it rises a little, beat up with it a gill of cream and some milk (or all milk, if new, will do), and the yolks of four eggs. Warm this a little; add to it the dough, and work it all together; the dough must not be quite so stiff as bread dough. Mould it with your hands in small round cakes; lay them on an iron baking-plate to rise, in a warm place; bake them in not 240 BAKING. too hot an oven. They will take about an hour, and are eaten cut open and buttered. After they are buttered they should be closed and returned to the oven for a minute or two. 664. BATH CAKES. Rub half a pound of butter into a pound of flour; add a spoonful of good yeast; and with some warm cream work all into a light paste; set it by the fire to rise. When you make them up, work in four ounces of carraway seeds, keeping some to strew on the tops. Make them in round cakes the size of a bun. Bake them on tins, and serve hot. 665. CHELTENHAM CAKES. Six pounds of flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, the yolks of two eggs, and a teacupful of yeast; miy all together with some warm milk; set it to rise for an hour; make into round cakes ; let them rise again; and bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour. 666. BREAKFAST CAKES. A pint of flour, two eggs, one spoonful of yeast, and as much cream as will mix it up light; make it up into cakes; let them rise an hour, and bake in a moderate oven. 667. WHIGS. Rub a quarter of a pound of butter into a pound and a half of flour, very fine; beat three eggs together with two spoonfuls of yeast; add a pint of milk; mix well, and strain through a sieve on to the flour; beat all together BAKING. 241 till quite smooth; cover it over, and let it stand three hours at a little distance from the fire; then stir in half a pound of sugar and half a pound of currants ; cover it over again, and let it stand an hour; bake them in tins, which fill half full, and stand them before the fire for an hour to rise. A quarter of an hour in a quick oven is sufficient to bake them. C68. BUNS. Mix a quarter of a pound of butter with a pound of flour; beat up the yolks and whites of two eggs in half a pint of new milk, and add a quarter of a pound of sugar and a tablespoonful of yeast; mix this with the flour, and work all well together; drop it out of a large spoon in a round form on tin plates, and when it has risen, bake. This quantity should be sufficient to make eight buns. /Th 669. BARN BREAK (IRISH). e dough of half a quartern loaf, two ounces of carra- way seeds, six ounces of sugar, four eggs, and a quarter of a pound of butter; work it all up together with as much flour as will make it a fit consistency to bake; this will take half an hour to do; make it into a round cake or loaf, and bake. 670. MUFFINS, Take four pounds of fine flour, two pints of warm milk, two eggs well beaten, a little salt, and four spoonfuls of new yeast; mix all together, and beat it up well with your hand; set it before the fire to rise; make the R 242 BAKING. muffins round with the bottom of a plate well floured; flour them on both side's, and bake on an iron plate in the oven. 671. ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR MUFFINS. One pound of flour, two tablespoonfuls of yeast, mixed with as much warm water as together will fill a teacup; set it up to rise and fall; then beat it to a thick batter till it draws out as you take it up. Make the muffins round with a knife and spoon; roll them well in flour; let them lie a few minutes, and bake on an iron plate. When they are quite done they will rattle on being knocked. 672. CRUMPETS. A. pound and a half of flour, three pints of milk, two spoonfuls of yeast, two fresh eggs; mix the milk just warm with it; beat the whole into a batter; let it stand till it rises in blisters to the top, and bake on a polished iron baking-sheet with a rim to it. 673. CRINGLES. Rub a quarter of a pound of butter in one pound of flour and two ounces of sugar; take half the dough, and set it to rise, with two spoonfuls of yeast and a quarter of a pint of milk; when risen add the rest of the dough to it, with two eggs and a quarter of a pint more milk; make it up into a light dough; roll it out the thickness of a finger; twist it up in the shape of figures of eight, rings, or fingers; let them rise on the tins before baking; when done brush them with sugar dissolved in milk, and sprinkle a few small bits of sugar on the top. BAKING. 243 674. GERMAN ROLLS. Half a peck of the finest flour, and as much new milk as will make it into dough; mix it with half a pint of yeast and half an ounce of sugar, and set it to rise; when risen add an ounce of butter melted, and two eggs beaten up in it; make the dough into rolls; put them to rise in a warm place, and bake on buttered tins in a brisk oven for twenty minutes. 675. RUSKS. One pound of flour, one ounce of butter, one ounce of sugar, one egg, four spoonfuls of yeast, and as much warm milk as will make the whole into dough; roll it out, and cut it into cakes the size you wish; set them before the fire a quarter of an hour before you bake; put them into the oven, and when they are just coloured take them out and split them; return them to the oven, and bake till they are quite brown. 676. FRENCH RUSKS. Take a clean copper pan, and break into it a pound weight of yolks of eggs; add a pound and a half of pounded sugar, and with a large wooden spoon stir them well together for ten minutes; to this put two pounds of flour and two handfuls of carraway seeds, and mix well; roll out the paste in a roll about fourteen inches long, and six or seven thick; lay three sheets of paper on a baking-plate, put the roll of paste on it, and flat it down with your hand. It should be an inch thick in the middle, and thin at the edges. Do not bake them too BAKING. 245 quarter of a pound of butter, a pint of milk, and two tablespoonfuls of yeast; let it rise like ordinary bread, and bake about an hour in a moderate oven. Currants may be used instead of carraway seeds. 680. A DIET LOAF. Beat a pound of eggs with a pound of sifted sugar till it looks quite thick and white; then add a little ginger and cinnamon, powdered, some carraway seeds, and one pound of dried flour; butter a mould, and bake it. 681. A GINGERBREAD LOAF. To a pint of treacle add six eggs well beat up, two pounds of flour, and twelve ounces of fresh butter beat to a cream; half a pound of brown sugar, half a pound of orange-peel cut into small pieces, two ounces of ground ginger, and one of ground cloves; mix all these ingre- dients together, and the more it is beat up the lighter it will be. When ready for the oven put it into a tin shape, with buttered paper round the loaf; do not allow the oven to be too hot. It should be baked about an hour. To know if it is thoroughly done put a knife into the cake; if it comes out clean it is done enough. Leave it in the mould till cold. 682. NUREMBURG GINGERBREAD. Beat the whites and yolks of eight eggs, together with one pound of finely-sifted sugar, for half an hour; mix with this the peel of a lemon cut very thin, and minced fine, and a tablespoonful of ground spices in the pro- portion of two parts of cinnamon and one part each of BAKING. 247 of treacle; make it into a stiff paste, and form into nuts or little cakes; bake on paper in a slack oven till quite crisp. The quantity of spices may be increased if liked. They are excellent. 686. GINGER CAKES. Half a pound of flour, three ounces of Lisbon sugar, three ounces of butter, half an ounce of ginger, and the yolks of two eggs mixed with either cream or milk; then dropped on tins or paper and baked in a slack oven. 687. EICE CAKE. Beat twelve yolks and six whites of .eggs with the grated peel of two lemons; mix one pound of ground rice, eight ounces of flour, and one pound of fine-sifted sugar; beat it up with the eggs by degrees for an hour, with a wooden spoon; butter a pan well, and put it in at the mouth of the oven, which should be a gentle one. An hour and a half will bake it. 688. OAT CAKES. A quarter of a pound of butter to two pounds of oat- meal, then add as much water as will just work them together, but the less the better, and hot water is best; roll them out with a rolling-pin as tliin as possible. One side should be done on the girdle and the other on the toaster. Oat cakes may also be made without any butter, mixed with hot water, and a pinch of salt added. As little water should always be used as possible, for it makes them flinty. 248 BAKING. 689. BARLEY-MEAL SCONES. Put a pan full of milk on the fire, and when it boils stir in barley-flour till it is as thick as possible; add a little salt, and roll them out as thin as you can; bake them on the girdle, but do not keep them too long on it as it makes them tough. 690. YORKSHIRE CAKES. Three pounds of flour, a pint and a half of warm milk, four spoonfuls of yeast, and three eggs; beat the whole well together, and let it rise; then form the cakes round; place them on the baking-tins and let them rise again before putting them in the oven, which must be of a moderate heat. Five ounces of butter may be warmed with the milk and added if preferred. 691. BALLOON CAKES. Mix two tablespoonfuls of yeast with four of cream; add to it six of flour ;. make it into a light dough; set it to rise in a warm place; roll it out very thin; cut it into round cakes and bake on tins for four minutes. 692. SAVOY BISCUIT OR CAKE. Half a pound of very fine dry flour, one pound of dry pounded sugar, lourteen very fresh eggs, rasp over the sugar the peel of two oranges or lemons; put the sugar again to dry ; break the eggs, separating the yolks from the whites. Be very careful to see the eggs are fresh, as one bad one would spoil all. Put the sugar with the yolks, and beat them together with a wooden spoon; BAKING. 249 beat the whites to a firm froth, then mix with the yolks, and sift the flour through a hair sieve over them. Mix gently with the whip. Butter a mould, and powder it over with sugar; put the biscuit in the mould—a little at a time, to prevent its blistering at the top ; put some ashes on a baking-dish, and put the mould over this in the oven. The heat must be moderate. About an hour is sufficient, but be careful not to remove it till it is done. 693. SPONGE-CAKE. To one pound of flour finely sifted take twelve good fresh eggs; break the eggs into a pan, whisk them over a cool stove till milk-warm; whisk for about a quarter of an hour, or till they are quite thick and light; then stir in by degrees the flour, but not till the eggs are cold; add the grate of two lemon peels; bake in whatever shape or shapes you please, in a quick oven. 694. SUGAR BISCUIT. One pound of eggs, one of sugar, and one of flour. The sugar must be sifted fine, and mixed carefully with the eggs; then stir in the flour, previously well dried ; drop them in rounds on paper, bake, and glaze on the top with sugar. 695. NAPLES BISCUITS. One pound and a half of Lisbon sugar put into a pan with three-quarters of a pint of water and a small cupful of orange-flower water. Boil the sugar with the water till quite melted, then break twelve eggs, yolks and 250 BAKING. whites together, and whisk them well together. Now pour the Lisbon syrup, boiling hot, in with the eggs, whisking all the time as fas.t as you can, and continue till it is cold and set. Then mix in as lightly as possible one pound and a half of flour; lay two sheets of paper on the baking-plate; make the edges stand up about an inch and a half high; pour the batter in, sift powdered sugar over, and put it the oven, but do not leave it a minute for fear it should burn. When baked, take it out in the paper; let it stand till cold; then wet the paper till it comes off with ease, and cut the cake what shape and size you like. It may also be baked in tins. GOG. BISCUITS A. LA CUILLIERE Are made of the same mixture as Savoy biscuits. Use a silver teaspoon to shape them ; fill the spoon, and drop the batter on paper, pulling it along so as to make it about three inches long and half an inch wide; with your fingers spread it a little wider at both ends than in the middle; sift sugar over them, and bake in a moderate oven. When done cut them hot off the paper. 697. LITTLE SHORT-CAKES. Rub into a pound of dried flour four ounces of butter, four ounces of pounded sugar, one egg, and a spoonful or two of thin cream to make it into a paste; roll them out thin, and cut with a wine-glass into round cakes. Currants or carraways may be added to them. LIQUEURS, CUPS, &c. 702. ORANGE BRANDY. Take ten fine China oranges, two pounds of the finest white sugar, a little cinnamon, and one gallon of best pale brandy; put all into a stone jar and stir gently every day with a large wooden spoon, so as not to bruise the oranges, for six weeks; then filter through a layer of cotton wool covered with a piece of fine flannel, which must be well scalded, and bottle in pint bottles. 703. CURA^OA. Two quarts of brandy to a pound and a half of brown sugar-candy, and an ounce and a half of fresh Seville orange-peel pared as clean from any white as possible; let them infuse six weeks in an earthen jar, stirring every two or three days till the sugar-candy is dissolved; filter through blotting-paper, and bottle. 704. LEMON LIQUEUR. Pour four bottles of the best brandy into an earthen jar with a cover, and add to it a pound and a half of fine sugar pounded, the juice of sixteen lemons, and the peel of the same, cut clean from the white; pour on this two quarts of milk boiling hot; stir well together, and LIQUEURS, CUPS, ETC. 253 let it stand in the jar, covered, for eight days, repeating the stirring every day; filter and bottle it. 705. CHERRY BRANDY. Pick a stone of black cherries clean from their stalks and bruise them well, then strain the juice through a flannel bag; pound the stones till they are all broke, and put them into a stone jar; pour over them brandy enough to cover them, and set it in a pan of water on the fire till it boils, then strain it also through the bag; pour a little boiling water over the pulp of the fruit; strain it off, and add to it two pounds of lump-sugar; boil and skim it, and when cold add it to the juice. The juice of two quarts of raspberries added to it is also an im-. provement. Make it as strong with brandy as you like, and put the whole into a stone jar; shake it every now and then for three or four days; let it settle four more, when it is fit to rack and bottle, and then for immediate use. Another method is to stone twenty pounds of black cherries, bruise the stones in a mortar, and put them and the cherries into two gallons of the best brandy in an earthen jar; let it stand forty days well covered, then rack it off, and bottle. Morello cherries are also excellent for making cherry brandy. 706. CURRANT BRANDY. Gather black currants when the sun is hot; pick them clean from the stalks; put them into a stone jar, and to every six pounds of fruit add a pound of fine sugar pounded and sifted; fill the jar up with brandy; cork it 254 LIQUECTRS, CUPS, ETC. up close for three or four weeks; shake the jar once or twice a-day, then strain and bottle it. 707. RATAFIA D'ABRICOTS. Take twenty-five apricots cut into pieces; break the stones; take out the kernels; peel, and crush them in a mortar; put all together into a jar with half a pound of sugar, eight cloves, some cinnamon, and a quart of brandy; stop the jar very close; let it infuse three weeks; shake it very often; pass through a straining-bag, and bottle. Peaches are very good done in the same manner. 708. NOYEAU. Take a handful of the young sprouts of the peach-tree; pour over them two quarts of brandy; let it stand three days to extract the fine flavour of the leaves, then take them out and add to the brandy two quarts of clarified sugar, and u quarter of a pound of bitter almonds, blanched and cut small; let it stand six weeks, then strain and bottle. Another method is to beat all to- gether in a mortar half a pound of apricot kernels with the skins on, two drachms of cinnamon, six cloves, two ounces of coriander seed, and four pounds of the finest- sugar; infuse all this in four quarts of the best brandy in an earthen jar with a narrow mouth, not too closely corked, for a month, often shaken, and exposed as much to the sun as possible; then strain and bottle. These liqueurs are very useful for flavouring jellies, creams, etc. , LIQUEURS, CUPS, ETC. 255 709. EATAFIA DE FRAMBOISES. Take six pounds of raspberries ; pick them, and put them in a jar with twelve quarts of brandy, two drachms of cinnamon, and one of mace bruised; dissolve three pounds of sugar in three quarts of water; add this to the rest; mix, and leave it for fifteen days to infuse, shaking it from time to time; pass it through a bag, and bottle it. 710. RATAFIA DE FLEURS D'ORANGE. Put twelve ounces of fresh orange-flowers into a stone bottle or jar with twelve quarts of the best brandy ; cork it well, and leave it to infuse for two days. Take three pounds and a half of sugar, dissolve it in two and a half pints of water; drain the orange-flowers from the brandy, and mix the infusion with the sugar; pass it through a bag, filter through paper, and bottle it. 711. RATAFIA DBS QUATRE FRUITS. Take five pounds each of morello and duke cherries, the same quantity of currants and of raspberries; all must be ripe, but particularly the cherries; break them all up separately, and mix them in an earthen pan ; leave them in this, stirring them occasionally for five hours; after that press them through a fine sieve, and to every pint of juice allow a pint of brandy and half a pound of sugar; mix well together, and put it in a stone bottle; let it stand for a month, stirring or shaking very often; 256 LIQUEURS, CUPS, ETC. then let it clear, and draw off gently all the liquid while it runs clear; pass the remainder through a bag till it also is clear; add it to the other, and bottle. 712. CIDER CUP. Cut the peel of a lemon very thin; put it into a cupful of boiling water; add a few lumps of sugar, a pint of sherry, madeira, or malaga, and two bottles of cider, a sprig or two of borage, and some cucumber; to be well iced. 713. CIDER CUP. A bottle of cider, two glasses of brandy, half a pint of water; add to it some sprigs of borage, balm, a small bit of verbena, some slices of cucumber, and sugar to taste; then ice. Some add a quarter of a pint of green tea. 714. BEER CUP. A quart of beer or ale, a glass of brandy, a spoonful of brown sugar, some borage and burnet, the peel of a lemon, a little nutmeg, and a few slices of apple. 715. CLARET CUP. One bottle claret, one pint of spring water, two glasses of sherry, a few sprigs of balm, burnet, borage, and one of verbena, the peel of a lemon, and a little sugar; let the whole stand in a jug two hours; strain off clear, and ice it for four hours. A cucumber sliced is also a very good addition. LIQUEURS, CUPS, ETC. 257 716. CLARET CUP. One bottle of light claret, one glass of brandy, one lemon peeled thin, half a pint of water, a little sugar, a sprig or two of borage, and some slices of cucumber; to be well iced. Another cup, which is very light and good, is, one bottle of claret, one of soda-water, a little sugar, and a slice or two of cucumber with the peel left on. 717. NUREMBURG PUNCH. Strain through a fine sieve, upon three-quarters of a pound of loaf-sugar, the juice of two good-sized oranges; add a little of the rind, cut very thin; pour upon this a quart of boiling water, the third part of a quart of good old Batavian arrack, and a bottle of hot but not boiling red or white French wine—the former is perhaps the best. Stir all well together, and taste the result. 718. COLD PUNCH. Rum and brandy, of each three-quarters of a pint, the peel of six lemons steeped four hours, the juice of one with sherry enough to make it up to a pint; pour all this on one pound of white sugar; add three pints of cold water and one pint of boiling milk;—the whole to be well mixed, strained through a jelly-bag, bottled, and iced. It keeps well, and is rather the better for it, but may be used the same day. 719. PUNCH A LA ROMAINE. Five pounds of the best lump-sugar, two pints of the clearest spring water, the juice of eight oranges and five s LIQUEUftS, CUPS, ETC. 259 723. PRINCE REGENT'S PUNCH. X Take half a pint of boiling water, to which add the peel of half a lemon cut very thin, and about two ounces of double-refined sugar; let this stand a few minutes, then put in a bottle of dry champagne and a gill of the best arrack; mix the whole well together, and ice for an hour before it is required. It should not be taken out of the ice for more than five minutes before it is used, and then should be kept in a cool place. 724. BRANDY PUNCH. Half a pint of water, the peel of two lemons cut very thin, three-quarters of a pound of fine lump-sugar, a little cinnamon, nutmeg, and mace, two or three cloves; let them simmer till the water tastes strong enough of the spices; strain, and add a bottle of the best brandy and the juice of two lemons; make it very hot; pour it into a bowl, and set fire to it; let it burn five minutes, and serve. 725. SABENGOU. The yolks of five eggs, five ounces of sugar, a breakfast- cupful of sherry, half a wine-glassful of brandy; beat the eggs and sugar well together before adding the brandy and sherry; then put the whole into a pan and whisk it well over the fire till it boils; take it off the fire at once, and drink it hot. 726. MULLED WINE. Boil any spices you like in water until the flavour is 260 LIQUEURS, CUPS, ETC. extracted; add an equal quantity of port wine with sugar, lemon-peel, and nutmeg to taste. 727. GINGER WINE. To ten gallons of water add thirty pounds of loaf-sugar; boil and skim it for half an hour; when cold add a little yeast, and put it into a cask, adding for every gallon four ounces of bruised ginger, the juice and rind of two lemons, and twelve pounds of raisins chopped very small; stir all this well together for three or four days; when it has done working add ten quarts of good brandy; stop the cask up close; let it stand three months, when it will be ready for bottling.' 728. ANOTHER. To ten gallons of water put three-quarters of a pound of the best ginger, two dozen lemons, nine pounds of sugar, and two gallons of the best brandy. The peel of only one dozen of the lemons is to be used. Put all this in a cask; shake or stir it frequently for three days, then bung it up; let it stand for six weeks, and then bottle it. 729. CURRANT WINE. To every gallon of water add two quarts of currant-juice, and to each gallon of this liquor three pounds of sugar. Put it into a cask, and allow it to stand three weeks to ferment, then take it out and rinse the cask well with cold water; add a quarter of a pound more sugar to every gallon of the wine, and at the same time to every six gallons an ounce of isinglass. Put it back in the LIQUEURS, CUPS, ETC. 261 cask to work for three weeks more, then add to every six gallons of wine one quart of good brandy, and close up the cask; it should stand at least six months before it is bottled. If made with white currants, it closely resembles champagne, and a pint more juice to the same quantity of water should be used. The currants should be picked clean from the stalks, slightly bruised, so as not to break the seeds, and the juice strained through a hair sieve. This is an excellent receipt. 730. GREEN GOOSEBERRY WINE. Pick from the stalks and bruise the gooseberries, and to every pound of them add one quart of water; let it stand three days, stirring twice a-day; then strain it; and to every gallon of juice put three pounds of loaf-sugar; barrel it, and to every five gallons of the wine allow a bottle of brandy and a piece of isinglass; bung the cask, and in six months, if the sweetness is gone off, but longer if not, bottle it. 731. EASPBERRY VINEGAR. Mash two quarts of raspberries; put them in a dish, and cover them with white wine vinegar; let them stand twelve hours or more, then run the juice through a jelly- bag; to each pint allow two pounds of sugar, which you have previously pounded, melted in a little water, and clarified with the whites of four eggs. When it boils, skim it well, and add it to the juice. Let the whole boil half an hour, and when cold, bottle; cork, seal it over, and keep in a cool dry place. 262 LIQUEURS, CUPS, ETC. 732. RECEIPTS FOR GINGER BEER. To ten gallons of water put twelve and a half pounds of lump-sugar and three-quarters of a pound of ginger, broken in a mortar; set this on to boil for twenty minutes with the whites of ten eggs, and skim it well during the time; then pour it into a tub to cool, and add to it the thin rind of twelve lemons; then cut all the white part off the twelve lemons, slice them, put them into a barrel, and when the beer is cold, pour it over them; add two spoon- fuls of yeast; let the barrel stand in a cool place, and when the beer has done working put in a little isinglass to clear it; bung it up, and in a few days it is ready for bottling, and fit to drink in a week afterwards. 733. ANOTHER. To five gallons of water add seven and a half pounds of lump-sugar and five ounces of ginger; boil the whole one hour; peel six lemons very thin, and squeeze the juice over it; add this to the liquor when cold; spread half a teaspoonful of yeast on a toast; put it into a cask with the beer, and let it stand in a cool place twenty-four hours; then stop the barrel close, first removing the toast; in six weeks it will be ready to bottle, and in a fortnight after to drink. The bottles should stand on end. 734. GINGER POP. One pound of loaf-sugar, one ounce of cream of tartar, one ounce of ground ginger, one gallon of boiling water; mix together; when nearly cold add one spoonful of yeast; strain and bottle it; tie the corks down, and in six hours it is fit for use. LIQUEURS, CUPS, ETC. 2C3 735. WHITE SPRUCE BEER. To ten gallons of water put eight pounds of lump-sugar; boil them together for half an hour; skin it well all the time; pare twelve lemons as thin as possible; pour the boiling water on the rind; cover it up and let it stand till cold; then squeeze in the juice of the twelve lemons; now mix well into it three bottles or pots of essence of spruce and half a pint of good yeast; put it into a cask and let it work four days, taking care to fill it up as it works over (for which purpose you must keep a little back when filling the barrel); at the end of four days draw off a little; dissolve an ounce of isinglass, and put it into the barrel; stir it up well with a stick; bung it close; let it stand a few days to fine, and bottle it off. 736. GINGER BEER MADE WITH MOLASSES. To ten quarts of water add a pint and a half of molasses and four ounces of ground ginger; put the ginger in a pitcher and fill it with boiling water; let it stand twenty- four hours; then mix the molasses and ginger together, and add as much boiling water as will dissolve the molasses; stir the whole well together, and put it in the cask; when the cask is half full add a pint of yeast; then fill it up to the top; let it stand six days, then bottle it, and in eight more it will be fit to drink. 737. HERB ALE. Take three pounds of water-cresses, twenty ounces of dandelion roots, twelve ounces of juniper berries, and twenty-four drops of wormwood; mince all well together 266 PICKLING AND PRESERVING. they must be cleaned by pouring boiling vinegar over them; take them out, drain, and let them lie a night; then put them into the pickle, and tie the jar or bottle down with a bladder. If, after some months, you find there is not sufficient vinegar, pour off the pickle, and boil it up again with a quart of plain and a pint of Chili vinegar, adding another ounce of mustard-seed. These receipts are for a large quantity; but if smaller, the same proportions must be observed. 740. PICKLE FOE HAM OR TONGUES. Boil twenty pounds of salt in two gallons of water, skimming it well; then add one pound of saltpetre, three pounds of sugar, one ounce of cloves, the same each of mace and allspice, two ounces of whole pepper, garlic, shallots, thyme, and bay-leaves; boil it for a quarter of an hour, then put it by to cool; when cold pour into oval crocks ready to receive the tongues or ham. The tongues should be well cleaned before putting them in by rubbing them with common salt, and laying them on a sloping board to drain for a night. This is a very good receipt. 741. HAMBURGH PICKLE. Four gallons of water, six ounces of common salt, four ounces of saltpetre, eight ounces of brown sugar; boil it well and strain it. When cold you may put in beef, mutton, pork, or tongues. Mind that the meat is covered with the brine; and in nine or ten days it will be fit for use, but it will keep in the pickle quite good 268 PICKLING AND PRESERVING. ascertained by dipping a stick in cold water, then in the sugar, and again in the water, when the sugar which ad- heres should slip off and crack between the fingers. One minute's more boiling makes it caramel, when the pan should be taken off the fire, and stood to cool for a minute in water; if allowed to boil longer, the sugar becomes burnt, and is unfit for use. 744. DRIED FRUITS. Take fresh-gathered peaches; cut out the kernels; put them on a tin in the oven just as the bread comes out; when about half-done take them out, flatten them, and replace them till done sufficiently. Plums may be done in the same way, choosing those that fall from the trees. Apricots the same as peaches. Pears should be peeled, taking care to leave on the stalks; then put them with the peel in a large pan full of water, boil them till they begin to soften, and then dry in the oven as the others. 745. To PRESERVE CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIES. Have ready some perfectly dry clean bottles; cut the currants from the larger stalks, and drop them gently into the bottle ; to each bottle allow a quarter of a pound of pounded sugar; tie bladder over the bottles ; set them in a saucepan up to the neck in water, and let them boil half an hour, and remain in the water all night. Goose- berries the same: keep them in a cool place. Almost all fruit and young peas may be preserved in the same way. The bottles are better if kept in sand with the cork downwards: they should be carefully corked and rosined. PICKLING AND PRESERVING. 269 746. To PRESERVE PLUMS FOR TARTS. Put the plums into a narrow-mouthed stone jar, and to every twelve pounds of plums allow seven pounds of raw sugar; strew it among the plums as you put them in the jar; tie up the mouth of the jar with several folds of paper, put them in a cool oven, and let them stand till the sugar has thoroughly penetrated the fruit, when they will be done enough, and the bottles must be corked close, and tied over with bladder. 747. To PRESERVE CUCUMBERS. Lay a dozen large green cucumbers in a pickle of salt and water for two days; then take them out and put them in plenty of fresh water for other two days, with a plate on the top of them to keep them down. Cover the bottom of a pan with vine leaves (cabbage will do), lay the cucumbers on them and cover with more leaves; set the pan on the fire and give them a scald; take the pan off, and let them stand till almost cold; repeat the scalding and cooling till the cucumbers begin to look green, then take them out, drain them, put them in a pan with water and leaves, and boil them three minutes; take them out carefully; make a slit in the flat side with the end of a teaspoon; scrape out the pulp and seeds; dry the cucumbers between the folds of a cloth; fill them with white pepper, a little mace, some sliced ginger, and some thin parings of lemon; tie them round with a fine packthread to keep in the seasonings; clarify a thin syrup of double-refined sugar, and when it is nearly cold pour it over the cucumbers, and keep PICKLING AND PRESERVING. 271 four ounces of pounded ginger; let them stand forty- eight hours; then put all into a preserving-pan, and boil till the apples look clear; pot them, and tie bladder over the top of the pots. It is better if the ginger is only bruised and put into a muslin bag, to be afterwards taken out; but you must then use nearly double the quantity of ginger. 750. To MAKE CURRANT JELLY. Take the largest berries you can get; strip them off the stalks; keep back all green ones and the hard red ones at the end of the bunch; then weigh the currants, and take the same weight of single-refined sugar; clarify the sugar, and let it boil to candy, which you will know if, when it boils thick, you take some out in a spoon, and if it hangs in broad flakes it is ready; then throw the currants into the syrup, and let them boil very fast for ten minutes; then pour the jelly through a hair sieve into an earthen pan; stir the currants gently with a spoon, but do not break them, or the pulp will run through and make the jelly thick. While it is passing, clean out the pan it was, boiled in; then return the jelly and warm it on the fire, but do not let it boil again; pot it up, and cover it with oiled paper. This method of making jelly preserves more of the flavour of the fruit than by running it through a bag; and it is not so apt either to candy or become fluid as by the usual way. 751. To MAKE JELLY WITHOUT BOILING. Pick the currants carefully; squeeze the'juice through 272 PICKLING AND PRESERVING. a linen cloth; to every pint of juice allow a pound of refined sugar; pound, sift, and put in the oven to dry, and get as hot as it can be without melting; add it in this condition to the juice in small quantities at a time. It must be constantly stirred by another person while the sugar is being added; when it is all dissolved the jelly is ready for potting. If it is well made it will keep good three years, and is superior in colour and flavour to other boiled jellies. DIFFERENT METHODS OF MAKING MARMALADE. 752. SMOOTH MARMALADE. Weigh the oranges, and then take the same weight of white sugar; wipe all the oranges with a wet cloth, and grate the zest off them; cut the oranges longways in quarters, take off the skins, scrape all the white pulp off the inside of the skins, and from the oranges pick the pips out carefully, and put the skins into water in a pan to boil till they are so tender they will beat to a mash; squeeze all the water out of them, and remove all stringy, parts before you pound them; then clarify the sugar, and mix the syrup by degrees with the pounded skins, stirring with a spoon as if you were making starch. When it is well mixed put it into *he pan, and let it boil till the sugar is incorporated with it; then put in the pulp of the orange and boil till it is smooth and thick. You will know when it is enough done by PICKLING AND PRESERVING. 273 its becoming more difficult to stir and looking of a finer colour. Pound the grated zest in a mortar; take off the marmalade and stir it in carefully; then set the pan on the fire again, and let it boil till thoroughly mixed. If you do not wish it very bitter you may leave out some of the zest, and this you can dry, mix with a little sugar, and pot, for seasoning puddings, creams, etc. 753. MRS. KAY'S MARMALADE. Take Seville oranges, grate them, cut them in two, and squeeze out the juice; remove all the pithy part, and lay them in cold water all night; then boil them in a copper pan till tender; throw them into cold water; take them out, and drain them well; then cut them in small shreds, but reserve some to pound, which must be done quite to a paste; strain the juice through a sieve, and add it and the grating to the rest; clarify an equal weight of sugar as you have of oranges, and when it is boiled to proof (which you will know by dropping a little into cold water, if it crackles then it is ready for you to put in the oranges); boil for half an hour; put it into pots, and let the marmalade be quite cold before you tie them up. Only the outside part of the peel of the orange should be grated in making marmalade. 754. ORANGE-JELLY. To every pound of oranges two quarts of water; cut the oranges in pieces, remove the pips and core, and put them with the oranges in a pan on the fire ; let it boil till the skins are quite soft; then press it through a hair sieve, rubbing it with a spoon till no more will pass. To every T 274 PICKLING AKD PRESERVING. pint of this pulp add one pound of sugar; boil it, re- moving the scum as it rises, till it jellies, which you will know by letting a little cool in a saucer; and it is ready to pot. 755. CHIP-MARMALADE. Commence, as in the foregoing receipt, by weighing the oranges, wiping and grating them; as the oranges are grated pour boiling water over them, and cover them up till ready to use; take equal weight of sugar; cut the oranges across, and squeeze them through a sieve; boil the skins quite tender; scrape off all stringy parts, and cut them into very thin chips; set them on with the syrup, and boil them till they are transparent; then put in the juice, and strain the water from the gratings through a sieve into the pan; let all boil to- gether till the juice jellies. Lemon-marmalade may be made in the same way. 756. MARMALADE OF THE WHOLE ORANGE. For every pound of oranges take two pounds of sugar and one quart of water; cut the oranges across, and quarter them; take out the pips and core, and slice all down as thin as possible ; to every two pounds of oranges allow the juice of three lemons; mix all together, and boil the whole slowly together a full hour; take care the chips do not float, but keep constantly under the syrup. If well made it should look full of jelly. 757. SEVILLE ORANGE SYRUP. Squeeze the oranges through a fine sieve; to every pint of juice add a pound and a quarter of fine white sugar, PICKLING AND PRESERVING. 275 broken into lumps; stir it up all together in a large earthen pan; skim it twice a-day till the sugar is all dissolved, which it will not be under nine days; it must not be made near a fire, and should be kept in a cool place; then bottle it. It is useful for making orange jelly or cream, and a tablespoonful in a glass of water makes a very pleasant drink. Lemons may be made in the same way. 758. SLICED ORANGES. Choose Seville oranges with the thickest rind, which are usually those of the middle size ; cut as many thin round slices from the top, bottom, and sides, as you can till you come to the pulp; throw them into a large basin of spring water, and let them soak two days, then boil them in the same water till they are quite tender; make a syrup with the juice of the oranges and some of the water they have been boiled in, allowing to every pound of liquid and orange-peel included, a pound of fine loaf- sugar; then boil them again, taking one-third of the sugar till they look clear, and allow them to lie in this thin syrup two days; then strain off the syrup and boil it with the rest of the syrup; skim it well; put in the slices, and boil them a quarter of an hour ; take them out, and pot for use. 759. ORANGE-BISCUITS. Boil Seville oranges in water very gently, changing the water three or four times till the oranges are quite ten- der, and a good deal of the bitterness out of the peels; then cut them in halves; scrape out the whole of the 276 PICKLING AND PRESERVING. inside carefully; weigh the peels, and take twice their weight of fine-pounded loaf-sugar, and beat it up with the oranges in a marble mortar till it becomes a smooth paste; with the back of a spoon spread this paste upon sheets of glass, and set them in a window in the "sun to dry , by the next day you may cut the paste into any shaped biscuit you please, and just raise it from the glass; the day after, turn the biscuits, but let them remain on the glass, and as much as possible in the sun till quite dry. Keep them in boxes with sheets of paper between each layer. Lemon-biscuits may be made in the same way. 760. WHITE CURRANT JELLY. Bruise the currants with the back of a wooden spoon, and run the juice through a jelly bag; to every pint of juice take a pound of double-refined sugar; clarify, and boil it to candy; then put in the currant juice; boil it ten minutes; skim well, pass through a fine sieve, and pot it. 761. BLACK CURRANT JELLY. Strip three pints of black currants and one of red from their stalks, and put them into a jar with half a pint of water; tie it close over with folds of paper ; set the jar in a pan of water, and boil for twelve hours, taking care none of the water gets into the jar; add more water to that in the pan as it wastes in boiling; turn the currants when boiled on to a sieve, and bruise them well with the back of a spoon, then gather the bruised berries to- gether, and put them into a clean howl; pour on them a pint of water, and bruise them again; return them to 278 PICKLING AND PRESERVING. put them into a glass jar, with a stick of cinnamon, twelve cloves, a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar- candy, and a quart of brandy. N.B.—The glass jar must be quite full. Tie it over with bladder. 765. GREENGAGES IN BRANDY. Take greengages preserved according to the following receipt, put them in a glass jar, fill them up with good French brandy, tie the jar over, and keep a few weeks. Peaches, nectarines, and apricots may be done in the same way. 766. To PRESERVE GREENGAGES. Pick the plums when full grown and nearly ripe; let them lie in cold water twenty-four hours; lay some vine leaves in the bottom of a clean brass pan; take the plums out of the water and lay them in the pan, pouring over as much water as will just cover them; strew a pinch of powdered alum over, and set the pan on a clear fire ; when they rise to the top, take them out, and put them into a bowl with a little fresh warm water; clean the pan and lay fresh vine leaves in it; return the fruit to the pan; cover it with boiling water, and a small pinch more powdered alum; put a cloth over the pan, and let it stand a quarter of an hour; then take the plums out of the water, weigh them, and take the same weight of double-refined pounded sugar; put the fruit into a clean pan, strew the pounded sugar over them, add a little water, set the pan on a clear fire, and let it boil slowly till the fruit looks green and transparent. It V PICKLING AND PRESERVING. 279 is then ready to put into pots; boil the syrup, however, a little longer, and let it get cold, when you may pour it over the greengages and let them stand two or three days; then pour off the syrup, and boil it up again with more sugar till it is thick and smooth; pour it over the fruit, and close up the pots. 767. CRYSTALLISED FRUITS May also be made, when preserved, by first draining them thoroughly from the syrup; cover them with clarified sugar; boil a minute or two; drain them on sieves, placing them so that they cannot touch each other; dust them over with coarsely-powdered sugar; when dry on one side, then powder the other; repeat this, and when quite dry put them away in boxes. 768. To PRESERVE APRICOTS. Choose ripe apricots; take the stone out at one end, so that they may look whole; prick them all over with the point of a knife, and lay them in a shallow stew-pan, taking care they do not touch each other; add a little clarified sugar to them, but not enough to cover them; let them boil gently up; take the pan off, and when the apricots are cold turn them in the pan, and boil them up again; repeat this twice more, taking care to let them get cold between each turning. When they have, after the last boil-up, stood twelve hours, drain them; put into each a kernel which you have previously blanched, dust them over with pounded sugar, lay them on tins, and put them into a cool oven to dry. Next day turn them on a sieve, let them get perfectly dry 280 PICKLING AND PRESERVING. and hard, and put them away in boxes with paper between. Peaches and nectarines may be done in the same way. 769. APRICOT-JAM. Stone and peel the apricots; take equal weight of sugar and fruit; clarify and boil the sugar to candy; put in the apricots, and let them boil very quick till they are well broke, and bruise them a little with a spoon; blanch the kernels and add them. A little white currant jelly boiled with the apricots is also an improve- ment. Take the pan off, and when the jam is cool, pot and tie it down. Greengages and other plums may be made into jam in the same way. 770. COMPOTE D'ABRICOTS. Take apricots nearly ripe; remove the stone without breaking them; put them in a pan of water on the fire, but do not let them boil; for every twenty-five apricots take a pound of sugar ; clarify it, and put in the apricots; set them on a very slow fire, that the sugar may incor- porate; when quite tender, they are done. If they are to be preserved for future use, drain them, boil the syrup next day, and pour it, when cold, over the fruit; con- tinue doing this for five days, adding each time a little more sugar, as it is necessary the fruit should be quite covered with the syrup. On the last day put the apricots into the boiling sugar, and give them a gentle boil; skim them well; and peaches and quinces may be done in the same way, either for present use or to keep a year. PICKLING AND PRESERVING. 281 771. APRICOT PASTE. Take any quantity of perfectly ripe apricots you choose; take out the stones; put them in a pan of water on the fire to boil till .they break; drain and rub them through a sieve ; dry and weigh the paste ; take as much clarified sugar as fruit; mix well together; put it again on the fire to boil; it must be more done than for marmalade; then put the paste into moulds, or make it into thin flat cakes, and dry them in the oven or stove; paper each one, and put them by in boxes. 772. PINE-APPLE JELLY. Boil two dozen of the best common apples as for apple- jelly; pass them through a jelly bag, and to every two quarts of juice add the juice of a fine pine-apple, which you extract by cutting it into slices, and laying it for two days in fine pounded sugar; add this to the apple juice, clarify, and boil three pints of syrup to a crack; boil the refuse of the pine-apple and the juice ten minutes; pass through a jelly bag, and pot. 773. PINE-APPLE JAM. Pare, cut in slices, and pound a pine-apple to a pulp; to a pint of pulp put a pound of sifted sugar; boil it twenty-five minutes, and pot. 774. PINE-APPLE MARMALADE. Pare the pine-apple, then cut it round and round in small thin shreds or strips like orange marmalade; to each pound of fruit the same weight of fine sugar; boil 280 PICKLING AND PRESERVING. and hard, and put them away in boxes with paper between. Peaches and nectarines may be done in the same way. 769. APRICOT-JAM. Stone and peel the apricots; take equal weight of sugar and fruit; clarify and boil the sugar to candy; put in the apricots, and let them boil very quick till they are well broke, and bruise them a little with a spoon ; blanch the kernels and add them. A little white currant jelly boiled with the apricots is also an improve- ment. Take the pan off, and when the jam is cool, pot and tie it down. Greengages and other plums may be made into jam in the same way. 770. COMPÖTE D'ABRICOTS. Take apricots nearly ripe; remove the stone without breaking them ; put them in a pan of water on the fire, but do not let them boil; for every twenty-five apricots take a pound of sugar ; clarify it, and put in the apricots; set them on a very slow fire, that the sugar may incor- porate ; when quite tender, they are done. If they are to be preserved for future use, drain them, boil the syrup next day, and pour it, when cold, over the fruit ; con- tinue doing this for five days, adding each time a little more sugar, as it is necessary the fruit should be quite covered with the syrup. On the last day put the apricots into the boiling sugar, and give them a gentle boil; skim them well; and peaches and quinces may be done in the same way, either for present use or to keep a year. Y. PICKLING AND PRESERVING. 281 771. APRICOT PASTE. Take any quantity of perfectly ripe apricots you choose ; take out the stones; put them in a pan of water on the fire to boil till they break; drain and rub them through a sieve ; dry and weigh the paste ; take as much clarified sugar as fruit; mix well together; put it again on the fire to boil; it must be more done than for marmalade ; then put the paste into moulds, or make it into thin flat cakes, and dry them in the oven or stove ; paper each one, and put them by in boxes. - 772. PINE-APPLE JELLY. Boil two dozen of the best common apples as for apple- jelly; pass them through a jelly bag, and to every two quarts of juice add the juice of a fine pine-apple, which you extract by cutting it into slices, and laying it for two days in fine pounded sugar ; add this to the apple juice, clarify, and boil three pints of syrup to a crack ; boil the refuse of the pine-apple and the juice ten minutes; pass through a jelly bag, and pot. 773. PINE-APPLE JAM. Pare, cut in slices, and pound a pine-apple to a pulp ; to a pint of pulp put a pound of sifted sugar; boil it twenty-five minutes, and pot. 774. PINE-APPLE MARMALADE. Pare the pine-apple, then cut it round and round in small thin shreds or strips like orange marmalade; to each pound of fruit the same weight of fine sugar; boil 282 PICKLING AND PRESERVING. till jellied. If there is not enough juice in the pine- apple, add either lemon or apple-juice. 775. PINE-APPLE IN SLICES. Pare off the outside, and cut the pine-apple in slices about half an inch thick; put a layer of fruit and a layer of sugar alternately in an earthen pan ; let it remain on the stovo three .or four days, then put it into a preserv- ing-pan with the juice of four lemons, and boil for ten minutes, skimming it well; next day boil it again for ten minutes, and put it up. Or the slices may be drained from the syrup, powdered with sugar, and dried in the oven; the syrup being kept to flavour jellies, creams, etc. 776. APPLE-JELLY. Pare and core six pounds of green codlings or any juicy apples; cut them in pieces, and add a quart of water to them; boil them gently till quite mashed, stirring all the time; put this through a jelly-bag, and to a quart of this juice add three pints of clarified syrup; boil the sugar to a crack, add the apple-juice, and boil together ten minutes. Care must be taken not to boil it too much, or it becomes like treacle. Any sort of fruit may be added to this jelly, boiling the fruit whole in it, and putting it into pots while hot—such as strawberries, raspberries, cherries, etc. 777. STRAWBERRIES WHOLE. Take two quarts of clarified syrup, boil to a strong blow, put eight pounds of fine large strawberries in it, PICKLING AND PEESEEVING. 283 and boil them up gently, taking care they do not break Repeat this boiling three times, letting them stand a quarter of an hour to cool between each. Now add two quarts of apple-jelly made as above; boil it up three times more, and put it hot into glasses or pots. 778. BASPBERRY-JAM. Pick and clean the raspberries well, and to every pound add a pint of red currant juice and a pound and a half of lump-sugar; pound it and put it into a pan alter- nately with the fruit; let it stand some time before you set it on the fire, that the sugar may soften; boil over a quick fire, and when the fruit falls to the bottom it is done enough. 779. GOOSEBERRY-JAM. Take the same weight of pounded sugar as of goose- berries, strewing the sugar over them as you put them in the pan; pour half a pint of water over them, and set them on a slow fire to boil gently a few minutes; skim as clear as you can; then put them on a hotter fire, and boil till they look quite clear, and will jelly (about twenty minutes). They are then ready to pot. 780. GOOSEBERRY-JELLY. Fill a stone jar with ripe gooseberries; cover the top close up with paper; set the jar in water, and boil till the gooseberries are quite tender; then pass them through a sieve, and to every pint of juice add a pound of single-refined sugar, clarified; put in the juice, and boil COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND POOR. 783. EUMFORD SOUP. Take double the quantity of water you want to have soup; one pound of split peas, three carrots and turnips, or more if they are not large, and put it overnight to simmer by a slow fire; strain it next morning; add a quarter of a pound of rice, pepper, salt, celery, and any other vegetable you may have. Let them simmer on a slow fire till tender. 784. SOUP FOE THE POOR. One pound of beef, a quarter of a pound of rice or barley, two onions, five turnips, pepper, and salt; put all together into a gallon of water; when it has boiled for an hour, take out the beef and cut it in small pieces; add some potatoes, and boil an hour longer. It may also be thickened with meal, which makes it more nourishing. 785. A NOURISHING SOUP FOE THE POOR. Take the liquor in which meat has been boiled the day before, with the bones of leg and shin of beef, and add as much water as will make thirty gallons; add also two ox heads, the meat of ten stone of leg and shin of beef, all cut in pieces; two bunches of carrots, four of turnips, two bunches of leeks, half a peck of onions, a COOKERY FOE THE SICK AND POOR. 287 788. STEW FOR THE POOR. Take a pound and a quarter of fat mutton; cut it into pieces; add nine potatoes, two turnips, eight onions, half a gill of split peas, and a little celery-seed; cut all the vegetables up small; season with salt and pepper, and pour five quarts of water on the whole; let it simmer two hours and a half on a slow fire. The whole expenses will not exceed Is. 6d., and it will feed more than five persons. 789. PEA-SOUP. One pound of split peas, one teaspoonful of celery-seed, a large onion, some ground and whole pepper, salt, and a beef bone or two, either raw or cooked ; boil the whole together slowly two or three hours; strain it, and set it on to boil again slowly for a short time. Potato-soup may be made in the same way, but do not strain, and leave out the celery-seed. 790. BEEF-TEA. Cut three pounds of beef into pieces the size of a walnut, and if there are any bones chop them up also; put it into a saucepan with some vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, celery, an onion, or some leeks, etc., half an ounce of salt and some pepper, a teaspoonful of sugar, and a pint of water; set it on a sharp fire for ten minutes, stirring it now and then with a spoon. It should form a thick, but not brown, gravy at the bottom. Then add six pints of hot water; set it on a sharp fire, and when it boils take it off and set it 290 COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND POOR. 797. EESTORATIVE JELLY FOR THE POOR. Take a neat's foot cleaned and prepared, two ounces of hartshorn shavings, two quarts of milk, and two quarts of water; bake for several hours in a slow oven, strain it, and when cold remove the fat; warm it a little and sweeten it; a cupful to be taken as often as liked. In summer it is best to omit the milk in making it, and add a little when used. 798. STRENGTHENING JELLY. Bake four calves' feet in two quarts of water, and the same of new milk, in a close covered jar four hours. When cold, remove the fat; it may be flavoured with lemon-peel, cinnamon, mace, etc., and sweetened to taste. Give a glassful the first and last thing. 799. ANOTHER. Boil half an ounce of fine isinglass with a quart of new milk, till reduced to a pint; add some sugar and two or three bitter almonds, pounded. Drink this at bedtime; it is good for a cough. 800. NOURISHING JELLY. Simmer six sheep's trotters, two blades of mace, a little cinnamon, lemon-peel, a few hartshorn shavings, and a little isinglass, in two quarts of water till it is reduced to one; when cold, remove the fat. Give half a pint twice a-day, warming it with a little new milk. 292 COOKERY FOE THE SICK AND POOR. distance from the fire to dry gradually. When it is quite dry, and looks clear and hard like horn, put it by in tin boxes to keep for use. 803. HARTSHORN JELLY. Put half a pound of hartshorn shavings into three quarts of water • boil to a" quart; then add an ounce of the strained juice of Seville oranges or lemons, four ounces of Malaga wine, and half a pound of fine sugar; boil down to a consistence fit to drink when warm, or jelly when cold. 804. ICELAND-MOSS JELLY. Boil three-quarters of an ounce of Iceland moss (un- washed) in a pint and a half of water until only a pint remains; add the juice of a Seville orange, and take a wine-glassful two or three times a day. (Very nourish- ing and good in consumptive cases.) 805. IVORY-DUST JELLY. Boil one pound of ivory-dust in three quarts of water for eight hours. It will require no skimming. When done strain through a jelly-bag. This may be flavoured in various ways with wine or lemon and sugar; but it is very strengthening, and its principal use is, that, having no taste, it may be mixed in tea or coffee or other fluids, and given without the patient's detecting it. 806. GLOUCESTER JELLY. Barley, sago, rice, and eringo root, of each one ounce; boil them in a quart of water till reduced to a pint; COOKERY FOE THE SICK AND POOH. 293 then pass it through a sieve. A teacupful, with a little milk, to be taken night and morning; or it may be dissolved in beef-tea, wine, etc. 807. PORK SOUP OR JELLY. Cut up and break the bone of a leg of pork; simmer it gently in three gallons of water till reduced to one; add salt and pepper, and let half an ounce of nutmeg or other spice stew in it; and strain it. This may either be taken as soup, a cupful three times a day, or eaten cold as jelly, and is extremely nourishing. 808. VEAL SOUP OR JELLY. Slice a pound of veal very thin; put it into a closely- covered jar or other vessel in alternate layers, with sliced turnips; add one teacupful of water and a little salt; place in a pan of water, and simmer gently four hours; or it may be done for the same time in the oven; strain it, and when cold it will be a strong jelly, and is equally good and nutritious eaten so, or warmed into soup. 809. FOWL SOUP OR JELLY. Skin and cut in pieces an old fowl; break the bones; put it in a covered earthen pan with a cup of water; simmer seven hours either in a bain marie or the oven; season to taste, and strain it. To be eaten either hot, or cold as jelly. 810. PARTRIDGE OR PHEASANT SOUP OR JELLY. Skin and cut in pieces two large old partridges or one pheasant; fry it with a small quantity of butter or fat 294 COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND POOR. bacon, together with an onion or two, some celery, and a little salt. When quite done, pour three quarts of boiling water on it, and put it in a close-covered vessel, which place either in the oven or in a pan of water on the fire to simmer slowly three hours; then strain off the soup. 811. BREAD-BERRY. Pour boiling water over thin slices of bread in a bowl, as much as will make it thick or thin as you wish; sweeten it with brown sugar, and add a little cinnamon water. 812. BREAD PANADA. Set some water on the fire, about a tumblerful, with a glass of sherry, some loaf-sugar, and a little grated nutmeg and lemon-peel. Have some grated crumbs of bread ready, and the moment the water boils put them in without taking the pan off the fire. Let it boil as fast as possible. When sufiiciently thick just to drink it is ready for use. 813. CHICKEN PANADA. Skin a chicken, and boil it in a quart of water till about three-parts ready; let it stand till cold, then cut all the white meat off; put it into a mortar and pound it to a paste with a little of the water it was boiled in; season with a little salt, a grate of a nutmeg, and a small piece of lemon-peel; boil gently a few minutes to the con- sistency you like. It should be tolerably thick, but such as you can drink if you please. Barley or rice may be boiled to a pulp, passed through a tammy, and added 296 COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND POOR. 817. To MAKE ARROWROOT. For one cupful take a teaspoonful of the best arrowroot, and mix it by degrees with cold water till it is quite smooth, but so stiff that the spoon will only just turn round in it; have ready a kettle of quite boiling water, and fill the cup up, pouring at first slowly ^and then more rapidly, and stirring all the time in the same proportion. The result should be a perfectly clear jelly, to which you may add a tablespoonful of brandy or sherry, or flavour it with lemon, and sweeten with sugar to taste. It is much better made in this way than boiled. 818. PORRIDGE. Fill a pan with water, and while it is boiling add a little meal and as much salt as you think will be necessary to season the porridge; then take the porridge-stick (a round stick like a thin rolling-pin) in the right hand and the oatmeal in the left, and when the water begins to rise shake in the meal with one hand and stir with the other quickly, but adding the meal by degrees; continue putting it in till it is thick enough not to fly over when stirred; continue to boil it for some time, well beating it with the porridge-stick. It may be made thinner or thicker according to taste. Barley-meal por- ridge is made in the same way, and should be served in a soup plate, which is better than a wooden bowl, in which oatmeal porridge is best. They are both eaten with milk and cream, or ale and brown sugar. Nothing is so wholesome and nourishing for children. COOKERY FOE THE SICK AND TOOE. 297 819. FUEMITY. Boil -wheat till it comes to a jelly, and to a quart of this add by degrees two quarts of new milk; stir and boil till well mixed; beat the yolks of three eggs, with a little nutmeg, and sugar to sweeten it to taste ; stir this well in over the fire; pour it into deep dishes, and eat either hot or-oold. 820. FLUMMERY. Put three handfuls of fine white oatmeal to steep a day and night in cold water; then pour the water off clear, and add as much more water; let it again stand the same time; then strain it through a fine hair sieve, and boil it till it is as thick as hasty pudding, stirring it all the time; add to it, while boiling, a spoonful of sugar and two of orange-flower water. When ready, pour it into shallow dishes. Wine, milk, or cream are eaten with it. 821. DUTCH FLUMMERY. Boil two ounces of isinglass in a pint and a half of water very gently for half an hour ; add a pint of white wine, the juice of three lemons, and the rind of one cut very thin; rub a few lumps of sugar opfanother lemon to obtain the essence; add as much of this sugar as will sweeten it sufficiently; beat the yolks of seven eggs, add and mix into the above, and give the whole one scald, stirring all the time; pour it into a basin, and stir till cold; let it settle, and put it into cups, or any shape. This is very strengthening. 298 COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND POOR. 822. EICE FLUMMERY. Boil with a pint of new milk a bit of lemon-peel and cinnamon,' mix with a little cold milk ^rice-flour enough to make it rather thick; add to the hot milk, and boil it till it is smooth and of good consistency, taking care it does not burn; then pour it into a basin; when cold, turn it on to a dish, and serve with cream, milk, or custard. 823. BARLEY GRUEL. Wash four ounces of pearl barley; boil it into two quarts of water, with a bit of cinnamon, till it is reduced to one quart ; strain, and return it to the sauce-pan, with a little sugar and three-quarters of a pint of port wine; make it quite hot, and it is ready to be used as wanted. It is very strengthening. 824. GROUND-EICE MILK. Boil one spoonful of ground rice, rubbed down smooth, with a pint and a half of milk, a bit of cinnamon and lemon-peel, a little nutmeg and sugar to taste; add the sugar only when nearly done. It should be thick and smooth. 825. THICK BARLEY-WATER. Wash a quarter of a pound of pearl barley, and boil it in a gallon of water till it is quite soft, smooth, and white; then strain, and flavour with lemon-juice, and sweeten with a little syrup. Some people consider barley-water made with common barley as preferable to pearl barley. It should be well washed, and allowed to simmer slowly, COOKERY FOE THE SICK AND POOE. 299 with a little lemon-peel, in water, and when thick enough strained. 826. CLEAR BARLEY-WATER. Wash a large cupful of pearl barley twice in cold and once in warm water, throwing away the water; then put the barley into a jug holding about two pints, with the peel of a lemon cut very thin and a small piece of sugar; pour quite boiling water over this, cover it close, and let it stand till cold; do not strain, but pour it off clear. 827. TOAST AND WATER, Cut a crust off a loaf of stale bread, about twice the thickness toast is usually cut; toast it carefully till it is hard and brown all over, but not at all blackened or burnt; put this into a jug, and pour over it what quantity of water you require, boiling hot; cover the jug close, and let it stand till cold. The fresher it is made the better, as it is apt to turn sour. 828. OATMEAL-WATER' Is made in the same way as toast and water. The oat- meal may be browned in the oven or before the fire; boil- ing water is then poured over it as above. It is very useful in stopping sickness. 829. ORGEAT OF MONTPELLIER. Take one pound of barley; wash it and soak it in water; separate the grains well; tie it up in a piece of muslin, put it in a pot with a quart of water, and set it on the fire 300 COOKERY FOE THE SICK AND POOE. to boil gently four hours. Then put into the water one pound of sweet almonds, without their skins; boil a few minutes; then take out the barley and almonds; pound them together in a mortar; mix well with the water; strain all together through a piece of linen; pound again the residue; pour the water over; stir, and repeat the straining. This water should now look very thick. Add a pound of pounded lump-sugar, and boil to a syrup. You will know that the syrup is done by dropping some on to a plate, and it remains like paste. Then take it off the fire, and flavour it with fleur d'orange, or anything else you please. Bottle and keep it for use. To make the drink, put into the bottom of a decanter one ounce of syrup, pour fresh water over it, shake to mix it well, and it is ready to drink immediately. 830. FRESH ORGEAT OR ALMOND-MILK. Blanch and pound four ounces of sweet almonds and four bitter almonds; when pounded very fine, add one quart of water, a spoonful of syrup, or some pounded sugar, and two spoonfuls of orange-flower water. This latter may be omitted, and it may be made with milk instead of water. It is very good for a cough, and very serviceable in many inflammatory attacks. 831. EASPBERRY-WATER TO DRINK. Mash one pint of raspberries in the juice of two lemons, a pint of water, and as much syrup as will sweeten it to taste; strain through a lawn sieve. Strawberry, cherry, and mulberry water may be made in the same way. It •is a very refreshing drink when feverish, or in hot weather. COOKEEY FOE THE SICK AND POOR. 301 832. LEMON CUP. The peel of a lemon added to an ounce of clarified sugar and a pint of quite boiling water; when quite cold add the juice of the lemon and a glass of white wine. 833. LEMONADE. To a dozen of lemons add two quarts of water, two pounds of sugar, a pint and a half of any kind of white wine, and a pint of milk; peel all the lemons, and pour the water boiling on the peel; let it stand till nearly cold, then squeeze in the juice, and add the sugar and wine, and the milk, which must be boiling; let it stand a few minutes, and pour it through a jelly-bag till it is quite clear. 834. APPLE-WATER. Peel and slice some sharp apples; add a little sugar and lemon-pee], then pour over it boiling water. Let it stand in a covered jug by the fire for two hours, when it is fit for use. It may be drunk cold or hot, and is very re- freshing, iced. Another way of making it is to cut six apples in pieces, leaving the skins on • pour over them a quart of boiling water; let it stand an hour, and add two ounces of honey, and the juice of two lempns. 835. EHUBARB-WATER. Boil six clean-washed stalks of .rhubarb ten minutes in a quart of water; strain the liquor through a tammy into a jug; add the peel of a lemon cut very thin and one tablespoonful of clarified sugar; let it stand five or six hours, and it is fit to drink . COOKERY FOE THE SICK AND POOR. 303 It must not be warmed after the egg is added, or it will curdle. 841. LINSEED DRINK. Pour over a teaspoonful of linseed, or more if required thicker for a cough, a quart of boiling water; the whole or half the peel of a lemon and two or three pieces of sugar-candy are to be added, and the whole left to stand in a covered jug till cold. 842. CLARIFIED MlLK WHEY. To six pints of milk add enough rennet to turn it; leave it to make in a warm place; press out the whey, and strain; clarify it by adding the whites of three eggs, and half a drachm of cream-of-tartar; boil, and filter through paper. 843. BRANDY MIXTURE. A gill of brandy, the same quantity of cinnamon water, beaten up with the yolks of two eggs and half an ounce of pounded sugar. This is a valuable restorative in cases of extreme exhaustion. A tablespoonful or two should be given at intervals of from ten to fifteen minutes. 844. EGG CORDIAL. A tablespoonful of cream, the white of a very fresh egg, and a tablespoonful of brandy; whip first the egg nearly to a froth, then the cream with the egg; add the brandy by degrees, and mix well; do not let it stand after it is made. This is very nourishing, and so light, it will remain in the stomach when nothing else will. The receipt was given to me by the late Professor Miller of Edinburgh. 304 COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND POOR. 845. FOR A WEAK DIGESTION. Beat up in a basin a fresh-laid egg, add six tablespoon- fuls of cold water, then two of potato-flour; mix it thoroughly with the water and egg, and pour as much boiling water over it as will make into a jelly, stirring it well. This is useful in all cases of stomachic debility; it is light, wholesome, and nourishing. It may be eaten for breakfast with the addition of a little milk and sugar. 846. LAIT DE POULE Is simply the yolk of an egg well beat, then carefully adding to it by degrees boiling water, stirring it all the time to prevent its curdling. It should be sweetened with sugar-candy. For a cold, a spoonful of wine or rum may be added to it, or it may be made with beef-tea instead of water, which makes it very nourishing. 847. CORDIAL FOR THE WEAK. Add a pint of wine to a quart of barley-gruel; boil'it down to one-third; add lemon-peel or any seasoning preferred. A teacupful taken several times a-day is very strengthening. 848. CORDIAL FOR AN INVALID. Half a pint of the best French brandy, boiled with as much coarse brown sugar as the brandy will imbibe, till it becomes about the consistency of treacle. Boiling the brandy takes away its heating qualities; and this receipt, taken frequently in small quantities, has been found of the greatest use to consumptive persons. DAIRY—CHEESE, BUTTER, ETC. 049. To PREPARE RENNET. Take a calf's maw and turn it out of the'bag; then take nutmeg crushed small, a large handful of sweet bay leaves minced, and a large handful of salt; when well mixed together put it into the bag. Boil a strong pickle of salt and water; when cold, pour three pints of it over the bag; cover it up, turning it every day for a fortnight, and pricking it with a fork; then squeeze it all through a cloth, and bottle for use. A few nettles boiled with the water are considered an improvement. Or it may be prepared thus:—Take out the stomach of a calf just killed, and scour it well with salt and water both inside and out; let it drain ; put two large handfuls of salt in it, and sew it up; dry it, and soak a bit in fresh water when wanted; or it may be left wet in the salt and water. 850. A CREAM CHEESE. Dip a cheese-cloth in salt and water; take the thickest cream you have; lay it in a shape (which should be square); pour the cream in, and leave it untouched one day; then turn it on to a dry cloth, and put a weight of four pounds on it; change the dry cloth once more. On the third day it is ready to eat. x 30G DAIKY—CHEESE, BUTTER, ETC. 851. IRISH CREAM CHEESE. Let twelve quarts of new milk stand two or three days until it is quite thick; skim it, and tie up the cream in a linen cloth wet with salt and water; hang it up to drain; when it has done dripping, open the cloth and put the cheese on a deep plate, with a wet cloth under it, arranged so that you can turn the cheese till it is dry ; then put it on another plate without a cloth, and cover it with nettles fresh every day till you think it fit for use. In warm weather the cream thickens and the cheese ripens quicker than in cold. This is particularly good. 852. CREAM FOR BUTTER Should be kept constantly stirred—i e. three or four times a-day—and changed from one tub to another every day. To prevent milk or butter tasting of turnips or cabbages, the best way is to pour a quart of boiling water on two ounces of saltpetre; when dissolved and cold, bottle and cork it for use; put two large spoonfuls of this to every four gallons of milk immediately it is brought in, stirring it well; a piece of saltpetre about the size of a walnut may also be put in the cream- pot, and stirred at least once a-day. This method, if regularly attended to, has been found very effectual; but turnips should never be given to milking-cows raw. If steamed with hay they impart a much less disagree- able flavour to the milk. Charcoal put into the milk- pan is said to be a good remedy. - DAIRY—CHEESE, BUTTED, ETC. 307 853. To KEEP CREAM. Mix with any quantity of good cream half its weight of finely-powdered lump-sugar; stir it together, and put it into bottles, closely corked, and tied down. It is said to keep good six or eight months. 854. A CREAM CHEESE FOR IMMEDIATE USE. Skim a pint of thick cream; let it stand twelve hours; add a little salt to it; dip a napkin in salt and water; fold it four times double; pour the cream into it, and hang it up for twelve hours to drain; lay it on a plate; cover it with nettles or vine-leaves; put a plate on the top, and it is fit to eat next day. It may also be made in the same way in the morning, and eaten that night at dinner; but then you put no nettles on it, and serve as soon as made. 855. CURDS AND CREAM. Take a pint of new milk, and half a pint of cream; warm them together with a spoonful of rennet; cover the pan with a cloth wrung out in cold water till the curd is set, then gather it; lay it on rushes till all the whey has run out. Serve in a bowl with cream poured over it. 856. CREAM CURDS. Take a quart of cream and six eggs, mix them well to- gether; set on the fire to boil in a pan, three quarts of water with a little salt in it; when it boils put in a tablespoonful of vinegar, or a pint of thick sour butter- 310 DAIUY—CHEESE, BUTTER, ETC. 862. To PURIFY SALT FOR MAKING SALT BUTTER. To one gallon of sweet whey add fifty-six pounds of salt dissolved in warm water; set this on to boil; when it begins boiling, keep constantly skimming it; after no more scum appears, boil it down, decreasing the fire towards the end that it may boil very slowly, and the salt fall to the bottom in large crystals, when it is to be raked out; continue this till only about two quarts of liquid are left, which may be saved for the next refining. To prove if the salt is pure, add about half a teaspoonful of hartshorn to some of it. If the mixture becomes turbid, it is still impure ; if it remains clear, it is all right. 863. To SALT BUTTER. Take sixteen ounces of this purified salt, four ounces of white sugar, and an ounce of saltpetre; pound and mix well together. The proportion of this to be mixed with the butter is one ounce to the pound. 864. To MAKE SALT BUTTER FRESH. To every pound of butter allow one quart of new milk; churn them well together, and in about an hour take out the butter, and treat it exactly as fresh butter, making it up in water, and adding the usual quantity of salt. The butter gains in weight about three ounces to the pound, and is as good as fresh. 865. MILK-AND-WATER CHEESE. To every three parts of milk, fresh from the cow, take one of water; make the water hot enough to warm the DAIRY—CHEESE, BUTTER, ETC. 311 milk sufficiently for the rennet; but the colder curd is made the better, the whey runs from it quicker and purer; the water keeps in all the richness of the milk. When the curd is formed, break it as little as possible; salt it on the outside; change the cheese-cloth round it three times a-day; put it for two days in the press, but with little weight on it; then lay it to ripen on vine or nettle leaves, turning it night and morning for ten days or a fortnight, when it will be fit for use. It will not keep many weeks, but is an excellent cheese, and very rich. 866. A SCOTCH CHEESE. To four Scotch pints of milk, new from the cow, add one Scotch pint of cream; put to this only just enough rennet to make a curd that will break well; press it, and treat it as usual. If made in summer, it is fit to eat by winter. It is an admirable cheese, similar to a Bath cheese. 807. AN EXCELLENT CHEESE. One-half butter milk, one-half sweet milk ; the one fresh from the churn, the other hot from the cow. To be kept about a twelvemonth, when it will be of a fine green mould, and eat like Stilton. 8G8. A ROUND CHEESE. Take twenty pints of sweet milk, fresh from the cow; add to it two pints of cream, and to the whole a gill of rennet; when the whey is taken off, put half a pound of salt among the curd; tie it up in a cloth, and hang it 312 DAIRY—CHEESE, BUTTEE, ETC. to drip, changing the cloth every day for eight days; after which put it into a vat, and press it. 869. PARMESAN CHEESE, AS MADE AT Lorn. The milk is to be skimmed once, boiled, and coagulated with rennet in the usual manner. When the curd is completely formed (which takes from one to three hours, according to the weather) it is then to be broken in pieces with two different machines,—one a flat board, the other the same shape and size, but made of wire. By striking the curd against these machines it is broken into very small pieces; when this is done the curd must be salted, and immediately put into the cheese-vat; the only pres- sure to be used is a middle-sized stone laid on the boards, and that only for twelve hours. 870. NEW MILK CHEESE. Warm the milk to about the heat it has when drawn from the cow, add to it a sufficiency of rennet to turn it, and cover it over; let it remain till well turned, then strike the curd well down with the skimming-dish, and let it separate, observing to keep it still covered ; as soon as the whey is out salt it; put the vat over the tub, and fill it with curd, which must be squeezed close with the hand, and more added as it sinks; fill up till it is about three inches above the edge of the vat; draw the cheese- cloth (which should be laid in the bottom of the vat before the curd is put in) smoothly over on all sides; put a board under and over the vat, which should have holes in the bottom ; put it in the press, and let it remain two hours ; turn it out, change the cheese-cloth, and press X 314 DAIRY—CHEESE, BUTTER, ETC. that is done warm some of the whey, and when near boiling pour it over the curd, and let it stand a few minutes ; then mince the curd down with a mincing-knife, strain off the whey, and put it into a cheese-mould, and press as usual. When the cheese-cloth comes off it dry it is sufficiently pressed, and must then be rubbed every day for eight days with salt, and laid on a strainer, that the pickle may run .off. As the cheese dries its appear- ance is much improved by occasionally scraping the out- side, and rubbing it with butter. 874. STILTON CHEESE. Very early in the morning take the cream of five gallons of milk, and five gallons of milk hot from the cow; mix the two well together, and add as much boiling water as will make the whole of the proper warmth for the curd to come; then add the rennet, but as weak as possible, for if it is strong it makes the cheese crumble; lay a wet napkin over the sieve, and if, as sometimes happens, the cream has risen to the top, take this curd off first and lay it on one side, being careful not to break it; then take up with a skimmer the rest of the curd; lay it on the sieve also without breaking; put the cream curd over it in order that it may be well mixed, otherwise the cheese will be rich in one place and poor in another. When the whey is strained from it, tie the curd up in the napkin and hang it up till it gives over dripping; now cut the curd in pieces and lay it for half an hour in as much fresh water as will cover it; then take out one-half and put it in a" cheese-hoop, strewing a little salt over it; put the other half on the top, breaking it a little so DAIKY—CHEESE, BUTTER, ETC. 315 as to make them join well, and lay a small weight upon it. Care must be taken that it is not heavy enough to make the whey run white. It must he turned every hour during the day upside down on to a clean wet cloth, keeping the slight weight on it; next morning lay it on salt for twenty-four hours, then swathe it tight in band- ages, which must be changed, and the cheese wiped and turned every day, and covered with a cloth for a consider- able-time till it dries and ripens. The cheese may be made to any size; and the best season is in August, September, or October, if the weather is dry. VARIOUS RECEIPTS FOR MAKING COFFEE. 875. COFEEE. The best kind is Mocha, but Java is also good, and a mixture of the two makes excellent coffee. It is always best to buy it raw, and roast and grind it yourself as you want. It should not be too much roasted, as it makes it bitter; and not more than a week before it is used, as it loses its flavour; it ought also always to be ground fresh just before using. A great secret in making good coffee is to use plenty in proportion to the quantity of water, at least one cupful of coffee to every two of water. It should never be allowed to boil, as it gives it a coarse bitter taste. There are now an endless variety of coffee-pots for making coffee, but the simplest are always the best. The usual French coffee-pot is made in two parts, fitting closely into one another; the bottom of the upper part is perforated with small holes, and it contains two movable metal strainers; on the under one the coffee is placed, and boiling water poured on it through the upper one; the lid is then closely shut down, and the pot placed by the fire till it all strained through, and clear. A still simpler pot, and one which makes excellent coffee, is a tin pot, in which is suspended a VARIOUS RECEIPTS FOR MAKING COFFEE. 317 strong linen bag, sewn to a ring which fits into the top of the pot; the coffee is placed in the bag, which is shaped like a funnel, and boiling water poured over it; it runs through quite clear. Care should be taken to scald the bag every time it is used. Many prefer the bag to be made of flannel, or use both—one inside the other, the first being made rather shorter. In Germany I have seen a very ingenious coffee-machine for making coffee yourself in the drawing-room. It consists of two vases, one of glass and the other of china; the latter is stopped close with a cork at the top, and is provided with a tap to draw the coffee off; the two are connected with a syphon, which passes into both, and the end in the glass vase is fitted with a fine strainer; a balancing weight is also attached on the side of the glass vase. The requisite quantity of coffee is placed in the glass, the water in the china vase; a lamp is then lit under the latter; as the water boils, the pressure of the confined steam forces the water up che syphon and into the glass vase; as the water as- cends, the weight being removed from the china vase, it rises, and the lamp underneath, which is also pro- vided with a cover and a balancing weight, is ex- tinguished by the cover falling on it; at the same time the strainer at the end of the syphon descends and presses the coffee down, the water forces itself through the coffee, and bubbles up in the glass. The atmospheric air now meets it coining through the hole down which the syphon passes, and forces the coffee back into the china vase, which, as the weight falls into it, again de- scends into its original place, and the coffee is ready to be drawn off clear and good. It may be passed in this 318 VARIOUS RECEIPfS FOE MAKING COFFEE. way twice to make it stronger, but it is better if enough coffee is put in to make it strong enough with once pass- ing. This scientific and pretty little machine has, how- ever, the slight objection that it is apt to explode, if at least great care is not taken that no obstruction occurs in the pipe of the syphon. 876. To MAKE COFFEE. AS AT PARIS. The coffee-berries should be more roasted than is gener- ally the case in England, and the fresher they are roasted the better; in any case they should not be kept longer than a week, and never ground longer than an hour before the coffee is prepared. The powder is to be placed in the ordinary French coffee-pot, in the propor- tion of half an ounce to every good-sized cupful of water, which should be poured in a boiling state on the coffee. The coffee-pot is then to be placed near the fire in such a way as to keep it very hot, but under the boiling- point; so that all the strength is brought out, but the aroma not carried off. It is usually kept thus for two hours, and then gently poured into the coffee-pot in which it is to be served. Many persons prefer an addi- tion of chicory-powder, which should be in the propor- tion of a teaspoonful to the ounce of coffee. 877. To MAKE GOOD COFFEE. Take one pound of fresh-ground Mocha coffee; put it into a saucepan with three quarts of water; set it on the stove, and whisk it till it comes to a boil; draw the pan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for ten minutes; then throw into it a large tumblerful of > VARIOUS RECEIPTS FOR MAKING COFFEE. 319 cold water, in which you have dissolved a quarter of an ounce of isinglass; this is to clarify it ; let it simmer a minute or two longer, and take the pan from the fire; let it stand half an hour to settle; then you can pour the coffee off' clear and fit for use. It is better made a day before, and when wanted heated in a bain-marie— i.e. by putting the coffee-pot into boiling water. Great care must be taken that the coffee itself does not boil, as it makes it bitter. 878. COFFEE MILK. Boil two ounces of well and fresh ground coffee in a pint of milk for twenty minutes; put in two or three shavings of isinglass to clear it; let it boil a few minutes longer; set it aside till it fines, and sweeten it to taste. 320 PEPPER POT. This soup, which is of West Indian origin, should be made in an earthen pot, which always remains by the side of the fire, where the contents simmer but do not boil. These should consist of an equal admixture of fish, flesh, fowl, and vegetables, seasoned with chilis or Cayenne pepper and salt,— the only attention it, requires being occasional skimming and the addition of a little water when it gets too dry. Anything and everything may be put into it; and as it should at all times be simmering by the fire, a good meal is always ready for any guest that may chance to come uninvited. 322 INDEX. Beer cup, 256 ginger, 262 white spruce, 263 Beetroot, fricassée of, 151 stewed, 151 and small onions, to dress with a sauce piquante, 151 Beignets d'abricots, 203 de fraises, 202 de groseilles, 203 d’orange, 202 - de péches au vin du Rhin, 202 de pommes à la Bavarie, 201 en surprise, 203 Beurre de Montpellier, noir, for skate, etc., 54 Biscuits, a la cuillière, 250 gooseberry, 284 Marathon, 251 Naples, 249 orange, 275 paste, 211 potato, 251 sugar, 249 Black puddings, 125 Blanquette of veal A la Paysanne, 115 Bloaters, Yarmouth, to cook, 73 Boudins of rabbit, 114 Bouillabaise à l’Anglaise, 19 a Marseilles receipt, 18 Brandy butter sauce for plum- pudding, 208 cherries, 277 cherry, 253 currant, 253 mixture, 303 orange, 252 punch, 259 Bread, aerated, 238 Bread and butter pudding, 180 berry, 294 brown, ice-cream, 232 cake, 244 excellent, 237 a plain loaf of, 237 panada, 294 pudding, 181 Bread sauce, 42, 43 to make brown, 237 to make fine, 236 very fine, 238 Breakfast cakes, 240 Brioche, 244 Broth, beef, 5 calves' feet, 288 chicken, 289 clear, or English, 5 Scotch mutton, 2 sheep's head, 3 Sir Robert Preston's, 3 sportsman's, 10 veal, a very nourishing, 288 Brussels sprouts au jus, 141 Buns, 241 Burnt cream, 214 Butter, melted, 51 salt, to make fresh, 310 salt, to purify salt for making, 310 sauce, à la maitre d'hôtel, 25 anchovy, 26 Montpellier, 26 pimento, 26 shallot, 26 to salt, 310 to salt, an Irish receipt, 309 Buttered eggs, 161 CABBAGE A la bourgeoise, 140 en surprise, 140 lettuce, to stew, 143 red, a Dutch receipt for, 141 red, to stew, 141 Cabinet pudding, 187 Cakes, balloon, 248 Bath, 240 breakfast, 200 Cheltenham, 240 ginger, 247 luncheon, 251 oat, 247 rice, 247 Savoy biscuit or, 248 INDEX. 325 Dried fruits, 268 Drink for a cough, an excellent, 302 for a fever, 302 imperial, 302 Duck a la Bearnoise, 102 4 puree verte, 103 ragout, 103 salmi, 104 wild, sauce for, 41 Dunnikier orange pndding, 188 Dusselle sauce, 37 Dutch cream, 223 flummery, 247 sauce for cold meat, 21 for fish, 50 ECHAUDIES, des, 244 Eels, matelote of, 62 a la ponlette, 60 spitchcocked, 61 a la Tartare, 61 Egg-cheese, 191 cordial, 303 sauce for fish, 52 vermicelli (Flamande), 162 Eggs i la bonne femme, 101 an bouillon, 164 an soleil, 163 buttered, 161 curried, 164 en caisse, 162 with cheese, 166 farcies, 164 en fricassee, 164 fried, 165 and ham, 162 a la neige, 198 a la Provengale, 162 en puree, 165 sur le plat, 165 timbales of, au jus de per- drix, 163 with truffles, 166 Endive, to stew, 144 Espagnole sauce, 36 FASTNACHT Krapfen, 216 Fig pudding, 181 Filets de macqeraux, 67 de Lievre en poivradc, 113 Fillets of turkey, 101 Fish pie, 72 pudding, 72 sauce, to keep, 29, 30 without butter, 48 soup (Scotch), 17 soup, stock for, 15 Flemish cream, 222 Flounders, 62 Flummery, 297 Dutch, 297 rich, 298 Fondu, 168 Fowl scollops a 1'essence de con- combres, 9S soup or jelly, 293 Frangipane, 212 creme, 189 Friar's chicken, thick, 7 clear, 8 Fricasse'e of beetroot, 151 of chicken, 93 of eggs, 164 Fritters, apple, 201 apricot, 203 currant, 203 en surprise, 203 orange, 202 peach, 202 Prussian, 204 rice, 205 Spanish, 204 strawberry, 202 Fromage cuit, 167 Fruits, crystallised, 279 dried, 268 Furmity, 297 GALLINO curds and whey as in Italy, 308 Game, cold, to dress, 96 to roast, 107 Gateau a la reine, 200 au riz, 175 aux pistaches, 199 de nouilles, 175 de pommes, 213 226 INDEX. Gâteau Napolitaine à la Chantilly, 200 Genoises Glacé à l'Italienne, 200 German omelette, 160 pudding sauce, 208 puffs, 206 rolls, 243 salad, 156 sauce, 23 sauce, 25 Ginger-apple, 270 beer, 262 cakes, 247 cream ice, 234 pop, 262 pudding, 187 to imitate, 270 wine, 260 Gingerbread honeycomb, 246 loaf, 245 Nuremburg, 245 nuts, 246 without butter, 246 Glasgow punch, 258 Gloucester jellies, 292 Godiveau, or veal forcemeat, 127 Gooseberry biscuits, 284 cheese, 284 jam, 283 jelly, 283 pudding, 189 to preserve, 268 wine, green,"261 Grape water-ice, 231 Gravy, brown, for sauces, 34 for game or fowl, 44 of veal, clear, for sauces, 33 Green sauce for boiled chicken, 44; for ducklings, 42 Greengages in brandy, 278 to preserve, 278 Grill, sauce for, 48 Grillon sauee, 50 Grit gruel, 295 Grouse salad, 105 salmi, 101 to roast, 107 sauce, 22 Gruel, barley, 298 Gruel, grit, 295 oatmeal, 295 Gunner's delight, 30 HACHáE sauce, 37 Haddocks a la maître d'hôtel, 58 aux cápres, 58 rizard, 73 with brown sauce (Scotch) 57 Haggis, 122 Ham and eggs, 162 sauce, 36 Hanoverian sauce, 20 Hare collops, 123 filets en poivrade, 113 hashed or stewed, 113 jugged, 102 pie (Scotch), 118 soup, 9 to dress, 85 Haricots à la Bretonne, 133 blancs au jus, 134 Hartshorn jelly, 292 Hasty pudding, 181 Herb ale, 263 Herrings, baked, 70 boiled, 71 in a crust, 71 pickled, 71 red, 74 red, a la Bruxelloise, 73 Hollandaise sauce (a real Dutch receipt), 50 Horseradish sauce, 47 Hotch potch, 4 ICE, barberry water, 231 cherry water, 230 coffee, 232 cream, brown bread, 232 China orange, 234 chocolate, 233 custard, 233 ginger, 234 green tea, 232 orange-flower, 234 plain, 232 pine-apple, 233 330 INDEX. Potato fritters, 120 salad (German), 132 soup, 8, 9 snow, 131 Potatoes à la Lyonnaise, 130 a la maitre d'hôtel, 130 baked, 129 broiled, 128 fried mashed, 129 mashed (Indian), 129. roasted, 128 to boil, 128 Pot au feu, 1 Poulets à l'estragon, 94 à la Tartare, 101 aux petits pois, 93 matelotte de petits, 95 salade de, aux concombres, 157 Poulette sauce, 37 Prince Regent's punch, 259 Provençale sauce, 20 Prussian fritters, 204 Pudding, apple, 189, 190 apricot, 189 arrowroot, 177 batter, 180 baked, 180 black, 125 bread, 181 bread and butter, 180 cabinet, 187 citron, 190 college, 182 custard, 177 custard, baked, 177 fig, 181 ginger, 187 gooseberry, 189 ground-rice custard, 178 hasty, 181 in haste, 182 lemon, 187, 188 lemon custard, 179 macaroni, 179 marmalade, 183 marrow, 183 Monday, 185 muffin, 186 Pudding of fish, 72 orange, 188 orange, Dunnikier, 188 pease, 133 plum, 184 rich, 184 Queen Mab's (cold), 224 ratafia, 186 rice, without eggs, 176 sauces, 208 sago custard, 178 Sir Watkin Wynne's, 183 sponge cake, 182 Sunday, 184 tapioca, 176 poor man's, 176 Tedworth Albert, 182 vermicelli, 179 white, 125 without eggs, 176 Yorkshire, 181 Puff pastry, to make, 209 Puffs, German, 206 lemon, 206 Punch a la Romaine, 257 as made at the Black Tavern, Bristol, 258 brandy, 259 cold, 257 Glasgow, 258 ice, 231 jelly, 218 Nuremburg, 257 Prince Regent's, 259 rum, 258 Purée de navets, 138 r QUEEN MAB's pudding (cold), 234 Quenelles aux truffes, 114 of chicken, 114 RABBITs à la Provençale, 112 boudins of, 114 - hashed or stewed, 113 Racines à la crème, 138 en menu droits, 138 Ramequins, 168 à la Sefton, 169 soufflé, 168 332 INDEX Sauce, anchovy butter, 26 aux c£pres, 53 mix