China and JapanJames D. Johnston


º
///ſ/lº.
-A
–








D →
--
-- - -
| <</
-








The's Wagne rs lith 38 Hudson 5*Philada
SIMMÉ-B00ZEN-NO-KAMI.
ChIEF AM BASSADOR. Tº


TA- -
CHINA AND JAPAN: -
|U. S. 8" -
MURAGAKI-AWAADSI-NO-KAMI. V.
8EC0ND AMBAss A DoR. -





CHINA AND JAPAN:
BEING A NARRATIVE OF THE CRUISE OF THE
U. S. STEAM-FRIGATE POWHATAN,
in the Y e a rºs
1857, '58, '59, AND '60.
INCLUDING AN A C C 0 UNT OF THE
JAPANESE EMBASSY TO THE UNITED STATES.
§llustrath with #ift £ortraits
or T H E
EMBASSADORS AND THEIR PRINCIPAL OFFICIALS
THE UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
University Library
Ann Arbor, Michigan
CAUTION --- Please handle this
care. The paper is


* *
* - - - - * *
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1861, by
CHARLES DESILVER,
in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States for the Eastern
District of Pennsylvania.
* * *
* - -
:


39thitatiſm.
To CoMMODORE JosLAH TATTNALL and CAPT. GEO.
F. PEARSON, U. S. Navy, and to the Officers gene-
rally, who served under their command on board
the U. S. Steam-frigate Powhatan, during her late
cruise on the coasts of China and Japan, this work
is respectfully dedicated, as a slight mark of the
-3 - - - - -
kind and friendly feelings with which they are
regarded by
- THE AUTHOR.
(iii)





PR E FA C E.
YIELDING with unfeigned reluctance to the repeated
and earnest persuasions of friends, who appeared to me to
overrate my capabilities, I consented to gratify not only
them, but, according to Job, the desire of those who count
me as an enemy, by writing a book. It is not a scientific
book—a book of erudite research and statistical records,
nor yet a book replete with eloquence or well-rounded
periods. It is a simple narrative of the most interesting
occurrences, personal, professional, diplomatic, and na-
tional, which came under my observation in the course of
two years and three months' service as the Senior Lieu-
tenant, or Executive Officer, of the Flag-ship of the East
India and China Squadron, during the most eventful era
that has occurred on that station within the last century.
I have written almost entirely from memory, having
only the scanty assistance afforded by my own letters to
my wife during absence. It may, therefore, appear to
those who are already acquainted with the events of the
1 + (v)


vi PRE FA C E.
cruise, that many incidents have been omitted which would
have given additional interest to the narrative; but in the
total absence of notes, and my desire to complete the
undertaking as speedily as possible, that I might be enabled
to meet other pressing engagements, must be found my
excuse for any such defects.
This being my first attempt at authorship, I earnestly
crave the charitable forbearance of critics, promising most
faithfully and cheerfully, not to repeat the infliction upon
their more learned sensibilities.
J. D. Johnston.


C O N T E N T S.
CHAPTER I.
The “Powhatan” is commissioned—ordered to convey ex-
President Pierce and lady to Madeira— Sails with unusual
dispatch—Arrival at Madeira — Hospitalities of J. Howard
March, Esq.-Pleasant stay at Funchal–Departure for St.
Helena—Sight the Canary Islands—Arrival at St. Helena
—Description of an excursion to Longwood—Napoleon's
Tomb–Sail for Cape Town–Collision with a Dutch ship
—Run short of coal—Dangerous situation—Table Bay...Page 31
CHAPTER II.
Arrival at Cape Town—Romantic scenery—Table Mountain
and the Table-cloth—Excursion to Constantia—Remarkable
tree—The vineyards—Manner of expressing the grape juice
—Description of Cape Town—Ascent of the Table Mountain
—Sail for Mauritius—Tombs of Paul and Virginia—Botanical
garden–Sail for Singapore—Accident to machinery— Stop
at Acheen—A suicidal pilot—Arrival at Singapore—Dinner
at the Prussian Consul's—Residence of a Chinese gentleman
—Curious animals—Fight with a tiger—Mixed nationalities
-Religious toleration... . . . . . . . . . . . . . .................. 34
CHA PTER III.
Arrival at Hong Kong—Unfortunate again in a pilot—Ship
stormed by Chinese tailors, compradors, etc.—Com. Tattnall
transfers his flag to Powhatan–Sailing for home of San
Jacinto—A “fast boat”—Old Achin's family—Amusements
at Hong Kong—Rice fields—Sail for Gulf of Pecheelee.... 68
(vii)


viii C O N T ENTS.
C H A PTER IV.
Meet the Mississippi–Arrival at Shanghai– Appearance of
the town—American missionaries—Sail for the Gulf–Steam
frigate Minnesota — Sudden squall—Tragic result—Captain
Dupont's valet kidnapped by the Chinese–Valorous rescue
by his gallant master—Shabby treatment of American officers
on board the gun-boat “Woodcock”—Return of Minister
Reed from Tientsin–Salute to the Fourth of July – Par-
ticipated in by all the foreign men-of-war — Sail for Japan...
CHA PTE R. W.
Arrival at Nagasaki—Lovely scenery—Sham forts — Singular
boats—Visit from Japanese officials—Present of fruits,
poultry, etc., to Commodore Tattnall from the Governor—The
“Jack of Clubs”—Visit to the Governor—Smiling welcome
from the natives—Description of the Governor's residence
—Dress of the high officials—Happy looking people—Their
courteous manners—Female dress—The bazaars—Tempting
goods—Heathen temples—The wax-plant—Japanese riding-
school — Early intercourse with the Dutch—National traits
—Domestic life—Visit of the Governor to the Powhatan —
Liberty to the crew — Extensive purchases by the officers...
C H A PTE R W I.
Sail for Simoda—Magnificent Scenery—Fusi-yama—A Native
Pilot — Description of the place–Visit from Consul-General
Harris—Attention of the Imperial family to Mr. Harris
during his Illness—Lacquer Ware—Proceed to Yedo with
Mr. Harris — Attempt of Japanese officials to head us off–
Commissioners visit the Ship—The Treaty signed—English
Jealousy at the consummation of this event—Return to Si-
moda — Public Bathing-houses — Christian Worship in a
heathen temple—Return to the coast of China
C H A PTE R W II.
Arrival at Woosung—At Shanghai–More sufferings from
Chinese pilots— Chow-chow water—Collision with a French
ship—Cholera and deaths on board–Bearer of despatches


CONTENTS. ix
sent with Japanese Treaty—Visit to the Taou-tai–Chinese
collation—Music—Visit of the Taou-tai to the ship—De-
parture for Woosung—For Nagasaki–Arrival at Nagasaki
—The Minnesota's arrival there with Minister Reed–Donker
Curtius, Dutch Minister—Pic-nic to Mr. Reed–Trip to the
interior—Japanese funeral—Beautiful scenery—Japanese
honesty—Long stay at Nagasaki—Death of the Tycoon—
Temples—Tea-houses—Arrival of Baron Gros— Russian
frigate -- Return to Shanghai, or Woosung....... - - - - - - - - - 144
CHA PTE R W III.
Reach Woosung—Escape from Typhoons—Departure for
Hong Kong–Quick passage—Arrival—Meet the Missis-
sippi and Germantown — The Minnesota arrives—Court
Martial—Dispersion of the Squadron–Trip to Whampoa-
Canton—“Chops”—Chinese pirates—Christmas on board a
man-of-war—Arrival at Macao—Give liberty to the crew—
Wretched accommodations on shore—The Cave of Camoens
— Luxuriant Valley—Sail for Hong Kong–Quick trip over
— Return to Macao—The 22d of February–Hong Kong
again — The Mississippi sent to Japan — Rumors of War —
Orders from Navy Department—Towing of Germantown —
Sail for Singapore............. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ... 105
C IIA PTER IX.
Arrival at Singapore—Lord Elgin—H.B.M. S. Esk—Rainy
Weather—Sail for Malacca—Our English Pilot—An impartial
“empire”—Arrival at Malacca —Description of Town and
Country—Visit to the Shore—Entertainment on board—
Ancient Ruins—The native town—Ball at the Stadt-house
—Seedy Beaux—Low Tides—Detention of the Ship—Sail
for Penang–Arrival at Penang–Ball on board—Visit to
Government Hill–Beautiful Scenery—The Town—Climate
and Productions—Province of Wellesley–Admiral Hope
and the British Minister—The “Chesapeake”—Naval Titles
—Salutes—Arrival of the Minister — Entertainments on
Shore—Sail for Hong Kong–Minister's Character—Arrival
at Hong Kong—Charter of Toeywan–More Passengers—
Sail for Shanghai... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180


x con TENTs.
CHA PTE R X.
Sail for Ningpo with chartered steamer in tow—Insufficiency
of our Naval force—The Chusan Islands—Ningpo-Another
passenger – Bad weather—Heavy rolling—Ship ashore—
Receive a pilot and get off—Anchor near Woosung—Visit
to Shanghai–Escort of Minister Ward to visit the Imperial
Commissioners—Return of his Visit—Delay at Shanghai–
The Allied Envoys—Arrival and departure of the Allied
forces bound to the Gulf of Pecheelee – Hon. Townsend
Harris–Sail for the Gulf–Preliminaries of the battle of
Taku–Description of same—Flag-officer Tattnall's conduct
on the occasion — Reciprocal courtesies between that officer
and Admiral Hope—Appearance of the scene of action the
following day — The Chinese defences—Visit to Pehtang—
Sympathy with the English—Their gallant conduct—The
Fourth of July.... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - - - - - - - - - - - - ... 216
CHAPTER XI.
Interesting incidents connected with departure of Embassy
to Peking—Mr. Ward's interviews with Hangfuh–Chinese
soldiery—Pehtang—Withdrawal of Allied forces from the
Gulf—Arrival of Governor-General of Siberia in Russian
steamer America–His visit to Pehtang in the Toeywan—
Preparations for departure of the Embassy–The names of
those who composed it—Chinese “chariots”—Horrible roads
— The Embassy on the Peiho-Tungchau–Arrival at the
Capital—Interviews with the Commissioners—Long discus-
sion on the ceremonies of an audience with the Emperor—
Slight concession to Mr.Ward—Changes from former usages
—Chinese estimation of the Emperor's character—Mr.Ward's
refusal to kneel before him—The Kotau—Chinese incredulity
and duplicity—The Russian Minister—Disappointment—
Kweiliang's quandary—Mr.Ward's solution—The President's
letter—The Emperor's rescript—Kweiliang and Hwashana—
Return of Embassy to Pehtang—Exchange of the Treaty—
Death of Rev. Mr. Aitchison–Sail for Shanghai– “Short
commons” during the absence of the Embassy ........ ... . 245


CONTENTS. X1
CHA PTE R XII.
Remarks on the Occurrences in the Gulf of Pecheelee—Arrival
at Woosung—Reply of the Emperor of China to the Presi-
dent's letter—Sail for Nagasaki, with Minister Ward on
board—Unique suit of Armor— Accident to the Machinery
—Sail for Kanagawa—Yokuhama—Rapid growth of the
latter place—Arrival at Yedo—Description of the place—
Police arrangements—Residences of the hereditary Princes
—Trade between Japan and Shanghai–Sail for Hong Kong
—Arrival of the Hartford—Preparations for the Embassy on
board the Powhatan–Sail for Kanagawa..... ............ 274
CHA PTE R XIII.
Arrival at Yokuhama—Visit of the Embassadors to the Ship—
Lieutenant Brooke ordered to the Candimar–Fire in Yoku-
hama—It is rebuilt on a larger scale—Agreeable visit to the
Prime Minister— Handsome Presents — Cordial Adieux—
Romantic Adventure of the Chaplain — Embarkation of the
Embassy—List of the officials—Sailing of the Candimar —
Delay of the Powhatan—The Currency Question—Final
Departure from Japan................. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 309
CHAPTER XIV.
The Japanese at sea—Visit of the Embassadors to the ward-
room—The “Japs” maintain a polite reserve, and manifest
an inquiring spirit–Brief sketch of the principal Officials
—Tommy—Arrival at Honolulu—Delight of the Passengers
—Presentation at Court—The King and Queen—Ball at Dr.
Guillou's—Incidents on shore—Enthusiastic artists—Enter-
tainments on shore—Sail from Honolulu — Arrive at San
Francisco—Great enthusiasm among the Residents—Hospita-
ble treatment—The freedom of the City extended—The
Candimar and Lieutenant Brooke—Flag-officer Tattnall's
departure for New York in the Mail steamer—Sailing of
the Powhatan for Panama............................... 335


xii CC, NT ENTS.
CHAPTER XV.
Passage to Panama–Transfer of the Embassy to the Roanoke—
Arrival at Sandy Hook—Sail for Hampton Roads—The Em-
bassadors Welcomed by Committee of Reception from
Washington—Visit Fortress Monroe–Leave for the Capital
—Arrival at the Navy Yard—Greatenthusiasm excited among
all classes—Official Reception by the President–Ball at
the Secretary of State’s–Conference with Medical Men—
Visit the Capitol—Navy Yard—Leave for Baltimore—Phila-
delphia—Visit the Mint—Firemen's Parade—Leave for New
York–Princely Hospitalities—Magnificent Ball–Sail for
CHAPTER XVI.
The Empire of Japan—Its physical and geological formation
—Government—Religious Orders—Revenue–Population
–Manufactures—Wegetable productions—Animals—Man-
ners and Customs of the people—Speculations on the pro-
bable results of the Embassy to the United States, etc.......
APPENDIX.
I. Correspondence relative to the action of Flag-officer Tatt-
mall at the Peiho river, June, 1859............... ...
II. Treaty of Tientsin....................................
III. Treaty of Yedo.......................................
391


CHINA AND JAPAN.
C EIAPTER I.
The “Powhatan” is commissioned—Ordered to convey ex-President
Pierce and lady-to Madeira—Sails with unusual dispatch—
Arrival at Madeira — Hospitalities of J. Howard March, Esq.-
Pleasant stay at Funchal–Departure for St. Helena—Sight the
Canary Islands — Arrival at St. Helena—Description of an
excursion to Longwood—Napoleon's Tomb—Sail for Cape Town
—Collision with a Dutch ship – Run short of coal—Dangerous
situation —Table Bay.
ON the 23d day of November, 1857, the steam frigate
Powhatan was commissioned at the Navy Yard, Gosport,
Virginia, for a cruise of two years as the flag-ship of the
East India Squadron, and placed under command of Capt.
Geo. F. Pearson.
The agreeable duty of conveying ex-President Pierce
and his estimable lady to the island of Madeira, having
been imposed upon her officers by the Hon. Secretary of
the Navy, gave an additional incentive to their profes-
sional zeal in expediting, as much as possible, the depart-
ure of the ship on the service for which she had been
designated; and in the course of thirteen days she was
fully equipped and organized as a first-class steam frigate.
2 (13)


14 DEPARTURE OF THE POW HATAN.
On the 7th of December, at 10 A.M., the ex-President
was received on board, accompanied by Mrs. Pierce and
numerous friends, and in honor of the high position so
recently held by our distinguished passenger, the yards
were manned, and the American flag was displayed at the
main, while a full guard of marines presented arms, and
the band struck up the national air as he came over the
side. The hour of our departure arriving, a hasty leave
was taken of our friends, and under a salute of twenty-
one guns from the “Pennsylvania,” the “Powhatan" was
released from the chains and shackles by which she had
so long been confined to the dull monotony of the land,
and moved proudly and majestically towards her more
congenial element—the ocean; commencing thus auspici-
ously one of the most interesting and probably, with
reference to future events, important cruises, ever per-
formed by any vessel in the Navy—up to the period of
her arrival at Panama, on the 24th day of April, 1860,
with the first diplomatic Embassy ever sent from the
Empire of Japan.
A slight accident to the machinery prevented our final
departure from Hampton Roads until the 11th of Decem-
ber, on which day we bade farewell to the Capes of
Virginia, our eyes slightly dimmed, perhaps, with natural
grief at parting for years, it might be forever, from home
and friends, and yet mingled with the sad thoughts which
oppressed our hearts, came pleasant anticipations of a
prosperous voyage, with the cheering consciousness of
being engaged in the performance of duties by which we
might gain honor to ourselves, and reflect credit on our
glorious country.
During the passage to Madeira nothing of interest
occurred to break the monotony of ocean life. On board


AN IN COMPET ENT STE WARD, 15
ship everything goes on with the mechanical regularity
of clock-work, and the stated calls of duty dispel, in some
degree, the ennui which a landsman would find intoler-
ably oppressive. The meal hours form the great events,
and, to some, the sole pleasures of the day, and every-
thing which militates against their enjoyment is, of course,
regarded as a heavy misfortune. Great, therefore, was
the disgust, and prodigious the growling of the ward-
room officers of the Powhatan, when a few days' experi-
ence revealed the appalling fact that the steward, who
had been engaged under very flattering testimonials, and
who professed to be an adept in the art of affording solace
and comfort to the “inner man,” was totally incompetent
to perform the great and responsible duties of his position.
Such wretched fare I have never seen before in a ward-
room mess—everything was prepared in the most untidy,
greasy manner, from a broiled chicken to a rice pudding,
and some of the most extraordinary dishes were served
up to us which were ever presented to a civilized palate;
probably our English dough-head of a steward might
have eaten such in the coal mines of the old country, but
it would be a national insult to suggest the idea of their
ever being known to American stomachs—a description
of the rare and curious dishes displayed on our table
during the early days of the cruise, might gratify the
curiosity of some of my readers, but would assuredly
spoil the appetites of all, and, therefore, I shall doubtless
be readily excused for not describing more minutely each
dish, and the manner of its composition.
I have frequently noticed that the majority of travellers
take great pleasure in forcing the “gentle reader” (who
in most cases has his temper severely tried) to share with
them in all the discomforts of their journey—if they find
-


16 A FFA BILITY OF GENERAL PIER CE.
their beds occupied by a busy race who go in for “squatter
sovereignty”—if they suspect the edibles provided for
their table to consist of “rats and mice, and such small
deer”—if their olfactories are assailed by disgusting odors,
all is noted down and served up to the public with a
graphic power and minuteness of detail, which goes far
to exemplify the principle that “misery loves company.”
But I belong to a different class, being naturally kind
and considerate for others; therefore, I shall touch lightly
on the disagreeables of the voyage, but become genial
and communicative when there is anything pleasant to
relate, and by this politic course, perhaps my “reader”
and I will be able to jog along to the close of the book in
friendly companionship.
We had frequent visits in the ward-room from our dis-
tinguished passenger, General Pierce, and all were charmed
with the ease and affability with which he at once adapted
himself to the new style of association into which he had
suddenly been thrown. He seemed to appreciate at its
full value his release from the thraldom of official respon-
sibility, and to enjoy, with genial zest, the sooiety of the
officers generally, every one of whom would have voted
for his restoration to the elevated position he had so
recently filled, had he been a candidate at the time of our
arrival at Madeira. Mrs. Pierce was confined to her
cabin, the greater part of the voyage, by sea-sickness and
general debility; but when the weather admitted of her
appearance on deck, she seemed to enjoy the novelty of
her situation, and to receive with grateful pleasure the
sympathizing attentions of those who approached her.
Notwithstanding our unfortunate selection of a steward,
we contrived to get up quite a stylish entertainment in
the ward-room in the way of a dinner to the General and


HOS PITALITY OF M R. MARCH. 17
his lady, at which, of course, the Captain was present; and
for aught they knew to the contrary, we might have been
blessed with the services of the celebrated Downing, of
Broadway celebrity.
The weather was generally good, and we accomplished
the run in less than seventeen days, having been detained
about three hours, on the third day out, in supplying the
American bark “Orlando" with provisions.
The day following our arrival, General Pierce and his
lady left the ship to become the guests of J. Howard
March, Esq., our venerable and excellent consul at Fun-
chal. Previous to his departure the General delivered a
brief but eloquent address to the officers and crew, to
which, Captain Pearson responded with the frank and
cordial feeling of an honest, true-hearted sailor.
Our brief stay at Funchal was rendered particularly
pleasant by the princely hospitalities of Mr. March. The
reputation of this gentleman, as a liberal and most agree-
able host, is world wide; and I can add but little to what
has been already said in his praise by all who have en-
joyed his society, or received the freedom of his luxurious
abode. He has acquired a large fortune by the sale of
the best wines formerly produced here, and of which he
seems to have retained a very respectable stock for the
consumption of his friends—being himself one of the most
abstemious of men—more from necessity than choice,
however.
Many of the officers of the Powhatan were old ac-
quaintances of Mr. March, and when on shore made his
abode “head-quarters.” The zest with which we partook
of his good cheer seemed to gratify him exceedingly, and
none of us are likely soon to forget that broad circular
... table, nor the cordial welcome with which our appearance
2 * * B º


18 VISIT TO THE ‘‘GRAND Cor AL.”
around it was always greeted by the genial host. The
contrast between the delicate viands presented to our
palates there, and the abominations prepared by the im-
postor who had been shipped as our steward, was pecu-
liarly striking and agreeable, after seventeen days of
suffering at his merciless hands.
While at Funchal we visited the “Grand Coral,” which
is the most striking and universal point of interest in the
vicinity of the city. The view consists of a shuddering
look down a deep ravine between two precipitous moun-
tain sides, with the clouds whirling about one's head in
the most distracted and distracting manner. The scenery
is of the wildest and most picturesque character; lofty
cliffs on every side, and jagged peaks rising boldly from
the base of the surrounding hills, as if in defiance of the
vapory clouds which rest on their summits, while old
ocean rolls proudly and placidly in view on each side of
the island, forming a fitting frame for the grand and
glorious landscape. The road leading to this point is
wide and smooth, though somewhat precipitous, passing
often between lofty cliffs, or along the front of precipices
overhanging the sea; it becomes so very steep before
reaching the highest point, as to render it impracticable
to ascend on horseback, accustomed as the animals of the
island are to climbing its mountain sides. These horses
are always attended by a groom, who is so completely
identified with the animal as to bring to mind the fabu-
lous centaur of the ancients; contriving to keep pace
with it by seizing hold of the tail when the rider
chooses to accelerate his speed, which is often mischiev-
ously done to a degree which keeps the pedestrian fol-
lower in a half gallop great part of the way. Ridiculous
as such an appendage may seem to the equipment of a


A MADEIRA EQUIPAGE. 19
gallant equestrian, his attendance is not altogether to be
despised, as in the event of any accident to the horse or
his trappings, the services of this faithful ally become
invaluable.
The ride to the church of Nostra Senhora del Monte,
situated 1200 feet above the city, and in full view from
the anchorage, is one of the most novel and interesting
I have ever experienced, not only on account of the
beautiful and varied scenery presented to the view during
the ascent, but for the manner in which the return trip
is accomplished; the descent, which is not without danger,
is made in a style of vehicle peculiar to the island, which
is a cross between a four-wheeled coach and a woods-
man's sled. The runners upon which the coach body is
placed are shod with iron, and the road being paved with
small smooth stones, it is only necessary to give a slight
impetus to the hybrid contrivance to insure its reaching
the bottom of the hill in the shortest possible space of
time. Fortunately the driver—if the term applies to one
whose only office consists in restraining the oxen instead
of urging them forward—has the power of checking
their “mad career” by giving them a sudden turn occa-
sionally into open spaces, or terraces levelled off on either
side of the road for this purpose; otherwise, there is no
doubt that numerous accidents of a serious and fatal
character would occur in making this grand slide. The
effect is highly exhilirating, once in a while, but, generally
speaking, I must confess a different style of stimulant
would be preferred by me in the way of amusement.
The mountain steeps of Madeira are covered with rich
and luxuriant vegetation. Terraces are everywhere
visible, and every available and accessible spot is made
to yield its quota to man's support. The culture of the


20 CDIMATE AND PRODUCTIONs of MADEIRA.
grape formerly made the chief wealth of the island, but
has now been totally abandoned, and the sugar-cane waves
its graceful leaves where the Bacchanalian vine so long
held sway, and made one's mouth water in contemplation
of the delicious fluids to be extracted from its fruit. The
disease which in 1852 destroyed the vines, has proved
incurable, and the cultivation of the grape has been un-
willingly relinquished by the owners of the soil, for the
less profitable and congenial production of sugar, though
as yet to no considerable extent.
The climate is equable and healthy in an extraordinary
degree, the temperature being 65°, which makes the
island a favorite resort for sufferers with pulmonary
complaints; and during the winter season the foreign
society at Funchal is numerous and attractive.
Fruits and vegetables belonging to both the tropical
and temperate zones are grown in great abundance and
perfection. In the lower portions of the island, groves
of orange and lemon trees are seen; above, we find
bananas, figs, pomegranates, etc.; and still higher, the
fruits of the temperate zone, namely: apples, currants,
pears, and peaches. Coffee, wheat, rye, Indian corn, etc.,
are also raised, but not for exportation.
The women of the island are justly celebrated for the
neatness and delicacy of their needle-work, in the way
of laces and embroideries, and they not only meet with
a ready sale for their manufactures among the foreigners
making a temporary stay in their midst, but there is a
considerable export of the produce of their industry to
Brazil, and other countries, in a quiet way.
But I am lingering too long in this modern paradise,
and must, perforce, tear myself away. The good ship is
now ready for another trial of her metal, and the new


THE CAN A R Y ISLANDS. 21
year has commenced with smiles upon her onward track
across the wilderness of waters lying between this and
the next destined haven. Accordingly, on the 6th of
January, 1858, we bade adieu to the pleasing associations
formed at Funchal, and on the passage thither, turning
our thoughts reluctantly to the grim and dismal shores
of the barren spot connected in history with one of the
most famous of military heroes, and the most infamous
of national decrees.
On the third morning after leaving Madeira we passed
within three miles of the eastern extremity of the island
of Palma (one of the Canaries), going under sail alone,
at the rate of nine knots, having removed the paddles
from our wheels as soon as we struck the N. E. trade-
wind, which occurred within thirty hours from the time
of our sailing. We continued under sail from the 9th to
the 15th of January, by which time we reached the lat.
10° N., where the trade-wind had become so light as to
make it necessary to replace the paddles—eighty miles
in twenty-four hours being considered rather slow pro-
gress for a first-class steamer. Under steam again, and
the weather proving propitious, the good ship appeared
to realize that she was in her natural element, and to
dash through it with a power and speed that made her
seem like “a thing of life.” The ordinary routine of
duties on board a man-of-war engrossed the attention of
officers and crew, and gave rise to no incidents worthy
of record on the passage. There was the usual amount
of “growling” at caterer, steward, and cook, which
always follows the hurried organization of a large mess
of officers, and which eventually produced its desired
result in the shape of a total change of administration;
accomplished, however, in the same peaceable manner in


22 A R RIVAL AT ST. HELENA.
which such changes are effected in the General Govern-
ment of our happy country—barring the black eyes and
bloody noses which seem to be thought necessary, in
order to make our too frequently recurring election days
go off with proper éclat.
At about meridian, on the 27th of January, the cry
of “Land ho!” from the mast head, dispelled the feeling
of ennui which was beginning to be felt on board under
the monotonous state of things to which routine had
reduced us. Going to sea in steamers is apt to render
one impatient, and induce the rather presumptuous idea
that three weeks of salt water and blue sky is decidedly
tiresome. It is only by contrasting their experience in
sailing vessels with that in steamers, that even sea-faring
men can fully estimate the advantages of the latter, and
reconcile themselves to the inevitable coal-dust and soiled
decks; the two great evils with which officers of steamers
have to contend—a clean ship being regarded as a sine
qua non.
The rocky peaks of the desolate, ocean-washed island
of St. Helena, rose rapidly on the distant horizon, and
the interesting historical associations with which they are
connected gave an additional impulse to the excitement
produced by the mere fact of our near approach to an
anchorage, and, to descend from the sublime to the
ridiculous—“fresh grubſ” The port of Jamestown is
by no means difficult to discover, or to enter, as it is
situated near the centre of the island, which is little
more than ten miles in length—the town lies on its N. W.
shore, in one of the numerous ravines interspersed among
the rugged hills and mountains of which it is formed.
There is excellent anchorage in the roadstead, the island
forming a lee to keep off the force and swell of the S. E.


THE “PEAK of DIAN A.” . 23
trade-wind; and its convenient location in the track of
vessels bound either to the eastward or northward, renders
it a very important “half-way house" for replenishing
supplies of water and provisions. Strong fortifications
on each side of the anchorage guard the approach to the
town—the one on “Ladder Hill” being elevated nearly
700 feet above the sea level. A flight of 650 steps leads
from this hill to the town below, which I had the fatiguing
pleasure of descending in company with some of the
officers of the fort.
The island is of volcanic origin, and consists of rugged
mountains, hills, and peaks, several of which assume
curious and fantastic forms; the highest of these is situ-
ated near its centre, and called the “Peak of Diana,”
rising to an altitude of 2700 feet—there are two other
remarkable peaks on the south coast reaching the height
of over 1400 feet, which have been named “Lot” and
“Lot's wife,” from some fanciful resemblance to the pillar
of salt into which the latter was turned as a punishment
for her curiosity, and a warning to succeeding generations
of the fair sex to abstain from prying into forbidden
things; a lesson which, I regret to say, they do not yet
seem to have profitably learned. There is a limestone
ridge running through the island near its centre, from E.
to W., and on the northern side of this ridge the land is
rugged and sterile, but contains several tolerably level
tracts which, during the season when moisture is abund-
ant, are covered with rich verdure. The largest of these
tracts is “Longwood,” where Napoleon had his residence.
The climate is temperate and genial, the mean tempera-
ture of the year being 61° 3. Earthquakes are frequently
felt on the island, and strange upheavings of the ocean
have occasionally occurred, indicating subterranean com-


24 ROMANTIC SCENERY.
motion. One of the most remarkable of these took place
February 17, 1849, when the sea suddenly became agi-
tated as if by a heavy storm, and many vessels were torn
from their moorings and dashed upon the beach. St.
Helena has no commerce, being unable even to supply its
own wants, and the only traffic consists in furnishing
supplies to calling vessels. It was once a possession of
the East India Company, but now belongs to the British
crown; population about 5000, of whom nearly one half
are whites, the larger portion being Indians and negroes.
In company with two of my messmates, I had a glori-
ous ride among the romantic hills and valleys of the
place, from which we should have derived a degree of
delight to which we had long been strangers, even had
the charm of association been wanting. The road was
excellent, leading up the sides of the hills immediately to
the westward of the town, and thence along their sum-
mits until another and higher range was reached, along
the side of which a wide and beautiful carriage drive had
been cut, presenting at various points the most refreshing
views of the valleys beneath us, and of the blue expanse
of ocean in the distance. Notwithstanding the exhilira-
tion of the ride, however, and the beauty and brightness
of the surrounding scenery, an indescribable sensation of
gloom and depression would occasionally steal over me—
my thoughts reverted to the greatest hero of modern
times—to him whose fame once filled the world, and the
closing scenes of whose life afforded to it one of the most
wonderful examples of the vanity of all human greatness
and ambition. Who that had witnessed Napoleon's glory
in its noontide splendor would have predicted that his
sun would set in gloom and desolation | I thought of
the scenes of which the hills around had been the silent


REM IN ISC ENCES OF NA POLEON I. 25
witnesses;–the brave warrior—the wise statesman—the
mighty monarch, bound and helpless in the power of his "
enemies—he whose will had shaken the thrones of Europe
—for whose ambition the sceptre of the world seemed too
small, yielded up his spirit in this isolated spot, an exile
and a captive! Far from his beloved and beautiful
France, the closing scene of the great drama of his life
was here played out; —the sword doomed to rust in in-
glorious idleness outwore its sheath—and the great heart
broke which could never be taught to bend;—leaving to
mankind the impressive lesson that all earthly power and
greatness is but for an allotted time—that “passing
away" is written on the world and all that it contains—
and that God alone is the Eternal Ruler of the universe,
and gives the kingdoms of the earth to whomsoever He
will
After riding four or five miles by a somewhat circuitous
route, we came upon the broad plain called Longwood,
near the centre of which stands the dilapidated, old-
fashioned country house in which the great Emperor
Napoleon I. spent the last six years of his eventful life,
from 1815 to 1821. The approach to it leads through
an avenue of old, half-decayed trees, for the distance of a
mile, and as we drove beneath their leafless branches, we
thought of the departed glory of the wonderful man, who,
in years gone by, had ruminated in bitter sadness on his
cruel imprisonment, as he paced with the heavy footsteps
of care the same ground over which we were so hastily
passing.
Reaching the dwelling, we entered the front door of a
single-storied house, built of stone, in the cottage style
of the times, and found ourselves in the parlor where the
dethroned Emperor once received his visitors: immedi-
3


26 NAPoleon's “NEw Hous E.”
ately back of this was his bed-chamber, the centre of
which, at the time of our visit, was occupied by a wheat
fan. When we alighted from the carriage our party had
been joined by a squalid urchin of about a dozen years,
who volunteered his services as cicerone, and learning
from him the precise spot where the Emperor's bedstead
had once stood, we proceeded to cut small splinters from
the rafters and window-sills in its immediate vicinity, as
souvenirs of the past. Presuming that my readers are
generally acquainted, by description, with the character
and dimensions of this once-famous house, I shall not re-
quire them to follow me into the dusty, mouldering dining-
room and library, or into the neglected court-yard, filled
with pigs, chickens, and dirt, where once existed cleanli-
ness, order, and the fragrance of flowers, watched over by
the tender solicitude of one whose active life had been
spent in the “tented field,” but who now resigned the
review of armies for that of Nature's beauties.
Leaving this dreary spot, we passed into the grounds
surrounding the “new house” built by the English for
Napoleon's accommodation, but which he could never be
persuaded to occupy; it is much larger and more conve-
niently arranged than the old dwelling, and is now the
property of a wealthy citizen of the island. From this
we paid a hasty visit to a small farm-house in the adjoin-
ing valley—which we were very politely invited to enter
by the lady who occupied it, and complied, of course,
with all the grace we could command. We were introduced
to a buxom young girl of fifteen, as the daughter of the
house, and soon had placed before us a large waiter of
delicious grapes and peaches, with which we became ac-
quainted quite as readily as with the ladies. The young
gentleman of the party (Dr. S-, of the Powhatan)


NA Pol EoN's To M. B. 27
was remarkably handsome, and I have always considered
that we were greatly indebted to this fortunate circum-
stance for the hospitable manner in which we were enter-
tained. After half an hour's agreeable chat in the house,
we were shown into the romantic little garden running
up into the valley in its rear, and kept rambling among
the fruits and flowers until the approach of sunset warned
us that we had five miles to travel before dark, and we
therefore, bade a reluctant adieu to our fair friends, and
the picturesque and lovely spot they had chosen for their
abode.
As the valley in which the tomb of Napoleon was
placed lay but a short distance from the road to James-
town, our driver was ordered to take us to that celebrated
spot with all convenient expedition, and only a few min-
utes elapsed before he politely informed us that it would
be necessary to dismount and walk a quarter of a mile
from the road down into the bottom of the valley. There
we found a small piece of ground partly enclosed by what
had once been a paling fence, but could scarcely be recog-
nized as anything in the shape of a fence at that time.
In the centre of this shadowy enclosure stood a small
stone structure resembling a vault above ground, and
having a door leading to a shallow excavation below; this
we entered, and gazed on the spot where the coffin had
been placed holding the mortal remains of the great
Napoleon. Yielding thoughtlessly to a momentary im-
pulse, the barbarous practice for which our countrymen
generally have acquired an unenviable distinction, was
followed by the party, and small chips of stone were
ruthlessly broken from the slabs forming the bottom and
sides of this primitive style of vault, and after a brief


28 VISIT TO AN IN WA LID.
indulgence in the moral reflections called up by the spot,
we returned to our vehicle, not unwilling to hasten away
from a gloomy scene, and one so uncongenial to our feel-
ings and sympathies at the moment.
The considerable descent of the road from the plain of
Longwood, and the rapid manner in which we returned,
made it appear a much shorter trip than our ride out,
and finding that we had a little spare time, we availed
ourselves of the opportunity to pay a brief visit to an
invalid messmate who was rusticating, during our stay
at the island, in a small country tavern at “Hutt's Gate,”
a former barrier to intruders upon the grounds at Long-
wood. We rejoiced to find him improving under the
kind attentions of a smiling landlady, who made her ap-
pearance with a baby in her arms, and numerous more
advanced specimens of the same genus prattling and
capering around her, apparently endeavoring to keep time
with the cackling hens and quacking ducks in the adjoin-
ing yard. We pledged our friend's health in a small
glass of bad brandy, at a large price, offered our con-
gratulations at his having found such hilarious and musi-
cal quarters, and leaving him to the full enjoyment of
all his privileges, we hastened our return to the great
element of our profession—salt water. Our “homeward
bound” horses needed no urging to whirl us with most
exhilirating speed along the smooth, descending road,
giving us an opportunity to catch nothing more than a
passing glimpse of “the Briars,” on the other side of the
ravine, along whose eastern edge our road lay. A little
after sunset we found ourselves again within the “wooden
walls” of our noble ship, relating the incidents of the
day's experience to those of our messmates who had
been confined on board by duty.


A NEW PASSENGER. 29
The steam frigate “Mississippi" had preceded us only
a few months in our visit to this place, being also on her
way to China as one of the squadron on that station—
and had taken on board the entire supply of coal kept on
shore by the United States consul for the use of our
steamers; we were consequently forced to replenish our
almost empty bunkers with very indifferent English coal,
purchased from a merchant who still more unfortunately
had only about 200 tons on hand, when we required twice
that amount. There was no alternative, however, but to
continue our voyage, trusting to favorable weather and
an economical expenditure of our “black diamonds,” to
enable us to accomplish the usual passage of nine days to
the Cape of Good Hope.
Captain Peel, of the Royal Artillery, stationed at the
fort on “Ladder Hill,” made application to Captain
Pearson, through me, for a passage to Cape Town in the
ward-room mess, and his request being cheerfully granted
on all sides, he came on board in the afternoon of the 1st
of February, when our good ship was got under way at
about 7 P.M., and we steamed gallantly toward the
eastern end of the island, called Sugar-loaf Point.
There was a nice little Dutch clipper-ship, built of iron,
lying at anchor just under the lee of this point, and
riding with her head toward the island. In order to
avoid running too near the land it was deemed necessary
to pass under the Dutchman's stern, giving him, however,
a judiciously wide berth; but, unfortunately, he got under
way at the very moment that we had approached too
near his vessel to alter our course so as to pass ahead
of her, and the only way of avoiding a serious collision,
was to put our helm hard a-starboard and endeavor to
get away from her, by which means we escaped with a
3 *


30 SOUTH-EAST TRADE-WINDS.
slight scratching along the port quarter, and our blind
friend, who failed to discover three strong lights ap-
proaching him from the distance of a mile, lost his bow-
sprit and other head-spars. This little contretemps com-
pelled us to return to our anchorage, having sent a boat
to the Dutchman, and learned the extent of damage he
had received, which our commander desired to remedy so
far as it was in his power to do so, although he considered
that we were in no degree accountable for the accident.
The following morning, having furnished the necessary
spars and rigging to repair his awkward misfortune, we
left him to make the best of his way to Holland, while
we made another start, this time by daylight, upon our
ill-omened passage to the Cape.
Rounding Sugar-loaf Point, we soon felt the force of
the S. E. trades, and accordingly went to work at once
to make the ship as “snug" as possible, as a measure
both of expediency and economy. The sails were unbent,
topmasts housed, and the lower yards brought down from
their usual elevation to a short distance above the ship's
gunwales; this greatly reduced the resistance to our pro-
gress, but the road was decidedly “stumpy,” and, like
Jordan, “hard to travel;" yet the good ship pitched in to
the opposing waves with pugnacious pertinacity, until we
reached a point about 450 miles from our destined port,
when the unhappy discovery was suddenly made that the
quantity of coal remaining on board was entirely too
small to justify us in attempting to steam that distance
against a strong head wind and sea. Recourse was im-
mediately had to the spars and sails which had been so
contemptuously cast aside a few days previously, and but
for the unfortunate detention of our English friend, who
had leave for only a month's absence, there would have


THE POWHATAN UNDER SAIL. 31
been no very serious objections made by the officers
generally, to the opportunity thus afforded of making a
fair trial of the ship's qualities as a sailing vessel. We
continued to steam on our course until the necessary pre-
parations for making sail were effected, and as soon as
they were completed the paddles were again removed
from the wheels, which were securely lashed, and the
“Powhatan” became to all intents and purposes a “clip-
per ship,” though with two somewhat remarkable protu-
berances on her sides, which we generally denominate
“wheel-houses,” and the English call “paddle-boxes.”
The wind and sea continuing to be as adverse as possible,
we were compelled to resort to the tedious and comfort-
less process of “beating to windward,” but the handsome
manner in which the good ship came up to the work in
her new character, was so gratifying to all on board, that
we were disposed to make the best of our situation, and
practised patience with so much vigor and success, that
had the voyage under difficulties continued a few months
longer, many of us would have become qualified to give
lectures on all the cardinal virtues, and this one in par-
ticular, for the benefit of decayed naval officers and their
families. Our evenings were passed pleasantly in the
ward room, playing chess, dominoes, and rounce, in all
which we were joined with cordial good will by our
jolly English passenger. All were agreeably surprised
at the fine performance of the ship, it being generally
supposed that a large, heavy, side-wheel steamer will cut
about as sorry a figure in tacking, wearing, and sailing,
as an elephant in a polka.
We struggled against the manifold obstacles to our
progress, growing out of the hasty manner in which we
were compelled to rig the ship for sailing, and the acci-


32 AN ACCII) ENT.
dents occasioned by bad iron-work, during eight days—
by which time we had reached the coast near Saldanha
Bay. One of the accidents occurring is worth relating.
The wind having become rather too fresh on one occasion
to carry whole topsails, the order was given to take in a
reef, and while hoisting them after the performance of
this evolution, the bolt to which the runner of the topsail
halliards was hooked, drew from its place, and the main-
topsail yard came down suddenly with great force upon
the cap. A man by the name of Robert Weston, who was
standing on the yard at the time, was thrown off, but in
descending head downwards with the yard, his foot caught
between it and the studding-sail boom, holding him fast
in that perilous position until he was extricated by the
men in the maintop. He gave unmistakeable evidence
while thus hanging by his “understanding” that his
lungs were in sound condition, and as he had almost
miraculously escaped serious injury, he was at his post
again after remaining two or three days on the “doctor's
list.”
The project was discussed among the officers of the
ship, of endeavoring to effect an entrance into this fine
bay (Saldanha), and sending to Cape Town for coal, but
the wind seemed by no means disposed to permit the in-
dulgence of this idea, as it fell gradually away to a dead
calm, and left us to wallow in the tremendous swell it had
created, completely at the mercy of the strong current
setting in the direction of the land, which, at 8 P.M., on
the 18th of February, was found to be less than thirty
miles distant. Under these circumstances it became
necessary to consider by what means we were to avoid
too close a proximity with the solid earth we had so long
struggled in vain to reach, and it was decided, without


ROUGH WEATHER. 33
much hesitation, in a consultation between the Captain,
the master, and executive officer, to replace the paddles
and give the ship fair play in her efforts to escape from
what might become, before morning, a somewhat perilous
position.
The ship rolled heavily in the trough of the sea the
whole night, retarding materially the operation of screw-
ing on the nuts to secure the paddles to the rim of the
wheels, almost double the time usually occupied being con-
sumed before we could venture to put them in motion,
and it was nearly four o'clock in the morning before we
were fairly under way, standing directly out from the
land. As I looked around me in the gray mist of the
early dawn, and beheld the sea breaking over the rocks
at the distance of about two miles under our lee, com-
pletely covering them as it dashed furiously against their
grim and spectral forms, I felt, with all on board, that it
was an exceedingly pleasant thing to realize, that we had
a power working for our deliverance from this ugly spot,
in whose efficacy we could place unlimited confidence.
The sun soon rose in unclouded splendor, and beyond
the rocks surrounding “Dassen Island,” which had well
nigh proved “the lion in our path,” we beheld the green
and pleasant hills in the distance; the sight of which pro-
duced on us, in some degree, the tantalizing effect which
our first parents must have experienced in wistfully re-
garding the bright fields of Paradise, to which the
“flaming sword” of the angel barred their return. Our
escape from imminent danger, however, was too gratifying
to permit the indulgence of vain regrets, and with light
hearts, we steamed briskly toward our long-sought haven
—Table Bay.
C


34 TA B L E M O U NTA IN.
CHA PTER II.
Arrival at Cape Town—Romantic scenery—Table Mountain and
the table-cloth—Excursion to Constantia—Remarkable tree—The
vineyards—Manner of expressing the grape juice—Description
of Cape Town–Ascent of the Table Mountain—Sail for Mauri-
tius—Tombs of Paul and Virginia—Botanical garden — Sail for
Singapore–Accident to machinery—Stop at Acheen—A suicidal
pilot—Arrival at Singapore—Dinner at the Prussian Consul’s—
Residence of a Chinese gentleman—Curious animals—Fight with
a tiger—Mixed nationalities—Religious toleration.
WE anchored off Cape Town on the 19th of February,
under the direction of the harbor-master, whom we re-
ceived on board near the entrance of the bay. The view
of the town and its vicinity is striking and picturesque
in the extreme. The perpendicular sides, and flat sur-
face of Table Mountain behind the town, with the “Lion's
Head" and “Devil's Peak” rising on either side, like two
grim waiters standing by to spread the “table-cloth.”
whenever the mountain king may command; and the
broad plain stretching away into the distance on the
northward and eastward, form altogether one of the finest
views I have ever seen.
The peculiar form of the Table Mountain, and the
almost unvarying certainty of the indications of approach-
ing bad weather given by its becoming suddenly enveloped
in clouds, gives the inhabitants of the town, over which
it seems to preside as a sort of weird deity, a personal
interest in its condition. The violent winds prevailing
from the S.E. during the summer months of January,


36 ENVIRONS OF CAPE TOWN.
edge of the town, and we had to “keep a bright look out
ahead” to avoid a collision with the tremendous seven-
yoked ox-teams, and the droves of cattle we encountered
in that locality; but soon we reached the broad avenues
of shade trees for which the country here is justly cele-
brated, and the good roads always to be found where
English people dwell. The ride then became delightful
in the extreme—beautiful villas, lying snugly embowered
in the midst of shrubbery and flowers of brilliant and
varied hue, were seen on either side of the road, partially
concealed, to be sure, by the green hedges and trees which
separated them from its dusty redness and heat, but
looking all the more attractive and cosy for their seclusion.
The villages of Ronderbosch and Wynberg were passed
at a rapid trot, and gave us a very pleasing impression
of the combination that has evidently been made of the
English and Dutch style of architecture, and domestic
arrangement.
The road continued quite level for two or three miles
after we passed Wynberg, when it began to ascend the
side of a hill on the right, and lead through a splendid
grove of oaks up to the very gate of Constantia—or
“Groot Constantia,” as the sign over the gateway has it.
Little Constantia lies somewhat to the right of this, at
the eastern base of Table Mountain, and as this was the
principal object of our excursion, we spent but a short
time in tasting the various wines produced at the former
place, and examining a curious tree in the beautiful
grounds surrounding the proprietor's dwelling. This tree
was twisted and contorted into the most curious and
grotesque form, and advantage had been taken of the
singular freak of nature displayed in its growth, to inter-
weave a sort of rural retreat among its branches, where


RESIDENCE OF MIR. CLO ETE. 37
a rustic table had been formed, and seats ranged around
it in similar eccentric positions.
Returning to our stylish conveyance, we pursued our
joyous way to the residence of Mr. Cloete, at Little Con-
stantia, who gave us a most hospitable reception, and in-
troduced us to his handsome and accomplished daughters,
with whom we passed half an hour in the most agreeable
social chat, in the course of which it was discovered that
we had many mutual friends, and the universal friend—
music—having been cultivated by them to a more than
ordinary degree of intimacy, we were entertained with
most brilliant accounts of her richest developments in the
piano line, accompanied by the sweetest of all her inter-
preters—the female voice.
Bidding a reluctant, lingering adieu to our fair ac-
quaintances, we proceeded, under Mr. Cloete's polite
guidance, to inspect the adjacent vineyards, which pre-
sented a somewhat novel aspect to our preconceived
ideas on the subject of grape culture; our fancy having
represented the vines of immense length, twining and
squirming in all directions, on elevated arbors placed con-
spicuously in the centre of gardens, or else trained along
some sunny wall to catch the full warmth and radiance
of the vivifying “god of day”—whereas, we could easily
have imagined ourselves in a potato-patch, but for the
fact that this useful esculent prefers the lower end of the
plant for its development, and the stunted vines by which
we were surrounded each bore one, or at the most two
large bunches of most luscious grapes, of which we were
invited to partake without stint, and responded, it is
needless to say, with the most cheerful alacrity. Some
surprise being expressed at the withered appearance of
these grapes, we were informed that they were in pre-
4


38 M.A. N. U FA CTU. RE OF WIN E.
cisely the right condition for making the finest Constantia
wine, a beverage not surpassed in exquisite delicacy and
richness of flavor by Tokay itself. The grapes are
gathered in the latter part of summer, and placed, stems
and all, in large vats, where the juice is pressed from
them by the tread of negro boys and girls, who are
employed for this especial purpose, and whose feet, I
will charitably add for the benefit of my fastidious readers,
are kept in a remarkably nice condition. This system of
crushing is resorted to in order to avoid injuring the gout
of the grape juice by too large an admixture of the sap
from the stems, which would be the case if machinery
were used; and although the associations are not of the
most savory character, it cannot be doubted that the
mode of expression is the best that could be adopted, and
the result is certainly universally approved, the more so
perhaps for the modus operandi not being always under-
stood.
From the vineyard we proceeded to the wine room,
where, in huge casks neatly arranged on each side of a
large airy vault, the grape juice is deposited for the pur-
pose of undergoing the process of fermentation; after
which the various qualities and descriptions of wine are
designated by the well-known brands: Red Constantia,
White Constantia, Frontignac, and Pontac, the latter re-
sembling Port wine somewhat in flavor, and the others
being of a more luscious character. We had “a pull”
at them all, of course, and I am not quite decided yet to
which variety I should give the preference were I called
on to do so.
Mr. Cloete was quite anxious to test the effect of the
cruise, in the hot climate to which we were bound, upon
these wines, and for this purpose, and of course with no


w As IIING To N's BIRTH-DAY. 39
thought of selfish gratification, we procured from him a
moderate supply of the different varieties for the ward-
room mess. All I can say for his information, with re-
gard to this experiment, is, that the wines would have
kept much better if the ladies whom we had the pleasure
of entertaining during the cruise, and the members of the
Japanese Embassy, had not evinced quite so strong a
preference for their exquisite flavor.
Having had a most gratifying introduction to the
mysteries of wine-making, and the hour approaching
when the “inner man” began to require something more
substantial than the delicious fluids with which we had
just been regaled, our Yusef was commanded to produce
“the grays,” with the remotest approach to a “flourish
of trumpets” in the voice and manner of the individual
giving the order. Hunger is a great motive power, and
as our grays felt its influence quite as much as any of
the party, the nine miles of our return journey were
travelled with railroad speed. We soon found ourselves
again at the hotel, and having done ample justice to a
fine leg of Cape mutton with “the trimmings,” once
more gladly returned to our cheerful mess-room on board
the good old ship. -
On the 22d of February we fired a national salute of
twenty-one guns at meridian, and dressed ship with the
stars and stripes at each mast-head, in honor to the anni-
versary of the birth of one whose “peerless name” is
known but to be revered by all the nations of the earth;
—not only the Father of his country, but the great pro-
genitor of civil and religious liberty to all people who
have the heart to cherish and the head to comprehend
the rights of freemen. The small tribute of respect paid
to his memory by our men-of-war in all parts of the


40 DESCRIPTION OF CAPE TOWN.
world, exerts a silent but powerful influence over the politi-
cal condition of those who learn alone from this seemingly
trite and formal ceremony, how fondly and how proudly
the name of Washington is perpetuated, as it will con-
tinue to be through succeeding generations, by every true
American. -
Cape Town is a well-built and well-governed city, con-
taining a population of nearly 25,000 souls. There is a
fine botanical garden near the centre, in the immediate
vicinity of the governor's residence, which affords a
beautiful shady retreat from the heat and dust of the
town in the warm evenings of summer, and is quite a
fashionable promenade for all classes; among whom may
be seen as great a variety of the genus homo as can be
found in any one city in the world; natives of all parts
of the globe meeting there on neutral ground. It has a
royal marine, and a magnetic observatory, a college, and
a library containing 30,000 volumes, a government bank
which issues notes, and a joint-stock bank, with a branch
at Graham's Town. Within Cape Town is held the
Supreme Court of Justice of the colony, and it was con-
stituted a bishopric in 1847.
In the vicinity are numerous villas, and the walks near
the town are pretty and neatly kept; one of them which
leads along the top of Wynberg hill is very picturesque,
overlooking the town and bay, and affording a fine view
of the sandy plain and distant mountains, with Green
Point (where there is a light-house), and Roben's Island
in the distance. The climate is healthy, rendering it a
place of great resort for the foreign residents of India.
Cape Town was founded by the Dutch in 1650, and
taken by the English in 1795; restored to Holland by the
treaty of Amiens, recaptured by the British in 1806, and


ASCENT OF THE TABLE MOUNTAIN. 41
finally ceded to Britain in 1815. The Cape of Good Hope
was discovered by Bartholomew Diaz in 1486, and called
by him the “Cape of Storms.”
The strong S. E. winds which come in sudden gusts
across the sandy plain to the northward of the town,
although creating no swell, came with such violence on
two occasions, while our ship was moored in Table Bay,
as to cause the immense iron cables to snap like a piece
of twine; but as we were lying in only four fathoms water,
we succeeded without much difficulty in recovering the
anchor, with the broken chain attached. These winds
brought the dust off to the ship in almost smothering
clouds, and interfered greatly with the transportation of
coal in boats from the shore; consequently, we were
detained here seventeen days—a circumstance which would
have been no source of regret, but for our anxiety to
reach our ultimate destination, the coast of China, where
Commodore Tattnall was awaiting our arrival with equal
impatience; to say nothing of the officers on board the
“San Jacinto,” which vessel the “Powhatan” was to
relieve, as the flag-ship of the squadron.
I must not omit to mention a feat performed by our
fleet-surgeon while at Cape Town, in company with one
or two of the younger officers, who were actuated by their
sight-seeing ambition to attempt the ascent of Table
Mountain, which is nearly 4000 feet high. The path
leading up its sides is exceedingly rough and precipitous,
but with such an undaunted leader the young gentlemen
could know “no such word as fail,” and success, of course,
crowned their efforts; which they were, however, at one
time rather disposed to regret, as the “table-cloth” was
unexpectedly spread by the officious, and somewhat too
attentive waiters already alluded to, and the party nar-
4 +


42 SAIL FOR M A U R ITIU. S.
rowly escaped being enveloped in its ample folds—a source
of terror to venturesome tourists. And speaking of table-
cloths reminds me to inform the sympathizing reader that
the unlucky wight who palmed himself off upon the ward-
room mess as a first-class steward, was taken suddenly
ill while at Cape Town, and out of pure regard to his
health was permitted to return in a Yankee bark to the
land of his adoption, from whence I sincerely trust he
may never again depart in the capacity of steward to any
mess of gentlemen “bound on a cruise"—the stereotyped
man-of-war answer to impertinent inquiries concerning
their destination.
On the 8th of March, we bade adieu to the bright
scenes, and brighter eyes, with which our weary ocean
journey was cheered while at Cape Town, and doubling
the Cape in fine weather, shaped our course for the Isle
of France, or Mauritius, as the loyal Dutchmen who took
possession of it in 1598, subsequently named it, in honor
of their illustrious Prince Maurice. The wind soon sprung
up “right in our teeth,” and brought on another case of
housed top-masts, lower yards, etc., with wet decks, and
a most uncomfortable condition of things generally —
affording no opportunity for any display of the Purser's
sparkling humor, or practical jokes, as the “Life of the
Mess” was a constant victim to sea-sickness during the
whole passage.
We arrived off Port Louis during the night, and I thus
lost the pleasure of viewing this beautiful island as we
approached it from the southward; but I was fully com-
pensated next morning, as I caught the first glimpse of
the land beneath the beams of the rising sun, which
touched each craggy mountain, and lofty peak, with golden
hue, and showed in fairest colors the harmonious blending


PO RT LOUIS. 43
of the sublime and beautiful, which united in the forma-
tion of this favored speck on old ocean's majestic bosom.
At the distance of two or three miles from the entrance
of the harbor, we were boarded by the harbor-master,
who soon piloted our noble ship to the moorings placed
just within its narrow limits for the accommodation of
men-of-war. Here she was moored “head and stern” by
strong chains, attached to heavy anchors, intended to
resist the force of the violent hurricanes which sometimes
blow in this region, and receive the name of cyclone, from
their circular course. The harbor is very small, affording
anchorage for not more than sixty or seventy vessels, and
these moored so as to prevent their swinging to the wind
and tide.
The town of Port Louis is built on a plain at the base
of the hills jutting down from the Brabant Mountains on
the right, nearly to the ocean, and contains a population
of nearly 30,000, of whom only about one sixth are
whites—the larger portion being Malays, Lascars, Chinese,
and fishermen from Malabar. The whites are principally
of French origin—the nation to whom the island now
belongs being represented only by the troops stationed in
the forts and barracks, and by a few wealthy merchants.
The streets are straight, but not paved; and there are
many handsome stone buildings, but the houses are mostly
of wood, and of a single story.
During our brief stay in this truly charming place, we
contrived to make ample amends for the disgusting time
we had passed in reaching it, thanks to the kind offices
of a noble-hearted countryman who had been residing
there for several years, connected with the largest mer-
cantile establishment in the place. The attentions and
hospitalities extended to the officers of the Powhatan by


44 S C E N E R Y OF PORT LOUIS.
George M. Farnum and his estimable lady, will ever be
gratefully remembered by them, and in looking back upon
their changeful and eventful lives, the visit to Port Louis
will be recalled as one of the most agreeable episodes of
the past.
On leaving the island, Mr. Farnum presented to the
ward-room mess a daguerreotype of himself and family,
of which, on our arrival at Hong Kong, we had two
copies of a large size painted in oil, one of which was
transmitted to him as a slight evidence of our grateful
recollection of his kindness, and the other was reserved to
ornament our mess-room and recall to memory the benevo-
lent countenances of friends whom we might never again
meet in the journey through life; and, sad to relate, before
leaving the coast of China, we received a letter from
Mrs. Farnum, announcing the painful intelligence of the
death of her husband, and her contemplated return, in
consequence, to the United States.
The scenery around Port Louis, is wildly beautiful and
romantic; the rugged mountains rising into peaks of
considerable altitude and grotesque form, Brabant Moun-
tain, the highest, being 3000 feet, and the remarkable
rock called Peter Botte, 2600. Between the mountains
and along the coast are fertile plains and valleys, well
watered by numerous streamlets, and abounding in all
the beautiful trees and shrubbery of tropical climes.
The peak called Peter Botte is an insulated rock of
singular formation, rising abruptly, and with almost per-
pendicular sides, from the gently sloping hills by which it
is surrounded. Tradition says that an ambitious Dutch-
man, on the island during its possession by Holland, made
the ascent to its highest peak, and having reached it ap-
parently without fatigue, proceeded to the added exertion
*


N EG R O COSTU M E. 45
of hewing himself an arm-chair out of the solid rock, in
which he sat to indulge in elevated meditations upon the
follies and struggles of the pigmies at his feet. From
this most extraordinary specimen of the Dutch race, the
rock has derived its name.
The tombs of Paul and Virginia being situated within
seven miles of the Port, offered an irresistible inducement,
even to the least romantic among us, to make an excur-
sion to the spot wherein the earthly remains of those
unfortunate, but singularly virtuous and devoted lovers,
are said to have found a final resting-place. The exploring
party was made up under the auspices of our friend Mr.
Farnum, having first partaken of a splendid déjeune at
his residence, while waiting for the heat and dust to sub-
side somewhat before we got under way. We started at
about 3 o'clock, and the distance was soon overcome, the
road being level and beautiful beyond description. I
speak, however, only of its natural advantages and arti-
ficial conveniences, for if I included the sights which met
our view in every direction, truth would compel me to
say that in some places rather a sombre aspect was pre-
sented, the way being lined and crowded with negroes of
all ages and sexes—not quite in a state of nudity, but so
near it that no other single word except naked would
convey a correct idea of their costume. Most of them wear
a rag of some kind around their loins, decency requiring a
partial concealment of their persons, and the excessive heat
rendering clothing oppressive to those who have to labor;
but this special regard for the “appearance of things”
was by no means universal, except, I must add in justice
to the gentle sex, among the females. A couple of miles
before reaching the “tombs,” we halted to pay a short
visit to the church where Paul and Virginia are said to


46 A B O TA NICA L G A R DEN.
have knelt side by side in their devotions to that Provi-
dence which threw them together in this distant isle, to
live, and love, and die, inseparably united. The resem-
blance between this church and almost all other edifices
consecrated to the same object was so striking, that I
must refer my reader for a description to the one nearest
his immediate locality, and spare the dullness of written
details. Opposite to it, however, was that very general
precinct, a graveyard, the beauties and peculiarities of
which require more special remark. Neatness and order
in the erection and preservation of the various monuments,
would strike every one on entering the place as its most
prominent characteristic; but what attracted my particu-
lar notice and admiration were the universal flower-vases
filled with beautiful bouquets, which adorned every grave-
stone, however humble or ancient its appearance, and
which conveyed the idea of the tenderest respect for the
memory of the dead.
One of the family vaults was of a very costly and
beautiful construction, built in the form of an antique
temple, the outer wall being of granite, and the interior
lined with white marble—having the names of its occu-
pants sculptured upon it immediately over their resting-
place. It is said to have cost many thousand dollars, and
is kept in the meatest order possible.
From the cemetery the party soon adjourned to a mag-
nificent botanical garden in the immediate vicinity, and
our admiration for the tenements of the dead was soon
lost in the glowing sense of delight caused by the living
beauties of Nature. Walking slowly along splendid ave-
nues of graceful and luxuriant trees, bending beneath
their weight of foliage, and inhaling the perfume from a
thousand various flowers, the sense of the beautiful and


AN IN Hospita BLE “GENTLEMAN.'' 47
picturesque and delicious which filled every breast was
almost overpowering. Reaching the further extremity
of the garden, we suddenly found ourselves on the margin
of two large artificial lakes, whose waters seemed to be
strongly impregnated with the aroma distilled from the
mass of flowers lining the edges, and which completely
covered the numerous little islets with which they were
studded. After a short ramble through the various walks
lined with palm trees, and an endless variety of shrubs
and fragrant flowers, we pursued our journey to the
romantic spot said to be the final resting-place of Paul
and Virginia. We found it immediately in the rear of
an ordinary farm-house, built in the time of the French
occupation of the island, and in the most dilapidated con-
dition. When we approached the house we observed the
family sitting in the old-fashioned verandah at dinner,
and as we formed rather a large party to be traversing a
gentleman's private grounds without saying, “By your
leave,” one of the males rose from the table, and, advan-
cing towards us, made the somewhat impertinent inquiry,
“What do you want?” Mr. Farnum replied, with con-
siderable naïveté, “We want to see the tombs of Paul
and Virginia.” Upon which he was informed that it was
“customary before entering a gentleman's premises to
ask permission"—for this piece of information the “gen-
tleman” was politely thanked, and we “went on our way,
rejoicing" at each step, that we had not much further to
go, as the odors which impregnated the atmosphere were
far from resembling those of “Araby the blest,” and
justified an apprehension that the bodies of the devoted
lovers had not yet been interred. On reaching the locality,
we discovered two very ordinary square monuments,
built of brick and plastered over in imitation of granite,


48 TOM BS OF PA U L AND WIRGINIA.
though this covering had been removed in so many places
by the ruthless hand of time, and the equally remorseless
depredations of romantic devotees to the shrine, that it is
by no means difficult to ascertain the paltry character of
the material which composes the structures. They are
situated about fifty yards in the rear of the house men-
tioned—immediately opposite to each other, and on either
side of a ditch filled with stagnant water. Take it alto-
gether, it is the most miserable piece of humbug I ever
travelled seven miles to see; but as it would have quite
destroyed my reputation for sensibility to be in the imme-
diate vicinity of a spot so widely known to the world of
romance, without visiting it, I could not decline Mr. Far-
num's kind invitation to make one of a most agreeable
party. The condition of the monuments indicates either
the most heathenish incredulity, or the most culpable
moral depravity on the part of the present generation.
Doubtless those who have them in charge have found that
the fable which made them profitable, can no longer serve
the mercenary purpose for which alone they were con-
structed; visitors being required to pay a small fee for
admittance.
From thence we went to a sugar plantation two miles
further on, belonging to an English gentleman, and were
received in the most cordial and hospitable manner by the
family. We had an opportunity here of seeing the ap-
prenticeship system in operation, as the English term
their enslavement of the natives of Hindoostan and other
parts of India and Africa; and came to the unanimous
conclusion, that slavery in its most positive and unblush-
ing form is preferable to the duplicity and robbery per-
petrated by the English in their treatment of these ignor-
ant and half-savage creatures. They are enticed away


MILITARY HOS PITAL IT Y. 49
from their homes by lying promises of immense rewards,
and a free passage back to their country at the expira-
tion of three years, but the average of those who return
is said to be about one fourth, while the remaining por-
tion are left to starve in the colony to which they have
been transported, or make a precarious living by robbery
and all descriptions of crime. The day of retribution
must come, and a fearful one it will be, in all human pro-
bability; for these people do not seem to adopt the habits
and language of the race with whom they are thrown
half so readily as the natives of Africa.
But I am not writing a disquisition on political economy,
and will turn from this dark subject to the more agree-
able one of the splendid dinner to which we were all
invited by the English regiment stationed here for defence,
and to keep the inhabitants of the island in proper sub-
jection. The mess is composed of fourteen officers, rank-
ing from a lieutentant-colonel down to an ensign, and
being all wealthy men, can afford to indulge in every
luxury they may fancy in the way of eating and drinking,
which seems to be their principal source of enjoyment in
this distant and somewhat monotonous place. The dinner
was faultless, of course, and the regimental band, com-
posed of twenty-four fine musicians, discoursed “sweet
sounds” while we partook of the dessert, thus combining
the pleasures of soul and sense, and giving a higher zest
to each. We rose from table about 10 P.M., and spent
an hour or so at billiards in an adjoining room, after
which our party returned on board “wiser if not sadder
men," having learned from our day's experience that John
Bull understands the art of good living somewhat better
than his nautical descendants in America.
All the officers of the regiment (the “King's Own"),
5 D


50 A N A M A Z 0 N.
and several others who were en route for India, with their
families and recruits for the war, had previously visited
the Powhatan, and been received with every courtesy and
attention. Indeed, scarcely a day passed while at Mauri-
tius, that our ship was not overrun with visitors of both
sexes, and of the highest respectability. On one occasion
a little dance was gotten up in quite an impromptu style,
which every one appeared to enjoy amazingly. The
company consisted almost entirely of English officers and
their families—there was only one lady present who could
claim no military connection, but to make amends for
this, she assumed as martial an air as if the spirit of an
entire regiment had been embodied in her own pretty little
person. Her dress consisted of a riding-habit, beneath
which peeped out, what wonderfully resembled a pair of
black unmentionables, though they might have been some-
thing entirely different, for, of course, the delicate mys-
teries of a lady's toilet can never be perfectly understood
even by the most enlightened member of the opposite sex.
She sported a natty little hat, and carried a riding-whip
in her hand, which she looked quite ready to apply, a la
Lola Montez, to the shoulders of any one who dared take
exceptions to aught she might choose to say or do. As
I am not very well versed in Amazonian warfare, I gave
her a wide berth, not much caring to approach within
reach of her weapon.
The day previous to this little fête, I accompanied Mr.
Farnum and several of the officers of the ship to the resi-
dence of a wealthy gentleman in the country, where we
enjoyed exceedingly avery beautiful view of the island, with
the sea in the distance. A more picturesque and romantic
spot I never beheld, nor did I ever see a residence which
I was more disposed to covet. Almost everything that


A LUXU RIO US RESIDEN CE. 51
money and good taste could accomplish had been done to
render the place convenient, beautiful, and luxurious; and
yet there was evidently not the remotest approach to
happiness in the hearts of either of its occupants. Theirs
was the old story of “January and May”—a husband of
sixty and a wife one third his age; and of course from the
ill-assorted union no good result could spring. Exqui-
sitely charming as everything around us appeared, it re-
quired but little penetration to discover that “the trail
of the serpent was over it all,” and I felt that I would
rather spend a single year in the humblest cottage on
earth with one who loved me, than a thousand with a
heartless woman, however beautiful, in the little paradise
we were visiting. Shortly after entering the house we
were seated at a splendidly furnished table to partake of
what we name lunch, but which the English always call
Tiffin, and which, on this occasion, might with great pro-
priety have been styled dinner, and a most sumptuous
one at that. We were indebted, in some degree, to Mr.
Farnum for our invitation to this place, as we were, in
fact, for every civility and hospitality extended to us,
except those which came from the English officers. With
the most unbounded hospitality, this gentleman devoted
himself to our entertainment while we remained at Port
Louis; he was not at all partial in his liberality either,
but extended it to all alike—not content with employing
three or four carriages by the day to wait on our pleasure,
and take us wherever we wished to go, he devoted him-
self during the whole of our stay to getting up excursions
into the country, to visit the remarkable and interesting
points on the island, upon which he always accompanied
us, and took with him refreshments of every kind, and
on our return from these little expeditions he would insist


52 DEPARTURE FOR SINGAPORE.
on our going to his house to dine. Moreover, he kept
three rooms in his spacious mansion for our especial use,
in case we should wish to remain on shore at night; of
this privilege, however, I never availed myself, partly
because I liked my own bed too much, and partly for the
reason that my presence was always very necessary
on board the ship early in the morning. He was, in-
deed, a noble specimen of an American gentleman, and
much I fear that we shall not soon look upon his like
again.
Having completed our preparations, we sailed for Sin-
gapore on the 2d of April, parting with the friends who
had contributed so greatly to the enjoyment of our visit
to Port Louis, with a feeling of sincere regret. Continual
variety though, forms one of the strongest ties which
binds a sea-faring man to his profession, and without it
the life he leads would become almost insupportable. The
anticipation of new and untried scenes of pleasure, coupled
with the gratifying sense of being in the discharge of duty,
reconciles him to parting with the friends he is compelled
to resign in pursuance of his vocation, and gives a relish
to life by quickening his sensibilities and expanding his
practical views, instead of blunting and contracting them,
as the plodding routine of the merchant, tradesman, and
professional man must almost inevitably do to a certain
extent. But I am becoming digressive, and must turn
my attention to the practical part of my subject, lest I
give offence to some of my land-loving friends.
The passage across the Indian ocean was unusually
pleasant, the weather being calm and clear nearly the
whole time, the only incident worthy of record being the
breaking of an important part of our machinery (a crank-
pin), which caused us to run at a lower rate of speed for


UN CERE MONIO US VISITORS. 53
three days before reaching the island of Sumatra, where
we were compelled to anchor, near the town of Acheen, on
the 17th of April. Five days were employed here in re-
pairing the damage caused by this mishap, which pre-
vented our making the remarkably quick passage we had
hoped to accomplish between Mauritius and Singapore.
Our visits to the shore at this place were very brief
and unsatisfactory, the savage-looking natives assembling
in crowds on the beach whenever they saw one of our
boats approaching, and although not exactly brandishing
their ugly, poisonous kreases, to deter us from landing,
yet taking especial care that the weapons should not be
overlooked. The females invariably scampered away at
our approach, and concealing themselves behind the trees
and huts, could be seen catching a stealthy glimpse of
their apparently unwelcome visitors. Swarms of the
coarser sex—and truly coarse they were — came off to
the ship, and were permitted to inspect her arrangements
above the lower deck, though their conduct was under
the unremitting surveillance of sundry corporals and
messenger boys, to guard against the depredations they
were likely to commit on stray articles of metallic forma-
tion, for which they appear to have a most covetous long-
ing. There was an air of independence, and, it may be
said, of cool effrontery about these sans culotte lords of
the soil, which it was quite amusing to witness. Ignorant
and brutish as they were, they evidently acknowledged
no superior among the civilized race with whom they
were so unexpectedly brought into contact, and I should
judge from their manner, that if any comparison was
drawn by their unreasoning minds, the result was decidedly
favorable to themselves. Only two among the entire
number (about a thousand), who honored us with a visit,
5 *


54 A CBI EEN.
understood a syllable of our language, though much more
strange to say, we had an Irishman in the steam depart-
ment who could converse quite fluently in theirs, and by
means of the three interpreters we contrived to procure
a little fruit and a few vegetables and fish; as well as the
frame-work of what might in time have become a toler-
ably respectable bullock, but which was such a perfect
skeleton when it came into our possession, that it had
soon to be “taken down” to prevent its falling to pieces,
or to use the Irishman's words, it “was killed to save its
life;” and the same fate befell a horribly ugly cat, brought
on board by request, through the kind offices of an
obliging and intelligent native, who rejoiced in the high
sounding name of Mohammed, and had been to Paris!
These wretched demi-savages profess the Mussulman
faith, but their practices do not indicate the slightest vene-
ration for anything “in the heavens above or the earth
beneath,” unless the close concealment of their women
may be ascribed to some sentiment of the sort, which is
hardly probable. -
The town of Acheen is built on wooden piles, and con-
tains about 8000 houses spread over a large area, the
population being nearly 50,000. It lies in lat. 5° 34' N.
long. 95° 34' E., and is the capital of an independent
kingdom of the same name. It was once a powerful and
flourishing State, but has degenerated into a miserable
semi-barbarous condition. There are one or two cargoes
of spices exported from the kingdom annually, which are
obtained with great difficulty, and not without danger,
owing to the piratical character of the natives. -
While here we embraced the opportunity presented by
the large bay to fix a target and exercise the crew in
firing shell from the new battery, consisting of ten nine-


ST R A IT'S OF MA. LACCA. 55
inch and one eleven-inch shell gun, all on the Dahlgren,
or as our English friends call them, the “soda-water bottle”
pattern. The natives seemed greatly astonished at this
performance, and all on board were gratified by the
accuracy and rapidity of the firing, as well as the correct
timing of the fuzes.
On the 23d of April, we made a second start for Sing-
apore, and, passing through the Straits of Malacca in
smooth water and calm weather, accomplished the run
of more than seven hundred miles in three days, having
been compelled to anchor during the night previous to
our arrival, by the darkness and some uncertainty re-
garding our position, occasioned by the current.
One little incident occurred during this passage of
rather an amusing character, though it came very near
having a tragic termination. It is worthy of mention,
as a slight illustration of the peculiar notions of govern-
ment existing among the Acheenese. Our friend Mo-
hammed, who, as has been stated, had been to Paris,
engaged the services of an ancient fisherman to perform
the duties of pilot on board the “Powhatan" during the
passage through the Straits, for which he was to re-
ceive the sum of forty “Mexicans,” one half payable in .
advance, into the hands of the aforesaid Mohammed.
We had proceeded but a short distance on our voyage
when it was discovered that this soi-disant pilot had
about as much idea of the position of the ship as of the
mode of imparting what he professed to know, to our
comprehension. Never was human creature more utterly
bewildered and amazed than was this poor old man, by
the size and speed of the vessel, and the strangeness of
every object around him. He protested that he saw the
Island of Penang on the morning after leaving Acheen,


56 A SUIC ID A L PILOT.
when it was more than two hundred miles distant, and
seemed not less alarmed than grieved by our obstinate
incredulity, and persistence in running directly towards
it, while he desired the course to be changed in order to
avoid shaving the land too closely. After this demonstra-
tion of incompetence, no heed was given, of course, to his
suggestions, and the master assumed the entire responsi-
bility of the navigation—a duty for which he was admir-
ably qualified. Stung by mortification at being super-
seded in his office, and laboring under the most harassing
apprehension for the safety of the ship, for which he still
considered himself responsible, he used the most super-
human efforts to convey to our understanding the assur-
ance that his head would be the forfeit were she to get
aground. Finding that our sympathies were not to be
moved by his pantomimic protestations, he watched a
quiet moment, and stealing over the gangway, walked
deliberately down the side-cleats, and slipped gently into
the foaming, rushing waves produced by the rapidly re-
volving wheels. Fortunately, he was discovered by the
quarter-master on the poop-deck, as he passed astern, and
the ship was stopped immediately—not, however, until
the infatuated old creature had been left at least two
miles astern; a boat was lowered in the greatest possible
haste, and sent to his rescue, but the total unconcern
manifested by the old man, induced the belief that he was
much more at home in the water than on the ship's deck.
As to committing suicide, he appeared to have had not
the slightestintention of making “a demnition moist body
of himself,” any further than was necessary to produce a
suitable impression upon the heartless and obdurate
people among whom he had so haplessly been thrown.
He yielded most passively to the efforts of the boat's crew


A R RIVAL AT SINGAPORE. 57
to lift him from the water into the boat, but after remain-
ing perfectly quiet for a few moments, he made a faint
effort to jump overboard again, which being resisted, he
seemed to resign himself to his cruel fate with the forti-
tude of a martyr, and submitted to being brought on board
again without further resistance. He skulked moodily
about the deck until we reached Singapore, where he
availed himself of the first sampan to procure a dry
passage to the land, from whence he never returned to
claim the remaining twenty dollars due for his services.(?)
We anchored in the Roads of Singapore on the 27th
of April, in the afternoon, and in compliance with cus-
tom, sent a boat on shore immediately, in charge of a
lieutenant, to inform the American Consul of our arrival,
and to convey the Captain's compliments to the Governor,
with the usual offering of a salute to the city, on condi-
tion of its return “gun for gun.” The boat soon returned
bringing off Thomas Biddle, Esq., of Philadelphia, by
whom the commercial interests of the United Sates were
most efficiently represented at that time. After commu-
nicating with Captain Pearson, relative to the official
object of his visit, the Consul insisted upon carrying off
either him or his executive officer to dinner at the Prus-
sian Consul's, to which he had been commissioned to in-
vite them, and as the Captain positively declined, I con-
sented somewhat reluctantly to become his representative,
the heat and fatigue of the day having given me a much
greater inclination for repose than for the formalities or
hilarities of a dinner-party. The Consul's persuasions,
however, were of too demonstrative and striking a charac-
ter to be resisted, and I came to the conclusion that it
would be more agreeable to put a bottle of good wine
under my jacket, than to have his cane run through my


58 A NEGLIGENT ‘‘s Y CE.''
ribs, which seemed likely to be my fate unless I speedily
yielded to the insinuating arguments he continued to poke
at me. The question being determined, my toilet was
soon made, and within two hours after anchoring the
ship, I found myself most unexpectedly en route for the
shore, in company with a gentleman I had never met
before, and to whom I was indebted for an invitation to
dine with another gentleman whose acquaintance I had
yet to make.
The pull to the landing was at least two miles and a
half, but the lively and agreeable conversation of my com-
panion caused the time to pass so rapidly that I did not
find the distance great, and even had it been twice as far
I should have been amply compensated by the quiet en-
joyment of the Consul's dismay when he discovered, on
landing, that his “garay” (as the little one-horse vehicles
of the country are called) was not to be found. The
gradual descent of his manner from the dignified and
confident, to the piteous and imploring, in summoning his
... syce, or driver, and the “curses not loud, but deep,” at
the fellow's stupidity, which reached only my ears,
afforded sufficient amusement to have reconciled me to an
immediate return to the ship without my dinner, though
I had by this time entirely forgotten my fatigue, and felt
quite disposed to partake of the good cheer I had reason
to expect at the Prussian Consul's. The efforts of my,
aggrieved friend to discover his syce in the darkness by
which we were surrounded, proved utterly unavailing,
and he was fain to console himself by hiring a “garay”
for the occasion, and indulging the hope that the unfor-
tunate delinquent would be devoured by tigers on his
way to the “Bungalow,” whither he now felt assured he
had betaken himself. A pleasant drive by starlight of


RESIDENCE OF THE PRUssIAN consu L. 59
about two miles, brought us to the residence of our host,
which proved to be an exceedingly handsome building,
situated on a slight eminence, with a wide, smooth road
leading up to the front entrance, on each side of which
the luxuriant and fragrant shrubs and flowers so liberally
planted, gave token at once of wealth and good taste in
the occupant. The obscurity of the light prevented my
obtaining a distinct view of the exterior of the building,
but it appeared to be of rectangular form, with a projec-
tion of similar shape extending about thirty feet from the
house, the lower part of which was paved with stone, and
furnished in neat and comfortable style as a dining-hall,
while the upper room afforded a most commodious and
luxurious lounging place during the warm evenings of
this equatorial region. Immediately on the right of the
dining-hall, was a large and convenient billiard-room, an
almost indispensable appendage to a gentleman's residenco
in the Eastern world, where out-door exercise is always
uncomfortable, and frequently dangerous, except in the
morning and evening. The main building was most
judiciously divided into parlors, chambers, library, etc.,
and furnished in an oriental style of magnificence. Our
highly respected, but somewhat eccentric Consul, had ac-.
quired the reputation of keeping rather irregular hours,
and being always late to dinner; consequently, when we
arrived, at about 8 P.M., we found the other guests
already assembled around our host's munificent table, but
the manifestations of welcome on all sides were too decided
to allow the Consul to offer his usual apologies, so we
took our seats and immediately participated, not only in
the animated conversation going on, but in the enjoyment .
of the various culinary and vinous delicacies presented to
our palates.


60 AN AGREE A B L E DIN N E R - PARTY.
Among the guests I was introduced to Sir Richard
M'Causland, Chief Judge of the Supreme Court of the
Straits of Malacca, embracing the settlements of Singa-
pore, Malacca, Penang, and the Province of Wellesley,
the latter being on the Malay coast, immediately opposite
to the island of Penang, or Prince of Wales Island, as it
is called in the charts. This gentleman possesses the
elements of popularity to a degree which would enable an
American politician to achieve the highest aims of his
ambition, and is regarded as one of the most learned
judges who has ever donned the ermine in the great
Orient. After the wine had duly circulated, he was called
upon to respond to a toast in his honor, and made one of
the most interesting and humorous speeches I ever listened
to—at the close of which he pledged “The American
Consul—a worthy representative of one of the greatest
nations of the earth, of which England proudly claims
the parentage.” This called the Consul out in one of his
most brilliant efforts, and I felt the Yankee blood tingle
in my veins as I listened to his eloquent and patriotic
reply; brief—as such things ought ever to be—but full
of good feeling and good taste, accompanied by a slight
dash of mirthful humor. Soon after this the party ad-
journed to the billiard-room for a game of poole, in which,
as usual, I destroyed a great many “lives,” without
saving my own, and upon its conclusion we took a cordial
leave of our hospitable entertainer. Finding the “garay”
without difficulty this time, I proceeded in company with
Mr. Biddle, to the country-seat of a Chinese friend of his,
distant some four or five miles, where we purposed spend-
ing the night, or as much of it as remained. We reached
there about midnight, and found that the worthy “Celes-
tial” had long since retired to his slumbers, the portals


A ch IN ESE GENTLEMAN. 61
of his castle being guarded by a native of the “great
Empire,” who, himself, appeared in a state of somnambu-
lism as he opened them for our admittance. We were
shown up stairs into a handsomely furnished parlor, orna-
mented with an infinite variety of Chinese and other
oriental curios, and were soon welcomed by Whampoa in
person, whose appearance and manner, I must confess, in
no degree confirmed my preconceived impressions of the
Chinese character in general. His address was cordial
and dignified, and his conversation extremely intelligent—
speaking English more perfectly than any one of his race
I have ever met since, and evincing an acquaintance with
the usual topics of interest among “outside barbarians”
which took me quite by surprise. I learned afterwards
from Mr. Biddle, that Whampoa was regarded as one of
the most enterprising and charitable citizens of Singa-
pore, being possessed of considerable wealth, from which
he frequently made the most liberal and public-spirited
contributions toward the improvement of the city, and
the necessities of his less thriving countrymen. After
spending half an hour in agreeable conversation, we were
conducted to our respective apartments for the night,
which were furnished in a style of comfort and elegance
admirably adapted to the hot climate, and I have never
enjoyed a more refreshing night's rest than this, my first
and only one under a Chinaman's roof. While the dew
was still on the grass in the morning, we were invited
by Whampoa to accompany him in a ramble through
his extensive and tastefully ornamented grounds, whose
gently undulating surface, abounding in broad, smooth
walks, lead us through groves of nutmeg trees, and
borders of roses and geraniums, which “lent their fra-
grance to the morning air," and made it redolent of
6


62 SING U L A R A NIMA L S.
Nature's purest contribution to the gratification of man's
senses. Our host then informed us that he was about to
show us a goat larger than a cow, and a horse smaller
than a dog, and to witness these phenomena we were
taken to a little valley in the rear of the dwelling-house,
where a variety of animals were confined under a spacious
shed divided into stalls, and there we actually beheld an
enormous long-haired goat from Thibet, with a full-grown
cow from Abyssinia standing near him, and scarcely
reaching in height up to his broad back—the cow cer-
tainly weighed less than the goat, the latter being in fine
condition, and the former on her “last legs,” evidently.
The horse was also from Abyssinia, and its size consider-
ably less than that of a gigantic mastiff, which was chained
in one corner of the shed. Returning thence to the
house, we found a sumptuous breakfast prepared for us,
the furniture of the table being in the European style,
while the viands were cooked after the Chinese manner,
with delicious tea, and the most savory dish of freshly
prepared curry I have ever tasted—with which the inevi-
table boiled rice was served, accompanied also, by at least
a dozen different condiments. I shall long retain the
pleasant remembrance of that breakfast at Whampoa's,
although I have not the least pretension to an epicurean
taste.
Winding up with a cheroot, the party dispersed—Mr.
Biddle returning to the city in his “garay,” while I be-
came Whampoa's companion in a snug little cabriolet, and
listened with considerable interest and entertainment to
his description of the five different plantations of which
he was the fortunate but unostentatious possessor—all
situated in the immediate vicinity of Singapore. Nearly
all the business men of the city have their residences on


64 A KENTUC KY HUNTER.
among the thick jungle covering nearly the whole of that
side of the island, excepting only the cultivated portion;
and when the coolies who are employed in the gambier
and nutmeg plantations are passing along the paths
through the jungle in prosecution of their labors, they are
pounced upon with as much celerity, and as little com-
punction, as a good housewife would exhibit in capturing
a choice barn-door fowl for the table. There are instances,
however, where the tiger is said to get the worst of the
encounter, and one of these occurred during our last
visit to this place, which, as we heard it related, borders
somewhat on the Gordon Cumming style of adventure.
An individual, claiming to be a Kentuckian, and who
substantiates his claim by dressing in the peculiar style
supposed to be in vogue among western men, viz.: a buck-
skin hunting-shirt and bowie knife, with the inevitable
rifle on his shoulder by way of company, lives on the
tiger side of the island, “without any visible means of
support,” secluding himself from all society, and rarely
coming into contact with any human being. This man
brought into Singapore, in the month of April, 1859, the
hide of a tiger measuring fourteen feet from the end of
his nose (or where his nose once was) to the tip of his
tail; for which he received a reward from the Governor's
office of one hundred dollars, and subsequently sold the
skin for forty-five, a sum sufficient to support him in his
hermit mode of life at least a year.
The manner in which this modern “Nimrod" effected
the capture of the immense tiger described, gives suffi-
cient evidence of his skill and courage to entitle him to a
place among the “mighty hunters” of the age. He had
caught glimpses of the villain's stealthy, cat-like move-
ments in the jungle the day previous, and determined at .


AD VENTURE WITH A TIGER. 65
once that one or the other must soon quit the neighbor-
hood or die; so he stationed himself in a convenient
position for the rencontre, as he had arranged it in his
own mind, the tiger not being consulted at all in the pre-
mises; and soon seeing his four-footed enemy approach,
he watched his movements as stealthily and narrowly as
if he himself belonged to the tiger race, and just as the
cunning vagabond was about to make the fatal spring on
his shoulders, he fell suddenly prostrate, holding his rifle,
ready cocked, with a firm grasp. The tiger was, of course,
unprepared for any such dodge as this, and over-estimating
his distance, jumped clear over the man's body, who in-
stantly sprang to his feet and gave the retreating assail-
ant the contents of his rifle, as he was struggling to
extricate himself from the thick jungle but a few yards
beyond—wounding him mortally by a ball judiciously
inserted at the back of the ear. He was soon dispatched
by a desperate lunge of the huntsman's knife, and his
skin stripped off and thrown on the back of his horse,
which was standing not far distant awaiting the result of
the combat. There! if Gordon Cumming can beat that,
he can take my new navy cap, which is my nearest ap-
proach to a hat at this present writing.
Singapore came into possession of the English in 1819,
through the agency of Sir Stamford Raffles, a bold and
enterprising navigator, who purchased it from the Ma-
layan Rajah for a stipulated sum and the promise of an
annual pension, upon which this dignitary still holds high
court with his numerous wives and children, in a small
village about a mile from the city; forming a rare, if not
solitary instance of good faith and justice on the part of
the great head of filibusterism. At the period referred
to, the population of the city amounted to no more than
6 * E


66 POPULATION OF SINGAPORE.
two or three hundred souls, but so rapid has been the
growth of its commercial importance, that it now con-
tains nearly 90,000—consisting of Jews, Arabs, Malays,
Klings from the coast of Malabar, and natives of all parts
of India. The number of Europeans does not exceed one
thousand, though they compose, of course, the wealthiest
and most influential class.
All these various nations and tribes live together in
great harmony, under the government of their civil and
military rulers. There is no religious intolerance either
—the long-tailed Chinaman — the turbaned Arab–and
the staid, pantalooned European, burn incense to Jos,
prostrate their forms in the mosque, or whisper to their
hats on entering into their well-cushioned pews, without
the slightest tendency to theological disputations, or doc-
trinal detractions. From this it may be inferred that the
greatest degree of religious freedom prevails in Singapore,
and, it may be added, that equal latitude is given to the
legitimate operations of trade, by way of accounting for
the remarkable prosperity and advancement of the place
in all that constitutes an enlightened and happy com-
munity.
The exports from Singapore consist of tin, nutmegs,
sugar, drugs, tortoise-shell, gambier, and other commodi-
ties—many of which are brought from the neighboring
islands by the natives in their proas, a style of craft pecu-
liar to this people, and from which, it has been said, the
model of our clipper-ships was taken. These boats are
seldom more than thirty or forty feet long, and very
narrow, having a sharp bow and stern, and carrying
very large sails, which gives them a decidedly unsafe
appearance to the eye of a European sailor. As they are


SAIL FOR HO N G KONG. 67
confined to mild latitudes and smooth seas, however, acci-
dents in the way of a capsize seldom occur. º
The island of Singapore is twenty-five miles long and
fifteen in breadth, containing an area of two hundred and
seventy-five square miles, with a diversified surface of
hills and valleys. The coast is low and covered with
mangroves, with here and there a salt creek running into
the interior, and creating marshes by their banks being
overflown.
We completed our preparations for the passage to Hong
Kong in the course of six days, by working day and night,
through rain and sunshine; and sailed on the 4th of May,
1858, having the cheering hope in our hearts of soon being
placed in possession of that greatest of all pleasures while
abroad—letters from home !


68 THE LADRONE. Is LANDs.
CHA PTER III.
Arrival at Hong Kong—Unfortunate again in a pilot—Ship stormed
by Chinese tailors, compradors, etc.—Com. Tattnall transfers his
flag to Powhatan–Sailing for home of San Jacinto—A “fast
boat”—Old Achin's family—Amusements at Hong Kong—Rice
fields—Sail for Gulf of Pecheelee.
WE made the passage to Hong Kong within eight
days, the distance being something more than sixteen
hundred miles by the course we took, along the western
edge of the China Sea, passing inside of Pulo Sapata, a
small island which lies off the eastern coast of Siam. On
the morning of the 12th of May, we made the Ladrone
Islands, a little to the southward of Hong Kong, and the
ship was soon afterwards surrounded by a large number
of Chinese fishing-boats, with their square flat-setting
mat sails and broad elevated sterns, looming up in the
distance with the appearance of large square-rigged
vessels. One of these odd-looking craft, with a red flag
flying at her masthead, seemed to be making strenuous
efforts to reach our ship, and taking it for granted that
she contained the very individual whose services we re-
quired, in the shape of a pilot, the bell was rung to “slow,”
and then to “stop.” The boat was soon brought along-
side in a very seaman-like manner, and a sharp-looking
Chinaman jumped on board, strode briskly up on to the
hurricane deck, and being shown to the captain, exhibited
to him in turn, his “branch" as a Hong Kong pilot. We
were soon under way again, under his directions as to


A CH IN ESE PILOT. 69
our course, and early in the forenoon we entered the
harbor, which, although large, seemed to be crowded with
vessels, and among them we soon descried the United
States steamer “San Jacinto,” with Commodore Tattnall's
broad pendant flying at her main royal masthead. A
salute of thirteen guns was fired immediately, in honor
of our Commander-in-chief, and answered with nine from
the San Jacinto.
The Chinese pilot whom we had taken on board out-
side the harbor, had an air of confidence in his profes-
sional skill, which forbade, in the outset, any suspicion
on our part of his real incapacity, and as neither the cap-
tain, master, nor executive officer had ever visited the
port before, to place implicit faith in the directions of
the pilot seemed the only safe means of reaching a favor-
able anchorage. What was our amazement, though,
when we discovered, after getting so hemmed in by
vessels on all sides as to render a moment's indecision a
certain catastrophe, that the “celestial” humbug wanted
to stop the ship and back her out of this position, with
the tide setting her rapidly down across the bows of
several vessels anchored close together, and within twenty
yards of our broadside. Seeing a clearer space a little
further ahead, I positively refused to comply with his
repeated and imploring request to “back,” until we had
safely passed the vessels lying under our port-beam, but
unfortunately, by this time the bows of the Powhatan had
reached the bulwarks of a large English ship lying at
anchor ahead, and came in collision with them just abaft
the fore chains, causing a trifling damage to the light
wood work, while her headway being thereby stopped,
and the tide operating on the starboard side, she swung
with her port quarter across the bows of a beautiful little


72 THE SAN JACINTo Ho MEWARD Bo UND.
ing to the views of many of our officers, who were eager
for the “pomp and circumstance of glorious war,” and
also a little desirous of promotion and prize money.
On the 14th of May, the San Jacinto got under way
for home, having been absent two years and a half, the
greater part of the time as the Flag-ship of Commodore
James Armstrong, under whose orders the barrier forts
in the Canton river were demolished in 1857, by the San
Jacincto, Portsmouth, and Levant. The failure of Com-
modore Armstrong's health a few months after this occur-
rence, compelled him to leave his post and return to the
United States, upon which Commodore Tattnall received
orders from the Navy Department to proceed to China,
via the overland route, and assume command of the
squadron. On his arrival at Hong Kong, he hoisted his
broad pendant on board the San Jacinto, retaining that
vessel as his flag-ship until the Powhatan's arrival.
Having been detained a few months beyond the allotted
duration of a cruise, according to the present “two years"
system for our men-of-war, the officers and crew of the
San Jacinto hailed our arrival with a more than ordinary
degree of satisfaction, and no time was lost by them in
completing the requisite preparations for the homeward
bound voyage. As the San Jacinto steamed out of the
harbor, she passed quite near to the Powhatan and gave
us three hearty cheers, with a parting salute to the Com-
modore; both which we duly returned, while our band
played “Home, sweet home,” with what, under the cir-
cumstances, we regarded as a most provoking degree of
pathos; the poor fellows composing our musical corps
doubtless thinking of their own far distant firesides, and
infusing into the plaintive strains their longing feelings
of love and regret for country and friends.


A PP EA R A N C E OF HON G. KONG. 73
The departure of the San Jacinto caused us all to feel as
if the “last link was broken" which bound us to the glorious
land of our nativity, but we soon realized the obligation
that henceforth we were bound to assume with cheerful
hearts and willing hands the responsibilities devolving
upon us as the representatives of our country's power,
and of her standing as one of the great nations of the
earth. Our preparations for the important service upon
which we soon expected to be employed, were pushed for-
ward with energy and zeal—coal, wood, water, provisions,
and stores of various kinds, for the different departments
of the ship, were hustled on board with a degree of expe-
dition which rather astonished the “natives,” and at the
end of nine days from the period of our arrival, we were
again under way.
While at Hong Kong I took an occasional walk on the
“Queen's road,” as the principal street is called, for the
purpose of observing the general appearance of the town,
which, by the way, bears the royal name of Victoria.
On the occasion of my first visit, I took passage to the
shore in company with several messmates, on board the
Chinese “Fast boat,” employed to perform the ordinary
boating duty between the ship and shore, and made the
acquaintance of a faithful old Chinaman who has devoted
himself and family to the service of American men-of-
war in these waters for more than thirty years past.
Many commanding officers in the navy have cause to re-
member old Achin with kindly feelings, for the faithful and
efficient manner in which he discharged the duties of “Fast
boatman” and pilot on board the ships under their com-
mand. He came to us with a “fuss chop,” “number one,
dation,” from the first Lieutenant of the San Jacinto, and
7


74 A “FAST BoA.T.’’
was, of course, employed without hesitation, at the rate
of $1.50 per diem.
When I embarked in this old gent's floating home, I
innocently imagined that the distance between the ship
and the shore was about to be annihilated in somewhat
similar style with such achievements in our own country,
especially as I had been informed by previous cruisers in
this part of the world, that these “fast boats” were re-
markable for their speed. I soon learned, however, that
their name was bestowed, not in consequence of the
celerity of their movements, but because they were the
only boats permitted to “make fast” astern of the ships
employing them—a striking exemplification of the way in
which travellers practise upon the credulity of their stay-
at-home friends; and while calling the sympathetic atten-
tion of my readers to this fact, let me inform them that
implicit reliance may be placed in the interpretation
which I have just given of the term. And now, having
set my reader and myself both right on this important
point, I will take my seat under the tent-shaped roof,
erected nearly in the centre of this singular craft, making
it appear like a cross between a thatched hut and a State
barge; and having assumed a comfortable position, look
around to see how things are managed generally. Glancing
forward, I see three long-tailed boys, varying in age from
ten to sixteen, tugging away at the oars on the starboard
side, and opposite to them—one man, and two rather good
looking girls (the latter being each about thirteen), en-
gaged in the same healthful exercise. At every stroke of
the oars the boys emit a simultaneous sound, compounded
of a grunt and a hiss, by way of encouragement, I pre-
sume, to the feminine rowers, who preserve a demure and
quiet demeanor under their hood-shaped handkerchiefs,


76 ACHIN's Do M ESTIC ARRANGEMENTs.
bulkhead of this spacious nursery was constructed with
sliding panels, and the frequency and facility with which
they were opened and shut by these little Celestials, cer-
tainly reminded one more of the antics of monkeys than
of human beings. Just below this apartment, but ex-
tending somewhat further forward, were the culinary
arrangements for the household—consisting of a box of
sand upon which to build the fire, and an iron pot in
which to boil the rice. Around the stern and quarter
were galleries a foot or more in width, for the reception
of any spare articles required in the domestic menage, as
well as for the stowage of boat-hooks, oars, etc. One
large sail near the centre of the boat, and a small one
placed so near the bow, and projecting so far beyond it,
as to suggest the idea of being about to jump overboard,
form the sailing equipments of the “fast boats;” and it
must be confessed they are by no means slow when these
sails, usually made of matting, are filled with a good
breeze. As for “beating to windward,” they are quite
equal, if not superior, to our crack bay and river craft.
This boat of thirty feet length, by seven in width, fur-
nished space enough, according to Chinese notions, for
the production, sustenance, amusement, exercise, and rest
of a family of thirteen persons, none of whom ever
touched the land except, perhaps, with a boat-hook. The
old man got off occasionally on what he called a “sky
pidgin,” when he had a special request to make of his
“Jos,” and wanted an excuse for drinking a little more
samshu than usual, generally returning from such pil-
grimages with a decidedly seedy aspect, and a slight
accession of dignity.
Notwithstanding the vigorous efforts and encouraging
grunts of our energetic rowers, the wind being adverse,


LANDING AT HON G KONG. 77
we were fully half an hour reaching the landing, where
the American flag was displayed by our Consul—General
Keenan; during this time the party in the boat did not
fail to make themselves thoroughly acquainted with the
past history, present condition, and future prospects of
each member of the numerous family which composed the
crew; related in a style, however, that would be rather
incomprehensible to the uninitiated reader.
Landing then, as I said before, under the shadow of
the “stars and stripes,” we pursued our course leisurely
toward the foot of the immense hills back of the town,
taking it for granted that we should come to a street
running parallel with the water before very long, and sure
enough, the first corner we reached turned us into the
“Queen's road,” a broad and smooth, but unpaved street,
leading from one end of the town to the other; the side-
walks are narrow and indifferently paved, causing pedes-
trians generally to prefer the middle of the street, where
there is a constant stream of humanity with its eddying
tides, pouring, tossing, and rushing in every direction
over its surface—composed of all ages, sexes, colors,
nations, and conditions. The Parsees, or Persians, were
more strongly represented here than at any other port
we had visited, and it was fair to conclude, from the hot
haste with which they rushed along, that their receipt of
several specimens of the “almighty dollar” was dependent
upon their early arrival at the other end of the avenue.
The shops were crowded in the same manner as the
boats and the streets, with myriads of human beings,
whose busy hands were plying with wonderful dexterity
and unremitting efforts, their various implements of trade.
Tailors, shoemakers, painters, workers in silver, ivory,
copper, tin, iron, and wood, abound on every side; and
7 *


78 EN TER PRISING COMMERCIAL HOUSES.
stores containing every variety of article manufactured
in Canton and the interior towns, excite the curiosity and
admiration of the stranger to such a degree that the wily
shopman finds but little difficulty in extorting from him a
few of his Mexican dollars, in exchange for the commodi-
ties which he knows so well how to commend.
There are many handsome and spacious residences on
this street, constructed on the European plan, and occu-
pied by merchants from Great Britain and America. At the
lower end there is a small open space, or parade ground,
where the soldiers from the adjoining barracks are drilled
occasionally, and where the Regimental Band performs
once a week for the edification of the élite of Hong Kong;
and also, I suppose, for the benefit of the “great un-
washed,” if they possess musical tastes, which I believe
the Chinese rarely do. This musical entertainment, to-
gether with periodical representations in the theatrical
line, gotten up by the English Army officers stationed
here, and patronized by subscriptions from the government
officials and the principal merchants, form the only sources
of amusement, apart from the annual horse-races on the
beautiful race-course at Happy Valley, some two miles
east of the city. The wealthy and enterprising British
houses of Jardine, Mathison, & Co., and Dent & Co., are
the rival establishments in procuring the best stock for
the sports of the turf in China, as well as in speculations
in opium, teas, silks, etc., and the amount they expend on
each of these objects seem quite fabulous to a new-comer.
There is only one American gentleman who participates
in these sports of the turf, except in the character of
spectator, and he is universally regarded as the Prince
of American merchants in China, if a royal title may be
applied to so fine a specimen of Yankee excellence. I


GOVERNMENT OF HONG KONG. 79
allude to the present representative of the house of Augus-
tine Heard & Co., John Heard, Esq., who will long be
remembered by the officers of the East India Squadron
who have visited China during the last five years, as one
of the most hospitable, refined, and intelligent gentlemen
they have ever known. He commands the respect, and,
I may say, the admiration of all who have the good for-
tune to make his acquaintance, either in the transaction
of business, or in the more agreeable intercourse of the
social circle. -
At the time of which I am writing, the island of Hong
Kong was under the civil government of Sir John Bow-
ring, but he was superseded in the following summer by
Sir Hercules Robinson—an exchange of rulers with which
the European inhabitants seem to have been extremely
well pleased, the former being a sort of poetical abstrac-
tionist, while the latter is a practical common sense man,
of good abilities and popular manners. Lady Robinson
may be said to add very materially to her husband's title
to public favor, as she appears to have created quite a
revolution in the state of society at Victoria, by breaking
down the wall of exclusiveness which had existed during
Sir John's administration, and making the gubernatorial
mansion the most charming place to visit on the island.
During this long digression from the course of my nar-
rative, the Powhatan had been prepared in every particu-
lar for an absence of six months, and on the morning of
the 21st of May, at early daylight, she was under way for
the Gulf of Pecheelee, the scene of our “masterly inac-
tivity" up to this time.


80 CH IN ES E FISHING - J U N RS.
CHA PTER IV.
Meet the Mississippi—Arrival at Shanghai– Appearance of the
town—American missionaries—Sail for the Gulf–Steam frigate
Minnesota—Sudden squall—Tragic result—Captain Dupont's
valet kidnapped by the Chinese–Valorous rescue by his gallant
master—Shabby treatment of American officers on board the gun-
boat “Woodcock”—Return of Minister Reed from Tientsin–
Salute to the Fourth of July–Participated in by all the foreign
men-of-war—Sail for Japan.
WITH moderate weather and smooth seas, we paddled
through Formosa channel meeting with nothing in the
way of interesting incident, and seeing nothing but
Chinese fishing-junks, of which “their name was legion.”
These hardy spoilers of the deep pursue their patient
calling at the distance, frequently, of a hundred miles or
more from the land, and in boats that have a most rickety
and unseaworthy appearance; encountering the full force
of the monsoons prevailing along the coast, and risking
the sudden destruction which follows in the track of the
Typhoon. Their vocation, however, makes them good
prognosticators of the weather, and it is believed that but
few of them suffer shipwreck from the periodical hurri-
Cane.
As our course to the Gulf of Pecheelee compelled us to
pass within a few miles of the entrance of the Woosung
river, Commodore Tattnall determined somewhatsuddenly,
to visit Shanghai, thinking it not improbable that he
might receive there important intelligence from the scene
of the recent warlike operations of the English and


A PLEASA NT ME ETING. 81
French at the mouth of the Pei-ho river, of which we had
heard vague accounts while at Hong Kong, but nothing
definite with regard to the course events had taken, sub-
sequent to the demolition of the forts, and ascent of the
river to Tientsin by the allied forces, with the Plenipo-
tentiaries of their respective nations. Accordingly, no
the evening of the 25th of May, we yielded a sullen obe-
dience to the dictates of prudence, as suggested by the
misty state of the weather, and let go an anchor near the
“Saddle islands,” situated at the distance of sixty miles
from Woosung. We commenced getting under way again
on the following morning, but soon had to relinquish the
idea on account of a thick fog setting in, and it was rather
fortunate that such was the case, as the delay resulted in
our meeting with one of the vessels of the squadron
directly from the Gulf of Pecheelee, with the very intelli-
gence of which the Commodore was in quest. About 6
A. M., a large steamer was discovered quite near us, appa-
rently feeling her way toward the same destination we
were seeking, and as soon as it was ascertained on board
the stranger that we were at anchor, we heard the sound
of her chain rattling through the hawse-hole, as she
dropped her anchor also, within half a mile of us. The
fog soon lifted, and we hoisted our colors, and the ship's
number, when to our great surprise the mysterious stranger
displayed the Yankee flag, and the number of the steam
frigate “Mississippi.” Captain Nicholson and several of
the officers soon came on board the Powhatan, and gave
us the first authentic information we had received of the
progress of events in the Gulf, from which desolate place
the Mississippi had returned to replenish her stock of
provisions, etc. For this purpose she was ordered by
the Commodore to proceed to Hong Kong instead of
F


82 WOOSUNG.
Shanghai, and as she departed we got under way for the
latter place. But the mists of the morning returning to
darken the evening atmosphere, we were obliged again
to anchor some thirty miles from our port. We learned
from the officers of the Mississippi that our Minister, the
Hon. W. B. Reed, had nearly concluded a treaty of amity
and commerce with the Chinese Commissioners at Tient-
sin, when the destruction of the forts at the mouth of
the Pei-ho by the belligerent allies, quashed the whole
business, and rendered it necessary for him to await the
result of their less pacific mode of negotiation.
On the morning of the 27th of May, the weather being
favorable, we steamed into the anchorage near Woosung,
some two miles above a filthy Chinese village of the same
name. The country on both banks of the river is flat
and uninteresting, save in the agricultural developments
produced by the industrious and economical husbandry
of the native population, which makes every inch of
ground contribute to the subsistence of the teeming
millions upon its surface. Comfortable farm-houses, and
thickly populated villages may be seen in every direction,
cosily embowered beneath the umbrageous foliage of the
camphor-tree, and the drooping boughs of the willow—
while the surrounding paddy—or rice-fields, approach to
within a few feet of these insular dwellings, leaving dry
ground sufficient only for the absolute necessities of their
primitive domestic arrangements. I had the pleasure of
travelling in company with a friend, on one occasion,
through these paddy fields, or along the narrow paths by
which they are separated; we journeyed in sedan-chairs,
each borne by two sturdy coolies, and I could not avoid a
feeling of surprise at the facility with which these “horses
without tails” threaded their way through the labyrinth


SHA N G HAI. 83
of narrow, muddy pathways. Observing a number of
oblong wooden structures, six or seven feet in length
and two or three in width, dispersed here and there over
the surface of the partially submerged rice-fields, I in-
quired of my compagnon du voyage, what they contained;
and learned, to my surprise, that they were the coffins
of the natives who had died on the farms through which
we were passing, and on a little closer examination of
one to which we passed quite near, I found that it was
made of very thick pieces of timber, and covered over
with a resinous substance to prevent decay. Large stones
were placed under each corner, to keep it out of the
water, and in this manner these wooden sarcophagi are
preserved from generation to generation.
The European quarter of Shanghai presents a cheerful
and elegant appearance from the river, the buildings being
mostly of stone, with large and airy verandahs, and sur-
rounded by handsomely ornamented grounds, where the
birds chirp and flit about among the trees in undisturbed
enjoyment of their cooling shades and waving branches.
But entering the city as I did, at the southwestern ex-
tremity, passing through the interminable rice-fields, and
the filthy purlieus where drunken sailors and the lowest
class of women “most do congregate,” is by no means
calculated to give one a very favorable impression of the
moral condition of the inhabitants, notwithstanding the
proximity of the missionary establishments. I therefore
take occasion to recommend all visitors to this growing
mart of Eastern commodities, to approach it by water, or
perhaps I had better say at once by the river, as there is
certainly much more water than earth visible along the
“overland route,” as the road from Woosung is somewhat
facetiously called.


84 A MERICAN MISSION A RIES.
The splendid mansions which line the “Bund,” on the
western bank of the river, are occupied by the members
of the large commercial houses, through which the con-
stantly increasing trade of Shanghai is conducted, and
they live in a style of magnificence which fully entitles
them to be called “merchant princes.” They are ex-
tremely hospitable and attentive to their countrymen who
come properly accredited to their notice, and I certainly
have great reason to remember gratefully their extreme
kindness to me personally, during my frequent visits to
the city. I allude, of course, to the American houses
alone; having formed no acquaintance among the Euro-
pean merchants or their families, I cannot presume to
venture an opinion concerning their treatment of the
visitors they may have among their respective country-
Inen.
The American missionaries occupy a prominent place
in the community, not only in a social sense, but in the
location of their residences, which are situated near the
western bank of the river, immediately adjoining the
other foreign habitations, the Hwangpu river, which is
here disembogued, forming the line of demarcation be-
tween them; this is crossed by a substantial bridge erected
in the line of the “Bund,” as the public walk along the
river front is called. The houses of these estimable con-
servators of the public morals are in admirable keeping
with the humility, and, at the same time, the respecta-
bility of their calling, being of much more unpretending
exterior than the generality of those occupied by persons
engaged in secular pursuits, and yet they may be called
handsome dwellings.
The Chinese city is separated from the European by a
stone wall, having a circuit of five miles, within which


CHINESE TRADESMEN. 85
the city proper is enclosed—though there are several
populous suburbs. The streets are narrow, and the popu-
lation extremely dense, as may be said also of the atmo-
sphere of horrible odors which surrounds their dwellings.
Two hundred thousand people live within the walls of the
city, and nearly half that number in the immediate
vicinity, independent of those who spend their lives on
the river, in the four or five thousand junks, sampans,
cargo-boats, etc.; numbering, perhaps, thirty thousand
more. One would certainly imagine, in walking through
the wretched streets and lanes of this place—lined on
each side with shops of every conceivable description,
and so teeming with half-naked, pumpkin-colored, shaven-
pated excrescences in the shape of humanity, as to make
a passage through the greasy crowds a difficult and by
no means pleasant task—that the Chinese were emphati-
cally a nation of shopmen, and that each man had made an
exact calculation of the amount of labor that would be
required during the term of his natural life, to enable him
to keep pace with his neighbor in the production of the
particular article of trade to which he had devoted his
time and talents, and thus to perpetuate the reciprocal
operations of internal commerce. Such is the air of lazy
indifference with which these incomprehensible Celestials
strike a “foreign devil” at first sight, and yet it is a well-
known fact that there does not exist a more ingenious or
industrious race, in a small way, and their shrewdness in
making a bargain, or taking advantage of a greenhorn
“seeing the elephant" for the first time, will compare
favorably with the far-famed Yankee keenness.
Shanghai is now regarded as the most important city
in China, Canton having been so seriously injured by the
attacks of foreign enemies, and the ravages of civil wars,
8


86 COMMERCE OF SHA N G IIA I.
as to reduce it to a second-rate town, and render it ex-
tremely doubtful whether the commercial supremacy of
the place can ever be re-established; the wealthy Chinese
merchants, who formerly collected the teas, silks, and
other commodities for the foreign Hongs, having nearly
all disappeared since the occupation of the city by the
allied forces of England and France. The export trade
of Shanghai now amounts to more than thirty millions
of dollars annually, and the imports to about one-third
of that sum. I do not pretend to give the exact figures,
having no intention of writing a history— only a hasty
sketch. Notwithstanding the surrounding rice-fields, the
climate is healthy, if temperance in eating and drinking
is observed — a subject to which the European and
American residents of the better class pay proper atten-
tion, though it cannot be denied that the 8 o'clock dinners,
from which they usually rise about midnight, have a
most injurious effect upon the system.
On the day following the arrival of the Powhatan at
Woosung, Commodore Tattnall proceeded by the river to
Shanghai in his barge, and remained there until the 1st
of June, collecting information relative to the state of
affairs in the Gulf of Pecheelee, whither he intended to
proceed with as little delay as possible, feeling himself
compelled by a sense of duty to be present during the
pending negotiations at Tientsin, though he would have
preferred, as a matter of course, a protracted cruise
around Cape Horn, to going there under existing circum-
stances. His patriotic and professional pride revolted at
the idea of appearing among the large number of English
and French men-of-war anchored off the mouth of the
Pei-ho, in the character of a passive spectator—or, “Jack-
all to the British lion"—with which opprobious epithet,


PASS A GE TO THE PEI - H. O. 87
among many others, the press in China had stigmatized
the position assumed by the Government of the United
States in its diplomatic intercourse with the Chinese.
But there was no alternative—the stern commands of
duty had to be obeyed at every sacrifice of personal feel-
ing, and no time was lost in continuing our voyage to the
scene of action. On the 2d of June, the muddy waters
of the Woosung were again stirred up by the revolving
wheels of the “ponderous steamer Powhatan,” as she was
sarcastically designated by the “London Times,” and we
bade adieu to the fast-receding shores without a shade
of regret, having before us the delightful prospect of a
visit to Japan, after spending a few days in the less
agreeable Gulf, to which we were in the first instance
destined.
Being again singularly favored by mild and lovely
weather, we had a quick and pleasant passage across the
Yellow Sea, and up the Gulf of Pecheelee to the anchorage,
where the allied squadrons had assembled, distant some
seven miles from the entrance to the Pei-ho, or White
River, which empties into the Gulf near its western ex-
tremity. The presence of the vessels at this point gave
the only indication we could discover of our near approach
to an anchorage; no signs of land being visible until we
had dropped the “mud hook,” and then the sites of the
newly-demolished forts looming up in the distance, afforded
the only ocular evidence of our proximity to the great
Northern Capital of the Empire, whose nominal ruler
claims such close relationship to the “Sun and Moon.”
We found here Admiral Seymour's flag-ship, the “Cal-
cutta,” of 74 guns, with several vessels of smaller class;
and a French frigate, bearing the flag of Admiral Rigault
de Genouilly, who commanded the French squadron, con-


88 THE RUSSIAN PL ENI POTENTIA R Y.
sisting of five or six vessels; making in all a force of fifteen
regular men-of-war, besides the gunboats which were kept
plying between the ships and Tientsin, some seventy
miles up the river, where the Plenipotentiaries of Eng-
land, France, Russia and America, were sojourning
during the negotiation of the treaties finally concluded
with the Chinese Commissioners.
The splendid steam frigate Minnesota, commanded by
Captain S. F. Dupont, was the sole representative of the
naval power of the great Western Republic, whose able
and accomplished Envoy Extraordinary, the Hon. Wm.
B. Reed, was endeavoring to achieve by pacific measures,
the same results for which the allies had already expended
so much blood and treasure, and whose Ambassadors were
sustained in their efforts to bring the wily and treacherous
Mandarins to terms, by the immediate presence of several
gun-boats and a considerable military force, at the very
doors of their official residence. The Russian Govern-
ment was represented by Admiral Count Poutiatine, who
combined the Naval Commander and the Diplomatic
Envoy in the most extraordinary and admirable manner,
having only the small steamer “America,” mounting four
guns, under his orders—more as a yacht to convey him
from place to place, than as a man-of-war. The entente
cordiale which existed between the Russian Envoy and
our Minister, excited considerable surprise, and some
little diplomatic distrust on the part of Lord Elgin and
Baron Gros, the English and French Ministers, although
they never gave any tangible evidence of their dissatis-
faction with its existence.
On the evening of our arrival (June 6th), we were
visited by several officers from the “Minnesota,” and
Captain Dupont came on board in a beautiful gig, upon


A DESTRUCTIVE SQUALL. 89
which he had recently expended much taste and labor,
to pay his respects to the Commodore. While he re-
mained on board, two large boats were employed trans-
porting to the Minnesota the numerous articles of provi-
sions, etc., which we had brought for her from Shanghai.
Among these were four bullocks, which were placed, “all
alive and kicking,” in the boats, and shoved off, as we
felt assured that they would be enabled to reach their
destination before the approach of a very ugly looking
squall, which was slowly rising from the northern horizon.
The boats had not pulled more than a quarter of a mile
from the ship, however, when this squall struck them
with such violence that they were fairly blown back
alongside, and as the ship received it on her broadside,
it caused her to careen over as much as if she had been
under sail in a close-reefed topsail breeze. The rain came
at the same time with blinding force, and the atmosphere
was, for a few moments, so darkened by the sheets of rain
and spray driven by the wind, that the boats and vessels
were totally obscured. In the midst of the confusion
necessarily arising from so sudden and terrific a convul-
sion of the elements, the cry was heard along the deck,
“A boat capsized alongside l’” Rushing to the starboard
gangway, Isaw the Minnesota's beautiful “gig" filled with
water, and thumping violently against the side of the
ship, having been just previously placed in readiness to
convey Captain Dupont back to his ship, with the crew
at their oars awaiting his coming. In a moment the
boat was whirled over on her side by the violence of the
wind and the suction created by the rapid swinging of the
ship to its direction—four of the men being dashed over-
board and instantly lost to sight, as they were swept astern
by the irresistible force of the waves before any assistance
8 +


90 MELAN CHOILY ACCII) ENT.
could be rendered them. Boats were lowered and manned
with almost superhuman dispatch, for we all felt that the
lives of four of our fellow-men depended on our efforts,
and by this time the atmosphere had cleared sufficiently
to enable those on board to discover two of the men
struggling in the rushing waves, at the distance of half a
mile from the ship. Their direction being pointed out to
the officers of the boats, the order was issued to “give
way,” and the men bent to their oars with a determina-
tion to save their comrades, if human power could avail
for their rescue. Meanwhile, the two boats belonging to
the Minnesota had approached sufficiently near to the
ship for the one containing the bullocks to be left in our
charge, while that which had been employed in towing it
was dispatched to the aid of the men in the water. She
soon succeeded in rescuing one of them, and the other
was picked up by one of our boats; both the poor fellows
being in the last feeble struggles of exhausted nature.
But there were still two of the boat's crew to be accounted
for, and search was made in every direction by the three
boats, bravely struggling with the wind and waves, but
no trace of them could be discovered; they had passed
forever from mortal sight, and the sea refused to give up
its prey. It was subsequently ascertained that they had
grasped the ship's rudder as the irresistible force of the
tide swept them astern, but the strong eddy caused by
the swinging of the ship to the wind soon compelled them
to relinquish their hold. One of the men who were saved
told me afterwards that he was near the unfortunates,
but totally unable to render any assistance as he saw
them go down, and that he had never in his life heard
any thing so dreadful as the death-wail of one of them
when he sank to rise no more. This extraordinary and


A CURIOU S P H E NOM EN ON . 91
tragical event produced a gloomy state of feeling on board
both ships, particularly as the loss of the men had re-
sulted from so common an occurrence as a squall—an
event which we were in the daily habit of witnessing
without serious consequences of any kind. The poor
bullocks had a terrible time of it, as they were kept in
the boat towing astern nearly five hours, thoroughly
drenched, and shivering with cold, while the boat pitched
so violently as occasionally to throw them off their legs;
and my sympathies were excited to such a degree that I
almost felt as if I would willingly change places with them
for a little while, if they could be thereby rendered more
comfortable. The colors of all the vessels present were
worn at half mast all the next day—this being the only
mark of respect that could be paid to the memory of the
unfortunate men so suddenly swept out of existence.
A few days subsequent to this sad occurrence, I wit-
nessed one of the most remarkable phenomena I have
ever seen, just previous to the commencement of our
usual afternoon squall. A dead calm prevailed for about
ten minutes, during which an occasional breath of hot air
would come off from the land, and all around us the wind
was blowing in puffs, with such violence as to lift the
water several feet into the air; during this time there
were flocks of sparrows and swarms of bees flying around
and all over the ship. The latter created considerable
amusement by flying at every one, and endeavoring to
take shelter about their persons, and, as may readily be
supposed, their familiarities were repelled with as much
dismay as indignation. The wind soon came, though,
with such force as to drive the poor creatures far out to
sea, from whence they were never to return to sip the


92 MoRTALITY AM on G FREN CH se AMEN.
sweets of Chinese flowers, or alarm the sensibilities of the
Powhatan's officers and crew.
Our introduction to the Gulf of Pecheelee had been by
no means sufficiently agreeable to lessen our anxiety to
leave it at the earliest possible moment. We were, in
fact, extremely impatient to be off for Japan, but we
waited in vain from day to day for the much-desired
order from our Commander-in-Chief; keeping the engines
in proper condition for immediate use, until four weary
weeks had worn away, without the occurrence of a single
incident to break the dull round of our daily duties,
except the funeral of some poor sailor who had died on
board the English or French hospital-ships. These mel-
ancholy pageants were more frequently exhibited by the
latter—that horrible malady, the dysentery, having
wasted the lives of many of their seamen. Their mode
of burial was exceedingly careless and indifferent, as it
seemed to us, for the bodies were merely sewn up in
black painted hammocks, and thrown overboard at the
distance of about a mile from the ship, without sufficient
weight attached to them to prevent their rising to the sur-
face, as the gases formed in the process of decomposition
gave them a tendency to do. The consequence was, that
the bodies of dead Frenchmen were constantly seen
“bobbing around” among the vessels, as if keeping time
to the motion of the waves; and the sight was by no
means pleasant even to us outsiders—what the living
Crapeaus thought of it, “deponent saith not,”hut their
sensibilities are not particularly keen, so I fancy they
were rather less annoyed by the gloomy spectacle than
our less volatile, but more sensitive race.
The weather was so frequently boisterous and rainy
during our stay here, that our visits to and from the


UN SUCCESSFUL ATTEM PT To KIDNA P. 93
“Minnesota” were decidedly of the angelic order, “few
and far between;" but several officers from both vessels
availed themselves of an opportunity, presented through
the kindness of the English Admiral, to take passage to
Tientsin in one of the gun-boats going up. Captain
Dupont had occasion to go up at the same time, on a visit
to Mr. Reed, and, expecting to be absent several days,
was attended by his Chinese valet. This fellow circulated
about the city without restraint, and, one afternoon, wan-
dered beyond the suburbs in company with a colored
gentleman of the same calling, belonging to the Legation,
where they were encountered by a considerable mob of
the natives, who attempted to kidnap the pair. But the
darkey took to his heels, and outstripped his pursuers
into the city, where, of course, he was safe. The Chinaman
being somewhat less fleet of foot, was overhauled, and
made prisoner; and upon his capture being reported to
the gallant Captain, his master, he soon collected about a
dozen of Uncle Sam's marines, and marched at their head
in search of his lost valet. Chancing to fall upon the
residence of a Mandarin, he called upon this functionary
to deliver him up, and the defenceless official was so over-
awed by the large force at his doors, that he promised
instant compliance with his demand, and in a few hours
the missing valet, or varlet, was forthcoming, with many
apologies for the annoyance to which the Captain had
been subjected by his absence. Captain Dupont after-
ward ascertained that the dwelling he had entered con-
4tained several high Mandarins, and the still higher Com-
missioner sent down from Peking by the “Brother to
the Sun and Moon,” to negotiate treaties of peace with
the representatives of all the mighty powers assembled
here to demand from him privileges which had never yet
been conceded to any nation on earth.


94 CH IN E S E DIPLO M. A. C. Y. -
About the same time, the English Admiral was hooted
at in the streets by a turbulent portion of the populace;
and two English Captains, who had strayed outside the
limits of the city, were stoned so vigorously as to be com-
pelled to run to “save their bacon,” in doing which one
of them lost his cap.
The officers who accepted the proffered conveyance up
the river to Tientsin in the gun-boat “Woodcock,” re-
turned quite indignant at the want of courtesy manifested
toward them by the Lieutenant in charge, who had not
even the civility to invite them on to the quarter-deck,
much less to offer them anything in the way of refresh-
ments. Fortunately, they were wise enough to go armed
and equipped against any serious inconvenience to the
“inner man,” and quietly seating themselves at the ap-
propriate hour, on spare spars, shot-boxes, or whatever
could be pressed into service as a seat, forward of the
main-mast, relished their bread and cheese, with the
“trimmings,” quite as much as if the gallant Lieutenant
had been ever so polite.
Vague and vexatious rumors occasionally reached us
relative to the progress of the pending negotiations, and
as “hope deferred maketh the heart sick,” poor John
Chinaman was rapidly contracting the direst animosity
of his hitherto peaceful neighbors from Yankee land, by
not signing the very reasonable Treaty we desired to con-
clude with him, and thereby obviating the necessity for
our longer delay in these miserable waters. Vessels were
frequently arriving from Hong Kong and Shanghai, but,
from some inexplicable cause our letters were not for-
warded to us, and we were left in total ignorance of all
that concerned us most nearly — our families and friends
—in the glorious land where peace, liberty, and enlighten-
ment are so universal and so common as to be scarcely


THE TREATIES CONCLUDED. 95
appreciated at their proper value by those who never
have the opportunity of contrasting their condition, face
to face, with the people of the older nations of the earth.
On the 28th of June, the number of vessels at anchor off
the mouth of the Pei-ho amounted to twenty-two, several
having arrived within a few days previous, bringing fresh
troops for a contemplated invasion of the “Celestial City”
of Peking, in the event of a refusal on the part of the
Mandarins to sign the proposed Treaty; but, as the sequel
will show, they had no idea of subjecting themselves to
any such disastrous consequences of their obstinacy, until
they were somewhat better prepared to encounter them;
so they signed the Treaties on the 25th of June, with all
the Powers represented, reserving to themselves, privately,
the course most likely to be adopted by their government
when the year rolled round, at the end of which an ex-
change of the ratification of these Treaties was stipulated
to take place in Peking, excepting only in that entered
into with the American minister, which specified no par-
ticular place for this purpose.
On the 3d of July, the Hon. Mr. Reed returned from
Tientsin in the Russian steamer “America,” which had
been placed at his disposal by Count Poutiatine, and re-
sumed his quarters on board the “Minnesota"—an event
which was hailed by all good Yankees present with joyful
hearts, as we now began to see our way clear out of this
doubly mystified region. It was soon announced that the
“Minnesota” would proceed immediately to Shanghai,
with Mr. Reed on board, to replenish her supplies, after
which she would rejoin us in Japan.
English transports, and French gun-boats continued to
arrive, until the number swelled to thirty vessels, an-
chored in our immediate vicinity; all of which, however,
were soon to be dispersed to various ports on the coasts





* 1x v S v 0w N
…10
ſoºſ '81 v H (1 Nºv 2，1,1）
ººm º:
•••••••• • • • www.7 ±
|-º ：
•，，z ， ！）：ºffſ
（~~~~ // ∂…"º.№：
ºz， ~~~~ ~~~~ººv,，-
----* \ſ）*?）（
•••••••••••••••••••••••• •！**
， ， º（Sº
， ，
|-！----№№ ）！：-！==！ 7***
--~
© |---------ſw
！ºſº
！\！~, ,


THE ISLAND OF IW OS IMA. 97
CHA PTE R. W.
Arrival at Nagasaki—Lovely scenery—Sham forts—Singular boats
—Visit from Japanese officials—Present of fruits, poultry, etc.,
to Commodore Tattnall from the Governor—The “Jack of Clubs.”
—Visit to the Governor—Smiling welcome from the natives—
Description of the Governor's residence—Dress of the high offi-
cials—Happy looking people—Their courteous manners—Female
dress—The bazaars—Tempting goods—Heathen temples—The
wax-plant—Japanese riding-school—Early intercourse with the
Dutch—National traits—Domestic life—Visit of the Governor to
the Powhatan–Liberty to the crew—Extensive purchases by
the officers.
AFTER a pleasant passage of nearly four days we
reached our destined port, and when I was called on deck
at 6 o'clock in the morning to “bring ship to anchor,” I
looked around in amazement and delight at finding that
we were in the act of entering one of the most beautiful
bays I had ever beheld. As we progressed toward our
anchorage new beauties and scenes, each of which seemed
more strange and picturesque than the last, crowded upon
our view, until we came within half a mile of the hand-
some city of Nagasaki, situated at the head of the bay
known by the same name.
The island of Iwosima, on the eastern side of the en-
trance, is elevated some 500 feet above the level of the
sea, and on its summit is placed a telegraph station, from
which the approach of vessels in the distance is made
known to the guard kept in a small fort built on an
island on the opposite side of the bay, who immediately
G


98 C H A R MING SCEN E R Y.
fire a gun, the sound of which is repeated from hill-top
to hill-top by others stationed at regular intervals, until it
reaches the city of Yedo, distant nearly seven hundred
miles. Islands of picturesque form rise abruptly from
the water, most of them covered with verdure, while
others are too rocky and precipitous to admit of vegeta-
tion. The most remarkable of these is situated about a
mile and a half from the western end of Iwosima, and is
called, in the language of the country, Taka Boko, or
high mountain of Bamboos, but the Dutch gave it the
name of Pappenberg more than two centuries ago, and
it has since retained its foreign appellation. It was from
the precipitous heights of this small island that thousands
of Christians were cast headlong into the sea, during the
terrible persecution of that sect, which continued almost
without intermission from the year 1586 to 1638. Foreign
vessels were formerly prohibited from proceeding beyond
this point, and we found a guard-boat stationed here with a
government official in charge, but he made no show of
opposition to our progress, and as we were bound to go
on, it was just as well that he saved himself the useless
effort, and continued in the quiet enjoyment of his pipe.
Embowered amidst the foliage which crowned the rock,
could be seen a cosy little dwelling, peeping out like a shy
beauty from the dark foliage which surrounded it, and
having a road leading from its sheltered nook to the
landing below on the eastern side. Clusters of neat look-
ing houses, with high thatched roofs, were seen snugly
reposing in the beautiful valleys running up between the
hills, which frequently terminated abruptly at the water's
edge. Guns of large calibre were discovered on each side
of the bay, mounted generally upon low mounds, raised
on all the salient points, and covered with sheds to pro-


--------
SH AM DEFENCES. 99
tect them from the weather. A few soldiers keep “watch
and ward” near each of these batteries, but they have the
appearance of being placed there more for the purpose of
presenting a warlike aspect than as any practical means
of defence—an idea even more forcibly suggested by the
long lines of cotton-cloth, with black squares painted upon
them at regular intervals, to represent gun-ports, which
we saw at three different points on the bay. Passing the
island of Pappenberg, the ship's head is turned directly
up the bay at its narrowest part, being not more than
half a mile in width, the gently sloping hills rising on
each side in every graceful and picturesque variety of
form, up to the anchorage near the city, which is built
principally on the level ground of a rich and romantic
valley between two of the hills at the head of the bay,
running up their sides to a considerable height. Above
the habitations of the living, could be discerned the neat
and simple gravestones which invariably mark the rest-
ing-places of the dead in this civilized but as yet un-
christianized country.
Boats of singular construction, and propelled in a some-
what novel manner by athletic men almost in a state of
nudity, swarmed around the ship, and could be seen
moving slowly over the clear waters of the beautiful
harbor in every direction, many of them carrying living
cargoes of men and women, all of whom stared at our
monster steamer with undisguised amazement. The larger
class of boats appeared to have something of an official
character; and to distinguish them from the others, they
wore a flag on each quarter, suspended from a pole some
eight or ten feet in length, with a short rod placed at
right angles, to stretch the flag so that the figures thereon
could be plainly seen, giving the arrangement somewhat


100 THE ‘‘JACK OF CLUBs.”
the appearance of a sign for a country tavern. Our
anchor had been dropped but a few moments when one
of these high-prowed craft was sculled alongside in rapid
style, by four jolly looking fellows, while the same number
of sober, genteel officials were seated on their haunches in
the bottom of the boat, or rather on a low platform raised
from the sides. These officials were soon on board with
some of their attendants, bearing baskets of poultry, fruits,
and vegetables, as a complimentary offering of hospitality
from the Governor to our Commander-in-chief. They all
gave unmistakeable evidence of astonishment at the size
of the ship and her equipments—asked numerous ques-
tions relative to the object of our visit, whence we came,
etc.—one of them speaking English quite intelligibly,
This rather outré looking gentlemen proved to be one of
the government interpreters, and from his peculiar cos-
tume, was immediately dubbed the “Jack of Clubs” by
one of the wags among the crew, which soubriquet ad-
hered to him during all our subsequent visits to Nagasaki.
He wore tight fitting breeches, into which his extremities
appeared to have been moulded, with straw sandals on
his feet, and the ordinary silk tunic, worn by all officials
and gentlemen, over the upper part of his person, while
two formidable looking swords thrust through his girdle,
and gently lifting the skirt of his garment behind, gave
token of his official dignity, and subject for ridicule to his
less elegantly attired beholders. After a short and inter-
esting interview with Commodore Tattnall, our visitors
returned on shore, whither they were soon followed by
the Flag-Lieutenant, commissioned to call upon the
Governor and thank him for his courtesy, and at the
same time to request him to appoint a day and hour when
it would be agreeable to receive a visit from the Ameri-


VISIT TO HIGH OFFICIALS. 101
can Naval Commander-in-Chief. The day succeeding our
arrival was named for this purpose, and at the appointed
hour the Commodore, attended by ten commissioned
officers from the ship, proceeded on shore to pay this visit
of ceremony. I had the honor of forming one of the party,
and it was certainly one of the most interesting occasions
of the sort within my experience. Being a state affair,
the officers, of course, were all dressed in full uniform,
with epaulettes, cocked hats, and swords; and as we
marched through the streets, a distance of something
more than a mile to the Governor's palace, our appearance
excited the liveliest curiosity, and seemingly the most
agreeable surprise on the part of the native population.
We were greeted by smiles of welcome from both sexes,
of all ages and conditions, though here and there a chubby
urchin would be seen scampering out of our line of march,
as if he apprehended instant destruction.
“Ohi-o,” and “bouton cassi,” signifying “how-d'ye-
do,” and “give me a button,” were the only intelligible
sounds in their language which met our ears; and they
seemed to come from so many lips at once, that any re-
sponse on our part would have been equally useless and
indecorous, considering the dignified character of the ser-
vice upon which we were employed. Arriving at the
Governor's residence, we were struck by the neatness and
simplicity of its exterior, and prepared, in some measure,
for the greater display of these characteristics which we
found within. Grave and respectful officials, with smooth-
shaven heads, and the inevitable pair of swords in their
girdles, received us at the entrance, and conducted us
through the large hall, or ante-chamber, to the reception
room beyond. All the floors were covered with matting
three inches in thickness, and spotlessly clean—the cus-
9 *


102 THE GOVERNOR OF NAGASA. K.I.
tom of the country requiring the removal of the sandals
worn by the natives, before entering any room covered
with it; and but for the respectful consideration for for-
eign peculiarities, which prevails to a great extent among
the Japanese, this rule would have been equally obligatory
upon their visitors. The true politeness which always
suggests conformity to the regulations of a host's esta-
blishment, caused us to feel really reluctant to soil the
nice matting with our dusty boots; and our Commander
and his suite walked into the presence of the Governor
somewhat after the manner of cats on wet ground.
The first symptom of furniture of any description in
this extensive building, was here made manifest in the
shape of a row of small tables on each side of the room,
with arm-chairs placed near them, of primitive construc-
tion, but beautifully polished with lacquer. In these
chairs we were soon seated, in the order of our respective
military rank. The venerable Governor and his Vice were
similarly placed immediately opposite, with two or three
subordinate officials standing in the rear; while the Japan-
ese Interpreter was stationed, on his knees, in the vacant
space between the “high contracting parties,” in company
with a “jolly” Dutchman from the steam-frigate Missis-
sippi, in whose native tongue sundry complimentary ex-
pressions were conveyed from our distinguished Com-
mander-in-Chief to the Japanese linguist, who repeated
them to the Governor in his own language, and received
his replies.
The Governor appeared to be an intelligent and pol-
ished gentleman—his age not far from sixty—and it was
understood that he was expecting soon to be removed to
a more important post at Yedo, when the Vice-Governor
present would become his successor. The latter gentle-


A JAPAN ESE CUISINE. 103
man was evidently a specimen of “young Japan,” being
only about thirty years of age, and presenting the general
appearance of a “jolly good fellow.” The costume of
these high officials differed from any we had seen before,
having, in addition to the silk tunic, an outer garment
extending several inches beyond each shoulder, and slo-
ping toward the waist before and behind: the material
of which they were made was of delicate texture and
light color, stiffly starched, giving them rather an
Episcopal aspect. The most cordial good will was ex-
pressed on both sides, and numerous questions were asked
by the Governor relative to our country, etc., the replies
being listened to with great apparent interest. The Japan-
ese were all dressed in exceedingly neat and tasteful
costumes, admirably adapted to the climate, and entirely
without ornament, all, however, wearing two handsome
swords in their girdles, the universal appendages to every
gentleman's dress. The ordinary people only wear one
sword; and there is a law of the land which prohibits
the people from disposing of their swords to foreigners,
upon any terms whatever. The ostensible object of our
visit being accomplished, refreshments were placed before
us, consisting of fish, chicken, and vegetables, served up
in the minutest particles on small wooden plates, accom-
panied with sundry condiments to impart a relish to the
otherwise insipid dishes; among these was a dark liquid
called “soya,” extracted from the ordinary white bean,
and resembling in flavor the English fish sauce. It hav-
ing been hinted to us by our Dutch friend from the Mis-
sissippi—which ship had preceded us in our visit to the
port—that etiquette required us to partake of all the
viands placed before us, we proceeded to devote ourselves
with due zeal to the task in hand, each individual playing


104 A wa LK THROUGH NAGASAKI.
his part with more or less energy, according to the state
of his appetite, and the confiding disposition which led
him to take upon trust the unknown dishes provided for
consumption. I rather think, however, we all acquitted
ourselves very creditably on the occasion, and that the
Governor had no reason to complain of injustice done to
his hospitality.
This agreeable part of our ceremonial visit being con-
cluded, we took our departure in the same quiet and
stately manner with which we had entered the presence;
but fairly in the street again, each was eager to express
the surprise and admiration created in every breast by
the easy and elegant affability of Japanese gentlemen, as
represented by the two distinguished officials whom we
had just left—far exceeding the impressions derived from
a perusal of the various books that have been written to
describe the country and its people.
Instead of returning immediately to the ship, the
majority of our party strolled through the clean and quiet
streets, thronged though they were with a multitude of
happy-looking people, of all ages, who seemed to regard
us with intense interest, but without the remotest ap-
proach to fear or contempt. Any demonstration on our
part of a desire to become acquainted, was received by
them with eager cordiality, frequently attended, however,
with urgent appeals for our buttons, which could not
have been more eagerly coveted by these unsophisticated
people had they been made of pure gold, which probably
they supposed was the case.
The costume of a large portion of the female inhabit-
ants whom we encountered, could not fail to excite our
attention and surprise—the first because, in many in-
stances, it gratified our admiration of the beauties of


106 TREASURY OFFICIAL S.
pany, served as a guide to the Russian and Dutch
Bazaars, the former of which is situated within the city,
and the latter on the Island of Decima, to which the
Dutch residents have long been confined. While passing
through the streets, we had given hasty glances toward a
variety of curious and beautiful articles peculiar to the
country, which were displayed in the shops; but on en-
tering the Russian Bazaar, we were astonished at every
step by the specimens of highly finished lacquer ware,
bright-colored crockery, delicately woven and tastefully
formed basket-work, handsome silks, and an infinite
variety of bronze ornaments, at prices which seemed to
us ridiculously cheap. Their vendors exhibited somewhat
more than Yankee eagerness to “trade,” and had already
learned to charge a considerable advance upon the price
they were ultimately willing to accept for their goods.
Before we could make any purchases, it became necessary
to exchange our silver dollars for the paper currency then
in use at Nagasaki, but which has since happily vanished
on the introduction of the “almighty dollar.” To effect
this exchange, it was necessary to make the acquaintance
of the obliging Treasury Agents, stationed in a neat little
office within the same enclosure containing the Bazaar;
where our business was dispatched in regular methodical
order, without haste or confusion, though I must confess
their calm imperturbability had rather an irritating effect
upon the more impatient spirits among us, who were
anxious to commence their purchases without delay; but
we might as well expect to make time pass more quickly
by shaking the hour-glass which marks its progress, as
hope to expedite our business by any manifestations of
being in haste to be gone. The polite officials smile
amiably at our impatience, but make not the slightest


PA PER C U R REN C Y OF NAGASA K.I. 107
effort to accelerate their movements in our behalf; evi-
dently regarding us with the same indulgent feeling ex-
hibited by a judicious nurse toward her young and unrea-
soning charge. Meanwhile, I will take advantage of the
interval caused by the delay in receiving our change, to
give my reader a brief account of this paper currency,
which consisted of small strips of paper, similar to those
which we use as candle-lighters, the size of the strip
varying with the amount of taels it is intended to repre-
sent, and the denomination of the bill, (if so respectable
an appellation may be so unworthily applied,) being
printed in Japanese characters on one side, and in Dutch
on the other. The representative value of one tael, was
twenty-three and one-third cents of our coin. The smaller
change consisted of “mace,” also of paper, valued at about
two cents, and of “can” and “cash,” made of copper and
iron, which have an infinitesimal value. This currency
has since been superseded by the gold and silver cobangs
and itzebus; but the restriction which prohibits merchants
from receiving any foreign coin, renders it exceedingly
difficult and inconvenient to transact business, even upon
the small scale to which naval officers generally are com-
pelled to restrict their operations. -
Having at last secured our taels, etc., we scattered
around the large square containing the Bazaar, and pro-
ceeded to make our respective selections, each one intent
upon driving a good bargain with the sharp but eager
merchants; and it was amusing to hear the ingenious
excuses we all invented for the purchase of perfectly use-
less, but rare and beautiful articles, which we bought
simply on the ground that they were “so very cheap.”
I purchased first one little thing and then another, until
I found myself with quite a collection of boxes, vases, etc.,


108 NOV E L SIGHTS.
at very little cost. We paid the Dutch Bazaar a visit,
also, where we found a greater variety of lacquer-ware of
superior description, and when sunset warned us to return
to our floating home, two or three boats were required to
convey our purchases on board.
I had not been so engrossed by admiration of the beau-
tiful works of art presented to our view for the first time
in the Bazaars, as entirely to disregard the numberless
strange objects that pressed upon my attention in this
hitherto secluded spot. The extraordinary harmony and
cheerfulness which appeared to prevail among the people,
the extreme cleanliness of the streets and houses, the
numberless shops, the peculiar dress, or rather undress,
of the women, the swarms of pretty children, ugly dogs,
and cats without tails, that I encountered in passing
through the streets, had all interested and amused me;
and I resolved to embrace the earliest opportunity of
becoming better acquainted with the past history and
present condition of the city, as well as the country in
general, which had been so recently introduced as a new
member to the great family of nations. For this purpose
I consulted the learned and truthful Kempfer on the
past, and an intelligent and polite Dutch naval officer,
who had been residing two years at Nagasaki, with regard
to the present.
Captain Von Kattendyke, the Dutch gentleman alluded
to, had been employed by the Japanese Government to
instruct a number of the “young bloods” of the country
in the mysteries of nautical science; and, for this purpose,
had established on shore an excellent school for the the-
oretical branches, while an occasional cruise in a snug
little screw steamer of about 500 tons, built in Holland,
served to give them practical knowledge of the delights


DECIMA. - -109
of a sailor's life, and of the manner of organizing and
directing the movements of a man-of-war, according to
the modern system. The Captain was assisted in his
laudable endeavor to “teach the young idea how to
shoot,” by two able and accomplished Lieutenants, to-
gether with a Purser and Surgeon, all of whom resided
on shore in the Dutch quarter of Decima, which, in the
Japanese language, signifies Island in front of the town.
The residence of the Dutch Commissioner, Donker Cur-
tius, was also fixed on this island, in a neat stone build-
ing, with large and handsomely furnished rooms, in
which he has spent the greater part of the last six years
as Superintendent of the Dutch trade with Nagasaki.
I had the pleasure, on several occasions, of accompa-
nying Capt. Von Kattendyke in an evening walk through
the city and the suburbs, where the temples are usu-
ally to be found, and he proved a most instructive and
agreeable cicerone, in not only bringing to my notice
many objects of interest, but also in throwing considerable
light on points which I might otherwise have found some
difficulty in understanding. The temples are always
situated on some beautiful eminence, and are surrounded
by splendid trees, and the most luxuriant shrubbery—
affording, from their airy heights, such magnificent views
of earth, sea, and sky, that we feel whoever located them
must have possessed artistic taste, and a love of the beau-
tiful, in no ordinary degree. Passing through the gate-
way at the foot of the hill, which consists of two granite
pillars, spanned at the top by a slab extending beyond
them, we commenced the ascent by means of long flights
of smooth, wide steps, interrupted occasionally by broad
platforms, on each side of which are placed stone pillars,
surmounted by carvings intended to represent lanterns.
10 g


110 BU DD HIST TEMPL ES.
The upper platform is much wider than those below, and
being extended greatly beyond the ordinary width of the
steps, becomes the location for two small but highly orna-
mented edifices, one on each side, erected to some par-
ticular idols, before which lights are constantly kept
burning. The entrance to the main temple is approached
from this point by a short flight of steps extending nearly
the entire width of the front, and, on entering, the atten-
tion is first attracted by an altar, placed in the rear of a
large room, behind which are from two to five figures of
monstrous proportions, in the human form, painted and
gilded in the most elaborate and grotesque manner, and
holding in their hands, as they sit in grim and solemn
majesty, some emblem of the omnipotence they are sup-
posed to possess. Braziers filled with ashes are placed
before the altar, in which votive jos-sticks are kept con-
stantly burning by the penitent or supplicating worship-
pers, who are coming and going at all hours of the day,
and consist generally of the poorest and most ignorant
class. There is great similarity in the construction and
interior arrangement of all these Buddhist temples, and
the difference between them and those dedicated to the
worship of the various other sects existing in the country,
is too small to be remarked by a casual observer, unini-
tiated in the mysteries of paganism.
From the temple consecrated to the rites and ceremo-
nies by which these singular people propitiate their fabu-
lous deities, I was conducted by the gallant Captain to
the theatre, where we found the performers in full blast,
under a roofing of mats covering a space about sixty feet
square; the stage being in the centre, and the audience
occupying a platform raised about three feet from the
ground, and partially covered with soft matting, on which


---
J A PAN ESE THEATRICA LS. 111
they were seated. There were several actors of both
sexes, and varying in age from five-to fifty years, who
kept up a sort of improvised colloquy, which must have
been extremely facetious, and well appreciated by the
audience, judging from the shouts of laughter which oc-
casionally made the rafters ring with mirth. The impos-
sibility of comprehending the nature of the representation,
or the language of the actors, suggested the propriety of
making but a brief visit to this establishment; and taking
leave, we walked to the side of a small stream running
through the town, where my attention was directed to a
mill worked by water power, where the berries which
yield the beautiful white wax peculiar to Japan, are
crushed and boiled down, then made into large square
cakes for shipment. The trees on which the berries grow
are about the size of our ordinary peach trees; they are
gathered in the fall, and converted by a very simple pro-
cess into the beautiful wax which has for centuries past
formed an important article of commerce from this place.
The Dutch formerly bought it at three cents per pound,
and sold it in Holland at an immense advance on the
original cost, but the increased demand created by the open-
ing of the port to European and American commerce, has
caused it to command a much higher price than formerly.
On a subsequent occasion I visited the riding-school for
Japanese youths, conducted by the Dutch officers stationed
at Nagasaki, where I found forty or fifty active young
men, going through with sundry cavalry manoeuvres at
the word of command, mounted on small but spirited
horses. The equestrian performances were sufficiently
ludicrous in themselves, but the extraordinary rig of the
riders rendered the scene still more provocative of mirth,
and I found great difficulty in maintaining the suitable


112 LUDIC Rous CAVALRY EQUIPMENTs.
gravity required by etiquette on the occasion. The legs
of these young equestrians were encased in tight fitting
drawers of blue cotton, and their bodies enveloped in the
ample folds of a loose tunic reaching nearly to the knee,
but the hat formed the most remarkable part of the dress;
this consisted of a flat circular board brightened with
lacquer, and having a concave centre to receive the crown
of the head; to keep this singular invention firmly in
position, it was necessary to use a complete network of
lashings under the chin, and around the neck and face,
producing the general effect of a man in a cross-barred
helmet, flattened at the top. The style of saddle used by
these hardy aspirants for military distinction was admira-
bly calculated to produce indurations on their persons, if
not to excite their pugnacious propensities, consisting of
nothing more than a roughly made tree, with a thin
covering of leather, and the stirrups were the most inge-
nious arrangement for cramping the feet which could well
be devised—being made of iron half an inch thick, in the
form of a Turkish slipper, so that the toes rest against
the inner side of the curve, and the heel on the other
end, which is also turned upward. The constant attention
of the rider is required to keep these unwieldy appendages
from coming in contact with the sides of the horse—an
event which is usually followed by most uncomfortable,
not to say unsafe, plunges and kickings on the part of
these vicious little brutes.
Until this port was opened to foreign commerce, on the
4th of July, 1858, the advances made by the Japanese in
adopting the “go-ahead” principles of Yankee enterprise,
were not very great; the Dutch having been content,
during the 225 years they had enjoyed the almost exclu-
sive possession of the trade with this remarkable people,


com. MERCE OF Hol. LAND AND JAPAN. 113
to reap the large profits accruing from their commercial
intercourse, without caring much to advance the civiliza-
tion and improvement of the people. Their exportations
amounted in the aggregate to between three and four
hundred thousand dollars per annum, upon which they
made enormous profits, and their importations were, also,
a source of immense gain. The restrictions imposed upon
them by the Japanese, will account, in a great measure,
for the apparent lack of commercial energy, as there can
be no doubt that the Dutch were fully sensible of the im-
portance of extending their operations, if they could only
have secured the privilege from the suspicious and exact-
ing people with whom they had to deal. Koempfer,
although a Dutchman himself, is the best authority on
this subject. He says:
“The Dutch, allured by the advantageous trade of the
Portuguese, resolved, not long after the establishment of
their East India Company, and in the very infancy of
their navigations into the Indies, about the beginning of
the last century, (he writes in 1727) to make proper
settlements in Japan, and to provide for the reception of
the ships and goods which they intended to send thither
every year. Their first factory and habitation was built
on a small island, not far from the town of Firando, and
made contiguous to the same by a bridge. They were the
more welcome and the better received, the greater enemies
they were to those whom the supreme power had then
already resolved to get rid of, and to expel the country,
I mean the Portuguese. This nation, indeed, used their
utmost endeavors, and all the interest and credit they
had as yet preserved with several great men in the Em-
pire, to crush the Dutch establishments in the very begin-
ning, and to engross the whole trade to themselves; but
10 * II


114 DUTCH PRIVILE GES IN JAPAN.
all was in vain. The then reigning Emperor, Ijejas, who
was after his death called Gongen, granted the Dutch, in
the year 1601, a free trade to all his dominions, by an
express Gosjunim, as they call it, which in the literal
sense implies a great Cinnaber mark, and must be under-
stood of Imperial letters patents, signed by all the Coun-
cillors of State, and sealed with the red Imperial seal,
whence the whole instrument hath borrowed its name.
By virtue of these Imperial letters patents, the Dutch
had leave to import and dispose of their goods in all parts
of the Emperor's dominions, and this permission was
backed with a strong recommendation to all his subjects
to forward and to assist them as much as lay in their
power, the whole in very significant and favorable terms
and characters. After the death of Ijejas, the Dutch
applied for a renewal of their privilege. This imprudent
step being entirely contrary to the custom of the Japanese
nation, which hath a great regard for, and inviolably
keeps, the laws and promises made by their ancestors,
their demand indeed was granted, and their privilege
renewed, much upon the same terms, but in more disad-
vantageous characters. Meanwhile, the prosperity of the
Portuguese nation was daily decreasing and hastening to
a fatal period, the Dutch, on their side, left no stone un-
turned, upon their impending ruin, to build a foundation
for their own establishment. No trouble, no expences,
were spared to please the Emperor, upon whom alone all
the good or bad success of their trade depended. What-
ever could be thought of, was done to oblige the Council-
lors of State, particularly the Prince of Firando, and
other great men, who had it in their power to promote or
to hinder their credit and interest at court. The most
exquisite curiosities of nature and art were purchased and


RIVALRY of DUTCH AND Portugu ESE. 115
brought over for the annual presents. The oddest and
scarcest animals, in particular, were bought up in the
remotest kingdoms of Europe, Persia, and the Indies, to
have wherewithal to satisfie their demands, ridiculous and
fanciful as they generally were, and of animals so strange
in their nature, colours, and shape, as perhaps never ex-
isted in nature, though they pretended to give us the
drawings of them in order to enable us to find them out.
In short, the interest of the Dutch, and the great profits
which were likely to accrue to their East India company
from so advantageous a branch of trade, if they could
maintain themselves in credit and favor with this nation,
put them under an absolute necessity, blindly and pas-
sively to obey what commands were laid upon them, how
hard and unreasonable soever.—Our humble, complaisant,
and obliging conduct notwithstanding, we were so far
from bringing this proud and jealous nation to any greater
confidence, or more intimate friendship, that on the con-
trary, their jealousy and mistrust seem'd to increase in
proportion to the many convincing proofs of sincerity and
faithfulness we gave them, and that the better we deserved
of them, the more they seem'd to hate and despise us, till
at last, in the year 1641, soon after the total expulsion
of the Portuguese, orders were sent us to quit our old
factory at Firando, to exchange the protection of a good
and indulgent Prince, for the severe and strict govern-
ment of Nagasaki, and under a very narrow inspection,
to confine ourselves within that small island, I should
rather say prison, which was built for the Portuguese.
So great was the covetousness of the Dutch, and so great
the alluring power of the Japanese gold, that rather than
to quit the prospect of a trade, indeed most advantageous,
they willingly underwent an almost perpetual imprison-


116 JEALO USY OF THE NATIVES.
ment, for such in fact is our stay at Desima, and chose to
suffer many hardships in a foreign and heathen country,
to be remiss in performing Divine service on Sundays and
solemn festivals, to leave off praying and singing of psalms
in publick, entirely to avoid the sign of the cross, the
calling upon Christ in presence of the natives, and all the
outward marks of Christianity, and lastly, patiently and
submissively to bear the abusive and injurious behaviour
of these proud Infidels towards us, than which nothing
can be offered more shocking to a generous and noble
mind.”
Within the enclosure of this isolated and contracted
space, the unhappy Dutchmen were kept under the most
rigorous restrictions and the most suspicious system of
espionage; there being an official of high responsibility,
appointed by the Emperor, especially to supervise all
their commercial transactions, and to guard against any
infraction of the strict rules established for their govern-
ment. Even their servants were made to act as spies
upon their conduct, under an oath sealed with their own
blood, to reveal every thing that came under their obser-
vation to the Ottoma, or Japanese Governor of the Dutch,
who in turn was obliged to communicate every event
worthy of notice to the Governor of the city, by whom it
was again conveyed to the Emperor himself, in the dis-
tant capital of Yedo.
Under these circumstances, it can scarcely excite sur-
prise that the Dutch have not made greater progress
toward Christianizing and modernizing this strange and
peculiar people, possessing, as they unquestionably do,
qualities which, according to our definition of right and
wrong, seem totally incompatible with each other. It
certainly seems difficult for us to realize that the most


RELATIONS OF THE SEX ES. 117
scrupulous regard for truth and upright dealing, the most
faithful personal attachment, and the most chivalric sense
of honor, should exist in the same character with a total
disregard of the principles of temperance, chastity, and
veneration for the rules of religion and society, as estab-
lished among Christians. Yet there are instances, and
unmistakeable evidences of these contradictory peculiari-
ties among the Japanese, in a more extended and, I may
say, universal sense, than among any other people in
existence. The same man who would, without hesitation,
sacrifice every worldly possession, and devote himself to
the ascetic life of a hermit, in token of his overwhelming
grief at the loss of a friend, pays not the slightest respect
to the sanctity of the marriage vow, and does not hesitate
to keep any number of concubines of which his means
will permit, under the same roof with his lawful wife. In
their conjugal relations, however, the men are said to be
kind and indulgent, and it does not appear that any ex-
ception is taken by the wife to the number of handmaidens
which her wedded lord may think proper to add to their
household. The wives are universally chaste, I believe,
though whether from principle, or lack of temptation, I
am not prepared to say, but certainly the absence of eye-
brows, and the blackened and decayed teeth, which inva-
riably mark the wife, must be the reverse of attractive,
and I pity the taste, as well as the fate, of the gay de-
ceiver who might be inclined to lure her from the path
of duty–adultery, in Japan, being always punished by
the death of both parties. The relation between parent
and child appears to be of the most tender and trusting
character — no coercive measures are ever used, and my
own experience perfectly agrees with that of Koempfer
and other writers, who describe the children as being


118 F E M A LE EDU CATION IN J A PAN.
bound to their parents by the strongest ties of love and
reverence. Great attention is paid to the early education
of boys in the elementary branches, and it would be diffi-
cult to find one ten years of age, in any of the cities or
villages, who could not read and write; but there is not
so much importance attached to the early training of the
girls, it being generally considered unnecessary for them
to be sent to school before they are old enough to enter
one of the Tea Houses, where they are received at the
age of eight years, and taught not only the essentials,
but various accomplishments, such as music, dancing,
embroidery, etc. Nothing, in short, is left undone to
render them attractive and agreeable as companions,
upon the presumption that they are to become the wives
and mothers of the succeeding generation, to a great ex-
tent, and to make them remunerative stock, they are
condemned, at the age of twelve or fourteen, to the life
of a courtezan, until their hands are sought in wedlock;
the fact of the earliest years of their maturity being de-
voted to prostitution, forming no obstacle to their con-
tracting the most auspicious matrimonial alliances.
The restrictions imposed upon the Dutch residents at
Nagasaki were nothing more nor less than the legitimate
and natural fruits of their own duplicity and dishonorable
machinations, to deceive a guileless and unwary people,
who had, nevertheless, the courage and the sagacity to
detect and to punish with what seems to us as barbarous
cruelty, the crimes and derelictions of those for whose
presence in their country they were only indebted to the
rich rewards they hoped to reap from their self-imposed
exile and expatriation. The Portuguese, who had pre-
ceded them in their efforts to acquire spiritual as well as
temporal dominion over their country, had exasperated


CATH O LIC PROSELY TISM. 119
the Imperial and hereditary authorities of the government
to such a degree, that they apprehended the most serious
disasters, not only to themselves, but to their people,
unless they made determined and effectual resistance to
the bigoted power by which they seemed to be gradually
becoming enslaved. Can it, therefore, be a matter of
surprise, that a people, susceptible of the most gentle and
tender sympathies, having a natural sense of the obliga-
tions of religion of some sort, should eagerly have em-
braced the forms and ceremonies, never unattended by a
certain degree of sincere feeling, of the Catholic religion,
and that they should cheerfully have resigned themselves
to the martyr's fate, when once they had professed the
faith? Is it strange that those among them who never
came within the reach of this powerful and mysterious
influence, should have become alarmed at its probable
effects upon their national and personal interests, or that
having lived to the age of maturity without ever hearing
of the pure and righteous teachings of the great Tutor
of the Christian dispensation, they should have resisted,
with the mighty hand of Imperial power, the encroach-
ments and usurpations of a band of arrogant and pre-
sumptuous representatives of a religious creed, professed,
apparently, solely for worldly aggrandizement? Apart
from the suspicions created in their minds by the assump-
tions of the Portuguese and Spanish Jesuits, the frequent
attempts of the Dutch navigators to infringe the revenue
laws, afford quite sufficient justification of the strict sur-
veillance, and even the offensive examinations, instituted
and exercised over their movements and persons. It is
my firm conviction, after nearly two years of intimate
association and dealing, though in a limited way, with
the Japanese, that they are at this moment the most


120 DUTCH. W. O. R. KSHOPS.
reliable and word-keeping people, as a nation, in the
world. Sagacious and intelligent they certainly are, and
in no ordinary degree; but the tricks and quibbles of
trade, as they exist among ourselves, were comparatively
unknown to them until they were brought into contact
with the European and American civilization of the
present day. In making my little purchases at Nagasaki,
consisting of porcelain and lacquered ware, with sundry
little articles of bijouterie, intended as presents to my
friends at home, I could not fail to perceive the striking
change which was produced in the mode of dealing with
the native merchants, even during the few days we re-
mained among them. At first their prices seemed ex-
tremely low, and they adhered to them with the utmost
pertinacity, but finding in a very short time, that no
matter how small their charges, their new customers in-
variably expected them to make a considerable deduction
before they could be induced to purchase, they very
shrewdly increased their original demands sufficiently to
enable them to “come down handsomely,” without sus-
taining loss, thereby gaining not only their legitimate
profits, but the reputation of liberal dealers.
Immediately abreast of our anchorage, in a small cove
on the western side of the bay, several workshops had
been erected under the superintendence of a Dutch engi-
neer of great practical ability, and I had the curiosity to
visit them one day, for the purpose of ascertaining the
extent of the facilities afforded for repairing steam
machinery. I found several substantial and well-finished
turning-lathes, punches, and cutters, a small trip-hammer,
and various other machines, all in good working order,
with extensive preparations going forward for the erec-
tion of more important works. The principal machinists


J A PAN ES E STATE B.A. R. G. E. 121
were Dutchmen, but there were some fifty Japanese
mechanics of various trades employed in the different
shops, who, I was informed, evinced great aptitude in
learning the mechanical operations. I learned also that
there were one or two princes in disguise among them,
acquiring practical skill as machinists.
Two days after the visit of Commodore Tattnall and
his suite to the Governor of the city, we had the honor
of receiving that functionary and his numerous suite on
board the Powhatan. They came off in grand style, forty-
seven boats of various sizes being required to contain the
party, many of which, however, were employed in towing
the State barge, which was also propelled by sixteen
scullers. This unwieldy specimen of naval architecture,
was a large flat-bottomed boat, with a prow reaching five
feet beyond the gunwale, from which a long swab-like
appendage hung down nearly to the surface of the water.
The entire length of the boat was covered with a roof of
matting, with the exception of a few feet at each end,
and between this roof and the movable deck laid in the
bottom of the boat, there was a spacious platform covered
with soft matting, and screened from the vulgar gaze by
curtains of red and white crape, which hung in graceful
folds down to the gunwales. Two immense streamers of
red and white crape, in alternate stripes of each color, were
displayed from the quarters, being attached at the upper
end to hoops two feet in diameter, to insure their proper
display by permitting the air to pass through their folds.
In addition to these the Imperial ensign, of white, with a
red ball in the centre, was placed in the stern, while the
official rank of the distinguished passengers was indicated
by two long spears with guards, erected near the centre
cf the boat. The hull was about fifty feet in length, and
11


122 PECULIA RITIES OF NATIVE BOATS.
at the widest part, near the stern, twelve or fourteen feet
in breadth; the planking of the sides was extended two
feet beyond the stern, which, according to the universal
custom of the country in boat building, was left open
amidships for greater facility of shipping and unshipping
the rudder. There is a tradition among the foreigners
who have visited Japan in earlier times, originating, I
believe, with the sagacious Koempfer, that this peculiar
construction of the stern, which is remarked in all their
boats, is the result of an order from the government, in-
tended to prevent the inhabitants from venturing far from
the land, and thus encountering the dangers of shipwreck
or of being blown off the coast—death being the punish-
ment awarded to any Japanese who, by accident or de-
sign, might be thrown upon a foreign shore, and after-
ward return to his native country. This law has become
obsolete, however, since the country has been thrown
open to foreign intercourse. The Japanese never paint
their boats, but they are so frequently scrubbed inside
and out, that the greatest neatness of appearance is pre-
served. They still adhere to the ancient model.
While I have been describing the State barge, the
Governor and Vice-governor, with eight or ten of the
officials next in rank, have been making a thorough in-
spection of the noble proportions of the Powhatan and
her equipments, and have been expressing, through the
interpreters, their admiration of the neatness and system
which they have found prevailing throughout her internal
arrangements. They regarded everything with the most
eager curiosity and undisguised astonishment, the battery
especially—the guns being of larger calibre and of a
different form from any they had ever seen before. The
pivot-gun on the forecastle, throwing a shell of eleven


ENTERTAIN IN G. VISITORS. 123
inches diameter, and capable of the most rapid training
from one side of the ship to the other, excited their espe-
cial wonder. Great interest was manifested, also, in the
machinery, it being altogether of a superior finish and
on a much larger scale than anything of the kind they
had ever seen before.
During this tour of inspection preparations had been
made in the Commodore's cabin to entertain the party in
the style of profuse hospitality, for which our chef is
somewhat distinguished; and his guests were by no means
slow in evincing their appreciation of the various deli-
cacies placed before them, of which their benighted
stomachs had hitherto been kept in a most lamentable
state of ignorance. It was, however, a source of no small
concern to the humane and sympathizing medicos, who
were present, to contemplate the probable consequences
of the extraordinary mixtures these novices in the science
of gastronomy put under their tunics, as they were seen
eating fruit-cake with sardines, and drinking champagne
and whiskey-punch alternately, from glasses held in each
hand; but the results, whatever they were, never came
to our knowledge. The party adjourned, with becoming
dignity and decorum, about 2 P.M., and as the barge con-
taining the Governor and his immediate suite got well
clear of the battery, a salute of seventeen guns closed the
ceremonies of the day.
First obtaining the Governor's consent, the crew of the
Powhatan were permitted to go on shore at this place
“on liberty,” the constant employment of the ship on
important service, having rendered it impracticable to
grant them this indulgence since our sailing from the
United States, eight months before. In consequence of
the ignorance of the people of Nagasaki, concerning the


124 SAILORS ON SHORE.
peculiar habits of the genus “man-of-war's man,” and
our positive conviction that the crew of the Powhatan
formed no exception to the general rule, or rather mis-
rule of drunkenness and fighting, which constitute the
chief sources of amusement to a majority of them when
“on liberty,” it was considered prudent to limit the num-
ber on shore to sixty each day, which would secure to
them all a holiday in the course of four days, provided
always that the number relieved from duty came on board
at the expiration of the twenty-four hours for which leave
was granted. In the course of five days all hands were
again mustered at their quarters on board ship, no seri-
ous accident having occurred to any of the number while
under the dominion of the rum-god, who, in this locality,
assumes the sweet-sounding title of saki—nor, what was
of much more consequence, had they inflicted any injury
upon the kind and inoffensive people amongst whom they
had been thrown for the first time. The usual number
of black eyes and bruised heads, resulting from a settle-
ment of petty quarrels that had been accumulating for
the previous eight months, seemed to be the only marked
features of the long-deferred indulgence of Jack's desire
for the delights of the shore; with the melancholy excep-
tion of the death of one of the coal-heavers, who came on
board in a beastly state of intoxication, and laid down on
the berth-deck to sleep off the effects.-He was found in
the same spot at daylight next morning, when all hands
were called to muster, stone-dead—having been too far
gone even to utter a groan, by which his situation might
have been made known to those in his immediate vicinity.
Parties of officers visited the bazaars daily, and inva-
riably returned to the ship at sunset, loaded with boxes
and bundles of every shape and size that could possibly


EXTENSIVE PURCH ASES. 125
find stowage on board, and as the regulations prohibited
their appearance in any part of the ship appropriated to
general use, it soon became matter for wondering conjec-
ture when the packages mysteriously disappeared, what
disposition could possibly have been made of them.
Private store-rooms and state-rooms were filled to reple-
tion, and yet room was made for more by that sort of
ingenious contrivance in the economy of space, which
forms part of the education of seafaring men.
11 *


126 VO YA GE TO SIM ODA.
CHA PTER WI.
Sail for Simoda—Magnificent Scenery—Fusi-yama—A Native Pilot
—Description of the place—Visit from Consul-General Harris—
Attention of the Imperial family to Mr. Harris during his Illness
—Lacquer Ware—Proceed to Yedo with Mr. Harris—Attempt of
Japanese officials to head us off—Commissioners visit the Ship—
The Treaty signed—English Jealousy at the consummation of
this event—Return to Simoda—Public Bathing-houses—Christian
Worship in a heathen temple—Return to the coast of China.
WE passed through Van Diemen's Straits in moderate
weather and with a fair wind, the smoke from the Japan-
ese coal we had taken on board at Nagasaki, curling up
in dense black clouds between the fore and main-topsails,
and sending a shudder of disgust and wrath through the
nervous system of the Executive officer. On either side,
volcanic islands raised their peaked cones to the height
of several hundred feet above our deck, as we steamed
lustily against the opposing current, and through strong
overfalling tide-rips, along the beautiful coast of Kiu-siu,
Volcano Island on the right, Cape Tschitschagoff on the
left, and the island of Tanegasima to the eastward, all
covered with shrubbery and verdure, reaching down to
the wave-worn surface of their bases. The novelties we
had met at every turn since our first discovery of the land
near Nagasaki, had created an unusual interest in the
navigation of the ship, so that even the “Idlers" as the
“civil officers” of a man-of-war are technically, but not
opprobriously styled, were constantly on deck during the
day and great part of the night, gazing at the picturesque
-


A DISTA NT L.A. N. D.M.A. R. K. 127
coast, only some five or six miles distant at several points,
and seeming in momentary expectation of witnessing
some extraordinary phenomenon of Nature, or a new de-
velopment of her charms in the way of romantic scenery;
and even the crew were not easily restrained from in-
dulging their love of the beautiful in a similar way, to
the neglect of their plodding routine of duties. The sight
of the land was soon lost, however, after passing through
the strait, and we saw nothing but the clear blue waves
around us, and the bright sun-lit clouds floating serenely
above us, all nature seeming to smile in approbation of
our efforts to cultivate friendly intercourse with the in-
habitants of the highly-favored land, with which we had
so recently become acquainted. After a passage of two
days and a half, we discovered the range of islands lying
off to the southward and eastward of Cape Idzu, the
most prominent object being the beautiful mountain of
Fusi-yami, which rises 12,400 feet above the ocean,
and is visible at the distance of a hundred miles from
the coast; the weather continued remarkably clear and
pleasant, and steaming boldly and rapidly toward this
magnificent land-mark, which lay in the direction of our
port, we entered the harbor of Simoda in the afternoon
of the 25th of July, and anchored near the Mississippi.
As we approached the anchorage, a large boat was seen
coming toward us with the American flag at her stern,
and six stalwart Japanese sculling away as if sent in
hot haste by the Tycoon himself, to warn us off; the
wheels stopped for a moment, and the boat was whirled
alongside in the most seamanlike manner—a native
jumped from her on to the side-ladder, a rope was thrown
to the boat's crew, who made it fast to the stern, and
again the plunge of the ponderous wheels was heard as


128 H A R BOR OF SIM ODA.
we steamed directly into the bay, there being no obstacle
in our path except a sunken rock on the right, as indicated
by a flag at the end of an iron rod stuck upon it. Our
prompt and active visitor was soon ascertained to be a
pilot, sent by our Consul-General, Townsend Harris, Esq.,
to point out to us the best anchoring ground—an attention
by no means unwelcome, though certainly unnecessary,
all the dangers of the harbor being clearly visible. As
the ship swung slowly around, with her head pointing
toward the entrance of the snug little bay, into which we
seemed to have glided so suddenly, that it was difficult to
realize our exact whereabouts, I looked to the right, or
on the starboard beam, and discovered for the first time
the village of Simoda, lying behind a substantial sea wall,
on a narrow level space between two steep hills, whose
summits were crowned with stunted pines. On the bow,
Centre Island rose like a huge bouquet planted in the
water, so completely was it covered with dark green
shrubbery, and many-hued flowers—while on the port
bow, “Wandalia Bluff” frowned grim defiance at old
ocean's eternal surgings, and formed one bank of a sweet
little streamlet, which emptied its pure mountain water
into the bay from behind a low rocky point, which rose
higher and higher, toward the village of Kaki-saki,
situated at the base of a hill directly astern of the ship.
Some two hundred yards from the starboard quarter, a
small barren rock close to the sandy beach, cast a shade
of sterility over the otherwise richly verdant landscape.
The hills in the background had rather a rugged and
wild appearance; their sides being too precipitous gene-
rally to admit of the growth of trees, but their summits
were crowned with heavy timber, making due allowance
for the distant view we had of it.


VIS IT FROM M R. H. A. R. R.I.S. 129
The customary offer of a boat to convey the Consul-
General on board having been made, we soon had the
pleasure of welcoming Mr. Harris, who evinced more than
equal satisfaction at the arrival of the flag-ship, having
important business to transact with the Japanese Govern-
ment, which the presence of the Commander-in-Chief of
the squadron would greatly facilitate. More than a year
had elapsed since the last visit of a man-of-war of any
nation to this secluded spot, during which time our Consul-
General had been compelled to incur numerous obligations
at the hands of the authorities of the country, even in a
pecuniary way, and he was naturally anxious to have the
opportunity of liquidating them. He had recently re-
turned from a protracted sojourn in the capital of Yedo,
during which he had been attacked with serious illness,
and had received the most humane and delicate attentions
from the imperial family; the Empress herself preparing
and sending to him daily such tempting delicacies as
would be likely to gratify the capricious taste of an
invalid, and which only a feminine hand has the skill to
compound.
Anxiety to have a look at the various ingenious and
beautiful works of art, of which we received glowing
accounts from the officers of the Mississippi, seemed to
pervade the whole ship; and, as it was Saturday after-
noon, no delay on the score of ceremony was permitted
to interfere with the gratification of that desire, respect
for the coming Sabbath interposing to prevent many of
us from making purchases on that day. Accordingly,
two large boats were soon observed pulling toward the
landing at Simoda, containing large deputations from
each of the officer's messes, and I found myself among the
number of impatient novelty-seekers. Passing Centre
- I


130 DESCRIPTION OF SIM.O.D.A.
Island on the left, and the sea-wall referred to on the
right, we entered the mouth of the creek running through
the valley above, and past the town, and landed under
the shade of large trees, at the foot of a flight of stone
steps, ten or twelve feet in height, where our attention
was first attracted by a small wooden building appro-
priated to the custom-house officer, who keeps constant
watch over the proceedings of the free-and-easy strangers
so busily coming and going past his domicile. But little
notice is taken of this worthy official as we hurry on to
the Bazaar, crossing in our way a small stone bridge
placed over a little brook emptying into the creek or
river, and encountering the unremitting gaze of hundreds
of men, women, and children, all of whom stared at us
with as much curiosity as if they had never seen a for-
eigner before. The streets were narrow and unpaved,
and the houses far inferior to those of Nagasaki, being all
of wood, and roughly constructed. Near the centre of
the town we found the Bazaar, situated within an enclo-
sure of about one hundred feet square, with a shed ex-
tending inward fifteen or twenty feet from the outer wall,
beneath which there was a brilliant display of lacquered
ware, porcelain, basket-work, bronzes, etc., etc. On one
side there was a small room appropriated to the use of
the government officials, and as we made our selections
from among the many really exquisite things we saw
spread in tempting profusion around us, they were sent
to this officer with the name of the purchaser and the
price marked upon them—the result of this arrangement
being a great state of excitement when a general distri-
bution came to be made at sunset, and each person's
silver dollars weighed in the scale with a corresponding
weight of silver itzebus (value about 33} cents), to deter-


LACQUE RED WAR. E. 131
mine the amount due. Time was precious, and every
one was anxious to get possession of his boxes, and have
them speedily conveyed to the landing, where the boats
were in waiting at sunset, as usual, to transport both the
purchasers and their treasures to the ship. There was
much more difficulty in conjuring up excuses for our
extravagance in buying the articles found at Simoda than
at Nagasaki; for in the former there had been no Dutch-
man to instruct the native mechanics with regard to the
shape and style of European furniture, such as centre and
work-tables, waiters, and a variety of smaller articles of
utility, and yet the superior excellence of the workman-
ship on almost every thing we saw, made it exceedingly
difficult to resist the temptation to purchase what was
acknowledged to be valuable on that account alone.
Indeed, the effort was not made by a majority of the
party, and sunset witnessed another cargo of boxes coming
alongside, to be stowed away in unimaginable recesses.
A neatly made box was furnished for the transportation
and safe keeping of every separate article, no matter how
small or insignificant in value.
Upon returning on board, I learned that on the follow-
ing Monday morning the ship was to proceed up Yedo
Bay to Kanagawa, with Mr. Harris on board, for the
purpose of meeting the Japanese Commissioners, who were
expected to come down from the capital, and sign the
treaty which had been negotiated during his recent visit
to Yedo. During Sunday I remained on board in the
quiet enjoyment of Mr. Harris's entertaining accounts of
the country and the people, in whose midst he had been
residing during the preceding two years, as the principal
of the only two foreign residents on the Island of Niphon,


132 PASS A G E TO YE DO.
the other being Mr. Hueskin, his Clerk and Dutch Inter-
preter. -
On the morning of the 27th of July, at daylight, we
got under way, leaving the Mississippi and the Russian
frigate “Askold,” in which Count Poutiatine had arrived
the day previous, at anchor in Simoda harbor, and having
on board the Consul-General and his interpreter—with
the Vice-Governor of the place and suite. After round-
ing Cape Diamond, which is a low point projecting con-
siderably beyond the line of coast immediately to the
eastward of Wandalia Bluff, we left the volcanic and ever-
burning island of Ohosima on the right, and steamed
directly toward Cape Sagami, between which and Cape
Sirofama, the Bay of Yedo finds its outlet. Passing
through the narrow strait of Uraga, just within these
two bold projections, the splendid sheet of water lay
smooth and bright before us, with numerous white-sailed
boats in the distance, and, on either side, the green and
well-cultivated hills rising in ever-varying forms of
picturesque beauty, giving us a succession of panoramic
views as we passed rapidly within two miles of the inner
shore. Several neat-looking villages, with thatched-
roofed houses, were observed on this shore, and as we
passed the considerable town of Uraga, some thirty miles
below Yedo, two large boats sculled by ten or twelve men,
made desperate efforts to head us off—the two-sworded
officials they conveyed using frantic gestures to indicate
their desire that we should proceed no further. But as
soon as they caught a glimpse of our passengers, they
evidently came to the conclusion that we had got the
start of them in more ways than one, and left us to go on
our way rejoicing, while they gazed in silent wonder at
the speed with which we did so. As we passed quite near


134 T H E J A PAN ESE COMMISSION E R S.
Immediately after our arrival a messenger was de-
spatched to Yedo by Mr. Harris, to inform the Emperor
of our near approach to his mysterious capital, and to
request that the Commissioners, with whom he had nego-
tiated his Treaty, might be commanded to meet him for
the purpose of affixing to the document their official signa-
tures. A reply to this message was scarcely expected in
less than three days, but Mr. Harris had underrated the
influence of his own personal popularity, as an adjunct to
his diplomatic acumen; for previous to his retiring for the
night, he had the unexpected satisfaction of learning that
a small Japanese steamer was approaching the anchorage
from Yedo, whose only object in coming, as was justly
surmised, was to bring the Commissioners—who were
received on board the Powhatan, attended by a large
suite, on the following morning. The marine guard, with
all the officers of the ship in full uniform, made quite a
brilliant display, while our guns gave nineteen distinct
announcements of the reception to the Tycoon in his
palace, at the distance of sixteen miles. As the princes
left their boat to come on board, the crew were all ob-
served to drop upon their knees in the most convenient
spot they could find, and as those august personages sub-
sequently walked around the ship, inspecting everything
with the intense curiosity and inquisitiveness which forms
one of their most striking national traits, all the officials
who had accompanied them bent their heads in the most
reverential manner, and drew in their breath with the
peculiar hissing sound which only a Japanese can achieve,
while the lower attendants knelt upon the deck, bowing
until their foreheads touched the planks. I ascertained
the names and titles of the princes to be Ino-oo-ye, Prince
if Siano, and Iwasay, Prince of Hego, who were both


sIGNING of THE TREATY WITH JAPAN. 135
men of fine appearance; and I learned from Mr. Harris
that the former was a man of highly cultivated mind and
liberal views, according to Japanese estimation.
After making a thorough examination of the general
condition and appointments of the ship, the princes and
a large number of their attendant officials were invited
into the Commodore's cabin to partake of a handsome
collation which had been prepared for them. They
seemed highly gratified by the attention, and gave unmis-
takeable evidence of their enjoyment of the good things
placed before them, using their knives and forks quite as
dexterously as if they had been accustomed to something
else besides chop-sticks. When this repast was concluded,
the Consul-General and the Commodore had a short
private conference with the princes, relative to the main
object of their visit, during which it was arranged that
they should return to their own vessel for a few hours'
consultation upon some points involved in the Treaty,
upon the settlement of which they would again come on
board with a copy prepared for signatures. Accordingly,
they took their departure at meridian, with the same
forms of etiquette which attended their reception, and at
the expiration of four hours they returned on board with
a fair copy, to which the official signatures and seals
of the “high contracting parties” were soon affixed—con-
cluding thus unceremoniously and peaceably, one of the
most remarkable State papers now in the diplomatic
archives of the country.
The princes returned immediately afterward to their
pretty little steamer, and as our two largest and most
comfortable boats were employed to convey them along-
side, they seemed to enjoy the contrast which they pre-
sented to the little dinghy in which they had come. As


136 D EP A R T U R E OF THE PRINCES.
they left the Powhatan, all the officers, the guard of
marines, and the band were present on the quarter-deck
in full uniform, to witness their departure, the band play-
ing martial music as they went over the side; meanwhile,
the American and Japanese flags had been run up to the
maintopgallant mast-head, and as the boat containing the
princes got beyond the concussion of the guns, a salute
of twenty-one guns was fired in honor of the occasion, the
two national flags being displayed side by side at the first
explosion, and hauled down at the last—the men in the
boats lying on their oars during the interval, and the high
functionaries displaying as much gratification as their
dignity would permit. The ceremonies being thus con-
cluded, they hastened on board their own steamer, and
the “Candimar”—the name of their tiny craft—was soon
under steam and sail, gliding swiftly over the smooth
waters of the glorious bay, toward the great invisible
capital—Yedo.
When the news of this event reached Europe, the
London journals attributed success in procuring the sign-
ing of this treaty, for which our Consul-General had been
struggling so long against the exclusive policy, and deep-
rooted prejudices of the Japanese people, entirely to the
cowardly apprehensions of the princes composing the
Council of State, lest their refusal to comply with the
repeated solicitations of Mr. Harris on the subject, should
draw down upon them the vengeance of the European
and American governments, as exhibited by England and
France in the recent operations at the Taku forts and
Tientsin; but it only requires a very small addition to
the amount of information usually possessed by the sapient
foreign correspondents of newspapers generally, relative
to such matters, to expose the arrogant fallacy of the


*
COMMENTS ON THE TREATY. 137
statement. If Commodore Tattnall was in such haste to
avail himself of the distant “roar of the British lion” to
frighten the innocent and ignorant exclusives into terms,
why should he have remained twelve days at anchor in
the harbor of Nagasaki while on his way to Simoda,
where the only medium through whom he could hold any
communication with the Japanese government resided—
and if “Mr. Harris lost not a moment in himself carry-
ing the news to Yedo,” why did he not embark in the
Mississippi, (this vessel having been present at the demo-
lition of the Taku forts,) on the day of her arrival'at
Simoda, and proceed thither at once, instead of waiting a
week longer for the Powhatan, by which time it may
reasonably be supposed that scarcely the faintest echo of
the “Lion's roar" remained in the terror-stricken islands?
In which of the harbors of Japan had the ensign of an
English man-of-war been displayed previous to the Pow-
hatan's arrival at Simoda, and subsequent to the destruc-
tion of the Taku forts? or when has it been established
as an axiom that because one nation thinks proper to
trample upon the right of every people under the sun
to be the judges of their own best policy, even those who
have hitherto manifested friendly regard for them, must
necessarily become their enemies, or resort to the more
dastardly expedient of following in the train of the suc-
cessful bully, with the hope of sharing in the spoils of his
audacity? I can assert, without fear of successful con-
tradiction, that neither Commodore Tattnall, nor Consul-
General Harris, ever entertained the idea for one instant,
of taking advantage of any suppositious influence that
might have grown out of the events in question, to for-
ward the plans so long and so ardently cherished by the
latter; and, moreover, that if the existence of the British
12 *


138 BRITISH INFLUENCE IN THE EAST.
nation had been totally unknown to the Japanese people,
there would, in my humble opinion, have been much less
difficulty in inducing them to enter into friendly relations
with the United States, as they were by no means igno-
rant of the history of India, and the evils which China
was at that moment enduring because she had not strength
to resist. -
The truth, though, must be patent to every foreigner
who visits the Eastern world, that the commerce of the
United States has grown up almost entirely under the
protection of English guns kept afloat by English capital,
and that the vast commercial advantages accruing to this
country through her trade with India and China, never
would have been developed, in all human probabilility, by
any other policy than precisely that which has been pur-
sued by England, either under the direction of the East
India Company or the British Government, harsh and
oppressive as it has been. But the conviction of these
rather humiliating facts, to the national pride of Ameri-
cans, cannot induce them to acquiesce in the arrogant
assumption of credit for every advance that is made by
our country in the march of commercial enterprise and
Christian civilization; and it is undeniable, that the
policy pursued by our government toward Japan, at least,
has proved eminently successful, giving us the vantage-
ground in diplomatic, commercial, and social intercourse
with her intelligent and high-spirited people. However,
as I am neither a diplomatist nor a Japanese, I will leave
the further discussion of this knotty question to the subtle
profession, and proceed to get the Powhatan under way
to return to Simoda, for the purpose of conveying Mr.
Harris back to his quiet temple, wherein he had attracted
more attention from the natives during the past two years,


RETU R N TO SIM ODA. 139
than ever did the Buddhist idol it formerly contained.
I believe that I have previously omitted to mention that
Mr. Harris had converted one of the native temples into
a very commodious and remantic-looking residence,
making the shrine of the divinity serve as his nightly
couch. Whether he was ever visited in dreams by the
deity whom he had so unceremoniously ousted, we were
not informed; but I presume his slumbers were undis-
turbed, as he evinced no disposition to seek other quarters.
We anchored in Simoda harbor again, about 2 P. M.,
on the 30th day of July, having made the run of seventy
miles from Kanagawa in eight hours. On the day suc-
ceeding our return, one of the marines belonging to the
Mississippi died, and was buried on shore, in a cemetery
set apart for foreigners at the request of our Consul-
General, near Kaki-saki. The Japanese exhibited the
greatest interest in the solemn funeral rites, it being the
first occasion of the kind that had ever come under their
observation.
In the course of one of our afternoon walks through
the streets of Simoda during this visit, my attention was
directed by a companion to one of the public bath-houses
peculiar to the country; and, stopping to look in for a
few moments at one of the windows, my nerves were ter- s
ribly shocked to see the perfect unconcern with which
men, women, and children, of all ages, were mingled to-
gether in the Adam and Eve style—minus the fig-leaves
—and splashing away in the warm water poured over
their heads from small pails in each others' hands, with
an energy and a disregard of the lookers-on which could
not have been surpassed, in nonchalance, by our first
parents, before they became aware of the propriety of
donning their original slender apparel. There were about


140 J A PAN ESE BATHING - HOUSES.
a dozen persons in the room, most of whom were females
— some standing and others sitting on the bare stone
floor, which descended from all sides toward the centre,
where there was a small gutter to lead off the wastewater.
The room was not more than fifteen feet square, and there
were large wooden troughs on two sides, containing the
warm water supplied by a large boiler in the rear of
the building. Among the bathers were discerned, by
the keen eye for the beauties of nature which usually
belongs to nautical men, several finely-formed and really
handsome young women, from whom some show of femi-
nine modesty might reasonably have been expected, but
they appeared to be as utterly unconscious of any thought
of impropriety in this indecent exposure of their persons,
as the infants who were being washed beside them by
their nude and tender mothers. Strange people! thought
I, and not so ugly either as some I have seen in my
travels; but such a shock to all my preconceived ideas
on the subject of female delicacy, was not easily overcome;
and I walked away from this extraordinary scene, a wiser,
but a much disgusted man.
On the 2d of August, the Sabbath was celebrated by
the performance of Divine service in the heathen temple
occupied by Mr. Harris as a residence, being the first
occasion on which such a privilege had been permitted to
Christians since they were expelled from Japan 225 years
before. The attendance of officers and men from the two
American men-of-war lying in the harbor, was as large
as the extraordinary event justly demanded, and their
professional duties would permit. The chaplain of the
Powhatan, Rev. Henry Wood, read the Episcopal Church
service, and preached a highly appropriate and eloquent
sermon, the completeness and solemnity of the ser-


T E M P L E S N E A R SIMO D.A. 141
vice being much enhanced by an admirable impromptu
choir, organized for the occasion among the junior officers
of the two vessels. The natives were evidently much
astonished, and greatly interested in the performance of
our religious rites, gazing in silent wonder through every
aperture affording a view, and not ceasing to stare at the
members of the congregation as long as they remained in
sight, regarding them apparently as worshippers of “the
unknown God,” the reality of whose existence, we may
trust, the recent events will soon cause to dawn on their
own benighted minds. º
There are several handsome Buddhist temples within
the environs of Simoda, but the great similarity in exter-
nal appearance, between them and those which I had
visited at Nagasaki, induced the belief that I should
derive but little amusement, and no additional informa-
tion, from an inspection of their interior arrangements.
My nautical sympathies, however, caused me to regard
one of the Sintoo temples with more than ordinary inte-
rest; accordingly, an hour was devoted to roaming through
the spacious halls, and viewing the adjoining shrines,
wherein were placed representations of the kamis, or
human-gods, whose favor was to be propitiated, models
of native vessels, and a variety of votive offerings to the
imaginary deities, most of whom were supposed to have
control over the destinies of those “who go down to the
sea in ships," seeming, in fact, to exercise the peculiar
functions ascribed by the Grecian mythologists to Nep-
tune. -
On the morning of the 5th of August we bade adieu to
Simoda, presuming that our immediate destination was
Shanghai, where all were extremely anxious to go at that


142 IDE PARTURE FOR CH IN A.
time, with the confident hope of receiving letters from
home, a pleasure which had now been denied to us nearly
five months; but it was soon ascertained, after getting
fairly out to sea, that the Commodore had given direc-
tions to the Consul at Shanghai to forward all letters for
the flag-ship to Nagasaki, by the Minnesota, which vessel
it was expected would bring the Hon. Mr. Reed to that
place early in August. The second night out from
Simoda found us near the eastern entrance of Van Die-
man's Strait, through which we had passed on our
northern voyage in such delightful weather, but from
whence we had now to turn the good ship's head for
a-while, lest the sharp gale that was blowing, and the
short chopping sea that was tumbling her about in a
manner hitherto unknown to those on board, should bring
her into unsafe proximity with some of the islands or
rocks thereabouts. The gale, our first during the cruise
up to this time, continued for three days, and turned
things topsy-turvy generally on board the Powhatan,
greatly prolonging her passage to Simoda; but the inex-
pressible satisfaction of seeing the noble form of the Min-
nesota glide gracefully round the island of Pappenberg
within a few hours after our anchoring off the town of
Nagasaki, made us oblivious of all the sea-sick reminis-
cences of the passage, and sent our thoughts back to the
peaceful homes where dwelt our hearts' best treasures.
After lying quietly at rest for four days, and digesting
thoroughly all the good news received from our friends
on the other side of the globe, our anchor was again
a-weigh, and the busy old craft ploughing the clear green
waters toward the coast of China, whither we now went
with great reluctance; the object which had a few days


C HOL ERA. A.T. S.H.A. N. G. H. A.I. 143
previously reconciled us to leaving Japan at an earlier
period than we had anticipated, having been accom-
plished by the opportune arrival of the “Minnesota,”
while the news she had brought of the prevalence of the
cholera at Shanghai, threw a considerable damper upon
the pleasant anticipations with which a return to that
place had been originally contemplated.


144 MOUTH OF THE WOOSUNG RIVE R.
C H A PTER VII.
Arrival at Woosung—At Shanghai–More sufferings from Chinese
pilots—Chow-chow water—Collision with a French ship—Cholera
and deaths on board–Bearer of despatches sent with Japanese
Treaty—Visit to the Taou-tai–Chinese collation—Music—Visit
of the Taou-tai to the ship—Departure for Woosung—For Naga-
saki–Arrival at Nagasaki—The Minnesota's arrival there with
Minister Reed–Donker Curtius, Dutch Minister—Pic-nic to Mr.
• Reed–Trip to the interior—Japanese funeral—Beautiful scenery
—Japanese honesty—Long stay at Nagasaki—Death of the Ty-
coon—Temples—Tea-houses—Arrival of Baron Gros—Russian
frigate--Return to Shanghai, or Woosung.
FIFTY hours' steaming through a smooth sea in clear
weather brought us to the old anchorage near Woosung,
where we remained from the 18th to the 21st of August,
awaiting the rising of the spring tide to enable the ship
to cross the bar about a mile beyond, and ascend the
river to Shanghai, her great draft of water rendering the
passage over this bar, at ordinary tides, exceedingly diffi-
cult, not to say impracticable. Arriving off the city in
charge of a Chinese pilot, we found the narrow river
quite crowded with vessels, among which were seen seve-
ral large and beautiful American clippers, and the only
clear space remaining for our huge steamer was immedi-
ately opposite the point where the Whangpu river dis-
embogues its muddy waters into the turbid Woosung, as
it forms a considerable elbow just below the European
part of the city. A perfect whirlpool is created by these
interruptions to the ordinary course of the rapid tides,


“CHow-CHow'' wa TER. 145
which here reach the velocity of five miles per hour at
certain phases of the moon, and any vessel anchoring
within the circuit of this ever-eddying and bubbling
confluence, is said, in the expressive dialect of the coun-
try, to be “in the chow-chow water,” that is, the eating
water; and if it does not merit its name from any masti-
cating process which it brings to bear upon the vessels
that are so unfortunate as to anchor within it, yet the
certainty of disaster in the shape of dragging into colli-
sion with other vessels in the vicinity, quite makes up
for the absence of that power in the water itself. In this
most dreaded and troublous spot, immediately over the
“fifteen fathom hole,” the stupid old Chinese pilot, either
through “malice prepense,” or the most culpable ignor-
ance, insisted upon dropping both the anchors, but even
before the steam was blown off from the boilers, they
were discovered to be but sportive toys in the mighty
grasp of the whirling wave beneath, the ship drifting
rapidly toward the vessels anchored below, in the smooth
waters of the regular tide. Steam being up, the wheels
were kept in motion with just sufficient force to enable
her to keep her position, while the anchors were being
weighed, and a terrible heave it was to get them up, for
they both came together, the stocks lying side by side,
and several fathoms of the chains wrapped around the
anchors in such an intricate manner that we came to the
conclusion the “Gordian knot" itself was but a child's
puzzle in comparison with the horrible tangle we were
expected to unravel. To make the matter worse, and as
if all the river gods of the Chinese had conspired to pun-
ish us for our temerity in rushing so unceremoniously
into their dominions, we had no sooner succeeded in
raising the two heavy anchors with the means ordinarily
13 K


146 coll Is Ion w1TH A FR EN CH v Ess E.L.
applied in lifting one, than a large French vessel, in en-
deavoring to pass the ship, was driven by the force of this
“chow-chow water"—broadside on—directly across our
bows, the mainmast of the Frenchman coming in contact
with our jib-boom, and breaking it off with a terrible crash.
It now became necessary to increase the power with
which the wheels were revolving, in order to sustain the
additional pressure of the tide against the broadside of the
French vessel, and the resistance offered caused the ship
to careen over so much that there appeared to be some
danger of her being tripped up between the two contend-
ing forces, and swallowed entirely by the angry waves
rushing madly and wildly around her. Both vessels were
forced to remain in this position until the tide turned,
some six hours afterwards, and then the unfortunate
Frenchman was compelled to slip the anchor he had
thoughtlessly dropped when he found the collision inevi-
table; and as this was done the vessel swung alongside
of the Powhatan, doing some slight damage to her wheel-
house, but she was immediately forced away by the efforts
of our crew — to drift down with the tide to a favorable
anchorage. Meanwhile, the Powhatan dropped down also
with the stream, and was soon re-moored with the two
sheet anchors. Four days of incessant labor were re-
quired to unravel the knotty entanglements of the cables
around the bower anchors, and in the midst of this most
harassing duty the cholera made its appearance among
the crew, and carried off three valuable men within sixty
hours. The labor would cease for a brief space while
“all hands were called to bury the dead,” and as soon as
this solemn duty was concluded, the imperative and
oppressive task would be resumed, every heart moment-
arily impressed with regret at the loss of a departed ship-


VISIT TO THE TAO U - TAI. 147
mate, and each mind filled with the anxious, though un-
spoken thought, “Whose turn will come next?”
The object of this visit to Shanghai, was to enable the
Commodore to send a bearer of despatches to the United
States, to convey to the State Department a copy of the
important Treaty which had recently been concluded with
the Japanese government; upon which duty Commodore
Tattnall employed his secretary, Paulding Tattnall. This
Treaty was ratified by the last session of Congress; and
it was to exchange its ratification at Washington, in con-
formity with one of its stipulations, that the Japanese
Embassy came to the United States; Commodore Tattnall
having voluntarily, and upon his own responsibility, as
Commander-in-Chief of the naval forces in China and
•Japan, placed at their disposal, through Mr. Harris, one of
the vessels under his command, to convey them to Panama
or to Washington, as they might prefer.
A few days after our arrival at Shanghai, the Commo-
dore expressed to the Taow-tai, or Governor of the city,
through Mr. Glover, the acting consul, his desire to pay
him an official visit; and all the preliminaries in the way
of sedan-chairs, bearers, etc., having been arranged, we
assembled at the Consulate at the appointed time, pre-
pared to make this novel and interesting call. The Com-
modore had been compelled by indisposition to deny him-
self the pleasure; and the party consisted of Captain Pear-
son of the Powhatan, attended by five officers of the ship
(of whom I was one), Mr. Glover, the acting consul, and
his interpreter. The day was excessively warm, and we
were buttoned up to the chin in all the “fuss and
feathers” of full uniform; so that I must confess to some-
thing of a shudder when I was requested to take my seat
in the highly decorated chair provided for my convey


148 CH IN ESE CHAIR - B E A RER.S.
ance, especially when I was informed that at least three
miles of the filthy lanes peculiar to the native city were
to be traversed before reaching the Yamun, where the
Governor resided. However, we had gone too far to
retreat, and curiosity soon overcame all obstacles, real
and imaginary, making willing victims even of those who
had entertained the greatest aversion to the undertaking.
Placing ourselves in the chairs in the order of our re-
spective military rank, the party sallied forth from the
Consulate at the appointed hour, each one borne by four
sturdy Chinamen trained to this vocation with quite as
much care and attention, as is generally bestowed on
carriage-horses in our own country. They were all
arrayed in blue frocks bound with red, and immense blue
trousers, while their heads were protected from the blaz-
ing sun by straw hats, resembling an inverted bowl, and
having a large red tassel dangling from the top.
Passing in procession through the city, the populace
crowded the narrow streets in such a manner that it was
not without difficulty we were borne through their com-
pact masses; and the odors with which our suffering nos-
trils were assailed at every turn, made the most speedy
locomotion an object of breathless anxiety. After a
penance so severe in this respect, that had we been Catho-
lics we should have felt assured that many a long score of
sins was blotted out by its endurance, we reached the
abode of the high functionary to whom we were indebted
for the unwelcome tribute to our olfactories; on the
threshold of which, another sense was assailed, and we
were almost deafened by the shrill discord of what seemed
to be a thousand flageolets, combined to destroy the sweet
soul of music; something like the bagpipes, sending
forth a wail occasionally, as if in agony at the murderous


CH IN ESE COLLATION, 149
perpetration. In the midst of these distracting demon-
strations of respect for the distinguished visitors who
were entering the gates, three guns were fired as a salute
to the Captain, being the usual number accorded even to
the highest dignitaries in China. -
The Taow-tai, or Governor, attended by three or four
high Mandarins, received their guests at the entrance,
and conducted them to large arm-chairs ranged on each
side of the hall of reception, while the Governor and his
Vice occupied similar seats at the upper end of this range;
all the Chinese dignitaries clasping their own hands, and
shaking them in the most cordial manner from the mo-
ment we entered until all parties were seated. A small
table was placed beside each chair, on which was a cup
of hot tea, without milk or sugar, and covered over to
prevent the escape of the steam, or vapor arising there-
from. Conversation was immediately commenced through
the Interpreter, consisting of numerous questions and
answers relative to the geography, population, etc., of the
United States—the Mandarins evincing equal curiosity
and ignorance on these school-boy topics.
This interesting prelude being brought to a judiciously
speedy conclusion, we were conducted through a small
court into a commodious dining-hall in the rear, where a
table was spread with all the display of ornament, for
which the Chinese are distinguished, although in this
instance, there was an evident desire to gratify their
peculiar taste at as small an expense as possible; the fur-
niture of the table being by no means of a costly character.
Fancy confectionery intermixed with flowers, filled sundry
small stands distributed over the table, and as soon as we
were seated, the army of grave domestics, who were
awaiting our coming, and received us with affrighted as-
13 *


150 BIRDs’-NEST sou P.
pect, made a sudden movement in solid phalanx toward
a side door through which they vanished, but returned
immediately, bearing small saucers which they placed
before each of the guests, containing the much talked of
“birds'-nest soup"—a very slight taste of this seemed to
be considered by our attendants sufficient for the “barba-
rian” guests, and the little saucers were soon whisked
away, and replaced by others of the same diminutive pro-
portions, in the bottom of which appeared an infinitely
small quantity of something so much resembling fiddle-
strings, that I at once felt sure that I was partaking of
the dish so highly prized by the Chinese—shark's fin;
then came in rapid succession such a variety of nice little
abominations that it would be folly to attempt to describe
them; and, indeed, we found it necessary at the time to
think as little as possible of the nature of the viands
placed before us, lest our failing appetite should refuse to
sanction a polite compliance with the custom which re-
quires that each course should be tasted in its turn. The
Taow-tai seemed to be a jovial character, and to think
that the best way of contributing to the enjoyment of his
guests, was to press upon them a variety of strong drinks,
most of which were entirely foreign to their palates, and
to ply them constantly with champagne. I regarded this
fact as conclusive evidence that he had been informed by
some particular friend of Americans that they were a
nation of tipplers, especially as he seemed to be greatly
astonished at our temperance. Altogether the visit was
extremely interesting, though it could scarcely be called
agreeable in any other respect than as affording an op-
portunity of witnessing the style of living among the
higher classes of Chinese officials.
The dress of the Governor resembled that of two other


MAN DAR IN COSTU M E. 151
high Mandarins who were present on this occasion, and
consisted of a long blue silk robe reaching to the ankles,
having on the breast and back a square foot of black
ground covered with gold embroidery, beautifully de-
signed and executed. The head dress was the usual
Mandarin hat, with a crystal ball (if my memory serves
correctly) in the centre of the crown, from under which
a peacock's feather extended down the back to the length
of a foot, this being the essential ornament and insignia
of high rank, civil and military, among these singular
people, who toil for a life time, and spend thousands of
dollars to acquire the right to wear a peacock's feather,
and a ball of red, blue, yellow, or white glass, on the top
of their heads; and yet strange and childish as this may
appear, the custom is not without a parallel among the
more highly educated and enlightened men of Europe,
who prize a scrap of ribbon, or a silver star from their
ruling powers, as an adequate reward for any amount of
mental and physical labor. After spending an hour at
the table in studying the science of gastronomy as prac-
tised among the Celestials, and indulging, sotto voce, in
humorous remarks on the birds'-nest soup, sharks' fins,
stewed dog, and such like delicacies, which had been in-
troduced for the first time to our palates, the party ad-
journed from the dining-hall to the front entrance, where
we bade adieu to our hospitable entertainers, they shaking
their own hands as before, and we being compelled to
depart without the satisfaction of grasping a single
“flipper"—a serious disappointment to a thorough-bred
Yankee. We returned in the same manner that we had
come, and by dint of some little spurring, administered
to our biped horses in the shape of “Spanish quarters,"
managed to reach the European settlements in much


152 RETU R N TO NAGASA. K.I.
better time than we had made in going to the city, stop-
ping at the hospitable mansion of Heard & Co., to imbibe
a small portion of their excellent brandy by way of de-
stroying the ill effects anticipated from the extraordinary
mélange of which we had just partaken.
By previous appointment, the Governor, with a large
suite, returned this visit on board the Powhatan, two
days subsequently, where they were received with all the
honors usually accorded to officials of high rank. The
party were entertained with a collation in our style, by
the Commodore, and inducted into the mysteries of the
knife and fork exercise, at which they evidently required
considerable drilling, although they managed to dispose
of no small portion of the solids, and a larger, quantity
of the fluids provided. This terminated the visit, and
our intercourse with the Mandarins; but we soon after-
ward learned that the Taow-tai, whose name was Sieh, had
been appointed secretary to the Commissioners to confer
with the foreign Ambassadors, relative to the regulation
of the tariff agreed upon in the treaties concluded at
Tientsin, in the month of June previous.
The prevalence of the cholera at Shanghai during this
period, and the necessity for a short respite from the con-
stant employment of the ship during the preceding ten
months, made it desirable that she should be taken to
some quiet anchorage, where the machinery particularly,
and the ship generally, could be thoroughly overhauled
and cleansed. The harbor of Nagasaki being admirably
adapted to this purpose, the Commodore desired to sail
for that place as soon as the bearer of despatches was
prepared for his overland journey, and in pursuance of
this idea, we left Shanghai on the 6th of September, and
Woosung on the 8th, for our third visit to the beautiful


ARRIVAL OF M R. R. EED IN JAPAN. 153
bay of Nagasaki, which place we reached on the 10th,
and anchored in the same secure and picturesque spot
from whence we had first viewed this interesting city.
The Minnesota returned to Woosung from Nagasaki
during our visit to Shanghai, for the purpose of receiving
on board the Hon. Mr. Reed, and conveying him to Japan,
his diplomatic engagements having prevented his depart-
ure from China at the time of the first visit of the ship
to that country, and the health of the crew rendering it
expedient that she should leave Woosung immediately.
On the 20th of September, all hands on board the Pow-
hatan were rejoiced to see this noble ship make her second
appearance at Nagasaki, with the American minister to
China on board, as indicated by the small ensign flying
from the main truck. The Dutch Commissioner, Donker
Curtius, had been elevated to the rank of Minister Pleni-
potentiary, during our absence from Japan—his govern-
ment appreciating the necessity for investing his position
with the same diplomatic rank which attached to the
representatives of other foreign countries in Japan, and
he received the first salute in honor of his new position
from the battery of the Minnesota, when he called on
board the day after her arrival, to pay his official respects
to Mr. Reed.
A few days subsequently, Mr. Curtius arranged a de-
lightful excursion into the interior, in compliment to our
Minister, and invited the officers of both ships to join the
party. So favorable and rare an opportunity of getting
a peep at the mysterious interior which lay hidden beyond
the beautiful hills surrounding this splendid bay, was not
to be slighted; and there was not, of course, the least
difficulty in finding guests among the officers for the pic-
nic so kindly proffered, although, unfortunately, both Mr.


f54 EXCURSION IN TO THE INTERIOR.
Reed and the Commodore were compelled to decline on
account of indisposition. All the arrangements being
made, at 6 A.M. on the 27th, a party of thirty assembled
at the Desima landing, equipped in walking trim, as it
was understood that at least one half the number would
necessarily be pedestrians, on account of a deficiency of
norimons. I would observe, en passant, that these nori-
mons are constructed and used in a manner similar to
the sedan chair, with the exception that the occupant
sits upon the floor, and the pole by which they are carried
is placed lengthwise across the top, instead of having
shafts at each end. These conveyances being appropriatod
to the elder and more dignified members of the party, the
pedestrians took the lead in the order of march, and we
passed along in gay humor and straggling procession,
through the quiet streets of the city, to the charming
valley in its rear; our appearance exciting the curious
and smiling interest of the people, whom we met in great
numbers, not only in the streets, but throughout the
whole line of road over which we passed. After proceed-
ing a mile or more beyond the limits of the city, along
the roughly paved road between the base of the hill on
the left, and level rice-fields and vegetable gardens on the
right, reaching to the opposite hill-sides, we came to a
little mountain stream, over which a substantial stone
bridge afforded passage to two comfortable country-houses,
built in the shadow of the rocky cliffs beyond. Their
hospitable and genteel occupants received us with a cor-
dial greeting, and insisted on our making a brief halt in
the shade of their spacious verandahs, while partaking
of the brandy and claret so judiciously provided by our
host of the pic-nic party; the short stoppage was particu-
larly approved of by the bearers of the norimons, as it so


JAPAN ESE FUNERAL. 155
happened that they contained the heaviest men of the
party in corporeal, as well as official weight. While here,
I observed a procession consisting of about fifty persons,
headed by two females in white robes, with cowls of the
same material covering their heads, approaching a small
graveyard which we had passed a few moments before;
in the centre of the column a smooth white box, about
three feet square, was borne on the shoulders of four men,
by means of poles passed under its bottom; and learning
from some of our Dutch companions that this was a
Japanese funeral, I recrossed the bridge, and reached the
cemetery just as the box was deposited near the small
excavation which three stout laborers, in Nature's cos-
tume, (relieved by a narrow strip of cotton cloth around
the loins) were making in the hard ground for its recep-
tion. There was an air of nonchalance about the whole
party, which divested the scene of any approach to the
solemnity usual on such occasions, and as soon as the
square yard of coffin, with its flaunting paper ornaments,
had been removed from the shoulders of the “pall
bearers,” there was a general stampede of the mourners,
each following the bent of his own inclination, without
seeming to remember the sad occasion which had called
them together. I walked up to the edge of the hole
which the jolly-looking grave-diggers were making to
receive the oddly-shaped coffin, and found they had
already reached a depth of five feet, and were still dig-
ging away as if they were intent upon ascertaining, at
least, how far Purgatory was from the surface of the
earth, that they might afford their departed friend a
reasonable chance of holding on there, instead of pursuing
the downward course to a warmer region. As may be
presumed, from the form of the coffin, the Japanese dead


156 PICTURES QUE VIEWS.
are buried in a sitting posture—the males with their
hands clasped in the attitude of devotion, and the females
having them apart, with their faces turned as though
looking over the left shoulder; but for what particular
reason they are required to look “over the left," I could
not ascertain. As I stood in this little road-side burial-
ground, I remarked the neatness and simplicity, as well
as the uniform character of the grave-stones erected over
every spot where the remains of the departed had been
laid. A square block of granite was imbedded in the
earth, and upon the upper end was placed a small shaft
of the same material, about three feet high, having sculp-
tured upon it the name, etc., of the deceased. At the
base of this were two small stone vases for the reception
of bouquets of flowers, which are periodically renewed by
surviving friends. Seeing, now, that my pic-nic.com-
panions were about to resume their journey, I hastened
to rejoin them, and mingling again with the gay and
cheerful living, I left “the dead to bury their dead.”
With unflagging interest, and, so far, unwearied limbs,
we pursued our winding course lp the steep and rocky
ascent of the hill, on the northern side of the smiling
valley we had just left, the scenery along the entire route
being beautiful beyond description; a bold and picturesque
mountain-spur stretching occasionally to the centre of
the highly-cultivated valleys, and the graceful undula-
tions of the terraced hill-sides, whose summits were
crowned with the dark-green foliage of the camphor and
other majestic trees, lending a pleasing variety to the
otherwise broken character of the country. An occasional
farm-house, surrounded by domestic animals and indus-
trious peasantry, gave animation to the view; and the
numerous pedestrians we encountered on the road, greeted


BAY of SIMABARRA. 157
us with a never-failing smile, as they gazed in wonder
upon the novel, and, perhaps, unprecedented procession
of foreigners so far inland. At about 9 A.M., we arrived
at the small fishing-village of Aba, situated on the
splendid bay of Simabarra, and distant seven miles from
Nagasaki. Here we were welcomed by the entire popu-
lation, who turned out en masse to witness this extraor-
dinary irruption of “outside barbarians,” who strode as
boldly into their defenceless hamlet as if they were
“lords of the soil.” A snug little house had been pre-
pared for our reception, and we found a substantial break-
fast awaiting us, of which all partook with the sharp
appetite produced by the exercise we had taken, and the
exhilarating atmosphere of the cool September morning.
After the meal was concluded, we indulged in a refresh-
ing lºunge upon the soft matting, and the enjoyment of a
mild manila, during which time four large boats were
prepared for our embarkation, to continue the journey
toward the village of Mogee, also on the bay shore of
Simabarra, and some three miles nearer by land to
Nagasaki. The American flag was displayed at the end
of a pole erected in the stern of two of the boats, and the
Dutch flag designated the two in which our host and
some of his countrymen were conveyed. We got fairly
under way again at eleven o'clock, and the water being
smooth and the weather cool, the aquatic part of the ex-
cursion would have been extremely pleasant under much
less novel and interesting circumſtances, for it really
seemed as if the elements had all combified to make the -
day one of the brightest eras of our eventful cruise.
The seenery along the coast was varied with hills and
... bluffs, and cultivated valleys—the various shades of
green on the terraced hills, which sloped gradually up-
14 ."


158 A R RIVAL AT MO G. E. E.
ward to the height of a thousand feet, presenting the
appearance of cut velvet—the trees, interspersed among
the patches of cultivated ground, serving as sprigs to
ornament the texture. In the midst of this lovely scene,
a rocky promontory, crowned with a luxuriant growth
of beautifully-shaped trees, would here and there raise
... its giant head perpendicularly from the clear, green water,
seeming like grim sentinels, posted to protect the smiling
fields beyond. Soon after leaving Aba, the boats ap-
proached a point of land on the right, immediately abreast
of which, a small rock, about twenty feet square, rose
abruptly from the water, at the distance of fifty or sixty
yards. One of the party discovered a human profile in
the outlines of this rock, which he at once proclaimed to
the others in the same boat, as bearing a strong resem-
blance to Captain N n, of the steam-frigate Missis-
sippi, with whom all were acquainted. The likeness was
exceedingly striking, and continued so until we came
quite up between the rock and the point of land, pre-
senting one of the most extraordinary freaks of nature
ever witnessed by any of us. In corroboration of the
correctness of our judgment in the case, it may be re-
marked that the same peculiarity of outline, observed in
this rock by those in our boat, was simultaneously noticed
by all the others.
Two hours' sculling brought us to the village of Mogee,
which we found to be a place of much greater pretension
than Aba, there being a large and handsome residence
here for the Japanese official of the rank of Burgomaster,
who had the government of the town. After spending
an hour or two lounging through the place, and around
the handsome grounds attached to this residence, we were
all seated at a large table to partake of a sumptuous


J A PAN ES E HON EST Y. 159
repast, at which the usual number of patriotic and senti-
mental toasts were drank with somewhat more than usual
gusto, and, a few impromptu speeches made—keeping up
the convivialities until sunset, when the return across
e hills was commenced with unabated spirit, and ter-
minated at about seven P. M., without a disagreeable
incident to mar the pleasures of the day. Before leaving
this subject, I must not omit to mention, as a remarkable
instance of the scrupulous honesty which prevails among
even the lowest order of Japanese, that one of the party, dur-
ing the excursion, accidentally dropped a valuable note-book
in the boat coming from Aba to Mogee, and the following
day, when he went on shore at Nagasaki, his book, with
all its contents, including a considerable sum of money,
was handed to him by one of the Dutch officers, who said
it had been brought from Mogee by one of the boatmen,
by whom it had been found after the party left.
On the 7th of October, the Minnesota sailed for Shang-
hai, and as she was steaming away from the land the
Mississippi came down from the northern port of Hako-
dadi, and met her off the western end of the island of
Kiu-siu. The captain of the latter vessel having learned
from a Yankee whaler touching at Hakodadi, that there
was a probability of collision between the British and
American forces on the island of San Juan, and being
prevented by the haze of the morning from discerning the
colors of the formidable looking steam-frigate approach-
ing him, determined not to be “caught napping" by this
suspected representative of John Bull's power, accordingly,
he “beat to quarters,” and prepared his ship for action,
closely watching the movements of the suspicious stranger
until the “stars and stripes" became clearly visible at
her peak, when the drums beat the retreat, the warlike


160 DEATH OF THE TY COON.
elements on board the Mississippi quietly subsided into a
more pacific frame, and the ship pursued the “even tenor
of her way” to the anchorage in Nagasaki harbor.
We remained longer at anchor in this interesting plac
than in any other we had visited during the cruise, .
during the period of our stay, every suitable opportunity
was embraced for drilling the crew in their various exer-
cises, and contributing to the efficiency of the ship as a
man-of-war, the active service she had been required to
perform hitherto, having precluded the possibility of de-
voting that degree of attention to a portion of those exer-
cises which was universally desired among the officers.
The routine of duties, however, did not interfere with the
periodical recreation to which custom entitles even the
subjects of naval discipline, nor were our exploring visits
to the Bazaars altogether abandoned, the sunset boats
usually returning to the ship with an undiminished supply
of boxes, the dimensions of which, however, were much
less than those purchased during our first visit to the
place, the condition of the individual exchequer render-
ing necessary a considerable reduction in the value and
number of articles selected.
The official announcement during this visit to Nagasaki,
of the death of the Tycoon, caused a great sensation
among the native population. There was no national
mourning, it appeared, required on the occasion, but all
business operations were ordered to be suspended for
several days. This event had occurred some weeks pre-
viously, we were informed, but in compliance with one
of the peculiar religious customs of the country, it could
not be publicly made known until a certain period of
time had elapsed; the length of which is only a matter
of conjecture with foreigners, and I can, therefore, make


NAGASA. K.I. 161
no positive statement on the subject. I learned from my
Dutch friends, that the deceased Tycoon had only reached
the age of twenty-nine years, and that his successor was
an adopted son of sixteen, whose extreme youth would
necessitate the appointment of a Regent to superintend
affairs of State until he should acquire his majority.
The present population of Nagasaki is about 70,000,
exclusive of several hundred Chinese, whose residence is
restricted to a separate quarter, enclosed by a stone-wall,
but who are permitted to enter the city during the day
for the transaction of business. Indeed, latterly they
have been allowed the same privileges extended to other
foreigners, in pursuance of the more liberal policy recently
adopted by the government. The number of Dutch resi-
dents on the island of Desima, at this time, did not exceed
twenty-five, including the naval officers employed by the
Japanese Government; and during our last visit to Naga-
saki, these had all returned to Holland, the school for
the instruction of Japanese youths in nautical science,
having been removed to Yedo, as it was thought that the
services of the Dutch officers were no longer required.
There are upwards of sixty temples of various sizes in
Nagasaki for religious worship, and to accommodate the
votaries of the Cytherean Goddess, seven hundred and
fifty tea-houses, which cluster on the hill-sides immedi-
ately around the city—the most commanding and pic-
turesque locations being always selected for these temples
of sensual delights, and from nearly all of them may be
seen glorious panoramic views of the bay and the sur-
rounding country. These establishments are a govern-
ment monopoly, and form one of the most remarkable
features of the social and political economy of the country.
There are eighty streets running at right angles
14 + L


162 For EIGN MEN - 0 F-WAR AT NAGASAKI.
through the city, most of them being wide and paved in
the centre with flag-stones. A canal extends from the
upper end of the town to the bay, the banks of which are
lined with a substantial stone-wall, affording a secure
foundation for the dwellings which frequently overhang
the edge. Bridges of wood and stone, span this conveni-
ent sheet of water at its intersection with all the principal
streets, and crowds of busy people may be seen passing
over them at all hours of the day. At night the quiet
of a church-yard prevails throughout this populous city,
excepting perhaps the revellings of a few debauchees at
the tea-houses, where they have singing and dancing
almost nightly. These establishments are always under
the management of men, and are kept in the handsomest
buildings in the city, apart from the government officers
and the residences of the highest officials.
On the 16th of October, the harbor of Nagasaki pre-
sented a novel scene to the eyes of the inhabitants, in the
display of the ensigns of three of the most powerful na-
tions of the earth, from their respective men-of-war. The
French Ambassador, Baron Gros, had been to Yedo for
the purpose of negotiating a treaty with the Imperial
Government, similar to that just concluded with the
American, Russian and English diplomatists; and on
his return toward Shanghai, he touched at this place, on
board the screw corvette “La Place,”having two smaller
vessels in company as an escort. The Russian Frigate
“Askold,” came in on the same day from China, having
encountered a violent typhoon on the passage, in which
several of her spars were sprung, and her hull seriously
damaged, rendering extensive repairs necessary; for
which purpose she had been brought to this unusually
smooth and quiet harbor, in preference to returning to


INTER CHANGE OF CIVILITIES. 163
Shanghai. Thus the Russian, American and French flags
were floating from the peaks of their national vessels in
this harbor, for the first time together; and it was with
no little patriotic pride that I regarded the appearance of
the two noble representatives of the American Navy, and
contrasted them with the other national vessels present.
The usual courtesies and ceremonial visits were ex-
changed between our Commander-in-Chief and the French
Minister and the most cordial social relations were imme-
diately established between the officers of the Russian
frigate and ourselves, commencing by a jovial dinner-
party on board the Powhatan, given in compliment to the
Dutch officers stationed at Nagasaki, to which several of
the Russians were invited. This was soon returned by
the latter in elegant style, notwithstanding the necessary
confusion prevailing on board their ship, as she was being
prepared to “heave down”—in technical language—
during which operation the crew were all to be removed
into one of the temples on shore, where I have no doubt
the style of their devotions caused great astonishment to
the heathen priesthood, Saki being the idol of their
worship—in the performance of which their zeal was
carried to the verge of fanaticism, so that it was with
difficulty they could be prevailed upon to give a due pro-
portion of their attention to the secular matters connected
with their ship. The repairs of the “Askold” were ex-
ecuted entirely by her own mechanical force, under the
direction of her officers, and comprised a new main-mast
and main-yard, twenty-six knees, several beams, and
many minor matters not now recollected; to complete
which, however, she was detained at Nagasaki only about
four months, although without any of the facilities ordi-


164 THE Pow HATAN SAILS For SHANGHAI.
marily afforded at a Navy Yard, an achievement for which
her officers certainly deserve great credit.
On the 20th of October, the Mississippi sailed for
Shanghai, leaving us alone with the Russians, the French
vessels having remained but a few days; and as the Com-
modore was anxious to send despatches to the United
States, and also growing somewhat restless under this
long period of inactivity, he soon determined to follow the
Mississippi to Shanghai, for which place we sailed on the
31st of the same month. -


TY PHoo NS IN CH INA AND J A PAN. . 165
-
CHA PTE R W III.
Reach Woosung — Escape from Typhoons—Departure for Hong
Kong–Quick passage—Arrival—Meet the Mississippi and
Germantown — The Minnesota arrives—Court Martial–Dis-
persion of the Squadron–Trip to Whampoa-Canton—“Chops”
—Chinese pirates—Christmas on board a man-of-war — Arrival
at Macao—Give liberty to the crew—Wretched accommodations
on shore—The Cave of Camoens–Luxuriant Valley—Sail for
Hong Kong— Quick trip over—Return to Macao—The 22d of
February–Hong Kong again — The Mississippi sent to Japan
– Rumors of War—Orders from Navy Department—Towing of
Germantown — Sail for Singapore.
THE anchorage near Woosung was reached on the
third day after leaving Nagasaki, and from the reports
we heard through our friends in that vicinity, of the ty-
phoons which had visited the coasts of China and Japan
during our stay in the finest harbor in the latter country,
or, indeed, anywhere in the East, we had reason to con-
gratulate ourselves on having made a fortunate escape
from the effects of these terrific hurricanes, which are
often so violent that even the masts of large vessels lying
at anchor are whipped out of them without the slightest
warning; and Hong Kong bay in the summer season fre-
quently presents a scene of the most frightful and inex-
tricable confusion among the shipping; anchors and
cables affording but slight impediments to the relentless
blasts, as they sweep fitfully over the bay and send the
vessels into one crushing and mutually destructive mass,
with masts and spars cracking and falling, and hulls


168 W H A M PO A.
to assume an air of thrift and cultivation, the land be-
coming more level and susceptible of agricultural devel-
opment. Rice-fields appear on the low-lands, and snug
villages are seen stowed away among flourishing trees on
the gentle inland slopes, while an occasional pagoda,
towering amid the clouds on either side of the broad river,
and arising"from some favoring height, announces at the
same time, the antiquity and the religious zeal of the
heathen inhabitants.
Fleets of large and small fishing-boats, passenger and
trading-boats of all descriptions, covered the river in
pursuit of their various employments; and our friend
Achin intimated that some of the long, low, rakish-looking
junks which we met, might be, and probably were, pirates.
They carried twenty oars on each side, and several small
guns mounted on carriages, and projecting over the sides
at every available point on the deck; and they looked sus-
picious, certainly, but we had neither the time nor the
inclination to investigate their character, and permitted
them, therefore, to pass unmolested.
The town of Whampoa is divided into so many parts,
that a stranger finds great difficulty in deciding which
particular locality, among the four distinct settlements in
the neighborhood of the anchorage, is best entitled to
that euphonious title. Immediately abreast of the spot
where we dropped our anchor, there was a collection of
small wooden tenements which had the appearance of
standing on stilts, knee-deep in the water—the receding
tides showing their naked foundations, and the returning
element seeming to throw a veil of charity over their
squalid poverty, and to bear upon its bosom the larger
portion of the rickety buildings composing what is called
“Bamboo town.” Numberless sampans, with their bam-


“ol D wha MP o A.” 169
boo covers, were fastened to the piles upon which the
houses are elevated, and served as the abode of a large
number of families. Just above this unsavory and pes-
tiferous collection of houses, which really resembled dilap-
idated bird-eages more than any human habitations, there
was a small collection of brick buildings crowded together
on a narrow street running along the river bank, at the
upper end of which, several docks for repairing ships had
been constructed, and this place, which is situated on
Dane's Island, I understood to be Whampoa. Two of
these docks are lined with stone, and kept in excellent
condition, being capable of admitting vessels of the largest
class. Opposite to these, on the low island of Whampoa,
is another settlement called “Newtown,” where there is
a small collection of Chinese shops and sailor boarding-
houses, and where, also, the market for foreign shipping
is situated. In the rear of this, and some three miles
distant, is a walled town which is now known as “old
Whampoa,” to which interesting spot I paid a short visit
during our stay here, and received from the inhabitants
more genuine politeness and hospitality than I had expe-
rienced at any other place I had visited in China—I allude
to the natives only, of course.
There were five or six of us in company, and as we
approached the entrance of the town, we were met by a
highly respectable old Chinaman, who joined the party
with many demonstrations of welcome, and escorted us
through the place. He insisted on taking us to the resi-
dence of one of the wealthiest inhabitants, who seemed to
consider himself highly honored by the visit, and invited
us into his spacious dwelling with rather oppressive cor-
diality. He showed us his quaint little garden, with
smoothly-paved walks, and containing rare botanical
15


170 CHINES E A R CHITECTURE.
specimens, evincing some surprise at the interest we
manifested in them. But our visit was necessarily brief,
as the time allowed us would not admit of a protracted
stay in any particular spot—the whole town was to be
overhauled, and the afternoon rapidly wearing away.
Our attention was next directed to a really beautiful
temple, within a substantial and well-finished enclosure
of hewn stone, the building being of the same material,
and less disfigured with meretricious ornament than any
other I ever saw in the country—simplicity and neatness,
united with massive strength and durability, forming its
most prominent characteristics. From this we were
taken to a similar edifice outside the walls of the town,
which stood upon a slight rising ground, and was sur-
rounded by stately trees, reaching to the margin of the
turbid river. The building bore the marks of great an-
tiquity, and differed materially from the one we had just
left, in being most elaborately adorned, both inside and
on the exterior, with enamelled porcelain, representing,
in varied colors, figures of human beings in every con-
ceivable posture, with birds, butterflies, flowers, etc.
Buddhist idols of colossal proportions, gaudily painted
and gilded, were placed behind the altar within, and sur-
rounded by numerous tokens of adoration.
The houses in this place were mostly built of blue
bricks, and were two stories high—the streets wider and
cleaner than they are generally found in Chinese towns,
and altogether there was an air of comfort and gentility
observable, far surpassing any native town or quarter
which I saw during my stay in the country. The fe-
males evinced great curiosity to see the “foreign devils”
who had so unceremoniously intruded into their quiet and
secluded streets; but they evidently had no desire to be


RESIDENCES OF FOREIGN. E. R.S. 171
seen in return, as they could be perceived stealing furtive
glances through the latticed doors, and dodging the re-
turn fire with evident trepidation. The practice of cramp-
ing the feet appeared to prevail in this ancient town to a
greater extent than any other on the sea coast, and we
saw numbers of female children hobbling through the
streets in a manner that it was painful to witness.
The distance from Hong Kong to the Bogue Forts is
about fifty miles, and from thence to the anchorage near
Whampoa it is thirty more, Canton being still twelve
miles further up the river. One of the most remarkable
“institutions” at Whampoa is the style of residence
adopted by a majority of the foreigners engaged in mer-
cantile or professional business, which consists of the
hull of some old vessel, covered over with a roof of
shingles or boards, and fitted up internally as nearly after
the manner of a house as practicable. These floating
dwellings are denominated Chops, and my experience on
board the one occupied by the American Vice-Consul at
this place — Henry P. Blanchard, Esq. — was certainly
calculated to produce the most favorable impression as to
their capabilities in the way of affording personal com-
forts, and the most liberal display of hospitality on the
part of their occupants. The lack of suitable houses on
shore, and the greater security of property against the
thievish propensities of the lower class of Chinese, with
other considerations of a political nature, render this mode
of living far preferable to a residence in town. The popu-
lation of the four settlements mentioned here, I conjecture
to be about fifty thousand, including those who spend
their lives in boats on the river, comprising about one
tenth of that number.
While the ship remained at this place, I accompanied


172 SCENERY OF PEARL RIW ER.
a party of officers on an excursion to the famous city of
Canton. Embarking early one morning in old Achin's
“fast boat," which, in compliance with his urgent request,
was armed with half a dozen muskets, and a due propor-
tion of powder, in addition to the small swivel he invari-
ably carried in the hold of his domestic craft; the old
fellow protesting that the “pilates were velly bad on the
liver,” and assuring us that it was absolutely necessary
to be “armed to the teeth,” if we hoped to reach our des-
tination alive. Two or three Colt's pistols, in the hands
of the most bellicose members of the party, and an equal
number of a more congenial style of “pocket pistol,”
loaded with pure cognac, in the possession of others,
completed our means of defence against pirates without
and thirst within; and as the wind was fair, the pas-
sengers merry, and the rowers desperately eager to escape
the clutches of their imaginary enemies, the pirates, the
two hours passed on the river seemed wonderfully brief.
There was nothing particularly striking or picturesque
in the general character of the scenery, though it pos-
sessed a degree of peaceful beauty pleasing to the eye,
and suggestive of abundance and content—the extensive
rice fields on the river's bank, stretching back to gently
sloping hills, which increased gradually in height until
they became mountains in the blue distance. We passed
many fishing stations, also, where stakes were driven into
the bottom of the river for miles, with nets between them,
and others with huge drop-nets suspended from poles,
reaching fifteen or twenty feet beyond the little bamboo
jetties erected to support them; and in viewing such
ubiquitous arrangements for entrapping the unsuspecting
inhabitants of these muddy waters, I felt much inclined
to wonder that any of the finny tribe remained to be


T H E B A R RIER FORTS. 173
caught, at this late period of Chinese history. The gene-
ral features of the scenery are rural beauty and happi-
ness; but in this case, as in many others, “’t is distance
lends enchantment to the view,” which is quite dispelled
by a more intimate acquaintance with the locality, where
neither peace nor happiness are permitted to dwell, for
foreign enemies and rebellious “braves” have made the
Canton, or Kwang-tung district, any thing but a “bed
of roses” for the last twenty years, for those who desired
a tranquil life.
About five miles below the city we passed the remains
of the Barrier Forts, which were demolished by our
squadron in 1856, and I could not repress a feeling of
regret that the unfortunate misunderstanding which
caused our attack upon them should ever have occurred.
But the Chinese required a lesson to teach them to dis-
criminate between friends and enemies, and it was given
them with promptness and effect, though without cruelty.
The first view of Canton from the river approach, is
by no means impressive, the country immediately in the
vicinity being so level that only a small portion of it, and
that the poorest, lying immediately on the river banks,
can be seen. When the foreign “factories” were in exist-
ence, with their stately buildings, surrounded by beautiful
gardens, this remark would not have applied; but now
the long line of their ruins, and the squalid poverty which
has usurped the place of former splendor, cannot fail to
excite a feeling of sadness in the breasts of those who
remember them in their days of elegant and princely
hospitalities. The river itself presents one of the most
remarkable scenes to be witnessed anywhere, and is em-
phatically sui generis in character; for the distance of at
least four miles along the banks on each side, boats of the
15 +


174 CHINES E BOATS.
singular construction peculiar to the country, are so
closely stowed together as almost entirely to exclude the
land from view; their broad high sterns, and matted
bamboo roofs, reaching generally far above the surface of
the ground, as they lie partially embedded in the mud.
There is such a variety of special designations for the thou-
sands of boats required in this great liquid thoroughfare
of the city, that it would be quite impossible for a foreigner
to acquire a knowledge of them all during a brief visit to
the place, without making it an object of more particular
attention than I was disposed to accord to the subject.
The most picturesque and attractive in appearance, how-
ever, are called “flower boats,” which are highly orna-
mented with vari-colored paint and gilding, and have
vases of flowers placed upon a neat little gallery around
the stern. They are used to convey parties of pleasure,
consisting of both sexes, of course, up and down the river
—on which occasions singing and other amusements are
indulged in with a freedom from restraint by no means
peculiar to the Chinese. These boats are usually some
thirty feet long, by eight or ten in width, and have a
house built upon them, extending nearly the whole length,
with latticed doors and windows; the interior being fitted
up in a style to gratify the luxurious tastes of the plea-
sure-loving Celestials, who call them in their “pigeon-
English”—“sing-song boats,”
Each of the mercantile establishments has its own par-
ticular sampan, managed almost entirely by women,
and in the most skilful and dexterous manner. Huck-
sters of vegetables, fish, and meat, the latter being strongly
suspected of canine, or feline origin, and peddlers of such
wares as were most in demand among this floating popu-
lation, sculled their frail and tiny craft up and down the


RESIDENCE OF M R. PERRY. 175
long avenues of boats, crying out the names of the articles
they had for sale, and making, collectively, the most un-
earthly clamor possible to imagine. On the “Honan
side” of the river, opposite to the city, the hulks of a
large number of war-junks, and other useless craft, were
resting their worn-out frames in the mud just below that
part of the town, on the island of Honan, where the
foreign merchants have their residences and places of
business. Formerly this was the locality for the ware-
houses alone, but since the destruction of the “Hongs”
by the Chinese in 1856, these “go-downs,” which were
permitted to remain up, underwent great improvements,
and were elevated to the dignity of residences.
There are no hotels in Canton for the accommodation
of foreigners, and as none of the party were provided with
letters of introduction to any of the American merchants
residing in the place, we were compelled to throw our-
selves somewhat unceremoniously upon the hospitality of
our excellent consul, O. H. Perry, Esq., who had hoisted
his flag on board a tolerably comfortable Chop, which was
snugly moored just below the small island, or rock, called
the “Dutch Folly.” Unfortunately, Mr. Perry's accom-
modations were somewhat limited; consequently, the sud-
den invasion of such a number of self-invited guests,
excited great consternation among his native servants,
whose inventive faculties were severely taxed to know
how and where to stow us during the two days, or rather
nights, we expected to remain in the domicile. As there
were only four beds, each of which was provided with a
sleeper in perspective in the person of its legitimate occu-
pant, it became imperatively necessary either that they
should be entirely resigned to the new comers, or made
to carry double—the latter alternative by no means suit-


176 CH IN ESE GOODS.
ing the tastes of any one of our party—but, I am rather
anticipating the dilemma in which the evening found us,
instead of proceeding in regular order with the story of
our trip to the Celestial city. It was about mid-day when
we reached the Chop, and after a few moments' conversa-
tion with our host, our “fast boat" was ordered to the
gangway, and we struck out for terra firma, which we
finally reached after pulling about a mile further up the
river, and literally squeezing our Chinese man-of-war into
the landing between the myriads of sampans by which it
was obstructed. Passing hurriedly through the ghastly
ruins of the once-magnificent factories, we entered the
southern gate, and proceeded through old China street
directly to the only two establishments remaining in the
city for the sale of the finer descriptions of silks, porce-
lain, etc. We saw an immense assortment of curious and
beautiful articles, consisting of vases of prodigious size—
some of which were quite large enough to have held a
portion of the thievish band whom “Morgiana” so cleverly
smothered in oil; while others were so diminutive and
delicate that they would have answered well for Titania's
toilet-table. Then there was carved ebony, or black-
wood furniture, in the way of cabinets, tables, and other
useful and ornamental articles — carved ivory, horn,
marble, and, in short, an endless variety of temptations
to spend more money than we could afford, so that the
more prudent of the party deemed it best to make a
speedy retreat, especially as everything was extravagantly
dear—causing a general burst of astonishment and indig-
nation, when we came to inquire the prices of such arti-
cles as we wished to purchase. After making a few hasty
selections of such things as I had determined to buy in
Canton, I returned with the rest of the party on board


A NIGHT on A “cho P.’’ 177
the Chop, having acquired an excellent appetite for the
abundant and well-cooked meal prepared for us, to which
we sat down at 6 P.M. This essential part of the per-
formance being over, we quietly seated ourselves to chat,
smoke, and play whist, until the time arrived for seeking
some place of repose for the night. I don't remember
what sleeping arrangements were improvised for the other
guests, but I was placed in the bed usually occupied by the
Consul's clerk, he being at the time in a somnolent state
in one of the large arm-chairs in the dining-saloon. My
conscience reproached me somewhat for taking possession
of another man's bed, although pressed to do so by his
employer, and it was sometime before I could compose
myself to sleep; nevertheless, I was inexpressibly indig-
nant when the aforesaid clerk, having awoke from his
after-dinner nap, came up to the side of the bed, and
made demonstrations of an intention to take a part of the
same, or else rouse me out, leaving me to pass the re-
mainder of the night in a chair on deck. He protested his
ignorance of my presence, however, and apologized for
waking me up, leaving the room at the same time to seek
other quarters. The night wore away after this in pleas-
ing oblivion, and after breakfast we started again next
morning, on a sight-seeing expedition within the walls
of the city, a terra incognita hitherto to all “outside
barbarians;” appreciating highly the opportunity afforded
of exploring the interior of this long-secluded and densely
populated place, for which we were indebted, by the way,
to the dogged pertinacity of our friend John Bull, who
has not only opened its so long closely barred gates, but
has established an efficient police for the protection of
foreigners after they enter its precincts.
The streets are very irregular, and so narrow that the
M


178 DESCRIPTION OF CAN TON.
projecting roofs of the houses nearly meet above, and
thus exclude the sunbeams, which at the time of our visit
would have been far from unwelcome, as the weather was
cool, and the filthy mud through which we had to tramp
would at least have been partially dried. The swarms of
people who filled not only the streets, but the comfortless
and greasy looking houses, most of which were shops for
the sale of some commodity peculiar to the country,
stared at us in sullen silence as we passed; and we felt
assured, from the sinister looks which we encountered on
every side, that the wholesome dread inspired by the
military police distributed over the eastern part of the
city, alone prevented these treacherous and cowardly
wretches from insulting, and perhaps murdering us. But
without giving the slightest heed to their repulsive scowls,
we pursued our way for the distance of about three miles
further, through narrow and unsavory streets, to the
Temple of the “Five Genii," an immense stone building,
ornamented with grotesque carvings in wood, paintings,
etc., all wretchedly executed. Entering a narrow gate-
way, we passed through a paved court to a flight of broad
stone steps, leading up to one of smaller extent immedi-
ately in front of the building—on either side of the second
court, placed in deep recesses in the walls, were colossal
human figures, painted and gilded in the most elaborate
and terrific style, and by no means smiling a welcome to
us on our entrance, but rather wearing an expression
which seemed to ask what business we had on the premises.
Passing a little to the right, we were ushered into the
august presence of the Five Genii, who, the legend states,
at some remote period of antiquity, entered the city
seated upon five rams, and promised their protection to it
for all future time; and in grateful acknowledgment of


MAHOMMEDAN MOSQUE. 179
their guardianship, the inhabitants caused this temple to
be erected for their worship. Their effigies are placed in
a hall some thirty feet square, seated in huge arm-chairs,
behind a lacquered altar, each holding in the right hand
some symbol of power, and resting their feet on a large
stone, intended, it is said, to represent the unfortunate
rams, whose ungrateful riders had transformed them into
stone as soon as they reached their journey's end; there-
by setting an example of ingratitude and treachery to
their votaries, which they have closely followed ever
since. From this place we went to a Mohammedan
Mosque, built by the Arabs more than 1000 years ago,
situated in the eastern part of the city. It rises to the
height of one hundred and sixty feet, and is thirty feet in
diameter at the base, sloping gradually upward, and
forming rather a graceful object; it is now in a very
dilapidated state, as, indeed, is the case with every struc-
ture in the Tartar quarter of the city, where it is situated.
Leaving this dreary-looking precinct, we directed our
steps toward the “Hall of Terrors,” returning westward
by the great wall of thirty feet width, and sixty feet height,
and encountering English soldiers at many points along
the route. From this wall we could perceive more plainly
the havoc made upon the adjacent buildings, during the
bombardment of the city by the English and French, and,
indeed, little else but ruin and desolation appeared within
our immediate view, though the immense space covered
by the dwellings of the inhabitants, gave proof of the vast
numbers who are still content to find a home in this
troublous community.
Arriving at the “Hall of Terrors,” we passed through
a shabby wooden gateway into a large unpaved court-
yard, on each side of which we saw a range of small


180 THE ‘‘HALL OF TERRoRs.”
rooms, separated by earthen walls, and protected in front
from unauthorized intrusion by round pieces of timber
firmly fixed in the ground, and secured at the top. In
each of these partitions are plaster casts, as large as life,
representing the different modes of punishment practised
in China, many of which still exist. One of these scenes
represents to the life the operation of boiling a poor
wretch in molten lead, another grinding him in a hand-
mill, a third sawing him asunder; and others give equally
terrible reality to the disgusting cruelties to which the
miserable inhabitants of the country have been subjected
under the tyrannous sway of the Mandarins. I do not
know whether this “Hall” had the effect of inspiring the
populace with a wholesome dread of crime, or rather of
the future retribution attending it; but I am sure, if they
experienced a degree of terror, in any degree proportion-
ate to the disgust excited in our party by the exhibition,
the result would long since have been a total abjuration
of crime throughout the country; but I regret to say,
that like all human efforts for the suppression of wicked-
mess, the Hall of Terrors has been rather unsuccessful.
We were all glad to get away from this wretched Pande-
monium, and to return to the Consul's Chop, where we
arrived just in time for the excellent dinner which had
been prepared for us, and as our ten miles rambling had
given the whole party a somewhat ravenous appetite, we
“pitched in" to the edibles with a gusto which our host
seemed to admire amazingly. After this, a quiet game
of whist concluded the amusements of the day, which
was succeeded by an exceedingly unquiet night, the
loquacious Purser and myself having concluded to occupy
the same bed—and such a night as I passed, I hope may
never again fall to my lot; but it did pass, and the morn-


RETURN TO THE SHIP. 181
ing found me sound in limb and muscle, but considerably
more fatigued than when I retired. Consequently, I rose
early, and, accompanied by Dr. Williamson, of the Pow-
hatan, struck out for a walk on shore, for the purpose of
visiting some of the smaller shops in the vicinity, and
acquiring a good appetite for breakfast. We returned
to the Chop at 9 o'clock, and found that the Commodore
and several other officers had come up from the ship, and
were actively engaged in demolishing the meal prepared
for us; so that our efforts to secure an appetite were rather
ill-timed, and very indifferently rewarded by the remnants
which remained for our consumption. At about 10 A.M.,
we bade adieu to Canton, and were soon under way down
the river in our “fast boat,” with a fair tide, but a head
wind, which made our return trip rather tedious; and it
would have been dreadfully so but for the humorous sal-
lies of one of the party, whose unfailing flow of spirits
caused us in some degree to forget the passage of time.
We kept a sharp lookout for pirates all the way down
the river, but without the slightest idea that they would
gratify us by making their appearance; and when the
ship appeared in view, old Achin was closely questioned
as to what had become of them all, to which he replied
in a manner which taxed our credulity very heavily:-
“My spose he hab maky sky pidgin,”—or in other
words, the devout buccaneers had all gone to church, to
pray, I suppose, for success in their industrious calling.
One of our party flourished his revolver about the deck
in a most ferocious manner as soon as we were under
shelter of the guns of the Powhatan, and even discharged
two of its chambers, by way of challenge to any straggling
“water rat,” or pirate, who might have postponed his
devotions to a “more convenient season.” But I am
16


182 CELEBRATION OF CHRISTMAS.
sorry to state that we arrived alongside the ship without
having had a single shot fired at us, or having the
slightest excuse for firing at any one else—a circumstance
much regretted by the party, as we felt our thirst for ad-
venture increase wonderfully as we neared our floating
castle.
A few days after our return from Canton, Christmas-
day rolled round; and as we were denied the happiness
of uniting with our home-friends in the usual festivities
of the season, we were fain to console ourselves with such
social enjoyments as remained within our reach, by drink-
ing bumpers to our “noble selves,” around the hospita-
ble table of our Commander-in-Chief, whose guests the
ward-room officers were on the occasion. Our absent
friends were duly toasted, of course, and our thoughts
reverted to them with more than ordinary tenderness, as
we contemplated the great distance by which we were
separated from them, and the joy we should experience
if we could be reunited even for the day; but as this
could not be, we hobnobbed to each other, and put the
best face on the privation of which our feelings would
admit. The day was not permitted to pass entirely un-
noticed by the crew either, but was celebrated by a
magnificent dinner in the starboard gangway of the
ship, furnished by the bumboatman, who rejoiced in
...the feminine appellation of “Sally,” and found equal
source of happiness, no doubt, on this occasion, in the
opportunity of swindling “poor Jack” on a larger scale
than usual. The maintopmen's mess were the hosts of
the entertainment, and the guests consisted of a small
number of their special friends belonging to other parts
of the ship. The dinner was served on dishes and plates,
borrowed from “Sally,” and the table was an impromptu


A N OPEN - AIR L O D G IN G. 183
affair, constructed with a few of the carpenter's pine
planks; but it was very prettily decorated with flowers,
and literally groaning under the “delicacies of the season”
—the roast pig at one end, tipping “the day we celebrate”
to the turkey at the other, with a decidedly appetizing
aspect. Receiving a written invitation to honor the feast
with my presence, to decline would have seemed churlish,
and to accept might be thought an undue condescension
for one in my official position; but feeling that my motive
could scarcely be misconstrued by the men themselves, I
cheerfully yielded to my natural impulse, and joined them
when the dinner was announced. Without taking the
seat placed for me at the head of the table, I made a few
remarks upon the eventful year we had passed together
in harmony, wishing them a “merry Christmas,” and a
happy reunion with their friends before another year
elapsed, after which I retired, leaving on the table the
bottle of old rye from which the sentiment had been ex-
tracted.
On the 3d of January, 1859, we steamed down to
Macao, solely for the purpose of giving liberty to the crew,
three months having passed since this indulgence had
been granted them. They had a jolly time, of course, ac-
cording to their peculiar notions of pleasure, with some
growling exceptions. One old tar returned on board
quite early in the morning, looking extremely “seedy,”
which was readily accounted for by his saying that he
had slept on the pavement in the middle of the street,
and when he awoke, finding no landlord to receive the
pay for his night's lodging, he had deposited five dollars
carefully on a smooth stone and walked off, considering
that sum an appropriate fee for so commodious an apart-
ment, and such a luxurious couch. His only objection to


184 A PORTUGUESE HOTEL.
it was that he felt a little lonesome. I passed one night
on shore at the best hotel in the place, and, so far as
personal comfort was concerned, would willingly have ex-
changed the bed I occupied for Jack's stony couch in the
middle of the street. I am not Sybarite enough to cry
out because a “rose leaf” chances to touch my dainty
limbs; but when I am asked to sleep on a mattrass ap-
parently-stuffed with brick-bats loosely stowed together,
and pillows hard enough, if placed on end, to serve as
pillars to support the roof of the house, I think a little
remonstrance natural and justifiable, particularly as the
rules of the establishment seemed to doom the inmates to
an ascetic life, both at bed and board—the landlord
evidently trying on his guests the experiment of the
economical Frenchman, who was astonished to see his
horse expire just as he had taught it to exist on a straw
per diem. “Ye who enter here, leave hope behind,”
would have been a most appropriate motto for the
penitential establishment kept by this worthy son of
Portugal; and I was only prevented from suggesting it
to him by the certainty that self-interest had rendered
him too obtuse to appreciate its beauty and fitness.
But, although prevented from taking “mine ease in
mine inn,” I yet found Macao a pleasant place to visit;
when, once in the quiet, cleanly streets, and leaving
behind the shops for the sale of Chinese puzzles, crape
shawls, and bogus jewelry, I could strike out for a walk
along the road leading to the “Cave of Camoens”—the
lovely, romantic spot, where this celebrated Portuguese
poet is said to have composed the greater part of his
“Lusiad"—or for a ramble toward the rear of the city,
where a luxuriant valley opens to the view, covered with
neat garden spots and quaint-looking Chinese farm-houses.


TEDIO US DELAY AT HONG KONG. 185
The old cathedral, and the fort on the hill to the right
of the town, as viewed from the anchorage, also form in-
teresting objects to sight-seers, lending an air of antiquity
to the already tranquil and peaceful character of the
place. There are many handsome buildings here, which
are occupied during the summer months by the families
of Portuguese merchants doing business in Hong Kong,
as the climate at that season is much more salubrious here
than at the latter place.
The last batch of “liberty men" having returned on
board, we left Macao on the 9th of January for Hong
Kong, passing through a group of large though barren
islands, almost uninhabited, and making the run of forty-
five miles in less than four hours.
We remained at Hong Kong until the 19th of Febru-
ary, as Commodore Tattnall was anxiously expecting in-
structions from the Navy Department relative to the
transportation of the Japanese Embassy to the United
States. He had informed the Department several months
previously, of his having placed one of the vessels of his
squadron at the disposal of the Japanese Government,
whenever the Embassy was prepared to embark, and he
very reasonably expected the orders of his own Govern-
ment relative to the extent and character of the prepara-
tions he would beauthorized to make for its accommodation
and entertainment. Mail after mail arriving without the
receipt by the Flag-officer of any communication from the
Navy Department, except a brief letter approving of his
offer of a vessel to convey the Embassy to Panama, or the
United States, if they so desired, he determined to de-
spatch the Mississippi to Simoda, for the purpose of com-
municating with Mr. Harris, and, through him, placing.
that vessel at the immediate disposal of the Japanese
16 +


186 DIs QUIETING RU Mors FROM Hom E.
Embassy, in the event of their deciding to embark on the
22d of February, 1859, according to the plan originally
contemplated. On the 14th of February, the Mississippi
sailed from Hong Kong for Japan on this service, taking
with her the materials necessary to erect the temporary
quarters to be assigned to the members of the Embassy,
which were completed in the course of the thirteen days
occupied in the passage to Simoda.
Just at this time rumors were rife at Hong Kong, of a
probable disruption of the friendly relations existing be-
tween the United States and the allied powers of England
and France, growing out of the Central American ques-
tion. The duplicity attributed by the press of our country
to Sir William Gore Ouseley, and the threat of the Em-
peror of the French, that, “as soon as the Eastern ques-
tion was settled he intended to test the efficacy of the
Monroe doctrine,” leading to the general belief that the
United States would have to maintain, “e'en at the can-
non's mouth,” the doctrine of non-intervention on the
part of European nations with the affairs of the American
continent. Deeply as we were interested in the moment-
ous question to which these rumors referred, they exer-
cised no influence whatever over the disposition of the
vessels under Commodore Tattnall's command—nor were
they permitted to interrupt, in any degree, the friendly
intercourse which subsisted between the English Admiral,
Sir Michael Seymour, and himself. The absence of the
Baron Girault de Genouilly, Admiral of the French fleet,
who was employed in establishing the French Colony at
Turon Bay, Cochin China, prevented any intercourse be-
tween him and our Commander-in-Chief during our stay
at Hong Kong; but whenever they had met, on previous
occasions, official courtesies had been exchanged between


“You N G AMERICA” AB RoAD. 187
them with every indication of mutual respect and friendly
consideration. Nevertheless, the belligerent aspect of
affairs at home gave rise to the usual amount of gasconade
among the “Young Americans" on board the “Pow-
hatan,” and elicited numerous sapient suggestions relative .
to the course which our government should pursue in the
premises. The near approach of the anniversary of
Washington's birthday had a slight tendency to stimulate
the patriotic ardor of the bellicose juveniles, and they
anticipated the arrival of the glorious day, and the cus-
tomary salute of twenty-one guns, in honor to the memory
of the “Father of his Country,” with more than ordinary
pleasure. Great, then, was their disappointment, when
the 19th of February saw the ship under way for Macao,
where the Commodore had occasion to go on business of
importance with the American Consul. After remaining
two days at this dreary anchorage we returned to Hong
Kong, firing the salute to the 22d in the passage between
the Lantao Islands, much to the astonishment and dismay
of numerous Chinese fishermen, by whose junks we were
surrounded, and greatly to the chagrin of the fiery “young
Americans” on board, who desired a more appreciative
audience for the martial music produced by the “sound-
ing brass” of our beautiful boat-guns.
Preparations were now made for our immediate depart-
ure for Japan, but, just as they were completed, an order
was received from the Navy Department, directing the
Powhatan to proceed without delay to Singapore, and
await there the arrival of the Hon. John E. Ward, the
newly-appointed Minister to China, whom we were ordered
to convey to his destination. As this order conflicted
with the Commodore's anxiety to communicate with the
Mississippi, he immediately determined to despatch the


188 DEPARTURE OF THE GERMAN Tow N.
Germantown, Commander R. L. Page, to Japan, with
orders for the government of that vessel's movements;
and to facilitate the progress of the Germantown on this
mission, the Powhatan left Hong Kong on the 1st of
March for Whampoa, for the purpose of towing her down
the river, unfavorable winds and tides frequently detain-
ing sailing-vessels several days on this passage of only
about eighty miles. The prevalence of fogs, and a slight
derangement of the machinery, delayed us in the river
until the 4th, on which day we passed through the harbor
of Hong Kong with the Germantown in tow, and con-
tinued to tow her against the strong north-east monsoon
which was prevailing, until the following morning. As
she had then reached a point ninety miles to windward
of Hong Kong, and could reasonably be expected to make
a speedy passage to Japan with ordinarily favorable
weather, we parted company, receiving from the German-
town three hearty cheers by way of good-bye, and return-
ing them with good-will; after which each vessel pursued
her course according to orders.


190 DRY season AT sing ApoRE.
ing, that our nearest neighbor was an old acquaintance—
H. B. M. steamer Furious, commanded by Captain Sherard
Osborne, and bearing the diplomatic flag of Lord Elgin, the
British Minister to China, who was on his return voyage
to England; little thinking that the lapse of a few months
would prove that all his diplomatic acumen had been
thrown away on the treacherous people with whom he had
negotiating, and that he had only supplied them with an
incentive to redoubled efforts to repulse the encroachments
of the obstinate “barbarians of the western seas.” The
Furious steamed slowly out of the roads towards the
Straits of Malacca, the day after our arrival, and as she
passed us a parting salute of nineteen guns was fired from
our battery, with the English flag at the main, which was
duly returned.
Our usual luck in escaping bad weather of every kind,
seemed to adhere to us until we reached Singapore, in
what the people on shore called the “dry season.” Upon
investigation of this term, it was found to apply to those
few weeks in the year in which the rain falls only in
showers, or occasional squalls; there being another inter-
esting feature connected with it during our stay, to which
the attention of the inhabitants could scarcely have been
directed, as I never heard it mentioned. I allude to the
agreeable manner in which the return of these refreshing
showers was varied from day to day; for instance, if it
should rain in the forenoon of one day, the next would
certainly be dry until the afternoon, and then a double
allowance of the aqueous fluid was sure to descend, and
always at the most inauspicious time. Dinner-parties
form almost the only medium of social intercourse among
the European residents, and whenever an invitation to
dine on shore was extended to our mess, the late hours


192 A N IMAGINATIVE PILOT.
when it was suddenly announced that we were to sail
immediately for Penang, touching at the old city of
Malacca, as we passed through the Straits. So that all
things considered, we managed to pass the three weeks'
sojourn at this place very satisfactorily, and to “moisten
our clay” in more ways than one, notwithstanding “the
dry season.”
On the 1st of April, the mail-steamer again arrived
from Bombay without bringing the expected Minister,
and the Commodore at once determined to vary the scene
a little by paying a brief visit to Malacca, and then pro-
ceeding to Penang, for the purpose of intercepting Mr.
Ward, at that point on his route. Having secured the
services of an English pilot for the Straits, who came
strongly recommended, equipped with a ponderous tin
case filled with charts, and an enormous spy-glass, we
got under way on the morning of the 3d at early day-
light, and bidding a sleepy adieu to our still slumbering
friends on shore, steamed away from the anchorage toward
the entrance to the Straits of Malacca. The pilot, who
bore the unique name of Smith, entertained us on the
passage out of the roads with an account of a trial of
speed which he averred had taken place between the
“Minny-sotter” and the “Hesk,” on the voyage from
Singapore to Penang—the result of which was a very
decided difference of opinion between the officers of the
two vessels, each claiming the victory; and to settle the
important question, Smith asserted that he had been ap-
pointed “empire,” by unanimous consent of both parties.
After due deliberation on the part of this second “Daniel,”
he had decided without circumlocution or equivocation,
that the “Minny-sotter” would inevitably have beaten the
“Hesk” if she had possessed a little more power in pro-


A N C H Q RA GE AT SING A POR E. 193
portion to her immense size, and the weather had been
perfectly calm—assuring me that he had not hesitated so
to express himself to the “Hesk’s” officers. Having had
considerable intercourse with the officers of the Esk, and
heard no previous reference to this subject, and nothing
but commendatory remarks from them respecting the
Minnesota, I am induced to believe that Mr. Smith was
indebted to his imagination for the race between these
two vessels, especially as many of his subsequent state-
ments proved him to be of rather a fanciful turn of mind,
and decidedly given to romancing.
We anchored off the ancient town of Malacca on the
second day out, in a spot designated by the pilot, but
which we afterwards learned from the residents on shore,
was an extremely dangerous one in the event of a Suma-
tra, this being the local name given to terrific squalls
which frequently blow from the opposite side of the
straits, in the summer months, and whose violence is such
as to unroof houses, tear up trees by the roots, and devas-
tate things generally. Our fair weather angel had not
deserted us, however, notwithstanding our ungrateful
murmurings at the Singapore rains; and we passed two
days as comfortably at this interesting old place as if
the “empire” had been the best of pilots, and our anchor-
age the most secure he could have selected for us.
Viewing the town from the ship's deck, it had the
appearance of having been once a handsome, well-built
city, on which the hand of Time, and the march of im-
provement in architectural design, had clearly written
“passing away.” The decaying wooden buildings on the
left seemed to extend some distance out into the water,
apparently contemplating a plunge into the refreshing
element for the sake of cleanliness, which they greatly
17 N


194 ANTIQUITIES OF M A. LACCA.
needed; while the more imposing stone structures on the
right, and toward the hill upon which the old fort was
situated, looked as if they had been imported from Am-
sterdam in the sixteenth century, about which time the
Dutch, who were the “early birds” of the age, effected a
settlement here among the Malays.
Possessing some antiquarian taste and a leisure hour,
I accompanied a party of officers who were about to visit
the shore soon after our anchoring, and as we approached
the landing-place pointed out by the pilot, the town began
to wear a fresher and more lively aspect. A broad and
well-kept lawn, shaded by fine old trees, extended along
the entire water-front, and the substantial old Stadt-house,
flanked by several handsome residences, loomed up in all
its pristine glory, on a gently rising eminence near the
centre of the picture. The swelling tides are kept within
their proper limits by a substantial stone-wall reaching
nearly from one extremity of the town to the other,
and having convenient landing-places at two or three
different points; though the approach to them at low
tides is attended with considerable difficulty, the shoal
water extending nearly a mile from the landing. Two
or three small islands lying near the coast off each end
of the town, give the anchorage somewhat the appearance
of a harbor, but there is no indentation of the coast suffi-
cient to justify the application of this term. The anchor-
age is commanded by a strongly built fort on a hill two
hundred and fifty feet high, to the right of the town, near
which stands the remains of an ancient Catholic Church,
constructed by the Portuguese in the sixteenth century,
the walls of which are still standing, though the roof has
long since been numbered with the things that were.
Two large trees have taken root in the walls, and grown


A N H OS PITA B L E OFFICER. 195
with such luxuriance, that their branches spread over a
large portion of the space between them, affording a slight
protection to the crumbling ruins, against the effects of
the heavy rains and squalls incident to the climate.
While I was engaged in making these observations, the
boat reached the landing, the tide being in, and as we
jumped briskly from her to the flight of stone steps ex-
tending from the quay, we were welcomed to the shore
by a cordial greeting from as jovial aspecimen of a British
army officer as it has ever been my good fortune to en-
counter. As the Powhatan was the first American man-
of-war that had touched at Malacca for many years,
Captain Austin felt assured that we were all strangers in
the place; and with a degree of frankness and genuine
hospitality which is not always met with in his country-
men, he advanced to meet us, and invited us to go imme-
diately to his quarters, informing us that there was no
hotel in the place, but such refreshments as his establish-
ment afforded were entirely at our disposal. After par-
taking with him of a bottle of “creature comfort” in the
shape of “India Pale Ale,” the more juvenile members of
the party sallied forth under the guidance of our gallant
host, to be introduced to some of the fair sex, intending
to invite them to visit our ship on the following morning,
and feeling assured that so rare an opportunity of in-
specting a man-of-war, and especially one from Yankee"
land, would not be lightly rejected. I joined a messmate,
meanwhile, in a pleasant ride into the interior, during
which we passed through immense groves of cocoanut
trees, in the midst of which we saw occasionally wretched
looking wooden buildings in the most dilapidated condi-
tion, the occupants of which—native Malays—could be
seen lounging in their immediate vicinity in all the luxury


196 CH IN ES E TO M B.S.
of perfect idleness, and almost in a state of nudity. The
rankest vegetation abounded every where, and the exces-
sive heat of the equatorial latitude rendered the shade
of the massive foliage equally beautiful and refreshing.
The road was perfectly level for the distance of two or
three miles, and passed through lanes dividing fields in
which rice had formerly been cultivated, but in which
only very scanty crops of vegetables could now be seen.
Our attention was attracted on approaching the rising
hills, by seeing on their gently sloping sides numerous
Chinese graves, and we were struck by the neat and sub-
stantial structures which covered each spot where rested
the mortal remains of an expatriated “Celestial,” whose
soul, let us charitably hope, had been welcomed to the
realms of which he claimed to be a native while in this
unworthy sphere. The oblong tomb, standing two feet
above the ground, was enclosed within a semicircular
wall of nearly the same height, having a radius of about
twenty feet, and the entire surface of the interior was
smoothly plastered with bluish cement, while the wall and
the tomb were meatly white-washed, presenting, if not an
attractive, at least not a repulsive, appearance, and differ-
ing materially from any style of tomb I had ever seen in
China. -
Meeting with no other objects of interest, and the un-
*relenting tyrant Time, who exercises such iron rule over
every one whose lot is cast in a man-of-war, pointing with
stern significance to the setting sun, warned us to “tack
ship” and “stand for the anchorage,” where lay the object
of our dutiful solicitude and professional pride. Reaching
the landing, we found the rest of the party awaiting our
return to embark in the boats which had been sent to
convey us on board the ship, and learned from them that


ENTERTAINMENT ON BOARD. 197
-
we were to be honored on the following morning, by a
visit from a large majority of the ladies, comprising upper-
tendom in Malacca. The crème de la crème of Society,
the Neubronners and the Baumgaertens proposed to
lift us in the social scale by their notice, and we were, of
course, greatly elated at the prospect, for each individual
bearer of these euphonious names had a perfect right to
attach F. F. to the end of it, being all lineal descendants
of the Stadt-house itself, or at least, of some of its former
occupants.
By ten o'clock on the morning of the 5th, four of our
largest boats returned from the shore, containing about
forty of the élite of the ancient city, most of whom were
ladies, and all of whom were welcomed on board in our
best style. The band was immediately called upon to dis-
course its most eloquent music for the entertainment of
our fair guests, while the ship underwent the usual in-
spection so interesting to strangers, and so gratifying to
the pride of an efficient officer, who listens with natural
pleasure to the complimentary remarks upon the clean,
white decks, the brightly polished guns, and the trim and
neat appearance of the spars and rigging generally.
Although many of our visitors had never before been on
board of a man-of-war, a very cursory examination of the
ship's equipments and general condition sufficed to satisfy
their curiosity; and the quadrilles which the band now
struck up produced such an electric effect upon the assem-
bly, that one would have thought they had been bitten
simultaneously by a swarm of tarantulas, and the “poetry
of motion" became the grand sensation of the hour. The
spacious quarter-deck was soon converted into a ball-
room, and naval etiquette and official distinctions of rank
were sunk for the nonce, in the determination not only to
17 *


198 AN A MUSING MIS TAKE.
contribute to the entertainment of our guests, but to
enjoy the rare occasion ourselves, with all the gusto accu-
mulated during the long period in which we had been
denied the pleasures of female society. Tables of refresh-
ments were supplied with all the “delicacies of the season,”
of which the company partook as inclination prompted.
One little faux pas occurred in the cabin: the Commo-
dore's steward having placed upon the table a large bowl
of betel-nuts, which must have excited no small degree of
astonishment, and perhaps dismay, among the fair guests,
as they are used only by the Malays and Chinese, who
chew them for the stupefying effects they produce, serving
as a cheap substitute for opium. But if any of the de-
moiselles supposed they were first to be drugged with the
betel, and then carried off to sea in a somnolent state,
they evinced no disposition to escape the fate in store for
them by an early leave-taking; nor was their appetite
for the more substantial meal in the shape of dinner,
which in due time appeared, at all diminished by mental
anxiety; on the contrary, our guests seemed to enjoy
every thing with the relish usually excited by healthful
exercise, and the pure, bracing sea air. The dancing was
resumed late in the afternoon, and kept up with unabated
vigor until about 8 o'clock, when the fast receding tide
warned the party of the necessity of a speedy departure
for terra firma, unless they seriously contemplated spend-
ing the remainder of the night on board the Powhatan—
an arrangement which I do not suppose would have been
greatly objected to on the part of many of her officers.
The day following we were all invited to a ball to be
given in the Stadt-house, by those who had been enter-
tained on board the ship; and it is needless to say, the
invitation was accepted by a large number of the recipi-


A DIS A P POINT MENT. 201
that they should resort, in a spirit of desperation, to the
only place where there was any likelihood of their obtain-
ing what they so much coveted.
The general retirement of the ladies from the ball, sug-
gested the propriety of collecting together these thirsty
sons of Neptune, that the boats might be in readiness to
convey us back to the ship; and for this purpose, I went
to the landing about one o'clock, at which hour, our
sapient and veracious pilot had averred, the tide would
serve for our embarcation; but on reaching the spot I
discovered, to my horror and dismay, that the boats were
lying alongside the quay on their sides, while there was
not sufficient water to float them within less than half a
mile: their weary crews were lying asleep on the grass
near them, and the prospect of reaching our floating
home by water appeared so remote that I was compelled
to seek shelter and repose for my tired limbs under the
hospitable roof of Captain Austin, until the tide rose suffi-
ciently to float our stranded boats. This much-desired
object could not be accomplished until 7 o'clock in the
morning, at which hour might have been seen assem-
bled on the landing the most disgusted and “seedy”
looking party of beaux, who ever met on a festive occa-
sion—the maledictions poured on the head of the ignorant
old pilot, forming a marked contrast to the honeyed words
which the same lips had so recently been addressing to
their partners in the dance. We reached the ship, how-
ever, in time for a substantial breakfast, by which we
were somewhat consoled for the discomforts of the night,
and resuming our respective duties, soon remembered
only the more pleasurable circumstances connected with
the occasion.
About 10 A.M., on the 7th of April, we were in the act


202. ARRIVAL AT PEN AN G.
of getting under way for Penang, when it was discovered
that our rather abstracted chaplain still remained on
shore, where he was doubtless employed in collecting
valuable information concerning the moral condition of
the Malays and Hindoos, as his sympathies were warmly
enlisted in behalf of the destitute heathen nations, with
whom, of late, he had been so frequently associated. He
was soon seen coming off in a native boat, however, and
arrived on board with a thousand apologies for the delay
he had unwittingly caused. We then bade adieu to the
old town which our visit had so thoroughly awakened
from its slumbers, and steamed up the straits toward the
romantic island which is generally called the “Paradise
of the East.” -
We reached the northern end of Penang late in the
following evening, but were compelled to anchor upon the
pilot's recommendation, in consequence of a heavy squall,
which rendered it too dark for him to distinguish his
“marks.” Early the next morning we were again under
way, arriving off Georgetown, the capital of the island, at
about 9 A.M., where we anchored within half a mile of
the landing, and immediately abreast of the fort in front
of the town, which is built on a level plain, extending
several miles along the eastern side of the island, and
back to the mountainous range near its centre.
Three miles in the rear of the town stands Government
Hill, at an elevation of nearly 2800 feet above the sea:
this forms the principal point of natural beauty in the
place, and affords a salubrious retreat from the heat of
the plain below, which is usually very oppressive—the
thermometer ranging between 80° and 95° Fahrenheit
throughout the year.
We soon formed the acquaintance of the principal in-


BALL ON BOA. R. D. 203
habitants, and by way of placing ourselves on the most
agreeable social terms, with the ladies especially, invita-
tions were issued, on the second day after our arrival, to
a ball on board the ship—a style of entertainment which
usually possesses irresistible attractions for the fairer por-
tion of humanity.
Anticipating a much larger number than we had on
board at Malacca, the arrangements for their reception
and amusement were on a more extended scale; the guns
were removed from the quarter-deck, to make room for
dancing; the awnings were lined with national flags, and
chandeliers made of barrel hoops, covered with bunting,
and having bayonets lashed around them to hold the
lights, were suspended here and there along the deck,-
seats were arranged on either side for the “wall flowers”
in particular, and the company in general,—though as
well as I remember, the scarcity of ladies was such that
we had no botanical specimens of the former class — the
combined result being that of a brilliantly lighted ball-
room on shore.
A handsome supper was spread both in the cabin and
ward-room, and extensively patronized by the entire
company up to the hour of 3 in the morning, when the
guests returned to the shore, protesting that no man-of-
war had ever acquitted herself so creditably in the way
of entertainment.
So favorable an introduction of ourselves to the com-
munity at Penang, gave us at once the entrée to every
respectable house in the place; and invitations to dinners,
tea-squalls, etc., were showered upon us in great profu-
sion from all points of the compass, which were cheer-
fully accepted by the more juvenile members of our little
fraternity; but I was glad to embrace the opportunity


204 THE Gove RN or's BUNGA Low.
afforded me by the Commodore, of spending a few days
with him at the Governor's bungalow, on the summit of
the hill or mountain in the rear of the town.
While at Singapore, the Governor had kindly placed
this delightful mountain residence at the disposal of Com-
modore Tattnall during his sojourn at Penang; and as
something more than the possession of the large empty
building was required, in order to render its occupancy
comfortable and convenient, our hospitable Consul, Charles
C. Currier, Esq., constituted himself the host of the estab-
lishment, sending up his own servants daily with abund-
ant supplies for the use of the party, which consisted of
Mr. Currier, the Commodore, the Chief Engineer, the
Marine officer, one of the Medicos, and myself.
A few days were whiled away here in the most agree-
able manner, the dolce far niente of our life on the hill
contrasting strongly with the rigid requirements of duty
which had governed us on board ship, to say nothing of
our escape from the excessive heat prevailing below, the
mean temperature of the hill being 76°, while the nights
were quite cool enough to make a blanket a necessary
sleeping companion. The whole extent of the island, six-
teen miles in length by eleven in breadth, can be plainly
seen from this elevated point of view, including a fine
prospect of the wide-spreading town, and also of the straits
for a long distance. The lower world, however, was occa-
sionally entirely obscured by the whirling clouds around
and beneath our mountain eyrie, which would settle in
the deep ravines, until caught up by some eddying blast,
and dispersed far and wide over hill and dale.
The earth was almost entirely concealed from view by
the luxuriant and beautiful vegetation spread over its
surface, and trees of gigantic proportions shot their


TRO PICAL SCEN E R Y. 205
towering and graceful branches up from the deep recesses
of the valleys, overhung by precipitous heights, along the
sides of which lay the smooth and winding road leading
to their summits. Birds of rich and varied plumage sung
their wondrous notes of Nature's music, making the air
vocal with melodious strains, while the spicy and aromatic
odors produced by the nutmeg, clove, and jessamine, lent
their fragrance to perfect the enchantment of the scene.
And even during the night the woods resounded with the
strange, and not unmusical chirpings of the numberless
insects frequenting their tropical recesses—the trumpeter-
beetle, in particular, sending forth its brazen notes with
such stentorian voice as to induce the idea that they pro-
ceeded from some mountain minstrel.
Nor were we devoid of society of more sympathetic
and congenial description in this cloud-wrapped region;
the families of Sir Benson Maxwell, the Recorder of the
island, and of Mr. Green, the business partner of Mr.
Currier, having taken up their abode on the hill previous
to our arrival, and extending to us the hospitalities of their
charming homes. But the luxurious ease of our sojourn
in this delightful spot, was daily rendering the thought
of our return to the stern and monotonous realities of
our professional life, more and more unwelcome, and yet
more imperative; causing us to descend to the level of the
plains below, not at all inclined to appreciate the social
enjoyments by means of which our less fortunate mess-
mates had been endeavoring to “kill time” during our
absence. A few days after our return to the ship, how-
ever, all hands were invited to a ball given by the Resi-
dent, or local Governor, to the Commodore, and the
attendance was as large as the duties of the ship would
permit; even the high-minded excursionists to the hill
18


PRO DUCTIONS OF PEN A N G. 207
feast” poorly compensates for the absence of the rich and
aromatic fruit itself, which seems to combine the flavors
of the orange, the peach, and the pineapple, and yet re-
sembles none of them apart; the pulp is white and is
enclosed in a thick rind, from which it is easily separated.
There is another fruit found throughout the Straits Ter-
ritory, called the Durienne, which is considered delicious
by those who once acquire a taste for it, but its nauseating
odors repel persons generally from making any attempt
to cultivate its acquaintance; it is somewhat larger than
the pineapple, and is not unlike that fruit in external ap-
pearance. It is said to be exceedingly rich and nutritious,
as well as refreshing. A few years since the nutmeg tree
grew here in great luxuriance and productiveness, but
latterly an unaccountable blight has fallen on the trees,
and on many extensive plantations they have been en-
tirely destroyed—compelling the planters to resort to the
less profitable growth of the cocoanut. Sugar-cane is
cultivated to some extent on the island, but by no means
so largely as in the province of Wellesley, from whence
several cargoes are annually exported to England. Tin
is brought in considerable quantities from the mines of
Junkceylon, on the Malay Peninsula, and exported from
Penang, and there are various other articles of commerce
indigenous to this locality, which afford a source of profit
to the merchants of the island.
The mail-steamer, which reached this port on the 22d
of April, brought as passengers the Hon. Mr. Bruce, the
newly-appointed British Minister to China, and Rear-
Admiral James Hope, ordered to relieve Sir Michael
Seymour in command of the English naval forces on that
station. Their presence on board the steamer being in-
dicated by a small square flag at the fore, a salute of


208 A R RIVAL OF THE CHES A P E A K E.
seventeen guns was fired from the Powhatan, in compli-
ment to the elevated positions they were en route to
assume. A few days subsequently, the English steam-
frigate Chesapeake appeared off the harbor; and as
soon as they discerned the Admiral's flag flying at our
mizen, the American ensign was displayed at her fore,
while a salute of thirteen guns was being fired from her
battery in compliment to our Flag-officer. Commodore
Tattnall had received an order, some months previously,
from the Navy Department, to haul down the broad pen-
dant so long worn by commanders of squadrons in our
navy, at the main royal mast-head, and hoist a square
blue flag at the mizen, in token of the new title of “Flag
Officer,” assigned to an officer in his position by our ultra
democratic Congress in 1858; thus conceding the sub-
stance—the position and authority of Admiral—while they
shrank affrighted from the shadow conveyed by the purely
naval designation. The Chesapeake came into the an-
chorage, but remained only a few hours, being under
orders to proceed with all despatch to the China station,
where she was to become Admiral Hope's flag-ship. As
she passed us on her way out of the harbor, her band
played “Auld Lang Syne,” to which ours replied with
“Home, Sweet Home.” We rather suspected our Eng-
lish friends of a little disposition to taunt us with the
victory which the name of the ship recalled—while, in
return, we desired to intimate to them that it only re-
minded us of the Capes of “Old Virginny,” and the de-
lights of home.
On the 28th of April, the steamer, whose arrival was
to be the signal for our departure, came into Penang with
the American flag flying at the fore, in compliment to the
presence on board of His Excellency, John E. Ward,


HOS PITALITIES OF PEN A N G. 209
Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to
China. Another salute of seventeen guns was fired, of
course—this time with our own bright flag at the fore,
instead of the English, in honoring which we had recently
consumed so much powder. On the following day, the
Flag-officer accompanied the Minister on a friendly visit
to Sir Benson Maxwell, at the summit of Government
Hill, where they were received with the cordial hospi-
tality and distinguished consideration which that truly
noble specimen of an Irish gentleman so well understands
how to display.
In anticipation of our immediate departure for China,
on the arrival of the mail-steamer with the Minister on
board, the principal citizens of Penang had united to
make a demonstration of their kindly feelings toward the
officers of the ship prior to that event; and invitations
to a dinner and ball to be given by them on the evening
of the 28th of April, had been issued and accepted a few
days previously. As soon as it became known on shore
that the Minister had arrived, he was also invited to par-
take of the hospitalities of the occasion, and cheerfully
complied. The house selected for this double entertain-
ment was the residence of one of the wealthiest merchants
in the place, and admirably adapted to the purpose, being
the largest private dwelling I ever entered. The dinner
was a very handsome affair, and was attended by fifty
gentlemen, who assembled at 74, and rose from the table
at 9}, having partaken, meanwhile, of the various viands
presented for their consumption, drank sundry potations,
made several “neat and appropriate” speeches, and
pledged everlasting friendship, individually and collect-
ively; fairly wiping out all national distinctions, by the
unanimity and cordiality which prevailed. “The Queen,”
18 + O


210 RETURN TO CHINA.
“the President,” “the Captain and Officers of the Pow-
hatan,” “the Minister of the United States to China,”
“the Consul of the United States to Penang,” were the
standing toasts, and were all drank with “three times
three,” and appropriate music from our fine band; after
which, came a brief response of acknowledgment from
each distinguished official. Our Captain acquitted him-
self with a great degree of good sense and eloquence, and
the Minister did honor to the occasion in as pretty a
little speech as I ever heard, giving unquestionable evi-
dence of the diplomatic ability and brilliant social quali-
ties which a further acquaintance during the six months
of his intimate association with the Powhatan's officers,
proved him to possess — the feeling, pertinence, and
humor of his remarks exciting universal applause.
Bringing these convivalities to a somewhat hasty con-
clusion, the gentlemen ascended to the ball-room, where
the ladies had already assembled, in readiness for the
more ethereal portion of the evening's entertainment.
The band of the Powhatan being in attendance, and strik-
ing up a lively quadrille, dancing was immediately com-
menced and untiringly kept up until three o'clock in the
morning, when we parted with regret from the many
friends we had made in Penang, and returned to our
steam-winged home, now ready to make another flight
across the cheerless waters of the China Sea.
On the morning of the 1st of May, we took a last, lin-
gering look at the beautiful island where we had received
so much genuine hospitality and kindness, and where our
presence, as we flattered ourselves, had conferred no small
degree of pleasure on the estimable people with whom,
for a brief space, we had been associated; men-of-war so
rarely touch at Penang of late years, that the inhabit-


POPULARITY OF M R. W. A. R.D. 211
ants hail their visits with delight—the ladies especially,
regarding the advent of a crowd of bright-buttoned beaux,
attended by a fine band of musicians, as an incident of
great importance in the calendar of their usually monoto-
nous lives, and worthy of being marked with a “white-
stone.”
We passed Singapore without stopping, save for a few
moments to land the “empire,” from whom we parted
with very dry eyes, as he was certainly the most worth-
less specimen of a pilot, and the most unconscionable
yarner with whom I have ever been brought into contact.
The passage to Hong Kong was marked by nothing of
material interest, apart from the pleasure we derived
from the society of our distinguished passengers, for
whom an universal feeling of respect and friendly regard
was entertained by the officers of the ship. Mr. Ward
was considered a fine specimen of a Southern gentleman,
and a better representative of the diplomatic corps of our
country than is ordinarily appointed to any other than a
first-class European mission.
The unsettled condition of the relations between China
and the great commercial nations of the earth, rendered
it particularly desirable that our country should be repre-
sented, at this time, by a man of great ability and politi-
cal acumen, and there is no doubt that Mr. Ward was
admirably well calculated to sustain the dignity and
honor, as well as the commercial interests of his country,
in any emergency that might arise.
We arrived at Hong Kong on the 10th of May, dis-
pensing with the assistance of a Chinese pilot on this
occasion, and securing a convenient anchorage, without
annoyance to ourselves or damage to others.
Orders were immediately issued by the Flag-officer, to


212 DELAYS AT HON G KONG .
have the ship in readiness for a six months' absence from
this, our only depot for provisions on the station, accom-
panied by the assurance that only four days would be
allowed for the performance of this rather arduous duty
— five hundred tons of coal, and about the same weight
of provisions, water, wood, and stores, having to be
received on board, in addition to the daily routine of
duties, many of which, however, were necessarily sus-
pended for the time. Besides all this, a small steamer
was to be chartered and equipped for service as “tender”
to the ship, for the purpose of conveying the Minister
and his suite from the mouth of the Pei-ho to Tientsin, to
which point there was no doubt entertained of his being
allowed to ascend.
The work progressed with extraordinary rapidity, and
the ship was reported ready for sea at the expiration of
the fourth day after our arrival; but there was some
hitch about the charter-party of the steam-tender, which
delayed our departure four days longer. The British
Admiral, on hearing incidentally of the difficulties encoun-
tered in our efforts to procure a suitable vessel, made the
very complimentary and generous offer of two of the gun-
boats under his command to perform the service for which
the Flag-officer had been authorized to charter a steamer;
but the courteous proposition was respectfully declined, of
course; Flag-officer Tattnall having no desire to place him-
self under unnecessary obligations, and anticipating the
possibility of more active employment for all the Admiral's
forces than appeared to be contemplated at the moment.
The arrival of our new Minister at Hong Kong,
created the necessity for a considerable expenditure
of powder in complimentary salutes, as he was visited
by all the foreign diplomatic and naval dignitaries in


THE “To EY-WAN” CHARTERED. 213
the town and harbor, and subsequently had their visits to
return, the usual noisy testimonials of respect being ex-
changed on each occasion, and the Powhatan answering
all salutes to her honored guest.
On the 16th of May, the English steamer Toey-wan,
of 175 tons burthen, was chartered by the Flag-officer for
the period of five months, at the rate of $9000 per month,
the owners incurring all risks to which she might be ex-
posed during the continuance of the charter-party, saving
those incident to battle. By the order of the Flag-officer
to Captain Pearson, Lieutenant Alexander A. Semmes,
of the Powhatan, was immediately detailed to assume the
command of the “tender,” and she was forthwith supplied
with two assistant engineers, one Midshipman, two Mas-
ter's mates, and a crew of twelve men, by whom she was
soon equipped in her new character as an American
Government vessel—the stars and stripes replacing the
cross of St. George at her peak, and a graceful coach-
whip pendant at the masthead, indicating her national
employment.
On the morning of the 18th, she was taken in tow by
the Powhatan, as she proceeded to sea on the long
northern cruise for which we were now thoroughly pre-
pared—having on board, in addition to the Minister and
his Secretary of Legation, S. Wells Williams, L.L.D.,
official interpreter to the embassy, and George W. Heard,
Esq., attaché; also Albert Heard, Esq., of the house of
Heard & Co. Dr.Williams had held the office of Secretary
to the former Legation, and his services appear indispensa-
ble to every minister sent to China by our government;
his long residence in the country, and his thorough ac-
quaintance with the written language, as well as with the
peculiar customs of the Mandarins in the transaction of


HEco's ARRIVAL IN JAPAN. 215
on his shoulders, if he returned under protection of the
Powhatan's guns, as death has always heretofore been the
penalty awarded to the return of shipwrecked natives
after having visited other countries. His request for a
passage was cheerfully granted, so far as conveying him
and his companion to Shanghai could facilitate his natural
and persevering efforts to reach the long-lost home of his
childhood. His mild and gentlemanly manners and gene-
ral intelligence soon made him a great favorite on board,
and not desiring to recur to the subject again, it may be
as well to state here, that before we left Japan for the
United States, Heco had become a merchant at Yokuhama,
with every prospect of making a fortune. He retained
his character as a naturalized American, and adhered to
his Yankee costume with equal pride and personal com-
fort. Mr. Van Reed was also in prosperous circumstances,
both these gentlemen having obtained a passage from
Shanghai to Kanagawa, in the steam-frigate Mississippi,
in the month of June, 1859.


216 LEAVE HON G R J N G.
CHA PTER X.
Sail for Ningpo with chartered steamer in tow—Insufficiency of our
Naval force—The Chusan Islands—Ningpo-Another passenger
– Badweather—Heavy rolling—Ship ashore-Receive a pilot
and get off—Anchor near Woosung—Visit to Shanghai–Escort
of Minister Ward to visit the Imperial Commissioners—Return
of his visit—Delay at Shanghai–The Allied Envoys–Arrival and
departure of the Allied forces bound to the Gulf of Pecheelee –
Hon. Townsend Harris–Sail for the Gulf–Preliminaries of the
battle of Taku–Description of same—Flag-officer Tattnall's con-
duct on the occasion — Reciprocal courtesies between that officer
and Admiral Hope—Appearance of the scene of action the follow-
ing day—The Chinese defences—Visit to Pehtang-Sympathy
with the English—Their gallant conduct—The Fourth of July.
GoING through the Lymoon passage,(the eastern entrance
of the bay of Hong Kong into the China Sea), we began to
feel the retarding influence of the Toey-wan, as soon as the
rising swell, created by the N. E. monsoon, sent the bows
of the sharp little craft diving into the foamy wake of her
powerful leader. . The towing hawsers were alternately
dipping into the rushing waves of the “wheel-water,” and
stretching to their utmost tension through the resistless
strain kept up by our noble engines, in spite of the rough-
ness of the opposing sea; but the speed of the ship was
perceptibly affected by both these causes, and we came
to the conclusion that towing was not the most agreeable
or the most appropriate duty to be assigned the Flag-ship;
but Uncle Sam is too desperately poor to keep up a suffi-
cient force on foreign stations to perform the service he


INA DE QUATE N A VAL FORCE. 217
requires of the navy, and his dutiful nephews cannot,
therefore, afford to stand upon their dignity when there
is work to be done. It really had a most pitiful appear-
ance, and a most humiliating effect upon our feelings, to
see the Flag-ship of our squadron, consisting of three
vessels and mounting in the aggregate forty-two guns,
brought down to the condition of a tow-boat to a hired
English steamer, and we all felt that even the urgency
of the occasion failed to invest our employment with a
shadow of dignity. I am far from being an advocate for
a very large increase of our naval force, but it is impossi-
ble to deny the total inadequacy of the number of men at
present authorized by Congress for keeping afloat a suffi-
cient number of vessels to protect our commercial and
diplomatic interests on foreign stations. Only 8500 men
of all the grades or ratings required in men-of-war, are
allowed to be enlisted for the navy, and if there were
15,000, ample and necessary employment could be found
for them all in the more efficient protection of our con-
stantly increasing commerce, and of our migratory citi-
zens, who are spread over the whole surface of the globe.
This conviction is the result of nearly thirty years' experi-
ence in the navy, and cannot be justly ascribed to any
desire for personal advancement in my arduous profession,
inasmuch, as my elevation to the highest rank known to
the service, would now come too late in life to gratify
ambition, or to be a source of any great rejoicing.
But I grow prosy and egotistical, forgetting the narra-
tive in the desire to become a little too communicative,
perhaps, with regard to my individual opinions and some-
what disappointed professional aspirations.
The bright skies and smooth seas which had generally
marked our course during the active cruising of the ship .
19


218 THE CHUSA N IS LAN IDS.
up to this time, seemed now to be overcast with gloom,
and ruffled with portending trouble. We did not get a
glimpse of the sun from the day we left Hong Kong until
we sighted the Chusan group of islands, a little to the
southward of Ningpo-though we navigated so accurately
by the outlying islands, and prominent points on the
coast, as to lose no time in entering the narrow passage
between the two southernmost of this group, in which we
contended about ten hours against the almost overpower-
ing strength of the fearful tides, rushing in various direc-
tions around and among them. The hill-sides and valleys
of these beautiful islands are cultivated in every avail-
able spot by the industrious people to whom they belong,
but there are few habitations visible, these singular beings
preferring to pass most of their lives in the innumerable
boats which were seen sailing in all directions through
the labyrinthian waters of the numerous passages. A
cluster of huts was occasionally visible, however, snugly
stowed away in some smiling valley surrounded by trees
of stunted growth, and almost concealed from view.
On the 22d of May, at about 8 P.M., we anchored five
miles from the entrance of the Ningpo river, on the banks
of which the city of Ningpo is situated, at the distance
of twelve miles from the sea. The Toey-wan was dis-
patched to the city early on the following morning, for
the purpose of conveying to the ship the Rev. Wm. A. P.
Martin, an American missionary who has resided there
nine years, and acquired a thorough knowledge of the
Mandarin dialect, which is used altogether in diplomatic
intercourse with Chinese officials, and is spoken by the
inhabitants generally, in the northern provinces of China.
Mr. Martin's services as an interpreter were a very essen-
tial acquisition to the Embassy destined for Peking, as


VOYAGE TO SHA N G HA. I. 219
Dr. Williams did not profess to understand this peculiar
dialect of the Chinese language; his residence in the
country having been confined to the neighborhood o
Canton. -
All of the passengers availed themselves of the oppor-
tunity to pay a hasty visit to the handsome city of
Ningpo, which is considered the best built and most
cleanly on the coast of China; and they returned the next
day quite charmed with this little digression from the
stupidities of man-of-war vegetation. Their appearance
on board was the signal for our pursuance of the voyage
to Shanghai, and the leviathan was soon tugging away
again at the useful minnow at her stern. But the weather
proving boisterous and rainy, we were compelled to anchor
again after reaching the convenient shelter afforded by
the Rugged Islands, distant some thirty miles from the
spot we had left. Here we remained until the following
morning, when, as the indications of more favorable
weather suggested, we made a second start for our desti-
nation, but the fates seemed to be contending against the
accomplishment of our wishes with singular pertinacity,
for we encountered a very heavy swell after getting clear
of the lee afforded by the islands, and as it would have
been imprudent, not to say unsafe, under the circum-
stances, to have attempted to cross the shoal water ex-
tending many miles out from the mouths of the Yangtze
and Woosung rivers, the Flag-officer gave orders to have
the ship brought to anchor just outside of the line of
these shallow soundings, at about 3 P. M. The Toey-wan
was cast off as soon as we anchored, and Lieutenant Sem-
mes left to “paddle his own canoe," but as the Flag-
officer wished to give him some instructions, a boat was
lowered to take them on board, which had scarcely touched


220 HEA WY GAL E.
the water before the ship rolled her heavy guards down
upon its gunwale, causing it to fill with water, and en-
dangering the lives of those who were endeavoring to
shove the boat off from the ship; fortunately no one was
injured, and the boat sustained but little damage. An-
other boat was lowered with a more successful result, and
sent to pick up the floating oars, etc., from the one which
had been swamped; meanwhile, the Toey-wan got under
way, and came near enough to receive the necessary orders
from the ship's deck, instructing the officer in charge to
make the best of his way toward the mouth of the Woo-
sung river, and to send a pilot out to the ship as expedi-
tiously as possible.
The wind falling light and the heavy swell continuing,
while the strong tide swept furiously in a contrary direc-
tion, the Powhatan displayed a capacity for rolling quite
equal to her fine sailing qualities, but by no means so -
highly appreciated; and as there was reason to apprehend
that the violent exercise in which she was indulging
would soon cause the masts to tumble over the sides if
she remained at anchor, I was directed by the Captain at
8 P.M., to get her under way. The two boats were still
towing astern, as the heavy swell running across the tide
rendered it impracticable to hoist them in their places at
the davits, but before very long the larger of the two,
which was still filled with water, saved us any further
trouble in the way of towing by taking its leave for
“parts unknown,” the hawser by which it was attached
to the stern of the ship proving too weak to bear the
additional strain caused by the boat's being drawn so
rapidly through the water. It was too dark and rough
to make any effort to recover it, and doubtless the ocean
waif soon fell into the hands of a less wealthy owner than


T H E POW H ATA N AG ROUND. 221
Uncle Sam, as there are numerous junks and foreign
vessels at all times in this vicinity.
We continued under way all night, the ship's motion
being much easier than while at anchor, and at daylight
next morning, the sea having become quite smooth, her
course was set for the mouth of the Woosung river; but
at a little before eight o'clock it was discovered that we
were approaching very shoal water, and all hands were
ealled to “bring ship to anchor.” I had scarcely taken
charge of the deck for this purpose, however, before her
progress was stopped by striking on a mud bank, while
heavy breakers were seen quite near on the starboard
beam, the misty weather having obscured every sur-
rounding object up to this moment. Here was the climax
to all the annoyances and disasters which had beset our
course since the day we left Ningpo After making
every practical effort by means of the immense steam
power the ship possesses, to release her from the decidedly
uncomfortable position in which she was placed, and find-
ing that all availed nothing, it was determined to lighten
her, and preparations were made to get the guns over-
board; while anchors were planted in the direction from
which the tide was running, to prevent her from work-
ing further on to the bank and becoming embedded in
the mud. But not to be tedious with technicalities, re-
course was had to every means ordinarily employed under
such circumstances, for the purpose of getting the ship
afloat–all without success. Meanwhile, a boat was
dispatched to board an English merchant vessel, seen
standing toward the mouth of the river, with a request
that her captain would communicate our situation to the
commanding officer of the Mississippi, which vessel was
then lying at Woosung. A Chinese fishing-boat was also
19 +


222 RECEIVE A PILOT.
employed to convey the Commodore's secretary, Mr. All-
mand, to the anchorage with the same intelligence, and
with instructions to send out a pilot as soon as practicable;
the Purser and two of the passengers gladly availed them-
selves of the same opportunity to get out of what they
evidently considered an unpleasant predicament, even
should it not prove a dangerous one.
About 7 P.M. the pilot's well-known boat was seen
approaching the ship, and the important functionary was
soon on board, receiving from all sides a most cordial
welcome, every one feeling that our deliverance from
serious calamity depended upon his thorough knowledge
of the depth of water, and the locality of the shoals and
quicksands existing in our vicinity. He immediately
informed us that we had grounded on a shoal called the
“North bank," toward which the tide had forced the ship
while endeavoring to reach the entrance of the river in
misty weather. The tide being full at this time, orders
were given to slip the cable and hawsers attached to the
anchors that were down, and using the full power of the
engines, the good old ship was soon afloat again! Reach-
ing deep water after steaming two or three miles, she
was again brought to anchor until the morning, as day-
light was necessary to enable us to get out of the ugly
spot into which we had been drifted, and it had now be-
come quite dark. Efforts were made to mark the locale
of the two anchors we had been compelled to “slip," so
that we might secure them in the morning, but the pirati-
cal Chinamen who swarmed around the ship in their
fishing-boats as soon as they saw her aground, had re-
moved the buoys, and, of course, all trace of the missing
anchors was destroyed, thereby rendering their recovery
next to impossible, from the softness of the mud in which


A R RIVE AT WO OS UN G. 223
they were, doubtless, swallowed up. The ship's boat
returned in the evening, and the following morning we
got under way, by the direction of the pilot, who found it
necessary to steam at “full speed,” across a level plateau
upon which there was just sufficient water to float the
ship, extending several miles from the spot where we had
anchored. Fortunately, the sea was unusually smooth,
enabling us to cross this plateau without serious damage,
although the ship struck frequently on the bottom with
considerable violence. Passing this ticklish ground, all
was again “serene,” and we pursued our course with joy-
ful hearts toward Woosung, where we anchored outside
the entrance of the river, in the course of five or six
hours—having met the Mississippi and the Toey-wan on
their way to afford any relief we might require, and
directed them to return to their anchorage.
The next day we got under way again, and, by way of
keeping us in practice as a steam-tug, towed into the
Woosung the American ship Sultan, which vessel was
lying near us with a cargo of coal just arrived from the
United States for the use of our steamers on the China
station, which was to be landed at Shanghai; but to
facilitate matters, as soon as we reached the usual an-
chorage the Sultan was lashed alongside, and we com-
menced immediately the cheerful operation of coaling ship.
During this time I embraced the opportunity of visiting
Shanghai, where I remained four days in the enjoyment
of the hospitalities afforded by the princely establishment
of Russell & Co.
While here I joined a large naval and military escort,
organized under the orders of Captain Nicholson of the
Mississippi, to accompany our Minister on an official visit
to the Imperial Commissioners, Kweiliang and Hwashana,


224 VISIT TO IMPERIA L OFFICIALS.
with whom he desired to have an interview relative to
the ratification of the Treaty negotiated by Minister
Reed, in June, 1858. The escort consisted of twelve
officers in full uniform, with several persons attached to
the Embassy, (all of whom were conveyed in sedan-chairs,)
and a guard of sixty marines, headed by the Powhatan's
band; the Minister, with his Secretary and interpreter,
being placed in the centre of the column, and the marines
bringing up the rear. We marched four miles through
the filthy lanes which disgrace the name of street in the
old city of Shanghai, before we reached the residence
of the high Mandarins entrusted with the diplomatic
treacheries of the Monarch who condescends to mis-
govern the “Celestial Empire.”
Our progress was attended by marked demonstrations
of admiring curiosity on the part of the greasy populace,
as they crowded the narrow streets through which we
passed, staring with open-mouthed wonder at the brilliant
uniforms of the soldiers, and the resounding notes of the
martial music. Arriving at the Yamun, we were re-
ceived with the usual three-gun salute, followed by skriek-
ing strains from the flageolet, which must have excited
the most pleasing sensations in the breasts of the attend-
ant “celestials,” as their perceptions of all things are the
antipodes of ours. Then came fulsome compliments to
the guests—painful self-detractions from the hosts—a
brief interview on official matters between the high func-
tionaries, and finally, a grand collation of the gastronomic
abominations in which Mandarins delight, and from which
human nature revolts. This penance accomplished, the
imposing procession was again formed, and after the
manner of the King of France, who “marched up the
hill and then marched down again,” we found our way


RESULT of DIPLO MATIC INTERVIEWs. 225
back to the splendid mansion of Heard & Co., where we
found a substantial Tiffin awaiting us, by way of com-
pensation for the horrors which politeness had forced
down our throats.
Two days afterward, the 4th of June, the Imperial
Commissioners returned the visit of our Minister, at the
house of Heard & Co., in which he occupied apartments
as a guest of the establishment. It was amusing to
observe the undisguised astonishment of these high-
feathered dignitaries at the spacious and handsomely
furnished rooms, the rich and tasteful decorations of the
table, and the affluent elegance everywhere visible, con-
trasting delightfully with the comfortless and poverty-
stricken appearance of their ill-constructed and shabbily
furnished habitations.
The official results of these interviews appeared to ren-
der our immediate departure for the Gulf of Pecheelee
unnecessary, inasmuch as these Commissioners would
have to reach Peking by land before the object of our
Minister's contemplated visit to that city could be accom-
plished, and they stated that the journey between the two
cities usually occupied sixty days / As the appointed time
was near at hand when the exchange of the ratifications of
all the treaties entered into at Tientsin was to take place,
and it had been ascertained that the Emperor intended
to have this ceremony performed at his capital, the Im-
perial Commissioners remained at Shanghai solely for the
purpose of meeting the English and French Ministers,
the Hon. F. W. A. Bruce, and the Count de Bourboulon,
desiring to confer with them on some points connected
with their treaties, which still remained unsettled. With
the determination not to permit any objection to be raised
against the exchange of the American Treaty, on the score
P


226 DU PLICITY OF THE CH IN E SE.
of failure to present it within the prescribed period, Mr.
Ward obtained from the Commissioners a written acknow-
ledgment of his compliance with every preliminary stipula-
tion, and informed them that he regarded the exchange as
having virtually taken place. And the Flag-officer, de-
siring to obviate the delay attending a land-journey to
Peking, and, at the same time, to give a practical mani-
festation of the friendly feeling entertained toward the
Chinese Government by his own, made the courteous offer
of the steam-frigate Mississippi, then at Shanghai, to con-
vey the Commissioners to Taku, which they declined
through fear of the Emperor's displeasure—observing, at
the same time, that as the right granted to the American
Envoy to go to the capital was derived from the treaties
with the Allied Powers, it was proper that he should
accompany the Envoys of those Powers to Peking; and
the general tone of the wily Chinese officials was such as
to dispel any latent suspicion of the treacherous reserva-
tions which were developed at the second battle of the
Pei-ho, about a fortnight later. The only remark they
made to our Minister, indicating the opposition that
would be made to the ascent of the Pei-ho by the foreign
envoys, was an assurance that the Toey-wan would not
be permitted to go to Tientsin; but it might readily have
been inferred from this that the heavily armed gun-boats
in which the English and French Envoys were intended
to be conveyed to that point, would not meet with a more
favorable reception in their attempt to ascend the river
than the defenceless craft at Mr. Ward's command.
The Allied Ministers reached Shanghai on the 6th of
June, but as they declined holding any personal inter-
views with the Chinese Commissioners, the necessity for
their longer stay at that place was removed, and they


w
Mov EMENTs of BRITISH squad Ron. 227
started for Peking on the 13th. Meanwhile, the English
and French naval forces were concentrating at this point
d'appui, for the suitable escort of their respective Min-
isters to the scene of diplomatic action. The Admiral
was at Shanghai, with his flag flying on board the steamer
Inflexible, and as the vessels came in from the southern
ports, they passed Woosung, and proceeded immediately
to the rendezvous of their Commander-in-Chief. As the
time approached, however, for their departure for the
scene of their future operations, they were seen steaming
gayly past us, on the outward-bound trip, having an air
of confidence in their ability to destroy all the mud-forts :
John Chinaman could construct, and of delight at the
anticipated opportunity of doing it, which could not fail
to excite our professional admiration, and personal wishes
for their success; although there were some among us
whose prejudices against everything English were too
deeply rooted to permit them to appreciate justly the
energy and skill with which the naval operations of our
trans-Atlantic cousins are almost universally conducted.
As soon as all the smaller vessels of the squadron had
been dispatched to their destination, they were followed
by Admiral Hope in his temporary flag-ship; the Chesa-
peake having been also sent in advance a few days pre-
viously. The French screw corvette Duchayla, with the
tender, Norzagaray, soon followed—the French Minis-
ter being on board the former, and the English Minister
having previously sailed in the steam-frigate Magicienne.
The Hon. Townsend Harris, who had now been ele-
vated to the rank of Resident Minister at Yedo, and had
come over to Shanghai for a brief respite from his labors,
in the steamer Mississippi, paid a visit to our ship on the
14th of June, and was received with a salute of seventeen


228 REACH THE PEI - HO RIW ER.
guns. And on the following day, Mr. Ward came down
to Woosung in the Toey-wan, with a large party of ladies
and gentlemen, who were received on board with great
pleasure, such an event being of particularly rare occur-
rence in that benighted region. The services of the band
were soon brought into requisition, of course, and sundry
polkas, etc., were executed in spirited style by the gay
and agreeable company, but most unfortunately, they
were soon compelled to retire to the cabin by a heavy
rain-squall, and as there was no intermission in the fall
of rain for several hours afterward, they were finally
obliged to return to Shanghai, late in the evening, on
board the Toey-wan, and land in the drenching torrent
which poured incessantly nearly the whole night.
The time had now arrived for our departure, also, for
the Stygian Gulf, which was soon to be the theatre of
such important events, and of such a disastrous defeat of
the Allied forces. The Hon. Mr. Ward, and suite, re-
turned to the Powhatan on the 17th of June, and prepa-
rations were made for our immediate departure; but as
it was necessary to await the operation of the flood-tide
in turning the ship's head seaward, in consequence of the
narrowness of the river, we could not get under way until
midnight, at which hour we took our departure. The Toey-
wan having been anchored outside previously, was now
taken in tow again, and we proceeded on our course, reach-
ing the anchorage off the mouth of the Pei-ho at 2A. M.,
on the 21st, without incident of any description, except our
overtaking the Duchayla, which vessel had sailed from
Woosung several hours in advance of us, and had the
reputation of being “fast;” but by taking a different route
through the Meiataou group of islands, at the entrance
of the Gulf, she arrived at the anchorage ahead of us


3d Boom
&N imrod
*
º -
sº Yory wan. *
French Gun Boat"
WCoromandel
Mud at Low Water
\ { Comorant -
\g





PRE PARING FOR COM B.A.T. 231
could be elicited from this obliging subordinate, respect-
ing the force within the forts, a matter of some curi-
osity to us, and of vital consequence to the menacing
Allies; but the gracious assurance was vouchsafed that
no harm would be done to the Toey-wan, unless she
attempted to remove the booms, which was not very likely
under the circumstances.
The Flag-officer communicated the result of this inter-
view to the English Admiral, but as he had already deter-
mined to comply with Mr. Bruce's request to open a
passage to Tientsin for him, via the Pei-ho, the informa-
tion came too late to be of any service, although it might
have been, if the English Minister would have consented
to pursue the new route indicated. The absence of the
usual Chinese display of flags and men on the walls of
their forts in the presence of an enemy, and the greater
part of the port-holes being covered with mats, no doubt,
deceived the Admiral into the belief that they were not
very strongly defended; but, at all events, he was bound
to make the attempt to force a passage up the river, and
as the day was near at hand when the Minister should
be in Peking, (the 27th,) he ordered one of the gun-boats
to commence the removal of the stakes composing the
first barrier, on the night succeeding the interview re-
ferred to. A single gun was fired from one of the forts
at the vessel employed in this work, but she persevered
until an opening was made sufficiently wide to admit of
her passage. -
On the morning of the 25th, the gun-boats were
arranged in order of battle, preparatory to attacking the
forts; and just as the Admiral had completed his prepara-
tions, a boat was seen coming from the shore containing
a Chinese official, who held in his hand a large document,
20 +


232 THE BATTLE OF T.A. KU.
which he displayed in such a manner as to attract the
Admiral's attention, but he directed the bearer to be
warned off, saying that it was too late for negotiation. At
a quarter before three o'clock in the afternoon, the Admi-
ral advanced in the gun-boat Plover through the first
barrier, and ran full speed against the second, the vessel
rebounding considerably with the shock; at this moment
the forts on each side of the river opened a terrific fire
upon the assembled vessels—the first shot taking off the
head of one of the men at the bow gun, and mortally
wounding three others. The fire was instantly returned,
and kept up with unwavering skill and undaunted courage
for nearly three hours, although the shot from seven
different forts were falling among them with the most
deadly effect, and producing a scene of carnage and de-
struction almost without a parallel in naval warfare.
The receding tide conspired with the overwhelming supe-
riority of the Chinese force, to destroy or render useless
the staunch and dauntless little gun-boats, leaving two
of them aground in such positions as to render it impossi-
ble for them to do any execution with their batteries,
while two others were sunk at their anchors, and still two
more forced to withdraw from the action in a sinking con-
dition, and seek the poor refuge afforded by the adjacent
flats, where their injuries could be repaired during low
tide. At about 5 P.M., a young midshipman came on
board the Toey-wan from a neighboring gun-boat to in-
form Flag-officer Tattnall that the English Admiral had
transferred his flag to the Cormorant dispatch-boat, and
had been seriously wounded. While standing on the
“bridge,” (a light platform raised five or six feet above
the deck and extending across the vessel,) a shot came
from one of the forts, and striking the chain “life-line”


THE ENGLISH ADMIRAL woun DED. 233
extended along its edges, drove three links into his thigh,
causing him to fall heavily upon the deck below, by which
three of his ribs were broken. In addition to this, there
were but six men remaining on duty on board the Plover,
out of a crew of thirty-seven, and as the little Middy in-
formed the Flag-officer of these disasters, he looked wist-
fully toward a number of large boats anchored below the
line of fire, and stated that the Admiral was extremely
anxious to bring into action the reinforcements which
they contained. As the strength of the tide rendered it
impossible to effect this object without the assistance of a
steamer, and the Toey-wan was anchored near these boats,
Flag-officer Tattnall yielded to the generous and noble
impulse which prompted him to render this unsolicited
service to the gallant Admiral, toward whom he felt under
obligations for the prompt and handsome manner in which
he had, the day previous, proffered him the use of one of
his vessels. The suggestion was made to him that the
step he contemplated would involve a violation of the
neutral position occupied by his country in the belliger-
ent turn which affairs had taken, but he replied, “blood
is thicker than water,” and ordered the Toey-wan to be
got under way immediately, and to proceed to tow the
reserve force in the boats up to the point where their
presence was so much needed—Mr. Ward and Captain
Pearson expressing their approbation of the Flag-officer's
determination.
At twenty minutes before 8 P.M., a storming party of
600 men, under the command of the senior captain of the
fleet, landed on the muddy bank of the river, immediately
abreast of one of the forts, which was not more than 400
yards distant. Many of these men were shot down in
the mud before reaching the dry ground, and here they


234 GALLANTRY OF COM. TATTNAL L.
encountered three wide ditches, two of which were filled
with water, and the third with large iron spikes, over
which it seemed impossible to pass alive. While en-
deavoring to overcome these apparently insurmountable
obstacles, the Chinese sharp-shooters which lined the
walls of the fort, were throwing up fire-balls so profusely
as to illumine the entire ground in front, and firing upon
their assailants with such deadly effect that but few suc-
ceeded in reaching the walls of the fort, although most
gallantly cheered onward by their commanding officer.
More than one-third of their number were either drowned
in the ditches or killed by the destructive fire of the
enemy; and it was 2 o'clock in the morning before the
survivors of this desperate attack found their way back
to their vessels, the command having finally devolved
upon the officer who was the third in rank at the time of
landing.
After the Toey-wan had towed the first detachment of
the reserve force into action, Flag-officer Tattnall felt in
honor bound to call upon the English Admiral, and offer
his personal sympathy and assistance. Without giving
a thought, therefore, to the imminent hazard to which he
would expose his own life, and consulting only his duty
as a man, and the honor of the profession of which he has
always been regarded as an ornament, he ordered his
barge to be manned, and accompanied by his Flag-lieu-
tenant, S. D. Trenchard, pulled alongside of the Cor-
morant, through the midst of the tremendous fire which
the forts still continued to pour into that devoted vessel;
the Chinamen recognizing the Admiral's flag at her mast-
head. Just as the barge came within a few feet of the
side-ladder, a shot struck one of the oars, and entering
the boat, passed through her bottom on the opposite side,


FATAL CASUALTY. 235
coming within a few inches of the Flag-officer, and find-
ing its exit between the legs of his Flag-lieutenant, as he
sat in the “stern-sheets.” Fortunately they were close
enough to the gangway to reach the ladder before the
boat sunk, and they were soon on the deck of the steamer,
not, however, without a more serious misfortune than the
sinking of the boat—the Coxswain having received a
mortal wound on the side of his head, inflicted, it was
supposed, by a splinter from the oar that had been
shattered by the shot. He was taken on board the
steamer, and immediately afterward conveyed to the
hospital vessel, where he died in a few hours, without
having spoken from the moment the singular catastrophe
oceurred. His name was John Hart, and a finer specimen
of a seaman is seldom met with. The Flag-officer was
exceedingly grieved at his loss, as he regarded him with
a feeling of personal attachment, growing out of his long
and faithful services. Commodore Tattnall returned to
the Toey-wan in a boat furnished by the commander of
the Cormorant. While the boat's crew were detained on
the deck of the Cormorant, they observed that one of the
guns was very short of men to work it, and several of
them immediately stepped forward unsolicited, and ren-
dered all the assistance in their power during the few
minutes they remained on board.
The allied forces were occupied during the whole night,
after these painful and thrilling events, in endeavoring to
recover their scattered boats and men, and to preserve
as much of the property on board their sunken vessels as
could possibly be recovered, and this in spite of the un-
ceasing fire kept up by the victorious enemy, the boom
of whose heavy guns was frequently heard breaking the


236 BU RIAL OF JOHN HART.
still gloom of the night, and giving fatal utterance to his
foul and cruel treachery.
Early on the following morning the Toey-wan returned
to her anchorage, near the Powhatan, bringing out a
large number of the marines who had been engaged in
the battle, and also the body of John Hart, which was
buried about a mile from the ship with appropriate
ceremonies. As soon as the minister and other passengers
on board the tender were transferred to the ship, I was
directed by the Flag-officer to assume temporary com-
mand of that vessel, and repair on board the English
tender at anchor outside the bar, for the purpose of offer-
ing any further services the Toey-wan might be capable
of rendering, apart from actual engagement in battle. The
Admiral seemed to be highly gratified by this unexpected
attention, and requested that I would proceed to the
mouth of the river, and report the object of my visit to
Captain Willes, the captain of the Flag-ship. Availing
of a favorable tide, I crossed the bar, and anchored near
the large dispatch vessel Nimrod, which was just outside
the ordinary line of fire, though occasionally reached by a
shot from one of the heavier guns. The next morning
Captain Willes came on board and took breakfast with me,
assuring me it was the first meal he had tasted for thirty-
six hours. He requested me to remain until 10 P.M., at
which time the tide would serve to cross the bar, and
convey to the transport Assistance, at anchor outside, a
portion of the marine force which had found temporary
shelter on board the junks, seized for this purpose by the
Admiral's orders, previous to the bombardment. This
request was cheerfully complied with, and the service
performed; after which I returned to the Powhatan, at 2
A. M., on the 28th, with the thanks of the Admiral, and


CH IN ESE FORTS. 237
the assurance that the Toey-wan's assistance was no
longer required, as two of the sunken gun-boats had been
raised, and nearly all the men had returned to their re-
spective vessels.
While lying at anchor in the entrance of the river, I
had a good opportunity of observing the defences con-
structed by the Chinese during the year which had elapsed
since their total demolition by the Allied squadrons, under
Admirals Seymour and De Genouilly, with a force of 2500
men; and whatever may be said of the ignorance and
cowardice of the race, there can be no question of their
industry, or of the adequacy of the works they had
thrown up, to resist almost any force that could be as-
sembled in the entrance of the narrow river, for the pur-
pose.of forcing its passage. There were no less than
seven different forts, mounting eighty-seven guns that
could be seen through the embrasures, and among them
there were several throwing solid shot as large as our
8-inch shells; — how many there were that could not be
seen, will never be positively ascertained, I imagine, as
the Chinese are not particularly communicative on such
subjects to foreigners. The obstructions placed across
the river extended from a point about a quarter of a mile
outside of the two forts immediately at its mouth, a dis-
tance of three miles or more beyond their inner walls,
two lines of abattis forming the outer barriers, above
which there were two booms constructed of large logs of
timber secured together by heavy chains, and stretched
endwise across the stream at convenient points; consti-
tuting, altogether, about as formidable an obstacle to pro-
gress as could readily be conceived, even by those cunning
and persistent enemies to the moving spirit of the age in
which we live. In addition to this, the mud flats, which


238 DISASTER OF THE CORM OR ANT.
were left bare at low water, extended a hundred yards or
more from the channel, on each bank of the river; and
they were sown broadcast with caltrops, rendering the
passage between the channel and the forts sufficiently
hazardous, even to those who might have the strength to
stagger through the sticky mud, and the skill to dodge
the fire of the jingalls and Minié rifles, poured upon
them from the parapet walls.
The beautiful dispatch-vessel Cormorant, which had
figured so conspicuously in the capture of these forts the
year previous, now laid with her stern hard aground
within three hundred yards of one of the largest forts;
and the Chinese evidently regarded her as having been
fairly “bagged,” giving her only an occasional shot by
way of testing the accuracy of their fire, which was by
no means remarkable during the twelve hours I watched
their proceedings. She had been left to her fate the night
previous, on account of the dreadful havoc made among
her crew, and the impossibility of bringing her guns to
bear; but an effort was made the night afterwards to
float her off upon the flood tide, which would doubtless
have succeeded, but for the unfortunate misunderstanding
of an order given to the Engineer, who started the engine
to “back,” instead of “ahead,” as directed; by which
means the propeller got so embedded in the mud as to be
immovable. But the vessel had changed her position, so
as to present her full broadside to the fort; and as soon
as it was discovered that she could not be started, it be-
came necessary to blow off the steam which had been
raised. The sound of the escaping steam awakened the
attention of the unwary gunners in the fort, and they
soon sent such a shower of shot at the devoted vessel,.
that the officers and men who had undertaken the daring -


A PHEN O MEN ON . 239
attempt to recover her from the enemy, were compelled
again to abandon the unlucky craft to the inevitable
destruction which now awaited her. They embarked
quietly in their boats on the least-exposed side of the
vessel; and, all starting together, made one of the most
exciting regattas I have ever witnessed—shot flying
around them, and over them, at every stroke of the oars;
often drenching the crews with the muddy spray sent up
by plunging into the water near them, and yet all escaped
uninjured to their vessels.
The Lee and Plover were locked in the last fond em-
brace of dying love, with their graceful forms resting
upon the inhospitable shore, near one of the forts, from
whence the vengeful foe continued to project destructive
missiles through their unresisting framés. The Kestrel
sought refuge at the bottom of the turbid stream from
the iron hail-storm which raged above; but, soon becom-
ing dissatisfied with the change, she raised herself suffi-
ciently from the superincumbent element to glide smoothly
and quietly down the tide, until she reached a point where
her astonished and grateful friends could with safety send
a crew on board to conduct her to a more comfortable
position. This vessel was sunk early in the action, quite
near to the second barrier, and during the day I remained
at anchor in the mouth of the river, her hull was totally
invisible; but in the course of the following night, she
was raiséd from the bottom by some unaccountable cause,
and drifting down near to the Nimrod, a crew was sent
on board from that vessel to anchor her on the flats,
where her injuries were soon repaired. I leave the ex-
planation ºf this philosophical phenomenon to the savans
of the country, and have only to request a due acknow-
.* ledgment of the favor conferred upon them by furnishing .
- 21 Q


240 RESULT OF THE BATTLE.
so interesting a case for their deliberation and investi-
gation.
The allied force consisted of 1350 men (of whom only
about 60 were French); and the loss of the English
amounted to 450 killed and wounded, 29 of the number
being officers; the French had 4 killed and 12 wounded.
The Admiral and the three senior Captains were all
seriously injured, one of the latter dying shortly after-
ward of his wounds. -
The excitement on board the Powhatan during the
bombardment was so intense, that the tops and masts were
lined with eager gazers, and as I had been directed to
have 200 men prepared to land at a moment's notice, I
ordered the heavy launches to be got ready for hoisting
out for that purpose. The work was performed in less
time than it ever had been before, though it proved to be
unnecessary.
Notwithstanding this disastrous termination to the
diplomatic labors of the Allied Envoys, Minister Ward
resolved not to leave the Gulf of Pecheelee before every
practicable effort had been made to accomplish the im-
mediate object of his mission. Statements were made to
him through the interpreter relative to certain orders
alleged to have been issued by the Emperor, for the pur-
pose of facilitating his journey to the capital, via the
Pehtang route; but these were supposed to be nothing
more than a piece of Chinese manoeuvering, to induce
him to leave the Gulf without giving any further trouble;
however, to give the Celestials the benefit of the doubt,
he requested Flag-officer Tattnall to despatch the Toey-
wan in search of the village, where it had been repre-
sented the Governor-general of the province of Chihli,
would be found prepared to carry out the Emperor's in-


242 RET REAT TO THE BOATS.
document to one of the considerate and more emboldened
villagers, and receiving from him an assurance that it
would be safely placed in Hangfuh's hands, Mr. Mar-
tin made the best time of which his rather elongated
“understandings” would admit toward the beach, his
companions looking in amazement at his sudden and
speedy departure from the scene of his usefulness; and
failing to comprehend the meaning of it, (as they could
not understand the warning he had received), until they
turned an inquiring gaze upon the Chinaman, who quietly
but significantly pointed to a troop of horsemen, which
could be seen advancing toward them at full speed.
“Upon this hint they spake” not, but the description of
walking they performed is generally known in this
country as “exceedingly tall;" and the breed of horses
in China not having received that attention which has
been devoted to the subject in England and America,
they succeeded in reaching the boat just in time to escape
a somewhat more familiar acquaintance with the in-
hospitable dwellers on the coast, than they desired. They
returned to the ship at sunset, quite satisfied with their
experience of the northern entrance to the Pei-ho, and
much gratified, at the same time, to find that there was
some truth in the assurance we had received.at the Taku
forts, that such a place actually existed. Deciding now
to allow ample time for an answer to Mr. Ward's letter
to reach him before leaving the Gulf, we had the satisfac-
tion, on the 2d of July, of seeing two large junks ap-
proaching the ship from the direction of the village, one
of which proved to contain a Mandarin, bearing a note to
the minister, from Sun, the Intendant of the Tientsin
Circuit, informing him that the Governor-general was
then at Tientsin, but that his letter would be forwarded


PREs ENTs F Rom THE AUTHo RITIES. 243
to him immediately, and an answer sent as soon as possi-
ble. The other junk was filled with fresh provisions, sent
as a present from the authorities on shore to our Com-
mander-in-chief, and consisted of 20 sheep, 20 hogs, 23
bags of flour, 20 bags of rice, 189 chickens and ducks,
besides numerous baskets of peaches and apricots, and a
quantity of vegetables. After a short consultation be-
tween the minister and the Flag-officer, concerning the
propriety of accepting this generous tribute to our inner
diplomacy, it was decided to receive it, and to make a
return of such things as it was supposed would be equally
acceptable to those who had honored us with this atten-
tion; Uncle Sam's pork, whisky, and bread, of the
quality usually supplied to his men-of-war, being luxuries
in which even Chinese Mandarins might well be glad to
indulge.
The “fresh grub" was distributed pro rata, among the
officers and crew of the Powhatan and Toey-wan, some-
what after the manner of the knowing Middy, who ordered
the men, when receiving their hammocks, “to take the
first one they came to, and leave the biggest for the
officers,” taking it for granted that they were the best.
But the shares received by the officers' messes generally,
were sent immediately to the wounded sufferers on board
the English men-of-war, our good friends on board the
Chesapeake, whose crew had been terribly cut up in the
recent action, receiving “the lion's share.” This little
mark of sympathy for the afflicted and crest-fallen among
the gallant little band which had suffered defeat, but not
dishonor, in the late battle with a hitherto ever-beaten
enemy, did more to dispel the senseless prejudices and
jealous suspicions which are so apt to animate the officers
of both the American and English Navies, than if we could
21 +.


244 A TT ENTIONS TO THE WO UN DE D.
have joined them with our whole force in the attack upon
the forts; and they hastened from all sides on board our
ship to express their high appreciation of the feeling
which prompted this natural and kindly attention.
The 4th of July finding us again in this wretched Gulf,
but with altogether different associations from those by
which we were surrounded the year preceding, the day
was permitted to pass without any patriotic rejoicings
over the event of which it is the anniversary, save the
customary salute, fired at meridian, according to a regu-
lation of the Navy Department. Our English friends
were cheerfully excused from joining in this, as it would
have been exceedingly annoying, if not dangerous, to many
of their wounded men.
º:


DELAYS OF DIPLO M.A. C. Y. 245
CHA PTE R XI.
Interesting incidents connected with departure of Embassy to Pe.
king—Mr. Ward's interviews with Hangfuh–Chinese soldiery
—Pehtang—Withdrawal of Allied forces from the Gulf—Arrival
of Governor-General of Siberia in Russian steamer America —
His visit to Pehtang in the Toey-wan—Preparations for depart-
ure of the Embassy–The names of those who composed it—
Chinese “chariots” – Horrible roads — The Embassy on the
Pei-ho —Tungchau–Arrival at the Capital—Interviews with
the Commissioners — Long discussion on the ceremonies of an
audience with the Emperor — Slight concession to Mr. Ward
—Changes from former usages — Chinese estimations of the
Emperor's character—Mr. Ward's refusal to kneel before him
*—The Kotau–Chinese incredulity and duplicity—The Russian
Minister—Disappointment—Kweiliang's quandary—Mr. Ward's
solution—The President's letter—The Emperor's rescript—Kwei-
liang and Hwashana—Return of Embassy to Pehtang—Exchange
of the Treaty—Death of Rev. Mr. Aitchison—Sail for Shanghai
—“Short commons” during the absence of the Embassy.
So many exciting and really important incidents
occurred during the month of July, 1859, when viewed
in their immediate connection with the crowning event
of all our two months' experience in the Gulf of Pecheelee;
namely, the departure of the first American Embassy to
Peking, that it will be necessary to resort to the form of
a diary, in some measure, in order to give the reader a
clear idea of the numerous delays and annoyances ever
attending diplomatic negotiations with these singular
people, upon whose ridiculous and formal dalliance the


INTERVIEW WITH H ANG FU H. 247
only “his own sweet will” as to the style of his dress; a
liberal bespattering of the all-pervading mud, however,
being one very decided mark of uniformity in their ap-
pearance. The “chariots” were nothing more nor less
than long, narrow-bodied carts, without springs or seats,
the occupant being expected to furnish his own cushions
and make his own arrangements, to secure as many of his
bones from breakage as possible, during the journey he
may contemplate. They are usually driven tandem, and
are covered by an awning, which extends over the shaft
horse, and protects him and the driver, who sits upon the
shafts, from the weather.
When the Minister and his suite reached the Governor-
General's residence, they were received with every mark
of distinction and courtesy, according to Chinese customs,
and as soon as they had partaken of the little collation
prepared for them, the principal personages were seated,
and the conversation on business was commenced by
Hangfuh, who inquired of Mr. Ward, “If he had heard
that there had been a conflict at Taku with the English,”
and when he received an answer to this question, the next
was, “Then you have heard people speak of it?” the in-
tention being, I presume, either to convey to the Minister
the idea that he was ignorant of the fact of the presence
of the American steamer during the action, or wished to
appear so, for the sake of removing any feeling of embar-
rassment on that account that might exist in his mind.
But it is folly to attempt to fathom the unsearchable
mysteries of Chinese negotiations, so I will not venture
any further opinions on the subject, but leave the reader
to draw his own inferences, after stating the facts within
my knowledge.
After these singular interrogatories, the Governor-


248 PE HT ANG DESCRIBED.
General remarked that, as the Imperial Commissioners
had not yet reached Peking, and the treaty could not be
exchanged until they came, he wished to know where
the Minister preferred to wait until that time, offering
voluntarily to obtain the necessary orders for him to
remain in Peking if he desired, as he had no doubt of
Kweiliang's arrival within the month. During the meet-
ing, he introduced a stout officer, who, the moment he
began to speak, was recognized as the spokesman on the
jetty at the Taku forts, the day previous to the battle,
and he was now brought forward to explain that he had
there given correct information in all that he had stated.
Late in the evening the Toey-wan returned, with the
Legation, to her anchorage near the Powhatan.
The town of Pehtang gives its name to the river which
flows north of it, a stream in size and appearance similar
to the Pei-ho. It lies on the coast, about six miles above
Taku, and, from the numerous junks at its jetties, and
the docks for building them, it must possess a large trade.
The population is reckoned to be over 30,000, including
the people of a few adjacent hamlets. They mostly dwell
in houses made of the soil, a tenacious mud, that needs
to be strengthened with millet stalks when made into
walls. Whether from the saltness of the soil, or other
causes, almost no grass or grain, trees, or anything green,
are seen near the place.
On the 10th, the Toey-wan was sent in shore to tow
out to the ship two junks, which were seen struggling
against the strong tide toward us, and when they arrived
they were found to contain another supply of provisions,
sent by the Governor as a further proof of his friendly
generosity.
On the 11th, the English and French forces were with-


GENERAL MOU R A VIEFF. 249
drawn from the Gulf, leaving only one small steam sloop
and a gun-boat, the Minister having sailed for Shanghai
on the 6th. The two vessels that were left came the next
day and anchored near us for a few hours, and then sailed
for Chee-fou, a small port on the western shore of the
Gulf, where there were one or two English opium-ships
stationed, and where good water and provisions could be
procured. On this day, also, a junk came out from the
river to request that the Toey-wan might be sent in on
the 13th, to convey to the Minister the answer from the
Emperor relative to his being allowed to visit the Capital,
and asking, at the same time, that a medical officer should
be sent to examine the two English prisoners who had
been captured during the attack upon the forts, toward
whom their captors felt a good deal as the man did who
had won an elephant in a raffle. They were both suffer-
ing from the effects of the climate, and the confinement
to which they had been subjected.
On the 14th the Russian steamer America arrived
from the Amoor River, and anchored near us, having on
board General Mouravieff, the Governor-General of Eastern
Siberia, and a Caucasian Prince, who was in the service
of the Russian Government. Visits and salutes were
exchanged between the General and our Flag-officer, and
the most friendly relations at once established. The
Toey-wan returned from Pehtang with more provisions,
and a letter from the Governor-General of the Province
informing Minister Ward that he had received orders to
escort him to Peking, and that the necessary arrange-
ments for his journey would be completed in time for him
to start on the 20th, if he desired to do so.
On the 15th the Toey-wan conveyed into the entrance
of the river General Mouravieff and the Caucasian Prince,


250 MR. WARD's Escort.
who was sent to Peking as bearer of despatches to the
Russian Minister then residing in the city.
16th-The Toey-wan returned with a junk in tow, on
board of which were two Mandarins, entrusted with an-
other important communication from Hangfuh, relative
to the preliminaries of the Minister's journey to Peking—
a wrong interpretation of which created terrible conster-
nation on board for an hour or so, as it gave out that, in
consequence of the Emperor's acquaintance with the fact
that two hundred Americans had landed to assist in the
attack at Taku, the Minister could not be permitted to
visit the capital. Upon referring the document, how-
ever, to another interpreter, it was found to state that
every preparation would be made for his comfortable con-
veyance, under a suitable escort, and information was
solicited as to the number of persons he desired to accom-
pany him. This put an entirely different face upon the
matter, and caused a degree of elation corresponding to
the deep dejection and disappointment visible in every
countenance before; feeling now that the penance we
had been enduring in this wretched Gulf during the last
month, was to be rewarded by success in the object with
which it was undertaken.
The Governor-General informed Mr. Ward that he had
appointed Tsunghau, a Manchu civilian, holding the office
of superintendent of transportation, and a brevet commis-
sioner of the gabelle, with Chang Pingtoh, a Chinese
Colonel in the army, with the brevet rank of General, to
be his escort. Associated with them was Li, a sub-prefect,
and others still lower in rank, in all amounting to nearly
twenty officials above the seventh grade.
Mr. Ward accordingly appointed the 20th of July as
the day for starting, and mentioned that the number of


PR EPA RING FOR T H E J O U R N E Y. 251
his party would be twenty persons. Flag-officer Tattnall
at first intended to go, but his health compelled him to
decline the journey. The same cause deprived me of the
opportunity I had so long coveted, of visiting the capital
of the most populous empire in the world; and I am now
compelled to draw from other sources the information
herein contained relative to the experience of the Em-
bassy, relying mostly upon the account published by
S. Wells Williams, LL.D., and read before the North
China branch of the Royal Asiatic Society, October
25th, 1859; Dr. W., it will be remembered, having been
the principal interpreter, and one of the Secretaries, to
the Embassy.
All was now bustle and confusion on board the Pow-
hatan, the wants of the twenty “Peking-ites,” in making
preparations for their contemplated journey, bringing into
requisition the combined services of a large portion of
those who were necessarily resigned to the stupidities of
another month's sojourn at our solitary anchorage, and
furnishing an inexhaustible source of raillery among the
less dignified portion of the travellers, as to the proba-
bilities of the imprisonment or decapitation of the whole
party, on their arrival at the Imperial City. Carpet-
bags, trunks, and overcoats, which had not seen the light
of day for many months, were summarily hauled out of
their hiding-places, and filled to repletion with every im-
aginable article that might be wanted during the journey.
Revolvers were loaded and placed in their belts, to be
buckled on, in the event of a treacherous attack, and
baskets and boxes filled with plates, knives, and forks,
etc., not forgetting a reasonable supply of such fluids as
might be necessary to “sustain the inner man" under all
22


252 THE AMERICAN E M BASS Y.
the trials of muscle and patience which they might natu-
rally expect to encounter.
By dint of untiring perseverance, the party was pre-
pared to leave the ship by the afternoon of the 19th; and
as they were about starting in the Toey-wan, the Russian
steamer “America" fired a salute of fifteen guns, as a
farewell compliment to our Minister—His Excellency
General Mouravieff having previously gone on board to
take leave of him, and hand him a letter for General
Ignatieff, the Russian Minister at Peking.
The persons composing the Embassy were as follows:
His Excellency John E. Ward, Envoy Extraordinary
and Minister Plenipotentiary.
Dr. S. Wells Williams, W. Wallace Ward, Secretaries
to the Legation.
Rev. W. A. P. Martin, Rev. Wm. Aitchison, Assistant
Interpreters.
Lieut. S. D. Trenchard, Flag-Lieutenant.
John L. Fox, Surgeon (temporarily attached to the
Powhatan). -
B. F. Gallaher, Purser.
Lieut. A. W. Habersham.
William H. Shock, Chief Engineer.
A. S. Taylor, Captain of Marines.
Henry Wood, Chaplain.
John W. Sandford, Jr., Asst. Surgeon.
George W. Heard, Esq., John L. Lurman, Attachés.
John Allmand, Secretary to Flag-officer Tattnall.
In addition to these officials, three Marines accompa-
nied the Embassy as orderlies to the Minister, and ten
Chinese servants were taken to attend upon the party,
among whom was an excellent cook, whose services were
found to be essential to comfort.


SCENERY NEAR PEKING. 255
about twelve miles from Peking. It contains about
400,000 inhabitants, and has a handsome pagoda, which
forms a conspicuous object in the approach to the city.
Two tributaries flow into the Pei-ho near this place, and
goods intended for the capital are landed here. Boats.
were seen extending in one unbroken mass, nearly three
miles beyond the landing, and numerous grain junks
were anchored below. -
Carriages were here provided to convey the party to
Peking next morning, but the stone road was so broken
up, that a majority of them preferred riding on horse-
back or walking. The escort used the same style of
vehicle as the Embassy, and they were the best the
country afforded; no attempt was made to get sedans
after leaving Pehtang. The country on either side of the
road was well cultivated, but the fields and farmsteads,
the mausolea, the public pavilions, and the temples, ex-
hibited the same features of decay and neglect observable
in the road itself. Well-built shops were seen, however,
bordering the northern end of the road for half a mile
before reaching the Chdu-ydng Mun, or Morning Sun
Gate; their size and gilded exterior presenting a re-
markable contrast to the mean continuation of the same
avenue within the gate. Several fine honorary gateways
added to the appearance of the row, but the wretched
road took away all appreciation of their elegance.
The wall of the city near this gate is in good order,
rising about sixty feet, and the five-storied guard-house
over it nearly forty more; they presented altogether an
imposing appearance, but not a man was seen in or upon
them, nor any cannon. The avenue within is over a
hundred feet wide, and unpaved, and the centre of it, in
consequence of the recent rain, was now a quagmire,
22 * R


256 T H E CAPITAL OF CHINA.
through which horses, carriages, and drivers floundered
in great confusion. The scene was disappointing to all
who had entertained high expectations of the glory of the
metropolis of China; yet the vast crowds of men, women,
and children, standing in dense multitudes in front of the
houses, and lining the sides of the carriage-way in an un-
broken row, most of them well dressed in white or blue
garments, together with the yellow-tiled temples, hono-
rary gateways, and shops ornamented with pillars and
fancy sign-boards, rendered it an interesting and ani-
mated sight. The house prepared for the Embassy was
situated in the old or Manchu portion of the city, about
half a league from the gate, in 13th Street, and the
neighborhood of Lau-kiun-táng. These quarters for-
merly belonged to the Prime Minister, Saishanga, and
were confiscated on his disgrace in 1852. They con-
tained altogether nineteen rooms, with intervening court-
yards; the buildings were of one story, and the apart-
ments plainly furnished. It was reported that the
quarters fitted up for the English and French Legations
were other palaces which had also belonged to this
grandee.
The next day the Imperial Commissioners, who had
reached the city on the 20th, were informed that the
American Minister had arrived, and was ready to confer
with them. It was deemed by Mr. Ward to be only a
suitable mark of respect to the Chinese government, that
until he had seen the Commissioners, the members of his
suite should not go abroad. The letters for the Russian
Legation were sent, and an acknowledgment from them
received the same evening. -
Sieh, the provincial judge of Kiangsti, whom we had
met before as the Taoutai of Shanghai, and who had been


VISIT TO THE IMPERIA L CITA DEL. 257
appointed secretary to the Commissioners, Kweiliang and
Hwashana, on account of his experience in treating with
foreigners, now came to confer with Mr. Ward respecting
the meeting with Kweiliang, and to speak of the pre-
sentation to the Emperor. He is a man of talent and
craft, and the effect of the late victory was apparent in
his altered bearing. He stated, that in consequence of
the part taken by the Toey-wan, on the 25th ult, the
Emperor was in some doubt respecting the peaceful pro-
fessions of the Americans; and their movements on that
day gave force to the hostile expressions used last year
in one of Mr. Reed's dispatches, in which he spoke of
being forced to join the Allies. The remark furnished an
opportunity to state precisely what was done by Flag-
officer Tattnall on that day, why the tender was there,
and that though the Toey-wan had towed boats in and
out, she had not landed a man, nor fired a gun. The
impression had got abroad among the people, that the
men in the boats she had towed into action were Ameri-
cans; derived from the report of one of the English
prisoners, who declared himself an American, and asserted
that he had landed from those boats.
The next day after this visit, Mr. Ward, attended by
three of his suite, repaired on horseback to the Kid-
hingsz', near the Hwang-ching, or Imperial Citadel,
which surrounds the walled inclosure called the For-
bidden City, in which the Imperial family lives. He was
there met by the Commissioners, attended by about a
hundred officials of every shade of button, all dressed in
their easy summer costume, but none of them in full em-
broidery. The contrast between this meeting in the
capital of China, where not a soldier, nor an implement
of war was seen, nor even a musician, to the military


258 IMPERIA L TITLES.
parade which is common in European capitals and courts
on such occasions, illustrated the different usages, in these
particulars, in the governments at the east and west of
this vast continent.
Kweiliang opened the conversation by a full expression
of his feelings at the recent occurrences at Taku, and at
having been refused an interview at Shanghai by the
English and French Ministers, feeling, no doubt, that
some vindication of his own policy was required under
the circumstances. He was now in the presence of his
fellow-courtiers, many of whom were opposed to his
policy and watching for his fall; and from the free and
easy conduct of some of them, it was inferred that they
were of the Imperial household—an inference which was
afterward confirmed. -
It was some time before the Commissioners were ready
to enter upon the principal object of the interview. They
said that the Emperor wished to do honor to the Ameri-
can Minister, now that he had reached his capital, not
alone to exhibit his friendly feeling to him personally, but
to prove the respect he felt for the President; and there-
fore they had now only to discuss the mode and time for
an audience. In speaking of the President, they used
the terms, Ta Hwang-ti, or August Emperor, and Kiun-
chu, or princely ruler; they have also learned the word
President, but it is an awkward combination of unmean-
ing syllables in Chinese, and they seldom employed it.
These are great changes from former usages, and in
order to explain them, it will be well to refer briefly to
the views entertained by the Chinese respecting the posi-
tion of their Sovereign. They suppose that all the human
race has been placed under the authority of one head by
superior Powers. These Powers, included under the


260 THE “KoTAU.”
as a reception at Court would be to China herself, he could
not kneel when he came before the throne, for he never
saluted his own ruler in that manner, nor did the repre-
sentatives of the United States kneel when they came
into the presence of any sovereign on the earth. To kneel
was, in his view, entirely a religious act, and he did so
only in the presence of God. The treaty itself made no
mention of an audience, he had not asked it; and now
that they had spoken of it, he wished to state what his
views on the point were, remarking that in other particu-
lars he was ready to conform to the etiquette of the
Chinese Court, when it was made known to him.
The Chinese were asked if they would willingly degrade
their-country abroad by doing anything derogatory to
its honor, or in violation of their conscience; but as their
conscience did not oppose these prostrations, and there
was no immediate prospect of their going abroad, they un-
hesitatingly answered, that they would perform the Kotau,
and do whatever else was required of them at an audi-
ence in Washington, they would even burn incense before
the President if asked to do so. The judge added, “If
we do not kneel before the Emperor, we do not show him
any respect; it is that or nothing, and is the same rever-
ence that we pay to the gods.”
The Kotau consists of three kneelings and nine knock-
ings of the head on the floor, but the considerate judge
suggested that Mr. Ward would be let off with one kneel-
ing and three knockings, as he represented a friendly
power. Hwashana remarked to Mr. Ward, “You are a
plenipotentiary, you have full powers, and can certainly
do such an act,” to which he replied, “I am not invested
with powers sufficient to enable me to change the laws


CUSTOM'S OF GOVERNMENT OFFICIALs. 261
and usages of my country, and can do nothing to de-
grade it.”
The first interview on this momentous subject con-
cluded with a sumptuous repast, gotten up partly in
foreign style, with table cloth, knives, silver forks, and
napkins, which was quite unexpected, as an incidental
evidence of the preparations which had been made to
entertain the foreigners in Peking. While at table Mr.
Ward requested that horses might be sent to the Lega-
tion for members of his suite to take exercise; but Kwei-
liang replied, that as soon as the audience had taken
place, everything in the city and suburbs would be shown
to them with the utmost pleasure.
Mr. Ward's visit was returned on the 2d of August, at
the house of the Legation, by the Commissioners, who
came in the same sort of carriages that had been furnished
the Embassy on its journey. There was no military
escort, and no parade in the dress or number of attend-
ants upon the Prime Minister; it was a plain visit, charac-
teristic of the little display usually seen among high
Chinese officers, and, so far as is known, was the first one
made by the Prime Minister within the capital, to a
Western Embassador.
The subject of the audience was immediately brought
forward, and after much of the same ground which had
been discussed in the former interview had been gone
over again, it was requested, in order to bring the matter
to a point, that Mr. Ward should send the Commissioners
a communication, describing the ceremony he was willing
to perform. He complied by stating that he would bow
very low before the Emperor, more than once if he
wished; he would stand uncovered, and not turn his back
while in his presence; but he would not kneel or make


262 DEBATE ON COURT ETIQUETTE.
the Kotau. Instead of the word bow, they wished to in-
sert in the draft the phrase, “bend the right knee
slightly, and still stand; ” but this too was considered in-
admissible, after what had been said relative to the re-
ligious nature of the ceremony performed by native
officials. They also urged that ministers at European
courts were required to kneel at an audience with the
sovereigns, citing the Pope especially as requiring that
ceremony; but explanations were made to correct their
erroneous impressions on this point. They remained un-
satisfied, however, that such was not the case, and con-
cluded this conference, which lasted five hours, by say-
ing that they must report to His Majesty that the customs
of the two countries were so unlike, it was better that no
audience took place, much as he desired to do honor to
the American nation in its representative. They had
conducted their argument with patience and candor, and
exhausted every fact and reason they had for its support,
feeling that the debate was an important one, and the
precedent now given could never be exceeded on future
occasions; they were ready to give up their claims to
supremacy over foreign ministers, but were unwilling to
concede an audience to them with less than was required
by European sovereigns.
It was agreed at this time, on Mr. Ward's proposal,
that the business which had brought the Legation to the
capital should be finished so that it could return to Peh-
tang on the 11th, and the Commissioners disclaimed all
restraint upon its movements. They said that they had
placed policemen in the neighborhood of the quarters
occupied by the Legation, to restrain the crowd which
would otherwise throng; but there was no possible
reason for preventing a few peaceable foreigners from


A COM P R O M IS E. . 263
going where they pleased. They were apparently appre-
hensive, however, of some untoward collusion between
the Russians and the Americans, if free intercourse was
allowed, judging from the many questions Sieh asked
about the dispatches sent to the Russian Minister, and
from the detention for six days of the answers. The
Chinese consider it beneath the dignity of the members
of a diplomatic embassy to concern themselves about the
trivialities of trade, at least until the chief has had his
audience.
The wily judge now unexpectedly appeared with
agitated mien, to suggest a plan of compromise on the
audience question, which all the Chinese thought would
succeed. This was that the Commissioners should address
Mr. Ward a letter, stating that, as the Emperor had de-
cided to grant him an audience, it was necessary before-
hand that he should state to them what form of obeisance
he would make in coming before the throne, and they
would then make the necessary arrangements. He need
only reply to this, that when he delivered the President's
letter to His Majesty, he would render him every mark
of respectful deference which he did to the President,
without addition or diminution. The draft of the reply
which was furnished to the judge was perfectly satis-
factory, although it did not cover the undecided question
of kneeling at European courts; and he went through the
details of the presentation in the most confident and
cheerful manner, remarking that it would probably take
place on the following Monday (August 8th.) The par-
ticular compromise which had been contrived between
Chinese court ceremonial, and the obduracy of republican
independence, consisted in placing the table, on which the
President's letter was to be laid, before the throne in such
23


264 THE EMPEROR'S DEGISION.
a manner that its embroidered cover would conceal most
of the person of the Minister. As he approached it, he
should then bow as low as he had already proposed, and
a chamberlain would approach on either side as if to
raise him up, crying out, “Don’t kneel !” Those of his
suite presented with him would then go through the same
ceremony, after which he would respectfully present the
letter by placing it on the table, from whence it would
be taken by another courtier, who on his knees would
hand it to the Emperor. In this singular manner was the
character of the sovereign to be saved, in the eyes of his
officers, by the Embassador being restrained, as it were,
from completing a prostration which was not intended te
take place. -
This unexpected concession of the whole point was
supposed to be chiefly due to the personal wish of the
Emperor to see the foreigners himself, co-operating with
the well-known desire of Kweiliang and Hwashana for
the audience on political grounds; and when Sieh left the
house of legation, with the drafts of the two papers to be
submitted to the Privy Council, he seemed to have no
doubt that the matter would be satisfactorily arranged.
The arrival of Kweiliang's dispatch was accordingly
anxiously looked for, but, instead of it, the judge himself
returned next day, more dispirited than ever with the in-
formation that affairs had taken another turn, and that
his motion had been outvoted. How much hand he had
in the matter himself, to get fame and promotion by his
skilful diplomacy of a delicate question, is a point which
admits some discussion. His Majesty's decision now was,
that, unless Mr. Ward would either actually touch one
knee, or the ends of his fingers, on the ground, he would


KWEILIANG's DILEMMA. 265
not admit him to court. Of course this was refused, and
the question of an audience finally decided in the negative.
The next dispatch from Kweiliang indicated his un-
pleasant hesitation. His view required, as the necessary
sequence of the arrival of an embassy at Peking, that its
chief should see the Emperor, and deliver his letter of
credence; but that chief had, in the present instance,
“firmly maintained his own opinion when consulted upon
the ceremonies to be observed at an audience;" and,
jumping to his inference, he then says, “we are quite at
a loss, therefore, to understand for what purpose your
excellency has come to Peking;” and concludes with the
dilemma, that “as the treaty of Tientsin must be ex-
changed somewhere, where is it to be?" The Minister
was at the capital, and nothing could be done officially
until he had seen His Majesty, which he declined to do,
and yet the treaty must be exchanged.
The answer recapitulated the circumstances under
which the American Minister had accepted the invitation
of the Commissioners at Shanghai to come to the capital,
and quoted the Imperial rescript made known to him by
Hangfuh, confirming that invitation. Mr. Ward then
proposed to deliver the President's letter to them, and
afterward to exchange the treaty. In their rejoinder,
the same difficulty was involved in their minds as in the
previous letter; for, as Mr. Ward would not see the
Emperor, so, neither would they receive the President's
letter; and this premise being granted, it would con-
sequently be still more unsuitable for the treaty to be ex-
changed in the city itself. These difficulties, singular as
they may appear to us, naturally grew out of the educa-
tion and notions of these officers respecting national
etiquette and the dignity of their sovereign. It is quite


266 MR. wa RTD's FIRM N Ess.
as well, perhaps, that this whole discussion took place
with the American Minister, who in his visit was left free
on one important point; for, not being ordered by his
government to see the Emperor, he was not anxious about
doing so.
A delay of thirty-six hours took place before answering
this communication, and the reply was ready when Judge
Sieh came in to learn the cause of the silence. The
Chinese were now apprehensive that the President would
be displeased at the non-reception of his Minister; and
Sieh suggested that if Mr. Ward would express a wish
for Kweiliang to receive the letter, it would be granted;
or, if he would say where, out of the metropolis, he pre-
ferred the treaty to be exchanged, his proposal would be
considered. Neither of these propositions was attended
to, but there was no objection to add to the reply then
ready to be sent, a disclaimer of want of respect to His
Majesty, and the expression of sincere regret that the
Minister had found himself unable to comply with the
ceremonies of an audience at his court; for if he should
fail of rendering him every mark of respect, not wholly
inconsistent with the laws and usages of his own country,
he would be rebuked by the President. This filled the
record to their satisfaction. The next day a copy of the
Imperial rescript, embodying the final decision of the
government, was furnished.
It gave a summary of the proceedings at Taku at the
time of the battle; and though it contained two or three
important errors, it proved that the authorities on the
coast had endeavored to open communications with the
Allied Plenipotentaries. It then proceeded: “At this
juncture, the American Envoy, John E. Ward, in com-
pliance with his engagements with Kweiliang, came to


A N IMPERIA L RES C R IPT. 267
Pehtang in his ship, requesting that he might go to Pe-
king, as he was the bearer of a letter from the President
of the United States. Our permission was accordingly
given for him to bring the letter up to the capital, where
he arrived with it. This day, the Ministers Kweiliang
and Hwashana have handed up the various dispatches re-
ceived from him for Our examination, and from them it is
clearly to be seen that his sentiments are exceedingly re-
spectful, and indicative of the utmost sincerity and
truthfulness. -
“Let the letter which the American Envoy has brought
be taken, and let Kweiliang and Hwashana be specially
appointed to receive it for transmission to Ourself. In
regard to the exchange of the treaty, it would be proper,
indeed, to return to Shanghai to do it; but when we re-
flect that the Envoy has already come over the seas for
this purpose, we now specially direct that the great seal
be affixed to the treaty, and it be delivered to Hangfuh,
the Governor-general, and let him exchange the ratifica-
tions with the American Minister at Pehtang. After this
has been done, let lasting friendship and commerce con-
tinue between the two nations. This will show forth Our
great regard and kindness to people from afar, and clearly
exhibit the deep respect we entertain for truth and
justice. This from the Emperor.” -
In their note enclosing the above, the Commissioners
appointed the hour for receiving the President's letter,
and informed Mr. Ward that his escort would be ready
on the 11th, as had been previously agreed. They then
happily observed: “Hereafter we will cherish the same
feelings of respectful regard toward the President, which
you have now made known toward our own Emperor; and
let these sentiments be the expression of the friendly re-
23 +


268 RETURN OF THE EMBASS Y.
lations which shall hereafter exist between our respective
nations.” -
Matters were now drawing to a conclusion, and on the
10th the letter was received by Kweiliang. He took the
box as it was brought in, lifting it to his head as he de-
livered it to an attendant to place on the table. He then
informed Mr. Ward that the functions of himself and
Hwashana, as Plenipotentaries, ceased with that inter-
view, and they should soon render back their seal to His
Majesty. Chosen, doubtless, for their well-known ability,
these two men were appointed to negotiate at a critical
period in the history of their country; and while we are
able to judge the value of their concessions, we are not so
able to estimate the obstacles they may have had to over-
come in reaching them; and they are still less in a good
position fully to appreciate all their results. We are
probably more disposed to be strict in our judgment of
their errors and failings than to consider the misconcep-
tions and disadvantages under which they have been
nurtured, and the ignorance they are in of their own true
interests.
Preparations were made for departure the next morn-
ing. Two convenient mule-litters were furnished for Dr.
Sandford and Mr. Aitchison, who were too ill to ride in
carriages. Letters were received from the Russian
Minister, but no personal intercourse took place with any
member of that Legation. While the Embassy was in
Peking, the Chinese officials left its members to the quiet
observance of the Sabbath, on which days public services
were conducted by Chaplain Wood.
A few tradesmen brought their wares at various times
for inspection. The state of currency at the capital is
deplorably bad, and much of the traffic is carried on with


ARRIVAL of THE “To EY - w AN.” 271
though he was born in territory adjoining the United
States, and not in England. The Chinese were also in-
formed that he would not be demanded of them if he had
been. They were in some perplexity when they ascer-
tained that he was an English subject, but after hearing
all the points of the case, concluded to deliver him to Mr.
Ward entirely on the ground of humanity, as he had con-
sented to receive him only on these terms. This man
and his fellow-prisoner had been well treated by the
Chinese, but they were both ill at this time.
The three officers constituting the escort, Tsunghau,
Chang, and Li, came on board in the evening to take
leave of the Minister. The first had won the good opin-
ion of all from the day they started, by his gentlemanly
bearing and unremitted efforts to render the journey
agreeable.
The next day the Toey-wan returned to the outer
anchorage, four weeks after her passengers had landed
at Pehtang. Her arrival was hailed by Flag-officer Tatt-
nall and his officers, as a relief from the monotony of their
anchorage, and on the evening of the 18th the Powhatan
sailed for Shanghai, with the Toey-wan in tow.
The unusual quiet experienced by those who remained
on board the ship during the absence of the Embassy,
was most highly appreciated, notwithstanding the mo-
notony and the failing supply of fresh provisions. The
Russian steamer America sailed for Japan on the 22d of
July, and on the same day, we got under way and stood
directly out from the land until the depth of water in-
creased to seven fathoms, by which time it was about
twelve miles distant, no trace of it being visible. This
removal afforded sufficient excuse for the discontinuance
of the supplies, furnished up to this time, by the liberality
S


272 wANT of P Row Is Ions.
of the Governor-General, and no friendly junk was seen
approaching with the accustomed tribute of poultry, sheep,
and vegetables. Our chicken coops became tenantless,
and the last wretched inhabitant of the sheep-pen was
slaughtered not many days after the departure of the
Embassy. Resort was had with exultant confidence to
the store-room, feeling that as long as the hams held
out we were quite independent of the unfaithful junks,
but to our horror and dismay, it was ascertained that
only one small ham remained This was cooked at once
and sustained four tolerably hearty men a fortnight, by
which time we received a most opportune visit from the
Toey-wan, hailing her arrival as a certain source of re-
lief to our almost starving condition, and indulging the
confident hope that the Embassy was on board, as it had
now been absent more than three weeks. We were dis-
disappointed, however, in both particulars, as she had
come only to bring a letter from Mr. Ward, and our
inquiry concerning the more important subject to the
half-famished mess, was answered in the negative.
Learning afterwards, though, that there were two
sheep on board, an irresistible appeal was made to the
sympathies of the Captain, and he consented to kill one
of them, and present us with half; but he soon felt that
he had permitted his generosity to get the better of his
discretion, and endeavored to retrieve his error by bor-
rowing five pounds of sugar, of which we had an abund-
ant supply. We gladly relieved him from the painful
predicament in which his rash liberality had involved
him, and ourselves, at the same time, of the weight of
obligation under which we were suffering. The steamer
then left to resume her attendance upon the Minister,
and we managed to exist until her return to the ship on


I). RILLING THE CREW. 273
the 17th, when our coops were replenished with an ample
supply of the feathered tribe, to last to Shanghai.
The weather was excellent during nearly the whole of
the two months we spent in the Gulf, and the oppor-
tunity was improved to drill the crew in their exercises
at target-firing, boat service, and small arms. They were
marched and countermarched around the decks to the
sound of martial music, and presented so formidable an
aspect, that I doubt if five times their number of China-
men would have ventured to attack them on shore.


274 POLICY OF THE ALLIES.
CHA PTE R. XII.
Remarks on the Occurrences in the Gulf of Pecheelee – Arrival at
Woosung—Reply of the Emperor of China to the President's
letter—Sail for Nagasaki, with Minister Ward on board—Unique
suit of Armor–Accident to the Machinery—Sail for Kanagawa
—Yokuhama—Rapid growth of the latter place—Arrival at Yedo
—Description of the place—Police arrangements—Residences of
the hereditary Princes—Trade between Japan and Shanghai–
Sail for Hong-Kong—Arrival of the Hartford—Preparations for
the Embassy on board the Powhatan–Sail for Kanagawa.
THE course pursued by the representatives of the Allied
Powers in refusing to listen to the proposal of the Pehtang
route to Peking, and attempting to force their way up.
the Pei-ho, gave rise to considerable discussion among
the officers of the Powhatan—a small portion of them
contending that the Chinese had an indisputable right to
designate the route by which they should proceed to the
Capital, and to exclude them from the river with the large
escort of gun-boats which was to have attended them as
far as Tientsin. But a very slight acquaintance with the
character of that peculiar people would suffice to convince
any one that, if the Envoys had accepted this unexpected
proposal, it would have been regarded as an indication of
weakness or timidity, and presumed upon to make further
demands upon the spirit of concession thus manifested.
The American Minister could not decline to avail of the
opportunity offered him to reach the Capital by the route
indicated, because the treaty under which he was acting
made no mention of the place where the exchange of its


RE MARKS on CHINEs E CHARACTER. 275
ratification should occur, and no importance was attached
to the fact that the year, within which that ceremony
should have been performed, had already expired.
The last casus belli between the English and Chinese,
when sifted down to its original element, consists in no-
thing but the obstinate adherence of the latter nation to
its arrogant and exclusive policy, which causes it not only
to disregard the sacred obligations of treaties, but to treat
with haughty contempt the diplomatic agents accredited
to its government, for the advancement of the commercial
interests of the former. As soon as they are whipped
into a reasonable concession to the progressive spirit of
the age—to which they will be compelled, eventually, to
succumb entirely—they commence, by stealthy means, to
make redoubled efforts to undo all that superior military
prowess and intelligence has forced them to do, toward
placing themselves on terms of free and friendly inter-
course with the more enlightened and liberal nations of
the earth—for it has never been England's policy to ex-
clude other nations from the commercial advantages
accruing to herself through her foreign wars, at whatever
cost they might have been acquired.
The bone of contention still exists, and, to all appear-
ance, is not likely soon to be removed or destroyed, and
it is this which has placed England and the United States
in such opposite relations with the Chinese; she has done
the fighting and we have reaped the peaceful reward.
She could not, with due regard to present honor or future
interest, make the slightest concession to the presumptu-
ous arrogance or notorious duplicity of the infatuated
claimants of heavenly fraternity, while we, who have not
pretended to dispute their right to think as highly of them-
selves and their Emperor as they choose, and only require
24


276 FRUITS OF THE TREATY.
that whatsoever privilege they grant unto others shall also
be extended to us, can, without derogation to our pride or
sacrifice of interest, accept any rational or decent overture
they may make. Our treaty called for nothing which
the Chinese could not readily concede without humbling
their exclusive pride; and the false report made by the
English prisoners, relative to the landing of Americans
in the attack upon the forts, created so strong a suspicion
of our sincerity in professing to be their friends, that it
could not be eradicated up to the moment when the treaty
was exchanged at Pehtang. When the Embassy had re-
turned from Peking without the occurrence of a single
incident to foster this suspicion, and the beautiful box
was presented containing the treaty, which was itself
handsomely printed, and had a heavy silver case attached
to protect the seal, then the Mandarins realized that the
professions of respectful consideration that had been made
toward their government were not mere empty words of
diplomacy, to be taken in a Pickwickian sense.
All were gratified by the results of Mr. Ward's perse-
verance in effecting the exchange of the treaty, and felt
that, although it had been accomplished at some little
sacrifice of national and ministerial pride, the evident
anxiety of the Mandarins to cultivate friendly relations
with him after the catastrophe at Taku, and the absence
of any stipulation in the Treaty of Tientsin requiring the
exchange to take place at the Capital, constrained him to
accept the Emperor's proposal to perform that ceremony
at Pehtang. The beneficial operation of the treaty was
soon felt upon American commerce, and the English lost
no time in demanding the extension of all its privileges
and immunities to theirs, under the “most favored nation"
clause of former treaties. -


REPLY To THE PRESIDENT's LETTER. 277
We reached the anchorage.near Woosung, at meridian,
on the 22d of August, and the Minister and his suite,
with the Flag-officer, went immediately to Shanghai in
the Toey-wan, the former receiving a parting salute of
seventeen guns, as his official connection with the Pow-
hatan terminated with the return of the Embassy from
Peking.
The steam-frigate Mississippi had returned from Japan,
whither she had been sent to convey Minister Harris
from Simoda to Yedo, as the latter city had become, on
the 4th of July preceding, the official residence of the
diplomatic representatives of the nations having treaties
with the Empire, and the former was to be closed at the
expiration of six months from that date. The officers
and men belonging to the Powhatan, who had been de-
tailed for temporary service on board the Toey-wan, were
now returned to the ship, and others furnished that vessel
from the Mississippi, preparatory to sailing for Hong
Kong, where the chartered steamer was restored to her
owners early in September.
On the 9th of September the reply to the President's
letter to the Emperor of China was received at Shanghai,
having been delivered to Mr. Ward, at the American
consulate, with great pomp and ceremony, by the Taoutai
of the city. The Imperial document was enveloped in a
cumbrous roll of yellow silk, the shape and dimensions
of which gave it very much the appearance of a fat baby
in swathing bands. It is presumed that this precious
manifesto. from the hands of the august Bombastes Fu-
rioso of Peking, has been carefully filed away in a sepa-
rate room of the State Department, and that it will be
guarded with the paternal solicitude which its peculiar
form so forcibly suggests.


278 DISPATCHES FROM NAVY DEPARTMENT.
By the mail steamer which reached Shanghai on the
15th of September, Flag-officer Tattnall received informa-
tion from the Navy Department, that the steamer Hart-
ford had sailed from the United States for Hong Kong
with Flag-officer C. K. Stribling on board, appointed to
relieve him in the command of the East India squadron;
but the same mail brought, also, a communication author-
izing him to return to the United States via Cape Horn,
touching at Yedo, for the purpose of affording a passage
to the Japanese Embassy as far as Panama on their route
to this country. Although there was nothing in this
document which could be construed into an order to re-
turn by the route indicated, or to detain the ship on the
station until the time appointed for the embarkation of
the Embassy (the 22d of February, 1860), Flag-officer
Tattnall did not hesitate to assume the responsibility of
adopting this course, or of incurring the expenses attend-
ing the accommodation of so large an accession to the
number of persons on board the ship. As there was some
uncertainty, however, as to whether the Japanese Govern-
ment would not finally conclude to defer sending an
Embassy to the United States some months longer, and
the Flag-officer desired to communicate with our Minis-
ter at Yedo on the subject as early as practicable, the
ship was prepared for sea with all dispatch.
As Mr. Ward was enjoying a brief respite from the
duties of his official position, he determined to embrace
the opportunity offered him through the kind invitation
of the Flag-officer, to catch a hasty glimpse of the beau-
tiful country and the interesting people of whom he had
heard such glowing accounts from the officers of the ship.
With this pleasing prospect in view, he came on board,
attended by his suite, on the 17th, and the next morning


QUICK PASSAGE TO NAGASA KI. , 279
we got under way to make our fourth visit to the glorious
harbor of Nagasaki.
The passage across the confluent waters of the Yellow
and Japan Seas to the picturesque Island of Kiu-siu, was
accomplished in three days, against a strong north-easterly
wind and a heavy sea, the distance run being about 500
miles, and the passing hours marked alone by the heaving
of the log, as each recurring sound of the sometimes too
faithful bell reminded the watchmen of the deck that note
must be taken of our trackless course and speed.
We remained only one day at anchor at Nagasaki on
this occasion, all being anxious to reach the Imperial city
of Yedo, which had not yet been visited by any of those
on board. The sloop-of-war Germantown was found at
anchor here, and we received dreadful accounts from her
officers, of the annoyances to which they were subjected
by the unsettled state of the currency on shore; the small
amount of native coin they were allowed at the Custom-
house in exchange for their Mexican dollars, by no means
enabling them to gratify their desire for the more curious
and beautiful productions of the country. The Minis-
terial party made the best use of the brief space allowed
them to inspect the numerous objects of interest in and
near the city, rushing wildly from the Bazaars to the
temples, tea and bath-houses, buying an infinite variety
of curious and beautiful things, asking endless questions,
and admiring vastly the pleasing contrast between the
neatness, cleanliness, and system which everywhere pre-
vailed, and the jumbled-up filthiness and irregularity ex-
isting in Chinese towns. They were all impressed with
the striking natural beauties of the bay and harbor, as
well as the splendid scenery in the immediate vicinity,
and charmed to get away from the heat and ennui of the
24 +


280 A CCID ENT TO T H E M A C H IN E R Y.
fever and ague season at Shanghai, to the bracing and
exhilirating atmosphere of these magnificent hills.
The weather looked rather threatening on the evening
of the 22d of September, heavy clouds hanging gloomily
around the summits of the hills, and dropping in palpable
mist their load of moisture; but heedless of their por-
tentous aspect, we bade a reluctant adieu to our old ac-
quaintances, who had evinced great pleasure at our return
among them, and steamed out into the impenetrable
gloom and darkness which hung over the face of the
deep. It continued extremely dark and rainy during the
night, and as we approached Van Dieman's strait, it was
found prudent to await the return of daylight before
venturing through this narrow passage to the open sea
beyond. For this purpose, the ship was run off from the
coast at slow speed for a few hours, and then back in an
opposite direction until daylight, about which time it was
discovered that the crank-pin of the port engine had
broken, an accident which rendered necessary our im-
mediate return to Nagasaki. The disabled engine was
disconnected immediately, and we steamed back to the
harbor, now distant about 90 miles, using only the star-
board one, with which such slow progress was made, that
we did not reach the anchorage until the morning of
the 25th.
Four days were occupied in repairing the machinery,
during which a more favorable opportunity was afforded
our passengers to see the lions of the place. While
ashore on one occasion, I was accosted in the street by
my Chinese servant, who approached with a mysterious
air, and requested me to follow him to the residence of
one of his countrymen, who had an article for sale, the
like of which had never been seen by any one out of


J A PAN ES E A R MOR. 281
Japan. Yielding with natural curiosity to this singular
request, I was led into the small upper-room of a rickety
wooden tenement, situated in one of the most obscure
streets of the town, where I found an old Chinaman
seated upon the floor, and surrounded by boxes and
trunks. My entrance was at once understood by the old
man to intimate a desire to examine the rare and
wonderful article so artfully concealed; and opening one
of his numerous trunks, he displayed the body, sleeves,
and gauntlets of a rich and curiously wrought suit of
armor. While I was engaged in the inspection of this
truly wonderful specimen of Japanese art, the old man
drew forth from another trunk the remainder of the
dress, consisting of a pair of trowsers, and leggings, with
a heavy helmet made of thin lacquered copper, and bound
together at the joints with a metal resembling gold. The
body of the suit was made of figured buckskin, and
covered with thin plates of copper, shining with a pur-
plish brown lacquer, attached to which were stripes of
the same metal, hung together by blue silk braid, and
forming the skirt of the dress, which extended two feet
below the body. The sleeves and gauntlets were of buck-
skin also, covered with a net-work of steel rings, except
on the fore-arm and back of the hand, where there was a
plate of copper polished like all the rest. The leggings
were made in the same manner; and in addition to the
helmet, there was a brightly polished black vizor, the
upper lip of which was adorned with a ferocious-looking
gray moustache. Inquiring the price of the suit, I was
informed by this worthy son of the money-loving race of
the east, that it could not be purchased for less than
$1400, protesting that all the yellow ornaments, bands,
and rings upon it were of pure gold, and that it had once


282 A COSTLY PURCH AS E.
belonged to the grandfather of the reigning Emperor of
Japan | The old Emperor, he assured me, had been de-
throned and reduced to indigence by his rebellious son,
compelling him to resort to the “old clo' man,” for the
means of procuring the staff of life, which in Japan means
rice. I was earnestly besought not to reveal the secret of
his being in possession of so sacred a vestment, lest the
Governor of the place should hear of it, and have his head
taken off immediately, which he assured me would be the
consequence of his rashness in exposing it for my inspec-
tion, unless I would promise not to divulge his secret.
Having no idea of spending a year's pay for such a suit of
clothes, notwithstanding its Imperial richness and associa-
tions, I made the desired promise and turned to leave,
when the old man stopped me to inquire if he might have
the privilege of bringing his treasure on board the ship, to
exhibit it to the Minister, in whom he evidently expected
to find a purchaser. This request was also granted, and
he was soon on board the ship with his trunks; Mr.Ward
examined the armor, and offered the old man just one-
seventh of the price he demanded for it, which, after a
little hesitation, was accepted with evident satisfaction.
Mr. Ward immediately offered it as a present to Flag-
officer Tattnall, but he declined the handsome gift, say-
ing, at the same time, that he would bring it home and
deposit it in one of the public institutions of Georgia, the
native state of both these distinguished gentlemen, in
token of their united amor patriae.
The Governor of the city came on board on the 29th to
pay his respects to our Minister to China. He was re-
ceived with the usual honors, and paid quite a lengthy
visit, upon the conclusion of which, the repairs upon the
engine having been completed, we got under way again


REACH K.A.N.A.G.A. W. A. 283
for Kanagawa, feeling now quite assured that the ill-luck
which had attended our former effort to reach that place
was to be requited by a prosperous and pleasant passage.
This somewhat presumptuous confidence was soon dashed
with a momentary shudder of dread, though, as every
one felt the ship strike heavily upon a sunken rock while
in the act of turning her head toward the entrance of the
harbor. The tide was unusually low, and the depth of
water on this rock (the position of which was not pre-
viously known to any one on board,) had been so reduced
that, although the ship had frequently passed over the
same spot without touching, she now struck against it
with considerable force. Fortunately, she was not going
very rapidly at the time, and only the solid wood of the
stem came in contact with the rock, or the consequences
might have involved a longer stay in Japan than we
either contemplated or desired. Satisfied that the ship
had sustained no material injury, we pursued our course
out of the bay, and reached Kanagawa after a pleasant
run of three days and a half, anchoring off Yokuhama,
on the opposite side of the bay of the latter name, upon
which both these towns are situated, on the morning of
the 3d of October.
Here we were greeted by our cordial friend, General
E. M. Dorr, United States Consul to Kanagawa, and
Lieutenant Commanding John M. Brooke, who had, in
the month of August preceding, been so unfortunate as
to lose the United States schooner Fenimore Cooper,
which vessel had been placed under his command several
months previously, to enable him to examine and re-sur-
vey the route between California and China. He had
succeeded in accomplishing the most important part of
his laborious duty, when a typhoon caught his little ves-


TEA-HOUSE ON THE TOKAID0,
OR GREAT HIGH WAY OF THE EMPIRE.
(FROM A NATIVE DRAWING...)





BAY OF YO KU H. A. M.A. 287
folds by an array of ornamented pins, large enough for
boarding-pikes, and their faces and necks powdered most
profusely; their dress consisting of silk gowns, in which
the most gaudy and brilliant colors predominated. In
front of them were placed lacquered boxes containing
tobacco and pipes, with which they regaled themselves
occasionally.
The town of Yokuhama is situated on the southern
shore of the bay, occupying a space of about a mile square
on the level ground between the beach and the marshes
in the rear, which extend nearly to the hills some two
miles distant. The bluff point which forms the south-
eastern headland of the bay, and is called Mandarin bluff,
slopes gradually down to this plain, and upward to the
range of hills stretching westward into the interior. The
rising tides fill the shallow estuary in the midst of the
marshes, so that boats of considerable size can float upon
its surface; and its width immediately at Yokuhama is
about fifty yards. A neat and substantial wooden bridge
has been thrown across this narrow arm of the bay, con-
necting with a long causeway formed of earth, and pro-
tected by stone sea-walls, which leads through the
shallows at the head of the bay to the high road over the
hills toward Kanagawa. Yokuhama may thus be com-
pletely isolated from the main land whenever the Japan-
ese choose to destroy this bridge; and for this reason our
shrewd and watchful Minister, Mr. Harris, has used
every effort to prevent American merchants from adopt-
ing that locality for the establishment of their com-
mercial houses. -
Kanagawa is immediately opposite to Yokuhama, the
bay at this point being about three miles wide, and the
southern portion of the town is built at the base of bold
25 T


288 THE “To KAIDo.”
and precipitous heights, approaching so near the water
as to leave space for only one narrow street between
them, and this is called the Tokaido, being the great
highway which extends from one end of the Empire to
the other. Over this road pass semi-annually the great
pageants presented by the travelling equipages of the
Damios or hereditary Princes, who are compelled to leave
their families in Yedo during the half-year they are per-
mitted to devote to the cultivation of their immense
estates, and the government of their provinces.
A wide valley runs up between the heights referred to
and the hills which form the north-eastern shore of the
bay, terminating in the headland called “Wooded bluff,”
on the charts. The town spreads over a large portion
of this extended plain, and contains a population of about
200,000. The treaty concluded with Mr. Harris opened
this port to foreign commerce, but the Japanese, for some
reason of their own, seem to have offered every induce-
ment to merchants who engaged in business in the
country immediately after the treaty went into operation,
to settle on the Yokuhama side of the bay, by building
stores, dwellings, piers, bridges and a Custom-house, to
facilitate trade and accommodate the merchants. The
apparent anxiety of the government to prevent the settle-
ment of foreigners at Kanagawa, created the suspicion in
Mr. Harris' mind that it was designed to make a second
Desima of Yokuhama by restricting the foreigners to that
insular locality; and he immediately offered a decided but
respectful protest against his countrymen establishing
themselves there, contending that the treaty designated
the former place as the port for the operations of com-
merce, and that if they accepted the latter, the Japanese
would have reasonable ground for future complaint that


AM ERICANS AT YOK U HA M.A. 289
the terms of the treaty had been disregarded, and, there-
fore, the claim to settle at Kanagawa had been forfeited.
Besides, if at any time a difficulty should arise between
Japan and the United States, the residence of American
citizens in Yokuhama would place them completely in the
power of the native government, and subject them to any
indignities or injuries which that government might
either commit or instigate.
The superior natural advantages for trade existing at
Yokuhama overcame all the diplomatic arguments urged
by Mr. Harris, however; and the merchants have effected
such permanent arrangements for the prosecution of their
business at Yokuhama, that it will, doubtless, continue to
be their abode until some unforeseen occurrence removes
them from the country entirely. The greater depth of
water on the southern side of the bay, and the facilities
for conducting commercial operations, which have been
carried forward with Californian rapidity, offered in-
superable objections to the removal over the bay; and
even the threats of the Minister to have the merchants
ejected from the country unless they yielded to his argu-
ments and persuasions, have failed to produce the de-
sired result.
Finding that all his eloquent appeals to the merchants
only seemed to make them adhere with renewed per-
tinacity to their first choice of a location, the Minister
resorted to the more active expedient of requesting the
Japanese Government to refuse to Americans the lease
of ground upon which to erect their ware-houses and
dwellings; the result of which has been seriously detri-
mental to their personal and commercial interests, as,
since then, the other foreigners doing business in Yoku-
hama have secured all the most eligible building-lots;


SHIPPING AT YEDO. 291
from us; and three miles further toward the forts, which
were seen looming up in the western horizon, were three
Japanese steamers, a barque, and an ungainly, old-
fashioned hulk, built by native mechanics after the Dutch
model. Near these vessels was a large assemblage of
junks, anchored within half a mile of the forts, which are
five in number, and seem to spring out of the water as if
each was a separate island. They are built of hewn
stone laid without mortar or cement, each piece being
so formed as to fit closely in the space between those by
which it is surrounded; the walls are about fifteen feet
high, and are surmounted by a glacis of the same height,
upon which a low parapet wall is built; the few small
guns that were visible being mounted without embrasures
on the top of the glacis. -
Passing to the southward of the southernmost of this
range of forts, we pulled across the wide sheet of water
which separates them from the land, until we reached the
low stone wall extending along the front of the city, at a
point where the English flag was seen flying from a staff,
designating the residence of the Consul General of Great
Britain. We landed upon a narrow wooden jetty, thrown
out from the wall, and were instantly surrounded by a
large crowd of natives of all ages and both sexes, who re-
garded us with a curious but respectful gaze, and seemed
ready to offer any assistance they could render in
enabling us to reach the Minister's residence. Accept-
ing the services of two or three volunteers, to act as
guides and porters at the same time, we ascended the low
bank, and found ourselves on a wide, unpaved street
leading along the front of the city. The suburban city
of Sinagawa lay in full view to the southward, and a
beautiful eminence which stood nearly in front of us,
25 +


292 YEDO DESCRIBE D.
crowned with majestic trees, and covered with a smooth
green sward, suggested the apprehension that we had
landed at a greater distance from the populous portion
of Yedo than was either convenient or agreeable. We
wished, of course, to see as much of the place as possible,
but at the same time preferred taking it by easy stages,
to walking at the outset an indefinite distance through
muddy streets in the pitiless rain. Adjacent to the
eminence mentioned, stood a large and imposing temple
elevated considerably above the level of the street, and
removed from it some hundred yards, over the gateway
of which the English ensign was displayed from a tall
flag-staff. The houses fronting on the bay were placed
on the inner side of the street, and were of a style
similar to those of the other cities we had visited, with
the exception that many of them had a low upper story
with a narrow balcony extending along the front.
The streets and houses were thronged with people,
whose general appearance was decidedly more attractive
than that of any whom we had previously seen, the men
being more athletic, and the females of alighter complexion,
a rosy pair of cheeks occasionally appearing, to relieve the
monotonous tan which was so universal wherever we
had recently been, that at last we almost began to
doubt the fact of there being any other white people in
the world beside ourselves. After walking nearly two
miles through the irregular, unpaved streets, splashing
away in the mud and rain, and too much engrossed by
the thought of being in the Imperial city to heed such
temporary discomforts, we finally reached the gateway
of the temple, adjoining which stands the residence as-
signed by the Japanese Government to the U. S. Minister
Resident. The buildings are situated on a broad terrace


UN PRO PITIOUS WEATHER. 293
near the summit of a hill rising some two hundred feet
above the street, and surrounded by fine old trees, which
lend their cooling and romantic shade to the comfort and
picturesqueness of the spot. The ascent from the street
is easy and gradual, terminating in a short flight of
stone steps, over which the inner gateway is erected,
having huge and elaborately carved wooden doors. The
Minister's dwelling lies immediately on the right of the
temple, and is a large one-storied building, covering a
space of nearly a hundred feet square, the interior being
divided into numerous convenient apartments by the
usual sliding panels, or sashes, with paper as a substitute
for glass.
We found Mr. Harris' spacious accommodations already
occupied by the Minister to China and his suite, who had
preceded our party to the shore, but we were received with
impressive cordiality of manner, and hospitably assured
that there was ample room for all, and a hearty welcome
besides. The weather prohibiting any further indulgence
of our desire to explore the mysteries of the long-forbid-
den city that afternoon, we were all compelled to restrain
our curiosity until the following morning, hoping that a
favorable change would then enable us to gratify it; but
the pluvial god seemed to have availed of the darkness
of the night to bring into action all his reinforcements,
as the clouds poured down their deluging showers until
mid-day, and then only relented for a few moments, ap-
parently to tantalize us. Concluding, finally, that there
was no prospect of an early cessation of the rain, horses
were procured through the kindly assistance of Mr.
Huesken; and each attended by an active and bare-legged
groom, who seemed necessary appendages to the eques-
trian turn-out, we sallied forth in the pelting storm to


294 VISIT TO A SILK STORE.
see as much of the great city as possible during the short
remainder of our leave. The horses were not much
larger than Shetland ponies, and endowed with such an
inveterate propensity to kick at every animate object
within their reach, that the grooms had to exert all their
skill to keep them separated, as we galloped through the
muddy streets, plunging knee-deep into puddles and
quagmires, utterly regardless of the showers of the turbid
element with which we were bespattered. The sound of
our approach was the signal forageneral rush of the inmates
to the doors of the numberless shops passed in our course,
and the multitudes encountered in the streets stopped to
gaze in undisguised astonishment at the reckless dis-
turbers of their accustomed tranquillity; and when one of
our party would ever and anon cry out “Ohi-o,” it was
invariably answered by a simultaneous shout of mirthful
recognition from the crowd.
Following implicitly the guidance of the grooms, the
narrow and irregular streets in the vicinity of the Minis-
ter's residence were soon left behind, and we entered a
broad, smooth avenue, lined on each side with handsome
two-storied buildings, the lower floor receding some ten
feet from the front, and leaving a sheltered space under
the upper story for visitors to dismount and tether their
horses. Our guides took it for granted that the main
object of their transmundane employers was to expend
an indefinite amount of the tempting coin of which they
had seen specimens, and, accordingly, stopped us at one
of these buildings, which proved to be a silk store. Re-
moving our muddy boots before stepping on the nicely
matted floor, we were shown to the upper story, and
received there by several grave and dignified native
merchants, who spoke a word to the attendant youths,


296 BATHING -HOUSES OF YEDO.
learned that these gates were closed at night, so as to
prevent any communication with parts of the street lying
outside of the particular square thus enclosed; the police-
men and inhabitants of each square being held responsi-
ble for disorders occurring within their district, even
during absence. Near most of these gates or barriers,
tall ladders are placed, to enable the policemen to discover
the locality of fires when they occur, and, to sound the
alarm, a bell of ordinary size is attached to the upper
part of the ladder. Fire-proof houses were occasionally
seen, in which the valuables of the immediate neighbor-
hood are placed in case of fire. These are constructed of
unburnt brick, neatly plastered outside, and have iron
doors and shutters, being generally two stories high. In
the course of our ride we passed over two substantial
wooden bridges, having a span of seventy or eighty feet,
the joints or butts of the timbers being covered with
copper to exclude the dampness.
I did not have an opportunity of visiting any of the
public bathing-houses in Yedo, but I was informed that the
practice of promiscuousmingling of thesexes in those estab-
lishments which prevails in the southern ports, does not ob-
tain there to the same extent, a low partition dividing the
rooms occupied by males and females separately.
Having heard that the Japanese entertained a sort
of superstitious veneration for horned cattle, I was a
good deal surprised to see several yoke of oxen attached
to heavy, rudely constructed carts, with wooden wheels,
hauling loads of merchandise through the streets. Bul-
locks are principally used as pack-animals to carry heavy
burthens over the mountainous roads of the interior, but
horses are also used for this purpose, their feet being shod
with closely woven straw shoes or sandals, tied around


RESIDENCES OF THE ARISTO CRACY. 297
the pastern. These gouty contrivances do not last very
long, of course, but the attendant arriero always carries
an extra supply when undertaking a journey. Many of
these pack-horses were encountered in the streets of Yedo.
Various descriptions of the norimon were also seen, those
used by the lower orders being an extremely uncomforta-
ble basket-shaped affair, in which the occupant sits with his
knees doubled up to his chin, to enjoy the aristocratic
luxury of being carried by two men who have the good
fortune not to aspire to any style of locomotion beyond
that which Nature supplies them.
Leaving the bustling thoroughfares of trade, we were
led into a wide street, where the dignified quiet which
reigned, and the superior style of building, at once pro-
claimed the presence of aristocracy and opulence. The
word “Damio,” spoken in an under tone by the attendant
Centaurs, sufficiently intimated that we were in the pre-
cinct occupied by the hereditary Princes of the Empire,
and, of course, we directed our republican gaze with
more than ordinary interest and satisfaction toward the
long rows of neat and strongly constructed houses, lining
both sides of the street, each one of which, with the ground
attached, seemed to occupy about the same space as one
of the largest squares in our cities. They have a smooth
stone foundation, upon which a wall of rough diamond-
shaped stones is raised, the interstices being filled with
white mortar projecting beyond the surface and smoothly
laid, producing the effect of lattice-work; above this,
again, a plain white wall, about ten feet high, surmounted
by a roof of slate-colored tiles, projecting slightly beyond,
completes the structure. There are usually two rows of
* windows, one above the other, which have wooden bars
placed vertically across them, and paper sashes. The


MUNICIPALITY OF YE DO. 299
party retired early to bed, and left after breakfast in the
morning to return to the ship.
From the brief observations I was enabled to make in
the city during this and a subsequent visit, in the month
of February of this year, together with the information
obtained from those who had much better opportunities
of acquiring it than myself, I am satisfied that the
population of Yedo, including its suburbs, does not vary
much from three millions of people, many of whom are
only transient residents, belonging to the retinues of the
Damios, which frequently consist of seven or eight
thousand men. The limits of the city are said to contain
twenty-four square miles, and the topography of the
country in and around it is admirably diversified with
hills and plains, affording beautiful building-sites.for the
opulent, and convenient locations for the industrious
artisan, or the busy tradesman. The people have ex-
hibited their good taste by preserving the natural forma-
tion of the ground, and making their streets and build-
ings conform to its irregularities, instead of reducing all
to the dead level of a monotonous plain.
The system of municipal government is as near perfec-
tion as any that could be devised by merely human judg-
ment and sagacity. There is a Governor of the city
corresponding with our office of Mayor, whose emis-
saries are distributed over the city, and between them
and the people there is a lower class of officials, who act
as an intermediary channel of communication with the
Governor. Each street has its magistrate besides, and
he again is assisted in his multifarious duties by numer-
ous spies, who furnish him with the minutest details of
the public and private events occurring within his
jurisdiction. He is responsible to the Governor for all
26


J A PAN ESE COIN S. 301
curred while at sea, save our meeting with the American
schooner Wanderer, in Van Dieman's Strait. This little
vessel belonged to the house of Heard & Co., and was the
first employed as a regular trader between Shanghai and
Kanagawa, and there is no doubt that her owners were
handsomely rewarded for their sagacious enterprise.
The Flag-officer was induced to leave Japan earlier
than he desired, by the necessity of returning the Minister
to China to his post previous to a certain date, as that
functionary had a diplomatic engagement to fulfil which
would admit of no delay; consequently, our stay at
Woosung was limited to the few days required to re-
plenish our supply of coals, and make such minor pre-
parations as convenience or expediency suggested—all
of which being completed by the evening of the 24th, we
were under way again at 9 o'clock the next morning on
our return to Kanagawa.
The trade between Shanghai and Kanagawa had be-
come so important and flourishing, during the three
months that the latter port had been opened to foreign
commerce, that merchants were hastening thither with
the means of purchasing cargoes of the produce of the
country, consisting of raw silk, rape-seed oil, pearl shells,
sea-weed, etc.; and, also, to avail of the profits afforded
by exchanging Mexican dollars for the gold currency of
the country, amounting in the aggregate to about seventy
per centum; the Japanese gold Obani being purchased at
the rate of $52.É', each at Kanagawa, and sold in China
for $71. Hº ; the Cobang, which was bought at an average
of $2.50, brought $3.95, and the gold itzibus sold in the
same proportion. The Obani is a coin of oval form,
nearly six inches in length, and three and a half inches
in width, the thickness being about that of a Mexican


302 TRADE WITH SAN FRANCISCO.
dollar; the Cobang is also of oval form, two and a half
inches long, by one and a half wide, and about the thick-
ness of a dime, valued in Japan, originally, at $1.33.
The gold itzibu had about the same value in Japan as the
silver coin of the same denomination, but was intrinsi-
cally worth about 80 cents. The Obani was not in
general circulation, and but few of them could be procured.
With the view of forwarding the interests of American
merchants, Flag-officer Tattnall consented to afford a
passage to Kanagawa to several of those who desired to
invest their capital in the commercial products of that
vicinity; and having embarked a large sum in Mexican
dollars on board the Powhatan, with this object, during
our stay at Woosung, it was conveyed to Kanagawa with
the owners, having reached the anchorage in the bay of
Yokuhama on the 31st of October.
On our arrival we found the American bark Onward
at anchor in the bay, whither she had come as the
pioneer vessel from San Francisco, to which port she
returned after procuring a cargo of rape-seed oil, pur-
chased at 23 cents per gallon, and sold at 90 cents, as we
were subsequently informed. This vessel is still em-
ployed as a regular trader between the two ports,
although the prices of Japanese produce have been
greatly augmented by the increased demand. There
were, also, two English and one Dutch merchant-vessel
at anchor in the port, all of which seemed to be busily
employed.
The Governor of Kanagawa paid a visit to the Pow-
hatan, on the 9th of November, attended by a large re-
tinue, and was received with appropriate ceremonies. As
soon as he left the ship, we got under way and steamed
up to Yedo, where we learned, through an official com-


MEETING witH THE ‘‘HART FORD.’’ 303
munication from Minister Harris, that the number of
which the Embassy would be composed included seventy-
one persons of the various grades, nineteen having the
rank of officers, and fifty-two that of attendants. On the
11th we returned to Kanagawa, and shortly after we had
anchored in the bay, the American ship Canvass-back
arrived from Shanghai with 600 tons of coal, which had
been shipped from that port for the purpose of replenish;2 -
ing our bunkers before sailing for San Francisco with the
Embassy on board. This very necessary precaution had
been taken by the Flag-officer during our visit to Shang-
hai, in the month of September preceding, and the coal
was deposited temporarily on board the Japanese hulk,
of which mention has been made as lying off Yedo, the
native officials having brought her down to Yokuhama
for this special purpose.
On the morning of the 12th, we left for Hong Kong,
to make the final preparations necessary for receiving the
Embassy on board. Arriving on the 20th, we anchored
near the U. S. steam sloop Hartford, sent out to relieve
the Powhatan as the Flag-ship of the squadron, her ap-
pearance exciting strong symptoms of home-sickness in
many of those who had been anxiously looking forward
to this agreeable meeting for several months; never doubt-
ing that the immediate result would be “all hands up
anchor for home!" on board the Powhatan. The com-
mand of the squadron was immediately transferred to
Flag-officer Stribling, who sailed for Whampoa in the
Hartford a few days afterward.
The work of building houses on our quarter-deck for
accommodating the Japanese was now commenced by the
carpenters of the ship, and carried forward with all
possible dispatch; while the repairs rendered necessary
26 + U


304 A R R.I.W.A L OF MINISTER WA RID.
by the constant employment of the ship during the pre-
ceding year, occupied a large number of Chinese caulkers
and carpenters, whose incessant hammering and jabber-
ing for the space of two weeks, made a lasting impres-
sion on our minds of the horrors of such celestial as-
sociations.
The sloop-of-war Germantown arrived from Shanghai
on the 21st, with Minister Ward and suite on board, who
took up their quarters on shore, under the hospitable
roof of John Heard, Esq. The Germantown having com-
pleted her cruise on the station, was ordered to return
to the United States, and sailed for Norfolk, Va., on the
17th of the following month.
The duties devolving upon all the officers of the Pow-
hatan during the unusually long stay of the ship at Hong
Kong on this occasion, together with the individual pre-
parations incident to our anticipated departure from the
station, kept every one constantly occupied. The dis-
appointment caused by the unexpected protraction of
the cruise appeared to be forgotten, even by those who
were most disposed to complain of the hard fate which
consigned them to a passage round Cape Horn, after
awaiting so long the convenience of the Japanese Em-
bassy. Setting aside private interests and feelings, an
entirely different view of our circumstances was taken by
a large portion of the officers, who regarded the service
upon which the ship was to be employed as pregnant with
national importance and professional advantage, not only
to those who were immediately engaged in it, but to the
navy at large; the honor of transporting to our country,
in one of the finest war-steamers in the world, the first
diplomatic Embassy ever sent from the magnificent
empire of Japan, did much to reconcile us to the prolonged


MEETING WITH OLD FRIENDS. 305
detention from our firesides, and with cheerful alacrity
we pushed forward the work in hand, satisfied with the
prospective reward of being designated masters of the
ceremonies to introduce to the great republic of the west
the long-secluded people of Japan.
We were met with the most cordial hospitality by our
old acquaintances on board the Chesapeake; a deputation
of officers from the ward-room mess waiting upon us on
our arrival, with files of the latest papers and an invita-
tion to dinner, evincing a kind remembrance of our in-
tercourse in the Gulf of Pecheelee, and a delicacy of at-
tention which no people on earth know better how to dis-
play than the English, when they choose. Nor was the
friendly feeling manifested toward us confined to the
officers of the Chesapeake, as a large number of her crew
who were “on liberty" chanced to meet Captain Pearson
on shore, and as soon as he was recognized, word was
passed through the crowd, consisting of about fifty men,
who immediately drew up in line, raising their hats at
the same moment, and gave three hearty cheers for “the
Captain of the U. S. Steamer Powhatan,”—the value
of the compliment consisting partly in the fact that the men
were all perfectly sober.
Our excellent friends of the popular and flourishing
house of Olyphant & Co., were untiring in their generous
and truly home-like hospitalities to our mess, and I am
confident that they will always be remembered with feel-
ings of warm and grateful regard by each member of our
happy little fraternity. The cordial welcome with which
we were always greeted, and the genuine sympathy with
our national and professional peculiarities, which was
manifested by every one attached to the house, rendered
the cosy and elegant little dinner-parties, which were of


ILL HEALTH OF THE COMMOD OR E. 307
commanding the Marine force, written a few days after
the battle, will be found in the appendix.
In addition to the grateful assurance that his conduct
had merited the thanks of the British Government, the
Flag-officer had the greater satisfaction of learning, about
the same time, that it had received the hearty approval
of the President and Secretary of the Navy. And Ad-
miral Hope having heard incidentally that the Flag-
officer's health was so precarious as to justify the appre-
hension that he might be compelled to return from Yedo
to Nagasaki, or, perhaps, to Shanghai, after completing
the arrangements for the embarkation of the Embassy,
paid him the distinguished compliment of sending an
order, directed to the “Commander of any British man-
of-war at Yedo,” requiring him to place his vessel at the
disposal of the American Flag-officer, to convey him and
his suite to either of the points designated, should he
conclude to leave his own ship.
On the 30th of December, the Flag-officer entertained
at dinner on board, all the principal American merchants
of the city, accompanied by General Keenan, U. S. Consul,
and the occasion was marked with the most cordial and
heartfelt expressions of reciprocal respect.
The next morning we got under way, and making a
graceful turn outside of the shipping at anchor in the
bay, passed to the eastward between the English frigates
Chesapeake and Cambrian, near which were anchored
several smaller vessels of the squadron under Admiral
Hope's command. At the moment that our ship was
abreast of the two frigates, the crews of all these vessels
rushed aloft simultaneously, and gave three hearty cheers
as a parting salutation—a compliment which I doubt


PRE PARATIONS FOR T H E E M BASS Y. 309
CHA PTE R XIII.
Arrival at Yokuhama—Visit of the Ambassadors to the Ship—Lieu-
tenant Brooke ordered to the Candimar—Fire in Yokuhama-It
is rebuilt on a larger scale—Agreeable visit to the Prime Minister
— Handsome Presents — Cordial Adieux— Romantic Adventure
of the Chaplain—Embarkation of the Embassy—List of the officials
—Sailing of the Candimar—Delay of the Powhatan—The Cur-
rency Question—Final Departure from Japan.
WE reached Yokuhama Bay on the 11th of January,
1860, after the most boisterous and disagreeable passage
we had made during the cruise, and found the thermome-
ter standing at 30°, a temperature far below any we had
experienced since December, 1857.
It was soon ascertained that the number of additional
rooms built on our deck were insufficient for the accom-
modation of the Japanese Embassy, and the ship's car-
penters were set to work at once to erect two more large
state-rooms; one of the guns on each side of the quarter-
deck being dismounted, to make them more spacious and
convenient. The coal hulk was removed from her anchor-
age nearer to the ship, and we commenced receiving coal
from her, transported in native boats, which proved a
somewhat tedious operation.
On the 16th, the Japanese steamer Candimar arrived
from Yedo, with the Embassadors on board, who came
down to pay their respects to Flag-officer Tattnall, and
to inspect the ship which was to become their home for
so long a period, and during their first voyage upon the
fickle element. They were received with a salute of 17


M.A. R. KETS OF YO KU HA M.A. 311
considerable losses by the conflagration of their ware-
houses. Laborers were busily employed removing the
rubbish from the scene of the late disaster, and mechanics
in constructing new buildings of a more imposing and
commodious character—the competition among the
foreign merchants, in seeking the most eligible locations
for their residences, having reached a pitch of excitement
scarcely equalled among the business men on Broadway.
A new Tea-house had already been erected in the centre
of the marsh back of the town, far surpassing in size and
style that which had been destroyed, a long causeway
leading through the marsh towards this national palace
of licentiousness.
The shops continued to present their unrivalled attrac-
tions to the foreigners of all nations visiting the place,
and some new and beautiful article was brought into
market every day that we remained there; so that making
daily visits to the smiling shopmen became both an inter-
esting and necessary occupation, to those who could afford
to indulge their taste for the curious and unique.
There were other shops for the sale of the more essential
articles that were required on board for daily consump-
tion, of which there was an abundant supply at extremely
moderate prices; hampers containing a bushel and a half
of fine Irish potatoes being sold for an itzibu, a pair of
splendid pheasants, wild geese, or wild ducks, for the
same, and wild boar meat and venison commanded no
higher prices in proportion; we frequently bought for our
mess, a fine fat buck for two dollars. Beef was to be
procured without difficulty, but not upon the same eco-
nomical terms. The fish caught in the bay are generally
more remarkable for beauty of form and color, than for
delicacy of flavor; but there was no limit to the supply,
27


VISIT TO THE PRIME MINISTER. 313
We got under way for Yedo on the 1st of February,
where we anchored within two hours, near the same spot
selected on our former visits. The Flag-officer lost no
time in calling on Mr. Harris, to inform him that the ship
was in readiness for the reception of the Embassadors
and their suite, and to ascertain precisely at what time
they would be prepared to embark. Mr. Harris placed
such implicit confidence in the punctuality and fidelity of
the Japanese officials generally, that he assured the Flag-
officer he might dispel any apprehension of delay on the
part of the Embassy, as every one connected with it
would undoubtedly be on board the ship, prepared for
immediate departure, at the original time appointed.
Although the preliminary arrangements had all been
made by Mr. Harris, it was evident that a personal inter-
view between the Flag-officer and the distinguished func-
tionaries soon to become his guests, would be productive
of mutual advantage; and therefore immediate prepara-
tions were made for a meeting at the palace of the Prime
Minister of the Empire—the party consisting of the Flag-
officer and Mr. Harris, Captain Pearson, the Flag-lieu-
tenant (Trenchard), and myself.
We assembled at the residence of Mr. Harris on the
morning of the 5th of February, attended by servants
bearing the paraphernalia in which we were to be arrayed
for the occasion, and being received by the host with the
almost overpowering politeness for which he is distin-
guished, were conducted to the respective apartments
assigned us for the immediate adornment of our persons,
by means of epaulettes, cocked hats, swords, gold laced
coats and pantaloons, as the cortège was to move precisely
at meridian. A few minutes before this hour, the spacious
yard in front of the dwelling exhibited quite an animated


RECEPTION B Y THE PEOPLE. 315
and Secretary to the Legation, Mr. Hueskin, and then *
followed the Flag and other officers of the ship according
to rank, a complete list of their names and official titles
having been forwarded previously to the Prime Minister,
as also of the number of commissioned officers remaining
on board. Arriving in the street, this imposing proces-
sion evidently created quite a sensation among the grave
and unsophisticated populace, who gazed in wondering
admiration upon the scene, apparently undecided for a
moment, as they saw it approaching, concerning the pro-
priety of making the same obeisance required during the
passage of one of their own Damios, by kneeling and
bowing their heads to the earth. The sight of the flag,
however, with which they had become pretty generally
acquainted, immediately quieted any apprehensions of the
wrath of their offended dignitaries being visited on them
for want of due respect; and they greeted us whenever
they could catch a responsive glance, with smiles of kindly
welcome, apparently making a running commentary upon
our appearance, though whether complimentary or the
reverse, will ever remain unknown to us. Of course, their
language was incomprehensible, and seated in a norimon
it is quite impossible to form a very clear idea of the
objects by which one is surrounded, as the line of vision
is brought down to about the level of the knees while
standing, but we could see enough in passing, to form a
tolerably correct idea of the general character of the im-
pression made upon the people by such an unusual parade
of foreigners in the Imperial city.
We passed through miles of narrow streets, lined on
each side with neat and cleanly shops for the sale of the
various articles known in the country, and crowded by
as happy, healthy looking people as I ever saw, most of
27 4.


316 THE PRIME MINISTER’s PALACE.
whom stooped low-enough to catch a passing glimpse of
our tout ensemble as we reclined a la Turque, cocked hat
in hand, upon the cushions of the norimon. From this
busy quarter we soon emerged upon a large open space
covered with booths, indicating it to be a market stand,
and immediately beyond this appeared a broad stream of
water, enclosed, as far as the eye could reach, between
stone walls. Passing along the wide avenue, between this
stream and a range of handsome stone buildings on the
right, occupied by some of the hereditary Princes, we
soon came to another open area, with the angle of a stone
wall constructed of massive blocks of granite, jutting out
upon it, and reaching to the height of thirty feet. Just
beyond the angle of this wall, a huge gateway stood open
to receive us, and as we entered a number of soldiers were
visible at a small guard-house, armed with what appeared
in the distance to be rifles, a rack containing similar
weapons being placed in front of the guard-room. We
pursued our course through an extended line of handsome
one-storied buildings on each side, until we came to a
second wall of the same height as the first, and passing
through another gateway guarded in a similar manner to
the former, we came suddenly upon a smoothly paved
walk, leading directly to the entrance-hall of the Prime
Minister's palaces. Before entering this second gate we
dismounted from our norimons, which were left outside,
as it was very important that we should be relieved from
the cramped position to which we had been subjected by
those torturing vehicles, some little time previous to the
interview, otherwise the whole party would inevitably
have gone limping into the hall of audience, and thereby
destroyed completely the imposing effect of our “war
paint.” The etiquette of the country also requires all


PRIME MINISTER’s AUDIENCE HALL. 317
visitors to leave their norimons outside the threshold,
only the owner of the house alighting within. We were
met at the entrance of the palace by four or five grave
and dignified officials, who conducted us through a wide
verandah, covered with the soft matting of the country;
here, in accordance with the national custom, we should
have left our boots, but not appearing to observe the in-
sinuating straw sandals placed at the door for our use, we
passed from this verandah into a recess on the left, and
turned into a spacious hall beyond, the rear wall of which
was covered with thickly ornamented paper, the opposite
side consisting of sliding sashes with paper in lieu of
glass. On this side of the hall appeared about a dozen
lower officials, placed at regular intervals on their knees,
and scarcely venturing to raise their heads sufficiently to
catch a hasty glimpse of the strangers, as we passed
toward the upper end, and took our seats in the hand-
some arm chairs placed for us in the rear of a row of
small tables. Between each two of these tables there
stood a large brazier with a glowing charcoal fire, the
weather being such as to render this quite a necessary
provision for comfort. Our Minister was placed at the
upper table, immediately opposite to a similar one in front
of the Emperor's representative, and the other members
of the party were seated in accordance with the order of
their entrance, the Interpreter always occupying the posi-
tion next the Minister, for the sake of convenience.
On the right of the Prime Minister, and opposite to
our Flag-officer, was the Minister of Marine, and on his
right were placed the three Embassadors, who were soon
to become the honored guests of our country. Moriyama,
the native Interpreter, accompanied by Namoora, who
had been designated as the principal Interpreter to the


318 ROUTE TO THE UNITED STATES.
Embassy, were on their knees in the space between the
two ministers, and as Mr. Hueskin communicated to the
former Mr. Harris's remarks to the Prime Minister, in the
Dutch language, they were delivered by him in Japanese
to his superior. While the conversation relative to the em-
barkation of the Embassy was going forward, servants
dressed in silks had placed upon each of the tables, small
cups of powdered tea, and trays holding pipes and boxes
of tobacco, with which we were requested to regale our-
selves as soon as it was concluded. The Flag-officer availed
of the opportunity afforded by this interview, to urge upon
the Minister the great advantage of conveying the Em-
bassadors to the United States via the Cape of Good
Hope, in preference to the route across the North Pacific
at that boisterous season, and the passage over the Isthmus
from Panama. After representing fairly all the inconve-
niences and discomforts to which they would probably be
exposed on the latter route, and explaining that his reason
for mentioning the subject, was simply to give them the
benefit of his experience in relation to it, the Flag-officer
left the decision of the question entirely to the judgment
of the Premier, by whom it was immediately referred to :
the Embassadors, and they, after a little private consulta-
tion, expressed a decided preference for the Panama
route, as they had always contemplated going in that
way, and had therefore made it a subject of special study.
This of course decided the matter, and as there was no
more official talking to be done, we all proceeded to dis-
cuss the various edibles with which the tables had been
abundantly supplied, and to drink the powdered tea, fol-
lowed by numberless glasses of different kinds of saki, all
which we were required by etiquette to taste, and some
of which taste compelled us to finish.


322 J A PAN ES E COO KING - R A N G. E.
bake any article of their diet, no arrangement was made
for that style of cooking. The whole affair was finished
with the neatness for which all their mechanical works
are distinguished; but their delay in bringing it on board
had excited no little apprehension, lest the large accession
to our usual number should interfere materially with the
already limited and inconvenient cooking arrangements
provided for the officers and crew of the ship—never
dreaming that within twenty-four hours of the time ap-
pointed for our sailing, so complete and commodious an
affair as this range proved to be, could be prepared for
service. Mechanics had come on board while we re-
mained at Yokuhama, and taken an accurate measure-
ment of the caboose-house built on our deck at Hong
Kong, and forwarding the requisite dimensions to other
mechanics at Yedo, it was manufactured and brought on
board, where, with the aid of a little soft mud, it was
soon so firmly fixed in its place, that the ship might
have rolled over, and it would have maintained its
position.
An incident occurred about this time which illustrates
the fact that considerable deference will have to be paid
to the peculiar notions of this singular people for some
time to come, and which ought to serve as a slight warn-
ing to strangers visiting the country, against an unre-
strained indulgence of their curiosity. The Chaplain of
the Powhatan had been reading in some work describing
the wonders of Yedo, an account of a very large and much
frequented temple, situated in a distant quarter of the
city; and he determined, in a spirit of inquiry and thirst
for learning, for which he is justly distinguished, to have
a look at this interesting edifice. He mentioned his
resolve to Mr. Huesken, the Secretary of Legation, desiring


THE CHAPLAIN'S ADVENTURE. 323
to enlist his kind offices in the procurement of a horse
and guide; but that gentleman hastened to assure him
that he would require the protection of two or three offi-
cials in travelling so far beyond the ordinary limits of
foreign incursion, as the inhabitants of that part of the
city were much averse to the intrusion of strangers, and
would probably insult him, or even commit some outrage
upon his person, if he ventured alone into their secluded
precinct. The Chaplain was too much accustomed to
rambling alone wherever his “own sweet will” dictated,
to entertain for a moment any apprehension of danger;
and his eagerness to acquire information would have
overcome, at all events, a small mountain of obstacles of
whatever description; so he resolutely declined the ser-
vices of the officials, and started off on his kicking pony,
with a small boy to act as pilot, who conducted him safely
to the end of his perilous journey, and, on arriving at the
temple, he dismounted and walked into the immense crowd
of men, women, and children assembled therein, with as
much nonchalance as if he was to be the officiating cler-
gyman on the important occasion which had called them
together. But, while he was gazing with intense curi-
osity and delight at the interior decorations of the heathen
fane, he suddenly felt a gentle tap on the upper part of
his person, which he was not long in ascertaining came
from a small missile projected by the hand of some one
in the crowd, and as he turned to direct his attention
more to the mass of animation around him than he had
hitherto condescended to do, he felt his arms suddenly
seized by a couple of genteel officials, who quietly walked
him out of the temple, and, by an expressive pantomime,
motioned him on to his pony, and back to the Minister's
residence, distant some seven miles; where he learned for
28


324 RECEPTION OF THE EMBASSA D OR S.
the first time that these officials had dogged his steps
from the moment of his starting, and that, but for their
timely interference, he would probably have been stoned
to death by the incensed populace. The adventurous
parson considered himself fully compensated, however,
for the trouble and hazard of his excursion, by the mo-
mentary glimpse he had obtained of the particular object
of his research, especially as he had passed through a
very populous and well-built portion of Yedo in its pur-
suit, which he described as being far superior to any he
had previously seen.
Punctual to the hour appointed for their embarcation,
the Embassadors, with their numerous retinue, were seen
coming alongside of the ship with a fleet of thirty boats,
at 3 P.M., on the 9th, and arrangements were immedi-
ately made for their reception, with all the marks of
Naval etiquette due to their elevated rank. The Japanese
flag was run up at the fore, and the men called to their
stations for saluting, the officers paraded on the starboard
side of the quarter-deck in uniform, the marine guard on
the opposite side, and the boatswain with his pipe and six
“side boys,” standing by to pipe them over the side,
while the band was in readiness to strike up our own
national air in honor of the occasion, the Japanese anthem
not having been composed as yet. The Embassadors
were received at the gangway by the Flag-officer, and
escorted to the poop-deck, on reaching which the salute
of seventeen guns was thundered forth from our heavy
battery, to their infinite surprise and satisfaction.
Immediately after the ceremonies of the reception were
concluded, the usual quiet and systematic routine of
duties progressed in their ordinary channels, and desiring
to make an early acquaintance with the relative rank


MEMBERS OF THE E M BASS Y. 325
and individual appellations of the large accession to the
number, for whose suitable accommodation it devolved
upon me to assign quarters, I hastened to procure from
the principal interpreter a correct list of the persons
composing the Embassy, which is here subjoined:
Embassador No. 1, . . . . Simme-Boozen-no-kami.
… “ 2, . . . . Muragaki-Awadsi-no-kami.
Chief Censor (or Spy), . . . Ogure-Bungo-no-kami.
Officers of 1st rank belonging ( Naruse Gensiro.
to Embassadors, . . . . { Tsucahara Jugoro.
Officers of 1st rank belonging (Hetaka Keisaburo.
to Censor, . . . . . Osakabe Tetstaro.
Under officers belonging to the ( Matsmoto Sannojio.
Embassadors, . . . Yosida Sagosaimon.
Under officers belonging to the (Masudu Sunjuro.
Treasurer, . . . . . 4. Hosingoro.
Under officers belonging to the ( Kurisima Hico-hatsiro.
Censor, . . . . . . 4.
Namoora Gohatsiro.
Interpreters, - - - {: Tokujuro.
Tateise Onogero. º
Meodake.
Doctors, . . . . . º
Cowasaki.
This list comprises the number of officials of all grades
who came on board, to which must be added fifty-two
attendants with various distinct vocations—such as bar-
bers, pike-bearers, armorers, and servants, making a total
of seventy-one persons.
The boats containing the baggage, amounting in all
to more than fifty tons, were permitted to come alongside
at the conclusion of the salute, and in a brief space of
time, the endless variety of packages, consisting of chests,
boxes, bales, tubs, bundles, buckets, bowls, cooking uten-
sils, etc., etc., were transferred to our decks, and distributed


326 RETURN TO KAN AG AWA.
so rapidly by the intelligent attendants, with slight assist-
ance from the crew, that some little wonder was excited
as to what disposition had been made of them. The in-
terpreters were instructed concerning the designation of
the various apartments appropriated to the Embassy; and
in the course of an hour these seventy-one strangers, but
few of whom had ever before been on the deck of any
vessel larger than one of their native junks, were as
quietly and comfortably quartered as if they had spent
their lives in a man-of-war.
As soon as the boats were discharged of their contents,
the ship was got under way for Kanagawa, and reached
the anchorage near that town at about 7 P.M. The dropping
of our anchor was followed by the arrival of sundry boat
loads of noisy domestic animals, for whose accommoda-
tion a large addition had been made to the ordinary sup-
ply of coops, pens, etc., and they “made night hideous”
with their quacking, squealing, and cackling, until they
got possession of their new quarters. This opportunity
for replenishing the supplies of the ward-room mess was
not neglected by our attentive steward, but in his laud-
able efforts to provide for our comfort, the poor fellow
met with a sad fate. He was returning from Yokuhama
to the ship before daybreak in the morning, in a native
boat containing two bullocks, under the impression that
we were going to sea at a very early hour, and the wind
becoming quite fresh, and directly ahead, the boatmen
found it impossible to make any progress against it, or
to return in safety to the shore. The weight of the
bullocks caused the boat to swim so deep, that she was
soon swamped by the rising sea, at some distance from
the beach. The lifeless body of the steward was found
at the water's edge soon after daylight by a native fisher-


328 CURRENCY DIFFICULTIES.
There being neither railroads nor telegraph wires in
Japan, two days were occupied in the transmission of the
correspondence growing out of this matter, whereas, as
many hours would have sufficed in our country of iron
horses and lightning despatches. As this vexatious cor-
respondence originated in the complicated and embar-
rassing state of the currency at Yokuhama, a few words
in explanation of the subject may not be amiss during
the delay in our departure which it occasioned.
In the treaty negotiated by Mr. Harris, and signed on
board the Powhatan July 29th, 1858, it was agreed that
the Japanese should receive “all foreign coins for their
corresponding weight of Japanese coin of the same de-
scription;” a stipulation being added requiring the Gov-
ernment to furnish the Americans with Japanese coin in
exchange for theirs, equal weight being given, and no
discount charged for recoinage; and allowing the period
of one year to elapse after the opening of each harbor, to
enable the Japanese to become acquainted with the value
of foreign coins. By the same article of the treaty con-
taining these terms, Americans, and all other foreigners
having treaties with Japan, were allowed to export the
coins of the country (copper excepted), in any quantity
they could command; and as the Japanese Government
failed "to establish, at the same time, the relative value
of their gold coins according to the standard existing in
other countries, this privilege was eagerly taken advan-
tage of by all the early settlers at Yokuhama, when it
was discovered that so large a profit could be made by pur-
chasing obani, cobangs, and gold itzibus, with silveritzibus.
The sale of these coins to foreigners was prohibited by an
Imperial edict, but this did not appear to have the least
effect, except to produce an extensive illicit traffic in


330 FIN AN CIA L STRATA GEMS.
changed daily for each applicant, was determined by the
amount in itzibus received from the mint at Yedo, thus
causing daily variations in the amount to be exchanged,
ranging from five to fifty dollars, the largest of these
amounts being scarcely more than sufficient for the daily
expenses of many of the mercantile establishments. As
the names of the parties desiring to exchange their coin
were required by the officials, the custom-house would be
thronged every morning as soon as it was opened, with
eager expectants, holding in their hands long lists of
men of straw, for whom the stipulated amount of change
was demanded; and it was quite as amusing to observe
the imperturbable gravity and precision with which the
unmoved officials weighed the coin, as to hear the absurd
and ludicrous names invented by the ingenious and ex-
cited applicants. It occurred to me at the time that the
latter would have made admirable census-takers for a
thinly-settled but aspiring district, in our land-speculating
Western country.
This financial ruse was soon discovered, of course, by
the keen and wary officials, but they chose to wink at it
for a time, preferring to gratify the demands of the for-
eigners as long as it remained in their power to do so;
eventually, however, they attempted a counter-stratagem,
by declaring that they could only exchange a small pro-
portion of the amount demanded by each individual; and
to meet this, the astute and persistent foreigners asked
for the most fabulous and incalculable sums, whereupon
they again resorted to the original rule of allowing only
a certain amount to each person, and this was afterward
adhered to rigidly. There were English merchants in
Yokuhama, however, who contrived to procure the ex-
change of itzibus for large sums in dollars, and I am


A M E R C H A N T P UN IS HE D. 331
quite confident that they could only have done so, through
the custom-house, by the official and peremptory inter-
ference of their consular representative, instances of
which were reported to have occurred. Meanwhile, the
Japanese merchants who had exchanged their gold
cobangs for silver itzibus so advantageously, came to the
foreigners to sell these in turn for Mexican dollars,
charging them, of course, a “living profit” on the ex-
change, and relying upon their influence at the custom-
house to replace the much-coveted coin. This artful
dodge was revealed, by some means, to the Governor;
and one of the wealthiest silk merchants in the place
being detected in its practice, was imprisoned immediately,
and had all his property confiscated—at least, so we were
informed by reliable native authority. The business had
evidently been overdone too, because when we were last
at Yokuhama, Mexican dollars were being sold by the
Japanese at two itzibus, or sixty-six and two-third cents
each.
With this explanation of the vexatious obstacles thrown
in the way of foreign trade at Yokuhama by the Japanese,
(principally, as I sincerely believe, for the reasons indi-
cated in the foregoing statement, but partly owing, no
doubt, to their natural apprehensions concerning the pos-
sible political results of so sudden and so considerable, an
acquisition of wealth by a class of people held in such low
estimation as merchants are among the governing classes),
I will proceed with my narrative.
Lieut. Habersham, of the Powhatan, having offered his
resignation to the Flag-officer on the 1st of February,
with the design of turning his attention to commercial
pursuits in Yokuhama, it was accepted, subject to the
approval of the President of the United States; and


332 JEA Lou SY OF ENGLISH RESIDENTs.
Lieut. Thorburn, recently attached to the Fenimore
Cooper, was ordered to the Powhatan, to supply the defi-
ciency in the complement of lieutenants on board.
There was evidently a good deal of jealous feeling ex-
cited among the English residents at Yokuhama, by the
successful issue of the patient and sagacious efforts made
by our accomplished Minister at Yedo, to induce the
Japanese Government to send their first foreign Embassy
to the United States, in preference to all other countries,
and I have good authority for stating that the most
tempting offers, in the way of transportation, were made
by the diplomatic agents of England resident in the
country, to prevail upon the Imperial Government to
change the destination of the Embassy, even after it had
been organized and prepared to embark for the United
States. Indeed, the opinion was prevalent among the
officers of the Powhatan, that the communication ad-
dressed to Mr. Harris by the English Consul-General at
Yedo, only two days previous to that appointed for the
departure of the Powhatan with the Embassy on board,
was simply a diplomatic ruse concocted by Dr. Alcock, in
pursuance of this small aim for patriotic ambition, as this
formidable document contained expressions evidently in-
tended to excite apprehensions of England's displeasure
with Japan, unless the first consideration was shown by
her officials to British merchants residing in the country;
and an imaginary departure from this course in the dis-
tribution of itzibus at the Yokuhama Custom-house, was
made the subject of grave complaint to the Imperial
Government, accompanied by the announcement that the
conduct of the partial officials should be reported to the
British lion—a threat which Dr. Alcock appeared to
think would bring the Japanese very speedily to terms.


ENGLISH IN TRIGU ES IN J A PA. N. 333
In support of the assertion that efforts were made to
secure the first Embassy from this long-secluded country
to England, and to change the destination of that de-
signed for the United States, I have the voluntary assu-
rance of Namoora, the principal Interpreter to the
Embassy, given only a few days after sailing from Yedo,
to the effect that a large and comfortable steamer had
been placed at the disposal of the Government to convey
the Embassadors as far as Aden, on the overland route
to England, with suitable arrangements for the continu-
ance of the journey, and that, as an additional and rare
inducement, the Great Eastern was to have been em-
ployed for the return trip around the Cape of Good
Hope. This sort of chicanery may be all right in diplo-
macy, but to the uninitiated it has rather a contemptible
appearance.
The Flag-officer having instituted an official investiga-
tion into the facts connected with the frivolous allegations
of partiality on the part of the Custom-house officials at
Yokuhama, which charged them with dispensing an un-
due amount of itzibus to the officers of the Powhatan,
was enabled to afford a complete refutation of the invidi-
ous aspersions which the English Consul-General had
attempted to cast upon both the Japanese and American
officers; as it was clearly proved that no distinction had
been made in this particular between English and Ameri-
cans, except in the case of the officer who had the dis-
bursement of all the funds of the ship, and whose expen-
ditures were necessarily greater than those of any indi-
vidual on shore. The Governor of Kanagawa was waited
on and interrogated as to whether any of the officers of
the ship had made use of their official position to extort
a larger amount of change from the Custom-house than


JAPAN ESE IN G E N UITY. 335
CHA PTER XIV.
The Japanese at sea—Visit of the Embassadors to the ward-room
—The “Japs” maintain a polite reserve, and manifest an inquir-
ing spirit–Brief sketch of the principal Officials — Tommy –
Arrival at Honolulu—Delight of the Passengers — Presentation
at Court—The King and Queen—Ball at Dr. Guillou's—Incidents
on shore—Enthusiastic artists—Entertainments on shore—Sail
from Honolulu—Arrive at San Francisco — Great enthusiasm
among the Residents—Hospitable treatment—The freedom of the
City extended—The Candimar and Lieutenant Brooke—Flag-
officer Tattnall's departure for New York in the Mail steamer—
Sailing of the Powhatan for Panama.
FoRTUNATELY, the weather was quite moderate during
the first two or three days after losing sight of the coast,
as the immense weight upon our upper deck, in addition
to the ordinary burden of the ship, increased her draught
of water considerably beyond that which was usual, and
would have made her extremely uncomfortable in a
heavy sea.
Our passengers availed themselves of this favorable
opportunity to make the most convenient stowage of the
numerous articles required for their daily and hourly
use; and it was surprising to see how readily they adapted
themselves to the novel circumstances in which they
were placed, and how ingenious they were in economizing
space, so as to deduce the greatest possible amount of
comfort and convenience from the very circumscribed
quarters in which they were necessarily placed. The
space between the beams overhead in each room was
29 W


336 EMBASSADORS IN THE WARD-Room.
crossed with small strips of wood, or with a network of
twine, which made a snug receptacle for many small or
light articles, such as their funny looking hats, oiled-
paper rain-clothes, and swords; and that beneath the
berths was occupied by trunks and boxes of clothing.
Their bedding consisted of two cotton comforts nearly as
thick as an ordinary mattress, between which they en-
veloped themselves in a loose gown of the same material,
also thickly wadded; they were by no means particular
in the choice of a place for repose, using either the berth
appropriated to them, or the deck for this purpose, as
inclination prompted. On the floor in the centre of
their rooms stood the indispensable fire-box, containing
a living coal surrounded by ashes, and the servants were
incessantly clattering along the deck in their wooden clogs,
or straw sandals, bringing repeated supplies of tea, which
they seemed to be drinking at all hours of the day.
We were honored in the ward-room, on the first day
out, with a visit from the Embassadors, who came down,
attended by several servants, to pay their respects to the
officers. They brought with them a present to each
member of the mess, consisting of two extremely pretty
lacquered cups, made of wood in the shape of wine-
glasses; these were all placed in a box together, having
a small strip of dried fish-skin tied on to the box with a
paper string, this being the invariable accompaniment of
even the most trifling gift from one of high rank. The
distinguished guests were received with due politeness,
and thanks returned for the delicate tokens of regard
presented; and as the character of the gifts seemed some-
what suggestive of a libation to Bacchus, an immediate
demand was made upon the steward for a supply of Con-
stantia and Madeira wines, knowing the fondness of the


338 SIMME-BOOZEN-NO-K AMI.
extend only to the acquisition of all the information that
could be obtained while on board, respecting the great
country for whose shores they had embarked, and the
social institutions, and domestic life of the strange people
among whom they had been so suddenly thrown. The
names and official titles of the ward-room officers were
known to the members of the Embassy within twenty-
four hours after they came on board, as they had not the
slightest hesitation in walking up to any of us, and with
a gentle nudge, by way of calling our attention, repeat-
ing the word “name" in a tone of inquiry, while they
drew out the ever-ready memorandum-book and writing-
case. As soon as they caught the sound, it was trans-
ferred in their own singular characters to the book, and
repeated to themselves until the correct pronunciation
was fixed in their minds; and it was really surprising to
observe the facility with which it was acquired, as well
as the accuracy of their memory when a word had once
been learned by them.
All that I could gather respecting the public or private
history of the Embassadors themselves, would make an
exceedingly brief biography, but as I am assured that
the merit of truth, at least, will attach to the statements I
shall give, I trust this priceless quality will compensate
for the absence of bogus information, in the shape of fancy
sketches.
SIMME-BOOZEN-No-KAMI, the Chief Embassador, was a
native of the city of Yedo, and about thirty-seven years
of age, possessing a mild and benevolent countenance,
and easy affability of manner, though somewhat inclined
to taciturnity. He was evidently not a man of brilliant
intellect, but appeared to possess an amiable temper and
kind heart; and being of aristocratic origin, his personal


M U R A G A K I-A W A DSI - N O - KAMI. 339
appearance and manner indicated a degree of refinement,
supposed to be peculiar to that favored class in Japan,
as well as all other countries. Before he was appointed
to the high position of Chief Embassador to the United
States, he filled the office of Chamberlain to the Emperor,
who, in consideration of his elevation, as well as to evince
a proper degree of respect for the country to which he
was accredited, conferred on him the title of Kami, which
signifies a temporal lord or prince, and has also a spiritual
meaning, indicating an association with the numerous
gods worshipped by the disciples of Buddha and Sinto
—as these ambitious islanders are not content with mere
earthly distinctions. He was not one of the 360 Damios,
or hereditary Princes of the country, and has never been
the ruler of a province, though he may have held the
office of governor of a city.
MURAGAKI-AwadSI-No-KAMI, the second Embassador,
was a native of the island of Nipon, aged about fifty, and
with the exception of the Treasurer, Morita Okatara, was
the oldest man in the Embassy. But little intercourse
was held with him by any one on board, as he was so
great a sufferer from sea-sickness during the passage to .
Honolulu, that he never appeared on deck, and was even
confined to his berth in the lower cabin the greater part
of the time. He had formerly held the position of Gov-
ernor of Hakodadi, and was evidently a man of greater
intellectual capacity than his chief, though the impossi-
bility of holding any direct conversation with either,
renders this more a matter of opinion than of practical
deduction. He seemed attached to the Embassy merely
as a make-weight, as it was never observed that he was
consulted respecting any of their movements, or volun-
teered any suggestions on the subjects presented to their
29 +


340 O G U R E - B UN GO - NO - KAMI.
consideration. He also was a mere titular Prince, with-
out hereditary distinction.
OGURE-BUNGo-No-KAMI was, without doubt, the
shrewdest and most practical character of them all; and
through him alone could the Embassadors hold any official
intercourse with the authorities of the different places
they visited. His age was about 40, his figure small, but
with a large intellectual head, according to phrenological
judgment; and his face, which was slightly marked with
small-pox, beamed with intelligence and sagacity. He
had formerly occupied some confidential position near the
person of the Emperor, and accompanied the Embassy
for the express purpose of rendering to his august Master
an explicit and faithful record of the experience of all its
members in their adventurous and, to them, unprecedented
travels. The title of Kami was conferred upon the
Censor when designated as one of the Embassy.
The principal officials, with whom we made quite
familiar acquaintance, walked in and out without cere-
mony, at all hours of the day, frequently remaining in
the mess-room until the lights were extinguished at 10
P. M. On their first visit after we got fairly out upon the
ocean, they brought a large glass jar filled with dried
figs, and a box of sugared grapes, which were presented
to the mess, with something like ostentatious generosity,
by Naruse Gensiro, whom we all addressed as “Governor,”
and Tsucahara Jugoro, the most universal favorite on
board.
These two officials were emphatically the business-men
of the Embassy, and the intermediate channel of commu-
nication between the Interpreters and the Embassadors,
who themselves took no step of any importance without
consulting the Censor. Naruse had been Vice-Governor of
-


THE PRINCIPAL INTER PRETER. 343
Namoora Gohatsiro, the principal interpreter, was a
native of Nagasaki, about 27 years of age, of small
stature and delicate frame, but of most indomitable energy
and imperious will. He has been an interpreter of both
Dutch and English for many years, having been associated
with Moriyama Yenoske, the chief interpreter appointed
to confer with Commodore Perry's Dutch Interpreter, Mr.
Portman, and who is now the Interpreter to the Prime
Minister of the Empire. Namoora was altogether the
most intelligent man who belonged to the Embassy; and
he was unremitting in his efforts to gain all kinds of in-
formation about our country and people, during the voy-
age from Yedo to Panama. I had a long discussion with
him, on one occasion, concerning the reintroduction of the
Christian religion into Japan, brought about by my urging
him to read the Bible. He not only refused to read it
himself, but rejected my friendly offers to read it aloud
for his edification, saying that he did not want to know
anything about it; because if his countrymen should
hear of his evincing any interest in the subject, he would
be reported to the Government, and have his head taken
off. He had no doubt the precepts it inculcated were ex-
cellent, but the risk of any attempt to become acquainted
with them was too great for him, and he would have to
content himself with ignorance on that branch of know-
ledge. I replied that the Bible would certainly be read
in Japan at no distant day, by the people of the country,
and that his refusal to do so was only a foolish continua-
tion of the same obdurate heresy displayed by the Jews
in ancient times, the results of which he could see mani-
fested, as well in the downfall of that once-powerful
people, as in the unparalleled prosperity of Christian
nations, and the miraculous advancement of their religion


“ToMMY's" HABITs on BoARD SHIP. 345
main top was something of a wag, and never permitted
interlopers in the starboard gangway without attaching
some expressive sobriquet to them, the appositeness of
which caused it to be generally adopted. To this facetious
individual is our friend Tateise Onogero indebted for the
euphonious nom de guerre under which he took captive
so many of his fair admirers in our novelty loving country.
Tommy was in and out of the ward-room an average
of ten or twelve times a day, and, occasionally, when he
would be attacked with the indescribable qualms of sea-
sickness, he would fall asleep like a weary child upon the
sofa ; on awakening, after an hour's nap, he would evince
the greatest astonishment at his whereabouts, and take a
sudden leave with a “Good morning all gentlemens,”
although it might happen to be late in the afternoon. It
seemed quite impossible to fix his attention upon any one
subject more than a minute; and, frequently, just as it
might be presumed his interest was excited to such a de-
gree as to insure his remaining, he would suddenly de-
part, saying, “I have business; therefore, I go; good
bye,” the last words being spoken after he was out of
sight.
On the third day after sailing from Yokuhama, the
weather became squally and unpleasant in the extreme;
the wind blew violently, and drove hail and snow in
alternate blasts athwart our slippery and unsteady decks;
and the forward part of the ship was almost constantly
enveloped in sheets of spray, which came rushing and
tumbling aft to the quarter-deck, setting everything
movable in its course to dancing, often in most inconve-
nient proximity to the shins of the unfortunates whose
duty might compel them to attempt the passage to the gal-
ley, or cooking establishment. The poor animals on the


346 SQUALLY WEATHER.
forward deck suffered terribly with the cold and wet, and
we had soon to slaughter the bullocks out of pure com-
passion; the sheep and pigs seemed to “make better
weather,” to use a nautical expression, than the larger
animals; and we had Shanghai mutton for dinner, fre-
quently, three weeks or more after leaving Japan.
The weather became more and more boisterous as we
progressed on our course to the northward and eastward;
and on the 18th and 19th of February, the sea had risen
to such a height that it was found necessary to change
the course, so as to bring the ship's head up to its direc-
tion, with just sufficient speed to prevent her from falling
off into its trough, and insure her steering with greater
facility, an expedient which is called, in nautical parlance,
“lying to.” The wind changed suddenly from S. E. to
S. W., thereby producing an extremely cross and irregular
sea, from which there appeared to be no escape, as it was
quite impossible to steer clear of its angry billows; and
the ship was completely deluged with their foaming
crests, breaking and tumbling over her sides from the
bows to the quarters. One of the large boats on the
starboard side was filled with water and carried clean
away, davits and all, and that on the opposite side was
so seriously endangered, that nothing but the most
prompt and seaman-like efforts on the part of the officer
of the watch, prevented her sharing the fate of the other,
which was the Flag-officer's barge.
The Japanese gave no indication of fear, but, on the
contrary, maintained their cheerful and contented de-
meanor through all the discomforts and annoyances to
which they were unavoidably subjected. Many of them
were constantly confined to their berths by sea-sickness,
but found an imperfect shelter even there, as their rooms
|


348 SIGHT THE IS LAND OF O A H U.
learned to revere as one of the greatest among the great
men of the earth.
The weather continued so unfavorable to our progress,
and the consumption of coal had necessarily been so great
in comparison with the distance accomplished, that on the
27th the Flag-officer decided to relinquish his original,
intention of endeavoring to steam directly to San Fran-
cisco, and ordered the course to be altered for Honolulu,
the capital of the Hawaian Islands, from which our posi-
tion was then distant about 1100 miles, the former port
being some 700 miles further.
Contrary to our expectations, we did not find much
abatement in the force of the prevailing easterly winds
as we steamed to the southward, and the ship continued
to be exceedingly uneasy and uncomfortable up to the
moment that the lee was reached caused by the island of
Oahu, which lies in the latitude of the N.E. trade-winds.
The island was discovered at about 4 A.M. on the 5th of
March, and when I went on deck at daylight, I found
the Japanese had swarmed out like ants on a sunny day,
all evincing the most exultant feelings of delight at the
sight of terra-firma—so much so, as to justify the belief
that they had entertained serious doubts, up to that time,
respecting the honesty of our intentions toward them, and
fears, perhaps, of our ever being able to find the land
again, after wandering so long over the trackless waste
of ocean. No suspicion of the kind was ever expressed,
of course, nor did the officials exhibit such exuberant joy
as their less intelligent and more artless attendants;
though it was quite natural that they should all experience
intense satisfaction at the prospect of a few days' respite
from the incessant tossing and tumbling of which their
experience of sea-life had consisted.


A G. R. ICU LTU R A L PRODUCTS. 397
are boiled and eaten, and are said to be both palatable
and nutritious. Camphor and varnish-trees are indi-
genous to the country; the former lives to a great age,
and sometimes attains an immense size. The country-
people make the camphor from a decoction of the root and
stems cut into small pieces. The mulberry-tree grows
wild in great abundance, and, as in China, is used to feed
the silk-worms. Ginger, pepper, cotton, and tobacco are
cultivated in considerable quantities; and there are, also,
extensive plantations of the tea-plant, though the quality
is said to be inferior to that grown in China, owing
greatly to the superior skill of the Chinese in preparing
it for use. The soil of Japan is not naturally fertile, but
patient and careful culture, favored by a genial climate,
has covered every spot, capable of improvement, with
vegetation. Sugar-cane is successfully cultivated; and
rice, which forms the principal food of the people, yields
two harvests yearly, the quality being superior to any
other known.
The bamboo-cane, although a tropical plant, is grown
in great perfection in the southern islands, and is ex-
tensively used in the manufacture of an infinite variety
of useful and ornamental articles. Oranges, lemons, figs,
plums, apricots, and grapes are found among the fruit-
trees of the country; and chestnuts and walnuts are in
great abundance all over the empire.
The first and fabulous epoch of the Japanese Govern-
ment reaches far beyond the time of the creation, as fixed
in sacred writ. Japan, they say, was during that period
of time governed by a succession, or evolution of seven
celestial spirits, or gods, which are called by them the
seven great celestial spirits, each of which reigned an im-
mense but undetermined number of years. The history


398 THE MIKADo, o R SPIRITUAL EMPERo R.
of the Japanese gods is full of strange and wonderful ad-
ventures, and great and bloody wars, which are said to
have happened in this first age of the Japanese world.
In the course of time, one of these gods became the
progenitor of a race of demi-gods, or god-men, who were
styled terrestrial gods or monarchs, the first of whom was
named Ten-sio-dai-sin, and he is still the supreme object
of adoration among the people. He is said to have
reigned 250,000 years, and from him the Mikados now
claim a lineal descent.
In the second, or doubtful era of Japanese history,
China had already become powerful, and the arts and
sciences flourished there, which were brought over by the
Chinese into Japan, where the people became in time
polite and civilized, and in imitation of their neighbors,
by whom they were imbued with notions of a monarchial
form of government, submitted to the rule of Sin-mu-
ten-00, a Prince descended from the beloved and sacred
family of Ten-sio-dai-sin.
The third and last epoch, the Monarchy, which is that
of their ecclesiastical hereditary Emperors, begins with
the year before Christ, 660. The Princes descended from
the great and holy family above named, are regarded as
Popes by birth; and in order to preserve this advantage-
ous notion in their subjects, their persons are held in
sacred veneration. They are not suffered to touch the
ground with their feet, nor to expose themselves to the
open air; the sun is not thought worthy to shine on their
heads. There is such holiness ascribed to all the parts
of their bodies, that neither their nails, beard, nor hair
are suffered to be cut.
The throne of the Mikado, or Dairi, as he is sometimes
styled, may be occupied by Princes or Princesses under


THE RELIGIONS OF JAPAN. 401
his capital city of Kagosima, which is said to contain a
population of half a million, he employed 800 men in the
manufacture of glassware, casting guns, and in other
mechanical works. There is an extensive coal-mine in
his province, but it has never been properly surveyed or
worked, because there has been no demand for the coal
until recently; and the Prince had not acquired sufficient
confidence in his Dutch friends before his death to employ
them for this purpose, although he had frequently invited
the Dutch Commissioner to visit him at his residence.
The religious denominations of Japan are so numerous,
and embrace such extensive and undefinable ramifications,
that a life-time would scarcely suffice to form a thorough
acquaintance with them; so I shall not presume to enter
upon any detailed account of the various forms and
ceremonies connected with this prolific subject, but con-
tent myself with stating the four principal divisions under
which the inhabitants of the country have been groping
for ages, in the darkness and inanities of paganism. They
are as follows:
1. Sinto, the old religion, or idol-worship of the
Japanese.
2. Budsdo, or Buddhist, the worship of foreign idols,
which were brought over from the kingdom of Siam, and
the Empire of China.
3. Siuto, the doctrine of their moralists and philoso-
phers.
4. Deivus, or Kiristando, the way of God and Christ,
which implies the Christian religion.
Beside these various sects, there are innumerable wor-
shippers of particular Kamis, of mountains, and other
objects of idolatry. They have weekly, monthly, and
annual religious festivals, in the observance of which they


THE SPY SYSTEM. 403
priests take care not to let their flock want so great a
benefit, by selling them what they call an Ofarrai, or
great purification; in other words, a certificate of the
absolution and remission of their sins; and these precious
documents are to be procured in any part of the Empire,
for a small consideration.
The extraordinary system of espionage which extends
throughout all ranks of society, completely extinguishes
individual freedom, by making every man a spy upon his
neighbor's actions, and rendering the detection and pun-
ishment of crime almost a certainty in every case. Its
results, however, cannot be otherwise than advantageous
to the internal peace and tranquillity of the country, as
vice in every form known to the heathen ideas of the
people is kept in check, and crime of any sort is exceed-
ingly rare; and there can be no cupidity or corruption
among the officials of a government whose interests are
guarded by such ubiquitous protection.
As a relief from the otherwise intolerable thraldom of
etiquette, and this constant personal espial, the highest
grandees of the country are permitted by general con-
sent to assume an incognito whenever they desire to in-
dulge in any amusement or employment which might be
considered derogatory to their dignity. By this happy
invention, which they call “nayboen,” and which is not
altogether unknown, though by a different name, in other
countries, the Tycoon himself may occasionally enjoy the
rare luxury of doing as he pleases, without sacrificing his
personal or official consequence; but the most singular
feature of this popular institution is, that it is made to
serve the purposes of the dead as well as the living. The
Tycoon sometimes dies “nayboen,” and the event is kept
as a profound secret from the public until his successor


404 DIVISION OF TIME.
has been fairly installed in the possession of his office;
thereby obviating any unseemly squabbles among the
heirs, and insuring the remains of the defunct a quiet
interment.
The Japanese divide the day into twelve hours, reckon-
ing six from sunrise to sunset, and an equal number from
sunset to sunrise; consequently, the hours are not always
equal; when the day is longer than the night, the day
hours are the longest, and vice versá. They have clocks
marked to indicate the twelve divisions of the day, each
of which is equal to two hours of our time, but they are
not remarkable for accuracy. The day with them begins
at midnight, at which time the clock strikes nine, after
having given three strokes to denote its being about to
strike the hour. These three strokes precede every hour.
One hour after midnight the clock strikes eight, the next
hour seven, at sunrise six, then five, and four, and at noon
again nine. The same rule applies to the hours of the
day, and each hour is designated by the name of some
animal, as follows:
1. The Mouse; 2. The Ox, or Cow; 3. The Tiger; 4.
The Hare; 5. The Dragon; 6. The Serpent; 7. The
Horse; 8. The Sheep; 9. The Monkey; 10. The Chicken;
11. The Dog; 12. The Boar.
The beginning of the Japanese year falls in between
the winter solstice and spring equinox, about the 5th of
February. But as they are extremely superstitious about
celebrating the day of the new moon, they commonly
begin it with the new moon which immediately precedes
or follows the 5th of February. Thus in the month of
January of this year, the Japanese new year was cele-
brated on the 23d of that month. The festivities attend-
ing this period are kept up during a whole month, by


FIN E A RTS IN JAPAN. 405
those whose circumstances will admit of their spending
so much time away from their ordinary employment; but
the majority of the people content themselves with a
holiday of less than half that period. During this time
they are expected to visit all their acquaintances within
reach, and to write to those who are at a distance, con-
gratulating them upon the continuance of their earthly
blessings, and the protection of the gods.
The Japanese have considerable skill in certain branches
of the fine arts. In the representation of a single object,
they exhibit great accuracy of detail, but they have no
idea of perspective, and but little of lights and shadows.
They have never attempted painting in oil colors, and
their water-color paintings are more remarkable for their
brilliancy than for artistic skill in copying nature. They
are ignorant of anatomy, and, therefore, their attempts
to portray the human form or face have nearly always the
appearance of caricatures. Their sculpture is decidedly
of the barbarous order, and architecture is not known
among them as an art—their temples, palaces, and pri-
vate dwellings, being all low and temporary structures,
generally of wood—the frequency of earthquakes pre-
venting them from bestowing the care and expense upon
their buildings which they would otherwise do.
The laws of the country are brief, clear, and compre-
sive, and their practical operations equally simple and
concise. There are no professional lawyers, every man
being deemed competent to plead his own cause. When
a person conceives himself aggrieved, he lays the case
before a magistrate, who summons the other party before
him; the case is stated by the complainant, after which
the accused is heard in his defence—witnesses on both
sides are then examined, and the magistrate gives his


406 EXECUTION OF THE LA W. S.
decision, from which there is no appeal, and which is
instantly executed. Difficult or very important cases
may be referred to the Emperor in Council, and some-
times in trifling matters the disputants are ordered to
settle the affair privately with the aid of their friends;
and it is well understood by them that a compromise must
be effected, or unpleasant consequences will be the result.
Some of their laws are exceedingly harsh, and all are
executed with the most rigid exactness; as, for instance,
if a prisoner is permitted to escape, the officer charged
with his confinement is immediately put to death; and,
frequently, even the governor of a city is made to pay
this cruel penalty for the negligent performance of duty
on the part of a subordinate. The law against theft is
no less rigorous, as it requires that a man must sooner
die of hunger than take a single grain of rice that does
not belong to him. No one is allowed to bear the same
name with the reigning Emperor.
The alphabet consists of forty-eight characters, and the
commonest people can read and write the language. The
Chinese hieroglyphics are used, but with a different sound
and signification; official papers and records are written
in this language. There is an essential difference between
the Chinese and Japanese languages—the latter being
polysyllabic while the former is monosyllabic; and this is
regarded as convincing proof of there being no direct
connection between the two races. The Japanese consider
it a mortal affront to be compared with the Chinese, and
Dr. Ainslie states that the only occcasion on which he
saw a Japanese surprised into a passion, and, forgetting
his habitual politeness, lay his hand on his sword, was on
a comparison being made between the two nations.
The Mandarin dialect of China is in use among the


N
DIAL ECTS OF JAPAN. 407
learned men of Japan, and hence many Chinese words
have been introduced into the Japanese, but these only
serve to make the structural difference the more striking.
The Yomi, or primitive language of Japan, is used in
poetry and works of light literature. The Kaye, or
Chinese language, slightly varied in pronunciation, is
employed by the bonzes, or priests, in their religious books.
The vulgar language of the country is a mixture of the
two. Close affinities have not been traced between the
Yomi of Japan and any other Asiatic language. By
some, at least, it is thought to be most analogous to the
languages of the Tartar race, to which, in spite of diver-
sity of physical characteristics, it is now most commonly
believed that the Japanese belong.
The country is cultivated too extensively to leave much
space for the multiplication of wild animals; and but little
animal food being eaten, the domestic class are only kept
as beasts of burden, and for plowing the ground. The
horses are small, but spirited, active, and hardy, though
with an incurable propensity to kick, which detracts
much from their value in the opinion of western people.
They are not used for draught, but the larger class are
frequently seen as pack-horses. They are used for riding
only by the nobility and their officers. Small bears,
hyenas, wild boars, deer, and immense numbers of foxes,
are among the principal wild animals. Dogs abound in
the streets of the towns, and are considered almost
sacred. It is a capital crime to put one of them to death,
and there are even persons appointed to protect them,
and hospitals where they are nursed in case of sickness.
I should judge they were exempt from the curse of the
canine race (hydrophobia), otherwise such perfect immu-
nity could not be granted them, save at fearful risk to
35


408 DOM ESTIC ANIMALS.
human life. There is a species of the race resembling
very much the King Charles breed, with the exception
that their noses are turned upward so abruptly as to pro-
duce the effect of being broken, and their eyes protrude
rather more. They are kept almost entirely as pets, and
taught many amusing tricks, being remarkably sagacious
and affectionate in disposition.
The feline inhabitants of the country are of a peculiar
description, from the fact of their being totally destitute
of the appendage which usually provokes the mischievous
propensities of children. Some doubts were entertained
among the officers of the Powhatan, during our first visit
to Japan, as to whether this was a natural or artificial
deprivation; but when one of those brought on board
produced a fine litter of tailless kittens, there was nothing
left to hang a doubt upon; and it only remained to specu-
late upon the probable causes of this peculiarity in Japan-
ese cats, and whether they regarded it as a blessing or a
curse, concerning which the opinions were various.
In the manufacture of cotton fabrics the Japanese dis-
play considerable skill, but do not equal the Hindoos in
this respect. Their best silk is said to be superior to
that of China; and in the manufacture of porcelain, they
are said by some to excel the Chinese. I am not pre-
pared to say, that as a general thing such is the case; but
from many specimens of great beauty and delicacy which
came under my notice, they are doubtless able to produce
very superior articles, though some assert that, owing to
the exhaustion of the best clay, such can no longer be
produced. There are two descriptions of porcelain made
in Japan, one frail and delicate—almost as transparent
as a soap-bubble, and appropriately called “egg-shell
china,” from its liability to be broken with a touch; and


J A PAN ES E M A N UF ACTURES. 409
the other apparently of a more durable description, from
its extreme thickness, though in reality nearly as brittle
as the first.
In the produce of Fizen, near Nagasaki, a coarser
quality of porcelain is manufactured on a large scale, and
the natives have learned from the Dutch, the patterns of
the various articles of their ware most in use among
Europeans, which they copy in form, but use their own
devices in the way of coloring and ornaments. A finer
description is also made in that province, having a pecu-
liar purity and smoothness of surface; but of this only a
few specimens were to be attained. At Yokuhama, the
European style of dinner and tea service could not be pro-
cured, the saki cups of various sizes, and sundry other
utensils of purely Japanese invention, being the only arti-
cles of this ware which could be purchased. Like the
Chinese, the Japanese have long practised the manufac-
ture of paper and glass. Formerly they did not under-
stand making the flat pane for window-glass, and proba-
bly what they make now is of inferior quality, as they
still purchase thick mirror-glass from the Dutch, to grind
into lenses.
The great source of revenue is the rent of land, with
an impost on houses, in the manner of a ground-rent.
There appears to be no tax on articles of consumption, no
capitation tax, and no transit duties. In lands belonging
to the crown, the proportion of the crop considered rent
is four parts in ten, and in the rest six in ten, most com-
monly the latter. These proportions apply to every kind
of crop—cotton, corn, and pulses. The land is surveyed
by sworn appraisers twice a year, in order to determine
the rent, once before the seed is sown, and again immedi-
ately before harvest. Those that cultivate untilled ground
have the whole crop for two or three years. Among their


412 MIN E R A L PRODUCTS OF JAPAN.
exceedingly sharp. They descend as heir-looms, from
one generation to another.
The geological formation of the Japanese islands has
never been thoroughly investigated, but they are unques-
tionably volcanic; not, however, to the exclusion of the
plutonic and sedimentary formations. The useful mine-
ral products, so far as known, are gold, silver, copper,
quicksilver, tin, lead, iron, coal, sulphur, salt, and zinc,
which are all abundant, with the exception of tin and iron.
Gold is sometimes found as ore, and, in some places, pro-
cured from washings of the earth or sand. Silver is
equally plentiful, and, until recently, appears to have been
regarded as equally valuable with gold. Both these
metals were exported by the Dutch and Portuguese,
during their exclusive trade with the country, in large
quantities. Iron was formerly held in as high esteem as
copper, tools made of this metal being sold even dearer
than those made of copper or brass. The low price of
copper when the trade was first opened with foreign
nations, caused the export of so large a quantity, that the
Government prohibited the sale of it, on the pretext that
all there was in the country was required in rebuilding
the Emperor's palace, which had recently been destroyed
by fire. Sulphur is very abundant, as might be expected
in so volcanic a region; in some places it lies in broad,
deep beds, and may be removed with as much ease as
sand. The Government derives a considerable revenue
from this source. Coal of a bituminous characteris found
in several parts of the country, but the mines are not
worked to any extent; charcoal being mostly used for
fuel. Agates of immense size, cornelians, jaspers, and
crystals are found in abundance, but no diamonds have
yet been discovered. Many of the ornaments and trinkets
found in the shops are made of white metal, resembling


414 CON CLU DING REM.A RIKS.
the nature and advantages of the trade with this long
secluded people, on which our far-seeing Yankee race are
beginning to found such brilliant hopes. In a free trade,
or any approach to it with Japan, we may suppose that
iron and steel, which are high priced commodities there,
will constitute a valuable import, and the cloths and
woollen fabrics generally, manufactured in this country,
together with plate-glass, mirrors, watches, clocks, jewelry,
hardware, saddlery, and various other Yankee produc-
tions, will meet with a ready sale in the ports of Japan
at the present day; while the artificial wants which must
inevitably be created by the constantly increasing inter-
course with foreigners, cannot fail to bring about an ex-
tensive interchange of the productions of the two coun-
tries. The elements of progress have been introduced,
and the ambition of the people to acquire knowledge of
every description, affords an infallible guarantee that
they will develop this uncontrollable principle, with a
degree of intelligence and powerhitherto unknown among
the nations of the East.
Much is, also, to be hoped for from the judicious and
zealous efforts that are being made by the able representa-
tives of the Missionary cause, who have already settled
at Kanagawa; and though ages may elapse before the
prejudices against the Christian religion are entirely over-
come, their influence will soon be felt, in the improvement
of the moral condition of the people among whom they
have been thrown; and Japan will, ere long, be acknow-
ledged as a worthy member of the great family of civilized,
enlightened, and progressive nations of the earth; and the
hope may reasonably be indulged that the blessings of
Christianity will not be withheld from a people by whom
they will be so highly appreciated, when once compre-
hended.


A PPEN DIX.
No. I.
CORRESPONDENCE RELATIVE TO THE ACTION OF
FLAG-OFFICER TATTNALL AT THE PEIHO RIVER,
June, 1859.
+ Admiral Hope to Flag-Officer Tattnall.
CoRoman DEL, Off the Peiho, 1st July, 1859.
SIR:—I have the honor to request you will accept my acknow-
ledgment of the services which you found it consistent with your
duty to permit your tender, the “Toeywan,” to render during the
25th ultimo, and especially in the conveyance of the wounded to
their vessels; and I beg you will accept my warmest thanks for the
saille. I have the honor to be, Sir,
Your Obedient Servant,
(Signed) J. HoPE,
Rear-Admiral and Commander-in-Chief.
FLAG-0Pficer TATTNALL, }
U. S. Steam-Frigate Powhatan.
Flag-Officer Tattnall to Admiral Hope.
U. S. STEAM-FRIGATE Powhat AN,
Flag-ship E. India Squadron, }
Off Peiho River, July 23, 1859.
SIR:—I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your com-
munication of the 1st inst., referring to the slight services it was in
my power to render your gallant squadron on the 25th ult.
2B (415)


COR RESPON DEN CE. 419
Flag-officer Tattnail to Secretary Toucey.
U. S. STEAM-FRIGATE Powhat AN. )
Hong Kong, China, 28th December, 1859. J
SIR:—I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your letter
of the 5th of October, containing the very gratifying intelligence
of the Department's approval of my course at the Peiho.
I have received from the hands of the British Admiral a copy of
a letter from Lord Lyons, relative to the same affair, of which I in-
close a copy. I am, sir, with great respect,
Your obedient servant,
(Signed) Josiah TATTNALL.
Flag-officer on return from command of
East India Squadron.
HoN. I. Toucey, }
Secretary of the Navy.
Flag-officer Tattnall to Admiral Hope.
U. S. STEAM-FRIGATE º
Hong Kong, December 28th, 1859.
SIR: — I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your com-
munication of the 27th inst., and its accompaniment, the copy of a
letter from H. B. M. Minister at Washington, to H. M. Secretary
of State for Foreign Affairs, relative to the part taken by the
American Minister and myself in the affair of the Peiho.
I have the honor to be, etc.
(Signed) Josiah TATTNALL.
Flag-officer, etc.
Commander-in-Chief H. B. M. Naval Forces
Rear Admiral. J. Hope,
in India and China. }
Admiral Hope to the Commander of any British Wessel-of-war
at Yedo.
ChEsAPEAKE, AT Hong Kong, 30th December, 1859.
SIR: – Should Flag-officer Tattnall be desirous of proceeding in
the vessel you command to “Nagasaki,” it is my direction that you
36 f


No. II.
TREATY OF TIENT'S IN.
BY THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.
A PROCLAMATION.
Whereas a treaty between the United States of America and
the Ta-Tsing Empire was concluded and signed at Tientsin by
their respective plenipotentiaries, on the eighteenth day of June,
1858, which treaty is, word for word, as follows:
The United States of America and the Ta-Tsing Empire, desiring
to maintain firm, lasting, and sincere friendship, have resolved
to renew, in a manner clear and positive, by means of a treaty or
general convention of peace, amity, and commerce, the rules
which shall in future be mutually observed in the intercourse of
their respective countries; for which most desirable object the
President of the United States and the august sovereign of the
Ta-Tsing Empire have named for their plenipotentaries, to wit:
the President of the United States of America, William B. Reed,
Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to China; and
his Majesty the Emperor of China, Kweiliang, a member of the
Privy Council and Superintendent of the Board of Punishments;
and Hwashana, President of the Board of Civil Office and Major
General of the Bordered Blue Banner Division of the Chinese
Banner-men, both of them being Imperial Commissioners and
Plenipotentiaries; and the said ministers, in virtue of the respect-
ive full powers they have received from their governments, have
agreed upon the following articles:
ARTICLE I.
There shall be, as there have always been, peace and friendship
between the United States of America and the Ta-Tsing Empire,
(421)


TREATY OF TIENTS IN. 425
with the local officers of the Chinese government, (a consul or vice-
consul in charge taking rank with an intendant of curcuit or a pre-
fect,) either personally or in writing, as occasion may require, on
terms of equality and reciprocal respect. And the consuls and
local officers shall employ the style of mutual communication. If
the officers of either nation are disrespectfully treated or aggrieved
in any way by the other authorities, they have the right to make
representation of the same to the superior officers of the respective
governments, who shall see that full inquiry and strict justice shall
be had in the premises. And the said consuls and agents shall
carefully avoid all acts of offence to the officers and people of China.
On the arrival of a consul duly accredited at any portin China, it shall
be the duty of the minister of the United States to notify the same to
the governor general of the province where such port is, who shall
forthwith recognize the said consul and grant him authority to act.
ARTICLE XI.
All citizens of the United States of America in China, peaceably
attending to their affairs, being placed on a common footing of amity
and good will with subjects of China, shall receive and enjoy for
themselves and everything appertaining to them the protection of
the local authorities of government, who shall defend them from all
insult or injury of any sort. If their dwellings or property be threat-
ened or attacked by mobs, incendiaries, or other violent or lawless
persons, the local officers, on requisition of the consul, shall imme-
diately despatch a military force to disperse the rioters, apprehend
the guilty individuals, and punish them with the utmost rigor of
the law. Subjects of China guilty of any criminal act towards citi-
zens of the United States shall be punished by the Chinese authori-
ties according to the laws of China; and citizens of the United States,
either on shore or in any merchant vessel, who may insult, trouble,
or wound the persons or injure the property of Chinese, or commit
any other improper act in China, shall be punished only by the
consul or other public functionary thereto authorized, according to
the laws of the United States. Arrests in order to trial may be made
by either the Chinese or the United States authorities.
ARTICLE XII.
Citizens of the United States, residing or sojourning at any of the
ports open to foreign commerce, shall be permitted to rent houses


428 APPENDIX.
ing to the tonnage specified in the register; which, with her other
papers, shall, on her arrival, be lodged with the consul, who shall
report the same to the commissioner of customs. And if any vessel,
having paid tonnage duty at one port, shall go to any other port to
complete the disposal of her cargo, or being in ballast, to purchase
an entire or fill up an incomplete cargo, the consul shall report the
same to the commissioner of customs, who shall note on the port
clearance that the tonnage duties have been paid, and report the
circumstances to the collectors at the other custom-houses; in which
case, the said vessel shall only pay duty on her cargo, and not be
charged with tonnage duty a second time. The collectors of cus-
toms at the open ports shall consult with the consuls about the
erection of beacons or light-houses, and where buoys and light-ships
should be placed.
ARTICLE XVII.
Citizens of the United States shall be allowed to engage pilots to
take their vessels into port, and, when the lawful duties have all
been paid, take them out of port. It shall be lawful for them to
hire at pleasure servants, compradores, linguists, writers, laborers,
seamen, and persons for whatever necessary service, with passage
or cargo boats, for a reasonable compensation, to be agreed upon by
the parties or determined by the consul.
ARTICLE XVIII.
Whenever merchant vessels of the United States shallenter a port,
the collector of customs shall, if he see fit, appoint custom-house
officers to guard said vessels, who may live on board the ship or
their own boats, at their convenience. The local authorities of the
Chinese government shall cause to be apprehended all mutineers or
deserters from on board the vessels of the United States in China on
being informed by the consul, and will deliver them up to the con-
suls or other officer for punishment. And if criminals, subjects of
China, take refuge in the houses or on board the vessels of citizens
of the United States, they shall not be harbored or concealed, but
shall be delivered up to justice on due requisition by the Chinese
local officers, addressed to those of the United States. The mer-
chants, seamen, and other citizens of the United States shall be
under the superintendence of the appropriate officers of their govern-
ment. If individuals of either nation commit acts of violence or dis-


432 A PPEN DIX.
whatever, and should for that cause exclude such nation from enter-
ing her ports, still the vessels of the United States shall not the less
continue to pursue their commerce in freedom and security, and to
transport goods to and from the ports of the belligerent powers, full
respect being paid to the neutrality of the flag of the United States:
provided, that the said flag shall not protect vessels engaged in the
transportation of officers or soldiers in the enemy's service, nor shall
said flag be fraudulently used to enable the enemy's ships, with
their cargoes, to enter the ports of China; but all such vessels so
offending shall be subject to forfeiture and confiscation to the
Chinese government.
ARTICLE XXVII.
All questions in regard to rights, whether of property or person,
arising between citizens of the United States in China, shall be
subject to the jurisdiction and regulated by the authorities of their
own government; and all controversies occurring in China between
citizens of the United States and the subjects of any other govern-
ment shall be regulated by the treaties existing between the United
States and such governments, respectively, without interference on
the part of China.
ARTICLE XXVIII.
If citizens of the United States have special occasion to address
any communication to the Chinese local officers of government, they
shall submit the same to their consul or other officer, to determine
if the language be proper and respectful, and the matter just and
right, in which event he shall transmit the same to the appropriate
authorities for their consideration and action in the premises. If
subjects of China have occasion to address the consul of the United
States, they may address him directly at the same time they inform
their own officers, representing the case for his consideration and
action in the premises; and if controversies arise between citizens
of the United States and subjects of China, which cannot be ami-
cably settled otherwise, the same shall be examined and decided
conformably to justice and equity by the public officers of the two
nations, acting in conjunction. The extortion of illegal fees is ex-
pressly prohibited. Any peaceable persons are allowed to enter the
court in order to interpret, lest injustice be done.


TREATY of YED.o. 437
American citizens may permanently reside; they shall have the
right to lease ground, and purchase the buildings thereon, and may
erect dwellings and warehouses. But no fortification or place of
military strength shall be erected under pretence of building dwell-
ings or warehouses; and to see that this article is observed, the
Japanese authorities shall have the right to inspect, from time to
time, any buildings which are being erected, altered, or repaired.
The place which the Americans shall occupy for their buildings,
and the harbor regulations, shall be arranged by the American con-
sul and the authorities of each place, and if they cannot agree the
matter shall be referred to and settled by the American diplomatic
agent and the Japanese government.
No wall, fence, or gate shall be erected by the Japanese around
the place of residence of the Americans, or anything done which
may prevent a free egress and ingress to the same.
From the (1st of January, 1862,) first day of January, one
thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, Americans shall be allowed
to reside in the city of Yedo; and from the (1st of January, 1863,)
first day of January, one thousand eight hundred and sixty-three,
in the city of Osaca, for the purposes of trade only. In each of
these two cities a suitable place within which they may hire houses,
and the distance they may go, shall be arranged by the American
diplomatic agent and the government of Japan. Americans may
freely buy from Japanese and sell to them any articles that either
may have for sale, without the intervention of any Japanese officers
in such purchase or sale, or in making or receiving payment for the
same; and all classes of Japanese may purchase, sell, keep, or use
any articles sold to them by the Americans.
The Japanese government will cause this clause to be made public
in every part of the empire as soon as the ratifications of this treaty
shall be exchanged.
Munitions of war shall only be sold to the Japanese government
and foreigners.
No rice or wheat shall be exported from Japan as cargo, but all
Americans resident in Japan, and ships, for their crews and pas-
sengers, shall be furnished with sufficient supplies of the same.
The Japanese government will sell, from time to time, at public
auction, any surplus quantity of copper that may be produced.
Americans residing in Japan shall have the right to employ Japan-
ese as servants or in any other capacity.


438 APPENDIx.
ARTICLE IV.
Duties shall be paid to the government of Japan on all goods
landed in the country, and on all articles of Japanese production
that are exported as cargo, according to the tariff hereunto appended.
If the Japanese custom-house officers are dissatisfied with the
value placed on any goods by the owner, they may place a value
thereon, and offer to take the goods at that valuation. If the
owner refuses to accept the offer, he shall pay duty on such valua-
tion. If the offer be accepted by the owner, the purchase money
shall be paid to him without delay, and without any abatement or
discount.
Supplies for the use of the United States navy may be landed at
Kanagawa, Hakodadi, and Nagasaki, and stored in warehouses, in
the custody of an officer of the American government, without the
payment of any duty. But, if any such supplies are sold in Japan,
the purchaser shall pay the proper duty to the Japanese authorities.
The importation of opium is prohibited, and any American vessel
coming to Japan for the purposes of trade, having more than three
(3) catties (four pounds avoirdupois) weight of opium on board,
such surplus quantity shall be seized and destroyed by the Japan-
ese authorities. All goods imported into Japan, and which have
paid the duty fixed by this treaty, may be transported by the
Japanese into any part of the empire without the payment of any
tax, excise, or transit duty whatever.
No higher duties shall be paid by Americans on goods imported
into Japan than are fixed by this treaty, nor shall any higher duties
be paid by Americans than are levied on the same description of
goods if imported in Japanese vessels, or the vessels of any other
nation. -
ARTICLE W.
All foreign coin shall be current in Japan and pass for its cor-
responding weight of Japanese coin of the same description.
Americans and Japanese may freely use foreign or Japanese coin
in making payments to each other.
As some time will elapse before the Japanese will be acquainted
with the value of foreign coin, the Japanese government will, for
the period of one year after the opening of each harbor, furnish the
Americans with Japanese coin, in exchange for theirs, equal weight
being given and no discount taken for recoinage. Coins of all de-


TREATY OF YE DO . 439
scription (with the exception of Japanese copper coin) may be ex-
ported from Japan, and foreign gold and silver uncoined.
ARTICLE WI.
Americans committing offences against Japanese shall be tried in
American consular courts, and when guilty shall be punished ac-
cording to American law. Japanese committing offences against
Americans shall be tried by the Japanese authorities and punished
according to Japanese law. The consular courts shall be open to
Japanese creditors, to enable them to recover their just claims
against American citizens, and the Japanese courts shall in like
manner be open to American citizens for the recovery of their just
claims against Japanese.
All claims for forfeitures or penalties for violations of this treaty,
or of the articles regulating trade which are appended hereunto,
shall be sued for in the consular courts, and all recoveries shall be
delivered to the Japanese authorities.
Neither the American or Japanese governments are to be held
responsible for the payment of any debts contracted by their respect-
ive citizens or subjects.
ARTICLE VII.
In the opened harbors of Japan Americans shall be free to go,
where they please, within the following limits:
At Kanagawa, the River Logo, (which empties into the Bay of
Yedo between Kawasaki and Sinagawa,) and (10) ten ri in another
direction.
At Hakodadi, (10) ten ri in any direction.
At Hiogo, (10) tenri in any direction, that of Kioto excepted, which
city shall not be approached nearer than (10) ten ri. The crews of
vessels resorting to Hiogo shall not cross the River Enagawa, which
empties into the Bay between Hiogo and Osaca. The distances
shall be measured inland from Goyoso, or town hall, of each of the
foregoing harbors, the ri being equal to (4,275) four thousand two
hundred and seventy-five yards, American measure.
At Nagasaki Americans may go into any part of the imperial do-
main in its vicinity. The boundaries of Nee-e-gata, or the place
that maybe substituted for it, shall be settled by the American
diplomatic agent and the government of Japan. Americans who
have been convicted of felony, or twice convicted of misdemeanors,


440 A PPENDIX.
shall not go more than (1) one Japanese ri inland from the places
of their respective residences, and all persons so convicted shall lose
their right of permanent residence in Japan, and the Japanese
authorities may require them to leave the country. -
A reasonable time shall be allowed to all such persons to settle
their affairs, and the American consular authority shall, after an
examination into the circumstances of each case, determine the time
to be allowed, but such time shall not in any case exceed one year,
to be calculated from the time the person shall be free to attend to
his affairs.
ARTICLE VIII.
Americans in Japan shall be allowed the free exercise of their
religion, and for this purpose shall have the right to erect suitable
places of worship. No injury shall be done to such buildings, nor
any insult be offered to the religious worship of the Americans.
American citizens shall not injure any Japanese temple or mia, or
offer any insult or injury to Japanese religious ceremonies, or to the
objects of their worship.
The Americans and Japanese shall not do anything that may be
calculated to excite religious animosity. The government of Japan
has already abolished the practice of trampling on religious emblems.
Article IX.
When requested by the American consul, the Japanese authori-
ties will cause the arrest of all deserters and fugitives from justice,
receive in jail all persons held as prisoners by the consul, and give
to the consul such assistance as may be required to enable him to
enforce the observance of the laws by the Americans who are on
land, and to maintain order among the shipping. For all such ser-
vice, and for the support of prisoners kept in confinement, the con-
sul shall in all cases pay a just compensation.
ARTICLE X.
The Japanese government may purchase or construct in the
United States ships of war, steamers, merchant ships, whale ships,
cannon, munitions of war, and arms of all kinds, and any other
things it may require. It shall have the right to engage in the
United States scientific, naval and military men, artizans of all
kinds, and mariners to enter into its service. All purchases made


º TREATY OF YE DO . 441
for the government of Japan may be exported from the United States,
and all persons engaged for its service may freely depart from the
United States: Provided, That no articles that are contraband of war
shall be exported, nor any persons engaged to act in a naval or
military capacity, while Japan shall be at war with any power in
amity with the United States.
ARTICLE XI.
The articles for the regulation of trade, which are appended to
this treaty, shall be considered as forming a part of the same, and
shall be equally binding on both the contracting parties to this
treaty, and on their citizens and subjects.
ARTICLE XII.
Such of the provisions of the treaty made by Commodore Perry,
and signed at Kanagawa, on the 31st of March, 1854, as conflict
with the provisions of this treaty are hereby revoked; and as all
the provisions of a convention executed by the consul general of the
United States and the governors of Simoda, on 17th of June, 1857,
are incorporated in this treaty, that convention is also revoked.
The person charged with the diplomatic relations of the United
States in Japan, in conjunction with such person or persons as may
be appointed for that purpose by the Japanese government, shall
have power to make such rules and regulations as may be required
to carry into full and complete effect the provisions of this treaty,
and the provisions of the articles regulating trade appended there-
unto.
ARTICLE XIII.
After the (4th of July, 1872) fourth day of July, one thousand eight
hundred and seventy-two, upon the desire of either the American
or Japanese governments, and on one year's notice given by either
party, this treaty, and such portions of the treaty of Kanagawa as
remain unrevoked by this treaty, together with the regulations of
trade hereunto annexed, or those that may be hereafter introduced,
shall be subject to revision by commissioners appointed on both
sides for this purpose, who will be empowered to decide on, and
insert therein, such amendments as experience shall prove to be
desirable.


442 A PPEND IX.
Article XIV.
This treaty shall go into effect on the (4th of July, 1859) fourth
day of July, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred
and fifty-nine, on or before which day the ratifications of the same
shall be exchanged at the city of Washington; but if, from any un-
foreseen cause, the ratifications cannot be exchanged by that time,
the treaty shall still go into effect at the date above-mentioned.
The act of ratification on the part of the United States shall be
verified by the signature of the President of the United States,
countersigned by the Secretary of State, and sealed with the seal
of the United States.
The act of ratification on the part of Japan shall be verified by
the name and seal of his Majesty the Ty-Coon, and by the seals and
signatures of such of his high officers as he may direct.
This treaty is executed in quadruplicate, each copy being written
in the English, Japanese, and Dutch languages, all the versions
having the same meaning and intention, but the Dutch version shall
be considered as being the original.
In witness whereof, the above-named plenipotentiaries have here-
unto set their hands and seals, at the city of Yedo, this twenty-
ninth day of July, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hun-
dred and fifty-eight, and of the independence of the United States
of America the eighty-third, corresponding to the Japanese era, the
nineteenth day of the sixth month of the fifth year of Ansei Mma.
TOWNSEND HARRIS. [seal.]
Regulations under which American trade is to be conducted
in Japan.
REGULATIoN FIRST.
Within (48) forty-eight hours (Sundays excepted) after the
arrival of an American ship in a Japanese port, the captain or com-
mander shall exhibit to the Japanese custom-house authorities the
receipt of the American consul, showing that he has deposited the
ship's register and other papers, as required by the laws of the
United States, at the American consulate, and he shall then make
an entry of his ship, by giving a written paper, stating the name of
the ship, and the name of the port from which she comes, her ton-


444 APPENDIX.
Packages of goods made up with an attempt to defraud the reve-
nue of Japan, by concealing therein articles of value which are not
set forth in the invoice, shall be forfeited.
American ships that shall smuggle, or attempt to smuggle, goods
in any of the non-opened harbors of Japan, all such goods shall be
forfeited to the Japanese government, and the ship shall pay a fine
of ($1,000) one thousand dollars for each offence. Wessels needing
repairs may land their cargoes for that purpose without the pay-
ment of duty. All goods so landed shall remain in charge of the
Japanese authorities, and all just charges for storage, labor, and
supervision shall be paid thereon. But if any portion of such cargo
be sold, the regular duties shall be paid on the portion so disposed
of Cargo may be transhipped to another vessel in the same harbor
without the payment of duty; but all transhipments shall be made
under the supervision of Japanese officers, and after satisfactory
"proof has been given to the custom-house authorities of the bona
fide nature of the transaction, and also under a permit to be granted
for that purpose by such authorities. The importation of opium
being prohibited, if any person or persons shall smuggle, or attempt
to smuggle, any opium, he or they shall pay a fine of ($15) fifteen
dollars for each catty of opium so smuggled or attempted to be
smuggled; and if more than one person shall be engaged in the
offence, they shall collectively be held responsible for the payment
of the foregoing penalty.
REGULATIon THIRD.
The owner or consignee of any goods, who desires to land them,
shall make an entry of the same at the Japanese custom-house.
The entry shall be in writing, and shall set forth the name of the
person making the entry, and the name of the ship in which the
goods were imported, and the marks, numbers, packages, and the
contents thereof, with the value of each package extended separately
in one amount, and at the bottom of the entry shall be placed the
aggregate value of all the goods contained in the entry. On each
entry the owner or consignee shall certify, in writing, that the
entry then presented exhibits the actual cost of the goods, and that
nothing has been concealed whereby the customs of Japan would be
defrauded; and the owner or consignee shall sign his name to such
certificate.


TREATY OF YE DO. 445
The original invoice or invoices of the goods so entered shall be
presented to the custom-house authorities, and shall remain in their
possession until they have examined the goods contained in the
entry.
The Japanese officers may examine any or all of the packages so
entered, and for this purpose may take them to the custom-house,
but such examination shall be without expense to the importer or
injury to the goods, and after examination, the Japanese shall
restore the goods to their original condition in the packages, (so far
as may be practicable,) and such examination shall be made with-
out any unreasonable delay.
If any owner or importer discovers that his goods. have been
damaged on the voyage of importation before such goods have been
delivered to him, he may notify the custom-house authorities of such
damage, and he may have the damaged goods appraised by two or
more competent and disinterested persons, who, after due examina-
tion, shall make a certificate setting forth the amount per cent. of
damage on each separate package, describing it by its mark and
number, which certificates shall be signed by the appraisers in pre-
sence of the custom-house authorities, and the importer may attach
the certificate to his entry, and make a corresponding deduction
from it. But this shall not prevent the custom-house authorities
from appraising the goods in the manner provided in article fourth
of the treaty, to which these regulations are appended.
After the duties have been paid, the owner shall receive a permit
authorizing the delivery to him of the goods, whether the same are
at the custom-house or on ship-board. All goods intended to be ex-
ported shall be entered at the Japanese custom-house before they
are placed on ship-board. The entry shall be in writing, and shall
state the name of the ship by which the goods are to be exported,
with the marks and numbers of the packages, and the quantity,
description, and value of their contents. The exporter shall certify
in writing that the entry is a true account of all the goods contained
therein, and shall sign his name thereto. Any goods that are put
on board of a ship for exportation before they have been entered at
the custom-house, and all packages which contain prohibited arti-
cles, shall be forfeited to the Japanese government.
No entry at the custom-house shall be required for supplies for
the use of ships, their crews and passengers, nor for the clothing,
etc., of passengers.


TREATY OF YE DO. 447
Regulation Seventh.
Duties shall be paid to the Japanese government on all goods
landed in the country according to the following tariff:
Class One. — All articles in this class shall be free of duty.
Gold and silver, coined or uncoined.
Wearing apparel in actual use.
Household furniture and printed books not intended for sale, but
the property of persons who come to reside in Japan.
Class Two.—Aduty of (5) five percent. shall be paid on the follow-
ing articles: All articles used for the purpose of building, rigging,
repairing, or fitting out of ships; whaling gear of all kinds; salted
provisions of all kinds; bread and breadstuffs; living animals of
all kinds; coals; timber for building houses; rice; paddy; steam
machinery; zinc.; lead; tin; raw silk.
Class Three.—A duty of (35) thirty-five per cent. shall be paid
on all intoxicating liquors, whether prepared by distillation, fer-
mentation, or in any other manner. -
Class Four. — All goods not included in any of the preceding
classes shall pay a duty of (20) twenty per cent.
All articles of Japanese production, which are exported as cargo,
shall pay a duty of (5) five per cent., with the exception of gold and
silver coin and copper in bars. (5) Five years after the opening of
Kanagawa the import and export duties shall be subject to revision
if the Japanese government desires it.
TOWNSEND HARRIS. [.. s.]
And whereas the said treaty has been duly ratified on both
parts, and the respective ratifications of the same were exchanged
at Washington on the 22d inst. by Lewis Cass, Secretary of State
of the United States, and Simme Boozen no Kami, Muragaki
Awadsi no Kami, and Ogure Bungo no Kami, Envoys Extra-
ordinary and Ministers Plenipotentiary of his Majesty the Ty-
Coon of Japan, on the part of their respective governments:
Now, therefore, be it known that I, JAMEs BUCHANAN,
President of the United States of America, have caused the said
treaty to be made public, to the end that the same, and every
38 + 2D


JOHNSTON'S NATURAL PHILOSOPHIES
JOHNSTON'S NATURAL PHILOSOPHY.
A MANUAL OF NATURAL PHILOSOPHY,
compiled FRom various sources, AND DEsigned as A
T EXT-B 0 0 K IN HIGH SCH 0.0 L S AND A C A D F M I E S.
BY JOHN JOHNSTON, LL.D.
professort of natural science in the wesleyan universitºr.
Rlustrateb hoſtb &bree 3Rumbrell amb Chfrty=&ſmo 13mgrabſngs on 8&oob.
A New and Revised Edition,
ENLARGED AND improved.
In one volume, 12mo., 379 pages, half turkey-morocco binding. Price, $1.
The present edition of this work will be found much enlarged and greatly im
proved. Exact in its definitions, original in its illustrations, full and familiar in
explanations, the publisher feels confident that an examination of the work cannot
fail to result in its decided approval. Recently it has been recommended for use
in the common schools by the Board of Education of the State of New Hampshire.
It has also been adopted in the High School of Cambridge, Massachusetts, and in
Girard College, Philadelphia, as well as in many Academies and Schools in various
sections of the Union,
86


H.
ii.





University of MICHIGAN
|||||||||
Reviewed by Preservation
1995
DO NOT REMOVE
OR
""