.-jiuionpiAlished byDsy&Soivljiuitfid.Gate Str'-Lincolnshvi Fred, W ..'


SKETCHES
(IF
JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
r.\
J. M. W. SILVER,
LIEUTENANT ROYAL IM-A-ZRINES, LIGHT USTFA.N'TItY.
(LATE OF THE ROYAL MARINE BATTALION FORSERVICE IN JAPAN.)
Illustrate bg l&ntibt gratoings,
REPRODUCED IN FACSIMILEBY MEANS OP CHROMO-LITHOGRAPHY.
LONDON:
DAY AND SON, LIMITED,
lUtljotjiapijtnS ants ^ublisfljttsi,
0 GATE STREET, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS, W.C.
18G7.
[The right of translation it retei'ved.]


I-.5- **£
TO
COLONEL SIR EDMUND SAUNDERSON PRIDEAUX,
BART.
Dear Sir Edmund,
These few 'Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs'
were collected during the years 1864-5, at which time I was
attached to the Battalion of Royal Marines for service in Japan,
and it is now very pleasing to have the privilege of dedicating
them to one who was the friend and companion-in-arms of my
late Father.
In memory of this bond of friendship, and in grateful ac-
knowledgment of the many kindnesses you have shown me, this
Dedication of my humble efforts to assist in the elucidation of the
social condition of a distant and comparatively unknown race,
affords me deep gratification.
With much respect and esteem, I am,
Dear Sir Edmund,
Very faithfully yours,
J. M. W. SILVER.
Royal Marine Barracks, Forton,
January 29th, 1867.


CONTENTS.
CHAPTER PAGEI. FESTIVALS AND HOLIDAYS 1
II. FIRES AND FIRE-BRIGADES 6
III. DOMESTIC LIFE 10
IV. THE TYCOON, DAIMIOS, AND ARISTOCRACY 14
V. THE COURT OF THE MIKADO 20
VI. THE 'HARA EJRU' 24
VII. NATIONAL GAMES AND AMUSEMENTS 29
VIII. CRIMES AND PUNISHMENTS 34
IX. SUPERSTITIONS AND RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCES 39
X. ON THE TOKATDO AND IN THE TEA-HOUSES 43
XI. THE SPY SYSTEM — THE BATH-HOUSE 46
XII. LOVE OF FLOWERS 49






ERRATA.
In Page 2, after 'crimson streamers,' there should be a semicolon.
,, 8, for ' Yokahama,' read ' Yokohama.'
Note, page 9, for ' the people,' read 1 they.'


I


2 JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
of Gongen Sama, the great general to whom the present dynasty owes its
existence; and the Japanese date their births from this festival, even if
born the day after its last celebration.
It has several curious symbols, the most striking being huge aerial
fishes, in imitation of the 'koi, ' or 'carp;' large crimson streamers, repre-
sentations of Gongen Sama crushing a demon; and the heads and tails
of crayfish, with which they decorate their dishes and the entrances
of their houses. The floating fish flag is hoisted over every house in
which a boy has been born during the preceding twelve months, and is
emblematical of his future career. As the 'koi,' or 'carp,' which is very
plentiful in Japan, finds its way up streams and rivers, surmounting all
obstacles in its way, and rendering itself by its fecundity and edible
qualities useful to the whole country, so the child is to make his way
through life, boldly fulfilling his destiny, and proving himself a useful
and beneficial member of the community. In the same way, the scarlet
streamer indicates the birth of a female child, and the domestic nature
of her duties. The crayfish are used to remind the people of their humble
origin (it being traditionary that the empire originated from a race of
poor fishermen), and the consequent necessity of humility, temperance,
and frugality, in their different stations in life.'' Various qualities are ascribed to the hero of this festival: he is con-
sidered the especial champion of women, for whose protection he instituted
several laws and regulations; among others, making it obligatory on
them to blacken their teeth on entering into the married state. He is
believed to be able to charm away fevers, to alleviate suffering, and to
prevent the lives of his protegees from being embittered by jealousy.
During the celebration of this festival the whole country presents an
extraordinary appearance; aerial fishes, streamers, and bamboo decorations,
* The slice of salt-fish which accompanies Japanese letters is an exhortation to the same
effect.


FESTIVALS AND HOLIDAYS.
meet the eye in every direction; and the people in gala costume, which
is always worn on holidays, greatly enhance the brilliancy of the scene.
The gala dress is much gayer than that ordinarily worn, but there
is little difference in the material, the dress of every class being regulated
by stringent sumptuary laws. Blues and purples predominate in winter,
the lighter and more varied colours being generally confined to materials
only adapted for summer use. The ladies have a great partiality for crimson
crape, which is generally worn as an under-robe, and peeps daintily out
at the bottom of the dress, and at the wide open
sleeves; it is also entwined in the hair, and with
the girdle, at the back of which it is allowed to
droop in full, graceful folds. The men do not affect
such bright colours as the women and children, al-
though their robes are often fantastically embroidered
with various strange devices, such as shell-fish, frogs,
flowers, and landscapes, some of which are beautifully
worked.
The whole populace on these occasions seem deter-
mined to enjoy themselves; the air of good-natured
contentment, which characterises them at all times,
taking a more exuberant tone as they stroll about the
streets, visit in family parties, or make excursions
to the neighbouring tea-houses. Thoroughly domestic [Prom photograpt i
in their tastes and habits, it is a pleasing sight to watch the family
groups. Here a grand-dame is carefully assisted along by her son and
daughter-in-law, preceded by chattering grandchildren in the gayest of
dresses, tugging at extraordinary kites; or a father, in the doorway of
his house, nurses one child, while the mother exhibits for the admira-
tion of sympathizing friends another infant—probably one of the unconscious
objects of all this rejoicing.
Though the men frequently exceed the bounds of sobriety on these

Mother and Child.


JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
festivals and holidays, they rarely become quarrelsome. It is, however, by
no means unusual for them to keep in a state of intoxication for days;
alleging this, with perfect sangfroid, as an excuse for any neglected promise
or unfinished job.
The 'Omatsurie,' or 'Merchants' Great Festival,' which is only celebrated
in the principal towns, takes place about the middle of July, and may
be considered to be an exhibition of the different trades, as the merchants
and craftsmen of the country show the choicest specimens of their wares
and handicraft in a kind of trades' pro-
cession Like all the rest of their fes-
tivals it has a religious signification, the
people believing that misfortunes in busi-
ness are warded off by it. Upwards of
five hundred trade trophies figure in one
of these processions, the imposing nature
of which may be imagined from the
gorgeous materials and fantastic dresses
depicted in the illustration. The car in
the foreground bears the trophy of the
wax-figure makers, whose trade is one of
the most lucrative in Japan, as the Ja-
panese not only perpetuate their cele-
brities by wax-work effigies, but the majority of the people, being pro-
fessors of the Sintoo religion, have Lares and Penates of the same
material, called 'Kamis,' which are supposed to intercede on their behalf
with the Supreme Being. And this is in addition to regular wax-work
exhibitions, which are very popular, and the sale of toys which are
hawked about the country by travelling dealers.
The merchants have a general right of entree to all parts of the town on
these occasions. In the illustration, the procession is passing through the
official quarter of Yeddo, the Tycoon's palace forming the subject of the

Travelling Merchant. [Native Drawing.]





FESTIVALS AND HOLIDAYS.
background. They halt from time to time in their progress, which is
enlivened by songs descriptive of their various callings, and the beating of
huge drums, and blowing of strange discordant instruments. There is
a kind of analogy between our industrial exhibitions and these festivals;
and, whatever the purpose may be for which they were originated, it is plain
that they admirably represent the industry, wealth, and resources of the
country.
'Otinta Sama' is a comical divinity, who is
laughed at by some, and believed by others to
inhabit certain miniature temples, which are //
crowned with cocks with outspread wings, as that
bird is supposed to be his favourite incarnation.
On holidays and festivals, his temples are fre-
quently carried about on the shoulders of his
votaries, who are generally the most ignorant
and superstitious of the people. This is always a
subject of merriment with the unbelievers, who
crowd round the temples and oppose their progress,
and indulge in witticisms at the expense of the divinity and his . bearers.
This sometimes leads to a disturbance, but only when the parties concerned
have been indulging too freely in their favourite saki.
The intercession of Otinta Sama is principally sought in times of drought
or of heavy rains; the temple in the one case being brought out and exposed
to the sun, and in the other sprinkled with water, by way of intimating
the immediate necessity for his good offices.

x.
Saki-drunk.
[Native Drawing ]


12
JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.

then to the bridegroom, and both partake of the contents, which act con-
stitutes the marriage.
Although young ladies are employed to mix the nuptial saki they do not
attend on the bride. Such offices as are
required are performed by a married
couple, the shewarin and his wife. It is
they who make the necessary arrange-
ments, and provide the pheasants that
appear in the recess; which signify that
the hanna-moko, like the cock-pheasant,
will always jealously guard his charmer,
who, like the shy hen-bird, will readily
respond to the call of her mate.
A more practical idea of the require-
ADo«ofMoxa. [Native Drawing.j ments of married life may be deduced
from the annexed woodcut, representing the application of moxa, which is
very commonly used as a remedy for rheumatism, and to promote circulation.
Japanese women make excellent wives: they are never idle in their
houses; and when other occupations fail them, the spinning-wheel, or loom,
is brought out, and materials for
clothing their families are prepared.
In the country, the women share
equally with their husbands and
children in agricultural. labours;
early and late whole families may
be seen in the paddy-fields trans-
planting rice, or superintending its
irrigation, for which the undulating
nature of the country affords great facility.
Notwithstanding the laborious nature of their tasks they have always a
cheerful greeting for the passer-by, even under extremely irritating circum-

Transplanting Rico. [Native Drawing.]


DOMESTIC LIFE.
13
stances, as they are greatly plagued by leeches, which swarm in the paddy-
fields.
The result of the constant attention paid to the cultivation of the soil
is astonishing. Our farmers would gaze with surprise on the luxuriant
crops of cereals, roots, and vegetables; and this is solely owing to the care
taken in preparing the soil, which is not naturally productive. Weeds are
never to be met with in the fields, which, however, from the constant
manuring bestowed upon them, lack the sweet fresh smell of our own.
With regard to education, it is rare to meet with a Japanese who cannot
read, write, and cipher; and in buying and selling they use computing
slides like the Chinese, by the aid of which they quickly settle the amount
to be paid. They do not, except in the higher classes, receive what we un-
derstand by a general or scientific education, the members of each trade or
profession being only instructed in what pertains to their own affairs—a
fact the inquiring stranger soon discovers.


CHAPTER IV.
THE TYCOON, DAIMIOS, AND ARISTOCRACY.
The Government of Japan consists of an oligarchy of feudal princes, called
Daimios, wielding absolute authority in their respective provinces, but subject
to the general control of one of their number, (selected from one of three
great families), called the 'Tycoon/ who, assisted by a 'Gorogio,' or 'Great
Council,' presides over the affairs of the state in the name of the 'Mikado,' or
'Spiritual Emperor,' its supreme head.
The office of Mikado is apparently the cause of most of the disturb-
ances which agitate the country. Its temporal importance lies in possessing
the power of issuing decrees, bestowing titles, and delegating authority
to others; and princes discontented with the Tycoon are constantly intriguing
against his legitimate influence with the Mikado. For instance: an at-
tempt was made in 1864 by a powerful coalition, headed by Choisiu, prince
of Nangato, to obtain possession of the Mikado's person. This was only pre-
vented after a severe struggle by the bravery of the Tycoon's guard, to whose
care the palace and its inmates were entrusted. During the conflict a large
portion of the sacred city of Miako was burnt.
The Tycoon only leaves Yeddo when affairs of state require his presence
elsewhere. His palace is situated in the heart of the city, and is surrounded
by grounds several miles in circumference, and enclosed by a deep moat. It
is there that he receives the compulsory visits of the grandees of the empire,
one of whom, on the point of being ushered into the audience-chamber, is


THE TYCOON, DAIMIOS, AND ARISTOCRACY.
17
led them off at a swinging trot, the whole party flinging up their heels like
boys playing at 'follow my leader,' until startling guttural shouts from the
marshals caused the glittering lines to halt and face each other. The
horsemen, who had hitherto taken no part in the pageant, were now stationed
in rear of the centre of the respective lines, and added greatly to the effect
by their crested helmets, their richly gilt armour, and the heraldic banners,
which were attached to the back of the cuirass and floated about two feet
over their heads. As soon as the horsemen were stationed the exciting part
of the sham-fight began, by the lines
being wheeled backwards and forwards
in wings from the centre, and into
zigzag formations from central points,
with a slow 'stamp-and-go' march, the
spears being flourished with each
motion and pointed high and low, and
right and left, as in our bayonet
exercise. The marshals regulated the
movements of their respective lines
with great accuracy, the one being
retired directly the other advanced,
so that the relative distance was never
altered. After a time both parties
suddenly assumed a sitting posture A Daimios Retainer. [Native Drawing.]
and exchanged howls of defiance, which grew fiercer and fiercer, until a
simultaneous rush, as if to engage, finished the performance, from which
the representatives of barbaric warfare retired amid the hearty cheers of
the representatives of the bayonet and rifle.
Though most of the Daimios have enormous revenues, and are surrounded
by men devotedly attached to them, the policy of the country so trammels
their actions with formalities and espionage as to keep them in considerable
subjection to the Tycoon; nor is even the privacy of their houses respected,


18
JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
for their families are retained in Yeddo, as hostages for their good behaviour,
while they are absent in their principalities. As an occasional relaxation
from the cares attendant on their high position, they avail themselves of a
privilege called 'naiboen,' which enables them to share incognito in the
pleasures and amusements of their countrymen. Those drawings and coloured
representations of scenes connected with the higher classes which so largely
engross the attention of Japanese artists, generally depict naiboen intrigues
and adventures; these convey, however, a very exaggerated idea of the
manner in which the Daimios conduct them-
selves on these occasions.
*
The family in the house-boat witnessing
a pyrotechnic display in the bay of Yeddo,
may be regarded as a faithful representation
of a Daimio's party enjoying the naiboen.
The great man in his light summer robe has
apparently cast aside the cares of office, and
seems thoroughly to enjoy the cool evening
breeze and the society of his wives, only one
of whom has a legal claim to that title, by
right of which she takes precedence of the
others. Of the two bonzes, or priests, in the
stern of the boat, one, probably, is a member
of the family, and the other its spy, for even
Coolies carrying Norimon.
(From Native Drawing.] naiboen excursions are not exempted from
espionage: indeed the Japanese are so habituated to this custom that they
generally regard it as a necessary check upon themselves. Naiboen ex-
cursions to the tea-houses are very frequent, notice being sent previously
in order to insure proper accommodation and privacy; the latter precaution
being principally taken on account of the ladies of the family, who never go
beyond the palace except in a norimon guarded by armed retainers.
In their homes, the aristocracy are as simple in their habits as the rest of





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28 JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
Like the Chinese, the Japanese burn joss-sticks to propitiate the deities
in favour of their departed relatives; and the neighbourhood of a grave-
yard may generally be detected by the peculiar aromatic odour emitted
during the burning of these. For some time after a funeral the relatives
daily visit the tomb and intercede for the dead, holding their hands up in
the attitude of prayer, and rubbing the palms together as they mutter their
monotonous, orisons.


CHAPTER VII.
NATIONAL GAMES AND AMUSEMENTS.
Notwithstanding the industrious habits of the Japanese, they are great
lovers of pleasure, and much addicted to sight-seeing; theatres and wax-
work exhibitions are very numerous, and jugglers, top-spinners, and
tumblers, are regular habitues of the streets.
Though they do not allow pleasure to come before business, they do
not hesitate to associate it with religious observances; and on solemn
festival occasions, the vicinity of even the most sacred temples is occupied
by a variety of shows and common stalls, for the sale of sweetmeats, toys,
and coloured pictures.
Their principal athletic amusement is wrestling, which may be regarded
as the national game of the country. It is very generally practised, and
pairs of 'brawny fellows' are to be frequently met with of an evening
in the outskirts of towns and villages, either crouched down in the pre-
liminary attitude, which resembles that of angry fighting-cocks, or dragging
one another to and fro like frogs struggling over a choice morsel The
game is necessarily a dragging and pulling one, its grand object being
to force the opponent beyond a certain boundary.
So popular is it, that in addition to public performers, who travel
about the country exhibiting their prowess, the Daimios keep private bands:
each district has some especial champion; and every Japanese a favourite
'smoo,' as they term the wrestlers, whose exploits are canvassed with an


30
JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
enthusiasm totally at variance with the stolid indifference which usually
characterises the people, when any subject is broached that does not directly
concern their ordinary vocations
The professional wrestlers are generally men of herculean proportions.
From constant practice they attain a muscular development that would
eclipse that of our prize-ring champions; but their paunchy figures and
sluggish movements render any further comparison impossible, as they
neither practise nor appreciate what we call training. Size and weight
are prized more than activity in the limited arena to which their performances
are confined: so, instead of walking down superabundant flesh, they
endeavour to increase it, dieting themselves on rice and fish, which is far
from productive of any Bantingite result. The illustration of the Great
Wrestling Amphitheatre at Yeddo conveys a fair idea of the estimation
in which athletic games are held by the Japanese. The enclosure is
capable of containing several thousand spectators, and is always filled
when a match of importance takes place.
In the centre is the 'docho,' or 'boundary-ring,' which is about eighteen
feet in diameter. The game is generally decided by one or other of
the combatants being forced against this boundary; for, although a fair
throw counts, it rarely decides the mastery, as the great weight and
the crouching position of the wrestlers necessitate dragging, pushing,
and even carrying; and the tenacity of their grasp is such, that any other
results are almost impossible.
The price of admission to these exhibitions is very low; and, like
everything else of a public nature, is regulated by the government.
Officials are appointed to superintend the arrangements, and to see that no
accidents arise from overcrowding. For this purpose they are provided
with a box that overlooks the whole building.
The lofty scaffolding outside the enclosure is a time stage, from which
the commencement and duration of each match are intimated to the
audience by a certain number of strokes on the drum that surmounts it.





NATIONAL GAMES AND AMUSEMENTS.
33
stitutes for women, though singing and dancing-girls are frequently intro-
duced as divertissements.

Getting ready to go to the Theatre.
Kite-flying is also a favourite amusement; and old age and childhood
may frequently be seen side-by-side, tugging at soaring monsters, in the
construction of which great ingenuity is displayed.
The Japanese often play with cards, which are about a quarter of
the size of ours; and they are much given to gambling, although it is
strictly prohibited, and, when detected, severely punished. But the most
popular in-door game is a sort of combination of draughts and chess,
which frequently engrosses the players for hours at a time.
F


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CRIMES AND PUNISHMENTS.
35
is an instance of • thrashemono.' The culprit is bound on a horse, and is
preceded by a placard, borne by his relatives or neighbours, and indicating
his crime. In this manner he is conducted through the town to the place
of execution, where his sentence is read to him. He is then placed (with his
limbs still bound) over a freshly-dug hole, where he is supported by his
relatives till the executioner's sword performs its task.
After execution, the heads of malefactors are generally exposed: that of
Simono Sedgi (the lonin who was decapitated in the presence of the British
garrison of Yokohama, for being the organizer of the assassination of Major
Baldwin and Lieutenant Bird of Her Majesty's 20th Regiment) was ex-
hibited on the public stand at the guard-house at the entrance of the town.
This man was a fair specimen of the lonin type, and was a most deter-
mined ruffian, whose whole life had been a career of crime.
When exposed in the streets of Yokohama the day preceding his exe-
cution, he conducted himself with great bravado, remarking on the improve-
ments in the town since he last visited it, and expressing his regret that he
had not killed a consul.
At the place of execution he made an impassioned speech, in which he
declared that he was a gentleman by birth, and had studied the arts and
sciences, and never believed the government would sacrifice a Japanese for
the death of a foreigner. He said that the days would come when they
would repent the encouragement they were now giving to strangers; and
ended by complimenting the executioner on his well-known skill.
The lonin differs from the ordinary criminal, and is thus ably described
by the highest authority on Japanese matters :*—
'As a noble or head of a house is responsible for all who are of his
family, or claim his protection, when any of his people are resolved upon
a desperate enterprise they formally renounce the protection and declare
themselves "lonins;"—in other words, outlaws, or friendless men: after
• Sir Rutherford Alcock. See ' Capital of the Tycoon.'


36 JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
which no one is responsible for their acts, and this is considered a highly
honourable and proper thing to do.'
The worst of this system is, that any one harbouring or assisting a lonin
endangers his head; and such men are, therefore, compelled to resort to
robbery and extortion as means of supporting themselves. It generally
happens that this legalised method of taking the law into their own hands
drives those who avail themselves of it into a series of crimes, and frequently
they become the associates of common thieves.
Of the gang represented in the illustration as robbing a rich merchant's
house, one or two probably are lonins, the rest being thieves in disguise.
The servants, kowtowing before two men, whose naked swords plainly
intimate the consequences of any attempt to give alarm, or to offer resistance
to their demands, have apparently been collecting all the money in the house
and are laying it before the thieves. The oblong boxes are iron safes, in
which the Japanese keep their money.
From the position of the other members of the gang, it is evident that
they have not got all they require, and are watching something going on in
the interior of the house. They have probably learnt that the merchant has
to forward some money for the purchase of goods by a certain date, and
know exactly how much to expect.
In the spring of 1865 the Tycoon, in levying a tax on the Yeddo mer-
chants, congratulated them on the fact that the portion of the country under
his immediate control was exempt from the depredations of lonins; but
notwithstanding this statement, a robbery of the nature described took place
in the capital immediately after the issue of the Tycoon's manifesto, and a
lonin concerned in it gave as an excuse for his conduct, that he had learnt
that the money was intended for foreigners, who were settled in the country
in opposition to the laws of Gongen Sama, which had never been revoked.
With such dread are these men regarded by the non-combatant classes,
that it frequently happens that one or two will go into a village and extort
what they require without the slightest resistance being offered
.


38
JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
atives of the respective claims of humanity and justice. A singular punish-
ment, to which only the nobles of the country are liable, is secret banishment
to the island of Fatzisiu, which is situated on the northern coast of the
empire. It is small and barren, rising perpendicularly from the sea.
The only communication with it is by means of a basket, which is lowered
from an overhanging tree to the water, a distance of about fifty feet.'' From this island there is no return, and the unhappy, incarcerated nobles,
are compelled to support themselves by weaving silks, which are the most
beautiful the country produces. A junk visits the island once a-year,
when the silks are exchanged for provisiona
* In 1858 an English man-of-war visited this island, and two of the officers were hoisted up
in the basket for the purpose of taking sights. One of them, who was my informant, describes
it as a walled-in barren island, with no other mode of ingress or egress than that described.


40 JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
the more ignorant people (who in Japan, like every other country, are
most influenced by superstitions) believe, as they look into the mirror,
that the Supreme Being sees their past lives as easily as they do
their own faces. The value attached to indulgences and charms is very great, and the sale of them contributes largely to the revenues of the
Mikado. Charms are eagerly purchased by the lower orders, who carry
them about their persons, and never let anybody touch them except
themselves.
At a tea-house at Kamakura, one of these charms was accidentally
dropped by a lively little 'moosmie, ' or 'girl,' who was waiting on a party
of foreigners. One of them picked it up, and was on the point of opening
the small box in which it is placed for safety when she discovered the loss,
and made a desperate rush for its recovery. On finding the importance
attached to it, the 'friske,' as she called it, was handed round the group as
she eagerly darted after it; and on one of the party pretending to light a
cigar with it she burst into tears, and was not to be pacified until it was
restored.
A religious observance of great importance with the Japanese is ' Osur-
asma,' or 'praying a soul out of purgatory,' as they wisely consider that even
the most holy must have some small peccadilloes to answer for.
This ceremony takes place in the seventh month after death: a white
lamp is its emblem. This is hung up at the entrance of the mourners'
houses, while they offer oblations and burn joss-sticks. Food is also
prepared and laid out, in case the spirit of the departed, finding the
journey to the regions of the 'kamis' a long and wearisome one, should
need refreshment.
No Japanese dreams of entering a friend's house while the white lamp is
hung up, or of disturbing in any way the privacy of a family engaged in
these solemn duties, as the spirits of the departed are firmly believed to
revisit their former dwellings at such times, if they have not already entered
into a state of bliss.



;
w








42
JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
The illustration representing the last offices, depicts a custom of Buddhist
origin which is generally adopted by the Japanese. They believe that
shaving the head of the dead propitiates the deities in their favour. It
is also considered to be an emblem of sanctity, and the bonzes, or priests,
always keep their heads clean-shaved. Even children intended for the
priesthood, as well as certain religious societies of both sexes, are similarly
distinguished. Odder-looking creatures than these bald-headed specimens
of humanity can" hardly be imagined.
The itinerant sweetmeat vendor shown in the woodcut is a specimen of
the class of Japanese most prone to superstition. The lantern he carries
serves not only to light his way but to advertise his wares: it also bears his
name, no Japanese of the lower orders being allowed to stroll about at night
without a lantern so distinguished.

















THE SPY SYSTEM—THE BATH-HOUSE. 47
district sometimes suffers for the offence of one of its residents. In the
towns, where the streets are intersected with barriers a few hundred yards
apart, which are always closed at night, the people living within these
enclosures are often under the ban of the officials for some irregularity
which has occurred within the limits. This constant espionage has, of
course, a very pernicious effect upon the character of the people, as it
necessarily instils feelings of distrust and suspicion among near neighbours.
Yet it is marvellous how well their social system works, and still more
marvellous that the officials, who in public life practise every kind of
deception and artifice, should be, and from all accounts deservedly so,
distinguished in private life for their truthfulness, candour, and hospitality.
The other notable peculiarity is the indiscriminate manner in which
the sexes mingle in the public bath-houses. All Japanese perform their
ablutions once or twice a-day; for which purpose the poorer classes resort
to the bath-houses, which are generally open to the road or street.
Some bath-houses have the women's lavatory separate; and one of
these is the subject of the illustration. This arrangement, however, is
more for convenience than in compliance with the demands of modesty
as is evidenced by the fact that a male attendant is supplying water;
and that his presence is plainly a matter of perfect indifference to the
women bathing, with their children, in his immediate vicinity.
But it is in the common bath-room where this extraordinary feature of
Japanese life unmistakeably presents itself. There men, women and children,
perform their ablutions together, with all the apparent innocence of our first
parents. The proceedings are conducted with perfect order and good-nature.
The steaming occupants make way for one another with ball-room politeness;
they laugh and chat over their tubs, discuss the public notices on the walls,
or, maybe, saunter occasionally to the open door or window, to look at some-
thing which has attracted their attention, or to exchange greetings with a
passing friend. All this is done with a freedom that speaks for itself of their
utter unconsciousness of any impropriety in their conduct.


4S
JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
Frequently a lady is assisted by her husband in the cleansing process;
and this is not necessarily a matrimonial compliment, as regular bathing-
men are employed for the convenience of those who require such
attention.
The favourite times for bathing are the middle of the day and the
evening; but in the summer the bath-houses are always full.
The modus operandi is very simple. The bather, after duly depositing
his straw shoes at the door and paying a few cash for admittance, at once
proceeds to disrobe himself, placing his
garments in an allotted compartment.
He then secures a tub, which is filled
with lukewarm water, and, squatting
down before it, lathers himself with a
vegetable, soapy material, which is sewn
up in a small bag. At this stage of the
proceeding he will probably enter into
conversation with his neighbours, com-
placently rejoicing in his soapiness until
the remonstrances of the bathing-house
man, or of some would-be possessor of his
tub, compel him to finish his ablutions.
It would seem natural to conclude
Going home from the Bath-home. [Native Drawing.] that such a system must have immoral
effects, but the Japanese attribute no evil consequences to it. They say that,
being accustomed to it from childhood, it only enables them to carry out
those habits of cleanliness which distinguish alike their persons and their
homes.
It is amusing to notice the care taken by the Japanese to protect them-
selves from a second bath on returning from the bath-houses to their homes
in rainy weather. The artisan with the umbrella (which bears his name and
direction, by the way) is an instance of this.


CHAPTER -XII.
LOVE OF FLOWERS.
One of the many traits of the refinement which characterises all classes
of Japanese is their passion for flowers, which the singularly rich and
varied nature of the flora of the country, aided by the magnificent climate,
enables them to cultivate with great success.
Every Japanese has some knowledge of the art of gardening; and,
however humble a house may be, it generally has a potted flower or
dwarf tree about it: or, in the absence of that, a flowering branch of
peach or cherry, placed in water.
Regular professors teach the art of dwarfing, training, and grafting
trees and plants, and of laying out miniature landscapes, into which artificial
mountains and valleys are introduced, and very frequently lakes, studded
with lilliputian fern-covered islands, around which gold and silver fish
may be seen darting about; or, if the sun is hot, taking refuge under
curious Japanese bridges, or the broad leaves of the lotus, which usually
cover a portion of the surface—the only thing out of proportion, probably,
in the details of the miniature landscape.
The sitting-apartments in Japanese houses are generally situated at
the sides or back; and either open upon flower-beds, grounds of the above
description, or some kind of enclosure, shaded by peach or pear-trees,
trained trellis-fashion overhead; or by cedars, with one solitary bough
twisting fantastically over the ground, showing, in its unnatural contortions,
ii


50
JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
the skill of the artist, the other branches having been lopped off, or
stunted, to facilitate the growth and training of this one.
Gardens for the sale of dwarf trees and flowers are also very common.
Some are perfect bijoux. Asa rule the varied collections of flowers, planted
in coloured china pots, are arranged, with very agreeable effect, in tiers
of shelves round the sides, and on stands about the gardens.
Many of the dwarf trees, especially the maples, have great variety
of foliage, the result of constant grafting. To such an extent is this
practised, that it is rare to find pure botanical specimens in a Japanese garden.
Plants are sometimes cultivated for their berries as well as for their
variegated foliage. One very beautiful specimen, producing at the same
time bright scarlet and yellow berries, is believed by many to have been
obtained from cuttings of an exquisite shrub, which is said to be the
principal ornament of the regions of the 'Kamis,' or Japanese heaven.
Even the fern family undergoes a strange metamorphosis at the hands
of Japanese gardeners. Some of the fronds are artificially variegated;
and others, on reaching maturity, have a curious crumpled appearance.
Again, the roots of certain small species are frequently twisted into
curious devices, and hung up in grottoes, or shady corners. The effect
of these, when the roots are partly concealed by the fresh young fronds,
is very pretty.
Nearly every fortnight a fresh flower comes into season, and is in
great demand for the time; heavy prices being readily paid for fine
specimens.
The poorer classes commonly buy flowers from men who gain their
livelihood by hawking them about the streets. They buy them not only
to gratify their tastes, but as offerings to their Lares and Penates—
patron ' Kamis;' or to decorate the tombs of departed relatives—a religious
ceremony which is strictly observed
.
Flower-shows are often held in the large towns, and are much frequented
by the people.


'7'
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LOVE OF FLOWERS.
51
The illustration represents a chrysanthemum show. These flowers
are much esteemed by the Japanese, who pay more attention to size and
brilliancy of colour than to perfume. The stone in the centre is called
a 'skakeshe.' On it, poetry in praise of flowers is inscribed. This is
a custom of very ancient origin, and poetical inscriptions on stones and
rocks are to be often seen in public places. The piece of ornamental
stonework is an 'ishedoro,' or 'stone lamp;' which is very common in
gardens, and is much prized on account of the
historical associations connected with it.
The Japanese have many floral compliments.
A very pretty one is intimated by a present
of seeds (especially if presented to a foreigner
returning to his own country), the purport
being,—'Plant these seeds about your home,
and, when you see them growing, think of
me.'
As an instance of the influence which flowers
have upon the Japanese character, the word
'hanna,' or flower, is commonly used as a
term of endearment: it is usually applied by
parents to a favourite daughter, or by a lover
to his mistress; it is also used to distinguish
the bride and the bridegroom, as 'hanna-yomie,' 'hanna-moko.' Floral love-
tokens (although they only consist of a single sprig) are as much prized among
the Japanese as among ourselves; and are, no doubt, sometimes
"Treasured in their fading,"
as the Japanese are not only poetical, but much given to sentimental
reflections.

Girl with Flower*.


LONDO N:
DAY AND SON, LIMITED,
GATE STREET LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS.


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