NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE N OR THLO C F I N A. BY itsolased N. B. DENNYS. HONGKONG: PRINTED BY A. SHORTREDE & Co. 1866. NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. The writer, having lately resided in the North of China, has been much struck by the general want of information which exists res- pecting the Capital itself and its neighbouring localities, and also as to the regulations with which foreigners who travel in the North are required to comply. Under these circumstances, it has been deemed advisable to throw together some of the information which a somewhat lengthened stay in the Province of Pei-chi-li has afforded an opportunity of collecting, and it is hoped that the following notes will be found useful. It must be understood that no pretence is made beyond that of describing in the plainest form the means of transport, the peculiarities of the country, and of giving such hints to the traveller with respect to the sights to be seen, or other mat- ters, as may occur to the writer. We will therefore suppose that having left Shanghae in one of the steamers which, during the summer months, run to Tientsin on an average of once every seven days, the traveller has arrived at Taku. TAKU.—The village of Taku, situated at the mouth of the Pei-ho, on the Southern side of the river, is alone interesting as having been 6 NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. has also been constructed, at which steamers can lie and unload. A billiard room, fives court, and club house have recently been opened on the British settlement by Captain P. Laen. The staple amusement of foreigners living at Tientsin is riding, and during the winter months hunting and coursing,-foxes and hares abounding on the plain in great nunibers. Races take place in May and October. The race course is situated about a mile to the back of the settlement. Two other courses have, however, in previous years been made use of, but the convenient position of the former and its exemption from most floods will, it is thought, lead to its being held as a permanency. II TIENTSIN.—The following short sketch of the town of Tientsin will, it is believed, be found sufficiently full for the traveller. The portion in brackets is derived in great part from Dr Williams' « Commercial Guide.” The city presents very few points of interest to the foreigner, it being much the same as all other Chinese towns of the same status, The few European Officials, or merchants, whose business lies in the native quarter, reside in the suburbs. [The City of Tientsin heaven's ford,) is the Capital of the prefecture of that name, which, extending from the Peiho to the sea coast and thence in a S. E. direction as far as the Shantung promontory, comprises one Chou and six Hsien districts. It lies at the junction of the grand canal with the Peiho, in Lat. 39.10 N., 117.3.55, and next to Peking is the most considerable city in the province of Pei-chi-li. Previous to 1782 it was only a wei, or mi- litary station, for the protection of the river traffic; but in 1782 it was raised to its present status. Its estimated population is about 400,000 of whom rather more than one-half reside within the walls. The suburbs extend between its North wall and the canal to the NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. 7 East gate in one direction, and as far as Tzu-chu-lin in the other. On the opposite side of the river exists another suburb, almost as dense as its opposite neighbour. The level of the town appears to have been raised by the suc- cessive embankments which from time to time it has been found necessary to construct to guard against the effects of the frequent inundations from the river;] the plain on which the city stands being, as previously mentioned, often entirely submerged in the rainy season. A ditch runs round the city at the foot of the wall, and this, being used by the inhabitants as a drain, receives all the fifth of the neighbourhood. During the hot days of summer the stench arising therefrom is overpowering, and has doubtless con- tributed to great mortality among the natives during the prevalence of epidemics. Cholera, typhus fever and small pox each carry off a vast number of victimes every year. So common is the latter in the Northern provinces, that to ask if a chlld has had the small pox is a recognized civility. This destructive disease seems to be but slightly checked by the practice of vaccination, which, partly by foreign, and partly by native, agency, has been introduced among the people, and is daily becoming more in vogue. Among the many nuisances to which the nose of the foreigner is subjected, none is more disagreeable than the effluvium arising from the soap boiling works, of which a great number exist in the suburbs. The fetid smell caused by this operation is indescribably sickening, and is generally supposed by strangers to arise from the city ditch. It is not, however, it is believed, unhealthy. Salt Mounds.-On the right bank of the river, going from Tză- chu-lin to Tientsin, the eye of the traveller will be arrested by the immense mounds of salt, which, stored under mat coverings, look in the distance like a range of low hills. Salt, as is well known, is a government monopoly in China, and Tientsin is perhaps the large- est storehouse of this commodity in the Empire. San-ko-lin-sin's Folly. At a radius of somewhat about two miles 8 NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. from the city extends a circular rampart, known to foreigners as San-ko-lin-sin's folly, having been thrown up by him during the last war. One end joins the Custom-house fort before mentioned, while the other abuts on the river at some distance above the town. The removal of the earth necessary to construct this has formed a tidal ditch or moat of some eight yards in width, communicating with the river and crossed in three or four places by small bridges. The Foreign settlements, the race course, burial ground and a temple known as the “Elgin josshouse” (the treaty of 1860 having been signed within its dilapidated walls) are, with the city, all included within the circumference of the “folly.” Fortunately for its pro- jector, its defensive powers were not put to the test, as it is consi- dered useless in a military point of view. Foreign Consulates.—The French Consulate is situated on the bank of the river opposite the town, just at its junction with the grand canal. It was formerly one of the Imperial resting places, and is perhaps the most picturesque and striking looking building in the neighbourhood. One half of the original enclosure is now occupied by the Roman Catholic Mission, and Schools, &c., attached thereto. The American, Swedish and Norwegian, Dutch and Hanseatic Consulates are at present located within the suburbs not far from the walls. The Russian Consulate is on the same side of the river as that of the French, but lies considerably nearer Tzů-chu-lin. The British, Prussian, Danish and Portuguese Consulates are si- tuated on the British settlements. Of the above mentioned nations the British, French, and Russian Consuls are paid Officers. Shops. There are plenty of good shops at Tientsin, at many of which curios, furs, &c., &c., can be obtained, but the traveller is strongly recommended to defer all purchases until his arrival at Peking. Most of the articles he would be likely to care about can be got more cheaply and of better quality in the capital. · Hotel, Stores, &c.—The “Hotel d'Europe,” kept by a Frenchman (M. Coutries), is situated in a lane leading from "High Street,” NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. hours, a smaller quantity is of course required. A larger supply of bedding is, however, absolutely necessary for the reasons given in the paragraph describing the journey from Taku to Tientsin. Should the traveller however be starting immediately after heavy rains, he must calculate on being detained nearly 3 days on the road, and at times during the wet season they have been found to be impassable. There is a certain part of England which is so bad that it is vul- garly said to have been the first place made every other being an improvement on it. Those who gay so have never, it is evident, seen the roads and villages of Northern China. To call the wretched tracks, which in many places form the only available highway of communication, roads, is certainly to make use of a misnomer. The beauties of these delightful “roads” are however only to be seen to advantage during the wet weather. The ruts being occa- sionally two feet deep, and the whole of the surface being covered with mud and water in a uniform level, the traveller has an ad- mirable opportunity of exercising any Mark Tapley-like propensities he may have of being “jolly" under circumstances of extreme dis- comfort. It will hardly be believed that in parts of the high-road between the capital and its nearest seaport there is only room for one cart to pass at a time. The usual practice of travellers leaving Tientsin is to start at daylight from that place, having first of all fortified the inner man with a substantial breakfast. About 1 P.M., the village of Yang- tsun will be reached, and this is the usual luncheon place. After an hour's stay he will again take the road, arriving at Ho-see-woo about 7 P.M. Here he will find an inn, at which he can dine, and having concluded his meal will in all probability feel quite tired enough to go to sleep immediately, his bedding being spread out on the brick kang with which each room is furnished. It may be well to warn travellers that these stones are generally heated with char- coal, and cases of suffocation are of frequent occurrance amongst 16 NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. the Chinese, from this custom. Foreigners accustomed to Chinese inns generally make the inn people substitute millet-stalk for char- coal, as even should there be no danger of suffocation owing to the thorough ventilation afforded by broken windows, &c., the fumes of the latter generally cause to those unaccustomed to them intense head-ache. The carters generally leave Ho-see-woo about 4 A.M., in order to reach the capital before the gates close for the night. The mid-day resting place is Chang-chia-wan, the site of the only regular battle in which the Tarters and our own troops engaged. The bridge over the canal (not usually seen from the road taken by carts) was the scene of a struggle, which terminated in the total defeat of the Tarters sent out to stop the advance of the “Barbarians” on the capital of the empire. It was the custom of the Chinese Emperors in former times to construct stone roads of massive blocks of granite between places which were much frequented, and more especially such as the Emperor himself was in the habit of visiting. One in a tolerable state of repair exists between Tungchow and Peking, and a small portion of the principal street of Tientsin is paved in a similar man- ner. Of those leading from Peking in other directions something will be said hereafter. The traveller is strongly advised to dis- moint whenever he finds himself approaching a pavement, as no amount of cushions will save him from the most distressing concus- sions. The road-ways under the gates of Peking are all paved in this manner, and owing to the enormous amount of traffic passing over them are in many places worn into holes of two feet in depth. TIENTSIN TO PEKING ON HORSEBACK.—The same route is followed on horseback as that taken by cart, and the remarks in the pre- vious paragraph as to resting places, &c., are equally applicable to those who journey in this way. It is however very difficult to pro- cure horses (or, more correctly speaking, ponies, for the European 18 NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. them up in a shoeing frame to shoe them, as they kick most vigor- ously if their legs are free while undergoing the operation. IV. APPROACH TO PEKING.–By far the most striking approach to the capital is that by the Tungchow paved way. A fine highway of some 100 yards in width extends for some two miles outside the City walls, its side lined with respectable-looking shops and in a state of cleanliness which contrasts favourably with most of the roads in the neighbourhoood. This route leading to the Chi-huo- men is usually taken by those who have come up by boat. The approach from the Chang-chia-wan road leading to the Sha-kuo-men is much less agreeable, and the traveller finds himself within 500 yards of the southern wall before he has had the slightest intimation of his being in its neighbourhood, unless he should have caught a passing glimpse at a corner of the road of one of the gate pagodas of the Tartar city. Before proceeding to give a slight historical sketch of Peking and various particulars as to its walls, public buildings, &c., it may be well to give a few hints as to the delivery up of passports and how and where to obtain accommodation ; these being the points to which the mind of a tired traveller will most certainly, be directed on his first arrival. DELIVERY OF PASSPORTS.—On reaching the outer gate of the Chinese city he will, if in a cart or on horseback, be somewhat as- tonished as finding himself brought to a sudden stop at the order of a ragged looking object which few at first sight are willing to be. lieve is the soldier deputed, by the small mandarin in charge of the gate, to stop and examine all new comers, take their passports and indulge in that sort of insolence which is proverbial with those who naturally of beggar's degree are dressed in "a little brief authority." NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. 21 necessary that the traveller be informed that out of the 16 gates contained in the walls of the two cities those through which he is likely to pass are the Sha-huo-men (PP I PH) (mên Ph) meaning gate), the Tung-pien-mên ( ) or the Chiang-. tză-mên ( P I). These lead from the country into the Chinese portion of the town, and having entered this, he must, if de proceeds into the Tartar city, pass through one of the three gates (in the South wall), which form the only means of communi- cation between the two divisions of the Capital. These are called the Hai-te-men (nh t ) or Chung-tên-men ( 4 FR). The Chien-mên ( phí FH) or Cheng-yang-mên (IE B PH) and the Shun-cha-men ( la lá PI), or Hsuan-wu-mên (Ể a HH). The traveller must bear in mind that the gates of the Tartar and and Chinese cities are locked at sundown, so that he must remain for the night in whatever city he happens to be at the time. Should he be outside either city at sunset he will in like manner have to remain there till sunrise; and care must therefore be taken in plan- ning excursions to avoid so disagreeable a termination to a day's pleasure. As above stated, the Chinese generally speak of the Chinese city as “outside the wall,” but it will be understood that in these notes the word "outside " is used to mean outside of both city walls. The traveller's residence at Peking will necessarily vary with the condition of his visit. Should he be able to avail himself of the hospitality of friends, he will of course reside in the Tartar city, within which are the foreign Legations and the houses of the few other Europeans who are permanent residents at the Capital. Should he however know no one able to accommodate him or be destitute of letters of introduction, the Chinese city will offer him the best choice of inns. Arrangements may sometimes, however, be made to hire two or more rooms in a temple situated within the Tartar city, not very far from the British Legation. The choice must of course rest with NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. 23 1.00 Peaches, »? 1 catty=1} lb. Beef, from 12 to 15 catties, . . . per $1.00 Mutton, 10 to 13 . Ducks, each, . . . . . 3 to 5 tiao. Fowls, . . . . . . 11 to 2 tiao. Fish, per catty, . . . . . 6 pai to 1 tiao. Rice, , . . . . about 3 pai. Flour, . . . . . . 3 pai. Bread (native), per catty, ... 3 pai. Oil, per catty, . . . . . 1 tiao. Coal, per 100 catties, . . . 5 tiao. Firewood, per 100 catties, . . . 3 tiao. Apples, each, during the season, 3 cash. Pears, 3 cash. 3 cash. Ice, 2 catties, kes. . . . . 1 cash. . Straw, long, per 100 catties, . . about 4 tiao 4 pai. 2 dollars. 29 2 dollars. 2 dollars. Chopped straw, , 4 tiao. Cart hire, per day of 12 hours, . . 6 tiao. Pony, 6 tiao. It is far better to use cash in making small purchases than silver. The best exchange shops in the Chinese city are situated in the Chien- men-ta-chie, or large street leading directly south from the Central South gate of the Tartar city. Having thus given as much general information as will suffice to - give the traveller some idea of how to proceed on his arrival at the Capital, a succeeding chapter will indicate the best localities for the purchase of such articles as are generally most in request by those visiting it for pleasure. Bran, Corn, Barley, ور The situation of Peking has, combined with the non-inventive character of the Northern Chinese, conduced to render it but a poor place in the way of manufactures. The preparation of articles in dai- ly use is of course a necessity; but while the products of every other portion of the Empire find their way to the Capital, it gives little but bullion in return. This is especially true of the Tartar City, NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. 31 lookout towers over the gates, it would more resemble an encamp- ment inclosed by a massive wall than a large metropolis. No spires or towers of churches, no pillars or monuments, no domes or mi narets, nor even many dwellings of superior elevation, break the dull uniformity of this or any Chinese city. In Peking the different coloured tiles, yellew, green, and dun red, upon the roofs, impart a variety of colours to the scene; but the only objects to relieve the monotony are usually large clumps of trees, and the flag staffs in pairs before every official residence. A towering pa- goda is usually the only building which claims an eminence. It is no doubt, in a social point of view, far better that all the people should have decently comfortable tenements, than that the mud hovels of the wretched poor should only look the more forlorn be- side the magnificent palace of the nabob; still, the mere scenery, as at Calcutta or Tabriz, is more picturesque than the Chinese cities.” Note.-Somewhat extensive differences will in many places be found between particulars given in these notes, and those found in works on the subject. VI. The Chinese city, although, as before remarked, containing most of the mercantile population of the capital, does not present many features of interest to the traveller. The chief sights within its walls are:-1st, The Tien-tan (F ) generally called by for- eigners the “ Temple of Heaven.” It is situated in a spacious oval enclosure, of upwards of two miles in circumference, on the eastern side of the avenue leading due north from the middle south gate. The central building, which no one is allowed to enter except those who are of Royal blood or who do duty within the enclosure, is circular in form and roofed with blue tiles, surmounted with a gilt ball. Had it been kept in the commonest repair, it would be one 32 NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. of the most beautiful specimens of native architecture in the North of China. Various other buildings surround this, some of which are devoted to lodging the Emperor and his retinue, when the an- nual visit is paid for the purpose of sacrificing on the altar which gives its name to the place. This altar is a round" or rather po- lygonal building, * consisting of three terraces, each about 10 feet high and respectively 120, 90 and 60 feet in diameter, built of white marble and protected by balustrades of the same. A square wall surmounted by blue tiles surrounds this altar, and beyond it is situated the palace of abstinence, where the Emperor fasts three days, preparatory to offering the annual sacrifice.” No priests live in the enclosure, a few wretched looking coolies being its only guardians and keepers. Opposite to the Tien-tan is situated the Ti-tan (He ) or Hsien-nung-tan, ( ) (lit., Altar to Earth) and generally spoken of as the Temple of Agriculture. Tne following is Dr Williams' description of this place:- "It is professedly dedicated to the deified monarch Shên-nung, the supposed inventor of agriculture. This altar stands in an enclosure about two miles in circumference, and is really composed of four separate altars: to the spirits of heaven, those of the earth, to the planet Jupiter and to Shên-nung. The worship at this altar is per- formed at the vernal equinox, at which time the ceremony of plough- ing a part of the enclosure is performed by the Emperor, assisted by members of the Board of Rites. A little west of this enclosure is an artificial pool, dug in 1,771, called the Heh Lung tan, or Black Dragon pool, dedicated to the spirits of the waters, where his Majesty performs special supplications whenever the country suffers from drought or deluge. These three areas (those of the temple of heaven, of earth and the Heh lung tan) occupy a large part of the southern city, and east of the altar to heaven is an ex- Williams' Middle Kingdom. NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. 35 ances at a “Sing-song" as it is called in the South, will care to see much of Pekingese Theatricals. To the student of Mandarin they are however interesting, as most plays of which the plot and accessories are of modern date are performed in this dialect. Those relating to the old dynasties are usually spoken in the Hupeh dialect. The two best theatres are those known as the Luh-shou-tang (Toeken ) and Yien-shien-t'ang Cht ), both of which are situ- ated in the street named Tung-koh-yen (OXYPJ ). Besides these are the Tien-loh-yen F s situated in the Ta-sha-lan t W. Tung-loh_yen la situated in the Ta-sha- lan t ) and the Kwang-teh-low ( ) situated in the Jow-shih (hiti). The above-mentioned places exhaust the list of sights likely to interest the visitor, to be found in the Southern portion of Peking. The reader must not however imagine that there is nothing more which would not repay a visit; but as these are intended only to give the traveller a few hints so that he may not be entirely thrown on his own resources should he have no resident friend to whom he can apply for guidance, no pretence is made of furnishing complete information on any particular point. This must be borne in mind more especially with request to subsequent articles on the Tartar cíty and environs where the great number of “sights” to be seen will naturally preclude any very extended notice of each. Owing to the fact of the Chinese city being exempt from the (comparatively) rigid military rule which prevails in the northern city and of its being the seat of amusements of all kinds, it is the chief resort of those who are in search of relaxation or dissipation. Its area is not much smaller than that of the Tartar city, but the large spaces taken by the Temples of Heaven and Earth, cultivated fields and waste ground for drilling troops, &c., render the actually inhabited portion very small in proportion to that enclosed within the wall. With respect to the facilities given to visitors who wish to examine the various government buildings in Peking, it is difficult NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. 37 damp ground exists to a large extent. Following the usual rule that diseases of the chest are rare when ague prevails and vice versa, the natives of the capital suffer much from consumption. Hooping cough, croup and diptheria prevail amongst children as in England. Scrofulous diseases are common and insanity is said to affect the natives extensively, though, owing to the rigorous confinement in which an insane person is kept, such cases are not often seen in public. The chief danger (if danger there be) to the visitor arises however from small pox and cholera. In a previous article some remarks were made relative to the prevalence of the former at Tientsin. The native plan of inoculation in the nostril is, as Dr Lockhart observes, open to serious objection, inasmuch as the disease is thus maintained amongst the community and every case is a focus of infection. Cholera is said to prevail to some extent every summer ; but in 1862 a severe visitation of the epidemic was experienced, and numbers died in the street. Several of the foreign residents and their native servants were more or less affected, but no fatal case occurred. During the two months of the visitation 15,000 people are computed to have died, and as this number comes from a Chinese official source it is probably within the mark. During the winter months frost bites are the cause of numerous deaths and mutilations. The disease however from which inhab- itants of Peking seem to suffer most severely is opthalmia and affections of the eye generally; and the skill of the medical mission- aries in treating these diseases seems to be more appreciated than any other efforts they have made for the benefit of the Chinese. In spite of the prevalence every summer of the epidemics above mentioned, Peking cannot be considered by any means an unhealthy residence for Europeans. During the past three years, no one has died of any disease of this nature, and it may safely be asserted that, were the city properly drained and sanitary regulations strictly enforced, it would probably be the healthiest spot in Eastern Asia. NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. 39 the Prohibited City and second from the palace itself. Before this gate on the East is a solar and on the West a lunar dial. In the tower above it, called the Têng-wên ku, is a large gong, which is stated to have been used in the time of the Ming dynasty_in the same manner as the drums to be found at the entrances of Magis- trates' Ya-mêns at the present day—by would-be petitioners who, having failed to obtain justice through the ordinary channels, were permitted by striking it to draw the attention of the Emperor him- self to their grievances; death, however, being the penalty of a needless or frivolous appeal. At the present day it is struck when the Emperor passes through the gate. This is the place of audience for triumphant generals who, on their return from a successful campaign, here present the captives and treasure they have obtained. The distribution of presents to foreign ambassadors and native officials also takes place on this spot. The Wu-men leads into a courtyard, through which runs a small canal, crossed by five bridges with carved, balustrades, lions &c., all in fine marble. On the left of the courtyard is the Hsi ho meno 錫 ​門​) and on the right the Yang homen (陽 ​和門​), Within this inclosure is a building called the Tai ho tient hu ), which has five avenues, built of fine marble leading to it, much resembing, in general arrangement, the bridges within the Wu-men. This building has, according to Father Hyacynth, the former Russian archimandrite, a basement of 20 feet and a total height of 110 feet. The ascent is by 5 flights of 42 steps each, with balustrades, ornamented with tripods and other figures in bronze. The central avenue is very broad, and is used by the Emperor alone. Princes and officers of the highest rank use the two next avenues, while all others use those to the extreme right and left. At the back of Tai ho tien is the gate leading to the palace proper, which consists in general terms of four large and two small buildings, called the Cheng kung (TEE ) or The palace, the Tung kung and Hsi kung, and lastly the Chin luan tien ( ). The smaller NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. 41 most important of all the imperial edifices. Beyond it stands the Palace of Earth's Repose, where the Empress, or "heaven's consort," rules her miniature court in the Imperial harem, and between which and the northern wall of the Forbidden City is the Imperial Flower Garden, designed for the use of its inmates. The gardens are adorned with elegant pavilions, temples, and graves, and interspersed with canals, fountains, pools, and flower beds. Two groves, rising from the bosoms of small lakes, and another crowning the summit of an artificial mountain, add to the beauty of the scene, and afford the inmates of the palace an agreeable variety. In the eastern division of the Prohibited City are the offices of the Cabinet, where its members hold their sessions, and the treasury of the palace. North of it lies the Hall of Intense Thought, where sacrifices are presented to Confucius and other sages. Not far from this hall stands the Hall of the Literary Abyss or the Library, the catalogue of whose contents is published from time to time, forming an admirable synopsis of Chinese literature. At the northern end of the eastern division are numerous palaces and buildings occupied by princes of the blood, and those connected with them; and in this quarter is placed the Fung sien tien, a small temple where the Emperor comes to “ bless his ancestors." Here the Emperor and his family perform their devotions before the tablets of their depart- ed progenitors; whenever he leaves or returns to his palace, the first day of a season on other occasions, the monarch goes through his devotions in this hall."* At the back of the palace is a gate separated by a courtyard from the Shên-wu-mên Til et 4), which opens on to a narrow road, with gates at either end, running along the north boundary wall of the forbidden city, and communicating with the main area of the Huang cheng or Imperial city. Foreigners are forbidden to make use of this road in proceeding from East to West or vice versa in the * Williams. 30 NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. the event of those left by the Jesuit Missionaries being lost or becoming from the lapse of time unless. Casting one's eye from the observatory in a western direction the attention will be arrested by the Kung-kuan (or Kao-chang as it is generally called), the examination hall of the vast number of the literary candidates who resort to the annual examinations. It con- tains an enormous number of cells - ten thousand is the usual Chinese statement—and exactly resembles in general arrangement that at Canton which has been graphically described by Dr Wil- liams. It is generally open to visitors. The Yung-ho-kung, generally called by Europeans the Lamisary or Lama temple, is situated in the N. E. corner of the City at the extreme end of the Fa tô mên ta chieh and immediately under the North wall. It was founded about the year, 1725-30, by the Emperor Yung Chêng under the following circumstances. While a minor the Yung ho kung had been his residence and on his assent to the throne on the death of Kanghsi it was necessary that in accordance with Chinese custom it should be given up to the priests of one of the principal denominations, viz., the Buddhists, Taouists or the then rapidly increasing sect of Lamas. The Power of the Grand Lama of Tibet had at that time reached an extent which made him a formidable rival; this was a good opportunity of conciliating the Tibetan priesthood, so the building was created a government Lama temple. There are few better specimens of Chinese architecture to be found in Peking. It is however chiefly notable from its containing an immense image of Buddha some sixty feet in height, which is a particularly good specimen of a built idol; it is composed of wood and clay and has a beautifully smooth bronzed surface. At the time of the writer's stay in Peking admission to the portion of the building containing the idol was only to be obtained by a bribe. He is under the impression that it is now closed entirely to the general .public. NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. 81 IX. Opposite to the Yung-ho-kung in the North East Corner of Peking lies the Wên Miao u or Confucian temple of which the follow- ing graphic account has been given by Mr Michie in his work the “ Siberian Overland Route":- “The Confucian temple was the first object of our curiosity. Here the great sage is worshipped by the Emperor once a year, without the medium of paintings or images. In the central shrine there is merely a small piece of wood, a few inches long, standing upright, with a few characters inscribed on it, the name of the sage, I believe. On the sides are a number of still smaller wooden labels, representing the disciples and commentators who have elucidated the writings of Confucius. The temple contains a number of stone tablets, on which are engraved the records of honours conferred on literary men, and to obtain a place here is the acme of the ambition of Chinese scholars. In the courtyard there are a number of pine trees, said to have been planted during the reign of the Mongol dynasty, more than 500 years ago. These trees have been stunted in their growth, however, from want of room, and considering their age, their size is disappointing. The courtyard is adorned by a variety of stone sculptures, the gifts of successive emperors and dynasties. The present dynasty has been rather jealous of its pre- decessors in this respect, especially of the Ming, and has replaced many fine relics of their time by new ones of its own. There are, however, several Mongol tablets to the fore in the Confucian temple. A connoisseur can at once, from the style, fix the date of any of these works of art, and when in doubt, the inscriptions are for the most part sufficiently legible to tell their own tale. In another part of the building there are some very curious old stones, drumshaped, dated from 800 years B.C. These have been carefully preserved, but the iron tooth of time has obliterated most of the writing op them. The curious old characters are still to some extent legible, NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. 61 orture specimen of a Chinese temple to be met with outside of Peking. It is about eight miles outside the North wall and is the “show temple" of the neighbourhood. Travellers are strongly recommended to pay it a visit. Its greatest curiosities are the “Hall of the 500 Lohan" and the representatious of the tortures to be undergone in the in. fernal regions which consist of some thousand figures each about a foot high, inflicting and suffering every torment that the human imagination can conceive. A couple of rooms ought to be obtained at any of these temples for, at the most eight or ten dollars a month. The Chinese pay much less, but the unfortunately high scale of prices inaugurated by the first residents has led to most extortionate demands on the part of the priests. The Shih-san-ling or 13 tombs of the Ming Emperors are well worth visiting. They are distant about 10 miles from the walls; after riding over some rather rough ground the traveller passes through three detached gateways and comes upon an avenue about two-thirds of a mile in length. On either side of this are sculptured animals and men of colossal size in the following order at about 50 yards distance from each other:-Six men apparently either kings or Priests, two Horses, two Griffins, two Elephants, two Camels and four Lions. Passing these one comes to the largest and most cele- brated of the tombs, that of Tsu-wên or Yen-wang. The shrine is in the centre of an immense hall 220 feet long and 92 feet 8 inches broad supported by 32 pillars (exclusive of those in the walls). Each pillar is 11 feet 4 in circumference and the centre ones are about 60 feet high. The ceiling is in good preservation. A second building containing the coffin of the deceased Emperor stands about 50 feet behind the great hall; it is built on an immense brick mound pierced by a long slanting tunnel which has a most remarkable echo and is moreover a “whispering gallery." These tombs were re- paired by Chien Lung, and an inscription near the entrance states the fact. IV APPENDIX. or * * LIST OF HALTING PLACES FROM PEKING TO CHANG-CHIA-K'ou. Days Journeys No. of li Distance Peking. from Peking. from previous place. writer. Mr Michie. 1. SHA-HO, . . . 60 2. NAN-KOU, . . 90 3. CHA-TOU, . . 135 4. YU-LING, . . . 160 5. HUI-LAI-HSIEN, 185 6. LANG-SHAU, . 200 7. Tu-MU, . . . 215 7. SHA-CHENG, . 235 8. HSIN-PAO-AN, .. 255 9. CHI-MING-YI, . 285 10. ASIANG-SHUI-PU 305 11. HSUAN-HU-FU, 335 12. YU-LING, . . . 365 13. BALGON,. . 395 These distances are of course only approximate. :::::::::: :::::::::::::: APPENDIX III. ITENERARY OF A TRIP FROM PEKING TO KU-PEI-KOU, AND THENCE TO KALGON. Day. 1.–Through Tung-chi-mên to Sun-ho 40 đi, to SAN-CHIA TIEN 30 li-sleep. Roads muddy. Cross river by boat. 2.—To To-SHAN (care to be taken not to lose the road turning out of the Niu-yung-shan) cross the Pei-ho. Inn at Lo-shan good, on to MI-YUEN-HSIEN, 30 li, cross the Chao-ho just before en- tering it. River too deep generally for riding. Take boats, ponies led. Inn at Mi-yuen-hsien, good. 3.-T. SHIH-ASIA, 60 li, low hills pretty country (at Chao-tu- chuang 40 li, an inn very poor) road good. Inn at Shih-hsia very good. To KU-PI-KOU, fair road. Several small streams (one large one Ch’ao-ho) whole road is an ascent-(gradual.) Inn at Ku-pei-kou “jung-shan-tien,” fair. Pretty town. Passports demanded. 4.-Some little trouble at the gate about passports ; 30 li to Tai- NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. 53 Mahommedan mosque, and a large number of Turks live in its vicinity, whose ancestors were brought from Turkestan about a century ago ; this part of the city is consequently the chief resort of all Mahommedans coming to the capital from lli. There are several other mosques, but this is the only one worth the inspection of strangers. It is built of white stone and the unmistakeable Moorish arch arabesqued with Persian characters invariably attracts attention from its contrast with all other buildings in the city. The reason of its erection as given by Chinese historians is as follows. The Emperor Chien Lung had a favourite wife that had been pre- sented to him as tribute by one of the Arabian Princes who at that time maintained a nominal subjection to the Chinese Empire. After a few years home sickness began to prey upon her, and aware as she was that a return to her native country was impossible (as Chinese law forbade it) she prayed the Emperor to devise some means to recall some of the home scenes associated with her youth by build- ing a mosque which should be visible to her from the palace walls when inclined to look abroad. The Emperor complied with her wishes and hence the appearance of a Moorish building within the walls of Peking. A great number of Mahommedans are living in the lanes imme- diately surrounding the mosque. The females are in many cases, despite the dirt which encrusts their faces very good looking and evidently of a class of beauty foreign to the soil they inhabit. Their manners are frank and pleasing, and they are fond of claiming acquaintanceship with foreigners on the score of the God of the Christians and the Allah of their own religion being in attributes) the same. Inside the Ping-tru-mên is the Ti-wong-miao a temple which is only worth visiting as being a good specimen of that description of building. Horses and carts are not allowed to pass immediately in front of the gate but are obliged to make a detour and pass behind a wall which runs parallel to it. 56 NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. in breadth and width, and is thought much of by the Chinese. There is also at no great distance from this an aged tree which will contain more than 30 men in its hollow trunk. It is known as the Cham-chi-sung. Immediately outside the An-ting-mên (in the North wall) are situ- ated the Lama temples called Hei-ssu and Huang-ssu. The latter is said by the Chinese to have been a residence of one of the early Emperors but the statement is unlikely. This temple contains a piece of sculpture known as the Han-po-yu which, during the late war attracted the particular attention and admiration of Lord Elgin. The plain between this and the Walls of Peking is the drill ground of the Imperial troops. The drill as a rule takes place early, 5 o'clock being the usual hour. Before proceeding to mention the most remarkable temples, &c, which are to be seen to the Northward of Peking it will perhaps be as well to notice the most celebrated spot (in the eyes of foreigners at least) which the province of Chili boasts—Yuen-ming-yuen. To give the reader some idia of its former magnificence it may be in- teresting to quote Dr Williams' description which as far as one can now judge was tolerably correct. “The park of Yuen-ming-Yuen' i.e., (Round and Splendid gardens), so celebrated in the history of the foreign embassies to Peking lies about eight miles north west of the city, and is estimated to contain twelve square miles. The country in this direction rises into gentle hills, and advantage has been taken of the natural surface in the arrangement of the different parts of the ground, so that the whole presents every variety of hill and dale, woodlands and lawns, inter- spersed with canals, pools, rivulets and lakes, the banks of which have been thrown up or diversified in imitation of the free hand of nature. Some parts are tilled, groves and tangled thickets occur here and there, and places are purposely left wild in order to con- trast the better with the highly cultivatad precincts of a palace, or to form a rural pathways to a retired summer-house. Barrow says 60 NOTES FOR TOURISTS IN THE NORTH OF CHINA. Miao-feng-shan is a small temple situated on a lofty hill some three thousand feet in height at about 30 miles from Peking in a N. West direction. The ascent in some parts is very laborious and there is a certain part of the road called the “San-pai-liu-shih-ko-po- chou-rh” i.e., “ the 360 elbows." The actual number of turns is 52, and it requires some courage to ascend in a chair, as the natives frequently do, a false step on the part of one's bearers being attend- ed with most unpleaseant consequencer. The view from the temple is very grand but not very extensive, the valley of the Hun-ho which is the only low ground visible being shut in by the hilly ranges of the Hsi shan. The temple of Hei-lung-tan is well worth visiting both on account of its natural beauties as well as the civility and accommodation which is there to be met with ; it is about 17 miles from Peking. Within the walls is a beautiful pool fed by a spring whence the name of the temple—“Black Dragon "-is derived. The dragon is said to inhabit this pool and offerings are made to him on the marble terrace and steps by which one descends to the water. At one end of the pool (which is about fifty feet across and fornis a magnificent swimming bath) is a small house which is usually let to visitors during the summer bonths. The presiding deity is the Lung-wang or rain God, who, clothed in a yellow robe sits in wooden dignity in the highest part of the demple. The robe is said to have been conferred on his Godship to atone for certain rough treatment which he underwent in the time of Chion Lung as, not causing rain to come down when wanted, he was carried off into Mongolia with an iron chain round his neck. Just as his escort arrived at the borders of China rain began to pour down in the most liberal man- ner, so he was taken back to his old situation in the temple and clothed in a yellow garment from the Emperor's orth wardrobe an honor which in Chinese eyes fully compensated for any amount of previous ill treatment. The temple of Pi-yün-ssu is usually considered to be the finest