-OURRIS-PENINSULAM-AMCNAM
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN.
2017
LIBRARY
ARTES
SCIENTIA
VERITAS
OF THE
TDEBOR
TECUMSPICE
GREIDDU SACOV.V.
THE GIFT OF
H. H. Bartlett





1
0
as












Lith. of Engicott & swert
THE ASPASIA, CAPE HORN bearing N.by E.50 Leagues


VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD;
WITH SELECTED SKETCHES OF
VOYAGES TO THE SOUTH SEAS,
NORTH AND SOUTH PACIFIC OCEANS,
CHINA, ETC.,
PERFORMED
UNDER
THE
COMMAND AND
AGENCY OF
THE
AUTHOR.
ALSO,
INFORMATION
RELATING
TO
IMPORTANT
LATE DISCOVERIES;
BETWEEN THE YEARS 1792 AND 1832,
TOGETHER WITH THE REPORT OF THE COMMANDER OF THE FIRST
AMERICAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION, PATRONISED BY THE UNITED
STATES GOVERNMENT, IN THE BRIGS SERAPH
AND ANNAWAN, TO THE SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE.
BY EDMUND FANNING.
NEW YORK :
COLLINS & H A N NA Y.
MDCCC XXXIII.


GRAD
시시 ​0
F213
Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1833, by
E. A. NEXSEN,
in the Clerk's office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern
District of New York.
SLEIGHT & VAN NORDEN, PRINT.


له من قبل
، ۔
i-
ΤΟ
THE AMERICAN PEOPLE
THIS VOLUME IS MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED,
IN TESTIMONY OF HIS HIGH ADMIRATION
OF THEIR CHARACTER AS AN
ENLIGHTENED NATION,
BY THE AUTHOR.





CONTENTS.
page 9
page 13
page 17
INTRODUCTION.
CHAPTER I.-Voyages in which the author obtains a knowledge of
seamanship, and other nautical affairs.-Voyages from Stonington and
New London. The author repairs to New York.-Character of his first
captain out of that port. — Voyages to Curracoa.
CHAPTER II. Difficulty in procuring officers for the brig.-Departure
from New York.-Dispute between the captain and pilot.-Its conse-
quence.-Arrival at the Cape De Verds.-Water, &c.-Ceremony of cross-
ing the line.--The dislike of the seaman thereto.- Arrival at the Falkland
Islands.-Disappointment in expecting a savory dish from shark's meat.
---Michael, and his exploit.-Overthrow of the sealing party by the sea
lions.–Tussuc grass.-- Return to New York.
CHAPTER III.- Arrival of the ship at Norfolk.-Crew desert.--Are
brought back to duty.-Leave Norfolk. --The ship is fired upon by a Bri-
tish cutter, and taken.- A prize master is put on board.-Bound for a
port in England.-Off Falmouth.-Retaken by a British frigate.--Cargo
paid for at an appraised valuation:-Friendship of the Lord Mayor of Fal-
mouth.--Dinner at his house. --Arrival of an English frigate with her
prize.—Hot press.-Men taken from all the merchantmen in port.-Per-
plexity in this dilemma.--Assistance received from the Lord Mayor.-
Recovery of the majority of the Portland's mnen.-Dissatisfaction among
the captains at the consul's office.--Affair of the miners.-Departure from
Falmouth.-Storm at sea.---Arrival at New York.
CHAPTER IV.-Appointed to the command of a schooner.-Successful
speculation.-Curracoa.-Directions for entering this harbor.-Its market.
-Evade the blockading squadron.-Subsequent capture and release.-
Reluctance of the prize officer to quit the schooner. -Safe return to New
York.—The ship Portland captured and condemned.
CHAPTER V.-Preparation for the projected voyage.—The vessel and
crew.-Departure of the Betsey from New York.
CHAPTER VI.Crew mustered, and liberty given to return, to all so
inclined.—The Island of St. Michael's.-Brought to by the English fri-
gate, the Romulus.-After examining the brig's papers, she is released.-
Sea water much colored.—Island of Bonavista in sight. --Pilot received on
board.— The Betsey altered into a ship.
CHAPTER VII. -Departure from the Cape De Verd Islands.-Numbers
of Spanish mackerel taken.--AMicting results from eating of the mack-
erel and dolphin.—Difference in the manner of preparing them.-The boy
Henry falls overboard.-Is rescued.--His collectedness.-Coast of Patago-
nia.-Bay of Sinfonda.- Arrival at the Falkland Islands.--First party on
shore.--Description of a South Sea bird rookery, and birds.- Jonathan's
great surprise on beholding these.---The landing of the penguins.--Their
page 30
.
page 55
page 65
page 70


vi
CONTENTS.
page 77
page 98
page 108
hindrance and destruction by the sea lions.-Directions for preserving
penguin's eggs for a length of time.--Falkland Islands, their vegetables,
water, cattle, amphibious animals, fish, birds, and berries.---Disappoint-
ment in tho dried kelp.- Jonathan's regard for good living.
CHAPTER VIII. -Departure from the Falkland Islands.—Sight of
the Island of Staten Land.- Jonathan's speculative notion.--His plan for
successfully completing the same.-Strong current observed off Cape St.
John's.-Recommendations for doubling Cape Horn.-Set of the current.
-Albatrosses, penguins, &c.—Island of Massafuero in sight.-Juan
Fernandez.
CHAPTER IX. -Boats leave the ship to reconnoitre the shore.— The se-
cond officer, in an attempt to land, loses the boat, which is stove to pieces.
-Manner of sending provisions to him and fellow-seamen.—Discovery of
water on the island. - Its situation.--Novel mode of fishery.- Anchoring
ground.--Anxiety of the officers and men to make sure of a full cargo.
Preparations for leaving Massafuero.-Number of seals left at the island.
-Remarks relating thereto.-Departure.—The ship furnished with a new
suit of rigging at sea.--Hood Island.-La Domineaque Island. - Island of
St. Pedrie.--Its inhabitants.—Traffic with the natives of La Domi-
neaque.
CHAPTER X. -Shyness of the natives.—Difficulty in trading with them:
-Their cautious conduct.-Fragrance of their valleys.-Scarcity of pro-
visions among them.--Arrival at La Christiana.—Unexpected visiters.-
The Rev. William P. Crook. His statements in reference to the island.-
An Italian renegado.-His wicked plans and enterprises.-Watch placed
over Mr. Crook and friend.—Their escape.-Scheme for capturing the
Betsey.-Chief leaves the ship with his present.-Departure from the
Marquesas Islands.-New manner of eating fish.--Arrival at the Wash-
ington group.-Hostile attitude of the natives.- Imminent risk of the ship
and crew.--Her narrow escape.--Native names of islands.-Leave the
Washington Islands.-Arrival at Nuggoheeva.
CHAPTER XI.-Unwillingness of the natives to come on board the ship,
Mode of trading with them.-Timidity of an aged chief.- Plan to get
him on board, which succeeds.-Presentation of peace offerings.- Visit
every part of the ship with the old chief, the better to secure his confi-
dence, without success. This is finally obtained by the present of a rob-
bin.-
Present received from the king: -Party sent after water.—The aged
chief, Tearoroo, again visits the ship, in company with the regent.-A
taboo is obtained in answer to our application for one. The regent's
short
remedy for a small evil.-Offer of a second taboo.—
The Rev. Mr. Crook
passes a night on shore.--Invitation to visit the king accepted.Hostages
arrive on board.—Reception at landing-Order of march.--A singular
manæuvre.- Poor steward's fright.- Arrival at, and description of, the
king's residence. The young king, and the queen mother. --Ceremony
of introduction.-Presentation of the plate to the king.–Attendant re-
joicings.-Unexpected interruption of proceedings. Return to the ship.-
Loss of our azimuth compass, by being stolen from the cabin.—Though
broken to pieces, these are returned through the exertions of the king and
regent.-A party of fifty of the ladies of the court, attended by some of
the chiefs, visit the ship. Their departure.—The ship leaves the Bay of
Paypayachee.-Disinclination of the regent to leave his friend.-Sõme
description of the people.--Their disposition and manners. The valley of
Tiuhoy.--Remarks upon the Bay of Paypayachee.
CHAPTER XII.Discovery of New York and Nexsen's Islands.-Cape
Brintnall.--Fanning's Islands, and a description of them.-The bay.--
Excellent fishing.--New and beautiful species of bird. --Discovery of
page 125
page 156


CONTENTS.
vii
page 215
page 254
page 269
some ancient burying places. Contents of one of these piles.-Discovery
of Washington Ísland.--Coral reef.-Singular occurrence.--Palmyra's
Ibland. --Its situation.-Sperm whale ground. ---July 4th.--Island of Ti-
nian. --Shipwrecked crew.-
:-Their residences.--Manner of conducting a
cattle hunt.-Malays left on the island.---Leave Tinian Island with the
rescued company.--Affair with the Chinese fishermen.
CHAPTER XIII.-Anchor in Macoa roads.--Land at the city.--Expe-
rience some trouble from the mandarin, on account of our female passen-
gers.-The Hon. Mr. Hall, President of B. E. I. Company.--Obtain a
pilot and chop for Canton.--Passengers for Canton.-Land at a Chinese
fort.-Are entertained. The country.--Speedy gratification of an invalid's
wish.-Politeness of the Commodore of the B. E. I. Company's fleet at
Wampoa.-Directions for conducting business at Canton.--Chinese house
of worship.-Description of the same, and ceremonies.
CHAPTER XIV.--Departure from Canton, in company with a ship
bound for Philadelphia. - Watched by piratical proas.-Their fleet disco-
vered drawn up behind a point.-Desertion of our consort.-Advance of
the pirates.--Fight with the same. They are defeated and retreat.-
Continue on our course.--Arrival at Cracatoa.-Report of Malay traders
brought there by a Dutch despatch schooner.-Ship on fire. -Violent
gales.—Montague light.-Arrival at New York. Result of the voy-
age.
CHAPTER XV. - The corvette Aspasia. -Departure from New York.
-The British frigate Cleopatra.- Arrival at Pernambuco.-Landing at
the city.--Reception by the governor.-Present sent off to the ship.--In-
vitation from a nobleman.- Visit to his extensive garden.--Non-existence
of Isle Saxenburgh.---Loss of Mr. Sheffield.- Tristian de Cunha.--For-
mation of ice to the ship's sides.-Exposed situation of the crew.-Spar-
row Bay.--Absence of the Regulator's crew.-Severity of the gales in
Woodward's Harbor.-Excellent cod-fish caught in this harbor.- Forma-
tion of ice, iceislands, &c., with some remarks thereupon.-Departure
from Woodward's Harbor.--Double Cape Horn.-St. Mary's.- Arrival at
Valparaiso.- Are there shortly detained.-Whaling ground.--Arrival at
Canton.-Visit to the interior of the city.–Brush with a British sixty-four
gun ship in the Borneo Sea.--Return to New York.
CHAPTER XVI. -The brig Union.-Departure from New York.—Dis-
cover Borders Island.-Build a schooner of forty tons, in which the first
officer sails to king George the Third's Sound.-Brig and schooner leave
Union Harbor.-Discovers the South Antipodes.-Engagement with Mr.
Lord.--Arrival of the Union at Tongataboo.-Massacre of the captain and
others.--Hostile intentions upon the brig.--Escape of a white woman from
the savages.--Her account of the massacre of the crew of the ship Duke
of Portland.--Destruction of the renegado Dogle.—Wreck of the brig,
and loss of all her crew.--Conduct of Mr. Lord of Sydney.
CHAPTER XVII.—Ship Catharine.-Leaves New York.-Arrival at
king George the Third's Sound.-Conduct of the natives.—A breakfast
party.-Game found at this sound.-Search for the Crozetts.- Winter at
the Cape of Good Hope.--Succeed in finding the Crozetts.-Search after
the letter left at Prince Edward's Island.-Straits of Sunda.--Arrival at
New Island.–Attack made upon the Catharine by a piratical fleet.-— They
are beaten off.- Visit of a Dutch officer.
CHAPTER XVIII. - The sea elephant. Their size.--Their excellent
tongues.- Process of trying out their blubber.-Best method for shrink-
ing oil casks.-Sea leopards.-Description of them, and where found.-
Sea lions, and account of their ways.-Fur seals.- Where found. Their
approach to the land.-Directions for preserving their skins.
page 283
-
page 314
page 330
page 347


viii
CONTENTS.
page 360
page 419
CHAPTER XIX. Ship Volunteer.-Leaves Sandy Hook.-Arrival at,
with directions for working up, Port Lewis Bay.-Situation of the Volun-
teer.-Proceeds from the Falklands round Cape Horn.--Anchor in Co-
quimbo harbor.- Permission given by Gomez to overhaul the ship.-Cor-
respondence.—The author lands.—Is imprisoned.-Meeting with his son.
- Is set free.-The ship again boarded.--Her company again carried to
the shore.-Shortly after released.—Party of soldiers board the ship and
take off her powder.-Departure from Coquimbo.-Volcano on Narbo-
rough Island.-Excellent pears.-Sad accidents.-Departure from the
Falkland Islands, and arrival at New York.
CHAPTER XX.-Ship Sea Fox.-Whaling grounds.-Storm at sea.-
Wounded seamen. Kindness of Captain B. Beecher and passengers.
Return to New York.—Brig Hersilia.-Aurora Islands.—Rediscovery of
the New South Shetlands.—Deception Island.—Hot springs.-Brig Fre-
derick, and other vessels, leave Stonington.-Arrive at the Shetlands.-
Discovery of Palmer's Land.-Meeting between the two Russian discovery
ships and the sloop Hero.-Palmer's Land, as reported by Captain N. B:
Palmer.-Schooner Pacific.-Discovers Potter's Island.-Prince's Island.
-Willey's Island.-Christmas Island.--Description of them.-Sea tiger,
and description of it.
CHAPTER XXI. -Sundry islands, and description of them.-Their
situations, and by whom discovered.
CHAPTER XXII. Sandal wood.-Where and how to be procured.
Its uses.—Josh paper.-Wild nutmeg-trees.--Eatable bird's nests.-Man-
ner of collecting and preserving them.—Beach la mer.-Where and how
to be obtained. - How to be preserved.-Coral moss.-Mother-of-pearl.-
How procured.
CHAPTER XXIII. Superiority of the inner and outer passages over
the middle.—Practicability of reaching the south pole.-Extent of Palm-
er's Land.-Extensive bank.
CHAPTER XXIV. - Brigs Seraph and Annawan depart from the United
States.-Mutinous spirit of the crews.--Landing of Messrs. Reynolds and
Watson at Arauco.-Guafo Island.—The inhabitants of Arauco.—The
productions of the country.-Note from the Department of State.--Some
remarks.
CHAPTER XXV.-Intended expedition.--Colonel Barclay's letter. -
Commodore King's letter.--Straits of Magellan recommended as a pas-
sage to be preferred to doubling the Horn.
page 447
page 455
page 467
page 479
page 492
3


INTRODUCTION. .
In presenting to the public the following narra-
tion of Voyages, &c., the author has thought
proper to introduce the same with a sketch of
the earlier period of his life, premising that the
unsettled state of the country at that time,
engaged in war with Great Britain, possessing
but few opportunities, and those few confined
mostly to the cities, in the improvement of
which the inhabitants could obtain ought more
than an ordinary education ; together with the
little leisure that a seaman's profession, ever
since steadily prosecuted, has allowed him, to
increase the instruction obtained from the tutor
in charge of the school of his native borough,
and the possibility that it would ever fall to his
2


х
INTRODUCTION.
lot to publish any thing connected with hiyself
never entering his mind, must plead in excuse
for any grammatical errors that criticism may
discover in these pages. In fact, nothing has
induced him to place their contents before the
public eye, but an earnest desire that his friends
and countrymen may obtain such information,
as while it shall please and instruct by bringing
to the circle around the fire-side events as they
occurred in those far distant climes, shall also
lay before others whose business may call them
that way, such suggestions as when faithfully
followed will promote their advantage, and be
of service to them.
The author's father, Gilbert Fanning, was one
of four brothers, viz. Thomas, Phineas, Gilbert,
and Edmund. Of these, Thomas and Edmund,
(from the last of whom the present Captain
Edmund is named) embraced the Royal cause,
and were warmly engaged in furthering the
interests of his Brittanic majesty. The latter,
during a considerable portion of the struggle,
was in command as colonel of a regiment, in
the city of New York; he afterwards rose to
the rank of general, and concluded his earthly


INTRODUCTION.
xi
career at his residence in Portman-square, Lon-
don, in the year 1813.
Phineas and Gilbert, on the contrary, chose
the side of the infant colonies, and throughout
that eventful period, so truly described as
trying men's souls,” were earnest and ardent
advocates in favor of the liberties of their
country. Gilbert, being in the commissary line,
was actively engaged in providing and supply-
ing the army under General Washington : he
resided at Stonington, county of New London,
state of Connecticut, at which place I was
born, July 16th, 1769.
There were in our family eight brothers: the
eldest, Nathaniel, was a midshipman in the
navy, and private secretary to the celebrated
Captain John Paul Jones, at the time of the
bloody engagement between his ship, the Good
Man Richard, and H. B. M. ship of war, the
Seraphis. He died durir
He died during the second term of
Mr. Jefferson's administration, while in com-
mand at the United States Naval Station,
Charleston, S. C.
The next eldest, Gilbert, was captured while
on a cruise in the private armed schooner Wea-


XA
INTRODUCTION.
sel, and with Thomas, a younger brother, with
him at the time, was taken to New York and
confined on board the Jersey prison-ship, where
Gilbert, after an unfortunate failure in an at-
tempt to escape, died, and his bones now
moulder in peace, mingled with those of other
patriots who perished on board this loathsome
ship. Shortly after his death, the before men-
tioned Colonel Edmund Fanning, then stationed
in the city, being informed of Gilbert's death,
and in addition to this learning that Thomas
was dangerously sick, procured his removal to
a lodging provided for him in the city, where,
after much good nursing, he recovered, was
exchanged, and returned to his parents in
Connecticut.
All the other brothers followed the sea, and
are all deceased ; myself, by the goodness of
Heaven, still remaining among the living, and
tendering with much respect this plain history
of voyages to my fellow-citizens, confident that
at least my nautical brethren may deem them
worth a perusal.


VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD,
ETC.
CHAPTER I.
Voyages in which the author obtains the knowledge of seamanship,
and other nautical affairs.-- Voyages from Stonington and New
London.— The author repairs to New York.-Character of his
first captain out of that port.-Voyages to Curracoa.
At the early age of fourteen years the author
commenced going to sea as cabin boy; and in
the performance of several coasting and West
India voyages out of Stonington and New Lon-
don, rose through the regular grades of a sea-
man, second, and then first mate; and after
performing in the last mentioned station three
voyages to the West Indies, came to the resolu-
tion, in company with a kinsman, Mr. Asa Ros-
siter, to repair to, and sail from, the port of
New York, as there were no prospects of a field
opening for us, suitable to our then ambitious
views and desires, at our native place. We
therefore immediately repaired to that city,


14
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
where upon our arrival, being entire strangers,
we took a stroll among the shipping, to look
up a voyage, which at last was obtained on
board a brig belonging to the Messrs. Murry,
Mumford, & Bowen, commanded by Captain
Miller, who, though unacquainted with either
of us, yet consented to give us a voyage.
But at this juncture, the report of his charac-
ter came near discouraging my companion ;
for the captain had obtained among the sea-
men of the port, that of being the “hardest
horse” a man could sail with, as that he had
learned his trade, said they, in and by several
voyages he had performed to Africa, after
slaves : the house, however, owned several ves-
sels, and was in good standing; there was,
therefore a road to advancement, and the
pros-
pect of steady employ, could we also muster
determination, notwithstanding the captain's
notorious severity, to persevere in the perform-
ance of our daties, and give satisfaction, we
should eventually succeed, though for the pre-
sent we suffered much. These arguments being
duly weighed, and being previously pledged to
ship and sail together, were conclusive: accord-
ingly, we went on board the brig, bound on a
voyage to the south side of Hispaniola, to be
absent about six months, during which we had


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
15
the good fortune to please our hard captain so
well, that upon the arrival of the brig at Aux
Cayes, both mates being discharged, Rossiter
was chosen second, and myself as first mate, in
their stead, in which capacities we performed
duty the remainder of the voyage. Neverthe-
less, this man was beyond doubt, one of the
most unfeeling officers that ever walked the
quarter-deck. Scarce a night passed but we
were on deck-duty until twelve or one o'clock,
attending to his company on board, or waiting
to receive him, with a lantern, at the gang-way,
upon his return from visiting; so that since my
elevation to the officer's berth, my rest, for the
remainder of the voyage, was not over four in
every twenty-four hours.
While at Aux Cayes, receiving our homeward
cargo, there lay moored along side for some
weeks, a vessel belonging to Mr. Elias Nexsen,
merchant, of New York, commanded by his
brother, Captain Nexsen, from whom, on the
return of our brig to New York, I received an
invitation to engage in the employ of his bro-
ther, which was accepted; Captain Miller
giving the usual recommendations, at the same
time observing, that to remain with him I
should have my own terms. The same propo-
sition was made to Mr. Rossiter, who has since


16
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
commanded some of the finest ships out of the
port of New York, and declined.
This house was embarked in the Curracoa
trade, and to this port the author performed
several voyages under Captain Hook.


CHAPTER II.
FIRST VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, IN 1792 AND 1793.
Difficulty in procuring officers for the Brig.-Departure from New
York.—Dispute between the captain and pilot.--Its consequence.
- Arrival at the Cape De Verd.—Water, &c.-Ceremony of
crossing the line.—The dislike of the seamen thereto.- Arrival at
the Falkland Islands.-Disappointment in expecting a savory
dish from shark’s meat.-Michael, and his exploit.-Overthrow of
the sealing party by the sea-lions.— Tussuc grass.—Return to
New York.
This voyage came highly recommended to the
mind of Mr. Nexsen, as an enterprise in every
way worthy his attention, and promising to
be, from the high value he was informed that
the South Sea fur seal skins were held at in
Canton, one of great profit, and although a new
field, yet so encouraging, that in company with
some friends, it was resolved upon sending out
a vessel to procure a cargo suitable for the Chi-
nese market. Accordingly the brig Betsey was
taken up, and after being overhauled prepara-
tory to so long a voyage; was fitted out with
every necessary article that could be conceived
as in any way likely to add to the comfort of
her officers
or men,
3


18
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
Great difficulty was experienced in finding
officers acquainted with this new business, in
our then young commercial community, to take
the charge of the brig: however, after much
delay, a Mr. William Whetton, who had per-
formed a voyage out of England, in the Green-
land Whale and Seal Fishery, and was an able
and experienced seaman, was shipped as second
nate, (myself being the first); still was the
expedition delayed for want of a captain. All
things were ready for sea, crew shipped, &c.,
when a Captain R. Steele applied for the com-
mand, and assured the owners he was ac-
quainted with seals of every kind, as also every
thing connected with the sealing business :
coming recommended too, unhappily for us,
he
was engaged as commander. The second day
after, being in May 1792, we weighed anchor,
and got the brig under full sail for sea.
While passing the Narrows, a dispute arose
between the captain and the pilot, about the
channel, during which so little attention was
given to the vessel and her course, that she was
run a ground on the west bank, it being then
falling water, where she remained until the
next flood, when at high tide we succeeded in
heaving her afloat, with but trifling damage.
We then proceeded on our voyage, and after a


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
19
somewhat lengthy passage, arrived at the Cape
De Verd Islands, and anchored in eleven fa-
thoms of water, on the south side of the island
of Fogo, for the purpose of obtaining wood,
water, and refreshments.
At this island the water is wretched: it is
filled from standing pools, which the inhabitants
call springs. And in these, we found the cattle
standing, seemingly little inclined to withdraw.
Their continued moving about while in them,
together with its brackishness, and being
strongly impregnated with sulphur, makes the
water totally unfit for sea supply, for after be-
ing a short time on board, it becomes extremely
offensive, and cannot be used but in the most
urgent cases. The beef, goats, hogs, and fowls,
are tolerably good and cheap. The yams, po-
tatoes, pumpkins, &c., were procured in abun-
dant supply, and at very reasonable charges.
While at anchor in the road, the volcano of
this island burst into full operation. Large
stones were thrown to an immense height in
the air, and with the burning lava pouring down
on every side, accompanied by a loud roaring, as
of distant thunder, was one of the most beauti-
ful and awful sights ever witnessed. The decks
of our vessel, though at the distance of three


20
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
quarters of a mile from the shore, were covered
nightly with the ashes and cinders.
On leaving Fogo, we passed near the island
of Bravo, upon which some beautiful green val-
lies were to be seen; then stood to the south-
eastward, and crossed the equator in about
twenty-four degrees west longitude from
London.
On crossing the line, our captain being in
that turn of mind, caused all the crew to be
confined below (with the exception of the offi-
cers and three favorites), and had them called
up singly, to go through the ordeal which all
persons on their first appearance in this part of
the globe, have long been subjected to. Not
an individual on board ever having crossed the
equinoctial line, of course in justice all were
liable to this portion of Neptune's strict laws,
captain and all. "But,” said he, “by my in-
fluence with his Oceanic Majesty, myself, offi-
cers, and my three favorites are excused.” At
this moment Neptune received an invitation to
come on board; which being complied with, his
said highness was quickly arrayed in the most
singular and uncouth fashion. The ceremony
was commenced, and speedily finished, our cap-
tain being greatly delighted with what, in his
opinion, was a most jovial and brilliant affair.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
21
Not so, however, with the seamen; for during
the remainder of the voyage, those who were
subjected to it, were inveterate in their dislike
to all whom they thought instrumental in bring-
ing it upon them.
As we proceeded toward the south, had sight
of the island of Trinidad or Ascension, passed
by its west end at about one league distant,
and saw a fine stream of water falling down a
precipice, for a supply of which we stood greatly
in need, that on board being of a very bad qua-
lity. However, did not stop, but crowded sail
to the southward for the Falkland Islands,
where we arrived in the month of September.
On our arrival, learned that the seals were up
in great numbers on some of the outer islands :
we found here, to our great disappointment,
that our captain, notwithstanding his declara-
tions when he engaged with the owners, had
not the least knowledge of the sealing business;
in fact, he did not know the male from the fe-
male seal. Therefore, we were under an obli-
gation to our friends and countrymen who had
arrived at these islands, for the information re-
quisite in taking the seals, and preserving their
skins.
On the 7th of August last, after passing
Trinidad, at about five bells P. M. (half past


22
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
two), my watch on deck, the brig going at the
rate of about one and a half miles per hour,
saw an appearance off the quarter deck of
something like a fish, keeping way with the
vessel. Thinking it to be a large dolphin, took
the harpoon, to which was attached a coil of
whale line, and let drive at the object: I was
fortunate in striking just abaſt the main wing
fin of a large shark, perhaps the easiest part of
the whole body to be entered by such a weapon.
We soon hauled him along side, and by intro-
ducing a running bowline noose at the end of a
large rope, over the flanks of his tail, and hook-
ing the watch tackle to it, in a very short time
had him flouncing on deck. He was of the kind
seamen call the shovel-nose, and measured ten
and a half feet in length.
Some years previous to this, on a winter pas-
sage from the West Indies to the United States,
when being thrice driven off the coast to the
southern edge of the gulf stream, and many
days without any salt provisions, we caught a
shark of about the same size, which was im-
mediately cut up, and each man's portion given
him: some being fried, was thought at that
time to be the sweetest meat or fish ever tasted.
Remembering this, our steward received direc-
tions to prepare some of the choicest cuts from


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
23
our present prize, and fry them for breakfast,
expecting the same to be a bang-up: but, sadly
to our discomfiture, when brought upon the table
the following morning, it was found to be so
intolerably strong, and withal of such bad odor,
that it was impossible to impose it upon our
olfactory nerves, much less think of eating any
part of it. Our disappointment was very great,
for even the men were made to expect a rare
treat: and more speedily than the half picked
bones of a bit of roast beef would have been,
was this unsavory dish thrust out of the cabin.
Our want of knowledge in the sealing busi-
ness was made very manifest in the outset; for
shortly after the vessel was moored in the har-
bor, a party, consisting of myself, boatswain,
and thirteen men, started out on the first seal-
hunting excursion from the brig. Among the
number there was an uncommonly large and
stout Irishman, named Michael, commonly
called Mike, who had been just landed in
New York previous to his shipping: one of
those good natured honest sort of fellows; pos-
sessed too, of a great abundance of that ready
wit peculiar to his fellow-countrymen, so well
calculated to excite laughter and keep men in
good spirits. Mike was often on the passage out
telling how he would slay the large bull-seals,


24
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
and declaring to his shipmates, that with his
shilelah he would soon kill tiers of them. Our
lookout was posted on an elevated hill near the
north end of the island, where two bays of
some extent put in, each of which had a sandy
beach at their head, divided nearly in the centre
by a projecting rocky point. On the wester-
most beach (which was the farthest one from
our lookout), some rods up from the margin of
the water, lay about three hundred sea-lions.
These being the first that had come within our
view on the land, we took them to be a flock
(or rookery, as was the term) of the real fur
seals, after which we were searching. Upon
this discovery, the men were divided into two
parties, the boatswain taking six, with orders
to make a circle on the upland at a proper
dis-
tance, so as to keep from disturbing the lions,
and to arrive at the rocky point on the farther-
most side of the bay, at the end of the beach on
which they lay. While the remaining few, Mike
being of this number, under my own command,
took station at the nearer rocky point between
the two bays, under cover behind the rocks, there
to wait until the boatswain and party should have
arrived at, and left the farthermost point, when
both were to advance in Indian file, and meet-
ing, would thus cut off the seals from the water,


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
25
and drive them back on the upland; (as we had
been informed that by getting between the seals
and the water, at the same time hallooing and
raising a loud shout, they would turn to the up-
land, and could then be easily driven to a con-
venient place for butchering) our party being
thus brought to within one hundred yards of the
nearest of the flock, were presented with the
view of these giant animals.
“Sir!" exclaimed Mike, as we were wonder-
ing whether our small vessel, of one hundred
tons, could carry many thousand such mam-
moths, “ do you think these overgrown monsters
are seals ?" Surely they are, he was quickly
answered; and as you are much the stoutest
man among us, step here in advance, and lead
on. However, his courage was altogether out
of his reach at this most needy moment, and no-
thing can exceed the comical figure the man
presented, as he stood wavering between fear
to disobey, and fear to obey, thus exposing, as
he expressed it, “his precious body to be de-
voured by the shutting of the jaws of such mon-
strous cratures : indeed, sir, only look; by St.
Patrick!" and he pointed, all pale and trembling,
to a large lion, which at this moment gaping,
showed his rows of large ivory teeth, shook his
4


26
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
long and shaggy mane, and concluded the exhi-
bition with a tremendous roar.
Some of the men upon seeing this immediately
exclaimed, “we are willing to follow Mike, sir."
"Ah! honies,” he replied, “swate Ireland!"
Although much perplexed at this moment,
whether it was correct or prudent to risk the
lives of the men within reach of such, to all ap-
pearance, powerful animals, I could not refrain
from enjoying a hearty laugh, at the conclusion
of this pithy dialogue.
The prize seemed too good a one to be lost
without an effort to secure it, and so soon as the
boatswain's signal of being ready was produced,
both parties advanced against the common
enemy, each proving the goodness of his langs
in striving to out shout his companions. This
noise alarmed the lions, so that they imme-
diately rose, and sent forth a roar that appeared
to shake the very rocks on which we stood, and
in turn advancing upon us in double quick time,
without any regard to our persons, knocked
every man of us down with as much ease as if
we had been pipe stems, and passing over our
fallen bodies, marched with the utmost con-
tempt to the water.
After the drove had passed, we arose, much
gratified to find all had come off unharmed; but


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
27
at this instant, a lion of middling size was espied
just emerging from the high tussuck grass, (“tl.is
grass grows from bogs, the largest of which are
rising twenty feet in circumference, down to a
small size; called by the seamen, tussucks.
They are strewed over the sides of the hills and
vallies, and where the earth is the strongest
and most favorable, growing in so thick a mass,
and the blades of grass intwined in such
strength, that one cannot pass between them,
but must first cut a path through. The spears
or stalks spring out of those bogs in several flat
blades, encircling the pith over each fellow
blade, and although the parent stalk generally
is only about the size of a man's thumb, the
blades in their rankest state grow to the height
of eight or nine feet, so that a person walking
through a tussuck valley is entirely under cover,
and as much out of sight as he would be in the
centre of a field of our Indian corn. When at its
full height, at the time it puts forth its silky shoot
from the ear, a valley of this tussuck grass,
as waved by the breeze in a fine day, has, at
a little distance, much the appearance of Eng-
lish grain when nearly ripe, with a pleasing
green and tinged golden color,") against whom
we concentrated our forces, and after a battle,
during which he forced us down to the water's


28
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
edge, succeeded in slaying him. He was in
length about fourteen feet.
We felt at this moment, notwithstanding our
being so easily overpowered by the drove, that
we had obtained a victory, and in addition were
convinced, to our entire satisfaction, that these
were not fur seals.
The absence of Mike, during these past
events, was not observed; for in the midst of so
much confusion, as was caused by the first over-
throw, and the after victory, every man paid
strict obedience to nature's first law, caring only
for himself; but now that it was time to return
to the vessel, Mike was not to be found. Some
of the men at last discovered him, busily en-
gaged beating something with his club, by the
point of rocks the party had started from.
These, upon approaching, were found to be
about a dozen young hair seal pups, of from
one to ten, to fifteen days old, not sufficiently
strong to have moved out of his way, laying
closely huddled up by the side of the rocks.
Our party having learned what were not fur
seals, and wisdom enough to engage no more
sea-lions, after skinning our dead lion, and
taking with us his skin as a remembrance of
our hunting tour, took up the line of march,
and returned to the brig.


FANNING’S VOYAGES.
29
By great exertions, a full cargo of fur seal
skins was procured for the brig, by the month
of January; at which time, too, it became
very evident, Captain Steele was in no haste to
return.
This sacrifice of time was more than I felt
willing to submit to, and there offering, very for-
tunately at this time, a passage to New York,
with an old acquaintance, I obtained Captain
Steele's consent, and embraced the same, where
we arrived in March.
The Betsey, after visiting the West India
Islands, arrived in the month of June following,
and as soon as she was made fast to the wharf,
Captain Steele was informed that the owners
had no further service for him; Mr. Whetton
taking the charge.
Being absent from the city, upon my return,
Mr. Elias Nexsen, in behalf of the other owners,
having informed themselves of the occurrences
at the Falkland Islands, had directed my full
proportion of shares to be handed me; the same
as would have been the case had I remained
with the brig throughout the voyage.


CHAPTER IIJ.
VOYAGE TO ENGLAND.
Arrival of the ship at Norfolk.--Crew desert.–Are brought back
to duty. -Leave Norfolk.— The ship is fired upon by a British
cutter, and taken.-A prize master is put on board.—Bound for
a port in England.-Off Falmouth.—Retaken by a British fri-
gate.-Cargo paid for at an appraised valuation.-Friendship of
the Lord Mayor of Falmouth.—Dinner at his house.- Arrival of
an English frigate with her prize.—Hot press.-Men taken from
all the merchantmen in port.-Perplexity in this dilemma.-As-
sistance received from the Lord Mayor.—Recovery of the majo-
rity of the Portland's men.—Dissatisfaction among the captains
at the consul's office.-Affair of the miners.-Departure from
Falmouth.–Storm at sea.- Arrival at New York.
It is no doubt fresh in the minds of many
readers, that the distress of the people in
France, during the French Revolution of
1793–9 (for bread and bread stuffs), was very
great, and as a necessary consequence, of such
scarcity, that prices were accordingly high.
This well-ascertained fact was a sufficient in-
ducement to a people situated as were the
Americans, and possessing all their enterprise
and spirit of adventure, to undertake supplying
in part, the demand for these articles, although
the hazard attending the same was rendered


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
31
immensely great, from the many English crui-
sers that then swarmed along every portion of
the coast of France, and whose watchfulness
made it almost impossible for any vessel to
escape them.
It was at this period that the new ship Port-
land, (Captain Thomas Robinson, a very able
seaman, and afterwards in command of the
United States' frigates New York and John
Adams,) belonging to the house of Bowne &
Eddy, merchants of New York, lay at that port,
on board of which vessel the author entered as
first officer. The Portland was bound to Nor-
folk, there to take in a cargo of flour for France.
She sailed from New York early in May, and
four days after arrived at Norfolk, where she
received her cargo; things were in this state of
forwardness when a drawback was put upon
them by the desertion of all the hands, who had
immediately after, gone into the country; but oc-
casionally came in town, as appeared from infor-
mation afterwards obtained, and were in the habit
of passing their time at a boarding house on the
side hill; to this house, besides the front door at
the lower story on the street, there was another,
leading by a long wooden stoop to an alley,
which last was used as a security against sur-
prise, for, when alarmed by any unwelcome


32
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
guest at the front door, it was by this second
story that they would retreat.
One evening, hearing that the seamen were
in town, after obtaining the assistance of two
police officers, we repaired to the house, in
order, if not impossible, to bring them back to
duty. The leader of this desertion was one
Wright, an old seaman, with whom the author
was a great favorite; knowing this, Captain
Robinson directed him to go round to the door
in the rear, and there stand sentry, observing,
“they are, no doubt, led on by Wright, and your
influence with him will have much weight in
bringing about the desired result, should they
strive to escape that way;” the seamen, being
alarmed by the captain and police officers, at
the front door, as was conjectured, attempted
a hurried retreat at the upper door, under
Wright's direction, but seeing me with the boat's
tiller over my shoulder, Wright turned suddenly
round to his shipmates and called out, “here is
Mr. Fanning, with the holy stone (a large stone
fitted with a handle, similar to a scrubbing
brush, for scouring decks, and only known by
this name among seamen,) on his shoulder; we
may as well surrender.", I embraced this fortu-
nate opportunity, and remarked, “
you know,
Wright, that I am your friend, why do you con-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
33
duct thus ?" And, in answer to his inquiry
whether I would make peace with the cap-
tain, I assured him and them that the captain
would not "tighten their rigging” for them, they,
therefore, consented to go on board ship again,
where, for the remainder of the voyage, they
cheerfully did duty to the full satisfaction of the
captain. The ship now dropped down to
Hampton Roads, and on the next day put to sea,
bound for Havre, in France.
We had fine weather during the passage,
without any thing worthy of note occurring,
until, on soundings abreast of Scilly Isles, on
which day, early in the morning, a moderate and
fair breeze blowing at the time, accompanied
with a smooth sea, our ship was fired upon by
a British private armed cutter, which, upon our
bracing the maintopsail to the mast, and laying
the ship by, came under our stern and hailed;
"where are you from ? where bound to ?" to
which interrogations he received the reply of,
" from Norfolk, bound to Havre de Grace.”
“Then come immediately on board of me with
your papers," demanded he of the cutter; "if
you wish to examine my papers, you must come
on board my ship,” calmly replied our captain,
“ for I cannot consent to leave her.”
d-d yankee, hoist out your boat this instant and
" You
5


34
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
come on board, or I will sink you !" continued
the commander of the cutter. "I understand
my duty too well,” answered Captain Robinson;
"and your vulgar threat will not sway me from
it!" the last bravado from the cutter was suc-
ceeded by a discharge of musketry, the balls
whizzing over our heads.
Ever careful of the lives of his men, Captain
R. directed the topgallant sails to be run on the
cap, and every man sent below, adding, “Mr.
Fanning you had better follow, for I have a de-
sire to know if this boasting commander will
dare to carry his threat into execution;" I, how-
ever, declined; observing, that I preferred re-
maining at my station and take my chance with
him. After very handsomely peppering our sails
and upper rigging, which showed their pieces to
be well elevated, the tompions of their guns
were taken out and they made to bear upon the
ship, which maneuvre was followed by a threat,
couched in the same courteous language as its
predecessors, but producing no other notice than
the deliberate reply of Captain R., “ that if he
desired to examine the ship, it was necessary to
come on board for that purpose, for he would
not so far leave his duty as to obey the order,
“more especially," added Captain R., “as it
contains so much of the fine feelings of a gentle-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
35
man and officer under the flag of His Brittanic
Majesty." The firing here ceased, and an officer
from the cutter boarded the ship, and reported
her as being loaded with flour, and bound for
Havre; she of course was a prize, and having a
prize master with fifteen men placed on board,
who took possession of her, was steered for a
port in England.
When off Falmouth, we were fallen in with
by a British frigate, who, as the most summary
mode of procedure, sent a shot athwart our
forefoot, and brought us to. A boat from the
frigate, with seamen and marines, immediately
boarded the Portland, and, with the exception
of the prize master, sent the privateer's people
to the frigate; laying the course of the Portland
for Falmouth, at which pori she anchored the
next day. Here the cargo was subjected to an
examination, and after being appraised by two
merchants, the one chosen by the collector of
the port, and the other by Captain Robinson,
and according to their appraisal paid for, was
stored in the king's store-house: yet in order to
obtain the payment, it became necessary for
Captain R. to make a journey to London, with
a certificate of proceedings.
The day after the Portland's arrival in Fal-
mouth harbor, it was requisite for the captain


36
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
to take his first officer and two of the crew,
together with the ship's log book, before his
Honor the Lord Mayor, for the purpose of under-
going an examination in relation to the ship
and cargo. Upon the mention, by the clerk of
the court, of the first officer's name, his Honor,
looking earnestly at him, says, “Fanning ! pray,
Mr. Fanning, let me ask, are you a relative of
General Edmund Fanning, the Lieutenant Go-
vernor of Prince Edward's Island ?" I replied,
"I am, Sir, and have the honor of receiving my
name from that uncle.” “Indeed, my young
friend,” his Worship was pleased to observe,
after a cordial shake of the hand, “Your uncle
was my old and long tried friend, to whom I am
under many and weighty obligations; and you
cannot better please me, than by making my
house your home during your stay at Fal-
mouth." At the same time giving Captain
Robinson an invitation to spend the evening
with him, which was accepted; after completing
the investigation, the party were suffered to
return on board ship.
The next morning, Captain Robinson, while
relating the occurrences of the preceding eve-
ning, mentioned the particular inquiries of the
Lord Mayor in reference to his (the captain's)
first officer; saying, he knew I had got a


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
37
weighty friend in his Worship, and that it was
a fortunate bit for himself, as he believed, he
would be of no little service to him in his
present difficult business about the ship and
cargo; adding “He has already given me
liberty to mention any favor wanted, and has
insisted upon, and obtained my promise, to dine
with him and a few friends on the following
Wednesday, in company with yourself, that he
may have the pleasure of introducing you to
his friends; therefore," continued he,“ prepare
for that day.” This last caution was highly
needed; for to be thus without the least pre-
vious notice, taken into such favor, was an
honor as totally unexpected, as it was for me to
know what next was to come. However, en-
couraged by the captain, and thinking it best
not to shear off from, or push aside any good
fortune, I prepared for the day set, by “storing
and stantioning” my mind and fortitude suffi-
ciently well to get through the dinner campaign
with credit, and endeavour, if possible, not to
commit any blunder. The important day and
hour having arrived, in company with Captain
Robinson, repaired to the hotel, where we were
received by his Honor the Mayor, with a friendly
shake of the hand, and smiling countenance, by
whom we were kindly introduced to his friends,


38
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
in number about thirty, each wearing a large
powdered white wig, and bearing upon their
persons marks of royal favor, badges of honour,
&c. Dinner being announced, the company
forthwith proceeded to the apartment where
the same had been prepared. It was a rich
entertainment, and every thing to be desired
was there in great plenty; in truth, the table
was, through the several courses, loaded with
the best the Falmouth market afforded, after
which succeeded the deserts. Seated, by his
Worship, at his right hand, with Captain Ro-
binson at his left, so high, and in such company,
the author, then but a green yankee, and totally
unexperienced in the forms of such society, felt
like being in the wrong place, or, in other
words, as "a fish out of water," and with some-
thing akin to pleasure welcomed the breaking
up of the party, although to please his new
friend was his most earnest wish, and any thing
in his power would most cheerfully have been
bestowed, to add to the general good feeling
that prevailed during the dinner.
It was, in compliance with the Mayor's
pressing invitation, presented on the breaking
up of the dinner party, that the next day found
me, punctual to the hour, at his office; he was
alone, and after some conversation in relation


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
39
to the general, my uncle, observed, “ from what
Captain Robinson has given me to understand,
in regard to your history, my young friend, I
am very anxious to be of some service to you;
to do something that I am sure will be gratify-
ing to my old friend, the general; for I have
often heard him speak of you. Now suppose,'
continued this kind man, “that I should use my
exertions to procure you a commission, as lieu-
tenant in his Majesty's navy; you shall be under
no obligation, for I can readily, and will most
willingly, do it;" accompanying this offer with
that of funds, to enable me to move with credit
to the rank, until the voluntary task should be
taken from his hands by his friend, the general;
“and whom,” said he, “I know will be greatly
pleased with the proposal, and more só, to learn
that it was carried into effect.”
In reply, I observed to his Worship, that I
was at a loss for words to express my thanks
for his goodness, but having a wife and child in
America, being a republican in principle, and
too much attached to liberty and my country,
to enter the service of his Majesty, I must de-
cline; and these reasons must plead in excuse
for my not accepting his very parental and un-
merited proposal; yet it should always by me
be held in grateful remembrance.
22


40
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
At this, his Honor, taking me by the hand,
replied, “
my young friend, notwithstanding you
decline my proposition, I like you none the less
for your candor, and should you ever stand in
need, rely upon my friendly aid; and I again
insist upon your always considering my house
as your uncle's, and your own home.” To these
several specimens of good old English hospita-
lity, I could but give my warmest thanks in re-
turn, and shortly after took leave.
There is a pleasure in recounting and review-
ing these tokens of sincere friendship: they bear
their testimony to the truth of the existence of
the same, and are a sort of rallying point,
around which the best feelings of our nature
collect, preparatory to again encountering the
selfishness which, unfortunately, characterises
the dealings of man with his fellow-man. In
this particular case, it was pure disinterested-
ness on his part, for there was no personal ad-
vantage, or private gain, to be obtained by this
attention; the good understanding between this
worthy man and my uncle, being the sole cause;
and this would have remained the same, had no
attention been shown to me.
Captain Robinson had not yet returned from
London, whither it will be recollected he had
gone, to obtain pay for his flour as appraised,


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
when the British frigate
Sir E. P.,
arrived at Falmouth, bringing in with her as a
prize, the French frigate Cleopatra, which ves-
sel she had captured, after a severely contested
action.
This event, as might well be expected,
caused great exultation, and the most lively joy
was manifested at this additional trophy to the
prowess of their countrymen, by the townsmen;
the frigate, too, was again repaired, and made
ready for sea, with the utmost despatch. It
was necessary, however, to have more hands,
and for this purpose a hot press took place:
seamen were taken from all the vessels in port;
from the American vessels as well as others.
The second mate, carpenter, and all the hands,
excepting the steward and cabin boy, were
taken from the Portland.
In this dilemma, I repaired to Mr. Fox, the
American Consul, to inquire how to proceed, in
order to regain at least a portion of our men,
all being, to my knowledge, American citizens,
but two Swedes. Here were collected the cap-
tains of several American vessels, on the same
errand with myself. The consul said, the men
had been all taken to man Sir E. P.'s ship, who
was anxious to have the credit of putting to sea,
if possible, in the shortest time on record, after
6


42
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
such an important and brilliant victory, in order
to surprise his enemy; and standing now, as he
did, so high in favor with the government and
the people, it was requisite to be patient, mode-
rate, and judicious, in our movements: con-
cluding with a request that we would call at
his office the following day, when he would en-
deavor to see Sir E., who was in the habit of
landing daily from his ship, at eleven o'clock
A. M., at the pier directly in front of the con-
sul's office, and must pass up the street by the -
door, and he would then speak to him upon
the
subject.
The next day, while conversing at the office
upon our grievance, and keeping a lookout, Sir
E. landed as usual, accompanied by three other
gentlemen, to whom Mr. Fox advanced, and
politely bowing, lifted his hat, at the same time
mentioning the subject of the impressment of
of our men. He was answered with coldness,
receiving in return to his salutation, simply a
move of the head, and the remark, that want of
time rendered it impossible for him (Sir E.) then
to stop; leaving Mr. Fox at liberty to return
to us (in waiting). You see, gentlemen, said
he, I can do nothing for you, until time shall a
little cool the high feeling resulting from this
victory; adding, that if we thought fit to call at


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
43
his office daily, so soon as a favorable oppor-
tunity occurred, our business should be attended
to. We did call daily, receiving much the same
answer, with less prospect of success on the se-
cond and third days, if there was any altera-
tion, than appeared on the first. These conti-
nual fruitless efforts caused some of the captains
to scold at Mr. Fox very bitterly. While so un-
fortunate a state of things weighed very heavily
upon my young mind; having been left with
orders to have the ship ready for sea by the time
Captain R. returned from London.
It now occurred to me, that in all probability
my good and worthy friend, his Honor the
Mayor, was acquainted with Sir E., and would
be disposed to favor me with his assistance.
Therefore, without mentioning my intentions to
any person, I repaired to the Mayor's office, and
found him busily engaged writing; he arose,
and after a shake of the hand, requested me to
be seated. I mentioned the difficulty that had
been brought upon me, and that my present
visit was for aid and advice.
After giving a
statement of the transaction, in reply to his
question, what difficulty it was, “is that all ?”
said he, with a smile, “Oh, then I think in case
you can keep your own secret, a plan can soon
be put into operation, that will very shortly re-


44
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
27
store your men.' After being informed that all
of the Portland's crew, but the two Swedes,
were Americans, he remarked, that “Sweden
being in amity with his Majesty, should they
volunteer and enter, no authority could bring
them back to your ship; but as to the others,
I presume there will not be much difficulty in
regaining them; for," continued he, “I am inti-
mately acquainted with Sir E-P-
- Pi
he is one of my most particular friends; to him,
Mr. Fanning, I will give you a note of introduc-
tion; his residence is a conspicuous establish-
ment, a little up the river, on the opposite bank;
it is very well known, and any person will point
it out to you from among the other seats; to-
morrow morning, between eight and nine
o'clock, take this note to him; before he leaves
town, I will endeavor to see him, and explain
your case; let me see now,” said he, “how
well you can manage an embassy with these
credentials."
The next morning, manned the ship’s yawl
with all hands, viz., steward and cabin boy, and
at the appointed hour, proceeded to the landing
abreast of Sir E. P.'s seat, the same having been
pointed out to me by the custom house officer
on board the ship. Upon ringing at the gate, a
porter appeared, who stated Sir E. to be at
12


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
45
home, but then engaged at breakfast, asking my
name, attended with a request that I would call
again; I desired him first to deliver the Mayor's
note to Sir E., and then he would get an an-
swer. In a few moments Sir E. came to the
door, having the note in his hand, and very po-
litely inviting me, if I had not breakfasted, to
step in and take a cup of coffee. Upon my de-
clining, he observed, “Your business, Mr. Fan-
ning, I perceive to be the Portland's men; are
they all Americans ?" I replied, they are, ,
all except two Swedes. “Do you, Mr. Fan-
ning, know that to be the fact,-at least, will
you give me your word of honor you believe
such to be the fact.” I answered, I do; and
then mentioned, that to my certain knowledge,
the second mate had a wife and three infant
children dependant on his earnings for their
subsistence. At this moment, the lady of Sir
E., who, upon perceiving him receive a note
from the porter, and instantly retire, conceived
something more than ordinary was about to
take place, and had therefore followed him, un-
observed by himself, until she placed her hand
with much affectionate earnestness upon his
arm, exclaimed, with much sympathy, “Oh, my
love, do not take that man from his family!”
Hush,” he mildly replied, “ do you, my dear,


46
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
go in and finish your breakfast, and leave to me
my ships affairs, for be assured I understand
the management of them thoroughly.” Then
turning, he continued, “Mr. Fanning, at one
o'clock call on board the frigate; if I am not
there at that hour, the commanding officer will
have my instructions in reference to the Port-
land's men." I thanked him, and returning to
the boat, went on board ship, there to wait with
the greatest patience for the appointed hour.
At one o'clock, went with the yawl along
side the frigate: while going up the gangway,
was met by a midshipman, who inquiring the
name, and being answered, “Fanning, from the
American ship Portland,” requested me to wait
until he should pass the same aft. Shortly
after, a lieutenant made his appearance, who
very politely led me to the quarter-deck, where
were gathered a circle of the officers of the ship,
in the midst of which was the lieutenant then
in command, to whom I had the pleasure of an
introduction. On inquiring whether Sir E. P.
had left any directions in reference to the Port-
land's crew, he stated that with the exception
of the two Swedes, who had voluntarily joined
the frigate, all should be returned. The
Swedes,” he added, " are subjects of a nation in
amity with our government, and it would be


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
47
27
more than the Lords of the Admiralty would
undertake to do, to allow them to be taken
from on board.”
Exceedingly well pleased to come off thus
with the majority of our men, I mentioned that
nothing unreasonable was desired, or meant to
be asked for; and while partaking of the re-
freshment afforded by some crackers and cheese,
the whole, “sailor like,” accompanied by good
punch, an order had been given to embark the
Portland's crew, with their luggage, into the
boat. Matters generally are conducted in such
an orderly and clock-work style, that very little
ado is made on board a man-of-war while such
business is being attended to: they accordingly
were soon reported as being all ready, when
after receiving a friendly invitation to call on
board the frigate again, I left them, and pushed
off from along side.
The joy of the mate and men at being thus
once more free, was warmly expressed in that
plain matter-of-fact style so peculiar to seamen.
The mate said it was perfectly plain that the
tide was setting in their favor, from what had
occurred the evening previous on board the
frigate; for soon after Sir E. arrived on board,
an officer came to Wright, attended by a mid-
shipman, and directed him (Wright) in future to


48
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
mess with the middy, while at the same time a
quarter-master was ordered to have the Port-
land's men placed in his own mess, and to see
that full allowance was dealt out to them;
“and this morning,” said he, “an officer mus-
tered and examined us as to what countrymen
we were,” &c. It was at this time that the two
Swedes requested to enter, and were accordingly
placed on the ship's list.
In calling at the consul's office the following
morning, I found the several captains as yet quite
unsuccessful in obtaining even a shadow of hope
that their cases would receive any attention
from Sir E. Nothing would answer, after they
understood that the Portland had all but two
of her men back, but they must know how,
and in what way, it had been managed. Con-
sidering myself under very strong obligations
studiously to avoid discovering the manner of
procedure, and to give the best face to the
whole, I answered, that after going on board
the frigate, I plead how hard it was for me a
poor mate—the captain being absent—the ship
to be got ready for sea against his return—that
nothing could be done with only a steward and
the boy—and the like urgent reasons, so suc-
cessfully, that the officers gathered around me,
talked, laughed, and guessed I was a true yan-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
49
kee; and after a little such chat, one of them
gave orders to have all my men returned, except
the Swedes. The consul was much surprised
while this was being related, and said, be could
not account for its successful termination.
After listening very patiently, some of the cap-
tains began to bear down hard upon him, saying
he was wanting in his duty to his country, to his
impressed fellow-citizens; charging him almost
with being the cause of their present distress;
that all this should be made known at Wash-
ington, &c. &c. The consul was silent a few
moments, but finally, taking his hat, said,
“Gentlemen, if you think I am neglectful, or
deficient, I have only to say, the same road that
Mr. Fanning has taken, is open to you all; my
duty I shall attend to;" and immediately left
the office. Not wishing to be farther ques-
tioned, I soon followed his example.
While we lay here, the miners employed in
the vicinity, and also at Cornwall, in conse-
quence of their very great distress for the want
of bread, and other necessaries of life, had
risen in large numbers, and were marching
upon Falmouth, with the intention of seizing
upon the flour, amounting in all to many thou-
sand barrels, then in store at the king's store-
house, which, like our own, had been captured
7


50
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
upon storm-
while destined for France, and there placed for
keeping. The citizens were called upon to arm
themselves instantly, and assist in the defence
of the place. Troops under arms, were held in
readiness to defend those points most liable to
an attack, and a slight fortification had also
just been completed at the bridge, which crosses
the river here, as the advance body of these
miners was seen moving forward along the road
leading to it, in numbers about fifteen hundred,
and from appearances,
determined
ing and carrying it. A white flag was however
displayed, and a parley had between their lead-
ers, and the city authorities, at which a price
was agreed upon for the flour per barrel; they,
(the miners) to take any proportion they chose,
on paying for it at the store-house. By this
arrangement, peace was once more restored.
The miners, after receiving some hundred bar-
rels, took up their return march for the mines.
Many of them, it was credibly reported, and
generally believed, had not been, previous to
this affair, above ground for several years; to
judge indeed from the appearance of some of
them, one would not have been supposed to be
greatly in error, to assert they were the choicest
of Pluto's myrmidons.
Captain Robinson having returned from Lon-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
61
don, and there being no farther cause for delay,
we soon had the ship ready for our homeward
voyage; there were a few cabin, together with
a large number of steerage passengers, engaged
to go out with us. These last were mostly in
families; and so soon as their various domestic
and farming utensils, their provisions, and all
their most needed articles for the new country,
were duly stowed, we sailed for New York
in ballast; the passage was unattended by any
thing more than that of usual occurrence, until
our arrival at the eastern edge of the Grand
Bank of Newfoundland, when, at about three
bells, A. M., (half-past one) it blowing a violent
gale, and a heavy sea running at the time, our
ship then laying-to under a reefed fore-course
and mizen stay-sail, was struck by a mountain-
ous sea, which broke on board, and knocked
the ship over on her beam ends in such a man-
ner as to bring the lower yard-arms at the lee-
ward in the water, shifting a part of the shingle
ballast over to leeward, the water at every lee
lurch making its way down the gangways; our
stay-sail also was split and torn to pieces by
the force of this breaker. As soon as the stroke
had passed, all on deck at the time were striving
to secure the safest place, at the weather side of
the ship. I had gained a station on her side, by


52
FANNING’S VOYAGES.
the main channel, Wright, the old seaman, by
my side; when, observing by the force of the
gale on the upper or weather yard-arm of the
fore-course, that the ship's head was paying off
from the wind and sea, the thought occurred to
me that if we could now but humor her with
the fore-sail, she might go around on the other
tack, and yet save us. Bidding Wright to fol-
low, we crossed by the fair leader from the main
rigging down to the main-mast, by which the
fore-braces lead: here I directed him to cast off
the weather-brace, and pass it to his shipmates
on the other side, to haul in upon; at the same
time, by gradually loosing the lee one, (the
lee yard-arm and lurch of the fore-course drag-
ging in the water) kept the ship going off
around before the wind, and as she went off
partially righting, the helm then being put hard
a-weather, and getting headway on her, she
fortunately went round, and came to on the
other, the larboard tack, with about two streaks
of her deck under water, on the now weather
side, with such a rank heel to windward, against
the gale, as enabled those below to come on
deck.
At this moment, Captain R., started from his
rest by the noise and confusion, appeared seek-
ing anxiously to know whether all was safe.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
33
He was answered, the only loss was the mizen
stay-sail; when, after looking around, he ordered
the fore-sail to be trimmed, to bouse taught the
fore-braces, brace all the yards about, and all
hands, except two seamen, were sent below, to
ascertain the quantity of water in the ship's
hold, and to endeavor as quickly as possible, to
turn over and secure the ballast. This last ope-
ration we completed, by lashing amidships,
bights of cable, and spars, fore and aft, to the
stanchions, so as to prevent the ballast from
shifting again, and then trimming it over to the
starboard, until the ship was brought“ upon her
legs,” when, to our great joy, the pumps soon
freed her.
The awfulness of the night, in addition to the
heaving of the ship, and the repeated gusts of
wind which continually swept over our deck,
together with the shrieking and crying of the
women and children, made these few hours (so
nearly fatal) to be the most wretched of my
life. Nothing could exceed the terror of the
steerage passengers during this gale: many of
the principal, and most aged, were devoutly
engaged at prayers, not expecting the ship
could hold out through the storm. Some diffi-
culty was experienced in persuading them
(while we were proceeding to regulate the bal-


34
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
last) that the danger was nearly over : their
young men, however, readily consented to assist
us while busy below, and worked most faith-
fully, as men usually do, when their lives, and
all they possess, are at stake.
Shortly after, the storm began to abate, and
twenty-four hours time, we were favored by a
moderate and leading breeze. Three days
after, we had soundings on the Grand Bank,
where we caught a few fine cod: these excel-
lent fish came very acceptable to our passen-
gers, as well as to the ship’s company. A few
days more of making and taking in sail, con-
cluded the voyage, and saw us safely returned
to New York.


CHAPTER I V.
VOYAGES TO THE WEST INDIES
Appointed to the command of a schooner.—Successful speculation.
-Curracoa.—Directions for entering this harbor.-Its market.
Evade the blockading squadron.-Subsequent capture and re-
lease.-Reluctance of the prize officer to quit the schooner.—Safe
return to New York.— The ship Portland captured and con-
demned.
IMMEDIATELY after the return of the Portland,
as related in the chapter preceding, through the
kind attention of those friends for whom I had
previously made several voyages to the West
Indies, I was, for the first time, placed in com-
mand as master, viz., on board the new schooner
Dolly, belonging to the house of Snell, Stagg,
&c., of New York.
In the Curracoa trade, for which this vessel
was intended, I was perfectly at home; expe-
rience acquired during former voyages, had
given me many useful lessons, that would now
be brought to bear.
While exercising a master's usual privilege,
of having several tons freight free allowed him,
I had stowed the same with some eighteen


56
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
dozen beaver hats, in cases, together with one
hundred and sixty kegs of butter. It was a
most fortunate venture, for a beginning. The
latter article especially, the Curracoa market
was greatly in want of; in fact, there was none
to be had until the Dolly's arrival, at which
time it readily brought fifty cents per pound,
weighing the firkin as discharged from the ves-
sel, no deduction or allowance for tare being
required. The huckster women, even at this
price, were continually pushing and wrangling
with each other, for the firkins, as they were
passed up from the hold, and keeping up an in-
cessant clatter all the time, each most stoutly
insisting upon being first served. This butter
cost but twelve and a half cents at home; and
the hats, at invoice price, two dollars and a half
each, produced five, without even so much as
being unpacked. They were sold to some
Spanish traders, merchants from the Spanish
main.
The schooner, with a cargo consisting princi-
pally of bread stuffs, was in a few days, in com-
pany with a fleet of some thirty or more sail of
all riggs, got under way for Sandy Hook, there
to discharge our pilot. Among this little fleet
was the ship Portland, Captain Robinson, my late
commander, with whom, by means of the speak-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
57
ing trumpet, a seaman's hearty wish for each
other's future health and prosperity was ex-
changed. At sunsetting of the same day, took
our departure from the highlands of Neversink,
and after passing through the continued changes
of winds and weather, which occur on a West
India passage, we arrived at the port in the
island of Curracoa, on the twenty-fourth day
out.
This is a most excellent hårbor, and I believe
it to be one of the snuggest and safest among
the whole of the West India Islands. It opens
to the south; the entrance is narrow, and
somewhat difficult to square rigged vessels.
The attendance, however, at the fort, on the
weather chop at the harbor's mouth, is so good,
and prompt in rendering assistance, by means
of men, boats, and hawsers, that it seldom hap-
pens vessels get on shore. Such as are bound
here, may therefore stand boldly in, under full
sail, gaining all the headway possible, until they
come to luff in, so that if possible, they may
shoot quite into the harbor, before the sails take
aback, at the same time letting all run, and
clewing up; if the harbor has been gained, the
sails will then become becalmed under the lee
of the castle and buildings of the town: yet
vessels making this island towards nightfall,


59
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
whose masters may be unacquainted with the
manner of entering, had better lay to, because
of the low island stretching towards the east
end of the main island, at about one league dis-
tance; and the strong current always setting to
the westward, along this coast, especially at
this island, makes it very difficult to fetch up to
the port, should they unfortunately fall past it:
at the same time by laying to, the early part of
the following day can be had to run in, directly
from the mouth of the bay.
The market here is in general very good, and
well supplied with meats, such as beef, pork, mut-
ton, &c.; also a variety of most excellent fish, with
the best of that delicious dish, the green turtle.
This celebrated dish I also found at Bermuda,
though not equally well cooked, and not of so
rich flavor there, as they give it here. The
manner of cooking the callipatch and callipee
here, is also superior to any I have ever met
with; yet the market of Bermuda is certainly
well supplied with fish, generally, and an epi-
cure would there find his nicest wish accommo-
dated. - Their “grouper," especially, is a most
excellent dish, and the inhabitants insist upon its
being the most so of any in the world. Here,
too, are to be had plenty of vegetables, fruits,
mellons, &c. &c.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
59
This place is greatly supported by its com-
merce with the Spanish main; and if good po-
licy is used, this will and must continue to be
the case, both from the excellency of its har-
bor, so perfectly safe and commodious, and the
great and inviting advantages it presents for the
repairing of vessels, &c.
On one of the Dolly's voyages to, and while
at this port, it was blockaded by the British,
who at that time were capturing all American
vessels, and sending them to New Providence,
Bermuda, Halifax, &c., for adjudication and
condemnation. The Dolly left the port in the
night, and keeping the island shore close on
board, until its west end was doubled, fortu-
nately evaded the blockading squadron, and got
safely through the Moona passage. Every thing
succeeded well, until abreast of Cape May,
where we were boarded by a Philadelphia pilot,
who informed us, that the British frigate B-
Captain F., was off Sandy Hook making prizes,
and sending to Halifax all vessels from the
blockaded ports; yet gave it as his opinion, that
the late heavy gale from the north-westward,
must have blown her off to the eastward, so
that by working along the Jersey shore, with
the then fine breeze, our chance was good, to
arrive within Sandy Hook before the frigate


60
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
could regain her station. We accordingly
worked to the northward, until abreast of Bar-
negat, keeping the shore all the while close
aboard; but while endeavoring to weather the
shoal (Barnegat), a sail was descried in the
north-eastward, and soon discovered to be a
man-of-war. Every exertion was now made,
by tacking in shore, &c., to get clear of her; but
her superiority in sailing was so great, that she
soon passed our weather beam, tacked, and bore
down upon us, and when nearly within
hail, fired a swivel shot just ahead of us. We
now hove to, and were soon accosted with
the usual interrogations, on such occasions, as
" whence come you?" " from what port?" and
the like; he receiving in return the most satis-
factory replies.
The schooner was shortly after boarded by an
officer from the frigate, accompanied by seamen.
and marines, the officer remarking, as he came
on board, “a good prize sir! we shall alter your
course for you, and take you to Halifax;" add-
ing, “Captain F. desires you to take all your
papers and the log book, and repair with them
on board the frigate." In conformity with this
requirement, I stepped into their boat, and soon
was pulled along side the frigate, where, upon
gaining the deck, was met by an officer, habited


FANNING'S VOYAGES,
61
in a short roundabout jacket and white trow-
sers, whom at the time I supposed was a mid-
shipman, sent to show the way to the captain.
“Good morning,” said he, (by his manner appa-
rently anxious not to add the least unkindness
to my loss of property) "come, walk below;"
and led the way down the gangway, then aft
into the cabin, the door of which swung to after
our passing in, by a weight. It was now very
certain that this was none other than Captain
F. himself. Having taken a seat at the table,
he requested me to follow his example, and im-
mediately proceeded to examine the schooner's
log book. This, like the log books of most, if
not all merchantmen, had the names of the
vessel and master, written in a large hand, and
very distinctly, on the covered leaf; for turning
it back, he saw it, and inquired whether I was
any relation of General Edmund Fanning, now
residing in Portman-square, London. I replied,
that I was a nephew of his. He instantly closed
the book, and without touching or looking at
one of the schooner's papers, said he had no
doubt everything was correct; expressing a wish,
as a steward appeared in answer to his call,
bringing in some wine, to drink to the health of
the general, whom he gave me to understand
was his particular friend at court, was his god-


6%
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
father, and had given him much assistance in
his education and advancement in life; "I am,
therefore,” continued he, '“ very happy to have
fallen in with you, though grieved to be the
cause, while performing my duty, of one mo-
ment's delay to your vessel ;” and concluded,
with observing, that as he presumed I was
anxious to see my family and friends, we would
therefore walk on deck.
After some conversation between Captain F.
and the lieutenant, (the same that had brought
me off to the ship) the latter proceeded to the
boat along side, where, also, after receiving a
hearty shake of the hand from the captain, with
a hope that I should find all friends well upon
my arrival at New York, I followed. As the
frigate's boat reached the schooner, the lieu-
tenant made known to the officer then in charge,
that himself and men must now return to the
ship. The latter, however, did not appear dis-
posed to quit so good a prize in very great haste,
and began, perhaps in expectation of removing
the erroneous impressions that he had no doubt
Captain F. lay under, in thus easily returning
the schooner, by answering that she was from a
blockaded port, and had, moreover, a very valu-
able cargo of coffee and hides on board. The
matter, 'nevertheless, was speedily settled by


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
63
the former lieutenant's decisive reply, that it
was the captain's orders. With no small degree
of disappointment, strongly depicted in their
countenances, both officers and men now pre-
pared to leave the Dolly. Not willing that all
the courtesy should be upon one side, and as
some small return for Captain F.'s great atten-
tion while on board his ship, I had a bag filled
with oranges and limes, in fine preservation, put
into the lieutenants charge for him, each of the
officers receiving a small lot for himself and
mess, previous to leaving the schooner. Again
at liberty, we made sail for New York, and
while passing the ship, Captain F. stepped aft
and acknowledged the above compliment.*
The schooner's safe arrival, caused conside-
rable surprise on 'change, and among our ac-
quaintances, as very few vessels had yet been
able to escape the frigate, and many specula-
tions and shrewd guesses were also advanced,
to account for the same. It was a little singu-
lar, that the evening after the examination and
giving up of the Dolly, the frigate captured the
* He was (as I have subsequently been informed) killed in a
desperate engagement with a French frigate, in the West Indies,
while in the act of lashing his opponent frigate's bowsprit to the
capstan of his own ship, and just at the moment of victory.


64
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
Portland (Captain R. still on board). She was
from one of the blockaded ports, with a cargo
of coffee, &c., and sent (by Captain F. of the
frigate) to Halifax, were both vessel and cargo
were condemned.


CHAPTER V.
TIIE AUTHOR'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD AS COMMANDER,
IN 1797, 1798, AND 1799.
Preparation for the projected voyage.-The vessel and crew.-
Departure of the Betsey from New York.
In the early part of the month of May, 1797,
it was the good fortune of the author to meet
at New York with Captain John Whetten, a
gentlemen distinguished as an able navigator,
and at the time in command of the ship
Ontario, in the China trade. With him origi-
nated, and with him also was the project
first discussed, of fitting out a suitable vessel
which should proceed to the South Seas, there
to procure a cargo of fur seal skins, and with
this cargo thence to cross the Pacific for the
Canton market, where the article was well
ascertained to be greatly in demand, and held
at prices that furnished good grounds upon
which to hope a very handsome proſit would be
realized to those who were disposed to engage
in the business. Another great inducement
held out in favor of the attempt, was the pro-
9


66
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
bability that Captain Whetten himself, in the
Ontario, would be at Canton at about the period
of the arrival there (which would be in our fall
part of the year, say the month of September, ,
October, or November) of any vessel shortly
fitted out. The intimate knowledge that Cap-
tain Whetten possessed of the manner of doing
business with those people, and the great assist-
ance he could afford, being conversant in all
their intricate trade, and in the purchasing of
silks and other articles for the New York mar-
ket, as our homeward cargo, were certainly
such arguments as were well calculated to
increase the confidence of success in the con-
templated voyage. This was an opportunity
not to be left unimproved; and to one naturally
possessed' of an ambitious and aspiring mind,
with a strong attachment to a seaman's pro-
fession, increased as it had been, since my first
visit to the South Seas, by a perusal of the
voyages of such circumnavigators as Drake,
Byron, Anson, Bouganville, Cook, and others,
the hope of being able to add some new disco-
veries to the knowledge already in the possession
of man relating to those seas, and the no less
flattering hope of realizing a fortune, if the
enterprise were well conducted, and successful
in its termination, were sufficient to bind me to


FANNING'S VOYAGES,
67
exert myself in bringing about this desired
voyage.
Every view was encouraging; but funds were
necessary, and to raise these without delay, I
applied to that upright and liberal merchant,
Mr. Elias Nexsen, with whom also to consult
and advise upon the best means of securing the
early fitting out and sailing of the enterprise.
To the information and encouragement given
by Captain Whetten, was added my own strong
confidence in its practicability, and the flattering
results that such an adventure held forth. The
plan met with his entire approval, and after
some, conversation with Captain Whetten, on
'change that day, in the afternoon of the same
he made the offer of his brig, the Betsey, then
in port. She was New York built, a little short
of one hundred tons, and an excellent vessel of
her class. “If she will answer," said he, “I
will put her into the business, and at whatever
price, upon a minute inspection, her value shall
be ascertained to be, I will take the one half in
the adventure of the vessel, and her outfits.
The Betsey had been built under the superin-
tendence of Captain Motley, for a Charleston
packet, who was also at the time a prominent
owner in her. Her good qualities as a first rate
sea boat, &c., from having been several voyages


68
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
in her, I well knew : her size was the only
objection; a little larger, and she would have
been the very vessel ; however, this was but an
experiment, it was on a new trade, and should
it eventually prove unfortunate, then she was
abundantly large. I was unable to 'take more
than one eighth myself, but the remaining three
were by the evening of the same day taken by
other friends, and thus the whole amount re-
quired to insure the sailing of the vessel was
made up. An inventory was taken, agreeable
to the understanding at the commencement, by
which the value of the vessel was ascertained,
and made satisfactory to all concerned.
The brig was next hove out, and thoroughly
examined, previous to receiving any thing on
board. Her rigging was completely refitted,
and put in the best possible order. The stores,
provisions of every kind, with a small invoice,
consisting of beads of different sorts, small look-
ing-glasses, buttons, needles, cutlery ware, and
the like, suitable for trading with the native In-
dians, of places that we might visit, were put
up in the best manner for preservation, and part
of the crew shipped.
Among these was one, to all appearance, as
innocent as he was simple. A tall, raw-boned,
stout, good natured looking fellow, who, as he


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
69
said, had just come down the North River; one
from among the Green Mountain boys. In
name, so was he in character and person, a true,
a real Jonathan, to all intents. Folks had told
him, he said, that my vessel was going tother
side of the world; he had never seen the salt
water before, and he would now like to have a
chance in her, as he wanted, most nationally,
to see how t'other side looked. He guessed he
knew he could please, if hard work could do it,
for he had come to seek his fortune; and
throughout the voyage, he was found to be will-
ing and obedient. In fact, his simplicity and
readiness to do whatever would be required of
him, made it necessary that care should be
taken that no imposition should be put upon
him, either by the officers or men.
In less than a month from the time that the
information, on which the present voyage was
fitted out, had expired, did the Betsey sail from
New York, to stop at New Haven (the native
place of Mr. Caleb Brintnall, the first officer, a
great disciplinarian), and afterwards at Stoning-
ton, to obtain and complete her compliment of
men, in all twenty-seven; for it had been con-
cluded to be the most judicious policy, to select
the greatest proportion of them from the New
England states.


CHAPTER VI.
PASSAGE TO, AND TRANSACTIONS AT, THE CAPE DE VERD
ISLANDS.
Crew mustered, and liberty given to return, to all so inclined. The
island of St. Michael's.-Brought to by the English frigate, the
Romulus.-After examining the brig's papers, she is released.
Sea water much colored.—Island of Bonavista in sight.-Pilot
received on board.—The Betsey altered into a ship.
HAVING obtained the number of hands required
for the Betsey, on the thirteenth day of Jane,
1797, she was got under way, and proceeded to
sea, from Stonington, Conn. When off Watch-
hill point, (situated about nine leagues to the
northward of Montague light, on the east end
of Long Island) she was brought to, in order to
discharge the pilot, and the occasion was em-
braced, as the best suited to ascertain the minds
and inclinations of the seamen. All hands were
therefore mustered on deck, aft, and liberty was
given to all such as were disinclined to proceed
on the voyage, to all those who were unwilling
to encounter the dangers, privations, and suffer-
ings, usually attendant on similar expeditions,
now to return with the pilot. Notwithstanding


FANNING'S VOYAGES,
71
this, no one seemed so inclined, but all, to a
man, answered, their desire was to proceed on
the voyage, confirming the same by three hearty
cheers. And here it may be remarked, that a
more orderly and cheerful crew never sailed
round the world in any vessel. The pilot ac-
cordingly returned by himself.
At six P. M., we took our departure from
Block Island, with a fine breeze from the south-
west. The next day, at meridian, our latitude
was 409 48' north, with land, supposed to be
Martha's Vineyard, then in sight off our lee
beam. The wind now veered to the S. S. W.,
accompanied with hazy, but not unpleasant,
weather. Some lines were fitted up by the offi-
cers, and with these they succeeded in catching
several hundred fine mackerel : saw at the same
time a number of sperm whales, and vast shoals
of what are known among whalers as blackfish,
and also many herring-hogs.
On the 16th, at noon, our latitude was 399
281 north, longitude 650 421 west. Weather
very fair, with a fresh gale from the S. W.
This day saw numbers of the fish called alber-
cores, around the brig.
25th. Latitude at noon, 399 22/ north, longi-
tude 469 45/ west. S. W. gale still blowing,
weather continuing very pleasant. There passed


72
FANNING’S VOYAGES.
close along side, this day, two turtle, appa-
rently of the hawk-bill kind.
28th. The weather yet pleasant, the breeze
now from the S. S. W. and freshening, the haze
somewhat thicker. Latitude, at noon, 380 441
north, longitude 380 45/ west. Variation, 159
59' westerly. At 10 A. M. passed a ship stand-
ing to the westward. At 4 P. M. fell in with a
mast, sent the boat to tow it along side, hoisted
it on deck to be made to answer any purpose
that future emergency might require. While
making the tow-line fast to it, many of the fish
called by seamen leather-jackets, were swim-
ming along by it; some of these were caught
and cooked; they were very dry meated, and
not good for food.
July 3d. Moderate breeze from the W. S. W.
with pleasant weather. At 10 A. M. had sight
of the island of St. Michael's, bearing N. E. by
compass about fourteen leagues distance. Our
latitude, at noon, was 360 561 north. St. Mi-
chael's now bore N. E. half N. about fifteen
leagues distance. St. Mary's also in sight from
the mast-head, bearing E. by S. apparently
twenty leagues off: variation 210 201. Caught,
with the grains, or barbed four-pronged iron
spear, a fish called the Spanish mackerel : had
too the good fortune to catch, with the boat,


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
73
two turtle, one of the hawk-bill, the other a fine
green chicken turtle; these last came very op-
portunely, and were welcome prizes.
5th. This day, had pleasant weather, with a
light W. N. W. breeze, and a very smooth sea.
At 6 P. M. were fired upon, and brought to,
by the English frigate Romulus, from which
ship an officer boarded the Betsey, and com-
menced examining her papers and men: having
gotten through with this, he took leave, saying,
as soon as we pleased, we might sail, and wished
us a fortunate voyage. Latitude, at noon, 350
27' north, longitude 25° 1' west.
12th. These twenty-four hours had the wind
from N. E. attended with dark hazy weather.
At 8 A. M. observed the sea water to be much
colored, having all the appearance of water on
soundings : on examining, by the help of a
microscopic glass, into the cause, it was found
to proceed from its being filled with millions of
the Neptunian animalcula, a species of shrimp.
Latitude, at noon, 21° 48' north, longitude 210
51' west, variation 16° 35' westerly.
July 15th. Blowing a moderate gale from the
N. E. with hazy weather. At 4 P. M. the look-
out at the mast-head gave the welcome cry of
" Land ho !" This was the isle of Sal, one of
the Cape De Verd Islands, bearing W. S. W.
10


74
FANNING’S VOYAGES.
distant about six leagues. The weather con-
tinuing thick and hazy, and finding it impossible
to extend the view beyond a very limited dis-
tance, at 8 P. M. brought the brig to, and
thought it most prudent to pass the night on
short tacks, under easy sail. Passing a night in
such a situation, keeps the mind in a state of
painful uneasiness; many are the anxious wishes
for day-break, which, when at last it does come,
but little betters the prospect, unless the thick-
ness of weather clears away; there is the con-
tinued order of "bout ship,” and a dread that
such will be followed by the cry of "land close
aboard,” or the more appaling fact of her striking
against some rock which may not be laid down
on the chart, or known to any on board; it is,
in truth, a state of such anxiety as those only
can have a correct idea of, who have been simi-
larly situated. At 4 A. M. the thick haze
having cleared off, bore away, and made sail.
At 6 A. M. the island of Bonavista was in sight,
bearing* S. W. half S. five or six leagues dis-
tance; the south point of the isle of Sal at the
same time bearing N. W. four leagues distance.
At 11 A. M. received a pilot on board, and at
* All bearings, unless they are particularly otherwise mentioned,
are taken by compass.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
75
meridian were brought to an anchor in the
harbor at Bonavista, called English road.
Dinner being got through with, went on shore,
and paid my respects to the governor and com-
mandant, (both offices being at this time vested
in the same individual) by whom I was received
very politely, and throughout the Betsey's stay,
was treated with the most friendly attention.
Arrangements were soon completed with him
for the necessary supply of salt, as also some
water, and refreshments.
While on the passage to the Cape De Verds,
by the expressed wish and counsel of the offi-
cers, it was thought advisable to alter the rig of
the Betsey, and change her into a ship. This,
it was supposed, and afterwards ascertained to
be the fact, would be greatly to our advantage,
for while laying off and on at the seal islands,
to procure our cargo of fur seal skins, the cabin
boy alone could tend and work a mizen-topsail,
who certainly would be altogether unable to do
any thing with the heavy boom of a brig's fore-
and-aft mainsail. At this place the alteration
was carried into effect: the mizen-mast, top,
spars, rigging, sails, &c., were already in readi-
ness, and the armorer, at his forge erected on
shore, forged and made the chains, and all the


76
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
other requisite iron work, so that the mast
was stepped, sails bent, and the Betsey rigged
into a ship all ready for sea, in five days' time.
This was accomplished without one dollar
extra expense to the owners.
>
>


CHAPTER VI I.
PASSAGE TO THE COAST OF PATAGONIA AND THE FALKLAND ISLANDS,
WITH THE AUTHOR'S REMARKS RELATIVE THERETO.
Departure from the Cape De Verd Islands.-Numbers of Spanish
mackerel taken.—AMicting results from eating of the mackerel
and dolphin.—Difference in the manner of preparing them. The
boy Henry falls overboard.—Is rescued. His collectedness.-
Coast of Patagonia.—Bay of Sinfonda.- Arrival at the Falkland
Islands.-First party on shore.-Description of a South Sea bird
rookery, and birds.- Jonathan's great surprise on beholding
these.—The landing of the penguins.— Their hindrance and de-
struction by the sea-lions.—Directions for preserving penguin's
eggs for a length of time.-Falkland Islands, their vegetables,
water, cattle, amphibious animals, fish, birds, and berries.-Disap-
pointment in the dried kelp.-Jonathan's regard for good living.
The Cape De Verd Islands have become so fa-
miliar to every reader, by the frequent reports
given relative to them, that any farther descrip-
tion in this work is thereby rendered needless.
We proceed, therefore, with the account of the
voyage, by stating, that on July 23d, 1797, the
Betsey having received on board a sufficiency
of salt, together with a full supply of goats, pigs,
fowls, fruit, &c., was got under way for sea; at
noon, the S. E. end of Bonavista bore E. N. E.
three leagues distance. The ship's course being


78
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
S. E. by S. and steering for the South Seas,
with a brisk trade wind from the N. E.
On the 30th, in latitude 100 5/ north, longi-
tude 190 2! west, the wind became variable,
accompanied with very heavy rains, which con-
tinued falling, uninterruptedly, for the space of
forty-eight hours, and until the wind settled be-
tween the S. S. W. and W. S. W. From this
quarter it blew a gale, with but little cessation,
until the 5th of August, when it veered around
to the west, afterwards to the north, and finally
to the E. N. E. where it remained for the
greatest part of the 6th, when it fell calm. At
9 A. M. we had again a light breeze. This day
we came up with, and spoke the ship John and
Elizabeth, John Galway master, from Philadel-
phia, bound for Canton, out seventy days. At
noon, our latitude was 50 471 north, longitude
14° 59/ west, variation 150 111 westerly: the
wind now appearing to be settled into a mode-
rate breeze from the S. S. W.; weather very
fair, with flying clouds until the 10th. During
this period, we caught, with hook and grains,
as many of the Spanish mackerel, or bonettos,
as were wished for; shoals of these fish, as well
as the dolphin, being all around us; in fact, the
men commenced the sport (as they called it) of
taking them with the hook, and then plunging


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
79
them back again into the sea. This piece of
fun, however, was soon stopped. We caught
also, with the harpoon, two herring-hogs, from
among the great numbers that were around the
ship, and tried out the oil they afforded, for the
use of the lamps. On eating of these dolphin
and mackerel, almost all on board were affected
with a severe pain in the head, which shortly
after was much inflamed; the eyes became red,
and these distressing symptoms were attended
with violent vomiting. Those who were thus
affected, were evidently poisoned; the head and
some of the limbs began also to swell, which
swelling increased, until they had attained a
most disagreeable form, having at the same
time, a redness cast over the head and limbs
thus swollen. A dose, of from two to three
table-spoonsfull, of the sweet or olive oil, to
each person thus affected, was found to give re-
lief, but was not a preventive; for eating again,
brought back the complaint. Whenever the fish,
on being taken out of the water, was imme-
diately cooked, and then eaten, no evil or un-
pleasant sensation was experienced; but, on
the contrary, when first cured and dried, then
cooked and eaten, the above poisonous effects
appeared the more severe, and sooner in their
operation, from such fish as had been dried by


80
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
moonlight, and kept from the sun, than such as
were dried wholly by the sun. This different
effect, from the manner of preparing the fish,
was plainly evident, on repeated trials of parts
of the same fish on the same men.
August 17th. The wind verred and got set-
tled from the S. E. by E. with fair weather and
a pleasant gale. At 10 P. M. we crossed the
Equator, in longitude 190 50' west, our varia-
tion at this time being 11° 30' westerly. The
Spanish mackerel and dolphin now began to be
scarce, and by the time we had arrived in lati-
tude 50 00' south, they had entirely quit ac-
companying the ship; but previous to, and up
to this day, the ship's company had had a daily
and full supply of them.
Some men-of-war birds, boobies, and small
white gulls, appeared around us, also numbers
of those small but excellent pan-fish, the flying-
fish. These last mentioned were, while flying
to avoid their enemies, or while sporting, nightly
striking against the ship's sails, and falling
thence on deck, in such considerable numbers,
as that for several days the steward seldom
omitted having a dish of them on the table for
breakfast.
29th. We had a moderate breeze from the
S. E. by E. with a smooth sea and pleasant


FANN INGI'S VOYAGES.
81
weather. At 4 P. M. this day, the cabin boy,
Henry, aged fourteen, while drawing a bucket
of water at the fore-chains, fell overboard : the
alarm was instantly given, and being on the
quarter-deck at the time, and knowing that he
was a good swimmer, I called out to him not to
be frightened, but to rest and float on his back
without fear, as a boat should soon be sent after
him. He instantly turned as directed, and
floated in this manner, until taken up some hun-
dred yards astern. The ship at the time was
going free from the wind, at the rate of four
knots, and although the helm was immediately
put a lee, and the main yard hove aback, yet it
was some time before her way was deadened
sufficiently to have the stern boat lowered
away. By this time the little fellow was at so
great a distance as not to be seen from the deck,
and no one could have shown where he was,
had it not been for the precaution taken of
sending an officer, the moment the alarm was
given, to the main top-gallant yard, to keep him
in sight, and direct the boat to him; by which
means he was soon discovered, laying perfectly
composed. On being taken up into the boat,
the officer asked him whether he was not tired
or frightened, by waiting so long. He replied,
no, sir! for as I passed by the stern, the cap-


82
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
tain told me to keep still; only to try to float,
and not to be frightened, and that he would
send a boat for me; so that I was not scared.”
This was uttered with the most innocent com-
posure and cheerfulness. Our latitude at noon
was 16° 12' south, longitude 31° 18' west, va-
riation 000 55' westerly.
September 13th. Lost the trades: the wind
and weather now became variable. At 2 P. M.
the land was to be seen from the mast-head. It
appeared low and hilly; our depth of water at
the time was twenty fathoms. Toward sun-
setting, a large smoke was seen rising over the
land; this was supposed to be a signal, by which
the ship's appearance on their coast was made
known. Latitude at noon, 300 43' south, lon-
gitude 47° 52'. west, variation 11° 15' easterly.
17th. Experienced a hard gale from the
south-west, attended with thunder and sharp
lightning, and very heavy rain, the ship laying
to under a reefed. mizen and mizen stay-sail.
After being in this situation for sixteen hours,
without receiving any damage, made sail again
on her, the gale having begun to abate, and
the wind veered round to N. by W. Our lati-
tude at noon was 370 21: south, longitude 520
50 west.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
83
The 22d, at noon, we were in fifty fathoms of
water; saw some kelp, a few seals, and large
numbers of birds, such as albatrosses, sheerwa-
ters, sea or Port Egmont hens, gulls, and pen-
guins. Latitude at this time, 390 38' south,
variation 17° 57' easterly.
28th. At noon, we had ground in twenty-
nine fathoms; our latitude was 41° 20' south,
variation 21° 19' easterly, with the wind light
from the north-west, and pleasant weather; saw
many seals, and large flocks of snipe.
October 2d. At 4 P. M. made the land, being
part of the coast of Patagonia, bearing W. N.
W. about seven leagues distant; a moderate
breeze blowing at the time from the northward,
with clear weather; our depth of water was at
this moment, nineteen fathoms. Stood in for
the land, and at 9 A. M. passed a shoal of
breakers, one league or so distant from the
shore; balf an hour after, passed another shoal
at a like distance from the shore, on which were
easily to be seen a number of hair seals.
While running along the coast, at the distance
of between three to five miles from the shore,
we had soundings at the various depths of six,
seven, and eight fathoms, the land appearing to
be high, sandy or clay cliffs, with table land
back.' We entered the bay of Sinfonda by the


84
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
capes at its entrance, which are three or four
miles apart, and sailed round and surveyed it
without finding any harbor, or seeing any seals
whatever, and were unable in any part, at a
cable's length or two from the shore, to obtain
bottom with forty-five fathoms of line. The
land all around this extensive and singular bay
appeared to be dry and barren, and not the least
sign of fresh water was discovered. Latitude
this day, at noon, 420 25' south.
We ran along this Patagonian coast as far as
Cape Mattas, in latitude 45° 5' south, but not
finding the fur seals, for which we were in
search, in any considerable numbers, left it, and
steered for the Falkland Islands, where we ar-
rived on the nineteenth, and came to an anchor
in the harbor of Shallop Cove, at the cluster
called the New Islands. On the passage from
Cape Mattas, great numbers of whales and
seals were seen.
So soon as the ship was safely moored, and
dinner over, a boat was manned for the shore,
among whose crew was Jonathan, (of whom a
slight description is given page 68) who had
obtained the promise, and was very solicitous
to be with the first to land from the ship's com-
pany in this novel country. After sending on
board the ship some geese and ducks which we


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
85
had shot soon after landing, we started, taking
along a large salt basket in which to bring back
some eggs for supper; for the bird rookery, which
lies up a valley, on the opposite or sea-board side
of the island, is at a distance of something like
three quarters of a 'mile across to it. This
rookery, (as it is called) contains, or extends
over, à patch of ground of from four to six
acres, on a side hill, surrounded with high bogs
of the coarse grass called tussucks. Over this
area, the birds, such as the albatrosses, penguins,
and shags, have their nests, and to all appearance
cover the entire surface in one grand assemblage.
In fact, so closely side by side are they mixed
together, that there is considerable difficulty in
walking among them, great caution being ne-
cessarily exercised lest one should tread upon
them, for they are so void of fear as to suffer
themselves to be taken with the hand; yet in
order to proceed, one is constantly obliged to
push and kick them out of the way. On their
part nothing backward, they return this rough
manner of proceeding, with a continued pecking
and biting at the hands and feet, frequently with
such a painful nip as to start the blood. A con-
tinued cackling is kept up by this feathered
fraternity to such a degree of clamorousness,
that persons walking among them, within a yard
)


86
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
of each other, cannot understand what their
companions are speaking about, or even hear
them, unless the speaker calls out in a loud
voice what he has to say.
The albatross is the largest bird in this rook-
ery. Their nests are built of mud, mixed with
coarse grass, much in the form of a sugar loaf,
but concave at the top, which forms the nest,
about fourteen inches in diameter at the base,
and from sixteen to twenty-four inches in height.
On the top of this mound, its nest, sits this noble
bird, in seeming pride and grandeur. They
generally lay from two to four eggs, and in
defense of these, or their young, will suffer
themselves to be destroyed rather than abandon
them. The seamen, in order to obtain their
eggs, manage by the assistance of their seal
clubs, to pry the bird off of its nest with one
hand, while with the other they gather the eggs;
so soon as this is accomplished the bird resumes
its former position, and soon lays more. Be-
tween each of these monuments for the nest of
the albatross, formed of parcels or bunches of
pebbles, mud, dry sticks, grass, and feathers,
which they have been able to get together, are
the nests, (if they can be so called) of the pen-
guin and the shag. These will also most stoutly


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
87
----
defend their own, and a slap from the side-arms
of the former, against the shins, is very painful.
The albatross begins to lay its eggs about the
tenth of October ; these are somewhat larger
than those of a goose, having a shell of a dull
white, the yelk being yellow, and if well cooked,
makes a good dish for the table. The shag's
eggs are speckled, with a blood-red yelk, and
are not good for eating, having a strong fishy
taste. The eggs most preferred of all that the
South Sea country produces, are those of the
Mackaronie penguin. This noble bird com-
mences its laying during the first part of No-
vember: I have never known their eggs to be
obtained at this rookery earlier than the second
day of this month. These are a size larger
than those of our domestic ducks, with a white.
shell, and much stronger than theirs; the sub-
stance being a little of the light blue cast, with
a yellow yelk slightly tinged with crimson.
They were always preferred by the officers; so
thạt while the ship lay here some were
frequently served up at the cabin table with
those of the common hen, cooked in different
ways, and invariably selected on account of
their superior flavor, and not being so dry as the
hen's. There are four different kinds of this
amphibious bird, viz. the King penguin, which is
much so,


88
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
the largest, the Jackass penguin, the John pen-
guin, and the Mackaronie : it is this last only,
that inhabits the rookeries with the albatrosses ;
the other three keeping by themselves.
The Mackaronie is about sixteen inches high,
and has on each side of its head a tuft of thin
feathers, richly variegated in color, which gives
the bird a very consequential and proud appear-
ance. In its walk, or rather march, it is as erect
as a soldier. One could sit for hours, and ob-
serve their manner of approaching the shore,
after a spell of feeding in the sea; to effect this
purpose, they make choice of a spot where the
sea breaks directly against the side of the rocks,
and while yet some seventy yards from the land-
ing place, swimming moderately along in solid
columns of hundreds together, toward it, com-
mence diving and coming up again to the sur-
face at short distances; this is continued until
about within thirty feet of their landing, when
they dive again, and come up in the surf ten or
twelve feet from the rock, with such velocity as
to land upon it perfectly erect, and clear of the
surf; immediately forming in Indian file, and
divided into distinct bodies, each division having
its own leader, whom they follow, proceeding in
their march up the valley or chasm, to the rook-
ery, apparently with as much conceit of their


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
89
superiority in point of discipline as ever a com-
pany of soldiers manifested on a public parade.
The gratification derived from beholding a scene
like this, is in a great measure counterbalanced,
in the destruction committed among them by
the sea-lions, which place themselves a few rods
from the landing place, in the water, watching
the time that the penguins are about to com-
mence diving to land, at which period they are
the most compact. At this moment, the lion
settles himself under water with the intention
of swimming under them, and when a suitable
opportunity offers, rises suddenly in their midst,
and seizes one or more of the birds in his jaws;
then raising part of his ponderous body out of
the water, he bites and shakes this, his prey,
until they are torn in pieces, then devouring
them. It frequently happens that some of these
birds get badly wounded in the legs or wings,
and land in this maimed condition; whenever
this is the case, they are instantly attacked by
their comrades, who peck and bite them until
up and take their places in the line of
march, or until, by this tormenting, they are
killed.
Of the existence and gentleness of such a
large collection as this, his shipmates had often
told Jonathan, on the passage; yet he was
they rise
12


90
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
nevertheless far from being disposed to believe
them, so that now, when the reality was to be
unexpectedly presented to bim, I had the curi-
osity to attend to, and see what the effect
would be upon his mind. Keeping, therefore, a
few rods in advance of him and his two ship-
mates, I sought a spot where the scene would
at once be open to his sight, and for this pur-
pose selected a large tussuck bog, a little ele-
vated, and near the edge of the rookery.
Having advanced so near as to hear the birds, I
beckoned to Jonathan to come to the same place,
where, on raising himself by my side, and having
the whole view before him of an extensive plain
covered with this feathered race, while many
were hovering over, and others sailing around
the rookery, much like bees over and about their
hive, nothing could equal his earnest and en-
raptured gaze : bis eyes appeared to be ready
to start from their sockets, the scene was so
novel to him. “This, by 'gingoes,'* beats Ver-
* This was the utmost extent of swearing that he ever attained
to during this voyage; and here I take the liberty to remark, that
whenever in command of any vessel, it has been my constant rule,
not to allow any swearing on board, and not to suffer an officer to
curse, or use any low and vulgar language, (to say the least of it)
in my hearing, to the men; and nothing was ever lost by this rule,
I am sure, by me. It was at all times with me a cardinal duty, to
state, on shipping a crew, that it must be well understood by them,


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
91
mont mountains all hollow;" he exclaimed, upon
being asked what he thought of the birds in a
South Sea rookery; giving his eyes no gentle rub
with the hand, the better to assist their vision,
he took another look, and turning suddenly
around, he continued, “Oh! wonderful! who
would ever 'a thought such sights as these were
in the world !" "But this, Jonathan, you must
recollect, is the other side of it, which, on ship-
ping, you were so anxious to come and see.”
Yes, yes, captain, so it is,” said he, “and I am
sufficiently well paid for coming, by the sight!
Victuals and clothes are all I now want; you
are welcome to my voyage, sir.”
His two shipmates had by this time joined us,
and the moment they saw Jonathan's singular
appearance, they commenced, and continued
for some little time, laughing in a most hearty
We now entered the rookeries, for
the purpose of gathering some of the eggs, but
Jonathan's strong desire to see yet more of
what was so entirely new to him, was the cause
of his neglecting all care of himself, and conse-
manner.
as a prominent part of our agreement, that all the quarrelling and
swearing on board was to be done by myself, and the work by them.
This has ever been readily agreed to, nor could I ever discover
any advantage in governing seamen by coarse oaths, or swearing
at all.


92
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
quently of receiving some severe pecks on the
cheeks, so much so as to draw blood, and while
gathering the eggs, his eyes were really in dan-
ger from the beaks of the birds; however, by
sundry frequent intimations of their nearness,
they soon after taught him to be more careful,
and in the present instance, towards the end, as
it were, obliged him to assist in getting together
and taking to the ship the day's collection.
I have kept these penguin's eggs in a good
state of preservation, on board ship, for a period
of nine months, by first immersing them in seal
oil, though any will answer, then packing them
in a cask with dry sand; a layer of sand, then
a layer of eggs, and so on until the cask is
filled, placing them all on their sides, with one
end towards the bung, then heading the cask
up, and stowing it bung up, in such a place as
it can be got at on the third day, in order to be
turned bung down, and so on; being turned
every third day, until wanted for use, this me-
thod keeps the yelk from settling to the shell,
and the sand mixing with the oil, forms a crust
of sand and oil over it, by which the shell is
kept perfectly air tight, and thus the egg is pre-
served from destruction.
On these islands and islets, which are said to
number above three hundred, I have raised ex-


FANNING’S VOYAGES.
93
cellent potatoes, together with some tolerably
good culinary vegetables, and sallad; yet the
soil, except here and there a small patch, is in
general very poor, the surface being mostly co-
vered over with a rank grass, growing in bunches
or bogs, in many instances, over a bed of peat,
which serves the purpose of fuel, while under-
neath is rock of different kinds, gray, blue, and
slate colored. On these islands are to be found
the horse, neat, or black cattle, and hogs, which
have run wild on some of the large ones : on
the English Malone, which is the largest of the
group, is the wolf, or 'rather the wild dog, that
Commodore Byron makes so much mention of.
Several of the islands are also overrun with the
white rabbits. The amphibious animals found
upon them, are the sea-elephant, and the hair
and fur seals. The waters around abound with
several kinds of fish, such as different sorts of
whales, the porpoise, the mullet, and others.
In almost every sandy bay or cove at these
islands, in from two to six feet depth of water,
at low tide, the round clam may be taken with
the rake in great numbers, and as fine as can
be procured in any country; there are also
other shell-fish, such as the limpet and the
muscle.


94
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
We found on the island the large white swan,
with neck entirely black; the upland and low-
land goose; the brant, a very beautiful and de-
licious bird; several kinds of the wild duck;
the teal, an aquatic fowl, and the least of the
duck species; divers; a variety of the plover;
snipe; gulls; sea-hens; rooks, these last a most
troublesome bird, being very mischievous and
full of cunning; shags; albatrosses; the four
different penguins, before mentioned; owls; and
many smaller birds; some of them having plu-
mage of the richest and most beautiful colors.
Many of these can be taken at all seasons, and
without much trouble.
Of berries, there is a great variety, and in the
proper season, large quantities may be collected.
These we ate either raw, or made into puddings.
In fact, a person would be able to subsist at the
Falkland Islands for a considerable length of
time, without experiencing any great degree of
suffering; for in addition to what has been spe-
cified, there is another article of food, and this
is the root of the coarse tussuck grass, which
when pulled up, breaks off close to its fibres ;
after taking off the outside cover, there remains
a pulp about the size of ordinary sparrow-grass,
which on being eaten, tastes very much like a
green chesnut, and is very nourishing. By


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
95
raising a dam across, near the mouth, of the
rivulets and streams, and leaving a gate-way
that may be stopped at high tide, that excellent
fish, the mullet, can be obtained in great abun-
dance: they are equal, in my belief, to any
thing of the kind that the world can produce.
For fuel, besides the peat already spoken of,
there is considerable drift wood along the
shores.
The water for shipping is of the best, and is
to be had in an abundant and convenient supply.
In the harbors, which are numerous and first
rate, the tide rises from four to seven feet, at
different places, and in some of the narrow
passes, the tide is very rapid, which causes, over
the rough or rocky ground, or sunken reefs,
very dangerous rips.
The weather at these islands is most variable.
Severe gales from the northward and south-west
are of frequent occurrence, but at every season
of the year the climate is healthy; seamen at
all times relish their meals with the heartiest
appetite, and with the exception of slight colds
it is very seldom any of them complain of sick-
The temperature of the climate is so
even, that in summer the heat never puts the men
to any inconvenience, and in winter, although
the snow storms are very frequent, yet it seldom
ness.


96
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
remains on the ground, unless at the tops of the
mountains, over forty-eight hours at any one
time; and rarely is the cold so severe as to
freeze the surface of a small pond sufficiently
hard to admit of a person's crossing on the ice.
From the information obtained of Captain
0. Paddock, master of the whale-ship Olive
Branch, of Nantucket, which stopped at these
islands for water and refreshments, while the
Betsey lay here, I was induced to believe we
could at times safely land, and take dry skins
at the island of Massafuero, and notwithstand-
ing this was in direct opposition to my previous
advices, yet from certain former transactions
with Captain Paddock, I was confident that the
utmost dependence could be placed upon his
word: he also mentioned his having more than
once stepped from his boat on shore, at that
island, without even wetting his feet, when the
wind was from a particular point, and satisfac-
torily confirmed the intelligence previously re-
ceived, that the fur seals were numerous at that
island. From this information, and the fact of
our not having been very successful here, I
thought it best to visit Massafuero. A goodly
number of geese and other refreshments, among
which were fifty-six barrels of the favorite pen-
guin eggs, together with plenty of water, were


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
97
accordingly snugly stowed on board, as sea
stock, and Jonathan, who had become a great
favorite with all on board, and to whom his ship-
mates, since our departure from the United
States, had often given an ounce out of their
allowance, from good feeling ; being a great
eater, as well as a wonderful hand at hard
work, was allowed the extra privilege to fill
two tierces with these eggs for himself; this he
did when off duty, his shipmates cheerfully as-
sisting him in his collection of them. From
having made use of dried kelp as fuel, while at
these islands, and which in its dry state was found
to burn well, we were induced to take on board
a supply, as sea stock; but found, to our sad
disappointment, after being a few days at sea,
that it became moist and soft, and when in this
state, would not burn to any advantage, even
when mixed with wood, so that had we de-
pended altogether on the dried kelp as our fuel,
for cooking purposes at sea, we should have
been led into a very unpleasant and uncomfor-
table situation : it is, however, good fuel on
shore, when used in its dry state; it then burns
freely, and makes a good coal.
13


CHAPTER VIII.
PASSAGE ROUND CAPE TORN.
Departure from the Falkland Islands.-Sight of the island of
Staten Land.—Jonathan's speculative notion.-His plan for
successfully completing the same.-Strong current observed off
Cape St. John's.-Recommendations for doubling Cape Horn.
Set of the current.—Albatrosses, Penguins, &c. - Island of Mas-
safuero in sight.-Juan Fernandez.
DECEMBER 8th, 1797. Having made every
necessary preparation for sea, at 9 A. M. got
the ship under way, and stood out through the
south passage, (having in company the Olive
Branch, Captain Paddock) with a fine breeze
from the west, with passing clouds. At meri-
dian, the New Islands bore N. N. E. six leagues
distant. Our course was now to the S. S. W.
At 2 P. M. we had laid the land of these islands
below our horizon; the ship, the while, sur-
rounded by a variety of oceanic birds.
On the 11th, had the wind light from the N.
W. with clear weather. At noon, latitude 549
12 south; had sight of the island of Staten
Land, bearing S. S. W. about twelve leagues
distant. In the evening the wind began to


FANNING’S VOYAGES.
99
fail, the little there was keeping continually
changing, the sea at the time very smooth.
While walking the quarter-deck this evening,
(an exercise I usually took at this portion of the
twenty-four hours) my man Jonathan came aft,
and after folding his arms together, and for a
while swinging his hat in one hand, backwards
and forwards, with all the regularity of a pendu-
lum, his body somewhat bending forward, a
position he usually assumed when desirous of
obtaining any favor, he began the following
short dialogue, in which he made known his
wants and desires, by saying, “If the captain is
willing, I have a favor to ask.”
“Well, and what is it, Jonathan ?"
“Why sir, Ben and Tom says, that the land
we saw before it got dark is an island aside
the Patagonian coast, where these Patagonian
giants, of whom folks talk so much about, live;
and as they expect the captain is going to an-
chor in a harbor there, we have been making up
a plan by which to catch one of them giants,
so that by the time we get home, we can have
him tamed, and then I can show him about the
country, and make a swinging great deal of
money by it."
Well, but my dear fellow, these gigantic
indians are noted warriors, and as it is reported,


100
FANNING’S VOYAGES.
a very wild race; they are also said to be very
large and strong; now how can you expect to
catch one of them ?"
Yes, sir, Ben and Tom both have said that
they were real giants, that their heads are so
big that some of them measures more than a
foot between their eyes; and that's what I so
dreadfully want one for, he'll be such a sight to
show about.”
“Well; now, if they are so large, they must
most likely have great strength in proportion;
and how can you manage so as to master and
catch one ?"
By gosh! captain, (the immense wealth his
imagination had pictured out, as the grand re-
sult of exhibiting one of these people in Ame-
rica, completely setting aside all doubts as to a
successful result of the undertaking) I guess, I
think I know how to do it, easy enough too;
and that's just in the same way as we catch
bears among the mountains in Vermont.”
“ Well, how is that? how do they catch
bears?"
“We take a large tub, sawed from the head
of a hogshead, and place it where the bears
come; then we put into it two gallons of mo-
lasses, and one of New England rum, and a
little water, and then stir all up together; very


102
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
was bent upon accomplishing this scheme,
which his shipmates had no doubt put into his
head.
The wind having by this time settled into a
moderate gale from the N. N. W. we crowded
sail, in order to pass Cape St. John's, the most
eastern promontory of Staten Land, off which
we observed a strong current, and very dan-
gerous rip
12th. The gale from the N. N. W. still blow-
ing, at 2 P. M. we passed Cape St. John's, lati-
tude at noon, 55° 8' south, St. John's then bear-
ing north by west, seven leagues distant.
On the 13th, the wind veered around to the
westward, and at 6 P. M. suddenly burst upon
us in a heavy squall from the S. S. W. in con-
sequence of which we were obliged to heave
the ship to, under a reefed fore-course and storm
stay-sail. In the heavy sea running at the time,
I had the satisfaction to observe that our little
bark, to use the seamen's phrase, “behaved as
lively as a duck." At 8 A. M. the gale had
abated, yet there was a continued succession of
snow squalls after this, during the day. At
noon, our latitude was 55° 30' south, the high
land of Cape St. John's still in sight, bearing
N. W. by W. about thirteen leagues distant.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
103
Up to the nineteenth, nothing occurred worth
noticing, except that we had continually varia-
ble and violent gales, attended with severe
squalls of snow and sleet, and a heavy sea, our
little ship still working admirably; not, how-
ever, when she came in contact with the large
seas, without giving all on deck, even those
quite aft, a wet jacket; the usual salute in
doubling Cape Horn. Our latitude, at noon,
was 60° 31' south, longitude 690 37' west, va-
riation 280 20' easterly.
I would here note the fact, which has been
proved in the recent experience of commanders
of our South Sea sealing vessels, on the passage
round this noted cape into the South Pacific,
since the re-discovery of New South Shetlands,
and of the continent of Palmer's Land, to the
south of them, that a ship desirous to make the
passage, the most favorable and advantageous in
every point of view, should, on leaving Cape
St. John's, stand boldly off to the south, until
she arrives up to the latitude of 63° 00' south,
keeping constantly with the prevailing south-
westerly gales, on her starboard tack; by so
doing, should these gales flat her off to the east-
ward, so as to fall in with the South Shetland
Island, while endeavoring to obtain the above
latitude, no disadvantage will occur, for it will


104
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
not be long after getting sight of these islands,
before the wind will be round from the south-
eastward, when by keeping between the lati-
tudes of 63° and 65° south, she will have east-
erly winds, so as to be enabled to run up her
latitude in a short time. A ship, by taking this
track, in doubling Cape Horn, will arrive in
the South Pacific with far less injury to her
hull, spars, sails, and rigging, and what is cer-
tainly a weighty consideration, and very essen-
tial to their health, with less drenching, hard-
ship, and fatigue to her crew, than by taking
any other; besides making the passage by this
route in a shorter time.
Our sealing vessels have invariably made
their passages from the South Shetlands to the
Island of St. Mary's, on the west coast of Chili,
in from fifteen to twenty days, by running well
to the westward, between those latitudes, and
then, when they come to bear up to the north-
ward, and receive the westerly gales as they
advance north, which blow almost continually
on the Cape Horn side, as well as in the middle
of the passage between the South Shetlands
and this cape, they run their northing up with
a free wind, and make a quick passage of it.
This track is therefore recommended in doub-
ling Cape Horn for the Pacific, at all seasons of


FANNI NG'S VOYAGES.
105
the year; as it is well ascertained, that the west
and south-west gales, on the cape side and in
the stream, effected (as is supposed) by the
mountains, of Palmer's Land and the islands,
blow at the same time from the south and
south-east, above the latitude of 630 south.
On the 24th, having had a calın for several
hours, and, for Cape Horn, a smooth sea, we
lowered away a boat, for the purpose of ascer-
taining the current, which was found to be set-
ting to the north-east, at the rate of three quar-
ters of a mile per hour: our ship still accompa-
nied by many penguins, and numbers of oceanic
birds; we took advantage of this and the calm,
and shot as many sheerwaters, &c., as were
enough to make a pot-pie for all hands.
On the 29th, the calm of the 24th was suc-
ceeded by a light breeze from the north, which
soon increased to a gale, attended with rain ;
were obliged to bring the ship under reefed
courses and storm stay-sails. At 11 A. M. it
began to moderate, the clouds broke away, and
the wind shifted to the W. S. W. At noon,
latitude was 54° 58' south, longitude 760 20
west. At this time had sight of the land of the
west coast; a high cape, bearing north, about
twelve leagues distant, and although it was
midsummer here, the weather soon became so
our
14


106
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
squally, with snow and sleet, as again to close
the sight of land from our view.
January 1st, 1798. Winds light from W. S.
W. and at intervals during the day, squally,
with rain. At 6 P. M. saw the land again,
bearing N. E. at a very great distance, appear-
ing to be very high. Latitude, at noon, 530 55'
south.
6th. The wind, for the several days past, bas
been varying between S. and N. W.; at times
moderate, and then squally, accompanied with
a great deal of rain. At 7 A. M. it suddenly
burst upon us in a squall from the north, with
rain; and at 11 A. M. we had it, a gale from N.
by W. and cloudy: saw the land again; tacked
ship, therefore, and stood off shore. The birds,
such as albatrosses of two or three kinds, black
and gray sheerwaters, also large flights of
snipe, were around the ship continually, as well
as numbers of small land birds, which came on
board, lighting upon the spars and rigging, and
wherever they could find a resting place. The
sea water was this day observed to be highly
colored. Latitude, at noon, 46° 45' south, lon-
gitude 800 56' west, variation 18° 33' easterly.
13th. The weather clear and calm, with a
smooth sea; made trial with the boat to ascer-
tain whether there was any current, but found


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
107
none. Saw several shoals of sperm whales, and
many seals. Our latitude, at noon, was 34° 33
south, longitude 80° 10' west, variation 11° 24'
easterly. Had now a light breeze from S. S.
E. with pleasant weather.
19th. The wind, during the last five days, re-
mained between the S. S. E. and S. S. W. points
of the compass, with a moderate breeze, the
weather still continuing pleasant. At 6 A. M.
had sight of the island of Massafuero, bearing
W. half S.; at 7 A. M. the Island of Juan Fer-
nandez was also in sight, bearing E. by N.
Hauled up for Massafuero, and at 10 A. M. was
near its northern shore, on which, with the
assistance of the glass, numbers of seal were
seen.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
109
ance very high, should, on nearing it be found
to be dangerous. I was the more urgent on
this point, as previous to what Captain Pad-
dock had stated; that as often as every fifth or
seventh day, there would be no danger in the
attempt; that then one could step from the boat
on shore without even so much as wetting the
feet; and which information was subsequently
found to be correct, I had been induced to be-
lieve, from various reports, that it was not prac-
ticable to make a landing on this island without
swimming through the surf; consequently no
dry fur seal skins could be brought off without
their getting wet before reaching the ship; it
would therefore be useless to come here for
them. Under this impression, when the boats
put off, I was very desirous that no attempt
of the kind, viz. at a landing, should be made,
lest something might occur which would have
a tendency to depress the spirits of the men,
and discourage them from making any farther
exertions, but would rather have waited until
such days when there should be no surf, in
the meanwhile laying off and on with the
ship. As the boats neared the shore, (being
yet outside the outer rollers) on it, together
with the north-west plain of the island, be-
tween three and four hundred thousand of


110
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
these fur seals were at once presented to their
view: this was a temptation so powerful, as to
induce the second officer, regardless of all orders
and instructions, and the present advice and
consent of his senior officer, to determine upon
immediately trying to land.
His boat's crew were, as well as himself, all
good swimmers, and counting upon this as their
security in case of an upset, until their com-
rades in the other boat should take them up, or
they be able to reach the shore in safety, they
obstinately and imprudently decided to pull
boldly through the surf, and effect the landing
on the rocky beach at all hazards. When
within one or two hundred yards of the desired
point, the boat was struck by an over-sized
breaker, and capsized the bow, striking against
a rock under water, and breaking her into two
parts in the first blow; the men, by swimming
and diving, and managing the best way they
could, were at length enabled by God's Provi-
dence, to reach the land, every man maimed or
bruised in a greater or less degree, by the vio-
lence with which the surf had thrown them
against the rocks, losing every article they had
except those on their bodies; as for the boat,
little of it was to be found, for literally speaking,
it was stove into more than a hundred pieces.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
111
After waiting until he had seen the men one
by one safely reach the shore, the senior officer
returned to the ship with this sad report. It
was now blowing a gale; the boat was there-
fore hoisted in on deck, after which tacked ship
off shore, and trimmed sails so as to keep to the
windward, and hold on to the island; all hands
were then mustered aft, and informed of the
precipitate act of the officer on shore, and the
consequent misfortune resulting from it, yet
notwithstanding this, there was no cause to
doubt our, eventually, succeeding in procuring
a cargo for the China market at this island;
moreover, it was to be hoped that no one would
suffer himself to be in the least discouraged,
adding the assurance that had been received
from Captain Paddock, of the possibility of
landing at particular days, and which there was
no reason to call in question. The steward, at
the conclusion, received orders to “splice the
main brace," and the men giving three cheers,
repaired to their several duties. Next day it
blew a severe gale, and was so squally as not to
permit even our indulging a hope to land; but
on the second day it moderated, and in the after
part of the same, while standing in shore as
near as prudence would allow, we observed by
a signal affixed to an oar that the men on shore


112
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
were in want, hove the ship to, therefore, and
hoisted out a boat, into which were put a strong
iron bound sixty-gallon cask of water, and
another of bread. An active seaman, as well
as good swimmer, who was applied to, to guide
these two casks from the boat at the grapnels
through the surf to his shipmates, by swimming
one at a time in such a direction as to cause
them to land at one of the smoothest places
clear of the rocks, answered he thought he
could, and was willing to do his best.
The boat then put off, and soon after returned
with the information that both the casks had
been safely guided to our men, who by signs had
made it known, that they had suffered much
for want of water. The evening now setting
in, we hoisted the boat on deck, and trimmed
ship to keep to the windward, intending to
make trial again with her the following morn-
ing, as the wind and present appearances en-
couraged us to hope we should then meet with
more success. Accordingly, early in the day,
stood close in with the ship; the surf, as now
seen with a glass, did not appear to be so high
as the few days past.
In addition to a similar quantity of water
and bread, there was put into the boat two coils
of deep sea line, each one hundred and twenty


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
113
fathoms in length, together with sealing appa-
ratus, all of which were to be landed, if the
surf would allow the boat to approach within
two hundred fathoms of the stony beach, so
that the line might be made to reach it. By the
bright countenances of the crew, who shortly
after returned, we were prepared to hear some
good news. And so it was; for they reported
the complete success of the past exertions, and
that on the first trial by swimming with the end
of our line to the shore, the seaman had guided
the casks in safety, and that they had disem-
barked every article in the same condition;
likewise stating that the surf was now become
so moderate as to admit of similar operations.
This last was confirmed upon the subsequent
return of the boat, when it appeared that the
swell had so far subsided as to admit of their
resting the bows on the beach, and thus land
the articles from her.
Upon this, our communications with the
shore were pushed on with additional activity;
so that by the middle of the afternoon, every
thing necessary was landed, and the first offi-
cer having gone on shore with a fresh gang of
men, had sent off the second, together with all
the bruised invalids, to the ship. Our business
of procuring a cargo of fur seal skins was now
15


114
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
commenced, and the practicability of continuing
it, and embarking the skins safe and dry on
ship-board, established beyond a doubt.
From the statement of the second officer, it
appeared that they had not been able to disco-
ver any fresh water on this part of the island;
and in consequence of this, and not finding any
pass over the mountain to the other parts, the
sufferings of himself and shipmates had been
very severe, until their receiving the first cask
which had been sent off to them. As to food,
although almost entirely destitute of any, as
well as fire, or means by which to make one,
yet they had managed to get along tolerably
well, by cutting the meat of the seals into very
thin slices, and laying these upon the rocks,
exposed to the sun until perfectly dry. They
also caught a few fish, which were prepared in
a similar manner, and made to answer as pro-
visions. Nor were we able, during our stay, to
obtain any fresh water, on the north-west side
of the island; but upon strictly searching, we
discovered a passage over to the other parts,
and up the east side of the mountain, some good
water; also near its base on the east side of its
south-east point, a spring of excellent water
was found, with a deep pool, or basin, some
twenty by thirty feet in circumference, at-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
115
tached to it, abreast of which is a small beach,
very convenient for shipping to fill their water,
by anchoring eighteen or twenty fathoms off;
while at a short distance, fire wood can be
obtained.
While we remained here, the weather for the
most of the time was pleasant, the wind gene-
rally blowing from the S. S. E. and S. W. with
once in every two or three weeks a gale from
the north, which brought along with it plenty of
rain, invariably succeeded by torrents of water,
rushing down the gullies, by this means greatly
increased in size, bringing along stones, rocks,
earth, and trees, which last the violence of the
gale had torn from their roots, and on their way
down the mountain, were broken in pieces and
left in heaps in the niches on the sides of the
gullies, where the wood becomes dry and well
seasoned, and in fine condition for ship use; it
is also very convenient, and easily to be pro-
cured. In the woods, on the mountain, there are
many kinds of small birds; the goats we found
in great numbers, and gentle, or rather, not very
shy; it was no very difficult matter to walk
around and huddle them closely together, and
in this manner, with a single discharge of buck-
shot, kill from three to five; they were found to
be fat, sweet, and excellent.


116
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
The waters of Massafuero abound with a
great variety of the finest fish, among which are
the halibut, cod, sea bass, &c. &c. The large
grouper, caught here in deep water, forms the
chief part of a dish that would satisfy the de-
sire of a most fastidious epicure. A supply of
sea bass, and other fish, was obtained by the
men in a manner seldom practised, but not the
less successful on that account: thus, while
washing out the seal skins at the edge of the
water, bits and scraps of meat and blubber
were thrown into it; these the fish would most
eagerly seek to get hold of, and shortly became
so ravenous for them as to come up with their
heads out of water, near to the seamen, and
thus exposed, were easily killed with the seal
clubs.
The only places for anchorage at this island
are on the east side, abreast of the watering-
place, and off the north-west side, abreast of
the plain ; at this last mentioned place, we fre-
quently anchored in twelve to fifteen fathoms,
over a bed of rocks and sand, for the purpose
of receiving our cargo.
By the second day of April, we had procured,
and conveyed safely on board, a full cargo of
selected fur seal skins; indeed, so anxious were
the officers and men to make sure of filling the


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
117
ship, that even after the hold was stowed so as
not to have room for any more, then the cabin,
and finally the forecastle, were filled, leaving
just space enough for the accommodation of the
ships's company; and yet there was remaining
in stacks on shore, more than four thousand
skins; with these, a boatswain and boat's com-
pany were left, to take charge of, and add to,
until a vessel from our owners should call for
them. These dry skins, after being stowed on
board ship for a few days, in tiers, will settle
very
much. This was the case with our own;
in the course of a couple of weeks we were
enabled to clear the men's abode in the fore-
castle, and in like manner a portion of the
cabin; but notwithstanding this, leaving still
on deck a small part of our bread and salt pro-
visions, with at least the full half of our wood
and water, for some length of time afterwards.
Every thing was now actively preparing for
sea; wood and water, together with an abun-
dant sea stock of goats meat, was got on board,
and carefully secured. Thus, in the space of
ten weeks, by perseverance and industry,
was our little ship completely laden to cross the
Pacific to Canton, for a market; every one in
fine spirits for the performance of farther duties.
At the time of leaving Massafuero, there was,


118
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
according to our computation, between five and
seven hundred thousand fur seals there, and se-
veral thousand wild goats; subsequently, there
has been but little short of a million of those fur
seal skins taken at this island, nearly all of
which were carried to Canton, and there ex-
changed for China goods, suitable for the home
market, which must have paid several hundred
thousand dollars into the treasury of the United
States. Such an amount from this isolated
spot, is one evidence in the many of the import-
ant advantage American enterprise, in this
fishery and commercial trade of the Pacifics,
has heretofore been to the nation; therefore, the
obligation on government by exploring, to dis-
cover new places and sources for its continued
support
April 5th, 1798. We left Massafuero at 6 P.
M. and stood to the N. W. for the purpose of
getting hold of the true trade wind, and then to
shape our course for the Marquesas Islands.
At a distance, as Massafuero sunk below the
horizon, the portion of mountain (about three
quarters) yet in sight, appeared in form very
similar to that of a shoe.
8th. The island bore S. S. E. four leagues
distant.
10th. Pleasant weather, with a fresh breeze


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
119
.
from the S. E. Latitude, at noon, 27° 28' south,
longitude 800 23' west. In the evening, large
flights of birds passed by the ship, making a
noise precisely like that made by land-snipe.
15th. The weather still continues pleasant,
with a moderate trade wind from E. S. E. La-
titude, at noon, 22° 16' south, longitude 86° 43
west. Unlike the course pursued by able and
celebrated European navigators, as appeared in
the various accounts of their voyages which we
had on board, wherein it is asserted, that they
were under the necessity of putting into port,
even in those trade wind latitudes of the Pa-
cific Ocean, in order to refit and repair their
ship’s rigging, &c., we accomplished the opera-
tion of stripping a ship's masts, and putting on
an entire new suit of rigging, at sea.
thing of the kind had ever been performed before
this, or if it had, never to our knowledge, it
must of course be considered as an American
precedent.
Previous to the ship's departure from New
York, a sufficient quantity of rope, for a new
gang of standing rigging, had been taken on
board; this had been prepared, during our lei-
sure hours heretofore, and fitted, in readiness to
go over the mast-head when necessary. For
several days past, the trade wind had not veered
J
As no-


120
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
more than two points, blowing directly on our
stern, so that all the sails which would be of
service, could be set on one mast. This was a
most favorable opportunity for replacing our old
rigging with the new; we, therefore, hit upon
the expedient of stripping one mast at a time,
and accordingly commenced with the fore-mast,
securing it well by purchases and tackles at the
hounds, before letting up the lower rigging,
afterwards putting the new suit on the lower
mast, top-mast, &c., and then setting all taught
up, preparatory to spreading sail on it; as soon
as every thing was completely ready, this was
done, and the main-mast served in a like
manner. (It will of course be recollected, that
the mizen-mast and rigging were new when we
left the Cape De Verd Islands.) Our carpenter
and armorer were first rate workmen, and had
made a set of machinery, by means of which
from the old rigging we layed a new set of
running rigging throughout; thus equipped,
our ship, as respected her rigging, was now in
a far better condition than when she left the
United States. This was a great consolation,
the more so from the probability, that at the
time we should enter the China Sea, we might
expect to meet bad weather, and perhaps a
typhoon.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
121
20th. Our fair wind still holds on from E. S.
E. as well as the agreeable weather so long en-
joyed. We had this day in company, some tro-
pic and egg birds, as well as our little Neptu-
nian favorites, the flying fish. During the few
nights past, the dew has been very heavy, fall-
ing from the sails, as after a rain; we likewise
experienced a swell from the southward. Lati-
tude, at noon, 17° 38' south, longitude 95° 53
west, variation 50 4' easterly.
27th. Wind and weather, same as for the few
past days. Several shoals of herring-hogs
passed around and by the ship, as well as great
numbers of oceanic and land birds, such as
cape hens, a solitary small hawk, egg birds, and
others. Latitude, at noon, 14° 18' south, longi-
tude 106° 35' west, variation 3° 39' easterly.
Our ship now under full sail, steering-sails on
both sides, alow and aloft, and sky-scrapers.
The nights now are, and have been for some
time past, most delightful, with the atmosphere
over head so clear, that the stars appear to shine
with additional brilliancy.
It was not until May 2d, that the weather
began to show any signs of alteration; when,
for the following twenty-four hours, we had
some squalls of rain, with thunder and light-
ning. At 6 P. M. had it calm, with a smooth
16


122
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
sea; embraced the opportunity, and made trial
to discover the current, but without success.
Latitude, at noon, 10° 30' south, longitude 116°
33' west, variation 2° 43' easterly. The little
white gulls hovering over the ship, together
with some small land birds, evince a disposition
to light. Had once more in company, the Spa-
nish mackerel, flying-fish, and now and then a
dolphin.
17th. Had the trade wind from about east;
at times, a passing cloud, from which fell light
showers of rain. Latitude, at noon, gº 25.
south, longitude 1370° 28' west, variation 2° 5
easterly. Saw this day several shoals of sperm
whales, black fish, and herring-hogs.
19th. A light trade wind from the same
quarter as on the 17th, with hazy weather. At
half past three P. M. the man on the lookout,
at the top-mast-head, gave the welcome cry of
"land ho!" bearing W. by S. about six leagues
distant, stating it to be a high round island, in
form of a sugar loaf; this, on a nearer view,
proved to be Hood's Island. At the distance of
forty-eight leagues to the eastward of this
island, we began to fall in with shoals of
sperm whales, and their frequent neighbors, the
round blunt nosed fish, called by the whalemen,
black fish; these increased in numbers, until


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
123
we had arrived within three leagues of this
island. At 5 P. M. the Island of La Domi-
neaque was in sight, bearing S. W. by W.
about seven leagues distant. At 8 P. M.
brought the ship upon a wind; passed the night
under easy sail, on short tacks, to keep our sta-
tion to windward of the land. In the morning,
at five o'clock, bore up, and made sail to the
westward, towards the land; an hour after-
wards, had sight of the Island of St. Pedrie,
bearing S. S. W. five leagues distant. This
island is said to be inhabited by the handsomest
built race of people of all the South Pacific
Islands. At 8 A. M. the Island of La Chris-
tiana was in sight, bearing S. W. by W. half
W. seven leagues off. Wore ship with the in-
tention of running down along the north coast
of La Domineaque: as we came abreast of the
valleys, the green foliage of the trees presented
a most enchanting prospect to our eyes, having
been so long estranged therefrom. At 11 A. M.
a double canoe came along side, in which were
eleven of the natives; on heaving the ship to,
some of these clambered up the side as far as
the plank sheer, on which they remained, hold-
ing on by the rail-way; nothing could induce
them to come over on the deck; they neverthe-


124
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
less very readily bartered their cocoa-nuts, &c.,
for nails and small pieces of iron hoops. This
traffic being soon finished, we bore away again
to the westward, along shore, at noon being
near the middle of the island, and but a short
distance from it; our latitude was 90 40
south.


CHAPTER X.
A VISIT TO THE MARQUESAS AND WASHINGTON ISLANDS,
WITH TRANSACTIONS TIIERE.
Shyness of the natives.-Difficulty in trading with them.--Their
cautious conduct.—Fragrance of their valleys.-Scarcity of pro-
visions among them.--Arrival at La Christiana.-Unexpected
visiters. The Rev. William P. Crook.-His statements in re-
ference to the island.-An Italian renegado.—His wicked plans
and enterprises. Watch placed over Mr. Crook and friend.
Their escape.-Scheme for capturing the Betsey.-Chief leaves
the ship with his present.-Departure from the Marquesas Isl-
ands.—New manner of eating fish.- Arrival at the Washington
group.-Hostile attitude of the natives.-Imminent risk of the
ship and crew.-Her narrow escape.-Native names of islands.
-Leave the Washington Islands.- Arrival at Nuggoheeva.
May 20th, 1798. Had pleasant weather, with a
moderate breeze. At 2 P. M. hove the ship to,
abreast a valley covered with the bread-fruit
and cocoa-nut trees. We were soon visited by
three canoes, from a village near by; the natives
bringing with them, however, no other articles
for trade than a few eels, and some squid, a
small fish, of a sweetish and rather unpleasant
taste;. these we thought proper to decline pur-
chasing, and filled away again. At 5 P. M.
brought the ship to again, opposite another vil-


126
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
lage, from which several canoes put off for us,
yet there were but two of these that we could
in any way persuade to come along side; from
the natives in these, we were soon made to un-
derstand the cause of their fear; for the first
sign given by them was to inform us that they
were afraid of our carriage-guns. This source
of disquiet was therefore speedily removed, by
causing all the guns to be run in, and the ports
to be shut. Their companions observing this
last movement, immediately came along side ;
not yet however, entirely divested of dread, or
in full confidence, yet notwithstanding this, we
managed matters so successfully as to obtain
from them a few cocoa-nuts, and a sort of pud-
ding, made from the bread-fruit, also some of
their fishing lines in exchange for small pieces
of iron hoop of from four to five inches in length,
and some nails. Iron, in any shape, they were
most anxious to obtain; the beads and toys
were held in little estimation; the small look-
ing-glasses, and bright buttons, when handed to
them they would turn over and over, examining
every part very carefully before they gave up
their articles, then after pondering the pros and
cons, they would return the glasses, and point
to the pieces of iron hoop.
At sunset, our visiters had taken their leave,


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
127
and when clear of us, we hauled off shore, under
easy sail, upon a wind, for the purpose of keep-
ing our station during the night. The fragrance
of these green valleys, brought off to us by
flaws of wind at intervals, was truly delicious,
and a person that has at no time enjoyed it; can
scarcely be able to conceive with what delight
we received it, after having been for a length of
time at sea; it actually seems to take hold upon
the feelings in such a manner as to reanimate
the whole system.
At day-break, stood in for the shore. At 8
A. M. brought the ship to, abreast of a village,
from which in a very short time we were visited
by a number of the natives, in their canoes,
bringing along articles for barter. Our guns
having been previously run in, and the ports
closed, no difficulty was experienced in inducing
them to come along side; a brisk trade was
therefore speedily commenced, bits of iron hoop,
nails, and knives, being given in payment for
cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, fish, and fish-lines. Af-
ter trading until all they had brought off was
sold, they left us, and we bore up, and at noon
the north-west end of the island bore S. S. E.
two leagues distant, at which time we hauled
on a wind for the Island of La Christiana.
On the 21st, we were employed in working


128
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
to windward. During the night had heavy
showers of rain, and squally weather. At 8
A. M. when close up under the Island of La
Christiana, and near to Cook's harbor, into
which we purposed working the ship, for an
anchorage, as well as to obtain water and re-
freshments; several canoes came off, contain-
ing a greater number of the natives than we
had yet seen together. This induced me to
heave to, and an active trade was again esta-
blished. As was the case with the other na-
tives, so here; nothing but cocoa-nuts, bread-
fruit, and small fish, could be had, and for these
they wanted powder, knives, tools, axes, hatch-
ets, and the like. The first mentioned article
I refused giving them entirely; in hopes too of
being able to persuade them to bring off some
hogs, &c. the axes and hatchets were held back.
It was in vain, however, and I was led to believe
that these, with fowls, and other productions,
were not very plenteous among them; this was
subsequently found to be the fact. At this mo-
ment, two personages, who, from the great de-
ference shown them by the others, their superior
equipments, and the large number of attend-
ants, (there being some thirty or so) were evi-
dently men of rank and influence, came along
side in a large double canoe; yet even these


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
129
had
none,
of those articles we were so anxious
to procure. We were soon given to understand,
that their wishes were, to have the ship brought
into the harbor; promising also, when this was
done, that we should be supplied with hogs, and
all things, in great abundance.
From the friendly bearing of these people, I
was induced to believe we might be greatly
benefitted in having their assistance in piloting
the ship into the harbor; but after remaining on
board some hours, during which time every ex-
ertion had been made, by working to windward,
to obtain the desired point, without success,
they left us a little past noon, exhibiting while
on board, every appearance of discontentedness,
and an impatience to be getting on shore; never-
theless, as they pushed off, making us many
friendly and inviting signs to come soon to an
anchor in their harbor. The double war canoes
had each on its bows, by way of ornament, four
human skulls, and as we were examining these,
the chiefs offered to part with them in barter;
but not being the sort of refreshment for which
we were seeking, their proposal in this case was
refused. While attempting to get in, the wind
came off in such heavy gusts and whirls, that
we were frequently obliged to clew all down
17


130
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
and up, so that instead of gaining ground, we
lost.
22d. In addition to the hard squalls and gusts
of wind of the previous day, we began to have
at 1 P. M. heavy showers of rain. This was a
trifle too uncomfortable for our Indian acquaint-
ances, who were not long in making up their
minds as to quitting. At 3 P. M. on the light-
ing up of a rain squall, a small canoe, in whic
only two persons were to be seen, was observed
hastening towards the ship, coming from the
western part of the island, or from some spot to
the westward of the harbor. All the natives
had recently left us, and who this stranger could
be, was a question none on board could answer.
It appeared to be so singular a circumstance,
that notwithstanding the imperative necessity
there existed for securing an anchorage in the
harbor, if possible, before night should close
in upon us, that the ship was hove to, to wait
until these persons should arrive something
nearer. As their small canoe came along side,
we were greatly astonished to hear one of the
persons exclaim in our mother tongue, “Sir, I
am an Englishman, and now call upon, as I
have come to you, to preserve my life.” Words
cannot express my surprise at this moment, on
hearing so unexpected a claim. The stranger


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
131
was instantly assisted in getting up the gang-
way, and ne sooner had attained the deck,
than observing, "I am a missionary,” he sank
into a seat provided for him on the quarter-
deck, and bowed his head for a few minutes, in
this position returning thanks to that Heavenly
Being who protects even the sparrow; mean-
while, regardless of those around, he seemed
only anxious to acknowledge his Creator's kind-
ness in thus once more giving him freedom.
After receiving the assurance of being among
Christian friends, and becoming a little more
composed, he arose, and proceeded to give an
account of past transactions on the island.
“Thank Heaven! sir," I answered to one of
his inquiries, "you are safe." He then stated
himself to be the Rev. William Pascoe Crook,
whom the Missionary Society in London had
sent out to these islands, where he had been
landed some months past, from the missionary
ship Duff, Captain Wilson ; that the recent, as
well as the present disposition of the natives
towards him, had kept his mind in a continued
state of uneasiness for weeks past; that in two
instances of narrow escape, he owed the pre-
servation of bis life, under God's blessing, to his
friend, the native chief who had accompanied
him on board, and whom he at this time intro-


132
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
duced, adding the wish to remain with the ship
until he could be landed in some place of safety.
In reply, I observed, that the character he bore
was à sufficient recommendation to insure for
himself all the comforts and accommodation
our ship could afford, and that he was at
liberty to consider her as his home, and make
use of the cabin as freely and equally with
myself, until we should arrive at New York
again.
After introducing Mr. Crook to the officers,
and requesting their particular attention in his
behalf, together with his friend the chief, he
was led below, into the cabin, where, upon
being seated, my limited wardrobe was spread
before him, with a request that he would select
for himself. Mr. Crook was at this time dressed
in the native garb of the island, having only the
maro on (a piece of cloth manufactured by the
natives, which wound around the middle of the
body, with one end passing down in front, is
tucked up at the back, under the part which
goes around the body); the remaining por-
tion of his person, from being continually ex-
posed to the sun, had become tanned nearly as
brown as the chiefs themselves were; and this
mode of dress he had been under the necessity
of submitting to for months past. At his re-


FANNING’S VOYAGES.
133
quest, (he thinking it would not be judicious to
choose out or accept any portions of dress so
long as his friend the chief remained on board)
the selection of garments was left until the
chief should go on shore. At the same time
Mr. Crook stated that he felt very anxious to
communicate to me some information respecting
the state of the island, which would have a
reference to the government of my
future
pro-
ceedings; as he conceived, from the knowledge
he possessed, that the utmost danger awaited
us if we should work into the harbor, as was at
present our intention. Upon learning this, the
officer in command on deck received immediate
orders not to proceed any farther in endeavoring
to work the ship into the chops of the harbor.
The Reverend Gentleman then went on to
state, that a few months after the ship Duff,
Captain Wilson, in which vessel he had ar-
rived at this island, had left, another ship had
touched there, for water and refreshments, from
which an Italian renegado had deserted, and
secreting himself until the vessel's departure,
still remained on the island. This man was
possessed of a very insinuating manner, and had
moreover taken with him, at the time of his
leaving the ship, a musket, a quantity of pow-
der, and some balls, by means of which he very


134
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
soon so far ingratiated himself into the favor of
the leading or principal chief, as to become a
prominent director in the affairs of the island.
It was upon this man's proposition, that the war
with the natives of La Domineaque, which had
raged for some time with all that savageness
and barbarity peculiar to their mode of warfare,
had been commenced; he had also instigated
them to fight against another tribe, adjoining
whose land lay the estate and place of residence
of the chief which had brought Mr. Crook on
board. This was at a considerable distance to
the westward of the harbor, and was the spot
whence they had paddled off to the ship, and
where, in company with his friend, the chief,
Mr. Crook had been keeping watch, anxiously
waiting for an opportunity to carry their plan
of escape into effect. It was in consequence of
Mr. Crook's disapproving of the wicked plans
and enterprises of this fellow, and because, as
feeling it to be his solemn duty to his God, and
these his fellow-mortals, he had protested
against his farther leading them on in further-
ance of his abominable practices, that he had
become bitterly opposed to Mr. Crook, and was
the cause of all his painful distress; to such an
extent did this Italian's hatred for Mr. C. lead
him, that at last the principal chieftain and se-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
135
veral of the petty chiefs, were (by him) induced
to' watch for an opportunity to murder Mr.
Crook. The natives were the more ready to
submit to this Italian's management, because of
his possessing the musket, powder, and shot;
the wonderful superiority of this instrument in
battle over their own arms, leading them to be-
lieve he was invincible; and with his aid, he
persuaded them that they would not only be en-
abled to conquer all the tribes in both the islands,
make them to be subjects, and pay tribute to
their principal chief, but would furnish sufficient
means for them to take and destroy every vessel
that would hereafter stop at their harbor, and
possess themselves of all the iron and valuables :
but before any thing of this kind could be done,
he was exceedingly solicitous that they should
massacre Mr. Crook.
This gentleman, while alone among the In-
dians, had, by his kind behavior and regard for
their well being, secured the affections of many
of the chiefs, but none were so warmly attached
to him as his friend who had brought him off*:
this man being their first war chief, a station
giving its possessor much influence and weight
in their counsels, and second to none in the
tribe, except the principal leader, had often
boldly confronted them, and exposed his own


136
FANNI NG’S VOYAGES.
life to save that of Mr. Crook, which was daily
in imminent danger, from the ambushes and
snares that were laid to entrap him, continually
changed, and suited as they were to destroy
him, as he was found to be more or less attended
by his friends; unable, however, to succeed in
their wicked attempts, at the same time well
knowing that both Mr. Crook and his friend
were acquainted with the plan of operations,
and therefore sure that if either of them should
succeed in getting to the ship, their hopes of
cutting her off would be at an end, by the dis-
closures they would make, word had been
sent to them early in the day, by which both
were informed that it was the desire of the prin-
cipal chief, that neither should go on board the
ship, (which, according to a custom among the
chiefs, amounted to a taboo) as he had concluded
to go and see the captain himself. In order to se-
cure the more faithful obedience to this man-
date, and watch over them, a petty chief fre-
quently called from the harbor (using as a cover
for his main errand), to consult on the plan, re-
port progress, and counsel and advise with the
chief at his residence; here had these two, the
moment our ship first appeared in sight, kept a
lookout, and so soon as those two chiefs, who
had remained so long on board, acting partly


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
137
as pilots (one of whom we now learned was the
principal, the other one of his counsellors), were
known to have left the ship with the other na-
tives; they embraced the opportunity offered by
the thick rain squall, and put off; their risk
was great, for death it was thought, would have
been the certain lot of both, had they been in-
tercepted. There really appeared to be a parti-
cular Providence attending us, and I am free to
acknowledge, that afterwards I felt self-con-
demned, for having suffered my mind to be
chafed by the obstruction experienced in our
advance, from those squalls and gales of wind,
and which had been, by preventing our getting
into the harbor, the means of our preservation;
as most likely, had we this day so anchored, all
would have been cut off and massacred. Our
ship was to have been their first victim, and
from her small size, would have been the very
one to be desired, as they were much more
likely to succeed upon her than against a
larger. We now saw distinctly, the reason
why the two chiefs were so earnest in their so-
licitations to have us enter their harbor; as also
why the productions of the island were so very
scarée: the renegado had, in fact, been com-
pletely successful in engaging the head chief to
take the very prominent part in his plan of ope-
18


138
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
rations, which he was then acting out, and as
there was not on the island, at this moment, a
supply for our ship, the promise that an abun-
dance should be given us, was but a portion of
his share in the villanous scheme.
The mode by which they expected to succeed
in the capture of our vessel, as we now learned,
was, when night shut in, to send off swimmers
and divers with the end of a rope, to be made
fast to the ship's rudder hangings, still keeping
the other end on shore; the ship’s cable was
next to be cut off under water, and so soon as
this was accomplished, the natives on shore
were prepared to haul away on the line, and
drag her with what force they could muster, on
shore. The Italian, in all this design, had
proved himself a cold-blooded monster, and a man
altogether void of any humane feeling. He had
made the people believe that their success was
certain, and lest a vestige should have remained,
by which the affair could ever have been disco-
vered, all hands were at once to have been de-
stroyed, and the vessel burned.
Thus they hoped to gain two points at once;
suffering nothing of the vessel, or any of the
crew, to remain in existence, and secure all the
iron, an article which they held in great esti-
mation; the powder, cannon, and fire-arms,


FANNING'S VOYAGES,
139
were to be kept for the purpose of more easily
taking the next vessel that should arrive, as
well as a means by which they were at once to
be made more powerful than the other tribes,
whom they could then safely go to war against;
thus becoming the most wealthy, most power-
ful, and of course the greatest of all the island-
ers in the Pacific. The whole plan seemed to
them as easy to be accomplished; great depend-
ence was also placed upon the divers and
swimmers, and very few of the natives but were
proficients in this business. The utmost silence
too was to be preserved, and thus they expected
to avoid detection from the watch on deck: when
the cable was cut, by hauling the ship astern,
until she went aground, they were made to be-
lieve she would immediately keel over, so that
her great guns would become unserviceable,
and their superiority in numbers make the cap-
ture an easy one.
Thus engaged in conversation, the time had
passed very rapidly, and it was near sunset
when the chief, getting more and more uneasy,
was informed by Mr. Crook, that as he had now
found an opportunity to return to his country,
it was his duty to embrace it, and therefore he
could no' more go back with him to the shore.
The chieftain was much distressed at this an-


140
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
nouncement, and expressed himself as fearing
that he should not long survive the separation;
but knowing the danger Mr. Crook was ex-
posed to in going again into the canoe, he could
not ask him so to do; yet hoped it would not be
many moons before he would again see him
back to their country, together with Captain
Wilson, by which time their wars would be
ended, and all things put right. Mr. Crook was
much affected by the chief's attachment for
him, and replied, that if Heaven was so pleased,
he hoped ere long to have the happiness to take
him by the hand again, reminding him at the
same time of the promise* he had given to no-
tify the captain of the next vessel, and of all
others that should come to their island, of the
danger, in time to prevent their receiving the
smallest harm to crew or vessel; this he pro-
mised most faithfully to perform.
When we had descended at first into the
cabin, I had taken from my pocket my pistols,
and laid them on the cabin locker: the chief,
after minutely examining their locks, handles,
and barrels, inquired of Mr. Crook what they
* True to the promise he had given, the captain of the ship But-
tersworth, the next vessel that touched at this island, received suffi-
ciently early information to avoid the danger, as the author has
been subsequently informed.


FANNI NG'S VOYAGES.
141
were good for, particularly into the manner in
which they were used; being satisfied in all
these particulars, he next was very solicitous to
have one of them presented to him. Though
preparing to make him a suitable present, I
was not willing to part with either of these,
and therefore answered, that as all the arms,
powder, and guns, on board the ship, were
tabooed* by the superior chief in my country,
none of them therefore could be taken out of
her to be given to any person. The explanation
was highly satisfactory, and the respect they
have for any thing tabooed, appeared to close
all his interest in any thing about the pistols.
I now proceeded to lay out for him such arti-
cles as were deemed the most acceptable, such
as a few axes, some hatchets, knives, razors,
with an assortment of small cutlery; adding
along with them, to complete the variety, a
parcel of beads and glasses, until Mr. Crook,
who, when requested to state what would be
most highly prized as a gift, had declined so to
do, leaving it altogether to myself, now said
there was a great abundance, and a present so
ample he did not hesitate to say would produce
for the chief a good reception upon his return
* Prohibited, or forbidden.


142
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
to the shore, notwithstanding his instrumentality
in securing the escape of Mr. Crook. When told
that all these things were to be put into his
canoe as a gift for himself in consideration of
his being Mr. Crook's friend, and of the promise
he had given to do his best to prevent any ves-
sels which should hereafter touch at their island
receiving any damage, he was greatly elated,
boasting that now he was the most wealthy
among all their people, more so than even the
head chief, whom he could now boldly tell, that
the principal cause of all the distress among
them was in consequence of their keeping such
a had man there as the Italian deserter was;
and moreover, that so long as he stayed, they
could never expect peace, plenty, and comfort,
but would surely have contentions, and bloody
wars, and strifes.
The parting scene between these two friends
was truly affecting; and such a one as might
well be supposed to have taken place, where,
on one side was a heart duly capable of appre-
ciating the attentions so long received, and the
imminent risk which had been run in his behalf
while effecting his escape; and on the other,
was a child of nature, possessing virtues and
feelings that would have been creditable to a
civilized being, and who felt that he was now


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
143
parting with the only man who had ever given
him so much knowledge about his eternal wel-
fare, who had ever taught him to see the little
claim matters connected with this life had to
his attention, compared with those beyond the
grave.
When yet some fifty yards distant from the
ship, paddling for the shore, the chief stopped
his canoe, and called out to Mr. Crook to return
in a few moons at farthest, or he should not live
to see him again; then giving the friendly flou-
rish, with his paddle, he continued his way
for home.
From Mr. Crook I received information of the
existence of another group of islands, four in
number, which he mentioned had been recently
discovered by one of our countrymen, in a ship
from Boston, and called the Washington Islands,
laying in a north-west direction from these. He
was very earnest in recommending our imme-
diately sailing; having understood that their
language was very similar to that spoken by
the natives of the Marquesas Islands, which he
was well acquainted with, and well qualified to
speak, there could be no doubt but Mr. Crook
could also understand and speak that of those
new islands, at all events sufficiently well to
act as our interpreter, in procuring water and


144
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
refreshments, as we should want them; which
subsequently was found to be the fact.
There being no prospect that we should ob-
tain any supplies at this place, the ship's course
was accordingly directed for the Washington
Islands. On returning to the cabin, after see-
ing our friend the chief off, I again requested
Mr. Crook to accept a suit of clothes from the
number handed out, for he had, ever since com-
ing on board, been still attired in the native
costume; with this wish, after many acknow-
ledgments, he was pleased to comply:
It had been observed, that at the time when
the natives were very numerous around the ship,
then laying off Resolution Bay, some of them
would take fish, from four to six inches in
length, just as they were caught, and eat them,
beginning by first biting off the head, so on
by a mouthful at a time, until the whole was
eaten, or they had finished.
On mentioning
this to Mr, Crook, at the same time asking whe-
ther it was not customary for them to cook
their fish, he replied, if the fish was large, and
their provisions were plenty, they did cook, but
owing to their wars, and the attendant famine,
their sufferings for provisions, which were now
very scarce, had been great; concluding this to
be the case with those we had seen; adding,


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
145
that himself had been driven to so great distress
at times for food, as to do the same thing; this he
was obliged to do at the first, so soon as he had
caught the fish, or it would have been taken
from him; and added, that while eating one of
these small raw fish, he thought he had never
tasted a sweeter meal: he said it was a fact
also, that the natives, when pushed by famine,
would make use of all the art they possessed, to
get one of their enemies into their hands, for the
purposes of food, it being altogether out of his
power to put a stop to so inhuman and horrid a
custom.
May 23d. Ever since leaving the Marquesas
Islands, we have had heavy rain squalls from
the south-eastward, with calms at intervals.
At 1 P. M. had sight of the southermost island
of the Washington group, bearing W. five
leagues distant. At 3 P. M. the eastermost
island was seen in the north-east quarter, and
half an hour after, the northermost and largest
island of the group, was in sight, bearing N. W.
half W. distant about eight leagues. Steered
for the eastern end of the southermost island,
and at 9 A. M. while moving along its northern
coast, under a favorable breeze, we opened a
bay, whence several canoes, some of them very
large, others again small, came off to us. These
19


146
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
large double war canoes were similar to those
at La Christiana, especially the one which had
brought off the head chief; like it, the bows of
these were ornamented with a number of hu-
man skull bones, which Mr. Crook stated to
have belonged to their enemies, whom the chief,
the owner of the canoe, and his warriors, had
slain in battle. I had the satisfaction to find
that Mr. Crook could carry on a conversation
with this people, as fluently as with the Mar-
quesas islanders, their language being nearly
alike: they appeared to be greatly surprised, as
well as pleased, to hear Mr. Crook speaking in
their language, and were very anxious to find
out where he had “catched it,"—to make use
of their own expression,-wanting to know
where he had come from, thus to talk as one of
themselves. On his inquiring whether or no
there was a harbor up the bay, the chiefs an-
swered in the affirmative; but none of them or
the other natives could be induced to come on
board, notwithstanding there was one there
who spoke their language. Many of their ca-
noes were armed, for such I supposed they
were, from the heaps of round stones, war clubs,
and
spears,
that were in them.
We now stood with the ship into the bay, but
had scarcely got within the chops of its head-


FANNING’S VOYAGES.
147
land, by which it is formed, than we were be-
calmed, and a heavy rolling swell hove the ship
up the bay; meanwhile, we were endeavoring
to keep up a trade with the natives in their ca-
noes, giving in exchange for their products, toys,
glasses, beeds, buttons, &c.; iron they would
not accept, holding it in the most sovereign
contempt.
It did not appear that these people had ever
seen, or been visited, by a civilized being be-
fore, nor did they show that desire to obtain
iron, which all the other islanders so strongly
manifested, not being willing to receive it even
at the rate of a hatchet for a single cocoa-nut,
which a small bright button would readily pur-
chase; indeed, the bits of broken bowls, pitchers,
or crockery of any kind, which the steward still
kept on board, appeared to be far more valua-
ble in their estimation, than any other article in
our possession.
By the help of the glass, the surf was seen to
break high on the coral reef, which bounds the
shore of this bay, and on my observing to Mr.
Crook, that the ship had got hove so far up into it,
as to render it highly necessary to ascertain from
the chiefs whereabouts their harbor was, and
what was the depth of water they there had; in
answer to his inquiry, they replied, it was up at


148
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
the head of the bay, and where they hauled up
their canoes: as it respected the depth of water,
they stated that the bay had no bottom; with.
out the reef, but within the coral recf, there was
a good beach, upon which they were in the habit
of hauling their canoes. To discover this harbor
had now become an important point with us,
and not at all to be trifled with; no time was
to be lost. We therefore manned one of the
boats, for the purpose of towing the ship’s head
around, in order to head the rolling sea; and
when this was accomplished, kept her still tow-
ing out of the bay, at the same time sending an-
other armed boat to sound out the head of the
bay. In this duty she was some time engaged,
without the officer in command giving any sig-
nal, by which we could understand he had
found an anchoring spot, nor could the first boat
do any thing more than keep the ship's head
sea-ward, for as to moving her forward, it was
soon found to be impossible.
The natives were all this time entering the
bay, and a vast number in their canoes were
continually coming round its head, from other
parts of the island, some of which were gather-
ing round the sounding boat, so that in a little
while the bay was quite filled with them, espe-
cially in the immediate vicinity of the ship.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
149
I now observed by the countenance of Mr.
Crook, who was constantly near me, that there
was something which tended to make him un-
easy: nor was I long kept waiting an explana-
tion ; for whispering, he gave me to understand,
that from the conversation passing among the
natives in the several canoes, and from their ex-
clamations, he judged they were not peacefully
inclined, and as many of the canoes had ga-
thered together between the ship and the sound-
ing-boat, for the purpose, apparently, of cutting
her off on her return, it was thought to be most
prudent to raise the ship's ports, and run out
her
guns,
which had been previously charged
with a single shot. A signal was also made for
the second boat instantly to return, and for the
purpose of opening a passage for her to the ship,
a musket was discharged over the heads of the
natives in a direction to let them hear the whiz-
zing of the ball, see it strike, and then make the
water fly up; at the same time running the car-
riage guns out. The effect was as expected; for
they instantly drew back, and gave the desired
free passage for our boat, which, much to our
satisfaction, now pulled safely along side. The
natives now sounded with their conks, the war
notice, and accompanied this with a succession
of the most deafening shouts. Mr. Crook called


150
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
to some of the nearest chiefs, and counselled
them to keep at a distance from the ship, nor
suffer any one to throw a single spear, remind-
ing them of the effects they had seen the little
gun produce upon the canoes which were in
the
way
of the boat, and inquiring what they
could expect, when the fire and thunder was
let out of the big ones, but to be all destroyed,
with their island, adding, as he pointed to the
guns just run out, the captain, as they might see,
was determined to destroy them and their island,
as far as the thunder and fire from the ship could
do it. After expressing their astonishment at
such wonderful power, the ship, they said, must
certainly have come from the clouds, and very
soon after paddled off to a more respectful dis-
tance, but did not, however, cease their shout-
ing, or blowing their war conks. When some
of the nearest chiefs beheld the bright blade
of a broad-sword glittering in the sun's rays,
they declared, one to another, that that battle
axe must have come from the sun, it was so
dazzling
The officer who had been out sounding, re-
ported that with fifty fathoms of line, within a
cable's length of the reef, he had not been able
to get bottom. Finding no progress was made
with one boat's towing, the other was put at


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
151
the same duty, and our sweeps were got out to
assist them. At times, a little would be slowly
gained against the rolling swell and in draught;
then again, in a few minutes, there would come
a trio of mammoth rollers, so that in spite of all
our exertions, her headway was sometimes
stopped, and sternway given to her. The isl-
anders gathered in groups on the shore around
the bay, on the rocks of the coral reef, and
many hundreds of them still in their canoes,
were intently watching all these contrary move-
ments, and whenever the ship fell back were
sure to raise a tremendous shout, making the
bay ring again with their uproar.
After several hours spent in this laborious
yet necessary exertion, and when, by every
effort that could be made, we had been able to
gain but a little over a mile in our course, and
when the strength of our cheerful and spirited
crew was nearly exhausted, we were blessed by
a faint flaw of wind from the eastern head of
the bay; not a moment was lost in trimming
every sail to make the most of it. In a little
while she began to move at an increased rate,
and finally effected an offing in safety. This
we called Escape Bay, in consideration of our
very narrow escape therefrom.


152
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
Kind Providence had again interposed in our
behalf, in thus preserving our vessel and lives
from so painful and dangerous a situation ; and
to the Rev. Mr. Crook, who was ever attentive
in giving early notice of any newly discovered
evil intent, or movement indicating hostility on
the part of the natives, and who was ever at
my side, I am much indebted. Throughout the
whole of this trying season, the good order and
discipline of our crew were clearly manifest:
there was no murmuring of discontent, no want
of confidence in their leaders, and except the
giving and passing of necessary orders, all were
silent. To the above, together with the promp-
titude with which every duty was executed, in
my opinion is our extrication attributable. Our
ship was small, and managed comparatively
easy; but on the contrary, had she been a larger
and heavier vessel, no effort or invention of man
could have saved her, and the lives of all on
board, from that destruction which so fearfully,
threatened us. Owing to the inset, and heavy
rolling sea or swell, she would have been un-
doubtedly hove on the coral reef, and dashed
to pieces by the tremendous breakers, in less
than half the time employed by ourselves in
getting clear; the massacre of such of the


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
153
crew as should escape to land, terminating the
catastrophe.
The situation of that celebrated and much
lamented voyager, La Perouse, in his two large
frigates,* must, in all probability, have been
similar to that of ours, and no doubt was the
cause of his loss. The flaw of wind that, as-
sisted in our escape, did not, at the time, ruffle
the surface of the water over the distance of
fifty yards astern. It was very gratifying to
observe that even among the seamen, there was
an apparent consciousness that their preserva-
tion was altogether owing to the goodness of
that being who had deigned to assist them; and
as they hung around the Rev. Mr. Crook, every
honest heart seemed to wish him to declare their
heartfelt thanks to the Almighty for it.
The former impression, that no ship had ever
visited this island before ours, received addi-
tional strength from the fact that we did not
observe or meet with any iron or beads, &c.,
among the natives, neither could Mr. Crook
* The first vessel sent to the Pacific under the agency of the
author, in 1803, after a cargo of sandal wood, was of a full build,
and met this lamentable fate. All on board either perished by
drowning, or as they gained a foothold upon the rocks of the coral
reef, were massacred by the natives. This was ascertained to be
the fact from information subsequently obtained, as will be seen
by a reference to the voyage of the brig Union.
20


154
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
learn from them, in all their many conversa-
tions, that they had seen civilized beings before:
the ship formerly spoken of, must therefore
have visited another island of the group, and
not this. He had, however, procured from
some of the chiefs the name of their island, and
had written the same down in the ship's log
book : this according to their pronunciation is,
Hooapoah or Wep'oo; the name of the eastern-
most island is, Hoo-a-ho'o-na; and the northern-
most one, then in sight from the ship, and the
largest of the group, thus, Nug-go-hee-va; the
westernmost, and smallest, they called, Fet-too-
ele-va.
Our stock of water had by this time got
reduced to a very limited quantity, and imperi-
ously required that it should be recruited; but
to think of obtaining an additional supply of
so important an article at this island, in the
present hostile spirit of its natives, was entirely
out of the question.
Matters and things being thus situated, it was
thought most advisable to pass the night in
standing over for the south coast of the large
island Nuggoheeva; the ship's sails being ac-
cordingly trimmed to accomplish this object,
we stood to the north upon a wind, and at day-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
155
break were about two leagues from the south
shore of Nuggoheeva, but well towards its west
end; therefore stood in, and commenced work-
ing up along shore in search of some harbor.
During this time we were favored with a fine
beating breeze, and smooth sea.


CHAPTER X I.
TRANSACTIONS DURING OUR VISIT AT NUGGOIIEEVA IBLAND.
Unwillingness of the natives to come on board the ship.—Mode of
trading with them.-Timidity of an aged chief.—Plan to get
him on board, which succeeds.- Presentation of peace offerings.
– Visit every part of the ship with the old chief, the better to
secure his confidence, without success. This is finally obtained
by the present of a robin.-Present received from the king:-
Party sent after water.— The aged chief Tearoroo again visits
the ship, in company with the regent.-A Taboo is obtained in
answer to our application for one.—The regent's short remedy
for a small evil.–Offer of a second Taboo.—The Rev. Mr.
Crook passes a night on shore.- Invitation to visit the king ac-
cepted.--Hostages arrive on board. - Reception at landing.-
Order of march.-A singular manæuvre.—Poor steward's fright.
- Arrival at, and description of, the king's residence. The
young king, and the queen mother.-Ceremony of introduction.
- Presentation of the plate to the king.–Attendant rejoicings.-
Unexpected interruption of proceedings.-Return to the ship.-
Loss of our azimuth compass by being stolen from the cabin.-
Though broken to pieces, these are returned, through the exer-
tions of the king and regent.-A party of fifty of the ladies of
the court, attended by some of the chiefs, visit the ship.— Their
departure.—The ship leaves the bay of Paypayachee.—Disin-
clination of the regent to leave his friend.—Some description of
the people.— Their disposition and manners.—The valley of
Tiuhoy.-Remarks upon the bay of Paypayachee.
May 25th, 1798. We were employed in work-
ing the ship along shore to the eastward. When
standing upon our in shore tacks, and near to
the same, the natives would put off in one or


FANNING’S VOYAGES.
157
We now
more canoes, and come within speaking distance
of us; they appeared to be, though rather fear-
ful, a very sociable sort of folk, asking as many
questions as they saw fit, and giving answers to
our questions as well as they were able: to the
Rev. Mr. Crook's inquiry, if there was any har-
bor near to where we were, their unhesitating
reply, invariably, was yes, a very good one,
where they hauled up their canoes.
discovered that they considered every place
where their canoes could be hauled on shore as
a harbor; this must likewise have been the
meaning of the chiefs at Wepoo, and when they
said there was a good harbor, they intended to
tell us there was a good beach, where boats or
canoes could be readily drawn up; and our not
sufficiently understanding each other, was the
cause of our getting into that difficulty, and not
any intentional misleading on their part: every
place where they could haul up a canoe, they
thought was what we called a harbor.
Notwithstanding we had displayed a white
flag as the signal of peace, and as such under-
stood by the natives, and all Mr. Crook's endea-
vors to prevail upon them to venture on board,
yet it was to no purpose; that they compre-
hended what he said was plain, from the lengthy
conversations held between them; although


158
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
they were carried on at a speaking distance,
still not one would come even so near as
along side; the guns we had been careful to
run in, as well as to close the ports. From this
want of confidence, the little traffic we had was
necessarily carried on in the same distant and
inconvenient manner; whatever we had to dis-
pose of, being made fast to the end of a line,
and thrown over the stern to them, they
managed to get, and very honestly would make
fast in payment, what they conceived the same
to be worth; thus beginning and concluding
our exceedingly small business. A course of
conduct so reserved, we were much puzzled
satisfactorily to explain : it was not solely re-
stricted to this body of the natives, for the same
temper was observed among others.
At 11 A. M. when abreast of a bay, where to
all appearance we had at last found a harbor,
three canoes came off to the ship, laden with
cocoa-nuts, bread fruits, and the like articles;
yet nothing could induce the natives to come
on board, though our exertions were redoubled,
and every plausible contrivance was resorted to
for the purpose. They gave us to understand
that ours was not the first vessel they had seen;
which was confirmed by some of their company
showing a small number of beads, very inge-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
159
niously fastened to the tusk of a hog, and hand-
somely polished. As we were on the point of
hoisting out a boat, in order to examine more
particularly, whether or no a good and commo-
dious harbor was not somewhere close by, the
man on the lookout at the mast-head, called
out, that he had just at that moment, seen what
had the appearance of being a larger bay, a
little farther to the eastward : going aloft, and
taking a look at this with the glass, the pros-
pect promised a much more favorable result to
our labors, than the one we were now on the
point of examining.
We accordingly, without much ceremony of
leave taking, left the canoes, and made a board
with the ship off, in order to fetch in near to the
other bay, which was successfully accomplished.
An hour after meridian, as the ship was hove
to abreast of the mouth of this harbor, a large
canoe paddled off to meet us, from the shore, in
which was an aged chief, whose white locks
gave him a very venerable and interesting ap-
pearance; there was also in this canoe, some
thirty natives, each one being a paddler. The
old man quickly displayed a white flag, toge-
ther with a green branch: these tokens of
friendship and amity we answered in like man-
ner, by holding up a white flag, at the same


160
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
time desisting for a while from hoisting out the
boat, which we were about doing, expecting
that all the information we desired, could be ob-
tained from this old chief; but no, he was proof
against all we had to say, most likely to bring
him along side for this purpose.
Around the ship he several times paddled,
keeping at fifteen or twenty yards distance, and
taking all due caution not to come too near;
this through with, the old chief next proceeded
with giving a specimen of native oratory, the
purport of which was to present a cordial invi-
tation from the king for us to come on shore.
After waiting with the utmost patience for the
termination of this haranguing and maneuvring,
and completely tired out with staying for him
to finish, however uncourteous it might appear,
I ordered the boat to be hoisted out, and men-
tioned to the Rev. Mr. Crook, that we would
now see, if by stratagem we could not get this
aged chief on board, provided, however, that it
could be executed without any accident, or un-
pleasant occurrence; inquiring, at the same
time, whether he was willing to assist in ac-
complishing the same, by taking a seat in the
boat with the officer. To this he most readily
consented; when the officer received these direc-
tions: in the first place, to sound out the bay


FANNI NG'S VOYAGES.
161
for suitable anchoring ground, and if the canoe
should follow him, not to appear to notice her,
but so soon as he had finished sounding, to em-
brace the very first opportunity that should pre-
sent itself, and endeavor to lay his boat, which
was a remarkably quick rowing one, at once
along side of the canoe, and seizing upon the
chief, bring him instantly on board, if this could
be completed without harming him. The boat
was quickly prepared, and manned by a select
crew, the Rev. Mr. Crook taking his seat in her
along side the officer: meanwhile a conversation
was kept up between Mr. Crook and the old
chief, during which the boat put off, steering
directly for the bay: as was expected, so it
turned out, for so soon as she had gone, the
canoe followed, keeping close by her. It was
necessary for the boat, in the performance of
the duty assigned, to cross and recross the bay,
going backwards and forwards very frequently,
so that she kept gradually gaining towards the
shore; this, when the natives perceived it, in-
creased their confidence to such a degree, as
finally to bring their canoe so near as to inter-
fere with the boat's oars, Mr. Crook all the
while keeping up a friendly conversation with the
chief: matters proceeded in this familiar way until
the officer had finished his soundings, and made
21


162
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
the signal of having found a suitable anchorage;
the canoe was at this moment within ten or
twelve yards distance, which the officer observ-
ing, gave the word to the crew, who were all
ready, and in a moment the boat shot along
side the canoe; this maneuvre was executed so
promptly, as completely to surprise the natives;
not so much, however, as to prevent every man
them jumping overboard, leaving their aged
chief, who sat trembling with fear, to get out of,
or along with, this unexpected difficulty as well
as he could.
Mr. Crook soon informed him, that the cap-
tain, the head chief on board the ship, had sent
him an invitation to come there, and he would
soon be convinced that we were their friends;
adding also, a request that he would not be
alarmed, as there was no harm intended to him,
nor should he suffer the smallest injury. With
this assurance, the old chief replied, he would
go with the boat, but first handed into her a
green branch and a small pig; these, said he,
are the emblems of peace, and if they are ac-
cepted by the head chief on board the vessel,
then I shall think you are my friends. Mr.
Crook 'informed him, that we understood the
custom, and that they would be accepted; at
the same time getting into the boat, followed by


FANNI NG'S VOYAGES.
163
the chief, who, still trembling with fears and
doubts, was there seated between Mr. Crook
and the officer; these fears were in some de-
gree diverted, when in compliance with Mr.
Crook's request, he looked up and saw the ship
under easy sail steering towards them, for so
soon as the signal of her having found a suit-
able spot for anchorage was perceived by those
on board ship, we immediately bore up and
stood in towards her. As we met, the ship was
brought to, in order to receive the chief on
board, Mr. Crook requesting me to receive the
pig and green branch, the better to calm the
chief's uneasy state of mind, and pave the way
the more securely to bind his affections here-
after; accordingly on receiving him at the gang-
way, the old chief presented in the first place
the green branch, accompanying this act with
a short address; after which, doing in like man-
ner with the pig. When on deck, he insisted
upon paying homage, but such I informed him,
while raising him from this posture, and handing
him to a seat on the quarter-deck, was not the
manner of salutation when friends meet friends
in my country, and as such I hoped we had now
come together, adding, that I myself was but a
chief like himself: yet, said he, as I was given
to understand through the interpretation of Mr.


164
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
Crook, there is this difference, you came from
the thunder, in the clouds, and are therefore
more powerful than even my king.
The natives had immediately returned to
their canoe, when they found our party had left
her floating about, and paddled on after their
chief, taking the utmost care, however, not to
get too near the boat. After sending the boat
out' at a proper distance ahead, to sound the
way, we filled away on the ship, and steered in
after her, passing in between the two high, but
small, round islands, which, because they so
nearly resembled each other, we now named
the Sisters, and entering a spacious bay, hauled
up towards a beach on its eastern side, and
anchored in twelve fathoms of water, in a fine
harbor with clear ground.
The old chief, Mr. Crook, and myself, had
returned to the deck after going through all
parts of the ship where it was possible conveni-
ently to get, showing and explaining all the
uses and purposes of the different warlike ap-
paratus, the cabin, with its furniture, and in
short every thing, the more minutely, because
we were determined to leave no effort untried
that could possibly secure his confidence; yet
there we were, unsuccessful after all. The
Rev. Mr. Crook, who had noticed that the chief


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
165
seemed to have a great fancy for the robbin I
then had on, mentioned this to me: it was a
short roundabout, made of red flannel, with
tape strings of the same color. This I instantly
took off, and gave to the chief, who very speedily
made himself perfectly at home, after putting it
on; he was at once vastly elated, and appeared
quite another man. It was truly laughable to
see the old man strutting first up and down the
deck, with this great acquisition on; then
marching aft, the better to enable his attend-
ants in the canoe (who had ever since followed
on, keeping at about four or five rods distance
astern) to admire his person, thus ornamented.
They laughed heartily, and shouted for joy, at
this prodigious fine display of their chief, and
were now of a mind to be wondrously sociable.
All but two of them came at once on board,
after the chief had called to them to paddle up
and make fast to the ship, while he went on,
as well as the frequent admiration of his prize
would allow, to state who he was, what in the
goodness of his heart he would do, &c.; the sum
of all being, that he was the young king's
grand-father, and now, we should have plenty of
hogs, bread-fruit, yams, &c.
While this was going on, the canoe already
spoken of was the only one to be seen, at, in, or
2
.


166
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
about the bay; but at this moment, two large
canoes were seen coming from towards the
western part of the bay, and as they came
along side were found to have brought with
them four fat hogs, some bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts,
yams, bananas, sugar-cane, &c., as a present from
the young king. In return for this, there was
sent to him two axes, some hatchets, chisels,
looking-glasses, bright buttons, and beads; and
to our new friend, the old chief, who took it in
charge, we made a present of a hatchet, knife,
some pieces of iron hoop, some fish hooks, nails,
and beads; not forgetting the two chieftains
who had brought the king's gift, giving each
something suitable.
We were at this time much in want of fresh
water; it became therefore, highly important
for us to be looking around to see whether any
could be obtained at this place. On Mr. Crook's
asking the aged chief where we could find a
supply, he replied that the “biggest” water was
near the king's village, off towards the western
part of the bay, and if we were so disposed, he
was perfectly willing to go along, and show
whereabouts it was. This generous offer we
of course readily accepted: after having previ-
ously furled the ship's sails, and putting into
the boat two small iron-bound casks, together


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
167
with some small matters for trading purposes,
the party then started off, the Rev. Mr. Crook
willingly accompanying them, with the old
chief in his canoe keeping along side the boat.
On their return with the casks filled with fresh
water, they reported the place where it was
obtained to be a beautiful small stream; though
when the casks were filled and bunged, they
were obliged to swim them through the surf
to the boat, which lay at a grapnel, it being
thought unsafe, in consequence of the rough-
ness and rocky shore, to attempt a'landing with
her. The natives they found to be very friendly;
and many, anxious to do something, readily
volunteered to swim the casks off to the boat.
A great many were constantly bathing in the
river: this was the case around the ship; some
swimming a little, then seizing hold of some
part of the vessel to rest for a fresh start, look-
ing, as they hung around her sides, much like a
flock of black-birds upon a tree; others in ca-
noes, some near by, but more farther off, were
quite content with this outward view of so
strange a craft, keeping their tongues going at
a merry rate all the while, each one anxious to
tell all he knew, and more too. The current of
intimacy between us, was now as difficult to be
stopped, as it was formerly to be acquired; and


168
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
ants upon
in our present situation, it was thought most
prudent to permit only such of the natives to
come on board, as were known to be the attend-
the several chiefs.
With a view to enter into an arrangement by
which our ship's water might be filled, the Rev.
Mr. Crook proceeded in the ship's boat to the
shore, in order to find out our friend, the aged
chief, and invite him to return with him; for
from this friend we hoped to obtain a taboo to
be put on in the morning. The invitation was
not only accepted, but the old chief (whose
name for the first time we now learned to be
Tearoroo) came accompanied by Toohoorebooa,
the regent chief, and uncle to the king, bringing
along with them a second present, consisting of
hogs, yams, bread-fruit, bananas, sugar-cane,
tarroos, &c. which the young king Paeroroo had
sent. "They refused, however, to receive aught
in return, giving as a reason, that the king did
not wish it, for he had plenty of such articles as
he had already sent, to spare. Toohoorebooa
now requested to exchange names with me;
and Tearoroo joined in the wish, the regent
concluding, when we had thus exchanged, with
observing,“ now we are true friends, this in-
troductory ceremony being got through with,
Mr. Crook went on to state what our wants and


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
169
desires were: that having many casks to be
filled with water, we could not do it, because his
people were so much in our way as not to allow
us to make any despatch in filling, or to get
them off when filled. Here he interrupted our
complaints, with the request that we would
knock them in the head if they did not keep
out of the way in future. This summary mode
of procedure, Mr. Crook informed him, could
not be consented to, and went on to request
as a particular favor, that he would consent to
put the river and bay, during the following day,
under a taboo; stating as a reason for this, that
the men from the ship did not like to fill their
casks when the natives in great numbers were
bathing above them in the river. This the
regent consented to do at sunrise, as well as to
send messengers up the valley and have the
river tabooed up to its source; but added his
desire to remove this when the sun went down
to the tops of the western trees, so that the
people might bathe before dark. This provision
it would have been very ungenerous for us not
to have agreed to: we therefore, of course, im-
mediately assented to it, stipulating also to
notify him at the time when we should have
finished.
This taboo or restriction went even so far as to
22


170
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
prohibit all natives from swimming in and about
the bay, forbidding the use of their canoes, un-
less our permission was first obtained, excepting
always the king's. The regent was, in addition
to this, to furnish a sufficient number of good
swimmers to take the water casks to the shore,
and after they were full, to retake them through
the surf to the boat.
After completing this arrangement, the most
perfect understanding subsisting between us,
these friendly chiefs, at just about sunset took
their departure; and all the natives, who had
many of them been a great deal of the time
much in our way, in compliance with these
chiefs' orders, followed suit; a good riddance
We then proceeded to make every
preparation for the more certain getting through
our watering business in one day if possible.
On the passage, and at the same time when
we had layed our set of running rigging, we
had also layed a quantity of nine-thread rattling
rope, for a boarding netting: this, when fitted
to its place, going all around the ship, and
triced up to the tops, jib stay, &c. was twelve
feet in height above our railing, and was a
means of safety against surprise during the
darkness of the nights. Yet as a still farther
measure of security, one sentry was placed at the
for us.


FANNING’S VOYAGES.
171
heel of the bowsprit, one on each side, abreast
of the fore and main masts, and one on the taff-
rail, who called out, commencing with this last,
every thirty minutes, “ All's well!" an officer on
the quarter-deck having charge of all. Thus I
considered we had taken every possible precau-
tion to guard our little ship against surprise,
This order of things, our guns charged with a
single shot and a bag of musket balls, all ready
and run out, was constantly kept up during our
stay here.
The following morning at sunrise, having pre-
pared every thing the night previous, as was
before stated, sent the boat to the shore with a
raft of empty casks. The Rev. Mr. Crook vo-
lunteering to attend on shore, where, from the
friendly disposition evinced by the chiefs, he
was fully satisfied not the least danger was to
be apprehended; the cooper and two of the
hands were sent to fill and bung the casks. On
their coming to the mouth of the river, the
swimmers which the chiefs were to furnish,
were found, according to agreement, all ready
to go to work; they had been some little time
waiting for the boat, and now that she had
come, the watering was immediately com-
menced. The taboo, it was also to be per-


172
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
ceived, was in full operation, as not a native
was seen in the river.
Several of these swimmers, in their willing-
ness to render assistance, and to please their
new friends, after obtaining permission from
those in authority, did swim a cask off to the
ship, a distance certainly not less than three
quarters of a mile, receive a board nail as
ample compensation, and then swim back to
the shore for another cask, with as much spirit
and earnestness as if they had a more important
prize depending upon their exertions. So unre-
mitting were the efforts of our friends, that by
5 P. M. we were abundantly supplied with fresh
water, a quantity sufficient to last during our
passage to Canton.
Having thus secured a good stock of one of
the chiefest articles necessary for our long voy-
age, the regent chief Toohoorebooa was accord-
ingly so notified, and the taboo forthwith
removed. In a very little while after this re-
storation to one of their rights and privileges,
of which for the time being they had been on
our account deprived, multitudes of the natives
surrounded our ship; some in canoes, others
swimming or floating along side like a shoal of
porpoises, bringing along with them figs, fowls,
bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, yams, tarroos, sugar-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
173
cane, and the like.
So many customers, of
course, made as much business for us just then,
as we could conveniently attend to; bits and
scraps of old iron were in great demand, and
had now as much value attached to them as
ever they had: these, with porter or wine
bottles, were taken unhesitatingly in payment,
and were held in much higher estimation than
aught else we possessed. Sometimes the na-
tives were gathered in such numbers around
the vessel, hanging to her sides wherever they
could hold on, as to give our little craft quite a
rank heel, waiting or rather seemingly deter-
mined not to let us forget they were there for
their turns, and incessantly jabbering at a rate
sufficient to turn one's head.
Our friend, Toohoorebooa, the regent, ac-
companied by Tearoroo, our first and most aged
acquaintance, came on board to make a visit,
but more especially to inquire how we were sa-
tisfied with the manner in which the watering
business was performed. On expressing my
acknowledgments for their kindness, in thus se-
curing to us the assistance by which we had
been so greatly furthered therein, they were
quite pleased, as well as to hear we were satis-
fied with the quantity and quality, and in con-
clusion offered, if we wished it, to put the taboo


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
175
their tribe; every where they would be found
to be the same in disposition and friendly feel-
ing; but, continued he, they are acquainted
with the usual custom of giving hostages, and
will most cheerfully give up their chief men as
such, rather than you should not come; and
then mentioned, that he himself was greatly in-
clined to comply with their pressing solicita-
tions to remain with them, as expressed to him
while on shore during the day. To this portion
of his remarks, I replied, that from the brotherly
feelings and attachment subsisting between us,
ever since he first came on board, not to make
any mention of the great service he had ren-
dered during this period, would make the sepa-
ration rather hard, yet I was constrained to
admit, that a correct perception of, or devotion
to, the duty incumbent upon him as a mission-
ary,
in which cause it will be remembered he
was engaged, ought now to govern him in his
decision : however, the better to satisfy himself
as to the friendliness of their intentions, and to
ascertain what confidence could be placed in
them, he concluded to pass this night amongst
them on shore.
Early the next morning he returned on board,
Toohoorebooa, the regent, being in company,
his mind perfectly satisfied, as it respected the


176
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
í
purity of their desires, and also that this was
the field in which, for a short time at least, he
had been appointed to labor, in a cause, for the
complete and triumphant success of which all
good citizens and honest men must raise their
most ardent prayers.
From a custom held sacred amongst the na-
tives, their young king was this moon tabooed
from going upon the water, and with the queen
mother, and other persons connected with the
royal family, was very anxious to have a visit
from the head chief of the ship at his royal
house. A visit from such a person, Mr. Crook
was of opinion would be of great service to him
after our departure, by the influence a connec-
tion thus set forth would give him.
It was not a want of inclination to render all
the assistance that lay in my power, to advance
whatever might be suggested for the future
good of the natives, that made me thus tardy in
accepting such repeated invitations, but I did
not conceive myself justifiable, or clear from
censure, in detaining the ship, sacrificing my
owners' time and interest, and that of my offi-
cers and crew, as well as my own, in gadding
or roving about the country; it was not what I
had been sent to do, and therefore was not
right. I, however, replied, that could any pos-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
177
sible advantage result from the visit, or could it
be the means of insuring any benefit to those
who might hereafter arrive at this island, I was
willing to do whatever prudence might point
out. Mr. Crook then stated his having over-
heard much of what the chiefs had said, while
he was on shore, and from this it was evident
that Tearoroo, the aged chief, and the brother
of the regent, were to remain on board as hos-
tages, until my return.
return. With this arrangement,
Mr. Crook thought it was best to agree, leaving
directions with the commanding officer to keep
them constantly in view, admitting but one at a
time from the cabin, on deck; meanwhile, to
the chiefs, he would state the necessity for their
remaining in the cabin during our absence.
After this, I consented to go on shore, and
mentioned 1 P. M. as the most suitable hour for
me to make this visit to the king, directing the
colors the while to be set on the ship. When
Mr. Crook informed Toohoorebooa, the regent,
of this arrangement, and that this was the cause
of our setting the colors on the ship, he appeared
to be very much pleased, exclaiming, Vahvee!
Vahvee !* and immediately arose, taking both my
hands, and giving what is considered the most
Signifying, Welcome! Welcome!
23


178
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
friendly mode of salutation amongst them, viz.,
a rather severe pressing of his nose against
mine, concluding the whole with saying, that he
was now happy, and would right away go on
shore to make the king, the king's mother, and
friends also, happy, by giving them this accept-
ance of their invitation.
Mr. Crook next suggested the propriety of
preparing a medal of some kind to be suspended
around the young king's neck; this he thought
would produce a good effect. We, therefore,
took a new bright metal plate, marking on it
the ship’s name, the name of the place and
country she belonged to, viz., port of New York,
United States of America, and finally where she
came from; then making a couple of holes in
the rim, through which we rove a yard of wide
crimson ribbon, fastening the two ends together,
the better to have it hang nicely round the
neck, and rest on the breast; the whole we
wrapped up carefully in a paper, so that no one
should see it before it was presented to his
youthful majesty. We had finished this as Tea-
roroo and the chieftain, brother to the regent,
came on board, and stated the king had sent
them to be hostages, until our return to the ship.
At 1 P. M. accompanied by the Rev. W. P.
Crook, the steward going along and bringing


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
179
the medal, we put off from the ship, attended
by a numerous company of the islanders in their
canoes, and landed on a beach on the eastern
side of the bay, where were assembled the re-
gent and a number of other chiefs, together with
any quantity of the natives; by this company
we were received on landing. Two chieftains of
the second rank gave their attendance upon the
Rev. Mr. Crook and myself, and as soon as the
order of procession was duly arranged, the
whole moved forwards, preceded by Toohoore-
booa, the regent, who wore on this ceremonious
occasion, a most beautiful head-dress, made
principally from the plumes of the tropic bird,
intermixed with the feathers of other birds, the
whole making a very splendid article; he had
on also a breast-plate of the mother-of-pearl
shell. Thus arrayed, he took the lead, which
station he kept during the march. A row of
eight chiefs, bearing long, black, and yellow
rods, or canes, made of hard wood, having on
one end bunches of human hair, marched on
each side of us, while close behind us, came six
chiefs in double files, and after all these, a vast
multitude of the natives came slowly on in dou-
ble Indian file, paying, however, no very great re-
spect to their dressings. The march was around
the north shore of the bay, in a direction for the


180
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
young king's residence, and towards this we
moved slowly, coming first to a small rivulet,
and shortly after to the river where the ship's
water had been filled the day previous. Just
before arriving at the first, I found myself still
moving, or rather moved, along in quite a com-
fortable manner, for without giving the slightest
intimation of their intention, two of the natives
had formed a sort of a seat, by clinching their
hands together, then by striking the inner or
hinder part of the knee, one is instantly made
to set down on their hands; there is some risk
of falling backwards, on receiving a blow of this
kind, for rather than it should fail in making
the knees bend, they give a pretty severe one.
All this was so that no inconvenience should be
felt by us in crossing these streams, or in getting
our feet wet. I had received from the Rev. Mr.
Crook a hint that possibly the natives would
thus conduct themselves, and therefore was on
my guard; not so the steward, poor fellow; he
was most sadly frightened at being thus unce-
remoniously treated, and as a small return for
the favor, gave them a most tremendous scream:
from his station, which was a little behind us,
he had had a fair view of the human hair which
topped the rods of those chiefs at our side, and
in all probability was thinking of the barbarous


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
181
custom, which some of the South Sea islanders
had, of murdering and eating their foes, when
he was thus unwittingly seated, and per-
haps he now conceived that his own hair was
to decorate some other rod; but be this as it
may, the effect of the scream was to make him-
self the laughing stock of all the natives, for all
eyes had been instantly turned upon him, and
raised as he was in the world, his countenance
still made it very evident that he was much
alarmed. This complete success of their ma-
næuvre, pleased the natives prodigiously, and
was the source of a great deal of laughter at
the poor steward's expense, till some one good
naturedly told him not to be frightened, but to
join in the laugh, if he wished them to cease.
After getting on the other side of this stream,
we were set down very softly, to proceed as
other folks do; the same piece of service being
again rendered to us, when we came to the
larger stream: the young king's abode was still
some distance farther to the westward, and we
accordingly continued our march. On the
route, passing several groups of the islanders,
who had been gathered thus together to see a
sight so very unusual; these invariably fell flat
on their faces, and remained in this position,
until so much of the procession as were before
1


182
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
the chiefs bearing the rods, including these also,
had passed; they then rose, and came along or
not, as they saw fit. We also noticed several
groves of the valuable bread fruit and cocoa-
nut trees. Around the bodies of some of the
first mentioned, there were bundles of the coarse
grass carefully wound, and on inquiring, what
the object was in thus making a distinction be-
tween them, I was informed, that whenever the
tree is so marked, all who belong to the district
of a chief wherein there are any such, have a
right to use as much as they please of the fruit;
but, on the contrary, when the trees are with-
out this distinguishing mark, they are in effect
tabooed, or not to be molested: not a native
could, upon any consideration, be induced to go
to one of these and pluck its fruit. So great is
their reverence for these simple laws, that they
obey them with the strictest exactness; even a
hatchet could not tempt any to get me fruit
from an unmarked tree.
The king's dwelling, was situated in the cen-
tre of a grove of bread fruit trees, having imme-
diately in front of it, cocoa and palm trees, very
handsomely arranged in rows, while on the out-
skirts, and towards the sea, there is an acre or
more of very handsome grass, forming a beau-
tiful fore ground for the whole, and completing


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
183
a view truly beautiful. The house was some
eighty feet in length, by twenty in width: the
walls were formed by placing rows of posts at
equal distances from each other, both in front
and rear, having a roof of the palm leaf, thrown
over a stout sized ridge pole, and rafters of what
appeared to be the bamboo, the whole being di-
vided into four grand apartments of about twenty
feet square, by means of thick mats, running
from one long wall to the other, thus dividing
the building equally. The two rooms at each
end, are again equally divided, making six
apartments in the mansion, the four on the end
for lodging rooms. The floor of the entire
building was of faced stone, and carpeted with
mats of a great deal finer texture, than those
hung for the dividing the body of the building
into the different apartments. Extending the
whole length of the front of the building, there
were four rows of seats of faced stone, which
answered the purpose of steps, while at the same
time they were of so great breadth, that when
seated on the uppermost, you could place your
feet upon the next, without any inconvenience
to those who are sitting there, and when well
filled, look exactly as do our usual places of as-
semblies, those in the rear somewhat more ele-
vated than those in front, the floor being on a


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FANNING'S VOYAGES.
level with the uppermost seat. Over this flight
of seats was a thatched roof, twelve feet or so
in width, having that part nearest the house, by
some means or other, fastened to the lower bor-
der of the covering to the main building, while
the outer side was supported by eight neatly
made posts, placed at distances of eight feet
from each other.
Before this royal abode our procession at
length made its appearance, having, although
not more than a mile distant from the landing,
been something like an hour in getting to it, in
consequence of several set speeches made by the
chiefs, of which we could not comprehend a
word, and the arranging, and re-arranging, of
the natives in an orderly manner. Marching
with all due measure of time, directly towards
the front, where, on the flight of seats, attended
by at least two hundred of the ladies of her
court, sat the queen mother, a large corpulent
woman, of about fifty years of age; close by her
side was the young king, a very handsome,
good looking, stout, and round limbed young
man, of about fourteen years of age, possessing
a striking and pleasing countenance, open and
graceful manners, and an address at once easy,
and bespeaking him to be of royal parentage.


186
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
the lowest one, was taken by Toohoorebooa,
the regent, who immediately directed a mat to
be placed before him and between his feet, for
the accommodation of the steward. Directly
behind us on the highest seat, sat three young
females, to whom the queen mother was pleased
to introduce me; giving me to understand,
through the interpretation of the Rev. Mr.
Crook, that they were her daughters, sisters to
his majesty the young king. Upon being intro-
duced, they all answered vahvee, vahvee, wel-
come, welcome, accompanying this with a
graceful movement of the head and hand.
The queen mother then proceeded with the
introduction of every one of the other ladies,
cominencing with the wife of the regent, who
was seated at the right hand of our friend Mr.
Crook. These were severally called, and as
called, introduced; each giving the same smile
of welcome, and movement with the head, as
the princesses had given. The queen mother
acting as spokesman for all the company,
making a vast many inquiries as to whether the
ladies of my country had plenty of fine cloth,
as well as whether they had plenty of good
cocoa-nut oil, and the like, to all of which im-
portant questions, suitable answers were given,
1


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
187
the assembly meanwhile listening with the
most profound attention.
An hour or more had been passed in this kind
of chat, when, being somewhat thirsty, I ven-
tured to mention my desire for a drink of water
to the Rev. Mr. Crook. So soon as the young
king understood the purport of this conversa-
tion, as explained to him by Mr. Crook, he
instantly despatched an attendant in quest of
the wished for refreshment. The man soon
returned, bringing it, in a cocoa-nut shell curi-
ously wrought and figured, which he handed to
the young king : after drinking a little, his ma-
jesty presented the same to me; upon tasting, I
found it to be a tartish mineral water, and
therefore handed it to Mr. Crook, with the
request that he would try it; after so doing,
he observed that it was indeed mineral, but the
first sample he had seen or tasted, at the same
time learning, upon inquiring of the young
king, that it had been procured in the moun-
tains; the regent also remarking that it was
from a spring up in the mountains, and was
much liked by both the queen mother and the
young king. To me, however, it was not the
thing : I therefore requested Mr. Crook to say
to his majesty, that the milk of a young cocoa-
nut would be equally as acceptable. Forth-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
189
was turned, first upon the steward, as he busied
himself, preparing to pass the piece of plate to
the Rev. Mr. Crook. This gentleman, after
taking off the paper in which it was wrapped,
handed the same to myself. I then arose, and
turning to the young king, gently slipped the
ribbon over his head, and placed the bright
plate upon his breast : Mr. Crook, in a loud
tone, at the same time explaining that this was
presented as a proof of our friendship; in con-
clusion, turning and making his respects to the
queen mother, who, royal dame, was quite
overcome by this great acquisition of wealth
for her son, tears following each other as she
grasped his hand in her exceeding great joy; yet,
not forgetting, however, all the while to move
the head and hand in token of her approbation
and thankfulness. The three sisters were lean-
ing or hanging during this, on the shoulders of
the king, the better to have a good sight of so
invaluable an article, and every one, in exta-
sies, was continually crowding around their
monarch to see and touch the dazzling present,
keeping up the while, women like, a most asto-
nishing clatter, in evidence, I suppose, of their
unbounded admiration for the gift; to complete
the scene of confusion, in the exuberance of
his joy, the regent chief must needs take me in


190
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
his arms, give we a glorious hug, and then seat
me on his knees : add to this the heat that so
great and compact a crowd produced, and it
presents a situation that I have no very great
wish ever to be caught in again. However, at
last content with thus showing off his great
love and friendship, the regent let me go, and
willingly complied with a request expressed
through the Rev. Mr. Crook, to have something
like order and silence restored amidst the as-
semblage, in order that we might speak to their
youthful king. To bring about this revolution
was not the work of a moment; for some fifteen
minutes, or thereabouts, had expired, before it
was affected. Gradually the talking subsided
into a low humming of many voices, and finally
it was sufficiently still for us to proceed with
the matter in hand. This we then recommenced,
by inquiring of the king if he was pleased to
accept the royal badge as a token of our friend-
ship for him. He answered, he readily received
this as a mark of our good disposition, which
also the regent Toohoorebooa farther con-
firmed after whispering something to him, and
the queen mother, by saying he would answer
for the king's accepting it as a token of the
greatest value ; at the same time exchanging
names with me for life, promising that all ships,


FANNI NG'S VOYAGES.
191
coming from the nation to which I belonged,
whose commanders might hereafter arrive at
and visit their harbor, should be treated as their
best and dearest friends, as well as supplied
with as many hogs and as much bread-fruit as
they should wish. In this manner he was going
on to explain how he would exert himself to
make their reception the more welcome, when
farther proceedings were stopped, by an old
little dowdy of a woman, attended by a couple
of strapping great natives, who came rushing
without any respect into the presence of their
sovereign, dragging along with them by a rope,
a large sow. The animal, it was evident,
was of her mistress' way of thinking; for to
her squealing, the old woman was adding her
continual call, lest we should forget she was
there, “otee booaugah,” otee booaugah," an
expression meaning,“ see the fat hog.” The
clamor made at the presentation of the piece
of plate, was a trifle, to this ado.
Directly up in front, on the green, came these
four animals, the old woman putting the ques-
tion, without any hesitation, whether I would
accept of her sow. Of course, I could do no
less than answer in the affirmative ; and with
equal abruptness she next wished to know
should it be sent on board the ship, whether į
(6


192
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
would give her in return a glass bottle. I told
her not to be at all uneasy on this head, for she
might safely depend upon receiving the glass
bottle, according to agreement. The dame now
appeared to be much pleased, and turned away,
giving her two attendants orders to lead the
sow off; but suddenly recollecting herself, she
would first know how I would like to have it
sent on board, whether it should be baked first,
or sent alive. Not being well enough ac-
quainted with their mode of baking, I chose
the last : thus at once terminating a transaction
with the only business character I had met with
in these parts, and any further speech-making,
either by the king, queen mother, or their visit-
ors, this day, at least.
I learned, upon inquiry, that this old woman
was no less a personage than the wife of our
first and aged friend, Tearoroo, at that time one
of the hostages on board our ship, and pre-
suming upon the fact of her being the young
king's grandmother, she had in manner as afore
described, attended to her own interests, to the
complete annoyance and discomfiture of the
other affairs. While we were thus employed
with, and entertained by, this royal company, a
little distance off, yet in open view, at a small
palisaded place, one of the natives had been un-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
193
ceasingly, from the time of our coming here, and
was till we left, engaged in dancing their friendly
dance, usual on such occasions.
He was a very
handsome strait limbed native, and dressed in a
gaudy suit of painted mats, which, as well as
his turban, was trimmed off with sundry fine
feathers, in order to add to their beauty.
It was now time for us to be thinking about
returning to the ship, but before doing this, I
desired the Rev. Mr. Crook to present the queen
mother and her court, one and all, with an in-
vitation to come and visit the ship the following
day. With this she said she was not able, to
her great regret, to comply, being, as well as the
young king, tabooed from going on the water
during this moon, saying, whenever this was ex-
pired, she would most gladly come : neverthe-
less, rather than our visit should be unreturned,
her three daughters, together with the other
ladies, or at least a large proportion of them,
would come on the afternoon of the next day.
We then prepared to take leave of this peo-
ple, but were first introduced to every indivi-
dual present.
This office the queen mother
was pleased to perform herself; nor were the
females at all willing to be passed by, or
slighted, but each came forward, in regular
order, to be presented by the queen mother, and
25


194
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
with each we were obliged to touch noses-a
most uncourtly sort of ceremony,
in
my opinion
-and one which occupied in its performance at
least half an hour. The queen mother and the
young king appeared to be greatly affected at
our departure, and the latter especially, as he
held me by the hand, begged that I would stay
with them many moons (months). This tedious
form of civility at leave taking, which we had
very passively endured, being finally concluded,
we took up our return march for the ship. The
same order of procession as was observed on
coming to the assemblage, was now retained in
going back.
Seeing the steward carrying my fowling-
piece, which was loaded with some small shot,
the regent was curious to know what it was
used for, and whether it was a war instrument.
In answer to his several inquiries, Mr. Crook
informed him, that it could send forth very loud
thunder, and also fire, which would kill a native;
or any living creature which might be in its way.
It very fortunately happened, that just at the
moment of our embarking, a flock of small gulls
were discovered flying along; and on noticing
them, the regent wished to have this power
proved upon them: as they came over our heads,
I took aim, fired, and very happily succeeded in


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
195
bringing down one of the number, several of the
shot having taken effect. The chief took the
bird
up,
and examined it very carefully, noticing
where it was wounded, and the blood as it is-
sued from these wounds, observing, very sagely,
as he finished, that "the fire had gone clear
through and killed it.” This proof of our power
I hoped would have a very good and favorable
effect, as tending to lead them to have a respect
for those who possessed such wondrous means
of destroying whatever they wished.
Upon our arrival at the beach, our boat in
charge of an officer, was waiting for, and quickly
conveyed us on board ship, where the two hostage
chiefs had been quite contented during our ab-
sence, and had remained in the cabin all the
while. To Tearoroo, the aged chief, I handed
the glass bottle, the same being according to
agreement made with his spouse, as she had
been attentive in fulfilling her part, in payment
for the booaugah (hog) on board. A little be-
fore sunset, two large canoes came along side,
laden with eight large and fat hogs, some pigs,
fowls, yams, bread fruit, &c., a joint present
from the queen mother and the king. This
came totally unexpected by me, and must be
considered as an 'evidence of the firm establish-
ment of the friendly feeling and good under-


196
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
standing subsisting between us, confirming us
in our belief, that a favorable impression had
been made on their minds; it was also a kind
of voucher that our good and highly esteemed
friend, the Rev. W. P. Crook, would be well
cared for after our departure, as well as such of
my fellow-countrymen as should hereafter stop
at this harbor for supplies. As an additional
proof of their disinterestedness, the regent, who
had come along with the present, could not be
by any means persuaded to receive any thing in
return, not even for himself, saying, that by so
doing, he was sure he would wound the feelings
of the young king and his mother.
The following morning, the ship was sur-
rounded by a number of large and small canoes,
in which there were many hundred of the na-
tives. With these, and several chiefs and at-
tendants, on the ship's deck, we were doing a
pretty brisk trade, as a plunge was heard, fol-
lowed by the sentry at the stern calling out,
that a native had jumped out of the cabin win-
dow, having something with him which he very
carefully held to his breast by one arm. We
immediately mustered at our quarters, and an
officer was directed to ascertain what was miss-
ing. This was found to be the azimuth com-
pass, which had been left standing on the after


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
197
locker, near the windows. The chiefs and na-
tives now began to be alarmed, and commenced
leaving the ship: the regent, too, happened to be
on board at the time, and while the Rev. Mr.
Crook made known our loss to him, and the im-
portance the article thus taken was to us, also
informed him, that neither himself, or the chief
his brother, could be permitted to leave the
ship, however unpleasant and painful such pro-
ceedings might be, until the compass was re-
turned. He answered, it should be brought
back, and forøthis purpose despatched an under
chief, one of his attendants, to the shore after it.
Thinking, meanwhile, that it would be good
policy to show forth the effect produced by our
fire-arms, I requested Mr. Crook to call the re-
gent's attention to the quarter-board, which was
perfectly sound, then taking a small pocket-pis-
tol, loaded with a single ball, I discharged it,
the ball of course making a hole through the
board. This, he was given to understand,
would have been the case had it been shot at a
Mr. Crook, as he mentioned this, also
calling to his recollection the gull which he
had so closely inspected the evening previous;
yet that they might see whether the captain
could destroy them, together with their village,
and even their island, he would fire off one of
man.


198
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
the big guns. Accordingly, after drawing the
shot from one of the carriage guns, the piece
was pointed towards the shore, and discharged.
The report considerably alarmed the natives, and
for some little time they were the very pictures
of fear and terror, listening very attentively to
the echo as it was repeated from the moun-
tains; the regent alone venturing to observe,
that he heard it break the rocks and tear up
the trees on the mountains. This remark
increased their alarm to such a degree, as
to cause them to ask Mr. Crook to beg the cap-
tain would not destroy their valley; but know-
ing that he would understand me, I thought
proper to give an evasive answer to this re-
quest, supposing that to appease me they would
the sooner return the lost compass. Every
islander now left the vessel, with the exception
of the two captive chiefs and their immediate
attendants. One of these being also a' chief,
the regent requested and obtained permission
to send him on shore in one of his remaining ca-
noes, in order if possible to hasten the returning
of the compass. An hour was passed in this state
of alternate hoping and doubting, before the two
chiefs came back with the stolen article; it was
broken into a number of pieces, as was also the
glass and box; after some time and labor spent


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
199
in matching the pieces and putting them toge-
ther, all was found except the vane; this was
told the regent, and he instantly made inquiries
of his messengers concerning it, from which it
appeared, that the native who had taken the
vane, had gone a long way up the mountain,
but that several had been sent after him, and
the king, added the regent, has pledged his
word, and so do I mine, that it shall be returned
in the morning.
Every effort appeared to have been made, that
lay in their power, towards restoring our lost
compass, by both the king and his chieftains; I
thought it was therefore time to renew the good
understanding which had been thus temporarily
broken in upon, and as there was no remedy for
our loss, the natives in their ignorance having
broken the compass to pieces, we were obliged
to make the best of it as it was; taking the re-
gent and his brother, therefore, by the hands, I
expressed a hope that now our friendship and
confidence in each other, if possible, would be
strengthened, inasmuch as their exertions to
secure and restore our stolen property, clearly
proved that they were not at all concerned in,
or had even countenanced, the theft, but which
we now found had been committed by one of
the bad men of their nation : although our


200
FANNÍ NG'S VOYAGES.
friendship had been disturbed by the occur-
rence, yet I requested him to say to the king, that
my attachment for his majesty was increased
by the interest he had taken in the affair. All
this pleased the 'regent, and early the next
morning he came again on board, bringing along
the missing vane, saying, he had caught the
thief, and had him in safe keeping, wishing
to know whether I would not like to have him
knocked in the head at once; this was a mode
somewhat more severe and expeditious for pu-
nishing the poor fellow, than I cared to follow.
I told him no, but added, that if he or any of
his friends, the chiefs, should see the thief on
board or near the ship again, and would let me
know it, I expected then to be able to punish
him more according to my own notion. This
ended the matter and restored harmony and
confidence again between all parties. Again
the natives came on board, and again trade was
in full operation.
At eleven o'clock this day, the chiefs with
Mr. Crook left the ship and went on shore, to
assist the ladies of the land in paying their ap-
pointed visit. The better to honor said visit,
our colors were all set, previous to their going
away. Somewhere about two o'clock in the
afternoon, which was the appointed hour,-nor


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
201
were these ladies so long in making their toilets
as those of my native land, making a reasonable
comparison between the two operations of
lacing, &c., and their rubbing on an extra
quantity of cocoa oil for the occasion, for within
five minutes of the hour appointed, their escort
found them ready,-a rare thing at home. Our
boat was sent to lend a hand, if needful, but
this was not the case, as several of their largest
canoes were shortly to be seen paddling on to-
wards us, and in a few minutes, fifty of the
dames of the court were, without much difficulty,
got on board, all duly oiled and perfumed, and
suitably attired in their snow white muslin like
dresses, and turbans or head ornaments, attended
too by a goodly proportion of chiefs, Toohoore-
booa, the regent chief, at the head. Every thing
that might be a temptation, had been removed to
a secret place, and those articles of a more porta-
ble nature, were placed under lock and key, so
that we were enabled to give free permission to
visit and inspect all parts of the ship, without
any apprehension of being the losers by our
courtesy. The wife of the regent performing a
like office for the females, which the husband
did for the men, a sort of director-general, took
the lead, attended by the three sisters of the
king, their conduct throughout being very de-
26


202
FANNING’S VOYAGES.
corous, frequently stopping to know the names
of different things, their uses, and all about
them. I embraced the opportunity thus offered,
for making an arrangement with the three prin-
cesses, and agreeing with them for three dresses
and turbans like those they wore on this visit;
Mr. Crook, on their return to the shore, showing
how to fasten them with pins, so that their
shape and form could be retained until they
were delivered into the hands of our ladies in
New York, which we did on our return. The
idea pleased these women very much, and
among other of their inquiries, they wished to
know if our ladies would walk about with
them, and wear them in company, and after-
wards make many more like them. (This cloth
is made from the bark of a tree, and by being
stạined, is of a variety of colors; yellow and
white are the most prominent, chiefly the latter.)
We paid every attention, and endeavored to
please these good hearted people, by all the
means in our power, and when they had finished
viewing the various arrangements of the ship,
with many of which they were greatly asto-
nished, we gave a finish to the whole, by dis-
playing what in their estimation was our riches,
a general assortment of such articles as ribbons,
looking-glasses, buttons, beads, scissors, needles,


FANNI NG'S VOYAGES.
203
&c.; the general exclamation on beholding
these, being, Motakee! etee Motakee! “Good,
see, very good! or beautiful.”
By the assistance of our excellent friend Mr.
Crook, a present had been prepared for, and
was now presented to each of the females, the
three sisters taking with them one for their
mother, the whole party going off, after this,
apparently very much delighted to their homes.
Having mentioned to the Rev. Mr. Crook that
my intention on the following day was to trade
for provisions, hogs, &c., and the day after that
to sail, I at the same time made a tender of my
services, provided he had fully determined to
remain behind, to take any letters which he
wished to send home. He accordingly, having
pen, ink, paper, and every convenience at his
service, prepared, and entrusted to my care, a
packet of letters for the society in London.
This packet, on our arrival at New York, was
forwarded to its destination.
The report of our intended departure in a
day or two, as mentioned by Mr. Crook on his
return to the shore, spread rapidly among the
islanders; the result of which was, that the
next day there was more business than sufficed
Towards sundown, the regent chief, Tea-
roroo, in company, came along side in their
us.


204
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
canoe, bringing several fat hogs, fowls, &c., the
same being a present from the young king.
In return for this, and to each of these chiefs,
for whom I could feel nothing less than the
strongest attachment, I made up an assortment
of axes, hatchets, knives, and fish-hooks, which
was fully satisfactory to them.
With my esteemed friend, the Rev. gentle-
man, I then divided my wardrobe; and the
better to insure to this truly Christian man, the
respect of the natives, added a fowling-piece,
with a suitable stock of ammunition, as also a
lot of axes, cutlery, toys, &c. for trading pur-
poses; a secretary, paper, quills, ink, penknives,
and all which would tend to assist him in dis-
charging his important duties, while at the
same time it would make his leisure hours pass
pleasantly along.
May 29th, 1798. Made the signal for sailing,
from the harbor of Paypayachee (so called by
the natives). This was observed by the Rev.
Mr. Crook, and our friends the chiefs, who had
been on board the afternoon previous, and be-
fore we could get under way, they were on
board to make a parting visit; the regent say-
ing the king was very desirous that we would
remain with them one moon longer, and if this
was too long, that we would not go for at least


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
205
five suns. The king,” said he," has got plenty
of hogs and bread-fruit, plenty for you, and, for
all his people.” There is nothing on earth so
difficult in its performance, or that requires so
much care and caution, as to refuse, without
giving pain, the offer or invitation of a generous
heart—nothing so distressing, to such an indi-
vidual, as to refuse to accept what he offers
from the purest and most disinterested motives ;
and that these were the actuating principles of
the offerers in this matter, I cannot doubt :
therefore the difficulty before me, for an apology
the most likely to answer my purpose. I re-
plied, after expressing many thanks for his ma-
jesty's invitation, that the order for sailing had
been given, it was imperative, and like their
taboo, must be obeyed, and the ship sail this
very day. It was not satisfactory, however;
the end was not attained. Dejected and disap-
pointed, the regent sat down, and without utter-
ing a word, rested his head upon his hands some
time. I knew not exactly what to do, but with
a view to relieve his mind, I told him that
haps we might return to their harbor again in
twelve or eighteen moons, but he ought to let
us go in a cheerful manner, and not be so dispi-
rited: there he still sat. Meanwhile, at eleven
o'clock, we had taken up our anchor and stood
per-


206
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
out of the harbor ; having passed a mile to sea-
board, from and without the two islets which
we called the sisters, the ship was hove to, so
that those friends who had remained on board
thus far to see us safe out of the harbor, might
get into their canoes and return.
From the aged chief Tearoroo, I received a
friendly hug, and his good wishes, after having
“ touched noses" with him. The parting with
my excellent and worthy friend, the Rev. Mr
Crook, was very impressive ; but from Tooboo-
rebooa, the regent, there was no getting away;
several times he bade me farewell, would get
as far as the ship's side, and then return, seize
my hand, and beg me not to go yet, not so soon.
To try the advantage of a little coaxing, some
axes, and articles that he was known to be
par-
tial to; were brought upon deck; of these he
was requested to make choice, or if he wished
it, to take them all, and whatever he chose
should be put into the canoe for him. He did
not even seem to notice what had been said, but
stood still, as one altogether indifferent to what
was taking place around him.
Mr. Crook, and Tearoroo, who had patiently
waited for a long time, supposing that if the
regent should find he was likely to be left with-
out a canoe in which to return to the shore,


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
207
would bestir himself to take advantage of theirs,
recommended me to fill away on the ship, and
cast off their rope; this was done, the canoe
keeping within a few yards astern. I finally
persuaded this warm-hearted chief, so much as
to get him on the outside of the ship’s railing,
where he remained some moments, standing
on the main channel, in a thoughtful mood.
Well,” said he, at last, “let me then bid you
good bye once more;” and after so doing, ac-
cording to their custom, he let himself fall into
the sea, making the best of his way for the ca-
noe, which, as he reached it in safety, the three
friends paddled for the shore. At eighty yards
distance, the regent arose, and gave us a friendly
wave of the hand; and so long as we could see
him, with the aid of the glass, continued with his
head resting on his hands. He was somewhat
over the middle stature, full six feet in height,
of a straight and handsome form, a man possess-
ing immense strength, of a noble disposition,
ever ready, even at his own inconvenience, to do
all in his power for the accominodation of his
visiters; and had it not been for the disfigura-
tion of his face and ears caused by the tatooing,
with which ornament, (according to their no-
tions of beauty) or mark of merit, he was much
more distinguished than any other native we


208
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
saw, he would have been a good subject for
the study of the sculptor and the painter uni-
tedly; but as it was, the effect of this tatooing
was to make his skin appear as dark as that of
any African. This custom is not confined to
the men, for the women likewise indulge in it
in a greater or less degree, the same being held
in very great estimation, and considered as a
mark of the highest honor.
Among the men, there was a prevalent fa-
shion of cutting the hair off close to the scalp,
as far as the middle of the head, leaving on
each side a long lock, which was either left
hanging loosely down, or bound up in a bunch
on the crown, according to the pleasure of the
individual. The women appeared to be divided
into two parties on this matter: the better class
wearing their hair without any kind of fixing
about it, down the back, or partly over the
shoulders in front, and also down the back,
negligently; while the lower class always cut
theirs short off.
Both the men and women were habited alike,
the mildness of their climate not requiring much
clothing; it generally consisted simply of a co-
vering around the waist, yet at times a more
substantial garment was used.
The men are all well formed, and are ex-


FANNI NG'S VOYAGES.
209
ceedingly active, either on land or in the water;
and the women, were it not for their color, which
is of a light copper cast, would be considered
as beautiful, when arrayed in bleached white
robes, and turbans, their long black hair, which
they comb as carefully as do our ladies theirs,
hanging loosely around; their appearance at
least is such. Both men and women have ex-
cellent teeth, as white and sound as one could
desire to possess.
They are not so numerous, or warlike, as are
the inhabitants of the Island of Wepoo, and al-
though at times engaged in wars, particularly
with the tribe situated to the eastward of them,
yet in the main they appeared to be a peaceable
friendly people; this had been their bearing
towards ourselves, and the universality of this
disposition, especially with the chiefs, evinced
during our stay among them, certainly esta-
blished their claim to our grateful remembrance.
The harbor of Paypayachee is excellent, and
possesses many conveniences: it is situated in
a conspicuous bay, at the side of which, and
abreast of the beach, was our anchoring station.
In searching and sounding we did not discover
any rocks, or dangers under the surface of the
water, so that a ship may stand boldly in for
the sisters, (a good mark to know the harbor by)
27


210
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
when these are passed, hauling up towards the
beach on the east side, and anchor at such dis-
tances from the shore as suits, with the water
varying in depths of from ten to twenty fathoms,
according to the distance from the beach. If
the trade blows far from the northward of east,
a large ship had better anchor near the sisters,
in the passage, and warp in, as the wind from
the mountains will then be baflling in' the
bay with variable flaws, strong puffs, and with
calms, yet a small vessel, or fore and aft
schooner, can run in even at such times, with
perfect safety.
There are other harbors, as I was informed
by the chiefs, through Mr. Crook's interpreta-
tion, viz. two to the eastward, and one to the
westward, on the south coast; and also two on
the north coast of this island.
The valley which is called Tiuhoy, is in form
not unlike a triangle, being a league or so wide,
near the shore, gradually narrowing as it goes
in shore, where at its farthest end are a number
of trees, while on the two sides are high moun-
tains, being, with the exception of now and
then a ledge on which are the dwellings of the
islanders, almost a complete perpendicular wall.
As seen immediately after a shower, when the
sun is up and shining upon the numerous streams


FANNING’S VOYAGES.
211
which then pour down the sides of the moun-
tains, and over the green of the valley, looking
like so many layers of polished silver; with
here and there a native's habitation, some built
very high up the mountain, like so many bird's
nests, the valley then presents one of the most
beautiful and romantic views mortal eye ever
beheld.
This tribe is called the Taeehs, the neighbor-
ing tribe in the valley to the east of them,
Happah, and that to westward the Tiohahs.
At the period of our arrival, hogs, fowls, bread-
fruit, cocoa-nuts, yams, and tarro, were very
plenty
Their sugar cane I certainly think is the finest
as well as the largest that is grown. Refresh-
ments we obtained at most reasonable rates: a
pig, for instance, weighing forty or sixty pounds,
was purchased with a small fish hook, board-
nail, or a bit of iron hoop three or four inches
in length; other articles at a like cheap rate.
In the workmanship of their war-clubs, spears,
clubs, and paddles, their canoes, as well as their
mother-of-pearl fish hooks, and gear, which are
all surprisingly neat, and extremely curious,
considering they were not made with steel or
iron tools, but by their rough implements of
stone, shell, or bone, they have shown them-


212
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
selves to be first rate natural mechanics. We
purchased many fathoms of their fishing lines
and ropes, made from the bark of a tree, both
of which were very neat articles; the last we
found answered as running rigging very well
indeed. Their war arms consist of the spear,
the war-club, and the sling. Their martial music
is such as is produced by the drum (a hollow
log with a shark skin drawn over each end) and
the war conk, a large shell of various colors, the
whole curiously polished and ornamented with
human hair, either braided or in bunches.
They too were cannibals, or at least so far as
the eating of the flesh of their enemies makes
them such; as a proof of this I observed one day,
while trading with the canoes along side, some-
thing wrapped up in some palm leaves, on board
of one of them, the native in which did not offer
it for barter. This was so unusual, that I ex-
amined it, and found the same to be a piece of
human flesh, baked; surprised, I shrunk back
with horror, and asked him what he was going
to do with it. The fellow took my meaning,
and replaced the leaves around it as formerly,
only answering, that as it was a part of one of
their enemies, it was therefore very good food
for him, and whenever he was hungry, he was
going to eat it. This, was the only evidence


FANNI NG'S VOYAGES.
213
that came under my immediate observation; I
endeavored to make him comprehend how
wicked and awfully disgusting such a practice
was; with what success, however, I know not.
When our ship first came in sight of the Mar-
quesas Islands, the crew had been gathered to-
gether, in order to hear and know a set of rules
and regulations, that had been prepared for our
government in all our future dealings and trade
with the natives: the penalty for a breach of
these, was immediate confinement in the ship's
run, until such times as she should leave the
island or place where the fault was committed;
or if the crime did not warrant so severe a pu-
nishment, one more proportioned to it was to be
inflicted. These were highly necessary, for the
prevention of mutual imposition; the better to
insure attention to them, as well as to prevent
any one from having an excuse for doing wrong,
and to superintend the purchasing and selling,
an officer was daily appointed. He superin-
tended all the business of bartering and trading,
and inspected all the purchases received on
board, of whatever kind they might be, while any
person wishing to possess an article of curiosity,
without having the means so to do, had them
charged to their account on the ship's books.
To the credit of our crew, there was but one


214
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
breach of these regulations; and this was with
a young man who had had in his chest an old
fish hook, which was noticed by an islander near
by, who offered to buy the same with one of
their curiously fashioned fish hooks; this was
accepted, and the bargain closed. Shortly
after, the native being wanted, was called aft
by his chief, and appeared with the hook in his
lips. When asked where he obtained it, he was
confused; the chief then required him to point
out from whom it was had, when the sailor, ap-
parently just sensible of his fault, acknowledged
it, and was sent down into the run. His con-
finement, however, was not very lengthy, for his
shipmates all came aft with a petition for his
release, whereupon, in consideration that it was
a first offence, after the customary promises of
good behavior, better care in future, &c., on
his part, he was returned to duty.


CHAPTER XII.
PASSAGE FROM NUGGOHEEVA TO CANTON, AND DISCOVERY OF
SOME NEW ISLANDS.
Discovery of New York and Nexsen's Islands.-Cape Brintnall.
Fanning's Islands, and a description of them.—The Bay.-Ex-
cellent fishing.--New and beautiful species of bird.--Discovery
of some ancient burying places.—Contents of one of these piles.
-Discovery of Washington Island.—Coral reef.-Singular oc-
currence.—Palmyra's Island.-Its situation.-Sperm whale
ground.- July 4th. - Island of Tinian.-Shipwrecked crew.-
Their residences.- Manner of conducting a cattle hunt.-Malays
left on the island.—Leave Tinian Island with the rescued com-
pany.-Affair with the Chinese fishermen.
May 30th, 1798. After the departure of our
three friends, as related in the preceding chap-
ter, we bore up and stood to the westward
along the coast, going off before the wind with
all sail set. At 6 P. M. the north-west point of
Nuggoheeva bore E. by N. about five leagues
distant; the Island of Fettooeeva then bearing
N. W. by W. six leagues distant. It was now
but five or six days since we had first obtained
sight of the Washington group of islands, during
which, a harbor had been searched for, and
found, water for a long passage had been filled,
and an abundant stock of excellent refresh-


216
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
ments laid in, of which the present appearance
of our decks gave ample testimony; so that the
time spent at these most beautiful islands, can-
not in any wise be said to have been foolishly
squandered
Among our crew there were some mechanics,
all, with one exception, first rate workmen; as-
sisted by the ingenuity and perseverance of
these men, we had run a hand-rail, with a
straitened sheer fore and aft the ship, about a
man's height from the deck, the space between
it and the main rail being filled up with dia-
mond mash net, faced with canvass. This, the
better to agree with the bulwarks, was painted in
a like manner; so that when our boarding net-
ting (as described page 170) was down, and
stowed in form on this rail, it had the exact ap-
pearance, at a trifling distance, of hammocks
laid up in the netting. Our carpenter's mate
having served at the turning business, also con-
trived to furnish himself a lathe and set of turn-
ing tools; with these he had made some quakers
(wooden, or false guns), which, duly provided
by the carpenter and armorer with carriages,
vents, tompions, aprons, breechings, all in com-
plete style, and being well painted, were such
good imitations of the iron guns, as to require a
close inspection to detect the deception. This


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
217
may be better conceived from the fact, that
when sold with the ship on her return to New
York, the purchaser, although he had been on
board daily, while the cargo was being dis-
charged, and had stood upon them very fre-
quently, bought them all as so many iron guns,
but when discovered to him, came with a com-
plaint, asserting that he had been imposed
upon: he looked, as we seamen say, “like one
struck all aback,” when informed that the in-
ventory merely stated, armed with carriage
guns, without specifying the exact number.
So that by these means our little ship was,
as to her outward appearance, completely
changed from a merchant-man into a man-of-
The individual excepted as above, al-
though entirely ignorant of the business for
which he shipped, and knowing nothing of even
the easiest branches of his trade, as a cooper,
was nevertheless a good natured fellow, and
being willing to learn, was at this time set to
work to bear his part in the various duties on
ship board, at making buckets, kegs, cans, kids,
&c., in which he shortly became quite an adept.
At 5 A. M. the lookout at the mast-head, gave
notice of his seeing land in the N. E. This, as
we neared it, appeared to be two islands, one
high and of considerable extent, and the other
war.
28


218
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
a low island. The first we named New York
Island, and the second Nexsen Island, in com-
pliment to my friend and owner Mr. Elias Nex-
sen. The number of smokes that could be seen
arising in various parts of the land, we consi-
dered as indications that they were inhabited,
but bearing N. E. by E. from us, at the distance
of from four to six leagues, with the wind from
the E. N. E. did not think proper, particularly
as we were not in want of any thing from them,
to waste time in beating up to them. At noon,
our latitude was 89 13' south, longitude 1410
31' west; at which time the middle of New
York Island bore E. by N. eight leagues
distant.
June 7th. The trade wind, with which we
have been favored for the last few days, has
blown a moderate breeze during the same, va-
rying from the E. to the N. N. E. with occasion-
ally, heavy showers of rain. Boobies, man-of-
war hawks, small white gulls, fern, or egg-
birds, in great numbers, always in company, to-
gether with many flying-fish, of a larger size
than ordinary; these were a favorite fish with
us, and came very opportunely just now, by
adding to the variety of our dishes. At 4 A. M.
crossed the equator for the second time, being
in longitude 154° 43' west.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
219
June 11th. Had the trade wind light from
the E. S. E. with passing clouds; at intervals
light showers of rain. At 3 A. M. soon after
one of these showers, the seamen at the mast-
head on the lookout, gave the cry of “Land
ho!" and in reply to the demand of the officer,
then in charge, of " where away?" replied, “di-
rect ahead, and close aboard;" the ship under
full sail, with steering sails set below and aloft,
was at this time going before the wind. The
orders for the officers having charge of the deck,
while sailing across this extensive ocean, were,
in case land, or any dangers should be disco-
vered during the night time, for them not to
leave the deck to report the same to myself, but
to give their immediate attention to the helm
and the sails, have all hands called, while at
the same time by stamping on the deck, over
my head, I should be awaked. In the present
instance, these directions had been promptly
complied with, by the officer then in charge, so
that in a few seconds I reached the deck, just
at the moment that the lookout again called
out,“ breakers close aboard;" the helm was then
a lee, at port, and the ship coming fast to the
wind on her starboard tacks, the studding sails
were coming in, and yards bracing up, when
stepping to the larboard rail, the land was seen


220
FANNING'S VOYAGES,
stretching along in a direction seemingly about
north and south, with the surf in the western
board, as a rain shower passed over, and its
clearing up enabled us to see it, appearing to be
one continued sheet of white foam along the ho-
rizon, breaking high, with a tremendous noise,
on the coral reef that bound the coast, and about
one mile distant from the ship, as seen from the
deck. After trimming every sail upon the wind,
the ship looked about two points off the land,
moving to the north-east at the rate of two and
a half miles per hour, a heavy swell or sea from
the eastward heaving her to the leeward, as she
ranged along the land.
After an hour passed in great anxiety, a point
or cape was discovered off the fore-beam, while
as the day began to dawn upon us, it was ob-
served that we had fallen in with the land,
about four miles to the south of the North-east
Cape,* from which we were now gaining an
offing to the north, and whence the land tended
away to the westward. The ship had not
* Which we named Cape Brintnall, (after our meritorious first
officer, now Captain Brintnall, a gentleman of much nautical infor-
mation, residing in the city of New Haven, and who, subsequently
to this, has been in command of a ship for many voyages, in the
business of seal fishery and commercial trade to the Pacifics and
Canton, and while thus engaged, has paid for duties on China
goods, many thousand dollars, the result of his great industry and
perseverance, into the United States treasury.)


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
221
gained over two miles to the northward of this
cape, when it became suddenly calm, and by
8 A. M. the leeward swell or sea had hove her
much more than a mile along the coast to the
westward of this cape.
In this instance, we narrowly escaped ship-
wreck, as on sounding with the boat, for the
purpose of ascertaining if such would probably
have been the case, we were led to infer as
much from our not being able, with fifty fa-
thoms of line, to obtain bottom at a cable's
length from the coral reef which binds the
shore; so that had the calm happened only two
hours sooner, it would unquestionably have
taken place. At 10 A. M. a sea breeze from
the north-east sprang up, whereupon we bore
away, and sailed along the northern coast to the
westward : this island appeared to be one of
some extent, and the group to consist of three,
all within sight at the same time, and laying in
such position to each other, as in some measure
to form a triangle. The north and south islands
were each about nine miles in length; the other,
the eastermost one, stretching to the northward
and southward, and adjacent to the eastern ends
of the two first mentioned, was about six miles
in length, the whole three forming a most spa-
cious bay, with good anchorage and good har-


FANNI NG'S VOYAGES:
223
number would be full as many as we could
consume on board ship before they should spoil:
when cooked, they were found to be very finely
flavored, and good eating. The sharks here are
very numerous, and while the boat was on her
passage into the bay, before she entered the pass, ,
they became so exceedingly ravenous around
her, and so voracious withal, as frequently to
dart at, and seize upon her rudder and the oars, ,
leaving thereon many marks of their sharp
teeth and powerful jaws; but so soon as she
left the pass and entered within the bay, they
deserted her, their stations being instantly oc-
cupied by multitudes of fish, less rapacious, yet
infinitely more valuable. When the boat was
loaded, accompanied by an officer, the steward
going along, we took a stroll into the interior
for a few minutes, among the upland grass and
groves of various kinds of trees, without being
able to discover any of the valuable bread-fruit
tree. At the barren spots, the birds, boobies,
knoddies, and the like, were quietly setting on
their nests, so fearless and gentle, as to be ea-
sily taken by the hand; yet in self defense,
sometimes pecking suſiciently hard to draw
blood. Amongst the birds, was one species
about the size of our robbin; with a breast of
scarlet colored feathers, the under portion of the


224
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
body being finished off with bright red, the neck
of a golden color, back a lively green, with a
yellow beak, except the very points, which
were of a light dun color, the wings and tail
being both of a jet black, and the last tipped
off with white: it was a most beautiful and
lovely bird, with its brilliant and richly varie-
gated plumage. We were much chagrined,
while observing these, to see a man-of-war hawk
flying by with one in his mouth, apparently
having just caught it. At 6 P. M. returned to
the ship, with the result of our aſternoon's
operations.
There were no signs nor vestige of habitation
discovered by us during our perambulations,
from which we could infer that mortal ever had
placed his foot upon these shores, previous to
the date of our arrival; still Captain Donald
Mackay, in a vessel under the agency of the
author, a few years after their discovery, being
at anchor some weeks at Fanning's Island,
while procuring a cargo of beach la mer, turtle
shell, &c. for the China market, reported on his
return home, that during this stay he frequently
walked into the interior, and in one of these
walks had come across some heaps of stones,
which, to all appearance, from their order and
regularity, were thus placed by the hands of


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
225
men, although from the coat or crust of weather
moss with which they were covered, it must
have been at some very remote date. Being
prompted by curiosity, and a desire for further
information upon this subject, he caused one of
these piles to be removed, and found it to con-
tain, a foot or two under the surface of the
ground, a stone case, filled with ashes, frag-
ments of human bones, stone, shell, and bone
tools, various ornaments, spear and arrow heads
of bone and stone, &c.
These islands are situated in latitude 3° 51'
30' north, longitude 159° 12' 30' west, and as
before stated, are three in number, exclusive of
the islets. We gave them the name of Fan-
ning's Islands, and by this they have been re-
corded, and remain on the charts in use. There
is sufficient depth of water through the passage
for any merchant ship to pass in, and on the
inner or bay side is smooth and convenient
anchoring, which, together with the abundance
of wood and water, the tropical fruits, best of
fresh fish, and excellent turtle, here to be ob-
tained, make this a very desirable place, for the
refitting of a ship, and refreshing a crew. The
soil, generally speaking, as it appeared through-
out the interior, was rich and luxuriant. The
anchoring, on the bank off the western ends,
29


226
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
and under the lee of the islands, is from twenty
to thirty fathoms, over a sandy bottom : this, as
the trade winds here prevail, will be found to
be a smooth and easy roadstead; in the ebb and
flow of the tide, the current runs in and out of
this bay.
Having recruited our stock of fire wood, as
well as a goodly quantity of cocoa-nuts, at 7
P. M. we weighed anchor, and sailed from Fan-
ning's Islands, then steered under a moderate
trade breeze, to the N. W. by W. the weather
fair and pleasant, attended by a smooth swell of
the sea from the eastward.
A little before noon, June 12th, the seaman at
the mast-head again called out, “Land ho!"
adding, that the same was half a point off
the lee-bow. At meridian, this newly disco-
vered island bore west by north four leagues
distance. This, was of a much greater eleva-
tion than Fanning's Island, and was, moreover,
covered with plants or grass, presenting to our
eyes a beautiful, green, and flourishing appear-
ance. With the unanimous approbation of every
individual on board, both officers and seamen,
and with feelings of pride for our country, we
named this, Washington Island, after President
Washington, the father of his country.
Having but recently obtained a bounteous


228
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
island under a whole sail breeze, and at 6 P. M.
it bore E. S. E. at a distance of about six
leagues. From the many flocks of birds hover-
ing over and around us at this time, particularly
a small dark brown bird, with a white crown,
which had not before been seen so far from the
land, we were inclined to think that still more
land existed in our vicinity; yet were not able
to discover any other, notwithstanding we had
remarkably fine weather, and kept constantly
a sharp lookout aloft for the purpose.
June 14th. Although somewhat foggy around
the horizon, yet we had the weather quite plea-
sant, with a brisk trade breeze, nor has there
been any necessity, while sailing over or across
the western part of this extensive Pacific ocean,
to lay the ship by a single night, through fear of
running her upon any hidden danger, the weather
having been remarkably fine all the time, with
moderate trade winds, ever keeping a good look-
out, and believing ourselves perfectly secure
from this precaution; as usual attended by a
great many of the feathered race, our constant
companions. In this manner prosecuting our
voyage, it seemed more like a sailing excursion,
or party of pleasure, at least this portion of it,
than what it in fact was.
The following occurrence, although bordering


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
229
upon, and seemingly partaking of the miracu-
lous, did nevertheless, actually take place. At
nine o'clock in the evening, my customary hour
for retiring, I had as usual repaired to my berth,
enjoying perfect good health, but between the
hours of nine and ten found myself, without
being sensible of any movement or exertion in
getting there, on the upper steps of the compa-
nion-way. I suddenly awoke, and after ex-
changing a few words with the commanding
officer, who was walking the deck, returned to
my berth, thinking how strange it was, for I
never before had walked in my sleep. Again I
was occupying the same position to the great
surprise of the officer, (not more so than to my-
self) after having slept some twenty minutes or
the like: here, upon observing the glittering stars
over head, and feeling the night air, I was pre-
paring to return to the cabin, after answering in
the affirmative his inquiry whether Captain
Fanning was well ; why, or what it was, that
had thus brought me twice to the companion
way, I was quite unable to tell, but lest there
should be any portion of vigilance unobserved
by those then in charge, I inquired how far he
was able to see around the ship; he replied,
that although a little hazy, he thought he could
distinctly see land or danger a mile or two, add-
#


230
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
ing, that the lookout was regularly relieved
every half hour, in reply to my question if such
was the case. There was something very sin-
gular in all this, and with a strange sensation
upon my mind, after what had passed, I again
returned to my berth. What was my astonish-
ment on finding myself the third time in the
same place ! yet with this addition: I had now,
without being aware of it, put on my outer
garments, and hat; it was then I conceived some
danger was nigh at hand, and determined me
upon laying the ship to for the night; she was at
this time under full sail, going at the rate of five
or six miles per hour; all her light sails were
accordingly taken in, the topsails were single
reefed, and the ship brought to forthwith on a
wind : leaving directions with the officer in
charge to tack every hour, and the same to be
passed to the officer who should relieve him at
twelve o'clock, so that by these means we might
maintain our present station as near as possible
until morning; I added a request that he would
call me at day light, since himself would then
be on the watch. He was surprised, and look-
ing at me in astonishment, appeared half to
hesitate whether to obey, in all probability sup-
posing me to be out of my mind. I observed
to him, however, that I was perfectly well, and


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
231
possessed of my right senses, but that something,
what it was I could not tell, required that these
precautionary measures should be studiously
observed. After leaving these necessary di-
rections, a few minutes before eleven I once
more retired, and remained undisturbed, enjoy-
ing a sound sleep, until called at day light by
the officer. He reported the weather then to be,
as it had been during the night, much the same
as the evening previous, with a fine trade wind
from E. N. E. Giving him directions to keep
the ship off her course and make all sail, after
attending to some little duties, I followed to the
deck just as the topmost rays of the sun came
peering above a clear eastern horizon.
The officers and watch were busily engaged
in the washing of decks, and attending to those
various duties which claim attention at this por-
tion of the twenty-four hours. All was activity
and bustle, except with the helmsman: even
the man on the lookout was for a moment called
from his especial charge, and was then engaged
in reeving and sending down on deck the steer-
ing sail haulyards. This induced me to walk,
after taking a few turns back and forth on the
weather side of the quarter-deck, over to the
lee quarter, not expecting, however, to make
any discovery, but solely to take a look ahead;


232
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
in a moment the whole truth flashed before
my eyes, as I caught sight of breakers, mast
high, directly ahead, and towards which our
ship was fast sailing.
Instantly the helm was put a lee, the yards
all braced up, and sails trimmed by the wind,
as the man aloft, in a stentorian voice, called
out, “Breakers ! breakers ahead !” This was a
sufficient response to the inquiring look of the
officer, as perceiving the manœuvre, without
being aware of the cause, he had gazed upon
me to find if or no I was crazed; now, however,
casting a look at the foaming breakers, his face,
from a flush of red, had assumed a death-like
paleness. Still no man spake : all was silence,
except the needed orders as promptly executed,
every man moved, and every operation was
performed in the manner, and with the precision
that necessarily attends the conduct of an or-
derly and correct crew.
The ship was now sailing on the wind, and
the roaring of the herculean breakers under her
lee, at a short mile's distance, was distinctly
heard, as the officer to whom the events of the
past night were familiar, came aft to me, and
with the voice and look of a man deeply im-
pressed with some solemn convictions, said,
"Surely, sir, Providence has a care over us, and


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
233
has kindly directed us again in the road of safety.
I cannot speak my feelings, for it seems to me,
after what has passed during the night and now
also appears before my eyes, as if I had just
awaked in another world. Why, sir,” continued
he,“ half an hour's farther run from where we
lay by in the night, would have cast us on that
fatal spot, where we must all certainly have been
lost. If we have, because of the morning haze
around the horizon, got so near this appalling
danger in broad day light, what, sir, but the
hand of Providence, has kept us clear of it
through the night.” With him I perfectly
agreed, and answered, that we should now be
truly thankful to that Heavenly and protecting
Being. But urgent and imperative calls for
attention to our perilous situation, forbade at
present any farther remarks; the officer forth-
with took the glass, and went aloft for the pur-
pose of ascertaining whether the ship was near-
est to the north or south end of the reef, as also
whether we were likely to weather and clear
it on this tack.
I freely confess, that this premonition, so un-
usual, and the transactions therewith connected,
are deeply impressed upon my mind, as an evi-
dence of the Divine superintendence, and there,
ever will remain so firmly imprinted, -how could
30


234
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
they otherwise be ?-as never to be erased.
All hands, by this time made acquainted with
the discovery, and the danger they had so nar-
rowly escaped, were gathered on deck; gazing
upon the breakers with serious yet thoughtful
countenances. We were so fortunate as to
weather the breakers on our stretch to the
north, and had a fair view and over look of them
from aloft. It was a coral reef or shoal, in the
form of a crescent, about six leagues in extent
from north to south; under its lee, and within
the compass of the crescent, there appeared
to be white and shoal water. We did not dis-
cover a foot of ground, rock, or sand, above
water, where a boat might have been hauled
up; of course had our ship run on it in the night,
there can be no question but we should all have
perished.
Bearing away again on our course around its
northern side, I went aloft, and with the aid of
the glass could plainly see the land over it, far
in the south; yet regretting very much that we
were not able to spare time to make a lengthy
visit, the better to ascertain its extent and pro-
ductions; but this we could not, in justice to all
interested, undertake. The shoal is situated in
latitude 6° 15' north, and longitude 162° 18,
west.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
235
Captain D. Mackay, formerly spoken of, in
command of the schooner Brothers, under the
agency of the author, visited this land, which
has received the name of Palmyra's Island, a
few years after our discovery of it, while prose-
cuting his voyage in search of beach la mer, tur-
tle shell, &c., for the Canton market, and has
given the following particulars thereof. “Pal-
myra's Island lies in latitude 5° 49' north, lon-
gitude 1620 23' west, is about three leagues in
extent, and has two lagoons on it, in the west-
ermost of which, there is twenty fathoms of
water over a coral and sandy bottom : the ap-
proach to the western part of the island is ren-
dered dangerous on account of the coral rocks,
just below the surface of the water, which ex-
tend out from the shore to the distance of three
leagues; but on the north-west side there is
anchorage three quarters of a mile from the
reef, in eighteen fathoms."
It was thought after this escape, considering
also the valuable cargo our ship had on board,
to be too hazardous to continue any farther in a
route so entirely new and untraversed. We
therefore hauled the ship up to the northward,
and soon after getting into the usual track of
the Spanish manilla ships, steered a course for
the Island of Tinian; consequently in a path so


FANNING’S VOYAGES.
237
sometime during the latter part of the past
night. Latitude, at noon, 14° 48' north, longi-
tude 192° 23' west. This day tried and found
the current to set N. by E. at the rate of half a
mile per hour: for the several days past it has
been northerly.
July 4th. We had a light trade breeze, with
delightful weather, all of which was very for-
tunate for us, as by this means we were, in
some small degree at least, and to the best of
our capacities, keen appetites, and plenty of
edibles considered, enabled to add to the rejoic-
ings at home our mite, in the good old fashioned
way of enjoying a holiday. Butchered our last
Nuggoheeva hog, and with a full allowance of
fresh pork, yams, sweet potatoes, cocoa-nuts,
plumb pudding, and the like savory dishes, ma-
naged matters to have a pretty jovial time of it,
topping all off with a moderate glass, to prevent
our choking; “Hail Columbia! happy land,”
concluding the feast, and bringing therewith
very forcibly to our minds, the thoughts of
"home, sweet home!" In the evening, a noddy
lit on the yawl boat in the tackles at the ship's
stern, and suffered itself to be taken, apparently
nothing loth to assist in celebrating this our na-
tional anniversary of the Declaration of Inde-


238
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
up,
pendence. After suitably feeding, we allowed
him to have his liberty again.
On the fourteenth, had a strong trade wind
from E. by S. Had had during the night,
squalls of rain; at sunrise, however, it cleared
and
gave us our former fair weather. At
10 A. M. the seaman at the mast-head on the
lookout, gave the welcome cry of “Land ho!"
bearing W. by N. distant about seven leagues.
This proved to be the Island of Tinian. At
meridian, the south point of Tinian bore W. by
N. half N. three leagues distant; made prepa-
ration then, by bending the cables, to bring the
ship to an anchor. At 2 P. M. we were abreast
of the south point, and began to open the bay at
the south-west part of the island, where, laying
at the inner side of the reef, near to the shore,
a wreck was brought to our view; upon which
discovery, we set the American colors. An
hour after, brought the ship to anchor in seven-
teen fathoms of water, over a bottom of coral
rock and sand; the south point of the island
then bearing S. by E. and the north-west point
N..W. half N. After having the ship's sails
furled, a boat was hoisted out, manned and
armed, and proceeded for the shore, where se-
veral men could be seen near the wreck, which,
as we drew towards it, proved to be that of a


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
239
ship of between three and four hundred tons,
bilged, and laying over on her side. While
passing through the passage in the reef by the
wreck, it had been noticed that many of the
persons on the beach were Malays, and it was
therefore thought to be at least the most pru-
dent step for us to be on our guard, and make
use of all proper caution in approaching them.
As our boat came within a few yards of the
shore, the men ceased rowing and lay on their
oars, until it was ascertained who they were.
On hailing the person who appeared to have
command, motioned to his men to fall back, at
the same time himself coming forward, and an-
swering in English, that he was the command-
ing officer of the crew belonging to the wrecked
vessel : he, advanced to meet us, as we landed
from the boat, and after shaking hands, gave
me to understand his name to be Swain, that he
was an American, and was born in Nantucket,
held the station of first officer on board the lost
vessel, and, since the death of the captain, was of
course in the chief command, soliciting my as-
sistance in behalf of himself and shipwrecked
companions; to this I could but reply, that as it
was the bounden duty of every man to render
all the assistance in his power, to his fellow-


240
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
of age;
creatures in distress, he with his friends might
rely upon receiving mine.
He then proceeded, in answer to my inquiries,
how many persons there were in all of his com-
pany, to state, there were three females, and
twenty-one males, viz., the captain's widow, her
servant woman, and a female infant, two years
three officers, six British seamen, nine
Lascars, and eleven Malays; while as he thus
finished his statement, giving us an invitation to
visit their habitations. These we found plea-
santly situated on a beautiful lawn, surrounded
by, and having at suitable distances about the
same, stately trees, the whole appearing to be
a cool and most delightful residence. The first
house we arrived at was that belonging to the
captain's widow, to whom I was now intro-
duced by Mr. Swain : she was a very lady-like
woman, of an easy and graceful demeanor,
about thirty years of age, at the moment some-
what unwell, in consequence of the shock she
had experienced, from our vessel's coming so
suddenly to view, and although getting gradu-
ally more composed, yet considerable anxiety
still remained depicted upon her countenance.
From Mr. Swain it appeared, that this lady was
engaged upon some household matters in doors,
while the servant woman, at the time busy in


FANNING’S VOYAGES.
241
front of the house, was the first to notice the
approach of our ship by the south head of the
bay; it was this woman's exclaiming, “a
a ship!
a ship!” that brought the mistress to the door,
who, on beholding a vessel so near, and under
full sail towards them, swooned away, and fell
to the floor, nor was she brought to herself again
until we were on the point of anchoring; not
neglecting, while thus recovering, to offer up a
thankful prayer to Heaven, for so bright a pros-
pect of deliverance from her present situation,
and a restoration once more to her country and
friends. The lady herself observed, that the
moment our flag was seen flying at the mizen,
it at once told them the stranger belonged to a
Christian country; this of itself being a suffi-
cient guaranty that her commander would not
refuse herself and child a passage to her friends.
I assured her, that together with the infant and
servant maid, she was very welcome to, and
should have as comfortable accommodations as
our little ship could possibly afford, while on
the passage. With many expressions of thank-
fulness on her part, for thus answering her ex-
pectations, we were invited to take a cup of tea
previous to returning to the vessel, which of
course we did not decline, but accepted with
pleasure; and then proceeded to the next house,
31


242
FANNING'S VOYAGES,
which was the officer's lodge: nearly in a line
with these, were three others, for the seamen,
Lascars, and Malays, the whole forming an ob-
long square, and erected by means of piles
driven into the ground, other pieces connecting
these at the tops, having a sharp roof thatched
with palm leaves, and the turf flooring kept
neat and clean by means of mats, of which they
had great plenty, made them very comfortable;
the men appeared to be under entire subjection
to their officers, and quite content.
Within a few feet of the most inland lodge,
was a well of the aborigines, or ancient inhabit-
ants of the island; this, walled up in a very
neat manner with hewn stone, tapering from
the top to the bottom, was fifteen feet diameter
at the top, and five at the bottom, with a flight
of thirty-six stone steps on its south side, dè-
scending to the water, which was very good.
Near by this, piled up in an oblong heap, under
cover of the ship's sails, was her valuable cargo
of silks, teas, &c., and buried in an appropriate
grove, on the side of the lawn near to their ha-
bitations, were the remains of their captain.
The habitation of Mrs. M'Clannon, (the cap-
tain's widow) where we now repaired to fulfill
our engagement, was found in very neat order:
it was about twenty-four feet by twelve, the


FANNING'S VOYAGES,
243
inner walls being hung round with blue nan-
keen, a screen of the white, separating the far-
ther end of the room into a lodging apartment.
We found the tea-table already set, and most
bountifully furnished with what was a very
agreeable pic nic for persons from a long voy-
age, viz., baked bread, fruit, broiled chickens,
beef steaks, and China sweetmeats, to which
was added an excellent cup of tea ; events during
their residence on the island, and other agree-
able conversation, soon bringing the hour for
returning to the ship at hand.
From the following particulars, as given me,
at my request, by Mr. Swain, it appeared, that
their ship was an English vessel, the annual
supply ship from the Honorable British East
India Company at Canton, for the British settle-
ment at Sidney in New South Wales, with a
full cargo on board, consisting of teas, silks,
nankeens, China ware, sugar, rice, sam shu, (a
Chinese liquor) ginger, candy, and spices. They
had, on leaving Macoa, crossed the China Sea,
and passed Formosa, when on gaining the lon-
gitude of Japan, were met by severe storms, so
straining to the ship as caused her to leak badly,
When built, this ship had been iron fastened,
then sheathed with inch boards, put on with
iron nails, her bottom coppered over this sheath-


FANNI NG'S VOYAGES.
245
not, however, until they had succeeded in get-
ting out the major part of the cargo.
It was now upward of thirteen months since
this ship had been cast away; the crew, how-
ever, were so happy as to be thrown on one of
the most fertile spots in the world ; they had
tamed a milk cow, a few young cattle, a num-
ber of swine, and domestic fowls; these all run
wild. They had, moreover, a large supply of
bread-fruit,
cocoa-nuts, and many other excel-
lent tropical fruits, besides which, their cargo,
from its assorted character, furnished them with
suitable clothing, as well as some of the most
to be wished for articles for the table; so that
they were only to be considered as suffering from
the want of society. This had been the case
with the lady more particularly, since the mis.
fortune and its consequent fatigue had so pressed
upon his mind, as to throw the captain into a
violent fever, which in a very few days had
caused his death.
A hunting party of Malays and Lascars was
sent out by Mr. Swain, who had the goodness
to offer us some fresh beef, to procure from
among the wild herd a young heifer for this
purpose. Noticing that they took only a couple
of sharp hangers and knives, I inquired what
they were going to do with these : in reply,


246
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
Mr. Swain related their manner of taking these
animals. The prairies where the numerous
herds of wild cattle are in the habit of grazing,
are covered with rich feed; around these are
thick woods, impenetrable by reason of the
under brush, reed, vines, &c., excepting by such
paths as the cattle had worn in passing to and
from one prairie to another; these paths are so
narrow as to oblige the cattle to go along in
single file. Two men were usually posted in
ambush in these narrow ways, some few feet
apart, so that should the first one miss giving a
deadly stroke, the second would complete the
business: these being stationed, the others of
the party make a circuit at a suitable distance,
until they were arrived on the opposite side of
the prairie in sight of the herd, when driving them
off, the cattle always following the leader (a
large bull) in Indian file, went by the two first
mentioned men; they were allowed to pass
until an animal to their liking was approaching,
when the first man would strike at and endeavor
to cut the ham strings; if he is so fortunate as
to cut both, the creature instantly falls, and is
butchered on the spot, the meat being cut into
pieces sufficient for a load for each person; if
not, the second seldom fails in accomplishing
this end.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
247
The party sent out this time, returned in less
than two hours, with the several portions of a
fine fat young animal, to be sent on board for
the ship's company.
After returning to the ship, it became neces-
sary to hold a consultation, to arrange sundry
matters, and make some suitable preparations
for the reception of our new and unfortunate
friends, and their accommodations during the
passage to Macoa; this we were enabled to do
by dividing our after cabin, for the greater com-
fort of the females, into two parts, the other
being reserved for the officers; afterwards re-
ceiving six boxes and trunks of silk goods,
which, together with their luggage, considering
the size of our vessel and her full cargo, was
all that could be taken on board, and these
only for the benefit and by the desire of the
widow and officers.
July 17th. The same pleasant weather which
has favored us so long still continues, as well
as the moderate trade wind. Having obtained
wood, water, some refreshments, and an addition
to our stock of provisions, of some rice, tea,
sugar, &c. a young bullock, several hogs, and
poultry, we were now well furnished for the
passage to Macoá.
It was upon Mr. Swain's proposition, decided


248
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
to take the Lascars along, and leave the Malays
on the island, in consequence of a quarrel that
had taken place while the boats were employed
in transporting our passengers on board ship
with the seamen and their baggage, between
them, in which the Malays, intoxicated with the
sam shu, had fallen upon the Lascars, and beat
and wounded one of the latter seriously, by
stabbing him with a cruse or dagger, so that he
became faint and feeble from loss of blood, be-
fore we were able to get him on board and
dress his wounds; he however, by good nursing
and attendance gradually recovered, and by the
time of our arrival at Macoa was nearly healed.
This we the more readily acceded to, because
that it was Mr. Swain's intention to charter a
vessel, and return from Macoa to this island for
the cargo; the Malays, moreover, would have
plenty of provisions, and even the comforts of
life, so that there could be no likelihood of
want overtaking them previous to his return, to
which a farther consideration was the smallness
of our ship, the quantity of water she could
with other things carry, being only a moderate
allowance for the company with a fair passage,
exclusive of the Malays.
Being all ready for sea, we weighed anchor
and made sail, leaving the eleven Malays in


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
249
possession of the island, as well as in charge of
the wreck and cargo, until Mr. Swain's return,
which was in the space of about five months, as
I subsequently learned. Until we drew near
the entrance of the China Sea, the weather con-
tinued much the same as for many days back,
at intervals with heavy squalls of wind and
rain, though generally with a brisk trade wind.
August 3d. Our lookout gave the welcome
notice of land in the W. S. W. about ten leagues
off; this proved to be two of the Babuyane
Islands, the wind at the time a light breeze
from the E. S. E., weather very pleasant. Du-
ring the night the wind veered around to the
S. S. E. and at noon the next day we were
about midway between the two northward and
eastward islands, the southernmost bearing S.
S. E., the northernmost N. N. E. A great deal
of drift stuff was now about the ship, such as
trees, bamboo, straw, and grass weed. Our
observed latitude at this time was 19° 28'
north, having made 23° 41' west longitude from
Tinian. At 1 P. M. had sight of Cape Baxa-
dore, on Luconia, bearing S. by E. twelve
leagues distant, at the same time the western-
most island of the Babuyane group bore E. by
S. half s.
These islands are twelve in number, and are
32


250
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
all elevated or high land; from the N. E. part
of them a long reef of rocks puts off in the same
direction; some of these are so prominent as at
the distance of four leagues or thereabouts, to
appear very much like ships under sail. Among
these islands we found strong irregular currents.
The ship's course was now to cross the China
Sea, for Macoa.
August 5th. The winds were light and vari-
able, the weather still pleasant, the sea as
smooth as a mirror, here and there parcels of
drift, trees, &c. with many dolphin and other
fish about the ship, by the fifth day after we
had made our passage across the China Sea,
having then a moderate royal studding sail
breeze from the eastward; this, at eight in the
morning, brought us in sight of the grand
Ladrone Island, then bearing N. half E. about
ten leagues distant; on sounding, we had thirty-
eight fathoms water, soft muddy bottom. At
two P. M. the wind dying away, we came to
anchor in twenty fathoms; at day-break, weighed
anchor again, the wind from the E. by N. and
stood in shore, where we received a Chinese
pilot. The wind soon after veering around
ahead, brought us once more to anchor in eight
fathoms muddy bottom, the grand Ladrone bear-
ing east, the island, with the representation of a


252
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
all on board, with the exception of two, were
put to death : this affair coming fresh to the
widow's mind, and hearing the above order,
induced her to conceive a repetition of it,
or at least a severe struggle was about to
take place. When upon deck, I found the
pilot greatly concerned about his head, which
he was certain the Ladrones would cut off,
and not answering his call was sufficient to
make him believe these, were pirates. By get-
ting a spring to the cable, to veer it, and bring
our battery to bear, we were ready to settle the
matter very shortly; but unwilling, through
mistake, however sure the pilot might be, to
injure any subject of the Chinese emperor, we
hailed them again. Still no reply: the sentry
was then ordered to discharge his piece over
their boats, so that no one might be injured ; on
thus doing, the spell was soon broken; for their
women began screaming and crying in great
style, giving us to know that they were fisher-
men, whose nets were entangled with the ship's
cable, which they were endeavoring to clear.
We found, indeed, that they were only poor fish-
ermen, who had on board their several families.
At day-break, when the cable was hove in,
their net was found so entangled and wound
around, that we were obliged to cut it into se-


FANNING’S VOYAGES.
253
veral pieces before it was cleared; this was a
source of much grief to the two skippers, (but
it could not be avoided,) for now they could not
procure any chow chow (victuals) until the net
was first taken on shore and mended. We ex-
plained to them the imprudence of their con-
duct, and the risk they had run in not answer-
ing, while at the same time, to assist the poor
creatures, a cum shaw (gift) of rice, sugar, and
some provisions was given them, and to their
children a Spanish dollar each, as a fund to re-
pair their damage : this produced in return
many appeals to Chin Chin ing Josh (the name
of their God) for blessings in our behalf, the
women patting their little ones, and thanking
us as long as their voices could be heard.


CHAPTER XIII.
TRANSACTIONS AT MACOA AND CANTON.
Anchor in Macoa roads.-Land at the city.-Experience some
trouble from the mandarin on account of our female passengers.-
The Hon. Mr. Hall, President of B. E. I. Company.-Obtain a
pilot and chop for Canton.—Passengers for Canton.-Land at a
Chinese fort.- Are entertained.—The country.-Speedy gratifi-
cation of an invalid's wish.-Politeness of the Commodore of the
B. E. I. Company's fleet at Wampoa.—Directions for conducting
business at Canton.—Chinese house of worship.-Description of
the same, and ceremonies.
EARLY in the morning of August 13th, 1798, our
pilot had the ship under way again; wind light
from S. S. E. and at 8 P. M. brought her to an
anchor in Macoa road, having the city in full
view before us. After breakfast the following
morning, accompanied by Mr. Swain, I landed
at the city, where for a commencement I was
met by an unexpected difficulty, and one that
at first was like to have caused a vast deal of
trouble before it was removed; this was be-
cause we had on board the English female pas-
sengers, whom the governor, a mandarin of high
grade, declared he would not only not allow to
land, but must also refuse a chop (permit) and


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
255
pilot to enable us to proceed to Canton. Their
China custom, which amounts to law, requiring
the ship to depart and carry them away, chop,
chop (immediately). “It no have China cus-
tom; how can strange woman come on shore in
Chinese country? no—can-do, loo—this act,"
conclusively argued the mandarin, as he turned
upon his heel; the matter in his opinion admit-
ting of no farther discussion. Not much en-
lightened, or greatly pleased with this sublime
reasoning, I returned on board, rather heavy
hearted at so dark a beginning, but nevertheless
determined to try again. Next morning, waited
upon the mandarin again, but found him as
stubborn as ever, and for my farther informa-
tion, was told that the decree of the Celestial
Emperor, required all ships bringing foreign fe-
males, to give heavy bonds, that they would
take them away again when they sailed, mis-
fortune and distress, as in the present instance,
being of no consequence; they could not be per-
mitted to land, until these bonds were given,
even at Macoa, a Portuguese city, lest by some
means they should get to Canton by land.
The Hon. Mr. Hall, President of the Council
of the British East India Company's Factory at
Canton, was then at Macoa; by him I was re-
ceived with much cordiality, and after express-


256
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
ing many thanks for my .conduct, he kindly
assisted me, and also made every possible exer-
tion to obtain relief, and liberate our ship; still
without the smallest probability of success.
Nothing was sufficient to induce these officers
to vary or make any allowance for a case (as
this) not contemplated by their laws. Afraid
of having his head taken off, the mandarin al-
ways replied, “it no have China custom; how
can, do.” Thus the second, the third, and fourth
days in like manner were passed, with just
about as much encouragement on the last, as on
the first, and moreover, being daily harassed by
the prevarications of the stubborn and unfeeling
mandarins, governed as they were by illiberal
laws and customs, made my situation exceed-
ingly unpleasant.
On the fifth day, the case was finally arranged
by Mr. Hall, who made the mandarin a hand-
some cum shaw, (present) and giving bonds that
the first English vessel or Company's ship that
sailed, should take the females away. After
this, a chop was issued for the landing of the
females, as well as the officers and men, from
the wrecked vessel, together with their luggage
and cases of silk, and another for our ship to
receive a pilot and proceed to Canton. While
employed clearing ship and preparing to get


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
257
under way, Mr. Parry, one of the supercargoes,
came along side in the President's yacht, a most
superb schooner of about eighty to one hundred
tons burthen, with a request from him, for a pas-
sage to Canton in our vessel, for a Mr. M’Kenzie,
brother to one of their Council, who wished to get
up to Canton, where he might have the attend-
ance of his brother and the chief surgeon, hav-
ing but recently arrived from Batavia, where he
had been confined by a ſever, though now so
far convalescent, as to be able to walk about,
with a little assistance. Mr. Parry farther
stated, that there could be no danger of Mr.
M'K.'s communicating the fever, as he had been
many days with them, and no symptoms of
others having received it could be discovered,
as indeed had there been the least risk, the ap-
plication would not have been made; it had,
however, been refused by the captains of two of
their ships, and by the captain of one from
Philadelphia. I could not but answer then, that
the case seemed somewhat hazardous, by the re-
fusal of these captains, yet, although our cabin
was small, the gentleman should be accommo-
dated with a passage, and made as comfortable
as our means would admit of. After expressing
his acknowledgments in the name of the Presi-
dent, Mr. Parry returned to Macoa, to bring Mr.
33


258
FANNING’S VOYAGES.
M'Kenzie on board our ship; this he shortly did,
having in company an Armenian, and Persian
gentleman, likewise friends of Mr. Hall, who
requested a like favor in their behalf; this was
also assented to; Mr. M'Kenzie I soon found
with the loan of an arm, was able to walk about
with comparative ease. Mr. Parry* now took
leave of us, and we having a Chinese pilot and
chop on board, hove up our anchor, and steered
for Lintin, to pass the Boca or mouth of the
river Tigris, for Canton.
August 21st.' At 7 P. M. we came to an an-
chor in the bay opposite a fort on the east side of
the Boca; wind moderate and variable, with
pleasant weather. At nine next morning, while
waiting for the mandarin to come on board and
examine the ship, before giving our pilot a new
chop to pass up the river, accompanied by Mr.
M'Kenzie and the other two gentlemen, I took
advantage of the clear and pleasant weather,
and landed near the fort, where an under officer
of the garrison met us, who, had it not have
been for our Armenian passenger possessing a
* Of this gentleman I cannot speak but in terms of the highest
admiration and respect; his exertions to obtain the release of our
ship from the Chinese authorities, and in behalf of our distressed
passengers, were not omitted by day or by night. An acquaint-
ance with him then commenced, subsequently increased, will ever
be held in remembrance by the author.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
259
smattering knowledge of the Chinese language,
would have stayed farther proceedings in our
intended walk; this gentleman, however, was
able to negociate a treaty, and despatched the
officer to the mandarin in command at the fort,
who, in consideration of the small sum, or cum
shaw of a Spanish dollar, not only gave permis-
sion to take our walk, but also directed the
officer to show us to the fort, where on entering,
his mandarinship, with his hands closely clenched
together in front, and thus moving them quickly
up and down, with the body slightly inclining
forward, actions on the whole somewhat resem-
bling the shaking of a person afflicted with the
paralysis, welcomed us with a chin ching, (how
d'
ye
do?) making the while a great many bows,
in rapid succession, and as many professions of
friendship.
We were then treated in the usual custom of
Chinese politeness, with tea and sweetmeats,
and afterwards allowed to look round the fort,
attended by the officer who had first met us.
There were in it fourteen handsome brass nine
pound cannon, but all very uncouthly mounted :
it was besides difficult to depress or elevate these
pieces many degrees: officers and men were
similarly accoutred, except a ball in the officers
caps. Their military discipline, so far as we


260
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
were able to judge by the specimen shown, was
very far from being the best in the world. After
leave taking was over, with this commander,
who, according to their notion, was very polite,
and to ours very friendly, we strolled as far as
the top of a hill near by, from which a conside-
rable view of the country was had; this ap-
peared, especially the rich and extensive padda
grounds in the vallies, to be pouring forth its
productions in great abundance, and promising
an ample harvest to its owners.
After we had left the shore a few rods, Mr.
M'Kenzie seeing a fisherman carrying some
good sized fish of the mullet kind, from his boat
up to the fort, expressed a wish to have some,
observing, he thought with one of these barba-
cued, he could make a most hearty dinner. To
gratify his desire, I answered, we would imme-
diately return and endeavor to procure one, but
this he informed me would be fruitless, for it
could not be effected, save through the agency
of one of their compidores. We had scarcely
taken a dozen strokes on our way to the ship,
as a mullet, weighing fourteen pounds, sprang
from the water to the height of our heads, and
fell into the boat in the midst of us, as we were
seated in the stern sheets, and while to prevent
his flouncing disturbing our invalid, I had placed


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
261
my feet on the fish, I was a little surprised to hear
Mr. M’K., astonished to have his wish thus won-
derfully gratified, observe, “Mr. Fanning, you
certainly are one of Heaven's favorites, for no
sooner is the wish of your friends made known,
than an invisible hand places the means in
your power to gratify the same.". Be that as
it may, the prize certainly came very oppor-
tunely. This fish, the steward cooked for dinner,
agreeable to Mr. MʼK.'s wish, and on it he
made a very hearty meal, without (considering
his health), experiencing any ill effects from the
indulgence.
At half past eleven A. M. the mandarin had
given the pilot a chop to go up. We accord-
ingly weighed anchor, and with a fair breeze
passed the Boca. The 23d, at two in the after-
noon, we came to anchor at Wampoa, ten miles
below the city of Canton, the usual anchoring
ground assigned by this government to all fo-
reign vessels.
The Commodore of the British East India
Company's fleet, who was here in a fifty gun
ship, had received a letter from the President of
the Company, by a Chinese passage boat, ad-
vising him of Mr. M'Kenzie's being on board our
ship, and before our sails were furled, he had
sent a lieutenant in his barge, to take Mr. M'K.


262
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
and the other two passengers, with an invita-
tion, couched in the most polite and friendly
terms, for myself to accompany these gentlemen,
to his ship. This I accepted, and was received
in a like flattering manner, being at the same
time introduced to the captains of several of
their ships, and his own officers, the commodore
desiring me to consider myself as much at home
on board his ship at all times, as in my own, at
the same time expressing himself perfectly will-
ing to render any friendly assistance in his power,
that I might stand in need of; while, in case of
his absence, the same would be promptly at-
tended to by the then commander of their fleet.
I returned him many thanks for his politeness
and courtesy, and shortly after returned in his
barge on board the Betsey.
At eight the next morning, having procured
another chop from the mandarin, in the Chinese
guard boat made fast at our quarter, with the
pilot as a guide, I left the vessel in my own
boat, for the city of Canton, where, after a
series of tedious and vexatious examinations at
five chop houses on the way up, I arrived in
three hours time. Mr. Hall in
Mr. Hall in a few days came
up from Macoa, from whom, together with the
members of his council and several supercar-
goes, I received much assistance in my busi-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
263
ness; their attentions proving to be of vast
benefit to my principals and to myself, being
entirely unacquainted with the mode in which
trade was carried on; and having received a
kind invitation from the President to make my-
self at home at their factory, nor to hesitate at
all to call upon him, or any gentleman con-
nected therewith, for advice, I made, there-
fore, almost every day, a visit to this establish-
ment, spending many an agreeable hour with
my friend, Mr. M'Kenzie, who had an apart-
ment to himself, and whom I found to be an
amiable and intelligent traveller.
The usages and customs of trade at Canton,
make it easy for supercargoes to attend to their
business there with despatch ; in fact, more so
than at any port of the world I have visited. The
first thing to be done, is to hire a factory, and
thither the Chinese merchants and traders will
all assemble, bringing with them the samples of
what they have to dispose. This factory con-
tains an audience or dining hall, lodging and
store rooms, together with accommodations for
the compidore (steward) servants, cooks, and
coolies (laborers). After the factory is obtained,
a compidore is engaged, then a trusty servant,
who speaks the stranger's language, and attends
upon your person in your walks, to act as in-


264
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
or.
terpreter. After this the ship must be secured
with one of the Chinese hung merchants (i. e.
upon receiving security, he agrees to pay all the
duties, charges, &c.), of whom there are twelve,
being an office answering to that of our collect-
He grants all the chops (permits) for the
cargo to be brought up to town, and also for
the return cargo to be taken on board. This
merchant will frequently, when making such an
agreement, buy the bulk of the cargo, giving at
prices then fixed upon, such portions of a return
lading as may suit. .
One afternoon, when taking a walk with the
interpreting servant, to one of their houses of
worship, which was situated in the farther
parts of the suburbs, near to the city wall, we
came to the high wall inclosing the grounds
around it. From this wall to the house, there
was an arched entry-way or covered passage,
twenty feet in width, and about twenty-five in
height, having at both ends a gate, or rather
large door, thirty feet apart (the distance from
the street to the building.) Under the arch, and
directly over the inner door, was placed the
gilt figure of a very corpulent man, having on
each side of it a non descript, the upper part of
whose bodies resembled those of very large
Africans, grinning most hideously, thereby


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
265
showing their red gums and white teeth, while
from the waist downward, they had something
of the shape of an alligator. Who does this
great figure represent? I inquired of the Chi-
nese servant, as we stopped, looking a while at
them." That have Josh,” (God) he answered,
with emphasis. Well, if that have Josh, who
are the two on each side meant for? “ Them
other two," continued he, still more emphati-
cally," on both side of Josh, have mean for the
devil.” What have they put devils so near Josh
for? ." Oh!" said he, “that be for to take care
and guard Josh, and see no man hurt him.”
The house is on the back part of the grounds,
and is supported in front by pillars, placed some
few feet apart; between these, are folding doors
of lattice work, which in time of service are
turned back against the pillars, so that the wor-
shipping people, as collected outside the iron
railing, (running round the front and sides of the
house) have a fair view of the services, as they
are being performed by the priests.
The interior of the building consists of one
spacious room, where near the centre of the
back wall, and against the same, considerably
elevated, is the image of Josh (their God; no
devils being necessary for his defense where the
priests are) a very fat and portly personage, in
34


266
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
size equal to four common men, and most splen-
didly gilded. Immediately in front, and raised
to a level with its feet, is the altar, on which
Josh wood (sandal wood) is kept burning day
and night: by this, the house and about, is filled
with a most delightful fragrance, esteemed by
the people as sacred. A few feet from the
altar, and about the centre of the room, stands
a capacious table: on this are deposited the
offerings of the inhabitants, sent in during the
day, to and for the support of Josh; these con-
sist of the choicest of their cooked meats, pastry
fruit, viands, &c.: thus, if a person has a pig or
the like for dinner, the half is sent to this place,
the servant returning for the plate after Josh
has eaten. A little off from the altar is a small
door, scarcely large enough for a man to get
through, opening to a secret passage, which leads
to the dwellings of the priests; these are erected
against the walls, where all the eatables are con-
veyed during the night, and appropriated for
their especial benefit. In this way they are en-
abled to live well; they have also sufficient
address to make the people (no difficult task,
however, because of the latter's stupidity) be-
lieve that Josh has devoured all, and is much
pleased therewith, and that the chin chin (sacri-
fice) has been a good one.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
267
On commencing their devotions, the priests,
to the number of fifty, (as each Josh house has
more or less) form in single file in front of Josh,
each one by his mat, on which they kneel, and
bow down to the image, and kiss the dust: after
this, all rise and follow their leader round the
room, marching in a circle between the altar
and table, all the while chanting ; sometimes
they go nine, at others but three times round;
then kneel again on their mats, and kiss the
dust as often as they made the march about the
room.
There were forty priests attached to this
house, from twelve years old to seventy and up-
'wards. I was told by the head priest, that
every one of their order, belonging to all the
Josh houses in the empire, received an annual
pension from the emperor for their support;
the young priests were then learning, and only
when grown to manhood, could they chin chin to
Josh: both young and old, are all prohibited
from marrying A foreigner, by a present of
one or two pieces of silver to the head priest,
can obtain every information concerning their
mode of worship, living, &c., which he desires.
Having disposed of our cargo, and by the 23d
of October, obtained in return another, of teas,
silks, nankeens, China ware, &c., we were soon


263
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
in readiness for sea; but upon the proposition
of a captain bound for Philadelphia, agreed to
wait until his vessel was ready, it being thought
by keeping in company, until we should pass
Java head, would be for our additional security
against the attacks of Ladrone and Malay pi-
rates, who were numerous at this time. This
ship also carried heavier metal than my own,
and I therefore thought it prudent to stop and
sail with her. The Ontario, Captain J. Whet-
ten, arrived at Canton while we were there, ac-
cording to expectation, and was left by us.


CHAPTER X I V.
PASSAGE FROM CANTON TO NEW YORK.
Departure from Canton, in company with a ship bound for Phila-
delphia.-Watched by piratical proas.—Their fleet discovered
drawn up behind a point.-Desertion of our consort.-Advance
of the pirates.-Fight with the same. They are defeated and
retreat.-Continue on our course.- Arrival at Cracatoa.—Report
of Malay traders brought there by a Dutch despatch schooner.-
Ship on fire.- Violent gales.—Montague light.- Arrival at New
York.-Result of the voyage.
OCTOBER 30th, 1798. In company with our
consort-ship, at 3 P. M. we passed the city of
Macoa, and steered to sea (our consort bound to
Philadelphia) under a moderate breeze from E.
by N.
December 6th. Our consort in company,
passed the Island of Thought-the-way, with the
wind from the southward. Nothing unusual
had occurred, except that for some days our
vessels had been watched by several piratical
proas, who were continually dodging us and
keeping aloof; we, however, kept on our way
through the strait of Sunda. On passing the
south point of Sumatra, our consort then half a


270
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
mile to windward, we opened a bay on the
coast, by doing which, a fleet of piratical proas
were discovered drawn up to meet us: part of
these we had before seen, though the number
was now increased to twenty-nine. These fel-
lows putting on a bold and defying front, judging
from the manner in which their fleet lay posted
behind this point, made it soon become evident
that they were waiting an attack from the ship.
To our surprise, the Philadelphia ship, so
soon as she had the pirates in view, hauled on a
wind for the Java shore, and being a far supe-
rior sailer to the Betsey on a wind, soon left her,
widening the distance between us very rapidly,
disregarding our signals for them to stand by,
as well as the agreement for mutual protection
entered into before starting from Canton. This
did not pass unobserved by the pirates, but em-
boldened by this separation, and confident in the
capture of (ours) the smaller ship, they quit
their anchorage and gave chase after us, in three
divisions, making use of all their sails and oars,
and were very evidently gaining upon us, never
ceasing as they came on, to pass signals of some
kind from one division to another.
Unfortunately, at this moment the wind be-
gan to abate, and finally failed us altogether, so
that our ship, upon a perfectly smooth sea,


FANNING'S VOYAGĖS.
271
moved only at the rate of one and a half miles
per hour. The little preparation we could, was
made to give them a warm and hearty reception;
all hands were at quarters, and with our eight
four-pounders of iron, and two brass long six-
pound guns, each charged with a round shot
and bag of musket balls, we waited the ap-
proach of these marauders.
As a word of encouragement, I stated to the
officers and men, that inasmuch as our consort
had made good his escape, there was now no
resource left but to defend the ship to the last,
yet if every man was firm and undaunted, obey-
ing orders and doing his duty as a freeman,
there was at least a glimmering of hope that
we should come off with flying colors; but
should there, on the contrary, be any flinching,
death by the cimetar or poisoned cruse, as usu-
ally dealt out by these villains, was certainly in
store for us.
The enemy continued his pursuit (as we still
kept on our wind) by pushing forward one of
their divisions directly under our stern, while
within a quarter of a mile on each side of this
were the other two divisions, seemingly advanc-
ing with the intention of falling on our bows, at
the same time the centre should make the attack
at the stern. It was to this last my attention


272
FANNING’S VOYAGES.
was particularly directed; although judging
from the signals, their leader or admiral ap-
peared to be in the right wing, still this was the
division likely to come first into action, and
could it be by any means disabled before the
others came on, we had some expectation the
other two would hesitate, and thus give us a
better chance for future operations, otherwise it
was clearly evident a general onset from the
three would overwhelm us with their immense
superiority in numbers if no other way; to beat
them in detail, therefore, was our plan.
On a nearer approach, they commenced shout-
ing most tumultuously, and opened their fire
upon us; the centre division by this time was
within musket shot distance, and discovered a
set of some of the most hideous animals that
ever the light of the sun shone upon; to add to
this savage appearance, as well as with a view
of intimidating our crew, they increased their
yellings, to a rate that would have been credit-
able to the lungs of a war party of wild Indians.
At this moment I clapped the helm a weather,
hauled up the courses, and the ship, quickly wear-
ing off, brought her broadside as handsomely as
mortal could wish, to bear directly on the proas.
We let them have it, in this the first discharge
dismasting the centre vessel, and disabling two


FANNI NG'S VOYAGES.
273
on each side of her; the effect produced was as
expected; they instantly stopped their head-
way by means of their sweeps, and were appa-
rently making up their minds as to, how next,
we now wore ship again, and the better to as-
sist their meditations, gave them another broad-
side with a suitable proportion of musketry.
Their admiral then concluded to make the
signal for a retreat, which was very promptly
obeyed by the whole body moving off with the
disabled proas, leaving the dismasted one to our
further good will and pleasure. By wearing ship
first on one tack then on the other, we brought
the broadsides alternately to bear, and delivered
their contents in succession, the two brass pieces
throwing with more force and farther, were
shifted every time the ship wore, and directed
upon the wings; for these pieces, while at Can-
ton, some leaden balls had been cast, which I
now found were thrown a third farther than the
iron; we therefore kept them playing on the
enemy so long as one could be seen to reach,
for by this time their whole fleet were clearing
out as fast as they could.
From our frequent wearings, we had finally
got along side the dismasted proa, and now
grappled and hauled her along side. Her crew
had all quit and gone below, but when the board-
35


274
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
ing officer and party gained their deck, its com-
mander came up, and kneeling, laid his head
down, at the same time placing the officer's foot
on his neck, in token of submission and with
so very supplicating a look, that to relieve his
fears, the latter rested the point of his hanger
on the deck, and taking this submissive enemy
by the hand, raised him up, then drawing the
cruse from its scabbard at the pirate's waist,
gave
him to understand that all his men must
come up and deliver their arms also, to him; this
he readily understood, and at his call they seve-
rally appeared, one at a time, each delivering his
arms as he came on deck. After taking and de-
stroying all their armament, to insure which a
strict search was made for the same throughout
their vessel, we let them depart; an unexpected
favor, and one which they acknowledged with
many signs of thankfulness.
By the time we had again made sail on our
course, the piratical fleet were quite out of
sight, having entered a river or creek up the
bay, and near to a town on the Sumatra coast,
while far away in the south-west quarter, not to
be seen from the deck, and only faintly discern-
able from the mast-head, was our valiant con-
sort. I was sure that Mr. G. the supercargo of
that ship (than whom no gentleman has a nicer


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
275
sense of honor) could have had no hand in her
leaving us at the time she did; for on all occa-
sions, while at Canton, and since, he has proved
himself to be at once a generous and real friend;
it is therefore but justice that no blame should
be attached to him in all this affair, as I have
subsequently learned that he was very anxious
to have their vessel bear up to our assistance,
but could by no means prevail upon their cap-
tain so to do, his agreement, for it was his own
proposition, remaining unheeded.
The next day we came to anchor at the har-
bor of the island of Cracatoa, and on the suc-
ceeding day a small Dutch despatch schooner
came in from their settlement at Anjier, having
on board as a passenger, an officer of the garri-
son at that place: of him we learned that a
party of Malay traders from Sumatra, had been
at Anjier, and made known the fact that a fleet
of Ladrone proas had attacked a vessel of war,
their admiral having committed a great error in
mistaking her for a small merchantman, by
whom they had been defeated, losing many men
and one proa; for this deficiency in judgment,
their adıniral had been broke, and another ap-
pointed in his place, they stating as a reason by
which they knew this had been a man-of-war,
was her sending her shot so far, which no tra-


276
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
ding ship could have done. It was this report
of the Sumatra traders, and the probability that
the ship would carry her prize and prisoners to
Cracatoa, there to water, that had brought this
officer; under the impression we would have the
proa's crew as prisoners, he had come prepared
to purchase them for slaves, and was willing to
have paid on an average at the rate of three
hundred dollars per head : he appeared to be
sadly disappointed when informed that their
liberty had been given to them again. “They
are a bad race of fellows," said he, “and are far
from deserving such liberal treatment.”
Our ship, it will be remembered, showed four-
teen guns; four, however, false, but so painted
as exactly to resemble our iron ones. Her
quarters were of man heigth, with hammoc and
boarding netting fore and aft; she was painted
all black, except a narrow red streak around
her, and red ports, and withal, had a crew of
twenty-seven men, who took some pride in giv-
ing their ship as warlike and man-of-war ap-
pearance as possible : this induced the Dutch
officer to remark that he certainly would have
taken our low ship for an armed cruizer. Pre-
vious to his returning to Anjier, we purchased
some green turtle, fruit, and fowls of him.
December 10th. At day-break weighed an-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
277
chor; weather cloudy, with a fresh breeze from
N. N. E. At 6 P. M. Java head bore S. E. eight
leagues distant, and from hence took our de-
parture for New York.
Our passage across the
Indian Ocean, was unattended by any thing
more than the usual occurrences of similar voya-
ges; watching the wind, trimming sails, making
and mending, constituting our daily business.
January 6th, 1799. This sameness was rather
uncomfortably and unprofitably relieved by the
carelessness of a seaman, who had been set to
watch the boiling of a small pot of pitch in the
caboose, which the carpenter, who that day
was busy on the yawl boat, had need for, to pay
her seems with. The man not attending to his
business, let this boil over and take fire, and
with a view to carry it to the lee waist, caught
the pot off, but in so doing burned his hand and
let the whole fall upon the larboard deck; in an
instant the whole, extending from abaſt the
mainmast to abreast the foremast, was in a
bright flame. I was then seated in the cabin,
but hearing the cry of "the ship is on fire !"
and the man's screams, sprang to the deck, and
had his hands bound up in a woolen jacket,
while other blankets and woolen jackets passed
up from below, were wet and spread over the
flames, and around the main and fore rigging,


278
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
and being kept wet, prevented the fire from
running aloft, and finally extinguished it, not
however until it had charred our deck, and
burned through the side of the boat, stowed in
the choks amidships. This was an unfortunate
occurrence, and, by the force with which the
flames raged, placed us for a time in a very peri-
lous situation, distant as we were one thousand
miles from any land. It had such an effect on
my mind as to deter me ever since from suffering
tar, pitch, rosin, or the like, to be heated on ship
board, at sea; I can earnestly recommend the
same prohibition to sea captains, lest they should
fall into a similar painful situation.
January 30. Doubled the Cape of Good
Hope, sounded, and got bottom on bank Lagul-
lus, at one hundred and twenty fathoms, fine sand
and shells. Saw many seals, some albatrosses
and other oceanic birds, and far off in the hori-
zon, to the windward on our larboard beam, a
ship, which we took to be the same that had
left us with the pirates.
February 3d, in latitude 33° 32' south, longi-
tude 150 10' east, were overtaken by a violent
gale from N. W. by W. and obliged to lay to
under storm sails for several hours.
February 24th. Passed the Island of St. He-
lena, under a fine trade wind from the S. E., and


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
279
on the eighth day of March crossed the equator
for the fourth time during the voyage. Arrived
at the inner verge of the gulf stream, we were
again overtaken by a violent storm from the
N. E., and although under bare poles, our little
ship lay over on such a rank heel, as not only to
oblige us to send down on deck the topgallant-
masts and all the light spars and booms from
aloft, but to lower down the lower yards on the
gun rail, and to saw away several stanchions
and feet of the lee bulwarks, to free her from the
weight of water on deck, before she would right,
and lay free during the gale. After laying to
for sixteen hours, the gale veering to the E. N. E.
we bore up, and scud before it. The next day
it so far moderated, as to enable us to sway up
the fore-yard, and set a reefed fore-course; the
following day the wind was round to the S. E.
with heavy rain, yet more moderate; embraced
the opportunity, and sent aloft our yards and
masts again, and made sail on the ship.
April 18th. Had the wind fresh from the
S. S. W. At two P. M. were on soundings; half
past eleven A. M. our lookout gave the welcome
cry of "Land ho !" This proved to be Long
Island, eight or ten leagues to the eastward of
Sandy Hook.
After an absence of two years from home, on


280
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
a voyage around the world, or elsewhere, the
feelings on obtaining sight of one's native land
again, from which they have not heard during
such time, are not to be expressed; thoughts
upon a hundred different subjects fly also through
the mind-a multitude of questions also arise,
tending to give pain by the incapacity there exists
satisfactorily to answer them—while with the
utmost anxiety, the mind flies from one subject
to another; these giving birth to others, are
rapidly followed by those long dormant, but not
forgotten remembrances of the condition in
which all were left, hopes, doubts, fears and
expectations rapidly succeeded each other.
How will be found our near and dear relatives
and friends ? Who still remain
Who still remain among the
living? How many, and which of them have
gone on the long voyage of eternity? Who
have been consigned to the tomb ? and what
shall we find the situation of our beloved coun-
try to be ?
All these questions and others,
crowd through the mind at once, and remain
unappeased until we once more gain the family
circle, where they can be answered.
The wind had now shifted, and commenced
blowing a strong gale from the W. N. W. It
was thought prudent, therefore, to bear up for
Montague Point, and pass round the eastern-
1


282
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
the teas were found to be a little damaged by
the gale we had experienced in the Gulf. Not-
withstanding this drawback, when the same
was sold, cost of ship and outfits deducted, as
well as interest, insurance, and all the charges
on the closing of the accounts, there was still
remaining, to be divided among the owners, a
nett profit of $52,300. The amount paid into
the national treasury as duties on our China
cargo, was more than three times the cost of
the ship and her outfits.
Thus successfully terminated the author's
first voyage around the world, performed under
the blessings of a kind superintending Provi-
dence, without the loss of a man; and this he
believes to be the first American vessel, officered
and manned wholly by native born citizens, that
ever sailed round the world from the port of
New York.



ITNET
Tief Endecott Nweit.
THE BETSEY RETURNING INTO PORT.





CHAPTER XV.
VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD, IN THE CORVETTE SHIP ASPASIA, OF
TWENTY-TWO GUNS, UNDER COMMAND OF THE AUTHOR.
The corvette Aspasia.-Departure from New York.- The British
frigate Cleopatra.- Arrival at Pernambuco.-Landing at the
city.- Reception by the governor.—Present sent off to the ship.-
Invitation from a nobleman.- Visit to his extensive garden.-
Non-existence of Isle Saxenburgh.-Loss of Mr. Sheffield.-
Tristian de Cunha.-Formation of ice to the ship's sides.—Ex-
posed situation of the crew.-Sparrow Bay.-Absence of the
Regulator's crew.-Severity of the gales in Woodward's harbor.
-Excellent cod-fish caught in this harbor.- Formation of ice,
ice islands, &c., with some remarks thereupon.-Departure from
Woodward's harbor.—Double Cape Horn.-St. Mary's.- Arrival
at Valparaiso.- Are there shortly detained.-Whaling ground.
-Arrival at Canton.-Visit to the interior of the city.-Brush
with a British sixty-four gun ship in the Borneo Sea.-Return
to New York.
In January of 1800, the Aspasia, a corvette
built ship, pierced for twenty-two guns, and
just from the stocks, was purchased, and provi-
sioned, and armed, by a company of gentlemen
in New York, for an exploring and sealing ex-
pedition to the South Seas. Whatever, on so
long and hazardous a voyage was thought
would in any wise be connected with the health
and comfort of the officers and crew, was fur-


284
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
nished in the most abundant manner. Her
equipment consisted of twenty-two very neat
and bandsome six and nine pound guns, with a
suitable proportion of muskets, small arms, and
all the munitions of war requisite for a ship of
her size, she was commissioned by the govern-
ment or president of the United States of Ame-
rica, as a letter of marque during the general war
then raging among the nations, five officers hold-
ing the rank of lieutenant, a master, surgeon,
eight midshipmen, with a competent number of
petty officers and men, composed the company,
the whole under command of the author. Early
in May, the ship hauled off in the stream, and
thence dropped down to the quarantine ground
at Staten Island, preparatory to starting.
May 11th, 1800. At 8 A. M. got the ship
under weigh, and bore up to pass the Narrows,
having a moderate breeze from the N. N. W.
and pleasant weather; this, as we passed the
east bank, fell away to a calm, and was suc-
ceeded by a sea breeze from the southward,
with which the ship was beat out to sea, ac-
companied by the British frigate Cleopatra,
who, though at anchor as we crossed her stern,
immediately hove up and filled away, keeping
close under our lee, and within speaking dis-
tance. At 4 P. M. backed the topsails, and dis-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
285
charged our pilot, at the same time taking leave
of a number of friends and acquaintances who
had thus far accompanied us, and were now to
return to the city in the pilot boat, after which
trimmed the sails on the starboard tack, and
stood to the eastward, our neighbor, the frigate,
doing the same.
From this frigate several impressed American
seamen had been taken by the authorities while
she was at anchor under the guns of the fort
on Governor's Island ; doing which had very
greatly displeased her commander, who, it was
said, had threatened to retaliate, and replace
these lost men from any American vessel, upon
the first opportunity. After this transaction, a
party of officers from each ship had unfor-
tunately met at a public house on Staten Island,
while the vessels lay at anchor near each other
off the same place, and between whom many
unfriendly observations had been exchanged,
thus very greatly increasing their irritation; to-
gether with these was the fact, after we had beat
over the bar, of our piping to quarters, spunging
out the guns, and so securing the tompions as to
keep the guns dry while at sea. This, though
merely a precautionary measure, and performed
without the slightest idea of offending, had, as
I was afterwards informed by the pilot on board


288
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
induced us to stop at their city; we gave an-
swer, by stating, the Aspasia to be a private
armed ship, commissioned by the government of
the United States of America, and as bound to
the South Seas and China, was in some want
for sundry articles, required by her company on
the lengthy voyage, which it was necessary to
obtain before we proceeded farther. The go-
vernor expressed himself much pleased with the
visit, it being by the first vessel of war of our na-
tion ever at their port, and not only granted us
liberty to obtain the supply of refreshments
which had been our principal object in stopping,
but at the same time directed an officer to show
us the city, market, &c. After a hasty walk
around this, we returned on board, but had not
long been there, before a launch came along
side, bringing a present from his Excellency;
this was the four quarters of a fat bullock, some
excellent mutton, vegetables, fruit, &c.
A day or two after, myself and officers re-
ceived an invitation from an aged nobleman,
whose palace was situated a short distance be-
yond the bridge over the river, which passes
through the southern part of the city, to spend
an afternoon and evening with him; this we
accepted. Our party was received at the front
gate by his steward, (a very polite personage)


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
289
who led the way through the garden, where
some little time was passed in viewing and in-
specting his extensive menagerie of wild beasts,
as also a numerous collection of the feathered
race, from the Brazilian forests. Among others
of very rich plumage, was the bird of Paradise.
In the centre path of the garden, stood a foun-
tain, from which several figures spouted the
water in different directions, while immediately
around, were trees bearing all kinds of tropical
fruits, and a variety of shrubbery and flowers,
filling the air with a most delightful fragrance;
it was a most lovely spot, though but very poorly
described.
We were then conducted to the palace, and
introduced to its proprietor, (whom the people
of the city call the king of Pernambuco) an aged
and very corpulent gentleman, moving about
very heavily; he received us with much cor-
diality, and appeared to be pleased at our ac-
ceptance of his invitation, made a vast many
inquiries respecting the institutions, laws, and
government of our country, which our surgeon,
who spoke Latin, was able satisfactorily to an-
swer. Cake, wine, a variety of dried and other
fruits, were then handed round, and the evening
passed off, with much gratification experienced
by us at so agreeable an entertainment, as was
37


290
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
spread before us by this sociable and hospitable
nobleman. Nor was he the only person who
manifested so friendly and courteous a bearing
towards us; the same treatment was expe-
rienced at the hands of his Excellency the Go-
vernor, and the officers of the city, port, and
garrison. Returning to the ship, after having
received a supply of pigs, poultry, vegetables,
fruit, &c., we weighed anchor and stood out to
sea, highly gratified with our stop at Pernam-
buco.
While proceeding to the southward, we en-
deavored to get sight of the Island of Saxen-
burgh, but after passing over its situation as
placed on the charts, and spending three days
in search for it, without discovering the least
sign of land, though favored by clear weather,
we stood again to the south, perfectly satisfied
that no island is in existence near the spot
where Isłe Saxenburgh is laid down on the
charts. Our search might have been prolonged,
but on our way we intended touching at Tris-
tian de Cunha, to look for seals, as also at the
Island of South Georgia, notwithstanding it was
now mid-winter there. At this last place we
expected to find the crew of a vessel called the
Regulator, belonging to the owners of the As-
pasia, which had been there cast away some


292
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
at this moment, the ship under a press of back
sail, had stern way on her; ropes were thrown
over, and these all succeeded in catching hold
of, and were thus hauled on deck, except poor
Sheffield. For some moments, his cries away a
stern could be heard above the noise of the ele-
ments; but soon, all was silent, and though we
kept the ship as near the spot as possible during
the remainder of the night, under the faint hope
of finding his body, at least, at daylight; still
when this again shone around, not a vestige of
him, of the boat, or any thing thrown over, could
be seen. This unhappy accident cast a gloom
over the ship's company for a length of time.
At 8 A. M. all the three islands of Tristian de
Cunha were in sight, when the wind moderating
and becoming more favorable, we were en-
abled to work up towards them. At eleven,
were close to Inaccessible Island, and sent an
officer in the boat to examine it, who shortly
after returned, finding landing altogether im-
practicable; the wind being now still more fa-
vorable, we stood for the largest or main island,
and made it a league to the westward of the N.
E. point on its north coast, thence steering along
shore to the eastward, we rounded the N. E.
point, and discovered a small bay, where, as we
landed on a beach at its head, lay a flock or


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
293
rookery of sea-elephants. After an examination
of the bay and shore in its vicinity, we pro-
ceeded some miles in the boat along the south
shore, without discovering any seals, and then
returned on board, making sail to the south-
west. From our observations, it appeared that
a ship might anchor and ride snugly at this little
bay, with the wind to the westward, and at the
same time fill up her water at a cascade on the
north side of the bay. Our sportsmen, here ob-
tained a sufficient number of sea-hens, which,
when cooked in a sea-pie, made a mess for all
hands.
A few days previous to our arrival at South
Georgia, the ship, being at the time to the west-
ward of, and between it and the New South
Shetland Islands, was overtaken by a violent
gale from the south, and hove to, and lay under
storm stay-sails only; this was the winter season
in this hemisphere, the weather also was ex-
tremely cold: while thus lying too, the ice from
the spray of the short and breaking sea, made so
fast, on her weather side, as to heel her over
two or more streaks to windward, the violence
of the gale to the contrary notwithstanding.
This ice, so long as some expedient was not
adopted to break it off, increased so rapidly, and
withal so hard and flinty, as to bid fair to sink


294
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
the ship; the utmost endeavors of the men with
their handspikes to break it off, being found to
be unavailing and fruitless. In this dilemma,
the master was directed to wear, and lay her
on the other tack, which being executed, of
course gave her a very rank heel, but, as was
expected would be the case, the sea water soft-
ened the ice, so that the men were able to break
it off and shovel it over. To make use of every
advantage, that the men might be enabled to
hold out on this severe duty, (the thermometer
in an exposed situation being 36° below zero)
they were divided into three watches, relieving
each other every half hour: this was the more
necessary, for while the severity of the gale
continued, as fast as the ice was cleared from
the lee side and deck, a mass of it would be
collected on the weather side, so that every few
hours we were obliged to wear ship; this was
the only way in which, with the untiring and
spirited exertions of the officers and men, she
was kept from foundering.
Our excellent surgeon
was not unengaged
while these duties were being attended to, for
*
* Doctor G. Smith, of New York city ; his kind disposition and
attention to the sick and wounded, together with a regard for their
welfare, endeared him to all on board, and the many happy and
agreeable hours spent in his company during this voyage, makes it
a pleasure for the author to bear this feeble testimony to his worth.


296
FANNING’S VOYAGES.
to the south-east along the coast. On arriving
abreast of Sparrow Bay, where it was expected
the crew of the Regulator would be found, we
hove to, myself, with an officer and boat's crew,
landing near the wreck of the R. Their habi-
tation was found deserted, and from information
afterwards obtained, it turned out that an Eng-
lish elephant oil ship had touched at this bay,
at the close of the past season; to the captain of
which the officers and crew of the Regulator
had disposed of her cargo, consisting of rising
14,000 fur seal skins, with the sails, cables, an-
chors, rigging, &c., saved from the wreck, and after
putting all the provisions on board, had taken
passage in the same ship for home. Finding
nothing left for the owners, we concluded to lay
the ship by for the night, and early in the morn-
ing to proceed along the coast to Woodward
harbor.
At daylight, bore up, passed the Bay of Isl-
ands, so called by Captain Cook, and at 10 A.
M. were in the mouth of Woodward harbor, the
wind being then light and unsteady, mostly
ahead. After furling the sails, we warped the
ship into the harbor to an anchor. Here we
met the English ship Morse, on board of which
vessel was one of the Regulator's former crew,


FANNING’S VOYAGES.
297
from whom the above particulars, in relation to
that vessel, her officers and crew, were obtained.
The Aspasia now lay moored with three an-
chors ahead, and two out at the stern; this was
necessary because of the gusts of wind which
here whirl down the gullies, a westerly gale par-
ticularly, blowing directly out of the harbor, as it
does, comes pouring down suddenly and heavily
on a vessel, striking her first on one bow, then on
the other, causing her to sheer and roll as much
as though she was in a gale at sea; this was
the case with our ship, notwithstanding her
yards were all down, and the topmasts launched
and housed. In the mountainous land which
surrounds this harbor, there are a number of
gullies (called gulches, by the seamen); it is by
these the gusts of wind in the heavy gales come
rushing one after the other, with a rapidity and
force that forbid any attempt to look to wind-
ward, ofttimes throwing the water over us, as
in a heavy storm at sea. Some idea of the
same may be had from the fact, that the light
cedar whale-boat moored at the stern of the
ship, and held by the warp at her bows, has
been taken up by these violent gusts, and turned
over and over, before again striking the water,
the same as a feather attached to a thread, and
blowing in the wind.
38


298
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
Disappointed in not receiving assistance from
the Regulator's crew, from whom much had
been expected on our setting out, it became ne-
cessary to prepare for prosecuting our business
with additional energy, as there was every rea-
son to believe, that soon after the winter should
break up, and the summer season set in, many
vessels in the same pursuit would arrive at this
place. As little can be done here in collecting
fur seals without the aid of shallops, we set to
work to supply ourselves with them, by first
raising and decking our launch for one, then
purchasing another, from an officer who had
charge of her, and which had in the previous
season been built here by the crew of an Eng-
lish elephant oil ship, then, taking a spare top-
mast of the ship's for a keel, and a spare main
yard for a mast, together with some fifty large
oak knees roughly hewn, that had been put on
board at New York, to dagger knee, or support
our battery-deck, should the weight of metal
placed thereon render this additional support
necessary; with these materials, and a number
of three inch oak plank, which had been used
to floor the ballast over, and sundry articles pro-
cured from the wreck of the Regulator, we pro-
ceeded to lay the keel of the third vessel on an
iceberg, in a valley at the starboard side of the


FANNI NG'S VOYAGES.
299
harbor. The officers of the English oil ship
made merry at the commencement of this un-
dertaking, but still we had the gratification of
answering their ridicule, by launching within
the time of fifty days, a completely finished ves-
sel of upwards of thirty tons. On trial, she
proved to be a first rate sea boat, as well as the
fastest sailer and best shallop among the fleet
in the country
As was anticipated, so it turned out; when
the summer season set in, seventeen sail of
sealing vessels, mostly ships, with their shallops,
arrived at this island. We had rather the start,
however, for our men having been previously
placed at the different stations, and aided as
they were by the fast sailing little vessel, were
enabled, out of the 112,000 fur seal skins taken
by the crews of all vessels during the season, to
secure 57,000 for our share, a little over the half.
By the activity and industry of the officers and
men, these were procured, cured, and stowed
on board ship, ready for sea, when the season
closed.' The vessel we had here built (by this
time become quite celebrated) was sold to an
English captain, for one hundred and twenty
guineas, who very good naturedly remarked,
that “Yankee enterprise and perseverance must
ever stand pre-eminent."


300
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
While the greater portion of the ship’s com-
pany were busy in procuring our cargo, a few,
(among whom were the surgeon, and at times
myself) consisting of a midshipman and boat's
crew, remained to keep the ship: these were
frequently out on hunting and fowling excur-
sions, to obtain fresh provisions, as well as to
pick up what scattering fur seals might be met
with on the same. On one of these excursions
from the ship, the surgeon and myself had
strolled, or rather climbed, to an elevated pre-
cipice of the mountain; from this position a
wide and extensive view of the ocean was had,
covered with fleets of immense iceislands. The
brightness of a clear sun shining on these isl-
ands, and on the sea as it broke against their
base, formed a view, which for grandeur and
beauty, is seldom if ever surpassed. The posi-
tion we occupied was an acre or upwards of
table level, and from this to descend to our
starting point, was a performance by no means
easy, in consequence of the steepness and slip-
periness of the descent, for we had found, in this
instance at least, that it was easier to go up
than to come down hill; however, by exercising
all due caution, we at last safely attained more
comfortable quarters.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
301
On the 19th of September, our lieutenant of
marines, while prosecuting his favorite sport of
fishing, was so fortunate as to discover a very
welcome addition to our supply of fresh provi-
sions. He had but just anchored his boat by
the edge of the kelp, not dreaming of such great
luck in store, when a fine cod, some eighteen
inches or so in length, was taken by him; this
was followed by his frequently catching them
in pairs. A mess of these were sent to our
neighbors, the captain and officers on board the
English ship Morse, who were equally astonished
with ourselves at finding cod-fish in these
waters, never having dreamed thereof, and ex-
pressed themselves as much indebted for the
present and information. These fish were found
to be the largest in deep water, or the deeper
the water the larger the fish; some were taken
weighing between thirty and forty pounds. A
car, made out of a large cask, was kept well
filled with them, and enabled us to afford every
mess a supply, when desired.
The iceislands, bergs, &c., formed during the
severe winter frosts, and storms of snow and
sleet in this high latitude, commence origin-
ally at the valleys between the mountains,
which last also surround the bays, storm after
storm, and snow drifts, congealed into solid ice,


302
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
not only fills the valley to nearly the mountain
top, but also makes out from the shore or beach
at the head of the bay, until it extends as far as
the capes, the outer edge making an inwardly
curved line from one cape to the other, and
spreading from mountain to mountain, over the
entire surface of the bay, the thickness varying
from a few, to many hundred feet. In the
spring of the year, or rather summer, particu-
larly in heavy rain storms, vast bodies of this
ice crack off, across the entire width of the bay,
being in size of greater or less magnitude, ac-
cording to the extent and breadth of the bay.
When these herculean bodies fall over into the
sea, the noise is as if it were caused by the dis-
charge of thousands of cannon at once, and ap-
parently shake the earth to its very founda-
tion; these detached portions afterwards again
breaking into two or more pieces, are the ice-
islands, bergs, &c., met with in these seas.
When the water in the bay is sufficiently
deep, which frequently is the case, they do not
ground, but if the wind is off shore, drift out to
sea immediately. In this manner, one mass
breaks off after another, until the last breaks at
the shore, so that the front rests on the land;
the breaking of course then ceases, and leaves a
perpendicular front to the main mass across the


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
303
valley, of several hundred feet in height. On
this, whenever the sun shines, various rich and
brilliant colors are to be observed, giving to the
main front a light blue shade. This body, how-
ever, gradually melts away during the summer,
leaving from one to two-thirds remaining in the
valley, when winter again sets in.
It is very advisable, that every commander
who ventures into these regions, should be well
acquainted with this formation, progression, and
time of the breaking up of the ice, and also the
formation of iceislands, for it would be, to any
not possessed of such knowledge, extremely ha-
zardous to venture into one of these bays du-
ring said seasons, as the risk of being instantly
overwhelmed and destroyed, is exceedingly
great. The packed iceislands, as they are
termed, are several layers or flakes, piled one
upon another; these are from the ice which
makes first at the shore, thence spreading out
to sea, a distance of several miles or leagues, in
thicknesses of from one to two or more feet;
the outer edge, the heaving of the sea in a heavy
gale, by continually lifting and settling it, is
broken off in different sizes, and as detached, is
by the tossing waves, thrown upon the main
and still firm or fast body, sliding far on it; as
the gale increases, flake succeeds flake; these,


304
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
congealed by the frost, form an immense body,
and after being piled up two, three, or more
layers, their weight becomes so great, as to
break off again from the firmer ice, and these
are what are called the packed iceislands,
which of course, when the wind changes, drift
out to sea, and not unfrequently, are met with
in portions of a mile in length.
A navigator, in endeavoring to make a pas-
sage among ice, should have much experience,
and be exceedingly cautious in his progress, as
such navigation is always attended with very
foggy and thick weather. The first appearance
of a change from the winter to the summer sea-
son at South Georgia, is discoverable in No-
vember; the ice then begins to break away,
and
the seals to come up; this is followed with an
immediate destruction of their numbers by the
sealers, with as much briskness as a due regard
to the skins being kept well conditioned, will
admit of.
On the 8th of February, 1801, the sealing
season being over, our ship was made ready for
sea; shortly after left her moorings, and was
got under weigh to leave the harbor, but meet-
ing a heavy swell from the sea at its mouth, and
taken aback at the same time, we were obliged
to clew all up, let go the sheet and best bower


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
305
anchors in twenty-eight fathoms, to bring her
up. In this narrow and dangerous position we
passed the hours very uncomfortably, until the
next morning, when the wind coming fresh from
out the harbor, and from the land, relieved us;
we instantly weighed anchor and were soon
safely out to sea. After navigating between
four or five days in the midst of islands, bergs,
and floats of ice, accompanied with thick fogs
and misty weather, by this means rendered addi-
tionally perilous, we at last attained a clear
and open sea, crowding all sail to double Cape
Horn.
February 25th. Sounded, and got ground in
seventy fathoms on the bank to the northward
of the Falkland Islands.
March 2d. Had sight of Cape St. John's, the
most eastern promontory of Staten Land;
passed the cape at meridian, and at 4 P. M. it
bore N. N. W. distant ten leagues. In our pas-
sage, while doubling Cape Horn, we frequently
had heavy gales, being mostly from the west-
ward, and unpleasant weather, with snow
squalls and sleet.
On the 16th, had sight of Cape Noire, the
most southwestern cape of Terra del Fuego ;
after stretching a league to the westward of it,
we tacked ship, and stood off to the S. W. On
39


306
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
the outer rocky islets, we could distinctly see,
with the aid of a glass, great numbers of seals.
April 7th. At 10 A. M. had sight of the Isl-
and of Mocha, bearing N. N. E. half E. about
twelve leagues distant. Two days after, at 3
P. M. came to an anchor at the Island of St.
Mary's, on the coast of Chili, there to wood and
water, and dry our fur skins; at this place we
found a small fleet of American sealers, being
five ships and a schooner, from whom we learned
there were upwards of thirty sail of American
sealing vessels on this coast, whose cargoes were
destined for the China market.
April 30th. Our sea stock of wood and water
being completed, we weighed anchor, and laid
the ship's course for Valparaiso, in order there
to obtain refreshments, of which we were some-
what in need. At that place the ship was de-
tained by the unjust proceedings of the go-
vernor, to whom the captains of the Spanish
merchant ships then in port had presented a
complaint, wherein it was stated they suspected
the Aspasia to be an English cruiser. (England
and Spain were at this date engaged in war.)
Some of these worthies even went so far as to
state their willingness to testify to it as a fact,
being very sure we had two sets of papers, the
American commission being merely a cover for


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
307
our hostile character.
However, after an in-
vestigation into the matter had been held, to the
complete satisfaction of his Excellency, pro-
ving our ship entirely clear of charge, he apolo-
gized for the detention and trouble to which we
had been put, and suffered us to depart in peace,
which we accordingly did, after obtaining the
desired refreshments.
On the 23d, we took our departure, and pro-
ceeded down the coast as far as Coquimbo,
thence across the Pacific to China. We fol-
lowed the old and beaten track of the Spanish
galleons across the Pacific, and on the seventh
of August 1801, at 9 A. M. had sight of part of
the Phillipine Islands, being Tinian and Saypan,
bearing five leagues distant. At this time, and
for the twenty-four hours previous, large shoals
of the sperm whales, black fish, and porpoises
also, in great numbers, were spouting and gam-
boling about; in fact, the ocean appeared to be
quite alive with them, and sundry other kinds
of smaller fish.
On rounding the ship to under the lee of
Saypan, it is difficult to conceive, unless by
those who have been thus gratified, how greatly
we were refreshed and delighted by the fra-
grance from off the beautiful green foliage of
this island, after so lengthy a passage. At this


308
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
island we lay off and on for several hours, wait-
ing for the boat which had been sent ashore to
obtain some fresh meat; she shortly appeared,
bringing along a large bullock which had been
singled out from the herd, and shot for our
especial accommodation, together with some
cocoa-nuts and limes; these safely deposited on
board, we bore
up
with a fresh trade for Canton,
hove in sight of and passed the Bashee Islands
September 2d, and on the 6th anchored in Ma-
coa roads. The following day, after procuring
a pilot and chop, weighed anchor for Wampoo,
where we arrived on the eighth, and moored the
ship.
The next morning I proceeded for Canton to
complete the necessary agreements with a Hung
merchant, secure the ship at the factory, and
make all the arrangements for disposing of our
present cargo, and purchasing another, which
the manner of conducting business with this
people render requisite. Every thing was mov-
ing forward as usual; the same routine, the same
regulations, not an alteration or improvement to
be observed: the Chinese are a peculiar people
in this respect, and tenaciously adhere to old
customs and forms.
Some few days after, by a friendly invitation
from the brother of the Hung merchant with


FANNING’S VOYAGES.
309
whom our ship was secured, a mandarin of high
order, the author visited the inside of the city of
Canton, where but very few foreigners it is
asserted are ever admitted. Our little party,
consisting of the mandarin, myself, and the
guard, made the best of our way through the
suburbs, and arrived in good season at the city
gate; here were some soldiers at post, who paid
the mandarin military honors as he passed in.
Not many yards had we advanced, however,
into the streets of the city, before a motley col-
lection of all ages and sizes, from among the
lower orders, attracted by the sight of so strange
an animal as a Christian among them, began to
follow on after us, keeping up a continued cry of
“ Hi yah, Fonqui, (hallo Christian) how came
you here ?" which salutations receiving no re-
sponse, were followed by bits of bones, dirt,
rags, &c. thrown at the said unoffending Chris-
tian. Some of the adults were treated with a
severe bambooing in return for this rudeness,
a very speedy dispersion of their numbers fol-
lowing, so salutary a lesson on the leaders, as
inflicted by the mandarin's orders to his body
guard, the like treatment was not again expe-
rienced by us while we remained here.
The streets are mostly narrow, many not
over twelve or twenty feet in width; some, viz.


310
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
China street, being in general somewhat wider
than those of the suburbs; they are, however,
kept in a very cleanly condition. The houses
were in most instances from one to two stories
in heighth, built principally of brick, and co-
vered with tile, much also like those of the
suburbs. After passing several hours in visit-
ing the public buildings, manufactories, &c., we
returned through the same gate by which we had
entered, without discovering any thing extraor-
dinary or greatly different from what may be
seen in the suburbs.
A circumstance tending to show the super-
stitious belief and attachment this people have
in and for their God, Josh, took place some days
after our cargo of sandal wood had been dis-
posed of. On that day there lay at the ship's
quarter a hawpoo-boat, (the common term for a
family boat) belonging to and on board of which
was a very clever mandarin, from whom we had
received many favors; he was at the time loun-
ging in his parlor, but came out on the boat's
deck on my calling him, and then asked what I
wished, “ There, sir,” said I, handing a piece of
red-heart hickory, taken from the lot our stew-
ard was splitting up, and which was afterwards
hewn round in imitation of merchantable sandal
wood, “is a cum shaw (a gift) of Josh wood for


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
311
you.” “Does it” he asked rather doubtingly,
“have true Josh wood ?” “Why, you have
Josh man, (you are a worshipper of Josh) you
can ser va (know) that thing, I no can, not being
a Josh man.” He then turned the piece over
and over, weighing it in his hands, not quite sa-
tisfied in his mind about the purity of the article,
after smelling it again, he still doubtingly in-
quired, “Truly, does it have true (is it true) Josh
wood ?” “You have Josh man, and must ser
va that,” I replied. Again the close inspection,
the weighing and smelling was renewed; yet
there was no cheating him, for in a moment or
two, shaking his head, he returned the piece,
saying, “I much chin chin you, but truly he
have no Josh wood." “Never mind, never
mind, Josh won't know the difference; you keep
it, and chin ching with it to him, (sacrifice by
fire) be assured it will answer.” “Hi yah,” (an
exclamation of surprise and doubt) said he,
as he turned to re-enter his cabin,“ how can do
that thing, and cheat Josh ? suppose any man
do such thing, Josh kill he at once.” This san-
dal wood is kept constantly burning on the
altars before their God, Josh, at the houses of
worship: it is highly impregnated with essen-
tial oil, and when burning sends forth a strong
fragrant perfume.
As soon as our return cargo was purchased


312
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
and received on board we made preparation for
sea, and on the 25th of October were under sail
once more, bound to New York.
In the Borneo Sea, early in the morning,
when, in company with a fourteen gun brig,
three ships were at one time in sight from our
deck; two of these very soon made sail and
stood away, while the third, a large ship, which
we imagined to be a French Indiaman in dis-
guise, bore down towards us; this impression
was greatly strengthened, by noticing as they
came nearer, the red caps and shirts of the men,
and the assumed broken English, in which the
hailing officer demanded the name and destina-
tion of our vessel; his gruff hail, was retorted
by a “what ship is that?" of course, such a one
sided affair as our mutual questioning, without
any answer made it was not calculated to
throw much light on the subject; so that firing,
as a more speedy mode of determining the ques-
tion, was soon commenced. This was conti-
nued with but little damage to our side, until
our opponent was observed to be opening a
lower tier of guns, which it was quite impossible
to have discovered before. This operation gave
more information than an hour's firing could
possibly have done, and without waiting until
such fresh evidence of his strength was exerted
upon us, ą parley was lad, and our united mis-


CHAPTER X VI.
VOYAGE OF THE BRIG UNION, CAPTAIN ISAAC PENDLETON, TO THE
SOUTH SEAS AND PACIFIC.
The Brig Union.-Departure from New York.-Discover Borders
Island.—Build a schooner of forty tons, in which the first officer
sails to king George the Third's Sound.—Brig and schooner leave
Union harbor.--Discovers the South Antipodes.—Engagement
with Mr, Lord.—Arrival of the Union at Tongataboo.—Massacre
of the captain and others.-Hostile intentions upon the brig.-
Escape of a white woman from the savages. —Her account of the
massacre of the crew of the ship Duke of Portland.--Destruction
of the renegado Doyle.-Wreck of the brig, and loss of all her
crew.-Conduct of Mr. Lord of Sydney.
The brig Union, Captain Isaac Pendleton, was
well fitted out, and amply supplied with the re-
quirements for one of those expeditions, under the
author's agency, similar to the voyages of the
Betsey and Aspasia. Never, perhaps, was a voy-
age entered upon with brighter, and never did a
vessel sail with more encouraging prospects than
this brig. Her commander an upright man, and
able navigator, was experienced, and possessed
of every desirable capacity, successfully to pro-
secute this fishery and commercial trade. Mr.
D. Wright, the first officer, had served out a


316
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
mander of such vessel as the same company
contemplated sending out, the following season.
In accordance with these instructions, after
leaving New York and doubling the Cape of
Good Hope, the brig's course was shaped for
the Crozetts. After passing over their situation
as laid down, with no prospect of finding them,
she proceeded with all despatch for the coast of
New Holland. On making the south-west cape
of this coast, she ran it down a mile or more
from its shore, until arrived at king George the
Third's Sound, where was found a good harbor,
wooding, and watering. At Vancouver's Seal
Island, although it was the period in the season
to expect the seals would be up in great num-
bers, there was nevertheless not above thirty op
the island. Here, after remaining some time,
without any others arriving to increase their
numbers, and having discovered none of these
animals, while tracing to the wëstward, it was
concluded most advisable to proceed and ex-
amine the coast to the eastward. After survey-
ing this a considerable distance, the Union was
overtaken by a heavy gale, and driven to sea
before it abated, some degrees to the S. S. E.
from the coast; when the wind began to mode-
rate, they laid their course to the north-east, and
in latitude 35° 47' south, longitude 136° 41'


318
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
rigging being on board the Union in sufficient
quantity
On the return of this schooner to Union har-
bor in Borders Island, from her trip to king
George the Third's Sound, where no farther
encouragement respecting its being good sealing
ground had been obtained, than on the first
visit, Captain Pendleton concluded to proceed
to Port Jackson, New South Wales, from which
place both vessels, after obtaining an addition
to their provisions and water, were to start in
search of islands placed on some ancient charts,
and said to have been discovered by Tasman,
with other early navigators; thus improv-
ing the time until the sealing season in this
hemisphere should return.
Accordingly the Union sailed from Borders
Island, accompanied by her tender, bound for
the western mouth of Basis Straits, through
which, unaided by charts or directions, he found
his way, without the slightest accident, being,
as is believed, the first American vessel which
had passed through, and arrived at Sidney, near
Port Jackson, whence completely refreshed and
recruited, he sailed with the intention of ex-
amining the southern coast of Van Diemen's
Land, as well as to make what discoveries he
could of other islands.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
319
Towards the conclusion of a lengthened
cruise, and about the setting in of the sealing
season, he had the good fortune to rediscover
the Island of South Antipodes: here they found
large rookeries of fur seals, but finding no har-
bor in which to moor the vessels, after leaving
an officer and eleven men thereon, to take the
seals and cure their skins, well provisioned, he
was content to make the best of his way back
to New South Wales. Notwithstanding the
very flattering prospects now before him of
making a most splendid voyage, increased al-
most to a certainty, from the determination of
the men left at the island to have a full cargo
of first quality skins, ready by the time he
should return, he was induced by some tempta-
tion laid before him, by a Mr. Lord, merchant
at Sydney, to discharge those skins already on
board, amounting to 14,000, collected at Bor-
ders Island, and place them under the care of,
and in said Lord's store. An agreement was
then entered into between them, by which the
brig was to proceed on joint account for the
Fee Jee Islands, to procure a cargo of sandal
wood for the Canton market, the merchant fur-
nishing the requisite means for trading, by
which the wood was to be purchased.


320
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
In pursuance of this new engagement, the
Union sailed from Sydney, touching first at the
Island of New Amsterdam, or Tongataboo, to
engage a native, speaking the Fee Jee language,
to proceed with them, to act as interpreter. Ar-
rived there, the captain, accompanied by Mr. J.
Boston, agent for Mr. Lord, and a boat's crew,
were all most inhumanly massacred, soon after
landing
On the succeeding day, (October 20, 1804)
Captain P. not yet returning, Mr. Wright, the
then commanding officer, became uneasy and
alarmed; his suspicions and fears were farther
increased, by observing that the chiefs and na-
tives, while unhesitatingly declining to come on
board, endeavored by signs to convince him that
the captain wished another boat and crew to be
sent to the shore, in order to bring off the hogs,
&c., which were there said to be collected for
them. In answer to all these, Mr. Wright gave
them to understand, that the captain must first
return, and they keep farther off, and desist
from coming any nearer to the vessel. The ca-
noes had by this time become very numerous
around the brig, and were all well filled with
warriors, gradually getting, nearer and nearer,
until finally the natives became so bold as to
close up along side, many of their numbers


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
321
armed with clubs, and other implements of war,
clambering up the sides and into the channels;
but noticing the preparations going forward on
deck, for immediate and stout defense, and the
charging of cannon, &c.; while Mr. Wright
once more beckoned them off, as pointing to the
guns, the threat to fire upon them, in case of
non-obedience, was repeated; they left the brig
and drew off.
At this moment another canoe was observed
advancing very quickly from the shore, and to
their surprise contained with the others a white
woman, standing at the bows; after passing
through, and gaining the space within the circle
formed by other canoes, and getting nearer the
brig, the chief the while drawing all attention
to himself, from the earnestness of his manner,
as addressing the woman, she suddenly sprang
overboard towards the vessel, and upon rising
again to the surface, in few words informed Mr.
Wright that the captain had been murdered,
and the farther intention there was to capture
the brig. To deter the natives from pursuing
and overtaking her, a volley of musketry was
discharged between them; this had the desired
effect for a moment, but no sooner had the noise
and their surprise subsided, than a most deter-
mined attack was commenced; far now from


322
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
being frightened at the rapid and heavy dis-
charges of cannon and musketry, encouraged
too by a great increase to their numbers, they
bade defiance to every thing; the sinking of a
canoe, or scattering amidst the survivors, of the
mutilated limbs of others, the groanings of the
dying, and floating bodies of some more spirited
than prudent of their party, were regarded, if at
all, but for a moment; a fiend-like determina-
tion seemed to goad them on, and a settled re-
solution, cost what it might, to capture the
Union. As a most speedy termination to the
battle, Mr. Wright ordered the cables to be cut,
and sail to be made; this was the more advisa-
ble, as a farther sacrifice of their lives would
scarcely have been justifiable. Undeterred
they still continued the fight, shouting and hoot-
ing, until the vessel had left the harbor, and
was out to sea; they then ceased their exer-
tions, and returned to the shore.
The woman then proceeded in giving some
account of what had come under her observa-
tion, on shore, by stating, although the plans
were well matured, and the minds of the chiefs
made up to cut the brig off, it was politically
concluded as best to receive the strangers under
the guise of friendship; this appearance was
well carried out, the captain, Mr. Boston, and


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
323
the crew, after landing being conducted over a
hill, and entirely out of sight of those on board :
here, in the midst of a parcel of trees, and sur-
rounded by immense numbers of the natives,
they were all massacred. After this, the plan
for completing their enterprise, was to request,
another boat might be sent for the hogs, roots,
and fruit, said to be awaiting them at the shore,
whose crew were to be similarly treated.
Wishing to escape and save the remainder of
the crew, this woman had succeeded in per-
suading the chiefs to believe, that by taking her
along in the canoe with those who were to
make the above request, she could induce the
commanding officer to consent and send another
boat; which resulted as has been already
detailed.
-Eliza Mosey (as she stated her name to be)
had arrived at this island in a ship called the
Duke of Portland, commanded by Captain L.
Melon; instigated by the cruel advice of two
renegadoes, a white man named Doyle, and a
Malay previously left on the island, who were
far greater savages, and more blood thirsty than
the natives themselves, these last had been in-
duced to cut the ship off, and massacre all her
company, except Eliza, a colored woman, a de-
" crepid old man, and four boys, whose lives
1


324
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
V
Doyle had spared, that they might assist him in
discharging vessels, afterwards in burning and
tearing them to pieces, with the double inten-
tion of securing the iron, and preventing any
possibility of detection, or causing alarm to such
vessels as might chance to stop for provisions
and refreshments. To secure the capture of
these as they should successively arrive, as well
as to gain favor with the leading chiefs, and
gratify their savage dispositions, Doyle continu-
ally presented to their view the quantity of fire
arms, iron, and goods suitable for trading with
the other islands, each of these vessels most ge-
nerally had on board; thus prompted and insti-
gated, they were ready, and anxious, by dupli-
city or force, as would most likely succeed, to.
enter into his diabolical plans. Providence,
however, did not long suffer this wretch to sur-
vive the capture of the Duke of Portland; the
old man formerly mentioned, with the four boys,
and a few natives were every day engaged,
under his own immediate superintendence, in
discharging the ship’s cargo into the canoes and
boats; this had been continued for a few days,
and still but little progress made, when the old
man and boys, who had been watching a suit-
able opportunity, embraced the moment when
his attention was otherwise engaged, and de-


326
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
pose of food, for it will be remembered these
islanders are cannibals.
Upon the arrival of this sad information at
Sydney, Mr. Lord chartered a ship and proceeded
with her to the Island of Antipodes. At this
place, the officers and crew whom Captain Pen-
dleton had left, had taken and cured rising of
sixty thousand prime fur seal skins, a parcel of
very superior quality; these, from information
since obtained, were received on board Mr.
Lord's ship, who thence proceeded to Canton
and disposed of his valuable cargo at good
prices, the proceeds being invested in China
goods, he accompanied to an eastern port in the
United States; these were also sold, and Mr.
Lord off to Europe with the amount of pro-
ceeds, before the agent for the owners of the
Union was made acquainted with the transac-
tion; thus unfortunately terminating the Union's
voyage, her owners never receiving either for
the skins taken from South Antipodes, or for
the fourteen thousand left by Captain P. in Mr.
Lord's charge at Sydney, one farthing. Nor was
the remainder of the brig's company more fortu-
nate than their messmates, for nothing was ever
heard of the few who after delivering the skins
to Mr. L. embarked on board the little schooner
and sailed for Sydney, in New South Wales;


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
327
it is supposed they were either lost in a heavy
gale at sea, or were wrecked on some unknown
reef or island. Thus terminated a voyage than
which, none was ever commenced with more en-
couraging prospects, and thus went her crew,
than whom, more hardy and resolute spirits
never strode a vessel's deck. Notwithstanding
this treatment to the Union's crew, the ship
Hope, the next vessel sent out under the author's
agency, succeeded in procuring a cargo of san-
dal wood at the Fee Jee Islands, the same having
been taken to Canton and exchanged for China
goods, with several other cargoes of the same
article, as also others of beach la mer, mother-
of-pearl, turtle shell, &c. have paid duties thereon
to a very considerable amount into the United
States' treasury.
Under the impression that Captain Pendleton
and his men were detained as prisoners by the
king and chiefs, and with a view to obtain their
release, orders, from which the following is an
extract, were given to Captain R. Brumley, of
the ship Hope, (for at the date of the Hope's de-
parture from New York, the sad particulars in
reference to the Union's crew were not yet
known to her owners) viz.
Sir,—You are desired to take charge of the
ship Hope, now at anchor in this port, and put



210
AWINGS FOYAGES
.inc is wil be remembered these
when
beach
tance
varyir
accord
the tra
a large
in the
the m
bay w
calms,
schoon
perfect
The
by the
tion, vi
westw
wie man is sad information at
- Lried a ship and proceeded
3 ki a kao Antipodes. At this
2 X Lisboa Captain Pen-
Le mi mai aia ai cored rising of
28' me i el si, a parcel of
ZTria information
ar were a board Mr.
: Ty 120a
* 1 's TzTa cargo at good
-- Arested in China
22 na part in the
en 2 d and Mr.
To je miest of pro-
- 空 ​LEI in de stars of the
to Canton גלאון נאך ז ::
the no
The
not un
near t
in sho
of tre
tains,
then
islan
MATEJMAN HIAS
:: 32 ming the Union's
Erang either for
*: Sri And or for
E - it in P. in Mr.
TEME Normas
rasmaT mir fortu-
Is IT Biching as evej
orazie pering the skin
Siedle schoone
7 Krth Wale
Ass
sun



it is suppose des ver el is az
gale at sa se asem
reef er samt Thuis ominai at
which, pode se mi za
couraging Postens ani tms ver
than whom tu my se
never strode a se s Janniti.com
his treatment sete Unum er fe
Lope, the best tot. tiez teatar
gency, succeeded acum 2 zés
al wood at the Falme teeme
en taken to Cantes mi
ods, with several ter s te sa
Licle, as also others are so
pear, turtle shell. Ez bremzi, issizchermen
a very considerable amount mo te Lee
ates treasury.
Under the impressice z Czin Pealesan
d his men were detziei ames
ng and chiefs, and a TED
lease, orders, from waca se malo sa
tract, were given to Casa B
e shiny Hope, (for at the casz sé e SHOES
tane from New York, the said
elements to the Union's ca se
shown te her owners) viz.
fis-Ion are desired to take care o se
slip lione, now at anchor in tha


328
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
to sea the first fair wind, proceeding by way of
the Cape of Good Hope, round New Holland as
speedily as possible, for the island of Tongata-
boo, one of the group called the Friendly Isl-
ands, in the Pacific Ocean. Arrived at Tonga-
taboo, you will proceed round Van Diemen's
Point, at the west end or side of the said island,
and enter Van Diemen's Bay, at the head of
which is Adventure Harbor, wherein you will
anchor your ship, and use your utmost endeavors
to get off on board your ship, Captain I. Pen-
dleton, and his men, who some time past were
taken at the moment of landing with a boat's
crew, and detained by the natives at this har-
bor, he then being in command of the brig Union
We recommend to you, as the
best method to deliver Captain P. and men, and
have them into your hands, the following, viz.
After you have brought your ship to anchor in
this harbor, keeping prepared for defense and
safety, endeavor, by persuasion, presents, &c. to
get their king, or two or three chiefs into your
power on board, then give them to understand
that to get their liberty again, they must send
forth with an order on shore, and bring off to
you Captain Pendleton and his boat's crew, or,
that all the white men on the island must be
brought to you for the king and chief's ransom.
of this port.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
329
You will consider yourself freely at liberty to
remain in this harbor a sufficient time to put
into execution all the means and plans in your
power necessary to obtain Captain P. and his
men; and in our anxiety to accomplish this, we
feel it a duty again to request that you will
therefore not leave any means in your power
untried, to release Captain P. and his compa-
nions, that you may have the inexpressible plea-
sure of bringing and returning them to their
families and friends. We also recommend to,
and authorize you, a few days previous to your
arrival at Tongataboo, to inform your officers
and men of the object of the voyage, at the
same time give to each a written certificate
wherein you will engage to pay unto each offi-
cer and mariner, an extra pay, provided they
will promise and engage to exert themselves to
their utmost when at the island, in assisting you
to release Captain P. and men.
Respectfully,
E. FANNING, Agent.
NEW YORK


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
331
with success in taking seals on the coast of New
Holland, to exert his utmost endeavors to re-dis-
cover them, even at the expense of two sea-
sons' cruising, for it was scarcely possible to
persuade one out of the belief in their existence,
their discoverer had been so very particular in
his description of them.
All duly prepared, the Catharine sailed from
the port of New York, bound for New Holland,
by the way of the Cape of Good Hope, solely to
endeavor on the passage out, to get sight of the
Crozetts, and not to delay in searching for them,
for hopes were yet sanguine that a cargo of fur
skins for the China market, could be readily
procured on the coast of New Holland. Cap-
tain Fanning was also furnished with the neces-
sary directions to find the letter Captain Pen-
dleton, of the Union, had deposited on Seal Isl-
and, at king George the Third's Sound. On
their arrival there, after passing over the given
situation of the Crozetts, without having ob-
tained the least trace of them, the Catharine
was brought to anchor. Meanwhile, the cap-
tain proceeded in the boat for Seal Island, there
to search for the deposited letter; this he easily
found, but was much disappointed on perusing
its contents, to learn there was not the slightest
prospect of procuring a cargo of far seal skins


332
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
on this coast. However, to make the best of the
matter, he concluded that his best policy would
be to return to his officers and crew, and undis-
couraged in appearance to set before them, that
now there was no other course left to be pur-
sued than to search out and discover new hunt-
ing grounds. He therefore, on his return, had
all hands mustered on deck, and stated the con-
tents of the letter, and the improbability of
their succeeding here, desiring them, at the
same time not to be discouraged, as from cer-
tain information he possessed, he was confident
a different result awaited them at the islands in
the Indian Ocean, to the westward of where
they then were, for which, after recruiting and
refreshing themselves, they would make the best
of their way; not one dissented, but all cheer-
fully consented to stand by their commander
to the last.
During the Catharine's stay in this sound, the
natives unreservedly came to the officers and
men at their different stations on shore while
employed in the wooding and watering busi-
ness, and readily assisted the men in bringing
the wood to the beach, but could not refrain
from indulging in their thievish disposition on
every occasion that presented itself, immediately
thereupon starting for the woods and high grass;


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
333
at first, a musket discharged over their heads
frightened and induced them to return and re-
store the stolen article to the officer ; but soon
finding the discharges did them no harm, they re-
fused to give them any notice, while their compa-
nions, who were standing among the ship's crew
in the best humor imaginable, seemed scarcely
to know that any thing wrong had occurred.
Unwilling to harm these, the captain gave spe-
cial directions for every one to keep on the
alert, and if possible, prevent any temptation
from falling in their way. They were looked
upon, by those on board the Catharine, as in
fact the most miserable of human beings: it was
scarcely possible to conceive the wretchedness
of their condition, having no settled residences,
they were constantly wandering about from one
place to another, and were, as the crew called
them, a species of one half human, the other
belonging to the baboon
Two of the chiefs received an invitation from
the captain to take breakfast on board the ship;
he, having previously observed that his guests
were remarkably fond of fried fish, had plenty
of this prepared, together with a suitable quan-
tity of coffee, bread, &c. for their own, more
particular gratification. The invited guests
were placed at the after end of the cabin table,


334
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
himself and officers seating themselves around;
before each of the former, the steward, accord-
ing to directions, had placed a goodly quantity
of the fish. Knives and spoons conveying too
dainty a morsel for their liking, were left unem-
ployed, hands the while performing the duty, and
stuffing as much into their mouths as could there
be crammed; as if fearful there was no more
for them, another small lot was thrust in by
way of filling up, the whole then being twisted
and turned about so that the bones might work
or be picked out at the corners of the mouth.
In the effort to swallow such a tremendous por-
tion, it was necessary to stretch the neck a little
and bring the head forward, a performance
somewhat like that acted out by our domestic
fowls, who good naturedly have almost choked
themselves with Indian meal, the execution re-
quiring sundry laborious attempts to swallow
the mass; when this was happily achieved, an-
other mouthful was made to follow as speedily
as might be. One of the chiefs having his
mouth thus comfortably filled, pointed to a dish
of brown sugar, and the captain supposing he
had set his affections upon having some, took a
small matter of it in a teaspoon, and as well as
he conveniently could, without being rude, put
a little in this chief's mouth, along side of what


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
335
was already there lodged, some crowding being
necessary to do this however. One would hardly
have thought he could taste it; but he did, and
not at all liking it, gave one puff, and very un-
ceremoniously blew fish and sugar, pell mell,
over the dishes and table; the remains, of the
sugar, which had sought shelter behind his teeth,
or elsewhere, being ejected in the same way.
This the officers thought was rather too impo-
lite, and rose to leave the table; the captain,
however, reminded them, it was best not to re-
gard the offense, lest the invited guests in turn
would consider themselves offended. After
calling to the steward for some other bread,
fish, &c., they reseated themselves, and con-
cluded the repast in good humor. As to the
chief, he had immediately replenished his mouth,
carefully avoiding any more sugar, not waiting
to be twice asked either, so to do.
The game found at the sound while the Ca-
tharine was there, consisted of the kangaroo,
black swans, ducks of several kinds, plover, &c.
together with a great plenty of excellent fish
and oysters. After laying in a good sea stock
of wood and water, and recruiting their stock of
provisions, the ship was got under way, and
worked back on their outward track, against
the continually prevailing westerly winds. On


336
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
crossing the supposed situation of the Crozetts,
many signs of land, such as seals, birds, drift,
&c., were seen; these added strength to the be-
lief that the islands were to be found, and after
proceeding to Prince Edward's Islands, were an
officer and crew with provisions, were left to
take seals, they returned, and continued cruis-
ing for the Crozetts, until the season was out,
equally unsuccessful as formerly, except some
additional signs of land.
After this fresh failure, the Catharine sailed
for the Cape of Good Hope, there to pass a few
weeks of the winter, while its severity should
continue; there the vessel underwent a tho-
rough overhauling, thus being placed in the best
possible condition; whence, with provisions and
stores recruited, she sailed to the south again, first
touching at Prince Edward's Islands, to inquire
after their companions, and leave them some of
the Cape refreshments. These were found to
have been very successful, which was a kind of
stimulant to those on board, and tended to re-
new their spirits for greater exertions. After
leaving their shipmates, a more thorough and
extensive search for the Crozetts was had, but
still several weeks were passed before, as work.
ing the ship much farther to the westward, after
an extensive stretch to the southward, and


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
337
going about, at midnight, on the other tack,
they at day-break discovered the southernmost
island, bearing E. by N. three or four leagues
distant. With joy and gladness of heart, they
immediately bore up for it, and run down along
its south shore; on doubling round the south-east
point, they opened a bay, on the shore of which
thousands of fur seals were discovered, while at
its head was a basin of a harbor, with a bar of
kelp across its mouth, over which a vessel,
drawing not more than ten feet water, can
easily pass: this proved to be the only harbor
these islands afforded. At this they landed, and
as Crozett, the discoverer, did not so do, there
is no reason to doubt but that these American
citizens were the first human beings who had
ever stepped on its shores. This, the southern-
most, they called New York Island, and soon
after rediscovering the other two, called the
westernmost, a long low one, Fanning's Island,
and the easternmost, a high and mountainous
island, they called Grand Crozett. Although
these were found to be situated more than one
hundred miles to the south of the latitude as
laid down on the ancient charts, there can be
no doubt, the description and bearings from each
other agreeing with that therein given of them,
43


338
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
but that they are the islands Crozett dis-
covered.
Having thus, finally succeeded in finding the
object of their long cruise, on which there was
a vast many fur seals, their next object was to
return to Prince Edward's Islands, for that por-
tion of the crew left there. In accordance
with these intents, so soon as the boat returned
from her examination, they made sail from the
bay, which had received the name of Catharine
Bay, taking along, as fresh provisions, a few
young seals, and proceeded to the westward,
passing close to Fanning's Island. Arrived at
Prince Edward's Islands, the fur seal skins there
collected by their shipmates were immediately
taken on board, together with whatever be-
longed to the men; waiting, after this was ac-
complished, a day or two, that the suspicions of
their having discovered any island might not be
excited in the minds of officers and men, belong-
ing to two vessels, one a ship, Captain Percival, of
Boston, the other from Hudson, who were there
stationed on like duties, as their own had been.
It was also a part of Captain Fanning's instruc-
tions, in the event of his succeeding in finding
the Crozetts, and there being seals on them, to
deposit on the north-east point of this island a
letter, giving their true situation and bearings


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
339
from Prince Edward's Islands, for such vessel
or vessels as might next be sent out. To ac-
complish this, unperceived by the individuals
belonging to the other vessels, it was necessary
to exercise some caution, but having effected it;
their tents were sťruck and all embarked. Near
to the end of the point just spoken of, a heap of
stones was snugly piled up, some two or more
feet in height, while thirty feet south-west, by
compass, from its centre, two feet under ground,
a bottle containing the letter was placed, and
that no evidence of its being there might be ob-
served, the earth and turf were carefully re-
placed. Sometime after the Catharine left, this
pile was discovered by those then left on the
island, and suspecting some information there
lay buried, which would be for their advantage
to obtain, they set to work, removed the heap,
and dug a hole several feet deep, and as many in
diameter; in return for this "labor lost,” going
away as wise as they came, supposing it to be
only a hoax upon them.
A few months after, these men still remain-
ing, the ship for whom the letter was intended,
arrived at the island; when her commander de-
spatched the supercargo, with an officer and three
men, to look for it. Observing that this party as
they landed, had a compass, spade, and ball of


340
FANNING’S VOYAGES.
line attached to a seal club with them, and start
for the point, these men came up, and very rea-
dily proceeded to tell all they knew about the mat-
ter, by saying, “we know that you are after find-
ing a heap of stones, but save yourselves the trou-
ble, and leave your spade behind, for we have
already removed the pile, and dug a hole large
enough for a well, under where the heap was;
so you 'll find nothing there." Being asked to
show the way, they consented, and walked
down to the point; the supercargo, nevertheless,
would fain try; and so setting down the com-
pass, and placing the seal club erect in the cen-
tre of the hole, he stretched out the line to the
south-west, and then removing the turf, unco-
vered and took out the bottle. Seeing the letter
distinctly therein, these strangers begged the
supercargo to read it for them; but this could
not be attempted, the direction being for the
commandant, who, on receiving it, got instantly
under way, and left the inquisitive people not
much enlightened as to his destination.
On arriving at the Crozetts, the Catharine
landed her first officer with a gang of sealers,
who had volunteered at Basin harbor, New
York Island, to procure a cargo of seal skins,
and have the same ready for the vessel belong-
ing to the company, under the author's agency,


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
341
which should next arrive there, as the Catha-
rine's quantity of skins was soon prepared and
safely stowed on board, the ship was shortly
after making the best of her way for the Straits
of Sunda; but his cargo being in a green state,
in the salt, Captain Fanning thought proper, on
his arrival there, to moor his ship in the harbor
at New Island, the same being uninhabited, and
there dry and cure his skins, in the best state
for the China market.
A sufficiently large space on the rising ground
adjoining the harbor, and conveniently at hand,
was cleared for the purpose. They had only
been a few days thus engaged, when a small proa
made her appearance off the mouth of the harbor,
reconnoitering them; and her not coming along
side, when the American colors were set upon
the ship, caused the captain to suspect her in-
tentions were not honest or friendly. He, at
first sight, supposed she had come from Anjier
point; but her manæuvring soon induced him to
change this opinion. An officer with a glass was
accordingly posted in a tree on the elevated
ground, to watch her motions; where, after recon-
noitering a little while, she was observed to pass
round the east chop of the harbor, steering di-
rectly across the strait for Sumatra, and this
course was keeping when the officer could no


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
345
Java shore, not far from the Mew Islands, who
had been at the Anjier market, and had given
information of an attack, made by the Malay
piratical proas, upon some ship, which had
beaten them off, as after some heavy firing the
pirates were seen recrossing the straits for Su-
matra, his visit being for the express purpose of
purchasing as slaves the prisoners, which he
very reasonably supposed the ship had taken.
He was a little chagrined at thus getting only
his trouble for his pains, and said, as the captain
told him they had been only disarmed and then
sent away, it was a pity he had treated them so
easily, for being a blood-thirsty set of villains,
they would soon be cutting off some other ship,
probably his own countrymen, and murder her
crew; advising the captain, if he should be
again attacked, and take any more prisoners, to
bring them along to Anjier, which lay on his
route for Canton, where they were much
wanted, and would readily bring three hundred
Spanish dollars a head; and as he thus con-
cluded, taking his leave.
The ship's company after this pursued their
business undisturbed, and finally completing the
relading of the ship, with wooding and water-
ing, made sail for Canton, where her cargo of


346
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
skins was exchanged for such goods as suited
the New York market. To this last place she
returned after an ordinary passage; netting, on
the closing up of her accounts, a very hand-
some profit for her owners.


CHAPTER X VIII.
DESCRIPTION OF THE SEA-ELEPHANT, SEA-LEOPARD, SEA-LION, HAIR
AND FUR SEALS, IN THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE.
The sea-elephant.—Their size.—Their excellent tongues.-Pro-
cess of trying out their blubber.-Best method for shrinking oil
casks.-Sea-leopards.—Description of them, and where found.-
Sea-lions, and account of their ways.-Fur seals.- Where found.
– Their approach to the land.-Directions for preserving their
skins.
THE SEA-ELEPHANT. These amphibious ani-
mals, at the proper season, come up out of the
sea in various numbers at a time, and on reach-
ing the beach, lay in rows along the same, such
being what are technically termed rookeries,
though some contain many more than others. The
full aged males alone have the proboscis, and
some of these are truly enormous animals, vary.
ing from twelve to twenty-four feet in length,
with a proportionate height and breadth. The
females, at this season, come on shore to shed
their coat (as do also the males) and bring forth
their young; they have generally one, some-
times two, never more at a birth, and rarely, if


348
FANN ING'S VOYAGES.
ever, even at full age, do they attain over half
the size and dimensions of the male.
On land, the elephant is a very loggy (a sea
term, meaning heavy in their movements) ani-
mal, and except among themselves, or in their
own defense, never make battle. They are
taken for their oil, and tongues, which are con-
sidered a delicious dish, and more luscious than
neat's tongue. When first coming to their fa-
vorite shore, (a sandy or pebbly beach) the ani-
mal is exceedingly plump, and very fat, the full
grown generally yielding about three barrels of
oil ; but in a few weeks it falls away, becomes
lank and poor, and by the time to go off comes
about, would not give above the half of that
quantity.
In taking the younger, a club is commonly
used, and for the old ones, a lance; yet in order
to overcome the largest bulls, it is necessary to
have a musket loaded with a brace of balls;
with this, advancing in front of the animal, to
within a few paces, they will rise on the fore
legs or flippers, and at the same time open the
mouth widely to send forth one of their loud
roars ;
this is the moment to discharge the
balls through the roof of the upper jaw into the
brains, whereupon the creature falls forward,
either killed, or so much stunned as to give the


FANNING’S VOYAGES.
349
sealer sufficient time to complete its destruction
with the lance. They are frequently discovered
sleeping, in which case the muzzle of the piece
is held close to the head, and discharged into
the brain. The loudest noise will not awaken
these animals when sleeping, as it is not unu-
sual, though it may appear singular, for the
hunter to go on and shoot one without awaking
those along side of it, and in this way proceed
through the whole rookery, shooting and lancing
as many as are wanted. The quantity of blood
in these animals is really astonishing, exceeding,
in the opinion of the author, double the quantity
found in a bullock of the same weight; when
killed, the whole thickness of the blubber or
fat, with its skin, is cut into strips of from five
to ten inches in width, according to the animal's
and thus cut from head to tail, torn from
the carcass and separated from the lean flesh,
are then, washed clear of the blood and taken
to a mincing table, where the skin is taken off,
while the blubber, after being cut into pieces
about two inches or less in size, is thrown into
a kettle and tryed out, the oil thus produced
being put into casks, the scraps always furnish-
ing plenty of fuel for the try kettle; a new
cask after being filled with the boiling oil, is
then started and coopered, necessarily, from not
size;


350
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
being fully shrunk, requiring to be filled again
with the boiling oil, and even a third time, if it
has not done shrinking after the second filling,
which can readily be discovered; this course
being particularly attended to, it may finally be
coopered and stowed away in the ship’s hold, to
be filled up by the hose, and will remain tight
for the voyage, in all climes, nor require wetting
for any length of time, or lose a gill of oil by
shrinkage. This it is presumed would be the
case as to the casks with sperm or other oils;
the author is also of opinion that without this
careful method, a much greater loss will take
place from leakage than is experienced by this
process of shrinking the casks with the boiling
oil, even though the casks are frequently wet,
to do which in a ship’s hold at sea in any wea-
ther, is always an unpleasant job, and requires
a vast deal of labor. In the maws of the sea
elephant, a quantity of gravel or sand is gene-
rally found.
The Sea Leopard. This amphibious creature,
differing in several respects from the sea ele-
phant, although in size it is nearly as large, is
very smooth and neatly built; the fore paws or
flippers are shorter, and on shore they are a
more clumsy animal than the elephant; the hair
is short, sleek, and spotted, as the land leopard,


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
351
If frightened or disturbed in any way, they
commonly tumble and roll down a steep beach
(when there) for the water, with surprising
quickness, and when in the sea can move about
very nimbly, and in point of swiſt swimming,
are equal to the herring hog, cutting their way
through smoothly and rapidly; there they are
more at home than on land, and are more cou-
rageous and daring, often following the boats
with the seeming intention of attacking them,
and this it is said has occurred.
Like the elephant, they are covered with a
thick slab of fat; the skin, however, is thinner,
and not so tough. They too observe the sea-
sons for coming up and going off in the same
manner, but are not with the elephant an inha-
bitant of all climes, as it is the author's opinion
that the sea leopard never has been seen ander
the fiftieth degree of latitude, or even down near
to it. They are but seldom found at Staten
Land, the Falkland Islands, New Zealand, De-
solation Island, or South Georgia, and there,
very scatteringly, or only singly and in pairs.
At New South Shetlands they are more nume-
rous, not so much so even there, as to herd in
rookeries; but on Palmer's Land, and the south
part of Sandwich Land, they are found herded
together in rookeries of many hundreds, and


359
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
furnish oil, as the elephant, in proportion to
their size.
The Sea Lion. Also an amphibious animal,
is the full-aged male hair seal; the female of the
same species, is called a clapmatch; the half-
grown, yearlings; and those less than a year old,
the pups. The legs, or rather flippers, of the
lion, are longer, and the animal itself much
more active on land than the elephant. Of this
species of hair seals there are two grades or
kinds; one much larger than the other, and
having longer hair; it is of a brownish color, is
also the most numerous and ferocious, and is an
inhabitant of both the high and low latitudes.
The other kind is a handsomer and neater
formed animal, with short and sleek hair of a
russet or light sorrel color, with a round and long
neck; this last description the author has not
known to be taken other than at the Gallipa-
goes,
and the islands to the north of them on
the coast of Mexico. The first mentioned grade
vary from nine to fifteen feet in length, very
large around the neck, but tapering off gradu-
ally till quite slender at their hind flippers, with
a head resembling the land lion, good sized
white teeth, and a very long bristling mane.
On approaching near to them when the clap-
matches have their young, which is one at a


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
353
time, and for which purpose they come up on
shore, they immediately advance to their de-
fense, shaking their mane, roaring and growling
and showing their fine teeth, and presenting to
a person unacquainted with them, a terrible and
powerful appearance. They are taken in the
same way as the large bull elephant, with the
musket and lance, the club answering for the
clapmatches and yearlings, unless where from
being frequently disturbed they have become shy,
in which case it is necessary to shoot them also.
They, too, herd together in rookeries, and be-
tween these and the water, from which they are
by this means cut off, the hunters advance in In-
dian file, and when surrounded, turn them up,
and drive them to some convenient spot, where,
huddled together, they are killed by hundreds
at a time with the club. The favorite landings
for this animal are the smooth bays with pebble
or sandy beaches, but at times they are content
with the flat rock. They subsist on birds, (for
their method of catching these, see page 89)
fish, and marine productions; they have also a
coat of blubber under the skin, which is the
toughest and closest fabric of all these amphi-
bious animals, though not one half the thickness
of the elephant's in proportion to its size; to
cure the skin in a merchantable manner, it
45



E ISLAND, SOUTH SEAS.





356
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
savage, nor having so sharp pointed a nose as
the others; the hair is sleeker and shorter, and
the fur, of a rich bright color, is long, thick, and
glossy. They are met with at New South Shet-
lands, west coast of Terra del Fuego, South
Georgia, Prince Edward's and Crozett's Islands.
All these three different species, strange as it may
be thought, have been taken at the Gallipagos
Islands, situated on the equator. Over his seve-
ral mates, as they lay closely huddled around him,
the wig keeps a sharp lookout; severe battles
frequently take place between the males when-
ever they approach one another's company; on
the other hand, when the females venture to
move to another place, or take to the water
against the will of the wigs, they are immedi-
ately pursued, and by being bitten and shaken,
driven back to the starting point; the females
have been seen to get some rods off from the
shore before their absence was discovered,
which
sooner done than plunging
through the surf to all appearance in a great
rage, the male has headed them off, biting and
driving them back again to where the remainder
of his seraglio were quietly looking on without
daring to stir.
The clapmatches seldom have more than one
young at a time, although sometimes two; it is
was
no


FANNI NG'S VOYAGES.
357
at this season particularly, that the wigs are
very savage, never hesitating to fly at and at-
tack with great spirit, any person who ventures
to approach them. They live upon fish, and
marine productions; stones also have been found
in their maws, as well as in those of the other
described animals. They migrate, and with
the season return to the shore and herd in
rookeries on the rocks, and in the gullies, re-
turning to the water again when the season is
over; at this time the animal is very lean, so
much so that the skin is become very loose
about it; nothing more after this is seen of them
until the following season, when they are to be
observed coming up again to the shore, exceed-
ingly plump and well filled; where they retire
to, to get so fat is something I never could under-
stand; it is also true that they have been met at
sea shortly before going on shore in large shoals
swimming through the water towards their
haunts much like a shoal of herring hogs or
porpoises. In calm weather and a smooth sea,
they have been seen floating along, hundreds
together, and asleep, with but the nose and two
of the inflippers sticking up out of the water,
which at a distance appears like the trunk of a
tree with its roots, afloat; when caught thus


358
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
asleep, they can easily be taken by the harpoon
or spear, by approaching them silently.
These fur seals are the animals the celebrated
Captain Cook and other ancient voyagers call
sea bears, sea wolves, &c. While waiting at
the resorting places of these animals, they have
been seen far off on the sea as the eye could
reach, coming directly and quickly towards the
land, springing out of the water and then plun-
ging in again, in a regular undulating movement,
and after passing through the surf, land on the
rocks, where being arrived, a few moments are
passed in looking about for a suitable spot, the
body then moving off to their places in the
rookery, a mode of proceeding very similar to
that of the hair seals. The wigs, generally
come up in smaller flocks a few days before the
clapmatches, and as these last arrive, select
their mates from among and drive them off to
their location directly.
The skins are taken in the same way as
those of the sea lions are. If these seals are to
be skinned for the China market, the fat, and
portions of the meat should be taken off with
the skin, the whole then washed and spread on
the rocks to drean, afterwards taken to the
beamer, where the fat and blubber is cleanly
beamed off, the flipper holes sowed up
with


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
359
twine, and the skin stretched out by means of
ten wooden pins (which to be of a suitable size,
should be half an inch in diameter at the head,
and twelve or fifteen inches in length) on the
turf to dry, and when perfectly dried are in
order for that market. But for the European,
London, or American markets, the skin should
be flinched off, taking half to one inch thick-
ness of the fat with it, then washed perfectly
clean from the blood and dirt, and while wet
plentifully salted, and booked or kentched
away. The young fur seals, after they are six
weeks old, and until yearlings, are used as,
and
considered to be, good fresh meat for roasting,
frying, broiling, or stewing; in fact, persons
have preferred them to lamb. The flippers,
when well dressed and cooked, are not inferior
to the callipee of the best green turtle.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
361
during the absence of the ship to the Pacific
after sandal wood.
As a caution to strangers, on opening and
sailing, or working up Port Lewis Bay, I would
remark, that about midway up, a cluster of tus-
suc islands, called the sea-lion islands, will be
noticed, the passage on either side of them ap-
pearing to the eye to be fair and clear of dan-
ger, and that on the south of the islands, the
most preferable; this, however, must be avoided,
as in its so being we were most sadly deceived,
for as the Volunteer, with a fine whole sail
breeze from the northward, passed around the
northern promontory, she then opened and steered
up the bay;' on nearing, and getting a fair view
of the above tussuc islands, the passage on the
south appeared to be the most eligible; we,
therefore, took it, and when arrived abreast of
the east end of the largest island, furled the
sta ysails, with the fore and mizen top-gallant
sails; the wind, though moderate, a leading
breeze, with smooth water, and the ship going at
the rate of four or five miles an hour; one officer
was on the lookout at the fore-top-gallant yard,
another at the jib boom end, and a hand in each
side channel at the lead, so that when one lead
was up, the other should be down. Notwith-
standing all this precaution, when the ship had
46


362
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
passed up a little above the middle of the island,
the water, from twelve fathoms muddy bottom,
began to shoalen at each cast; still the look-
outs could not discover any danger; but when
the seaman at the larboard lead announced "and
a half four !" which was directly echoed by the
other, and sung “by the mark three!” the helm
was ordered a lee, the ship came promptly to,
and as her sails began to shiver, took the ground,
and was fast asbore on a sand bar; all the sails
were instantly hove aback, and preparations
made to carry out an anchor a stern; as the
tide, however, was now on the rise, before this
could be effected, the force of the wind on the
sails backed the ship off afloat, and as she
gained the depth of ten fathoms came to anchor,
with mud and clay bottom. We then furled the
sails and sent a boat to sound, when it was found
that a hard sand bar extended from the island
entirely across the passage, to a point on the
main, having then, at about half tide, on its
ridge, only three feet water; here the ship re-
mained at anchor the rest of the day and
through the night, wbile in the mean time an
officer in the boat had sounded out the north
passage, which being found free from danger,
we weighed anchor, and returned again around
the east end of the larger island, and under


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
363
single reefed topsails, with a gale from the W.
N. W. worked the ship up the passage on the
north side, and came to, at the port. The bot-
tom, as far as our knowledge extended, gene-
rally throughout this bay, is good anchoring
ground, keeping clear in all the different depths
of water of sea-weed or kelp; we discovered no
shoal or shallow water, but what the kelp de-
signated, except the above mentioned bar. To
the left of the before mentioned false south pas-
sage, as you advance up the bay, and abreast
of a beach, is the spot where the French cor-
vette, L’Uranie, Commodore Freycenet, was
run on shore and wrecked, being at the time
bound on his astronomical voyage, &c., round
the world.
During the three months while our crew were
employed at these islands in building the before
mentioned vessel, and in taking seals, our hunt-
ers succeeded in procuring for the ship's com-
pany, two hundred and ninety-two wild hogs
and pigs, nine hundred and thirty-seven wild
geese, some ducks, teals, also seventy-three bar-
rels of albatrosses' and penguins' eggs, together
with about five barrels of excellent mullet fish,
from twenty to twenty-five inches in length, and
some shell-fish, which were very easily obtained
at most of the harbors. This wild pork was


364
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
salted and barreled up, and was preferred by
the crew to the salt pork laid in at New York.
December 10th, 1815. Got the ship under
way from the Falkland Islands, and proceeded
round Cape Horn into the Pacific. After
searching for and taking some fur seal skins at
the Island of Massafuero, her course was shaped
upon a wind for the coast of Chili, with a view
to put into the port of Valparaiso, to refit ship
and obtain water and refreshments, but the
wind not enabling the ship to fetch that port, it
was thought best to bear up for Coquimbo.
While standing in with the coast for this pur-
pose, the weather so thick and cloudy as to
prevent our taking an observation, by which the
correct latitude might have been ascertained,
the shore, or rather firstly the surf on it, was
made. After doubling a rocky islet, which lay
off a projecting point of the land, we stood into
a bay, which was supposed to be that of Co-
quimbo, and anchored in twelve fathoms water,
near to a beach at the bottom of the bay; this
was near sunsetting, the weather still thick and
smoky, and preventing our seeing far around;
our mistake discovered, until we
noticed there was no appearance of habitations
on the shore, on which some persons were seen,
when for the first it became doubtful whether
nor
was
1


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
365
this was the bay we supposed it to be; this
point was settled upon proceeding in the boat
to the shore, by the information of those persons
there met with, from whom the ship's true situa-
tion was ascertained to be in a bay very similar
to that of Coquimbo, a few miles south of it;
night now closing, we remained at anchor here
until the following morning. Being put upon
my guard, from an acquaintance previously ac-
quired, of the jealous disposition of this people,
and a remembrance of the detention and diffi-
culty on my former stopping at Valparaiso, all
communication with the shore was prohibited,
the inquiry above having been made without
landing from the boat, or any one of these
people coming off to her.
Next morning we proceeded round the point to
the north, into the bay of Coquimbo, and came
to an anchor in the harbor near to, and abreast
of the fort and battery; being unacquainted
with the recent revolution in Chili, and change
of government into the hands of the royal party,
we were much surprised at seeing a number of
troops on shore in the royal Spanish uniform;
but still as the purser, the author's only son,
both spoke and wrote the Spanish language
equal to a Castilian, the boatswain also speak-
ing it, sufficiently well for ordinary purposes, we


366
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
felt confident that no misunderstanding could
arise between the inhabitants and ourselves.
Having in charge letters for the United States'
Consul General, Matthew A. Havel, at St. Jago,
the capital of Chili, I had prepared the follow-
ing letter to this gentleman, on business relating
to the ship, and inclosed the others in it.
COQUIMBO, FEB. 8th, 1816.
Matthew A. Havel, Esq., United States
Consul General at St. Jago, Chili.
SIR,—Having put into this port, for the pur-
pose of overhauling my ship, filling water, and
obtaining refreshments, I have herewith the
honor to inclose your letters, intrusted to my
care, together with the latest American news-
papers, and also to tender to yourself the first
offer and preference, for any freight my ship
may be able to take; therefore, should you
alone, or in connection with any Spanish mer-
chants, wish to freight the Volunteer from Val-
paraiso to New York, or to any port in Europe,
to Canton, and on to New York, or to return
from Canton to Valparaiso, or any other port in
Chili, please state what such freights would con-
sist of, and on what conditions they could be
engaged, should I be at Valparaiso in July or
August next, to accept of either of them; being


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
367
now bound to the leeward seal islands to take
seals, be pleased also to give an immediate answer
by letter to the above propositions, that I may
govern myself accordingly; and inform me if those
freights can be taken in the Volunteer, she being
an American bottom, consistent with the Spanish
commercial laws and regulations of Chili, as no
reward or inducement would engage me in any
illegal trade: the Volunteer is a new and first
rate ship of her class, coppered and armed. If
agreeable, please mention your friend or agent
at Valparaiso, that I may wait on him on my
arrival there. Inclosed is likewise a copy of
my instructions from J. Byers, Esq., agent for
the owners of my ship; an immediate attention
and answer to the foregoing, as I shall wait
here a few days, will much oblige,
Very Respectfully,
Your Obt. Servant,
E. FANNING,
Captain of the American ship Volunteer.
At the same time, and by the same convey-
ance, the following letter was addressed to the
governor of Coquimbo. .


368
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
On board the American ship Volunteer,
at Coquimbo, Feb. 8th, 1816.
To His Excellency, the Governor of Coquimbo.
Sir, I take the liberty of intruding upon the
goodness of your Excellency, so much, as to re-
quest your aid in forwarding to St. Jago, by the
first opportunity, the inclosed packet, directed
to Don Matthew A. Havel, American Consul
General at that city, and also the additional
favor, that your Excellency will be pleased to
grant me permission to remain at anchor in Co-
quimbo, to overhaul, caulk, and refit my ship
for sea again; also to procure water and re-
freshments, and remain until I shall receive an
acknowledgment of the receipt of the packet
for Don Havel. Your Excellency's compliance
will greatly oblige,
With much respect,
Your Obt. Servant,
E. FANNING,
Captain of the American ship Volunteer.
Accordingly so soon as the ship was brought
to an anchor, manned the boat and went on
shore, accompanied by the purser. On having
the commandant pointed out to me, I requested
permission from him to send an officer to the


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
371
concessions already obtained, were not made
with a friendly intent; as the case then stood, I
concluded to wait with patience for what should
transpire in the morning.
The next day before I had risen, the officer in
command of the deck, reported the marching of
more troops, then in sight on the road from the
city, to the harbor, and soon after rising from
breakfast, the following note was handed to me,
accompanied by a verbal invitation, couched in
very polite language, from the bearer, a military
officer, that the commandant Gomez was wait-
ing to have an interview on shore. The note
was as follows:
Coquimbo, Feb. 9th, 1816,
2 o'clock, A. M.
To Captain Edmund Fanning, of the ship Volunteer.
SIR,—The conductor of this comes commis-
sioned from me, and from this city, to answer
you respecting the points contained in yours of
yesterday, which I inform you of, and also the
name of the gentleman, Don Jose Maria Gomez.
Yours, &c.,
JUAN ANTONIO OLATE.
Upon this I ordered the boat to be manned,
and in her, accompanied by an officer and the


372
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
boatswain as interpreter, proceeded to the shore,
still thinking it very strange that the
purser
had
not returned. On the shore, J. Maria Gomez,
attended by a felv officers, was awaiting; while
in different places small bodies of troops were
seen paraded. On stepping ashore, and advanc-
ing a few paces towards J. Maria Gomez, one
of these detached bodies of soldiers instantly
surrounded me with charged bayonets, and
marched me off to prison, another party seizing
upon the officer and boatswain, and taking them
also to prison, and the men to a third place of
confinement.
After remaining some time alone in my soli-
tary cell, in the midst of swarms of vermin, not
altogether in the best humor imaginable, my
meditations were disturbed, by the entrance of
a fat padre and his burning tapers, with some
official character or other, and an interpreter.
Cappetain Amerricana, said the padre, usted
confesso; Frigat Amerricana, mo, yeo, mahlah.
(Meaning, I come for you to confess that your in-
tentions with the American ship are bad.) Such
he flattered himself was very good English; but
notwithstanding all this, I thought proper
not to answer, and therefore remained silent,
my looks giving them to understand their
visit was not considered either friendly or wel-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
373
come. The ghostly father was evidently not
pleased with the reception, and speedily all
three took their leave. A little while after, an
officer entered, and stated that he had orders to
escort me to the commander's quarters; my
double guard, as we left the prison, being joined
by those of the escort, the whole were formed
into a hollow square, myself in the centre, and
in this manner conducted to head quarters, on
the way passing a number of squadrons of horse
and foot, under arms, and paraded to show off,
or some other purpose. Arrived at our destina-
tion, I was greatly surprised to see my son, the
purser, for the first time since he had been sent
to the city, standing on the piazza, with a few
officers; seeing me approach, he turned and
made some observation to one of those officers,
who then spoke in Spanish to the leader of the
escort, and he in turn giving an order, by which
the escort altered from the square to two lines
in single file, and then halted. Having permis-
sion to speak to me, my son approached, and as
I took his hand, whispered, “Father! I have
overheard the Spanish officers' intentions; they
are going to execute you;" and then burst into
a flood of tears.
Although greatly shocked at this unexpected
piece of information, I was still enabled to re-


374
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
tain sufficient command of myself, to request
him also to show to our enemies we have Ame-
rican hearts, and fortitude enough to bear up
against their injustice. He instantly perceived
the propriety of this, and becoming composed,
stated, that the moment he had arrived at the
city gate, the officers who were with him had
put their horses at full speed, he also doing so;
in this way riding through the streets, they
came to the residence of the governor, where
he was then ushered into the presence of his
Excellency, in whose company were several
military officers and other gentlemen. On re-
ceiving the packet, the governor broke the seal,
and perceiving the inclosed despatch for the
United States' Consul General, immediately
thereupon ordered an officer in attendance to
take him in charge, and imprison him forthwith,
being thereafter kept in close confinement, until
taken out to be carried to the harbor, in com-
pliance with the author's demand. Since this
he had, while in conversation with several of
the officers, some of whom were sociable and
communicative, learned that they entertained
strong suspicions, and indeed were firmly con-
vinced, we were engaged with the ships in as-
sisting the cause of their opponents, the Patriots,
supposing when she anchored in the south bay,


376
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
and their innocence, nor suffer any power on
earth to sway them from such determination.
As we parted, I had the satisfaction of seeing
that
my remarks were not lost, for the counte-
nance of the purser was calm and collected, and
his whole appearance that of a man ready to
meet whatever evil his enemies might put before
him.
I was then conducted into the hall at head
quarters, each side of which was occupied by
double rows of soldiers, while at the farther end
was seated the commander, Gomez, two officers,
and an aged gentleman, of a benign counte-
nance, in citizen's dress (this person was pointed
out to me as the King's Judge Advocate); a
semi-circle of military officers ranged on each
side of the judge, and a person acting as scribe
seated at a table in front of these, completing
the company. As soon as they seemed to be
prepared, the chief, Gomez, made some remark
in Spanish to his interpreter; (an officer, judg-
ing from his speech, born in Ireland) this last
then turned, and in English gave me to know,
this was none other, than the king's court, which
was now going to interrogate me upon the ne-
farious employment myself and ship had been
engaged in. This insulting observation had
well nigh produced a retort, but the better po-


378
FANNING’S VOYAGES.
an invitation to visit the old gentleman, which
he accepted, being at this, and every succeeding
visit, treated with the utmost politeness and
kindness by the family.
An animated conversation now took place
between the commandant and the King's Judge
Advocate, which last asserted the captain to be
in the right, when insisting upon having his own
interpreter present at the interrogations, as well
as being entitled to counsel, if he desired it.
These were very unwelcome facts for the chief,
Gomez, to learn, and instantly becoming much
enraged, he dismissed the court without any
more ado. The officer in charge of the escort
then received his orders, and marched me off to a
place by the parade-ground of the troops; here,
after going through the fuss, as it proved to be,
of a sham execution, I was remanded back to
prison. Shortly after, Gomez, with an inter-
preter, and a soldier on each side, with musket,
and bayonet charged, entered my prison, and
asked if I wished any thing to eat or drink.
My mood was not very pleasant at the time, so
that he received a very short answer in the ne-
gative; he then inquired what I did wish for,
all the while standing at as great distance as
the walls of my small cell would permit, as
though I was a tiger, or some other wild beast,


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
379
evidently not trusting much to his guards. I
then requested the use of pen, ink, and paper;
this was granted, and with these I addressed
the following note to the governor. .
{
In prison, at Coquimbo Harbor,
To His Ex. Juan Antonio Olate, Governor of Coquimbo.
SIR,—On the receipt of your Excellency's
note of this date, accompanied too by the
friendly invitation of the commissioned officer,
Jose Maria Gomez, I came immediately on
shore; when landing, and but a few paces from
my boat, I was surrounded by soldiers, with
charged bayonets, and at once forced to a
loathsome prison; my officers and men, as I
have been informed, being also separately impri-
soned. I would also mention that my treat-
ment has been very unjust and unwarrantable,
far exceeding what would have been inflicted
upon a prisoner in Algiers. As no reasons are
given for such proceedings, will your Excel-
lency do me the favor to explain, and inform
me whether Spain and the United States are at
war? If such is the fact, my demand for my-
self, officers, and men, is, to be treated as pri-
soners of war, and not as the worst of crimi-
nals. Your Excellency may rest assured that
1
2


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
381
being placed in charge of the vessel ; by these,
every thing was displaced and tumbled about;
in the hold, the casks of stores, such as the mo-
lasses, the liquor casks, &c. were bored by
gimblets, and the contents suffered to run to
waste on the decks and about, until the steward
managed to stop them; in this spirit of mali-
ciousness prosecuting their search and exami-
nation, for some evidence to prove us connected
with the Patriot's cause, the remonstrance and
entreaties of our officer being of no avail.
The sabbath following our imprisonment, the
American colors were set upon the ship, as
usual, out of respect for the day, the men also
being at leisure; this was noticed by General
Gomez, who wished to know, inasmuch as the
company were thus idle, whether there could
be any objection to their all being examined on
shore, merely as a matter of form, and as his
excuse to the vice king, he was informed that
nothing of the kind would be voluntarily con-
sented to, nor in any case should an examina-
tion be admitted, unless my interpreter, the
purser, was returned to us from the city, and
present during the same; this being done, that
is the purser first liberated and sent on board,
the proposition would be further considered.
Accordingly, in the course of the forenoon, the


382
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
purser was set free, and returned to the ship.
Early in the afternoon a launch pulled up along
side the ship, filled with troops; these soon scram-
bled
up over the rail, and were formed in double
line on the deck. After they had all primed
and loaded their pieces, and fixed bayonets, a
detachment was ordered to the quarter-deck,
where I was quietly walking, all the while no-
ticing their strange and unaccountable conduct.
Being surrounded by this squad, their command-
ant drawing his sword, advanced to me, saying,
“Sir, you are my prisoner!” “Then, sir," I re-
plied, “I surrender my ship;” and accordingly
gave my first officer charge to haul down the
colors. This being done, caused the Spaniard
to hesitate, and Gomez, an attentive observer of
all that was passing, who at the moment was
standing on the bank within pistol shot distance,
called out to know why the colors were thus
hauled down, receiving as a reply, the captain
has surrendered the ship.
Except our second officer and the steward, all
the ship's company were ordered into the launch,
part of the troops getting in also, the remainder
staying on board. On landing from this launch
with my son, the purser, by my side, we com-
menced our walk on to head quarters, and ar-
rived in a few minutes after at the hall, a place


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
383
about forty feet by twenty, on entering it, we
found our first officer, Mr. B. Pendleton, seated
uncovered, on one side, while Jose Maria Go-
mez, in the style of a braggadocia, was march-
ing backwards and forwards in front of him,
brandishing his hanger about very valiantly,
each time as he passed Pendleton, cutting within
an inch or two of his head. I know not whether
such conduct was most calculated to excite
feelings of contempt or anger; as it was, the
first in a very strong degree were predominant,
and the man's noise and bustling about, were it
not for the serious transactions in which he was
concerned, would have called forth a hearty
laugh. This strutting was undoubtedly intend-
ed to produce fear and terror in Mr. P.'s mind,
as well as his fellow-sufferers; it was labor in
vain, however, and that he (Gomez) might
know the estimation in which we held such
conduct, the purser was directed to tell him
we conceived his behavior not only unbecoming
a gentleman, but also disgraceful to the commis-
sion which he held in the service of king Ferdi-
nand VII., his master. The effect was as de-
sired, for being delivered in a clear and audible
tone, and in the Spanish language, all the
troops, and others in the hall, must have heard
the words. Gomez instantly came to a stop,


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
385
spired, an order was brought from the governor
requiring the unhanging of the Volunteer's rud-
der, the same to be sent on shore, while at the
same time a guard of soldiers were to be sent
on board ship. The last body of these fellows
had sufficiently incommoded us, so that I deter-
mined not to acquiesce in this demand, and that
the
governor might better understand my view
of the matter in hand, I sent the following note
to him.
{
On board the American ship Volunteer,
Coquimbo, Feb. 10th, 1816.
To his Excellency the Governor of Coquimbo.
SIR,—This day a demand was made of me
by a gentleman who I presume is an officer
under your Excellency, in which my ship's rud-
der is required to be unhung and taken on shore,
and a guard of soldiers to be placed on board.
In addition to this, I remain as yet uninformed
as to the reason why myself and company were
thrown into prison, and treated so infamously,
yesterday, well knowing that when we left New
York all Spanish ships and vessels were received
in the ports of the United States, on the most
friendly terms. I would now not only state
my duty requires that the particulars of every
one of these transactions should be given to my
49


386
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
government, but it also bids me solemnly to pro-
test, for the government of the United States of
America, and all interested in the ship, against
any further, similar proceedings. Any explana-
tions your Excellency may be pleased to give
relative to, or concerning these extraordinary
proceedings, will be thankfully received by
Your Excellency's
Obt. Servant,
E. FANNING.
Captain of the American ship Volunteer.
Gomez, the commandant, had at this time pro-
hibited every article, even the most trifling kind
of fruit or vegetables, from going on board our
ship; this prohibition was rendered doubly
harsh, from the fact that our crew were laboring
under a scorbutic affection, which the fruit
would have removed. Notwithstanding these
orders, when young Borgues, son of the king's
judge advocate, came on board with the bearer
of the governor's last order, he brought with
him, as a present (and one highly acceptable)
from his parent, two large trunks, one filled
with delicious peaches, grapes, &c., and the
other with salad, onions, and other vegetables.
Gomez, with a threat, had forbid these being
taken on board, but the young gentleman pro-


388
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
ant of the port to be a draft of $100 against
said Havel; when you also mentioned to this same
officer that this sum was destined to furnish you
with those articles you stood in need of, and again
soon after told him you did not want these, not
thinking them necessary, so then to conclude these
and other (false) inferences which are noticed,
the circumstances in which the kingdom is now
placed, and this not being an able port, obliges
me to take with you the measures of precau-
tion I have judged requisite. Conceding to you
only that you get on board what water and
provisions may be necessary without forwarding
yourself in the refitments of your ship, in con-
sequence of her being in good condition, accord-
ing to returns respecting her made to me yester-
day by the boatswain and carpenter of the brig
Francisco Xabier, also ordering you to lay still
until the pleasure of the superior governor is
known, to whom I write under this date; he
will also answer your protest of the 10th as he
may think proper. .
Yours, &c.
JUAN ANTONIO OLATE.
The bearer of this letter, said he was charged
to apologize, in the governor's name, for the
treatment we had received, and that he brought


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
389
orders to have the ship supplied daily, with
fresh meat, fruit, and vegetables, as her captain
might please to direct. I therefore again ad-
dressed him in the following.
On board the American ship Volunteer,
Coquimbo, Feb. 12th, 1816.
To his Excellency the Governor of Coquimbo.
Sir, I have the honor to acknowledge the
receipt of your Excellency's letter under yes-
terday's date. It gives me much pain to learn
the mistake or misunderstandings (as to con-
tradictions therein spoken of) which by its tenor
it appears your Excellency labors under in re-
ference to my behavior and conduct since my
arrival at this port. This I conceive must have
arisen from misinterpretation, which in all
pro-
bability also caused my reception and treat-
ment to be what it was. I cannot agree with
your Excellency as per letter, for the very first
act of the officer who was the bearer of the
letter (and which as interpreted to me stated he
was instructed to grant me the permission and
privileges asked for) was my arrest and impri-
sonment by force of arms; however, in conside-
ration of the apology now tendered in your
Excellency's name, you will always find me
willing and ready to put the most favorable


390
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
construction on every act so far as duty and
honor will adinit, I have now to state that to
prevent any farther misconceptions and misun-
derstandings, any of the rights of hospitality
which you may be pleased to grant will be ac-
knowledged, and reciprocated in like manner
by my government. Your officer has also given
me to understand that the proceedings against
my command were caused by Mr. Havel's being
under arrest for treasonable acts against the
royal government of Chili. Respecting the fa-
vors I ask for, and still am in need of, I beg to
refer to my first letter, as well as to assure your
Excellency of my ignorance about any surveys
upon the ship for her refitments, said to be made
by some persons, until so informed in your's of
last evening. By way of explanation, I would
now state that it is necessary that the ship's
bends, as far as sinks under water above the
copper, should be sheathed, in order to guard
her, before going into a lower latitude, against
the worms, for which purpose the ship is now on
a heal; the same being partly done, her main-
topmast being also on deck and undergoing re-
pairs, but having received your Excellency's
commands that these refitments are unnecessary,
I have stopped the men from working, still
hoping you will, upon a reconsideration, be


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
391
pleased to permit these to be finished rather
than cause the ship to proceed to sea in her
present dismantled and unfit state. In answer
to the misunderstanding your Excellency is
ander, as I am told by the officer, touching the
contents of the packet addressed to Don Mat-
thew A. Havel, which you was pleased to for-
ward to St. Jago, I rest satisfied that upon your
receipt of the governor general's examination
of its contents, all doubts and suspicions will be
removed from your mind which may there have
arisen, well knowing that myself, officers, and
crew, are entirely clear from even the shadow
of any deed respecting the internal affairs of
the government of Chili, or against its marine
or commercial trade. At your Excellency's
commands my ship will remain at anchor here
until you are pleased to order the return of her
sails and arms on board.
With high consideration,
I am, Very Respectfully,
Your Obt. Servant,
E. FANNING,
Captain of the American ship Volunteer.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
393
On board the American ship Volunteer,
at Coquimbo, Feb. 14th, 1816.
To His Excellency, the Governor of Coquimbo.
Sir, I have the honor to acknowledge the
receipt of your favor of the 13th inst. and
shall use my best ability to govern myself
strictly by the tenor of its contents. By it I
am also led to believe when you 'shall be in re-
ceipt of an answer from St. Jago, every unplea-
sant suspicion will be removed, so that I may
leave this port with friendly feelings.
Very Respectfully,
Your Obt. Servant,
E. FANNING,
Captain of the American ship Volunteer.
Things had now began to wear a smoother
front; our supplies of refreshments, although in
a somewhat limited quantity, were getting on
board ; the refitting business too, was pro-
gressing, all looked well until the afternoon of
the 16th, when the second edition of the same
troubles were visited upon us hy an officer and
a party of soldiers, who pulled up along side,
with a demand that all our powder should be
delivered up to him, adding, if the same was
not peacefully surrendered, his orders were to
50


394
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
take it by force. He received as a reply, that
no consent on our part could be voluntarily
granted, for so long as the arms and sails of the
vessel were retained in their possession on shore
she must be considered as at their risk, and the
crew as prisoners of war. The soldiers then
mounted to, and were paraded on the deck, and
ordered to load their pieces; after which, they
were formed from the gangway around the
quarter deck, and encircling the companionway,
they then commenced passing the powder up,
from below, thence along through this line of
troops to the gangway into the launch. A
short stop was put to this disposition of our
property by the timidity of the lieutenant, or
the person who held the second command of
the troops; his fears were occasioned by the
sparks which flew from the armorer's forge, who
was at this time busy about the same, upon some
necessary work, having been unable to obtain
permission to erect it on shore, it had been put
up on the main deck about midships; sparks
flying, and powder passing, at last induced the
officer to call out to his senior and notify him of
his unwillingness further to risk his own and
the lives of his men until the forge was stopped;
the senior at this hint wished the request might
be granted, but was told no assistance on our


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
395
part could be rendered him in the fulfillment of
his orders; “but,” he replied, somewhat asto-
nished at our indifference, “ you will all be blown
to heaven, then." This, we answered, would be
all very well, as we should also, part of the way
at least, have their company. Muttering some-
thing about North Americans, strangers to fear,
more so than any men on earth, captain and all
indifferent or unconcerned about being blown
up, &c. he turned round to the purser and beg-
ged his intercession ; this was granted by his
advising him to order a file of his men to charge
bayonet upon the armorer, who very probably
would retreat from his forge, and they could then
put the fire out : "he does not understand your
language,” said the purser," so that you can bid
the troops not to harm him in their charge,
without his knowing of the order.” After lite,
rally following this advice, the armorer of course
retreating, and they quenching the fire; the offi-
cer thanked the purser for it, and then, completing
the disembarking of the powder, left the ship
with all his troops for the shore. To ascertain
by whose authority, and what reason, this fresh
aggression was made, I addressed the governor
again.


396
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
{
On board the American ship Volunteer,
Coquimbo, Feb. 17th, 1816.
To his Excellency, the Governor of Coquimbo.
SIR,-From the substance of my last letter,
it will be perceived I had been induced to be-
lieve that all proceedings against my ship were
suspended, at least until you should have re-
ceived an answer from St. Jago. But last eve-
ning a fresh act (and I am at a loss to account
for the same) in the removing to the shore all
the ship's powder, was committed. If this was
founded on the suspicion that our vessel would
depart without giving any notice, I have only
again to assert that your Excellency has my
written word of honor (than which an Ameri-
can officer can give no stronger security) the
ship by my orders or means will not quit her
present anchorage until her sails and arms are
by your order returned on board. I would also
ask, in answer to yours of the 16th, whether
the established custom of inspection or exami-
nation of stranger's effects, where no resistance
is made, will justify such proceedings and acts
of violation as have been committed against
our ship's company, citizens of the United


400
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
up her water, and obtaining refreshments. No
resistance was made on our part to the treat-
ment complained of, and ignorant of having
committed aught against the internal govern-
ment of Chili, or the known marine or commer-
cial laws of this country or Spain, I am at a
loss to account for the same, except the little
light (false inferences and jealousy on his part)
my correspondence with the governor of Co-
quimbo has opened to view. Copies of all this
correspondence, with additional particulars,
statements of all the proceedings, with what
explanations and reasons the Captain General
of Chili, or the Governor of Coquimbo may be
pleased to favor me with, shall be forwarded to
you, as well as the Honorable, the Secretary of
State, by the first opportunity. The high stand-
ing and character of James Byers, Esq., the
principal owner of the Volunteer, as well as
that of the other owners, will at once satisfy
our government I had no means on board for
entering on a clandestine trade on this coast,
and that they, as well as myself, were altoge-
ther ignorant of the internal affairs of the go-
vernment of Chili.
With great esteem, I am,
Very Respectfully, Yours,
E. FANNING,
Captain of the American ship Volunteer.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
401
P.S. I have the honor to inclose my letter to
the Honorable James Monroe, * Secretary of
State, for the United States, giving the facts of
our treatment here, as also some information
received while here, of the capture and deten-
tion of American vessels, in other ports on this
coast, to all of which I earnestly beg your
friendly and official attention. His Excellency,
the Governor of Coquimbo, does me the favor
to forward this over land, by the isthmus.
E. F.
With a copy of both the letter to Mr. Monroe,
and that to Mr. Irving, translated into the Spa-
nish language, and left unsealed, the originals
were sent inclosed in a note to Governor Olate,
with a request that he would have the goodness
to forward them over land, by way of the isth-
mus of Panama, that our government might be
informed of my situation, stating also as the
reason why my packet was directed to Mr.
Irving, that he being a near neighbor, and
particular friend of mine, could well explain to
the President of the United States and Con-
* When the Volunteer left the port of New York, the Honorable
James Monroe filled the office of Secretary of State, to the United
States, but upon her return, he had been elected to the Presidential
chair.
51


402
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
gress, what dependence there could be placed
upon its representation, and if his Excellency
doubted the translated being true copies from the
originals, he was at liberty to open the last, to
compare and satisfy himself, afterwards to re-
seal and forward it; my intention was to for-
ward duplicate and triplicate by other opportu-
nities: this note was sent, by the purser, and had
the desired effect of producing a reply.
Coquimbo, Feb. 29th, 1816.
To Captain Edmund Fanning, of the ship Volunteer.
Sir,-As from one hour to the other I expect
the answer of the Captain General and Presi-
dent of this kingdom, to what I have written
since your arrival at this port, sending also your
letter to the Consul General of the United
States, as you desired, I cannot now comply
with your request of the 28th inst., which I now
answer, returning your letters to Mr. Irving and
Mr. Monroe, inclosed for the same reason; and
until the resolution of my government shall be
received, no alteration will be made, nor can
you vary from your present situation, as I have
already said in my former letters, and through


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
403
the commissioned officer, Don Joseph Maria
Gomez. Yours, &c.,
JUAN ANTONIO OLATE.
The translated copies, as the purser was in-
formed, the governor immediately, by advice of
his council, sent off, by an extraordinary cou-
rier, to the vice-king at St. Jago, the ship mean-
while to be detained for an answer, which could
not be short of seven to ten days. The council
also, at this setting, decided forthwith to take
off all restrictions from the ship, giving the offi-
cers and men permission to come on shore, go
where, and return when, they liked; myself
also receiving liberty to procure from the shore
what I pleased. The governor's orders, in ac-
cordance with these, was brought by the officer,
who returned with the purser; Gomez hence, in
his conduct and bearing towards us, was en-
tirely altered, but knowing somewhat of his
character, these professions of friendship were
duly estimated, and he credited accordingly.
After waiting patiently, the following note came
to hand.
Coquimbo, March 7th, 1816.
To Captain Edmund Fanning, of the ship Volunteer.
SIR, -In the day of this date, I have received
the resolution of the supreme government of


404
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
Chili, concerning the detention of your ship, and
conforming myself to this, I have to tell
you
I
have given orders to the commissioned officer,
Don Joseph Maria Gomez, to deliver you all
belonging to your ship; he farther informs that
the answer solicited from Mr. Havel is not re-
mitted, because it is impossible, said Havel *
being out of the capital of Chili, to wait for it.
You are now at liberty to leave the port with
the greatest despatch, without, after so doing,
approaching within ten leagues of this coast,
agreeable to the agreement between the English
and Spanish standards.
Yours, &c.,
JUAN ANTONIO OLATE.
On perusing this letter, that part which read,
“In not approaching within ten leagues of this
coast, agreeable to the agreement between the
English and Spanish standards,” was not suffi-
ciently well understood, and an explanation
was requested; therefore, this was given.
1
* Mr. Havel was at this time a state prisoner on the Island of
Juan Fernandez, although the governor was not aware the author
knew be was there confined.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
405
Coquimbo, March 8th, 1816.
To Captain Edmund Fanning, of the ship Volunteer.
SIR,—The captain of the American ship, Don
Edmund Fanning, having manifested to me by
a note the confused intelligence my letter of
yesterday gives him, I now state to him, that
only in cases of extreme necessity can be enter
the ports of the South Sea, then always prefer-
ing, when possible, the able ports, which are
Talcuana, Valparaiso, and Callao, of Lima; and
that without the above mentioned reasons, he
must observe literally what is said in mine of
yesterday.
Yours, &c.,
JUAN ANTONIO OLATE.
Our sails, powder, and arms, had been by
this returned, and a supply of refreshments, as
wanted, according to a note list given the go-
vernor, was furnished without charge; thus all
ready for sea, I notified the commandant, J.
Maria Gomez, in the evening, that the ship
would proceed with the first fair wind.
Early the next morning, an officer from the
city called on board, with the compliments of
the governor, saying, that agreeable to the


406
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
orders he had received from the supreme go-
vernor at St. Jago, he would have the honor to
make a visit on board the ship in the afternoon,
to apologise in person for the reception and
treatment we had met with. This was quite
unexpected; and accordingly at 4 P. M. his
Excellency, attended by a numerous retinue of
military and civil officers, came on board, and
with every appearance of friendliness made the
promised apology; he farther 'mentioned his
hope, that upon reflection, I should conclude not
to represent the affair to our government, as he
could say for himself, that he had been over-
swayed by his council, and were it to become a
national affair, he alone would suffer.
It afterwards appeared, that the packet sent
on the first day, directed to Mr. Havel, the Con-
sul, had instantly excited their suspicions, that
it was in some wise calculated to act against
the Royal cause, and advance that of the Pa-
triots, and was thus the means of bringing down
upon us their unwarrantable and severe treat-
ment; but when this, with the letter inclosing
it, had been forwarded to St. Jago, and ex-
amined by the supreme governor there residing,
their error was discovered; and hence the
anxiety of the government, in directing their
apology through the governor of Coquimbo, in


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
407
this way endeavoring to remove, as far as was
in their power, the insult and wrong committed
by their premature and disgraceful acts, espe-
cially as they now began seriously to fear our
government would likely take the matter in
hand. After these ceremonies, apologies, and
leave taking were over, we got under way from
Coquimbo, and proceeded on our voyage, stand-
ing to the northward. After visiting the Lobos
Islands, we repaired to the Gallipagos, so much
celebrated from being the resorting place for the
early buccaneers. A particular description of
them is given in the voyage of our worthy and
gallant countryman, David Porter. Captain
Benjamin Pendleton, a brother voyager of the
author, has given him an account of an eruption
of the volcano on the Island of Narborough,
which took place in 1819. He was then on
board the brig Frederick, of Stonington, at that
time at anchor in the Basin, or Essex Harbor,
situated at the west side of Albemarle Island,
before which, and in plain view, at about ten
miles distance, lies the noted Island of Narbo-
rough.
'It commenced at the dead of night, and the
roaring noise occasioned thereby, can only be
compared to successive peals of near and very
heavy thunder, making the whole earth to


408
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
tremble with the shock, and the vessel, though ten
miles off, to shake violently, this noise, and the
scarcely to be heard cries of the watch, of "fire!
fire! the ship is all in a blaze of fire!" awaking
all on board out of their sleep. I sprang on
deck,” adds Captain Pendleton, “ followed by all
hands, each countenance bearing a look of terror
and alarm; at first the view appeared indeed as
if not only our ship, but also the world was in
a blaze; this, however, soon gave way to the
reality, and every one gazed with surprise and
admiration, upon the awful and sublime sight
of the volcano on Narborough. The gigantic vo-
lume of flame reached to an immense height,
and seemed in fact to mingle with the stars,
while down the south-east side of the mountain
came pouring a broad stream or river of lava;
this, on reaching the river, created a roaring
similar to that of a cataract or falls, or like the
sound of heavy sea surf. For some days previous,
there was a rumbling noise about the mountain,
which now and then would also discharge a
column of dense and black smoke; but this
night it would appear as if the powers of dark-
ness had determined to send forth a blaze, large
enough to enlighten the whole universe; masses
of rock and cinder were sent to an amazing
height; these, as the force by which they were


FANNING’S VOYAGES,
409
The erup-
72
sent forth became expended, would fall out-
wardly, while the flame ascending much higher,
created a most magnificent scene.
tion continued unabated until the second morn-
ing; it then began to subside, and by the even-
ing of the fifth day, had become settled into its
usual rate. Although the brig lay at a distance
of not less than five marine leagues from the
burning mountain, the additional heat very soon
began to be felt, to an uncomfortable and rather
intense degree. The thermometer, in the morn-
ing at daybreak, stood at 102° in the air, and
at 86° in the sea; at noon, in the air, 116º ; in
the sea at 98°."
After dinner, the captain made an excursion
up to the lookout station, fixed upon by Com-
modore David Porter, of the United States
navy, while here in his frigate the Essex. This
was situated on a high mountain on Albemarle,
to the northward of the harbor, where the brig
lay, and from it a better view was had of the
wonderful actions of this uncommon and inte-
resting spectacle. Assisted by an excellent
glass, the crater thence appeared like a mighty
cauldron of melted metal boiling over, while
from this terrific body many streams emanated,
that first mentioned as pouring down the south-
east side, appearing to be decidedly the largest.
52


410
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
In the course of a few days, great numbers of
dead fish, of the many species which frequent
these shores, were found floating on the surface
of the deep. But to return to our voyage.
Here we obtained about 8,000 fur, and 2,000
hair seal skins, and also a good sea stock of the
celebrated land terrapin, (named by Commodore
Porter, the elephant terrapin) and several bush-
els of delicious pears, gathered from the prickly
pear tree, which grows in abundance on several
of these islands; it is a size less than the New
York bergaloo, but of a similar shape, with one
side a bright golden color, and the other a bright
crimson; it is an effective anti-scorbutic. This
excellent fruit we gathered in a very careful
manner, to avoid bruising it, by hooking it from
the trees with our small iron seal hooks, fast-
ened to a pole ten feet in length, and as it fell from
the trees then received into a sheet, held at the
corners by four seamen. After thus procuring
them, they were placed in our nettings, between
the cabin carlings or beams, and kept good for
over two months. When ripe and mellow, this
pear is equal in richness and palatableness to
the best pear or peach from the New York
market; when cooked in pies or tarts, accord-
ing to our notion, they were equally nice, and
relished as well as any to be procured at a con-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
411
fectioner's. After receiving these on board, we
took our departure from the Gallipagos, and
steering to the south, arrived at the Island of
St. Mary's, on the coast of Chili, where we
came to anchor, and took on board about 14,000
more seal skins.
While the ship lay here, our poor steward re-
ceived a severe scald from a pot of boiling hot
tea, which one of the men had just taken out
of the galley kettle and was carrying below;
this was at the dusk of evening, the steward
not perceiving the seaman's approach, was
coming up the gangway ladder, and striking
his head against the pot turned it over, and
being uncovered, the scalding contents were
thrown on his head, down the neck, back, and
shoulders, making so severe a burn that the
back part of the scalp, with the skin, came off
in the attempt to dress it, leaving a raw and
deep wound. The boat very fortunately had
just before this misfortune, brought on board a
quantity of greens which had been gathered on
the island; among the lot was a parcel of very
large leaves of the dock herb, very similar to
that growing in our fields about the barns;
having heard that this was a healing herb, I
determined to apply the same to the steward's
wound, which was forthwith done, after first


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
413
which are of various sizes, and spread near each
other; the top of this grass is some feet above
man's height, and the ground between the bogs
covered with a thick layer of the dead grass,
the growth of previous years, and so combus-
tible withal, as when once on fire there is no
possibility of extinguishing it. On such excur-
sions as this, the crew after hauling up and
securing their boats, fall to work to make a
sleeping hut (or nest, as they call it); for this
purpose two large bogs are chosen at a good
distance apart, and the inner borders of the
grass
then cut down fairly so as it were to form the
walls; after this, the tops of the grass on the
inner margin of each bog is strongly tyed to-
gether to form the roof; over this is placed a
thatch of grass of sufficient thickness to keep
out the rain, be it ever so violent; each end of
the hut is then walled up tightly with portions
of the bog, leaving at one end but a small open-
ing by which to enter the premises; this again,
when the crew are in, is closed by means of a
dried skin secured to its place with wooden
pins, the interior having a layer of the dried
grass to answer for beds, so that when in, the
men sleep warm and comfortably, and at times
are rather loth to come out.
These huts are
placed as near each other as possible, or as the


414
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
bogs will allow; while they are building, the
cook makes his fire upon the beach, and pre-
pares a supper of meat, with a cup of tea for
each, all turning in after partaking of the same,
except himself, who remains by the fire to ex-
tinguish it, and prepare breakfast in the morn-
ing This our cook, a good natured careful
body, had always done; it appeared, however,
that after extinguishing his fire, he was in the
habit, unknown to the officers, of enjoying a
comfortable smoke of his pipe after retiring
with his mess to their hut. He had so done on
this occasion, and after supposing his pipe was
out, had laid it at his head as usual, but had
not got sound asleep before it was discovered
that the grass was on fire, no doubt originating
from a spark out of the pipe; unable to smother
this, he awoke his shipmates to his assistance;
their efforts failing, the officers were then called,
who instantly alarmned the whole encampment;
from one of the rear huts a young man (B. S.
Cutler) was one of the last to awake, by which
time the flames had nearly reached them, and
as he, came out of the hut, not yet fairly awake,
he became bewildered, and seeing the fire
spreading around in front, retreated towards
the interior of the island, but recovering his re-
collection he mounted to the top of one of the


FANNING’S VOYAGES.
415
tussuc bogs to take a survey, whence observing
himself nearly surrounded by the flames, he
concluded his shortest and safest way was to
retrace his steps, and if possible, pass through
the sheet of fire to the boats; this he proceeded
to effect, but having over his other garments a
frock highly charged with oil from the fat or
blubber of the seal skins which he had worked
in, he had not more than entered the flames
before it took fire, so that by the time he had
crossed the burning grass, all his clothes were
burnt to a cinder, and his body and limbs com-
pletely roasted, so much so, that after he had
been plunged in the water and taken out, the
skin cracked and came off with flesh attached
to the remaining portions of the dress; having,
however, taken care to hold one of his hands
over his mouth and nose while in the flames, he
had imbibed but little if any of it.
Mr. Pendleton having heard that oil and fresh
skins of animals was a good application in
giving relief from burns, directed several of the
penguins then near by to be killed, and their
skins to be taken off with about half an inch in
thickness of the fat and flesh attached; binding
them in this state around the roasted body of
the young man, an immediate relief from pain
resulted from it; then preparing a litter, the


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
417
can vessels in ports on the Chilian coast; upon
this
a messenger sent by President Monroe from the
department of state at Washington, sanctioned by
the signature of Mr. Rush, acting secretary,
waited upon the author, and requested the parti-
culars in relation to these occurrences, with at the
same time an opinion as to what measures he
could recommend, most likely to prevent their
repetition. This was most cheerfully given, the
sending a naval force to the coasts of Chili and
Peru, being advised in the strongest terms, as
the only way, in the present unsettled state of
those countries, of putting a stop to farther de-
predations, and preventing our commerce, trade,
and fishery, from being destroyed in that quar-
ter. Shortly after this, Mr. Worthington re-
turned from Washington, and wished assistance
in getting to the Rio de la Plata, as he was
anxious to arrive at Buenos Ayres as quickly
as possible, thence to travel over the mountains
to Chili, on confidential business for the govern-
ment, which had its origin out of my communi-
cations sent to Washington. Mr. W. also
stated, President Monroe had expressed himself
as being much gratified with the stand which
had been taken by the Volunteer at Coquimbo,
and upon the author's recommendation, had de-
cided upon sending an United States ship of
53


418
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
war to the Pacific. For this piece of service,
the sloop Ontario, Captain Biddle, was chosen,
and ordered to be in readiness for sea with all
despatch. Thus it was the weighty evidence
our case produced to government, and reasons
advanced by myself, for making the Pacific a
naval station, that opened the gate, as it were,
to induce government to place there a naval
force; and should this have been any advantage
to his fellow-citizens, particularly to the officers
of our navy, the author feels confident, that in
their known liberality, they will give him due
credit, all the American vessels seized in other
ports on this coast, as has been subsequently
ascertained, were promptly released, through
the exertions of that gallant naval officer, Com-
modore Biddle.
This was the first voyage of the Volunteer;
on it the ship was found to be a fast sailer, and
as safe and agreeable a sea-boat as any mariner
need wish for. She was built at Stonington,
Connecticut, by that ingenious shipwright and
builder, Benjamin Morrell.


420
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
The annexed plate represents an encampment
of sealers at these islands; in the foreground,
part of the crew are engaged in preparing a
supper of upland geese; some of this game
lies
at the feet of the two officers, who are leaning
against the rocks, engaged in conversation; op-
posite to them a seaman is picking a goose,
while another is dipping some loggerhead ducks
in a kettle of boiling water, for it is necessary
to scald these birds to enable the men to pick
them; others of the crew are backing skins from
the landing, a short distance round the point,
the situation for rendezvous not admitting of a
boat's landing, owing to the rocks and kelp; on
the opposite beach, in the background, is seen
some small hair seal rookeries, with six or eight
clapmatches (female seal) as usual huddled
around each sea lion, their protectors; on the
upland hillocks, the coarse tussuc grass appears,
while over the more elevated ground in the in-
terior, the albatrosses are hovering, and directly
over the back of the cook, a whale-boat is seen
crossing, and coming round the point with a load
of skins.
For the information of those engaged in the
right or black whale fishery, the author would
here mention, that these monsters of the deep
are to be met with, in great numbers, at the





FANNING’S VOYAGES.
421
mouth of Sinfonda Bay, on the coast of Patago-
nia, in about latitude 42° 50' south. For seve-
ral leagues along this coast to the northward,
and near the shore, it is presumed that a ship
might lay off and on, or even come to an anchor,
near the shore, during the prevalence of the
westerly winds, and take these fish as rapidly
as the crew could cut them in. They were so
numerous in the passage between the chops of
this bay, and so gentle and void of fear withal,
as in their gambols around the ship, frequently
to come so near that the spray from their spouts
fell upon the deck; her
presence did not disturb
them in the least, for they continued their sport-
ings as if she had not been there. Many of the
like species of whale also frequent the bays, in-
lets, sounds, and passes of the Falkland Islands,
particularly in the passes between the New and
Swan Islands, and between Swan Island and
the Great Malone. They are to be found in still
greater numbers at the south mouth of Falkland
Sound, both in the west branch, by Arch Isl-
ands, and in the east branch, by Eagle Island.
These islands afford good harbors, where vessels
may anchor and obtain cargoes of oil and bone,
as fast as the oil can be tryed out: the whales
here appear perfectly tame and quite fearless,
and are not known ever to have been disturbed.


422
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
A person at a station on any elevated bluff,
from January to June, may observe their blows
in all directions, rising high out above their ele-
ment, and this is the case throughout the whole
day, with seldom any cessation. They fre-
quently feed close in shore, at the verge of the
kelp, as well as at times making a circuit round
in the harbors. They are also to be found in
vast numbers at Nassau Bay, at the mouths of
the inlets and passes near and in the vicinity of
Cape Horn. A ship steering to the southward,
and rounding this celebrated cape, when at a
fair distance to the west, may then direct her
course to the northward, up Nassau Bay, and
gaining the western shore on board, will soon
be brought in view of good harbors, where she
can anchor in safety, to attend to her whaling
business.
After procuring a full cargo of elephant oil,
and upwards of 5,000 seal skins, our ship started
for home. On the 22d of April, in latitude 38°
8. north, and longitude 68° 25' west, she was
overtaken by a violent storm of wind, rain, and
hail, and an almost continued flaslı of lightning,
attended with terrific peals of thunder, the wind
coming in heavy squalls, first from the north-
east, then from the east and south-east, and
then round to the south-west, and between each


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
423
squall falling nearly to a calm, thus creating a
confused cross-breaking sea; this caused the
ship to labor very much, although her sails were
all snugly furled, except a reefed fore-course,
which it was necessary to attend all the time
by the braces, on account of the sudden changes
of the wind. Somewhere about 11 P. M. the
lightning struck the main-mast, and followed it
down to the fair leader; here two of our
choicest men were hauling in the fore-braces,
who in an instant were hurled into the lee
waist. At this moment, the dreary darkness
gave way to the bright glare of a flash, yet this,
if it were possible, left all things darker as it
vanished; the ship was filled, both on deck and
below, with a most disagreeable sulphurous
smell, somewhat like that caused by burning
damaged gun powder, rendering it difficult to
breathe for some minutes, though the smell re-
mained for hours after. The two men who
were wounded, were immediately taken into the
cabin, and attended to by our first officer, Mr.
D. Mackay, who possessed, of all others on
board, the greatest knowledge in physic and
surgery; they were found to be differently
wounded; the eldest, who came first to his
senses, had received two injuries, one on the
arm near to the shoulder, which was burnt a


424
FANNING'S VOYAGES.'
little, and a hole perforated nearly through the
thick or fleshy part of the thigh, in size like
that caused by the ball of a rifle, while on the
opposite side of the limb, or at the termination
of the progress of the fluid, the flesh was seared
quite hard, and about the size of half a dollar,
resembling in look a piece of horn; the nails of
the hand were also seared, and though there
was scarcely any bleeding, the wound, however,
was very painful. The other man was, as it
were, completely roasted, from his neck down
to the knees; by putting any pressure on the
skin, it would snap, or rather crack, similar to
that of a roasted pig ;—poor fellow! it was a
sad sight. His outer garments had remained
untouched by the lightning, those underneath
being slightly scorched, while the waistcoat
was a little burned, but the guernsey robbin
nearest his person, was burned black and to a
tinder. Even philosophy was put to a stand,
to account for so different an effect upon two
persons clinging to the same rope, for when a
sample of the shirt was presented to Doctor Sa-
muel L. Mitchill for his opinion, he could not
but say, that he thought it a very singular freak
in the electric fluid, thus differently to act upon
the two subjects.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
425
A few drops of laudanum had been occasion-
ally administered to relieve the pains, and his
person was instantly, on being brought into the
cabin, dressed in linen bandages, continually
moistened with olive oil; still notwithstanding
all our best exertions and attentions, it was five
hours before he came to his senses; the heaving
of the ship also added in no small degree to both
their distress.
At 6 P. M. three days after, we hove in sight
of the land, which proved to be the south side
of Long Island, about midway of the same; the
wind at the time blowing fresh from the W. S.
W. there was little prospect of our being able
to fetch Sandy Hook; therefore, bore away for
the east end of the island. At 8 A. M. we passed
Montague light, and at noon came to anchor in
the mouth of New London harbor. An officer
was immediately sent to the town, who returned
shortly with the health physician of the port in
company, who, after examining our wounded
men, advised me to send thein without delay to
New York, the necessary means for their reco-
very not being within his reach.
Got the ship under way the next morning,
and proceeded as far as Whitestone; while at
anchor here, waiting to receive a Sound pilot, a
New Haven packet crossed the ship’s stern, she
54


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
427
never had been made for fines in such a case.
In the hands of the skillful faculty of the hospi-
tal, both the men shortly after were entirely
cured.
The Sea Fox arrived at the dock in New
York the second day after, having been absent
seven months and twenty-three days.
The
closing up of her voyage, by the sale of the
cargo and vessel, produced to her owners a nett
profit of eighty-eight per cent, in short of ten
months from the time they advanced the prin-
cipal. It is worthy of notice, that the potatoes
taken on board the first day of September, 1817,
kept well in the nettings between the carlings,
until the last were used, about the middle of
March following: during this time the ship had
twice crossed the equator, and been in upwards
of fifty degrees south. In the same way oranges
received on board at St. Ann's Islands, on our
outward passage, were in good preservation
when the ship again had soundings on the Ame-
rican coast; great care, however, was taken to
pick out the sprouts and defected one's every
week; by means of these articles, the health
of our crew had been beyond doubt greatly
preserved.


428
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
BRIG HERSILIA TO THE SOUTH SEAS.
In July of 1819, the brig Hersilia, a fine new
vessel, coppered and fitted in the best manner,
sailed from Stonington, on an exploring and
sealing voyage, under the command of James
P. Sheffield, William A. Fanning supercargo.
In addition, to his being then in possession of
the corrected survey of the Spanish corvette,
Atrevida's position of the Aurora Islands, also
of the manuscript of Captain Dirck Gherritz's
discovery of land to the south of Cape Horn, in
the Dutch ship Good News, in the year 1599,
the author had previously been, in the spring of
the year, at South Georgia at the breaking up
of the winter ice, a few days after a gale had
set in from the W. S. W.; fleets of iceislands
came from that quarter, and in passing to the
eastward, brought up against the south-western
coast of South Georgia, giving decisive evidence
that extensive land did exist in that direction,
for as numerous iceislands had formed at South
Georgia, and drifted away to the eastward in
these gales, it was certain that the iceislands
first spoken of, must have had land to form at,
or they could never have been in existence.
The author was therefore convinced that land
was to be found, somewhere between the lati-


FANNING’S VOYAGES.
429
tudes of 60° and 650 south, and between 500
and 600 west; besides this, the correctness of
the manuscript of Gherritz's discovery, was
beyond a doubt.
The master and supercargo of the Hersilia,
both possessing nautical talents, and both able
lunarians, were therefore directed, in their in-
structions, to touch first at the Falkland Isl-
ands, there to fill up their water and refresh the
crew, thence to proceed in search of the Aurora
Islands, and should seals be there found, to pro-
cure their cargo, if not, to return westward to
Staten Land, and after wooding and watering, to
stand to the southward, keeping as nearly in the
latitude of Cape Horn as the winds would admit,
until they arrived in the latitude of about 630
south, then to bear up and steer east, when it
was confidently expected they would meet with
land; but after all, should they be still unfortu-
nate in the search, and find no seals, then to
enter the Pacific, or return to the Falklands, or
islands about Cape Horn, and endeavor to pro-
cure a cargo.
On the return of the brig, they reported hav-
ing on the passage out touched at the Falk-
lands, thence proceeded in search of the Aurora
Islands; these were found to be three in num-
ber, each in form of a sugar-loaf, but having no


430
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
landing places, even for amphibious animals, on
them. A number of birds about, with some
shaggs and white pigeons in the clefts, were all
the living creatures discovered on them. The
brig sailed around and between these islands
without discovering any danger, except a reef
which put off south-west, a short mile from the
southernmost island. The centre island they
place in latitude 52° 58' south, longitude 479
51' west.
Leaving the Auroras, the brig's course was
shaped westward for Staten Land; from this,
after taking on board wood and water, they
steered to the south; on arriving in about
the latitude of 63° south, at 1 P. M. they
bore away east, under a good breeze from the
westward, attended with clear weather; hove
to when night closed in, during which many
seals came swimming about the vessel ; this
gave them strong hopes of being in the vicinity
of land. In the morning, bore away again to
the eastward, and at 10 A. M. to their great
joy, a high and round mountain island was dis-
covered, covered with snow, although in the
month of February, and the last summer month
in this region. From its singular form they
named this Mount Pisgah Island; upon ap-
proaching nearer, more land, or rather moun-


432
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
1
Captain Smith, in the English brig William,
some fifteen months prior to the arrival of the
Hersilia at them, while bound from Buenos
Ayres to Valparaiso, and by him named the
South Shetlands. But as Captain Gherritz,
after his discovery of this land in 1599, pro-
ceeded into the Pacific, and was there captured
by the Spaniards and sent into Valparaiso, it is
therefore likely that Captain Smith, who was
then engaged in the freighting trade to Valpa-
raiso, got a hint of the Dutch Captain's disco-
very from some Spanish source, and then went
to look after it. Succeeding in his search, he
then claimed it as a new discovery, and gave it
an English name, by which it is established and
recorded on the charts in use, the public gene-
rally not being aware that Captain Gherritz,
was the first discoverer; it would have been
more liberal and just in him to have named
them D. Gherritz's Islands. We yankees might
with more propriety, inasmuch as they had be-
come obsolete, have considered our rediscovery
of the Crozetts, after the long and tedious
search had for them, as a discovery, and named
them South Martha's Vineyard, or something
else. The Hersilia, the first American vessel it
is believed that visited, did not presume to call
the group or chain by any other name than that


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
433
given by their first discoverer, viz. Gherritz's
New Iceland. Captain G. states his having
sailed many miles along its coast, and that it
consisted of high, craggy, sterile mountains,
like to the coast of Norway, and was covered
with ice and snow. The author does not in-
tend, however, to enter into any disputation
touching the names.
The South Shetland Islands, now so called,
are a chain of rough, rocky, and mountainous
islands, whose valleys or chasms are partially
filled with everlasting ice, and during the great-
est part of the year they are covered with snow.
The chain consists of upwards of fifty islands
and islets, stretching in a southwest and north-
east direction, and are situated in latitudes 61
and 63 and a half degrees south, and between
54 and 63 degrees west. The navigation among
the group is dangerous on account of many
sunken reefs. The weather is similar to that
of South Georgia; there is very little earth or
vegetation, except the winter moss, to be seen,
nor is there a bush or shrub to be found. De-
ception Island, the most southerly, is a curious
phenomenon of nature, and beyond doubt of vol-
canic origin : in form it is a mountain ridge,
making the interior round the bay in appear-
ance an immense bowl, while on the east side
55


434
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
as it were, is a piece broken out; this forms an
opening or passage by which vessels enter the
bay. At the north-east inner bay side, is the
harbor called Yankee Harbor, near to which,
along the shore, is a stream of hot or boiling
water; this keeps the water of the bay, for a
little distance round, quite warm, and is much
resorted to by the disabled and wounded pen-
guins, who appear fond of, and anxious to re-
main in it. By scraping down a few inches in-
to the sand of the beach, a few yards distant
from the boiling fount, the heat is so great as to
render it impossible to hold the hand in any
length of time; notwithstanding, very near by,
in the cavity of the mountain, is an iceberg of
solid flint ice, several hundred feet in heighth.
(See description of the formation of ice, page
301.)
BRIG FREDERICK'S VOYAGE.
The next season after the Hersilia's return
from the South Shetlands, a fleet of vessels,
consisting of the brig Frederick, Captain Ben-
jamin Pendleton the senior commander, the brig
Hersilia, Captain James P. Sheffield, schooners
Express, Captain E. Williams, Free Gift, Cap-
tain F. Dunbar, and sloop Hero, Captain N. B.
Palmer, was fitted out at Stonington, Connec-


436
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
began to clear away, Captain Palmer was sur-
prised to find his little barque between a frigate
and sloop of war, and instantly run up the Uni-
ted States' flag; the frigate and sloop of war
then set the Russian colors. Soon after this a
boat was seen pulling from the commodore's
ship for the Hero, and when along side, the lieu-
tenant presented an invitation from his commo-
dore for Captain P. to go on board; this of
course was accepted. These ships he then
found were the two discovery ships sent out by
the Emperor Alexander of Russia, on a voyage
round the world. To the commodore's interro-
gatory if he had any knowledge of those islands
then in sight, and what they were, Captain P.
replied, he was well acquainted with them, and
that they were the South Shetlands, at the same
time making a tender of his services to pilot
the ships into a good harbor at Deception Isl-
and, the nearest by, where water and refresh-
ments such as the island afforded could be ob-
tained; he also informing the Russian officer
that his vessel belonged to a fleet of five sail,
out of Stonington, under command of Captain
B. Pendleton, and then at anchor in Yankee
Harbor, who, would most cheerfully render any
assistance in his power. The commodore
thanked him kindly, “but previous to our being


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
437
enveloped in the fog,” said he, “ we had sight of
those islands, and concluded we had made a
discovery, but behold, when the fog lifts, to my
great surprise, here is an American vessel appa-
rently in as fine order as if it were but yester-
day she had left the United States; not only
this, but her master is ready to pilot my vessels
into port; we must surrender the palm to you
Americans," continued he, very flatteringly.
His astonishment was yet more increased, when
Captain Palmer informed him of the existence
of an immense extent of land to the south,
whose mountains might be seen from the mast-
head when the fog should clear away entirely.
Captain Palmer, while on board the frigate,
was entertained in the most friendly manner,
and the commodore was so forcibly struck with
the circumstances of the case, that he named
the coast then to the south, Palmer's Land.;*
by this name it is recorded on the recent Rus-
sian and English charts and maps which have
* This continent, it is asserted in Morrell's Voyage, page 69,
was named “New South Greenland,” by a Captain Johnson. It
is but just to state here, that this most meritorious mariner (Captain
Johnson) was a pupil to, and made his first voyage to the South
Seas with, the author, with whom also he remained, rising to differ-
ent stations, and finally became one of his best officers; the first
information he obtained of the discovery of this land by Captains
Pendleton and Palmer was from the author of this work.


438
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
been published since the return of these ships.
The situation of the different vessels may be
seen by the plate; they were at the time of the
lifting of the fog and its going off to the east-
ward, to the south, and in sight of the Shetland
Islands, but nearest to Deception Island. In
their immediate neighborhood were many ice
islands, some of greater and some of less di-
mensions, while far off to the south, the icy tops
of some two or three of the mountains on Pal-
mer's Land could be faintly seen ; the wind at
the time was moderate, and both the ships
and the little sloop were moving along under
full sail.
The following season, in 1821 and 22, Cap-
tain Pendleton was again at Yankee Harbor,
with the Stonington fleet; he then once more
despatched Captain Palmer in the sloop James
Monroe, an excellent vessel of upwards of 80
tons, well calculated for such duties, and by her
great strength well able to venture in the midst
of and wrestle with the ice. Captain Palmer
reported on his return, that after proceeding to
the southward, he met ice fast and firmly at-
tached to the shore of Palmer's Land; he then
traced the coast to the eastward, keeping as
near the shore as the ice would suffer; at times
he was able to come along shore, at other points



Litho of Endicotta Sweett NY
AND as from the SOTTY PIVIH ST
PALMER
TITAN


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
439
he could not approach within from one to seve-
ral miles, owing to the firm ices, although it was
in December and January, the middle suinmer
months in this hemisphere. In this way he
coasted along this continent upwards of fifteen
degrees, viz. from 64 and odd, down below the
49th of west longitude. The coast, as he pro-
ceeded to the eastward, became more clear of
ice, so that he was able to trace the shore better;
in 61° 41' south latitude, a strait was discovered
which he named Washington Strait, this he en-
tered, and about a league within, came to a fine
bay which he named Monroe Bay, at the head
of this was a good harbor; here they anchored,
calling it Palmer's Harbor. The captain landed
on the beach among a number of those beauti-
ful amphibious animals, the spotted glossy look-
ing sea leopard, and that rich golden colored
noble bird, the king penguin; making their way
through these, the captain and party traversed
the coast and country for some distance around,
without discovering the least appearance of ve-
getation excepting the winter moss.
leopards were the only animals found; there
were, however, vast numbers of birds, several
different species of the penguin, Port Egmont
hens, white pigeons; a variety of gulls, and
many kinds of oceanic birds ; the valleys and
The sea


440
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
gulleys were mainly filled with those never
dissolved icebergs, their square and perpendi-
cular fronts several hundred feet in height,
glistening most splendidly in a variety of colors
as the sun shone upon them. The mountains
on the coast, as well as those to all appearance
in the interior, were generally covered with
snow, except when their black peaks were seen
here and there peeping out.
SCHOONER PACIFIC TO THE SOUTH SEAS.
The account of this voyage was forwarded
to the author by the editors of the Portsmouth
State Herald, for which they have his un-
feigned thanks. The schooner Pacific, Captain
James Brown, sailed on a sealing voyage to the
South Seas, from Portsmouth, October 1st,
1829. November 14th she reached the Cape
de Verds, and there took in salt and fresh provi-
sions, and sailed for South Georgia, in the South
Atlantic, which she made on the 29th Decem-
ber, 1829. Left Georgia March 5th, with 256
skins, and 1800 gallons sea elephant oil on board.
December 8th, 1830, latitude 56° 18' south, lon-
gitude 28° 35' west, they discovered an island
neither laid down on any chart, nor described
by Cook or Bowditch. In clear weather, the


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
441
land may be seen thirty miles off; the island
is two miles in circumference, resembling at a
distance a high round lump ; Captain Brown
named this Potter's Island.
Four days after, viz. on the 12th, a second
island was discovered, having a mountain 800
feet high in the centre, from which, in several
places, smoke was constantly issuing; it was
covered with ice and snow; on the lower or
level part of the island was a deep stratum of
lava disgorged from the volcano; this was of a
light brown color, and somewhat resembling
brick when burnt to excess, extremely porous
and fragile, and so light as to float on the water;
on the ocean in the vicinity of this island, large
masses of this were seen floating about. The
seamen went on shore, and travelled over seve-
ral portions of the island, examining the places
whence issued the smoke; at these a slight de-
gree of heat was perceptible; upon digging
down in the earth several feet below the surface,
the ground was found to be extremely dry. On
this isolated spot are two stony beaches, and
convenient landings. Five different species of
the penguins were found here, as also nelleys,
spotted eaglets, sea hens, gulls, &c. in great
abundance. This they named Prince's Island;
56


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
443
kind. On Bird's Island, the crew of the Pacific
killed a sea tiger, measuring eighteen feet; the
skull and hide of one of these animals was
brought home by them; the animal was seven
feet in length, and girted three and a half when
killed. The head is shaped like that of the
common seal, except that is more elongated,
the sockets of the eyes too, being deeper and
broader ; it measures fifteen and a quarter
inches from the extremity of the nose to the
great hole of the occipital bone; the lower jaw,
from the chin to the point of articulation with
the upper jaw bone, is eleven and a half inches.
A straight line drawn from one articulating
process to the other, measures six inches. The
number of teeth is thirty-two, four of which are
tusks; the largest of these is an inch and a
quarter in length, and one in circumference at
the base; in each jaw were ten grinders; these
immediately after emerging from their sockets,
are divided into three distinct conical portions,
the central one's being more than half an inch
long, and the other two the fourth of an inch,
all terminating with sharp points. The skin is
covered with a thick, fine, and short hair, on
the back of a gray color, spotted with black,
and white on the abdomen; the flippers are
short and strong; the animal moves with sur-


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
445
the boat; one of the party then lodged a ball in
his body; this only served to increase the ani-
mal's rage, and in another attempt to spring
into the boat, he would have succeeded, but for
a severe blow he received from a lance. Even
after this, his courage and perseverance were
unabated, and it seemed as if he had resolved
that neither the power nor the weapons of man
should prevail against him. When, however,
the second and third balls were lodged in him,
his efforts ceased, and he was overcome.
On another occasion, some of the crew were
in the boat three miles from the schooner, when
a large tiger was observed following in their
wake; he betrayed no disposition to annoy
them, but kept at a distance from the boat all
the time; the seamen, unacquainted with his
cunning, were induced to pursue him, but soon
found their ignorance of the animal's character
had betrayed them into very imminent danger,
which they were now likely to pay very dearly
for; the tiger waited their approach, and then
commenced the battle, when the seamen in-
stantly retreated for their vessel, and with the
utmost difficulty succeeded in keeping him from
upsetting them.
Some of the sailors tasted the milk of the sea
tiger which they had killed, and found it excel-


446
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
lent. By many persons it is supposed that the
sea tiger and walrus are the same; but they
differ in several particulars, such as the number,
size, shape, and relative position of the teeth, as
well as in the form of the head, which of the
walrus bears a strong resemblance to that of
the human species.


CHAPTER X X I.
A LIST OF MODERN ASSERTED DISCOVERIES, NOT
GENERALLY RECORDED ON CHARTS OR
MAPS IN USE.
Sundry islands, and description of them. Their situations, and by
whom discovered.
Pike's Island, latitude 26° 19. south, longitude
1050 16' west, discovered in 1809.
Ducie's Island, latitude 24° 26' south, longitude
1240 37' west.
Mitchill's Group, latitude 90 18' south, longitude
1790 45' east, discovered by Captain Barrett,
in the ship Independence, of Nantucket. This
group is inhabited.
Rocky Island, latitude 100 45' south, longitude
1790 28. east, variation 11° east, discovered
by Captain Barrett, of Nantucket.
Swain's Island, latitude 59° 30' south, longitude
100° west, by calculation, discovered by Cap-
tain Swain, of Nantucket, in 1800. Resorted
to by many seals.


448
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
Tack's Island, latitude 170 north, longitude 1550
east. Very low, and inhabited.
Worth’s Islands, latitude 8° 45' north, longitude
151° 30' east, five in number.
Tuck's reef and sail rocks, nine in number, la-
titude 6° 20' south, longitude 1590 30' east.
Rambler's reef, latitude 21° 45' north, longitude
1750' 12' east.
Rambler's reef, latitude 23° 29' north, longitude
178° 13' east.
Rambler's reef, latitude 23° 30' north, longitude
178° 31' east. These, from Tuck's Island,
were all discovered by Captain William
Worth, second in the Rambler, of Nantucket,
in 1829.
Jefferson's Island, latitude 180 27 north, longi-
tude 115° 30' west, discovered by a ship out
of Salem, April 8th, 1826.
Gardner's Island, latitude 4° 30' south, longi-
tude 174° 22' west.
Coffin's Island, latitude 31° 13' south, longitude
1780 54' west.
Great Ganges Island, latitude 10° 25' south,
longitude 1600 45' west. Inhabited.
Little Ganges Island, latitude 100 south, longi-
tude 1610 west. Inhabited, and affording
cocoa-nuts, &c. These four last mentioned
were discovered by Captain J. Coffin, in the


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
449
ship Ganges, out of Nantucket. The natives
were friendly, and readily brought off to the
ship cocoa-nuts, &c.
Unknown Island, latitude 5° south, longitude
155° 10' west, about ten miles long, and two
wide; rocky shore.
Reaper Island, latitude go 55' south, longitude
152° 40' west. Low, woody, and uninha-
bited. Discovered by Captain Coffin, in
1828.
Group Islands, latitude 31° 25' south, longitude
between 129° 27 and 130° 15' west, disco-
vered by Captain J. Mitchel, in 1823.
Lancaster reef, latitude 27° 2' south, longitude
146° 27' west, tending six miles N. E. and
S. W. discovered by Captain Weeks, of New
Bedford, 1830.
Oeno Island, latitude 23° 57' south, longitude
131° 5' west, about eighty miles N. W. by N.
of Pitcairn's Island. A dangerous reef puts
out from the south point. Discovered by
Captain G. B. Worth, in the ship Oeno, of
Nantucket.
Unknown reef, latitude 27° 46' north, longitude
174° 56' west, rocks above water, with sand
bars, where the ship Pearl, Captain Clark,
and Hermes, Captain Phillips, were wrecked,
April 26th, 1822. The crews were saved,
57


450
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
and taken off, after remaining two months on
the reef.
Smut-face Island, latitude 6° 16' south, longi-
tude 1770 19' east.
Parker's Island, latitude 1° 19' south, longitude
174° 30' east.
Brown's Island, latitude 18° 11' south, longitude
175° 48' east. These three last mentioned
islands were discovered by Captain Plasket,
in the ship Independence, of Nantucket, in
1828.
Chase's Island, latitude 2° 28' south, longitude
1760 east.
Lincoln's Island, latitude 1° 50' south, longitude
175° east.
Brind's Island, latitude 0° 20' north, longitude
174° east.
Dundas Island, latitude 00 10' north, longitude
1740 12 east. These four last mentioned
islands were discovered by Captain Chase, in
the ship Japan, of Nantucket, in 1827 and
1828.
Nixon's rock, latitude 40° south, longitude 570
36' west, six feet above water, tending N. E.
a cable's length. Discovered by Captain
Dixon, in the Ariel.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
451
New Discovery Island, latitude 150 311 south,
longitude 176° 11' east. Inhabited, and dis-
covered by Captain Hunter, in the Carmelite.
Valetta Island, latitude 21° 2' south, longitude
1330 13' east, discovered by Captain Philips,
in the Valetta, July 10th, 1825.
Whale rock, latitude 51° 51' south, longitude
64° 32' west, just above water, with much
kelp attached to it.
Gardner's Island rock, latitude 25° 3. north,
longitude 167° 40' west, about one mile in
circumference, and one hundred and fifty feet
in height.
Allen's reef, latitude 25° 28' north, longitude
1700 20' west. These were both discovered
by Captain J. Allen, in the ship Maro, of
Nantucket, in 1821.
Starbuck's Group, latitude on the equator, lon-
gitude 173° 30' east.
Loper's Island, latitude 60 7 south, longitude
1770 40' east.
Dangerous reef, latitude 5° 30' south, longitude
1750 west.
Tracy's Island, latitude 70 30' south, longitude
1780 45' east.
New Nantucket, latitude 00 11' north, longitude
176° 20' west.
!


452
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
Granger's Island, latitude 18° 58. north, longi-
tude 146° 14' east. These six last mentioned
were discovered by Nantucket whale ships,
from 1820 to 1826.
Fisher's Island and Group, latitude 260 30
north, longitude 141° 1' east, discovered by
the British ship Transit, Captain J. J. Coffin,
September 12th, 1824.
Captain Coffin reports, that he found this
group to consist of six islands, besides a number
of rocks and reefs. The largest he called Fish-
er's Island; the second in size, Kidd's Island,
after his owners in Bristol, England; the third,
being the most southern of the group, he called
South Island; the fourth, from the abundance
of pigeons found thereon, he named Pigeon Isl-
and. About four miles E. N. E. of South Isl-
and, lie two high, round, islands, to which the
captain gave no names. Fisher's Island is
about four leagues in length, tending S. S. E.
and N. N. W. Kidd's Island, the most western
of the group, lies S. E. from the N. W. part of
Fisher's Island. Between the two last men-
tioned islands, is a beautiful clear bay, two
miles wide, and five miles up to the head. The
Transit sailed up the bay about four miles,
where near to Fisher's Island, a fine small bay
was found; to this Captain C. very properly


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
453
gave the name of Coffin's Harbor. It is shel-
tered from all winds, except the W. S. W., and
has no current or swell; here, too, he anchored
his ship in fifteen fathoms water. In three days
the captain took on board of his ship fifty tons
of water, of the purest quality, and a sufficient
supply of wood; both of these very essential
articles he found very abundant, and more easily
procured than at any other place he was ever
at. Turtle and pigeons were also so plentiful,
that any quantity could be obtained, a limita-
tion for the number to be taken daily being laid
by Captain C., to prevent a useless waste. The
bay is well stored with a variety of excellent
fish, and plenty of lobsters. Among the pro-
ductions of the island, is the cabbage tree,
which can easily be obtained in any quantity.
No quadruped, reptile, or insect of any kind,
not even an ant, was discovered by Captain
Coffin. The islands are covered with large and
beautiful forest trees; on any of these there
was no mark, made by a knife or otherwise,
traceable, by which it could be made to appear
that man had ever been on any of these islands.
For ships employed in the whale fishery, or
bound from Canton to Port Jackson, or the
north-west coast of America, they furnish a de-
sirable place for refreshment. These islands
2


454
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
are about south of Sandown Point, on the coast
of Japan; the distance may be sailed in four
days. The latitude and longitude as above
given, is for the harbor where Captain Coffin
anchored, and took in his wood, water, &c.
Covell's Group, consisting of fourteen islands,
lies in latitude 49 30' north, longitude 1680
40' east. Discovered by Captain H. Covell,
in the bark Alliance, May 7th, 1831. The
group is inhabited.


CHAPTER X X I I.
MANNER OF PROCURING AND PREPARING FOR
MARKET, SANDAL WOOD, EATABLE BIRD's
NESTS, BEACH LA MER, &c.
Sandal wood. Where and how to be procured. Its uses.- Josh
paper.— Wild nutmeg-trees.-Eatable bird's nests.—Manner of
collecting and preserving them.-Beach la mer. -Where and
how to be obtained. How to be preserved.-Coral moss.-
Mother-of-pearl.-How procured.
SANDAL Wood. This valuable wood is thought
to be a native plant within the torrid zone, or
growing solely under the 25th degree of latitude
from the equator. It grows only in a mountain-
ous country, and most generally on an elevation
above the second region in the mountain range.
It was formerly procured from the peninsula of
India, but for the last twenty years, many car-
goes, principally by American enterprise, have
been taken on board at the Fee Jee and other
mountainous islands in the Pacific. At these
places the wood is considered to be the sole
property of the king or chief, and whenever a


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
459
In searching for the sandal wood on those isl-
ands situated in the most western part of the
Pacific Ocean, wild nutmeg-trees have been
found in groves, or rather intermixed with the
forest trees. The nut is of greater length than
the domestic nut, and of but little value, being
in truth not worth gathering, for when plucked
it is weak in richness and spiciness of flavor,
and therefore soon loses even the little of this it
ever had. The tree appears to grow longer and
ranker than the common nutmeg-tree.
Eatable bird's nests. This article is the nest
of a small bird, of a half circle in form, and
very similar to the barn swallow's nest, though
not so large or bulky by at least the one third ;
the nest is of a gummy thread about the size of
sowing twine, the better kind being of a white
or bright and clear amber color, the yellow and
black are of much less value. In all probabi-
lity it has not yet been discovered where or from
what the bird procures this substance, many
supposing it to be from the gum of some tree;
the author is of opinion, however, that it is a
marine production, as when cooked, the taste,
an epicure will discover, to be somewhat similar
to the marine coral moss. The nests are at-
tached to the clefts in the rocks on the sea-
coast, and to gather them, the boat should be


460
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
one of a buoyant kind, in a rough sea or surge;
in this the collecting bands should be in pairs,
one with a small hook something similar in
shape to a bill-hook, only more hooked at its
point, in length six or eight inches, well secured
to a pole ten or eighteen feet long, with which
the nests can be hooked off, while his compa-
nion with a scoop-net a little bagging, about
the size of, or larger than, a barrel head, catches
them as they fall; a quantity being thus col-
lected the feathers and dirt are carefully re-
moved, the nests then after being thoroughly
dried in the sun are packed in boxes for the
market. Great care should be first taken to
line the boxes with dry mats or thick paper;
the nests should by all means be kept from being
wet or sprinkled with the spray of the sea
when collected, as in this case it will be difficult
to preserve them for market, for if again dried,
and to all appearance perfectly so, before packed,
they will, nevertheless, in a short time after they
are stowed in the vessel's hold, begin to give,
become moist, soft, mouldy, and spoil, or at least
be considered as damaged, and not prime. The
Chinese highly prize this article for their soups
and stews, though from its rarity and high price,
only the nobles and wealthy can often afford a
dish of eatable bird's nest for their table.


462
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
men still at each end get out, and while wading
along pick up the beach la mer in from one to
three or more feet depth of water, placing the
same very carefully in the punt, in this way
proceeding until she is full, or until half flood,
when the water becomes too deep, or the surf
coming in, obliges them to break off from the
reef; the men then proceed to the landing with
whatever they may have obtained, where, pro-
tected from the sun's rays, they prepare to dress
the article by making an incision with a knife
the whole length on the flat side, then taking
out the entrail, for there is but one, extending
its length, containing sand, with particles which
in appearance resemble the coral moss; after this,
being gently washed, it is immersed in a boiling
caldron of strong pickle, with a small matter of
saltpetre; a mite of allum added to the pickle
will help to give the beach la mer a more clear
amber color, which is one of the main points
that recommend it at the China market; when
sufficiently scalded, which experience must de-
cide, it is taken to the flakes to be dried; these
flakes are erected by means of crotches, having
poles and cross-pieces running horizontally, the
whole being covered with bramble twigs; this
at an elevation of two feet or thereabout from
the ground, allows the breeze to pass freely


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
463
about them; while drying on these flakes, the
smoke from burning chips, saw dust, &c. will
not only assist in drying, but add to their value.
It may also be moderately smoked in a house
after being dried and cured in the sun, or by the
fire, which answers nearly as well, and after
being thus carefully dried and cured, it is in a
condition to be packed in boxes or casks for
market. Care should be exercised that after
being cured it does not get wet, either by the
salt or fresh water, as their arrival then at mar-
ket in a prime and sound state may be pre-
vented. There are three kinds or species of
the beach la mer, these are designated by the
Chinese as the black, yellow, and white; it is
the first mentioned which is most highly es-
teemed, and bears the highest price among them.
for their soups and stews. It is very necessary
that a person who undertakes to collect it
should have had experience in the business, and
be well able to distinguish the different kinds;
if not well cured the value is lessened, and as to
the white, although the Chinese will purchase
it, yet it is at a price which will not pay the ex-
pense of procuring it.
The marine vegetable rock herb, or coral moss.
This is a vegetable collected from the coral
reefs, or rocks, and esteemed by the Chinese so


464
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
highly as to be considered a royal dish, being,
nevertheless, exceedingly unpalatable to Euro-
pean or American tastes. In both smell and
taste, when served up on the table, it is like a
vessel's bilge water, immediately creating nau-
sea, and an aversion to it; neither does it pos-
sess the richness of the eatable bird's nest, or
beach la mer. The Chinese, in their mode of
cooking it, first parboil a piece of corned pork,
which is then placed in the centre of a pan or
dish, and covered over and around with this
moss, several inches thick; the whole is then
taken to the oven and well baked, after which,
being then very brittle, it is served up on the
table: when the pork is cut up finely, and
mixed with the vegetable, it is then considered
as a dish ready for the chop sticks of the wealthy
and great among the Chinese.
The moss is
collected from the reef or rocks at near low
water, then picked over and scalded in a caul-
dron of boiling liquor of brine, washed clean of
the sand, &c., and when well dried, packed in
mats or baskets for market; if rightly cured,
and of first chop, the moss will be of a light
brown color, and clear as amber: the author is
of opinion, that the substance of which the eat-
able bird's nests is composed, is from this moss.


FANNING’S VOYAGES.
465
Mother-of-pearl. In procuring this article we
have managed, by first proceeding to the pearl
banks and there anchoring, after receiving on
board from a friendly island in the Pacific, a num-
ber of native divers; in this place, the oysters lie
at the bottom in from three to more fathoms of
water; provided with a wicker basket, in which
is placed ten or twenty pounds of stone ballast,
as the depth of water may require, and to which
the end of a coil of whale warp is made fast;
the native dives, the weight in the basket as-
sisting to carry him quickly to the bottom,
where he picks up the pearl oyster, taking out
the stones as the basket fills up; as soon as a
sufficient weight of the oysters is in, or he wishes
to come to the surface, he gives the signal by
the line, and is quickly hauled up by those who
are in attendance on the vessel's deck for this
purpose; the diver is then allowed some little
time to recover himself for another attempt.
The length of time they are able, by being ac-
customed to it, to remain under water, is truly
astonishing, varying from twenty to thirty mi-
nutes; they also take great pride in striving to
outdo each other in these duties, as well as in re-
maining under the water; still it certainly must
injure their constitutions, for on attaining the
deck again, their eyes appear to have started
59


466
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
from the sockets, while the blood ofttimes oozes
from the mouth, nose, and ears.
After being scraped, scrubbed, and washed
clean, the oysters are spread upon the deck or
ground, where exposed to a hot sun, they in a
short time die; the oyster is then taken out and mi-
nutely examined for the pearls, and the mother,
which is the shell, is dried, and then packed in
casks or baskets, or stowed in bulk in the ves-
sel's hold. While prosecuting their search for
the oysters at the bottom, the divers will collect
a reasonable proportion of turtle shell, as they
occasionally catch the turtle under the rocks.
After the vessel has finished this fishery, she re-
turns with the divers to their native isle, and
settles with, and pays the chief, or themselves,
as has been previously agreed upon, for their
time and services. The Chinese merchants rate
the pearls in five chops; the first chop being the
largest, of the purest water, and perfectly free
from blemish; this is of the greatest value, the
other four being valued proportionably down to
the fifth.


CHAPTER X XI I I.
RECOMMENDATIONS, FOUNDED ON EXPERIENCE, FOR
DOUBLING CAPE HORN FOR THE PACIFIC, WITH
SOME VIEWS UPON THE PRACTICABILITY OF AD-
VANCING AND PENETRATING TO THE SOUTH
POLE.
Superiority of the inner and outer passages over the middle.-Prac-
ticability of reaching the south pole.--Extent of Palmer's Land.
-Extensive bank.
PERSONAL experience, and information received
from commanders of observation, has convinced
the author, that ships in doubling this notedly
tempestuous cape for the Pacific, should not at-
tempt so to do by the ancient and long followed
course, that is, in the range of the middle pas-
sage between Cape Horn and the South Shet-
land Islands, either of the two following routes
being recommended as far preferable.
In the first place, after passing Barnevelt's
Islands, and obtaining sight of the small and
elevated, hat like hammoc on the brow of Cape
Horn, which, as neared, will show its high black


470
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
westward of them, by keeping still on the star-
board tack, or standing to the southward, until
she arrives up to, or above the sixty second de-
gree of south latitude, she will no doubt meet
with a fair south-east wind, which will enable
her quickly to run up her western course, to
80° west or upwards, if her commander pleases,
by keeping in between the latitude of 62° and
65° south, until the same is effected, then bear-
ing up, and steering to the north, until she
crosses the range of the middle passage, when
the south-westers will be a free wind, until she
will have arrived on the coast of Chili, and up
with the latitude of the Island of Mocha, when
it will be found that many days have been saved
in this route around Cape Horn. In addition
to this route's being a saving in time, over the
usual way of keeping the ship working in the
middle passage, it will be found she is much less
injured, and the crew exempt from being
wearied out by the fatigue usually experienced
in following the middle passage, and conse-
quently in much better spirits and condition for
farther duties. It has been ascertained, by
comparison, that at the same time when the
south-western gales were blowing heavy in the
middle passage, they were then moderate at the


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
471
coast,* while at, or above 620 of latitude, they
were not only more moderate, but at the same
time were blowing from the S. S. E. point. It
is believed also, that there is in the middle
channel a never ceasing set or current to the
north-eastward, in addition to the overgrown
mountainous sea that is there met with, to
heave the ship to the leeward. It is, therefore,
for the above mentioned reasons, that the inner
and outer passages are recommended as by far
the best, and most to be preferred at all seasons
of the year. In fact, instances are within the
author's knowledge, where ships in the months
of May, June, July, and August, have made
their passages, by following the coast route from
Cape St. John's to the Island of Mocha, on the
coast of Chili, in less than twenty days, most of
the time while performing it, being attended by
a moderate steering sail gale from the eastern
board, while the same has been made in twenty
odd days, during other months, by the outer
route.
* See Bcechy's Voyage, page 21.


472
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
VIEWS UPON THE PRACTICABILITY OF SAILING OR
ADVANCING TO THE SOUTH POLE.
Various and many opinions have been men-
tioned to the author, respecting the probability
of effecting this object; he, however, is under
the belief, and indeed feels confident, the same
can be accomplished (if undiscovered land is
not in the way) if the right season of the year
is chosen, and proper vessels, amply fitted for so
arduous a service, are selected. The prevailing
idea seems to be, that for an expedition of this
kind to succeed, it should be in readiness at some
port between the latitudes of 300 and 40° south,
so that it may start early in the season, say in
October or November; but from his experience
the author can assure those who entertain this
idea, that it is entirely erroneous, because, the
ice in those months is just then breaking up,
and does not get entirely drifted out of the way
before February; so that to have the fairest
prospects of succeeding, they should not leave
such station certainly before the latter part of
the month of January; by so doing, time would
be given for the ice at the barrier, which is con-
sidered to be between the 60th and 67th degrees


474
FANNING'S VOYAGES,
more mild, with prevailing winds from the
southward.
The report of that persevering navigator,
Weddel, who has sailed farther south than any
other navigator has been known to do, is this,
viz., to the latitude of 74° 15' south; he states,
that at this position the weather was mild as
summer, the wind at the time being from the
south, while the sea was clear in that quarter,
as far as the eye could discover from the mast-
head. This season of the year, viz., the latter
part of February, is the most proper to proceed
south, and there can be no doubt but that Cap-
tain Weddel, had his vessels, by being suitably
fitted, and in a condition to encounter whatever
stress of weather they should have met, war-
ranted him in continuing on, he would so have
done, as will fully appear from his own remarks;
and farther, if any expedition at the above sea-
son, and in such situation, while on the advance
should meet with insurmountable obstacles,
such as land, ice, or the like, she would cer-
tainly have a retreat open, and clear of ice, by
which to return immediately to the northward,
should circumstances renderit indispensably
necessary so to do, even as late as up to the
month of May, such retrograde movement being
farther secured by the set, or current, which, at


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
475
all seasons of the year, is found in this high la-
titude to be coming from the pole, and setting
towards the equator. His own acquaintance
therewith has forbidden the author to believe that
ice ever forms or can make on the surface of the
sea water unless there is some shore or iceisland
at which it may commence, so that a passage
for retreat between Palmer's Land and Southern
Thule, must remain open until June, although
it may be firmly closed across during the months
of July, August, September, and October, by
the ice making out from those lands, and aided
by the remaining iceislands. In November it
will again commence giving way and breaking
up. With such encouragement, and such good
grounds for believing in eventually accomplish-
ing so desirable an object, the author would
here inquire how an expedition, well directed
and perseveringly conducted, could fail of suc-
cess in either reaching the South Pole, or mak-
ing new discovery of land, which perhaps in
value may far exceed our imagination, while
furthermore, a thorough examination of Palm-
er's Land might be accomplished. In fact, I
feel so confident that success must crown such an
expedition, and so great is
my
faith in a favor-
able result, that although advanced in years,
and by this advised to remain at home, I would


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
477
great bank of Newfoundland, may be connected
with extensive land to the south of it; it is
therefore probable that a track pursued across
the icy barrier in about the 120th degree of
west longitude, will offer the clearest passage
from the Pacific towards the South Pole.


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
479
requisite crew, and also to wait the completing
of the fitments of our consort, the brig Anna-
wan, Captain Nathaniel B. Palmer. On the
16th day of October, 1829, having received your
instructions by special messenger, and being also
notified that the Annawan was ready for sea,
and would join me at the distance of four
leagues south from the light on the east end of
Long Island, we put to sea with all despatch,
with the wind blowing a strong breeze from the
eastward which soon after increased to a heavy
gale, and so continued for three days, when it
moderated and suddenly veered around to the
westward. We had not, however, the good for-
tune to have a meeting with our consort, the
Annawan, until both vessels arrived at the third
appointed rendezvous. The two brigs, on start-
ing, made the best of their way for Port Hatches,
at the island of Staten Land, in the vicinity of
Cape Horn, where we wooded and watered,
thence taking our departure on the 22d day
of January, 1830, and proceeding to the south,
we then had a lengthy cruise of much anxi-
ety and suffering towards the icy region, for the
discovery of lands to the westward of Palmer's
Land, and likewise in search for the land said
to have been seen by Captains Macy and Gardi-
ner, to the south-westward of Cape Horn, of


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
481
the Annawan, and deliver a portion of his crew
over to the United States' Consul there. This
was the cause of so great delay that it became
too late in the season to enable me to act accord-
ing to your instructions, and to proceed to the
unexplored parts of the Northern Pacific, coast
of Japan, eastern coast of Asia, &c. In this
dilemma and disappointment, a consultation
was had with Captain Palmer and the gentle-
men composing the scientific corps, when, as a
measure which it was thought would tend much
to make our men contented, and proceed in a
spirit of harmony and perseverance to the north-
ward, it was resolved to proceed forthwith with
the vessels to the coast of Araucania, and en-
deavor to obtain a friendly communication with
that nation of whom so little knowledge is pos-
sessed, and if so fortunate as to succeed in this,
and also in being enabled to procure a good col-
lection of furs, seal skins, &c., on its coast,
which could be shipped and forwarded home,
the time would be profitably employed until
the next season for proceeding to the North
Pacific should come about.
Accordingly we shaped the course of the
brigs for that coast, and on the twenty-second
day of July, landed Messrs. Reynolds and Wat-
son, of our scientific corps, at the river Arauco,
61


484
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
relation to all the outer islands of the archipe-
lago, and have pilots on board, in case of need
from thick or bad weather, to run into one of
these harbors with greater confidence and
safety.
Messrs. Reynolds and Watson, in their at-
tempted embassy, had been successful beyond
our most sanguine expectations, and on receiv-
ing information from some Araucanian fisher-
men at the archipelago, that these gentlemen
were then on the banks of a river in about the
latitude of 39° south, having been received in a
very friendly manner, and allowed to pass into
the interior of the country, where no stranger
had been permitted to come for one hundred and
fifty years past, we immediately started with
the brigs for the bay, into which the river
spoken of discharges itself, and anchoring by
town near its mouth, discovered, by the help of
our glasses, a body of several hundred armed
Araucanian warriors drawn up to oppose our
landing, and to force us as speedily as possible
to quit their shores. To carry these into effect,
several pirogues, in sight at a small distance up
the river, were seen to be full of armed men for
the attack; so soon, however, as the head ca-
cique, or chief, was given to understand that the
brigs were the vessels which had brought


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
489
[True copy.)
Department of State, United States,
Washington, Jan. 20th, 1830.
To Edmund Fanning, Esq., New York city.
SIR,-Yours of the 28th ultimo was duly re-
ceived, and agreeably to the request therein
contained, the department has made favorable
mention of the commanders of the vessels Se-
raph and Annawan (and the expedition gene-
rally) to the public functionaries of the United
States in Mexico, Chili, and Peru, and has also
requested the navy department to afford equal
facilities to the expedition, through our naval
commanders in the South Atlantic and Pacific
Oceans.
I am, Sir, Yours Respectfully,
WM. COVENTRY H. WADDELL, Agent.
S Post marked, Department of State, United States,
free; Martin Van Beuren.
It is as well perhaps here to state, for the
better understanding of the reader, that the de-
tails of the preceding chapters, and recorded in
this volume, form but a very limited portion of
the many voyages made by, or under the agency
of the author; these in all amount to upwards
62


FANNING'S VOYAGES.
495
His Brittanic Majesty's ship Adventure, Port Famine,
Strait of Magellan, July 19th, 1828.
To Captain E. Fanning, Stonington.
Dear Sir, I take the opportunity to return
you my thanks for the newspapers, by Cap-
tain Benjamin S. Cutler, of the Uxor. We
have had lately very hard weather, in conse-
quence of which our survey work goes on very
slowly. I believe this climate and coast are
well known to you, and I need therefore only
say that this seems to have been a harder win-
ter than usual; to us it has proved a very un-
healthy one, for we have lost three men, and
have now several sick with the scurvy. In our
explorations, a very considerable channel has
been lately found passing through Terra del
Fuego, making two main islands, commencing
at St. Magdalena Sound and coming out near
Cape Noir, but I believe it has many communi-
cations with the sea between that cape and
Christmas Sound.
I am, Dear Sir,
Very Respectfully,
Your Obliged Servant,
PHILLIP P. KING, Com. R. N.


496
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
The Captain Cutler spoken of in the prece-
ding letter, is a worthy American citizen, and an
expert and observing navigator, one who in per-
forming several passages both to the westward
and eastward through Magellan (by some au-
thors Magalhanes or Magallanes) Straits, has
acted as his own pilot; he has observed to the
author, that as to the dangers and difficulties in
making the passage through this strait, he would
prefer so doing withoût a pilot, than through
Long Island Sound. In addition to his opinion,
there are many advantages presented to com-
manders of vessels, such as convenient places
for anchorage, for the wooding and watering of a
ship; these are not to be excelled by any in the
known world, so that the passage through this
strait is recommended as being preferable to the
doubling of Cape Horn, more especially to all
vessels bound from the Pacific to the South
Atlantic Ocean; a very great deal of time may
be saved, there will be less risk, smoother
water, milder weather, &c. by running for and
making Cape Pillar, or rather for Direction
Isles (Evangelists) in latitude 520 23' south.
These islands too are so bold that though it
should be blowing a gale from the westward at
the time that a vessel might heave in sight of
them, attended also by thick stormy weather,


498
FANNING'S VOYAGES.
safely to an anchor. At this period, if the crew
in consequence of recent duty in bad weather
be much fatigued, they could be allowed time
to recruit themselves, the vessel proceeding on
her way at any time after it might be thought
proper; while should any of the natives of either
shore be met with, they will be found to be
friendly in their dispositions.
In fact, such is the superiority of this route,
that a commander, after once passing from west
to east through this Strait of Magellan, it is
thought will never after desire to double the
Horn in preference to it. It is still further re-
commended that every vessel should have as a
guide the excellent chart and book of directions
of a survey made under Commodore P. P.
King, commander in his Brittanic Majesty's
navy.
As an evidence of the confidence that can be
placed in Captain Cutler's observations, the
reader is referred to the book of directions of
survey by the Adventure and Beagle, ships
under Captain King, page 129, where the com-
modore remarks, “We met this intelligent per-
son two or three different times whilst employed
upon the survey, and received much valuable,
and what afterwards proved to be correct infor-


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