70?

















A NARRATIVE
EXPLORATORY VISIT
TO EACH OF THE
CMSULAK CITIES OF CHINA.
AND TO THE
ISLANDS OF HONG KONG AND CHUSAN,
IN BEHALF OF THE
(Eljtxrcl) lUigsionarg Bociftg
IN THE YEARS 1844, 1346, 1846.
BY THE
REV. GEORGE SMITH, M. A.,
OF MAUDALEN HALL, OXFORD, AND*EaTE MISSIONARY IN CHINA.
NEW YORK:
HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,
FRANKLIN SQUARE.
1857.





PREFACE.
The author of the following pages deems it right, at
the very outset, to state that this volume is not a mere
narrative of missionary proceedings. The primary
object of his tour among the newly-opened cities of
China was to explore the ground, and to prepare the
way for other missionaries of the Church of England,
by collecting statistical facts, by recording general ob-
servations, and by furnishing detailed data for rightly
estimating the moral, social, and political condition of
that peculiar nation. The reader must, therefore, be
prepared to find in this volume a variety of topics han-
dled, and of information supplied, which might appear
less appropriate in a book professedly devoted to a
strict narrative of missionary work. The author has
felt that nothing which can afford an insight into the institutions and character of the Chinese, however re-
1


iv PREFACE.
motely affecting the missionary work, can be inoppor-
tune or unimportant in directing the mind to a proper
selection of means for the extension of the Redeemer's
kingdom. The following are extracts from the instructions de-
livered by the Church Missionary Society to the au-
thor and the fellow-laborer by whom he was accompa-
nied, in the voyage from England, and in the earliei
part of his residence in China:—
"In the first instance, your mission must necessarily
be exploratory; and in such a work the Committee must
rather rely upon your own judgment and prudence than
upon any instructions which they can furnish you."
* • • • * •
"After availing yourselves of every information which
can be obtained at Hong Kong, from these and other
sources, it is the wish of the Committee that you should
visit each of the five open ports of China, at such time and
in such manner as may be most likely to further your ob-
jects, in order that you may be able, after full investiga-
tion of the relative importance and facilities, in respect of
missionary operations, of each accessible point, to furnish
the Committee with sufficient data for determining in what
spot and in what mode a Mission of this Society may be
best commenced. The Committee invite you also freely to 


PREFACE. V communicate to them your own judgment, and the sug-
gestions which you may feel inclined to offer to them.
But until you hear from them in reply, you must consider
your measures as merely of a preparative and temporary
kind." The Church Missionary Society had formerly sent
an agent to Singapore and to Macao—the Rev. E. B.
Squire, the present vicar of Swansea. On the breaking
out of the war he was compelled, by the delicate state
of Mrs. Squire's health, to embark for Europe. When
the intelligence arrived in England of the treaty of
Nanking, and the opening of China to missionary ef-
forts, many urgent solicitations were addressed to the
Committee to resume their attempt of establishing a
mission in China. They were for a time reluctantly
compelled to decline the call through want of funds.
At this juncture, an anonymous donor, who wished to
be known only under the signature of 'EXaxiaroTepog,
"less than the least," gave the large donation of £6000
consols to the Society for the special object of com-
mencing a Mission in China. The donation was ac-
cepted on this condition; and in the beginning of June,
1844, the Rev. T. M'Clatchie, B.A., and the author,
embarked for China. Mr. M'Clatchie is now the only
missionary of the Society in China, and has already


Vi PREFACE.
commenced preaching to the Chinese in the city of
Shanghai. The author, in conclusion, expresses his earnest hope
and prayer that this narrative of his exploratory tour
in China may be accepted by the Great Husbandman
of the missionary vineyard, and be made instrumental
in exciting other laborers to enter on this promising
field of missionary enterprise, from which he himself
has been, in the providence of God, removed by the
failure of health. GEORGE SMITH.
Church Missionary Housi,
London, April, 1847.


CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
DEPARTURE FROM HONG KONG TO CANTON. Objects of Visit to Canton—Voyage in Chinese Vessel—Native Crew—
Whampoa—Canton River—LanaTng at Foreign Factories—State of Pub-
lic Feeling toward Foreigners—Chinese Teacher, Choo—Budhist Priest's
Visit—Leang Afa Paoi 3
CHAPTER II. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY OF CANTON. Early History and Civilization—Ancient commercial Celebrity—Early Mo-
hammedan Accounts—Extended Intercourse with Europeans in the Six-
teenth Century—Troubles on Tartar Conquest of China—Topography
of City—Division and mutual Checks of Government—Difficulty of For-
eigners entering the City Proper—Crowded Population—Narrow Streets
—Shops—River Population—Blind Beggars—Medical Missionary Hos-
pital; its moral Influence—The Patients—A poor Scholar—Surgical
Operations—The Parsces 13
CHAPTER III.
FURTHER ACCOUNT OF CANTON. Visit to Honan Monastery — Numerous Temples, Monks, and Nuns in
Canton—Universal Idolatry—Visit of some petty Mandarins, and Priest's
Alarm—Religious Services—Interview with a High Chinese military
Officer—Pending Examinations for Keu-jin Literary Degree—General
Excitement and Thirst for literary Distinction—Retarding Influence on
national Improvement—Notification of successful Candidates — Public Honors—Visit of Tang-shin, a literary Chinese 28
1*


viii
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV. EXCURSIONS INTO THE SUBURBS OF CANTON. The Beggars' Square—Excursion into rural Hamlets of Honan—Visit from
Leang Afa's Son A-tuh—Excursion with a native Preacher on the Banks
of the River—A native Book composed and distributed to discourage
female Infanticide—Chinese Illuminations and street Theatricals . 42 CHAPTER V. REMOVAL TO MACAO, AND RETURN TO HONG KONG. Voyage to Macao—Description of the Place—Its former Importance and
present Decay—Origin of the Settlement—Its Peculiarity as a Missionary
Station—Popish Intolerance—Morrison and Milne—Voyage to Hong
Kong—Detention at Hong Kong—Missionary Excursions—Villages of
Hong Kong—Villages on the Mainland of China—Agong, a native Preach-
er—Ordinance of the British Government against Secret Societies—Political Origin of the "Triad Society"—Chinese Population of Hong Kong
—Case of A-quei—A native Juggler .57
CHAPTER VI. UNSUCCESSFUL VOYAGE ALONG THE EASTERN COAST.
AND SECOND VISIT TO CANTON. Chinese Assault on three British Gentlemen at Canton—Remonstrance of
British Plenipotentiary—Rumored Disturbances at Amoy—Opportunity
of a Passage in a War-Steamer sent thither—General Character of the
Coast—Successive Points of Shore—Accident, and compulsory Return
under sail to Hong Kong—Voyage to Canton—Recent imperial Edict of
Toleration in favor of Christianity 75 CHAPTER VII. REAL EXTENT OF MISSIONARY OPENINGS AT CANTON. Projected Missionary Services at the "Ningpo Exchange"—Alarm of the
superintending Officers—Friendliness of the better Classes—Defective
Courage of native Preachers—Riotous Interruption of a religious Service
by a Chinese Mob—Distribution of Tracts—Invitation by a petty Man-
darin to accompany him into the City; his subsequent Fright at the Propo-
sal being acceded to—Ineffectual Attempts to enter the City Gate . 84 CHAPTER VIII. FURTHER INCIDENTS AT CANTON. Visit to Yun-tang, a Chinese Gentleman—Interest of Chinese in the Arts,
Inventions, and Astronomy of the West—Curiosity of a Priest—Native


CONTENTS.
ix
Treatise on Astronomy—Chinese Ingenuity, and Ignorance of physical
Sciences — Execution-Ground — " Temple of Longevity" — Powtinqua's
Gardens—Howqua's suhurban Dwelling—Neglected Education of Fe-
males in China—Annual Procession in honor of the Idol Shing-kea—
General Review of missionary Facilities at Canton . .95 CHAPTER IX. DEPARTURE FOR SHANGHAI. Arrival of Bishop Boone at Hong Kong—Recent Acts of the Triennial Con-
vention of the American Protestant Episcopal Church—Embarkation for
Shanghai—Fellow-Passengers—Skill of Chinese Fishermen—Decoy-Fish
—Gale in Formosa Channel—Chusan Group—Entrance of River Yang-
tze-keang—Services on Board—Entrance of Woosung River—Chinese
Forts and Battery—British Opium-Vessels—Landing at Village of Woo-
sung—Overland Journey in Chairs—Arrival at Shanghai . . .110 CHAPTER X. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF SHANGHAI. First Impressions—Topography of City—General Features of surrounding
Country—Climate—Natural Productions—Character of People—Estima-
ted Population—Commercial Importance and Connection with the Inte-
rior—Native Exports—European Trade—Local Authorities—Capture of
City by British Troops—Outport to Soo-chow—Growing Liberality of the
Mandarins—Roman Catholic Settlement—General View of Shanghai as a
Missionary Station — Tabular View of average Temperature for one
Year . 120 CHAPTER XI. INCIDENTS AT SHANGHAI. A Roman Catholic Ruin—Missionary Excursion into the Interior—Roman
Catholic Villagers — Preaching in heathen Temples — Visit to northern
Parts of the City — Triumphal Arch to a Christian Mandarin — The
"Ching-wang-meaou" — Newly-canonized Hero-Warrior — Caricature
Shops—Missionary Services—Trip round the City Walls— Visit to a Co-
rean Vessel—Romish Church in Corea—The "Hall of United Benevo-
lence"—" Foundling Hospital"—The "Hall of the Lord of Heaven"—
Visit from a Corean Sailor—Popish Mariolatry 126 CHAPTER XII. ARRIVAL AT NINGPO. Voyage to Ningpo—Descent of the Yang-tze-keang—Bay of Chapoo—Chi-
nese Pilot—City of Chin-hai—Ascent of River and Arrival at Ningpo—


X
CONTENTS.
Renewed Civility of Custom-House Officers — Proposed Lodging in a
Taouist Monastery—Renting a Chinese House, and attendant Formalities
—Access to the Family of a Chinese Patriarch—Absurd Principles of na-
tive Medicine—Facts illustrative of Chinese Ideas on Marriage—Situation
of House—The Tower of Ningpo—Visit to a Mohammedan Mosque—Re-
turn Visit of a Mohammedan Priest—A Roman Catholic Patient . 141 CHAPTER XIII.
EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR. Personal Adventures on the Journey—Rural Scenery—Arrival at the Budh-
ist Monastery at Teen-tung—Visit to the Abbot — Library — Religious
Hopes of Budhism—Neighboring Villages and Out-Temples—Budhist
Rosary — A Village Schoolmaster—Return to Ningpo — The "Ching-
wang-meaou"—Temples in honor of Confucius—Visits to a Chinese
Vessel 158 CHAPTER XIV. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF NINGPO. Topography—Local Magistrates—System of provincial Government—Dis-
grace and Ruin of former Mandarins—Effects of the British War on Rul-
ers and People—Attempt of the Chinese to recapture the City—Liter-
ary Reputation of Ningpo—Privileges of Scholars—Native Products and
Employments of Inhabitants—Former Splendor of the Place—Facilities
as a Missionary Station—Climate—Moral Condition of the People—Re-
capitulation 168
CHAPTER XV. VISIT TO THE ISLAND OF CHUSAN AND FURTHER
INCIDENTS AT NINGPO. Visit to the Island of Chusan—City of Ting-hai—Interview with a Romish
Padre—Similarity between Popish and Budhistic Ceremonies—Tradi-
tionary Origin of Bonzes—Return to Ningpo—Annual Offerings to de-
parted Spirits—Temporary Abode in a Taouist Monastery—Taouist Lay
Brother—Female Worshipers—Taouist Abbot and Priests—Chinese Gar-
den and artificial Grounds—Visit to a native Doctor—Mohammedan Shop-
keeper—Application of Opium Smokers for Medicine—Visit to a Budhist
Nunnery—A native Pawnbroker—Visit to his Excellency the Taou-tai—
Ceremony of Reception—A Chinese Entertainment—Topics of Conver-
sation—Visit to the deposed Taou-tai; his public Integrity and Misfor-
tune* . . . , . 177
V
V


CONTENTS.
xi
CHAPTER XVI.
SECOND EXCURSION TO TEEN-TUNG.
Animated Appearance of Country—Ancestral Temples—Contributions to
a Bag for Idols—Chinese Agriculture—Gratuitous Travelers' Rest—Drag-
on-Boats—Budhist Vigils in a Monastery—Exploratory Visit to distant
Villages—Illiterate Priests—Inquiring Spirit of a Tea-Farmer—Friendliness of the Abbot—Hospitality of the Villagers—Grace to an Idol—Pro-
cess of consulting the Idols—Ascent of the •' Tae-pih-san" Ridge—Enter-
tainment by a Chinese Gentleman—Return to Ningpo , . 196
CHAPTER XVII. CONCLUDING OCCURRENCES AT NINGPO, AND DEPARTURE
FOR CHUSAN. Roman Catholics in Ningpo—Chinese Military Archery—Ebullition of
Popular Odium against the new "Cheheen"—Effect of Reading the
New Testament on a native Merchant—Rebellion of Fung-kwa—Re.
pulse of Troops—Final Compromise—A Class of hereditary Bondsmen
—Religious Service—Review of actual missionary Labors at Ningpo—
Arrival at Chusan—The Visit and Reception of the French Embassy—
Christian Services among British Troops in a Budhist Temple . 215 CHAPTER XVIII. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF CHUSAN. Topography—Character of the Population—Natural Productions—Events of
first Capture by the British—Excesses of Troops—Native Pillagers—
Menacing Edicts of Chinese Government—Chinese Kidnappers—Suffer-
ings of British Soldiers—Armistice and Cession of Chusan—Insincerity
of Chinese Government—Recapture of Chusan—Rapid Successes of
British Expedition along the Coast—Treaty of Nanking and Retention
of Chusan—Mingled Influence of British Occupation—British Adminis-
tration of Police—Foreign Trade—Missionary Prospects—Popular Feel-
ing on reverting to their own native Government .... 228 CHAPTER XIX. SECOND VISIT TO SHANGHAI. Voyage to Shanghai—Comparative View of the two Missionary Stations of
Shanaghi and Ningpo—A new Sect of Moralists in the Interior of China—
An original Work on Geography, by Commissioner Lin—Chinese School- ——master and Scholars—A Chinese Graduate's Reverence of the written
Character—A Convict suffering by Deputy—Military Reviews—Offensive
Epithets to Foreigners—Procession of the Taou-tai—Recent Supplement
to the Edict of Toleration—Voyage to Chusan 246


xii
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XX. VISIT TO THE SACKED ISLAND OF POOTOO. Voyage to Pootoo—Various Localities of the Island—The " Pah-kwa"—
.The "Seen-sze"—The " How-sze"—Romantic Scenery—Hospitality of
the Abbot—Priest importuning for Gifts to the Idols—Collegiate System
of Succession to Temple-Benefices—The "Ying-sew"—Palpable Decay
of Budhism—Funeral of a Priest—Avarice and Ignorance of Monks—Questions of People—Visit to the Summit of " Fuh-ting-shan"—A newly-
arrived Votary—General Review of Pootoo, and its Influence in the Diffu-
sion of Budhism 264 CHAPTER XXI.
DEPARTURE FROM CHUSAN TO FOO-CHOW FOO.
Concluding Occurrences at Chusan—Political Fears of the Chinese—Ex-
cursion across the Island—Cases illustrative of the Advantage of medical
missionary Efforts — Voyage to Foo-chow—Roman Catholic Pilots —
The River Min—Picturesque Scenery—Approach to the City . . 279 CHAPTER XXII. DAILY OCCURRENCES AT FOO-CHOW.
Novel Appearance of River Population—The Bridge of Foo-chow—Vivid
Scenes of a Chinese Suburb—British Consulate—View of the City from
the Summit of " Woo-sbih shan"—State of Relations between the Brit-
ish Consul and the local Mandarins—Punishment of some Tartars for
Assault—An Excursion around the City Walls 287 CHAPTER XXIII. FURTHER INCIDENTS AT FOO-CHOW.
Excursions up the River and into the remote Parts of the City—Visit to the
District of the Manchoo Tartars—Anxiety of Police to prevent a Disturb-
ance—Gradual Friendliness of the Tartar Soldiers—The "Hot-Baths"—
Present Position of the Tartars throughout the Empire—The Contingen-
cy of a general Revolution in China considered—Latitudinarianism of
Taouist and Budhist Priests—Roman Catholics—Mohammedans—De-
tailed Occurrences of the New-Moon Festival — Culprits wearing the
wooden Collar—Wretched Class of Beggars—Suburb of Nantai—Fishing
Cormorants—Case of Superstition and Priestcraft .... 300 CHAPTER XXIV. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF FOO-CHOW.
Topography—Local Trade—Opium-Drain of Specie—Native Imports and
Exports—Monetary System—Prospects in reference to a European Trade


contents. xiii
—Character of People—Neighboring Country—Number of resident Grad-
uates, and general System of literary Promotion—Disposition of local
Mandarins—Feeling toward Foreigners—Missionary Aspect . 317 CHAPTER XXV. DEPARTURE TO AMOY. Voyage to Amoy—Description of the Harbor—Capture of Amoy, and Oc-
cupation of Koo-lang-soo by the British—Circumstances attending the
first Arrival of Protestant Missionaries at Amoy—The Island of Koo-
lang-soo—Sufferings of the People from War and Pestilence—Idolatrous
Rites for averting their Calamity—European Graves—The Missionaries'
Burial-Place 330 CHAPTER XXVI. DAILY OCCURRENCES AT AMOY. Interview with the "Hai-hong"—Large Collection of Ancestral Tablets—Idol Shops—Friendliness of People—Missionary Services—Regular At-
tendants—Service for Chinese Females 340 CHAPTER XXVII.
NEW-YEAR FESTIVITIES.
Costomary Observances of the New Year—Moral Tracts by native Schol
ars—Antithetical Sentences over the Entrance of Houses—Busy Adjustment of pecuniary Matters—Annual Cnstom of " Surrounding the Furnace"—A Family Scene—Superstitious Mode of prognosticating the Seasons of the coming Year—New-Year Visits to some Chinese Friends—
Ta laou-yay—Lim-pai—Lim seen-sang—Tan seen-sang—Universal Prevalence of Gambling—A missionary Service 861
CHAPTER XXVIII. NEW-YEAR VISITS OF CEREMONY TO THE HIGH MANDA-
RINS OF AMOY. A Chinese Bride—Visit to the Te-tok, or Chinese Admiral; his Adroitness
in escaping the British War; his recent Disgrace—The Cham-hoo, or
military Commandant; his Discussion with the Missionaries, and Defense
of Idolatry—The Taou-tai, or Prefect, a Manchoo Tartar—The Hai-quen,
or Inspector of Customs, a Manchoo—The Hai-hong, or Lord Mayor—
A Budhist Nunnery—The privileged incorporation of Beggars . . 369


CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXIX. FACTS ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE PREVALENCE AND
EFFECTS OF OPIUM-SMOKING. Visit to Opium-Dens—Confessions of Opium-Smokers—Moral and physical
Effects of Opium—Local System of Smuggling, and Mode of Retail—
Detailed Testimony of ten consecutive Cases of Opium-Smokers, taken
from their own Lips 380 CHAPTER XXX. FACTS ILLUSTRATIVE OF FEMALE INFANTICIDE. Trip to surrounding Villages—Testimony of Villagers as to the Prevalence
and the Motives of Infanticide—Village Clanships—Ancestral Temple—
Village School-house — Confessions of infanticide Parents — Modes of
Death commonly practiced—Hospitality of a medical Patient—Case of
attempted Infanticide—Degradation of the female Sex . . . 390 CHAPTER XXXI. DAILY INCIDENTS AT AMOY, CONTINUED. Chinese Missionary Meeting—Celebration of the Feast of Lanterns—A
Giant Specimen of Pyrotechnic Skill—Cessation of Holydays, and gen-
eral Resumption of Business—The Question of the Ancestral Tablet
Discussed—Chinese Bible-Class—Topics of Missionary Sermons—Origi-
nal Illustrations of Chinese Hearers—Indirect Persecution of a religious
Inquirer 399 CHAPTER XXXII. MANDARINS' ENTERTAINMENT TO THE MISSIONARIES. Revised Translation of the Holy Scriptures—Proceedings at a Meeting of
the Local Translation Committee—Special Entertainment to the Mission-
ary Body, given jointly by the five high Mandarins of Amoy—Previous
Invitation and Arrangements—Ceremonies of Entrance and Reception—
Etiquet of Precedence—Details of Feast—Topics of Conversation—Cere-
monies of Departure—The secret Motives which prompted these Atten-
tions 413
CHAPTER XXXIII. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF AMOY. Early Intercourse with Europe—Commercial Enterprise of the People—Chinese Emigrants—Topography of the City and Island—The " White
Stag Hill"—Boundary Regulations—A Roman Catholic Village—Another


CONTENTS.
XV
explanatory Edict of religious Toleration—Attempts at Concealment by
the Mandarins—Local Prizes for literary Merit—Local Dialect—Moral
Degradation of the People—Missionary Aspect of Amoy . . . 423 CHAPTER XXXIV. DEPARTURE FROM AMOY, AND THIRD VISIT TO CANTON. Incidents of last Sabbath at Amoy—Farewell Attentions of Chinese Friends
—Voyage to Hong Kong—Visit to Canton—Comparative Review of mis-
sionary Openings at Canton and in the Northern Ports of China—Recent
Riots at Canton—Difficulties of Ke-Ying—Present Dangers of China—An
Apology for the Chinese Government in their Exclusion of Opium—The
Duty of the Christian Legislators of Britain 433 CHAPTER XXXV. GENERAL VIEW OF HONG KONG.
First Occupation of Hong Kong—Gradual Influx of Settlers—Topography
of the Island—General Reflections on the Influence and Prospects of Brit-
ain in the East—Ineligibility of Hong Kong as a center of Missionary Op-
erations—Climate—Moral and Social Character of the Chinese Popula-
tion—Diversity of Dialects—European Influences .... 442 CHAPTER XXXVI. GENERAL VIEW OF HONG KONG, CONTINUED. Actual Missionary Labors—Morrison Education Society—Medical Mission-
ary Hospital—Roman Catholic Mission at Hong Kong—Statement of
Views respecting the Education of a native Christian Agency—Printing
Establishments—Superior Missionary Facilities in the four Northern
Ports—General Views of the Missionary Work in China—Qualifications
needed in Missionary Laborers—Appeal to Christian Parents and Youth
of Britain—Concluding Observations—List of Protestant Missionaries in
China 454
A
i


View of Victoria, Hong Kong, from the opposite Main-
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Map of China . . 1
View of Macao 59
Annual Worshiping at Tombs 105
Religious Procession of Chinese Ladies .... 149
Offerings of Boat-People at a Temple near Ningpo . . 197
Dragon-Boats 201
Chinese School ......... 255
Superstitious Rites in a Taouist Temple . . . . 315
Preparations for the New Year . . • , . . . 355
Chinese Gamblers 365
A newly-made Graduate adoring the Ancestral Tablet on
his Promotion 407
View of Hong Kong Harbor from East Point . . . 443


NARRATIVE
OF
A VISIT TO CHINA. CHAPTER I. DEPARTURE FROM HONG KONG TO CANTON. Objects of Visit to Canton—Voyage in Chinese Vessel—Native Crew—
Whampoa—Canton River—Landing at Foreign Factories—State of Pub-
lic Feeling toward Foreigners—Chinese Teacher, Choo—Budhist Priest's
Visit—Leang Afa. On Wednesday evening, October 2d, 1844, a week after
our coming to anchor in the spacious harbor of Hong Kong,
the Rev. T. M'Clatchie and myself embarked on board a
native fast-boat, which we had hired to convey us to Can-
ton. The immediate object of our going thither was to
procure a native teacher of the Mandarin, or court dialect,
and, at the same time, to endeavor to ascertain the precise
nature of local facilities for missionary enterprise, by a
personal survey and temporary residence. We had also
grounds for indulging the hope, that a native Budhist priest,
late abbot of a neighboring temple, and a man of superior
learning, might be induced to become our teacher, and to
permit us to rent apartments in the temple, where we
should have very desirable opportunities of facilitating our
acquaintance with the colloquial medium, by mixing and


4
VOYAGE TO CANTON.
conversing with the numerous resident priests, many ol
whom speak the court dialect. Weighing anchor at about seven p.m., we sailed before a
fresh breeze from the northeast, which carried us along at
about six knots an hour. We were soon beyond the nu-
merous shipping, and passed out of the harbor to the north-
west; the numerous lights which marked the streets and
buildings of the new town of Victoria growing more and
more faint, and at last vanishing altogether from our view.
Sailing through the Cap-singmun channel, which separates
the lofty ridge of the Lantao Island, at the distance of about
a mile, from the rocky elevation of the opposite mainland
of China, we proceeded northward through the eastern
part of the spacious Delta of the Shoo-Keang, or Pearl
River. Our novel position, amid a crew of about twelve
Chinese—the fact of our being alone among heathen peo-
ple—the reflection of the honorable, yet responsible office
we sustained as missionary heralds from the Church of
England to these dark regions of superstition—the import-
ant objects of our mission to China—and the painful evi-
dences, which we were, from time to time, called to wit-
ness of the influence of idolatry over the minds of those on
board, performing their idle, unmeaning religious offerings
—awakened in our minds thoughts of pensive melancholy,
mingled, however, with joy in the prospect of the mission-
ary work, which we had only partially realized in former
times. Our boat had two large mat-sails, which were man-
aged with great skill, being raised and lowered by movable
ropes; so that in a few moments we were at any time able
to alter our tack, or to reef, in order to avoid the sudden
gusts of wind. The sailors lay on the deck in different
parts of the vessel. The central part of the boat was form-
ed into a cabin, with Venetians at the side, forming a kind
of poop above, on which one of the crew kept watch. In
this cabin we laid ourselves down; and, though sleeping
with most of our clothes on our bodies, we succeeded in


CANTON RIVER.
5
obtaining a good night's rest. At daylight we found our-
selves within the Bogue, or Bocca Tigris, the entrance to
the river, and within a few miles of Whampoa. About
noon we found our little vessel gliding through the numerous
fleet of ships from all nations, which occupied the whole
extent of the river, called Whampoa Reach. The wind
becoming moderate, and at last dying away altogether, our
progress thence to Canton was very slow, and, at times,
almost imperceptible. The country around was very beau-
tiful, though, in most parts, presenting a rather monotonous
appearance of paddy-fields, plantain-trees, orange-groves,
bamboo-fences, and a few gardens. The hills were culti-
vated in terraces along their sides to the very top, as-
suming, in some parts, a rocky, precipitous appearance.
Numerous pagodas and native houses, of fantastic architec-
ture, gave a variety to the scenery; while, as we approach-
ed nearer to the provincial city, the old, half-dilapidated
forts, which lined the river on either side as it became nar-
rower, told of the impoverished exchequer of the executive
government. The increased number of houses, the multi-
tudes of native boats, and the density of the smoky atmos-
phere indicated our proximity to Canton. The strange
scenes of a Chinese city, soon presented themselves in all
their vivid and novel force. We rowed slowly along the
center of the river, which is here about three or four fur-
longs wide, through the thousands of strange vessels of every
shape, color, and size which, from every nation of the East,
are attracted by the gains of commerce to this emporium of
the Middle Kingdom. The beating of gongs, the frequent
burning of gilt paper, the noisy discharge of fireworks and
crackers, and the animated looks of curiosity with which
the motley tribes of the river-population regarded our ap-
pearance, tended to enliven the scene. Beyond the river,
with its crowded myriads of naturalized tenants, one con-
tinued mass of buildings, of nearly one uniform appearance,
lay before us. Here and there some pagoda or mosque, A*


6
ARRIVAL IN CANTON. or, again, the abode of some more opulent citizen, varied
the monotony of aspect. The British flag, floating above
the consular residence on our right, soon reminded us that,
even at this distant quarter of the world, the power of our
native land was felt and respected. Soon after we beheld the
foreign factories, toward which we made our course; and,
amid the noisy clamors of boatmen and boatwomen, and
the closely-packed range of boats which blocked up the
shore, with difficulty, and after much delay and confusion,
we landed, and within a few minutes received the kind
Christian welcome of an excellent American missionary,
Dr. Parker, who offered us a temporary home. The ex-
pense and inconvenience of hiring a house and servants,
and the uncertainty of our stay, decided us in accepting
his kindly-proffered hospitality, and in a few hours our two
beds were placed at one end of our room, and tables ranged
for our teachers at the other end. The period of our arrival in Canton was one of unusual
popular excitement. The spirit of hostility toward for-
eigners, engendered by two centuries of unequal inter-
course, frequently fanned into arrogant fury by the calum-
niatory edicts of the rulers, and, alas! too frequently in-
flamed by the moral improprieties and insolent demeanor
of foreigners themselves, had been for a time overawed by
the events of the late war with the British. The with-
drawal of the British troops from the heights of Canton, and
their purchased immunity from the sanguinary horrors of a
bombardment, had been ascribed, by popular ignorance, to
fear and cowardice. Of this misapprehension the manda-
rins showed naturally no desire to disabuse the popular
mind, and to lower the majesty of Chinese power. While
natives of candor and education could not but feel the un-
doubted evidence of national humiliation, in their knowledge
of the events of the war in the more northern parts of China,
and the periodical payment of the ransom, however specious-
ly disguised under the professed object of " tranquilizing the 


POPULAR EXCITEMENT. 7 barbarians;" yet a strange infatuation seemed to possess the
minds of the Canton populace; and they ascribed it to the
corrupt venality and cowardice of the mandarins alone that
the whole British armament in the neighborhood had not been
destroyed. They even cherished the confident expectation
and eager determination, that, in the next war, the barba-
rians should not escape so easily. The injuries sustained
in the western portion of the suburbs from the British ship?
of war anchored in the river, and the large number of idle,
reckless vagabonds who now infested the neighborhood,
without any visible means of livelihood but roguery and
plunder, tended to perpetuate the vindictive hatred of the
mob. Every object which reminded them of their humilia-
tion, or awakened their jealousy, was the occasion of a new
ebullition of popular wrath. Of this kind was the contem-
plated rebuilding of the English factories, which had some
months before been maliciously destroyed by supposed in
cendiaries. The Americans, though apparently enjoying
more of favor in the eyes of the native authorities than the
violent and formidable British, were, nevertheless, equally
the objects of popular scorn—the more especially on ac-
count of a recent affray, in which an American had shot a
Chinese, by whom he was assaulted in a tumult. An ar-
row, which served as a weather-vane on the top of the flag-
staff of the American consulate, had been deemed, by vulgar
prejudice, to be the ill-omened cause of some recent local
calamities, and, as such, was the occasion of the assem-
blage of an infuriated mob in front of the factories, deter-
mined to destroy the hateful and pernicious emblem of
supposed destructiveness. At the private request of some
of the native authorities, the Americans had withdrawn this
subject of popular tumult. Still the flame of hostility
could not be extinguished, though temporarily allayed.
Numerous placards were posted on the public walls,
threatening the native contractors and workmen with
certain death if they did not immediately desist from


8
TRANQUILLITY RESTORED.
rebuilding the factories. On this account the works had
been discontinued, and an outbreak was daily expected. Ke-Ying, the pacific, liberal, and enlightened governor
of the two Kwang provinces, at this juncture had issued a
public edict against these disturbers of the peace, and the
movement was, for the present, checked. Various public
addresses, from time to time, were also sent forth, profess-
ing to be the exhortation of the "gentry and scholars" of a
particular locality, abounding with sundry arguments in-
culcating the duty of subordination and obedience to the
paternal rule of their superiors, and containing some par-
tial invectives against the malicious outrages of the barba-
rians. Such a season was not the most favorable for esti-
mating the pacific disposition of the natives toward those
who imported the commerce, the science, or the religion of
the West into the farthest extremities of the East. During our six weeks' residence at Canton there was
happily no interruption to the continuance of public tran-
quillity; and we had the happiness to find, that the indica-
tions of popular antipathy were generally confined to the
lowest classes and the dregs of the populace, in every com-
munity the more numerous, though the less influential por-
tion of society. It will afterward be seen how far the in-
conveniences and danger of such a state of the popular mind
were realized in our own experience and knowledge. The
first two or three days were spent in visiting the various
places of resort and objects of curiosity, calculated to im-
press the mind of a stranger with the manners, the charac-
ter, the genius, the arts, the degree of civilization, the
moral, social, and religious condition of the remarkable
people so long debarred, by an exclusive policy, from the
genial influences of Christendom. Our time, however, was precious; and we felt that it
was not in the capacity of scientific travelers, seeking to
enrich the stores of secular knowledge, or merely to enlarge
the bounds of our acquaintance with the national peculiari-


NATIVE TEACHERS. 9 ties of this heathen land, that we had been brought to these
dark regions of superstition and idolatry. Accordingly, within two or three days after our arrival,
our teacher, Choo, an aged native, and for thirty years
teacher successively to the late Rev. Dr. Morrison and his
lamented son, was engaged to come to our abode, and duly
installed in his office. He speaks with much affection of
both, especially of Mr. R. J. Morrison, who would have
provided him with the means of support during his declin-
ing years, had his life been spared. He came in great
poverty to our host, saying, that within two months after
Mr. Morrison's death he had been dismissed from the em-
ploy of government at Hong Kong, and had been in great
distress and penury. He had nine mouths in his family,
and begged the assistance of our friend. Though only
fifty-five years of age, he has a much older appearance,
from the debilitating, emaciating influence of opium-smok-
ing, to which he confesses he has, in past times, been ad-
dicted, but makes professions of reformation—an assertion
of which we had frequent reasons for doubting the truth.
We engaged his services, and found his matured experi-
ence a fair counterbalance to his visible decay of energy. The Budhist priest also waited upon us, with all the
formality of Chinese etiquet, from the temple on the oppo-
site side of the river, named Hae-Chwang-sze, but better
known as "the Honan joss-house." He discouraged the
project of our taking lodgings in the temple, assigning, as
his reason, the danger to which we should be exposed of
an outbreak of popular hatred, on the other side of the
river, at a distance from the European factories. He
thought that possibly we should be safe in coming to him
during the day; but that to pass the night in the temple
would be attended with imminent personal hazard to him-
self, as well as to us. He suggested the plan of our char-
tering a native vessel, and living on the river; in which case
he was willing to become our guest, and to remain with us


10
BUDHIST PRIEST.
altogether. This, for obvious reasons, we declined; and
the only alternative was, if practicable, to engage his serv-
ices as our teacher at our own abode. The chief difficulty
was his independent situation, which rendered him unwill-
ing, as he said, to engage his services as a hireling, or in
any other capacity than that of a friend. He had served
his course of three years as abbot; and, having fulfilled the
legal period, retired into privacy, according to the rules of
the institution, having attained the highest summit of ambi-
tion, as the superior of the richest and most famous temple
in Canton. According to the ancient regulations of the
order, he had an ample allowance from the temple-revenues
for his support, and was permited to travel into foreign
countries, probably as much with a view of avoiding feuds
between the abbots who successively pass the chair, as for
the purpose of enlarging their knowledge. A short time
since he was very anxious to visit America, and had con-
sulted one of the missionaries on the subject. He had
cherished the intention of visiting England, in company
with Mr. Morrison; but the unexpected death of the latter
had dissipated all such plans. He remained to dine with
us; and, arrayed in his long, black, flowing robes, with his
head completely shaven, he gave an imposing spectacle to
our party. He endeavored to show little acts of polite at-
tention, by asking our age, and placing on our plates some
fruit and sweetmeats, which we were obliged to eat, by
the rules of Chinese etiquet, as a mark of our appreciating
the attentions. By the rules of the monastic order, they
abstain from flesh and strong beverages. But the priest,
on this occasion, seemed to have no great scruples on these
points; and, as well as he could, being supplied with Chi-
nese chop-sticks, he endeavored to give due honor to the
provisions set before him. His whole demeanor was that
of a perfect gentleman, and exhibited a mixture of true
modesty and graceful dignity. Though in the latter stages
of our acquaintance we had reasons for suspecting him of


LUANG AFA.
11
avarice and pride, yet the visit of such a man to Europe
would be an important era in our intercourse with China,
and might be attended with important results to the native
disposition toward us.* Before his departure we had a visit from an individual,
well known by name in Europe and America as the first-
fruits of modern Protestant missionary efforts among the
Chinese, and the first native evangelist to his fellow-coun-
trymen, Leang Afa. He appeared about sixty years of
age, a man of sturdy dimensions, of cheerful manners, and
venerable aspect. He seemed greatly interested in our ar-
rival, and joined with much animation in the conversation.
The sight of such a trophy of the converting power of
God's grace excited emotions of joy in our minds, such as
can only be estimated by those placed in a similar situa-
tion. It refreshed the weary eye, as the fair green oasis in
the desert. We were a somewhat remarkable assemblage.
On the one hand was a native scholar, accounted wise and
honorable, and yet the slave of a debasing idolatry, igno-
rant of the true God, and of Jesus Christ the Savior of
mankind. On the other hand sat a Chinese, less deeply
versed, perhaps, in the vagaries of pagan learning, but
taught by the Spirit of God, and rescued from sin and death
by Divine Grace. Three of us were the privileged embas-
sadors of Christ to the heathen population of China. Here
we saw the contrast between nature and grace—the wis-
dom of this world and the wisdom of God. I was pleased
to observe that neither Leang Afa nor the priest showed
any marks of an uncourteous disposition. They exchanged
the usual signs of salutation, and conversed with each other
with apparent affability. The Christian meekness of the * The portrait of this remarkable man is in the Chinese Exhibition in
London, numbered 1032 in the catalogue. The proprietor of the institution
testified to the liberality and obliging efforts by which he was assisted by
the abbot in procuring for the collection various specimens of vertu from
the interior of the empire.


IS
CHINESE STUDIES. one, and the true native politeness of the other, prevented
the indication of any thing like illiberal antipathy. Of the
one it is sufficient to say, that neither his fears of persecu-
tion, nor his long expatriation from China to the Straits of
Malacca, nor the influence of surrounding heathenism, had
deterred him from boldly confessing the Savior. Of the
other, it is no slight commendation to assert, that he only
requires the sanctifying influence of the Gospel to raise
him immeasurably above the generality of his countrymen.
We esteemed ourselves fortunate, therefore, in finally se-
curing his attendance as our teacher of the court dialect
for a few hours daily. Our time was henceforth fully occupied by our Chinese
studies and the visits which we made from time to time to
those localities which were accessible to foreigners and cal-
culated to supply the mind with interest and information. 


CHAPTER II. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY OF CANTON. Early History and Civilization—Ancient commercial Celebrity—Early Mo-
hammedan Accounts—Extended Intercourse with Europeans in the Six-
teenth Century—Troubles on Tartar Conquest of China—Topography
of City—Division and mutual Checks of Government—Difficulty of For-
eigners entering the City Proper—Crowded Population—Narrow Streets
—Shops—River Population—Blind Beggars—Medical Missionary Hos-
pital j its moral Influence—The Patients—A poor Scholar—Surgical
Operations—The Parsees. The city of Canton is one of the oldest cities in this part
of the empire, and native historians vie with each other in
the effort to trace its annals to remotest antiquity, and to
call in the tales and wonders of mythology to their aid.
Without dwelling on the vaunting statements in the native
classics, and the events connected with the name of the
famous Yaou, who, 4000 years ago, commanded one of
his ministers to repair to the south and govern the " splen-
did capital" and its surrounding country, we come down
to the period of sober narrative, and behold Canton an im-
portant city of the south, possessing a fair measure of im-
provement, an industrious population, the advantages of
commerce, and a moderate portion of the blessings of civil-
ization at a time when our own country was excluded, by
the barbarous cruelty of our ancestors, from intercourse
with the civilized world, or was the prey to the marauding
expeditions of every plundering adventurer. So early as
two centuries and a quarter before the Christian era, the
people of the south for many years carried on a successful
rebellion against the Emperor Che Hwang of the Tsin dy-
nasty; and what is now the site of the city of Canton be-
came the scene of the sanguinary horrors of a protracted
siege. The imperial forces were routed; the siege was B


14
ANCIENT COMMERCIAL CELEBRITY. raised; and not till about 200 B.C. did the rebellious tribes
of these southern frontiers submit to the imperial sway in
the person of the founder of the Han dynasty. There are strong grounds for hazarding the opinion that
a considerable intercourse existed between the natives of
India and the people of Canton soon after the Christian
era. It is not till the time of the Tang dynasty, about
600 a.d., that Canton became a regular commercial empo-
rium, with fixed regulations and a tariff. Extortions at this
early period frequently drove the foreign merchants to seek
other marts for their commodities. Cochin China for a
time shared the profits that were diverted from Canton; and
a spirit of hostile rivalry, sometimes leading to open war,
was excited between the Cochin Chinese and the people
of Canton. In spite of these obstacles to its growing com-
merce and importance, this city made rapid strides in im-
provement and the enlargement of its foreign intercourse.
To such an extent had it increased, that in the account of
a Mohammedan traveler, generally considered genuine
and authentic, who visited Canton before the close of the
ninth century, we have the following statement in reference
to a recent rebellion and massacre of the inhabitants, who
persisted in their loyalty:—" At last he (the leader of the
rebels) became master of the city, and put all the inhab-
itants to the sword. There are persons fully acquainted
with the affairs of China who assure us that, besides the Chi-
nese who were massacred upon the occasion, there perish-
ed 120,000 Mohammedans, Jews, Christians, and Parsees,
who were there on account of traffic. The number of the
professors of these four religions who thus perished is ex-
actly known, because the Chinese are extremely nice in
the account they keep of them." At this early period it
is also related "that at Canfu (the ancient name of Can-
ton), which is the principal scale for merchants, there is a
Mohammedan appointed judge over those of his religion, by
the authority of the Emperor of China." One of the most


MANCH00 TARTAR SIEGE. 15 considerable objects which the traveler sees rising before
him, as he approaches the provincial city, is a lofty pagoda,
different in form and structure from every other building,
and which, on inquiry, he is told is the Mohammedan
mosque, built above a thousand years ago. After having its full share of tumults, wars, bloodshed,
and the other calamities of a semi-civilized state, we arrive
at that important epoch in the history of commerce, the
commencement of the sixteenth century, when, by the dis-
covery of the passage by the Cape of Good Hope, the
doors were thrown open to a more frequent and extended
intercourse with China from Europe. The Portuguese
led the way, and were quickly followed by English, Span-
ish, and Dutch adventurers. These times of peaceful in-
dustry and prosperous commerce were unhappily again
disturbed by the troubles consequent on the Manchoo Tar-
tar subjugation of the empire. The people of Canton,
faithful to the former Ming native dynasty, raised the stand-
ard of revolt, and, under the leadership of a native prince,
tried the issue of war. The Tartar armies soon reduced
the neighboring provinces to submission; and, after de-
fending itself against the assaults of the besiegers, Canton
at last fell, probably by the treachery of the prefect of the
city, who was permitted by the conquerors quietly to re-
tain his office. Some native accounts depict in awful col-
ors the carnage which ensued, and raise the number of the
slain to 700,000. The old city was reduced to ashes, from
the ruins of which the present city of Canton has gradually
risen; and has, under the Tartar sway, enjoyed a course
of uninterrupted tranquillity, during which it has risen to
be the first commercial emporium of the empire, to which,
till recently, all foreign commerce was restricted by the
Tartar jealousy of foreign influence. The roving bands
of lawless banditti, called into existence by the frequent
troubles during the change of dynasties, and what are call-
ed the fortunes of war, even now continue to be the scourge


16
TOPOGRAPHY OF THE CITY.
of the district, as they are also indications of the ineffective
character of the administration of police. Such is the brief, though imperfect, outline of the changes
to which Canton has been subject in the various vicissitudes
of its history. It partakes of the usual appearance of ori-
ental cities, and, once seen, furnishes a good specimen of
Chinese cities in general. The surrounding scenery pre-
sents nothing remarkably striking to the eye. The neigh-
boring country is one large plain of well-cultivated fields,
with a bold range of hills in the distance to the northeast.
The city itself, *. e., the part contained within the walls, is
of comparatively moderate extent, the whole circuit of walls
probably not exceeding six miles. A wall running from
east to west divides what is called the Old City, in which
the Tartar population and garrison reside, from the New
City, which is not more than a third of the size of the for-
mer, and lies on the south. At either extremity of this a
wall is carried down to the river, at one or two hundred
yards' distance. The suburbs are very extensive, and ex-
ceed in extent the city itself. The different departments of government are so arranged
as to keep up a mutual check upon each other. Thus, the
tsung-tuh, who is the viceroy or governor-general of the
two provinces of Kwangtung and Kwangse, has his fixed
residence in the New City. His nominal abode, is, how-
ever, situated some miles to the west of the city; and
though, on account of the facilities of Canton, he is allow-
ed to reside within the walls, he is not allowed to bring
thither the troops placed at his command. The foo-yuen,
the acting or lieutenant-governor of Kwangtung province,
who, though generally subordinate, is, in many points, in-
dependent of the tsung-tuh, and hence sometimes becomes
a rival, is stationed in the Old City, where a small force of
military is placed at his disposal; and thus a balance of
power is preserved. Again, to guard against the danger
of combination on the part of these governors, or of the


LOCAL GOVERNMENT JEALOUS RESTRICTIONS. 17
military force, intrusted to the foo-yuen for the purposes of
police, being employed in the attainment of political ag-
grandizement, the officer usually styled the Tartar-general,
the tseangkeun, is located, with a strong force of Tartar
troops, in the Old City, thus providing a check on ambitious
civil governors, as well as a defense of the city against for-
eign invasion. The same principle of mutual checks is re-
markably developed in all the other offices of state and
finance, adapted to the preservation of the reins of power
in the hands of the present foreign dynasty. It is proba-
bly to the consciousness of insecurity, and fear of the native
Chinese, that much of the jealous restrictive policy, which
has peculiarly characterized the Manchoo Tartar race, is
to be traced. They hear that the western barbarians are
powerful. Especially they are told that the English foreign-
ers have, from a small beginning, in the lapse of a single
century, demolished dynasties, overthrown kingdoms, and
gradually brought the whole of India under their yoke.
Hence this fear, joined to their distrust of the native Chi-
nese, leads them to persist in an exclusive policy, which
for so long a period has banished foreigners to a distance
from the capital, and to load them, in their edicts, with a
full measure of invective. Even at Canton, with all the
boasted advantages of the British treaty, Europeans can
not venture in safety within the city walls. Frequently
did we in vain seek to obtain the assistance of our native
teacher in exploring the city. Once we caught a glimpse
of the Chuhlan-mun, the nearest gate to the foreign facto-
ries. We met with no Europeans who, within the last two
years, had ventured to enter, with the exception of a naval
lieutenant, who was quickly compelled to seek safety by
flight, amid a shower of missiles, and with some bodily
bruises. Popular violence, so long encouraged against for-
eigners, either could not now be restrained by the native
authorities, or was the engine of terror, disingenuously em-
ployed by them, to prevent the ingress of Europeans, and


18
POPULATION NARROW STREETS.
the humiliation of the rulers. The mandarins made one
unvarying statement to the British and American consuls,
that foreigners were welcome to enter the city, but they
could not restrain the populace, or promise an immunity
from assault. It is to be hoped that increasing experience
of the urbanity, fair dealings, justice, and, above all, of the
improved morality of the foreign community will gradu-
ally undermine, and finally eradicate, this hostile feeling. The recently-arrived stranger naturally manifests sur-
prise and incredulity on being told that the estimated pop-
ulation of Canton exceeds a million. As soon, however,
as he visits the close streets, with their dense population
and busy wayfarers, huddled together into lanes from five
to nine feet wide, where Europeans could scarcely inhale
the breath of life, the greatness of the number no longer
appears incredible. After the first feelings of novelty have
passed away, disappointment, rather than admiration, oc-
cupies the mind. After leaving the open space before the
factories, or, as the Chinese call them, the thirteen hongs,
and passing through Old China-street, New China-street,
Curiosity-street, and similar localities, the names of which
indicate their propinquity to the residence of foreigners, we
behold an endless succession of narrow avenues, scarcely
deserving the name of streets. As the visitor pursues his
course, narrow lanes still continue to succeed each other,
and the conviction is gradually impressed on the mind that
such is the general character of the streets of the city.
Along these, busy traders, mechanics, barbers, venders,
and porters make their way; while occasionally the noisy,
abrupt tones of vociferating coolies remind the traveler that
some materials of bulky dimensions are on their transit, and
suggest the expediency of keeping at a distance, to avoid
collision. Now and then the monotony of the scene is re-
lieved by some portly mandarin, or merchant of the higher
class, borne in a sedan-chair, on the shoulders of two
or sometimes four men. Yet, with all this hurry and din,


SHOPKEEPERS.
19
there seldom occurs any accident or interruption of good
nature. On the river, the same order and regularity pre-
vail. Though there are probably not fewer than 200,000
denizens of the river, whose hereditary domains are the
watery element that supports their little dwelling, yet har-
mony and good feeling are conspicuous in the accommo-
dating manner with which they make way for each other
These aquatic tribes of the human species show a most
philosophic spirit of equanimity, and contrive, in this way,
to strip daily life of many of its little troubles, while the
fortitude and patience with which the occasional injury or
destruction of their boat is borne is remarkable. To return from the wide expanse of the river population
to the streets in the suburbs, the same spirit of contented
adaptation to external things is every where observable,
and it is difficult which to regard with most surprise—the
narrow abodes of the one, or the little boats which serve
as a family residence to the other. There is something of
romance in the effect of Chinese streets. On either side
are shops decked out with native ware, furniture, and man-
ufactures of various kinds. These are adorned by pillars
of sign-boards, rising perpendicularly, and inscribed from
top to bottom with the various kinds of saleable articles
which may be had within. Native artists seem to have
lavished their ingenuity on several of these inscriptions,
and, by their caligraphy, to give some idea of the superior-
ity of the commodities for sale. Many of the sign-boards
contain some fictitious emblem, adopted as the name of the
shop, similar to the practice prevalent in London two cen-
turies ago. On entering, the proprietor, with his assistants
or partners, welcomes a foreigner with sundry salutations;
sometimes advancing to shake hands, and endeavoring to
make the most of his scanty knowledge of English. They
will show their saleable articles with the utmost patience,
and evince nothing of disappointment, if, after gratifying his
curiosity, he departs without purchasing. At a distance


20
BLIND BEGGARS, ETC. from the factories, where the sight of a foreigner is a rarity,
crowds of idlers, from fifty to a hundred, rapidly gather
round the shop, and frequent embarrassment ensues, from
an incipient or imperfect knowledge of the colloquial me-
dium. In these parts the shopkeepers know nothing but
their own language, are more moderate in their politeness,
and, as a compensation, put a less price on their wares.
To write one's name in Chinese characters is a sure meth-
od of enhancing their good favor. Sometimes no fewer
than eight or ten blind beggars find their way into the shop,
and there they remain, singing a melancholy dirge-like
strain, and most perseveringly beating together two pieces
of wood, till the weary shopman at length takes compassion
on them, and provides for the quiet of his shop by giving a
copper cash to each, on receiving which they depart, and
repeat the same experiment elsewhere. The streets abound
with these blind beggars, who are seldom treated with in-
dignity. A kindly indulgence is extended to them, and
they enjoy a prescriptive right of levying a copper cash
from every shop or house they enter. It is said that this
furnishes a liberal means of livelihood to an immense num-
ber of blind persons, who, in many instances, are banded
together in companies or societies, subject to a code of
rules, on breach of which the transgressor is expelled the
community, and loses his guild. In every little open space there are crowds of traveling
doctors, haranguing the multitude on the wonderful powers
and healing virtues of the medicines which they expose for
sale. Close by, some cunning fortune-teller may be seen,
with crafty look, explaining to some awe-stricken simpleton
his future destiny in life, from a number of books arranged
before him, and consulted with due solemnity. In another
part, some tamed birds are exhibiting their clever feats, in
singling out, from among a hundred others, a piece of pa-
per inclosing a coin, and then receiving a grain of millet as
a reward of their cleverness. At a little distance are some 


MISSIONARY HOSPITAL.
21
fruit-stalls, at which young and old are making purchases,
throwing lots for the quantity they are to receive. Near
these again are noisy gangs of people, pursuing a less
equivocal course of gambling, and evincing, by their ex-
cited looks and clamors, the intensity of their interest in
the issue. In another part may be seen disposed the ap-
paratus of some Chinese tonsor, who is performing his
skillful vocation on the crown of some fellow-countryman,
unable to command the attendance of the artist at a house
of his own. We leave the motley assemblages which meet the eye
on all sides, to take a view of incidents more agreeable
and cheering in a moral and religious point of view.
Emerging from the factories into Hog-lane—a district
abounding with refuse of all kinds, moral and material,
and of which the inauspicious name is but a faint emblem
—we proceed about half its length, till, on our left, we ob-
serve a door, not remarkably different from the rest, but
having a few sedan-chairs standing by, to indicate that
some more opulent visitors are within. This is the Oph-
thalmic Hospital, in connection with the Medical Missionary
Society, organized in 1838, at Canton, and having similar
institutions at Hong Kong, Amoy, Ningpo, and Shanghai.
The object of this society was, to supply, gratuitously,
medical assistants and drugs to those medical missionaries
who have been sent, by the Protestant societies in England
or America, to attempt the evangelization of the Chinese,
in connection with the benevolent effort to impart to the
diseased sufferer the medical skill of Christendom. There
is, professedly, no interference with the missionaries them-
selves; but a periodical report is expected of the state and
progress of the Missionary Hospital. Subsequent events
have led to a partial disorganization of the society itself. On entering the hospital, numbers of Chinese, generally
of the humblest ranks, are seen in the lower room, with im-
patience and anxiety depicted on the countenance. Dis-


22 MEDICAL PATIENTS. eases of every kind, but principally those of the eye, are
brought hither, in the hope of obtaining relief from the hu-
mane skill of the Christian physician. On ascending into
the upper range of rooms, from sixty to a hundred patients
may generally be seen, on the weekly receiving-day, sitting
and waiting their turn to consult the missionary, with his
native assistants, at a table at the upper end of the room.
Rude paintings of the various cases of tumors of large di-
mensions, removed by the hand of the operator, are hung
round the room, to commemorate the benefits of the insti-
tution, and to encourage the confidence of the Chinese in
the skill of the foreigner. Many emaciated sufferers, and
many anxious mothers, pressing to their bosoms little pitia-
ble infants, are here to be seen, watching most intently the
words of the physician on their case, and eagerly extracting
a ray of comfort from his looks. It is in such a school as
this that contentment and gratitude to the Almighty are
most forcibly taught and impressed upon those who are
exempt from the slowly-consuming pangs of sickness and
disease. It is in such scenes that the heart of the Christian
grows soft, and brings forth the genial emotions of sympa-
thy and kindness toward our fellow-heirs of corruption and
death. It is here, also, that the proud arrogance of native
prejudice is subdued, under the power and beauty of the
disinterested benevolence which springs from a heaven-
born faith. To use the words of a native Christian, Leang
Afa, " When I speak to my countrymen in the villages and
suburbs about Jesus Christ, and his glorious Gospel, they
are careless, and utter expressions of scorn; but in the hos-
pital their hearts are soft, and they will listen to the Gospel
with serious attention." The advantages to the missionary
work of such an institution are obvious to all. Our re-
spected friend who presides over it has had the privilege
of exhibiting to nearly 20,000 patients the benevolence of
the Christian religion. Among these have been one or two
officers high in the state; and it is to be hoped that the 


A POOR SCHOLAR. 23 noble-minded Ke-Ying will never forget that he has re-
ceived, at the hands of a Christian, the remedies which re-
moved his bodily sufferings. On the first day of our visit we saw among the rest a
literary student, a sew-tsai, or graduate of the lowest de-
gree. Though his external appearance and dress plainly
told the humble condition of life to which he belonged, yet
he was now on a visit to Canton for a recent literary exam-
ination for the next step on the road to preferment, the
keu-jin degree, for which he had been an unsuccessful can-
didate. It is a common practice for a poor family to single
out some hopeful scion of the house, of promising talents
and ability, who is supported by the contributions of his
relatives; and thus, relieved from the necessity of bodily
labor for subsistence, he is enabled to devote the undivided
powers of his mind to that summit of ambition, literary dis-
tinction, and the consequent enriching of his family on his
promotion. He had lost the sight of one eye, and there
was incipient amaurosis in the other, the effect of protract-
ed study. He was about to return to his relatives, and
presented the physician with a fan which he had written
over with Chinese characters, intended as a complimentary
poem, and composed by himself for the occasion. As at this time our teachers could not speak any English,
we were compelled to learn the Chinese colloquial lan-
guage; and though at first it was very embarrassing, yet,
by means of a vocabulary and Morrison's dictionary, with
the previous advantage of diligent study on the voyage
from England, we soon gathered all the common phrases
necessary in our intercourse with them. The hospital also
afforded some desirable facilities, as patients from all the
provinces occasionally avail themselves of its benefits; and
among them we frequently met tea-merchants and others,
from the north of China, able to converse in the court dia-
lect, and very ready to help to improve our scanty knowl-
edge of it. At various times we witnessed surgical opera-


24 MORAL INFLUENCE OF MISSIONARY HOSPITAL. tions, under which the Chinese evinced great fortitude. On
one occasion we saw about ten cases of couching for cata-
ract, two of which were performed with great ease and
skill by the senior native assistant, named Ato. We were
present also at the removal of several tumors from men and
women. One poor Chinese submitted with great patience
to a most painful and hazardous operation, by which a
large tumor, weighing eight and a-half pounds, was re-
moved from the side of his neck, extending upward to the
ear. So impassible is the Chinese temperament, that im-
mediately after being laid on his bed he called for some
rice-gruel, and in three weeks after paid us a visit at our
room. One neat young lady, most cruelly bandaged and
tortured in her feet, with tottering pace advanced toward
the physician, and submitted with great patience to a tedious
operation, by which a large excrescence was removed from
either ear, which presented an unsightly appearance. The
father stood by, and informed us that it was preparatory
to her marriage. Nothing could exceed the refined deli-
cacy of feeling and demeanor with which she appeared
before so many strangers. Her dress was very beautiful,
and contained a quantity of gold lace adorning the borders.
It was at times an affecting spectacle to behold blind per-
sons of all ages, one by one, approach the physician, and
receive from his lips the discouraging announcement that
vision was forever gone, and its recovery altogether hope-
less. Still more affecting was the consideration that these
poor inheritors of the woes of humanity had no knowledge
of that Divine Savior, who has repaired the ruins of the
fall of Adam, and restored the long-forfeited blessings of
God's favor to the sons and daughters of affliction. Great
was their gratitude to the human instrument through whose
efforts their sufferings were relieved. More than once have
we seen the Christian physicianin vain attempting to restrain
the prostration of the head to the ground, as a token of their
gratitude, and to direct their misplaced adoration to the


THE PARSKES.
25
true Author of good, exhorting them to thank God. Yet
such is the jealousy, real or supposed, with which this insti-
tution is viewed by the native authorities, that the utmost
caution is observed in communicating religious instruction;
and, with the exception of the occasional distribution of a
Christian tract or a portion of the New Testament, no ag-
gressive effort was at this time made for the conversion of
the patients. In the districts bordering on the north of the city, as well
as in the city itself, there are a few Chinese Roman Catho-
lics. Some of them had been temporary inmates of the
institution. There are also a few Mohammedans in Can-
ton. Near the hospital was pointed out to us a respectable-
looking Chinese, a Mohammedan of great enterprise and
zeal, who had journeyed through Thibet to India, and
thence had proceeded on a pilgrimage to Mecca. The
Parsees, also, are rather numerous, and form an important
portion of the inhabitants of the foreign factories, being
generally natives of Bombay. They may be seen walking
in companies of from four to ten, every evening, in long,
flowing, white dresses, occasionally relieved by the gay
colour of pink or scarlet trowsers. They are an enterpris-
ing body of merchants, and, by their success in commerce,
have gained in the East the same repute which the Jews
so long obtained in the West. They generally speak En-
glish, as well as their primitive Guzeratee tongue. Their
system of religious belief, stripped of some of its flagrant
absurdities, appears to resolve itself into a Deism, almost
verging to Atheism. They deny that they pay any idola-
trous acts of worship to the sun, or to the element of fire.
They profess to believe in the existence of one great, Su-
preme Being; but as all their notions of him are necessa-
rily vague, confused, and imperfect, they say that they need
some visible object of adoration, and that they therefore
transfer their worship to fire, as the most glorious of his
creatures, and the most apt to be his representative. Amid
C


2G
a heathen's first objection.
all their Atheistic notions, they have much of self-righteous-
ness. When they have a vessel on the point of going to
sea, they give away money to the poor, and frequently
annoy their neighbors by the crowds of Chinese vagrants
attracted to the house by throwing money to be scrambled
for among them. Yet they are noted for their sensual
lives; and their personal appearance and the clamorous
nature of their festivities serve to confirm this reputation
On one occasion we formed the acquaintance of a Parsee
at the hospital, with whom we had some conversations on
religious subjects. He told us that he had frequently dis-
cussed such topics with a missionary at Bombay, whose
name he mentioned with respect. He would sometimes
speak in terms of proud enthusiasm of the ancient glory of
his race, the sublime sanctity of the Zendavista, and the
power of Zoroaster in reclaiming his'race from a savage
state to civilization. He would also speak of their expul-
sion from Persia by Mohammedan persecution, their mi-
gration to Guzerat, and the consequent change of their
language and dress. Pointing to the various subjects of
disease in the room, and singling out especially an emacia-
ted form of infant suffering, we once asked him how, on
any other hypothesis than that of the entrance of sin into
the world and the fall of man, he could regard misery at so
early an age as compatible with the infinite benevolence
of the Creator. He seemed to feel the force of the argu-
ment; but endeavored to evade it by suddenly asking us
how it was there were so many sects of Christians, and
they were not all one. In reply, we attempted to demon-
strate to him the unity of faith, of love, of practice, which
distinguishes all spiritual followers of Jesus Christ, which
can subsist independently of any diversity in the ceremoni-
als of religion, or in the mere externals of Christianity. As
an instance of the real unity of Christians, we drew his at-
tention to the fact that our respected host, Dr. Parker, had
welcomed us with all the kindness and affection of Christian 


ADVANTAGE OF CHRISTIAN UNITY. 27 hospitality, though we were previously strangers to each
other, and belonged to different Christian communions.
We related to him the origin and progress of the British
and Foreign Bible Society, as a specimen of the manner in
which Christians were willing to sink their minor differ-
ences in the grand, comprehensive effort to diffuse the
Word of God as the common rule of faith and practice,
and the sole depository of God's revealed will to mankind.
We afterward sent him a letter, accompanying the gift of a
Bible, which we presented to him in the name of that soci-
ety, not only as a token of our individual interest in his
eternal welfare, but also as a memorial of the unity of
British Christians. 


)
0
CHAPTER III.
FURTHER ACCOUNT OF CANTON. Visit to Honan Monastery — Numerous Temples, Monks, and Nuns in
Canton—Universal Idolatry—Visit of some petty Mandarins, and Priest's
Alarm—Religious Services—Interview with a High Chinese military
Officer—Pending Examinations for Keu-jin Literary Degree—General
Excitement and Thirst for literary Distinction—Retarding Influence on
national Improvement — Notification of successful Candidates — Public
Honors—Visit of Tang-shin, a literary Chinese. On October 7th we paid our first visit, with a party
of friends, to the celebrated Honan monastery, of which
one of our teachers, the priest to whom allusion has already
been made, had formerly been abbot. We crossed the
river a little to the east of the factories, and landed close to
the Budhist temple. On entering, we passed at once into
a long court-yard, at the farther end of which is placed the
emblematical tortoise, carved on a large stone. Passing
through another gateway, we beheld two colossal figures,
said to be images of deified heroes, guarding the entrance
to the temple. Advancing through another court, we en-
tered a kind of vestibule, where four gigantic idols, two on
either side, of fierce and fantastic aspect, remind the stran-
ger that he has entered "the palace of the four celestial
kings." Three of them strongly resembled JEsculapius,
Apollo, and Mars, of Greek and Roman mythology. A
broad path conducted us thence to the principal temple,
where, in a large hall, we beheld the priests celebrating
their evening worship before the three Budhas. These
images, together with numerous other idols and altars, gave
an imposing effect to the scene. A large number of monks
were standing with joined and uplifted palms, engaged in
repeating the mystical and unintelligible sounds addressed


SACRED PIGS. 29
to Budh, while one of the number acted as a leader or
precentor in this mummery, and, with outstretched neck
and breathless haste, poured forth a torrent of loud, sono-
rous jargon, which was accompanied, from time to time, by
the beating of a drum and tinkling of a bell, another priest
burning some gilt paper and incense. The whole produced
a confused din and uproar, which might have consisted
with a pandemonium. From this we were hurried to the
apartments of our friend the abbot, as we continue to
designate him by courtesy. He received us with much
politeness, and tea was immediately served for us; before
drinking which, he pledged each guest separately with his
cup brought into contact with theirs. He afterward sent
a priest to conduct us through the different parts of the
establishment, which covers a space of seven or eight acres,
and has some crops of rice, and a little grove of ornamental
trees. A number of apartments on either side of the prin-
cipal square form the cells of the priests, and various kinds
of offices. We were conducted to the stall or pen, in
which the sacred pigs are domiciled. According to the
popular theory, these pigs are maintained in a state of
plenty, and are invested with a degree of sanctity, as a
compensation to the species for the wrongs inflicted on
them by the disciples of Budhism, in eating swine's flesh,
contrary to the primitive laws of Budh. Hence, to these
favored pigs every possible honor is paid, as reparation for
the evils which wicked custom has perpetuated. To us
they appeared to possess only one attribute of sanctity in
the estimate of the Chinese, that of excessive size and fat-
ness, which rendered them, for a long time, regardless of
the blows by which we endeavored to provoke them into a
standing posture. Thence we were conducted to the place
where, in a kind of oven, the bodies of the deceased priests
are consumed by fire. Near to this was the mausoleum, in
which the ashes of their burned bodies are deposited on a
certain day in each year. Adjoining to it was a little
c*


30
TRADITIONARY ORIGIN.
cell, in which the urns containing the ashes are tempo-
rarily placed till the periodical season for opening the mau-
soleum. The temple is a very old establishment, but did not at-
tain its celebrity till about a century and a half ago, when,
by the favor of one of the Manchoo Tartar princes, it was
richly endowed. The following tradition of the circum-
stances is preserved. In the reign of Kang-he certain dis-
tricts in the province of Canton remained faithful in their
allegiance to the old native dynasty, and were in a state
of rebellion. A son-in-law of the emperor was sent with a
strong force, and subdued the country. The villages of
Honan, which form the southern suburbs of the city
of Canton, suffered under the sanguinary vengeance of the
conqueror. Orders were issued for a general massacre
of the people. Just before the command was executed,
the prince saw a fat priest belonging to this temple; and
inveighing against the supposed hypocrisy of a priest, pro-
fessing abstinence from flesh and wine, arriving at such a
size, he ordered him to be put to death. The tradition
goes on to relate a dream which happened to the prince,
which induced him to reverse the sentence, and to load the
holy priests with gifts, and the temple to which he be-
longed with an ample share of princely favor and wealth.
Estates and money were given to increase the endowment,
which was intended to support three hundred priests.
From the difficulty of sustaining the number, there are now
only about one hundred and sixty. Many of these are
fugitives, outlaws, and bandits, who had been driven by
want or fear to seek a shelter and asylum within its walls.
They are generally a low set of men, and only a few of
them are versed in the native literature. The abbot is
elected by vote for a term of three years. On several subsequent occasions we visited this Budhist
temple, and were always courteously received by the ab-
bot, who once invited a young priest of very pleasing man-


UNIVERSAL IDOLATRY.
31
ners, from another temple, to meet us. Generally, on
entering we were surrounded by the lower class of priests,
who, by significant gestures, intimated their desire that we
would give them tobacco. We made known to them that
we had no such gift for them, but offered them some copies
of the Epistle of the Ephesians, and a tract entitled "The
Way of Eternal Blessedness," which were eagerly sought
and received. On returning, afterward, we saw several
priests, sitting in retired spots, reading them, and in our
subsequent visits we had numerous applicants. The abbot
himself once asked permission to take from our room a
copy of Dr. Milne's sermons; and, on my next visit to his
apartments, gave me a neat little book, in boards of fra-
grant wood, containing the prayers offered in the temple-
worship to Budh. These proved to be a mere collection
of unmeaning sounds, written in Chinese characters, but
taken from the old Palee tongue, the primitive Indian lan-
guage of Budhism. There are more than a hundred temples in Canton con-
secrated to the various systems of religious falsehood which
maintain an ascendency over the popular mind. Of these,
a few belong to the Taou sect, whose priests may some times
be seen walking in the streets, and are easily distinguished
by the peculiar mode in which their head is shaven, a portion
of the hair being left so as to be formed into a tuft on the crown.
A larger number are denominated "temples of ancestors."
By far the most considerable portion, however, are devoted
to Budhist worship. There exist also numerous public al-
tars to the deities, who are supposed to preside over the
locality, or to exercise a dominion over the different ele-
ments, together with countless altars raised to the household
gods. Religious processions and festivals also form a por-
tion of the long catalogue of superstitious practices, which
tend to prove that here, as in every other part of the
world, man can not subsist without the semblance of
religious worship, and that if he possess not the true reli-


32
LOW CHARACTER OF PRIESTS.
gion, he invariably seeks its substitute in the counterfeit in-
ventions of falsehood. The whole number of priests is estimated at 2000, who
live a monastic life, and are bound to a life of celibacy as
long as they remain inmates of the temple. Though it is
considered discreditable for the priests to abandon the sa-
cred office, and to revert to a secular calling, yet in most
cases they adhere to the monastic life only because they
have no other means of livelihood. They lead an idle, saun-
tering life, and may be seen standing about the entrance of
the temple precincts, distinguished more by their bare shaven
crowns than by their manners or demeanor, from the sur-
rounding crowds of idlers. About 1000 nuns are also sup-
ported by the various institutions: they adopt the same
dress as the monks, having their head completely shaven,
and wearing a long, black, flowing robe. Though Confu-
cianism is the only religious system professed by the state,
the sage, and the scholar, yet every system of superstition
exerts its divided influence over the ignorant masses; and,
by an unhappy inconsistency, idolatry, though decried by
the learned, is yet followed and practiced by all. October 10th.—We had an opportunity of witnessing an
instance of the spirit which still prevails in Canton in refer-
ence to foreign intercourse. A mandarin called on our
host, while we were at dinner, on business, and we were
introduced to him. He approached us with great polite-
ness, and shook hands. He wore an opaque white button
on the top of his official cap, and had a peacock's feather
hanging down over his back. He held the office of deputy
district magistrate, and appeared to be about fifty years of
age. We were entertained during the greater part of the
meal with the high, shrill tones of the Peking dialect, as he
conversed with much apparent earnestness with our host
in the adjoining verandah. Soon after, as we were sitting in our room, engaged
with our teachers, Choo and the Honan priest, the latter 


ODIUM OF CONNECTION WITH FOREIGNERS. 33
was suddenly thrown into great consternation by the an-
nounced, and subsequent actual arrival of three mandarins
in the adjoining room. All our efforts to calm his mind
proved ineffectual: he trembled like a leaf, and cast most
imploring looks to us not to expose him. At his request,
we removed our books and writing materials into the bed-
room, which communicated with the verandah adjoining
the room in which the officials were engaged in a discus-
sion with our friend, who had been acting as interpreter in
the recent American negotiations. The priest entreated
us to speak in a whisper; and the least sound seemed to
penetrate his very soul. As for old Choo, he did not seem
to participate in this feeling to any great extent, having
been inured by thirty years' intercourse with foreigners, to
hazards of this kind. He made the priest angry with him
by speaking in a soft, but audible tone; and afterward,
prompted by curiosity, ventured in silence to steal a glance
into the other room; while the other Chinese, placed on a
higher pinnacle of rank, and therefore more exposed to the
shafts of official displeasure, was tortured by fear. At last
the officers took their departure, and released the priest
from a load of care. It is difficult, under the new system
of intercourse provided for by the British treaty, to account
for these fears of respectable Chinese, except on the sup-
position that the native government is known to have
made reluctant concessions to foreigners, and to regard
with peculiar animosity those natives who associate with
them. On Oct. 13th I preached to about forty Europeans and
Americans, in Dr. Parker's dining-room, my fellow-laborer,
Mr. M'Clatchie, conducting the prayers in accordance with
the liturgy of the Church of England. This service we gen-
erally continued every Sabbath during our stay in Canton.
In the afternoon, our host and hostess joined with Leang Afa
and ourselves in partaking of the Lord's Supper, for the first
time after our arrival in China. An unusual solemnity per-


34
RELIGIOUS SERVICES.
vaded the occasion, and we felt the privilege of Christian
communion with each other at this distance from the
churches of our respective father-lands. We assembled,
few in number—fewer than the original Apostles, and, like
them, in an upper room, with a world lying around us in
unbelief. There we penitentially confessed our sinfulness,
and implored strength for our work. There we anew com-
memorated that Savior's death on whom we built our
hopes of acceptance, and in obedience to whose command,
Go and teach all nations, we had come hither. And even
here we were not without encouragement, in the fact of our
approaching the Lord's table, in company with one who,
himself the first-fruits of modern missionary efforts in China,
was now an evangelist to his own countrymen. We sang
some hymns appropriate to our situation; and the service
was concluded by Leang Afa praying, in Chinese, for the
spread of the Gospel and the conversion of his country.
The earnestness of his tone plainly told us the fervency of
his supplications. We were afterward informed that his
intercessions on the occasion were indeed most ardent on
behalf of the idolatrous empire of China. He is supported
by the London Missionary Society, and has daily prayers
and reading of the Scripture at his house, about a mile dis-
tant on the opposite side of the river, at which some of his
countrymen attend from time to time, and converse with
him about Christianity. He has a wife, a son, and a daugh-
ter, Christians; and about a year ago his aged mother was
baptized. Oct. 15th.—This evening we went, by invitation, to a
neighboring hong, to meet a mandarin of the highest class
but one, holding military rank, and enjoying the privileges
of a naturalized or adopted Tartar, t. e., a descendant of
those native Chinese who had assisted the Manchoo Tar-
tars in gaining the throne, and had for these services been
admitted to an equality of rank with the conquerors. He
had distinguished himself in war, and, as a reward of his


MILITARY OFFICER.
35
services, was decked with the honorary badge of a pea-
cock's feather with three eyes, the largest legal number.
We were soon on familiar terms; and though, from the
nature of the conversation, which was interpreted to us,
we did not conceive his stock of ideas to be very large, we
contrived to spend a tolerably interesting evening in his
company. He was very obliging in his endeavors to en-
courage our incipient efforts in the mandarin dialect, and
when we were tolerably successful patted us on the shoul-
der. He was very particular in showing each article of
ornament and use which he had with him, among which
was a crystal snuff-bottle, which I filled with some snuff
that had been for some years lying in my writing-desk.
He received the present, and seemed to value it, as,
two or three days after, I received an express messenger
from his residence in the city, thanking me, and inquiring
whether any such could be purchased at Hong Kong or
Macao. He had two attendants, who stood behind, but
were at no pains to conceal their participation in any sub-
ject of amusement that occurred, frequently offering their
remarks. When any person who happened to be rather
tall in stature entered the room in which we were, the first
thing our visitor did, after shaking hands, was to propose
their standing back to back, in order to compare their re-
spective height, as he is taller than the generality of Chi-
nese. Though he professes an eternal friendship for one
or two of our friends among the foreign residents, and oc-
casionally pays them an evening visit, he is always alarmed
at any proposal to visit him at his own house, and meets it
with an open indication of unwillingness, probably fearing
the odium he should incur. His manners were very polite,
and he has the reputation of being a liberal-minded man. Oct. 17th.—We learned, from our old teacher, Choo,
that the seventy-two (the legal number) successful aspirants
to the degree of keu-jin dine together on this day with the
public functionaries, to commemorate with rejoicing their


S6
THIRST FOR DISTINCTION.
promotion. His brother-in-law was one of the happy
number; and we had, a few days after, to dispense with
Choo's services, to enable him to go home, on the plea of
joining in the family festivities consequent on the distinc-
tion of one of its members. There were eight thousand
candidates in all. Before they are qualified to compete at
this triennial examination for literary honors, held only in the
capital of the province, they must be sew-tsai, i. e.; graduates
of the lowest degree, conferred in the capital city of each
department. For several weeks the examination furnishes a
subject of all-absorbing interest to the people. Hopes and
fears, joy and solicitude fill the minds of the relatives of the
various candidates, as they dwell in imagination on the
prospective distinction of their families, and build a vision-
ary fabric of expected honors, wealth, and power on the
contingencies of the future. Each candidate enters the
building appropriated to the purposes of examination,
which is carefully guarded by soldiers, to prevent commu-
nication from without. Here he is located in a cell, which
is also narrowly watched to prevent any illicit help being
conveyed to him. There, on three different days, he writes
a theme, or composes a short poem, on some given subject
from the ancient classics, and transmits it to the judge
under an assumed name or motto, to insure impartiality
and fairness in the decision. All subjects which can bear
the remotest allusion to the policy of the rulers, or to the
present dynasty, are strictly excluded. The test of supe-
riority consists in the style and sentiment according with
that of the ancient authors and sages. Consequently, Chi-
nese literati pursue for ages the same beaten track of Con-
fucian philosophy; and whereas originality forms a principal
quality in the estimate of literary excellence in western
regions, in China, on the contrary, the inventive faculty is
checked, and innovation is stifled in the birth. Thus the
sages of the celestial empire waste their energies in perse-
vering efforts to remain stationary in knowledge. Not the 


38 ORIGIN OF CRIPPLING LADIES' FEET.
al's success, after the literary ordeal, is learned by him
from reading his feigned name, or motto, posted against the
walls of the public office of the foo-yuen, or lieutenant-gov-
ernor. At a certain hour this public functionary comes
forth from his palace, and, after the customary discharge
of guns, the official paper is pasted up. He then bows to
the names of the successful candidates and retires. A
public banquet, honored by the presence of the foo-yuen
and the highest authorities of the province, is given to the
newly-made keu-jin; and, while the thousands of disap-
pointed scholars returned to their homes, the successful few
are loaded with applause and honor, and their names are
sent up, with their compositions, to the emperor at Peking. Oct. 19th.—We had this evening the company, at tea,
of a well-known individual, Tang Shin, a Hong merchant.
The exclusive monopoly and privileges of the old Hong
merchants have, by the late treaties, become obsolete. Yet
their reputation and experience give them great advantage
in commerce, and Tang Shin is a rich, as well as a learned
man. He is the author of more than one work on moral
subjects, a copy of which he promised to give us. He
remained for several hours; and the conversation, which
was sometimes in the court dialect, and at other times in
imperfect English, was interpreted by our host. On his
being asked the origin of the Chinese custom of crippling
ladies' feet, his opinion was confirmatory of the current
statement, that Ta-ke, a wicked empress in the third centu-
ry before the Christian era, during the Tsin dynasty, influ-
enced her husband to issue an edict, obliging all the Chinese
ladies to make the empress's club-feet the standard of
beauty. Some small-footed women once replied in our
hearing to the same question, to the effect that ladies who
had no menial work to perform did not require the use of
their feet! Tang Shin possesses enlightened views and
information on subjects of foreign policy. He expressed
the great desirableness of an imperial commissioner being


POLYGAMY.
39
sent to other nations, as peace would then be better main-
tained, and "the inner people would not remain in igno-
rance of the affairs of outward nations." Speaking of the
opium traffic, he said that it was worse than the African
slave trade; that slaves might be fed, and clad, and thrive
in the enjoyment of health; that, moreover, they might,
and, he emphatically added, they should, be restored to
their father-land. "But," he continued, the victims of opium
grow sick in body, diseased in mind, depraved in heart,
and become physically, mentally, and morally ruined."
Our hostess pressed him to permit his wife to visit her. He
laughed, but cautiously avoided committing himself by any
such promise. He afterward said that the Chinese law
did not allow women to visit abroad. One of the party
replied that he had never been able to discover such a law
in the Chinese code. Tang Shin then said that he hoped
at some time their custom might be rendered like that of
foreigners, but at present it could not be so. On the subject
of bigamy he appeared to be very sensitive, and anxious to
repel the insinuation of the family discords which it produ-
ced. He said that his first wife (who was now dead) was
above his four other more recently married wives in rank,
and that the latter were not permitted to eat in the presence
of the former, but were rather considered as servants.
"And," continued he, "they are all happy and quiet, and
live together like sisters." He has fifteen children, and as
they do not like the idea of calling a stranger mother, he is
unwilling again to marry a wife who would succeed to the
rank of mistress of the household, his concubines not re-
ceiving any elevation by the death of his wife. In reference to the recent literary examinations, he said
that every officer in the empire, civil and military, must
professedly be a sew-tsai, or graduate of the lowest degree,
at least; but that such was the corruption of the times,
that now, instead of talent finding its proper level, and a
sure reward in promotion, various means could with impu-


40 CONSERVATIVE AND LIBERAL PARTIES IN CHINA. nity be resorted to by ambitious persons, for bribing the
examiners, or acquiring the necessary degree by money or
influence. Thousands even of keu-jin throughout the em-
pire were waiting for promotion, the favor of the governor
of the province frequently elevating juniors, to the exclusion
of older and more deserving men. No person of lower
degree than keu-jin could be appointed to the office of
district magistrate. But perseverance in the prosecution
of literary honors was greatly checked by the abuses which
had been growing up and acquiring strength during the
last few years. In the course of his conversation, the fact
became continually more apparent that, for some time past,
the literati and government officers have been divided into
two grand national factions; the one, rigidly attached to
an exclusive conservatism of national isolation and customs,
the other, inclined to more liberal views, and more especi-
ally advocating the legalized importation of opium at a
high duty. The former party number the famous Commis-
sioner Lin among their chief partisans. Among the more
prominent leaders of the liberal party are Ke-Shen, who
was degraded for the negotiations with Captain Elliott;
and Ke-Ying, the present imperial commissioner, who has
borne so conspicuous a part in the recent negotiations with
the British, the Americans, and the French. Whatever may be the ignorance, real or affected, of the
Chinese generally, respecting the superiority of foreigners
in arts, in civilization, and in power, Tang Shin evidently
labored under no misapprehension on the subject. He ex-
amined, with much apparent interest, and many expressions
of admiration, some apparatus exhibited to him, showing
the European method of burning gas light. He seemed to
experience most difficulty in comprehending the nature of
a gaseous fluid. Before taking his departure, he received a copy of the
Epistle to the Ephesians, from the improved version, and
also a Christian tract of about a dozen pages. He surveyed 


A CHINESE PATRIOT. 41 them both attentively for a few minutes, when he remarked
that the former was difficult to his comprehension, and that
the latter was more adapted in style and subject to the
Chinese mind. Tang Shin is doubtless a great distance in advance of his
country men. On a recent occasionhe was made an honor-
ary member of some literary society in America. In the
letter of thanks to the officers of the institution for the hon-
or conferred on him, he incidentally alluded to the evils of
opium, calling on good men of all nations to combine iu
putting down the inhuman traffic. In the same letter he
exhorted the Americans to abolish slavery in their domin-
:ons.


CHAPTER IV. EXCURSIONS INTO THE SUBURBS OF CANTON. The Beggars' Square—Excursion into rural Hamlets of Honan—Visit from
Leang Afa's Son A-tuh—Excursion with a native Preacher on the Banks
of the River—A native Book composed and distributed to discourage
female Infanticide—Chinese Illuminations and street Theatricals. On October 20th I walked with two friends about a mile
and a half in a northwesternly direction from the factories,
into a part of the suburbs called the Beggars' Square. It
consists of an open space, of about a hundred yards on
each side, and has a continued range of temples on one
side, extending into the adjacent streets. In these streets
there is a greater number of dwellings indicating internal
comfort and respectability than in most other parts. There
is, also, a more than ordinary proportion of apothecaries'
shops, the outer walls of which are covered with an im-
mense number of old rags, which might at first be mistaken
for a quantity of dead, decayed ivy-leaves; but which, on
inquiry, were found to be the various plasters which had
been successfully employed on the apothecary's patients,
and were nailed up as a visible trophy of his transcendent
skill in the healing art. On entering the temples, some of
them presented unequivocal marks of dilapidation and ruin.
A crowd of people followed us into the court as far as the
entrance of the inner part of the temple, where the sacred
images and the priests on duty were stationed. The priest
showed us the various articles within, and explained the
mode of consulting Budh, by drawing lots, on the subject
of making a bargain, or marrying a wife. On emerging
from these gloomy recesses of fraud and superstition, we
proceeded into the center of the square, where numbers
of idle vagabonds were pursuing their various methods of


beggars' square.
43
amusement or vice. A number of emaciated, pale forms
were also to be seen, partly covered with mats. Some
were gasping for breath, and were scarcely able to move.
Others were motionless, and seemed to be destitute of life.
Numbers of poor mendicants, on the approach of sickness
and disease, are brought hither by their relatives, and left
to perish in neglected and unpitied destitution. One poor
youth, with a look that pierced my inmost soul, had just
sufficient strength to stretch forth his hand for that tempo-
ral relief which was, alas! now unavailing. I counted four
or five, close by, to all appearance dead. Desirous of
assuring myself of the fact, I stooped, and, removing the
scanty matting which partially obscured their pallid fea-
tures, gazed on the ghastly spectacle of death. Within
three or four yards of the corpses, a company of noisy
gamblers were boisterously pursuing their nefarious voca-
tion. Such is the baneful spell of paganism! such the
unhallowed influence of every false religion! Even within
sight of Budhist altars, close by numerous temples dedica-
ted to heathen gods, under the vertical beams of all the
benevolence that paganism can be supposed to diffuse, we
behold the spectacle of death and the dying, sinking into
the grave because none will help them, and most of them
perishing from actual starvation and neglect. The most
corrupt form of Christianity knows no anomaly of this kind.
The most feeble measure of Christian influence forbids
hunger, disease, and penury to linger within sight, without
making an effort to impart relief. But heathen priests per-
mit the groan of the dying sufferer to ascend to the sky, as
a testimony to that declaration of Holy Writ, The dark
places of the earth are full of the habitations of cruelty. The dead bodies are, from time to time, removed from
the square by the authorities, and are buried at the expense
of government. Oct. 22d.—In the afternoon we formed a party for
making a pedestrian excursion into the rural districts, on 


44 EXCURSION INTO HONAN. the Honan side of the river. We passed through numerous
streets, and crossed a few bridges, at last fairly emerging
into the open fields, over which we pursued our way to the
distance of two miles and a half. We passed within sight
of Leang Afa's abode, but judged it expedient not to men-
tion his name, nor by any other means to excite any suspi-
cion of his connection with foreigners, to the hazard of his
person, as the edict against his life has never been formally
revoked. Our route lay through a burial-ground, covered
with tomb-stones, at one end of which was a little altar with
an idol. A poor woman was engaged in burning gilt-paper
and fragrant sticks, and makingprostrationsbefore the image.
The keeper of the altar begged us to move onward, as the
woman would be afraid to proceed with her offering, and
his gains would be endangered. The woman interrupted
him, and, with true good humor, told us she was not afraid
of our remaining. Another woman soon joined in the of-
fering, when both of them kept beating their heads to the
ground before the idol, and uttering an indistinct kind of
prayer. They then rose, and consulted the idol on the
subject which they desired, by throwing into the air two
semicircular pieces of wood, formed of bamboo-roots, and
inferring the idol's answer, favorable or otherwise, from
the convex side falling downward, or the contrary; after
which they took their departure, not forgetting to pay the
man fifteen cash as his fee. We proceeded through a
well-cultivated district, abounding with rice-fields and little
dykes or canals, till at last we reached a village larger than
the rest, where an assemblage of people rapidly gathered
around us. One of our party, who spoke Chinese, entered
a shop, and addressed some questions to the inmates; but
both they and the by-standers evinced a shy, unfriendly
spirit, and gave rude replies, advising us to go back to our
houses. We returned by a different way, and met with no an-
noyance, as our party amounted to seven or eight, except


LEANG AFA's SON, A-TUH. 45 from a number of young men and boys, who, seeing our
approach, through a lane, toward a door which led into the
fields, quickly ran round by another road, and, barring the
door, effectually interrupted our progress for some minutes,
more in joke than anger. After a short delay, one of them,
possessing more good nature than the rest, opened the
door, and we passed through it, while a shout of derision
was raised from the crowd rapidly increasing around us.
During our walk back we recognized a few patients who
had enjoyed the benefits of the Missionary Hospital, and
who now showed their gratitude by using their influence in
our favor, and winning respect for the strangers from their
neighbors. Oct. 29th.—Leang Afa called to introduce to us his son,
A-tuh. The latter is a smart, intelligent, and well-educated
young man. He has, for some time, been under the in-
struction and care of the Rev. Dr. Bridgman, of the Amer-
ican Board of Missions. Under his roof he received ad-
vantages which place him, intellectually, far above any
other individual among his countrymen. In addition to
the other general branches of European education, he has
a tolerable measure of acquaintance with the Hebrew lan-
guage. Having recently abandoned the missionaries at
Hong Kong, and connected himself with the mercantile
establishment of Powtinqua, the principal native merchant
and gentleman of Canton, he is naturally regarded by the
missionaries with some suspicion; and it is to be feared
that he has been tempted by the superior gains and secu-
lar advantages which he receives as interpreter, to desert
the quiet life and less alluring prospects of the missionary
body. He professes a temporary absence, and states his
intention soon to return to Hong Kong. He is sometimes
invited into the presence of Ke-Ying, and has been more
than once consulted on the customs, history, and power of
Europeans. The high pay which he receives places him
far above the rank of his father; and though the influence. 


46 DISAFFECTION OF CHINESE TO HONG KONG. for good, of such an individual, in the government offices,
may be extensive in improving the tone of international in-
tercourse, yet it is difficult to banish regret from the mind,
that, for direct Christian missionary work, he is practically
lost to us. The case of A-tuh appears to be a specimen
of the difficulty and disappointment to which our missions
will, for some years, be necessarily exposed, unless the
English language be excluded from mission schools. He speaks English fluently, and interpreted between us
and his father The French treaty, and the facilities which
were reported to have been secured for the protection of
the Roman Catholic religion in the interior, formed, at this
time, an exciting subject of discussion among those ac-
quainted with external nations. A-tuh thought that the
report was true, but that the stipulation would not be rati-
fied by the emperor; or that the mandarins would defeat
it, by preventing the sale of land for churches, and by sim-
ilar stratagems. Both of them spoke unfavorably of Hong
Kong, as the resort of the worst classes, driven thither by
destitution or crime. A-tuh especially spoke of the inso-
lent treatment to which the Chinese residents were ex-
posed from the police and the Europeans generally, and
became much excited when he spoke of a recent indignity
of treatment which his father had suffered. He said the
English had always been overbearing toward his country-
men, and until they showed a kinder spirit toward them
Christianity would never be respected. Especially, con-
tinued he, since the war the Chinese generally hated the
English to a much greater degree than even before, as
they had done so much greater mischief. On this account
they were more disinclined than formerly to listen to Christ-
ian doctrines, thinking that if Englishmen were Christians
it could not be a good religion which permitted them to be
so insolent and mischievous. Afa, though he corroborated the general tenor of these
remarks, evinced a more meek and gentle spirit. In reply


afa's christian patriotism. 47
to the expression of my hope that he might have many
souls for his hire, and my remark that they, the first fruits
of the Gospel in China, were, in a peculiar manner, chosen
out from the masses of surrounding heathenism, Afa said,
with evident feeling, "If foreign Christians have such love
for souls as to come to preach the Gospel to the Chinese,
who hate them, how much more ought I, a Chinaman, to
exert myself for the conversion of my countrymen." On
my asking him what were the principal obstacles to mis-
sionary success, he replied, " The Chinaman's heart is very
hard: they will listen to European missionaries, and not
bring objections till they have departed. But to me they
will address remarks of this kind: 'Perhaps this English
doctrine may be very good; but we wish that you would
first try it on the English themselves, for they are wicked
men. When this doctrine has made them better then come
and speak to us.'" At another time, inquirers would come
for two or three days to his house and listen to his instruc-
tions. The last question, before ceasing their inquiries
about the new doctrine, is frequently this: "How many
dollars a month shall we obtain if we become Christians V
Afa observed to me, " God can soften even such hearts, and
no one else." Before his departure I intimated to him
that he was known by name to many Christian persons
m my own country, and that they watched his progress
with affectionate interest. The old man could not refrain
from shedding tears, and, pointing to heaven, he said that
he prayed heartily that he might be what he ought to be;
but he felt that he was not strong. Though connected with foreign missionaries, he is a
stanch patriot. The following instance occurred before
the outbreak of open hostilities between his country and
the British :—He came with patriotic earnestness to the
late Mr. Morrison, and entreated him to use his influence
in preventing war. His argument was characteristic. He
feared that if the English came to fight with the Chinese, 


48 VISIT TO THE SOUTHERN SUBURBS. and to destroy their lives, his countrymen would never
afterward receive Bibles, or listen to preaching, from En-
glish missionaries. The interests of Christianity, therefore,
should induce him to prevent hostilities by all means in his
power. In his preaching at Hong Kong he is very bold in
his apologies for the English. Sometimes he speaks of his
son A-tuh; and requests the Chinese, if they doubt his op-
portunities of estimating the English character, to ask his
son, who has been brought up among foreigners, and writes,
and speaks, and reads their language. On such occasions
the Chinese evince excitement, and are said generally to
regard A-tuh with mingled feelings of admiration and sus-
picion, as a person "who knows too much of the for-
eigners." A growing impression is, however, by these
means, imperceptibly produced of the superior arts, knowl-
edge, and civilization of Christian lands, and of the disin-
terested benevolence of those English friends among whom
Afa mixes in familiar intercourse. The following incidents will be a practical illustration of
the existing facilities for missionary work at Canton—facil-
ities which are of no very extensive kind, but such as have,
nevertheless, existed for some time, and might, perhaps
with advantage, have been made, even at an earlier period,
the vehicle of a widely-spread system of oral instruction in
Christian doctrines, among the crowded masses of the sub-
urban population. Among the various visits which I made to the suburbs,
at a distance from the factories, was an occasional walk to
the homely residence of an American missionary, the Rev.
J. Roberts. He arrived in Canton during the last summer,
having, during the seven years of his past residence in
China, been engaged at Macao, and in the island of Hong
Kong, among the lowest class of the population. Previous
to his arrival at Canton, the only missionary machinery in
existence was the Ophthalmic Hospital, close to the foreign
factories. Immediately on his arrival, he cherished the 


CHINESE COMPANIONS. 49
laudable project of settling among the Chinese themselves,
and living in free intercourse with them. He accordingly
rented a few rooms in the house of a native merchant, who
the more readily afforded him a lodging, as he wished to
enlarge his trade, and to court an acquaintance with for-
eigners. Here he adopted the habits and costume of Chi-
nese life. However some may be inclined to doubt the
expediency of such a course as the latter, yet no one can
refrain from commending the courage and zeal by which it
was dictated. Here, at the time of my visits, he usually
had two native assistants in his lodging; and, during the
week, several Chinese, of the lower class of merchants and
tradesmen, were in the habit of making a call, and cultiva-
ting friendly intercourse. On one occasion I hired a boat,
and sailed about a mile down the river, east of the facto-
ries, to a point of the suburbs nearly opposite the old fort,
called the Dutch Folly. Here, with some difficulty, I de-
scried, amid the crowds of boats between which we were
pursuing our intricate course, the Chinese characters in-
scribed on the dwelling in which Mr. Roberts had secured
a lodging for himself and his native companions. It was
close to the Tsing Hai Mun, one of the southern gates of
the city wall. On landing, I proceeded to the hong, and
was speedily ushered into my friend's apartments. My
arrival seemed to interest the novel company into which I
was introduced. Four or five Chinese, of respectable ap-
pearance, were seated in the room with my friend and two
of his native assistants. A religious inquirer, who was
formerly a strolling fortune-teller, and, in that capacity,
had traveled over a considerable number of the provinces,
and acquired several dialects, also formed one of the num-
ber, being for the present an inmate of the house. After
the usual inquiries—such as my age, and the period of my
arrival in Canton—prompted by Chinese curiosity, were
over, the conversation, which had been interrupted, was
resumed among them. One of the assistants had a tract,
E


50 MISSIONARY EXCURSION DOWN THE RIVER. which he read aloud, adding lengthened comments and ex-
planations, and thus giving a general outline of Christian
doctrine. He was succeeded by the other, who, for anoth-
er quarter of an hour, addressed the little company on the
same subject. During this time the visitors listened atten-
tively, nodding assent, and bowing the whole time to indi-
cate their comprehension. My friend also joined in con-
versation, and replied to their questions. Later in the day
we made an excursion in a boat farther down the river,
taking one of the Chinese assistants, and a large supply of
religious tracts. Landing on the Honan side of the river,
about two miles below the factories, we made the best of
our way, through the crowds that were attracted by the
rare event of a foreigner landing there, to a platform which
was built on piles, and extended a little distance into the
river. Taking up our station here, we speedily had a con-
gregation of about one hundred persons, who pressed upon
us to such a degree that we had some difficulty in main-
taining our position. Here, amid houses of the lowest de-
scription, and with a gang of gamblers in the adjacent
room, the native assistant preached to an attentive audi-
ence the things belonging to their everlasting peace. About
two hundred tracts were afterward distributed, and por-
tions of the Word of God circulated among the rapidly-
increasing crowd, who, in their eagerness to receive copies,
sometimes transgressed the usual limits of Chinese deco-
rum. We walked about, experiencing no rude treatment
or annoyances, except those prompted by a harmless curi-
osity. It will be difficult, however, to disabuse the native
mind of the erroneous impression, that Christianity, like
Confucianism, is more a subject of theoretical speculation
than a practical principle of purity of heart and life. Not-
withstanding the attentive interest which seemed to beam
in every countenance, and the sensible questions which in-
dicated their intellectual apprehension of the instructions
conveyed to them, we soon had painful proof of the laxity 


DISTRIBUTION OF NATIVE MORAL TRACTS. 51 of morals which they deemed compatible with our mission-
ary objects. Landing about half a mile lower down the river, on the
opposite side, and at no great distance from the southern
wall of the city, we soon formed the acquaintance of a tea-
merchant, in whose shop the same scenes recurred, on a
smaller scale, and more tracts were distributed. The pro-
prietor himself had, for gratuitous distribution, some native
moral tracts, one of which he presented to us, and to the
contents of which I shall make subsequent allusion. After
taking tea with him, and giving one or two persons with
disease of the eye a note of recommendation to the Oph-
thalmic Hospital, we departed to our boat, accompanied to
the river by about a hundred persons, who, if they had
wished to gratify any vindictive malice against foreigners,
were not destitute of materials for such an object in the
stones and pebbles which lay on the beach. Good humor,
however, was every where apparent. Returning to the Tsing Hai Mun, we dined, in Chinese
style, with one of the natives; and in the evening, accom-
panied by my friend, I proceeded to the factories. In one
of the streets we each took one side of the way, and call-
ing at nearly every house, at the hour at which masters and
servants were eating their evening meal together, we left
among the party a tract, which was, in every case, received
with politeness, and often with apparent thankfulness.
The subject of the tract was, " The Love of God," and it
contained a large portion of 1 Cor., xiii. Of the quality of the piety and knowledge possessed by
the native assistants I was unable to form an opinion.
They were certainly novices. I saw nothing, however, to
authorize the suspicion that they were actuated by other
motives than a desire to promote the glory of God. My
friend himself has evinced no inconsiderable degree of faith
and courage in being the first missionary to penetrate the
dense masses of the suburb population, and to live among


52
STATISTICS OF INFANTICIDE. them as a friend and a brother. He has not had the ad-
vantage of a liberal education; and his peculiar plans have
separated him from the missionary society with which he
was originally connected. He remains, however, support-
ed principally by local pecuniary help; and, in the future
results of his missionary labors, it will perhaps be found
that God often chooses the weak things of the world to con-
found the things that are mighty. Concerning the little book which we received during our
stay in the tea-merchant's shop, my old teacher, Choo, gave
me the following information. It was written about thirty
years ago by a renowned mandarin, Hang Fung, to dis-
courage the practice of drowning female infants, as its title
implied. The author was a good man, and lieutenant-gov-
ernor of Kwangtung province. He died about ten years
ago. This book was originally published, and gratuitously
distributed, at the expense of the government; and even
now its circulation is promoted at the expense of the be-
nevolent portion of the native community. This book nat-
urally led me to question Choo further respecting the prev-
alence of female infanticide. In reply to my inquiries, he
gave me the following statistical information. Taking a
circle of the radius of ten miles around the spot where we
were, he computed that the number of infanticides did not
exceed one hundred a-year. The practice was entirely
confined to the poor, and originated in the difficulty of
rearing their female offspring. Rich men never practiced
the custom; and even poor men were ashamed of the prac-
tice. He knew, among his acquaintance, some who had
drowned their daughters; but they did not like to confess
the deed, but would speak of their children having died of
disease. In Fokeen province, on the other hand, female
infanticides were very prevalent. At a place called Kea-
Ying-Chow, about five days' journey, or 800 le, above
Canton (placed, in the map, in the northeast of the prov-
ince, but bordering on Fokeen), there were computed to


FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. 53
be 500 or 600 female infanticides in a month. The com-
parative infrequency of the malpractice at Canton he as-
cribed to the foundling hospital there established, and su-
perintended by the government. He computed that 5000
female children, the offspring of parents in circumstances
of poverty and want, were annually taken to this institu-
tion, where they received a temporary provision and suste-
nance, under the inspection of an officer who visited the
hospital every five days, and granted a certain sum for the
purpose. From time to time, the more affluent class of
merchants and gentry visit the hospital, and select some of
the children, whom they take to their home, and educate
for concubines or servants. The institution is capable of
containing about 1000 infants; and each child is generally
removed in the space of two or three months, either being
taken to the homes of the wealthy, or being sent to wet
nurses to be reared apart from the foundling hospital.
This is the only institution of the kind in the province; and
a portion of the rates levied on foreign ships, in former
times, was professedly for the support of this establishment,
which is situated about a mile from the city, in the eastern
suburbs. These facts account for the general exemption
of Canton from infanticide. But the circumstance of indi-
vidual Chinese incurring the expense of gratuitously dis-
tributing a pamphlet discouraging the practice, is sufficient
proof, to every reasonable mind, that the evil still exists to
a lamentable extent, rendering the appliance of such a
moral remedy necessary. Another young native, A-tsin,
whom, on account of his knowledge of English, we engaged
for occasional assistance as teacher, subsequently corrobo-
rated the general tenor of Choo's statements. Nov. iih to 13th.—It is difficult for a person, merely
resident at the southern port of Canton, to form a just con-
ception of the real character of social life among the more
refined classes of Chinese. Practically restrained within
the narrow boundaries of the foreign hongs, and excluded
F*


54 CHINESE ILLUMINATIONS. from a free intercourse with the gentry of rank and influ-
ence, the utmost acquaintance that a foreigner can acquire,
during a residence of even several years at Canton, will more
resemble an occasional and hasty glimpse, than a matured
insight into their manners. Of the majesty of Chinese law,
and the real character of their religion, the circumscribed
limits of a foreigner's residence render it impossible to speak
from that extensive observation which the other free ports
offer to the inquiring mind. Of the former I saw nothing which led me to form any
great estimation. A procession of mandarins once passed
me on their way to the river, to which they were escorted
by a number of police runners, a sorry band of musicians,
and the usual insignia decorating their sedan-chairs. There
was nothing imposing in the aspect of the officials, some of
whom were very portly, and others laboring under the de-
crepitude of old age. Of the influence which religion exerts over the daily life
and actions of the community, it is less difficult, although
not easy, to form an estimate. The uneducated are mani-
festly idolaters; nor did the better classes seem to rise
much above the superstitions of the vulgar. In fact, the
Chinese have no acknowledged system of religious belief,
except a compound or farrago of all the strange vagaries
which falsehood, priestcraft, mysticism, and fear, have combined in diffusing alike among Budhists, Taouists, and Con-
fucians. Their notions are wild, vague, and confused; and
they are ready to ingraft on the multiplied absurdities of
their belief any unmeaning practice which may seem likely
to procure a lucky omen, or the favor of chance. Of this
character are the numerous illuminations, theatricals, and
offerings, which at this season of the year abound in Can-
ton. The destructive ravages of fire among whole streets,
rendered still more destructive by the light, combustible
materials of which their houses are composed, have led to
the practice of propitiating the tutelary deities of the


STREET THEATRICALS.
55
neighborhood by a yearly offering at the commencement
of the winter season. Subscriptions are collected to raise
a fund for this purpose; and whole streets may be seen in
their turn, night after night, brilliantly illuminated for a
general holyday. Public companies are also formed for
supplying the usual lamps, festoons, musicians, images, and
other accessories, which grace the festive occasion. At the
end of some of the streets the effect to the eye is magnifi-
cently grand, where the tradesmen have been unusually
successful in business since the former similar occasion, and,
as an acknowledgement, subscribed their money for a fes-
tival of more than ordinary grandeur. In walking through
the streets, the attention is suddenly arrested by ingenious-
ly-contrived machinery, performing, by means of images,
many of the acts of ordinary life, to the gratification of the
crowd below. A little farther on a company of living mu-
sicians, in a retired recess, or gallery, accompanying the
voice of some artiste of song, rivet the attention of silent
admirers. Suddenly, in some wider part of the street,
numerous drums, gongs, and the shrill tones of the peculiar
Chinese falsetto voice, indicate the principal center of at-
traction. On an elevated stage may be seen mandarin
processions; battles between the Celestials and Barbarians
(in which the former, of course, are always victorious); na-
tive heroes slaying their thousands, and whirling round in
the violence of martial fury; and horsemen whipping their
unruly steeds, as well as the whip and the action can com-
pensate for the absence of the imaginary animal. Soon,
again, imperial councils and the politic measures of sage
rulers, together with an occasional introduction to an inte-
rior view of Chinese social life, may be seen acted in all
the pompous majesty of actual reality, amid the plaudits
of the enthusiastic assemblage. On one occasion, the mal-
practices and ambitious career of Tsaou- Tsaou, a wicked
mandarin in the Han dynasty, the Napoleon of his age and
country, were the subject of representation. The interest


50
SOCIAL POSITION OF PLAYERS.
and sympathies of the assemblage seemed to be intense, as
they watched the misfortunes of the devoted emperor and
his faithful adherents, and the evil successes of the ambi-
tious rebel chief, who subsequently founded a dynasty in the
person of his grandson. The actors spoke the Nanking, 01
old court dialect, and were arrayed in sumptuous dresses.
At intervals, one of their attendants advanced to the front
of the stage, and changed the inscription on a tablet, which
always exhibited some moral maxim, of which the coming
scene was to be illustrative. The inhabitants of each local-
ity seek, by these festive rites, professedly to appease the
presiding genii of the place, but in reality to please them-
selves. The parts of women are sustained by young men
or boys. It affords some insight into the real estimation in
which players are held by the educated and influential
classes, to know that theatrical actors, however their accom-
plished arts are sought by all, are nevertheless, in common
with menials and priests, excluded from the privilege of
literary examinations, and, consequently, from all hope of
rising to a station of power and wealth. Such are some of the impressions which were made on
my mind during the period of this my first visit to Canton,
as their outline still lingers on the memory, and helps to
recall my thoughts to the first vivid associations and excit-
ing novelties of Chinese life. The remembrance of those
happy hours is still fresh, and sheds a peculiar fragrance on
a period of the past, consecrated by many blessings. 


CHAPTER V. REMOVAL TO MACAO, AND RETURN TO HONG KONG. Voyage to Macao—Description of the Place—Its former Importance and
present Decay—Origin of the Settlement—Its Peculiarity as a Missionary
Station—Popish Intolerance—Morrison and Milne—Voyage to Hong
Kong—Detention at Hong Kong—Missionary Excursions—Villages of
Hong Kong—Villages on the Mainland of China—Agong, a native Preach-
er—Ordinance of the British Government against Secret Societies—Po-
litical Origin of the "Triad Society"—Chinese Population of Hong Kong
—Case of A-quei—A native Juggler. The combined effects of climate and close application to
the study of Chinese on my health at length rendered it
necessary, in the opinion of my medical adviser, that I
should leave for Macao for change of air. Accordingly,
on Nov. 14th, I left Canton soon after sunset, in a native
fast-boat, accompanied by two American gentlemen. After
a voyage of about thirty hours, during which I suffered
considerably from pain in the head and fever, we came to
anchor in Macao harbor soon after midnight on the 15th.
My two companions immediately disembarked; but being
myself too unwell to land at that hour, I remained in the
boat till morning. The little sleep I could get, amid the
dashings of the boats against each other, was effectually
interrupted at daybreak by the curiosity of the people in
the adjoining boats, men and women, who pulled open the
Venetians at the side of my boat, and surveyed the contents
of the cabin. As often as they were driven off they would
return and repeat the experiment, so that I had at length
to dress, with about twenty people intently gazing on me
during the process. On landing, I proceeded to a Portu-
guese hotel, where I was confined to my room for three
days, and then removed to the house of an American mis-
sionary, the Rev. W. Lowrie, whose hospitality and Chris-


58
ARRIVAL AT MACAO. tian kindness were a double comfort to me in my present
circumstances. Under his roof I spent a fortnight, occa-
sionally taking short walks on the neighboring beach and
in the adjoining localities, and enjoying the advantage of
frequent intercourse with a few missionaries lately arrived
from America, and temporarily resident at Macao. The view of Macao is very striking, as seen from the
harbor, and the place itself forms the most delightful resi-
dence open to foreigners in China. Having been for two
centuries in the possession of the Portuguese, it presents to
the eye the aspect of a European city, with its assemblages
of churches, towers, and forts. It stands on an inconsidera-
ble promontory of the island of Heang-shan, from which it is
separated, at the isthmus, by a narrow fortification, jealously
guarded in former times by the Chinese, to prevent com-
munication from the interior. It possesses two fine har-
bors, the inner and the outer, one on each side of the head-
land. Its fine, broad roads on the semicircular beach pre-
sent a motley appearance of the various races, of Chinese
and European descent, which form its population. The
European houses are spacious and of handsome exterior.
Until the conclusion of the late war, it was the only resi-
dence for the families of foreign merchants, who were pro-
hibited from taking their wives to Canton. The settlement
of Hong Kong, and the more liberal regulations of the
Chinese government in regard to the residence of foreign
ladies at Canton, have operated conjointly in causing the
removal of nearly all the British and American residents;
and only a few American families now remain at Macao.
For the possession of this isolated spot on the frontiers of
China, so important under the old Chinese policy, both in
a mercantile and religious point of view, the Portuguese
were indebted to the gratitude of former Chinese monarchs,
in return for the opportune services rendered them in the
suppression of the pirates who, under the leadership of the
noted Coxinga, endangered the stability of the ruling dy-








MISSIONARY ASPECT. 61 nasty. On account of the ambiguous position and circum-
scribed sphere occupied by the few missionaries at Canton,
Macao may be said to have been the only station, in former
times, on the soil of China Proper, really invested with a
missionary character. Macao, in many respects, resembled
a fashionable watering-place in England, and abounded
with the comforts, the refinements, and even the luxuries
of European life. Such a locality was little adapted to de-
velop missionary zeal, or to impress the native mind with a
respect for our religion. It was, however, the only acces-
sible point on the frontiers of a benighted empire, which
seemed to have entirely closed every other avenue to the
approach of Christian light. The few Protestant missiona-
ries, who were stationed here, had to contend with many
discouragements. On the one hand was a Popish priest-
hood, intimately connected with the local government, nar-
rowly watching the measures of missionaries, and ready to
crush, at the earliest stage, any attempts to make converts
to Protestantism. On the other hand, the missionaries pos-
sessed only limited means of intercourse with a depraved
Chinese population, presenting materials the most heteroge-
neous and unlikely to be conformed to the principles of the
Gospel. Added to which there was a mixed authority, in
Macao itself, of the Portuguese and Chinese governments.
The precise boundary of their divided authority, was a
subject of continual doubt, as also of occasional altercation;
so that it was only by the sufferance of two adversaries,
equally opposed to the truth, that these incipient and dis-
proportionate efforts were conducted for the moral emanci-
pation of the Chinese race. A short time before the late
war between Britain and China, there were at Macao only
four Protestant missionaries who were able to speak Chi-
nese fluently. Their efforts were principally directed to
the issuing of Christian publications from the missionary
press, to the translation or revision of the Holy Scriptures,
to the preparation and distribution of religious tracts, to
F


62
POPISH INTOLERANCE.
medical institutions for the benefit of the natives, and to
the education of the few native children whom they were
able to obtain. Direct missionary labors were conducted,
when attempted at all, on a small scale; and the preaching
of the Gospel was deprived of that prominence among
God's appointed means for converting mankind which in
other parts of the world it justly occupies. The remains
of the Rev. Dr. Morrison, his wife, and his son, Mr. John
Robert Morrison, and also those of the Rev. S. Dyer,
are interred in the European burial-ground, in the castle-
gardens. These names will ever be remembered among
the first Protestant missionaries to the Chinese, and be re-
garded by future Chinese converts with affectionate grati-
tude, as those of some of the most illustrious benefactors
of their race. In the early stages of his missionary career,
it was only by intrenching himself behind employments of
a secular kind, that Morrison was enabled to maintain his
ground against the bigoted jealousy of a Popish priesthood
and an illiberal government. Without such official position
Milne was, speedily after his arrival, banished from the con-
templated scene of missionary labor to the more distant
stations in the Straits of Malacca. The principal establish-
ment of the Jesuits has been recently removed from Macao
to the British settlement of Hong Kong, where they are
permitted to purchase ground from the government to build
a mission-house and church, and to pursue without restraint
their work of proselytism, under the mild toleration of a
Protestant rule. Such is the contrast to be seen in the pre-
vailing spirit of Popery and Protestantism, when respect-
ively influencing the policy of governments. On the morning of December 2d, I left Macao for Hong
Kong, in a native passage-boat, crowded with Chinese pass-
engers, who pretty well divided their whole time between
eating, smoking, and gambling. Being the only European
on board, for a small sum I was indulged with the privi-
lege of having a little room separated off from the main 


RETURN TO AND DETENTION AT HONG KONG. 63
body of my fellow-passengers, who, however, still rendered
themselves very unpleasant companions by the clouds of
opium and tobacco smoke which they sent into my berth.
The next day at noon we arrived at Hong Kong, and I
was soon after domiciled in the residence of the colonial
chaplain, the Rev. Vincent Stanton, who, with his excellent
wife, paid me unremitting kindness during my protracted
sojourn beneath their hospitable roof. My friend, Mr.
M'Clatchie, arriving from Canton, joined me at Hong Kong
on December 20th; and on the 20th of February following
he embarked for Shanghai, in order to fix his permanent
abode, and to pursue his Chinese studies at that port,
which, on the whole, seemed most likely to become one of
the contemplated stations of the Church Missionary Socie-
ty. The exploratory work of visiting all the newly-opened
ports of China was left to me, which, however, the contin-
ued weakness of my health prevented my attempting till
after the close of the unfavorable monsoon, later in the
spring. The ordinary incidents of my residence at Hong Kong,
though they must ever be deeply impressed on my own
mind in the retrospect of its many mercies and privileges, I shall pass over, as being of a nature little calculated to give
information concerning China and the Chinese. A few par-
ticulars will be given illustrative of the general position of
missionaries, and the character of missionary pursuits, in
this recently-acquired appendage to the colonial empire of
Britain. A more comprehensive view of the probable
influence of Hong Kong on the destinies of the Chinese
race, and the real advantages which it secures to the mis-
sionary of the cross, as well, also, as its general eligibility
as a center of missionary operations, will be reserved for
more systematic and enlarged considerations at the close
of the volume. A view of the state of things in the consu-
lar ports on the mainland of China will enable the reader,
with greater correctness and approximation to truth, to


64
THE REV. C. GUTZLAFF.
form his opinion of the relative advantages of Hong Kong
and those ports, as he accompanies the author in the jour-
nal of his tour along the coast. During the period of my
temporary residence at Hong Kong, I enjoyed the valuable
privilege of continued intercourse with the various mission-
aries who were at this time assembled at Hong Kong in
more than their ordinary number, many of them being either
temporary residents in the colony, by way of testing its
eligibility, or visiting the place on their route to some other
missionary station on the coast. From some of these, who
had been for several years in the missionary field, I receiv-
ed valuable counsel and information, which compensated,
in a great degree, for the length of time during which I
was, by various circumstances, detained at Hong Kong. One of the most remarkable men in China is already
well known to the religious part of the community at home,
by the published accounts of his missionary voyages along
the coast in former times—the Rev. C. Gutzlaff. Though
he doubtless saw many things through the medium of a
sanguine mind, and his opinions are, consequently, re-
ceived with caution by the missionaries, yet his past mis-
sionary labors for the benefit of the Chinese were conduct-
ed in a spirit of boldness and courage worthy the apostolic
age. His knowledge of various Chinese dialects, and his
extraordinary mental and physical activity, qualify him for
an abundant measure of usefulness, such as few men can
attain. It is therefore a subject to be regretted, that, by
the close engagements of his office as Chinese secretary and
interpreter to the government, he is to a great extent sep-
arated from missionary work. He still, however, makes
missionary excursions, in the evenings and on the Sabbath-
day, among the Chinese villages, in company with some
native preachers in whom he has confidence; and, with all
his secular engagements, is able to do almost as much in
active exertion as ordinary missionaries are able to effect
without such secular employment. A brief account of an 


A MISSIONARY EXCURSION. 65 excursion, in which he kindly invited me to accompany him,
will give some idea of the class of Chinese on the island,
and the degree of intercourse which can be held with them
for missionary purposes. On Dec. 22d, about nine o'clock a.m., we embarked in a
Chinese boat, accompanied by two native preachers, named
A-seaou and A-tai, and proceeded along the harbor in an
easterly direction. The morning was bright and beautiful,
though the cold air made an upper coat indispensable to
our full comfort. The towering hills of Hong Kong on our
right, and the bold outline of the opposite coast, with na-
tive huts and villages on the mainland, and a number of
Chinese junks and war-vessels sailing about in the opposite
bay of Cow-loon, gave a pleasing and romantic effect to the
scene. We doubled the small headland, which forms the
eastern boundary of the harbor, and soon lost sight of the
town of Victoria. Our plan was to have passed through
the Limun Channel, and, steering northward, to have reach-
ed a populous village on the mainland, about twenty miles
distant. As the tide had now turned against us, and the
wind was also unfavorable, there remained no probability
of our reaching the village till late in the afternoon. We
accordingly changed our course, and determined on making
the bay, which extends about two miles along the shore
of Hong Kong to the point forming the Limun passage,
the scene of our day's operations. We therefore disem-
barked, and directed the Chinese in the boat to watch our
movements, and to follow us at a little distance from the
beach. We first landed at a stone quarry, where the Chi-
nese workmen were induced to leave their labor, and,
without any difficulty or delay, about twenty natives were
assembled around us, and formed a little congregation
of attentive listeners. Mr. Gutzlaff commenced addressing
them in their own language, on the truths of the Gospel,
with much energy, adapting himself in tone, gesture, and
manner, to the assemblage before him. They listened with F*


66
PREACHING TO THE CHINESE.
apparent pleasure, frequently responding and offering ob-
servations. He was succeeded, in turn, by his two native
assistants, who, with much animation, especially A-tai, the
younger, addressed their fellow-countrymen. The whole
was concluded by Mr. Gutzlaff offering a short prayer to
the Almighty. We then departed, after leaving a few
tracts, amid the plaudits and salutations of the assembly,
most of whom had something to say to us. In this way we
proceeded over a space of two miles, which was covered
at almost every level and habitable point by native huts
of rude construction, but with substantial outer walls to
repel the inroads of pirates and freebooters. They seemed
to recognize, in Mr. Gutzlaff and his native assistants, old
acquaintances; and the authoritative tone and manner
with which he compelled any hesitating or inattentive indi-
vidual to give his presence and attention was sometimes
amusing. At one time we had a congregation in the open
air, with the heavens as our canopy, and the rugged soil as
the pulpit. At another time we met in some native dwell-
ing, where the tenants of the adjoining huts were congre-
gated, Mr. Gutzlaff stationing himself at the door to allow
free ingress, but to prevent the egress of any refractory
individual. His mild compulsions were received with good
humor, extracting a smile from the object of them, and
approval from the rest. The majority were eager to listen,
following us, in some instances, to the next place of meeting,
where the services underwent a slight change or alterna-
tion of the parts assigned to each preacher. Some of the
more intelligent listeners made remarks in the course of the
address. The dialect which they spoke was the Hok-ha,
which differs considerably from the Canton dialect gener-
ally spoken in these parts. While Mr. Gutzlaff, with his
usual activity, mounted a hill, which I deemed my strength
unequal to the labor of climbing, my attention was attracted,
by the frequent noise of fireworks and crackers, to a little
eminence, to which some degree of sanctity seemed to be 


DISPOSITION OF THE NATIVES.
attached. On ascending it, I saw two or three ugly idols,
black in appearance, and only about six inches in height,
with sundry decorations, and a quantity of gilt paper repre-
senting garments in miniature. Before them were little
cups filled with tea, and spacious dishes of recently-cooked
fowl and ham, with potatoes and yams, and the usual ap-
pendages of a Chinese feast. Two women and three or
four men were all that visited the place during the time I
remained. They left the food exposed without any fear
of its being taken away; but this appearance of devoutness
generally terminates in their removing the offerings, and
having a feast on them at their own houses. We next went on board a boat anchored close to the
beach, and filled with a cargo of paving-stones. The crew
amounted to about twenty, and evinced a shy manner.
Here we had a service, necessarily rendered short by their
heedless, inattentive, and unwilling disposition. Mr. Gutz-
lafF, in the course of his address, told them they were
pirates and robbers, wicked men, living without God, and
exhorted them to repentance of sin and faith in His Son.
They showed no disposition to revenge the low opinion
entertained of their morality, and attempted no denial.
The whole population of these scattered hamlets consists,
with few exceptions, of Chinese of the lowest description
and character, driven by outlawry and crime, as frequently
as by the want of subsistence elsewhere, to the neighbor-
hood of this new British settlement. This reflection, together
with the novelty of our situation, helped to excite me to
earnest prayer for the presence and blessing of the Holy
Spirit. While listening to the yet unfamiliar sounds and
tones of the Chinese language applied to the new and ex-
alted object of prayer to the true God, I trust I joined in
spirit, and found it good to be there. Six hours were spent
in such visits. The last place of meeting was at a large
village, in the shop of a tradesman of respectable appear-
ance. The largest assemblage during the day amounted


68
EXCURSION ON THE MAINLAND. to about fifty persons; and probably three or four hundred
in all heard the sound of the Gospel. We re-embarked
about half-past four p.m., and, having a fair breeze, sailed
toward Victoria, on our return, at a brisk rate. The peo-
ple whom we visited were generally Budhists in practice,
and idols were conspicuous in every dwelling. Not long after the former excursion, some other mission-
aries formed a little party to accompany Agong, a Chinese
Christian, baptized about sixteen years ago by the late
Dr. Morrison, and now engaged as a native preacher in
connection with the Medical Missionary Hospital, on a visit
to the villages on the mainland opposite to Victoria. I
went in the company; and as no one present could speak
the local dialect fluently, Agong was the chief speaker on
the occasion. We were attended by a native boy, who
carried books and tracts for distribution. The latter was
almost a superfluous work, as in these parts hardly one
man in a village can read a book, though many are able
to understand a sufficient number of characters to keep a
shop or to reckon their debts. There was a hope, how-
ever, of their ultimately falling into the hands of more in-
telligent readers. On landing at a village called Sham-
Shwui, our party separated into two bodies, in order to
disarm the fears of the people, two of our number sallying
forth on a pedestrian excursion over the neighboring hill,
while a medical missionary and myself proceeded through
the various hamlets, where little assemblages of willing
hearers, prompted by curiosity, were got together, and
Agong addressed them on the contents of the tracts distrib-
uted. A few cases of disease were also examined, and the
patients were invited to come to the Medical Missionary
Institution in Hong Kong, where their cases would receive attention. Copies of the internal regulations of the hospi-
tal were also circulated, in which a due prominence was
given to the Christian objects of the hospital, and the daily
assembling of the patients for devotion and hearing the 


CHARACTER AND PURSUITS OF THE PEOPLE. 69 Gospel. Much interlocutory dialogue passed between
Agong and some of his countrymen. "What do you
come for V was generally the first query. He replied,
not to get money, but to tell them of Jesus Christ and His
Gospel. One woman asked him how much money we
wanted to get from them if they brought her sick child to
the hospital. He replied, none. This reply seemed to
produce incredulity among them, and drew forth expres-
sions of doubt, till Agong, stroking his white beard most os-
tentatiously, invited them to mark that sign of advanced
age, and then to reflect whether he, so old a man, would
deceive them, or allure them to Hong Kong by false prom-
ises. In this way we passed through several hamlets for a
mile and a half, nothing remarkable occurring during the
walk. The country was in a moderate state of cultivation,
chiefly consisting of fields planted with sweet potatoes, and
a kind of cabbage resembling a lettuce. The paths were
very tortuous, being confined to the narrow fences between
the several inclosures, and having little rills of water run-
ning close to them. The beach was fine, spacious, and
sandy; and the people were open and simple in their man-
ners, one of them serving us with some tea. At the first
village, we assembled at the entrance of a little temple,
dedicated to the "goddess of mercy," or " queen of heav-
en," represented by an image of a female divinity with a
male child in her arms. Behind her image, at a little dis-
tance, were those of the three Budhs. The people appear-
ed to take delight in showing us the various sacred objects;
but there was an entire absence of any indications of reli-
gious awe. Near this little temple was a house, with a
long inscription over a gate leading into the principal court,
which resembled a small farm-yard. This was to inform
the passer-by that some relative of the inmate was a suc-
cessful candidate for literary distinction, and had obtained
a keu-jin degree. The inhabitants of these scattered villages subsist, appa-


70 ORDINANCE AGAINST SECRET SOCIETIES. rently, by agriculture and fishing. They extend over a
mile and a half, and are within sight of the town of Vic-
toria. On various other occasions I made excursions to the
neighboring villages on the island, and to the opposite vil-
lage of Cow-loon, on the mainland, containing about 3000
people and a Chinese fort. I extended my visits also to
some of the numerous little islands known by the general
name of Ladrones, given to them by the Portuguese in for-
mer times, on account of the piratical character of the in-
habitants. During the period of my residence at Hong Kong an
ordinance was passed by the legislative council granting
powers to the executive to punish any Chinese who might
be proved to belong to a secret society. A notice of the
circumstances will help to afford an insight into the social
character and condition of the motley population now gath-
ered under the wing of British law in Hong Kong. In
China there are several secret societies, the members of
which are banded together for certain objects. The prin-
cipal association of this kind is the San hwui, or " Triad
Society." This is supposed primarily to have been a po-
litical combination of the adherents of the old Chinese dy-
nasty, for the object of expelling the present foreign dynasty.
The members are bound by oath to secrecy and mutual
assistance. A large number are thus enrolled, especially
in the southern extremity of the empire, where the original
objects of the institution have gradually given way to a
general spirit of lawlessness, plunder, and rebellion. In
short, both the members of this and similar confederations
are now composed of the most disorderly portion of the
community, their system of oaths and bond of secrecy af-
fording full scope and opportunity to thieves and bandits to
prosecute their evil vocations with little danger of detec-
tion. The recent discovery of a gang of thieves, with their
secret papers, furnished a clue to the existence of these


ORIGIN OF THE TRIAD SOCIETY.
confederations in Hong Kong, where the predatory char-
acter of many of tho Chinese settlers rendered such means
of mutual connivance and secrecy a formidable barrier to
the prevention or detection of crime. The ordinance in
question commences with the following preamble, illustra-
tive of the character of these societies in the view of the
propounders of the ordinance :—
"Whereas the ' Triad Society,' and other secret societies
prevalent in China, exist among the inhabitants of the island
of Hong Kong; and whereas these associations have ob-
jects in view which are incompatible with the maintenance
of good order and constituted authority, and with the secu-
rity of life and property, and afford, by means of a secret
agency, facilities for the commission of crime and for the
escape of offenders:
"Be it therefore enacted, &c., &c. The penalties specified are, imprisonment for three years,
branding on the right cheek, and banishment from the
island. It is feared that a large proportion of the Chinese
population of Hong Kong are members of one or more of
these associations, which, in some respects, resemble the
nature of benefit clubs, in addition to their censurable
objects. These confederations, and especially the " Triad Society,"
have always been an occasion of alarm to the reigning gov-
ernment of China; and persons convicted of membership
have been visited with most severe punishment, as furnish-
ing a nucleus to the more lawless and rebellious elements
of society, and enabling notorious criminals to defeat the
power of justice and authority. The many proclamations
from the local government of Canton, of the same date,
proved the anxiety and trouble which they occasion to the
Chinese government. The origin and history of the " Triad Society" are con-
fessedly involved in much mystery and uncertainty. The
existence of such societies is an instance of the anomalous


72
THE Oi'lL'M MONOPOLY.
combination of the elements of weakness and strength in
the government, and exerts a considerable influence on the
rulers, in the absence of popular representation; so that,
in Many parts of the empire, the Chinese democracy is be-
ginning to assume a formidable aspect. Before leaving Hong Kong, I accompanied a missionary
friend, on several occasions, to the Chinese portion of the
".own, walking through the native bazar and the back
streets bordering on the beach, where we distributed tracts
in some houses among the few persons capable of reading
them. In several houses we witnessed the apparatus for
opium-smoking, but saw no one in the act of smoking till
we came to the house of a wealthy Chinese, named A-quei.
He possesses about fifty houses in the bazar, and lives on
the rent, in a style much above the generality of Chinese
settlers, who are commonly composed of the refuse of the
population of the neighboring mainland. During the war,
A-quei acted as purveyor of provisions to the British arma-
ment, and acquired some wealth. After the peace, he was
at first afraid to return to the mainland, lest he should be
seized as a traitor by the mandarins. In the end he settled
at Hong Kong, where he is said to encourage disreputable
characters by the loan of money, and in various ways to
reap the proceeds of profligacy and crime. He introduced
us to a partner, named A-tai, whom we saw in the process
of smoking opium, inhaling the smoke through the mouth
and emitting it through the nose. The thick fluid of pre-
pared opium being held for a few moments over a flame,
till it became more solid, was placed in the bowl of the
pipe, which was held over a small glass lamp, burning for
the purpose; and the smoker, stretched on a kind of couch
with a head-pillow, gently reposed himself, in order to en-
joy the exciting effects of the fumes. A-tai had just pur-
chased, as the highest bidder, from government, the exclu-
sive right of selling opium by retail, in any quantity less
than a chest, in Hong Kong. For this he said that he had 


A NATIVE JUGGLER. 73 agreed to pay 550 dollars a month. He intended to insti-
tute an office, from which he could sell licenses to individual
opium-house keepers to retail the drug; and out of these
licenses he hoped to make his profits, after paying the 550
dollars monthly to the British government. Some flaw
was, however, subsequently detected in the terms of the
agreement; and, after passing through various hands, the
monopoly was finally purchased by A-quei himself. Refer-
ence will be made hereafter to the extortion, and general
detriment to the interests of the colony, which the system
of management pursued by A-quei speedily tended to cre-
ate. The tracts against opium, which my companion dis-
tributed, might have provoked well-merited censure on our
national inconsistency. A-quei conducted us into a room,
where he was sitting with his two wives, handsomely attired,
looking from a window on the crowd assembled in the
street to witness the performances of a native juggler.
The latter, after haranguing the crowd with much anima-
tion in the Nanking dialect (as is usual with actors), pro-
ceeded to one part of the crowd, and took thence a child,
apparently five or six years old, who, with struggling re-
luctance, was led into the center of the circle. The man
then, with impassioned gestures, violently threw the child
on a wooden stool, and, placing him on his back, flourished
over him a large knife, the child all the time sobbing and
crying, as if from fright. Two or three older men from the
crowd approached with earnest remonstrances against the
threatened deed of violence. For a time he desisted; but
soon after returning to the child, who was still uttering
most pitiable cries, he placed him with his back upward,
and, notwithstanding the violent protests of the seniors, he
suddenly dashed the knife into the back of the child's neck,
which it appeared to enter till it had almost divided it from
the head, the blood meanwhile flowing copiously from the
wound, and streaming to the ground and over the hands
of the man. The struggles of the child grew more and
G


74
TASTE OF THE POPULACE.
more feeble, and at last altogether ceased. The man then
arose, leaving the knife firmly fixed in the child's neck.
Copper cash were now thrown liberally into the ring for
the benefit of the principal actors. These were collected
by assistants, all of them viewing the influx of the coins
with great delight, and bowing continually to the specta-
tors, and reiterating the words " To seay," "Many thanks."
After a time, the man proceeded toward the corpse, pro-
nounced a few words, took away the knife, and called
aloud to the child. Soon there appeared the signs of re-
turning animation. The stiffness of death gradually relax-
ed, and at last he stood up among the eager crowd, who
closed around him and bountifully rewarded him with cash.
The performance was evidently one which excited delight
in the by-standers, who, by their continued shouts, showed
their approbation of the acting. 


CHAPTER VI. UNSUCCESSFUL VOYAGE ALONG THE EASTERN COAST,
AND SECOND VISIT TO CANTON. Chinese Assault on three British Gentlemen at Canton—Remonstrance of
British Plenipotentiary—Rumored Disturbances at Amoy—Opportunity
of a Passage in a War-Steamer sent thither—General Character of the
Coast—Successive Points of Shore—Accident, and compulsory Return
under sail to Hong Kong—Voyage to Canton—Recent imperial Edict of
Toleration in favor of Christianity. During the month of February, my friend and host, the
colonial chaplain of Hong Kong, availed himself of the
opportunity afforded by my temporary stay to leave his
charge, on a visit to Canton. On the morning of his de-
parture from Canton he took a walk, in company with
Mr. Jackson, the vice-consul, and Mr. Martin, the colonial
treasurer, around the walls of the city. They set off for
their circumambulatory trip at daybreak, and had walked
along the full extent of the western wall, and were already
passing along the high ground on the northern side of the
city, when a company of bandit villagers, whom they saw
assembling, quickly overtook them with spears, swords, and
other implements of violence; and, after overpowering them
easily (as resistance seemed hopeless against their num-
bers), robbed them of their watches, money, and other val-
uables. After this, they had not proceeded far before an-
other party of robbers pounced upon them, and were com-
mencing to strip them of their garments, till discouraged
by others of the crowd. To complete the maltreatment,
large stones, weighing several pounds, were forcibly rolled
down from the watch-towers, by some Chinese on the city
walls, probably soldiers, and not without the connivance
of their superiors. Our friends, however, completed their


7fi REMONSTRANCE OF BRITISH PLENIPOTENTIARY. survey of the circuit of the wall. These circumstances,
joined to some recent local negotiations between the Brit-
ish and American consuls and the mandarins, relative to
the non-admission of foreigners within the city, became the
occasion of a special communication with the highest native
authorities. A subordinate official was deputed by the
mandarins to wait on the British consul, at whose residence
one of the injured party held a conversation with the afore-
said official, through an interpreter. To all his assevera-
tions the Chinaman replied by frequent yawnings, and by
protesting against the villainy and vice of the populace,
who, he said, were not civilized like the people in the
northern ports, and whose antipathy and violence against
foreigners the authorities were unable to restrain. It was
hinted to him that this might be a convenient excuse for
the Chinese authorities to allege, but was no good reason
why British subjects should be left exposed to bodily as-
sault; and that, if the Chinese governor declared his ina-
bility to protect British residents, it might be rendered im-
peratively necessary to station a body of British troops at
Canton, to overawe the populace and preserve peace. A few days after, the governor of Hong Kong wrote a
letter to Ke-Ying, the Chinese imperial commissioner,
couched in strong language, on the late indignity to British
subjects, demanding an investigation into the matter, and a
satisfactory settlement of the long-debated question of safe
entrance into the city. It was also deemed expedient to
send the "Vixen" war-steamer to Whampoa, to make a
demonstration, and to suggest the necessity of a speedy
effort to make reparation by some specific remedy against
the insolence of the mob. By the obliging kindness of the
captain in command, I obtained a passage on board the
"Vixen" for Whampoa, whence I intended to proceed in
a boat to Canton, to spend a few days with some friends,
from whom sickness had removed me rather suddenly to
Macao, in the last autumn. 


VOYAGE ALONG THE EASTERN COAST. 77 On my coming alongside the steamer, on Monday morn-
ing, March the 31st, the sentry on duty suggested to me
that I had better not have my luggage brought up the
ship's side, as the "Vixen" had received orders not to go
to Whampoa. Wishing to know the accuracy of this in-
formation, I went on board, and proceeded to the captain's
cabin, from whom I learned the following particulars. On
the preceding day the unexpected intelligence had been
received at Hong Kong of some disturbances at Amoy, and
the personal insecurity of the consul and British residents.
They had urgently requested that some ship-of-war might
be sent to protect them from the violence of the mob, who
had been encouraged to acts of pillage by the recent evac-
uation of the neighboring island of Koolang-soo by the
troops. The governor, after consultation with the senior
captain in command at Hong Kong, had decided, at a late
hour of the preceding evening, on altering the destination
of the "Vixen" to Amoy. The captain expressed his regret
at my disappointment, and kindly offered to give me a pass-
age to Amoy instead. As Amoy was one of the ports
which my instructions from the Church Missionary Society
had appointed me to visit, I gladly accepted the proposal;
and hastening on shore to make the necessary preparations,
I soon returned on board, and a little past eleven in the
forenoon we weighed anchor, and rapidly steamed away
out of the harbor. The rugged, precipitous shores which on either side
form the commodious shelter for the fleets of Britain in
these her newly-acquired possessions in the East, and
which completely land-lock the harbor, shutting out, with
the hurricanes that would desolate her shipping, the re-
freshing breezes which would diffuse salubrity and health
through the colony, were soon seen lowering in the hori-
zon, as we emerged through the Limun passage into the
open sea, studded with islets, all partaking of the same
rugged and desolate appearance. Here and there we per
G*


78
GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE COAST. ceived some fisherman's hut, perched on a little headland,
where a windlass was contrived to raise or lower the spacious nets, which, by means of movable stakes, extended
over the adjacent waters. The view was at times varied
by little patches of ground, reclaimed from the barren waste
as burial-places, where filial piety had reared the pecu-
liarly-shaped tombs of a semicircular or trefoil form, and
where sacrificial honors were wont to be paid to the shades
of departed ancestors. In other parts, a naked, unadorned
tablet of stone, inscribed with a few characters, told the
more humble condition of the deceased. A few native
villages, with fishing-boats at anchor, were all the variety
that marked the successive points of coast which we pass-
ed. Sailing in a southeast direction, we doubled the south-
ern headland of the little island of Tamtoo; and passing
through the channel, commonly called the Ta-thong-mun,
we steered in the direction of east by north, at a distance
varying from four to sixteen miles from the shore. Where-
ever the eye extended, the same monotony of aspect, both
on shore and on the sea, presented itself. The land formed
one succession of rocky cliffs, with occasional flats of sand
of inconsiderable extent, where not a vestige of vegetation
relieved the uninviting barrenness of the soil. On the wide
deep, fleets of fishing boats, of one uniform size and ap-
pearance, met the eye, nothing daunted by the strength of
the breeze from venturing many miles away from the shore.
Successively we passed Wochow Island, Nine Pins Rock,
and, at a greater distance, the various creeks which indent
the coast, Mirs Bay, Ty-pung Bay, and Tysan Bay, till
the setting sun left us to pursue our track over the watery
main, with no other variety than that of some venturous
fisherman overtaken by darkness, and crossing our course
in his frail craft. The next morning we beheld a line of coast partaking
of the same general features as that of the preceding day,
except that the hills were less lofty and precipitous, and 


ACCIDENT TO THE STEAMER. 79 seemed to retire some distance from the shore. Especially
to the east of Cap-chesan, we perceived a marked alteration
in the appearance of the land bordering close on the sea.
A flat country, more or less extended, seemed to intervene
between the beach and the hills rising dimly in the distance;
while an immense sand stretched along the shore, and re-
ceived the dashing surge. The thousands of boats, which
studded the sea for many miles, here began to partake of a
different form, the sails being square, instead of the oblique
sails farther south. The men, also, generally wore the dark
turban, which marked them as belonging to the hardy and
enterprising race of the Fokeen province. Some of them,
however, were diligently plying their oars, destitute of
clothing of every kind. We had passed Breaker's Point
and Ma-urh Point, and were already near the Lamocks,
and within sight of Namoa Island in the distance—the
extreme northeast boundary of the Canton province, where
it joins to Fokeen—when I felt an unusual sensation, which
led me from my cabin to the deck, where I found the offi-
cers and crew assembled, and I received the disappointing
intelligence that an accident had happened to the machin-
ery. The engine was completely disabled, and our only
alternative was to change our course to the southwest, and
to sail under canvas before the wind, which was blowing
strong, on our return to Hong Kong. Although within
ninety miles of Amoy, we endeavored to make the best of
our disappointment, and pleasantly sailed along with a
favorable breeze, returning by precisely the same course.
During the next night another casualty befell us. A poor
native fishing crew, probably asleep in their boat, were run
down by our vessel with such force as to carry away her
mast and sails. Immediately after this disaster they began
to blow a horn, to beat gongs, and to burn flakes of idol-
paper, which they scattered abroad to propitiate the divini-
ties of the deep. As one or two other boats were close
by, ready to render assistance to the sinking boat, and to


80
RETURN TO HONG KONG.
save the crew, we pursued our course with the damage of
our jib-boom, which was broken asunder by the violence
of the concussion, and our starboard paddle-wheel injured
by the fishing-nets becoming entangled with it. At noon,
on Wednesday, April 2d, after about forty-eight hours'
absence, we slowly sailed into harbor, and came to anchor
off the town. I returned from our cruise of 400 miles,
greatly invigorated by the trip. My friends were surprised
to see me so soon after my departure, till an explanation removed the whole mystery. In the mean time, intelligence
had reached Hong Kong that the alarm at Amoy had been
premature, and the disturbances only temporary; and thus
no inconvenience or danger was likely to ensue from our
having returned to Hong Kong. The "Medusa" war-
steamer was at Amoy, and tranquillity had been restored. The next day, April 3d, I carried out my former plan of
visiting Canton, and accordingly set out in the evening in a
passage-boat, with two Europeans and some'Lascars as
fellow-passengers. We arrived at Whampoa the next af-
ternoon, where our Chinese steersman got into trouble.
As he approached the ship on board of which he was to
discharge the Lascar passengers, he steered the boat so
near that our mast earned away a spar from the ship's rig-
ging, which came down about our heads, to our personal
jeopardy. The consequence was, that the head man of our
crew was made a prisoner, and safely lodged on board the
ship till he should make good the damage. Long and im-
passioned arguments passed between the several members
of our crew and the English captain. At last the matter
was so far compromised as to enable us, after half an hour's
detention, to proceed on our voyage, by the captain taking
the board inscribed with the boat's number and license,
which he held as security for payment of the estimated cost
of repair. This mishap cast a damp on the spirits of the
crew, which, however, was slightly dissipated by the inti-
mation that some of us intended to give them a small sum 


VISIT TO CANTON. 81 toward their loss. Our servants during the voyage engaged
in gambling with such eagerness, that it was only by a
resolute severity of tone that we could get the slightest
attention paid to our wants. The latter part of the voyage
was tedious, but the scenery, about sunset, was very pleas-
ing. We slowly passed along the thousands of boats and
junks which lay in the crowded river, and at 9 p.m. came to
anchor off the foreign factories of Canton. The first intelligence I received at Canton, bearing on
the missionary work, was a rumored edict of toleration
of the Christian religion by the imperial government.
Application had been made to Powtinqua to ascertain the
truth of this report. He returned an evasive reply, and
affected to be ignorant of any ground for such a rumor,
except the known intention of the emperor no longer to
enforce the old penal laws against the professors of "the
religion of the Lord of Heaven," the term employed by the
Jesuits in former times to designate the Christian religion. Very soon after my arrival in Canton, however, more
definite information on the subject was obtained by the
transmission, from some missionaries at Shanghai, of a
translation of a public Chinese document, which had been
issued by the authorities in those parts. It was in the form
of a memorial of Ke-Ying to the imperial throne, petition-
ing for the full toleration of Catholic converts, and contain-
ing, also, the rescript of the vermilion pencil, granting the
subject of the memorial. A translation is here subjoined
of this important document, which, in some parts, will per-
haps remind the reader of the celebrated epistle of the
younger Pliny to his imperial master, Trajan. Scarcely
200 years had elapsed after Pliny's letter before the ban-
ners of the cross waved from the turrets of the imperial
city. May a similar result follow in China!"Ke-Ying, high imperial commissioner, and governor-general
of the 'Two Kwang,' respectfully addresses the throne, for the 


82 IMPERIAL EDICT OF RELIGIOUS TOLERATION. purpose of presenting a memorial. He finds, on examination,
that the religion of the 'Lord of Heaven' is that which all the
western nations adore and receive; that its object is principally
to admonish to good, and to condemn evil; that, therefore, from
the time when it was introduced into China, during the previous
Ming dynasty, it had hitherto not been prohibited; that, subse-
quently, because some of those who practiced the religion took
advantage of that religion to do wickedly, even to the seducing
and defiling of men's wives and daughters, and the using a cheat
to take out the pupils of sick men's eyes, the government did then
search out and punish them, of which there is record; that in
the reign of Kea-king a special clause was for the first time laid
down, separately providing for the punishment thereof; and that,
therefore, the prohibition was originally directed against those
Chinese who made a pretext of the religion to do evil; but it was
by no means directed at that religion worshiped and received by
all the western nations. Now, the request of the French com-
missioner, La Grene, regarding the point that those Chinese
who practice this religion, and do well, be exempted from crim-
inality, seems as if it could be carried into effect. He must,
therefore, request that, as regards all who hereafter learn and
practice the religion of the Lord of Heaven, no matter whether
they be Central or Outside people, and who do not cause disturb-
ances or do wickedly, he may respectfully crave the celestial
favor, permitting to and conferring on them an exemption from
criminality; and should there be any seducing ordefiling of men's
wives and daughters, or using of craft to take out the pupils of
sick men's eyes, or any other crimes otherwise offending the
laws, they shall, as before, be punished according to the estab-
lished laws. With respect to those individuals of the French,
and all other Western nations who practice the religion, let them,
accordingly, be permitted to build halls for worship at the five
ports of commercial intercourse, and they must not presume to
enter into the interior to disseminate that religion. Should they
act in opposition to, or turn their backs upon, the treaties, over-
step the boundaries, and act irregularly, the local officers will, as
soon as they seize them, forthwith send them to the consuls
of the several nations to restrain and punish them; but death
must not be inflicted on the spot, in order to evince a cherishing


COPY OF THE EDICT.
83
and kind disposition. Thus, peradventure, the good and the
vile will not be intermixed, and the laws of kindness will mani-
fest their equitable course. This request regarding those who
practice the religion, and do well, being exempted from punish-
ment, it is his duty to present to the throne in a respectful me-
morial, and he humbly craves his Imperial Majesty graciously
to assent and grant that it may be carried into effect. A respect-
ful memorial. 


CHAPTER VII. REAL EXTENT OF MISSIONARY OPENINGS AT CANTON. Projected Missionary Services at the "Ningpo Exchange"—Alarm of the
superintending Officers—Friendliness of the better Classes—Defective
Courage of native Preachers—Riotous Interruption of a religious Ser-
vice by a Chinese Mob—Distribution of Tracts—Invitation by a petty
Mandarin to accompany him into the City; his subsequent Fright at the
Proposal being acceded to—Ineffectual Attempts to enter the City Gate. April 5th.—On the day after my arrival at Canton I vis-
ited two American missionaries, who had lately removed
their missionary establishment from Hong Kong, on account
of the disadvantages which, after due experience, they found
to attach to that peculiar station, and had transferred the
scene of their operations to Canton, in the hope of finding
a fairer scope for their exertion. Many of their friends re-
gretted and censured this step. They now resided in a
hong close to the foreign factories, expecting, at no distant
period, to effect a removal more into the heart of the Chi-
nese population. As they had only arrived two days pre-
viously, their plans were not yet matured. They had, how-
ever, at least planned their operations for the following day,
the Sabbath, on a bold and commendable scale. At half-
past ten o'clock a.m. they were to hold a religious service,
and to address the Chinese at a large hall, called the
"Ningpo Exchange," the rendezvous of the native mer-
chants from Ningpo, assisted by the native preachers, Yong
and Mun. At the same hour, Wong, Lei, and Hong were
to hold a similar assemblage at the " Chinchew Exchange,"
a few streets farther off; while Luh, Yow, and Tat were
also to attend, for the same purpose, at a place called the
Shong-kow-poo. My two friends accompanied me on a
walk into the neighboring streets, more especially directing 


NINGPO EXCHANGE THE SUPERINTENDENTS. 85
our visit to the scene of their intended missionary work on
the next day. The Ningpo Exchange was the best native
building that I had yet seen in Canton, and had rather an
extended range of halls and spacious rooms, on which there
had evidently been, in past times, a considerable outlay of
expense, as its elaborately-carved pillars, its richly-gilt in-
scriptions, the beauty and size of the idols, and the substan-
tial and elegant nature of the ornaments and furniture gen-
erally served to indicate. We made a personal survey of
the different rooms, my companions at intervals giving ut-
terance to the thoughts passing through their minds, and
the desires uppermost in their hearts. As we wandered from
place to place, through the numerous courts and halls, a knot
of about half a dozen officers or attendants of the institution
gathered around us, and received some of the Christian
tracts, which were placed in different parts of the building.
One of my friends soon entered into conversation, explain-
ing the nature of the doctrines, the object of our errand, and
the proposed services for the next day. This last topic
gave rise to a lengthened discussion, during which it became
apparent that they had been somewhat sanguine and pre-
mature in concluding that, in their previous visits, they had
secured definite and explicit permission of the use of the
building for the purposes contemplated by them. The
Chinese demurred to the proposal, declaring that they were
only stewards, and not the proprietors; that the building
was not designed for such objects; and, in short, giving
plain proof of the fear they entertained of being embroiled
in some difficulty by connection with foreigners. One
of my companions endeavored to allay their fears, and to
prove the excellence of Christian doctrines, and the disin-
terestedness of his motives. My boy Afat joined with much
earnestness in the debate, and addressed several remarks to
his countrymen, explanatory of the objects and customs of
foreigners. Leaving this little assemblage to ruminate on
the words addressed to them, we retired to a higher room,
H


86 CONVERSATION WITH A SHOPKEEPER. overlooking the court below, where we sat down to recruit
our strength, and to discuss the prospects of the next day.
While the Chinese below were engaged in discussing the
strange proceedings of the foreigners, we tried to excite
our spirits to thankful adoration of the Triune God for our
own participations in the blessings of the Gospel. We left
amid the polite attentions of our new acquaintances, and
directed our steps to a neighboring street, occasionally
distributing tracts, wherever we had reason to hope that
they would receive an attentive perusal. In one shop we
remained for some time with the inmates, who evinced
much interest in the books. The owner of the shop was
an aged man, who seemed, in his advanced state of life, to
have relinquished the care and management of his affairs
to his nephew, a middle-aged man of pleasing manners and
intelligence. The latter made many inquiries, and listened
with attention, as the principal doctrines of Christianity
were explained to him. He said he had not heard for ten
thousand years such wonderful doctrines. When the fall
of man, and the necessity of repentance and a new heart
were insisted on, he eagerly inquired whether to have an
idol-altar was a sin. In reply, he was informed that God
had forbidden idolatry, and willed that those who worship
Him should worship Him in spirit and in truth. He point-
ed to a little recess in a room above, where he could re-
tire to pray alone. His heart (he said) wished to believe,
but could not fully comprehend the doctrines. In the
course of the subsequent dialogue, he said he had a son
and a daughter; whereupon he was reminded that, accord-
ing to Chinese principles, this was held to be a rich por-
tion of blessedness. To this he assented with hesitation,
saying that he had not much money. He was reminded
that the favor of God and the knowledge of truth were a
better possession than money. To the application to him-
self to the truth of the universality of human depravity he
objected strongly, affirming that he had a good heart. Af-


HIS QUESTIONS.
87
ter some further conversation on the wickedness of sinful
desires, and an acknowledgment of his having never repent-
ed of idol-worship, he at last confessed that his heart was a
little wicked. The old uncle, some time before, had taken
umbrage at a reference to himself, and removed to the other
end of the apartment. He seemed, however, to regain his
composure, as at our departure he patiently listened to
some advice personally addressed to him, admonishing him
of his gray hairs, and bade us a friendly farewell. The
nephew alluded to some previous conversation with a med-
ical missionary in Canton. On this occasion, when one of
my friends stated the objects for which we came to China
as missionaries, he quickly remarked that we must have a
good deal of money to enable us to leave our native land and
come to so distant a country. He was informed that we
were not rich men, but had come thither in obedience to
the command of our Lord, Go and teach all nations. Here
Afat again became eloquent in his apology for missionaries,
and explanation of their errand, saying that they did not
come to get money, but to teach the Chinese " ancient doc-
trine." The nephew again inquired whether we were
Americans or English. He was told that two of our num-
ber were Americans, and the third an Englishman; but
that, though belonging to different countries, we were
closely united to each other by Christian fellowship. He
assented with the remark that " discipleship makes all na-
tions one." We left him with an invitation to attend the
service at the Ningpo Exchange on the next day, and to
call at my friend's house, whenever interest or curiosity might
prompt him. These attempts of my two friends were preparatory only
to carrying out their plan of hiring a house, as a mission
chapel and residence, in some distant part of the suburbs,
where they hoped to pursue a bold and systematic course
of action, and to hold religious meetings every evening, both
outside and inside the city, by means of their native preach-


88 OBSTACLES TO HOLDING PUBLIC SERVICES. ers. The result of such an experiment was awaited with
interest by the friends of the missionary work, though there
were not wanting those who foretold danger from the at-
tempt. In particular, the missionary brother with whom I
was staying expressed great apprehensions of the conse-
quences, saying that he had positive knowledge of the
anxious suspicions of the authorities, and the dangerous
malignity of the mob. He predicted a disturbance as sure
to result from the attempt, and a probable hinderance and
shock to the missionary work generally, which it might cost
many years of cautious action to remove. The sequel proved that both the sanguine hopes of the
one party and the cautious timidity of the other were
somewhat excessive. While visits might be made to any
part of the suburbs by a missionary able to speak with the
people in their own tongue—while conversation with them
might be carried on at their own houses without restraint—
while tracts might be distributed from house to house, and
their contents explained—yet it was found that no public
service of any kind could be undertaken, except at the
missionary's own residence among the foreign factories,
and consequently at a distance from the Chinese popula-
tion. Individual Chinese were willing to come to the mis-
sionaries for private conversation, and a few also to attend
the newly-instituted services. But at the Ningpo Exchange,
and the other public localities to which allusion has been
made, no public service could be held beyond an irregular
dialogue with about twenty or thirty persons, who might
gather round the missionary and propose questions. The
native preachers also showed great cowardice on finding
that missionary topics were unpopular among the people,
as savoring of intercourse with foreigners. Being men
generally of limited education, and very little knowledge
and zeal, they became easily frightened, and only ventured
to give away a few tracts. As to their labors within the
city, there was only their own account to receive, no for-


TURBULENCE OF THE PO'lLACE.
89
eigner being permitted to enter. Some time later, a house,
after many obstacles, arising from the hesitation of the land-
lord, was rented by the two missionaries, and was in course
of preparation for a chapel and residence, being situated
at some distance from the foreign factories. The people
of the neighborhood soon, however, raised an outcry at the
prospect of a "foreign demon" coming to reside among
them in defiance of Chinese custom; and so serious was
the disturbance as to render the interference of the Ameri-
can consul necessary. At the period of one year afterward
the missionaries were still residing and carrying on their
operations on a small scale among the foreign hongs. An
English missionary, also, who made the same laudable at-
tempt, met with the same serious difficulties. The Chi-
nese mob broke into the house, which he had fitted up
as a chapel, in the eastern suburbs, while Leang Afa was
preaching, and raised a riot, breaking benches and stools,
and throwing Afa into great alarm. A more detailed notice has been given of these proceed-
ings, as showing the real nature and amount of facilities
for public missionary operations at Canton. At the present
time they are reduced, by the arrogant lawlessness of the
populace, within small limits. But, on the other hand, a
boundless field lies before the missionary laborer for preach-
ing the Gospel from house to house, amid a population of
whom the better classes are intelligent, friendly, and in-
quiring, and from among whom individuals may be led,
by a discreet and respectful demeanor, to make private
visits to the abode of missionaries. In no part of the
world are politeness of manner, and an attention to the
little refinements and delicate sensibilities of civilized life,
on the part of missionaries, more necessary to secure the
disposition of the people toward the all-important message
which they bring. How far these conclusions are authorized by facts of
daily occurrence the reader will have his own opportuni-
ty


90
SEIZURE OF BOOKS BY A CROWD. ties of judging in the following journal of my intercourse
with the people in the suburbs and in the Missionary Hos
pital. April 7th.—Early this morning I set out on a visit to the
streets contiguous to the western wall of the city, accom-
panied by my boy, Afat, who carried some books for me
in a handkerchief, and acted as interpreter in any difficulty
which arose. Having purchased a map of the city and
suburbs, depicted on a fan, I was enabled to lead the way
with tolerable accuracy into the desired quarter. Afat
showed many signs of timidity before he set out with me,
saying that if he carried the books he should be appre-
hended by the mandarins, and forfeit his queue, which, in
the eye of a Chinaman, is tantamount to outlawry. Hav-
ing reason to suspect his indolence rather than his fears, I
was unwilling to lose his services. He followed me at a
little distance, and assisted me in purchasing some articles
that I needed. In a few shops which I visited I distributed
some of the books, reserving the greater part of them to
be disposed of at a greater distance from the residence of
foreigners, where Christian publications were less likely to
be known. Desirous of relieving Afat from embarrass-
ment, I took some tracts from him to carry myself, so as
not to have recourse to him in any public spot. One or
two Chinese approached me with an earnest request to
obtain a book, which I accordingly gave. This attracted
others, and no sooner did I inadvertently turn to my boy
to take from his bundle two or three tracts, than a crowd
of outstretched hands was soon gathered around us, and
the clamor and assemblage became so great that the way
was literally blocked up. With much difficulty I extrica-
ted myself from the rapidly-increasing throng, deeming it
prudent to turn back, and directing Afat to that effect,
whom, as I passed, I beheld squeezed to the wall by the
mass of eager applicants, and indicating by a flood of tears
his sense of danger. The seventy tracts of large size which 


INVITATION BY A MANDARIN.
91
I had selected for the day's distribution were thus unex-
pectedly taken by force; and it was to his no small com-
fort that I intimated to Afat, amid his unequivocal expres-
sions of thankfulness, that I would not again make a similar
request for his services as book-carrier. Though only six-
teen years of age, he is a sensible lad, and his sympathies
are evidently enlisted in favor of missionaries. He ac-
knowledges the folly of idolatry, and that, too, in no very
dubious terms. And yet, though intellectually convinced
of the superiority of the Christian religion, the apathetic
indifference to every thing but secular interests, so preva-
lent among the Chinese, disposes him, like many other
youths who have been brought within the influence of the
missionaries, to pursue the beaten track of popular error
in preference to the invidious appearance of abandoning
the customs of their ancestors. Returning to the Missionary Hospital, I was present at
the admission of new patients, which usually takes place on
this day of the week (Monday). It afforded me pleasure to
find that a more decidedly missionary character had been
given to the institution since my last visit to Canton in the
preceding year. A number of Christian books were placed
on a table, from which the patients were invited to help
themselves. It was gratifying to perceive, even in the ab-
sence of higher motives, the curiosity which prompted the
majority to take the books, and retire to different parts of
the room to read in quietude. A Christian almanac in
Chinese, combining, with an exhibition of evangelical doc-
trine, a general view of the statistics, sciences, geography,
and power of western nations, was very acceptable to them.
Among other acquaintances which I here formed, was that
of an officer in the employ of the Kwang-chow-foo, a native
of Chin-keang-foo, in Keangsoo province, a city situated
west of Nanking, and the last place taken by assault by the
British army. He appeared to be a man of intelligence,
and communicated to me the relative geographical position 


92 the mandarin's subsequent fears.
of the principal cities in those parts, which I found to
accord very accurately with my own map. On my hinting
to him the pleasure I should feel in accompanying him
from the hospital on his return into the city, he assented to
the plan, and even pressed me to give him the honor of my
company to his own house. This I regarded, in the first
instance, as Chinese politeness, and could hardly induce
myself to give him credit for sincerity. As, however, he
was a northern man, and might therefore, in a measure, be
free from the strong anti-European feeling of the south,
and as he was, moreover, about to depart in two days on his return to his native city, Dr. Parker agreed with me in
the conclusion that he possibly might be sincere, and pressed
me not to lose the opportunity of entering the city with
such a protector. When the officer was about to leave
the hospital, he again politely reminded me of the proposed
visit with him, and inquired if I were willing to carry it
into execution. We had already taken steps to secure a
sedan-chair, with bearers, in which it was arranged that I
should follow him into the city. But when the plan was
actually on the point of being put into practice, he suddenly
became alarmed, asking if I really meant to enter the city,
and deprecating my placing him in the awkward and diffi-
cult position of being the first Chinese to conduct a foreign-
er within the walls. We appealed to the fairness of a for-
eigner entering the city, and to the absurdity of the pro-
hibition; to which he assented, but said that such had been
the ancient custom, and that he could not dare to face the
danger of a tumult. The Chinese connected with the hos-
pital all agreed as to the reasonableness of free entrance,
but asserted, with much earnestness, the certainty of its
giving rise to a disturbance. Thus the matter ended, the
Chinaman, amid evident confusion, stammering forth his
apologies, and, after polite bowings, making his exit to his
sedan. In the evening I took a walk with Dr. Parker in tho


INEFFECTUAL ATTEMPTS TO ENTER THE CITY-GATE. 93 same direction as in the morning, extending our visit to the
Tai-ping-mun, or "Gate of Universal Peace," than which
name nothing could be less emblematic of the real character
of the neighboring populace. We were the object of in-
creasing curiosity as we approached nearer to this spot
unfrequented by foreigners. But as we advanced under
the ancient gateway, and showed, by our unchecked pace,
that we were for moving onward within the forbidden pre-
cincts of the city, the looks of displeasure which were
darted toward us by the crowd were soon exchanged for
shouts and gestures, which told us that we should not be
tolerated in such an act of sacrilege. Two or three low
fellows placed themselves close to Dr. Parker, who went
first, and making angry demonstrations of resistance, shout-
ed to him to stop. We remained under the gateway for
about five minutes, the storm of popular wrath growing
darker, and the assemblage rapidly increasing, till we
deemed it prudent, after surveying the remarkable old
building which forms the gateway, to turn down a narrow
street bordering on the outside of the city-wall, which fur-
nished us with many objects of curiosity, and at length
conducted us, at the distance of about a mile, to the foreign
factories. On a subsequent occasion I passed the Tai-ping-mun
alone; and, wishing again to test the possibility of entering
the city, walked on under the gateway, the Chinese shout-
ing to me from either side, of which I took no notice.
When I had reached the inner side of the arched gateway,
a Chinese officer, whom I conjectured, from his ability to
speak both the mandarin dialect and English, to be a spy
of the mandarins, stationed to prevent the entrance of for-
eigners, approached me with a request not to proceed. As
I appeared to hesitate about desisting, he put his hand on
my shoulder, and, with a good-humored smile, begged me
to return. I asked him why I might not proceed, as I was
a friend. He still persevered in requesting me to turn


94
RUMORED PROCLAMATION.
back, showing, however, amid all his polite remonstrances,
that his secret instructions were on no account to permit a
foreigner to enter, and that physical resistance would be
employed, if necessary, as a last resource. He seemed
very anxious to get me clear out of the way, speaking of a
mandarin-station inside the wall, which I should not be
allowed to pass. My ultimate compliance seemed to re-
lieve his mind, and I took my departure, after giving him a
selection of tracts, which he received with a polite ac-
knowledgment. The crowd, which had been gathering,
soon relaxed their scowling looks as they saw me turn
down the little by-street in the suburb. The British consul afterward informed me that the Chi-
nese authorities had recently promised to issue a proclama-
tion, granting free entrance into the city, and threatening to
punish any Chinese who should ill-treat a foreigner in the
attempt to enter. During the period of this visit to Canton,
I ascertained that no such proclamation had made its ap-
pearance, and that the matter was likely to continue a
fruitful source of diplomatic altercation. 


CHAPTER VIII. FURTHER INCIDENTS AT CANTON. Visit to Yun-tang, a Chinese Gentleman—Interest of Chinese in the Arts,
Inventions, and Astronomy of the West—Curiosity of a Priest—Native
Treatise on Astronomy—Chinese Ingenuity, and Ignorance of physical
Sciences — Execution- Ground — " Temple of Longevity" — Powtinqua's
Gardens—Howqua's suburban Dwelling—Neglected Education of Fe-
males in China—Annual Procession in honor of the Idol Shing-kea—
General Review of missionary Facilities at Canton. April 8th.—I walked about a mile through the suburbs,
in a western direction, to a street called the Shap-pat-poo,
to call on a Chinese gentleman named Yun-tang, the broth-
er-in-law of Powtinqua, and the sixth son of Le, a salt-
inspector of some celebrity and repute. His linguist was
careful to inform me, with due accuracy, of his master's
pedigree and importance at the Missionary Hospital on the
previous day, where Yun-tang gave me his card and address,
with the invitation to visit him. On entering his house, I
was conducted through three or four courts and anterooms
to an apartment of spacious dimensions, which looked into
a garden containing a little forest of shrubs and flowers,
placed in rows, rising gradually one above another on little
platforms. After the first ceremonials of etiquet were over, tea
and fruit were brought, with which we paid the usual com-
pliments. About twenty domestics stood in the outer rooms,
eagerly listening and gazing on me with evident curiosity,
as their master, the linguist, and myself were engaged to-
gether. Our anticipated conversation on the affairs of Out-
ward nations soon commenced, by Yun-tang's inquiring
whether I could furnish him with a diagram and explana-
tion of the manner in which foreigners could weave and
manufacture cloth by steam machinery, and whether I
had ever seen such a wonderful contrivance. I then pro-


96 INTEREST OF CHINESE IN EUROPEAN SCIENCE.
ceeded to dwell at some length on the multitude of pur-
poses to which the steam-engine could be applied, and
took the opportunity of alluding to the great loss which
the Chinese nation experienced in their isolation from for-
eign countries, especially intimating that perfect friendship
and cordiality could not exist till the foreigner should be
allowed to walk at large in all parts of the city, and the
way be opened for a reciprocal interchange of kind offices.
The observation I made of the willingness of foreigners to
come and teach them the arts and learning of western na-
tions drew forth the remark from him that an American at
Macao had already received instructions to build a steam-
ship for the Chinese, and that its arrival at Canton was
shortly expected. Yun-tang then went to the end of the
room, and brought two volumes of a native work on astron-
omy, abounding with diagrams and maps of the stars, which
he presented to me. He requested me to examine them,
and to ascertain whether they were correct and agreed
with our astronomical system; saying that if I would be
kind enough to send or bring him some book containing
our system of the stars, he should feel himself under great
obligations, delicately hinting at the presents with which he
would reward me. I promised to make an endeavor to
comply with his wishes, and proceeded to illustrate the de-
gree of perfection to which European science had advanced,
by the accuracy with which our navigators, after sailing
over ten thousand miles of ocean without seeing land, could
ascertain the ship's position. He asked the name of the in-
strument to which I alluded, and subsequently inquired the
price of a quadrant. He also mentioned that Dr. Morrison
had, in former times, showed him the motion of the solar
system, the globular form of the earth, and the remarkable
fact that the people on the under side did not fall off.
The statement of the objects of my mission to China, and
my proposed visit to the other consular ports, formed our
next topic of conversation, during which I tried to explain


CURIOSITY OF A PRIEST. 97 the motives and sanctions of the Gospel, the universal holi-
ness and peace which it inculcates, and the perfect happi-
ness which it is designed to convey. The linguist here en-
gaged in a long dialogue with Yun-tang, explaining that
my objects were not mercantile. Afterward he asked me
whether I had not come to China in the same capacity as
Dr. Morrison or Dr. Parker. The inquiry whether Yun-
tang would receive, in return for his present of books, some
pamphlets on the religion of foreigners, met with a ready
acquiescence. He surveyed them for two or three minutes,
and then eagerly inquired whether any part of the books
treated of astronomy; and on my replying in the negative,
evinced some disappointment, till I informed him they were
exclusively on religious subjects, and that I would send
him also a work on the stars, which explanation seemed
satisfactory, and he retained the books. The linguist, who
spoke English better than the ordinary class of native inter-
preters, and in a style far removed above that absurd jargon
denominated the Canton-English, frequently invited me to
repeat my visit whenever I could spare time. I once rose to
take my departure, but at their urgent request resumed my
seat for a little while longer; and at length left them, amid
an unsparing display of external etiquet, which could not
entirely dissipate the regret I felt at discovering in their
conversation, when the linguist explained my remarks, that
the term fan qeui (foreign demon) was once applied to me
amid this outward show of respect. This, together with
several similar instances, has led me to suspect that the
force of habit, in the use of this opprobious epithet, has al-
most deprived it of its literal offensiveness. On my return I met a priest from the large Budhist
monastery in Honan, who, seeing the two volumes pre-
sented to me by Yun-tang, requested me to give him one of
them, thinking they were on the foreigner's religion. He
was not satisfied till I had allowed him to read the title-
page of the books, that they were not a foreign produc-
I


»8
CHINESE INGENUITY.
tion; and with evident marks of pleasure he observed me
put my hand into my pocket, and take thence three books
similar to those which I had given to Yun-tang. I gave
them to him, with a request that he would also allow his
friends to read them, which he promised to do. On my return to Dr. Parker's house, I examined, with
his assistance, the native books on astronomy, and found
that they bore strong internal evidence of the European
principles introduced in the seventeenth century by the Jes-
uit missionaries. The diagrams, explaining the signs of
the zodiac, the ecliptic, the division into zones, and 180 de-
grees of latitude between each pole, proved the fact of
their having been written with the borrowed aid of foreign-
ers. The diagrams explaining, on meteorological princi-
ples, the cause of rain, appeared to be of more apocryphal
origin. Although mixed up with much of the absurdities
of the Chinese principles of creation, Yin and Yang, the
astronomy was generally correct as far as it went, and con-
tained the first principles of European science diluted
through the work. We were afterward engaged in listening to a native
teacher, deeply versed in Chinese literature, as he explained
to us the various little Chinese articles of curious device and
ingenious manufacture submitted to him. These consisted
of magnets differently adapted to the purposes of a mari-
ner's compass, a sun-dial, and a moon-dial, separately and
in combination. They were inscribed with tables and dia-
grams, containing directions for arranging the dials and
magnets for each purpose. I subsequently became possess-
ed of a specimen of their instruments, which, in the delica-
cy and beauty of its construction, and the ingenuity display-
ed in its adaptation to every-day use, would be well worthy
a nation more advanced in civilization. In appearance it
was a flat piece of ivory, small enough to be carried in the
waistcoat pocket, and adorned with beautifully-illuminated
characters directing the mode of use. On one side, a round
V


SUN-DIALS AND MOON-DIAL.-!.
9!»
dial, inscribed with the horary characters, and having a
gnomon in the center, is elevated to receive the sun's
shadow. The elevation is produced by little hinges from
the principal piece of ivory, and is regulated according to
the degree of the sun's declination at the different seasons,
by means of a small pin inserted into different holes below.
A needle, delicately balanced, shows the requisite position
of the time-piece for meeting the sun's rays. The same
dial is inscribed with the hours of the night, as well as of
the day; and, by means of its circular movement on a cen-
tral pivot, it is speedily arranged so as to become a moon-
dial, a projecting index at the hour of midnight being
brought to meet the figures marked on another circle out-
side, which answer to the age of the moon. Possessed of
such an instrument, a person might pursue his track over
the untrodden desert, and also might obtain, with tolerable
accuracy, the hour by day, and generally by night. The
ingenuity of the Chinese, in turning to the best account
their limited knowledge of the physical sciences, is very re-
markable, and excites a feeling of wonder, that, with such
ready powers of applying it to every-day life, they never-
theless have remained so long stationary in knowledge, es-
pecially when it is remembered that some of the most im-
portant of modern discoveries, which have effected such
social changes in the west, were known many ages previous-
ly among the Chinese. The teacher, in reply to my ques-
tion, hastily asserted that the knowledge of the magnet ex-
isted in China 5000 years ago. On my further inquiry, he
stated the discovery to have been cotemporaneous with the
Chow dynasty, i. e., a few centuries before the Christian
era, a period somewhat more moder n than his first asser-
tion. It often excites surprise that the native teachers who are
brought into connection with foreign students, and who en-
joy a fair reputation for knowledge and learning among
heir countrymen, are nevertheless so marvelously ignorant


100
EXECUTION-GROUND.
in all matters of geography, history, and physical science.
The reason of this is to be found in the fact, that the mind
of China is diverted into other channels of knowledge, often
abstruse, and more frequently puerile. Amid the poverty
of their physical sciences it is evident that a large amount
of talent is continually employed in the metaphysical sys-
tem of the Chinese, which rests on the base of imaginative
theory, destitute of reality and truth; and those powers
of mind, which, under more favorable circumstances, might
have grasped the sublimest objects, and pursued the most
noble investigations, with profit and success, are frittered
away and wasted on a system of puerile absurdity. Thus
the misemployed mind of China is building up a pyramid
of error, which it has cost ages to erect, and may require
ages to demolish, opposing great obstacles in the way of a
moral revolution in favor of Christian truth. The native work on astronomy given me by Yun-tang,
1 afterward found to have been written about twenty-four
years ago by a Chinese scholar, the friend of Gnun tsung-tuh,
who presided over the two Kwang provinces, Kwang-tung
(or Canton) and Kwang-se, about ten years ago, and at
whose instigation the work had been written. April 9th.—In the course of my rambles in the suburbs,
I landed from my boat at the Tai-ma-tow, about two miles
below the foreign factories, and on the north bank of the
river. It was difficult to feel quite secure from bodily assault
amid the crowds who would sometimes follow, shouting,
on every side, Jan-quei-lo (foreign demon), with astonishing
perseverance. Once or twice only has this popular ill-feel-
ing been manifested in any thing beyond words, when I
received a smart jerk from the elbow of some low fellows
while passing through the crowd, which would pretty well
conceal the individual offenders. In these distant parts of
the southern suburb, abutting on the river, I passed through
a number of by-lanes, which at last brought me to the
execution-ground, near the principal southern gate of the 


TEMPLE OP LONGEVITY.
10J
city. Here the stern majesty of Chinese law is vindicated
in the blood of the transgressor—here the convicted crim-
inal undergoes the last penalty of capital crime—and,
kneeling toward the imperial city of the north, dies in the
attitude of adoration of paternal rule. About twenty bare
skulls were lying on one side of this alley, while others
were secured in earthenware urns, the odor of which was
equally offensive with the sight. This Aceldama was liter-
ally a potter's field, as well as a field of blood, being used
as a ground for drying earthen pots, which were lying about
in every direction, covered with matting to protect them
from the elements. No executions had taken place for a
month, though they sometimes amount to twenty or thirty
at one time. As I was standing on the very spot where
the head of the malefactor is severed at one blow from the
body, and the lifeless corpse is made to attest the rigorous
severity of justice, a few Chinese gathered round me, and I
had an opportunity of distributing some tracts, without the
interruption of a crowd. The people of this district have
gained a bad character for turbulence, but on this occa-
sion were very quiet and peaceable. Later in the evening, I accompanied a missionary brother
on a visit to the celebrated "temple of longevity," situated
about a mile and a half to the northwest of the foreign fac-
tories iu the western suburb. We arrived at the time of
celebration of evening service, and remained surveying the
scene from without the door. About 100 or 150 priests
reside in this Budhist monastery, seventy of whom were
attending on this occasion in the principal temple. A great
part of their ceremonies consisted in standing with joined
palms, chanting, in a low, indistinct voice, the Palee sounds
in praise of Budh, accompanied with gongs, drums, and
bells. Sometimes they knelt, and at other times they
walked in procession, beating time to a strange kind of
tune, around the temple; at a corner of which a priest
was standing, giving to the other priests, as they passed, a
1*


102
powtinqua's gardens.
check or tally—a piece of wood—inscribed with the Chi-
nese character for "longevity," to attest the presence of
the individual according to stated rule. A few of the priests,
seeing we had some books, left the procession, sought and
obtained a copy, and then returned to join in the supersti-
tions, reserving the book for subsequent perusal. The com-
mendation bestowed by these priests on Christian doctrines
is generally to the effect that they are very good for us,
but not necessary for them—that Christianity may be the
best religion for foreigners, but Budhism is best for them-
selves. We ascended to the top of the temple, from which there
is a good view of the city inside the walls, with its two lofty
pagodas, rising from amid the rich and luxuriant foliage
of the trees interspersed below. The generality of the
priests were men of fierce and unprepossessing aspect.
We found one poor fellow in this lofty retreat, alone and
unconscious of our presence, bowing his head and paying
silent adoration before a large idol, and apparently spell-
bound under the influence of superstitious awe. We passed
through the numerous courts and lesser temples which
constitute this extensive and important establishment, with
the humble hope and prayer that the message of salvation
and the clear statement of Christian truth, contained in the
books this evening distributed among the numerous body
of priests, might receive the promised blessing from on
high, not going forth in vain. I observed a rosary sus-
pended from the neck of some of the priests. What a
characteristic similarity, even in some of its most detailed
particulars, between pagan idolatry and a corrupt form of
Christianity!April 11th.—I accompanied some friends on a visit to
the gardens of the celebrated Powtinqua, in a boat which
he sent for our use, with one of his attendants to act as our
guide. After proceeding about three miles in a northwest
direction, we left the broad river, and sailed up a canal on


CHINESE SUMMER-HOUSES.
103
our right for a few furlongs, to a summer-house, at which
we disembarked. On entering the gardens, we proceeded
to inspect the various attractions, passing over a number
of bridges, which intersect in different parts the continua-
tion of small lakes, of which this retreat is principally form-
ed. These were not calculated, in their present shallow,
muddy state, to add any beauty to the scene; but later in
the year, especially in the month of June, they are well
filled with water, and abound with lotuses, forming a beau-
tiful carpet-like expanse of vegetation. In different parts
• of the grounds were little summer-retreats, with furniture
and decorations suited to the affluent condition of the pro-
prietor. Splendid tablets, with large inscriptions, informed
the visitor of the persons of rank and influence with whom
the owner of these domains had contracted, by due forms,
a compact of friendship. Of these writings, one contained
the united names and emblems of Ke-Ying and Powtinqua.
In these little buildings the common events of the interior
of Chinese families were represented by some well-execu-
'ted images, performing various ridiculous scenes, in which
the ladies were the principal actors. In other parts there
were little curiosities, apparently the gift of some foreign
visitor; and among these, a model of a steamboat, with
engine and paddles, easily worked for the purpose of expla-
nation. Near this spot a public notice, in tolerably correct
English, informed us that the liberal proprietor wished his
foreign friends to give no douceur to any of the attendants;
but intimated the pleasure with which he would receive
any present of European manufacture, as a memorial of
their visit. Gold and silver pheasants, mandarin-ducks,
storks, peacocks, some deer, and other animals of rarity or
beauty, were placed in cages along the raised walks, which
led around and across the lakes. Beautiful trees, shrubs,
and parterres of flowers, added their portion of variety and
interest; while, again, lofty platforms, surmounted the roofs
of the numerous summer-houses, afforded a prospect into


104
HOWCIUa's SUBURBAN RESIDENCE.
the neighboring localities. On one of the latter eminences
I was joined by three Chinese, who told me they had come
hither, in compliance with annual custom, to perform the
usual rites at the tomb of their grandfather, buried in an
adjacent field. We returned from our trip by a different
route, to avoid the force of the unfavorable tide, passing for
two or three miles through canals, on either bank of which
little boarded huts were crowded together on rude piles ex-
tending into the water. The motley tenants of these substi-
tutes for houses, which formed to myriads of industrious
people their only shelter from the elements, assembled in groups as we passed along, to catch a glimpse of the lady
of our party, whom they saluted with long-continued
greetings of fan-quei-moo, "foreign devil woman." As wo
emerged from the canal into a wider part of the river, and
threaded our way among the lanes of boats of all sizes and
forms, peopled by the average population of many a Euro-
pean city, the general excitement and curiosity were mani-
fested in shouts from the congregated thousands. Mothers
ran forth with their infant offspring in their arms, shouting
the offensive epithet, and holding them forward to gaze on
the novel wonder of a barbarian woman. As the British
troops had landed at these parts, after capturing and de-
stroying the adjacent forts, and this portion of the suburbs
had suffered severely in the war, we had reason to be
thankful that curiosity, rather than malignity, was mani-
fested in the reception with which we were greeted. We soon after landed at a spacious mansion belonging
to the son and heir of the celebrated Howqua. The son
inherits many of the good qualities of his father. Among
other instances of his liberality and benevolence may be
mentioned the fact of his still continuing the grant of the
Missionary Hospital free of all rent, so nobly made, in the
first instance, by old Howqua. The mansion extended
close down to the water's edge, from which we passed up-
ward by a flight of stone stairs. It formed the suburb-



i





PROCESSION OF THE IDOL SHING-KEA. 107 dwelling of young Howqua, where one of his wives was
domiciled. The interior arrangements of this splendid
dwelling, and the number of domestics, we found to be on
a scale of great wealth and luxury. It had been rebuilt
since the late war. The roof of the first story afforded a
spacious terrace, laid out in flower-beds and walks, com-
municating with the apartments of the lady of the house.
The lady of our party was immediately conducted to a
large room above, where she was for some time engaged
in the interchange of salutations with the Chinese lady,
amid a company of attendants. On our departure the
Chinese lady, whom the scale of surrounding luxury point-
ed out as a favorite of her husband, watched us from above,
a female attendant standing before to screen her from view,
though at times she advanced, tittering and smiling, to catch
a free gaze on the foreigners. These poor women are at
present almost placed beyond the possibility of Christian
instruction. No missionary lady is as yet sufficiently versed
in the language to be able to place before their minds, at
the present stage of our intercourse, the truths of revela-
tion. The defective education of females in China leaves
their understanding untutored and unfurnished with knowl-
edge; and in very few cases are they able to read the
Christian books which their own sex among the missionary
body might possess opportunities of presenting to them. April 13th.—On this day the western suburbs were the
scene of much tumult and confusion from a procession,
which visited the various streets in succession, bearing
abroad the idols of one of the temples on this the annual
festival. The honors of the occasion were paid to the idol
Shing-kea, this being his birth-day, when, according to an-
nual custom, he is taken out for an airing in great pomp.
The procession was very long, and took eighteen minutes
in passing. It consisted of pipers, with drums and gongs
at certain intervals, and numerous bearers of the insignia
and gaudy ornaments of the temple. In different parts


108 GROUPS OF IDOLS MUSICIANS EQUESTRIANS.
boys and girls were seated on horseback, dressed out in
most grotesque and fantastic garb. At intervals some pros-
titutes, with painted faces, were seated on a portable plat-
form. Little bands of children, with juvenile musicians,
varied the scene, and persons with mandarin-caps and
other badges of office followed. The flags and banners
were in some parts very beautiful and costly, and were
inscribed with various devices, e.g., " The established su-
preme ruler of heaven," and other laudatory titles in honor
of the idol. As this anniversary jubilee was the occasion
of a general purgation of the temple, all the sacred furni-
ture was carried in procession, having been polished for
the purpose. The sooty smoke which had accumulated
round the idols from the burning of incense during the
year was carefully removed, and the god came forth on
this festive day in the freshness and brightness of renovated
youth. At length, after the musicians, the equestrians, the
women, the gayly-wrought banners, the maces of office,
and the mandarin attendants had passed onward, the large
square glass temples in miniature, which contained the
sacred emblems of deity, were carried along amid the
laughing and shouting of the collected mob. Two idols,
about six inches in height, surrounded on either side by a
number of lesser idols, sat enthroned within the first two
glass cases. In the last only one principal idol was to be
seen. In our evening walk we were on two or three oc-
casions unfortunate in crossing the course of the proces-
sion, thus meeting an obstruction to our intended excursion.
In some of the streets the more wealthy shopkeepers had a
feast regularly set out, consisting of fruits, cakes, and a
large roasted pig in the center. A mirror was suspended
at the extremity, with the inscription of the characters,
Shing-kea. As the procession passed curiosity was at its
height, but never was there an appearance of any thing
like reverence or awe. A few men, dressed out in the
peculiarly ugly accoutrements of public executioners, pre-


RECAPITULATION OF MISSIONARY FACILITIES. 109 ceded each group of idols, probably as a symbol of the
vindictive power of the supposed divinities over the objects
of their wrath. The expenses are levied on the streets
through which the idols are borne, the shopkeepers sub-
scribing toward reimbursing the public companies, who
provide, for hire, the gaudy decorations which are intend-
ed to grace the occasion. Along the whole series of
streets fragrant sticks of incense were lighted on the little
household altars in honor of the passing throng. A sufficient number of daily incidents will have been
noted down to convey a tolerably correct idea of the real
character and extent of the missionary field existing at
Canton. At the present time the Missionary Hospital is
the most hopeful agency for effecting good on an extensive
scale, by disposing the minds of rulers and people more
favorably toward foreign teachers. Although a mighty
change for the better has been brought about in the im-
proved tone and bearing of the native authorities since the
British treaty of peace, yet serious obstacles to public missionary labors and extensive missionary success must still
exist till the current of popular feeling shall have taken a
more favorable turn. It will hereafter be seen how com-
plete a contrast is presented to the turbulent hostility of
the local populace of Canton, in the more favorable oppor-
tunities of intercourse and the respectful, friendly demeanor
of the people in the northern ports of China. Without
anticipating the order of events further comparison can
not now be instituted. K


CHAPTER IX. DEPARTURE FOR SHANGHAI. Arrival of Bishop Boone at Hong Kong—Recent Acts of the Triennial Con-
vention of the American Protestant Episcopal Church—Embarkation for
Shanghai—Fellow-Passengers—Skill of Chinese Fishermen—Decoy-Fish
—Gale in Formosa Channel—Chusan Group—Entrance of River Yang-
tze-keang—Services on Board—Entrance of Woosung River—Chinese
Forts and Battery—British Opium Vessels—Landing at Village of Woo-
sung—Overland Journey in Chairs—Arrival at Shanghai. I left Canton on April 16th, and, after a voyage of two
days, arrived at Hong Kong on the 18th. Here I had to
remain for a longer period than I wished, on account of
the difficulty of procuring a vessel to the northern ports.
The increased delay was, however, amply compensated by
my having thereby the opportunity of forming the valuable
acquaintance and friendship of Dr. Boone, who about this
time returned to China from the United States of America,
where he had been recently consecrated the first Bishop
of the American Protestant Episcopal Church in China.
He arrived in the latter end of April, with his family, and
with two married clergymen, and some ladies attached to
the educational institutions contemplated in his mission.
Dr. Boone originally went to Batavia, as a missionary, in
1837, and subsequently removed to Amoy in 1842, from
which station ill health compelled his return to his native
land for a change of climate. The appointment of foreign
missionary bishops is a recent measure of the American
Episcopal Church, which, at the last general or triennial
convention, in 1844, attended by a representation of the
clergy and laity of each diocese, decided on the appoint-
ment of three missionary bishops, one of whom was conse-
crated for China. Although the American Church pro-
fesses to carry on its missions as a Church, yet the direc-


EMBARKATION FOB SHANGHAI.
Ill
tion of the missions practically devolves upon a committee
almost as independent as that of the Church Missionary
Society. The bishop is one of its paid missionaries, with a
stipend of 1500 dollars a-year. The directing board of
missions is composed of thirty elected members, lay and
clerical, with the bishops as ex-officio members. The
measure of consecrating a bishop specially for China was
adopted after correspondence with the Archbishop of Can-
terbury. Bishop Boone had abandoned the intention of
returning to his former station at Amoy, on account of the
unhealthiness of the climate, the difficulty of the dialect,
and the number of Protestant missionaries already settled
at that port. In accordance with the expressed preference
of the directing committee of missions, he determined on
consolidating his mission at Shanghai; the difficulty of ac-
quiring an entirely new dialect being counterbalanced, in
his estimation, by the greater advantages of this missionary
station. On account of the scantiness of information re-
specting the other northern cities, we had projected a visit
in company to the various ports along the coast. This
plan we were unable to cany into practice, from the great
difficulty of obtaining a passage in any European vessel.
The extreme personal risk and hazard of proceeding to
these ports in a Chinese junk, among a native crew of
strangers, did not seem to be warranted by the hope of
any corresponding advantages to the missionary work from
an immediate visit. After waiting another month, we avail-
ed ourselves of an opportunity of proceeding to Shanghai
together. Accordingly, on May 25th, 1845, we embarked on board
a British schooner, bound from Hong Kong to Shanghai,
accompanied by Mrs. Boone, her little boy, and two other
ladies connected with the mission. Our ship's company
consisted of the captain (who had his wife on board), two
mates, four English sailors, sixteen Lascars, chiefly from
Bombay, and a Negro from the Mozambique Channel.


112
DECOY-FISH.
Besides'these was the steward, a native of Madras, and a
bigoted Mohammedan; the bishop's servant, a native of
Batavia, of mixed Chinese and Malay descent; and a Chi-
nese boy, a native of Ningpo, whom I took as my servant,
partly to gain an acquaintance with the Ningpo dialect, and
also to carry him back to his home after two years' ab-
sence. Thus every quarter of the globe contributed its
quota to the diversity of dialect and color which, together
with the diversity of our religious belief, characterized our
assemblage. Weighing anchor, we slowly passed out of
the harbor of Victoria with a north wind, which obliged us
frequently to tack, till at length, after our emerging through
the Limun passage into a more open part of the sea, it
subsided into a calm, and we came to anchor on the east-
ern side of the island of Hong Kong, within a mile of the
small island of Tamtoo. The next morning we again
weighed anchor, but were compelled to take a southeast
course, and soon anchored off a little island a few miles
south of Hong Kong. For four or five days we had calms
and light head-winds, which lasted nearly the whole voy-
age. The heat was intense, the thermometer being 95 de-
grees in our close cabin; and my suffering in the head was
so acute, as to leave me at last almost in a state of insensi-
bility from debility and fever. We continued within sight
of the shore nearly the whole of the first ten days, by which
time we were off the island of Namoa. Here some of the
numerous fishing-boats visited our ship. One of them came
alongside, and very cleverly decoyed off a shoal of fish, that
were sporting around the vessel, by means of some artificial
fish, made of tin, drawn after their boat by a line attached
to its stern; one of the fishermen striking, or rather fanning
the water with a light mat of rushes. The whole shoal fol-
lowed the decoy-fish, and after they had proceeded about
200 yards, the nets were lowered from two boats, and the
crew of a third boat drew up the fish that were inclosed.
They then returned, and sold us a portion of the prize


FORMOSA CHANNEL CHUSAN ISLANDS. 113
justly due to their skill. As we sailed along the coast of
Fokeen, the same good-humored race of people was to be
seen at a short distance plying their vocation on the deep.
In every direction, as we surveyed the numerous crews
through the telescope, we saw the same good nature and
laughing countenances as they watched our approach, and
sometimes extended their hands in salutations. The Chi-
nese in one boat which approached us threw three large
fish into the ship, and on our inquiring the price they said
they wanted rice. However, before it could be procured,
they let go the rope which was thrown to them from our
vessel, and with good-humored looks conveyed to us the in-
timation that they meant to make us a present of them.
As we approached Chapel Island, and the bay which leads
to Amoy, we had boisterous weather for three days, during
one night of which it blew a gale, so that we could only
beat about from side to side in the Formosa Channel. At
one time we were about to anchor in a bay to the north of
Quemoy Island, in a small roadstead, where two junks had
already taken refuge; but the breakers indicating the
vicinity of a dangerous sand, our captain preferred again
directing our course into the mid-channel till daylight. At
length we got a strong southwest breeze for above twelve
hours, which, though gradually dying off, set us onward in
our course; and, after many delays, we sighted the Chusan
group of islands, a numerous cluster of granite rocks rising
in steep acclivities from the sea, and entirely destitute of
vegetation. Here and there we could descry some fisher-
man's temporary abode, piled up on a rugged headland;
but the whole aspect might well, in by-gone ages, have
combined with the exclusive character of the people to
banish from this iron-bound coast the adventurous wanderer
from foreign climes. The rich island of Chusan itself lay
to the west, and we could only catch a distant glimpse of
its range of hills. On June 11th we anchored near the Two
Brothers, and the next day endeavored to make a short
K*


OPIUM-VESSELS.
115
even five parts (out of ten) understood by them." We
soon discovered (what we were in some measure prepared
to expect) that the vulgar dialect was very dissimilar from
the mandarin dialect, and resembled, in this respect, the
general character of every local dialect in China, which is
a mere patois, unintelligible even in the distant parts of the
same province. The next morning we surveyed the place
more minutely, and discovered a long mud battery, which
also served the purpose of an embankment, running along
the northern shore, near to which we anchored. Within
range of the Chinese forts, and within gun-shot sound of a
mandarin station, were six vessels lying securely at anchor,
engaged in a contraband traffic, destructive to the morality
and injurious to the resources of the country; and yet no
effort of any kind was made by these officials to check the
evil. It is difficult to conceive that the government officers
are not either willing to reap the profits of bribery for con-
nivance, or, being raised above such an influence of cor-
ruption, are convinced of the futility of resisting the impor-
tation of a drug which panders to the sensuality of the
Chinese and to the avarice of the foreigner. Our own vessel, though not engaged in the opium-traffic,
carried 750 chests of opium as a part of her freight, which
were discharged on board one of the receiving-ships station-
ed at Woosung. My Chinese boy more than once on the
voyage asked me whether I knew there was opium on
board, and what I should say in reply to the Chinese, if,
after hearing me speak to them about Yay-soo taou le,
".Jesus's doctrines," they should ask why I had come in a
ship that brought opium, of which so many of his country-
men ate and perished. We went on board the receiving-
ship, and saw the process of preparing the inspissated juice
of the opium for test, previous to purchase. On opening
the chests, and clearing away a number of dry poppy-
leaves, an oblong dry cake, of a brown color, was taken
out, weighing four or five pounds. In the boxes of opium


116
DETAILS OF THE OPIUM-TRAFFIC. made up by the East India Company greater care is taken.
The balls are more round, and are placed in partitions,
each box containing forty, and being, moreover, carefully
cased in hides. The bargain is soon struck with the Chi-
nese broker, who incurs the risk of purchasing for the mc re
opulent Chinese opium-merchants at Shanghai and in the
neighborhood. A piece of opium is taken as a sample from
three separate balls, and prepared in three separate pots
for smoking, to test its freedom from adulteration. This
process took nearly half an hour, during which the opium
was mixed with water, and, after simmering and straining,
was kept boiling till, by evaporation, it was reduced to a
thick consistency, like treacle. Each box is sold for nearly
c£200; and we saw about 1500 taels of Sycee silver in large
lumps, of the shape of a shoe, weighed out and paid into
the iron chest of the ship. Shroffs from Canton province
were engaged in minutely examining each piece of silver
previous to its reception. Shroffs, opium-dealers, inter-
preters, and native accountants were closely standing to-
gether in different parts of the deck, which wore a busy and
painfully-animated appearance. A Fokeen opium-dealer,
on ascertaining the bishop's knowledge of his dialect, began
shaking him by the hand, and wanted to give him a gratu-
itous passage to Shanghai in his smuggling boat, which he
declined. As the neatly-packed cases of the East India
Company were opened to discharge their contents, the im-
pression was deepened in our minds that, in arguing against
the question of opium-smuggling with those who will not
rise to the Christian view of the subject, we have little pros-
pect of success, till the East India Company consent to
abandon the monopoly of the growth of the poppy, and our
government show the example of sacrificing the gains of the
opium-revenue on the altar of Christianity. About ten o'clock a.m. of the 16th we passed along the
point of the river where the village of Woosung is situated,
but had not proceeded more than a mile before we were


VILLAGE OF WOOSUNG.
117
again compelled to drop anchor; and the contrary wind,
added to the strength of the ebb-tide, left us no hope of
reaching Shanghai, twelve miles distant, till the next day.
The bishop and myself, therefore, determined on leaving
the ladies of our party, and procuring chairs, if possible, to
take us overland from Woosung to Shanghai, about nine
miles. Accordingly, we soon reached the village in a Chi-
nese fishing-boat, and, landing amid a crowd of Chinese
idlers, ascended the flight of steps which led to the village-
street above. The houses were of most primitive con-
struction, many of them being built on piles overhanging
the water, and indicating the lowest class of inhabitants.
A petty officer, who belonged to the village, soon began to
parley with the boatman, who was our guide. The latter
explained our object and wishes, stating that we were
come from the ship lying at anchor, and wanted to save
time by proceeding overland in chairs to the city. The
functionary was peculiarly bland and courteous in his man-
ners, assented to the reasonableness of our object, and, bow-
ing to us, disappeared in a hurried manner, leaving on our
minds the impression that he was gone to report to his
superior. We sat down under a kind of public tea-tavern,
where the villagers, old and young, were assembled, smok-
ing tobacco over their tea, and indulging in eager colloquy
over their cups. Our arrival increased the number; and
the adjustment of the sum to be paid for our conveyance
was a theme of good-humored excitement, during which
we threatened to return to the ship if they did not accede
to the sum proposed. We soon, however, came to terms.
Two bamboo chairs were put in order, with a slender
screen above and on the sides, to protect us from the rays
of the sun. Long poles were duly affixed on either side;
and, borne on the shoulders of two coolies each, with two
others to relieve in turn, we set out from the other side of
the stream, which at this point flows into the Woosung
river. The bishop led the way, and I followed, within


118 OVERLAND JOURNEY TO SHANGHAI. sound of each other's voice. Our course lay over a con-
tinuation of winding paths, rice-fields, green lanes, cotton-
fields, canals, bridges, and little rural homesteads, for three
hours. Our bearers were most garrulous, and were laugh-
ing and jesting the whole way, in spite of their fatigue.
Once or twice we got out to walk where the path was
dangerous and unsafe for our burden. The whole coun-
try bore the marks of rich fertility and cultivation; and the
peasantry, male and female, whom we passed, working in
the fields, seemed to be a peaceable and orderly class.
The women who were working in the fields were almost
universally cramped in their feet, and were very anxious
to catch a passing glimpse of us as we crossed their path.
Several buffaloes were working at the plough or harrow,
and one we observed turning a wheel, which pumped up a
stream of water from the canal below to irrigate the fields.
None of the houses indicated the condition of the inmates
as possessing more than the substantial necessaries of life;
while, on the other hand, no marks of abject poverty were
discernible. Our bearers stopped at a small tea-tavern on
our way, where we all refreshed ourselves with tea, and
cakes made from pulse. Some of the bridges were so
narrow, and the turnings so abrupt, that we sometimes
were in hazard of being whirled from our frail sedans into
the water, nearly twenty feet below. At length, when
about two miles from the city, we entered a village, where
we embarked on board a boat, and, proceeding down a
canal, emerged into the broad river again, and soon sailed
along the northern bank, where the new foreign houses
were in course of erection for the merchants. Landing at
one of the principal flights of stone steps, we again entered
our chairs, and were borne nearly two miles in a southern
direction through the city to the residence of an English
missionary, Dr. Lockhart, who kindly received me as his
guest. Here I found my dear brother M'Clatchie domi-
ciled, who received me with warm and affectionate kind-


ARRIVAL AT SHANGHAI. 119 ness. The evening was spent in visiting Mr. Medhurst's
family, with whom the bishop found a temporary home till
a house could be procured for his family, who arrived the
following day. As we passed along the narrow streets in
our sedans, on our arrival at the city, and during our sub-
sequent walk in the evening, I could not fail to contrast the
respect and immunity from annoyance here ceded to for-
eigners with the arrogant pride still predominant among
the Canton populace in the south. The ladies of our party
walked with us through the streets, with no other annoy-
ance than the curious gaze of the by-standers, who seldom
failed to restrain their curiosity within the bounds of the
strictest propriety and civility 


COMMERCIAL IMPORTANCE. 121 etables and fruits of various kinds are supplied in gradual
succession during the whole year. The temperature, how-
ever, is subject to extreme changes, the thermometer rising
above a hundred degrees in the hot season, and falling as
low as twenty-four degrees in the winter. The character
of the population is peaceable and industrious. They are
friendly and respectful to foreigners, though a mercenary
and avaricious spirit seems likely to infect them in their
dealings with Europeans, whose fancied wealth they deem
a legitimate source of unscrupulous gain to themselves.
The wants of the people are few and simple, and there-
fore easily supplied. The principal food, even of the more
affluent, is rice, the ravages of luxury not yet having sup-
planted the simple demands of nature. A great portion
of the city adjacent to the western gate consists of a suc-
cession of gardens, extending two or three furlongs inside
the city wall. The opposite side of the river consists of
fields, as yet unoccupied by buildings. A line of liver-
frontage, extending half a mile, and occupying a part of
the suburbs on the northeast side of the city, from which it
is distant a quarter of a mile, has been granted as building
sites for the foreign merchants. The situation is good, the
air salubrious, and the locality convenient for the shipping.
Shanghai is situated in latitude 31° 24' N., and in longi-
tude 121° 32' E., on the bank of the Woosung river, at
the point of its confluence with the Hwang-poo, and is
distant about twelve miles from the Yang-tze-keang. The
population may be estimated at 200,000. The commercial importance of Shanghai can hardly be
overrated. As an entrepot for the commerce of Shantung
and Tartary on the north—as the outport of all the central
provinces of the empire—as the grand emporium for the
trade of Fokeen and Formosa from the south—as the port
and usual point of access to Soo-chow-foo, the metropolis
of fashion and native literature—as a rendezvous for the
trade of the Yang-tze-keang and Grand Canal, the main L


LOCAL AUTHORITIES. arteries of inland commerce—as connected with numerous
neighboring mercantile cities by the canals which divide
the surface of the country—and as the grand emporium
for the European and American trade in the north of China
—it assumes an importance of which its local size and lim-
ited population would seem at first glance to divest it. The
staple production of the neighborhood, which is principally
agricultural, is cotton, the manufacture of which furnishes
the occupation of weaving to large numbers of the inhab-
itants. Rice and wheat are also extensively cultivated.
There is a large export of tea, principally from Hoo-choo,
in Chekeang, 100 miles distant, also of silk from Hwui-
chow, in Gnan-hwui, and other places, 300 miles in the
interior; added to which, the fact of Europeans being
able to purchase tea, silks, and other native commodities
ten per cent, cheaper at Shanghai than at Canton, from the
diminution to the Chinese merchant of transit expenses,
seems likely to divert no inconsiderable portion of the for-
eign trade from the southern commercial capital to this
rapidly-increasing emporium of the north. The chief local magistrate is the taou-tai, who is the gov-
ernor of two foo and one chow, having altogether twenty-
two citing or walled cities under his jurisdiction. The sec-
ond mandarin in importance is the Jiai-fang, or director of
maritime affairs, who assumes the local goverment in the
absence of the taou-tai. Of the subordinate mandarins the
principal is the chee-hecn, who is at the head of the police
department, and possesses more circumscribed limits of au-
thority. Shanghai is situated in the province of Keang-soo,
which, together with the province of Gnan-hwui, is included
under the term Keang-nan, of which the chief city is Nan-
king. Keang-nan, together with the province of Keang-se,
forms the government of the same tsung-tuh, or governor-
general, the united provinces being comprised in the desig-
nation of the Leang-Keang, or "the Two Keang." The
taou-tai enjoys the reputation, among the consular officials,


POLICE REGULATIONS.
of being a man of honor, integrity, and kind feelings. The
residence of the British consul within the city, and the occa-
sional interchange of visits, seem to have produced a mu-
tual good understanding. The city suffered little, if any
damage during the disasters of the late war. It was cap-
tured by the British troops, but there was no destruction of
property or life to any considerable extent. The most of the
injury sustained was effected by the native rabble in their
eagerness for plunder. Consequently there is but little ex-
asperation of feeling, or disaffection to the British on that
account. The odious epithet, "quei tze" (demon) was at
first occasionally applied to foreigners; but the Chinese
authorities promptly discouraged the practice by a public
notice, threatening punishment of such offensive terms. The public buildings of any remarkable claims to atten-
tion are few, though there is here, as elsewhere, a fair pro-
portion of temples, which afford, in most cases, a temporary
lodging or hotel to the numerous immigrants and merchants
from other provinces. The heads of the native firms gen-
erally reside at Soo-chow, at the distance of from fifty to
eighty miles, leaving their brokers and clerks to transact
their local business. The number of extra-provincial men
temporarily resident at Shanghai, the suspicion and dis-
trust which the mandarins entertain toward these naval and
mercantile strangers from other provinces, and the positive
instances of the turbulent and lawless spirit of the Chin-
chew sailors from the rebellious province of Fokeen, have
naturally led to exclusive police regulations relative to non-
residence within the city wall. It is probably on this account that there was at first a
reluctance to let houses to foreigners within the city—a dif-
ficulty happily now removed by a favorable precedent.
The alarm also taken by the taou-tai at the aggressive la-
bors of the resident missionaries seems to have gradually
subsided, under the influence of more favorable considera-
tion, into a kind of negative permission, or acquiescence in 


124 ROMAN CATHOLIC SETTLEMENT. what, on principles of justice and benevolence, he felt it
impossible or inexpedient to check. In the city and neighborhood there are large numbers of
Roman Catholic professors of Christianity. The principal
settlement is at a place called King-kea-hong, about four
miles distant on the opposite side of the river, at which the
bishop resides. He is the titular bishop of Heliopolis, and
his diocese comprises the provinces of Keang-nan and
Shantung; to which it is said the province of Pi-che-le
(capital Peking) is about to be added, on account of the
events arising out of a dispute between the Pope and the
Portuguese of Macao. His diocese is computed to contain
about 60,000 Roman Catholics; and his pastoral address
to the Popish flocks, consequent on his discovering at
Soo-chow the document conferring religious toleration, was
so bold that the mandarins took umbrage, the tsung-tuh
saying that he himself had only two provinces under his
government, but that the bishop assumed three. Of the 6000 junks which annually bring down the grain
for the emperor from Tartary, many are manned by Ro-
man Catholic sailors, who have come frequently to hear
Mr. Medhurst preach, and through whom a missionary
might proceed to Tartary, as the people from Tartary and
Corea profess their desire of being permitted to hold inter-
course with foreigners. As a missionary station, Shanghai exceeds the three other
northern consular ports of Amoy, Foochow, and Ningpo in
two important particulars—-facility of access and connection
with the interior. In respect to the former, a continual in-
tercourse is likely to be maintained with Hong Kong and
Europe by means of the numerous shipping which frequent
the port—a considerable advantage in working the practi-
cal machinery of missions. In reference to the latter, if it should be the good pleas-
ure of God, who alone can, by His Holy Spirit, give potency
and life to the best-concerted missionary plans, to carry his


AVERAGES OP TEMPERATURE.
125
preached and written word to the hearts and consciences
of individuals among this pagan multitude, the important
bearings of a Protestant mission at Shanghai, with its com-
munity of native Christians and teachers, on the interior of
China, can hardly be conceived at their proper estimate.
Already have Christian books, like so many leaves from
the tree of life, found their way to Nanking, Soo-chow,
Chin-keang, and other important localities, and excited a
desire to know more of the doctrines they reveal. Already
14,500 cases of medical relief have tended to mitigate the
sufferings of our fellow-heirs of sin, and helped to diffuse
among the native community a respect for the religion of
the benevolent foreigner. I have been favored with the following averages of tem-
perature, kindly supplied by Dr. Lockhart from a register
kept in each month of the last year. The averages of June
extend only over the latter half of that month.
Gen. aver,
temp,
by day.
Gen. aver.
temp,
by night.
Greatest
GreatestIleal
by night.
Lowest
temp,
by day.
Lowest
temp,
bynight
1844.
heat
by day.
June
77
66
88
71
72
65
July
93
75
100
83
78
71
Aug.
89
77
97
81
85
75
Sept.
79
67
91
77
68
63
Oct.
74
60
85
67
59
41
Nov.
65
53
73
60
55
40
Dec.
49
36
64
49
35
26
1845.
Jan.
45
36
60
45
34
24
Feb.
45
37
62
47
36
30
March
53
43
80
64
41
32
April
64
51
75
65
47,
41
May
71
60
87
68
59
51


CHAPTER XI. INCIDENTS AT SHANGHAI. A Roman Catholic Ruin—Missionary Excursion into the Interior—Roman
Catholic Villagers — Preaching in heathen Temples — Visit to northern
Parts of the City — Triumphal Arch to a Christian Mandarin — The
"Ching-wang-meaou" — Newly-canonized Hero-Warrior — Caricature
Shops—Missionary Services—Trip round the City Walls—Visit to a Co-
rean Vessel—Romish Church in Corea—The "Hall of United Benevo-
lence"—" Foundling Hospital"—The "Hall of the Lord of Heaven"—
Visit from a Corean Sailor—Popish Mariolatry. Our time was taken up for two or three days in the ar-
rangements for Mr. M'Clatchie's removal into his newly-
rented house within the south gate of the city. The native
authorities secretly tried the influence of intimidation with
the Chinese landlord. The documents, however, had been
duly signed, and were in our possession; and Mr. M'Clat-
chie immediately removed his luggage, and slept his first
night of inauguration in his new abode. On June 19th we went about a mile into the country to
explore an old ruin which formerly belonged to the Ro-
man Catholic missionaries, and appeared to be about 150
years old. It lay in the midst of a beautiful and quiet re-
treat, with few houses near. An old man came out of an
adjoining dwelling, and conducted us into a dilapidated
building, apparently used at present as an old warehouse
or lumber-room. It bore the plainest marks of having
been a church, with a semicircular arch dividing the body
of the building from the chancel, where there was a hand-
somely-carved altar of stone, about four feet in height and
eight in breadth, surmounted by a horizontal slab about a
yard in depth. On the outer side was the inscription
I H S in large Roman characters, surmounted by a cross;
and the rest of the tablet was decorated with carved repre-


MISSIONARY EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR. 127
sentations of dragons, the sacred emblem of the Chinese
mythology. Near the entrance was an inscription against
the wall outside, to the memory of some Christian manda-
rin. On walking round to the other side of the building,
we beheld six grave-stones inscribed with the same Roman
letters, I H S, with crosses, and placed on the edge of a
large mound, which rose to the height of twelve feet, and
was covered with lilies, plants, and some dwarf-shrubs,
forming a beautiful object in the garden which surrounds
the ruin. Here ample proof existed, if any were needed,
that the Romanists, in former ages, not only had access
into the country, but also enjoyed a fair measure of tolera-
tion in their missionary work. Being desirous of ascertaining the nature and extent of
missionary facilities in the neighborhood of Shanghai, I
availed myself of the invitation of Mr. Medhurst to accom-
pany him on his usual weekly missionary excursion up the
river. About midnight we embarked in a covered boat, with
two other missionaries. We set off at this unseasonable
hour, in order to have as much time as possible before us
to bring our trip within a "day's journey," in accordance
with the consular arrangements on the subject of bounda-
ries. We slept on the seats on either side of our boat,
with a few mats below and a blanket over us. The mus-
quetoes were very troublesome, and we tried in vain to
expel these unwelcome intruders by filling the boat with
fumes of tobacco, which served only to increase our pre-
vious difficulty in obtaining rest. Toward daylight, as the
smarting irritation of their bites subsided, and their num-
bers gradually disappeared, we got a little sleep, and rose
somewhat refreshed to take our morning meal in the boat,
which was now nearly twenty miles up the river, in a south-
west direction from Shanghai. From this point we pro-
ceeded very slowly, till at last we steered up a kang, or
lesser stream, on our right; and after another hour's scull-


128
ROMAN CATHOLIC VILLAGERS.
ing we stopped at a small hamlet, the tide leaving our boat
without sufficient depth of water to proceed farther. We
landed amid about a hundred villagers, who quickly gath-
ered around us to receive books, which were distributed
to the most intelligent of their number. Mr. Medhurst
addressed them afterward for about ten minutes, and find-
ing that they were principally professors of the "teen choo
keaou," or Roman Catholic religion, dwelt on the more
prominent truths of the Incarnation and Atonement of
Christ, to which they assented. But on his subsequently
enlarging on the necessity of trusting in Christ alone as the
Savior, and the sinfulness of raising other mediators, such
as the Virgin Mary, who was only a sinful mortal like our-
selves, they appeared to be somewhat staggered, and looked
in his face, as if incredulous and distrustful of his remarks.
They brought a Popish publication of small size, commonly
called the Nanking Catechism, and, pointing to the charac-
ters Pehto-lo (Peter), asked if he could give them some
book about him. We were informed that three or four
European padres were in the habit of visiting the neighbor-
ing villages, and that at the distance of a mile from the next
large village which we visited, named Ma keaou, there was
a church, at which worship was performed. After walking
two miles over the fields to this village, and passing through
a long street with shops on either side, we entered the
temple of the tutelary deity of the place. Here, before the
large idol, in the principal hall, Mr. Medhurst stood and
preached for twenty minutes to about 200 people, who
were collected around us, and, being unaccustomed to such
public instruction, were rather noisy and boisterous in their
remarks. One Chinese, especially, hastened to take ad-
vantage of the concourse by hawking his ware and vending
some sweetmeats, beating together two pieces of wood to
draw attention to his part of the building. Returning to
the outer gate, Mr. Medhurst again took his station on a
bench, from which he addressed the crowd. When he had


PREACHING IN HEATHEN TEMPLES. 129
delivered about half of his address, a native brought him
some tea, which he stopped to drink amid the applause of
the crowd, and then resumed his instruction. At the close,
a man, very decently attired, approached, and, after cross-
ing himself on the head, arms, and breast, and placing his
hands together in an attitude of devotion, said that our doc-
trines were precisely the same as his, and that he was a
worshiper of Teen choo, the "lord of heaven." He pro-
ceeded to give information about the Roman Catholics of
the neighborhood publicly before the assemblage, without
the least indication of fear—a fact incompatible with the
supposition of their being exposed to any rigid surveillance
or dread of persecution. The padres (we were afterward
told) were accustomed to travel among them, and were ever
ready to come from any distance to administer the sacra-
ments of the Church, especially Extreme Unction, to the
dying. From this spot we walked to a temple at the dis-
tance of a mile, having a number of Budhist idols, which
were generally arranged in triads. Here the same inci-
dents again occurred, the people listening with much appa-
rent attention, and assenting to every truth propounded.
Pointing to the principal warrior-idol, Mr. Medhurst dwelt
on the folly and sin of worshiping such a senseless object
in the place of the one true God, and of bringing our wants
and distresses before such a misshapen block. They all
laughed, and assented to the truth of this remonstrance.
When asked why, then, they did not act differently, and
cease from such absurd practices, they laughed again, and
appeared ashamed of the superstition, though their good
humor was not in the slightest degree disturbed. Here we
had tea served to us, and the best seats hastily procured for
us. Near this point the boat had. with the rising tide, been
brought for us to embark, and we passed down the stream
on our return, about two p.m. From time to time the
people in the fields around ran toward us, leaving their
work, and shouting to us with a request to obtain a book, 


130 VISIT TO NORTHERN PARTS OP THE CITY.
which they were disappointed at not receiving. At last,
witnessing one Chinese very importunate, I fetched a copy
of Luke's Gospel for him. No sooner did he perceive it
than he addressed earnest entreaties to the boatmen to
steer nearer the shore, along the banks of which he had
been running to overtake us; and, watching my opportu-
nity, I folded up the book and threw it safely on the dry
bank. Before entering the broad river, we landed and dis-
tributed tracts at an oil-manufactory, where a number of
families were congregated. On the north bank of the river,
also, we landed and passed through a long village, named
Min Hong, where we had a large number of eager appli-
cants, who accompanied us to the boat to obtain books.
After a few unimportant adventures we arrived at Shang-
hai about eleven p.m., thus saving our legal time in the
matter of the boundary regulations. June 21st.—We went this evening to explore the north-
ern parts of the city. Entering by the smaller southern
gate, we pursued our way for a mile and a half through a
succession of populous streets and lanes, all partaking of
the same general features, and abounding with a greater
than usual number of tea-taverns, in which little companies,
varying from ten to thirty persons, were generally assem-
bled. For three or four copper cash—less than one far-
thing—the laboring people of the poorest class can enter
one of these establishments, and indulge in a liquor which
refreshes but does not intoxicate, while quiet harmony and
peaceful order seem to be universal among them. It was
a pleasure to contrast the crowded state of these tea-tav-
ems with the generally empty appearance of the few neigh-
boring Uew-fang or wine-shops. The only addition to the
tea was smoking tobacco, and their animated countenances
frequently bespoke the earnestness with which they were
debating over the table some question or event of the neigh-
borhood. As we passed the temple of the God of Fire—
the Pluto of the Chinese—the assembled crowd, and the 


TRIUMPHAL ARCH TO A CHRISTIAN MANDARIN. 131 sounds of musicians in the interior, indicated some festal
occasion in honor of the deity. Near this we passed under
a triumphal arch, erected to the memory of the celebrated
Seu, the father of Candida, both of whom bore a promi-
nent part in the events of the seventeeth century, the for-
mer being raised to the highest honors of the ttate, though
a Christian. His tomb outside the southern gate is cover-
ed with a rich crop of verdure, and has seven regularly-
planted trees, of gigantic growth. His posterity are partly
Christian and partly pagan. The latter have raised an
altar to his memory within the city, and still continue to
worship his image. Near the northern gate we visited a
temple, or rather a district of temples, denominated the
Ching-wang-meaou, the principal temple of the range
being dedicated to the presiding deity of the city. In this
temple there were several courts and fanes, decked out
with idols, some of which were of gigantic size and well-
executed formation. Around the sides were ranged a
large number of images, representing attendants on the
deity, and dressed out in an old attire, destitute of the Chi-
nese queue introduced by the Manchoos. The principal
idol was placed in a lurid, dismal part of the building,
where we could hardly catch a glimpse, amid the dimly-
burning lamps, of the countenance, upon which a more
than ordinary portion of artistic care seemed to have been
lavished. In an adjoining building was the image of a
celebrated military mandarin, commandant of the Woo-
sung forts, who fell in battle while resisting the British
troops when they took the forts by storm in the late war.
He had since been canonized, and a few days previously
solemn offerings had been made to his memory. Incense
and the general apparatus of idolatry were lying before
his image when we entered. The representation of this
unfortunate hero-warrior is said to be a very faithful like-
ness, and skillfully finished. Further on, the noise of pipes
and flutes, with stringed instruments, called our attention


132 NATIVE CARICATURES MISSIONARY SERVICES. to the dwelling of a shopkeeper, who was paying honor
to his idol by theatrical exhibitions, and a well-supplied
feast of sweetmeats and fruit. The performers were all
boys, who, to a certain irregular tune, were alternating
their parts in some pathetic romance of real life—at one
time imitating the sounds of grief, and at another time of
remonstrance and expostulation. Our entrance seemed
likely to interrupt, for a time, some of these juvenile musi-
cians and actors; but, after a little faltering hesitation, they
continued their animated chantings. In the shops several
caricatures were to be seen of the English, in military or
naval costume, with most grotesque figures, arranged by
the artist so as to bring down ridicule on foreigners. A
European lady was represented, in one of the caricature
drawings, in a very inelegant posture, evidently intended
to excite merriment at the expense of foreign manners.
A large, open space in this vicinity was covered with tem-
ples, some of which were situated on a small lake, and
were approached by bridges. The whole appearance was
very unique. On our return we found the city gates shut,
at eight p.m. On our raising a shout they were immediately opened; and, as we passed, the watchword was
promptly conveyed to the porter of the outer gate, who
also opened for us without any questions or delay. June 22d.—After the service at the British consulate, I
attended Mr. Medhurst's Chinese service, in a large lower
room in his own house. This being the day for the burial,
at Soo-chow, of the deceased wife of the che-heen, or
mayor of the city, many Chinese were kept away by the
theatrical exhibitions which prevailed in the city. The
sacred festival, also, of the tsai shin meaou, or " Temple of
the God of Wealth," was another impediment to there
being the usual number of attendants. About a hundred
respectably-dressed Chinese listened for nearly an hour
to the missionary while he read and explained a printed
sermon, composed for the occasion, a copy of which was 


■
RELIGIOUS INQUIRERS. 133
placed in the hand of every individual to read at the time,
and to take to his home for subsequent perusal. They ap-
peared much interested, and expressed their approbation
of the doctrines explained to them. Mr. Medhurst makes
it his practice to compose his discourse in the literary
style, and to print it previously to its delivery, that each of
his hearers may have the subject in writing before him.
He read a few sentences, and then explained and enlarged
on them in the dialect of the place. One of the auditors
had come from Kea-ting, thirty miles distant, to convey a
request that the missionaries would go thither to preach.
Similar cases of inquiry have occurred at Soo-chow and
Nanking; and at this time one such case from Chin-keang-
foo* was under Dr. Lockhart's roof. The cases of this
kind have been generally those of men of affluence and ed-
ucation; and the Christian tracts which had been carried
to distant towns were the first link in the chain of instru-
mental events which led them within the sound of the
preached Word of God. At nine o'clock in the morning Mr. Medhurst had pre-
viously held a service in the city, in the Fokeen dialect, for
the benefit of the enterprising merchants from that prov-
ince, temporarily resident at Shanghai. In the evening he
again held a service at Dr. Lockhart's, at which about one
hundred were present, one third of the number being
women, who sat apart from the rest in the surgery-room,
adjoining the open court in which the men were seated.
After the service was concluded several Chinese approach-
ed the table, asking for books, especially naming the tung-
shoo, or " Christian Almanac." One of them was a grain-
dealer from Hang-chow, the terminus of the Grand Canal.
He and several others asked when there would be another
service of the kind, a good sign of the interest excited. June 23d.—I set off at six a.m. to make a trip around
the city walls. Being unable to walk the distance, I em- * This man, a literary graduate, has since been admitted to baptism.


134
TRIP BOUND THE CITY WALLS.
ployed two men to carry me in a bamboo chair. Making
our way from the suburbs to the lesser southern gate, we
mounted the parapet by a flight of about twenty stone
steps, and proceeded in a northwest direction toward the
larger southern gate. The city here presented a rural as-
pect, forming one succession of pleasant gardens, with only
a few houses interspersed. Outside the wall there was
scarcely a house to be seen till our arrival at the northern
gate, where both the city and suburbs appeared to be more
thickly peopled. Near this point we had to pass through a
temple of the Taou sect, which surmounted the wall, and
consequently lay across our course. An old man, appa-
rently connected with the temple, began conversing with
the bearers; and afterward, approaching my chair, shook
hands with me, and pressed me to alight and explore the
building. He took me across a room filled with attendants
to another series of rooms, anxious to show me what he
considered the wonders of the place, till want of time com-
pelled me to decline his attentions. Near this point we
passed two dead bodies of beggars, who were brought
hither, in the last stage of life, 'to die, and to be buried at
the expense of the government, or by the agents of some
benevolent society. During the excursion we passed six
or seven other dead bodies on the city wall, two of which
were lying at the entrance of a temple. Bending our
course from the northern gate, in a southeast direction, we
passed along a thickly-inhabited part of the city, abounding
with temples, some of which compelled us to descend from
the parapet and to reascend on the other side of the build-
ing. Toward the two eastern gates, the suburbs retired to
a little distance from the wall, the intermediate space being
occupied by wide, spacious paths with a few houses inter-
spersed. The principal part of the buildings in the suburbs
followed the course of the river, showing the commercial
character of the population. The eastern parts of the city
seemed to possess the finest private buildings, and a more 


VISIT TO A COKEAN JUNK.
opulent class of inhabitants. The long range of buildings
connected with the department of the superintendent of the
customs occupied a considerable extent of space. One
fact I noticed, which may serve to show the extent ti»
which idolatrous offerings form an essential part of the daily
life of this people. Not only along the streets may be seen
a number of shops, at which scarcely any thing else is sold
but silver paper for offerings, but also in a solitary part of
the city wall I met with a small stand, the whole vendible
articles of which consisted of fragrant sticks, incense, sacred
candles, and the substitute for money made from tinfoil.
The whole circuit of the walls and return to the suburbs
occupied about one hour and a half. The people every
where showed a friendly disposition, and the impression of
the city was, on the whole, favorable. The thing which
excited most surprise was to find that for more than half
the circuit of the walls there were scarcely any houses in
their vicinity, and nothing to resemble a regular street for
above a quarter of a mile in some parts; the neighborhood
of the walls being apparently inhabited by an agricultural
or horticultural class of people. Later in the day I visited a Corean junk, manned by
Roman Catholic sailors, and lying in the river off the cus-
tom-house. The circumstances attending the arrival of
this little vessel possessed more than ordinary interest.
The self-styled captain was a deacon of the Roman Cath-
olic church planted in former times in Corea, where it has
survived the power of successive persecutions, during one
of which his own father and grandfather had been put to
death. The arrival of these strangers, with their peculiar
garb and high-peaked caps, furnished an occasion of amuse-
ment to the Chinese in Shanghai. The Coreans soon
formed a subject for the native painters of caricatures;
and grotesque representations of them were to be seen ex-
posed for sale at the picture-shops. The immediate object
of their visit to Shanghai was to request that a bishop


136
ROMISH CHURCH IN COREA.
might be sent back with them from the Popish mission
near the city. In order to escape the suspicion of the Chi-
nese authorities, they feigned to be driven, by stress of
weather and with the loss of a mast, into the port for ref-
uge, where they pretended to refit their vessel for a return
to their own country. On my going on board, I was wel-
comed, in the captain's absence, by two or three of the
crew, into a little narrow cabin, screened only by canvas
from the elements. I found three Latin missals and a
Popish calendar lying on the table, the greater part of
them being printed in Paris, and one bearing the date
1823. Although possessing a language of their own, they
could speak Chinese in the court dialect. They made fre-
quent signs of the cross as I conversed with them. Before
my departure I sketched out, in Latin, a note for the cap-
tain, giving a short outline of the more prominent truths of
the Gospel. Just as I had concluded, the captain was an-
nounced as coming from the shore. In a few minutes he
arrived and cordially greeted me. He was named Sung-
kim, and stated himself to be twenty-four years of age.
He estimated the population of Corea, his native country,
at fourteen millions, about 10,000 of whom were Christians.
He said that they observed the Sabbath Day, but were not
rigidly strict in fasting. In reply to my question, he stated
that they had in Corea only three or four of the Latin books
which I saw on the table; and that death had taken from
them their bishop and all their priests. He professed to
have brought no cargo, and said that he intended to take
none back on their return. Their only object in making
so long a voyage was to obtain a bishop for Corea, whom
they would convey back in their junk. As the Romish
bishop was now absent from Shanghai on a secret mission
to Peking, the Coreans were anxiously awaiting his daily-
expected return: and report affirmed that they had taxed
their ingenuity to the utmost, in imposing on the authori-
ties excuses for delaying their departure. At my invitation


THE "FOUNDLING HOSPITAL."
137
the captain read aloud from one of the Latin missals. The
page from which he read contained an extravagant eulo-
gium of the Virgin, in which I particularly noticed the
term Mater Dei, shortly after followed by ... . qua pervia
caeli Porta manes, "Mother of God, who continucst the
gate through which we pass to heaven." On June 25th we visited the tung jin tang, or " Hall of
United Benevolence." The existence of such institutions
in China is a striking trait in the national character, and
exhibits a measure of natural benevolence almost peculiar
to the Chinese as a pagan nation. The Chinese have been
for more than 2000 years an isolated people, and yet we
behold among them, what Christian writers have in former
times been disposed to doubt or deny, the existence of be-
nevolent institutions as the fruits of pagan morality. The "Hall of United Benevolence" has its cemetery,
hospital, and similar institutions in different parts of the city
and suburbs, at which coffins are provided, and the ex-
penses of burial defrayed for the unclaimed dead. A few
aged and infirm persons, also, are supplied with relief, the
expenses of support and management being defrayed by
private subscriptions. On entering the court we turned
aside into a hall, where a master was engaged in teaching
about twenty boys, who, with fifteen old men, were the
only inmates of this place. In a little room on the right
were nine coffins, quite new, of plain, though very substan-
tial construction, and ready for use at any time. These
were inscribed in Chinese characters, with the name of
the institution, M *t ^ tung jin tang, and with the
figures 6382 to 6390 consecutively, being the number of
coffins gratuitously supplied since the commencement of
the institution. From this place we proceeded to the yuh ying tang, or
"Foundling Hospital," which is also supported by subscrip-
tions, and is intended to receive the female children of those
who are too poor to support their offspring. At the en-
M*


138 THE "HALL OF THE LORD OP HEAVEN."
trance the Chinese attendants showed us the little box in
which the infant is placed, as in a kind of drawer, and pass-
ed by its relatives into the interior, a bell being rung to ap-
prise the inmates of the arrival of the young stranger.
This explanation of its use, and corresponding gestures of
the attendants, drew forth considerable mirth from the col-
lected crowd. Two hundred female infants are said to be
received annually. In the principal hall was a gigantic
image of an old woman, with five infants either in her arms
or hanging to her person. We went through a few wards,
and saw six nurses with the same number of children, most
of them under a year old; the greater part of the children
being supported away from the hospital, at the expense of
its funds. Each child had a wooden tally, with its own
name and that of the institution inscribed on it, and kept
by its nurse. The superintendant presented me with a
copy of the printed report of the institution, containing
nearly a hundred pages.
We went next to visit an old temple called the Kwan-te
meaou, the "Temple of the Martial God," or, as it is also
commonly termed, the teen-choo tang, the " Hall of the Lord
of Heaven," a Roman Catholic church formerly occupying
its site. In the time of the Ming dynasty it was burned
down, and the Chinese authorities, at a later period, avail-
ed themselves of the unpopularity of the Romanist missiona-
ries to convert it into a pagan temple. On the ruin was
rebuilt the present edifice to the honor of Kwan-te, a deified
martial hero, who flourished in the San-kwo, about the
time of the Christian era. The Roman Catholic bishop is
said to be strenuously exerting his influence at this time to
get it restored to its original purposes, and to build a cathe-
dral on its site. As we entered, there were several hun-
dred persons collected to witness a theatrical exhibition in
the outer square. Behind the temple a terrace is said
to be still remaining, from which some of the learn-
ed Jesuit missionaries, in former times, made their astro-


VISIT FROM A COREAN SAILOR.
139
nomical observations, by their improvements in which
science they gained such an influence over the Chinese
rulers. By an act of ingratitude, however, no sooner had
the Jesuits framed a calendar for astronomical purposes,
extending forward for centuries, than the Chinese emperor
expelled the men of whose services he was now independ-
ent. The temple itself possessed nothing remarkable, except
the size and splendor of the idols, that of Kwan-te occupy-
ing a prominent position. A few men were observed in
the interior effecting some repairs and decorating portions
of the temple. There appeared to be, at this time, a
revived zeal for beautifying the public buildings at Shanghai, indicating the thriving trade as well as the thriving
superstition of the inhabitants. When on the point of embarking for Ningpo, I went in
a boat to make a final visit to the Corean junk. I took with
me a copy of the Gospel of St. Luke in Chinese, for each
of the crew, twelve in number; and a copy of the Epistle
to the Romans, and a manual of prayers for the captain.
On arriving alongside I was informed that the captain was
absent; but the books were readily received by the crew,
who pressed me, by urgent invitations, to come on board,
which I was unable to do, as I was in hourly expectation
of sailing. About an hour had elapsed after my embarka-
tion, when one of the Corean crew boarded our vessel, and,
with many protestations of respect, begged permission to
return the whole of the books, and to decline the present
from me. The reason, which I more than suspected, was
the subsequent return of the captain, a Romish deacon,
educated by the priests at Macao, and his unwillingness
that his men should receive what he probably deemed to
contain the elements of Protestant heresy. The motive,
however, assigned by the Corean was, that, in the absence
of the captain, they had no authority to receive any books,
and that he already had some religious books for them. It


CHAPTER XII.
ARRIVAL AT NINGPO. Voyage to Ningpo—Descent of the Yang-tze-keang—Bay of Chapoo—Chi-
nese Pilot—City of Chin-hai—Ascent of River and Arrival at Ningpo—Renewed Civility of Custom-House Officers — Proposed Lodging in a
Taouist Monastery—Renting a Chinese House, and attendant Formalities
—Access to the Family of a Chinese Patriarch—Absurd Principles of na-
tive Medicine—Facts illustrative of Chinese Ideas on Marriage—Situation
of House—The Tower of Ningpo—Visit to a Mohammedan Mosque—Re-
turn Visit of a Mohammedan Priest—A Roman Catholic Patient. On June 26th we weighed anchor and dropped down the
river with the ebb-tide. Numbers of junks from Shantung
and Tartary, laden with grain, were in the river, with a
multitude of boats, propelled by one or two sculls, each of
which was sometimes of sufficient size to employ eight or
ten persons. Oars seemed to be a mechanical contrivance
either unknown or unvalued in comparison with the scull.
We came to anchor at Woosung, a heavy gale blowing
during the night from the southeast. The next morning,
the 27th, the weather moderated, and the wind slightly
changed, so as to enable us to sail down the Yang-tze-keang
to the east of GutzlafF's Island. We came to anchor, dur-
ing a fog, somewhere near Rocky Island, at the opening
of the bay which indents the coast of Keang-soo and Che-
keang provinces, and contains two of the most important
ports of the central line of seaboard—Hong-chow-foo, the
terminus of the Grand Canal, and Chapoo, the port to which
the Japanese trading junks are restricted. The day after, as soon as the fog cleared away, we
weighed anchor, and sailed to the eastward of some islands
forming part of the Chusan group, till we were again com-
pelled to drop anchor, at 4 p.m., for the night. The next
morning we found ourselves near the opening of the river


142
CITY OF CHIN-HAI.
which leads to Ningpo, the entrance of which, however,
was a work of danger and difficulty, from the numerous
sunken rocks which here abound. Being deputed by the
captain to act as an interpreter, I was sent off with a boat's
crew to one of the fishing-boats to obtain a pilot. There
being little wind, the poor fishermen could not have es-
caped from our oars, even if they had cherished the wish.
With some difficulty I made them comprehend the nature
of my errand; and by kind words, and assurances of good
treatment, one of them was induced to return with us to
the ship, where he was of some service in directing our
course through this rocky channel. As we entered the
river, the wind suddenly failing, and the contrary tide run-
ning strong, we were compelled to lie at anchor for several
hours off the city of Chin-hai. The neighboring hills pos-
sessed all the romantic interest of the scenery farther south,
with the additional advantage of a fair amount of cultiva-
tion, the soil being divided into parterres of vegetation ris-
ing one above another, and marking the stimulus afforded
by necessity to the industry of an excessive population.
Two forts, one on either side, guarded the entrance of the
river, which was lined by a long battery of fortifications,
extending half a mile. These were captured by the Brit-
ish in the late war, and the city itself was occupied for some
months by the troops. It is said that the battle of Chin-hai
was one of the most sanguinary, next to the capture of
Chin-keang-foo, that took place in the course of the war.
Upward of a thousand Chinese were slain, being driven
down by the British troops on either side into the river,
from which only two or three hundred could be prevailed
upon to return and receive quarter, on the assurances of
safety given by the interpreter. Large crowds of people
were at this time assembled on the bank outside the wall
to catch a view of us—the arrival of a foreign vessel being
still an event of unfrequent occurrence. As we lay among
a fleet of junks, a boat was observed making for our vessel, 


ARRIVAL AT NINGPO. 143 with a large piece of cloth, in the form of a flag, suspended
from a pole, and inscribed with Chinese characters, intima-
ting that they were from the hai-quan, or custom-house.
Two officials requested the production of the ship's pass,
the port from which she had sailed, the nature of her cargo,
and other particulars. The required papers being produ-
ced for their inspection, they were proceeding to put a
further series of queries from a book, having parallel
sentences in Chinese and English, when I interrupted
them by the observation that this was our Sabbath Day, on
which it was our custom to avoid unnecessary business.
This intimation was a sufficient inducement to them to
terminate their inquiries, and, with the usual salutations
of respect, they descended to their boat without further
questions. With the evening's tide we proceeded up the river to
the city of Ningpo, twelve miles distant, a continuous series
of villages and temples enlivening the scenery. The hills
at the mouth of the river gradually recede on either side,
so that Ningpo occupies the center of an extended plain,
the high ground, at the distance of fifteen miles, rising two
or three thousand feet above the valley inclosed by them. The only foreign vessel lying off the city was a Scotch
bark, close to which we took our position. Few minutes
had elapsed before another party of custom-house officials
made their appearance, and, after a series of bowings, were
proceeding to their interrogations, when I pursued imme-
diately the same course as at Chin-hai, saying that this
was our holy day, and that we were unwilling to enter on
any business till the following morning, when all the infor-
mation they desired would be obtainable, together with
the ship's papers, at the British consulate. This plea of
exemption was instantly acknowledged as reasonable and
satisfactory; and the promptness with which they left the
vessel was an additional proof of the willingness of the
Chinese to respect in others that adherence to principle


144
TAOUIST MONASTERY.
and customary observances which they so rigidly practice
themselves. On the following morning, June 30th, I landed at the
British consulate. The houses of the few foreigners resi-
dent at Ningpo are situated in a little suburb on the north-
er n bank of the river, by which they are separated from
the city itself. Here I was hospitably entertained by the
vice-consul, formerly a member of the University of Cam-
bridge. During the next three days I made visits to some
missionary brethren, whose acquaintance I had formed in
the south of China, especially to two American friends on
the other side of the river, who, for the present, were lodg-
ing in a part of a Taouist temple within the northern gate
of the city. The foundation of this monastery was of com-
paratively recent origin, dating no farther back than fifty
years, in the reign of Kea-King, the predecessor of the
present emperor. It forms an assemblage of temples,
comprised under the general name of ,{£ fj^ j^g yew shing
quan.
The principal building forms the monastery, in which
six Taouist priests reside, who are remarkable for little
else than their vacant looks, their excessive ignorance, and
the obesity of their persons, which gives rise to the suspi-
cion that they are not very rigid in their adherence to the
vegetable diet of monastic rule. In the northwest ex-
tremity of the range of buildings is a small nunnery—the
frequent appendage of these institutions—in which three
nuns of ill repute reside. In the southwest angle is a tem-
ple of ancestors, placed under the superintendence of the
monks, at which, twice in each month, there is a general
attendance of the city mandarins for worship. In the
southeast corner is a temple, of the Confucian sect, also
under the supervision of the Taouists. This is denomi-
nated 5C 5? (0 wan chang ko, or, " The Temple of Ele-
gant Literature." In this building my two missionary
friends were domiciled, and we surveyed the other unten-


RENTING A CHINESE HOUSE. 145 anted parts, with the intention of my securing a lodging in
the temple. The apartments placed at my option adjoined
a little room in which was an idol of the god of the north-
star. This was almost the only image in the Confucian
part of the temple. In my proposed lodging there were
lying several coffins of substantial construction, sent hither
by superstitious individuals, whose bodies they were des-
tined hereafter to inclose, under the absurd belief that the
sacred vicinity in which they were lodged was calculated
to insure long life and prosperity—a superstition of which
the monks probably were not anxious to disabuse their
minds, in the accession which it brings to the revenues of
the temple. As, however, I regarded Ningpo as the probable scene
of my future missionary labors, and was therefore desirous,
if possible, of securing a residence of a more permanent
tenure, in the midst of the native population, we strolled
into the heart of the city, and looked at several houses. In
this matter I received valuable assistance from Sze seen-
sang, the teacher of one of the missionaries, who evinced a
great interest in Christianity. He seemed pleased at my
being a missionary, and was very active in reducing every
item of expenditure to an economical scale. Several un-
suitable houses were shown to us; and we were near giv-
ing over the hope of success, when a man told us of a va-
cant house between the East and the Salt Gates, which
seemed, on examination, likely to suit my purpose. After
two or three days' preliminary negotiations, on July 3d the
lease was duly signed by the chung-jin, or house-agent, and
myself, and attested by one foreigner and one Chinese, ii
addition to the Chinese who drew up the document. The
terms were favorable, viz., nine dollars a month—six months'
rent to be paid immediately, as a deposit—and a guaranty
against ejection or increase of rent by the landlord. The
deed was torn down the middle, and each party retained
his half, as security. The matter occupied three hours N


A CHINESE PATRIARCH. with the various little debates and consultations which arose
from it; but this was a rare instance of promptness and
dispatch for such an occasion. July 12th.—I visited, with a medical missionary and his
teacher, a Chinese family in the western part of the city,
one of the members of which was dangerously ill. The old
man, the head of the family, received us in a hall, where a
feast of sweetmeats and tea was served to us. A kind of
spirituous liquor, distilled from rice, was poured out from a
teapot into small cups, and handed to us to taste. The old
man kept watching, and replenishing our saucers with
sweetmeats and cakes, which he broke into morsels with
his own fingers, dipping them into a kind of sauce. My
friend Sze seen-sang was, however, annoyed at his excess-
ive attentions and use of his fingers, telling him that it was
the custom of foreigners to help themselves, and handing
us the chop-sticks for the purpose. The old gentleman
still insisted on his doing the honors of the occasion; and
our portion was handed to us as before, in his fingers, drop-
ping with sauce. In the open space outside were ranged
a number of dwarf-trees, which the Chinese show much
patience and skill in restraining within the limits of a stunt-
ed growth. There were little shrubs, resembling the fir
and the oak, and possessing all the proportions and beauti-
ful foliage of large trees, compressed to a diminutive size,
scarcely exceeding eighteen inches in height. We were soon after summoned to survey the melancholy
scenes of the sick-chamber. Under the same roof lived the
patriarch and his descendants to the third generation, with
the wives of his sons and grandsons. The ladies of the
family stood at a door, and eagerly stole secret glances
at the foreigners, quickly retreating on the discovery that
they were observed. One of the sons was lying on a bed,
afflicted with dropsy, under the effects of which he was
suffering acutely, his body being swollen to twice the natu-
ral size. The aged mother supported his languid frame, 


NATIVE MEDICINE MARRIAGE CUSTOMS. 147 and betrayed the tender emotions of maternal affection;
while the father expatiated, in sonorous tones and with
wild gestures, on the symptoms of the disease. The native
practitioners had been pursuing their irrational mode of
treatment, on the supposition that it was a little globule of
coagulated blood which was circulating in the body, and
must be expelled before any hope of recovery could be
cherished. For this purpose, among other specifics, toads
had been prescribed for the patient. The real seat of dis-
ease appeared to be the liver; but the serious stage of the
disease, and their unwillingness to act decidedly against
the course prescribed by the native quacks, rendered for-
eign medical skill almost useless. The poor fellow died
about a fortnight afterward. On returning to the water side, we found the weather so
boisterous, and the waves running so high, that the Chinese
boatmen would not venture across. I had therefore to re-
main in the city with my American friends, and slept in the
Taouist monastery, in a room adjoining the great hall of
Confucius. 1 was more successful in my attempt to cross
over early the next day. July lith.—I had a long conversation with a well-in-
formed Chinese, named Sing, an attache of the British con-
sulate, who, in the late war, acted as a paymaster in the
Chinese army, for which the principal reward he received
was the privilege of wearing a gold button on his cap, the
decoration of mandarins of the three lowest ranks. His
relation to the British, and knowledge of the English lan-
guage, rendered him a person of some importance to the
mandarins, by whom he was frequently sent for to explain
business relating to foreigners. On the strength of his in-
creasing consequence and augmented income, he lately
determined to marry; but a strange mistake occurred to
mar the joyous festivity of his marriage. On the occasion
of a procession of native females to some temple, the
daughter of a neighboring gentleman had caught the eye








ATHEISM OF CONFUCIANS. 151
being reported to the emperor, excited a distrust of his
official ability; and he was dismissed from his military
command to return to his native province of Fokeen. The
reason assigned for his dismissal was, that he was too much
engaged in domestic affairs.
Sing is an able and clever Chinese, but possesses very
lax moral principles. He frankly confessed that the Con-
fucians do not believe in a future state of rewards and pun-
ishments, saying, with a contemptuous tone, that they left
such notions to the Budhists. According to his view, Con-
fucius left no instructions respecting the Deity, and taught
his followers that such things as worshiping idols were mat-
ters of indifference, to be decided altogether by the tastes
or interests of the individual. The ching loo, " the straight
way," was the only path of moral duty of any importance,
in the estimate of the sage. On July 16th, after some delay caused by indisposition,
I was safely inducted into my new residence within the
city wall, which almost touched the back of my house.
The houses adjacent to my residence were tenanted by
persons of the worst character, which was a source of con-
tinual annoyance to me, as I had frequent melancholy
proofs of their low estimate of European morality. My
rebuke of one of this class created some surprise. This
quarter of the city was, however, favorable for acquiring
the local dialect, and my house was within a few hundred
yards of the Tung mun keae, or "East-gate street," the
principal street of the city. My only foreign neighbors
within the city were two American missionaries, lodging
in a temple above a mile distant. Separated, to a great
extent, from intercourse with Christians, I nevertheless
found solitude to be pleasant and profitable. The heat
soon began to be intense, and the only hour during which
it was safe to venture out of doors was about sunset. At
this season of the evening I usually took a short walk on
the city wall, adjacent to my house.


152 dUESTioNS op Chinese neighbors.
Occasionally, as I sat in a little recess of the rampart,
the Chinese laborers would stop to look at the books which
I generally carried with me for distribution; but scarcely
one man in five could read a character. A few of the
more respectable class of tradesmen and writers in the pub-
he offices would sometimes remain questioning me. The
inquiries generally referred to the nature of my objects, my
employments, my residence, the number of my domestics,
the number of times I ate rice in a day, and many similar
matters, by which they sought to estimate my importance.
A few of them afterward paid me a visit at my house.
Two old men, who soon began to claim an acquaintance
with me, used to ask me about the cross, and the differ-
ence between my religion and that of the Roman Catholics,
whom they had seen in the neighboring town of Tze-ke. On July 23d I varied my usual evening route, by paying
a visit, with my teacher, to the pagoda commonly called
Teen-fung tah," The Tower of CelestialWind." After pass-
ing through several court-yards of a neighboring Budh-
ist monastery, I at last found myself in the open space in
which this lofty tower stands. The ground was overgrown
with thick herbage; and the large number of tombs,
placed, according to the custom of the central and north-
ern provinces, above the level of the soil, gave it almost
the appearance of a European burial-ground. The build-
ing is hexagonal, and has seven stories. A succession of
wooden stairs within conducts the visitor to the highest
story; and, as he gradually ascends, the view from the
windows of each story is increasingly grand and magnifi-
cent. Beneath his feet lie the living masses of a populous
city, teeming with busy toil. Every variety of form, size,
and color helps to heighten the novel effect, and imparts a
feeling of romance to the objects before him. The numer-
ous temples reared by native superstition, the curiously-
devised buildings, the grotesque style of architecture, the
elaborately-formed roofs, the strangely-sculptured arches,


TOWER OP NINGPO.
153
the various emblems of civic authority, and the irregular
range of public buildings, form one successive group of
motley objects, as far as the eye extends. The walls,
which begirt the city at the distance of one or two miles
on either side, are relieved from their monotonous appear-
ance by the watch-towers which surmount the gates. On
three sides the city is surrounded by streams of considera-
ble breadth, into which numerous dykes conduct the drains
and refuse of the place. To the east lies the river, with
an assemblage of native junks on its waters. Beyond the
walls an extended plain stretches forward amid a fertile
and productive country, till, at the distance of ten or twen-
ty miles, the bold line of hills, rising in the sky, gives a
completeness to the scene. Here, if any where, will the
traveler, as he views this moving panorama of life, realize
the feeling that he is in a new world of men and things. As we descended, a priest was standing below to receive
his perquisite of a few cash for his superintendence of the
building. The pagoda is said to have been built about
900 years ago, during the How Chow dynasty; and a
vague superstition in the power of the tutelary gods of the
city was probably the sole origin of an edifice which re-
mote generations have viewed with interest. It has suf-
fered a larger than average proportion of disasters from
casualities and the ravages of the elements. Its exterior
bears the mark of age in the half-tottering appearance of
the whole edifice. The interior is in a better state of pres-
ervation, having been repaired, about six years ago, by a
Chinese gentleman, of some local celebrity, named Wang,
who is said to have expended 3000 dollars on the building.
His public spirit and liberality have been emulated by an-
other wealthy Chinese, named Fung, who has amassed an
immense fortune by his junks trading in the Eastern Ocean,
and now resides at a little distance from the city, at a place
called Tze-ke. There he seeks to enjoy the comforts and
splendor of wealth, and the more substantial luxury of


MOHAMMEDAN MOSOTJE.
doing good, in the Chinese estimate of the matter, by re-
pairing temples, beautifying public buildings, and mending
the roads in the vicinity. The pagoda is more than 100 feet in height, and is as-
cended by deep steps, ninety-two in number, to the upper-
most story, above which it is roofed over on the top. The
priest, who was completely deaf, seemed to possess no re-
spect in the minds of the surrounding crowd. The Gospel
of St. John and the Epistle of St. James were left with
him, as a memorial of our visit. Nothing can be more hu-
miliating than the general condition of these men, who, by
their poverty, by the absence of the means of an honest
livelihood, or by being sold in infancy, have become at-
tached to the monastic institutions. We proceeded thence to visit the Jiwwi-hwui tang, or Mo-
hammedan temple, in Woo-se, near the famous lake in the
interior of the city. The building was not extensive, but
had an air of peculiar neatness. Some flowers and shrubs
were tastefully arranged in the principal court, into which
two or three dwellings opened, the mosque itself (if it may
be dignified with such a name) occupying the upper end
of the court, and being slightly raised. The old priest, a
man of fine, intelligent appearance and lively manners, re-
ceived me and my teacher with great politeness. The
Mohammedans are a small body, having come to Ningpo
from the province of Shantung about 200 years ago, and
they now number only about sixty-seven persons of all ages
and both sexes. They are Mongul Tartars by descent,
and are engaged principally in trade. Some of them are
employed as writers in the public offices, and there are
also a few soldiers among their number. The old priest
was a native of Shantung, having been sent for thence to
Ningpo, forty years ago, according to the custom of sup-
plying the priesthood, on a vacancy, from their original
province. After we had taken some tea together, and
made an exchange of some trifling presents, he sent his


HETURN-VISIT OF A MOHAMMEDAN PKIEST. 155
grandson to bring some Arabic books and portions of the
Koran, which he appeared to read with great fluency.
His knowledge of geographical names exceeded that of
the generality of Chinese to be met with in the north
of China. He mentioned the countries in which his relig-
ion prevailed, among which he named Bokhara, Madras,
Turkey, and several places in Arabia. We adjourned into
the temple, which was written over with sacred sentences
from the Koran, and had a little ark for the sacred books,
with a movable pulpit. I had previously supplied him
and another Mohammedan with one of the gospels and
epistles in Chinese, but was surprised to find, on asking
the priest to read some Chinese inscriptions in the temple,
that he was unable to decipher a single character, though
he speaks the language very well, and has been during
forty years a resident in Ningpo. He mentioned Nanking
as the place where the professors of Mohammedism are
most numerous, computing them, at that place, to exceed
20,000. On my return, I took a walk around the Wbo-se
Lake and its fine assemblage of public buildings. A cool,
refreshing breeze rippled its surface; and the comparative
quietude of the spot, and the open spaciousness of the
scene, after the close, noisy streets through which we had
been borne, imparted a soothing influence to the mind. On the next day, Fung, the Mohammedan priest, re-
turned my visit. One of his Mohammedan friends had
lately come from Shantung, and brought thence three small
Tartar horses for sale. His friend was thinking of pro-
ceeding with them to Chusan, and the old man wished to
have my advice on the expediency of this course, and the
probability of finding a purchaser among the English resi-
dents. I suggested to him that the approaching evacuation
of Chusan by the British troops, at the end of the Chinese
year, was likely to increase the difficulty of sale. We afterward had some conversation on more general
topics, which I was enabled to carry on by the help of my


150
TOPICS OF CONVERSATION.
teacher, Le seen-sang, and by the slow enunciation of the
priest himself. He spoke of the great strictness of his sect
in abstaining from intoxicating liquors, and said he was
invested with the power of inflicting corporal chastisement
on any of his people addicted to intemperance. He next
dwelt on the frequent religious ablutions which they prac-
ticed, and which he seemed to regard as a mark of their
devoutness. To this it was replied, that Christians did not
neglected outward washings, but that the object of the
Gospel was to cleanse the inward man; and that if the
heart was right, outward conduct would be right. On my
stating that all men were naturally possessed of wicked
hearts, and quoting the beginning of the San-tze-king, for
the purpose of denying the truth of its statement, that
"man's disposition at the commencement is originally good,"
the priest and my teacher both exclaimed, in their surprise,
"How can a little child be wicked!" I proceeded to in-
stance the truth of my assertion, in the proneness of chil-
dren to anger, even in infancy, and their increasing wicked-
ness with their increasing years. How then (I asked) could
the heart be made good? How could sin be forgiven t
Jesus could effect both, and the worshiper of Jesus be-
came happy. The old man spoke of the zeal of his sect
against idolatry, and their breaking of images whenever
they had the power. He asked if we had any images, and
expressed his satisfaction with my reply. Once or twice
he said, that as the holy day of Christians differed only in
being two days later in each week from the holy day of
Mohammedans, our religions were almost the same—a
statement of which I could not avoid as often denying the
truth. He took an opportunity of ridiculing the ignorance
and hypocrisy of the Budhist monks, and rose from his seat
to mimic their uplifted hands, closed eyes, muttered sounds,
and frequent prostrations. As he left me he said something
about Peh-to-lo (Peter), of which I could not gather the
meaning, but considered it to refer to the Teen-choo-keaou,


ROMAN CATHOLIC PATIENT. 157 or Roman Catholics. In reply to my inquiries, I was
informed there were not more than two or three of that
sect in Ningpo. My teacher thought that there were more
than that number, who clandestinely worship the Lord of
Heaven, but were afraid of persecution. A few days afterward, as I was sitting at the Missionary
Hospital, conducted on a small scale within the north gate
of the city, a man presented himself for medical treatment, who had come from the neighboring town of Tze-ke, and
whom we discovered to be a Roman Catholic. He had a
small medal suspended from his neck, which, in reply to
our question, he plainly said he worshiped. The medal
was about the size of a farthing, and had on one side a rep-
resentation of the cross, with the Roman letter M (Mary)
instead of the usual letters, I H S. On the reverse was an
image of the Virgin, surrounded by some Chinese charac-
ters. O


CHAPTER XIII. EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR. Personal Adventures on the Journey—Rural Scenery—Arrival at the Budh-
ist Monastery at Teen tung — Visit to the Abbot— Library — Religious
Hopes of Budhism—Neighboring Villages and Out-Temples—Budhist
Rosary — A Village Schoolmaster — Return to Ningpo — The "Ching-
wang-meaou"—Temples in honor of Confucius—Visits to a Chinese
Vessel. The increasing violence of the heat produced in me such
debilitating effects, that, on July 30th, I availed myself of
the kindness of a friend, who accompanied me to a cool
retreat on the hills, about twenty-one miles distant, where
there was a large Budhist monastery. The regulations
established at Ningpo respecting the boundaries are those
of locality and not of time. The scene of our intended visit
was comprised within the limits of the district, in which
foreigners are permitted to roam; so that we were not re-
stricted by any necessity of returning to Ningpo within
any given day, or even any number of days. We set out
at eight p.m., in a boat covered over on the top. After
proceeding up the river, on the eastern side of the city,
about half a mile, we were detained some time at a barrier
separating the river from a canal, which we had to enter.
Here we landed, and remained on the bank, while six Chi-
nese were engaged in slowly winding round, by means of a
clumsily-contrived capstan, the rope which was attached to
the boat. In this manner they gradually drew it up over
an inclined plane, from the top of which it was easily
lanched, by its own weight, two or three feet into the
canal on the other side. On the whole, it was a good sub-
stitute for a lock. The clamor and scolding of our men,
who assisted in hauling our boat the next few miles, effect-
ually prevented our obtaining any rest from sleep. The 


PERSONAL ADVENTURES ON THE JOURNEY. 159 bridges were numerous, and at not a few of them our im-
petuous haulers, heedless of the vociferating cautions of the
boatman, brought our mast into contact with the arch, and
precipitated both the mast and the towing-line into the
water. At one point we were hailed by some soldiers at a
watch-station, when our boy held up my companion's lan-
tern, inscribed with his title and office, as a proof of our
respectability, and we were allowed to pass on. About
one a.m. we arrived at the terminus of the canal, from
which our route lay over the hills. We had to wait for two
hours, till chair-bearers and luggage-carriers could be procured, at this unseasonable hour of the night, from a neigh-
boring village. At last, after marshaling our retinue of
followers in a long shed, in which was a strange idol of
some female divinity, we set out for our destination, the
woodland hills of Teen-tung. Our chairs were very simple
contrivances, consisting merely of two bamboo poles, joined
together by a small cross-pole at either end and in the mid-
dle. A small board, suspended by two pieces of cord from
the central part, answered the purpose of a seat; and a
cross-stick, similarly suspended still lower before it, served
as a rest for the feet. The cross-pole, which connected the
bamboos in the middle of their length, answered also the
purpose of a rest for the back. We set out on our ascent
over the hills, each of us borne on the shoulders of two
sturdy Chinese villagers on these simple vehicles, which
enabled us to see the country and to catch the breeze.
For about three miles our path lay over a beautiful coun-
try, as far as we could catch a glimpse of its general fea-
tures by the star-light, leading us by a gradual ascent to
the top of a high hill. On one side was an old half-dilapi-
dated pagoda, and on the other a Budhist temple, with
three priests. The bell of the latter was sounding for their
idolatrous matins, as we halted to rest in an adjoining build-
ing, which served as a public place of rest. From this
point we descended along a causeway, which was regular-


160 BUDHIST MONASTERY AT TEEN-TUNG. ly paved, and divided into steps to facilitate the descent.
On either side, as the approach of dawn enabled us to gain
a clearer view of the country, the hills, covered with cop-
pices of bamboo and fir-trees, bore^in many parts, the ap-
pearance of an English rural scene. Two miles of valley
stretched before us from the bottom of the hill, containing
little village homesteads, with a rivulet here and there
murmuring in its passage over the pebbly channel. Rice-
fields occupied the space between the hills on our right and
left, little temples, ancestral tombs, and arches, lending also
a variety to the scene. At the end of the valley we entered
a long, winding avenue of tall trees, which cast their somber
shade around us, preparing our mind for the mystic retreats
which superstition here holds out, in all the stillness of soli-
tude, to its votaries. On three sides lofty hills, clad with
verdant foliage to their summit, hemmed in the view.
Fish-ponds on the left, covered with water-lilies and lotus-
flowers, found an outlet for their pent-up waters in a little
cascade on the right. A deep ravine intimated the violence
with which this mountain-torrent, at certain seasons of the
year, rolls down its impetuous waters. The trees were
some of them nearly two feet in diameter, and were in
some places occupied by an idol, for the reception of which
an opening had been made into the bark. Suddenly the
beautiful assemblage of temples, in all their romantic novelty, burst upon our view, with the gaudily-painted roofs
and fantastically-carved ridges. We passed over the large
outer approach, with its spacious piece of water, into the
principal entrance, from which courts in succession opened
before us into other quadrangles of temples. After exploring
the various parts of the monastery in the hope of finding
suitable quarters, we at length fixed our lodging in a couple
of rooms usually set apart for visitors, into which our lug-
gage was promptly conveyed. We had not been there many minutes before we werewaited on by a number of the priests in succession, to con-


INTERVIEW WITH THE ABBOT. 161 gratulate us on our arrival, and possibly to congratulate
themselves on the probable addition to their perquisites.
After a temporary rest, we went to pay our respects to the
abbot, who received us with great politeness, and invited
us to be seated. As we came upon him unexpectedly, he
watched for an opportunity of slipping out of the room, and
soon returned with a more dignified priestly robe. He
told us that he was fifty-four years of age, and a native of
one of the distant provinces; that the monastery over which
he presided was founded in the time of the Chin dynasty,
and that the abbot was elected every three years. He
asked me my age and my country. In reference to the
latter, he first asked me if 1" was a Spaniard. He then
inquired if I was an English mandarin; and on my re-
plying in the negative, asked me my object in coming to
China. I told him I had come as a chuen keaou, or
"propagator of religion." He then asked me if I came to
China as a chuen hwui-hwui keaou, or "propagator of the
Mohammedan religion." On my saying that I came to
propagate the religion of Jesus, he again, after a little con-
sideration, inquired if my religion was the same as the teen-
choo keaou, or "religion of the Lord of Heaven." After
his curiosity had in some degree been satisfied, the abbot,
in his turn, replied to my inquiry respecting the origin and
object of this monastic institution. He said that it was
founded in order that people might retire thither and make
their hearts good. I told him that our religious doctrines
could make a man's heart good, and begged him to accept
some of our sacred books. He received some tracts,
and a copy of one of the gospels. I presented him also
with a Christian almanac, containing several maps, which
furnished a theme of great interest, and led me to explain
to him the relative sites of Britain and America, and the
extensive possessions of the former in different parts of the
world. Before the close of our interview, the abbot assent-
ed, with apparent readiness, to the proposal of my coming
o*


162 CHARACTER AND PURSUITS OF THE PRIESTS.
to reside some time in the monastery before the end of the
summer. After leaving the abbot's apartments, we proceeded to
make a more minute survey of the different parts of the
monastery. In one of the courts, a number of men were
engaged in drying in the sun many hundred volumes of
books. Near this place we observed the library; and in a
room close by we met a solitary student, who was so much
absorbed in his subject, that he only took a glance at us for
a few moments, and then pursued his studies, so as to be
again apparently lost to a consciousness of external things.
More than a hundred priests dwell in the temple. The
greater portion of these monks are either brought to the
temple in childhood, by their needy relatives, or have been
driven to find an asylum within its walls, by their poverty
or crime in later years. The priests themselves acknowl-
edged to me that this was often the case. One old priest,
above eighty years of age, told me that those priests who
came from a distance had almost invariably fled from their
homes on account of crime. Here these wretched specimens of humanity live together in idleness. No community of interest, no ties of social life, no objects of generous
ambition, beyond the satisfying of those wants which bind them to the cloister, help to diversify the monotonous cur-
rent of their daily life. Separated by a broad line of de-
markation from the rest of society, and bound by vows to a
life of celibacy and asceticism, they are cut off from the or-
dinary enjoyments of one world, without any well-founded
hope of a better life. The greater part of these wretched
men saunter about with an idiotic smile and vacant look,
and appear little removed in intellect above the animal cre-
ation. Only a few seemed raised by mental culture above
the generality, and exhibit a refinement of mind and man-
ner. It is probable that some of these have been driven
to seek solace in this rerteat from the sorrows of life, or
from the anguish of remorse. By means of self-righteous 


IRRELIGIOUS HOPES OF BVDHISM. 163
asceticism, they hope to be delivered from the grosser ehv
merits which form the compound being, man, and to be
assimilated to, and at length finally absorbed into the im-
material substance of the holy Budh. For this purpose
they abstain from animal food, and repeat their daily rou-
tine of O-me-to fuh, till the requisite amount of purity and
merit has been gained, and the more devout are enabled
to revel in the imaginary paradise of absorption, or, in other
words, of annihilation. This is the grand hope of Budhism:
this is the only stimulus to present exertion which it offers.
The material part of man is to be purged away; and, after
transmigration through certain stages of animal life, more
or less numerous in proportion to the guilt or merit of the
individual, the soul is at last taken into the deity, and be-
comes a part of Budh himself. How glorious, in the con-
trast of such meager hopes, are the substantial realities
which the Gospel reveals! 1 John iii. 1-3. In the evening we proceeded, in chairs, about three miles
across the fields, and over some of the woods, to a temple
called Scaou Tern Tung. This, and some other temples
which we visited, were out-stations of the monastery, with
a few resident priests, who had their daily allowance from
the mother institution. In one of them we were shown, •>
the burial-place of the several abbots of the monastery. In
every place which we visited the priests brought us some
peculiar tea, grown in the neighborhood, of a rare and ex-
pensive kind. They were very anxious to cultivate an ac-
quaintance, and to receive books. The scenery of the
country over which we returned to the monastery was very
picturesque. Little hills and valleys alternately succeeded
each other, with their busy population quietly pursuing, on
all sides, their work of daily toil. At every point the in-
mates of each house, male and female, old and young, ran
out to see the strangers, and, in most instances, welcomed
us with good-natured smiles. In one place the path was
so narrow and precipitous, that one false step of the bear-


164
A VILLAGE SCHOOLMASTER. ers, or breaking of the bamboo poles which supported our
weight, would have thrown us above one hundred feet into
the ravine below. We arrived at our lodging in the mon-
astery, having every reason to be pleased with the popula-
tion and the beautiful scenery of the villages which we had
explored. At an early hour on the next morning, the abbot and the
superintending priest from Seaou Teen Tung returned our
call, and sat for some time with us, till they discovered that
we had not yet taken our morning meal; when they left,
with many apologies for their early intrusion. In the course
of the day one of the priests, who wore a rosary, which at-
tracted my notice, in a very gracious manner presented it
to me. Being afterward afraid that he should receive no
present from me in return, beyond the books I gave him,
he paid me a visit at a later hour of the day, and exhibited
many symptoms of anxiety. He told my boy that it had
cost him 1000 cash, and had been purchased at Nanking.
One little priest, about nine years old, seemed to be a pet
of the abbot. He looked forward, with ardent expectation,
to the age of sixteen, when he would have his head entirely
shaven, and be inducted into the full privileges of the priest-
hood. He soon began to attach himself to our party; and,
as he possessed much vivacity and intelligence, we had him
continually with us, deeming it necessary, however, to keep
a good watch over any articles of our property within his
reach, which he begged for most importunately. Before
the sun was high, we took a morning ride, in our chairs, to
the neighboring village of Teen-tung-keae. We sat some
time in a school, among master and pupils. The former
took from a box a European print, for us to examine, which
he seemed highly to prize. The title was " A Battue, or
Sport made Easy." In the print was represented the
prince-consort of the British queen, sitting in an easy chair,
in a drawing-room, taking his aim at some pheasants, par-
tridges, and hares, which in all parts of the room were fas-


TEMPLES IN HONOR OP CONFUCIUS. 165
tened by string to the chairs, stools, and legs of tables. Be-
hind his royal highness stood a keeper, with a loaded gun
ready to hand to the prince. The seen-sang said that it
was an Englishman who had given him the picture which
he so much valued; and beyond this he had no knowledge
of the donor. In the evening we set out on our return to the city of
Ningpo. After two hours we arrived at the canal, and,
embarking in our boat, reached the barrier which leads
into the river at Ningpo, about the hour of midnight. Here
we were delayed till sunrise by a strong gale of wind.
Soon after daylight we left the boat, and proceeded in
chairs through the military exercising-ground to a floating
bridge, over which we had to pass to the city. This bridge
consisted of a series of long platforms, or stages, each rest-
ing on two boats, and joining, by a few movable planks,
to the next platform, similarly supported, forming altogether
a distance of 150 yards across. After crossing this bridge,
we entered the city by the eastern gate; and in a few min-
utes I arrived at my house. A few days after my return from Teen-tung, I visited
the Ching-wang meaou, the principal temple of the city, at
which the mandarins are accustomed, at the commence-
ment and in the middle of each month, to assemble for a
formal invocation of the tutelary divinities of the place.
The idols were exquisitely adorned, and the various courts,
into which I was successively ushered, gave an air of
splendor to these establishments. This temple, as also the
two temples of Confucius, to which I thence directed my
course, had a large space of ground attached, with orna-
mental ponds and bridges. A few venerable Chinese were
sitting in various parts of these retreats from busy life, ap-
parently absorbed in the recollection of by-gone years. In
the lesser temple of Confucius a number of tablets, in trios,
were hung round the principal hall, in place of the usual
triads of idols. The only image was that of Confucius,


166
VISITS TO A SIAMESE JUNK. which represented the sage as a man of venerable aspect,
with white hair and flowing beard, wearing a square, black
cap, and holding in his hand a small wooden tablet, which
was inscribed with some mystic characters. A pot of
incense-ashes lay before the image, the remains of some
recent offering. In the larger of the temples, devoted to
the memory of the sage, which was situated near the Salt
Gate, no image of any kind was to be seen. About this time I paid occasional visits to a Siamese junk
lying in the river, off the east gate of the city. On my
boarding her, several groups of Chinese were observed,
chiefly engaged in gambling and smoking. The vessel had
three masts, and a spacious poop, with a cabin below, into
which I was conducted. The captain and supercargo were
the only Siamese connected with the vessel, which was said
to belong to the king of Siam, though manned by Chinese
sailors. The two Siamese were on shore when I visited
the vessel. The cargo consisted of Brazil wood for dyeing,
cocoa-nuts, and the general produce of the Straits of Ma-
lacca. At the end of the cabin, an altar, gayly decked out
with gilt ornaments, furnished an instance of the widely-
extended empire of superstition. At the period of my last
visit, before embarking for Shusan, I took with me a care-
fully-assorted package of tracts, which I hoped might event-
ually find their way to the kingdom of Siam. On my ap-
pearing on the deck, two Chinese were engaged in folding
some gilt paper into the shape of Sycee bullion, and mak-
ing other preparations for offerings to an idol placed before
the poop. I proceeded to the work of distribution, and
found several able and willing at once to peruse the books.
The two Chinese soon began to beat gongs, and to burn
the gilt paper before the idol, which was a signal for the
whole crew to assemble on the spot. After the completion
of some superstitious observances, they separated into little
groups, for their principal meal, in different parts of the
deck. The principal gong-beater patiently bore the inter-


INFLUENCE OF IDOLATRY. 167 ruption caused by my remonstrance, while his whole man-
ner showed, amid this outward display of offerings, how
feeble was the real hold of idolatry on his mind. On many
such occasions, the entire absence of any indication of
anger at having their prejudices shocked by a solitary for-
eigner could not but leave the general impression that it is
the force of custom, rather than a sense of the supernatu-
ral, which renders the practice of idolatry popular among
the Chinese. 


CHAPTER XIV. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF NINGPO. Topography—Local Magistrates—System of provincial Government—Dis-
grace and Ruin of former Mandarins—Effects of the British War on Rul-
ers and People—Attempt of the Chinese to recapture the City—Liter-
ary Reputation of Ningpo—Privileges of Scholars—Native Products and
Employments of Inhabitants—Former Splendor of the Place—Facilities
as a Missionary Station—Climate—Moral Condition of the People—Re-
capitulation. It may be convenient in this place to subjoin a general
description of the city of Ningpo, and the character of its
inhabitants, to the irregular accounts to be gathered from
the preceding journal. Ningpo is situated in north latitude
29° 55', and in east longitude 121° 22', and contained, in
former times, a European factory, which was brought to a
termination by the violent excesses of the foreigners and
the growing jealousy of the Chinese. It is the capital city
of a foo or department of that name, and is situated in the
province of Che-keang, of which the principal city is Hang-
chow, distant about eighty miles in a northwest direction.
At the latter place the governor of the province resides,
who is subordinate to the tsung-tuh, or viceroy of the united
provinces of Che-keang and Fokeen. Foo-chow, the cap-
ital of the latter province, is the seat of the viceregal gov-
ernment. Thus three of the five consular ports in China,
viz., Ningpo in Che-keang, and Foo-chow and Amoy in
Fokeen, are comprised in the government of the same vice-
roy. The local government of Ningpo consists of a taou-tai,
who, at the present time, is a mandarin of the third rank,
and a native of Nanking, named Ching che-ke. His gov


LOCAL MAGISTRATES. 169 erment may, for convenience of terms, be denominated a
prefecture, and includes, in addition to the department of
Ningpo, those also of Shaou-hing and Tai-chew, situated
respectively about sixty miles to the west and south of
Ningpo. The second magistrate in importance and power is the
chee-foo, whose authority extends over the department of
Ningpo alone. The present chee-foo is Le shoo-ling, a na-
tive of Shan-tung province, and an officer of the fourth
class. Each foo or department, also, is subdivided into a
certain number of heen or minor districts, each of which is
governed by a subordinate municipal officer named the che-
heen. This officer has two coadjutors or deputies, respect-
ively called the tso-tang and yew-tang (literally the "left
hall" and the "right hall"); the former being superior, and
occupying the hall on the left side of the courts of justice,
which side is the place of honor among the Chinese. As
the department of Ningpo contains six districts, there are, in
addition to the che-heen or district-magistrate of Ningpo
Proper, those also of Tze-ke, Fung-kwa, Teang-san, Chin-liai,
and Ting-hai, the capital of Chusan. The present che-heen
of Ningpo is a native of Fokeen, and an officer of the fifth
class, named Yih-kwan. So complete in all its detailed
ramifications is the organization of police, which 3000
years of national cohesion have consolidated into the pres-
ent system. The civil mandarins are never promoted to
the government of a district of which they are natives.
They can seldom speak the dialect of the place which they
govern, and are compelled, therefore, to employ an inter-
preter. From this diversity of local dialects has arisen the
general prevalence of the dialect of the imperial capital, as
the common medium of intercourse between the officers of
government throughout the empire. The nominal stipend
of the mandarins is small, and has given rise to many
abuses in the existence of bribes and extortions, by which
they contrive to raise themselves to a scale of affluence
P


170
CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE. commensurate with their rank.* Many of them are, nev-
ertheless, poor, and the furniture of their houses is generally
of an inexpensive kind. The events of the British war brought disgrace and ruin
on the mandarins who were then in power. The deposed
taou-tai, Loo ta-laou-yay, was with difficulty saved from
capital punishment by the petition of the inhabitants, and
was appointed, after degradation from all his honors and
emoluments, to assist the present taou-tai in his civic duties.
He is, however, slowly recovering the imperial favor, has
been partially restored to his former honors, and is likely to
become the che-heen of Tang-hai, on the cession of Chusan
by the British. The deposed che-foo, Shoo laou-yay, has
not been so fortunate. He has been deprived of all his honors, and is compelled, as a penalty for his cowardice in
fleeing from the city on the approach of the British troops,
to serve in the subordinate post of superintendent of the
repairs of the city wall. The deposed che-heen, Hwang
laou-yay, was still more severely punished, being banished
into the cold country in hopeless exile. The character of the inhabitants is a favorable specimen
of the Chinese population. In their intercourse with for-
eigners they generally evince a respectful and friendly
manner. It is, however, palpably evident, to the most cur-
sory observer, that fear is the principal feeling which in- * Stipends of mandarins, according to information derived from two inde-
pendent sources.
I. A LITERARY TEACHER, A SEW-
TSAl ADVANCED,
tsung-tuh . . 12,000 taels a-year
foo-yuen . . 10,000"
taou-tai . . 8000""
che-foo . . . 5000""
che-heen . . 3000""
II. A CHINESE GENTLEMAN
NAMED CHANG.
taou-tai . . 500 taels a-month
che-foo . . 250""
che-heen . . 150""
A tael is equal to about 6j. Bd. sterling. The above probably includes
some fees in addition to stipends actually paid from the government. Mak-
ing an allowance for the difference in the value of money, we may regard
the highest stipend as equal to £10,000 a-year in England.


ATTEMPT TO HECAPTURE THE CITY. 171
fluences them in their demeanor toward the western stran-
gers. Between the consular officers and the civic magis-
trates there has hitherto existed but little intercourse.
This, doubtless, arises in some degree from the fact that the
consulate is situated outside the city, and on the opposite
side of the river; so that natural impediments arise to the
frequent intercourse which exists in some of the other con-
sular cities of China. The events of the late war also en-
tailed so much disaster on the native authorities, that their
successors appear to make it their grand aim to prevent a
recurrence of hostilities, by seeking to avoid, as much as
possible, all opportunities of intercourse and occasions of
collision with foreigners. The people seem to entertain
similar feelings, and to regard the British as persons who
are not to be dealt with on the ordinary rules of social inter-
course, but to be disarmed of their formidable character by
the arts of management and adroitness. It is not strange
that this feeling has been excited, so detrimental to an ex-
alted estimate of our civilization. The city suffered but
little on its first capture, in 1841, by the troops, as no re-
sistance was offered. The attempt to regain the city, by a
sudden assault upon the British of a large body of Chinese
troops, changed the whole aspect of affairs. In the dead
of night they attacked the British sentries at the west
gate, and in large numbers scaled the adjacent wall. This
unexpected attack, however, brought a destructive carnage
on the assailants, and was the occasion of inflicting on the
city the rigorous measures of war, which the captors had
hitherto relaxed. The slaughter on this occasion was im-
mense; and an eye-witness relates, that, in the principal
naiTow street adjoining the scene of attack, piles of dead
were heaped one upon another from the sweeping destruc-
tion of a grape-shot cannonade. After this time the terms
of occupation were more severe. A per-centage was levied
on the estimated value of property in the city, which was
spared the horrors of an indiscriminate sacking. In spite


172
LITERARY REPUTATION.
of these adverse circumstances, the people are rapidly re-
covering from their panic; and a kind word from a foreign-
er is generally sufficient to insure for him a friendly recep-
tion. In no part of China are the people apparently more
alive to the influence of kindness. It is easy for a Euro-
pean living among them, and acting with but a common
degree of forbearance, to overcome prejudice, and gradu-
ally to win a favorable opinion for himself. Ningpo has the reputation of being the finest city on the
coast of China open to foreigners. Nor does it enjoy an
inconsiderable celebrity among the Chinese themselves, who
regard it as one of the most literary cities in the empire,
and inferior only to Soo-chow and Hang-chow in the re-
finement and taste of the people. An intelligent native
scholar gave me the following statistical information re-
specting the various classes of inhabitants which compose
the population of Ningpo. Of the people included within
the city walls he estimated four fifths to be engaged in
trade, merchandise, or labor. On the other hand, no less a
proportion than one fifth were calculated as belonging to
the literary class. This, however, not only included the
graduates and candidates for literary promotion, but also
the writers and clerks in the public offices. The successful
aspirants to degrees are invested with important civil privi-
leges, being subject, in most cases of a municipal nature, to
the literary chancellor of the province, to whom they can
appeal from the lower officers of government, so as to enjoy
a prescriptive right, which may, without danger of misap-
prehension, be termed "the benefit of clergy." In cases,
also, of oppression in their neighborhood, a memorial signed
by the literary graduates exerts a considerable influence in
rectifying abuses. A case of this kind recently occurred
at Ningpo, in which a native, after being unjustly subjected
to examination by torture, on suspicion of theft, was releas-
ed on the petition of four keu-jin of the district, through
whose influence the offending police were severely pun-


POPULATION DECAY OF NINGPO.
173
ished by the superior officers. Of the population in the
suburbs, and on the level plain extending to the hills, six
parts out of ten are estimated as deriving their livelihood
from agriculture, three parts as artisans of various kinds,
and the remaining tenth as consisting of fishermen "and boat-
men. The manufacture of carpets and mats furnishes em-
ployment to a large proportion of the people. The female
part of the population are employed, to a considerable ex-
tent, in weaving cloth. If the statement which was once
made by the present taou-tai be correct, that in Ningpo
there are 100,000 houses and shops assessed in taxes to the
government, even a moderate calculation must raise the
number of the population to nearly 400,000 persons. This,
however, will be considered a very large estimate, when
the extent of ground actually covered with buildings is
considered. The city is surrounded by a wall of about five
miles in circuit, through which there are six gates open-
ing into the suburbs, or upon the river. They are named,
respectively, the North, West, South, Spiritual Bridge,
East and Salt Gates, and have guard-stations erected over
them for soldiers. In some parts of the city a considerable
space of ground is occupied by gardens and tombs. The
latter are covered with shrubs and various species of the
melon-tribe, which gave a rural appearance to such locali-
ties within the walls. In the city there is an unusually
large proportion of temples and of spacious private build-
ings. The breadth, also, and cleanliness of the principal
streets give a favorable impression of the wealth and rank
of the inhabitants. The comparative facility, however, with
which houses can be rented within the city by foreigners,
the decay of many of the buildings, and the non-occupation
of others, furnish a proof that the city is rapidly losing its
former splendor and consequence. It is still a place of im-
portance, and has a considerable trade with Hang-chow
and Soo-chow in the interior. It has a large maritime
trade, also, with the province of Fokeen and the island of
p*


174 MORAL CONDITION OP THE PEOPLE. Formosa, from both of which sugar and rice are imported.
There is also an extensive trade with the province of Shan-
tung. There are about 3000 soldiers in the city, of whom
800 are cavalry. The greater part, however, of these con-
sists of a local militia. All the civil mandarins are of Chi-
nese descent—two of the military commandants being the
only Manchoo Tartars in authority. As a missionary station, Ningpo possesses independent
advantages, which exist only in a modified degree of each
of the other cities open to foreigners. Considered even in
itself, and apart from connection with other places, it pre-
sents a field of a peculiarly inviting character. Possessing
a climate which, as at Shanghai, is subject to extremes
of cold and heat—the range of the thermometer extending
from above 100° to as low as 8 or 10° below the freezing
point, in the different seasons of the year—it nevertheless
affords a reasonable prospect of salubrity to a European
constitution of ordinary physical strength. The character
of the people is such as their ignorance of the sanctions and
holy precepts of the Bible would lead us to expect. The
standard of morality is very low. There is a general disre-
gard of truth and honesty in all cases in which the means
of concealment exist. They are, however, a kind, peacea-
ble, and friendly people. In circumstances of extraordina-
ry provocation their quarrels seldom extend to personal
violence; and the simple food on which they subsist, to-
gether with the almost universal absence of intoxication,
renders them, even in the absence of religion, a gentle and
orderly population. As sensual pleasure presents itself as
the summit of human enjoyment to their minds, and money
furnishes its possessor with a command over the ordinary
sources of sensual gratification, the dollars of the foreigner
will be, as they ever have been, the great temptation,
against which the integrity of the natives is too weak to
stand. A foreigner who avoids the appearance of being
wealthy is safe among them. Their ideas, however, of the


MISSIONARY ASPECT.
175
correlative conditions of poverty and wealth differ consid-
erably from our own. It is particularly necessary—as, for
obvious reasons, in other parts of the world, so, also, espe-
cially in China—that the establishment and domestic ex-
penditure of missionary families should be rigidly economi-
cal, and that every thing be avoided which is calculated
to impress the natives with the wealth of the strangers.
Among a people to whom a few dollars are a great posses-
sion, it will be impossible for any class of Europeans to
appear otherwise than rich, in the absence of the ordinary
means of procuring a subsistence. Independently of the
temptations arising from the poverty of the people, the
most unbounded confidence may be placed in them. A
foreigner may, in the ordinary circumstances of peace, stray
alone several miles into the country around Ningpo; and
although curiosity may occasionally collect a throng, yet of
gratuitous cruelty and treacherous malice the people in
these parts evince no symptoms. They have sometimes
suffered from the overbearing conduct of individual for-
eigners; but the writer of these pages can state it to be his
unvarying experience, that a kind word ever found a ready
response from the natural feelings of the people. As a
missionary mingles with the good-humored villagers of
these more northern provinces, or holds intercourse with
the more intelligent inhabitants of the cities, he can not but
feel that the feeble philosophy of the natural man has here
achieved some of its highest conquests, as far as its limited
power can avail, in the absence of the sanctifying grace of
the gospel. It is, however, a sad counterpart to this pic-
ture, to reflect that the people are living only for this world,
without one defined idea of the future. Their prospects
are bounded by the narrow horizon of this life. Beyond
the grave every thing with them is unthought of, unknown,
and uncared for. Here, however, the missionary of the
cross has ready means of access to a people who are free
from most of the usual disquieting and contaminating influ-


176
RECAPITULATION.
ences of a large European trade and an extensive influx
of foreigners. When the local dialect has been acquired,
there lies before him a boundless field of daily missionary
work among an intelligent and well-disposed class of hear-
ers. The boundary regulations are favorable, foreigners
being permitted, without restriction as to time, to visit, or
even reside, in any part of the heen or district of Ningpo.
This extends on the southwest more than fifty miles, and
on the southeast includes, within the limits of the port, a
portion of the sea-coast, and the woodland hills of Teen
Tung. In other directions, the boundaries vary from five
to sixteen miles. The advantages of Ningpo may be summed up in a few
words of recapitulation. I. It affords a promising sphere of quiet missionary work
among a superior population, in one of the finest and larg-
est cities of the empire, without the deteriorating influ-
ences of an extensive trade with foreigners. II. It presents peculiar facilities for the planting of out-
stations, and for making periodical visits in the surrounding
country, as the growing exigencies of the mission may
hereafter render expedient. 


178 INTERVIEW WITH A ROMISH PADRE. with the signs of fertility, which every where met the eye.
The hills were covered with a loamy, sandy soil, which,
although scanty and shallow, yielded an abundant return
to the industry of the cultivator. Hedgerows, of regular
form, rose one above another up the hill-sides, and separa-
ted the different crops which luxuriated on their bosom.
There was, however, something very unnatural in the ap-
pearance of European barracks and sentries—of the red
coats and muskets of British soldiers—of the sable coun-
tenances and pliant limbs of the Indian sepoys—and of the
gay accoutrements of the military officers—which stood
out in bold relief from the general Chinese features of the
island, and reminded the beholder that the flag of British
law was waving over this oriental spot. The people seem-
ed resigned to a foreign rule; and their merry countenances
told how light was the burden of political care which set-
tled on their minds. Every gate of the city, and several
of the principal buildings, were occupied by sepoys, who,
inferior to their British companions in arms, seemed to de-
light in the idea of their own superiority to the Chinese,
and in occasional freaks of overbearing conduct. In addi-
tion to the Indian troops quartered in the city, nearly a
thousand European soldiers were located in the barracks,
distant about a mile, and adjoining the beach. The inter-
mediate space between the sea and the city of Ting-hai is
occupied by rice-fields, which are, in certain seasons of the
year, covered with water to the depth of six inches, and
give a marshy appearance to the soil. Before my departure from Chusan I was introduced to
M. Danicourt, a Roman Catholic missionary, with whom
I had some lengthened conversation. He had been for
ten years a professor of Latin in the Romish College at
Macao, from which place he came to Chusan three years
ago. In addition to his missionary work, he was employed
as a political agent of the French government. According to the information supplied to me by M. Dani-


SIMILARITY BETWEEN POI'EttY AND BUDHISM. 179 court, the Roman Catholic missionaries in China are sup-
ported, in part only, by European resources. In former
times there was a fund—instituted by Louis XIV.—for the
propagation of Christianity, from which the missionaries in
China received their entire support. But the troubles of
the French Revolution, and the spoliation of the Romish
Church by Napoleon, had been the means of abolishing
this endowment. The Society for the Propagation of the
Faith, formed twenty-three years ago, endeavored to sup-
ply the loss by an annual grant of 100 dollars to each mis-
sionary in China. This sum M. Danicourt considered to
be, under ordinary circumstances, sufficient, as each mis-
sionary itinerated in the interior from place to place, visit-
ing and instructing the Roman Catholic converts in whose
families he was a temporary guest. M. Danicourt said
that at Chusan he had found this sum insufficient, on ac-
count of the expenses of his chapel, to which, however, the
Roman Catholic soldiers had assisted in contributing. He
professed to number twenty-five native converts in Chusan,
exclusive of two Chinese missionaries resident in the island.
In the course of his conversation, he stated that the Roman
Catholic missionaries felt much dissatisfaction with the
Chinese government, on account of the attempt to conceal
the recent edict in favor of Christianity from the people in
the interior, who were still exposed to vexation on account
of their religion. The edict of toleration was so unexpect-
ed a departure from the antiquated policy of the govern-
ment, and so plain a proof of the growing influence of for-
eigners, that it is not extraordinary that the Chinese rulers
have for the present refrained from giving general publicity
to the document. M. Danicourt's opinion of the mandarins
and of the common people seemed not to be very high.
Of the latter he said that they were, amid all their bland-
ness and good humor, very deceitful and covetous, and that
"money was their god."
An honest Romanist priest must often be stumbled at the


180
ORIGIN OF BONZES.
similarity between the religious forms of Popery and those
of Budhism. The existence of monasteries and nunneries;the celibacy, the tonsure, the flowing robes and the pecu-
liar caps of the priesthood; the burning of incense, the
tinkling of bells, the rosaries of beads, the intonation of ser-
vices, the prayers in an unknown tongue, purgatory, and
the offerings for the dead in their temples; and above all,
the titles of their principal goddess," the Queen of Heaven,"
and " Holy Mother," represented by the image of a woman
with a male child in her arms, present features of mutual
resemblance which must strike every candid mind. Such
a remarkable similarity of details, although it may facili-
tate a transition from Budhism to Popery, must occasionally
give rise to perplexing comparisons. This subject is some-
times regarded as so full of difficulties, that in former times
a Romanist missionary declared, in the distress of his mind,
that Budhism must have been the rival system and master-
plot of Satan, to hinder the progress of the Christian faith.
Whether M. Danicourt felt any perplexity in the matter,
it was difficult to know. I was, however, inclined to sus-
pect as much, from the abrupt transition with which he
passed from previous topics of conversation to that of Budh-
ism. His information was amusing, and confirmatory of
some legends of which I had before heard. One of the ancient emperors of China had a remarkable
dream, which caused him some anxiety and distress. He
dreamed that he saw a man with a bow and two arrows,
who was to accomplish strange things, and whom it was
expedient to propitiate. Some interpreters of dreams were
consulted, one of whom said that the man represented the
character jin, \,; the bow represented the character
kung, ;and with the addition of the two arrows,
the whole symbol formed the character fuh, y or Budh,
a new deity lately imported from India. Another division
of the component parts of the character into the negative
fuh, on the right hand, and jin, A. a man on the left,
■


RETURN TO NINGPO. 181
gave the meaning, "not a man;" which corresponded also
with another part of the dream, intimating his superhuman
origin and power. The emperor then took measures for
discovering the idol, and setting apart a number of priests
to worship it. Hereupon a difficulty arose: the Chinese
refused to become priests, objecting that such a course was
opposed to the maxims of Confucius and the customs of
the empire. Many submitted to capital punishment in
preference to incurring the guilt of this impiety. At last
the emperor, in despair of finding honest men willing to
undertake the priesthood, made proposals to a number
of felons, convicted of murder, robbery, and other crimes.
The convicts were offered pardon, on condition of their en-
tering the Budhist temples, and consecrating themselves to
the idol's service in different parts of the country. In order
to prevent their subsequent escape from the temples, they
were compelled to shave their heads entirely. Being thus
easily known, their recapture and punishment would be
facilitated. Such, according to M. Danicourt, was the tra-
dition of the Chinese, confirmed by some of their old writ-
ings, respecting the origin and degradation of this wretched
class of men. I left Chusan on August 22d, having experienced during
my stay great kindness from the British residents, which
was doubly acceptable under the circumstances of my visit.
Embarking in a Chinese sailing-boat, with a fair wind and
favorable tide, we made a rapid passage to Ningpo, in a
little more than seven hours. During the first two nights after my return to Ningpo, I
could get but little sleep amid the continued sound of
drums, gongs, and flutes, caused by the superstitious ob-
servances prevalent among the people on the occasion of
the fang yen kow. This is the term used to denote the cer-
emonies performed in the seventh month of the Chinese
year, on behalf of departed spirits, in order to rescue them
from the Budhist purgatory. The rites are explained as Q


182 OFFERINGS TO DEPARTED SPIRITS. having originated in the supposed misery and poverty, in
the spiritual world, of such persons as had left behind no
surviving offspring or relatives to make the accustomed
offerings of gilt money and paper garments to their manes.
Lanterns are hung in all directions, platforms are erected
and covered with provisions, the hungry spirits are invited
to partake of a repast, and the people observe a kind of
vigil. A general subscription of money is raised for the
occasion; and the sum contributed by my boy was a rupee,
according to his own statement. The festival in honor of
the completion of the official residence of the taou-tai,
which had been rebuilt since the destruction of the public
buildings in the late war, gave an additional eclat to the
occasion. A Chinese gentleman in the neighborhood had
liberally supplied funds for the latter public work; and
was destined to receive, as his reward, advancement to the
nominal rank of a mandarin of the third class. This is the
more delicate way in which public honors are now virtually
put up for sale throughout the empire. The depraved class of Chinese, who had lately become
tenants of the house adjoining my own, on a subsequent
evening hired the attendance of some priests, who, for three
or four dollars, devoted the whole evening to singing a
number of dirges, on the occasion of the natal day of Te-
wang, the prince of the infernal regions. At this period of
the year popular superstition commemorates the release
of many spirits from their prison below, and their tempo-
rary admission into the upper regions, to receive the offer-
ings of food, garments, and money. The melancholy
chantings to the king of the infernal realms, and the offer-
ings of food to the spirits of the dead, are supposed to pos-
sess the meritorious efficacy of propitiating the imaginary
deity, and hastening the deliverance of their friends from
destitution in the other world. On the latter occasion, I
congratulated myself on their terminating the sound of the
bells, gongs, and discordant voices, at as early an hour as 


TAOUIST LAY BROTHER. 183 that of midnight. Cases of similar superstition are often to
be seen on the occurrence of sickness in a family. The in-
mates commence beating drums and gongs, and set out a
feast, in the superstitious belief that some deceased member
of the family is starving in the world below, and that, in
revenge of their neglect, his spirit has come to feed on the
body of the sick person. Hence they seek, by the bribe
of a feast, and the intimidation of sounds, to expel the un-
welcome author of their calamity. The educated Chinese
are often raised above the influence of these vulgar terrors;
but the empire of superstition is almost universal. On August 25th I went to reside for a few days with
two missionary friends lodging in the Taouist monastery,
near the north gate of the city. The room which served
as my dormitory adjoined a large hall, in which worship
was wont to be paid to the idol of the god of literature by
those persons who were ambitious of literary honors. In
another part of the temple were situated the different halls,
in which the gods of the seasons, and the numerous other
divinities of the Taou sect, were enthroned. The only
male worshiper whom I observed, on my first visit to the
principal hall, was one of the lay brothers of the Taou sect.
They form an intermediate class between the Taouist
monks and the common people, and are not bound to the
observance of celibacy, or a monastic life. The lay brother
was engaged in hurrying through a repetition of senseless
words, and beating time on a hollow, ornamented sounding-
board. He did not, however, seem to experience any de-
votional feeling; as, on my entrance, he arose, welcoming
me with polite bowings, but continuing his recitations.
The lay brothers seek to make themselves perfect in the
repetition of these forms, till they have obtained sufficient
knowledge to qualify them for traveling in the neighbor-
hood, and hiring out their services on the various supersti-
tious occasions which may occur in private families. A
friend of the lay brother was waiting near, and followed


184
SALT MONOPOLY.
us about the temple precincts, offering many civilities,
some of which betrayed the avaricious spirit by which he
was influenced. The few women, who were worshiping
when I entered belonged to a superior class, being arrayed
in beautiful dresses, and attended by their ammahs. As
soon as I made my appearance, they affected great mod-
esty, and, with half-turned faces and half-suppressed smiles,
quietly took their departure, with as much haste as their
tottering steps and limping gait permitted. During the five
days of my residence in the Confucian portion of the tem-
ple, no Chinese were observed to come for worship. Some-
times, in the portions of the temple belonging to the Taou-
ists, the gongs and monotonous voices of the priests were
to be heard. Every morning, in an opposite garden, an
old woman made her appearance outside her cottage,
kneeling and uttering her customary number of formal rep-
etitions, with loud and impassioned voice. The Taouist
abbot was advanced in years, and his fierce and irascible
temper had been somewhat subdued by the infirmities of
age. Both the abbot and the priests were very desirous of
cultivating our acquaintance, and sometimes rendered them-
selves unwelcome visitors to our apartments by the length
of time during which they remained. The Taouist monks
are less numerous, and appear to be less diligent in their
superstitious observances, than the Budhist monks. They
also seem to be in better repute with the literary class.
The principal mark by which they may be distinguished
from the Bonzes, is the peculiar tuft into which their hair
is bound on the crown of the head. On August 28th I was accompanied by a friend on a
visit to the flower-garden of Kang laou-yay, a gentleman
of great wealth. He had realized a large fortune in the
monopoly of salt, which he purchased, on speculation, from
the government. The payment for the monopoly is made
to the government in taels of silver; and the money re-
ceived for the sale of salt, from the people, is paid in cop-


VISIT TO A NATIVE DOCTOR. 185 per-cash. But as silver is very scarce at the present time,
and the copper-cash is proportionably depreciated in value,
the salt monopoly has been, of late, a source of great loss
to the monopolists, and some of the wealthiest salt-mer-
chants have been reduced from affluence to comparative
indigence. Kang, however, still retained some proofs of
wealth, in the general taste and arrangements of his garden,
the variety of his plants and flowers, and the expensive
furniture of the rooms through which we passed. The im-
itation of rocks and caverns, though on a small scale, had
a pretty and pleasing effect. At the end of a little pond,
covered with the lotus-flower, there stood a large cage, con-
taining a fine stork, which the tradition of the family stated
to be above a hundred years old. The old gentleman him-
self was above eighty years of age, and was very deaf.
He told us of the recent visit of an Englishman, who had
begged so importunately for a rare flower which he pos-
sessed, that, though it cost him ten dollars, he had present-
ed it to the foreigner. He seemed to be very dissatisfied
with the return-present of a microscope, which, though a
liberal recompense, he termed "a very little thing." As
we were sitting together, a number of Chinese ladies were
looking through a window from the adjoining room. The
slightest glance in that direction was sufficient to cause
them to disperse on either side of the apartment, till curi-
osity led them to brave another view of our foreign features,
even at the expense of Chinese etiquet. After our departure from the mansion of Kang laou-yay,
we paid our respects to a medical practitioner, named
Chang, who resided on the opposite side of the same street.
Among the various inscriptions and specimens of Chinese
caligraphy which adorned the rooms in which we sat, was
a scroll which announced that the doctor possessed the
requisite skill for healing a hundred diseases. In the Brit-
ish war he acted as a spy, and was the bearer of several
semi-official messages from the mandarins at Ningpo to the


186
MOHAMMEDAN SHOPKEEPER. British at Chusan. He rendered some services to the lat-
ter, and contracted an acquaintance with several English
gentlemen, whose letters and cards he showed satisfaction
in exhibiting. The old man had, however, shared the usual
lot of such persons, and was slighted both by the English,
who resisted his rude acts of inquisitiveness, and by the
Chinese, who regarded his patriotism with suspicion. His
medical practice was not of a lucrative kind, if a judgment
might be formed from the signs of straitened income appa-
rent in his house. His peculiar department of Chinese
surgery was acupuncture, by which he professed an ability
to perform cures for rheumatism and similar diseases. At
the time of our visit he was eking out his scanty means of
subsistence by instructing three pupils, who were present
in the room with us. Finding that I wished to visit Foo-
chow before the close of the year, and that I experienced
much difficulty in obtaining a European vessel bound for
that port, he was very urgent in advising me to go in a
Fokeen junk, and volunteered himself to accompany me
as a protector. He proposed that I should proceed from
Foo-chow, in Chinese costume, by an overland route to
Amoy, and volunteered his aid in effecting such an arrange-
ment. As we returned to the monastery, we entered, for a few
minutes, the shop of a native of Shantung, whom we dis-
covered to be a Mohammedan, and though able to speak
Chinese, to be ignorant of the written character. The
whole sect appear to devote their studies exclusively to
their own sacred language, the Arabic. His bold features,
prominent nose, and restless eye, confirmed the fact of the
distinct origin of this descendant of Ishmael. I always felt a
sympathy with the poor, dispersed disciples of Islam in this
pagan wild, and regarded their denunciation of idols, and
their worship of one God, as a comparative approximation
to our own religion in the midst of a people enslaved either
by superstition or by atheism. It was a source of contin-


OPIUM MEDICINE VISIT TO A BUDHIST NUNNERY. 187 ual regret to my mind that their ignorance of the Chinese
written character prevented their deriving instruction from
our Christian publications. Aug. 30th.—The houses of the foreign community at
Ningpo being situated principally in the little suburb on
the opposite side of the river, I had frequent occasion to
hire the services of some Chinese boatmen to take me
across the river in their ferry-boats. On this and the pre-
ceding eveniugs, as I crossed the river, the boatmen ur-
gently begged, me to give them some medicine for curing
them of the effects of smoking opium. The poor wretches
betrayed, by their haggard looks and sickly countenances,
the dreadful ravages which the indulgence of this destruc-
tive habit had produced on their constitution. They said
that they were poor; and, pointing to their tattered rai-
ment and emaciated limbs, implored me to give them the re-
quired medicine, which they had heard that my countrymen
possessed. They appeared to be impatient of any delay,
and requested me to fix a day for them to call at my house
and receive the medicine. My boy told them the place of
my abode, and I afterward wrote a note, containing a recom-
mendation of their case, to a medical missionary, who, by
tonics and other remedies, endeavors to invigorate the con-
stitution against the prostrating effects, on the nervous sys-
tem, produced by the disuse of the long-accustomed stim-
ulus. On Sept. 2d I went with a friend to visit the nunnery
adjoining my house, dedicated to the Budhist "Queen of
Heaven" or "Goddess of Mercy." The literal translation
or her latter title, "hearing the cries of the world," indi-
cates the presence of more amiable attributes than most of
their popular deities are represented as possessing. Six
nuns resided within the building, supported by an endow-
ment and occasional gifts from worshipers. We remained
about an hour, during which the old abbess served to us
some sweetmeats and fruits, which she placed before us


188
A NATIVE PAWNBROKER. with her own hands, selecting the kinds which she deemed
most palatable. For this we afterward had to make a
present, which the feast was a delicate way of extorting
from us. The nuns were generally women of coarse man-
ners and unprepossessing appearance. The abbess pos-
sessed a masculine spirit, and from time to time issued some
command to five or six servant-men in the court, some of
whom were engaged in cleaning raw cotton, and others in
making garments. There were, also, two little nuns, of
about four or five years of age, who enjoyed one compen-
sation for their dedication to the temple-service, in being
permitted to possess feet of the natural size and growth.
The dress of the nuns was very like that of a Budhist monk,
their heads being entirely shaven, and their principal gar-
ment consisting of a loose, flowing robe. The abbess wore
a black silk cap over her crown, in the center of which
was a hole, through which her bare head was perceptible.
As she dangled her rosary of beads on her arm, she made
many inquiries about an English missionary, who, about
two years ago, lodged for a month in the nunnery. At this
time there were a few Chinese lodging in the building,
such institutions being frequently converted to the purposes
of an hotel. On our return through the Tung-mun-keae, we were en-
gaged for some time in a pawnbroker's shop, in examining
some articles of curiosity which had found their way into
his possession. Among these was an old bell, about a
hundred pounds in weight, and having a large number of
Chinese characters beautifully engraven on it. It gave a
tolerably harmonious and agreeable sound, and had been
brought hither, to be pawned, from a Budhist nunnery in
the neighboring town of Tze-ke. There was also another
article pawned from the same institution, an idol of the
goddess of mercy, made of bronze, and about ten inches in
height. This he wanted to sell for two dollars and a half.
It is scarcely possible to stroll into the adjacent streets 


VISIT TO HIS EXCELLENCY THE TAOU-TAI. 189 without meeting continual indications of the real skepticism
and atheism of the Chinese, amid all their apparent defer-
ence to the religious customs of their country. On Sept. 3d I went with some friends to visit the princi-
pal mandarin in Ningpo, usually styled the taou-tai. Due
notice had been given some hours previously, and there
were circumstances attending our visit which insured a
polite reception from his excellency. We were borne in
chairs along the streets to the ya-mun, or public offices, in
which the taou-tai was then residing. As we approached
the large folding-doors, leading into the first of a number
of spacious courts, a gong was struck, which was immedi-
ately answered by other gongs and a bell from within. At
the same time a native piper commenced playing a noisy
air, accompanied by a kind of cymbal, to do honor to us
as we passed. As door opened within door, we saw signs
of bustle and activity among the numerous attendants, till
our sedan-chairs were set down on a pavement at the bot-
tom of a little flight of steps leading into a vestibule. Here
the great man, Ching ta jin, descended to welcome us; and
after a good deal of bowing and other salutations, we were
conducted to a reception-hall, where we were invited to
take our seats. But preliminary matters of etiquet had to
be settled, which occupied some time. The taou-tai would
not occupy the highest seat on the left side, the place of
honor, and the members of our little party affected like
humility. One pressed the other, and tried to lead him into
the uppermost seat, which gentle attempt the other as
gently resisted. Under ordinary circumstances this would
have been fatiguing, but in the excessive heat of the sum-
mer it was doubly irksome; and matters were at last ab-
ruptly brought to a satisfactory adjustment by one of our
party coolly occupying the highest seat, and thus termina-
ting the debate. One of our friends was a fluent speaker
of Chinese, and acted as our spokesman. The taou-tai's
cap of authority, which was ornamented with the usual


190 RECEPTION LITERARY DEGREE.
knob or button of a light-blue color, indicating his rank as
being of the third of the nine orders of mandarins, was
now taken from his head and handed to an attendant, who
placed it in a conspicuous part of the room. Soon after,
another servant came to his bidding to assist in removing
his upper garment of blue silk; and as, notwithstanding
the heat, we had paid his excellency the compliment of
appearing in woolen coats, we gladly availed ourselves of
his invitation to put off the encumbrance, and sat during the
rest of our visit in our shirt-sleeves. The room did not
afford the signs of any great wealth in the proprietor, the
furniture being simple and substantial, rather than elegant.
A number of servants were standing outside, and some-
times, in their eagerness to see and listen, pressed around
the door. A wave of the hand from their master once or
twice seemed to remove them to a little distance on either
side; but when he subsequently sat so as to have his back
toward them, they quietly returned, and their number was
increased by the addition of several others eager to satisfy
their curiosity. After we had taken tea, the signs of prep-
aration for a morning collation were apparent in the vari-
ous dishes brought and set out on a table in the center
of the room. On the announcement being made that all
was ready, the same ceremony and delay as to precedence
took place. The taou-tai took his seat at the lowest end
of the table. As our meal proceeded, he reverted to former
topics, especially to our literary degrees. As I had been
introduced as a literary teacher, he now inquired what lit-
erary degree in my own country I had attained. My friend
very inconsiderately replied that I was the same as a tsin-
sze, i. e., the second of the four Chinese literary degrees, to
which Chin ta jin had himself attained. The taou-tai then
commenced congratulating me on the felicity of my lot in
getting literary promotion at so early an age. He proceed-
ed to take a strict survey of my physiognomy, and made
some remarks on my personal appearance. At last, fortu-


A CHINESE ENTERTAINMENT. 191 nately for our preservation of gravity, the conversation was
led to the subject of literary examinations and degrees in
China, on which he was very lengthened in his observa-
tions. Meanwhile we endeavored to do honor to the dishes,
which in rapid succession were placed before us, our host
helping us from each dish with the chop-sticks with which
he himself was eating. A kind of spirit, distilled from rice,
was poured out into small cups and saucers and placed before
us. Deference had been paid to our foreign palates, and,
in addition to the usual routine of Chinese dainties, small
slices of ham, beef, duck, and fowl were served on the ta-
ble. Plovers' eggs, nuts, sweetmeats, formed also portions
of our repast. Our host continually watched our saucers,
and replenished them, from time to time, with what he deem-
ed the choicest morsels. Once or twice we ventured to act
on our own choice, and to taste some of the unknown dishes;
but we quickly came to the decision that it was better to trust
to his selection. At last we were tired with the number
of dishes, which one after another made their appearance.
But it was to no purpose that he was informed that we
had eaten a sufficient quantity. He begged to assure us
that the repast would soon be over; and our apologies for
occasioning him so much expense only made him insist
more rigorously on our remaining till the end. During this time an animated discussion took place on
the subject of foreign customs. He again reverted to the
subject of my literary degree, and inquired my family
name. This was altered to suit the Chinese sounds, and
written Sze-mei. He then asked my personal name, which
he tried in vain to pronounce, saying it took four Chinese
characters to write it. He made several ineffectual at-
tempts to catch the sound George, changing it to Ji-ah-le-
jih. At last, in despair of mastering the outlandish sounds,
he ceased from the attempt, and, falling back in his large
chair, gave a hearty, prolonged laugh. Then he inquired 


192 TOPICS OF CONVERSATION. of my friend respecting the koo-wan, or ancient classical lit-
erature of our country. This led to his being informed of the
gradual improvement of our native tongue—the comparative-
ly recent date of English literature—the stores of ancient
learning imported from Greece and Rome—the prevalence
of Latin as the general medium of communication between
the literati of Europe—and the different races who succes-
sively peopled Britain. To all these topics he listened with
attention, bringing frequent illustrations from similar events
in the history of China. He afterward inquired about some
European country by a name which we had never before
heard. On our further listening to his pronunciation of the
word, we discovered the name to be a strange combination
of sounds, intended for Denmark. Afterward the current
of topics flowed to America and its twenty-six states: the
separation of the United States from Britain in the last
century, their common descent and language, their com-
mercial rivalry and political emulation, the number of an-
nual emigrants from Britain to America the process of
clearing away forests and preparing the soil for cultivation,
the enterprising character of American merchants, and the
political supremacy of Britain. He made some inquiries
respecting the causes of emigration, and of the willingness
of the British merchants to come to so distant a country
as China. He continually responded, sometimes giving a
hearty laugh, and not in the slightest degree affecting an
appearance of gravity. He mentioned his having been
formerly sent on a special mission by the Chinese govern-
ment to the country of Mongolia, and spoke of the cold
temperature and the forests as probably resembling those
of America. At length, after many unavailing attempts to rise from
the table, which he as often prevented, we were enabled to
make preparations for our departure. During our stay of
more than an hour, he showed us the usual marks of polite-
ness and courtesy. As his jurisdiction extended over three 


THE DEPOSED TAOU-TAI HIS MISFORTUNES. 193 of the eleven departments into which the province of Che-
keang is divided, he was an officer of some consequence,
and ruled a territory as large as Scotland. He was appa-
rently about fifty-six years of age, and his manners were
commanding and graceful. In spite of our remonstrances,
he insisted on accompanying us to our sedans, and we took
our departure with the same ceremony, and amid the same
noise of piping and gongs, as greeted us on our entrance. Our next visit was to the deposed taou-tai, Loo ta-laou-
yay. We passed through a long covered area, filled with
tables and benches, which, in my ignorance, I conjectured
to be intended for some public feast. I soon, however, as-
certained that this was the literary examination-hall, where
900 candidates for the sew-tsai degree could be accommo-
dated at one time with seats, and materials for writing their
themes. At the other end was situated the temporary but
elegant apartments assigned to the disgraced officer. He
received us with smiles of good-humored politeness, and
with at least the semblance of cordiality. Here how differ-
ent a scene lay before us! The cloud of sorrow which
saddened his features, and the dark gloom which hovered
over his spirits, proclaimed the misfortunes of the deposed
ruler, whose hand, in the golden hour of prosperity, all
would have hastened to greet; but who now, beneath the
frown of imperial displeasure, was condemned to assume
the cares, without the honors or emoluments, of civic au-
thority. His only crime was the love of life. On the ap-
proach of a conquering enemy, he joined in the universal
flight of the citizens. Not being a military mandarin, he
could have offered no successful resistance by awaiting the
national foe. Nevertheless, in the judgment of the emper-
or, he ought to have fallen at his post; and in order to de-
ter the mandarins from a similar betrayal of their trust, Loo
ta-laou-yay had been stripped of his rank and office, and, amid
a band of faithful attendants, mourned in secret over his hu-
miliation and fall. He wore a knob of white, the decora-
It


194 PUBLIC INTEGRITY AND INTELLIGENCE. tion of the sixth class of mandarins, having, since the peace,
been restored to a portion of his former honors. His age
exceeded sixty years, and his form stooped a little beneath
the weight of his afflictions. He is reported to possess pri-
vate wealth, and to be no longer desirous of restoration to
political power, which, however, the approaching cession
of Chusan by the British is said to render probable. He
was greatly superior to the ruling taou-tai in knowledge
and intelligence, and tried to look cheerful in the animated
conversation which ensned. His laugh, however, was less
hearty, and his manner possessed less of vivacity. His
private worth and public integrity may be inferred from the
petition of the inhabitants, by whose exertions alone he was
released from impending capital punishment. The eight
years of gratuitous service imposed on him by the emperor
were nearly half accomplished; and his probable restora-
tion after this probation, to his former office, would be
hailed with universal satisfaction by the people. The im-
perial government of China is fickle in its bestowal of fa-
vors and severe in its infliction of penalties. Old Loo is
therefore, perhaps, more happy in his present position than
in the dangerous elevation of magisterial power. Here
most of the scenes recurred which took place at the taou-
tai's. A luncheon was again set out, of which we partook
for the sake of civility. Every five minutes an attendant
brought a water-pipe, through the gurgling tube of which
Loo inhaled the fumes of tobacco, emitting them from his
mouth and nostrils with ludicrous composure. The only
thing that raffled the calm serenity of his countenance was
our inexperience in the use of the chop-sticks. He enter-
ed into conversation on the topic of foreign coinage, and the
mode of assaying silver, in gathering the particulars of
which, as well as the relative value of the several kinds of
dollars, he was very particular. The mention of Mexican
and Peruvian dollars led to the subject of Spain and her
early conquests in South America. Beyond the occasional 


CALAMITIES OF THE BRITISH WAR. 195 recollection of names, both he and the taou-tai seemed to
possess scarcely any geographical knowledge of western
nations All appeared to them one great wild of unknown
regions; and they seemed to remember only a few names
of countries strangely altered and adapted to the monosyl-
labic poverty of the Chinese language. We passed an
hour very pleasantly with Loo ta-laou-yay. He attended
us, with the usual marks of civility, to our chairs on our de-
parture. Here I felt, in much of their sad reality, the evils
of war, and the calamities which it inflicts. The country
of the men whom he now honored as his guests had been
the occasion of his ruin and disgrace. The outward show
of respect with which he received our visit must have been
utterly at variance with the inward feelings of his heart.
The cases of individual suffering which the British war has
inflicted on many thousands of innocent victims in the cen-
tral provinces of China render the precious boon of Chris-
tianity a debt doubly due from Britain to this benighted
land. 


CHAPTER XVI. SECOND EXCURSION TO TEEN-TUNG. Animated Appearance of Country—Ancestral Temples—Contributions to
a Bag for Idols—Chinese Agriculture—Gratuitous Travelers' Rest—Drag-
on-Boats— Budhist Vigils in Monastery — Exploratory Visit to distant
Villages—Illiterate Priests—Inquiring Spirit of a Tea-Farmer—Friendli-
ness of the Abbot—Hospitality of the Villagers—Grace to an Idol—Pro-
cess of consulting the Idols—Ascent of the " Tae-pih-san" Ridge—Enter-
tainment by a Chinese Gentleman—Return to Ningpo. The heat at Ningpo being still very oppressive, I was
again under the necessity of seeking a cooler temperature,
in the hilly region which skirts the plain of Ningpo. Ac-
cordingly, on September 15th, I set out on my second visit
to the monastery of Teen-tung, accompanied only by my
Chinese boy. I was carried in a chair, about a mile and a
half through the city, to a retired part of the eastern sub-
urbs. Here, on a little lake, entirely surrounded by shops
and warehouses, was the boat which was engaged to con-
vey me and my boy, with a few articles of provision, to-
ward our place of destination. As soon as I made my ap-
pearance the boatman became excited, and was quickly
involved in a quarrel with my boy. On discovering that
the boat was hired to convey a foreigner, the boatman
wanted to raise the sum agreed upon between him and my
boy some hours before, when no mention had been made
by the latter that his master was a foreigner. A long and
angry altercation ensued between them, and a crowd was
soon attracted toward the spot in which we were. To a per-
son unacquainted with the Chinese temperament, the dan-
ger of a serious personal encounter between them would
have appeared imminent; but their excited gestures and
impassioned tones were carefully restrained within the lim-
its of caution, and no assault was committed. As soon as 








ANCESTRAL TEMPLES CONTRIBUTIONS TO IDOLS. 199 this preliminary difficulty was overcome, we proceeded
along the canal, amid a multitude of boats laden with peo-
ple, who were bringing vegetables and provisions to mar-
ket. These canals are the only mode of transit, for heavy
commodities, from one part of the country to another.
About a mile from the city, the country begins to assume a
very pretty appearance, and to the native mind presents
many associations of interest and awe in the multitude of
tombs which enshrine the remains of their forefathers. We
passed a number of sze tang, or " ancestral halls," some of
which belonged respectively to the Cheang, the Woo, the
E, the Ju, and the Sze families. These various clans re-
side within the city, and have a common right to the an-
cesttal halls, in which the tablets commemorative of their
departed ancestors are ranged in order, according to their
generations. Little temples continually succeeded each
other every mile, with two or three Bonzes sauntering
about the entrance. A bag, fastened to a long pole, so as
to reach to the boats which were passing by, was held out
from some of the temples, in order to receive the offerings
of the devout. Every boat contributed a few copper coins
to the sacred bag for the idol, on receiving which the agents
of the institution commenced sounding a gong, by way of
celebrating their offerings. In each of the bags I depos-
ited, as my gift, a few Christian books on the sin of wor-
shiping idols. The people in the suburbs were very de-
sirous of receiving books, and followed the boat some time
after I ceased from distributing them. One man, in his
anxiety to catch a book, lost his balance, and fell into the
canal. We soon passed from the suburbs into the open country,
which was covered with crops of rice and other grain. But
here agricultural scenes were somewhat different from those
in other lands. Instead of the fresh breezes of autumn, and
the inhalations of the pure country air, the rice-fields and
gardens gave forth most offensive odors, caused by the ma-


V
200 DRAGON-BOATS TRAVELERS* REST.
nure with which the ripening crops were covered. Boats
passed and repassed laden with this disagreeable cargo.
Not a particle of refuse is lost by this people, who place
large jars and vessels in every corner of their villages to
receive these seeds of fertility and wealth. It is by a sys-
tem of manure and irrigation that the poorest soils are
forced, year after year, to produce two annual crops, sus-
taining an amount of population which few other countries
could, in their present state, support. The economy of
soil every where perceptible, combined with the fact of
the early age at which every person is married, give prob-
ability to the largest estimate of the population of China. As we approached the terminus of the canal, the usual
signs of a village holyday were visible, in the approach of
two boats, which were either preparing for a race to con-
test their relative speed, or about to perform some act
of traditionary superstition. Each boat was manned by
twenty men, who bore paddles gaudily ornamented with
paint, and were decked out in a fancy costume, with col-
ors and dress to distinguish their boats. A man stood up-
right beating a drum, to the time of which they adapted
their strokes. The bridges were very numerous, and generally bore
inscriptions intimating the date of their erection. They
were formed of steps projecting inward one beyond an-
other, so as to cause the sides of the bridges gradually to
approach each other at the top. Large, flat slabs of stone
were laid across, forming the highest point of junction.
Only one bridge built with a regular arch crossed the ca-
nal. Every three or four miles there was a building in
which travelers are permitted to rest, and tea is supplied
gratuitously at the expense of some wealthy and benevolent
individuals. Some of the working-people were resting un-
der the cool shade of these buildings, and refreshing them-
selves with this gratuitous beverage as we passed in our
boat. The benevolent supporters of these institutions find








BUDHIST VIGILS AND MONASTERY. 203 their reward in the respect entertained toward them during
life, and in the honors paid to their memory after death.
Lofty stone arches, with public inscriptions, testified, in
every hamlet, the frequency of such instances of liberality
and worth. I landed at a little village near the terminus of the canal,
and proceeded, in a chair, over the hills to the Budhist
monastery at Teen-tung. About sunset I was domiciled
in some apartments, which I was permitted to appropriate
to my use, in one of the quadrangles of the monastery.
My luggage was deposited in the inner room, in which I
slept, leaving my boy to occupy the outer room. In the
latter was a large idol, which brought us occasional visits
from some of the worshipers. One of the earliest visitors
was a priest, who, after lighting a few fragrant sticks and
presenting them to the idol, bowed down before it, knock-
ing his head three times against the ground. The fre-
quent sounds of bells and gongs during the night deprived
me of those peaceful slumbers which I might have expect-
ed to obtain in a more favorable situation. These vigils
of the Budhist monks were far from being calculated to
soothe the mind. On such a spot, however, feelings of
thankfulness were sometimes more vividly realized than
elsewhere at the remembrance of that grace which alone
makes a Christian to differ from the heathen around him. Sept. 16th.—I was disturbed at an early hour by a priest
groaning in the anteroom, and uttering doleful sounds, as
he prostrated his body before the hideous idol, after re-
lighting the perfume-sticks. I remonstrated with the poor
creature, who, with a vacant stare, asked me whether there
were no Budhist priests in my own country, and what idols
we worshiped. I gave him a tract, which he was unable
to read, and which I therefore received again. In the after-
noon I passed through some of the lesser temples, in which
a few priests were performing their customary mummeries.
I was at length attracted to the principal temple, in which


J404 IDOLATROUS SERVICES GODS DETHRONED.
about thirty priests were engaged in celebrating the even-
ing service. The abbot stood in the center with his face
toward a colossal idol, at the distance of a few yards. A
number of priests were marshaled in a row at a little dis-
tance on either side. At the tinkling of a bell they com-
menced a chant in slow time, and gradually increased in
rapidity of utterance, as the quick beating of a hollow
sounding-board led to an equally quick articulation of their
unmeaning sounds, sometimes in a rehearsing, and at other
times in a singing tone. Some of the priests, while repeat-
ing the sounds, secretly held out their hands toward me,
making signs for some of the books which I carried under
my arm. At length they all bowed down for some minutes
before the idol, with their muffled faces on the ground.
The sight of such an instance of delusion overcame all hes-
itation on my part; and proceeding at once into the tem-
ple, I passed between the rows of priests, and placed a
tract before each of them, as they lay on the pavement
beating their heads. The tract contained a remonstrance
against the sin of idolatry, and was written by a Chinese
Christian, Leang Afa, himself a convert from idolatry. In the evening I proceeded to an out-temple distant a
few hundred yards, where two priests were stationed.
They appeared to take pleasure in exhibiting the ugly
little idols which were enshrined within the principal hall.
As I remonstrated with them, in the presence of many
other persons, on their folly in asking me to worship such
senseless blocks, I proceeded to point to the idols with my
umbrella; whereupon the principal idol soon gave way to
the force with which, in my carelessness, I poked its various
parts. The whole assemblage burst into a loud laugh, on
which I was emboldened to show how little the other idols
could help themselves. As I gave them a slight thrust they
trembled, tottered, and tumbled from their thrones. The
people again laughed heartily, as the priests tried for some
time in vain to make one of the idols maintain its sitting 


EXPLORATORY VISIT TO DISTANT VILLAGES. 205 posture, the fall having disordered its component parts.
Thinking that this liberty might put their good humor to
too severe a test, I became more serious in my manner,
and spoke of the wrath of God on those who thus dishonor
his name. The only intelligible reply which I received
was, that it was the Chinese custom to worship idols. In
an adjoining room were a number of pikes lying in differ-
ent directions. With these the priests arm themselves in
case of robbery or depredation on the bamboo-plantations,
which are an important source of income to the monastery. Sept. 17th.—I set out, in a chair, on a visit to a part of
the country distant about five miles, and previously unex-
plored by Europeans. As I was leaving the monastery,
I met some women, who were coming to the temple to
worship the idols. I gave them a few books to take to their
homes, which they were at first unwilling to receive, and
requested to know how much money they were to pay for
them. The first large village through which I passed had
never before been visited by a western foreigner, and I was
consequently an object of eager curiosity to the old, and of
unmingled terror to the young. As I was carried through
the long street of the village, the children on all sides hur-
ried away, screaming with fright, to their mothers. In the
police of this district, the principle of self-government
seemed to be carried out in its fullest extent. In every
place there were some elder men elected as the responsi-
ble heads of the village. There was no mandarin at any
place nearer than Ningpo. The revenue was collected by
a resident officer at each place, termed a te-paou, who, be-
yond the collection of the land-tax, possessed no authority,
and received for his services about double a working-
laborer's pay. The principal proprietor was a tea-grower,
whose little farm lay on the adjoining hills. He was disap-
pointed at my inability to give him a book, my stock being
exhausted. One little group of men sought to obtain some
tracts; but on my testing the extent of their scholarship, I 


206 APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. ascertained that not one of them could read. One of them,
however, made a few unsuccessful attempts to guess at the
sounds of the characters on the title-page. Many who
asked for books were unable to pass this ordeal of reading
the title-page, and showed disappointment at meeting with
a consequent refusal of their request. At the top of one of
the hills was a resting-place, with the usual appendage of
an idol, under a long shed. An old priest, who had charge
of the building, brought some tea, of which I partook.
He endeavored to raise himself in my estimation by telling
me that his daughter was married to an Englishman. A
bystander hereupon whispered into my ear that the priest
had sold his daughter for two or three hundred dollars.
Before becoming priests, some of the monks have engaged
in secular affairs, and brought up families of children; the
death of a wife being, in cases of poverty, sometimes an oc-
casion of the husband retiring to a monastery for an easy
subsistence. The farthest of the hills, to which I extended
my visit, afforded a view of the sea from its summit. The
neighboring hills were named the Yang-so san, the Hwang-
ge san, the Woo-ge san, and the Pow-tai san. A number
of rocky islets were dotted about at a little distance from
the shore, and a few fishing-craft were in sight. A marine
village lay beneath us, called the Yang-haou keae. Although
I was at the distance of twenty-five miles from any other
foreigner, the people were every where friendly, peaceable,
and apparently pleased with my visit. I was dependent
on the services of two Chinese chair-bearers, whom I had
never seen but once before. The same civility was per-
ceptible every where as I returned. In the evening, as I passed through one of the large tem-
ples by a shorter way, one of the priests, possessing more
than a usual share of impudence, urged me to comply with
the usual custom of making obeisance to the large idol. I
remonstrated with him on the absurdity of his wishing me
to worship a thing made of wood and stone. He slunk


FRIENDLINESS OP THE ABBOT.
207
away half ashamed. A young priest, of about eighteen
years of age, watched his exit, and, approaching me, said,
probably with the view of ingratiating himself in my favor,
Sze-mei seen-sang pai poo-suh puh haou teih, "Smith, teach-
er, it is a bad thing to worship idols." I gave him a tract;
but found again, to my disappointment, that he could not
read, and was practically removed beyond the means of
instruction. The tea-farmer, whom I met at the village of San-dang-
dow, visited me the next morning, having come three miles
to obtain the books which I promised him. His visiting-
card of pink paper bore the names, Jin ting-yuen, and he
stated his age to be fifty-three years. He stated that his vil-
lage consisted of about ninety houses, and that the inhabitants
were engaged in agricultural pursuits, raising crops of rice,
and a herb called teen-tsing, which is extensively used for
dyeing blue. Neither wheat nor cotton was grown in the
vicinity. Large quantities of green tea were also cultivated.
He said that the annual sum paid by himself in govern-
ment duties amounted to seventy taels of silver, equivalent
to about £23 sterling. He came attired in his best clothes,
and invited me to pay their village another visit the same
evening, and to take a meal at his house. Soon after his departure the abbot returned my call.
He seemed in very good spirits, and not at all displeased
with my recent irregularity in distributing the tracts against
idolatry among the priests while engaged in their temple
services. He was also disposed to acquiesce in my propo-
sal, that a friend from Ningpo should be permitted to occu-
py a suite of rooms, either in the monastery, or in an out-
temple situated at the head of a pretty valley, half a mile
distant, on the consideration of his receiving payment to the
amount of five dollars a-month. On the previous day he
affected to make objections, on the ground of our killing
fowls and other animals for food, which practice was con-
trary to the maxims of the Budhist religion. He now


208
APPLICATION FOR MEDICAL AID.
appeared, to be perfectly reconciled to the project, and
intimated that he did not object even to foreign ladies visit-
ing the place as temporary inmates; which intimation re-
moved another serious difficulty in the way of my friend
bringing his family hither for a change of air. He present-
ed me with some of the sacred books of the Budhists, and
afterward took me to see some rooms, which he placed at
our service, having succeeded in effecting a compromise
with his former scruples. In the evening I was carried to the village, three miles
distant, to pay my friend, the tea-farmer, my promised visit.
One of the neighboring peasants, called A-luh, who had
attached himself to me as a chair-bearer and conductor,
and was useful to me as an interpreter, being able to min-
gle a certain degree of the mandarin dialect with the unin-
telligible patois of the district, proceeded to give me various
items of information as we proceeded on our way. One of
the facts communicated to me by A-luh was to the effect
that there were no robbers nor thieves in the neighborhood,
the people being very devout in worshiping idols. If this
questionable plea of morality be admissible, it shows that
idolatry exerts a moral check on the mind, and that super-
stition wields a greater power of restraint over the fears of
men than atheism. On my arrival at Jin's house I was
surrounded by a number of his friends, who came to see
the strange wonder of foreign features and a foreign garb.
After handling my garments and admiring the texture, with
other similar outbreaks of curiosity, they showed some evi-
dences of confidence in my good intentions, by bringing to
me some sick persons, and especially those afflicted with
diseases of the eye. I examined a few cases with suffi-
cient attention to indicate my friendly interest, and then
promised to write out the Chinese address of a medical
missionary friend at Ningpo, with a recommendation of
their case for medical aid, in English. They asked how
much money they were to pay, and were delighted at re-


CURTAILED INTERPRETATION KIND OFFER. 209 ceiving the promise of a general recommendation for any
inhabitants of their village, who might proceed to the city for
gratuitous cure. Here A-luh in some measure incurred
my displeasure by his unwillingness to interpret the full
meaning of my words. I requested him to explain that
my friend the physician was, like myself, a worshiper of
Jesus, and wished to do them kindness, in compliance with
the rules of our religion. A-luh would, however, only say
that we were good men; and though I urged him to ex-
plain the whole of my remarks, he continued heedless of
my solicitations, and persisted to the last in avoiding the
literal phrase. He belonged to a poor, oppressed, heredita-
ry class of bondsmen, known by the name of Do-be in the
local dialect, to whom allusion will hereafter be made; and
perhaps his fears might have got the better of his general
desire to please. As I was writing the recommendations
for medical aid, some cakes, tea, wine, and other provisions
were served on a table, of which the master of the house
and myself alone partook. On my asking whether I might
live among them in the village, he replied in the affirmative,
and offered me the use of an upper room in his own house.
I asked if they were afraid of the mandarins, or the te-paou;
to which they replied that they were not afraid, and that
the latter officer had no authority to interfere in such
matters. They also said that they would welcome and treat
kindly any of my friends who would come to distribute
books and speak to them concerning our doctrines. The
Chinese are very lavish in promises and compliments; but
there was no reason for doubting, in the present instance,
the sincerity and cordiality of their assurances. Before I returned to Teen-tung, my host took me by a
winding path, overgrown with shrubs, along the side of a
little hill to a retired spot, where there was a temple with
its superintending monk. All the loveliest spots in these
parts appeared to be appropriated to temples and monas-
teries. After taking tea with the priest, and leaving some


210
GRACE TO AN IDOL. books, I took my departure toward Teen-tung. The friend-
ly sounds of Sze-mei seen-sang and Sze-mei laou-yay greet-
ed me from almost every little group of houses, and indi-
cated the kind spirit with which they welcomed my visit
among them. The principal regret which I felt was my
inability to speak to them, except a few words through my
refractory mandarin interpreter. Sept. 19th.—When taking a morning walk around the
different squares of the monastery, I was attracted to the
large dining-hall by the notes of preparation and the sum-
mons of the monks to their second meal, at nine a.m. The
abbot was seated at a table on a raised platform, occupied
by himself alone. The rest sat at long tables on either
side, and awaited in solemn silence the signal to commence
An attendant carried around a large vessel containing rice
from which the abbot, and afterward the rest of the
priests, in turn, helped themselves. Another large vessel
was carried round, from which some soup of most nauseous
odor was served out in a ladle. They all continued ab-
sorbed in silence without beginning their meal; while one
of the priests, who ministered on the occasion, took a small
portion of rice, and carried it outside the building, where
he placed it very devoutly on a stone slab. After bowing
reverently to it two or three times, he returned to the hall,
on which the sparrows quickly made their appearance to
devour the sacred morsels. When he had resumed his
position in the center of the hall, another priest began to
tinkle a bell, whereupon they all commenced singing, in
regular time, a prayer or grace to the idol, which occupied
about five minutes. At the conclusion of the prayer, they
proceeded to partake of the meal before them, not a sylla-
ble being exchanged between any of the priests, all of
whom appeared to be under the influence of serious awe.
At the conclusion of this scanty and unsavory repast, they
again, with uplifted palms, returned thanks, each priest
rising and bowing to the idol as he left the hall. On making


DISTINCTIONS OF MONASTIC RANK. 211 his exit, the abbot directed his steps toward the place
where I had been a quiet spectator of their meal, and invit-
ed me to accompany him to a portion of the temple occu-
pied for the present by a priest who had come to visit him
from a distance, to whom he wished to introduce me. All
the priests rose when the superior of the monastery made
his appearance. There was evidently a difference of rank
in the priests, some of whom were employed in menial of-
fices, while others were better clad and secured a larger
share of attention. This probably originated in the fact of
there being several distinct endowments of the monastery,
the priests appearing to enjoy a degree of affluence propor-
tioned to the nature of the foundation to which they hap-
pened to belong. Most of them, however, appeared to be
in deep poverty, and were willing to descend to any act of
servility for the smallest sum of money. In the large temple, at the entrance, a number of women
were occasionally assembled from the neighboring villages
to consult the hwui-do idol. This divinity is said to have
been originally imported from Siam, and is very generally
consulted by traders, husbandmen, and mariners, previous-
ly to undertaking any business of importance. The wor-
shipers burned a few incense-sticks before the idol, and
then took a round, wooden case, containing some tallies
regularly numbered, which they waved over the fumes of
sacred incense. After knocking their heads on the floor,
they next proceeded to shake the wooden case till a tally
dropped out. The process was repeated till a second
fell from the case. Both tallies were taken to a priest
sitting at a table near the entrance, who received a small
fee, and gave in return two pieces of paper correspond-
ing in their numbers with those of the tallies. These
slips contained a number of maxims and directions on the
various matters of daily life, from which their superstition
or secret wishes led them to extract the response of the
deity. 


212 VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE TAE-PIH-SAN RIDGE. In the afternoon I ascended the range of lofty hills known
by the name Tae-pih-san. I was borne on the usual chair
of two bamboo poles joined together. In this manner my
Chinese companions climbed, with much difficulty, the steep
acclivity of the path leading through a little forest of brush-
wood for the first half mile, over which I proceeded, partly
lifted and partly treading the ground with my feet from the
chair. Our path was afterward less impeded by shrubs;
but the ascent was at times so steep and rugged as to be
attended with some degree of hazard. The Chinese, how-
ever, toiled on, and ascended hill after hill, separated from
each other by alternate descents and sloping rises. At last
we reached the summit, after an hour and a half's labor.
None of my companions had ever before ascended to the
top, though born and educated in the neighborhood. Near
the summit was a little well of cold water, dedicated, by
popular superstition, to the tung-hai lung-wang, " The Drag-
on-princo of the Eastern Ocean," whose idol, carved out
of a rude, half-finished stone, was almost concealed by the
bushes. It was so overgrown with shrubs that it required
some time to cut them away and open the idol to their
view. Here two of the Chinese commenced worshiping
and bowing their heads to the water in the well, while the
two others yielded to my remonstrances, and abstained from
any open act of the kind. We remained about half an
hour on the summit of the hill, which is estimated at about
3000 feet above the level of the sea. As these hills formed
a part of the promontory called Ke-tow point, there was an
extensive view of the sea on three sides. Over against us
lay the beautiful island of Chusan, at the distance of thirty
miles. On our left the declining sun was now gilding,
with its softened rays, the town of Chin-hai, which was
partially concealed by the bold, towering rocks at the en-
trance of the river. Farther inland lay the city of Ningpo,
almost concealed by a passing thunder-cloud, which was
rolling its deep sounds in the valley beneath us. On the 


214
RETURN TO THE CITY. English bonze or Budhist priest, hung-maou ho-ihang—a
comparison which my religious objects, my being unmar-
ried, and my recent refusal to take some wine, probably
led him to make. This I contradicted at the time; but on
my afterward reproving A-luh for his folly in comparing me
to so wicked and ignorant a class of men, he affected inno-
cence, and protested that he had been first asked the ques-
tion whether I was such, and had merely denied the fact.
Our path now lay over rice-fields interspersed with tombs
and monumental arches, if horizontal stones placed above
perpendicular pillars can strictly merit the name. One
tomb exceeded the rest in beauty, having been erected to
the memory of a Fokeen man, named Hwang, who had
come to open a trading hong at Ningpo, and died three
years ago at a distance from his native province. He died
in youth; and, as a lucky place could not be purchased
nearer to the city, was brought hither for interment, at the
distance of twenty miles. We arrived at the monastery as
it was growing dark, after an absence of five hours. Sept. 20th.—At daybreak I set out on my return for
Ningpo, the people exchanging kind looks, and in many
cases a farewell greeting, as I passed through their villages
to the canal five or six miles distant. By mid-day I arrived
at the city, after a disagreeable journey in the boat, from
the heat and the dirty habits of the Chinese who were my
fellow-passengers. At each of the different villages we
took in a fresh set of noisy companions. 


CHAPTER XVII. CONCLUDING OCCURRENCES AT NINGPO, AND DEPARTURE
FOR CHUSAN. Roman Catholics in Ningpo—Chinese Military Archery—Ebullition of
Popular Odium against the new "Cheheen"—Effect of Reading the
New Testament on a Native Merchant—Rebellion of Fung-kwa—Re-
pulse of Troops—Final Compromise—A Class of hereditary Bondsmen
—Religious Service—Review of actual missionary Labors at Ningpo—
Arrival at Chusan—The Visit and Reception of the French Embassy—
Christian Services among British Troops in a Budhist Temple. Sept. 21st.—During one of the occasional walks which I
took into the streets near my house, in order to distribute
tracts, I entered into the house of an oil-merchant. He
and his partners rose to welcome me, and one of them ad-
vanced to shake hands with me, after the English custom.
As we sipped tea together, they asked me many questions;
and finding that this was our Sabbath Day, they quickly
turned to the Christian Almanac, a copy of which had by
some means found its way into their possession; and after
inspecting the calendar they confirmed my statement. One
of them for some minutes read aloud a part of a tract which
I had given them. Among other questions, they asked me
whether I was a Roman Catholic. They afterward told
me that there were only a very few Roman Catholic na-
tives in Ningpo, and that they principally belonged to the
middle class of tradesmen. They also said that this sect
secretly practiced their religion, and at the same time wor-
shiped idols, in order to escape detection, as the manda-
rins would punish any person known to profess the teen-
choo-keaou, "the religion of the Lord of Heaven." On the
other hand, they said that the Mohammedans were more
numerous, and were under no such danger or prohibition,


216
MILITARY ARCHERY.
as several were to be found among the Mongol Tartars,
and a few even among the Manchoos. Sept. 22d.—The son of Dr. Chang paid me a visit, to
convey to me a present from his father, and also to take
me to see the military exercising, at the distance of about
a mile. Under a shed, screened from the sun by some
canvas, were seated two military subalterns, wearing white
knobs on their caps. They were engaged in smoking, and
drinking tea from time to time; while the soldiers came up
in companies of five, and, after answering to their names,
shot six arrows each at a target about eighty yards distant.
They wore a velvet cap, with a red silk tassel, similar to
that generally worn by the higher classes of native gentry
in winter. Their outer garment was a long flowing robe
of blue cotton, reaching to the ankle, and fastened by a
leather girdle around the waist. They had thick, black
boots, of a strong texture, reaching up the leg to the knee.
After poising their frames, and throwing their bodies into
various contortions, each of the soldiers deliberately took
aim, and the arrow was propelled from their clumsy bow
to the target. This consisted of a frame made of paper,
about two yards in height and one in breadth. It had a
white mark, about a yard in length and three inches in
width, running down the center, in which were three red
bulls' eyes, at a distance of six inches from each other.
More than half the arrows struck the target, on which a
drum was beaten to announce the successful hit. A few
soldiers shot with remarkable skill, one man hitting the cen-
tral bull's eye three times out of the first four arrows. One
of the subalterns kept a check-book, in which he noted
down, opposite each soldier's name, his number of marks,
sometimes making observations or giving directions in a
scolding tone to any soldier who shot badly. Some of
them appeared to experience nervousness under the lec-
ture, and the reproof invariably took away all remaining
chance of the individual hitting the mark. One or two 


VENAL CORRUPTION OF SUBORDINATE RULERS. 219 these public manifestoes of the irate " scholars and gentry,"
and would be compelled to leave the place. The matter
was likely to come to the ears of the che-foo, his superior,
in which event the che-heen would be called to account.
The next step in the usual course of venal corruption then
follows. He partly confesses, but agrees to share the bribe
with the che-foo. Here the affair terminates for the pres-
ent; but if the taou-tai take up the matter, he too must be
subsidized in a portion of the 2000 dollars. Thus, by the
partition of the ill-gotten bribe, the che-heen retains his
office, the people vent their indignation in vain, and a cor-
rupt administration of the local government is almost hope-
lessly perpetuated. Sept. 20th.—The strongly-expressed opinions of my med-
ical advisers on the personal hazard of my remaining dur-
ing another hot season in China led me reluctantly to make
preparations for underletting the lease of my house, and
taking my early departure from Ningpo, in order to visit
the other consular cities during the winter. The arrange-
ments for bringing my successor's commercial goods into
his new dwelling were, for a day or two, the means of at-
tracting several native merchants and shroffs to my house,
among whom I had opportunities of distributing books.
One of them was seen frequently perusing the books, and
sometimes came to me to ask questions respecting them.
In the early part of the morning I gave him a copy of the
Epistle of St. James, translated into Chinese, which he
was engaged for some time in reading. Two hours after,
on my returning from a neighboring street, I had to bor-
row from him a few coins to send to a beggar who lay in
the last extremity of sickness at the entrance of a neighbor-
ing temple. My Chinese friend seemed surprised at my
conduct, and asked my reasons for taking any interest in
the beggar, who was neither a relative nor a countryman
of mine. I replied that the Supreme Ruler of Heaven
commanded us to do good to all men. He commended 


220 EFFECT OF READING THE NEW TESTAMENT. the action, and then went away. He paced up and down
in an adjoining room, appearing absorbed in thought, and
emitting thick clouds of tobacco smoke from his nostrils.
He then took up one of the books, and, after reading it a
few moments, returned to me with pleasure depicted on his
countenance, as if he had made some discovery which sat-
isfactorily explained the questions passing through his mind.
"Teacher," said he, " I understand it! I understand it!"
He then pointed to the second chapter and eighth verse of
St. James's Epistle, If ye fulfill the royal law according to
the Scripture, Thou shalt love thy neighbor as thyself, ye do
well. He highly commended the morality contained in
that portion of our holy Scriptures, but said that Confucius
enjoined the same duty almost in the same terms. He
affirmed that there was a passage of the same kind in the
"Four Books." * In a subsequent part of our conversation
he acknowledged that he had never prayed for forgiveness
of sin; and that, as we could obtain so little knowledge
about the next world, the Confucians considered it unnecessary to trouble themselves about matters so uncertain. Sept. 27th.—On my going from the city to sleep at a
friend's house on the opposite side of the river I had some
apprehensions of not being allowed to pass through the city
gate. It was rumored that the mandarins had ordered all
the six gates to be closed at an early hour in the evening,
and a seal to be affixed to each of them, in order to pre- * The original passage is an extract from a commentary on one of the
ancient classics. This commentary is supposed to have been written a few
centuries subsequent to the Christian era. The universal duty of benevo-
lence is stated in a negative form, and consequently with a diminished force,
to the following effect: "Whatsoever that ye are unwilling others should
do unto you, be unwilling to do unto them." Another extract states that
"The whole system of Confucius's doctrine consists in fidelity and lenity
alone." The skeptical atheism of Chinese literati, and their disbelief in a
future state, are seen also in another statement. "Confucius said, Not
being able to serve men, how can we serve spirits? Not being fully ac-
quainted with the affairs of this life, how can we possibly know the things
after death V


FLAGRANT PARTIALITY AND BRIBERY. 221 vent any opening of the gates by bribing the soldiers of the
watch. I found the North gate closed, but experienced
no difficulty in having it opened. This I had often done
before at the North, the Salt, and the East gates of the
city, the gate-keeper usually calling the next morning for a
gratuity of a hundred copper cash. On my approach to
the gate this evening, the keeper at once pronounced my
name and residence, the former gratuities having produced
a remarkable effect on his powers of memory. I easily in-
duced him to open the huge, ponderous gate for myself
and two Chinese. The cause of the early closing of the
city gates was the serious outbreak of popular fury at Fung-
kwa, about twenty miles distant, one of the districts in the
department of Ningpo. The circumstances which gave
rise to this tumult were said to be the following: In the
examinations for the literary degree of sew-tsai, in the last
year, the che-heen of Fung-kwa was charged with gross
and flagrant partiality, the result of bribery. The same
functionary had also, about the same time, levied an un-
authorized amount of taxes on the people in his district.
During the past year the people of Fung-kwa been had
sent a petition, through the che-heen, to the imperial gov-
ernment, requesting that a considerable sum might be re-
mitted from their taxes. A favorable reply had been re-
ceived from Peking, remitting 2000 taels, which the che-
heen contrived to keep secret. He proceeded to levy the
full amount of taxes, on the pretext that the petition had
been unsuccessful, and placed the 2000 taels in his own
pocket. This had been detected by the people, from
whom a deputation of literary graduates was sent to Pe-
king. Their petition was referred to the che-foo of Ning-
po, who received an order to redress their grievances.
The che-foo, who was suspected of being in league with
the che-heen, and of being annoyed with the memorialists
for their spirited interference, passed several slighting re-
marks, and affected to doubt the fact of their literary de-


222
REBELLION OF FCNG-KWA.
gree. He ordered the "Four Books" to be placed in the
hands of some of them, that he might on the spot be sat-
isfied of their scholarship. This insult the scholars could
not brook. They refused to pass any such ordeal, saying
that they came to have their wrongs redressed, and not to
submit to a literary examination. The consequence was
that they were rather roughly treated, and it was said that
some of them were even bambooed on the spot by order
of the che-foo. The time of retribution, however, drew
nigh. On the first day of the literary examinations the
assembled scholars rose against the authorities, and, being
joined by the populace, put the che-heen to flight, and
spread disorder and consternation over the whole district.
Popular report affirmed that they were about to march on
the city of Ningpo, and capture it by a coup-de-main. A
deputation of three mandarins, who had been sent from
Ningpo to negotiate with the infuriated people, were se-
verely beaten, and their sedan-chairs broken to pieces.
The only officer to whom the scholars were willing to
listen was said to be the deposed taou-tai, Loo ta-laou-
yay, which fact was another proof of the public integrity
of the disgraced functionary. The tumult of Fung-kwa
speedily grew into a regular rebellion, and troops were
sent from different parts of the province to quell the dis-
turbance. These were once or twice routed by the popu-
lace; and several of the military officers, as well as the
che-heen himself, subsequently became the temporary pa-
tients of the two medical missionaries in Ningpo, who pre-
scribed for their wounds. The local authorities were in a
panic; but at length, with the arrival of re-enforcements,
the prospects of the rebels became gloomy, and the matter
was brought to an amicable adjustment, on the condition
of the ringleader being given up for capital punishment.
The real ringleader was secretly spared, and his place was
said to be supplied by a poor Chinese, who, for the sum
of 2000 dollars paid to his parents and family consented to 


A CLASS OF HEREDITARY BONDSMEN. 223
bo the victim. The Chinese gazettes soon afterward con-
tained a list of military promotions, consequent on the
bravery of the troops, as reported to the emperor through
the false representations of the local authorities. The chair-bearers, who were to be hired at almost every
corner of the streets in Ningpo, appeared to belong to a
class of hereditary bondsmen, excluded from every honor-
able calling, and made, from generation to generation, the
marked objects of popular contempt. This race of beggar-
population, commonly called do-be, were said to have had
their origin during the time of the Yuen dynasty; their
numbers were also re-enforced in the Ming dynasty. They
were said to be the descendants of some criminals who, for
their offenses, were, with their families, forever incapacita-
ted for honorable employment. These criminals were some
mandarins, guilty of treacherous transactions with the Jap-
anese. At the present time this oppressed class supplies
all the chair-bearers of the neighborhood. They are also
employed as barbers and head-shavers, and may perform
the work of coolies. A few of them are engaged in the
lowest kind of trades, and secretly possess considerable
sums of money. Their women are employed as nurses,
and are never saluted by other Chinese women with the
usual respectful address of "sister-in-law." The do-be class
are not allowed to wear the usual cap or garments of re-
spectable Chinese. A great number of them became play-
actors. They are not very numerous, being estimated at
between two or three thousand, and are only found in the
province of Che-keang, dwelling principally in the depart-
ments of Ningpo, Shaou-hing and Tai-chew; where, after
a lapse of four or five centuries since their primary offense,
they still continue to suffer the penalty of hereditary degra-
dation. Sept. %Sth.—I attended a religious service held in the
morning by the American missionaries, at which there was
an attendance of about sixty persons, consisting principally 


224 ACTUAL MISSIONARY LABORS. of Chinese servants, teachers, and pupils. It was a scene
well calculated to impress the native mind, accustomed to
the superstitions of idolatry, with the solemnity and sub-
limity of Christian worship addressed to the one true God.
The next day, amid the affectionate greetings of friends, I
paid a farewell to Ningpo, where I had hoped to spend
many years of usefulness, but in which, from continued
sickness—the effect of debilitated constitution rather than
of local insalubrity—I was unable to maintain my ground.
After I had been committed to the Divine blessing by one
of the missionary brethren whom I had last visited, and we
had mingled our prayers together, that we might, each in the
different spheres in which Providence might place us, ever
realize the Divine presence, and be employed to God's glo-
ry, I embarked, at ten p.m., on board a native boat, and at
midnight weighed anchor. The circumstances of my three months' residence at
Ningpo, although a season of protracted weakness and
sickness, will ever be remembered among the most pleasing
recollections of my life. The missionary brethren from
America, of whose kind attention I shall ever retain an af-
fectionate remembrance, were diligent in pursuing their
work, and, though as yet few in number, are likely to
become, as a body, eminently useful. Only one British
laborer had at this time entered on the station of Ningpo—
a female missionary, who, with her own independent re-
sources, was making a praiseworthy effort to impart the
benefits of a Christian education to about twenty female
children. The prejudices and suspicions of the parents,
which were at first roused by the slightest incident, even
causing the removal of every child at the mere arrival of a
steamer in the river, had been gradually allayed by her
judicious and kind management, and their confidence was
daily increasing. A little babe, rescued from slow starva-
tion, had just been received as an inmate, on the day of my
last visit at the school. Boys could be obtained from their 


ARRIVAL AND STAY AT CHUSAN. 225 parents without difficulty, for a term of years, to be edu-
cated by the missionaries; and the system had been already
partially acted on by them. But it is only to unmarried
female missionaries—and even to such with some degree
of hesitation—that the Chinese are willing to intrust the
care of their female children. Miss Aldersey, therefore,
deserves the sympathy and prayers of all who are inter-
ested in the success of her bold experiment. Her labors
have been conducted, both here and previously in Java,
with a degree of perseverance and courage which deserves
to find a place among those instances of female fortitude
with which the history of Christian missions abounds. Our Chinese boat lay at anchor off Chin-hai during the
night. The next morning, also, we were detained by foul
winds for some time off the mouth of the river. About mid-
day, with the change of tide, we proceeded toward Chusan,
where we arrived, about an hour after sunset, on Septem-
ber 30th. During the first few days of my stay at Chusan, I resided
in the house of a friend on the beach, from which I after-
ward removed to the house of an American missionary, sit-
uated near the north gate within the city of Tinghai. On October 3d, the French embassador, M. Lagrene,
with his family and suite, landed at Chusan, amid a salute
of artillery from the British, and a guard of honor. The
visit of his excellency gave a temporary excitement to the
place. Among the suite was the son of the late Duke of
Tarentum, Marshal M'Donald, who, in the freedom of
friendly hospitality, mingled with some of the veterans,
who had been opposed to his martial sire. In addition to
some priests in private garb, there was one who appeared
with his excellency on various public occasions, and was
said to be the superior of the order of St. Lazarus, whose
emissaries are numerous in China. During my stay in Chusan I had an opportunity of offici-
ating on the Sundays at an afternoon service of the troops. 


226 FORMER DESTITUTION OF SPIRITUAL INSTRUCTION. A Budhist temple, formerly devoted to the service of idols,
and even now bearing marks of the late war in portions of
the walls battered by the cannon-balls of the British, was
the scene of our religious service. The whole European
battalion were assembled, and the Protestant part of them
marched to the building, which was ordinarily used as a
canteen for the troops. On the first occasion about 500
persons were assembled, to whom I preached a sermon on
the blessedness of a Christian death. The subject was sug-
gested by the funeral procession of a young naval officer,
whom I had buried during the past week, and whose
remains were attended to the grave by a body of military
and part of a man-of-war's crew, the soldiers firing, accord-
ing to custom, at the conclusion of the service. A period of five years had elapsed since the first occupa-
tion of the island by the British. During the whole of this
time the military residents had been left destitute of the
advantages of a resident chaplain. It was indeed affecting
to behold that assemblage, the sad relics of war, climate,
and disease, and to reflect on the numbers who had sunk
into the grave without the comforts of religion even in their
dying hour, or the ministerial offices of burial. The deep
attention depicted in every countenance in that martial
assembly seemed to tell a tale which might well appeal to
the sympathy of statesmen, and suggest thoughts of self-
reproach for past neglect. The French embassador, in my
hearing, drew an invidious contrast between the neglect of
the British government in leaving so large a body of soldiers
for so long a time destitute of spiritual instruction, and the
conduct of his own government, who, in addition to other
priests on board the frigate, had supplied him with a private
chaplain among his suite. About twelve pious soldiers used also to visit me on an-
other evening of the week, within the city, where I held
another religious service. I remained in Chusan for a fortnight, waiting for a pass-


EXCURSIONS INTO THE COUNTRY. 227 age to Shanghai, having determined on paying a second
visit to my friend M'Clatchie, previously to my departure
to the consular ports of Foo-chow and Amoy. During this
time I made frequent excursions into the surrounding coun-
try, and mingled in continual intercourse with the people
of Tanghai, in company with the missionary friend whose
house afforded me the comforts of a temporary home. 


CHAPTER XVIII. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF CHUSAN. Topography—Character of the Population—Natural Productions—Events of
first Capture by the British—Excesses of Troops—Native Pillagers—
Menacing Edicts of Chinese Government—Chinese Kidnappers—Suffer-
ings of British Soldiers—Armistice and Cession of Chusan—Insincerity
of Chinese Government—Recapture of Chusan—Rapid Successes of
British Expedition along the Coast—Treaty of Nanking and Retention
of Chusan—Mingled Influence of British Occupation—British Adminis-
tration of Police—Foreign Trade—Missionary Prospects—Popular Feel-
ing on reverting to their own native Government. Chusan is the largest island of an archipelago of that
name, which lies off the central part of the extensive line
of Chinese coast. This cluster of islands forms a district in
the department of Ningpo, named Tinghai-heen, after the
capital of Chusan, which city is situated in latitude 30° 0'
20" north, and in longitude 122° 5' 18" east. The island
stretches, in an irregular form, about twenty-five miles in
length from northwest to southeast, its average breadth
being about ten miles. There are eighteen principal vil-
lages in the island, together with a number of lesser ham-
lets, where the cultivators of some larger farm are collected
together within a wall surrounding their little dwellings.
Lofty hills, rising to the height of from 1000 to 2000 feet,
intersect the country in all directions, and inclose a number
of fertile valleys, in which crops of bean, maize, rice, and
the sweet potato, sheltered by the surrounding eminences
from the cold blast, wave in rich luxuriance, to delight the
eye and reward the toil of the husbandman. Every valley
has its little stream or rivulet, pursuing its course down the
verdant slopes, and finding a tortuous channel to the sea.
Those valleys, which open on the beach, are guarded from 


APPEARANCE OF THE CITY. 229
the impetuous waters of the spring-tides by broad and firm-
ly-constructed barriers of earth, piled along the shore, and
possessing outlets, which, at certain seasons, are opened to
drain the neighboring rice-fields of their superabundant wa-
ter. There are few parts of the island which are not com-
pelled to yield some kind of produce for the supply of hu-
man necessities. The only spots which escape the plow or
spade are the thousands of little tombs which conceal the
departed dead, and whose lofty piles of grassy herbage,
surmounting the top, denote the numerous contributions
of sacred earth which their relatives annually make. The
extraordinary number of tombs which cover the hills bor-
dering on the northwest of the city prove its great antiquity
and numerous population. Scarcely a spot is to be seen
which is not occupied with stone monuments, inscribed
with the names and dates of the deceased. The city itself
is of an irregular, pentagonal form, about two thirds of a
mile in length from north to south, and a little less in aver-
age breadth from east to west. It is surrounded by a wall
about eighteen feet in height and fifteen in breadth, which
is nearly three miles in circuit, and through which four
gates open into the surrounding country, respectively
named from the four cardinal points. The parts of the
wall which cross the Cameronian Hill so as to inclose por-
tions of it within the city, are in a state of semi-dilapida-
tion, the ramparts having been thrown down by the British
troops after their escalade and capture of the defenses.
From this eminence a fine view is obtained of the city, and
of the harbor at the distance of a mile, with the adjoining
country and the neighboring islets. Several open spaces,
formerly occupied by the public offices and houses of man-
darins, remain as monuments of the destructive ravages of
British assailants. A fine pagoda rises above the general
level of the buildings in the western part of the city. In
several of the groves, which line the neighboring hill-sides,
are little temples, under the superintendence of one or two
U


330
CHARACTER OF POPULATION. priests, who are generally sent from the island of Pootoo,
the grand metropolis of Budhism in this part of China.
About a mile to the north of the city there is a very pretty
grotto and flower-garden on a small scale, skillfully contrived
so as to represent the usual beauties of rural scenery in a
small space. Two bridges over a stream of water, and
two flights of stone steps, lead the visitor, by a circuitous
route, to the other end of the grotto, combining a variety
of scenes, the arrangement of which is creditable to the in-
genuity of the native artist, and has been generally attract-
ive to foreigners. The paths over the hills and across the fields are gener-
ally very narrow, in many parts scarcely admitting one
person to walk, except with extreme care. Some of the
valleys are very picturesque, and have received an English
name from some circumstance happening to individual for-
eigners on the first capture of the island. Among these,
the long valley, commonly called Anstruther's Valley, de-
serves mention, so termed from the fact of a British officer
of that name being kidnapped by the Chinese in that part,
and taken prisoner to the mandarins on the continent. The
whole population of the island has been variously esti-
mated; but the most probable estimate reckons it to
amount to 120,000, one fourth of the number being con-
tained within the city of Tanghai. The character of the population resembles that of the
people on the neighboring mainland. They are free from
that turbulent hostility to foreigners which prevails among
their countrymen in the province of Canton. The former
inhabitants of Chusan, according to tradition, manifested
great opposition to the reigning dynasty on the first subju-
gation of China by the Manchoo Tartars. They are said
to have resisted all efforts to bring them to submission, and
to have persisted in refusing to adopt the badge of servi-
tude imposed by the conquering race—the modern fashion
of shaving the head and wearing a queue. This brought 


NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 231 on them the vengeance of the victorious bands of Manchoos,
who subdued the island, and exterminated the whole race
of the original inhabitants, whose place was supplied by an
emigration from Ningpo of the ancestors of the present
population. The mass of the people consists of agricultu-
rists and fishermen, the traders forming but a small propor-
tion of the whole, except within the city. Under the Chi-
nese regime, which prevailed previously to the occupation
of the island by the British, the produce of the soil was
divided into ten parts, of which one was paid to the gov-
ernment, four to the proprietor of the land, and the remain-
ing five were the property of the cultivator. There are
some rich landowners, but few of them have resided on the
island since the war. The fertility of the soil is such, that
from the same ground two crops of rice, besides vegetables,
are raised with little labor, and that little is required only
at one season of the year. Their plows are worked by a
single buffalo; and, after the grain is sown, the principal
labor is that of irrigation. This is generally performed by
means of a circular machine, worked by a buffalo, the water
being raised by a series of pieces of wood attached to a
strap, into a higher level from the stream or dyke below.
The harvests usually take place between the months of
August and November. Rice is raised in quantities more
than sufficient to support the whole population. From the
surplus a kind of spirit is distilled, called samshoo, which
forms the principal article of export. Vegetable tallow,
tea, sweet potatoes, and cotton, are also produced for home
consumption. The manufacture of salt, bricks, and various
articles of domestic use, furnish employment to a portion of
the population. The people have the character of being in-
dustrious and easily governed. Highway robbery, though
not unknown, is of extreme y rare occurrence. House-
breaking is more common, and petty thefts are of daily oc-
currence. The population of the neighboring islands is
scanty, some of them having only one or two families, 


232 EMPLOYMENTS OF PEOPLE SOCIAL CONDITION
while others are entirely destitute of inhabitants. It is
composed of the same classes of people as the inhabitants
of Chusan, consisting of agriculturists, fishermen, and salt-
makers. Pirates and freebooters, chiefly from the more
southern province of Fokeen, frequent the neighboring
passages, but have never been known to attack Europeans.
The native craft are sometimes collected together in Chu-
san harbor, so as to form a mutual convoy against these
depredators on their voyage southward. In July of the
present year, out of 180 junks, which left the harbor to-
gether, 160 were compelled to return within four hours
afterward, with the loss of a few sailors, who were wound-
ed by the spears of the pirates. Some cases of piracy have
taken place close to the harbor; but there are no grounds
for suspecting the people of Chusan to be implicated in
these deeds of crime. There are passage-boats constantly plying between Chu-
san and Ningpo, by which natives are brought the whole
distance for the small sum of 200 copper cash, equal to
about eightpence. There is a considerable intercourse be-
tween the two places, the more respectable merchants re-
siding at the city of Ningpo. They generally transact
their business at Chusan by means of brokers and agents,
and visit the island only on extraordinary occasions. Al-
though Chusan possesses the elements of internal pros-
perity, in the natural productions and independent re-
sources which a bountiful Providence has afforded it, there
are few cases of wealth, the people generally exhibiting
the marks of poverty and slender means of livelihood. The
cases of extreme want are, however, rare; and every man
in health can earn, by the sweat of his brow, sufficient to
supply the ordinary demands of nature. There are only
a few of those public institutions which are met with in
richer and larger cities for the relief of the destitute. The
poor are left to die in the streets, or at the entrance of tem-
ples. The owners of houses are careful to remove indigent


EVENTS OF FIR3T CAPTURE BT BRITISH. 233
inmates on the first approach of fatal disease, to prevent
their contamination by death, and to avoid the expenses of
interment, which legally devolve on the proprietor of the
dwelling in which a pauper dies. The people are friendly
and well-disposed to strangers; and a visit to the most dis-
tant parts of the island can be made at any time, and with-
out any risk of meeting with personal violence or insulting
expressions. The simple elements of society appear to be
held together principally by the bonds of patriarchal law,
unwritten indeed, but deeply rooted in the feelings of the
people. The social condition of the people of Chusan
stands forth in happy contrast with the heterogeneous ele-
ments of which the Chinese population of Hong Kong is
composed, and with the nocturnal depredations on prop-
erty, and violence on person, which have long prevailed
there. On the testimony of those officers of the British
government who have had the best opportunity of ascer-
taining the truth, Chusan possesses an industrious, orderly,
and respectable class of inhabitants, and enjoys a general
exemption from those social disadvantages which have
converted the British possession off the southern coasts into
a receptacle for the most abandoned desperadoes of the
adjoining continent. Such is the general character of an island which is inti-
mately associated with the most prominent events of the
late war with China. In the beginning of July 1840, the
British expedition arrived before the town of Tinghai, the
authorities of which were summoned to surrender. There
was something tragical in the occurrences of that time,
when, in pursuance of a policy of warfare more bold than
just, the scene of conflict was transferred from the south
of China to the central provinces, the inhabitants of which
scarcely knew the name of Britain until they beheld her
victorious armaments advancing before their defenseless
homes. A show of resistance, more ludicrous than terri-
ble, was offered; and on July the 5th the British forces 0*


234 EXCESSES OP TROOPS AND NATIVE PILLAGERS. landed, and, carrying every thing before them, on the next
day entered the city without a check. The old Chinese
admiral, who, in a previous parley with the British com-
manders, had affected a listless composure, and laughed
heartily as he descended the foreign ship of war, calmly
encountered his unhappy destiny. He had to choose be-
tween two alternatives. On the one hand was present
safety to be gained by timely surrender, but to be followed
by the speedy vengeance of the emperor for cowardice;
on the other hand there remained for him the alternative
of meeting death with a dignified courage while resisting
the enemies of his country. He preferred the path of he-
roism, and fell seriously wounded. His flag-captain was
slain; and the che-heen, the principal civil magistrate, in
the hour of flight resorted to suicide as the termination of
his disasters. The British troops were undisputed masters
of the city, which for a time became a confused scene of
plunder and pillage. It was in vain that officers were sta-
tioned in the different streets to restrain the Indian and
European soldiery in the hour of excitement. Every house
was sacked, the intoxicating samshoo was eagerly sought
and drank, and, but for the general destruction of the jars
which contained this ardent spirit, further excesses of the
most deplorable kind might have followed. Meanwhile,
the more respectable citizens had been fleeing through the
northern, eastern, and western gates, to the distant parts of
the island, whence they quickly transported themselves to
the continent, beyond the reach of their British invaders.
Proclamations were issued from the British commander-in-
chief, offering security of person and of property to those
who were willing to remain. But the stillness of desola-
tion reigned every where; and, as the troops advanced,
only a few poor creatures, who were unable to escape,
made their appearance. They were seen coming forth
from their houses, imploring the barbarians to spare their
lives, and seeking to disarm their dreaded cruelty by offer-


CHINESE SMUGGLERS KIDNAPPERS. 235
ing them tea. The lowest classes of Chinese, who, amid
the general flight of the inhabitants, remained in the island,
soon gathered boldness, and proceeded to pillage the houses
that had been abandoned by their wealthier owners, and
to carry the booty from the city. This led to prohibitory
measures, and the gates of the city were guarded, to pre-
vent the removal of any property. The walls were also
watched, to defeat the many plans of deception that were
devised to smuggle away the plunder. Sometimes a cofHn
was borne through the gates with a train of loudly-bewailing
mourners, who were allowed to pass. The funerals soon
became so frequent, that at last a coffin was opened, and
instead of the corpse, a quantity of silk was discovered
within. Some of these plunderers were shot dead on at-
tempting to force their way past the sentries. The shop-
keepers who remained soon resumed their customary voca-
tions, and their commodities met with a rapid sale. Pro-
visions were every where in request by the English, which
the native traders were eager to supply as a source of
profit. Matters proceeded for some time in this smooth
and easy course, when at length the Chinese rulers issued
their threatening edicts against those individuals who sup-
plied the barbarians with provisions. A Chinese purveyor
was seized by kidnappers, and being taken to Chinhai, was
severely punished for his offense. Rewards were after-
ward offered for the capture of Englishmen, and a few
cases of kidnapping and mutilation followed. Three Chi-
nese were apprehended and sentenced to be hanged for an
attempt of this kind. During the previous night, one of
them, while endeavoring to escape, was shot by the sentry
on duty. The two others were led forth to be suspended
from the same branch of a tree, and after repeated bowings
to a crowd of spectators, Chinese and British, were thrown
off by one of their own countrymen and fellow-prisoners,
on whom the task was imposed. The intrigues of the mandarins and the terrors of the


236
ARMISTICE AND CESSION OF CHUSAN. people soon produced a scarcity of provisions, which may
be considered as the primary cause of the subsequent rav-
ages of disease among the troops. The dire menaces of
the mandarins against those who furnished supplies to the
British produced such a panic in the minds of the Chinese
inhabitants, that Tinghai became, in a short time, deserted
by the people, and the necessaries of life were with diffi-
culty obtained. The people also, in the villages around,
became so emboldened by the forbearance of the British,
that every straggler from the foraging parties was seized,
and the most trifling articles of food had to be guarded and
convoyed by an armed force. Meanwhile, the troops, en-
camped on a marshy swamp, amid the intense heat of sum-
mer, were suffering from the combined effects of sickness
and bad provisions. Fever and dysentery spread fearful
havoc among them. The removal from tents into comfort-
able quarters in the city proved but a slight alleviation of
the evil. The severity of their sufferings, added to the fre-
quent attacks of the peasantry, might naturally have been
expected to try the patience of the military. There is,
however, every reason for believing that the general for-
bearance of the troops was in the highest degree creditable
under these circumstances of provocation. Notwithstand-
ing these adverse circumstances, some desultory attempts
were made to organize a native police throughout the
island, and to form a system of internal government. At this juncture the tidings arrived of pacific overtures,
and the conclusion of a truce-with the Chinese government.
After a series of diplomatic negotiations, during which
Chinese duplicity had full scope for its exercise, a treaty
was concluded between the representatives of the Chinese
and British governments. The prisoners on either side
were to be liberated; the island was to be evacuated; and,
in accordance with these stipulations, on Feb. 23d, 1841,
Chusan was restored to the Chinese. The British expedi-
tion was soon on its way to the southward; and thus an


RECAPTURE OF CHUSAN.
237
ill-timed dependence on the promises and fair speeches of
E-le-poo averted for a time the impending blow, and served
to defer the day of plenary retribution. The result showed that neither party was satisfied with
the terms of the peace; and E-le-poo had soon to bear the
weight of imperial displeasure, in distant exile from the
flowery land. Subsequent events proved tho insincerity of
the Chinese, and the note of warlike preparation was again
sounded. The arrival of the new plenipotentiary, Sir H.
Pottinger, brought energy and firmness into the scene of
operation; and soon an expedition was a second time on
its way from Hong Kong. Amoy speedily fell before the
assembled forces, naval and military. Ningpo was situated
next in the contemplated order of advance toward the im-
perial capital. Chusan lay in the route, and again became
an object of attack. During the interval since its evacua-
tion its defenses had been strengthened, and a long line
of mud fortifications had been thrown up along the beach.
The resistance, though more determined on the part of the
Chinese than on the former assault, was equally ineffectual.
On the west of the harbor a strong body of troops landed,
and pursued the routed bodies of Chinese over the hills
toward the city. On the east the cannonade of the British
soon silenced every Chinese gun, and emptied the Pagoda-
Hill fort of its defenders. The bravery af many individuals
was conspicuous; but the British bore every thing before
them, and a second time Tinghai fell into the hands of a
foreign invader. A body of the troops was detached to
scour the island in all directions; and before the expedition
left, Chusan was placed under military government, and
garrisoned by a body of 400 men. Thus, after a lapse
of less than eight months, on October 1st, 1841, the island
again became subject to British law. The inhabitants
were made acquainted with the fact of its probable reten-
tion for many years under British power, till the whole of
the demands of Britain should be not only acceded to, but


233
RETENTION OF CHUSAN. also carried into effect. Proclamations were issued, prom-
ising protection to the peaceable and denouncing punish-
ment against the disorderly. The people were induced
to resume their customary trades, by the assurances of
a just and fostering government. From that time to the
present affairs have gradually assumed a peaceful aspect,
and the population have become reconciled to, and even
contented with, their foreign rulers. The subsequent events
of the war ceased to affect their condition. The capture
of Chinhai at the distance of thirty miles on the mainland,
the occupation of Ningpo, the reduction of Chapoo, were a
rapid succession of defeats, thoroughly humbling to the
arrogance of the native rulers. The fall of Shanghai, the
dreadful storming of Chinkeang, and, lastly, the approach
of the expedition under the very walls of Nanking, with a
numerous fleet of ships of war, which, by the skill of the
surveying departments of the force, had overcome all the
formidable difficulties of navigating the Yang-tze-keang,
the key to the whole empire, proved to a demonstration the
power and superiority of those foreigners whom they had
hitherto affected to despise. On August 29th, 1842, the
treaty of Nanking was signed, and the retention of Chusan
formed a part of the stipulations, until the payment of the
last installment of the indemnity, which was to take place
in the early part of 1846. The dreadful ravages of disease,
by which so many of our troops were brought to the grave
on the first occupation of the island in 1840, were soon
proved to be the result, not of local insalubrity, but of
unparalleled privations. For four years, since its second
capture, Chusan has been found a healthy and agreeable
residence; and many are now able to acknowledge, with
gratitude to the Almighty, the invigorating influence of
its climate, after a change from the insalubrity of Hong
Kong.
The influence, for good or for evil, which British occupa-
tion exerts, involves a responsibility of the most serious


MINGLED INFLUENCE OP BRITISH OCCUPATION. 239
kind. The consideration of this subject will naturally
awaken anxious reflections in the minds of those Christian
patriots who view even the greatness and glory of their
native land, and the wide extension of the British empire,
as events important indeed, but secondary to the interests
of the Redeemer's kingdom, and the proclamation of that
message of mercy which every where breathes the spirit
of its Heavenly Author, Peace on earth and good-will to-
ward men. The probable effects of British tenure of this
important island on the social and moral state of the popu-
lation, and indirectly on the destinies of the Chinese empire,
might have furnished an interesting subject for conjecture.
The extent, however, to which such hopes have been real-
ized is a matter more easy for investigation. It would have
argued no very sanguine temperament to have hailed the
temporary annexation of Chusan to the empire of Britain
as a rare and precious opportunity for an exhibition of the
arts and civilization of the west—of the mild but incorrupt-
ible majesty of British law—of the sublime morality and
benevolence of the Christian character—and of the fostering
influence diffused by British government on the commerce,
the liberties, and the happiness of the governed. A more
intimate knowledge, however, of human affairs, and of the
general tendency of British colonization, would, perhaps,
have moderated excessive expectations of this kind. The
actual condition of the people, and the feelings cherished
by them toward the foreigners, may afford an insight into
the real effects of British connection. The absence of all
taxation, the large amount of gain acquired by the trades-
men, and the well-known and acknowledged fact of the
impartial administration of justice equally to rich and poor,
have undoubtedly attached considerable numbers of the
people to the British. But the dark side of the picture
must be viewed before we hastily gather the self-complais-
ant inference, that we have here reared a permanent mon-
ument of our superiority to the old Chinese regime in their


240
DISAFFECTION TO THE BRITISH. eyes. Frequent deeds of violence on the part of the sol-
diery, numerous scenes of intoxication from the maddening
draughts of samshoo, a general disregard of the feelings of
the Chinese, and continual outbreaks of a proud, overbear-
ing spirit on the vanquished race, required something more
of an opposite character, to counteract their natural effect
on the native mind, than the mere spectacle of the power,
the arts, and the wealth of the new-comers. Accordingly,
we find that the popularity of the British is limited to those
on whom self-interest and lucre have operated as a bribe.
The lower classes exhibit no decided indications of hostility.
The better classes, however, who had rank and conse-
quence to lose, are naturally dissatisfied with the present
state of things. Sighing in secret for the period when they
will be able to resume their former position in society,
they maintain a cautious reserve of their opinions on all
subjects of comparison between the two governments.
Before the American residents they are less reserved, and
speak in terms of exultation of the approaching evacuation
of Chusan and the restoration of Chinese rule. The boat-
men, coolies, and servants regard the departure of the
British as a cessation of their high wages. The shopkeep-
ers, also, who have gained money from the foreign resi-
dents, are naturally sincere in their regret at the departure
of the British troops. As the mandarins will probably prac-
tice extortions on those who have acquired wealth from the
British, it is expected that many of this class will, on the
cession of Chusan, migrate for a season to the cities on the
continent, and thus contrive to escape their rapacious
avarice. The administration of police under the British has been
generally marked by a spirit of moderation and mildness;
though some of the British police officers, ignorant of the
distinctions of Chinese rank, have generally treated the
gentry and mob equally alike. On the occasion of a trivial
matter of complaint, a literary Chinese was tied by the 


BRITISH ADMINISTRATION OF POLICE. 24i
queue to a fellow-prisoner, and dragged unceremoniously,
through the gazing throngs of his countrymen, to the resi-
dence of the British magistrate, who promptly dismissed
the case. Their liability to such acts of degradation have
combined, with fear of the British, in banishing the wealth-
iest native gentry from the island. The native police em-
ployed, by the British magistrate are suspected of being
also in the secret employ of the Chinese government, as
spies on the proceedings of foreigners. They are taken
from the worst classes of the Chinese population, but do
their work well, and have been found faithful to their
present employers. Many of them have themselves been
thieves; and their acquaintance with the haunts and plans
•f their former companions in theft has afforded advantages
in the apprehension of offenders. Sometimes they affect
to be afraid of the vengeance of the thieves on the depart-
ure of the British. The petty acts of trickery current in
Chinese courts of law have been sometimes resorted to in
the most unblushing manner by criminals. It was, at first,
no uncommon occurrence for the accused to attempt in
open court to bribe the police, the interpreter, or the mag-
istrate, the people having been accustomed to a system in
which money usually carried the day. One wealthy native
merchant, who was apprehended with some stolen articles
on his person, pleaded that he was not the thief, and offered
to bring the actual thief, who subsequently came and con-
fessed the deed. The latter was sentenced, among other
punishments of a severer kind, to lose his queue. This
degradation was so unexpected that he earnestly begged
for exemption from this part of the sentence, and brought
witnesses to prove that the merchant, who had now made
good his escape, had bribed him by the sum of a hundred
dollars to plead guilty of the crime, and to be his substitute
in suffering the punishment. This vicarious punishment,
in consideration of pecuniary remuneration, is frequently
connived at and tolerated by the Chinese rulers; but it
X


242
FOREIGN TRADE.
could not be recognized by a British magistrate, and the
poor dupe had to suffer the full penalty for his avarice and
deceit. The foreign trade of Chusan has been almost a nullity,
being confined to a few ships touching on their way to the
other ports. The only vessels in the harbor are an occa-
sional ship of war, and three or four opium-ships, stationed
there as receiving-vessels. These afford the principal at-
tractions to the Chinese merchants, to the exclusion of more
regular commerce. The fumes of opium, which at all
times are wafted on the breeze and infect the whole at-
mosphere around, together with the numerous native smug-
gling-craft which beset the sides of the opium-vessels, are
some indication of the extent of this branch of traffic. Na-
tive smuggling-vessels from Taichew, Chinhai, Ningpo, and
Chapoo, constantly convey back the drug by stealth to the
mainland, and reap a rich amount of gain from their bold-
ness. The monthly sale of opium in the harbor of Chusan
averages from 225 to 230 chests. The Chinese officers at
Ningpo are said to connive at the introduction of the article
on payment of 5 per cent, ad valorem duty, i.e., from 25 to
50 dollars per chest. This is a fact of open notoriety
among the Chinese at Ningpo and Chusan. The whole
sum is supposed to be swallowed up among the venal
agents of the customs. The only general trade with for-
eigners has consisted of a few cargoes of camphor and
alum. Nothing, however, of any extent or importance has
been transacted in the absence of the former capital and
wealth of the island. The presence of foreigners will probably stamp a per-
manent character on the tastes and wants of the people of
Chusan. Trifling articles of European manufacture have
found their way into Chusan, and given a new impulse to
native skill. And thus the people will be at least half a
century in advance of their countrymen. Old prejudices
have been sapped and undermined; so that, amid all the


EFFECTS OF BRITISH TENURE. 2iii
faults and abuses of our trust, the permanent benefits con-
ferred by our temporary jurisdiction will, on the whole,
counterbalance the moral evils. The spectacle of a gov-
ernment superior to bribes and extortions has been exhib-
ited to their view. That moral power which British truth
and integrity have acquired in India—more than all our
force of arms could alone affect—has here been established
in the native mind. It may have driven from Chusan the
rich and wealthy, who, disgusted with our ignorance of
Chinese customs, were offended with the impartiality of
our administration of law. But when time shall have
blunted the sense of private wrongs, it is to be hoped that
a rule so just and incorruptible in its character, in contrast
with the corruption of their own officers, will live in the
recollection, and exercise a salutary influence upon the
minds of all classes of the inhabitants. At the present time a good understanding and a friendly
spirit of co-operation exists between the British authorities
at Chusan and the Chinese mandarins at Ningpo, as far as
it has been required in the mutual surrender of criminals
and fugitives. Complicated cases of law are generally
handed over to the che-heen of Ningpo; and, in considera-
tion of the speedy resumption of Chusan by the Chinese,
most matters of legal dispute are referred to them for per-
manent adjustment. By many persons it is believed that
the Chinese government either have succeeded, during the
last four years, in secretly levying the land-tax in Chusan,
or intend, on their resumption of the island, to levy the
whole arrears of taxation. The British authorities have,
however, done all in their power to throw the shield of
their protecting influence around the defenseless inhabi-
tants. Proclamations have been issued, bearing the signa-
ture of his Excellency the Governor of Hong Kong, prom-
ising full indemnity and protection in all cases of wrong
inflicted hereafter on those connected with the British.
Every thing has been done, both by conciliation of the na-


244 MISSIONARY ASPECT. tive authorities and by protective measures on behalf of the
people, to facilitate the transition of power. One Protestant missionary only, from the American Gen-
eral Assembly's Board of Missions, is now stationed at
Chusan, residing within the city, where he intends to main-
tain his position till summoned by the Chinese to quit the
island. The experiment which he is thus about to make
of the liberality and forbearance of the Chinese will be
awaited with much interest and anxiety. The expulsion
of the East India Company's commercial agents, more than
a century ago, after a year or two of supposed toleration in
Chusan, is a precedent which leads us to cherish only a
faint hope of any prolonged residence of foreigners being
permitted after the resumption of Chusan by the Chinese.*
As a sphere of missionary exertion, it resembles the gener-
al character of Ningpo. The dialect is the same, the char-
acter of the people is similar, the salubrity is greater, and,
under a European rule, the prospects of permanency for
educational institutions would have been highly favorable.
A beautiful island, with a fine climate and a peaceable,
well-disposed population, under the paternal influence of
just government, would have been a promising and inviting
field for missionary exertion. We leave the lovely island
of Chusan with regret, but with adoring submission to
that unseen hand of Providence which directs every event
to the purposes of the divine glory and the welfare of man-
kind. The absence of any marked feelings of regret on the part
of the inhabitants generally at their return to Chinese rule,
and the positive joy at the prospect cherished by large
numbers, are facts of interest at the present juncture, and
give birth to many reflections on the real nature of their
own government. Although relieved from all taxation, and * Recent letters from China bring the intelligence that both the Prot-
estant missionary and the Romish padre have been compelled to leave
Chusan. 


NATIVE PREFERENCE OF CHINESE RULE. 245 possessing opportunities of gain without fear of extortion
under the British, they prefer their own mandarins with all
their faults. The reason is plain, and extorts an encomium
on their internal organization, which has been reluctantly
and tardily accorded to them. The government of China
is probably the best pure despotism that ever existed.
There is an influence of public opinion, a strong national
feeling, which will survive the downfall of the Manchoo, as
of former dynasties. The petitions of the people of Ningpo
and Amoy after the late war, on behalf of their deposed
mandarins, the prevalent desire of the people of Chusan to
revert to their native rule, and the cohesion of the nation
for so long a period, prove that, amid many anomalies and
imperfections, their system of government contains much
that is essentially good, and that the people are ordinarily
better ruled than we should have thought possible in a nation
destitute of a free representative government, and unen-
lightened by the spirit of Christianity. Under a different
state of things, the people of Chusan would have hailed
the continuance of British rule as a deliverance from the
oppressive yoke of native rulers.


CHAPTER XIX. SECOND VISIT TO SHANGHAI. Voyage to Shanghai—Comparative View of the two Missionary Stations of
Shanghai and Ningpo—A new Sect of Moralists in the Interior of China—
An original Work on Geography, by Commissioner Lin—Chinese School-
master and Scholars—A Chinese Graduate's Reverence of the written
Character—A Convict suffering by Deputy—Military Reviews—Offensive
Epithets to Foreigners—Procession of the Taou-tai—Recent Supplement
to the Edict of Toleration—Voyage to Chusan. On the evening of October 11th I embarked on board a
schooner, bound for Shanghai, and weighed anchor on the
following morning. The breeze, which was at first moder-
ate, began to freshen from the south, and we soon passed
through the islands to the westward of Chusan. In a few
hours we doubled the southern headland of the island of
Kin-tang, and sailed along within sight of the city of Chin-
hai. From this point our course lay northward to the
Yang-tze-keang. The violence of the tides, as we crossed
the bay of Chapoo, was such as to render it necessary to
make allowance for the current by keeping the head of the
vessel a few points from the true course. By midnight we
were off Gutzlaff's island, and at daybreak we entered the
river. There being no land in sight, the position of the ves-
sel could only be ascertained by soundings, which gave, for
some time, only three fathoms, and afterward five fathoms.
The bank of the river soon appeared on our left, and the
low, flat island of Tsung-ming lay at a distance on our right. With the wind and tide in our favor, we rapidly sailed up
the narrow channel, and by ten a.m. came to anchor at
Woosung. Here I hired a native boat to convey me to Shanghai;
but the strength of the breeze, which was contrary, together 


248 MISSIONARY ADVANTAGES OF SHANGHAI. influence of a mission in China on the prospects of Chris-
tianity in the East—endeavoring to estimate at their just
value the existing indications of a progressive movement in
the native mind—examining in the mirror of God's word,
the present leadings of Providence and tokens for good—
and, above all, assured of the final overthrow of falsehood,
and the victory of Christian truth—the Church Missionary
Society have felt that missionary efforts for the conversion
of the Chinese ought to be taken in hand, in a spirit of
faith in some degree commensurate with the glorious object
in view, and on a scale of magnitude worthy the church to
which they belong. To concentrate and consolidate our missionary work on
some definite field, which can be strongly occupied, is ob-
viously a preferable course to that of scattering our divided
and weakened forces over an extended line of coast, among
a diversity of dialects and native character. To avoid one
error, however, it is not necessary to run into the opposite
extreme of narrowing our sphere of exertion, so as to limit
all our attention to one spot. If we wish to select one of the newly-opened ports of
China, and make it the solitary advanced picket in invad-
ing these vast regions of error, the mind is perplexed in
the choice between Shanghai and Ningpo. The former
promises to become the grand commercial emporium of
the north; and, as a nucleus of foreign intercourse, and, in
a mercantile point of view, already inferior to Canton alone,
it offers the advantages of a frequent communication with
Europe, by vessels sailing direct to Shanghai, without
touching at Hong Kong. The latter, as a quiet missionary station, exempt from
the usual deteriorating influence of a foreign mercantile
community, presents facilities of a different kind. Ningpo
approves itself to most persons as the more desirable sta-
tion, considered solely in reference to missionary work, but
seems to be too retired a spot to be the solitary seat of a


SUMMARY VIEW OF SHANGHAI.
249
mission. Time, experience, and the course of events will
alone show the real superiority of each, separately consid-
ered. But if both are occupied, and each place is thus
made to blend to its peculiar advantages, they present one
of the most magnificent fields of missionary enterprise that
the Christian Church could desire.
On the one hand, 1. Shanghai is the port of Soo-chow, from which it is
distant about fifty miles—the metropolis of classic litera-
ture, of taste, and of fashion—the Oxford of China—a cen-
ter of influence, whence the rays of native philosophy are
dispersed over the millions of educated Chinese. 2. Looking beyond the events of the present time, and
contemplating the possible extension of foreign intercourse
with the interior, we regard Shanghai also as the key to
Nanking, the old capital of the empire, and distant only
about 200 miles. 3. Again, it commands the entrance of the Yang-tze-
keang, forming, by its junction with the Grand Canal, the
vast central artery of wealth and commerce, which supplies
life and warmth to the most distant extremities of the
empire. 4. Occupying a central position, midway on a line of
coast running nearly 2000 miles from north to south, of all
the free ports it approaches nearest to the present capital,
Peking. It lies within fifty miles of the 32d degree of
north latitude, beyond which British vessels are prohibited,
by treaty, from sailing within a distance of 150 miles from
the coast. 5. If the presence of foreign influence be deemed a valu-
able adjunct to its other advantages, Shanghai (as before
intimated) already possesses an extent of commerce ex-
ceeding the united amount of all the other free ports, x-
clusive of Canton; and, as such, must become an important
rendezvous for native merchants from the interior. The
importance of this position for disseminating the Gospel


350 MISSIONARY ADVANTAGES OF NINGPO. through the interior, by means of a native agency here-
after, can scarcely be overrated. 6. Lastly, if we take a large view, and extend the eye of
faith over the boundless expanse unexplored and unoccu-
pied by missionary laborers, we behold, in either of these
two stations, the bright spot from which the light of truth
might penetrate the darkness brooding over Japan, the
Loo-choo islands, and the surrounding archipelago. To
the southeast lie the interesting group of the Loo-choo
islands, within three days' sail in either monsoon. To the
northeast we behold Japan, with its pagan millions, so long
shut out, by exclusive jealousy, from intercourse with
Christendom, within little more than three days' sail with
a favorable breeze. On the other hand, Ningpo, lying about a hundred miles to the south of
Shanghai, and enjoying many of its advantages in a modi-
fied degree, possesses additional independent facilities. 1. The population, from the limited extent of its foreign
commerce, is less exposed to the disquieting, contaminating
influences on their simplicity. 2. The literary character and social refinement of the
people of Ningpo have acquired a celebrity throughout the
empire. 3. Ningpo is the usual point of access to the populous
city of Hang-chow, which is the capital of the province of
Che-keang, and is inferior in importance only to Soo-
chow. 4. It has also an extensive native trade with the inte-
rior. 5. Lastly, its situation on the mainland, opposite to Chu-
san, invests it with an important character, under a variety
of future contingencies, of which it places us in a position
to avail ourselves. In the event of a recurrence of hostili-
ties, Chusan would probably, as in the last war, be imme-
diately occupied by British troops • and, once reoccupied, 


COMPARATIVE VIEW OF BOTH STATIONS. 251 it requires no prophetic wisdom to predict its permanent
retention, and its probable substitution for Hong Kong, as
the base of British power. This would open Chusan to
missionary efforts; and missionaries from Ningpo, speaking
the same dialect, would be ready at once to enter on this
fertile, salubrious, and populous island without destroying,
but rather cememting, the compactness of the two other
stations. At both places the climate is favorable for Europeans of
ordinary physical strength; the boundary regulations per-
mit a considerable extent of missionary exertion; the peo-
ple are friendly and respectful to foreigners; the rulers
evince no disposition to oppose the efforts of missionaries;
and the dialects of Shanghai and Ningpo, though dissimi-
lar, resemble each other more than any other two of the
consular cities of China. Should unforeseen circumstances,
therefore, lead to a change of scene of missionary labors
from one place to the other, the inconveniences under this
head would be considerably diminished. Viewed, therefore, as combining in themselves the several
distinct advantages of salubrious climate, eligible residence,
and friendly disposition of the inhabitants—of direct com-
munication with Europe, of comparatively quiet isolation
from foreigners, of contiguity to the strong-holds of native
science, of local proximity to the second largest city in the
empire, of importance in regard to Chusan, of central posi-
tion in reference to the whole of China, and of future bear-
ings of the most magnificent order on the evangelization of
the surrounding archipelago—the united missionary stations
of Shanghai and Ningpo may, without hesitation, be assert-
ed to present one of the noblest and most promising fields
in the East. Their largeness of scope, and their central position amid
surrounding regions, where one unexpected event of Prov-
idence may place millions of idolaters within reach of
Christian philanthropy, point out these two cities as uniting 


252 INCIPIENT DANG Rl AT SHANGHAI. in themselves facilities and advantages, for which we may
look in vain in any other two stations on the coast of China,
open to foreigners. At the period of my second visit to Shanghai, the mis-
sionary services were conducted in the same manner as on
my former visit. The friendly disposition of the people to-
ward foreigners remained unabated, though sometimes ex-
posed to the danger of interruption from the conduct of the
crews of the European and American vessels in the river.
Shanghai is a second Liverpool, in the extent of its com-
merce and in the various races of people attracted thither
by gain, who compose the lowest classes of its population.
Whole streets are tenanted by the men of Fokeen—the
Irishmen of China—men of ardent, impetuous, and enter-
prising minds, but turbulent and irascible withal. It is in
vain for foreigners to attempt any overbearing conduct to-
ward this spirited race. A blow for a blow, an eye for an
eye, and a tooth for a tooth is their maxim of daily life.
The Chinese generally, in these more northernly cities,
would as soon think of encountering a legion as of attack-
ing individual foreigners, whose athletic powers of bodily
strength they are apt to overrate. But the men of the
Chinchew junks have already begun to break this spell of
terror. Some incipient symptoms may be already traced
of their increasing determination to resist the aggression of
foreigners. Two or three of the mercantile residents, who
flourished their sticks rather incautiously over the heads of
these junk-men, were speedily disarmed and put to an ig-
nominious flight. This incautious demeanor toward the natives on the part
of the better class of foreigners, and the occasional excess-
es of the foreign sailors temporarily visiting the port, are
the principal danger to missionary exertions at Shanghai,
and the great obstacle to the extension of our general in-
tercourse with the respectable Chinese in all the consular
cities of China. The foreign trade at Shanghai is rapidly 


A NEW SECT OP CHINESE MORALISTS. 253 increasing. Fourteen vessels of large size were at this
time in port. The following fact, which occurred during my stay, may
be mentioned as an instance of the importance of Shanghai
in regard to the interior of China. One of the missionaries was visited by a Chinese mer-
chant from the interior, a member of a new philosophical
sect, who had banded themselves together to effect a reform
in morals, and to correct the pride and avarice of their coun-
trymen. This merchant's favorite scheme, after hearing
the missionary preach, was the possibility of grafting Con-
fucianism on Christianity, or Christianity on Confucianism,
and combining the excellence of both systems. He made
many inquiries about the nature of the Trinity, and wheth-
er the Holy Ghost was not merely the intelligent soul of
the man Jesus. Many other similar questions showed the
bias of his thoughts, and the real sincerity of his desire of
knowledge. The greatest stumbling-block to his mind
seemed to be the exclusive claims of Christianity to truth,
and its condemnation of all other systems of morality and
religion as resting on fundamental error. The same missionary was also engaged in a Chinese
publication, which possessed a considerable degree of in-
terest. A British merchant had liberally placed a thou-
sand dollars at his disposal, for incurring the expense of re-
editing a native work on geography, which had lately made
its appearance. This was the production of no less a per-
sonage than the celebrated Commissioner Lin. This func-
tionary, who bore so prominent a part in the early pro-
ceedings attending the collision with Britain, had suddenly
appeared on the political arena. Instead of being dead,
as report affirmed, he had regained the imperial favor, and
had been elevated to the high position of viceroy of two
of the interior provinces. The restoration of the disgraced
minister is some proof that the old anti-European or con-
servative party at Peking still possess a considerable influ- Y


254
A CHINESE SCHOOL. ence in the imperial councils. The geographical work al-
luded to was composed during the period of his disgrace,
and has been full of interest to the Chinese literati. Though
it abounded with many errors and misstatements respecting
western nations, it contained much that was creditable to
the understanding and knowledge of its author; and, when
pruned of its inaccuracies by the English editor, will be-
come a useful text-book to the Chinese on the statistics of
foreign lands. During my stay at Shanghai I took frequent walks
through the city, in which I was generally accompanied
by my friend M'Clatchie. On one occasion we formed the
acquaintance of a schoolmaster, whom I afterward revisit-
ed, with a present of books for himself and the more intel-
ligent of his pupils. The master and his assistant were
sitting at different ends of the school, each listening to the
recitations of a pupil. Each boy stood with his back turn-
ed on the teacher, and, rocking from side to side, enuncia-
ted, with breathless haste and in a loud singing tone, some
passage from the Ta Heoh. The teacher had a pen, with
which he inserted marks in the book, as the pupil proceed-
ed with his lesson. My entrance discomposed the gravity
of the boys, and was near producing the exercise of a se-
vere act of discipline on some of the juniors. The boys
who were setting at their desks screamed out their lessons
at the top of their voices, which is an essential part of
study in a Chinese school. The noise and uproar of a few
boys at their study is no slight disturbance to the unfortu-
nate Chinaman who occupies the adjoining dwelling. Each
of the elder scholars took some tracts, with the permission
of the teacher, in order to carry them home to their parents.
The master was very polite, and rather excessive in his
acknowledgment of the favor conferred on him by my visit.
The listless look and quiet manner of the seen-sang would
hardly prepare a visitor for that stern correction which
Chinese teachers sometimes apply to the indolence of youth.








SPECIMEN OP A NATIVE TEACHEK.
257
The strange posture of the pupil, who turns his back on
the master in order that he may be unable to look over the
book, is rather contrary to European ideas of propriety.
It has given rise to a characteristic phrase, pei shoo, literal-
ly "to back a book," which has the general meaning "to
repeat memoriter," from this practice of boys turning away
their faces from those who hear their repetitions. The teacher of my friend M'Clatchie was an extraordi-
ary specimen of this class of seen-sang. He attained the
literary rank of sew-tsai, and his degree made him almost
intolerably vain and conceited. Keaou seen-sang was about
sixty years of age, retained much of the energy of youth,
and seemed to revel in a paradise of self-complaisancy,
when we sat to listen to his magniloquent intonations of the
classics. The impassioned gesture and literary enthusiasm
of Keaou would have led us to believe that his mental en-
joyment was very great, and the ideas conveyed by the
composition very sublime. But on translating the immortal
fragment, it was frequently found to consist of some such
sentiments as these:—" He who makes just agreements
can fulfill his promises; he who behaves with reverence
and propriety puts shame and disgrace to a distance; he
who loses not the friendship of those whom he ought to
treat with kindness and respect may be a master." Notwithstanding his recent detection in an act of petty
meanness, almost amounting to dishonesty, in a pecuniary
transaction, and a severe reproof which he lately received
for attempting to excite prejudice in a Budhist priest who
visited my friend, by instilling into his mind objections to
the inelegant style of the Chinese Scriptures, he still retained
very lofty notions of his dignity. Of this the following was
an example. While engaged in instructing his reverend
pupil in Chinese, he took an opportunity of explaining the
various gradations of rank, and the conventional appella-
tions of respect current in polite society. He said, "It is
usual to apply the term szc-foo, 'doctor,' to learned schol-
Y*


258 A RICH CONVICT SUFFERING BY DEPUTY. ars, like myself, distinguished in literature. To an inferior
gentleman, like yourself, a literary student, it is usual to
give the title laou-yay, 'sir.'" He then concluded these
conceited remarks by the modest request that my friend
M'Clatchie would issue an order to his servants always to
address Keaou by the title of sze-foo, or doctor. On another occasion, his pupil was about to throw away
a piece of paper, which was inscribed with some Chinese
sentences. The old man affected great surprise and indig-
nation at the dishonor done to literature. After making
some verbal remarks, he proceeded to indite a little essay
on the honor due to writing, which he afterward presented
to his pupil, to prevent future acts of the kind. A transla-
tion of this rare document would have afforded more amuse-
ment than instruction to the Western reader. It furnished
a true specimen of Chinese logic, and of that remarkable stagnation of intellect which their puerile course of educa-
tion tends to create and perpetuate. At the same time the
fact indicated a respect for the written character, the uni-
versal prevalence of which feeling among the Chinese is
of incalculable advantage in the distribution of Christian
books, and furnishes an encouraging hope that these written
messengers of truth will meet no mutilation from the hands
of the people. In one of our excursions through the city, we passed
through the different portions of the extensive range of
buildings which form the public offices of the che-heen.
As we were examining the judgment-seat, and listening to
the proffered explanations of the by-standers, respecting a
recent case of corporal punishment with the bamboo, one
of the convicts appeared among them, bearing a large
wooden collar, which was to be worn for four months.
The culprit seemed to be in very good spirits, though
rather the worse in appearance for his incumbrance, which
projected two feet in each direction from under his neck.
On further inquiry, it appeared that he was only the substi-


MILITARY REVIEWS.
259
tute for a richer man, who had been sentenced for theft to
wear the wooden collar for four months, but had succeeded
in buying the services of a poor man as his deputy in un-
dergoing the slow torture. One month of the period of
punishment had already elapsed. The real convict was
pursuing his usual business in a distant part; and in three
months the collar-bearer would be released, with a pecu-
niary reward for his four months' captivity and disgrace.
Meanwhile, the dignity of Chinese law suffers in the public
estimation, and the humiliating fact is proclaimed from the
august seat of justice, that money has the power of atoning
for crime and purchasing an exemption from personal pun-
ishment. Hence it is no wonder that, among a people
whose only pleasures are of a sensual kind, and under a
government in whose eye riches cover a multitude of sins,
money should have become the sole divinity enshrined in
every man's affections. We sat for some time in a suit of rooms occupied by
policemen and jailers, a set of noisy, ill-looking gamesters,
whose vocation had not improved their manner nor their
physiognomy. We were permitted to look through the
bars into some of the prison-cells, the inmates of which ea-
gerly gathered around the door, and appeared to be in very
good spirits, if a judgment might be formed from their ani-
mated conversation and light-hearted humor. Oct. 21st.—I went to see the military exercising their
musketry in a large open space near the lesser southern
gate. They advanced in companies, with intervals of ten
feet between each man, and, after discharging their match-
locks, ran back a few yards to reload. Meanwhile another
party advanced to the same spot, and, after discharging
their pieces, as rapidly retreated. Their matchlocks were
of most clumsy contrivance and rude construction. There
was a larger kind of gun borne to the attack by two men,
one of whom supported it on his shoulder a few inches
from the muzzle, and the other, supporting the stock, took


260 OFFENSIVE EPITHET TO FOREIGNERS.
aim and discharged the piece. The exhibition looked very
much like child's play, and seemed to be viewed as such by
the assembled mob. On a subsequent occasion I had also an opportunity of
witnessing a sword-exercise at the same place, in which
various military evolutions were performed. Their skill
consisted chiefly in piling up their shields in fantastical com-
bination, so as to form a little wall or testudo, behind which
they sometimes retreated to escape the darts of assailants.
At another time, the more advanced ranks threw them-
selves on the ground, and covered themselves with their
shields; while those in the rear passed over them, treading
on the shields in their advance. There was also a sham-
fight, in which the combatants raised a loud yell at every
blow which they dealt, in order to strike terror into their
adversaries. When the exhibition was at an end, the
subordinate officers approached a raised area, at a little
distance, to receive the harangue of a military mandarin
who presided on the occasion. In a later part of the same day, as I was sitting to rest
myself in the shop of a tailor, who had lately arrived with
his partners from Ningpo, several Chinese assembled out-
side, and began to converse with each other about foreign-
ers. One of the Chinese was a tradesman just arrived from
Soo-chow. He asked me if I was not one of the two En-
glishmen who had lately secretly visited Soo-chow. On
my replying in the negative, he entered into a long con-
versation with the men of Ningpo, during which I heard
him apply the term quei-tze, or " devil," to the Englishmen.
I interrupted him, and showed my strong disapprobation
of such an insulting expression. The man looked startled
and ashamed, and soon watched his opportunity of taking
a sudden departure, when I reminded him that a proclama-
tion of the mandarins rendered such an expression a pun-
ishable offense. The shopmen seemed very much annoyed
at the occurrence, and explained that he was no acquaint-


EXPLANATORY EDICT OF RELIGIOUS TOLERATION. 261 ance of theirs, but a mere casual visitor. They said that
he was a bad man, "not understanding the principles of
decorum, and destitute of politeness." These were the
most galling epithets to which a Chinese ear could listen,
and the man of Soo-chow had to hear this reproof before
he could effect his exit. Oct. 24,th.—As I was proceeding in a chair toward the
European factories, then in course of erection, the taou-tai
was borne along in state through the street. My bearers
quickly laid down my chair by the side of the way close to
the wall, and all business seemed for a few minutes at a
pause, as the great mandarin approached. First of all
came a couple of men fantastically dressed, and behind
them, at the distance of a few yards, two executioners.
Soon after, two men bore those common implements of jus-
tice, the Chinese bamboo, while two more bore immense
thongs or whips of leather. The taou-tai then passed in
his chair of state, while the usual retinue of a few horsemen
brought up the rear. His appearance was that of a grave,
thoughtful old man, with long white beard and mustaches.
Whether my bearers took the liberty of dropping me down
in the street from curiosity, or from conventional respect to
their chief magistrate, I could not be certain, but was in-
clined to believe that it was from the latter feeling, and
that to have withheld this customary homage would have
exposed them to the danger of correction. Before leaving Shanghai I had an opportunity of reading
a translation of a public document purporting to be a proc-
lamation of Pe-chang, viceroy of the "Leang Keang," in
which publicity was given to an edict of Ke-Ying, the im-
perial commissioner, for transacting negotiations with for-
eign nations. This document was explanatory of the former
edict of universal religious toleration. In this second edict
the latter functionary proceeded to define the term teen choo
keaou, "the religion of the Lord of Heaven," contained in
his former edict, respecting the toleration of Christianity.


262
VOYAGE TO CHUSAN.
The term was now restricted to " those who worshiped the
Lord of Heaven, and venerated the cross," paying respect
to images, pictures, and saints. The second edict proceed-
ed to prohibit ill-disposed persons from diffusing their relig-
ious opinions under the pretext of being comprised under
the term teen choo keaou, to prevent which dishonesty the
limitation of the term was professedly made. Some of the expressions furnished ample internal evi-
dence of Popish and probably of French influence having
been employed with the Chinese authorities. It will after-
ward be seen in what way this unfair partiality was recti-
fied. On October 27th I bade farewell to my dear friends,
M'Clatchie, Bishop Boone, and the other missionaries at
Shanghai, and embarked on board a British brig for Chu-
san. We set sail the next morning, and proceeded about
five miles down the river, till the unfavorable tide compel-
led us to drop anchor. During this delay I landed on the
south bank of the river, in order to distribute tracts, but
found none of the villagers able to read. I ascertained,
however, that there were some Roman Catholics at the dis-
tance of a le (one third of a British mile), who were able to
read. After proceeding with a guide in that direction,
about half the distance, I was hastily summoned back to
the vessel, a favorable wind having sprung up in the
mean time. I left the books with my conductor, to take
to the village, who promised to fulfill my request. After anchoring for the night at the mouth of the Woo-
sung river, we sailed the next morning, with wind and tide
in our favor, down the Yang-tze-keang. It was a beauti-
ful day, and the voyage was extremely pleasant. A little
before sunset, however, the vessel was suddenly laid almost
on her beam-ends by a white squall, which, coming on
without the slightest warning, and unattended with either
rain or clouds, so often dismasts vessels in these seas. Our
vessel was, for a few moments, in great confusion, and we 


ARRIVAL AT CHUSAN. 263 expected our masts to give way before the violence of the
squall. After a scene of considerable disorder, we were again
enabled to run on in our course under reduced sail. The
captain for a time hesitated about anchoring, at sunset, un-
der the Rugged Islands; but as the wind had moderated,
and there was good anchorage throughout the bay, through
which our course lay, he determined to sail on for a few
hours till we reached some of the islands farther south.
He afterward repented of this decision, the wind soon in-
creasing to a violent gale, which carried us at the mercy of
the elements, in the dark of night, with only one sail set, at
so rapid a rate as to endanger the strength of the chain-ca-
ble if we ventured on casting anchor. After two hours ot
great anxiety, as it was conjectured that we were lwar some
of the rocky islands which lined the shore in all directions,
at nine p.m. the order was given to let go the anchor, on
which the vessel swung round, and, amid furious tossings
and drivings, rode out the storm in safety during the night.
A merciful Providence preserved us from destruction, as
we were borne toward a lee-shore in a tremendous sea, all
our lives being for the time suspended on the weakest link
that held us to the anchorage. The next morning revealed to us our position among
rocky islands on nearly every side. Soon after daybreak,
the wind having moderated, we were able to pursue our
course through the narrow but deep channel of the Blackwall
passage; and, after encountering baffling winds, anchored
a little outside Chusan harbor in the evening of October
the 30th. 


CHAPTER XX. VISIT TO THE SACRED ISLAND OF POOTOO. Voyage to Pootoo—Various Localities of the Island—The "Pah-kwa"—
The "Seen-sze"—The "How-sze"—Romantic Scenery—Hospitality of
the Abbot—Priest importuning for Gifts to the Idols—Collegiate System
of Succession to Temple-Benefices—The "Ying-sew"—Palpable Decay
of Budhism—Funeral of a Priest—Avarice and Ignorance of Monks—
Questions of People—Visit to the Summit of "Fuh-ting-shan"—A newly-
arrived Votary—General Review of Pootoo, and its Influence in the Diffu-
sion of Budhism. After a stay of a few days in the city of Tinghai, on
Nov. 5th I carried into execution the long-cherished proj-
ect of a visit to the Budhist priests in their sacred island of
Pootoo. I was accompanied by a native servant and a
crew of five Chinese, in a boat which carried two sails, and
was covered over at the top by a semicircular arch of mat-
ting stretched on hoops. This covering rose nearly five
feet from the deck, so that a person could move about in a
stooping posture. Within this part of the boat my bed and
that of my boy were stowed in separate corners, and a pot
of charcoal at the other end served to cook our provisions.
The wind and tide being unfavorable, we had only proceed-
ed three miles to the east of the harbor, when we were
obliged to anchor and wait for the change of tide. Here,
within twenty yards of the shore, our little vessel was
moored, and my Chinese companions laid themselves down
to sleep. After enveloping myself in furs, and patching up
some old sails to form a shelter from the wind at our cab-
in's head, I soon contrived to follow their example. After
two or three hours, the noise from the neighboring junks,
hauling up their anchors, roused me from my slumbers, but
lot my sleepy crew, whom I could with difficulty induce to 


VOYAGE TO rOOTOO.
265
draw up the anchor, and propel the boat by sculling, it be-
ing now slack-water. We continued to stretch along the southern shore of the
island of Chusan, which was here lined with villages of salt-
makers, as the continuous heaps of dirty deposit on the
beach indicated. At length we passed through the channel
called the Sin-kea-mun, on the northern side of which was
a large village, with one or two houses bearing the marks
of English design in their construction. Here there was a
little fleet of fishing-boats lying at anchor. The barren
sides and summits of the hills in this part would fail to im-
press on a stranger the real fertility of the interior of the
island. As we passed through the Sin-kea-mun, a junk of pirati-
cal appearance excited the suspicions and fears of our crew,
who, after sailing a little distance outside, returned within
the passage, and anchored close to some other vessels.
Here they decided on remaining till a change of tide, with-
out pushing across the open sea, a few miles, to Pootoo,
now dimly descried by starlight in the distance. We slept
as well as the roaring of the waves, the violence of the
wind, and the dashing of the surge permitted, till about
midnight, when we availed ourselves of the changing tide,
and, beating against the head-wind, succeeded, by means
of frequent tacking, in crossing the open channel to Pootoo.
Our course was rather tempestuous, and required no little
agility in clinging to the side of the boat, as we rolled from
side to side. At length, after two hours, we arrived on the
beach, and were saluted by the discordant cries of about a
dozen boatmen making inquiries. Various altercations
arose during their endeavor to haul the boat ashore from
her present awkward and uncomfortable position, where
every swell of the waves dashed her up and down on the
rocks. After clearing my little apartment of some Chinese,
who wanted to sleep around me, and whose honesty I was
not disposed to trust, T got a little sleep before morning. I Z


266
THE "PAIl-KWA."
was awoke some time before daylight by the bells and
beating of wooden sound-boards, to which the priests in an
adjoining temple were timing their idolatrous matins. On disembarking from the boat, and walking a few yards
on the beach, I found that we had taken up our position in
a little bay, sheltered by some projecting headlands of rock,
on the southeastern side of the island. The first object
which attracted my notice was a retinue of coolies, bearing a
number of bags of rice to one of the temples, from some of
the temple-lands on the adjacent islands. The bags were
inscribed, in large characters, with the name of the monas-
tery to which they belonged. Every now and then a priest
would approach the boat, and gaze on us while we partook
of our morning meal. The whole vicinity bore marks of
the indolent quietude which forms so predominant a char-
acteristic of the system of superstitious error which here
reigns in all the power of ancient renown. Soon afterward I went in a chair to explore the different
localities of the island. I had first to pass under a gorgeous
arch, of apparently recent construction, with sacred em-
blems and Chinese inscriptions painted on the boards of
which it was composed. Turning to the left, I ascended
several flights of steps, overhung by stately trees. I passed
through a series of minor temples, till at last I entered the
principal square, where several of the priests were observed,
some engaged in working, some in cooking, and others in
the idle effort to pass away their time. The buildings were
in a dirty state, but the stone steps were in tolerably good
repair. The whole assemblage of buildings was included
under the name Pah-kwa. Some of the lower class of
priests stared, others laughed, and a few examined my
books; but scarcely one of the priests in this temple could
read fluently and without hesitation over each character. After leaving this place, I ascended a hill which extended
along the eastern beach, with huge columns of rock on the
left, inscribed with sacred maxims. I soon came to a kind


THE "SEEN-SZE."
267
of grotto, crossing the road on the high ground; from which,
as I slowly descended by a well-paved path, with a pretty
avenue of shrubs on either side, I gained a full view of the
beautiful range of temples, which, under the name of Seen-
aze, form the principal monastery in Pootoo. After passing
under a monumental stone arch, I turned to the left through
a fine open space, from which an elegant bridge lay across
a small lake, with its green floating bosom of lotus-flowers.
I advanced into the principal court, and found myself speed-
ily surrounded by a number of priests, some of whom were
men of intelligence and education. Here, on applying the
usual test of reading the title-page, I found comparatively
few persons who were unable to read the characters, and
consequently my supply of books was in great request.
During this process of distribution, a bell was heard ringing
a summons to a meal in a temple at a short distance, on
which my new acquaintances suddenly scampered off, like hungry school-boys, in the direction of the dining-hall. I
was left alone with a few of the workmen and other seculai
persons, connected with the temples and permitted to reside
on the island. On going myself, shortly afterward, in the
same direction, I approached the hall as the priests, about
thirty in number, were chanting a grace to the idol, before
partaking of food; after which the process of consumption
began in right good earnest, rice and broth being the only
articles which supplied their meal. Leaving the Seen-sze, and defiling to the east, along a
row of shops, I passed, by a flight of ascending steps, to the
top of the next hill. I was carried over a series of rugged
precipices overhanging the sea, and resounding with the
billows dashing wildly beneath, with all the bold sternness
of the stormy ocean stretching far away on the horizon.
The wide expanse of watery surface was occasionally dot-
ted by a little island, or well-nigh concealed rock, where
the white foam of the breaking waves alone pointed out to
the mariner the latent danger. After proceeding, by a


A DECEASED PRIEST.
269
coolly took his seat at the table, and bowed gracefully to
every remark addressed to him by the abbot. A dirty, ill-
looking priest begged importunately for money for the idol,
as I took my departure from the outer court. On the way
back I turned into a few lesser temples, remarkable for
nothing but their indolent priests and dirty courts. The
general appearance and useless, unprofitable lives of these
bareheaded, closely-shaven monks, formed but a poor com-
ment on the boasting self-complaisant inscription, which, in
large characters, on one of the neighboring rocks, was
intended to impress the visitor with the sanctity of the place
and its priests—Chung kwo yew shing jin, "The Central
Kingdom possesses holy men." ■ .
I afterward turned aside from the broad path to the left,
by a little by-way leading from the Seen-sze, which con-
ducted us, close by a pretty stone pagoda and a number of
larger tombs, to a little temple, overhanging the sea on the
southeastern extremity of the island. Here I expected to
find an old priest, above seventy years of age, who was
well qualified to give information respecting the island, on
which for so long a period of life he had been a quiet in-
habitant. Instead of the intelligent old man, who had only
a fortnight before been found a useful and valuable inform-
ant to a missionary friend who then visited Pootoo, I was
only in time to gaze on the bare coffin which inclosed his
remains, and before which the lurid glare of sepulchral
lamps was shedding a dim and mournful luster. The su-
perstitious emblems of death were strewed in profusion
around that chamber of the dead; but the solemn realities
of the eternal world seemed in no way present to the minds
of the by-standers. One man was daubing a coat of varnish
on the exterior of the coffin. Two priests looked on and
indulged in their usual vein of light-minded frivolity, reply-
ing to my questions about the deceased with the utmost
indifference. He had died of old age about five days be-
fore, having been preferred, by seniority of standing, from


270 COLLEGIATE SYSTEM OF TEMPLE-BENEFICES.
the principal monastery, the Seen-sze, to this little temple,
which contained two other priests, and of which he was the
superior. These lesser establishments are a kind of incum-
bency, or college-preferment, to which the monks succeed,
in course, according to the seniority of their fellowships. A new superior was about to arrive from the mother-tem-
ple, to succeed the deceased. It was an affecting spectacle
to mingle with this exhibition of silver paper-money, incense-
sticks, and funeral lamps, over a corpse unillumined by the
hope of the Gospel, and uncheered by any other joy, in the
last agony of death, than that of virtual annihilation. After
proceeding down the side of a hill, and over a few hundred
yards of sandy beach, I arrived at the boat, after a trip
altogether of seven miles. Later in the day I ascended a hill close to the landing-
place, in a northern direction, till I reached a little temple
called the Ying-sew, containing fifteen priests, of kind man-
ners, some of them being also men of intelligent minds.
On entering the first large building, which contained the
principal idols, I was soon surrounded by the usual num-
ber of priests, eager to receive books. One middle-aged
priest was sitting at a table before the large images of the
three Budhs, with the apparatus of worship before him;
and, amid the loud talking of some and the boisterous
laughter of others, pursued his hurried repetitions of
"O-me-to fuh" beating time on a piece of hollow wood.
Nothing could move his equanimity or disturb his devo-
tion; and it was not till half an hour after that he joined
our party in an adjoining court, where the priests had been
performing the rites of hospitality. One of their number
was a man from Fokeen, who spoke the Mandarin dialect,
and seemed to be a person of more than ordinary educa-
tion and ability. He was about thirty-five years of age,
thirty of which he had spent in the temple as a priest. I
observed that the better order of priests were almost invari-
ably those who in childhood had been dedicated to the 


STATISTICAL FACTS RESTIX'TING BUDHISH. 2T1
priesthood. The others were an inferior class of men,
generally with little education, and of doubtful character.
From this priest I received various particulars of informa-
tion respecting the island. After explaining the general
statistics of the place, and the different localities of the
neighborhood, he informed me that the island of Pootoo
had been ceded to the Budhists, as an endowment for the
diffusion of their religion, by one of the Chinese emperors
of the Han dynasty. This date would make the origin of
their religious endowment cotemporaneous with the earliest
centuries of the Christian era. In reply to my inquiry, at
what date Budhism was supposed to have entered China,
he expressed his inability to give me the desired informa-
tion, and seemed to think me unreasonable in trying his
antiquarian knowledge on so obscure a matter. He said
that Pootoo had seen brighter days, and spoke with regret
of the degeneracy of the present age, in respect of zeal for
idolatry. He especially mentioned the fact of there having
been three hundred more priests on the island a century
ago; and accounted for the diminution in their number by
the want of interest and devotion shown by the people on
the mainland, who suffered the temples, one after another,
to fall into ruin, without incurring the expense of rebuilding
them. The endowment of the temple, in which he himself
resided, arose from 200 mow, or acres of land, assigned to
it as its revenue in the opposite island of Chew-ko-tze. Be-
sides this, they enjoyed an uncertain revenue from the offer-
ings of casual devotees visiting the sacred locality. He did
not like to specify the average annual amount of these offer-
ings; and, as there were several by-standers listening, he
appeared desirous of avoiding that subject. He stated his
opinion, that, out of every hundred priests in Pootoo, only
twenty were men of education; but that the greater num-
ber could decipher individual characters, though unable to
understand a book—a distinction which ought always to
be borne in mind in estimating the real progress of educa-


272
FUNERAL OF A PRIEST. tion among the Chinese. On my leaving, they followed me
in a body to the outer gate. In the evening I took a short excursion to the top of a
hill overlooking the Seen-tze, where I met ten priests going
to a funeral on the beach. They invited me to accompany
them, and put several questions to me on our way. Among
other similar inquiries, showing the real current of their
affections, amid all the affected sanctity of the cloister, were
the following: "How far is it to England? How man)
days' voyage is it to your country 1 Does it possess much
silver 1 Is it a rich country 1 Has it any idols or priests 1
May we go with you to England V I told them that they
were welcome to go with me to England, if they were will-
ing to defray the expenses of the voyage. On their learn-
ing the amount of the passage-money, they seemed to aban-
don as hopeless the idea of ever reaching a land in which
they apparently thought that dollars might be picked up
like pebbles on the sea-shore. On arriving at the beach we were joined by some other
priests, whose arrival raised their number altogether to
twenty. Preparations were now made to lift the coffin
from the boat to the shore. This was done amid much
noise and levity, the boatmen scolding each other, and the
priests exchanging jokes and loud laughter. The deceased
was a priest of the island, who had died at Ningpo in the
course of the excursions on the mainland, and had been
brought hither, a distance of seventy miles, for interment
in the sacred soil of Pootoo. His death occurred about a
week previously, and the process of corruption had already
commenced. After the coffin had been landed and placed
on some stools for support, the customary preparations took
place, and a procession was formed by the priests, who
advanced in couples. A dirge was chanted, accompanied
by the tinkling of a bell and the beating of a sound-board.
Three other priests, who seemed to be related to the de-
ceased, placed incense-sticks, candles, and fruit on a table 


ASCENT OF "FUH TING SHAN." 273
before the coffin, and bowed to the ground, knocking their
foreheads against the stones, before a small tablet inscribed
with the name of the deceased. After this, a layman, who
was said to be the adopted son of the deceased, proceeded
to bow, in adoration of the departed spirit, with due form
and solemnity. Immediately after rising from these pros-
trations they approached me, and asked several questions
with the utmost unconcern. The priests were frequently
talking, and even laughing, in the midst of their chant.
The lay relative, who was not more than twenty years
of age, asked me if I could give him some opium-medicine.
He admitted that he was addicted to the indulgence of
smoking opium, and stated his inability to abandon the
habit, although he was desirous of being freed from its
power. One of the priests also asked me for the same
medicine, but denied that he smoked opium, saying that
he wanted it in order to cure a friend of the habit. The
funeral procession moved slowly off to the place of sepul-
ture, about a mile distant, amid a continued beating of
gongs to affright the evil spirits. Two shopkeepers, attached to the Seen-sze, soon after-
ward joined me. They made several inquiries about the
books which I had distributed, and the object of my visit
lo Pootoo. They asked if persons who embraced the
Christian religion were permitted to eat animal food and
drink wine; which questions were naturally suggested by
the abstinence from these particular articles of diet profess-
ed by the Budhist priests. The next morning I proceeded to visit some remote
localities, situated at the northern and western extremities
of the island. After pursuing my way about three miles
to the How-sze, I turned by a devious path on the left, and
ascended the steep acclivity known by the name Fuh ting
shan, "Budh's highest hill." In some parts the ascent lay
over steep flights of stone steps, with which the hilly parts
of the island abounded. From the summit a fine view was


274
NATIVE HUSBANDRY. gained of the sea and the numerous surrounding islands;
Mid, in order to remind the stranger of the extensive do-
minion of the deity who ruled these realms of superstition,
the inscription stood forth from the projecting rock in large
and legible characters, Hai teenfuh kwo, "the sea and the
heaven are Budh's kingdom." After descending a little
distance on the other side of the hill, amid a small avenue
of cedars and cypresses, I arrived at one of the lesser tem-
ples of the island, containing twenty-five priests. The
name fuh, "Budh," met the eye in every direction,
with other inscriptions calculated to impress the visitor
with the sanctity and harmony of these hermits in their re-
treat from the busy world. At the entrance there sat the
sleek, smirking idol of Budh, with the body gilded over,
and blue tresses of hair on his head. The priests were
very illiterate and ignorant, scarcely three of the whole
number being able to decipher a character. The place,
also, was overgrown with filth, and bore evident marks of
decay. The vacant stare and half-idiotic appearance of
these poor creatures produced a gloomy feeling, which the
fine view of the sea on the opposite side of the island failed
for some time to dissipate from my mind. Later in the day I went over some fields along the west-
ern beach, in which several husbandmen were pursuing
their labor. My visit caused them some little interruption,
from the difficulty which they experienced in subduing the
mad impetuosity of their buffaloes, who seemed to be un-
accustomed to barbarian features, and disposed to rush to
an attack. I returned by a circuitous route, passing through
some quadrangles of the Seen-sze on my way. Here I found
that the abbot, the principal authority in the island, was
absent at Ningpo. Some of the other priests invited me
to take some tea; and, on my entering a large hall, I saw
some of the books which I distributed on the preceding
day lying on the tables in different parts of the room. As
I sat among them, they showed many acts of civility, and 


RETURN TO CHUSAN.
275
■aid that they would not object to my coming to reside
on the island; in which event I should receive good treat-
ment from them. Actual experience might hereafter prove
these assurances to have been insincere. I could, how-
ever, see no reason at the time to doubt their sincerity.
There appears to be so little religious bigotry among the
Chinese, that there is reason for believing that the feelings
of self-interest, in the gain of a few dollars from rent of
lodgings, would, in the minds of the priests, outweigh all
considerations of fear for their religion or zeal for their su-
perstitions. In the middle of the day I met a tradesman on the
beach, who had just landed from Tinghai. He was dress-
ed in his best clothes, and brought with him a number of
presents. He told me that he was come on a pilgrimage
to Pootoo, for the purpose of making an offering to the
idols. On my endeavoring to show him the folly of wor-
shiping lifeless objects, and exhorting him to worship the
one true God, the Creator of heaven and earth, he re-
mained some time with me, and promised to accept my in-
vitation to visit me on his return to Tinghai, at the house
of my missionary friend, within the northern gate of the
city. He pleaded the power of custom as his only induce-
ment to the practice of idolatry, and seemed to be influ-
enced more by a feeling that it tended to good luck in his
trading business, than by any regard to the character and
objects of his devotions. In the afternoon we set sail with a fair wind and favor-
able tide, and after a rapid passage of three hours and a
half arrived in the harbor of Chusan. The scenes of curious interest among which I had been
mingling were calculated to awaken many conflicting emo-
tions. The most careless mind, when brought into such a
vicinity of monastic brotherhoods and temple endowments,
and led to observe the marks of design which pervaded
these institutions, as a grand and diversified machinery for


276
GENERAL VIEW OF POOTOO. the diffusion of Budhism, could not fail to be struck with
the mutual affinities which exist between the various sys-
tems of error, and to exclaim, " How faithful a counterpart
this of Popery!" A more magnificent scheme could hard-
ly be conceived or devised for the external diffusion of
Budhism, and the maintenance of its hold over the popular
mind. The project is one worthy the Propaganda of Rome
in the most palmy days of her activity and priestcraft. At
the present time above six hundred priests reside on the
island, in the leisure and moderate affluence of an ample
endowment. Three hundred other mendicant friars and
itinerant priests are generally absent in the neighboring
provinces, subsisting on the alms and offerings of the super-
stitious. Bound by their vows to a life of celibacy, they
are left free from the cares of domestic life, to pursue,
without distraction, the work of proselytism. After a sea-
son of active exertion, they return to this isolated spot, as-
sociated with all the ancient glories of Budhism. Here
they are permitted to refresh their weary bodies and ex-
hausted minds with the natural beauties of scenery, the
quiet solitude of contemplation, and a deeper initiation in
the mysteries of their order, ere they pour forth anew their
invigorated energies on the millions of the Chinese empire.
The prescription of antiquity, and the devout liberality of
ancient monarchs, have done all they could to enhance the
external influence of the brotherhoods. The whole island,
which is about one hundred le (thirty miles) in circumfe-
rence, forms, together with the smaller adjacent islands, the
territory of the principal abbot residing in the Seen-sze. This ecclesiastic divides a portion of his authority with the
superior of the other principal monastery, the How-sze.
Free from all payment of revenne to the imperial govern-
ment, Pootoo is left under the sacred control of the princi-
pal bonze. He acts as governor in matters of an ordinary
kind; and only in penal matters, which demand a more
rigid correction than the mild restraints of sacerdotal rule,


PALPABLE DECAY OF BUDHI9M. 277
is a reference made to the chief magistrate of Tinghai.
The priests are chiefly from the neighboring province of
Che-keang; but a large number flock hither from the more
distant provinces of the empire. In the Seen-sze one hund-
red and fifty monks reside, and in the How-sze about eighty.
There are also seventy-two lesser temples scattered over
the island, with their resident inmates, all of them occupy-
ing the most romantic spots. The secularizing influence
of female society is not permitted to allure these devotees
from their abstractions. No women are permitted to dwell
on this consecrated soil. Three hundred individuals of
secular callings, whose services are deemed necessary for
the tillage of the soil and the supply of the necessary wants
of the priests, are alone allowed to remain on the island.
But the privilege extends not to the dead: only priests
can be buried in Pootoo. No secular bones are permitted
to whiten on the sacred soil, or to defile the sanctity of the
place. Every thing which human foresight could devise
has been conferred on Budhism to enable it to make a gi-
gantic and systematic effort for the amelioration of mankind.
It has here enjoyed ample scope for the exercise of its
influence: it has found a fair field for the development of
its inherent powers for good or evil. And yet, supported
alike by the favor of the powerful and the partialities of
the multitude, Budhism has achieved no results; and seems
destined ere long to fall, from mere inherent decay, irre-
spectively of accelerating causes from without. For a
justification of this belief, we look not only to the dilapida-
ted state of their temples, and the illiterate character of
their priests, but also to the evident signs of contempt
among the people. To this may be added the obvious
marks of skepticism among the priests themselves, in whose
deportment there is seldom to be seen any indication of
their own belief in the superstitions which they practice.
Some might be tempted, in the view of this metropolis of
Budhism, to give utterance to the wish that Christianity
A A


CHAPTER XXI. DEPARTURE FROM CHUSAN TO FOO-CHOW FOO. Concluding Occurrences at Chusan—Political Fears of the Chinese—Ex-
cursion across the Island—Cases illustrative of the advantage of medical
missionary Efforts — Voyage to Foo-chow — Roman Catholic Pilots —
Mouth of the River Min—Picturesque Scenery—Approach to the City. The difficulty and delay experienced in obtaining a pass-
age down the coast to the city of Foo-chow detained me
another month at Chusan, during which time I remained
under the hospitable roof of the only other Protestant mis-
sionary in the city of Tinghai. On the Sabbath I contin-
ued to hold a service in the joss-house near the barracks for
the European troops, a few of whom also availed them-
selves of our family-service on Thursday evenings. During
the first few days, the quiet monotony of daily occurrences
was a little diversified by the general rejoicings and street
illuminations of the Chinese, on the occasion of the birth-
day of the emperor's mother. The approaching evacuation
of the island by the British had evidently unsettled the
minds of all the respectable classes of Chinese; and the
effect of this feeling was frequently observable in their fear
of paying visits to my American friend, and their unwilling-
ness to be seen reading Christian books. Although the
parents of the pupils had previously agreed to bind their
children by articles of indenture for a term of years, to in-
sure their non-removal before the completion of their edu-
cation, they now evinced a reluctance to comply with the
condition, and to affix their signatures to the writing. They
disavowed any personal objection, but professed to enter-
tain an alarm, lest any connection of this kind with foreign-
ers might draw on them the notice of the mandarins, and
expose them to extortions on the departure of the British.


280 EXCURSION ACROSS THE ISLAND. They therefore requested to be permitted to wait till things
were in a more settled state. The edict of toleration, issued
by Ke-Ying, was on such occasions shown to them, with
which they professed to be abundantly satisfied, saying,
"There is nothing foreign in this document: there is no
possibility of mistaking it: it can not be a forgery, for the
style is such as only a Chinese can have indited." For a time they appeared satisfied; but soon after again
betrayed their fears. At this period matters had almost
assumed the appearance of a general panic among all who
had money to lose. The merchants and shopkeepers, who
had acquired any gain by connection with the British, had
every thing prepared for a general and sudden emigration
on the departure of the troops. Some intended to remove
to Shanghai, and others to different parts of the mainland,
till the first storm of official cupidity and displeasure had
blown over, when they would watch their opportunity of
returning. The edict of the British governor of Hong
Kong had been affixed to the walls of the public streets,
inviting a disclosure of any future cases of oppression on
the return of the Chinese mandarins, and promising full
protection to those who should be punished for their con-
nection with the British. The permanent retention of the
island by the British, and its occupation by the French,
were, in turn, the subject of report among the Chinese.
The rumored diplomatic difficulties between the British
and Chinese plenipotentiaries, relative to the entrance of
foreigners within the city of Canton, served also to increase
the general excitement. Some of the more patriotic Chi-
nese even ventured to breathe into American ears their sus-
picions of the integrity of the British, whom they denounced
as seeking an excuse for breaking the treaty, and retaining
possession of Chusan. On Nov. 14th I proceeded, in a chair, with a friend,
across the island to the beach on the northern shore. We
pursued our way through the north gate of the city; soon


VILLAGES OF CHUSAN.
281
after passing which, we turned a little to the right, and as-
cended the hills through a long series of wild, mountainous
paths. The narrow road was intersected by the deep beds
of torrents, and skirted on either side by numerous rustic
dwellings, with little patches of vegetation surrounding
them. We at length reached the principal mountain-pass,
from which we had a fine view of a long fertile valley,
which extended before us to the sea. After passing through
several homesteads and hamlets, we at last stopped an hour
in a large village, at a druggist's shop, who bade us wel-
come, and helped us to cook our meal of rice, eggs, and
tea. Meanwhile, a number of villagers gathered around
us, and the few who could read received some books. Two
miles farther on, we remained some time on the beach,
while the Chinese salt-makers explained to us the process
of successive evaporations by solar and culinary heat, by
which the sea-water is converted into salt. Large, shallow
sheets of sea-water on the sand, a few pits for filtering the
briny fluid, and a number of sheds, with furnaces and flat,
brazen vessels, formed the apparatus for the manufacture
of salt, which forms so important an article in the native
produce of Chusan. At this point several thousands of
acres of rich, alluvial, loamy soil stretched away to the
hills five miles distant. This fertile plain, bearing its two
or three crops of annual produce, would be more than
sufficient to supply ten times the amount of the present
population of the island. As we returned to the city, we
visited a distillery, the apparatus of which, although more
rude and less complex than in Western nations, was capa-
ble of producing a spirit of great strength and very intoxi-
cating effects. In one of the villages a bonze was officia-
ting among a crowd at the idolatrous services usual at the
full-moon festival, the gongs and drums being audible at a
great distance. At the highest point of the mountain-pass
there was a little assemblage of idols in a rude kind of
temple. One of the images represented the goddess of


282 IMPORTANCE OF MEDICAL MISSIONARY LABORS. mercy, in the usual attitude of a male infant in her arms,
which a European visitor might easily have mistaken for
an image of the Virgin Mary. During the latter part of my stay at Chusan, the frequent
wailings of funeral processions showed the prevalence of
sickness among the people. On one occasion I was attract-
ed to a house, in which two priests of the Taou sect were
endeavoring, by noises, to drive away the evil spirits, and
to procure, by a feast set out before the idols, the recovery
of a sick woman in the family. On my entering, I was
speedily taken to her bedside, and was entreated to pre-
scribe some remedy for her disease. After rebuking their
folly in trying to effect her recovery by such superstitious
means, I gave her a temporary remedy, till a day or two
after, when I took her with me to the house of an Ameri-
can physician, just arrived in Chusan, and received his di-
rections as to the mode of treatment. This, being followed
out for a few days, was the means of completely restoring
her, although she had been given over by the native practi-
tioners. Her recovery was a subject of thankfulness to my
mind, as I was afraid that, in case of her death, the priests
might attribute the event to the anger of the offended idols.
The gratitude of the family was very great, and the case
procured me some reputation for medical skill. I had sev-
eral visitors, who followed out my course of treatment,
although I enforced a rigid interdiction of the use of to-
bacco and samshoo while they took my medicines. I had
also, by these means, an opportunity of distributing some
tracts in a few private families. These little occurrences
served to deepen in my mind a conviction of the import-
ance of medical missionary efforts, when kept in their sub-
ordinate place, as mere subsidiary means in preparing the
way for Christian evangelists in this heathen land. On Dec. 9, 1845, an opportunity presented itself of my
proceeding to Foo-chow, in a little schooner in ballast, touch-
ing at Chusan on her way from Shanghai to that port,


VOYAGE TO FOO-CHOW.
283
Embarking at nine a.m., I found myself, in another hour,
passing gradually out of sight of this beautiful island, in
which I had been permitted to spend several weeks very
happily in the quiet retirement of a Christian family. A
steady breeze and favorable tide bore our little craft stead-
ily along, and the fair blue hills of Chusan were soon
lost in the dim distance. Passing beyond Ketow point,
we at length arrived at a little island which had a hollow
cavern running through it, and hence derived its name of
"Buffalo's nose," from a fanciful resemblance to that ob-
ject. Between this and another small island to the east
we anchored for the night. On the following morning, the
thick, rainy weather, increasing to a dark mist, prevented
our weighing anchor, and we remained off the island the
whole day. During the succeeding night a little fleet of
trading-junks, with two war junks, anchored within a cable's
length, the two latter vessels being stationed one off each
bow of our schooner. This was the occasion of our car-
ronades and swivel-guns being loaded, and a sharp lookout
was kept on our new neighbors. All this was, however
unnecessary, as at the first dawn of day they quietly left the
anchorage, and sailed in a body to the south, keeping close
to the shore. In the forenoon we weighed anchor, and,
with a strong breeze from the northwest, soon passed be-
yond the Kwesan group of islands into the open sea. Dur-
ing the day we sailed very fast; and fearing lest, before
the following daybreak, we should overrun our course, we
shortened sail during the night, and on the following morn-
ing drew in sight of land. During several hours we passed
between some islets and the mainland, at one time sailing
in smooth water, and soon afterward emerging into some
bay of the open sea which indented the coast. The thick,
cloudy weather prevented us from ascertaining our position
by an observation of the sun, and no one on board was able
to recognize the coast. After sailing forty miles between
rugged, precipitous islands, we were compelled at sunset, to


284
ROMA\ CATHOLIC PILOTS.
come suddenly to anchor in deep water, under a small island,
with but little shelter from the violence of the wind, and
with a lee-shore about half a mile distant. After an uncom-
fortable night of tossing and driving, the next morning we
again proceeded on our course to the southward. A Ningpo
junk sailed by us as we were weighing anchor, and we had
hopes of finding our true course by following in her track.
We soon, however, lost sight of her, as she sailed through
some little passage close to the mainland, where we were
afraid to follow her. Steering to the southwest between the
shore and an irregular range of islands lying ten miles out-
side, we suddenly discovered our position in time to avoid
running on the reef at the mouth of the river Min, which
lay before us. We had suddenly to alter our course, and
to beat against the wind, which was blowing hard, till we
came to an anchorage under an island called Ma-choo san.
Here we rode at anchor for the night, close to a little vil-
lage of fishing-boats, which was situated on a small sandy
level point in a narrow bay to the south of the island. The next day, Sunday, Dec. 14th, two fishermen came
on board to volunteer their services as pilots, for which
they claimed a rather exorbitant reward. But as they
soon became more reasonable in their demands, the bar-
gain was struck for the sum of five dollars, and they were
duly installed at the helm. On their first coming on board,
they crossed themselves repeatedly on the forehead, cheeks,
and breast, after most approved Roman Catholic fashion,
which seemed not a little to please our Malabar steward,
and appeared to be generally understood by our Indo-Span-
ish crew of Manilla men. The inconvenience of the differ-
ent dialects soon began to show itself. The Canton lin-
guist, who could also speak the Mandarin dialect, tried in
vain to get a reply to his question, "How far is it to Foo-
chow V But although for nearly ten minutes the phrase-
ology was varied in every possible way, the parties were
as far from understanding each other as at the commence-


386
ARRIVAL AT FOOCHOW.
was a mandarin-station, with a custom-house establishment.
The river at this point was about a mile across, being
hemmed in on all sides by huge towering rocks, which were
variegated and gilded with the sun's rays, so as to present
almost every imaginable form, and glittered with the tor-
rents and cascades rushing down the precipices after the
recent rains. The combined influence of refraction and re-
flection raised every distant object above the horizon, and
gave it a double appearance, the lower part having an
inverted form. A succession of villages and watch-towers
extends on the right for several miles, till the sides of the
river, suddenly converging, form another narrow pass, called
the Min-gan, with columns of rocks on either side, piled up
to the height of a thousand feet. Soon after, the river
again widens, and, at the Pagoda Island, the usual anchor-
age of vessels of large burden, divides into two streams.
The principal branch leads to the city, and the other takes
a southern course, rejoining the main branch of the river
Min, about seven miles above Foo-chow, so as to inclose
between the two channels a large island of well-cultivated
land. We sailed up the principal channel, having the lofty
range of the Koo-shan rising 3000 feet on our right. There
were a few villages below, and some little groves of pines
on the opposite shore. We arrived at last at the bar, situ-
ated at a sudden bend of the river. At this point the larger
number of junks, and increasing signs of busy activity, in-
dicated our approach to the provincial capital. After half
a mile's intricate winding course between the native craft,
we arrived in the densest part of the river suburbs, and
went ashore close to a large bridge, which at this point
crosses the river Min. 


CHAPTER XXII. DAILY OCCURRENCES AT FOO-CHOW. Novel Appearance of River Population—The Bridge of Foo-chow—Vivid
Scenes of a Chinese Suburb—British Consulate—View of the City from
the Summit of " Woo-thih than"—State of Relations between the Brit-
ish Consul and the local Mandarins—Punishment of some Tartars for
Assault—An Excursion around the City Walls. The friendly kindness of a newly-formed acquaintance
placed at my disposal, during my stay at Foo-chow, the upper story of a small boarded house, overhanging the
river, and situated on a small island about a furlong in
length. In this lodging my matress was unfolded, and
spread after oriental fashion, and I was soon inducted into
my new dormitory. After a night of refreshing rest, the
vociferating cries of my new neighbors, the boatmen, carry-
ing on their busy vocations on the water, effectually roused
me at an early hour; and sallying forth on a little kind of
gallery, I had an opportunity of being a quiet spectator of
the motley groups below. A large number of boats, serv-
ing as family residences to their humble owners, lined each
bank of the river for about a mile on either side, the prin-
cipal clusters being stationed around the little island, which
blocks up the main channel, and divides it into two streams.
Each boat was decked out with a number of flower-pots
and evergreens, according to the taste or the means of the
proprietor, and presented a pleasing object from above,
The boatwomen wore a headdress of artificial flowers, and
exhibited a neatness unusual in that class. The tops of the
boats and the roofs of the houses were covered with a hoar-
frost, which lasted for several days, ice being gathered on
one or two mornings.


288
SCENES IN A CHINESE SUBURB. The celeDrated bridge of Foo-chow connects the little
island with each bank of the river and, probably from the
substantial and durable materials of which it is composed,
is called the Wan-show-keaou, or "bridge of ten thousand
ages." The larger bridge on the northern side consists of
about forty arches, which are merely immense slabs of
granite, thrown across at right angles with the piers.
The lesser bridge on the south consists of nine similar
arches. At high-water vessels of small burden can pass
up the stream by lowering their masts. At low-water a
cascade is formed from the higher part of the stream into
the lower level of the river on the other side. The larger
bridge is occupied by shops, and its narrow thoroughfare is
generally crowded by all kinds of busy wayfarers. Over this
bridge I proceeded in a chair, on my way to the residence
of the British consul, between whose hospitable dwelling
and my little lodging on the island I divided the time of my
subsequent stay at Foo-chow. A long suburb consisting
of a single street, and abounding with every variety of
trades and handicrafts, extended for more than two miles
from the bridge to the southern gate of the city. Every
part of it was thronged by the same noisy crowds of people,
in whom were to be observed more pugnacious looks, and
more frequent signs of intemperance, than are commonly
seen in the northern parts of China. The frequent jost-
lings and blows from the chair-bearers, inseparable from the
crowded state of Chinese streets, were generally borne with
their usual calm indifference. On a few occasions, howev-
er, I experienced no slight interruption from this cause, and
my bearers were involved in trouble, being unceremo-
niously apprehended, to compensate the damage to various
articles of domestic use, which they broke or upset in their
eagerness to press forward. One literary gentleman, also,
so far forgot the precepts of his philosophy, as to follow
us for above a hundred yards, seizing every opportunity of
beating most unmercifully the head of one of the bearers, 


290 THE BRITISH CONSULATE.
the usual crowds of china-shops, pipe-makers, grain-deal-
ers, paper and tinfoil manufacturers, weaving-looms, silk-
dealers, trinket-makers, and, lastly, a few book-shops, to
indicate that, amid the general eager activity to supply the
wants of the outward man, knowledge had its votaries, and
the mind could here receive its appropriate intellectual
food. Occasionally three or four bonzes sauntered by,
whose listless looks betrayed their little participation in the
busy cares of the world around them; and whose sancti-
monious garb afforded no protection from the rude jostling of the secular crowd. Now and then a few gentlemen, or
expectants of office, passed along, borne on the shoulders
of their less affluent countrymen. Lower down in the
scale of society might be seen, every half mile, some
wretched culprits, bearing the heavy wooden collar as a
penalty of the broken laws, blowing at the scanty charcoal
with which they sought to repel the pinching cold from
their extremities, or trying in vain to obtain the denied
slumber. Farther onward, again, the possessors of liberty
were assembled in a public tea-tavern, sitting over their
beverage, to listen to an itinerant scholar, who expounded,
for hire, one of the ancient classics, or declaimed from his
humble rostrum on some exciting subject of popular ro-
mance. We soon entered the city, through the massive archway of the southern gate, and proceeded, by a sudden
turn on the left, along the inner side of the city wall.
After pursuing our way for another mile, over a thinly-
inhabited part of the city, we passed through a fine ave-
nue of trees. The British union was soon after to be seen
floating from a flag-staff on the overhanging rocks which
crown the summit of the Wbo-shih shan, or " Black Stone
hill." An ascent over alternate pathways and terraces
brought me at length into full view of the romantic assem-
blage of pleasure-grounds and ancestral temples which
form the site of the British consulate. On this beautifully-
wooded retreat the largest temple was in course of prepa-


CHINESE LIBERALITY. 291 ration for an English residence, and was already partially
inhabited by the consul and his lady. The firmness of the
late consul, Mr. Lay, succeeded in effecting a removal of
his official residence from the insalubrious vicinity of the
river-suburb to its present agreeable site. The Chineue
authorities exerted their influence with the priests of the
principal temple, who, for the consideration of a few hund-
red dollars as annual rent, willingly abandoned their claims
to the building. With that loose attachment to their reli-
gion, which is generally characteristic of the whole nation,
the priests beheld with complaisancy their benefice and
grounds changed into a foreign residence; and the abbot
himself, in the character of head-gardener, might be seen
every day busily superintending the requisite alterations
and repairs. Although taking the life of animals is a vio-
lation of a prominent article in the Budhistic creed, my old
friend, the abbot (for during my stay I had the pleasure of
forming his acquaintance), would at all times readily afford
his services in procuring for foreigners pheasants, geese,
ducks, and any kind of game. The liberality of the man-
darins was perceptible in one of the conditions which they,
of their own accord, introduced into their agreement with
the building-contractor, viz., that the masons and carpen-
ters should never perform any work on the Sabbath Day,
nor in any way interfere with the religious observances of
the English. In the same spirit the mandarins, before pay-
ing the consul a visit, frequently sent to inquire whether it
was the Sabbath Day or not. The abbot, also, of an ad-
joining Taouist temple, with a remarkable absence of big-
otry, for a small monthly sum has willingly admitted one
of the officers of the consulate as a tenant of a portion of the
sacred building. From the top of Woo-shih shan, 500 feet above the sur-
rounding level, a fine view is gained of the city and the
adjacent country. As I sat on a corner of one of the pro-
jecting rocks, with the huge masses of stone lying around 


292 VIEW FROM THE "WOO-SHIH SHAN."
and aloft, the perennial monuments of one of nature's most
violent convulsions, the quiet solitude of the spot where I
lingered contrasted strongly with the busy scenes below,
and the animated appearance of the adjacent country. At
my feet lay the populous city of Foo-chow, with its teeming
masses of living industry. At a little distance beyond, the
undulating plains, which surrounded the city, retreated on
either side, till they met a range of lofty hills, rising from
two to three thousand feet in height. On the east, north,
and west, at the distance of five miles, a slightly-broken
country terminated in some high precipitous ground, which
formed a bold amphitheater around the northern half of the
city. On the south, a level country extended across the
river, nearly twenty miles, to another series of hills, which
closed in the prospect. The river, with its meandering
turbid waters, pursued its rapid course from west to east,
a depression in the outline of the distant hills showing the
direction in which the river divided their range. The
whole country around formed a circular basin, with a diam-
eter of about twenty miles. In the city itself the dingy expanse of houses and streets
was relieved by a hill, which rose abruptly at the northern
extremity, and was surmounted by a conspicuous watch-
tower. On the southeast, another hill, rising from the level
of the streets, and having its sides covered with interspersed
dwellings and temples, rivaled in height the hill on which I
was stationed. Two pagodas intervened between the two
hills in the southern portion of the city. In other parts, high
ornamented wooden poles, or the bright-red colors of the
walls, denoted the various temples, or the residences of the
great mandarins of the city. The devious and irregular
circuit of the city walls, the strange forms of the city watch-
towers, the more regular appearance of the public grana-
ries, and the verdant foliage of trees peeping forth from
among the crowded streets, imparted some relief to the
fatiguing similarity of objects. 


294 RELATIONS BETWEEN CONSUL AND MANDARINS. strolls as an interpreter, and in explaining any objects that
might arrest my attention. At the time of my arrival at Foo-chow, the relations
which subsisted between the British consul and the local
authorities had assumed a character of more than ordinary
interest. The late Mr. Lay, on his arrival in the latter
part of 1844, to open the port, had to encounter considera-
ble obstacles in the unwillingness of the Chinese authorities
to grant him a suitable residence, and the symptoms of a
general disposition to slight his office. As it has been
already intimated, persevering firmness and determined re-
monstrances had surmounted these temporary difficulties,
and a growing spirit of liberality and respect toward for-
eigners had been excited. The removal of the consulate
into the city, and a frequent interchange of visits, had grad-
ually produced a friendly understanding with the Chinese
authorities, which was also happily promoted by the pres-
ent consul. Repeated proclamations were issued, inculca-
ting respect toward foreign strangers, and denouncing pun-
ishment against offenders. Things proceeded favorably,
till about three months previously to this time, when a gen-
tleman, attached to the consulate as interpreter, as he was
walking on the city wall, adjoining the quarter of the city
inhabited by the dominant race of Manchoo Tartars, was
assaulted by a number of men, who pelted him with stones,
and chased him from the spot. This assault was made a
subject of grave remonstrance with the authorities, and the
threat was held out by the consul of the visit of a ship-of-
war, unless speedy reparation were made by the summary
punishment of the offenders. Copies of his remonstrance
were sent alike to the viceroy and the Tartar general, the
latter of whom possesses exclusive jurisdiction over the
Manchoo part of the population, who form the garrison of
the city. Although, at first, they treated it as a light mat-
ter, and issued a proclamation, in which, with a strange
mildness of terms, they affected to speak angrily of the 


TRIP AROUND THE CITY WALLS. 295 "breach of good manners" committed on the occasion of
this assault on a stranger, the determined protest of the
consul against the terms of the proclamation soon brought
matters to a crisis. The Tartar general, in the paroxysm
of his alarm at the possible consequences of a collision, ar-
rested six Tartars for the offense, three of whom were pun-
ished with the bamboo, and the other three underwent the
severe punishment of the cangue, or wooden collar, for a
month. The novel and unprecedented event of a Manchoo
Tartar wearing the cangue, from which mode of punish-
ment they had hitherto enjoyed a prescriptive immunity,
and the humiliating announcement, attached as usual to the
wooden plank, of the crime for which they were punished,
and that, too, an assault committed on a new-comer and a
stranger, were doubly mortifying to the pride of this arro-
gant class of inhabitants, as it was also a subject of invidi-
ous exultation among the purely Chinese portion of the pop-
ulation. During the few preceding weeks there had arisen
an evident improvement in the position of foreign residents.
During my stay, I had frequent opportunities of testing
the truth of this fact, and the result of this experiment will
be seen in the following journal of daily occurrences. Dec. l&th.—I was carried in a chair on the city walls
around their whole circuit, which formed altogether a dis-
tance of eight or nine miles. Ascending at a breach in the
wall, close to the foot of the Woo-shih shan, I proceeded in
a westernly direction. A little avenue, formed by the bat-
tlements on one side, and a little row of trees close to the
wall on the other, skirted the lower part of the Woo-shih
shan, with its beautiful assemblage of shrubberies rising up
the hillside. The wall itself varied in height, but generally
averaged thirty feet on the outer side. The causeway on
the top was of sufficient breadth in most places to form a
road for a single carriage, and was of regular and even con-
struction, although overgrown with grass along the edges.
As Foo-chow is a garrison city with a large provincial staff


296
SUSPICION OF THE SENTRIES.
of civil and military mandarins, the walls are guarded with
great strictness, and there is a succession of watch-towers
every two or three hundred yards, with a few cannon rest-
ing on carriages without wheels, and pointing outward into
the adjacent country. From the clumsiness of this contriv-
ance, they are capable of being moved only a little way
on either side, and can only be brought to bear point-blank
on any object or mark. Several of the sentries came around
me as I examined the contents of these buildings, and be-
trayed some suspicion at seeing my note-book. Some of
them were rather loquacious; but their eloquence was em-
ployed in vain, as I could only comprehend one of their
questions—whether the cannon of my honorable country
were made of iron or brass. Some lofty and beautiful trees
in the fields, and a few ponds covered with the lotus-flower,
fringed the outer portion of the wall. On the inner side
some sheets of stagnant water, and a long range of public
granaries, stored with provisions against seasons of dearth,
filled up the space till we arrived at a building which had
the appearance of a city gate, but which proved to be the
se-ahvmi-kwun, or "western water-barrier." A long can-
non here guarded a windlass, which drew up or let down
(as occasion might require) the sliding-board of a large
water-course. This was opened in order to carry off the
drains and sewers of the city, but was closed in the time
of inundations; the water in the suburbs, on such occa-
sions, rising far above the level of the city. We next came
to the western gate of the city, which had a spacious colon-
nade supporting a watch-tower, and afforded a view of the
adjoining suburb. From this point, on the outer side, a
large sheet of water, called the se-woo, or "western lake,"
extended in a parallel course with the wall for several fur-
longs. A slight rising of the ground bounded it on the
farther side, where it had a temple and a few small bridges.
Some boats and fishing-nets were also disposed at intervals
over its surface. 


298 "hot-bath" and "east gates."
smiles, but soon resumed their anxious, disconcerted air.
I determined so far to humor their minds as to put out of
sight my memorandum-book, which they regarded with ev-
ident dislike. Several Tartars now passed by, scowling,
in spite of their efforts to appear unmoved, and hardly dar-
ing to look toward me. Some few, with a fierce air, would
hurry by my chair without even lifting their eyes toward
my person. I had declined the offer of an attendant from
the British consulate that I might be better enabled, with-
out the advantages of official protection, to test the practi-
cability of such an excursion by foreigners. Frequent
questions passed between the keepers and my teacher, the
latter appearing to be destitute of fear, and fully sensible
of foreign protection. A keeper ran on before to the next
gate, to report, with anxious looks, my approach, and to
prevent any ebullition of popular excitement. I could not,
therefore, be surprised at the crowd assembled at the Tang-
mun, or " Hot-Bath Gate," where the gift of a few tracts,
however, soon produced polite bowings and a courteous
reception from the officer in charge. The parts of the city
adjacent to this gate, and to the Tung-mun, or" East Gate,"
at which we next arrived, were occupied exclusively by
Tartars, many of whom were practicing archery at a tar-
get in a military exercising-ground below, and who desist-
ed from their exercise in order to gain a view of the unex-
pected visitor as I passed. A Manchoo officer sent on
three attendants to conduct me in safety to the next gate.
They could all speak the Mandarin dialect, but, when
speaking among themselves, employed the Manchoo lan-
guage, which abounded with extraordinary intonations and
inharmonious sounds. They were generally dressed in mil-
itary costume, with red caps and high boots, although most
of them united some trade with their military calling. They
had the appearance of being a haughty and arrogant race,
whom a slight provocation would excite. Nor were my
Chinese bearers of the light-spirited, garrulous class of


"HILL OF THE NINE GENII." 299
people with whom I mingled in the more northern parts.
In a silent and serious mood they trudged onward, willing
to meet every wish, but not enjoying a salient flow of
spirits. After passing some marshy ground, skirted by a
wretched class of habitations, we arrived at another of the
water-barrier gates, where the polite bowing of the few
remaining Tartars whom I passed seemed to indicate a de-
sire to efface the remembrance of the recent assault on a
foreigner; although the remembrance of the cangue prob-
ably exerted some influence in prompting these civilities. The Kew-sin shan, or "Hill of the Nine Genii," soon
after caused an ascent in the course of the city wall. A
number of buildings, projecting from little rocky eminences,
extended along its side to the summit. This hill shared,
with the opposite hill of the Woo-shi shan, the southern
side of the city. It had numerous inscriptions carved on
its rocky columns, and commanded a fine view of the river
in its course toward the sea between the towering barrier
of hills which walled in the cultivated valley on either side.
The Kwan-yin-meaou, or " Temple of the Goddess of Mer-
cy ;" the Pih-tah, or " White Pagoda," of seven stories, with
bushy shrubs issuing forth from crevices on the top and
around its sides; and the Skik-tah, or "Stone Pagoda,"
another half-dilapidated building of seven stories, with its
branching roofs rising one above another, occupied the
space between the foot of the Kew-sin shan and the Nan-
mun, or "South Gate." The mercantile portion of the
population are situated principally in the vicinity of this
gate, on account of its proximity to the populous river-sub-
urb of Nantai. Proceeding half a mile farther, I at length
arrived at the spot by which I had ascended the wall on
my outset, the whole circuit of the city having occupied
about three hours. 


PRINCIPAL STREET IN THE CITY POLICE-RUNNER. 301 in which European articles were exposed for sale, watch-
makers occupying a few of them, and making a fair display
of clocks, time-pieces, and watches of native and foreign
manufacture. In this main street, and in one of the prin-
cipal cross streets, which led, by a turning on the left,
through the viceroy's palace-yard, there were several curi-
osity shops, well supplied with old bronze vases, images,
jade-stone ornaments, and carved wood, for which the
owners generally asked exorbitant prices. As I approach-
ed the central parts of the city, the crowd, being here less
familiarized with foreign features, was more troublesome;
and once or twice the sound of fan kow, "foreign dog,"
struck my ear. Once hearing this sound proceed from a
youth close by my side, I fixed my eye on him, to intimate
that I understood the phrase; on which he shrunk back
into the crowd, sometimes summoning up a laugh and re-
peating aloud the offensive expression, which he saw I fully
appreciated. 1 made a remark to my teacher concerning
their liability to punishment by the mandarins for this rude
conduct. Unfortunately he mistook my meaning—a mis-
take more justly chargeable on my limited vocabulary of
Chinese words than on his dullness of comprehension; and
I soon had the mortification of finding myself at the en-
trance of a police court, to which he was conducting me to
lodge a complaint before the magistrate. As he was
knocking at the door, and trying to open the barred en-
trance, I fortunately discovered the mistake, so as to pre-
vent his continuing the attempt. On our coming out, the
crowd, which was rapidly increasing, raised a cheer, either
of exultation at our appearing to be baffled, or of appro-
bation of my not persisting in the complaint. I heard,
however, no more of the expression, the only epithet which
saluted my ear during the rest of the walk being fan yen,
"foreigner." After passing under an extensive public
building, which crossed the way, and exhibited aloft the
unusual spectacle of a large clock with a European dial, we
C c


302 THE MANCHOO TAKTARS.
were followed by an increasing crowd, chiefly .of boys, to
the large suite of courts and temples forming the ching-wang-
meaou. Here the voices becoming louder, and the people
somewhat more boisterous, a police-runner attached him-
self to me from one of the public offices. This new-
comer was apparently very anxious to prevent my expe-
riencing any annoyance, and did not allow the crowd of
boys and idlers who followed to approach within twenty
yards. At length the latter, being tired of following,
gradually turned back, and left their places to be sup-
plied by the idlers of the next street through which we
passed. From time to time he also offered me oranges
and betel-nut. Our course now lay through a narrow defile of lanes,
abounding with refuse and nauseous odors, toward the
eastern quarter of the city, where I determined on paying
a visit to the Manchoo Tartars. On my way the people
evinced increasing signs of curiosity; and when I entered
a shop to rest, the policeman had to station himself at the
door to prevent any pressure, returning inside at intervals
to offer me a pipe of tobacco, or to perform some similar
act of civility. At last I entered the district of the Man-
choos, where none but the dominant race are permitted to
reside; and to which, till recently, no Chinese were bold
enough even to pay a visit. Men, women, and children,
of every age and condition, turned out to see me as I passed
down their streets, with looks which betokened mingled
surprise and dissatisfaction. They generally appeared to
be of more solid frame and higher stature than the inhabit-
ants of pure Chinese descent. They all appeared exceed-
ingly anxious not to give any umbrage or ground of offense.
The elder portion of them kept waving their hands, or
using their lungs, to deter any of the younger people from
following our steps; and at one of the police-stations the
officers made them all turn back and desist from following.
As we approached the entrance of the Tartar general's


THE HOT BATHS.
303
palace-yard, my teacher and the police guide wanted to
take a sudden turn down a narrow street on the right. I
persisted, however, in leading the way through this exten-
sive range of courts into the Manchoo streets on the oppo-
site side of the palace. A Manchoo officer now joined our
little party as an additional escort, and accompanied us till
our arrival at the east gate, where we turned to the north-
ward, and pursued our way over the military exercising-
ground inside the wall. Here about fifty Manchoos fol-
lowed, who performed various little acts of attention, and
proceeded to show me the curiosities of the neighborhood.
They first took me to a hot spring, strongly impregnated
with sulphur, the water of which I just tasted, but which
they prevented my drinking, saying that their horses were
brought thither to water. They next led the way, in a
small body, to the Tang-mun, or "Hot-Bath Gate," through
which they conducted me into a little suburb, where the
Manchoo and Chinese inhabitants are mingled together.
We soon arrived at the public hot baths, where, for a fee
of two copper cash, the inhabitants possess the privilege
of an ablution in these medicinal springs; to which cause
some persons ascribe the fact of cutaneous diseases be-
ing less frequently observable among the inhabitants of
Foo-chow than of other Chinese cities. The first object
which I beheld was about twenty men in a circular bath,
of not more than six feet in diameter, all immersed up to
their chin in the steaming fluid, and packed as closely as
fagots. A shout of laughter, unusual among the serious,
gloomy people of Foo-chow, proceeded from these twenty
heads, trunkless as far as my eyes were concerned. Three
or four men were sitting on the edge, waiting till one of
the twenty came out of the bath and made room for an-
other person to join the bathers. One or two others were
anointing their bodies with liniment or plaster, having
apparently used the bath to cure their sores. A little
farther on there was another bath, with its twenty Chinese 


304 PRESENT POSITION OF THE DOMINANT RACE. similarly packed in a shallow well. A few persons were
drinking at another well under the same roof. At a few
yards' distance there was a well, partitioned off to some
distance, and guarded from bathers, where the water was
carried off in buckets, and persons were only permitted to
drink. The water was exceedingly hot, even in a cup;
but had no medicinal taste. In the mean time my new conductors grew very friendly,
and by degrees became even cheerful. They asked me my
honorable surname, and requested me to write it on the
sand. They afterward wished to know what office I filled,
and the time of my arrival at Foo-chow. The information
supplied to them by my teacher I was unable to under-
stand; but I had reason to infer, from some circumstances
which occurred on a similar occasion, that, in spite of my
explanations to the contrary, he made many exaggerations
and misstatements respecting me, and sought thereby to
augment his own importance. The Manchoos at Foo-chow
have been estimated at about 3000 in number; but, accord-
ing to their own accounts on this occasion, they had no
means of accurately ascertaining their precise numbers,
which, however, they computed as amounting, with women
and children, to about 8000. They have the character of
being a turbulent and haughty race, and sometimes occasion
much difficulty to the Chinese officers of government, from
whose jurisdiction they are generally exempt, and are sub-
ject only to officers of their own race. They still retain the
pride of conquest after the lapse of two centuries; and as
they never amalgamate with the Chinese, and are not very
numerous throughout the empire, a revolution is more than
probable when any general grievance shall arouse the
spirit of the nation, and a leader be found able and willing
to head a general revolt against their dynasty. The Tartar
yoke is said to be at times very galling and humiliating;
but the dominant race have wisely consented, from the be-
ginning, to share the government with the vanquished; and 


CONTINGENCY 01" A REVOLUTION IN CHINA. 305 the system of literary degrees theoretically opens the door
of political preferment to all persons without any distinction.
The probable nearness or remoteness of the period of Chi-
nese emancipation from Tartar rule is an enigma of diffi-
cult solution, and can form only a subject of doubtful con-
jecture to foreigners, who possess little knowledge of the
political condition of China beyond a few general impres-
sions, founded on a very imperfect induction of facts. The
emperor appears to share a large portion of loyal attach-
ment, as a good man and just ruler, and only a few of the
Chinese, who are connected with foreigners, ever dare to
breathe the treasonable language of dislike toward the ex-
isting government. Popular opinion is, however, powerful
in China; and though there are no regular channels of
manifesting its power in the absence of a representative
government, it can not safely be outraged. A grand na-
tional disaster alone appears likely seriously to endanger
the stability of the present dynasty; and if the treaty of
Nanking had not arrested the career of invading conquest,
the capture of Peking might ere now have driven back the
reigning family to their native dominions in Manchooria,
and China Proper might be just emerging from the widely-
spread disasters of a general anarchy. The viceroy and
Tartar general in Foo-chow hold equal rank, but are sel-
dom on terms of cordiality, the boundaries of their equal
and divided authority frequently operating as a cause of
misunderstanding. Returning into the heart of the city by a different route
I at length reached the vicinity of the viceroy's palace. I
called a sedan-chair from a public stand in a neighboring
street, and after another half hour found myself at the foot
of the Woo-shih shan. Here the Chinese servants attached
to the consulate, with their office as "retainers of the great
English nation" embroidered in large characters on the bo-
som of their dress, as they strutted about in the apparent
consciousness of British protection, were living proofs of


306 POPULAR DISPOSITION TOWARD FOREIGNERS. the mighty inroads that have, during the present generation,
been made on the exclusive policy of the Chinese govern-
ment. On various other occasions I visited the central and west-
ern parts of the city, occasionally sitting down in the shop
of a tradesman. The individual natives with whom I
formed an acquaintance during my stay, as well as the peo-
ple generally, whose feelings I had an opportunity of test-
ing, showed the same friendly disposition, which is prevalent
among the Chinese in other parts accessible to foreigners.
The most unfriendly part of their conduct was their unrea-
sonableness in demanding large sums of money for the most
trifling articles which I wished to purchase. One man
came down to my price with great humor, as I remon-
strated with him on his making such a difference between
his Chinese and foreign customers, and repeated the proverb,
"All the people comprised within the four seas are as
brethren." During my daily strolls on the Woo-shih shan I had con-
tinual opportunities of an insight into the various characters
and pursuits of the people, who sauntered to these parts as
the Hyde Park of Foo-chow. On one occasion I enjoyed
the hospitality of the abbot of a Taouist temple called the
Taou-shan-kwan, a venerable old man, seventy-five years
of age, with long, flowing, white beard, who, with his
brother priests, was very friendly and polite. One of them
afterward rejoined me alone; and after reading for a few mo-
ments a Christian book, as if to show the natural skepticism
of his mind, or his opinions of the unimportant character of
such subjects, he gave utterance to the latitudinarian re-
mark that all religions were in principle the same. Some
bonzes also followed me in order to procure books, which
they received with their usual protestations of gratitude.
Daily instances occurred of the real indifference of both
sects alike to their respective superstitions, and of the total
absence of any alarm at the possible diminution of their 


ROMAN CATHOLICS.
influence by the dissemination of Christian tenets in these
publications. In the same locality, and within a few minutes of time,
a Chinese Roman Catholic, who inherited from his ances-
tors a profession of Christianity, after receiving a tract,
drew forth a medal suspended from his bosom, and in-
scribed with the images of Joseph, the Virgin, and John
the Baptist. The sight of these (he said) recalled to his
mind the good things which he read in his holy books.
From other sources I gained the information that there
had been a recent persecution of the Roman Catholics in
the neighborhood, originating in their refusal to subscribe
money to the building or repair of some heathen temple.
A Spanish padre, named Justo d'Aguilar, had been residing
for a year at Foo-chow, under the terms of the recent edict
of universal religious toleration. He wore a Chinese cos-
tume, but was said to be a person of but little activity of
body or energy of mind, and to bo greatly discouraged at
the prospects of Roman Catholicism in the city. The peo-
ple were, in his opinion, so apathetic that he despaired of
making any converts among them. In the northern part
of the province of Fokeen, at the distance of a hundred
miles from Foo-chow, there is a Popish bishop, a Spaniard,
ninety years of age, who has been fifty years in the country.
There is also a Popish college; and the Romish converts
are said to be more numerous than the pagan inhabitants in
some of those districts, so that they are too powerful to be-
come the victims of persecution. In the course of an inter-
view, the British consul took occasion to remonstrate with
the acting governor of the province against the invidious
distinctions and exclusive spirit which were supposed to
pervade the second edict of Ke-Ying, apparently limiting
the first edict of toleration to the professors of the Roman
Catholic religion. In his reply, the governor deprecated
the idea of such differences being known at Peking, and
stated that the emperor, in the full spirit of extending equal


MOHAMMEDANS.
privileges to the French and English nations, would grant
free and perfect toleration to the religion generally of west-
ern nations. He also intimated, that although at Peking
the imperial government knew no difference between Ro-
man Catholics and Protestants, he himself appreciated the
distinction, and preferred the Protestants as less disposed
to political intrigues. The native authorities appeared to
be well acquainted with the movements of the Spanish
padre, but had thus far acted with liberality, promptly
checking the maltreatment of the Chinese converts, when
the real facts of the case had been duly explained to
them. Mohammedism, also, is not without its representatives
in the city, six priests being resident at Foo-chow, who
soon gain intelligence of the arrival of any Mussulmen in
the crews of foreign vessels, and visit all such new-comers
in order to sell their sacred writings. There are also be-
tween twenty and thirty Mohammedan fakirs, or religious
beggars, who subsist on the superstitions or the fears of the
people. Popular report states them to be the special favor-
ites of a Mongul Tartar, a member of the highest board of
the state, who, from Peking, would denounce punishment
on any person slighting the beggars. Whether this rumor
be true or false, there is no doubt of its being serviceable
to this class of the wretched objects, who are so numerous
in Chinese cities. Dec. 29th.—This being the period of the new moon, the
twelfth of the current Chinese year, the usual scenes of the
season gave an appearance of additional excitement to the
streets. Parties of mendicant bonzes were to be seen
marching in slow movement, and chanting some religious
song, while one or two of their number visited the neigh-
boring shops, to make a collection. They had sometimes
to wait for five minutes before the tradesman, busily occu-
pied with his customers, deigned to take any notice of the
priests, who were generally dismissed with a few copper


NEW-MOON FESTIVAL CRIMINALS.
309
cash. Close by, two men of more than ordinary irascibility
of temperament were fiercely dealing blows at each other's
person, but were held back by the surrounding crowd, so
that little harm was done by the excited pugilists. After
being with difficulty separated, they again rushed toward
each other, and leveled their aim with redoubled fury; but
being again pulled back, they had only the satisfaction of
beating the air. It was pleasing to observe the general
anxiety of the people to prevent any further collision be-
tween the contending parties, as contrasted with the dis-
graceful scenes sometimes seen in more civilized countries
on such occasions. The shopkeepers rushed out of their
houses, and for the time it appeared to be every man's
business to separate the combatants, and lead them in differ-
ent directions. The system of dividing the city into wards,
and making the respective householders of each responsible
to government for a breach of the peace in their district, is
here productive of the best effects, not only in the preven-
tion of disturbances generally, but also in securing good
treatment to any stranger who visits the city from European
vessels. The frequent bridal processions and sounds of music in-
dicated, also, a more than ordinary number of weddings at
this auspicious season. Now and then, also, a newly-pro-
moted sew-tsai might be seen making a formal visit to his
friends, in a chair, with a retinue of attendants and pipers,
and rejoicing in the consciousness of his newly-acquired
dignity. Soon after sunset the inhabitants of whole streets,
might be observed bringing forth from their houses little
heaps of paper, inscribed with Chinese writing, which they
reverently burned before the door, to prevent any possible
desecration of their written character. The smoking em-
bers might be traced in succession for some distance, as a
mark of the universality of the custom. The poor delin-
quents who bore the wooden collar as a punishment for
their offenses, and who outnumbered all that I had seen in


310
WRETCHED CLASS OF BEGGAKS.
every other part of China, seemed also at this time to enjoy
some little alleviation of their sufferings, in the kind atten-
tions of their friends. Some aged man might be observed,
whose appearance pointed him out as the parent of the
criminal, feeding, with paternal kindness, the full-grown
offender, who enjoyed, either by connivance or permission
of the police, his share in the convivial festivities of the
season. The offenses for which they suffered this slow and atten-
uating torture were, generally, theft; and the mode of
their punishment often gave rise to strange scenes. Occa-
sionally, a son of tender years might be seen performing
the office of filial piety, in removing the accumulated dirt
from the person of his father. The criminals themselves
seemed to have exerted their powers of invention in dis-
covering modes of compensating the inconvenience of the
projecting plank separating between their upper and lower
extremities, by toothpicks and earpicks, two feet in length,
which, with extended and carefully-poised arm, they en-
deavored to insert, over the wooden incumbrance, into the
appropriate place of reception. Soon after sunset, a po-
liceman arrives to unlock the chain which fastens the cangue
to the wall, and the culprit is marched for the night to the
common prison, whence, on the following day, he is again
conducted forth for exposure to public gaze. It was difficult to conceive any thing more wretched
than the squalid class of beggars, who might be seen in all
the degrees of want and misery, from a state of tattered
garb and partial nakedness to that of extreme destitution,
shriveled limbs, and pale-stricken countenance, loitering in
the streets for the casual alms of the benevolent, or lying
by the way-side in the helplessness of pining sickness. One
poor sufferer was pushing himself along in a kind of box,
with his lower extremities eaten away by disease. He
had placed one of his feet, withered and dried, on a peg in
front, in order to obtain, by this hideous spectacle, the ear-


COUNTRYWOMEN FISHING COHMORANTS. 311
nestly-sought relief of the busy wayfarers. A Manchoo
military officer, passing by in his chair, and attended by
his lictors in all the stateliness and pride of wealth, was a
strong contrast with the widely-prevalent destitution of the
beggar-population. During the latter part of my stay at Foo-chow I remain-
ed, generally, on the little island between the two bridges
in the suburb of Nantai. The principal part of this suburb
is situated on the southern bank of the river, and contains
a population of 20,000. The greater portion of these con-
sist of boatmen, sailors, and natives of Ningpo and of other
distant places, who came to the city in trading-junks. This
part abounds with fish, fruit, and vegetables, which are
every where exposed for sale. The two latter articles are
brought hither by a fine, healthy race of countrywomen,
whose hardy frames and active steps present a strong con-
trast with the limping gait and stunted growth of the fe-
male population of the city. The practice of cramping the
feet by bandages from early infancy, though not universal,
as in the more northern cities, is very general; few women
being exempted from this customary infliction of cruelty,
except the Tartar ladies, the boatwomen on the river, and
the lower classes of female inhabitants generally, who may
be seen bearing burdens, and working with the activity of
men. Many of these women perform the work of coolies,
and hurry along the streets with bare feet, or with light
shoes made of straw. They wear a hair-pin of large size,
and frequently made of silver, and are the finest and most
robust race of women to be seen in China, compensating,
in some degree, for the poor appearance of the other sex. Some of the inhabitants of Nantai have an ingenious
way of earning their livelihood, by training cormorants to
dive into the river and bring up fish from the bottom.
Generally about the time of low-water a boatman might
be seen near the arches of the bridge, with four or five
cormorants perched on a boat. At a given signal from


312
BURIAL-GROUND.
the owner, one of these birds bounded from the boat into
the stream, and, after looking about for a few moments,
dived to the bottom, becoming invisible sometimes for two
minutes, when it generally arose, at forty or fifty yards'
distance, to breathe the air. After another minute the bird
again descended into the stream, and repeated the process
till it brought a fish to the surface, struggling in its beak.
This was a signal to the boatman to paddle his little vessel
to the spot, where he cast a net into the river, and hauled
both bird and fish into the boat. The bird, conscious of
its desert, flapped its wings, and, by various odd motions,
sought the usual reward of a piece of fish, or other food,
for its success. Sometimes two cormorants were fishing
at the same time, and were often for many minutes ap-
parently lost. The fisherman, however, easily followed
them, his little boat consisting merely of half a dozen bam-
boo poles, which formed a light raft, sufficient for himself
and the birds, and was easily paddled with a single oar.
During the time in which I watched their operations they
caught three or four fish, one of which was more than the
captor could manage, and weighed down its bill below
the stream as it floated toward the raft. It is said that a
ring placed round the lower portion of the throat of these
fishing cormorants disables them from swallowing their
prey before the boatman arrives to the rescue. On Dec. 31st, 1845, I made a visit to the country bor-
dering on Nantai to the south, by a hill which rose ab-
ruptly to the height of 300 feet, and afforded a good view
of the city at three miles' distance. After passing over
some broken ground, covered at intervals with clumps of
trees, I found myself among thousands of tombs of every
size, from the small mound which covered the remains of
the beggar to the spacious, well-paved monument of the
wealthy. Some of the smaller ones were covered with a
hard kind of cement, or plaster, and resembled a mere
mound of earth, as in western countries. The larger kind 


A CASE OF PRIESTCRAFT.
813
of mausoleum, from its trefoil shape, resembled the last
letter in the Greek alphabet, the omega, and the end of all
things. A long sandy hill of undulating surface, dotted
with a few plantations of cypresses and pines, formed the
general burial-ground of the city, beyond which a plain of
considerable extent stretched over a cultivated line of coun-
try to the distant hills. In one of the temples on the hill of Nantai I witnessed
a curious specimen of the power of priestcraft, which still
retains its hold on a portion of the people. In a little
temple, consisting of two or three courts, dedicated to one
of the Taouist deities,* and intrusted to a few priests, I
met a Chinese, who had come to obtain deliverance from
domestic grief. The cause of his affliction was the sick-
ness and expected death of his wife. The husband, dress-
ed out in his finest clothes, and loaded with offerings,
stood before a platform, in anxious expectation, while a
a priest went through a variety of evolutions, tossings and
tumblings on the floor, to procure a good omen. 'With
his head bound in a red handkerchief, or turban, and a
quantity of burning paper in his hand, the priest vigor-
ously danced, with impassioned gestures, round a table
laden with cakes and fruits, while two attendants, beating
a gong and a drum, kept time with his performance. At
one time he prayed in softly-uttered tones; soon again he
employed scolding accents to the deity whom he invoked.
At one moment he would endeavor to coax away the an-
gry spirit; at another he would terrify it away by whip-
ping the air. After half an hour's frantic noise, and perse-
vering somersets on the ground, he rose and placed a hair-
pin on the head of the anxious husband, after binding the
hair into the peculiar tuft of the Taou sect. Some more * Since the preceding sheets were printed I have seen reason to doubt
the correctness of the explanation respecting a similar building at Ningpo,
contained in pages 144 and 183, and given by a friend on the spot. The
term wan-chang appears to be used as the name of a star or deity of the Taou
sect.
Dc


314
CONSOLATION FOUND IN SUPERSTITION. paper was burned outside the temple; the priest ceased
from his flagellations; the husband bowed down several
times before an idol which stood near; and, after paying
the usual fees to the priest, returned, apparently satisfied,
to the scene of his domestic affliction.





'v


CHAPTER XXIV. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF FOO-CHOW. Topography—Local Trade—Opium-Drain of Specie—Native Imports and
Exports—Monetary System—Prospects in reference to a European Trade
—Character of People—Neighboring Country—Number of Resident Grad-
uates, and general System of literary Promotion—Disposition of local
Mandarins—Prevalent Feeling toward Foreigners—Missionary Aspect. The city of Foo-chow, called, in the local dialect, Hok-
choo, is situated in 26° 7' north latitude, and in 119° 15'
east longitude. The amount of its population, in the ab-
sence of all authentic statistics, can only be a subject of
uncertain conjecture. The extent of space within the city
actually covered with buildings would lead a visitor to
estimate its size to be twice that of Ningpo, three times
that of Shanghai, and nearly five times that of Amoy. The
lowest estimate which I have heard makes it to contain a
population of more than half a million of souls. I am my-
self inclined to raise the number as high as 600,000—a
number which will not be considered excessive when it is
remembered that the walls of the city are eight miles and
a half in circuit, and that nearly the whole of the space
inclosed by them is occupied by buildings. Although it is
the capital of Fokeen province, it is, nevertheless, on the
testimony of all the high officers of the local government, a
city of little trade with the interior, and of decreasing com-
mercial importance. Nor is its commerce with the mari-
time parts of China of any considerable extent, its maritime
trade being checked by the hordes of pirates who, more or
less, for centuries have been the scourge of an unwarlike
people and the terror of a weak government. The in-
creasing diminution of its inland trade, according to the
statements of some of the most respectable native traders.


318
OPIUM-DRAIN OF SPECIE. is mainly attributable to the restraints which are imposed
on legitimate commerce and native industry by the annual
drain of Sycee bullion from the country, in payment for
opium smuggled along the coast. Two millions of dollars'
worth of the drug are said to be annually imported into the
city. The principal opium-station was formerly at Chin-
chew, 140 miles to the south of Foo-chow; but another
depot has also been recently established for the smuggling-
vessels, at the mouth of the river Min, just beyond the con-
sular limits of the port. At the present time a considerable
portion of the opium finds its way from Foo-chow to other
places in the interior. From four to eight chests are also
daily retailed in the city. One half of the population are
supposed to be addicted to the indulgence; and even the
lowest coolies and beggars often deny themselves a portion
of the substantial necessaries of life, in order to enjoy the
prized luxury. Upward of one hundred smoking-houses,
with the exterior of private houses, but having their interior
fitted up with all the conveniences and apparatus for smok-
ing, are spread over the city. The fact of their being fre-
quently situated near the residences of the mandarins, and
being generally resorted to by the police and military, can
leave no doubt of the perfect notoriety of their existence
among the local officers of government. A fear of the per-
sonal consequences of a collision with foreigners—a lurking
suspicion of the connection of the British government with
the opium system—a sense of inability to put down by force
the well-armed foreign vessels stationed at the smuggling
depots—and the harvest of bribes and secret duties which
they are able to reap from connivance—are the several
motives which probably restrain the mandarins from assum-
ing a position of decided hostility, and from enforcing the
prohibition of this contraband traffic by the severe penal-
ties of the law. These separate causes operate conjointly
in fostering and upholding an evil which, by the general
stagnation of native trade, and the constant drain of the 


NATIVE IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. 319 precious metals from the country, is fast producing a crisis,
involving alike the commercial ruin of the cities along the
seaboard, and the financial impoverishment of the empire;
and which may be a more powerful argument to those who
have it in their power to arrest the evil, the closing up,
from sheer decay, of one of the most important outlets for
the manufactures of the West. Notwithstanding these restrictions on its commercial
prosperity, Foo-chow possesses a large amount of trade
with other places in the various minor necessaries of life.
From the neighboring province of Keangse there is an im-
port of china-ware. From the more distant province of
Shanse skins and furs are supplied. Junks from Shantung,
Teensing, and other places along the coast, bring vegeta-
bles and drugs. From Ningpo cotton cloth is imported.
The tribute-bearing junks from the Loo-choo Islands, im-
port also dried fish, birds'-nests, wine, beche-le-mer, and
Japanese ingots of gold to the annual value of 10,000 dol-
lars. The country in the northwestern parts of the province
supplies the staple commodity of tea, tea-oil, rice, bamboo-
roots, fragrant wood, and ox-hides. From the southern
parts of the province, more especially from the vicinity of
Amoy and Chinchew, there is an overland transit of rattans,
pepper, long-cloths, woolens, beche-le-mer, sharks'-fins,
birds'-nests, sandal and other scented woods, ginseng, su-
gar, and quicksilver, imported from other countries into these
southern ports by their more adventurous inhabitants, and
furnishing them with a lucrative overland trade to the cap-
ital of the province. In return for these native imports,
there is an export trade from Foo-chow of bamboos, tea,
spars, oranges, paper, and tinfoil for idolatrous offerings.
The number of large junks at Foo-chow is inconsiderable,
scarcely amounting to a hundred, and these mostly from
Ningpo. The lesser junks come down the river, which is
navigable for nearly 200 miles to the northwestern extrem-
ity of the province. They are provided with an immense


320
MONETARY SYSTEM.
long oar at the stern, and sometimes, also, at the bow,
instead of a rudder, to counteract the power of the stream,
which abounds with rapids, and is, on this account, of rather
difficult navigation. The monetary system prevalent at Foo-chow indicates
an advanced state of commerce and civilization. There
are regular issues of promissory bills or notes, varying in
amount from 400 copper cash (equivalent to about sixteen
pence) to 1000 dollars, which supply all the advantages,
with as little as possible of the dangers of a bank-note cir-
culation. The blue, red, and black colors, which are blend-
ed together on these promissory bills, present a rather gay
appearance of signatures and indorsings. The name of
the issuing mercantile firm, and a number of characters
traced round the page, form the original impression from
an ink of a bright-blue color. The year, month, and day
of issue, and some ingeniously-wrought ciphers for the re-
ception of signatures and prevention of forgeries, are of a
deep red. The entry of the sum, together with the names
of the issuing partner and the receivers, stand forth in large
black characters. On the opposite side of the bill are the
indorsements of various individuals through whose hands
the bill has passed, in order to facilitate the detection of for-
geries, but not to render the indorsers further liable. The
credit of the firms is generally good, and bankruptcies sel-
dom occur. A small fee is charged at the issue, and also
at the discounting of the bills by the firm. The people
value them as much as silver; and when I paid chair-
bearers their hire they generally preferred a bill of this kind
to the payment of copper coin, on account of its lightness. There exists scarcely any foreign trade at Foo-chow.
There is only one European merchant resident in the
place; and only seven foreign vessels have as yet entered
the port, of which three were American. Nor are there
any present signs of an immediate increase in the foreign
trade. As Foo-chow itself is destitute of those manufac-


322 EMPLOYMENTS OF NATIVE POPULATION. by the native authorities, by which the people are prohib-
ited from indulging their curiosity or using offensive ex-
pressions when they meet a foreigner. The few natives
who are brought into connection with foreigners evince as
much respect as is to be commonly seen in other cities of
China. If, from want of a better acquaintance, the people
generally are at present less cordial in their demeanor,
they are also, at the same time, less prone to indulge in
familiarity and forwardness of manner than the Chinese in
other parts where foreigners are better known. There is
evidently a growing improvement in this respect; and the
popular mind, if not alienated by that reckless conduct
which too frequently marks the advancing tide of our ex-
tended commerce, will doubtless, ere long, be imbued with
feelings of positive friendliness and favor toward foreigners. The numerous sedan-chairs, with two, and sometimes
four bearers, which impede the way at every hundred
yards, are a fair proof of the existence of considerable
wealth in the city. By far the greater part, however, of
the population are immersed in the deepest poverty, earn-
ing, in compliance with the sternest conditions of human
nature, a scanty subsistence by the sweat of their brow.
The neighboring villages, which are scattered over the
plain to the encircling hills, contain an agricultural popula-
tion. The inhabitants of the villages on either bank of the
river toward the sea have the character of being addicted
to frequent acts of piracy and lawlessness. The people
who live in the city are generally employed in trade, or in
the lower work of coolies and laborers. Some of the arti-
sans are in advance of their countrymen in most other parts,
being indebted to foreign skill for the acquisition of those
arts from which they derive their livelihood. There are
several watchmakers' shops, with watches and clocks of
various degrees of excellence. The proprietors of these
shops freely acknowledged that the watches of most deli-
cate construction were imported into Canton from foreign 


324 GENERAL SYSTEM OF LITERARY PROMOTION. throughout the province, of whom 360 reside at the capital.
Again, of the degree of tsin-tze—to which only about 360
graduates are promoted at each triennial examination at
Peking from the eighteen provinces of the empire, and be-
yond which step of literary distinction promotion is so rare
that only thirty persons are raised to the highest degree of
Han-lin, at each triennial examination, from the whole of
China—there are estimated to be 200 graduates in the
province of Fokeen, sixty of whom are inhabitants of the
city. In Foo-chow there are also 5000 literary students
who have not yet obtained a degree, and who earn their
livelihood by tuition and similar pursuits, a few being em-
ployed in the subordinate situations of the public offices of
government. The sew-tsai seldom obtain promotion to po-
litical offices, unless they are supported by the influence of
private wealth. Even the keu-jin, if they are poor men,
have generally to wait for ten or twelve years before they
receive preferment. The tsin-tze invariably gain immedi-
ate promotion to an official station, as the sure reward of
their rare distinction. The successful few who rise to the
highest distinction of admission into the Han-lin, or Na-
tional College, form a body of counselors, who are consult-
ed by the emperor on grave matters of state policy, and
from whom the highest ministers of state are selected. There is a great scarcity of large and handsome temples
in the city. There is, however, one of some attractions
to visitors, situated about half way between the south and
west gates, bordering on the outer side of the city wall, and
nearly opposite to the Consulate Hill. There is also a
noted Budhist monastery called the Yung-tseuenshe, situated
about half way up the Koo-shan range, about eight miles in
a southeastern direction from Foo-chow. There are about
one hundred priests supported by the endowment, of whom
about sixty are generally resident. The disposition of the present local authorities is said to
be, on the whole, liberal and increasingly favorable to for-


DISPOSITION OF LOCAL MANDARINS. 325 eigners. The present tsung-tuh, or viceroy of the united
provinces of Fokeen and Chekeang is named Sew yun-ko,
who, although he had the reputation of being, during the
war, very fierce in his hostility to the British, and the un-
flinching advocate of the harshest measures toward the
barbarians, has now mitigated his hatred, and cultivates a
friendly intercourse with the British consul. The tseang-
keuen, or Tartar general, named King-muh, is a man of
less popular manners, having shown a considerable degree
of bigotry and pride in his intercourse with individual for-
eigners. The fan-tai, or treasurer, who at present is also
the acting governor of the province, is Sew ke-yew, formerly
chief judge of Canton, a man of liberal views and remark-
ably well versed in the geography and politics of the West.
The hai-quan, or superintendent of customs, is Ho lung-
woo, a colonel in the Tartar army, a frank and well-dis-
posed man, but possessing moderate ability, who lately held
a similar office at Amoy. Of the subordinate officers of
government, the most prominent is the Min-heen, one of
the district magistrates who held office formerly at Canton,
and has brought thence a taint of the old anti-European
feeling which sometimes manifests itself in the haughty
flippancy of his demeanor, even when mingling in the free-
dom of social intercourse with foreigners. All these local
authorities occupy official residences in the city, which are
approached by a series of open spaces, court within court.
Their houses are supplied with furniture of a poor kind,
and are sheltered only by windows of paper from the in-
clemency of the seasons. Their families generally reside
at a distance from their native districts, to avoid the incon-
venience and expense of the continual removals consequent
on translation or promotion to other official appointments.
In the festive mirth and freedom of manner which dis-
tinguish their private social intercourse, they evince great
mutual confidence, and appear to be on the best of terms
with each other. The city gates are shut soon after sunset,
Ee


326
GOVERNOR Or THE PROVINCE. and so rigid are the regulations of a garrison city, that not
even the Tartar general can be admitted into the city after
they are once closed. Of all these officers of the local gov-
ernment, the governor of the province far exceeds the rest
in the variety and extent of his information, and in the lib-
erality of his views. In the reference that has already been
made to him in the case of the equal toleration of foreign
religions, it has been seen that he is far in advance of the
generality of his countrymen. In his intercourse with the
British consul he has alluded, in conversation, to the more
prominent events of modern European history, and shown
his general acquaintance with European politics; as, for
instance, the difficulty of governing Ireland on account of
Popery, the revolt of Belgium from Holland, the separation from Britain and Spain of their colonies in North and South
America, the ambitious career of Napoleon, and the closing
victory of Waterloo. He had even heard of the excitement
in England consequent on the discussion of the Maynooth
grant. Sometimes, for hours together, he converses on
geography, and has pasted the Chinese characters over an
expensive American atlas, presented to him by one of his
subordinate officers from Canton; in addition to which, he
will soon also possess a globe, promised him by the consul.
The consul's lady, at his request, drew for him a map of
the world, colored respectively according to the divisions
into British, French, and Russian dominions, &c. Shortly
after the receipt of it, he sent a note, inquiring the reason
why Afghanistan had been omitted, and whether it had
become amalgamated with Persia, or was no longer an in-
dependent kingdom. The mandarins generally appear, in
conversation, to recognize the superior skill of foreigners.
One of them, the admiral, declined to receive a visit of cer-
emony on board his junk from some British officers, assign-
ing as his reason the great inferiority of his own vessel to a
British ship-of-war. On the whole, when we remember the
impediments encountered at the first opening of the port, 


RECAPITULATION.
329
will throw interruptions in the way of Protestant missiona-
ries. And, lastly, its strongest claims rest on the fact that
while nearly every system of superstition has here its living
representatives, Protestant Christianity is alone unrepre-
sented in this vast city; and, while every point along the
coast accessible to foreigners has been occupied by mis-
sionary laborers, the populous capital of Fokeen is as yet
destitute of a single evangelist of the unadulterated faith
of the Gospel. Here, then, a sphere of usefulness lies open, where
no institution of caste operates to divide man from man;
where no priesthood wields a general influence over the
fears or respect of the people; where no strength of reli-
gious bigotry threatens to oppose our progress; but where
the principal obstacles with which we shall have to con-
tend are those national traits of spiritual apathy and sensu-
ality which every where, alas! are deeply rooted in the
fallen nature of man, and form the chief barrier to his re-
ception of pure and vital Christianity. The view of this great heathen city, with its population
absorbed in earthly pursuits, devoid of every care about a
future life, and destitute of the means of Christian instruc-
tion, was a spectacle which could not but excite a train of
melancholy reflections in the author's mind. He cherishes,
however, the hope that his visit may be instrumental in
exciting other laborers to enter on this missionary field.
When the primary stations of Shanghai and Ningpo shall
have been occupied by an adequate missionary force Foo-
chow will probably be the next station entered upon by
the Church Missionary Society.


CHAPTER XXV. DEPARTURE TO AMOY. Voyage to Amoy—Description of the Harbor—Capture of Amoy, and Occupation of Koo-lang-soo by the British—Circumstances attending the
first Arrival of Protestant Missionaries at Amoy.—The Island of Koo-
lang-soo—Sufferings of the People from War and Pestilence—Idolatrous
Rites for averting their Calamity—European Graves—The Missionaries'
Burial-Place. On Jan. 7th, 1846, I engaged a crew of Chinese to con-
vey me from Foo-chow in their boat to a vessel a few miles
down the river, in which I was to embark for Amoy. The
weather still continued to be very cold, the thermometer
standing at about 45 degrees. Having the tide in our fa-
vor, we arrived in two hours off Pagoda Island. Here, as
we doubled the point, a strong head-wind meeting the tide
rendered our course rather dangerous, and our boat was
nearly swamped. The Chinese, though the worst sailors,
are the best boatmen in the world. The experience, on
former occasions, of their extraordinary cleverness in man-
aging a boat imparted to my mind a feeling of confidence,
which I could seldom, on a similar emergency, have placed
in the skill of foreigners. A man at the head of the boat
watched every wave as it approached, and raised a shout,
so as to give the stroke altogether at the proper moment
for avoiding the threatening mass of water. About noon I
embarked on board the " Wolverine" brig-of-war, in which,
through the kindness of the captain in command, I obtain-
ed a passage to Amoy. We did not weigh anchor till the
following morning, when we sailed slowly down the river
with the ebb-tide, another brig-of-war, and also a war-
steamer, with the British admiral on board, keeping us
company a few miles astern. Near the entrance of the


DEdCKirTION OF THE HARBOR. 331 narrow channel called the Kin-pai-mun, where the Min ex-
pands into the broad harbor formed by the mouth of the
river and two or three adjoining islets, a sudden jerk and
rolling of the vessel warned us of our having run aground,
and the anchor was immediately let go. It was soon dis-
covered that the vessel was suspended mid-ships on a rock,
of which the charts gave no mention, in the middle of the
channel. With eight or nine fathoms of water at our bow
and stern we remained here for two hours, the admiral,
in the mean time, passing in the steamer between us and
the southern shore. Just as the admiral had made a signal
to the other brig to " stand by vessel in distress," and three
man-of-war's boats were rowing alongside to haul us off,
the rising tide floated us aright, and we were soon again
on our course. The next signal from the admiral's ship,
"Proceed to Amoy," relieved us from the suspense in
which the possibility of our accompanying him across to
the island of Formosa had kept our minds. Soon after we
came to anchor, among a fleet of junks and opium-vessels,
till the next morning, when we crossed the bar, and pro-
ceeded before a fresh breeze, nine knots an hour, toward
Amoy. At daybreak, on Jan. 10th, we arrived among the
islands which, at the distance of about eight miles from the
city of Amoy, stretch across the mouth of an extensive
bay, formed by two projecting headlands on the coast.
The harbor inclosed within extends for several miles,
being open to the sea on the southeast, and having on the
south the lofty hill of Lam-tai-boo, situated on the main-
land, and surmounted by a conspicuous pagoda. On the
southwest lies an island, with another conspicuous pagoda,
at the entrance of the river leading to the city of Chang-
chew, the capital of the department of that name. On the
east, at a greater distance, lies the island of Quemoy. The
island of Amoy itself fills up the north and northwest of
this circular range of hills, which rival each other in the
bold grandeur of their towering cliffs and the wild sterility


832
EVENTS OF THE BRITISH WAR. of their scenery. Sailing along the southern shore of the
island, which is here lined with an extensive range of bat-
teries close to the water-edge, we at length came to anchor
in the lesser harbor, between the city and the opposite
island of Koo-lang-soo, which lies about half a mile distant
from Amoy. After another hour I found myself domiciled
among the missionaries, experiencing that hearty welcome
and hospitality which I never failed to receive, both from
British and American missionaries, during my visit to the
consular ports of China. A brief relation of the part which Amoy bore in the
events of the British war with China, and of the circum-
stances attending the arrival of the first Protestant mission-
aries, will be appropriate and necessary to enable the reader
to form a right estimate of the present position of the mis-
sion. A more general description of Amoy will be reserved
till a later period of the narrative, and will also be gathered
from the journal of daily occurrences. In the summer of 1840, on the sailing of the British ex-
pedition northward to Cbusan, Amoy had been exempted
from the desolating terror of British arms. In a later period
of the same summer, the "Blonde" frigate was dispatched
to Amoy, to deliver to the local authorities a copy of a
letter addressed by the foreign secretary of state, Lord
Palmerston, to the principal officers and advisers of the
Chinese emperor. The same letter had been sent also to
other places in the north of China, where the native author-
ities, after transcribing the contents, had politely returned
it to the messenger, with the haughty intimation that nei-
ther the subject nor the style was suited to the dignity of
the imperial glance. At Amoy not even this semblance
of civility was shown; and the mandarins refused to receive
the letter, or even to hold any communication with the
frigate. The interpreter, who was deputed by the com-
manding officer to go ashore and explain the objects of hia
visit, was also fired upon in the boat. This drew down a


334
OCCUPATION OF KOO-LANG-SOO. Three vessels of war and a military force were left to gar-
rison the island of Koo-lang-soo, and to overawe the city
of Amoy, from which the troops were immediately re-
moved, Koo-lang-soo henceforth becoming the head-quarters
and residence for the British. From this time the island
remained in the quiet occupation of the British, and Amoy
itself was unaffected by the subsequent events of the cam-
paign in the north. In August, 1842 (one year after its
capture), Koo-lang-soo was temporarily ceded, with Chusan,
to the British, by the terms of the treaty of Nanking, till the
payment of the stipulated indemnity money. In the begin-
ning of 1845 it was voluntarily ceded by the British to the
Chinese, about twelve months before the stipulated time
of cession; and the few British residents who remained
passed over to Amoy, where they experienced no difficulty
in procuring suitable houses among a friendly and respect-
ful people. The first Protestant missionaries to Amoy had arrived at
Koo-lang-soo in the beginning of 1842, which, it is neces-
sary to bear in mind, was a few months previous to the
"treaty of perpetual peace and friendship." Two Ameri-
can clergymen, Rev. D. Abeel (now, it is to be feared, lin-
gering in the last extremity of pulmonary disease in his
native land) and the Rev. W. J. Boone (now bishop of the
American Episcopal Church at Shanghai), commenced
their missionary work, by preaching, on the first Sabbath
after their arrival, in the Fokeen dialect of the district,
which they had exclusively studied at Singapore and in
Java among the numerous emigrants from this part of
China. Being unconnected with the British, they occa-
sionally ventured across from Koo-lang-soo to Amoy; and
although, in the excited state of the popular mind, the ex-
periment was by no means safe, their knowledge of the
dialect enabled them to remonstrate with the people on
the very first appearance of danger, and to disarm the first
symptoms of hostility. After being for a time deemed neu-


DESCRIPTION OF KOO-LANG-SOU.
335
tral, they soon were regarded even as friends; and the fre-
quent cases of maltreatment which they were able, as gra-
tuitous interpreters to the British commandant, to avert or
remedy by their influence, soon caused the missionaries, as
a body, to be viewed as peaceable, upright, and good men.
Frequent cases occurred, also, in which, as interpreters,
they were able to mediate between the British and the na-
tive authorities, which secured for them, among the latter,
feelings of respect, in some cases, perhaps, associated with
the character of the American nation, rather than of the
Christian religion. It is, however, due to those excellent
men, to state, that there appear to be no grounds for sus-
pecting them of a desire to encourage this confusion of
ideas, or to sink, in the slightest degree, their distinctive
character as missionaries of the cross into that of mere par-
tisans or patriots. Their numbers were strengthened by
gradual additions, both of British and American missiona-
ries. After recent losses by death or removal, they now
amounted to six in number, four of whom were Americans,
and two British. At the cession of Koo-lang-soo, they mi-
grated with the mercantile residents and the British consul-
ate to Amoy, where they now resided on the edge of the
water, opposite to Koo-lang-soo, having two chapels situa-
ted in streets about a quarter of a mile distant, in which
divine service and preaching were regularly held. During the first week after my arrival at Amoy, I paid
frequent visits, with some of the missionaries, to the oppo-
site island of Koo-lang-soo. After a few minutes' sailing
in a boat, we landed on a long causeway of large granite
slabs roughly hewn, and very slippery from the multitude
of little shell-fish left on them at high-water. The island
itself is about a mile in length, and the same in width at its
broadest part. Partaking of the same general ruggedness
of aspect, which is the almost unvarying feature of the
whole coast of China, from the mountainous shores of Shan-
tung to the rocky cliffs of Hainan, it possesses a romantic 


336 DESTRUCTION OF BRITISH REMINISCENCES. beauty of scenery peculiarly its own, in the glens and de-
files which, in alternate succession, conduct the visitor
among the overhanging masses of rock of every imaginable
form and appearance. In some parts, little groves of
banian-trees encircle a few houses; and the signs of culti-
vation are to be seen in the crops of wheat and rice which
line the beach on its level parts. There are only two vil-
lages on the island, which are prettily situated on the sea-
side. Of these, one lies on the shore opposite to Amoy;
the other occupies the northern and more picturesque ex-
tremity of the island. A series of gardens, with their rich
foliage, rise gracefully up the slope of a little hill, till they meet the same odd jumble of chasms and boulder-stones,
piled aloft or loosely scattered around; huge masses of
rock forming peaks on high, and seeming to vibrate in the
air, and to quiver in their nicely-balanced position. From
the eminence at the extreme southern point a fine view is
obtained of the outer harbor, and of the Six Islands, with
the sea beyond. On this point of land a British flag-staff
and battery formerly stood, commanding the approach to
Amoy. In the center of the island the ground generally
rises by a gentle acclivity, except in a few parts where the
granite peaks suddenly rear their towering heads. The
island of Koo-lang-soo commands the city on the opposite
side, and was well selected as the quarters of the British
garrison, who formed too small a force to be left in occupa-
tion of the populous city itself. On the evacuation of the
British, every building, and every object which served to
remind them of British occupation, were destroyed or re-
moved. The barracks, the forts, the flag-staffs, and even
the framework of the windows and verandahs, were all
speedily demolished, and the materials converted into fire-
wood. The work of destruction continued till no remnants of the foreigners remained, and the houses were re-
stored to their primitive condition. The work of purgation
was vigorously persisted in. The roads were dug up, and


SUPERSTITIOUS BITES FOR AVEBTWO CALAMITY. 337 the fields had again begun to assume the appearance of
cultivation. The power of superstition and the aid of
heathen priests were duly invoked. Scarcely a day passed
without processions of idols, which were to be seen passing
in boats through the harbor among the fleet of junks, each
of which, with loudly-sounding gongs, saluted the deity as
it passed under the vessel toward the island on the oppo-
site side. The fearful mortality, which carried off so many
of the British, and which was unknown previous to their
occupation of the island, had continued to prevail to an
alarming extent during the previous summer, notwith-
standing the gradual resumption of tillage. In one family,
known to the missionaries, and occupying one house, out
of nine persons, seven had fallen victims to the prevailing
fever. Even those who tilled the ground generally return-
ed after the day's labor to the less insalubrious residence
of Amoy to spend the night. The fears of the ignorant
imputed the common calamity to the evil spirits of the En-
glish, who had been buried on the island. The supersti-
tions of the people magnified every little event; and the
villagers were to be heard expatiating on the mysterious
scenes which they had witnessed, of the ghosts of barbari-
ans running up and down the hills at night, and "talking
English most fearfully." On the first occasion of my visit,
a large platform was erected in the northern village. Close
by was a temporary building, destined to be succeeded, at
some future period, by a more substantial edifice. In this
the idols had been duly installed, and the tutelary deities
were invited back to resume their rule. Some priests
of the Taou sect stood by to reconsecrate the spot, with
attendants bearing cakes, fruits, and sweetmeats; while
others beat drums and gongs, or played some sacred air
on a wind-instrument resembling the bagpipe. A mourn-
ful chant was commenced, and they moved forward in slow
and solemn procession to mount the platform, where the
offering .of gilt paper and the burning of incense were pro-
Ff
r


338
EUROPEAN BURIAL-GROUND.
longed amid the anxious interest of the village crowd.
Subscriptions of money had been levied on the inhabitants
of Koo-lang-soo and Amoy, and the afflicted people en-
deavored to encourage themselves in the hope that their
calamities of war and pestilence were now in course of
termination. Some European graves on the eastern beach proved the
former existence of a foreign trade at Amoy. Two grave-
stones, with English inscriptions, bore the respective dates
of 1698 and 1700. There was also a grave-stone erected
to the memory of a Spaniard. In another part were buried
the remains of a former Roman Catholic bishop. There
are also independent grounds for believing that a consider-
able trade and intercourse existed in former times between
the Dutch in Formosa and the Chinese at Amoy. Indelible monuments of the recent foreign occupation re-
mained in the crowded British cemetery, in which lay the
unfortunate sufferers who fell victims to the insalubrity of
the spot. This cemetery was situated at the eastern side
of the island, near the landing-place, and had many elegant
grave-stones, erected by the sympathy of surviving com-
rades. Near the northern village, screened from view by
a little assemblage of trees, was situated the burial-ground
of the missionaries. The unhealthiness of the climate had
been severely felt by this class of the Lord's laborers, who
followed in the train of earthly conquerors, to extend the
bloodless conquests of their divine Savior. During the last
thirteen months, out of twenty-five members of the mission-
ary families, eighteen had been removed by various provi-
dential events. Three missionaries had permanently left,
either from the failure of their own health, or of that of
their families. Two wives of missionaries had set out for
their native land, on account of ill health, one of whom died
on the voyage; while two others had been suddenly sum-
moned from the scenes of their missionary work to higher
employment in a better world. Two children had died,


THE MISSIONARY'S GRAVE.
339
and nine others had been sent to Europe or America. Six
missionaries now remained, one of whom was married; so
that there were in all seven laborers on the field. In this
little retired spot of ground were interred the bodies of
three female missionaries, Mrs. Boone, Mrs. Dotey, and
Mrs. Pohlman, with the two children of the last. They left
America in the vigor of youth, to consecrate their lives to
the missionary work; but were cut down, one after anoth-
er, by premature death, leaving their earthly partners to
sorrow not as those who have no hope. Appropriate texts
and inscriptions on the grave-stones told the confidence of
the departed in that Savior in whom they had trusted, and
their devotion, even in the cold embrace of death, to that
work in which they had humbly sought to spend and be
spent. Among all the achievements which the annals of
fame or the affection of the living delight to tell of the de-
parted dead, where is the man, who has tasted the good
word of God and the powers of the world to come, who will
not concede that the most substantial glory is that which
silently adorns the missionary's grave 1


CHAPTER XXVI. DAILY OCCURRENCES AT AMOY. Interview with the "Hai-hong"—Large Collection of Ancestral Tablets-
Idol Shops—Friendliness of People—Missionary Services—Regular At-
tendants—Service for Chinese Females. Jan. 16iA.—The friendly intercourse held by the mission-
aries with the Chinese authorities at Amoy encouraged me
to pay a visit to the hai-hong, the principal officer in muni-
cipal matters, whose jurisdiction, similar to that of a lord
mayor, extended over the city and island of Amoy. His
predecessor, whom he succeeded a few months ago, was a
man of very liberal views, and sometimes visited the mis-
sionaries without any ceremony or state, on which occasions
he used to take their children on his knee, and play with
them in the most friendly manner. The present hai-hong
possessed a large measure of his predecessor's liberal views
and popular manners, and was at all times accessible. We
walked over some rugged, rising ground near the beach,
covered with tombs, the masonry of which was in some
cases dilapidated through age, so as to expose the decayed
coffins to view. We soon arrived at the suburban hamlet
of Ha-mun-ka, in which the hai-hong's residence is situated.
A couple of long open courts and some flights of steps con-
ducted us at length to the reception-rooms and large open
halls at the end of a raised area. The hai-hong had just
gone to transact some official business with the other man-
darins at the te-tok's palace within the city, and, according
to annual custom, to seal up the public books and docu-
ments, for the purpose of terminating all business during
the period of the new-year holydays, which lasted from this,
the 19th day of the twelfth moon, to the 20th day of the
first moon. Two of his secretaries received us, and con


343 HIS LIBERALITY TOWARD MISSIONARIES. especially asked where India (Yintoo) was situated. He
then inquired how long I had been in China, what amount
of time I had devoted to Chinese studies, and what parts
of the coast I had visited? He then asked to which of the
five ports I gave the preference, and whether I liked Fo-
keen province as well as Che-keang t In the course of my
reply I took an opportunity of acquainting him that my
friends were Americans, and I myself was an Englishman;
but that the doctrines which we professed in common made
all nations brethren and friends. This led to renewed pro-
fessions of admiration of our religion, and the statement of
his wish to be included among the number of our friends.
He expressed his hope that, if we wanted any favor, we
would not hesitate to convey our wishes to him; and inti-
mated to us that he, also, on his part, should place similar
confidence in our willingness to confer acts of kindness on
himself. This sounded rather strange to me at the time,
but received explanation from the fact, of which I was
afterward informed, that the Chinese authorities sometimes
send a private messenger to the missionaries for information
on various matters affecting their intercourse with foreign-
ers. An instance of this kind lately occurred on the visit
of the French embassador to a city forty miles in the inte-
rior, by which the jealous surmises of the mandarins were
excited. Their suspicions were removed by the informa-
tion of the missionaries, who, in reply to the official mes-
senger, stated their opinion that the French were uninflu-
enced by any sinister designs, and actuated by no other
motive than curiosity. The presence of a body of men,
whose knowledge of the language enables them to hold free
communication with the Chinese, and whose objects form
to the mandarins a guaranty for their integrity, can not be
regarded otherwise than as an advantage even to the secu-
lar interests of Europeans. After making some inquiries from the two missionaries
respecting a barometer and a telescope, which he had com-


A COLLECTION OF ANCESTRAL TABLETS. 343 missioned them to purchase for him, and expressing some
strange notions on the subject of land-mists and sea-mists,
he exchanged a few words, in a low tone of voice, with an
attendant. The latter, watching his opportunity, whisper-
ed into the ear of one of our party that the hai-hong had a
number of persons outside waiting for him to transact some
important business. This hint induced us to hasten our
departure, amid the greetings of the hai-hong, who accom-
panied us to the outer court. Here we found about a
hundred officers, police-runners, and lictors, regularly drawn
up in files, awaiting his exit. As we passed out of the
courts into the neighboring street, our ears were greeted
with the sounds of pipes and drums, which form the usual
salute to visitors at the houses of the great. We proceeded thence along the broad causeway, by
which the victorious British troops advanced toward the
citadel on the capture of Amoy. It had some old triumphal
arches and gates, with some temples on either side of the
road. We entered into one of these temples, which had
no idols, but was completely filled with rows of ancestral
tablets, altogether amounting to about three thousand in
number. It had been recently erected by the public sub-
scriptions of the officers and people, and was intended to
commemorate the unfortunate multitudes who had been
swept away by a fearful inundation in the neighborhood.
This disastrous occurrence took place in the year 1842,
when whole villages were swept away from the vale of
Chang-chew on the opposite mainland. Hundreds of bod-
ies were washed down the river, and carried out into the
sea by the current. Numbers were also borne alongside
the British vessels of war then lying on the other side
of Koo-lang-soo. This building was erected to receive the
ancestral tablets of those families which had perished in the
common disaster. Many of the tablets had been carried
away, together with the temples which contained them, by
the all-destroying force of the waters. Such of the tablets


344
IDOL SHOPS.
as had been recovered from the general destruction were
carefully placed together in this temple, erected for the
purpose. In the inscription above the entrance we behold
as positive a proof as could be required of the direct wor-
ship paid to departed spirits, and the real demonolatry of the
Chinese— Yew kew peih ying, "Those who pray will of ne-
cessity obtain a response," tantamount to the words of
Scripture, Ask and ye shall receive. Each tablet was in-
scribed with the number of generations through which the
family was traced—some thirteen, some fourteen, and oth-
ers seventeen. Although a Chinese regards with supersti-
tious, and even idolatrous veneration, the ancestral tablets
of his own family, he does not extend the same feelings of
reverential awe to those of other families. It is not uncom-
mon for them to place the tablets of obsolete or extinct
families in some little spot, with an idol presiding as a pro-
tector. They will, however, suffer them to be removed,
and sometimes even encourage their removal by any one
whose curiosity may prompt to the act, and who will not
wantonly injure them. A Chinese of my acquaintance
readily volunteered to procure me a couple of tablets from
this temple. He seemed to consider them as common prop-
erty, and their removal to involve no act of desecration or
dishonesty, as the original owners had no longer any repre-
sentatives. In one of the narrow streets we entered an idol shop,
where idols of every pattern and quality were procurable,
the prices varying from several dollars each to the low sum
of six cash, equal to about one farthing. The licensed
permission of the mandarins to pursue the vocation of idol-
making was visibly depicted on a sign-board in the shop.
On another board was a notice that precious Budhas were
there manufactured or repaired. A large number of idols,
of every shape and in every stage of manufacture, were
lying around. Another idol-manufactory had the sign sus-
pended over the door," The Golden Budha Shop." These 


FRIENDLINESS OF THE PEOPLE. 345
shops were to be seen at every quarter of a mile, and pre-
sented groups of images, some black with age and sent
hither for regilding, and others gaudily painted and fresh
from the hand of the artist. Some had stern visages;
some wore the expression of pleasure; and all looked ex-
ceedingly grotesque. The people outside would readily
enter into the subject, and laugh heartily as the missionary
pointed out to them the unreasonable character of worship
paid to such divinities. The people every where showed the same polite atten-
tions and friendly disposition; and, although the missiona-
ries spoke boldly their sentiments on idolatry, they did not
appear to excite any ill-will. Mistakes at the commence-
ment of the mission were sometimes made by the people,
as to the objects and motives of missionaries. A Chinese
came, soon after their first arrival, and proposed to one of
them to effect an expulsion of the present Tartar dynasty,
which he demonstrated to be perfectly easy, if they would
only bring 4000 men to Amoy, to assist in carrying out his
plan! As we passed along the street, in the immediate
vicinity of the residences of the missionaries, the frequent
salutation greeted our ears, " Have you eaten rice to-day?"
—" Have you eaten to the full V A special degree of in-
terest seemed to be produced on their minds by the arrival
of a new teacher; and whenever I walked alone through
these streets they endeavored, in their simple manner, to
make me welcome by many acts of politeness and good-
humored remarks, the meaning of which I could better un-
derstand by their looks than by their language. The rope-
makers, who thronged some of the streets, generally called
out to me as I endeavored to pass under the lines across
the street, and stopped their work that I might be enabled
to cross over without having to stoop. Jan. 18th (Sunday).—A description of the missionary
services of this day will give an idea of the usual course of
Sabbath duties at Amoy. At 9 a.m. a Chinese service was


346
MISSIONARY CHAPELS. held at each of the two missionary chapels, one of which
belonged to the American Board of Foreign Missions, and
the other to the London Missionary Society. They were
commodiously situated among the population, having been
rented at a moderate annual sum, and converted, at a
small expense, from trading hongs, or warehouses, into
chapels capable of holding one hundred and fifty persons,
with movable benches for seats. At 10 a.m. a missionary
service was held among the Chinese at the hospital by the
medical missionary who presided over the institution. At
11 a.m. an English service was held at the house of one of
the missionaries, at which two or three other Europeans
sometimes were present. At 3 p.m. another Chinese ser-
vice was held at the two chapels. Besides these services
on Sundays, the missionaries generally visited one of the
chapels every afternoon, for the purpose of conversing with
those whom curiosity might induce to enter. These after-
noon visits were intermitted on those days on which they
had a Chinese Bible class at their own houses for their
teachers, domestics, and constant hearers. On one after-
noon in the week there was also a special meeting for
women, at the house of the only married missionary, whose
wife survived and was able to remain at Amoy. She fre-
quently received visits from her female neighbors, and had
continual access to their houses; by which friendly inter-
course many prejudices were removed, and their confi-
dence was gained. At the first public service which I attended the mission-
ary who officiated addressed about fifty Chinese, drawing
his comparisons and illustrations from the customs of tho
approaching new year. He remarked on the scrupulous
care with which they settled their accounts, prepared their
garments, and made other arrangements for a suitable ob-
servance of the holyday. He drew an argument from this
their excessive care in unimportant concerns to the great-
ness of their moral responsibility in the higher matter of 


INTERRUPTION BY A CHINESE.
347
preparing to meet their God, and using every effort to se-
cure the salvation of their immortal souls. The regular
attendants were very attentive, and listened in silence. The
new-comers were much less reverent, and sometimes inter-
rupted the preacher with remarks or questions. One elder-
ly gentleman, attired in a silk gown, entered the room,
bowing and nodding to the preacher and the other persons
present whom he happened to recognize as he was con-
ducted by a Chinese, who acted as a sexton, to a bench near
the place where I was sitting. The old man frequently
gave vent to a half-suppressed laugh as the missionary laid
open to view the interior scenes and detailed preparations
of Chinese families in the prospect of the approaching fes-
tival. Again the old man's countenance became grave,
and his looks bespoke deep attention, till some pointed re-
mark or happy allusion again drew forth a stifled laugh or
an audibly expressed commendation. After the sermon
a middle-aged Chinese, of rather shabby exterior, went
round and tried to sound our breasts, for the purpose of
listening whether our hearts were good or wicked. He
made many comments after each experiment, in a way
which left doubt whether to regard him as a person of
weak mind or eccentric wit. On a previous occasion he
once interrupted the preacher for several minutes, in the
midst of his sermon, standing up and making a lengthened
harangue to those present, in order to prove to them that
all this attention and concern respecting the future was
unnecessary, and that the best way to happiness was to
banish all care and thought about such matters from the
mind. At the hospital all the Chinese kneeled down dur-
ing the prayer. In the chapels, where the congregations
consisted of a mixed class of hearers, those only who had
been regular in their attendance were observed to kneel.
About twenty-five Chinese in all had been for some time
under instruction, and came nearly every day to the mis-
sionaries. Two of these were old men, who had been foul


350 SERVICE FOR CHINESE FEMALES. to the one true God. Notwithstanding the frequent cen-
sures of the missionaries on this part of his conduct, he still
availed himself of every opportunity of attending the services,
and might be seen every day at one of the chapels, with his
Chinese Testament and hymn-book. He sometimes express-
ed a desire to be baptized, and appeared to be sincerely con-
vinced of the superiority of the Christian religion; but his
self-righteous views, and love of the material worship of in-
cense, pointed him out as on the broad road to Popery, when-
ever he might be brought into contact with a ritual form of
worship so studiously addressed to the senses and the im-
agination. The largest attendance which I witnessed at
either of the chapels was about one hundred. At the religious meetings for women, men were not gen-
erally admitted: on one or two occasions, however, I was
present. A missionary and his wife, with one Chinese
teacher and about twenty women, formed our little assem-
bly. The teacher addressed them with much animation,
and the missionary concluded with a suitable prayer, dur-
ing which all knelt. At the close, the women made re-
marks on the doctrines being good; and after some further
conversation, and taking tea together, departed to their
homes. 


352 SANCTITY OP THE CHINESE WRITTEN CHARACTER.
intimated to the reader that "every fragrant action would
have its remembrance." These, on inquiry, proved to be
little chests, voluntarily provided by the more superstitious
of the shopkeepers, to become the depository of pieces of
paper inscribed with writing, in order that no one might
violate the sanctity of the Chinese written character by
tossing away these precious fragments to be trodden under
foot. At the new-moon festival these scraps of paper are
consumed according to custom, to prevent any imaginary
desecration. In all directions, also, were to be seen a number of moral
tracts, which, at this period of the year, were conspicuous-
ly displayed on the walls in places of public resort, and
contained the well-intended exhortations to virtue, addressed
by some native scholar to his less instructed countrymen.
One of these was the production of a sew-tsai graduate of
Chang-chew, who, after sundry magniloquent remarks of a
prefatory kind, exhorted his readers to regain their primi-
tive rectitude and virtue. About the middle of the sheet a
succession of diagrams or figures represented the heart of
man in the several stages of its downward career to vice.
The heart was first white, without blemish or spot, and a
quotation was subjoined from the ancient classics, to show
that "man's disposition was originally good." The next
figure represented the heart, with a small patch of black, to
denote incipient deterioration, the effect of neglected edu-
cation. The third, fourth, and fifth figures, with the grad-
ually increasing amount of black, denoted the gradual but
certain progress of moral depravity; till the sixth, with its
rudely-shapen heart, entirely filled up with black, showed
the consummation of wickedness, and the complete ascend-
ency of evil principles. The remaining six figures, with
the brief moral sentences appended below, proceeded to
illustrate the gradual restoration of the human heart, from
the lowest depths of depravity to the pure, unsullied white
of original virtue, by obedience to the maxims of the sages


SENTENCES OVER THE ENTRANCE OF HOUSES. 353 and the practice of good. Another part of the sheet de-
scribed the same progress to evil and restoration to virtue,
by means of hearts placed in different degrees of obliquity.
Copies of this moral tract had been liberally circulated at
Chang-chew by the original composer. The wooden block
from which it had been printed was sent to Amoy, where
any one, who had sufficient benevolence or interest in the
public morals, was permitted to strike off a number of im-
pressions for distribution. The name and seal of the indi-
vidual who had the public spirit to incur the expense of the
paper, ink, and printing of this new edition, were duly bla-
zoned forth in red color on the lower part of the sheet, as
the reward of his good deeds. Another custom, universally prevalent at this season, and
characteristic of the nation, deserves special notice. The
entrance to every Chinese dwelling had visibly depicted
on the door and door-posts* as well as on the cross-beam
above, two or more pair of antithetical sentences, chosen
with great care from their approved writings, and generally
combining a number of lucky expressions, as well as a
neatly-contrived antithesis of ideas and cognate tones. The
selection of these sentences requires an amount of classical
knowledge and critical acumen such as is only possessed
by literary persons. All the teachers of the missionaries
petitioned for a short vacation, to enable them to turn to
their own pecuniary gain their respective talents in select-
ing and writing these antithetical sentences. The poor
scholars might be seen in all directions standing at a table
in some street, or at the entrance of some temple, and sell-
ing their writings for a few copper cash, the new year
being the annual period for removing the old sentences and
substituting new ones in their place. The paper on which
they were written was of various colors, the general color,
however, being of a deep red. White paper denoted that
the inmates had lost a parent during the past year. The * See Deuteronomy, vi., 9.
o o*


354 BUSY ADJUSTMENT OF PECUNIARY MATTERS. second year's mourning required blue for a father, yellow
for a mother, and carnation-color for grandparents. A
light-red indicated the third year of mourning; after which
they reverted to the usual color of a dark-red. Numerous proclamations, also, from the municipal au-
thorities, appeared at this time on the walls adjoining the
gates of the citadel, on various subjects of public exhorta-
tion. One of these public notices contained a warning from
the district-magistrates, prohibiting constables and other
subordinate officials from apprehending individuals on the
sanction of old warrants, and thus seeking to take a bribe
for their liberation. Jan. 26th.—This being the last day of the Chinese year,
busy preparations were in progress for terminating busi-
ness, for laying in a stock of provisions, and for celebrat-
ing the superstitious observances of the evening. In all
directions companies of cooly-bearers might be seen car-
rying large packages of new-year presents to the friends of
their master. In the various houses which we visited after
sunset, the head of the establishment, attended by his sons
or his partners, was to be observed balancing his mercantile
accounts, and settling the debts of the year. So punctilious
are the Chinese in the observance of this commendable
practice, that they say they could not enjoy the festive oc-
casion, nor sleep during the night, unless they had pre-
viously relieved their mind of this burden. The swan-
pwan, or counting-board was in constant use; and when
the business seemed well-nigh terminated, and the books
were about to be closed, a neighbor would hurry into
the shop, and pecuniary transactions would again for a
season be renewed. While these important matters were
in progress, the family were engaged in burning gilt paper,
with the occasional discharge of fireworks, and in making
preparations for the peculiar annual custom named hicui-loo,
or "surrounding the furnace." This is performed by the
members of each family sitting down to a substantial supper





POSITION OF WIVES.
357
with a pan of charcoal placed under the table in the center
of the party. The only explanation which they gave me
of this odd custom was, that fire is the most potent of the
elements; and hence, probably, they derived a notion of its
efficacy in averting evil, or in strengthening the bonds
of family union. The women observed this custom in an
inner room by themselves; while the master of the house,
with his sons and his hired assistants, sat down in an
outer room. In one of the families, in which we were
invited to remain in order to view the detailed observ-
ances of the occasion, the proprietor, a man apparently
of some little wealth, sat down with his assistants, his
younger son, and two little grandsons. The eldest son,
a youth of about nineteen, sat near us, attending to
our wants, but without partaking of the feast himself.
Every minute he was on his legs, attending to the beckon-
ing motions of his father, on whom he waited without the
least appearance of its being esteemed unusual. At one
time he brought a spoon, or a pair of chop-sticks; at an-
other time he fetched a paper napkin for his father's use, or
refilled his glass with samshoo. The old gentleman, after
a short time became silent and drowsy. But the rest of
the party meanwhile increased in mirth, as they rapidly
consumed the good fare placed before them. The conversa-
tion became increasingly animated, and some of the women
soon entered at the farther end, and joined in the subjects
of amusement. These were the secondary wives of the
household, the proper wife and the daughters-in-law being
never permitted to mingle in the free, unrestrained conver-
sation with strangers which is sometimes allowed in the
inferior class of female domestics. Great civility was
shown to us; but we declined to partake of the feast. It
was very melancholy to witness the habit of reckless
lying which manifested itself so frequently in their replies,
both the old man and the son showing not the least
compunction or sense of shame in telling flagrant false-


358 MODE OP PROGNOSTICATING THE SEASONS.
hoods whenever it suited their purpose. In reply to our
question about one of the women present, the old man
said, first, that she was an acquaintance: then, shortly
after, that she was a daughter-in-law; and, at last, the
plain truth came out, that she was one of his secondary
wives. Not the slightest jealousy appeared to be cherished
in regard to the latter class of wives, though the mistress of
the family did not once make her appearance. This lower
class of women are generally purchased from poor parents
as domestic servants, with the liberty of degrading them to
the rank of inferior wives, which practice is generally preva-
lent, and is considered, even by their sages, to be strictly in
accordance with moral rectitude, if the proper wife has
given birth to no son. The offspring of both classes of
wives are considered legitimate, although the sons of concu-
bines, in inheriting the patrimony, receive only half as much
as the son of the proper wife, or mistress of the household. The supper being ended, they next prepared for burn-
ing the small wooden frames of the lamps, which are gen-
erally kept burning in the dark interior of their houses.
From the ashes which remain they profess to derive means
of ascertaining the exact period of the rainy and dry sea-
sons of the coming year, the knowledge of which is very
important in a land where famine often exposes so many
thousands to the danger of starvation, from the destruction
of their crops. Three little frames of lamps were brought,
and placed ready for lighting on the pavement. The eldest
son went forth into the street, and discharged some crack-
ers, to drive away the evil spirits, while some of the domes-
tics folded up about a bushel of gold and silver paper into
the shape of lumps of silver. The eldest son soon returned
and set fire to the materials, and in about ten minutes the
whole was consumed to ashes. The live embers were then
carefully distributed into twelve little heaps, answering to
the twelve months of the year. They were then anxiously
watched, the heap which first burned out showing the most 


3f)0 A SUCCESSFUL LITERARY CAREER. Wishing to obtain a closer view of Chinese domestic life,
during this period of universal holyday, I availed myself of
the opportunity of accompanying one of the American mis-
sionaries on a series of calls at the houses of his more con-
stant hearers. After visiting a few families in the immedi-
ate vicinity of our own residence, we directed our steps to
the house of the old merchant, commonly addressed by the
honorable title of Ta laou-yay. His house, of better exte-
rior and larger size than the generality, enjoyed also the
rare distinction of two lofty poles of honor, commonly
called joss-poles, and usually placed in front of houses of
mandarins and temples of the first order. These were
badges of honor ceded to the old man on account of the
successful literary career of his son, now absent at Peking.
The room into which we were conducted was hung round
with pictorial representations of landscapes and fairy
scenes, and delicate specimens of caligraphy. Among the
latter were two tablets, one of which was covered with the
character for "longevity," written in a hundred different
modes; and the other with the character for " happiness,"
written also in several different modes. Both scrolls had a
highly-ornamented paper as a ground-work, and were sent
as presents from Peking, by his son. On the table were
lying the cards of the city mandarins, sent out of compli-
ment to his rank, and containing the usual good wishes of
the season. Close to these was the new-year's state alma-
nac, just received from the capital. On another part of the
table lay a number of Christian tracts, and the Ten Com-
mandments, with a commentary, which he said that he daily
studied. He took me into an anteroom to view his son's
library, consisting of about 2000 thin volumes, and occupy-
ing a book-shelf of moderate size. Returning into the
larger room, he pointed me to a table at the upper end, oc-
cupying the place usually assigned to the family idols and
the ancestral tablet, and bade me observe that there were
no idols. Two candle-stands and a few incense-sticks still 


A RECLAIMED OPIUM-SMOKER. 361 remained on this altar-table, with a cushion placed before
it, on which he said that he knelt to pray, and burn incense
to the one true God. I reminded him that God was pres-
ent every where, and willing to receive worship in every
place; and that the state of the heart was more important
than posture of body or burning of incense. A beverage,
made from lotus-seed and a kind of dried fruit, with sweet-
meats, was now served round; during which time he made
inquiries respecting my visits to the other cities on the coast
of China, and the cause of my contemplated return to Eng-
land. He exhorted me to trust in Providence for the res-
toration of my health. He passed some high-flown compliments on ourselves, and made some general remarks on the
favorable opinion of the mandarins concerning the mission-
aries, during which he professed to repeat some recently-
uttered flattery of the officials respecting our integrity and
benevolence. A son and a grandson stood at the entrance
of the room, but did not utter a word except when the con-
versation was specially directed to them; whereupon they
returned a modest reply, and again resumed their silent,
quiet manner. He permitted us at length to take our de-
parture. Our next visit was to the house of an old man named
Lim-pai, who had been recently reclaimed from opium-
smoking. The comparative poverty of his present circum-
stances—the consequence of the late British war—had pro-
duced in him a fretfulness and irritability, which he had
great difficulty in controlling. He was formerly a land-
owner in Koo-lang-soo, and was also the proprietor of
some trading junks. The arrival of the British force in-
volved him in ruin, and he had to effect his escape across
to Amoy, where, though much reduced in circumstances,
he had at this time sufficient means of subsistence—his sons
having become boatmen, and contributing to the support
of their parent. According to the common custom every
where prevalent in China, the whole family, down to the Hh


362 DIFFICULTY IN REMOVING FAMILY IDOLS. third generation, lived together in one house. Formerly
he betrayed great excitement at the remembrance of his
misfortunes, bemoaning his fate and the hardship of his lot.
Latterly he appeared to have been softened by the exhor-
tations of the missionaries to submit to the will of God;
my companion especially, on this occasion, adverting to his
own recent domestic affliction in the loss of his wife and
two children, and instancing his own comfort and trust in
the mercy and love of a chastening Father. The old man's
spirits were gradually cheered, and he talked about various
matters of local interest. Seeing on the table, at the end
of the room, the usual assemblage of those emblems of
superstition—the family idols on the right hand, and the
ancestral tablet in its corresponding case on the left—I drew his attention to the inconsistency of this fact with his
regular attendance at the chapel. I remarked also to him,
that Ta laou-yay had put away his idols, and that I could
have wished he had done the same. This excited the old
man to say some uncharitable things of Ta laou-yay; in
the course of which he called him an old hypocrite, and as-
serted that, if we could gain admission into the interior of
the house, he doubted not that we should find the idols in
some other room. A long conversation here took place, in
which a servant who accompanied us earnestly took part,
on the difficulties and obstacles in the way of removing the
family idols. The old man said that he never worshiped
idols, and disbelieved in such nonsense; but grandmothers,
mothers, and wives were so superstitious—the members of
the family, who had to be consulted and won over, were
so numerous—and the domestic disturbance consequent on
any rash step of this kind outraging their feelings would be
so serious a matter—that he preferred peace and quietness,
and was compelled to let the idols remain merely for cus-
tom's sake, although he himself never would be so foolish
as to worship them.
'We next visited Lim seen-sang, a man of some little 


364 UNIVERSAL PREVALENCE OF GAMBLING.
the useful capacity of nurse, housekeeper, and adviser, and
exercised over the members of the family a general control,
which was never resisted. Her word was law, and her in-
fluence appeared to be paramount. The teacher was a
poor man, earning only six dollars a month from tuition.
He seemed, however, contented; and the old lady espe-
cially thanked my companion for his kindness to her son.
When a grandmother dies, the wife then comes into her
full share of influence; and the position which she holds
in the family circle presents the social condition of females
in China, as an anomalous spectacle of mingled degrada-
tion and independence. A triumphal arch, under which we passed on our return,
was erected by command of one of the emperors, and was
inscribed with an imperial edict, instituting a certain re-
ward or bestowal of rank on the families of widows who
remained unmarried. Only the richest families are said to
benefit by this act of imperial favor. On our way we experienced some difficulty in threading
our course through the crowds attracted by the feats of
jugglers and mountebanks, or assembled in more orderly
rows on benches to hear a public novel-reader explaining,
in the vulgar dialect, from a written book in his hand.
Fireworks were to be heard bursting and dispersing their
smoking contents in all directions. The whole population
seemed to divide their employments between feasting,
firing, and gambling on this universal holyday, celebrated
by one third part of the human race. For the next half
month gambling, however, appeared to be the principal
business. The laws being in abeyance, and their penalties
ostensibly relaxed for five days against this vice, whole
streets might be seen covered with gaming-tables, which
were kept, in some cases, by mere children, a small per-
centage on the stakes, or a payment according to time,
being received as hire. Noisy quarrels, comparatively un-
usual at other times, were now to be heard in all direc-








368
AN INaUIRER.
in abstinence with a view to prayer, humiliation, and med-
itation, the moral state of the heart being the matter of es-
sential importance. He was encouraged to renew his visits,
and reminded of the unreasonableness of expecting to ob-
tain an intimate knowledge of all the doctrines of the Gos-
pel in a single hearing. 


CHAPTER XXVIII. NEW-YEAR VISITS OF CEREMONY TO THE HIGH MANDARINS OF AMOY. A Chinese Bride—Visit to the Te-tok, or Chinese Admiral; his Adroitness
in escaping the British War; his recent Disgrace—The Cham-hoo, or
military Commandant; his Discussion with the Missionaries, and Defense
of Idolatry—The Taou-tai, or Prefect, a Manchoo Tartar—The Hai-quan,
or Inspector of Customs, a Manchoo—The Hai-hong, or Lord Mayor—
A Budhist Nunnery—The privileged incorporation of Beggars. In the evening of the same day we were invited by
Hok-ha, one of our neighbors, to pay a wedding-visit to
his bride, to whom he was married on the preceding even-
ing. He was a youth of about twenty-one years of age,
apparently a sincere inquirer after Christian truth, and a
constant attendant on the means of grace, both at the chapel
and at Mr. Pohlman's family devotions. His father died
eleven years ago, and he was now an assistant to his uncle,
a ropemaker. The latter, on whom he was in a great
measure dependent, had frequently shown his displeasure
at Hok-ha's continual absence at the missionary services;
and on one occasion Hok-ha had to take refuge for more
than a week in the house of one of the missionaries from
the harsh severity of his relative. He showed much grati-
tude, and was evidently attached to the missionaries. He
was in an interesting state of mind, and lived in the daily
habit of prayer. Seven years ago his widowed mother
purchased for him a wife, who had lived in the family ever
since, and was now sixteen years old. His mother com-
manded her son to celebrate the nuptials, though he would
himself have preferred waiting for two years, till his pros-
pects were brighter, and he became more independent of
his uncle. But as the old lady was anxious to establish


370
A CHINESE BRIDE. the family, Hok-ha being her only son, her commands were
peremptory, and obedient submission to her authoritative
will became his only alternative. Under the circumstances
of the bride being already an inmate of the family, there
was no marriage-procession to conduct her to the house of
her husband; and there had been only the usual feast and
nuptial ceremonies on the preceding evening. We were ushered by the bridegroom up two or three
nights of steps into his humble apartment, where we took
our seats on a couch opposite a table covered with the re-
mains of a feast. By the side of this table the bride stood,
having her eyes cast toward the ground, and wrapped up
in strict efforts to preserve propriety—custom not permit-
ting a bride to speak to a visitor till after three days, nor
to go out, except to the house of her parents, till after thirty
days. She was a very pretty, interesting girl, with a pro-
fusion of artificial flowers forming a tiara on her head, and
with a handsome, bright-red bridal robe, her face being
covered with pearl-dust, rather beyond the limits of Euro-
pean taste. At her husband's suggestion she handed to
us a plate of sweetmeats from a drawer, of which we par-
took by way of compliment. She continued to stand dur-
ing the whole of our visit. A glass mirror lay on a dress-
ing-table close by, into which she directed an occasional
glance, to assure her mind of her strict preservation of ap-
pearances. Although my companion once or twice ad-
dressed her, she strictly preserved silence. She appeared,
however, sometimes to experience difficulty in suppressing
a simpering laugh, and to be in great danger of breaking
through her affected seriousness. Hok-ha seemed greatly
pleased with his bride. He had renounced idolatry, and
stated his determination to have no idols in his own part
of the house. In proof of his sincerity there were no idols
or other symbols of idolatry in the room in which we were,
and which was the only room exclusively belonging to him-
self.


THE TE-TOK, OR ADMIRAL. 371
Jan. With.—This being the second day of the new year,
we formed a party of five missionaries, in order to make a
visit, and to pay our respects to the high mandarins of the
city. Entering the citadel, we soon approached the large
open area, forming the entrance to the palace of the te-tok,
or admiral. The first court into which we passed consisted
of a large, inclosed, open space, with little outhouses or
offices in a dilapidated state on either side. This was oc-
cupied for four or five days after the capture of Amoy by
Sir Hugh Gough and the British troops, till their removal
across to the island of Koo-lang-soo. The troops bivou-
acked in this open court; but on the first night, the build-
ings on the left were set on fire by the Chinese. The
present te-tok, who also, during the British war, was in
power, and possessed the highest authority, naval and mili-
tary, was opportunely absent from the scene of warlike
operations. Shortly before the capture of the city, he went
out to sea with his fleet of war-junks, ostensibly to meet the
English ships and sink them on the wide deep; but he
contrived to miss the British fleet, and to escape the dread-
ed conflict. When all the local authorities were cashiered
and punished by the emperor for their pusillanimity in suf-
fering the barbarians to capture the place, the te-tok, under
these circumstances, received only a light punishment,
being merely degraded three degrees of rank. But on his
memorializing the throne, and representing that his absence
from the scene of war was more his misfortune than his
fault, and was, moreover, occasioned by his courage and
zeal in the public service, he was restored to all his forfeit-
ed honors. Recently, however, he had again been involved
in trouble, by having recommended an unsuitable candi-
date for military promotion to one of the national boards at
Peking, and had been stripped of all the badges of his former
rank, but not of the power or emoluments of office. We
found, on inquiry from his secretary, that he was absent
on some expedition along the coast, and would not return 


372 HIS EXPLOITS AGAINST pieates.
for six days. He was now absent probably in order to
avoid the mortification of being seen at this holyday sea-
son without the usual badges of his rank, or to endeavor
by some signal service at sea to regain favor at court,
which his reported wealth was likely to insure at a very
early period. His naval command extended along the
coast of Fokeen and Chekeang. He had the character of
being a confirmed opium-smoker, and had sometimes come
fresh from the fumes, so as to talk rather wildly to the mis-
sionaries amid the confused state of his brain, boasting of
his recent exploits against the pirates, and of his having cut
off a hundred heads. Our second visit, a few days later, which, for the sake
of convenience and connection I here anticipate, was more
successful. He received us with apparent cordiality. He
was a decrepit old man of seventy years of age, without
any of the usual ornaments of official rank, both he and his
attendants being dressed in the plainest style, on account
of his recent disgrace. He smoked tobacco incessantly,
his conversation turning on his recent exploits in Che-
keang, where he said that he had captured between thirty
and forty pirates, and the same number also in the neigh-
boring district of Tung-hwa. He spoke of the pirates
being at this time very numerous. He next directed the
topic of conversation to the price of our furs and dresses.
He told us that his own fur came from Russia, and was of
a very rare kind; acquainting us further with the price of
the small piece of fur which faced his cuffs, which alone,
he said, cost ten dollars. In reference to my intended
voyage to England, he advised me to hasten my departure
during the prevalence of the north winds, which he seemed
to think would take me the whole voyage to Europe. It
was currently rumored in Amoy that he wanted to resign
his command, and to retire to his native place in the south-
western part of Canton province, but that he could not
yet obtain permission to abandon his post. He received, 


THE CHAM-HOO, OE COMMANDANT.
373
with expressions of thankfulness, St. Luke's Gospel and a
tract; but appeared to possess very little intellectual
capacity, being a very unfavorable specimen of a Chinese
officer. Our next visit was to the cham-hoo, or military com-
mandant, whose official residence was situated near that of
the te-tok. He came into an outer court to meet us, shak-
ing hands with us separately, and conducted us into a large
inner hall. He wore a light-blue knob on his cap, the
badge of the third rank of military officers. He was the
only resident officer of high rank who was a native of the
neighborhood. He spoke the Tung-hwa variety of the
local dialect, which enabled the missionaries to converse
freely with him without the necessity of an intervening in-
terpreter. Of this they took full advantage, the cham-hoo
himself being also very friendly and communicative. Find-
ing that some of our number had been originally resident
in Java, he inquired particularly about Calapa (Batavia)
and the Chinese emigrants in that country. He requested
information respecting the condition of the latter, and in-
quired whether they preserved their Chinese customs and
dress. He also put several questions concerning the gen-
eral character and policy of the Dutch government toward
the Chinese settlers. He then inquired about a teacher
named Boone, formerly at Amoy; and mentioned his hav-
ing had some conversation respecting the United States
with a Chinese, who had accompanied Dr. Boone from
Amoy to America. He mentioned, also, the fact of his
having been shown a daguerrotype likeness, taken in
America, and inquired whether the missionaries had the
apparatus for taking likenesses with such wonderful rapid-
ity. He next wished to hear particulars about a nation of
dwarfs, in America, of whom he had heard. An English
missionary present, Mr. Young, who, through advantages
in early youth, now possessed a tolerably perfect knowl-
edge of the spoken dialect, drew the conversation to the
II


VISIT TO THE TAOU-TA,!.
all nations in the bond of peace. After the usual supply of
tea and sweetmeats had passed round, we took leave of
him in the outer court, to which he accompanied us. Returning from the citadel into the outer city, we soon
arrived at the residence of the principal civil mandarin, the
taou-tai, a Manchoo Tartar, who was adorned with the
insignia and opake blue knob of the fourth rank. Our
cards having been sent in, he speedily made his appear-
ance at a flight of steps in the outer court; and, after shak-
ing hands, conducted us to an inner room, where he con-
tinued standing till we were all seated, and then himself
occupied the lowest place. He lately served as chc-foo in
Szechuen province, and came to Amoy on his promotion.
He made many inquiries about our respective countries,
and seemed to be much impressed by the fact of our reli-
gion appearing to unite us in the bonds of fraternal affec-
tion, though we belonged to different nations. He inquired
the number of years that had elapsed since the separation
of the United States from Britain, and expressed a wish to
obtain some maps of foreign lands, with the names written
in Chinese characters, which I subsequently sent him as a
present. Finding that, of the seven missionaries now resi-
dent atAmoy,three were English,he remarked that we were
better off than he was in this respect, as he had only one
Manchoo fellow-countryman, the hai-quan, besides himself
at Amoy. He said that there were about thirty-four Man-
choos holding office in Fokeen province,* and also between * The Chinese at the present time frequently express dissatisfaction with
the diminished amount of encouragement which literature receives in the
promotion of officers on the claims of literary merit. Under the preceding
native dynasty, they say that all political offices were conferred on the lit-
erary graduates; but that under the present foreign dynasty, out of every
ten offices of government, about three are given to Manchoos from birth,
one to wealthy persons willing to purchase promotion by bribery, and only
six to Chinese graduates, irrespectively of birth or wealth. The Manchoo
dynasty is thus gradually closing up the only safety-valve for the ambition
of native patriots, and is exposed to serious danger from this outrage on
public opinion.


376
THE HAI-HONG, OR LORD MAYOR. four and five thousand Manchoo soldiers. He made inqui-
ries about Mr. Abeel, who, he said, had supplied him with
Christian books three years ago. The hai-quan, or inspector of customs, a Manchoo, whom
we next visited, was absent from home; but, in common
with the rest of the mandarins, sent his cards to each of us
the next day, by way of returning our compliment. From this point we sailed in a boat to the suburb of Ha-
mun-ka, to pay our respects to the hai-hong. He received
us with the same condescension and kindness which we
experienced on a former occasion, inquiring our ages, and
complimenting the medical missionary present on the be-
nevolence and skill of his profession. He remarked that
he had never seen any Roman Catholic books, though that
religious sect had been for a long time in the country.
During our interview he voluntarily proposed that we
should send him an assortment of our religious books,
saying that, after reading them himself, he would circu-
late them among his people. We left, amid the shrill
notes of clarionets and pipes, and the rumbling, mo-
notonous sounds of a kind of brass instrument, which only
gave one note throughout the tune to the other instru-
ments. The next day a package of Christian books was careful-
ly selected, and forwarded to each of the mandarins, who
sent their cards to us in acknowledgment of the gift. The
teacher who took the books, Tan seen-sang, was summoned
into the presence of the cham-hoo, after the delivery of the
books, and a series of questions was put to him respecting
the nature of their contents, which, from his general ac-
quaintance with Christian doctrines he was well qualified
to answer. He entered into the details of our religion,
and explained the nature of our books, especially meeting
the cham-hoo's objections as to the different style of Chi-
nese composition observable in them. He drew his atten-
tion particularly to the fact of our Bible being translated 


A BUQHIST NUNNERY.
377
from the original languages in which it was written, which
would account for its apparent contrariety to the Chinese
literary style. He explained that the tracts and books,
written and composed by the missionaries were original
productions, and could, therefore, be more easily conform-
ed to Chinese taste and style. The cham-hoo professed to
enter into the distinction, as fully accounting for the differ-
ence of style, and said much to the teacher on the good
objects of the missionaries and the excellence of Christian
doctrines. During the next few days I was engaged in accompany-
ing some of the missionary brethren in their afternoon ex-
cursions among the people; and the temples, the city ram-
parts, opium-shops, and private houses, were in turn the
scene of our visits. On one occasion we entered a Budhist
nunnery, named Seen shan she, in which ten nuns and four
senior abbesses resided. They brought us tea and sweet-
meats, and afterward presented some to the little crowd
which followed us into the interior; but the latter consid-
erately declined receiving any, saying that the nuns would
incur expense if so many received their kindness. Of the
two abbesses, who waited on us, one was seventy and the
other eighty years of age. The latter had been sold to the
nunnery at the age of three years, where she had ever since
lived. She was now toothless from age, but seemed to
receive a larger measure of respect from the by-standers
than was usually accorded to this class of females. The
entrance had its newly-posted lucky sentences to the fol-
lowing effect—"Shut out from the world," "Grandmothers
in heart." In the temple in which we sat there were im-
ages of the three precious Budhs, on a raised platform, and
of the original disciples of Budh on either side, with every
imaginable variety of expression depicted in their features.
The two abbesses spoke of Mr. Abcel having been there in
former times, and of his having given them some tracts, which they were able to read—a rare case of even the
n*


378 PRIVILEGED INCORPORATION OF BEGGARS.
lowest degree of mental culture being perceptible among
women, and especially among priestesses. Among the various matters of business observable at this
time of the new year, was the almost universal practice of
changing some small bills on the front of the houses. These
papers, on inquiry, were found to refer to that numerous
portion of the inhabitants of Chinese cities—the beggar
population. The beggars at Amoy are enrolled by a sys-
tem of laws and regulations, to which they are subject
among themselves, and of which the law of the state also
takes an indirect cognizance. A king of the beggars is
duly elected from their number, who calls on each house-
holder at the beginning of the year, and ascertains the
monthly subscription which he is willing to give, in order
to be free from the annoyance of their visits for alms, and
the clatter of the sticks by which they implore relief. For
the sum of five or six hundred cash a month, he gives a red
piece of paper, inscribed with three copies of the characters
for "great good luck," inclosed within an outline of a jar or
vase. This is affixed to the door-post as a sign of immuni-
ty, and is renewed at the commencement of every year.
Any beggar overlooking this bill of exemption, and entering
a shop for relief, may be seized by the householder, and be
beaten on the spot. The king, after giving a certain pro-
portion to the mandarins, and apportioning a certain fund
for the support of the incorporated society of beggars, con-
trives to appropriate the remainder to his own use, and to
become a rich man. The beggars are covered with tat-
tered rags, wear long, disheveled hair, and are not very
particular in the mode of satisfying their hunger. I ob-
served one pass the shop of a confectioner, and stealthily
slip a cake into his hand, and thence into his sleeve. One
of the partners, who saw the theft, ran out and followed
the thief, caught him by the hair, made him restore the
cake from the folds of his sleeve, and then, by a species
of lynch-law very common in a country where ordinary 


CHINESE LYNCH-LAW. 379 law is expensive, and bribes must precede justice, gave
.he beggar a severe beating, and let him depart, amid
the applause of the crowd, the good-humor of the trades-
man himself, and a remarkable nonchalance on the part of
the offender. 


CHAPTER XXIX. FACTS ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE PREVALENCE AND
EFFECTS OF OPIUM-SMOKING. Visit to Opium-Dens—Confessions of Opium-Smokers—Moral and physical
Effects of Opium—Local System of Smuggling, and Mode of Retail—
Detailed Testimony of ten consecutive Cases of Opium-Smokers, taken
from their own Lips. During my stay at Amoy I made many inquiries re-
specting the prevalence and effects of opium-smoking, and
often visited, with a missionary friend, some of the shops
in which opium was sold. The first opium-house which we entered was situated
close to the entrance to the taou-tai's palace. Four or five
rooms, in different parts of a square court, were occupied
by men stretched out on a rude kind of couch, on which
lay a head-pillow, with lamps, pipes, and other apparatus
for smoking opium. In one part of the principal room the
proprietor stood, with delicate steel-yards, weighing out
the prepared drug, which was of a dark, thick, semi-fluid
consistency. A little company of opium-smokers, who had
come hither to indulge in the expensive fumes, or to feast
their eyes with the sight of that which increasing poverty
had placed beyond their reach, soon gathered around us,
and entered into conversation. Lim-pai, who accom-
panied us—himself a reclaimed opium-smoker—earnest-
ly took part in the conversation with his countrymen.
They formed a motley group of sallow, sunken cheeks,
and glassy, watery eyes, as, with idiotic look and vacant
laugh, they readily volunteered items of information, and
described the process of their own degradation. There
was to be seen the youth, who, just emerging from boy-
hood, had only commenced the practice a little time before, 


SIX EVILS OF OPIUM-SMOKING. 381
and was now hastening to a premature old age. There
was the man of middle age, who, for half his life a victim
of this pernicious indulgence, was bearing with him to an
early grave the wreck of his worn-out constitution. There
was again the more elderly man, whose iron strength of
frame could better ward off the slow but certain advances
of decrepitude, but whose bloated cheek and vacant stare
told of the struggle that was raging within. There was
again the rarely-seen spectacle of old age; and the man of
sixty lived yet to tell of forty years consumed in the seduc-
tions of this vice. They all assented to the evils and suffer-
ings of their course, and professed a desire to be freed from
its power. They all complained of loss of appetite, of the
agonizing cravings of the early morning, of prostration of
strength, and of increasing feebleness, but said that they
could not gain firmness of resolution to overcome the habit.
They all stated its intoxicating effects to be worse than
those of drunkenness, and described the extreme dizziness
and vomiting which ensued, so as to incapacitate them for
exertion. The oldest man among their number, with a
strange inconsistency and candor, expatiated on the misery
of his course. For three years he said he had abandoned
the indulgence, at the period of Commissioner Lin's men-
acing edicts and compulsory prohibition of opium. At the
conclusion of the British war, the opium-ships came unmo-
lested to Amoy: he had opened an opium-shop for gain;
and soon he himself fell a victim. He enlarged on the
evils of opium-smoking, which he asserted to be six: 1.
Loss of appetite. 2. Loss of strength. 3. Loss of money.
4. Loss of time. 5. Loss of longevity. 6. Loss of virtue,
leading to profligacy and gambling. He then spoke of the
insidious approaches of temptation, similar to those of the
drunkard's career. A man was sick, or had a cold: a
friend recommended opium, and he fell into the snare. Or,
again, some acquaintance would meet him, and press him,
by urgent solicitations, to accompany him to an opium-


382
APPROPRIATE NEIGHBORS. house. At first he would refuse to join in smoking; by
degrees, however, his friends became cheerful; their so-
ciety was pleasant; his scruples were derided; his objec-
tions speedily vanished; he partook of the luxury; it soon
became essential to his daily life; and he found himself at
length unable to overcome its allurements. Some of the Chinese present requested us to give them
medicine to cure them of the habit; but my companion
told them that the only medicine necessary was a firm
heart, which God could give them; and pointed them to
Lim-pai, as an instance of the power of a virtuous resolu-
tion. The latter again entered on the subject, earnestly
testifying his increased happiness and comfort since he
abandoned the vice half a year ago. The oldest opium-
smoker replied by excusing himself of all moral guilt in the
matter, and said that it was "heaven's decree" that he
should be overcome by the vice, which he therefore could
not escape. We left this establishment amid many inqui-
ries for medicine, in which the proprietor of the house
joined. He appeared not to be in the least degree dis-
pleased at the freedom of our remarks on an indulgence
which brought him his means of livelihood. On hearing
that I was an English missionary, they exposed the incon-
sistency of my rebuking their habit of smoking opium,
while my countrymen brought them the means of indulging
it. Jlost of them seemed to labor under the delusion that
the missionaries were all Americans, and the opium-smug-
glers were all Englishmen—a mistake of which we of
course took every means of disabusing their minds. I subsequently visited about thirty other opium-shops in
different parts of the city. One of these opium-dens was a
narrow, dark, and filthy hole, almost unfit for a human
being to enter, and appropriately joining a coffin-maker's
shop. From the people we gained various particulars as
to the nature and extent of the opium traffic. The large
native wholesale dealers were in the habit of strongly


IMIXNITY IN THE OPIUM TRAFFIC. manning and arming a boat, in which they profceedfcd 'out-
side the boundaries of the port to the Six Islands. There
the foreign opium-vessels lying at anchor were similarly armed and prepared for resistance, in the event of the
Chinese authorities attempting to capture them. The na-
tive boats returned with the chests of opium to Amoy, and
might be seen, with some European flag flying uloft, pass-
ing swiftly through the harbor, with sails set, and all the
crew plying their oars. They always formed too strong
force to encourage the hope of successful pursuit, either by
the pirates Or 'by the mandarins. The wholesale native
smugglers then retail the opium-balls separately to the re-
tail-dealers and proprietors of opium-shops. No secrecy
is observed respecting this article of universal traffic. I
have seen three consecutive houses kept by opium-Venders.
The people say that there are nearly a thousand such es-
tablishments in Amoy. Public notices on the corners of
streets frequently invited the attention of passers-by to
opium " three winters old" sold in the opposite house. To
the better class of these shops the servants of rich men
might be seen resorting, in order to purchase the prepared
drug, and to carry it in little boxes, or, if the quantity were
moderate, on little bamboo leaves, to their master, for
smoking at his own house. They all asserted that they paid
no bribes to the mandarins, saying that these also smoked
opium, and, therefore, were prevented by shame from in-
terfering with the people. They assented to the probabil-
ity of bribes being paid to the native authorities by the
large wholesale purchasers, who go outside the harbor to
buy opium from the foreign ships. Among other proofs of
the full cognizance of the local authorities, as well as of
the very general prevalence of opium-smoking, may be
mentioned the fact of persons being met with in almost
every street, who gain their entire livelihood by manufac-
turing the bowls of opium-pipes, which 'they pnblicly ex-
pose for sale in 'every direction.


384 TEN CONSECITIVE CASES OF OPIUM-SMOKERS.
Wishing to obtain more accurate information and data
on the physical and moral effects of opium than were to be
gathered from a general recollection of the cases which I
witnessed, I was afterward accompanied by Mr. Pohlman,
who kindly acted as interpreter, to ten opium-houses, in
order that I might possess ten consecutive cases of opium-
smokers, and gain positive testimony from their own con-
fessions on the subject. We generally took the first man
in each house whom we beheld in the act of inhaling the
fumes; and the questions proposed were generally answer-
ed by the individual without any restraint or unwillingness.
Sometimes his companions who might be present spoke
also in confirmation of his statements. The simple evi-
dence is recorded without lengthened comment, to enable
the reader to form his own unbiassed opinion concerning
the effects of opium. The writer has no object in view but
truth, and a desire that the real state of the case, and the
real effects of the system should be known, whatever the
result may be, whether tending to augment or to moderate
the general current of the feelings and views of the benev-
olent portion of the public. He would merely premise,
that the recorded cases are those of poor men frequenting
houses of the lowest description, and not generally possess-
ing the means of a very excessive indulgence; and that the
rich, who possess the power of gratifying to the full their
propensity to opium, do not smoke the drug in these com-
mon establishments, but consume it in secrecy at their cwn
homes.
No. 1. Was that of a man thirty-nine years old, a mate
on board a trading-junk from Teen-sing. He had smoked
four years. He professed to have commenced the practice
from a disease in the heart, and to have found it beneficial
as a relief from the pain. During the first two years he
gradually increased the dose. During the last two years
he smoked daily ten fun, or candareens, i. e., one tseen, or
mace (equivalent to sixty grains, or one drachm); one half


THEIE TESTIMONY AND CONFESSIONS. 385 in the morning, and the other half in the evening. The
indulgence cost him daily 190 cash (about eightpence) at
the present rate of consumption. He had a wife and five
children. Early in the morning, the craving desire for
opium made him feel ill till he took his accustomed quan-
tity. He testified to the diminution of his appetite and
strength since he began the habit. He was apparently a
man of very strong constitution and robust frame, and had
hitherto suffered but little from the effects, although his
countenance wore a bloated appearance. No. 2. Was forty-two years old, and had been fifteen
years an opium-smoker. He formerly smoked a mace,
but now, from poverty, could only afford to smoke three
candareens a-day. He was a literary teacher by profes-
sion, but was in reduced circumstances. He complained
of decay of strength and loss of appetite. He professed to
be gradually leaving off opium, under the compulsion of
poverty; but pain in the stomach furnished him with an
excuse for taking an extra dose this afternoon. His hol-
low cheek and sallow countenance rendered him a wretch-
ed and pitiable-looking object. No. 3. Was twenty-five years old, and had smoked
opium three years. He began the practice with two or
three candareens daily, but, having gradually increased the
dose, now smoked a mace. He complained of loss of ap-
petite and decay of strength. He was formerly much
stronger. He was the headman of a company of coolies.
Out of between 200 or 300 cash, his daily wages, he spent
190 cash in opium. His idiotic look and sunken eye made
him appear a wretched object, overtaken in early youth by
the decrepitude and infirmities of old age. The by-standers
gave him the character of being exceedingly depraved, even
in the Chinese estimate of morality. No. 4. Was fifty-one years old, and had smoked opium
fifteen years. He was a sailor on board a trading-junk.
He had been smoking more than a mace a-day. He said
Rb


386 INEFFECTUAL EFFORTS TO REFORM. that his appetite and strength were greatly diminished.
He was formerly addicted to drunkenness; but experi-
enced the effects of opium to be much more destructive.
Opium often made him ill. He often felt the desire to
vomit, without the power of doing so. By the advice, and
with the help of the keeper of the opium-house, he had
been trying to reform, and for eight days had not smoked
his usual dose. He was now eating a medicinal com-
pound to cure the craving, and to enable him to break off
the habit by degrees. This medicine was made of sugar,
ginseng-root, and some opium-soot; sugar, however, form-
ing the principal ingredient. He confessed that he still
smoked a little at night, and appeared so wedded to the
vice, as to be almost an involuntary instrument in hasten-
ing on his premature destruction. No. 5. Was a deaf man, unable to catch a sound, and
suspicious withal: a wretched object, of about forty years
of age, in the greatest destitution, and with squalid appear-
ance. He came to the shop to buy two candareens of
opium to smoke at his own house. The by-standers said
that a person commencing to smoke opium would be intox-
icated by two candareens, but that a much larger quantity
is gradually required to produce this effect. No. 6. Was fifty years old, and had smoked opium four-
teen years. He smoked a mace daily. He was engaged
in smoking over again the soot of opium, scraped out from
the bowl of his pipe. He said that his appetite and strength
were greatly diminished. He was formerly an opium-house
keeper, but failed in business. He now hired the house in
which we were. In this wretched hovel he continued, on
a small scale, his former business. His sons, who were
farmers in the country, contributed to his support. No. 7. Was forty-three years old, and had smoked opium
thirteen years. He was the proprietor of the establishment,
being employed also as a secretary to some mandarin. He
had smoked from seven candareens to a mace daily. He


RETORT OF A NATIVE OPIUM-DEALER. 387 spoke of his loss of appetite and strength. He stated that
he was desirous of reforming, and anxious to know the
means of reformation. He had twice partially abandoned
the indulgence, but his boon companions inveigled him
back to the vice. He acknowledged that he was in better
health during the period of his abstinence, and stated his
conviction that, if he could even now abandon the seduc-
tion, he would regain much of his former strength. Previ-
ously to his former reformations he had eaten a medicinal
preparation, consisting of two candareens of opium-soot
mixed with arrack, sugar, and other ingredients, amount-
ing to eight kinds in all. He assented to the folly and evil
of his course. A partner in one of the opium establish-
ments, however, as he was weighing out the drag to his
customers, once retorted to the remonstrances of my com-
panion, by asking, "Why, then, do the foreign ships bring
us the opium 1 Go, rather, and prevail on your country-
men not to bring us opium." No. 8. Was thirty years old, and had smoked, for two
years, three candareens a-day; one half in the morning,
and the other half in the evening. He complained of loss
of appetite and diminution of strength. He said that he
desired to reform, but was unable to accomplish his desire,
as abstinence, even for a day or two, produced great dis-
tress and pain in his limbs. He was a maker of bamboo
chairs. He had a wife, but no children. (The by-standers
all testified, on this and other occasions, that opium-smokers
have few children.) His cheeks had a sallow, sunken ap-
pearance. He said that he was formerly stout and robust,
and that he had lost one half of his bodily weight. He
persisted in this last statement amid the expression of our
incredulity. No. 9. Was a boatman, fifty years old, and had smoked
three candareens a-day for above ten years. He complain-
ed of diminished appetite and strength, and had a vacant
look and bloated countenance.


388
AGONY OF THE CRAVING STATE. No. 10. Was thirty-seven years old, and had smoked
opium for thirteen years. His usual dose was one mace a
day. He was a shoemaker, and had a wife and three
children. He professed to be desirous of reforming, and
took from his pocket a mixture of opium-soot and salt to
cure the craving. Two days ago, having no money, he
took no opium; on the previous day he took half a dose:
on this day he had taken no opium, but was in great suffer-
ing from nervous prostration. He said that he was formerly
fat, healthy, and good looking. He had now a dreadfully
bloated appearance, was very weak, and unable to eat his
regular food. He wanted to know if there was any thing
that could enable him to reform. He replied to the exhor-
tations of my friend by shaking his head, and pointing to
his breast and hard breathing. He proceeded to describe
in detail, with accommodated gestures, the manner in
which, when making shoes at his bench, if he had not the
usual dose of opium, he fell away into a fainting fit. He
stated that he was in the habit of propping up his strength
by chewing a little of the mixture. It was affecting to
listen to the description of his sufferings, and to behold the
poor victim raising himself to a high degree of excitement,
as he was describing the progress of his own misery. He
said that, without the usual dose of opium, he could not re-
tain his food without vomiting. He earned 260 cash a-day,
out of which he spent from 180 to 220 cash in opium. His
youngest son was born six years ago, since which time he
had had no offspring. He begged importunately for our
help in supplying him with a remedy; and listened, va-
cantly assenting, as Mr. Pohlman told him to pray for help,
in breaking off his vice, to the Almighty. He said that
three days ago he had worshiped the idol of Shang-te (lit-
erally, "Almighty," the name of one of their deities), on
the birthday of the god. He again proceeded to imitate, by
gestures, the panting of the craving state, and complained
of being in the midst of temptations to the indulgence. He


CHAPTER XXX. FACTS ILLUSTRATIVE OF FEMALE INFANTICIDE. Trip to surrounding Tillages—Testimony of Villagers as to the Prevalence
and the Motives of Infanticide—Village Clanships—Ancestral Temple—
Village School-house — Confessions of infanticide Pajents — Modes of
Death commonly Practiced—Hospitality of a medical Patient—Case of
attempted Infanticide—Degradation of the female Sex. Jan. SQth.—During my occasional visits on horseback to
the villages scattered over the island, the subject of female
infanticide was brought under my notice. The facts with
which I became acquainted at Amoy produced in my
mind a conviction that this social evil exists in the province
of Fokeen to an extent which would be incredible, unless
the fullest evidence were at hand to establish its truth. In
the other parts of China which I visited, no well-authenti-
cated cases were brought under my knowledge sufficient to
prove that this crime prevailed to any considerable extent. In the vicinity of Shanghai and Ningpo, the moral atrocity,
if perpetrated, lurks in secret, and is comparatively too
rare an occurrence to be regarded as possessing the sanc-
tion of public opinion. On this day I was accompanied by the same kind friend,
who was ever ready to place his valuable aid at my dispo-
sal, in visiting and gaining information from the people.
We set out for some native villages on the opposite side of
the island, and at an early hour of the day had passed
through the suburb on the east of the city. Our course
lay over an extensive military parade-ground, situated
above the sea-battery. In one part there was a little tow-
er, on the top of which the high military officers were ac-
customed to sit as judges of the skill of the troops in shoot-


STATISTICS Ol* INFANTICIDE.
391
ing arrows at a large target, which was placed against a
pillar at a little distance. In another part of the ground
there were some walls, with mounds of sand, at which the
soldiers practiced filing with bullets. At a little distance
beyond, a line of massive fortifications skirted the beach
for a mile, till, at the farther end, bending to the north, it
formed a junction with the lofty precipices, which constitute
a mountain-barrier of natural defenses to the city on its north-
ern and eastern sides. Through this wall we passed under
one of the gateways by which the British troops had entered
in their advance toward the city. The whole line of fortifi-
cations appeared to be in good repair, but to be entirely des-
titute of guns, both on the ramparts and on the watch-towers. After a ride of six miles, we entered a village named
Hong-choo, where the people soon gathered around us, and
my companion entered into conversation with them. The
subject was gradually and cautiously led to infanticide, on
which they readily offered various items of statistical infor-
mation. They asserted, without hesitation, that female in-
fanticide was generally practiced among them; and their
statements were offered to us in a manner which indicated
the total absence of criminality from their views of the
practice. They stated that poor persons generally put to
death two female infants out of every four, immediately
after birth; but that rich persons, who could afford to rear
their female offspring, were not in the habit of murdering
their daughters. In the next village, about a mile distant, called Baw-a-
aou, we remained for two or three hours among the people,
who partook of the general friendly character of Chinese
villagers. The whole village was inhabited by persons
having the same surname of Lim, or Lin, who appeared to
be united together by the ties of patriarchal law. This
village clanship is a powerful bond of union, all the inhab-
itants regarding each other as heung-te, brethren or cousins.
They have a common property in the wells and the tem


ANCESTRAt TABLETS.
pies within their boundaries, which form subjects of occa-
sional dispute with the people of the next village. These
quarrels sometimes are carried to such an extent that the
belligerents on either side regularly muster their forces,
and an appeal is made to physical violence; the results of
this village warfare seldom, however, extending beyond
broken heads and fractured limbs. They seemed to expe-
rience satisfaction in showing us the little temples and
shrines, and especially in conducting us to explore that
most potent charm in the ancient associations and legends
of the village—the temple assigned to the sepulchral tablets
of their common ancestors. The ancestral tablets of the
original founders of the clan were duly arranged in three
rows. In the principal hall, which opened into an adjoining
square, there were about six tablets in all. The earliest
were placed in the third rank behind, and professed to num-
ber ten generations; the middle rank eleven, and the fore
rank twelve. The latest of these tablets were two or three
hundred years old, since which time no addition had been
made to their number. At the present time, even the oldest
and most respected men of the village, after their death,
merely had their tablets erected in the private dwellings of
their own family. There was an immense vase for incense,
with a lion carved on the top, and with incense-sticks on a
table which stood before it. The people seemed to attach
great sanctity to the tablets, and said that no amount of
money could prevail on them to dispose of these emblems
of ancestral worth. We soon adjourned to another public room of the village,
which was used as a school-house. The people were rather
afraid of our horses; and it was some time before we could
prevail on the most courageous of their number to get some
fodder, and to undertake to hold them. We were then
taken to some seats in the principal hall, at the other end
of which some idols were standing on a little platform.
About a hundred people were speedily collected around 


TESTIMONY OF OTHER VILLAGERS. 395 he would admonish all his daughters-in-law in future to
preserve their female children. A former patient of the Medical Missionary Hospital,
named Lin gnew, nowjoined us, who had had a tumor, weigh-
ing nearly two pounds, removed by a surgical operation
from his neck, and had his life thus prolonged by foreign
benevolence and skill. We accepted his invitation to take
a meal, which was, in the course of half an hour, set out
for us in the public hall. My companion told the crowd
that it was the custom of Christians to thank God for His
daily mercies, and to ask a blessing before a meal; and
requested them to preserve silence while I invoked the
Divine blessing on ourselves and the poor deluded heathen
by whom we were surrounded. They remained in deep
and attentive silence during the time. We were supplied
with wooden chop-sticks, and we took our dinner from
dishes of purely Chinese composition, consisting of boiled
rice, ducks' eggs, and a boiled mixture of cabbage, oys-
ters, and vermicelli. A handherchief served as a table-
cloth, and our host brought each of us a basin of water
to wash our hands after the repast. We offered some
money in return for the meal; but both Lin gnew and the
neighbors who stood around us stoutly refused to accept
any payment, and waved their hands at the unreasonable-
ness of our proposal. He afterward accepted Mr. Pohl-
man's invitation to return our visit on the following Sab-
bath, in order to be present at our religious worship, and
to hear the missionaries preach about Jesus Christ. This
engagement he accordingly fulfilled on the next Sunday;
accompanied by two of his neighbors, all dressed out in
their best holyday clothes. Respecting the population of
their village, they could give us no definite information, ex-
cept the fact that it contained one hundred and eighty fam-
ily messes, which they said would probably make it amount
to one thousand persons. On our return we put similar questions concerning infan-


398 MISFORTUNE OF FEMALE OFFSPRING.
hope of preserving the family-name of the father, and of
performing the funeral rites and other sacrificial offerings
to the spirits of their ancestors. 5. The general degrada-
tion and comparative uselessness of females are considered
as offering no adequate compensation for the expense of
their nurture and support. The villager, who had eight
daughters and no sons, might naturally, in such a state of
public opinion, deem himself very unfortunate in the ab-
sence of a belief in the wisdom and goodness of a directing
Providence. 


CHAPTER XXXI. DAILY INCIDENTS AT AMOY, CONTINUED. Chinese Missionary Meeting—Celebration of the Feast of Lanterns—A
Giant Specimen of Pyrotechnic Skill—Cessation of Holydays, and gen-
eral Resumption of Business—The Question of the Ancestral Tablet
Discussed—Chinese Bible-Class—Topics of Missionary Sermons—Origi-
nal Illustrations of Chinese Hearers—Indirect Persecution of a Religious
Inquirer. Feb. 2d.—This being the first Monday in the month, the
monthly missionary meeting, which had been established in
the previous month, was held for the benefit of the Chinese
catechumens. The six missionaries, their native teachers
and domestics, with a few neighbors, amounting altogether
to about thirty persons, assembled in the house of one of
the missionaries. The missionary who presided commenced
the proceedings with a prayer in Chinese, and then made a
few remarks, intended as a comment on a portion of Scrip-
ture, Acts xiii. 42, to end. Tan seen-sang then read from a
MS., which had been carefully prepared, with the previous
help of one of the missionaries, a statement of the character
and objects of their assembling together. Some maps, and
representations of the sun, moon, and planets, were hung
upon the wall, or lay on the table, to which continual ref-
erence was made. His range of topics embraced, 1. The
object of this missionary meeting; 2. The time and cir-
cumstances of its institution; 3. A brief historical sketch
of Protestant missions in China. The object of the meeting
he stated to be the offering up of prayer for their own con-
version, and that of the whole world. In reference to the
time of its institution, he said, that about sixty years ago,
some Christians in England, deeply impressed with the


400
CHINESE MISSIONARY MEETING. importance of propagating the Gospel of Jesus Christ, met
together, and agreed to set apart the first Monday in every
month for prayer for the Divine blessing on the missionary
work. This monthly meeting had since been generally
adopted among Christians in England and America. Till
the present time the Chinese had been without the privi-
lege of this missionary meeting. But the Gospel every
where possessed the same value and importance. The
Chinese could only obtain salvation in the same way as the
people of other nations. On this account the missionary
meeting was now established also at Amoy. In reference
to past missionary efforts among the Chinese, he asserted
that it was not because the doctrines of Jesus were not
equally necessary for the Chinese that they had not been
diffused abroad throughout China, but because the mission-
aries had been so few in number. Formerly, the emperor
and the mandarins forbade missionaries from entering the
Central Kingdom. In 1807, A. D. Morrison came to Can-
ton, and was obliged to live in privacy to avoid observation,
while Amoy, Foo-chow, Ningpo, Chusan, and Shanghai,
were shut out from the light. But now, relying upon the
aid of the Almighty and the Spirit of Jesus, the missiona-
ries had been, during four years, promulgating the truths
of Christianity; and they cherished the hope that the doc-
trines of the Gospel would continue to be more widely dif-
fused, till all mankind should hear, repent, believe, and be
saved. A prayer was then offered by another missionary, in
Chinese, after which Lin seen-sang read a paper previous-
ly composed, on the spread of the Gospel by missionary
operations in the islands of the South Sea. He described
the former condition of the inhabitants, who were idolaters,
infanticides, murderers, and licentious, and contrasted with
their former state their present altered character as a
Christian people, their holy indignation at idol-worship, and
their rapid growth in civilization. Many anecdotes and 


FEAST OF LANTERNS. 401 facts, illustrative of their former and present state, were
extracted and translated for the occasion, from the pub-
lished account of the lamented Williams. Tan seen-sang again read a paper, containing a lecture
on the missionary map of the world, which was exposed to
their view, and frequently offered some comments of his
own in the colloquial style. He first drew attention to the
spherical form of the earth, of which the mechanical repre-
sentation of the solar system, lying on a table, enabled
them to form a tolerably correct idea. Then followed a
description of the four great divisions of the earth, and of
the principal nations in each, in reference to their size, pop-
ulation, and religion. Then followed more minute details
of the religious systems professed by each. He then pro-
ceeded to state that the Bible declared that all these false
religions were to be abolished, and that every knee would
bow and confess Jesus to be the true Savior, the Lord of
all. For the consummation of this great end, Christ had
commanded His disciples to go into the whole world, and
preach the Gospel to every creature. In accordance with
this command, missionaries had gone out from Christian
lands into almost every part of the world, and for four
years past had been laboring in Amoy. But the labors of
missionaries were confined to the five free ports of China,
and they were prevented from going into the interior of
the country. He then dwelt on his own obligation, and
that of his countrymen who were present, to receive the
Gospel and to carry it into every part of the interior, until
the 400 millions who use the Chinese written character
(i. e., China and its dependencies, Corea, Japan, Cochin
China, &c), should all be converted to Christianity. The
meeting was closed with a prayer, in Chinese, by another
of the missionary brethren. Feb. 10th.—On this day the feast of lanterns was cele-
brated, which is the termination of the new-year holydays.
Previously to our going into the streets to view the long row


404
A MISSIONARY ADDRESS. souls of the Chinese. A few of the more ignorant, finding
that we were professedly devout men, wanted us to salute
and worship the idols. This of course drew on them the
remonstrance of the missionary, and the laughter of some
of their own countrymen, who had previously become ac-
quainted with the objections of Christians to idol-worship.
Soon afterward we were joined by another missionary and
his wife, the former of whom delivered an address to a few
tens of people who were collected around us. The mis-
sionary's wife made her way to a part of the temple where
the women were separated off within an inclosure. As
soon as they discovered her they at first affected to be
afraid; but afterward, on her addressing them in the local
dialect of Amoy, they became very friendly, and she re-
mained for some time among them. We proceeded from this spot, about half a mile, to an-
other open space before a temple. A number of persons
conducted us on our way, and continued to ask many ques-
tions during the time. Here the same array of lanterns
and crowds of people were again to be seen. Prepara-
tions were soon observed for discharging a large firework,
which formed a giant specimen of pyrotechnic skill. A
long pole was erected, fifty feet in height, hung round with
cases of rockets and other combustibles. On its being
lighted at the bottom there was a rapid succession of
squibs, roman-candles, guns, and rockets, which illumina-
ted the sky to a great distance with their igneous masses.
After this minor display a house suddenly dropped, with its
inmates, from one of the arms of the pole. The surround-
ing fireworks, far and near, were so arranged as to pour
in their shot and completely riddle the house. A volley of
lesser combustibles suddenly terminated in a beautiful clus-
ter of grapes, which lasted for some time, and shed a deep-
blue light on the houses and walls for some distance around.
A shower of golden rain was shortly after followed by an
umbrella of fire, which suddenly flew open, amid the loud 


GIANT SPECIMEN OF PYROTECHNIC SKILL. 405 cheers of the spectators. Soon after, a human figure was
impetuously carried round in a circular motion, and re-
ceived the discharge of the surrounding crackers. An
oblique shower of gold and silver rain followed; after
which some rockets pursued their flaming track along the
air, in a horizontal direction. These were succeeded by
rockets, shot perpendicularly to a great height. The dis-
play occupied a quarter of an hour, and was concluded
amid the boisterous plaudits of old and young. A general movement now took place among the crowd
to the temple which we had first visited; and we moved
thither ourselves, in the hope of seeing a celebrated lion-
firework, of an expensive kind. But as we afterward dis-
covered that it was not to be discharged till after midnight
in the third watch, and the crowd was also gradually re-
enforced in large numbers from the other wards, we deem-
ed it advisable to retrace our steps, and arrived at our resi-
dence at eleven p.m. In the streets through which we
passed, every temple was gaudily illuminated, and the serv-
ices of the priests, both of the Taou and the Budhist sects,
appeared to be in high request. In some parts a phan-
tasmagoria was exhibited, in which acting figures were
represented by means of a magic lantern, on a transparent
substance resembling tissue paper. The actions of the fig-
ures, even to the motion of the hand and the nod of the
head, were accommodated to the speeches delivered by a
concealed spokesman, who directed the whole apparatus
behind the scene. In one street a theatrical stage, with its
players acting some scene of imperial grandeur, crossed our
way; and we had no alternative but that of creeping on
our hands and knees, for a distance of twenty yards, on the
pavement under the stage to the other end. Here several
friendly hands were held out to assist us in regaining our
erect position. After this national feast of lanterns, the ordinary business
of the people, which, since the first day of the new year 


406 THE QUESTION OF THE ANCESTRAL TABLETS.
had only been partially resumed, now recommenced in
earnest. The penalties against gambling thus far relaxed,
either by law or by that which in China is equivalent, the
prescriptive right of custom, were now supposed to regain
their force; and the idle crowds of pleasure-hunters hearti-
ly re-engaged in the bustle and toil of daily business with
renewed energy and industry. From this time the idle show
of pageantry terminated, and every thing wore the absorb-
ing appearance of gain and commerce. Feb. IMA.—At the close of a religious service, held by
the missionaries, two questions were submitted for discus-
sion, in reference to the putting away of idols and ances-
tral tablets from the house of every candidate for Christian
baptism, viz., 1. Could an open renunciation of idol-worship, although
the idols remained in the house out of compliance with the
superstitious fears of relatives, be deemed a sufficient test
of Christian sincerity t
2. How far was retaining the ancestral tablets permissi-
ble, as mere tokens of respect for the departed dead, with-
out any worship being offered ]
In regard to the first question, it was the unanimous
opinion of the missionaries, that wherever the convert had
authority in a household, it must be made a sine qu& won
that idol-worship not only be renounced, but that the em-
blems of idolatry be destroyed or expelled from the house. One of the two old men who were about to receive bap-
tism, although the head of a family, was virtually destitute of
his proper authority, from the wickedness of his adopted son,
and the assumption of his sister-in-law and other relatives.
He had, therefore, decided on leaving the house which they
occupied in common, and removing, with his wife and chil-
dren, to another house, where he would have the power
of abolishing idols. This was deemed sufficient. In regard to the second question there was more difficul-
ty, although on this, also, there was unanimity of opinion,








410 REASONS FOR PROHIBITING THE TABLETS. who subsequently arrived from Rome, exposed the flagrant
inconsistency of amalgamating Paganism with Christianity.
The flame of discord raged so fiercely for nearly a century,
between the rival sects of Popish missionaries in China,
that successive legates were sent from Rome to allay their
feuds, and mediate between the conflicting parties. One
Pope reversed the decrees of his predecessor, and his
bulls were again, in turn, stultified by his successor. At last
the influence of the Jesuits at the Papal court failed to
avert the unfavorable decision of the Pontiff. They now
excited the emperor Kang-he to resent the supposed inter-
ference of the Pope with his own imperial authority in the
government of China. The Papal legate was insulted and
imprisoned. The Jesuits were his appointed keepers at
Macao; and as long as the name of Cardinal de Tournon
stands on the page of history, so long will the unparalleled
dissensions of the Romish missionaries in China belie the
pretensions and expose the theory of a visible unity of the uni-
versal church centring in a sovereign Pontiff enthroned on
the Seven Hills. Kang-he's successor, Yung-ching, deemed
it expedient to terminate these dissensions by banishing all
the sects of Romanist missionaries alike. Thus, after nearly
a century of religious feuds, they were expelled from the
scenes of their former influence and power; and the native
flocks of Roman Catholic converts have since been sus-
tained by European missionaries entering the country in
disguise. The propriety of permitting the retention of ancestral
tablets, as mere memorials of the dead, was, on this occa-
sion, decided against, for the following reasons:1. Even among the old Romish missionaries only the
Jesuits would allow the worship of the tablets to be retain-
ed as a mere civil rite. 2. The Chinese pay to the tablet more reverence and
worship than to the idol. 3. Its retention would open a door for the too easy ad-


412 TOPICS CvP MISSIONARY ADDRESSES. of the proceedings on the occasion of this evening's family
service. After a short address, the missionary who con-
ducted the meeting requested a youth, named Ek-ha, a ser-
vant in his house, to explain the subjects which he had heard
in a sermon at nine a.m. In reply, he proceeded to give an
analysis of the discourse, which was in form, and often in
words, strictly accurate. The text was, "Behold the Lamb of God, which taketh away the sins of the world." He
said that the preacher's address referred—I. To the reasons
why our Savior is called a lamb: 1. On account of his
meekness and submission; 2. On account of his purity; and,
3. On account of his becoming a ransom for sin, more par-
ticularly stating the method of the Old Testament sacrifices
for sin, all of which had reference to the one great sacrifice
of Jesus on the cross. He said that the preacher advert-
ed—II. To the duty of mankind in beholding the Lamb of
God. This was illustrated by the figure of a feast, with a
table spread out and bountifully provided with food. The
guests are invited to come; they look, but this does not sat-
isfy, they must partake. So Christ must be received by
faith; He must not only be looked upon, but be received
into the heart, and believed on to the salvation of the soul.
This was stated with much readiness and ease of manner. The others afterward volunteered their simple explana-
tion of what they had heard, evidently interested in the
subject, and sometimes correcting each other without the
slightest embarrassment. Chan-ha, an adult servant, gave
an account of a sermon which he had heard at 10 a.m., on
the subject of regeneration, founded on the coming of Nico-
demus to Jesus by night. Ching-han, also, a medical stu-
dent, explained his recollections of the same sermon; each
of them alternating their description of the doctrines which
they had heard. They stated that the condition of the soul
before conversion was that of death; and that the change
of the soul on its conversion resembled that of a new birth.
They then referred to the illustrations of the preacher


414 PERSECUTION OF A RELIGIOUS INQUIRER. by the ministers to lay his troubles before his Heavenly
Father; but he continued to dwell on the consequences to
himself, as well as to his mother and his wife, of disobe-
dience to his uncle's commands. He was much excited,
but gradually grew calm under the kind advice and solace
which he received. He said that he had hoped sometimes
that he loved Jesus: he often prayed to Him; but he felt
that he was not prepared for heaven, because he had not
received the "new heart." A suitable prayer closed the meeting, the Chinese all
kneeling. 


416 REVISED TRANSLATION OF HOLY SCRIPTURES. ent with their Chinese teachers, one of whom was a literary
graduate. A few old men from among the regular attend-
ants on divine worship were also generally present, and
sometimes entered into conversation when any topics of
discussion arose. After prayer for the help of the Holy
Spirit on the work of making known the word of God in
the Chinese tongue, the work of revision commenced at
1 Cor., iii., 5, about twelve verses being accomplished on
each day. The original Greek text was first consulted,
and rendered into its close and literal meaning. Med-
hurst's Chinese version was then read aloud; and, being
considered, on the whole, as the best of the previous trans-
lations, was made the groundwork of the new undertak-
ing. Reference was afterward made to Morrison's Chi-
nese version, and occasionally, also, to that of GutzlafT,
both versions being read aloud when there was any im-
portant variation. The missionaries, after discussing the
passage among themselves, and conveying orally the mean-
ing of the sacred text to the Chinese teachers, proceeded to
receive the opinion of the latter on its idiomatic expression
in the written language. On such occasions it was some-
times painful to me to witness the mirth and levity with
which Morrison's renderings were criticised by the Chi-
nese, the most ridiculous misconceptions being conveyed
to their minds by the literal and unidiomatic character of
that version. Medhurst's version appeared to be a more
free translation than that of Morrison, being sometimes
paraphrastic, but generally idiomatic. It was esteemed
by the natives present as greatly superior in its style of
Chinese composition to the other versions extant. Gutz-
laff's version was considered an approximation to that of
Medhurst, on which it was intended, however, to be an
improvement, by being more literal. The teachers gener-
ally shook their heads as the last two versions were read,
and appeared almost invariably to prefer that of Medhurst,
in which, however, some emendations and corrections were 


CHAPTER XXXIII. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF AMOY. Early Intercourse with Europe—Commercial Enterprise of the People-
Chinese Emigrants—Topography of the City and Island—The " White
Stag Hill"—Boundary Regulations—A Roman Catholic Village—Another
explanatory Edict of religious Toleration—Attempts at Concealment by
the Mandarins—Local Prizes for literary Merit—Local Dialect—Moral
Degradation of the People—Missionary Aspect of Amoy. The city of Hea-mun, or, as it is commonly called by for-
eigners, from a corruption of the final nasal sound of the
local dialect, Amoy, is situated in latitude N. 24° 32', and in
longitude 118° 6' E. Even under the old system of inter-
course with China, Amoy was better known to Europeans
than most cities on the coast. This circumstance arose part-
ly from the attempt made in former times, by the East India
Company, to open a trade with the people; but principally
from the enterprising spirit of the people themselves, which
led them to settle, for the purposes of commerce, in the va-
rious countries and islands bordering on the China Sea.
At so early a period as a.d. 1676, a ship was dispatched
from England to Amoy, with the object of establishing a
factory. This attempt was successful; but the trade was
afterward interrupted by the civil wars which raged in
China. In 1680 the Tartars expelled the Chinese from
Amoy, and destroyed the factory of the company. In
1784 the Tartar general, who commanded the district,
permitted the factory to be reestablished. In the following
year the company's residents at Amoy declared, in an offi-
cial report, that, "having had five months' experience of
the nature and quality of these people, they could charac-
terize them no otherwise than as devils in men's shapes;"


424
COMMERCIAL ENTERPRISE.
and they further stated, "that to remain exposed to the ra-
paciousness of the avaricious governors was considered as
more detrimental than the trade would be beneficial."*
The factory was, however, continued, till an imperial edict,
which limited the foreign trade to Canton, compelled the
company's officers to withdraw. The commercial enterprise of the people is to be seen in
the fact that Amoy, though possessing only an estimated
population of about 150,000, has three times as large a
number of trading-junks as the important capital of the
province itself. The people emigrate in large numbers to
Borneo, Siam, Singapore, Malacca, Batavia, Samarang,
and other places in Java; to which parts they resort in the
hope of realizing fortunes by commerce, and returning to
enjoy the fruits of their industry in their native land. The
few who return are generally poor, and excessively vitiated
in morals. Their turbulent conduct is often a source of
difficulty to the local government; and, as subjects of mis-
sionary instruction, they have been generally found to be
far less hopeful than those who have never emigrated. A
considerable trade exists between Amoy and the island of
Formosa, from which junks arrive with cargoes of rice,
sugar, oil, and groundnuts. From Shanghai and Ningpo
there is an import trade of cotton, vermicelli, furs, and felt-
caps. From Foo-chow the coasting-junks bring spars and
oranges. Canton supplies cloth, camlet, shoes, and fine
manufactures. From the Straits of Malacca there is a
large importation of grain, beche-le-mer, Brazil-wood, and
a kind of hard wood for making masts and anchors. In re-
turn for these articles, the people of Amoy export large
quantities of tea, bricks, shoes, umbrellas, crockery-ware,
iron utensils, and, lastly, idols. During the past year five
European or American vessels have left Amoy with Chi-
nese emigrants, as passengers to the Straits of Malacca.
In each vessel there were between one and two hundred
* Milbum's Oriental Commerce. London, 1813.


TOPOGRAPHY.
425
natives, each of whom paid a fare of ten or twelve dollars.
They are generally huddled together on the deck, and, un-
less the vessel makes a rapid passage, have to suffer great
privations. The difficulty of obtaining a livelihood renders
the people willing thus to venture on the unknown trials of
foreign lands. The poor, who thus emigrate to other coun-
tries, generally find that their hopes are disappointed, and
are stated, by the missionaries in those parts, to be the
most degraded part of the population. A partial exception
exists at Batavia, where there are several wealthy Chinese,
two or three of whom ride in fine carriages, after European
style. The island of Amoy extends about twelve miles in length
and ten in breadth. It contains one hundred and thirty-six
villages and hamlets, the population of the whole island
amounting to about 400,000, less than one half of whom
are included in the city. Its geological formation consists
of one continued ridge of black rocks, which, when recently
broken, present a light-gray color; but after being exposed
for some time to the atmosphere and rains, resume their
original black appearance. Like a stupendous citadel of
natural formation, a range of towering cliffs, varying in
height, extends over the whole island, leaving, for the work
of tillage, portions of low, undulating ground, between
their base and the sea. On the top of the ridge there are
two or three miles of highly-cultivated table-land. In the
northern and eastern parts of the island a few miles of level
sandy soil intervene between the hills and the beach, and
yield a supply of rice, wheat, and vegetables. The city of Amoy is built in a long, straggling form, and
occupies a promontory, so as to be surrounded on three
sides by the sea. The city proper, or citadel, is of small
extent, being surrounded by a wall less than a mile in cir-
cuit, through which there are four gates leading into the
outer city. Very little commerce is transacted within the
city proper, the te-tok's palace and gardens occupying a
N N*


426
TEMPLES.
considerable space, and abutting on the wall, so as to in-
terrupt the visitor in his walk around the citadel. The
streets of Amoy are very narrow and dirty, and the houses,
with few exceptions, are of the poorest description. A few
buildings with decent exterior occasionally relieve the gen-
eral appearance of poverty. Among the temples there are some remarkable build-
ings. The collection of temples situated on the hill com-
monly called the "White Stag Hill" deserves particular
mention. They consist of a cluster of buildings perched
on overhanging rocks, and present, from the summit, a
most romantic view of the city and its busy population, at
the distance of a mile. Some of the inscriptions on the
temple walls, in this beautiful retreat, are of more than
ordinary interest. A tablet, inscribed with the sentence,
"The practice of virtue is the principal thing," is soon
after succeeded by another, containing the announcement,
"If men will pray to heaven's supreme Ruler, there will
ensue peace, rest, and happiness." Another interesting temple lies close to the foot of the
hills, in the higher part of the long plain on the southern
beach. Being situated only half a mile above the long line
of fortifications forming the sea-battery, this temple was ex-
posed to much danger from the fire of the British vessels
of war. One large cannon-ball is in the possession of the
priests, being preserved and exhibited to the visitor as a
proof of the sanctity and power of the idol. The walls of
the building were perforated, and other serious damage
was inflicted by the ball, which, however, they assert, was
miraculously arrested in its career of destruction, so as to
stop at the foot of the idol. The city contains but few individuals of great wealth,
notwithstanding the commerce of the place. This is ac-
counted for by the fact that Amoy is only of small importance as a city, being included in the boundaries of Tung-
hwa heen, on the mainland, one of the districts in the de-


BOUNDARY REGULATIONS. 427 partment of Chwan-chew foo. Amoy is a mere outport to
the more important cities of Chang-chew and Chwan-chew,
in which the native merchants, who have been enriched by
successful commerce, live in the enjoyment of the refine-
ments and luxury of wealth. Amoy bears the same rela-
tion to Chang-chew, which Shanghai bears to Soo-chow;
and the Chinese diplomatists would gladly have limited the
whole proceedings of foreign commerce to cities of this
order, so as to exclude Europeans from the real abodes of
wealth and manufacturing industry. This may account for
the strong objections which are said to have been urged by
the Chinese plenipotentiaries, against the opening of Foo-
chow, the capital of the province, to the trade of the
British. The boundaries beyond which foreigners are prevented
from extending their visits have been fixed by arrange-
ments with the acting consuls, at the distance of a "day's
journey." On this term a very strict construction has been
placed, so as to prohibit any foreigners from going more
than halfa-day's journey from the city, and to compel their
return to Amoy before sunset. As the day is interpreted
as commencing with sunrise and ending at sunset, and as a
visit in a boat to the opposite mainland would ordinarily
consume the greater part of a forenoon, it will be seen that
this regulation virtually limits foreigners to the island of
Amoy, even in the villages of which they are not allowed
to pass a night, but are under the necessity of returning
before sunset to the city. The Roman Catholics are numerous in some districts of
the neighboring mainland. The French embassador and suite, during their recent
visit to Amoy, visited a village about forty miles distant, in
which nearly the whole population were Roman Catholics.
His excellency afterward spoke of his heart being kindled
with the fire of religious enthusiasm, as he beheld the joy-
ous spectacle of the inhabitants coming forth with crosses


428
ROMAN CATHOLIC VILLAGE.
and medals hanging on their bosoms. About 500 persons
in this village, and the same number in some neighboring
villages, professed Christianity. The priest, a Spaniard,
named Francisco Zea, openly performed his ministrations
among them, attired in Chinese costume. At the period
of the visit of the French, a chapel, estimated to cost 1800
dollars, was advancing toward a state of completion. It
was built of brick, partly in European and partly in Chi-
nese style, and was ninety feet in length by forty in breadth.
The interior was adorned by two rows of pillars, and the
arrangements of the altar were adapted to the strictest
models of Popish architecture. The French plenipoten-
tiary contributed a sum of money toward its erection. The
perfect notoriety, among the mandarins, of the priest's res-
idence and employments was established beyond a doubt. During the period of my residence at Amoy, the intelli-
gence arrived of another explanatory edict of religious tol-
eration having been issued by the Chinese government.
In this document a full recognition was contained of the
equal privileges of foreigners of all countries; and free tol-
eration was conferred on all the religions of western na-
tions, without partiality or distinction. The second edict,
which apparently limited the toleration of the "religion of
the Lord of Heaven" to the professors of the Roman Cath-
olic religion, had a short time previously been made a sub-
ject of diplomatic correspondence with Ke-Ying by the
British governor of Hong Kong; who, with commendable
decision, extorted from the former a recognition of the
equal toleration of the Protestant and Roman Catholic reli-
gions. A promise was made that this public document
should be extensively circulated by the Chinese authorities
among the people at each of the five consular ports. Al-
though some weeks had elapsed, for a time only one copy
of the document was discovered at Amoy. After a few
days, however, a second copy was also observed on some
remote suburban wall; while at the usual places for pla-


432
GENERAL MORAL EFFECTS. in the extraordinary friendliness of the people, the marked
attentions and favor of the authorities, and the popularity
and moral influence acquired by the missionaries. Much
of this is doubtless to be ascribed to the longer period of
time during which missionaries have been resident in Amoy,
and to the daily intercourse held with all classes of the
people for the purpose of oral instruction, without the dis-
tracting care of educational institutions. Although matters
are progressing toward the same favorable result at the
other stations, yet, at the present time, we look in vain
elsewhere in China for those decisive indications, which
have been enumerated, of a good impression already pro-
duced on the native community. May the fertilizing showers of the Divine blessing de-
scend on the seed thus sown in hope; and may the further
and more satisfactory results of real conversion of heart to
the Gospel speedily follow in the track of the general moral
effects already produced!


434
VOYAGE TO HONG KONG.
the consequences of slighting the message of the Gospel,
and of the possibility of all the missionaries being removed
from among them, as a punishment of their spiritual indif-
ference. Another shaking of hands took place as I left the
building, some of my more intimate acquaintances asking
at what hour on the next morning I expected to take my
departure, and expressing their wish to do me the honor
of accompanying me a little distance on my way. Accordingly, early the next morning six teachers and
neighbors came to the house, waiting for my departure.
They accompanied me to the landing-place, where, on get-
ting into my boat, I bade them adieu. They would, how-
ever, insist on hiring a boat, and rowing for two miles, a
little astern of my boat, to the outer harbor, till we arrived
alongside the man-of-war in which I was to embark. Here,
as I ascended the gangway, my Chinese friends exchanged
with me a last farewell by waving their hands, and were
soon on their way back through the harbor to Amoy.
Shortly after we were proceeding on the voyage to Hong
Kong, and in a few hours were out of sight of localities,
the remembrance of which will ever be endeared to my
mind by the kind friendship of all the missionary brethren,
and the incidents of my stay of more than six weeks. During the first two days of our voyage we experienced
light head winds, and on the third day we had a strong
contrary breeze from the southeast. On the fourth day
there sprung up a fresh breeze from the northeast, before
which we sailed at a rapid rate. In the afternoon we were
already off Pedra Branca, and finding that we were unable
to reach the entrance among the islands before sunset, wc
were forced to heave to for the night, as there was no
moon, the wind increasing to a gale. At daybreak on Friday, Feb. 27th, we found that we had drifted a few miles
to the leeward of the island of Hong Kong. After an hour's
beating to windward, we passed through the Limoon pass-
age on the east, and soon came to anchor in Victoria harbor


VISIT TO CANTON.
During the course of the following month of March I paid a visit to Canton, for the purpose of ascertaining the
state of popular feeling, and the progress of the missionary
work since my visit about eleven months previously. In
the intervening period of time a few more missionaries had
removed from Hong Kong to Canton. Among these was
the Rev. Dr. Bridgman, a missionary of considerable expe-
rience, who had formerly resided for ten years at Canton.
The Missionary Hospital had become more fully than ever
identified with the missionary cause; and a few of the mis-
sionaries were assisted by Leang Afa in regularly holding
a Sabbath service among the patients, of whom generally
one hundred assembled for the purpose. All other public
services, however, were now at an end, except at the mis-
sionaries' own residences. The writer could have wished that, on his last visit to
this populous city, he had been permitted to cherish a more
favorable opinion of the spirit of the populace, and the ex-
tent of missionary openings at Canton. Candor, however,
compels him to express how wide and marked is the differ-
ence between the friendly and peaceable demeanor of the
people in the more northernly cities, and the arrogant tur-
bulence of spirit which still forms the distinguishing charac-
teristic of the Canton mob. He calls to mind the happy
period of free and unrestrained intercourse which he held
with all classes of native society in other parts of China, and
the fair measure of personal respect which was there ex-
tended to missionary laborers, among rulers and people,
among rich and poor, in the heart of crowded cities, and in
the retirement of distant villages. And he can not avoid
contrasting the enlarged measure of freedom possessed by
foreigners in those other ports, with the narrow limits of a
few streets in an inconsiderable suburb, within which for-
eigners are virtually imprisoned as a despised and insulted
portion of the community at Canton. The time of my last visit was one of great popular ex


438 POLITICAL DANGERS OF CHINA. Such signs of the insurrectionary state of the people will
make it apparent to every mind that, in the event of another
collision with China, the danger arises of a war, not, as in
the last conflict, with her rulers, but with her people, the
important consequences of which are removed beyond the
limits of human foresight. The peaceful character of the
people in other parts of China, and the generally percepti-
ble desire of the Chinese authorities to preserve order and
protect strangers, afford a guaranty for the continuance
of pacific relations. Peace, however, may at any moment
be disturbed by some local outrage at Canton, followed, on
the part of the British government, by demands of repara-
tion and indemnity, to which the Chinese government may
be unable or unwilling, in the state of the popular mind, to
concede. Many are disposed to regard the anomalous state of af-
fairs, which has been described, as a mark of decay, and
the presage of ruin to the power of the present dynasty, if
not to the stability of the empire itself. But it is important
that such opinions should be modified by the reflection that
insurrections and turmoils have been frequent in every
reign, and that the populace at Canton have been for cen-
turies in a continual state of partial rebellion. Amid these
dangers from within, the safety of China depends on her
avoiding perils from without. Her principal danger is that
of another foreign collision, fomented alike by the blind ar-
rogance of the anti-European party at Peking and the ex-
cited feelings of the mob at Canton. Her real interests lie
in the adoption of a liberal policy toward "outward na-
tions," in the accommodation of her government to the new
emergency which has been created, and in the residence of
foreign embassadors at Peking. Unless she thus remodel
her system of policy, and abandon her isolated position
among the kingdoms of the earth, she must remain station-
ary in knowledge, in arts, in power, in wealth, and in all
the more substantial blessings of a progressive civilization.





446
GENERAL REFLECTIONS.
each side of the island. The more western parts of the
town are occupied by Chinese streets and bazars, which
have been raised with wonderful rapidity, and contain a
busy and enterprising portion of the community. The
view from some of the lesser eminences is imposing and
picturesque, especially from the site of the Morrison Edu-
cation Society's School, looking down upon every form and
variety of foreign and native craft in the splendid harbor,
and bounded, in the distance, by the towering ridges of
the opposite coast. The immigration of Chinese settlers
has proceeded with proportionable activity, the native pop-
ulation of the island having been already nearly trebled. While contemplating this rapidly-formed colony, the cir-
cumstances under which it has been gained, and its proba-
ble influence on the future destinies of a race amounting to
one third of the estimated population of our planet, many
novel considerations obtrude themselves on the mind of a
British Christian. Believing that his country has been
honored by God as the chosen instrument for diffusing the
pure light of Protestant Christianity through the world,
and that the permanency of her laws, institutions, and em-
pire is closely connected with the diffusion of evangelical
truth, a British missionary feels jealous for the faithfulness
of his country to her high vocation, and "rejoices with
trembling" at the extension of her colonial empire. King-
doms rise and fall, each fulfilling its appointed measure of
instrumentality in accomplishing the divine purposes for
the salvation of mankind. These reflections are peculiarly
appropriate to the present condition of this new British
settlement. From its political and commercial bearings
the writer purposely abstains, except as they indirectly af-
fect the social state of the native population, now brought
under the direct influence of British law, and the benevo-
lent attempt to introduce among them the blessings of
Christianity. The permanency of occupation of Hong
Kong—its adaptation to the important ends which it was


CLIMATE.
447
intended to promote—the measure of its influence on the
continuance of peace—and, above all, the real amount of
advantage which it secures to the missionary of the Cross
in his all-important work—are considerations full of in-
tense and affecting interest at this critical juncture. The
desires and the wishes of a Christian patriot naturally in-
cline to Chusan, as that spot which, above all others,
would have abundantly secured the advantages of climate,
of situation, of independence, and of natural resources, of
which Hong Kong is confessedly destitute. Although every friend of the missionary cause will be
disposed fairly to appreciate the advantages of a British
settlement like Hong Kong, and the superior prospects of
permanency which it affords, yet it must be confessed that,
were our hopes limited to this spot, it would be a debata-
ble question whether China had been in the least degree
opened to the diffusion of Christianity. While such an
open entrance lies before us in the neighborhood of the
consular cities along the coast of China—more than suffi-
cient to employ the energies of all the missionaries which
the churches of Britain and America are likely to send—it
would be improper to assign to a contracted sphere of
labor, like Hong Kong, one iota more than its proportion
of missionary labor. There are other considerations which
stamp Hong Kong with an unpromising and uninviting
missionary character. On the disadvantage of climate the author is indisposed
to dwell, because the comparative salubrity of the last
summer (1845) has been a happy exception to the gener-
ality of such seasons at Hong Kong; and because, also,
the salubrity or insalubrity of a locality is a matter of sec-
ondary consideration in those cases in which there is any
prospect of a proportionate amount of usefulness. Only a
more lengthened experience of the climate can, however,
fully divest the mind of serious apprehensions on this
point, which the previous mortality on the island has not


448
CHINESE POPULATION".
unreasonably excited. The geological character of the
island—the obstacles to free ventilation caused by the sur-
rounding hills—the unhealthy evaporations produced by
the powerful heat of the sun on the saturated soil after the
rains—and the glaring heat reflected from the burning
mountain-sides in the hot season—present physical causes
sufficient to account for the existence of a very insalu-
brious climate. Doubtless a part of the previous mortality
had been caused by noxious exhalations from the large
surface of new soil dug up for building-sites, by insuffi-
cient shelter from the elements, and by excesses too pow-
erful for the European constitution to bear in an untried
climate. Although the writer's own opinion has been con-
siderably modified as to the extent of the insalubrity of
Hong Kong, he yet retains his fears that few European
constitutions will be found able to bear for many consecu-
tive years in its debilitating climate the rigorous study and
physical exertion necessary for missionary usefulness in
China. The moral and social character of the Chinese population
at Hong Kong presents a disadvantage of a very different
kind. While in the northern cities on the mainland of
China daily intercourse may be held without restraint with
the more respectable classes of native society, and a for-
eigner every where meets an intelligent and friendly popu-
lation, at Hong Kong, on the other hand, missionaries may
labor for years without being brought into personal com-
munication with any Chinese, except such as are, generally
speaking, of the lowest character, and unlikely to exert a
moral influence on their fellow-countrymen. The lowest
dregs of native society flock to the British settlement, in
the hope of gain or plunder. Although a few of the better
classes of shopkeepers are beginning to settle in the colony,
the great majority of the new-comers are of the lowest con-
dition and character. The principal part of the Chinese
population in the town consists of servants, coolies, stone-


450
DIVERSITY OF DIALECTS.
be allowed to visit Hong Kong except from the five free
ports, and that even these must be provided with a pass-
port from the Chinese authorities. It is also agreed that
British officers at Hong Kong shall examine every passport
so presented, and forward a monthly account or report to
the Chinese superintendent of customs at Canton, of the
native vessels arriving at Hong Kong, together with the
name of the proprietor or captain, the nature of the cargo,
&c, &c. In the case of any vessel entering the port of
Hong Kong, not thus provided with a pass, the British
authorities have bound themselves to arrest the crew, and
send them for condign punishment to the Chinese authori-
ties on the mainland. With such a stipulation as this, and
the natural prejudices of the Chinese against Hong Kong,
it will easily be seen how little hope we are permitted to
entertain of the probable moral and social improvement of
the colony. The Chinese who come to Hong Kong are generally un-
married men, or leave their wives and families on the main-
land, returning with their savings to their homes after a few
months' labor. The original population of the island, 7500,
had been increased by an accession, which raised the en-
tire number to 19,000 Chinese, according to a census taken
in 1844, three years after its formal cession to the British
by treaty. These are nearly all illiterate, unable to read,
and consequently shut out from an important channel of
religious instruction. They form a class, above all others,
needing the restraining, sanctifying power of the Gospel;
but the most opposite to that quiet, orderly, and settled
class of people who are to be met with in the four north-
ern ports, and whose character affords the fairest prospects
of missionary success. Another difficulty, which impresses on Hong Kong a
peculiar ineligibility as a missionary station, is the great
diversity of dialects which prevails among its limited popu-
lation of 19,000 Chinese, and which is necessarily produced


EUROPEAN INFLUENCES.
451
by the heterogeneous elements of which it is composed.
There are three principal dialects in the island, the speaker
of one of which would be unintelligible to the speaker of
another. Under these there are other subdivisions of the
local dialect, more or less distinct, but presenting some fea-
tures of resemblance. There is the Hok-ha dialect, spoken
by 3500 settlers from the northeast of the Canton province.
The Pun-te, or dialect of the place and neighborhood, is
also subdivided into the Sin-On, spoken by the original
inhabitants and the settlers from Macao; the Pwan-yu,
spoken by the settlers from Whampoa; and the Nan-hoi.
There are also the Hak-lo dialect from Fokeen, and some
other varieties, each of them spoken by a few hundreds or
tens of persons. In such a place, a student of the Chinese
language would be placed under great disadvantages. Not
only would a missionary be hindered in his usefulness by
the perplexing variety of dialects, but it would be next to
impossible for a foreign student of ordinary talent, who had
not previously studied the language in some other part, ever
to attain a fluent and correct pronunciation of any dialect
in Hong Kong. Two other serious disadvantages to Hong Kong, how-
ever, are the frequent spectacle of European irreligion, and
the invidious regulations of police, both of which are likely
to exert an unfavorable influence on the future evangeliza-
tion of the Chinese. It is with unfeigned regret and reluct-
ance that the author states that scenes frequently occur in the public streets, and in the interior of houses, which are
calculated to place the countrymen of missionaries in an un-
favorable aspect before the native mind. The opinion is
sincerely held and deliberately expressed, that, unless pres-
ent tendencies are happily obviated, the settlement is more
likely to prove a detriment than a blessing. The advan-
tages, in point of permanency, which it holds out above the
consular cities on the mainland, are immeasurably out-
weighed by the injurious point of view in which a profess-


452
OPIUM-FARM.
edly Christian nation stands forth to the view of the Chi-
nese people. Sabbath desecration is very prevalent. The
clinking of hammers from the military buildings, and the
noise of masons and stone-cutters engaged in the public
works, are sounds with which the congregation, worshiping
in the temporary building used as the colonial church, have
long been familiarized. The Chinese also are treated as a degraded race of peo-
ple. They are not permitted to go out into the public
streets after a certain hour in the evening without a lantern,
and a written note from their European employer, to se-
cure them from the danger of apprehension and imprison-
ment till the morning. According to a local gazette, the
official organ of the government, the most abandoned class-
es of Chinese, who form a subject of odious traffic to Chi-
nese speculators, were, at least for a time, under the regu-
lar superintendence of local officers, and contributed each a
monthly sum as payment toward the expenses of this con-
trol. The recollection of the reader is recalled also to the
case of A-quei, the only wealthy Chinese on the island, who
now, by the rights which he has acquired as the purchaser
of the opium-farm, wields an instrument of oppressive ex-
action and extortion over the rest of the Chinese settlers.
At one period he was in the habit of visiting the native
boats and private houses, in order to seize every ball of
opium suspected of being sold without his license. Accom-
panied for that purpose by native or by Indian police, he
exercised an inquisitorial power for enforcing his monopoly
over the timid Chinese, sufficient to check and discourage
respectable natives from settling at Hong Kong. Even in
a commercial point of view it is the opinion of the best
judges in such a matter that Hong Kong is never likely to
realize a small part of the expectations cherished on its first
acquisition. Even the few Chinese who profess Christianity, or are
well affected to the missionaries, are not exempted from the 


MORRISON EDUCATION SOCIETY. 455 mornings are devoted to English studies, and the after-
noons are spent in Chinese studies with a native teacher.
The course of study embraces the usual branches of a
thorough English education, viz., reading, spelling, writing,
composition, arithmetic, geography, history, algebra, and
geometry. The author has, on different occasions, heard
the senior pupils demonstrate some of the most difficult
propositions in Euclid with the utmost precision, amid fre-
quent cross-questioning. It was a pleasing sight to mingle
in the evening devotions of the missionary family, and to
behold the deep and affectionate attention with which this
interesting body of youths listened to the Scripture exposi-
tions of their preceptor, so well seconded by the tender
kindness and moral influence of his wife. It was no less
pleasant than affecting to listen to the hymns, in which they
are taught to sing the praises of the Redeemer of mankind.
Some of the elder boys have for some time evinced a con-
sistent Christian deportment; and one of them, A-shing, a
very sensible lad, has professed his desire to devote himself
to the service of God among his countrymen. Being still under the power of their heathen parents on the mainland,
none of them have yet been baptized. Some of their En-
glish compositions indicate great talent and good common
sense, and prove the capacity of the Chinese mind for gaining knowledge. Within a hundred yards of the Morrison Education So-
ciety's School, and on the same conspicuous elevation of
site, is the Medical Missionary Hospital, presided over by
Dr. Hobson, a zealous medical missionary of the London
Missionary Society, who was obliged to return to England
on the occasion of the illness of his wife, who died as they
arrived in sight of the British shore. Dr. Hobson is about
to return to Hong Kong in the course of a few months. The only remaining missionary institution is a Chinese
school belonging to the London Missionary Society, and
formerly conducted at Malacca under the title of the " An-


EDUCATIONAL FLANS.
457
ors of a corrupted form of Christianity, vigorously pouring
their emissaries into the breach opened into the heart of
this heathen continent, what have we to contrast in the
present operations of Protestant churches, and especially
of our own church? While public buildings of almost pal-
ace-like structure have been raised at a munificent outlay
of expenditure, no signs of the building of a suitable edifice
for the public worship of God according to the forms and
ritual of the church of England meet the eye in any direc-
tion. Hospitals, forts, batteries, barracks, a jail, and even
a Mohammedan mosque, already stand as speaking monu-
ments of the priority in the scale of importance of secular
undertakings over religious duties. One solitary missiona-
ry at Shanghai is the only representative of the missionary
zeal of the church of England. The writer leaves China
with the melancholy reflection that this is all that can be
truly deemed missionary work among the Chinese, either
in present operation or in immediate prospect, in which we
can claim any part. The Rev. Vincent Stanton, the colonial chaplain, has
commenced the building of a school for Chinese boys; but
as the necessary engagements of his charge in visiting the
sick in the hospitals, and fulfilling the more public duties
of his situation, require more than all the energy and
strength possessed both by himself and his coadjutor, the
military chaplain, the active personal duties of tuition must
devolve on some laborer unconnected with any other em-
ployment than that of an exclusively missionary character. For ordinary Chinese schools, the consular cities on the
coast of China afford as many facilities as Hong Kong it-
self. For missionary seminaries of a higher order, in a
future and more advanced stage of our missions, a British
colony may possibly present superior advantages. Such
seminaries or colleges, however, do not belong to the first
stages of missionary work, but are the fruits of a more
matured state, when a country has advanced beyond the
Qq


460 PRINTING ESTABLISHMENTS. carefully educated and trained, with a view to personal
dedication to the work of evangelizing their countrymen,
might, on the completion of the necessary course of instruc-
tion, return to the missionaries on the continent of China,
where, by the Divine blessing on the means employed in
their preparation, they might become valuable and efficient
aids to the European missionaries. Printing establishments are an unnecessary expense to
any missionary society just entering on a mission in China. Except for the purpose of ephemeral publication, and the
intermixture of English type with Chinese, no advantage is
gained by a European printing-press. When a missionary
at any of the consular cities has composed a tract, he has
merely to go into a neighboring street and call to his aid
the services of a block-cutter, who, unless the tract is of
very bulky dimensions, can in a few days produce a wood-
en block, from which an edition of several thousand copies
can be expeditiously produced. A Chinese tract is now
before me, composed by the Rev. J. Stronach, of Amoy,
which contains about 2000 characters, and occupies the or-
dinary length of an eight-page English tract. The style
of the characters and the general appearance of the tract
are beautifully adapted to the Chinese eye and taste. The
block-cutter was paid at the rate of three copper cash for
each character. The expense of printing each copy, in-
cluding paper, ink, and stitching, amounted to four cash.
Thus, the cost of printing, paper, and ink, for an edition of
6000 copies, amounted to 24,000 cash; and the addition
of the original price of the wooden block, 6000 cash, raised
the entire cost of the edition to 30,000 cash, i. e., 5 cash
each copy. About 25 cash are equal to one penny; so
that the whole edition of 6000 copies cost about five gui-
neas, and each copy less than a farthing. The disadvantage
of a European printing-press is, that the salary of printer
and assistants, and the rent of premises, demand continual
payment, even although there may be no continued de-


462 QUALIFICATIONS OF MISSIONARY LABORERS. with increasing clearness; and the messenger of Christ, no
longer approaching with timid steps to the confines of this
heathen empire, may then boldly advance to its central re-
gions; and there, mingling the accents of prayer with the
notes of thanksgiving, proclaim God's message of redeem-
ing mercy to a fallen world. Sufficient will have been gathered to lead the reader to
form an estimate of the peculiar qualifications needful in
the missionary laborers who are to enter on this field.
Without presuming to limit the Divine blessing to any class
of laborers, it must, nevertheless, be borne in mind, that the
obvious qualifications to constitute a really efficient mission-
ary among the Chinese are of no common or secondary
order. Activity of body, energy of mind, and practical
judgment are required for the study of a difficult language,
and for keepiug up a constant intercourse with the people,
for the purpose of acquiring the spoken dialect, of dis-
arming their prejudices, of winning their respect, and of
exciting their attention to the all-important message of the
Gospel. An ability to grapple with the subtilties of an
atheistic philosophy; a willingness to mingle with the low-
est classes of the population; frequent visits to their houses,
their temples, and in the surrounding country; a ready ac-
cessibility to natives willing to visit the missionary at his
own house, require a more than ordinary combination of
physical and mental powers, under the debilitating influence
of a new and untried climate. To these natural qualifica-
tions must be added a large and powerful measure of the
spirit of Christ, such as is necessary for a missionary labor-
er, not only in China, but in every heathen land. To
behold the empire of sin holding universal dominion around
him, and yet not be contaminated by the contagion; to be
familiarized with the spectacle of idolatry, and yet not to
lose the tender sensibilities of compassion for the poor idol-
ater, and a holy jealousy for the honor of God; to feel
himself alone, bearing, in some cases, a solitary testimony