A 407472 EX LIBRIS WILLIAM HERBERT HOBBS 22 THE UN AN LIBRARIES . ! • 事 ​ ATTACK AND MASSACRE OF CREW OF SHIP TONQUIN BY THE SAVAGES OF THE NW.COAST N Curriers LühNY VOYAGES TO THE SOUTH SEAS, INDIAN AND PACIFIC OCEANS, CHINA SEA, NORTH-WEST COAST, FEEJEE ISLANDS, SOUTH SHETLANDS, &c. &c. WITH AN ACCOUNT OF TIJE NEW DISCOVERIES MADE IN THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE, Between the Years 1830-1837. ALSO, THE ORIGIN, AUTHORIZATION, AND PROGRESS OF THE FIRST AMERICAN NATIONAL SOUTH SEA EXPLORING EXPEDITION With Explanatory Notes relative to the Enterprise. By EDMUND FANNING, 66 AUTHOR OF FANNING'S VOYAGES." Fourth Edition. NEW-YORK: WILL I AM H. V E R M IL Y E. 1838. 12:2 Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1838, BY EDMUND FANNING, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New York. #. LUDWIG, PRINTER, 72, Vesey-street. 1 TO THE AMERICAN PEOPLE, IN TESTIMONY OF HIS HIGH ADMIRATION OF THEIR CHARACTER, AS AN ENLIGHTENED NATION, THIS VOLUME IS MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, BY THE AUTHOR. 1 1 1 1 1 1 ! 1 1 . 1 1 PREFACE. It is with great diffidence that the author presents the following work to an enlightened public ; still he is en- couraged by the fact, that a previous volume on voyages, has met with indulgence and favour at their hands. He therefore deems it but justice to a generous public to state, that he has had the experience, both in the command and directive agency of upwards of seventy voyages, to those portions of our globe which are treated of in the course of this work. He would also state, that these voyages have not only been the means of bringing large amounts of wealth into our country and her national treasury, but have also opened and paved the way to many enterprising citi- zens to engage and succeed in the same lucrative trade. The author has, to the best of his judgment, made selec- tions of the most interesting and improving narratives of the voyages in which he has been concerned ; and he flat- ters himself that the matter in these pages will not only be found entertaining, but that much information may be ga- thered relative to commercial trade, the whale and seal fish- ery, navigation, &c., and also the different seas, climates, habits and customs of the natives, lands and isles of the ocean. CONTENTS. PART I. 13 13 17 20 NARRATIVE of the voyage of the Ship Hope, from New York to the Feejee Islands, in the South Pacific Ocean, and to China, under the command of Captain Reuben Brumley, with the directive agency of the author, in the years 1806--1808..... CHAPTER 1.-Leave New-York-Departure from Sandy Hook-A Gale-Tre- mendous foaming sea-A mountainous sea breaks on board ship-Loss of stern boat-Cape De Verde Islands-Governor's conduct-Depart from St. Jago.... CHAPTER 2.-Violent squalls A water spout-Its terrific threatenings and passing roar-Shoals of whales-Cross the equinoctial line-Cape Aguillas' Bank-Gannets and other birds-A white squall-Many whales scen........ Chapter 3.-Islands of Amsterdam and St Paul's-Whales and seals-Sea scurvy– New Holland-White beach-Columns of smoke-Remarkable rock -Cape Chatham......... *CHAPTER 4.-Cape Howe-King George III. Sound–Bald Head-Newly in- vented still for obtaining fresh water from that of the ocean-Van Diemen's Land-The Mew Stone–The Feathered Tribe-Amphibious Bird--Anchor at Botany Bay-Sydney Cove-Governor's humane and honourable con- duct-Contrast between his and that of St. Jago's—Doctor O'Conner-His humane feelings and kind attention to the sick--Landing the sick-Sea scurvy -Its singularity... CHAPTER 5.-Departure from Sydney-A strange ship-Macauley's and Curtis' Islands--Sunday Island-Numerous birds and fishes Island of Tongatahoo- Van Diemen's Road-Bad anchorage-Directions in sailing among the islands-Coral reefs-A strange ship appears-Strict inquiry of the natives for white persons among them....... CHAPTER 6.-Departure from Tonga for the Feejees--Fatoa (or Turtlc) Island -Dangers of the ship among the Feejee Archipelago-Most dangerous navi- gation--Caution of the natives--Numerous groups of islands- A chief comes on board--Double canoes-King Tynahoa-Dignity of His Majesty-De- scription of his person-Lofty peaked mountain-Gorroo Chief- Boat ex- cursion.. 23 31 36 viii CONTENTS. 43 Chapter 7.--King again visits the ship-Freedom of His Majesty--A Royal present--Brisk trade-Ship surrounded by war canoes, with armed warriors- Expected battle-Caunibal war yells--The leader chief --Signal of reireat- Warriors depart--Direction Island--Dangerous situation of ibe ship-Three muntains--The Sea Wall reef--arrow passage--Rapid current-Coral reefs--Handsome young chief--Intricate navigation, danger of-Boarding- netting--Sandalwood cargo-Treaty with the King-His Majes y's trea- sury chest--Grand council--Good faith of the King--Articles of trade....... CHAPTER 8--Author's rule of trade in the prohibition of fire-arms-Natives of the Feejee Islands-Their cannibalism-Manner of obtaining sandal wood- Music to the natives in the wood-saw--Great number of the natives as the ship deparis--Affi'ction and attachment of the King to the first officer, Mr. Brown--His Majesty's parting with him--Union Massacre passage--Alarm by the sudden discovery of the ship in shoal water--Departme from Feejees, and voyage to China-Crossing Equator twice--liquatorial currents—1jscovery of Hope Island--Phillipine Islands-Their beautiful green appearance- Arrival at Canton-Sail for sweet home--Arrival at New-York...... CHAPTER 9-A list of the native names of sixty-four of the principal islands of the Archipelago of the Feejee group, with remarks......... 59 69 PART II. 71 SKETCH descriptive of the whale chase, showing the danger and daring bravery of the officers and seainen in atracking and conquering these monsters of the depp, together with the process of cutting in, &c. &c......... CHAPTER 1-Whale chase-Danger in fastening 10-Condition of the whale-- Whaler's preference to fuil grown— These most troublesome-Sounding of the whale--The signal--Break-water roar of the monster--Terrific scene- Snowy fvam of the sea-Fatai stroke--Sea of blood--I!is dying flurıy-Life extinci--Huge inanimate ma-s on the surface of the sea,Lamentable end of poor Bob--His character.... CHAPTER 2 --Cutting in the whale-Cutting gear--Manner of cutting ia--Blub- ber blankets-Mincing blubbir-Trying out oil--Whalebone--Average quan- lity to a fish........ CHAPTER 3.-Rook of the Falklands--Ils sagacious, saucy cunning-Its size and colour--Its strength and gripe of claws--Its shrewdiless in watching-Its seemingly intelligent language-Mischievous thievery-A glove chas· and failure-Superior knowledge of the bird...... 71 74 78 CONTENTS. ix PART III. 84 NARRATIVE sketch of a voyage of the ship Tonquin, under the command of the author, to the China sea, in the years 1807--1808.......... 84 CHAPTER 1–Building of the ship-Great despatch in performance-Occurrence on the wild coast of Java-A terrific savage-A white boy to roast-Fright of boy Bill Secret retreat in a bread cask-Investigation of a singular affair ..... CHAPTER 2-Ship arrives at Macoa-A speck of war-A typhoon-British squadron-Poolo Sapata and Baltimore Company ship—Raging sea-Singular effect of--Change of the monsoon—Passage up the Tygris-Commodore Pelew-His declaration-State of war, President and U. S. Consul-Un- pleasant state of affairs-Author's determination to put to sea-Chinese pilot and boat--The agreement.......... 92 CHAPTER 3—Tonquin sails from Whampoa—British fleet-Ship taken by supe- rior force-Despatch the pilot boat-Council signal displayed from the flag- ship-Release of the Tonquin-Handsome and courteous conduct of the British lieutenant-Honourable and generous proceedings of Commodore Pelew, a son worthy of his noble sire, Lord Exmouth, War state ended in peace-Ship departs from Grand Ladrone-Her arrival safe at New- York. 105 PART I V NARRATIVE sketch of the voyage of ship Tonquin to the South Pacific Ocean, Feejee Islands, and on a new route to China, whereby important discoveries were made under the command of that able voyager, Captain R, Brumley, and the directive agency of the author, in the years 1808–1809 .. 114 CHIAPTER 1.—The cause and object of the voyage-Embargo in the United States—President Madison-Permission to sail on and perform the voyage- Honourable Albert Gallatin-Tonquin eaiis from New-York--Gough's Island -Coast of New Holland-Mount Gardner-Ship anchors in King George III. Sound— The sick with sea-scurvy landed-Natives of this part of New Holland-Departure from King George III. Sound-Remarks relative to the Sound, and anchorage--Arrival at Tongatabon-Van Diemen's Road Barter-trade with the natives—Dangerous navigation of the Feejee Archi- pelago- Arrival at the Feejees-Ship visited by two young Princes--Fleet of war-canoes-Ship receives a welcome visit from King Tynahoa-The King's affectionate meeting with Mr. Brown-Ship arrives in Sandal Wood Road X CONTENTS. Chiefs bring the cargo to the ship-Other vessels arrive, waiting removal of Taboo to trade-Tonquin has her cargo on board -Taboo raised-A truly affectionate parting with the King and young Princes....... 114 CHAPTER 2.-Ship departs from the Feejees--Remarks on the passage to sea- Ship takes a new route for China-Meets with much drift-wood, &c.—Dis- cover the Tonquin Islands- l'ass Dough's Group-Volcano Island - Its columns of smoke-Discover the Group of Equator Isles-Signs of Inhabitants - Discover an extensive and important Group of Islands, to which they give the name of American Group—Dangerous situation of the ship-Arrival at Canton-Sail for New-York-Arrival........ 126 CHAPTER 3.–Narrative of the massacre of the crew of the American ship Tonquin, under the command of Lieutenant J. Thorn, United States Navy, by the savages of the north-west coast of America, and the destruction of the ship.. 137 SECTION 1.-Tonquin anchors in Neweatee harbour-Visited by the natives Brisk fur trade-Affront of an aged chief-Savage threat of revenge-Trade interrupted-Natives quit the ship--Natives revisit the ship in unusual numbers -Interpreter discovers the natives on deck to be secretly armed-Their horrid war-yell—The attack and massacre--Captain Thorn, the clerk, and four sea- men regain the ship's deck-Savages driven from the ship-Slaughter of the savages, and destruction of their canoes by the ship's fire-Four seamen quit the ship-Natives are induced 10 again visit the ship-Ship's deeks crowded with numerous savages-Ship blown up by Captain Thorn-Terribls scene of destruction—The four seamen taken by the savages and cruelly put to death.... ........... 137 SECTION 2.-A List of newly-discovered Lands in the South Seas and Pacific, with their situations.. 150 PART V. EXTRACTS from the Memorials to Congress, praying that a National Discovery and Exploring expedition be authorized, and sent out to the South Seas, Pacific Ocean, &c. with a statement of the probable National benefits in view, &c., &c., that may be obtained, by performing such an expedition, with notes explanatory of the subject..... 152 Notes explanatory of the subject of the National Exploring Expedition, or, A plain tale of facts, &c.... 167 A List of the vessels, officers, and scientific corps, which compose the Ameri- can National South Sea Exploring Expedition. The following being a cor- rect list, as reported, at this date, of the United States' South Sea Exploring Expedition, November 20, 1837... 190 CON TEN TS. xi PART vi: A DESCRIPTION of the New South Shetland Isles, by James Eights, Esq., M.D. Naturalist in the scientific corps in the American Exploring Expedition, of Brigs Seraph and Anpawan, under the command of Captain B. Pendleton, and N. B. Palmer, sent out to the South Seas, under the directive agency of the author of this work, and the patronage of Government, in the years 1829 and 1830......... 195 Location of the Islands Snowy elevation-Straits and bays---Beautiful-clear- ness of the atmosphere---Icebergs---Penguin assemblages---Antarctic sky- Brilliant hue and reflections--, Whale skeletons---Geological features---Craggy eminences---Singular ebb and flow of the tide...Current along the coast--- The strata and minerals---Volcanoes--Animals---Mermaid---Sea skunks Birds--King Penguin and its eggs---Rookery Penguins--Existence of a south- ern continent---Palmer's Land...... 195 PART VII. 217 An account of the noted aud bloody Naval Battle fought on the 22d of Sep- tember, 1779, between the Good Man Richard, under the command of John Paul Jones, and the Serapis, commanded by Captain Parson, by an officer in the United States' Navy, to whom chance gave a station in the battle that conspicuously tended to the victory. With the gallant Captain Parson's honourable and liberal remarks to Captain Jones on the result................ The ships appear in sight of each other---Preparations for battle--The Serapis hails---Laconic answer of Jones---Battle commences--Lower deck guns burst-- Serapis rakes the G. M. Richard--Dreadful and sweeping slaughter of G.M. Richard's marines---Ships run foul of each other---Serapis drops her anchor---G. M. Richard's Staff and Ensign knocked into the sea---Both ships attempt to board, in turn are driven back-Both ships on fire---Daring bravery of officer and men of main-top---Slaughtering effect of a hand grenade.-- Surrender of the Serapis---Humane, honourable, and liberal remarks of Cap tain Parson---Dead bodies of the slain-- Bloody carnage on the decks---The G. M. Richard abandoned--She sinks head downwards--Whirlpool and nar- row escape of boat--- Arrival in the Texel--- The sequel.. 217 CONTENTS. PART VIII. NARRATIVE SKETCH of an occurrence the most barbarous, from the voyage of the American brigantine Hersilia, of Stonington, Captain James P. Sheffield, to the South Seas, under the directive agency of the author, in the year 1821.. 233 CHAPTER 1.-Hersilia sails from New South Shetlands-Anchors at Isle St. Mary's-Her capture-Barbarian chief Beneviades-His cruel treatment of crew while prisoners --Town and River Arauco on the coast of Chili---Prison- ers' sufferings and hard fare in rations---Military duty---The tyrant chief and American sentry---Parade of the royal army---General Beneviades' eulogy on the Americans, and reprimand to his officers---Paper money---Death to refuse its tender--- Disgusting and barbarous punishment of females---Inhuman execu- tion of a Padre....... 233 CHAPTER 2.--Hersilia fitted out a cruiser --Her return from cruise off Chiloe Island---Violent storm---Hersilia wrecked in storm---Her captain and crew employed to launch her afloat again---Whale boats---Daring and desperate enterprise of captain Sheffield and crew---Plan of escape---Brave acts of Kel- logg and Hoxie--The prisoners escape---Land on Island St. Mary's---Forced to subsist on raw seals' flesh....... 242 CHAPTER 3.--- Boats put out to sea---Their suffering in them during their voyage- Effect a landing at Moula on the coast of Chili---Kind treatment and recep- tion from the inhabitants--- Travel to Valparaiso--United States' consul United States' frigate Constellation---Kindness of her gallant commander and officers-- British fag ship 74, and sloop of war---Generous and noble proceed- ings of the British admiral, Sir T. M. Hardy, - 249 CHAPTER 4.-Captain Sheffield sails for Arauco in the British sloop of war Con- way-Anchor at Arauco-Town and store buildings in flames-A bloody battie--- Patriot and royal armies---The defeated armies---Courteous and kind conduct of the commander of His B. M. sloop of war Conway---Captain Shef- field and men return in the Conway to Valparaiso-- Close of the narrative.... 254 APPENDIX. 259 American National South Sea Exploring Expedition, Letters, &c. President's Message to House of Representatives... Extract from Mr. Crary's Remarks in House of Representatives.. 276 307 14 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE 2 2 Sept. 3d.—In latitude 40° 18' N. we were met by a heavy gale from the eastern board, which obliged me. for safety to cause the ship to be hove-to under her storm sails. The gale was accompanied with a mountainous sea, breaking and showing its dashing, white-crown- ed foam. At 8, A. M, one of those turbulent neighbours, of a mountain size, dashed its white- capped foam on board, and gave our good ship a complete drenching and a giant thump, tak- ing away with it our stern boat from its davids, much to our regret. We received no other damage of consequence. At 10, A. M., the violence of the gale abated, and it gradually moderated by 2, P. M., to only a strong breeze, veering round to the S.S.W. We now met with the usual weather, at the intervals of pass- ing time-clear and cloudy, rain and sunshine, fresh gales and calms, which accompanied us until the 14th of October, when, at 11, A. M., we had sight of the Isle Sal, one of the Cape de Verdes, bearing W.S.W., distant 13 leagues. Our variation at this time, was 5° west. At meridian, the Isle Sal bore from us, W. by N., distant 11 leagues; our latitude, by sun's altitude, at same time, was 16° 48' north. Soon after we had sight of Bonavista Island; and, on continuing our course to the southward, the Isle of Mayo soon appeared in view. At 16 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE At 2, Captain B. being informed of the demand of His Excellency, instantly gave orders to tack ship in shore. When again near and abreast of the harbour's mouth, he despatched the boat, with Messrs. Napier and Coles, with the ship’s sea letter, to Mr. Brown. At meridian, the Fort at the harbour of Port Praya, bore N. N.W., distant 3 leagues, when our latitude was, by good altitudes, 14° 54' N. P. M., the ship being close in abreast the mouth of the bay, a signal was hove out for the boat to return on board. At 5, P. M., she came along side, and, as soon as she was hoisted in, all sail was made, with a fine, brisk trade-breeze, causing our good little ship to divide the sur- face of Neptune's element, in her quick rate of departure, from this unfeeling and disobliging Governor, as well as to fast widen the distance between her and the shore of his island. Mr. Brown now reported to me that this humane and friendly magistrate to suffering sea- men in serious want, would not permit him to purchase any small stock of pigs, fowls, &c., but only the very limited number of cocoa-nuts and oranges which the boat brought off. Even these were by much solicitation and persuasion permitted to be purchased, at a high rate, of particular persons pointed out to make the sale by his Excellency. At the same time, the market was well stocked, and persons from the TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 17 country were humbly begging to be permitted to sell their articles, at a much lower rate. At 6, P. M., Port Praya bore N.N.E., dis- tant 5 leagues, when we took our departure, steering to the southeastward, to cross the equa- tor for the Indian ocean. CHAPTER II. Violent squalls-A water-spout-Its terrific threatenings and passing roar-Shoals of whales-Cross the equinoc- tial line-Cape Aguillas' Bank=Gannets, and other birds -A white squall_Many whales seen. As we progressed south, we experienced much unpleasant weather, accompanied with heat, thunder and lightning, and heavy squalls of wind and rain, near to, and north of the Equinoctial Line. In about the latitude of 6° north, during a violent squall of wind and heavy rain, we were obliged, for safety, to clew down the top-sails, and put the ship before the wind. In the midst of our anxiety for the safety of our masts, to our sudden surprise, a terriffic, sea- serpent-like-shaped water-spout appeared in view, coming at a rapid rate, as if direct in chase of us. Our ship was yawed broadly off, to endeayour to get out of its way, and of 2* 18 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE threatened destruction; and, although she was now going through the water at a very swift rate, still, in its passing, rushing roar, it seemed, to our dread, to be only about a cable's length. clear of our ship, giving us only a soaking drench as it passed on. Surely these mighty, whirl-wind water-pyramids, connecting, in one giant link, as it were, the heavens with the sea, must be an awful evidence to man of the won- derful power of that almighty and good Being, who made, directs, and governs all. In about the latitude of 5° north, we saw numbers of shoals of whales, gambolling and thrashing about in their element, most probably after the small fry. At this situation, we had 11° west variation, which decreased as we advanc- ed and crossed the line, in longitude 20° 32' 15" west, into south latitude. In latitude 2° 18' south, we had 10° west variation. On Monday, 24th December, being in latitude 36° 37' south, the sea-water became coloured, when we judged ourselves on the edge of the bank off Cape Aguillas. We saw seals play- ing around in the water, and many oceanic birds cutting the air on their wing, in all directions such as gannets, albatrosses, cape pigeons, and mother carys. Our variation at this time was, per amplitude, 26° 10' west. On the 27th, at 1, A. M., during a pleasant breeze and TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 19 weather, our ship was suddenly struck by a white squall, which blew with great violence; and it was with much difficulty, so sudden was its approach, that we saved our sails. This severe squall was the more remarkable, as the moon was then shining, being near her full. The heavens were thinly overcast, with small white clouds, forming, what is called by seamen, a mackerel sky. There was, in fact, at the time, more the appearance of a calm, than of squalls. It, however, blew violently for about two hours, when it suddenly shifted from W.N. W. to the S. W., and moderated to only a fresh breeze. Monday, January 5th, 1807.-Our latitude was 36° 24' south ; longitude, by lunar ob- servation, 52° 16' 30" east. Hereabouts we saw many whales playing around in their element, to all appearance much delighted; these monsters of the deep having been our neighbours so frequently of late, I should think it good whaling-ground here. The oceanic birds, of various kinds, continued daily to ac- company us; and, for four or five days past, our ship has been making only moderate way. Our variation now was, 24° 10' west. Since our arriving to above the latitude of 30° south, we had variable winds from all points of the compass, and, as the sailors remark, all sorts of weather. 20 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE CHAPTER III, Islands of Amsterdam, and St. Paul's Whales and seals Sea scurvy-New Holland—White beach—Columns of smoke-Remarkable rock-Cape Chatham. Thursday, January 29th, 1807.-We had sight of Amsterdam Island. At meridian it bore E. by N., distant 14 leagues. Previous to our departure, I made the centre of Amster- dam to be, by good meridian altitudes and lunar sights, in latitude 38° 37' south ; longitude, 77° 17' east, from London. As we passed these two Islands of Amsterdam and St. Paul's, many whales and seals were seen, as also nu- merous birds of various kinds. : February 4th.-At noon, our latitude was 37° 44' south ; longitude, 90° 53' 20" east, and the variation 13° 30' west. We had now the third man on the sick list, with the sea scurvy ; and although. I restricted them to a diet of only raw potatoes and onions, in vin- egar, with boiled rice and molasses, yet, if there was any change, the patients rather grew daily worse. Monday, the 16th.--At noon, our observa- tions placed the ship in latitude 33° 44' south; longitude, 114° 01' 20' east ; variation, at TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 21 same time, was 7° 45' westerly. We had now a brisk breeze from S. by E., with hazy weather. At 6, P. M., that welcome sound to the way-worn mariner, after a long passage, of "Land, ho!” by the look-out aloft, was heard. It proved to be the coast of New-Holland, bear- ing, by compass, E. by S. about 5 leagues dis- tant, and had the appearance of islands, which were soon perceivable from the deck. We now steered along its coast; and, at 11, A. M., we were abreast of a very remarkable white, sandy beach, which bore E.S.E., distant 6 leagues ; at which time the southernmost land in sight, bore S.E. & E., distant 8 leagues. Large columns of smoke were now seen from several parts of the land, which was of a moderate elevation, and apparently well wooded; the ascending smokes we supposed were made by the natives, on the appearance of our ship, and gave an evidence that this part of New Hol- land was thickly inhabited. With a favourable breeze, we continued sailing to the eastward, along the coast, and, at daylight, on the 17th, we had again a sight of the land a point bear- ing N.E. | E., distant 9 leagues. Soon after, the look-out, at the mast head, sung out, “ Sail, ho!” Not thinking to meet here with any thing like a ship, we were much surprised. As we advanced, however, and the sun got up, it 22 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE proved to be a rock. The weather, when it was first seen, was very hazy ; but it now lighted up, and gave a better and more exten- sive view. At 6, A. M., Cape Chatham (so named by Vancouver) was seen, bearing E.. N., distant 7 leagues. Our ship was now at no great distance from what was first, by the look- out, taken for a sail, but which now showed itself plainly to be a large rock, about a mile in circumference. Its E.N.E. side is nearly perpendicular; its W.N.W. side sloping down to the water. In the direction of E. by N. from it, lies a small rock, over which the sea breaks continually. Its distance from the large rock, or islet, is about half a mile. This rock bears from Cape Chatham, N. 79° W., distant thirteen or fourteen miles. This remarkable islet, not being mentioned in Vancouver, or Turnbull's Voyages, or on any chart in my possession, I concluded it to be a new discovery, and called it after our first sight and surprise on its ap- pearance, Sail Rock, and placed it in latitude 34° 59' south, and longitude, 116° 20' east, and about nine miles off shore from the nearest land of the coast. At 8, A. M., Cape Chatham bore east, 4 leagues distant, and appeared. plainly to be detached from the main land by means of a passage, apparently navigable for vessels of a considerable burthen. . This, TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 23 it seems, Captain Vancouver did not ascertain, although his opinion was, as we have found it, and as I have here noted; and we therefore called it, Hope Passage. Large fires continued to be made on shore upon the upland, as we advanced along the coast, as also for several miles far in the interior; the blaze and smoke of these fires ascended very high. At meridian, Cape Chatham bore N.W. by W. & W., distant 5 leagues, when the ship’s latitude was 35° 08' south. CHAPTER IV. Ocean Cape Howe-King George III. Sound-Bald Head-New- ly invented still for obtaining fresh water from that of the -Van Diemen's Land— The Mew Stone-The Feathered Tribe-Amphibious Bird-Anchor at Botany Bay-Sydney Cove-Governor's humane and honourable conduci-Contrast between his and that of St. Jago's Doctor O'Conner-His humane feelings and kind atten- tion to the sick-Landing the sick-Sea scurvy-Its sin- gularity. Wednesday, February 18th.—At daylight, Cape Howe was seen bearing N.N.E. & E. distant 8 leagues, with the detached Island off the Cape, which bore E. by N. # N. distant 5 leagues. The weather now soon became dark and thick, attended with a heavy gale of wind 24 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE from the S.W. blowing in tremendous hard squalls, which made our horizontal view soon very limited, and caused us to take in and furl the topsails. It also shortly became prudent to haul off to the southward, and to reduce the canvass on the ship to her fore course, and storm staysails only; since, by the increasing violence of the gale, even with these limited sails, there was a heavy pressure which caused her by the sea rolling on to labour hard as she plunged through it. I, however, thought it necessary to carry this press on her to keep her from driving to the leeward of our intended port, King George the III. Sound, thinking we yet might have a chance to bring our ship at anchor in this port, if we could, during the gale, enable her to hold her ground, and it should soon moderate. At 8, A. M., we had sight of Bald Head, one of the chops of the above Sound, which was at this time the east- ernmost land in sight, bearing N by E. The distance, owing to the state of the weather, uncertain. At 9, A. M, the gale still increasing, I judged it best, our stock of water being now reduced to but five casks, to bear up and put the ship before the gale, preferring to endea- vour to reach with all despatch, and to touch in at Port Jackson for the relief of our sick, and the necessary supplies of refreshments. TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 25 We therefore put the ship before the gale, and on squaring away, directed our course for Van Diemen's Land, and in thus deciding, prudence requiring it, each man, officers and all on board, were put on an allowance of two quarts of water each, per diem. Wednesday, 25th. — The carpenter, an ingeni- ous mechanic, with the aid of a musket barrel, on trial, succeeded in an invention, and rigged up a still at the galley, or cooking coppers, which produced to us, from the sea water, fif- teen gallons of fresh water per 24 hours. It would have been a great and very thank- ful relief to my mind, had we have been per- mitted to have come at anchor with our ship in the Sound, as I was especially anxious for the relief of our scorbutic patients. Our head cook was this day taken, or reported on the list, with this discouraging and spirit-killing dis- ease, which not only added another to our in- valid list, taken off duty, but one with whom it was very inconvenient to dispense. However, our good little ship was now ploughing her way over the surface of Neptune's element, and rapidly advancing on her course before the strong and fair gale. Thursday, the 5th of March.—At 6, A. M, we were cheered by the look-out aloft with that ever-welcome sound of “Land, ho!” and very 3 26 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE soon thereafter we had sight, from the deck, of the S.W. Cape of Van Diemen's Land, bear- ing per compass N.E., distant 11 leagues. At 11, A. M.,we had sight of the Islet, Mew Stone, bearing north, distant 5 leagues. At 5, P M., Swilley Island was also in sight, bearing N. E., and at the same time the Eddy Stone had come within our view, bearing N.E. by E., about 5 leagues distant. We were now accompanied by great numbers of the feathered tribe, of va- rious kinds, flapping their pinions and sailing on the spread wing in every direction. That amphibious bird, the penguin, was also diving around us in Neptune's waving field of water, in shoals, or companies of hundreds. As our ship drew in nearer to terra-firma, we were also visited by land birds of various kinds, one of which resembled the pigeon hawk, and was of a dark brown colour. At 6, A. M., Tasman's Head, the southern- most extremity of Wm. Pitt's Island, bore W. N.W., distant 8 leagues, when the northern- most land in sight bore N.N.W., 12 leagues distant. We now had clear, pleasant weather, with a moderate breeze from the south. March 8th. I was extremely anxious to get the ship into port, as our sick list with the scurvy had now increased to nine, who were unable to keep the deck, and the number was TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 27 almost daily increasing. The refreshing fra- grance from the land, as it came off to the ship with the flaws, had evidently an effect on even the worst of them. I therefore in person kept a sharp attend- ance on the working and sailing the ship along the coast; and after passing many capes, head- lands and islands, on the 16th of March we were gratified with the sight of Point Solander, bearing N.W., distant 10 miles, and likewise that of Cape Banks, bearing N.W.IN., dis- tant 4 leagues. On reaching abreast of the harbour of Botany Bay, we gave the signal for a pilot, by the discharge of a gun. At this time also sounded, and had bottom or ground at 63 fathoms, muddy with black sand, and specks. On the 17th, at 1, P. M., a small sail boat hove in sight, standing out from Botany Bay, and steering for the Hope, which soon came alongside, and accommodated us with a pilot, who, on coming on deck, requested that his boat should be hoisted in, which request was com- plied with. The weather began now to put forth a very threatening appearance, the wind increasing to a strong gale, with a heavy sea. The pilot directed the ship to be tacked and to stand off shore, which was promptly done; and I must admit that his judgment proved correct; 28 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE for our ship was soon forced to come under close reefed topsails. At 2, A. M., wore ship, and stood in again for the land. At 5, A. M., it having moderated, made all sail, strering in for the Bay ; and at 8, A.M., we most gladly came to anchor in Syd- ney Cove, Port Jackson, in 7 fathoms water. In a short time thereafter, two officers came on board as a guard, and were soon followed by Dr. Harris, the Naval Officer of that port, who delivered to me the established port regula- tions, orders, &c., for our guide during our stay here. In the time we spent in working our ship from the southernmost cape or land down along the coast to this port, we experienced much heavy thunder and sharp, vivid lightning, with occasional heavy showers of rain, attended with gusts, or short gales. Much the same weather continued while we remained here in port, ex- cepting now and then some short spells of clear weather, during which we had delightful plea- sant days. March 18th.--I had the honour of paying a visit and presenting my respects to His Excel- lency the Governor, whom I found to be truly a gentleman of honourable and humane feel- ings, and corroborating them by ready and no- ble acts, speaking volumes in meritorious credit TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 29 to His Britannic Majesty, and to the character of that liberal nation under whom he holds his official station. He was entirely the opposite to the Governor of St. Jago, (Cape de Verdes,) for on my solicitation, he granted, with the most prompt readiness, liberty to land our sick on Garden Island, which was situated about a mile distant from our ship. He also gave per- mission to obtain every aid for their comfort, and enabled me immediately to engage Doctor O'Conner, a physician of first note and talent in his profession, to attend them while on the Island. This discrder, the sea scurvy, is a very strange disease, as very soon after the patient is taken with it, he loses all spirits, and every disposition to action. Even any inclination to move at all has entirely vanished; and when the limbs become much, or rather, as in some instances, enormously swelled, on pressing your thumb on the fleshy part, it will cause a deep indentation, as if done on a mass of putty, -which indentation will remain the same for hours, while the act causes no pain to the pa- tient. It is singular how soon the earth, on placing the patient upon it, with a diet of fruit, vegetables, salads, &c., for his constant food, with the lightest and not luscious fresh meat soups, revives him, and fast recruits again his 3* 30 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE health. When advanced in the disease and weak from it, the very smell or scent of the land, or disembarking from the ship, very much affects them, even to frequent faintings. Our sick, on landing, were, much to my con- solation, now placed on a lovely green and comfortable situation, with the promise of their speedy recovery ; were all daily attended and supplied with a full allowance of fresh meat soups, fresh fish, vegetables, fruit, &c., and daily visited, with the most solicitous and humane feelings, by Dr. O'Conner, myself always ac- companying him, to be certain that every arti- cle was furnished to secure their comfort and prompt recovery. While here, we were very kindly and cour- teously treated by His Excellency the Gov- ernor, and His Majesty's officers; and by their ready and obliging aid we completed our sup- plies of refreshments, wood and water. Our invalids having recovered, most of them to their duty, and all pronounced by the Doctor out of danger, they returned on board, free from any fear of their complaint returning soon again in going to sea. Our ship was therefore of course now prepared and got ready for sailing. TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 31 CHAPTER V. Deprrture from Sydney-A strange ship-Macauley's and Curtis' Islands-Sunday Island - Numerous Birds and Fishes—Island of 'Tongataboo--Van Diemen's Road Bad Anchorage- Directions in sailing among the Islands -Coral reefs--A strange ship appears—Strict inquiry of the natives for white persons among them. Friday, April 3d, 1807.-Having paid my parting respects to His Excellency, with thanks for his kindness, and taken an adieu of His Majesty's officers and the gentlemen merchants, with whom an acquaintance had been made while here, we received our pilot on board, and orders were issued to weigh anchor, and pro- ceed to sea. As soon as we had gained with- out the South Head, a strange ship was descried in the offing, and the pilot soon after took his leave of us, and proceeded to board the stranger, which was steering in for the port. At meridian, the South Head of Port Jackson bore W. by N., distant 9 leagues, from which we took our departure from the conti- nent of New Holland, to proceed on our pas- sage for Tongataboo, one of the Friendly Isl- ands. After a passage of ordinary winds and wea- ther, without any remarkable incident occur- 32 VOYAGE OF THF HOPE At noon, ring, on Sunday, the 19th, we had sight of Macauley's and Curtis' Islands. Macauley's Island bore N.E. # E., distant 4 leagues; and our latitude at this time, by a good observation, was 30° 24' S. ; variation, 13" 5' E. On the 20th, we had sight of Sunday Island. At meridian, its northernmost end bore N. by E. } E, distant 5 leagues, our latitude then being 29° 24' S. Our ship was now surrounded by vast numbers of the feathered tribe ; and, at the same time, were gambolling in their element around us numer- ous fishes of various sorts. We were not so fortunate, however, as to induce any one of them to take the bait on the hook. The largest, or giant kind, (whales,) we declined offering the baited hook to, believing it perfectly use- less, and being somewhat acquainted with their mighty strength and quick motion ; for should we offer and they incline to take the hook, we should, to a certainty, only have the “success of loss," (as Paddy would say,) to lose our hook, if not our line with it. Several rocks were now within our view, extending off from the south end of Sunday Island, and detached from it. On the 26th, a very clear day, we had sight of Pylstart's Island, bearing W., distant 14 leagues; and on Monday, the 27th, at 5 P. M., TO THE FEEJEE ISLAND3. 33 we got sight of Eooa, or Middleburgh Isl- and, bearing per compass N. by E. & E., dis- tant 10 leagues. At 10, A. M., the long-wished- for Island of Tongataboo, or New Amsterdam, was in sight, bearing N.N.W., distant 8 leagues. It is very low land, and has, on first view, in clear weather, somewhat the appearance of a reef of rocks of a moderate height. We now bore away for this Island, and prepared all in order for the best defence by loading our car- riage guns, &c. &c. As we sailed along its coast to the westward, when arrived opposite the Bay, and while working the ship into Van Diemen's Road, several canoes, containing numbers of the natives with the products of their Island for a barter trade, came off around our ship. Their variety for trade consisted of cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, plantains, &c., for which we traded and bartered our riches, (so considered by them,) viz. pieces of old iron hoop, knives, needles, small looking glasses, beads, buttons, nails, &c. Having worked in on the bank near to the shore, we now, as ex- pected, brought our ship at anchor, by letting drop the best bower anchor in 30 fathoms over a bed of coral and sand, very close in shore. Although we quickly and briskly paid out 90 fathoms of cable, the bank was so very steep, that she did not bring up, but soon dragged off 34 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE of it, and shortly clear out, off soundings, when we in dull cheer hove up our anchor to its place on the bow again, and made sail under sad disappointment to regain the anchorage. However, on regaining our former position on the bank in the bay, I thought it best to keep the ship under way, on short tacks, as we were now surrounded by an additional number of canoes of all sizes, containing large swarms of natives, and carrying on a brisk trade for re- freshments in hogs, vegetables, fruits, &c., which the Island seemed very bountifully to produce. Directions. After obtaining sight of Ecoa, run down on the south side, when you will soon come in sight of Cattaw Island, and then Tongataboo ; keeping as you advance all on the starboard hand, you may double round these islands, I believe close to the shore, as we saw no danger. I recommend, however, and it is highly important, that a trusty officer, while navigating here, be continually at the mast-head, on a good look-out for those coral reefs, (which seem, as it were, in these seas, to grow up in a night,) and rocks, but which with this caution can be seen at a reasonable distance and avoided, even if under the surface of the water, and no break over them. Van Diemen's Road is on the northwest part of 36 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE person de- lief, should there be any civilized tained by the chiefs on Tongataboo, I made every inquiry also for any white persons, to as- certain if there was even a single one now re- maining on the Island, but could not learn from the chiefs or natives that there was even one left. A vast number of the natives in crowds kept parading on the beach at every time while and when the ship was in the Road trading with those in the canoes While here we experienced occasionally squalls of thunder and lightning, accompanied with exceeding thick and dark weather, with however some fair and pleasant intervals. CHAPTER VI. Departure from Tɔnga for the Feejees—Fatoa (or Turtle) Island--Dangers of the ship among the Feejee Archi- pelago-Most dangerous navigation-Caution of the Na- tives - Numerous groups of Islands - A Chief comes on board— Double canoes—King Tynahoa--Dignity of His Majesty—Description of his person-Lofty peaked moun- tain-Gorroo Chief-Boat excursion. Sunday, May 3d, 1807.—Having engaged as pilots and interpreters a Tonga and a Fee- jee man, and having them now on board, we bore away; but the heart of the Tonga man TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 37 failing him, he became unwilling to proceed. I therefore directed him to embark in a canoe that was near by, and return—which he glad- ly, to appearance, complied with. We now, in company with the King George, took a final departure from Van Diemen's Road, which I place in latitude 21° 04 south, and longitude 175° 18' west. It being dark and squally through the night, we thereby parted company with the King George, and saw her not afterwards during our pas- sage. May 4th.—At 1, P. M., the appearance of the weather was very unpropitious, in the opinion of our Feejee pilot, to run for our small mark, (Turtle Island,) called by the na- tives Fatoa. We therefore close-reefed the topsails, and hauled the ship upon a wind, with her head to the southward. It now blow- ing a gale, with a tremendous sea running, our good ship laboured hard. May 7th.- At 3, P. M., we got sight from aloft of Fatoa Island, bearing W. by S., distant 6 leagues. It yet blowing a gale from the northeastward, and being cloudy weather, at- tended with heavy squalls of wind and rain, accompanied with sharp lightning and thunder, and with a large irregular sea, the ship was still under close-reefed topsails and fore course. 4 38 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE 1 Her latitude at this time was 19° 33' south, and the variation 12° 20' east. May 15.-We now were blessed with settled pleasant weather, and also with a moderate trade wind from the E.N.E. At 2, P. M., we had sight of two islands; the largest was called by the Feejee Chief, our pilot, Hongbare Le- vo, and bore (all our bearings are taken by compass) N. by W., distant 8 leagues. The small one was called by same authority Hong- hare Livi, and bore from us N.N.W., distant 7 leagues. At the same time, Turtle Island bore S.S.E. & E., distant 8 leagues. At 3, P. M. Falongaa Island was in sight, looking at this distance like two islands, bearing N.W. by W. W., distant 5 leagues. I now hauled the ship up to weather Falongaa, and at half-past 5 P. M. saw to appearance through between Falongaa and Honghare Islands a passage. In that direction, also, four other islands came within our view: I now tacked ship to the eastward, to spend the night under short sail and tacks, keeping our ship as near as possible over the same ground or place during the night. In and during the evening, saw lights on shore at Falongaa. At 6, A. M., Honghare bore N.N.W. \ W. when our ship was at this time 6 leagues distant from its N.W. end. At noon, its S.W. point bore N.W., distant 2 leagues : TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 39 us. at the same time, the west point of Folongaa bore N.W., distant 5 leagues. A reef extends off from the N.E. point of Honghare. Our latitude now by observation was 19° 21' south. May 16th.-Descried a canoe, under sail, coming out from Honghare, and steering for When she had arrived near by, I directed the ship to be hove-to; but no signs or per- suasions, by myself or our pilot chief, could induce the natives in her to come on board. At 3, P. M., we had sight of Annamoohoa Island, bearing N.W., distant 6 leagues ; at same time, the north point of Honghare bore E. by S., distant 4 leagues. A current sets through the passage between Annamoohoa and its opposite island. At 6, P. M., tacked ship to eastward, to spend the night, keeping the ship as near the spot of her present situation as possible; and a very disagreeable and most anxious night it was, to my mind. The wea- ther being thick, and having very limited sea- room in which to manoeuvre the ship, over a bottomless sea, between the islands, as may be judged, when morning came, and gave day . light to our aid, it made us sensible of our dan- gerous situation during the night just past. At 8, A. M., of this numerous group, eighteen islands were in sight. At this time, the N.E. end of Annamoohoa bore N.W. by N., dis- tant 7 leagues. At 9, 4. M., it falling calm, a 40 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE masted canoe came alongside with a chief, ac- companied by nine natives. The chief very willingly supplied us with all the yams, &c., brought off in his canoe, in barter for beads and buttons. Soon after he had taken his leave of us, a number of canoes came off from the islands to pay us a visit, and dispose of their vegeta- bles and fruits. At noon, the centre of Hen- gasaw Livo bore N.E., distant 4 leagues. Thus, in the sailors' phrase, ends this 24 hours, calm as a clock. Our latitude now, at noon, was, by observation, 19° south, and the variation was, 10° 30' east. May 18th.—This day we were visited by several large double war-canoes, as well as others of different make and form, containing numerous jabbering natives, who viewed the ship with wonder and surprise, and seem- ingly utter astonishment, not having seen here such a floating island (as they called her) be- fore, and bringing with them a good supply for barter with us, of excellent yams, &c. A bar- ter trade was now very briskly carried on, for the shining riches (in their estimation on board our ship. Among the natives, Labooulyi, the Feejee chief and pilot, that came with us from Tongataboo, met with his relatives, and took his leave of us, in one of the double canoes. At 10, A. M., Tynahoa, the Grand Chief and TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 41 King of all these islands, in a very large, gaily decked double canoe, and truly brilliantly adorned after their manner, and show of state, with carved work, &c. &c., attended, in addi- tion, by his nobles in royal state and movement, came alongside the ship. From the gangway I invited his royal person on board; which in- vitation, His Majesty, after causing to be pass- ed on board his welcoming presents to me, consisting of a fat shote, yams, cocoa-nuts, &c., readily complied with; and came promptly on the ship's deck, to all appearance in full con- fidence, without the least show of fear or hesi, tation. He then moved about with his two attendant chiefs from this to that object with all the readiness his inquiries would admit; viewed, and closely inspected every article, fixture, &c., and inquired the use or purpose of the form and construction of the ship, with her equipments for war, accommodations, &c. &c. He scrutinized with minuteness, and with much ease and dignity in his movements. At the same time, he was earnest in his inquiries con cerning the use of this and that thing or arti- cle. His Majesty's personal appearance was truly noble. He was six feet three inches in height, and well proportioned every way; had pleasant, but commanding countenance, and was about forty years of age. After being sa- 4* 42 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE tisfied with viewing the ship, &c., and receiv- ing from me some small shining trinkets as my return present, but, to him, sufficiently and sa- tisfactorily valuable as a present to royalty, he took his leave, inviting me to pay him a visit at his royal residence on the island. He em- barked, seating his royal person under the ca- nopy on the platform or deck of his magnifi- cent double war-canoe. The accompanying fleet moved from us in great state for the shore, and landed at Nahow, one of his principal re- sidences. His Majesty, however, before part- ing, gave to me a promise to return on board again in the morning, and accompany us in the ship down to Gorroo Island. May 21st--At 3, A. M., we had sight of a very lofty, spiral, or peaked mountain, on the main island, Toconroba, which bore N. by W. W., distant 7 leagues. At 10, A. M., a large canoe came off from Gorroo, with a chief, who, after tendering and receiving presents, at his own desire, remained on board. I now despatched Mr. Brown, the first officer, in a whale-boat, well armed, and manned by six good men, with provisions for two days, to ex- plore the seaboard and outer bounding coral reef for the passage for our ship to our intended port, at the King's main island of Toconroba, (subsequently named Sandal Wood Bay.) Our TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 43 latitude, at situation of ship at this time, was 17° 27' south. CH A P T E R VII. King again visits the ship~Freedom of His Majesty--A Royal Present-Brisk Trade—Ship surrounded by War. Canoes, with Armed Warriors-Expected Battle-Can. nibal war-yells—The Leader Chief-Signal of Retreat- Warriors depart-Direction Island— Dangerous situation of the Ship-Three Mountains—The Sea Wall Reef- Narrow Passage-Rapid Current-Coral Reefs-Hand- some Young Chief-Intricate Navigation, danger of - Boarding-Netting-Sandal Wood Cargo— Treaty with the King-His Majesty's Treasury Chest-Grand Council- Good Faith of the King—Articles of Trade. men. May 22d.—The King, agreeably to his pro- mise yesterday, now came on board, and, to show his confidence in us, his royal person was attended by only one chief and six native canoe As a first-rate royal present, His Ma- jesty now presented me with a very large, fat boar hog, for which I made him a satisfactory return. After granting permission to his na- tive subjects to enter on a free and brisk trade with us, for refreshments, in hogs, yams, &c., in barter for our valuable riches of shining metal buttons, small looking-glasses, glass beads, &c., His Majesty took his leave, and returned on shore. TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 45 shot and langrage, with matches burning, and every man wide awake at his station. After some time spent thus, in sailing around the ship, the commanding chief placed his war-canoe a few yards directly ahead, and in the way of our ship, and hauled down his sail. His men lay on their paddles, thinking, as it ap- peared, by thus doing, to drop his canoe along- side, and board us; but as the ship was under some way, and observing his intentions, I in- stantly directed her to be given a broad yaw off. This immediately brought our guns and broadside to bear fairly on them and, in this way, we passed them, without any discharge, as we were acting only on the defensive. As the success of our voyage, and the safety of our absent boat, was constantly on my mind, as well as a deep reluctance to destroy life, I was determined not to commence the batıle, but to act wholly on the defensive. They then used their paddles after us, keeping close under our stern, and insisting on making fast their rope to the ship. This we decidedly for- bade and opposed, and effectually prevented without a fight. In the mean while, the rest of these large war-craft, with their crowd of arm- ed warriors, breaking the air with their horrid war-yells, kept sailing and paddling around the ship, within pistol-shot distance, keeping TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 47 truly be presumed no small weight of anxiety existed on my mind during his absence. On the 26th, at 8, A. M., saw a small island, which I called, and very appropriately, Direc- tion Island, (not having learned the native name of it,) as it was situated directly in the range of the ship's passage through the outer main reef, and bore N.W. £ N., distant two leagues. May 28th.-Experienced a heavy gale and squally weather through the night; but it mo- derated to a light breeze at near daylight. As the morning light broke and lit up, it discover- ed to us the very dangerous situation of the ship, caused by the currents, as well as the gale, so near the shore, that we had hardly room to bring the ship about, and keep clear of being wrecked. However, on promptly well- manning our sweeps in her aid, we succeeded in bringing her in stays and about, with her head off from this dreaded, rocky shore, and, to appearance, at one time, of certain shipwreck on it. We were much aided and assisted in effecting our escape, by the alert working of our fast sailing little ship. The great relief our escape gave to me from shipwreck, on this wild, rocky, savage coast, can be judged, I think, only by a commander with the like charge, who has escaped from a like situa- 48 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE tion, and from the danger of being wrecked on a cannibal shore. The weather clearing up soon after, gave us a sight of Direction Island, when we wore ship and stood in towards it, for the passage. This island is a good mark to the mariners for the channel through the sea wall reef. Three very remarkable mountains were now within our view, over another island, bear- ing N.N.W., and the remarkable sharp, spi- ral mountain, on Toconroba, bore N. by W. At 11, A. M., I despatched Mr. Brown in a boat, who, in his exploring cruise, had disco- vered and sounded it out, to lay as a buoy mark in the passage through the outer main reef. At this time, Direction Island bore E. by N. & N., distant 5 leagues. Mr. Brown having soon made the signal of his boat's situa- tion in the channel, we bore the ship away un- der her fore-course and three topsails, with a brisk trade breeze, and every officer and man at his station. In about an hour, our good ship had passed safely through the reef, by the chan- nel, where the boat lay, and which I judged to be only about fifteen yards wide, from side to side, or from rocks to rocks, of this sea-bound reef. The breadth here of this coral reef, I judged to be about two cables' length; we found the tide or current running very rapidly through the pass. After our ship was through, we hauled TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 49 her up N. by E.; but our course soon became va- riable, on account of the many patches of shoal coral reefs, and rocks just under the surface of the sea-water; these could be timely and plainly seen by the officer on the look-out aloft, and cunning our direction in the course for the ship. Our course mainly, from the narrow pass through the sea wall reef to Booje, our first anchorage, was about N. by E., and the distance about 7 leagues. We brought the ship at an anchor, with the small bower, at Booje, in 13 fathoms water, over a bottom of fine black sand : a low, sandy beach, with a grove of cocoa-nut-trees, and a native village, bearing E.N.E., distant half a mile. This anchorage I subsequently named Sandal Wood Bay and Road. With all precaution, we now bent the sheet-cable, and shackled the chain- cables to their anchors on the bows, as being in readiness and prepared for the worst event, and moored our ship with the stream anchor. Our latitude, at this anchorage, was 16° 58 south. Soon after bringing our ship here at anchor, a trig built and very handsome young chief came alongside, in an uncommonly neat- ly built Tongataboo double canoe. He came without hesitation on board, and promptly pre- sented me with several hundred fine cocoa-nuts as a welcome present; in return for which, and 5 50 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE his free sociability, I made him a present of a proper return. He had been some time from Tonga; and his bold, but very neatly and highly-ornamented and carved-work craft, showed, incontestably, that they make their sea-voyages, at least thus far, in these double canoes. I cannot here sufficiently express my thankfulness to the Great Preserver of all, for his protection of those "who go down to the sea in ships, and do business in great waters,' and especially since, notwithstanding our way has been very full of innumerable dangers, for having safely arrived here. The relief given to my mind and feelings, by our arrival at anchor, after so many, and so tedious, laborious, and very anxious scenes passed during those several days and nights among those islands, working our ship along in the most dangerous and intricate navigation, between these islands, that can be conceived. In these passages, there are innumerable scattering coral reefs; and, in fact, it will likewise generally be found the case, that without the outer verge of the wall sea bound reefs, no bottom, by soundings, is to be had or found with the lead, even at the distance of only two or three cables' length from its verge; therefore no anchorage is to be had or expected, as none is to be found. In addition, the sea, with its mountain billows, is TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 51 usually breaking in massy foam and giant force; and the currents are irregular, and fre- quently of great force ; the wind, at intervals, blows strong gales, dark and squally; still there are spells of clear, pleasant weather, but they happen mostly in the day time. The winds, during a great part of the time, were, when regular, of the trades, blowing from the eastern board, but at times variable, and, in hard squalls, generally followed by a calm. To make the task more severe, and the burthen heavier to a commander, we were, much of the time, and during the day in particular, surround- ed by numerous canoes, with swarms of na- tives, keeping up the constant evidence before our eyes, that if we should be wrecked, imme- diate massacre was the destiny of all on board. After having safely performed this dangerous navigation, through this Archipelago, during the term of such a number of days, being our own pilots, and without charts, I think all must admit, that we would be likely to feel thank- fully fortunate in bringing our ship thus safely into port, at anchor, and that all on board would be relieved. We leave it to the magnanimity of the general reader to give to us the credit we merit in its performance. Some of the islands of this group are of mo- derate elevation ; but others are very moun- 52 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE tainous ; several with lofty, spiral, or sugar- loaf peaks ; others with round summits, and thickly wooded tops. The author would ask the liberty here to remark, that he has ever made it a permanent rule, not only to caution captains never to suffer over two or three prin- cipal chiefs, and their few attendant natives, (as those chiefs will always bring their attendants) to come on deck, at one and the same time; but also to have all the vessels ever sent out under their directive agency, and bound to those seas, on these voyages of barter-trade, among these children of nature, to be well fitted and armed, with the precaution of a boarding-netting made of rattling-stuff, and small iron chains, that a passage for a person might not be easily cut through its meshes. This should be attached to the ship's railing of cover at their quarters, and go entirely around the ship, and out on the sides of her bowsprit, to the fore-stay; and be so deep, as to admit tricing up, when among the savages, to twelve or fifteen feet above the rail. It being thus fitted, when the boarding-net is triced up, the ship’s quarters and decks are encircled, if it may be so termed, similar to a highly fenced yard, so that not any person can enter or come on board the ship's deck, except at the pass, by the armed sentry at the gangway, and TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 53 by the immediate permission of the officer in charge of this station. Sentries on guard are, or should be, at such times, always set on the tafferel, and on the heel of the bowsprit, to watch and observe all that is passing among the natives around the ship. With all these precautions, there is little danger; as when they are thus constantly prepared, and can all be put in requisition in a moment's warning, there is then little to fear while among those savages. The author has, thus prepared, at such time, had his ship surrounded by thousands of the natives, even in clusters, as it were, , like a flock of birds on a tree, hanging on around, and on the sides of his ship, without the board- ing-netting, and chattering their lingo, and ob- serving all the movements of those on the ship's decks; still no unpleasant occurrence has ever caused the shedding of blood by the ves- sels under his charge. The Hope being now in Sandal Wood Road, thus moored and prepared, and under her very judicious and vigilant commander, with our usual good discipline, we procured, at and off from Toconroba Island, her cargo; being the first, by Americans, of sandal wood, &c., from this group, without any unpleasant occurrence, or the least difficulty with the chiefs or inhabi: tants. At the same time, loaded an English 5* 54 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE vessel, on freight for Canton. In addition, en- gaged, in a treaty with the King, a cargo of wood, to be prepared and piled up on the small island near our present anchorage. This cargo was to be ready in eighteen moons (months) for any other ship belonging to the same owners ;* and by this treaty the King likewise engaged to cause the sandal wood trade to be tabooed (prohibited) from all other vessels procuring it, or taking any of it away from the islands. This unusual success by treaty, was mainly effected thus, as related to the author : -Their first officer, Mr. Brown, had become a great favourite, and the adopted son of the King, and, by living the greatest part of his time at His Majesty's residence, had learned to speak the Feejee language, so as to hold a conversation with the chiefs and natives, without an inter- preter, or with little difficulty, which greatly pleased them all, and zealously attached His Royal Majesty to him. Captain Brumley, through this influence, was able to effect this treaty. Its conditions were as follows:--The Captain was to cause to be made by his car- penters, for the King, a large chest for his trea- sury, fourteen feet in length, with several apart- ments, and a separate lid to each apartment, • Was subsequently taken to China by ship Tonquin. TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 55 with a padlock* to each apartment lid. This treasury chest, or reservoir, was engaged by the captain to be filled with an assortment of our articles of trade, to be selected by the King and his attendant chiefs, after the chest should be finished, and painted in a variety of high and gaudy colours; when thus finished, this grand treasury chest was placed in the palace, in a room designated and prepared for it, when each division was filled with suitable articles, of an assortment selected by His Majesty, &c., chiefs' wives and family, and then, when so filled, a new padlock was placed on each lid; the keys, tied in a bunch by a high-coloured silk ribbon, adorned with various coloured beads attached to it, and handed to His Majesty. The treaty was then considered as ready for ra- tification: and the reader may be assured, by what is represented, that, in the opinion of the author, the great Napoleon never felt better, in greater dignity, or in more importance, imme- diately after one of his greatest victories, than * Mr. Brown had learned His Majesty the art of locking and unlocking a padlock, which much delighted his royal person, indeed almost to ecstasy; and he, in his exultation, now affirmed, that not any chief could inspect, or look at his great treasure, without his knowledge and permission. In fact, not one of them possessed ingenuity enough to unlock it, even should the key be put into their hand. 56 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE did His Royal Majesty Tynahoa, on receiving this bunch of keys. All the chiefs shouted by royal signal, and declared him to be now the greatest and richest monarch in their world, and were followed by a shout of thousands of the natives, that seemed to shake their island. A grand council of chiefs was now called, and ordered to assemble forthwith. They promptly assembled in the area, on the green lawn, in the cool shade, and under their valuable bread- fruit trees, in front of the King's palace ; being thus met in council, His Majesty in the centre, on an elevated seat, after a few rapid speeches delivered by several of the chiefs in rotation, in their true native and uncivilized manner and actions, all tending to the blazing forth the great power and riches of their monarch, and how soon he would now conquer all the islands in their world; on a green branch being handed by the King, in person, to the captain, and Cap- tain B. receiving it, the treaty was then con- sidered ratified, and to be kept sacred by both parties. The council being dismissed by His Majesty, broke up, every one going his own way home, after repairing, in apparently per- fect happiness, to the feast prepared by order of the King-consisting of roasted hogs, yams, bread-fruit, &c., and satisfying their wild and voracious appetites. Hereafter it will be seen, TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 57 in the Tonquin's voyage, with what good faith this royal monarch, over an uncivilized mass of beings, and his chiefs and nobles in council, kept this treaty, and finally fulfilled it, as the result will prove, in such good faith as would be very commendable in any civilized monarch. The chiefs evidently, on departing, moved off in new and additional pride of carriage, and they certainly now considered their King by far the most powerful and wealthy monarch in all the Pacific ocean. Our articles of trade here were, first, sperm- whales' teeth, of all sizes; but the larger, the more valuable in their estimation, as they were considered the highest emblem or mark of royal honour and favour. After the tooth was highly polished, a small hole was drilled through the larger end to hang it on the breast, by a ribbon or chord passed round the neck. The next article most valued by them were tokas, made by the armourer, at his forge; they being, in shape or form, merely the blades of adzes and hatchets, without an eye for the helve formed to them. In the room of the eye part, it was made to suit their notion, so as to be lashed to the helve or handle with a strong line, made from the fibres of the palm-tree. Glass bottles, either wine, porter, or square, were next in repute; high coloured calicoes ; 58 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE looking-glasses of all shapes, and small sizes ; bright metal buttons; needles of different sizes; iron spikes and nails ; pieces of old iron-hoop, cut to the length of four to five inches; with a general assortment of ironmongery, principally cutlery, with iron tinned spoons. These com- posed the assortment of our articles of trade at the Feejees, at this time. The invoice of articles of trade put on board the Hope, when she sailed on this voyage from New-York, by which the above purchases and bargains were made and completed, did not amount to but little more than nine hundred dollars. This sandal wood (being one of the articles procured in this trade, as to profit of a fair rate to judge by) brought, at that time, in the Canton market, about thirty cents the pound. Out of this, about one-third of the amount of the proceeds of a cargo was paid into the United States' treasury, on duties on the China goods, obtained in exchange for it in Canton. Thus vast amounts have, by vessels under the command and directive agency of the author, been, by the Pacific and China trade, brought into the American national treasury. TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 59 CH A P T E R VIII. Author's rule of trade in the prohibition of fire-arms-Na- tives of the Feejee Islands — Their cannibalism-Manner of obtaining sandal wood— Music 10 the natives in the wood-saw-Great number of the natives as the ship de- parts-Affection and attachment of the King to the first officer, Mr. Brown-His Majesty's parting with him- Union Massacre Passage-Alarm by the sudden discovery of the ship in shoal witer-Departure from Feejees, and voyage to China-Crossing Equator twice-Equatorial currents—Discovery of Hope Island --Phillipine Islands Their beautiful green appearance--Arrival at Carton Sail for sweet home-Arrival at New-York. The author would here beg leave to remark that, during his command and directive agency, in all the voyages of traffic with these children of nature, he has ever insisted that, when fire- arms, powder and ball, with other of the civil- ized destructive instruments of war, were de- manded and peremptorily insisted on by the chiefs, in barter, to quit their trade sooner than to comply; as there is not a doubt but that these, to them new and destructive instruments, after they and their neighbours have come in possession of some of them, have been the cause of much bloodshed and massacre. 60 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE The natives of the Feejee Islands are, beyond question, cannibals, and even consider their roasted enemies as among their choicest feasts. Mr. Brown, being so much with the Kiny, on one occasion, when an expedition of warriors had just returned from battle and victory, at Nyri, obtained over the Nyri Island natives, and were come with their victorious fleet of war-canoes, at the landing on the bank of the river, discovered among them a large double canoe having, on her deck platform, the bodies of some twenty or more slain enemies. After the King had selected two of the best fed and plumpest, of about twenty years of age, he di- rected them to be taken away to his residence, by his attendants, to be dressed and roasted for his conquering feast. His Majesty then divided, by lot, the remaining number among his prin- cipal chiefs ; which were, in turn, by their at- tendants, taken away with the like directions. We remained here in Sandal Wood Bay, at Toconroba Island, with our ship, trading for and procuring sandal wood, &c., until we not only loaded our own ship, the Hope, but also an English vessel we met here, that touched for refreshments, with a cargo on freight for Canton. We also puid, as per treaty, for a second cargo, for which a ship was to be sent; and made every necessary arrangement with TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 61 the king for placing this second cargo of wood in the treaty as follows, viz: It was to be cut down, and then brought from the mountains during our eighteen moons' absence, and to be cut at right lengths as per sample, deposited with His Majesty, shaved and piled on the small island near the harbour, or road, where our ship was now moored at anchor. Our manner while here of obtaining the san- dal wood, was thus :-On concluding a bargain with the king (the whole of this article being royal property) for a certain quantity, to be de- livered by a stipulated day, at the landing place, on the bank of the river, he would direct a chief to take his men, fifty, more or less in a gang, as the case required, proceed up the mountain, cut down such trees as should be selected by our men from the ship, and bring them trunk and limbs to the landing. The chief dared not for his life but be punctual in performing and accomplishing his task by the time agreed on. With this gang is sent one of the ship's crew, to select the large and sound trees, and, in charge of the saws, axes, and grind-stone, and to direct the sawing down the trees as close to the ground as possible. This sawing off the body with the cross-cut saw, bringing the tree down from the stump, was a highly favourite part of the work, and was fre 6 62 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE quently severely disputed for between the na- tives, owing to the exquisite and delightful mu- sic to them, in the ringing of the saw. In fact, at times, they would dispute so earnestly abou whose turn it was, as to come to a raging grap- ple with each other. It frequently required the authority and interference of their chief to quiet them, and restore harmony. The tree being thus sawed down, it was then trimmed of all its limbs, and the top cut off where, after all the bark and sap should be shaved off, it would leave the heart part of the diameter of about one and a quarter inches. All the limbs were trimmed out in this manner, and the gang con- tinued working on the mountain, sawing down, and trimming out until a sufficient load for the whole gang to carry down to the landing was obtained. Several days were spent at work in the mountain woods at each excursion, before a full load of body and limbs for all the gang, was prepared; they then collected it all at one spot, the chief set off the load for each one, or for three, or five, or more as required; they then shouldered it, and all in Indian file pro- ceeded down the mountain with their burdens the landing place. The ship's men under the directions of the carpenter, and his mates, with some natives to assist, saw and cut the body and limbs to proper lengths of between TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 63 four and five feet, and then shave off, with the drawing knife, all the bark and sap. It is then in merchantable order for shipping on board, and the king is paid for the lot, as has been previously agreed. He then sends it off along- side the ship, and immediately divides the pur- chased articles with the chief, who has with his gang performed the task with his men in pro- curing the wood. September 6th.-Having completed our busi- ness here, and the Hope having now a full cargo on board, we unmoored ship, took up our anchors, bore away, and steered for a leeward passage through the outer sea wall reef. We were surrounded by masses of natives of both sexes making the air ring with their friendly parting shouts; but above all, was the parting between His Majesty and Mr. Brown. The king had become so affectionately attached to him as his adopted son, that he took him again, and again in his arms, and by his parental hugs of embrace raised him from the deck, as if a child. When in his canoe returning for the shore, he kept up the parting signals until beyond sight from the but even then he could be observed from aloft. We were now under all sail, with a fine trade breeze from E.S.E. and pleasant weather, steering across the bay, and out through the passage in the main reef by what I thought deck; 64 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE properly named Union Passage, because on one of its reefy points the ship Union was so unfor- tunately wrecked, and all on board of her, but the Tonga pilot perished, or were massacred by these cannibals as soon as they obtained a footing on any dry part of the outer wall reef. Precisely at noon we passed safely through Union Passage, when Sandal Wood Road bore E.N.E. distant 3 leagues, and at same time the east chop of Sandal Wood Bay, which I named Sandy Hook Point (which it so much resem- bles) bore east, distant four miles. We were now engaged in clearing up the decks, lashing water casks, &c., in sea preparation. September 7th.-At 3, P. M., Levo Callow Island was in sight bearing W.N.W. distant 7 leagues, and now a fresh trade wind and a heavy rolling sea accompanied us. This made it necessary to reduce the ship's canvass to her double-reefed topsails. At 8, P. M., I thought it prudent to bring the ship to the wind, and to spend the night on short tacks, keeping her throughout the night as near the spot we now were as possible. At 6, A. M., bore away and made sail, when immediately after, the officer on the look out station aloft, gave the alarm call, that our ship was over discoloured water, and on casting my eye over the rail I could plainly see the bottom composed of coral rocks, TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 65 to appearance about four fathoms of water: I instantly ordered the ship to be brought to the wind to make a board off to a clear sea again, when in a few minutes, in short, before the ship's sails were fairly trimmed to the wind, we were out of danger or had lost sight of the bot- tom, and to appearance, were again off sound- ings. When the ship was on the shoal Levo Callow bore W.N.W. distant 6 leagues, and the centre of Antua Island, E. N. distant 8 leagues. At noon Levo Callow bore E. by S. S. distant 3 leagues, at which time the ship's latitude was 16° 41'S. September 8th.–At 2, P. M., Levo Callow bore S.E. by E. distant 7 leagues. At sun set- ting, strong gale, with cloudy thick weather. I thought it again prudent to haul the ship on the wind, and to spend the night under close- reefed topsails, with the endeavour during it, to keep her as near her present station as possi- ble. At 6, A. M., bore away and made all sail on our course for Canton in China. Variation at this time 12° 9' east. September 17th. At 4, P. M., the look-out aloft gave out the sound of “Land, ho!” which proved to be two high islands lying east and west of each other. One bore N. by E. and the other N, by E. E. distant 7 leagues. Our latitude at this time was 12° 25' south, and at 6* 66 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE the north-westward of the westernmost of those two islands, we observed a small island or islet, in its appearance very much like the Eddy Stone off Van Diemen's Land. These being wide to the windward of our course, and night closing in upon us, we have nothing farther to remark relative to them; and as it is somewhat doubtful, as to their being a new discovery I did not give them a name. September 26th. — Our situation this day brings us near to the brink of crossing the equator the second time, out of the four cross- ings we shall have to make during our voyage. The weather ever since our departure from the Feejee Archipelago has been so cloudy and thick as to prevent our lunar sights until this day, when by two sets of very good observa- tions, the mean of them gave the ship's longi- tude to be 163° 42' 20" east, and her latitude 1° 33' south, and variation 10° east, our longitude by celestial observations differing about four degrees from our longitude by account in this short run from the Feejees. This shows that we must, and very recently, I judge, have had an unaccountably strong current* to have set * Subsequently in the ship Cadmus, bound for Calcutta, on crossing the equator in about the eighty-eighth degree of east longitude, in the Indian Ocean, I met with, and experienced the like currents. R. B. 68 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE 1 1 nearing it, we plainly discovered the two ele- vations to be joined by low land. At noon the centre of the land bore west N. distant 5 leagues, and I place it in latitude 5° 15' north, and longitude 165° 17' east of London. It not appearing on any chart, or in any book in my possession I consider it a new discovery, and have named it, Hope's Island. Sunday, October 25th.-We were in sight of the Phillipine Islands, Say-pan, Tinian and Agrigan; but after so long an absence from our much-beloved country, and being very anx- ious to meet with our friends whom we expect- ed to find in Canton, we did not stop to obtain and partake of the many excellent articles said to be procured at those beautifully green look- ing islands. Having a fresh and fair trade wind we passed them, with mouths watering, and proceeded on, with all despatch.--I place An- son's Road in Tinian, in latitude 15° 01' north, longitude 145° 47' east. November 9th, 1807.-We had sight of To- bago-Sima, and soon after, the high-peaked mountain on Formosa. In a short time we passed the Vela Retta rocks, south of them at three miles distance. At 6, P. M., the south end of Formosa bore N.N.E., distant 9 leagues. November 12th.—On this day we obtained sight of the land, and islands off the coast of 1 TO THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. 69 China, passed several fleet of fishing craft, and on arriving among the islands we obtained a pilot for Macoa. After touching there, we proceeded up the river to Whampoa, where we had the gratification of meeting our friends, and receiving our letters, and news from home. After exchanging our cargo we received on board a cargo of teas and other China goods. December 27th.--We sailed from Whampoa for home, “sweet home.”—Nothing unusual occurred during our passage, and we arrived safe at New-York on the 3d of May, 1808, with, it is believed, a perfectly satisfactory voyage to all concerned.- We now learned that a stern, and rigid embargo was in force through- out the United States. CH A P T E R VIII. A list of the native names of sixty-four of the principal islands of the Archipelago of the Feejee group, with remarks. Fatoa, (Turtle) Allakippa, Honghare Lili, Ιαα, , Honghare Levo, laa Livi, Folongaa, Uheda, Henghare, Body, Annamooka, Nahow, Henghasaw Levo, Gorroo, Mertta, Waanewawattee, 70 VOYAGE OF THE HOPE, etc. Marraboo, Chucheeah, Cabbarria, Dabuctah, Voangabba, Wattaharra, Ollarwa, (saddle) Dedea, Como, Omango, Cannaetah, Nyri, Wattaharre-nahow, Volkkia, Kyerratta, Ohohia Lavo, Gerroa, Onhow, Freenoo, Battika, Dudua, Gorrobou, Foona, Batallie, Toconroba, Volahue, Vakkia, Booyee, Gorra, Levo-Callow, Niroa, Antua, Bakiky, Assavo, Woohiah, Ambow, Nyengany, Hongasaw, Vohia, Direction-Island, (by us Ohohia, Lili, so named) Mahhini, Honghary, Ohokia, Furia. (This is a very Bollowhu, high, mountainous Mackini, island, and I pre- Onratta, sume has been a volcano.) REMARKS.—There is also in this group a number of small islands, and islets, the native names of which were not ob- tained, and of course are not noticed in this list. PART II. SKETCH DESCRIPTIVE OF THE WHALE CHASE, SHOW. ING THE DANGER, AND DARING BRAVERY OF THE OFFICERS AND SEAMEN IN ATTACKING AND CON. QUERING THESE MONSTERS OF THE DEEP, TOGE- THER WITH THE PROCESS OF CUTTING IN, &c., &c. CHAPTER I. Whale chase-Danger in fastening to-Condition of the whale-Whalers' preference to full grown-These most troublesome-Sounding of the whale—The signal_Break- water roar of the monster-Terrific scene—Snowy foam of the sea—Fatal stroke-Sea of blood-His dying Aurry -Life extinct—Huge inanimate mass on the surface of the sea—Lamentable end of poor Bob His character. THE ship being on the whaling ground in the right season, and when on the earnest hunting chase in those beautiful alert craft, the whale boats, the danger in fastening, and killing a whale is by no means at all times equal. On some occasions they are killed without hardly an effort, or struggle, at others two or three hours elapse before this can be effected, owing mostly to the nature of the whale's condition, whether plump and thriving, or lank and lean, and also partly to the chance of fastening. - 72 WHALE CHASE Whalers most generally prefer fastening to a full grown, or old whale, if a well fed one, as he is less inclined to give battle than a younger one. A right, or black whale, that will yield about forty barrels of oil is in general the most troublesome. When fastened to by the thrust of the iron (harpoon) to which the line is fast, he, (if in deep water) immediately sounds, tak- ing out of the boat from sixty to eighty fathoms, or more of line. At these depths he remains until want of air forces him to the surface again, which usually will be about thirty mi- nutes. Care must be now taken to prevent him from coming up under and staving the boat. The line as he rises is hauled in, and carefully coiled in the stern sheets of the boat, the men (in vulgar phrase) being wide awake, ready at their oars for the least signal. When the rush- ing sound of the water, accompanied by the roar of the monster announce his arrival to the surface, the word is given by the officer to haul The bow-man now prepares his lance, the boat is hauled by the warp as close as pos- sible to the whale, and the lance vigorously plied in thrusts, by darts. The whale unable as yet to sound, becomes infuriated by the re- peated thrusts of the lance, and a scene com- mences, of which only those who have wit- nessed it, can have any idea. The huge mon- on. AND VOYAGES. 73 ster of the deep galled and rendered mad with pain, cuts through the water with amazing ve- locity, now this way, now that, requiring all the skill of the officers, and exertions of the men to manage the boat so as to avoid him, and his enor- mous flukes (finned tail) lash the water into a snowy foam. Soon after the blood spouting from his lanced wounds, stains with blood the sea around him; and now and then a thundering roar is heard as the lance of his tormenters ago gravates his pain. At last the fatal stroke and wound is given, when his life's blood is spout- ed on high. Seeing this, the boats are laid off from him, so as to be out of his way, when he goes into his flurry, or dying agonies. This soon comes on; his huge body is agitated; he lashes the surface of the sea, incessantly, and is surrounded with a thick, bloody foam. His efforts become gradually weaker; when, on a sudden, they cease, and the late living body lies a huge inanimate mass on the surface of the ocean. On one of those chases, and anx- ious slaughtering attacks, we had before our eyes, the following melancholy and painful 00- This was the lamentable misfor- tune to lose one of our crew, a harpooner, by a whale. Poor Bob! he was a first-rate, and uncommonly expert whaler; nevertheless, fate, it seems, had decreed, that his time had come. currence. 7 74 A WHALE CHASE He was truly an excellent man, at all times wil- ling, and pleasant; ' beloved by all on board, and out of all the crew no one could have been taken whose loss would have been more felt. He was a first-rate seaman, as well as a courageous whaler; in short, such a valuable man as is always much wanted, and seldom found aboard ship. As such his loss was severely felt.- He was suddenly taken from out the boat over- board by the warp attached to the preventer, the harpoon fouling some part of his body, or limbs (his arm, it was supposed) while performing his duty as harpooner. In the act of darting the preventer iron, he was seen to go over board, when the line was immediately cut, in the hope of picking him up; but in vain, we never saw him more. Poor Bob ! his death must have been speedy, as the whale was then sounding at a fast rate. CH A P T E R II. Cutting in the whale-Cutting gear—Manner of cutting in- Blubber blankets Mincing blubber-Trying out oil- Whale bone-Average quantity to a fish. WHEN a whale is about to be cut in (or in other words,) stripped of his fat, or blubber, he is taken alongside the vessel with his head AND VOYAGES. 75 towards her stern, and the cutting gear is then prepared. This gear consists of two wind- tackle falls, the straps of the blocks being tog- gled through their bights to pendants from the mainmast-head. These pendants are then guyed forward so as to bring the falls directly over the main, or blubber hatch. The ends of the falls are then brought to the windlass, and three or four turns taken round it with each end, a stopper being in readiness to clap on ei- ther fall. A man now jumps upon the whale, places a strap on his fin, and the fall is attach- ed to it. The whale is then hove by it. side up, and the fall stoppered; small stages are placed outside the gunnel on which stand the officers about to cut the blubber, provided with sharp spades fastened on the shaft, eight or ten feet long. The head with the bone attached to it is now cut off and hove in, with the other fall, and placed aft on the deck. The fall is then overhauled down again, and the throat, lips, and tongue are next hove in, and lowered down the hatch between decks. The other fall is then attached to the end piece hove on, and a strip of fat with the skin, or blubber (as it is termed) from four to five feet wide is hoisted up, the officers on the stages constantly cutting with their spades on each side of the piece, or strip until the fall is høve block, and block. The 76 A WHALE CHASE stopper is now passed, the other fall overhaul ed down, and a slít, or hole cut in the blubber piece for a new end (or as it is called in the blanket piece) with a boarding knife. The bight of the block strap is passed through, and a toggle through it, and the fall is hove on as soon as it takes the strain. The blubber of the blanket piece of the first tackle is cut through, and off above the toggle slit, with the same large knife. The blubber piece, or blan- ket thus cut off is lowered down the hatch into the blubber room; and so on, one fall relieving the other, rolling the fish over and hoisting in the blubber, until all is stripped off. The blub- bér blankets are then cut up into small pieces, taken to the large table, and the lean attached to the fat flinched off. They are then minced, and thus made ready for the try pots. The try pots are started in the trying by pouring about a barrel of oil, into each pot, or kettle, and then kindling a fire in the furnace beneath. When this oil is sufficiently heated, the minced blubber is thrown in, and in about the space of half an hour it will be sufficiently boiled. It is then baled off with the ladle, leaving 40 to 50 gallons in each pot, (these pots hold from 150 to 180 gallons.) The scraps are taken out with a skimmer into a scrap tub, and tho kettles are then ready for a fresh supply, which is im- AND VOYAGES. 77 mediately thrown in. After 'the kettles are heated by the first turn, the oil boils out much quicker. If good blubber and well tried the scraps will be chip dry, and the scraps con- stantly supply the work with ample fuel, With such sized kettles well attended, about fifteen barrels of oil can be boiled out of a fair lot of blubber, in a six hours' watch, making an aver- age of say 50 barrels in 24 hours. The oil is baled from the pots into a copper cooler fitted with a strainer, from which it passés into the deck pot, and is baled from thence into the casks. The casks should be well shrunk, twice or more filled for this purpose with hot oil, un- til they have stopped shrinking. When well coopered, after being finally and thoroughly thus shrunk, with hot oil, they will retain the oil safe home without loss by leakage. The whale bone generally averages 800 pounds to a hundred barrels of oil, some whales over a thousand weight, others again only four or five hundred, the bone is cut out at its upper end, from the lower part of the head, eight or ten slabs at a time. Each slab, is then cut sepa- rately apart, and scraped, the gum extracted, and then stowed away below. Particular care should be taken to have the slabs dry when stowed, as otherwise they would be very likely to damage, and perhaps if stowed away not dry ry* 78 ROOK OF THE $ be entirely spoiled, or at least much damaged, during the long passage home. The whale is an affectionate creature to its kind. It nurses its young like the cow-and while in tender infancy, basking with its mo- ther at the surface of their element, if an alarm affrights her, she immediately takes her young under her fin, and instantly dives to a prudent depth. When going through the water, partly on her side with her glistening round eye she looks up to the surface, as she swims along, as it appears, with the endeavour to discover the cause of the danger. If the alarm has been given by a boat, and the boat is within view, over her, she keeps her eye, as it were rivetted on it, as long as it remains within her sight. J. E. B. CH A P T E R III. Rook of the Falklands—Its sagacious, saucy cunning-Its size and colour—Its strength and gripe of claws--Its shrewdness in watching--Its seemingly intelligent lan- guage-Mischievous thievery-A glove chase and fail- ure-Superior knowledge of the bird. 1 AMONG the great variety of the feathered race at the Falkland Islands, the rook is the FALKLANDS. 79 most sagacious and cunning. Its wise and fox-like actions are astonishing, and, without personal observation, almost beyond belief : The rook is about the size of the grouse, of a black or dark-brown colour; its beak and legs of a light yellow; its beak is of iron strength for a nip, and the gripe of its talons are truly death-like. In all parts of those Islands, those who land from their boat, will surely, the mo- ment that they step foot on shore, be sur- rounded and accompanied by a look-out flock, as sentries, canting their head one way and the other, with their scrutinizing eye, as if to pierce your very thoughts and intentions. They are, apparently, very earnest and mis- chievous, watching your every motion, and as you advance forward they will accompany you, hopping and flying from prominences of rock, or bog, watching your actions with an eye of piercing attention, and a sage look. They will examine, after you, every minute article or thing you may stop to observe or inspect. If you disturb a turf by turning, or perforate the surface, or make an excavation in the soil or earth, as soon as you have left it, the rook will immediately examine the spot, with eye, beak, and talons, in the most minute manner, making at same time, in their squalling language to each other, a cackling, screaming noise, with 80 ROOK OF THE head and neck stretched up, which they appear perfectly to understand. If you happen to lay down and leave your knife, or other article, by the spot, they will promptly seize and make sure possession of it and carry it off; and ex- cept you give chase as they retreat and thereby obtain now and then a sight of it in their claws or beak, (which they will readily exhibit from time to time in the chase, and seem to delight in it, as they constantly retreat and' tantalize you, keeping at a proper distance,) you may be sure this is all and the last you will ever see of it:--there is no remedy, unless you hap- pen to have with you your gun charged to shoot the vexatious and impertinent thief in- stantly. One of our sportsmen had shot a number of geese on landing, and left them in the bows of the boat during our perambulation; when, on our return, to our utter astonishment, our boat was surrounded by a large company of those depredators, mostly keeping in pairs, each by his mate, eternally crying kā kā- kā! -as if ridiculing our credulity. Nothing was left but the feathers and bones of the geese, which were strewed about in every direction. They are not only flesh-eaters, but are the greatest gormandizers and gluttons imagina- ble. Here I will mention one evidence among hundreds of the like, of the rook's superior sa- FALKLANDS. 81 gacity:-On'a fine, calm, pleasant morning, the author landed from his ship in the jolly- boat, accompanied only by the steward and apprentice-boy. On walking directly up the green bank, attended, of course, by the usual company of rooks on guard, I fell in with a patch of wild potatoes, growing spontaneously among the green grass, the tops of their vines being a few inches above it. I laid my woollen glove on the rock, taking up a bit of a stick to dig and examine the size of their roots. Al- though engaged not two yards from my glove, before I was aware, and as quick as thought, up ran Mr. Rook, snatched up the glove, flew a few rods with it, then lit on a bog, laid the glove down by him, and looked back at me with an arch-like, mischievous eye ;-as if in- tending to say, "I have out-generalled you this time; and now, get your glove again if can!” In his exultation, he was joined by his mate, and they commenced conversa- tion in their screams of kā, --kā,--kā! Being much vexed, with my two aids, we started on an attack, with stones, not having with me my fowling-piece. On getting within two or three rods of him, he would pick up the glove and hop, run, or fly, some five or eight rods, then rest on bog, or rock, and lay down, by his side, the glove again, and then wait, in screams of you can!” 82 ROOK OF THE exultation, our fire of stones, hove by myself, steward, and boy. Thus fleeting on for up- wards of a mile, this cunning bird fooled us, certainly in the distance, more than fifty times, until he completely tired out our force, and obliged us to give up the chase, and to leave him and his companion in possesion of their stol- en prize. We had no remedy, but were forced to put up with their taunts and sarcastic eye- ings towards us, seemingly much to their high gratification. Thus dishonoured by the loss of the glove and victory, we returned to our boat, and on board ship, well tired out by the unsuccessful chase. In fact, the Falkland Rook is, unquestiona- bly, the most knowing, mischievous, and saucy bird among the feathered race;—and gives to the way-worn sailors much vexatious trouble, during their hunting and sealing excursions. If a knife and steel, a powder-horn, round- about jacket, or other article, which they are able to take away in their claws, or beak, be laid down by their side, unattended but for a minute, as they are ever on the watch, it will be seized by the rook and carried off. Without the charged gun in hand, it will be very difficult ever to obtain the article again. On committing the theft they will call each other and gather around it on rock, or bog, FALKLANDS. 83 scrutinizing it, with sageness on their visage, and their sharp, bright, piercing eye, with a sarcastic look, first at you, then on the article they have stolen, and so on as long as you are near by, wishfully desirous to re-possess your property, and, ever and anon at such times, are accompanied with their croaking screams, directed to each other :-It is truly the sapient fox, among the winged race. PART III. NARRATIVE SKETCH OF A VOYAGE OF THE SHIP TONQUIN, UNDER THE COMMAND OF THE AUTHOR, TO THE CHINA SEA, IN THE YEARS 1807-1808. CH A P T E R I. Building of the ship-Great despatch in performance-oc- currence on the wild coast of Java--A terrific savage- A white boy to roast-Fright of boy Bill--Secret retreat in a bread cask-Investigation of a singular affair. The Tonquin, this beautifully modelled and first-rate ship, was built by those well-known ship-wrights, Messrs. Adam and Noah Brown, at their ship-yard, in New-York city, for the China trade, under the superintendence and inspection of the author. She was double- flush decked, and pierced for 22 guns, and proved a fast sailing vessel, of speed, perhaps, equal to any sloop of war of the navy. Her burthen was rather under 300 tons, and her keel was laid on the blocks on the first day of March, 1807. She was launched, and sailed from the port of New-York for China, on the 26th day of May, 1807, under the command VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN. .85 and direction of the author, and arrived back at the same port from her,voyage to Canton, with a full cargo of China goods, March 6th, 1808. Thus she was built, coppered, rigged, launc'ied, and performed her voyage to China and back, in the short space of 12 months and 6 days from the day her keel was laid on the blocks. -Impressed with this, I believe that it is doubtful, if there be an instance on record of such singularly unexampled skill and despatch of performance in the ship-wright business, and nautical management, of or from any country or nation existing, as in the case of this ship, on this, her construction and voyage. What transpired and occurred, other than what would be expected on a similar ordinary voy- age to Canton and back, during this voyage in the Tonquin, is hereby related in the following, viz: A singular affair when off the wild coast of Java,—and also the transactions mentioned and met with on the passage up the China sea, and while at Canton. On our passage out, after entering the Strait of Sunda, our ship had arrived abreast of a bay, on the Java shore, a short distance east- ward of Mew Island. During the night in a calm, she was set by the current in shore, into such shoal water, that it became prudent to 8 86 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN bring her to an anchor at a short distance, somewhat less than a mile, from the shore of this wild native coast. When morning came we found our ship situated thus, near the shore. As soon as broad day-light came, the natives, observing the ship so near, riding at anchor, an opportunity so inviting to them, came off in their canoes; but all, save one, keeping just without hailing distance. That one contained only a single native, whom we presumed to be a chief, as he was gaudily dressed, and accoutred with a feather cap, mounted on his cranium, with waving plumes stuck in or attached to it, made of the feathers plucked from that courageous monarch of the barn-yard, the male domestic fowl. His face was painted in streaks, or characters, with colours of red and white. Thus beautified, his jet-black teeth, contrasted with his blood-red lips ;-he was truly savage! In fact, his whole appearance was wild and fantastic in- deed ; and while, according to their custom and habit of sitting with much native pride, thus accoutred in his canoe, which had a line fast to the ship's quarter, he was thus situated when the author came on deck. On emerging from the companion gang- way, I observed the first officer, Mr. Mackay, a very worthy nautical citizen, as well as of a TO THE CHINA SEA. 87 very pleasant disposition, leaning over the quarter-railing, and endeavouring, by signs, &c., to barter with this singularly adorned native in the canoe, for the fowls, fruit, &c., he had brought off. Close by the officer's side, on tiptoes, to enable him to see over the rail, peep- ing over it, with his eyes rivetted on the savage in the canoe, was my apprentice-boy Bill, an active, quick, observing child, now only in his eighth year. On my observing to Mr. Mackay, " What have we here, and what does this bar- barian want?” he answered, “à native, sir, from this wild coast; and it seems he has come off from the shore to trade-I am trying to barter with him for the refreshments he has, brought off;" then dryly adding, "he appears disposed not to be willing to receive any thing for them which we can conveniently spare, but wants and insists upon a white boy to roast!"-Bill, on hearing these words, looked up at the first officer, much affrighted, and then at me, with a most pitiful countenance :- observing the boy in such affright, and to put him at his ease again, I said kindly to him, "Never you mind, Bill, what this savage-look- ing fellow wants; if you continue to be, as heretofore, a smart and good-behaved boy, neither he nor any other man-eating savage shall have you to roast, not if he would give 88 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN us our ship full of gold, --nor for all the fowls and fruit the whole race of them on shore can produce; therefore keep your mind easy, and go to your duty with the steward.” Bill made his bow, with thanks, and marched off to the steward's room. At that time, nothing more was thought or said on the subject. The bar- ter being soon finally accomplished with the native, he paid, and the fowls, fruit, &c., re- ceived on board, a breeze springing up from off the land, the ship was immediately got un- der way, and the natives all left us for the shore, our ship steering out of the bay. At eight bells, the steward came to set the break- fast table, (a part of the boy Bill's duty being to keep the knives and forks scoured bright,) and now wanting the knives and forks, no Bill was to be found! On the alarm being given that he was missing, the ship was thoroughly searched fore and aft, below and aloft, but no boy Bill could be found, or any answer obtain- ed, to the loud calls on his name. In this dilemma, painful as it was to my own feelings, and to those of the officers, particularly of Mr. Mackay, I presume there was not one on board, but now felt for the loss of poor boy Bill. Being thus painfully disappointed, after our thorough search throughout every part of the ship, we were forced to come to the conclus TO THE CHINA SEA. 89 sion, that the boy, in or during the usual bustle of weighing anchor, had, unobserved, got knocked, or fallen overboard, and was drowned. This sad conclusion of ours was then fully believed by us all; and it was heart: rending to myself and officers, thus to lose out sprightly boy. In this belief we remained until the after noon of the third day, when, to our very agreeable surprise, the enigma was explained, by the boy Bill appearing in full life before our view! and all were relieved from distressful feelings, because Bill was alive and among us again. On investigating this very remarkable and singular affair, it appeared, that, after making the land, (Java Head,) on the day previous to anchoring, in the evening after passing the Head, and entering the strait, the seamen in their circle on the forecastle, had been relating their tough-yarns, relative to the kind of peo- ple which inhabited this land, to which the ship was now so near. Such an extensive country of mountains and valleys, covered by a wilder- ness of forest trees, in such green, and luxuri- ous appearance must have numerous inhabi- tants of some kind of people; and some two or three of their number that had passed along here before, declared that they were savages of 8* 90 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN the worst kind, and known to be man-eaters. Nothing could please them so well, as they had been informed, as to have a fat, well-fed white person, to roast, or bake in the ground, after their manner of cooking, to make a good meal, in their gormandizing cannibal feasts. To this tough-yarn, the boy Bill (unknown to the au- thor until subsequently after the embezzlement of himself) had been an attentive listener. And when he placed himself in the morning by the side of the first officer, to have a view of the savage in his canoe, he had asked what that ugly looking fellow wanted. Mr. Mackay jo- cosely answered him, “the fellow, Bill, is en- deavouring to make me understand, that he wants a white boy to roast.” Just at this mo- ment the author stepped up to join them from the cabin gang-way, as before related, and ad- dressed to Mr. M. his inquiry : Bill was then sent away to the steward's room. Knowing that the steward some few days previous, in replenishing his bread room, had taken a moiety of the bread out of a large bread cask, and headed up the cask again, a side piece of the heading which had got broken, having been flung aside, and not put again in its place, in the heading of it up, Bill remembered, that in this condition the cask had been stowed back in its berth again among its fellows, in the TO THE CHINA SEA. 91 ship’s waist below deck, and had left a break- age of a few inches between its deficient brok- en head, and the next cask, in the longer, or tier forward of it, just sufficient for him to squeeze his body through, and into the nulledge bread cask. On the steward's leaving him in his room, the morning he was missing, to go on deck at the time the ship was getting under way, Bill as he subsequently confessed, did not feel perfectly safe, or surely certain (his own words) but that the ugly looking savage, might yet persuade us to deliver him up or succeed in getting him to roast. It made him, he said, feel dreadfully horrible, (still all his own words) notwithstanding what the author had said to encourage, to cheer up, and also assur- ed him he had nothing to fear, had not the in- tended effect, as the trouble on his mind. All this induced him, nevertheless, on thinking of the bread cask to promptly repair to it, and stów himself in, while the steward was on deck. He went therefore and crept into the nulledge cask, and did not answer when called to, as he feared the ugly savage would not be gone. Here secreted he had subsisted on the bread, cautiously coming out in the dead, or still time of the night to the steward's pitcher for a drink of water, and quickly back again to his hiding place. Thus sly, he had remained undiscover- 92 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN 1 1 1 ed until this afternoon, being the third day of his being missing; when the steward on pro- ceeding with the cooper and his gang, to re- cruit again his store of bread in the bread room, on parbuckling out, and unheading this nul- ledge cask, behold, there was discovered, sit- ting with his chin on his knees, monkey like, our lost, supposed drowned, and missing boy Bill, who pertly looked up as if nothing unu- sual had occurred, as if nothing had taken place out of the ordinary and daily course of affairs. He quickly asked the steward, before moving to get out, if that ugly Indian was gone. CHAPTER 11. Ship arrives at Macoa—A speck of war-A typhoon—Bri- tish squadron-Pools Sapata and Baltimore Company ship -Raging sea--Singular effect of Change of the mon- soon--Passage up the Tygris - Commodore Pelew-His declaration--State of war -President and U. S. consul- Unpleasant state of affairs-Author's determination to put to sea-Chinese pilot, and bout—The agreement. 1 On our ship's arrival at Macoa, we found the state of affairs rather war-like, between our countrymen, the Americans, and English; which, it was said, had been caused by an at- tempt, by the order of the commander of a TO THE CHINA SEA. 93 British brig of war, to press the men out of an armed American Baltimore schooner. This brought on a battle between them, in which the captain of the schooner was reported to have been slain, as also a lieutenant of the brig, with some few men on both sides. The schooner was carried, and taken by boarding, and sent to Calcutta. This the author found to be the situation of affairs on anchoring in the road at Macoa. On referring back I would here remark, that on our passage across and up the China sea, we experienced one of those violent Typhoons, to which this sea is subject, in which at some degrees to the north-east of our situation at the time of its greatest violence, and nearer to the China coast than our ship then was, were a British squadron consisting of two frigates, and a sloop of war; also, in their company were two East India ships, with an American ship belonging to Boston, which were, by the infor- mation we subsequently received, all dismast- ed in this Typhoon. The smaller 36 . gun fri- gate, it was said, worked much in her frame, by the effect of the storm and sea, and the weight of her metal, she having at one time, as report stated, ten feet water in her hold, and was forced to throw overboard, as : a sacrifice to Neptune, monarch of the ocean, for their 94 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN 1 H safety, and as a contribution to His Majesty's element, the greatest part of her guns, to enable them to free her, prevent her from foundering, and survive the Typhoon; with regard to ourselves on passing the Island of Poloo Sa- pata, and entering the China sea, we had then the commencement of this gale and violent storm from the west-south-west, at which time, while our ship was scudding on her course un- der a reefed foresail, we passed under the stern of the Baltimore China Company's ship, which was at the time lying to under her storm sails, and which did not, by such plan of procedure or judgment, arrive in Canton until forty-three days after our ship. This gale having increas- ed into the Typhoon, and thereby changed the monsoon in the China sea, and settled it, in the opposite one, blew from the north-east quarter of the compass, in a steady wind, of course, in seaman's phrase, dead-a-head, or, after the gale and Typhoon were over, directly against the Baltimore ship's course which was to pass up across the China sea. On the contrary, by our improving it, and scudding before this fair gale, we run our ship across the Mackles- field Bank, and thus secured our passage. During the heaviest part of the Typhoon, we were crossing over the northern part of the Macklesfield Bank, and at this time our good TO THE CHINA SEA. 95 little ship was ploughing the surface of the foaming and raging sea, as buoyantly and as lively as a duck. The Typhoon was now blowing from the point of compass S.S.W. and driving us along at the rate of ten or eleven miles per hour. Our top-gallant-yards were on deck, the masts housed, all steering- sail booms down on deck from off the yards, and every sail was furled, and double stopped, or bound to the yards with double gasketing, and additional lines. Every thing was as snug as our skill and rupe lashings could make them, and not a yard or stitch of canvass was set. Thus snug, and thus swiftly were we gliding along over the foaming surface, and as it were flying before the raging elements; yet we nevertheless experienced while going at this rate during the space of about fourteen hours, the following extraordinary fact, which I had never before observed. This was the uncom- mon force and singular effect of the motion of the raging seas, which would break against our alert ship’s stern in such a manner, with such violent rage, and with such giant-like force, as to sweep over her tafferel and roll forward on the deck over and over, as on 'a beach. Generally each foaming sea broke at the au- thor's station by the wheels-man. Secured by rope to assist the cun, two resolute, cool, and 96 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN thorough bred tars, were at the wheel. Here it was about middle-waist deep, as it broke over the tafferel and rolled forward. These strokes of white wave force were so great, and of such weight when they broke against the ship’s stern, that they dashed the yawl boat, in her tackles against the stern, so as to bring the boat's gunwales so near together, as to be but half their correct distance apart, driving the ends of her thawts, or plank seats through her sides. When our ship thus received these strokes of the sea or wave, she would tremble, in common saying, like an aspen leaf, in the wind, but still like a good race horse of ster- ling bottom would keep alert on her legs; as a sportsman would say. The Cun.—To the helmsman,-Steady,-- steady, sir,-port,-port, sir,--steady,-steady, sir, —-starboard-starboard, sir,--port steady, -steady, sir,—that's well-done, my good fel- lows,-and keep a sharp eye at the swing of her bows,-ay-ay, sir, starboard hard a-star- board,-hard a-starboard, sir,-port steady,- steady, sir,—that's handsome, my lads, cheerly, cheerly, our good bark glides over the moun- tain wave like a duck, be careful to keep your quids,* my brave fellows, like true tars, on the * Jack Tar's mouthful of negro head tobacco, not over the size of a hen's egg. TO THE CHINA SEA. 97 right side, and she will carry us safe, rely on it: When the Typhoon ceased, the wind during it, having gradually veered around to the south- south-east, and to east, it fell calm, for a few hours, leaving with us an ugly cross sea, in which our ship was now compelled to labour, and making it very uncomfortable for us on board, she wallowing, rolling, and jerking, as if to strain every bolt, and yarn out of its place. However, we had now the satisfaction to com- fort us, that during the violent Typhoon, we had escaped from all damage of note, saved our masts and spars, and had the good fortune to run our ship up the China séa, to a station in the north-east part of it. This secured our prompt passage to Canton, against the north- east monsoon, when it should set in ; which it soon did, as we had conjectured. It set in with à regular monsoon breeze springing up from the north-east, when we made sail and steered in for the China coast; as our ship passed along, we had a view of the Island of Pedro Banca. After passing it, and on arriving near the Lema Islands, we obtained a pilot for Ma- coa, who brought the ship at anchor in the road abreast of that city. Early the next morning, the author, by the aid of his boat, paid a visit to that city for the purpose of procuring (ac- eording to the China custom) a river pilot for 9 98 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN the ship to Whampoa, and a Mandarin pass for Canton, which for every ship or vessel bound up the river must be here first procured. As soon as these were accomplished, the author returned on board, and the Chinese pilot shortly after came off on board, when our ship was immediately got under way, moving on her passage up the river Tygris. On passing the British squadron consisting at this time of two frigates, a sloop, and brig. of war at anchor at Lin-ting, a boat with a lieutenant, and a petty officer came alongside our ship and the officers stepped promptly on board. In the instant after the shake of the hand, the lieutenant, cast an eye aloft, then fore and aft, and turning to the author with a look of much surprise in his countenance, said: “Had you not the Typhoon ?” “Yes, sir, in its highest rage, I believe.” “How the da then did you contrive to save your masts, our ships were all dismasted, and we had our hands fully employed to keep them above wa- ter,—there is also a countryman of yours here, a Bostonian, that was dismasted in it, who is now at anchor at an island below; but, by the lion, I cannot see about your ship a yarn stranded, or spar injured. Why, my good sir, your ship appears as if just out of your home port.” We had in the short space of good wea- TO THE CHINA SEA. 199 ther since the Typhoon, painted and slicked up our ship to enter port to the credit of America, and now she was all-a-taunto, with sky-sail yards aloft. “Thank you, sir, for your com- pliment; we scud our ship throughout the Typhoon, she behaved like a good boat, and did our duty in the best manner, to prevent her being wounded.” “Well, sir, you will not be offended; but I must remark, Yankees, as you are, your ship gives us a rare evidence of Ame- rican seamanship." After attending to the examination of our men, and finding them all Americans, they very politely wished us a safe passage up the river, and took their depar- ture. Our ship now proceeded up through the Bocca, and passed the forts, at this place located at the chops, and on an island at the river's mouth. We kept on, steering up the river to the anchorage at Whampoa Island, which is about ten miles from the city of Canton. Not long after our arrival here, an occur- rence took place, which produced much un- pleasant and acrimonious feeling between the English and Americans. It was reported to have arisen on account of some observations relating to the capture of the Baltimore schoon- er heretofore mentioned, which Commodore Pelew had heard of; and which, as it was told 100 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN him, and as it was asserted by the Americans, supported by their consul at Çanton, was much against British honour. Commodore Pelew, the eldest son of Admiral Lord Exmouth, the senior officer in command of the British fleet of men of war on this station, induced by this, in- tended, as was said, to make war on the Ame- ricans. In corroboration, he sent word up to Canton, that he would soon come up to Wham- poa, with the boats of his fleet, and capture every American vessel there. On learning this the Americans at that anchorage, being eleven sail, mustered their forces, supercargoes, eaptains, officers, and men of their fleet, at a collected meeting, to decide what was best to be done. Not feeling inclined by any threat to tamely submit, it was resolved, and agreed to by all to stand by, support and defend each other to the last, and to use every honourable endeavour and means, to protect their persons and property, come what might of the threat (if true) sent up by the commodore. They de- termined to defend their ships with the stern- est courage, and with true Yankee spirit to the last. On this resolve every thing was promptly and properly organized. A first and second commodore to the American fleet, were named and authorized by vote, with all other necessary TO THE CHINA SEA. I 101. officers, and instantly commenced training and disciplining the whole force of the American ships' crews. Two of the ships were selected and agreed upon as first and second commodore to the feet, which two were dropped down, and moored in channel-way, half-a-mile below the others. A full complement of men, with addi- tional battery train; ample ammunition, small arms, &c., were taken from the other ships, and put on board of those of the commodores. Likewise the officers and crews of all the ships were organized into divisions, and regular day and night sentries set, and relieved. Armed boats rowed guard around and through the fleet, following each other in the lapse of short spaces of time, during the night. In fact, every means were put in requisition to give the foe a warm and American reception, should he come up and attack them, and to thus defend and retain possession of our ships and property, as well as our persons, at every risk. Thus it was a complete state of war. In this condition were affairs situated, when the author's ship, the Tonquin, had received all her cargo on board, and was ready for sea. Two other American ships had also been ready for sea for some days previous, but their captains and supercargoes did not think it proper to risk 9* 102 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN sailing, under the belief that they would sure- ly be captured by commodore Pelew's squadron, and sent to Calcutta, agreeably to his reported threat; they therefore remained still at Wham- poa, in indecision. As soon as it was promulgated that the Ton- quin would immediately sail, and run the risk, all eyes, as it were, were directed to this ship. However, the author, while in the state of war, as related, had seen commodore Pelew, up at Canton, who was then informed by the presi- dent of the British East India Company's Council, that the author was the same person to whom the commodore's father, Lord Ex- mouth, had showed such friendly favour, some years previous at Falmouth, in England, when the now commodore was a middy on board his father's frigate. By this occurrence, he now recognised the author, and it brought fresh to his recollection his father's friendly notice, at that previous time, to him. The author was now advised of this, through his friend the president, who, with the most honourable feel- ings, was very anxious to have all these un- pleasant difficulties' removed and settled and harmony restored. The author was also most earnestly desirous to effect the same, and thereby to proceed on his passage for New- York. The United States' consul and the . TO THE CHINA SEA. 103 president, had already tried every expedient to obtain an amicable settlement of those war- like and disagreeable proceedings now on the carpet; but they had given up all present hopes of soon settling these most unpleasant difficul ties. In this discouraging and hopeless situa- tion, and thus perplexed and unpleasantly situated, the author at once determined to lay open his mind to the president, advise with him, and then depart with his ship down the river, and make the trial to put to sea for New- York. Accordingly, he waited on Mr. Roberts, the president, when an understanding and arrange- ment was concluded upon, which was :—That the author should sail with his ship down the river for sea, and should she be stopped and detained, by the men-of-war, at Ling-ting, (commodore Pelew being now at Canton city,) the author should then despatch a line to the president, stating the fact, when he would im- mediately, on receipt of it, wait on commodore Pelew, and try what could be done, as possibly it might open a friendly door to the amicable settlement of all difficulties, and re-establish peace and harmony. Matters being thus arranged, the author promptly repaired on board of his ship, where he made a confidential agreement with the 104 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN. Chinese pilot, to the following effect--the con- ditions of which were ;-that if the Tonquin should be stopped and detained, by the British squadron, at anchor below the Bocca, (mouth of the river,) at Lin-ting, he, the pilot, should then send his partner, or go himself, very chop-chop, (with great despatch,) in his pilot- boat back, up the river to Canton, with the author's chop, (letter,) to any gentleman, and which should be delivered as directed, truly, very chop-chop. For this and the boat's ser- vice, and prompt delivery of the chop, the gentleman who would receive it, or the author, would pay him well, as agreed ;-And if the chop did not cause his ship to be released, then the pilot should be immediately, on the return of his boat from the city to the ship, paid and dismissed. To these conditions the pilot readily as- sented, and agreed also to keep his boat, with his partner in her, constantly within con- venient signal distance of the Tonquin, during her passage down the river, until she should be past the British squadron, or taken and de- tained by them. Thus, every thing being set- tled and arranged, our ship was prepared and put in readiness for sea. TO THE CHINA SEA. ' 105 CH A P T E R III. Tonquin sails from Whampoa-British fleet-Ship taken by superior force-Despatch the pilot boat-Council signal displayed from the flag ship-Release of the Tonquin- Handsome and courteous conduct of the British lieute- · nant-Honourable and generous proceedings of Commo- dore Pelew, a son worthy of his noble sire, Lord Ex- mouth--War state ended in peace—ship departs from Grand Ladrone-Her arrival safe at New-York. November 18th, 1807.-All being now on board and ready, the Tonquin was forthwith unmoored and got under way, and proceeded down the river. When near the second bar we met and boarded the Ship Hope, Captain Reuben Brumley, belonging to the same own- ers, Messrs. E. & H. Fanning, and W. Coles, merchants in the city of New-York. The Hope was, from the Feejee Islands,* in the South Pacific, with a cargo of sandal wood, &c. The author paid a visit on board of her and after exchanging the news, friendly salutations, &c., with Captain B., bid them a good-bye, re- turning on board the Tonquin. At sun-setting, when within a mile of the Bocca, and fairly in • See Voyage of the Ship Hope. TO THE CHINA SEA. 107 Mackay and attended aft to the quarter deck, where the author was standing by the helms- man at the wheel. Mr. Mackay observed to him, “the Captain, sir.” The lieutenant then addressed the author in a commanding tone, Sir, you will direct your helmsman to star- board his helm, luff your ship around too and bring her at anchor under our commodore's stern." "Sir, I must decline your request, as I cannot consent to give any such order, as my ship is bound direct for New York."-"Then, şir, I shall take the liberty to do it for you, and calling to one of his seamen, “Bob, here, take the wheel.”. I then observed, “If you, sir, think proper so to do, it is at your peril, as I must then surrender the ship at your risk, from this time henceforth. As it would be perfect madness, and absurdity, for me now to make resistance, even in, and by the snap of a pistol, as you have to appearance landed upwards of two hundred armed men on my decks,--a little ship with twenty-four men in all, and only eight small carriage guns, it would be the height of folly to resist,--particularly when in addition the whole weight of metal of your squadron is now levelled against us. (At this time we were passing the flag ship within pis- tol shot distance, and all the vessels of the feet, with their tompions out kept slewing their 108 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN pieces, as we passed, and their battery pointed at us.) It certainly, therefore, would be mad- ness in me, sir, to make the least resistance, even to the flash of a pistol.” He took the irony of my remarks, and coloured, evidently much mortified at them. Altering his tone, he said, “Sir, I am sensible it is an unpleasant errand; but, I must do my duty.” He then or- dered my man to leave the wheel, and directed his Bob to take it, and luff the ship around un- der the stern of their commodore, where they brought her to an anchor, and furled her sails. The officers and men (except two officers and ten men, seamen and marines, as a possession guard,) were then ordered to repair to their boats, taking away likewise all our men with their luggage, and clothing, except myself, the first officer, steward, and an apprentice boy. The lieutenant's being the last boat, after giving the officer, that was left in charge, his orders, he stepped into it, having in her with him our second officer, and carpenter. I observed to him, that the Tonquin was now surrendered, and at his risk, taken by His Brittanic Majesty's force under, I presumed, his immediate com- mand, and now thereby lay at his risk. To this he only bowed assent; I had previously directed Mr. Mackay, that if the British squadron should take our ship, and any of our men out of her TO THE CHINA SEA. 109 immediately to haul down our American en- sign. This he effected as the commanding lieutenant stepped into his boat, whereupon he promptly inquired of our second officer, “What are your colours now hauled down for?” “I presume that the captain has directed it, as an evidence of the surrender of our ship to you, sir.” “I believe," replied the lieutenant, "your commander is a shrewd Yankee." "He is a good father to us,” remarked our carpenter, “and we think we have sufficient evidence, and feel confident that he understands his duty." “He is a very singular, fatherly captain, indeed, to be sure,” observed the lieutenant. The author now caused the signal to be made for the pilot's boat, to come alongside, and gave to him my letter, or chop as he would call it, to the president. At 8, A. M., he left the ship, saying by sunset he would deliver it as directed,--and truly the sequel will prove that he did, -for' at 11, A. M., on the next day Commodore Pelew's barge hove in sight, with her colours flying, coming at a rapid rate, un- der canvass and oars, from the city. Imme- diately after she got alongside the flag-ship, a signal was displayed from her main-mast, which the officer in charge of our ship, said was to call all the captains, or senior officers of the squadron to a council. This subse- 10 TO THE CHINA SEA. 111 with His Majesty's service.” All this was de- livered in the most pleasant, courteous, gentle- manly, and officer-like manner. In answer, the author remarked, that although he considered the act of detention of the Tonquin wrong, and injurious, he nevertheless was very thankful to Commodore Pelew, for his frank and prompt correction of the act, as well as for his kind assistance in the offer of replacing his ship in · the channel again, and farther for his very friendly expressions. Being so politely and with so much friendly feeling requested, I added: “You will, my dear sir, much oblige me in communicating to Commodore Pelew, that he would place me ever under the greatest obligations, by causing peace and harmony to be again restored and established between his and my countrymen. If he will please to have this effeeted, and let all the American ships pass unmolested out of the river on their pass- age home, it would confer on me a favour, that would be ever thankfully appreciated, grate- fully remembered and acknowledged.”. “I certainly will deliver to the commodore your request and desire, sir; and for myself I am free to remark that I sincerely hope our un- pleasant affair, in the detention of your ship, may eventually be the means of opening the door to the re-establishment of peace, and har, quently ascertained that the author's wish and 112 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN mony; the best of good, national feelings ought ever to exist, and be cherished by us." The Ton- quin's anchor was now promptly weighed, the ship bore off into the channel, and all sail was set to a light, but fair breeze. She was then luffed to, and the lieutenant with his two bro- ther officers, after a parting glass, to our re- spective countries, took their leave expressing the kindest friendly wishes, for our safe arrival to our country and friends. It was subse- hope for peace turned out in the affirmative, and proved true as was desired. A friendly understanding was very soon thereafter brought about; peace and harmony were re-established; and every American ship was permitted there- after to pass unmolested the squadron of men of war, when going in, or bound out on their passage home. Thus ended this war-like affair, by the concluding, generous and meritorious conduct of Commodore Pelew, a son every way worthy of perpetuating the honourable and creditable acts of his noble father, Lord Exmouth. We now proceeded down the bay, passed in sight of the city of Macoa, at which time when abreast of it, we discharged our Chinese pilot, paid, and well satisfied, who very much chin- chinned us on his departure. TO THE CHINA SEA. 113 At 6, P. M., we took our departure from the Grand Ladrone, and without any thing occur- ring during our passage, more than ordinary on similar passages, we arrived safely at New York. 10* P A R T I V. NARRATIVE SKETCH OF THE VOYAGE OF SHIP TONQUIN TO THE SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN, FEE- JEE ISLANDS, AND ON A NEW ROUTE TO CHINA, WHEREBY IMPORTANT DISCOVERIES WERE MADE, UNDER THE COMMAND OF THAT ABLE VOYAGER, CAPTAIN R. BRUMLEY, AND THE DIRECTIVE AGEN- CY OF THE AUTHOR, IN THE YEARS, 1808–1809. CH A P T E R I. The cause and object of the voyage-Embargo in the United States-President Madison-Permission to sail on, and perform the voyage-Honourable Albert Gallatin- Tonquin sails from New-York-Gough’s Island-- Coast of New Holland— Mount Gardner-Ship anchors in King George III. Sound— The sick with sea-scurvy landed - Natives of this part of New Holland-Departure from King George III. Sound-Remarks relative to the Sound, and anchorage — Arrival at Tongataboo—Van Diemen's Road-Barter-trade with the natives—Dangerous navi- gation of the Feejee Archipelago-Arrival at the Fee- jees-Ship visited by two young Princes--Fleet of war- canoes—Ship receives a welcome visit from King Tyna- hoa—The King's affectionate meeting with Mr. Brown, Ship arrives in Sandal Wood Road—Chiefs bring the cargo to the ship—Other vessels arrive, waiting removal of Taboo to trade-Tonquin has her cargo on board—Taboo raised-A truly affectionate parting with the King and young Princes. VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN. 115 CAPTAIN Brumley had, in his former voy- age, * contracted with the King of the Fee- jee Islands, for a cargo of sandal wood, to be brought from the mountains, cut into its pro- per length, the sap shaved off and piled on the small island at the harbour of Sandal Wood Bay, ready for a ship which would be sent out after it, within the course of eighteen moons, (months,) but the now prevailing embargo in the United States prevented any ship sailing for it, unless special permission, as was pro- vided for in the embargo law. by Congress, relative to certain cases, was granted by the President of the United States. Fearing that the wood, which is highly impregnated with essential oil, would lose all its virtue and value, by evaporation, and also that the time in the contract with the King would pass, and thereby release him from the contract, to our loss of the cargo, it was concluded to apply to President Madison, state our case plainly, and lay our contract, and our novel situation be- fore him. The case had this bearing, like- wise, that if a ship was not permitted to be sent out for the cargo of sandal wood, govern- ment would lose, as well as the citizens inte- rested, the amount of duties which would See Voyage of the Hope. 116 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN arise on the exchanged return-cargo of China goods. Accordingly the owners, Messrs. E. and H. Fanning and W. Coles, merchants in the city of New-York, applied to President Madison, for permission to send out a ship. Messrs. W. Coles and E. Fanning repaired to Washington city, laid the case before the Hon. Albert Gallatin, secre. tary of the treasury, who, after attentively hear- ing their explanations of its merits, &c., and their views of the proposed voyage, for which permission was requested, then gave his own views, and laid the same, with the application, before the President. His Excellency, after due consideration, granted permission for a ship to proceed to the Feejee Islands, take the cargo of wood to Canton, and then, after exchanging it there for China goods, to return with the same direct to New-York. Permission from government being now obtained, the superior, New-York built ship Tonquin, was taken up, well armed and amply fitted, in every respect, for the voyage. She was placed under the command of the well-informed and talented Captain Reuben Brumley. Wednesday, 15th of June, 1808.-The Ton- quin sailed from New York, and at 3, P. M. off Sandy Hook, Captain B., with all good feelings, parted with his friends, who had accompanied TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 117 him thus far to wish him a happy and pleasant voyage. At this time, also, he discharged the pilot. The gallant ship now filled away, under a cloud of canvass, with a fine breeze from the S. by W. At 4, P. M., they took their depart- ure from Sandy Hook light, it then bearing W. & S., 3 leagues distant. And, says the jour- nalist, except the surface of the ocean being deserted of its usual specks of white canvass, not any thing of note, (the passage being so similar to that of the Hope and others) occur- red until Monday, August 1st., when we fell in with the Brazil coast, in latitude 7° 39' south, and at our distance of six leagues from the land, the sea-water was much coloured. Great quantities of rock-weed was floating on its sur- face, and, at the same time, large shoals of whales were playing around us. August 25th. We had sight of Gough's Is- land, bearing S. by E., distant 10 leagues. This island may be seen in clear weather, I presume at least, at 20 leagues distance. At noon, it bore S.Ş.W., distant 15 leagues, and I make its latitude to be 40° 24' south, longi- tude, 10° 46' west, variation 16° 20' west. Friday, 7th of October, 1808.-—The coast of New Holland was in sight, bearing N.E. distant 8 leagues; at noon Cape Chatham bore N.EE. 118 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN distant 7 miles, and whales innumerable were playing around us in every direction. October 8th. --At 8, A. M., Mount Gardner bore N.E. 4 E. distant 5 leagues, Cape Bald Head, N.E. distant 2 leagues, and Eclipse Is- lands, W.N.W., one mile. At 10, A. M., we were in the entrance of King George III. Sound, when the easternmost land in sight bore E. by N. distant 9 leagues, and Mount Gardner now bore N.E. by E. & E. distant 34 leagues, and Bald Head W. by S. one mile. Seal Island, up the bay, soon came within our view, which is situated up towards and near to the head of the Sound. We now worked the ship up the Sound, with a moderate breeze ahead, and came to at anchor in eleven fathoms water, sandy bottom, abreast of the watering-place, which is at a fine sandy beach, extending al- most continuously from the chop of Bald Head up to the head of the Sound or Bay. After furling the sails and clearing up decks, we hoisted out our boats, and Messrs. Stanton Brown, the supercargo, and S. Coles, with myself, made use of one of them and landed on this beautiful beach, near to the rivulet of excellent fresh water. Here we selected a spot over a green lawn, for the erection of our tent for the accommodation of those sick with the scurvy, and then sent Mr. Brown, the first TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 119 officer, with the carpenter, his mates, and a gang, to erect the tent: As soon as this was effected we landed and placed our sick com- fortably in it, to feast on the scurvy-grass, &c. . They even, directly after the first day passed, showed convalescent symptoms. For a wild country, this is an excellent place for refreshments, and the natives appear very simple and harmless. It is convenient to good wood and watering, with an abundance of wild game, and a variety of excellent shell and scale fish. The various kinds are equal to any country: some of the rock-fish taken by us would weigh between twenty-five and thirty pounds; and those of the shell-fish, the oy sters, particularly, were of the most inviting quality. .: While here we had variable winds and weather, with showers of rain, at intervals, and also occasional calms. The natives visited us at the tent, on shore, in small parties, only from three to six at a time, freely bartering their uncouth stone hatchets and implements, &c., all except their arms, for knives, and trinkets, such as beads, bright metal buttons &c. On their visiting our officers and people at the tent, when they arrived within a few rods of the tent, they would stop and shout aloud, and as soon as 120 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN answered by our people, would then lay aside their arms, consisting of spears and war-clubs, and make signs for ours to put aside their arms, muskets, &c.;-this being done, they would freely come up and join our men, and promptly proceed without fear or hesitation, to trading Having completed our wood and water, and our sick on shore having recovered to a state of fair health again, we then, agreeably to instructions, buried a bottle, at a designated spot on Seal Island, and prepared our ship for sea. Friday, 21st of October, 1808.-We weighed our anchor and worked the ship out of the Sound, on our departure. At 4, P. M., Mount Gardner bore N.W. by W. and Bald Head Chop, or Cape, (all per compass,) W.N.W. distant 8 leagues, from which we took our de- parture. King George III. Sound is free and clear of danger, in ingress or egress, and Bald Head Cape is such a remarkable head-land that it cannot be mistaken by the mariner, aided by the mark of Mount Gardner. Wednesday, December 7th, 1808.-We came in sight of Eaoa, or Middleburgh Island, the cen- tre of which I place in latitude 21° 23' S. and longitude 175° 27' W. of London. On the next 122 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN after completing their errand, and receiving from me a suitable return present, they left us almost in ecstasy, to carry the good news, with all despatch, to His Majesty, saying, that the King would visit our ship in the morning. This assurance was confirmed by an carnest re- mark at the moment they departed in their large and highly ornamented canoe, for the shore. During the night a number of fires or lights were seen by us, from on board the ship, in different parts on the land, which we concluded were to give light to the natives in their work of gathering fruits, yams, &c., for a barter trade with us. This subsequently proved to be the fact, as very early in the morning the ship was surrounded by numerous canoes, large and small, which brought off to us an abundance of hogs, bread-fruit, yams, cocoa nuts, &c. The yams had the dirt fresh upon them, and corroborated the assertion of the na- tives, affording conclusive evidence, that they had been pulled during the night by the lights, as we had conjectured. When morning came, at 8, A. M., a fleet of war canoes in great state appeared in sight, steering for the ship. On inquiring of the natives, now trading with us, they informed us, that the fleet was coming with their King, TO THE PACIFÍC OCEAN. 123 Tynahoa, to pay a visit to the captain of our ship. His Majesty was soon within our view, seated on the platform or deck of the double, large, war canoe, under an awning, in great state, accompanied by the two young Princes, who had paid their respects to us last even- ing; and also surrounded by a few of his prin- cipal chiefs. On their coming alongside the ship, a scene was presented before our eyes, which, I believe, moved the feelings of every individual on board of her, as well as the chiefs in attendance on His Majesty. I met and re- ceived His Majesty with congratulations, on the forepart of my quarter deck, and, after the ne- cessary friendly salutations, I stepped aside, introducing his former adopted son, Mr. Brown, The King instantly encircled him in his arms, as if a child, when one minute passed, and another, and yet another–His Majesty seemingly too much absorbed by his feelings to be willing to slack up his embrace with the continued ex- pressions, “My son ! my son!” The large, pearly drops rolled down his cheeks, and he was, to all appearance, quite overjoyed, and af- fectionately unmanned in again meeting with his adopted son! This scene seemed, appa- rently, not only to petrify our officers and men, as they gazed on it, but also the natives, fixing them, like statues, on the deck. 124 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN The King spent an hour on board in making inquiries, &c., and informing me that he had kept and fulfilled our treaty faithfully thus far, and that the like full faith, on his part, should be continued to the end. This proved to be correct, as the sequel will show. Several English vessels, it seems, from Port Jackson, had been there after sandal wood, &c., and for trade during my absence, two of which were now lying at anchor in the har- bour, waiting for the Taboo (prohibition) to be raised; but not a tren had been disposed of; and farther, agreeably to the faith of said treaty, a full ship's cargo was now prepared and piled on the island, ready for me. This, the King said, should be brought by his chiefs alongside, and delivered, on board of my ship, as soon as I should desire, after our ship should be anchored in Sandal Wood Harbour, or Road. Then, after welcoming us over and over, and presenting me with a very large, fat hog, yams, cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruits, and receiving, in return, a suitable (so here consid- ered,) royal present from me, with that also brought for him by his adopted son, and ob- taining positive assurance from me, that his son, Mr. Brown, should be at liberty to repair on shore, at His Majesty's residence, immedi- ately after the ship was brought at anchor in TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 125 the harbour, His Majesty and court attendants departed for the shore. After sailing through the narrow passage of the main reef, and bringing our ship to anchor in the harbour of Sandal Wood Bay, Mr. Brown promptly, and agreeably to our under- standing, went on shore, to the King's resi- dence, and remained there the most of the time during our stay. As soon as His Majesty was informed that our ship was ready, his chiefs commenced bringing the wood from the island alongside ; but nevertheless, as they would, in spite of all our coaxing and persuasion, take it leisurely, in their own way and time, and as they had their wars and feasts to attend to, we were delayed until the month of March, before the cargo could be all shipped and on board. However, as some consolation for this delay, the King had complied bountifully, for we had to stow our launch in her chocks full, and also to take a quantity on deck, to receive all on board which he had provided. This being now accomplished; the Royal pro- hibition, or Taboo, by His Majesty's proclama- tion, through his chiefs, was raised, or taken off, to the great relief and gladness of those waiting in the other vessels, which had been so long here in tried patience, waiting to purchase. Trade 11* 126 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN with all comers was now again freely per mitted. Full supplies of fuel, water, with a plentiful sea stock of hogs, fowls, yams, bread-fruits, &c., being received on board, and after, as I believe, a truly friendly and affectionate part- ing with the King and his sons, the young Princes, who had got strongly attached to us, and a promise, (which no presents; or argu, mentative sayings, could put aside,) to return again in eighteen moons, if our owners should so decide and direct :-being now ready, we cleared up ship to sail and proceed to sea. CH A P T E R II. Ship departs from the Feejees-Remarks on the passage to sea-Ship takes a new route, for Clipa—Meets with much drift-wood, &c.—Discover the Tonquin Islands — Pass Dough's Group-Volcano Island Its columns of smuke-Discover the Group of Equator Isles--Signs of Inhabitants-Discover an extensive and important Group of Islands, to which they give the name of American Group-Dangerous situation of the ship-Arrival at Can- ton-Sail for New-York-Arrival., Thursday, 21st of March, 1809.-—We pro- ceeded with the ship through the pass in the 128 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN the look-out at the mast head, will plainly see them, when running down from Antua.' There is also, as will be seen, an extensive range of reefs, which put out from that island, quite down to Levo Callow. Be careful to give this reef, or range, a good berth, as there are strag- gling rocks, or small patches of reef out at some considerable distance from its main range. The Ship Hope ran over one of these patches, but, by good fortune, did not touch. In the Tonquin, by our sharp look-out, and close at- tention, we did but just escape running our ship on one of them. Continue your course west until Levo Cal- low bears north, which carries you clear of all the reefs and dangers; then steer north by west, or N. by W. & W., keeping Levo Cal- low on your starboard hand. You may pass within a mile of it, in a fine clear channel of five or six miles broad, leading to sea. After passing with the Tonquin through this chan- nel, at 6, P. M. we took our depature from Levo Callow, it bearing S.E. by E. distant three miles, and being situated in latitude 159 47 south, longitude, 175° 41'. east of London We now took and steered un a new and un- traversed route for China. Saturday, April 1st, 1809.-We passed a considerable quantity of drift-wood and Man- TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 129 grove nuts, our latitude being, at the time, 14° 15' south. Wednesday, 5th of April, 1809.—At 6, A. M. that ever-pleasing sound to the mariner and others, on long passages, and more especially to us, now far from home, was heard from the look-out aloft, of “Land, ho!” which proved to be an extensive island, or islands, and I re- gretted much that my instructions and time did not allow me to make an examination. Being a new discovery, I gave the name Tonquin Islands to the land, which, at noon, bore N.E. by E., distant 6 leagues. The centre of this Island or Islands, (as there is an opening which, at our distance, had the appearance of a ship water passage between the Islands, or lands, and a small spiral rocky Islet lay at a short distance to the northward of the north- ernmost land,) we place in latitude 11° 52' south, and longitude 169° 44' east of London; varia- tion 11° 20' east. : Thursday, 6th of April.---Ate, A. M., we had sight of another small Island, in latitude 11° 24' S., longitude 167° 06' 15" E. to which we gave the name of Palm Tree Island. Saturday, the 8th-We had a distant view of Dough's Group, or Swallow Islands, and passed them at the distance of 6 or 7 leagues- At meridian, saw Volcano Island, which I 130 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN place in latitude 10° 12' south, longitude 164 50' east, variation 9° 50' east, we observed columns of smoke continually issuing from its summit and ascending to a great elevation, by which and its height, this Island, or its situa- tion, by its volcanic smoke, can be seen in clear weather, at least sixty miles, by a man at the mast head of an ordinary sized merchant ship April 12th.—In latitude 7° 23' south, passed much drift wood, Mangrove nuts, &c., with patches of rock weed, as the ship sailed along on her course steering to the north-westward. April 25th.-- Just at the morning's broad day-light, we were treated again with the wel- come sound of “Land, ho!” from the mast- head, bearing N. E., distant 5 miles, which proved to be a number of small low islands, to appearance only eight or ten feet above the surface of the sea, but covered with tall cocoa- nut trees. They can be seen therefore in clear weather only, about as far as a grove of cocoa- nut trees could be seen on the surface of Nep- tune's element. Still, as we passed them, it was evident, that they were inhabited, as many smokes were made which ascended aloft, and continued rising as we passed the whole length, or range of the cluster. It was only about the extent of three miles, tending east and west. TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 131 Considering them to be a new discovery, we named them Equator Isles; they are situated, in latitude 00° 57' north, longitude 155, 19' east. Sunday, 30th April, 1809.-Not dreaming of being near to any coast, our surprise was very great, when the loud voice at the look-out at the top-mast head, at half-past 4, P. M., shout- ed, " Land, ho!” bearing right-a-head direct in our course, and off each bow. When the next half hour thereafter had passed, it was extensively seen bearing and extending from N.E. around by the north, and westward to the W.S.W. I now immediately caused the ship to be brought to the wind, with her head to the southward, which owing to a strong gale now blowing from the south-eastward and nearly direct on the land, with hard squalls, brought her instantly under-close-reefed top- sails. The land now appeared to consist of a number, or chain of islands, and the southern- most seen by us in the evening at dusk, was but a very short distance from the ship. After the night had closed upon us, making our view around very limited indeed, we could, notwith- standing, distinctly see the land between the heavy squalls, which with the tremendous sea rolling on, caused our very excellent ship, a truly first-rate seaboat, under her heavy press 132 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN of canvass, to labour hard, as she struggled with it, to keep off this strange shore; we were forced to keep on her this absolutely necessa- ry press of canvass to enable her to keep clear of this strange land, whose coast was now, so close a neighbour to us. In our dangerous si- tuation it could not possibly be dispensed with; to add to our very trying situation, and to save the masts from being torn from their steps overboard, we were obliged by 9, P. M., by the increased gale, and added violence of the squalls, in order to save our masts and spars, notwithstanding our increased danger, and the constant weight of the most painful anxiety on the mind, to furl our topsails, and to bring our well-behaved ship under her reefed courses, with the storm-staysails. At about 10, P. M., just as we had began to think ourselves clear of danger from the coast, and its shore,-on a sudden, between the squalls, the land appeared again bearing about west from us. Though at great risk of losing our masts and canvass I was brought under the severe trial, and abso- lute necessity of ordering the close-reefed top sails to be set again upon our now over-press- ed, and most superior behaved boat. As she plunged, and ploughed through the raging and foaming element, she trembled with her load of pressure like an aspen-leaf in the breeze; TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. - 133 but our really dangerous situation, the giant sea, the weather, and the violent gale were such, that there was no alternative, --it was life or death. It pleased, however, the Al- mighty, and blessed Saviour of man, to permit our ship to clear this newly-discovered promon- tory and coast, on which hung our destiny. As soon as this was effected, we relieved our well-behaved boat, by again furling the fore. and mizen topsails,--and were employed ma- nouvring our ship to traverse over as small a space of ground during the remainder of the night as possible. At half past 5, A. M., the land was again seen close under our lee; we immediately set again the close-reefed fore and mizen-topsails to endeavour to clear it, and as the day lighted up, more and extensive land came within our view, in its present appear- ance like a thick cluster of islands, tending about E. by N., and W. by S. After the sun was risen, upwards of twenty islands were counted within the range of our view from the mast-head, at the same time breakers were also seen between all the nearest ones, which were now distant about three miles from the ship. These are a dangerous and extensive group of low islands, chained in appearance together by coral reefs, and rocks above water. Their ex-' tent from east to west (as far as came within 12 134 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN our view) is about fifteen leagues. The south- sitle of the range, on which our ship was, in. form appeared somewhat like a crescent. Thus having passed through one of the most trying and anxious nights that can happen to a commander, or to man, we now bore up to the westward, and proceeded along and around the west-end of the westernmost island, as we judged it to be, for as we passed it there was no land to be seen in the western board from aloft. Concluding them a new discovery, we called them the American Group. Their cen- tre I judge to be, and place in latitude of 59 3 north, longitude 152° 25' east of London. The very unpleasant weather and want of time, did not give us an opportunity, to ex&: mine the islands of the American Group by a landing, which I much regretted, as I was very desirous of obtaining more particulars; but I did not feel that the loss of time to obtain them, by effecting a landing, would justify it with my duty. We saw no signs of these islands being inhabited. After this discovery nothing unusual occur- red to us during the remainder of this voy- age; and the author thinking that the daily sea account of remarks, would not be suffi- ciently amusing and entertaining to the reader, for insertion, omits it, and respectfully closes TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 135 the narrative, by merely stating, that after ar- riving at Canton, and exchanging their cargo for China goods, the Tonquin proceeded and arrived safe, all well, at the port of New York, with her full cargo of teas, and other China goods. From this cargo, an amount of some thousands of dollars for duties was paid into the national treasury. It is thus, by the constant, repeated, similar, and many voyages under the command, or di- rective agency of the author, that he has been the means; by those articles of trade so highly prized by the Chinese, and procured at lands, &c., in the South Seas, and Pacific oceans; of bringing large amounts into the national trea- sury, amounting in the aggregate to millions of dollars, as well as enriching his fellow-citi- zens, and adding much wealth to his country, since the year 1792. The date of his early move, was the first to discover and open the way to this valuable commercial trade to his enterprising countrymen. His voluntary, per- severing exertions, to obtain the authorization by congress of the present National American South Sea Exploring Expedition to endeavour to revive and advance this nearly obsolete, but valuable trade, &c., has been to him a sacrifice of above three thousand dollars, exclusive of time, in travel, and in personal attendance on 136 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN the several sessions of congress,—and as he has never yet received a dollar from govern- ment for services, or otherwise; he therefore hopes, when the author is no longer among the living, that a generous public will thereafter award to him, and his relatives, the credit of a worthy citizen, and real friend to mankind, his country's commerce, navigation, &c. If this laudable National South-Sea Exploring Expedition, now authorized, and fitting out, which the author has so arduously toiled for to be sent out by government, be not ably and successfully conducted, and carried through to a favourable, beneficial, and brillant résult, it will be no fault of his. Time alone can de- cide, while we hope for the best. TO THE NORTHWEST COAST. 137 CHAPTER III: 7 Narrative of the Massacre of the crew of the American ship Tonquin, under the command of Lieutenant 1. Thorn, U. S. Navy, by the sav- ages of the north-west coast of America, and the destruction of the ship. SECTION I. Tonquin anchors in Neweatee harbour-Visited by the na- tives--Brisk fur trade-Affront of an aged chief Save age threat of revenge-Trade interrupted-Natives quit the ship-Natives revisit the ship, in unusual numbers In- terpreter discovers the natives on deck to be secretly arm. ed-Their horrid war-yell— The attack and massacre Captain Thorn, the clerk, and four seamen regain the ship’s deck-Savages driven from the ship-Slaughter of the savages, and destruction of their canoes by the ship’s fire Four seamen quit the ship Vatives are induced to again visit the ship-Ship's decks crowded with numerous savo ages-Ship blown up by Captain Thorn-Terrible scene of destruction—The four seamen tuken by the savages and cruelly put to death. OTHER versions* of the very lamentable death of the gallant and brave Thorn, having appear- ed, the author of these voyages deems it but justice due to the honour and credit of the gal- lant officers of our navy, that they, as well as the relatives and friends of the brave Thorn, • See Irving's Asturia, vol. I. page 116. 12* 138 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN should have every report how, and in what manner, this determined and noble spirited offi- cer of the United States navy perished, with the mysterious destruction of his ship As an introduction, the author would, with all respect, remark, That after the return of the Tonquin from her late voyage to the Feejees, and Can- ton, (see the preceding pages) slie was sold to John Jacob Astor, Esq., a highly respected and wealthy merchant of the city of New York, for an enterprising voyage to the north-west coast of America. The following narrative will show the fatal end of this beautiful and very valua- ble ship Captain James P. Sheffield, in the Brig Her- silia, of Stonington,* being on a trading voyage and cruise in 1823 and 24, on the coast of Ca- lifornia, informed the author, that he employed on board his vessel an Indian fellow, by the name of Lamayzie, who told Captain Sheffield, that he was interpreter and pilot of the Ship Tonquin, Captain J. Thorn, when the horrid massacre of her crew took place, and the ship was blown up. • This, the second Hersilia belonging to the South-Sea Company, was built by the order of their agent, the author, to replace the one that was captured by Beneviades, and wrecked at Arauco, on coast of Chili.--See page of this volume. TO THE NORTHWEST COAST. 141 lot' related to him what had occurred, and in what fury the old chief had left the ship, desir- ing him to use his endeavour to persuade the captain to get the ship immediately under way, and leave the harbour, as he was sure, know- ing the Indian disposition and feelings, that this aged chief would not peaceably put up with such an affront. - The supercargo 'on learning this, went im- mediately to the captain, who was yet quickly pacing the deck back and forth, and used his best endeavours, by earnest entreaty and ad- vice, to persuade him to leave this anchorage, but all in vain, the captain ridiculed his advice, and said, he would pacify the savage, and his tribe with the battery on his deck. The re- mainder of the day passed away without any movement on the part of the natives, and at the usual hour in the evening, the captain and su- percargo retired to their berths, leaving the mates' to attend to and regulate the watch for the night, as had been previously and usually arranged, At the dawn of day on the next morning, a small canoe with two natives and a squaw came cautiously alongside the ship. : Being friendly received by the officer of the deck- watch, in the command of the deck, they again soon returned to the shore, when a large canoe, 142 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN' with a young chief, a son of their head-chief, with about twenty natives, bringing with them a good lot of sea-otter skins, came alongside, to trade, all, to outward appearance, unarmed, and with many friendly signs, indicative of a desire for a brisk trade. Other canoes soon followed off to the ship, and as no orders to the contrary had been before given out, the officer in the command of the deck permitted the sav- ages to come freely on board, until such an increased number had got on the decks, and around the ship, that he became alarmed, and directed the captain and supercargo to be call- ed up. When they came on deck, the captain declined to order the ship's decks to be cleared of the natives, but directed the brisk, and as he no doubt thought innocent and advantage- ous trade to be continued, when, in a short time, he himself became uneasy by the nume- rous additional canoes and natives continually coming off from the shore to the ship At this time, the interpreter, having discovered that the savages came on board armed, with their short war-clubs, and Indian daggers, secreted under their mantles, or short skin cloaks, he imme- diately but cautiously informed the captain of it; who, without first clearing the ship's decks of the natives, gave orders to get the ship un- der way, sending some seamen to the windlass TO THE NORTHWEST COAST. 143 to heave up the anchor, and some aloft to loose the sails. The seamen had but just got at work at their stations (the trade at the same time going on in hurry and bustle) when the savages gave the war-whoop, flourished their war-clubs and daggers, and the murderous at- tack then commenced. The first victim, the Indian said he saw struck, was the clerk, a young man, by name Lewis, with a stroke by a dagger, in the back part of the neck, when he fell against the side of the companion-way, down on the gangway steps. On soon coming to himself, he closed and bolted the companion way doors, and retreated to the cabin. The skylight of the quarter-deck had been previous- ly taken off and removed to pass up goods and articles for trade, At this moment the captain, badly daggered and mortally wounded, fell down through it into the cabin. The captain, who was a brave and determined man, of su perior strength, at the time of the first war- whoop, was standing on the quarter-deck, just forward of the mizen-mast. Observing a pow. erful chief coming upon him, with drawn dag- ger, he drew his large dirk that he had of late kept constantly at his waist, and with one plunge thrust it into the breast of the savage, and laid him dead at his feet; but being now set upon by numbers, he received several 144 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN wounds from their daggers, and was forced back against the steering wheel-frame, when a savage behind him gave him a blow on the back of the head and neck, with a war-club, which knocked him over, and, as before men- tioned, down through the skylight opening into the cabin for dead, as then supposed, aside of Mr. Lewis. At the time of the first savage- yell, Mr. Mackay, the supercargo, was on the ship’s tafferel, and immediately sprung forward to assist the captain, when he was knocked down by a blow of the war-club given by an herculean savage, and immediately pierced with many daggers, and thrown overboard, where the remnant of his life was soon de- stroyed by the squaws in their canoes. The pilot, at this time, moved himself out over the tafferel on one of the boat's stern-davids, where he remained until he saw, as he then thought, all the officers, and men massacred, except those aloft, and the savages in complete pos- session of the decks, when he lowered himself down by the boat's tackle into a canoe, where he soon heard the report of pistols, which, he subsequently learned, were fired by the clerk from out of the cabin skylight, under the coun- sel of the captain, at those savages on the quar , ter-deck. This soon cleared this deck of them, when the clerk called to the seamen aloft; 1 TO TBE NORTHWEST COAST. 145 (the main-hatches as well as cover to the sky. light, having been previously taken off, to pass up goods for trade,) to lower themselves down by a rope, from the main-stay into the hatch- way, and then come aft to the cabin, on which they took the studding-sail halyards from the maintop and making the bight fast to the main stay, dropped the two ends into the main hatch- way, when they slid one at a time down by the end-parts into the hatch-way, and between decks, and aft into the cabin. The first three, to the surprise of the natives on the main-deck, got safely down and into the cabin; but the savages having now awaked from their amaze ment, attacked and massacred the last three, when they descended. The one in the mizen- top having made fast a line to the gaft over the skylight, and the savages having been already driven from the quarter-deck by the fire of Mr. Lewis, the clerk, under direction of the captain, who was yet unable to stand on his feet, the seaman then slid down by his line into the ca- bin, without danger or hurt; and he, being the first one aloft which thus acted, gave encou- ragement to his shipmates in the main and foretops to promptly follow his example, and proceed as related. There being now four seamen unhurt in the cabin with the mortally wounded captain and 13 146 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN clerk to direct and assist them, and plenty of loaded muskets and pistols at hand, they mount ed on the table, under the skylight which brought their heads and shoulders, just above the deck, and commenced a brisk fire of mus- ketry at the savages on the maindeck. This soon cleared it of those bloody murderers, when Mr. Lewis and the four seamen repaired to their battery, and let off the loaded cannon upou them and their canoes, which caused ter- rible slaughter, destroying many of their canoes and thus affording to those remaining alive on board, peaceable possession of their ship again. In the general battle the officers and men had fought with a determined courage, but were overpowered by crowded numbers. Lamayzie, the pilot, on withdrawing by sliding down the tackle in his retreat into their canoe, and hav- ing given no assistance in the fight, was consi- dered by the natives as a neutral, and by them treated as such. After all that remained alive of these wild murderers, had got again on shore, out of reach and fear of the deck-guns, not an individual of them left it again during the remainder of the day, and the night passed When morning came, the ship was seen still at anchor with her sails loose, when the interpreter was desired to go off to her with some natives in a large canoe, to in peace. TO THE NORTHWEST COAST. 147 which, suiting his mind, he readily consented. They paddled off cautiously around the ship, when Mr. Lewis appearing on deck, called to them to come on board, making at the same time friendly signs, that they had nothing to fear, and on proceeding alongside and meeting with no opposition, they very readily sprang on deck, which was yet covered with heaps of goods, articles of trade exposed the previous day. Mr. Lewis directed the interpreter to say to the natives, that they might take and divide all the goods on deck among themselves, only now be at peace and friendly. This being made known, numbers of canoes came off, bringing the natives and squaws, in unusual numbers, and thus crowding the ship's decks, and also hanging on her sides around her. The clerk now invited the interpreter into the cabin, where he saw Captain Thorn sitting on the after locker, with a lighted match in his hand. He looked very pale, and was near the magazine scuttle, by which on the cabin deck, was a large heap of gun-powder, and two oak- um ropes covered with the same, leading from the heap into the magazine. Mr. Lewis gave an explanation relative to what had passed on the day before and during the night, and then said to him, “You see the captain can't live long, and is going to blow up the ship with all 148 VOYAGE OF THE TONQUIN these barbarian murderers about her, and as I myself cannot long survive, I am going with him.” He then told him if he wished to live, not to speak a single word, but to take a roll of cloth, and bunch of beads, and immediately to lower himself out at the cabin window, and repair to some canoe and promptly move off, and not to speak until he was in it, for if he did, that instant he spoke, the ship would be blown up. He acted accordingly, and swam to a canoe having in it two squaws. Showing them the beads, they very readily received him into their canoe, quickly paddling her safe out from among the fleet, to keep the prize, which he had brought. On looking back to the ship, he saw Mr. Lewis looking out of the cabin window after him; and, on his drawing him- self in and disappearing, immediately the ship blew up with a terrible explosion, destroying a great number of savages and herself disap- pearing. He saw nothing more after this of Captain Thorn, nor Mr. Lewis, but thought it best and most judicious to keep to hinself the. secret given to him while in the cabin. The squaws in the canoe which had received him, proved to be the wives of a chief of some in- fluence, who had had the good fortune to have come out of this bloody slaughtering affair un- scathed, and with whom the beads and roil of 1 TO THE NORTHWEST COAST. 149 blue cloth paved the way, and obtained a peaceable home for him at their residence in the village. The bay now showed on its sur- face a horrid sight, strewed over with yelling, wounded savages, floating parts of the blown up ship, with shattered portions of wrecked ca- noes. To these were added the mourning, sav- age, wailing howls of the escaped natives and women of the village. The four unhurt seamen had embarked in the ship's small boat, in the night, with the hope of getting back in her to the settlement the ship had previously made at the mouth of Columbia River, but were forced on shore by the strong wind and current, and the next day were discovered and taken prisoners by the na- tives, and immediately brought to the village, where the interpreter spoke with them, and learned their views and intentions, on quitting the ship. To this step they said, they were mainly induced by the fear and expectation, that they in the ship would be attacked during the night, and overpowered by hosts of the sa- vages, and also massacred; but, alas! poor fellows, they were now in a much worse and more dreadful situation. They were all put to death by cruel, lingering torture, in the usual horrid manner of savages. : Thus, it seems, by placing too much confi- 13* 150 NEW DISCOVERIES. dence in these wild savages, awfully perished the brave and daring Thorn, and the whole of the twenty-two persons under his charge. Thus also ended the career of this fine ship, the Ton- quin, and with her all the promising prospects of the voyage were destroyed, -deplorably showing of how little real service is ability and talent, even of no ordinary kind, unless combined with that wisdom which dwells with prudence. SECTION II. A List of newly discovered Lands in the South Seas and Pacific, with their situations. Farnham's Island, discovered by Bolivar, Liberator, in 1833. Latitude 14° 46' north, longitude 169° 18'east. Six miles long, tending W.N.W. and E.SE Ladd's Island, discovered by Missionary Packet, in 1834. Latitude 17° 26' north, longitude 133' 15' west. Michell Island, discovered by the Mary Michell, in 1834. Latitude 11° 30' south, longitude 165° 35' west. A low island, about two miles long, and full of wood. Barstow Island, discovered by the Gideon Barstow, in 1834. Latitude 23° 12' south, longitude 137° 21' west. Leavitt's Island, discovered by the Peruvian, April 13th, 1835 Latitude 10° 4' south, longitude 152° 23' west. This Island has a white sandy beach, and is covered with trees. New-Port Island, discovered by ship Audley Clark, Captain Paddock, on December 28th, 1836. Thickly wooded, but NEW DISCOVERIES. 151 66 66 no appearance of its being inhabited. Latitude 11° 37' south, longitude 162° 25' west. Acteon's Islands, discovered (Lat. 21° 29' S. lon. 136° 27' W. January, 1831. Three Is 21° 23'S. 136° 32' W. lands compose the group. 21° 19'S. “ 136° 38'W. Raraka Island, 11 leagues in extent. Latitude 15° 52' south, longitude 114° 47' west. Single Island, very low above the surface of the sea. Lati- tude 16° 5' south, longitude 130° 41' west. Michell's Group, their presumed centre, in latitude 31° 27' 8. Supposed longitude of their eastern extreme, 130° 41' W. PART V. EXTRACTS FROM THE MEMORIALS TO CONGRESS, PRAYING THAT A NATIONAL DISCOVERY AND EXPLORING EXPEDITION BE AUTHORIZED, AND SENT OUT TO THE SOUTH SEAS, PACIFIC OCEAN, &c., WITH A STATEMENT OF THE PROBABLE NA. TIONAL BENEFITS IN VIEW, &c., &c., THAT MAY BE OBTAINED, BY PERFORMING SUCH AN EXPE. DITION, WITH NOTES, EXPLANATORY OF THE SUBJECT. The following extracts are from memorials by the author, which were presented at the Session of Congress, in 1831, and also at subsequent dates, and were continued with urgent zeal, and supported by memorials from numerous highly respectable citizens of New York, Philadelphia, &c., &c., up to the time said National Exploring Expe- dition was by Congress authorized :-- EXTRACT FROM THE MEMORIAL OF EDMUND FANNING, Presented to Congress, praying that a National Discovery and Exploring Expedition be sent out to the South Seas, fc., December, 1831. Referred to the Committee on Naval Affairs, and ordered to be printed. EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 153 To the Honourable the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States, in Con- gress assembled : Your petitioner, Edmund Fanning, hav- ing obtained satisfactory evidence, by the trial and result, that any private exploring expedi- tion cannot ever produce, or obtain, the de- sired and wished-for national benefit to navi- gation, commercial trade, the whale and seal fishery, science, &c.; therefore, under a full acquired belief of its national importance, im- pressed as your memorialist is, by personal experience, in the necessity of a governmental exploring expedition to those parts of our globe, doth, in his national feeling and zeal, and in all humble deference, most respectfully recommend and pray, that Congress, in its wisdom, will be pleased to grant an appropria- tion, with power for a competent National Ex- ploring and Discovery Expedition to the South Seas, Pacific, &c. In aid and support of which recommendation, your memorialist has here- tofore made sundry discoveries in those seas, and had long and much experience relating to the subject. And your memorialist, as in duty bound, will ever pray. EDMUND FANNING. New-York, Nov. 7th, 1831. 154 THE AMERICAN 23d CONGRESS.) (1st SESSION. MEMORIAL OF EDMUND FANNING, To illustrate the views in a petition presented to Congress, praying that a National Discovery and Exploring Expedition be sent out to the South Seas, fc. December 18th, 1833. Referred to the committee on naval affairs, and ordered to be printed. To the Honourable the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States, in Con- gress assembled :- EXTRACTS FROM THIS CONTINUED MEMORIAL, &c. Your petitioner, Edmund Fanning, respect- fully asketh leave to submit the following ex- planations, reasons, &c., to illustrate his views of the national advantages and benefits prayed for, in his petition before Congress, and on file with your honourable committee, that a nation- EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 155 al discovery and exploring expedition be sent out to the South Seas, &c., &c.; and does also farther respectfully request, that the said ex- planations, remarks, &c., with his former peti- tion, and papers attached thereto, on file with your honourable naval committee, may be again printed. Your petitioner, in all deference, re- quests leave to observe, that, at the early date of 1792, he entered and engaged on those South Sea voyages, with a view to obtain information on the seal fishery, commercial trade, pecuniary profit, &c., that which at this time was thought might be obtained from those foreign ports und unexplored regions. In 1797, your memorialist sailed on his voy- age, in the capacity of commander, supercargo, and director, to prosecute this commercial trade and seal fishery, to the South Seas, Pacific Ocean, China, and around the world. This new and enterprising voyage opened the gate to his fellow-citizens to this South Pa- cific and China commercial trade ; by which, and thereafter, under his command or agency, were taken from these regions to China, on American account, the first cargoes of sandal wood, seals, fur, beach-la-mer, bird's nest, mother of pearl, pearls, sharks' fins, turtle shell, &c., being the productions of the lands, seas, in those South Sea and Pacific regions; which, 156 THE AMERICAN on being exchanged in Canton, for China goods, and those brought home into our ports of the United States, not only enriched his brother citizens, the adventurers, but poured streams, by duties on the same, of hundreds of thousands, ay, millions of dollars, into the public treasury, thus enriching our country in the aggregate; and which, in the course of some few years, therefore, caused this com- mercial traffic and fishery to increase to up- wards of twenty sail per annum, out of the ports of the United States, and which has now got dwindled down to a very limited number: In your petitioner's next voyage to the South Seas, the Pacific, China, and around the world, he was honoured in the command of a superb new corvette ship, of 22 guns, commissioned by the President of the United States, with a complement of five lieutenants, a master, a surgeon, eight midshipmen, with a competent number of petty officers and men, which voy- age was also safely performed around the world, without any unpleasant occurrence or difficulty, but in good discipline, harmony, &c. And having, during his voyages in the com- mand and directing agency, had the fortune to discover the group of Fanning's Islands, Pal- myrie Island, Washington Island, (so named on its discovery by the subscriber, a beautiful EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 157 green island that stands recorded on the charts in use, by this name of the father of our coun- try) Border's Island, as also, the continent of Palmer's Land, and rediscovered the group of Crozett's Islands, the South-Antipode's Island, were the first Americans at the Feejee Islands, and to the new. South-Shetland Islands : from all of which there has been produced much wealth to our beloved country, as well as to its national treasury ;--- were the first from among our enterprising fellow-citizens, that took from those regions and seas, on Ame- rican account to China, those products of san- dal wood, &c., &c., which then, as before- mentioned, being exchanged in Canton for silks, nankins, teas, &c., &c., (China gaods) not only produced large profits to the adven- turers, but also enriched the national treasury. And in the utmost respect the subscriber here- unto would remark : Do not these discovo eries and their effects, with the millions of wealth which this trade and fishery have here, tofore brought into our country, by its en- terprizing citizens, and also to its national treasury, have a parental claim on government for'a competent exploring and discovery expe- dition, to endeavour now to revive it again? And to revive this commercial trade, fishery, &c., as well as to obtain other important national 14 158 THE AMERICAN benefits, I do now most respectfully and earnest- ly petition and pray Congress, for this discovery and exploring expedition to be sent out, to ex- plore and search out new resources, or places, to obtain those products, articles, &c., which places, it is confidently conceived and believed, are yet numerous to be found, and thereby the said products will be again obtained in plenty, when those contemplated new places of resort, &c., are discovered and marked down on the chart, by this exploring, with proper vessels, on such national service. Presuming your petitioner's information, by such lengthy experience, to be equal to that of any other, and that your petitioner has had the fortune to do as much, if not more, than any other citizen, in searching out and bringing for- ward those national advantages and benefits touching on the before-mentioned business of commercial trade, &c., : to the South Seas, Pacific, and China, as well as by first opening the gate-way to the prosecuting this valuable fishery and commercial trade, which has so enriched the national treasury, and brought such wealth to his fellow-citizens, which your petitioner conceives, in all due deference, en- titles him to, and gives to him the firm ground of confidence, and of claim to respectfully ask, by his said petition, of our nation's Congress, EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 159 the granting it, by the authorizing the prosecu tion of this national project. But laying aside, for a moment, this Pacific and China commercial trade, your memorialist would observe, adverting to the subject, that the whale and seal fishery to the South Seas, of late years, has increased in the number of vessels beyond that of any former time, from out of the ports of the United States, and are still on the increase :-therefore the more urgency there is now of this national explora- tion, in the immediate need to its support: Also in further illustration, as touching on the seal and whale fisheries, history gives to us the fact, that the British Greenland Whale and Seal Fishery at their old fishing grounds, had got reduced in their fleet engaged in this business, by the scarcity of the whales and seals, from upwards of eighty sail, down to a very limited number;-when the exploring and discovery voyages sent out by their government, under captains Ross and Parry, having discovered 'new fishing grounds, never before having been disturbed, up Davis' Straits, Baffin's Bay, &c., where the whales and seals were plenty, or numerous, revived again this fishery to such a degree, that they now have, annually, a fleet of between ninety and a hundred sail employed again in it, (which revival would undoubtedly 160 THE AMERICAN have been lost to that nation, had not those exploring and discovery voyages been per- formed,) with renewed advantages, not only in bringing wealth to the nation, but in also estab- lishing an additional nursery for seamen, which, it is well known, is the main spring of a navy. And your memorialist is now in possession of the fact, that losing voyages by our Ameri- can vessels have already, and lately, been made, owing to the scarcity of fishes and ani- mals at their old grounds, or places of resort, for their requisite, natural, and annual wants of feed, propagation, &c.; particularly the lat- ter, the seals; which ill success and hard for- tune will still prevail, and in an increased measure, if not to a total abandonment in a few years, if this national exploring and re- search are not soon entered upon and effected, by discovering, marking down, and promul- gating new resorts, grounds, and places, where those amphibious animals and fishes are to be again found in plenty, as they are still met with, numerous, on their travels, in those seas. The vessels now employed in this whaling and sealing business to the South Seas, Pa- cific Ocean, &c., on taking their departure from our ports, proceed direct for the old grounds and places of resort of those fishes and EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 161 animals where they are now found and met with, so scattering and wild as to protract their voyages, often to such a length as to frequent- ly exhaust their provisions, which were laid in for the voyage; and, of course, oblige them to recruit in a foreign port, or force them to re- turn home with a losing voyage, and which, it is confidently believed, such an exploration would prevent, and cause a more sure, prompt, and successful voyage and return, by its dis- covery and marking down of new grounds and places of their resorts :--which expedition would also make more sure and safe the life of the mariner, by placing in their true situa- tions the many dangers, &c., and thereby aiding and benefiting navigation as well as science, &c. Further, your petitioner and his associates, in their arduous enterprises and persevering endeavours for many years past, to the general national good, and to promote this fishery, and commercial trade, and in discoveries, have had the fortune to discover a new continent, or ex- tensive lands, in the southern hemisphere: which, by the generous act, as due to American enterprise, of a talented circumnavigator,* be- longing to a powerful and magnanimous * The commander of the Russian Discovery Ships. 14* EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 163 again procured in abundance, viz. of sandal wood, bird's nest, beach-la-mer, pearls, turtle shell, &c., which would much revive again this commercial trade to China, &c. Furthermore, your petitioner feels confident that this expedition would discover, and do an act of great humanity in their routes, by falling in with and returning again to their homes, some of those now missing ships' crews of Ameri- can citizens thus long absent from their coun- try, families, friends, and civil society, and which, perhaps, are now dragging out a lone- some and suffering life, after being cast away upon some uninhabited island, or in slavery to some cannibal chief on an inhabited one; which pains the heart in deep distress of feeling in the suffering thought of those most unfortunate missing fellow-citizens and voyagers :-And, to relieve even a single ship's crew of them by such an expedition, what a parental act of government this! And yet further, your peti- tioner feels sure that they would greatly benefit and improve navigation by exploration and survey, and in correcting the situations, and placing them true on the charts, to be in use, of many islands and dangers, and thereby make the now dangerous hazard much less to the mariner, in our whale, seal, and trading ships 164 THE AMERICAN and vessels, when traversing those oceans and seas, Finally, all will admit that such an expedi- tion would add much to history, science, &c., and your memorialist is sincere in the belief, that, if land is not discovered in the way, they may reach a very high south latitude, if not in the vicinity of the south pole. The noted voy- ager, Captain Weddell, who obtained to the S. latitude of 74° 15' states, in this latitude the sea was then free of ice, and that he had fine mild weather. And should the American ex- pedition discover land in their way on proceed- ing south on its examination, who knows but what it may afford or produce invaluable and rich furs, oils, &c., in addition to a new discovery? And your petitioner would here respectfully remark, with a view to show the weight and length of time his mind has been engaged in- tent on this exploring subject, and requests, in all deference, permission to state in illustration, that, while engaged in the command and agen- cy in prosecuting those South Sea, 'Pacific, and China voyages, he has for upwards of thirty years past, had before his mind's eye the evi- dences of the advantages and benefits of such an exploring expedition to his nation, with the constant increasing surmises and evidences coming up before him in observation, touching EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 165 and relating to the most proper kind of vessels, with their fitments, &c., to enable and give the most sanguine promise to such an expedition, to obtain the greatest favourable and brilliant result; which, if this petition be granted, he is freely willing to communicate for the national benefit. Also, personal experience has taught the subscriber that situations will occur on such voyages of exploration, both in high and low latitudes, which would be fatal to the large and heavy ship, when the small and lighter vessel would escape. The writer of this has wintered in his ship in a high latitude, in the icy region towards the south pole, and personally observed the forma- tion, and make, and movements of the ice islands, bergs, &c., on the break up of the winter, and of its frozen massy barriers, caus- ing a terrific, thundering roar, like that of ten thousand cannon, seemingly making terra-firma tremble to its foundations; and been with his ship in very trying and painful situations, in the mountainous swell of rolling billows or tur- gid seas, in calms and currents, in the equato- rial latitudes among the coral reefs, when at the same time beset and surrounded by the sava ages, which would have been fatal, beyond the possibility of human means, to extricate 166 THE AMERICAN i her, if a heavy ship, but having a lighter ves- sel, he escaped from this awaiting dreadful fate; but which happened to be the lot of our first ship, and all on board of her which was sent to the Feejee Islands after sandal wood, &c. :-she being a full built, heavy vessel, was wrecked by drifting, and being hove by the billowed sea, in a calm and current on the coral reef, and every soul on board of her, save the Tonga native pilot, perished, or were mas- sacred by the savages, as each individual ob- tained, through the breakers and surf, a foot- hold on the rocks. A similar situation and case was no doubt the fate and destruction of the much-lamented and unfortunate La Perouse, his frigates and their crews, which, with more proper and light- er vessels, would perhaps have been avoided. Also, as an additional evidence of weight of advantage such an exploring has been to his mind, he would respectfully mention a fact, viz.: That an expedition of two ships was pre- pared, and nearly ready for sea in their depar- ture on this service, in the spring of 1812, un- der his command, and a commission was grant- ed by the President of the United States, to your petitioner, in the command of the same, when the sudden declaration of war by Con- EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 167 gress put a stop to its sailing, and finally caus- ed it to be abandoned.; : Your petitioner also respectfully begs, it will be here noted, that since that date the addi: tional weighty call, or necessity, that such a national expedition should be sent out, is, that the important discovery of the continent of Palmer's Land has been made by Americans; which will also show in evidence, that in our South Sea mariners' and voyagers' minds, at least, this exploring project petitioned for is not á visionary idea, but for real and important na- tional benefits that are much needed. All which is most respectfully submitted. EDMUND FANNING. December 7th, 1833. Notes explanatory of the subject of the Na- tional Exploring Expedition, or,-- A plain tale of facts, fc. Thus is recorded the official memorial of evidence of the acts, and doings of a citizen, whom the Almighty, in his goodness, has been pleased to bless with a long life of three score and ten; nearly fifty years of which hav- ing been spent in the enterprise of voyaging in 168 THE AMERICAN ' research and discovery tending greatly to the benefit of his country and its citizens, as well as the pecuniary benefits, he trusts, that a just and liberal public will not suffer now to be taken from him in the hoar age of life, the small award due to any merit he may be de- serving of,--while he, in the best of feelings, does not wish and is not desirous of taking from any fellow-being the least feather's weight of the credit due to them, in recording those historical facts which he conceives in justice belong to himself and those of name dear to him. Sundry prints have, with many flattering puffs, given the whole credit and merit as pro- jector and procurer of the authorization by Congress of the American South Sea Explor- ing Expedition, to another citizen, who truly and richly is entitled and deserving of a large share of merit in this national measure. But the author of this work would respectfully ask to here note the following explanations corro- borated by facts, vouchers, &c., in addition to a reference to those extracts of memorials, in vindication of just credit to his doings, and acts relative to, or touching on the measure of send- ing out this laudable national enterprise, viz. This citizen, to whom those prints give all credit, sailed in 1829, from the United States; as one of the scientific corps in the American Exploring Brigs, Seraph and Annawan, sent EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 169 out under the directive agency of the author of this volume; and he did not return to the United States until the Frigate Potomac, Com- modore Downes, in May, 1834. This being the fact, and referring to the foregoing extracts of memorials, how can his friends, those edi- tors, claim for him the merit of being the first projector of this expedition, and moreover of procuring its authorization by Congress, when the measure had, at his return, been thus al- ready urged by the author of this work with unwearied zeal, before that honourable body for three sessions, and the honourable sena- tors, and members, it is presumed, had now become familiar with the project, as also to have an earnest patriotic interest in the fair promise of the honour and benefit such an enterprise would be to the nation. The ex- tracts of the memorials and proceedings can be corroborated by a reference to the records of Congress, as also by hundreds of most respectable citizens (solicited by him) who sup- ported the author's petition to Congress by their memorials. Farther, as the earliest in bringing this ex- ploring subject before government, see Fan- ning's Voyages, page 492, where it will appear in evidence, that the author had the honour to bring this subject before govern- 15 170 THE AMERICAN ment, in 1810 and 12, during Mr. Madison's presidency. The author, therefore, freely leaves it with his fellow-citizens, and the re- spective readers, to decide to whom belongs the merit of projector, &c., if there be any beyond that to which every patriotic citizen may be entitled. He will only in all due deference add, that at the time of the arrival of the Potomae, it was well known that the project was advano- ing in Congress, in a sure prospect of its au- thorization; and any citizen being single, with- out a family to support, could as well board him- self in Washington City, as at any other place, during the sessions, -and could put in a petition to Congress, for any project he pleased, even if the same had already been petitioned for; and at same time, by thus forming a numerous ac- quaintance, and more especially when possess- ing shining elemental advantages of education, embellished by address, he could, by the aid of high literary acquirements, orations, &c., cause an impression on the public mind and press to go forth, that he was the sole projec- tor, &c., of such a measure. To correct which in this case, the author conceived it due in jus- tice, disclaiming all intentional censure or disre- spect, to here respectfully note these explana- tions, &c., without the most remote desire, or EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 171 intention to hurt the feelings, or to take from any active, and patriotic citizen, one iota of his claim of merit. But only to explain and lay the case fairly and plainly before the public, that the real Simon Pure may have his just proportion of the award, if there be any other than ordinary. At the time of the authoriza- tion of this expedition by Congress, its fair bill was before the House of Representatives, and when, in its turn, it should have been taken up, would undoubtedly then have passed, and it is believed by a greater majority, and in a better conciliating satisfaction, than on the course it went through, in the general appro- priation bill. However, the honourable Senas tor, S. L. Southard, thought proper, with what view he best knows, to move in the honourable United States' Senate, the authorization for this measure of a sloop of war, etc., in the general naval appropriation bill-whereupon it passed. Now, if the honourable senator made this move with the view to secure the president's sanction, it was perfectly needless--as might have been known by one word with the vene- rable president on the subject; as the author was present at Washington, at the time urging forward the project, and from his oral commu- nication with the Executive, to his certain knowledge, he is decidedly in the belief, that EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 173 vourable impression absolutely required to be removed, and a contra-favourable impression made and established, before any hope could be had of a bill being passed by Congress and ratified by the President, authorizing such a South Sea discovery and exploring expedition. This the author zealously undertook, and the following vouchers and evidences will, with the sequel, show how well and happily he suc- ceeded. On repairing to Washington, at the com- mencement of the session of Congress, in 1831, with the petition to present to Congress for such a national measure, he was accompa- nied by two able and well-informed citizens, to aid in his explanations and to remove the diffi- culty, and bring about, if possible, a favourable opinion and result, as well as to raise up a determination in the government to carry the enterprise into effect. The following proceedings took place, as related in the letter of the author, (herewith,) to President Van Buren. From the files of a mass of voluminous cor- respondence by the author, had during his persevering, industrious aid, to effect this South Sea exploring expedition, the following letters, extracts, &c., are bereby submitted, as evi- 15* 174 THE AMERICAN dence of his acts and doings in favour and support of this laudable national project. On the close of General Jackson's presi- dency, and soon after President Van Buren's administration had commenced, doubts were mentioned as to this expedition ever being sent out. Therefore, to aid in its sure sailing, the author addressed a letter of explanation, &c., to the Executive on the subject, of which the following is an extract. New-York, June 12th, 1837. To His Excellency Martin Van Buren, Presi- dent of the United States, Washington City. I respectfully request to place before the President, the following further information, &c., viz:- Before presenting the petition to Congress on this subject of a National South Sea Ex- ploring expedition, early in December, 1831, I, with an experienced commander in explora- tions in the southern hemisphere,* and also a Captain "Benjamin Pendleton, senior in the command, and John Frampton Watson, Esq., M.D, Professor, and of the scientific corps of the American Exploring Expedition EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 175 scientific citizen of first qualification, who had also voyaged to that part of our globe, waited on President Jackson, explained our views of its merits, and the honour, benefits, &c., which would likely result to the nation by a govern- ment discovery and exploring expedition to the South Seas, &c., -The President listened at- tentively, in much interest ;-and in conclusion observed, he saw its merits, and the benefits that might be obtained to our commerce, the fisheries, navigation, &c., &c.,-said we could present the petition, and if Congress would au- thorize the project, it should now have his ready and earnest support, desiring me, on taking leave, to give my views, &c., on the sub- ject to the secretary of the navy. Accordingly we the next morning waited on, at his depart- ment, the Honourable Secretary Woodbury, submitted to him our views, &c., (that able and highly worthy officer, Commodore Rogers, being present,) when Mr.Woodbury requested, firstly,—the perusal of our petition to Con- gress, then, in his usual patriotism, observed, like the President, if Congress should au- thorize the measure, it should receive his ready support. of brigs Seraph and Annawan, which had been sent out to those seas, patronized by the executive government of the United States. 176 THE AMERICAN This gave encouragement to present the pe- tition, as also my attendance, session after session, zealously urging forward the project, up to its authorization. Having the honor to be With high regard, The President's obdt. servt. EDMUND FANNING. Copy of a letter from the Honourable Secre- tary of the navy, to the author. Navy Department, December 7, 1832. Sir -Your letter of the 5th instant (on the exploring expedition) has been received. I will be very happy to carry into execution any directions Congress may be pleased to give, on the interesting subject of your letter. I am respectfully, sir, your ob’d't servant, LEVI WOODBURY. Captain EDMUND FANNING, New-York. Extracts from the letters to the author from the honourable G. C. Verplanck, of the House of Representatives; and the honourable Senator Robbins, of the United States' Senate; and from the honourable secretary of the navy, of EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 177 date, Navy Department, 15th June 1836, will show in evidence, the opinion of the government relative to the part, and interest in aid the author had taken and performed to the autho- rization, &c., of this National South Sea Dis- covery and Exploring Expedition project, with likewise that of his ability relative to the im- portant command of it. Washington, February 9, 1831. Dear Sir,—Your communications on the sub- ject of the National Discovery Expedition have been duly received. The expedition of dis- covery cannot but prove a valuable addition to geographical and commercial knowledge, to which I shall be happy to contribute any aid or advice in my power, I am, with respect, your ob'd't servant, G. C. VERPLANK. Captain E. FANNING, New-York. Washington City, February 13, 1833. Dear Sir,-I have received your letter of the 11th inst. I view the project (of a National South Sea Exploring Expedition) suggested, 178 THE AMERICAN as you do, as one of great national import- ance. With great respect, your ob'd't servant, ASHER ROBBINS. Captain EDMUND FANNING, New-York. Navy Department, 15th June 1836. If Congress had authorized such Exploring Expedition to be conducted by citizens and not by officers of the navy, your claim to command the expedition would be a strong one-but Congress have made it an affair of the navy, and I find you renounce all desire to sail in the expedition, as you believe the officers of the navy equal in all respects to the task. Your zeal in procuring a law for an ex- plorer's expedition is well known. I am, with great respect, your ob'd't servant, M. DICKERSON. Captain E. FANNING, New-York. And as further evidence that the author con- tinued to the latest to contribute his humble aid to the expedition, he would here respectfully remark, that, having received assurance from the honourable secretary of the navy, that any EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 179 suggestions relative to the choice of route to be taken by the expedition, after sailing from the port of the United States, would be very accep- table, whereby the author promptly tendered the following herein after mentioned four pages of suggestions, &c., which were forwarded by mail, enclosed in his letter, as per copy here- with. (COPY) New-York, September 6th, 1837. Dear Sir,--Agreeable to your favour of the 29th ult., I have the honour herewith to for- ward the enclosed views on route, &c. With great respect, your ob’d’t servant. E. FANNING. To the Hon. MAHLON DickeRSON, Secretary U. States' Navy, Washington City. Note.—The enclosed paper in this letter to the honourable secretary of the navy, contained four pages closely written of the author's extensive views, suggestions, &c., relative to the most promising route for the expedition to take on its departing from our port, and on navigating in the South Seas, &c. Likewise informing of the most convenient harbours, and places of rendezvous, &c. &c. The following is a copy of the letter from the 180 THE AMERICAN honourable secretary of the navy, acknowledg- ing the receipt of the same. (COPY.) Navy Department, September 8th, 1837. Sir, I have received your letter of the 6th inst., with your suggestions as to the route for the S. S. Exploring Expedition,-for which I thank you. They shall receive a respectful consideration. I am with great respect, your ob’d't servant, M. DICKERSON. Captain EDMUND FANNING. Copy of a letter from Commodore Chaun- cey, to the Honourable Noyes Barber, member of the United States' Congress. Navy Commissioners' Office, February 22d, 1834. Dear Sir, I have the pleasure to receive your favour of the 19th inst., enclosing a com- munication from E. Fanning, Esq., upon the subject of an Exploring Expedition to the South Seas, etc. I have known Captain Fan- ning since I was a boy, and believe him to be as pure and disinterested a patriot as any in EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 181 our country, and I am persuaded that he has no interested* motive in recommending to Con- gress the adoption of some measure to explore the southern 'oceans. I'am, dear sir, very truly yours, J. CHAUNCEY.'! Hon. Noyes BARBER, M. C. House of Representatives, Was iington City. If the general reader please, it may be noticed that the dates to the small number of vouchers here inserted, are sufficient to show the chain of constant attention of the author to the subject of this Exploring Expedition, from the Session of Congress in 1831, the time of the presentation of his petition, up to and after its authorization by Congress, and to the time of its near sailing, by his offers of aid to its routes. Nevertheless, having reason to con ceive, now the expedition is authorized, and fearing that the author's name should be omit- ted, with his small proportion of merit, (by, active movements with the purest desire to serve his country,) in the volume of the voyage, * A report had, at this time, got circulated, that the author was exerting himself to obtain the authorization of this expe= dition, with a view to self employ. 16 182 THE AMERICAN at the return of this National South Sea Expe- dition, he has deemed it but justice, to here re- spectfully insert these explanations and vouch- ers.* After so many years of voluntary, but zealous struggling, together with much pecu- niary sacrifice, and time spent in attendance on Congress, travelling, etc., by the author; he feels reluctant, now that the object is obtained, and the expedition duly authorized, to be thus put aside into oblivion, like a worn out cipher ; and therefore feels that a generous public will excuse and indulge him in thus placing the sub- * See Army and Navy Chronicle for December 1st, 1836, where the Honourable Secretary of the Navy, in his letter of date, Navy Department, September 12th, 1836, to Captain Jones, the senior officer in command of this expedition, has this paragraph : "The person with whom you intimate I have correspond. ed, I presume, is Captain Edmund Panning, of New-York. "Captain Fanning long since planned a South Sea Ex: ploring Expedition, and has been urging it upon Congress ever since the administration of Mr Madison. So far as there is a merit in suggesting and urging this measure, it is due to Capiain Fanning. He is intimately acquainted with many regions which it is intended to explore ; and it is very desirable to have the benefit of his knowledge and experience, both in fitting out and conducting the expedition: “I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant, " M. DICKERSON." • Captain THOMAS AP. C. JONES, U.S. Navy." EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 183 ject in its true light before them. With all due respect, he thinks that the handsome invita tion* (declined) given to him by the honourable secretary of the U. S. Navy, to go out in the expedition, will put at rest any thought of his ever having acted (as has been remarked) with a view to self-interest, of future employment and emolument, but solely for the good of his country, and the inhabitants on other parts of the face of our globe. This is the real state of the case. The author would here with respectful de ference, remark, that the vessels that now com pose the Exploring Expedition, (except the frigate and her store-ship,t) are not such as would by him have been preferred or selected. * His reason for declining will satisfactorily appear in the publication of the author's life and correspondence, viz.-his being so far advanced in the time of life given to the age of man. The author would much prefer a properly constructed single ship to even these two, for this special service, to act as the Flag ship. I During the year 1811, that able and talented shipwright, Henry Eckford, built for the author two ships of about 330 tons each, on the most approved model, as was supposed, for this special service of discovery and exploring vessels. On trial these proved to be first rate buoyant sea boats, and very swift sailing, and alert working vessels. On finishing them, this very ingenious builder plainly showed, that by a different plan in the construction from the usual mode;-of 184 THE AMERICAN They will undoubtledly answer the purpose to a certain degree, but, those far better adapted might have been procured, which would have insured a promise of the utmost degree of com- fort, safety, and despatch. Having had ves- mechanical improvement in their support and security, by clamp framed decks, and chain braced frames, (which system of plan, on explanation, is not only convincingly more efficient, and far superior, but would readily appear as simple, when explained, as was that of the greatest discoverer Columbus, in making the egg stand on its end,) in the like models as were the above two vessels; that there could be procured for this exploring service, two of similar model and construc- tion, which would be far superior in performance, comfort, and safety in heavy weather, or among dangers by ice &c., as also for swift sailing, and alert working, it is believed, to what has ever yet been produced by any nation. The long experience the author has had in navigating in every clime, was, by this evidence confirmable in his mind as most supe- rior, and would no doubt be decidedly and highly approved of by the first judges as preferable; as surely giving to their commanders the means and aid of doing and performing far beyond, and in much greater safety and despatch, than what as yet ever has been done or performed by man, these are the kind of vessels which the author was so very anxious his country should have the advantage of for ex- plorers in this first American National Exploring Expedition, in the room of those heavily, clumsily built, old fashioned brigs and schooners, now attached for this part of the service, Further, with two such exploring vessels, on the Eckſord plan, the expedition would have been, Fulton-like, new, and truly American, Such as EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 185 sels built for this service in the earliest of all adventures on the briny ocean, or icy seas, by one of the first shipwrights that ever took draft or model in hand, (the lamented Eckford,) and being only zealously anxious that this first American national trial, should have in its ser- vice the best adapted vessels which would give the fairest promise to excel; and because the author's practical experience could not admit that the Pioneer, Consort, and Pilot, * were the best adapted vessels for this service that could be procured, it has been ungenerously reported, that he was opposed to the expedition - Op- posed to it, indeed !--when our globe re- volves to the west, and not to the east, then, and not till then, will this be the fact. How illiberally unjust! And after the author's long untiring task of zealous attention, and urging to obtain the authorization and fit out of this first national Exploring Expedition; he cannot but respectfully remark, that it has not, even now, such an important and magnificent na- * This vessel, it is already said, has been condemned, as unfit for the service she was built for, and put at rest to re- main in port as a receiving ship. This being the fact, can there be a stronger evidence of the want of deficiency of ex- perienced information and knowledge in the preparations, construction of the proper vessels, &c., in the fit out of this expedition ? 16* 186 THE AMERICAN tional enterprise been managed and prepared, as the author's experience would have coun- selled ; and yet, its expenditure has been alto- gether unprecedented. His tendered know- ledge, and long experience, when communi- cated, have been mainly put aside and unlistened to, in its fit out.' It is presumed, however, that its able commander will hereafter have the gal- lant generosity to explain why this has so been; at least, it is thought judicious to thus leave this circumstance, until the result of the expedition is known. Nevertheless, as the real facts are, as herein penned, and so plainly related, and substantially supported, relative to his acts, and doings, in the aid to its authorization, may it not be respectfully asked, is not every citizen in the expedition, from its talented com- mander, down to the smallest boy, under, at least, some small obligation to the author, for their desired station in the voyage ? But time will show, whether the gallant officer appointed to this very honourable, brilliant, and import- ant command, of one of the noblest, and high- est stations to commendable ambitious pride, will cause justice to be given on the volume of the records of the voyage to an unaspiring citizen, (the author,) or leave it, as a vacant spot, or tarnished mark, on the bright and shining escutcheon of this laudable national EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 187 enterprise. He has only to add, (if it ever sails,) that whatever the event, or result of the expedition may be, it now has the most ardent wish of the author, that it will be brilliantly fortunate, and terminate in additional fresh honour, glory, and benefit to the American name, nation, and navy; as also to those pa- triotic adventurers who sail in it. Finally, with the utmost respect be it said, it is as sure, as that the sun shines at noon, in a clear day, that this American National South Sea Exploring Expedition, would not, now, (in October 1837,) have been authorized, had not the author of this work been in being, and a citizen of these United States,* this is the absolute fact, whatever its result may turn out to be. Therefore, for future proof, this passage is here recorded; because, not any other citizen, it is presumed, could have hoped to, or so suc- cessfully and happily have explained away the * And yet, with all deference, the plan and proceedings of its fit out, are so wide from the author's views, that with such exploring vessels as the provided brigs and schooners are, it brings fears, that, after all, it may result in no great benefit, &c., to the nation, if it do not prove in the end, better if it never had been authorized. This would be truly discour- aging to American patriotic enterprise, - which may the Giver of all good prevent. However, what is herein related will be an historical record of its rise and progress—let its result be what it may. 188 3 THE AMERICAN wrong or unfavourable impression, on the mind of the President, to such a national project; and made it appear thus greatly to the honour and benefit of the nation, except he had had the like personal experience as the author, who also had the fortune to hold, and was favoured in weight of argument, by that of the honour of holding a commission (which was submitted) in the command of a similar Discovery and Exploring Expedition, granted to the author by President Madison, a former Executive of the United States, highly eminent in the rank of wisdom as a statesman. For what avail would it have been, even for Congress to have passed a bill authorizing it, if the unfavourable im- pression had not been first. removed, as the President, it is well known, possessed the power of veto. In order to show the public, and general read- er, that there has been no holding back of aid, or neglect on the part of the author, in ever promptly giving his assistance to this national enterprise ; he would state, in farther illustra- tion and explanation, that previous to any ap- pointment whatever being made to this Ameri, can National South Sea Exploring Expedition, the author tendered his services in aid of su- perintending the preparations, construction of the proper vessels, &c., in its out fit; this was EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 189 done by a letter to his Excellency the Presi- dent of the United States, forwarded under cover to a patriotic and prominent Hon. Mem- ber of Congress, who was well acquainted with the author's long and arduous perseverance in the obtaining its authorization, with the request that he would have the kindness to pass it in person into the hand of the President. The author, in due time, received a line from this gentleman, (the honourable Richard M. John- son,) stating that he had handed the letter of tender to the President, who received it, in thankful kindness, and said it should receive a respectful consideration. Soon after, the author received a letter from the honourable Secretary of the United States' Navy, remark- ing that the author's letter to the President, tendering his services in aid of the fit out of the Exploring Expedition, had been referred to his department, and when the time arrived for taking up, and acting on the subject, it should, have the most respectful consideration,* Here * The decline, or objection to the aid of the author, who possessed much experience relating to the subject of the pre- paration, construction of the proper vessels, &c., for the expedition, could not have rested with His Excellency, the President, or Hon. Secretary of the Navy. For the reasons of this opinion, see the extract of letter, from Army and Navy Chronicle for December 1st, 1836. Page 128. 190 THE AMERICAN the author's tender of assistance has rested, and since remained in silence; but why it has thus, silently remained, and why his long per- sonal practice, experience, and information on the subject, has been put aside, he has not the means of explaining. Subsequently an ex- tensive correspondence with the honourable Secretary of the Navy, has taken place on the project, concerning information, &c., which in- formation, the author, notwithstanding, has been ever ready to contribute, but which, in the main, has had very little' useful effect. For what reason it has so been, the author is left in the dark A list of the vessels, officers, and scientific corps, which compose the American National South Sea Exploring Expedition. The fol- lowing being a correct list, as reported, at this date, of the United States' South Sea Explor- ing Expedition, November 20, 1837.* Since the date of this list, by the tenor of a letter, the author has subsequently received on the subject, from the Hon. Secretary of the Navy, it appears, that alterations of stations and officers, may yet take place before the expedi- tion sails. 192 THE AMERICAN Gunner, A. A. Peterson. Carpenter, W. S. Laighton. Sail Maker, S. V. Hawkins. Purser's Clerk, J. S. Barnard. New Brig, Pioneer. Lieutenant Commandant, William D. Newman. Lieutenant, Samuel P. Lee. Acting Master, M. G. L. Clairbone. Passed Midshipmen, E. T. Shubrick, William Postell, and R.J. P. Sandford. Boatswain, George Wilmouth. Carpenter, Amos Chicks. Gunner, Oliver Nelson. Purser's Clerk, W. M. Clerk. Behu0 New Brig, Consort, Lieutenant Commandant, James Glyna. Passed Midshipman, George M. Totten. Acting Master, B. M. Dove. 2,113 Assistant Surgeon, C. Gullion. Boatswain, H, Welton. Gunner, J. D. Anderson. Carpenter, John Fry. Sail Maker, J. Joines. Purser's Clerk, R. H. Griffin. New Schooner, Pilot. Lieutenant Commandant, Mannings, Commander. * This reported condemned, as inadequate for this service, and left at Baltimore as a receiving vesselt † The author would not be understood by any thing said in this volume, as casting any reflections, or making any personal complaint 194 THE AMERICAN, ETC. NOTE.–From the Annual Report of the Honourable Mahlon Dickerson, Secretary of the United States' Navy, to His Excellency the President of the United States, of date, Navy Department, 2d of December, 1837, wherein he thus remarks: That the Board of Commissioners (consisting of those very able and talented officers, Commodores Chauncey, Morris, Warrington, Patterson, and Wadsworth, who had been ordered on a survey of examination of the exploring vessels,) state, that had they “ been called upon before any preparations had been made, to state the number and charac- ter of the vessels, which, in their opinion, would be best cal- culated to secure the attainment of these proposed objects, they certainly would not have recommended those which have been prepared," viz. the Pioneer, Consort, and Pilot. PART VI. A DESCRIPTION OF THE NEW SOUTH SHETLAND ISLES, BY JAMES EIGHTS, ESQ., M.D., NATURALIST IN THE SCIENTIFIC CORPS IN THE AMERICAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION, OF BRIGS SERAPH AND ANNAWAN UNDER THE COMMAND OF CAPTAIN B. PENDLETON, AND N. B. PALMER, SENT OUT TO THE SOUTH SEAS UNDER THE DIRECTIVE AGENCY OF THE AUTHOR OF THIS WORK, AND THE PATRONAGE OF GOVERN. MENT IN THE YEARS 1829 and 1830. Location of the Islands Snowy elevation Straits and bays-Beautiful clearness of the atmosphere Icebergs Penguin assemblages--Antarctic sky-Brilliant hue and reflections - Whale skeletons Geological features Craggy eminences-Singular ebb and flow of the tide Current along the coast–The strata and minerals- Volcanoes—Animals—Mermaid-Sea skunks—Birden King penguins and its eggs-Rookery penguins --Exist- ence of a southern continent-Palmer's Land. THE new South Shetland Isles are situated between 61° and 63° south latitude, and 54º and 63° west longitude. They are formed by an extensive cluster of rocks rising abruptly from the ocean, to a considerable height above its surface. Their true elevation carnot be easily 196 THE EXPLORERS' VISIT determined, in consequence of the heavy masses of snow which lie over them, conceal- ing them almost entirely from the sight. Some of them, however, rear their glistening sum- mits, to an altitude of about three thousand feet, and when the heavens are free from clouds, imprint a sharp and well defined out- line upon the intense blueness of the sky. They are divided every where by straits, and indented by deep bays, or coves: many of which afford to vessels a comfortable shelter from the rude gales to which these high latitudes are so subject. When the winds hạve ceased to blow, and the ocean is at rest, nothing can ex- ceed the beautiful clearness of the atmosphere in these elevated regions. The numerous fur- rows and ravines which every where impress the snowy acclivity of the hills, are distinctly visible for fifty or sixty miles ; and the various sea-fowl, resting upon the slight eminences, and brought in strong relief against the sky, oft- times deceive the experienced eye of the mariner, by having their puny dimensions mag- nified in size to those of human form. The ocean in the vicinity, so far as the eye has vision, is here and there studded with ice- bergs, varying in magnitude from a few feet to more than a mile in extent, and not unfre- quently rising two hundred feet in the air, pre- TO THE SOUTH SHETLAND ISLES. 199 where meets the eye, are the staves that mark its dimensions ; no sound for years disturb the silence of the scene, save the wild screech of the sea-birds as they wing their way in search of their accustomed food—the incessant chat- tering of the congregated penguins—the rude blasts, tearing among the icy hills—the sullen roar of the waves, tumbling and dashing along the shores, or the heavy explosions of the large masses of snow falling into the waves beneath, to form the vast icebergs which every where drift through the southern ocean. The shores of these islands are generally formed by the perpendicular cliffs of ice, frequently reaching for many miles, and rising from ten feet to se- veral hundred in height. In many places at their base, the continued action of the water has worn out deep caves with broadly arched roofs, under which the ocean rolls its waves with a subterranean sound that strikes most singularly on the ear, and when sufficiently undermined, extensive portions crack off with an astounding report, creating a tremendous surge in the sea below, which, as it rolls over its surface, sweeps every thing before it, from the smallest animal that feeds upon its bottom, to those of the greatest bulk. Entire skeletons of the whale, fifty or sixty feet in length, are not unfrequently found in 200 THE EXPLORERS' VISIT elevated situations along the shores, many feet above high water line, and I know of no other cause capable of producing this effect. Whales are very common in this vicinity, and in calm weather great numbers of them may be seen breaking the surface of the ocean in the many intervals which occur between the numerous icebergs, sometimes sending forth volumes of spray, at others elevating their huge flukes in the air to descend head first, as it were, to fathom the ocean's depth. When they perish, either from accident or some natural cause, their carcasses, in drifting towards the shore, are overtaken by the billows and thrown thus far upon land. Here they are left by the retiring wave, and in a few hours their bones become perfectly denuded by the numberless sea-birds that feed upon the flesh. The geological features that these islands present in these high favoured situations, where the continuous power of the winds has swept bare the rocks, correspond in a great measure with their desolate and dreary aspect. They are composed principally of vertical columns of basalt, resting upon the strata of argillace- ous conglomerate ; the pillars are united in de- tached groups, having at their bases sloping banks constructed of materials which are con- stantly accumulating by fragments from above. TO THE SOUTH SHETLAND ISLES. 201 These groups rise abruptly from the irregularly elevated plains, over whose surface they are scattered here and there, presenting an appear- ance to the eye not unlike some old castle crumbling into ruin, and when situated upon the sand stone promontories that occasionally jut out into the sea, they tower aloft in solitary grandeur over its foaming waves; sometimes they may be seen piercing the superincumbent snow, powerfully contrasting their deep murky hues with its spotless purity. Ponds of fresh water are now and then found on the plains, but they do not owe their origin to springs, being formed by the melting of the snow. The rocky shores of these islands are form- ed by bold craggy eminences standing out into the sea at different distances from each other, from whose bases dangerous reefs not unfre- quently lie out for several miles in extent, ren- dering it necessary for navigators to keep a cautious watch, after making any part of this coast; the intervals between these crags are composed of narrow strips of plain, constructed of coarsely angulated fragments of every va- riety of size, which at some previous period have fallen from the surrounding hills. They slope gradually down to the water, terminating in a fine sandy beach. A few rounded pieces of granite are occasionally to be seen lying 202 THE EXPLORERS' VISIT about, brought unquestionably by the icebergs from their parent hills on some more southern land, as we saw no rocks of this nature, in situ, on these islands. In one instance, I obtained a boulder nearly a foot in diameter from one of these floating hills of ice. The action of the waves has produced little or no effect upon the basalt along the coast, as its angles retain all the acuteness of a recent fracture, but when the conglomerate predominates, the mass is ge- nerally rounded. The ocean about these shores is generally of great depth; the materials which constitute its bottom are finely comminuted particles, having their origin from the decompo- sition of the neighbouring rocks. Our stay at these islands, occupied a period of four weeks, during which time we observed but one ebb and flow of the tide in twenty four hours. I know not if this be universal, but have been informed by mariners familiar in these seas, that they have generally found it so; if it should prove to be the case, it is a very singular phenomenon. Not a day occurred that snow did not fall or ice make on our decks, and during the time we spent between the latitudes of 60° and 700 south, and 54º and 101° west longitude, which was more than two months, we found the cur- rent setting with considerable velocity from the south-west to the north-east. The prevailing TO THE SOUTH SHETLAND ISLES. 203 winds were also westerly, most commonly from the south-west and north-west. The colour of the basalt is generally of a greenish black. The prisms are from four to nine sided; most commonly, however, of but six, and from three to four feet in diameter; their greatest length, in an upright position above the subjacent conglomerate, is about eighty feet. Their external surfaces are closely applied to each other, though but slightly united, conse- quently they are continually falling out by the expansive power of the congealing water among its fissures. When they are exposed to the influence of the atmosphere, for any length of time, they are, for a small depth, of a rusty brown colour, owing, no doubt, to the iron which they contain becoming partially oxydized: sometimes they are covered by a thin coat of quartz and chalcedony. Clusters of these columns are occasionally seen reposing on their sides, in such a manner as to exhibit the surfaces of the urbases dis- tinctly, which is rough and vesicular. When this is the case they are generally bent, form- ing quite an arch with the horizon. When they approach the conglomerate for ten or twelve feet, they lose their columnar structure and assume the appearance of a dark-coloured, flintyslate, breaking readily into irregular 204 THE EXPLORERS' VISIT rhombic fragments: this fine variety, in de- scending, gradually changes to a greenish colour, and a much coarser structure, until it passes into a most perfect amygdaloid, the cavities being chiefly filled with quartz, ame- thyst, and chalcedony. Sometimes an inter- val of about forty or fifty feet occurs between the columns, which space is occupied by the amorphous variety, elevated to some consider- able height against them; their edges, in this case, are not at all changed by the contact. The basalt is very tough and hard; the effect produced upon it by the action of the file is very slight'; the steel elicits no sparks; the fragments are angular, with an imperfect conchoidal fracture ; its structure is coarsely granular and uneven, and is composed, essen- tially, of hornblende, felspar, and a greenish substance in grains, much resembling epidote. Crystals of leucite, of a yellow and reddish tinge, are disseminated throughout the mass, whose fractured surfaces strongly reflect the rays of light to the eye; in some places it sensibly affects the needle, owing to its iron. Veins of quartz frequently traverse the fine variety,--some of them containing beautiful amethysts. The basis rock of these islands, as far as I could discover, is the conglomerate, which TO THE SOUTH SHETLAND ISLES. 205 underlies the basalt. It is composed, most generally, of two or three layers, about five feet in thickness each, resting one on the other, and dipping to the south-east at an angle of from twelve to twenty degrees. These layers are divided by regular fissures into large rhombic tables, many of which ap- pear to have recently fallen out, and now lie scattered all over the sloping sides of the hills, so that the strata, when seen cropping out from beneath the basalt, presents a slightly arched row of angular projections of some considerable magnitude and extent These strata are chiefly composed of irregu- lar and angular fragments of a rock, whose principal ingredient appears to be green earth, arranged with both a granular and slatey struc- ture, united by argillaceous cement; the whole mass, when moistened by the breath, giving out a strong odour of that earth. The upper portion of this conglomerate, for a few feet, is of a dirty green colour, and ap- pears to be constructed by the passage of the amygdaloid in this rock, the greenish frag- ments predominating; and they are united to each other principally by zeolite, of a beautiful light red or orange colour, together with some quartz and chalcedony; a few crystals of lime cause it to effervesce slightly in some places. 18 TO THE SOUTH SHETLAND ISLES. 207 bonized wood, imbedded in this conglomerate. It was in a vertical position, about two and a half feet in length. and four inches in diameter; its colour is black, exhibiting a fine ligneous structure; the concentric circles are distinctly visible on its superior end; it occasionally gives sparks with steel, and effervesces slightly in nitric acid. There are a number of active volcanoes in the vicinity of these islands, indications of which are daily seen in the pieces of pumice found strewed along the beach. Captain Wed- del saw smoke issuing from the fissures of Bridgeman's Island, a few leagues to the N.E. of Palmer's Land, situated one degree south :- what little is known of it, which is only a small portion of its northern shore, contains several. Deception Island also, one of this group, has boiling springs, and a whitish substance like melted felspar, exudes from some of its fis- sures. The rocky fragments on these islands are generally very hard, and little liable to the disa integrating influence of the atmosphere, and rarely, indeed, are they subject to a power ca- pable of agitating them sufficiently to remove even the acuteness of their angles, conse- quently but a small quantity of soil can any where be found, and when discovered, being 208 THE EXPLORERS' VISIT destitute of the necessary ingredients that give fatness to the earth elsewhere, it affords but a few scattered patches of vegetation, which ap- pear to struggle hard for the small portion of vitality they enjoy. The Usnea fasciata, (Torry,) is most common. A species of poly- trichum, resembling the alpinum of Linnæus, one or two lichens, and a fucus found in the sea, along the shores—when you add to these an occasional plant of a small species of avena, you complete the botanical catalogue of the is- lands. The only vertebral animals ever observed on these islands are very few in number, and confined to the amphibia carnivora, of Cuvier; all being embraced in the genus Phoca. The P. leonina, Lin., (sea elephant,) is the largest of the species, sometimes attaining the length of twenty-five feet, and is regularly propor- tioned. These animals are remarkable for the powerful strength of their jaws. When at- tacked and wounded in such a manner as to be unable to reach the sea, in the struggle, either through agony or rage, they not unfrequently take up considerable sized stones with their mouth, and break them into a number of frag- ments between their teeth; and sometimes they seize upon the lance, breaking it instanta- neously, or else bending it in such a manner TO THE SOUTH SHETLAND ISLES. 209 as to render it perfectly useless. The sea, leopard is not so large, but is a far more beau- tiful animal. P. vitulina, Lin. (fur seal.) This beautiful little animal was once most numerous here, but was almost exterminated by the sealers, at the time these islands were first dis- covered. There is also a fourth species, which I have no recollection of ever seeing the slightest notice of. It is probably not com- mon, as I saw but one; it was standing on the extremities of its fore-feet, (flippers,) the head and chest perfectly ereet, abdomen curv- ed and resting on the ground; the tail was also in an upright position. The animal, in this attitude, bore a striking resemblance to the representations we frequently meet with of the “mermaid," and I think it was, undoubtedly, one of the animals of this genus that first gave origin to the fable of the maid of the sea. I regret that I could not obtain a nearer view of this interesting animal. When I approached within one hundred feet, it threw itself flat, and made rapidly for the sea. [It appeared about twelve or fifteen feet in length, and distinctly more slender in proportion than any of the other species, so much so that the motion of the body, when moving, seemed perfectly un dulating. Some of the seamen had seen them frequently on a former voyage, and mentioned 18* 210 THE EXPLORERS' VISIT that they were known among sealers by the name of sea-serpent from this circumstance. Some of the teeth were brought to me which had been picked up on the beach; the crown of the grinders is deeply and singularly five- lobed. When these animals resort to the shores for the purpose of breeding, or shedding their hair, they are in fine condition. During this time they require no food, existing by the ab- sorption of their fatty matter :if killed at this period, you generally find a quantity of small stones in the stomach, swallowed most proba- bly for the purpose of keeping that organ dis- tended and preventing its internal surfaces from adhering to each other. When the sea- son for returning to the sea arrives, these stones are ejected on the beach, and they pro- ceed in search of their ordinary food, which is chiefly penguins. A singular character in the habit of these animals is the faculty they possess of shedding tears when in any way molested.' The eyes become suffused, and the large tear-drops chasing each other in quick suc- cession over their wrinkled faces, creates quite a sympathy in the breast of the beholder. Of the cetacea inhabiting the ocean, among these islands, the Balæna physalis, (fin whale,) TO THE SOUTH SHETLAND ISLES. 211 with a smooth belly, is very numerous: the B. mysticeus, (right whale,) is occasionally seen. The grampus and dolphins are quite common, and a species of porpoiso, which I had not be- fore seen, occurs in great numbers. From their appearance in the water, their colour seemed dark, with a broad, somewhat waved, white line extending from the posterior and inferior part of the head, backward and up- ward to the dorsal fin; a second and similar one commences on the abdomen, immediately below the termination of the first, and ends at the origin of the tail, above. These marks are distinctly visible as they glide through the sea They are called sea-skunks by the sailors. I am told they are confined to high southern latitudes. The birds which frequent these islands are much more numerous than any of the other classes of animals. Of penguins, there are five species. The Aptenodytes Patagonica, Lin. (king penguin,) is the largest and by far the most beautiful of the species, and may be seen in great numbers, covering the shores for some considerable extent. They are remark- ably clean in their appearance; not a speck of any kind is suffered, for a moment, to sully the pure whiteness of the principal part of their plumage; their upright position, uniform 212 THE EXPLORERS' VISIT cleanliness, and beautiful golden yellow cra- vat, contrasts finely with the dark back-ground by which they are relieved, so that the simili- tude is no inapt one, which compares them to a regiment of soldiers, immediately after pa- rade. The females lay but one egg on the bare ground, which is rather larger than that of a goose, and of about equal value as an ar- ticle of food, but differs a little in shape, being more tapering at its smaller end. The egg lies between the feet, the tail being sufficiently long to conceal it effectually from the sight. When approached, they move from you with a waddling gait, rolling it along over the smooth surface of the ground, so that a person, not ac- quainted with the fact, might pass through hundreds of them, without discovering it. The Spheniscus antarcticus, Shaw, (rookery pen- guin,) is more numerous than any of the other species, assembling together in vast congrega- tions, occupying the smooth strips of plain for a mile or more in extent:-passing through them, they barely give you sufficient space, picking at your legs, and keeping up a contin- ual chatter. Their whole appearance, as you walk along, brings powerfully to your recollec- tion, the story of Gulliver, striding among the Lilliputians. The Cyhrsocoma saltator, C. tor- guata, C. catarractes, Shaw, are occasionally TO THE SOUTH SHETLAND ISLES. 213 found along the beach, and scattered among the others. These birds swim with great velocity through the sea, and may be seen several feet in depth, shooting along in every direction; at short intervals rising to its sur- face, darting out again; at the same time utter- ing a quick sound, very similar to that pro- duced by a single blast on a split quill. Phalacrocorax graculus, Shaw, Sterna hirun- do, (?) Lin. Diomedea exulans, Lin. and fuliginosa, Lath. Daption capense-antarctic- um-niveum, Shaw, Fulmarius giganteus, and antarcticus, Shaw, are all very common. Pro- cellaria pelagica, Lin.; this is much smaller than any I observed in other parts of the ocean, and may probably prove a distinct species : they build their nests in the crevices of the rocks, into 'which they generally deposit two eggs; and not unfrequently are they buried far beneath the drifting snows; however, they soon succeed in working for themselves a comfortable passage to the light of day. Larus eburneus? Gmel. Lestris catarractes, Tem. are also common. Chionis Forsteri, Shaw, (sheath bill.) This is the white pi- geon, so often mentioned by mariners, as in- habiting the islands of the southern ocean; it is easily caught with the hand, and soon be- comes domesticated. We kept a number of 214 THE EXPLORERS' VISIT them several days, after leaving these islands ; they ran about the decks of the vessel, appa- rently without any disposition to leave them, feeding from the hand of any individual that offered them food. The molusca are very few, though unique. An interesting species of pholas, a beautiful nucula, and a fine patella, neither of which I think have been described, comprise all that we saw. The existence of a southern continent within the antarctic circle is, I conceive, a matter of much doubt and uncertainty; but, that there are extensive groups, or chains of islands, yet unknown, I think we have many indications to prove; and were I to express an opinion, I would say, that our course from the South Shetlands to the S. W., until we reached the 101° of west longitude, was at no great dis- tance along the northern shores of one of these chains. The heavy clouds of mist which en- circled us so often, could arise from no other cause than that of the influence of large quan- tities of snow or ice, on the temperature of the atmosphere; the hills of floating ice we, en- countered, could not form elsewhere than on the land. The drifting fuci we daily saw, grow only in the vicinity of rocky shores, and the penguins and terns that were almost at all times about us, from my observation of TO THE SOUTH SHETLAND ISLES. 215 their habits, I am satisfied never leave the land at any great distance. During our cruise to the south-west, above the 60° of south latitude, we found the current setting continually at a considerable rate to- wards the north-east, bearing the plants and ice along in its course, some of the latter em- bracing fragments of a rock, the existence of which we could discover no where on the is- lands we visited. When the westerly winds drew well towards the south, we were most generally enveloped in banks of fog, so dense that it was with difficulty we could distinguish objects at the distance of the vessel's length. When Palmer's Land becomes properly ex- plored, together with the known islands, situ- ated between the longitude of Cape Horn and that of Good Hope, I think they will prove to be the north-eastern termination of an exten- sive chain, passing near where Captain Cook's progress was arrested by the firm fields of ice, in latitude, 71° 10' S., and west longitude, about 105°; had that skilful navigator suc- ceeded in penetrating this mass of ice, he would unquestionably, in a short time, have made the land upon which it was formed. Captain Weddel, after passing the icy barrier to the east of the South Shetlands, succeeded in reaching the 74° 15' south, (the highest latitude PART VII. AN ACCOUNT OF THE NOTED AND BLOODY NAVAL BATTLE FOUGHT ON THE 220 OF SEPTEMBER, 1779, BETWEEN THE GOOD MAN RICHARD, UNDER THE COMMAND OF JOHN PAUL JONES; AND THE SERAPIS, COMMANDED BY CAPTAIN PARSON.* BY AN OFFICER IN THE UNITED STATES: NAVY, TO WHOM CHANCE GAVE A STATION IN THE BATTLE, THAT CONSPICUOUSLY TENDED TO THE VICTORY. WITH THE GALLANT CAPTAIN PAR- SON'S HONOURABLE AND LIBERAL REMARKS TO CAPTAIN JONES ON THE RESULT. The ships appear in sight of each other-Preparations for battle-The Serapis hails Laconic answer of Jones Battle commences-Lower deck guns burst Serapis rakes the G. M. Richard — Dreadful and sweeping slaughter of G. M. Richard's marines—Ships run foul of each other-Serapis drops her anchor-G. M. Richard's Staff and Ensign knocked into the sea-Both ships attempt to board, in turn are driven back-Both ships on fire -Daring bravery of officer and men of main-top- Slaughtering effect of a hand grenade-Surrender of the Serapis-Humane, honourable, and liberal remarks of Captain Parsons-Dead bodies of the slain-Bloody car- nage on the decks_The G. M. Richard abandoned-She sinks, head downwards—Whirlpool and narrow escape of boat-Arrival in the Texel—The sequel. * It is believed, that such a particular and correct account of this 19 218 PAUL JONES' The following detail of this noted naval battle is as given by this gallant officer. The author of this work has deemed its insertion would be interesting to the general reader, al- though of such ancient date. The narrator was in the rank of midship man on board of the Good Man Richard, and called to the honour of acting, previous to the battle, as private secretary to Commodore Jones; but it was in this case thought requisite, in his mind, to place the narrator in the com mand of the main-top, with fifteen sharp shooters and four seamen, with the direction to pay no attention in their fire, or missiles, on the enemy's decks until they had cleared her tops of their men. Encouraged by the words of Captain Jones, he repaired with this force to the command of the main-top, to see what could be done for the honour of our country, noted battle has never yet been presented to the public. It was found among this officer's papers after his decease. Rate of metal, and force of each ship. Good Man RICHARD, an old line-of-battle ship, (21 years of age,) cut down to a razee, and 402 men.-On her lower-gun-deck, six eigh- teen-pounders. On gun-deck, twenty-eight twelve and nine-pounders. On quarter-deck and spar-deck, six six-pounders. Serapis, a new ship, recently off the stocks, and 308 men.-On lower gun-deck, twenty eighteen-pounders. On upper gun-deck, twenty nine-pounders. On quarter-deck and forecastle, ten six- pounders. # NAVAL BATTLE. 219 and the national flag of stars and stripes flying over them. The action commenced seven minutes past eight, P. M., and lasted four hours and eight minutes. At four, P. M., on the 22d of September, 1779, the two ships came in sight of each other, the Good Man Richard having in com pany the Alliance and Pallais frigates. The only consort of the Serapis was the Coun- tess of Scarborough, a ship of only twenty-two guns, which, after a few broadsides, surren- dered to the Pallais frigate. After sighting the enemy's ships, signal was immediately displayed from the commodore's ship, the Good Man Richard, to the squadron, for a general chase, when in a few minutes before 8, P.M., we had nearly closed within hailing distance of the enemy, which now plainly showed her double row of teeth. Orders were now given by the commodore to haul up our courses, and clew up the top-gallant sails; at same time direct- ing, by signal, for the Alliance to support us. At first she kept aloof out of gun-shot, and afterwards, when she came up, she so badly performed as to do us more hurt than she did the enemy. The Pallais was also directed to attack the small ship. The enemy now hailed thus :-“What ship is that?” The answer NAVAL BATTLE. 221 men; in fine, she galled us in this manner so confoundedly, that orders were given to lay her aboard; accordingly, as she passed our fore-foot, we ran our jib-boom between her mizen shrouds and starboard mizen whang : Captain Jones at the same time in an audible voice, said, “That's well, my lads !—we've got her now!" The enemy, finding that they were foul of us, endeavoured to get clear, by letting go an anchor, but the wind dying away she swung round upon us, and carried away our ensign-staff and ensign, both falling into the sea, with her jib-boom; her jib-stay being now cut away aloft, fell in upon our poop, which Captain Jones, and the sailing master made fast to our mizen-mast. The firing had not ceased during these manœuvres except the cannon a-mid-ships, which now could not be worked or managed on board either ship. Se- veral attempts were now made to board the ene- my, but they did not succeed. The enemy also endeavoured to board us, and actually came on board, but were beaten back, and our men pur- sued them on board their ship, and were again repulsed in their turn; for we both lay so near together that it was an easy matter to step from one ship on board the other. It now fell entirely calm, and the enemy having an anchor down, we both rodę to it with . 19* 222 PAUL JONES the current, we being then about a league from Flamborough Head. The action had now been commenced about three hours and a quarter, when the enemy's tops were silenced, and we now directed our fire upon their decks with much success; about this time the enemy's light sails got on fire, this communicated to her riga ging, and from thence to ours. Thus, were both ships on fire at one and the same time. Therefore, the firing on both sides ceased till it was extinguished by the contending parties. The action then began anew, and was continu- ed sharply on both sides, when our carpenter went and told the gunner that our ship had four feet of water in her hold, that Captain Jones was killed, and all the rest of the officers that rank- ed above him, and that the only way for them to save their lives would be to go upon deck- call for quarters, and haul down our colours. Upon this the gunner and carpenter made haste to get on deck, and were joined on their way thither by the master-at-arms. As soon as they had got upon the quarter deck, they cried, "Quarters! quarters! for God's sake quarters! our ship is sinking." From this they mounted the poop with a design of hauling down the ensign, but finding them missing they descend ed to the pendant halyards, where they were met by Captain Jones, he being upon the fore- NAVAL BATTLE, 223 castle when they first came upon deck; hear- ing these fellows halloo for quarters, he cried out thus :“What cowardly rascals are these? shoot 'em, kill 'em!" "Having met with them, his pistols having been previously discharged, he sent them with all his force at these pol- troons, who immediately knew Jones, and fled below. Two of them were badly wounded in the head with Jones' pistols. : Both ships now took fire again, and on board of ours it had communicated to the main top, so that we were in the greatest consternation imaginable for some time, and it was not without some diffi- culty we quenched it. The enemy now cried, “If you ask quarters, why don't you strike your pendant ?”—“Aye, aye," said our commodore, “ we'll do it, when we can fight no longer, but expect to see you strike first." Having now began the action afresh, it was continued with redoubled vigour on both sides. The two ships now lay along- side each other with their yards locked, and having cleared the enemy's tops of their men, this gallant officer, in daring bravery, now led his men under his command, across on the ship's yards, and into the Serapis' top, and then directing their fire, with hand grenades, and other missiles, down on her decks, causing so much slaughter, as that in half an hour they 224 PAUL JONES' guns into could net perceive a single man of the enemy above deck. They, however, kept playing four of their starboard bow us, which still annoyed us, and which induced us in our main-top gang, to redouble our activity in the further able and effective acts which succeed- ed in driving their men from their stations at those before-mentioned guns, on their gun deck, in spite of their officers, and which acts were admitted as prominent in obtaining the victory. Thus, at length one of our hand grenades being thrown by us, from the top, fell upon the ene- my's upper gun-deck-from this, it rebounded, and fell between decks, where it set fire to some powder which lay scattered upon the enemy's lower gun-deck, and blew up (as we subse- quently learned), about seventeen of them. This threw them into confusion, and as they were upon the point of crying for quarters-the Al- liance unexpectedly made her appearance, and began a heavy fire upon us, as well as on the enemy, which at first, made some of our officers, as well as men, imagine that she was an English ship of war. The signals of reconnoissance was now or- dered to be made on board of our ship, which was three lanthorns placed in a horizontal line upon the fore, main, and mizen shrouds, to un- deceive the Alliance; as she had by this time NAVAL BATTLE. 225 killed eleven of our men, and wounded several others, by raking us; notwithstanding, we did at the first hail her, and told them that she was firing on the wrong ship. A few minutes after this accident, (although most of the officers of the Good Man Richard, and some belonging to the Alliance, think it was done designedly, *) and about a quarter past twelve, we were pleased with the crying out of “Quarters! quar- ters !” by our enemy. We immediately board- ed the enemy's ship. Thus ended this long and bloody fight, we having lost on our part one hundred and sixty men killed, mortally wound- ed, and missing. On the part of the enemy, , one hundred and thirty-eight men were killed, and died of their wounds-which were the number of lives lost in both ships. And those exclusive also of the wounded that recovered. Our prize proved to be the Serapis, command- ed by Captain Parson, who, after he had sur- rendered to us, with his lieutenant and other officers, came on board of our ship and inquir- ed for Captain Jones, for it seems he had been informed who commanded our ship. When they met, Captain Parson accosted his anta- Landais, the captain of the Alliance, (a Frenchman) and Captain Jones, were bitter enemies to each other, and it is thought that Landais took this opportunity of revenging him- self on his mortal enemy. 226 PAUL JONES' gonist thus, presenting him his sword, “ 'T is not without the greatest reluctance that I re- sign to you this, for of all men upon the face of the globe, 't is you that I hate the worst.” Jones took his sword, saying, “You have fought like a hero, and I make no doubt your sovereign will reward you in a most ample manner for it.” Captain Parson then asked our commodore of what his crew consisted, mostly Frenchmen, or Americans? “Ameri- cans," said the latter, "well,” said the former, then it has been diamond cut diamond with us-a desperate family fight, -brother against brother, for,” said he, “I must own, that I think the Americans equally as brave as the Eng- lish.” The Serapis had lost her main and mizen masts during the engagement, the former hav- ing been cut almost entirely off, by our shot, on a level with her gang-way, and having fallen overboard, as we swung from alongside of her.' We were now alarmed in having two ene- mies to encounter, almost as formidable as the one we had just conquered, viz. fire and water, we could not keep our ship free with all the pumps, and as many hands as could go to and work at them, but she kept gaining upon us, every minute, which was no great cause of sur- prise, we having received several shot between NAVAL BATTLE. 227 wind and water, (and some of these breaches could not be come at.) The fire had also com- municated itself to several parts of the ship, where it being dry and rotten, it was found im- practicable to extinguish it. In the dilemma, our commodore ordered the signal of distress to be made, and the Alliance, Pallais, and Vengeance brig, sent their boats to our assist- ance, when the commodore embarked, with Captain Parson, in one of them, and went on board of the Serapis, leaving orders with the narrator and another midshipman, to get all the powder up out of the magazine, and see that it was sent on board of the other ships of the squadron, together with all the wounded men, prisoners, &c.; and after having execu- ted these orders, to abandon the Good Man Richard. The fire had now communicated it- self to several parts, and burned with amazing rapidity within one foot of the magazine, Having got the powder and wounded men sent off , the prisoners (to the number of about fifty) made an attempt to take the ship from us, there being then on board but about twenty of our crew. They had made themselves master of our quarter-deck and forecastle, braced round the yards, and got her before the wind, with a design to run her ashore. In consequence of this another battle ensued; but having the 228 PAUL JONES greater part of the arms in our possession, (suitable for a close fight,) we soon got to be masters of the ship again, after killing two of them, and wounding several others. When the boats came alongside again, we caused these desperate fellows to be, by them, conducted on board of the Pallais. After the action had ceased, it was not thought advisable to despatch either of the squadron after the fleet of merchantmen in sight, whose convoy we had captured, as the situation of the Good Man Richard then needed the assistance of the whole of our squadron. Having now executed the orders of the commodore, left with us, we thought of leaving the poor Good Man Richard to the mercy of the waves. However, before doing so, I went down into the gun room with some men, to see to the embarkation of the officers' trunks which had been deposited here ; but, alas, what havoc ! not a piece of one of them could be found as large as a continental dollar bill; it is true, several shirts, coats, &c., were found, but so shockingly were they pierced, and cut in pieces with the enemy's shot, that they were not worth carrying off. There was such a breach from one side of the gun room to the other, that, (in the common way of speaking,) a coach and six could have passed through it. NAVAL BATTLE. 229 The number and bulk of splinters were prodi- gious, many of them as fine as carpenters' chips. After this, and taking a survey of the dead bodies that were scattered about the decks, I could not help shuddering at the hor- rid sight. The blood which had issued from them covered the decks in such a manner, that it was over shoe in several places. This dread- ful sight, I must confess, sickened the heart with feelings against ever battling again with our fellow-men, to such bloody destruction of human life. Upon the whole, I think, this slaughtering fight, may with propriety be said to have been a scene of carnage on both sides. During the action, the enemy had thrown into our gun-room a number of loose cannon cartridges, in order, as they afterwards owned, to blow us up. With the destruction of the offi- cers' trunks, the narrator lost all his wearing apparel; and those remaining on his back, at the close of the battle, were partly burned, in the act of extinguishing the several fires, especially those of the tops and rigging. We thought of nothing now but of abandon- ing the Good Man Richard, that was soon to serve so many as a sea coffin, and embarked accordingly in the boats, and soon after arrived alongside of the Serapis. Here Captain Jones ordered me not to get out of the boat, but to 20 230 PAUL JONES receive two or three additional men, and to promptly return back on board of the Poor Man Richard, for, said he, in such a part of my cabin you'll find such, and such papers go and bring them, and make no tarry. These orders I went to carry into effect if possible; the Good Man Richard was then lying head to the wind with her topsails aback. I shot up with my boat under her stern, and was just a-going to lay her alongside, when I perceived the water run in and out of her lower ports. This somewhat staggered and brought me to a stand, but very soon, finding our situation dan- gerous, I ordered the men to use their oars in backing off from her. We thus had got, I judged, about three rods from her, when she fetched a heavy pitch and disappeared instantaneously; but although we were now under brisk stern- way, gaining fast some farther rods from her, yet the agitation of the sea and its waves, with the whirlpool, was such that we came near sharing the same fate, and going down with her. Thus, sinking head downwards, went to the bottom the Good Man Richard, about four hours after her crew had taken possession of her prize; and it was a thankful relief to us, to safely step on the Serapis' deck on our re- turn to her. 232 ' 1 PAUL JONES' NAVAL BATTLE.board the first-mentioned ship, in the action with the Serapis, a King's ship of fifty guns, off Flamborough Head, while he had command of the main top, will, I hope, recommend him to the notice of Congress in the line of promotion, with his other merits. JOHN PAUL JONES. L'Orient, (in France,) December 17th, 1780. NOTE.—This brave and gallant officer, Lieutenant Na- thaniel Fanning, of the United States' Navy, (a brother of the author of Fanning's Voyages,) mentioned in this certificate, and bloody battle of unusual carnage, like the ever-to-be-la- mented and notedly-brave Commodore O. H. Perry, of U. S. Navy, was brought to the grave by an attack of the yellow- fever, while on active duty in command at the United States' naval station at Charleston, S. C., on the 30th day of Sep- tember 1805. 234 VOYAGE OF THE HERSILIA The Hersilia having obtained a cargo of fur seal skins at the South Shetland Isles, and having a favourable opportunity, shipped them home; and then, agreeably to the instructions given by the agent to her commander, she sailed on the 24th of February, 1821, from these Islands for the Pacific, with the view and intention of procuring another cargo, and thereby making a double voyage during the same trip. Further, by their successful seal hunting they obtained and completed their second cargo of 15,000 seal skins, and were then in May, 1821, at anchor in the Hersilia, in the North Bay at the Island of St. Mary's, situ- ated on the coast of Chili. Having now finish- ed their hunting excursions, and the taking of seals, they were preparing for sea, to depart on their passage home ; when, nearly ready, on the point of weighing anchor, and expecting certainly in a few hours to sail on their passage to double Cape Horn, on their return with their second valuable cargo, they were suddenly surprised, and their vessel, their heretofore so fortunate and charming little Hersilia taken, and themselves made prisoners, by a gang of ruffians calling themselves soldiers, belonging to the army, and under the orders of that bar- barian chief, General Beneviades, who was at this time in command of the royal Spanish TO THE SOUTH SEAS. 235 bar; army, then encamped opposite to St. Mary's Isle, on the main land of Chili. His head quarters were at Arauco, a walled town, situa ted a short distance up in the country from the mouth of the river of the same name. The mouth of this river having at it a sand bar, af- forded no harbour for vessels of burden, as only their pereaugos could pass over, and into the river, owing to the shallow water on the vessels of burthen having business with the town, or up the river, were obliged to an- chor in the road off, and without the bar. The Hersilia's two boats were on shore at Isle St. Mary's when captured with her officers, and all her crew, (excepting five that remained with the captain on board,) where they had had on shore a washing day in the preparation of their duds, for a sea passage home, when, as they were on the point of embarking themselves and effects in their boats, to repair on board of their brig, they were on a sudden surprised by this gang from their ambush, of thirty-six pirate soldiers, a detachment from the Grand Royal Army, under the command of the before men- tioned chief Beneviades, in charge, and con- ducted by a stony-hearted, inhuman officer, by name Crayro. They had come over from the Main, and landed on another part of the island, and thus, at 8 P. M. on the 14th of May, 1821, 236 VOYAGE OF THE HERSILIA in the dusk of the evening, they surprised the Hersilia's men with a charge upon them by loaded musquets, and at the point of the bay- onet forced them up on the beach from their boats, where they were very roughly treated; and after being thus made prisoners, and all bound hand and foot, they were threatened by the guard set over them with instant death if they made any noise, lest it should alarm Captain Sheffield and those on board the brig. Matters on shore being thus accomplished and arranged by these freebooters, their pirate leader, Crayro, embarking twelve of his men in each of our boats, proceeded off to capture and get posses- sion of the Hersilia. The boats, one on each side of her, boarded her at one and the same time. Thus, in turn, was the unsuspecting captain and those on board with him, surprised by the unwelcome “Halloo !” in ruffian tones, you are our prisoners !" They ordered Cap- tain Sheffield to be silent, and with the charged musquet at his breast, and suspended sword over his head, to repair instantly as a prisoner to his state-room, where a sentry was set over him, and at the same time the men were driven at the point of the bayonet down into the fore- castle. What a change of feelings these inno- cent American mariners must now have felt, from those of an hour previous! Having com- TO THE SOUTH SEAS. 237 pleted their valuable cargo, and just on the point of sailing for home, to thus meet with such a severe rebuff! What a weight of the most agonizing feeling must at the time have preyed on the mind of their worthy commander, while reflecting, a prisoner in his state-room! The reader can well judge, as all, all their flattering and pleasing hopes were thus blasted, and so suddenly changed into the severe and heart- aching contrary. These barbarians having thus made the capture of the vessel, and all on board, or be- longing to her, proceeded with the boats to bring the bound prisoners off from the shore on board, when they tumbled them in such a rough, unfeeling manner down below deck, as if they were sacks of carpenters' chips. They then got the brig under way and steer- ed her over across the bay for the mouth of the river Arauco, where they anchored her in the road, just without the bar, making across the mouth of the river, when they very promptly took Captain Sheffield, with all the officers and crew, (except Mr. Daniel W. Clark, our first officer, whom they retained on board to navi- gate her for them in such employment as their tyrant general should thereafter please direct) forthwith on shore. Having now unbound them, they marched them directly off as prisoners TO THE SOUTH SEAS. 239 if they could not in their confined limits pro- cure their own fuel ; an article was also given in small black rolls of the coarsest kind, sup- posed to be made from a mixture of barley and beans, said by them to be bread; they, how- ever, obtained some of this only once or twice a week. This, those truly suffering Ameri- cans assert, was their regular fare in provisions for their subsistence, but a full allowance of fresh water was granted to them, on their going to the spring for it. To add to this hard fare, the worst of usage and daily curses were heaped on them. In sustaining life, by such scanty and miserable daily rations, they not only had to labour hard during the day, like menial servants for their masters, but were also forced to do military duty, in their turns, on sentry through the night. The author here takes pride in mentioning an evidence showing how well and patriotically those suffering citi- zens from Stonington supported the American national character during their unjust and se- vere imprisonment. Kellogg and his shipmate, by name Stanton, being in middle time of night, on sentry, at each of their different posts, when Beneviades, in disguise, as was his frequent practice of go- ing the rounds at different times during the night, to satisfy his mind as to the watchful 240 VOYAGE OF THE HERSILIA alertness of the sentries, came up within a rod's distance of Kellogg, requesting of him in a familiar manner to be permitted to pass, Kel- logg, in answer, told him to advance and give the counter-sign, Beneviades hesitated, then said, he was their general, Kellogg promptly and sternly answered, “I am aware of my duty, I know you not now as such," at the same time charging with the point of his lance within a foot of Beneviades' breast, he more firmly said, “give me the counter-sign before you stir a step, or you are a dead man,” Bene- viades instantly gave him the counter-sign, threw off his disguise so far as to make him- self truly known to Kellogg, observing to him, that he was a true and good soldier, and then passed on On his coming to the place where Stanton was posted, he met with the like re- ception; but, on the contrary with his own sol- diers, mostly all let him pass without giving the counter-sign, on his observing to them, as he had to Kellogg, that he was their general, two excepted, whom he found asleep. On the next day, when his army was on parade, he ordered his officers, and Captain Sheffield and his crew to the centre, informed them of his tour on the rounds in the night, told of his reception by the different sentries, spoke in the highest praise of his confidence TO THE SOUTH SEAS. 241 and the dependence he could place in Captain Sheffield and his Americans ; then severely re- primanded his officers for their neglect of dis- cipline, and charge to their veteran soldiers, as he called them; as for instance, a serious fault had been committed during the past night, which he had just mentioned, when they were set on sentry. Then ordering the two unfor- tunates he found asleep on their posts, to be punished according to their offence, he dismis- sed the parade. About this time Beneviades observing Cap- tain Sheffield to be an expert and smooth pen- man, set him and Captain Morrison, of a Bos- ton brig, which had been captured at Isle St. Mary's, in much the same manner as the Her- silia, but, subsequently, in July, about two months after the capture of the Hersilia, to making for him paper money, treasury bills, as this noted general and dictator called them. The bills were made from the sheet of white Spanish paper, which was cut into strips of about the size of ordinary bank bills, and then by Captain Sheffield, encircled by flourishes with the pen. Within these flourishes were written the amount, and date, and the bills were made payable to the bearer, at his trea- sury, when in funds, to be paid out of the mili- tary chest of the army. Thus prepared, they 21 TO THE SOUTH SEAS. 243 discharged, and her cargo put into some store huts on the ridge of the beach near to the chops of the mouth of the river, some heavy cannon were mounted on her deck, and she was fitted out as a royal cruiser of war, manned with about one hundred officers and men, mostly taken from their army ranks, all under the command of a colonel. Mr. Clark was forced to navigate her wherever this colonel and com- manding officer should direct, under penalty of death if he hesitated or refused. She sailed to cruise off and along the coast, and to put into St. Carlos, in the Island of Chiloe, for provisions and specie, to be received from the governor of that colony for the army of Beneviades. She was several weeks en- gaged on this cruise and service, and then re-. turned to Arauco with her cargo of specie, &c. However, in a few days after again anchoring in Arauco Road, there began to blow a norther, which soon increased to a heavy gale, and drove our beautiful, captured Hersilia, from her an- chors and on shore, where she remained at low water, high and dry, on the beach. Afterthis gale had subsided, and we had again fair weather, Beneviades consulted with Captain Sheffield on the prospect of getting the brig off the beach again ; and on proceeding to a survey of her situation with this famous general, Captain TO THE SOUTH SEAS. 249 tinued and detained them on the island until the sixth day. This time was very severely trying to their minds, for although it prevented Beneviades sending at present any detachment after them, still it gave to him time to repair the stoven boats, and thereby enable him to send in pursuit after them as soon as the storm should sufficiently abate. They were, there- fore, very anxious to proceed to a place where they would be surely clear, and out of fear of him and his unfeeling warriors. Also, they could here procure nothing to subsist upon but raw seals' flesh, and wild fruits. CH A P T E R I II. Boats put out to sea—Their suffering in them during their voyage-Effect a landing at Moula on the coast of Chili -Kind treatment and reception from the inhabitants— Travel to Valparaiso—United States' consul-U. S. fri- gate Constellation, kindness of her gallant commander and officers-British flag ship, 74—And sloop of war-Gene- rous and noble proceedings of the British Admiral, Sir T. M. Hardy HOWEVER, on the sixth day, the storm having abated, and having provided a quantity of seals' flesh for sea stores, they launched forth and left the island, steering out to sea in their small and tender craft, holding a course to the north- TO THE SOUTH SEAS. 251 ting to their wants and comfort in provisions (which now tasted to them like a Connecticut thanksgiving treat,) and necessaries; and to all appearance manifesting much good feeling to- wards them in their late sufferings. On their arrival at Valparaiso they were re- ceived with true fatherly kindness and atten- tion by the United States' Consul, Michael Hogan, Esquire. There were at moorings in the harbour the United States' frigate Constel- lation, the gallant commander and officers of which were very kind to them; and also a British 74, and sloop of war, under Commodore Sir T. M. Hardy, the senior officer now in command of Her Britannic Majesty's squadron on the Pacific station. As soon as Admiral Hardy was informed of the arrival of Captain Sheffield, his officers and men, and of their sufferings, and escape from that barbarian chief, Beneviades, as also their distressful situ- ation, he promptly, with the noblest and most humane feelings, sent an officer on shore with an invitation to Captain Sheffield, saying, that he should be much pleased to receive him on board his ship. With this invitation Captain Sheffield immediately complied, when he was by this venerable and worthy commodore most cordially received into his stately cabin, and gave the detail of his capture, and the suffer- 252 VOYAGE OF THE HERSILIA ings they had experienced from Beneviades. After a few minutes consideration, the commo- dore asked if his vessel and crew belonged to Stonington, being answered in the affirmative, this gallant commodore then put the following questions to him: “Would there be, do you think, any probability, if you were assisted by a vessel of war, Captain Sheffield, of recover- ing the liberty of the remainder of your men, and your property from Beneviades ?” " With such a force as you speak of, sir, under the orders of Commodore Hardy, I think Bene- viades would deliver up the men to me, with the Hersilia's cargo; at any rate, thus situated and supported, I should be freely willing to put at risk, and in requisition, my person, time, and service, to try the experiment, should Commodore Hardy think the trial worth at- tempting.” Then, without further loss of time in deliberation, this highly worthy commander sent an officer for the captain of the sloop of war, Conway, with orders to repair on board the flag-ship. On the captain's entering the cabin, the commodore said, “I have the plea- sure to introduce to you, sir, Captain Sheffield, late in command of the American brig, Hersi- lia, who has been very unfortunate ;" and then observed to him, thus, “You will, sir, receive Captain Sheffield on board of your ship as a 254 VOYAGE OF THE HERSILIA CHAPTER I V. Captain Sheffield sails for Arauco in the British sloop of war, Conway-Anchor at Arauco-Town and store buildings in flames.A bloody battle-Patriot and royal armies- The defeated armies_Courteous and kind conduct of the commander of His B. M. sloop of war, Conway-Captain Sheffield and men return in the Conway to Valparaiso- Close of the narrative.. CAPTAIN Sheffield took leave of the gallant commodore, and repaired with her able com- mander on board the British sloop of war, Conway, which was soon under way on her trip up the coast of Chili for Arauco. After a very agreeable passage, on the fifth day there- after, they brought the sloop at anchor in the road of Arauco. But, to their surprise, the town and store buildings at the mouth of the river, and even the beautiful little wrecked Hersilia on the beach, as well as the other vessels captured by the orders and force of this noted chief, Beneviades, were seen in flames, all, all rapidly consuming by the fire. On landing, they found the patriots in com- mand, and were informed that a desperate and bloody battle had just been fought and decided between the patriot and royal armies, in which the latter, under Beneviades, had been defeat- ed with much slaughter. He had then set fire TO THE SOUTH SEAS. 255 to the town and store buildings which we saw in flames, and had retreated with his surviving force into the wilderness at the foot of the mountains. The store buildings wherein the cargo of the Hersilia, when captured, was de- posited, were now burned, and the vessel like- wise destroyed. Thus was lost to all concern- ed, this fine new American brig Hersilia, to- gether with her valuable cargo. Her carpen- ter and armourer, Messrs. Guard and Gallop, had, during the confusion and bustle of the battle before-mentioned, deserted over to the patriot army, and were then permitted to re- pair on board of one of the patriot vessels of war, from which, by request of Captain Shef- field, they were now received on board of the sloop of war Conway, by order of her worthy captain,* who sent his officer and boat for them, and who, it appears, treated Captain Sheffield, under his misfortune, truly indeed, like a brother in distress. Captain Sheffield, in the hurry of embarking on 'board of his sloop, when at Valparaiso, to sail for Arauco, had gone on board with no other apparel save the suit he had on, but as soon as at sea, this * Here the author would respectfully remark, that it is with much regret he finds the name of this very meritorious British commander omitted in the note of record taken while Captain Sheffield was among the living. 256 VOYAGE OF THE HERSILIA gallant officer of the British navy, not only freely tendered, but even insisted, in the warmth of persuasion, on Captain Sheffield's making free use of his wardrobe, as if it was his own; and in addition to his numerous friendly acts of comfort to those bare and distressed Ame- rican mariners, he urged Captain Sheffield, when they came to part, to take and accept of a sum of money to provide for his and their passage home; saying, he would take no voucher for it, and that if thereafter it should not be perfectly convenient for him to return t, then never to think of it, or let it in the least trouble his mind. Captain Sheffield returned to him his most unfeigned thanks for this very generous tender, and for his many favours and kindness, saying, that the United States' Con- sul had kindly furnished him with all the pe- cuniary aid he should require. The embassy to Arauco of the commander of His Britannic Majesty's sloop, being thus, by the goodness and merit of the admiral, Sir T. M. Hardy, carried into effect, her anchor was weighed, and she returned back to the port of Valparaiso, where her able commander made his report to his senior in the command of the British squadron on this station; when that fatherly United States' Consul, M. Hogan, Esq., joined with Captain Sheffield in present- TO THE SOUTH SEAS. 257 ing their heartfelt thanks to the British com- modore, Sir T. M. Hardy, for his benevolent and kind assistance in endeavouring to relieve the unfortunate. Captain Sheffield thereon remarked, in his acknowledgment, that the kind and handsome manner in which these favours had been conferred by the noble ad- miral, and the generous and courteous com- mander of His Britannic Majesty's sloop, Con- way, would never be erased from his heart and memory. In fact, Captain Sheffield now says, that the doings, acts, and treatment of the admiral to the unfortunate, was praise- worthy beyond expression, or any thing he could say. With many and grateful thanks for the same meritorious acts, &c., as an Ame- rican citizen, and agent of the Hersilia's voy- age, the author closes the narrative, simply re- marking, that Captain Sheffield, his officers, and men took passage, and arrived safely at their home in the United States. 22# 1 APPENDIX. AMERICAN NATIONAL SOUTH SEA EXPLOR- ING EXPEDITION. New-York, January 3, 1838.—The author being informed by letters from Washington, that Commodore Thomas Ap C. Jones has re- signed the command of the United States South Sea Exploring Expedition ; and also that it was in contemplation to reorganize the expedition, as to the vessels, &c.; and the author having at its first commencement ad- dressed and forwarded to His Excellency, President Jackson, a letter containing his plan and views on the expedition, as to the kind of vessels, &c., which should compose the expe- dition, to warrant, in his humble opinion, a promise of the greatest benefit and most bril- liant result; he therefore felt it now a duty again to communicate the like, by letter, of si- milar tenor, to His Excellency President Van Buren, and promptly forwarded to his Excel- lency the following address : 260 APPENDIX. New-York, December 18th, 1837. To His Excellency MARTIN VAN BUREN, President of the United States, Washington City. I have respectfully to observe, that, believ- ing it to be the duty of every good citizen, when he has reason to believe his country re- quires it, to contribute his aid, if ever so small and humble, as well in the aid by light on any measure of government, as otherwise ;—this, with the reported difficulty that appears to have risen on the Exploring Expedition, has caused the idea to come up to my mind, and with the utmost respect, to again lay before the Presi- dent, in recommendation, (if it is to be reorganiz- ed) my original plan and view, as to what vessels, &c., should best compose an American National Discovery and Exploring Expedition to the South Seas, &c., to warrant the greatest benefit, and give a promise of the most bril- liant result in every view, viz. In the greatest respectful deference to all others, and their opinions, my practical know- ledge would recommend a well constructed and light armed navy-like flag ship, with the most superior comfortable accommodations for all on board, which would cost, say $100,000, with 262 APPENDIX. greatest despatch and safety, and certainly in much less time than the present prepared expe- dition possibly could ; and it appears to my ex- perience, with that of the economy, of less than a moiety of the amount of its expense ; in fact, in every view, does it not appear wise that such a squadron would be the preferable ? and surely it would be truly American, and carry thus with it, special national dignity. And as all the now provided articles, provisions, in- struments, &c., &c., could be transferred over to them, those three most proper vessels* could be completed, and at anchor off our bat- * A wise government should never send a vessel to pene- trate into the icy regions towards the South Pole, unless she was able to take and had on board at least eighteen months full allowance of fuel and provisions, to the safety of those on board; as when she is advanced into these regions, her scene may, in spite of all human precaution, in an hour's time, be changed from that of a clear sky, and free of ice, to being enveloped in a thick dense fog--and before this clears away, she may get beset, and fast, in a vast field of ice, extending beyond the vision, and thus detained through a long winter, and even the next season in extricating her, to the liberty of proceeding on any desired course. And to send her on this route without being thus wisely provided, would seem to be sporting with valuable lives. Also vessels sent on this ser- vice should have two decks, and be of the most expert work- ing, and swiftest sailing vessels. And further, those two smaller vessels are certainly not the safest to explore and survey singly among the islands and natives in the Pacific, 264 APPENDIX. pedition, has been referred to this department, and shall receive a respectful consideration. I am with great respect, your ob'd't servant, M. DICKERSON. Captain EDMUND FANNING, New-York. Finally, in closing, the author would re- spectfully remark, that the part he has acted, touching on this laudable national enterprise, with the purest intentions and views to serve his country, is herein faithfully recorded ; and he cheerfully leaves it with a generous public, and the candid reader, to judge, and decide, whether he is subject to any blame, as his aid by knowledge in experience of voyaging to those parts, and seas, has never been called into requisition in its preparations ; also to judge if this omission has not been at least unwise touching its organization, delay, or tending to its failure, (which heaven forbid,) should the expedition entirely fail of ever de- parting from an American port. Let them de- termine whether he has been treated according to his merits, and patriotic intentions, to serve his country by aid to navigation, commercial trade, the whale and seal fisheries, science, &c., &c., as well as to make it more safe to the voyaging storm suffering mariner, while on APPENDIX. 265 his route traversing those seas and oceans. And whether the author has had his merits so awarded in relation to his acts and doings, touching on this national enterprise and sub- ject, by a just and liberal treatment, &c., as to encourage other citizens to appropriate their choicest time in life, in patriotic acts, and re- searches for the general good and benefit of their country. As the author conceives, if this national expedition be worth any thing to the nation, then he has been very unhandsomely and ungratefully treated, in being kept aside, and not admitted to participate in its fit out, even if no benefit should have been derived thereby. The author has deemed it but justice due, to thus place on record before the public, and the world, the part he has acted relative to this national project, lest error, and a false view, should hereafter come up into belief, to the in- jury of a plain voyager, and with all respect- ful deference, he hopes this will be a satisfac- tory apology to those highly worthy gentlemen and citizens whose names he has been under the necessity to use in composing this work. He will only respectfully add, that it may be confidently believed, that had such three ships, properly fitted, have departed from our port on this Discovery and Exploring Expedition in 23 268 APPENDIX. formation from Washington, that government had it under consideration to make a change of the vessels then prepared for the South Sea Exploring Expedition, by substituting the sloops of war Vincennes and Peacock, with a packet-built ship; he is confident, from per- sonal experience, that sloops of war are not the best, or even well adapted for a flag-ship, or for explorers to such an expedition and service. They can sail around the world, it is true, with the despatch of a vessel of war, by having the attendance of a store-ship, or some like re- source to attend to their occasional wants and timely supplies of provisions, fuel, &c., but are certainly not the best adapted vessels for a voyage of discovery and exploration in all climes, latitudes, and seas. The author there- fore felt it a duty, and promptly forwarded the following letter to His Excellency the Presi- dent of the United States. New-York, February 8th, 1838. To His Excellency MARTIN VAN BUREN, President of the United States, Washington City I would respectfully crave once more to ad- dress the President on the South Sea Explor- APPENDIX. 269 ing Expedition, as I cannot but consider my- self the father of the project in its first start and rise into authorization, and which, to my mind, appears so plain and easy to be carried brilliantly into effect, with the proper vessels, &c. Being informed from Washington, that go- vernment have it under consideration to make a change in the vessels of the expedition, by substituting two sloops of war, the relief, a packet ship, and a schooner, in the room of the frigate and her prepared craft; if this - be the fact, with all respectful deference, I should think those more illy adapted to perform this service, than the frigate and her small vessels And if the packet ship is intended to accommodate the scientific gentlemen, it is not unwise to separate the main of the scientific corps from an immediate and constant associa tion with its commander. I therefore, in the utmost respect, beg to sub- mit the following suggestion, viz.-As the Macedonian is prepared, to let her go as the flag-ship, supported by the relief store-ship, and cause to be promptly constructed by the force of our carpenters, &c. here, two small proper ships as the explorers, let those four depart as the squadron ; my life on it, those were. 23* APPENDIX. 271 his heart has so long been set, to a supreme idea of pleasure and gratification, in the hope of seeing this favourite national enterprise sail, and return during his time of life with brilliant success, and honour to the nation, its navy, science, &c., and thereby adding much to the American character. And now, when fate has so singularly and slowly dragged it forward into partial preparation ; still if ever the squad- ron proceed on its discoveries and explora- tions, its performance and result are yet wrapt in the darkness of futurity, and to the author most likely ever will be ; as after its being so long suspended on the wings of doubt, must defeat his anxious expectation, as should it now, this day, depart from the shore of Ame- rica, there is a very small prospect that the author, by his advanced age, would be found among the living on its return. The author would not have the reader un- derstand by the tenor of his lettér, as above to the President, that he would have preferred a frigate to all other vessels as a flag-ship, or to that of a ship built expressly for this particular service and station, which, like the two sug- gested exploring ships, could receive before sailing all her main wants on board for her voyage, and therefore, not liable to disappoint- ment and delay, by being dependent on a store- 272 APPENDIX. ship. But, as the Macedonian had been pre- pared ready to depart—to prevent any further delay in the sailing of the expedition, he deem- ed it best to employ her as the flag-ship; as first intended. A sloop of war being not only much smaller, but single decked, is thus by no means well calculated for a flag and home ship to such an expedition. If, at the very first, one of our splendid large packet ships, or a vessel modelled and constructed like them, had been selected or decided on to have been employed as the flag-ship to this uncommon new service, frigate rigged, and lightly, navy-like armed, it would, in the author's humble opinion, have been a wise and good selection. The author having been honoured in the command of a corvette ship of war of 22 guns, commissioned by the elder President Adams, on an exploring voyage around the world; and important discoveries having been by him made, to much national benefit-and such voy- age having been well and safely performed, is it not likely that he should by this, and his many other like voyages, as well as great ex- perience in ship building, be somewhat of a judge, as to what kind of vessels would be the most suitable, and best in promise to perform on a National Discovery and Exploring Expe- dition, to all seas and climes? As also to the 274 APPENDIX. 2 first three ratlines of the mizen shrouds under water." The author would most respectfully ask, how could American talent and wisdom deem such vessels the most suitable as flags or ex- plorers, especially to navigate on this new and extraordinary service, and in all climes and latitudes, such as the regions of the icy seas, where much heavier weather, and more violent gales would be expected to be met with, than in the milder latitudes? Having at all times in view, and expectation to perform, and ac- complish by American perseverance, fortitude, and talent, beyond what has been heretofore performed by all other navigators, since the days of Columbus, and thereby to advance the American character; he would inquire, are such vessels (sloops of war,) to be selected, prefer- red, and chosen, to thus perform on this new and important service; and that too, after build- ing three other vessels expressly for it, which, after trial, are found unfit. Alas! my country ; has all thy wisdom and Yankee 'cuteness of character flown to the winds. The following extract of a letter to the Hon. tion when rebuilt, which deadened her buoyant life, and thereby prevented her prompt rise over the giant sea, like a first rate sea-boat, 25th CONGRESS, 2d Session. [Doc. No. 147.] Ho, or REPS. Erecutive. EXPLORING EXPEDITION. MESSAGE FROM THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES, TRANSMITTING The information required by a resolution of the House of Representatives of 7th December last, in relation to the Delay in the Outfit, foc., for the Exploring Expedition. FEBRUARY 7, 1838. Read, and laid upon the table. WASHINGTON City, February 5, 1838. SIR: I have the honour to transmit to you a report from the Secretary of the Navy, prepar- ed in obedience to a resolution of the House of Representatives of the 7th December last, re- quiring information as to the causes which have delayed the outfit and preparation of the South Sea Surveying and Exploring Expedition. M. VAN BUREN. To the Hon. JAMES K. POLK, Speaker of the Ho. of Reps. APPENDIX. 279 Navy DEPARTMENT, February 5, 1838. SIR: I have the honour to transmit to you a report, in obedience to the resolution of the House of Representatives of the 7th December last, in relation to the delay of the sailing of the Exploring Expedition. I am, very respectfully, Your obedient servant. M. DICKERSON. To the PRESIDENT of the United States. Navy DEPARTMENT, February 5, 1838. SIR: In obedience to a resolution of the House of Representatives of the 7th December last, calling for the causes which have delayed the outfit and preparation of the South Sea Sur- veying and Exploring Expedition, required by the act of Congress of May, 1836, making ap- propriations for the naval service; and copies of all letters, documents, and communications, which have passed between the Secretary of the Navy, the Commissioners of the Navy Board, the officer appointed to the chief com- mand, and of all other officers or persons, re- lative to all matters connected with the prepa- ration, outfit, and sailing of the said expedition, and the causes which now delay its sailing; I beg leave to state that, in my report of the 2d of December last, I gave a brief detail of the 280 APPENDIX. circumstances which had caused the delay of the sailing of this expedition up to that time, when I believed that it was about to leave our coast. The vessels of the squadron were at the harbour of New York, nearly ready for sea; the scientific corps had been directed to report to the commander, and had done so, and were ready to embark. My sailing instruc- tions were given as early as the 10th of Novem- ber; the seamen, ordinary seamen, marines, and boys, had re-entered, and received their bounty, in whole or in part, to the amount of three months' pay; when, on being permitted to go on shore, they deserted, to the number of one hundred and fifty-five; and Commodore Jones, harassed with the trouble and labour of preparing his vessels for sea, found his health so entirely destroyed that he could not, either in justice to himself or to the country, longer continue in command of the squadron. He transmitted the copy of a letter from Dr. R. Ticknor, fleet surgeon of the expedition, dated at New York, November 30, 1837, stating that the commodore's health had been in a bad state for some time; that, from the violent cough under which he was suffering, from the bloody expectoration and soreness in the chest, it was evident that the lungs were diseased to such a degree as to demand serious attention; and that, considering his predisposition to pulmon- APPENDIX 281 ary disease, and the unfavourable influence of the climate of that place upon such predisposi- tion, it was his opinion that a change of climate was the only measure from which the desired benefit could be obtained. He therefore strong- ly advised the commodore to leave that climate, and go to his residence in Virginia, as soon as the state of his health and the weather would permit. Under these circumstances, the commodore's request to be relieved from the command of the squadron was immediately granted; al- though this measure could not fail to be attend- ed with the most embarrassing circumstances, as it respected the sailing of the squadron. Great difficulty was apprehended in finding a successor to Commodore Jones, able and will- ing to take the command of the squadron, as it had been organized, or to remodel the same. All these difficulties have been fully realized. The command has been offered to three distin- guished officers, who have declined it; a fourth has been ordered, who will not be permitted to decline, under whom the squadron will be reorganized on a reduced scale, and through whose agency there is a fair prospect of real- izing the important objects of the expedition. I have endeavoured to lay before Congress the important facts connected with the fitting 24* 282 APPENDIX. out of this expedition in my annual report of the 3d of December, 1836; in my letter of the 6th of February last, in answer to a call of the House of Representatives for information as to the progress made with regard to the Explor- ing Expedition, (Doc. No. 138;) in my letter of the 12th of October last, in answer to a call of the House of Representatives in relation to the detention of the sailing of the Exploring squadron, (Doc. No. 50 ;) and in my last an- nual report of the ad of December last. To these documents I beg leave to refer as explan- atory of the present report. I will now attempt to restate the leading facts contained in those documents, with such remarks and additional information as the present resolution seems to require. In the act of the 14th of May, 1836, making appropriations for the naval service, it was pro- vided that the President of the United States be authorized to send out a Surveying and Ex- ploring Expedition to the Pacific Ocean and South Seas; and for that purpose to employ a sloop of war, and to purchase or provide such other smaller vessels as might be proper and necessary to render such expedition efficient and useful; for which the sum of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars was appropriated : and, in addition thereto, if necessary, the Pre- APPENDIX. 283 sident was authorized to use other means in the control of the Navy Department, not exceeding one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, for the objects required. It is evident that a sloop of war, a brig, and a schooner, was as large a force as it was the intention of Congress to employ on this expedition. Had this plan been adopted, the expedition, with a small scientific corps, and such instruments and books as were to be pro- cured in the country, might have sailed before the meeting of Congress of that year; although this would have interfered with other branches of the naval service, then requiring the imme- diate attention of the Navy Department. Captain Thomas Ap Catesby Jones was se lected as the commander of the expedition. The confidence placed in this officer, which led to his appointment to this important trust, in- duced the President to rely upon his opinion as to the proper force to be employed. He was of the opinion that one frigate of the second class, one store-ship, two barques or brigs, and one schooner, were indispensably ne- cessary to the success of the enterprize. In ac- cordance with which opinion, measures were taken for preparing the vessels and fitting out the expedition. The frigate Macedonian and store-ship Relief were upon the stocks at the 284 APPENDIX. time this measure was adopted, and were or- dered to be finished without delay, and the three other vessels were ordered to be built- the whole under the immediate superintendence of Commodore Jones, who was authorized to visit, as often as he should think proper, the different navy yards of Boston, New-York, Phi- ladelphia, and Norfolk, for the purpose of giv- ing such directions and instructions as he might deem necessary. As this great national enterprise would cost more for its outfit than the whole sum appro- priated for the expedition, it was evident that it could not leave our coast until further appro- priations should be made. This afforded an opportunity of sending to Europe for books and instruments for the scien- tific corps to be attached to the squadron; and rendered it proper to increase the proposed number for such corps, so as to bear a just proportion to the great scale of the expedition. Lieutenant Wilkes, of the navy, was sent to Europe, with ample funds, to procure the ne- cessary books and instruments, and embarked at New-York on the 8th of August, 1836. As at this time it was necessary to fit out a squadron for the Pacific, another for the coast of Brazil, and to add to our squadron in the West Indies, it was evident that great difficulty 286 APPENDIX. sels of this squadron, to wit: the frigate Mace- donian, the store-ship Relief, of 460 tons, the barques Pioneer and Consort, of 230 tons each, and the schooner Pilot, of 114 tons. The Re- lief was launched on the 14th of September, 1836; the Pioneer on the 26th, and the Con- sort on the 29th of October; the Pilot about the same time, and the frigate Macedonian on the 1st of November. The barques and schoon- er, with the store-ship, were equipped and sent round to Norfolk, from which harbour they might sail at any season of the year. Before this time, a difficulty had occurred as to the appointment of two officers to the com- mand of two of the smaller vessels, which, al- though it occasioned no delay in the sailing of the squadron, had an unfavourable effect upon the preparations for the expedition. It was my wish to employ such officers of the navy as were distinguished for science, in this expedition, as far as this could conveniently be done; and to employ but a small number of scientific gentlemen not belonging to the navy. Upon such an arrangement I believed the ultimate success of the expedition was to depend, and have not changed that opinion. Lieutenant Slidell, distinguished for his scientific attainments and elegant literature, seemed peculiarly well qualified to take a place APPENDIX. 287 in the expedition; I, therefore, proposed to or- der him to the command of one of the smaller vessels of the squadron, and to charge him with the duty of writing a history of the voyage. To this Commodore Jones, after taking time for inquiry and consideration, objected in a written communication. This I received and considered ; for the rule I had adopted as to this expedition was, not only to permit Com- modore Jones to select his officers, such as commanders of squadrons are usually permitted to select, but, of those to be selected by this Department, not to appoint any against whom he might have well-founded objections; and such were the instructions to me from the Pre- sident. The objections to Lieutenant Slidell appear- ed to me not only unfounded, but unjust to the professional character and standing of that officer. As he requested a copy of those ob- jections, which were made a matter of record in this Department, it was, with the assent of Commodore Jones communicated to him; and he was left to answer the allegations which had been made against him. I proposed to order Lieutenant Wilkes to the command of the schooner, from a belief that his knowledge in mathematics and astrono- my would be of great service to the expedition; 288 APPENDIX. with a view to which, he had been selected to go to Europe for instruments and books, as be- fore stated. To him also, Commodore Jones objected in a written communication. His ob- jections appeared to me not to be well found- ed; I, however, did not order either of these officers, but reserved the subject for the con- sideration of the President, who was then ab- sent from the seat of government. On his re- turn, it was laid before him, and he decided in favour of ordering those officers, as I had pro- posed. As, however, the correspondence be- tween Lieutenant Slidell and Commodore Jones was such as to leave no hope that there could be any harmony of action between them, which might be attended with consequences unfavourable to the success of the expedition; and as the objections made against Lieutenant Wilkes, who had not yet returned from Europe, were such as to leave no doubt in my mind that he would consider it an act of injustice, under the circumstances of the case, to be or- dered in this service, I came to the conclusion that for the interest of the expedition it was better that neither of them should be ordered. I informed Commodore Jones that they would not be ordered, and requested him to name the officers he wished. After this, I made no further attempts to se- cure for this expedition the services of officers 290 APPENDIX. Exploring Expedition, in which these estimates were fully explained. By these reports it appears that the appro- priation of three hundred thousand dollars had been expended, and that the annual expense for the five vessels of the squadron, with pay and provisions for the scientific corps, would amount to $346,431, which, for three years, the proposed duration of the cruise, would amount to $1,039,293. Although the appropriation for the payment of the scientific corps had not been made, yet their appointment was urged on the ground that it was important to the gentlemen to be select- ed, to know it as long beforehand as possible, to enable them to arrange their business for an absence of three years : and on the 28th of December, 1836, the larger part of them were appointed, on liberal salaries, to commence when their services should be required; upon which condition, they accepted their appoint- ment. On the 30th of March last Lieutenant Tatt- nall returned from a cruise to the coast of Mexico, which he had made as commander of the Pioneer; and he reported so unfavourably of the sailing of this vessel, that it was deem- ed proper that her condition should be fully examined into, as well as that of the brig Con- APPENDIX. 291 sort and schooner Pilot, which, in point of sailing, had not been considered equal to the Pioneer. The necessary arrangements for such an ex- amination were made; and on the 10th of April Commodore Jones was informed that the Commissioners of the Navy, with the chief naval constructor and the naval architect at Norfolk, were ready to proceed to the perfor- mance of this duty; and he was requested to join them, which he did. On the 26th of that month, at his own sug- gestion, he was instructed to make an experi- mental cruise with the Relief, Pioneer, Consort and Pilot, for the purpose of making a full trial of their sailing qualities, and was directed to return to Norfolk in twenty days after sail- ing. On his return from this cruise, he report- ed favourably of the sailing of these vessels; but, in other respects, his report might be con- sidered as unfavourable, inasmuch as he re- commended that the barques and schooner should go into dry dock for the purpose of ex- amination, and such alterations as a board of officers appointed for that purpose should re- commend. This could not fail to add to the delay which had already taken place, as the ship of the line Delaware was then in dock, and could not be immediately removed. 292 APPENDIX. Lieutenant Tattnall, after this experimental cruise, still entertained the most unfavourable opinion of the sailing qualities of these vessels, and asked to be relieved from the command of the Pioneer. As soon as the Delaware could be removed, Commodore Warrington, on the 30th of May, was directed to prepare the Pioneer, Consort, and Pilot, for going into dock. On the 8th of June, a board of five officers (Commodores Chauncey, Morris, Warrington, Patterson, and Wadsworth,) was ordered to make an examin- ation of the condition of those vessels; which seemed the more necessary, inasmuch as Com- modore Jones had demanded another schooner to be added to his squadron; without which he could not consider the expedition complete or efficient. ; The board was instructed to inquire whether the squadron might not be reduced in number of vessels and men, with advantage to the country, and without prejudice to the success of the expedition. This inquiry was rendered proper in conse- quence of the great difficulty of procuring the necessary funds during the suspension of spe- cie payments, which had not been foreseen when the last appropriations were made, and be- cause it would be in accordance with the ori- APPENDIX. 293 ginal intentions of Congress in fitting out the expedition. It was thought that, should a part of the vessels be found unfit for this service, it would be better that the squadron should sail with a reduced force, than suffer the delay of preparing other vessels. On the 17th of June Commodore Jones reported that the requisite number of seamen had been recruited. On the 12th of July, the board reported that the occupation of the dock at Gosport, and the employment of some of the members of the board, prevented a meeting until the 30th June ; that the barques and schooner were put into dock and examined; and certain altera- tions recommended, which could soon be com- pleted, by which the vessels might be made to answer the purpose proposed sufficiently well to justify their employment. The board say that had they been called upon, before any preparations had been made, to state the number and character of the ves- sels which, in their opinion, would be best cal- culated to secure the attainment of the propos- ed objects, they certainly would not have re- commended those which have been prepared. They were of opinion that a smaller number of vessels would have answered the purposes; yet, from a consideration of the expense incurr- ed, the time spent in preparing the force, and 25* 294 APPENDIX. other circumstances, which they enumerate, and as the officer selected to command the ex- pedition was satisfied with the vessels, they came to the conclusion that no reduction could be made in their amount at this late period, without prejudice to the success of the expedi- tion. They, however, recommended a reduction of the number of officers and men to about five hundred, exclusive of the scientific corps. To this reduction Commodore Jones strenuously objected, and he was permitted to retain his full force of 603 officers and men. The alterations recommended in the vessels were made with all the despatch that the means at the disposal of Commodore Warrington would permit . But, before they could be com- pleted, Commodore Jones discovered that the cooking galleys which had been ordered to be put on board his vessels, by his direction, for burning anthracite coal, would not answer the purpose proposed; and on the 1st of August he requested that new galleys should be fur- nished, to be substituted for those found to be useless. This was a new cause of delay. Or- ders were immediately given for constructing the new galleys wanted. They were made without delay, at the navy yard at Washington, under the direction of Commodore Patterson, ! 296 APPENDIX. York were, that the stores might be completed, and such apparatus procured for heating the vessels as might be necessary for the health and comfort of the crews in high latitudes ; all which, it was believed, could be completed in a few days. Wishing to hasten the departure of the squa- dron, I instructed the gentlemen of the scienti- fic corps, to report to Commodore Jones with- out delay, although he had not informed me that the vessels were ready for their reception, .but I inferred this from the general order, and it was important that their books, instruments, and furniture should be arranged while the pre- parations for the vessels were advancing. Al- though the gentlemen of the scientific corps could not, with propriety, be instructed to re- port to the commander of the expedition before the vessels were in a situation to receive them, yet they were put upon pay from the 4th of July last, and were on duty in preparing books, instruments, and materials, necessary for their labours on the expedition. Fearing that there might be some difficulty as to accommodations for this corps, and the various articles they might think it necessary to carry with them, I requested Commodore Jones, if his convenience would permit, to meet a large portion of them assembled at Philadelphia, for the purpose of APPENDIX. 299 in the condition in which it had been left by Commodore Jones. It was proposed to Cap- tain Shubrick to take the command, but he ob- jected to the frigate as too large a vessel for this service, and to the brigs Pioneer and Con- sort, as altogether unfit for it; and not being satisfied with the number of vessels, or the or- ganization of the squadron, he declined the command. The great confidence placed in this officer seemed to require that the validity of his opinions should be fully examined. A board, consisting of Commodore Hull, Commodore Biddle, and Commander Aulick, was appointed by a letter of the 12th of De- cember, stating that doubts having been enter- tained both with regard to the fitness of some of the vessels of the exploring squadron for the service on which they were to be employed, and to the extent of force, number, and size of the vessels, the whole subject was referred to a board of experienced officers, in June last, to consider and report upon the same: that, after personal examination and careful investigation, the board reported, that if the matter had been submitted to them originally, they would not have recommended either the extent, size, or composition of the force of the vessels propos- ed to be employed; but that, taking into con- sideration the delay that would attend a change 302 APPENDIX. the command of the expedition was offered to Captain Kearney, who examined the condition of the squadron at New-York. He was not satisfied with the arrangements proposed, and declined the command. It was then offered to Captain Perry, who, from the situation of his private concerns, felt compelled to decline the command, which, un- der other circumstances, he would gladly have accepted. Captain Gregory has now been ordered to the command, and it is confidently hoped that the squadron may sail in a short time, upon the reduced scale recommended by the late board. Some weeks, however, will be required to en- able the new commander to re-organize the squadron, and to fit it for service. To send him off without affording him the opportunity of doing this, would be as unjust to him, as hazardous to the success of the expedition. As the vessels, with their crews, had remain- ed a long time unemployed in the harbour of New-York, it was deemed proper to send out a part of them (the two brigs and schooner) upon a short experimental cruise, charged with the duty of affording relief, under a late act of Con- gress, to vessels in distress approaching our coast, and which will not retard the sailing of the squadron. APPENDIX. 305 will be transmitted, as soon as the same can be prepared, to be annexed to this report. I regret that these copies have not been com- pleted; but, from their great extent, and the mass of business pressing upon the clerks of the Department, this has been impossible, without omitting to perform the daily and in- dispensable business of this office. The copy- ing will be urged with as much despatch as possible; extra clerks have been employed for the purpose; but some weeks must necessarily elapse before the whole can be completed. I have the honour to be, Very respectfully, Your obedient servant, MAHLON DICKERSON. To the PRESIDENT of the United States. 26* 312 APPENDIX. and he prepared his draughts accordingly. Mr. C. did not know who gave these instruc- tions, but he presumed they came from Com- modore Jones, as it was an order of the De- partment that his wishes should be consulted, and his suggestions adopted, in every thing pertaining to the construction, arrangement, ar- mament, and equipment of the vessels, as far as circumstances would permit. Mr. C. believ- ed that it was a matter of record that the two brigs and the schooner were planned agreeably to the suggestions, and built under the superin- tendence of Commodore Jones. At any rate, he had exhibited as strong an affection for them as though they were his own children. He had laboured in season and out of season, to convince the public that they were well adapted to the service in which they were to be employed. He had forced Lieutenant Tatnall to tender his resignation of the command of the Pioneer, in consequence of his having express- ed the opinion, formed by a cruise among the reefs and currents of the Gulf of Mexico, that she “steered badly when sailing over six knots," and was unable “to claw off a lee shore in a short head sea.” The sailing quali- ties of these bantlings of the commodore had been tested during the past winter. The two brigs had formed a part of our coast squadron. APPENDIX. 313 The Pioneer got ashore in the sound, and had a number of her men severely frost-bitten. The Consort returned to port, after à cruise of fif- teen days, with a loss of her main-yard, top- gallant-mast, and one man killed, who was thrown upon deck by her breaching-to against her helm. Lieutenant Glynn, a gallant officer, a good seaman, and a man of science, was in command of her, and in his report of the cruise to Commodore Ridgely he says: “Off the wind with any sea on, the Consort is dangerous, and should never be allowed to go over six knots; at seven knots she became unmanageable, and, I think, could not possibly be made to go eight knots while drawing more than twelve feet water: for her short and full water lines, particularly abaft, make so much wake, that from five knots and upwards the rudder plays in more or less dead water, and thus its influence is diminishing till it ceases to be the principal directing power. Her full of the body and low transom afford a fair hold for a sea coming up with her, while her want of length allows her to be swung round as upon a pivot. In scudding, therefore, long before she had attained a velocity sufficient to dimin- ish perceptibly the violence of the following sea, she would be breached-to, or brought by the lee. * 27 APPENDIX. 317 As a mere matter of record to talent and character, the following inserted certificate will show, as evidence at an early date, the opinion of President Jefferson (unsolicited) relative to the ability of the author as a commander; but he being at the time bound by engagements to valuable friends in a command in the Pacific and China trade, whose support and means had enabled him already to have ob- tained the honour of important discoveries; his engage. ment, they being unwilling to grant his release, thus pre- vented him from moving, agreeably to his first wish, by accepting the honourable offer tendered, and thereby serv- ing the remainder of his life in our gallant American navy CERTIFICATE. New-York, January 19th, 1837. This certifies that I was personally known to Mr. George Warner, on his return from Wash- ington, having brought from President Jeffer- son an invitation and tender to Captain Edmund Fanning to the command of either of the new United States frigates, the New-York or Adams, as an inducement for him to enter into the naval service of government; his commis- sion to take date the day the frigate was launch- ed. This was, as my memory serves, between the years 1801 and 1803. W. E. NEXSEN. Attest, JOHN R. BLEECKER. 2 7* 318 APPENDIX. The annexed letters to the honourable Chairman of the Naval Committee of the House of Representatives of the American Congress assembled, will show the author's anxious regret at the unfortunate delay, and non-sailing of the South Sea National Exploring Expedition, in aiding the authorization of which by Congress he had acted so con- spicuous a part. And herewith the public and general reader have the author's justification, which was so sacred- ly due to his profession and character, touching this ex- ploring subject, after the part he had taken in procuring its authorization. New-York, 21st April, 1838. Dear Sir, In the utmost respect and deference to all others, and their opinions, I cannot but now regret, extremely regret, that my experienced knowledge relating to such a Discovery and Exploring Expedition, in the construction of the proper vessels, its preparations and outfits, so early tendered to President Jackson, had not been accepted and used. In the greatest respectful deference, I can- not but presume it would have enabled the ex- pedition to have had the most efficient vessels, and been carried brilliantly into effect, to the great credit and benefit of the nation; as also nobly and shiningly to the American character, and that to an expense (I think) not exceed- įng half a million of dollars; but, alas ! fate APPENDIX. 319 had not so decreed to the favour of our much beloved country, I am, very respectfully, Your obedient servant, E. FANNING, To the Hon. S. INGAAM, M. C., Chairman of the Naval Com- mittee, H. R., United States' Congress, Washington city. New York, April 23d, 1838. Dear Sir, I have respectfully to observe that it has oc- curred to my mind, since mine of 21st inst., the propriety of an explanation, to prevent mis- construction, which I present herewith. That after the great sacrifice of money and time made by me in the proceedings in aid to procure the authorization of a National Discov- ery and Exploring Expedition to the South Seas, &c., it does not appear that the omission of calling my experienced knowledge into re- quisition, in the construction of the most pro- per vessels, preparations in outfits, &c., was with our late venerable President, or the hon- ourable Secretary of the Navy. Why? Be- cause, in the correspondence between the latter and Commodore Jones, the Secretary, in his 320 APPENDIX. letter of date Navy Department, September 12th, 1836, has the following passage, viz. “The person with whom you intimate I have corresponded, I presume, is Captain Ed- mund Fanning of New-York. Captain Fan- ning long since planned a South Sea Exploring Expedition, and has been urging it upon Con- gress ever since the administration of Mr. Madison. So far as there is a merit in suggest- ing and urging this measure, it is due to Cap- tain Fanning. He is intimately acquainted with many regions which it is intended to ex- plore; and it is very desirable to have the benefit of his knowledge and experience, both in fitting out and conducting the expedition.” Thus it will appear, that it was the desire of the President and Secretary that the humble aid of my practical knowledge in experience should be used to the enterprize, &c. Having the honour to be, Very respectfully, Your obedient servant, EDMUND FANNING. Hon. S. INGHAM, M. C., Chair- man Naval Committee, H. R. Washington city. van 1 Doc. No. 57. 3 and extraordinaries excepted,) and begs, respectfully, to add, in his decided belief, that its result, by research and discovery, will greatly benefit, support, and advance the commerce, &c. of the nation. This proposal and project may be thought presuming, yet, your meinorialist cannot but feel sure and confident, by ex- perience, that, under his humble direction, system of disci- pline and management, its result will not only be meritori- ous, but that it will be so fortunate as to enable him to promptly to repay the principal and interest of the loan of $150,000 into the United States Treasury, as also to satisfactorily and amply reward those that serve in the expedition, by thus being in his own means, aided by trade with the natives; which trading can be effected in their route without much loss of time. The expedition should consist of two fast sailing and ex- pert-working ships, built on the Eckford plan and model that superior invented mode of construction which would be firstrate, safe, and comfortable sea-boats, and are the best for this peculiar service. The secret of this manner of build, your memorialist only, it is believed, possesses, with the trial in proof of its advantages, which will be found to be of importance highly preferable, in several points, during their performance in this exploring service, as also to have vastly the advantage in their safety, over the vessels of the Eckford plan of build, being of a ducklike buoyancy, are, therefore, dry seaboats, and thereby far better adapted to guard against that scourge of seamen, that painful, kill-spirit and destroying disease, the sea scurvy, particularly while navigating in tor- rid or frozen and frosty regions, in icy island sea, as well as more safe in oceans strewed with coral reefs, and thereby tending to the confidence and preservation of all on board. Such two ships would likewise be able to receive on board full three years' sufficient supply of provisions for all com- petent and needed persons embarked in them, (save the occa- sional refreshments that would conveniently be obtained on their route,) with, also, their Indian trade, their armament with every required article necessary in the performance of their voyage, to keep their ships in good condition, and to keep their crews in health and in good heart, to enable them well to perform their duty at all times during such arduous service while navigating in all seas and climes. Xudurl build.- Oike, te Doc. No. 57. Your memorialist would respectfully, in all deference, here state that he has the honor to hold a commission,* of date 17th of March, 1812, granted to him by President Madison, in the command of the Volunteer, the leading one of two ships composing an expedition on a like (as this contem- plated) exploring and discovery voyage, in the view to be- nefit commerce, the fisheries, natural science, &c.; those ships were prepared and mainly ready for sea, and your me- morialist had had his last consultation with President Madi- son, and left Washington for this city, (New York,) to pre- pare for sailing, when he was soon followed by the declara- tion of war by Congress against Great Britain, which caused a suspension, and, finally, abandonment of the expedition. The capital which will be required for, and to carry through into a final effect, the present proposed expedition will be, as is contemplated by estimate, $250,000. If Congress should deem it expedient, and be pleased to aid their memorialist with the proposed loan of three-fifths, his means can supply the remaining two, which amount will be ample means to build and fit out those ships, and such as will give the great- est promise and surest warrant of success, in well perform- ing and accomplishing the expedition. This loan, with the similar patronage that was given by Presidents Madison and Jackson, is all your memorialist would respectfully require of Government, in the aid and support to the successful ac- complishment of said expedition; which, in his firm belief, would result to the honor of the American character, as well as greatly beneficial to the nation in its commerce, fisheries, navigation, &c. Therefore, in a respectful remark, if Con- gress, in the aid to the means of your memorialist, should be pleased to pass an Act granting, appropriating, and authoriz- ing the honorable Secretary of the Treasury, on the passage of said Act, (as time is full short to build the ships and fit out the expedition in time to sail this season,) to loan to your memorialist, on his personal bond, in the aid of said expedi- tion, to be performed in a view to the benefit and support of commerce, &c., the sum of $150,000, on his giving his bond, (conditioned as aforesaid,) to be repaid, with six per cent. in- * A correct copy of which accompanies the memorial. 6 Doc. No. 57. rienced nautical talented Volunteers, pupils of his, he then would have attached to him, several of which are now in command, and as officers on board the first class of the line of packet and whale ships employed in the merchants' ma- rine, who would be well able to conduct the expedition through, as they would have the proper vessels, and would also, by then, possess your memorialist's intentions of pro- ceedings, his views in the route, &c. And the officer to whoin should fall the command, would likewise be bound to report progress, &c., from time to time, as well as to render a true and full account of all expenditures, discoveries, &c., to the honorable Secretary of the Treasury at the close of the enterprise. And your memorialist being thus provided with those superior vessels, built on the Eckford plan, with a mass of experienced knowledge relative to the subject, all which must give the surest promise of a satisfactory, credita- ble, beneficial, and honorable success; to obtain which, your memorialist not only feels willing, but anxious to put in re- quisition his means and personal services; all thus tendered in the risk, in patriotic feelings, with the view, and to en- deavor to accomplish and bring to the aid and benefit of our beloved country all this national and valuable advantage by such an expedition before he is called from this life. A former commercial trade, which has become all but ob- solete, by the old places where those products were formerly procured, having become exhausted, your memorialist feels certain, would, by this expedition, be revived again, viz.: the former valuable trade from the South seas of furs, sandal- wood, beach-la-mer, pearls, turtle-shell, &c., to China; in the discovery by this exploration and research by this expedi- tion, of new sources or places where those products could again be procured in such abundance as to lucratively sup- port the employment of a number of vessels annually in it; which amount of such trade would prevent so much specie being exported from the United States to China; which trade your memorialst was the humble instrument, as pioneer, in opening the way to it, by exploration and discovery, in and by an adventure of trial, by collecting and taking a first cargo from the South seas to China, and feels confident if, at this time, proper research by exploration and examination is made, that new sources and places for the procuring again 8 Doc. No. 57. 1 tifics, seamen, &c., myself would then, also, in such result, be kept harmless as to any loss, and the nation would have the benefit of our discoveries, &c., in the aid to commerce, whale, seal, and other fisheries, navigation, science, &c., as all which would be punctually reported to the honorable Secretary of the Treasury. Again: I have in those icy regions, within the term of three months, with only my ship's crew, taken and received on board my ship, well cured in salt, 57,000 of those rich fur seal skins, (equal in fineness of fur to those of the South Shetlands,) and which would, at the present time, readily bring in our market $15 per skin. Further: I have, in a lower latitude, and in a milder climate, with only my ship's crew, taken in the term of five weeks 25,000 of those valu- able fur seals; and cannot but feel confident but that such an exploring expedition as proposed would discover new and multitudinous resorts of those amphibious animals, as well as new whale-ground resorts of those valuable monsters of the deep, (the whales,) as likewise new places for extensive fishery collections of the beach-la-mer, &c. Further again : In traffic with the natives for sandal-wood, furs, beach-la-mer, turtle shell, &c., &c., &c., we have ob- tained at new places for the procuring of those products. I herein will mention an instance, as an average in evidence to this very lucrative commercial trade, viz. : have obtained sandal-wood in barter with the natives at a rate of not more than 1 cent the pound, which I have then sold the same in China at 34 cents per pound. This article is now in that market, I believe, at 9, and 16 cents per pound, according to its chop, (quality,) and there is no doubt but that those pro- ducts may be obtained at new-discovered places at the former rates. And all these products (if at or on uninhabited lands, its shores, reefs, and banks) there to be had, can be procured by the ship's crew, and in a reasonable time, viz. : have had, with only the labor of the ship's crew, a cargo of beach-la- mer, mother-of-pearl, turtle-shell, sharks' tails and fins, &c., &c., procured, well cured on board ship, within the term of 90 days, at and from the shores, reefs, and banks of unin- habited lands; (at the uninhabited places in those seas, along the coust and shores, the shark will be met with in large shoals;) and such a cargo will be found adequate on its ex- Doc. No. 57. 11 with a smaller one to suit the keel, when her spur shore was knocked away, and she then slid beautifully down into her element, like a boy down hill on his sled. When she was taken alongside the ship, her mast that was made from the ship's spare mainyard was stepped; rigging set up. She was then hove down by the ship, keel out, and sheathed with smooth-plained cedar boat boards, and those painted over with a good coat of green verdigris paint, when she was bal- lasted, and put on trial under sails, and performed beyond our most sanguine expectations, as above. Is not this a striking instance in the American character of Yankee in- vention and perseverance in enterprise ? On detailing and submitting this, our casual new-invented manner of build, to Mr. Henry Eckford, his great mechanical talent improved and added to, or on, this casual, forced, minute invention, so as, in the construction of a ship, to clamp (as we call it) her deck frames, and chain-brace, her body-frame, by which this manner of build would enable her to bear at least twenty times the greater pressure against out- side, inward, than could a ship of the ordinary manner of con- struction; and then not cause her to spring a leak, and also not subject or likely to bilge if cast by the ice on shore, and at the same time as well and effectually secured from straining apart in her waterway seams, &c.; thereby, of course, far more safe in navigating among ice, or in a sea strewn with coral reefs, than any ship of the usual build can be. Therefore, a ship or vessel built thus, in what we call the Eckford manner and plan of build; she by this construction being likewise not overburdened with extra timber or heavy materials; she is therefore as ducklike, buoyant, as any vessel can be, and, of course, as dry and good a sea-boat, and if rightly modelled, a fast-sailing, expert-working, and comfortable ship. In illustration; it is well understood that in the usual man- ner of ship-building, the main point in view is to have her well hooked and kneed, so that she will not complain in a rough sea and heavy gale, and strain apart, and thereby open her waterway seams, &c., and thus spring a leak and damage her cargo, &c. Now, for a ship which is intended to navigate in an icy sea, it is of a much greater point of importance that she be secured and supported against being crushed inward by the outer pressure by the nips, jams, &c. of the ice. The 12 Doc. No. 57. Eckford manner of building secures this, and likewise the point of spreading apart. Again: a ship of the usual construction, when the ice presses weightily on her sides, it will cause her beams to spring at the saw cuts, where the fore and aft pieces are let in by the framing of her decks; the beams thus giving away, and the great weight pressing on her outer upper sides in- ward, which causes her seams from wales to keel, to open, lets, or spews out the oakum, breaks in her frames, and causes her to spring badly aleak, and perhaps fatally; or, on being by the ice forced on shore, she by a moderate pressure bilges, and is wrecked, leaving her crew in this appalling situation, perhaps to perish. Now, the Eckford plan and manner of build having no saw cuts for fore and aft pieces, but being, (as we term it) clamp-framed in her decks, and chain-braced in her frame, by which she is prevented from being crushed inward by an outward pressure so as to cause her springing aleak, or, if forced on shore, she being not likely to bilge or spring aleak, therefore, may be safely got afloat again, and so, if run on a coral reef, not bilging. She may, in many in- stances, be got readily afloat again; when a ship constructed in the usual manner of build would bilge, be wrecked and lost. It will readily be conceived, that any vessel being over- burdened in her build with timber or other weighty materials, it would greatly tend to kill her ducklike buoyancy of life as a good and dry sea-boat in a gale; thus making her raft like wet, and thereby very prejudicial as to the health of her crew, and in a rough and icy sea very uncomfortable, as well as against the health of those on board; and the persons thus situated would, by being constantly wet, soon be attacked by that dainpy and fatal disease, the sea scurvy; when there would be no other alternative but an immediate retreat, if possible, to port, to save the lives of those that should be fa- vored to survive until the ship arrived at it. This is the grand bar to successful navigation in those rough and icy seas and regions, which, by the invented plan of the Eckford build, would be mainly avoided, as such built vessels would be dry, and far more safely and comfortably guarded from this kill-spirit disease, and also from being crushed by ice, &c. The writer of these lines has experienced the weather so 18 Doc. No. 57. The above, in round numbers, excluding the fractions of cents, shows the result of this experimental and enterprising voyage at this early day of American voyaging, and in a ship of such small tonnage, around the world, manned en- tirely by young Americans. Is not this a striking evidence, in the fact of daring adventure, perseverance, &c., in favor and credit to the American character for commendable en- terprise ? The Betsey was armed with ten carriage-guns, small arms, &c., and sailed from the United States on her voyage with a crew consisting of thirty, including the cap- tain, officers, artificers, seamen, and boys, all young Ameri- cans, of the true yankee spirit of research and discovery, there being not any person on board over 28 years of age, returing from off her voyage without the loss of a single in- dividual; all arriving home to their country and friends, having made important discoveries, and opened the way to a new source of trade to their fellow-citizens. NEW YORK, January 13, 1840. DEAR SIR: Enclosed I have the honor to forward a me- morial to Congress, which I desire you will have the good- ness to present to the honorable the House of Representa- tives, and to cause the same, with its accompanying copy of commission and other papers, to be referred to the honorable Committee on Commerce. As this is a rare application, for the general good of the nation, perhaps the House would consent to a suspension of rules to enable an immediate pre- sentation to a favorable effect. The only acquaintance I have with the honorable Chairman of this Committee, is a hasty introduction by my son-in-law, James W. Bleecker, at a watering stop of the Saratoga cars last summer. No doubt Mr. Curtis will recollect it. As you are well acquainted with my experienced know- ledge, ability, &c., relative to the carrying ably into effect the proposed project in memorial, you can give to the honorable Committee every information required to a favorable report ; and your particular attention to the subject of so laudable an enterprise, will entitle you to a large share in the honor Doc. No. 57. 19 and credit due the expedition, which, if it goes out, I feel confident will be brilliantly successful, and end very cre- ditably to the nautical American character. We should cer- tainly discover new whaling grounds, and new resorts of those valuable fur seals, and as surely revive again that very lucrative sandal-wood, beach-la-mer, &c., trade from the South seas to China or Manilla. I would respectfully remark; it seems to me that politics can have nothing to do with such a patriotic project for the general good of the nation, but that it should sail entirely on the vessel of patriotism. With much respect, I am, dear sir, yours, &c., EDMUND FANNING. Hon. Thomas W. WILLIAMS, M. C., Washington City. P. S. In the route* the national exploring squadron has taken, it does not appear to promise the best, in the disco- very of new supports of commercial trade, or new grounds to the support of the whale and seal fisheries. I send a gazette having a statement of my first exploring voyage to the South seas and China. E. F. * By steering along the coasts of Chili and Peru. APPENDIX. Note.—The following is appended to this exploring sub- ject by the memorialist, viz. : Copy of a letter to the Honorable Felix Grundy, enclo- sing the memorial to the Honorable the United States Senate, which was by him promptly presented to that Honorable Body, and was referred to its Conimittee on Commerce. New York, January 13, 1840. DEAR SIR, Herewith I have the honor to enclose a memorial to Con- gress, to which I respectfully beg of your kindness to present to the Honorable the United States Senate, and to cause the same with the copy of commission and other papers, to be referred to the Honorable Committee on Commerce. Judge Grundy (as mentioned in the memorial) will no doubt recollect the time of my final consultation with Presi- dent Madison, in being then accompanied with our gone friend, Doctor Samuel L. Mitchel, then a United States Se- nator, at which time I think Senator Grundy was then a member in the House. I send the like memorial to the Honorable Thomas W. Williams, to be presented to the House of Representatives ; although of opposite politics, he is well acquainted with my extensive knowledge and experience relative to this South Sea exploring subject, and thereby can give all required in- formation to the Honorable Committees. And politics, it seems to me, should have nothing to do in such a laudable project, for the general good of the nation. With sentiments of esteem, I am, dear sir, very respectfully, Your obedient servant, EDMUND FANNING. Hon. FELIX GRUNDY, United States Senator, Washington City. 22 APPENDIX. into effect, and which is very likely to fall into oblivion, if this proposed plan of exploration, &c., is not sent out and performed, viz.: Firstly: The beach-la-mer, &c., fishery, and sandal- wood, &c., trade, from South Seas to China, never will or can be revived and established by the navy. Secondly: The Eckford invented plan of mode of con- struction of ships, that promise such great safety and advan- tage in our whale fishery—when it shall become necessary in the view of sure success, for the whaling and sealing ves- sels to (which certainly must become the case in a few years) follow those giants of the deep among the ice in the south, as has heretofore been the case in the northern whale fish- ery--will also be lost to the nation, if those Eckford invented mode of constructed ships, are not put on trial by this pro- posed exploring expedition, to show and establish their su- perior advantage in safety, &c.; which also never will or can be established and proved as to their great preference in employ, over those ships of the usual build or construction, by the navy, or by only any private means, as it can be well effected only, by this proposed united plan of trial in its per- formance, and by persons experienced in the whale and seal business. Respectfully submitted. E. FANNING. N. B. Is not the damage the Peacock received by the ice off the coast of the new discovered continent, and her in- stant forced retreat, a decided case to the point in favor of the Eckford invented build for navigating in an icy sea. Apropos.-The memorialist has information from the com- mand of the French South Sea Exploring Expedition, that the whales were exceedingly numerous in the bays of the coast of the southern continent. E. F. 1 ? 22 into effect this prop performer Firstl wood, &c can be rei Second struction tage in ou in the vic sels to (w follow ih as has he ery–will mode of posed exi perior ad can be es employ, by the na effected o formance business. Respect N. B. off the co stant force the Eckfo Apropo mand of the whalel coast of th