Yedo and PekingRobert Fortune








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VISITS
TO THK
CAPITALS OF JAPAN AND CHINA.
:


BY THE SAME AUTHOR.
TWO VISITS TO THE TEA COUNTRIES OF CHINA
AND THE BRITISH TEA PLANTATIONS IN THE HIMALAYA. With a
Narrative of Adventures, and a full Description of the Culture of the Tea Plant.
Tlurd Edition. Woodcuts. 2 vols. Post 8vo. 18f.
n.
A EESIDENCE AMONG THE CHINESE: Inland, on
THE COAST, AND AT SEA: a Narrative of Scenes and Adventures during a Third
Visit to China, 1853-56. With Notices of Works of Art, the Culture of Silk, Sks
Illustrations. 8vo. 15*.
Alto lately published,
PICTURES OF THE CHINESE, DRAWN BY A
NATIVE ARTIST, and described by A FOREIGN RESIDENT. With 34 Engravings.
Crown 8vo. 9».








YE DO AND PEKING.
A NAKRATIVE
A JOURNEY TO THE CAPITALS
JAPAN AND CHINA.
WITH NOTICES OF
THE NATURAL PRODUCTIONS, AGRICULTURE, HORTICULTURE, AND TRADE OF
THOSE COUNTRIE8, AND OTHER THINGS MET WITH BY THE WAY.
By ROBERT - FORTUNE,
HONORARY MEMBER OP THE AGBI-HOBT. SOCIETY OP INDIA.
WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1863.
Tfie right of Translation is reserved.


LONDON: PRINTED BV W. CLOWES AND SONS, ST AH FO HO WTRKET,
AND CIIABINQ GROSS.


PREFACE.
The Empire of Japan has been all but closed to
the inhabitants of other nations for more than two
hundred years. Except a few Dutch and Chinese,
who were kept almost like prisoners at Nagasaki,
no foreigners have been allowed to reside or
trade in the country since about the year 1636.
A great and unexpected change has now taken
place; Japan has not only opened some of her
ports to foreign trade, but has also sent her
Ambassadors to visit many of the principal Courts
of Europe and America.
The news of the success which attended the
English and French forces in the earlier part of
the late war with China was quickly wafted across
the "Eastern Sea" to Yedo, and, doubtless, had
no little effect in inducing the Tycoon and his
Ministers (in an evil hour for them) to open
their country to foreign intercourse. It is to be
hoped that this re-entry into the great family of
nations will not bring on those dissensions and
wars which marked the period between 1560 and


vi
PREFACE.
1636, when the experiment was last tried; for
it is well known that, ever since foreigners were
expelled from Japan, " the land has had peace."
This change of policy on the part of the
Japanese Government gave me an opportunity
which I had long desired of visiting the country.
I was well aware that Japan was remarkable for
the beauty of its scenery, and that it was rich
in many species of trees, and other vegetable
productions of an ornamental and useful kind,
unknown in Europe. With the view of making
collections of these and other objects of natural
history and works of art, I took my departure
for the "far East" in the summer of 1860, and
reached Japan in the month of October of that
year.
The story of my wanderings is now presented
to the reader, with the hope that it may add
somewhat to the knowledge already acquired
concerning this strange people and their very
beautiful land. I have confined my descriptions
in a great measure to what came under my own
observation. The manners and customs of the
people are painted as they appeared to me in
their everyday life. The natural productions of
the country, whether of commercial importance
to other nations, or "pleasant to the eye, and
good for food," I have very fully described; and


PREFACE.
vii
I have endeavoured to show that its export trade
is capable of being greatly increased, particularly
in those staple articles of tea and silk, which have
now become almost necessaries of life amongst
ourselves.
The Agriculture of the country was carefully
examined; and, as it is in many respects some-
what remarkable, a full description of it has been
given in the following pages. I have also ven-
tured to make a few observations on our political
relations with this extraordinary people, which
may be of some interest at the present time.
Most of the illustrations were kindly sketched
for me by Dr. Dickson of China. I am also
indebted to my fellow-passenger, Dr. Barton, for
some views in the Inland Sea, and for that of
Castle Island, Cape Grotto.
When I had finished my work in Japan, the
Chinese war had been brought to a successful
termination, and I was enabled to visit the new
ports of Chefoo and Tien-tsin, on the Gulf of
Pe-chele, and also the capital city of Peking
itself, and the mountains which lie beyond it.
In the concluding chapters of the work I have
sought to give a faithful description of this part
of my travels over a country which, until the
last war, was almost as little known to Europeans
as Japan itself. Mr. Wyndham, of H.M. Legation


viii
PREFACE.
in Peking, furnished me with the sketch of the
curious " White-barked Pine" of that country.
Having thus given an outline of what may be
expected in this narrative of my journey to the
capitals, of Zipangu and Cathay, I have only to
solicit the kindness and indulgence of my readers,
trusting that they will overlook the many faults
of my imperfect performance.
The Author.
London, February, 1863. •


CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
First view of Japan — Curious islands — Papenberg — Massacre of
Christians — Visit from the officials — Harbour of Nagasaki —
Deshna of old — Desima of the present day — Japanese factory —
Town of Nagasaki — Tea-houses — Salamanders — Buddhist
temples — Large camphor-trees — Tombs — Mimic processions —
Dr. Siebold's residence — Excursions — Epunga — Natural pro-
ductions — Scenery — Trade of Nagasaki — Its capabilities as a
Sanatorium Page 1
CHAPTER IL
We leave Nagasaki — Van Dieman's Strait — Gale of wind — Vries's
Island — View of Pusi-yama — Bay of Yedo — Yokuhama — Its
value as a port for trade — Foreign houses — Native town —
Shops — Bronzes, ivory carvings, and curiosities — Lacquer ware —
Porcelain — Rock-crystal balls — Toys — Books and maps — Mena-
gerie — The Gan-ke-ro — Surrounding country — Its geological
formation 24
CHAPTER in.
Town of Kanagawa —The Imperial highway — Travellers upon it—
Princes — Pack-horses — Mendicant priests —Blind men — Beggars,
&c — Visit to the temple of Bokengee — The umbrella pine-tree —
Sin too temples — Scenery — Thatched roofs — Valuable elm —
The farmer and his chrysanthemums—Tomi — His one fault—
Temple of To-rin-gee — Scenery by the way — Thujopsis dolabrata
— Farm-houses — Tea-plant — Fruit-trees — Yedo vine — Veget-
ables— Trees and shrubs of the district — The male aucnba —
Geological features 40


X
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
Journey from Kanagawa to Yedo — Native body-guard — The Tokaido
— Civility of the people — Beggars by the wayside — Tea-houses —
Kawasaky — River Loga — " Mansion of Plum-trees " — The ladies'
platform — Hostess and waiting-maids — Japanese and Chinese
ladies compared — Tea-gardens — Sinagawa — English Legation —
Hospitality of Mr. Alcock — Large cemetery — Garden and trees —
The Yakoneens Page 63
CHAPTER V.
The city of Yedo — Hill of the god Atango — Magnificent view of the
city from its summit — "Official quarter" — Broad streets—Castles
of the feudal princes — The inner circle — Moats and massive walls
— Clumps of trees — No embrasure or guns visible — Use of the
moats and ramparts — Murder of the Regent or Gotiro—Pate of the
murderers—The Harikari — Castle of the Emperor — Kaanpfer's
description — "Belle Vue" — Population of Yedo — Size of the
city 77
CHAPTER VI.
The country round Yedo—Hill and valley — Trees — Autumnal fo-
liage — Views of Pusi-yama — Cottages and farm-houses — Flowers
and vegetables—Signs of high civilization — Public baths—Beau-
tiful lanes and hedges — Avenues and groves — Civility of the
peoplo — Dogs and their prejudices — Street dogs — Lapdogs —
Fire at the British Legation — Mode of giving alarm — Organization
of Fire-brigado — Wretched engines — Presents from foreign govern-
ments— More suitable ones pointed out 91
CHAPTER VII.
A journey in search of new plants — Japanese College — Residence
of Prince Kanga — Dang-o-zaka — Its tea-gardens, fish-ponds,
and floral ladies — Nursery-gardens — Country people — Another
excursion — Soldiers — Arrive at Su-mae-yah — Country covered
with gardens — New plants — Mode of dwarfing — Variegated
plants — Ogee, the Richmond of Yedo — Its tea-house — The Ty-
coon's hunting-ground — Fine views — Agricultural productions —
A drunken man — Intemperance of the people generally .. 103


CONTENTS.
xi
CHAPTEE VIII.
Residence of the Abbd Girard — Singing-birds — Commercial quarter
of Yedo — Shops — Paper, and the uses to which it is applied —
Articles of food — Monkeys eaten — Fire-proof buildings — Nipon
Bas — Ah-sax-saw — Its bazaars, temples, and tea-gardens — Fine
chrysanthemums — Tea-plant — The Yedo river — The city oppo-
site Yedo — Temple of Ecc-ying — Its origin — Crowds of people —
Curious scene in the temple — Earthquakes — Their frequency —
How they are dreaded by the natives — Straw shoes of men and
horses Page 120
CHAPTER IX.
Leave Yedo — Mendicant nuns — Place of execution—Its appearance
in the days of Kwmpfer — Visit to a famous temple — Field crops
by the way — Begging priests — Pear-trees—Holy water — Temple
of Tetstze — Its priests and devotees — Inn of " Ten Thousand Cen-
turies " — Kind reception — Waiting-maids and refreshments —
Scenes on the highway — Relieved from my yakoneen guard —
New plants added to my collections — Names of the most valuable
— Ward's cases, their value — Plants shipped for China — Devout
wishes for their prosperous voyage 136
CHAPTEE X.
Adieu to Yokuhama — Views of Mount Fusi — The Kino Channel and
Inland Sea, — Presents for the Queen — The port of Hiogo and town
of Osaca — Important marts for trade — Good anchorage — Crowds
of boats — Islands — Charming scenery — Daimios' castles — Towns
and villages — Gorgeous sunset — Village of Ino-sima — Terraced
land—"The pilot's home" — River-like sea—Scenes on shore —
Clean and comfortable houses— Fortress of Meara-sama—Visit of
officials — Their manners and customs — Gale of wind — Extra-
ordinary harbour — Southern Channel — Ship ashore — Two Jonahs
on board — Nagasaki in winter — Arrival at Shanghae — Plants
shipped for England 140


xii
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XI.
Return to Japan — Kite-flying at Nagasaki — Spring flowers — Field
crops — Gale of wind in Van Dieman's Strait — Arrive at Yoku-
hama — Insect and shell collecting — Reported difficulty in getting
assistance from the natives — How to manage Orientals — Rare
beetle — Dr. Adams's account of its capture — Curious mode of
catching fish — Visit Kanagawa — Agriculture in spring—Paddy
cultivation — Mode of manuring the land — Winter crops nearly
ripe — Trees and flowers — " The Queen of the Primroses *
Page 171
CHAPTER XII.
Invitation from the American Minister to visit Yedo — Inland road —
Nanka-nobu tea-garden — Extraordinary Glycine — Pleasant lanes
and hedges — Civility of the people — Arrive at the American
Legation — Guard and spies — Large tree — Unpleasant diplomatic
correspondence — Nursery gardens in the country visited — Summer
flowers and new plants — Return to Yedo—A ride in the country
— Mr. Heuskin's tomb — " Temple of Twelve Altars " — Poets'
Avenue — How a drunken Japanese makes himself sober — Shoeing
horses — Departure from Yedo — General remarks on the city and
suburbs 187
CHAPTER XIII.
Return to Kanagawa—Moxa and acupuncture — Mode of performing
these operations — Their supposed value — Prospects of better
medical and surgical knowledge in Japan — Roadside altar —
Ladies at their prayers — The conclusion of the ceremony — Field
crops and spring flowers at the end of May — Commencement of
rains — Beautiful rainbow — A violent earthquake — Burning
rape-stalks for manure — An English strawberry found — New
plants discovered — Vegetables and fruit in the markets — Entomo-
logical notices — Land shells — A Buddhist congregation — Their
mode of worship — Amusing visit from the congregation — An
interval in the service — Its conclusion 203
CHAPTER XIV.
Journey into the country — Fine views by the way — Town of Kana-
sawa — Our inn — Visit to a temple — The visitors' book — Crowds


CONTENTS.
xiii
in front of the inn — Their manners and customs — Japanese bed-
rooms — Natural productions — Uncultivated land — Remarks on
the extent of population in Japan — Fine views — Kamakura the
ancient capital — An insane woman — Her extraordinary conduct
— Our inn at Kamakura — Large bronze image — Its interior —
Crowds and their behaviour — A tiffin and a siesta — Visit to the
temples of Kamakura—The sacred stone—Yuritomo's tomb — A
page from Japanese history — Return to Kanagawa .. Page 221
CHAPTER XV.
Assassinations — Supposed causes — The innocent suffer for the guilty
— Japanese desire for revenge — Midnight attack on H. B. M.
Legation — The scene next morning — Supposed reasons for the
attack — Document found on a prisoner — Its translation —
Opinions of Japanese ministers — True reasons for the attack —
Instigators known — Weakness of government — Causes of its
weakness — Its sincerity — The difficulties it has to encounter —
Murder of Mr. Richardson — News of a revolution in Yedo .. 241
CHAPTER XVI.
Climate of Japan — Dr. Hepburn's tables — Hottest and coldest months
— Monsoons — Gales of wind — The rainy season — Earthquakes
— Agriculture — Rank of the farmer — Rocks and soil — Cultiva-
tion of winter crops — Seed-time and harvest — Curious mode of
harvesting — Summer crops on dry land — Mode of planting —
Manures — Crops requiring irrigation — Cultivation of rice —
Other crops — Animals few in number— Waste lands— Crops and
seasons 264
CHAPTER XVII.
Other productions of Japan — Silk, tea, &c. — Silk country — Value
of silk — Tea districts — Curious statements on tea cultivation —
Value of exports from Kanagawa in 1860-61 — Means of increasing
the supplies of silk and tea — Prospects on the opening of the new
ports — Japanese objections to the opening — The Tycoon's letter to
the Queen — Ministers' letter to Mr. Alcock — Their recommenda-
tions considered — Danger of opening Yedo at present — Remarks
on the other porta ^ Trade probably overrated — Japanese mer-


xiv
CONTENTS.
chants compared with Chinese — Prejudices against traders in
Japan — Foreign officials and these prejudices — War with Japan
not improbable Page 281
CHAPTER XVIII.
Narrative resumed — Exciting times — Supposed attacks on M. de Wit
and others — 'Visit from the Governor of Kanagawa— Object of his
visit — He inspects my collections — A question regarding my
safety — A cautious and consolatory reply — Fences repaired and
spiked — Guards stationed round the foreign dwellings — My re-
searches in Japan come to an end — Plants put into Ward's cases —
Curiosity of the natives — Kindness of Captain Vyse — Adieu to
Japan — Arrival in China 297
CHAPTER XIX.
Leave Shanghae for Peking — Port of Chefoo — Agricultural and
natural products — The Pei-ho river — Arrival at Tien-tsin — Salt-
mounds — Suburbs — Mean buildings — Active trade — Noisy
coolies — Shops — Large warehouses —Hawkers — Gambling pro-
pensities of the people — The city — Ruinous ramparts — Filthy
streets—Surrounding country—Salt plain—Gardens and nurseries
— Winter houses for plants — Fruit-trees cultivated in pots —
Fruit ice-houses—Vineyards — San-ko-lin-tsin's Folly — Winter in
Tien-tsin 305
CHAPTER XX.
The people of Tien-tsin — Visit to a gentleman's house— Reception—
Street beggars — Begging musicians — Civil hospital established
by the English — Dr. Lamprey's report — Chinese poorhouse —
Fat beggars — Climate and temperature — Dust-storms — Remark-
able size of natural productions — Large men and horses — Shantung
fowls — Gigantic millet, oily grain, and egg-apples — Jute —
Vegetables in cultivation — Imperial granaries — Use of millet and
jute stems — Foreign trade — New settlement for foreign merchants
— The future of Tien-tsin as a centre of trade 326


CONTENTS.
xv
CHAPTER XXI.
Leave Tien-tein for Peking — My passport — Mode of travelling—
Carts and wretched roads — Hotel at Tsai-tsoun — Towns of
Hoose-woo, Nan-ping, and Mateo — Hotel at Chan-chow-wan —
Poor accommodation — Moderate charges — Appearance of the
country — Crops and cultivation — Mountains in the distance —
Walls and ramparts of Peking — Foreign embassies — English
Legation — Medical missions — Chinese observatory — Views from
it—Tartar and Chinese cities Page 344
CHAPTER XXII.
The streets of Peking — Imperial palaces — Lama mosque — Western
side of the city — Portuguese cemetery — Marble tablets—Tombs
of Catholic priests — Rioci and Verries — Visits to the Chinese
city — Scenes at the gates — The cabs of Peking—Shops and
merchandise — Vegetables and fruits — "Paternoster Bow " —
Jade-stone and bronzes — Ancient porcelain — Temple of Agricul-
ture — South side of Chinese city— Nursery gardens and plants —
Country people — South-west side of Chinese city— Waste lands —
Royal ladies expected — A September morning in Peking—Northern
part of the Tartar city — The An-ting gate — Graves of English
officers — The Lama temple — Chief features of Peking .. 357
CHAPTER XXIII.
A journey to the mountains—Long trains of camels and donkeys —
Pagoda at Pale-twang — Large cemetery — Curious fir-tree —
Agricultural productions — Country people — Reach the foot of the
hills — Temples of Pata-tshoo — Foreign writing on a wall—A
noble oak-tree discovered — Ascend to the top of the mountains
— Fine views — Visit from mandarins — Early morning view—
Return to Peking — Descend the Pei-ho — Sail for Shanghae—
Arrange and ship my collections — Arrive in Southampton .. 373
Index
380


LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
1. View of Yokuhama, from the hills behind the town.. Frontispiece.
rAOK
2. View of Castle Island, Cape Gotto 1
3. View of Pusi-yama—From a Japanese sketch 28
4. Street in Kanagawa. — The Tokaido or Imperial
Highway To face p. 42
5. Packhorse, with grass shoes 44
6. Umbrella Pine (Sciadopitys verticUlata) To face p. 47
7. Farm-houses near Yedo, with Iris on the Roofs .. To face p. 57
8. Plan of Central Portion of the City of Yedo .. .. To face p. 81
9. A Yedo Gentleman, with Servant carrying Sword, and
Custom-house Officer with Fan 90
10. Japanese Heads, showing the mode of dressing the hair .. 119
11. Bridge Scene in Yedo.—From a native sketch .. To face p. 125
12. Bikuni, or Mendicant Nuns ,. .. - 138
13. Nursery Maids 143
14. Ino-Sima, " Our Pilot's Home" To face p. 161
15. Entrance to Kamino-Saki Harbour To face p. 165
16. Remarkable Beetle (Damaster blaptoides) 179
17. Girls meeting—an example of Japanese manners 218
18. Bronze Image 231
19. Sturdy Beggars.—From a Photograph .. .. 329
20. Street Musicians.—From a Photograph 330
21. White-barked Pine (Pinus Bungeana) To face p. 378
22. Map of Japan and part of China At the end.


PEKING.

View of Castle Island, Cape Gotto
CHAPTER I.
First view of Japan — Curious islands — Papenberg — Massacre of
Christians — Visit from the officials — Harbour of Nagasaki —
Desima of old —- Desima of the present day — Japanese factory —•
Town of Nagasaki — Tea-houses — Salamanders — Buddhist
temples — Large camphor-trees — Tombs — Mimic processions —
Dr. Siebold's residence — Excursions — Epunga — Natural pro-
ductions — Scenery — Trade of Nagasaki — Its capabilities as a
Sanatarium.
At daylight on the 12th of October, 1860, the
swift little barque 'Marmora,' in which I was a
passenger from China, was rapidly approaching
the coast of Japan—a country at the ends of the
earth, and well named by its inhabitants "the


'2
Chap. I.
FIRST VIEW OF JAPAN.
Kingdom of the Origin of the Sun." When I
came on deck in the morning the far-famed shores
of Zipangu lay spread before my wondering eyes
for the first time. Having heard and read so
many stories of this strange land—of its stormy
coasts, on which many a goodly vessel had been
wrecked; of its fearful earthquakes, which were
said to have thrown up, in a single night, moun-
tains many thousands of feet above the level of
the sea; of its luxuriant vegetation, full of strange
and beautiful forms; of its curious inhabitants;
and last, but not least, of its salamanders !—I had
long looked upon Japan much in the same light
as the Romans regarded our own isles in the days
of the ancient Britons.
My first view of these shores, however, did a
good deal towards dispelling this delusion. It
was a lovely morning. The sun rose from be-
hind the eastern mountains without a cloud to
obscure his rays. The Gotto islands and Cape Gotto
were passed to the north of us, and with a fair
wind and smooth sea we were rapidly approach-
ing the large island of Kiu-siu, on which the
town of Nagasaki is situated. The land is hilly
and mountainous, and in many instances it rises
perpendicularly from the sea. These perpendi-
cular rocky cliffs have a very curious appearance
as one sails along. There are also a number of
queer-looking detached little islands dotted about;
and one almost wonders how they got there, as
they seem to have no connexion with any other


Chap. I. FAPENBERG. 3
land near them. Some of them are crowned with
a scraggy pine-tree or two, and look exactly like
those bits of rockwork which are constantly met
with in the gardens of China and Japan. No
doubt these rocky islands have suggested the idea
worked out in gardens, and they have been well
imitated. Others of these rocks look in the dis-
tance like ships under full sail, and in one instance
I observed a pair of them exactly like fishing-
junks, which are generally met with in pairs.
Nearer the shore the islands are richly clothed
with trees and brushwood, resembling those pretty
"Pulos" which are seen in the Eastern Archi-
pelago. The highest hills on this part of the
mainland of Kiu-siu are about 1500 feet above
the level of the sea; but hills of every height,
from 300 to 1500 feet, and of all forms, were ex-
posed to our view as we approached the entrance
to the harbour of Nagasaki. Many of these hills
were terraced nearly to their summits, and at this
season these terraces were green with the young
crops of wheat and barley.
The pretty little island of Papenberg stands as
if it were a sentinel guarding the harbour of
Nagasaki. Pretty it certainly is, and yet it is
associated with scenes of persecution, cruelty, and
bloodshed of the most horrible description. "If
history spoke true," says Captain Sherard Osborn,
"deeds horrid enough for it to have been for ever
blighted by God's wrath have been perpetrated
there during the persecutions of the Christians in
B 2


1
CHap. I.
HOMAN CATHOLIC MARTYRS.
the seventeenth century. It was the Golgotha of
the many martyrs to the Roman Catholic faith.
There, by day and by night, its steep cliffs had
rung with the agonized shrieks of strong men, or
the wail of women and children, launched to rest,
after torture, in the deep waters around the island.
If Jesuit records are to be believed, the fortitude
and virtue exhibited by their Japanese converts
in those sad hours of affliction have not been ex-
celled in any part of the world since religion gave
another plea to man to destroy his fellow-creature;
and may it not be that the beauty with which
Nature now adorns that rock of sorrows is her halo
of glory around a spot rendered holy by the suf-
ferings, doubtless, of many that were brave and
good?" As we passed the island we gazed with
awe and pity on its perpendicular side, from
which these Christians were cast headlong into
the sea.
As soon as our ship rounded Papenberg the
harbour and town of Nagasaki came full into view.
On each side of this entrance to the bay there are
numerous batteries, apparently full of guns. On
Papenberg itself, as well as on every little island
and headland, fortifications were observed as we
sailed along. There is also a flagstaff and tele-
graph station on one of the hills; and the moment
a ship is seen approaching, a signal is made and
passed on to Nagasaki. We were not molested
by either guard-boat or customhouse officer, but
allowed to sail quietly in to our anchorage. Here


Chap. I. HARBOUR OF NAGASAKI. 5
we were boarded by sundry officials, who imme-
diately began to put all sorts of questions regard-
ing the ship, her cargo and passengers; and the
information obtained was all committed to paper.
The commanding officer was then informed that
two of these gentry would be left on board, and
he was requested to give them shelter and accom-
modation in the cabin.
The harbour of Nagasaki is one of the most
beautiful in the world. It is about a mile in
width, and three or four in length. When you
are inside it appears to be completely land-locked,
and has all the appearance of an inland lake.
The hills around it are some 1500 feet in height,
and their surface is divided and broken up by long
ridges and deep glens or valleys which extend
far up towards the summits. These ridges and
glens are for the most part richly wooded, while
all the more fertile spots are terraced and under
cultivation. The whole scene presents a quiet
and charming picture of Nature's handiwork inter-
mingled with the labour of man.
On the south side of the harbour there has been
a portion of land set apart for the subjects of
foreign nations whose Governments have lately
made treaties with Japan. The various Consuls,
most of whom are also merchants, reside at pre-
sent in small houses or temples on the sides of
the hill behind the settlement. It is an inter-
esting sight to see the flags of several Western
nations—English, French, American, and Por-


6 ISLAND OF DESIMA. Chap. I.
tuguese—flying at this distance from home. A
great portion of the land set apart for the
foreign settlement was in the course of being
reclaimed from the sea, and ere long a town of
considerable size will rise on the shores of this
beautiful bay.
The island of Desima—dear old Desima, where
the Dutch have traded and dreamed so long—lies
a little further up the bay, and looks in the dis-
tance like a small fort or breastwork in front of
Nagasaki.* In these days, when Japan has to
a great extent been opened to foreigners, it is
amusing to read the account of the restrictions
which were placed upon the movements of the
Dutch during the period when all the trade of
Japan was their own. The little island was only
separated from Nagasaki by a narrow canal
spanned by a stone bridge, but the dwellers on
either side were prevented from seeing each other
by means of a high wall. The bridge was closed
by a gate, beside which was a guardhouse occupied
by police and soldiers; and no one was allowed to
quit the island on any pretence without the per-
mission of the Governor. Japanese were not
allowed to visit the Dutch without permission, ex-
cepting those who were appointed to inspect their
dwelling-place, and then only at certain hours.
The Japanese servants of the Factory were obliged
to leave the island at sunset, and to report them-
* It is about 600 foot in length, and 240 in width.


Chap. I.
7
ISLAND OF DESIMA.
selves at the guardhouse to prove that they had
really left the Factory. The only individuals
exempt from leaving the island at sunset were
women who had forfeited the first claim of their
sex to respect or esteem, and no female of good
character was permitted on any pretence to set
foot upon Desima. A placard set up near the
bridge-gate announced this in the plainest and
coarsest terms.
When any member uf the Factory wished to
visit the town of Nagasaki, or the country in its
vicinity, for a little recreation or amusement, he
was obliged to send in a petition to the Governor
twenty-four hours beforehand. Leave was usually
granted, providing the captive was accompanied
by a certain number of officials, police-officers, and
a compradore. These again had their servants
and friends, so that the attendants and hangers-
on of one unfortunate pleasure-seeker usually
amounted to some twenty or thirty persons, all of
whom he was bound to entertain.
On entering the town of Nagasaki the pleasure-
party was soon surrounded and followed by all
the boys and idlers within reach, who shouted
"Holanda! Holanda!" or "Holanda Capitain I"
in the Dutchman's ears, and rendered his walk
anything but an agreeable one. The excursion
into the surrounding country must, however, have
fully repaid the unfortunate captive for the dis-
agreeables of the town. The scenery amongst the
hills is of the most charming description, and


8
Chap. I.
JAPANESE FACTORY.
must have been fully appreciated by men who
were cooped up on a little mud-bank like the
island of Desima. •
Such was the state of affairs only three or four
years ago. At the time of my visit in the autumn
of 1860 all this had undergone a wonderful change
—certainly wonderful for Japan. The old bridge
which connects the island with the town of Naga-
saki is still there, and presents a venerable and
somewhat ruinous aspect; the guardhouse is now
empty, the gate has been removed, a part of the
wall has been thrown down, and the Dutch are no
longer the prisoners they once were. Like other
foreigners, they can now visit the town when they
choose, and roam about the surrounding country
to any distance within twenty-five or thirty miles,
without any interference from the Japanese.
In my wanderings in Desima I stumbled upon a
large rough piece of rock, on which were carved
the words "Kaempfer" and "Thunberg." No
other eulogy was necessary. It is pleasing to
note that the modern Dutch reverence the names
of these men of science who have done so much to
make us acquainted with the people and natural
productions of Japan.
Opposite Desima, and on the other side of the
bay, the Japanese have a large factory in active
operation. The machinery has been imported
from Europe, and the superintendents are Dutch.
The Japanese workmen appear to be most expert
hands at moulding and casting, and in the general


Chap. I.
!)
TOWN OF NAGASAKI.
management of steam machinery. In this respect
they are far in advance of their neighbours the
Chinese. Indeed, to adopt everything foreign
which they suppose to be useful, however different
it may be from what they possess themselves, and
to make themselves masters of the mode of work-
ing it, is a marked feature in the character of the
Japanese people.
Nagasaki, or Nangasaki, as it is sometimes
called, is situated on the northern shores of the
bay, and is supposed to contain about 70,000 in-
habitants. It is about a mile in length, and three-
quarters of a mile in width, and fills up the space
of ground between the shores of the bay and the
hills which surround it. The streets are wide and
clean, compared with those in Chinese towns; but
as a general rule the shops are poor, and contain
few articles of much value. Substances used as
food, eggshell porcelain, lacquer ware of an
inferior kind, and modern bronzes, are plentiful
and comparatively cheap. Although the houses
of the common people have a poor and mean
appearance, there are some of considerable pre-
tensions. Curiously enough, the largest and most
notable buildings in the town, if we except the
palace of the Governor, are what are called tea-
houses—places of amusement, where the enter-
tainments are not such as accord with our ideas
of morality. They seem at the present day much
in the same condition in which Kgempfer found
them nearly two hundred years ago.


10
Ciiap. I.
JAPANESE COURTESANS.
"The handsomest buildings," says Kaempfer,
"belonging to the townspeople, are two streets
all occupied by courtesans. The girls in these
establishments, which abound throughout Japan,
are purchased of their parents when very young.
The price varies in proportion to their beauty
and the number of years agreed for, which is,
generally speaking, ten or twenty, more or less.
They are very commodiously lodged in handsome
apartments, and great care is taken to teach them
to dance, sing, play upon musical instruments, to
write letters, and in all other respects to make
them as agreeable as possible. The older ones
instruct the young ones, and these in their turn
serve the older ones as their waiting-maids. Those
who make considerable improvement, and for their
beauty and agreeable behaviour are oftener sent
for, to the great advantage of their masters, are
also better accommodated in clothes and lodging,
all at the expense of their lovers, who must pay
so much the dearer for their favours One
of the sorriest must watch the house overnight,
in a small room near the door, free to all comers
upon the payment of one mase. Others are sen-
tenced to keep the watch by way of punishment
for their misbehaviour.
"After having served their time, if they are
married, they pass among the common people for
honest women, the guilt of their past lives being
by no means laid to their charge, but to that of
their parents or relations who sold them in their


Chap. I.
11
GARDENS OF THE PEOPLE.
infancy for so scandalous a way of getting a
livelihood, before they were able to choose a more
honest one. Besides, as they are generally well
bred, that makes it less difficult for them to get
husbands. The keepers of these houses, on the
contrary, though possessed of never so plentiful
estates, are for ever denied admittance into honest
company."
The houses of the high officials, wealthy mer-
chants, or retired gentlemen, though generally
small, and only of one or two stories in height,
are comfortable and cleanly dwelling-places. One
marked feature of the people, both high and low,
is a love for flowers. Almost every house which
has any pretension to respectability has a flower-
garden in tbe rear, oftentimes indeed small, but
neatly arranged; this adds greatly to the comfort
and happiness of the family. As the lower parts
of the Japanese houses and shops are open both
before and behind, I had peeps of these pretty
little gardens as I passed along the streets; and
wherever I observed one better than the rest I
did not fail to pay it a visit. Everywhere the
inhabitants received me most politely, and per-
mitted me to examine their pet flowers and dwarf
trees. Many of these places are exceedingly
small, some not much larger than a good-sized
dining-room; but the surface is rendered varied
and pleasing by means of little mounds of turf,
on which are planted dwarf trees kept clipped
into fancy forms, and by miniature lakes, in which


12
Chap. I.
GARDENS OF THE GENTRY.
gold and silver fish and tortoises disport them-
selves. It is quite refreshing to the eye to look
out from the houses upon these gardens. The
plants generally met with in them were the fol-
lowing :—Cycas revoluta, Azaleas, the pretty little
dwarf variegated bamboo introduced by me into
England from China, Pines, Junipers, Taxus, Po-
docarpus, Rhapis flabellifomnis, and some ferns.
These gardens may be called the gardens of the
respectable working classes.
Japanese gentlemen in Nagasaki, whose wealth
enables them to follow out their favourite pur-
suits more extensively, have another class of
gardens. These, although small according to our
ideas, are still considerably larger than those of
the working classes; many of them are about a
quarter of an acre in extent. They are generally
turfed over; and, like the smaller ones, they are
laid out with an undulating surface, some parts
being formed into little mounds, while others are
converted into lakes. In several of these places
I met with azaleas of extraordinary size—much
larger than I have ever seen in China, or in any
other part of the world, the London exhibitions
not excepted. One I measured was no less than
40 feet in circumference! These plants are kept
neatly nipped and clipped into a fine round form,
perfectly flat upon the top, and look like dining-
room tables. They must be gorgeous objects
when in flower. Farfugium -grande, and many
other variegated plants still undescribed, were


Chap. I.
13
COLLECTION OF PLANTS.
met with in these gardens, in addition to those
I have named as being favourites with the lower
orders.
One old gentleman to whom I was introduced
by my friend Mr. Mackenzie—Mr. Matotski—has
a nice collection of pot-plants arranged on stages,
much in the same way as we arrange them in our
greenhouses in England. Amongst them I noted
small plants of the beautiful Sciadopitys verticiUata,
several Retinosporas, some with variegated leaves;
Thujopsis dolabrata, and variegated examples of
laurel, bamboo, orontium, and Hoya Matotskii—a
name given by some Dutch botanist in honour of
the old gentleman, and of which he was not a
little proud. Mr. Matotski is a fine mild-looking
Japanese, rather beyond the middle age. He has
a collection of birds, such as gold and silver phea-
sants; and in his library are some illustrated
botanical books, which he shows with great pride
to his visitors. He presented me with a few rare
plants from his collection, and offered to procure
me some others, of which he had no duplicates in
his own garden.
In the course of my rambles I came upon some
tubs containing living salamanders for sale, and in
the same quarter I observed some striking and
beautiful kinds of fowls. These were rather above
the ordinary size, but were remarkable for their
fine plumage. The tail-feathers were long and
gracefully curved, and fine silky ones hung down on
each side of the hinder part of the back. Bantams


11
Our. I.
TEMPLES AND GARDENS.
were also plentiful, and bold independent-looking
little fellows they appeared to be.
Three streams of water, spanned by numerous
bridges, run down from the hills through the town;
but at the time of my visit they were nearly dry.
Besides supplying the town with water, they are
used in summer for purposes of irrigation, and for
driving water-mills.
A Chinese town of this size and importance
would have had walls and fortifications, but there
is nothing of the kind at Nagasaki; indeed, such a
mode of defence does not seem to be common in
Japan. The streets have gates thrown across them
at certain places, and these are always closed at
night; and, in the case of any disturbance, during
the day, should occasion require it.
Behind the town, on the hill-side, there are
many large Buddhist temples and gardens. These
are placed in the best situations; the view over the
town, the bay, and the distant hills is most charm-
ing, and well repays the visitor for the toil of the
ascent. Camphor-trees of a great size wrere common
about these temples. They were apparently of
great age, and were the finest examples of this
tree that had come under my observation. The
Pinus Chinense, or P. Massoniana, was also com-
mon, and attains a great size. Higher up, the
hill-sides were covered with many thousands of
tombstones, marking the tombs of generations who
have long since passed away. This large cemetery
forms a prominent object in the landscape, and


Chap. I.
15
MIMIC PROCESSIONS.
presents a striking and curious appearance to the
stranger who looks upon it for the first time.
One day, during my walks in Nagasaki, I had an
opportunity of seeing some extraordinary proces-
sions. The first one I saw consisted of a number
of men dressed up as Chinamen, who were sup-
porting a huge dragon, and making it wriggle
about in an extraordinary manner. Another pro-
cession consisted of little children, some so small
that they could hardly walk, who were dressed in
the Dutch military costume—cocked hats, tailed-
coats with epaulets, dress swords, and everything
in the first style, closely resembling Mynheer on
gala-days, when the trade of Japan was all his
own, and Desima—dear little prison—his abiding
place. In this procession, Dutch fraus and frau-
leins were duly represented, and truth compels me
to say that they were never shown off to more
advantage. The procession was accompanied by
a band, dressed up also in an appropriate manner:
they had European instruments, and played Euro-
pean music. The day was fine; thousands of
people lined the streets, flags were hung from every
window, and altogether the scene was most amusing.
I followed the procession through the principal
streets, and then up to a large temple situated on
the hill-side above the town. Here the infantine
troop was put through various military manoeu-
vres, which were executed in a most creditable
manner. I was amused at the gravity with which
everything was done—each child looked as if it was


16
Chap. I.
DR. SIEBOLD'S RESIDENCE.
in sober earnest, and scarcely a smile played on
one of the many little faces that were taking part
in this mimic representation of the good Dutch-
men. The exercises having been gone through,
the band struck up a lively air, and the little actors
marched away to their homes.
On the side of a hill, a few miles out of Na-
gasaki, and amongst the most beautiful scenery,
lives the veteran naturalist, Dr. Von Siebold. His
house is some distance away from that of any other
European; and his delight seems to be in his
garden, his library, and the Japanese country
people who are his friends. As I had determined
to pay him a visit during my stay in Nagasaki, I
chose a fine day, and set out in the direction of
his residence after breakfast.
My road led me through the heart of the town.
The streets, as I have already remarked, were wide
and clean, and contrasted most favourably with
towns of equal size in China. The common neces-
saries of life seemed to be abundant everywhere.
Amongst fruits I observed the Diospyros kaki,
pears, oranges, Salisburia nuts, chesnuts, water
melons, acorns, &c. The vegetables consisted of
carrots, onions, nelumbium roots, turnips, lily-
roots, ginger, Arum esculmtum, yams, sweet pota-
toes, and a root called "gobbo," apparently a
species of Arctium.
After passing through the town the road led
me up a beautiful rice valley, terraced in all
directions and watered abundantly by the streams


Chap. I. Dli. SIEBOLD'S RESIDENCE.
17
which flow from the mountains. On each side of
the valley the hills are richly wooded, partially
with trees and partially with brushwood. The trees
I observed were Pinus Massoniana, Cryptomeria,
Retinospora, camphor, oaks, camellias, &c. The
view from one side, looking down upon and over
the valley, and resting on the opposite hill, is
rich indeed, and I almost envied Dr. Siebold his
residence, which is situated on the left-hand side
going up the valley. I found him at home, and
he received me most kindly. His house is a
good one for Japan, and his workshop or library,
to which he introduced me, contains works
of all countries on his favourite pursuits con-
nected with natural history. But it was to the
garden that my attention was more particularly
drawn.
On a level with the house and around it are
small nurseries for the reception and propagation
of new plants, and for preparing them for trans-
portation to Europe. Here I noted examples of
most of the plants figured and described in Dr.
Siebold's great work, the 'Flora Japonica,' so well
known to all lovers of oriental plants; and several
new things hitherto undescribed., A new Aucuba
with white blotches on the leaves was striking;
there was also the male variety of the old A.
japonica, numerous fine Conifers, such as ThujopsLs
dolabrata, Sciadopitys verticillata, Retinospora pisi-
fera and R. obiusa, and many other objects of
interest. Plants with variegated foliage were
c


CUAP. I.
19
EPUNGA.
duced me to a number of native gentlemen whose
gardens were rich in the botanical productions of
Japan; and I am glad to take this opportunity
of stating, that to him and to Mr. Mackenzie I
am indebted for many important additions to my
collections. Everywhere we were received with
the most marked politeness by the Japanese—a
politeness which I am vain enough to think we
did not abuse in the slightest degree.
I have already stated that according to treaty
foreigners are now allowed to visit the country
in the vicinity of the ports that have been opened
to trade. The distance allowed is ten ri, or from
twenty-five to thirty miles. I was not slow to
avail myself of this liberty in order to examine
the natural products and agriculture of the country.
Day by day excursions were made, either on foot
or on horseback. One of these was to a place
called Epunga, a kind of picnic station amongst
the hills, about four or five miles from the town.
The summer agricultural productions of the country
through which I passed were much like those in
the province of Chekiang in China—that is, rice
and Arum esculentum on the low lands, and sweet
potatoes, buckwheat (Polygonum tataricum), maize,
&c, on the dry hilly soil. In winter, wheat,
barley, and rape are produced on the dry lands,
and the rice-lands are generally allowed to lie
fallow.
On the hill-sides I observed the Japan wax-
tree {Rhus succedaneuin) cultivated extensively.
c 2


20
Chap. I.
NATURAL PRODUCTIONS.
It occupies the same position on these hills as
the Chinese tallow-tree (Stillingia sebifera) does
in Chekiang. It grows to about the same size,
and, curiously enough, it produces the same effect
upon the autumnal landscape by its leaves chang-
ing from green into a deep blood-red colour as
they ripen before falling off. Some camphor-trees
(Lauras camphord) of enormous size were observed
about the temples on the outskirts of Nagasaki,
and Cryptomeria japonica was a very common tree
on all the hill-sides. The latter is often used as
a fence round gardens, and a very pretty one it
makes. When I first saw it used for this purpose,
it struck me that something of the same kind
might be done with it at home, now that it is
so common in every nursery. The Japanese man-
age it much in the same way as we do our yew
hedges; and when kept regularly clipped it is not
only exceedingly pretty, but it also is so dense
that nothing can get through it. The tea-plant
is also common on these hill-sides, but the great
tea country of Japan is 200 or 300 miles further
to the northward, near the famous Miaco, where
the Spiritual Emperor resides.
At this season the tea was just coming into
flower, so that I was enabled to procure speci-
mens for the herbarium. It is no doubt identical
with the China plant, and may have been intro-
duced from China; although, as the productions of
the two countries are Very similar in character, it
may be indigenous. In its mode of growth and


22
Chap. I.
BEAUTIFUL SCENERY.
its summit. It was a glorious autumnal day, such
a day as one rarely sees in our own changeable
climate. The sky was cloudless, so that when we
reached the top our view on all sides was bounded
only by the horizon. Looking to the south-east,
far below us we saw the town of Nagasaki, with
the beautiful bay in its front. On its smooth
waters were the ships of several nations at anchor,
besides a number of boats and junks of native
build, and rather picturesque in their way. Turn-
ing round and looking to the north-west, the eye
rested on many hundreds of little hills having a
conical form, and covered to their summits with
trees and brushwood. Behind them were moun-
tains, apparently 2000 or 3000 feet in height, and
a deep bay looking like an inland sea. Amongst
the hills there were many beautiful and fertile
valleys, now yellow with the ripening rice crops;
and numerous villages and farmhouses gave life
to the scene, which was one of extraordinary
beauty and interest.
On our way home we visited a little garden
belonging to an interpreter to the Japanese
Government. Here again I noticed some azaleas
remarkable for their great size, and an extra-
ordinary specimen of a dwarfed fir-tree. Its
lower branches were trained horizontally some
twenty feet in length; all the leaves and branch-
lets were tied down and clipped, so that the whole
was as flat as a board. The upper branches were
trained to form circles one above another like so


Chap. I.
23
TRADE OF NAGASAKI..
many little tables, and the whole plant had a most
curious appearance. A man was at work upon it
at the time, and I believe it keeps him constantly
employed every day throughout the year!
Since the opening of the port of Nagasaki to
other nations besides the Chinese and Dutch, its
trade has been greatly enlarged. The harbour is
now gay with the ships of all nations, and a brisk
trade has sprung up between Japan and China—
a trade which the quiet old Dutchmen never
seemed to have dreamed of. Large quantities of
seaweed, salt fish, and sundry other articles are
exported to China; while the Chinese import
medicine of various kinds, Sapan wood, and many
other kinds of dyes. The exports to Europe are
chiefly tea, vegetable wax (the produce of the
Rhus already noticed), and copper, which is found
in large quantities in the Japanese islands. At
present there is little demand for our English
manufactures, but that may spring up in time.
Although Nagasaki may never become a place of
very great importance as regards trade, it will no
doubt prove one of the most healthy stations in
the East; and may one day become most valuable
as a sanatarium for our troops in that quarter of
the globe.


2\
ChAp. II.
VAN DIEMAN'S STRAIT.
CHAPTER IL
VVc leave Nagasaki — Van Dieman's Strait — Gale of wind — Vries's
Island — View of Fusi-yama—Bay of Yedo — Yokuhama—Its
value as a port for trade — Foreign houses — Native town —
Shops — Bronzes, ivory carvings, and curiosities — Lacquer ware —
Porcelain — Rock-crystal balls — Toys — Books and maps — Mena-
gerie — The Gan-ke-ro — Surrounding country — Its geological
formation.
Leaving Nagasaki and its beautiful scenery at
daylight on the 19th of October, we proceeded
on our voyage to the port of Kanagawa, near
Yedo, the capital of Japan, and distant from
Nagasaki about 700 miles. When outside the
harbour of Nagasaki the mariner has two courses
open to him: he may either go northward, and
pass through the inland sea which divides the
islands of Nipon and Kiu-siu, or he may take a
southerly course and go through Van Dieman's
Strait, and thus out into the waters of the Pacific
Ocean. Sailing vessels generally choose the latter,
as being the safer and more expeditious wTay of
reaching their destination, and this was the 'Mar-
mora's' course in the present instance. Luckily
we had a fair wind all the way from Nagasaki
until we got through the strait. Near the entrance
to the strait there are some small islands known to


Chap. II.
25
SULPHUIt ISLAND.
mariners as the "Retribution Rocks." They are
only a few feet above the water, and are rather
dangerous neighbours in a dark night, or during
those heavy gales for which this coast is so unfa-
vourably known. On our left we observed the
mainland of Kiu-siu, stretching far away to the
eastward, and ending in a Cape named "Cape
Chichakoff." A. high conical-shaped mountain
named "Horner Peak," 2345 feet in height, and
not unlike Fusi-yama in miniature, was also passed
on our left. It forms an excellent landmark to
the navigator of these seas. Between "Horner
Peak" and the Cape there is a deep bay jutting
inland for 30 or 40 miles, and having at its head
an important city named Kagosima, where the
Prince of Satsuma has his head-quarters. On the
south side of the strait we observed several large
islands, one of which is named Iwo-sima, or Sul-
phur Island. This is an active volcano, and smoke
and flames are continually rising, not from its sum-
mit in the usual way, but from many parts of its
sides. The whole mountain seems on fire, and
has a very curious appearance when seen during
the night.
The coast of Japan is remarkable for the sud-
denness with which gales of wind come on, and we
were now destined to have our turn. It was a
beautiful evening when we were nearly abreast of
Cape Chichakoff; we had a light fair wind, and
our little bark was gliding along at the rate of
six or seven miles an hour. We were congratu-


20 " GALE OF WIND. Chap. II.
lating ourselves on our great good luck, and just
coming to the conclusion that all we had heard
and read of the gales on this coast were so many
"travellers' stories;" but we were soon compelled
to come to a different conclusion. Towards dark
the sky began to wear a lowering appearance in
the north-east, and in less than half an hour we
were in the midst of a gale of wind. Sail after
sail was taken in, and at last it was deemed advis-
able to lie to until some change in the weather
should take place. The sea also rose with great
rapidity, and, except in a typhoon in China, I never
recollect such a gale and such a sea. Our little
bark behaved admirably, rising and falling with
the sea, and shipping comparatively little water.
For two days it was necessary for us to remain
in this uncomfortable position; and when the gale
moderated, and we were able to get a little sail
upon the vessel, the winds were foul, and carried
us considerablv to the southward of our course.
But it cannot always blow a gale, even in Japan;
so, whether the winds were tired of persecuting us,
or whether it was owing to the influence of sundry
old shoes which were thrown overboard, 1 cannot
say, but the gale ceased, and a fair wind sprang
up from the westward. On the evening of the
28th we were abreast of Cape Idsu—that Cape of
Storms where it is said to blow always. Our expe-
rience, however, was rather different; for we
seemed to run into a dead calm, with a heavy
tumbling sea.


("HAP. II.
27
MOUNT FUSI.
At daybreak on the 29th we were opposite a
group of islands situated not very far from the
entrance to the Bay of Yedo. One of them—
Vries's Island—rises to the height of 2530 feet
above the sea, and has an active volcano on its
summit. The smoke, which continuously rises
from this mountain, forms an excellent landmark
for mariners approaching this part of the coast.
As we sailed past we observed that on the sides of
the mountain, and particularly down near the
shore, there were numerous villages and small
towns. There were apparently some fertile valleys
and hill-sides at a low elevation, but near the
summit all appeared barren, while huge volumes
of smoke were seen following each other at short
intervals.
On our left, on that same morning, was spread
out to our admiring gaze the fair land of Nipon;
and very beautiful it was to look upon. The land
was hilly and mountainous as in China; but there
appeared, some fifty or sixty miles inland, Mount
Fusi, or Fusi-yama, the "Matchless," or Holy
Mountain of the Japanese. Its northern slopes
were covered with snow, but on its southern sides
green streaks of verdure were visible. This moun-
tain is the highest in Japan. It was formerly
supposed to be only 10,000 or 12,000 feet above
the level of the sea, but later observations made
by Mr. Alcock's party in 1860 give it a height of
14,177 feet.
In the evening we passed Cape Sagami at the


28
Chap. II.
HAY OF YEPO.

View o! Fuui-yaiua.—From a Japanese sketch.
entrance of the Bay of Yedo, and at daybreak
next morning we were well up the bay, and only
a short distance from the Yokuhama anchorage.
On our right, in the direction of Yedo, we ob-
served a cloud of boats under sail, composed
chiefly of fishing-boats which supply the markets
of the capital and the surrounding towns with fish.
Dming our voyage from Nagasaki I had observed


ChAP. II.
YOKUIIAMA.
very few native vessels or fishing-boats, such as
may be seen crowding the waters of the Chinese
coast. In so far as sea-going vessels are con-
cerned, I was quite prepared to see but few, as the
Japanese are not a maritime nation, and do not
send ships to foreign countries; but I fully ex-
pected to see fleets of fishing-boats along the shore,
and their absence leads me to doubt whether the
Japanese islands are as populous as they are gene-
rally supposed to be.
We anchored abreast of the town of Yokuhama
at eight o'clock on the morning of the 30th of
October. This is one of the ports opened by treaty
to foreigners, and it is the one nearest to the
capital. It was here that in March, 1854, Com-
modore Perry, of the United States Navy, con-
cluded his treaty with the Japanese. At one of
the interviews presents were delivered from the
American Government. These consisted of Ame-
rican cloths, agricultural implements, firearms, and
a beautiful locomotive, tender, and passenger car,
one-fourth of the ordinary size. The latter was
put in motion on a circular track, and went at the
rate of twenty miles an hour. The Japanese, we
are told, were more interested in this than in any-
thing else; but, Chinese-like, concealed all expres-
sions of wonder or astonishment.
The town of Kanagawa, on the opposite or
northern side of the bay, is the place named as the
port in the treaty, but it was found unsuitable
owing to the shallowness of the water all along


30
Chap. II.
YOKUHAMA.
that part of the shore. For a long time the
ministers and consuls of the Treaty powers en-
deavoured to induce their respective merchants to
abstain from renting land or building on the Yoku-
hama side of the bay. Curiously enough, however,
the Japanese Government took a different view
of the matter, aad encouraged the merchants to
come to Yokuhama by building for them dwelling-
houses, and commodious piers and landing-places.
Both places had their advantages and disadvan-
tages. The argument of the consuls in favour of ad-
hering to Kanagawa was that it was on the great
highway of Japan ; and that, as Japanese from all
parts of the empire were daily passing through it,
our merchandise would, through them, be carried
to all parts of the country, and would in this
manner be quickly known and appreciated. It
was also hinted that the Government intended to
hem foreigners in at Yokuhama by means of a
broad and deep canal; that this in fact was to be
another Desima; and that we were to be made
prisoners and treated in all respects as the Dutch
were in the olden time at Nagasaki.
The advantage of Kanagawa being on the great
highway of Japan was fully admitted by the mer-
chants, but they believed that if they located them-
selves there the Government would lead the main
road round by some other way, and would take
measures to have them and their Japanese cus-
tomers as much under control as at Yokuhama.
As to the latter place being made a second Desima,


Ohap. II.
31
YOKUHAMA.
they argued that the time had gone by when such
things were possible. Besides, if Kanagawa was
chosen, the ships would have to lie a long way
from the shore, where they would oftentimes be
unapproachable owing to the state of the weather,
which is very uncertain on this coast. Altogether
Yokuhama was the most suitable place for the
transaction of their business, and it was business
which had brought them to Japan.
While this discussion was going on, the Japanese
Government, for reasons of its own, was affording
every facility to those who wished to settle at
Yokuhama; and notwithstanding the opposition of
the ministers and consuls of the Treaty powers, the
merchants carried their point." Unhappily all this
was the cause of much wrangling and ill feeling,
which it will take some time to remove.
When the American squadron first visited Yoku-
hama in 1854, it was but a small fishing village,
containing probably not more than 1000 inhabit-
ants. Now the population amounts to 18,000 or
20,000, and a large town covers a space which was
formerly occupied by rice-fields and vegetable
gardens. The town is built on the flat land which
extends along the shores of the bay, and is backed
by a kind of semicircle of low richly-wooded hills.
It is about a mile long, and a quarter to half a
mile in width; but it is increasing rapidly every
day, and no doubt the whole of the swamp which
lies between it and the hills will soon be covered
with buildings.


32
Chap. II.
YOKUHAMA.
A large customhouse has been erected near the
centre of the town, the foreign allotments being on
the east side of it, and the native town chiefly on
the west, so that foreigners and natives are kept
each by themselves. A broad and deep canal has
been dug round the town, and is connected with
the bay at each end. It will be seen, therefore,
that with the sea in front, and this canal carried
round behind, the place can easily be completely
isolated. Guardhouses are placed at the points of
egress, and no one can go out or come in without
the knowledge of the guards, and consequently of
the Government. As I have already hinted, the
Japanese have been much abused for this arrange-
ment; but it is possible, indeed I think it highly
probable, that it has been intended more for our
protection than for anything else.
The new houses of the foreign merchants are
generally one-storied bungalows, built almost en-
tirely of wood and plaster. The joints of the
timbers are tied together, or fastened in a way to
allow the entire structure to rock or move to and
fro during those earthquakes which are so common
and sometimes so destructive in this part of the
world. Godowns for the storing of merchandise
are generally erected near the house of the mer-
chant; and in many instances there is also a fire-
proof building on the premises, used for the pro-
tection of specie and the more valuable portion of
the merchant's property. This is of the first import-
ance in a country like Japan, where the buildings


Chap. II. NATIVE PRODUCTIONS.
33
are so combustible in their nature, and where fires
are almost of daily occurrence in all the large towns.
The native town is remarkable for one fine wide
street which runs down its centre. Here are ex-
posed for sale the various productions of the
country in very large quantities. Bronzes, carv-
ings in ivory, lacquer-ware, and porcelain, are all
duly represented. The bronzes are mostly modern,
of ugly shapes, and are chiefly remarkable for the
large quantity of metal they contain, which one
would think might have been applied to a more
useful purpose. The small ivory carvings and
metal buckles for fastening the dress are great
curiosities in their way. They are usually small,
and represent men, women, monkeys, and all sorts
of animals and plants. They exhibit the skill of
the carver in a very favourable light, and are cer-
tainly wonderful examples of patience and in-
dustry. Some collections of these articles were
shown in the late International Exhibition in
London, and were much admired. A writer in the
'Times' describes them in the following terms :—
"The designs in some of these [the metal buckles]
are irresistibly grotesque, and at once recall to
mind the little black woodcuts with which Mr.
Leech began his connexion with 'Punch.' Pro-
bably every object in this collection is by a dif-
ferent artist; yet, though in some the designs are
so minute as to require a magnifying glass to see
them well, all are treated with the same broad
humour, so that it is almost impossible to avoid


84
Chap. II.
METAL BUCKLES.
downright laughter as you examine them. There
is one figure of a man timidly venturing to coax a
snarling dog, which is inimitable in its funny ex-
pression; and so also is the expression on another's
face who is frightened by a ghost. And all these
works, the reader must remember, are not mere
sketches, but are solid little pieces of metal-work,
the background being of bronze, and the raised
figures in relief being either gold, silver, steel, or
platinum, or, as in most cases, of all four metals
intermixed. It is evident, from the platinum
being so freely used here, that the metal must be
much more common with the Japanese than with
us; and that the secret of melting it, to which our
chemical knowledge has only just attained, has
long been known to them. ... In the side of the
case where the metal buckles are shown we find in
a collection of ivory carvings fresh proofs of the
art, skill, and comic genius of the people. Let any
one examine the litter of puppies sprawling over
each other, the grotesque look of pain on the face
of the woman who has been startled by a fox, and
tumbled forward with her fingers under the edge
of a basin; the triumphant aspect of the com-
panion figure, who has succeeded in chipping his
basin down on the fox; yet, notwithstanding their
wonderful finish, all these figures are so small that
they might be worn as brooches."
The modern lacquer-ware is good, but not to be
compared to the fine old Miaco ware, which is
extremely beautiful. There arc a number of shops


Chap. II. LACQUER-WARE — PORCELAIN.
35
where this can be procured; but the prices asked,
and obtained, are very high. The fine polish of the
old lac is unrivalled, and the specimens are often-
times covered with figures of gold. This ware
is met with in the form of writing-boxes and boxes
for holding papers, trays, cabinets, screens, &c.
The finest pieces are often very small, and, although
not of much use, are sufficient to show the high
state of the art at the time when they were made.
I saw few examples of ancient porcelain, although
we know that some fine pieces have found their
way to Europe from Japan. The porcelain-shops
are full of modern ware, chiefly remarkable for
the fine eggshell cups; and I found one or two
examples of good colouring. Generally I did not
admire it, and considered it not equal to that now
made in China, and far inferior to the ancient
porcelain of that country. I observed some cups
and basins, with paintings of English ladies not
badly executed. This shows how quick and imi-
tative the Japanese are as a people, and how
different they are from the slow-going Chinese.
In some of the shops I observed some large
crystal-looking balls said to be of rock crystal.
These were finely polished and clear—not a flaw
of any kind could be detected in their structure—
and were highly prized owing to their great size
and beauty.
All sorts of toys were abundant, and some of
them were most ingenious and pretty. There
were glass balls, with numerous little tortoises in-
i) 2


::<;
Chap. II.
TOYS — MAPS.
side them, whose heads, tails, and feet were in
constant motion; humming-tops, with a number
of trays inside, which all came out and spun round
on the table when the top was set in motion; and
a number of funny things in boxes like little bits
of wood shavings, which perform the most curious
antics when thrown into a basin containing water.
Dolls of the most fascinating kind, with large,
shaved, bobbing heads, crying out most lustily
when pressed upon the stomach, were also met
with in cartloads. One little article, so small one
could scarcely see it, when put upon hot charcoal,
gradually seemed to acquire life and animation,
and moved about for all the world like a brilliant
caterpillar. This large trade in toys shows .us how
fond the Japanese are of their children.
In one of the main streets there is a shop with
an extensive collection of books, maps, charts,
plain and coloured, for sale. A good map of the
city of Yedo may be had here; but the inquirer
for such a thing is invariably taken into a back
room, when he is told that if the authorities knew
of such a thing being sold the vendor would get
his head taken off. To those who are ignorant of
the language, a peculiar motion of the hand about
the region of the neck explains the shopkeeper's
meaning. This is a good stroke of policy, as it
enables the seller to obtain a higher price for the
map, and sends the lucky purchaser off highly
delighted with his bargain. In the same shop I
met with some really good illustrated books, con-


Chap. II.
37
D1UWINGS - MENAG K li IE.
taining views of the country and people about
Miaco and Yedo, the two most famous cities in
Japan. The former is the residence of the Mixado
or Spiritual Emperor, and the latter that of the
Ziogoon or Tycoon. In the art of drawing or
sketching, the Japanese are far inferior to our-
selves, but they are greatly in advance of the
Chinese. Although foreigners have been only a
short time residing in Yokuhama, their appearance,
customs, and manners are faithfully represented
by the Japanese artists. Here are to be found
pictures of men and women—rather caricatures it
must be confessed—engaged in amusements pecu-
liar to highly civilized nations. Ladies riding on
horseback, or walking—duly encompassed with a
wonderful amount of crinoline—are fairly repre-
sented. Scenes in the Gan-ke-ro—a place got up
by the Government for the amusement of foreigners
—are also portrayed in a manner not particularly
flattering to our habits and customs. Boisterous
mirth, indulgence in wine and strong drinks, and
the effects thereof upon those who are inclined to
be quarrelsome, are all carefully depicted. Alto-
gether, some very curious and instructive works
of Japanese art may be picked up in shops of this
description.
Opposite to the bookshop just noticed there is a
menagerie containing a variety of animals for
sale. In this place I remarked some extraordinary-
looking monkeys, which appear to be a source of
great attraction and amusement to the natives.


THE GAN-KE-RO.
Chat. II.
Little dogs were plentiful, and particularly noisy
when a foreigner approached them. Then there
were examples of deer, the eagle of the country,
and singing birds of various kinds in cages. But
the different varieties of fowls struck me more
than anything else. The kind which I had
already seen at Nagasaki was here also, and in
addition a pure white bird with a fine long arched
tail and long silky feathers hanging down from
each side of the back. This is a very beautiful
bird, and well worth being introduced into Europe
if it is not already here.
The Gan-ke-ro, to which I have already alluded,
is a large building at the back of the town, erected
by the Government for the amusement of foreigners.
Here, dinners, suppers, and plays, can always be
"got up on the shortest notice." In other re-
spects this and the buildings in the surrounding
neighbourhood are much like the tea-houses in the
town of Nagasaki. Scenes of debauchery and
drunkenness are common, and even murder is not
infrequent. Over such matters one would will-
ingly draw a veil; but truth must be told in order
to correct the impression which some persons have
of Japan—namely, that it is a very Garden of
Eden, and its inhabitants as virtuous as Adam and
Eve before the fall.
The country in the vicinity of Yokuhama is very
beautiful in its general features. Jt is evidently
of volcanic origin. It consists of low hills and
small valleys: the former having their sloping


Chap. II. GEOLOGICAL FORMATION.
39
sides covered with trees and brushwood, and their
summits, which form a kind of table-land, all
under cultivation. The valleys are very fertile,
and, having a good supply of water, are generally
used for the cultivation of rice.
The geological structure of this part of Japan is
well worthy of notice. In my walks in the country
I came upon a little hill with perpendicular sides,
thus forming a convenient object for observation.
The following is its formation in layers :—
1st layer.—Vegetable soil: black, resembling peat.
2nd „ Shells 2 to 3 feet in thickness. Oysters and
other sea shells.
3rd „ Gravel.
4th „ Light-coloured clay, with pumice-stone and
shells.
5th „ Blueish-coloured clay, with pumice-stone and
shells.
The Yokuhama cliffs are from 60 to 100 feet in
height, nearly perpendicular, and their structure is
as follows :—
1st layer.—Black peaty-looking soil, evidently containing
much vegetable matter.
2nd „ Bed earth much mixed with gravel.
3rd „ Gravel.
4th „ Hard clay. This is intersected here and there
with a layer of gravel, and sometimes with a layer of shells,
principally oysters. The shells are seen sticking on the sur-
face of this layer in all directions. Charred wood and pumice-
stone are also met with in the clay.
Springs of excellent water are abundant on all
the hill-sides. Some of them are deliciously cool
even in the hottest days of summer, and afford a
refreshing draught to the weary traveller.


40
Chap. III.
KANAGAWA.
CHAPTEK III.
Town of Kanagawa — The Imperial highway — Travellers upon it —
Princes —- Pack-horses — Mendicant priests — Blind men — Beggars,
&c. — Visit to the temple of Bokengee — The umhrella pine-tree —
Sintoo temples — Scenery — Thatched roofs — Valuable elm —
The fanner and his chrysanthemums—Torn) — His one fault —
Temple of To-rin-gee— Scenery by the way —Thujopsis dolabrata
— Farm-houses — Tea-plant — Fruit-trees — Yedo vine — Veget-
ables— Trees and shrubs of the district—The male aucuba —
Geological features.
The port of Kanagawa, named in the treaty as the
location of foreigners, is situated on the northern
side of a deep bay or inlet; Yokuhama being
placed on its southern shore. The consuls of the
different Treaty powers were living in temples on
the Kanagawa side at the time of my arrival; and
as an old friend of mine, Mr. Jose Loureira, the
manager for Messrs. Dent and Co., of China, who
was also consul for Portugal and France, was
residing there, he kindly offered me quarters in his
temple during my stay. Nothing could have
suited me better than tins arrangement. There
was plenty of room, both in the house and in the
garden, for any collections of natural history which
I might get together; and I was on the highway
to Yedo, and in the midst of a most fertile and
interesting country.


Chap. III.
11
KANAGAWA.
Kanagawa is a long narrow town stretching for
several miles along the shore of the bay, and
having one principal street, and that the Tokaido
or great highway of Japan. The place is men-
tioned in the books of the old Dutch travellers,
and is said by them to contain about six hundred
houses, and to be twenty-four miles from the
capital. It is probably about this distance from
the Nipon Bas, or bridge in Yedo, from which
distances are measured to all parts of the empire;
but it is not more than sixteen or eighteen miles
from the western end of the city of Yedo. It con-
tains a great number of inns and tea-houses;
and here the Dutch generally sjept on the last
night of their journey overland from Nagasaki to
Yedo. On the following day they entered the
capital. The shops are generally poor and mean,
and contain few articles except* the mere neces-
saries of life. A little way back from the main
street, at intervals all the way along the town, are
Buddhist temples and cemeteries. These temples
are often found in the most charming situations,
and they are the finest and most substantial build-
ings in Kanagawa. In some instances they are sur-
rounded with pretty gardens, containing specimens
of the favourite flowers of the country. It is in
some of these temples that the consuls of the
Treaty powers have been located. The good priests
do not object to find quarters of an inferior kind
both for themselves and for their gods, providing
they are well paid for their trouble in turning out.


42
Chap. 111.
THE IMPERIAL HIGHWAY.
The Tokaida, or great highway of the country,
is thronged all day long with people going to or
returning from the capital. Every now and then
a long train of the servants and armed retainers of
one of the Daimios—lords or princes of the em-
pire—may be seen covering the road for miles.
It is not unusual for a cortege of this kind to
occupy two or three hours in passing by. Men
run before and call upon the people to fall down
upon their knees to do honour to the great man,
nor do they call in vain. All the people on both
sides of the way drop down instantly on their
knees, and remain in this posture until the nori-
mon or palanquin of the prince has passed by.
A Daimios procession is made up in the following
manner :—First comes the prince himself in his
norimon, followed by his horse and retainers,
armed with swords, spears, and matchlocks; then
follow a number of coolies, each carrying two
lacquered boxes slung across his shoulder on a
bamboo pole. After these again there is an-
other norimon, with an official of some kind;
then more coolies with boxes, more retainers, and
so on. The number of the followers is often very
large, and depends upon and is regulated by the
wealth and rank of the Daimio.
Kaempfer informs us "that it is the duty of the
princes and lords of the empire, as also of the
governors of imperial cities and crown lands, to
go to court once a year to pay their homage and
respect. They are attended, going and returning,








Chap. III.
43
PROCESSIONS.
by their whole court, and travel with a pomp and
magnificence, becoming as well their own quality
and riches as the majesty of the powerful monarch
whom they are going to see. The train of some
of the most eminent fills up the road for some
days."
If two or more of these Daimios should chance
to be travelling the same road, at the same time,
they would prove a great hindrance to one another,
particularly if they should happen to meet at the
same post-house or village. This is avoided by
giving timely notice, and by engaging the inns
and post-houses a month or six weeks beforehand.
The time of their intended arrival is also notified
in all the cities, villages, and hamlets, by putting
up small boards on high poles of bamboo, signify-
ing in a few characters what day of the month
such and such a lord will be at that place to dine
and sleep there.
When the retinue of the great man has passed
by, the stream of every-day life flows on along the
great Tokaido as before. No carts are used on
this part of the road. Everything is carried on
pack-horses, and these are passing along the road
in great numbers all day long. Each horse is
loaded with a pile of boxes and packages—a for-
midable size oftentimes, surmounted by a man in
a large broad-brimmed straw hat, who, from his
exalted position, is guiding the movements of his
horse. Generally, however, when passing through
towns, the horses are led by the drivers. In addi-


-14
Chap III.
LOADED PACK-HORSE.
tion to the huge pile of packages, it is not unusual
for a little family, consisting of the mother and
children, to be housed amongst them. On one
occasion, as two foreigners of my acquaintance were
out riding in the country, one of their horses shied,
and, coming in contact with a loaded pack-horse,
its burden came tumbling off, and was scattered
over the road. On stopping to render the driver
some assistance in reloading his horse, my friends
were horrified to find a whole family scrambling
about amongst the packages, amongst which they
had been snugly stowed away.

Packhorse, with grass Bbws.
Besides the processions, pack-horses, and palan-
quins, the pedestrians on the Tokaido demand our


Chap. III. PEDESTRIANS ON TOE TOKAIDO. 45
attention. Some are crowned with queer-looking
broad-brimmed straw hats; others have napkins
tied round their heads, and their hats slung behind
their backs, only to be used when it rains or when
the sun's rays are disagreeably powerful; while
others again have the head bare and shaven in
front, with the little pigtail brought forward and
tied down upon the crown. Mendicant priests are
met with, chanting prayers at every door, jingling
some rings on the top of a tall staff, and begging
for alms for the support of themselves and their
temples. These are most independent-looking fel-
lows, and seem to think themselves conferring a
favour rather than receiving one. I observed that
they were rarely refused alms by the people,
although the same priests came round almost daily.
To me the prayer seemed to be always the same—
namely, iiam-nam-narn; sometimes sung in a low
key, and sometimes in a high one. When the little
copper cash—the coin of the country—was thrown
into the tray of the priest, he gave one more
prayer, apparently for the charity he had received,
jingled his rings, and then went on to the next
door. Blind men are also common, who give
notice of their approach by making a peculiar
sound upon a reed. These men generally get
their living by shampooing their more fortunate
brethren who can see. Every now and then a
group of sturdy beggars, each having an old straw
mat thrown across his shoulders, come into the
stream which flows along this great highway.


46
Chap. III.
INQUIRY FOH TEMPLES.
Then there is the flower-dealer, with his basket of
pretty flowers, endeavouring to entice the ladies
to purchase them for the decoration of their hair;
or with his branches of "skimmi" (lllicium ani-
satum), and other evergreens, which are largely
used to ornament the tombs of the dead.
All day long, and during a great part of the
night too, this continual living stream flows to and
from the great capital of Japan along the imperial
highway. It forms a panorama of no common
kind, and is certainly one of the great sights of the
empire. The blind travellers, of whom there are
a great number, are said to prefer travelling by
night when the road is less crowded, as the light of
day makes no difference to them.
Having settled down for a time in Kanagawa, I
now made daily excursions to different parts of the
surrounding country. I was fortunate in making
the acquaintance of the Rev. S. W. Brown, a mis-
sionary connected with the Dutch Reformed Church,
United States, and of Dr. Hepburn, a medical mis-
sionary, formerly of Amoy, in China. They were
living in some temples a short distance from where
I was lodging; and as they had been some time
in Japan, they were able to give me much valuable
information.
My first question was, whether there were any
large Buddhist temples in this part of Japan, similar
to those I had been in the habit of visiting in China.
My reason for wishing to get information on this
head was the fact that, wherever Buddhist temples






i mi.1.11.i a PINE (SciadfipitytvertidUata).
Page 47.


Chap. III.
47
THE UMBRELLA PINE.
and Buddhist priests are found, there the timber is
preserved on the hill-sides; and many of the rare
trees of the country are sure to "be met with adorn-
ing some of the courts of their temples. Mr. Brown
informed me that there was a large monastery a
short distance up one of the valleys, and kindly
consented to accompany me thither. Our road led
us up a beautiful and fertile valley, having low
wooded hills on each side, and a little stream of
pure water running down towards the sea, water-
ing and fertilizing the rice-fields on its way. It
was now the beginning of November, and the crops
were yellow and nearly ready for the reaping-hook
of the husbandman. It was a glorious autumnal
day, the sun was shining above our heads in a clear
sky, the air was cool, and everything around us
was most enjoyable.
A walk of two or three miles brought us to the
temple of Bokengee. A broad path led up the
hill-side to the main entrance of the temple. Various
ornamental trees, some of great size and beauty,
stood near the gateway. Just inside and in front
of one of the principal temples, I was delighted to
meet with a beautiful new pine, called Sciadopitys
verticillata, the umbrella pine, or "Ko-ya maki"
—that is, "the maki of Mount Ko-ya"—of the
Japanese. A branch of this fine tree is figured
and described in Dr. Siebold's 'Flora Japonica ;'
but a great mistake is made as regards its size.
Siebold states that it forms an evergreen tree, for
the most part twelve to fifteen feet high. On the


48
Chap. III.
TEMPLE OF BOKENGEE.
contrary, the specimens met with in the vicinity of
Kanagawa and Yedo were in many instances fully
one hundred feet in height. However, as Siebold
says that "he saw it cultivated in gardens," he
probably had no opportunity of seeing a full-grown
specimen. It is a tree of great beauty and interest.
It has broad leaves of a deep green colour, arranged
in whorls, each somewhat like a parasol, and is
quite unlike any other genus amongst conifers. In
general outline it is of a conical form, not spread-
ing, and the branches and leaves are so dense that
the stem is completely hidden from •the view. It is
impossible to say, until we have further experience,
whether this fine tree will prove hardy in our
English climate; but if it does so, it will be a very
great acquisition to our list of ornamental pines.
The principal hall or temple of Bokengee is not
remarkable either for its size or for its idols. But
the hill-side is covered with small detached build-
ings, which appear to be not only residences but
also seminaries for the Buddhist priesthood. These
houses are situated in the midst of pretty gardens,
each of which contains neat specimens, well culti-
vated, of the ornamental flowers of the country, and
is surrounded with hedges kept neatly clipped and
trimmed. The whole place is kept in the highest
order, the broad walks are daily swept, and not a
weed or dead leaf is to be seen anywhere.
At a higher elevation there are some large
temples, which seem to be kept always closed.
They are rather rough wooden buildings; but like


Chap. III. SCENERY. 49
all the other temples are beautifully thatched, and
the ground and walks near them clean and in per-
fect order. We did not observe any priests near
these temples; and they probably belong to the
sect of Sintoos or Sinsyu, the original national
religion of Japan, upon which Buddhism has been
engrafted in some extraordinary manner.
At the time of our visit to the monastery, the
riests seemed all to be engaged in study or in
prayer. Now and then the dull monotonous sound
of some one of them engaged with his devotions
fell upon our ears, but it soon ceased and all was
still again. The sun was shining, and his rays
streaming through the branches of the overhanging
trees; a solemn stillness seemed to reign around
us, and the whole place and scene reminded one of
a sabbath in the country at home.
There are many pleasant and shaded walks in
the woods about these temples. Taking one of the
paths which led up the hill, we wandered to the
summit and obtained some charming views. On
one<tfide we looked down on the roofs and gardens
of the temples, and our eyes wandered from them
over the valley to the richly-wooded hills beyond.
Turning to the westward, the mountains of Hakone
lay before us, with the beautiful Fusi-yama half-
covered with snow, and looking like the queen of
the mountain scenery. These were glorious views,
and will long remain vividly impressed upon my
memory.
Before quitting the monastery of Bokengee,
E


50
Chap. III.
THATCHED ROOFS.
we examined minutely the manner in which the
temples were built, and more particularly their
thatched roofs. The walls were formed of a
framework of wood nicely fitted and joined, but
apparently not very massive in construction. This
was rather extraordinary, owing to the great
thickness and weight of the framework of the
roof. No doubt, however, the sides were strong
enough to support the roof, heavy though it was.
All the roofs of the temples were thatched with a
reed common to the country, and never, in any
other part of the world, have I seen such beautiful
thatching. Indeed this is a subject of admiration
with every foreigner who visits Japan. On care-
fully examining the structure of one of these
buildings, one soon sees the principles on which it
is put up, and the reasons for its peculiar construc-
tion. Buildings such as we erect in England
would be very unsafe in a country like Japan,
where earthcpuakes are so common and so violent.
Hence the main part of a Japanese house is a sort
of skeleton framework; every beam is tied or
fastened to its neighbour; so that, when the earth
is convulsed by these fearful commotions, the
whole building may rock and sway together with-
out tumbling down. In order to render these
buildings more secure, it seems necessary to have
the roof of great strength and weight, and this
accounts for their heavy and massive structure.
In the woods of this part of Japan there is a
very fine elm-tree, called by the Japanese Keaki


Chap. III.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS.
(Ulmus keaki of Siebold). This is often used in
the formation of the strong beams which support
the roofs of these temples. The wood of this tree
is extremely handsome; and as all the framework
is fully exposed to view, this is, of course, a matter
of great importance.
On our way home we visited many of the little
farm-houses which are situated at short intervals
on the lower sides of the hills; each had its little
garden attached to it. In one of these gardens we
found a very fine collection of chrysanthemums.
I was most anxious to secure some of them for my
collections, but, thinking the farmer only cultivated
them for his pleasure, I did not like to offer him
money, nor did I care to beg. My scruples were
soon set at rest by the owner hinting that I might
have any of them I pleased by paying for them at
a certain rate. I need scarcely say we soon came
to terms, and in a very short space of time the
little farmer, with his flowers on his back, was
trudging behind us on our way to Kanagawa.
This was my first purchase in Japan, and I lost no
time in making the following note, namely, that
the Japanese were very much like their Chinese
friends over the water, and that no difficulty was
so great that it could not be overcome by a little
liberality.
My next object was to procure a native of this
part of the country to assist me with my collec-
tions, and more particularly to act as a guide. A
man named Tomi was recommended to me as a
E 2


Chap. III.
53
BAY OF YEDO.
More particularly I was desirous of procuring
seeds of the Sciadopitys, already described, of the
Thujopsis dolabrata, and of the different pines,
yews, and arborvitae.
One morning Tomi informed me he had found
out a temple in the country where there were
some fine trees of Thujopsis dolabrata. This was
good news; so we started off together to see the
trees, and if possible to procure some seeds. Our
road led us up a valley somewhat like that by
which I had gone to Bokengee. The scenery was
of the same beautiful character—fertile valleys
and richly wooded hills, which even at this time
of the year (November) had a green and summer-
like appearance, owing to the number of ever-
green trees and shrubs which are indigenous
to the country. Sometimes our road gradually
ascended, and carried us along the tops of the
hills, which here form a kind of table-land, the
whole of which is under cultivation. It is im-
possible for me to describe the beautiful views
that were continually presenting themselves as we
passed along. Looking seaward, the smooth
waters of the Bay of Yedo lay before us, dotted
all over with the little white sails of fishing-boats,
whose produce was to supply the market of that
populous capital. Strange ships, of another build
and rig, lay quietly at anchor abreast'of Yoku-
hama. Their tall masts and square yards pro-
claimed them to belong to the nations of the far
West. Looking inland, the view from the hill-


'A
TEMPLE OP TO-RIN-GEE. Chap. III.
tops was ever-changing but always interesting and
beautiful. Rice valleys, farmhouses, and temples
lay below us; beyond them were low lulls, then
valleys again, and so on, until the eye rested on a
sea of hills on the far-off horizon.
A walk of a few miles brought us to a little
temple nestled amongst some woods on a hill-side.
The name of this temple was To-rin-gee. A small
avenue of trees leads up from a rice valley to the
temple, and ends at a flight of stone steps. On
each side of the steps there is a grassy bank
covered with bushes of azalea, aucuba, and other
ornamental shrubs. Ascending the stone steps
we found ourselves on a level with the temple,
and in a pretty garden filled with flowers, and
kept in the most perfect order.
The temple of To-rin-gee is a small one, and has
only one priest and priestess to minister at its
altars. It is cleanly kept, the floors are covered
with mats, and many of the walls are ornamented
with pictures. Works of art are highly appreciated
by these people; and I afterwards, at their urgent
request, presented them with some pictures from
'Punch' and the 'Illustrated London News,'
with which they were highly pleased. The priest
and priestess received us most kindly, and, as they
appeared to be well acquainted with Tomi, we soon
found ourselves quite at home. The screens of the
little verandah were drawn, and we were invited
to seat ourselves on the clean mats that covered
the floor. Some delicious tea, made, in Chinese


Chap. 111.
55
THUJOPSIS DOLABRATA.
fashion, without milk or sugar, was set before us,
and proved very agreeable.
While we sipped our tea I had time to make
some observations on the surrounding scenery.
A quiet and secluded rice valley formed the fore-
ground to the picture; hills were on each side of
us and behind us, densely covered with trees of
many different kinds. Pines, evergreen oaks,
chesnuts, bamboos, and palms—the latter giving a
somewhat tropical character to the scenery—were
the most common species. Oh a hill-side to the
right of where we sat I observed a grove of the
beautiful Thujopsis dolabrata, which I had come to
look for.
A stillness, almost solemn, reigned amongst
these woods and temples, broken at times only by
the call of the cock pheasant, or the rich clear note
of some songster of the woods. What a charming
place for a hermit, or for some one tired of the
busy scenes and oppressing cares of the world!
But I had not come here to meditate only; and,
therefore, setting down my teacup, I intimated to
the good priest that I wished to pay a closer visit
to the "Asnero," the Japanese name for Thujopsis
dolabrata. The old man kindly led the way. On
arriving at the grove of these trees we found an old
cemetery amongst them; and they had, no doubt,
been planted there, along with a number of Crypto-
merias, at the time the cemetery was first made.
The "Asnero" is a beautiful tree, straight,
symmetrical, attaining a height of 80 to 100 feet.


5(5
Chap. III.
CULTIVATED VALLEYS.
and having leaves of a fine dark-green colour.
They are imbricated, or overlap each other on the
stems, and look almost as if they had been plaited.
Beneath they are of a silvery hue, which gives
them a somewhat remarkable appearance when
blown about by the wind. We could observe some
bunches of seeds on some of the higher branches.
These were not very easily reached; but both
Tomi and I being good climbers, we pulled off our
shoes and mounted the trees, much to the astonish-
ment of our good friend the priest, who stood
quietly looking on at our proceedings.
The afternoon was far advanced before we had
completed our researches in the vicinity of To-
rin-gee, and therefore, bidding adieu to the priest
and priestess, we took our departure, choosing, on
our homeward journey, a different road from that
by which we came. As this road led us through a
number of highly-cultivated valleys, I noted the
state of the crops. The low rice-lands were now
covered with that grain, yellow, and nearly ready
for the sickle. On all the higher lands the young
wheat and barley crops were now (Nov. 10th)
above-ground. The seed is not sown broadcast as
with us, but in rows two feet three inches apart.
It is dropped in the drills by the hand, in patches,
each containing from twenty-five to thirty grains
of seed, and about a foot from each other in the
drill. The land is particularly clean, and the
whole cultivation resembles more that of a garden
than of a farm.






FAKM-HOCSES NEAR TZDO, TOH IRIS ON THE ROOFS.
Page 57.


Chap. III.
57
FRUIT-TREES —YEDO VINE.
Every now and then we came to a farm-house.
These are generally situated on the dry land at
the lower sides of the hills, having the wooded hills
behind them and the rice valleys in front. All
had thatched roofs like the temples I have already
noticed, although not built in such an expensive
and substantial way. In almost every instance a
species of iris. "Sho-bu," was growing thickly on
the flattened ridge of the roof, thus giving it a
rural and not unpleasing appearance.
On the road-sides, and also in the little gardens
of the farmers and cottagers, I frequently met with
the tea-plant in cultivation. It was not cultivated
largely in this part of the country, but, apparently,
only in sufficient quantities to supply the wants of
those around whose houses it was growing. Fruit-
trees of various kinds were common also on the
lower sides of these hills, and, generally, in the
vicinity of the villages. Pears, plums, oranges,
peaches, chesnuts, loquats, Salisburia nuts, and
Diospyros kaki, are the most common fruit-trees of
this district.
The vine in this part of the country produces
fruit of great excellence. The bunches are of a
medium size, the berries of a brownish colour, thin-
skinned, and the flavour is all that can be desired.
This grape may be valued in England, where we
have so many fine kinds, and most certainly will
be highly prized in the United States of America.
A few years ago I was travelling from Malta to
Grand Cairo, in company with Mr. Bryant the


58
Chap. III.
FOREST-TREES.
celebrated American poet, and a genuine lover ot
horticultural pursuits. This gentleman informed
me that, owing to some cause, our European vines
did not succeed very well on the other side of the
Atlantic, and suggested the importance of in-
troducing varieties from China, where the climate,
as regards extremes of heat and cold, is much like
that of the United States. I had never met with
what I consider a really good variety of grape in
China, and therefore have not been able to act on
Mr. Bryant's suggestion. At last, however, we
had here a subject for the experiment; and I urged
its importance on Dr. Hall, of Yokuhama, who is
an American citizen, and who has already intro-
duced a number of plants into his country from
China. He entered warmly into the matter, and
no doubt will accomplish the object in view.
The winter vegetables met with were carrots,
onions of several kinds, "lobbo " (a kind of radish),
"gobbo" (Arctium gobbo), nelumbium roots, lily
roots, turnips, ginger, Scirpus tuberosus, Arum
esculentum, and yams.
Many of the forest-trees of this district are
identical with those found about Nagasaki, which
I have already noticed. The largest snd most
useful seem to be such as Pinus Massoniana,
P. densifiora, Abies Jirma, Rethwspora pisifera,
R. obtusa, and Cryptorneria japonica; the latter
attains a very great size, and seems peculiarly
at home. I have already mentioned Thujopsis
dolabrata and Sciadopitys verticUlata. The maiden-


Chap. III.
5'J
SHRUBS.
hair tree {Salisburia adiantifolia) is common about
all the temjjles, and attains a great size. Here,
as in China, the natives are very fond of its
fruit, known in the Japanese shops by the name
of " Gingko," and in China as "Pak-o " or white-
fruit. Evergreen oaks, of several species, are com-
mon in the woods over all this part of Japan.
They attain a goodly size, and are most orna-
mental trees. Chesnuts, of several kinds, are also
common; the leaves of one species ( Castania japo-
nica) are used to feed a kind of silkworm. Acers
or maples are also common trees; many of the
leaves of these are beautifully marked with various
colours, and almost all of them take on deep colours
as they ripen in the autumn, and produce a most
beautiful and striking appearance upon the land-
scape. But the elm already mentioned (Ulmus
keaki) is perhaps the most valuable timber-tree in
Japan. It was introduced into Europe, by Dr. Sie-
bold, some years ago, but I have not heard whether
or not it is suitable to our English climate.
Amongst shrubs a species of Weigela was com-
mon, which at first I supposed to be the W.japonica
of Thunberg, but it now proves to be W. grandi-
Jlora. It is covered with flowers during the summer
months, and is really very ornamental. Osmanthus
aquifolius, covered with sweet-scented white flowers,
was also met with. It belongs to Oleacece (the olive
tribe), and is a fine ornamental evergreen bush.
In the gardens there is a variety with variegated
leaves, looking somewhat like the variegated holly.


GO
Ciiaf. III.
THE MALE AUOUBA.
This is a charming shrub, and if it proves hardy
in our climate will be a great favourite. A new
species of Aucuba, not variegated like the one in
English gardens, but having leaves of the deepest
and most glossy green, was found common in the
shady parts of the woods and hedges, and has now
been introduced into England. Asa fine evergreen
bush it will be greatly prized; and, in addition to
this, it produces a profusion of crimson berries
nearly as large as olives, which hang on all the
winter and spring, like the holly-berries of our
own country.
One of my objects in visiting Japan was to
procure the male variety of the common Aucidxt
japonica of our gardens. This is perhaps the most
hardy and useful exotic evergreen shrub we pos-
sess. It lives uninjured through our coldest win-
ters, and thrives better than anything else in the
smoke of our large towns. Hence it is met with
everywhere, and is one of the most common plants
in the parks, squares, and houses of London; but
no one in this country has ever seen it covered
with a profusion of crimson berries, as it is met
with in Japan. It belongs to a class of plants
which have the male and female flowers produced
on different individuals. Curiously enough, all the
plants in Europe were females, and hence the ab-
sence of fruiting specimens. On my arrival in
Japan I lost no time in looking out for the male of
this interesting species. I found it at last in the
garden of Dr. Hall at Yokuhama, who has also a


Chap. III.
Gl
GEOLOGICAL FEATURES.
very interesting collection of the plants of Japan,
and to whom I am indebted for much valuable in-
formation and assistance. This plant was sent
home in a Wardian case, and I am happy to say it
reached England in good health, and is now in the
nursery of Mr. Standish at Bagshot. I look for-
ward with much interest to the effects of this intro-
duction. Let my readers picture to themselves
all the aucubas which decorate our windows and
gardens, covered, during the winter and spring
months, with a profusion of crimson berries. Such
a result, and it is not an improbable one, would of
itself be worth a journey all the way from England
to Japan.
The geological formation of this part of the
country differs entirely from that about Nagasaki.
The latter bears a striking resemblance to the hilly
part of China in the same latitude ; that is, the upper
sides of the hills are generally barren, with rocks of
clay-slate and granite protruding in all directions.
About Yedo we meet with quite a different forma-
tion. (I have already described the substrata as
exhibited by the sea-cliffs at Yokuhama.) The
country inland consists of hill and valley ; and with
the exception of the celebrated mountain named
Fusi-yama, and some others in its vicinity, the hills
are only a few hundred feet above the level of the
sea. The soil in the valleys, in which rice is the
staple summer crop, is of a blackish-brown colour,
almost entirely composed of vegetable matter, and
resembles what we meet with in a peat-bog in


02
Chap. III.
GEOLOGICAL FEATURES.
England. Like that land it springs beneath the
feet when one walks over it. The sloping sides of
the hills are covered with trees and brushwood, the
latter oftentimes being apparently of little value.
Passing upwards through the belt of trees and
brushwood, we next reach the tops of the hills.
These are all comparatively flat, and thus a kind of
table-land is the result. The soil of this table-land is
exactly similar to that found in the marshy valleys
below, that is, it is a soil closely resembling what is
found in peat-bogs. Scarcely a stone or rock of any
kind is met with, either in the valleys, on the hill-
sides, or on the table-land on the summits. A casual
observer, on examining this black and apparently
rich-looking soil, would think it very fertile, and
capable of producing large crops; but in reality it
is not so fertile as it looks, and foreigners generally
remark on the little flavour the vegetables have
which are grown on it.
How this peculiar formation was originally pro-
duced I am unable to explain. Whether this part
of Japan was at some early period a flat peat-moss,
and these hills formed by one of those fearful earth-
quakes for which the country is still famous, and
which, according to tradition, forced up Fusi-yama
in a single night to the height of more than 14,000
feet, I must leave to geologists to determine.


Chap. IV.
63
JOURNEY TO YEDO.
CHAPTER IV.
Journey from Kanagawa to Yedo — Native body-guard — The Tokaido
— Civility of the people — Beggars by the wayside — Tea-houses —
Kawasaky — liiver Loga — " Mansion of Plum-trees" — The ladies'
platform — Hostess and waiting-maids — Japanese and Chinese
ladies compared — Tea-gardens — Sinagawa — English Legation —
Hospitality of Mr. Aloock — Large cemetery — Garden and trees —
The Yakoneens.
I gladly availed myself of an invitation from his
Excellency Mr. Alcock to visit Yedo, and made
preparations to start for that city on the 13th of
November.- On these occasions the stranger is
always accompanied by mounted Yakoneens, or
Government officers, who are in fact the police of
the country. Their rank, however, seems of a
much higher grade than that of such persons in
Europe, and they are treated with marked respect
by all classes of the natives, who appear to stand
greatly in awe of them. These officers are armed,
each having two swords; and they are supposed to
guard the foreigner in case of attack or insult by
the way.
As we rode out of the courtyard of Mr. Loureira's
house, I could not help smiling at the queer-looking
individuals who came on behind me. Each of them
wore a round, broad-brimmed straw hat, and as the


64
Chap. IV.
THE TOKAIBO.
day was wet they had loose rain-cloaks over their
dresses. Their two swords, which were fixed in
their belts at an angle of forty-five degrees, made
their dresses stick out behind; and as we trotted
or galloped along the road, they had a curious fly-
away sort of appearance. As a general rule, they
are but indifferent horsemen.
Our road—the Tokaido, or Imperial highway
already mentioned—led us to the eastward, along
the shores of the Bay of Yedo. Small shops, tea-
houses, sheds for the accommodation of travellers,
and gardens, lined each side of the way. Now
and then we came to an open space with trees
planted in the form of an avenue. These- were
chiefly of such species as Cryptomeria japonica,
Pinus Massoniana, Celiis Orientalis, and Ulmus
keaki. The glimpses which were obtained, from
time to time, through these trees and across the
gardens behind them, were very beautiful. On
the left, at a little distance, the view was bounded
by some low hills of irregular form, crowned with
trees and brushwood; while on the right the
smooth waters of the Bay of Yedo were spread out
before us, here and there studded with the white
sails of fishing-boats.
The people along the road were perfectly civil
and respectful. "Aiiata Ohio," or " Good morning,
sir," was a common salutation. Kaampfer informs
us that in his time "multitudes of beggars crowded
the roads in all parte of the empire, but particularly
on the so much frequented Tokaido." Some of the


Chap. IV. TEA-HOUSES. 65
members of Lord Elgin's embassy, if I remember
right, seem to doubt the truth of this, as they did
not meet with any on the occasion of their visit to
Kawasaky; but on this occasion beggars were pro-
bably kept out of the way by the authorities.
Truth compels me to state that at the present day,
as in the days of Ksempfer, the beggars in Japan
are numerous and importunate. As I rode along
the road, there were many who "sat by the way-
side begging." These were "the maimed, the
halt, the lame, and the blind," who, as I passed by,
prostrated themselves on the ground and asked for
alms.
Tea-houses for the refreshment and accommoda-
tion of travellers formed the most remarkable fea-
ture on the road, and were met with at every few
hundred yards. These buildings, like the shops,
are perfectly open in front, and have the floors
slightly raised and covered with mats, on which
customers squatted and took refreshment. The
cooking apparatus was always fully exposed to
view, with its necessary appendages, such as pots,
kettles, teacups, and basins. On approaching one
of these tea-houses some pretty young ladies met us
in the middle of the road with a tray on which
were placed sundry cups of tea of very good qua-
lity. This they begged us to partake of to refresh
us and help us on our journey. When about six
miles from Kanagawa we arrived at one of these
tea-houses which was rather larger than usual.
Here it seemed to be the duty or privilege of the
F


66
Chap. IV.
KAWASAKY.
landlord to provide water for the horses of tra-
vellers and Government officials, and consequently
we found a man ready with a pail of water for our
horses. It is customary to leave a small present
in the coin of the country in return for these
civilities.
With the exception of a few hundred yards here
and there, the whole road from Kanagawa to Yedo
is lined on each side with houses. Now and then
the single row expands into a village or town of
considerable size, teeming with a dense population.
One-of these, named Kawasaky, stands about seven
or eight miles east from Kanagawa. It seemed a
busy market-town. The road which formed the
main street was lined with shops and tea-houses,
and crowded with people passing to and fro,
buying and selling, or lolling about looking on.
Travellers too were numerous, who were either
going to the capital or returning from it on the
great highway. Now and then we met a long
train of coolies and armed men in the wake of a
norimon containing an official or person of rank.
The coolies were carrying the luggage, and the
retainers were in attendance probably as much for
show as for the protection of their master.
When we arrived at the further end of Kawa-
saky we were again politely stopped by mine host
of the "Hotel of Ten Thousand Centuries," a tea-
house of the first class, who insisted on our entering
his establishment for refreshment to ourselves and
our good steeds. His invitation was seconded by


Chap. IV.
67
RIVER LOG A.
three or four Japanese beauties, but we were un-
gallant enough this time to decline the hospitality,
as it was unnecessary, and as these frequent stop-
pages were rather expensive.
At this place the river Loga intersects the main
road. According to treaty, foreigners are not
allowed to pass further than this point in the direc-
tion of-the capital, unless they belong to the Lega-
tions of those nations who have treaties with Japan.
Special permissions are however granted by the dif-
ferent ministers, with the sanction of the Japanese
Government. In all other directions from Kana-
gawa, except this one, foreigners are allowed to
travel to the distance of ten ri, or about twenty-five
miles. It will be seen, therefore, that there is a
large tract of country available either for recrea-
tion or for researches in natural history, geology,
and other sciences.
Dismounting from our horses, we crossed the
Loga in flat-bottomed boats, the horses being put
into one, and the yakoneens and myself going in
another. This river is but a small stream of one
hundred feet in width, and quite shallow. Our
boats were guided and propelled across by long
bamboo poles. When we had crossed the river we
rode onwards in the direction of the capital. For
some distance the road, the houses, and other ob-
jects, were just a repetition of what I have already
described. After riding about two miles we arrived
at a place called Omora, where there is a celebrated
tea-house named Mae-yaski, which being interpreted
f 2


68
Chap. IV.
MANSION OF PLUM-TREES.
means the "Mansion of Plum-trees." Here we
were met by mine host and some pretty damsels,
and invited to partake of the usual refreshment.
The " Mansion of Plum-trees" is one of the best
of the class to which it belongs. It is arranged in
the usual style,—that is, it has a number of apart-
ments separated from each other by sliding doors,
and raised floors covered with mats kept scrupu-
lously clean, upon which the natives sit down to
eat their meals and drink tea or saki. In front of
the door there is a matted platform, raised about
a foot from the ground and covered overhead.
Ladies travelling in norimons or kangos, when
about to stop at the tea-house, are brought along-
side of this platform, the bearers give the convey-
ance a tilt on one side, and the fair ones are literally
emptied out upon the stage. They seem quite ac-
customed to this treatment, and immediately gather
themselves up in the most coquettish way pos-
sible, and assume the squatting posture common in
Japan.
Whether we really needed refreshment, or whe-
ther we could not resist the laughing-faced damsels
above mentioned, is not of much moment to the
general reader; one thing is certain, that somehow
or other we found ourselves within the "Man-
sion of Plum-trees," surrounded by pretty, good-
humoured girls, and sipping a cup of fragrant tea.
One lady, not particularly young, and whom I took
for the hostess, had adorned herself by pulling out
her eyebrows and blackening her teeth, which cer-


Chap. IV.
09
WAITING-MAIDS.
tainly in my opinion did not improve her appear-
ance. However, there is no accounting for taste;
and certainly our own taste, in many respects, is
not so pure as to warrant us in "throwing the first
stone" at the Japanese. The young girls who
were in attendance upon me had glittering white
teeth, and their lips stained with a dark crimson
dye. The Japanese innkeeper always secures the
prettiest girls for his waiting-maids, reminding me
in this respect of our own publicans and their bar-
maids.
These inns and their waiting-maids seem to have
been much the same in the days of Keempfer, in
the year 1690, as I found them in 1860. "Nor
must I forget," he says, "to take notice of the
numberless wenches the great and small inns, and
the tea-booths and cook-shops, in villages and ham-
lets, are furnished withal. About noon, when they
have done dressing and painting themselves, they
make their appearance, standing under the doors
of the house, or sitting upon the small gallery
around it, whence, with a smiling countenance and
good words, they invite the travelling troops that
pass by to call in at their inn, preferable to others.
In some places, where there are several inns stand-
ing near one another, they make, with their chat-
tering and rattling, no inconsiderable noise, and
prove not a little troublesome."
The Japanese ladies differ much from those of
China in their manners and customs. It is etiquette
with the latter to run away the moment they see


70
Chap. IV.
GARDEN OF THE MANSION.
the face of a foreigner; but the Japanese, on the
contrary, do not show the slightest diffidence or
fear of us. In these tea-houses they come up with
smiling faces, crowd around you, examine your
clothes, and have even learnt to shake hands!
Although in manners they are much more free
than the Chinese, I am not aware they are a whit
less moral than their shy sisters on the other side
of the water.
In addition to tea, my fair waiting-maids brought
a tray containing cakes, sweetmeats of various
kinds, and a number of hard-boiled eggs, which
one of them kept cracking and peeling, and pressing
upon me. As I was seated in the midst of my
good-humoured entertainers, the scene must have
been highly amusing to a looker-on, and would, I
doubt not, have made a capital photograph.
My yakoneens were in a different room, and,
apparently, had good appetites, and were making
good use of their time. Leaving them to finish
their meal, I took the opportunity of having a
stroll through the large garden in front of the
"Mansion." As its name implied, it contained a
large number of flowering plum-trees, planted in
groups and in avenues. Little lakes or ponds, of
irregular and pleasing forms, were in the centre of
the garden, in which gold fish and tortoises were
swimming about in perfect harmony. These little
lakes were spanned by rustic bridges, and sur-
rounded with artificial rockwork, in which ferns
and dwarf shrubs were planted. Altogether the


Chap. IV.
71
SINAGAWA.
place was pretty and enjoyable, even at this time
of the year. In spring or summer, when the trees
are in full bloom, or covered with leaves, the
"Mansion of Plum-trees " must be a charming place.
Bidding a polite adieu to our fair entertainers,
we mounted our horses and continued our journey
along the great highway. For the last three or
four miles of the journey, the road had taken a
direction more inland, and we had lost sight of the
bay. Now, however, the bay came again into
view, and the road led along its banks as before.
Gradually it became more crowded with people,
the buildings and shops appeared of a better
class, and everything indicated our near approach
to the imperial city.
We now entered the suburb of Sinagawa, a
place often mentioned in the writings of the Dutch
travellers. On our left we observed many fine
houses and temples, and some stately trees; while
on our right the upper part of the bay lay spread
out to our view. Before us lay the great city,
encircling the head of the bay in the form of a
crescent, and stretching away almost to the distant
horizon. Far out in the bay a square-rigged vessel
of war was lying at anchor; it proved to be the
United States frigate 'Niagara,' which had just
brought home the Japanese ambassadors from their
visit to America. A crowd of small trading vessels
and fishing boats lay in the shallow water near the
shore; and a chain of batteries commanded the
anchorage.


72
Chap. IV.
BRITISH LEGATION.
While I was quietly observing all these objects,
one of my yakoneens, who was riding ahead to
show the way, suddenly turned in to the left and
intimated that we had arrived at the residence of
the English Minister. I found his Excellency at
home; he received me most kindly, introduced me
to the gentlemen of the Embassy, and gave me
quarters in the Legation.
The British Legation is located in a large temple,
or rather in buildings adjoining, such as are at-
tached to nearly all the large temples in Japan,
and which are probably intended to receive visitors,
or as seminaries for the Buddhist priesthood. It
stands at the head of a little valley, backed behind
and on each side by low richly-wooded hills, some-
what in the form of a horse-shoe, and open in front
to the Bay of Yedo. The situation is exceedingly
picturesque and beautiful. A fine wide avenue,
some 200 yards in length, leads up from the bay
to the residence of the English Minister. Orna-
mental gateways stretch over the avenue and give
it a pretty appearance, and here and there I
observed some large examples of Pinus Massoniana,
Cryptomeria japonica, Salisburia adiantifolia, Podo-
carpus macrophyllus, camellias, &c.
On the west side of the temple there is a large
cemetery covered with many thousands of stone
tombs, some of them apparently of great age.
One of these cemeteries is attached to almost every
temple about Yedo, but this is the largest that
came under my observation. They seem, in almost


Chap. IV.
GARDEN OP THE LEGATION.
all instances, to be placed on the west side of the
temples. The Japanese, like their neighbours in
China, pay great attention to the graves of their
dead. They frequently visit them, and place
branches of skimmi (lllicium anisatum), laurels,
and other evergreens, in bamboo tubes in front of
the stones. When these branches wither they
remove them and replace them by others. The
trade of collecting and selling these branches must
be one of considerable magnitude in Japan; they
are exposed, in large quantities, for sale in all the
cities and villages; one is continually meeting with
people carrying them in the streets; and they seem
always fresh upon the graves, showing that they
are frequently replaced.
A garden situated in the rear of the build-
ings of the Legation, although small in extent, is
one of the most charming little spots I ever be-
held. The circular hill already noticed rises up
behind, and forms a background to the picture:
this hill is richly covered with trees of great size
and beauty; particularly some fine evergreen oaks,
seeds of which Mr. Alcock has sent to Kew. On
the lower part of the hill there is some pretty rock-
work covered with maples, azaleas, camellias, and
other plants, with a species of plum, whose branches
hung down like a weeping willow. At the base
there is a small lake of irregular and pleasing form,
extending the whole width of the garden, and
between this and the temple there is a little lawn
which gives a quiet and pleasing finish to the whole.


74
Chap. IV.
GARDEN OF THE LEGATION.
To complete the picture as it appeared to me:
it was a bright autumnal day; an old maple-tree,
with blood-red leaves, was hanging over the lake
at one end—an azalea, with leaves of a glowing
crimson, was seen in groups at the other; patches
of red, purple, and of almost every hue, met the
eye in all directions, and produced a striking effect,
backed as they were by the deep green of the
camellia, evergreen oak, and pine. As the large
trees in the background threw a shade over some
parts of the garden, while the sun's rays streamed
through other parts, or shone full upon the varied
colours, the effect produced made one almost fancy
oneself in some fairy land. Little walks led through
amongst the bushes over the hill-side, where the
different plants can be minutely examined, and
where shade can be had from the fierce rays of the
sun. A fine avenue has been made on the top
of the eastern spur, extending down towards the
bay, whence a delightful view to seaward can be
obtained, and where exercise and the cool morning
and evening breezes can be enjoyed, without the
nuisance of being followed by the officials of the
Japanese Government, an annoyance to which
every one has to submit if he moves out of the
grounds of the temple.
The garden I have been describing is purely
Japanese, Mr. Alcock having found it much in the
same state as I saw it. The French Consul-General,
and his able secretary the Abbe Gerard, have each
a garden, which they found attached to the temples


Cuap. IV.
75
THE YAKONEENS.
given up to them as their places of residence.
These gardens are all remarkable for azaleas of
extraordinary size, which have been kept carefully
clipped; and if they are covered with flowers in
the spring, as I believe they are, they must be
indeed charming objects to look upon.
The gardens and grounds of the Legation are
surrounded by a high wooden fence, and the gates
are guarded by armed yakoneens. If any of the
members of the Legation or their visitors pass out
of this enclosure, they are immediately followed by
some of these men. If the foreigner prefers a walk
they walk after him; or if he goes out on horse-
back they follow in the same style. For some time
this proceeding was thought to be quite un-
necessary, and it was supposed that these men
acted merely as spies, to report all the doings of
the foreigners. The Japanese Government have
always maintained that the system was necessary
for our protection; and although it has no doubt
signally failed in some instances, as for example,
in the case of poor Mr. Heuskin the American
interpreter, yet I have no doubt in my own mind
that many lives have been saved by means of it.
In so far as the Government is concerned, I believe
there is every desire to prevent disturbances with
foreigners, and this is one of the means it uses to
accomplish that object.
At the time of my visit there were an unusually
large number of foreigners living in Yedo. In
addition to the members of the English, French,


7(i
Chap. IV.
THE YAKONEENS.
and American Legations, whose countries had
already made treaties with Japan, there was a
deputation from Prussia engaged in making a
treaty for that country, and a number of American
officers who had come out in the 'Niagara' with
the Japanese ambassadors. Everything was going
on quietly; and although a short time before
Mr. Alcock's servant—a Japanese—had been
murdered, and an attempt had been made upon
the life of a Frenchman in the service of the French
Consul-General, the impression was, that these
men were probably not altogether blameless, and
had brought such punishments upon themselves.
Be that as it may, no one seemed to have any
hesitation in moving about, and I thus had an
opportunity of seeing all the most remarkable parts
of the city, as well as many suburban places of
great interest. It is true that we were always
followed by the guard of yakoneens, but one had
only to fancy himself a person of great importance
—a prince or a noble in the far- East—and this
body-guard was easily endured. I found them
always perfectly civil, and often of great use in
showing me the right road.


Chap. V.
77
THE CITY OF YEDO.
CHAPTEK V.
The city of Yedo — Hill of the god Atango — Magnificent view of the
city from its summit — " Official quarter" — Broad streets—Castles
of the feudal princes— The inner circle—-Moats and massive walls
— Clumps of trees — No embrasure or guns visible— Use of the
moats and ramparts — Murder of the Regent or Gotiro—Fate of the
murderers — The Harikari — Castle of the Emperor — Krempfcr-s
description — " Belle Vue " — Population of Yedo — Size of the
city.
On the day after my arrival in Yedo Mr. Alcock
was good enough to invite me to accompany him
in a ride through some of the most interesting
parts of the city. The Legation is situated in the
south-west suburb, and the main portion of the
great city lies to the eastward from our starting
point. There was nothing to indicate to a stranger
the point where the western suburb ended and the
city commenced; indeed, as it has been justly ob-
served, " the suburb of Sinagawa merges into Yedo
much in the same way as Kensington straggles
into London." Taking then an easterly course, a
portion of our road led us through lanes fringed
with fields and gardens, and through streets some-
what resembling those of a country town in
England. During the first part of our route there
was nothing particularly striking to attract our


78
Chap. V.
HILL OF THE GOD ATANGO.
attention. Soon, however, we arrived at a spot of
great interest. This was a little hill, one of the
highest of the many hills which are dotted about
all over the city. Its name was Atango-yama,
which means the "Hill of the god Atango." On
its summit there is a temple erected to the idol,
and a number of arbours where visitors, who come
either for worship or for pleasure, can be supplied
with cups of tea.
Leaving our horses at the foot of the hill, we
ascended it by a long flight of stone steps, which
were laid from the base to the summit. When we
arrived at the top of the steps, we found ourselves
in front of the temple and its surrounding arbours.
Here we were waited upon by blooming damsels,
and invited to partake of sundry cups of hot tea.
But the temple, the arbours, and even our fair wait-
ing-maids, were for the time disregarded as we
gazed upon the vast and beautiful city which lay
below us spread out like a vast panorama. Until
now I had formed no adequate idea of the size of
the capital of Japan. Before leaving China I had
heard stories of its great size, and of its population
of two millions; but I confess I had great doubts
as to the truth of these reports, and thought it not
improbable that, both as to size and population,
the accounts of Yedo might be much exaggerated.
But now I looked upon the city with my own eyes,
and they confirmed all that I had been previously
told.
Looking back to the south-west over the wooded


Chap. V.
79
VIEW OF THE CITY OF YEDO.
suburb of Sinagawa from which we had just come,
and gradually and slowly carrying our eyes to the
south and on to the east, we saw the fair city of
Yedo extending for many miles along the shores of
the bay, in the form of a crescent or half-moon. It
was a beautiful autumnal afternoon, and very
pretty this queen of cities looked as she lay bask-
ing in the sun. The waters of the bay were smooth
as glass, and were studded here and there with the
white sails of fishing-boats and other native craft;
a few island batteries formed a breastwork for the
protection of the town; and far away in the dis-
tance some hills were dimly seen on the opposite
shores. Turning from the east towards the north,
we looked over an immense valley covered with
houses, temples, and gardens, and extending far
away almost to the horizon. A wide river, spanned
by four or five wooden bridges, ran through this
part of the town and emptied itself into the bay.
On the opposite side of a valley, some two miles-
wide and densely covered with houses, we saw the
palace of the Tycoon and the "official quarter" of
the city, encircled with massive stone walls and
deep moats. Outside of this there are miles of
wide straight streets and long substantial barn-
looking buildings, which are the town residences
of the feudal princes and their numerous retainers.
To the westward our view ranged over a vast
extent of city, having in the background a chain
of wooded hills, whose sloping sides were covered
with houses, temples, and trees. A large and


80
Chap. V.
RESIDENCES OF THE DAIMIOS.
populous portion of Yedo lies beyond these hills,
but that was now hidden from our view.
Such is the appearance which Yedo presents
when viewed from the summit of Atango-yama.
This hill now bears the modern title of " Grande
Vue," and well it deserves the name. After we
had enjoyed this magnificent view for some time,
we descended by the stone steps and resumed our
ride. Our road now skirted a hill clothed with
noble timber-trees and surrounded with walls.
This was the Imperial cemetery. A short distance
beyond this we crossed the first or outer moat, and
were then in the "official quarter," amongst the
residences of the Daimios and their retainers. Here
the streets are wide, straight, and cleanly kept, and
altogether have quite a different appearance from
those we had already passed through. Good drains
are carried down each side to take off the super-
fluous water. All we saw of the houses of the
Daimios was the outer walls, the grated windows,
and the massive-looking doors, many of them deco-
rated with the armorial bearings of their owners.
These buildings were low—generally two stories
high; their foundations and lower walls were
formed of massive stonework, and the upper part
of wood and chunam. Judging from the general
length of the outer street walls, the interior of these
places must be of great size; indeed such must
necessarily be the case, to enable them to accommo-
date the large number of retainers which these
princes always keep about them. As we rode along,






PLAN OF CENTRAL PORTION OF THE CITY OF YEDO.
E. Outer Moat
F- Ccinimorolal Quarter.
a. Tycoon ■ Palace noil UnruViis.
h. Residence! of the Puinilo*- each circular mark
rupreKenllnff the Symbol (Crest) of Owner.
('. Inner Moai of Tycoon's Palace.
I'. Sccnml Mont.
0. River Todojrawn, with which MoaU and >.->..-
coiuumnlcute.
I'ape M.


Chap. V. MOATS AND MASSIVE WALLS. 81
many of these retainers showed themselves at the
grated windows. It might be only fancy on my
part, but I thought I could discern little good-will
or friendly feeling towards ourselves in their coun-
tenances.
I have just stated that we crossed a bridge over
a deep moat before entering the Daimios' quarter.
In order to give an idea of the plan of this part of
the city, I may compare the moat to a rope loosely
coiled; the end of the outer coil dipping as it were
into the river, and supplying the whole with water.
It is not correct to say, as is sometimes said, that
there are three concentric circles, each surrounded
by a moat. The Tycoon's palace and the offices of
his ministers are situated in the centre of the coil,
while the outer and wider portion encircles the
mansions of the feudal princes.
The second or inner moat and enclosure was now
in view in front of us, with its houses and palaces
on rising ground. On the inner side of this
circling-moat there are high walls on the water's
edge formed of large blocks of stone, of a polygonal
form, and nicely fitted into each other without the
aid of lime or cement. This is a favourite mode of
building in Japan in all cases in which stone is
used. The plan is probably adopted in order to
render such structures more secure in a country like
this which is so subject to earthquakes. In some
places sloping banks of green turf rise steeply from
the edge of the moat, and are crowned at the top
with a massive wall. A landslip in these banks,
o


82 ^" I MURDER OF THE REGENT. Chap. V.
however, showed that the wall which apparently
crowned their summits had its foundation far below,
and that the banks themselves had been formed in
front of the wall. On many of these green banks
there are groups of juniper and pine trees, while
inside the wall itself tall specimens of the same
trees rear their lofty heads high above the ram-
parts. No embrasures or places for guns were
observed in these walls, although one would imagine
they had been erected for the purposes of defence.
Kaempfer, however, assigns another reason; he
says, "Yedo is not enclosed with a wall, no more
than other towns in Japan, but cut through by
many broad canals, with ramparts raised on both
sides, and planted at the top with rows of trees, not
so much for defence as to prevent the fires—which
happen here too frequently—from making too great
a havoc."
A few months previous to the time of my visit,
the Gotiro, or Regent of the Empire, had been
waylaid and murdered in open day, as he was
proceeding from his residence to his office in the
inner quarter. The scene of this tragedy was
pointed out to me. A writer in the 1 Edinburgh
Review' gives the following graphic account of
this horrid murder :—
"Within the second moated circle facing the
bay, the causeway leads over a gentle acclivity,
near the summit of which, lying a little back-
ward, is an imposing gateway, flanked on either
side with a range of buildings, which form the


Chap. V.
83
MURDER OF THE REGENT.
outer screens of large courtyards. Over the
gates, in copper metal, is the crest of the noble
owner — the chief of the house of Ikomono, in
which is vested the hereditary office of Regent,
whenever a minor fills the Tycoon's throne.
From the commanding position of this residence
a view is obtained of a long sweep of "the ram-
part; and midway the descent ends in a long
level line of road. Just at this point, not 500
yards distant, is one of the three bridges across
the moat, which leads into the inner enclosure,
where the castle of the Tycoon is situated. It
was about ten o'clock in the morning of the 24th
of March, while a storm of alternate sleet and
rain swept over the exposed road and open
space, offering little inducement to mere idlers
to be abroad, that a train was seen to emerge
from the Gotiro's residence. The appearance
of the cortege was sufficient to tell those familiar
with the habits and customs of the Japanese
that the Regent himself was in the midst, on his
way to the palace, where his daily duties called
him. Although the numbers were inconsider-
able, and all the attendants were enveloped in
their rain-proof cloaks of oiled paper, with great
circular hats of basket or lacquered ware tied to
their heads, yet the two standard-bearers bore
aloft at the end of their spears the black tuft of
feathers, distinctive of a Daimio, and always
marking his presence. A small company of
officers and personal attendants walk in front
o 2


84 MURDER OF THE REGENT. Chap. V.
and round the foremost norimon, while a troop
of inferior office-bearers follow, grooms with led
horses, extra norimon-bearers, baggage-porters
—for no officer, much less a Daimio, ever leaves
his house without a train of baggage—empty or
full, they are essential to his dignity. Then
there are umbrella-bearers—the servants of the
servants — along the line. The cortege slowly
wound its way down the hill, for the roads were
wet and muddy even on the high .ground, while
the bearers were blinded by the drifting sleet,
carefully excluded only from the noromons by
closed screens. Thus suspended in a sort of
cage, just large enough to permit a man to sit
cross-legged, the principal personage proceeded
on his way to the palace. Little, it would seem,
did either he or his men dream of possible
danger. How should they, indeed, on such a
spot, and for so exalted a personage? No augur
or soothsayer gave warning to beware of the
'Ides of March.' .... The edge of the
moat is gained. A still larger cortege of the
Prince of Kiu-siu, one of the royal brothers, was
already on the bridge, and passing through the
gate on the opposite side, while, coming up from
the causeway, at a few paces distant, was the
retinue of the second of these brothers, the
Prince of Owari. The Gotiro was thus between
them at the foot of the bridge, on the open
space formed by the making of a broad street,
which debouches on the bridge. A few strag-


Chap. V.
MURDER OF THE REGENT.
gling groups, enveloped in their oil-paper cloaks,
alone were near, when suddenly one of these
seeming idlers flung himself across the line of
march, immediately in front of the Regent's
norimon. The officers of his household, whose
place is on each side of him, rushed forward at
this unprecedented interruption — a fatal move,
which had evidently been anticipated, for their
place was instantly filled with armed men in
coats of mail, who seemed to have sprung from
the earth—a compact band of some .eighteen or
twenty men. With flashing swords and frightful
yells, blows were struck at all around, the
lightest of which severed men's hands from the
poles of the norimon, and cut down those who
did not fly. Deadly and brief was the struggle.
The unhappy officers and attendants, thus taken
by surprise, were hampered with their rain
gear, and many fell before they could draw a
sword to defend either themselves or their lord.
A few seconds must have done the work, so
more than one looker-on declared; and before
any thought of rescue seemed to have come to
the attendants and escorts of the two other
princes, both very near (if, indeed, they were
total strangers to what was passing), one of the
band was seen to dash along the causeway with
a gory trophy in his hand. Many had fallen in
the melee on both sides. Two of the assailants,
who were badly wounded, finding escape impos-
sible, it is said, stopped in their flight, and


80
Chap. V.
MURDER OF THE REGENT.
deliberately performed the Harikari,* to the
edification of their pursuers; for it seems to be
the law (so sacred is the rite, or right, which-
ever may be the proper reading) that no one
may be interrupted, even for the ends of justice.
These are held to be sufficiently secured by the
self-immolation of the criminal, however heinous
the offence; and it is a privilege to be denied to
no one entitled to wear two swords. Other
accounts say that their companions, as a last act
of friendship, despatched them to prevent- their
falling into the hands of the torturer. Eight
of the assailants were unaccounted for when all
was over; and the remnant of the Regent's
people, released from their deadly struggle, hur-
ried to the norimon to see how it fared with
their master in the brief interval, to find only a
headless trunk. The bleeding trophy carried
off had been the head of the Gotiro himself,
hacked off on the spot. But strangest of all
these startling incidents, it is further related
that two heads were found missing, and that
which was seen in the fugitive's hand was only
a lure to the pursuing party, while the true
trophy had been secreted on the person of
another, and was thus successfully carried off.
The decoy paid the penalty of his life. After
leading the chase through a first gateway down
the road, and dashing past the useless guard, he
was finally overtaken; the end for which he
* The act of suicide by ripping open the stomach.


Chap. V.
FATE OF THE MURDERERS. 87
had devoted himself having, however, as we
have seen, been accomplished. Whether this be
merely a popular version or the simple truth, it
serves to prove what is believed to be a likely
course of action; and how ready desperate men
are to sacrifice their lives for an object. The
officer in command of the guard, who allowed
his post to be forced, was ordered the next day
to perform the Harikari on the spot. The rest
of the story is soon told. All Yedo was thrown
into commotion. The wardgates were all closed;
the whole machinery of the government in spies,
police, and soldiers, was put in motion, and in a
few days it was generally believed the whole of
the eight missing were arrested, and in the hands
of the torturer. What revelations were wrung
from them, or whether they were enabled to resist
the utmost strain that could be put upon their
quivering flesh and nerve, remains shrouded in
mystery."
Riding onwards, and keeping the citadel on
our left,- we passed two or three bridges which
crossed the inner moat, and led into the palace
and offices of the ministers. These personages
and their servants may be seen daily going to
office about nine or ten o'clock in the morning,
and returning to their homes about four in the
afternoon, much like what occurs at our own
public offices. Some walk to office, some ride on
horseback, and others go in norimons. Almost
every man we met was armed with two swords.


88
CIhap. V.
CASTLE OF THE EMPEROR.
Now and then we met or passed a Daimio, or
official of rank, accompanied by his train of
retainers, armed with swords, spears, and match-
locks, and with the usual amount of luggage,
large umbrellas, led horses, and other signs of his
rank.
No foreign visitor to Yedo is allowed to enter
the sacred precincts of the inner enclosure which
we were now riding round. A short time before
this, a portion of the palace of the Emperor had
been burned down, and it was now being rebuilt.
Judging from the part of it which came under
my observation in the. distance, it did not seem
a very imposing structure. Kaempfer writes in
glowing terms of the palace of his day: "It had
a tower many stories high, adorned with roofs and
other curious ornaments, which make the whole
castle look, at a distance, magnificent beyond
expression, amazing the beholders, as do also the
many other beautiful bended roofs, with gilt
dragons at the top, which cover the rest of the
buildings within the castle." As this work, how-
ever, professes only to give the reader a descrip-
tion of what came under my own observation, I
must leave to others the description of the interior
of the Tycoon's castle.
We had approached the citadel on the south,
passed round it to the eastward, and were now
on a rising ground on the north. Here another
of those splendid views over the city and bay was
obtained. This point has been named "Belle


Chap. V. POPULATION OF YEDO. 89
Vue" by foreigners, and deservedly so. It would
be a mere repetition of what I saw from the " Hill
of Atango" to describe the scene which we now
again beheld. Suffice it to say, that a vast city,
bounded on one side by a beautiful bay, and on
the other by the far off horizon, lay spread out
beneath us. The land appeared studded all over
with gardens; undulating ground and little hills
were dotted about in every direction, crowned
with evergreen trees, such as oaks and pines, and,
although it was now far on in November, there
was nothing to indicate the winter time in Yedo.
The population of this fine city has been esti-
mated at about two millions of souls. The extent of
ground covered by Yedo, and the main parts of its
suburbs, has been stated by Ksempfer, on Japanese
authority, to be about sixteen English miles long,
twelve broad, and fifty in circumference. Judging
from a native map of the city now before me,
and from having ridden through it in all direc-
tions, I think the following is about its true size:
From the southern suburb of Sinagawa to the
north-eastern suburb the distance is about twelve
miles, and from east to west it is about eight miles.
Of course miles of extensive suburbs lie beyond
these points, but these must be looked upon as
being in the country and not in the town.
We could have lingered long on Mount "Belle
Vue," and gazed upon the beautiful panorama
which lay before us; but the last rays of an
autumnal sun reminded us that it was time to


90
Chap. V.
RETURN TO THE LEGATION.
return home. Having completed the circle of the
Tycoon's castle, we took a southerly course; and
winding our way through streets which sometimes
led us over little hills, sometimes through lanes
and gardens, we in due time reached the gates of
the British Legation.

A Yedo Gentleman, with Servant carrying Sword, and Custom-house Officer with Fan,


Chap. VI. EXCURSIONS ROUND YEDO.
ill
CHAPTER VI.
The country round Yedo — Hill and valley — Trees — Autumnal fo-
liage — Views of Fusi-yama — Cottages and farm-houses — Flowers
and vegetables — Signs of high civilization — Public baths — Beau-
tiful lanes and hedges — Avenues and groves — Civility of the
people — Dogs and their prejudices — Street dogs — Lapdogs —
Fire at the British legation — Mode of giving alarm — Organization
of Fire-brigade — Wretched engines — Presents from foreign govern-
ments— More suitable ones pointed out.
During my stay in Yedo I made many excursions
into the surrounding country — sometimes on
horseback, and at other times on foot — but
invariably accompanied with a guard of yako-
neens. If the reader will accompany me on one
of these excursions, I shall endeavour to show
him something of the country, as I have already
done of the town. Our road leads us to the
westward, and we are soon clear of the straggling
suburb of Sinagawa. The land is undulating in
its general features, and consists of a succession
of hills and valleys. The valleys are low and flat,
and capable of being irrigated by the streams
which flow down from the surrounding hills.
Rice is the staple crop of these low lands, and it
was now of a yellow hue and ready for the reap-
ing-hook of the farmer. The hills which encircle


!)2
Chap. VI.
VIEWS OV FUSI-YAMA.
the valleys are covered with brushwood and lofty
trees. Here the gigantic Cryptomeria japonica,
the noble pine, and the evergreen oak are pecu-
liarly at home. Clumps of bamboos and the palm
of the country (Chamcerops excelsa) give a sort of
tropical character to the scenery. The vivid hues
of the autumnal foliage are most striking, and
produce a wonderful and beautiful effect upon the
landscape. The sumach and various species of
maples have now put on their varied shades of
colour—yellow, red, and purple; the leaves of
the azalea are changing into a deep, glowing
crimson; and these masses of "all hues" con-
trast well with the green foliage of the oaks
and pines. As the eye wanders over these valleys
and hills, it rests at last on a conical mountain
in the background, some 14,000 feet in height,
and nearly covered with snow: this is Fusi-yama,
the holy mountain of Japan. It would certainly
be difficult in all the world to find a scene of
greater natural beauty than this.
As we rode onwards we passed many snug
little suburban residences, farm-houses, and cot-
tages, having little gardens in front containing
a few of the favourite flowering-plants of the
country. A remarkable feature in the Japanese
character is, that, even to the lowest classes, all
have an inherent love for flowers, and find in
the cultivation of a few pet plants an endless
source of recreation and unalloyed pleasure. If
this be one of the tests of a high state of


Chap. VI.
93
PUBLIC BATHS.
civilization amongst a people, the lower orders
amongst the Japanese come out in a most fa-
vourable light when contrasted with the same
classes amongst ourselves. Vegetables, too, were
observed in abundance. All foreigners who visit
Japan remark on the little flavour possessed
by the vegetables of the country. This is
probably owing to the peaty nature of the
soil. Although dark in colour and apparently
rich in vegetable matter, yet it has not the
strength or substance of the soil which is found
(for example) in the rich alluvial plain of the
Yang-tze-kiang in China.
In one of the villages through which we passed
we observed what appeared to be a family
bathing-room. The baths at the time were full
of persons of both sexes, old and young, ap-
parently of three or four generations, and all
were perfectly naked. This was a curious exhi-
bition to a foreigner, but the reader must
remember we are now in Japan. Bathing-houses
or rooms, both public and private, are found in
all parts of the Japanese empire—in the midst
of crowded cities, or, as we here see, in country
villages. The bath is one of the institutions of
the country; it is as indispensable to a Japanese
as tea is to a Chinaman. In the afternoon, in
the evening, and up to a late hour at night, the
bath is in full operation. Those who can afford
it have baths in their own houses for the use of
themselves and their families; the poorer classes,


PROMISCUOUS BATHING.
Chap. VI.
for a very small sum, can enjoy themselves at
the public baths. After coming in from a long
journey, or when tired with the labours of the day,
the Japanese consider a bath to be particularly
refreshing and enjoyable; and it is probably on
this account, as well as for cleanliness, that it is so
universally employed. The stern moralist of
Western countries will no doubt condemn the
system of promiscuous bathing, as it is contrary
to all his ideas of decency; on the other hand,
there are those who tell us that the custom only
shows simplicity and innocence such as that which
existed in the Garden of Eden before the fall
of man. All I can say is, that it is the custom
of the country to bathe in this way, and that, if
appealed to on the subject, the Japanese would
probably tell us that many of the customs amongst
ourselves—such, for example, as our mode of
dressing and dancing—are much more likely
to lead to immorality than bathing, and are not
so useful nor so healthy; at any rate, the practice
cannot be attributed to habits of primitive inno-
cence in this case, as no people in the world
are more licentious in their behaviour than the
Japanese.
Never in my wanderings in any other coun-
try did I meet with such charming lanes as we
passed through on this occasion. Sometimes
they reminded me of whai I had met with in
some of the country districts of England; but I
was compelled, notwithstanding early prejudices,


Chap. VI.
95
AVENUES AND GROVES.
to admit that nothing in England even could be
compared to them. Large avenues and groves
of pines, particularly of Cryptomeria, were fre-
quently met with, fringing the roads, and afford-
ing most delicious shade from the rays of the sun.
Now and then magnificent hedges were observed,
composed sometimes of evergreen oaks of various
species, sometimes of Cryptomeria japonica and
other evergreens. These were kept carefully
clipped, and in some instances they were trained to
a great height, reminding one of those high hedges
of holly or yew which may frequently be met with
in the parks or gardens of our English nobility.
Everywhere .the cottages and farm-houses had a
neat and clean appearance, such as I had never
observed in any other part of the East. Fre-
quently we came upon tea-houses for the refresh-
ment of travellers; and these had little gardens
and fish-ponds in their rear, of which glimpses
were obtained as we rode slowly by. The scene
was always changing and always beautiful—hill
and valley, broad roads and shaded lanes, houses
and gardens, with a people industrious, but un-
oppressed with toil, and apparently happy and
contented.
Such is the appearance of the sylvan scenery
in the vicinity of Yedo. I could scarcely fancy
myself on the borders of one of the largest and
most populous cities in the East, with a popula-
tion of two millions of human beings, and cover-
ing nearly a hundred square miles of land. As


96
Chap. VI.
STREET DOGS.
we rode through this charming scenery, the
stillness was hroken only by the rustling; of the
leaves of the trees and the tread of our horses'
feet. The people in the villages through which
we passed were quiet and civil, and did not
annoy us in any way. Little urchins sometimes
shouted out To-jin, To-jin, as we passed by—a
term which means Chinaman, but which pro-
bably is also used to designate a foreigner, or
one who is not a native of Japan. I am not
aware that the term is meant as an offensive
one, and it certainly does not appear quite so
bad as Fan-kwei, or Pih-kwei — that is, foreign
devil, or white devil — terms applied to us in
China rather too frequently. The dogs were
the only animals which showed their enmity to
us, .and this they did in a manner not to be
mistaken. They rushed out of the houses, and
barked at us in the most furious manner; but
they are cowardly withal, and generally keep at
a prudent distance.
These dogs appear to be of the same breed as
the common Chinese dog, and both have pro-
bably sprung originally from the same stock.
It is curious that they should have the same
antipathy to foreigners as their masters. For,
however civil and even kind the natives of
Japan and China appear to be, yet there is no
doubt that nine-tenths of them hate and despise
us. Apparently such feelings are born with
them, and they really cannot help themselves.


Chap. VI. STREET DOGS. 97
That we are allowed to live and travel and trade
in these countries is only because one class makes
money out of us, and another and a larger one is
afraid of our power. I fear we must come to
the conclusion, however unwillingly, that these
are the motives which keep Orientals on their
good behaviour, and force them to tolerate us
amongst them. The poor dogs have the same feel-
ings implanted in their nature, but they have not
the same hypocrisy, and therefore their hate is
visible. As watch-dogs they are admirable, and
that is almost the only use to which they are
applied. Old Dutch writers inform us that these
street dogs belong to no particular individual,
but that they are denizens of particular streets—
public property, as it were—and that they are
regarded with a kind of superstitious feeling by
the natives. They are "the only idlers in the
country." I think these statements may be re-
ceived as doubtful, or only partially true. Al-
though some of these dogs may have neither home
nor master, yet by far the greater portion have
both; and if the inhabitants look upon them
as sacred animals, and have any superstitious
feelings regarding them, they certainly show these
feelings of reverence in a peculiarly irreverent
manner. On a warm summer afternoon these
animals may be seen lying at full length in the
public highway, apparently sound asleep; and it
was not unusual for our attendants to kick and
whip them out of our road in a most unceremoni-
H


98 LAPDOGS. Chap. VI.
ous way. On many of them the marks of the sharp
swords of the yakoneens were plainly visible;
and everything tended to show, that, if the dogs
are regarded as sacred by some, the feeling fails
to secure them from being cruelly ill-treated by
the common people. It was not unusual to meet
with wretched specimens in a half-starved condi-
tion, and covered with a loathsome disease. The
fact that such animals were tolerated in the
public streets almost leads one to believe that they
must be regarded with superstitious feelings.
The lapdogs of the country are highly prized
both by natives and by foreigners. They are
small—some of them not more than nine or ten
inches in length. They are remarkable for snub-
noses and sunken eyes, and are certainly more
curious than beautiful. They are carefully bred;
they command high prices even amongst the
Japanese; and are dwarfed, it is said, by the use
of saki—a spirit to which their owners are par-
ticularly partial. Like those of the larger breed
already noticed, they are remarkable for the intense
hatred they bear to foreigners.
After a most pleasant excursion we found our-
selves at the gates of the British Legation, just as
it was getting dark. The evenings were now cold,
and some new stoves had been put up in the
dining-room. The first gong had sounded, and
we were getting ready for dinner—a meal for
which the excursion into the country had fully
prepared us. But the day was not to end so


Chap. VI. FIRE AT THE BRITISH LEGATION. 99
agreeably as we had supposed. A pipe leading
from the stove set fire to the roof of the dining-
room, and for some time it was feared the whole of
the Legation would be destroyed. The watchmen
who surrounded the premises gave the first alarm
to those outside by beating in a peculiar way
upon the hollow stem of the bamboo. This emits
a peculiar sound, which is heard a very long way
off. Then the large fire-bell sounded its alarm-
peal—a sound which was taken up by other bells,
and repeated all over Yedo. These fire-bells are
established in all Japanese towns, and the custody
of them is regularly organized. The manner in
which they are tolled informs the people whether
the fire be near or afar off—whether they ought
to come to render assistance at once, or hold them-
selves in readiness to come on a second warning.
On the present occasion all the arrangements
seemed to work most admirably. The gates round
the Legation were instantly closed and guarded by
armed yakoneens. The members of the fire-
brigade and those who had duties to perform were
allowed to enter, but all others were strictly ex-
cluded. In a few minutes the place was full of
armed men. Several hundreds were running
about in all directions — in the garden, in the
rooms, in the passages, and on the roofs of the dif-
ferent buildings; but watchful eyes were upon
them everywhere, and not an article of any kind
was stolen. The Minister's table was covered
with plate; his drawing-room contained numerous
u 2


100
ORGANIZATION OF FIRE-BRIGADE. Chap. VI.
articles of interest and value, both native and
foreign; yet, however tempting these things might
have been, not a single article was missing. Alto-
gether I had never seen such a perfect system
of organization. In China it would have been a
most difficult matter to have restrained the mob,
who would have seized the opportunity to plunder;
here, however, it seemed perfectly easy, and every
one was under the most complete control. Scenes
like this must be constantly happening in Yedo.
Fires are almost of daily occurrence in some part or
other of the city; and, owing to the houses being
principally built of wood, the fires spread with great
rapidity. The officers of the Government and the
members of the different fire-brigades have constant
practice; and this, no doubt, accounts for their
perfect system of organization, which was the
admiration of every one on the present occasion.
Here, however, our eulogium must end.
The engines which were brought to put out the
fire were the most wretched machines I ever saw.
A little pond in the garden, in which there was a
good supply of water, was not twenty yards from
the house; yet the engine had to be filled with
buckets by hand, there being no hose to connect it
with the pond. The stream of water it threw out
was little larger than that thrown by a hand-
syringe, and much less than could l« discharged
from a good garden engine. A number of men
carried water in buckets up ladders to the roof of
the building, and emptied it upon the flames; but


Chap. VI.
101
PROCESSION OF THE OFFICERS.
here, strange to say, there was no system—no
passing the buckets from hand to hand; every
man was doing what was right in his own eyes;
all were giving orders, and each one was making
all the noise he could. Luckily the fire had been
discovered early, and was easily extinguished, as
the night was calm. Had it only got a little
ahead before the discovery, or had a smart breeze
been blowing at the time, the British Legation in
Yedo, with the surrounding temples, would, in all
probability, have been burned to the ground.
The fire was at last extinguished, but, ere this
was accomplished, a considerable amount of damage
had been done to the buildings. The rooms,
papered in Japanese style, and divided from each
other by moving panels, were strewed with charred
wood, broken tiles, and deluged with water; the
pretty garden was covered with rubbish, and
several valuable plants hopelessly ruined. But in
the midst of this we were all thankful that the
flames had been subdued, and that we had still
ample room in other quarters of the Legation.
And now the last scene of all took place, and a
very sensible one it was. The high officers who
had been superintending the fire brigade formed a
kind of procession, and, with lanterns, marched up
the ladders and over the roof, to judge for them-
selves and make sure that the flames were really
extinguished. When everything was found in a
satisfactory condition, orders were given for the
people to leave, and in a few minutes the crowd


102 PRESENTS FROM FOREIGN GOVERNMENTS. Chap. VI.
of coolies, firemen, and two-sworded yakoneens,
had disappeared as quickly as they came.
A short time before I visited Japan the English
Government had made the Tycoon a present of a
pretty little steam yacht, which I am afraid will be
of little use to His Majesty; and during my visit
to Yedo the Government of the United States of
America had presented to the Japanese all the
newest and most destructive implements of war,
and also had sent an officer over to instruct them
how to use them. Should other nations in the
West feel desirous of making presents, I would
strongly recommend them to send- out some good
fire-engines, which would be of far more value
to the Japanese than implements of destruction,
which may one day be turned against the givers.


Chap. VII.
103
GARDENS.
CHAPTER VII.
A journey in search of new plants — Japanese College — Residence
of Prince Kanga — Dang-o-zaka — Its tea-gardens, fish-ponds,
and floral ladies — Nursery-gardens — Country people — Another
excursion — Soldiers — Arrive at Su-mae-yah — Country covered
with gardens — New plants — Mode of dwarfing — Variegated
plants — Ogee, the Richmond of Yedo — Its tea-house —The Ty-
coon's hunting-ground — Fine views — Agricultural productions —
A drunken man — Intemperance of the people generally.
The capital of Japan is remarkable for the large
number of gardens in its suburbs where plants are
cultivated for sale. The good people of Yedo, like
all highly civilized nations, are fond of flowers,
and hence the demand for them is very great.
The finest and most extensive of these gardens are
situated in the north-eastern suburbs, at places
called Dang-o-zaka, Ogee, and Su-mae-yah. As
one of my chief objects in coming to Yedo was to
examine such places as these, I lost ho time in
paying them a visit.
As the British Legation was situated in the
south-west suburb, I had to cross the entire city
before I could reach these gardens. From the time
occupied in going this distance I estimated the
width of the city, in this direction, at about nine
or ten miles. Passing in from the western suburb,
I went through the "Official Quarter," with its


104
RESIDENCE OF PRINCE KANGA. Chap. VII.
wide straight streets and town residences of the
Daimios or lords and princes of the Empire,
which have been already noticed. On a rising
ground on my left I observed the palace of the
Tycoon. Proceeding onward in an easterly direc-
tion, I recrossed the moat, and was again amongst
the streets and shops of the common people.
Here, on a hill-side, in the midst of some tall pines
and evergreen oaks, I observed a large building,
which, I was informed, was a college for students
of Chinese classics. A little further on I passed
the palace of the Prince of Kanga, reputed to be
the wealthiest and most powerful noble in the
empire, and to have no less than 40,000 retainers
located in his palaces in the capital, ready to do his
bidding, whether that be to dethrone the Tycoon
or to take the life of a foreigner. He was reported
to be at the head of the conservative party in the
empire, and to be unfavourable to foreigners.
After passing the residence of Prince Kanga I
found myself in the eastern suburb. One long
street, with houses on each side of the way, and
detached towns here and there, extended two or
three miles beyond this. Turning out of this
street to the right hand, I passed through some
pretty shaded lanes, and in a few minutes more
reached the romantic town of Dang-o-zaka. This
pretty place is situated in a valley, having wooded
hills on either side, with gardens, fish-ponds, and
tea-houses in the glen and on the sides of the hills.
In the principal tea-gardens the fish-ponds are


Chap. VII. DANG-O-ZAKA — ITS TEA-GARDENS. 105
stocked with different kinds of fish; and I observed
a number of anglers amusing themselves fishing,
in the usual way, with hooks baited with worms.
The most curious objects in this garden were
imitation ladies made up out of the flowers of the
chrysanthemum. Thousands of flowers were used
for this purpose; and as these artificial beauties
smiled upon the visitors out of the little alcoves
and summer houses, the- effect was oftentimes
rather startling. The ■ favourite flowering plum-
trees were planted in groups and avenues in all
parts of the garden, while little lakes and islands
of rockwork added to the general effect.
Having patronised this establishment by taking
sundry cups of tea, I intimated to my attendant
yakoneens my intention to look out for some
gardens of a different kind, in which I could
purchase some new plants. But pleasure was the
order of the day with them, and they coolly
informed me there were no other places worth
seeing here, and that we had better go on to the
tea-gardens of Ogee. From information I had
previously received, I knew they were deceiving
me, and therefore proceeded to take a general
survey on my own account. When they saw I
was determined to look out for myself, they pre-
tended to have received some information about
other places, and said they were willing to guide
me to them. Telling them I was greatly obliged,
I desired them to lead the way. A short walk to
the top of the hill brought us to a long, straight,


106
Chap. VII.
NURSERY-GARDENS.
country-looking road, lined with neatly clipped
hedges. Here I found a large number of nursery
gardens, richly stocked with the ornamental plants
of the country. Crowds of people followed us, and,
although they were rather noisy, and anxious to
see such a strange sight as a foreigner in these out-
of-the-way places, they were, upon the whole, par-
ticularly civil and easily managed and controlled.
As I entered a nursery the gates were quietly
closed upon the people, who waited patiently
until I came out, and then they followed me on to
the next. The yakoneens seemed to be greatly
respected, or feared it may be, but, at all events, a
look, a word, or a movement of the fan, was quite
sufficient to preserve the most perfect order.
I visited garden after garden in succession.
Each was crowded with plants, some cultivated in
pots and others in the open ground, many of which
were entirely new to Europe, and of great interest
and value. Every now and then my yakoneens
informed me that the garden I happened to be in
at the time was the last one in the lane, but I told
them goodhumouredly I would go on a little
further and satisfy myself. This they could not
object to, and, as more gardens were found, they
only smiled and said they had been misinformed.
My old experience in China was of good service to
me here. There is nothing like patience, polite-
ness, and good humour, with these Orientals,
whether they present themselves as noisy crowds
or crafty officials.


Chap. VII. NURSERY-GARDENS. 107
At first the proprietors were not quite sure
whether they ought to sell me the plants which I
selected. A reference was invariably made to the
yakoneens, both upon this point and also as to
what sum they should ask. I am afraid I must
confess to the impression that these gentry made
me pay considerably more than the fair value or
"market price." As I concluded each purchase,
the plants purchased, the price, and the name of
the vendor, were carefully written down by one of
the officials, and this report of my proceedings was
taken home to their superiors.
The day was far spent before I had finished the
inspection of these interesting gardens, but I was
greatly pleased with the results. A great number
of new shrubs and trees, many of them probably
well suited for our English climate, had been
purchased. Orders were now given to the dif-
ferent nurserymen to bring the plants to the
English Legation on the following day, and we
parted mutually pleased with our bargains. It
was now too late to go to Ogee or Su-mae-yah, so
that journey was put off until another day.
Mounting our horses, we left the pleasant and
romantic lanes of Dang-o-zaka and rode home-
wards. In coming out we had passed to the south
of the Tycoon's palace, but in going home a
different route was taken—a route which led us
along the north side of these buildings. In all
my excursions about Yedo with a guard of
yakoneens, I have invariably observed that they


108 ANOTHER EXCURSION. Chap. VII.
have brought me home by a different road from
that by which I went. At first I gave them credit
for a desire to show me as much of the city as
possible, but I am now inclined to believe that
they had orders of this kind from their superiors;
and that the object was to prevent the chance of
an attack from any one who had seen us going out,
and who might lie in wait for us on our return.
Be that as it may, the fact is as I have stated.
On the following morning the whole of the
nurserymen from whom I had purchased plants
presented themselves at the British Legation, to
deliver the plants and to receive their money—
and possibly to pay a small tax to the officials.
But if the latter transaction took place, it was done
quietly and without a murmur.
A day or two after this, with a flask of wine
slung over my shoulder, and a small loaf and jar
of potted meat in my pocket, I started early in the
morning in order to explore the country and
gardens about Su-mae-yah and Ogee. The same
guard of yakoneens accompanied me, and our road,
for a good part of the way, was the same as that
by which I went to Dang-o-zaka. The places we
now proposed to visit, although in the same direc-
tion, are considerably farther off. Passing, there-
fore, the scene of my former visit, I rode onwards
farther out into the suburbs. The houses gradu-
ally began to get more scattered, sometimes fields
and trees lined one side of the road, and every-
thing showed me that I had fairly left the great


Chap. VII.
109
SOLDIERS.
city behind me. In one of these country parks I
heard some soldiers going through their exercise;
and the music was not unlike that of our own
military bands. It was. very likely an imitation
of something of the kind. The high close paling
and dense brushwood prevented me from seeing
much, but sometimes I caught a glimpse of the
flags and spears of the soldiers. The Daimios are
constantly training their soldiers in all the arts of
Japanese warfare. On this occasion, when passing
near a Daimio's residence in the city, I heard the
clattering of arms, as of men engaged in fencing;
and many times, during my stay in Yedo, I have
heard the same sounds. If ever any European
nation has the misfortune to go to war with Japan,
it will find the Japanese, as soldiers, very much
superior to the Chinese. At the same time, as
we do not fight with swords only, there is little
doubt about the issue of such a contest. Let us
hope, however, that such a thing as a war with
Japan may be far distant, and that, in this one
instance at least, we may have the satisfaction of
opening up a country without deluging it with the
blood of its people.
Park-like scenery, trees and gardens, neatly-
clipped hedges, succeeded each other; and my at-
tendant yakoneens at length announced that we had
arrived at the village of Su-mae-yah. The whole
country here is covered with nursery-gardens. One
straight, road, more than a mile in length, is lined
with them. I have never seen, in any part of the


110
SU-MAE-YAH — GARDENS. Chap. VII.
world, such a large number of plants cultivated for
sale. Each nursery covers three or four acres of
land, is nicely kept, and contains thousands of
plants, both in pots and in the open ground. As
these nurseries are generally much alike in their
features, a description of one will give a good idea
of them all.
On entering the gateway there is a pretty little
winding path leading up to the proprietor's house,
which is usually situated near the centre of the
garden. On each side of this walk are planted
specimens of the hardy ornamental trees and shrubs
of the country, many of which are dwarfed or
clipped into round table forms. The beautiful little
yew ( Taxus cuspidata) which I formerly introduced
into Europe from China, occupies a prominent place
amongst dwarf shrubs. Then there are the dif-
ferent species of Pines, Thujas, Retinosporas, and
the beautiful Sciadopitys verticiUata, all duly repre-
sented.
Plants cultivated in pots are usually kept near
the house of the nurseryman, or enclosed with a
fence of bamboo-work. These are cultivated and
arranged much in the same way as we do such
things at home. The Japanese gardener has not
yet brought glass-houses to his aid for the protec-
tion and cultivation of tender plants. Instead of
this he uses sheds and rooms fitted with shelves,
into which all the tender things are huddled to-
gether for shelter during the cold months of winter.
Here I observed some South American plants, such


Chap. VII.
Ill
DWARF PLANTS.
as cacti, aloes, &c, which have found their way
here, although as yet unknown in China—a fact
which shows the enterprise of the Japanese in a
favourable light. A pretty species of fuchsia was
also observed amongst the other foreigners. In one
garden I saw a large number of a species of acorus
with deep green leaves. These were cultivated in
fine square porcelain pots, and in each pot was a
little rock of agate, crystal, or other rare stone,
many of these representing the famous Fusi-yama.
or " Matchless Mountain" of Japan. All this little
arrangement was shaded from bright sunshine and
protected from storms by means of a matting which
was stretched overhead. There was nothing else
in this garden but the acorus above mentioned, but
of this there must have been several hundred speci-
mens. The pretty Nanking square porcelain pots,
the masses of deep green foliage, and the quaint
form and colouring of the little rocks, produced a
novel and striking effect, which one does not meet
with every day.
In Japan, as in China, dwarf plants are greatly
esteemed; and the art of dwarfing has been brought
to a high state of perfection. President Meylan, in
the year 1826, saw a box which he describes as
only one inch square by three inches high, in which
were actually growing and thriving a bamboo, a
fir, and a plum-tree, the latter being in full blossom.
The price of this portable grove was 1200 Dutch
gulden, or about 100Z. In the gardens of Su-mae-
yah dwarf plants were fairly represented, although


112
Chap. VII.
AKT OF DWARFING TREBS.
I did not meet with anything so very small and
very expensive as that above mentioned. Pines;
junipers, thujas, bamboos, cherry and plum trees,
are generally the plants chosen for the purpose of
dwarfing.
The art of dwarfing trees, as commonly practised
both in China and Japan, is in reality very simple
and easily understood. It is based upon one of the
commonest principles of vegetable physiology.
Anything which has a tendency to check or retard
the flow of the sap in trees, also prevents, to a cer-
tain extent, the formation of wood and leaves. This
may be done by grafting, by confining the roots in
a small space, by withholding water, by bending
the branches, and in a hundred other ways, which
all proceed upon the same principle. This prin-
ciple is perfectly understood by the Japanese, and
they take advantage, of it to make nature sub-
servient to this particular whim of theirs. They
are said to select the smallest seeds from the smallest
plants, which I think is not at all unlikely. I have
frequently seen Chinese gardeners selecting suckers
for this purpose from the plants of their gardens.
Stunted varieties were generally chosen, particu-
larly if they had the side branches opposite or
regular, for much depends upon this; a one-sided
dwarf-tree is of no value in the eyes of the Chinese
or Japanese. The main stem was then, in most
cases, twisted in a zigzag form, which process
checked the flow of the sap, and at the same time
encouraged the production of side-branches at those


Chap. VII. MODE OF DWARFING. 113
parts of the stem where they were most desired.
The pots in which they were planted were narrow
and shallow, so that they held but a small quantity
of soil compared with the wants of the plants, and
no more water was given than was actually neces-
sary to keep them alive. When new branches
were in the act of formation they were tied down
and twisted in various ways; the points of the
leaders and strong-growing ones were generally
nipped out, and every means were taken to dis-
courage the production of young shoots possessing
any degree of vigour. Nature generally struggles
against this treatment for a while, until her powers
seem to be in a great measure exhausted, when she
quietly yields to the power of Art. The artist,
however, must be ever on the watch; for should
the roots of his plants get through the pots into
the ground, or happen to receive a liberal supply
of moisture, or should the young shoots be allowed
to grow in their natural position for a time, the
vigour of the plant, which has so long been lost,
will be restored, and the fairest specimens of Ori-
ental dwarfing destroyed. It is a curious fact that
when plants, from any cause, become stunted or
unhealthy, they almost invariably produce flowers
and fruit, and thus endeavour to propagate and
perpetuate their kind. This principle is of great
value in dwarfing trees. Flowering trees—such,
for example, as peaches and plums—produce then-
blossoms most profusely under the treatment I
have described; and as they expend their energies
i


114
VARIEGATED PLANTS. Chap. VII.
in this way, they have little inclination to make
vigorous growth.
The most remarkable feature in the nurseries of
Su-mae-yah and Dang-o-zaka is the large number
of plants with variegated leaves. It is only a very
few years since our taste in Europe led us to take
an interest in and to admire those curious freaks
of nature called variegated plants. For anything
I know to the contrary, the Japanese have been
cultivating this taste for a thousand years. The
result is that they have in cultivation, in a varie-
gated state, almost all the ornamental plants of the
country, and many of these are strikingly hand-
some. Here is a list of a few to give some idea
of the extent and number of these extraordinary
productions :—Pines, Junipers, Retinosporas, Podo-
carpus, Illiciums, Andromeda japonica, Euryas, Ele-
agnus, Pittosporum Tobira, Euonymus (yellow),
Aralia, Laurus, Salisburia adiantifolia. I have
already said we must look upon the Aucuba japonica
of our gardens as only a variegated variety of that
species. Then there is a variegated orchid! a
variegated palm! a variegated camellia! and even
the tea-plant is duly represented in this "happy
family!" The beautiful Sciadopitys verticilhta, ^ - v-
which is no doubt "one of the finest conifers in
Asia," has produced a variety which has golden-
striped leaves.
It may readily be imagined that I was able to
select a great number of new ornamental shrubs
and trees which will one day, it is hoped, produce a


116
Chap. VII.
FINE VIEWS.
dinner, I tried to induce them to remain and finish
it, telling them I was only going for a short walk,
and that I would soon return. This they would
not listen to, so I let them have their own way, and
we all set out together. My chief object was to
get upon the top of a hill in the vicinity, in order
to have a good view of the country. A few minutes
brought me to the top, which formed a kind of
table-land, uncultivated, but having here and there
a few groups of lofty trees. This forms the hunting-
grounds of his Imperial Majesty the Tycoon. It is
here that on certain occasions he watches the flight
of the falcon in pursuit of the heron of Japan—a
bird held sacred by the Japanese, and rigidly pre-
served by the authorities. There is also on this
hill an archery-ground for the Imperial soldiers,
and a refectory for preparing a repast for his
Majesty's retinue.
The view from the top of this eminence was
exceedingly fine. To the northward, a highly culti-
vated agricultural country lay spread out. It was
the period of the rice-harvest, and the fields were
now yellow with the ripening grain. The young
crops of wheat and barley, already several inches
above ground, were of the liveliest green, and
contrasted well with the yellow rice-fields. The
country was well-wooded, and a little river was
seen winding through the valley on its way to the
head of the Yedo bay. Taking the place as a
whole, his Majesty the Tycoon could scarcely have
found a more pleasant hunting-ground.


Chap. VII.
117
A DRUNKEN MAN.
The day was now far advanced; indeed, my
yakoneens had been hinting some time before this
that it was time to return to Yedo. First, they
looked to the heavens, and gravely informed me
they thought it was going to rain; and when they
saw this did not produce the desired effect, they
told me evening was approaching, and that it
was dangerous for me to be out after dark. This
was no doubt quite true, and during my residence
in Yedo I invariably made it a rule to get back to
the Legation as soon after nightfall as possible.
On the present occasion I intimated to them that I
was now quite ready to return to the city, and we
were soon on our way.
On our way back, and just when we were
opposite to the residence of the Prince of
Kanga—the Daimio whom I have already men-
tioned as unfavourable to foreigners—a drunken
man was monopolizing the road, who, I was
afraid, might give us some trouble. He had
a long wooden pole in his hands, and was endea-
vouring to strike all who came in his path. One
of my betos, or grooms, was struck by him; but as
the poor wretch could scarcely stand, it was very
easy to get out of his way. He had no idea that
a foreigner was behind him; and I shall never
forget the peculiar wild and drunken stare he
gave me when he observed me. Under the cir-
cumstances I judged it prudent to leave him in his
trance of astonishment, and trotted onwards.
Intemperance in the use of ardent spirits is one


118
INTEMPERANCE OF THE PEOPLE. Chap. VII.
of the vices of the Japanese. In this respect, if
we can trust Thunberg, the Swedish physician,
they must have degenerated sadly during the last
hundred years. Amongst a long catalogue of
their virtues, Thunberg says, they have "no play
or coffee-houses, no taverns nor alehouses, and
consequently no consumption of coffee, chocolate,
brandy, wine, or punch; no privileged soil, no
waste lands, and not a single meadow; no national
debt, no paper currency, no course of exchange, and
no bankers (!)." It may have been so in Thun-
berg's time, although I confess to some doubts
upon the subject; but it will be seen, from what
came under my own observation, that things are
very different now.
In these days it is a common saying that "all
Yedo gets drunk after sunset!" This is, of course,
an exaggeration; but, no doubt, drunkenness pre-
vails to a degree happily unknown in other
countries at the present day. Even before the
evening closes in, the faces of those one meets in
the streets are suspiciously red, showing plainly
enough that saki has been imbibed pretty freely.
Nor is it in the capital city only that such a state
of things exists. We learn from Dr. Pompe, the
Dutch physician at Nagasaki, that one-half of -
the whole adult population are more or less in-
ebriated with saki by nine o'clock every evening!
When I state that a great proportion of these
drunken people in the capital are armed with two
rather sharp swords, and that in this condition they


Chap. VII. INTEMPERANCE OF THE PEOPLE.
119
are often ill-natured and quarrelsome, it will be
readily seen that the city of Yedo is not a
very safe place for foreigners to be about in after
nightfall.
The remainder of our ride home from Ogee was
without any incident worth relating, and I arrived
at the house of the English Minister, well pleased
with the successful issue of the day's excursion.
On various occasions during my stay in Yedo I
repeated my visits to Dang-o-zaka, Su-mae-yah,
and Ogee, and was thus enabled to add to my
collections a very large number of the ornamental
trees and shrubs of Japan.


Japanese Heads, showing tie mode of dressing the hair.
. Back of head before the hair Is tied up. 2. Second process. Full drew.


Chap. VIII. COMMERCIAL QUARTER OF YEDO. 121
wooden box being dropped over its cage. This
box has a small paper window, in order to admit
a little subdued light. In this condition it sings
charmingly, and has a full, clear, ringing note,
wonderfully loud for so small a bird. The Japan-
ese name of this little songster is Ogo-yezu.
After breakfast the Abbe and I mounted our
horses, and, accompanied by our two sets of yako-
neens, set out to visit the temple of Ah-sax-saw,
which lies on the eastern or south-eastern side of
Yedo. Our route led us, not only through a
portion of the "official quarter," which I had
frequently visited, but also through the main
streets of the trading part of the city. I confess I
was rather disappointed. The streets were much
wider and cleaner than those of the Chinese towns;
but the contents of the shops appeared to be of
little value. One must, however, bear in mind
that Yedo is not a manufacturing or trading town
in the usual sense in which the term is used.
Hence, perhaps, I ought to have expected to see
only the necessaries, or perhaps a few of the luxu-
ries of life, exhibited in the shops here. Silk and
cotton shops were numerous, and, if they did not
obtain custom, it was not for want of the use of
means. Men and boys were stationed in front of
the doors trying all their arts to induce the passers-
by to go in and spend their money. Lacquer-ware,
bronzes, and porcelain were exhibited in abun-
dance, as were also umbrellas, pipes, toys, and
paper made up into every conceivable article.


122
Chap. VIII.
PAPER, ITS USES.
I may here mention in passing that Japanese
paper is made chiefly out of the bark of the paper
mulberry (Broussonetia papyrifera). It is parti-
cularly well suited for decorative purposes, such
as the papering of rooms. It has a glossy, silky,
and comfortable appearance, and many of the
patterns are extremely chaste and pretty. The
fan pattern, which looked as if fans had been
thrown all over the surface, used to be much
admired by the foreign residents. For some reason
it is made in very small sheets, which would
render it rather inconvenient to our paper-hangers.
This, however, is no detriment in Japan, where
labour is cheap. Japanese oil-paper is of a very
superior quality, and is used for a variety of
purposes. For a very small sum one can be clothed
in a "Mackintosh" coat and trowsers capable of
keeping out any amount of rain. As a wrapper
to protect silk goods and other valuable fabrics
from wet and damp it is - invaluable, and owing to
its great strength it is often used instead of a tin
or lead casing. Despatch-boxes, looking like
leather, and very hard and durable, are also made
of paper, and so are letter-bags, purses, cigar-cases,
umbrellas, and many other articles in daily use.
In addition to those purposes to which paper is
applied in western countries, in Japan it is used
for windows instead of glass, for the partitions of
rooms instead of lath and plaster, for fans and
fan-cases, for twine, and in a variety of other
ways.


Chap. Till. ARTICLES OF FOOD.
123
Articles used as food were displayed in abun-
dance in all the streets of the commercial quarter.
The vegetables and fruits of the country, such as I
have named elsewhere, were in profusion every-
where, and apparently cheap. The bay supplies
the good people of Yedo with excellent fish, and
consequently the fishmonger was duly represented
amongst the shopkeepers, where his wares could be
purchased either dead or alive, fresh or salted.
Butchers' shops were also observed as we rode along,
showing that the Japanese do not live on vege-
tables and fish only. It is true that in these shops
we did not observe any beef, for the Japanese do
not kill their bullocks and eat them as we do; and,
as the sheep is not found in the country, we, of
course, could not see any mutton. Venison, how-
ever, was common, and monkeys were observed in
several of the shops. I shall never forget the
impression produced upon me when I saw the
latter hanging up in front of a butcher's door.
They were skinned, and had a most uncomfortable
resemblance to the members of the human family.
I dare say the Japanese consider the flesh of the
monkey very savoury; but there is no accounting
for prejudices and tastes, and I must confess that I
must have been very hungry indeed before I could
have dined off these human-looking monkeys.
In our ride through the town we remarked a
large number of fire-proof houses, or godowns, for
the protection of money or valuable goods in case
of fire. These have thick walls of mud and stone,


124
NIPON-BAS — AH-SAX-SAW. Chap. VIII.
and are most useful in a country like this, where
fires occur so frequently. Wooden watch-towers
were also numerous in all parts of the city. These
are posts of observation, from which a fire can
be observed at a distance and an alarm given.
Buckets of water were seen in every street, and
frequently on the tops of the houses; and a kind
of fire-police are continually on the watch by night
and by day, ready to give instant notice and
assistance.
After riding in an easterly direction for some
time, we arrived at the celebrated Nipon-Bas, or
"Bridge of Japan." This crosses a canal which is
fed by a river a little to the south of the bridge,
and which is apparently connected with the moat
which encircles the official quarter and the palace
of the Tycoon. The bridge is a strong wooden
structure resting on piles, and riveted together
with massive clamps of iron. To a foreign eye
there is nothing very remarkable in its appear-
ance; but by the Japanese it is considered one of
the wonders of Yedo. From this bridge the dis-
tances to all parts of the empire are measured in ri;
and hence it is usual to say, such a place is so
many ri distant—not from Yedo, but—from Nipon-
Bas. A ri is about equal to two and a half English
miles.
A ride of about two hours brought us to Ah-sax-
saw. Its massive temple was seen looming at the
further end of a broad avenue. An ornamental
arch, or gateway, was thrown across the avenue,








Chap. YIII. AH-SAX-SAW — THE TEMPLES.
125
which had a very good effect; a huge belfry stood
on one side; and a number of large trees, such as
pines and Salisburia adiantifolia, surrounded the
temple. Each side of the avenue was lined with
shops and stalls, open in front like a bazaar, in
which all sorts of Japanese things were exposed
for sale. Toys of all kinds, such as humming-tops,
squeaking-dolls with very large heads, puzzles, and
pictures were numerous, and apparently in great
demand. Looking-glasses, tobacco-pipes, common
lacquer-ware, porcelain, and such like articles,
were duly represented. Had the whole been
covered over with glass, it would have been not
unlike the Lowther Arcade in London. Crowds of
people followed us as we entered the avenue, who
had evidently seen little of Europeans before; but
although somewhat noisy, they treated us with the
most perfect civility and respect.
On our arrival at the head of the avenue, we
found ourselves in front of the huge temple, and
ascended its massive steps. Its wide doors stood
open; candles were burning on the altars, and
priests were engaged in their devotions. It was
the old story over again — unmeaning sounds,
beating of drums, tinkling of bells, &c, which I
had so often heard when a guest in the Buddhist
temples of China.
The temple has numerous tea-houses attached
to it for the accommodation of visitors and devo-
tees. Adjoining them are many pretty gardens
with fish-ponds, ornamental bridges, artificial rock-


126
FINE CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Chap. VIII.
work, and avenues of plum and cherry trees, which
seem the favourite ones at all the tea-houses and
temples of Japan.
This place is most famed in the vicinity of Yedo
for the variety and beauty of its chrysanthemums.
At the time of our visit they were in full bloom,
and most certainly would have delighted the eyes
of our English florists had they found themselves
so far away from Hammersmith, the Temple, or
Stoke Newington. I procured some extraordinary
varieties, most peculiar in form and in colouring,
and quite distinct from any of the kinds at present
known in Europe. One had petals like long thick
hairs, of a red colour, but tipped with yellow,
looking like the fringe of a shawl or curtain;
another had broad white petals striped with red
like a carnation or camellia; while others were
remarkable for their great size and brilliant colour-
ing. If I can succeed in introducing these varie-
ties into Europe, they may create as great a change
amongst chrysanthemums as my old protegee the
modest "Chusan daisy" did when she became the
parent of the present race of pompones.*
In order to make sure of getting the finest
varieties, I determined to take suckers from those
in bloom at the time of my visit, and further to
take these same suckers home under my own care.
Having settled the price with some difiiculty, I
then intimated to the proprietor my wish that he
should dig them up forthwith. To this he made
* Musi of them have arrived safely in England.


Chap. VIII.
127
THE TEA-PLANT.
many objections, not on his own account, but on
mine. "They would be inconvenient for me to
carry," he said, and "he was quite willing to dig
them up next morning and bring them himself to
the Legation." I do not know that the man
wanted to deceive me by bringing different and
inferior kinds to those I had purchased, but I had
been taken in once or twice in this way in China,
and had determined not to be taken in again. I
therefore expressed my best thanks for his good
intentions towards me, but got him to let me
have the suckers, to take home under my own
charge.
The Japanese gardener understands the art of
chrysanthemum culture rather better than we do,
and produces blooms of wonderful size. This is
done by great care, good soil, and by allowing only
one or two blooms to be perfected at the end of a
shoot.
The tea-plant was common in these gardens, and
was frequently used as an edging for the walks.
In this position it was kept clipped, and had a
pretty and novel appearance. In other places in
this district I observed it cultivated rather exten-
sively for the sake of its leaves. There is also in
the gardens of Ah-sax-saw a collection of living
birds and other animals for the amusement of
visitors who may happen to be fond of this branch
of natural history. I observed green pigeons,
speckled crows, a fine large eagle, gold and silver


128
Chap. VIII.
THE YEDO RIVER.
pheasants, mandarin ducks, rabbits, and squirrels
amongst the collection. Altogether, there are
many things here calculated to amuse and instruct
the good people of Yedo when they come out for
a holiday; and when the plum and cherry trees
are in blossom, these gardens must be very enjoy-
able.
Leaving Ah-sax-saw, with its temples, tea-
gardens, and chrysanthemums, we returned up
the avenue by which we came, and were again
followed by crowds of wondering natives. Taking
now a southerly direction, we came upon a broad
river which flows from the eastward, and empties
itself into the bay of Yedo. It is about as large as
the Thames at Richmond or Kew. We crossed it
by a wooden bridge, and then entered that part of
the town called by the Japanese Moo-co-gee-me, or
"island opposite to Yedo." This is, in fact, the
Southwark or Borough of the capital. It is large
and densely populated; the streets run mostly at
right angles with each other; and it is intersected
by a number of wide canals.
Riding along the banks of the river, we soon
found ourselves nearly clear of houses and in the
country. As we looked back over the river, the
city of Yedo, with its temples, watch-towers, and
undulating wooded hills, lay spread out before us,
and formed a picture of striking beauty. Nearly
all the land where we were was one vast garden;
or to speak more correctly, it was covered with tea-


Chap. VIII. YEDO EMBANKMENT.
gardens and nurseries. There were hedges of
single camellias (C. sasanqua), white and red, and
China roses, all in full bloom, although it was now
late in November. Many evergreen trees were
there, clipped into fanciful shapes; and the in-
dispensable flowering plums and cherries were in
great abundance, although now leafless and having
put on their wintry garb.
We paid a visit to a number of tea-houses and
gardens; and from the way in which they were
arranged and planned, no doubt they are patro-
nized by thousands during the spring and summer
seasons, when picnic-loving and pleasure-seeking
Yedoites go out to enjoy themselves. Everywhere
we were politely received, and tea pressed upon us
by the proprietors of the gardens.
We were now some ten or twelve miles from the
foreign Legations, and declining day warned us to
hasten our return. On our way back we followed
for some distance the course of the river. There
is a fine broad embankment all the way along the
left bank, which we could not help contrasting
with that which is now being formed at Pimlico
and Chelsea. But the Yedo embankment has
probably been in existence for many generations
—a monument of the foresight and enterprise of
this extraordinary people.
In this part of Yedo there is a celebrated Budd-
hist temple named Eco-ying, which was erected to
the memory of 180,000 human beings who lost
their lives in one night about 150 years ago. As
K


130
TEMPLE OK ECO-Y1NG. Chap. VIII.
the story runs, on that night occurred one of those
fearful earthquakes which so heavily afflict this
beautiful country. Houses were thrown down in
all directions, and hundreds were buried alive in
the ruins; conflagrations naturally followed, and
tins city of wooden houses was almost destroyed.
Our attendant yakoneens kindly offered to take
us to this celebrated temple, which was only a very
little out of our way on our route homewards. As
we approached it I observed in front a statue of
Buddha, and some upright stones carved with an
inscription which told the visitor of the fearful
catastrophe and where the victims were buried.
When we ascended the stone steps in front of the
temple, a noisy crowd followed and surrounded us;
we being now in a part of the town densely popu-
lated, and seldom if ever visited by foreigners.
In an instant we had the yakoneens of the district
in addition to our own by our sides, in order to pro-
tect us from insult or injury. Although noisy
enough in all conscience, this crowd of people were
good-humoured, and, although naturally anxious
to look upon such strange beings as we were con-
sidered to be, they were perfectly civil, making way
for us in any direction we wished to go.
On entering the temple a curious scene was pre-
sented to our eyes. Candles were burning dimly
on the altars, and incense filled the murky atmos-
phere with a heavy perfume. An old reverend-
looking man occupied a kind of pulpit, and was
engaged in a sermon or address to a number of


Chap. VIII.
131
EARTHQUAKES.
young men, women, and children. This reverend
gentleman and his youthful congregation had a
part of the temple to themselves—a sort of chapel
in fact, which was separated from the rest of the
building by a network of string; not strong cer-
tainly, but perfectly sufficient for the purpose in
this orderly country. On our entrance, followed
by a noisy crowd, the preacher continued his dis-
course apparently as if he was perfectly unconscious
of our presence. It was very different, however,
with the members of his congregation: all of them
transferred their attention from the preacher .to us;
turning round, they fixed their eyes upon us, and
commenced laughing and chatting in a manner
which, if complimentary to us, certainly was not so
to their reverend instructor. Not willing to annoy
the old man, we did not prolong our visit in the
temple, but left him to finish his discourse, and
his youthful audience to profit by his teaching.
Earthquakes such as that which this temple and
its monuments were designed to commemorate are
fortunately rare even in Japan. In the days when
Taiko-sama was king (about the year 1595), we
are told that an earthquake of frightful violence
took place. "The sea rose to an extraordinary
height, especially in the strait between Nipon and
Sikok, attended with terrible destruction of life
and property." In 1793 another terrible earth-
quake took place. "The summit of a high moun-
tain in the province of Fisen, west of Simbara, sunk
entirely down. Boiling water rushed in torrents
k 2


132
Chap. VIII.
EARTHQUAKES.
from all parts of the cavity, and a vapour like a
thick smoke covered the mountain. Three weeks
after, there was an eruption from a crater about
half a league from the summit. The boiling lava
flowed down in streams, and for many days the
surrounding country was in flames. A month
after, the whole island of Kiu-siu was shaken by an
earthquake, felt principally, however, in the neigh-
bourhood of Simbara. It reduced that part of the
province of Figo opposite to Simbara to a deplorable
condition; and even altered the whole line of coast,
sinking many vessels which lay in the harbours."
The last visitation of any great violence occurred
in 1854. In Yedo alone it is supposed that
200,000 human beings were destroyed at this time,
partly by the falling buildings and partly by fires,
which were raging in all parts of the city, occasioned
by the earthquake. The little town of Simoda, a
few miles outside of Yedo bay, was laid in ruins at
this time, and the Russian frigate 'Diana' was
wrecked in the harbour.
During my residence in Japan, earthquakes,
although not of a violent character, were of fre-
quent occurrence, and generally took place during
the night. The sound of creaking timbers used to
remind me of my experience in the cabin of a small
steamer labouring in a heavy sea during or after a
gale of wind. Then my bed used to move about
in a most uneasy manner, as if some strong power
was endeavouring to carry it bodily away, but,
changing its mind, had set it down again. Bishop


Chap. V1II.
133
EARTHQUAKES.
Smith, in his 'Ten Weeks in Japan,' gives an
amusing account of his first experience in this way.
He says, "At 4 A.M. on the morning following
my first night of sleeping in the Legation, I was
suddenly awoke by a loud rattling noise at my door,
and a forcible lifting up of my bed, and its heavy
descent with a violent jerk to the ground. I
shouted again and again to no purpose, warning
the supposed intruder from my room, and making
it perceptible that I was on the alert. A continued
shaking of the bed, and a rumbling noise through-
out the building, at first suggested the suspicion
that our native guards were right, and that I had
to prepare myself for the irruption of some invader.
The foe, however, came from a quarter which I
little suspected. An English voice in a distant
apartment exclaimed,' An earthquake!' The sign
of panic amongst the native population was soon
audible. The priests rushed to the temples and
commenced reciting their Buddhist chants. The
monks began their ringing of bells, and beating of
drums and gongs at the neighbouring shrines.
The Japanese domestics fied into the open air,
and for the moment all was confusion and dis-
may."
The natives of the country seem to dread these
earthquakes even more than the foreigners who
are now located amongst them. An intelligent
Japanese, who spoke English well, expressed his
fears that his country would one day disappear from
the surface of the globe, and sink down under the


134
Chap. VIW.
EARTIIQUAKKS.
waves of the ocean. He had been told that an
island out at sea, once fair and verdant, covered
with people and houses and trees, was now nowhere
visible, and that ships sailed over the spot where it
once was.
Earthquakes are so common in Japan that mete-
orologists have a division in their tables in order to
mark their occurrence. Dr. Hepburn, to whom I
am indebted for a table showing the temperature of
Kanagawa, and which I shall have occasion to
mention hereafter, has one of these columns in his
table. By a reference to it, it will be found that
from the 1st of November, 1859, to the 31st of
October, 1860, no less than twenty-eight shocks
had been felt. In November, 1861, four are
marked, and in February, 1861, there are the same
number. This will give some idea of the fre-
quency of the shocks, and of the volcanic nature of
the country. When we consider how often these
earthquakes happen, and how awfully violent they
sometimes are, it is scarcely to be wondered at if
the natives of the country view them with feelings
of awe and dread, and express their fears that some
day their fair and beautiful land may disappear in
the waters of the sea .
As the Temple of Eco-ying is situated in a part
of the town rarely visited by foreigners, crowds of
people came to see us take our departure. The
police of the district escorted us beyond their
boundary, and we were soon out of the crowd and
trotting onwards through the principal streets of


Chap. VIII.
135
STRAW SHOES.
the town. On the way home I observed that our
road was strewed with straw shoes which had been
worn by men and horses. All the horses wear
shoes of straw, which, when worn out, are replaced
by others, the old ones being left on the road where
they are cast off.


13G
Chap. IX.
INCREASE OF COLLECTIONS.
CHAPTER IX.
Leave Yedo — Mendicant nuns — Hace of execution — Its appearance
in the days of Kaempfer — Visit to a famous temple — Field crops
by the way — Begging priests — Pear-trees — Holy water — Temple
of Tetstze — Its priests and devotees — Inn of " Ten Thousand Cen-
turies"— Kind reception — Waiting-maids and refreshments —
Scenes on the highway — Relieved from my yakoneen guard —
New plants added to my collections — Names of the most valuable
— Ward's cases, their value — Plants shipped for China — Devout
wishes for their prosperous voyage.
While engaged in making observations on the
city of Yedo and the country around it, I had been
daily adding to my collections of new trees and
shrubs. Now and then a bit of ancient lacquer-
ware, or a good bronze, took my fancy, and was
carefully put by. The gardens I have already
described were visited frequently, and each time
something new was discovered and brought away.
Mr. J, G. Veitch, the son of one of our London
nurserymen, had also been in Yedo, endeavouring
to procure new plants for his father, and conse-
quently our wants in this way were generally
known amongst the people. Almost every morn-
ing, during my stay at the Legation, collections of
plants were brought for sale, and it was seldom
that I did not find something amongst them of an


Chap. IX.
137
MENDICANT NUNS.
ornamental or useful character that was new to our
English gardens. This, however, could not last for
ever; and the time came when I had apparently
exhausted the novelties in the capital of Japan.
Baskets were now procured, in which the plants
were carefully packed and sent down by boat to
Yokuhama, where Ward's cases were being made,
in which they were to be planted and sent home to
England.
On the 28th of November I left the hospitable
quarters of the English minister, on my return to
Kanagawa. I returned by the way I came—along
the Tokaido, or great highway of Japan. Again
we passed through the scenes I have already de-
scribed: beggars on the wayside, mendicant priests,
Bikuni or begging nuns, travelling musicians,
coolies carrying manure as in China, lumbering
carts * and pack-horses, and travellers of all ranks,
were met and passed on the road.
Here are some Bikuni, or mendicant nuns,
sketched on the spot by my friend Dr. Dickson.
Ksempfer gives us the following description of
this religious order :—" They live under the pro-
tection of the nunneries at Kamakura f and Miaco,
to which they pay a certain sum every year, of
what they get by begging, as an acknowledgment
of their authority. They are, in my opinion, much
the handsomest girls we saw in Japan.- The
* Carts are used extensively all over the city and suburbs of Xedo,
but are not met with on country roads,
t Kamakura. See Chap. XIV.


138
Chap. IX.
MENDICANT NUNS.

Blkuni or Mf nrticjint Nuns.
daughters of poor parents, if they be handsome and
agreeable, apply for and easily obtain this privi-
lege of begging in the habit of nuns, knowing that
beauty is one of the most persuasive inducements
to.generosity. The Jamabo, or begging mountain
priests, frequently incorporate their own daughters
with this religious order, and take their wives from
among these Bikuni. Some of them have been bred
up as courtezans, and, having served their time,
buy the privilege of entering into this religious
order, therein to spend the remainder of their youth-
and lieauty. They live two or three together, and
make an excursion every day a few miles from their


Chap. IX.
139
PLACE OF EXECUTION.
dwelling-house. They particularly watch people of
fashion, who travel in norimons, or in kangos, or
on horseback. As soon as they perceive somebody
coming they draw near and address themselves, not
all together, but singly, every one accosting a gen-
tleman by herself, and singing a rural song; and if
he proves very liberal and charitable, she will keep
him company and divert him for hours. . . . They
wear a large hat to cover their faces, which are
often painted, and to shelter themselves from the
heat of the sun."
A number of shops, established for the sale of
sea-shells, were observed on the road-side, but they
did not contain many species of interest. Dried
fruits for sale were numerous and plentiful, such as
oranges, pears, gingko-nuts (Salisburia adianti-
folid), capsicums, chesnuts, and acorns. The fruit
of Gardenia radicans is used here as a yellow
dye, in the same way as in China. Amongst
vegetables I noticed carrots, onions, turnips, lily-
roots, ginger, gobbo (Arctium gobbo), nelumbium-
roots, Scirpus tuberosus, arums, and yams. Fish
of excellent quality was exposed for sale in large
quantities.
A little way out of Sinagawa my yakoneens
pointed out the place where criminals are executed.
It is an uninviting-looking piece of ground close
by the highway. I find that Kaempfer notices the
same spot as observed by the Dutch embassy up-
wards of two hundred years ago. Near to Sina-
gawa they passed "a place of public execution,


140
Chap. IX.
BUDDHIST TEMPLE.
offering a show of human heads and bodies, some
half putrefied and others half devoured—dogs,
ravens, crows, and other ravenous beasts and birds,
uniting to satisfy their appetites on these miserable
remains." On the present occasion I did not notice
any of these revolting sights, and it is to be hoped
that the Japanese have, like ourselves, become less
addicted to judicial bloodshedding than they were
at the time of Kxempfer's visit. It will be remem-
bered that such exhibitions were not uncommon
amongst Western nations at a later period even
than that alluded to.
When we had crossed the river Loga we put up
our horses at the inn of " Ten Thousand Centuries,"
and proceeded on foot to visit a famous Buddhist
temple situated about a mile and a half from the
ferry. Our road led us through fields and gardens,
all in a high state of cultivation. Rice appeared
to be the staple summer crop of the low land of
this district. Many gardens of pear-trees were also
seen on the road-side. The branches of these trees
were trained horizontally when about five or six
feet from the ground, sometimes singly in the
shape of a round table, or in groups in the form of
an arbour. The branches are supported by a rude
trelliswork of wood. The pear of the district is a
pretty round brown kind, good to look upon, but
only fit for kitchen use. There are no fine melting
pears in Japan; at least none came under my
notice during my stay in the country. On the
roadside there were many little shops in which tea


Chap. IX.
141
BUDDHIST TEMPLE.
and dried fruits were exposed to tempt the weary
pilgrim on his way to worship at the temple.
Begging priests were also passed, ready to bestow
prayers and blessings on the heads of those who
gave them alms.
As we approached the sacred building, one of
my yakoneens ran before to announce our arrival.
On entering the main gateway there was a tank of
holy water on our right hand. Every devotee, on
entering, visits the holy well, and sprinkles himself
with water before he enters the temple. For this
privilege he pays a small sum, the amount expected
being in accordance with the means of the giver.
In most cases the poor give only a few cash of the
country, about the value of a farthing of our
money. My attendant yakoneens did not fail to
perform the ceremony like good Buddhists, after
which we ascended the broad flight of steps which
led up to the main hall of the temple. Many native
visitors came in while we were there, and each one,
as he reached the door of the edifice, was observed
to bow low before its altars, and to mutter some
prayers. Inside there were a number of priests of
the Buddhist faith, who had evidently an eye to
the good things of this world, and who were busily
engaged in selling books and pictures connected
with the temple to the ignorant and superstitious
who came to worship at its altars. The temple itself
appeared to be a strong aud massive structure.
Huge paper lanterns were hanging from the roof,
and a few Buddhist deities were observed on the


Chap. IX.
143
SCENES ON THE HIGHWAY.
But the best of friends must part at last, so I was
obliged to bid adieu to mine host and his fair
waiting-maids of the "Ten Thousand Centuries,"
and pursue my way to Kanagawa. Nothing par-
ticularly worthy of notice presented itself during
the remainder of my journey. The same motley
groups and queer-looking travellers were met and
passed on the highway; dogs barked, and children
ran out of the houses to look at the foreigner, and
to cry out, as loudly as their little lungs would

Is-urwry Maids.
permit, "Anato, Ohio." The number of little girls,
each having a child tied on her back, was one of
the most amusing sights during our progress. As
these ran hobbling along, and the little heads of


144
Uhap. IX.
DEPARTURE OE THE GUARD.
the children bobbed about, in danger apparently of
being shaken off, one could not help laughing.
On reaching the temple in Kanagawa, in which my
quarters were, my yakoneen guard informed me
that their presence was no longer necessary, and I
was free again to roam about by myself in any
direction I pleased. I must confess that, however
highly honoured I had felt during my visit to Yedo,
by having a mounted armed guard attending me
wherever I went, yet the departure of the yako-
neens was a decided relief, and greatly did I enjoy
a return to my former lowly estate.
Mr. M'Donald, of Her Majesty's Legation in
Yedo, from whom I had received much kindness
and assistance, had been good enough to forward
my collection of plants in boats to Kanagawa, and
these arrived in safety. My guide Tomi had been
employed during my absence in making collections
of seeds and plants; but I am bound to confess that,
according to the accounts I received of his pro-
ceedings during my absence, it appeared his fa-
vourite saki had had more attractions for him than
natural history. As I had now secured living
specimens and seeds of all the ornamental trees and
shrubs of this part of Japan which I was likely to
meet with at this season of the year, the whole
were removed across the bay to Yokuhama, and
placed for safety in Dr. Hall's garden, until Ward's
cases were ready for their reception.
The collection which had been got together at
this time was a most remarkable one. Never at


Chap. IX.
145
NEW PLANTS OBTAINED.
any one time had I met with so many really fine
plants, and they acquired additional value from the
fact that a great portion of them were likely to
prove suitable to our English climate. Amongst
conifers there was the beautiful parasol fir (Scia-
dopitys verlicellata), Thujopsis dolabrata, Retinospora
obtusa and R. pisifera, Nageia ovata, several new
pines and cypresses, and varieties of almost all
these species having variegated leaves.
Amongst other shrubs there was a charming
species of Eurya, having broad camellia-looking
leaves, beautifully marked with white, orange, and
rose colours; a pretty variegated Daphne; several
species of privets, yews, hollies, box, and ferns. Tn
addition to these there were two or three new spe-
cies of Skimmia—shrubs which bear sweet-scented
flowers, and become covered with red berries, like
the holly, during winter and spring; a palm with
variegated leaves, a noble species of oak, some
new Weigelas, and a number of curious chry-
santhemums.
This list of beautiful trees and shrubs, all new to
English gardens, may appear a long one, yet I
must add to it several representatives of other two
genera which are particularly worthy of notice.
The first is a shrub or small tree called Osmanthus
aquifolius. This genus is closely allied to the olive;
it produces sweet-scented white flowers, and has
dark-green prickly leaves like the holly. Curiously
enough, the leaves on the upper branches and
shoots of the Osmanthus are produced without
L


146
Chap. IX.
THE AUCUBA.
spines, exactly as we see on old holly-trees. All
the species of Osmanthus have variegated varieties
in Japan, many of which are very beautiful objects
for garden decoration.
The other genus to which I would call attention
is the well-known Aucuba. In Europe we know
only the variegated variety of Aucuba joponica,
which is one of the most useful of our evergreens,
inasmuch as it is perfectly hardy in our climate,
and flourishes even in the smoke of large towns
where our indigenous shrubs refuse to live. But
in the shaded woods near the capital of Japan I
met with the true species of Aucuba japonica, of
which the variegated one of our gardens is, no
doubt, only a variety. This species has beautiful
shining leaves of the brightest green, and becomes
covered, during the winter and spring months,
with bunches of red berries, which give it a pretty
appearance. In fact, the Aucuba of the woods near
Yedo is the "Holly of Japan." I frequently met
with hedges formed of this plant, which were very
ornamental indeed. In the woods there are
numerous varieties of both sexes, some of which
show the faintest traces of variegation, while others
are nearly as much marked as the Aucubas found
in our English gardens. In addition to the
Aucubas found in a wild state, I had, in this col-
lection, several garden varieties, with distinct and
beautiful variegation, and the male plant of our
common garden species, to which I have alluded
in an earlier chapter, the introduction of which is


Chap. IX. DIFFICULTY OF TRANSPORTING PLANTS. 147
likely to add much to the beauty and interest of
that useful shrub, inasmuch as we may now expect
to have it covered, during winter and spring, with
a profusion of crimson berries.
Many other species of interest might be named
in the collection which I had now got together,
but the above will suffice to show how fruitful the
field for selection had been in and near the capital
of Japan. From the list which I have given, no
one will be surprised when he hears others tell of
the lovely sylvan scenery of the Japanese islands.
I have already endeavoured to give a faint idea of
such scenery; and it was now my intention to
transfer to Europe and America examples of those
trees and shrubs which produce such charming
effects in the Japanese landscapes.
But the latter part of the business was no easy
matter. To go from England to Japan was easy
enough; to wander amongst those romantic valleys
and undulating hills was pleasure unalloyed; to
ransack the capital itself, although attended by an
armed guard, was far from disagreeable; and to
get together such a noble collection as I have just
been describing was the most agreeable of all.
The difficulty—the great difficulty—was to trans-
port living plants from Yedo to the Thames, over
stormy seas, for a distance of some 16,000 miles.
But, thanks to my old friend Mr. Ward, even this
difficulty can now be overcome by means of the
well-known glass cases which bear his name.
Ward's cases have been the means of enriching
l 2


148
Chap. IX.
WARD'S CASES.
our parks and gardens with many beautiful
exotics, which, but for this admirable invention,
would never have been seen beyond those countries
to which they are indigenous.
In a foreign country, however, even Ward's
cases cannot be made without some difficulty.
The carpenter who contracted to make the frame-
work of the cases would have nothing to do with
the glazing, because he did not understand it. A
Dutch carpenter, residing in Yokuhama, under-
took to do the glazing, but unfortunately broke his
diamond and could not procure another to cut the
glass! Luckily, however, these difficulties were
got over at last, and a sufficient number of cases
were got ready to enable me to carry the collection
on to China. The steam-ship 'England,' Captain
Dundas, being about to return to Shanghae, I
availed myself of the opportunity to go over to
that port with my collections, in order to ship them
for England, there being as yet no means of send-
ing them direct from Japan. Mr. Yeitch had
also put his plants on board the same vessel, so
that the whole of the poop was lined with glass
cases crammed full of the natural productions of
Japan. Never before had such an interesting and
valuable collection of plants occupied the deck of
any vessel, and most devoutly did we hope that
our beloved plants might be favoured with fair
winds and smooth seas, and with as little salt
water as possible—a mixture to which they are
not at all partial, and which sadly disagrees with
their constitutions


Chap. X.
ADIEU TO YOKUHAMA.
CHAPTEK X.
Adieu to Yokuhama — Views of Mount Fusi— The Kiuo Channel and
Inland Sea — Presents for the Queen — The port of Hiogo and
town of Osaca — Important marts for trade — Good anchorage —
Crowds of boats — Islands — Charming scenery — Daimios' castles
— Towns and villages — Gorgeous sunset — Village of Ino-sima —
Terraced land — " The pilot's home " — Biver-like sea — Scenes on
shore — Clean and comfortable houses — Fortress of Meara-sama
— Visit of officials — Their manners and customs—Gale of wind
— Extraordinary harbour — Southern Channel — Ship ashore —
Two Jonahs on board — Nagasaki in winter — Arrival at Shanghae
— Plants snipped for England.
On the 17th of December, 1860, the good steam-
ship 'England,' in which I was passenger,
weighed anchor and proceeded to sea. The wind,
which had been blowing a gale the day before,
was now light and fair, so that we were able to
crowd on all sail and made rapid progress. The
headlands which had lately been christened as
"Mandarin Bluff" and " Treaty Point," were soon
passed, and the pretty little towns of Yokuhama
and Kanagawa were lost to our view in the
distance. In the afternoon we passed Cape
Sagami and the volcanic islands at the entrance
of the Bay of Yedo, and were once more in the
great Pacific Ocean. Cape Idsu—that stormy


150
Chap. X-
THE HOLY MOUNTAIN.
cape, the dread of mariners, but which, I am bound
to say, has as yet treated me kindly—was also
passed, and then darkness set in, and the fair land
of Nipon was hidden from our eyes.
On the following morning I was up and on
deck before sunrise, and was well rewarded by
the beauty of the scene. Landward, Fusiyama,
or the " Holy Mountain," was seen towering high
above all the other land, covered with snow of the
purest white, and its summit already basking in the
rays of the morning sun, although that luminary had
not yet shown himself to the denizens of our lower
world. Sailors and passengers alike looked often
and long upon that lovely mountain, and it was
with regret we watched it gradually disappear
from our view and sink in the horizon.
In the afternoon of this day we were abreast of
Cape Oo-sima, and soon afterwards entered the
Kino Channel, which lies between the islands of
Sikok and Nipon, and leads into the Inland Sea.
A reference to the map of Japan will give a better
idea of the position of this sea than any description.
No foreign vessel, except ships of war or transports,
had been allowed to navigate its waters, and, as it
had not been surveyed, it was necessary, in all cases,
to obtain pilots from the Japanese Government
before attempting the passage. The 'England'
was not a ship of war nor in any way connected
with the Government, and, in ordinary cases, would
not have been permitted to pass through the
sacred waters of the Inland Sea. But as Captain


Chap. X.
151
PRESENTS FOR THE QUEEN.
Dundas and his passengers were all anxious to
view the beautiful scenery of which they had
often heard, a request was sent to the authorities
for permission and pilots, backed by the follow-
ing powerful reasons. Her Majesty the Queen of
Great Britain had presented a handsome steam-
yacht to the Tycoon of Japan, and the latter
had made a selection of lacquer-ware, paper
screens, swords, and a variety of other articles,
to send to Her Majesty in return. Now, although
the good ship 'England' was not a "man of
war," and had no great warrior amongst her
crew and passengers, yet she had on board the
presents for the Queen, and on that account was
surely entitled to all the honours of a ship of war.
Besides, she might be wrecked if exposed to the
stormy waters of the North Pacific Ocean, the
presents might be damaged or lost, and that was
an additional reason why she ought to be allowed
to take the smooth-water passage. The propriety
and prudence of the course suggested was perceived
at once by the authorities, and pilots were  granted
forthwith.
As the night was calm and clear, we steamed
onwards slowly, and found ourselves in the morn-
ing on the eastern side of the island of Awadji, or
Smoto as it is called in some English charts. There
is a passage on the south-east side of this island,
but in its centre is a dangerous whirlpool, which
all mariners carefully avoid. We therefore took
the northern passage. As daylight was breaking


152
Chap. X.
INLAND SEA — HIOGO.
the ship got ashore on a bank of soft mud. Our
Japanese pilots appeared to be steering right on
to the island, thinking, no doubt, that the wonder-
ful English vessel, that went along without sails
or paddles, could pass over land and villages as
easily as she could plough the waters of the deep
sea. Without much difficulty we got the ship
afloat again, and proceeded on our voyage, but our
confidence in the knowledge of our pilots was
considerably lessened. Going onward in a north-
westerly direction, we approached the entrance to
the bay of Hiogo and Osaca.
This beautiful Inland Sea was greenish in colour
and smooth as a mill-pond. In the direction of
the towns just mentioned it was studded with the
white sails of small junks, showing that this portion
of the Japanese islands must be densely populated.
Fishing-boats were seen in all directions busily
employed in securing food for the teeming popula-
tion; and pleasani^looking villages and Daimios'
castles were observed scattered along the shores of
the bay.
The town of Hiogo, which is the seaport of the
imperial city of Osaca, is one of the ports which,
according to the treaty, should be opened to foreign
trade in 1863; and from all accounts it is likely to
prove the most important place in Japan. Kaemp-
fer, who passed through Osaca about 170 years
ago, tells us that he found it "extremely populous,
and, if we can believe what the boasting Japanese
tell us, can raise an army of eighty thousand


Chap. X.
153
OSACA.
men among its inhabitants. It is the best trading
town in Japan, being extraordinarily well situated
for carrying on commerce, both by land and water.
This is the reason why it is so well inhabited by
rich merchants, artificers, and manufacturers. . . .
Whatever tends to promote luxury, or to gratify
sensual pleasures, may be had at as easy a rate
here as anywhere, and for this reason the Japanese
call Osaca the universal theatre of pleasures and
diversions. Plays are to be seen daily, both in
public and private houses; mountebanks, jugglers
who can show artful tricks, and all the raree-show
people who have either some uncommon or mon-
strous animal to exhibit, or animals taught to play
tricks, resort thither from all parts of the empire,
being sure to get a better penny here than any-
where else." In proof of this demand for luxuries
in Osaca, Ksempfer tells us that the Dutch East
India Company "sent over from Batavia, as a
present to the Emperor, a casuar, a large East
India bird who would swallow stones and hot coals.
This bird having had the ill luck not to please our
rigid censors the governors of Nagasaki, and we
having thereupon been ordered to send him back to
Batavia, a rich Japanese assured us that, if he
could have obtained leave to buy him, he would
have willingly given a thousand taels for him, as
being sure, within a year's time, to get double that
money by showing him at Osaca."
Hiogo and Osaca were visited by Mr. Alcock in
the summer of 1861, and his despatch to Earl


154
Chap. X.
OSACA.
Russell fully confirms Kaempfer's account. "The
approach to Hiogo is good and easy, the anchor-
age secure; the navigation to Osaca for cargo-
boats short and easy also, not more than four or
five miles from the bay, though some fifteen from
Hiogo, which is to Osaca what Kanagawa is to
Yedo. Only this last is a capital filled chiefly with
Daimios and their retainers—dominant classes,
which consume much and produce nothing, and
are decidedly hostile to foreign commerce, as
diminishing their own share and endangering its
easy and secure appropriation; while Osaca is a
great mercantile centre, situated on a plain inter-
sected by twenty branches of a river, and spanned
by innumerable bridges, some of them 300 paces
across; with this great advantage (above all others)
over Yedo, that, although an imperial city, it is
comparatively free from the two-sworded genera-
tion of locusts and obstructives. There are a large
number of Daimios' residences, occupying more
than a league of the river's banks, but I fancy
these are seldom occupied, or only temporarily, by
their owners. Immense activity reigns every-
where; and although it was difficult to make much
way in finding out the true prices, with yakoneens
whose business it was to mislead us and fill their
own pockets, I saw enough. to satisfy myself that,
if anything like free interchange could once be
established, this would supply a market more than
equal in importance to all the other ports com-
bined."


Chap. X.
155
MARTS FOR TRADE.
It would appear, therefore, that the towns of
Hiogo and Osaca are likely to be places of con-
siderable importance in a mercantile point of view.
In situation these towns possess great advantages.
They are in the central and most populous part of
the empire, are easily approached from the sea,
and there is good anchorage for ships in Hiogo
Bay, or the Gulf of Osaca. Moreover, Osaca is
only a day's journey from Miaco, the residence of
the spiritual Emperor, and the sacred capital of
Japan. Thunberg left Osaca by torchlight in the
morning, and reached Miaco the same evening.
He says, "Except in Holland, I never made so
pleasant a journey as this with regard to the
beauty and delightful appearance of the country.
Its population, too, and cultivation, exceed all
expression. The whole country on both sides of
us, as far as we could see, was nothing but a fer-
tile field; and the whole of our long day's journey
extended through villages, of which one began
where the other ended." These ports are not only
placed in a most favourable position for commerce,
but they also swarm with merchants; and they
have few of those idle, two-sworded gentry, who
are the curse of Tedo, and who will render that
capital unsafe as a residence for foreigners cer-
tainly during the lives of the present generation.
The great tea-producing districts of Japan are also
situated in this part of the country, a circumstance
which will render these ports of considerable value
to the foreign merchant. In fact, if we can rely


156 COAST SCENERY. Chap. X.
upon the statements of Kaempfer, Thunberg, and
other travellers—and their statements would seem
to be confirmed in Mr. Alcock's despatch which I
have just quoted—Osaca appears to be to Japan
what Soo-chow was to China in the days before the
rebellion, and what it may one day become again
—namely, the great emporium of trade and luxury.
As we were not at this time bound for Hiogo or
Osaca, we did not proceed further up the bay, but,
bearing southward through a narrow strait between
the islands of Awadji and Nipon, we soon reached a
wider part of the sea. As we steamed along, the
scenery was very lovely and enjoyable. A calm
and glassy sea was skirted on each side by hills
of various heights from 800 to 2000 feet, some-
times apparently rugged and barren, and some-
times covered with trees and brushwood. Thick
clouds of morning mist rested here and there for a
while amongst the hills and sometimes on the water,
and then became dispersed, allowing us to view
the charming scenery, which for a time had been
obscured. Fishing-boats were swarming in all
directions, and their pretty white sails added not
a little to the beauty of the scenery. The excite-
ment experienced by the passengers, and even by the
sailors, was something most unusual; sketch-books,
pencils, and journals were all in great request, and
impressions were produced upon us all which wall
not easily be forgotten.
We were now in what is called the Harama-nada
Sea. It gradually widens until the distance be-


Chap. X.
157
ISLANDS IN THE SEA.
tween the two shores—that is, between the islands
of Nipon and Sikok—is about thirty miles. Our
course lay nearer the eastern than the western side
of the passage. In the afternoon we came to a
group of islands, through which we sailed until the
evening. Some of these are remarkable for their
peculiar forms. One named Ya-sima had a rocky
summit, giving it the appearance of a huge camel
kneeling to receive its load. Viewed from a dif-
ferent point, it looked like the ruins of an
ancient castle. Another, called the Che-se-Fusi,
or Little Fusiyama, was a remarkable representa-
tion, although in miniature, of its snow-capped
namesake. Both these islands will no doubt prove
valuable landmarks to mariners in this sea, as
they have probably been for ages past to the
Japanese.
The scenery in this part of the sea was quite
a panorama—ever shifting as we sailed onwards.
Now we opened up a beautiful bay, with a fishing
village on its shores, and terraced cultivation
extending a short way up the side of the hills.
Losing sight of this, other islands, bays, and
coves came constantly into view to charm and de-
light the eye. In one flat valley on our left we
had a good view of a town of considerable size, in
which a Daimio of great power resided and reigned
supreme. His castle appeared to be strongly forti-
fied, and had numerous watch-towers on its walls.
These castles are apparently numerous in all parts
of the empire, for many of them were seen on the


158
Chap. X.
ISLANDS IN THE SEA.
shores of the "Inland Sea" during our passage
through it.
Although the scenery through which we had
passed had been most picturesque and beautiful,
yet the land did not appear to be rich or fertile.
With the exception of little patches of terraced-
work near the sea-shore, the ground seemed in a
state of nature where the hand of the agriculturist
had never ventured to turn over the soil. Rocks,
apparently of granite and" clay-slate, with red
barren earth, were seen everywhere in patches
amongst the scanty vegetation of stunted fir-trees.
Perhaps in spring, or during the rainy season,
when the hills are green, these islands may not
present such a barren appearance; and no doubt,
as in China, the interior may be rich and fertile,
although the land is barren near the sea-shore. But
though not rich in an agricultural point of view,
the strange and romantic hills and valleys, the
rugged rocks, and those sights of nature "stern
and wild," contrasted with towns and villages
nestled in snug coves, and basking on the shores
of this beautiful "Inland Sea," made more than
one of our little party express a wish to be set on
shore, and to become a "hermit of the glade"
for the remainder of his days amongst such
scenery.
I was rather disappointed in the number of
trading-junks and fishing-boats seen during the
day. The weather was fine, and there was nothing
to keep them in their anchorages near the shore








Chap. X.
161
SCENES ON SHORE.
ceased, and beyond all was barren or in a state of
nature. One of our pilots informed us that he
was a native of this place, and it was sketched
immediately and romantically called "The Pilot's
Home."
Our passage during the morning of this day had
been straight and broad, and of easy navigation,
even for a sailing vessel; but about 1 p.m. we
entered a pass between some islands which was
certainly not more than half a mile in width.
Here the scenery was very remarkable, and perhaps
the finest we had yet seen. Pretty villages,
temples, and farm-houses were observed on every
side of us. Now and then we passed a fertile
valley, in a high state of cultivation, stretching
far back amongst the hills. The houses, too,
seemed to be nicely thatched and tiled, and had an
air of comfort and cleanliness about them rarely
seen in oriental countries. We appeared to be
sailing down some smooth river, which every now
and then widened or narrowed according to the
formation of the land. Around us there were hills
and mountains, of various heights and of every
conceivable form. The lowest rose but a few feet
above the water, while the highest seemed fully
two thousand feet high. Here and there, in our
progress, I observed a column of stone erected
upon the top of a sunken rock to warn the
mariner of the hidden danger. On one of the
banks of this river-like sea a broad road was ob-
served skirting the beach under an avenue of


162
Chap. X.
PORTRESS OP MEARA-SAMA..
trees. Our pilots informed us that this was a por-
tion of the Tokaido, or imperial highway, which
leads all the way from Yedo to Nagasaki. Some-
times the sea appeared completely land-locked, and
resembled a lake with its bays and inlets; at
other times it had the river-like appearance I have
already noticed. Some of us compared it to Loch
Lomond, Loch Katrine, or the Kiles of Bute; but,
although probably it had a partial resemblance to
all these places in the Scottish Highlands, yet it
had a character peculiarly its own.
In the afternoon we had a good view of the
castle and fortress of Meara-sama, situated at the
head of a deep bay. This castle is said to be
remarkable in Japan for its great strength. It is
supposed to be one of the strongest in the empire,
and perfectly impregnable. A massive sea-wall
was built along the sea-shore; while behind this
wall were seen castles, turrets, and watchtowers,
inhabited by this feudal chief and his numerous
retainers. Leaving this bay and its stronghold on
our right and to the westward, our course led us in
a more southerly direction, the channel still narrow
and winding. This part continued as populous as
that which I have already noticed when we entered
the "narrows," and large villages, composed of
comfortable-looking houses—not densely packed
together, but divided by fields and gardens—were
everywhere seen along the shores.
In the evening we passed out into a wider part
of the sea, and anchored for the night at a place


Chap. X. VISIT OP OFFICIALS. 163
called Metari. Boats in large numbers, filled with
wondering natives, had been sculling round us to
get a sight of the ship that went ahead without
wind or sails, and of the strange beings from some
far-off foreign land who crowded her deck. While
we were sitting at dinner, and speaking of the
strange and beautiful scenery through which we
had passed during the day, a messenger came on
board to inform us that the high officers of the
place were coming off to pay us a visit. In a few
minutes three quiet, modest-looking individuals
were ushered into the cabin, and led up to the
head of the table, where Captain Dundas was
seated. They wanted to know whence we came,
what we wanted, and whither we were bound—aH
of which questions, with many others, were an-
swered to their entire satisfaction. They were
then politely offered wine, biscuits, and sundry
other things which were upon the table. Each of
them tasted what was set before him, and then,
pulling out a piece of paper, wrapped up in it the
remainder of the solids, and thrust the parcel into
his wide sleeve. Such is the custom of the coun-
try, and such is termed politeness in Japan. A
numerous retinue of servants attended these high
officials, all of whom were delighted with what was
given to them, and begged for more! As these
gentry took their departure, they intimated to us
that an officer of a yet higher rank than theirs was
coming on board. This personage presented him-
self soon afterwards, and, giving his swords to an
M 2


164
Chap. X.
A GALE.
attendant, walked up to the head of the table as
the others had done. The ceremony of questioning,
drinking, eating, and pocketing was gone through
a second time, and then, with many low bows and
expressions of thanks, the great man and his at-
tendants took their departure for the shore.
Dec. list.—We weighed anchor this morning as
usual at daylight. We were now in what is called
the Suwo-nada Sea. It is wide, has few islands,
and is connected with the Pacific Ocean by a wide
passage known as the Bun-go Channel. We were
too far from the land to note anything worthy of
interest on its shores. This sea is chiefly remark-
able for gales of wind of great violence, owing,
probably, to the Bun-go Channel forming a sort of
funnel between this Inland Sea and the Pacific
Ocean. We were destined to experience one of
these gales on the present occasion. It com-
menced in the morning, and by the afternoon had
increased to a hurricane. The wind was not
steady, but came down in fearful gusts, strong
enough, almost, to blow any one overboard who
ventured on the poop of the vessel. A trysail,
which had been set, was riven from the sheets, and
its block shaken with fearful violence and thrown
into the sea. The scene reminded me of a power-
ful bulldog tearing and shaking a cat, and then
casting it away in anger when he had deprived it
of life. In this state of things the 'England'
made but little headway, and it was determined
that we should look out for a safe anchorage for








Chap. X.
165
EXTRAORDINARY HARBOUR.
the night. We therefore bore up for the main-
land of Nipon, to the westward, and made for a
place called, in Japanese charts, Kamino-saki.
This is a most extraordinary anchorage, and well
worth the attention of those who navigate this sea.
As we approached the land there seemed to be
no shelter except an open bay, protected indeed by
the land on the west, but fully exposed to the
eastward. On nearing the shore, however, we
observed an opening on our left, not more than
sixty yards wide, which looked at first sight almost
artificial, but was merely natural nevertheless, and
which led into a beautiful land-locked harbour.
We steamed through this narrow passage, and
anchored in thirteen fathoms water.
The place in which we now were had all the
appearance of an inland lake, and was protected
from the wind in all directions. On each side of
us two small towns were observed, pleasantly situ-
ated on the banks of the lake, and forming little
crescents along its shores. The houses had white-
washed walls, and appeared to be clean and com-
fortable looking buildings. Little temples also
appeared on the hill-sides, surrounded by pine-
trees; and Buddhist priests were seen about the
doors. Hills filled the background, well-wooded in
some parts, and terraced in others all the way up
to their summits, showing that here the soil was
fertile and productive. Pinus Massoniana seemed
to be the .most common timber-tree in this quarter.
On our approach the whole of the inhabitants of


166
Chap. X.
SOUTHERN STRAIT.
these quiet and secluded villages came out of their
houses to look at the strange He-funy, or fire-ship;
but the water being rather rough, the wind tem-
pestuous, and night closing in, none of them
ventured off from the shore. This evening we
were therefore allowed to dine in peace, and were
not honoured with the presence of yakoneens and
other "high officers" at our table.
Next day our progress was slow, as the gale was
still blowing, and we anchored about eight o'clock
in the evening. At daylight on the following
morning the Southern Strait, which leads out of
the Inland Sea into the Corea Strait and China Sea,
was visible ahead of us, and distant some ten or
twelve miles. A large fleet of junks and boats
was seen coming out from the strait, having, no
doubt, taken shelter during the gale of the pre-
vious days. The entrance to this strait is about
half a mile in width; it is bounded on the north
by the southern end of Nipon, and on the south by
Kiu-siu. Two small towns, one on each side, were
visible on its shores. As we passed along, the
strait widened considerably; and a large town,
named Simone-saki, was observed on our right
hand. A little further on, to the left, the residence
of a Daimio named Korkura was pointed out, and
we met that worthy himself in a painted barge,
going in the direction of Simone-saki.
The scenery in the vicinity of the strait is hilly,
the hills being often conical in form, and covered
with trees and brushwood. Generally the country


Chap. X.
167
THE SHIP ASHORE.
has that barren and uncultivated character which I
have already often alluded to in describing our
voyage down this sea. It presents a striking con-
trast to the volcanic regions near Yedo, where
every inch of land is capable of being profitably
cultivated, although, for some reason, thousands of
acres are lying waste, or covered with brushwood
of little value. But although the shores of the
Inland Sea,—beautiful though they are,—present
a barren aspect to the voyager, yet there must be
many rich valleys amongst these hills capable of
producing abundant crops to supply " the wants of
man and beast." Glimpses of these were caught
as we sailed along the shores, and there must have
been many more which were hidden from our
view. These the streams which flow down from
the mountains irrigate and fertilise, while the
climate of Japan is probably one of the finest in
the world.
Before we got clear of the strait some alarm
was felt owing to the shallowness of the water, and
it must be confessed we had no great confidence in
the knowledge of our pilots. After having had
for some time only three and three-and-a-half
fathoms of water, we suddenly felt an unusual
motion, which old sailors like myself knew to be
an intimation from the ship that she was "hard
and fast ashore." And so it was; we had touched
a bank having only two fathoms of water on it,
which our good ship refused to go over, and from
which she could not recede. Our Japanese pilots


168
Chap. X.
TWO JONAHS ON BOARD.
took the matter very coolly, and told us we should
have to remain in our present position until the
tide rose, when we should have water enough. This
was all very well, and it turned out quite true;
but what if one of those sudden gales for which
this coast is famous had come on in the mean time!
We had no fear for our lives, as we might easily
have reached the shore in boats, but my beautiful
collection of plants, which was on board, I certainly
looked upon as being in the greatest danger.
While matters looked rather gloomy, a good-
natured gentleman came up to me, and "hoped my
collections were insured!"
Although the circumstances in which we were
placed at this time were far from being pleasant,
we could not resist having a good joke with two of
our fellow-passengers. Dr. and Mr.
had both been unfortunate at sea, and had related,
during our voyage, the stories of their various
shipwrecks. On more than one occasion they had
been told that we held them responsible for any
ill-luck that might befall us during the present
voyage; that both of them were evidently Jonahs;
and that, if we chanced to get into danger, they
must be prepared to go overboard in order to
ensure the safety of the ship. When, therefore, all
our efforts to get into deeper water appeared
fruitless, and when the 'England' began to bump
uncomfortably on the ground, an intimation was
conveyed to these gentlemen that their time had
come, and that they had better prepare for the


170
Chap. X.
ARRIVAL AT SHANGHAE.
shores of Japan, and sailed for China. A short
time after we had put to sea I felt some regret at
not having put my plants in the boat on the port
side, which, being to leeward, was less exposed to
spray from the sea. It was lucky, as it turned
out, that no alteration was made, for on the followr
ing day we encountered a heavy gale of wind;
the ship rolled dreadfully; and a quantity of
planks piled on the house in midships gave way,
and carried the long-boat, that hung on the port
side, headlong into the sea! On the 2nd of
January we arrived at Shanghae, where I was
kindly received by Mr. Webb, the worthy suc-
cessor of my old friend the late Mr. Beale.
My time was now fully occupied in repacking
and preparing the plants for the long voyage
which was yet before them. The most important
portion was confided to the care of Captain Taylor,
of the ship 'Tung-yu,' who, a short time before
this, had had the honour to introduce into Europe
the living salamander now in the gardens of the
Zoological Society of London. Captain Taylor
delivered these plants in the most excellent con-
dition. Some of them were exhibited before the
Horticultural Society, at South Kensington, three
days after their arrival in England; and it was
remarked that they looked as if they had been
luxuriating all their lives in the pure air of Bag-
shot, instead of having just been landed from a
sea voyage of sixteen thousand miles.


Chap. XI.
171
RETURN TO JAPAN.
CHAPTEK XL
Return to Japan—Kite-flying at Nagasaki — Spring flowers — Field
crops — Gale of wind in Van Dieman's Strait — Arrive at Yoku-
hama — Insect and shell collecting — Reported difficulty in getting
assistance from the natives — How to manage Orientals — Rare
beetle — Dr. Adams's account of its capture — Curious mode of
catching fish — Visit Kanagawa — Agriculture in spring — Paddy
cultivation — Mode of manuring the land — Winter crops nearly
ripe — Trees and flowers— "The Queen of the Primroses."
In the spring of 1861 I returned to Japan, my
object being to inspect the natural productions of
the country during the spring and summer months,
as I had already done in the autumn and winter.
The steam-ship 'Scotland/ Captain Bell, in which
I had taken my passage, was bound for Kana-
gawa, but called at Nagasaki on her way. The
day of our arrival at Nagasaki was a holiday with
the natives, and all were dressed up in their gayest
clothing. One of the chief sources of amusement
appeared to be kite-flying. In the air above the
town, and all over the country, there was a swarm
of paper kites, which I at first sight mistook for a
flock of seagulls. The kites were generally of a
diamond shape, and were painted in gay colours of
red, white, and blue. In every street, on the
house-tops, on the hill-sides, and in the fields, there


172
Chap. XI.
FIELD-CROPS.
were numbers of both sexes and of all ages thus
amusing themselves, and all seemed gay, contented,
and happy.
There is a famous temple, named Dyto-cutch,
situated on the hill-side above the town, which is
well worth a notice. The view from this place, at
the time of my visit, was extremely beautiful and
full of interest. The whole town, the lake-like
harbour, and the panorama of hills near and far off
lay spread out before me. Many of the plum and
cherry trees were now in full bloom. Most
remarkable amongst them was a double-blossomed
cherry, a variety producing bunches of flowers
nearly as large as noisette roses. This is an orna-
mental tree of the first class. Being spring-time
(April 13th), many other trees were bursting into
flower; the leaves of all were freshly green; and,
as the sun was shining brightly in a clear sky, the
place was most enjoyable.
As the 'Scotland' remained in the harbour for
two days, I had an opportunity of taking an
excursion into the country to note the condition of
its agricultural productions. The barley and
wheat crops were now in ear, and would be fit for
the sickle at the end of the month or the begin-
ning of May. The cabbage-oil plant (Brassica
sinensis) was now in full bloom, and filled the air
with the fragrance of its yellow blossoms. These
winter crops, when ripe, would be removed, and
their places occupied by beans, sweet potatoes,
melons, &c, the summer productions of this part


Chap. XI.
173
VAN DIEMAN'S STRAIT.
of Japan. Most of the low rice-lands had been
lying fallow during the winter, but would soon be
irrigated and prepared for this crop, which is the
staple production in all parts of the East.
On the hill-sides and in gardens numerous vari-
eties of the azalea were in full bloom, but the
largest garden-plants belong to the Azalea varie-
gata tribe,and these were not yet in flower. Kerria
japonica, Prunus sinensis (single and double), camel-
lias, and many other plants identical with those
of China, were also covered with their pretty
blossoms.
Many pleasant and agreeable days might have
been spent at this«time in Nagasaki, but it was
necessary that the good ship 'Scotland' should
"move on." As we passed out of the harbour, I
could well have wished to steer north for the
entrance to the Inland Sea, in order to feast my
eyes once more on its wild and romantic scenery.
But the 'Scotland' had no "Queen's presents" on
board, and as the outer passage, if not the most
agreeable, was the safest in the present state of
our knowledge, and the quickest, we steered in a
southerly direction along the coast of Kiu-siu, for
Van Dieman's Strait. This strait, with its peaked
mountains and active volcanoes, has been noticed
in a former chapter. It seems to be remarkable
for the fearful storms which sweep through it
from the Pacific Ocean. The first time I passed
through we had a very heavy gale, and now,
about the same place, we were doomed to encoun-


174
Chap. XI.
A GALE IN THE STRAIT.
ter another equally severe. In order to get a little
shelter we made for the high land near Cape
Chichakoff. This time I had the advantage of
being in a steamer. As the coast is not well
known, we did not make any attempt to find an
anchorage, but steamed under the high land and
then stopped the engines. A current carried us
slowly to the eastward towards the Pacific, and
the gale told us, in language not to be mistaken,
whenever the ship had drifted beyond the shelter
of the land. Whenever this was felt, steam was
got up, and we moved back again under the
shelter of the Cape. For two days we were
detained by this gale, now drifting outwards with
the current, and now steaming back for the shelter
afforded by the land.
On the evening of the second day the gale
moderated a little, and it was determined to steam
out into the waters of the North Pacific Ocean,
where we spent anything but a pleasant night.
During the next two days we were sailing up
along the land, and passed the Bungo and Kino
channels, which lead into the Inland Sea. On the
morning of the 19th we were abreast of Cape
Idsu, inside of which is the Bay of Simoda and
the town of that name, so long the residence of
Mr. Townsend Harris, the United States Minister.
The weather was now fine, the sea was smooth,
and a considerable number of junks were passed
sailing in the direction of Yedo bay. Still, there
was nothing on this coast like the busy, bustling


Chap. XI. INSECT AND SHELL COLLECTING.
175
scenes which are daily observed in fine weather on
the coast of China. We must have more know-
ledge of the interior of the Japanese islands before
we can say whether this be owing to the less po-
pulous condition of the country or to the habits of
the people. The fact is as I have stated; the
reason of such a difference will, no doubt, be
explained in due time. In the afternoon we were
opposite the islands near the entrance to Yedo bay,
and the same night dropped our anchor abreast of
the town of Yokuhama. I left the ship on the fol-
lowing morning, and took up my residence on
shore.
Besides timber trees and other ornamental
plants suitable to our climate, and likely to prove
valuable in England, I had determined to make a
collection of various other objects of natural his-
tory, particularly insects and land-shells. With
this view I had secured the services of Tunga,
my old Chinese servant, and had brought him over
with me from China to Japan. We were now out
all day long, ransacking every valley and every
hill for the objects we had in view. Tunga soon
picked up a few words of the language of the
country; and, as he was civil and inoffensive in
all his ways, and carried a few cash in his' pocket
to reward those who assisted him, he grew very
popular amongst the country people. When
making collections of insects and shells in China,
we always found it a matter of the first import-
ance to enlist in our service the children about


Chap. XI.
177
RARE BEETLE.
would be paid for their exertions. I had several
sketches of the rare Damaster blaptoides, which
had been given me by Mr. Stevens of Bloomsbury
Street, London. These I distributed amongst
them, and offered a liberal reward for each speci-
men of that remarkable insect. In this way we
soon had hundreds of people of all ages enlisted in
our service. The country round Yokuhama was
divided into districts; each district was visited at
stated times, and, as we were seen approaching
in the distance, the fact was telegraphed from
village to village, and from hill to hill, by the
clear, ringing voices of the children. The diffi-
culty, if it ever existed, had been got over, and
the Japanese proved to be as willing assistants in
my researches as the Chinese had been.
While writing upon the subject of Japanese
insects I take the liberty of quoting a letter pub-
lished in the ' Zoologist' for June, 1860, from my
friend Dr. Adams, of Her Majesty's surveying ship
'Actaeon' on the capture of Damaster blaptoides in
Japan.
"As I am in a good humour, having just fished
up a new genus of mollusca from a pretty good
depth, I will tell you at the risk of being tiresome
all about it, as I am sure Adam White, at least,
will be interested in the narrative.
"I was walking solitarily—for all hands had gone
on board to dinner—along the shell-strewn strand
of Taleu-Sima, a jolly little island, not far from
the shores of Niphon —walking along in a brown


178
Chap. XI.
DR. ADAMS'S CAPTURE OF
study, smoking a little clay cutty-pipe, and think-
ing chiefly of the contempt in which I should be
held if some of my 'very particular' friends saw
me in this very disreputable 'rig,' for my neck
was bare, and my coat was an old blue serge, and
as for my hat, it was brown felt, and, I must say,
a 'shocking bad one.' However, the sun was
bright, the clear blue rippling sea was calm, the
little island was clear and verdurous, and I smoked
serenely. On a sudden my abstract downward
gaze encountered a grotesque Coleopteron in a suit
of black, stalking slowly and deliberately among
the driftwood at my feet—stepping cautiously
over the spillacan twigs, like a Catholic priest in
a crowded thoroughfare. At once I knew my
coleopterous friend to be Damaster blaptoides; for
although my eyes are small, yet I have been
assured by a young lady friend of mine—some-
times irreverently called 'Polly'—that they are
penetrating; and my friend Adam White, when
he warned me not to forget my 'Carabs,' had
sent me a rough outline of the 'corpus' of Da-
master. So I carefully lifted my unresisting sable
friend from his native soil, and, after giving him
a good long stare, I deposited him in a bottle.
From his name and appearances, I judge him to
be cousin to Blaps, and I turned over the rockweed
for his brothers and other relations; but though
Helops was there, Damaster was not. Puzzled, but
not baffled, I conceived his taste might be more
particular, so I ascended the steep green sides of


Chap. XI. DAMASTER BLAPTOIDES.
179
the island, and cast about for rotten trees; nor was
I long in discovering a very promising stump,
nicely decayed, and full of holes enough to capti-
vate the heart of any beetle. Being, however,
fatigued with my scansorial efforts, I sat down
before the citadel of Damaster, and assisted my
deliberations by smoking a solemn pipe. Having
propitiated Nicotiana and matured my plan of ope-
rations, I commenced the work of destruction, when,
lo! among the vegetable debris I descried a long
dusky leg, anon two more, and then, buried among
Damaster blaptoides.
the ruins, the struggling Damaster. In this
manner was the rarest beetle known captured by
a wandering disciple of iEsculapius, and an eccen-
tric Fellow of the Linnsean Society."
I had an opportunity of seeing a portion of
Dr. Adams's treasures on board of the ' Actajon' in
China. In addition to insects, he had a fine collec-
tion of sea-shells, which will prove of great interest
to conchologists in Europe. His cabin was full
of specimens illustrating the natural history of
n 2


180 • MODE OF CATCHING FISH. Chap. XI.
the different Oriental countries which he had visited
in the 'Actaeon.'
After this digression I will proceed with my
narrative. During the last days of April the
sea-shore was lined with natives of both sexes,
who were busily engaged in catching a curious
species of fish, which, it seems, visits these parts
for a few days at this season of the year. The
mode of catching the fish was novel and interest-
ing. Each fisherman had a pair of decoys—that
is, living fish of the same kind as the intended
prey. A long line was attached to each fish,
being fastened to the skin on the top of its head.
The slack of this line was wound up on a piece of
wood, and unrolled at the pleasure of the fisher-
man. Then a net was fastened to, and slung be-
tween, two bamboo poles, these forming the two
sides of a triangle. The third side of the triangle
was open, with the mouth of the net hanging be-
neath it, and in this state it was pushed forward
into the sea. The line was now unrolled, and the
decoys were sent forth into deeper waters, to make
friends with other members of the tribe who were
still free. A sufficient time being allowed for
these gay deceivers to get a congregation around
them and to expatiate on the luxuries of the land,
the fisherman hauls the line gently home until the
decoys and their near friends, who have followed
them, get in the water above his net. The net
is then lifted rapidly upwards out of the water,
and decoys and decoyed are entangled in its


Chap. XI.
181
VISIT TO KANAGAWA.
meshes. The latter are taken out and placed in a
basket on shore, while the former are sent to sea
again in search of new friends.
This mode of fishing lasted for a few days only;
the species in question appeared to come suddenly
on the coast, and as suddenly to take its departure,
first, however, leaving a good supply of its number
to assist in feeding the inhabitants of Yokuhama
and Yedo. It was a curious-looking animal, short,
flabby, and blown up, looking as if it consisted
chiefly of wind and blubber. Some of the natives
said it was poisonous; but, if so, this could be only
in certain conditions, for it was a great favourite
with the Japanese, who cut it up, dried it in the
sun, and preserved it for future use.
One morning towards the end of April I crossed
the bay from Yokuhama to Kanagawa, accompanied
by Mr. Clarke, of the house of Messrs. Dent and Co.,
established here. Our object was to visit some of
the Buddhist temples in that part of the country,
and to examine the vegetable productions and
other objects of interest by the way. Landing at
Kanagawa, we crossed the long, narrow town, and
soon found ourselves in the open country behind
it. The first object which attracted my attention
was the change which had taken place in the ap-
pearance of the fields and the crops since I was last
here. The low rice-lands, which had been lying
fallow since the crop was gathered in November,
were now being dug up, flooded with water, and
manured. In China, bullocks and buffaloes are


Chap. XI.
183
TREES AND FLOWERS.
All countries are beautiful in spring, but Japan
is pre-eminently so. The trees were now clothed
with leaves of the freshest green, and many of the
early flowering kinds were in full blossom. On
every hill-side and in every cottage-garden there
was some object of attraction. The double-blos-
somed cherry-trees and flowering peaches were
most beautiful objects, loaded as they now were
with flowers as large as little roses. Camellias,
forming goodly-sized trees, were common in the
woods, and early azaleas adorned the hill-sides
with flowers of many hues. Here the Azalea ob-
tusa, with flowers of the most dazzling red, was
peculiarly at home. I found this species some
years ago in the gardens of China, but no doubt
its native habitat is Japan, and it requires the
bright sunlight of the East to bring out in perfec-
tion its brilliant colour. Cydonia japonica was
seen in a wild state, creeping amongst the grass,
and covered with red blossoms; violets, often scent-
less, covered every bank; and several varieties
of primrose (Primula cortusoides) were met with
under trees in the shady woods.
The Buddhist temples, always situated in the
most charming positions, and having fine examples
of the trees and shrubs of the country, full grown
and carefully protected, are objects of attraction at
all seasons, but more particularly in spring. We
visited many of these on our route'; all of them
were interesting, and none more so than Bokengee,
a place I had visited when here in the autumn.


184
BOKENGEE VALLEY. Chap. XI.
The Bokengee Valley is a beautiful one; it leads up
between two pretty green bills covered witb brush-
wood, evergreen oaks, and pines. The same
solemn stillness seemed to reign amongst the
temples as I had observed on a former occasion,
broken only at intervals by some priest loudly re-
hearsing his prayers. At the principal entrance of
this temple there are some large examples of the
double-blossomed cherry-tree. One of these was
one mass of bloom, and very handsome it appeared.
The broad cleanly-swept walk below it was covered
with thousands of its petals, which were falling
like thin flakes of snow.
On the 7th of May I left Yokuhama, and crossed
the bay to Kanagawa, where I took up my quarters
in a large temple which had been rented and fitted
up by Messrs. Dent and Co.; but as they had re-
moved their establishment to Yokuhama, it/ was
now unoccupied. Had I searched all Japan I could
not have found a place better fitted for my pur-
suits. I had large rooms and verandahs in which
I could prepare and store my collections of dried
plants, seeds, insects, and shells, while the garden
afforded ample space for the living plants which
I was daily adding to my stores, and hoped
one day to introduce into Europe. A Japanese
porter, a gardener, Tunga, and myself, were the
only occupants of this temple; and I must have
had more confidence in the natives than perhaps
was prudent, foe my doors were never locked,
neither by night nor by day. Itinerant florists


Chap. XI.
185
FLOWERS.
and nurserymen were amongst my daily visitors,
and rarely arrived without bringing me something
which I gladly bought and transferred to my
temple garden.
About the middle of May the now well-known
Paulownia imperialis was in full bloom in the grounds
of a temple adjoining that in which I was located.
Here it forms a tree about thirty feet in height; the
stem is generally bare, but branches out at the top,
and each branch terminates in a spike of large,
lilac, foxglove-like flowers. The varieties of pinks
are numerous and beautiful in this part of Japan,
and they also were in bloom about this time. They
are remarkable for their large blossoms of various
hues, some being of the most brilliant red and
scarlet, while others are coloured much like our
own. The finest poppies I ever saw were met with
in gardens adjoining the Imperial highway. The
Japanese do not smoke opium like their friends in
China, but I believe the seeds of the poppy are
largely used by them for medicinal purposes. The
double-flowering kinds have blossoms of great size,
of many different colours, and are highly orna-
mental.
But the plant remarkable above all others which
were met with at this time, for its great beauty,
was a new primrose.* I shall never forget the
morning on which a basketful of this charming
plant was first brought to my door. Its flowers,
* rrimula japonica.


186 « QUEEN OF THE PRIMROSES." Chap. XI.
of a rich magenta colour, were arranged in tiers,
one above another, on a spike nearly two feet
in height. It was beyond all question the most
beautiful species of the genus to which it belongs,
and will, I doubt not, henceforth take its place as
the "Queen of the Primroses."


Chap. XII.
187
DESIRE TO VISIT YEDO.
CHAPTEE XII.
Invitation from the American Minister to visit Yedo— Inland road —
Nanka-nobu tea-garden — Extraordinary Glycine — Pleasant lanes
and hedges—Civility of the people—Arrive at the American
Legation — Guard and spies — Large tree — Unpleasant diplomatic
correspondence — Nursery gardens in the country visited — Summer
flowers and new plants — Return to Yedo — A ride in the country
— Mr. Heuskin's tomb — " Temple of Twelve Altars "— Poets'
Avenue — How a drunken Japanese makes himself sober — Shoeing
horses — Departure from Yedo — General remarks on the city and
suburbs.
Having ransacked the country in the vicinity of
Yokuhama and Kanagawa, I was very desirous of
paying another visit to the capital. The nursery-
gardens of Sumae-yah and Dang-o-zaka, in which
I had found so many new plants during the pre-
vious winter, had no doubt many others of interest
which could only be judged of in spring or early
summer; but Yedo was a sealed city to all who
were not officials, unless they were specially invited
as guests by their minister at the Court of the
Tycoon. Unfortunately his Excellency Mr. Alcock,
to whom I had been indebted for much kindness
and hospitality on a former occasion, was now
absent in China, and it was generally reported that
no Englishman would be allowed to visit the city
until he returned. Under these circumstances I


188 INVITATION FROM AMERICAN MINISTER. Chap. XII.
was unwilling to make an application to the gentle-
man who had been left in charge of the Legation,
as he might not have the power to grant me my
request, and at the same time it would be disagree-
able, I thought, for him to refuse. What was then
to be done? Mr. Alcock was not expected back
until the end of June, and if I could not visit Yedo
until that time all the spring-flowers would be past,
and the opportunity of adding some plants of in-
terest and value to my collection would be lost.
Most anxious to accomplish the object I had in
view, I wrote to Mr. Townsend Harris, the United
States Minister, and asked him to receive me for a
few days at the American Legation. Mr. Harris
sent me a very kind reply, inviting me to his
house in Yedo, and begging me to remain there as
long as I pleased. Thus far everything went well,
and I was delighted with the opportunity which I
was likely to have of adding to the number of those
useful and beautiful trees and other plants which I
had discovered in Yedo the winter before; but the
sequel will show that things were not destined to
go on quite so smoothly as I had anticipated.
On the 20th of May Mr. Portman and a guard
of yakoneens were sent down to meet me at the
river Loga. I had frequently heard of a beautiful
inland road from Kanagawa to Yedo; and as I had
seen quite enough of the Imperial highway, it was
determined that we should take the new route.
Before striking into the country we paid a visit to
the celebrated tea-house at Omora, which I have


Chap. XII. EXTRAORDINARY GLYCINE.
189
formerly noticed. The large garden attached to
this "Mansion of Plum-trees" was now in great
beauty. The trees were in full leaf, forming shady
walks and avenues where travellers or visitors
could shelter themselves from the sun's rays, which
were now becoming more powerful every day. The
pretty waiting-maids brought us sundry cups of
tea with different kinds of cake. Pleasant, very
pleasant, was that " Mansion of Plum-trees," but it
was necessary to "move on."
Leaving the Tokaido behind us, we took a bridle-
path which led us more inland, and soon after-
wards we struck a broad country road, by which
we journeyed onwards in the direction of the
capital. On our way we called at a place called
Nanka-nobu to see a large specimen of Glycine
sinensis, which was one of the lions in this part of
the country. It was evidently a tree of great age.
It measured, at three feet from the ground, seven
feet in circumference, and covered a space of trellis-
work sixty feet by one hundred and two feet. The
trellis was about eight feet in height, and many
thousands of the long racemes of the glycine hung
down nearly half-way to the ground. One of them,
which I measured, was three feet six inches in
length. The thousands of long, drooping, lilac
racemes had a most extraordinary and beautiful
appearance. People came from far and near to see
the tree during the time it remained in bloom;
and as it was in the garden of a public tea-house,
it brought an extensive custom to the proprietor.


190 PRETTY LANES AND HEDGES. Chap. XII.
Tables and benches were arranged under its shade,
which at the time of our visit were well occupied
with travellers and visitors, all sipping and appa-
rently enjoying the grateful and invigorating
beverage. As the day was cloudless, and the sun's
rays powerful, we were not slow to imitate the ex-
ample they set before us, so we sipped our tea,
smoked a cigar, and admired this beautiful speci-
men of the vegetable kingdom.
Our road during the remainder of our journey
was a very pleasant one, and led us through lanes
fringed on each side with pretty hedges and tall
trees, the latter affording a pleasing shade. Many
little villages and comfortable-looking inns or tea-
houses were passed by the way. Most of these tea-
houses had gardens filled with pretty flowering
plants for the enjoyment of their patrons, and in
more than one of them we noticed a trellis covered
with the Glycine sinensis in full bloom. This trail-
ing tree is evidently a great favourite with the
Japanese, and it well deserves to be so. Every-
where the people seemed most inoffensive and even
friendly, showing a natural curiosity to see the
Tojins (Chinamen or foreigners), as they called us,
and now and then saluting us with the friendly
"Anata, Ohio." Japan would be a pleasant place
to live or travel in were it freed from those bands
of two-sworded idlers which infest the capital,
and render a residence there sometimes far from
agreeable.
As we entered the suburbs of Yedo we met the


Chap. XII. ARRIVAL AT AMERICAN LEGATION. 191
young gentlemen of the English Legation going
out for a ride in the country, followed by a large
number of yakoneens. This was rather an un-
lucky meeting, as it afterwards turned out, although
I had no idea at the time that I had done anything
wrong. A few words were exchanged with those
of them whom I knew, and we parted apparently
good friends. Some one told me afterwards that
the only gentleman in the party unknown to me,
and who it seems had been left in charge of Her
Majesty's Legation, looked very indignant; but as
I did not observe his countenance, I was left in
blissful ignorance of the wrath which he was
"nursing to keep warm" until some hours after-
ward.
We arrived at the American Legation between
five and six o'clock in the afternoon, where I was
most kindly received by his Excellency. Like all
the other foreign ministers in Yedo, Mr. Harris
occupies a large and roomy temple. An avenue
leads up from one of the streets of the town to the
temple. Two noble trees of Salisburia adiantifolia
guard the entrance, and one of them is the largest
specimen of the kind I have yet met with. Its
circumference, about six feet from the ground, is
twenty-eight feet, and it is fully a hundred feet in
height. On one of the sides of this temple there
is the usual cemetery, and behind it is a hill
covered with lofty trees. Then there are the usual
guardhouses filled with armed yakoneens, and a
small, quiet-looking place, which is said to be the


192
DIPLOMATIC CORRESPONDENCE. Chap. XII.
residence of the spy or spies by whom the sayings
and doings of every one in the Legation are duly
chronicled.
While we were sitting at dinner this evening I
received the following letter from Her Majesty's
Legation:—
"As no British subject can visit Yeddo with-
out an invitation from, or the sanction of, Her Bri-
tannic Majesty's Minister, or, in his absence, the
officer in charge of Her Majesty's Legation, from
neither of whom you have received such invita-
tion or sanction, I have to request you will take
your departure from Yeddo without delay.
"I have, &c,
"F. G. Myburgh,
"In charge of H.B.M. Legation."
Early on the following morning I sent a reply
to this letter as follows :—
"I had the honour to receive your letter of
yesterday's date, upon which I beg to make the fol-
lowing observations. I returned to Japan a short
time ago for the purpose of examining the natural
productions of the country during the spring
months, hoping to make some discoveries which
might prove useful at home. For this purpose it
was of great importance that I should be able to
visit the gardens about Yedo. Unfortunately on
my arrival at Kanagawa 1 found Her Majesty's
Minister absent from Yedo, and I was given to


Chap. XII. DIPLOMATIC CORRESPONDENCE. 193
understand that I could not obtain permission
from the officer in charge of the Legation to visit
the city. His Excellency Mr. Alcock has always
shown every disposition to forward my views, and
had he been here I have no doubt he would
willingly have granted the permission I required.
Under the circumstances I wrote to his Excellency
the American Minister, and asked him to grant
me that permission which 1 am sure I would have
received from Her Majesty's representative had
he been in Yedo. Mr. Harris, in the kindest
manner, invited me to his house as his guest, in
order to enable me to accomplish the objects I had
in view.
"With this explanation, I trust you will not
insist on my leaving Yedo for a few days, as it
might be a matter of public regret should I be pre-
vented from adding to our home collection some
new trees or other plants of much interest."
Having despatched this letter, and trusting to
receive a favourable reply, I was furnished with
the usual guard of yakoneens, and we rode out to
visit the nursery-gardens of Sumae-yah and Dang-
o-zaka. We took the same route through the city
which I have fully described in an earlier chapter,
and witnessed the same scenes. The Sumae-yah
gardens, however, presented quite a different ap-
pearance from what they had done in the autumn
before. They had put on their summer dress; the
trees were covered with leaves, and many flower-
o


194
VISIT TO NURSERY GARDENS. Chap. XII.
ing shrubs and herbaceous plants were in full
bloom. Amongst those which interested me most,
because they were new to me, were a beautiful new
oak with large and handsome leaves, several new
maples with leaves beautifully marked with rich
colours, new species of Weigela, clematis, lychnis,
and a variety of Solomon's seal having its leaves
beautifully striped with broad white lines.
The Dang-o-zaka gardens, which were next
visited, were ransacked in the same way. Every
corner was examined, and several new and im-
portant plants were added to my collections which
had not been seen by me during my former visits.
I have already stated that the town of Dang-o-
zaka is in a valley, and very pretty it seemed, with
its clean houses sheltered and adorned by richly-
wooded hills. It is a pretty place at all seasons,
for there are so many pines and other trees that
retain their leaves all the winter, that the woods
may be said to be evergreen. Now, however, the
leaves and flowers of deciduous trees were mixed
up with those of the evergreen oaks and pines, and
formed a pleasing contrast.
As on former occasions, an account of all the
plants I purchased and the sums to be paid for them
was carefully written down by one of my attendant
yakoneens, and no doubt a full and particular
report of my doings was forwarded to the proper
quarter. This system has, however, one great
advantage, and it is this—the most perfect reli-
ance may be placed on the men with whom you


Chap. XII. MR. MYBURGH'S COURTESY. 195
have made your bargains; they will certainly
bring the articles at the time appointed, and will
not attempt to demand more than the sum which
they have agreed to.
As these gardens were very numerous, the whole
day was spent in examining them; and my attend-
ants, long before I had finished, had been giving
me sundry broad hints that it was time to set out
on our return to Yedo. When I had finished my
investigations we mounted our horses and rode
homewards, arriving at the American Legation
before nightfall. Here I found a letter waiting
for me, of which the following is a "true copy :"—
"I beg to acknowledge the receipt of your
letter of to-day, and regret that you have placed
me under the necessity of again writing to you.
I care not to be informed now for what object you
have come to Japan, or that Her Majesty's Minis-
ter would have granted you permission to visit
Yedo had he been here—I only know that you
are a private individual in a private capacity in
this country, and that you have not asked for nor
received the requisite sanction from the British
authority here to come up to Yedo.
"It is of no consequence to me now what you
were given to understand at Kanagawa; but you
must have been well aware that the American
Minister has not the power to grant you, or any
other British subject, permission to visit Yedo. It
was your duty to have communicated with me on
o 2


196 A DEPUTY'S NOTION OF HIS DUTY. Chap. XU.
the subject, but this you had not the common
courtesy to do; and you actually came up to Yedo
without even my knowledge. I think I have said
enough to show you that you have acted in an
improper manner. Whether it would be a matter
of public regret or not your being unable to ac-
complish your private ends, is not a question for
me to consider. I am only performing my public
duty when I call upon you a second time to quit
Yedo at once. To allow you to remain would be
to establish a dangerous precedent.
"I have, &c,
u" F. G. Myburoh."
This communication did not take away my breath
or my appetite for dinner, as, perhaps, it ought to
have done. On the following morning (for I pre-
fer to sleep upon anything disagreeable) I sent
the following reply to the insulting letter I had
received—a reply which I trust will show that,
although only a "private individual," I was inca-
pable of doing anything rude or uncourteous :—
"As I am unwilling to do anything that
may have the slightest appearance of disrespect
to Her Majesty's Legation in Yedo, I shall leave
the city at once—probably this evening, or, at
latest, to-morrow morning. I may have been
wrong in accepting the invitation of [His Excel-
lency the American Minister without first obtain-
ing permission from yourself (although, I believe.


Ch. XII. PENALTY FOR OFFENDING A GREAT MAN. 197
such a proceeding is not without a precedent), but
I had no intention of, and could have no motive
for, treating you with disrespect, as my letter of
yesterday might have shown you. I have there-
fore to complain of the very uncourteous style of
your last letter, which you have thought it your
public duty to address to me as a British subject,
and with this remark I beg to close my corre-
spondence."
It is stipulated in the treaties which the Japan-
ese have made with foreign powers, that no
foreigner, unless he be an official, can proceed
nearer to Yedo than that point where the river
Loga intersects the Imperial highway. But all
the ministers who reside there had been in the
habit of inviting their friends to Yedo, apparently
with the knowledge and sanction of the Japanese
Government. Even English ladies had been there
on several occasions, and had returned highly de-
lighted with their view of the great city. I had,
therefore, no idea that I was committing a heinous
offence in accepting the hospitality of the repre-
sentative of a friendly Power, particularly as it
was well known I had no dangerous political ob-
jects in view. But I was unfortunately a British
subject, and I had come to Yedo (unwittingly, I
must confess) without first bowing the knee to
him who was dressed in a little brief authority. I
have been travelling in Eastern countries for
nearly eighteen years, and I can truly state, that,


198 - MK. HEUSKIN'S TOMB. Chap. XII.
during that long period, I have on every other
occasion received the greatest and most disinter-
ested kindness from every officer in Her Majesty's
service with whom I have come in contact. I
sincerely regret that I have had to mention one
exception, which is perhaps not worth the promi-
nence I have given to it in these pages. Let me
turn, then, to a more agreeable subject.
On the morning after my visit to Sumae-yah
and Dang-o-zaka the different nurserymen pre-
sented themselves at the American Legation, with
the plants I had purchased. Notwithstanding the
shortness of the time I had been allowed to stay,
the collection thus brought together was one of
great interest, and mostly new to science. Orders
were now given to prepare baskets to pack them
in for conveyance to Kanagawa; and while these
were being got ready, Mr. Harris invited me to
accompany him in a ride into the country.
On our way we paid a visit to the grave of
poor Mr. Heuskin, formerly interpreter to the
American Legation, who had been waylaid and
murdered by some Japanese a few months before.
The tomb is placed in a quiet and beautiful spot
on the hill-side amongst some lofty trees. A neat
and substantial monument, with a simple inscrip-
tion, has been placed on the grave by Mr. Harris,
and a hedge of evergreen oak and camellias has
been planted around it by his orders.
Leaving poor Heuskin's grave, we rode on in a
westerly direction for about two hours, taking


Chap. XII. TEMPLE OF TWELVE ALTARS.
199
many a winding path in order to see the more
remarkable portions of this beautiful suburban
scenery, with which Mr. Harris was well ac-
quainted, and of which he was one of the most
enthusiastic admirers. Our destination was a
place called Joo-ne-shoo, or the Temple of the
Twelve Altars. This temple is ' situated in a
wood, and has a waterfall on one side, and a
lake on the other. Numerous tea-houses do a
thriving trade here, as the place is much resorted
to by the good citizens of Yedo. Saki, which is
rather stronger than tea, is also consumed in con-
siderable quantities. Report says that many of
the visitors are particularly fond of composing
and reciting poetry in one of the avenues near
the temple, and that sundry draughts of the
favourite, beverage are taken to brighten the in-
tellect and to excite the imagination. At the
upper end of this avenue there are sundry jets of
water, each having a fall of about six feet, which
are used in a curious way that is worth mention-
ing. It seems that, when the poet or philosopher,
or whoever he may be, has imbibed so much saki
as to render him incapable of further enjoyment—
in fact, when he is what is vulgarly termed
drunk—he gravely proceeds and places his head
under one of these jets of cold water. This has
the effect of making him a more sober, if no.t a
wiser, man, and it enables him to return once
more to the enjoyment of his saki. How often
this system can be repeated in an afternoon with


200
Chap. XII.
SHOEING HORSES.
the same results, I am not informed. It is to be
hoped, however, that it is more beneficial to the
literature of the country than it can be to the con-
stitutions of those who thus enjoy themselves at the
"Temple of the Twelve Altars."
After visiting the waterfall, Poets' Avenue, and
other places of interest, we sat down in one of the
little sheds on the banks of the lake, and refreshed
ourselves with sundry cups of hot tea. We
returned home by a different road, but the same
kinds of beautiful lanes, valleys, country houses,
and gardens were passed as on our way out. A
ride of some six miles brought us again to the
great city, and we were soon threading our way
amongst crowds of human beings, packhorses, and
dust—a striking contrast to that sylvan scenery
which we had just been enjoying.
Mr. Harris related an amusing circumstance
connected with the shoeing of horses in Japan,
which illustrates the ready way in which the
people of the country adopt foreign customs when
seen to be improvements on their own. I have
already had occasion to mention the marked
difference which exists between the Chinese and
the Japanese in this respect. "Oula custom "—
old custom—is the barrier to every foreign intro-
duction in China, while the Japanese adopt with
promptness every improvement which is set before
them. When Mr. Harris first went to reside in
Yedo, his horse was shod with iron shoes in the
usual way. Up to this time the horses of the


Chap. XII.
201
DEPARTURE FROM YEDO.
Japanese either wore straw shoes, or were not
shod at all. One day an officer came to Mr. Harris
and asked him to lend him his horse, and to be
good enough to ask no questions as to the purpose
for which the animal was required. This strange
request was good-humouredly complied with, and
the horse, after being away for a short time, was
duly brought back. The officer to whom it had
been lent came to the American Legation a few
days afterwards, and told Mr. Harris, as a great
secret, that the Prime Minister had sent for the
horse to examine his shoes; and now, he said, the
Minister's horse had been shod in the same way,
and all the horses of the other officers were like-
wise being shod!
As I did not wish to embroil myself in any way
with the authorities of Her Majesty's Legation, I
left Yedo on the following morning, and took the
road to Kanagawa.
In this and in former chapters I have endea-
voured to give a description of the Japanese
capital and suburbs, and I shall now end my ac-
count with a few general observations. Although
Yedo is a large city, and remarkable in many
ways, it cannot be compared with London, Paris,
or any of the chief towns in Europe, either in the
architecture of its buildings, the magnificence of
its shops, or in the value of its merchandize. It
has no "Woolwich or Greenwich—no St. Paul's or
Westminster Abbey—no Champs Elysees or Ver-
sailles; it has nothing to show like the Boulevards


202
GENERAL REMARKS ON YEDO. Chap. XII.
in Paris or like Regent Street in London. Indeed
the habits and wants of the people are so different
from those of European nations, that we have
little in common for a comparison. But, never-
theless, Yedo is a wonderful place, and will always
possess attractions peculiarly its own in the eyes of
a foreign visitor. It is of great size for an Ori-
ental city; its palace surrounded by deep moats
and grassy banks, the official quarter, the resi-
dences of the native princes, its wide streets, and
beautiful bay will always be looked upon with a
certain degree of interest. Then, the views which
are obtained from the hills in its neighbourhood
are such as may well challenge comparison with
those of any other town in Europe or elsewhere.
Its suburbs, too, as I have already shown, are
remarkable in many ways. Those beautiful val-
leys, wooded hills, and quiet lanes fringed with
noble trees and evergreen hedges, would be diffi-
cult to match in any other part of the world.


Chap. XIII.
203
RETURN TO KANAGAWA.
CHAPTER XIII.
Return to Kanagawa — Moxa and Acupuncture — Mode of performing
these operations—Their supposed value — Prospects of better
medical and surgical knowledge in Japan — Roadside altar —
Ladies at their prayers — The conclusion of the ceremony — Field
crops and spring flowers at the end of May — Commencement of
rains — Beautiful rainbow — A violent earthquake — Burning
rape-stalks for manure — An English strawberry found — New
plants discovered — Vegetables and fruit in the markets — Entomo-
logical notices — Land shells — A Buddhist congregation — Their
mode of worship — Amusing visit from the congregation—An
interval in the service — Its conclusion.
In due time I arrived at my old quarters in Kana-
gawa, and the plants which I had purchased in
Yedo were delivered in good condition, and added
to my other collections. Tunga and myself, with
some Japanese whom I had taken into my service,
were now daily ransacking the country in all
directions in search of new plants and other"
objects of natural history. One day, as I was
returning from my rambles, the last part of my
road was along the Tokaido, which forms the main
street of Kanagawa. In a tea-house, on the road-
side, a most curious operation was being per-
formed, which attracted my attention. A woman
was sitting with her back quite naked, while
another of her sex was engaged in burning little


204
Chap. XIII.
MOXA AND ACUPUNCTURE.
puffs of a pithy-like combustible substance in four
holes which had been made in the skin between
the shoulders. To an European the operation
would have been a most painful one; but the
woman who was undergoing the treatment in the
present instance was laughing and joking as if she
enjoyed it rather than otherwise. This was the
mam-burning operation, frequently noticed in the
works of Kajmpfer and other writers on Japan.
Moxa is said, in some books, to be made from the
balls of a fungus, and in others to be furnished by
the young leaves of wormwood (Artemesia). When
used, it is in the form of little cones, which are
placed in the holes above mentioned, and set on
fire on the top. It burns slowly down, and leaves
a blister on the skin, which afterwards breaks and
discharges. The operation is considered very
efficacious in preventing or curing the fevers of
the country, as also in cases of rheumatism, gout>
and even toothache. The Chinese irritate the skin
for the same disorders by dipping the knuckles in
hot tea, and pinching the neck, back, and other
"parts of the body until the skin becomes painfully
tender.
Acupuncture is another famous remedy with
the Japanese, although, perhaps, not so common
or such an apparent luxury as the moxa-burning.
It is used in cases of bowel-complaint or colic,
endemic to the country. This disease is supposed
by them to be caused by wind, and, in order to let
it out, several holes are made with needles in the


Chap. XIII. MEDICAL AND SURGICAL KNOWLEDGE. 205
muscles of the stomach or abdomen, and in other
fleshy parts of the body. These needles are
exceedingly fine, nearly as thin as hairs, and are
generally made of gold or silver, although some-
times of steel by persons who profess to peculiar
skill in tempering them. While the needles are
passed through the skin and muscle, the nerves
and blood-vessels are carefully avoided: a fact
which shows that the Japanese practitioners must
have some knowledge of anatomy.
It is not unlikely that these two remedies for
the common diseases of the country may, in many
instances, prove useful; but I have no doubt the
time is at hand when the Japanese will be taught
to accomplish the objects they have in view in a
way much more simple, and probably more effi-
ciently. The medical men of Japan have always
been remarkable for two things, when compared
with the same class in China—they have always
appreciated the higher character of the medical
and surgical science of the Western nations, and
have been attentive and eager students whenever
they have had an opportunity of acquiring know-
ledge. Kaempfer, Thunberg, and Siebold all bear
witness to this fact, and we have seen it further
confirmed by the medical members of the Embassy
who lately visited England, and who appear, by
their visits to our hospitals and colleges, to have
been most eager to acquire this kind of informa-
tion. The only drawback to their obtaining a
knowledge of surgery is, their superstitious ideas;


206
LADIES AT THEIR PRAYERS. Chap. XIII.
believing, as they do, that they become polluted
by contact with dead bodies,—a circumstance which
renders dissection impossible. Could this be got
over, as it no doubt will be, their progress in the
knowledge of surgery will be remarkable.
There are little roadside altars in many of the
fields near Kanagawa, on which the natives burn
incense, and offer salt, cash, and other things to a
little deity rudely carved in stone. On one occa-
sion I came up with three women, rather respect-
ably dressed, and looking as if they belonged to
the higher classes of Japan. They were accompa-
nied by a man-servant, who carried in his hands a
bundle of joss-sticks and paper as an offering to
the god. They looked pleased to see a foreigner,
were very polite, and asked me where I was going
to, whence I came, and to what nation I belonged.
On my returning the compliment by asking them
the same questions, they informed me they had
come from Kanagawa, and were about to offer
incense at a little altar situated in a field .some
hundred yards ahead of us. Being anxious to
witness the ceremony, I walked with them to the
altar. When we reached the little stone god, one
of the ladies, apparently the highest in rank, took
the incense out of the hand of the servant, lighted
it, and placed it in a stone basin in front of the
image. She then bent low before the altar, all the
time rubbing a string of beads which she. held in
her hands and muttering some prayers. The
second in rank stood behind her in a devout atti-


Chap. XIII.
207
CROPS AND FLOWERS.
tude, while behind the second stood the third, who
made short work with her devotions, and laughed
and talked to me while the others were engaged
with their prayers. At the conclusion of the
ceremony, which lasted only about two minutes,
the three ladies pulled short tobacco-pipes out of
their pockets, filled them with tobacco from their
pouches, and begged me to give them a light from
my cigar. I willingly complied with the request,
and, after having a comfortable little smoke toge-
ther, we parted the best of friends.
It was now the end of May, and a considerable
change had taken place in the appearance of the
country. In the fields the barley is yellow, and
will be ready for the sickle of the husbandman in
a few days; the rape-seed is ripe already, and its
harvest has commenced. The natives are busily
employed in sowing and planting the summer
crops between the rows of the standing corn.
These consist of soy and other beans, egg-plants,
sweet potatoes, cotton, melons and cucumbers,
turnips, hill-rice, and oily grain (Sesamum
orientale).
The spring flowers have now all disappeared.
The gorgeous peach and plum trees, whose falling
petals "strewed our path with flowers," are now
covered only with leaves; azaleas, camellias,
violets, and primroses, and even the glorious
glycine itself, have all passed by, and will not be
seen again until the opening of another year. But
although the spring beauties have gone by,


208
Chap. XIII.
MAY FLOWERS.
another race, equally beautiful in its way, has
come to take their places, to paint the woods and
hedgerows and gardens with masses of gay colours,
and to perfume the air with the fragrance of its
blossoms. Wild roses are now in full flower. The
hedges, banks, and uncultivated land are covered
with their white blooms. A new species of Weigela
is growing wild everywhere, and is also in flower.
In the end of May and in June Deutzia scabra and
Styrax japonica are very beautiful. They abound
on every hill-side, in the hedges, and on the banks
of streams. Later in the year the Styrax pro-
duces galls, from which a reddish dye is prepared.
Honeysuckles, too (Caprifolium japonicum), are
abundant, and their flowers, with those of the wild
rose, fill the air with delicious perfume.
In gardens, herbaceous peonies are out; several
beautiful kinds of pinks, quite different from the
spring sorts, are also in bloom, and there is a race
of summer chrysanthemums which come in at this
time, and which render the gardens extremely
gay. In addition to these, I noted two fine new
Weigelas, some clematises, irises, Spircea Reeves-
iana, and the white Banksian rose. It is a common
remark amongst foreigners that flowers are mostly
scentless in Japan, and some have gone so far as
to attribute this to the nature of the soil of the
country. That this is not so will be apparent from
the notices of the different fragrant plants above-
mentioned. Honeysuckles, roses (particularly the
white Banksian), gardenias, peonies, tuberoses, and


Chap. XIII.
20!)
THE HA INS.
a. hundred other flowers, are just as fragrant in
Japan as they are elsewhere. Violets are scentless,
but this appears to be the fault of the species, and
not of the soil.
Before I left Yedo a change seemed to .be about
to take place in the weather. Heavy clouds came
up and hung over the city, and every one ac-
quainted with the climate of Japan predicted the
near approach of the rainy season. The rains com-
menced on the night of the 26 th of May, and con-
tinued to come down heavily during the whole of
the following day. At 6 p.m. the clouds broke into
masses, and the clear blue sky appeared above them.
This evening there appeared the most beautiful and
perfect rainbow which I had ever seen, and about
the same time the clouds which rested on Mount
Fusi gradually rose, and showed us the holy moun-
tain basking in the evening sun, and still nearly
covered with snow. One can scarcely imagine the
beauty of the scene which was now spread out
before me, and it was rendered more lovely and
enjoyable by the fresh green foliage of the shrubs
antl trees, from whose leaves hung many thousands
of pearly rain-drops glistening in the sun's rays.
Heavy rains were now of frequent occurrence, and
continued at intervals up to the 15th of June. The
rainy season seems much more decided in its cha-
racter here than in China; indeed it reminded me
somewhat of the same season in India, although it
did not last so long.
On the 1st of .June I was awoke about three


210
AN ENGLISH STRAWBERRY. Chap. XIII.
o'clock in the morning by an earthquake of a very
violent character. Some rings suspended from a
canopy in the temple first indicated the motion and
began to tingle, then the whole building creaked
and groaned, and lastly the bed on which I lay
moved under me. It occurred at about three o'clock
in the morning, and lasted for a few seconds only.
Several other shocks were experienced afterwards
during the morning, but these were much less
violent, and some of them scarcely perceptible.
June 2nd.—The natives are still busy all over
the fields, sowing and planting the summer crops
between the rows of the ripening corn. Blazing
fires and dense clouds of smoke are now seen all
over the country. The rape-harvest is finished,
the seed has been trampled out, and the farmers
are now engaged in burning the stalks for the sake
of the ashes, which are used as manure for the
summer crops.
A nursery gardener who brought me a collection
of plants to-day for sale, had amongst them a
genuine English strawberry covered with ripe
fruit. I have already had occasion to notice, in an
earlier chapter, several foreign plants which had
been introduced from Western countries to Japan,
as a proof of the enterprise of the people, but I was
not aware until now that the real English straw-
berry was also here. A species oiFragaria is com-
mon, in a wild state, on the banks and hill-sides,
both in Japan and in China; but it has nothing to
do with the species we cultivate in Europe, and is


Chap. XIII.
211
NEW PLANTS.
perfectly tasteless. Here, however, was the real
"Simon Pure;" and as many of the foreign resi-
dents had gardens round their houses, this dis-
covery would enable them to have their strawberry-
beds, and to enjoy the old home luxury of straw-
berries and cream. I gladly purchased the plant
in question, and carried it in triumph to the house
of my friend Mr. Ross,* with whom I was to dine.
How we placed it in the centre of the table, how
we admired it, and what old scenes and old memo-
ries it brought before us, may be imagined by those
who have been long resident in such far-off lands
as Zipangu or Cathay.
During the remainder of the month of June I
discovered and added to my collections several new
plants of considerable interest, which I must now
notice. One day I was out in the country in search
of the seeds of a columbine, which were then ripe.
In the grounds of a pretty little temple I came
quite unexpectedly upon a new species of Deutzia,
having double rose-coloured flowers. It was in full
bloom at the time, and was very beautiful. The
good priestess of the temple kindly allowed me to
gather a few specimens of the flowers for my
herbarium, -and for a few tempos + I induced her
to part with some of the plants. This shrub will
be hardy in England, and its double rose or pink
coloured blossoms will render it very ornamental in
* J. it. Ross, Esq., a resident in Yokuhama, to whom I was in-
debted for mucli kindness and hospitality.
t An oval copper coin, worth about one penny of our money.
p 2


212
Chap. XIII.
NEW PLANTS.
our gardens. Curiously enough I found at this
time the pretty Spircea callosa, a shrub which I had
first seen on the Bohea Mountains in China, and
which I had imported thence into Europe. It
grows wild on the hill-sides in Japan, and is also
cultivated in gardens and much esteemed by the
Japanese. Another Spircea—a herbaceous kind, re-
sembling our own " Queen of the Meadow," but with
deep-red flowers—was also met with at this time.
Lychnis senno, a plant which I had known from a
figure in Siebold's ' Flora Japonica,' was also found
in bloom, and added to my collections. It is culti-
vated in every cottage-garden, and is very showy
and handsome when in bloom. Its leaves have a
kind of violet hue somewhat resembling a Trades-
cantia, while its flowers are of a bright fiery red
colour. There are three varieties of this—a red,
a white, and one with striped flowers. They are
all very ornamental, particularly the striped one.
Hydrangias were also met with, and a beautiful new
honeysuckle, since named Lonicera areo-reticulata.
Summer chrysanthemums were now hawked about
the streets in great variety, many of them with
large flowers, and some belonging to the class called
Pompones. Irises too are carried about in the
same way; the natives are very fond of these, and
have a number of fine kinds.
In the markets of Kanagawa and Yokuhama
there were now some good cucumbers and brinjals;
two or three kinds of peas were in season, also
French beans of first-rate quality. The summer


Chap. XIII.
213
ENTOMOLOGY.
fruits of Japan are few in number and inferior in
kind. At this time we had wild raspberries and
loquats (Eriobotria japanica). A little later two
kinds of plums come in, some poor peaches,
apricots, and melons. As a general rule all the
summer fruits of Japan are very inferior to those
in cultivation in England; but as, by the late
treaty, we are now enabled to give the Japanese
a sample of our manufactures, the time will, no
doubt, come when we shall also improve their
fruits and vegetables.
From the beginning to the end of June was the
most successful time for our entomological collec-
tions. The moist air and warm sun brought out
insects innumerable, and some of the common
kinds of beetles might be shaken off the flowers or
leaves of the trees by the thousand. Tunga and
myself, assisted by troops of natives, were daily
adding to our stores, and many cases were now
crammed full of rare species, destined to instruct
and, I hope, to give pleasure to many a western
entomologist. I am indebted to Mr. Stevens, of
Bloomsbury Street, London, for the names of a few
of the more interesting species, in the following
letter.
"The best insects you have brought from Japan
comprise Damaster (new species), described by
Mr. Adams as D. Fortunei, three species of true
Carabi apparently undescribed, a new genus of the
carabideous group allied to Sphodrus or Nebria, two
new species of Lueani or stag-beetles, several new


214
Chap. XIII.
ENTOMOLOGY.
and beautiful Longicorns, a Spondylus allied to a
species found in France and Germany, and in-
teresting on that account; also several other
coleoptera much resembling species found in
England, and two or three species identical with
English ones. Besides there is a most beautiful
and apparently new butterfly, a species of Apatura
or an allied genus, of which the beautiful A. Iris
(Purple Emperor) is found in England; some other
butterflies almost identical with our own; and
others resembling those found in the north and
south of China. Many of the insects have a great
resemblance to those found in China, and some are
identical, including Dynastes dichotoma."
One afternoon about this time I came upon a
group of countrymen, sitting under the shade of
some trees, busily engaged in taking a kind of
silk or gut from a large species of caterpillar.
The animal was fully four inches long, its upper
side was of a lively green colour, while the under
was white and covered with long white hairs. It
feeds upon the leaves of a species of chesnut
(Castanea japonica) very common on all the hill-
sides in this part of Japan. In the baskets con-
taining the worms were a quantity of these,
leaves, which, judging from the rapid manner
in which they were being eaten up, must be
very palatable. But the curious part of the
business remains to be told. These worms are
not allowed to come to maturity, and then spin
cocoons like the common silkworm, but each


Chap. XIII.
215
LAND-SHELLS.
individual is disembowelled alive, and two short
thread-like substances are taken out of its body.
These threads are at first about three inches in
length, and are covered thickly with a glutinous
fatty substance. When dipped in a solution of
some kind—apparently vinegar—this fatty matter
comes readily off, and the threads are drawn out to
their full length. Those which I measured on
the spot were fully five feet long. I believe they
are largely used in the manufacture of fishing-
lines, for which there is a considerable demand in
Japan. The countrymen engaged in collecting
them informed me they were also woven into
articles of clothing, but if such be the case, which
I think doubtful, such cloth must be very ex-
pensive.
The land-shells of Japan are of some interest
to the conchologist, but the species are few in
number, and not remarkable for their beauty.
Mr. Cuming informs me that a Helix, with a re-
versed mouth, which I have brought home, is
H. qucesito (Deshayes), another is Helix japonica
(Pfieffer), and a third, of which there are three
varieties, is a new species, and undescribed. It is
rather remarkable that a country like Japan,
which abounds in woods, gardens, and waste lands,
should have so few land-shells; such, however, is
the case, as, had they been more plentiful, I think
Tunga and myself must have met with them in our
rambles.
During the last days of June and the first of


A BUDDHIST CONGREGATION. Chap. XIII.
July a small temple, adjoining that in which I
was located was daily crowded with natives who
came to worship at its shrines. The wheat and
barley had been gathered in, the rice was planted,
and 1 suppose the object of the festival was to praise
Buddha for an abundant harvest, and to petition
for a continuance of fine weather for the young
paddy. Be this as it may, the people assembled in
considerable numbers, for several days in succes-
sion, to take part in the worship. Here, as in
other countries, the female portion of the com-
munity seemed to be the most numerous and the
most devout, for certainly nine-tenths of this con-
gregation were women. Many had their teeth
blackened and their eyebrows pulled out, showing
they were married, while others were still rejoic-
ing in white teeth and single blessedness. Jolly-
looking farmers' wives with their ruddy-cheeked
daughters were there, mingling with the courtesans
of the tea-houses in gay dresses and painted faces.
In China the priests perform the public services
in the Buddhist temples, and, if any of the people
should chance to be present, they are there as
spectators only. Here, however, the case was
entirely different. EacJi worshipper was furnished
with a cushion or hassock on which to kneel during
his or, I should rather say, her devotions. A bit
of round sounding brass was laid upon the cushion,
and was struck by the devotee at certain times as
the service went on. The priests led off, and then
the whole congregation joined, striking their brass


Chap. XIII. VISIT FROM THE WORSHIPPERS.
217
cymbals, and singing "Nam, nam, nam," and some
such unmeaning sounds, with their voices—unmean-
ing to me at least, for I did not understand them.
The service lasted, each day, for about an hour, in-
cluding an interval when the worshippers refreshed
themselves with sundry copious draughts of saki.
On the 2nd of July, having heard the tinkling
and "nam, nam, nam" going on for some time, I
walked into the court in front of the little temple,
in order to see something of the ceremonies.
After remaining a few minutes I returned to my
own quarters, and was soon followed by the whole
congregation, who came, I suppose, to return my
visit. Some amongst them were old men who
could scarcely walk, but the greater part were
women and children. I received them politely,
and allowed them to examine my clothes, books,
and specimens of natural history. One lady took
hold of my wristband, another handled the neck
of my shirt, and a third examined the texture of
my trousers. But the butterflies, beetles, and
shells were to them most astonishing and incom-
prehensible. "Where could I have found such a
number of these things ?"—many of which they
had never seen before. "What was I going to
do with them? Was I going to eat them?"
Those who were wiser than the rest informed the
others that I was collecting these things to make
medicine! And then some stated that I had been
over all the country gathering these objects; that
1 had been paying money for them—a statement


218
CHOICE OF WIVES OFFERED. Chap. XIII.
which made some of them shake their wise heads,
and evidently conclude that something was wrong
with my "upper story." As all this was going
on, the usual questions were put concerning my
country, my age, and whether I was single or
married. Many a goodhumoured joke was, no
doubt, passed round amongst them at my expense;
but as my knowledge of the language was very
limited, it amused them without doing me any
harm. Then the good ladies wanted my opinion
regarding themselves, and one after another was
laughingly brought forward—married and single
without distinction—and proposed as a helpmate.
I took all this in good part, and eventually my
visitors were reminded it was time to go back
to their devotions. Then came a long series of
"He hes" and polite bowings, with many expres-
sions of thanks, and I was left alone in my temple.

Girls meeting— n example of Japtuie*- rmmnera.


Chap. XIII.
219
INTERVAL IN SERVICE.
After leaving; me, the congregation returned to
the little temple in which they had been wor-
shipping; and the singing, with the tinkling of
bells and cymbals, went on as before. All at once
the sounds ceased, and I concluded that the services
of the day were over. In this, however, I was mis-
taken; for shortly afterwards I heard sounds of
merriment, very different from those devotional
ones which had preceded them. I was therefore
induced to visit the congregation a second time, in
order to satisfy my curiosity. When I reached the
court in front of the temple a curious scene pre-
sented itself to my eyes. There was the same con-
gregation in the same room in which they had been
so devout a short time before, now engaged drink-
ing saki, and already—judging from the loud
laugh which was going round, and the boisterous
merriment—somewhat under its influence. When
I was perceived in front of the door the intelligence
was quickly passed round the room, and I was re-
ceived by the assembly with a scream of delight.
The hospitality, of these people, in so far as saki
was concerned, was boundless; and many invita-
tions were given me to join the various groups,
and to pledge them in cups of the favourite national
stimulant. As saki, however, is not a favourite of
mine, I respectfully refused their offers, with many
thanks, and considered that the most prudent course
for me to pursue, under the circumstances, would
be to beat a retreat. But if I had any fears that
this little carousal would end unpleasantly, these


220
CONCLUSION OF SERVICE. Chap. XIII.
fears were perfectly groundless. At an appointed
time the priests appeared in their robes of office,
the saki which remained unconsumed was put away,
the countenances of the congregation changed from
gay to grave—some of them, it is true, were a little
more ruddy than before—and the religious services
again commenced. The officiating priest led off,
and was followed by his little congregation; and
the " Nam-nam-nam-ing," and tinkling of bells and
cymbals, were kept up for about another hour. At
the end of this time the people left the temple, and
returned quietly to their homes.


Chap. XIV. COUNTRY JOURNEY.
221
CHAPTER XIV. •
Journey into the cjuntry — Fine views by the way — Town of Kana-
sawa — Our inn — Visit to a temple — The visitors' book — Crowds
in front of the inn — Their manners and customs—Japanese bed-
rooms— Natural productions—Uncultivated land — Remarks on
the extent of population in Japan— Fine views — Kamakura the
ancient capital — An insane woman — Her extraordinary conduct
— Our inn at Kamakura—Large bronze image—its interior —
Crowds and their behaviour — A tiffin and a siesta — Visit to the
temples of Kamakura — The sacred stone — Yuritomo's tomb—A
page from Japanese history — Return to Kanagawa.
A few miles south from Yokuhama there is a pretty
town named Kanasawa, and a little farther on is
Kamakura, said to be the ancient capital of Japan.
I had frequently heard of the beauty of these
places, and more particularly of the scenery by
which they were surrounded; and I therefore de-
termined to visit them, and set out for this purpose
on the 4th of July. On this occasion I was accom-
panied by Dr. Dickson from China, and Messrs.
Ross and Hope, merchants in Yokuhama. The
first part of our road led us up through a beautiful
valley, with richly-wooded hills dipping into it on
either side, and giving it a pleasing and irregular
outline. On the edges of this valley there were
many cottages and farm-houses, and now and then
we passed pre£ty glens which led up amongst the


222
Chap. XIV.
KANASAWA.
background of hills. Our road gradually ascended
to a higher elevation; and when the highest point
on the top of the hills was gained, we obtained a
glorious view of scenery which reminded me of
some of the prettiest spots in the Himalayas. We
then continued our way along the ridge of the
mountains, and looked down to the right and left
upon valleys, glens, and round hills, all covered
with the most luxuriant vegetation. A very
beautiful new lily (Lilium auratum) was met with
on the hill-sides in full bloom, and its roots were
dug up and added to my collections. Far away to
the eastward the sea lay spread out before us,
studded with- islands, and dotted here and there
with the white sails of junks and fishing-boats.
After we had travelled along the mountain-ridge
for some distance, the road began gradually to lead
down hill, and about six o'clock in the evening we
reached the village of Kanasawa, which lies close
upon the sea-shore.
Having engaged rooms at one of the principal
inns of the place, we strolled out to look at .the
town. Kanasawa is a small place with a single
street about half a mile in length, in which there
are several inns and tea-houses. This spot is re-
markable and celebrated amongst the Japanese for
its fine scenery. The sea comes in towards it
between some small islands, and presents the
appearance of a landlocked lake. Little hills,
crowned with temples and trees, are studded
about, from which charming views of sea and land


Chap. XIV.
223
VISIT TO A TEMPLE.
scenery can be obtained. We ascended one of
these, and were kindly received by the priests
attached to the temple. Some fine fresh fruit of
the loquat, and sundry cups of very good tea,
were presented to us, and a visitors' book was
brought in which to insert our names. This book
contained the names of many distinguished Ja-
panese who had honoured the place with a visit;
and numerous sketches and scraps of poetry, com-
posed upon the spot, recorded the beauties of the
situation and the fine views which it commanded.
The book was examined with much interest by the
members of our little party, and Dr. Dickson pro-
posed to buy it, offering the munificent sum of
fourpence halfpenny as an inducement to the priest
to part with it. The Japanese are certainly a
curious people; they will sell anything for money.
The priest took the tempos, and Dr. Dickson carried
off the visitors' book with its valuable autographs,
clever sketches, and immortal poetry. After visit-
ing some other places of interest, we returned to
our inn, having been everywhere received with the
greatest politeness by the people.
We occupied a suite of rooms upstairs. They
communicated with each other by sliding doors made
of paper pasted over a wooden frame; these doors
could be taken out, and the whole flat converted
into one room when required. The room in which
we dined looked out upon the sea, and the high
, road of the town was under our windows. As the
weather was exceedingly warm, the windows were


224
Chap. XIV.
TREATMENT OF A CROWD.
out, and we were fully exposed to the sea-breeze
and to a crowd of natives of both sexes and of all
ages who crowded the road in front of the inn.
After dinner we sat on a ledge at the window, and
amused ourselves with the crowd below. Strange
questions were put to us on many subjects; and as
the Japanese, as a people, have not our ideas of
morality, many of their questions and remarks
were not such as I can repeat here. Our landlord,
who was probably better acquainted with our
manners and customs than the crowd under his
windows, several times expostulated with them in
an angry tone, but produced no effect. Once or
twice a bucket of water was added to his argu-
ments; but although this induced them to scamper
away for an instant, they soon came back again.
As the night wore on the crowd gradually dis-
persed, and, intending to be up early next morning,
we followed their example and retired to rest.
The floors of our bedrooms were covered with
clean matting, and a padded counterpane was laid
in the middle of each room, with a wooden pillow
for the head to rest upon. Ample mosquito cur-
tains, nearly as large as the room itself, reached
from the ceiling to the floor.
Next morning at daylight we were up, and, in
order to refresh ourselves, we had a plunge in the
bay. As we intended to proceed immediately after
breakfast across the hills to the ancient town of
Kamakura, I employed the time before our meal
was ready in visiting several places of interest in


Chap. XIV.
225
ROAD TO KAMAKURA.
the vicinity in search of new plants. In the
grounds of a native prince here I observed some
trees of Podocarpus macrophyllus of great size, some
fine examples of Pinus massoniana, and a new
Arborvitse ( Thuja falcata).
The town of Kamakura was distant from
Kanasawa some five miles. We sent our horses
onward by the lower route, and chose the hill-
road ourselves, in order to get a better view of
the surrounding country. After leaving the
valley this road led us gradually upwards, and
then along a ridge of hills somewhat like those we
had noticed the day before on the journey from
Yokuhama. When we had attained a considerable
elevation, the views on all sides were exceedingly
fine and extensive. On our right hand and on
our left we looked down upon and over a perfect
sea of hills, of all sizes and of every conceivable
form, covered, from their summits to the valleys
below, with trees and brushwood. Many of these
forests had been planted and were now yielding
valuable timber, but by far the greatest portion of
them were in a state of nature, very beautiful to
look upon no doubt, but covered with wild trees
and dense brushwood of little value. Far away
down in the valleys we observed patches of culti-
vated land, which, taken in connection with our
mountain-road and the forests which had been
planted, were the only marks of the country being
inhabited by man. We did not meet one single
human being during this part of our journey.
Q


220
Chap. XIV.
POPULATION IN JAPAN.
And yet the climate is one of the finest in the
world; and the soil fertile and capable of growing
excellent timber, and of yielding abundant crops
of grain.
How can this state of things be accounted for, if
we believe the statements of Thunberg, Kaempfer,
Siebold, and other travellers, that the country is
densely populated? But the travellers with the
Dutch embassies from Nagasaki to Yedo rarely left
the imperial highway on their route, and must
have received their impressions from what they
observed as they went along it, and from the
crowded state of the great towns through which
they passed. Any one, even now, whose experience
of Japan was confined to the Tokaido, would come
to the same conclusion; but let him leave the
great highway and penetrate into the country by
its common roads, and then some doubts would
probably come across his mind on the subject.
And if he happens to know anything about agri-
culture or woodlands, and sees, on every hand,
thousands of goodly acres, capable of producing
crops of corn or valuable timber, lying waste or
only covered with brushwood of little value, he
will at least affirm that there are in that country
the means of supplying all the necessaries of life
to a population far greater than that which exists
in Japan at the present day.
When we reached the highest land on our
journey, we left the road and mounted the top of
an adjoining hill, from which may be obtained one


ChAP. XIV.
227
KAMAKURA.
of the finest views in Japan. On the south was
the sea, with the beautiful little island of Ino-sima,
famous in Japanese history; to the west was a
chain of mountains, with Fusi-yama towering high
above them all; while, far away in the east, the
capital itself may be seen on a clear day. Down
in the valley below us we could discern the roofs
of the houses and temples of Kamakura, the
ancient capital of the country, to which we were
bound.
Having rested for a while on this beautiful spot,
and enjoyed the view which lay spread out before
us, we set out again on our journey. The road
now led down the mountain-side, a portion of the
way in a ravine, down which a clear stream was
running, shaded with lofty trees. At length we
reached Kamakura, which presents, at the present
day, no appearance of having once been a capital
town. It is simply a country village, with a few
mean shops and some good inns or tea-houses.
But its temples, and the scenery in the neighbour-
hood, will always render it a place of great attrac-
tion to foreign visitors, as it has been for ages to
the Japanese. It is situated at the head of a
valley, with hills on each side and behind, and
open in front to the sea. A fine avenue of pine-
trees extends from the temples down to the beach.
Handsome broad roads intersect each other and
this avenue at right angles, and these are also
fringed on each side with clumps and rows of
trees. Cryptomcria japonica, Pinus massoniana, and
Q 2


228
Chap. XIV.
AN INSANE WOMAN.
Salisburia adiantifolia, are the trees generally used
for these avenues.
As we entered the village a most extraordinary
circumstance occurred, which took us entirely by
surprise, until we remembered that we were in
Japan. A woman rushed out of a shop and placed
herself in the middle of the road, holding a tobacco-
pipe in one hand, and a box containing some
tobacco and sundry other articles in the other.
When I first saw her my impression was, that she
either meant to welcome us by the offer of her pipe,
or that she wished to dispose of the wares in her
box. But such was not her intention. To our
alarm and surprise, she threw off the only garment
she wore and assumed the attitude of a naked statue,
at the same time putting her pipe into her mouth
and puffing out clouds of tobacco-smoke. The
people came running towards us from every part of
the village, and were evidently accustomed to such
exhibitions on the part of the individual before us.
When we recovered from our surprise we came
to the conclusion that the poor creature was insane,
which we afterwards found to be the case.
As the day was cloudless, with the thermo-
meter standing somewhere about 100° in the
shade, we were glad to take up our quarters in
a tea-house. We were welcomed by mine Jiost
and some pretty maidens, and conducted up stairs
to a suite of rooms with open windows looking
out upon the village. While we were sitting
fanning ourselves -and enjoying the shade, after


Chap. XIV. HER EXTRAORDINARY CONDUCT.
229
the fierce heat to which we had been exposed for
some hours, crowds of people assembled on the road
in front of the inn, all anxious to get a glimpse of
their foreign visitors. All at once there seemed
some commotion amongst them, and they rushed
away to look at some one who was coming towards
our inn by a cross road not visible from the rooms
we occupied. At first we thought this excite-
ment was caused by a fresh arrival of foreigners
from Kanagawa, who had promised to come after
us and join our party. Presently, however, our
mad friend came in sight, carrying in her arms a
bundle of branches and some sticks of incense, as
if she contemplated paying a visit to the temples
or to the tombs. Poor thing! she seemed to be
good-humoured and harmless in her insanity; and
even the little children, although they ran away
when she approached them, did not seem much
afraid of her. She soon returned from the tem-
ples, and then employed herself in fetching water
and pulling grass and weeds for our horses, which
were tied up on the roadside in front of the inn.
While engaged in this operation she seemed to
fancy that the horses were fit objects of adoration;
and as she fed each animal with grass, or gave it
water, she closed her hands in an attitude of devo-
tion, and muttered to it some Buddhist form of
prayer.
When we had rested a short time in the inn we
rode out to pay a visit to a large bronze statue
which is considered one of the lions of the district


230
Chap. XIV.
BRONZE IMAGE.
We found this situated in a pretty garden about
two miles from Kamakura. When we reached the
entrance to the grounds we were politely requested
to dismount, as no one was allowed to ride into
the sacred enclosure. We entered the garden and
proceeded up a paved walk lined on each side
with fine specimens of trees and shrubs, many of
which were trained and clipped into curious forms.
At the head of the garden stood, or rather sat, the
enormous bronze image we were seeking. It was
not less than thirty feet in diameter at the base,
and fully forty feet in height. The proportions of
the figure were admirable. At first sight we were
astonished at the size of the casting, but upon a
closer examination we found that the huge colossus
had been cast in several parts, and then joined
together or built up. On the opposite page is a
native sketch, bought from the priest, which gives
a good idea of the image.
An old priest who lived in a small temple ad-
joining told us that this figure had been placed
there six hundred years ago; and no doubt, had
we been better acquainted with the language of
the country, we might have learned some curious
particulars of its history. A door at one of the
sides led into the interior. This Avas opened by
the priest, and we were invited to enter along with
him. We found the inside lighted by windows
placed at the back; and there were many orna-
ments—such as small gilded images representing
Buddhist deities, and strips of paper—hanging on


Chap. XIV.
231
BRONZE IMAGE.
the walls. Boxes were placed here for the offer-
ings of the devotees who visit the shrine. Indeed
these are found in nearly all the temples of Japan,
just as they are met with in the churches of Chris-
tian countries. Altogether, the place, the scenery,
and the statue, well rewarded us for our visit; and
our only regret on coming away was that we could
learn so little of the origin and history of this re-
markable place.

Bronze imago.
This part of the country abounds in temples, and
in that respect was more fitted for the site of the


232
Chap. XIV.
TEMPLES AND IMAGES.
capital of a Spiritual Emperor than for that of a
temporal one; and this is what it very likely was
in the early days of Japanese history, when the
Mikados, or Spiritual Emperors, were the sole
rulers of the country. We visited another temple
in the course of the morning, not far from the
bronze statue, and were shown some large tinselly-
looking images which were evidently thought
wonderful things by the country people. One of
the most remarkable was kept in a dark place,
which had to be lighted up when it was visited—
another mode of getting contributions from the
devout. Lithographs of this goddess were also on
sale in the temple.
In Japan, as in China, noisy crowds followed us
into the sacred buildings, and were anything but
reverential in their demeanour. With all their
noise they were good-humoured enough, and not
at all unfriendly in their manner towards us.
Other temples were pointed out in various direc-
tions, which we were pressed to visit; but as the
day was oppressively hot, and as we had the dread
of fever before our eyes, we rode back to our inn
at Kamakura, determined to keep indoors until the
sun's rays were less powerful.
We had ordered luncheon before we set out, and
on our return we found a most substantial meal
awaiting us. It consisted of excellent fish fresh
from the sea, cooked in the soy of the country,
and most delicious it was; fine white rice; and an
omelette, rather too sweet perhaps, but very palat-


23-1
Chap. XIV.
VISIT TO TEMPLES.
prayer, either to him or for him, as she had done
to the horses in the morning. The most amusing
part of the performance was to see our friend
lying perfectly unconscious of the honours - that
were being paid to him. The poor woman had
also brought up four cups of tea and a handful
of dry rice, which she laid upon the ground as
an offering to our party. As soon as she saw us
awake and noticing her movements, she rose
quietly and walked out of the room without paying
the slightest attention to any of us.
When the day had become a little cooler we left
the shelter of our inn and went to pay a visit to
the temples for which Kamakura is celebrated all
over the empire of Japan. They are placed at the
head of the valley before-mentioned, and are ap-
proached by an avenue terminating in a broad
flight of stone steps in front of the temples. They
are eight in number, and are only opened, we were
told, once or twice a year. We did not observe
any priests about them, nor any signs of Buddhist
worship; and therefore they probably belonged to
the Sintoo sect, the ancient religion of Japan.
Their roofs are remarkable in form, and one of
them has a tower somewhat like an Indian minaret.
Although we could not enter these temples, we
could look through the bars of their doors and see
their contents. Many of them contained wooden
images of different kinds, some of which were sup-
posed to cure certain diseases, and were worshipped
and prayed to by the afflicted. One in particular


Chap. XIV.
235
SACRED STONE.
was pointed out which could cure ophthalmia;
and we were gravely assured by our guide that
any one afflicted with sore eyes, which are very
common in Japan, as well as in China, had only to
look upon this image and be healed.
Among the other wonders of the place was a
sacred stone, curiously formed by nature, and appa-
rently slightly assisted by art. This stone had the
remarkable property, we were told, of rendering
barren women fruitful. Ladies came from afar to
worship it, and at the same time to turn their faces
towards the holy mountain, which is said to be one
of the conditions to ensure a successful issue. A
box is duly provided for the reception of offerings,
which shows that there is some one who is pre-
pared to profit by the superstitions of his country-
women. We are surprised and we pity the poor
Japanese for their superstitious delusions, and yet,
if one of them were to write an account of his
travels amongst ourselves, could he not tell his
countrymen that in enlightened England, in the
nineteenth century, a class of persons gain a
livelihood by telling the fortunes of our servant-
girls, and sometimes of their mistresses, and pro-
mising them rich husbands, horses and carriages,
and lots of romping children? With these things
in our minds we should not be too hard on the
superstitions of the good ladies who visit the sacred
stone at Kamakura.
The afternoon was now getting cool, for the sun
was sinking rapidly behind the western hills. We


236
Chap. XIV.
A PAGE OF HISTORY.
therefore returned to our inn, paid our bill, mounted
our horses, and took the lower road for Kanasawa,
the place where we had lodged the night before.
As we were leaving Kamakura I rode up to the
foot of a hill on our left to see the tomb of Yuri-
tomo, a celebrated general, the founder of the race
of Japanese Temporal Emperors, and a man who is
remembered among the people as William Wallace
or Robert Bruce is in Scotland.
The name of Yuritomo is to be found in every
book which professes to give a history of Japan.
Before his day the country had only one sovereign,
the Mikado, or Spiritual Emperor, who was be-
lieved to be descended from the gods. A per-
sonage named Zin-mu-ten-woo is said to have been
the first Mikado. Having conquered the island of
Nipon, he built a dairi or temple-palace, and dedi-
cated it to the Sun-goddess. Historians inform us
that this event took place about the year 660 B.C.,
and it is not unlikely that Kamakura was the
place chosen for the site of this temple. For many
centuries, the Mikados, claiming to rule by divine
right and inheritance, were indeed despotic sove-
reigns; and even after they had ceased to head
their own armies, and had intrusted the dangerous
military command to sons and kinsmen, their
power long remained undisputed and uncontrolled.
It was perhaps first and gradually weakened by a
habit into which the Mikados fell, of abdicating at
so early an age that they transferred the sove-
reignty to their sons while yet children. The


Chap. XIV.
239
STORY OF YUKITOMO.
From that time to the present, though they may
have become more independent of the Spiritual
Sovereign, they have degenerated into the se-
cluded puppets of a council of state, and are
seldom seen outside of the palace-gates.
A romantic story in Yuritomo's career has been
handed down by historians. In the course of the
civil war the rebel Prince Feki fell in battle, and
his General, named Kakekigo, was taken prisoner.
This General's renown was great in Japan, and
Yuritomo strove earnestly to gain the friendship
and confidence of his captive. He loaded him
with kindness, and finally offered him his liberty.
But all was in vain. "I can love none but my
slain master," said Kakekigo; "I owe you a debt
of gratitude, but you have caused Prince Feki's
death, and never can I look upon you without
wishing to kill you. My best way to avoid such
ingratitude, and to reconcile my conflicting duties,
is never to see you more, and thus do I insure it."
As he spoke he tore out his eyes, and presented
them to Yuritomo on a salver. The Prince, struck
with admiration, released him; and Kakekigo
withdrew into retirement, and founded the second
order of the blind.
Yuritomo's tomb is placed near the base of a hill
in a charming situation. Behind it and on each
side were trees and brushwood, while in front were
green rice-fields extending down to the sea-beach,
the little town of Kamakura, with its temples and
avenues, lying between. It was approached by a


240
Chap. XIV.
YURITOMO'S TOMB.
flight of steps, and consisted of a small plain stone
tower surrounded by a dwarf wall. The whole
edifice was hoary with age, having probably been
erected upwards of six hundred years ago. And
this was the resting-place of a General of great
renown, the firet of the race of Tycoons, and a
man whose memory is still cherished by the
natives of Nipon.
Our lowland road back to Kanasawa was a very
pleasant one, leading us at one time along the
banks of a clear stream, and at another through
some natural gap or deep cutting in the hills. We
spent a second night in "our inn," and on the
following day returned to Kanagawa.


Chap. XV. ASSASSINATIONS.
241
0
CHAPTER XV.
Assassinations—Supposed causes — The innocent suffer for the guilty
— Japanese desire for revenge — Midnight attack on H. B. M.
Legation — The scene next morning—Supposed'reasons for the
attack — Document found ou a prisoner — Its translation —
Opinions of Japanese ministers — True reasons for the attack —
Instigators known — Weakness of government — Causes of its
weakness — Its sincerity — The difficulties it has to encounter —
Murder of Mr. Richardson — News of a revolution in Yedo.
On our arrival at Kanagawa we were startled by
the intelligence that H. B. M. Legation at Yedo
had been attacked the night before by a band
of loonins,* and that the lives of Her Majesty's
Minister and his staff of assistants had been in the
greatest danger. From the assassinations which
had taken place on several occasions, both at Yedo
and atYokuhama, since these places had become the
residences of foreigners, human life was generally
regarded as being somewhat insecure. And what
made matters worse was the fact that no one could
give any satisfactory reason for these murders.
True, it was reported that Mr. Alcock's servant,
who was one of the first victims, had given offence
by his arrogance and overbearing manner; the
murder of two Russians was attributed to a Ja-
panese official, who, with his family, was degraded
* Outlaws, or disgraced retainers.
R


242
THE INNOCENT UNSAFE. Chap. XV.
4.
at the instance of Count Mouravieff, in consequence
of some insult offered to the Russians in the
streets of Yedo; and the assassination of the
American Secretary of Legation was said to have
been committed by a Daimio's retainer, struck by
him in the street, who, on returning to his master's,
was asked how he dared to do so after receiving
a blow which was still unavenged.* Offence may
have been given in this way, and the Japanese,
who are a proud and revengeful people, would
most certainly have their revenge; but none of
the foreign residents could actually affirm that
insults of this kind were the causes of the melan-
choly events that followed.
But, taking for granted that those who had
fallen victims to revenge had done something to
merit their punishment, it does not follow that the
innocent in Japan may always consider themselves
perfectly safe. The Japanese assassin is not par-
ticular as to his victim. If he can secure the real
offender, good and well; if not, a substitute must
be had; if an Englishman give offence and cannot
be found, one of his countrymen must suffer in
his stead. This being the state of affairs, it is
plain that the innocent may, at any time, suffer
for the imprudence or follies of his countrymen, or,
indeed, of any foreigner, without respect to na-
tionality; for the avenger is not particular even
on that point.
* Sir James Hope's Report to the Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty.


Chap. XV. PASSION FOR REVENGE. 243
Revenge is a powerful feeling in the breasts of
the natives of Japan, more particularly amongst
the higher classes and their numerous bands of
two-sworded retainers. These gentry are always
ready to resent an insult or injury, real or sup-
posed; and as each man carries about his person
two swords whose edges are extremely sharp, he
has always the means of giving instant effect to
his passion. Nor does this desire for revenge end
with the life of the injured person. On the con-
trary, if he has not been able to accomplish it dur-
ing his lifetime, he will leave it as an inheritance
and obligation to his relations. In the autumn of
1860 an English merchant, who was returning from
a shooting excursion, was seized on his way by the
native police, and charged with having broken
the laws of the country, no one being allowed to
shoot within a certain distance of Yedo. In
attempting to disarm him, a loaded gun went off,
and lodged its contents in the arm of one of the
officials. The wound was a dangerous one, and
the foreign doctors of the place were of opinion
that, unless amputation was resorted to, the man
would, in all probability, lose his life. This
advice, for some reason, was not listened to; but,
luckily, owing to a good constitution, or perhaps
to diet, the dreaded mortification did not take
place, and the man recovered. It was stated to
us at the time of this occurrence that the wounded
man had taken an oath that, should he recover,
he would not rest until he had the merchant's life,
r 2


244 ATTACK ON BRITISH LEGATION. Chap. XV.
and that, should he die, his brothers would take
care that he was avenged. The gentleman in
question was tried at the British Consulate and
sentenced to deportation; and to this sentence he
probably owed his life, which, after what had
happened, was not safe for an hour in Japan.
During my residence in Japan there were several
other instances in which foreigners were obliged
to take a hasty leave of the country in order to
save their lives.
But although we knew the Japanese to be proud
and revengeful, and not very particular as to the
identity of their foes provided they were foreign-
ers, and although the community had to deplore
the murder of several of its members, apparently
innocent and unoffending men, yet nothing had
taken place recently to give us any uneasiness.
The Japanese, we fancied, were getting accustomed
or resigned to the presence of foreigners amongst
them; or our rough manners—at times somewhat
frolicsome and boisterous—were seen to be harm-
less, and not intended to hurt or annoy them.
But when the news of the murderous attack on
H. B. M. Legation reached us, the scales fell at
once from our eyes, and we saw we had been
sitting in fancied security on the top of a mine
which was liable to an explosion at any moment.
Various and contradictory accounts of the attack
reached us at Kanagawa. As an authentic account
has however been sent home by Mr. Alcock to
Earl Russell and presented to both Houses of


Chap. XV. ATTACK ON BRITISH LEGATION.
245
Parliament, I cannot do better than give an ex-
tract from it to the reader in Mr. Alcock's own
words:—
"Yedo, July 6, 1861.—Before another night
closes in, with its contingencies, which may well
prevent my addressing your Lordship again, I am
anxious to submit a simple statement of the events
which have marked the last; for, whether I sur-
vive or not, it is essential that Her Majesty's
Government should be well and duly informed
of all that has taken place. We have escaped a
massacre, but, seemingly, by the merest chance.
"I had only returned from Kanagawa four-and-
twenty hours, bringing Mr. Morrison and another
gentleman with me, on a visit to Yedo—the Lega-
tion being further augmented by Mr. Oliphant
and Mr. Russell—when the long-threatened on-
slaught roused us all from our beds a little before
midnight. Frequently as I had been warned that
such a deed was actually in contemplation, I con-
fess I felt incredulous when Mr. Robertson, who,
previous to his retiring to rest, always takes the
duty of going through the premises, came to tell
me that there was a conflict going on outside,
and that men were forcing their way through the
gates. I had barely time to seize my revolver
and advance a few steps, when I heard blows and
cries, and the report of a pistol in the passage
which runs at the end of my apartment. The next
moment both Mr. Oliphant and Mr. Morrison
staggered forward, exclaiming that they were


246
ATTACK ON BRITISH LEGATION. Chap. XV.
wounded, and I saw the blood flowing profusely
from the former, whose left arm was disabled.
Mr. Russell, Mr. Robertson, and Mr. Lowder fol-
lowed; the rest of the Legation were missing. Un-
certain how many our assailants were, or from how
many quarters the attack might be effected (since
a Japanese house is open on all sides, and every
partition consists entirely of doors and windows
only, or sliding-panels offering no resistance), a
brief interval of intense anxiety followed, while I
stood in momentary expectation of seeing men
pour in from the passage in pursuit After a
short lull, some of the band were heard outside the
apartment adjoining my bedroom breaking their
way through some glazed doors. Exposed to attack
from every side, with no sign of a yakoneen or
guard, several minutes were thus passed, two of
our number disabled, and the rest of us standing
at bay with such arms as had been hastily seized.
Our enemies had evidently mistaken their way,
and the increased distance of the shouts and yells
gave reason to hope they had at last been come up
with by the yakoneens, and had sought their safety
by leaving the house. To escape from a state of
intolerable suspense I went towards the principal
entrance for a moment, and to Mr. Macdonald's
room, to ascertain, if possible, what had become of
him. While on my way we thought they had
returned in force, seeing at the further end of the
passage a number of armed men advancing, who
would not answer our challenge. A shot was


Chap. XV. ATTACK ON BRITISH LEGATION.
247
fired by Mr. Lowder, and they disappeared. Still
the noise and clamour and conflict continued outr
side; and it seemed very long indeed before we
saw any of those (to the number of some 150)
Tycoon's and Daimio's men who had been held to
afford us such ample protection! At last, two or
three of the officers permanently on service ap-
peared to say that they hoped the house was clear,
but begging us to keep together at one end while
they made further search.
"I had now a moment of respite to turn to
Messrs. Oliphant and Morrison and dress their
wounds, though amidst alarms of renewed attack,
which, I may add, recurred at frequent intervals
until daybreak. . . . Most providentially the
party, which seems to have been destined to pene-
trate the interior of the house and finish the work
there, mistook their way to the part occupied by
myself from the beginning, and where all who
remained after the first alarm were speedily col-
lected, as the most defensible position. Had they
entered the grounds from that side (and nothing
was easier), steps and a path led directly to my
bedroom, and I should have most likely had no
time to seize a weapon, for there was nothing to
obstruct their entrance."
Fortunately for the little band in the Legation,
the yakoneen guard, when it arrived, fought
bravely, and the assailants were driven out of the
premises. It would seem, therefore, that, owing
to this on the one hand, and to the ignorance of


Chap. XV.
249
SUPPOSED REASONS FOR IT.
from the Ministers, gravely to felicitate me on my
escape and return to Yedo, praying me to accept
a basket of ducks and a jar of sugar in token of
amity! Your Lordship will, I am sure, not blame
me, that I desired the messenger to take his pre-
sents back with him, and tell his principal I
desired justice and redress, not ducks or sugar, at
the hands of his Government."
When the news of this attempted assassination
reached us at Kanagawa and Yokuhama, the sen-
sation created, both amongst natives and foreign-
ers, was very great. Who were the loonins, and
who or what had induced them to attempt the
commission of such a fearful crime? Mr. Alcock
and M. de Wit had just come overland from Osaca,
although the Government had begged them not
to do so, and warned them of the danger of such a
proceeding at the present time. Great offence
had been given, it was said, by their visit to one
of Prince Fizin's coal-mines, although the road to
it had been blocked up by a bamboo fence with a
guard of soldiers behind it. It was also rumoured
that a dispute for precedence had occurred on the
road with a Daimio, who happened to be met
travelling in a contrary direction, although it now
appears from Mr. Alcock's despatch that he had
given way to the great man, and for his politeness
had been almost pushed into the ditch! As these
reports were spread about, it was the opinion of
many that this overland journey, in some way or
other, bad been the cause of the attack which had


250
DOCUMENT FOUND ON A PRISONER. Chap. XV.
just taken place. On the other hand, it was
argued, and with some reason, that, had the Go-
vernment or offended Prince been the authors or
instigators of the crime, it might have been much
more easily and effectually accomplished on the
journey than in the British Legation at Yedo.
In connection with this question there was a
document found on one of the band who was
wounded and made prisoner, to which a considerable
amount of importance is due. Four translations
of this document were made; one being official,
while the other three were obtained from private
sources. In the official copy the writer says,—
"He is a man of low degree, moved by the desire
to do a great deed in honour of the sovereign—to
expel the foreigner, as it is intolerable to stand by
and see the sacred empire violated by the bar-
barians. To achieve honour for himself, as a
devoted patriot, making the empire to sparkle in
foreign regions by a great deed, while tranquil-
lizing the Imperial mind, and benefiting the
country by ridding it of the presence of the
foreigner "—for these objects this worthy is willing
to risk his life.
The translations furnished by private individuals
are similar to the above; but one or two important
things come out which would appear to have been
suppressed in the official copy. Thus the writer
does not say that he is "moved by the desire to
do a great deed in honour of the sovereign," but
"to follow out my masters will." In two of the


Chap. XV.
253
FEUDAL SYSTEM IN JAPAN.
tions, the Consulates, or Yokuhama, together or
successively, having long been a favourite plan
among Mito's disbanded followers and other despe-
rate characters, it required but a signal from any
chief immediately to get together the men neces-
sary for an attack; and so it was suddenly re-
solved upon and carried into execution at the
instigation of the Prince's emissary."
The true version of this story, whatever it may
be, will probably never be known to foreigners,
but that this is something near it there can be
little doubt. I firmly believe the real instigator of
the crime was some feudal prince, who was still hos-
tile to foreigners, or perhaps was not unwilling to
embroil his own Government in a quarrel which
he supposed would in some way advance his
interests. A feudal system exists in Japan at the
present day not unlike that of our own Scottish
Highlands a hundred years ago; and any chief
can easily excite the passions of his retainers, and
engage them in the most desperate enterprises.
These retainers are very much like the Maclvors
in Sir Walter Scott's ' Waverley :'—
"The Maclvors, sir," says Alick Polwarth,
Waverley's servant, "hae gotten it into their
heads that ye hae affronted their young leddy,
Miss Flora; and I hae heard mae than ane say
they wadna tak muckle to make a black-cock o'
ye; and ye ken weel eneugh there's mony o' them
wadna mind a bawbee the weising a ball through
the Prince himsell, an the Chief gae them the


Chap. XV.
255
ITS DIFFICULTIES.
gator of the attack on H. M. Legation, and yet
was afraid or unable to punish him.
With these difficulties to contend with, particu-
larly in their relations with foreign powers and
their subjects, the task of the Ministers of the
Tycoon is not exactly an agreeable one. I believe
they are sincere in their endeavours to protect
foreigners from the dangers which surround them
on every side, owing to the hatred and fanaticism
of unfriendly Daimios and their retainers. Doubt-
less their suggestion to Mr. A1 cock to have a
guard inside the Legation was well meant; and
their plan of surrounding the new settlement of
Yokuhama, and placing guards on the different
approaches—which some people found so much
fault with—was intended for our protection. They
knew the dangers to which we were exposed much
better than we did ourselves, and took their own
mode of averting them.
But in the present state of Japan, with the
feudal system in full operation, with jealousies
existing amongst the nobles, with bands of idle
retainers roaming about the streets, always armed
and not over-friendly to foreigners, the task of
protecting us is no easy one. Those Ministers
who agreed to make treaties with foreign nations
did not foresee the difficulties and dangers they
had to encounter in opening up a country which
had been sealed to the rest of the world for nearly
three hundred years. The future is now enveloped
in thick darkness; but it is much to be feared that


256
Chap. XV.
MUKDER OP MR. RICHARDSON.
war and all its horrors may, at no distant day, be
the penalty which this happy and peaceful land
will have to pay for a reintroduction to the great
family of nations.
While these pages have been going through the
press the overland mail has brought us an account
of another brutal murder, which was perpetrated on
the Imperial highway, within a few miles of Yedo,
on the 14th of September last. The murderers in
this case were the retainers of the father of the
Prince of Satsuma, and he is stated personally to
have given the atrocious order. The following
narrative of this sad transaction is taken from the
'Japan Herald :'—
"Yesterday afternoon, about two o'clock, a party
left Yokuhama for a country ride, intending to
cross to Kanagawa in a boat, and proceed thence
on horseback to Kawasaki, where there is a fine
temple. The party was composed of Mrs. Borra-
daile, the wife of a merchant at Hongkong; Mr.
Marshall, her brother-in-law, a merchant of Yoku-
hama; Mr. W. Clarke, of the house of Messrs.
A. Heard and Co.; and Mr. Richardson, who had
just retired from business in China, and was on a
visit to Japan, prior to his return to England. The
community, at about half-past three o'clock in the
afternoon, were startled by the return of Mrs.
Borradaile on horseback at Mr. Gower's house, in
a fearful state of agitation and disorder, her hands,
face, and clothes bespattered with blood, her hat
gone, and in a fainting state. She informed Mr.


Chap. XV. MURDER OF MR. RICHARDSON. 257
Gower that she had just ridden for her life over
seven miles, and had escaped she knew not how
from a most dastardly and murderous attack upon
herself and her companions; that about four
miles beyond Kanagawa, nearly half-way to Kawa-
saki, they had met part of a Daimio's train, con-
sisting of a large body of two-sworded men, coming
from Yedo, some of whom signed to them to move
aside, which they did. They drew up their horses
at the side of the road, but in consequence of con-
tinued signs to go back they turned their horses to
return towards Kanagawa. Without a word, or
the slightest further notice, some of the retainers
drew their swords and fiercely attacked them. A
cut was aimed at Mrs. Borradaile's head, which she
fortunately avoided by quickly stooping, though
her hat was cut away by the blow. The three
gentlemen were badly wounded, and being entirely
surrounded, and the road being for some distance
lined by their assailants, and being themselves en-
tirely unarmed, they had no course but to dash
through them, and to endeavour thus to effect their
escape. Mrs. Borradaile saw Mr. Richardson fall
from his horse, as she supposed, dead, and the
others were so badly wounded that Mr. Marshall
told her to ride for her life and try to save herself,
as he did not think they could keep up. She
scarcely remembers what happened afterwards, but
she recollects riding into the sea, preferring the
risk of drowning to falling into the hands of these
bloodthirsty miscreants. Her horse, however, re-
8


Chap. XV. M,URDER OF MR. RICHARDSON. 259
who had arrived determined at once to proceed in
search of Mr. Richardson, who had been seen by
him also to fall from his horse exhausted. As
they reached the main road they perceived Captain
Vyse, accompanied by several residents on horse-
back, together with the mounted guard, proceeding
on the same errand. . . . They continued on
the road till they arrived at the half-way house
between Kanagawa and Kawasaki, where they
were joined by the French mounted guard, who
had received orders from M. de Bellecourt,. His
Imperial Majesty's Envoy, to act in concert with
Captain Vyse and those who accompanied him.
Here they made inquiries, but could get no in-
formation, the people affecting entire ignorance
upon the matter. A little boy, however, came
forward and volunteered to point out where the
body was lying; under his guidance they retraced
their steps about half a mile, and found the body
lying about ten yards off the road in a field, at the
side of a small cottage. It was covered over with
a couple of old mats, which, on being removed, re-
vealed a most ghastly and horrible spectacle. The
whole body was one mass of blood; one wound,
from which the bowels protruded, extended from
the abdomen to the back; another, on the left
shoulder, had severed all the bones into the chest;
there was a gaping spear-wound over the region
of the heart; the right wrist was completely di-
vided, and the hand was hanging merely by a
strip of flesh; the back of the left hand was nearly
s 2


260
MURDER OF MR. RICHARDSON- Chap. XV.
cut through; and on moving the head, the neck
was found to be entirely cut through on the left
side. The two first-mentioned wounds had evi-
dently been the first he had received, and had been
given while he was on horseback; the last four, or
certainly two of them, had been inflicted after he
had fallen from his horse, if not after death. A
litter having been hastily constructed, the party
returned to Kanagawa with the body."
Poor Mr. Richardson! I knew him well. He
was a fine manly specimen of a young English-
man, of a mild and conciliatory disposition, and not
at all likely to give any wanton offence to the
Japanese people. Why then was the party at-
tacked, and why this brutal murder? They were
riding along the Imperial highway, within the
limits of the settlement provided by treaty with
the Government of the Tycoon, and were appa-
rently infringing no law. Perhaps their great
offence was this: they did not turn back or out of
the way quick enough when they saw the cortege
of the great man approaching. But although this
was probably the pretext for attacking them, other
causes, lying far deeper than this, were not want-
ing. These are an intense hatred to foreigners of
Western nations, and a dread of those innova-
tions and changes which are seen to be coming
upon the country, and which will eventually destroy
the feudal power.
It is becoming clearer every day that the Go-
vernment of the Tycoon, with whom we have made


Chap. XV. REVOLUTION IN YEDO. 261
our treaties, is "powerless to enforce those treaty
rights. The feudal princes, with that curious per-
sonage the Mikado, or "Spiritual Emperor," are
stronger than the Government at Yedo; and until
a change takes place, resulting in the formation of
a powerful Government either at Miaco or Yedo,
and the destruction of the feudal system, there
will, I fear, be little security for the lives of our
countrymen in this part of the world. How this is
to be accomplished, whether by civil war or by the
interference of foreign powers, is at present un-
certain.
It would seem that a kind of revolution has
already taken place in Yedo. The 'Japan Herald'
of October 25th says, "It was with no small sur-
prise and dismay that the populace of Yedo learned
this week that henceforth the highest Daimios are
only to visit Yedo once in seven years, and then
only for a hundred days at a time; the second
class, once in three years only, and then for a
hundred days; while the third are to remain as at
present; but in their case, as in all the others,
their wives and families are no longer to stay in
Yedo as hostages, but are to return and to remain
in the provinces. This change, it will be seen at a
glance, is a great diminution of the splendour of
the Tycoon's position. That these highest Daimios,
seven years hence, will think of visiting Yedo for
a hundred days, no one will be simple enough to
believe, or that the second class will return is ex-
ceedingly doubtful. Thus shorn of its jewels, the


262
Chap. XV.
REVOLUTION IN YEDO.
crown of the Tycoonship becomes" that of head of
the lower Daimios only. The seat of power will
probably, in no long time, be removed to Miaco."
A correspondent of the 'Times' (December 29)
gives another and different version of the same
story :—
"The Government of His Majesty the Tycoon of
Japan issued a notification at Yedo on the 19th of
October, to the effect that all Daimios or Princes
(excepting only those of the blood Royal, and also
those intrusted with the direction of affairs) should
respectively withdraw to their principalities.
"Henceforth the Government make it no longer
compulsory on them to reside at Yedo; they will
be called up once in three years to the metropolis
for the space of a hundred days.
"The Princes of Awarri, Mito, and Kishni,
being of the blood Royal, they will reside at Yedo
by turns of one year each, one remaining while
the other two are permitted to withdraw to their
ancestral territories.
"A further notification has been issued imposing
sumptuary restrictions, and recommending eco-
nomy, both in clothing and living, to the people
of Japan, high and low.
"A brother of the late Tycoon has been ap-
pointed Prince Regent since the demise of the late
Emperor up to the present crisis. He belonged to
the priesthood, but, owing to his high consan-
guinity, coupled with his great talents, he has
been summoned to this important post.


Chap. XV.
263
REVOLUTION IN YEDO.
"N.B. It is impossible to assign the true motives t
for such sudden and radical changes, but it does
appear as though the Government of the Tycoon
was much stronger than has hitherto been con-
ceded. It is thought possible that greater liberality
to foreigners may follow these events, and that a
variety of restrictions hitherto imposed upon native
traders may be gradually removed."
If the latter version of this strange story prove
to be the correct one, better days may be in store
for Japan than we had dared to hope for. It is
very difficult for foreigners to understand the pro-
ceedings of this remarkable people, and future
events alone can enable us to comprehend those of
the present or of the past.


CLIMATE OF JAPAN.
Chap. XVI.
CHAPTER XVI.
Climate of Japan — Dr. Hepburn's tables — Hottest and coldest months
— Monsoons — Gales of wind — The rainy season — Earthquakes
— Agriculture — Rank of the farmer — Rocks and soil — Cultiva-
tion of winter crops — Seed-time and harvest—Curious mode of
harvesting — Summer crops on dry land — Mode of planting —
Manures — Crops requiring irrigation — Cultivation of rice —
Other crops — Animals few in number — Waste lands — Crops and
seasons.
In the preceding chapters of this work I have
noticed, from time to time, the operations of the
Japanese husbandman. But the agriculture of
Japan is a subject of considerable interest, and one
which is worthy of more than a passing notice.
In order that it may be better understood I shall
first endeavour to give an account of the climate of
the country.
The empire of Japan covers a space of about
15 degrees of latitude, and is placed between 30°
and 45° north. It consists of four large islands,
namely, Kiu-siu, Sikok, Nipon, and Yesso, and
occupies a position on the eastern side of Asia not
unlike that of the British Islands on the west of
Europe, only considerably further to the south.
Like China it is liable to extremes of temperature
—to excessive heat in summer and great cold in


2G6
Chap. XVI.
CLIMATE OF JAPAN.
Thermometer. Fahr.
I
i
Zi
!§
7
1
|
!
Clondy days.
C
Snowy days.
w- In inch
U
h
a
a
I
s
I
1
o
6 9
1860.
-«
o
a
X
January . . .
30
47
59
18
19
9
3
1
February
32
47
58
19
14
12
2
i
1
2
1
March . . .
40
51
69
30
9
4
18
6i
3
9
April....
49
64
76
S6
16
5
9
3i
May ....
58
09
80
44
18
13
16A
. a
2
June ....
67
76
87
54
10
7
13 18*
11
July ....
75
82
92
(13
17
1
13
»i
*
August .
75
87
92
69
21
4
6
life
. .
2
September .
72
80
89
1)2
14
4
12
2J
2
October .
57
70
84
50
15
6
10
7i
2
November .
45
58
68
36
18
7
5
5
i
4
December . .
38
50
71
22
19
5
7
3}
1
1
which are the two coldest months, the temperature
ranges between 18° and 59°. In some seasons it
probably sinks considerably lower than it did in
1860, and no doubt it may usually be marked much
lower than this in the more northern island of Yesso.
The heat of the summer months tempered by sea
breezes is easily endured, while the cold of mid-
winter has a bracing effect upon the constitutions
of both natives and foreigners. The latter seem
peculiarly healthy in Japan, and instances are not
rare in which invalids from China, who have
visited the country on account of their health, have
been speedily cured. In March, April, and up to
the middle of May (the commencement of the
rains), the climate ia very delightful. The autum-
nal months are generally of the same description;
although the sun is sometimes hot in the middle of
the day, yet an umbrella is not required; the air
is cool and agreeable, and the evenings are most


Chap. XVI. MONSOONS—HURRICANES.
267
enjoyable. At this time of the year the sun, for
days, and sometimes for weeks together, rises in
the morning, runs his course, and sets in the even-
ing in a sky on which not a cloud has appeared.
The monsoons which blow steadily along the
eastern coast of Asia are not so decided in their
character in Japan as they are in China. Still,
however, northerly and easterly winds prevail
from September to April, and southerly and
westerly during the remainder of the year. Like
China this country is frequently visited by those
fearful hurricanes or cyclones, commonly known
as typhoons, which unroof houses, tear trees out
of the ground, and wreck many a goodly vessel
at sea. It is also remarkable, more than any
country known to me, for the suddenness with
which gales come on. The morning may be calm
and beautiful, yet long before noon it may be blow-
ing a furious gale of wind.
In Japan the rainy season is much more decided
in its character than it is in China. The hearty
way in which the rains come down reminded me
more of the season in Upper India, amongst the
southern ranges of the Himalayas, than of that in
China. But the rainy season in Japan is short
when compared with India. It usually commences
about the middle of May and lasts to the middle
or end of June; and a glance at the table will show.
that these two months are by far the wettest in
the year. This is the time when the monsoon is
changing from north to south. The southerly


268
Chap. XVI.
EARTHQUAKES.
winds come up loaded with moisture which they
have acquired in their passage over the sea
through warm latitudes. This moisture is sud-
denly condensed into thick fogs as it comes in
contact with the land, which has been cooled
down to a low temperature by the long-continued
northerly winds.*
In 1860 but little snow fell on the low lands,
although it was plentiful upon the adjoining
mountains. But if Dr. Hepburn's table shows
little snow, it is most prolific in earthquakes. In
June there were no less than eleven shocks, and
during the year the total number felt was thirty-
two! When we take into consideration the num-
ber that occurred during the hours of sleep, which
were not felt and registered, we may have some
idea of the activity of the volcanos which lie under
this extraordinary country.
Having thus given some idea of the climate of
Japan, of "its summer and winter, its seed-time
and harvest," I shall now endeavour to give a
description of its agriculture. As a profession
agriculture does not hold the same rank in Japan
as it does in China. The Tycoon does not here
mark his sense of its importance by putting his
hands to the plough and throwing the first grains
of rice into the ground, as is done by the " Son of
. Heaven." In social rank the farmer is said to be
below the Buddhist priest, the soldier, the mer-
* - Sir John Davis's 'Chinese.'


Chap. XVI.
269
GEOLOGY.
chant, and even the petty shopkeeper. We are
told that he is but the serf of the great landed pro-
prietor, and that he is heavily taxed and kept in a
state of complete degradation. I am not in a posi-
tion to deny these statements, but I can affirm,
from personal observation in many parts of the
country, that the farmers and their families live in
good comfortable-looking houses, are well clothed,
well fed, and appear to be happy and contented.
It is just possible, however, that they may be a
wealthier class in the territory adjoining the Im-
•perial cities, such as Nagasaki and Yedo, than in
that of the vassal princes and feudal lords of the
soil.
The geological formation of the country and the
composition of the soil vary greatly in the differ-
ent districts. In the island of Kiu-siu, in the
south, and also in Sikok, the upper sides of the
hills are generally barren, with rocks of clay-slate
and granite protruding. On the lower sides of
the hills and in the valleys, where cultivation is
carried on, the soil consists of clay and sand mixed
with vegetable matter. On the south side of
Nipon, Mr. Alcock informs us, the hills are formed
of " sandstone and sand, and the valleys and plains
seem little else." About three days' journey to
the south of Fusi-yama, "the dark rich soil of the
volcanic regions first appeared." In the country
round the capital the soil is of a blackish-brown
colour, composed chiefly of vegetable matter, and
bears some resemblance to that winch is found


270
Chap. XVI.
AGRICULTURE.
in the peat-bogs of England. This description of
soil, as I have already noticed, is not confined to
the low valleys, but is also met with on the tops of
the hills.
The agricultural productions of Japan may be
divided into two great classes, namely, the winter
and the summer crops. The winter crops consist
of wheat, barley, cabbage oil-plant (Brassica sinen-
sis), and other cabbage for the table, together with
buckwheat, peas, beans, onions, and English pota-
toes. The three first-mentioned may be consi-
dered as the staple winter productions. All these -
crops are cultivated on land which is above the
level of the rice valleys. The wheat and barley
are sown in the end of October or beginning of
November; these soon vegetate, and cover the
hill-sides with lively green during the winter
months. The seed is sown in rows, about two feet
three inches apart, and is dropped in the drills by
the hand in patches, each containing from twenty-
five to thirty seeds, these patches being about a foot
apart from each other in the drill. As the land
has been carefully cleaned and prepared previously
to sowing, scarcely any further labour is necessary
during the winter and following spring.
Early in the month of April the hill-sides are
yellow with the flowers of the cabbage oil-plant,
and the air is filled with its fragrance. About the
10th of May the wheat and barley are in full ear,
and the seed-pods of the cabbage are swelling and
coming fast to maturity. The latter ripens near


Chap. XVI.
271
HARVEST.
Yedo about the end of the month, and the oil har-
vest begins. The plant is not cut like corn, but
is pulled up by the root, and laid on the field
where it has been growing. When it has lain for
a few days to dry, a convenient space is cleared in
the middle of the prostrate crop, upon which mats
are laid, and the labourers (women chiefly) take
the stalks, handful by handful, and tread out the
seeds upon the mats. In the beginning of June
fires are seen all over the country, and smoke fills
the air. The rape-seed has been harvested, and
the farmers are now engaged in burning the stalks
and other refuse on the land, with the view of
getting the ashes for the summer crops which are
now being sown to take the place of the rape.
The barley harvest commences in the first days
of June, and in 1861 was in full operation on the
5th of that month. The corn is cut with a small
hook exactly like that which is used in China. A
portion of this is carried home to the farm-houses at
once, in order to be secure from the weather, which
is rather moist at this period of the year. Here
the heads of corn are separated from the stalks by
beating them over a bamboo grating. The bamboo,
being flinty and sharp, cuts off the heads at every
stroke, and leaves them to fall through the grating
to the ground. In the court-yard of every farm-
house there is a broad flooring of chunnam, hard
and smooth, on which the corn is laid and thrashed
out with a flail, in the same way as in the olden
time in England.


274
Chap. XVI.
MANURES.
plant, turnips, radishes, carrots, onions, gobbo
(Arctium gobbo), cucumbers and melons, ginger,
yams, and sweet potatoes.
No time is lost in getting these crops into the
ground. The corn, I have already observed, is
grown in rows, and some time before it is ripe
the spaces between the rows are carefully weeded,
stirred up, and manured with burnt ashes. The
summer crops are then sown or planted between
the rows of the ripening corn, and have made con-
siderable progress in their growth before it is har-
vested. In this way a longer season of growth is
secured. When the corn has been cut, the stubble,
after a short time, is hoed up and drawn to the
side of the new crop, where it rots and forms
manure.
The manures which are used for these crops con-
sist chiefly of burnt ashes at the time of sowing,
and of night-soil diluted with water during the
period of growth. Night-soil and urine are care-
fully collected and deposited in large earthen jars,
which are sunk on the sides of the fields.
Sweet potatoes are preserved during winter in
a square plot of ground in the farm-yard. This
is surrounded with a straw fence, and covered
over with paddy husks and straw when the
weather is cold. Early in May,—the winter
covering having been removed,-—the potatoes
begin to grow rapidly, and send out numerous
young shoots, which are made into "cuttings,"
and transplanted at once into the fields. This


Chap. XVI. RICE-CULTIVATION.
275
transplanting commences about the end of May>
and continues all June. When these cuttings are
put into the ground, they seem to form roots and
grow as easily as couch grass. But then this
operation takes place during the rainy season,
when the sky is often cloudy, and when the air is
charged with moisture,—a circumstance which
fully accounts for its success.
The second class of summer crops are those
which grow chiefly in the low valleys, and require
irrigation during the period of their growth.
Rice, the staple food of the people, is one of the
principal of these, and by far the most important.
The variety in cultivation is, I think, superior to
the kinds met with in China and in India, and is
probably the best in Asia.
The rice-lands generally lie fallow all the
winter, and consequently yield only one crop in
the year. In the last days of April, or about the
first of May, little patches of land are prepared in
the corners of the fields as seed-beds for the young
paddy. Here the seed is sown thickly, sometimes
having been steeped in liquid manure previously
to its being sown. It vegetates in a wonderfully
short space of time—three or four days, if the
weather be warm and moist, as it generally is at
this season of the year. In the mean time, while
this is vegetating in the seed-beds, the labourers
are busily employed in preparing the land into
which it is to be transplanted.
In China the rice-land is usually prepared by the
T 2


276
RICE-CULTIVATION. Chap. XVI.
plough and harrow, drawn by the bullock or the
buffalo. These animals are rarely seen in Japan
employed in this way; at least, they did not come
under my 'observation. The rice-lands are pre-
pared almost entirely by manual labour. A
strong three-pronged fork, having the prongs
bent like a hoe, is used for this purpose. The
land is then flooded, and manured with grass and
weeds cut and brought from adjacent waste
ground, and used in a fresh state, as I have
already described. The surface of the fields is
then made smooth, and is considered ready for
the young rice in the seed-beds.
The transplanting of the young paddy com-
mences about the 8th of June. About three
inches of water cover the surface of the fields, and
the planting goes on with the most astonishing
rapidity. The work is performed exactly in the
same way as it is in China. A labourer takes a
load of plants under his left arm, and drops them
in little bundles over the surface of the land about
to be planted, knowing, almost to a plant, what
number will be required. Others, both men and
women, take up the bundles which are thus
thrown down, and the planting commences. The
proper number of plants are selected and planted
in rows, by the hand, in the muddy soil. When
the hand is drawn up, the water rushes in, carry-
ing down with it a portion of the soil, and thus
the roots are covered instantaneously. Cranes, or
herons, follow the labourers in the fields, and pick


278 ANIMALS FEW IN NUMBER. Chap. XVI.
loosening and stirring up the soil between the
rows, and removing any weeds. It is ripe and is
harvested in November.
Amongst other agricultural productions which
grow in the valleys of Japan, may be mentioned,
Arum esculentum, Scirpus tuberosum, and Juncus effu-
sus, the latter being used in the manufacture of
mats which are so common in the country. In
the lakes and ponds large quantities of nelum-
bium-roots are grown, and are used as a vegetable
and also in the production of a kind of arrow-
root.
Such is a short account of Japanese farming as it
presented itself to me in the autumn and winter of
1860, and spring and summer of 1861. The farms
are small in extent when compared with those in
western countries, and the homesteads also present
a very different appearance to ours. They have
no "lowing of oxen or bleating of sheep;" a
stray pack-horse, or a solitary ox, may some-
times be seen, but these are only used as beasts of
burden. Pigs may sometimes be met with, but
they are generally kept in the background out of
view; pork, however, is abundant in the butchers'
shops. Goats and sheep do not appear to be
indigenous; some of the latter have been im-
ported from China, but the experiment of accli-
matising them has not yet succeeded. They
invariably become diseased, and die off. Cows
or oxen are little used in agriculture, and it is
probable that the Japanese, like their neighbours


Chap. XVI.
279
WASTE LANDS.
in China, have religious scruples as to using such
animals for food.
It has been frequently repeated, by writers on
Japan, that "hardly a foot of ground, to the very
tops of the mountains, is left uncultivated." I
have already shown in a previous chapter that
such is not the case; that thousands of acres of
fertile land are lying uncultivated, and covered
with trees planted by nature, and brushwood, of
little value. One naturally asks why these lands,
which are capable of cultivation, should be allowed
to lie in this unproductive condition. Is it because
there is more than enough to supply the wants of
a people that, for ages past, have been shut out
from the rest of the world, and have therefore,
while they have not contributed to the wants of
others, been accustomed to rely entirely upon
themselves for food and clothing ? *
I cannot conclude this description of Japanese
agriculture without noticing the remarkable con-
nection which exists between the climate and the
productions of the country, and how well they are
suited to each other. The rainy season does not
come on until the dry winter and spring crops are
ripe, and ready to be harvested. When the rice-
planting begins, and when the cuttings of the
sweet potato are being put out, the air becomes
loaded with moisture, and the rain comes down in
* The land in question is suitable for the dry crops only—not rice-
land. Rice in considerable quantities is brought from the Loo-choo
islands to Nipon.


280 CROPS AND SEASONS. Chap. XVI.
torrents. Every hill stream is filled with water,
and thus the means of irrigating the rice-fields are
ready to the hands of the husbandman. Such
excessive moisture would have been fatal to the
wheat and barley and rape, but it gives life and
vigour to the paddy and sweet potatoes, and is
necessary for their health and luxuriance. The
tea-plant, too, which, at this season, has had its
first leaves plucked, is revived by the moist air
and frequent showers, and is enabled to push forth
with renewed vigour, and to yield fresh supplies.
And when excessive moisture is no longer neces-
sary to these summer products, the rain ceases, the
sky becomes clear, and the, air comparatively dry;
Then the process of ripening begins, and a sunny,
autumn enables the husbandman to gather into his
barns the fruits of his anxious labours.


Chap. XVII. NATURAL PRODUCTIONS.
281
CHAPTER XVII.
Other productions of Japan — Silk, tea, &c. — Silk country — Value
of silk — Tea districts — Curious statements on tea cultivation —
Value of exports from Kanagawa in 1860-61 — Means of increasing
the supplies of silk and tea— Prospects on the opening of the new
ports — Japanese objections to the opening — The Tycoon's letter to
the Queen — Ministers' letter to Mr. Alcock — Their recommenda-
tions considered — Danger of opening Yedo at present—Remarks
on the other ports — Trade probably overrated — Japaneso mer-
chants compared with Chinese — Prejudices against traders in
Japan — Foreign officials and these prejudices — War with Japan
not improbable.
In addition to the agricultural productions which
I have just described, there are many other articles
in the country "pleasant to the sight and good
for food," which are worthy of attention now that
the Japanese have entered into the great family
of nations. Perhaps no country in the world is
more independent of other countries than Japan.
She has, within herself, enough to supply all the
wants and luxuries of life. The productions of
the tropics, as well as those of temperate regions,
are found in her fields and gathered into her
barns. Wherever there are mountain ranges,
coal, lead, iron, and copper are found, and not
unfrequently the precious metals. Tea, silk,
cotton, vegetable wax, and oils are produced in
abundance all over the country. Ginseng and


282
Chap. XVII.
SILK COUNTRY.
other medicines, with salt fish and seaweed, are
largely exported to China.
Silk and tea are, at present, the most important
and valuable articles of export to Europe and
America. I am indebted to Mr. Keswick, of the
well-known house of Messrs. Jardine, Matheson,
and Co., one of the earliest settlers at Yokuhama,
for the following information regarding these
articles of export. As Mr. Keswick was daily in
communication with merchants from all parts of
the country, and as he had considerable knowledge
of the language, his means of acquiring informa-
tion of this kind were greatly superior to my own.
"Silk is more or less produced in almost every
province of the island of Nipon north of Osaca,
but the four districts in which it is found in the
greatest abundance are Oshue, Joeshue, Koshue,
and Sinshue. Oshue produces the largest quan-
tity, but the silk does not equal in quality and
fineness of size that of the other districts. Joeshue
and Sinshue are noted for the fine size of their
silk; and even in the London market, when the
best China silk was selling at 25s., it brought as
high a price as 30s. per lb." These districts are
situated in the northern part of the island of
Nipon, and I believe are nearer to the port of
Hakodadi than to Yokuhama. Japanese silk is
more carefully reeled than Chinese, and is gene-
rally of better quality. At present it is nearly all
bought for the Continent, and much more would
be consumed if it could be obtained.


Chap. XVII.
283
TEA-PLANT.
"Tea is produced, or grows wild, in all the
provinces of the island of Kiu-siu, and throughout
the greater part of Nipon. The finest qualities
come from Ya-mu-si-ro, but the two largest pro-
ducing districts are Isay and Owari. Suringa,
Simosa, and Koshue are the provinces which
supply the Kanagawa market with the earliest
new tea; but as the season advances, large sup-
plies arrive from the districts bordering on the
Inland Sea."
The tea-plant is said to have been introduced
into Japan from China about the beginning of
the ninth century by a Buddhist priest named
Yeitsin, who presented the first cup of the bever-
age to the reigning Mikado. It is now constantly
observed on the sides of the roads, and in the
gardens of the farmers and cottagers, who appear,
in many instances, to cultivate only as much as
will supply the wants of their families. I met
with it in this way about Nagasaki and Kana-
gawa, and in larger quantities in the vicinity of
the capital. There can be no doubt, I think, that
the great tea districts of Japan are in the country
near Osaca and Miaco, the residence of the
Mikado. Should this prove correct, then the new
port of Hiogo, in the Inland Sea, or some place in
its vicinity, may, one day, prove of considerable
value to our merchants.
Curious and almost romantic statements have
been published regarding the mode of cultivating
the tea-plant in Japan,—statements which, I am


284
TEA-CULTIVATION. Chap. XVII.
afraid, are more curious than truthful. Take the
following as an example: "The plantations are
situated remote from the habitations of man, and
as much as may be from all other crops, lest the
delicacy of the tea should suffer from smoke,
impurity, or contamination of any kind. They
are manured with dried anchovies and a liquor
pressed out of mustard-seed. They must enjoy
the unobstructed beams of the morning sun, and
thrive best upon well-watered hill-sides. The
plant is pollarded to render it more branching,
and therefore more productive, and must be five
years old before the leaves are gathered." (!)
How our worthy tea-farmers in Japan and China
would laugh if they were told that such things
were written about their mode of cultivating the
tea-plant!
Such statements remind me of reading, in a
book upon China, an account of rice cultivation, in
which the writer cannot understand the practice
of sowing the rice-seeds very thickly in highly-
manured beds in the corners of the fields. He
sagely concludes thai? it must be upon the prin-
ciple of "the more the merrier"! It never
occurred to his mind that these are merely seed-
beds, where the plants are being reared for the
purpose of transplanting, and that he may see the
same kind of practice in any cabbage-garden in
England. And the readers of the remarks on
tea-cultivation quoted above may rest assured that
that useful plant may be cultivated successfully,


286 PROSPECT OP INCREASED SUPPLIES. Chap. XVII.
mere trifle; whereas, from July, 1860, to July,
1861, it amounted to near 5,000,000 lbs. Such
figures as these place the growing nature of our
trade, and its importance, beyond question,- and
require no comment."
From my own observations in different parts of
the country, I am fully convinced that the
Japanese have the means of producing an almost
unlimited supply of both these staple articles of
export, and more particularly of tea. Thousands
of acres of valuable land, on which the tea-plant
would yield an abundant crop of leaves, are now
lying waste, or in an unproductive condition. We
may, therefore, look forward with confidence to
increased supplies of tea from Japan, and also, I
hope, to an improvement in their manipulation,
and consequently in their flavour.
When the other ports and cities named in the
treaty are opened to foreign trade, there will be
a large increase in the value of both exports and
imports. But the Japanese authorities are making
great exertions to put off, what appears to them to
be, "the evil day." The Tycoon himself has
written a letter to Her Majesty the Queen of
Great Britain, in which he states, "there are
various objections that the Article of the Treaty
providing for the opening of the ports of Hiogo
and Ne-egata, and for the carrying on of trade in
the cities of Yedo and Osaca, should be brought
into operation on the conditions stated therein ;"
and he desires, therefore, "to defer the opening


Chap. XVII. ON OPENING NEW TORTS.
287
of these places for a time." The Ministers for
Foreign Affairs, also, have addressed Mr. Alcock
upon the same subject. They begin by stating
that nearly three hundred years have elapsed since
the empire discontinued its intercourse with
Foreign Powers; that recently, in consequence of
the urgent advice of the President of the United
States and of the King of the Netherlands, this
old-standing law was altered, and foreign vessels,
sailing near the coasts, were allowed to put in at
the ports of Simoda and Hakodadi for fuel, provi-
sions, and water. Again, after the arrival of the
American Minister, the Government, having taken
into consideration " the existing posture of foreign
affairs," concluded the treaty of amity which lately
entered into operation, and established free-trade
in the same manner, first with Great Britain, &c.
But the actual result of this proceeding differed
considerably from what had been anticipated.
"No profit has yet been derived; but the lower
classes of the people have already suffered loss
thereby." The price of things is daily increasing,
in consequence of the large quantity of products
which are exported to foreign countries; and the
people, when deprived of the means of gaining
their livelihood, ascribe the cause to trade and are
discontented. Even the wealthier classes, it is
hinted, are likely to condemn the abrogation of
the previously existing prohibition, and may -
desire the restitution of the former law. This
being the result of opening two or three ports to


288 ON OPENING NEW PORTS. Chap. XVII.
foreign trade, every one is grieved when he reads
the stipulations of the treaty, which state that the
ports of Hiogo and Ne-egata are to be opened, and
that foreign trade will also be carried on at the
cities of Yedo and Osaca, by which the loss and
the injury will be still further increased.
The Ministers further state that "the popular
spirit having already arrived at such a pitch, it
is very difficult even for the power and the autho-
rity of the Government so to manage that each
one should clearly understand the future advantage,
and to cause them to endure for a time the present
grief." Should the Government use violence in
carrying out the stipulations of the treaty, "it
would be uncertain what mischief would result
from such an act against the national spirit."
In order, therefore, not to press too heavily upon
the people, and to give time to the ignorant to
accustom themselves to free-trade, and to feel its
benefits, the Ministers propose to defer the open-
ing of the two ports * and two cities for the space
of seven years, and to agree that they shall be
opened in 1868.
The document, of which I have just given the
substance, is an able one, and demands most
careful attention from the Governments of foreign
powers who have treaties with Japan. As a
general rule it is bad policy to waive any treaty-
right with Orientals, as, in the case of China and
* Nc-egata is found to be useless as a port, and another will be
chosen.


Chap. XVII. ON OPENING NEW PORTS. 289
the question of our being allowed to enter the city
of Canton, such a proceeding may plunge us into
future and expensive wars. But the Japanese
question is a peculiar one. The Government
evidently felt it had committed a mistake when it
agreed to the treaty, and would now gladly return
to the old state of things. As its experience of
foreigners had been confined to the Dutch at
Desima, who had carried on their trade in one or
two ships a year, it had no idea that merchants
with large capitals would come in such numbers,
and that fleets of ships would arrive to carry off
the produce of the country. And the statements
the Ministers now made were perfectly true; pro-
visions had increased in price; the people were
getting discontented, attributing the rise in prices
to the presence and action of foreigners, and not
understanding or caring for free-trade and its
future benefits. In this state of things it is not at
all unlikely that, if the opening of the new ports
were pressed, a rebellion might take place which
the Government would not have the power to put
down.
There may -be a difference of opinion as to the
propriety of agreeing to defer the opening of
Hiogo and Osaca, with another port on the west
coast instead of Ne-egata, but, I think, all who
have studied the matter must agree as to the
necessity of not pressing, at present at least, the
opening of Yedo. I believe, even if it were
agreed to by the Government, it would be attended
u


2no
DANGER OF OPENING YEDO. Chap. XVII.
with the greatest danger. I have already shown
the character of the population that crowds the
streets of this city,—idle retainers from all parts
of the country, full of prejudice against foreigners,
always armed with sharp swords^ and ready to use
them upon the slightest provocation, or with no
provocation at all. Against these men and their
masters the Government itself would seem to be
almost powerless. "Both the American treaties
were inaugurated by the death of the reigning
Tycoon who signed or sanctioned them, the first
by the sword and the second by poison. One of
the royal brothers was deposed and exiled, and
the Regent of the kingdom was slain in revenge
for this act by the Prince of Mito's followers." *
A city like this would, therefore, be a most
unsafe place for a number of foreigners, full of life
and high spirits, with customs and manners very
different from those of the Japanese, and which
the latter, oftentimes, can neither understand nor
appreciate. In such a place life and property
would always be insecure, and it is not unlikely
that, sooner or later, a general massacre might be
attempted. With these things before our eyes,—
believing the Government to be anxious for our
safety, but to be almost powerless, feeling its
weakness and dreading the future, are we pre-
pared to incur the risk of opening Yedo, or to
punish the Government if it fails to protect us?
It seems idle to talk of holding the Government
* Mr. Alcock's despatch to Earl Russell.


Chap. XVII. AS TO OTHER PORTS. 291
responsible for our safety in a country where it is
so weak as not to be able to protect itself. Taking,
therefore, into consideration the dangers attending
the opening of Yedo to foreign merchants, and the
fact that we have already a port of trade within a
few miles of it to which its produce can be easily
brought, where we can reside and trade in compa-
rative security, I think it will be wise to waive our
right to the opening of that city, at least for the
present.
It seems doubtful, however, whether we should also
give way to the proposal of deferring the opening
of Hiogo and Osaca, in the Inland Sea, as also of
a port on the west coast, should a suitable one be
found there, to take the place of Ne-egata. Al-
though the ignorance and prejudices of the people
may be as great against us in these places as at
Yedo, yet the same dangers to life and property
are certainly not so apparent. And if it be worth
our while to have a footing in these places at all,
it is almost certain that the difficulties in our way
will be as great seven years hence as they are at
the present time. We might, therefore, meet the
Japanese Government half-way, by insisting that
the provisions of the treaty be carried out in so far
as these places are concerned, while we waived, for
the present, our right of residing and trading in
the capital itself.
But it seems doubtful whether the Tycoon's
Government has the power to ratify the treaties
made with foreign nations without the sanction of
u 2


292
TREATIES NOT YET RATIFIED Chap. XVII.
the Mikado; and this high and mysterious per-
sonage, it is suspected, has not yet given such
sanction. The following note on this subject has
just appeared in the 'China Mail,' and is worth
attentive perusal :—
"It is well known now that the Mikado has not
yet given his formal consent to the treaties made
with the Foreign Powers, and it must be evident
that without his consent those treaties have no
legal value in the eyes of the Japanese princes and
people. This, then, is the root of all the recent
troubles. This is the reason why the Tycoon's
Government is not able to defend our Ministers
and us, and is hardly able to defend itself, from the
attacks of the malcontents who seek its embarrass-
ment or our expulsion. This is why it does not
and dare not punish those assassins who from time
to time cut unoffending foreigners to pieces in the
open streets, or in the very teeth of the native
guard and at the door of the British Minister.
This is why it endeavours to restrict our trade and
to make its further pursuit uninviting. This is
why it refused to open Yedo last January, and is
reluctant to open Osaca next January. This is
why we are desired to retire to Nagasaki, where
foreign trade has long been established, and are
offered there the facilities denied us here (Yedo).
In short, this is why there is no peace or friend-
ship for foreigners in this part of Japan, and
why neither our political nor our commercial
relations with this people are what they ought to


Chap. XVII.
293
BY THE MIKADO.
be. It is not pretended that the Tycoon's Govern-
ment is implicated in the numerous crimes which
have marked with tracks of blood the history of our
three years' relations with Japan. Doubtless this
Government deplores those crimes as sincerely as
any one. But it is powerless to prevent them; and
for this plain reason—that it has not yet been
able to abolish one of the laws of Gongen-Sama, in
virtue of which licence is given to slay foreigners
wherever they may be found. It is, then, useless
for us to wait here with our lives in our hands
while the Tycoon slowly gathers from our trade,
and from his own enterprises, the means and the
power to overcome these laws, and to redeem his
promises to us. Either we must leave the country,
or we must obtain from the only ruler who is
supreme in it the full ratification of the rights and
privileges we came here to enjoy. There is no
middle course. Compromises, postponements, con-
cessions, all half-measures, are of no avail in this
matter. I repeat, therefore, that the alternative is
either to have the treaties recognised by the real
Government of the empire, or to abandon them as
worthless, and depart from a country where we are
unwelcome and unsafe."
As a place of trade, Japan, with all its advan-
tages, has been probably overrated, particularly
as a mart for our manufactures. There is no
doubt, however, that it can supply us with large
quantities of silk and tea, and thus render us
less dependent on China for those articles which


294 JAPANESE AND CHINESE MERCHANTS. Chap. XVn.
have now become indispensable to our happiness
and comfort. But as a customer to our manu-
facturing districts, Japan will never be equal to
China.
As merchants, too, the Chinese appear to be far
ahead of the Japanese. While a Japanese would
be haggling for a few cash on a hank of silk or
a pound of tea, a Chinaman would be quietly
settling for a ship-load of the same articles. Expe-
rience has also shown that the Chinese trader
is more to be depended upon than the Japanese.
Indeed, as merchants of honour and talent, I doubt
if the former are to be excelled in any part of the
world. That pithy little sentence which concludes
a bargain, "put-e-book," or "book it," is consi-
dered as binding as if it was registered by "the
Bank of England; and rarely indeed will a China-
man recede from his bargain, even if its fulfilment
should involve him in an unfortunate speculation.
At present this cannot be said of the Japanese;
but they may probably improve when they become
better acquainted with foreigners, and when
others, now in the background, come into the
field.
Traders in Japan, however wealthy or intelli-
gent, are looked down upon with disdain by the
merest serf of the Daimios; and the merchants of
foreign countries are treated much in the same
way. This state of things will not surprise any
one acquainted with the history of our own
country in the feudal ages. Every one doubtless


296
Chap. XVII.
WAR NOT IMPROBABLE.
no doubt, partly to our wide-spread dominions and
to our extensive commerce—we have war always
forced upon us against our inclinations; and that
this will be one of the results of our new treaty
with Japan, there is, as I have already said, but
too much reason to anticipate.


298
Chap. XVIII.
VISIT FROM THE
beaten off by the guard. M. de Wit had been one
of the party who had come overland from Naga-
saki with Mr. Alcock, and it was alleged that his
life was sought for on that account. Another
report stated that there had been no attack at all,
but that the guard had been indulging rather
freely in strong drinks, by which means it had
been enabled to see an attacking force which
existed only in an overheated imagination. Then
another Dutchman, who was sleeping at the hotel
of the town, was alarmed by a two-sworded man
entering his bedroom in the dead of the night, in
search, it was supposed, of the correspondent of
the 'Illustrated London News,' then staying at
the hotel, who had also been another of the offend-
ing overland party. The good Dutchman was
greatly alarmed, and did not appreciate the honour
of being killed in the place of "Our own Corre-
spondent." There were sceptics amongst us who
did not credit these rumours, and I merely men-
tion them to show the state of alarm which then
existed.
At this time I was still living alone in my large
temple at Kanagawa. One day, as I was sitting
in the verandah arranging my herbarium and
drying my paper, several two-sworded men made
their appearance at the end of the avenue. I
began to speculate on the chance of an attack,
when I was relieved from all apprehension by
seeing a number of others come upon the scene,
amongst whom there appeared to be some persons


Chap. XVIII. GOVERNOR OF KAN AG A WA.
299
of high rank. An interpreter was sent forward to
inform me that the Governor himself was my
visitor, and that he had come to make an inspec-
tion of the paling and hedges which surrounded
the grounds, in order to see whether there were
any holes through which lodnins could crawl and
do me mortal injury. If any such holes existed,
he was good enough to say, he would have them
. repaired. The idea was an amusing one, and cal-
culated to excite a smile on my countenance. If
any lodnins wanted me, they could have had no
difficulty in getting in even after the fence was
repaired; but being in Japan, I took the matter
very gravely, and asked the interpreter to express
my thanks to his Excellency the Governor for his
care for my safety.
The Governor and his attendants now made the
circuit of the fences, and examined all the weak
places, after which they returned to me in the
verandah of the temple. It was now explained to
me that one or two little holes existed which
should be closed, and that the gate of the cemetery
which led into the ground would be nailed up.
I was then asked to what nation I belonged—was
I English, French, or American? I replied I was
an Englishman. "Was I a Government official
or a merchant?" I was neither, but had visited
Japan for the purpose of making collections of
natural history. I then showed them my stores of
living and dried plants, insects, shells, and books,
with which they appeared greatly pleased. I ex-


302
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED. Chap. XVIII.
size in Japan, and forms a most remarkable and
beautiful object when in flower.
I had now accomplished the object which I had
in view in coming to Zipangu. I had carefully
examined the country during autumn and winter,
spring and summer, in search of new trees and
other plants of an ornamental character which
were likely to prove suitable to our English
climate. Large collections of insects and land-
shells had also been made; and my spare time had
been employed in procuring examples of works of
art, particularly of ancient lacquer, for which this
country has long been famous in Europe. The
agriculture of Japan—the productions of the hills
and those of the plains, the wet crops and the dry
ones—had been carefully examined at the different
seasons, and fully described from time to time in
my Journal. While engaged in work of this kind
I came much in contact with various classes of the
people, and had an opportunity of observing their
habits and customs in daily life. The political
state of the country, its relations with foreign
powers, and the prospects of foreign trade, had all
passed in review before me, and enabled me to
draw my own conclusions. This was the work
which I had proposed to myself to do, and thus far
it had been brought to a successful termination.
My collections of living plants and other objects
of natural history were now very large and valu-
able, and the whole had to be arranged and


Chap. XVIII.
303
CURIOSITY OF NATIVES.
packed. I determined to take them over to China
under my own care, as the monsoon was still
blowing strong from the south, and it was too
early to ship them for home. A number of Ward's
cases which had been made for me by Japanese
carpenters were now filled with soil, and planted
with many rare and beautiful examples of the
trees and shrubs of Japan. During the opefation
of planting I was visited by many of the inha-
bitants of Kanagawa, who evidently watched my
proceedings with a good deal of curiosity and in-
terest. They had never seen such queer little
greenhouses before, and made many inquiries re-
garding the treatment of the plants during their
long voyage. When I told them that the plants
would be four or five months at sea, and that
during that long period they would never receive
any water—that in fact the cases would never be
opened from the time they left China until they
reached England—they looked rather puzzled and
incredulous; but this was not to be wondered at,
as that little fact has puzzled wiser heads than
'theirs.
When I had got everything ready for shipment,
Her Majesty's Consul, Captain F. Howard Vyse,
to whom I was indebted for many acts of courtesy
during my residence in Kanagawa, gave me a
note to the customhouse authorities, who allowed
me to ship my collections free of duty, and, what
was of even more importance, without being
opened and unpacked.


304
ARRIVAL IN CHINA. Chap. XVIII.
On the morning of the 29th of July, 1861, the
1 Fiery Cross,' Captain Crockett, in which I was a
passenger, got her steam up and stood out to sea.
As we. passed rapidly onwards towards the mouth
of the bay, the towns of Yokuhama and Kanagawa,
with the well-known headlands in their vicinity,
gradually disappeared from our view, and I bade
farewell to the green hills and lovely scenery of
Japan. We had a pleasant passage down the
North Pacific Ocean, through Van Dieman's Strait,
and across the Tung-Hai or Eastern Sea, and
arrived at Shanghae in China on a hot morning
on the 4th of August. My plants, which had
come over in excellent order, were now landed
and placed in Mr. Webb's garden here, where
they were to remain until the season arrived for
shipping them to England. In the mean time it
was my intention to visit the scenes of the late
war in the north, and if possible the city of Peking,
and the mountains beyond it.


Chap. XIX. PORT OP CHEFOO.
1305
CHAPTEE XIX.
Leave Shanghae for Peking — Port of Chefoo — Agricultural and
natural products — The Pei-ho river — Arrival at Tien-tain —
Salt-mounds — Suburbs — Mean buildings — Active trade — Noisy
coolies — Shops — Large warehouses — Hawkers — Gambling pro-
pensities of the people — The city — Ruinous ramparts—Filthy
streets — Surrounding country — Salt plain — Gardens and nurse-
ries— Winter houses for plants—Fruit-trees cultivated in pots —
Fruit ice-houses — Vineyards — San-ko-lin-tsin's Folly — Winter
in Tien-tsin.
On the 11th of August I Bailed from Shanghae
for Chefoo, in Her Majesty's despatch boat' Atta-
lante,' and reached that port on the 16th. Chefoo,
or rather Yentae, for that is the name of the place,
is one of the ports which have been opened to trade
under Lord Elgin's treaty. It is in the province
of Shantung, on the south side of the Gulf of Pe-
chele. The town is a poor straggling place, and
does not seem to be of much value as a place of
trade. The harbour, however, is good, and is
much frequented by junks engaged in the coasting
trade. When I went on shore I was kindly re-
ceived by H. B. M. Consul, M. C. Morrison, Esq.,
an old and valued friend whom I had known from
my first visit to China in 1844.
It may be remembered that Chefoo or Yentae
x


306 CHEFOO—NATURAL PRODUCTS. Chap. XIX.
had been occupied by the French troops during
the late war, and at the time of my visit there
were two French ships of war in the harbour, and
the town was still partially occupied by the French.
It is certainly a healthy station, and has a fine
beach for sea-bathing, but those who think it import-
ant as a place for foreign trade will, I fear, be
disappointed. It may, however, be of some value
as a mail station in the winter season when the
approaches to the Pei-ho river are frozen up. Ships
can always get to Yentae, and the mails can be
brought overland from Peking and Tien-tsin and
shipped at Yentae.
The soil of the surrounding country is very
fertile in the valleys and low lands, but the hills
are extremely barren. The cultivated lands pro-
duce large crops of beans (Dolichos), peas, and
several kinds of millet, one of which is not met
with in the more southern parts of the empire.
It grows to the height of from twelve to fifteen
feet, and is, I believe, the Sorghum, which has, of
late years, been introduced to Europe, and is said
to be a good substitute for the sugar-cane. When
in a young, growing state its stem is sweet to the
taste, but I doubt its containing sugar enough to
compete with the sugar-cane of commerce. It
may, however, prove useful as food for cattle.
On the hill-sides I observed two trees of an
ornamental and useful description, and secured a
portion of their seeds, which are now growing in
this country. The one is a curious pine, which,


308
TIEN-TSIN—SALT-HEAPS. Chap. XIX.
are, but steamed in at once and dropped anchor in
the Pei-ho abreast of the forts. The next day I
went up to the port of Tien-tsin in a gun-boat
which was employed to take up the mails and
stores for our troops, which still held possession of
that city.
A wonderful change has come over the Pei-ho
since the days of Lords Macartney and Amherst,
and of Staunton and Davis. Steam has now in-
vaded its quiet waters, and gun-boats and other
vessels go puffing and snorting upon it all day long.
Instead of thousands of curious natives lining the
shores and covering the salt-heaps as in the days
of yore, English and French soldiers and merchants
were observed in considerable numbers as we ap-
proached the city, and our appearance seemed to
be a matter of too common occurrence to be heeded
by the natives.
The wonderful collection of salt-heaps noticed
by former travellers were still here and at once
attracted our attention. During my stay in Tien-
tsin I paid a visit to these salt-heaps in order to
get some idea of their extent. They are placed
on a piece of level land on the left bank of the
river, just below the town. Many millions of
bags, filled with coarse salt, are here heaped up in
the form of hay-stacks. These stacks are about
thirty feet in height, twenty in width, and of vari-
ous lengths. To give an idea of the enormous
quantity of salt collected here, I may mention that
these stacks cover a space of ground fully a mile


Chap. XIX.
309
SALT-HEAPS.
in length, and in some places a quarter of a mile
in width! The ground on which they are placed
is raised a considerable height above high-water
mark, and is perfectly level and smooth. The
salt-heaps have their ends at right angles with the
river, and between each range there is a small
open drain for the purpose of carrying off the
rain-water and to keep the bottom bags dry.
The bags are made of split bamboo, and are conse-
quently very strong, and mats are thrown over
the whole to afford the protection of a roof and to
carry off the rain. On looking at the enormous
quantity of salt roughly stored in this manner, one
is apt to imagine that a considerable portion must
be wasted, particularly during the wet months of
spring and autumn. But the Chinese are too
economical in their habits to allow any great
amount of waste to take place, and therefore I
suppose the rough covering must be more efficient
than it would appear at first sight. That a por-
tion of the salt gets melted was apparent enough;
the little drains between the heaps were full of
it, either in the form of salt-water or of salt itself.
The view from the top of one of these salt-heaps
was curious and novel. The whole place had a
wintry aspect, the ground was whitened as if with
hoar-frost, and as I walked over it a crisp crushing
noise was heard as if one was walking on frosted
snow. On these grounds not a blade of grass or
green thing was visible, and, had it not been for
the view of green trees and fields in the distance,


310
Chap. XIX.
SUBURBS OP TIEN-TSIN.
and the warm autumnal air which was blowing, I
might easily have fancied myself in the midst of
dreary winter.
A dense suburb lines both banks of the Pei-ho.
This suburb is fully five miles in length, and in a
mercantile point of view forms the most import-
ant part of Tien-tsin. The portion on the right
bank of the river contains all the best shops and
the principal mercantile establishments. About
half-way up the suburb a river falls into the Pei-ho,
which is said to be the upper end of the Grand
Canal, which was formerly navigable for boats all
the way from Tien-tsin to Hangchow-foo in the
province of Chekiang. This is here crossed by a
bridge of boats, made to open and shut in order to
allow boats to pass up and down, as well as foot
passengers to cross to either side. There are two
or three bridges of the same kind on the Pei-ho
near Tien-tsin.
The stranger on visiting Tien-tsin is struck with
the apparent meanness of its buildings, and cer-
tainly, if fine buildings are necessary to give it
importance, it has no claim to our attention. Poor-
looking houses, with mud walls, oftentimes in a
ruinous condition, are continually seen. But on a
nearer and closer inspection of the place, one finds
large warehouses stored with goods from all parts
of the world, and numerous indications of mercan-
tile wealth which are not visible at first sight.
Coolies, loaded with merchandise, crowd the nar-
row streets, and everything presents the appear-


Chap. XIX. SUBURBS OF TIEN-TSIN.
311
ance of a busy and thriving place such as is seen
only in extensive emporiums of trade. The river
and Grand Canal are lined with junks, cargo-boats,
and small craft of every description, all engaged in
active business. In short, many indications stamp
Tien-tsin as an important commercial station well
worth the attention of the merchants of foreign
countries.
The main street of the suburbs which extends
along the banks of the Pei-ho and Grand Canal is
a most curious and bustling place. Here are all
the best shops. All day long men are going along
this thoroughfare with huge wheelbarrows loaded
with all kinds of produce and merchandise. The
noise these fellows make is absolutely appalling;
they actually bawl at the passengers to get out of
their way, and every one makes way for them.
The loads which these men wheel along are gene-
rally very heavy, and the slightest obstruction or
contact is a very serious matter. This is under-
stood and universally acknowledged by the people,
and every one gets out of the way of the wheel-
barrows. Old curiosity shops for the sale of orna-
ments in jade-stone, rock crystal, porcelain, bronzes,
&c, are numerous and well stocked. Clay figures,
representing the people of the country, and illus-
trating all ranks, from the highest mandarin down
to the public executioner, are here met with, and
are remarkably well modelled. In the autumn
and winter skins and furs are plentiful; and as
there is a great demand for these owing to the


Ciup. XIX. LOVE OF GAMBLING. 313
plentiful and well-stocked. One dubbed " Fortnum
and Mason" was famous for all sorts of preserves,
dried fruits, cakes, and buns. Doctors' shops were
numerous, and one famous physician had a stand
in the street ornamented with a drawing repre-
senting the common diseases of the country which
he professed to cure. Street hawkers were numer-
ous, bawling out the names and prices of their
wares in tones which could scarcely be called
musical. Sellers of fruit—pears, apples, dates* (so
called), chesnuts, walnuts—and of cooked locusts,
&c, were met at every step of the way. The
natives, old and young, are most inveterate gam-
blers, and gamble for almost everything which they
wish to procure from the hawkers. The hawker
is invariably provided with a hollow bamboo tube
in which are placed a number of little sticks
marked at the lower end after the manner of dice.
He rattles them in the tube, and the customer,
having first put down his stake, draws out three
and carefully examines the marks on their lower
ends. If he is lucky he may get three or four
times the value of his stake, and he takes his choice
of the good things which are lotted and priced on
the vendor's table. Of course in China, as in other
countries, the table has the chance in its favour,
and so the hawker gets a living; but the propen-
sity to gamble is strong in the minds of the
Chinese, and they would rather lose their money
* This is the fruit of a Rhamnus, not a palm.


314
Chap. XIX.
CITY OF TIEN-TSIN.
than forego the excitement which attends the risk-
ing it.
The walled city of Tien-tsin is a very poor-look-
ing place. It has four gates, east, west, north, and
south, and is about a mile and a quarter in length
from east to west, and less than half a mile wide from
north to south. Its walls and ramparts are gene-
rally in a most ruinous condition. The streets are
usually paved, or rather they have been originally
paved, with large stone slabs, but these too are
now in bad condition. The pavement is broken
up in many places, and large holes are seen every-
where, which, in wet weather, get filled with
water. The shops are poor, and apparently con-
tain only the simple necessaries of life. As in
other Chinese cities, the high authorities live and
have their public offices within the walls of the
city, but the wealth, activity, and life of Tien-tsin
are all in its suburbs.
Chinese towns, as a rule, are not remarkable for
cleanliness; on the contrary, they are generally
famous for filth and foul smells. But in all my
travels in the Chinese empire, or elsewhere, I
never came upon a place so disgustingly dirty as
Tien-tsin. The pavement of many of the streets
is thickly covered with mud which seems to have
been accumulating for ages. This is well enough
in dry weather, but when it rains it is almost im-
possible to walk along the streets without getting
over the shoes in mud, and perchance tumbling
headlong into one of the holes already mentioned.


Chap. XIX. SURROUNDING COUNTRY.
315
Manure is apparently not appreciated here as it is
in the south, and the habits of the people are
filthy in the extreme. On the tops of the ram-
parts, on waste ground, and even in some of the
streets, the stench is almost intolerable.
It is difficult to account for this state of things.
Here we see a large and flourishing trade, great
wealth, good shops, and an active commercial
people, and yet their city is everywhere in a most
ruinous condition, and their streets are frequently
almost impassable. It is true that this place had
been taken by the Allied troops a short time
before, and it was then in the hands of the English
and French soldiers; but there were abundant
proofs that this state of dilapidation and filth had
existed long before the place had been occupied
by our troops. The cause of this state of things
may possibly be traced to the corruption of the
Government and its officers, who may have been in
the habit of embezzling the sums annually raised
from the people, or possibly of using the money
for other purposes.
The country around Tien-itsin is one vast plain
nearly as flat as a table, and at one period was
probably covered - by the ocean. Vast tracts of
land are even now perfectly barren, and salt,
which is shining amongst the soil, gives the
ground an appearance as if covered with hoar-
frost. On the south side of the city there is not
a vestige of cultivation, and the plain here formed
an excellent parade-ground for our troops. It also


316
Chap. XIX.
SALT-PLAIN.
served another pixrpose. A cemetery stands in
its centre, which already contains a goodly number
of our brave soldiers, who found the climate a
much more formidable enemy than the Chinese.
Beyond these barren lines the country gradually
becomes more fertile, and yields fair crops of the
gigantic millet—the Kow-leang of the Chinese—
which I had already seen at Chefoo. It is curious
to notice barren spots in the midst of the more
fertile ones, and to observe the white salt covering
the soil, telling too surely that the land is " sowed
with salt."
In this plain trees are few and far between.
Willows occur here and there, with Sophora japo-
nica, Diospyros Kaki, stunted examples of Rham-
nus zizyphus, and a few others, generally about
gardens, which I may notice afterwards. In
winter, when these few trees have lost their leaves,
and when the tall millet has been gathered, this
plain must have a very dreary appearance indeed.
The wild plants met with in the barren parts of
the plain were such as Salsola, Statice, Tamarix,
Asclepias, Chenopodium, Malva, &c, plants which
flourish in a salt soil.
As soon as our troops had compelled the Chinese
Government to act up to the letter and spirit of its
treaty with Lord Elgin, almost all the .great foreign
mercantile houses in China sent representatives,
and opened branch establishments at Tien-tsin. I
found an old friend, Mr. Hanssen, representing
Messrs. Dent and Co., who kindly offered me


Chap. XIX. NURSERY-GARDENS.
317
quarters in his house during my stay in the place.
As my principal object in visiting this part of
China was to obtain new plants for introduction to
Europe, I lost no time in making the usual in-
quiries regarding the nursery gardens. Mr. Wild,
a neighbour of Mr. Hanssen, who had resided for
some time in Tien-tsin, was good enough to tell
me of an extensive nursery on the banks of the
Grand Canal in the western suburbs, and offered
to accompany me to it. I gladly availed myself
of his offer, and we set out one afternoon to
examine it. As I was now several degrees further
north than I had ever been before in China, and
as the climate was very different from that of the
districts I had formerly explored, I was in great
hopes of finding many trees and shrubs entirely
new, and looked forward to my visit to this garden
with much interest. On reaching it I observed
large quantities of plants cultivated in pots, but,
curious enough, they were nearly all southern
species, such as I had formerly met with in the
gardens of Canton and Foo-chow. The Mole-hwa
{Jasminum sambac) seemed to be the greatest
favourite; hundreds of this plant were arranged
in rows, and raised a little from the ground by
being placed on empty flower-pots. Oka fragrans,
pomegranates, oranges, limes, and such well-
known things, were numerous and well cultivated.
The only representatives of a cold climate, such
as that from Shangae northward, were Jasminum


Chap. XIX.
321
FRUIT.
of these gardens. Some of them are trained as
"standards," and somewhat resemble in form our
dwarf standard rose-trees. In order that they
may assume this appearance, they are grafted on
the stout stems of a species of Artemesia or worm-
wood. They grow with great vigour on this
stock, and appear rather curious objects to those
who have seen them only on their own stems.
The Chinese are extremely fond of grafting plants,
and of having several species or varieties growing
on one tree. In one of these gardens I observed
two species of Thuja and one Juniper, all growing
together on one stem.
Apples, pears, and Siberian crabs are cultivated
in pots in these gardens, and, apparently, with
great success, for the little trees were all loaded
with fruit. The Chinese have, probably, been
doing this for ages past, just as they have been
growing roses in pots, dwarf and- covered with
bloom, while we have only found out very
recently that such things could be done. The
Tien-tsin apples are very beautiful to look upon—
the skin is thin and transparent, and the colour a
delicate pink red, but the taste is sweet, without
flavour, and almost insipid.
Grapes also are plentiful, and may be had in
perfection all the year round. There are a
number of large ice-houses in the town, where
whole cargoes of apples, pears, and grapes are
packed away in round tubs, and taken out as they
are required. The floors of these fruit ice-houses
Y


322
Chap. XIX.
VINKYARDS.
are considerably below the level of the stirround-
ing ground. When I visited one of them, in
company with Dr. Gordon, we were rather
puzzled at first in our endeavours to find out the
manner in which the ice-water was carried off.
On our eyes becoming accustomed to the darkness
of the huge building, we groped our way towards
one of the corners pointed out to us by the pro-
prietor, and found a deep well which received the
drainage from the floor. The tubs of fruit are
packed one above another, and the spaces between
them are filled in with ice; they are also covered
over with the same material. In this way fruit
of all kinds can be kept perfectly sound from one
year to another.
The vineyards, where the greater part of the
grapes brought to Tien-tsin are produced, are
situated on the left bank of the Grand Canal,
about three miles from the city. Having seen the
mode of preserving the grapes, we set out one day
to see the vineyards. Crossing the bridge of boats
already noticed, we rode through an extensive
suburb, and then reached the open country. In
this part the land, being comparatively fertile, is
all under cultivation. Large fields of cabbages,
onions, and garlic were passed, indicating the
vicinity of a populous town. Here and there thin
patches of millet and oily grain were observed as
we went along.
Some distance beyond the suburbs of the town
we came to a line of fortifications known as San-


Chap. XIX.
323
VINEYARDS.
go-lin-tsin's wall and ditch, an immense earth-
work which encircles the city and suburbs of
Tien-tsin. This work was intended by the Cbinese
commander to defend the place against the attacks
of the Allied force, on its march through the
country en route to Peking. It occupied two years
in construction, and was of no use after all, as
every one knows who is conversant with the
movements of the French and English troops
during the late war. It is now best known to
foreigners as " San-go-lin-tsin's Folly."
Passing through an opening in this earthwork,
we observed the vineyards we had come to visit a
short distance ahead of us, and were soon in the
midst of them. Narrow lanes, bounded on each
side by fences, intersected the ground, and divided
the different vineyards from each other. Inside
of the fences the vines were trained on flat wooden
trellis-work, about ten feet from the ground, and
looked like so many bowers or arbours. At this
season (Sept. 9th) the grapes were ripening,
and the crop appeared to be a most abundant one.
It did not strike me that the natives were good
cultivators. The stems of the vines were too
crowded and rambling, and, apparently, but little
care was expended on their training. Yet the
pretty lanes, the green trellises, and the hanging
bunches of grapes, had a pleasing appearance, and
well rewarded us for the trouble we had taken to
visit the place. These vineyards covered a large
tract of land in this part of the country, and
Y 2


Chap. XIX.
325
WINTER IN TIEN-TSIN.
of this I may instance Canton, Shanghae, and
Soo-chow, and I have no doubt, when Tien-tsin is
better known, we may add it to the list. The
existence of this demand for the luxuries of life
augurs well, therefore, for the future of this port
as a great emporium for foreign trade.
On the approach of winter a wonderful change
comes over these little gardens. Plants, flower-
pots, and every green thing disappear as if by
the stroke of some magician's wand, and the places
which all summer long had been gay with flowers,
then look like a desert waste. All the plants
have been huddled together in the houses erected
for their protection, and there they must remain
until the severity of the winter has passed by.
The vineyards I have described also disappear
from the scene. The stems of the vines are taken
down from the trellis-work, and buried in the earth
at a depth sufficient to protect them from the
frost. Here they remain in safety during the
winter, and are disinterred in spring. The Tien-
tsin plain, too, at this season is probably one of
the most dreary-looking places on which the sun
shines. As far as the eye can reach not a green
bush or tree is visible in the horizon; all is cold
and cheerless; and one is apt to fancy that at last
he has reached " the ends of the earth."


320
Chap. XX.
THE PEOPLE OF TIEN-TSIN.
CHAPTER XX. -
The people of Tien-tsin — Visit to a gentleman's house — Reception —
Street beggars — Begging musicians — Civil hospital established
by the English — Dr. Lamprey's report — Chinese poorhouse —
Fat beggars — Climate and temperature — Dust-storms — Remark-
able size of natural productions — Large men and horses — Shantung
fowls — Gigantic millet, oily grain, and egg-apples — Jute —
Vegetables in cultivation — Imperial granaries — Use of millet and
jute stems — Foreign trade — New settlement for foreign merchants
— The future of Tien-tsin as a centre of trade.
The people in Tien-tsin and in the country around
it are quiet and inoffensive, and particularly civil
and polite to foreigners. Our late intercourse with
them has been very different from that of former
days, when the dispute was about the performance
of the ko-tou to the Emperor, and when we were
only represented by an ambassador and his
attendants. This time we had visited them with
an army; we had driven the "Son of Heaven"
himself into Tartary, and had sacked and burned
his summer palace. Having received a good flog-
ging, these children had now become very good
boys; and if they did not love us, which we could
scarcely expect, we were' certainly feared and
respected. But up to the present time they have
not the same confidence in us as their countrymen


Chap. XX. VISIT TO A GENTLEMAN'S HOUSE. 327
in the more southern towns, with whom we have
been longer associated. The women run into
their houses and shut their doors on the approach
of a foreigner, and the people generally are averse
to our entering their dwellings.
One day I observed, not far from the north gate
of the city, some high trees enclosed by a wall,
and, as the place looked somewhat like a garden, I
felt anxious to enter and examine it. When the
inmates saw me approaching, an alarm was
instantly given, and the door, which had been
standing wide open, was unceremoniously shut in
my face. Nothing daunted by this proceeding, I
mildly remonstrated with those who stood behind
it, telling them they had nothing to fear from me;
that I was, like themselves, fond of flowers, and
begged permission to examine the garden. After
some consultation amongst them, the door was
opened, and ten or twelve of the male portion of
the establishment presented themselves. I sup-
pose I did not look as if I would do anything
wrong, so, after a little parleying, they consented
to admit me. A message was sent in to warn the
ladies to get out of the way and hide themselves,
an order, by the bye, which was not obeyed very
strictly, and I was then led into the courts of the
mansion. Here I found some pretty rockwork
and ponds, with a few flowering shrubs and trees
arranged and grouped according to Chinese taste,
and all very pretty and enjoyable. Having had
much experience of Chinese manners and polite-


328
Chap. XX.
STREET BEGGAKS.
ness, I soon got into the good graces of the
gentlemen by whom I was accompanied; and, as
we discussed the merits of the different plants, the
fears which had taken possession of their minds at
first entirely disappeared. My knowledge of the
Chinese names of the different shrubs and trees,
which a long residence in the country had enabled
me to acquire, was most useful here, as it had often
been in other places. And as we talked of the
beauties of the "Mo-le-hwa," the "Cha-hwa," or
the " Tu-hwa," * I evidently rose many degrees in
their estimation, and was looked upon as a being
not so very barbarous after all. After drinking
sundry cups of tea, and getting the names of other
places where plants were cultivated, I expressed
my thanks and took my leave.
The beggars of Tien-tsin are rather prominent
objects. Here, as in the southern towns, they
appear to have a kind of organization, having a
chief, or "king of the beggars," who rules over
them and directs their proceedings. They are
most tyrannical in their conduct towards the more
respectable inhabitants of the town, particularly
the shopkeepers, whose business obliges them to
have their doors always open. These beggars will
assemble in companies, take possession of the
door, beat the counter with stones, sticks, or what-
ever they may have in their hands, and howl for
alms. It is an amusing sight to see the poor
* Jasmine, camellia, chrysanthemum.


Chai\ XX. STREET UEGGARS. 329
shopkeepers, during an attack of this kind, sitting
calm and quiet, and pretending not to see or hear
what is going on.

Sturdy Beggars.—From a Photograph.
In Tien-tsin, as in other parts of the Chinese
empire, the beggars divide themselves into three
or four very distinct classes. There is, first, the
able-bodied, without any apparent physical deform-
ity, who could work if they liked, but who prefer
to gain a livelihood by begging. These have a
proverb which says, "The finest rice has not
charms equal to a roving liberty."
Many of these appear to be very low in the scale
of humanity, very cunning, weak-minded, or almost


Chap. XX.
331
ENGLISH HOSPITAL.
The latter are generally better dressed and have
a cleaner appearance than the other classes of
mendicants.
The "widow and her fatherless children" is
not an uncommon group, and is often met with
at the corners of streets "begging for alms."
As in other countries nearer home, the parentage
of the youthful members of the family is not
quite as certain as the mother would have us
believe.
The above groups were photographed by
Dr. Lamprey, of the 67th Regiment, who had
charge of an hospital for the poor of Tien-tsin,
established and supported by the British Army of
Occupation. All honour to the British army!
this was a noble example to set before the natives
of a heathen land. The hospital was evidently
appreciated by the Chinese, and did a great
amount of good. Dr. Lamprey, in a printed
report which he was good enough to give me,
tells some amusing stories of these Tien-tsin beg-
gars. "A beggar presented himself at the
hospital, with his arm in a bent position, and
drawn up to his head through the contraction of a
cicatrix, caused by a burn he had received when a
child. A very simple operation would have
sufficed to release the limb, and give him as good
use of it as he needed to enable him to work, but
he would not submit to it; it was not the pain of
the operation he feared, but it was that he should
lose so good a sympathy exciter! In short, to be


332
Chap. XX.
CHINESE POORHOUSE.
cured of this deformity would have been utter ruin
to the man." On expressing some anxiety as to
the future of a poor lad who had had his thigh
amputated, and asking a Chinese " What was the
best thing for him to do to get his living?" he
replied, "That the lad could not be a pedler or
keep a tradesman's shop, as he could neither read
nor write; but, oh! he is all right, lie can make a
very good beggar-man," alluding to the absence
of his leg as a good exciter of charity. Dr. Lam-
prey adds his testimony to that of others regard-
ing the coolness and patience with which the
Chinese submit to severe surgical operations.
When it is necessary to amputate an arm or a leg
the patient would say, "Good, cut it off; but
give me the medicine to smell "—meaning chlo-
roform.
How these beggars can live through a Tien-tsin
winter it is difficult to imagine. The authorities
have a kind of poorhouse, where five hundred
human beings were located during the winter of
1860-61. Each inmate is allowed a small quantity
of the commonest kind of grain daily, but he is
obliged to provide his own fuel, which he begs,
steals, or picks up in some way or other; he is
not particular so that he gets it. No doubt the
severity of the winter carries off many of these
poor wretches to their long homes; indeed, their
bodies are frequently seen on the road-sides and
in the streets, lying where they died. Dr. Lam-
prey remarks, however, that their powers of


Chap. XX.
333
CLIMATE.
endurance, notwithstanding the low temperature
of the climate and of the poorhouse, are rather
remarkable. During the coldest days of winter,
many were seen in the streets in a state of nudity,
excepting a small rag round their loins. Such
beggars were noticed to be remarkably fat; and
it was supposed by some that this was owing to
the quantity of carbonic acid gas inhaled in their
close, ill-ventilated sleeping-places. Others rather
attributed it to a provision of nature, which corre-
sponded with what was observed in birds and
other animals at this time of the year.
The climate of this part of China is very cold
in winter and warm in summer. It is subject to
those excesses of cold and heat which are expe-
rienced on the eastern side of large continents,—
a fact noticed long ago by the immortal Hum-
boldt. The following table, for which I am
indebted to Dr. Lamprey, gives the maximum and
minimum as shown by a registering thermometer
during twelve months :—
Thermometer (Fahr.).
18CI.
January
February .
March .
April .
May
June .
July . .
August
September
October
November.
December
Maximum.
Minimum.
38
-0-8
46
-1-5
68
18
87
35
94
41
107
53
108
61
100
60-5
92
40
77
42
uo
^7-5
50
3


334
Chap. XX.
CLIMATE.
From this table, February appears to be the
coldest month in the year. The thermometer in
this month registered one degree and a half below
zero, or upwards of 33 degrees of frost. January
appears to be nearly as cold, and the lowest, in
December, was only three degrees above zero.
In places less sheltered, and away from buildings,
a thermometer stood four or five degrees lower
than it did in Tien-tsin, where the above obser-
vations were made. But the cold as indicated by
the thermometer does not give an idea of that
which is actually felt by those who are exposed to
that cutting and piercing wind which sweeps
along the dreary level plain.
The rivers and canals are usually frozen over
by the end of November, and continue in this
state until the middle of March. In 1861 the ice
began to move on the the 12th of March, and in
the short space of three days it had entirely disap-
peared. This is remarkable, when we remember
that it is usually sixteen inches in thickness.
June, July, and August are the hottest months
in the year. The highest point (108°) was regis-
tered in July. This heat, with the sun's rays
streaming through an atmosphere which is gene-
rally clear and cloudless, was found to be very
trying to the constitutions of our soldiers and the
foreign residents who had settled down in Tien-
tsin. During the months of April and May hot
winds are not unfrequent. In the southern pro-
vinces of China the heat of summer is often


Chap. XX.
335
DUST-STORMS.
tempered by the rains which fall copiously at that
season, particularly in May and June, and some-
times as late as July. Judging from our expe-
rience in 1861, the rainy season does not extend
so far north as Tien-tsin. That the difference
is most marked will be seen by the following
table, in which Macao and Tien-tsin are com-
pared :—
Average fall of rain In Inches Average fall of rain in inches
in Macao. in Tien tsin.
May . . 11-850 May . . 2-585
Juno . . 11100 Juno . . 1-795
July . . 7 750 July . . 1-035
August . 9-900 August . 6 75
September 10-925 September 2-52
It is just possible that the year 1801 may have
been one of unusual dryness, and that future
observations may record a larger fall of rain
during the months just quoted.
Dust-storms of a very remarkable character
frequently occur in this part of China. They
come on suddenly, and a thick darkness covers the
land for many hours together. On the 26th of
March in the present year (1862) one of a very
extraordinary kind was experienced, which is
thus described in the 'North China Herald' by
Dr. Lamprey :—
"During the greater portion of the day the
wind was blowing from the south in rather strong
gusts, almost approaching to a gale. At 3h. 15m.
p.m. the wind suddenly shifted to N.N.W. in a
strange manner, when all at once the air was
filled with dust, and the sun and light became


336
Chap. XX.
DUST-STORMS.
obscured as if a total eclipse had suddenly oc-
curred. The wind blowing a hurricane, the dark-
ness had something appalling in it, it was so
sudden and so unusual. It was noticed that the
darkness would lighten somewhat, at intervals of
a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, as if about
to abate, when it would suddenly increase again,
along with a slight change of wind to the N.N.E.
The wind, endeavouring to become more north-
erly, would suddenly turn again to this point, and
bring along with it an increase of the dust. This
state continued till about midnight, when there
was a slight calm, which lasted until about eight
o'clock the following morning.
"On the occurrence of this dust-storm there
was a rapid fall of the thermometer, and during
the night a hard frost set in. At the place where
I made these observations—about thirty miles
N.W. of Tien-tsin—I noticed a poor man of seventy
years of age in a very excited state, crying out
'What day is this?' and ' low-le,' the words corre-
sponding to 'Oh, Providence.' He would give
me little or no information on the subject; but
from others I learned that such heavy storms had
occurred before; and on my return to Tien-tsin
I ascertained that one happened thirty-six years
ago which lasted a fortnight, and that the light
during that time was somewhat like the dusk of
evening. I also learned that the Chinese desig-
nated this storm as a red one—their classification
being as follows: white, yellow, red, and black;


Chap. XX.
337
DUST-STORMS.
depending on the amount of light, or, more pro-
perly speaking, the amount of dust in the atmo-
sphere at the time. The quantity of dust that
covered one's person was astonishing, and the
clothes, &c, inside the coat were thickly covered
with it. On drawing a feather through the
fingers it became strongly electrified.
"When I returned to Tien-tsin I learned that
the dust-storm occurred there about the same time
we experienced it thirty miles N.W., and that the
electric conductor showed an extraordinary -quan-
tity of electricity—a large blue flame poured out
of the end of the conductor without intermission.
There being little or no light, this showed a beau-
tiful appearance, while the sound of it was quite
audible at some distance off, and the shock felt on
touching the conductor was powerful. The quan-
tity of dust that entered the house was very great.
There was a recurrence of the dust-storm on the
27th, but not approaching in strength to the one
on the 26th. It was also ascertained that it
occurred at Peking, and at Taku, where the fury
of the storm was greatest. Several country boats
were wrecked in the river Peiho. Repeated obser-
vations have enabled me to come to the conclusion
that these dust-storms are owing to the electric
condition of the atmosphere."
The natural productions of these northern pro-
vinces, both in the animal and vegetable kingdoms,
are, in many instances, remarkable for their great
size. In former days the merchants who came
z


338
NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. Chap. XX.
down from Shantung to Shanghae astonished the
natives of the latter place, and were greater objects
of attraction than even the foreign residents.
These Shantung merchants were large men, much
'above the average size of Chinamen, and, as they
took an airing in the evenings on the ramparts of
Shanghae, they were followed by crowds of ad-
miring natives. Peking horses, which happened
to come down at that time, were also much larger
than the southern kinds. The well-known Cochin
China fowls, some of which are nearly as large as
turkeys, are also originally from the province of
Shantung.
During the late war the size of the common
grain in the fields about Tien-tsin and Peking
astonished our soldiers, and the high, thick stubble
formed a serious impediment to the marching of
our cavalry. This is the millet already noticed,
which grows to a height of fifteen feet and up-
wards. It covers the plains of this part of China,
being the staple summer crop, and ripening about
the middle of September. Oily grain (Sesamum
orientate) is also extensively grown on the plain of
Tien-tsin, from the Gulf of Pechele to the moun-
tains beyond Peking, and is fully twice as large
and productive as that grown in the south.
Amongst plants cultivated for the sake of their
fibre, the Jute (Corchonis sp.) is the most impor-
tant. This, too, grows to a great height.
Amongst green crops I noticed Brinjals,
Gourds, Cucumbers, Vegetable Marrows, Yams,


ChAr. XX.
339
IMPERIAL GRANARIES.
various kinds of Cabbages, Onions, Carrots, Turnips,
French Beans, Capsicums, Ginger, and common
and sweet Potatoes. Amongst these, the Gourds
and the Egg-apples, or Brinjals, grew to a very
large size,—some of the latter measuring eighteen
inches in circumference! The Sunflower was
also a giant here, and attained a height of fourteen
feet.
The greater part of the rice used in these dis-
tricts is brought up in junks from the south. Large
Imperial granaries have been built in different
parts of the country, where the rice is laid up in
store. I visited one of these at a place named
Pae-tsang, situated on the left bank of the Pei-ho,
some six miles from Tien-tsin. It consisted of six-
teen large buildings or barns, each fifty feet wide,
three hundred feet in length, and about forty or
fifty feet high. At the upper end I observed a
small temple, which contained a figure of Tsang-
shin, the god who is supposed to protect the
granaries. At the time of my visit the barns were
all empty, and their doors were nailed up. In
these troubled times the grain-junks could not pass
through the country. At Peking I afterwards saw
a number of Imperial granaries built upon the
same plan, and presenting the same appearance.
It has been already observed that there are few
trees in the Tien-tsin plain. Fuel from this
source is therefore almost unknown; but bountiful
nature here steps in and supplies the want from
another source. The tall stout stems of the millet,
z 2


340
Chap. XX.
FOREIGN TRADE.
and those of the jute-plant, from which the bark
has been removed for its fibre, are saved and
stacked up for this purpose, and thus take the
place of branches of trees and brushwood. In
other parts of China, where trees are plentiful,
millet of this kind, and jute, are not met with.
Foreign merchants and traders at Tien-tsin have
as yet met with few articles for export, except the
precious metals. Here there is no silk or tea—
articles which form the most valuable of our ex-
ports from the ports of the south. Peas and beans
are sent to the south in large quantities, but chiefly
from Shantung, on the southern shores of the Gulf
of Pe-chele, and Newchwang in the north—the
latter being the most northerly of the trading
ports. It is to be hoped that, as we get better
acquainted with the trade of Tien-tsin, some valu-
able articles for export may present themselves to
the notice of foreign merchants, for at present
their ships have generally to go away in ballast.
The import trade at this port is already one of
considerable importance, but is confined chiefly
to our cotton goods and opium. As the winters
are cold, we may expect a demand, in the course of
time, for our woollen manufactures, and doubtless
for other articles of European and American com-
fort and luxury; and it is very likely that foreign
merchants will take the coasting trade out of the
hands of the junkmen, and bring up the supplies
of medicine, dyes, and other articles of Straits pro-
duce formerly carried in the junks from Canton,


342
Chap. XX.
FUTURE OF TIEN-TSIN
It was curious to remark the effect of all this upon
the Chinese labourers, who had probably been all
their lives located upon the spot. They evidently
could not realize the idea that they were really to
move off to other quarters. In many instances I
observed them busily engaged in putting in fresh
crops for the following year! They could not
comprehend the justice or propriety of being
turned out of their houses and lands for the
benefit of the public, and that public the foreigner!
As the purchase-money had been paid into the
hands of the Chinese Government, it had doubtless
to submit to a "squeeze" before it reached the
pockets of the owners of the land.
In drawing to a close my remarks upon the port
of Tien-tsin and the country around it, I may state
my belief that ultimately this place will prove of
great importance as a mart for our manufactures.
Next to the opening of the Yang-tze-kiang, it will
probably prove the most valuable concession ob-
tained from the Chinese in Lord Elgin's treaty.
When the rebellion, which has been raging for
years in this unhappy country, has either died out
or has been put down, the rivers and canals will
once more swarm with boats engaged in active
trade. The Grand Canal, which leads through some
of the richest and most populous districts of the
empire, and which is now choked up in many places
with mud, or rendered unsafe by bands of rebels
and robbers, will then become the busy highway it
once was, and foreigners as well as natives will be


Chap. XX. AS A CENTRE OF TRADE. 343
allowed to visit the numerous cities and towns
which line its banks. The river which leads from
Tien-tsin to Pow-ting-foo, one of the chief towns
of the province, will take a large quantity of our
manufactures, and the caravans which come to
that place will convey them all over the western
interior. In addition to all this there is the capital
itself, teeming with its many thousands of human
beings, all requiring food and clothing, and carry-
ing on an extensive trade with Western China and
Tartary by means of camels, droves of which are
daily arriving and departing from the city.
Taking all these facts together, we may venture
to look forward to Tien-tsin becoming, at no very
distant time, a most important mart for our manu-
factures. Already English houses begin to rise
on the new settlement, and ere the world grows
many years older a handsome foreign town will be
seen on the land which was lately covered with
cabbage-gardens, mud huts, and tombs. The Rev.
Mr. Edkins and other Christian missionaries have
also entered this field; and by their knowledge of
the Chinese language, their inoffensive manners,
and their blameless lives, do much to remove many
prejudices which exist in the minds of the people'
against those who have come to reside amongst
them.


344
Ciiap. XXI.
FORM OF PASSPORT.
CHAPTER XXI.
Leave Tien-tsin for Peking — My passport — Mode of travelling —
Carts and wretched roads — Hotel at Tsai-tsoun — Towns of
Hoose-woo, Nan-ping, and Matao — Hotel at Chan-chow-wan —
Poor accommodation — Moderate charges — Appearance of the
country — Crops and cultivation — Mountains in the distance —
Walls and ramparts of Peking — Foreign embassies — English
Legation - Medical missions — Chinese observatory — Views from
it — Tartar and Chinese cities.
Having received permission to visit Peking from
his Excellency the Hon. F. W. A. Bruce, Her
Majesty's Minister at the Chinese Court, I left
Tien-tsin for that place on the 17th of September.
A passport, written in Chinese and English, and
signed by Her Majesty's Consul, was necessary
before I could set out on this journey. As the
passport system in China is something new, here
is the English portion of the one with which I
was furnished:—
Passport No. 53.
British Consulate, 16th Sept. 1861.
The undersigned, Her Britannic Majesty's Consul at
Tien-tsin, requests the Civil and Military Authorities of the
Emperor of China, in conformity with the ninth article of the
Treaty of Tien-tsin, to allow , a British subject,
to travel freely, and without hindrance or molestation, in the
Chinese Empire, and to give him protection and aid in case ol
necessity.


Chap. XXI.
845
MODE OF TRAVELLING.
Mr. being a person of known respectability,
is desirous of proceeding to , and this passport is
given him on condition of his not visiting the cities or towns
occupied by the Insurgents.
H. B. M.'s Consul.
This passport will remain in force for a year from the date thereof.
Signature of the bearer:
This passport was countersigned by the Chinese
authority of the place.
There are two modes of travelling from Tien-
tsin to the capital—by boat up the Pei-ho as far as
Tong-chow, and then on by land, or by cart on
the common highway. In going up I chose the
latter, in order to save time, and also to enable me
to see more of the country and its productions.
The carts used by travellers are strongly made,
and covered over so as to afford protection from
sun and rain. They look in the distance like little
oblong boxes on wheels, and are generally drawn
by two mules.
The Peking road starts from the north gate of
the city of Tien-tsin, crosses the Grand Canal by a
bridge of boats, and enters a dense suburb which
extends across towards the Pei-ho. My troubles
now began. The road was one of the worst I had
ever travelled upon. It was full of deep holes at
every step of our way; now one of my wheels
plunged into one of these up to the axle, and
it was scarcely up when down went the other.
Although I had before starting packed my cart
carefully with bedding and pillows, I was every


348
Chap. XXI.
INN AT TSAI-TSOUN.
prevented the arrival of the usual supplies from
the south. However, I obtained a mutton chop,
hard-boiled eggs, and soft bread made of millet,
and with these I made up a dinner. Animal food
appears to be consumed by these northern Chinese
to a far greater extent than by their countrymen
in the south. Butchers' shops are met with in all
the towns, and both beef and mutton can be had
anywhere. This is probably owing to the cir-
cumstance that a large number of the people
are Mahomedans, whose prejudices, as regards
the use of animal food, are not like those of the
Buddhists.
Nearly shaken to pieces, and thoroughly tired
with the day's journey, I retired early to rest.
The bed-place in these inns is a raised mud plat-
form erected at one end of the room, beneath
which there is a chamber which can be heated
during the winter months when the weather is
cold. A mat is spread out on the top of this.plat-
form, and this is all that is furnished by the inn-
keeper; the traveller in China always carries his
own bedding with him. As the Chinese are early
in their habits—going early to bed, and rising
early in the morning—the inn was soon perfectly
quiet, and nothing disturbed our slumbers, except
perhaps the occasional bark of a dog or the neigh-
ing of a horse in the courtyard.
At daylight next morning we resumed our
journey. The country through which we passed
was still flat, but rather better wooded than what


Chap. XXI.
351
ENGLISn LEGATION.
visible, and shortly afterwards my cart rattled
through the gate of the Chinese city, and I found
myself for the first time in the capital of China.
As I approached the gate one of the guard rushed
out to inquire who I was and whence I came.
When my servant informed him that I was an
Englishman, and that I was on my way to Her
Majesty's Legation, he appeared perfectly satisfied,
and did not even ask me for my passport.
The paved streets through which we now passed
were in a most dilapidated condition, and the
jolting of my cart was so great that I was glad to
get out and walk. After we had gone about a
mile in a northerly direction we came to the wall
which divides the Chinese city from the Tartar
one, and entered the latter through a huge and
massive gateway, crowned with a guard-house
loopholed for guns, many of which are said
to be wooden ones and only for show! On
my arrival at the residence of the English Ambas-
sador, I was kindly received by His Excellency
Mr. Bruce.
The British, French, and Russian Legations are
located in the Tartar city, near the south wall,
and close to the palace of the Emperor. The
residence of the English Minister is a most
gorgeous place. It belongs or belonged at one
time to a Duke Leang, and is called Leang-kung-
foo, or the Palace of Leang. It covers many
acres of land, and consists of a series of large and
lofty halls, four or five in number, rising one behind


354
VIEWS FROM THE OBSERVATORY. Chap. XXI.
north the Tartar city lay spread out before us,
having the Imperial city and its palaces, with
their yellow-tiled roofs, in its centre. King-shan,
a charming little hill, called by foreigners " Pros-
pect Hill," with its temples and summer-houses,
presented a very pretty object. This hill is said
to be artificial, and formed almost entirely of coal,
which had been stored up to be used in case of a
siege. As we looked over the immense city we
observed that, as in other Chinese towns, the
houses were all about one uniform height, and
the whole place was green with trees. The tree
most common here is the Sophora japoniea already
named as one which grows on the plain of Tien-
tsin. We could trace the walls and ramparts on
all sides of the city, and discern the different gates,
marked as they were by the huge guard-houses
erected over each of them. Far away to the west-
ward appeared some pagodas and minarets; and
in the Chinese city, to the south, we could see the
tower of the temple sacred to the God of Agri-
culture, to which the Emperor is said to repair
once in every year to worship and to hold the
plough.
The Tartar city has nine gates, is oblong in
form, and is about three miles from east to west
and four miles from north to south. The Imperial
city, situated inside the Tartar city, is of a square
or rather oblong form, and encloses the palaces
and gardens of the Emperor, and the pretty little
"Prospect Hill" already noticed. It is situated


Chap. XXI. VIEWS FROM THE OBSERVATORY.
355
in the centre of the Tartar city, and is about one-
third of its width from east to west, and one-half
of its length from north to south. Here reside
the Emperor and the ladies of the court; the
eunuchs in waiting, who amounted in Father
Ripa's time to six thousand; and the family of the
Emperor, some of whom have, when of age,
separate establishments. This is the only part
of Peking which foreigners are not allowed to
visit.
The Chinese city is situated on the south side
of the Tartar one. It is of a different form, being
broader from east to west than from north to south.
From the east to the west wall the distance is about
four miles, while from the north to the south it is
only about two miles, or perhaps rather less. It
has seven gates, in addition to three which lead
through the wall dividing it from the Tartar city,
so that, taking the two cities together, the number
of gates is sixteen in all.
We lingered long on the top of the Observatory,
and certainly the view we had was no common
one, and was well worth coming a long way to
enjoy. This view was bounded on the west and
north by a range of mountains of considerable
height, while on the south and east lay the vast
plain through which I had been travelling for
three days, and in which, as far as the eye could
reach, there was no sign of either mountain or
hill—like the ocean, it stretched far away to the
distant horizon.
2 A 2


360
Chap. XXII.
PEKING.
imitation of vases, and behind them, on a raised
platform, a stone cross completes the arrangement.
The high state of preservation in which these
tombstones are at the present day is very remark-
able. Many of them, from the dates carved on
them, must have been placed there more than two
centuries and a half ago, and they show no signs
of decay. I noted that of the well-known Father
Ricci, with "P. Matthew Ilicci, A.D. 1610," carved
upon it. The tomb of the celebrated P. Fernandez
Yerries, who taught the Chinese the art of casting
cannon, is also here. Some of these marble stones
rest upon the back of a tortoise carved in the same
material. This form of stone denotes that it was
a gift from the Emperor of the time, who took this
mode of showing his esteem for the deceased and
his desire to honour his memory.
Pines, junipers, and other trees grow all over the
cemetery, and throw a pleasing shade over the last
resting-places of the ancient fathers. The Chinese
seem to have charged themselves with the duty of
keeping the place in order, and they have per-
formed it well. When we left the cemetery we
rode southwards along the side of the western wall
until we came to the Chinese city. There was no-
thing in tine part to attract our attention except
the high walls and ramparts of the city and plea-
sant gardens in the suburbs. In our way from
this point to the English Legation we passed the
Roman Catholic cathedral, in which there are some
foreign priests, who dress in the costume of the


Chap. XXII. THE CHINESE CITY. 361
-
country, and are, no doubt, worthy successors of
old Father Ripa.
My next excursion was through the Chinese city
to some gardens which I had been informed were
to be found in its southern suburbs. I passed out
of the Tartar city by the Ching-wang-mun, the
centre gate of its south wall. Inside and outside
of this gate I observed carts in great numbers
waiting to be hired, just as we see the cabs in
London. Like them, the carts of Peking have
their stands in the public thoroughfare. The noise
and bustle ahout this gate was perfectly deafening.
Carts were going to and fro, rumbling along on
the rough stone road, and now and then sinking
deeply into the broken pavement. Donkeys,
horses, and long trains of camels laden with the
productions of the country, were toiling along; a
perfect Babel of noisy tongues was heard in all
directions; and the dust was flying in clouds and
literally filling the air. Stalls of fruit, hawkers of
all kinds of wares, beggars ragged, filthy, and in
many instances apparently insane, crowded the
approaches to this gate.
When I had passed through I entered a straight
and wide street which led through the centre of
the Chinese city from north to south. The north-
ern portion appeared to be densely populated.
Each side of the main street was lined with shops
and stalls, and a much more active trade was
carried on here than in the Tartar city. The shop-
fronts in Peking are rather striking, and differ in


362
Chap. XXII.
PEKING.
style from those observed in the more southern cities.
Three or four long poles divide the front of the
shop into equal parts. At a convenient height from
the ground a signboard fills up the space between
the poles, and has large letters upon it giving the
name and calling of the owner. The tops of the
poles are much higher than the roof of the shop,
and each is surmounted or crowned by an orna-
mental carving.
As the fronts of these shops are moveable and
always taken out during the day-time, their con-
tents are fully exposed to the public. Articles of
food and clothing, and all the common necessaries
of life, are the principal wares which are dealt in
by the Peking shopkeepers in the main streets of
the city. Here there are no silk and tea for expor-
tation such as one sees in the south, and every-
thing stamps Peking as a consuming city rather
than a producing one. Silk and cotton clothing,
old clothes, skins, furs, and padded bed-covers to
protect the wearer from the cold of a Peking
winter, together with hats and shoes, are all plen-
tiful. Substances used as food, such as pork, salt
fish, beef and mutton, ducks and fowls, beans, peas,
rice, various kinds of millet and other grains, are
met with in all the market-places, as also oils of
various kinds, dried fruits, and dyes. Vegetables
and fruits are abundant, and are generally exposed
for sale on open stalls lining each side of the
street. At the time of my visit the large white
Shantung cabbage, which is yearly sent to the


Chap. XXII.
363
SHOPS.
south in junks, was very plentiful in Peking. I
observed also a large white carrot, and the red
turnip-radish, which is sent south every winter
and made to flower in pots or flat saucers amongst
pebbles and water at the time of the Chinese new
year. Grapes and peaches were plentiful and fair
in quality, but I did not meet with the latter weigh-
ing two pounds each, as they are stated to do in
the works of earlier travellers. Pears are perhaps
the most abundant amongst all the autumnal fruits
in Peking. They are exposed for sale in every
direction, in shops, in stalls, on the pavement, as
well as in the basket of the hawker. There were
two or three kinds, and one of them was high-
flavoured and melting. This is the first instance
of a pear of this kind having been found in China,
and it is a most welcome addition to the tables of
the foreign residents of Peking. Curiously enough,
this fruit, excellent though it is, is as yet unknown
at Tien-tsin, a place only about 70 miles distant!
On the right-hand side of this main street in the
Chinese city there are numerous cross streets, some
of which contained articles of a different kind from
those I have just been describing One named Loo-
le-chang appeared to be the "Paternoster Row"
of Peking. This street is nearly a mile in length,
and almost every shop in it is a bookseller's. There
are, no doubt, an immense number of rare and
curious books and maps in this place worthy of
the inspection of our sinalogues. Here are also a
number of shops having for sale carvings in jade-


Chap. XXII.
365
TEMPLE OF AGRICULTURE.
tiful examples of Ming porcelain. His Excellency
Mr. Bruce, Colonel Neale, the Secretary of Lega-
tion, and Dr. Rennie, had each secured many spe-
cimens of great beauty. Brigadier-General Stavely
had a large collection, amongst which were some of
the finest little pieces I have ever met with.
But to return to the main street, out of which I
have been wandering in order to examine the book-
shops, jade-stones, ancient porcelain, bronzes, and
other articles of taste and luxury. After proceed-
ing about half a mile, more or less, up this street,
I was surprised to find myself apparently out of
town. Here the broad paved street runs through
a large uncultivated plain, which, from its appear-
ance, must be frequently covered with water. I
then saw, for the first time, that but a small por-
tion of this Chinese city (so called) is covered with
houses. At some distance on my right and left I
observed large parks enclosed with high walls.
The enclosure on my left, or to the eastward, con-
tained the temple of Tein-tin, sacred to the god
of agriculture, to which the Emperor repairs once
in every year to worship Heaven. Here, it is said,
he devotes three days to solemn fasting and prayer,
and then proceeds to a field near the temple, where
with his own hands he holds the plough and throws
a portion of rice-grain into the ground to show the
importance which the Government attaches to the
cultivation of the soil. At the time of my visit to
Peking the Chinese had some objections to this
place, and that on the opposite side, named Tee-tin,


368
Chap. XXII.
PEKING.
probably indigenous to this part of China, were
all well known, and had been already introduced
to England from the gardens farther south than
Peking. These were Jasminum nudiflorum, Prunus
triloba, the Judas tree, Weigela rosea, Honey-
suckles, and Roses, amongst which I observed the
Banksian rose.
As this part of the country had probably not
been visited by foreigners, my appearance created
considerable sensation amongst the natives.
Every living thing in the villages—men, women,
children, babies in arms, and dogs—turned out
to see me. All seemed in good circumstances;
they were well clothed, and apparently well fed.
Although the crowd which gathered round me
was rather noisy, all were good-humoured, and
much more polite than such a crowd would have
been in some countries nearer home. When I
had gone over all the gardens in this neighbour-
hood I bade adieu to the crowds by which I had
been attended, and rode back in the direction of
the city, which I entered by the Nan-see-mun, or
south-west gate.
There are few houses in the south-west and
western part of the Chinese city. A large por-
tion of the land looks a dreary waste; much of
the ground is lying uncultivated or covered with
reeds, while other parts are occupied as vegetable
gardens, and here and there are some wretched
mud hovels. It will be observed, therefore, that
although the walls of the Chinese city enclose a


Chap. XXII.
371
LAMA TEMPLE.
its upper end there are a considerable number of
foreign tombs.
The Lama temple, situated in these northern
suburbs, is a very large establishment, and was ,
occupied by the force under Sir Hope Grant when
it marched on Peking. It appears to have been a
kind of caravansera as well as a temple. I ob-
served a number of priests lounging about, clothed
in robes of the imperial yellow colour. The most
remarkable object in the grounds is a fine octa-
gonal marble monument, richly carved with
figures in high relief. Like the mosque I have
already noticed, it is unlike anything one sees in
China; it is quite Indian in form, and the charac-
ters and figures are probably Thibetian. Leaving
the temple, we galloped along a grassy plain to the
north-east corner of the city; then passing south-
ward under the eastern walls, we entered the city
again by one of the gates on this side, and went
home by a different road from that by which we
came out. Before we reached the English Lega-
tion all Peking was up and astir,—horsemen were
galloping about, carts were jolting along the
dusty streets, long trains of camels with bells
jingling from their necks were toiling along, and
clouds of dust were filling the air and rendering
locomotion far from pleasant.
After rambling over this great city in almost
every direction, I may mention the following as
being its peculiar and most striking features. As
an eastern city it is remarkable for its great size,
2 b 2


372 CHIEF FEATURES OF PEKING. Chap. XXII.
and for its high and massive walls, ramparts, and
watch-towers. Its straight and wide streets are
different from those of any other Chinese town
which has come under my observation. Its impe-
rial palaces, summer-houses, and temples, with
their quaint roofs and yellow tiles, are very
striking objects; and the number of private dwell-
ings, situated amongst trees and gardens sur-
rounded with high walls, give a country or
park-like appearance to the great city. The trees
and gardens of the palaces, with King-shan, or
"Prospect Hill," are objects of considerable in-
terest, as is also the Lama mosque, suggesting, as
it does, some connexion in times long gone by
with Thibet or India.


Chap. XXIII. JOURNEY TO THE MOUNTAINS.
373
CHAPTER XXIII.
A journey to the mountains — Long trains of camels and donkeys —
Pagoda at Pale-twang — Large cemetery — Curious fir-tree —
Agricultural productions — Country people — Peach the foot of the
hills — Temples of Pata-tshoo — Foreign writing on a wall — A
noble oak-tree discovered — Ascend to the top of the mountains
— Fine views — Visit from mandarins — Early morning view —
Return to Peking — Descend the Pei-ho—Sail for Shanghae —
Arrange and ship my collections — Arrive in Southampton.
One of the principal objects I had in view in
coming thus far north was to get a peep at the
capital of China. Another inducement, and
perhaps a greater one, was the hope of being able
to add some new plants of an ornamental kind to
my former collections. And considering the cold
winters which are experienced in this part of the
world, anything of that kind would have been
almost certain to prove hardy in our English
climate. As the nursery-gardens I had visited
both at Tien-tsin and Peking were filled with
well-known southern species, and as the plain
through which I had passed was nearly all under
cultivation and contained few trees, I was anxious
to visit the mountains which bound this plain on
the north and west, where I hoped to find some-;
thing new to reward me for my long journey.


37U
LARGE CEMETERY. Chap. XX111.
observation. Four small temples are placed round
its base, in two of wbich are some figures repre-
senting Buddhist deities, and in the other two
there are tablets with inscriptions. A large
temple in a ruinous condition is placed between
the tower and the main road.
A little further on I came to a large cemetery
surrounded with high walls. As I was making
some inquiries about this place, an old Chinese
gentleman kindly volunteered to accompany me
over it, and to explain anything I wished to know.
When we entered this cemetery I was very much
struck with its appearance. It covered many
acres of land, and was evidently a very ancient
place. Broad walks intersected it at right angles,
and lofty trees of Juniper, Cypress, and Pine were
growing in avenues or shading the tombs. Here
was an example of taste and civilization which
existed at a very early period,—probably two or
three hundred years ago. When the nations of
Europe were crowding their dead in the dismal
churchyards of populous towns, and polluting the
air, the Chinese, whom we have been accustomed
to look upon as only half-civilized, were forming
pleasant cemeteries in country places, and plant-
ing them with trees and flowers. They were
doing ages ago in China what we have been doing
only of late years.
At the upper end of the cemetery, and forming
a termination to the broad avenues, I observed
some large marble tablets, supported by the tor-


378 AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTIONS. Chap. XXIII.
trees were standing, like sentinels, one on each
side of a grave. They were both covered with
cones, and therefore were in a fit state for a
critical examination of the species. But although
almost unknown in Europe, the species is not
new. It proved to be one already known under
the name of Pinus Bungeana. I had formerly met
with it in a young state in the country near
Shanghae, and had already introduced it into
England, although, until now, I had not the
slightest idea of its extraordinary appearance
when full grown. I would therefore advise those
who have young plants of this curious tree in
their collections to look carefully after them, as
the species is doubtless perfectly hardy in our
climate, and at some future day it will form a
very remarkable object in our landscape. One
of the trunks, which I measured at three feet from
the ground, was 12 feet in circumference.
The country through which I was now passing,
although comparatively flat, was gradually getting
a little higher and more undulating in its general
appearance. It was the harvest-time for the
summer crops of millet, Indian corn, and oily -
grain, and the farmers were busy in all the
fields gathering the crops into their barns. As
I walked during the greater part of my journey,
and did not always confine myself to the high
road, many were the amusing adventures I met
with by the way. Sometimes the simple villagers
received me with a kind of vacant wondering


Chap. XXIII.
379
COUNTRY PEOPLE.
stare, or scarcely condescended to look up from
the work with which they were engaged. At
other times they gathered round me, and, when
they found I was civilized enough to know a little *
of their language, put all sorts of questions, com-
mencing, for politeness, with those in relation to
my name, my age, and my country. On one occa-
sion, as I was passing through a village, a solitary
lady, rather past the middle age and not particu-
larly fascinating, was engaged in rubbing out
some corn in front of her door. I gave her the
usual salutation. She looked up from her work,
and when she saw who stood before her she gave
me one long earnest stare, and whether she thought
I was really " a foreign devil" or a being from some
other world I cannot say, but after standing for
a second or two, without speaking or moving, she
suddenly turned round and fled across the fields.
I watched her for a little while; she never ap-
peared to slacken her pace or to look back, and
for aught I know she may be still running away!
About noon I began to get near the foot of the
mountains, and I could see in the distance a group
of temples extending from the bottom to near the
top of a hill, and nestling amongst trees. This
looked like an oasis in the landscape, for all else
round about was wild and barren. Shortly after-
wards we left the main road, and another mile of
a byway brought us to the bed- of a mountain
stream, dry at this season, and covered with
boulders of granite, but no doubt filled with a


384
VIEW FROM THE MOUNTAINS. Chap. XXIII.
a mountain or a hill on any part of its surface.
Behind me, to the north, were hills and mountains
of every size and form, separated by valleys in
which I observed, in some places, little farm-houses
and patches of cultivated land. The tops of these
mountains, and by far the greater portion of their
sides, were bleak and barren, yielding only some
wiry grasses, a species of stunted thorny Bhamnus
(? JR. zizyphus); and here and there, at this season,
a little Campanula, not unlike the Blue Bells of
Scotland, showed itself amongst the clay-slate rocks
which were cropping out over all the hills. In
the spring there are no doubt many other kinds of
flowers which blossom unseen amongst these wild
and barren mountains.
This map of nature which lay before me was
one of no common kind. It reminded me of the
views from the outer ranges of the Himalayas over
the plains of Hindostan, with this difference, that
these Chinese mountains rival in barren wildness
many parts of the Scottish Highlands. When I
was in full enjoyment of the scenery around and
beneath me, my companions pointed to the setting
sun, and suggested that it was time to go down to
the temples. Night was already settling down
upon the vast plain, and objects were becoming
gradually indistinct there, while the last rays of
the setting sun still illuminated the peaks of the
western mountains.
When we got back to the temple the good priest
pretended to have been greatly alarmed on account


386
RETURN TO PEKING. Chap. XXIII.
posing to view the pagodas, bridges, and towers
which but a short time before had been invisible.
During the day I visited some temples and gardens
on the other side of a valley, and secured a supply
of the plants of the district for the herbarium, and
the seeds of several trees of an ornamental and
useful character worth introducing into Europe.
The people amongst these hills seemed to be a
quiet and inoffensive race, miserably poor, having
only the bare necessaries of life and none of its
luxuries. The Buddhist priests were apparently
much better off, being, no doubt, upheld and sup-
ported by their devotees among the wealthier
classes of the capital, who came to enjoy the
scenery amongst the hills and to worship in the
temples.
After a pleasant sojourn of two days in this
part of the country I returned to Peking. As on
the way out, long trains of donkeys and camels
were met and passed on the road, many of them
being laden with coal, which is found in abundance
amongst these western hills. On the way back I
paid another visit to the cemetery of Pale-twang,
and obtained a fresh supply of the seeds of the
curious fir-tree I have already described.
Having finished my-work in Peking and packed
up the collections I had formed there, T left that
city on the 28th of September, and considered
myself as once more "homeward bound." My
friend Dr. Lockhart accompanied me several
miles on my way. With many good wishes for a


Chap. XXIII. COLLECTIONS SENT TO ENGLAND. 387
prosperous voyage home the worthy medical mis-
sionary bade me adieu, and returned to his arduous
duties in the far-famed capital of Cathay. As it was
my intention to return to Tien-tsin by boat down the
Pei-ho river, I had taken the road which leads
from Peking to the pity of Tong-chow, at which
place boats were to be procured for the voyage.
A short distance on the north-west of Tong-chow
I passed the now celebrated bridge and battle-field
of Pali-kao. On arriving at Tong-chow I found
no difficulty in engaging a boat, and we sailed
rapidly and pleasantly down the stream.
As opportunities for leaving Tien-tsin for the
south were few and uncertain, I had to remain
some days there before I could get onwards. At
last, owing to the kindness of the French com-
mandant at Taku, I procured a passage in the
despatch boat 'Contest,' and reached Shanghae
on the 20th of October. Here I found my
Japanese collections (which I had left in Mr.
Webb's garden) in excellent condition, and I em-
ployed the next fortnight in preparing them for
their long voyage home round the Cape of Good
Hope. The collections were divided into two equal
portions, and, as a precautionary measure, were
put on board of two ships. These cases have now
reached England, and nearly every plant of im-
portance has been introduced alive. Long shelves
filled with these rare and valuable trees and shrubs
of Japan have been exhibited during the last two
summers by Mr. Standish at the different botanical
2 c 2


388
VOYAGE HOME. Chap. XXIII.
and horticultural exhibitions in the metropolis,
and already many of the earlier introductions have
been distributed all over Europe.
Some especial favourites, which I did not like to
trust to the long sea journey round the Cape, were
brought home by the overland route under my
own care. One of these is a charming little saxi-
frage, having its green leaves beautifully mottled
and tinted with various colours of white, pink,
and rose. This will be invaluable for growing in
hanging baskets in greenhouses or for window
gardening. I need not tell now how I managed
my little favourites on the voyage home; how I
guarded them from stormy seas, and took them on
shore for fresh air at Hongkong, Ceylon, and
Suez; how I brought them through the land of
Egypt and onwards to Southampton. More than
one of my fellow-passengers by that mail will re-
member my movements with these two little hand
greenhouses. On the 2nd of January, 1862, the
Peninsular and Oriental Company's ship ' Ceylon,'
Captain Evans, steamed into the dock at South-
ampton, and thus ends the narrative of my visit to
Zipangu and Cathay.


INDEX.
391
FOOD.
PAGE
Food, articles used as, in Yedo.. 123
Forest trees near Yedo .. .. 58
Forsythia, a new sp 320
Fow-ching-mun gate, Peking .. 374
Fowls, a fine white kind .. .. 37
Shantung 338
Fragaria 210
Fruits at Nagasaki 16
at Yedo 57,139
Fusi-yama, appearance and height 27
Japanese sketch of .. .. 28
views of 4-.), 150
Gan-ke-ro at Yokuhama .. 37,38
Gardenia radicans 139
Gardens at Nagasaki.. .. 11, 13
at Peking 367
at Tien-tain 317
at Yedo 103
Geological features .. 39, 61,269
Ginger 58
Gingko (Salishuria) 59
Ginseng 281
Girls meeting, a sketch .. .. 218
Glycine sinensis, large tree of .. 189
Gordon, l)r 318
Gotiro, murder of 82
Gotto, Cape 2
Governor of Kanagawa, a visit
from 299
Granaries, Imperial 339
Grand Canal 311, 342
"Grande Vue" in Yedo .. .. 80
Grapes, Peking 363
Tien-tsin 321
(Yedo vine) 57
Hair, mode of dressing .. .. 119
Hakadadi, winter at 265
Hakone, mountains of .. .. 49
Hall, Dr 58
male Aucuba in his garden 60
Hansseu, Mr 316
Harama-nada Sea 160
Harris, H. E. Townsend, a visit to 188
Harvest, barley 271
of winter crops 271
Harvesting, curious mode of .. 272
Heads, Japanese, sketch of .. 119
Healthiness of Jajan 266
Heat of summer in Japan.. .. 266
in Peking 334
Helix jai*>nica 215
quaesito 215
JDTE.
Hepburn, Dr., his meteorological
tables' ".. 266
Heuskin, Mr., tomb of .. .. 198
Highway, Imperial 41
Hiogo 162
as a centre of trade .. 155, 283
Thun berg's description of.. 155
Horner Peak 25
Hotel of " Ten Thousand Centu-
ries" 66
on road to Peking .. .. 347
Hoya Matotskii 13
Humming-tops 36
Hydrangeas 301
Ice-houses at Tien-tsin .. .. 321
fruit preserved in .. .. 321
Idsu, Cape 26
Ikomono 83
Illicium anisatum 46
Imperial granaries -839
Inland Sea . . 152
islands in 157
scenery of 158, 167
Inn at Kamakura 228
"Mansion of Plum-trees" 68
of " Ten Thousand Centuries"
140, 142
Inns in Kaunpfer's time .. .. 69
Ino-sima 160
Intemperance of Japanese .. 118
Iris on house-tops .. :. .. 56
Iron 281
Islands, curious 2
in Inland Sea 157
of Japan 264
Itzeebu, a silver coin .. .. 142
Ivory carvings 33, 34
Jamabo, mountain priests .. 138
Japan, agriculture of .. .. 268
animals of 278
climate of 264, 266
merchants of 294
productions of 281
Japanese nightingale 120
silk, value of 282
Jasminum nudiflorum .. .. 317
hardiness of .. .. 318,368
Sambac 317
Joo-ne-shoo 199
Jute 338
its stems used as fuel .. 340