CONTENTS. Introduction Biz. 1 VRIES VOYAGE. 1 Discovery of the Island of Brestens and of Quast's Islands. » 3 2 - Tasman's Islands » 7 3 , • the East Coast of Japan, from Cape Sirofama on Nippon (Toint Bosho) to the North point. » 12 4 » the Land of Jezo 33 ON THE AINOES. The Aino Trihe - 97 ' • Language 125 Collection of Aino Words - 132 Productions of the Aino Lands 144 Comparative Tahle of the Latitude and Longitude of the principal points and places of Jezo, the south Kurils and of Krafto ¦ 179 In introducing the present work to the notice of the British Public , I feel myself compelled to state what induced me to undertake the task , and made me suppose it would be favorably received. Amongst a number of manuscripts entrusted to the care and examination of Mr. Ered. Muller, our well known bi bliophile and publisher, by Mr. Huydecooper van Maarse- veen at Amsterdam, the former, to his great delight, dis covered the original log of M. G. Vries' voyage along the coasts of Japan ; a voyage so celebrated in the annals of maritime discovery, that the loss of its account was deeply lamented bij La Perouse , as well as by other navigators. No sooner was the treasure discovered, than it was en trusted to the care of Captain P. A. Leupe of the Ma rines, by whom it was enriched with various annotations, and was published by the Eoyal literary and philological Institute of Netherlands' India at Delft. Our great Japanese Savant, Professor Von Siebold, at present sent out on a mission to Japan, having been in formed of the precious discovery of the long missing ma- nuscript, immediately offered his services to our publisher, in rendering it applicable to the demand of the present day. To this undertaking Prof. Von Siebold is most eminently fitted by his profound acquirements in natural history and philology , the results of whichi he has communicated in the following pages , that have thereby acquired a value scarce ly to be equalled by any other recent work on the Japa nese empire; added to which, the astonishing accuracy of Vries' observations concerning the soundings and navigation of those seas, the minute correctness of which , is now fully ascertained, justifies the statement, that no other work of this century spreads so much light over Japan and its coasts as the present. The importance of the information contained in this va luable work of Prof. Von Siebold's, inspired the publisher with the desire of introducing it to the notice of the British Public, and though the same motive would have been suffi cient to induce me to comply with his request , I was the more willing to do so, as it afforded me an opportunity of testifying the esteem and friendship I feel for him , as well as of anticipating upon my functions of Interpreter to the British Consulate General in Japan , E. M. Cowan. Amsterdam, 7th March 1859. , a comparative examination and confirmation of this na vigator's observations and discoveries, from the point of view of our knowledge of those regions, and 3rd to a review of the results this voyage has had for hydro graphy, the natural history of. the sea and for ethnology. In order however to give to that appendix to the Log a more general utility and practical tendency, espe cially since the opening of a new port at ITakotade, to the north of the Nippon empire, I have so arranged my observations that they may serve as a mariner's guide for the navigation of the east coast of Japan and to Jezo, Krafto and the Kuriles, a work which has become of paramount necessity. It is to the political influence of Netherland in Japan that the world is indebted for a more general freedom of commerce to that land; may therefore the observa tions and discoveries of the old Dutch navigators be the foundation of a guide along coasts as yet nearly unknown. - VON SlEBOLD. Note. The originary Journal, as also the Instructions here men tioned , was discovered by Messrs. F. Muller and Captain P. A. Leupe and published with the annotations of the latter gentleman * We bere only offer the remarks and observations , they being of most importance to the navigators of our country, the persons for whose benefit these pages are principally intended. * Reize vsubMaartkn Geeeits Vhies in 1643 naar het uoordcn en oosten van Japau, volgens het Joumaal geliouden door C. J. Coen, op het schip Castricum, naar het handschrift uitgegeven en met bclangrijke bnlngen vcrmeerderd door P. A. Leupe , Kapitcin der Madmen. Amsterdam, by Trederik Muller, 1858 in Svo.. I. Discovery of the Island of Jireskens and of Quasfs Islands. Commodore Tries had called a council of the flute Castricum and of the yacht Breskens, on the 29*h April, at 16° 50' K Lat. and 149° 38%' East of Teneriffe (12S° 18' 6" East of Greenwich) and determined, should wind and weather permit, to continue his course N.E. to 24° yN. Lat. and to the longitude of the east coast of Japan (then fixed by the observations of Ma- thys Quast and Abel Tasman, August 21A 1630, at 31° 40' East of Pulo Timoan, (135° 55' East of Greenwich). On the 7th of May they found themselves at 24° 4' N. Lat. and 150° 56' 30" East of Teneriffe. Small rockmews, foam, floating seaweed and a piece of wood were so many signs of land, which however was not yet visible. The next morning (May 8th) after sunrise they discovered to the W. N 1/i N. , within a dis tance of four German miles, a small low island , about a mile and a half long. According to the observation taken at noon, the island lay at 24° 43' N. Lat- and 151° 31%' East from Teneriffe (130° 11' 6" from Greenwich). As at this latitude no other island than that of Malabrigo was to be found on the Company's charts , * and as that lay , by computation , 21 miles to the west , they considered the one before them * Twee caerten van gedaene conrsen.der Comm. Quasi, tot onl- deckingh van 't Goudrijcie eyland. 1* 4 IHXAS DOS HAnMANOS, IDENTICAL as unknown , and because the Breskens had first disco vered it, they named it Breskens Island. On the charts of that period we only find three islands between 25° and 27° North. Latitude and with in a longitude of about 70 German miles. The most southern and westerly of these bears the name of Am sterdam , the north-eastern (properly a group of five small islands) that of Ihlas dos Hermanos, and the third, at 26° N. Lai, 17 miles to the S. W. of the Ihlas doa Hermanos, that of Malabrigo. The two last named islands, which are both given on Abraham Ortelius's "Theatrum orbis terrarum", published in 1570, and of which Malabrigo was seen in 1543 by Bernardo de Torres, are certainly the Hooge Meeuiuen Island, the Engels and GracJds Is lands discovered by Quast and Tasman in 1639 * and named Quast's Islands t on the above quoted Caerten * Journael ofte dachregisler van denTZd. Commandeur Maihijs Quast M. S. 1639. Von Siebold's Geschichte der Entdeckungen im Seege- biete von Japan. Leyden 1853. t This chain of islands, stretching from 26° 38' to 27° 45' >'. Lat. and from 142° to 142° 14' East Long, from Greenwich, has been fre quently found in later times, and is given under the names of Istas del Arzobispo (1734), Margaret's islands (1773), Mendizaval, Des- eonosida, Guadelupe etc., and marked at widely differing longitudes on tbe maps ofthe \S,^ century, though no-where geographically de scribed. They were also accidentally discovered hy the Japanese as early as 1675, and called Munin-sima , i. e. islands without men, and afterwards, after their discoverer, Ogasawa-sima. In 17S5 a Japanese geographer, Fajasi SlVJEt, described and mapped them in his work entitled "San-kok-lsu-ran-dsa-ki" ("description of three kingdoms. "). That work , and a Dutch translation , was brought over to Holland by the learned Isaac Titsingh , Chief of the Dutch trade in Japan in the years 1780 — 17S5. After his death (at Paris in lS12)_it fell into the hands of Abel Kemusat and afterwards into those of Julias Klaproth. WITH Qll.AST S ISLANDS. 5 van gedaeue Coursen. The first, indisputably discovered by Netherlander and by degrees disappearing from the the maps, was re-discovered by a Russian officer, Lieut. Ponafidin, in 1820, at 25° 50' N. Lat. and 131° 12' E. Long., and called Forodind's Islands, after his ship and because there are two. They are doubtless the same which Captain Eorbes sailed past with the brig Nile , in August 1825, and of which the most southerly was found to be at 25° 42' N. Lat., 131° 13' E. Long., and the most northerly at 25° 53' N. Lat., 131° 17' E. Long. These islands were lately visited by Commodore Perry , By these illegal heirs of Titsingb's literary remains therefore the description of the so called "Isles Bonin ou inhabilees" was published in 1818, again drew the attention of navigators to them, and led as it were to their re-discovery by the English Captain Beechey (June 1S27) and by the Russian Capt. Lutke (May 1828). Now, since the 22"d Aug. 1853, there has been a colony, mostly of Americans, on the largest ofthe Bonins, ("Peel Island" , which was taken possession of for England by Beechey) calling themselves ihe colony of Peel Island. The southern group of these islands , named by Beechey Baily Group , was visited and taken possession of in October 1853 by the American Capt. Kelly for the United States of North America, and named Coffin's Islands after the Captain of the American whaler Transit, which accidentally anchored therein 1S23. Commodore Perry, who visited the Bonin islands in 1S53, saw very rightly that for whalers as well as for the steam-mail-packets from California to China and later to Japan, these islands would soon become one of the most im portant stations in the North Pacific Ocean. England has thus shared the possession of the Quast's Islands with America, whilst the honour of the discovery belongs to our old Dutch navigators, and the merit of the first geographical knowledge of them to the literary research es of our Netherland literati. As early as 1S24 the writer of the present sheets called the attention of the Dutch Indian Government tt\ this important group, where the Japan government, for they belong to the Japanese empire, would rather see the Dutch flag wave than auy other. DISCOVERY OF TASMAN S ISLANDS. II. Discovery of Tasmans Islands. On the home passage of Mathijs Quast and Abel Tasnian in 1639 from the voyage for the discovery of the Gold and Silver islands (Gout- en Silverryche eylan- den) , situated to the east of Japan , the coast of Japan was made on the 2nd of December, at 34° 54' N. Lat. This land, which they mistook for the islands given in the old Portuguese charts to the W. of the S. E. point of Nippon, is in reality the S. E. point of the great island of Japan , Cape Sirofama or as it is named on the old Portuguese charts , Calo de Bosho. Erom here they held a S. S. W. course, along which they discovered seve ral small islands, determining their position as exactly as they could , and preparing excellent drawings to pre sent to their government. To this chain of islands I have given the name of Tasman's Islands. * One of these islands, which appeared as very high land (heel hooch lanl) , was seen from the Castricum at a short distance, on the 19th of May 1643, and by stress of wind and stream that vessel was soon after obliged to anchor at the N. W. point. This island > to which Yries gave the name olHei Ongeluckich eylant, is called Fatsi sjo by the Japanese, and according to the observations of the court-astronomer Sakusajemon at Jedo, lies at 33° 6' 30" N. and 3° 50' 30" E. of Mijako, (139° 30' 30" E. of Greenwich). Capt. Brough ton, who visited these islands in 1796, fixed the * Von Sieboi.d's Geschichte der Entdeckungen , p. 8. 8 INACCURARIES IN LONGITUDE ACCOUNTED FOR. position of Falsi sj6 at 30° 6' N. and 140° E. On the original chart of his voyage it lies at 33° 4' N. and 140° T E. The N. W. point where Vries an chored is, as he calculates, at a latitude of 33° 22' and 158° 51%' Long. East of Teneriffe (137° 30' 6" E. of Gr.) We have already remarked that the differ ence in the longitude of the islands we find on the charts ofthe 17th and 18th centuries, between 24° and 28° N. Lat., is attributable to an eastward current and, as we have seen, this difference sometimes amounts to twelve degrees. In comparison with this therefore, the difference between Yries's longitude and that of the court-astronomer (which I prefer to Brough ton's which is 2° more easterly) , is insignificant when we consider that the stream between Falsi sjo and the S. E. coast of Nippon, was for three successive days observed by the American expedition to be 72', 74' and 78' within 24 hours. 1 ,; The description given in the Journal of the Unlucky island, agrees with the sketch made by Quast and Tas- man , and is therefore the only description of that island we as yet know. The words "the Unlucky island was very high land, appearing with two high round moun tains, between which was a large valley''', are il lustrated by Quast and Tasman on their chart, and at the same time explain the name of an is land nearly at this point in a map of de ITsle's "Montague avec deux pics" * These peaks are also to be found on an original Japanese map by Falsi sjo; the highest is Aha fitsi jama, i. e. the Eed Eusi mountain * Carte de VAsie, par J. de 1'Isle, a Amsterdam, chez Covens & Mortier. TOE KURO SIWO, OR JAPAN STREAM. 9 (opposite the celebrated volcano Fv.si, which is covered with snow the greater part of the year — and is therefore white). The position and form also of the small "high round island''', 1 to 1% mile TV", from the N. W. point of the Unlucky island, called Kosima (i.e. little island) by the Japanese, and marked by Tries "ronde holm", is very accurately given, while the ob servation that, "between here the stream runs with a stiff current round ihe N. JF" , is of the first impor tance for a knowledge of the Japanese stream Kuro siwo or Kuro gawa, i. e. black sea-stream. Of this current, which I have given on my map of Japan,* from an original Japanese map, it is said that between Falsi sjo and Mikura (Prince-eyland of Vries) it is about three miles broad, and in spring and winter dangerous for navigation. This stream has been more closely examined, mapped and described by the Ame rican expedition t. Vries's remark : "saegen veel steen- croos dnjven" , confirms the observation that the Japan stream, like the gulfstream in the Atlantic, is distin guished by banks of a peculiar sort of sea-weed. The high island seen by Vries on the morning of the 20tn May to the south of Unlucky island, called by him Suyder eylandt, and by the Japanese Awo sima (i. e. Green island), was discovered by Quast and Tas- man (Nov. 3rd 1639), its position determined, from * Von Siebold , Atlas von Land- und Seekarlen vom Jaypanischen Seiche. No. I. + Narrative of Ihe expedition of an American Squadron in ihe China Seas and Jaypan\ performed in the years 1852 — 54, under the command of Commodore 31. C.Perry, by Prancis L. Hawks. New- York, 1856. The Kuro siwo, or Japan sir cam, p. 601. 10 VRIES VISITS THE TASMAiVs ISLES 6 to 7 miles S. by "W. of Unlucky island, at 32° 33' N. Lat., and a drawing made of it. On coming to anchor in the evening of the 20* May at a latitude, by calculation, of 33° 52' and 159° 22' Long. East of Tener., (according to our correc tion with -f- 2°, at 140° 0' 36" E. of Gr.) , two other islands were seen from the Castricum W.by TV, at a distance of 11 or 12 German miles. These are, — the island of Mikura, called by Vries Prince eylandt , and that of Myake, according to the Log Barnevelfs and on his chart, Brandend eylandt, because there was a smoking mountain seen on it. These two islands were calculated to lie at latitude 34° 1' and longitude 158° 28' (according to our cor rection 139° 7' 36" E. of Gr.); a calculation which tolerably well agrees with the observations of the court-astronomer and with the map of Broughton. Erom here, as I shall afterwards show, Vries continued his course along the N. E. and E. coast of Japan , the first hydrographic knowledge of which we owe to him. On his voyage back, the Tasmania Islands were again visited by Vries, and their geographical position more exactly determined. The 28t!l October he was at 33° 58' N. Lat. and 160° 25' E. of Ten. (138° 34' 36" E. of Gr.), where Prince island W. six miles, and Barnevelfs island W. N. W. six miles were ob served. According to this observation, the former lies at 33° 58' and the second at 33° 6' N. Lat., which only offers a difference of some minutes between those of the court-astronomer and of Broughton, while the longitude of Mikura (Prince Island) , as taken on the roads of Falzi sjo on the 29 October (159° 56' E- AND DETERMINES THEIR RELATIVE POSITION. 11 of Tener. or 138° 34' 36" E. of Gr.), being 55' 54" less than that of the court-astronomer, may be fixed at 139° 36' 30" E. of Gr., if we correct by -f 55' 54"; — and this agrees pretty nearly with the geographical position given to it on the small chart of Commodore Perry's voyage. * Vries directed his course to Barnevelfs Island on the 2Sth October, sailed between that island and Prince Island and determined the relative position of the Tasmarfs group by repeated observations. On my corrected map of Japan (Atlas N°. 1) I have called this passage first undertaken by a European ship, Cas- tricum Straits, and the "number of high pointed cliffs which appear as so many high towers", 1 mile by W. y3 N. (from Barnevelfs Island), Coerts Cliffs, after the worthy mate ofthe vessel. Broughton , who in 1796 followed the same course as Vries had taken, also saw and described these cliffs: "Off the West point of Volcano Isle are some detached black rocks at two or three miles distance" t , and marked them on his map. On the map of Japan No. 2347, published by the Admiralty in London 1855-56, these cliffs are called "Black Rocks" This navigator has also discovered an other group of rocks more to the south-west than Coerfs Cliffs, called by the Japanese Inaniwa and by * Map of the Japan Islands copied from vos Siebold's with slight additions and corrections by Ihe U. S. Japan Expedition and other authorities, compiled ly order of Commodore M.C.Perry, by Lieuts W. L. Maury and Silas. Bent. 1S55. t A. voyage of discovery to ihe North Pacific Ocean, performed in II. M. sloop Providence and her tender , in ihe years 1795 — 98, by W. K. Broughton. London. 1804. p. 140. 12 LATIT. OK COE.VS CLIFFS AND REDi'lELD'S ROCKS. von Krusenstern Broug/don's Cliffs. I believe Coerfs Cliffs to be the same as the Redfi eld-Rocks , marked as a new discovery on the small chart of Commodore Perry and on the Admiralty chart at about 33° 55' N.Lat. and 138° 50' E. Long. If off this height there were any other cliffs than Coetis (Broughton's Black Rocks), Broughton, who cruised there, would have seen them. If however the RedfelcTs Rocks exist, they lie more to the north, and are the same as marked on Janssen's chart at 34° 35' N. Lat. and at the meridi an of Cape Idsu, and therefore also seen by Vries. The islands N.W.byW. five miles and N.N.W., six miles from Barnevelfs Island %vere also observed by Vries on this voyage , aud mapped as Gebroken Filanden. This name (Broken Islands) applies to these islands , and not to the whole group. To the whole chain — a series of active and extinct volcanoes from Ohosima to Falsi sjo Sima — we have given the name of Tasman's Islands. I have thought it necessary to enter into these historio-hydro- geographical particulars, not only to fix indisputably the discovery of this whole chain of islands , more than two hundred years ago, by Quast, Tasman and Vries, but also to make the justness of their observations appreciated by comparing them with those of celebrated navigators of our own days. ILL The Discovery of the Fast Coast of Japan , from Cape Sirofama on Nipjjon (Point Bosho) to the North point. The East point of the island Nippon then was un known, with the exception of two points seen and VRIES'S MERITS. 13 mapped by Quast and Tasman in 1639. Those navi gators reconnoitred the coast of Japan at 37° 30' N. Lat. on the 24'h August, and at 34° 54' N.Lat. on the 1st and 2nd November. The first was a part of the coast between Cape de Kennih and the Rookhoeck (of Vries) ; the other was the Cabo de Bosho (of the Portu guese), the south point of the province of Aioa, on the west side of which is the entrance to the bay of Jedo. We are indebted to Vries for the discovery and obser vation of the whole coast from Cape Bosho to the North point of Japan (from 35° 5S' to 41° 25' N. Lat.) ; a coast which, before the opening ofthe harbours of Simoda and of Hakotade (on Jezo) , had been visited by no navigator but by Captains Spangberg and Walton in 1739 , * by Capt. King in 1779 , t and by Capt. Brough ton in 1796 and 1797 J The two last-named hydro- graphers could however only follow the course of our navigator and confirm his discoveries with the assistance of the very faulty little chart of Vries's voyage, which was published about 1650 by Johannes Janssonius. ** The writer of these pages too , when treating this part of the coast of Nippon, had no other chart thariBrough- ton'stt to refer to, except original Japanese ones. It is therefore now of real importance to explain * Voyages et dtcouverles faites par les Susses le long des cotes de la Mer glaciate et sur F Ocean Oriental, tant vers leJapon que vers V Amerique , par Mr. G. P. Muller. Amsterdam 176G. vol. I. p. 210. f Troisieme voyage de Cook. Tom. IV. p. 372. § See ante. **Nooa et accnrata Japoniae, terrae Esonis ac insularum adjacentium ex noeissima detectione descriptio apud Joannem Janssonium. ff A general chart of the Japanese Islands , and N. E. Coast of Asia, in Bronghton's Voyage. 11 JAPANESE MAPS OF NIPPON. Vries's discoveries by his lately discovered Log. As however the knowledge of the configuration of the east part of the coast of the large island of Nippon as yet rests on the authority of Japanese charts , accord ing to which the most important promontories, gulfs and bays discovered by Vries, King and Broughton, have been geographically determined , named and mapped, we ought to take a Japanese map for our foundation when reviewing the discoveries of Vries. Eor this purpose we have chosen our map of the Japan empire , compiled from original maps and the observations of the court- astronomer at Jedo. * And to profit as much as possible by the observations of our renowned navigator, we will endeavour , while comparing them with those of others , to work them up into a mariner's guide along this hither to little known coast. We shall thus be rendering a service to the navigation along the East coast of Japan. t Cape Bosho. The S. E. point of Japan , formed by a promontory of the region of Awa on the island of Nippon, is called Cabo de Bosho by the Portuguese, from the neighbouring harbour of the town of Fosjo. * Karle vom Japanischen Seiche nach Originalkarten und Reobach- tungen der Japaner , in von Siebold's Atlas von Land- und Seekar- ten vom Japanischen Seiche No. 1. f In the account of the voyage of Capt. Pabins, for the purpose of visiting the ports of Hakotade and Simoda with the Dutch screw Corvet Medusa, September and October 1S56, it is said: "The 17tl1 Sept. we left Hakotade and continued our way along the east coast of Nippon , but this voyage was exceedingly difficult. A nearly unknown coast, strong currents, violent storms, iioo hurricanes, bad charts, (among which that of v. Siebold is by far the best) , made that voyage long and dangerous." sic ! 16 WUITE POINT, OR DAI DO SAKI (Siro fama); the land to the South of Cape Bosho is higher than io the North. One can easily take sound ings from 36 to 10 fathoms, sometimes coral ground, sometimes shingle, sometimes sand". The current flows here to the N.E. and N.N.E. Captain King rec koned the rate of the current , which ran at 45 English miles E. from this promontory N. E. % N-, at 3 English miles an hour. * It is here the N. W. limit of the Japan stream (Kurosiwo, i. e. black sea-stream), which, accor ding to the observations of the American expedition, at one degree more to the south still runs with a rapidity of from 72' to 80' a day. Vries saw here sea-weed floating, which was also observed by the American expedi tion in unusually large quantities off Isomura, and may be compared with the fucus nutans of the Atlantic gulfstream. In the bay of Iso mura they also observed a dis colouring of the water, probably attributable to the floating banks of seaweed. Here, from 74 to 80 fa thoms, fine black sandground was leaded, t The White Point. "From the S.F. point oj Japan , named Bosho , the coast stretches N. N. B. to the white spotted point ; then there is a low-shored bay , stretching about 4 miles away to the north , and high sandhills". The White Point, on the Japanese maps Dai do saki or Oho figasi saki, i. e. the great East point , is , according to Vries , (Jansson's Chart) at 35° * Troisieme voyage de Cook. Tom IV. p. 384. ¦f- Narrative of the expedition of an American squadron to ihe China seas and Japan, performed in the years 1852 — 54, under the Com mand of Commodore M.C.Perry, by Prancis L. Hawks. New York 1856. p. 497. DESCRIBED. TIIE LOW HAY. 17 25' N. Lat. A little more to the south of this point another promontory runs out into the sea, bearing the name of Katsura saki, from a small neighbouring town. The bay to the south of that promontory , which Vries regarded as "the low foreland into which a river seems to run", is the bay of Utsi ura with the har bour of Kominato (i. e. small haven) , into which several rivers throw themselves, of which the Itsumigawa and the Amanogaica are the largest. This harbour is 32 Ei * from Cape Sagami (also called Nagatzuru and Mono-mi saki), at which place is the entrance to the bay of Jedo, and is the first we come to, passing along the S. E. coast. Close to the JFhite Point lie several rocks and small islands, the largest of which is called Uwa- rasima; they seem to run out into the sea under water, and to end in a reef. The American expedition observed here a broken and variously coloured sea, at a depth of 30 fathoms coral-ground, which decreased eastwards to 21 fathoms. King and Broughton saw many fishermen off here, and admired the industry with which the land was cultivated. The lowBay. Erom the White Point to the Sandhill Point the coast retires in a bay about nine miles wide, which bears the name of Siro salo fama (white village strand). It is a low region , watered by several rivers and lakes. The greatest river is the Kuri jama gawa, which throws itself into the sea at the frontier between the re- o-ions ofKadsusa and Simosa. Along this bay, "-where tliey * According to the calculation of the court-astronomer Sakusajemon there are 284 Ei to one degree of lat. of 15 German miles. Wherever we speak of miles, German or geographical miles are meant, except where the contrary is expressed. 18 SANDHILL POINT AND WHALE BAY, saw much sea-weed floating and lambs or divers swim ming", Vries sailed N. E. by N. to a distance of from 4 to 5 miles from Sandhill Point, leading from 10 to 20 fathoms of black sandground, and farther up, to 4 miles E. from that point, from 22 to 42 fathoms. The stream runs along the low shore N.E. and N. N. E. The Sandhill Point, called Dai do saki, lies at about 9 miles N.E. by N. from the White Point, according to Vries at 36° N. Lat. , and according to the original map of the court-astronomer Takahasi Saku Sajemon at 35° 43' N. Lat. and 140° 46' E. Long. "About a mile off the B. of the Sandhill Point lies a small island resembling the Cannibals island in the straits of Sunda. About a mile to the north of said island there is another small island, but somewhat more level, like the island Harlem, hit it lies close under the shore. From the Sandhill Point the land falls way to the N. N. W., and makes again a deep curve, being all equally low land." This is JFhale-bay. At Sandhill point a large river, the Nasaka, navigable far inland , throws itself into the sea. At the mouth of this river there is also a good harbour, Tosi minato, reckoned to be at 38 Hi from above mentioned harbour of Kominato. Within a distance of about 5 English miles from this point, King observed a very strong current of five English miles an hour. * Whale Bay, so called by Vries because of the mul titude of porpoises, dolphins, and whales they saw there. Much sea-weed was also remarked, which, as is well- known, the whale generally seeks after. On the Ja- Troisieme voyage de Cook, 1. c. LOW POINT AND TREE POINT DESCRIBED. 19 panese maps this bay is called Fiiaisi hara no, (i. e. level field of the Fitatsi region). Sunning landwards with a N. W. course, one finds from 40 to 26 fathoms oozy- ground. The land is low and flat , and marshy on account of the water which sinks down from the high interior, and collects in pools and lakes (such as the lakes of Takeda and Einuma). In the N. W. "on the loio land in the deepest of the curve" rises "a high rugged mountain" (the chain characterised by the Asife, Majumi, Ohono and other summits). The N. extremity of this bay is a low, flat point, called by Vries the. L o w P o i n t, and marked on the Japanese maps Minalo saki , i. e. harbour point , because there, at the mouth of the Nakagawa, there is a considerable harbour, 3 Ei from the town of Mito and 20 Ei from the harbour of Tosi. This distance agrees with the observation of Vries, "the N point (Minalo saki) lay then S. by JF. 3 miles from us , and Sandhill point (Tosi minalo) lay then S. by JF. a good six miles from us; the N. point is a low flat point" Here, and more northwards, one lias from 40 to 50 fa thoms of sandground, which dries up as one approaches the shore. The land here begins to become higher to the Tree point. "A steep point resembling an island, from behind which, lo the North, we savj several fish ing-boats come out to sea to fish ; coming somewhat nearer to the point, had 24 fathoms , white sandground, it Having been black sandground before. When a mile from the point, we saw that a river fell into the sea behind it to the north. Inland, the country is very high , in some places 2,3,4 fold, and in many places the high land rises perpendicular out of ihe water. They (the fishermen) named the river behind the above men- 2* 20 LATIT. OF RUGGED POINT, ACCORDING TO tioned steep point, Gissima, and offered to bring us into it, saying that there at the entrance there was 9 or 10 fathoms water and that it was not good round the North. Inthe steep point of Gissima stands, some what inland, a clump of trees as if it was a fort, of which one tree sticks out above the others, having on the top a round crown." The tree point is the pro montory named Siwoja saki, the river the Same gawa or salmon river. No such place as Gissima exists here, possibly the city of Idsumi was meant, which lies at about a mile from the mouth of the river, or perhaps the high mountain Irusima. Close to the mouth of the river is a harbour, the distance of which is given as 24 Ei from Minato saki. The high land is formed by a mountain chain from which arise the Jonowoko , Akai- nowoka and Irusima, behind which the tops of the Jekojama and other high mountains appear. The Tree- point W. \ S. 3 miles , and another point , "lying there to the north, very rugged with small mountains was N. % W. 3 miles, (Vries was at 37° 5' N. Lat.,) on sounding were found to have black sandground, at a depth of from 40 lo 36 fathoms? According to this observation the Tree point must lie at 37° 1' N. Lat. On our map it lies at 36° 52', therefore 9' more to the south. "About 6 miles from this point the high land begins to rise towards the North? There is The Eugged Point, also called Cape deKennis, because Vries cruised for six days off this point while waiting for the yacht Breskens. Observing this cape on May 25th . within a distance of 4 miles from the land S. W. by S., and the most northern land that could VRIES, KING AND THE JAPANESE MAPS. 21 be seen (Karasu, saki on the Japanese maps) N. W. by N, Vries found himself at a latitude by account of 37° 39' N. According to our map he must have been at 37° 32' N.Lat., which only gives a difference of 7' for the latitude of this Cape. According to Vries there fore Cape de Kennis lies at 37° 11' and on our map at 37° 4' ; on Jansson's however at 37° 22' N.Lat. On noon of the 26ttt May, having Cape de Kennis at a distance of about 7 miles W. >/2 S., Vries found himself by observation at 37° 20' N. Lat. According to this observation however the above named cape would be at 37° 16' N. Lat., which agrees in a remarkable manner with the latitude, afterwards taken by Capt. King, of 37° 15' N. The latitude given by Broughton on his original map agrees perfectly with that on our map. The depth leaded off Cape de Kennis during the cruise, offers the following result. At a distance of from 2 to 3 miles, from 25 to 40 fathoms oozy black sandground, at 4 to 5 miles distance, from 45 to 95 fathoms oozy black sandground, but could however bring none up. On the map of Jansson and on the map of "Gedaene Ontdeckinghe onder den Commandeur Marten Gerritsen Fries, A0. 1643," * we find a point called "Roock hoeck" (Smoke Point) , which is however not mentioned in the Log. Smoke point is doubtless the most northern land seen on the 25 May to the N. W. by N. and named Karas'no saki (i. e. Eaven Cape) on the Japanese maps "A point to the north of us which was high land., but ran down low to the water? The coast stretches out * Von Siebolu, Atlas von Land- und Seekarlen, N° II. 22 LATIT. AND SOUNDINGS OF SMOKE POINT. S. and N. Sounding on the 27th May, this point S. W. and the most northerly land N.N.W., Vries found himself at the lat. by account of 37° 50' N, so that the latitude of the Smoke point would be 37° 42', which perfectly agrees with Jansson's map and only offers a difference with our map of — 3'. "There was here land with white spots with some small sandhills; about two miles from land we had a depth of from 19 to 20 fathoms, shingle and coarse sandgrotind; here the bottom was abruptly unequal in depth. The pro montory is sand-hill ground, but else high land, in some places double. The land to the North seemed to begin to form a bay. JFe learned that the stream here runs backwards and fonvards along the shore? The change of the bottom , which was before oozy and black sand and here shingle and coarse sandground, proves that on the 27* May Vries was at about 3 miles distance from Smoke point, where a large river, the Tamano gawa, throws itself into the sea, and carries a quantity of black gravel with it. The low Sand point is also but once mentioned in the Log, viz. on the 31st ]\|ay j at noon , where Vries found himself at 38° N.Lat., within a distance of 7 or 8 miles from it, in from 70 to 75 fathoms. That point is marked on Yries's and Jansson's map at about 38° 1 0' N. Lat. The place however where Vries threw out the bow-anchor on the 29tb-May, in 29 fathoms of shingle bottom, and where at noon he was by account at 38° and 4 miles from shore, is marked by a small anchor; it is to the S. E. of The Low Sand point, named Ara fama, (desert strand) on the Japanese maps. One of the largest rivers THE NAVIGATION OF THE E. COAST OF NIPPON. 25 san, 2 or 3 miles from there, Vries observed the stream running to the south. Broughton also observed (7th and 8th September 1797) along the east coast of Nippon at 39° 55' to 40° 44' N. L. a strong S. and S.W. stream. This stream Vries fell in with at 37° 39', at a distance of 4 miles from the coast, and declared it to be the cause of the exceedingly hollow sea, "because the stream ran against tlie wind (from S. S. B.)" The Ja panese stream , the already mentioned Kuro shoo or black sea stream, seems to break its strength against the great east point of Nippon , Cape Daihd saki , and then to run along Cape de Kennis more to the N.E. Be sides its velocity and direction , which cannot escape the seaman's notice, the course of this stream is charac terised, during the colder seasons and in higher lati tudes, by the thick mist which covers it in the morn ing and evening. As far as to nearly 38° N.Lat., Vries often complains of "fearfully dark mist? whilst more northerly he was favoured with very fine weather. It can therefore be accepted as a law of this warm stream, that its influence does not extend farther along the east coast of Nippon than to 88° N.Lat., and that a cold stream rushes in between that and the coast which, from the South coast of Jezo, and pos sibly from the straits of Tsungar, where from this ca nal narrowing to 12 English miles the passage of all that water is prevented-, it falls off and runs South. That it is more or less exposed to the influence of variable winds is of course, and its strength seems gradually to break itself as it were against that of the warm stream, though both streams flow on per fectly distinguishable. Eor centuries the boundary line CAPE DE GOEREE AND GOEREE CANAL. 27 pon, called Kuro saki (the black cape) , which according to Sakusajemon lies at 39° 56' N. Lat. and 142° 10' E. Long., according to Broughton's original map 20' more to. the east, and according to von Krusenstern's cal culation 10'. We are of opinion to give the preference to the longitude of Vries now that we are acquainted with his Log, and suppose that, on the Japanese maps , Cape Kuro saki is placed too far from Tako fama at which is the so called harbour of Nabo or Nambu. The harbour of Nabo, to which the Japanese fishermen offered to bring Vries, is that of Mijako; and that of Schay is that of Kuzi (called also Kuziwoka). The for mer is 38 Ei from the harbour of Dezima near cape Kinkwasan, and the latter lies 20 Ei to the north of that oi Mijako. Both these harbours and one still 20 Ei more to the north, near the north east point, are the three principal harbours of the most northerly part of the east coast of Nippon, belonging to the district of Nambu : whence Nabo or Nambu *. "A large canal, stretching S.S. W.,runs very deep inland, by which as far as we co-uld see, one could sail quite up from the sea" was named Foert van Goeree (canal of Goeree). It is the capacious entrance to the harbour of Mijako, marked on the (too small) maps of Broughton and King as Port and Cape Nambu. The description of the en trance given by King agrees with the Japanese map of it. It is formed by two points of land , of which the * We have already shown in our Geschichte der Entdeckungen , that it was close to this harbour, and probably in the gulf of Komoto, that the Yacht Breskens fell and that Capt. Schaep was taken prisoner. Comp. p. 100. Remark 20. CAPE SIRIJASAKI AND CAPE TORIWISAKl. 29 the name of Cape de Fries in our map, while we have preserved the name of Pointe Nprd (King), given by von Krusenstern to Cape Tane isti. Along this coast, up to about 40° 23' N.Lat., at a distance of from 4 to 5 miles, one finds from 72 to 100 fathoms of gray sandground. Cape Sirijasaki,or North-East point (P.Nord-Fsl, Krusenstern). This cape remained unknown to the Dutch navigator Vries and the English Capt. King. On the maps of the 17tn cent., projected on original Japanese maps, we find the northern part of Nippon bounded by outlines which make this cape of easy recognition Eor its geographical position however we are indebted to Broughton, who sailed round that promontory on the 9th of August 1797, determined it more accurately on the 25th of the same month and named it Cape Nambu. On his original map Cape Nambu, is at 41° 15' N. Lat., and 141° 30' E. Long. Von Krusenstern rec koned the position ofthis cape at 41° 22' 45" N.Lat. and 141° 30' E. Long, and Sakusajemon at 41° 25' N.Lat. and 141° 46' E. Long. On the map of Hhe Kuril Islands according to v. Krusenstern, v. Siebolda^f? Broughton", published in 1856 by the hydrographic office of the Ad miralty in London, von Krusenstern's calculation has been retained. Close to it lie rocks and a small island Rakosima, i.e. Seal island. On the 5th of June Vries was off this place and saw "many seals and much drift? It gradually deepened here from 70 to 100 fathoms gray sandbottom. Cape Toriwisaki. (The NorthPoint of Nippon, Broughton). The geographical position of this cape we also owe to Broughton : "a low flat point situated in the 30 BAY OF AWOMORI AND THE ADJOINING COAST. latitude 41° 31' N. and 140° 50' F. of Greenwich? According to Sakusajemon however it lies 3' more north and 20' more east, and on the map of the Admiralty on the same lat. as Broughton, but 8' more to the east. This cape also ends in a small island named • Benten, dedicated to the goddess Ben zai ten, a pro tectress against sea-monsters , and in a group of rocks which show themselves above water like needles. ' Between cape Sirijasaki and Toriwisaki the coast forms a deep bay , in which is the harbour of Ohobata, 20 Ei from the harbour of Kuzi on the east coast. Ear- ther to the west„near Ohoai is another small harbour for ships sailing to the bay and harbour of Awomori, reckoned at 23 Ei distance. Near cape Toriwisaki the coast takes a S. Westerly direction and afterwards a more southerly,. and then runs by cape Kuso domari to the E. N. E, ; and : thin northernmost extremity oi Nippon takes the shape of a small peninsula as it were, where Jakejama, an extinct volcano, rises in the midst of small conical mountains to the height of 3200 feet. With the opposite N. Wes-; tern extremity, of which the northern points are named Tatsupisaki and Takonosaki, this peninsula forms the entrance, which is about 2 miles wide, to the bay of Awomori, covering a space of from 5 to 6 ? miles, and which in time can become of importance for na vigation. Cape Tatsupisaki or Cape Tsugar, which ac cording to von Krusenstern is situated in the latitude of 41° 16' 20" N. and 140° 30' E.Long., forms, with the opposite Cape Tadeisi or Cape Matsmai on Jezo (situated in the lat. 41°30'N. and 139° 57' E. Long.) the wes tern entrance to the straits of Tsugar, while cape Sirija saki and the opposite Cape Jesan, on Jezo (according HOW TO SAIL INTO THE HARBOUR OF IIAK0TADE. 31 to Broughton in the lat. 41° 49' 20" N. and 141° 20' E. Long), forms the eastern entrance to this strait, called on Japan Kukinoseto. We have gone into this geographical digression to point out more particularly the course along the east coast up to the North point of Nippon, first na vigated by Vries, and that up to the harbour of Hakotade on Jezo, which since the 31 March 1854 is open to all the maritime powers that have made a treaty with Japan. The bay of Hakotade is situated N. W. % W. , at a distance of 45 Engl, miles from cape Sirijasaki on Nippon. Off tills point and having passed the rocks projecting from this cape to the East and North sides, we see the capes oiJezan and Siiookubi, with the high land of Jezo and the North cape oi Nippon (Toriwisaki). One must first steer on Cape Jezan and then, sounding Cape Toriivi west, on Cape Siwokubi. The latter is situated in the latitude of 41° 49' 22" N. and 140° 47' 45" E. Long. The stream which runs into the strait to the W. with a velocity of 5' per hour, is strongest in the middle of the strait, namely between cape Siiookubi and Toriwisaki , where, at the narrowest, the strait is from 10 to 12 Eng. miles. Japanese vessels sailing to the harbour of Ohobata go therefore close to Cape Si rijasaki, and hug the shore where the stream is less felt. The Japanese also report that at Toriwisaki it runs round close to the coast of Nippon W. by S. and. S.W., which may be regarded as a backstream of the mass of water which cannot stream through the narrow passage between Siicokuwi and Toriwisaki. The north coast of Nippon is however cliffy, and in the N.N. W 32 HOW TO SAIL INTO THE HARBOUR OF HAKOTADE. of island Benten there are dangerous breakers. Is is not advisable to run into the straits in misty weather or by night. Steamships can easily keep themselves at the entrance, with the head in sea till they have an op portunity of running in. Pushing over from the North point of Japan to Cape Jerimo on Jezo, the Castricum leaded from 72 to 100 fathoms ordinary sand bottom; then there was no bot tom and at a distance of 4 miles N. from this pro jecting point, again 50 fathoms sandground. This ob servation may serve as a standard of the depth of the E. entrance of the straits of Tsugar. In the middle of the straits one finds from 50 to 130 fathoms. When point Siwokubi (12'E.S. E. y2 E. from the town oi Ha kotade) is passed, one can see the masts of the ships at anchor in the harbour, rising above a low isthmus. One must now steer by that. Eor sailing into the har bour, in clear weather, the Komagatake or Saddle- mountain (3169 feet high) serves as landmark. After (at the distance of 1 Eng. mile, in order to avoid the calm under the low shore) having sailed round the promontory (1136 feet high) united to the E. part of the bay by a low isthmus, on the N. E. side of which is situated the town of Hakotade, steer for the sharp peak of the Komagataki, bearing N., till the E. peak of the Saddle, bearing N.E. by N., opens to the westward of the round knob on the side of the moun tain *, then steer overjxom N. to E. till you get the middle of the sandhill on the isthmus S. E. by E. 3A E. * Sailing-directions for Hakotadi, by Lieut. Wm. L. Maury, in Hawks' Narrative, p. 691. DISCOVERY OF JEZO. 33 By so doing one avoids a shoal running out from the West end of the town for 2/s of a mile in a N. N. W. direction. Then bring the sand-hill larboard , and run on till the West point of the town bears S. W. % W. , where the best anchorage is found at from 5% to 6 fathoms. Smaller ships can approach close to the town, to within Vi mile of point Tsuki. Should the Peak on the Saddle not be distinguishable on account of mist or cloudy weather, steer as has been said, after passing the promontory, N.E. % E. till the sand hill opens in the given direction. In case of contrary winds there is good anchorage in the outer roads, in from 25 to 12 fathoms. The depth at the mouth of the bay is about 30 fathoms and gradually shoals up to 6 and less. Hakotade (the mouth of the river Ka- mela) is situated at lat. 41° 49' 22" N., and 140° 47' 45' E. long. The deviation of the compass is 4°30'W. High water at new and full moon 5 o'clock. IV. The Discovery of the Land of Jezo. Erom the supposed "Northern point of Japan", Vries steered N. N. E., and at noon of June 7th was at long. 162° 1' E. from Teneriffe (according to our cor rection 143° 39' 36" E. from Gr.), and at the lat. of 41° 24' N. * Erom there up to 40° 36' N. Lat. one * Along the east coast of Nippon we have not noticed the longitude . of Vries , because it is always accurately marked in the Journal during this voyage along the Japanese coast. We have however remarked that the guessed longitude of the Island Falsisjo must be corrected 3 CABBKLJAUS POINT. JIOUTH OF THE USIBETS. 35 Cabbeljaus or Cod's point, and is probably the low extremity close to Tobui in the river Monbets, where the high land declines. Tobui is situated 35' more to the north and 18' more to the east than Saruru, the latitude of which the court-astronomers have determined at 42° 7' N. and the long, at 143° 56' E. This last named place is a Japanese post, and possibly one could anchor at the mouth of the river. This place has been visited by Japanese ships for above a century. I merely remark this because it is said in the Log: "Further up the coast has many bays, but no anchorage where one can be protected against the sea? Coming to anchor on the 15th of June, in 15 fathoms shingle bottom, the longitude was reckoned at noon to be 42° 44' N. and the S. E. point of Jezo 12 miles S. W. by S.;and sounding a low point (Cab beljaus point) 6 miles S. W. by W., "we had another point to the N.B. Vz E. 6 or 7 miles from us (Gout- sioer) , where a river seemed to run as far as we could see; we also saio land B. by N? Vries was therefore at a distance of & mile from the considerable village of Tokatsi (Tocaptie, Vries), where the river Usibets, one of the largest on the east coast of Jezo, falls into the sea, and the coast retires in a low gulf. On the original map of Vries* are the words: "Off this place (Tocaptie) the first vessel from this land came on board, in it two men and a boy having much silver about them , and pointing io the mountains where there was abundance of silver? This first meeting * Von Siebold, Atlas von Land- und Seekarten, N" 11. E 3* 36 EARLIEST NOTICES RESPECTING THE HAIRY KUR1LS. with the natives of Jezo is recounted at greater length in the Log. With the exception of some former com munications respecting this remarkable people, which we find in the letters of the Christian missionaries of the 16tn and 17th cent.,* and some particulars on the same subject published by the fellow-travellers of Vries + inthe 17th cent, the description ofthis people, as also of their manners and customs, as introduced into, the Log in several places, is among the' most important contributions we have obtained from Euro pean navigation respecting this tribe, now known under the name of Ainoes or the Hairy Kurils. In order _ however not to interrupt our geo-hydrographic illustrations at every moment, we wall dedicate a separate chapter to the Ainoes at the end ofthis essay. The Bay of Tokatsi derives its name from the village at the northern mouth of the delta-form mouth of the river Usibets, at the lat. of 42° 39' N. and 144° 22' E. The shore is low , and to the south of Tokatsy marshy ; there are several lakes there, the largest of which is Jeuto. The Eiver and the point of Kusuri. About 33' to the N.E. of Tokatsi, the Kusuri (Goutsioer, Vries) runs into the sea and the low territory through which it passes appears as an opening in the land; it was also observed by Broughton and marked upon * Rerum a Societate Jesu in Oriente gestarum Volumen, Coloniae. 1574 in 8o p. 426. NicolaesWitsen, Noord-Oost Tartarije, Ueel II, pag. 57. "Bericht aegens het rijk Jesso , volgens zekeren brief van den vader Hieronymus de Angelis, geschreven in 'tjare 1622. t Beschrijvinge van het Eylandt Eso soo alst eerst in 'tselvige jaar door het schip Castricum bezeylt is. Tot Amsterdam 1646. Ver- gelijk 00k N. Witsen, Deel II, pag. 50. THE KUSURI AND ITS SOURCES. 37 his map. This river is the largest on the East coast of Jezo, and consists of the union of two arms, the easterly of which (bearing the name of Kusuri) rises in an inland lake at the foot of mount Olosja, the western out of an inland lake at the foot of mount Akaniaui thence called Akanibets (bets is river, brook). Both these high peaks belong to the chain , the S. W. part of which, according to Jansson's map, Vries called "de Blaauwe berg" (Blue mountain) , and the N. E. extremity "Batavitis bergh? Broughton also mentions the former under the name of Peaked Hill, and took longitude 42° 47' N that peak N. 9° E. and the opening in the land (the mouth of the Kusuri) N. 21° E. , at a distance of 12 or 13 Engl, miles. The country watered by the Kusuri is inhabited by the Ainoes, who have opened a way along the two arms of that river to the inland lakes of Kusuri and Akani, and thence along the rivers Sjaribets and Ikutsinakots to the north coast of Jezo. A few English miles to the east of the estuary and of the Kusuri projects a point to which we have given the name of Cape Kusuri. This cape, with the above mentioned opening, forms a bay. where without doubt ships can find a good anchorage, shelter ing them against the N. E. and E. winds. This pari of the coast, as yet un visited by any European navi gator, we particularly recommend to their attention, and have therefore given a more detailed description of it, according to Japanese maps and accounts. Erom his anchorage off Tokatsi, Vries steered East to within a distance of about 50 English miles. Find ing no land there, he changed his course N.E. and afterwards N. to get sight of land. At noon of the 38 POSITION OF CAPE SERIBA. ll«i of June, Vries was at the latitude of 43° 10'N., 2% miles from land, in 27 fathoms black sand sound ings. Off this place three points of the East coast important for navigation were determined; W. by S. 6 miles distant Cape Seriba (Santanel, Vries) forming the south extremity of the entrance to Bay de Goede Hoop; then N.E. 4 or Smiles distant, Cape de Mans- hooft (Maris head), and W. by N. % N. a river, the Hokirarubets , near Biwase. He also observed the little islands of Fujutar and Kitafu, and an island at the entrance of the bay de Goede Hoop, named Daikok- sima by the Japanese, Horomosiri by the Anoes, and Fan der Lyns eylant by Vries himself. Cape Seriba (Santanel, Vries) forms the S. shore , and Cape Harasan (Caep Maetsuyker) the None, of the entrance to the bay of Goede Hoop, before which lies a small island called , by the Japanese , Daikoksima (the. island of the god of wealth) and by Vries, after his return to this bay, van der Lyris island. This island is united with the N. shore by a line of cliffs and from the S. shore a rocky reef rises above water 1 % mile E. S. E. in sea. Cape Seriba lies 8' more S. and 5' more W. than Atkesi or Akkes, the principal place in the bay, which is placed by the court-astro nomer at a latitude of 43° 2' N. and 145° 34' 27" E. long. On Broughton's original map the entrance, with the little island in front and some rocks, is cursorily marked at 43° N. lat. and 144° 36' E. long. According to Vries it should be placed at 43° 5' N. lat. Bay de Goede Hoop (Bay of Good Hope) deserves this name given to it by one of our renowned navi gators, who refreshed and repaired there from 16tn of DANGEROUS CLIFFS OFF CAPE DE MANSIIOOFD. 43 but the situation and distance of the Iruri isles from the coast is still doubtful. According to the map of Mogami Toknai* andthe original map of Broughton t, and also according to an old MS. map communicated to us by a Japanese physician , Eukutsi GensokS, who was long resident on Jezo, they lie close to cape Usu, which we consider to be the Caep de Manshooft of Vries. There are two larger and one smaller named respectively Iruri, Moiruru and Kinasitomari. On Laxmann's plan these islands (they are there named Brori) also lie to the east of a promontory; and on his map is marked the name Otishi (Olssi), which all maps place close to cape Usu. On Vries's sketch ** several small islands are to be seen, and in the Log is said: "Here (Caep de Manshooft N. JF. by JF. 2 miles from us and in 25 fathoms black sand ground) all is bad land, not high, without mountains; saw then N. JF.by W. from us a reef with heavy breakers, and lay about a mile from land, and to the N. B. from Caep de Manshooft lay a fiat island with three small mounts ; the N. end of the island N. N. E. 3 miles from us? The reef is marked exactly the same in Laxman's plan, and it is thus confirmed that cape Usu is Cape de Manshooft of Vries. On Sakusaje- * Von Siebold's Atlas von Land- und Seekarten. N°. 2. A. f Catalogns librornm ac manoscriptorum Japonicorum a Ph. Fr. de Siebold collectornm. Lugduni-Batavorum 1845. N°. 177- Iszono dsu , Mogani Toknai geograpbi Jap. illustrissimi mappae geographicae quinque. $ Catalogns librorum et manuscriptorum Japanicorum N°. 178. Maisumae Jezono dzu est viro tabula geogr. exhibens insulam Jezo cuius caput est Maisumae." ** N. Witsen, Vol. II, pag. 65. A. 4-4 THE STRAITS OF JEZO. mons map it lies at 43° 11' N. lat., and 146° 14' E. long. , and according to the soundings taken on board the Castricum, August 14*, is at lat. 43° 16' N., and is very clearly described : "gave that cape the name of Cape de Manshooft, because it appears like a head? Erom this cape the coast projects N.E. and runs out in a narrow, low tongue, 50 minutes long, Cape Noss- iam, — named Cape Broughton by von Krusenstern, and placed by him at 43° 38' 30" N. L. and 146° 7' 30" E. Neither Vries nor Broughton have however acknow ledged this promontory as the E. extremity of Jezo, or known that a strait exists to the W. of this point, di viding the island oi Jezo from Kunasiri, the most sou therly of the Knrils. The island of "Kunaschir" * , divi ded by a strait from Jezo, is indeed marked on the map of the imperial Academy at St. Petersburg, pub lished 1758, probably according to the observations of Spangberg and Walton ; the discovery of this strait must however be adjudged to Laxmann (1 792). His map howe ver remained among the archives of Kamschatka till the beginning ofthe present century. To the renowned admi ral Golownin and his deliverer from the Japanese prison , Admiral Eicord , we are indebted for a better knowledge of this strait , to which von Krusenstern gave the name of Straits of Jezo. Before leaving the east coast oiJezo with Vries , we must here remark that von Krusenstern has by mistake marked Bay de Goede Hoop twice on his map of Jezo , once under the name of Bay de Goede Hoop, according to Jansson's map, again under that * Nouvelle carte des decouvertes faites par de vaisseaux Russes etc. in Midler's Decouvertes etc. 46 PEAK ANTHONY, AN IMPORTANT LANDMARK. latitude of 43° 26' N. communicated by Nicolaes Wit- sen,'— -Barbaren island (Westpoint) N. W. 2/s W. 2 miles, Gebroocken island N. W % N. 3 miles. The ob servations made on the 13*h June, at the lat. 43° 28' N. 1 mile S. W. of the Barbaren island, while riding at anchor, may also serve to determine the. position of these^ islands. Caep de Manshooft. W. by N. 3 miles, the island with three . small mountains N. W. % N. 2 miles, a large reef N. by W. % W. 1 mile, N. W. %N. 3 miles, a low island, N.N. W. % N. the Peak and N.E. by N. y2 E. a flat island 1 mile, the Barbaren island. Also a group of cliffs, some above some under water, E. by N. 1 mile. "Above-said islands are 1 , 1 % to 2 miles long , have many small islets and cliffs lying close to them; behind these islands, on the continent (the island Ku- nasiri) is an easily recognisable rock with a notch at ihe top (Peak Anthony) standing quite alone? This mountain, which we shall speak of by and by , is here an important landmark, because it can be seen 20 miles out at sea. The islands and rocks, ten of which are named on Sakusajemon's map,t and .on Toknai's map § 12 large and small islands, and more * N. Witsen, Vol. II. p. 65. E. f According to Sakusajemon's map, these isles and rocks are named according to their N."E. direction: SisjS Vtsuki, JJciroro , Juru, Harukaru , Sibots, Imukusibe , Taraku, Itasibels and Kahiof. $ According to Toknai's map the islands are named after their size : SisjS, Sibjuts, Taraku, Juru, Akiroro, Harukaru, Onekinasi, To- mari , Moimosiri , Vtsuki , Masirika , Honkinasi iomari and Monrika. Tbe rocks and cliffs we will pass over, only remarking that onsiri means island in the Aino language, and iomari residence or village, and that to all these names mosiri (pronounced in Russian muschir)U DA.MiBRoUS CLIFFS OFF TIIE COAST. 49 and the place that Hhese inhabitants named Takolekan and Rackokan, and which they pointed out as lying N. E. by N? is the bay of Sjakolan or Malakotan, situated on the N. W. coast. According to Toknai's map there are on Sikotan more than 20 hamlets of the Aino's, and many bays into which small rivers run and where Japanese ships come to anchor. Eound about lie many little islands and rocks, and to the S. W. ZA W. of the island, at a distance of from 9 to 10 English miles, a group of five low isles, named Kabiof according to Sakusajemon and according to Toknai Mosirika, and surrounded by rocks and cliffs. Golownin saw four of them and sailed close past. They are also given on Vries's map. There appear besides to be many cliffs and dangers round about these islands. The Island of Kunasiri (Kunaschir, Euss.), on the above mentioned map of 1758 of the Imperial Academy of Science at St. Petersburg, has again gra dually disappeared. Laperouse, after the discovery of the strait which immortalised his name, steered, August 1787, N E- along the neighbouring island oiJeterop, without however touching the N. E. coast of the sup posed "Land of Bso? Broughton also considered JFalvisch Bay as the E. coast of Jezo. The discove ries of Laxmann remained unkuown, and thus, after the return of Golownin from his Japanese imprison ment at Matsmae, von Krusenstern became acquainted with the discoveries of this worthy navigator and was enabled to show the island of Kunaschir and the strait which separates it from Jezo (straits of Jezo) THE HOOP. TEPELRERCII VOLCANO. 51 for us, by which the direction and form of the hieh mountain which characterises the N. E. part of this island, is made clear. The "recognizable mountain with a notch at the top ? lying alone , which was seen on the 13th of June on the main-land, is Mount Tsinna or Tjosinobori, the highest on the S. part of Kunasiri, and the "high mountain with a peak" observed on the 14* June at the lat. 43° 25', to the N. W. by N. at a distance of at least 20 miles, is the volcano Tsjatsja noburi, to which Vries gave the name of "Pieck Antony? (after Antony van Diemen, governor -general of Dutch India in the years 1636 — 1645) and which the mate Coen names the "Hooge Tepelberch" (high Nipplemounl) , a literal translation of the Aino name, meaning Tsjatsja breast and Nolori high mountain, peak. Toknai says this volcano is still active and is the highest in the island. Erom a sketch of that vol cano the Tepel (Nipple) is recognizable as a side erup tion which has gradually become higher in the form of a skittle, a so called lateral eruption being also visible on the side of the mountain.* As this peak is very recognizable and can be seen 20 miles out at sea, its geographical position is of the utmost impor tance for navigation. ' According to the observations of Golownin and Eicord it is at a latitude of 44° 31' N. and 145° 46' E. Long. , and on Broughton's original * It seems that the summit or crater of that volcano had taken another form in 1796. "In the bearing of the peaked hill ihe coast formed a bay, with a fine sandy beach; and the mountain, which in this point of view formed a saddle hill, presented a very magni ficent appearance from its great height and extensive to?." Broughton, • Voyage of Discovery , p. 116. 4* 52 RESPECTIVE SITUATIONS OF KUNASIRI AND STAETENLANT. map at 44° 20' N.Lat. and 146° 10' E. Long. Accord ing to Vries, who observed the "JF. point or lower point ofthe Tepelberch? at noon of the 11th of July at a lat. of 44° 43' N. S. by W. % W. 2 miles distant, that point must be at 44° 36', and the "Tepelberch", which according to Sakusajemon's map lies 10' more S., at 44° 26', which agrees with the average observation of these navigators. If we reckon the latitude of the Peak according to the observations of the Court astrono mer at Nisibets, in Laxmann's bay, where this Japa nese fort is placed, at 43° 23' W. and the peak 1° 6' more N., we shall find that of 44° 29' W., and thus a result which inspires us the greatest confidence in the observations taken on board the Castricum. To the N. W. by W., at about 8' distance lies a moun tain-chain forming a promontory, the N. extremity of Kunasiri, and named by Vries "Maria berch" This point (Cape Rewausi) is characterised by a small is land, Kawarsjo, lying just before it, and by white patches. The observations made on the lltl] July are too important not to be repeated here. "As then lay the rugged mountain (the S. promontory of the "Stae- terilanf (Jeierop) ) E. by S. % S. 10 miles, and the point of Eso, off which Fossen island lies, lay S. E. % E. 6 miles from, us , and tlie JF. point or declining point of the Tepelberg S. by W % JF. 2 miles from us? The configuration also of the west side of "Stae- terilant at 44° 53', is very serviceable in determining the respective situations of Kunasiri and the Staeten- lanl, and of the W. entrance to the strait, dividing the two, the Canael de Pieeo or Antony van Diemen. The observations relative to it are: "the Croonberch DESCRIPTION OF VOSSEN ISLAND. 53 E. N. E. 6 miles, the rugged mountain E. S. E. % E. 4 miles (roads of Statenlanf), the Fossen island 3 miles (at the east point of Kunasiri) and the Maria bergh W. by S. % S. 4 or 5 miles (W. point of Ku nasiri). Of the Fossen island, visited by Coen on the 7* of July, it is said: "On this island, which was small and connected to the continent by reef cliffs, one could walk over to the continent of Eso al low water. We saw many red foxes t running about on the island and gave it the name of Fossen island. From this Fossen island a reef of cliffs stretches out N. N. B. in sea for more than a mile Jrom shore, and makes said canal very dangerous indeed. This reef was broken, in some places the cliffs lying above water; there was a rapid stream to the East? Off this island they endeavoured to examine "the capabi lities of this canal? "Could not see any dirt such as works off from Fossen island, saw the Caep de Canael (N. E. point of Sikotan) S. S. E. from us , shrouded in mist. Fossen island lay about 3% miles W. from the rugged mountain of the Staelerilant, so that this Canal is about 3 miles wide? According to the observations of Golownin and Eicord, Antony van Dieinen's strait is 16' broad and according to Broughton's original map 20'. (We have here given this strait its true name, but remark at the same time that there is another Diemeris Straits to the south of Japan). Vries went ashore with his * N. Witsen, p. 65. N. f The red fox, named Furelsup by the Ainoes, is the fire- fox of the Kamtchadales , and the ordinary variety all about these regions. 54 CURIOUS DISCOVERY OF TWO CROSSES. crew and held communication with the natives (Ainoes). As he has given no name to this large bay where the Castricum anchored , and which is 15 English miles wide, from cape Moimoio to Reioausi , and about 5 deep, we will name it the Crossbay , for remarkably enough two wooden crosses were discovered here. "One of our men found a wooden cross standing, brought it to the strand and showed it to the natives, who when they saw it appeared alarmed and motioned him to throw it into the water; those even who had touched this wooden cross might not approach them, till they had first washed their hands, and then they might. Another such cross stood at the commencement of the forest? Doubtless these were Christian monuments and pro bably Christian tombs. Christianity was carried over to Jezo (Matsmae) from Japan as early as 1622, and as, since 1639, the Christian creed was forbidden on penalty of death, they were probably converted Japa nese or Ainoes who had fled thither and died. Among the Ainoes every thing that touches a corpse or anything belonging to it is regarded as unclean, whence the horror of the natives for these crosses. Probably they also know by tradition of that severe edict and the Christian persecutions. Christianity had not as yet found any other way to that part of the world than over Japan, for it was not till the year 1689 that the first news of the existence of Kamtschalka reached Russia, and in 1697 some Cossacks were the first to found a fort (Ostroeh) on the Kamtschalka river. The island of Kunasiri is 70 English miles long, stretching N. E. by N. and W. by S., very narrow from 5 to 10 English miles, and united by a tongue GOOD ANCHORAGES. 55 of land but a few miles broad , about the middle near cape Onnenots, where the land is low and the E. coast appears as a deep curve, named by Vries JFalvis Bay, because they "here saw many whales? On the N. and S. parts of this coast there are however some bays which ofler a good anchorage. That of Onnebels on the N. coast is probably the "bay where one is safe from all winds?* and that of Furuka on tlie isthmus and Tobuts or Tobels on the S. coast are vi'ell deserving of notice as anchoring places for whalers. The latter is connected by a river with a large inland lake, whence the name To (lake) and bets (river). This lake which receives its supply of fresh water from the "high interior mostly covered with snow on the summits? as seen by Vries, must contain abundance of fresh-water fish, and ofler excellent opportunity for the salmon in the spawning season, (here in the months of July and August). There is also such a lake on the S. W. coast , and at Sasak (as also on the W. side of the tongue of Ikabanots) there is a good anchorage. The strait which separates Jezo to the south of Kunasiri we have given in our Atlas N°. 2 A., according to the excel lent map of Toknai; if to this be added the above named plan of the Baie des Traitres by Golownin and Laxmann's plan, we have given all the geo-hydrographical materials we possess up to the present day respecting this commercial route so important for the future. I will however add that there is a strong current here * Vries, "Gedaene Coursen" in von Siebold, Atlas N°. 11. E. The Commander however supposed that the Santberch belonged to the Lant van Eso, and that the bay was also defended from the E. and N. E. winds. 56 THE l-LAND OF JETEMOP OU ITURUP- at the W. entrance to the S. and at the exit round the E. Of the geological condition of this island we know nothing; precious metals will be to be found there; medicinal herbs, sorrel and stalks of a large screen plant, probably the edible Heracleum, were found in large quantities by the crew, and Coen speaks of firs fit for yards and masts , and of red foxes , otters , salmon, turbot, haddock, cod and other fish in abun dance. We have spoken at some length of this island because it was very nearly unknown, its very exis tence having been doubted as late as 1S20. * We take leave of it with the remark that on Golownin's map it is marked as the XXIst of the Kurils. The Island of Jeterop (Iturup, Euss.). Our renowned navigator almost circumnavigated this is land from June 13^ to July 4th, when he anchored at some miles from the S. extremity. It is entirely his discovery, on which he put the Dutch seal of pro perty by giving it the name of "Staetenlanf or "Slae- ten eylanf (States Island.) It is the largest of the Kurils, stretching in a N. E. and S. W. direction. f The N. E. point of this island , Cape Seworosi (Cape Vries) is determined by Golownin at 45° 38' 30" N. Lat. and 149° 14' E. Long., and the S. point, Cape * Z'isle de Sounaski ne se trouve pas dans la derniere edition (de 1820) des Cartes de VOcean Pacifique, par Arrowsmith. v. Kru senstern, Eecueil de memoires hydrographiques, p. 200. t Alas! the United Netherlands E. I. Company, that sent out the noble commodore to discover the Gold and Silver islands, never understood or valued the important results of his discovery of the Land of Eso and of the Stolen and Company's land — the JirsC Ca lifornia — because the gold and silver did not lay open on the ground. LAT. AND LONGIT. OF TIIE U.K. AND S. POINTS. 57 Tesiko (C. Eicord) at 44° 29' N. Lat. and 146° 34' Long. The latitude of Cape Vries * is the same on Jansson's map and according to Vries's observation of the 5*h August it should be 45°35'N, while that of cape Eicord, according to the observation taken July 4tn while at anchor off the Fossen island, comes to 44° 29' N.; on the map of Gedaene Coursen that point lies some minutes more S., at the latitude of 44° 25' N., as is also the case on Broughton's and Sakusajemon's maps. Besides these two points, so important in a geogra phical point of view, and which have been since deter mined by other European navigators, we are indebted to Vries for other important geo-hydrographic obser vations along the E. and W. coast of this island, which will increase in value if we can succeed in making them agree with and explaining them by the maps of Sakusajemon and Toknai and those of Broughton and other navigators. The soundings taken on the 13tn of June at the la titude of 44° 20' N. confirm the position of Peak An tony opposite the "rugged mountain? on the S. point of Jeterop, "which was above very rugged and looked like an island, and besides another high mountain, appearing with a double head from a cleft ;" "to the east appeared a high round mountain with its summit through a mist ," and of another "high flat rugged m.oun- * On the map of Jansson and on that of Vries "gedaene coursen," 'he N. E. point bears the name of Vries, and not the N. W. as Laperouse accepted and , following him , both von Krusenstern and Golownin. 58 THE MOUNTAINS SERVING AS LANDMARKS. lain, on which lo the W. end stood a mountain in shape like a farmers barn, (Boerenschuer) , and is also the highest of that chain? "From said mountain stretched somewhat lower land till in N. E. by N. and was the farthest land we could see; the barn- mountain lay nearest us and was about 10 miles dis tant. The chain appeared to be connected till the rugged mountain and as we could observe a canal ran round to the W. between tlie rugged mountain and the peak mountain? Peak Antony lay W. by N., the. tugged Mountain N. W. VW. "to the E? of the high round Mountain (Croonbergh) ; the Boerenschuerberch (Bam mountain) N. % W. All these mountains are on our Japanese maps. Peak Antony we know; the Rugged mountain forms the S. promontory (cape Ricord), the high mountain with a cleft is a mountain-chain which runs out on the W. coast near cape Moikesi, and the Croonberch is a high trachyte dome called Bussanobori , forming a far projecting promontory on the W. coast (Cape Ito- birikqwoi); and the Boerenschuerberch is also a conical mountain on the east coast between Kusiara and Tosi- moinols. The position of these mountains which serve as landmarks was confirmed by the observations of the 30*° June and 2°« July. During the 17*" and 18& of June Vries sailed along the E. coast of this island, steering N. N. E. and E. N. E. and sometimes had a glance of the tops covered with snow which rose high from Cape Noneisjo. These are Refunsiri, Helsirap, and Tokaruribe which project above all others. Possibly also one could see from here the summits of the oppo site conical mountains on the W. coast, the Hetono- THE BAY OF SEPPO (RAY OF SANA). 59 buri and Horosjunoburi. The "steep cliff like a pyra mid" is probably the island of Obkarusibeisjo which lies to the N. of "a steep point" (Cape Horaka) oppo site a rivulet. The "high mountains very sparkling from the snow" seen on the morning of 19tn June to the W., N. N. W. and afterwards seen N., are the high moun tains which surround the N. extremity of Staeten-is- land, and cape Seworosi (C. Fries) . running out to the N. E. and form the points Okkebets and Tosifuri in the N. Their names are: Sjusinobori, Isomattseno- bori, Kitettsenobori , and Sjokkonobori. Erom last named point the W. coast begins to bend in a deep curve, and afterwards runs out N W. in a high promontory. Of this curve or bay we have received a better knowledge from the already frequently mentioned Japanese maps ; it is dotted on Golownin's map and named the Bay of Sana. (The fort of Sjana or Sa?ia does not how ever lie in the bay, but to the S. of the promontory). It is 25 English miles wide and 10 deep, and ends in a lake named Seppo , and with low land , an isthmus of scarcely four Engl, miles broad. To the W. it oilers au anchorage screened from the wind. We have given it the name of Bay of Seppo, because that of Sana is inexact. The promontory consists of a mountain-chain with two summits of which the E. is the highest. This two-hilled mountain , which could be seen at a distance of 25 or 26 miles, wras named Cape de Trou by the Commander; it is the cape Ika- banots of Sakusajemon's map. On the 30tn June, lat. 45° 54' N. Cape de Trou lay E. by S. Vi S. 15 miles, and the Boerenschuer S. E. 15 or 16 miles, and at noon of the 2nd July at the lat. by accound 44° 56', the 60 GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION OF CAPE DE TROU Croonberch S. E. % S. 2% miles, the Gehackelde (Rugged) nountain in the S., the Boerenschuer E. S. E. Va S. Cape de Trou E. N. E. % N. There still remains to determine the geographical position of Cape de Trou, which appears still doubtful, although this coast has been examined by our navigator Vries, by Laperouse (August 18tD and 19th, 1787) and by Broughton (from 8th to ll*n Oct. 1796), and though this far projecting promontory is very accurately shown on the maps of Sa kusajemon and Toknai. By Laperouse it is placed at the lat. of 45° 39', which agrees with his observation of the 19th of August , when he was at a distance of 41' to the N. of that promontory, at 46° 20'. Broughton, who at noon of 9& Oct. was at 44° 31' 30" N. Lat., sounded the Peak S. 52° W. , aud the island of Siko tan S. 17° E., and saw high land from N. 48° E. to 61° E., which he regarded as an island; he steered N. E. to examine it. In the afternoon at a distance of 4 English miles he passed the Croonberch which he has admirably described, * and at sunset sounded this volcano S. 24° W., and the coast as far as he could see, N. 55° E. Stormy and foggy weather only allowed him a glimpse of the coast the next day, and "We were abreast of a hill which rose from the sea shore, with a steep ascent to a considerable elevation of a conical shape and evi dently volcanic. We passed within two miles of it, and plainly per ceived it covered with stones and cinders down to its base, as an eruption [had lately happened. Bound the crater it presented ragged and misshapen points and some small shrubs were growing on the S. W. side very low down. This abrupt hill was connected with the islands by a low isthmus, which receded from it on each side, so as to form circular bays; and the land continued low to some distance." Broughton, Voyage, page 117. EXAMINED AND DETERMINED. 61 the last land was discovered from S. 61° E. to S. 27° E. and "a low point" S. 8° W. This low point, which is placed on his original map at 45° 7', von Krusen stern supposed to be Cape de Trou, and gave the geographical position of the supposed Cape de Trou the preference to that of Laperouse and that of Vries according to Jaussen's map. Broughton who approached very close to that cape on 10* to ll* Oct., could not see it on account of the dense fog, and the land that he saw extending on the morning of the 12th from S. 5° W. to S. 22° E., and which he regarded as a separate island , was the N. W. end of Staaten island , to which Laperouse and his successor (as was said above) erro neously gave the name of Cape Fries. This was also confirmed next morning by his observations while in the middle of the N. entrance of Strait Tories. This di gression we have been obliged to make to prove that Cape de Trou lies farther to the N. than the great hy- drographer von Krusenstern supposed , * and in order to confirm the observation of Laperouse and that of our Dutch navigator. Supposing that the lat. of the sup posed cape Vries (our cape Okkebels) as given by Golownin, is correct, and as cape de Trou on Saku sajemon's map, where the configuration of the coast deserves all confidence, only differs 6' from cape Okkebels, the cape in question would lie at 45° 32' N, thus 6' more S. than as it is marked on Janssen's map; and according to Vries's observation on the 5th * Le cap Trou est place par 45° 35' (must be 39) sur la carte de Laperouse et par 45° 10' (must be 7') sui- celle de Broughton , la premiere latitude est certaiDemeut trop boreale." Secueil de memoires hydrographiques , p. 198. SOUNDINGS ALONG STAATEN ISLAND. 63 high promontories running far out and steep jutting points , there deep bays and mountain masses only joined by low tongues of land) — how it might be regarded as independant islands when seen from afar. This torn and broken island, narrow and more than 70 English miles long, gives us a clear idea of the subterranean powers which have thrown it up from the Ocean and of the force of the waves of the sea when lashed by the hurricane, as in the course of centuries they have washed out the rocks, hollowed the gulfs and bays, and covered the shore with sand through which rapid little rivers make themselves a way. Erom the coasts of this island consisting of such a succession of steep rocks and shallow bays and gulfs, the unequal depth near shore is easily explained, where according to the nature of the bottom we lead from 30 to 100 fathoms of black sand , shingle and stiff clay ("paalground"). Besides the Piramyda we find many small islands, rocks and cliffs spread about the coast, the position of which is but very imperfectly known. Eor these dangers one must keep a good look-out. With the exception of some shipwrecked sailors this island has not yet been visited by any European or other naturalists; of its Eauna and Elora we have as yet no scientific know ledge, its productions can only be partly deciphered from the communications of the Japanese as probably analogous with those oiJezo and Kamtschalka, its neigh bouring S. and N. countries. And yet — I repeat it — for more than two centuries this island has borne the very respectable Dutch name of the Staaten eilancl. Vries Strait and the Company 's-land (the island Urup). Sailing E. N. E. along the E. coast of 64 VRIES STRAIT AND THE COMPANY' S LAND. Staaten island, they saw on the 19* June, at the Lat. by account 45° 41' N, "a glimpse of land io W. and W. N. W. and then again it was covered loith mist? This was the high , snowcapped land oi"Cape de Fries," ca])e Okkebels and of the island Urup. Vries was then in the middle of the S. entrance of the strait which se parates Jeterop from Urup and which now bears his name. "Saw also about 5 hours after noon straight ahead to the N. a glimpse of a very high mountain which shone much with the snow? "found the depth of 30 fathoms stiff clay, directly after 46,47 fathoms and, at a short distance, again 50 fathoms " "drifted on at God's mercy io the N. JF., heard continually the land-sea and great rushing of water and much scream- *n9 °f cliff-mews? "Someivhat later in the day again got soundings in 50 fathoms, and cast anchor in 47 fathoms coarse sand bottom , let go our bower- anchor? "Then saio S. S. E. the tops of high moun tains, but could not see the feet, though they seemed to be close to us; heard continually a great rush of water. "About 2 or 3 hours after breakfast the mist cleared up, and then we saw that we had anchored not more than % mile from shore. Saw S. by W. 3 miles from us land, and N. E. by E. 5 or 6 miles from us the most northerly land we could discover. The noise of water toe saio teas occasioned by the rushing down of snowioater which fell down from several clefts in the rocks with great force. In many places the land was still covered with snow down to the water's edge; snoto lay especially deep on the mountain. Saw a high, round mountain full of snmc S. W. by S. .66 NAME OF C. LAPEROUSE G1VKN TO TIIE N. W. POINT. As repeatedly has been said, Laperouse took the N. W. extremity of Staaten island for Cape de Fries, and also marked it with that name on his map. On our map of Jezo and the Kurils we have restored the name Cape de Fries to its right place, and we will give the N. W. extremity, now nameless, that of Cape de La perouse, doing in this manner homage to the great but unfortunate French navigator, who felt so much respect for the Dutch navigators.* Laperouse was also the first who found this strait after Vries (Aug. 20* 1787). The anchorage was found to be at the lat. 46° 6'N. and 146° 48' 36" E. from Greenw. , which with the above named correction of -f- 3° would be 149° 48' E. from. Greenw., and agree pretty accurately with the observations of Golownin, who determined the geogra phical position of Cape van der Lijn , which lies about 3 miles S. by W. of the anchorage, at 45° 39' N lat. and 149° 34' E. Long. "Between the ship and the shore found (Coen) a rising bottom, 'A mile from shore 30 fathoms sandbottom , a musket-shot from land 1 9 fa thoms stony bottom? "Had much bad water here" and "lay here surrounded by many dangers." No better anchorage could however be found; but coming on shore they found a good place for fetching water. Spring appeared to be just beginning here (June 20*), the alder-trees began to bud , the herbs t to grow and * La navigation du capitaine TJries (Vries) est la plus exacte qui ait pu Stre faite dans un temps, ou les methodes d'observation etaient tresgrossieres. , t Among others "sorrel, just ihe tame as grows ai home." Here on shore grow leaves with thick hollow stems, which are altogether VRIES LANDS AND TAKES POSSESSION. 67 blossom and the lark sang delightfully. Some red foxes and one snow-white one were seen; there were also some traces of human beings, such as a hut and a skeleton, but no inhabitants. The high mountain where earth was found "which seemed very mineral and to contain silver? Vries named the Mineraelberch , and took possession of that land (which he thought to be an island near the coast 9 fathoms long. These leaves are found floating in quantities in sea, being closely interwoven; under these long leaved weeds are seals by thousands , as also lammetjes and divers." It seems exaggerated and incredible to speak of leaves 50 feet long ; and yet it is true. This weed can be no other than the Fucus esculenlus Lin. , which is also found on the shores of Jezo and is full 50 feet long and one broad. It frequently grows close to the shore and is to be found everywhere in the sea of Ockots as drifting seagrass. A variety with hollow stems has also been observed, described by Agardh (Species Algarum, I. p. 143.) as Alaria fisiulosa, and lately shown by Dr. E. J. Ruprecht to be a sort of his Phasgonum. This botanist has also described the Fucus esculenlus very accurately as Phasg. alatum (v. Middendorff's Siberisehe Seise, Vol. I, pt. 2. p. 353 sqq). Erman found torn pieces of this seagrass on the shore of Ockots which were more than 50 feet long. It serves the Phoca naulica as food , and in time of need is eaten by the Sea Tungus (Reise, III. p. 48). The Fucus esculentus, named Kombu, is generally eaten in Japan, has a very pleasant taste and is noted as being very wholesome and nutritive. Toknai, a venerable old man of 72, assured the writer that it was from the use of that seagrass during his many years residence at Jezo and Krafto that he was indebted for the preservation of his health. This observation may serve as a hint for navigators. The Chinese also prize this sort of Fucus. The annual exportation of it from Nagasaki lo Shanghai amounts to 51,000 pikols , at a prime cost of 170,000 tail or about £30,000 (Nippon VI, Vom Japanischen Handel, p. 52.) At Jezo and the Kurils there are seaweed fisheries which are encou raged and protected by the government. **' 5* 68 THE CEREMONY DESCRIHED. of America *) on the 23r<> of June, in name ofthe Com pany, giving it the name of CompagnyslanlA As early as the end of the 6* cent., the Japanese had become acquainted with the southern part of Jezo, which they called JFatari simano Jezo, i. e. Eerry island of Jezo, because at that time the northern part of Nippon was called Jezo. The Kurils, that is to say * As is well known it was believed even at the beginning of the 17tn cent, that America was only separated by a narrow strait , Prelum Anian, from tbe Mogul empire, the N.E. extremity of the old world. On Jansson's map and on that of "Gedaene Coursen" (Atlas N°. HE.) the Compagnysland is shown as an extensive country without end. On the map of Gedaene ontdeckinghe onder den Commandeur M. G. Vries , however , the Compagny slant is drawn as au island , and divided by a strait from an extensive region, on which stand the words "Americae Pars;" in the strait is written "Here the Yacht Brcs- kens has been." It is therefore to that vessel we are indebted for the recognition of the Compagnyslant as an island. The Russian officer Spangberg sailed round it in 1739. The narrow tongue of land running out to the W. from the supposed part of America , is most probably Simushir, the XVIth of the Russian Kurils. On the map of Japan belonging to the Verhandeting over de Nederlandsche ontdekkinge (Essay on the Netherland discoveries) hy Bennet and van Wijk, we find to the S. W. of that island two small islands, Sond island and Heuvel island, which [were probably also discovered and so named by the ship Sreskens. They are now called Broughton's Island and Tsirpoi. t The taking possession of Urup is too important a fact not to be given here literally from Coen's Journal. "Reported all I had seen to the Commander , then accompanied him to a steep table mountain and coming there the commander raised up a wooden cross on a high hill , on which cross stood the following: £§. anno 1643. Have thus taken possession Of this land in the name of our Hon. masters, and given it the name of Companyslant , and named this point Cruishoek. Have eaten and drunk on the Companyslant , and then fired three salvos with muskets in honour of our Hon. masters." HISTORY OF URUP FROM 1672. 69 the most southern, which they named Figasi Jezo, or East Jezo, were not discovered until the year 1672 by a Japanese coaster, accidentally driven thither by storm. The Eussians became acquainted with them soon after their establishment at Kamtschalka, and, as has been said above, they were examined by Spangberg and Walton in the yeare 1737 — 39. At the beginning of. this cen tury, hunters (Promnschle?iike) of the Eussian-American fur-company, sometimes went over to Urup, which, on account of the many sea otters * that congre gated there, is also called Rakkosima by the Japanese. About the year 1840 the Eussians carried on a barter on that island with the Ainoes and the Japanese who came there to fish, which trade seemed to be tacitly allowed by the Japanese government. In 1854 (Sep tember 3rd) two Erench frigates belonging to the squadron dispatched to Kamtschatka by the allied Western naval powers, took possession of the island of Urup, "the seat of the Eussian trade on the Kurils", and gave it the name of "Alliance? Urup was as yet no Imperial Eussian territory , — it actually still belonged to Japan, and is marked as such on Sakusajemon's map. But the Eussian ambassador, admiral Putiatine, happened just then to be at Japan, and had offered to the court of Jedo a treaty of peace and commerce, in which the emperor Nicholas had proposed that: "the boun daries between Russia and Japan shall be between the islands of Iterup (Staaten island) and Urup (Com- pagnie island)? According to Art. 2 of the treaty con- * Enydris marina, called Sakko by the Ainoes and Japanese, and Sakku by the Kamtschadales. 70 URUP OR COMPANYSLANT DESCRIBED. eluded in 1856 between Japan and Russia, "Urup be longs to the possessions of Russia." And as we have lately heard , a concession has been not long since gran ted to the Eussian- American Company, to work the copper mines discovered on that island. Such is the history of the neglected Compagny slant. Urup stretches N.E. and S. W., and, according to the observations of Golownin, reaches from Cape van der Lijn, 45° 39' N. and 149° 34' E., to Cape Cas tricum 46°16'N. and 150° 22' E. Erom Cape Castri cum, according to Sakusajemon's map, there also stretches a promontory N. E. 6 Ei far. On Golownin's map it is marked as much shorter and ending in rocks. Von Krusenstern reckoned the whole length of this island at 54 English miles, which agrees pretty accurately with the already mentioned original Japa nese map. The whole shape and configuration of the coast is also just the same. In the south, one observes the high Miner aelb er ch , Kabiop, behind which the coast runs in and forms a bay, and a series of conical mountains along the northern part of the W. side, ending in a promontory Cape Nobu (Castricxim). On the E. coast there are also some bays, among which that of Wanan, situated about the middle, appears to be a good harbour. We will also remark that the "steep Cliff (S. S. W. 3% miles from the anchorage) which lies at about a musketshot from, land, and is like a pyramid and. was full of mews, was so steep that il was not pos sible to climb it; this cliff was full a musketshot high? was seen by Golownin when % English mile dis tant from the S. point of Urup; the reef however, as VARIARLE STREAM IN STRAIT DE VRIES. 71 given on Jansson's map, was not observed. Golownin and Eicord, who passed three times through Strait de Fries, tell us nothing about the current in this strait. On Sakusajemon's map it is marked in the middle S. E. According to the observations in the Journal of the 5* August, "with a steady N.wind the swell was very heavy , rolling through the strait from N. N. E? On the other hand the mate Coen, on the 20* Juue, believes that they were "drifted first to the N. W. and then to the N? The wind was then variable, but the pre vailing one of that season was S. E. and S. W. ; whence it may be inferred that the wind exercises a real in fluence on the current in this strait, and that, as in those seas southern winds generally prevail from May to August, and northern winds from August to May, the current is to the N. during the first three months and afterwards to the S. Erom here Vries steered N. and N. W. up to lat. 47° 27' N., where he determined to return to the S. Had he continued this course any longer, he would have lost his way in the sea of Ochots. So doing he examined the coast of Jeterop, discovered the strait which divides that island from Kunasiri and then opened the way along the N. coast of Jezo for the discovery of the bays of Anhoa and Paiientie, the S. and S. E. part of the so called Peninsula of Saghalien, which, from the important researches of a Japanese, Mamia Rinso, we at a later period find recorded in the history of geography as an island under its true name of Krafto. The results of the voyage along the W. coast of Jeterop, and of the observations taken at the anchorage off Fossen-Island, at the western en- VRIES IN TIIE GULF OF ANIWA. 73 was a stream running here, but on account of the stiff gale could remark but little ofhoio it ran? Erom the mist covering the low coast and from the tops of some mountains appearing W. by S. up to the N. N.E., that able seaman was misled to suppose that the land to the W. was connected, and to seek a passage through the gulf which runs in deep to the N.; "had seeii much rush, vegetables and wood fioating about; did not know whether we were in a navigable passage or in a gulf? According to the soundings taken at 4 o'clock P. M., July 14*. Vries was already in the Gulf of Aniwa, 4 or 5 miles E. by N. of the high mountain (Horobori), which runs out in a promontory (Notoro) , named Cap Crillon by Laperouse, and forms the W. and S. boun daries of the Gulf of Aniwa. On our map of Krafto (Atlas N°. 3) we have already recognised Horobori as Bly deber g, which must haye been the high land seen by Vries W. by S. * The land that stretches farther from N. N. W. to N. N. E., is the mountain chain called Poortlandt , extending W. from the gulf to Pic Ber- nicet of Laperouse, f.nd to the right of Zalmbaai north wards, and bearing, on Toknai's original maps, the names of Okosjo and Niwajemesi (de Speenberg,Y nes?). The two high mountains soon afterwards seen E. by N. at lOVa miles distance, having the appearance of an * On the map of Japan, belonging to the above mentioned essay of Bennet and van Wijk , the name of Blydeberg is applied to Pic de Langle. On all the original maps of Vries's voyage, Blydeberg lies at least 5(Y more N. than the isle of Sisiri, on which that peak is situated. Nor can the before mentioned soundings by any way be brought to agree with it. THE ISLAND OF It I S I It 1 DESCRIBED, 75 a chain of continually active volcanoes? This problem does not belong solely to the province of geology; it most certainly belongs to hydrography and here, as in all volcanic countries , should be taken into account by navigators. When sailing for the W. entrance of the strait, coming from the south, the islands of Risiri and Refunsiri serve as landmarks , the former with its high peak, which can be seen 50 Engl, miles out at sea; —from the N. the island of Tolo mosori (I. Mon- neron, Laperouse). Risiri lies at 45° 11' N.Lat. and 141° 12' 15" E. Long.; it stretches N. N. W.and S. S. E. from the coast, about seven Engl, miles long and three or four broad; the E. side is steep, rocky and appears to be unfruitful; the W. side runs down more level, is also surrounded with rocks, here and there covered with a luxuriant vegetation, and with its variation of green spots and woods affords an agreeable sight. The Kegelberg , the volcanic action and crater of which can be plainly seen, is rocky and barren, and partly covered with snow even in the month of May. The W. and N. W. coast has some coves , Tolo iomari and Benkai tornari, which are inhabited and in which are Japanese guardhouses. At the N. end there is also a hamlet ofthe Ainoes, and a guard, Nakkatomari, and (according to Toknai) on the N. E. coast a bay Olsulsi tornari , into which a small river Kv.sjonai falls. Erom this bay there runs a road to Toto tornari. The Ja panese frequently anchor in this bay on their way from Matsmae to Cape Soja. When seen at a distance of 24 Engl, miles S. W., this island appears like a conical mountain rising out of the sea, on which, even in the summer, the snow-filled furrows may be EUROPEAN AND JAPANESE MAPS OF KRAFTO. 77 This cape has the appearance of a steep , rugged rock with a deep cloven point. According to Toknai's map some rocks lie out beyond the cape. Von Krusenstern, who doubled the cape at a distance of from 5 to 8 miles , found the track clear and sounded 75 fathoms clay. The Gulf of Aniwa. To Vries we are indebted for the discovery and first knowledge of this gulf , to von Krusenstern for the confirmation of the discovery and a closer geo-hydrographic examination. The Japanese geographers Mogami Toknai and Mamia Einso have acquainted us more particularly with the configuration of the coasts, their promontories , bays and creeks , with the rivers and streams which run into them, with the lakes and mountain chains and with their native names. But it is not only an intimate knowledge of this gulf we owe to them, for these indefatigable travellers have also made us acquainted with by far the greater part oi Krafto. Saghalien, formerly so little known, and long supposed to be a peninsula, has been as it were torn off from the continent of Asia by their researches, aud they have opened to us the interior of a terra incog nita. Compare the best European map of Kraflo that exists, the Carte de laPresqriile deSaghalin, 1827, * composed by von Krusenstern from the observations of Vries, Laperouse, Broughton and his own impor tant discoveries, with our map "die insel Krafto und die Miindting des Manko (Amur) nach Originalkarlen von Mogami Toknai und Mamia Rinzo? t and the * Atlas de l'Ocean Pacifique, par de Krusenstern, N*. 25. f Von Siebold, Atlas von Land- und Seekarten 1. c, N°. 3. I will here remark that the only existing copy in Japan of Toknai's 78 VRIES COMES TO ANCHOR ON TIIE 16TH JULY'. longest island in the world lies open before our eyes; an island that, by our means, according to art. 2 of the treaty concluded between Russia and Japan, is declared neutral, and thus from this moment not only open to the commerce of the whole world, but also rendered capable for colonisation by means of a new population. * In the supposition that the land was closed to the W. and no passage was possible, Vries had continued his course N, at a distance of 4 miles from the shore, which he named Poort Landt. He guessed himself at lat. 46°30'N, at a depth of 23 fathoms stiff clay. He now steered N. E., and so continuing with shoal ing depth up to 16 fathoms stiff clay, he carne to anchor. On the 16* July "in the morning it was misty weather, but clearing a little up , we found ourselves in a large bay. The boat was sent ofi' to examine the anchorage somewhat nearer in shore, when 10 fathoms stifl' clay was found within Vs mile of the shore. At "Original M. S. Maps of Jezo, the Kurils, Krafto and the Amur," was given to me at Jedo by the traveller himself oa the 16*h April 1826, on condition I should not publish it within 25 years. Notwith standing his great merits for a knowledge of the northern lands subject to Japan, the venerable old man had, then in his 72nd year, fallen into disgrace and was plunged in poverty and misfortune because he made no secret of his discoveries , was too sincere and old , and yet was too proud to bend. It was thus that his invaluable maps came into my possession, and were only published in 1852. * "Art. 2. The boundaries between Sussia and Japan are in future between Ilurup and Urup. The whole island of Ilurup (Staatenland) belongs to Japan, the island of Urup (Compagnieland) with tbe N. Kurils to Russia, while the island of Krafto (Saghalien) is neutral grouud between the two empires." Journal de St. Pelersbourg , 28 Avril 1857. ' 80 VRIES'S CALCULATION DEFENDED. But did Vries really make such an error of 52' in the latitude ? Most certainly not ! The anchorage of the Castricum was fixed by him to be by account at 46° 40' N.Lat., and that was lk mile S. W. oi Aniwa Tamary. The anchorage of the Nadeshda was deter mined by von Krusenstern, by observation at 46° 41' 15" N. Lat. and 142° 33' E. Long., at a distance of 2% English miles S. 49° E. of the Japanese factory. As now the anchorage of von Krusenstern was at most 3 minutes more N. than that of Vries, the difference between the latitude determined by the Dutch navi gator by account in 1643, and that by observation of one of the most famous hydrographers of the present century, is only 2 minutes. If to this we add Vries's observed lat. of July 19*, 46° 27' N. "the sleep point lo the East of Tamary then bearing N. JF. % W. , 2 % miles distant, to the N. the land lay 2%, lo N.E. 3 miles, E. 5 miles, lo the S. E. by S., the farthest point we could see, 8 miles from us and lo that point we gave fhe name of Cape Aniwa," and find from this astronomical and compass observation of Vries , that the "steep point to the East of Tamary" lies at 46° 3 7', and that that point is 4' more S. than von Krusenstem's ancho rage , — then no difference any longer exists respecting the geographical position of Sabnbay, as determined by our two navigators. And if we take into consideration the latitude by account ofthe following noon (20* July), where Vries reckoned he had sailed S. by E. 6% miles and was at 46° 1' 30", and Cape Aniwa E. S. E. 3 or 4 miles distant, we shall have to fix the geographical position of Cape Aniwa at 45° 59'. N. Lat. , which gives a difference of 3' 20" with the repeated astronomical VRIES 'S ACCURACY PKAISED. 81 von Krusenstern, according to whom this cape is at 46° 2' 20" N. Lat. The bay or creek named Tofuts, E. by S. of point Tamary, and a steep rock called Piramyda on Vries's maps , and Takatsuka (i. e. high tomb hill) on that of Toknai, which von Krusenstern could not see on account of the dense mist, exist as testimonies of the accuracy of Vries's observations and at the same time of the fidelity of the Japanese maps. Eightly therefore did Laperouse say, when criticising the observations of our navigator in the Gulf of Aniwa: "precision etonnante pour le temps ou fut faite la campagne du Kastricum;"* and not less flattering is the exclamation of von Krusenstern, when in 1834 I showed him, on the maps of Toknai and Einso, the straits dividing Krafto from Amurland : "Les Japonais m'ont vaincuF The Gulf qf Aniwa , which is 90 Engl, miles broad and 70 deep, and, as far as we have examined it, free from dangers, offers a roomy and at the same time safe anchorage, along the coasts enclosing it E. and W., and in the so called Salmbay, in which it ends. It "offers from 45 to 10 fathoms stiff clay (sleekgrond) soundings, regularly shoaling up to the shore, where the bottom is rocky with small stones. Von Krusenstern could not accurately observe the time of high water at new or full moon ; he believes however that it is about 5 o'clock. The mate Coen says: "The water rises a fathom here (Salmbay) on and off, several times a day? Land- and sea-breezes also blow regularly here in the evening and morning. Vries observed stiff landbreezes , * Voyage de Laperouse 1. c, Tom. Ill, page 93. 82 THE GULF OF ANIWA. and von Krusenstern a fresh seawind. The stream running E. in the middle of Strait Laperouse, is not felt on the coast of the gulf; just as on the N. coast of Jezo , there seems to be an E. and W. stream , chan ging with the seasons. The deviation of the compass at the E. entrance of the gulf (1805) amounted to 1° 11" E. At the time of Vries's visit the gulf was inhabited only by Ainoes. In the beginning of the 17* cent, indeed, the prince of Matsmae on Jezo had re peatedly undertaken an expedition from Cape Soja to Krafto. The Japanese wintered there, but however re turned after a lapse of some years. The first communi cations respecting Krafto, also called Kita-Jezo or North Jezo , we owe to the Japanese geographer Eajasi Sivei. * Erom him it appears that, as early as the beginning of the the 18* cent., there was a commercial commu nication from Jezo with that country, and that they were then already acquainted with 22 Aino villages. It was supposed that this land was separated from Santan and Mantschu by a high mountain chain, and it was asserted that the rapid stream , and the cliffs and shoals in the strait between Jezo and Kraflo made the navigation thither very dangerous. An island Sagalin (Saghalieri) is given on Sivei's map, just opposite the mouth of the Amur, just as that island is also placed on the Chinese maps. On the before-mentioned map of Eu- kutsi Kensok Krafto is already marked as an island, and the course from Soja to Siranusi laid down. Krafto only became better known to the Japanese after August 1785, when Mogami Toknai put over from Soja with * San-kok-tsu-ran-dsu-ki and Klaproth's translation, page 187 84 ITS GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION DETERMINED. Cape Tonyn and determined the geographical position of it at 46° 50' N. lat. and 143° 33' E. long., and that of Cape Lowenorn at 46° 23' 10" N. lat., and 143° 40' 20" E. Long. This cape is a steep projecting rock, differing from the other rocks and distinguishable from them by its yellow colour. Judging from Jansson's map and that of the "Gedaene Ontdeckinghe" (Atlas von Land- und Seekarten, N°. 11, D), Tonyris Point must lay more to the south and the extremity must be Hontob (Cape Lowenorn). If on the other hand we take the lat. by account of July 23rd , on board the Castricum, 46° 28' N, adding five miles with a W. N. W. course, and the distance from Tonyris Point 1 mile W. S.W., — this point will then be about 46° 47' N. lat., and therefore 24' more N. than C. Lowenorn and 3' more S. than C. Tonyn, Krusenstern. On our map of Krafto (Atlas, N°. 3) we have already given the name of Tonyris Point to the S. extremity , JFojakutsi, which lies about 6' or 8' more S. than von Krusen- stern's C. Tonyn. The low land "3 or 4 miles N. of Tonyris Point," is doubtless the bay which stretches in a N. W. direc tion from Ajerub (C. Tonyn, Krusenstern), to Nolsui- toko (C. Seniavin, Krusenstern) and named by Kru senstern Mordwinoffs Bay. The Japanese travellers above mentioned have made us better acquainted with this bay, and we see there a deep creek and a large lake, Omuto, running into the sea by a river, and opening a communication with the Gulf of Aniwa by means of another river and three smaller lakes more to the south, Tsisikusito, Hotoma and Tofuts. This commu nication is very useful for the inhabitants of the whole 86 IMPORTANT LANDMARKS ON THE W. COAST OF KRAFTO. wajemesi, on the right bank of the Naif ids. Von Kru senstern, who describes it as a high rounded mountain, and places it at lat. 47° 33' N. and Long. 142° 20' E., thinks that it might be Peak Bernizet, seen by Lape rouse on theW. coast, and which, according to Lape rouse, is at lat, 47° 25' N., and 142° 21' 20" E. Long. As in the Journal the distance of the Tepelberch (Speen- berg) is given at 10 or 11 miles, it cannot well be a mountain on the E. coast, as Krafto is here (at Lat. 47Y2° N.) not more than 30 English miles broad. On the Japanese maps there are two peculiarly charac terised mountains, the already mentioned Ni-wajemesi and the Tokitae. It is not improbable that the first is the round mountain seen by von Krusenstern * after doubling his Cape Tonyn (Ajerub) , and the other that of which it is said in the Journal (July 24 at noon) : "JF. b. N. we saw some mountains, on which were summits like flat topped steeples? Tokitae, which is characterised by two conical shaped summits, is at about 47° 50' N. Lat., just iu the bay to the S. of Cape Muloffsky, where the coast begins to stretch N. b. E, We wish also to draw the attention of navigators to some high mountains rather more to the N. on the W. coast of Krafto , which can probably be seen from the E. side of that island. They are the conical moun tains Raitsiska, Jesijaran and Rijonai, the first of which was named by Laperouse Pic de Lamanon, and placed at lat. 48° 45' N. and 141° 56' E. Long., and * Hinter dieser Spitze erhob sich ein abgerundeter Berg, an wel- chen nach Norden zu sich wieder hohe mit Schnee hedeckte Berge anreihten. Von Krusenstern, Seise um die Welt, Th. II, p. 87. STREAM TO THE N. OBSERVED. 87 the last, Pic de Mongez, about 3S' more N. We have gone into more minute details respecting the moun tains, because in these seas the low land is frequently covered with a dense fog , only allowing glimpses of the highest mountain tops, which must serve as land marks. Before leaving this coast however and sailing into the "great Bay of Eso? which opened to our navigators N. N. W. to E. S. E. , we cannot leave it unnoticed that Vries observed there a stream, which., in 24 hours carried him 3 miles N. ; and that to Von Krusenstern, when ofi' Cape Muloffsky , the land had a much more pleasant aspect than the more southerly regions of Krafto and Jezo. " Although the situation of this coast to the E. and its being sheltered to AY. and N. W. up to N. E. by high mountain chains may contribute much to producing a milder climate, we must not forget, that the water streaming to the north from warmer regions — a branch of the before mentioned Japanese stream — exercises as favourable an influence on this -i coast which it washes, as the warmed floods of the Atlantic Gulfstream which penetrate to the N. as far as Iceland. We also repeat our hypothesis, that the continual mists which prevail in those regions are pro- * "Das ganze Land gewahrte nns einen viel angenehmeru Anblick als jene sudlicheren Lander die uns seit unsern Absegelen vou Japan zu Gesicbt gekommen waren, die weisseu, schroffen Ufern mil ihren Einschnitten , Berge hinter ihnen von miissiger Hohe in verscheiilenen Gestalten und mit dem schonsten Griin bedeckt, welche mit holzreichen Tbalern abwechselten, gewanneu uns eiu sehr giiustiges Vorurtheil fur diesen Theil von Sachalin ab. Auch hat er uustreitig unendliclie Vor- zuge von dem, von nns spater untersuehten , mittlern und nordlichen Sachalin." Van Krusenstern, Seise um die Welt, Th. II, pag. 92. 88 URI, OR CAPE DALRYMPLE. duced by the disproportion between the temperature of the seawater and that of the air, and continue during the greater part of the summer. At the lat. (by account) of 48°25'N, where they saw the bay bounded by high land from W. S. W. to N. E., there lay W. b. N. % N., at a distance of 8 or 9 miles "a high point, looking like an island, which was quite jagged on top and looked like a saw? This extremity is most probably the promontory formed by a mountain ridge, which stretches N. and S., running down at the sea-shore and appearing as if it stood quite isolated, and marked Uri on the Japanese maps. Von Krusenstern has named it Cape Dalrymple and placed it at lat. 48°21'N. and 142° 50' E. Long. The coast which stretches from Cape Muloffsky N. b. E. , takes a northern direction from Cape Dalrymple. As from the 25* to the 26th July Vries had followed a N. N. E. course, he could not distinctly see Cape Soimonoff, a high promontory, stretching far to the E., and which could be easily mistaken for an island. The land how ever that was seen at noon of the 26* July, 6% miles W., when Vries was at lat. 48° 56' N, can be no other than this cape, which, according to the obser- . vations of von Krusenstern, lies at lat. 48° 52' 30" and 143° I' 30" E. Long. Erom this cape the coast again stretches more to the W. and forms a bay, which, on Jansson's maps and on that of." Gedaene Ontdeckinghe ? is named the "Bocht van Sainct-Jacob ;" in the Journal however it is not mentioned. The great river the Bo- ronai, which rises in lake Sdnai, then forms a basin in the center of the broadest part of Krafto at the lat. of about 50y2°, surrounded by high snow-capped 90 CAPE PATIENTIE AND ROBBEN ISLAND. In the afternoon of the 26* July, having sailed 3 y* miles E. b. S., Vries came to anchor at 6 o'clock in 18 fathoms stiff-clay (steekgrond) mixed with small stones. He was, at about 1% from shore, at 48° 54'. "Had a point, beyond which we could see no land, like a small island S. E. b. E., 5 miles from us , and an island lay S. S. E. 4 miles from us. The land of said point stretches N. JF. for as far as we could follow it with our eyes? This point was named Cape Patientie, The water is exceeding rich in fish and sometimes in autumn in sal mon , among which the salmo lagocephalus, as in tbe Amur, is in the greatest quantity. The large numbers taken by'jthe Giljaks insures them an easy life for themselves and their dogs during the long winter. On this accouut also come many neighbouring tribes every winter to the valley ofthe Pym, as: Ainoes from the Gulf of Patientie with Japanese wares; Oroks (Orotsko , Toknai), with furs, the produce of the chase; Giljaks from both coasts , with sealskins and flesh , together with some tribes from the continent, such as M'angcens from the Amur (Manko, Rinso), with Mandsour and- Russian products, who come to the Pymi- Giljaks, partly to provide themselves with fish and jukkola (fishroe), partly for the sake of the foreign goods brought thither from all part3. Following the river to come to the east coast (Bogt Patientie) , tbe temperature fell on the 18th Feb. at 7 in the morning, to — 42° R. , and on the following morning to — 31°R. "Such excessive cold, says Dr. Schrenk, leads us to suppose that the interior of tbe island has a climate more like that of the continent than one would expect of an island." This wa3 also proved by the vegetation. In the upper part of the valley of the Pym , one every where sees the fir-tree (Abies je- zoensis ?) while the larch (Larix leptoslachys) to the seacoast supplants all other trees. Neither deer nor elands are to be found here, but the musk (Likonkamui , Aino) and the reindeer are. There is also still on Kraflo a tribe of Tungo reindeer nomades , while the Tnngoes on the Amur have long given up the breeding of the reindeer. On the 20*1' Feb. Schrenk reached tbe E. coast of the island, and returned along the same road. (Bulletin de la Classe Physico-mathemalique del' Jca- demie Imperiale des Sciences de St. Petersbourg , Tome XIV. 1856.) ROBBEN ISLAND DESCRIBED. 93 rounded with sunken cliffs, seeing them stretch out in some places for a mile farther in sea. This reef stretch es N. of the island to the main land, and also in its length S. in sea, but has many projecting reefs. There is also a point of a reef N. N. E. on which lies another large cliff or small island. These reefs seem to run up almost on to the point of the main land, though there seemed to be a narrow passage. Had also observed seals by thousands on the cliffs and water , and found lioo small huts with fire-places on the island. JFe gave it the name of Robben (Seal) island? We have copied this admirable description from the Journal, because it may serve as appendix to that com municated by the great Eussian hydrographer. "JFir sahen in einer Entfemung von hbchstens 3 bis 4 Meilen (Engl.) das gefdhrliche Felsenriff, welches das Robben Byland umgiebt. Es erslreckte sich von N. N. IF. Vi JF bis N. 0. Die Wellen brachen sich heflig. Ueberall im Norden sahen wir ein grosses Eisfeld, unler welchem wahrscheinlich die Klippen fortgingen , die wohl auch das weitere Treiben des Eises in dieser Richtung auf- hielten. Einzelne Brandungen konnte man nach Osten zu, so iveit das Auge reichte wahrnehmen? "Die Nord- osi spitse liegt nach unsern Beobachtungen in 48° 36' der Breite und 144° 33' der Ldnge, und derjenige Theil, den man fur die Sudwest Spilze ansehen kann, in 48° 28' und 144° 10', so dass der ganze Umfang des Riffs gegen 35 engl. Meilen ausmacht? * On Jansson's map the N. E. point of the reef is at lat. 47°25'N, and S.W. at 47° 8'. The small island on * Von Krusenstern, Seise um die WeU, Th.II, p. 98, 94 SOUNDINGS OBTAINED ALONG THE COAST. the map of "Gedaene Ontdeckinghe" also lies as much S. ; on that of "Gedaene Coursen" however the middle is placed at about 48° 12'. According to the observa tions taken on Vries's anchorage, Robben Island must be placed at 48° 31' which nearly agrees with that of von Krusenstern. Toknai, on his map, names Robben Island: Wotamo siri, and Cape Patientie: Fumonots. The longitude observed on board the Castricum we have omitted here for reasons given above, neither have we everywhere spoken of the depth and the soundings which our Dutch and Eussian navigators have so carefully noted along the E. coast of Krafto and in the Bay of Patientie. On board the Castricum , which kept farther from the shore, they mostly found from 60 to 34 fa thoms clay, up to the parallel of Robben island, and farther in the bay to within a distance of lYa mile from shore, they leaded 18 fathoms clay mixed with small stones. On board the Nadeshda , which sometimes approached to within a shorter distance of the coast and then again retired, they sounded from 95 to 20 fathoms clay, and at the N end ofthe Bocht Patientie from 9 to 4 fathoms within a short distance. A mile N. W. of Robben island Coen found the depth of 35 fathoms clay, shoaling up to 16 fathoms shell and shin gle, and 2 miles S. b. E. % E. of it 10 fathoms shelly ground. To the E. of Cape Patientie the depths increase rapidly to 80 and 95 fathoms, — less so and more gradually towards the S. E. , where at a distance of 9 miles 75 fathoms clay were found. Von Krusenstern, who placed but little confidence on his compasses, gives the average deviation at his second anchorage (Lat. 49° 13' 53", and Long. 143° 48' 30") at 0° 38' E. On board TERMINATION OF THE JOURNAL. 95 the Castricum it was found at lat. 48° 26' N. to be 7° 30' E. and "de compassen op 9° oostering gelegt? On the 3rd of August, at the accounted lat. 41° 8%', it '¦'¦was resolved, as the appointed time, according to the instructions of the General and Counsellors of India, had expired, thai we shonld do our best to come again into the South Sea; therefore to steer for Canal de Fries? Cape Patientie therefore received the second name of "Caep Keer JFeer? or Cape Turn Again. We have already met our bold navigators on the 5* of August, in the strait which commemorates the name of their commander, and described their stay in Bay de Goede Hoop, from the 16* of August to the 1st 0f September, elucidating and confirming their ob servations. We have also noted in the annals of dis coveries their discoveries on the voyage back, along the E. coast of Japan and of the islands to which they gave the name of a still worthier navigator, Abel Tasman. Let us then yet mention the day on which the Castricum , under command of Commodore Maerten Gerritz Vries arrived safely in the harbour of Tayouan on Formosa, and repeat the ejaculation of joy and thanksgiving with which the Journal ends: "Came — November \S(k 1643 — • to anchor in 10 fathoms , for which we cannot enough praise and thank Almighty God for having so graciously preserved us du ring this perilous voyage, and brought us here in safety in Tayouan. To him be all honour and glory , Amen !" And here I close my geo-hydrographic elucidations, in which I have given navigators some useful hints and notices for the extention of geography and the art of navigation. I wrote this with the primary purpose 96 CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. of placing it in the hands of the officers of the Eoyal Navy, of men adorned by talents and experience, and more than ever inspired with the spirit of our Dutch navigators of the 17* cent., and especially of those who are now detached to Japan, to whom not only the task is confided of imparting scientific knowledge to the inquisitive people of that empire, but to whom it is peculiarly confided to lay the foundations of a navy on European principles, and above all to open to Japan the world, to her ships the navigation of the Great Ocean, and to her people the trade of the world. If Netherland influence and confidence has been able to remove the cliffs of prejudice and suspicion of a government which for ages has followed the system of exclusion as the foundation for the preservation of peace and freedom , not from caprice but necessity ; if Ne therlander by birth , or men of other tongues attached to Netherland and naturalised after many years of faith ful service, — if such men from the year 1641, have been able to keep up as it were in secret in their prison on the isolated isle of Decima, the enlightening fire of science, — what expectations may we not now en tertain , when the Netherland representatives of European science in Japan are permitted openly and unhindered to show the torch of civilisation, and by means of instructing the Japanese, instruct themselves with regard to Japanese affairs and science; and where the finest opportunity is afforded them, under the Dutch and Japanese flag united , of examining and extending by new observations and discoveries , the extensive field of geography and hydrography, which, until very lately, the foreigner could only follow in secret. EARLY ACCOUNTS OF THE AINOES. 99 Japan in 1622, a year before he was burnt at Jedo. Nicolaes Witsen has copied it in his "Noord-Oost Tar- tarye," * and this sketch ofthe manners and customs of the Ainoes is too important for us not to copy it here literally from that scarce book, in order that we may compare it with the account of our Netherland navigators. "As for the appearance of the inhabitants, they are coarse and of larger stature than men generally are: more inclining, in colour to white than brown. They wear long beards sometimes down to the middle. They shave the hair of the forehead half off, so that they have no hair on the temples, but a good deal behind, as some wear it as long as the Japanese. In general they have the ears bored, and have silver rings in them instead of pendants ; those who have no silver run a flock of silk through the hole and let the ends hang down long. This is done by both men and women. The dress of both sexes is long, interwoven with silk, embroidered with ornaments of crosses or roses of the same stuff, large and smaU. Their stuffs arc of silk, cotton or linen. For arms they employ arrows, bows, lances and swords, which last are not larger than an ordinary Japanese poker. Instead of armour they have coats of small planks fastened together, which is ridi culous, to look at. They have poisoned arrows which give an incurable wound. They are very quarrelsome, though they seldom kill one another. Large cmantities of dried fish, also herrings, swans and cranes, living as well as dead, and also dried, together with falcons and other birds, were brought to Malsumay for sale. * N. Witsen, deelll. I. u. p. 57. 7* 100 EARLY ACCOUNTS OF THE AINOES. Whales are also caught there and the Todonoeno (seals), the skin of which is hairy, not unlike that of a swine, and four feet long. These fish are to be had there very cheap. They do not trade with gold or silver coin, but exchange their wares for rice, cotton, yarn, linen and stufls , or ready made clothing. The lord of Matsmnay assured me that the inhabitants of Jesso went to three . ... t islands not far distant from their country and the inhabitants of which had no beards and a very different language from those of Jesso, to purchase fish-skins, which they call Raccon (Eakko , Enydrys marina). But he did not know whether those islands wrere to the S. or N. of Jesso. As to their knowledge of another world and a future life, it. is little or nothing. They have some sort of worship for the Sun and Moon as the two greatest lights; as also some mountain and sea devils; for as they mostly support themselves in the mountains by hunting and wood-cutting, and ou the sea with fishing , they hope by these means to catch much and never to be in want of wood for fuel or build ing. They have neither Bonses nor priests nor temples nor any place where they come together to do anything for their salvation. "None among them are able to read or write. "Each one has his own lawful wife , or as some suppose , even two ; though there are many who have concubines in the Chinese manner. When the husband dies the wife often goes to the house of her father-in-law, or to one of the husband's friends, under condition that she shall never leave it or marry again. "A woman taken in adultery has the hair of her head shaved off, that she may thus be known; and the adulterer, JOHN S*RISS ACCOUNT OF TIIVT PEOPLfc. 101 or he with whom she has committed the crime, is depri ved of his sword and of all his ornaments by the offen ded husband or by his friends as often as they meet him." As ambassador from the English Company at the court of Jedo in 1613, John Saris, obtained accounts of Jedzo (Jezo) from a Japanese who had been there twice , which confirm the fierce appearance of that people and also throw some Light on their trade. "The men there are white and well made, but very rough and hairy all over their bodies, just like baboons and apes. Their arms consist of a bow and poisoned arrows. Those who live on the south side understand weights and measures, but thirty days journey inland they know nothing about them. They have much silver and gold dust , which they pay the Japanese for rice and other wares. Rice and Japanese cottons are much sought here. Iron and lead they get from Japan. All eatables, and whatever can serve for clothing finds most purchasers. Japan rice brought to Tedzo brings a profit of four for one. "The city where the Japanese most reside here and hold markets is named Matchma (Matsmae). In it are 500 Japanese families who have also a fort here, and he who commands in it is named Matchmadonna (Mats mae Dono). This city of Matchma is the principal staple-place of all Tedzo, whither almost all the na tives go to buy and sell, especially in the month of September to lay in their winter store. In the month of March they bring salmon and all sorts of fish , together with other wares which the Japanese accept in barter and prefer to their silver. Farther, those of Japan have no fixed dwelling place or market except Matchma. Those who live in the same island farther north are 102 FRANCOYS CARON'S ACCOUNT. very little and like dwarfs , but the other Yedsoans are like those of Japan in size and figure. They have no clothing but what is brought them from Japan. "Between Yedzo and Japan there is a very strong stream coming from Corea and running E. N. E. The winds are in general there as in Japan, viz., the N. winds begin in September and last till March , and then betcin the S. winds." * ¦ Erancoys Caron, chief of the Dutch trade in Japan, during the years 1639 — 40, gives us some less im portant notices gathered in Japan, on Jezo and the Ainoes, which we will however cite on account of the completeness of the knowledge of those times respecting that remarkable land and people. i "You travel 27 days farther N. E., bearing well to the E., before you come to the extreme point of the land named Tsungaar (Tsugar), on the sea: thence you cross a water, about eleven miles wide, and come to the land of Jeso or Sesso , where precious furs and skins abound, which land is very wild, mountainous and but thinly peopled. This land of Sesso is very large, has often been explored by Japanese, deeply and far travelled through, but no one has ever come to the end or come* to any certainty respecting it, so that they have generally come short of food and each time been obliged to return. The reports of the visitors have been such that his majesty's curiosity to know more about it has been restrained , for the land (as is said), is * Naaukeurige Verzameling der GedenJcwaardigste Beysen na Oosl- en West-Indien ens. Te leiden, door P. van der Aa, 1707, Deel 24. Agsle Oost-indische Seys enz. onder Capitain Joan Saris > pag. 136. 104 AUTHORITIES ON THEIR MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. the expeditions of Quast and Tasman, and of Vries and Schaep to the N. of Japan. Nicolaes Witsen also mentions an account by Philips Jacobs z. de Bakker, second mate on board the Castricum. * Of the map published by Jansonius, as also of the other unpub lished maps of the voyage and of the "Opdoeningen en lant-verkentenissen van de zeekuslen des lants van Jesso, en van het Compagnieslant" preserved by Wit sen, we have already spoken at sufficient length1. The most important observations and accounts, especially with respect to the Ainoes, their manners and customs, which we owe to navigators of modern times and to Japanese who have visited and described' the land of Jezo , have been lately collected by the writer of these sheets and made into a whole in his "Beschrijving van Japan? t The repetition of it here would be super fluous, useful as it might be in itself to confirm, elu cidate and enrich the communications of our old Dutch navigators. , : ' ' ,..'.'/•'. -.¦>-.„ ,.-n-„ We propose here to describe the remarkable tribe of the Ainoes according to the accounts given in the refound Journal, and according to all the records which the Netherland press has preserved us of Vries's voyage. At the same time we will keep as closely as possible • to the very words in which the different observations are given. I , Form and Features of the Ainoes. The inha- * N. Witsen 1. c. page 59. t Nippon, Abtheil. VII, p. 205— 224. $ The authorities from which we have composed this description are marked as follows: (K. B.) Korte Beschrijvinghe ; (M, B.) Mate de Bakker' s account; and (J.) Coen's Log. FORM AND FEATURES OF THE AINOES. 105 bitants of these islands of Eso , are all much alike , short, stout, compact of stature, have long rough hair and beard, so that the face is pretty nearly covered with it, but the head is shaved in front; they have well chi selled features, black eyes, short, rather thick and not flat noses, low forehead, yellow skin and very hairy all. over the body. The women are not so brown as the men, have their hair shorn all ronnd, so that it does not cover their faces. Others let it grow long and twist, it up like the Javanese women, paint their eye brows and lips black and blue, have all, men, women and children, their ears pierced and wear silver rings in them, as also flocks of Armo-silk with lead and copper rings. (K. B.) * ¦ On Krafto the women are whiter than on Jezo: "Saw (in the Gulf of Aniwa) a woman sitting in a prow, white, with long black hanging hair on her head , had in each ear a large blue bead chain, on which some other beads were strung. (J.) t "Found there (Bay of Patientie) a white woman , with a pretty face , having long black hair , with a band of beaver (Sea-otter) fur round her head, dressed all in fur, having a little girl with her with a fur dress ¦ on , with a beautiful band of sable fur round her head ; had also a boy standing near her dressed in fur." (J.) The log also speaks of a white man , possibly a ship- ' * Compare Nippon, Alias, Tab. XVI, XVII, XVIII. f Compare Nippon, VII Atlas, Tab. XXI, fig. 5. The most pre cious are tbe blue Obsidian which they call Krafto lama, precious stone from Krafto. These blue corals are found among all the peoples ofthe frigid zone, of tbe northern hemisphere, from the Great Ocean np to Behring's straits, where they were found hy von Kotzebue in the Sound which bears his name. 106 GOVERNMENT, AINO-CHIEFS , ETC. > wrecked Japanese ; though old people , being less ex posed to the open air on account of the infirmities of old age, may fade in colour and become whiter as are the women of the better class in this country. • "At some distance from the prow an old white man with a long gray beard, sat on the Japanese manner on a mat to pray, clad in a flowered cotton dress made in the Japanese fashion. My guide motioned me that I should go to the old man." (J.),.v-! !..'.< Government, Aino-Chiefs, Administration of Justice, Punishment. At the time of Vries's visit to Jezo, the Ainoes of the southern part of that island had long lived under a Japanese prince who resided in the city of Matsmae. "The Matsmay Si- madonne (Matsmae Sima dona), Governor or Chief of said island, goes annually to salute the emperor of Japan at Jedo, taking with him as presents much sil ver, feathers (to be used on arrows) and fine furs passing over in a bark from Eso to the Japan coast Nabo , * whence he journies by laud to Jedo? (K. B.) "Among them there is no legislation or police, no writing or books , no one being able to read or write." (K. B.) They have however chiefs who exercise their authority, and are held in high consideration and- honour among them. "The inhabitants came to meet us in two prows and three persons come over in our prow; we then steered together to their village which they called Ackys (Atkesi on Jezo), and went with the man of greatest * Probably to the above described harbour of Nambu, on tbe E. coast of Nippon. Possibfy also the harbour of Sai or Ohala. TWO CHIEFS DESCRIBED. 107 authority, whose name was Noiasack, into his house.'' (J.) These are mostly old men remarkable for expe-- rience and social virtues. "While lying at anchor there came a crowd of people on board accompanied by a blind man whom they honoured and respected. This old blind man, before returning to shore, raised his hands and pronounced a long oration over the crew , which our people did not understand a word of." (M. B.) "The commodore gave the oldest a small Prince flag, with which he seemed very glad, set it up on his house and let it fly." (J.) The meeting with the Aino chiefs in the Bay of Patientie may be very properly introduced here to give an idea of those martial personages. "Saw two staid persons sitting on a large tree which had been thrown by the sea on the coast, stout of limb, the one with a long beard, having a bow and arrow in his hand, with a quiver full of arrows hanging to his head and a hanger at his side; the other was somewhat younger, having two large mustachios, had also a bow and arrow in hishand and further armed with a hanger and quiver full of arrows. Behind them stood two strong men, armed as before, dressed in fur clothing. The elder of the two stuck his bow in the sand with an arrow next it, and took a long pike about 18 feet long in his hand, and they both remained sitting and the two others standing. On coming a little closer to them I said Tacoy yankarale and rubbed my hands together, as I had seen at Tamarij , on which the old est said Tacoy. I then went nearer and taking his hand motioned him that we were friends, -by pressing 110 A TOMB OPENED AND DESCRIBED. coffin , the bottom of wooden trellis-work , airy , on which the corpse lay with a wreath of finely cut sha vings round his head. He had an old blue cotton dress on, but that was all decayed; we found in the coffin with him some saucers and vessels for food aud other such things, with a bow and arrow. He had also as it seemed had some food in a box; there also lay a small block for stamping rice and a rice-stamper in the coffin. ' The coffin was well closed with a cover like the roof of a house; above on the sharp edge of the cover lay a finely carved wooden cover. Along the coffin at each end was a finely carved lion or dragon's head , with wooden rings of the same wood in their mouths, and from all the four corners downwards similar carved wood as said above. Having regarded these graves with astonishment, we saw also many little sticks standing near , with fine . carved shavings hangyig to them." (J.) * <- '- At Atkesi or Jezo it was remarked that the place "Where the dead lay under the earth ," the grave was covered with oyster-shells. In other places they stand in a small hut in the coffins above ground, on four piles, the hut being very cleverly carved with ornamental carv ing, without any other offerings being found there." (J.) The hut with a skeleton in it found on Urup was doubt- * Compare with) this the tombs in the Bay de Castries. Voyage de Laperouse, Atlas, No. 53, as also the tomb observed by Toknai - on the W. coast of Krafto. Nippon VII, p. 217, Atlas, Tab. XXII, fig. 15. These tombs have very much analogy with those of some American tribes, viz. the Bacotaks and Chippewas. With them too before the hody i3 buried, it is preserved for from 12 to 16 months in tombs constructed of planks and beech bark, and resting on piles. During this time food and drink are offered to the souls of the de ceased, and arms and other valuables are laid next them. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. Ill less a burial place ; the sabre hung up before it is a proof of it. In the Jezoki * stands : "When the Ainoes will solemnly bury any one , they hang up the sabre of the deceased over his grave, on a pole five or six feet high." "They reported they had been in some huts in which lay a skeleton and a death's head. These huts were made of branches of trees and covered with long grass ; found in said huts a pole struck in the ground on which hung a hanger.'' (J.) The scars so generally observed on the foreheads of the natives bear evidence of the so-called death struggle , which consists in the nearest relations giving themselves a cut in the forehead with a knife (makere), and offering the blood to the departed souls. 1 "They have most of them been wounded and cut over the head with many cuts and slashes , as is shown by the large scars." (K. B.) The peaceable Ainoes were therefore turned by our people into : "Forest vagabonds or Ban dits, every one being his own master." (K. B.) Manners and Customs, Manner of life and Eood: "From their long beards and hair they appear to be very fierce , but know how to conduct themselves so sincerely and simply towards foreigners, that one cannot judge them otherwise than as civil and polished people. When they come to foreigners they dress them selves up in their finest clothes , and know how to be have very modestly, show their courtesy and politeness by bowing the head and folding, the hands, rubbing * Jeso-ki, ou Description de Vile d'leso etc., par l'interprete Kan- nemon; in Malte-Brun's Annates des voyages , etc. Tom. XXIV, p. 147. + Nippon, VIII, p. 21*. 112 DOMESTIC CUSTOMS. them backwards and forwards the one over the other; singing with a trembling voice as the Japanese do; but when they get a little encouragement they are soon familiar and show a friendly and gay face." (K. B.) i "And then ihrew his arms amicably round my waist in. sign of friendship, and went so hand in hand to his house." (J.)' They are hospitable: "on landing we were well Teceived by the natives." (M. B.) "They in vited me to enter their huts." (J.) -?-• - "Every man has two wives, who make mats, sew their husband's clothes and cook; and when the men collect or cut firewood in the forest, the wife carries it to the prow; and then they have to row as well as the men." (K. B.) '< ; '- * -; iThe women, especially the old ones , are not ignorant and seem to' have much authority .' "on which the oldest woman, understanding my meaning etc." (J.) "A hut but of which came a decrepit old woman leaning on a stick, who seemed to have much authority." (J.) "The men are very jealous of their wives and daughters with strangers, so that they cannot suffer them to romp or play with them. If they remark that any one tempts them to indecency they will kill him if they get him in their power." (K. B.) -- ¦• ¦ When their wives are in childbed they keep in a small separate hut, and for the space of two or three weeks no male is admitted. The children are quite white when brought into the world. When they wanted to give the breast, and any of our men were near, they did it very covertly, not uncovering the breast more .than just sufficient to let the infant take the nipple in its mouth. Even very young girls and children, 114 DWELLINCS, HOUSES, I1IJTS, ETC. finger." (J.) "They sit on the mats in the Japanese manner.'' (J.) Dwellings, houses, huts, barns, forts etc. "Their huts, which are mostly situated on the strand, on the declivity of the mountains, and some few on the top, are of planks, planed and jointed, covered with the bark of trees as well on the sides as on the top, and provided with a window above, to let out the smoke from the fire which is made in the middle of the house. Inside it consists of one room planked off' with deals and curiously covered with single rushmats along the ground, 10 or 12 paces long and 6 broad, all very nicely made, some set round with a palisade of pines. Their houses are not more than twice a man's height, just as the farmhouses in the Netherlands, and the doors are so low that one goes in stooping. There are not many standing together; the greatest number our people saw together was 18 or 20, gene rally 6, 7, 9 and 12, then more than half a mile from the others, also for the most part empty and uninha bited. They have no furniture except rushmats, then- Japanese dresses together with the silver work are at the same time ornaments, they have fur covers to sit on or sleep on." (K. B.) Many descriptionsMn the Log, and the drawings we have obtained from Japanese, agree with the above. * There they also speak of huts, barns, and cages for bears, eagles and other birds, etc. A hut or tent on the strand in the gulf of Aniwa, is thus described: * Nippon 1. 0^ Tab. XVI. XX. Von Krusenstern Eeise. Atlas No. LXXVI. FORTIFIED DWELLINGS. 115 "it was made up merely of mats, with sticks in a triangle ; in the centre was a fire over which hung an iron kettle with salmon and green herbs to boil." (J) * Small warehouses about a man's height above the ground, standing on four supports or uprights , in which lay dried fish; the doors were made of firwood and only closed with strius'"'* + "Near this house stood a large cage in which some animal seemed formerly to have been kept." Many small cages to which vessels for food and water were still attached." (J.) Here stood a large square cage in which was a large black bear, § at each corner of the ca°-e was a long pine with a may to which was hanging- many shavings. I supposed that it was in triumph over the imprisoned bear or for some religious cere mony." (J.) ** While the Castricum was refreshing in the Bay de Goede Hoop, they learned that the inhabitants of Afkesi were living in good understanding with their southern neighbours, and the mate Coen saw some fortified dweUings there." These forts were made as follows: on 'the mountain on which they were placed, was a small road steep to climb, and round on the four sides, pal- * Compare Nippon I. c. Tab. XVIII. Von Krusenstern, 1. u. No. LXXX. f Von Krusenstern I. e. No. LXXVI. Nippon 1. c. Tab. XVI. % Nippon 1. u. Tab. XVI. ** They are the above mentioned Inao. Besides, the bear is ho noured among them and therefore called Hokjok Kamui (Kamui , Ja panese Kami, God). They however bring up young bears for the pur pose of sacrificing them to their Protecting-gods , and eating them at the sacrificial feast. Compare Nippon I.e. p. 203, 219. Tab. XVII, where the bear-feast Omsia is figured. S* 116 DRESS,-. lissades were placed of the height and length of 1% man's length; within this stood two or three houses. There were large fir doors in the pallissades with strong clamps; when they were closed two stout bars were passed through the clamps and thus fastened them. At two corners of these square placed pallisades, a high scaffolding is made of fir planks for a look out; fur ther, the pallisades are well fastened together with cross bars." (J.) Dress, ornaments, etc. "Their dress is mostly in the Japanese manner, but seldom of silk, mostly of cangans dyed blue with water flowers , with or with out wadded Japanese petticoats. Some make the dress and petticoat of the same stuff, the sleeves not so wide at the hands , but nearly tight , with flounces and pieces of silk sewed on cross-wise; they also make dresses of skins of animals , the men having them open in front, and the women closed as a shirt." (K. B.) The dress and ornaments are more particularly des cribed in the Log. On the east coast of Jezo: "They had coarse dresses of hemp linnen on, * and over that coats made of skins ; they had holes in their ears through which hung strings; the one had a ring in his ear, which was of a sort of half copper half gold." (J) t In the Gulf of Aniwa. "The man had on a coat of cotton, blue with white spots; his women were dressed , the one with a coarse hemp dress, the other with one of seal skin." (J.) § * These are made of the bark of a tree named Ats'ni, probably a sort of Broussonetia. Compare Nippon , 1. c. , page 209. Tab. XVII. t Nippon, I.e. page 210. Tab. XXI, fig. 6, 7, 8. J Nippon, I. «. Tab. XVI, XVII, XVIII. ORNAMENTS, ETC. 117 "And they were in some places stitched with red and blue cotton thread." "Some had dresses of skin on." "We found there on a raised place on which lay mats (the Aino chief) sitting, dressed in a blue cotton dress with white flowers; his wife on his left side was dressed in a dress ornamented with many bones and crosses, stitched with cotton threads of all kinds of colours; these dresses were like the Japanese catabers (Kata hira,, a sort of muslin.) "The decrepid old man (an Aino chief) had on a blue cotton dress, on which was printed Japanese cha racters with gold in a large square space. This dress stitched and ornamented with all kinds of coloured threads." (J.) "Had all of them tufts of armoi-silk of all colours in their ears." (J.) "The host's wife had a large blue bead chain round her neck , between which were strung alternately corals and coppers." (J.) "Some of them had large silver rings in their ears." (J.) "One of which women had a young child on her lap, as beautiful as I have ever seen, which was a girl, having a blue bead chain round its neck, a blue bead and a silver one alternately; to the chain hung two large silver rings, beautifully made, weighing together a good Y2 pound." * Arms, vehicles, instruments for hunting and fishing. "Their arms are bow and arrows, to gether with a hanger, much like the Japanese, the ' . / * A drawing was-given us of such a necklace, with brass ornaments , very valuable in its sort. Nippon, 1. u. Tab. XXI, fig. 4r. 118 AKMS AND VEHICLES. blade inlaid with a thin silver border; they bear it with a girdle in the Persian manner, the quiver with a band round the head, hanging on the right side. Their bows are 4 or 5 feet long, of ash or elm, and the arrows about half a yard, very cleverly made with a small reed harpoon at the end, rubbed with black poison , so that whoever is wounded by it must imme diately die." (L) * This is confirmed. "We admired the cunning manner, in which their arrows were made, some rubbed with poison." (J.) "The oldest had a quiver hanging to his head, with a bow in his hand and a sword at his side. We saw no arms besides." t "The inhabitants (Gulf of Annua) had some of them hangers at their sides, the blades of which were inlaid with silver, very curiously, as were also the sheaths and points. The handles of their hangers were also very beautifully inlaid and worked in silver." (J.) "These people are by nature idle , not industrious in labour, neither sow nor reap, gain their subsistance in a small boat which is cut out of a thick tree , strength ened on each side with four planks one foot high , § in which they row just as our farmers in their milkboats, but do not put their oars into the water together. With these boats, they go to fish for seals and other animals, for which they have instruments, as harpoons of bone, the point provided with a piece of iron or copper. They had also nets made in the Dutch manner, the thread * Nippon, c.l, page 210—211. Tab. XXII, fig. 1—5. t Nippon, I.e. Tab. XVI. $ Compare Nippon, I.e. page 213. Tab. XXIII, fig. 1, 2, 3. 120 TRADE OF THE AINOES. water, where they are seized by the dogs on the look out, who bite off their heads and bring the bodies to their masters, and then return again to their post. This takes place at low water." (J.) Their method of making fire is remarkable and sim ple. "They had their instruments for making fire with them; these were square planks with a hollow in them, then they have reeds into which is inserted a short stick ; when they want to make fire, they put the short stick in the hollow and rub it between the hands so that it turns round, and so being dipped in melted sulphur they hold that to it and soon have burning fire." (J.) Trade. The Ainoes only carry on barter with the Japanese, with the inhabitants of the north oi Krafto, and of Amurland. "The men barter train, blubber, smoked whale tongue, many sorts of skins and feathers with the inhabitants of Japan, who come here once a year to buy those wares, giving in exchange rice, sacie, Japanese clothing (silk and blue cangans), copper to- baccopipes and tobacco, boxes, japanned vessels for eating and drinking and cups; silver earrings, lead rings for hauging in the ear , axes and knives , so that most of what they possess, they have in exchange from the Japanese. Their language is somewhat mixed up with Japanese. They are very cunning in their trade, but not thievish." (K. B.) On the east coast of Jeso they came to offer their goods to the Netherlanders: "This prow was full of furs, such as sealskins, eland, otter and bearskins and others of b'nds unknown to us. They offered to ex change all for Japanese clothing." (J.) "In the Gulf of Aniwa and the Bay of Patience, TRADE OF THE AINOEK. 121 were very desirous of iron, giving in exchange feathers and fur, knowing very ingeniously how to pack up the feathers in boxes." (K. B.) "They offered me a fine otterskin for which I gave an old axe with which they were very glad." (J.) "However much silver we might offer them they al ways preferred iron to silver." (S. B.) "These people were also very fond of silk stuff's, for which they offered furs and silverwork in abundance." (S. B.) The trade of the Japanese with the Aino tribes now extends along the whole coast of J eso and up to Krafto, in the Gulf of Aniwa, and is carried on with much. advantage. Dried and salted fish, especially salmon, herring, sardinias, stockfish, shelfish, such as (Awawi, Heliolis Japonica), Tripang , (Iriko)), seaweed, (Kom- bu, Fucus esculenlus) bearskins, sea and river otter- skins , eagle's feathers, are the principal articles which they exchange for rice, tobacco, cotton stuffs, old and new articles of clothing, japanned wares, sabres, knives, raw iron, cast iron, and copper kettles and pans, etc. The Japanese also exchange some other goods with -the Ainoes, such as flowered silks, and silks interwoven with goldthread, named Kensju, fishing-lines (susi, made from the corpus sericeum oi a catterpillar) the before mentioned blue obsidian coral (Krafto tama) and enameled tobacco-pipes , which they obtain by their in tercourse with Amurland from the people of Santan and from the Mantschous , who come to Deren , a commercial place on the Amur, not far from the Bay of 'Castries. * * Nippon, I.e. page 173. 122 DESCENT OF THE AINOES. A solution of the problem of the descent of the Ainoes and their relationship with other neighbour ing nations, would be a highly important task for the science of ethnology. Their fables relative to their descent, as preserved in traditions and national songs, deserve no more credit than all similar fabulous ac counts of other rude and uncivilised nations. * The Jebisu or East savages have been known to the Japa nese from the time that Zin mu ten wo, the founder of the Mikado's or Hereditary emperor's dynasty, be gan to extend his empire to the east and north , that is to say 660 years before Christ. In Chinese history it is not till the dynasty of Han (189 B .C. to 30 A. D.) that we find any mention of the tribe Mao-min, in habiting the other side ofthe East sea, and whose bo dies were covered with hair. In the history of the Sui dynasty (A. D. 608 — 622) mention is also made of a tribe Mozin, consisting of fifty hordes, living in the mountains N. W. of the land of JFoke (Japan). A per sonal acquaintance with the Ainoes was not made till the middle of the 7tn cent. (659), when a Japanese embassy brought two Ainoes as curiosities to the court of Tang in China, f As in 'the time of Zin mu ten wo, the greater part ofthe North of Nippon was inha bited by the Eastern savages, the Ainoes , we may with great appearance of probability suppose that tribe has existed there for 2500 years. The north eastern boun dary of their dispersion cannot however be traced far ther than to the second of the Kurils from Kamtschalka , * Compare Nippon 1. u. page 221. t Nippon 1. c. p. 222. ETHNOGRAPHICAL ACCOUNTS. 12 3 Para muschir. On the first of the Kurils , Schnm.schn , a mixture of the. Ainoes with the original tribe of Kamtschadales, the so called Itiilms ook place. These Itiilms however have no similarity with the inhabitants of the southern Kurils, the Ainoes, either in appearance or language; aud these ancient inhabitants of Kam- tschatka inhabited tlie peninsula (having probably in the remotest times come thither from the land S. W„ of the Amur) even before the Tungi and Koriaki who are now established between Kamlschatka and the neigh bouring East Siberia. This great stream was the road of a- pre-historic migration, as it will perhaps become that of European civilisation to the interior of the N E. part of the Chinese empire and of Siberia. The ancient inhabitants of the Baie de Castries, as Lape rouse has described them to us, have much similarity with the Ainoes in appearance, manners and customs. The tribe of the Kileng and the Kelscheng , the former of which inhabit the territory to the W. of the Amur, the valleys watered by the Hingon (Aemgun), and the latter the coast land to the S. E. of the Amur and opposite the island of Kraflo, have also much simila rity in outward appearance, manners and customs with the Ainoes. Thus traces, thousands of years old, ofthe Aino tribe may be discovered along the coast of the continent of Asia; but the imperfect historical and ethnographical accounts which we as yet possess of these regions do not allow us to follow them further to their cradle in the N. E. of K6rai' , and of the S. W. terri tory of the Amur. All that we know of this remar kable people however testifies of its high antiquity. The result of our conjectures amounts to this: in 124 ANTIQUITY OF THE AINOES. the same way as in the pre-historic times the Itiilms the primitive population of Kamtschatka, came to this peninsula, and were afterwards succeeded by another tribe and were driven to the south extremity , it is also probable that in a much earlier time the Aino tribe gradually spread themselves along- the Amur, over the islands so close to the continent (Jeso, the Kurils and Krafto): but -driven back in the N. E. by the Itiilmi who followed them, and iu the N. and N. W. by the Koridki and Tungi (those nomadic fishermen and hunters whom we recognize under the names of Smerengurs and Orotkskoes *), and to the S. dispersed or destroyed by the successors of Zin mu ten wo , have been confined to their present dwelling-place. The annals, which have not come to us, in which the migration of the Aino tribe is described , is of many thousand years date, and yet a ray of civilisation seems to have enlightened it, even in its cradle. In the same way the history of its separation from the rest of the world counts thousands of years, during which no progress either intellectual or social has taken place among them. Under these circumstances, after so many thousand years we still find the Ainoes on the lowest step of patriarchal civilisation which, with their separation from the rest of the world and under the rule of the bold Japanese , they have not had energy enough to go beyond. With such a want of moral energy to be able to refuse the cup of foreign lusts offered them by the polished nations of the west and south, these naturally powerful but innocent creatures * Nippon, 1. c. page 182. THE AINO LANGUAGE. 125 will soon descend to the grave as unnerved and demo ralised as their neighbours the Kamtschadales and North American tribes ! But Laperouse and von Krusenstern have already raised a monument to this kind and brave people: "On ne peut douter qu'ils n'ayent beaucoup de consideration pour les vieillards, et que leurs mceurs ne soient tres- douces; et certainement s'iJs etaient pasteurs, et qu'ils eussent de nombreux troupeaux, je ne me formerais pas une autre idee des usages et des mceurs des pa- triarches." * "Einigkeit, Stille, Gutmiitigkeit , Bereitwilligkeit, Bescheidenheit : alle diese wirklich seltenen Eigen- schaften, die sie keiner verfeinerten Kultur zu verdan- ken haben, sondern welche nur die Gefiihle ihres na- turlichen Charakter sind, machen, dass ich die Aino fur das beste vou alien Volkern halte, dieich bisjetzt kenne." t THE AINO LANGUAGE. * * The few travellers who have visited the Aino countries before the opening of the port of Hakodate, have each brought us a list of words collected from the mouth of that remarkable people. 5 With the exception of the * Voyage de Laperouse, Tom. Ill, p. 40. f Von Krusenstern's Seise um die WeU, Band II, p. 80. § Laperouse, Tom. Ill, p. 40. Broughton, Tom. I, p. 390. Van Langsdorf, Theil I, p. 300. Von Krusenstern, Wbrtersammlung aus der Sprache der Aino (nach Dawidow). St. Petersburg 1813. * * The Italian vowel sounds have been adopted for the pronun ciation of the Japanese and Aino words. 126 CHARACTERISTICS OF TIIE AINO LANGUAGE. collection brought over by Davidow from his expedi tion to the bay of Aniwa in 1807 , and which was most probably composed by a Japanese, they have in them selves but small philological value. The Japanese however, who have had an intercourse with the na tives of Jezo for centuries, carried on trade with them and ruled over them, have gradually made themselves thoroughly acquainted with their language and composed dictionaries in which they sought to render as faithfully as possible, and to fix the pronun ciation of the words by means of their syllable writing (the so called I-ro-hu). * In this manner they have en deavoured by means of writing, to put a stop to the manifold sounds and variable accent to which the dia lect of a far dispersed and illiterate people is so subject. Although the Aino language has become ennobled by familiar intercourse with a civilised people, yet it has preserved its original features and is characterised as a peculiar and independant language, having no con nection with that of any of the neighbouring countries , as far as regards the roots of the words. That some * The learned Mogami Toknai so frequently mentioned in these pages, published an Aino dictionary in 1804, under the title of: Jezo-Fdgen or Mosiho Kusa, and gave ns a corrected M. S. of that work: Jezo ga siraa Kotoba, i.e.: "Language of the island of Jezo." Besides this we have received M. S. collections of words from Ja panese who have been on Jezo. Compare: Nippon, VII, Nachrichten uber Jezo, die Kurilen, Krafto und das Amurland, p. 224 — 244, "Die AinoSprache." Our worthy countryman Isaac Titsingh (Director of the Netherland trade in Japan from 1780—1784) also made a col lection of above a hundred Aino words which he has added to his des cription of the land of Jeso, compiled from original Japanese books. Description de la terre Jeso, iraduite du Japonnais , par feu M. Tit singh, in: Annates des Voyages, par Malte-Brun. Tom. XXIV, p. 145. ITS DISSYLLABIC CONSTRUCTION. 127 foreign words have been introduced from the northwest and northern nations (Samojedes, Tungi and Kamtscha- dales) with whom the Ainoes had intercourse, is not to be denied, any more than that they have naturalised many Japanese words, signifying objects and ideas formerly unknown to them. The Aino-iauguage, as the tribe itself, stands isolated from all the others of the N. E. of Asia, for so far as they are yet known. The general rules however according to which the parts of speech are declined and conjugated, agree with those of their southern, northern and western neighbours, who write their language syllabically (so as the Mant schous, Mongols, Tubetans, Jakules etc.) and not fi guratively , that is to say, signs for words (as the Chinese). It will be sufficient here to give and illustrate by exam ples the general presiding grammatical, principles which the Aino language has in common with the Japanese, and thus with other East Asiatic and American lan guages, and which, though they bear witness of a very ancient source, point to a link in the chain of nations, which afterwards opened the way from the old to the new world. 1. The words of both languages are seldom composed of one, generally of two syllables: Japanese. Kono-aita oki-kata otto-sewo tatsuneta. Aino. Ofunaki atni-ta uneu is'tan. Nuper in mare phocam quaesivi. 2. The Substantives are without gender, are more frequently used in the singular than in the plural; in the latter number the words are repeated or have some addition; the cases are generally formed by a particle PRONOUNS AND VERBS. 129 Aino. Sinepp, 1; tupp, 2; repp, 3; inepp, 4; asiki- nepp, 5; iwanbe, 6; aruwanbe, 7; thupe sjanbe, 8; (ex tupp et sjan; forsan pro i wanbe, i. e. minus de cern); sineb sjan, 9 (ex sinepp et sjan); wanbe, 10: hots', 20; asikinepp-hots' , 100; (i. e. 5, 20); sinepp ikasima (plus, verbatim: restaf) wanbe, 11; tupp ika- sima wanbe, 12; sinepp ikasima hots', 21; tuppots', (ex tupp el hots') 40 ; wanbe i rehots', 50 ; (3/20 — 10.) 5. The pronouns. The personal are different according to the rank (a mark of refined manners); the third person is a circumlocution. The possessives are formed by affixing the genitive termination, and always stand before the substantive. Jap. Watak's sive ware, ego; omae sive anata, tu; kare sive ano fito (iste homo) ille; watak's domo sive warera, nos; omae gata sive anata gata, vos; karera sive ano fito tats', illi; watak's'no, meus; anata no, tuus; ano fito no, illius; watak's'no atama, mei caput. Aino. Ku, kuani, ego; e, iani, tu; iki sja an gur* (ex iki sja, illinc, an esse, et guru, homo) ille; tsjo kai (i.e. hac parte), ego; i tsjo kai i. e. ex ilia parte) tu; ku koro, meus; i-koro, tuus; iki sja an gur', illius, vel tangur, huius. I koro kotan , meum domicilium; tan gur' tsise, huius hominis domus. 6. The verbs. The active verbs have three tenses formed by a change of termination : 1. a present tense , in Japanese with the termination u, in the Aino lan- guege an, hi, re, u; 2 a past, mostly in a; 3 a fu ture or potential , formed in Japanese by a lengthening of the present tense, in the Aino by affixing a particle. The passive verbs have also three tenses formed by a prolongation of the terminations, which in the Aino 130 VERBS AND PREPOSITIONS. language appear to be passive auxiliary verbs. The imperative is distinguished by brevity of termination. The indefinite is the same as the present of the indi cative; in the Aino language, a particle resembling a pronoun is frequently used instead. The mood is formed by affixing the particle which governs it. The negations are joined to the verbs in Japanese and fre quently cause a change of construction , in the Aino language the negation is not marked by the particle. Particles are affixed to the tenses in order to form the participles. Auxiliaries are used in the conjugation of the verbs and have the same conjugation as other verbs ; impersonal verbs are seldom used , and for those in use with us , a circumlocution is employed. Jap. Utsu, verbero; utsita, verberavi; utsou, verbe- rabo; ntaruru, verberor; utareta, verberatus; utareu, verberabor; ntside, verberans; utse, verbera; utareta, verberate; utsu, verberare; watak's'ga sorewomiru joni, ut id ipse videam; utanu, non verbero; utanu te atta, non verberavi; utareru, non verberor; utareru te atta, non verberatus sum ; aru , esse ; arita , fui ; aro , ero ; ame-ga furu, pluit (verbatim pluvia decedit). Kamin- ari-ga nari, intonal (Deus fulminans adest). Aino. Sitaiki, verbero; sitaiki wa, verberavi; sitaiki rusjui, verberabo; sitaiki aniki , verberor ; sitaiki ank' wa, verberatus sum; sitaiki anki annan gora, verberabor; I (tu) sitaiki, verbera; kakure, veni; i sitaiki anki , verbe rare; rura-jan, ut sequatur; unono s'jomo au, non con- gruit , (verbatim congruum non est) ; anats', habens; asinike vta,existens; an, habere, esse: anna, fui; an nan koro, fuero; asi, factum est. Apto asi, pluit (verbatim, pluvia facta est). Kamui fumi, intonat (verbatim ' Deus sonat). AINO DIALOGUES. 131 7. The prepositions, as also the conjunctions indi cative of an aim and giving a reason, are placed at the end of the words to which they relate, without causing any change in them. Jap. Ni, ad; to, cum; niiote, quia ; joni , ut ; jokka maeni watak's wa desi to jama ni juita, quatuor ante dies cum discipulo monlem ascendi. Aino. Anf, cum; kusju, propter; jakka, quamvis; tanbe kusju, propter hanc rem; tsib ani, cum nave; atui kata, in mare. AINO DIALOGUES. Some Aino dialogues may serve for an example of the construction and idiom: Ikoro kotan siri monosiri anna? Ofunaki atui-kata reba uneuistan. Tsibu ani rurajan ilasja bunma tutara atte nankonna. Hosike onumani tan kotanta heroki athuwa. Keannak' hauM an koratsi an? Sinanta uvvekariwa bunkine rejan. Tewnn sisjamu anakine asijur asi rutske askai nena. Osi sireba kusju sjomo osjaganke jakka pirikana. Tan ithuikari bajasi aiine nekona kotan ana? Kamui juwanke tsib' jankena. Ohono sjomo unukara. Weve kappirika ariiamande tsumi itsikore nangonna. Is all well at home? Lately sailing on sea I caught seals. Send this by the ship, I ivill reward you with two sacks (of rice). The day before yesterday there were fishes here. Is it as you say? Come here together to keep watch. The man, who must keep watch here, will ask a great reward. There he comes, has one not to call him. This point following , to what place comes one? With God's help is the ship pre served. Long not seen. Who evil does is punished. 9* 132 COLLECTION OF AINO WORDS. Pirika gnni kururau an. It will so very good be. Ponno osite tsimi anbe ama. Wait a little, I am dressing. Teirean gnsitapf nani afunkeja. I expect you, come in. Nefutsi jokibene sjanke nankoro If they good wares are, 'I give a tasju kamitatsi sinetara sjokoru. sack of rice for them. Uteke anbano uhihibai sen. ' . To each other the hand giving, the one follows the other. Nepu karukuse jaibasjare? Why make you quarrel? Mokoroi kottetsu uwatasi. As I will re3t, be still. Ramukanbare tsiriusi. , That is broader "than one thinks. Iteke jaibaro usi. ; . ; ; Nothing unnecessary to speak. ., COLLECTION OE AINO WOEDS. We have given a selection of Aino words , as well with the intention of giving a hint by philological sources for following the traces of the origin of this remarkable old tribe, as to afford navigators and tra vellers an opportunity for a closer examination of this nearly unknown language. We have also given the signification of the Aino words in Japanese, on the authority of natives of that country who have made a study of the Aino language. The Aino words of Jezo we have for the greater part taken from Toknai's dic tionary, and those oi Krafto from the glossaries of Dawidow and Laperouse. i NOMINA. 1 '1. The World and the Elements. ' '' nglish. . Japanese. Aino on Jeso. Aino on Krafto Air. K. pariri. Atmosphere. sora. nisoro. COLLECTION OF AINO WORDS 135 English. Japanese. Aino on Jezo. Aino on Kraflo Female. wonna. menoko (Jap.) minoko. Flower. bana. ebui. ibuiki. Fly. hai, apu. fitsurube. hitsurup. Forest. hajasi. leigur. Fruit. mi. ebuike. ibuiki. Heart. jani. unkotok'. Hen. me. matsnc. Herb. kusa. kina. Hide. kawa. kabu. kapu. Horn. tsuno. kirau. Leaf. fa. hamu. ehamu. Louse. sirami . uruki, liii. uriku. Male. woloko. okkai. okkai. Man. hito. sisjam, aino. guru. Meat. nik. kam. kam. Milk. tsitsinosiru. tobe. t6. Oil. abura. sjumu. Root. ne. kuberikep,sinsits schyndshiz. Serpent. hebi. tokko (kamoi) toko kamoi.. Train (oil). kusinano abura. funbei. funbikii. Turtle. kame. itsinke. Vermin. musi. kikiri. Mgiri. Wood. ki, ita. tsikuni, ita, ta. ziguni, ida. 3. The Body and Members. English. Japanese. Aino on Jezo. Aino on Krafto Back. senaka. sethuru. scheduru. Beard. kutsihige. reki. rigi. Belly. hara. honi. chuni. Breast (chest). mune. terar. Breasts. tsitsi. tokab. to. Cunnus. tsubi. pogi (hokki). Ear. mimi. kisijara, kischara. Entrails. tai tjo. kankam. Eye. me. siki. schiki. ,, -. Face. kaho. nanu. nanu., •, ..> Finger. jubi. asikibette. askibitz. Foot. asi. kema. kima. 136 COLLECTION OF AINO WORDS. English. Japanese. Aino on Jezo. Aino on Krafto. Hand. te. teke, teki. tegi, tike. Hair (ofthe head; ) kaminoke. ottobe, numa. schaba numa. Head. atama. bake. schaba. Heart. kokoro. sjanbe, sampeh. schambi. Lip. kutsibiru. hatoje, tsjamon. Mouth. kutsi. baru, tsjaro. paru. Nail. tsume. am, ami. Navel. hoso. hankapui. changuhui. Neck. kubi. rekuts. regut. Nose. hand. ethu, ito. idu. Penis. mara. tsii, tsije. Skin. hadaje. nuwom' kumukasi- Tail. wo. isi. (ke Tongue. sita. be barunbe ba- rumbi. au. Tooth. ha. imaki, jumaki. nimaki. Wing. hakae. rafn. 4. Relations, Society. English. Japanese. Aino on Jezo. Aino on Kr aflo. Aunt. oba. konnaripe. Brother, eldest, . ani. jubi. jubu. * youngest . wototo. iriwaki, aki. aki. Chief (prince). kami. mosiri kamoi. Child. kotomo. bo, boho. po. Countryman. fijak'sjo. toitasisiamo. Crew. funakata. tsipo guru. Criminal. aku nin. ujen gur. uwen. Daughter. menoko. matsihebo. mazenebn. Enemy. teki. tomautare. Father. tsitsi. hanbe. chambi. Family. sin rni. awa. Grandson. mago. sitsupopo, imitsu- bon. Governor. matsi bugjo. matsijantono. Grandfather. zizi. ikasi, sasa. chambi. Grandmother. baba. sjunsti, hakko. Husband. otto. hoku. chogu . 138 COLLECTION OF AINO WOKDS. 6. Tools, etc. English. Japanese. Aino on Jeso. Aino on Krafto. Anchor. ikari. kaje. kaida. Axe. masakari. mukkari. mukar. Arrow. ja. ai. ai. Bow. jumi (kin). gu , kusi , kunisi. guu ku. Bow-string. tsuru. ,;guka. kuga. Coat. kimono. , mi (atsni). imi, atush. Dress. kimono. .. tsimipu. imi. Ear-ring. mimikaue. ninkari. < ninkari. Eelspear. jasu. opn, nrei Fishingrod. tsuribari. beraje, perai. apf , pira. Harpoon. i jasu. opu, nrei. opf. Knife. kokadana. ibira, makiri. magiri. Mast. tobasira. kajani. kaiani. Net. ami. jaa. ia. Quiver. ¦ jabako. ikajup. igaiupf , ikjup. Rope. tsnna. thubi, tosi. Rudder. ro. osjui. Sail.' fo. kaja. kaia. Shed. kasa. kakka, kasja. chaka. Ship. fune. tsip'. zibi. Sledge. sori. sikeni. Spear, pike. jari. fumi, paro. .kuu. 7. Actions, effects. English. Japanese. Aino on Jezo. Aino on Krafto. Beginning. hazime. asinno. aschino. Compassion. itsukusimi. komebur' koneburu. Death. sini. rai. rai End. owari. ohari. Grief. mukkasiki. ramuikasite. oschiora. Happiness. • sjawase. - jainirikarai. Hatred. ; nikumi. , ,' jesisi. Health. sukujaka, suko jaka ramurakke. katschara-schino. Hearing. kiku. nu. nu. COLLECTION OF AINO WORDS. 139 English. Japanese. Aino on Jezo. Aino on Kraflo. Hunger. fimozi. kemuramu. kemurampa. Illness. jamai. tasijumu, ikoni, siju. Joy. mendo, ahare. jakatar Life. inotsi. sikkinoka. schikfnu. Love. ko'i. usikkarahare. Misfortune. ing'wan jaikohonnojeje. Motion, vital f ugoki. moi moi. moi moi. power. ( inotsi. , sikkisa. Rest. jasumi. sini. Sight. miruzi. nukaru. nugarn. Smell. niwoi. fura. furaan. Strength. tsikara. okira , tsumikoru . usira. Suffering. kurusimi. ihomasii. Taste. aziwai. kera, kewoan. Thirst. nodonokahaki. igursjui. igurusch. Voice. koje. hauje. chan. War. ikusa. tomi. Weakness. jowasa. schiari. 8. Properties, Qualities. English. Japanese. Aino on Jezo. Aino on Kraflo. Bitter. nigai. balkar, sju. parakara. Black. kuroi. kunne. kunni. Blue. aho. sijei. Broad. hiroi. tsiwa, tsiriusi. uscbip. Cold. samni. jamu, mei, mean . mei. Deep. fukai. ohoho, oho. ogo. Dry. karetaru. sjats'. schats. { kobaisi. t nihofu. furapiurka. Fragrant. furara karu. Great. oho. poro. poro. Green. ' mitori. tsuisjamu. schiusiam. Heavy. womoi. base, pase. paschi. High. takai. riiwa, ri. L. riuwa. Humble. asasi. ohaku. ngakfu. Lean. jase. sjatteku. 6chattigu. Left. fidari. hari kiuturu. charik. COLLECTION OF AINO WORDS 141 English. Japanese. Aino on Jezo. Aino on Krafto. To laugh. warafu. mina. mina. • lay. jasumu. sini. schine. » live. inotsi aru. sikkinu. schikfnu. f pain. itamu. itasjasja. • row. funewokogu. tsipu. zipowa. » run. hasiru. hojubu. chojubu. ' see. miru. nukar. nogaro. » sing. utau. jflgari. iukgari. » sleep. nemuru. mokoro. mojuru. » speak. itakn. itakuwa. idawuwa. ' stand. tatsn. rosike. rosehki. » steal. nusurnu. ikka. ikka. " walk. ajumu. apukasi. apkas. » weep. naku. tsitsi. tsitsiwa, zijssiwa. 10. Personal Pronouns. English. Japanese. I watak's ware\ You (familiar), karera. You, omai, anata. He. kare, ano fito. Ye. omai gata. We. watak's domo. Aino on Jezo. Aino on Krafto. kn , kuannit , tsjo- kani tschogai. inki angur. (kai. anu udari. iani, i, itsjokai. jani itschogai. iki sja angur' (ille) iioro. inki utare. itschogai udari. tsjo kai utare. toogai udare. 11. Demonstrative Pronouns. English. Japanese. Aino on Jezo. Aino on Krafto. These. 'kono. tan, tanbe , ane. ani. Those. sono. pu. This. kore. tapu. Each. koto. kesi. keschi. Who. sore. neni. nini, neu. Which. itsure. ikijaan. Snch. sajo. keannari , 142 COLLECTION OF AINO WORD S 12. Numerals. Engl. Japanese. Aino on Jezo. Aino on Krafto. 1 fitots'. sinepp, sine-, schinep L. schnepf. ¦<¦•¦} 2 ftats". -"" thupp thu: "" • ..<- tapf tup. i t, - a mits'. repp, reepu L. 'repf. .--.--.. ,'. 4 " jots'. ' *' "" inepp, inepu L. inepf. ;¦-' 5 itsuts'. "' asikinepp, aschikinepn L. aschikinipf. fi rnuts'. • " "¦ • v iwanbe. ¦ " •'* :' jnwambi. --,_','' ¦¦ >.. -v 7 nanats''."- ,;- aruwanbe. "- ' aruwambi. :'''.' v 8 jats'. thupe sjanbe. tnbi schambi. '¦> ' 9 kokonots*. sineb sjan. " schnebi schambi. 10 to (towo). wanbe. wambi. . ¦¦¦¦ 20 hatats (nisju) . hots, chozn L. scheehoz, choz. 50 gosju. wanbe i rehots. wambi irichoz. 100 momo. asikne hots. ; aschi nichoz. 1000 tsi. asiMne sine wane hots i. e. aschi kini sehine wane 5: 10. 20. choz. 1st. itsiban. teppakke. 2rd. niban. nosike. ¦-.'>¦ '.-'..i.^n n.,t 3ra. ' sanban. reth tanta, reptanta. ¦¦ : ,l y .u , ,: Once. itst do. sine sjui. schiui. '• • Twice. ni do. thusjui. schini. 13. Adverbs. English. Japanese. Aino on Jeso. Aino on Krafto. Afterwards. sonotsugi. imakake. At present. ima. tane. tani. ¦'""' At last. tsoini. aine. •'* Formerly. mukasi. fusiko. Gradually. ohi ohi. nbi ubi. ja ja nkere. Here. koko. tan kotan ta. changino. How much. iku. henbakkuno. "• chimbaguno. ' Lately. kono aida. ': tetai. ' -c './., ,;„>.. More. mato. sijni. schiui. No. ija. kotsjan, kobau. Not. nu. sjomo. schiomo. Now. ima. tane. tani. 146 TUE ANIMAL KINGDOM. MAMMILLARIA. Fish -Otter. *Lutra vulgarisF. J. Sea-Otter. ?Enydris marina. Wolf. Canis lupus. Fox. * » vulpis. argeu- tatus. Isjamani. Kawa uso. Bakko, Binnep Sakko. (mas). Ose kanmi. Ohokami. Fure tsup , i. e. Kilsne. vulpis rubra. Kunne sjumari i.e. vulpis ni gra. » •- lupis variet. Silhunpi. Siltukpeu (Kur „ « » variet. Tsironop. Dog. » domesticus. Sita , seta. Kari inu. Cat. Felis Catus. Meko. Neko. Tanuki. Nictereutes vive- rinus F. J. Mojuku. Tanuki. - Canis? procyoides F.J. Numari. Hare. Lepus brachyurus F. J. ? Isjabo. Usagi. Squirrel. *Sciurus varius. Niuf. IVogatsuki. - striped. *Tamias striatu3. Kasi kiri gusi. Sima nezumi. Rat. Mus spec. maj. Irimo. Nezumi. Mouse. •i a min. Pon irimo. Tanezumi. Hart *Cervus sika F. J. Juk , Binnero (mas). Sika. F.J. momanbe (foem). Chamois. -f-Antilope crispa'. Jukusisi. Niku. Reindeer. *CervusTarandus. Thunakm. Barok' (Chin.) Musk. *Moschus moschi- ferus F. J. Likon kamui. Nora , Kusika. Wild swine. Sus leuco mystax F.J. Woltomun. § Inosisi. Chinese pig. » sinensis. Wosju furokke. Buta. § Tbe following names are also given to pigs or wild swine and probably have some reference to sex , etc. , aud to which we wish to draw the attention of travellers : woun-ommetousi, woun- hikata and woun-momorum. THE ANIMAL KINGDOM. BIRDS. 149 is so large that it could devour a whale. Nothing farther of it has however been seen than its back. This fable is probably founded on the large shoals of Avhales or dolphins common to those seas; they also relate that the Avhales are pursued and killed by a dolphin much like the Iruka (Delphinus Orca) , called by the Japanese Kami kiri i. e. sawfish. Birds. In proportion to the number of birds known in East Siberia, Kamtschatka and Japan, * the number of those observed by European naturalists and the Ja panese on Jezo and Krafto is but small. These are: Falcon. Falco communis. Tsirikoiki (Aino) Taka (Jap.) Hawk. Astnr nisns. Kunkuth. Fiiaka. Ice-hawk. » » albus. Telari Kunkuth. Usu kohoriiaka. - Spizaetes orien- Tekku. Horo taka. talis. . Fish eagle. Haliaetos pelagi- Kala tsiri, Sa- Iso wasi. CUS F. J. tupf. Sea eagle. » albicilla. Sira lupf. Waba wasi. „ Pandion Haliae- Pgoak. Kak Kuso wono wasi. tus orieutalis? (Kamtsch.) Kite. Buteo Japouicus Jaiiowe. Sima tobi. Eared Owl. p. J. Otns semitorques (Kamui isi Kapf Mimitsuk. p. J. •J i. e. Ghost Hooting » Strii bubo. ( bird. Caliope. Silvia Caliope. Hokitsi. Nokoma. Nightingale. » ael Lucio - la spec. Bakekijo. ' Vgubisn ? Wag-tail. Modacilla lugens Baikaisiri. Sekuro sekirei. - p. J. . spec. Tokhakun. * Compare Nippon, VII, 1... page 254 sq., where a list is given of the birds found by Pallas, von Kittlitz and von Middendorff in those regions. 150 THE ANIMAL KINGDOM. BIRDS. Tomtit. Parus major. Fuksalsiri. Sisjukara. Longtailed-tit. *¦ caudatusvar. Matsumal-Jen aha. House sparrow. Fringilla domes- tica. Amanitsikapf. Suzume. Lark. Alauda alpestris Sikinlsiri. Fibari. Blackbird. F. J. Turdus spec. Sike. Muku. Starling. Sturnus cinera- Jezo-muku. Raven. nus. Corvus Japonen- Hasikuro. sis. Crow. a Corone? Jeppirka. Magpie. Pica varia. Blue woodpecker. GarrulusBrandtii Barken. King-fisher. Alcedo spec. Ijami. Picus awokera Isokisoki. Cuckoo. p. J. Cuculus canorus. Toppits. House pigeon. Columba domes- Toita. tica. «• gelastris p. J. KusjujeV. Green pigeon. « Sieboldiip. J. Thuihuls'. Chicken. Gallus domestica. Quail. Coturnix vulgaris var. P. J. Bustard. Otis tarda? XTtakan. Parrot plunger. 0 Area torda ) ... \ Aiujuitsikapf. a monoceros. ) n Marmon cirrhata Jeppirika. Plunger. Podiceps spec. Aplolsikapf. n a a Wakkatoitoi. » Colymbus spec. Imolon. Carbobicristatus. Uriri. Wild duck. Anas boscbas. Sikobelsja. Winter teal. a crecea. Kobettsja. Duck. » spec. Thura. Karasu. Kasasai.Kasilori. Kagesu. Awokera. Hotodokis. Ijebalo. Jamabato. Awobato. Niwa tori. Vsura. Nogan. Viov,. Ame tori. Aisa Kamo. Sirnan. Makamo.Kakomo. Kakkari. Kobe. Kakkjo. 152 THE ANIMAL KINGDOM. REPTILES. Turtle. Emys v. Trionyx. Itsinke (Aino). Game (Jap.) Newt. Stincus quinque- Haran. Tokage. lineatus P. 3. Snake. Coluber qnadri- Hasikuro kamoi. Kurokutsinaba. . ,!..-; :.". virgatus p. J. » Coluber virgatus Fugowoka. Mugi wara febi. p. j. ', ,v. ..... ¦>- ¦• Adder. .-. -. :r-, . Trigonocephaly . ¦' Tokko kamoi. Mamusi. "¦' Blomhoflip.j. .'•.--'- » . '..-' Trichonocephalns Tanne Kamoi. ' Siro febi. spec. - ,:-' » , ,.,'tv » . m \ Kinasitonkur' . Common toad. Bufo vulgaris P. 3. Terekeibe. Kaheru'. Green frog. Rana esculenta Toron kamoi. Kawadsu. P. 3. Frog. » spec. »• Kekketsch. ' : » » rugosa p. j. Woats'. ¦ Tsutsikaheru. Tree-frog. Hyla arborea P. J. Kokekets. Awogaheru. » » ? spec. /ii. Water salamander. Triton spec. ¦ Wimori. They also speak of a sort of Seal Silhu-Kari resem bling a tortoise , probably a sort of Sphargis mercurialis or Chelonia, which is sometimes Avashed on to the shores of Jezo by hurricanes or by the streaming of the sea. Pishes. The accounts of the immense quantities of fish observed by the old Duch navigators along the coasts, and especially at the mouths of the rivers of the land of Jezo, do not seem exaggerated when we compare them with what modern navigators tell us of certain kinds of fish, such as salmon, herring and sardinias, in the northern part of the sea of Japan , in the so-called Gulf. of Tartary and in the sea of Ochotsk and Kamtschatka. They also speak of shoals of fish stopping up the mouths of the rivers and esti mate the quantity by ship's cargoes. The same is told THE ANIMAL KINGDOM. FISHES. 15E Roach. Salmon. Salmon. Herring. Sturgeon.Shark. Skate. Lamprey. CvpriDusconiros- Suwokom. Funa. tris P. J. Hemir amplius Funbe deppo. Sajori. sajori p. j. Salmo lagocepha Sibe. Sake. lus. • Proteus. Sjankenbe. Mazu. ' sanguino- TJrupp. Beni-Maza. lentus. •t spec. Tsirai. Ilo. " " Hemoi. Tsjarokun. . Wowo. Saurus? Tsuppo. Vkui. Saurus? Ururui. Kusaki uwo. Clupea gracilis Ponsepp. Iwasi. p. J. ? Heroki. Kado v. Nisin. Tetraodon spec. Akamkorbe. Eugu. a i Jursi kasepp. Orthagosiscusmo- Hinabo. la p. J. Acipenser Helous. Mustelus vulgaris. Wonne. Trijgon AkajeiF.J. Aitsi korbe. Raja? Karma. Tsikobakui. Ihessjarkorbe. Nukaribe. Heptastema cir rhatum P. 3. Petromyzon camt- Sjumarop schaticus * Manbo, Wani. Akajei.Same. Jodamusi. Jats me-unagi. Some Aino names of fishes we have not been able to identify; these are: Inunbeibe, Takutaku; Siribokke, * The Kamtscbatdale Lamprey has but seven spiracula; the Ja panese however call it Jats'me-unagi, i. e. eight eyed eel and count the eve on each side with the seven spiracula; It is therefore also a Beplaslema. 156 THE ANIMAL KINGDOM. M0LI.USKS. Sjokorsepp, Fur arid, Rannibe, Kasinube, Poutoksi. Mo Husks. The mollusca Ave know of the Aino lands are mostly such as are eaten there or collected for the Japan trade; these are: Cuttlefish. Oysters. Muscle. Octopus areolatus. Athui nau (Aino) Tako (Jap.) a granulatus. Athui ne. Iiea tako. Sepia japonica. Fussanna. Ika. ? Pasiani. Sepiola ? Most tanbe. Loligo brevis? Mattsijana. Ostrea spec. Biba. Kaki. Pecten. » Asikedekke. Tadekai. u » Akkelesei. Pina. u Apnisei. Kami. Mytilus spec. Hankatsjui. Ikai. Cardium » Tsjakenai. Akakai. a a Teibojetsup. Sizimi. U 11 Tsiurp. Venus. a Iasibebols. Sira famakuri. tt n Herenasi. n a Kaburasei. it n Heurokke. Asari. « Urukke. Haliotis japonica. Aibe. Awabi. Some other mollusks are also mentioned: Pelsi, Tsitani, Trusjunke, Kanputh, Rafutsjuke, Simabara- tets, Sikikemsjui. The Tripang fishery on Jezo (there called Kakurautn , and by the Japanese Irigo or Kingo) is very important. Edible lote named Knrage is also col lected and dried there. Crustacea. The feAV species of Crustacea we have been able to identify from Japanese sources as belong ing to the Aino lands, afibrd very important results for their geographical extent. We there find mentioned the rare Grapsns Japonicus P. I. (called Anbajaja in CRUSTACEA AND INSECTS. 157 the Aino language, and Dsu gani in Japan) which inhabits the rivers of Jezo, aud the gigantic sea crab Inachus kaempferi P. J. (Murikana (Aino) Sima gani or Taka asi-gani, i. e. long legged crab (Jap.) ) dis covered by us on the east coast of Japan. This mon ster crab, of which Engelbert Kaempfer figured an arm, and the renowned Steller also found an arm. in the Gulf of Alutora in Kamtschalka sufficient to satisfy a hungry man, * is sometimes also found on the coast of Jezo, and it is affirmed that it sometimes attains the size of eight or ten Sjak (feet). The largest Ave ever saAv had arms (Chelae) four feet long. One also finds there a Palinurus, Holokerki (Aino) Jebi (Jap); the Astacus Japonicus, Tekunbe korbe; a Squilla i7