Nineveh and its remainsAusten Henry Layard LIBRARY or THE PEABODY MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ARCHAEOLOGY AND ETHNOLOGY Gift or CHARLES P. BOWDITCH (Class of 1863) dº-Z Received 3? &asy.” % /7/4. N IN E W E H ITS REMAINS. VOL. II. London: A. and G. A. Spottiswoopk, New-street-Square. NINEVEH AMD ITS REMAINS: WITH AN ACCOUNT OF A VISIT TO THE CHALDEAN CHRISTIANS OF KURDISTAN, AND THE YEZEDIS, OR DEVIL-WORSHD7PERS; AND AN ENQUIRY INTO THE MANNERS AND ARTS OF THE ANCIENT ASSYRIANS. BY AUSTEN HENRY LAYARD, ESQ. D.C.L. "She saw men pourtrayed upon the wall, the images of the Chaldeans pourtrayed with Tennllion. "Girded with girdles upon their loins, exceeding in dyed attire upon their h'ads, all of them princes to look to, after the manner of the Bahylonians of Chaldea, the land of their nattritr." EzEKiai.. Mill. 1*. 1»' SIXTH EDITION. IN TWO VOLUMES. —VOL. II. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1854. uouem * 1apirºuliniiſqpºluluu ſº vg | ſoous alueuraniw fel inw. ullor · @{A} N IN E V E H AND ITS REMAINS : WITH AN ACCOUNT OF A VISIT TO THE CHALDAEAN CHRISTIANS OF KURDISTAN, AND THE YEZIDIS, OR DEVIL-WORSHIPPERS; AND AN ENGUIRY INTO THE MANNERS AND ARTS OF THE ANCIENT ASSYRIANS. BY AUSTEN HENRY LAYARD, ESQ. D.C.L. Z º º Ǻ -- : saw men pourtrayed upon the wall, the images of the Chaldeans pourtrayed with vermilion. “Girded with girdles upon their loins, exceeding in dyed attire upon their heads, all of them Fº to look to, after the manner of the Babylonians of Chaldea, the land of their nativity.” Ezekiel, xxiii. 14, 15. SIXTH EDITION. IN TWO WOLUMES. – WOL. II. LONDON : JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1854. A S. Luso 6 o' Gºd (c. P. lºquºddº, }. Floºr. 1 #,1% CONTENTS THE SECOND VOLUME. CHAPTER XL Death of Tahyar Pasha. Excavations carried on. Discoveries in the North-west Palace. New Chambers and Bas-reliefs. Ivory Ornaments and Cartouches with Hieroglyphics. Painted Chambers. Pottery. Discovery of upper Chambers. Paintings on the Walls. Pavement Slabs. Discoveries in the Centre of the Mound. Tombs containing Vases and Ornaments. Their Egyptian Character. Bas-reliefs collected together. Descrip- tion of the Sculptures. Further Discoveries in the South-west Edifice. Crouching Sphinxes. Sculptures. A Description of the Bas-reliefs. Small Figures in unbaked Clay. A Beam of Wood. Discovery of more Tombs in the South-east Corner — of Chambers beneath them — of an arched or vaulted Boom. Discoveries in various Parts of the Mound - - Page 1 CHAP. xn. Excavations undertaken at Kalah Sherghat. Departure for the Rains. Senidij. The Bitumen Pits. Abd'rubboa. My Reception. Reach the Rains. Fears of the Workmen. Dis- covery of a sitting Figure. Arab Encampment. Arab Life. Excavations in the Mound. Discovery of Tombs. Remains of Building. Description of the Mounds. Return to Nimroud 44 vi CONTENTS. CHAP. XIII. System of Irrigation adopted by the ancient Assyrians. Want of' Rain. Fears for the Crops. Preparations for the Removal of a winged Bull and winged Lion. Construction of a Cart. Surprise of the Natives. Discovery of a Bas-relief—of a Drain. Lower- ing of the winged Bull. Its Removal from the Ruins. Excite- ment of the Arabs. Rejoicings in the Village. The Bull dragged down to the River. The removal of the Lion. Discon- tent amongst the Arabs. They leave the Ruins. Rafts prepared for the Transport of the Sculptures to Busrah. The Lion and Bull placed upon them. Their Departure from Nimroud. Return of the Arabs. Excavations commenced in the Pyramid. Con- clusion of the Excavations at Nimroud. General Description of the Ruins ------ Page 68 CHAP. XTV. Excavations planned at Kouyunjik. Leave Nimroud. Remove to Mosul. Discovery of a Building in Eouyunijik. Bas-reliefs. General Description of the Sculptures. Excavations carried on by Mr. Ross. His Discoveries. Bas-reliefs. A sculptured Slab and Sarcophagus. Preparations for my Return to Con- stantinople. Leave Mosul - - - - 115 PART IT. CHAP. I. Materials for the History of Assyria. Comparative Dates of Monuments. Assyrian Writing. The Cuneiform. Its Varieties. Assyrian Records. Writing Materials. Monumental Records, Bricks and Tiles. Progress in Deciphering. Assyrian Monu- ments of various Periods. The Ivory Ornaments. Cartouches. Connection between Assyria and Egypt. Historical Evidence of Period of Ninus. The Assyrian Dynasties. The Tombs at Nimroud. Antiquity of Nineveh - - - 153 CONTESTS. TU CHAP. IX Semitic Origin of the Assyrians. Identification of the Site of Nineveh. Dimensions of the City. Architecture of the Assy- rians. Their first Cities. Building Materials. '.San-dried Bricks. Alabaster. Painted Walls. The Roof and Ceiling. Knowledge of Vaulting and the Arch. Pavement and Drains. Description of an Assyrian Palace. The sculptured and pic- torial Records. The Nature of the Buildings discovered^in Assyria. Exterior Architecture. Private Houses. Absence of the Column. Walls of the Cities. Their Towers and Gate- ways ------ Page 236 CHAP. III. The Arts amongst the Assyrians. Their Origin. Connection between Assyrian and Greek Art. The Assyrian Origin of Persian Art. Its Passage into Asia Minor. The Lycian Sculptures. Various Greek Ornaments and Forms borrowed from Assyria. Taste of Assyrians displayed in Embroideries, Arms, and personal Ornaments—in domestic Furniture—in Vessels of Gold and Silver. Paintings. Ezekiel's Description of painted Bas-reliefs. Colours used by the Assyrians. Their Dyes. Materials for Sculpture. Alabaster or Mosul Marble. Limestone and Basalt. Knowledge of Mechanics. The Pulley. Mode of Transport of Blocks of Stone - 290 CHAP. IV. Costume of the Assyrian Kings. Their Arms. The Eunuchs. Their Dress. The History of Parsondes. Officers of State. The Warriors. Their Armour. Their Costume. Spearmen. Archers. Helmets. Arms. Slingers. Shields. Regular Troops. Chariots. Harness and Caparison of the Horses. Cavalry. Horses ..... 319 CHAP. V. Military System of the Assyrians. Magnitude of their Armies. Their Pomp. Sieges. The Battering-ram and other Engines of War. Mode of Defence. Scaling the Walls. Sack of a City. Vlll CONTENTS. Treatment of the Captives and of the City. Knowledge of Ship- building. Earliest Vessels. Later Vessels, as represented at Khorsabad and Kouyunjik. Enemies of the Assyrians — distin- guished by their Dress. Armenians and Parthians or Persians. Captives and Tribute from India. The Arabs. The Jews. The Babylonians. The Phoenicians. Northern Nations. Identifi- cation of Enemies of the Assyrians with those of the Egyp- tians ...... Page 362 CHAP. VI. Private Life of the Assyrians. Public Festivals. Music. Manu- factures. Embroideries and Carpets. Metals. Gold and Silver. Iron and Copper. Ivory. Glass. Agriculture. Domestic Animals. Wild Animals. The Lion. The Wild Bull. The Ibex. Hunting. Parks or Paradises. Wild Animals brought as Tribute. The Bactrian Camel, Elephant, and Bhinoceros. Monkeys and Apes. Birds. Fish. Trees - - 409 CHAP. VH. Beligion of the Assyrians. Distinctions between earliest and latest Periods. Sabaeanism and Worship of the Heavenly Bodies. Identity of Assyrian and Persian Systems of Fire-worship. The Chaldaeans. Religious Emblems in the Sculptures. The winged Figure in the Circle Baal or Belus. Hera, Venus, or Astarte. Bhea. Nisroch or eagle-headed God. The Gryphon. Winged Bulls and Lions. The Sphinx. Mythological Figures. Sym- bolic Figures of Ezekiel. Oannes or the Man-fish. Fire-worship. The Magi. Flowers and sacred Emblems. Influence of Beligion on public and private Life. Mode of Burial Tomb of Ninus. Death and Tomb of Sardanapalus. Conclusion - - 439 LIST OF PLATES, WOODCUTS, AND PLANS. VOLUME II. Procession of the Bull beneath the Mound of Nimroud. Frontispiece. The King. (N. W. Palace, Nimroud.) Facing page 7. Plan 4. Upper Chambers on the West Side of the Mound. (Nimroud.) In page 14. Enemy asking Quarter of Assyrian Horsemen. (S.W. Palace, Nimroud.) In page 28. Part of a Bas-relief showing a Pulley, and a Warrior cutting a Bucket from the Rope. . In page 32. Plan 5. Excavations in the South-east Corner of the Mound. (Nimroud.) In page 39. Sitting figure in Basalt, from Kalah Sherghat. In page 52. Warriors hunting the Lion. (N.W. Palace, Nimroud.) Facing page 77. Plan of excavated Ruins at Kouyunjik. Facing page 124. The King in his Chariot returning from Battle. (Kouyunjik.) Facing page 137. Wedge or Arrow-head on an Altar. (From a Stone in the Bibliotheque Nationale at Paris.) In page 181. Scribes writing down the Number of Heads of the Slain, and the Amount of the Spoil. (Kouyunjik.) In page 184. Figures, and Cartouche with Hieroglyphics, on an Ivory Panel from the N.W. Palace, Nimroud. Facing page 209. The Egyptian Goddess Ken (from a Tablet in the British Museum); and Assyrian Deity (?), the Astarte of the Assyrians and the Ken of the Egyptians (from a Rock Tablet at Malthaiyah, near Mosul.) In page 212. Forms of Pottery found in the Tombs above the Ruins at Nimroud. In page 219. A House. (Kouyunjik.) The Interior of a Tent. (Kouyunjik.) In page 271. A Temple, or Fishing Pavilion, supported by Proto-Ionic Columns, and standing in a River or artificial Lake. (Khorsabad.) In page 273. VOL. II. a X LIST OF PLATEs, wooDCUTS, AND PLANs. Head of winged Bull. (Khorsabad and Kouyunjik.) Head of winged Monster. (Persepolis.) In page 290. Fragment of a Lycian Monument in the British Museum. In page 292. Bas-relief from a Monument from Xanthus, in the British Museum. - In page 293. Assyrian Ornament. (Nimroud.) Greek Honeysuckle Ornaments. In page 294. Ornament on a Lath at Allahabad. Ornament. (N. W. Palace, Nim- roud.) In page 295. Ornaments. (N.W. Palace Nimroud.) In page 296. Sacred Tree. (N. W. Palace Nimroud.) In page 297. Ear-ring. (N. W. Palace, Nimroud.) Assyrian Ear-rings. (Khorsabad.) Hilt of a Sword. (Khorsabad.) End of a Sword Sheath. (N. W. Palace, Nimroud.) In page 298. Handles of three Daggers carried in the Girdle. (N. W. Palace, Nim- roud.) In page 299. A Throne or Stool. (N.W. Palace, Nimroud.) In page 300. A Stool. (Khorsabad.) An Arm-chair. (Khorsabad.) In page 301. A Couch or Table. (Khorsabad.) A Footstool supported by Lion's Paws. (N. W. Palace, Nimroud.) In page 302. A Table, (N. W. Palace, Nimroud.) Altars, or Stands for Jars. (N. W. Palace, Nimroud.) Cup with Handle. (Khorsabad.) In page 303. Drinking Cup. (Khorsabad.) Vase from a Bas-relief (Khorsabad.) In page 304. Basket or Wessel carried by winged Figures. (Khorsabad.) In page 305. Head-dress of the King. (N. W. Palace, Nimroud.) Head-dress of the King. (Kouyunjik.) - In page 320. A Sandal. (N. W. Palace, Nimroud.) A Sandal. (Khorsabad.) In page 324. A Spearman. (Kouyunjik.) Greave or Gaiter worn by Warriors. (Khorsabad.) In page 337. An Archer. (Kouyunjik.) Helmets. (Centre Palace, Nimroud.) In page 338. Circular Helmet. (Centre Palace, Nimroud.) In page 339. Assyrian Warriors fighting with the Enemy. An Eagle is carrying away the Entrails of the Slain. (Centre Palace, Nimroud.) In page 340. Slinger. (Kouyunjik.) In page 344. Assyrian Warrior with Spear and Shield. (Kouyunjik.) In page 345. Warriors forming a Phalanx before the Walls of a besieged City. (Kouy- unjik.) In page 348. Assyrian Warriors in a Chariot. (S.W. Ruins, Nimroud; but originally brought from the N.W. Palace.) Facing page 350. Groom leading Horses. (From a Fragment discovered at Khorsabad, and now in the British Museum.) In page 353. LIST OF PLATES, wooDCUTS, AND PLANs. xi Assyrian Chariot of the later Period. (S. W. Ruins, Nimroud.) Facing page 356. Horsemen—one drawing the Bow, the other holding the Reins of both Horses. (N. W. Palace, Nimroud.) In page 357. Head-dress of a riding Horse. (Kouyunjik.) In page 358. A Horseman pursued by Assyrian Warriors. (Kouyunjik.) (From a Cast in the British Museum.) Facing page 360. Battering-ram, with moveable Tower containing Warriors. (N.W. Palace, Nimroud.) In page 368. Bas-relief representing Warriors before a besieged City. A Battering- ram drawn up to the walls, and Captives impaled. (Centre Palace, Nimroud.) - In page 369. Warriors forcing Stones out of the lower Part of the Wall of a besieged City. (S.W. Palace, Nimroud.) In page 372. A City taken by Assault, and the Inhabitants led away Captive. (Kouy- unjik.) Facing page 372. Manacles for the Feet. (Khorsabad and Kouyunjik.) Manacles for the Hands. (Khorsabad and Kouyunjik.) In page 376. A pair of Scales for weighing the Spoil. (Khorsabad.) In page 377. A Boat carrying a Chariot, and Men floating on inflated Skins. In page 381. A Ship. (Khorsabad.) In page 383. Ship. (Kouyunjik.) Coin of uncertain Origin, conjectured to have been struck in a City on the Syrian Coast during the Persian Occupation. In page 386. Castle of a maritime People, probably the Tyrians. (Kouyunjik.) In page 388 A Galley. (Kouyunjik.) In page 389. Flying Warrior discharging an Arrow. (N.W. Palace, Nimroud.) In page 393. A walled City standing on a River or on the Sea. (Centre Palace, Nim- roud.) In page 395. Captive Women in a Cart drawn by Oxen. (Centre Palace, Nimroud.) In page 396. Assyrian Horsemen pursuing a Man, probably an Arab, on a Camel. (Centre Ruins, Nimroud.) Facing page 396. Chariot carried away by the Assyrians, amongst other Spoil from a captured City. (Khorsabad.) In page 399. Enemies of the Assyrians discharging their Arrows behind them. (Kouyunjik.) In page 402. Bactrian or two-humped Camels. (Obelisk, Nimroud.) In page 433. Elephant, the Ouran Outan (?), the Hounuman, or small Indian Monkey(?) (Obelisk, Nimroud.) In page 434. xii LIST of PLATE, wooDCUTS, AND PLANs. The Bull, the Rhinoceros, and the Chikara, or large Indian Antelope (?) (Obelisk, Nimroud.) In page 435. The Bruh, or great Indian Monkey (?), and the Wanderoo, or named Ape (?). (Obelisk, Nimroud.) In page 436. Sacred Emblems suspended round the Neck of the King. (N.W. Palace, Nimroud.) In page 446. Emblems of the Deity. (N. W. Palace, Nimroud.) In page 448. Winged Circle. (Pterium.) In page 449. Idols carried in Procession by Assyrian Warriors. (S. W. Ruins, Nim- roud.) Facing page 451. Hera or the Assyrian Venus. (From a Rock Tablet near the ancient Pterium.) Facing page 456. A Gryphon. (N.W. Palace, Nimroud.) In page 459. Winged Horse. (N.W. Palace, Nimroud.) In page 461. Eagle-headed Figure. (S. W. Palace, Nimroud.) Warriors carrying a Bird. (Centre Palace, Nimroud.) In page 462. Lion-headed Figure. (S.W. Palace, Nimroud.) In page 463. The Fish God. (Khorsabad.) In page 466 An Altar, resembling that on the Sassanian Coins. (Khorsabad.) In page 467. Fire-Altar. (Khorsabad.) In page 468. Fire-Altar and Sacrifice. (Kouyunjik.) In page 469. Altar, or Tripod. (From Khorsabad.) In page 470. NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. CHAPTER XL DEATH OF TAHYAR PASHA. EXCAVATIONS CARRIED ON. — DIS- COVERIES IN THE NORTH-WEST PALACE. NEW CHAMBERS AND BAS-RELIEFS TVORY ORNAMENTS AND CARTOUCHES WITH HIERO- GLYPHICS. PAINTED CHAMBERS POTTERY. DISCOVERY OP UPPER CHAMBERS. PAINTINGS ON THE WALLS PAVEMENT SLABS. — DISCOVERIES IN THE CENTRE OF THE MOUND. TOMB3 CONTAINING VASES AND ORNAMENTS. — THEIR EGYPTIAN CHARACTER. BAS-RELIEFS COLLECTED TOGETHER DESCRIP- TION OF THE SCULPTURES. FURTHER DISCOVERIES IN THE SOUTH-WEST EDIFICE.—CROUCHING SPHINXES SCULPTURES.— A DESCRIPTION OF THE BAS-RELIEFS. SMALL FIGURES IN UN- BAKED CLAY. A BEAM OF WOOD DISCOVERY OF MORE TOMBS IN THE SOUTH-EAST CORNER. OF CHAMBERS BENEATH THEM. — OF AN ARCHED OR VAULTED ROOM. DISCOVERIES W VARIOUS PARTS OF THE MOUND. As I was drawing one morning at the mound, Ibrahim Agha came to me, with his eyes full of tears, and announced the death of Tahyar Pasha. The Cawass had followed the fortunes of the late Governor vol. n. B 2 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Chap. XI. of Mosul almost since childhood, and was looked upon as a member of his family. Like other Turks of his class, he had been devoted to the service of his patron, and was treated more like a companion than a servant. In no country in the world are ties of this nature more close than in Turkey: nowhere does there exist a better feeling between the master and the servant, and the master and the slave. I was much grieved at the sudden death of Tahyar; for he was a man of gentle and kindly manners, just and considerate in his government, and of consider- able information and learning for a Turk. I felt a kind of affection for him. The cause of his death showed his integrity. His troops had plundered a friendly tribe, falsely represented to him as rebellious by his principal officers, who were anxious to have an opportunity of enriching themselves with the spoil. When he learnt the particulars of the affair, and that the tribe, so far from being hostile, were peaceably pasturing their flocks on the banks of the Khabour, he exclaimed, "You have destroyed my house," (i. e. its honour), and, without speaking again, died of a broken heart. He was buried in the court-yard of the principal mosque at Mardin. A simple but ele- gant tomb, surrounded by flowers and evergreens, was raised over his remains; and an Arabic inscrip- tion records the virtues and probable reward of one of the most honest and amiable men that it has been my lot, in a life of some experience amongst men of various kinds, to meet. I visited his monument during my journey to Constantinople. From the Chap. XI ] > RESULTS OF THE EXCAVATION. 3 lofty terrace, where it stands, the eye wanders over the vast plains of Mesopotamia, stretching to the Euphrates, — in spring one great meadow, covered with the tents and flocks of innumerable tribes. The Kiayah, or chief secretary, was chosen Governor of the province by the council, until the Porte could name a new Pasha, or take other steps for the ad- ministration of affairs. Essad Pasha, who had lately been at Beyrout, was at length appointed to succeed Tahyar, and soon after reached his Pashalic. These changes did not affect my proceedings. Armed with my Vizirial letter I was able to defy the machinations of the Cadi and the Ulema, who did not cease their endeavours to throw obstacles in my way. After the celebration of Christmas I returned to Nimroud, and the excavations were again carried on with activity. I should weary the reader, were I to describe, step by step, the progress of the work, and the discoveries gradually made in various parts of the great mound. The labours of one day resembled those of the pre- ceding. A mere journal of my proceedings would afford but little amusement, and I should have to enter, over and over again, into the same details, and should probably be led into a repetition of the same reflections. I prefer, therefore, describing at once the results of my labours during the first three months of the year; and I will endeavour to explain, as concisely as possible, the extent of the operations, and the nature of the buildings uncovered. It will be ne- cessary to make frequent reference to the plans; b a 4 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Chap. XI. as, without the assistance they afford, it would be difficult to convey an accurate idea of the form of the edifices and position of the chambers. The North-west palace was naturally the most in- teresting portion of the ruins, and to it were prin- cipally directed my researches. I had satisfied myself beyond a doubt that it was the most ancient building yet explored in Assyria. Not having been exposed to a conflagration like other edifices, the sculptures, bas-reliefs, and inscriptions, which it con- tained, were still admirably preserved. When the excavations were resumed after Christ- mas, eight chambers had been discovered. There were now so many outlets, and entrances, that I had no trouble in finding new rooms and halls — one chamber leading into another. By the end of the month of April I had explored almost the whole building; and had opened twenty-eight chambers cased with alabaster slabs. Although many new sculptures of considerable interest and importance were found in them, still the principal part of the edifice seems to have been that to the north. Cham- bers B and G contained the most remarkable bas- reliefs; they represented the deeds of the king in war and in the chase, his triumphant return, and the celebration of religious ceremonies. The best artists had evidently been employed upon them; and they excelled all those that had yet been discovered, in the elegance and finish of the ornaments, and in the knowledge of art displayed in the grouping of the figures. The walls of the other chambers were either Chap. XI.] DESCRIPTION OF CHAMBERS. 5 occupied by a series of winged figures, separated by the sacred tree, and resembling one another in every respect, and the standard inscription alone was carved upon the slabs. It will be perceived that a certain symmetry was, to some extent, observed in the plan of the building; particularly in the arrangement of the chambers to the East; those marked I and L corresponded in form and size, and both led into small rooms, which did not communicate with any other part of the edifice. Each slab, however, in chamber L, was occupied by only one figure,—a gigantic winged divinity, or priest, — and was not divided into two compartments, as in chamber I. But it is remark- able that on the slab No. 20. there was a figure dif- fering from all the rest; and corresponding with the figures found on the lower part of the slab No. 16. of chamber I. It was that of a winged female deity or priestess, bearing a garland in one hand, and raising the other as if in some act of adoration. Around her neck were suspended, in the form of a double necklace, the star-shaped ornaments already described.* In this chamber also occurred niches similarly placed to those in I. In front of the female figure, and forming part of the pavement, was a slab with a hole through the centre. On raising it I discovered an earthen pipe, about eight inches in diameter and two feet in length, communicating with a drain running underneath, the whole being lined * See page 344. VoL I. This figure has been moved, and is amongst the sculptures which have been secured for the British Museum. B 3 <; [Ciiap. XI. NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. and cemented with bitumen. One or two fragments of ivory were also found in this room. In chamber H all the groups were similar — re- presenting the king, holding a cup in one hand and a bow in the other, attended by two winged figures with garlands round their heads. The sculptures in chamber G, as I have already observed, were chiefly remarkable for the variety and elegance of the orna- ments on the robes of the king, and his attendants. These ornaments consisted of groups of figures similar to those represented on the walls of the palace, such as the king slaying the lion, and hunting the bull; of winged figures before the sacred tree; religious em- blems; various animals, and elaborate scroll-work; all furnishing, not only beautiful designs, but important illustrations of the mythology of the Assyrians. The entrance d to this chamber was formed by two gigantic eagle-headed winged figures, of consi- derable beauty and finish. One of them was moved, and will be brought to England. In the chamber beyond, were repeated the winged divinities or priests, with the emblematical tree; except on slab 6, which represented the king holding a bow in one hand, and two arrows in the other. The four sculptures in the chamber, or rather passage, P (Nos. 1, 2, 3, and 4,) were remarkable for the beauty of the ornaments and details, and their careful finish. They all represented winged figures either holding a mace, a fir cone, or some religious emblem. On their dresses, however, were a variety of groups and designs — lion hunts, bull hunts, I To face page 7 vol II. TEE KING (N. W. Palace, Nimroud.) Chap. XI.] DESCRIPTION OF CHAMBERS. : winged animals, and many groups of winged figures.* Amongst the last was a curious representation of the Assyrian Venus, Mylitta or Astarte, in an inde- cent posture which indicated the peculiar nature of her worship. On each of the slabs forming the narrow passage a, leading from the chamber P, were two winged figures back to back. They were well designed and carefully executed. Beyond them, on slabs 2, 3, and 4. of chamber S, was the king between two eunuchs. The figure of the king, one of the most carefully sculptured and best preserved in the palace, is included in the collection sent to England. He is represented with one hand on the hilt of his sword, the other being supported by a long wand or staff. f On the remaining slabs of chamber S the winged figures were repeated. Some carried flowers of various shapes, whilst others had the usual fir-cone, and square basket, or utensil. Only three sides of the great hall Y were found entire. From its size it is probable that it was never roofed in, but was an open court. It appears to have been nearly square; but the western wall has been completely destroyed; the slabs having perhaps been carried away to be used in the construction of the south-west palace. Three entrances are still stand- ing. The one at b, formed by a pair of winged lions, — those at e and /, by winged bulls. There was probably a fourth entrance on the western side, • "Monuments of Nineveh," plates 7, 8. 43, 44. t Ibid, plate 34. b 4 8 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Chap. XI. formed by a pair of lions to correspond with that on the eastern; but I found no remains of it, al- though some might perhaps be discovered on a more careful examination. The removal of the slabs, which formed the western wall, has caused a depression in the mound, and consequently, if any large sculptures, such as the winged lions, had been left, when the slabs adjoining them were taken away, they would pro- bably have been exposed to decay; and the upper part, remaining longest uncovered, would have been completely destroyed. Behind the great hall Y, to the south, was a cluster of chambers leading one into another. Their proportions were small. V and W did not contain sculptures. T was surrounded by the usual winged figures; one of its entrances (a) being formed by two gigantic priests or divinities, with garlands round their heads, holding in one hand an ear of corn, and in the other an ibex, or mountain goat.* The chamber V is remarkable for the discovery, near the entrance a, of a number of ivory ornaments, of considerable beauty and interest. These ivories, when uncovered, adhered so firmly to the soil, and were in so forward a state of decomposition, that I had the greatest difficulty in extracting them, even in fragments. I spent hours lying on the ground, separating them, with a penknife, from the rubbish by which they were surrounded. Those who saw them, when they first reached this country, will be aware of the difficulty of releasing them from the * "Monuments of Nineveh," plate 35. Chap. XI.] DISCOVERY OF IVORY ORNAMENTS. 9 hardened mass in which they were embedded. The ivory separated itself in flakes. Even the falling away of the earth was sufficient to reduce it almost to powder. This will account for the condition of the specimens which have been placed in the British Museum. With all the care that I could devote to the collection of the fragments, many were lost, or re- mained unperceived, in the immense heap of rubbish under which they were buried. Since they have been in England, they have been admirably restored and cleaned. The gelatinous matter, by which the par- ticles forming the ivory are kept together, had, from the decay of centuries, been completely exhausted. By an ingenious process it has been restored, and the ornaments, which on their discovery fell to pieces almost upon mere exposure to the air, have regained the appearance and consistency of recent ivory, and may be handled without risk of injury. The important evidence, as to the epoch of the destruction of the building, furnished by these ivories, will be alluded to in another place. I will here merely describe them. The most interesting are the remains of two small tablets, one nearly entire, the other much injured, representing two sitting figures, holding in one hand the Egyptian sceptre or symbol of power. Between the figures is a cartouche, con- taining a name or words in hieroglyphics, and sur- mounted by a feather or plume, such as is found in monuments of the eighteenth, and subsequent dynasties, of Egypt. The chairs on which the figures are seated, the robes of the figures themselves, the 10 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Chap. XI. hieroglyphics in the cartouche, and the feather above it, were enamelled with a blue substance let into the ivory; and the uncarved portions of the tablet, the cartouche, and part of the figures, were originally gilded, — remains of the gold leaf still adhering to them. The forms, and style of art, have a purely Egyptian character; although there are certain pecu- liarities in the execution, and mode of treatment, that would seem to mark the work of a foreign, perhaps an Assyrian, artist. The same peculiarities — the some anomalies, — characterized all the other objects discovered. Several small heads in frames, supported by pillars or pedestals, most elegant in design and elaborate in execution, show not only a considerable acquaintance with art, but an intimate knowledge of the method of working in ivory. Found with them were oblong tablets, upon which are sculptured, with great delicacy, standing figures, with one hand ele- vated, and holding in the other a stem or staff, sur- mounted by an ornament resembling the Egyptian lotus. Scattered about were fragments of winged sphinxes, the head of a lion of singular beauty, but which unfortunately fell to pieces, human heads, hands, legs, and feet, bulls, flowers, and scroll-work. In all these specimens the spirit of the design and the delicacy of the workmanship are equally to be ad- mired.* * I add Mr. Birch's description of the most important of the ivory ornaments — that containing the cartouche. "The first of these panels, which is the most complete, measures nine inches long by six inches high. The cartouche is placed vertically in the centre, surmounted by a solar disk, gilded, flanked by two ostrich feathers, which are inlaid with narrow Chap. XI.] 11 PAINTED CHAMBER. On the two slabs forming the entrance to chamber U, were identical inscriptions, above those which in- variably occur on the slabs in this palace. They con- tained the name of the king who founded Ehorsabad, and they had evidently been cut long after the lower inscriptions, from which they differ in the forms of many characters. They may have been carved to celebrate the re-opening, or the restoration, of the building.* In all the chambers to the south of the great hall Y, were found copper vessels of peculiar shape; but they fell to pieces almost immediately on exposure to the air, and I was unable to preserve one of them entire. Beyond the entrance b, as far as chamber S, the alabaster slabs ceased altogether; and I was, for some time, at a loss to account for the manner in which horizontal strips of opaque blue glass, probably imitations of lapi^-Luiiji, and with some few bars in green. The area of the cartouche is gilded, and the hieroglyphics are incased, and inlaid with blue glass. At each side is a divinity, beardless, wearing the long hair-dress called mrmmt, also inlaid with blue and draped in linen garments, enveloping to* wh- !e of the form with a border of inlaid blue ovals. The seats on which they sit are the usual Egyptian throne, the side decorated with scales alter- nately of blue and opaque green pastes, inlaid into the ivory, and in- tended to imitate lapis-lazuli and felspar. At the lower corner, in a compartment, in gilded ivory on a blue back-ground, is a symbol of life. Each divinity holds in one hand a tam or kuiupha sceptre, and holds up the other with the palm turned towards the cartouche. Xo name is at- tached to either of these figures, which are probably intended for deities of an inferior rank, such as the Persian Izjeds. Like all the Egyptian figures, they are unbearded; but their drapery is not that of Egyptian females." ( Traiu. of the Royal Society of Literature, New Series.) For* detailed description of all the ivory fragments discovered, see Appendix; and, for engravings of the most interesting, my " Monuments of Xineveh," plates 88, 89, 90, and 91. * One of these inscriptions is in the British Museum, and is included in the collection of Assyrian Inscriptions printed for the Trustees. 12 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Chap. XI. the building had been continued. The pavement of baked bricks was still carried on, and it was evident that the edifice did not end here. At length I dis- covered that we had entered chambers formed by walls of sun-dried bricks, covered with a thin coating of plaster, which had been painted with figures and ornaments. The colours had faded so completely, that scarcely any of the subjects or designs could be traced. It required the greatest care to separate the rubbish from the walls, without destroying, at the same time, the paintings, as the plaster fell from the walls in flakes notwithstanding all my efforts to preserve it. I was only able to sketch a few of the ornaments, in which the colours chiefly distinguish- able were red, blue, black, and white. The subjects of the paintings, as far a3 could be judged from the remains, were probably processions, in which the king was represented followed by his eunuchs and at- tendant warriors, and receiving prisoners and tribute. The figures appeared to have been merely in outline, in black upon a blue ground, and I was unable to distinguish any other colours. In design they resem- bled the sculptures—exhibiting the same features, and the same peculiar treatment in the draperies and attitudes. As the means at my disposal did not warrant any outlay in making mere experiments, without the pro- mise of the discovery of something to carry away, I felt myself compelled, much against my inclination, to abandon the excavations in this part of the mound after uncovering portions of two chambers. The Chap. XI.] 13 PAINTED BRICKS. doorway, which united them, was paved with one large slab, ornamented with flowers and scroll-work. The flooring was of baked bricks. I found, by opening trenches behind chambers I and L, that similar painted rooms existed in other parts of the mound. The palace did not therefore only contain chambers panelled with slabs of ala- baster, but had apartments differently constructed, extending considerably beyond the limits shown in the plan. How far I could not ascertain. It may be mentioned that on the slabs 1 and 2, and those opposite of chamber Z, were sculptured small winged figures,—two, one above the other, on each. On removing No. 2., I found behind it, embedded in the wall of sun-dried bricks, a small earthen bowl, or cup of baked clay of a dark red colour.* This, con- sequently, is the most ancient specimen of pottery hitherto discovered in Assyria; for, from its position behind the slab, it is evident that it must have been placed there at the time of the building of the edi- fice. Between the bulls and lions, forming the en- trances in different parts of the palace, were invariably found a large collection of baked bricks, elaborately painted with figures of animals, and flowers, and with cuneiform characters. It is remarkable, that on the back of these bricks, or on one of the sides not coloured, were rude designs, in black paint or ink, of men and animals, and marks having the appearance of numbers. They appear to have been built into a wall above the sculptures. That they belonged to * Now in the British Museum. 14 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Ch.AP. XI. the edifice in which they were discovered, is proved by the name of the king painted upon them.” In the rubbish above the southern chambers of this palace, were found, several feet above the walls, numerous vases of baked clay. In those that were preserved entire, human remains could be distin- guished; but it was not until after further disco- veries, that I learnt the nature and importance of these objects. On the western side of the great mound, to the south of the palace in which the discoveries just described were made, there is a considerable eleva- tion. The spot is marked e, on plan 1. To examine the place, a trench was opened on a level with the PLAN 4. — Upper chambers on the west side of the mound. (Nimroud 2 * Several specimens of these bricks are in the British Museum. Chap. XI.] 15 UPPER CHAMBERS. platform. It was some time before I ascertained that we were cutting into a kind of tower, or nest of upper chambers, constructed entirely of unbaked bricks; the walls being plastered and elaborately painted. I ex- plored three rooms, and part of a fourth on the south- ern side of this building. It is probable that there were four similar groups of chambers, facing the four cardinal points. In front of the entrance a *, was a large square slab with slightly raised edges, similar to those frequently found in the north-west palace. On two sides of it were narrow pieces of alabaster, with a groove running down the centre, carefully cut and fitted together, forming parallel lines, which I can only compare to the rails of a railroad. I cannot form any conjecture as to their use. The rooms had been twice painted—two dis- tinct coats of plaster being visible on the walls. The outer coating, when carefully detached, left the under; on which were painted ornaments differing from those above. In the centre, and in one of the corners, of cham- ber C, were recesses, similar to those in some of the alabaster slabs in the north-west palace. No remains of plaster, or colour, could be traced upon the sun- dried bricks, forming the back of these recesses. The painted ornaments were elaborate and graceful in design. The Assyrian bull was frequently por- trayed, sometimes with wings, sometimes without. Above the animals were painted battlements, similar to those of castles, as represented in the sculptures. * See plan 4. 16 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Chap. XI. Below them, forming a kind of cornice, were squares and circles, tastefully arranged; and more elaborate combinations were not wanting. The colours em- ployed were blue, red, white, yellow, and black. I doubt whether any green was used in this building; the green on the under coating of plaster, being probably the result of the decomposition of the blue. The pale yellow of the ground, on which the designs were painted, resembles the tint on the walls of Egypt; but it is possible that white had changed to this colour.* But the most important discovery, connected with these upper chambers, was that of the slabs forming the pavement of the two entrances a and b. Upon them were the names and titles of five kings, in genea- logical succession; commencing with the father of the founder of the north-west palace, and ending with the grandson of the builder of the centre edifice. By this valuable record, I was able to verify the connection between the names already discovered, and to add two more to the list.f I could not ascertain whether there were any chambers, or remains of buildings, beneath this upper edifice; or whether this was a tower constructed on the solid outer wall. A deep trench was opened on the eastern side of it J, and, about twenty feet below the surface, a pavement of brick and several square slabs of alabaster were uncovered; but these remains * For specimens of these ornaments, see my " Monuments of Nineveh," plates 86, 87. -f One of these slabs will be placed in the British Museum, j At d, in plan 1. CHAP. XI.] DISCOVERY OF TOMBS. 17 did not throw any light upon the nature of the building above; nor were they sufficient to show that the north-west palace had been carried under these upper chambers. To the south of them there were no remains of building, the platform of unbaked bricks being continued up to the level of the flooring of the chambers; but there is reason to believe that this part of the mound is of a more recent date than that to the north of it, and was added at a subsequent period. In the centre of the mound, to the north of the great winged bulls, I had in vain endeavoured to find traces of building. Except the obelisk, two winged figures, and a few fragments of yellow limestone, which appeared to have formed part of a gigantic bull or lion, no remains of sculpture had yet been dis- covered. Excavations to the south disclosed a well- formed tomb built of bricks, and covered with a slab of alabaster. It was about five feet in length, and scarcely more than eighteen inches in breadth in the interior. On removing the lid, parts of a skeleton were exposed to view; the skull and some of the larger bones were still entire, but crumbled into dust when I attempted to remove them. With them were three earthen vessels. A vase of reddish clay, with a long narrow neck, stood in a dish of such delicate fabric, that I had great difficulty in removing it entire. Over the mouth of the vase was placed a bowl or cup, also of red clay. This pottery appears to have stood near the right shoulder of the body. In the dust, which had accumulated round the ske- WOL. II. C 18 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Chap. XI. leton, were found beads and small ornaments belong- ing to a necklace. The beads are of opaque coloured glass, agate, cornelian, and amethyst. A small crouching lion of lapis-lazuli, pierced on the back, had been attached to the end of the necklace. The vases and ornaments are Egyptian in their character, being identical with similar remains found in the tombs of Egypt, and preserved in collections of an- tiquities from that country. With the beads was a cylinder, on which is represented the king in his chariot, hunting the wild bull, as in the bas-relief from the north-west palace. The surface of the cylinder has been so much worn and injured, that it is difficult to distinguish the figures upon it. A copper ornament resembling a modern seal, two bracelets of silver, and a pin for the hair, were also discovered. I carefully collected and preserved these interesting remains, which seem to prove that the body bad been that of a female. On digging beyond this tomb, I found a second, similarly constructed, and of the same size. In it were two vases of highly glazed green pottery, ele- gant in shape, and in perfect preservation. Near them was a copper mirror, and a copper lustral spoon, all Egyptian in form. Many other tombs were opened, containing vases, plates, mirrors, spoons, beads, and ornaments.* Some of them were built of baked bricks, carefully joined, but without mortar; others consisted of large earthen * Most of the small objects discovered in the tombs, and described in the text, are now in the British Museum. Chap. XI.] DISCOVERY OF BAS-RELIEFS. 10 sarcophagi, covered with an entire alabaster slab, similar to those discovered in the south-east corner of the mound, and already described.* Having carefully collected and packed the contents of the tombs, I removed them and dug deeper into the mound. I was surprised to find, about five feet beneath them, the remains of a building. Walls of unbaked bricks could still be traced; but the slabs, with which they had been panelled, were no longer in their places, being scattered about without order, and lying mostly with their faces on the flooring of baked bricks. Upon them were both sculptures and inscrip- tions. Slab succeeded to slab; and when I had re- moved nearly twenty tombs, and cleared away the earth from a space about fifty feet square, the ruins, which had been thus uncovered, presented a very sin- gular appearance. Above one hundred slabs were exposed to view, packed in rows, one against the other, as slabs in a stone-cutter's yard, or as the leaves of a gigantic book. Every slab was sculptured; and as they were placed in a regular series, according to the subjects upon them, it was evident that they had been moved, in the order in which they stood, from their original positions against the walls of sun- dried brick; and had been left as found, preparatory to their removal elsewhere. That they were not thus arranged before being used in the building for which they had been originally sculptured, was evident from the fact, proved beyond a doubt by repeated observ- ation, that the Assyrians carved their slabs after, and * See Vol. I. p. 353. c 9. 20 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Chap. XI. not before, they were placed. Subjects were con- tinued on adjoining slabs, figures and chariots being divided in the centre. There were places for the iron brackets, or dovetails. They had evidently been once filled, for I could still trace marks and stains left by the metal. To the south of the centre bulls were two gigantic figures, similar to those discovered to the north.* These sculptures resembled, in many respects, some of the bas-reliefs found in the south-west palace, in which the sculptured faces of the slabs were turned, it will be remembered, towards the walls of unbaked brick. It appeared, therefore, that the centre build- ing had been destroyed, to supply materials for the construction of the more southern edifice. But here were tombs over the ruins. The edifice had perished, and in the earth and rubbish accumulating above its remains, a people, whose funereal vases and ornaments were identical in form and material with those found in the catacombs of Egypt, had buried their dead. What race, then, occupied the country after the de- struction of the Assyrian palaces? At what period were these tombs made? What antiquity did their presence assign to the buildings beneath them? These are questions which I am yet unable to answer; and which must be left undecided, until the origin and age of the contents of the tombs can be satisfactorily determined. The bas-reliefs differed considerably from those of the north-west palace, both in the character of the » See Vol. I. p. 345. Chap. XI.] DESCRIPTION OF SCULPTURES. 21 sculpture, and the treatment of the subjects; in the costumes of the figures, in the caparisons of the horses, and in the form of the chariots. The distinc- tion was so great, that the short period elapsing be- tween the reigns of a father and son could scarcely have given rise, except under extraordinary circum- stances, to so considerable a change in all these points. As the centre bulls were inscribed with the name of the son of the founder of the north-west building, it might be presumed that the ruins near them belong to the same period. However, this is liable to doubt. The bulls, as it has already been pointed out *, may have stood alone on the platform, and may have been placed there long previous to the construction of an edifice. There were a few inscrip- tions accompanying the bas-reliefs, and they may hereafter serve to decide the question. On the greater number of slabs, however, the space between the bas- reliefs was left without any inscription. The subjects of the sculptures thus found collected together, with the exception of a few gigantic figures of the king and his attendant eunuchs, and of the winged priests or divinities, were principally battle- pieces and sieges. Some cities were represented as standing on a river, in the midst of groves of date- trees; others on mountains. Amongst the conquered people were warriors mounted on camels. It may be inferred, therefore, that a part of these bas-reliefs re- corded the invasion or conquest of an Arab nation, or * See Vol. L p. 345. 22 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Chap. XI. perhaps of a part of Babylonia; the inhabitants of the cities being assisted by auxiliaries, or allies from the neighbouring desert. The conquered race, as in the bas-reliefs of the north-west palace, were gene- rally without helmets or armour, their hair falling loosely on their shoulders. Some, however, wore helmets, which varied in shape from those of the conquerors. Battering rams, differing in form from those seen in the earlier sculptures, were represented in bas- reliefs of sieges. They were unaccompanied by the moving tower; some engines were provided with two rams, the ends of which, instead of being broad and blunt, were pointed, and resembled the heads of spears. On two slabs (occupied by one subject) were bas- reliefs of considerable interest. They are included in the collection in the British Museum, and represent the taking of a city, within the walls of which grew the palm and other trees. The place having been sacked, the conquerors are seen carrying away the spoil. Two eunuchs, standing near the gates, count, as they pass before them, the sheep and cattle driven away by the warriors, and write down the numbers with a pen upon rolls of paper or leather. In the lower part of the bas-relief, are two carts drawn by oxen. Two women and a child are in each. The women appear to be carrying away bags, containing provisions or valuable property, saved during the sack. Near the gates stand two battering-rams, which, the city having been taken, are no longer at Chap. XI.] SCULPTURED SLABS. 23 work. The subject is not ill arranged, and the oxen drawing the cart are well designed.* On the fragment of a slab were found two gigantic horses' heads, well designed; but sculptured in very low relief, and greatly injured. I also discovered parts of a winged human-headed bull, the whole being in relief. I was able to preserve one of the heads. f Amongst the subjects of these bas-reliefs were the king seated on his throne (beneath the sun, moon, and other religious symbols), receiving prisoners with their arms bound behind them; eunuchs registering the heads of the enemy, laid at their feet by the conquer- ing warriors; and a procession of gods borne on the shoulders of men. J The sides of all the slabs thus placed one against the other—the part which, in the event of their gradual covering up, would have been longest ex- posed—were worn away. It was, therefore, evident that they had not been buried by the same process as the sculptures in the north-west palace, the walls of which could not have been long exposed; for, if the edifice to which they originally belonged had been suddenly covered up, it must have been subsequently excavated. The slabs must then have been removed from their places, and arranged as they were found, preparatory to being used for other purposes, probably for the construction of the south-west palace. Not having been carried away, as that palace was never * Monuments of Nineveh, plate 58. t Now in the British Museum, and engraved in plate 95. No. 3. of my "Monuments of Nineveh." I Monuments of Nineveh, plates 59. 65. &c. c 4 24 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Chap. XI. finished, they were left exposed, and were gradually covered by dust and rubbish. As the slabs stood on their sides, and not upright, all the bas-reliefs had suffered more or less injury. Many were completely destroyed, no traces of sculpture remaining upon them. The upper part of the slabs had not been the first injured: this proves that they were not exposed whilst standing in their original position, but subse- quent to their removal. Although on each slab the two bas-reliefs were divided by an unsculptured space, as in the north- west palace, in few instances, as I have already mentioned, were inscriptions cut upon it. It had been left blank; but whether intentionally, or because the building had never been completed, there were no means of ascertaining. The slabs, too, were much thinner than those used in other parts of the mound; and, as the dove-tailed and circular holes for metal braces on the top were cut in half, it is evident that they had been reduced in size after having been used. They had probably been sawn in two, the other half having been carried elsewhere. There were no inscriptions on the back, as is invariably the case in the north-west palace; and this is another proof that the slabs had been reduced after they had been placed. In fact, I have little doubt, from the appear- ance of these ruins, that the building to which the sculptures originally belonged had been suddenly buried, like that in the north-west corner of the mound; and that it had subsequently been un- covered, the materials being wanted for the con- Chap. XI.] SOUTH-WEST PALACE. 25 struction of the south-west palace. The slabs, not having been required, were left exposed, until they were reburied by a gradual accumulation of dust and rubbish. I could still trace the walls of unbaked bricks, forming the divisions of chambers in the old edifice. To the east of the centre bulls I discovered several slabs, still standing in their original position. The lower part of the bas-reliefs alone remained, the upper having been completely destroyed. Upon them had been sculptured gigantic winged figures, carrying the usual square vessel, and a sacred flower. Several trenches were opened around these remains; but, with the exception of the sculptures just men- tioned, and the fragments of a second winged bull of yellow limestone, I could find no traces of building in the centre of the mound. I have described the singular appearance presented by the ruins in the south-west corner. Several parties of workmen were now engaged in exploring them. When all the walls still standing had been traced, and trenches opened in opposite directions, so that no remains of building could escape observation, I was equally at a loss to determine the position of the chambers, and the extent of the edifice. It will be seen, by a reference to plan 2., that the only portion of the building sufficiently well pre- served to give any idea of its original form, was one large hall curiously constructed. Leading into it were two entrances, formed by gigantic winged bulls and lions, with human heads; and, in the centre, was a 26 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Cuap. XI. portal formed by a second pair of bulls. At entrance a, were a pair of lions with the crouching sphinxes between; at entrance c, a pair of bulls, much injured, only the lower part being entire. A human head, belonging to one of them, was, however, discovered near the remains of the body; and, as it was nearly entire, I sent it to Busrah. The second pair of bulls were at entrance b. They resembled the lions at en- trance a, in having figures sculptured behind the body of the animal, and between the cap and the wings. Between them were a pair of double sphinxes — two sphinxes, resembling those already described, being united, and forming one pedestal. They had been greatly injured by fire, and the heads and all the sculptured portions of the figure had fallen to pieces.* The lions and bulls were all sculptured out of a coarse grey limestone; the entrances which they formed were paved with small slabs of the same ma- terial. I have called all the space enclosed by the walls d, e, w, /, k, and j, one hall; although it is divided into four separate chambers by a thick partition in the centre. This partition appears to have been merely constructed to support the beams of the roof, and not to have been meant as a division between different rooms. The hall narrows near the four corners, and in the narrowest part at each extremity were two low sphe- rical stones, flattened at the top. I cannot account * The remains of a small double sphinx of this kind had already been found in the rubbish at entrance a. See Vol. I. p. 349. Chap. XL] SOUTH-WEST PALACE. 27 for their use. If they were bases of columns sup- porting the roof, why were they placed in the narrow- est part of the hall? No remains of pillars were found near them; therefore, if pillars ever stood there, they must have been of wood. It appears more pro- bable that these stones corresponded in some manner with the crouching sphinxes between the bulls and lions; and were altars to receive sacrifices, or tables upon which vases or utensils were laid. The whole of this hall was panelled with slabs brought from elsewhere; the only sculptures, expressly made for the building, being the gigantic lions and bulls, and the crouching sphinxes. The slabs were not all from the same edifice. Some, and by far the greater number, belong to the north-west, others to the centre, palace. But there were many bas-reliefs which differed greatly, in the style of art, from the sculptures discovered in both those ruins. From whence they were obtained I am unable to deter- mine; whether from a palace of another period once existing at Nimroud, and still concealed in a part of the mound not explored, or from some edifice in the neighbourhood. All the walls had been exposed to fire; the slabs were nearly reduced to lime, and were too much injured and cracked to bear removal. They were not all sculptured; the bas-reliefs being scattered here and there; and, as I have already observed, always, when left entire, turned towards the wall of sun-dried brick. The earth had consequently to be removed by the workmen from both sides of the slabs. 28 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Ch.AP. XI. I will proceed to describe the walls as they are marked on the plan; without a reference to which, the details and form of the ruins can scarcely be understood. All the slabs in wall a were unsculptured, except Nos. 5. and 10. On the first was represented the interior of a castle. The king, seated on his throne, is receiving his vizir. Around him are his attend- ants, and above him a groom bringing corn to a f; § } º U - Enemy asking quarter of Assyrian horsemen (S.W. palace, Nimroud.) Chap. XL] DESCRIPTION OF BAS-EELIEFS. 29 horse tied to a manger.* On the other slab was the horseman wearing a helmet with a curved crest, of which a sketch is given. He appears to be raising his hand, in the act of asking for quarter, whilst his horse, pierced by the spears of two pursuing warriors, is rearing and plunging, f Both the slabs had been greatly injured. No remains of sculpture could be traced on walls b, c, and d. Upon the faces of most of the slabs forming wall e, were the marks of a chisel, or of some metal instrument. The bas-reliefs had been carefully erased, the only part of the figures remain- ing being the feet, which would probably have been concealed by the pavement of the chamber. As the sculptured face of the slabs had been turned towards the chamber, and not to the wall of sun- dried brick, it is evident that the bas-reliefs had been purposely destroyed; the intention of the builders of the edifice being either to recarve the slabs or to reduce them to a smooth surface. The peculiar form of the boots, and the lower part of the dresses of the erased figures, identified them with the sculptures in cham- bers D and E of the north-west palace (plan 3.), from whence indeed they may have been brought, as the ravine to the north of that edifice must have been partly caused by the removal of a wall. On the slab adjoining entrance e, were two bas-reliefs, the upper (partly destroyed) representing warriors hewing * Monuments of Nineveh, plate 63. f This sculpture will he placed in the British Museum. 30 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [CHAP. XI. down trees; the lower, a warrior on horseback hunt- ing the wild bull.” Both were too much injured to bear removal. Only parts of walls f and h had been finished; many of the slabs not having been used, and still lying in the centre of the chamber. It was evident that they had not fallen, for they were entire, having only suffered injury from fire; they were, moreover, arranged in rows with great regularity, and, in one or two instances, placed one above the other. These prostrate slabs, therefore, furnished additional evi- dence that the building had been destroyed before its completion. In wall f, were the two sculptured slabs already described. In wall h, there were bas-reliefs on Nos. 1, 2, and on the adjoining prostrate slab. In the upper compartment of No. 2. was represented the king, in his chariot, discharging an arrow against a charioteer, whose horses had already been wounded. Scattered about were the bodies of the slain. The top of this bas-relief had been destroyed, and the slab so much injured, that it could not be moved. In the lower compartment were two kneeling archers, wearing the conical helmet, and an eunuch also discharging an arrow; behind them were several figures, probably prisoners, raising their hands. The draperies and ornaments on both bas-reliefs were elegant and ela- borate, resembling those on the opposite slab (No. 1. wall f), to which, from forming part of the same subjects, they appear originally to have been joined. * Monuments of Nineveh, plate 32. f See Vol. I. p. 40. CHAP. XI.] BAS-RELIEF WITH PULLEY. 31 The corner stone was reversed; upon it was a figure with the conical cap, apparently made of bands of linen or felt, as represented in the sculptures of chambers D and E (plan 3.).” The upper part of the stone (or the lower part of the reversed figure): had been purposely destroyed, the marks of the chisel being visible. In this respect, and in its position, it resembled the opposite corner stone. On the prostrate slab were two bas-reliefs. The upper was so much injured that the outlines of a chariot, and warriors on foot, could with difficulty be traced. The lower was the siege of a castle; an eunuch was represented discharging his arrows against warriors, without helmets, who manned the towers and walls. The besiegers were leading away pri- soners, and carrying off the spoil. One high-capped warrior was cutting a bucket from a rope passed through a pulley; and probably used by the be- sieged to supply themselves with water from a well, without the castle walls. The pulley resembled those now in common use, for raising and lowering buckets into wells. This bas-relief had been brought from the north-west palace. There were no slabs against wall g, nor near it; those of wall i were unsculptured. Upon the two opposite slabs at it, were winged human-headed bulls, resembling in form those at the entrance to the hall; except that the whole, including the head and fore- * See Vol. I. p. 126. The head of this figure is in the British Museum. 32 [Chap. XI. NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. Tart of a haa relief, showing a pulloy. aud a warrior cutting a hucket from the ropo part, was sculptured in low relief. They bore no traces of an inscription. The cap was high and square; and they resembled, in all respects, the re- mains of the bull discovered in the centre of the mound. Walls y, and jjj, were panelled with unsculptured slabs, each bearing an inscription similar to that on the back of the slabs in the 'north-west palace; they had evidently been brought from that building. In wall k there were three sculptured slabs. The bas-reliefs on Nos. 12. and 16. have already been Chap. XI.] o3 SOUTH-WEST PALACE. described.* On Xo. 17. was a winged figure almost completely destroyed. On the floor, and opposite No. 18. of this wall, was a large square slab bearing a long inscription. It commenced with the name and titles of a king, of whom no other records have yet been discovered. The forms of certain arrow- headed characters show, that this inscription belongs to a period posterior to the reign of the great-grandson of the founder of the north-west palace. On the backs of several slabs, forming the wall /, were bas-reliefs; but all so much injured, that scarcely a trace of the sculpture remained. The slab lying on the pavement opposite this wall was plain; the edges were raised, and it was pierced in the centre. On all the slabs of wall wi, was the inscription con- taining the name of the founder of the north-west palace ; and the reversed slab (Xo. 10.), already de- scribed f, appears to have been a pavement stone, also brought from that building. To the north of the entrance c, of the great hall, remains of buildings were discovered, but no entire chamber. A large number of unplaced slabs were scattered about. They appear to have been brought from elsewhere, for the construction of the new edifice, and to have been abandoned before they reached there destination. Although many detached walls were uncovered, it was impossible to determine the form and the size of the chambers to which they belonged. In front of entrance c, and about 220 feet from • Sec Vol. L p. 55. VOL. II. D t Ibid. p. 35. 34 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Chap. XI. it, were the remains of a pair of winged bulls, form- ing another entrance. The whole space between may have been comprised in one large hall, open at the top. The wall forming the east side of this hall, if it had ever been finished, had almost completely disappeared; the traces of it being only marked here and there by fragments of calcined alabaster. 01 the opposite or western wall, a few sculptured slabs, probably brought from elsewhere, were alone stand- ing. To the right and left of the entrance /, were the remains of gigantic figures in relief; but they had been exposed to the fire, and had been cracked into a thousand pieces.* They also appear to have belonged to another edifice. Upon the three slabs forming the wall r, were bas- reliefs of considerable interest. They had evidently been brought from another building, but do not belong to either the north-west or the centre palace. They appear to be of the same period as the bas-reliefs in wall q f, already described. In the lower compartment of No. 1. was a charioteer, in a highly ornamented chariot — the horse being held by a groom on foot, preceded by an eunuch.% This relief must have formed part of a series; the figures represented in it being probably the attendants of the king. The caparisons of the horses resembled those at Khorsabad. The upper bas-relief also represented a chariot, and a man * On No. 2. wall v, could be still traced a winged figure leading a goat or an ibex. t Vol. L p. 59. } See Lithograph facing page 356. of this Vol. CuAp. XL] 35 A PROCESSION OF GODS. on foot; but it had been almost entirely destroyed. On the lower part of Xo. 2. was the king placing his foot on the neck of a prostrate prisoner, and raising his spear over him. Following the king was an eunuch carrying a fan; and standing before him, his vizir, also attended by an eunuch.* This bas-relief did not form part of the preceding; for the king would have faced the chariot on that slab—a position which he never appears to occupy in the Assyrian sculptures. The upper compartment was nearly defaced; I could, however, trace the figures of warriors discharging their arrows from behind a high shield held in front of them by an attendant. On the lower part of slab of Xo- 3. was represented either a procession of gods, borne on the shoulders of warriors; or warriors, returning from the sack of a city, carrying away the idols of the conquered people. Each figure was raised by four men; the first was that of a female, seated on a high-backed arm-chair, the face sculptured in full, — a rare occurrence in Assyrian sculpture. In one hand she held a ring; in the other a kind of fan; on the top of her square-horned cap was a star. The next figure was also that of a female, wearing a similar cap, seated in a chair, and holding in her left hand a ring; she carried some- thing in her right hand, but its form could not be dis- tinguished. The third figure was much smaller in its proportions than those preceding it, was half con- cealed in a case, or box, carried on a chair, and had also a ring in the left hand. The fourth was that * "Monuments of Nineveh," Plate 82. (No. 2.) j> 2 36 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Chap. XI. of a man in the act of walking: in one hand he held the thunderbolt of the Greek Jove—represented as at Malthaiyah; and in the other, an axe. He wore a richly ornamented tunic descending to the knees.* The warriors, bearing these figures, were probably preceded and followed by others, also carrying idols; but no traces of the slabs, forming the rest of the series, could be found amongst the ruins. On each slab, between the bas-reliefs, was an inscription, di- vided into two parts by a perpendicular line. Trenches were opened, in various directions, across the corner of the mound in which these remains were discovered. Nothing, however, was found but iso- lated unplaced slabs, and fragments of burnt walls. With adequate means and time at my disposal, I might have determined, by a careful examination, the position of the walls of sun-dried bricks, if they had ever been built. Tracing them, by the frag- ments remaining, I could have ascertained the form of the chambers, and perhaps that of the entire building. It would have been difficult, however, to distinguish between these walls and the earth and rubbish under which they were buried; and as no more sculptures appeared to exist, I did not think it worth while to incur additional expense in such an examination. As the bottom of the slabs, forming this edifice, was even above the level of the top of those in the north- west palace, and as no building had yet been found from which many of the sculptures could have been * Sec Woodcut facing page 451. of this Vol.; and "Monuments of Nineveh," l'late 65. Chap. XI.] 37 A BEAM OF WOOD. taken, it appeared to me possible that the south-west palace stood above other ruins. By way of experiment, I directed long and very deep trenches to be opened in three different directions: nothing, however, was discovered, but a box or square hole, formed by bricks carefully fitted together, containing several small heads in unbaked clay of a dark brown colour. These heads were furnished with beards, and had very high pointed caps (not helmets) or mitres. They were found about twenty feet beneath the surface, and were probably idols placed, for some religious purpose, under the foundations of buildings. Objects some- what similar, in unbaked clay, were discovered at Khorsabad, buried under the slabs forming the pave- ment between the gigantic bulls. Near the entrance d of the great hall was found, amidst a mass of charred wood and charcoal, and be- neath a fallen slab, part of a beam in good preserv- ation. It appears to be mulberry. This is the only portion of entire wood as yet discovered in the ruins of Assyria. The south-east corner of the mound, which is con- siderably higher than any other part, appears to have been the principal burying-place of those who occupied the country after the destruction of the oldest of the Assyrian palaces. I have already described two tombs discovered there*: many others were subsequently found. The sarcophagi were mostly of the same shape, that of a dish-cover; but there were other * See Vol. L p. 352., &c. » 3 38 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [CHAP. XI. tombs constructed of bricks, well fitted together, and covered by a slab, similar to those above the ruins of the edifice in the centre of the mound. In nearly all were earthen vases, copper and silver ornaments, lachrymatories and small alabaster bottles. The ske- letons, as soon as uncovered, crumbled to pieces, although entire when first exposed. Two skulls alone have been preserved. Scattered amongst these tombs were vases of all sizes, lamps, and small objects of pottery—some uninjured, others broken into frag- ments. * Removing these tombs I discovered beneath them the remains of a building, and explored parts of seven chambers, of which I give the plan. No sculptured slabs or inscriptions were found in them. They re- sembled those in the ruin to the north of Kouyunjiki; the lower part of the walls being built of plain slabs of limestone, three feet seven inches high and from two to three feet wide, closely fitted together, and the upper part, of sun-dried bricks, covered by a thick coat of white plaster. I could trace this brick wall about fourteen feet above the slabs. The chambers were paved with limestone. There were no traces of inscriptions, nor were there any remains of fragments by which the comparative age of the building could be determined. In the walls were recesses like those in some of the chambers of the north-west palace, and the sides of the doors were slightly ornamented with * Many of the small objects are in the British Museum, and several have been engraved in my “Monuments of Nineveh." See Plate 97. # Vol. I. p. 144. CHAP. XI.] DISCOVERY OF SMALL OBJECTS. 39 PLAN 5 – Excavations in the south-east corner of the mound. (Nimroud.) a rough kind of cornice. No remains of colour could be seen on the plastered walls. In the rubbish, near the bottom of these chambers, several small objects were found; amongst them I may mention a female head in white alabaster, highly ornamented, and showing traces of colour. * A trench having been opened on the southern edge of the mound, an outer wall, built of squared stones, or rather slabs, was discovered. Behind it were other walls of similar construction leading inwards, and a low platform, resembling a stone seat, in which were * This head is in the British Museum, and engraved in the “Monu- ments of Nineveh,” Plate 95. (No. 7.) D 4 40 [Chap. XT. NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. cut several holes, like the fire-places used by the natives of the country to hold charcoal when they roast their meat. The Arabs consequently named the place the "Kibab Shop." The whole was buried under a heap of charcoal and rubbish, in which were found several small vases, and part of a highly polished black slab, having, on either face, a cuneiform inscription, and on the sides figures of animals. * Similar remains of building were discovered on the south eastern edge of this part of the mound. The whole, including the centre chambers, appeared to form parts of one extensive edifice. Between the palace in the south-west corner and the ruins last described was a deep ravine; whether an ancient artificial ascent to the platform, gradu- ally deepened and widened by the winter rains, or entirely a natural watercourse, I was unable to determine. Along its sides, to a considerable depth, were exposed masses of brickwork. I directed several trenches to be carried from this ravine into the south-eastern corner, in the expectation of finding buildings beneath the chambers already explored. A few fragments of sculptured alabaster, the remains of a winged bull in yellow limestone, and a piece of black stone bearing small figures, evidently from an obelisk resembling that found in the centre palace, were discovered to the west of the uppef building. I could also trace walls of sun-dried brick, * In the British Museum, and engraved in "Monuments of Nineveh," Plate 95. (Nos. 12. and 13.) Chap. XI.] BUILDING IN SOUTH-EAST CORNER. 41 still bearing remains of painted ornaments; but the excavations were not sufficiently extensive to enable me to ascertain the nature and extent of the edifice. Finding no sculptured slabs, I did not continue my researches in this part of the ruins. It only remains for me to mention a singular dis- covery on the eastern face of the mound, near its northern extremity. I had opened a trench * from the outer slope, with a view to ascertain the nature of the wall surrounding the inner buildings. I found no traces of stone, or of alabaster-slabs; the wail being built of sun-dried bricks, and nearly fifty feet thick. In its centre, about fifteen feet below the surface of the platform, the workmen came upon a small vaulted chamber, built of baked bricks. It was about ten feet high, and the same in width. The arch was con- structed upon the well-known principle of vaulted roofs—the bricks being placed sideways, one against the other, and having been probably sustained by a frame-work until the vault was completed. This chamber was nearly filled with rubbish, the greater part of which was a kind of slag. The sides of the bricks forming the arched roof and the walls were almost vitrified, and had evidently been exposed to very intense heat. In fact, the chamber had the ap- pearance of a large furnace for making glass, or for fusing metal. I am unable to account for its use. It is buried in the centre of a thick wall, and I could find no access to it from without. If, therefore, either originally a furnace, or serving for any other * r, plan 1. -12 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Chap. XI. purpose, it must have been used before the upper part of the wail was built. Several trenches were opened in other parts of the mound.* Everywhere I found traces of build- ings, and generally reached a pavement of baked bricks between ten and fifteen feet beneath the sur- face. In the northern half of the mound, the name of the founder of the earliest palace was written upon all these bricks. No remains, however, of sculptured slabs or inscriptions were discovered; but many small objects of considerable interest were occasionally taken out of the rubbish: amongst them I may mention three lions' paws in copper, of beau- tiful form, which may have belonged to the bottom of a couch or throne, f The ruins were, of course, very inadequately ex- plored; but with the small sum at my disposal I was unable to pursue my researches to the extent that I could have wished. If, after carrying a trench to a reasonable depth and distance, no remains of sculpture or inscription appeared, I abandoned it and renewed the experiment elsewhere. By this mode of pro- ceeding I could ascertain, at least, that in no part of the mound was there any very extensive edifice still standing; although it is highly probable that slabs taken from such an edifice, and placed together in readiness for removal, like those discovered in the centre, may still be buried under the soil. But there * At o,p, q, s, find t in plan 1. f Found at /i, plnii 1. See "Monuments of Nineveh," Plate !)6. (Nos. 2. and 8.) CHAP. XI.] PART OF NIMROUD UNEXPLORED. 43 is nothing to point out the spot where such remains may be deposited, and I might have sought after them for months in vain. There were too many tangible objects in view to warrant an outlay in experiments, perhaps leading to no results; and I have left a great part of the mound of Nimroud to be explored by those who may hereafter succeed me in the examin- ation of the ruins of Assyria. 44 NINEVEH AND ITS KTLMAINS. [Chap. XII. CHAP. XII. EXCAVATIONS UNDERTAKEN AT KALArl SHERGHAT. — DEPARTURE FOR THE RUINS.—SENIDIJ. THE BITUMEN PITS. ABD'rUBBOU. — MY RECEPTION. REACH THE RUINS.—FEARS OF THE WORK- MEN.—DISCOVERY OF A SITTING FIGURE. ARAB ENCAMPMENT. ARAB LIFE EXCAVATIONS IN THE MOUND. DISCOVERY OF TOMBS. REMAINS OF BUILDING. DESCRIPTION OF THE MOUNDS. — RETURN TO NIMROUD. I had long wished to excavate in the mounds of Kalah Sherghat,—ruins, rivalling those of Nimroud and Kouyunjik in extent. An Arab, from the Shammar, would occasionally spend a night amongst my workmen, and entertain them with accounts of idols and sculptured figures of giants, which had long been the cause of wonder and awe to the wandering tribes, who occasionally pitch their tents near the place. On my first visit, I had searched in vain for such remains; but the Arabs, who are accustomed to seek for pasture during the spring in the neighbour- hood, persisted in their assertions, and offered to show me where these strange statues (carved, it was said, in black stone) were to be found. As there is scarcely a ruin in Mesopotamia without its wondrous tale of apparitions and Frank idols, I concluded that Kalah Sherghat was to be ranked amongst the number, and that all these accounts were to be attributed to the fertile imagination of the Arabs. As the vicinity is notoriously dangerous, being a place of rendezvous Chap. XII.] 43 THE DESERT. for all plundering parties, whether of the Shammar, the Aneyza, or the Obeid, I had deferred a visit to the ruins, until I could remain amongst them for a short time under the protection of some powerful tribe- This safeguard was also absolutely necessary, in the event of my .sending workmen to the place, to carry on excavations. The pastures in the neighbourhood of Mosul having this year been completely destroyed from the want of rain, the three great divisions of the Jebour Arabs sought the jungles on the banks of the Tigris below the town. Abd'rubbou with his tribe descended the river, and first pitching his tents at Senidij *, near the confluence of the Tigris and the Zab, subse- quently moved towards Kalah Sherghat. I thought this a favourable time for excavating in the great mound; and the Sheikh having promised to supply me with Arabs for the work, and with guards for their defence, I sent Mansour, one of my superintend- ents, to the spot. I followed some days afterwards, accompanied by Mr. Hormuzd Rassam, the Bairakdar, and several well-armed men, chosen from amongst the Jebours who were employed at Nimroud. We crossed the river on a small raft, — our horses having to swim the stream. Striking into the desert by the Wadi Jehennem, we rode through a tract of land, at this time of the year usually covered with vegetation; but then, from the drought, a barren • A corruption of Sunedik, the plural form of Sanduk, a box. The place is so called by the Arabs from the peculiar form of the rocks near the river. 46 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Char. XII. waste. During some hours' ride we scarcely saw any human being, except a solitary shepherd in the distance, driving before him his half-famished flocks. We reached at sunset a small encampment of Jebours. The tents were pitched in the midst of a cluster of high reeds on the banks of the Tigris, and nearly opposite to the tomb of the Sultan Abd-Allah. They were so well concealed, that it required the ex- perienced eye of a Bedouin to detect them * by the thin smoke rising above the thicket. The cattle and sheep found scanty pasture in a marsh formed by the river. The Arabs were as poor and miserable as their beasts; they received us, however, with hospitality, and killed a very lean lamb for our entertainment. Near the encampment was a quadrangle, resembling on a small scale the great enclosures of Nimroud and Kouyunjik, formed by low mounds, and evidently marking the site of an Assyrian town or fort. I searched for some time, but without success, for fragments of pottery or brick bearing traces of cuneiform characters. On the following day we passed the bitumen pits, or the “Kiyara,” as they are called by the Arabs. They cover a considerable extent of ground; the bitumen bubbling up in springs from the crevices in the earth. The Jebour, and other tribes encamping * In the desert, the vicinity of an encampment is generally marked by some sign well known to the members of the tribe. It would otherwise be very difficult to discover the tents, pitched, as they usually are, in some hollow or ravine to conceal them from hostile plundering parties. CHAP. XII.] SHEIKH ABD'RUBBou. 47 near the pits, carry the bitumen for sale to Mosul, and other parts of the Pashalic. It is extensively used for building purposes, for lining the boats on the river, and particularly for smearing camels, when suffering from certain diseases of the skin to which they are liable. Before leaving the pits, the Arabs, as is their habit, set fire to the bitumen, which sent forth a dense smoke, obscuring the sky, and being visible for many miles. We reached the tents of Abd'rubbou early in the afternoon. They were pitched about ten miles to the north of Kalah Sherghat, at the upper end of a long slip of rich alluvial soil, lying between the river and the range of low hills parallel to it. The great mound was visible from this spot, rising high above the Zor, or jungle, which clothes the banks of the Tigris. No Sheikh could have made a more creditable show of friendship than did Abd'rubbou. He rode out to meet me, and without delay ordered sheep enough to be slain to feast half his tribe. I declined, however, to spend the night with him, as he pressed me to do, on the plea that I was anxious to see the result of the excavations at Kalah Sherghat. He volunteered to accompany me to the ruins after we had breakfasted, and declared that if a blade of grass were to be found near the mound, he would move all his tents there immediately for my protection. In the meanwhile, to do me proper honour, he introduced me to his wives, and to his sister, whose beauty I had often heard extolled by the Jebours, and who was not altogether undeserving of her reputation. 48 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [CHAP. XII. She was still unmarried. Abd'rubbou himself was one of the handsomest Arabs in Mesopotamia. We started for the ruins in the afternoon, and rode along the edge of the jungle. Hares, wolves, foxes, jackals, and wild boars continually crossed our path, and game of all kinds seemed to abound. The Arabs gave chase; but the animals were able to enter the thick brushwood, and conceal themselves before my greyhounds could reach them. Lions are sometimes found near Kalah Sherghat, rarely higher up on the Tigris.” As I floated down to Baghdad a year before, I had heard the roar of a lion not far from this spot: they are, however, seldom seen, and we beat the bushes in vain for such noble game. As for grass, except in scanty tufts at the foot of the trees in the jungle, there appeared to be none at all. The drought had been felt all over the desert: in the place of the green meadows of last year, covered with flowers, and abounding in natural reservoirs of water, there was a naked yellow waste, in which even the abstemious flocks of the Bedouin could scarcely escape starvation. • . . As we rode along, Abd'rubbou examined every corner and ravine in the hope of finding an encamping * The lion is frequently met with on the banks of the Tigris below Baghdad, rarely above. On the Euphrates it has been seen, I believe, almost as high as Bir, where the steamers of the first Euphrates expedition, under Colonel Chesney, were launched. In the Sinjar, and on the banks of the Kabour, they are frequently caught by the Arabs. They abound in Khuzistan, the ancient Susiana: I have frequently seen three or four together, and have hunted them with the chiefs of the tribes inhabiting that province. CHAP. XII.] ARAB ROBBERS, 49 place, and a little pasture for his cattle, but his search was not attended with much success. The workmen on the mound, seeing horsemen ap- proach, made ready for an encounter, under the im- pression that we were a foraging party from a hostile tribe. As soon, however, as they recognised us, they threw off the few superfluous garments they possessed. Dropping their shirts from their shoulders, and tying them round the waist by the arms, they set up the war-cry, and rushed in and out of the trenches like madmen. We heard their shouts from afar, but could see nothing, from the dust they made in throwing out the earth. I found that Mansour, the superintendent, had organised a regular system of warlike defence. We were hailed by scouts as we advanced, and there were well-armed watchmen on all the heights. Near each trench were the matchlocks and spears of the workmen ready for use. “What need of all these precautions?” said I to the timid Christian, as he ad- vanced to receive me. “Yia Rubbiſ May God pre- serve you, O Bey!” replied he. “Our lives, under your shadow, are, of course, of no value—may yours be prolonged. But all the unbelievers in the world— whether they be Aneyza, Shammar, Obeid, or any other manner of infidel—congregate here. If we put a morsel of bread into our mouths—lo ! we have to spit it out again, before we can eat it, to meet those accursed Bedouins. If we shut our eyes in sleep, they steal our cauldrons and pots, and we have nothing wherewith to bake our bread; so that if we are not WOL. II. E 50 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Chap. XII. killed, wc must be starved. Thev come from the desert and from the river—from north, south, east, and west. But we have eaten your bread, and shall not go un- rewarded after all these sufferings." The concluding paragraph accounted to some extent for this exag- gerated history of their miseries; but I learnt that scarcely a day had elapsed without the appearance of a body of horsemen from some of the tribes of the desert, and that their visits were not always prompted by the most friendly intentions. The general scarcity, and the rivalry between Sofuk and Nejris, had un- settled the Arabs, and every one was on the look-out to help himself to his neighbour's property. More- over, reports had soon been spread abroad that a Frank, acquainted with all the secrets and hidden mysteries of wisdom, had been successfully searching for treasure. Many of those who rode to Kalah Sherghat, expected to return much wealthier men than they went, by seizing the heaps of gold and silver to which, as possessors of the country, they were con- vinced they had better claims than a stranger. How- ever, with the exception of an occasional squabble with the Bedouins who visited the mound, ending in a few broken heads, no very serious engagement had yet taken place — my workmen presenting much too for- midable an appearance to be exposed to the attack of any but a large and well-armed party. The principal excavations had been made on the western side of the mound. After I had succeeded in obtaining silence, and calming the sudden fit of enthusiasm which had sprung up on my arrival, I • Chap. XII. J 51 A SITTING FIGURE. descended into the trenches. A sitting figure iu black basalt, of the size of life, had been uncovered. It was, however, much mutilated. The head and hands had been destroyed, and other parts of the statue had been injured. The square stool, or block, upon which the figure sat, was covered on three sides with a cuneiform inscription. The first line, con- taining the name and titles of the king, was almost defaced; but one or two characters enabled me to restore a name, identical with that on the great bulls in the centre of the mound at Nimroud. On casting my eye down the first column of the inscription, I found the names of his father (the builder of the most ancient palace of Nimroud), and of his grandfather, which at once proved that the reading was correct. An Arab soon afterwards brought me a brick bearing a short legend, which contained the three names entire. I was thus enabled to fix the comparative epoch of the newly-discovered ruins. At no time did I feel the value of the genealogical lists on the different monuments at Nimroud, more than when exploring other remains in Assyria. They enabled me to as- certain the comparative date of every edifice, and rock tablet, with which I became acquainted ; and to fix the style of art of each period. The figure, unlike the sculptures of Nimroud and Khorsabad, was in full, and not iu relief; and probably represented the king. Part of the beard was still preserved; the hands appear to have rested on the knees, and a long robe, edged with tassels, reached to the ankles. The Arabs declared that this B 2 52 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Chap. XII. statue had been seen some years before; and it is pos- sible that, at some period of heavy-rain, it may have Sitting Figure In B*»altp frem Kalah Sirjrghat. now in the British Museum. been for a short time exposed to view, and subse- quently reburied. It stood on a spur of the mound, and probably in its original position. Mansour had dug trenches at right angles with it on four sides, in. the expectation of finding a corresponding figure; but he was disappointed in his search, and no re- mains of building were discovered near it. In other parts of the mound there were ruins of walls, but we found no more sculptures. Several tombs, similar to those discovered above the palaces of Nimroud, had been opened; and Mansour brought me earthen vases, and bottles taken from them. He had also picked up, amongst the rubbish, a few frag- ments of stone bearing cuneiform characters, a piece of copper similarly inscribed, and several bits of black Cif ap. XII.] CHANGING AN ENCAMPMENT. stone with small figures in relief, which appeared to have belonged to an obelisk, like that dug up at Nimroud. Having made a hasty survey of the trenches, I rode to my tent. It had been pitched in the midst of those of my workmen. The Arabs had chosen for their encampment a secure place in the jungle at the northern foot of the mound, and not far from the Tigris. A ditch, leading from the river, nearly sur- rounded the tents, which were completely concealed by the trees and shrubs. Abd'rubbou remained with me for the night. Whilst I was examining the ruins, he had been riding to and fro, to find a con- venient spot for his tents, and grass for his cattle. Such is the custom with the Arabs. When the grass, within a certain distance of their encampment, has been exhausted, they prepare to seek new pastures. The Sheikhs, and the principle men of the t ribe, mount their mares, and ride backwards and forwards over the face of the country, until they find herbage suf- ficient for the wants of their flocks. Having fixed upon a suitable spot, they return to acquaint their followers with their success, and announce their inten- tion of moving thither on the following morning. The Sheikh's tent is generally the first struck; and the rest of the Arabs, if they feel inclined, follow his move- ments. If any of the tribe have quarrelled with the chief, and wish to desert him, they seize this occasion; leaving their tents standing until the others are gone, and then moving off in another direction. Abd'rubbou having, at length, found a convenient a 3 54 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Chap. XII. site on the banks of the river, to the south of the mound, he marked out a place for his tents, and sent a horseman to his tribe, with orders for them to move to Kalah Sherghat on the following morning. These preliminaries having been settled, he adjourned to my tent to supper. It was cold and damp, and the Arabs, collecting brushwood and trunks of trees, made a great fire, which lighted up the recesses of the jungle. As night advanced, a violent storm broke over us; the wind rose to a hurricane—the rain descended in torrents—the thunder rolled in one long peal — and the vivid streams of lightning, almost incessant, showed the surrounding landscape. When the storm had abated, I walked to a short dis- tance from the tents to gaze upon the scene. The huge fire we had kindled, threw a lurid glare over the trees around our encampment. The great mound could be distinguished through the gloom, rising like a distant mountain against the dark sky. From all sides came the melancholy wail of the jackals—thousands of these animal shaving issued from their subterranean dwellings in the ruins, as soon as the last gleam of twilight was fading in the western horizon. The owl, perched on the old ma- sonry, occasionally sent forth its mournful note. The shrill laugh of the Arabs would sometimes rise above the cry of the jackal. Then all earthly noises were buried in the deep roll of the distant thunder. It was desolation such as those alone who have wit- nessed such scenes can know — desolation greater than the desolation of the sandy wastes of Africa: Chap. XII.] ARABS ENCAMPING. for there was the wreck of man, as well as that of nature. Some years before, I had passed a night on the same spot. We were four strangers in the land, without guide or defence. Our horses were picketed about us; and although surrounded by dangers, of which we then thought little, and ex- posed to a continual rain, we ate the frugal fare our own guns had obtained for us; and slept in our cloaks undisturbed, round the embers of the small fire we had lighted.* I did not think then that I should ever revisit the place. Soon after sunrise, on the following morning, strag- glers on horseback from Abd'rubbou's late encamp- ment, began to arrive. They were soon followed by the main body of the tribe. Long lines of camels, sheep, laden donkeys, men, women, and children, such as I have described in my visit to Sofuk, covered the small plain, near the banks of the river. A scene of activity and bustle ensued. Every one appealed desirous to outdo his neighbour in vehemence of shouting, and violence of action. A stranger would have fancied that there was one general quarrel; in which, out of several hundred men and women con- cerned, no two persons took the same side of the ques- tion. Every one seemed to differ from every one else. All this confusion, however, was but the result of a friendly debate on the site of the respective tents: and when the matter had been settled to the general satisfaction, without recourse to any more violent measures than mere yelling, each family commenced * Ainsworth's Travels in Asia Minor, Mesopotamia, &c. vol. ii. e 4 56 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Chap. XII. raising their temporary abode. The camels being made to kneel down, and the donkeys to stop in the place fixed upon, the loads were rolled off their backs. The women next spread the coarse, black, goat-hair canvass. The men rushed about with wooden mallets to drive in the stakes and pegs; and in a few minutes the dwellings, which were to afford them shelter, until they needed shelter no longer, and under which they had lived from their birth up- wards, were complete. The women and girls were then sent forth to fetch water, or to collect brush- wood and dry twigs for fire. The men, leaving all household matters to their wives and daughters, as- sembled in the tent of the Sheikh; and crouching in a circle round the entire trunk of an old tree, which was soon enveloped in flames, they prepared to pass the rest of the day in that desultory small-talk, re- lating to stolen sheep, stray donkeys, or successful robberies, which fills up the leisure of an Arab, unless he be better employed in plundering, or in war. There is a charm in this wandering existence, whether of the Kurd or the Arab, which cannot be described. I have had some experience in it, and look back with pleasure to the days I have spent in the desert, notwithstanding the occasional incon- veniences of such a life, not the least of them bein. XIII. Nimroud, dragged the cart. The procession was thus formed. I rode first, with the Bairakdar, to point out the road. Then came the musicians, with their drums and fifes, drumming and fifing with might and main. The cart followed, dragged hy about three hundred men, all screeching at the top of their voices, and urged on by the Oawasses and superintendents. The procession was closed by the women, who kept up the enthusiasm of the Arabs by their shrill cries. Abd-ur-rahman's horsemen per- formed divers feats round the group, dashing back- wards and forwards, and charging with their spears. We advanced well enough, although the ground was very heavy, until we reached the ruins of the former village of Nimroud.* It is the custom, in this part of Turkey, for the villagers to dig deep pits to store their corn, barley, and straw for the autumn and winter. These pits generally surround the vil- lages. Being only covered by a light framework of boughs and stakes, plastered over with mud, they become, particularly when half empty, a snare and a trap to the horseman, who, unless guided by some one acquainted with the localities, is pretty certain to find the hind legs of his horse on a level with its ears, and himself suddenly sprawling in front. The corn-pits around Nimroud had long since been emptied of their supplies, and had been concealed by the light sand and dust, which, blown over the plain during * The village was moved to its present site after the river had gradually roceded to the westward. The inhabitants had been then left at a very inconvonient distance from water. (.HAP. XIII.] 89 MOVING THE BULL. summer, soon fill up every hole and crevice. Although I had carefully examined the ground before starting, one of these holes had escaped my notice, and into it two wheels of the cart completely sank. The Arabs pulled and yelled in vain. The ropes broke, but the wheels refused to move. We tried every means to re- lease them, but unsuccessfully. After working until dusk, we were obliged to give up the attempt. I left a party of Arabs to guard the cart and its contents, sus- pecting that some adventurous Bedouins, attracted by -the ropes, mats, and felts, with which the sculpture was enveloped, might turn their steps towards the spot during the night. My suspicions did not prove unfounded; for I had scarcely got into bed before the whole village was thrown into commotion by the re- ports of fire-arms and the war-cry of the Jebour. Hastening to the scene of action, I found that a party of Arabs had fallen upon my workmen. They were beaten off, leaving behind them, however, their mark; for a ball passing through the matting and felt, struck and indented the side of the bull. I was anxious to learn who the authors of this wanton attack were, and had organized a scheme for taking summary vengeance. But they were discovered too late; for, anticipating punishment, they had struck their tents, and had moved off into the desert. Next morning we succeeded in clearing away the earth, and in placing thick planks beneath the buried wheels. After a few efforts the cart moved forwards amidst the shouts of the Arabs; who, as was invari- ably their custom on such occasions, indulged, whilst 90 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [CiiAp. XIII. pulling at the ropes, in the most outrageous antics. The procession was formed as on the previous day, and we dragged the bull triumphantly down to within a few hundred yards of the river. Here the wheels buried themselves in the sand, and it was night before we contrived, with the aid of planks and by increased exertions, to place the sculp- ture on the platform prepared to receive it, and from which it was to slide down on the raft. The tents of the Arabs, who encamped near the river, were pitched round the bull, until its companion, the lion, should be brought down; and the two embarked together for Baghdad. The night was passed in re- newed rejoicings, to celebrate the successful termina- tion of our labours. On the following morning I rode to Mosul, to enjoy a few days' rest after my exertions. The bull having thus been successfully transported to the banks of the river, preparations were made, on my return to Nimroud, for the removal of the second sculpture. I ordered the trench, already opened for the passage of the bull, to be continued beyond the entrance formed by the lions, or about eighty feet to the north. It was then necessary to move the slabs from behind these sculptures. The slabs in hall Y were unsculptured, having only the usual inscription. The bas-reliefs on those adjoining the lion, in chamber G, had been almost entirely destroyed, apparently by the action of water. My preparations were completed by the middle of April. I determined to lower the lion at once on Cuap. XIII.] REMOVAL OF THE LION. the cart, and not to drag it out of the mound over the rollers. This sculpture, during its descent, was supported in the same manner as the bull had been; but, to avoid a second accident, I doubled the number of ropes and the coils of the cable. Enough earth was removed to bring the top of the cart to a level with the bottom of the lion. Whilst clearing away the wall of unbaked bricks, I discovered two small tablets similar to those previously dug out in cham- ber B.* On both sides they had the usual standard inscription, and they had evidently been placed where found, when the foundations of the palace were laid: probably as coins and similar tablets are now buried under edifices to commemorate the period and object of their erection. As the lion was cracked in more than one place, considerable care was required in lowering and moving it. Both, however, were effected without accident. The Arabs assembled as they had done at the removal of the bull. Abd-ur-rahman and his horsemen rode over to the mound. We had the same shouting and the same festivities. The lion de- scended into the place I had prepared for it on the cart, and was easily dragged out of the ruins. It was two days in reaching the river, as the wheels of the cart sank more than once into the loose soil, and were with difficulty extricated. The lion and bull were at length placed, side by side on the banks of the Tigris, ready to proceed to * Vol. I. p. 116. 92 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Chap. XIII. Busrah, as soon as I could make the necessary ar- rangements for embarking them on rafts. The sculptures, which I had hitherto sent to Bus- rah, had been floated down the river on rafts, as far only a3 Baghdad. There they had been placed in boats built by the natives for the navigation of the lower part of the Tigris and Euphrates. These vessels, principally constructed of thin poplar planks, reeds, and bitumen, were much too small and weak to carry either the lion or the bull; and, indeed, had they been large enough, it would have been diffi- cult, if not impossible, in the absence of proper machinery, to lift such heavy masses into them. I resolved, therefore, to attempt the navigation of the lower as well as of the upper part of the river with rafts; and to embark the lion and bull, at once, for Busrah. The raftmen of Mosul, who are accus- tomed to navigate the Tigris to Baghdad, but never venture further, pronounced the scheme to be im- practicable, and refused to attempt it. Even my friends at Baghdad doubted of my success; prin- cipally, however, on the ground that the prejudices and customs of the natives were against me, — and every one knows how difficult it is to prevail upon Easterns to undertake anything in opposition to their established habits. Such has been their nature for ages. As their fathers have done, so have they done after them, forgetting or omitting many things, but never adding or improving. As rafts meet with no insurmountable difficulties in descending, even from the mountainous districts of Diarbekir, Chap. Xin.] 93 THE RAFTMAN. to Baghdad, there was no good reason why they should not extend their journey as far as Busrah. The real obstructions would occur in the upper part of the river, which abounds in rapids, rocks, and shallows; and not in the lower, where there is depth of water and nothing to impede the passage of large boats. The stream below Baghdad is sluggish, and the tide ascends nearly sixty miles above Busrah: these were the only objections, and they merely af- fected the time to be employed in the descent, and not its practicability. It was impossible by the most convincing argu- ments, even though supported by the exhibition of a heap of coins, to prevail upon the raftmen of Mosul to construct such rafts as I required, or to undertake the voyage. I applied therefore to Mr. Hector, and through him found a man at Baghdad, who declared himself willing to make the great sacri- fice generally believed to be involved in the attempt. He was indebted in a considerable sum of money, and being the owner of a large number of skins, now lying useless, he preferred a desperate undertaking to the prospect of a debtor's prison. It was not in any one's power to persuade him that his raft could reach its destination, or that even he could survive the enterprise; and it would have been equally im- possible to convince him that my stake in the matter was greater than his own. As it was evident that no harm would come to him, but that, on the contrary, by entering into my service he would pay the greater part of his debts, and escape a prolonged residence in 94 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [Ciiap. XIII. the gloomy subterranean abodes of hopeless debtors, I felt less compunctions of conscience in resorting to the last extremity. Indeed it was consoling to reflect that it was all for the man's own good. At any rate, I had to choose between leaving the sculp- tures on the river bank near Mosul, the sport of mis- chievous Arabs, and seeing them safely transported to Busrah, and ultimately to England. I did not, there- fore, long hesitate upon the course to be pursued. Mullah Ali — for such was the name of my raft- contractor— at length made his appearance. He was followed by a dirty half-naked Arab, his assistant in the construction of rafts; and, like those who carried on his trade some two thousand years before, by a couple of donkeys laden with skins ready for use. Like a genuine native of Baghdad, he had exhausted his ingenuity in the choice of materials for the com- position of his garments. There could not have been a more dexterous mixture of colours than that dis- played by his antari, cloak, and voluminous turban. He began, of course, by a long speech, protesting, by the Prophet, that he would undertake for no one else in the world what he was going to do for me; that he was my slave and my sacrifice, and that the man who was not was worse than an infidel. I cut him short in this complimentary discourse. He then, as is usual in such transactions, began to make excuses, to increase his demands, and to throw difficulties in the way. On these points I declined all discussion, directing Ibrahim Agha to give him an insight into my way of doing business, to recommend him to Chap. XIII.] P5 THE BAFTMA>\ resign himself to his fate, as the contract had been signed, and to hint that he was now in the power of an authority from which there was no appeal. Mullah Ali made many vain efforts to amend his condition, and to induce, on my part, a fuller appre- ciation of his merits. He expected that these endea- vours might, at least, lead to an additional amount of bakshish. At last he resigned himself to his fate, and slowly worked, with his assistant, at the binding together of beams and logs of wood with willow twigs to form a framework for a raft. There were still some difficulties and obstacles to be surmounted. The man of Baghdad had his own opinions on the building of rafts in general, founded upon immemorial customs and the traditions of the country. I had my theories, which could not be supported by equally substantial arguments. Consequently he, who had all the proof on his side, may not have been wrong in declaring against any method, in favour of which I could produce no better evidence than my own will. But, like many other injured men, he fell a victim to the "droit du plus fort," and had to sacrifice, at once, prejudice and habit. I did not doubt that the skins, once blown up, would support the sculptures without difficulty as far as Baghdad. The journey would take eight or ten days, under favourable circumstances. But there they would require to be opened and refilled, or the rafts would scarcely sustain so heavy a weight all the way to Busrah; the voyage from Baghdad to that port being considerably longer, in point of time, than 96 NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. [CiiAp. XIII. that from Mosul to Baghdad. However carefully the skins are filled, the air gradually escapes. Rafts, bearing merchandise, are generally detained several times during their descent, to enable the raftmen to examine and refill the skins. If the sculptures rested upon only one framework, the beams being almost on a level with the water, the raftmen would be unable to get beneath them to reach the mouths of the skins when they required replenishing, with- out moving the cargo. This would have been both inconvenient and difficult to accomplish. I was there- fore desirous of raising the lion and bull as much as possible above the water, so as to leave room for the men to creep under them. It may interest the reader to know how these rafts, which have probably formed for ages the only means of traffic on the upper parts of the rivers of Mesopotamia, are constructed. The skins of full- grown sheep and goats are used. They are taken off with as few incisions as possible, and then dried and prepared. The air is forced in by the lungs through an aperture which is afterwards tied up with string. A square framework, formed of poplar beams, branches of trees, and reeds, having been constructed of the size of the intended raft, the inflated skins are tied to it by osier and other twigs, the whole being firmly bound together. The raft is then moved to the water and launched. Care is taken to place the skins with their mouths upwards, that, in case any should burst or require filling, they can be easily opened by the raftmen. Upon the framework of wood are piled Chap. XIII.] RAFTS ON THE TIGKIS. 97 bales of goods, and property belonging to merchants and travellers. When any person of rank, or wealth, descends the river in this fashion, small huts are con- structed on the raft by covering a common wooden takht, or bedstead of the country, with a hood formed of reeds and lined with felt. In these huts the tra- vellers live and sleep during the journey. The poorer passengers seek shade or warmth, by burying them- selves amongst bales of goods and other merchandise, and sit patiently, almost in one position, until they reach their destination. They carry with them a small earthen mangal or chafing-dish, containing a charcoal fire, which serves to light their pipes, and to cook their coffee and food. The only real danger to be apprehended on the river is from the Arabs; who, when the country is in a disturbed state, in- variably attack and pillage the rafts. The raftmen guide their rude vessels by long oars,— straight poles, at the end of which a few split canes are fastened by a piece of twine. They skil- fully avoid the rapids; and, seated on the bales of goods, work continually, even in the hottest sun. They will seldom travel after dark before reaching Tekrit, on account of the rocks and shoals, which abound in the upper part of the river; but when they have passed that place, they resign themselves, night and day, to the sluggish stream. During the floods in the spring, or after violent rains, small rafts may float from Mosul to Baghdad in about eighty-four hours; but the large rafts are generally six or seven days in performing the voyage. In summer, and VOL. II. H