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Northamptonte
Northampton
- Nortkasterthing
Killercing
:.





.
A
JOURNEY
FROM
Aleppo to Jeruſalem;
At Eaſter, A.D. 1697.
The Seventh Edition ; To which is now added an Account of
the Author's Journey to the Banks of Euphrates at Beer,
and to the Country of Meſopotamia. With an Index to
the whole Work.
By Hen. Maundrell, M. A. lace Fellow of Exeter Coll.,
and Chaplain to the Factory at Aleppo.
TITULLULLHDN
I
Mittal
TEXTES
TE
111
OU
AVENE
.
LE
BO
F
.
UNT
ll.
GRAR
O X FORD,
Printed at the THEATRE, for W. Meadows Bookſeller
in Gornhill, London. MDCCXLIX.


TO THE
READER
T HE Author of this ſhort Journal having
1 ſometime ſince ſent a Copy of it into
England, only for the private Entertainment of
ſome of his Friends : They, finding with what
a Spirit of Modeſty, Ingenuity, and Truth it was
written, ſoon reſolu'd to make it Publick. Upon
notice hereof given to Him, He, with ſome un-
willingneſs, ſubmitted to their Judgment as to
the Publication; but withal deſired, that the Ori.
ginal might firſt be amended by the enſuing Cor-
rections and Additions. He had made them
partly from his own review of the Papers, after
they had lain cold a good while by him; partly
by the Advice of ſome Gentlemen of that Fa-
ctory, who had ſince gone the ſame Journey, and
had taken this Journal with them; and ſo gave
it a new Authority by a freſh Examination of his
Obſervations. But by misfortune his deſign’d Al-
terations did not arrive at Oxford, 'till the Book
was almoſt printed off. Wherefore the Reader is
deſired to accept candidly theſe following Emen-
dations, which would have made the Work more
perfect, if they could have been inſerted in the
a 2
Body
413334


Body of it, each in it's proper place. The Pub-
liſhers thought a Piece ſo well writ, ought not
to appear abroad without the uſual and proper
Ornament of Writings of this kind, variety of
Sculptures; and it having been deſign’d by the
Author for a ſupplement to Sandys, their reſo-
lution, at firſt, was to furniſh it with ſuch Cuts,
as are wanting in Him; but le Brune being ſince
publiſh'd, and in every ones hands, ſuch only are
here inſerted, as are wanting in both.
B
Note, That the Corrections and Additions
which were ſent by the Author after the Book
was Printed off, are in this Edition inſerted in
the Body of the Book in their proper places.


Charakter which is given of them in England; and
which (beſides the general vogue) your Lordſhip has
ſometime received from a moſt faithful and judicious
hand, the excellent Biſhop Frampton. As he un-
doubtedly was the great Improver of the rare temper
of this Society, ſo he may well be eſteemed beſt able to
give them their true and de ſerved Character. I need
only add, that ſuch they ftill continue as that incom-
parable Inſtructor left them: That is, Pious, Sober,
Benevolent, devout in the Offices of Religion ; in Cons
verſation innocently chearful; given to no pleaſures
but ſuch as are honeſt and manly; to no Communica-
tions, but ſuch as the niceſt Ears need not be offended
at; exhibiting in all their A&tions thoſe beſt and trueſt
figns of a Chriſtian Spirit, a fincere and chearfil
friendſhip among themſelves, a generous Charity to-
ward Others, and a profound reverence for the Litur-
gy and Conſtitution of the Church of England. It is
our firſt Employment every morning to ſolemnize the
dayły Service of the Church; at which I am ſure to.
have always a devout, a regular and full Congregation.
In a word, I can ſay no more (and leſs, I am ſure, I
ought not) than this, that in all my experience in the
World, I have never known a Society of young Gentle-
men, whether in the City, or Country, (I had almoſt
ſaid the Univerſity too) ſo well dipoſed in all points
as this. .
Your Lordſøip will conclude, that in conſequence
of all this, my preſent Station cannot buť be very
agreeable. And tho’ in leaving England, I was ſea
parated from the greateſt bleſſings to me in the World,
your Lordſiip's kindneſs, and that of my friends at
Richmond; yet I muſt own, I have found here as
much


much recompence, as could be made for ſuch a fe-
paration.
Among other ſatisfactions, one great one, which I
have had ſince my Arrival, was a Voyage to the Holy
Land, in Company with fourteen others of our Fa-
Etory. We went by way of the Coaſt; and having vi-
ſited the ſeveral places Conſecrated by the Life and
Death of our Bleſſed Lord, we returned by way of
Damaſcus. If there be any thing either in theſe
places which I have viſited, or elſewhere in theſe
Countries, touching which I may be capable of giving
your Lordſhip any ſatisfaction, by my poor Obſerva-
tions, I ſhould eſteem it my great happineſs, and my
coming thus far would ſeem compleatly recompenſed.
I intreat your Lordſhip’s Bleſſing,
as being
Your Lordſhip's
moſt dutiful,
humble Servant,
Hen. Maundrell.





To My
Ever Honoured Uncle
S CHARLES HEDGES K,
Judge of the High Court
OF
ADMIRALTY of ENGLAND.
SIR,
AM ſenſible of two general Defeats (and You
will ſoon obſerve a great many more) running
through this whole Paper, which might juftly
deter me from preſenting it to a Perſon
great Learning and Judgment. One is, frequent Er-
rours; the other, Tediouſneſs. But it is your pleaſure
to require it from me as it is: and I am ſure what-
ever Faults there may be in it, yet there can be none
ſo great, as it would be for me to diſpute your In-
jun&ions. I have nothing to do therefore but to re-
commend it to your Favour, as it is offered up to your
Commands, with all its Imperfections about it : only
putting


putting in a word or two, before I diſmiſs it, by way
of Apology.
And firſt, as to the Errours which you will be ſure
to note in it, I have this Mitigation to offer; that
in a ſwift and tranſient View of places, ( ſuch as mine
was) it was hardly poſſible for me, not to be ſome-
times over ſeen: But however this I profefs with a
clear Con ſcience, that whatever Miſtakes there may
be, yet there are no Lies.
As to the Tediouſneſs of the Relations, the only
Defence I have, is by Meltring my ſelf in the Crowd:
For it is a frailty more or leſs incident to moſt Men,
eſpecially Travellers, to abound, both in the ſenſe they
have, and in the Account they give, of their own
Actions and Occurrences. If we light of any thing
worth noting, We are apt to overflow in ſpeaking of it;
and too often We fall into that greater folly of record.
ing ſuch things for very conſiderable ones, as any dis-
intereſted Perſon would be ready to think We could
have no inducement to regard, but only becauſe they
relate to our own ſelves.
This is an Affe&tation, which however taſtfül it
may be to the Perſons who uſe it, yet (I know by my
own Refentments of it) is to others mojt grating and
diſguſtful.
When You come therefore to any ſuch Nauſeous
places in this fournal, You may pleaſe to paſs them
over with that Contempt which they deſerve, but ne-
vertheleſs with ſome Indulgence to the Writer of
them; for if this Vanity may be ever tolerated, Tra-
veller's are the Men who have the beſt Claim to that
Favour. For it ſeems but a Reaſonable Allowance,
that they, whº go through ſo many hazards and fa-
tigues


tiques for the entertainment of others, Jould, in rem
quital for all, be indulged a little in this ſweet folly.
I might, in ſome meafure, have remedied the fault
I am nom apologizing for, by reſcinding the dry part
of the Journal ; deſcribing Roads and Diſtances, and
Bearings of Places. But I conſidered, that this, tho®
dry, was not without its uſe. And beſides, when I
began to Obliterate; I foon found that if I ſhould go
on, and ſtrike out all that I thought not worth writ-
ing to You, there would in the end be nothing but an
univerſal Blot.
Be pleaſed therefore to accept the Whole as it was
firſt ſét down, without Addition or Diminution; do
with it as you pleaſe. When you are tired with read-
ing it, you may ſupport your Patience as we did in
Travelling it over, by conſidering, that what you are
about is a Pilgrimage ; that you need go it but once ;
and that 'tis the proper nature and deſign of ſuch
performances, to have ſomething in them of Morti-
fication.
Honoured Sir,
I am
Your moſt Dutiful Nephew,
and Obliged humble Servant,
Hen. Maundrell.





2 A Journey from Aleppo to feruſalem.
It muſt here be noted, that, in Travelling this Country,
a Man does not meet with a Market-Town, and Inns,
every night, as in England: the beſt reception you can
find here, is either under your own Tent, if the ſeaſon
permit; or elſe in certain publick Lodgments founded
in Charity for the uſe of Travellers. Theſe are called by
the Turks Kanes; and are ſeated ſometimes in the Towns ·
and Villages ; ſometimes at convenient diſtances upon the
open Road. They are built in faſhion of a Cloiſter, en-
compaſſing a Court of thirty or forty Yards ſquare, more
or leſs, according to the meaſure of the Founder's Ability
or Charity. At theſe places all Comers are free to take
Shelter ; paying only a ſmall fee to the Kane-Keeper, and
very often without that acknowlegement. But muſt ex-
pect nothing here generally but bare Walls: as for other
Accommodations, of Meat, Drink, Bed, Fire, Provender;
with theſe it muſt be every ones care to furniſh himſelf.
Saturday, Febr. 27.
From the Honey-Kane we parted very early the next
Mornings and proceeding Weſterly as the day before,
arrived in one hour and half at Oo-rem; an old Village
affording nothing remarkable but the ruins of a ſmall
Church. From Oo-rem we came in half an hour to Keffre;
and in three quarters more to Eſon. At this laſt place
we enter'd into the plains of Kefteen: proceeding in which,
we came in one hour to another Village called Legene,
and half an hour more to Hozano, and in a good hour
more to Kefteen. Our whole Stage this day was about
five hours, our Courſe a little Southerly of the Weſt.
The Plains of Kefteen are of a vaſt Compaſs; extend-
ing to the Southward beyond the reach of the Eye, and
in moſt places very fruitful and well cultivated. At our
firſt deſcent into them at Eſoyn, we counted twenty four
Villages, or places at a diſtance reſembling Villages within
our View from one Station. The Soil is of a reddiſh co-
lour, very looſe and hollow; and you ſee hardly a Stone
in it. Whereas on its Welt ſide, there runs along for many
Miles


A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 3
Miles together a high ridge of Hills, diſcovering nothing
but valt naked Rocks without the leaſt ſign of Mould, or
any uſeful Production: which yields an appearance, as if
Nature had, as it were, in kindneſs to the Husband-man,
purged the whole plain of theſe Stones, and piled them
all up together in that one Mountain. Kefteen it ſelf is
a large plentiful Village on the Weſt ſide of the Plain,
And the adjacent Fields abounding with Corn, give the
Inhabitants great advantage for breeding Pidgeons: in-
fomuch that you find here more Dove-Cots than other.
Houſes. We ſaw at this place, over the door of a Bagnio,
a marble Stone, carved with the Sign of the , and the
Abčce [latei, &c. with a date not legible. It was probably
the Portal of ſome Church in ancient times: for I was
aſſured by the Inhabitants of the Village, that there are
many Ruins of Churches and Convents ſtill to be ſeen
in the Neighbouring rocky Mountains.
Sunday, Feb. 28.
Having a long Stage to go this day, we left Kefteen ve-
ry early: and continuing ſtill in the ſame fruitful Plain
abounding in Corn, Olives and Vines, we came in three
quarters of an hour to Harbanoole; a ſmall Village li-
tuated at the extremity of the Plain, Where, after croſſing
a ſmall aſcent, we came into a very rich Valley called
Rooge. le runs to the South farther than one can diſcern,
but in breadth from Eaſt to Weſt, it extends not above
an hours riding; and is walled in (as it were) on both
Gdes, with high rocky Mountains. Having travelled in
this Valley near four hours, we came to a large Water
called the Lake ( or rather, according to the Oriental
Ayle, the Sea) of Rooge. Thro' the Skirt of this Lake
we were obliged to paſs; and found it no ſmall trouble
to get our Horſes, and much more our loaded Mules thro'
the water and mire. But all the Sea was ſo dried up, and
the road ſo perfe&ly amended at our return, that we could
not then diſcern, ſo much as where the place was, which
had given fo great trouble. From this Lake, we arrived
.
A 2
in


4 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
+
in one hour at Te-ne-ree; a place where we paid our firſt
Caphar.
Theſe Caphars are certain duties which Travellers are
obliged to pay, at ſeveral paſſes upon the Road, to Offi-
cers, who attend in their appointed Stations to receive
them. They were at firſt levied by Chriſtians, to yield a
recompence to the Country for maintaining the ways in
· good repair, and ſcouring them from Arabs, and Robbers.
The Turks keep up ſo gainful an uſage ſtill, pretending
the ſame cauſes for it. But under that pretence, they take
occaſion to exact from Paſſengers, eſpecially Franks, arbi-
trary and unreaſonable Sums; and inſtead of being a ſafe-
guard, prove the greateſt Rogues and Robbers themſelves.
At a large hour beyond this Caphar, our Road led us
over the Mountains, on the Weſt ſide of the Valley of
Rooge. We were near an hour in croſſing them, after
which we deſcended into another Valley running parallel
to the former, and parted from it only by the lait ridge
of Hills. At the firſt deſcent into this Valley is a Village
called Bell-Maez, from which we came in two hours to
Shoggle. Our courſe was for the moſt part of this day,
Weſt-South-Welt. Our ſtage in all ten hours.
Shoggle is a pretty large, but exceeding filthy Town,
ſituated on the River Orontes: over which you paſs by
a Bridge of thirteen ſmall Arches to come at the Town.
The River hereabouts is of a good breadth; and yet ſo
rapid, that it turns great Wheels, made for lifting up the
Water, by its natural ſwiftneſs, without any force added
to it, by confining its Stream. Its Waters are turbid,
and very unwholſome, and its Fiſh worſe; as we found
by experience, there being no Perſon of all our Company,
that had eaten of them over night but found himſelf
much indiſpoſed the next Morning. We lodged here
in a very large and handſome Kane, far exceeding what
is uſually ſeen in this ſort of Buildings. It was founded
by the ſecond Cuperli, and endowed with a competent
Revenue, for ſupplying every Traveller, that takes up his
Quarters in it, with a competent portion of Bread, and
Broth,


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. §
Booth, and Fleſh, which is always ready for thoſe that
demand it, as very few People of the Country fail to do.
There is annext to the Kane, on its Weft ſide, another
Quadrangle, containing apartments for a certain number
of Alms-men; the charitable donation of the ſame Cu-
perli. The Kane we found at our arrival, crouded with
a great number of Turkiſh Hadgees, or Pilgrims bound
for Meccha. But nevertheleſs we met with a peaceable
Reception amongſt them, tho' our Faces were ſet to a
different place.
Monday, Mar. I.
From Shoggle our Road lead us at firſt Weſterly, in or-
der to our croſſing the Mountain on that ſide the Valley.
We arrived at the foot of the aſcent in half an hour, but
met with ſuch rugged and foul ways in the Mountains,
that it took us up two hours to ger clear of them. After
which we deſcended into a third Valley, reſembling the
other Two which we had paſſed before. At the firſt en-
trance into it is a Village called Be-da-me, giving the ſame
Name alſo to the Valley. Having travelled about two
hours in this Valley, we entred into a Woody Mountain-
ous Country, which ends the Baſkalick of Aleppo, and be.
gins that of Tripoli. Our Road here was very Rocky, and
uneven ; but yet the variety, which it afforded, made
ſome amends for that inconvenience. Sometimes it led
us under the cool ſhade of thick trees: ſometimes thro'
narrow Valleys, water'd with freſh murmuring Torrents:
and then for a good while together upon the brink of a
Precipice. And in all places it treated us with the pro-
ſpect of Plants, and Flowers of divers kinds : as Myrtles,
Oleanders, Cyclamens, Anemonies, Tulips, Marygolds, and
ſeveral other forts of Aromatick Herbs. Having ſpent
about two hours in this manner we deſcended into a low
Valley; at the bottom of which is a Fiſſure into the Earth,
of a great depth ; but withal ſo narrow, that it is not
diſcernible to the Eye till you arrive juſt upon it. Tho'
to she Ear a notice of it is given at a great diſtance, by
- realon


6 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem,
is as it were, fav’n
which effect the down into this
reaſon of the Noiſe of a Stream running down into it
from the Hills. We could not gueſs it to be leſs than
thirty Yards deep. But it is fo narrow, that a ſmall Arch
not four Yards over, lands you on its other ſide. They
call it the Shecks Wife: A Name given it from a Woman
of that Quality, who fell into it, and, I need not add,
periſhed. The depth of the Channel, and the noiſe of
the Water, are ſo extraordinary, that one cannot paſs
over it without fomething of Horrour. The ſides of this
Fiſſure are firm and folid Rock, perpendicular and ſmooth,
only ſeeming to lie in a wavy form all down, as it were
to comply with the motion of the Water. From which
obſervation we were led to conjecture, that the Stream,
by a long and perpetual current had, as it were, faw'n
its own Channel down into this unuſual deepnefs : to
which effect, the Water's being penned up in ſo narrow a
paffage, and its hurling down Siones along with it by its
rapidity, may have not a little contributed.
From hence, continuing our courſe throa Road re-
ſembling that before defcribed, we arrived in one hour
at a ſmall even part of ground called Hadyar ib Sultane,
or the Sultan's Stone. And here we took up our Quar-
ters, this Night under our Tents. Our Road this day
pointed for the moſt part South Welt, and the whole of
our Stage was about leven hours and a half.
Tueſday, March 2.
We were glad to part very early this Morning from
our Campagnia lodging; the weather being yet too moiſt
and cold for ſuch diſcipline. Continuing our Journey
thro' Woods and Mountains, as the day before, we ar-
rived in about one hour at the Caphar of Cruſia, which
is demanded near a Kane of that Name; a Kane they call
it, tho'it be in truth nothing elſe, but a cold comfort-
leſs Ruin on the top of a Hill by the way Gide.
From hence in about another hour we arrived at the
foot of a Mountain called Occaby; or as the word die-
notes, difficult, and indeed we found its aſcent fully an-
ſwerable


Three Inſcriptions over the Caſtle gate
of Corus.
pag.7.
+Bonnicapioy CTPATE
Heyca 010 YAO
λατονΑΥΞιΝΙΚΗ + . +/cγετιΝιΑΝογκτον Ν εκτικογποΛΑΤΑ
BACINEwe nond ETH ATW otorxa
TA ETH to evawpac
47 OYCTACIONS :
ТА етн
On a stone amongst ý. grave stones near ý.
great Sepulcher at Corus.
DM:
VIIP. VICTORI MM'LIINI
O LEG* V11-CLEX-Z 11.PR .
POSTY VIXIT-ANN*XXXVIII
MILITAVIT ANN-XVIYAVR
MARTINVS-MILLE G-IIII
FL; FRATER- ET SECVNDVS
HERES, FRATRI* EXPR
O VINCIA-MOES 'SVPER
REG ♡ VIMINAC
Fx B:MP ♡
Another in ý. Sameplace very imperfect.
AVR VIND EX-
MILLE 'VII CMX.
"pag.159 Bwg. ſculp.


· A Journey from Aleppo to Ferufalem. so
(werable to its Name. The moiſture and ſlipperineſs of
the way at this time, added to the ſteepneſs of it, greatly
encreaſed our labour in aſcending it. Inſomuch that we
were a fall hour in gaining the top of the Hill. Here
we found no more Woods or Hills, but a fine Country,
well cultivated and planted with Silk Gardens : thro
which, leaving on the right hand a Village called Citte
Galle, inhabited ſolely by Maronites, we came in one hour
to Bellulca. Here we repaired to a place which is both
the Kane of the Village, and the Aga's Houſe; and re-
folving by reaſon of the Rains, which fell very plentiful-
ly, to make this our Lodging, we went to viſit the Agu
with a ſmall preſent in our hands, in order to procure
our felves a civil Reception. But we found little recom-
pence from his Turkiſh gratitude, for after all our reſpect
to him; it was not without much importunity that we
obtain'd to have the uſe of a dry part of the Houſe. The.
place where we were at firſt Lodged lying open to the
Wind and the bearing in of the Rain. Our whole Stage
this day was not much above four hours, our courſe about
South Weſt.
Being imform'd that here were ſeveral Chriſtian Inha-
bitants in this place, we went to viſit their Church, which,
we found fo poor and pitiful a Structure, that here Chris
ftianity ſeem'd to be brought to its humbleſt State, and
Chriſt to be laid again in a Manger. It was only a Room
of about four or five Yards ſquare, walld with Dirt,
having nothing but the aneven ground for its Pavement;
and for its Cieling only fome rude Traves laid athwart it,
and cover'd with Buſhes to keep out the Weather. On
the Eaſt fide was an Altar, built of the ſame Materials
with the Wall; only it was paved at top with Pot-fherds
and Slates, to give it the face of a Table. In the middle
of the Altar ſtood a ſmall Croſs composd of two Laths
naild together in the middle: on each ſide of which
enlign were faftned to the Wall two or three old Prints
repreſenting our Bleſſed Lord and the Bleſſed Virgin, .
· The Venerable preſents of fome Itinerant Fryars, that
had


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 9
very averſe to: well knowing, by that Mornings expe-
rience, the badneſs of the Road; and likewiſe having
reaſon to expect but a cold welcome at our Journeys end,
As for Lodging in the Village, that was a thing not to
be endured : for the Houſes were all filld with Dirt and
Naſtineſs, being inhabited promiſcuouſly by the Villagers
and their Cattle. As for lying in the Campagnia, the
Rain was ſo vehement we could not do that, without an
evident danger both to our ſelves and Horſes.
But whilſt we were at this non-plus, not knowing which
courſe to take, the Rain abated; and ſo we reſolved to
pitch in the open Field, tho' thorowly ſoaked with the
wet, eſteeming this, however, the leaſt evil. Accordingly
we betook our Selves to a ſmall aſcent by the water's
fide, intending there, under our Tents, to wait the falling
of the Stream.
We had not enjoy'd this ceſſation of Rain long, when
it began to pour down afreſh, with terrible Lightning
and Thunder. And now our Care was renewed, and we
knew not well which to be moſt concern’d for; whether
our Selves, who enjoyed the miſerable comfort of a drop-
ping Tent over us, or for our Servants and Horſes, which
had nothing but their own Cloaths to protect them. At
laſt, there being a ſmall Shecks Houſe, or Burying-place
hard by, we comforted our Selves with hopes that we
might take Sanctuary there. The only difficulty was, how
to get admiſſion into ſo reverenc'd a place; the Turks
being generally Men of greater Zeal than Mercy. To
negotiate this affair, we ſent a Turk (whom we had taken
with us for ſuch occaſions) into the Village; ordering
him to try firſt by fair means to gain admittance, and, if
that fail'd, to threaten that we would enter by force. But
the Religion of this place was of that kind which ſuper-
ſedes, inſtead of improving Humanity. The people abſo-
lutely deny'd us the ſmall Charity we demanded; and
ſent us word they would die upon our Swords,before they
would yield to have their Faith defild: adding farther,
that it was their Faith to be true to Hamet and Aly, but
to


10 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
to hate and renounce Omar and Abu Beker; and that
this principle they were reſolv'd to stand by. We told
them we had as bad an opinion of Omar and Abu Beker
as they could have: That we deſir'd only a little ſhelter
from the preſent Rain, and had no intention to defile
their Faith. And thus with good words, we brought
them to conſent, that we might ſecure our Baggage in
the Shecks Houſe; but as for our Selves and Arms, 'twas
our irreverſible ſentence to be excluded out of the hal-
low'd Walls. We were glad however, to get the Merci-
leſs Doors open upon any terms; not doubting, but we
ſhould be able to make our advantage of it afterwards
according to our deſire: Which we actually did; for when
it grew dark, and the Villagers were gone to ſleep, we
all got into the place of refuge,' and there paſſed a Me-
lancholy Night among the Tombs: Thus eſcaping, how-
ever, the greater evil of the Rain which fell all Night in
great abundance.'
Being now crept into the inſide of the Shecks Houſe,
I muſt not omit, in requital for our Lodgings, to give
fome account of the nature of ſuch Structures. They are
ſtone Fabricks generally fix or eight Yards ſquare (more
or leſs ) and roofed with a Cupola, erected over the
Graves of ſome eminent Shecks, that is, ſuch Perſons, as
by their long Beards, Prayers of the ſame ſtandard, and a
kind of Phariſaical ſuperciliouſneſs (which are the great
Virtues of the Mahometan Religion) have purchas'd to
themſelves the reputation of Learning and Saints.
Of theſe Buildings there are many ſcatter'd up and
down the Country; (for you will find among the Turks
far more dead Saints than living ones.) They are ſituated
commonly, tho' not always, upon the moſt eminent and
conſpicuous Aſcents. To theſe Oratories the people re-
pair with their Vows and Prayers, in their ſeveral die
ſtreſſes, much after the ſame manner, as the Romaniſts
do to the ſhrines of their Saints. Only, in this reſpect
the practice of the Turks ſeems to be more Orthodox, in
regard that, tho’they make their Saint's Irine the Houſe
·
of


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. II
likewiſe a
lituate on a Arace to the Weltwaw
II
of Prayer; yet they always make God alone, and not the
Saint, the object of their addreſſes.
Thurſday, March 4.
To revive us after the heavineſs of the laſt Night, we
had the conſolation to be informed this Morning, that
the River was fordable at a place a little farther down
the Stream; and upon experiment we found it true as
was reported. Glad of this diſcovery, we made the beſt
diſpatch we could to get clear of this inhoſpitable place;
and according to our deſires, ſoon arriv'd, with all our :
Baggage, on the other ſide of the River.
From hence, aſcending gently for about half an hour,
we came to the foot of a very ſteep Hill, which, when -
we had reached its top, preſented us with the firſt pro-
fpect of the Ocean. We had in view likewiſe at about
two hours diſtance to the Weſtward, the City Latichea,
ſituate on a flat fruitful ground cloſe by the Sea; A City
firſt Built by Seleucus Nicator, and by him callid, in hoc
nour of his Mother, Acosixed, which Name it retains, with
a very little corruption of it, at this day. It was anciently
a place of great Magnificence; but in the general Cala-
mity which befel this Country, it was reduced to a very
low condition, and ſo remain'd for a long time; But of
late Years it has been encouraged to hold up its head
again, and is rebuilt, and become one of the moſt flou-
riſhing places upon the Coalt; being cheriſhed, and put
in a way of Trade by Coplan Aga, a Man of great wealth
and authority in theſe parts, and much addicted to Mer-
chandiſe.
From the Hill which we laſt afcended, we had a ſmall
deſcent into a ſpacious Plain, along which we travelled
Southward, keeping the Sea on the right hand, and a
ridge of Mountains on the left. Having gone about one
hour and a half in this Plain, we diſcern'd on the left
hand, not far from the Road, two ancient Tombs. They
were Cheſts of Stone two Yards and a half long each.
Their Cavities were cover'd over with large Tables of
Stone,
Southward, botains on the lin: we diſcerndombs. They
B 2


12 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
Stone, that had been lifted aſide probably în hopes of
Treaſure. The Cheſts were carved on the outſide with
Ox-heads, and wreathes hanging between them, after the
manner of adorning Heathen Altars. They had like-
wiſe at firſt, Inſcriptions graven on them : But theſe were
ſo eaten out, that One could not diſcover ſo much as the
ſpecies of the Characters. Here were alſo ſeveral foun-
dations of Buildings; but whether there were ever any
place of Note ſituated hereabouts, or what it might be,
I cannot reſolve.
Above an hour from theſe Tombs we came to another
Stream, which ſtopp'd our March again. Theſe Moun-
tain Rivers are ordinarily very inconſiderable: But they
are apt to ſwell upon ſudden Rains, to the deſtruction
of many a Paſſenger, who will be ſo hardy as to venture
unadviſedly over them. We took a more ſucceſsful care
at this place; for Marching about an hour higher up by
the ſide of the Stream, we found a place, where the wa-
ters by dilating were become ſhallower, and there we got
a ſafe paſſage to the other ſide. From hence we bent our
Courſe to recover our former Road again; but we had
not gone far, before there began a very violent Storm of
Hail follow'd by a hard and continued Rain, which forced
us to make the beſt of our way to Febilee, leaving our
Baggage to follow us at leiſure.
Our whole Stage this day was about ſix hours, pointing
for the firſt hour Welt, and for the remaining part near
South, having the Sea on the right hand, and a ridge of
Mountains at about two hours diſtance on the left. And in
this ſtate ourRoad continued for ſeveral days after without
any difference, ſave only that the Mountains at ſome places
approach nearer the Sea; at other retire farther off. Theſe
Mountains go under different Names in ſeveral places, as
they run along upon the Coaſt, and are inhabited by rude
People of ſeveral denominations. In that partofthem above
Febilee, there dwell a people, called by the Turks Neceres,
of a very ſtrange and ſingular Character. For 'tis their
principle toadhere to no certain Religion; butChamæleon-
like,


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 13
like, they put on the Colour of Religion, whatever it
be, which is reflected upon them from the Perſons with
whom they happen to converſe. With Chriſtians they
profeſs themſelves Chriſtians; With Turks they are good
Muſſelmans; With Jews they paſs for Jews; being ſuch
Proteus's in Religion, that no body was ever able to diſ-
cover what ſhape or ſtandard their Conſciences are really
of. All that is certain concerning them is, that they make
very much good Wine, and are great Drinkers.
Friday, Mar.s
This whole day we ſpent at Febilee to recruit our
Selves after our late fatigues; having the convenience of
a new Kane to lodge in, Built at the North entrance into
the City, by Oſtan the preſent Baſha of Tripoli.
Febilee is ſeated cloſe by the Sea, having a vaſt, and
very fruitful Plain ſtretching round about it, on its other
fides. It makes a very mean figure at preſent: Tho'it
ſtill retains the diſtinction of a City, and diſcovers evi-
dent footſteps of a better condition in former times. Its
Ancient Name, from which alſo it derives its preſent,
was Gabala; under which Name it occurs in Strabo, and
other old Geographers. In the time of the Greek Em-
perours, it was dignify'd with a Biſhop's See. In which
ſometimes fate Severian, the Grand Adverſary and Arch-
Conſpirator againſt Chryfoftom.
The moſt remarkable things, that appear here at this
day, are a Moſque, and an Alms-houſe juſt by it, both
Built by Sultan Ibrahim. In the former his Body is de-
poſited, and we were admitted to ſee his Tomb, tho'held
by the Turks in great Veneration. We found it only a
great wooden Cheft, erected over his Grave, and cover'd
with a Carpet of painted Calico, extending on all ſides
down to the ground. It was alſo trick'd up with a great
many long Ropes of wooden Beads hanging upon it, and
ſomewhat reſembling the furniture of a Button-maker's
Shop. This is the Turks uſual way of adorning the
Tombs of their holy Men, as I have ſeen in ſeveral other
inſtances.


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. Is
did it at firſt in teſtimony of their Iconoclaſtick prin-
ciple; and to expreſs to them both the reality of the Di.
vine preſence there, and at the ſame time alſo its Inviſi-
bility. The Relators of this Story of Sultan Ibrahim were
doubtleſs fully perſuaded of the truth of it themſelves.
But we could not tell what conjectures to make of it,
having never met with any account of ſuch a Sultan, but
only from this rude Tradition.
From theſe Mahometan Sanctuaries, our Guide pre-
tended to carry us to a Chriſtian Church, about two fur-
longs out of Town on the South fide. When we came
to it, we found it nothing but a ſmall Grotto in a Rock,
by the Sea ſhore, open on the ſide towards the Sea; and
· having a rude pile of Stones erected in it for an Altar.
In our return from this poor Chapel, we met with the
Perſon who was the Curate of it. He told us that Him-
ſelf and ſome few other Chriſtians of the Greek Commu-
nion, were wont to aſſemble in this humble Cell for Di-.
vine Service, being not permitted to have any place of
Worſhip within the Town.
Febilee ſeems to have had Anciently ſome convenience
for Shipping. There is ſtill to be ſeen a ridge compos'd
of huge ſquare Stones running a little way into the Sea;
which appears to have been formerly continued farther
on, and to have made a Mole. Near this place we ſaw
a great many Pillars of Granite, ſome by the Water fide,
others tumbled into the Water. There were others in a
Garden cloſe by, together with Capitals of white Marble
finely caro'd; which teſtify in ſome meaſure the Ancient
Splendor of this City.
But the moſt conſiderable Antiquity in Jebilee, and
greateſt Monument of its former Eminency, is the re-
mains of a Noble Theater juſt at the North Gate of the
City. It paſſes amongſt the Turks for an old Caſtle ;
which (according to the Aſiatick way of enlarging) they
report to have been of ſo prodigious a height, when in
its perfect ſtate, that a Horſeman might have rid, about
Sun-riſing, a full hour in the ſhade of it.
- As
to Febitel wich; being
SP But Montable


16 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
As for what remains of this mighty Babel, it is no more
than twenty Foot high. The flat ſide of it has been
blown up with Gun-powder by the Turks. And from
hence ( as they related) was taken a great quantity of
Marble, which we ſaw uſed in adorning their Bagnio and
Moſque before mentioned. All of it that is now ſtand-
ing is the Semi-Circle. It extends from corner to corner
jult a hundred Yards. In this Semi-Circular part, is a
range of ſeventeen round Windows juſt above the ground,
and between the Windows all round were raiſed, on high
Pedeſtals, large Maſſy Pillars, ſtanding as Buttreſſes
againſt the Wall, both for the ſtrength and ornament
of the Fabrick; but theſe ſupporters are at preſent moſt
of them broken down.
Within is a very large Arena, but the juſt meaſure of
it could not be taken, by reaſon of the Houſes with which
the Turks have almoſt fill'd it up. On the Weſt ſide, the
feats of the Spectators remain ſtill entire, as do likewiſe
the Caves or Vaults which run under the Subſellia all
round the Theater. The outward Wall is three Yards
three quarters thick, and built of very large and firm
Stones; which great ſtrength has preſerv'd it thus long
from the Jaws of time, and from that general ruin, which
the Turks bring with them into moſt places where they
come.
Saturday, Mar. 6.
Having done with Febilee, we put forward again early
the next Morning, with a proſpect of much better wea-
ther than we had been attended with, in our former mo-
tions. Our Road continued by the Sea ſide, and in about
two hours, brought us to a fair deep River, called by
the Turks Naher-il-Melech, or the King's River. Here
we ſaw ſome heaps of ruins on both ſides of the River,
with ſeveral Pillars of Granite, and other footſteps of
ſome conſiderable Buildings. About half an hour far-
ther we paſſed another River called Jobar, Mewing the
remains of a Stone-bridge over it, once well Built but
pow


18 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
their See, by reaſon of the inſults of the Saracens.
At about one hour and a half diſtance from Baneas, we
came to a ſmall clear Stream, which induced us to take
up our Lodging near it. We pitch'd in the Campagnia
about two or three furlongs up from the Sea ; having
in ſight, on the Mountains above us, a Village called So-
phia, inhabited ſolely by Maronites; and a little farther
Beſack, another Village pofleſs'd by Turks only; and a
little farther Merakiah, whoſe Inhabitants are a Miſcel-
lany of Chriſtians and Turks together. Our whole Stage
this day was about fix hours.
Sunday, Mar. 7.
From this Quarter we remov'd early the next Morning,
and in three hours came to a fair deep River called Nahor
Hußine ; having an old Bridge turn'd over it, conſiſting
of only one Arch, but that very large and exceeding well
wrought. In one hour and a half more, travelling Still
by the Sea fide, we reach'd Tortoſa.
The ancient Name of this place was Orthoſia. It was
a Biſhop's See in the Province of Tyre. The Writers of
the holy Wars make frequent mention of it, as a placé
of great ſtrength. And one may venture to believe them,
from what appears of it at this day.
Its ſituation is on the Sea More; having a ſpacious
Plain extending round about it on its other ſides. What
remains of it is the Caſtle, which is very large and ſtill
inhabited. On one ſide, it is waſh'd by the Sea; on the
others, it is fortified by a double Wall of coarſe Marble, -
Built after the Ruſtick manner. Between the two Walls
is a Ditch; as likewiſe is another encompaſſing the outer-
moft Wall. You enter this Fortreſs on the North ſide,
over an old Draw-bridge, which lands you in a ſpacious
Room now for the moſt part uncover'd, but anciently
well arch'd over, being the Church belonging to the Ca-
Itle. On one ſide it reſembles a Church, and in witneſs of
its being ſuch, News at this day, ſeveral holy Emblems
carv'd upon its Wall, as that of a Dove deſcending, over
the


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 19
the place where ſtood the Altar; and in another place
that of the Holy-Lamb. But on the ſide which fronts
outward, it has the face of a Caſtle, being built with Port-
holes for Artillery, inſtead of Windows. Round the Caſtle
on the South and Eaſt ſides, ſtood anciently the City. It
had a good Wall and Ditch encompaſſing it, of which
there are ſtill to be ſeen conſiderable remains. But for
other Buildings, there is now nothing left in it, except a
Church, which ſtands about a furlong Eaſtward from the
Caſtle. It is one hundred and thirty foot in length, in
breadth ninety three, and in height ſixty one. Its Walls,
and Arches, and Pillars, are of a Baſtard Marble, and all
ſtill fo entire, that a ſmall expence would ſuffice to re-
cover it into the ſtate of a beautiful Church again. But,
to the grief of any Chriſtian Beholder, it is now made a
ſtall for Cattle, and we were, when we went to ſee it, al-
moft up to our knees in Dire and Mire.
From Tortoſa we ſent our baggage before us, with or-
ders in advance a few Miles farther toward Tripoli, to
the intent that we might ſhorten our Stage to that place
the next day. We follow'd not long after, and in about
a quarter of an hour came to a River, or rather a Chan-
nel of a River, for it was now almoſt dry: Tho' que-
ſtionleſs here muſt have been anciently no incongderable
Stream; as we might infer both from the largeneſs of the
Channel, and the fragments of a Stone-bridge, formerly
laid over it.
"In about half an hour more, we came a Breaſt with a
ſmall Iland, about a league diſtant from the ſhore, called
by the Turks Ru-ad. This is ſuppoſed to be the ancient
Arpad, Arphad, or Arpad, (under which ſeveral names it
occurs, 2 Kin. 19. 13. Gen. 10. 18. Ezek. 27. 11. &c.)
and the Aradus of the Greeks and Romans. It ſeemed
to the Eye to be not above two or three furlongs long;
and was wholly filled up with tall Buildings like Caſtles.
The ancient Inhabitants of this Iſland were famous for
, Navigation, and had a command upon the Continent as
far as Gabala.
C2
: About


. 20 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
About a quarter of an hour farther, we came up with
our Muliteers; they having pitched our Tents, before
they had gone ſo far as we intended. But this Miſcarriage
they well recompenſed, by the condition of the place
where they ſtopp'd; it affording us the Entertaiment of
ſeveral notable Antiquities, which we might otherwiſe
perhaps have paſs’d by unobſerv'd. It was at a green Plat
İying within one hour of Tortoſa, a little Southward of
Aradus, and about a quarter of a mile from the Sea, having
in it a good Fountain (tho' of a bad name) called the
in it a mountain.
iry that we h
The firſt Antiquity that we here obſerved, was a large
Dike thirty yards over at top, cut into the firm Rock.
Its fides went ſoping down with Stairs form'd out of the
natural Rock, deſcending gradually from the top to the
bottom. This Dike ſtretch'd in a dire& line, Eaſt and
Weſt more than a furlong, bearing ſtill the ſame figure
of Stairs running in right lines all along its ſides. It broke
off at laſt at a flat marſhy ground, extending about two
furlongs betwixt it and the Sea. It is hard to imagine that
the Water ever flow'd up thus high; and harder (with-
out ſuppoſing that) to reſolve, for what reaſon all this
pains of cutting the Rock in ſuch a faſhion, was taken.
This Dike was on the North Gde of the Serpent Foun-
tain; and juſt on the other ſide of it, we eſpy'd another
Antiquity, which took up our next obſervation. There
was a Court of fifty five yards ſquare, cut in the natural
Rock; the ſides of the Rock Itanding round it, about
three yards high, ſupplying the place of Walls. On three
Gides it was thus encompaſled; but to the Northward it
lay open. In the Center of this Area was a ſquare part
of the Rock left ſtanding; being three yards high and five
yards and a half ſquare. This ſerv'd for a Pedeſtal to a
Throne erected upon it. The Throne was compos'd of
four large Stones, two at the Sides, one at the Back, an-
other hanging over all at Top, in the manner of a Canopy.
The whole Strudure was about twenty foot high, front-
ing toward that ſide where the Court was open. The Stone
that





pag. 21:22.
1
MB.Sculp.


22 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
Each of theſe barbarous Monuments had under it fe-
veral Sepulchers; the Entrances into which, were on the
Şouth lide. It coſt us ſome time and pains to get into
them; the Avenues being obſtrueted, firſt with Briars and
Weeds, and then with Dirt, But however we remov'd
both theſe Obſtacles; encouraging our ſelves with the
Hopes, or rather making our felves merry with the Fancy,
of hidden Treaſure. But as ſoon as we were enter'd into
the Vaults, we found that our golden Imaginations ended
(as all worldly hopes and projects do at laſt) in Duſt, and
Putrefaction. But however, that we might not go away
without ſome reward for our pains, we took as exact a
ſurvey as we could of theſe Chambers of darkneſs; which
were diſpos'd in ſuch manner as is expreſs’d in the fol-
lowing Figures.
The Chambers under the Tower (a) lay as is repres
ſented in the firſt Figure. Going down feven or eight
ſteps, you come to the mouth of the Sepulcher; where
crawling in, you arrive in the Chamber (1) which is nine
foot two inches broad, and eleven foot long. Turning to
the right hand, and going thro' a narrow Paſſage, you come
to the Room (2) which is eight foot broad, and ten long.
In this Chamber are ſeven Cells for Corpſes, viz.two over-
againſt the entrance, four on the left hand, and one une
finiſh'd on the right. Thele Cells were hewn dire&ly into
the firm Rock. We meaſur'd ſeveral of them, and found
them eight foot and an half in length, and three foot
three inches fgyare. I would not infer from hence that
the Corpſes depoſited here, were of ſuch a Gigantick ſize,
as to fill up ſuch large Coffins : Tho'at the ſame time,
why ſhould any Men be ſo prodigal of their labour, as to
cut theſe Caverns into ſo hard a Rock as this was, much
farther than Neceffity requir'd ?
· On the other fide of the Chamber (1) was a narrow
paſſage ſeven foot long, leading into the Room (3) whoſe
Dimenſions were nine foot in breadth and twelve ia length.
It had eleven Cells, of ſomewhat a leſs ſize than the for-
mer, lying at equal diſtances all round about it.
Paſſing


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. . 23
Paſſing out of the Room (1) fore-riglit, you have two
narrow entrances, each ſeven foot long, into the Room (4).
This Apartment was nine foot ſquare: It had no Cells in
it like the others; Nor any thing elſe remarkable, but
only a Bench, cut all along its ſide on the left hand.
From the Deſcription of this Sepulcher, it is eaſy to con-
ceive the Diſpoſition of the other, which is repreſented
in the figure (5.6). The height of the Rooms in Both,
was about fix foot; and the Towers were built each over
the innermoſt Room of the Sepulchers, to which it be-
longed.
At about the diſtance of a furlong from this place, we
diſcern'd another Tower, reſembling this laſt deſcrib'd.
It was erected likewiſe over a Sepulcher, of which you
have the Delineation in the figure (2) and (8). There was
this Singularity obſervable in this laſt Sepulcher; that its
Cells were cut into the Rock eighteen foot in length,
poſſibly to the intent, that two or three Corpſes might
be depoſited in each of them, at the feet of one another.
But having a long Stage this day to Tripoli, we thought
it not ſeaſonable to ſpend any more time in this place;
which might perhaps have afforded us ſeveral other An-
tiquities.
And yet for all our hafte, we had not gone a Mile, be-
fore our Curioſity was again arreſted by the Obſerýation
of another Tower, which appear'd in á Thicket not far
from the way fide. It was thirty three foot and a half
high, and thirty one foot ſquare; compos'd of huge ſquare
Stones, and adorn’d with a handſome Corniſh all round
at Top. It containd only two Rooins, one above the
other; into Both which, there were Entrances on the
North-ſide thro'two ſquare holes in the Wall. The Se-
paration between Both Rooms, as alſo the Covering at
the top, was made, not of Arch’d-work, but of valt flat
Stones; in thickneſs four foot, and ſo great an Extent,
that two of tliem in each place, ſufficed to ſpread over the
whole Fabrick. This was a very ancient Structure, and
probably a place of Sepulture.
I muſt


- 24 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
I muſt not forget, that round about the Serpent Foun-
tain, and alſo as far as this laſt Tower, we ſaw many Se-
pulchers, old Foundations, and other remains of Anti-
quity. From all which it may be aſſuredly concluded, that
here muſt needs have been ſome famous Habitation in an-
cient Times: But whether this might be the Ximyra, laid
down by Strabo hereabouts (or as Pliny calls it, Lib.s. Nat.
Hiſt. Cap.20. Simyra) the ſame poſſibly with the Country
of the Zemarites, mention'd in conjunction with the Ağa
padites, Gen. 10. 18. I leave to others to diſcuſs.
Having quitted our ſelves of theſe Antiquities, we en-
ter'd into a ſpacious Plain, extending to a vaſt breadth,
between the Sea and the Mountains; and in length reach-
ing almoſt as far as Tripoli. The People of the Country
call it Junia, that is, the Plain; which name they give it
by way of Eminency, upon account of its vaſt Extent.
We were full ſeven hours in paſſing it; and found it all
along exceeding fruitful, by reaſon of the many Rivers
and the great plenty of Water, which it enjoys. Of theſe
Rivers, the firſt is about fix hours before you come to Tri-
poli. It has a Stone-Bridge over it, of three large Arches;
and is the biggeſt Stream in the whole Plain : For which
reaſon it goes by the name of Nahor il Kibber, or the great
River. About half an hour farther you come to another
River, called Nahor Abroſ, or the Leper's River. In
three quarters of an hour more you paſs a third River,
called Nahor Acchar; having a handſome Stone-Bridge, of
one very large Arch, laid over it. Two good hours more
bring you to a fourth River, called or the cold
Waters, with a Bridge of three Arches over it. From
hence you have two good hours more to Tripoli. I took
the more exact account of all theſe Streams, to the intent
that I might give ſome light, for the better deciding that
difference which is found in Geographers, about the
place of the River Eleutherus. The Moderns, all with
one conſent, give that name to a River between Tyre and
Sidon, called by the Turks Caſimeer. But this contra-
dicts the univerſal Teſtimony of the Ancients, who place
Eleua
:


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 25
chihe Möbid tooner Pliny's Authich'I
Eleutherus more Northward. Strabo will have it fome-
where between Orthoſis and Tripoli, as a Boundary di-
viding Syria from Phanicia (p. 918.) Pliny places it near
Orthoſia, emplying it felf into the Sea over againlt Aradus,
Nat. Hift. Lib. s. C. 20. The Writer of the Maccabees,
i Macc.12. 25. 30. lay's it in the Land of Hamath; which
Country, whatever it were, was certainly without the
Borders of Iſrael, as appears from the ſame Author. To
this Joſephus agrees, placing Eleutherus to the North of
Sidon, as may be collected from him, Lib. 14. Antiq. Jud.
Cap. 7. 8. where, ſpeaking of Mark Antony's Donation to
Cleopatra, he reports, how that Extravagant Gallant gave
her all the Cities between Eleutherus and Egypt, except
Tyre and Sidon. Ptolemy, as cited by Terranius, places it
yet more Northerly, between Orthoſia and Balanea. From
all which it is evident, that this cannot be the true an-
cient Eleutherus which the Moderns afſign for it. But that
Name is rather to be aſcrib'd to one of theſe Rivers,
croſſing the Plain of Junia: Or elſe (if Pliny's Authority
may be rely'd upon ) to that River (now dry which I
mention'd a little on this ſide of Tortoſa, and which has
its Mouth almoſt oppoſite to Aradus. But I will not
determine any thing in this point, contenting my ſelf to
have given an account of the ſeveral Rivers as we paſs'd
them.
Tueſday, Mar. 9.
Drawing towards Tripoli, our Muleciers were afraid to
advance, left their Beaſts might be preſs'd for publick
ſervice; as they were afterwards, in ſpight of all their
Caution, to our great Vexation. So we left them in the
Plain of Funis, and proceeded our ſelves for Tripoli; where
we arriv'd about Sun-ſet. Our whole Stage this day was
ten hours.
Ar Tripoli we repos'd a full Week, being very gene-
rouſly entertain'd by Mr Francis Haſtings the Conſul, and
Mr John Fiſher Merchant; theirs being the only Engliſh
Houſe in Tripoli.
Tripoli


26 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
Tripoli is feated about half an hour from the Sea. The
major part of the City lies between two Hills; one on the
Eaſt, on which is a Caſtle commanding the place; another
on the Weſt, between the City and the Sea. This latter
is ſaid to have been at firſt rais'd, and to be ſtill encreas'd
by the dayly acceſſion of Sand, blown to it from the
Shore: Upon which occaſion there goes a Prophecy, that
the whole City ſhall in time be buried with this Sandy
Hill. But the Turks ſeem not very apprehenſive of this
Prediction; for inſtead of preventing the growth of the
Hill, they ſuffer it to take its Courſe, and make it a place
of Pleaſure, which they would have little inclination to
do, did they apprehend it were ſometime to be their
Grave.
Wedneſday, Mar. 1o.
This day we were all treated by Mr Fiſher in the Cam-
pagnia. The place where we dined was a narrow plea-
Tant Valley by à River's ſide, diſtant from the City about
a Mile Eaſt-ward. A-croſs the Valley there runs from
Hill to Hill a handſome lofty Aqueduct, carrying upon
it ſo large a body of Water, as ſuffices the whole City.
It was called the Princes-Bridge, ſuppos'd to have been
Built by Godfrey of Bulloign.
Thurſday, Mar. II.
This day we all dined at Conſul Haſtings's Houſe, and
after dinner went to wait upon Oſtan the Baffa of Tripoli,
having firſt ſent our Preſent, as the manner is amongſt
the Turks, to procure a propitions reception.
It is counted uncivil to viſit in this Country without
an Offering in hand. All great Men expect it as a kind
of Tribute due to their Character and Authority; and
look upon themſelves as affronted, and indeed defrauded,
when this Compliment is omitted. Even in familiar Viſits
amongſt inferiour People, you ſhall feldom have them
come without bringing a Flower, or an Orange, or ſome
other ſuch token of their reſpect to the Perſon viſited :
The


A Journey from Aleppo to Ferufalem. 27
The Turks, in this point, keeping up the ancient Oriental
Cuſtom hinted, 1 Sam. 9.7. If we go ( fays Saul) what
Shall we bring the man of God? there is not a preſent, &c.
which words are queſtionleſs to be underſtood in confor-
mity to this Eaſtern Cuſtom, as relating to a token of
Refpect, and not to a price of Divination.
Friday, Mar. 12.
In the Afternoon we went to viſit Bell-Mount a Con-
vent of Greeks, about two hours to the Southward of
Tripoli. It was founded by one of the Earls of Tripoli,
and ſtands upon a very high Rocky Mountain, looking
over the Sea; a place of very difficult Aſcent, tho'made
as acceffible as it was capable by the labour of the poor
Monks. It was our fortune to arrive there juſt as they
were going to their Evening Service. Their Chapel is
large, but obſcure; and the Altar is inclos'd with Cancelli,
ſo as not to be approach'd by any one but the Prieſt, ac-
cording to the faſhion of the Greek Churches. They call
their Congregation together, ty beating a kind of a Tune
with two Mallets on a long pendulous piece of plank at
the Church door; Bells being an abomination to the
Turks.
Their ſervice conſiſted in precipitate, and very irreve-
rent chattering of certain Prayers and Hymns to our bler-
fed Saviour, and to the bleſſed Virgin, and in ſome dark
Ceremonies; the Prieſt, that officiated, ſpent at leaſt one
third part of his time, in compaſſing the Altar, and per-
fuming it with a pot of Incenſe, and then going all round
the Congregation, flinging his Incenſe-pot backward and
forward, and tendring its ſmoak with three repeated
Vibrations to every perſon preſent. Towards the end
of the Service, there was brought into the Body of the
Church, a ſmall Table, cover'd with a fair linnen Cloth,
on which were placed five ſmall Cakes of Bread croſs
way in this form , and in the Center of each Cake
was fix'd a ſmall lighted wax Taper, a hole in the Cake
ferving for a Socket.
D2
At


28 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
At this Ceremony,the Prieſt read the Goſpel concerning
our Lord's feeding the Multitude with five Loaves. After
which, the Bread was carried into the Cancelli, and be-
ing there ſuddainly broke to Bits, was again brought out
in a Basket, and preſented to every one in the Aſſembly,
that he might take a little. After this Collation the Prieſt
pronounc'd the Bleſſing, and ſo the Service ended. On
both ſides of the Body of the Church, were ſeats for the
Monks, in the nature of the Stalls for the Fellows of
Colleges in Oxford; and on each hand of every Seat were
placed Crutches. Theſe you find in like manner in moſt
Churches of this Country. Their uſe is for the Prieſt to
lean upon: Their Service being ſometimes ſo long, that
they cannot well ſtay it out, without the aſſiſtance of ſuch
Eaſements; for they are not permitted by their Rubrick
to ſit down. The younger Monks, who perhaps may have
no great occaſion for theſe Supporters, do yet delight
to uſe them (as the Spaniards do Spectacles) not for any
Neceſſity, but in affectation of Gravity.
The Monks of this Convent were, as I remember, Forty
in all. We found them ſeemingly a very good naturid,
and induſtrious, but certainly, a very ignorant People.
For I found upon enquiry, they could not give any man-
ner of Rationale of their own Divine Service. And to
Mew their extream fimplicity, I cannot omit a Comple-
ment made to the Conſul by the chief of them, viz. that
he was as glad to ſee him, as if he had beheld the Meßiab
himſelf coming in perſon to make a viſit to him.
Nor is this Ignorance to be much wondered at; for
wliat Intervals of time they have between their hours of
Devotion, they are forced to ſpend, not in Study, but in
managing of their Flocks, cultivating their Land, prun-
ing their Vineyards, and other labours of Husbandry,
which they accompliſh with their own hands. This toil
they are obliged to undergo, not only to provide for
their own ſuſtenance, but alſo that they may be able to
ſatisfy the unreaſonable Exactions, which the greedy
Turks, upon every pretence chey can invent, are ready
ine Sergirean People
to


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 29
to impoſe upon them. But that it may be the better
gueſs'd what ſort of Men theſe Greek Monks are, I will
add this farther Indication, viz. that the ſame Perſon,
whom we ſaw officiating at the Altar, in his embroider'd
Sacerdotal Robe, brought us the next day, on his own
back, a Kid, and a Goat's Skin of Wine, as a Preſent
from the Convent.
Saturday, Mar. 13.
This Morning we went again to wait upon Oſt an Baſa
by his own appointment; and were entertain'd, as before,
with great Courteſy. For you muſt know that the Turks
are not ſo ignorant of Civility, and the Arts of endear-
ment, but that they can practiſe them with as much
Exactneſs, as any other Nation, whenever they have a
mind to ſhew themſelves obliging. For the better appre-
hending of which, it may not be improper, nor unplea-
fant here to deſcribe the Ceremonies of a Turkiſh viſit,
as far as they have ever fallen under my obſervation, ei-
ther upon this, or any other occaſions
When you would make a viſit to a Perſon of Quality
here, you muſt ſend one before with a Preſent to belpeak
your admiſſion, and to know at what hour your coming
may be moſt ſeaſonable. Being come to the Houſe, the
Servants receive you at the outermoſt Gate, and conduct
you toward their Lord or Maſter's Apartment; other
Servants (I ſuppoſe of better Rank) meeting you in the :
way, at their ſeveral Stations, as you draw nearer to the
Perſon you viſit. Coming into his Room, you find him
prepar'd to receive you, either ſtanding at the edge of the
Duan, or elſe lying down at one corner of it, according
as he thinks it proper to maintain a greater or leſs Diſtin-
ction. Theſe Duans are a ſort of low Stages, ſeated in
the pleaſanteſt part of the Room, elevated about ſixteen
or eighteen inches or more above the floor. They are
ſpread with Carpets, and furniſhed all round with Bolſters
for leaning upon. Upon theſe the Turks eat, ſleep, ſmoak,
receive viſits, ſay their prayers, &r. Their whole delight


30 A Journey from Aleppo to feru falem.
is in lolling upon them, and in furniſhing them richly out
is their greateſt Luxury.
Being come to the ſide of the Duan, you ſip off your
Shoes, and ſtepping up take your place; which you muſt
do firſt at ſome diſtance, and upon your knees, laying
your hands very formally before you. Thus you muſt re-
main, till the Man of Quality invites you to draw nearer,
and to put your ſelf in an eaſier poſture, leaning upon the
Bolſter. Being thus fix'd, he diſcourſes with you as the
Occaſion offers; the Servants ſtanding round all the while
in a great number, and with the profoundeſt reſpect, fi-
lence, and order imaginable. When you have talked over
your Buſineſs or the Complements or whatever other Con.
cern brought you thither, he makes a Sign to have things
fery'd in for the Entertainment; which is generally a little
Sweetmeat, a diſh of Sherber, and another of Coffee: All
which are immediately brought in by the Servants, and
tender'd to all the Gueſts in order, with the greateſt Care
and Awfulneſs imaginable. And they have reaſon to look
well to it; for mould any Servant make but the leait Slip
or Miſtake, either in delivering or receiving his Diſh, it
might coſt him fifty, perhaps one hundred, Drubs on his
bare feet, to attone for his Crime. At laſt comes the finiſh-
ing part of your Entertainment, which is perfuming the
Beards of the Company; a Ceremony, which is perform'd
in this manner. They have for this purpoſe a ſmall Sil-
ver Chaffing-diſh, cover'd with a lid full of holes, and
fixed upon a handſone Plate. In this they put ſome freſh
Coals, and upon them a piece of Lignum Aloes, and then
Mutting it up the ſmoak immediately aſcends with a grate-
ful Odour thro' che holes of the Cover. This ſmoak is
held under every ones Chin, and offer'd, as it were, a Sa-
crifice to his Beard. The briſtly Idol foon perceives the
reverence done to it, and ſo greedily takes in, and incor-
porates the gummy ſteam, that it retains the favour of it,
and may ferve for a Noſegay a good while after.
This Ceremony may perhaps ſeem ridiculous at firſt
hearing: But it paſſes among the Turks for an high Gra-
tification.


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 31
ou may or after this to go aw
cification. And I will ſay this in its vindication, that its
deſign is very wiſe and uſeful. For it is underſtood to give
a civil diſmiſſion to the Viſitants; intimating to them,
that the Maſter of the Houſe has Buſineſs to do, or ſome
other Avocation, that permits them to go away aſſoon as
they pleaſe, and the ſooner after this Ceremony the better.
By this means you may, at any time, without offence, de-
liver your ſelf from being detain'd from your Affairs by
tedious and unſeaſonable Viſits; and from being con-
ſtrain'd to uſe that piece of Hypocriſy, ſo common in the
World, of preſſing thoſe to ſtay longer with you, whom
perhaps in your heart you with a great way off, for having
troubled you ſo long already. But of this enough.
Having diſcharged our viſit to Oſtan Baffa, we rid out
after Dinner to view the Marine. It is about half an hour
diſtant from the City. The Port is an open Sea, rather
than an enclos'd Harbour: However it is in part defended
from the force of the Waves, by two ſmall Iſlands about
two leagues out from the Shore; One of which is callid
the Bird, the other the Coney-Ifand, being ſo named from
the Creatures wbich they ſeverally produce. For its fecu-
rity from Pirates, it has ſeveral Caſtles, or rather ſquare
Towers, built all-along upon the Shore at convenient di-
ſtances. They are (I think fix in number, but at pre-
fent void of all manner of force, both of Men and Am-
munition.
In the fields near the Shore, appear'd many heaps of
Ruins, and Pillars of Granite, and ſeveral other Indica-
tions, that here muſt have been anciently ſome conſi-
derable Buildings this way. Which agrees very well with
what Caſaubon, in his Notes upon Strabo (p. 213.) quotes
out of Diodorus, viz. that the place called Tripoli, was an-
ciently a Cluſter of three Cities ſtanding at a furlong's
diſtance from each other; of which the firſt was a Seat
of the Aradii, the ſecond of the Sidonians, the third of
the Tyrians. And from hence it is probable, that Tripoli
was a Name given at firſt to three diſtinct, but adjacent
places, and not to one City; built (as is uſually faid) by
the


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 33
ſteps, unleſs you will allow for ſuch, fome Sepulchers
which we ſaw cut in the Rocks, about one hour and a
half before we arrived at the Promontory.
Tueſday, Mar. 16.
We were no ſooner in motion this Morning, but we
were engaged in the difficult work of croſſing over the
foremention'd Cape. The Paſs over it lies about a mile
up from the Sea. We found it very ſteep and rugged ;
but in an hour or thereabout maſter'd it, and arrived in
a narrow Valley on the other ſide, which brought the Sea
open to us again. Near the entrance of this Valley ſtands
a ſmall Fort, erected upon a Rock perpendicular on all
ſides, the Walls of the Buildings being juſt adequate to
the ſides of the Rock, and ſeeming almoſt of one con-
tinued piece with them. This Caſtle is called Temſeida,
and commands the paſſage into the Valley.
In about half an hour from this place, we came even
with Patrone; a place eſteem'd to be the ancient Botrus.
It is ſituate cloſe by the Sea, and our Road lying ſome-
what higher up in the Land, we diverted a little out of
the way to ſee it. We found in it ſome remains of an old
Church and a Monaſtery : But theſe are now perfectly
ruin'd and deſolate; as is likewiſe the whole City. Nor
is there any thing left in it, to teſtify it has been a place
of any great conſideration.
In three hours more we came to Gibyle, callid by the
Greeks Byblus, a place once famous for the Birth and
Temple of Adonis. It is pleaſantly Gituated by the Sea
fide. At preſent it contains but a little extent of Ground,
but yet more than enough for the ſmall number of its
Inhabitants. It is compafled with a dry Ditch, and
a Wall, with ſquare Towers in it at about every forty
yards diſtance. On its South ſide, it has an old Caſtle;
within it, is a Church, exactly of the ſame figure with
that at Tortoſa, only not ſo entire as that. Beſides this,
it has nothing remarkable, tho' anciently it was a place
of no mean extent, as well as beauty; as may appear
E
from
the Sea, and on the ancie
Igher up in


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 35
bid Stone Bridge Tripoli and Siafeep Mounta
the Feaſt of Adonis, is of a bloody colour; which the
Heathens looked upon as proceeding from a kind of Sym-
pathy in the River, for the Death of Adonis, who was
killed by a wild Boar in the Mountains, out of which this
Stream riſes. Something like this we ſaw actually come
to paſs; for the Water was ſtain'd to a ſurpriſing red-
neſs; and, as we obſerv'd in Travelling, had diſcolour'd
the Sea a great way into a reddiſh hưe, occaſion d doubt-
leſs by a ſort of Minium, or red Earth, waſhed into the
River by the violence of the Rain, and not by any ſtain
from Adonis's Blood.
In an hour and a quarter from this River we paſſed over
the foot of the Mountain Climax, where, having gone
thro'a very rugged and uneven Paſs, we came into a large
Bay called Funia. At the firſt entrance into the Bay, is an
old Stone Bridge, which appoints the limits between the
two Baſſalicks of Tripoli and Sidon. Ac the bottom of the
Bay are exceeding high and ſteep Mountains, between
which and the Sea, the Road lies. Theſe are the Moun-
tains of Caſtravan, chiefly inhabited by Maronites, famous
for a growth of excellent Wine. The Maronite Biſhop of
Aleppo has here his reſidence in a Convent, of wbich he is
the Guardian. We ſaw many other ſmall Convents on
the top of theſe Mountains. One of which call's Oozier
was, as we were here told, in the hands of ten or twelve
Latin Fryars. Toward the further ſide of the Bay, we
came to a ſquare Tower or Caſtle, of which kind 'there
are many all along upon the Coaſt for ſeveral days Jour-
ney from this place: They are ſaid to have been built by
the Empreſs Helena, for the protection of the Country
from Pirates. At this Tower is to be paid a fourth * Ca-
phar. It is receiv'd by Maronites; a pack of Rogues more
exacting and inſolent in their office, than the very Turks
themſelves. A little beyond this place, we came to a
Road cut thro' the Rocks, which brought us out of the
Bay, having been one hour and a quarter in compaſſing it.
In an hour more ſpent upon a very rugged way, cloſe by
.: Half per Franck, quarter per Servant.
E 2
Aleppo has here hWe ſaw many oth of which call
the Guardianeſe Mountaid, in the baslide of theind there
the top we were noward the cattle, of w
· the


A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem.' 37
.
IMP: CAES: M: AURELIUS
ANTONINUS, PIUS, FELIX, AUGUSTUS
PARTH: MAX: BRIT: GERM: MAXIMUS
PONTIFEX MAXIMUS
MONTIBUS IMMINENTIBUS
LYCO FLUMINI CA E SIS VIAM DILATAVIT
PER---- ( purpoſely eraſed) ----
ANTONINI ANAM SUAM
A little higher up in the way are inſcrib'd theſe words,
INVICTE IMP: ANTONINE P: FELIX AU 6:
MULTIS ANNIS IMPERA!
In paſſing this way, we obſery'd, in the ſides of the Rock
above us, ſeveral Tables of figures carv'd; which ſeem'd
to promiſe ſomething of Antiquity. To be ſatisfied of
which, ſome of us clamber'd up to the place, and found
there ſome ſigns as if the old way had gone in that Region,
before Antoninus cut the other more convenient paſſage a
litele lower. In ſeveral places hereabout, we ſaw ſtrange
anrique figures of Men, carv'd in the natural Rock, in
Mezzo Relievo, and in bigneſs equal
to the life. Cloſe by each figure was
a large Table plain'd in the ſide of
the Rock, and border'd round with
Mouldings. Both the Effigies and the
Tables appear'd to have been ancient-
ly inſcrib'd all over: But the chara-
ders are now ſo defac'd, that nothing
but the footſteps of them were viſible.
Only there was one of the figures
that had both its Lineaments and its
Inſcriptions entire. .
It was our unhappineſs to have at this place a very
violent ſtorm of Thunder and Rain, which made our
Company too much in haſte to make any long ſtay here.
By which misfortune I was prevented to my great Regret,
from copying the Inſcription, and making ſuch an exact
ſcrutiny


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 39
from its overflowings, and all other noxious and unwhola
fome effects of that Element. It has the benefit of good
freſh Springs flowing down to it from the adjacent Hills,
and diſpenſed all over the City, in convenient, and not
unhandſome Fountains. But beſides theſe advantages of
its ſituation, it has at preſent nothing elſe to boaſt of.
The Emir Faccardine has his chief reſidence in this
place. He was in the Reign of Sultan Morat, the fourth
Emir, or Prince of the Druſes; a people ſuppos'd to have
deſcended from ſome diſpers'd remainders of thoſe Chrie,..
ftian Armies, that engag'd in the Cruſades, for the re-
covery of the Holy-Land: Who afterwards, being totally
routed, and deſpairing of a return to their native Country
again, betook themſelves to the Mountains hereabout; in
which their deſcendants have continued ever ſince. Face.
cardine being (as I ſaid) Prince of theſe people, was not
contented to be penn'd up in the Mountains; but by his
power and artifice, enlarged his Dominions down into the
plain all along the Sea Coaſt, as far as from this place to
Acra. At laſt the Grand Seignior grown jealous of ſuch
a growing power, drove the wild Beaſt back again to the
Mountains, from whence he had broke looſe; and there
his poſterity retain their Principality to this day.
We went to view the Palace of this Prince, which ſtands
on the North Eaſt part of the City. At the entrance of
. it is a Marble Fountain, of greater beauty than is uſual-
ly ſeen in Turkey. The Palace within conſiſts of ſeveral
Courts, all now run much to ruin; or rather perhaps
never finiſh’d. The Stables, Yards for Horſes, Dens for
Lyons and other Salvage Creatures, Gardens, &c. are ſuch
as would not be unworthy of the Quality of a Prince in
Chriſtendom, were they wrought up to that perfection
of which they are capable, and to which they ſeem to
have been deſign'd by their firſt Contriver.
But the beſt light that this place affords, and the wor-
thieſt to be remember'd, is the Orange Garden. It contains
a large Quadrangular plat of ground, divided into ſixteen
leffer ſquares, four in a row, with walks between them.
The


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 41
In another Garden we ſaw ſeveral Pedeſtals for Sta-
tues; from whence it may be inferr'd, that this Emir was
no very zealous Mahometan. At one corner of the ſame
Garden ſtood a Tower of about ſixty foot high; deſign'd
to have been carried to a much greater elevation for a
Watch-Tower, and for that end built with an extraordi-
nary ſtrength, its walls being twelve foot thick. From
this Tower we had a view of the whole City : Amongſt
other Proſpects, it yielded us the light of a large Chriſtian
Church, laid to have been at firſt conſecrated to St John
the Evangeliſt. But, it being now uſurp'd by the Turks for
their chief Moſque, we could not be permitted to ſee it,
otherwiſe than at this diſtance. Another Church there is
in the Town, which ſeems to be ancient; but being a very
mean Fabrick, is ſuffer'd to remain ſtill in the hands of
the Greeks. We found it adorn'd with abundance of old
Pictures; Amongſt the reſt, I ſaw one with this little In-
ſcription, Kéoplos negros Apneembocoms Bapéto: And juſt by it
was the figure of Neſtorius, who commonly makes one
amongſt the Saints painted in the Greek Churches; tho'
they do not now profeſs, nor, I believe, ſo much as know
his Hereſy. But that which appeard moſt obſervable
was a very odd figure of a Saint, drawn at full length,
with a large Beard reaching down to his Feet. The Cu-
rate gave us to underſtand, that this was St Nicephorus;
and perceiving that his Beard was the chief object of
our admiration, he gratified us with the following relaa
tion concerning him, viz. That he was a Perſon of the
moſt Eminent Virtues in his time; But his great Miſe
fortune was, that the Endowments of his Mind were not
ſet off with the outward Ornament of a Beard : Upon
occaſion of which defect, he fell into a deep Melancholy.
The Devil taking the advantage of this Prieſt, promiſed
to give him that Boon which Nature had deny'd, in caſe
he would comply with his ſuggeſtions. The Beardleſs
Saint, tho' he was very deſirous' of the reward propos’d,
yet he would not purchaſe it at that rate neither : But
rejected the previous Bribe with indignation, declaring
relo,


42 A Journey from Aleppo to ferufalem.
the pluck, he found ih bp). Behold for he had to wita
refolutely, that he had rather for ever deſpair of his wiſh
than obtain it upon ſuch terms. And at the ſame time,
taking in his hand the downy tuft upon his Chin, to wito
nefs the ſtability of his reſolution (for he had it ſeems
Beard enough to fwear by) Behold) as a reward for his
conftancy, he found the hair immediately ſtretch, with
the pluck that he gave it. Whereupon finding it in ſo
good a humour, he follow'd the happy Omen: And as
young Heirs, that have been niggardly bred, generally turn
Prodigals when they come to their Eſtates; ſo he never
defited from pulling his Beard, till he had wiredrawn
it down to his feet. But enough both of the beard and
the ſtory. At the Eaſt end of Beroot are to be ſeen ſeven
or eight beautiful Pillars of Granite, each --- foot long,
and three in diameter. And over another Gate, not far
diftant, we found in a piece of Marble, this following
Infcription; Της σε φeoσίοντος ανδρός εννοίας αλεί σαφής έλεγχο
å webconfes gekreg. 888 weetúpws ô capíxeis, il pesi N'fri mad gS TO
μιχρόν γίνεται πλήρης χάeις. ΤΗΣ ΤΟΥ ΠΡΟΣΙΟΝΤΟΣ
ΑΝΔΡΟΣ ΕΝΝΟΙΑΣ. Such as thefe were the Capi-
tals. It was probably at firſt an Altar-Inſcription, re-
lating to the Offertory in the Holy Communion: For its
ſenſe ſeems to look that way; and 'tis well known, that
the Comers to the Bleſſed Sacrament, were call’d by the
Ancients, by the peculiar Name of oi megoloymes, as Vale-
fous proves out of St Chryſoſtom. Valeſ. Not. in Euſeb. Eccl.
Hift. Lib. 7. Cap. 9.
On the South fide, the Town-wall is ſtill entire, but
built out of the ruins of the old City, as appears by pieces
of Pillars and Marble, which help to build it. In one
· piece of Marble Table we ſaw theſe remaining Letters
of a Larin Inſcription;
i
---- V G. ETIA ----
.--. XI CUM....
----VS PHOEBU S -..
All the reſt being purpoſely eraſed...
A little


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 43
1.
· A little without this Wall we ſaw many Granite Pillars,
and remnants of Moſaick Floors; and in an heap of rubo
biſh, ſeveral pieces of poliſh'd Marble, fragments of Sra.
tues, and other poor Relicks of this City's ancient Magni-
ficence. On the Sea ſide is an old ruin'd Caſtle, and
ſome remains of a ſmall Mole. ..
Friday, Mar. 19. .
Leaving Beroot, 'we came in one third of an hour to
a large Plain extending from the Sea to the Mountains.
At the beginning of the Plain is a Grove of Pine Trees
of Faccardine's Plantation. We gueſs'd it to be more
than half a Mile croſs; and ſo plealant and inviting was
its ſhade, that it was not without ſome regret that we
pals'd it by. Continuing in this Plain, we ſaw at a di-
ſtance, on our left hand, a ſmall Village called Suckfoat.
It belongs to the Druſes, who poſſeſs at this day a long
tract of Mountains, as far as from Caſtravan to Carmel.
Their preſent Prince is Achmet, Grandſon to Faccardine;
an old Man, and one who keeps up the Cuſtom of his An-
ceſtors, of turning day into night: An hereditary pra-
&ice in his Family, proceeding from a traditional per-
ſwalion amongſt them, that Princes can never ſleep le-
curely but by day, when Men's actions and deſigns are
beſt obſerv'd by their Guards, and if need be, moſt eaſily
prevented; but that in the night it concerns them to be
always vigilant, leſt the darkneſs, aided by their ſleeping,
hould give Traitors both opportunity and encourage-
ment to aſſault their Perſons, and by a Dagger or a Piſtol,
to make them continue their ſleep longer than they in-
tended when they lay down.
Two hours from Faccardine's Grove brought us to the
fifth Caphar, and another little hour to the River Damer
or Tamyras; the former being its Modern, the latter its
Ancient Name. It is a River apt to ſwell much upon
fuddain Rains, in which caſe, precipitating its ſelf from
the Mountains with great rapidity, it has been faral to
many a Paſſenger; amongſt the reſt, one Monſieur Spon,
Nephew
F 2


44 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
Nephew to Dr Spon, coming from Jeruſalem, about four
years ago, in company with ſome Engliſh Gentlemen,
was, in paſſing this Stream, hurry'd down by it, and pe-
riſhed in the Sea, which lies about a furlong lower than
the Paſſage.
We had the good fortune to find the River in a better
temper; its Waters being now afſwaged ſince the late
Rains. However the Country Fellows were ready here,
according to their Trade, to have aſſiſted us in our pal-
ſing over. In order to which, they had very officiouſly
ſtripp'd themſelves naked againſt our coming: And to the
end that they might oblige us to make uſe of their help,
for which they will be well paid, they brought us to a
place where the Water was deepeſt, pretending there was
no other Paſſage beſides that; which Cheat we ſaw them
adually impole upon ſome other Travellers, who came
not long after us. But we had been advis'd of a place a
little higher in the River, where the Stream was broader
and ſhallower, and there we eaſily paſs'd without their
aſſiſtance. Juſt by this place are the ruins of a Stone-
bridge; of which one might gueſs by the firmneſs of its
remains, that it might have been ſtill entire, had not theſe
Villains broke it down, in order to their making advan-
tages of Paſſengers; either conducting them over for
good pay, or elſe, if they have opportunity, drowning
them for their ſpoils.
On the other ſide of the River, the Mountains ap-
proach cloſer to the Sea, leaving only a narrow rocky
way between. From Damer, in two hours we came to
another River, of no inconſiderable figure, but not once
mention'd by any Geographer that I know of. It is with-
in one hour of Sidon. Its Channel is deep, contains a
good Stream, and has a large Stone-bridge over it. Speak-
ing of this River to the Reverend Father Stephano, Maro-
nite Patriarch at Canobine, he told me it was call'd Awle,
and had its Fountain near Berook, a Village in Mount
Libanus.


· A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 48
At this River we were met by ſeveral of the French
Merchants from Sidon; they having a Factory there, the
moſt conſiderable of all theirs in the Levant. Being ar-
riv'd at Sidon, we pitch'd our Tents by a Ciſtern without
the City; but were our ſelves conducted by the French
Gentlemen to the place of their habitacion, which is a
large Kane cloſe by the Sea, where the Conſul and all
the Nation are quarter'd together. Before the front of
this Kane is an old Mole, running into the Sea with a righe
Angle; it was of no great capacity at beſt, but now is
render'd perfectly uſeleſs, having been purpoſely fillid
up with rubbiſh and carth by Faccardine, to prevent the
Turkiſh Gallies from making their unwelcome viſits to
this place. The Mole being thus deſtroy'd, all Ships, that
take in their Burthen here, are forc'd to ride at Anchor
under the ſhelter of a ſmall ridge of Rocks, about a Mile
diſtant from the ſhore on the North ſide of the City.
Sidon is ſtockt well enough with Inhabitants, but is very
much ſhrunk from its ancient extent, and more from its
ſplendour; As appears from a great many beautiful Pil-
lars, that lie ſcatter'd up and down the Gardens without
the preſent Walls. Whatever Antiquities may at any time
have been hereabout, they are now all perfectly obſcur'd
and buried by the Turkiſh Buildings. Upon the South
ſide of the City, on a Hill ſtands an old Caſtle, ſaid to
have been the work of Lewis the ninth of France, ſur-
named the Saint ; and not far from the Caſtle is an old
unfiniſh'd Palace of Faccardine's, ſerving however the Baſſa
for his Seraglio: Neither of them worth mentioning,
had the City afforded us any thing elſe more remarkable.
Near about Sidon begin the precincts of the Holy Land,
and of that part of it in particular which was allotted to
Afner. The borders of which Tribe extended from Care
mel as far as great Zidon, as appears from Fof. 19.26,28.
But the People upon the Sea Coaſts were never actually
maſter'd by the Iſraelites; being left by the juft Judgment
of God to be thorns in their Gides, for a reaſon that may
be ſeen Jud. 2. 1, 2, 3, &c.
The


46 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
The Perſon who is the French Conſul at Sidon, has
alſo the Title of Conſul of Jeruſalem; and is obliged by
his Maſter, the French King, to make a viſit to the Holy
City every Eaſter, under pretence of preſerving the San-
&uary there from the violations, and the Fryars who
have the cuſtody of it, from the exactions of the Turks.
But the Friars think themſelves much ſafer without this
protection. We were deſirous to join with Monſieur
ľ Empereur, the preſent Conſul, in his this years Pil-
grimage; and accordingly had ſent him a Letter from
Aleppo, on purpoſe to beſpeak that favour; hoping, by
his prote&ion, to paſs more ſecurely from the abuſes of
the Arabs and Turks, who are no where ſo inſolent, as
in Paleſtine, and about feruſalem. We had his promiſe
to ſtay for us; but the remoras and diſappointments we
met with in the Road, had put us ſo backward in our
Journey, that fearing to be too late at Jeruſalem, he ſet
out from Sidon the day before our arrival there: Leaving
us however ſome hopes, that if we made the beſt of our
way, we might come up with him at Acra, where he pro-
mis'd to expect our coming to the utmoſt moment.
Saturday, Mar. 20..
Being deſirous therefore not to loſe the convenience
of his Company, we ſet out early the next morning from
Sidon; and travelling in a very fruitful Plain, came in
half an hour to a place where we found a large Pillar of
Granite, lying croſs the high way, and ſunk a good part
under ground. Obſerving ſome letters upon it, we took
the pains to dig away the Earth, by which means we re-
cover'd this fragment of an Inſcription.
the pa ground. cools the miere we foutil Plain," ung from
IMPE-


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
47
IMPERATORES,
CAESARES,
L SEPTIMUS SE-
VERUS, PIUS PER-
TIN AX, AUG: ARA-
BICUS ADIABENICUS,
PARTHICUS, MAXI- ,
MUS, TRIBUNICIA
POTES: VI. IMP: XI. cos []
PRO AcOS APNP
ET M AUREL: ANTONI-
NUS AUG: FILIUS A EJUS
--...--ET-.--. ARIA
-o...... EN-.•-DIUM O RV
FVM-v....
-....--IC PR: PRAET :
----PROVINC A SYRIA E
[ET PHAE] NICA RENOV AV ERUNT
(la
Some Gentlemen of our Nation, in their journey to fea
Tuſalem this laſt Eaſter, An. 1699. found another Pillar,
at about midway between that we ſaw, and Sidon, of the
fame make and uſe; from which they took the foreſaid
Inſcription more perfectly. As far as filius ejus there is
no variation, and after that it goes on thus,
VIAS ET MILLIARIA
FR--:0 OVENIDIVM RV
FVM O LEG Ⓡ AUGG
L-••-PR PRAESIDEM
PROVINC SYRIAE PHOE
NICO RENOVAVERUNT
By which we may obſerve the exactneſs of the Romans
in meaſuring out their Roads, and marking down upon
every Pillar the number of Miles, as I. II. III. &c.
A little


Palem.
e being an old
up to the top
of the Iſland,
Facent ſhore.
the Iſthmus
ther two; i
-ll over with
ns of its 03-
was by Ale
e Illand of
fa circular
of Ground.
ch ancient-
gin of the
Baps; one
h. Theſe
each by a
tly out, on
efe ridges,
e work of
Sation of
and, and
Je. From
Tring the
hich we
paffing
t ſelf to
quarters
idon bie
d Solo-
bere-
Sart of
f me
mple.
They


Pag:51]
They are
date, than
they could
be conje&t.
Cauſe che
to Tyre, is
xander, in
to the Co
imagin'de
be ſure th
ſtands up
this day,
Sea, che
The fic
in diame
on the se
faid tot
line con
terial tha
with ſo
be all or
have a
ſcendin
North,
All chii
low, O
inſomy
tremit
Body
Founta
Brook
yet it
wasi
about
nel a
the T
ripis


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. ŠI
They are doubtleſs very ancient, but yet of a much later
date, than what this tradition aſcribes to them. That
they could not be built till ſince Alexander's time, may
be conje&ur'd from this, amongſt other arguments; be-
cauſe the Aqueduct, which conveys the Water from hence
to Tyre, is carried over the Neck of Land, by which Ale-
xander, in his famous Siege of this place, join'd the City
to the Continent. And as the Ciſterns cannot well be
imagin'd to be antienter than the Aqueduct; ſo one may
be ſure the Aqueduct cannot be older than the ground it
ſtands upon. Of theſe Ciſterns there are three entire at
this day, one about a furlong and a half diſtant from the
Sea, the other two a little farther up.
· The former is of an Octogonal figure, twenty two yards
in diameter. It is elevated above the ground nine yards
on the South Gide, and ſix on the North; and within, is
ſaid to be of an unfathomable deepneſs, but ten yards of
line confuced that opinion. Its Wåll is of no better a ma-
terial than Gravel and ſmall Pebbles; but conſolidated
with ſo ſtrong and tenacious a cement, that it ſeems to
be all one entire veſſel of Rock. Upon the brink of it you
have a walk round, eight foot broad. From which, de-
ſcending by one ſtep on the South ſide, and by two on the
North, you have another walk twenty one foot broad.
All this Structure, tho' ſo broad at top, is yet made hol-
low, ſo that the Water comes in underneath the walks ;
inſomuch that I could not with a long rod reach the ex-
tremity of the cavity. The whole Veſſel contains a vaſt
Body of excellent Water; and is ſo well ſupply'd from its
Fountain, that tho' there iſſues from it a ſtream like a
Brook, driving four Mills between this place and the Sea,
yet it is always brim full. On the Eaſt ſide of this Ciſtern
was the ancient outlet of the Water,by an Aqueduct raiſed
about fix yards from the ground, and containing a Chan-
nel one yard wide. But this is now ſtopp'd up, and dry;
the Turks having broke an outlet on the other ſide, de-
riving thence a ſtream for grinding their Corn.
The Aquedua (now dry) is carried Eaſtward about one
hundred
G
2


A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 53
being the ruins of the Caſtle Scandalium ; taking its Name
from its Founder, the fame Alexander, whom the Turks
call Scander. The ruin is one hundred and twenty paces
ſquare, having a dry ditch encompaſſing it; and from un-
der it, on the Gide next the Sea, there iſſues out a Foun-
tain of very fair Water. In an hour from hence you come
to the ſixth Caphar, called Nachera. And in another hour
to the Plain of Acra, over a very deep and rugged Moun-
tain, ſuppos'd to be part of Mount-Saron. All the way
from the white Promontory to this Plain is exceeding
rocky; but here the pleaſantneſs of the Road makes you
amends for the former labour.
The Plain of Acra extends it ſelf in length from Mount.
Saron as far as Carmel, which is at leaſt ſix good hours ;
and in breadth, between the Sea and the Mountains, it is:
in moſt places two hours over. It enjoys good ſtreams of
Water at convenient diſtances, and every thing elſe that
might render it both pleaſant and fruitful. But this de-
licious Plain is now almoſt deſolate ; being ſuffer'd, for
want of culture, to run ap to rank weeds, which were, at
the time when we paſs'd it, as high as our Horſes backs.
Having travelled about one hour' in the Plain of Acra,
we paſſed by an old Town call'd Zib, ſicuate on an aſcent
cloſe by the Sea ſide. This may probably be the old Achzib
mention'd yoh. 19. 29. and jud. 1. 31. called afterwards
Ecdippa: For St Jerome places Achzib nine Miles diſtant
from Ptolemais towards Tyre, to which account we found
the ſituation of Zib exa&ly agreeing. This is one of the
places, out of which the Apurites could not expel the Cao
naanitiſh Natives. Two hours farther we came to a Foun-
tain of very good Water, call’d by the French Merchants
at Acra, the Fountain of the Bleſed Virgin. In one hour
more, we arriv'd at Agra. Our whole Stage from Roſe-
layn hither was about eight hours and a half.
Acra had anciently the Name of Accho, and is another
of the places, out of which the Children of Iſrael could
not drive the primitive Inhabitants, Fudg. 1.3i. Being in
after times enlarged by Ptolemy the firſt, it was call'd by
him
want of chain is now almolant and fruitful thing elſe tha
ais fub exaaly agrees could not expeo a Foun-
olives. Two hours faby the French Mene hour


54 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
take a manner, as if in the Turks, anters, it was by
him, from his own Name, Ptolemais. But now ſince it hath
been in the poſſeſſion of the Turks, it has (according to
the example of many other cities in Turky) caſt of its
Greek, and * recover'd ſome ſemblance of its old Hebrew
Name again; being called Acca, or Acra.
This City was for a long time the Theater of Conten-
tion between the Chriſtians and Infidels; till at laſt, after
having divers times changed its Maſters, it was by a long
Siege finally taken by the Turks, and ruin'd by them in
ſuch a manner, as if they had thought, they could never
take a full revenge upon it for the blood it had coſt chem,
or ſufficiently prevent ſuch Naughters for the future. As
to its ſituation, it enjoys all poſſible advantages both of
Sea and Land. On its North and Eaſt fides it is com-
paſs'd with a ſpacious and fertile Plain; on the Welt it is
waſhed by the Mediterranean Sea, and on the South by a
large Bay, extending from the City as far as Mount Carmel.
But notwithſtanding all theſe advantages, it has never
been able to recover it ſelf, ſince its laſt fatal overthrow.
For beſides a large Kane, in which the French Factors have
taken up their Quarters, and a Moſque, and a few poor
Cottages, you ſee nothing here but a vaſt and ſpacious ruin.
It is ſuch a ruin however, as ſufficiently demonſtrates the
ſtrength of the place in former times. It appears to have
been encompaſs’d, on the Land ſide, by a double Wall de-
fended with Towers at ſmall diſtances: And without the
Walls are Ditches, Ramparts, and a kind of Baſtions faced
with hewn ſtone. In the Fields without theſe works we
faw, ſcatter'd up and down upon the ground, ſeveral large
balls of Stone, of at leaſt thirteen or fourteen inches dia-
meter; which were part of the Ammunition uſed in Bat-
tering the City, Guns being then unknown. Within the
Walls there ſtill appear ſeveral ruins, which ſeem to di-
ſtinguiſh themſelves from the general heap, by ſome marks
of a greater ſtrength and magnificence. As firit, thoſe of the
• Ammian. Marcell. ſays, the Greek and Roman Names of places never took
amongſt the Natives of this Councry: which is the reaſon that moſt places re-
tain their firſt Oriental Names at this day, Lib. 14. Hiß. non longe ab initio.
Cathe.


MWY
F
ILA
Laia
24
Mlount Carmel Pag. 54.
The great monastery of the Carmelites.2.Where Elias sacri
ficd; The river Kishon 4 The haven of S. Iohn d'Acre.5.
The town of S'Iohn d'Acra.6. The river Belus.


wanne


56 A Journey from Aleppo to Ferufalem.
But that which pleaſed us moſt at 'Acra, was to find
the French Conſul Monſieur ? Empereur there; who had
been ſo generous, as to make a Halt of two days, in ex-
pectation of our arrival. But he had ſtaid to the utmoſt
extent of his time, and therefore reſolv'd to ſet forward
again the next Morning. Our greateſt difficulty was to
determine, which Road to cake, whether that upon the
Coaft by Cæfarea and Foppa; or that by Nazareth, or a
middle way between both the other, over the Plain of
Efdraelon.
The cauſe of this uncertainty was, the Embroilments
and Factions that were then amongſt the Arabs; which
made us deſirous to keep as far as poſſible out of their
way. 'Tis the policy of the Turks, always to low diviſions
amongſt theſe wild people, by ſetting up ſeveral heads
over their Tribes, often depoſing the old, and placing
new ones in their ſtead: By which Art they create con-
trary Intereſts and Parties amongſt them, preventing them
from ever uniring under any one Prince; which if they
ſhould have the ſenſe to do, (being ſo numerous and al-
moſt the ſole Inhabitants thereabouts) they might ſhake
off the Turkiſh yoak, and make themſelves ſupream Lords
of the Country.
But however uſeful theſe diſcords may be to the Turks
in this refpe&t, yet a ſtranger is ſure to ſuffer by them;
being made a prey to each Party, according as he hap-
pens to come in their way: Avoiding which abuſes, we
reſolv'd to take the middle way, as the moſt ſecure at
this time.
Monday, Mar. 22.
According to which purpoſe, we ſet out early the next
Morning from Acra, having with us a band of Turkiſh
Souldiers for our ſecurer Convoy. Our Road lay, for about
half an hour, along by the ſide of the Bay of Aira; and
then, arriving at the bottom of the Bay, we turn'd South-
ward. Here we paſs'd a ſmall River which we took to
be Belus, famous for its Sand, which is ſaid to be an ex-
cellent
in this made a in their


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 59
ſituate upon a long Mount of an oval figure, having firſt
à fruitful Valley, and then a ring of Hills running round
about it. This great City is now wholly converted into
Gardens; and all the tokens that remain to teſtify that
there has ever been ſuch a place, are only, on the North
ſide, a large ſquare Piazza encompaſs'd with Pillars, and
on the Eaſt, ſome poor remains of a great Church, ſaid to
have been built by the Empreſs Helena, over the place
where St Fohn Bapiiſt was both impriſon'd and beheaded.
In the Body of the Church you go down a Stair-caſe, into :
the very Dungeon, where that holy Blood was ſhed. The
Turks (of whom here are a few poor Families) hold this
Priſon in great Veneration, and over it have erected a
ſmall Moſque; but for a little piece of money they ſuffer
you to go in and ſatisfy your curioſity at plealure.
Leaving Sebafta we paſs'd in half an hour by Sherack,
and in another half hour by Barſeba, two Villages on the
right hand; and then entring into a narrow Valley, lying
Eaft and Weſt, and water'd with a fine Rivulet, we arrived
in one hour at Naploſa. .
Naploſa is the Ancient Sychem, or Sychar, as it is term'd
in the New Teſtament. It ſtands in a narrow Valley
between Mount Gerizim on the South, and Ebal on the
North; being built at the foot of the former: For ſo the
ſituation both of the City and Mountains is laid down
by Jofephus, Antiq. Fud. Lib. s. Cap.9. Gerizim (ſays he).
hangeth over Sychem; and Lib. 4. Cap. ult. Moſes com-
manded to erect an Alcar toward the Eaſt, not far from
Sychem, between Mount Gerizim on the right hand, (that
is to one looking Eaſtward, on the South) and Hebal on
the left (that is on the North:) Which ſo plainly aſſigns
the poſition of theſe two Mountains, that it may be won-
derd, how Geographers ſhould come to differ ſo much
about it; or for what reaſon Adrichomius ſhould place them
both on the ſame ſide of the Valley of Sychem. From
Mount Gerizim it was, that God commanded the Bleſſings
to be pronounced upon the Children of Iſrael, and from
Mount Ebal the Curſes. Deut.11.29. Upon the former, the
H 2
Samaa


A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 61
as one Bat more emay be, ble heat of
religious feſtivals, Deut. 27.4. and not (as the Jews have
corruptly written it) Hebal. We oblerv'd that to be
in ſome meaſure true which be pleaded, concerning the
nature of both Mountains: For thoʻneither of the Moun-
tains has much to boaſt of as to their pleaſantnefs; yet
as one paſſes between them, Gerizim ſeems to diſcover a
ſomewhat more verdant fruitful aſpect than Ebal. - The
reaſon of which may be, becauſe fronting towards the
North, it is Melter'd from the heat of the Sun by its own
Made: Whereas Ebal looking Southward, and receiving
the Sun that comes directly upon it, muft by confequence
be render'd more ſcorched and unfruitful. The Samaritan
Prieſt could not ſay that any of thofe great Stones, which
God directed Foſbua to ſet up, were now to be ſeen in
· Mount Gerizim; which, were they now extant, would
determine the queſtion clearly on his ſide:
I enquir'd of him next, what ſort of Animal he, thought
thoſe Selave might be, which the Children of Iſrael were
ſo long fed with in the Wilderneſs? Num. 1 1. He anſwer'd
they were a ſort of Fowls; and by the deſcription which
he gave of them, I perceiv'd he meant the ſame kind with
our Quails. I asked him what he thought of Locuſts, and
whether the Hiſtory might not be better accounted for,
ſuppoſing them to be the winged Creatures that fell ſo
thick about the Camp of Iſrael? but by his anſwer, it ap-
pear'd, he had never heard of any ſuch Hypotheſis. Then
I demanded of him, what ſort of Plant or Fruit the Du-
daim, or (as we tranſlate it) Mandrakes were, which Leah
gave to Rachel, for the purchaſe of her Husband's em-
braces? He ſaid they were Plants of a large leaf, bearing
a certain ſort of Fruit, in ſhape reſembling an Apple, grow-
ing ripe in Harveſt, but of an ill favour, and not whol-
fome. But the virtue of them was to help Conception,
being laid under the Genial Bed. That the Women were
often wont ſo to apply it, at this day, out of an opinion
of its prolifick virtue. Of theſe Plants I ſaw ſeveral af-
terwards in the way to Jeruſalem; and if they were ſo
common in Meſopotamia as we ſaw them hereabout, one
muſt


62 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
muſt either conclude that theſe could not be the true
Mandrakes (Dudaim,) or elſe it would puzzle a good Cri-
tick to give a reaſon, why Rachel ſhould purchaſe ſuch :
vulgar things at ſo beloved and conteſted a price.
This Prieſt ſhew'd me a Copy of the Samarican Penta-
teuch, but would not be perſwaded to part with it upon
any Confideration. He had likewiſe the firit Volume of
the Engliſh Polyglott, which he ſeem'd to eſteem equally
with his own Manuſcript..
Naploſa is at preſent in a very mean condition, in
compariſon of what it is repreſented to have been an-
ciently. It conſiſts chiefly of two Streets lying parallel,
under Mount Gerizim; but it is full of People, and the
Seat of a Baſa.
Having paid our Caphar here, we ſet forward again in
the Evening, and proceeding in the ſame narrow Valley,
between Gerizim and Ebal (not above a furlong broad)
we ſaw, on our right hand juſt without the City, a ſmall
Moſque, ſaid to have been built over the Sepulcher pur-
chaſed by Jacob of Emmor, the Father of Shechem. Gen.
33. 19. It goes by the Name of Joſeph's Sepulcher, his
bones having been here interr'd after their tranſportation
out of Egypt. Foſh. 24. 32.
At about one third of an hour from Naploſa, we came
to facob's Well; famous not only upon account of its
Author, but much more for that memorable Conference,
which our Bleſſed Saviour here had with the Woman of
Samaria. Fob. 4. If it ſhould be queſtion'd whether this
be the very Well that it is pretended for, or no; ſeeing
it may be ſuſpected to ſtand too remote from Sychar, for
Women to come ſo far to draw Water; it is anſwer'd, thaç
probably the City extended farther this way in former
times than it does now; as may be conjectur'd from
ſome pieces of a very thick Wall, ftill to be ſeen not far
from hence. Over the Well there ſtood formerly a large
Church, erected by that great and devour Patroneſs of
the Holy-Land, the Empreſs Helena; but of this the vo-
facity of time, aſſiſted by the hands of the Turks, has
left


A Journey from Aleppo to Ferufalem. 63
left nothing but a few Foundations remaining. The Well
is cover'd at preſent with an old ſtone Vault, into which
you are let down thro'a very ſtrait hole; and then rea
moving a broad flat ſtone, you diſcover the Mouth of the
Well it ſelf. It is dug in a firm Rock, and contains about
three yards in diameter, and thirty five in depth; five of
which we found full of Water. This confutes a Story,
commonly told to Travellers who do not take the pains
to examine the Well, viz. that it is dry all the Year round,
except on the Anniverſary of that Day on which our
Bleſſed Saviour far upon it; but then bubbles up with
abundance of Water.
At this Well the narrow Valley of Sychem ends; open-
ing it ſelf into a wide Field, which is probably part of
that parcel of ground, given by Jacob to his Son Foſeph,
John 4. s. It is water'd with a freſh Stream, riſing be-
tween it and Sychem; which makes it ſo exceeding ver-
dant and fruitful, that it may well be looked upon as a
ſtanding token of the tender affection of that good Pa-
triarch to the beſt of Sons. Gen. 48. 22.
From Jacob's Well our Road went Southward, along
a very ſpacious and fertile Valley. Having paſs'd by two
Villages on the right hand, one called Howar, the other
Sawee; we arrived in four hours at Kane Leban, and
lodged there. Our whole Stage to day was about eight
hours; our Courſe variable between Eaſt and South.
Kane Leban ſtands on the Eaſt ſide of a delicious Vale,
having a Village of the ſame Name ſtanding oppoſite to it
on the other ſide of the Vale. One of theſe places, either
the Kane or the Village, is ſuppoſed to have been the
Lebonah mention'd Judg. 11. 19. To which both the
Name and Situation ſeem to agree.
Thurſday, Mar. 25.
From Kane Leban our Road lay thro'a more Moun-
tainous and rocky Country; of which we had a Speci-
men as ſoon as we were mounted the next Morning, our
firſt task being to climb a very craggy and difficult Moun-
rain.


A Journey from Aleppo to feruſalem. 05
rocks, mountains and precipices. At ſight of which,
Pilgrims are apt to be much aftoniſhed and baulked in
their expectations, finding that Country in ſuch an in-
hoſpitable condition, concerning whoſe pleaſantneſs and
plenty they had before form'd in their Minds ſuch high
ideas, from the deſcription given of it in the Word of
God: Inſomuch that is almoſt ſtartles their Faith, when
they reflect, how it could be poſſible for a land like
this, to ſupply food for fo prodigious a number of In-
habitants, as are ſaid to have been polled in the twelve
Tribes at one time; the ſum given in by Joab, 2 Sam. 24.
amounting to no leſs than thirteen hundred thouſand
fighting Men, beſides Women and Children. But it is
certain that any Man, who is not a little biaſs'd to In-
fidelity before, may fee, as he paſſes along, arguments :
enough to ſupport his Faith againſt ſuch ſcruples...
For it is obvious for any one to obſerve, that theſe
rocks and hills muſt have been anciently cover'd with
Earth, and cultivated, and made to contribute to the main-
tenance of the Inhabitants, no leſs than if the Country
had been all plaiņ: Nay perhaps much more; foraſmuch
as ſuch a Mountainous and uneven ſurface affords a larger
fpace of ground for cultivation, than this Country would
amount to, if it were all reduced to a perfect level.
. For the husbanding of theſe Mountains, their manner
: was to gather up the Stones, and place them in ſeveral
lines, along the ſides of the Hills, in form of a Wall. By
ſuch borders, they ſupported the mould from tumbling,
or being waſh'd down; and form'd many Beds of excel-
lent Soil, riſing gradually one above another, from the
bottom to the top of the Mountains.
Of this form of culture you ſee evident footſteps, wherem
ever you go in all the Mountains of Paleſtine. Thus the
very rocks were made fruitful. And perhaps there is no
ſpot of ground in this whole Land, that was not former-
ly improv'd, to the production of ſomething or other
miniſtring to the ſuſtenance of human life. For, than the
plain Countries, nothing can be more fruitful, whether
ture you ſee ex of Paleſtine. Here is no
for


86 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
for the produ&ion of Corn or Cattle, and conſequently
of Milk. The Hills, tho' improper for all Cattle, except
Goats, yet being diſpoſed into ſuch Beds as are afore-de-
ſcrib’d, ſero'd very well to bear Corn, Melons, Goards,
Cucumbers, and ſuch like Garden-ſtuff, which makes the
principal food of theſe Countries for ſeveral Months in
the Year. The moſt rocky parts of all, which could not
well be adjuſted in that manner for the production of
Corn, might yet ſerve for the plantation of Vines and
Olive Trees; which delight to extract, the one its fatneſs,
the other its ſprightly juice, chiefly out of ſuch dry and
Ainty places. “And the great Plain joining to the dead
Sea, which, by reaſon of its faltneſs, might be thought
unſerviceable both for Cattle, Corn, Olives and Vines,
had yet its proper uſefulneſs, for the nouriſhment of Bees,
and for the fabrick of Honey; of which Joſephus gives us
his Teſtimony, De Bell.Jud. Lib. 5. Cap.4. And I have rea-
ſon to believe it, becauſe when I was there, I perceiv’d in
many places a ſmell of Honey and Wax, as ſtrong as if one
had been in an Apiary. Why then might not this Coun-
try very well maintain the vaſt number of its Inhabitants,
being in every part ſo productive of either Milk, Corn,
Wine, Oil, or Honey, which are the principal food of
theſe Eaſtern Nations? The conſtitution of their Bodies,
and the nature of their Clime, enclining them to a more
abſtemious diet than we uſe in England, and other colder
Regions. But I haften to Jeruſalem.
Leaving Beer, we proceeded as before, in a rude ſtony
Country, which yet yielded us the fight of ſeveral old
ruin'd Villages. In two hours and one third we came to
the top of a Hill, from whence we had the firſt proſpect
of Jeruſalem ; Rama, anciently callid Gibeah of Saul, being
within view on the right hand, and the plain of Jericho,
and the Mountains of Gilead on the left. In one hour
more we approached the Walls of the holy City; but we
could not enter immediately, it being neceſſary firſt to
ſend a Meſſenger to acquaint the Governour of our arri-
val, and to deGre liberty of entrance: Without which pre-
ceding


.
A Journey from Aleppo to Ferufalem. 67
out on 5: SEE
ceding Ceremony, no Frank dares come within the Walls.
We therefore palled along by the Weft ſide of the City,
and coming to the corner above Bethlehem Gate, made
a ſtop there, in order to expect the return of our Mel-
ſenger. We had not waited above half an hour, when he
brought us our permiſſion, and we enter'd accordingly at
Bethlehem Gate. It is requir'd of all Franks, unleſs they
happen to come in with ſome publick Miniſter, to diſ-
mount at the Gate, to deliver their Arms, and enter on
foot: But we, coming in company with the French Con-'
ſul, had the privilege to enter mounted and arm’d. Juſt
within the Gate, we turn'd up a Street on the left hand,
and were conducted by the Conful to his own houſe, with
moſt friendly and generous invitations to make that our
home, as long as we ſhould continue at Feruſalem. Having
taken a little refreſhment, we went to the Latin Convent,
at which all Frank Pilgrims are wont to be entertain'd.
The Guardian and Friars received us with many kind
welcomes; and kept us with them at Supper: After which
we return'd to the French Conſul's to Bed. And thus we
continued to take our Lodging at the Conſul's, and our ·
Board with the Friars, during our whole ſtay at Jeruſalem.
Friday, Mar. 26.
The next day being Good Friday in the Latin Style,
the Conſul was obliged to go into the Church of the Sea
pulcher, in order to keep his Feaſt; whither we accom-
panied him, alcho' our own Eaſter was not till a week
after theirs. We found the Church doors guarded by
ſeveral Janizaries, and other Turkiſh Officers; who are
plac'd here to watch, that none enter in, but ſuch as have
firſt paid their appointed Caphar. This is more or leſs
according to the Country, or the Character of the Perſons
that enter. For Franks, it is ordinarily fourteen Dollars
per head, unleſs they are Eccleſiaſticks; for in that caſe
it is but half ſo much.
Having once paid this Caphar, you may go in and out
gratis as often as you pleaſe during the whole Feaſt; pro-
vided
| , !daily
I 2


68 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
vided you take the ordinary opportunities, in which it
is cuſtomary to open the doors : But if you would have
them open'd at any time out of the common courſe, pur-
polely for your own private occaſion, then the firtt ex-
pence muſt be paid again.
The Pilgrims being all admitted this day, the Church
doors were lock'd in the evening, and open'd no more till
Eaſter day; by wbich we were kept in a cloſe, but very
happy confinement for three days. We ſpent our time in
viewing the Ceremonies practis'd by the Latins at this
Feſtival, and in viſiting the ſeveral holy places; all which
we had opportunity to ſurvey, with as much freedom
and deliberation as we pleaſed. .
And now being got under the ſacred Roof, and having
the advantage of ſo much leisure and freedom, I might
expatiate in a large deſcription of the ſeveral holy places,
which this Church (as a Cabinet) contains in it. But this
would be a ſuperfluous prolixity, ſo many Pilgrims having
diſcharg'd this office with ſo much exactneſs already, and
eſpecially our learned ſagacious Country-man MrSandys;
whoſe deſcriptions and draughts, both of this Church,
and alſo of the other remarkable places in and about fe-
rufalem, muſt be acknowledged lo faithful and perfect,
that they leave very little to be added by After-Comers,
and nothing to be corrected. I Mall content my ſelf there-
fore, to relate only what paſs'd in the Church during this
Feſtival, ſaying no more of the Church it ſelf, than juſt
what is neceſſary to make my account intelligible.
The Church of the holy Sepulcher is founded upon
Mount Calvary, which is a {mall Eminency or Hill upon
the greater Mount of Moriah. It was anciently appro-
priated to the execution of Malefactors, and therefore Mut
out of the Walls of the City, as an execrable and polluted
place. But Gince it was made the Altar on which was of-
fer'd up the precious, and all-ſufficient Sacrifice for the
Sins of the whole World, it has recovered it ſelf from
that infamy, and has been always reverenc'd and reſorted
to, with ſuch devotion by all Chriſtiaps, that it has at:
tracked


70 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
theſe, and many other things relating to our Bleſſed Lord
are ſaid to have been done, are all ſuppos'd to be contain'd
within the narrow precincts of this Church, and are all
diſtinguiſhed and adorned with ſo many ſeveral Altars.
In Galleries round about the Church, and alſo in little
Buildings annext to it on the out ſide, are certain apart-
ments for the reception of Friars and Pilgrims; and in
theſe places almoſt every Chriſtian Nation anciently main-
tain'd a ſmall Society of Monks; each Society having its
proper quarter allign'd to it, by the appointment of the
Turks: Such as the Latins, Greeks, Syrians, Armenians,
Abyſſines, Georgians, Neſtorians, Cophrites,Maronites,&c.
all which had anciently their ſeveral apartments in the
Church. But theſe have all, except four, forſaken their
Quarters; not being able ro ſuſtain the ſevere rents and
extortions, which their Turkiſh Landlords impoſe upon
them. The Latins, Greeks, Armenians and Cophrites,
keep their footing ſtill, but of theſe four, the Cophrites
have now only one poor repreſentative of their Nation
left: And the Armenians are run ſo much in debt, that
'tis ſuppos'd they are haſtning apace to follow the exam-
ples of their Brethren, who have deſerted before them.
Beſides their ſeveral apartments, each Fraternity have
their Altars and Sanctuary, properly and diſtinctly allot-
ted to their own uſe. At which places they have a pecu-
liar right to perform their own Divine Service, and to
exclude other Nations from them.
But that which has always been the great prize con-
tended for by the ſeveral Sects, is, the command and ap-
propriation of the holy Sepulcher: A privilege conteſted
with ſo much unchriſtian fury and animoſity, eſpecially
between the Greeks and Latins, that in diſputing which
Party Tould go into it to celebrate their Mafs, they have
ſometimes proceeded to blows and wounds even at the
very door of the Sepulcher; mingling their own blood
with their Sacrifices. An evidence of which Fury the
Father Guardian ſhewed us in a great ſcar upon his Arm,
which he told us was the mark of a wound given him
by


1 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 73
From hence they proceeded in folemn order to the
Priſon of Christ, where they pretend he was ſecur'd whilſt
the Souldiers made things ready for his Crucifixion ;
here likewiſe they ſung their Hymn, and a third Friar
preach'd in French.
From the Priſon they went to the Altar of the divi-
fion of Chriſt's Garments; where they only ſung their
Hymn, without adding any Sermon.
Having done here, they advanced to the Chapel of the
Deriſion; at which, after their Hymn, they had a fourth.
Sermon (as I remember) in French.
From this place they went up to Calvary, leaving their
Shoes at the bottom of the Stairs. Here are two Altars to
be viſited : One where our Lord is ſuppoſed to have been
naild to his Croſs; Another where his Croſs was erected.
At the former of theſe they laid down the great Crucifix,
(which I but now deſcribed) upon the Floor, and acted
à kind of a reſemblance of Chriſt's being nailed to the
Croſs; and after the Hymn, one of the Friars preached
another Sermon in Spaniſh, upon the Crucifixion.
From hence they remov'd to the adjoining Altar, where
the Croſs is ſuppoſed to have been erected, bearing the
Image of our Lord's Body. At this Altar is a hole in the
natural Rock, ſaid to be the very fame individual one, in
· which the foot of our Lord's Croſs ſtood. Here they ſet
up their Croſs, with the bloody Crucified Image upon it;
and leaving it in that poſture, they firſt fung their Hymn,
and then the Father Guardian, ſitting in a Chair before
it, preached a Paſſion Sermon in Italian.
At about one yard and a half diſtance from the hole
in which the foot of the Croſs was fix'd, is ſeen that me-
-morable cleft in the Rock, ſaid to have been made by
the Earthquake, which happen'd at the ſuffering of the
God of Nature; When (as St Matthew, Chap. 27. y: 51.
witneſſech) the rocks rent, and the very graves were opened.
This cleft, as to what now appears of it, is about a ſpan
wide at its upper part, and two deep; after which it cloſes:
but it opens again below, ( as you may ſee in another
K
Chapel


74 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
by any Ceremony of the two Friars Demus, approach
Effigies en
Chapel contiguous to the ſide of Calvary ;) and runs down
to an unknown depth in the Earth. That this rent was
made by the Earthquake, that happen'd at our Lord's
Pallion, there is only tradition to prove : But that it is
a natural and genuine breach, and not counterfeited by
any Art, the ſenſe and reaſon of every one that ſees it
may convince him ; for the ſides of it fit like two Tallys
to each other; and yet it runs in ſuch intricate windings
as could not well be counterfeited by Art, nor arriv'd at
by any Inftruments.
The Ceremony of the Paſſion being over, and the Guar-
dian's Sermon ended, two Friars perſonating, the one
Foſeph of Arimathea, the other Nicodemus, approach'd the
Croſs, and with a moſt ſolemn concern'd air, both of aſpect
and behaviour, drew out the great Nails, and took down
the feigned Body from the Croſs. It was an Effigies ſo
contriv'd, that its Limbs were ſoft and flexible, as if they
had been real Fleſh: and nothing could be more ſurpriſing,
than to ſee the two pretended Mourners bend down the
Arms, which were before extended, and diſpoſe them up-
on the Trunk, in ſuch a manner as is uſual in Corpſes.
The Body being taken down from the Croſs, was re-
ceiv'd in a fair large winding-ſheet, and carried down from
Calvary; the whole Company attending as before, to the
Stone of Unction. This is taken for the very place where
the precious Body of our Lord was anointed, and pre-
pared for the Burial, Fohn 19. 39. Here they laid down
their imaginary Corps; and caſting over it ſeveral ſweet
Powders and Spices, wrapt it up in the winding-ſheet:
Whilſt this was doing, they ſung their proper Hymn;
and afterwards, one of the Friars preached in Arabick
a Funeral Sermon.
Theſe Obſequies being finiſhed, they carried off their
fancied Corps, and laid it in the Sepulcher; ſhutting up
the door till Eaſter morning. And now after ſo many Ser-
mons, and ſo long, not to ſay tedious a Ceremony, it may
well be imagined, that the wearineſs of the Congregation,
as well as the hour of the Night, made it needful to go
to reſt.
Satur.
olee the rou and nothin ort and den


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 78
Saturday, Mar. 27.
The next morning nothing extraordinary paſs'd; which
gave many of the Pilgrims leiſure to have their Arms
mark'd with the uſual enſigns of Jeruſalem. The Artiſts,
who undertake the operation, do it in this manner. They
have ſtamps in Wood of any figure that you deGre; which
they firſt print off upon your Arm with powder of Char-
coal: Then taking two very fine Needles ty'd cloſe toge-
ther, and dipping them often, like a Pen, in certain Ink,
compounded, as I was informed, of Gunpowder and Ox-
Gall, they make with them ſmall punctures all along the
lines of the figure which they have printed ; and then
waſhing the part in wine, conclude the work. Theſe
punctures they make with great quickneſs and dexterity,
and with ſcarce any ſmart, ſeldom piercing ſo deep as to
draw Blood.
In the Afternoon of this day, the Congregation was
aſſembled in the Area before the Holy Grave; where the
Friars ſpent ſome hours in ſinging over the Lamenta-
tions of Jeremiah; which Function, with the uſual pro-
ceſſion to the holy places, was all the Ceremony of this
day.
Sunday, Mar. 28.
On Eaſter morning, the Sepulcher was again ſet open
very early. The Clouds of the former morning were
clear'd up; and the Friars put on a face of joy and ſere-
nity, as if it had been the real juncture of our Lord's
Reſurrection. Nor doubtleſs was this joy feign'd, what-
ever their mourning might be; this being the day in
which their Lenten diſciplines expir'd, and they were
come to a full belly again.
The Maſs was celebrated this morning juſt before the
Holy Sepulcher, being the moſt eminent place in the
Church; where the Father Guardian had a Throne erect-
ed, and being array'd in Epiſcopal Robes, with a Mitre
en his Head, in the light of the Turks, he gave the Hoſt
K2


78 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
Mer and who ihat I beliet touch
contain'd in two holes of the immoveable Rock, one at
the top, the other at the bottom.
From this deſcription it is obvious to ſtart a queſtion, ..
how ſuch doors as theſe were made; whether they were
cut out of the Rock, in the ſame place and manner as they
now hang; or whether they were brought, and fix'd in
their ſtation like other doors ? One of theſe muſt be fup-
pos'd to have been done; and which ſoever part we chooſe
as moſt probable, it ſeems at firſt glance to be not without
its difficulty. But thus much I have to ſay, for the re-
ſolving of this riddle (which is wont to create no ſmall
diſpute amongſt Pilgrims) viz. That the door which was
left hanging, did not touch its lintel, by at leaſt two
inches; ſo that I believe it might eaſily have been lifted
up, and unhinged. And the doors which had been thrown
down, had their hinges at the upper end, twice as long as
thoſe at the bottom; which ſeems to intimate pretty
plainly, by what method this work was accompliſhed.
From theſe Sepulchers, we return'd toward the City
again, and juſt by Herod's Gate were ſewn a Grotto full
of filthy Water and Mire. This paſſes for the Dungeon
in which Jeremiah was kept by Zedekiah, till enlarged by
the Charity of Ebed Melech, fer. 38. At this place we
concluded our viſits for that evening.
Monday, Mar. 29.
The next day being Eaſter Monday, the Moſolem or
Governour of the City ſet out, according to cuſtom,
with ſeveral Bands of ſouldiers to convey the Pilgrims
co Jordan. Without this guard there is no going thither,
by reaſon of the Multitude and inſolence of the Arabs
in theſe parts. The fee to the Moſolem for his Company
and Souldiers upon this occaſion, is twelve Dollars for
each Frank Pilgrim, but if they be Eccleſiaſticks, fix;
which you muſt pay, whether you are diſpos'd to go the
Journey or ſtay in the City. We went out at St Stephen's
Gate, being in all, of every Nation and Sex, about two
thouſand Pilgrims. Having croſs'd the Valley of Jeho-
Saphat,


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 81
and here in the Made we took a Collation with the Pa-
ther Guardian, and about thirty or forty Friars more,
who went this Journey with us.
At about one third of an hours diſtance from hence is
Jericho, at preſent only a poor naſty Village of the Arabs,
We were here carried to ſee a place where Zaccheus's
Houſe is ſaid to have ſtood; which is only an old ſquare
ſtone building, on the South ſide of Jericho. About two
furlongs from hence, the Moſolem, with his people had
encamp'd; and not far from them we took up our Quar-
ters this night.
Tueſday, Mar. 30.
The next morning we ſet out very early for Jordan,
where we arriv'd in two hours. We found the Plain very
barren as we paſs'd along it, producing nothing but a kind
of Samphire, and other ſuch marine Plants. I obſerv'd
in many places of the road, where puddles of water had
ſtood, a whiteneſs upon the ſurface of the ground; which,
upon trial, I found to be a cruft of Salt caus'd by the wa-
ter to riſe out of the Earth, in the ſame manner as it does
every year in the Valley of Salt near Aleppo, after the
Winter's Inundacion. Theſe ſaline effloreſcencies I found
at ſome leagues diſtance from the Dead Sea; which de-
monſtrates, that the whole Valley muſt be all over plenti-
fully impregnated with that Mineral.
Within about a furlong of the River, at that place
where we viſited it, there was an old ruin'd Church and
Convent, dedicated to St John in memory of the Baptiz,
ing of our Bleſſed Lord. It is founded as near as could
be conjectur'd to the very place where he had the honour
to perform that ſacred office, and to waſh him who was
infinitely purer than the Water it ſelf. On the farther ſide
of the foremention'd Convent there runs along a ſmall
deſcent, which you may ficly call the firſt and outermoſt
bank of Jordan; as far as which it may be ſuppos'd che
River does, or at lealt did anciently overflow, at ſome
Seaſons of the Year, viz. at the time of Harveſt, Foſh.3.15.
L
.
or


82 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
or as it is expreſs'd, Chron. 12.15. in the firſt Month, that
is, in March. But at preſent (whether it be becauſe the
River has, by its rapidity of current, worn its Channel
deeper than it was formerly, or whether becauſe its Waters
are diverted ſome other way) it ſeems to have forgot its
ancient greatnefs : For we could diſcern no ſign or pro-
bability of ſuch overflowings, when we were there; which
was the thirtieth of March, being the proper time for
theſe Inundations. Nay ſo far was the River from over-
flowing, that it ran at leaſt two yards below the brink of
its Channel.
After having deſcended the outermoſt bank, you go
about a furlong upon a level ſtrand, before you come to
the immediate bank of the River. This ſecond bank is
ſo beſet with Buſhes and Trees, ſuch as Tamarisk, Wil-
lows, Oleanders, &c. that you can ſee no Water till you
have made your way thro'chem. In this thicket anciently
(and the ſame is reported of it at this day) ſeveral ſorts
of wild Beaſts were wont to harbour themſelves. Whoſe
being waſhed out of the Covert by the overflowings of
the River, gave occaſion to that alluſion, Ferem. 49. 19.
and 50. 44. He hall come up like a lion from the ſwelling
of Jordan.
No ſooner were we arriv'd at the River, and diſmount-
ed, in order to ſatisfy that curioſity and devotion which
brought us thither, but we were alarm'd by ſome Troops
of Arabs appearing on the other ſide, and firing at us;
but at too great a diſtance to do any execution. This
intervening diſturbance hindred the Friars from perform-
ing their ſervice preſcrib'd for this place; and feen'd
to put them in a terrible fear of their lives, beyond
what appear'd in the reſt of the Company: Tho'conſi-
dering the fordidneſs of their preſent condition, and
the extraordinary rewards, which they boalt to be their
due in the World to come, one would think in reaſon,
they of all Men ſhould have the leaſt cauſe to diſcover
ſo great a fear of Death, and ſo much fondneſs of a life
like theirs.
But


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 83
But this Alarm was ſoon over, and every one return'd
to his former purpole: ſome ſtripp'd and bath'd them-
ſelves in the River; others cut down boughs from the
Trees; every Man was employ'd one way or other to
take a memorial of this famous Stream. The Water was
very turbid, and too rapid to be ſwam againſt. For its
breadth, it might be about twenty yards over; and in
depth it far exceeded my height. On the other ſide chere
ſeem'd to be a much larger thicker than on that where
we were: But we durft not ſwim over, to take any cer-
tain account of that Region, for fear of the Arabs; there
being three Guns fired juſt over againſt us, and (as we
might gueſs by their reports) very near the River.
Having finiſhed our deſign here, we were ſummond
to return, by the Moſolem ; who carried us back into the
middle of the Plain, and there fitting under his Tent,
made us pafs before him, Man by Man, to the end he
might take the more exact account of us, and loſe nothing
of his Caphar. We ſeem'd at this place to be near the
Dead Sea, and ſome of us had a great deſire to go nearer,
and take a view of thoſe prodigious Waters. But this could
nor be attempted, without the Licence of our Commander
in chief. We therefore ſent to requeſt his permiſſion for
our going, and a guard to attend us; both which he readi-
ly granted, and we immediately proſecuted our purpoſe.
Coming within about half an hour of the Sea, we found
the ground uneven, and varied into hillocks, much re-
ſembling thoſe places in England where there have been
anciently Lime-kilns. Whether theſe might be the Pits at
which the Kings of Sodom and Gomorrah were overthrown
by the four Kings, Gen. 14. 10. I will not determine.
Coming near che Sea we paſs'd thro'a kind of Coppice,
of Buſes and Reeds; In the midſt of which our Guide,
who was an Arab, Thew'd us a Fountain of freſh Water,
riſing not above a furlong from the Sea: Freſh Water he
call'd it, but we found it brackiſh.
The Dead Sea is enclos'd on the Eaſt and Weſt with
exceeding high Mountains; on the North it is bounded
L2
. with


84 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
with the Plain of Jericho, on which ſide alſo it receives
the Waters of Jordan; on the Souch it is open, and ex-
tends beyond the reach of the Eye. It is ſaid to be twen-
ty four leagues long, and ſix or ſeven broad.
On the Shore of the Lake we found a black ſort of
Pebbles, which being held in the flame of a Candle foon
burns, and yields a ſmoak of an intolerable ſtench. It has
this property, that it loſes only of its weight, but not
of its bulk by burning. The Hills bordering upon the
Lake, are ſaid to abound with this ſort of Sulphureous
Stones. I ſaw pieces of it, at the Convent of St John in
the Wilderneſs, two foot ſquare. They were carved in
Baſſo Relievo, and polith'd to as great'a luſtre as black
Marble is capable of, and were deſign'd for the ornament
of the new Church at the Convent.
It is a common tradition, that Birds, attempting to fly
over this Sea, drop down dead into it; and that no Fin,
nor other ſort of Animal can endure theſe deadly Waters.
The former report I ſaw actually confuted, by ſeveral
Birds flying about and over the Sea, without any viſble
harm: the latter alſo I have ſome reaſon to ſuſpect as
falſe, having obſerved amongſt the Pebbles on the ſhore,
two or three ſhells of Fin relembling Oyſter-Thells. Theſe
were calt up by the Waves, at two hours diſtance from
the Mouth of Jordan: Which I mention, left it ſhould
bę ſuſpected that they mnight be brought into the Sea
that way.
As for the Bitumen, for which the Sea has been ſo fa-
mous, there was none at the place where we were. But
it is gather'd near the Mountains on both Gides in great
plenty. I had ſeveral lumps of it brought me to Feru-
Talem. It exa&ly reſembles Pitch, and cannot readily be
diſtinguiſh'd from it, but by the Sulphureouſneſs of its
Smell and Taſte. .
The Water of the Lake was very limpid, and ſalt to
the higheſt degree; and not only falt, but alſo extream
bitter and nauſeous. Being willing to make an experi-
ment of its ſtrength, I went into it, and found it bore up
my


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 85
actually leerhe waters lo ih Men went tona
feen one of the probity: viz. that'ngly not defti-
my Body in ſwimming with an uncommon force. But as
for that relation of ſome Authors, that Men wading into
it were buoyed up to the top, as ſoon as they go as deep
as the Navel; I found it, upon experiment, not true.
Being deſirous to ſee the remains (if there were any)
of thoſe Cities anciently ſituate in this place; and made
ſo dreadful an example of the divine Vengeance, I dili-
gently ſurvey'd the waters, as far as my Eye could reach:
But neither could I diſcern any heaps of ruins, nor any
ſmoak aſcending above the ſurface of the water; as is
uſually deſcribed in the writings and maps of Geogra-
phers. But yet I muſt not omit what was confidently at-
teſted to me by the Father Guardian, and Procurator of
Jeruſalem; both Men in years, and ſeemingly not deſti-
tute either of ſenſe or probity: viz. that they had once
actually ſeen one of theſe ruins; that it was ſo near the
fore, and the waters ſo ſhallow, at that time, that they
together with ſome French Men went to it, and found
there ſeveral Pillars, and other fragments of Buildings.
The cauſe of our being depriv'd of this fight was, I ſup-
poſe, the height of the water.
On the Weſt ſide of the Sea is a ſmall Promontory, near
which, as our Guides told us, ſtood the Monument of
Lot's Metamorphoſed Wife; part of which (if they may
be credited) is viſible at this day. But neither would the
preſent occaſion permit us to go and examine the truth of
ihis relation, neither, had the opportunity ſerv'd, could
we give faith enough to their report, to induce us to go
on ſuch an errand.
As for the Apples of Sodom ſo much talk'd of, I nei-
ther ſaw, nor heard of any hereabouts : Nor was there
any Tree to be ſeen near the Lake, from which one might
expect ſuch a kind of Fruit; * which induces me to be-
lieve that there may be a greater deceit in this Fruit, than
that which is uſually reported of it; and that its very
being, as well as its beauty is a fiction, only kept up, as
my Lord Bacon obſerves many other falſe notions are,
. Tacit. Hift. Lib. s. Joſeph. Bell. Jud. Lib.s. Cap. s.
becauſe


A Journey from Aleppa to Jeruſalem. 87
From feruſalem to Bethlehem, is but two hours Travel.
The Country thro' which the Road lies, is the Valley of
Rephaim; as may be gather'd from Jof. Ant. Lib.4. Cap. 10.
A Valley ſo famous for being the Theatre of David's Vi-
&tories againſt the Philiſtines, 2 Sam: 5.23. In the Road
you meet with theſe following remarkable places; Firſt,
a place faid to be the Houſe of Simeon, that venerable
old Prophet, who taking our Bleſſed Saviour in his Arms
ſung his Nunc dimittis in the Temple. Secondly, the
famous Turpentine Tree, in the ſhade of which the Blef-
ſed Virgin is ſaid to have repos'd, when ſhe was carry-
ing Chriſt in her Arms, to preſent him to the Lord at
Jeruſalem. Thirdly, a Convent dedicated to Sr Elias,
the impreſs of whoſe Body, the Greek Monks reſiding
here pretend to Mew in a hard Stone, which was wont
to ſerve him for his Bed. Near this Convent alſo is a
Well, where you are told it was, that the Star appear'd
to the Eaſtern Magi to their exceeding joy. Fourthly,
Rachel's Tomb; this may probably be the true place of
her interment, mention'd Gen. 35.19. But the preſent
Sepulchral Monument can be none of that which Jacob
erected; for it appears' plainly to be a modern and Turkiſh
Structure. Near this Monument is a little piece of ground,
in which are pick'd up a little ſort of ſmall round Stones,
exactly reſembling Peaſe : concerning which they have
a tradition here, that they were once truly what they
now ſeem to be ; but that the Bleſſed Virgin petrify'd
them by a Miracle, in puniſhment to a ſurly Ruſtick, who
deny'd her the Charity of a handful of them to relieve
her hunger.
Being arriv'd at Bethlehem, we immediately made a cir-
cular viſit to all the holy places belonging to it: as name-
ly the place where it is ſaid, our Bleſſed Lord was Born;
the Manger in which it is ſaid he was laid ; the Chapel
of St Joſeph his ſuppos'd Facher ; that of the Innocents;
thoſe of St Jerom, of St Paula and Euftochium, and of
Eufebius of Cremona ; and laſtly, the School of St Jerom.
All which places it ſhall ſuffice juſt to name.
From


88 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
· From the top of the Church, we had a large proſpect
of the adjacent Country. The moſt remarkable places
in view were Tekoah, ſituate on the ſide of a Hill, about
nine Miles diſtant to the Southward; Engedi, diſtant about
three Miles Eaſtward; and ſomewhat farther off, the
ſame way, a high ſharp Hill, callid the Mountain of the
Franks, becauſe defended by a Party of the Cruſaders
forty years, after the loſs of Jeruſalem.
Thurſday, April 1.
This morning we went to ſee ſome remarkable places
in the neighbourhood of Bethlehem. The firſt place that
we directed our courſe to, was thoſe famous Fountains,
Pools and Gardens, about one hour and a quarter diſtant
from Bethlehem Southward, ſaid to have been the con-
trivance and delight of King Solomon. To theſe works
and places of pleaſure that great Prince is ſuppos'd to al-
lade, Eccl 2. Š, 6. where amongſt the other inſtances of
his Magnificence, he reckons up his Gardens and Vine-
yards and Pools.
As for the Pools, they are three in number, lying in a
row above each other; being ſo diſpos'd, that the Waters
of the upperinoft may deſcend into the ſecond, and thoſe
of the ſecond into the third. Their figure is quadran-
gular; the breadth is the fame in all, amounting to about
ninety paces; in their length there is ſome difference be-
tween them; the firſt being about one hundred and ſixty
paces long, the ſecond two hundred, the third two hun-
dred and twenty. They are all lin'd with wall, and
plaiſter'd, and contain a great depth of Water.
: Cloſe by the Pools is a pleaſant Caſtle of a modern
Structure; and at about the diſtance of one hundred and
forty paces from them, is the Fountain from which prin-
'cipally they derive their Waters. This the Friars will
have to be that Seald Fountain, to which the holy Spouſe
is compard, Can. 4. 12. And, in confirmation of this
opinion, they pretend a tradition, that King Solomon ſhut
up theſe ſprings, and kept the door of them ſeald with
his


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 89
his Signet; to the end that he might preſerve the Waters
for his own drinking, in their natural freſhneſs and pu-
rity. Nor was it difficult thus to ſecure them, they riſing
under ground, and having no avenue to them but by a
little hole like to the Mouth of a narrow Well. Thro’this
hole you deſcend directly down, but not without ſome
difficulty, for about four yards; and then arrive in a.
vaulted Room, fifteen paces long, and eight broad.
Joining to this, is another Room of the ſame faſhion,
but ſomewhat leſs. Both theſe Rooms are cover'd with
handſome ſtone Arches verò ancient, and perhaps the.
work of Solomon himſelf.
You find here four places at which the Water riſes :
From thoſe ſeparate ſources it is convey'd, by little rivu-
lets, into a kind of Baſın, and from thence is carried by
a large ſubterraneous Paſſage down into the Pools. In the
way, before it arrives at the Pools, there is an Aqueduct
of brick Pipes, which receives part of the Stream, and
carries it, by many turnings and windings about the
Mountains, to Jeruſalem.
Below the Pools here runs down a narrow rocky Valley,
enclos'd on both ſides with high Mountains. This the
Friars will have to be the enclos'd Garden, alluded to in
the ſame place of the Canticles before cited. A garden en-
cloſed is my ſiſter, my Spouſe: a ſpring fout up, a fountain
realed. What truth there may be in this conjecture, I can-
not abſolutely pronounce. As to the Pools, it is probable
enough, they may be the ſame with Solomon's; there not
being the like ſtore of excellent Spring-Water to be met
with any where elſe, throughout all Paleſtine. But for
the Gardens one may ſafely affirm, that if Solomon made
them in the rocky Ground which is now align'd for
them, he demonſtrated greater power and wealth in fi-
niſhing his deſign, than he did wiſdom in chooſing the
place for it.
From theſe memorials of Solomon, we return'd toward
Bethlehem again, in order to viſit ſome places nearer home.
The places we ſaw were, The Field where it is ſaid the
M
Shepherds


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 91
Returning from this place we went to ſee the Greek
and Armenian Convents; which are contiguous to that
of the Latins, and have each their ſeveral doors opening
into the Chapel of the holy Manger. The next place we
went to ſee was the Grot of the Bleſſed Virgin. It is within
thirty or forty yards of the Convent; and is reverenced
upon the account of a tradition, that the Bleſſed Virgin
here hid her ſelf and her Divine Babe from the fury of
Herod, for ſome time before their departure into Egypt.
The Grot is hollow'd into a Chalky Rock; But this white-
neſs they will have to be not natural, but to have been
occaſion'd by ſome miraculous drops of the Bleſſed Vir-
gin's Milk, which fell from her Breaſt whilft ſhe was ſuck-
ling the holy Infant. And ſo much are they poſſeſs'd with
this opinion, that they believe the chalk of this Grotto
has a miraculous virtue for encreaſing Women's Milk.
And I was aſſured from many hands, that it is very fre-
quently taken by the Women hereabouts, as well Turks
and Arabs, as Chriſtians, for that purpoſe, and that with
very good effect; which perhaps may be true enough,
it being well known how much Fancy is wont to do in
things of this nature.
Friday, April 2.
The next morning, preſenting the Guardian with two
Chequeens a piece for his civilities to us, we took our
leaves of Bethlehem, deſigning juſt to go viſit the Wil-
derneſs and Convent of St John Baptiſt, and ſo return to
Jeruſalem.
In this Stage we firſt croſs'd part of that famous Valley,
in which it is ſaid that the Angel in one night did ſuch
prodigious execution, in the Army of Sennacherib. Having
travell’d about half an hour, we came to a Village callid
Booteſhellah; concerning which they relate this remark-
able property, that no Turk can live in it above two years.
By virtue of this report, whether true or falſe, the Chri-
ftians keep the Village to themſelves without moleſtation;
no Turk being willing to ſtake his life in experimenting
M 2
the


92 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
ho' now, almoſt the his Founta
the truth of it. In ſomewhat leſs than an hour more we
came to the Fountain, where they told us, but fally, that
Philip baptized the Æthiopian Eunuch. The Paiſage here
is ſo rocky and uneven, that Pilgrims finding how diffi-
cult the road is for a ſingle Horſeman, are ready to think
it impoſſible that a Chariot (ſuch as the Eunuch rode in,
Afts 8. 28.) ſhould ever have been able to go this way.
But it muſt not be judged what the Road was in ancient
times, by what the negligence of the Turks has now re-
duced it to: for I obſerv'd not far from the Fountain, a
place where the Rock had been cut away in old time, in
order to lay open a good Road; by which it may be ſup-
pos'd that the lame care was us'd all along this Paſſage,
tho’now time and negligence have obliterated both the
fruit and almoſt the ſigns of ſuch labour.
A little beyond this Fountain, we came to that which
they call the Village of St Philip; at which aſcending a
very ſteep Hill, we arrived at the Wilderneſs of St John:
A Wilderneſs it is callid, as being very Rocky and Moun-
tainous; but is well cultivated, and produces plenty of
Corn and Vines and Olive Trees. After a good hours
travel in this Wilderneſs, we came to the Cave and Foun-
tain, where, as they ſay, the Baptiſt exercis'd thoſe ſevere
auſterities related of him, Matt.3.4. Near this Cell there
ſtill grow ſome old Locuſt Trees, the Monuments of the
Ignorance of the middle times. Theſe the Friars aver
to be the very fame that yielded ſuſtenance to the Baptiſt,
and the Popiſh Pilgrims, who dare not be wiſer than ſuch
blind guides, gather the fruit of them, and carry it away
with great devotion.
Having done with this place, we directed our courſe
toward the Convent of St John, which is about a league
diſtant Eaſtward. In our way we paſs'd along one ſide
of the Valley of Elah, where David ſlew the Giant, that
Defyer of the Army of Iſrael. 1 Sam. 17. We had like-
wife in fight Modon, a Village on the top of a high Hill,
the burying place of thoſe Heroical Defenders of their
Country, the Maccabees.
tainous : "hels it is called and at the Wilderich afcendi
Being


A Journey from Aleppo to feruſalem. 93
hut it is nor is a Grottered Eliz
Being come near the Convent, we were led a little out
of the way, to viſit a place, which they call the Houſe of
Elizabeth the Mother of the Baptiſt. This was formerly
a Convent alſo: but it is now a heap of ruins, and the
only remarkable place left in it is a Grotto, in which (you
are told) it was, that the Bleſſed Virgin ſaluted Elizabeth,
and pronounc'd her divine Magnificat. Luke 1.46.
The preſent Convent of St John, which is now inha-'
bited, ſtands at about three furlongs diſtance from this
Houſe of Elizabeth; and is ſuppos'd to be built at the
place where St John was Born. If you chance to ask how
it came to paſs, that Elizabeth liv'd in one Houſe when ſhe
was big with the Baptiſt, and in another when ſhe brought
him forth? The anſwer you are like to receive, is, that
the former was her Country, the latter her City Habita-
tion; and that it is no wonder for a Wife of one of the
Prieſts of better rank (ſuch as ſhe was, Luke 1.6.) to be
provided with ſuch variety.
The Convent of St John has been, within theſe four
years, rebuilt from the ground. It is at preſent a large
ſquare Building, uniform and neat all over, but that which
is moſt eminently beautiful in it, is its Church. It conſiſts
of three Iſes, and has in the middle a handſom Cupola,
under which is a pavement of Moſaick, equal to, if not
exceeding the fineſt works of the Ancients in that kind.
At the upper end of the North Ife, you go down ſeven
Marble Steps, to a very ſplendid altar, erected over the
very place where they ſay the holy Baptiſt was born.
Here are Artificers ſtill employ'd, in adding farther beau-
ty and ornament to this Convent; and yet it has been ſo
expenſive a work already, that the Friars themſelves give
out, there is not a Stone laid in it but has coſt them a
Dollar: which, conſidering the large Sums exacted by
the Turks for Licence to begin Fabricks of this nature,
and alſo their perpetual Extortion and Avarrias after-
wards, beſides the neceſſary charge of Building, may be
allow'd to paſs for no extravagant Hyperbole.
Returning


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 95
fome ſtruggle thro’this Crowd, we went up into the Gal-
lery on that ſide of the Church next the Latin Convent,
whence we could diſcern all that paſs'd in this religious
frenzy.
They began their diſorders by running round the holy
Sepulcher with all their might and ſwiftneſs, crying out
as they went, Huin, which fignifies this is he, or this is
it; an expreſſion by which they aſſert the verity of the
Chriſtian Religion. After they had by theſe vertiginous
circulations and clamours turn'd their heads, and inflam'd
their madneſs, they began to act the moſt antick tricks
and poſtures, in a thouſand ſhapes of diſtraction. Some-
times they dragg'd one another along the floor all round
the Sepulcher; ſometimes they ſet one Man upright on
another's Moulders, and in this poſture march'd round;
ſometimes they took Men with their heels upward, and
hurry'd them about in ſuch an undecent manner, as to ex-
poſe cheir Nudities; ſometimes they tumbled round the
Sepulcher, after ihe manner of Tumblers on the Stage.
In a word, nothing can be imagin'd more rude or extra-
vagant, than what was acted upon this occaſion.
In this tumultuous frantick humour they continued
from twelve 'cill four of the Clock: the reaſon of which
delay was, becauſe of a Suit that was then in debate before
the Cadi, betwixt the Greeks and Armenians; the former
endeavouring to exclude the latter from having any lare
in this Miracle. Both Parties having expended (as I was
inform’d) five thouſand Dollars between them, in this
fooliſh Controverſy; the Cadi at laſt gave ſentence, that
they Tould enter the holy Sepulcher together, as had
been uſual at former times. Sentence being thus given,
at four of the Clock both Nations went on with their Ce-
remony. The Greeks firſt ſet out, in a proceſſion round
the holy Sepulcher, and immediately at their heels fol-
low'd the Armenians. In this order they compaſs'd the
holy Sepulcher thrice, having produc'd all their Gallan-
try of Standards, Streamers, Crucifixes and Embroider'd
Habits upon this occaſion.
Toward
remony:, Sepulcher, and imhic order they, comp. Gallan-


96. A Journey from Aleppo to feruſalem.
Toward the end of this proceſſion, there was a Pidgeon
came fluttering into the Cupola over the Sepulcher; at
ſight of which, there was a greater ſhout and clamour than
before. This Bird, the Latins told us, was purpoſely let
fly by the Greeks, to deceive the People into an opinion
that it was a viſible deſcent of the Holy Ghoſt.
The proceſſion being over, the Suffragan of the Greek
Patriarch (he being himſelf at Conſtantinople,) and the
Principal Armenian Biſhop approach'd to the door of the
Sepulcher, and cutting the ſtring with which it was faſtned
and ſeald, enter'd in, mutting the door after them; all
the Candles and Lamps within having been before ex-
tinguiſh'd, in the preſence of the Turks and other wit-
neſies. The exclamations were doubled, as the Miracle
drew nearer to its accompliſhment; and the People preſs’d
with ſuch vehemence towards the door of the Sepulcher,
that it was not in the power of the Turks, ſet to guard
it, with the ſeverelt drubs, to keep them off. The cauſe
of their preſſing in this manner, is the great deſire they
have to light their Candles at the holy Flame, as ſoon as
it is firſt brought out of the Sepulcher; it being eſteem'd
the moſt ſacred and pure, as coming immediately from
Heaven.
The two Miracle-Mongers had not been above a mi-
nute in the holy Sepulcher, when the glimmering of the
holy Fire was ſeen, or imagin’d to appear, thro' ſome
chinks of the door; and certainly Bedlam it ſelf never
ſaw ſuch an unruly tranſport, as was produc'd in the Mob
at this fight.
Immediately after, out came the two Prieſts with blazing
Torches in their liands, which they held up at the door
of the Sepulcher, while the People throng'd about with
inexpreſſible ardour; every one ſtriving to obtain a part
of the firſt and pureſt Flamc. The Turks in the mean
time, with huge Clubs, laid them on without mercy; but
all this could not repel them, the exceſs of their tranſport
making them inſenlible of pain. Thoſe that got the Fire
applied it immediately to their Beards, Faces and Boſoms,
i pretending


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem: 97
pretending that it would not burn like an Earthly Flame:
but I plainly ſaw, none of them could endure this experie
ment long enough to make good that pretenſion.
· So many hands being employ'd, you may be ſure ,
it could not be long before innumerable Tapers were
lighted. The whole Church, Gallerys, and every place
ſeemed inſtantly to be in a Flame; and with this Illumi.
nation the Ceremony ended. , .
It muſt be own'd, that thoſe two within the Sepulcher,
perform’d their part with great quickneſs and dexterity :
but the behaviour of the Rabble without, very much diſ-
credited the Miracle. The Latins take a great deal of ..
pains to expoſe this Ceremony, as a moſt ſhameful im-
poſture, and a ſcandal to the Chriſtian Religion; perhaps
out of envy, that others ſhould be Maſters of fo gainful
a buGneſs; but the Greeks and Armenians pin their faith
upon it, and make their Pilgrimages chiefly upon this mo-
tive: and 'tis the deplorable unhappineſs of their Prieſts,
that having acted the cheat ſo long already, they are
forc'd now to ſtand to it for fear of endangering the Apo-
Itacy of their People.
· Going out of the Church, after the rout was over, we
faw ſeveral People gather'd about the Stone of Unction,
who having got a good ſtore of Candles lighted with the
holy Fire, were employ'd in dawbing pieces of Linnen
with the Wicks of them and the melting Wax; which
pieces of Linnen were deſign'd for Winding-ſheets: and
'tis the opinion of theſe poor People, that if they can
but have the happineſs to be buried in a ſhroud ſmute
ted with this Celeltial Fire, it will certainly ſecure them
from the Flames of Hell.
Sunday, April 4.
This day being our Eaſter, we did not go abroad to
viſit any places, the time requiring an employment of
another nature.
IN
Monday,


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 101.
Valley on this ſide of the Temple. Antių. Jud. Lib. 15.
Cap. ult.
From theſe Vaults, we return'd toward the Convent.
In our way, we paſs'd thro’the Turkiſh Bazars, and took
a view of the Beautiful Gate of the Temple. But we could
but juſt view it in paſſing, it not being ſafe to ſtay here
long, by reaſon of the ſuperſtition of the Turks.
Tueſday, April 6.
The next morning we took another progreſs about the
City. We made our Exit at Bethlehem Gate, and turning
down on the left hand under the Caſtle of the Piſans,
came in about a furlong and a half to that which they call
Bathſheba's Pool. It lies at the bottom of Mount Sion, and
is ſuppos'd to be the ſame in which Bathſheba was waſh-
ing her ſelf, when David ſpied her from the Terrace of his
Palace. But others refer this accident to another leſſer
Pool in a Garden, juft within Bethlehem Gate; and per-
haps both opinions are equally in the right.
A little below this Pool, begins the Valley of Hinnom;
on the Weſt ſide of which is the place call’d anciently
the Potters Field, and afterwards the Field of Blood, from its
being purchas'd with the pieces of Silver which were the
Price of the Blood of Chriſt: But at preſent, from that
veneration which it has obtain'd amongſt Chriſtians, it
is callid Campo Sancto. It is a ſmall plat of ground, not
above thirty yards long, and about half as much broad.
One moiety of it is taken up by a ſquare Fabrick twelve
yards high, built for a Charnel Houſe. The Corpſes are
let down into it from the top, there being five holes left
open for chat purpoſe. Looking down thro' theſe holes
we could ſee many Bodies under ſeveral degrees of decay;
from which it may be conjectur'd, thar this Grave does
not make that quick diſpatch with the Corpſes committed
to it, which is commonly reported. The Armenians have
the command of this Burying place, for which they pay
the Turks a Rent of one Zequin a day. The Earth is
of a chalky ſubſtance hereabouts.
A little


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 103
Monuments. Amongſt the reſt there are two noble Anti-
quities, which they call the Sepulcher of Zachary, and the
Pillar of Abfalom. Cloſe by the latter is the Sepulcher of
Jehoſaphat, from which the whole Valley takes its Name.
Upon the edge of the Hill, on the oppoſite ſide of the
Valley, there runs along in a direct line, the Wall of the
City. Near the corner of which, there is a ſhort end of
a Pillar jetting out of the Wall. Upon this Pillar the
Turks have a tradition, that Mahomet ſhall fit in Judgment
at the laſt day; and that all the World (all be gathered
together in the Valley below, to receive their doom from
his Mouth. A little farther Northward is the Gate of the
Temple. It is at preſent walld up, becauſe the Turks
here have a Prophecy, that their deſtruction ſhall enter at
that Gate; the completion of which predi&tion they en-
deavour by this means to prevent. Below this Gate, in
the bottom of the Valley, is a broad hard Stone, diſcover-
ing ſeveral impreſſions upon it, which you may fancy to
be Footſteps. Theſe the Friars tell you are Prints made
by our Bleſſed Saviour's Feet, when, after his Apprehen-
Lion, he was hurried violently away to the Tribunal of
his Blood-thirſty Perſecutors.
From hence, keeping ſtill in the bottom of the Valley,
you come in a few paces to a place, which they call the
Sepulcher of the Bleſſed Virgin. It has a magnificent de-
ſcent down into it of forty ſeven Stairs: On the right
hand, as you go down, is the Sepulcher of St Anna the
Mother, and on the left, that of St Joſeph the Husband
of the Bleſſed Virgin.
Having finiſh'd our viſit to this place, we went up the
Hill toward the City. In the Gide of the aſcent, we were
ſhewn a broad Stone on which they ſay St Stephen ſuffer'd
Martyrdom; and not far from it is a Grot, into which
they tell you the outragious Jewiſh Zealots caſt his Body,
when they had ſatiated their fury upon him. From hence
we went immediately to St Stephen's Gate, ſo callid from
its Vicinity to this place of the Protomartyr's ſuffering i
and fo return'd to our Lodging.
Wedneſday,


104 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
Wedneſday, April 7.
The next morning we ſet out again, in order to ſee the
Sanctuaries, and other viſitable places upon Mount Olivet.
We went out at St Stephen's Gate, and croſſing the Valley
of Jehoſaphat, began immediately to aſcend the Moun-
tains. Being got about two thirds of the way up, we came
to certain Grottos cut with intricate Windings and Ca-
verns under ground: Theſe are callid the Sepulchers of
the Prophets. A little higher up, are twelve arch'd Vaults
under ground, ſtanding ſide by ſide; theſe were built in
memory of the twelve Apoſtles, who are ſaid to have com-
pild their Creed in this place. Sixty paces higher, you
come to the place where, they ſay, Chriſt utter'd his Pro-
phecy concerning the final deſtruction of Jeruſalem, Mat.
2. 4.' And a little on the right hand of this, is the place
where, they ſay, he dictated a ſecond time the Pater nofter
to his diſciples. Luke 11. 1, 2. Somewhat higher is the
Cave of St Pelagia; and as much more above that, a Pillar
Ggnifying the place where an Angel gave the Bleſſed Vir-
gin three days warning of her Deach. At the top of the
Hill, you come to the place of our Bleſſed Lord's Aſcen-
fion. Here was anciently a large Church, built in honour
of that glorious Triumph: But all that now remains of it
is only an octogonal Cupola, about eight yards in diame-
ter, ſtanding, as they ſay, over the very place, where were
ſet the laſt Footſteps of the Son of God here on Earth.
Within the Cupola there is ſeen in a hard ſtone, as they
tell you, the print of one of his Feet. Here was alſo that
of the other Foot ſometime ſince; but it has been remov'd
from hence by the Turks into the great Moſque upon
Mount Moriah. This Chapel of the Aſcenſion the Turks
have the cuſtody of, and uſe it for a Moſque. There are
many other holy places about Feruſalem, which the Turks
pretend to have a veneration for, equally with the Chri-
Itians; and under that pretence they take them into their
own hands. But whether they do this out of real de-
votion, or for lucre's ſake, and to the end that they may
exact


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 105
coad, Alan we delice of the post offen
exa& Money from the Chriſtians for admiſſion into them,
I will not determine.
About two furlongs from this place Northward, is the
higheſt part of Mount Olivet; and upon that was ancient-
ly erected an high Tower, in memory of that Apparition
of the two Angels to the Apoſtles, after our Bleſſed Lord's
Aſcenſion. Acts 1. 10, 11. from which the Tower it ſelf
had the Name given it of Viri Galilæi! This ancient Mo-
nument remain d 'till about two years ſince, when it was
demoliſh'd by a Turk, who had bought the Field in which
it ſtood: But nevertheleſs you have ſtill, from the natu-
ral height of the place, a large proſpect of Jeruſalem, and
the adjacent Country, and of the Dead Sea, &c.
. From this place, we deſcended the Mount again by an-
other road. At about the midway down, they ſhew you
the place where Chriſt beheld the City, and wept over it.
Luke 19.41. Near the bottom of the Hill is a great Stone,
upon which, you are cold, the Bleſſed Virgin let fall her
Girdle after her Aſſumption, in order to convince St
Thomas, who, they ſay, was troubled with a fit of his old
Incredulity upon this occaſion. There is ſtill to be ſeen
a ſmall winding channel upon the Stone, which they will
have to be the impreſſion made by the Girdle when it
fell, and to be left for the conviction of all ſuch as ſhall
ſuſpect the truth of their Story of the Aſſumption.
About twenty yards lower they ſhew you Gethſemane ;
an even plat of ground, not above fifty ſeven yards ſquare,
lying between the foot of Mount Olivet and the brook
Cedron. It is well planted with Olive Trees, and thoſe
of fo old a growth, that they are believ'd to be the ſame
that ſtood here in our Bleſſed Saviour's time. In vertue
of which perſuaſion, the Olives, and Olive ſtones, and
Oil which they produce, became an excellent commodity
in Spain. But that theſe Trees cannot be ſo ancient as is
pretended, is evident from what Joſephus teſtifies, Lib.7.
Bell. Jud. Cap. 15. and in other places, viz. that Titus in
his Siege of Jeruſalem, cut down all the Trees within
about one hundred furlongs of Jeruſalem; and that the
Souldiers


106 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
Souldiers were forced to fetch Wood ſo far, for making
their Mounts, when they Affaulted the Temple.
At the upper corner of the Garden is a flat naked ledge
of Rock, reputed to be the place on which the Apoſtles,
Peter, James, and John, fell aſleep during the Agony of
our Lord. And a few paces from hence is a Grotto, faid
to be the place, in which Chriſt underwent that bitter
part of his Paffion..
About eight paces from the place where the Apoſtles
Nept, is a ſmall ſred of ground twelve yards long, and
one broad, ſuppos'd to be the very Path on which the
Traitor Judas walk'd up to Chriſt, ſaying, Hail Maſter,
and kiſſed him. This narrow Path is ſeparated by a Wall
out of the midſt of the Garden, as a Terra damnata; a
work the more remarkable, as being done by the Turks,
who, as well as Chriſtians, deteſt the very ground on
which was acted ſuch an infamous Treachery.
From hence we croſs'd the Brook Cedron, cloſe by the
reputed Sepulcher of the Bleſſed Virgin; and entring at
St Stephen's Gate, return'd again to the Convent.
Thurſday, April 8,
We went to ſee the Palace of Pilate, I mean the place
where they ſay it ſtood, for now an ordinary Turkiſh
Houſe poſſeſſes its room. It is not far from the Gate of
St Stephen, and borders upon the Area of the Temple on
the North ſide. From the Terrace of this Houſe you have
a fair proſpect of all the place where the Temple ſtood;
indeed the only good proſpect, that is allow'd you of it:
for there is no going within the borders of it, without
forfeiting your Life, or, which is worſe, your Religion.
A fitter place for an Auguſt Building could not be found
in the whole world than this Area. It lies upon the top
of Mount Moriah over againſt Mount Olivet, the Valley of
Jehoſaphat lying between both Mountains. It is, as far
as I could compute by walking round it without, five
hundred and ſeventy of my paces in length, and three
hundred and ſeventy in breadth; and one may ſtill diſcern
marks


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 107
marks of the great labour that it coſt, to cut away the
hard Rock, and to level ſuch a ſpacious Area upon ſo
ſtrong a Mountain. In the middle of the Area ſtands at
preſent a Moſque of an octogonal figure, ſuppos'd to be
built upon the ſame ground, where anciently ſtood the
Sanctum Sanctorum. It is neither eminent for its large-
neſs, nor its ſtructure ; and yet it makes a very ſtately,
figure, by the ſole advantage of its ftuation.
• In this pretended Houſe of Pilate is ſhewn the Room
in which Chriſt was mock'd with the Enſigns of Royalty,
and buffeted by the Souldiers. At the coming out of the
Houſe is a deſcent, where was anciently the Scala San&ta.
On the other ſide of the Street (which was anciently part
of the Palace alſo) is the Room where they ſay our Lord
was ſcourg'd. It was once us'd for a Stable by the Son
of a certain Baffa of Jeruſalem : But preſently upon this
profanation, they ſay, there came ſuch a mortality a-
mongſt his Horſes, as forc'd him to reſign the place. By
which means it was redeem'd from that fordid uſe: bụt
nevertheleſs, when we were there, it was no better than
a Weaver's Shop. In our return from Pilate's Palace, we
paſs'd along the Dolorous way; in which walk, we were
Thewn in order; Firſt, the place where Pilate brought our
Lord forth to preſent to the People, with this myſtick
Saying, Behold the Man! Secondly, where Chriſt fainted
thrice under the weight of his Croſs: Thirdly, where.
the Bleſſed Virgin ſwoon'd away at ſo tragical a Spectacle:
Fourthly, where St Veronica preſented to him the Hand-
kerchief to wipe his bleeding Brows: Fifthly, where the
Souldiers compellid Simon the Cyrenian to bear his Croſs.
All which places I need only to name.
Friday, April 9,
. We went to take a view of that which they call the
Pool of Betheſda. It is one hundred and twenty paces
long, and forty broad, and at leaſt eight deep, but void
of Water. At its Weſt end it diſcovers ſome old Arches,
now damm'd up. Theſe ſome will have to be the five
O2
Porches


108 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
Porches in which fate that Multitude of lame, halt, and
blind, John s. but the miſchief is, inſtead of five, there are
but three of them. This Pool is contiguous on one ſide, to
St Stephen's Gate, on the other, to the Area of the Temple,
From hence we went to the Convent or Nunnery of
St Anne. The Church here is large and entire, and ſo
are part of the Lodgings; but both are deſolate and
neglected. In a Grotto under the Church is ſewn the
place, where, they ſay, the Bleſſed Virgin was born. Near
this Church they ſew the Phariſee's Houſe, where Mary
Magdalen exhibited thoſe admirable evidences of a peni-
tent affection towards our Saviour; waſhing his feet with
her tears, and wiping them with her hair, Luke 7.38. This
place alſo has been anciently dignified with holy Build-
ings, but they are now neglected.
This was our morning's work. In the afternoon we
went to ſee Mount Gihon, and the Pool of the ſame Name.
It lies about two furlongs without Bethlehem Gate Weſt-
ward. It is a ſtately Pool, one hundred and ſix paces long,
and ſixty ſeven broad, and lin'd with wall and plaiſter;
and was, when we were there, well ſtor'd with water.
Saturday, April 10,
. We went to take our leaves of the holy Sepulcher ; this
being the laſt time that it was to be open'd this Feſtival.
Upon this finiſhing day, and the night following, the
Turks allow free admittance for all People, without de-
manding any fee for entrance as at other times; calling it
a day of Charity. By this promiſcuous Licence, they let in
not only the poor, but, as I was told, the lewd and vicious
alſo; who come hither to get convenient opportunity for
proſtitution, profaning the holy places in ſuch a manner
(as it is ſaid that they were not worſe defil'd even then
when the Heathens here celebrated their Aphrodiſia.
Sunday, April 11.
Now began the Turks Byram, that is, the Feaſt which
they celebrate after their Lent, calld by them Ramadam.
This


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 113.
with a ſmall Spade, or Paddle of Iron, ſtrong and maffy,
for cleanſing the Plough from the clay that encumbers
it in working. May we not from hence conjecture, that
it was with ſuch a Goad as one of theſe, that Shamgar
made that prodigious ſlaughter related of him Fudg.
3. 31? I am confident that whoever Mould ſee one of
theſe Inſtruments, would judge it to be a Weapon not
leſs fit, perhaps fitter, than a Sword for ſuch an Execu-
tion. Goads of this ſort I ſaw always us'd hereabouts,
and alſo in Syria : and the reaſon is, becauſe the ſame
ſingle Perſon both drives the Oxen, and alſo holds and
manages the Plough; which makes it neceſſary to uſe ſuch
a Goad as is above deſcrib'd, to avoid the encumbrance
of two Inſtruments.
Friday, April 16.
Leaving Kane Leban we proceeded ſtill in our former
Road; and paſſing by Naploſa and Samaria, we came to the
Fountain Selee, and there took up our Lodging this night.
Saturday, April 17.
The next morning we continued on in the ſame Road
that we travelled when outward bound, 'till we came to
Caphar Arab. At this place we left our former way, and
inſtead of turning off on the left hand to go for Acra,
we kept our courſe ſtraight forwards, reſolving to croſs
directly athwart the Plain of Efdraelon, and to viſit Na-
zareth.
Proceeding in this courſe from Caphar Arab, we came
in about half an hour to Feneen. This is a large old Town,
on the skirts of Eſdraelon: It has in it an old Caſtle, and
two Moſques, and is the chief reſidence of the Emir Chibly.
Here we were accoſted with a Command from the Emir
not to advance any farther, 'till he mould come in perſon,
to receive of us his Caphars. This was very unwelcome
News to us, who had met with a trial of his civility
before. But however we had no remedy, and therefore
thought it beſt to comply as contentedly as we could.
Having


112 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
Having been kept thus in ſuſpence from two in the morn-
ing 'till Sun ſet, we then receiv'd an order from the Prince
to pay the Caphar to an Officer, whom he ſent to receive
it, and diſmiſs us.
Having receiv'd this Licence, we made all the hafte
we could to diſpatch the Caphar, and to get clear of
theſe Arabs, but notwithſtanding all our diligence, it was
near midnight before we could finiſh. After which we
departed, and entring immediately into the Plain of El-
draelon, travellid over it all night, and in ſeven hours
reach'd its other ſide. Here we had a very ſteep and
rocky aſcent; but however in half an hour we maſter'd it,
and arriv'd at Nazareth.
Sunday, April 18.
Nazareth is at preſent only an inconſiderable Village,
Gtuate in a kind of round concave Valley, on the top of
an high Hill: We were entertain’d at the Convent built
over the place of the Annunciation. At this place are, as
it were, immur'd ſeven or eight Latin Fathers, who live
a life truly mortified, being perpetually in fear of the
Arabs, who are abſolute Lords of the Country.
We went in the afternoon to viſit the Sanctuary of this
place. The Church of Nazareth ſtands in a Cave, ſuppos'd
to be the place, where the Bleſſed Virgin receiv'd that
joyful meſſage of the Angel, Hail thou that art highly' fa-
youred, &c. Luke 1.28. It reſembles the figure of a Croſs.
That part of it that ſtands for the Tree of the Croſs is
fourteen paces long, and ſix over; and runs directly into
the Grot, having no other Arch over it at top, but that of
the natural Rock. The traverſe part of the Croſs is nine
paces long and four broad, and is built athwart the Mouth
of the Grọt. Juſt at the ſection of the Croſs are erected
two Granite Pillars, each two foot and one inch diameter,
and about three foot diſtance from each other. They are
fuppos’d to ſtand on the very places, one, where the Angel,
the other, where the Bleſſed Virgin ſtood at the time of
the Annunciation. Of theſe Pillars, the innermoſt being
that
of the Grórand four broefraverſe po


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 113
this we tell you ubjection
that of the Bleſſed Virgin, has been broke away by the
Turks, in expectation of finding Treaſure under it; ſo
that eighteen inches length of it is clean gone, between
the Pillar and its Pedeſtal. Nevertheleſs it remains erect';
tho', by what art it is ſuſtain'd, I could not diſcern. It
touches. the roof above, and is probably hang'd upon that:
unleſs you had rather take the Friars account of it, viz.
that it is ſupported by a Miracle.
After this we went to ſee the Houſe of Foſeph, being
the ſame, as they tell you, in which the Son of God liv'd
for near thirty years, in ſubjection to Man. Luke 2. SI.
Not far diſtant from hence, they ſhew you the Synagogue
where our Bleſſed Lord preach'd that Sermon, Luke 4.
by which he ſo exaſperated his Country-men. Both theſe
places lie North Weſt from the Convent, and were an-
ciently dignified each with a handſome Church; but theſe
Monuments of Queen Helena's Piety are now in ruins.
Monday, April 19.
This day we deſtin'd for viſiting Mount Tabor, ſtanding
by it ſelf in the Plain of Eſdraelon, about two or three
furlongs within the Plain.
Its being ſituated in ſuch a ſeparate manner has induc'd
moſt Authors to conclude, that this muſt needs be that
holy Mountain (as St Peter ftiles it, 2 Pet. I. 18.) which
was the place of our Bleſſed Lord's Transfiguration, re-
lated Mat. 17. Mark 9. There you read that Chriſt took
with him Peter, James, and John, into a Mountain apart;
from which deſcription they infer that the Mountain
there ſpoke of can be no other than Tabor. The concluſion
may poſſibly be true, but the argument 'us'd to prove it,
ſeems incompetent; becauſe the term wel idar or apart,
moſt likely relates to the withdrawing and retirement of
the perſons there ſpoken of, and not the ſituation of the
Mountain.
After a very laborious aſcent, which took up near an
hour, we reach'd'the higheſt part of the Mountain. It has
a plain Area at top, moſt fertile and delicious, of an oval
figure,
fles being fitual conclude, hiles it, 2 Pets
on the pila fuch a fepa this mult. 1. 18.





A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. IIS
From the top of Tabor you have a proſpect, which,
if nothing elſe, well rewards the labour of aſcending it.
It is impoſſible for Man's eyes to behold a higher grati-
fication of this nature. On the North Weft you diſcern
at a diſtance the Mediterranean; and all round you
have the ſpacious and beautiful Plains of Efdraelon and
Galilee, which preſent you with the view of ſo many
places memorable for the Reſort and Miracles of the Son
of God.
At the bottom of Tabor Weſtward ſtands Daberah, a
ſmall Village ſuppos'd by ſome to take its Name from
Deborah, that famous Judge and Deliverer of Iſrael. Near
this Valley is the Fountain of Kifhon.
Nor many leagues diſtant Eaſtward you ſee Mount Hero
mon; at the foot of which is ſeated Nain, famous for our
Lord's raiſing the Widow's Son there. Luke 7. 14. and
Endor, the place where dwelt the Witch confulced by Saul.
Turning a little Southward you have in view the high
Mountains of Gilboah, fatal to Saul and his Sons.
Due Eaſt you diſcover the Sea of Tiberias, diſtant about
one day's Journey; and cloſe by that Sea they few à
ſteep Mountain, down which the Swine ran and perish'd
in the Waters. Mat. 8. 32. .,
A few points towards the North appears that which
they call the Mount of the Beatitudes; a ſmall riſing, from
which our Bleſſed Saviour deliver'd his Sermon in the
5,6,7, Chapters of St Matthew. Not far from this little
Hill is the City Saphet, ſuppos'd to be the ancient Be-
thulia. It ſtands upon a very eminent and conſpicuous
Mountain, and is ſeen far and near. May we not ſup-
poſe that Chriſt alludes to this City in thoſe words of his
Sermon, Mat. 5. 14. A City ſet on a hill cannot be hid ?
A conjecture which ſeems the more probable, becauſe our
Lord, in ſeveral places, affects to illuſtrate his diſcourſe
by compariſons, taken from objects that were then pre-
ſent before the eyes of his Auditors. As when he bids
them behold the fowls of the air, chap. 6. 16. and the lilies
of the field, ibid. v. 28.
From
P 2


A Journey from Aleppo to Ferufalem. 119
Acra; in order to which,' going at firſt Northward, we.
croſs'd the Hills that encompaſs'd the Vale of Nazareth
on that lide. After which we turn'd to the Weſtward, and
paſs'd in view of Cana of Galilee; the place ſignaliz'd
with the beginning of Christ's Miracles. John 2.11. In an
hour and a half more we came to Sepharia; a place reve-
renc'd for being the reputed habitation of Foachim and
Anna, the Parents of the Bleſſed Virgin. It had once the
Name of Dioceſaria, and was a place in good repute : but
at preſent it is reduced to a poor Village, ſhewing only
here and there a few rains, to teſtify its ancient better
condition. On the Weſt ſide of the Town ſtands good
part of a large Church, built on the ſame place where,
they ſay, ſtood the Houſe of Joachim and Anna; it is fifty
paces long, and in breadth proportionable.
At Sepharia begins the delicious Plain of Zabulon. We
were an hour and a half in croſſing it; and, in an hour
and a half more, paſſed by a deſolate Village on the right
hand, by Name Satyra. In half an hour more we en-
ter'd the Plains of Acra, and in one hour and a half more
arriv'd at that place. Our Stage this day was ſomewhat
leſs than ſeven hours: It lay about Weft and by North,
and thro' a Country, very delightful, and fertile beyond
imagination.
Wedneſday, April 21.
At Acra we were very courteouſly treated by the French
Conſul and Merchant, as we had been when outward
bound. Having ſtaid only one night, we took our leaves;
and returning by the ſame way of the Coaſt that I have
deſcrib'd before, came the firſt night to our old Lodgings
at Solomon's Ciſterns, and the ſecond to Sidon.
Thurſday, April 22.
Three hours diſtant from Sidon, we were carry'd by
the French Conſul to ſee a place, which we had paſſed
by unregarded in our Journey outward; tho' it very well
deſerves a Traveller's Obſervation.
Ac


118 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
Arabout the diftance of a Mile from the Sea, there runs
along a high rocky Mountain; in the ſide of which are
hewn a multitude of Grots, all very little differing from
each other. They have entrances of about two foot ſquare.
On the inſide you find, in moſt, or all of them, a Room
of about four yards ſquare; On the one ſide of which is
the door, on the other three, are as many little Cells, ele-
vared abouť two foot above the floor. Here are of theſe
ſubterraneous Caverns (as I was inform’d by thoſe who
had counted them) two hundred in number. They go by
the Name of the Grots of The great doubt con-
cerning them is, whether they were made for the dead or
the living. That which makes me doubt of this is, be-
cauſe tho’all the ancient Sepulchers in this Country very
much reſemble theſe Grottos; yet they have ſomething
peculiar in them, which intices one to believe they might
be deſign'd for the reception of the living: For ſeveral of
the Cells within were of a figure not fit for having Corpfes
depoſited in them; being fome a yard ſquare, ſome more,
and ſome leſs; and ſeeming to be made for family ufes.
Over the door of every Cell, there was a channel cut to
convey the Water away, that it might not annoy the
Rooms within. And becauſe the Cells were cut above each
other, ſome higher, ſome lower, in the ſide of the Rock,
here were convenient Stairs cut for the eaſier communica-
tion betwixt the upper and nether Regions. At the bottom
of the Rock were alſo ſeveral old Ciſterns for ſtoring up
Water. From all which arguments it may, with probabi-
lity at leaſt, be concluded, that theſe places were contriv'd
for the uſe of the living, and not of the dead. But what
fort of People they may be that inhabited this fubterra-
neous City, or how long ago they liv'd, I am not able to
reſolve. True it is, Strabo deſcribes the habitations of
the Troglodyta to have been fomewhat of this kind.
Friday, April 23.
We continued this day at Sidon, being treated by our
· Friends of the French Nation with great generoſity.
Saturday,


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 11g
Saturday, April 24.
• This morning we took our leaves of the worthy French
Conſul, and the reſt of our other Friends of that Nation,
in order to go for Daniaſcus.
Damaſcus lies near due Eaſt from Sidon: It is uſually
eſteem'd three days Journey diſtant, the Road lying over
the Mountain Libanus and Anti-Libanus.
Having gone about half an hour thro' the Olive yards
of Sidon, we came to the foot of Mount Libanus. In
two hours and a half more we came to a ſmall Village
called Caphar Milki. Thus far our aſcent was eaſy; but
now it began to grow more ſteep and difficult : In which
having labour'd one hour and one third more,' we then
came to a freſh Fountain called Ambus Lee; where we
encamp'd for this night. Our whole Stage was four hours
and one third ; Our Courſe Eaſt.
Sunday, April 25.
The next day we continued aſcending for three good
hours, and then arriv'd at the higheſt ridge of the Moun-
tain, where the Snow lay cloſe by the Road. We began
immediately to deſcend again on the other ſide; and in two
hours came to a ſmall Village called Mengarah, where
there guſhes out, at once, from the ſide of the Mountain,
a plentiful Stream, which falling down into a Valley be-
low, makes a fine Brook, and after a current of about
two leagues, loſes it ſelf in a River called Letane.
At Meſhgarah there is a * Caphar demanded by the
Druſes, who are the Poffeffors of theſe Mountains. We
were for a little while perplex'd by the exceſſive demand
made upon us by the Caphar-men; but finding us obfti-
nate, they defifted. .
Having gone one hour beyond Mengarah, we got clear
of the Mountain, and enter'd into a Valley called Bocat.
This Bocat ſeems to be the ſame with Bicath Aven, men-
tion'd Amos I. s. together with Eden and Damaſcus; for
. * Half per Frank, quarter per Servant.
there
..


120 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
there is very near it, in Mount Libanus, a place callid Eden
to this day. It might alſo have the Name of Aven, that
is Vanity, given it from the Idolatrous Worſhip of Baal,
pra&tiſed at Balbeck or Heliopolis, which is ſituate in this
Valley. The Valley is about two hours over, and in length
extends ſeveral days Journey, lying near North Eaſt, and
South Weſt. It is encloſed on both ſides with two pa-
rallel Mountains, exactly reſembling each other; the one
that which we lately paſs'd over between this and Sidon, .
the other oppoſite againſt it towards Damaſcus. The for-
mer I take to be the true Libanus, the latter Anti-Liba-
nus; which two Mountains are no where ſo well diſtin-
guilh'd as at this Valley.)
In the bottom of the Valley there runs a large River,
called Letane. It riſes about two days Journey North-
ward, not far from Balbeck; and keeping its courſe all
down the Valley, falls at laſt into the River Caſimir, or
(as it is erroneouſly called) Eleutherus.
. Thus far our courſe had been due Eaſt; but here we
inclin'd ſome points toward the North. Croſſing oblique-
ly over the Valley, we came in half an hour to a Bridge
over the River Letane. It conſiſts of five ſtone Arches,
and is called Kor Aren, from a Village at a little diſtance,
of the ſame Name. At this Bridge we croſs'd the River,
and having travellid about an hour and a half on its bank,
pitch'd our Tents there for this night. Our whole Stage
was eight hours.
Monday, April 26.
The next morning we continued our' oblique courſe
over the Valley Bocat. In an hour we paſs'd cloſe by
a ſmall Village callid fib Jeneen, and in three quarters of
an hour more, came to the foot of the Mountain Anti-
Libanus. Here we had an eaſy aſcent, and in half an hour
paſs’d by, on our right hand, a Village call'd Uzzi. In
Three quarters of an hour more we arriv'd at Ayta, a Vil-
lage of Chriſtians of the Greek Communion. At this laſt
place the Road began to grow very rocky and trouble-
fome;


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 123
Fountains and in the place, buo it; which ſerves
•
two (which I take to be the work of Art) are drawn round,
one to the right hand, and the other to the left, on the
borders of the Gardens, into which they are let as they
paſs, by little Currents, and ſo diſpers'd all over the valt
Wood : Inſomuch that there is not a Garden, but has
a fine quick Stream running thro'it; which ſerves not
only for watering the place, but is alſo improv'd into
Fountains and other Water-works, very delightful, thoʻ
not contriv'd with that variety of exquiſite Art which is
uſed in Chriſtendom.
Barrady being thus deſcrib’d, is almoſt wholly drunk up
by the City and Gardens. What ſmall part of it eſcapes
is united, as I was inform’d, in one Channel again, on
the South Eaſt ſide of the City; and after about three
or four hours courſe, finally loſes it ſelf in a Bog there,
without ever arriving at the Sea.
The Greeks, and from them the Romans, call this
river Chryforrhoas. But as for Abana and Pharpar, rivers of
Damaſcus, mention'd 2 Kings 5. 12. I could find no me-
mory, ſo much as of the Names remaining. They muſt
doubtleſs have been only two Branches of the river Bar-
rady; and one of them was probably the ſame Stream that
now runs through the Ager Damafcenus, directly to the
City, which ſeems by its ſerpentine way to be a natural
Channel: the other I know not well where to find; but
it's no wonder, ſeeing they may, and do turn and alter
the courſes of this river, according to their own conve-
nience and pleaſure. .
We continued a good while upon the Precipice, to take
a view of the City; and indeed it is a hard matter to leave
a Station which preſents you ſo charming a Landskip. It
exhibits the Paradiſe below as a moſt fair and delectable
place, and yet will hardly ſuffer you to ſtir away, to go
to it: thus at once inviting you to the City, by the plea-
ſure which it ſeems to promiſe, and detaining you from
it by the beauty of the Proſpect.
Coming down the Hill into the Plain, we were there
met by a Janizary from the Convent, fent to condu& us
Q_2
into


124 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
sardenale Wall P, exi
into the City. He did not think fit to carry us in at the
Welt Gate, (which was neareſt at hand) and ſo all acroſs
the City, to the Latin Convent where we were to lodge;
for fear the Damafcens, who are a very bigotted and in-
folent Race, Mould be offended at ſo great a number of
Franks as we were : To avoid which danger, he led us
round about the Gardens, before we arriv'd at the Gate.
The Garden Walls are of a very ſingular Structure. They
are built of great pieces of Earth, made in the faſhion of
Brick, and hardn'd in the Sun. In their dimenſions they
are two yards long each, and ſomewhat more than one
broad, and half a yard thick. Two rows of theſe placed
edge ways, one upon another, make a cheap, expeditious,
and, in this dry Country, a durable Wall.
In paſſing between the Gardens, we alſo obſerv'd their
method of Icouring the Channels. They put a great bough
of a Tree in the Water, and faſten to it a Yoke of Oxen:
Upon the bough there fits a good weighty Fellow, to
prefs it down to the bottom, and to drive the Oxen: In
this equipage the bough is dragg'd all along the Channel,
and ſerves at once both to cleanſe che botcom, and alſo
to mud and facten the Water for the greater benefit of
the Gardens.
Entring at the Eaſt Gate, we went immediately to the
Convent, and were very courteouſly receiv'd by the Guar-
dian, Father Raphael, a Majorkine by birth; and a Perfon
who tho’he has dedicated himſelf to the contemplative
Life, is yet not unfit for any affairs of the active. .
Wedneſday, April 28.
This morning we walk'd out to take a view of the City.
The firſt place we went to viſit, was the Houſe of an emi-
nent Turk. The Streets here are narrow, as is uſual in
hot Countries, and the Houſes are all built, on the out-
fide, of no better a material than either Sun-burnt Brick,
or Flemiſh Wall, daub'd over in as courſe a manner as
can be ſeen in the vileſt Cottages. From this dirty way
of building, they have this amongſt other inconveniences,
that


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 125
that upon any violent Rain, the whole City becomes, by
the waſhing of the Houſes, as it were a Quagmire.
It may be wonder'd what ſhould induce the People to
build in this baſe manner, when they have, in the adjacent
Mountains, ſuch plenty of good Stone for nobler Fabricks.
I can give no reaſon for it, unleſs this may paſs for ſuch;
that thoſe who firſt planted here, finding to delicious a lie
tuation, were in halte to come to the enjoyment of it; and
therefore nimbly ſet up thoſe extemporary Habitations,
being unwilling to defer their pleaſure ſo long, as whilft
they might erect more magnificent Structures: wbich pri-
mitive example their Succeſſors have follow'd ever ſince,
But however, in theſe mud Walls you find the Gates
and Doors adorn'd with Marble Portals, carv'd and in-
laid with great beauty and variety. It is an obje& not
a little ſurprizing, to fee Mud and Marble, State and
Sordidneſs To mingled together.
In the inſide, the Houſes diſcover a very different Face
from what you ſee without. Here you find generally a
large ſquare Court, beautified with variety of fragrant
Trees, and Marble Fountains, and compaſs d round with
ſplendid Apartments and Duans. The Duans are floor'd
and adornd on the ſides, with variety of Marble mixt in
Moſaick Knots and Mazes. The Cielings and Traves are,
after the Turkiſh manner, richly Painted and Guilded.
They have generally Artificial Fountains ſpringing up
before them in Marble Baſons; and, as for Carpets and
Cuſhions, are furnith'd out to the height of Luxury. Of
theſe Duans they have generally ſeveral on all Gdes of the
Court, being plac'd at ſuch different points, that at one
or other of them, you may always have either the Shade
or the Sun, which you pleaſe. .
Such as I have deſcrib'd was the Houſe we went to ſee;
and I was told the reft reſemble the ſame deſcription.
In the next place we went to ſee the Church of St
John Baptiſt, now converted into a Moſque, and held too
ſacred for Chriſtians to enter, or almoſt to look into.
However we had three Mort views of it, looking in at
three


126 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
three ſeveral Gates. Its Gates are vaſtly large, and cover'd
with Braſs, ſtampe all over with Arab Characters, and in
ſeveral places with the figure of a Chalice, ſuppos'd to be
the ancient Enſign or Arms of the Mamalukes. On the
North ſide of the Church is a ſpacious Court, which I.
could not conjecture to be leſs than one hundred and fifty
yards long, and eighty or one hundred broad. The Court
is pav'd all over, and enclos'd on the South ſide by the
Church, on the other three ſides by a double Cloiſter,
ſupported by two rows of Granite Pillars of the Corin-
thian Order, exceeding lofty and beautiful.
On the South ſide the Church joins to the Bazars, and
there we had an opportunity juſt to peep into it. It is
within ſpacious and lofty, built with three Illes, between
which are rows of polin'd Pillars of a ſurprizing beauty ;
unleſs perhaps we were tempted to overvalue what was
ſo ſparingly permitted to our Survey.
In this Church are kept the Head of St John, and ſome
other Relicks eſteem'd lo holy, that it is death even for
a Turk to preſume to go into the Room, where they are
kept. We were told here by a Turk of good faſhion, that
Chriſt was to deſcend into this Moſque at the day of Judge
ment, as Mahomet was to do into that of Jeruſalem: but
the ground and reaſon of this tradition, I could not learn.
From the Church we went to the Caſtle, which ſtands
about two furlongs diſtant, towards the Welt. It is a good
Building of the ruſtick manner; in length it is three hun-
dred and forty paces, and in breadth ſomewhat leſs. We
were admitted but juſt within the Gate, where we ſaw
ſtore of ancient Arms and Armour, the Spoils of the
Chriſtians in former times. Amongſt the Artillery was an
old Roman Baliſta; but this was a place not long to be
gaz'd upon by ſuch as we were. At the Eaſt end of the
Caſtle there hangs down in the middle of the Wall a Mort
Chain cut in Stone; of what uſe I know not, unleſs to
boaſt the Skill of the Artificer.
Leaving this place we went to view the Bazars, which
we found crowded with People, but deſtitute of any thing
elſe worth obſerving.
Thurſday,


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 127
-
Thurſday, April 29..
Very early this morning we went to ſee the yearly great
Pomp of the Hadgees ſetting out on their Pilgrimage to
Mecca; Oſtan, Bafſa of Tripoli, being appointed their
Emir or Conductor for this year. For our better ſecurity
from the inſolencies of the over zealous votaries, we hired
a Shop in one of the Bazars thro' which they were to paſs.
In this famous Cavalcade there came firſt fortg fix
Dellees, that is, Religious Madmen, carrying each á Gilk
Streamer, mixt either of red and green, or of yellow and
green; After theſe came three Troops of Segmen, an Or-
der of Souldiers amongſt the Turks; and next to them,
ſome Troops of Spahees, another Order of Souldiery.
Theſe were follow'd by eight Companies of Mugrubines
(fo che Turks call the Barbaroſes) on foot: Theſe were Fel.
lows of a very formidable aſpect, and were deſign'd to be
left in a Garriſon maintaind by the Turks ſome where
in the Deſart of Arabia, and reliev'd every year with freſh
Men. In the midſt of the Mugrubines, there paſs'd ſix ſmall
pieces of Ordnance. In the next place came on foot the
Souldiers of the Caſtle of Damaſcus, fantaſtically Arm’d
with Coats of Mail, Gauntlets, and other pieces of old
Armour. Theſe were follow'd by two troops of Janizaries,
and their Aga, all mounted. Next were brought the Baſ-
ſa's two Horſe Tails, uſer'd by his Aga of the Court;
and next after the Tails follow'd fix led Horſes, all of
excellent Mape, and nobly furniſh'd. Over the Saddle
there was a Girt upon each led Horſe, and a large Silver
Target guilded wich Gold. .
After theſe Horſes came the Mahmal. This is a large
Pavilion of black Silk, pitch'd upon the back of a very
great Camel, and ſpreading its Curtains all round about
the Beaſt down to the Ground. The Pavilion is adorn'd
at top with a Gold Ball, and with Gold Fringes round
about. The Camel that carries it wants not alſo his Orna-
ments of large Ropes of Beads, Fiſh-ſhells, Fox-tails, and
other ſuch fantaſtical finery hang'd upon his Head, Neck,
and
and their Theſe were follow lets, and othea


128 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
and Legs. All this is deſign’d for the State of the Alcoran,
which is placed with great reverence under the Pavilion,
where it rides in State both to and from Mecca. The
Alcoran is accompanied with a rich new Carpet, which
the Grand Signieur ſends every year for the covering of
Mahomet's Tomb, having the old one brought back in
return for it, which is eſteemid of an ineſtimable value,
after having been ſo long next Neighbour to the Pro-
phet's rotten Bones. The Beaſt, which carries this ſacred
Load, has the privilege to be exempted from all other
Burdens ever after.
After the Mahmal, came another Troop, and with them
the Baſſa himſelf; and laſt of all, twenty loaded Camels,
with which the Train ended, having been three quarters.
of an hour in palling.
Having obſerv'd what we could of this Shew, (which
perhaps was never ſeen by Franks before) we went to
view ſome other Curioſities. The firſt place we came to
was the Ager Damafcenus, a long beautiful Meadow, juſt
without the City, on the Weſt lide. It is divided in the
middle by that branch of the river Barrady which ſup- •
plies the City; and is taken nocice of, becauſe of a Tra-
dition current here, that Adam was made of the Earth
of this field.
Adjoining to the Ager Damafcenus is a large Hoſpital:
It has within it a pleaſant ſquare Court, enclos'd on the
South Gde by a ſtately Moſque, and on its other ſides with
Cloiſters, and Lodgings of no contemptible Structure.
Returning from hence homeward, we were ſewn by
the way a very beautiful Bagnio; and not far from it a
Coffee-houſe capable of entertaining four or five hun-
dred People, ſhaded over head with Trees, and with Matts
when the Boughs fail. It had two Quarters for the re-
ception of Gueſts; one proper for the Summer, the other
for the Winter. That deſign'd for the Summer was a
ſmall Illand, walh'd all round with a large ſwift Stream,
and Naded over head with Matts and Trees. We found
bere a Multitude of Turks upon the Duans, regaling
them-


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 129
themſelves in this pleaſant place; there being nothing
which they behold with ſo much delight as Greens and
Warer: to which if a beautiful Face be added, they have
a Proverb, that all three together make a perfe& Anti-
dote againſt Melancholy.
In the afternoon, we went to viſit the Houſe which,
they ſay, was ſometime the Houſe of Ananias, the Reo
ſtorer of ſight to St Paul. Atts 9.17. The place ſhewn
for it is (according to the old Rule) a ſmall Grotto or
Cellar, affording nothing remarkable, but only that there
are in it a Chriſtian Altar, and a Turkiſh praying place,
ſeated nearer to each other than well agrees with the
nature of ſuch places.
Our next Walk was out of the Eaſt Gate, in order to
ſee the place (they ſay ) of St Paul's Viſion, and what
elſe is obſervable on that Gde. The place of the Viſion
is about half a Mile diſtant from the City, Eaſtward;
It is cloſe by the way ſide, and has no Building to diftin-
guiſh it, nor do I believe it ever had : Only there is a
Imall Rock or heap of Gravel which ſerves to point out
the place.
About two furlongs nearer the City, is a ſmall Timber
Structure reſembling the Cage of a Country Burrough.
Within it is an Alcar erected: there, you are told, the
holy Apoſtle reſted for ſome time in his way to this City,
after his Viſion. Afts 9. 8.
Being return'd to the City, we were ſhewn the Gate
at which St Paul was let down in a Basket. Afts 9. 25.
This Gate is at preſent wall'd up, by reaſon of its vici-
nity to the Eaſt Gate, which renders it of little uſe.
Éntring again into the City, we went to ſee the great
Patriarch reſiding in this City. He was a Perſon of about
forty years of Age. The place of his reſidence was mean,
and his Perſon and Converſe promis'd not any thing ex-
traordinary. He told me there were more than one thou-
fand two hundred Souls of the Greek Communion in
that City.
R
:
Friday,


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 131
to live wenty Emperois place
ing only two ſteep aſcents, is very good. In this Stage
we paſs'd by two Villages, the firſt callid Tall, the ſecond
Meneen. At a good diſtance on the right hand is a very
high Hill, reported to be the ſame on which Cain and
Abel offer'd their Sacrifices; and where alſo the former
ſlew his Brother, ſeccing the firſt example of Blood-thed
to the World.
Sydonaiia is ſituated at the farther ſide of a large Vale
on the top of a Rock. The Rock is cut with Steps all up,
without which it would be inacceſſible. It is fenced all
round at the top with a ſtrong Wall, which encloſes the
Convent. It is a place of very mean Structure, and con-
tains nothing in it extraordinary, but only the Wine
made here, which is indeed moſt excellent. This place.
was at firft Founded and Endow'd by the Emperor Juſti-
nian. It is at preſent pofleſt by twenty Greek Monks,
and forty Nans, who ſeem to live promiſcuouſly toge-
ther, without any order or ſeparation.
Here are upon this Rock, and within a little compaſs
round about it, no leſs than fixteen Churches or Orato-
ries, Dedicated to ſeveral Names. The firſt, to St John;
ſecond, to St Paul; third, to St Thomas; fourth, to St Ba-
bylas ; fifth, to St Barbara ; ſixth, to St Chriſtopher; le-
venth, to St Joſeph; eighth, to St Lazarus; ninth, to the
Bleſſed Virgin; tenth, to St Demetrius ; eleventh, to St
Saba; twelfth, to St Peter; thirteenth, to St George ;
fourteenth, to All Saints; fifteenth, to the Aſcenſion; lix-
teenth, to the Transfiguration of our Lord: Prom all which,
we may well conclude, this place was held anciently in
no ſmall repute for San&ity. Many of theſe Churches
I actually viſited; but found them ſo ruin'd and deſolate,
that I had not courage to go to all.
In the Chapel, made uſe of by the Convent for their
daily Services, they pretend to ſhew a great Miracle done
here ſome years ſince; of which take this Account, as I
receiv'd it from them. .
They had once in the Church a little Picture of the
Bleſſed Virgin, very much reſorted to by Supplicants, and
R2
famous


132 “A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
famous for the many Cures and Bleſſings granted in re-
turn to their Prayers. It happen'd that a certain Sacri-
legious Rogue took an opportunity to ſteal away this
Miraculous Picture: But he liad not kept it long in his
cuſtody, when he found it metamorphoſed into a real
Body of Fleſh. Being ſtruck with wonder and remorfe
at ſo prodigious an event, he carried back the prize to
its true Owners, confeſſing and imploring forgiveneſs for
his crime. The Monks having recover'd ſo great a Jewel,
and being willing to prevent ſuch another diſaſter for the
future, thought fit to depoſite it in a ſmall Cheft of Stone;
and placing it in a little Cavity in the Wall behind the
high'Altar, fixt an Iron Grate before it, in order to ſecure
it from any fraudulent attempts for the future. Upon
the Grates there are hang'd abundance of little toys and
trinkets, being the offerings of many Votaries, in return
for the ſucceſs given to their Prayers at this Shrine. Un-
der the ſame Cheſt, in which the Incarnate Picture was
depoſited, they always place a ſmall Silver Baſon, in or-
der to receive the diſtillation of an holy Oil, which, they
pretend, iſſues out from the enclos'd Image, and does
wonderful Cures in many Diftenpers, eſpecially thoſe
affecting the Eyes.
On the Eaſt ſide of the Rock is an ancient Sepulcher
hollow'd in the firm Stone. The Room is about eight
yards fquare, and contains in its fides (as I remember)
twelve Cheſts for Corpſes. Over the entrance there are
carv'd ſix Statues as big as the Life, ſtanding in three
Niches, two in each Nich. At the Pedeſtals of the Sta-
cues may be obſery'd a few Greek words, which, as far
as I was able to diſcern them in their preſent obſcurity,
:. are as follows.
ETOYCIO.. 11[O YJ A JOIA I (10YA SAHMH
10YA SAPTE n] O1KOC TPIOC KA[I A[pl]
WIAIPOC KAI [K]AI A OMNCINA AANH TY[NH]
Per KY TÍNH TINH DIANTAC ENQIOY[N]
Under the firſt. Under the ſecond. Under the third Nich.
A Gen-


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 133
· A Gentleman in our Company, and my ſelf have reaſon
to remember this place, for an eſcape we bad in it. A
drunken Janizary, paffing under the Window where we
were, chanc'd to have a drop of Wine thrown out upon
his Velt. Upon which innocent provocation, he preſente
ed his Piſtol at us in at the Window : Had it gone off,
it muſt have been fatal to one or both of us, who fate
next the place. But it pleas'd God to reſtrain his fury.
This evening we return'd again to Damaſcus.
Monday, May 3.
This morning we went to ſee the Street callid Straight.
Acts 9. II. It is about half a mile in length, running
from Eaſt to Weſt thro' the City. It being narrow, and
the Houſes jutting out in ſeveral places on both ſides,
you cannot have a clear proſpect of its length and
Itraightneſs. In this Street is ſhewn the Houſe of Judas,
with whom St. Paul lodged ; and in the ſame Houſe is
an old Tomb, ſaid to be Ananias's : but how he ſhould
come to be buried here, they could not tell us, nor could
we gueſs; his own Houſe being ſewn us in another place.
However the Turks have a reverence for this Tomb, and
maintain a Lamp always burning over it.
In the afternoon, having prelented the Convent with
ten per Man for our kind reception, we took our leaves
of Damaſcus, and ſap'd our courſe for Tripoli; deſigning
in the way to fee Balbeck, and the Cedars of Libanus. In
order to this, we return'd the ſame way by which we came;
and croſſing the river Barrady again at the Bridge of
Dummar, came to a Village of the ſame Name a little
farther, and there lodg'd this night. We travellid this
afternoon three hours.
Tueſday, May 4:
This morning we left our old Road, and took another
more Northerly. In an hour and a half we came to a
ſmall Village call'd Sinie ; juſt by which is an ancient
Structure on the top of an high Hill, ſuppos'd to be the
Tomb
Ours,


134 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
Tomb of Abel, and to have given the adjacent Country in
old times the Name of Abilene. The Fratricide allo is
ſaid by ſome to have been committed in this place. The
Tomb' is thirty yards long; and yet it is here believ'd
to have been but juſt proportion'd to the Stature of Him
who was buried in it. Here we enter'd into a narrow Gut,
between two ſteep rocky Mountains, the river Barrady
running at the bottom. On the other ſide of the river
were ſeveral tall Pillars, which excited our Curioſity to
go and take a nearer view of them. We found them part
of the front of ſome ancient and very magnificent Edi-
fice, but of what kind we could not conjecture.
We continued upon the Banks of Barrady, and came in
three hours to a Village callid Maday; and in two hours
more to a Fountain call d Ayn il Hawra, where we lodg'd.
Our whole Stage was ſomewhat leſs than ſeven hours, our
Courſe near North Weſt.
Wedneſday, May s.
This morning we paſs'd by the Fountain of Barrady,
and came in an hour and two thirds to a Village call'd
Surg awich. At this place, we left the narrow Valley, in
which we had travelled ever ſince the morning before,
and afcended the Mountain on the left Hand. Having
fpent in croſſing it two hours, we arrived a ſecond time
in the Valley of Bocat; here ſteering Northerly directly
up the Valley, we arrived in three hours at Balbeck. Our
Stage this day was ncar ſeven hours, and our Courſe near
about Weſt.
At Balbeck we pitch'd at a place leſs than half a mile
diftant from the Town, Eaſtward, near a plentiful and
delicious Fountain, which grows immediately into a
Brook; and running down to Balbeck, adds no ſmall
pleaſure and convenience to the place.
In the afternoon we walked out to ſee the City. But
we thought fit, before we enter'd, to get Licenſe of the
Governour, and to proceed with all caution. Being taught
this neceſſary care by the example of ſome worthy Engliſh
Gentlemen





Pag.135
The Outward fide of ovent
Garple.
The Tuſcan Temple niple at
Connpard tupi t ) .
'Temple of Birs...
ili
ill
•
200r delin.
ſculp: ..


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 137
exquiſite Sculpture. On the nethermoſt ſide of the Portal
is carv'd a Fame, hovering over the head as you enter,
and extending its Wings two thirds of the breadth of the
Gate; and on each Gde of the Eagle is deſcrib'd a Fame
likewiſe upon the Wing. The Eagle carries in its Pounces
a Caduceus, and in his Beak the Strings or Ribbons com-
ing from the ends of two Feſtoons ; whoſe other ends are
held and ſupported on each ſide by the two Fames. The
whole ſeem'd to be a piece of admirable Sculpture.
The meaſure of the Temple within, is forty yards in
length, and twenty in breadth. In its Walls all round are
two rows of Pilaſters, one above the other; and between
the Pilaſters are Niches, which ſeem to have been delign'd
for the reception of Idols. Of theſe Pilaſters there are
eight in a row, on each ſide; and of the Niches, nine.
About eight yards diſtance from the upper end of the
Temple, ſtands part of two fine channell’a Pillars; which
ſeem to have made a partition in that place, and to have
ſupported a Canopy oyer the Throne of the chief Idol,
whoſe Station appears to have been in a large Nich at this
end. On that part of the partition which remains, are
to be ſeen Carvings in Relievo repreſenting Neptune,
Tritons, Fiſhes, Sea-Gods, Arion and his Dolphin, and
other Marine Figures. The covering of the whole Fa-
brick is totally broken down, but yet this I muſt ſay of
'the whole, as it now ſtands, that it ſtrikes the Mind with
an Air of Greatneſs beyond any thing that I ever ſaw be-
fore, and is an eminent proof of the Magnificence of the
ancient Architecture.
About fifty yards diſtant from the Temple, is a row
of Corinthian Pillars, very great and lofty; with a moſt
ſtately Architrave and Corniſh at top. This ſpeaks it ſelf
to have been part of ſome very Auguſt Pile, but what one
now ſees of it, is but juſt enough to give a regret that
there ſhould be no more of it remaining.
Here is another Curioſity of this place, which a Man
had need be well aſſur'd of his Credit before he ventures
to relate, lelt he ſhould be thought to ſtrain the privilege
apore, and ischitecture: diſtant frat and lofty is ſpeaks at one


138 A Journey from Aleppo to feruſalem.
of a Traveller too far. That which I mean is a large
piece of the old Wall, or reciborg, which encompaſs'd
all theſe Structures laſt deſcrib’d. A Wall made of ſuch
monſtrous great Stones, that the Natives hereabouts (as
it is uſual in things of this ſtrange Nature) aſcribe it to
the Architecture of the Devil. Three of the Stones, which
were larger than the reſt, we took the pains to meaſure,
and found them to extend fixty one yards in length; one
twenty one, the other two each twenty yards. In deep-
neſs they were four yards each, and in breadth of the
fame dimenſion. Theſe three Stones lay in one and the
fame row, end to end. The reſt of the Wall was made
alſo of great Stones, but none, I think, ſo great as theſe.
That which added to the wonder was, that theſe Stones
were lifted up into the Wall, more than twenty foot from
the ground.
- In the ſide of a ſmall aſcent, on the Eaſt part of the
Town, ſtood an old ſingle Column, of the Tuſcan Or-
der, about eighteen or nineteen yards high, and one
gard and a half in diameter : It had a Channel cut in
its ſide from the bottom to the top; from whence we
judg'd it might have been ereded for the ſake of railing
Water.
At our return to our Tents, we were a little perplex'd
-by the Servants of the Mofolem, about our Caphar. We
were contented at laſt to judge it at ten per Frank, and
five per Servant, rather than we would engage in a long
diſpute at ſuch a place as this. .
Near the place where we were lodged was an old
Moſque, and as I ſaid before ) a fine Fountain. This
latter had been anciently beautified with ſome handſome
Stone-work round it, which was now almoft ruined;
however it afforded us this imperfect Inſcription.
:
.:.TWN


140 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
Having aſcended one hour, we arriv'd at the Snow; and
proceeding amongſt it for one hour and a half more, we
then choſe out as warm a place as we could find in ſo
high a Region ; and there we lodg’d this night upon the
very top of Libanus. Our whole Stage this day was ſeven
hours and a half.
Libanus is in this part free from Rocks, and only riſes
and falls with ſmall, eaſy unevenneſſes, for ſeveral hours
riding; but is perfe&ly barren and defolate. The ground,
where not conceald by the Snow, appear'd to be cover'd
with a ſort of white Slates thin and ſmooth. The chief
benefit it ſerves for, is, that by its exceeding height, it
proves a conſervatory for abundance of Snow, which,
ihawing in the heat of Summer, affords ſupplies of Wa-
ter to the Rivers and Fountains in the Valleys below.,
We ſaw, in the Snow, prints of the feet of ſeveral wild
Beaſts, which are the ſole Proprietors of theſe upper parts
of the Mountains.
Friday, May 7.
The next morning we went four hours almoſt perpe-
tually upon deep Snow; which, being frozen, bore us
and our Horſes: and then deſcending for about one hour,
came to a Fountain calld, from the Name of an adja-
cent Village, Ayn il Hadede. By this time we were got
into a milder and better Region.
Here was the place, where we were to ſtrike out of the
way, in order to go to Canobine and the Cedars. And
ſome of us went upon this deſign, whilſt the reſt choſe
rather to go direaly for Tripoli, to which we had not now
above four hours. We took with us a Guide, who pre-
tended to be well acquainted with the way to Canoline;
but he prov'd an ignorant Director: and after he had led
us about for ſeveral hours in intricate and untrodden
Mazes amongſt the Mountains, finding him perfe&tly at
a loſs, we were forc'd to forſake our intended viſit for the
preſent, and to ſteer directly for Tripoli ; where we arriv'd
late at night, and were again entertain'd by our worthy
Friends


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem. 141
Friends, Mr Conſul Haſtings and Mr Fiſher, with their
wonted friendſhip and generoſity.
Saturday, May 8.
In the afternoon Mr Conſul Haſtings carry'd us to ſee
the Caſtle of Tripoli. It is pleaſantly ſituate on a Hill,
commanding the City; but has neither Arms, nor Am-
munition in it, and ſerves rather for a Priſon than a Gara
riſon. There was ſhut up in it at this time a poor Chri-
ſtian Priſoner, callid Sheck Eunice, à Maronite. He was
one that had formerly renounc'd his Faith, and liv'd for
many years in the Mahometan Religion : but in his de-
clining Age, he both retracted his Apoſtacy, and died to
attone for it; for he was impal'd by order of the Baffa
two days after we left Tripoli. This puniſhment of im-
paling is commonly executed amongſt the Turks for crimes
of the higheſt degree; and is certainly one of the greateſt
indignities and barbarities that can be offered to human
Nature. The execution is done in this manner. They
take a Poft of about the bigneſs of a Man's Leg, and eight
or nine foot long, and make it very ſharp at one end.
This they lay upon the back of the Criminal, and force
him to carry it to the place of Execution: imitating here-
in the old Roman Cuſtom, of compelling Malefactors to
bear their Croſs. Being arriv'd at the fatal place, they
thruſt in the Stake at the Fundament of the Perſon, who
is the miſerable Subject of this doom; and then taking
him by the Legs draw on his Body upon it, 'till the point
of the Stake appears at his Shoulders. After this they erect
the Stake, and faſten it in a hole dug in the ground. The
Criminal fitting in this poſture upon it, remains not only
ſtill alive, but alſo drinks, ſmoakes, and talks, as one per-
fe&tly ſenſible; and thus ſome have continued for twenty
four hours. But generally, after the tortur'd Wretch has
remain'd in this deplorable and ignominious poſture an
hour or two, ſome one of the Standers by is permitted
to give him a gracious ſtab to the Heart; ſo putting an
end to his unexprefGble miſery.
Sunday,
of the Stake ad faften it inoſture upon ita talks, as oneventy
ofte Stake, arting in thrinks, ſom
the Sinal litiut alſo a thus tol after Tignons by is


144 A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
Tueſday, May 11.
This day we took our leaves of our worthy Tripoli
Friends, in order to return for Aleppo. We had ſome
debate with our ſelves, whether we ſhould take the ſame
way by which we came, when outward bound, or a new
one by Emiſſa Hempſe and Hamal. But we had notice
of ſome diſturbances upon this latter road; ſo, we con-
tented our ſelves to return by the ſame way we came:
for having had enough by this time both of the pleaſure,
and of the fatigue of travelling, we were willing to put
an end to both, the neareſt and ſpeedieſt way. All that
occurr'd to us new in theſe days Travel, was, a particular
way us'd by the Country People in gathering their Corn;
it being now Harveſt time. They pluck'd it up by hand-
fulls from the roots; leaving the moſt fruitful Fields as
naked as if nothing had ever grown on them. This was
their practice in all places of the Eaſt that I have ſeen:
and the reaſon is, that they may loſe none of their Straw,
which is generally very ſort, and neceſſary for the ſufte-
nance of their Cattle; no Hay being here made. I men-
tion this, becauſe it ſeems to give light to that expreſ-
fion of the Pſalmiſt, Pf. 129.6. which withereth before it be
plucked up; where there ſeems to be a manifeſt alluſion to
this Čuſtom. Our new Tranſlation renders this place o-
therwiſe: but in ſo doing it differs from moſt, or all other
Copies; and here we may truly ſay, the old is the better.
There is indeed mention of a Mower in the next Verſe;
but then it is ſuch a Mower as fills not his hand; which con-
firms, rather than weakens, the preceding Interpretation.
Returning therefore by our former Stages, without any
notable alteration or occurrence, we came in eight day's
to the Honey Kane : at which place we found many of
our Aleppine Friends, who having heard of our drawing
homeward were come to meet us, and welcome us home.
Having dined together, and congratulated each other
upon our happy reunion, we went onward the ſame even-
ing to Aleppo.
Thus


A Journey from Aleppo to Jeruſalem.
145
Thus, by God's infinite mercy and protection, we were
reſtor'd all in ſafety to our reſpective Habitations. And
here, before I conclude, I cannot but take notice of one
thing more, which I Mould earneſtly recommend to the
devout and grateful remembrance of every perſon engag'd
in this Pilgrimage : viz. that amongſt fo great a Com-
pany as we were, amidſt, ſuch a multiplicity of dangers
and caſualties, ſuch variety of Pood, Airs and Lodgings,
(very often none of the beſt ) there was no one of us
that came to any ill accident throughout our whole Tra-
vels; and only one that fell Sick by the conſequences of
the Journey, after our return. Which I eſteem the leſs
diminution to ſo ſingular a mercy, in regard that amongſt
ſo many of my dear Friends and Fellow Travellers, it
fell to my own ſhare to be the Sufferer.
Ata Dewao
FINI .
T
.
Since


+ 146
An Account of the Turks.
Since the Book was Printed off, the two
following Letters, relating to the
ſame Subject, were communicated
by the Reverend Mr Osborn Fellow
of Exeter College; to whom they were
fent by the Author, in Anſwer to
ſome Queſtions propos’d by Him.
SIR,
T Received yours of June 27. 1698. and re-
turn'd you an Anſwer to it in brief, about
three Months ſince; promiſing to ſupply what
was then wanting, at ſome other opportu-
nity : which promiſe I ſhall now make good. You
deſired an Account of the Turks, and of our way
of living amongſt them. As to the former, it
would fill a Volume to write my whole thoughts
about them. I ſhall only tell you at preſent,
that I think they are very far from agreeing
with that Character which is given of them in
Chriſtendom; elpecially for their exact Juſtice,
Veracity, and other moral Virtues: upon account
of which, I have ſometimes heard them men-
tion'd with very extravagant Commendations ;
as tho they far exceeded Chriſtian Nations. But
I muſt profeſs my ſelf of another Opinion: For
the Chriſtian Religion, how much foever we live
below the true Spirit and Excellency of it, muſt
ſtill


148 An Account of the Turks.
way theſe Eaſtern Nations have certainly the moſt
exquiſite Rhetorick of any People upon Earth.
They know hardly any Pleaſure but that of the
fixth Senſe. And yet with all this, they are in.
credibly conceited of their own Religion; and
contemptuous of that of others: which I take
to be the great Artifice of the Devil, in order to
keep them his own. They are a perfect viſible
Comment upon our Bleſſed Lord's Deſcription
of the Jewiſo Phariſees. In a word, Luft, Arro-
gance, Covetouſneſs, and the moſt exquiſite Hy-
pocriſy compleat their Character. The only thing
that ever I could obſerve to commend in them
is, the outward Decency of their Carriage, the
profound Reſpect they pay to Religion and to
every thing relating to it, and their great Tem-
perance and Frugality. The dearneſs of any thing
is no motive in Turky, tho' it be in England, to
bring it into Faſhion.
As for our living amongſt them, it is with all
poſſible quiet and ſafety : And that's all we de-
fire, their Converſation being not in the leaſt en-
tertaining. Our Delights are among our ſelves:
and here being more than forty of Us, we ne-
ver want a moft Friendly and Pleaſant Conver-
fation. Our way of Life reſembles, in ſome
meaſure, the Academical. We live in ſeparate
Squares, ſhut up every night after the manner
of Colleges. We begin the day conſtantly, as
You do, with Prayers; and have our ſet times
for Buſineſs, Meals and Recreations. In the Win-
ter we Hunt in the moſt delightful Campaign
twice a week; and in the Summer go as often to
divert


An Account of the Turks. 149
divert Our ſelves under our Tents, with Bowl-
ing, and other Exerciſes. So that you ſee we
want not Divertiſements; and theſe all Inno-
cent' and Manly. In ſhort, 'tis my real Opinion,
that there is not a Society out of England, that
for all good and deſireable Qualities, may be
compard to this. But enough of this Confuſion,
which I would have ſhorten'd, and put in better
order, if I had had time,
March 10. 1694
SIR,


[ 150 ]
An Account of Gehazi's Diſtemper; And of a No-
tion entertain'd in the Greek Church, concerning
the Bodies of perſons dying under Excommunication.
SIR
O
XS for your Queſtions about Gehazi's Poſte-
A rity, and the Greek Excommunications, I
have little to anſwer; but yet I hope enough to
give You and your Friend ſatisfaction. When I
was in the Holy Land, I ſaw ſeveral that labour'd
under Gehazi's Diftemper; but none that could
pretend to derive his Pedigree from that Perſon.,
Some of them were poor enough to be his Rela-
tions : particularly at Sichem (now Naploſa) there
were no leſs than ten (the ſame number that was
cleans'd by our Saviour not far from the ſame
place) that came a begging to Us at one time.
Their manner is to come with ſmall Buckets
in their hands, to receive the Alms of the Cha-
ritable; their touch being ſtill held infectious,
or at leaſt unclean. The Diſtemper, as I ſaw
it in them, was very different from what I have
ſeen it in England: for it not only defiles the
whole ſurface of the Body with a foul Scurf;
but alſo deforms the Joints of the Body; parti-
cularly thoſe of the Wriſts and Ancles; making
them ſwell with a Gouty ſcrofulous Subſtance,
very loathſome to look upon. I thought their
Legs reſembled thoſe of old batter'd Horſes,
ſuch as are often ſeen in Drays in England. The
whole Diſtemper indeed, as it there appear’d, was
0


An Account of Gehazi's Diftemper, &c. 151
fo noiſome, that it might well paſs for the utmoſt
Corruption of the Human Body on this ſide the
Grave. And certainly the inſpired Pen-men could
not have found out a fitter Emblem, whereby to
expreſs the uncleanneſs and odiouſneſs of Vice.
But to return to Gehazi: 'Tis no wonder if the
deſcent from him be by time obſcur'd; ſeeing
the beſt of the Jews, at this time of day, are at
a loſs to make out their Genealogies. But be-
fides, I fee no neceſſity in Scripture for his Line's
being perpetuated. The term (for Ever) is, you
know, often taken in a limited ſenſe in Holy.
writ, of which the deſignation of Phineas's Fa-
mily to the Prieſthood, Numb. 25. 13. may ſerve
for an Inſtance. His Poſterity was, you know,
cut entirely off from the Prieſthood, and that
transferr'd to Eli (who was one of another Line)
about 300 years after.
I have enquired of a Greek Prieſt, a Man not
deſtitute either of Senſe or Probity, about your
other Queſtion. He poſitively affirmed it, and
produced an Inſtance of his own knowledge in
Confirmation of it. He ſaid, that about is years
ago, a certain Greek departed this Life without
Abſolution ; being under the guilt of a Crime,
which involv'd him in the ſentence of Excommu-
nication, but unknown to the Church. He had
Chriſtian Burial given him; and about 10 years
after, a $on of his dying, they had occaſion to
open the ground near where his Body was laid,
in order to bury his Son by him. By which
means they diſcover'd his Body as entire, as when
it was firſt laid in the Grave, The Shrowd was
rotted


152 An Account of Gehazi's Diftemper, &c.
rotted away, and the Body naked and black, but
perfectly found. Report of this being brought
to the Biſhop, he immediately ſuſpected the cauſe
of it; and ſent ſeveral Prieſts (of whom the Re-
lator was one) to pray for the Soul of the de.
parted, and to abſolve him at his Grave. Which
they had no ſooner done, but (as the Relator
goes on the Body inſtantly diffolv'd and fell into
Duft like ſlack'd Lime. And ſo (well ſatisfied with,
the Effect of their Abſolution) they departed.
This was delivered to me verbo Sacerdotis. The
Man had hard fortune not to dye in the Romih
Communion ; for then his Body being found
ſo entire would have entitled him to Saintſhip.
For the Romaniſts, as I have both heard and
ſeen, are wont to find out and maintain the Re-
licks of Saints by this token. And the ſame fign,
which proves an Anathema Maranatha amongſt the
Greeks, demonſtrates a Saint amongſt the Papifts:
perhaps both equally in the right.
April 12. 1700.


( 153 )
Α
Ν
ICCOUNT
THE
AUTHOR'S JOURNEY
FROM
Aleppo to the River Euphrates, the
City Beer, and to Meſopotamia.
TE ſet out from Aleppo, April 17th 1699.
and ſteering Eaſt North Eaſt, ſomewhat
leſs, we came in three hours and a half.
to Surbaſs.
Tueſday, April 18,
We came in three hours and a half to Bezay, paſſing
by Bab, where is a good Aqueduct * Dyn il Daab, to
which you deſcend by about thirty Steps; and Lediff
a pleaſant Village. Our Courſe thus far was Eaſt and by
North. In the Afternoon we advanced three hours fure
ther, Courſe North Eaſt, to an old ruin'd place, former-
·ly of ſome Conſideration, callid Acamy: It is ſituated in
the Wilderneſs on a Hill encompaſſed by a Valley; It
was large, and had the footſteps of ſome Symmetry, good
Walls and Buildings. :
Wedneſday, April 19,
We went Eaſt and by North, and in four hours arriv'd
at Bambych. This Place has no remnants of its Ancient
• The Difria of Daab.
U Greatneſs


154 The Author's Journey from Aleppo
Greatneſs but its Walls, which may be traced all round,
and cannot be leſs than three miles in compaſs. Several
fragments of them remain on the Eaſt Side, eſpecially at
the Eaſt Gate; and another piece of eighty yards long,
with Towers of large ſquare itone extreamly well built.
On the North Side I found a Stone with the Buits of a
Man and Woman, large as the life; and under, two Eagles
carv'd on it. Not far from it, on the ſide of a large Well,
was fixed a Stone with three Figures carved on it, in
Baſſo Relievo. They were two Sirens, which twining
their firy Tails together, made a Seat, on which was
placed ſitting a naked Woman, her Arms and the Sirens
on each ſide mutually entwined.
On the Weſt Side is a deep Pit of about a roo yards dia-
meter. It was low, and had no Water in it, and ſeem'd
to have had great Buildings all round it; with the Pillars
and Ruins of which, it is now in part filled up; but not
ſo much, but that there was ſtill Water in it. Here are
a multitude of Subterraneous Aqueducts brought to this
City; the People atteſted no fewer than fifty. You can
ride no where about the City, without ſeeing them. We
pitched by one, about a quarter of a mile Eaſt of the City,
which yields a fine Stream; and emptying it ſelf into a
Valley, waters it, and makes it extreamly fruitful. Here
perhaps were the Paſtures of the Beaſts deſign'd for Sa-
crifices. Here are now only a few poor Inhabitants, tho'
antiently all the North Side was well inhabited by Sara-
cens; as may be ſeen by the remains of a noble Moſque
and a Bagnio a little without the Walls. We were here
viſited by a Company of Begdelies, who were incamped
fome hours further towards Euphrates, having about 1000
Horſe there.
Thurſday, April 20,
For avoiding the Begdelies, we hired a Guide, who con-
ducted us a by-way. We travelled North North Eaſt,
over a deſert Ground; and came in three hours to a ſmall
Rivulet called Sejour, which falls into the Euphrates
about


to the River Euphrates, &c. 155
bolus. This
banks of up the water, po
about three hours below Ferabolus. In about two hours
more we came to a fine fruitful Plain covered with ex-
traordinary Corn, lying between the Hills and the River
Euphrates. In about an hour and half's travelling thro'
this Plain on the banks of the River, we came to Jera-
bolus. This place is of a ſemicircular figure, its flat Gide
lying on the banks of Euphrates; on that ſide it has a
high long Mount, cloſe by the water, very ſteep. It was
anciently built upon (and at one end of it, I ſaw frag-
ments of) very large Pillars, a yard and half diameter,
and Capitals and Corniſhes well carved. At the foot of
the Mount was carved on a large ſtone a Bealt reſem-
bling a Lion, with a bridle in his Mouth; and I be-
lieve anciently a Perſon ſitting on it: but the ſtone is
in that part now broke away; the Tail of the Beaſt was
Couped
Round about this place are high banks caſt up, and
there are the footſteps of walls on them. The gates ſeem
to have been well built: the whole was 2250 paces, that
is yards, in circumference. The River is here as large as
the Thames at London; a long bullet-gun could not ſhoot
a ball over it, but it drop into the water. Here is found
a large Serpent which has legs and claws, called Woralla.
I was told by a Turk, that a little below this place, when
the River is low, may be ſeen the Ruins of a Scone-bridge
cover the River: for my own part I ſaw it not, nor do I
much rely on the Turk's Veracity. The River ſeem'd
to be lately fallen very ſuddenly; for the banks were
freſhly wet, two yards and more above the water. It was
here North and South.
Friday, April 27,
We kept cloſe on the banks of Euphrates, and in two
hours and a half croſſed a fine Rivulet callid Towzad;
and in two hours more arrived over againſt Beer, and
pitched on a Flat, cloſe by the River ſide. Obſerving
the Latitude of the place by my Quadrant, I found the
Angle between the Sun and the Zenith to be twenty two
U 2
degrees;


156 The Author's Journey from Aleppo
degrees; and the declination this Day being 15 degrees
10 minutes, the whole is 37 degrees io minutes.
Saturday, April 22,
We continued at our Station, not daring to croſs the
River, for fear of falling into the hands of the Chiah of
the Baſhaw of Urfa, who was then at Beer ordering many
Boats of Corn down to Bagdal. We were ſupplied at the
ſame time with proviſions by Sheck Aſyne, to whom we
made returns.
Sunday, April 23.
The Chiah being now departed, Sheck Alyne invited
us over to Beer: We croſſed in a Boat of the Country,
of which they have a great many, this being the great
Paſs into Meſopotamia. The Boats are of a miſerable Fa-
brick, flat and open in the forepart, for Horſes to enter:
They are large enough to carry about four Horſes each.
Their way to croſs is, by drawing up the Boat as high as
they know to be neceſſary; and then with wretched Oars
ſtriking over, Me falls a good way down by the force of
the Stream, before they arrive at the further ſide.
Having ſaluted Afyne, we were conducted to ſee the
Caſtle; which is a large old Building on the top of a great
long Rock, ſeparated by a great gulph or natural bottom,
from the land. At firſt coming within the Gates which
are of Iron, we ſaw ſeveral large Globes of Stone about
twenty inches diameter; and great Axles of Iron, with
wheels, which were intire blocks of wood two foot thick
in the Nave, and cut ſomewhat to an edge toward the
Periphery; and Screws to bend Bows or Engines; as alſo
ſeveral Braſs Field Pieces.
Aſcending up the ſides of the Rock by a way cut ob-
liquely, you come to the Caſtle. At firit entrance, you
find a way cut under ground down to the River. In the
Caſtle, the principal things we ſaw, were, firit a large
Room full of old Arms: I ſaw there Glaſs Bottles to be
Ahot at the end of Arrows; one of them was ſtuck at the
end


· to the River Euphrates, &c. 157
end of an Arrow, with four pieces of Tin by its ſides, to
keep it firm: Vaſt large Croſs-Bows, and Beams, ſeem-
ingly deſign'd for Battering-Rams; and Roman Saddles
and Head Pieces of a large ſize; ſome of which were
painted; and ſome large Thongs for Bow-ſtrings, and
Bags for ſinging Stones. But the Jealouſy of the Turks
would not permit us to ſtay ſo long, as would have been
requiſite for a perfect examination of theſe Antiquities.
From the Caſtle we returned to Alyne, and were ci-
villy treated. In the Evening we went up into the Coun-
try of Meſopotamia. The Hills are Chalky and Steep;
and come cloſe to the Water fide without a Plain inter-
vening, as it is upon the ſide of Syria; ſo that Beer ſtands
on the ſide of a Hill. However it has a couple of fine
Streams that run over the top of the Hill; one of which
drives two Mills, and ſo runs down to the City, which
is well walled. In the ſide of the Hill, there is a Kane
under ground cut into the Rock, with fifteen large Pil-
lars left to ſupport its Roof.
Monday, April 24,
We left Beer, and, travelling Weſt, came in three hours
to Nizib, a place well ſituated at the Head of the Towzad.
Here is an old ſmall Church, very Itrong and entire ;
only the Cupola in the middle of the croſs is broke down,
and its ſpace covered with Leaves, to fit the place for
a Moſque. I believe the Turks made the places to which
they turn in Prayers, empty Niches, to Thew that they
worſhipped one Inviſible God not to be repreſented by
Images. In two hours we came from Nizib to a good
Chriſtian Village called Vwur; and in an hour and half
more, to a Well in the Deſarr.
Tueſday, April 25,
We travelled Welt near two hours; and came through
a fine Country diverſified into ſmall Hills and Valleys,
to a Village called Adjia, having left Silam and two
other Villages on the right hand. At Adjia riſes the
River


to the River Euphrates, &c. 159
but watered every where with fine Springs and Rivulets.
In about ſix hours we came to Corus; our Courſe was
South Weſt, having croſſed the Ephreen about two thirds
of an hour before. Juſt by Corus is the River Sabon,
that is, Chor or Char, which encompaſſes moſt part of
the City. . .
Corus ſtands on an Hill, conſiſting of the City and
Caſtle. The City ſtands Northerly; and from its North
end aſcending, you come at laſt to a higher Hill to the
Southward, on which ſtands the Caſtle. The whole is
now in Ruins, which ſeems to have been very large, wal-
led very ſtrongly with huge ſquare Scones. Within are
obfervable the Ruins, Pillars, &c. of many noble Build-
ings. On the Weſt ſide there is a ſquare Encloſure of
great Capacity, compaſſed with good Walls and five
Gates, which admitted into it; as one may diſcern by
the Ruins of them. I conjectured they might be the
Cathedral. Over the Caſtle Gate were written the three
Inſcriptions in the Plate belonging to page 7.
The middle Inſcription was over the middle of the
Portal; the other two on the top of the Pilaſters on the
right and left hand.
Below the Caſtle Hill, to the Southward, ſtands a noble
old Monument. It is ſix ſquare, and opens åt fix Win-
dows above; and is covered with a Pyramidical Cupola.
In each Angle within is a Pillar of the Corinthian Or-
der, of one Itone; and there is a fine Architrave all round
juſt under the Cupola, having had heads of Oxen carved
on it; and it ends a-top with a large Capital of the Co-
rinthian Order: near this ſeveral Sepulchral Altars, of
which only one has a legible Inſcription, which you may
ſee in the Plate.
Friday, April 28,
We left Corus, and without the Town about half a
mile South Eaſt, we deſcended down through a way cut
obliquely on the ſide of a Precipice, which leads to a
Bridge of ſeven Arches of a very old Structure, over the
River


160 The Authors Journey from Aleppo &c.
River Sabon. And about a quarter of a mile further, we
came to another Bridge of three very large Arches over
the River Ephreen. Theſe Bridges are very ancient, and
well built of ſquare ſtone. Theſe Pillars have an Acute
Angle on the ſide againſt the Stream, and a round But-
treſs on the other ſide, and on both ſides are Niches for
Statues. They were well paved a-top with large Stones,
and are doubtleſs, as well as that of the other ſide of
the Town, the Work of the Excellent and Magnificent
Theodorit.
From this Bridge in about three hours, with a Courſe
South South Eaſt or South Eaſt and by South, we arrived
at fan-Bolads. From fan-Bolads to Chillis is one hour
and two thirds, Courſe North North Eaſt. Chillis is a
large populous Town, and has fifteen Moſques that may
be counted without the Town: and it has large Bazars.
Many Medals are found here, which ſeem to argue it to
be ancient; but under what Name I know not.
Aleppo bears from fan-Bolads South and by Eaſt; Seck-
Berukel South South Weſt. An hour from Jan-Bolads is
Azaſs. And two hours further, we lodged in the Plain,
which about Chillis and Azars is very wide, and no leſs
fruitful. This Country is always given to the Validea
or Grand-Signior's Mother.
Saturday, April 29,
We arrived, by God's Bleſſing, ſafe in Aleppo; having
travelled about five hours with a Courſe South and by
Eaſt.
Abža @em.


i
[161]
Of the VALLEY
OF ..
SALT
Which is about Four Hours from
... A L E P P 0.
.THIS Valley is of two or three Hours Extent; we
1 were three quarters of an Hour in crolling one
Corner of it. It is of an exact Level, and appears at a
diſtance like a Lake of Water. There is a kind of a dry
Cruſt of Salt all over the top of it; which ſounds, when
the Horſes go upon it, like frozen Snow, when it is walk'd
upon. There are three or four ſmall Rivulets empty
themſelves into this place, and waſh it all over about
Autumn, or when the Rains fall.
In the heat of the Summer the Water is dried off, and
when the Sun has ſcorched the ground, there is found
remaining the Cruſt of Salt aforeſaid; which they gather
and ſeparate into ſeveral Heaps, according to the degrees
of fineneſs; Some being exquiſitely White, Others al-
loy'd with Dirt.
It being ſoft in ſome places, our Horſes hoofs ſtruck
in deep : And there I found in one part a ſoft brown
Clay, in another a very black one, which to the Taſte
was very Salt, tho’deep in the Earth. Along on one side
of the Valley, viz. that towards Gibul, there is a ſmall
Precipice about two Men's lengths, occalion'd by the
continual taking away the Salt; and in this you may fee
X
how


( 165 )
se
124
of Greeks, callid Bell.
his Reaſon for
Mount
'27 turning Day into Night 43
of Greeks, call’d the - his Grovc ibid.
Holy Croſs
94 Figures of Men, carved in the
- Oozier
. 35
natural Rock
Sydonaija 130 Fiſſure, a very Deep One in
Corn, the Eaſtern Manner of the Earth
Gathering it in Harveſt 144 Font, us'd by the Apoſtles 98
Court, 55 Yards Square, cut Fountain of the Apoſtles 98
in the natural Rock 20
- Ayn il Hadede 140
Crutches us'd by the Prieſts at
- Ayn il Hawra 134
Divine Service
Ainbus Lee 119
of Eliſha
80
of Kiſhon 125
Damaſcus, its pleaſant Situa-
of Selee
tion, &c.
- of the Bleſſed Vir.
the Gardens, and · gin
53. 102
theManner of viſiting them 130 Fruit call’d Za-cho-ne reinark.
Water'd by the Ri able for its Healing Quality 86
• ver Barrady
: 122
David's Well
90
the Place where He
flew Goliah
92
Garden Walls at Damaſcus,
deſcribed
80.83
Dead Sea
the Quality of its
Gate of the Temple wall'd up
Water
84
by the Turks, and why 103
Defart, where our Saviour was
Gethſemane
105
· Tempted by the Devil 79
George (St) and the Dragon,
Diké, a large one, cut in the
the Place where they Duellid 38
-Rock 30 Yards over, and
Goads of Oxen, of an extra- ,,
more than a Furlong long,
ordinary Gze
110
near the Serpent Fountain 20
Good-Friday, how obſerv'd .
Dolorous Way
by the Latins at Jeruſalem 69
Doors of Stone very remark-
Granite, ſeveral Pillars of it
able
15. 16. 31. 42. 43. 112.
" Grott of the Bleſſed Virgin,
an Account of the White-.
Elias his Stone Bed
neſs of it.
Elizabeth the Mother of St Grottos two Hundred, cut in
John, her Houſe
93 the Gde of a Rock US
Emir Chibly encamp'd upon the
All Tranſactions rela-
Road, robs Travellers 58. 111 ted in the Goſpels, ſaid to
Eunuch of Æthiopia, where be done in Grottos 114
Baptized by Philip . 92
124
107
:. 91
•
H
Faccardine, Prince of the
Druſes, his Palace 39
Hadgees, the Manner of their
ſetting out on their Pilgri.
mage to Mecca
*127
Hermon,


[ 166 ]
62
for Shipping
Helinon, the Dew of it 57
on two Pillars of
Herod's Gate at Jeruſalemn 78 Granite, lying croſs the
Holy Fire, a Ceremony on Road
Eaſter Eve
94 Joachiin and Anna, Parents of
the Peoples great the Bleſſed Virgin, their
Opinion of it 96.97 Houſe
117
Land begins
45 John Baptiſt (St) his Cave 92
- Sepulcher profaned 108
Beheaded at Se-
Horſe falls through the Bridge baſta
at Caluineer
- his Head kept in
a Church at Dainaſcus 126
I
Joſeph Sold by his Brethren
at Dothaim
. 116
Jacob's Well
his Sepalcher 62
jaines (St) where Beheaded 98 the Ground given him
Jebilee, its Situation i3 by his Father Jacob
63
Anciently convenient Joſeph (St) his Houſe where
Our Saviour liv'd 113
Remains of a Noble
his Chapel
87
Theater there
ibid. Judas, the place where He
Jehoſaphat, the Turks Tradi Hanged Himſelf
102
tion concerning a Pillar
the place where He Be-
near his Valley
103 trayed his Maſter 106
Jeremiah the Prophet's Place
of Reſidence, and Bed 76
the Dungeon where
he was kept by Zedekiah 78 Kanes, Lodging Places for
Jeruſalem, Cercinonies at en.
Travellers
tring the City
One cut into a Rock
in the Circuit of it
at Beer
Meaſured
109 Kiſhon, the Brook 57.115
the ſeveral Ceremo-
nies obſerv'd there on Good
L
Friday, and Eaſter Day, re-
lating to our Sariour's Cru. Lake Limone
139
cifixion
72. 73 &c. or Sea of Rooge
Impaling, the Manner of that Lazarus his Caſtle and Sepul-
Puniſhment
141 cher
79
Inns, none to be found on Locuſts
61.92
the Roads in Turky 2 Lycus River
Inſcription to the Meinory of
the Emperour Antoninus 37
M
on the Fountain at
Balbeck
139 Mandrakes
- over a Cate at Be- Manuſcript of the Teſtament
root
42 in Syriack 800 years old
i over the Caſtle Gate Marine, near Tripoli
at Corus
159 Mark (St) his Houſe
Marks
3
Sepol
98
31


| 167
35
79
100
Marks of the Croſs &ic. on the
where the Swine ran
Arms of Pilgriins, the Man- . down into the Sea
IIS
ner of making them 75
- of Arabia
Maronites, exacting and in- .
- of Gilboab 119
folent
- of Gilead. ?.. 66
Mary Magdalen, her Habita-
ir of Paleſtine 65
tion
the Houſe where ſhe'
N : .
waſhed our Saviour's Feet 108
Mary the Virgin, where Born 108 Neceres, a ſtrange and fin- -.
her Annunciation 112 gular People
her Aſſumption 105 Neheiniah, his Well 102
a Story of her Girdle ibid. Nicephorus (St) a Story con-
the Place where ſhe was cerning his Beard -40
warned of her Death 104 Nox Tenebrofa, Good Friday
the place where ſhe Dyed 100 night, ſo called by the Law ;
the Place where ſhe Sao'' tins at Jeruſalein
72
luted Elizabeth - 92 Nuns, disfigure their Faces,
- her Corps arreſted by a ... to avoid the Beftialities of
Jew
the Souldiers ; $5
- her Sepulcher
106
Miracle, relațed of a Pi&ture
of the Virgin Mary : 151
Monument, '&t Corus 159 Orange Garden. 'at Beroot 40
Moſques, fifteen at Chillis 160
Mount of the Beatitudes 115
Calvary
Carinel
54. Paflengers impos'd upon by
- Gerizim and Ebal 39 thoſe who affift them at the
Gihon
108 Rivers
Moriah .68. 100. 106 Paul (St) the Place of his Vic
Olivet
79. 105 lion, &c. And where He
Saron
53 "was let down in a Basket 129
Şion
1or the Houſe where He'.
Tabor and Hermon • lodged at Damaſcus 133
57. 113. 115 Peter St) his Priſon
98
Mountains of Caſtravan and
the Place where He
Climax
35 Wept after Denying his
– of the Franks 22
100
of Libanus, and Pidgeons, great Numbers of
, Anti-Libanus 119. 139. 140 them at Kefteen
of Occaby
6
One put into the
of Offence 102 Cupola of the Holy Sepul-
of Precipitation 116 cher, to repreſent the Holy
of Quarantania, froin Ghoſt
. 96
whence the Devil Inewed Pilate, his Palace
his Dalaice
106
Our Saviour the Kingdoms Pilgriins, at Eaſter guarded
of the World
80 froin Jeruſalem to Jordan 78
Diſturbed
.....
P.
:
68


[ 168 ]
16
85
8
53. 117
34
117
Diſturbed in their
lobar
Devotions there: 83 --Jordan
- their Feet walh'd by -- Kilhon
the Father Guardian
Letane
. 119. 120
Pillar of Lot's Wife
Lycus or Canis 35
Plain of Acra
-- Nahor Abrolh, or Le.”
of Efdraelon 57. III. IIS pers River
- of Galilee :
115 - Nahor Acchar ibid.
of Jericho
66.80 - -- Nahor Huſſine. 18
of Junia
24
-- Nahor Kelp
36
of Tripoli
142 - Nahor il Kibber, or
of Zabulon
the Great River
Potters Field
Nahor il Melech, or
Preſents, to be ſent when you the King's River
intend à Viſit to the Turks 26 --- Orontes, its Water
Princes Bridge, ſuppos'd to be and Fiſh unwholſome . 4
built byGodfrey of Bulloign 26 -- Sabon, Chor or Char 159
Promontory, ſuppos'd to be --- Sejour 154. 158
mention'd by Strabo
--Towzad
155
Promontory (White)
Rivulets, the Manner of
Pulpit, of Tortoiſe Shell and Cleanſing them at Dama-
Mother of Pearl
Icus
124
Road cut on the ſide of the
White Promontory . 52
Quails
S
101
32
.
5
61
Rachel's Tomb
87 Sand, a Material for making
Rivers Abana and Pharpar, Glaſs
- 56.57
fuppos'd to be Branches of Sea of Tiberias
s
the Barrady
123 Seditions ſown by the Turks:
of Aleppo ariſes froin among the Wild People 56.
a Fountain
158 Sepulchers hewn into the Rock 14
Awle, near Sidon 44
of the Kings' 76
Ayn Yentloe 125
- the Doors of them
Barrady 121. 134 very ſurprizing
77
Belus
56
of the Prophets 104
Beroot
. . 38
-- of the Virgin Mary,.
Caſımeer 24. 48. 120 St Anna, and St Joſeph 103
- the Cold Waters 24 - with lix Statues, and ...
Damer or Tamyras 43 Inſcriptions : 132
- Eleutherus 24. 48. 120 Sepulchral Monuments, very ..
Ephreen
Large
Euphrates
Serpent Fountain : 20.24
- Ibrahim Baſſa, ſuppos’d" Sheck's Houſe, a Burying.is
to be the River Adonis, its Place
Water of a Bloody Colour
Wife, a Deep Fiſſure
at certain Seaſons , 34 in the Earth
Shepherds
158
21.
155
Serpen


[ 170]
143
IOI
of Bocat or Bicath-Aven 119
-- of Canobine
L of Elah
92 Wilderneſs and Convent of
- of Hinnom
St John
91, 92
- of Jehoſaphat 78. 102. 10 · Water and Fiſh in the River
of Rephaim
Orontes, very Unwholſome 4
of Sali
- of Sychein
Vaults, ſeveral very Large at
the foot of Mount Moriah 100 Zaccheus, his Houſe
Twelve, in Memory of Zachary, his Sepulcher
the Apoſtles
104 Zebedee, his Houſe
98
Viſit the manner ofitin Turkey 29
161
.
Z
59
-
8
CITIES, Towns, and VILLAGES,
Mentioned in the Journey.
117
117
57
160
153
134
64
159
115
A Camy
53 Botrus and Byblus
33
Achzib
Calleinone
32
Acra
Cana of Galilee
Adjia
Canobine
142
Antab
158 Caphar-Milki
119
Arab
58 Carmel
Arvad and Arphad
Caſtravan.
ibid
Ayta
120 Caypha
Azaſs
160 Chillis
Bab
Citte-Galle
Balbeck
120. Cinga
Bambych
153 Corus
Baneas
17 Daberah
Barfeba
Damaſcus
119. 122
Be-da-ine
Deinas
121
Beer
Dioceſaria
119
Bell-maez
Dothaim
Bellulca
Dyn il Daab
Berook
Eden
119. 142
Beroot or Berytus
Endor
Beſack
Engedi
88
Bethany
79 Efloyn
Bethlehem
Geeb
Bethulia
115 Gibul in the Valley of Sale 162
Bezay
153 Gibyle
Bird and Coney Iſlands í Hadyar ib Sultane, or Sultan's
Bocat or Bicath-Aven 119 Stone:
Booteſhellah
91 Harbanooſe
Howar
64. 156
116
153
II
64


[ 171 ]
12
160
Howar
Hozano
Jan-Bolads
Jebilee
Teneen
Tib ſeneen
Jerabolus
Jericho
Jeruſalemn
Jordan
Julia Felix
Keffre
Kefteen
Kor Aren
Ko-ri-e
Latichea
Leban or Lebonah
Lediff
Legene
Legune
Maday
Meneen
Merakia
Melhgarah
Meſopotamia
Michinas
Modon
Nain
Naploſa
Nazareth
Nizib
Oo-rem
Ortholia
Patrone
Philip (St)
Ptoleinais
Rama
Rooge
63 Roſelayn
Ź Ruad, ſuppoſed to be Arvad
160 and Arphad
Samaria
in Saphet
120 Sarphan or Sarepta
155 Satyra
81 Sawee
66.86 Sebaſta
81 Seck-Berukel
38 Selwid
64
2 Sepharia
ibid. Sherack
120 Shoggle
48 Sholfatia
II Shuckfoat
63 Sidon
44. 117
153 Silain
2 Siloe
102
57 Sinie
134 Solhees
131 Sophia
18 Sodom
119 Sultan's Stone
157 Surbaſs
64 Surgawich
92 Sychem or Sychar
59
115 Tall
13C
59 Tekoah
57. 112 Te-ne-ree
157 Tortoſa
2 Tripoli
25. 141
18 Tyre
33 Uwur
157
92 Uzzi
120
Ye-ad
58. 66 Zib
13
133
122
I
30*2********
139
FINI S.











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