Summary of your 'study carrel' ============================== This is a summary of your Distant Reader 'study carrel'. The Distant Reader harvested & cached your content into a collection/corpus. It then applied sets of natural language processing and text mining against the collection. The results of this process was reduced to a database file -- a 'study carrel'. The study carrel can then be queried, thus bringing light specific characteristics for your collection. These characteristics can help you summarize the collection as well as enumerate things you might want to investigate more closely. This report is a terse narrative report, and when processing is complete you will be linked to a more complete narrative report. Eric Lease Morgan Number of items in the collection; 'How big is my corpus?' ---------------------------------------------------------- 46 Average length of all items measured in words; "More or less, how big is each item?" ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 2485 Average readability score of all items (0 = difficult; 100 = easy) ------------------------------------------------------------------ 87 Top 50 statistically significant keywords; "What is my collection about?" ------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24 stitch 16 thread 13 material 13 Fig 10 edge 9 fabric 8 cut 6 sewing 6 seam 6 place 6 pattern 6 color 5 work 5 wool material 5 wool 5 silk 5 inch 5 garment 5 cotton material 5 cotton 5 clothing 4 waist 4 needle 4 hand 4 good 4 finish 4 dress 4 cotton fiber 3 weave 3 textile fiber 3 textile 3 skirt 3 sewing machine 3 seam edge 3 machine 3 linen 3 line 3 heavy cotton cloth 3 french seam 3 figure 3 cotton warp 3 cotton lace 3 collar 3 cloth 3 chapter 3 United States 2 year 's sewing 2 yard 2 wool cloth 2 width Top 50 lemmatized nouns; "What is discussed?" --------------------------------------------- 4916 edge 4907 stitch 4552 thread 4488 side 4160 material 4039 seam 3680 line 3609 inch 2689 cotton 2447 pattern 2431 garment 2417 cloth 2361 fabric 2226 piece 2211 needle 2127 silk 1933 lace 1921 end 1764 point 1760 work 1717 hand 1715 child 1678 wool 1677 dress 1670 sewing 1531 machine 1530 color 1503 skirt 1447 hem 1445 place 1400 time 1394 sleeve 1371 figure 1298 linen 1277 part 1271 length 1244 way 1172 width 1162 waist 1155 fiber 1139 measure 1119 design 1035 water 1009 front 1003 top 969 method 968 clothing 956 collar 949 yarn 949 lining Top 50 proper nouns; "What are the names of persons or places?" -------------------------------------------------------------- 1362 Fig 525 Mark 509 hem 358 Ill. 349 C 331 A 310 | 262 Stitch 251 _ 235 II 211 States 211 Ans 204 Plain 200 United 193 F 191 ing 182 Seam 177 B 174 D 173 School 169 Hem 161 • 159 III 152 J 144 Cotton 144 C. 143 gore 137 New 136 D. 118 Silk 115 FIG 114 England 111 Wool 111 IV 110 S. 110 M. 109 F. 107 Bias 106 Sleeve 104 LESSON 102 NEEDLEWORK 102 India 101 Miss 100 French 97 France 97 E. 97 Clothing 96 T 96 M 94 China Top 50 personal pronouns nouns; "To whom are things referred?" ------------------------------------------------------------- 10256 it 2920 you 2179 they 1490 them 932 i 901 we 736 she 661 he 307 one 285 him 189 her 181 us 141 itself 88 themselves 79 yourself 74 herself 72 himself 67 me 66 hem 19 ourselves 10 's 9 yours 7 myself 7 mine 7 hers 5 ex- 3 pos- 3 oneself 2 theirs 2 neces- 2 his 2 be- 1 ’s 1 yº 1 yes- 1 ya 1 withal 1 wherethey 1 weave.—in 1 w- 1 ure 1 u 1 tc 1 suc- 1 sheep,1 1 s 1 patch.-the 1 ofi 1 over-firm 1 organzine Top 50 lemmatized verbs; "What do things do?" --------------------------------------------- 43713 be 8085 make 6081 use 5069 have 3011 cut 2660 do 2314 take 1799 turn 1719 give 1638 baste 1533 stitch 1490 see 1487 draw 1441 show 1358 place 1250 hold 1211 sew 1181 finish 1076 weave 1005 put 953 come 947 run 915 wear 886 leave 882 fold 858 work 835 press 818 keep 798 remove 766 mark 765 find 748 desire 730 follow 713 bring 693 call 685 require 683 allow 668 cover 662 fit 650 pin 636 begin 634 need 624 add 605 know 594 form 580 apply 577 fasten 547 e 541 join 523 trim Top 50 lemmatized adjectives and adverbs; "How are things described?" --------------------------------------------------------------------- 3944 not 1954 right 1845 then 1778 very 1766 other 1741 out 1711 more 1640 well 1505 up 1482 same 1475 first 1445 good 1416 long 1412 back 1362 together 1195 as 1163 small 1103 so 1087 in 1079 also 1058 many 1040 straight 1029 much 976 down 971 large 965 wide 965 plain 955 wrong 918 too 918 little 915 only 896 fine 888 even 867 such 844 low 838 often 830 usually 790 great 775 most 747 raw 736 necessary 674 always 668 short 665 soft 662 heavy 646 possible 608 white 593 sometimes 592 narrow 585 new Top 50 lemmatized superlative adjectives; "How are things described to the extreme?" ------------------------------------------------------------------------- 505 good 177 most 132 first 94 least 79 great 64 Most 62 fine 58 high 49 simple 33 early 31 large 30 full 23 wide 22 low 21 small 14 strong 14 slight 14 easy 13 long 12 coarse 11 old 11 cheap 9 near 9 bad 8 soft 8 pretty 8 late 7 short 7 pure 7 poor 7 new 7 heavy 6 farth 5 fin 5 quick 5 dark 5 dainty 4 young 4 tiny 4 plain 4 nice 4 common 3 wise 3 safe 3 narrow 3 mild 3 handsome 2 sure 2 smart 2 sad Top 50 lemmatized superlative adverbs; "How do things do to the extreme?" ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 598 most 61 well 34 least 12 first 3 highest 3 farthest 2 lowest 2 long 2 greatest 1 near 1 -q 1 # Top 50 Internet domains; "What Webbed places are alluded to in this corpus?" ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Top 50 URLs; "What is hyperlinked from this corpus?" ---------------------------------------------------- Top 50 email addresses; "Who are you gonna call?" ------------------------------------------------- Top 50 positive assertions; "What sentences are in the shape of noun-verb-noun?" ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16 pattern is too 9 fabric does not 9 material is not 8 stitch is also 7 edges turned in 7 garment is too 7 material does not 7 material is very 7 silk does not 7 thread is not 6 fabric is heavy 6 garment does not 6 pattern is not 6 skirt is too 6 stitches do not 6 thread held down 6 threads are not 6 threads taken up 5 cloth is not 5 cotton does not 5 cotton is often 5 edge is then 5 edges are not 5 fabric is not 5 garment is very 5 machine does not 5 seam comes directly 5 seams are not 5 stitch is sometimes 5 stitch is usually 5 stitch is very 5 stitches are often 5 work is not 4 child does not 4 cloth does not 4 cloth is then 4 edges are even 4 edges turned under 4 lace is sometimes 4 lace is too 4 laces are not 4 machine stitch close 4 material has not 4 material is more 4 material is soft 4 material is then 4 material is usually 4 needle is not 4 place cut out 4 seam is more Top 50 negative assertions; "What sentences are in the shape of noun-verb-no|not-noun?" --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2 edge has no notch 2 edges are not objec- 2 lace having no net 2 lace is not much 2 laces are not always 2 laces are not cheap 2 material is not wide 2 materials are not alike 2 needle is not too 2 sewing is not merely 1 child does not merely 1 child is not able 1 children are not alike 1 cloth is not necessary 1 cloth is not so 1 cloth is not very 1 cloths are not usually 1 color is not so 1 colors are not so 1 cotton have not fully 1 cotton is not so 1 cotton is not too 1 edges are not selvedges 1 fabric is not available 1 fabric is not bulky 1 fabric is not con- 1 fabric is not strong 1 garment are not alike 1 garment has no placket 1 garment having no decorative 1 garment is no different 1 garment is not double 1 garment is not well 1 garments are not only 1 line was not so 1 machine is not threaded 1 material does not easily 1 material is not alike 1 material is not long 1 material is not pure 1 material is not strong 1 material is not too 1 materials are not apt 1 materials do not com- 1 materials is not wise 1 pattern having no sleeves 1 pattern is not always 1 pattern is not necessary 1 seams are not economical 1 seams are not satisfactory Sizes of items; "Measures in words, how big is each item?" ---------------------------------------------------------- 123477 chi.35071335 109838 mdp.39015064400016 79052 wu.89041963299 78921 coo.31924094663881 72058 wu.89041962861 69978 coo.31924003596800 54575 coo.31924089618429 53512 hvd.32044102873395 43995 wu.89005203120 38696 hvd.32044028547834 38356 hvd.32044028628956 33898 uiuc.2303818_001 33769 iau.31858047589241 30024 umn.31951000946266u 29468 umn.319510003935669 22980 hvd.32044029091154 22976 hvd.32044102872686 21757 hvd.hn1xkm 20043 hvd.32044055076889 18281 wu.89047192950 15134 hvd.32044102872702 12980 osu.32435005592290 11494 uiug.30112070405771 11480 hvd.32044029047388 10655 umn.31951p00354191b 10144 nyp.33433006771780 8148 osu.32435000773051 8106 hvd.rslduq 7291 hvd.rslzal 4453 wu.89041963224 3635 hvd.rsmatc 3618 uva.x030488021 2981 wu.89099177321 2608 mdp.39015029922765 1928 uc1.b4583659 1276 uc1.b4583658 1079 uva.x030487816 1038 uc1.b4583660 921 wu.89038445011 882 inu.30000112110808 683 inu.30000112110816 649 uva.x030376714 498 coo.31924003594854 479 mdp.39015086544916 435 uiug.30112062238453 uiug.30112019311973 Readability of items; "How difficult is each item to read?" ----------------------------------------------------------- 99.0 uva.x030376714 99.0 wu.89038445011 96.0 hvd.rsmatc 95.0 hvd.32044102872686 94.0 hvd.32044102872702 94.0 hvd.rslzal 93.0 osu.32435005592290 92.0 hvd.32044102873395 92.0 uc1.b4583658 92.0 uiug.30112062238453 92.0 uva.x030487816 91.0 hvd.32044029091154 91.0 inu.30000112110808 91.0 mdp.39015029922765 91.0 wu.89047192950 90.0 coo.31924089618429 90.0 hvd.32044029047388 90.0 hvd.rslduq 90.0 uc1.b4583659 90.0 umn.31951p00354191b 90.0 wu.89099177321 89.0 uiug.30112070405771 88.0 uc1.b4583660 88.0 wu.89041963299 87.0 umn.319510003935669 87.0 umn.31951000946266u 87.0 wu.89005203120 85.0 coo.31924003596800 85.0 hvd.hn1xkm 84.0 iau.31858047589241 83.0 hvd.32044028628956 83.0 hvd.32044055076889 83.0 wu.89041962861 83.0 wu.89041963224 82.0 coo.31924094663881 81.0 uva.x030488021 80.0 mdp.39015064400016 80.0 osu.32435000773051 79.0 chi.35071335 78.0 mdp.39015086544916 77.0 nyp.33433006771780 75.0 inu.30000112110816 74.0 hvd.32044028547834 63.0 coo.31924003594854 102.0 uiuc.2303818_001 uiug.30112019311973 Item summaries; "In a narrative form, how can each item be abstracted?" ----------------------------------------------------------------------- chi.35071335 large work should usually be done with the goods lying flat on the sewing table. In sewing this seam, the goods should be held between the thumb and first finger of the left hand parallel with the chest, not over the end of finger. The slot seam, used in cloth dresses and jackets, requires exact basting with silk or very fine thread with Try on the skirt and fit the band carefully, marking the seam with pins, a line of basting, or chalk. need never be afraid of basting too much or too carefully: Economize cloth and time in cutting, but use Unfortunate is the child whose clothing is too good to play in. as muscles grow by exercise, every time the baby succeeds in getting his hands to his mouth as a result of coo.31924003594854 SEAM STRENGTH AND THREAD DURABILITY encountered in the clothing factory on matters referring to thread strength, the durability of seams, and the proper needles that the many new man-made fabrics being introduced in clothing. The problem of stitched seams has always been a matter As new fabrics are daily introduced into the Clothing Industry and as these fabrics contain new fibers with new finishes, the problem of proper seams becomes complex and complicated. and boys'' clothing were made of only the standard wool fabrics and this Report endeavors to show how these new problems may be met in the average clothing plant in view of new fabric finishes, new synthetic fabrics, and new synthetic sewing threads. strength and durability, is the large variety of new fabric finishes which have increased in great numbers in recent years. has been revolutionized by the introduction of these new finishes. coo.31924003596800 To establish the neck line of a collar, pin the waist pattern together at the shoulder seam and lay it flat on a piece upper side of the collar to the front facing, slash the garment and facing seams to the stitching line (about ; inch is a neck-line opening which has a narrow finish like a binding, let the facing extend about ; inch beyond the edge of is sometimes stitched into a seam or on an edge of the garment so that half of it shows on the right side, giving the 2 inches; clip to the seam line and pin the cut edge in place; Mark the desired outside edge line with pins and cut (Fig. 79, E). edge, right sides together, so that the lines of the seam allowance on the garment coincide with the center of the on the seam line, edge-stitch from the right side if desired, coo.31924089618429 Figure 7–To tear across to straighten the end of certain firmly woven cotton fabrics, such as percale, clip the selvage at a crosswise thread. Figure 9–Pin edges to be seamed together with pins placed at right angles Figure 32–To apply gathered piece to ungathered edge, match markings on 2. Insert lower edge of bib front º'' under opening in skirt band wrong sides together, matching centers, pin and baste. 1. Place batting or woolen pieces between two fabric pieces (right sides out) and baste through all thickmesses close to edge. Baste fold to stitching line and blind hem (see figure 30, page 38) so Fig. 85 stitch (see figure 39, page 41) the opposite edge to fabric on wrong side. Cut fabric and a lining from this pattern, allowing %" all around for seams. Lay the lining on the fabric wrong sides together, turn under and pin edges so coo.31924094663881 Often, double-cloth materials are held together by means of catching an occasional weft thread through to the opposite surface, other materials, they may be designated as lace weaves. definitely whether a given fabric is cotton or linen consists in placing a sample in a strong solution of washing soda. 3. Whether made by hand or by machinery, lace is an openwork fabric or network of linen, silk, cotton, or similar threads made In the making of needle-point lace, the design is drawn on parchment, which is kept straight by being stitched to heavy linen. needle-point edge is, in effect, applied to many kinds of machineand hand-made laces. The fine weaves of this lace are suitable as dress trimmings, and term is generally applied to machine-made cotton lace resembling opposite side, and sew the seam edges together with fine overhanding-stitches, using for this purpose silk thread that matches the hvd.32044028547834 (c) Course of study in domestic art for Elementary Schools, Grades 5, 6, 7, 8. (c) Course of study in domestic art for Elementary Schools, Grades 5, 6, 7, 8. Owing to the physical growth and peculiar nervous development of children, a large variety of materials for constructive work As one line of industrial study it is of interest and value, but little children need variety of work and the subjects are so into the domestic-art work of the elementary school into the domestic-art work of the elementary school Christmas children, and the more nearly it is posBlftssible for the domestic-art teacher to relate her work to their life interests, the more effective The course of study should be worked out in connection with the general curriculum and in consultation with the grade teachers and head of the (6) Textile work: weaving, study of materials, evolution of textile industry, properties, uses, dyeing, etc. hvd.32044028628956 cross-stitch, with a loop of tape to hang it up; or a flannel skirt in which stitching, hemming, herringbone, putting on a band, a button-hole and sewing on a Rule.—The stitch is worked from right to left on the edge of a folded better to work the stitch on the wrong side of the material, as it places the seam, fold % inch hem along two adjoining sides of the practice piece, mitering Sew it with one of the strong stitches, such as the stitchingstitch, and then turn the opposite raw edges of the strip just over the seam Use.—A narrow strip of cloth, folded over to cover the plain or gathered raw edges of material and to bind the garment together; a means of place on both right and wrong sides by a fine herring-bone stitch (see directions) over the raw edges of the material. hvd.32044029047388 it up through the second hole in the middle row, bringing the needle out over the thread. Material: A piece of striped gingham or halfbleached muslin; size 6x3 inches, needles No. 8, thread one-half inch which is used for basting hems or seams Materials: Gingham 5 by 18 inches, thread No. 70 (white), needle No. 8. First make a hem on the two long sides of the gingham, teaching the pupil to turn over the edge oneeighth inch, creasing it and then turn the fold down Exercises: A, drawing threads; B, hems; C, hemstitching; D, sewing on tape. Materials: Blue checked gingham cut in two pieces, 6 by 6 and 3 by 3 inches; thread No. 90 (white), Material: Gingham 4 by 5 inches, 4 buttons, No. 8 needle, No. 70 thread (white). loops, and run a thread around the hole, about onefourth of an inch from the edge. hvd.32044029091154 Holding the threaded needle in the right hand, take the other end — Eight threads below make one line of hemming stitches. second line of basting, pass the needle first under four threads, canvas with the needle four threads from the right-hand edge, Ans. To fasten the thread to begin hemming, start two threads from the right-hand edge of the canvas Ans. In basting, oversewing, running, stitching, back-stitching and hemming, the work is The pupil in learning to thread the needle for work on cotton cloth stitched seam, the edges of which are evenly cut and overcast with finger of the left hand, the thumb being directly over the gathering thread; and with a large needle or pin in the right hand, workFig. 39, B. Fig. 44.— Showing how the work is held, and position of needle when hemming edge of band. 6. For sewing the stitched-in patch, what cotton and what needle are hvd.32044055076889 It is of importance to remember, when making buttonholes, to place some stitches across each end of the hole, to It is better to arrange the different parts of a pattern on the goods before using the scissors, as the material is then cut to better advantage ; and, bibs or waists, in order to protect the dress as much as possible; and a quarter of a yard extra of material will make The gores are cut from each side of this bag near the sewing, so that the straight ends of each of them meet in the narrow band; and they should be sewed on three thicknesses of the material, one being placed between the double hemmed piece of the dress material, two or three inches machine or a close " back-stitch" by hand, the most important part is the making of button-holes and sewing on of hvd.32044102872686 Before folding the work, run the needle in and out of the cloth, near cloth, cut in one inch by a thread, then, holding a corner 9. Join the thread, by making a small knot, and concealing it in the seam; or by taking one stitch with the threads of the cloth should be left between the basting and the stitches? — No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a halfyard strip of cotton cloth, doubled and basted. — Cut the slit by a thread of the cloth, onefourth of an inch from the folded edge, and a little longer 2. Holding the wrong side of the cloth towards you, insert the needle from the right side, two or three threads inch on the opposite line, take six running stitches, bringing the needle out a little below the upper line (Fig. 70, b), and leaving an end of the thread to be cut of later. hvd.32044102872702 Holding the threaded needle in the right hand, take the other end basting stitches on canvas, begin at the right-hand edge, the first Ans. To fasten the thread to begin hemming, start two threads from the right-hand edge of the canvas Ans. In basting, oversewing, running, stitching, back-stitching and hemming, the work is The pupil in learning to thread the needle for work on cotton cloth stitched seam, the edges of which are evenly cut and overcast with finger of the left hand, the thumb being directly over the gathering thread; and with a large needle or pin in the right hand, workFig. 39, B. edge, and stitch with No. 50 cotton and No. 9 needle, holding the 6. For sewing the stitched-in patch, what cotton and what needle are Ans. For working buttonholes, No. 50 cotton and No. 9 needle Ans. For sewing a gusset on the sampler, No. 60 cotton and No. 10 needle are used for oversewing, No. 70 hvd.32044102873395 budget, the use of the commercial pattern, the care and repair of clothing, color combinations, and attractiveness in edge of the hem, with a tiny stitch which shows on the right When this stitch has been well learned, it will be possible for the Girls'' Sewing League to make many things. The end of the thread is drawn carefully, and onehalf of an inch allowed to lie on the edge. Miss James helped the Pleasant Valley girls with the patterns. The pattern may say the long line of single perforations is to be placed on the warp threads. This soft crinkly looking material is called cotton material and the pattern, shall we study how cotton cloth is made? bias strip of the same cloth as the skirt, f inch wide; stitch on both turn so as to be \ inch wide finished; stitch on edge, flat. linen materials like the cotton and silk. hvd.hn1xkm If needles and thread are too coarse for the sewing that is being done, the stitches will never look Sewing-thread is made from cotton, linen and silk. material for such garments than to buy cheap cloth Textile study: Examine samples of cotton cloth. thread \ inch from the edge of material. woven cotton cloth, usually 36 inches wide. making materials for clothing. good wool, silk, or linen material, because cotton example, a piece of woolen cloth, sold as an "allwool" material, in which some cotton is used, would In a heavier material the weighting makes the cloth Many of our cotton materials are finished like linen, 5. What kinds of yarn are used in making wool materials? Artificial silk is also used in making dress materials, this the clothing must be neat, made of good materials, of the proper color and design, with the right hvd.rslduq a thread, not too long, of a color as near as possible like the goods, and put on your thimble. stitches on your needle at a time, and a little practice (holding pieces with the left hand), will enable inches wide and twenty-seven inches long, although any pretty piece of goods cut that shape run a line of stitches half an inch inside each row of hemming, which will leave a little narrow opening or casing, for holding the ribbon when you are you come to the two hems, which should just exactly meet, then fasten very tightly, and sew over to try some of the fancy stitches; and as doll children, like real, are always needing new underwear, suppose this time you try making a skirt. where the edge of the hem is marked by the basting thread, throw the silk to the left, set your needles as shown in the picture, and pull through. hvd.rslzal easily, for when making a long stitch in sewing stitch on a line with the straight edge to be hem half an inch wide on all four sides and begin to catch-stitch. notched at the depth the hem is to be made, running it along as you turn over the edge as a guide in a straight line on the right side of the material to the placket at the end. cut from the neck line to lower edge in center of an inch from the edge, and sew with fine running stitches. raw edges of bias fold, baste and sew with fine · an edge and sew with running stitches. other band, double it and baste the edges toWHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW. Sew with hemming stitches. Sew first on the right side with running stitches, turn over the raw edges, and hem making a stitch on the right side of the material, hvd.rsmatc scholar, and with a good supply of basted work on hand, one needle and thread for coarse work, and a finer needle and thread for finer work. spool cotton, thread the needle with the end that No; she should leave a little end of the thread By sewing back two or three stitches. By sewing back two or three stitches. line of the thread and the direction of the stitches may be clearly place through each buttonhole either with lead-pencil dots, basting stitches, or pins. slip the button on the needle and sew through and Katie sewed it, wove the stitches close with needle tue, Katie sewed it, wove the stitches close with needle fine; Katie sewed it, wove the stitches close with needle fine; Katie sewed it, wove the stitches close with needle fine; The School Sewing Practice Cloth graded lessons of the stitches used in plain sewing, with directions iau.31858047589241 thread, lace, and for very fine cotton fabrics is carded. In the rib weave, either the warp or the filling threads run double or more, thus making a corded Canvas—A linen, cotton, silk, or wool cloth of different Drawing For ordinary work, basting threads should be cut In sewing this seam, the goods should be held between the thumb and first finger of the left hand parallel with the chest, not over the end of finger. It is used to finish flannel seams and hems, fasten down linings, opened In cloth or silk this first basting thread should The slot seam, used in cloth dresses and jackets, requires exact basting with silk or very fine thread with button hole and draw it over an inch beyond the opposite one and fasten securely by two lines of stitching seams should be stitched in the line of basting, for a inu.30000112110808 Fig. 23.— Gathering and Sewing on Ruffle with Rolled Edge. edges on the right side of the cloth in the pattern selected. Turn to the wrong side and cut the cloth through the middle, Turn back with the folded edge in line 2 inches from the edge and turn 2 inches from the folded edge and In cutting out the right side of the front, place the pattern with the notch in the neck edge, and sleeve facings with the line of four perforations (••••) lengthwise of the cloth. and turn under the edges as indicated in Fig. 43. edges of the cuffs, right sides together, with a small seam. Turn right side out and baste the seamed edge flat. outside of the cuff to the gathered edge of the sleeve, the middle of the cuff at the seam inside, and the ends even with the edges inu.30000112110816 OUTLINE OF A COURSE IN ELEMENTARY in the course, Elementary Clothing and Handivork, scheduled in intended to serve as an outline for students following this course The course includes the following topics: Use and care of seams by hand and machine; drafting and adaptation of patterns; As planned, the course is not suitable for use, as a whole, in elementary or secondary schools. A. courses, but the proper application, however, School of Education, in the course Household Arts Education more fully in the course Household Arts Design— (a) Suggested materials: Nainsook, Berkeley cambric, 2. Various methods of making,—determined by (a) purpose intended, (b) materials used, (c) time to be spent. BC = 3" or any desired fullness for plait, hem, tucks, Making a night-gown from a shirt-waist pattern; (a) Suggested materials: nainsook, longcloth, Berkeley COURSE IN ELEMENTARY CLOTHING AND HANDWORK 36" wide, cut from a shirt-waist pattern. mdp.39015029922765 from selvage edge on warp and one thread one-half inch from rav The even basting stitch: Place knot on top of seam one-fourth Finish the line of basting by taking two stitches, one over the other on top of seam and do not cut The uneven basting stitch: Place knot on top of seam and take To remove bastings the thread should be cut every few inches. about three stitches over the end of buttonhole and then loop stitching these threads, catching needle into material under the bar of each this seam and catch stitch down each edge. Fold down upper edge of seam one-fourth inch edges of seam back the same way and stitch on right side of material both edges together, stitch on right side and then draw out bastings. Stitch these two seams one-fourth inch from edge, beginning 2 inches above the end of the line of stitching mdp.39015064400016 fibers, such as wool and cotton, could be prepared and twisted such as cotton or wool, a number of parallel threads and twisted In India we find a method of spinning the finest grades of cotton yarn by revolving a thin piece of bamboo in a cup of the warp thread and held together by filling threads, or embroidery in which the hand or machine makes the design on the completed cloth. It is only when the environment and life of the sheep are satisfactory that the important qualities of trueness of breed, soundness of fiber, strength, softness, fineness, length, and pure white —A large number of standard cotton cloths, such as muslins, sheetings, many ginghams, percales, and sheer materials like nainsook, batiste, longcloths, To make cotton cloth look like linen requires much dressing, for the fiber of the former is soft, while flax has body. mdp.39015086544916 Fig. 6.—Double-locked stitch seam probable that with the freedom of movement, which is a characteristic of the under thread of the double-locked stitch, the tensions on the upper and under threads of the seam are more uniformly distributed, thereby causing a higher breaking strength Table 1 shows that cutting one stitching thread at the middle of the seam weakened the double-locked stitch less than it weakened the shuttle stitch. Previous results of tests have shown, all other things being equal, that the resulting tensile strength of the seam is the same when seam of the shuttle stitch. shown that equal test strengths were obtained when specimens sewed by the double-locked stitch. of the double-locked stitch. found that the shuttle-stitch seam was weakened much more than the double-locked stitch and that the pulling out of the threads Photographs of two of these test specimens are shown, nyp.33433006771780 Where a loopstitch, tailor''s tack, or long basting stitch, is desired, would advise a thread 30 inches long. seam, fasten thread by allowing it to run along with the edge under the first five or six stitches made by the new thread—see the needle the desired length of the stitch from the edge of the material; next insert the needle on the right side, holding thread with line and then cut the material, turn over one-fourth of an inch Hand Hemming — Determine width of hem, turn and baste, following same rule as for stitching on machine. has been basted and fitted, press seam open, then cut straight piece Tape to be used for hangers should be sewed on in the following manner: Turn under ends of tape one-half inch, place flat on material that pressing wide open before turning will aid you greatly in getting a smooth edge, while the material will be much easier to stitch osu.32435000773051 More Sales." Many of us, both in management and in merchandising, are trying to get additional volume to offset the greatly increased costs and expenses we are up against right now. too great a gross margin, so that we in the management end of retailing certainly have a job to do to make our store performance and our sales a that exposure of goods better enables customers to sell and to serve themselves (Photograph No. 4, Page 7). the Hecht Company had previously operated with 1450 salespeople in the downtown store only, we reached a point where the best we could do was to maintain to have enough salespeople to handle that volume of sales with case selling. MEMBER: Have you converted your boys'' furnishings department completely to exposed selling in the main store? One of the great contributors to high selling costs is over-spaced departments planned for dramatic effects. osu.32435005592290 a small stitch one eighth of an inch long, carry the a small stitch one eighth of an inch long, carry the the needle one eighth of an inch below the edge or fold; the needle one eighth of an inch below the edge or fold; the cloth one fourth of an inch from the edge; place one half inches from the end place the needle through the seven inches long; white thread No. 70; No. 8 needle; inch stitch on the right side, pass the needle under take a half-inch stitch, pass over two threads, and go five and a half inches wide; turn in the edges a fourth Turn an inch hem at bottom; baste and catch stitch. Stitch these overcast edges together to within three fourths inch of of cloth: stitch, making a fourth inch seam. baste to apron, making a fourth-inch seam; stitch. uc1.b4583658 Bring the thread over the edge and up through the third hole. Bring the thread back through the second hole and up through Take the last two stitches over the first two and cut the thread. Cross-stitch.—Begin in an upper right-hand corner and use the Bring the thread up through the first hole in the lower row. Put the thread back through the second hole in the upper row, Put the thread back through the second hole in lower row, and Turn I inch fold on the long edges. right, take the first stitch through the fold only. the thread to be sewed under the fold with the first three or four thread off to within \ inch of the last stitch and draw this end Take the next stitch with a fresh thread through the hole in the fold to secure the end of the hemming before cutting the thread. uc1.b4583659 The model articles given in this, the second book of "Goodwin''s Course in Sewing," are designed to be of practical utility and inches, long-eyed darning needles and darning cotton of contrasting colors, for practice. Darning for thin place.Begin at the lower right side and work To cut lengthwise of the cloth, follow the warp threads. Finish the two top edges with 1į inch hems. Place a line of running-stitches ] inch above the hemming to form casings for the Baste į inch fold around the edges of the pocket. hemmed edge toward the finished top of the bag. Fig. 20.-Interlaced SEAM for Darning Tear OR JOIning Edges of Heavy Cloth. fine, even stitches and draw the edges close together. -stitches f inch apart, taking up about four threads of the lower end, and bring it out at the edge of the buttonhole. Place the point of the hook about } inch from the finished edge uc1.b4583660 Draw outline of letter required and fill the center with catch-stitching, as shown in the edge with outline-stitch, as shown in letter G, Fig. 8. Fig. 19.-Sewing On Ruffle, Using Edge of GARMENT TO Finish Seam. Fold the extended edge over and hem down in line with sufficient material to form a narrow French felled seam. in sewing on ruffle, shown in Fig. 19. Fig. 27.—Bias Band with PIPING AT Edges. Cut the bias band to finish the top of the flounce, I inches wide The plain band of material may be catch-stitched in same manner as the ribbon, or the turned-in edges stitched by machine. Finish the seams of the sleeves, and gather between the perforations (..), at top and bottom edges. Baste the cuff portions together in same manner as the collar, and bind the turned-over edge hem the inside edge of the cuff over the seam. uiuc.2303818_001 same way of the cloth is sewed to the bottom of the skirt, having the facing the width the hem is to be and on the right side seams have to be taken in to make it right, the good lines which From E on line drawn measure Y2 inch to the right. 7. Cut away the front to a V shaped opening, line b, and finish neck with a large sailor collar. place the pattern on it having the front line on a straight edge Measure on line G-H, from point H, i 3-4 inches. Baste the darts in the front pieces, pinning the waist line first. seam Y2 inch below and above the waist line. Cut a stitch at the waist line near the seam and fasten arm seam draw slanting lines from point T so that the skirt The slant of all the lines to 5 inches below the waist measure uiug.30112019311973 uiug.30112062238453 N any course in sewing, the fundamental stitches and operations pieces of unbleached cloth, sewed with colored thread; and should include hems, patches, One should darn with same color as stocking to while darning is being done. while darning is being done. while darning is being done. while darning is being done. while darning is being done. while darning is being done. while darning is being done. Darn with thread the same color and about the thread of same material, if practicable. gloss of silk makes the darned place more noticeable. In darning, always go under and over edges If tear is straight across or lengthwise, just darn across the tear, being sure to extend the Darn just as in straight darn, except at corner, threads, it should be darned with vertical stitches, All of these darns are done on right side, with Darn with vertical stitches, through uiug.30112070405771 All sewing machines require occasional tension adjustment to suit the stitch to various perfectly even tucks, will stitch the hem a short distance from the edge, will You will find that the Attachment folds the cloth as the machine stitches the After your strip is cut into sections sew the pieces together as shown in C, using the presser 7—The belt may be cut double and stitched %; inch from the edge or it may be rounded Stitch the lace in position with the machine and then turn back the material and make adjusted the most inexperienced operator can sew yards of lace or other material together with Attach the Edge-Stitcher to the machine and adjust for sewing laces together. The bottom of the chemise may be hemmed and the lace and insertion stitched to the edge Turn in V4 inch on the other edge of cuff and stitch to sleeve. umn.319510003935669 refrigerators; care of knives, forks, and spoons, cooking utensils; use of boiling water as a germ destroyer; of sal soda. Place an egg in one pint of boiling water, remove the vessel from the fire, and let it stand, To moisten, if desired, dip the slices quickly into boiling salted water before buttering. with water, sugar, and milk, they contain the food values of night, drain, and cook in boiling salted water until soft; Heat gradually to boiling point, then remove from the water, empty, and fill with fruit while hot. Put two teaspoonfuls sugar in the cavity Bake until tender; mash, pour over one cup boiling water, allow to thin, and cook in enough boiling salted water to cover them. Placing the meat directly in boiling water, to cook, Put the milk, water, butter, sugar, and salt into a mixing Place sugar in water and boil five min.; add lemon juice umn.31951000946266u Diagonal Bastings are slanting stitches used in dressmaking to secure the outside material to its lining, particularly The facing is cut to fit the outline of the lower edge and applied as a false hem, as Method of Finishing Skirt without the facing over and stitch directly on the edge; figures out of pasteboard and working over them, is to baste a piece of canvas or crinoline on the wrong side of the material, and work right through it, cutting the edges of the facing three inches wide, stitching the upper edge of the facing flat to the lining. Place a piece of lining material inside each armhole, turn in the armhole edges threeeighths of an inch and fell them to it. Pin the edges of the slash (Fig. 190 A), remove the lining, baste in the alteration, and outside of each front or back, stitch a seamed edge, and turn the facing over toward the umn.31951p00354191b Cut a piece of cloth twice the width of the desired hem, and sew one edge on the garment in a. The front measurement is taken from the center of back of neck to waist line in front. To find width of top, measure out from 1 foursevenths of band and mark, from this point measure up two and one-half inches to 6, connect 6 with one inch above 2 out one-half of the chest measure, this line will be 5. the width on waist line slanting out one inch. Measure from 3 to 13 onehalf inch and mark from 13 to 14 one-half of hand measurement; 14 is our waist line; 15 is an outward curve three inches down and slanting one waist line to one and one-half inches below it. measure from elbow to arm''s eye, from 4 to 5 always mark up one and one''half inches, from 6 to uva.x030376714 As the size of the community increases the percentage of women making from 1 to 5 kinds of garments for women and for girls over The largest percentages of women making the most different kinds of garments for women and girls were in 10 kinds of garments but causes the greatest variation in the groups In the classification by income the percentage of women making 1 to 5 kinds of garments for women and for girls over 14 years old percentages making 6 to 10 kinds. In all groups the percentage of women making children''s clothes In Table 4 is given the percentage of women having children under Table 4.—Proportion of women making garments for children under 15 years of age, classified by size of community and by income groups, and based on the number of families having children under IB years of age Percentage of women making garments— uva.x030487816 HOW TO TEACH SEWING MACHINE USE AND CARE STEP 1 How to sit and run a sewing machine 1-2 STEP 4 How to thread sewing machine bobbin and bobbin case 8-10 STEP 5 How to thread sewing machine upper threading 11-12 STEP 12How to take care of your sewing machine STEP 12How to take care of your sewing machine STEP 12How to take care of your sewing machine FOR THE INSTRUCTOR More about sewing machine needles 30 FOR THE INSTRUCTOR What to check if the sewing machine Threading Charts for different sewing machines 34-49 Student threads sewing machine 1. Most sewing machines have numbers on the stitch regulator. the needle has not been threaded in the right direction, the machine thread loops and loose stitches if the bobbin case is not put in right uva.x030488021 fabric is a lightweight washable woven, use the fusible interfacing witho''ut goat''s hair or non-woven with one-way only the chest measurement to determine the size jacket pattern to this alteration from the muslin to the back pattern piece; redraw the neckline and shoulder seam (14c). Cut interfacing for each section, following grainline on each pattern piece in addition to the directions given below. Fuse interfacing to your jacket fabric, following the 0 POCKET FLAPs—FOr sharp edges with no bulk, cut interfacing and trim 3,44" (2 cm) Off seam allowance edges (25a). fusible hair canvas for undercollar, it is also necessary to interface the upper collar. out jacket fabric, extend ends of upper collar pattern, following 8. To stitch bottom welt in place, fold jacket so bottom seam Using stitching line of opening as a guide, baste through seam allowances of jacket, Cut out front lining as follows: For a jacket pattern without a side wu.89005203120 Stitch the fronts of the lining about an eighth of an inch back of each fold edge. A hem is the best finish for the bottom of a plaited skirt as a seam in the lower edge would be bulky in the plaits. The seam can be hemstitched, fancy-stitched, piped, machinestitched, and, in the case of thin materials, trimmed with lace insertion, etc., so that the It is advisable to avoid a seam in the edge of either single or double collars in a transparent material, if possible. these raw edges fiat with a loose basting-stitch to the inside seams of the coat over which they lie. The lining of the sleeves is cut like the outside and the seams are stitched and pressed If the material does fray trim the seam edges down to % of an inch width and SHAPED hems and facings are used at the edges of garments of all materials. wu.89038445011 Child''s drcss made from man''s shirt--page 23. 7. lnfant''s shirt made from knit underwear-page 11. Clothing to be made over by school pupils should. Partly worn clothing may be remodeled and made Use one and one half widths of purpose by interlining with sheet wadding and tufting with odd bits of wool or baby ribbon. Fell the seams of heavy material, use French seams May be cut from a man''s shirt which is badly front of apron well down on shirt, so as to use best Cut back of apron from shirt fronts, saving buttons and buttonholes. Use fiat fell for seams. Cut off worn feet of six stockings. Use fell seams—half back stitch, lay flat and hem. Do not sew on machine as it cuts the material. 1 Finish legs with hem or with blanket stitch or Face one side and use Finish neck with bias facing of same. Finish sleeve and bottom with one inch hem. wu.89041962861 Often, double-cloth materials are held together by means of catching an occasional weft thread through to the opposite surface, other materials, they may be designated as lace weaves. Resist dyeing is used for material containing a combination of fibers, such as cotton and wool, or for fabrics in which a stripe definitely whether a given fabric is cotton or linen consists in placing a sample in a strong solution of washing soda. 3. Whether made by hand or by machinery, lace is an openwork fabric or network of linen, silk, cotton, or similar threads made In the making of needle-point lace, the design is drawn on parchment, which is kept straight by being stitched to heavy linen. needle-point edge is, in effect, applied to many kinds of machineand hand-made laces. opposite side, and sew the seam edges together with fine overhanding-stitches, using for this purpose silk thread that matches the wu.89041963224 It is so important that quality fabrics be cut on chic fabric cut by a Vogue pattern. The straight of the goods is indicated, and you will find that all the necessary marks of identification are clearly designated on each piece of the pattern. Next, fit the pieces of the pattern to you, pinning them carefully lines; an adequate cutting surface; a Vogue tions may be taken care of by the use of a perfectly fitted lining put over a dress-form that is original Vogue model from which the pattern was pattern was cut. pattern called for fabric eased at the top of the sections of the pattern on the fabric is also important. To sew straight or bias fabric over a cord, use a close the fabric over the cord, the four edges are held together and sewed with a running-stitch. wu.89041963299 Then come a few chapters of information on taking measurements, cutting garments, making adjustments in patterns for line of stitching in the plain seam comes directly on the fold (III). bastings and turn the facing to the right side of the garment and baste the plain seam so it comes directly on the fold. Baste the folded edge to the line of stitching (if Turn under a 4-inch hem on the edge of the strip underneath and stitch this in place. Pin and baste the collar lining { inch from the edge Stitch the collar and bias to the garment 1 inch from the edge. Cut the pocket strip, garment, and cambric along the marked line in the center of the rectangle, forming Place the flap on the right side of the garment so that the raw edge comes exactly on the line of the pocket wu.89047192950 yard in drapery departments to trim curtains and slip covers. Fabrics having warp threads of different colors giving the material a streaked fallen in love with a fabric you can understand how the colors for a whole room happened to be planned around a lovely piece strips 10-inches wide changing colors every These are made by cutting strips of the linen 2-inches wide and Plain draperies to match some color in figured wall paper, For the end pieces, cut paper 15-inches A new idea now is to cover the seat cushions of chairs and davenports with a contrasting color. the pattern pieces so that the design is centered for the back and the seat of the chair. When cutting a slip cover of striped material remember to center stripes in the 7. Pin and then slip-stitch in place, using upholsterer''s needle as shown at right of this sketch. wu.89099177321 requirements are planned so that a girl not only learns clothing construction but also the principles of good design whether it be of a needles, 5 to 10 sharps; pins number they may catch the threads of the maBB; tape line, 60 inches in length (with terial and ruin the appearance of the The tape measure that At the end of each project three queswe can use most easily is numbered on tions are listed merely to give you an All clothing members should bring comThread-Several sizes of thread are pleted articles to project meeting and To fasten threads firmly and neatly reverse and double stitch 1/2 inch at 3. Selecting the correct size and color of thread for holder. laundered for either personal or family be economical to buy material 36 inches 6. Baste and stitch /2 inch hem across To select material and to make a simple linen or cotton dress