V


GOODWIN'S
COURSE IN SEWING
Practical Instruction in Needlework for
Use in Schools and at Home
BY
EMMA E. GOODWIN
t
'Book III,.y.^:^y\ V

FRANK D. BEATTYS & COMPANY
393 399 LAFAYETTE STREET, NEW YORK CITY









Fig. 23.— Gathering and Sewing on Ruffle with Rolled Edge.
To gather ruffle with
rolled edge.—
Roll the edge as
for sewing on of
lace, and take
stitches as for
oversewing
about I inch
apart, to the
depth of the roll
along the edge.
Sew on the ruffle
by taking stitches in the same direction, over each gathering
stitch, as in Fig. 23.
To set in lace inserting.—Baste the inserting very evenly along the
edges on the right side of the cloth in the pattern selected.
Turn to the wrong side and cut the cloth through the middle,
between the bastings. Turn back with the folded edge in line
with the heavy threads woven in the edge of the inserting, as
shown in Fig. 25.
Oversew from
the wrong side
through the
folded edge and
the edge of the
inserting, taking
a stitch through
each opening in
the mesh of the
lace. Cut out the
overlapping cor-
ners of the insert- fig. 24.—inserting Set In, Right Side.

24


(Note: In marking notches, etc., a cross-stitch or a short line of run-
ning-stitches will be found to repay the trouble, as it is much
easier to put the markings in when cutting out than to measure
up the half-made garment to find the correct positions.)
Cut a strip 2 inches wide and 18 inches long, lengthwise of the
cloth, for the binding
of the placket.
If the petticoat is
to be made with
flounce, as shown in
Fig. 29, cut the upper
portion to the line of
perforations 9 inches
from the bottom of
the pattern. If to be
made plain, cut the full
length of the pattern,
which allows 3 inches
for hemming, indi-
cated by the line of
perforations 3 inches
from the bottom.
Cut the flounce
crosswise of the cloth,
9 inches deep and 3
yards in width.
Cut the bias band to finish the top of the flounce, if inches wide
and 2 yards long.
To make the petticoat.—Join the gores of the skirt according to the
notches and finish with flat felled seams. Close the center
back seam to the double perforation (••), which indicates the
placket opening, as shown in Fig. 18.

Fig. 33.—Flounce Attached with Bias Band.
31



Flg. 41.—Folding the Box-pleat.
To fold the box-pleat on right side 0}
front.—Measure the length required
for the front of the waist. Cut off
the selvage of the cloth. Measure
2 inches from the edge and turn
the fold to the wrong side. Measure
2 inches from the folded edge and
fold and crease on the right side.
Baste ^ inch tuck along
this edge, placing the
raw edge of the under
fold under the edge of the
tuck on the wrong side.
Place the back with the cen-
ter, marked with triple crosses
(+++), on
a length-
wise fold.
Place the front with the front edge, marked with a
line of single perforations, lengthwise of the cloth.
In cutting out the right side of the front, place
the pattern with the notch in the neck edge,
which indicates the center front, exactly in the
middle of the box-pleat. For the left side of
the front, allow 2% inches beyond the notch in
the neck edge for the hem.
Place the sleeve, cuff, and neckband, pocket
and sleeve facings with the line of four perfora-
tions (••••) lengthwise of the cloth.
Cut two portions for each cuff, for the
neckband and for the sleeve facings.
Mark the notches, the center back at neck
and waist, and the center fronts at the neck.

Fig. 42.—Placing the
Shirt Waist Pattern.
42


bottom and apply to the left side of the front in position indicated
by the perforations. Stitch flat around the edges. Fasten care-
fully at the corners of the opening.

Inside. Outside.
Fig. 43.—Facing for Shirt Waist Sleeve.
To make the sleeve.—Bind the under side of the sleeve opening with
the narrow piece for the underlap, sewing it on from the right
side and hemming down underneath. Sew the upper facing
along its shorter side to the opening, with the right side of the
facing to the wrong side of the sleeve. Fold over to the right side
and turn under the edges as indicated in Fig. 43. Stitch from
the right side around the edges and across below the point at the
end of the opening, through both top facing and underlap.
Close the sleeve with a plain seam, overcasted, or a French felled
seam if the material is not too heavy. Gather the sleeve at top
and bottom according to the perforations. Stitch the lower
edges of the cuffs, right sides together, with a small seam.
Turn right side out and baste the seamed edge flat. Baste the
outside of the cuff to the gathered edge of the sleeve, the middle
of the cuff at the seam inside, and the ends even with the edges
of the opening. If the cuffs are intended for link buttons, allow
the width of the underlap to extend beyond the edge of the cuff.
44


Memoranda
54