FILM ACCORDING . TO TARGET SEQUENCE VONB- 3^33 Qomplete Seiuiny Instructions THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY ASTOR, LENOX ILDEN FOUNDATIONS MAUDE W. RUSSELL Inventor Russell System of Garment Cutting and Author "Complete Sewing Instructions—The Russell Way" COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS-- THE RUSSELL WAY The Newest, Simplest, and Most Perfect Method of Sewing Ever Offered Women COPYRIGHTED, 1917, By MAUDE W. RUSSELL KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI All Rights Reserved, Including the Right to Translate Into Any and All Foreign Languages PUBLISHED BY THE RUSSELL COMPANY 912 Grand Avenue KANSAS CITY, MO. 1917-1918 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 5 N THE YEAR 1904 Maude W. Russell established herself as a dressmaker and ladies' tailor and continued this line of work until 1910. During these years of experience she realized how essen- tial it was to the success of her work to have a system of pattern cutting that would simplify the methods of dressmaking then in use. In 1910 she began to teach dressmaking and then realized more than ever the necessity of having some system of pattern cutting which all could readily understand. With the idea of solving this problem she continued her work and finally brought all of the knowledge and principles which she had acquired from her practical experience into use in perfecting the model of the Maude Russell System of Garment Cutting. After much experimenting and careful tests, she perfected this wonderful, adjustable pattern cutting system. This she offered to the public believing that its use would prove a great blessing not only to those who are compelled to earn their liveli- hood by sewing but to every woman who desires to be well dressed at the least possible expenditure of time, trouble and money. The Russell System has proved its worth by every practical test made by it and we are pleased to say that the approval which it has received from the public more than justifies the faith of the inventor in the superiority of her System over any other method of pattern cutting. And by placing this book of Complete Sewing Instructions before the people she knows that every woman can make her own clothes. THE RUSSELL CO. Kansas City, Mo., 1917 10 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY Important Points on Practical Dressmaking First — Do not rush while learning to sew, as you are very apt to overlook some of the most important things, as well as to become nervous and impatient. It is natural for you to progress very rapidly after you have familiarized yourself with the details of dressmaking. Second — Too much attention cannot be paid to the little points of charm that give to your clothes an air of distinction; for example: fancy pockets, bound buttonholes, ties, jabots, fichus, fancy belts, or even button-trimmings, give smart effects to the ordinary garment. These are the items that make ready-to-wear expensive, as well as permit dressmakers to charge such exorbitant prices for the knowl- edge they claim to possess. Descriptions on how to make all the above, as well as a great many more, are contained in this book. Third — In the making of the first garment, great care should be given to finishing of inside seams, snaps, hooks and eyes, buttons and buttonholes. By doing this you will never acquire that slovenly habit of having to pin your garments, thereby shortening the wear as well as attractiveness. It is well to keep in mind in the closing of belts and plackets, where there is any pressure on them, you should al- ways use hooks and eyes, or hooks and bars, as the strain unfastens them. Fourth — A moment's time devoted to the removing of all bastings, tying and clipping of all threads left by machine stitching, and the placing of knots where they can not be seen, will place you in a position where your work can not be criticized even by experts. Fifth — From the most exquisite gown to the plainest underwear, should be pressed before considering the garment finished; every precaution should be used so as not to scorch or spot, and never place an iron on the right side of the material without first having tried a sample to see if it affects the finish. Sixth — A good seamstress always cuts the material instead of tearing—also just a moment of time given to the pulling of a thread, COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 11 for a line to cut on will save you a lot of trouble—as torn goods have a tendency to ravel and it is impossible to use with the hemmers, gatherers, and other attachments of your sewing machine. Seventh—Before placing your pattern (either a Russell or a commer- cial) see that the material is folded—folded evenly; this is determined by the selvage, stripes or the grain of the material. Eighth — Where you have stripes, plaids, or floral designs, too much care cannot be exercised in the matching of them—in some cases it will be necessary to change your pattern; for instance, you might have to trim one gore of your skirt and add it to the other gore or you might have to raise one gore at the waist line in order to start the matching even, but at the same time it is much better to do this, as the trimming of the gore that extends upward will not affect the garment nearly so much as the unmatched lines. Ninth — In the cutting of goods having a nap such as broadcloths, velvets, etc., they should be cut with nap running the same way; for example, where your material is narrow and your gores wide, it will be necessary to cut one at a time—then place the right side of the gore to the right side of the material, taking care that the weave and nap are carefully matched. Tenth — To make sewing a real pleasure as well as a great saver of time, you should have a small room or a space in a room, as well as the following equipment: One Maude Russell Cutting Device, which can be adjusted to any size or form, and cuts to individual measure; with it you can select any kind of a picture and duplicate it into a per- fect-fitting pattern, thereby giving you clothes that are different from those worn by your friends, and at a very small cost; you will also need a few of the following—a good sewing machine, a pair of ten-inch shears, a pair of buttonhole shears, ironing board, also a sleeve board, a bolt of tape, featherbone, hooks and eyes, snaps, pins, bodkin needles, sewing thread, and an assortment of needles. With this outlay you will be enabled to either conduct a dressmaking business, or do any kind of sewing in your home. 12 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY Advice on Needles and Thread For neat work in sewing it is necesary to have definite ideas as to the sizes of needles and thread to be used in the different varieties of sewing. There are several different kinds of needles, of which the follow- ing are the most common and most frequently used: sharps, be- tweens, milliner's, embroidery, and darning or worsted needles. Sharps are long, slender needles, used for basting, gathering, darning or any other practical work, while the fine, short needle is used for hemstitching, hemming, felling and overcasting. Embroidery needles are different lengths and sizes, have long eyes, and are used according to the size of thread and material. Darning needles are similar to embroidery needles, only larger. Milliner's needles are very long and are only used in the making of millinery. Bodkin needles are long and flat with large eyes and are used for running tape, cords, ribbons, etc. A good seamstress should always have a bodkin needle handy, as she will need it frequently while doing fancy or high-class sewing. If you should buy a package of needles labeled Nos. 6 to 9—in the middle you will find No. 6, which is used for heavy sewing or for sew- ing on buttons; next on each side comes No. 7 and No. 8, which are used for medium coarse work, such as hemming towels or heavy stitching; on each side at the edge are No. 9, to be used for fine sewing. The thread must always correspond with the size of the needle; for example, when doing fine sewing, hemming and tucking for which needles Nos. 9 or 10 should be used, the thread should range in num- ber from 70 to 100, depending upon the fineness of the texture or material; Needle No. 8, for stitching and overcasting, should carry thread No. 50 to 70; for working buttonholes in gingham or other materials of medium weight use needles Nos. 7 and 8 and thread No. 50. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 13 The length of thread to be used in the beginner's lessons should be at least 20 inches, which will allow sufficient length to pull through the edge of material and tie a knot without tangling. Where a loopstitch, tailor's tack, or long basting stitch, is de- sired, would advise a thread 30 inches long. Never cut thread, as that causes a square or blunt end and makes it difficult to thread a needle. If you would become proficient in your sewing lessons—always remember to use your thimble at the beginning. I would also advise the closed-end thimble for the beginner as it is much easier, though you will find a great many of the best dressmakers and tailors using the open-end kind. The first and simplest stitches are those known as "Basting Stitches" which are three in number: First, even basting; second, uneven basting; third, a sort of combination stitch. If you want to be a good seamstress, you should make a very careful study of basting; but be careful not to overdo it, as a great many dressmaking schools and dressmakers do—so many of them try to carry out the ideas of the old-fashioned tailors who cannot get away from the lined, boned and tight-fitting garments. Of course, tailoring demands more basting than dressmaking, but one should be careful not to overdo it. The Russell Cutting Device of individual measure eliminates a great deal of basting, as the garment is cut to fit the form and does not have to be basted into shape—it also allows all seams, thereby as- suring you of no alterations, and every seam matches so perfectly, each and every part of the garment fits together so nicely, that bast- ing is not necessary. Will add, though, that where basting is neces- sary one cannot give it too much attention. Before removing the basting threads be sure that all knots have been removed, as the drawing of them through the material is liable to break the thread of the material, thereby causing holes. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 15 Running Stitch—This stitch is just the same as the even-basting stitch, except as to length. For the running stitch the stitches and spaces between should be of equal length, depending upon the fineness of the material upon which you sew. Sizes of needles and thread should correspond with fineness of materials also. The illustration above will give a correct idea of how your work should look. In the running stitch we use no knot, but instead fasten the beginning of the seam-to-be, also fastening the thread in the same way at the end to prevent ripping. Back Stitching — This stitch is the one our grandmothers em- ployed, which so closely resembled machine stitching and was made in the following manner: Use no knot, but fasten the thread in the manner suggested for the running stitch. Take up twice the amount of material on the needle from the wrong side that you wish your stitch length to be, draw needle thru and insert in material at the point of one-half the length of the stitch just taken. Again take up and repeat as before—see illustration above. This stitch is used where it is necessary to have strength and security in the seam. 16 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY Overhanding Stitch — This stitch is used when we wish to fas- ten edges of material together in a secured seam. Place edges together, pin and baste. This is an over-and- over stitch and is made by inserting the needle from the under side and passing the thread over the edges of the material to be sewed. If the thread should be of insufficient length to finish the seam, fasten thread by allowing it to run along with the edge un- der the first five or six stitches made by the new thread—see illustration above. Overcasting — This is also an over-and-over stitch and is used to prevent materials from raveling at the edge; it is used on the edges of seams to be pressed open, or may be used on flat seams where tailoring work is desired; place the knot on the wrong side and insert the needle from the under side. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 17 In appearance this stitch is much like overhanding, but the stitches are longer and farther apart. Care should be exercised that stitches be of equal length and distance apart. This is used mostly in finishing inside seams of heavy wool- ens or crash, and is especially good on materials that show a ten- dency to ravel. Blanket Stitch — Like overcasting, it is used for finishing edges or to prevent raveling. These stitches may be of even length or they may be a short and a long stitch alternating; this stitch is some- times called the loopstitch. Make a knot in the end of the thread to fasten it and insert the needle the desired length of the stitch from the edge of the ma- terial; next insert the needle on the right side, holding thread with the thumb of left hand so that it will form a loop as shown in the ill list rat ion; to turn a corner, work three stitches from the same place with the middle one running diagonally from the point where the nee- dle was inserted over the corner of material. 20 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY The same rule applies to all materials. The strictly tailored but- tonhole has the round opening on front; this has to be made with a buttonhole punch. After you have learned to cut and serge the buttonhole, you are now ready to finish. On cotton or linen material use cotton and linen thread, always using coarse thread, No. 40 being the standard size. On woolens and silk material, the silk buttonhole twist is used. First make a knot in your thread—using a thread about thirty inches in length, as this will complete the buttonhole without hav- ing to renew thread, which would make a bad looking place in the buttonhole. Begin at the rear of the buttonhole by placing your knot be- tween the two materials, and use the regular but- tonhole stitch as shown. Great care should be exercised in having your stitches the same length and not to show any ma- terial between stitches, as the closer your stitches are together the neater your buttonhole. After buttonholes have been worked the edges should be felled together and pressed; this is the final finish and should never be neglected. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 21 Hemming Muslin—First pull your thread to determine a straight line and then cut the material, turn over one-fourth of an inch to take care of raw edge (this may be reduced to one-eighth on fine material) then turn again the width of hem desired and baste to position, using even basting stitches. After the hem has been basted (using the long basting stitch) pull thread from needle without fastening, so as to make it easy to remove basting thread; then stitch on sewing machine. Hand Hemming — Determine width of hem, turn and baste, fol- lowing same rule as for stitching on machine. Now thread your needle with thread to be used for hem and insert between the fold of material; this will place the knot where it cannot be seen from either side of hem—use the hemming stitch, which looks very much like overhanding, but is made by inserting the needle in the opposite manner. Care should be taken to prevent the thread from being too noticeable on the right side of material. This result may be secured by inserting the needle under only one or two of the threads of the material before entering the hem edge. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 23 fore starting the work. You should be very careful to roll the hem as small as possible and very even, using the overhand stitch, taking as small stitches as you can in order to take care of the roll hem. Where laces and insertions are used, only one stitch is taken to secure the roll hem at the same time. Patching Patching may be done in several ways. We have the hemmed patch, the darned patch, and patching on flannel. Hemmed Patch—Cut the worn or torn place square; then cut patch square, about one inch larger than hole, and match the weave of the two materials. To form the hem square at each corner, the cloth must be cut diagonally from the corner to the depth of one- fourth of an inch, which will give you a sufficient amount to fasten patch underneath. Where stripes, plaids or floral designs are used, great care should be used in the matching. While this patch is used principally for wearing apparel, yet it is excellent for bed linens, towels, or any cotton or linen gar- ments that must bear frequent laundering. In the patching of good or expensive garments the hemming stitch should always be used, but on coarse, ordinary garments the running stitch is used, as it is a great saver of time. 24 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY Patching on Flannel may be done by cutting out the worn place and inserting a hem patch, but this gives rather a heavy edge to the patch; so it is better to leave the patch flat and sew around both the inside and the outside with a catch stitch which is described on page 45; this stitch is used also for finishing seams in flannel. The Darn Patch is used on table linens, woolen materials and the like. It is best in this style of patching to use a thread of the same kind as material, if possible. Any worn place is, as a rule, more easily mended'by darning than in any other way and is also less noticeable. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 25 Cut out a patch of sufficient size, place it and baste securely under worn spot, weave the thread back and forth, using the run- ning stitch, following the weave each way. In this manner the loose worn ends are fastened down—then press well. Be careful to not draw the thread too tight, as that gives the entire patch a drawn look. Darning Stockings and Underwear.—Either baste the material to a piece of cardboard, or hold securely over some other smooth sur- face. As the garment or stocking is usually worn rather thin around the hole, it is necessary to darn it well back from the open- ing to prevent the strain of new threads tearing a new hole. To darn, use the running stitch and cover as much space as seems worn, bringing the thread under and over, alternating each time, as shown in illustration. These new threads must not be drawn tight, but must be left loose enough to allow for shrinkage when laundered. 28 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY Sewing on Lace—Lace is commonly sewed to the edge of the ma- terial. The lace should be placed with the right side facing the right side of the goods, with the edges even. The stitch used is overhanding. The needle should catch just the edge of the lace and the edge of the material and the stitches should be close together. When sewing on lace that is not gathered the lace should be held a little full. This may be done by pushing it slightly with the thumb of the left hand. If the lace is to be gathered, it may be done by pulling the heavy thread at the top. Sew on as directed, using a fine, short needle with fine thread. Insertions may be put in by overhanding to the rolled or hemmed edges of the material. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 29 Insertions may be put in by using the overhand stitch. The nicest way is to roll the hem in as small a roll as is possible according to the material you are using (per illustration, page 22); in this way the one overhand stitch takes care of the insertion and roll. You should be very careful to hold the insertion a little full when putting on, as lace shrinks more than material, otherwise it will appear drawn when washed. In the use of insertion on plain materials or ruffles, where speed is desired, would suggest the use of the hemming attachment on machine; then hold insertion a little full and stitch by machine or overhand as preferred. An easier and more rapid way of putting in insertion is to place the right side of the insertion on the right side of the material and baste the insertion to place, carefully basting both edges. Stitch on the sewing machine, being careful to keep about one-sixteenth of an inch in from the edge of the insertion. Now turn to the wrong 32 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY Finished Seams With Binding—This is the only satisfactory way of finishing seams that ravel. On linen or cotton goods would advise the regular bias binding that may be purchased in all depart- ment stores, but on fine materials such as vel- vets, serges, etc., you may use any of the follow- ing materials: nets, chiffons, china silks, organdy or India linen. By using these you will be able to match any color or shade. By referring to page 49 you will see how to cut these materials on the true bias before using. These bias strips should be cut from three-quar- ters to one inch in width—that is determined by the thickness of material you are using; then overhand the strips together or stitch them in a flat seam on the machine—being very careful to always place the right side of the bias material to the right side of material of seam; then stitch one-fourth of an inch, or width of presser foot, and turn bias binding over this seam, allowing the raw edges of bias to extend flat underneath; this is fastened down either by a running stitch, by hand or machine stitching. 36 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY Tailored Seams—These are made by stitching the seams and press- ing them flat, per illustration. Then on the right side of the material stitch any width de- sired, although one-fourth inch is standard and is usually the best. This seam applies only to tai- lored coats and skirts. On light weight materials, the edges may be turned under as per illustration; but on heavy materials, such as linens, and woolens the seams should be left raw, and then finished by overcasting. In coats or jack- ets, where lining is to be used it is not necessary to finish them at all. 38 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY Slot Seam—This is a seam that never goes out of style, because it is one that is always practical and attractive. It can be used in dresses, coats, skirts, etc., where slot seams are used on skirts; it enables you to make an invisible placket as well as the opening of a waist, either front or back; this is exceptionally good for some styles. This seam is made by basting your seams, using the small even basting stitch. The half-inch seam is plenty wide; the standard three-eighth seam is good, unless you want wide slots. After this has been basted and fitted, press seam open, then cut straight piece of material, as wide as your seam is after being pressed open, and baste it flat, using the long basting stitch on both edges, as per illus- tration. Now press again and stitch from the right side the desired width, as per illustration on following page; should you be stitching wider than the presser foot of the machine, would advise the use of the quilter attachment. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 39 You will find on some materials it is very necessary to stitch downward on each side; in doing this it is impossible to use the quilter on both sides, as it throws the stitching opposite, but on stitch- ing the right hand side of your seam, the quickest and most accurate way to accomplish this is to commence at the bottom of the skirt, using your quilter or presser foot to gauge, but remove thread from the machine needle; run full length of the seam. This makes a mark to stitch on. Now remove your quilter and thread your machine needle, and you can stitch the downward seam without any trouble; when the bastings are removed, that leaves an opening exposing the under- neath strip slightly. A great many times this strip is of a different color which makes a very pretty finish. Seams may be finished by binding or overcasting. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 41 Chain Stitch—This is a very simple embroidery stitch used in out- lining and trimming. Insert needle from under side of material, leaving the knot on the wrong side of material. Hold the thread down with the left thumb to form a loop. Insert needle from right side at the point where it came through and take a stitch toward you, bring- ing the needle through. Release hold on loop and draw to posi- tion. Repeat. Cross Stitch—This stitch is used to work out de- signs on canvas and is fre- quently used as trimming for aprons, house dresses and the like that are made of checkered material. It may be done with an over-and-over stitch much like overcasting, and com- ing back cross all the first stitches made, or may be done separately a cross at a time as in illus- tration. 42 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY . .wmmmmmmmmmmmmmm Outline Stitch —This stitch may be made in any one of the three illustra- ted ways. The thread should have no knot on the end, but should be fas- tened by taking three or four running stitch- es in the oppo- s i t e direction in which the outline is worked. These are also known as stemming stitches in embroidery. Feather Stitching is used for trimming and finishing and may have any number of feather edges or branches. This is occasion- ally called briar stitch. Insert needle from wrong side to place the knot. Hold thread to po- sition with thumb of left hand and take a stitch, allow- ing needle to come over loop. Repeat for the desired number of "briars" and transfer thread to the left to make stem. Repeat stitch- es, transfer thread to right, etc. I ii 44 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY it gives a good finish and insures strength. Hooks and eyes as well as buttons should be sewed with cotton or linen thread when possible. Sometimes it is necessary to use eyelets made of thread in- stead of the ordinary "eye." Make them by sewing back and forth over a space of one-fourth of an inch long. This produces a loop and should have four or five threads. These threads should now be covered with loop or buttonhole stitches, working from the right side to the left. Crowd these stitches close together and fas- ten thread securely on the wrong side of material when finished. Middy Blouses, and similar garments wherein a lacing and cord is used, must have eyelets worked; run a thread in a circle the size the eyelet must be and open to this size with a stiletto or orangewood stick. To give added strength to the eyelet the edge may be button- holed. If the eyelet is to be very large, it is well to run in the outline thread and to slash with a sharp knife, or scissors, across the diam- eter of the circle both ways, forming four right angles at center. Open with stiletto, turning corners back on the wrong or under side of the work. Proceed as suggested above. Tape to be used for hangers should be sewed on in the following man- ner: Turn under ends of tape one-half inch, place flat on material and pin to position; beginning at the side at the point where the turn-under ends, sew around to same point, using hemming stitch; sew across tape to the beginning point, using back stitching. Tape may be sewed to the edge of towels and the like. (See illustration on page 43.) Cut tape required length, turn tape under one-fourth inch at each end. Place ends even, one on each side of the towel, and sew with hemming stitch. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 47 same rules apply to coat lapels and collars, as well as all corners on the lower edges of coats or jackets, and cuffs of any designs. On any seam that has to be turned and left inside you will find that pressing wide open before turning will aid you greatly in get- ting a smooth edge, while the material will be much easier to stitch or press. It is a great saving of time to make a small roll or pad and keep for this purpose. Tucks may be put in with fine hand sewing or may be made with the tucker attachment on the sew- ing machine. If they are run in by hand the run- ning stitch, a very fine one, is used. The tucks must be marked to insure the spaces between be- ing even. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 49 Bias Facings are cut on the bias or diagonal of the material. A true bias is a true diagonal and may be found in any material by turning the straight cross-wise thread parallel with the straight length-wise thread of the ma- terial; cut on the fold. The facing may be cut any width desired. 50 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY Facings may be either shaped or bias. Shaped facings are cut as the garment to be faced is, though they are narrow. When an edge, curved as the one in the illustration, is to be faced, it is well to use a shaped facing. The seam must be slashed, as per illustration above, to admit of the spreading of the edge. Necks, sleeves and all curved edges should be treated in this manner. 52 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY On square or V-shaped fitted fac- ings, the corners should be cut diag- onally about one- fourth of an inch, as per illustration on Square Collar. This allows your facing to turn un- der without that drawn, puckered look that is often seen in poorly made garments. 54 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY The bottom may be hemmed and a narrow elastic inserted to hold it to position, or the desired edge may be gathered into a band. Where fullness is desired in the front of corset cover: after you have hemmed the fronts and placed the two edges together ready for cutting, set your pattern back 21/2 inches on material; this allows five inches in all, but will give a good lap and the ex- act amount of fullness. Where band is desired, cut a length-wise strip two inches longer than the waist measure, and two inches wide, turn under one-half inch at each end, sew on the corset cover with the right side of the band to the wrong side of the garment, turn the re- maining edge under one-fourth inch, turn the band down as you would a hem on the right side of the garment; baste and stitch, or put down by hand as desired. In the making of fancy corset covers, stitching lace or embroid- ery beading around the lower edge and drawing in to fit waist line with ribbon is especially pretty, and very easily done. Underwear of all kinds, including teddy-bears, Princess slips, com- bination suits, petticoats, etc., should be finished with French seams, the neck and arm-eyes should be faced or bound and trimmed with lace or embroidery in any desired manner. Materials used may be crepe de chines, combination silks and linen, linen or fine cot- ton. Instructions for cutting these will be found in the Maude Russell Text-Book on Garment Cutting. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 55 X Drop Shoulder Waist—This style of waist is very popular at this time. The pattern is shown in illustration No. 1, page 25, of Maude Russell Text-Book on Cutting, and the design may be made of any kind of material. If the opening is to be made in the front, the front is laid on the straight edge of the material; fold the goods so that both fronts may be cut at once. Mark the material with all the markings that appear in the Maude Russell pattern. Also, when using a commercial pat- tern of any kind, as this will aid you greatly in putting same to- gether. The back should be laid with the center back on a length- wise fold of the goods. Always pin the pattern to the material to prevent slipping. Mark the back of material to correspond with the markings on the pat- tern. For light weight materials French seams should be used. Run a gathering thread in each of the fronts at the shoulder seam line between markings. This fullness should riot be nearer than one and one-half inches to the arm-eye. If the fullness is allowed too close to the arm-eye the waist has a tendency to drag or fall over the shoulder, making it uncomfort- able and unsightly. Draw the thread to give the seam the required length and baste the front to the back at shoulder point with the wrong side of the material together. Turn the hem down the front the width allowed for, and baste in the proper place. If the pattern has been cut to the proper meas- urements and the seams taken the proper width, there will be no ques- tion as to fit. 56 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY The waist may be cut long enough to allow for a hem at the bottom or cut off for band; in the former case turn, baste and stitch and insert a narrow rubber to keep waist to position. If a band is used, run a strong gathering thread one-fourth of an inch from the bottom of the waist, cut a length-wise strip two inches in width, turn under one-half inch at each end and baste to lower edge of waist, with the ends even with the front hemmed edge; adjust gathers properly, pin at intervals, baste and stitch; turn over edge of strip one-fourth of an inch, turn up on seam just sewed, as for hem; pin, baste and stitch to position. This forms a band three-fourths of an inch in width, with a lap at the front of one inch. Any becoming style of collar may be used with this waist. Just one-half the collar pattern is used. Lay the center back on lengthwise fold of the material The neck line of the collar must correspond with the neck line of the waist. The collar may have a picot outer edge, or may be bound or faced as you desire. Pin the collar with center back to center back of waist at neck line. Do not stretch the collar, as it fits over the waist and should be held loosely. Pin to position and baste. Cut a true bias facing the length required and baste it in with the collar seam. This facing should be one inch in width, but can be narrower, according to the material used. Clip or slash the seam as directed for putting on a shaped facing, turn over the edge of bias strip and turn down on waist, basting flat as for hem. Stitch or put down by hand as desired—the latter being the better. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 57 Butterfly Waist—Pattern directions on page 31 of the Russell Text- Book on Cutting. But this same rule applies to any commercial pat- tern and will aid you greatly in joining seams properly. If front clos- ing is desired, lay the pattern on the material with the center back on a lengthwise fold—allowance must be made for hem at front clos- ing; pin front and back together, folding material so that two meets two, three meets three and one meets one. Any fullness found in sleeve at back should be evenly adjusted, as it prevents the sleeve from straining. Baste and stitch. In sheer materials the French seam should be used. Use any collar you may wish. Sleeve may have extra fullness taken up in a dart, as shown in the illustration, or gathered into a cuff. Collars may be made in any plain or fancy design. Care must be taken that the neck of waist and neck of collar shall correspond in size and shaping. The outer edge of the collar may be picoted, faced, bound or trimmed with braiding or lace edging. This pattern is used as the foundation for waists with the large arm-eyes, for raglan lines, and in many instances for fancy blouses of different styles. It is finished around waist same as drop-shoulder waist. The finishing of all waists is the same. 58 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY Plain Two-Piece Sleeve—Measure up from hand the number of inches necessary to locate the elbow point, on the outside seam of under-arm section; see illustration. Place a mark two inches above and one two inches below the elbow point, pin upper and lower sleeve sections together for in- side seam, beginning at the top; pin outside seam edges together, beginning at the top and pinning down to first mark above elbow point, then commence at the hand or lower part of the sleeve, and pin upward to first mark; that will give you a distance of four inches, which provides for the entire curve of the elbow. On woolen materials this should be taken out by shrinking (shrinking is done by dampening fullness or gathers, and placing a heavy cloth over same and using a hot iron parallel to gathers) the same method be- COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 59 ing used in shaping top of sleeve for arm-eye; in silks or wash materials, where two-piece sleeves are desired, the fullness is taken care of by very fine gathers for this same distance. This space is properly regulated by the Maude Russell System, but this same rule applies to commercial patterns. Putting in Sleeves — One of the most important things found in dressmaking and tailoring is making of sleeves and properly adjusting same. Since having previously learned all the details in the making of sleeves, it is now necessary to know how to put them in properly. The following rule applies to all sizes and styles: Place the front seam of sleeve to the proper place of arm-eye in front of waist; this is found in all sizes by commencing at the under-arm seam and extending forward to the first turn upward. Now place your front seam of sleeve, then pin upward within four inches of shoulder seam; now pin backward all the way around within two inches of the shoulder seam at the back of the waist; hold all gathers or fullness between these two markings—always keeping in mind that the fullness in front of shoulder seam should be twice as much as in back. On extremely large arm-eyes the gathers or fullness may be placed a greater distance than specified to give comfort at arm-eyes. 60 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY Making1 of Girdles—A skirt cut by the Russell System will always fit perfectly at the waist and hips, but to retain its shape depends en- tirely upon the way in which you finish and mount same. No. 2 No. 1 A properly made girdle is a great aid in both the fit and comfort of your skirt, and one made in the following manner will never fail to give entire satisfaction. For wool or silk, take linen crash or canvas; for any colored material, would suggest the linen color; in delicate colors or white would suggest white; for wash materials take Indian-head muslin or plain linen, (would advise either white or linen color in this case, as it will not fade in washing). Use one-third or one-half yard, according to width, for large waists; you will have to piece it once, but by stitching the selvages together, as it will naturally come in cutting true bias, it does not affect the wear or appearance. Now fold it on the true bias, as per illustra- tion for cutting true bias, and cut about two inches larger than your natural waist around, and about four inches in width—for extremely high waist lines you may cut wider; now crease this through the center and stitch a piece of straight tape, or if you should not have handy the straight tape you may use a straight piece of COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 61 muslin one inch wide, turned under on both edges; this se- cures your waist line from stretching; take featherbone and cut it in the same lengths your girdle is in width, stitch it five inches apart, full length of girdle; the better way is to start at center of girdle, ex- tending within five or six inches of the end (see illus- tration No. 1), then place the girdle around your waist, and pin tight; that shapes it and fits it; mark where your pins are placed and cut off any surplus goods, now stitch featherbone to each edge of this after you have turned the edges back covering raw seams with featherbone at openings. (See illustration No. 2.) You will find on all feather- bone that there is a soft edge allowed for the stitching down with the machine; take bias tape or thin material cut on a true bias and bind both edges, exercising great care not to draw the edges, as that will make it tight; sew hooks and round eyes and allow them to extend out the distance of the eye, which makes it very easy to hook. (See illustration No. 3.) No. 3 No. 4 62 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY Mounting Skirts—To mount the skirt, should you not want a belt, turn the top of skirt under and put it down by hand; where heading is de- sired make it any width that is becoming, according to prevailing style, and stitch to top of girdle, then put skirt down by hand, covering seam where heading has been stitched. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 63 Where belt is to be used in any width, first stitch skirt to girdle with raw seam, have the belt completely finished and pressed, baste to the girdle, covering the seam on right side, then put it down by hand, using the feather-stitch on wrong side and blind stitch on the right side; see illustrations below. For fancy gowns you may US9 silk or ribbon, by taking small darts at waist line and stitching featherbone over them. This gives a very pretty inside finish but should not be as tight as the bias-fitted girdles. Use this girdle for all one-piece dresses, and your dress will wear much better and have the appearance of first-class workman- ship. (See illustration on page 64.) 64 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY When a dress has been cut by the Russell System and mounted on the Russell girdle, it will always hold the shape and lines when either sitting or standing. Another great advantage is, the skirt will not wrinkle when sitting or form wrinkles like a skirt cut to standard measure or by commercial patterns. See illustration above. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 65 One-Piece Dresses. By using the Russell Girdle in any one-piece dress, from a plain house dress to the most exquisite gown, you will find three great advantages: 1st. It gives more comfort to the wearer, as well as prevents slipping and pulling out of shape, especially at the arm-eyes and under the arms, where one-piece dresses have a tendency to always pull out of shape. 2nd. The girdle protects all the strain on the dress regardless of the weight of material, thereby giving twice the service usually obtained in dresses not fitted with girdles or ready-to-wear. 3rd. It gives a beautiful waist line finish—the girdle takes care of all raw seams on the wrong side of the dress, and by using any of the following outside finishing: belts, plain, either wide or narrow, crushed or pleated, beaded or draped girdle effects, you will have a pretty and substantial finish on the right side. This will aid espe- cially the stout figures in obtaining a neat and stylish waist line. Making Skirts—The most important thing in skirt making is to have good lines and in order to get these, the goods must, be cut on the right grain, or "on the right weave" as some would say. You can always feel that you are right and that you will get good lines if you use the Russell Cutting Device, as it cuts to perfect lines and elimi- nates the worry of hanging the skirt, and watching the weaves. It puts every style to your individual measurement, marking the exact length for hem as well as allowing all seams; but in using commercial patterns great care must be exercised as they are cut to standard measurements and it depends entirely upon your knowledge of placing them on the ma- terial as to what the results will be. In sewing up skirts be very careful to get the correct gores together. This can be done by num- bering them as you cut, being sure to place corre- sponding numbers before basting or stitching. By following instructions on pages 66 and 67 you will eliminate all difficulty in getting seams together properly. Baste the edges, taking care neither to stretch or full either edge. i 66 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY Cutting Skirts—When cutting skirts by the Russell System, or any commercial pattern, on skirts from three-piece to seven gores, you will find giving a gradual slope of four inches on the side and back gores you will have a perfect line as well as the right grain of material and both seams will be almost on the same weave. This is determined by marking the exact length you wish skirt to be and placing that point on the straight or selvage of the material, then mark four inches back at top of pattern and cut on the straight line as per illustra- tion above. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 67 This should also be followed on petticoats, or Princess slips, to prevent sagging when laundered. Front gore should always be cut on fold of the material. On seven gores and upward to the extent of fifteen gores the slope of two and one-half inches is sufficient; same is determined by following the same rule given for three to seven-gore skirts. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 69 Hemming of Skirts—Nothing adds more to the attractiveness of a skirt or dress than an even, well-finished hem. This can be accom- plished very easily if the Russell Cutting Device is used, as it properly marks in and allows the standard three-inch hem, thereby eliminating all the worry of trying to get the hem even. But if you wish to use a standard or commercial pattern I would suggest that you do as follows: After the skirt has been properly finished and pressed, put it on and adjust to girdle as you will wear it, take a straight ruler and mark as many inches from floor, according to the prevailing style and the length that will look best on a figure of your height. For marking, either crayon or pins may be used. After this has been done, baste with a long basting stitch along lines of marking, press the hem in and mark three and one-fourth inches and trim even. As the skirt is wider at the bottom than at the place where turn is made, you will have some surplus material; the seam of hem should correspond exactly with seam of skirt and all full- ness must be placed between. This extra fullness in all silks, wash- goods, and satins can be taken care of by small pleats, or fine gathers. Hemmed by Hand 70 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY Shrinking Fullness of Hems—In woolen materials it should be shrunk out by running fine gathers and placing damp cloth and pressing par- allel with gathers. Stitched by Machine In materials where it is necessary to put the hem in by hand would suggest the use of the overhand or the catch stitch, being very careful not to allow the thread to show on the right side of material—the catch stitch being the better one for heavy materials and velvet; where machine stitching is used for hems, would sug- gest stitching on the wrong side and very close to the edge of turn- under. 72 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY Making of Plackets is highly important, and by adhering strictly to the fol- lowing rule, you will al- ways have a smooth well- finished placket. The placket should be twelve inches in depth (for me- dium hip size, which ranges from forty to forty-six and over. Where hip meas- ure is under forty, use eleven inches for placket). After the skirt has been fitted, take off and stitch the seams, except seam where placket is to be; this you stitch within twelve inches (or eleven, which- ever you may use), then tie machine thread; now baste, starting even with machine stitching to the waist line, press all seams flat— pressing the basted seam as well as the stitched ones; this establishes an exact line for the placket, pull out the basting thread to open the placket—care- ful attention should be paid to the pulling of bastings as given elsewhere in this book. Basted for pressing to mark exact line for placket. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 73 Cut a straight piece of the material two and one-half inches wide, and a fraction longer than placket is to be; this is to be the binding for the left or under edge of the placket; baste to the placket edge, plac- ing the right side of the strip to the right side of the skirt, and stitch. Be sure that your basting and stitching comes exactly on the crease made by former pressing, press seam open, turn the edge of the strip under one-fourth an inch, turn the new edge over to meet the stitching line, us- ing overhand-stitch for fin- ishing. For the right or upper edge cut a strip one and one-half inches wide and the length of placket, baste and stitch it to upper side of placket edge with right sides together; care should be taken here to follow crease made by pressing; remove basting threads and press open, turn edge or facing down one-fourth inch, turn facing on the line of stitching and baste to position, fasten to place by careful blind-stitching and press; finish at the lower end by catch-stitch- ing the binding to the fac- ing, on the wrong side, overcasting ends to keep them from raveling. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 77 be at least five inches in length and not to exceed six inches. Baste pleating on the lining exactly where the pocket is to be and now take two pieces of materials—would suggest same as lining, hav- ing them about one-half inch wider than pleating is—baste one piece with corresponding edges of pleating, with about one-half inch seam; the other piece should be basted just opposite, with edges meeting; stitch with sewing machine, on both edges, just the width of pleating, then slash between. 78 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY Have your pleating extend downward for first basting on the coat, and then when slash and turn is made, it turns the pleating upward as per illustration. Now turn both pieces for pocket lining through this slash, and stitch any shape desired un- derneath; the round finish is better. Press nicely and finish each corner with an arrow- head, or straight bar, made with buttonhole twist. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 79 Coat Pocket With Flap — For making flaps, cut a piece of material six inches long by three and one- half inches wide, then sew a seam one- fourth inch wide, turn, baste close and press, then stitch down one-fourth inch from the edge—take another piece six and one-half inches long by two and one- fourth inches wide, baste this with your 80 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY flap on the right side of coat and stitch one- fourth inch and the length of flap, tie your thread on the wrong side and cut your material be- tween stitching, turn your lower facing in and baste firmly with one-eighth inch ex- tending; turn your flaps down and baste at upper edge, then press with a damp cloth on the wrong side of coat, sew your pocket lining in place and finish pocket on wrong side. The top or bust pocket is made in the same manner, only flap is five and one- half inches long and two inches wide and reversed, the flap is sewed on the lower side of pocket and turned up—the ends being blind stitched in place. The wrong side for bust pockets with flap or without are stitched in the same manner as illus- tration shown for pockets with flaps. 82 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY gether, press firmly and proceed to make pocket on the other side. Bound buttonholes are made in a similar way— the ends being fastened with an arrow-head or a straight bar. The secret of making pockets and buttonholes lies in the pressing. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 83 Coatmaking Place the pattern for front section with the center front on the lengthwise edge of the material. As in all other cutting, the cloth should be doubled and both front sections cut at once, being very care- ful to place the straight edges of the goods together, seeing that the grain of the material is placed exactly the same the nap (when using material with nap) extending downwards. The front side body is placed on the goods with the straight line of the material running parallel with the center of the section. Pin pattern to the material to prevent slipping and cut. Place the center back section with center back on the lengthwise fold of the material, and cut; the back side body should be placed the same as the front side body, seeing that the straight line of the material runs parallel with the center of section. Should you be using the Maud Russell Cutting Device keep in mind that you only have three-eighths of an inch seam allowance, which is standard; should you want more you will have to make your own allowance. It is well to always know the size seam the pattern allows before starting to make the coat. The above pertains only to the outer part of the coat or to the coat without lining; but on strictly tailored coat, where a lining is required, the following suggestions should be adhered to very closely. Cut the fronts and front side body from tailor's canvas. The can- vas should first be shrunken. Side front of canvas should be cut to extend only about two or three inches down, on the under-arm seam, and should be sloped gradually toward the front seam, extending two inches below the waist line—per illustration next page. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 85 seam should be used, as per illustra- tion on tailored seams, always hav- ing the seam extend toward them- eyes, both from back and front. If the coat is to be soft finish, the same should be pressed flat. In the making of all coats and jackets, the seams should be slashed. If the coat is to have pockets, lay the coat fronts to- g e t h e r, matching them very care- fully, and mark the desired places for pockets with chalk; then tailor tack as per illustration on making tailor tacks or loop-stitching. Any style pocket may be used, ac- cording to prevail- ing style, full de- tails being given for pocket making i n this book. After pockets are finished, press and baste 86 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY your coat to canvas, being very careful to not have any wrinkles either in canvas or material. If bust forms are used they should be pressed into shape and inserted at this time, before pro- ceeding any farther with the coat. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY 87 Basting and Pressing Two Things of Great Importance in Tailoring are Basting and Pressing. Now the front of coat and lapel should be made. Com- mence by trimming one-half inch from edge of coat front, baste your stay-tape (or straight edge) on and fell it to canvas. Mark your lapel where turn is desired and pad, using padding-stitch —the padding-stitch is made by keeping the thread on canvas and just catching enough to hold, without exposing the thread on the outside of the material. Stitch back of coat and canvas the same as the front and baste shoulder seams—the front seam should be stretched on to the back of coat one-half inch (as every one is inclined to be slightly sunken on front shoulder seam and round on the back of shoulder seam.) Stitch on the machine, remove bastings and press. By stitching on both sides of seam the width of presser foot makes a pretty and substantial seam. Now stitch under-arm seam, slash and press. The collar should be made next, and is done by cutting your canvas exactly the same and trimming all the way around three- eighths of an inch, as per illustration; now stitch on the sew- ing machine as per illustration for the break collar, and pad the re- mainder of collar as lapel. Sew into position and press. A good suggestion is to determine the center of collar and center back of coat and place two corresponding notches together and baste outward; this insures both sides being even. Next, determine where you wish the buttonholes to be and space them, cut canvas out as per illustration and fell a piece of lining over canvas to work buttonhole through, as per illustration on buttonhole work. 88 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS—THE RUSSELL WAY Sew your front facing and collar facing in place, the facing to the right side of the coat side, being very careful to baste even; stitch on sewing machine and remove bastings; now trim half of remaining seam of coat front away, turn, baste around edge of collar and coat firmly with two rows of basting, then press as per illustration on pressing of woolen materials. Turn coat even around bottom with hem about one inch and fell to the coat and press. Baste your lining in the coat after making a neat pocket as per illustration on inside coat pockets—page 76. Seams of lining should be slashed the same as coat and basted very carefully, leaving it a fraction looser than outside of material; this allows the lining to wear longer and gives a better appear- ance to the garment; fell all seams, using a fine, short needle and a fine silk thread, taking every precaution to not let stitches catch the coat material—short, even stitches should always be taken in the felling of coat linings.