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15.6.2015
SVI VILIVY
LIBRARY OF THE
OHIO · STATE,
UNIVERSITY
ovy VIVVV
THIS PLATE
THE GIFT OF
THE CLASS
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1890
T.E French Dal 1915.
AN Macdonald Sa


Vacational Fuchu Inaering
Home Economics Department
Ohio State University


A HANDBOOK OF
ELEMENTARY SEWING


73





FAN






TTTTTTTTTT916

Fig. 1. Doilies, page 34. Fig. 2. Sewing Case, page 59.
Fig. 3. Bookmarker, page 41. Fig. 4. Towel with
Swedish Weaving, page 62. FRONTISPIECE.





FG. I. Doilies, pa' 24 FIG. 2. Sewing Cast. page 59.
FIG. 3. Bookmarkir, page 41.
F'. 4. Towel with
Swedish Weaving, page 62.
FRONTSPIFE.


ΤΙ τιο
F57
Copyright, 1915,
BY LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY,
All rights reserved
C


PREFACE
This course has been arranged for the elementary
schools of Los Angeles, California. It has been
worked out to meet the conditions that exist in that
city and may be taught satisfactorily by the grade
teachers as far as the seventh grade.
A few of the suggestions have already been printed
in the School Arts Magazine and are reprinted through
the courtesy of the publishers. My assistants in the
department have given me many valuable sugges-
tions, and I am also indebted to the art department
for assistance in simple designs.
400m2





TABLE OF CONTENTS
PAGE
PREFACE
V
PART I
GENERAL DIRECTIONS
STITCHES USED IN THE FOURTH GRADE.
STITCHES USED IN THE FIFTH GRADE
UTENSILS AND MATERIALS
1
2
4
16
PART II
OUTLINE OF WORK.
.
Fourth Grade .
Fifth Grade
Sixth Grade
Seventh and Eighth Grades .
27
31
41
53
SUPPLEMENTARY WORK
54





LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Doilies, Sewing Case, Bookmarker, Towel with Swedish
Weaving. Full Page :
Frontispiece
PAGE
7
.
8
11
13
15
28
.
Hemming Stitch as it looks on the Right Side .
Hemming Stitch as it looks on the Wrong Side, and How
to Join the Thread
Top Sewing-needle in Position
Buttonhole.
Felled Seam
Pinwheel, Needle Case, Sewing Bag, Laundry Bag, Holder,
Towel. Full Page
Doll's Sunbonnet showing Squares Cut Out and One Side
Overcast
Stocking Darning
Draft of Sewing Apron
Cooking Apron
Fifth and Sixth Grade Bags. Full Page
Diagram of Cross Stitch Bag
Draft for Cap
Dusting Cap
Supplementary Work. Designs in Cross Stitch and Em-
broidery for Underwear. Full Page :
Inside of Magazine Cover
Laundry Bag
Rubber Bag showing Feather-stitching with Needle in
Position
Pattern for Apron, One-eighth Size
Fancy Apron, One-eighth Size .
Pattern for Front and Side Gore of Skirt .
31
36
38
42
46
46
50
51
.
54
56
57
.
58
61
68
69
.
.
.
.





A HANDBOOK OF
ELEMENTARY SEWING
PART I
GENERAL DIRECTIONS
The pupil should provide herself with the following
articles :
A bag or box in which to keep everything.
One paper of Milward's needles Nos. 3 to 9.
One paper of crewel needles No. 4.
A pair of small scissors.
A tape measure.
A spool of white thread, Clark's or Coats's, No. 70.
A steel or silver thimble.
The thread should be marked with the name of the
owner, and the scissors should have a tag with the
owner's name written upon it.
See that the hands are perfectly clean.
Let the light come from behind and over the left
shoulder if possible.
Always work with a thimble that fits the finger.
When obliged to take out stitches, use the eye-end
of the needle and pick out one stitch at a time.
1


2 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
If left-handed, work with the left hand, unless the
parents are unwilling.
Be sure that nothing is left unfinished at the end of
the term.
STITCHES USED IN THE FOURTH GRADE
Basting. There are two kinds of basting that are
commonly used: the even and the uneven. For both
the work should be held in the same way. Place the
work over the forefinger of the left hand and work
from right to left.
Uneven Basting. Tie a knot in the thread. Take
a small stitch one eighth of an inch long, carry the
needle on half an inch, take another eighth-inch stitch.
Continue in the same manner. Fasten with two small
stitches taken over each other.
This is used for simple decoration and for a tempo-
rary fastening for seams or hems where no strain comes.
Even Basting. Thread as before; make the stitches
all one fourth of an inch in length; fasten as before.
This is used for seams where any strain may come,
and also by very young children for simple decoration.
Overcasting. Hold work over the left forefinger,
working from right to left. Fasten thread with two
small stitches on the wrong side of the cloth. Place
the needle one eighth of an inch below the edge or fold;
point the needle to the left shoulder; take the next
stitch one fourth of an inch to the left; continue to
the end of the seam; fasten with two small stitches.


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 3
Running Stitch. Fasten the thread with two small
stitches. Carry the needle forward one sixteenth of
an inch and take one sixteenth of an inch stitch through
the cloth. Continue these even stitches.
In gathering, use the running stitch but tie a small,
firm knot in the thread before beginning. In running,
hold the work in both hands and take several stitches
before drawing the needle through the cloth.
Blanket Stitch. The blanket stitch is used for
finishing raw edges, for working the loop and the
bar used in buttonholes, and for simple embroidery.
It is worked from left to right; the buttonhole stitch
from right to left.
The depth of the stitch and the space between the
stitches may be varied and will depend upon its use.
Great care must be taken in joining and in fastening
the thread, or the edge will be uneven. To fasten the
thread used in blanket stitching, turn to the wrong
side, take a couple of running stitches under the last
blanket stitch, draw the needle through, and cut off
the thread. To join the thread, run the needle in
under the last stitch, as in the beginning of the work,
and draw it out over the thread that lies along the
edge.
For Canvas or Heavy Cloth. Insert the needle on the
wrong side at a point the desired depth of the blanket
stitch and take two or three running stitches to the edge
of the cloth; this will bring the thread in position for
the first stitch. Make the first blanket stitch over


2 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
If left-handed, work with the left hand, unless the
parents are unwilling.
Be sure that nothing is left unfinished at the end of
the term.
STITCHES USED IN THE FOURTH GRADE
Basting. There are two kinds of basting that are
commonly used: the even and the uneven. For both
the work should be held in the same way. Place the
work over the forefinger of the left hand and work
from right to left.
Uneven Basting. Tie a knot in the thread. Take
a small stitch one eighth of an inch long, carry the
needle on half an inch, take another eighth-inch stitch.
Continue in the same manner. Fasten with two small
stitches taken over each other.
This is used for simple decoration and for a tempo-
rary fastening for seams or hems where no strain comes.
Even Basting. Thread as before; make the stitches
all one fourth of an inch in length; fasten as before.
This is used for seams where any strain may come,
and also by very young children for simple decoration.
Overcasting. Hold work over the left forefinger,
working from right to left. Fasten thread with two
small stitches on the wrong side of the cloth. Place
the needle one eighth of an inch below the edge or fold;
point the needle to the left shoulder; take
take the next
stitch one fourth of an inch to the left; continue to
the end of the seam; fasten with two small stitches.


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 5
small stitches. Hold the work over the left forefinger
and work from right to left.
Half-back stitching is the same as stitching, except
that the needle is put only half way back, thus leaving
a small space between the stitches. Both of these
stitches may be used where strength is required, or on
garments too small to be stitched easily on the machine.
Hemming. A hem is a fold made by turning the
edge of the cloth over twice and then sewing it down.
The first fold must be very carefully turned; if that is
even, there will be very little trouble with the second
turning. Trim the edge of the cloth before turning the
hem. Make the first turning very narrow, about one
fourth of an inch, or, better still, one eighth of an inch,
unless the material is very difficult to turn. Use a
measure for all hems except the very narrow. Baste
near the edge of the fold with uneven basting stitches.
Have no knot in the thread; hold the cloth across the
cushion of the left forefinger ; pointing the needle from
you, insert it at the edge of the fold, one fourth of an
inch from the right end, and bring it out close to the end.
Draw the needle through very carefully and leave half
an inch of the thread to be tucked under the edge of the
hem with the point of the needle. Take up two threads
of the cloth and set the needle into the edge of the hem,
keeping the needle in a line with the hem and pointing
to the left shoulder. Be sure that all stitches slant.
To Join the Thread. If there is no end left, pick out
a few stitches. With the needle draw the end under the


6 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
fold and toward the thumb. Begin with a new needle-
ful, as when commencing the work, and put the needle
into the last hole from which the short end came out,
sewing both ends down with the next few stitches.
Featherstitching. The featherstitch is an ornamen-
tal stitch; it must be evenly done or it is worse than no
stitch at all. This stitch consists of two parallel rows
of alternating stitches, or groups of stitches, slanting
toward the center. Keep the same length of stitch
and the same slant.
Single Featherstitching. Work toward you, holding
the work over the left forefinger. Insert the needle
from the under side a short distance to the right or left
of the line to be followed and draw the thread through.
Place the left thumb over the thread to hold it down, and
on the opposite side of the center line, take up a slanting
stitch; the top of the stitch is as far from the center
line as the length of the stitch, and the bottom touches
the center line. Draw the needle out over the thread,
which will in this way form a loop of the thread from
the first stitch. On the opposite side, take up another
slanting stitch, the top of which is an equal distance
from the center line and even with the bottom of the
last stitch. Repeat for successive stitches. At the
end of a thread, fasten by passing the needle down
where the thread last came through the cloth, thus
holding the loop from the last stitch in place. Fasten
the thread on the wrong side by taking a few running
stitches through one thickness of cloth. Begin a new


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 7
thread by passing the needle up through the loop from
the last stitch.
Double Featherstitching. This is made by doubling
the number of stitches on either side, or by using groups
of three stitches alternately. Be very careful that the
stitches of each group are placed exactly under each
other.
Outline Stitch. Fasten with two back stitches,
keeping the thread above the needle, – that is, to the
left; then take up with the needle an eighth of an inch
of cloth and bring the needle out through the hole
made in starting the stitch. Be careful not to pierce
the thread. Proceed in the same manner.
On the
wrong side the stitch should look like back stitch.
Hemstitching. Several different methods of hem-
stitching are used, and any one of them will prove
satisfactory if well done.
SHOWING THE WORK WITH THE HEMMING STITCH AS IT LOOKS
ON THE RIGHT SIDE.


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 9
A Second Method. Pointing the needle toward you,
and holding the thread under the left thumb, take
up three or four cross threads on the needle. Draw the
needle out over the thread, thus forming a loop, and
tight enough to separate the cross threads. Insert
the needle under the edge of the hem only and take an
ordinary hemming stitch. Continue along the hem in
the same manner.
Seed Stitch. This stitch is used for finishing hems
in an ornamental manner or where a simple, effective
touch is desired.
Take three short stitches (an eighth of an inch) over
each other; one back stitch going forward one fourth
of an inch beyond the last stitch; back one eighth of an
inch; sew over twice; forward as before.
Use embroidery cotton to develop this stitch.
Sewing on Lace. When sewing lace to an edge,
always hold the lace next to you. Lace may be sewed
on straight, or it may be gathered. At the top of most
laces a coarse thread may be found woven into the lace
for the purpose of gathering. Before drawing up this
thread, divide the lace into fourths; pin, with right
sides together, at point of division. Draw up the
thread, arranging the gathers evenly, and top sew to the
edge with fine, even stitches. If the lace is to be put
on plain, hold it loosely to the edge and top sew.
Sewing Lace around a Corner. When sewing lace on
plain, to sew around the corner, top sew to a point as
far from the corner as the width of the lace. Measure


10
A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
from this point on the lace twice the width of the lace
and pin to the corner. Measure an equal distance
from the corner on the lace and pin to the other side.
Continue top sewing from this point and leave the
corner until later. When the rest is all done, run a
gathering thread into the corners, arrange the gathers
evenly, and top sew as usual.
Sewing Lace around a Corner (Gathered). When sew-
ing lace around a corner, proceed as before, with this
exception: the same fullness must be allowed on the
corner that is allowed on the straight edge, in addition
to that required for rounding the corner without draw-
ing; allow two and one half times the width of the lace
instead of twice the width.
Sewing Two 'Ends of Lace Together. If the lace has
a pattern, cut it with the pattern; lay one edge over
the other and buttonhole over each raw edge with fine
thread, or place the right sides of the lace together and
in
a narrow seam; lay the seam flat and buttonhole
over the raw edge and at the same time down on the
lace. If desired, turn a narrow fold in one piece of the
lace to the right side and in the other piece to the wrong
side; slip one under the other and hem down the two
edges.
Herringbone or Catch Stitch. “ The herringbone
stitch is a cross-stitch used as a finish on flannel edges
or on heavy material. The stitch consists of single,
alternating, running stitches, made first to the left and
then to the right, from you instead of toward you as in
sew


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 11
ordinary sewing. The thread, being carried across
from one stitch to another, gives the appearance of a
cross-stitch. The stitches on each side must be in
straight rows, with the outer row just over the edge of
the material. Point the needle toward you in making
the stitch, but work from you. In catch stitching a
small knot may be used, if it can be concealed. Fasten
the thread by running it in and out and under the last
stitch.”
Top Sewing. “Top sewing is used for joining two
folded edges or two selvages. Hold the work between
TOP SEWING-NEEDLE IN POSITION.
the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, the seam
parallel with the finger. Leave one half an inch of
thread after making a shallow stitch through one edge
of the cloth, the needle pointing toward the chest.
Lay this end of thread on top of the seam so that it may
be sewed down by the next few stitches. Pointing the
needle toward the chest, put it through both edges,
taking up as little cloth as possible. The stitches should
be slanting on the upper side and straight on the under
side of the cloth. Work from right to left. To finish


12 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
the seam, sew back over the last few stitches. To join
the thread, leave half an inch of the old thread and half
an inch of the new thread, place both together on the
seam, and sew over them as you go on in the work.”
Selvage edges are sewed together in making pillow
and bolster cases. When one edge has become stretched
and is longer than the other, baste with the long edge
toward the sewer, the seam held around the forefinger
of the left hand.
Combination Stitch. The combination stitch con-
sists of three little running stitches and a back stitch
over the last running stitch. Take three running
stitches on the needle and pull it through. Take up
the last running stitch for the first of the next group of
three stitches. This is a little stronger than the running
stitch.
Couching Stitch. Place a coarse thread on the line
desired and sew it in place with six or seven stitches to
the inch, so that the over-seam may lie at right angles
to the couching thread. Use either an overcasting or a
simple blanket stitch.
Chain Stitch. Bring the needle out from underneath,
hold the thread down with the left thumb, put the
needle down again in the hole through which you
brought it out, take up one fourth of an inch of the
goods, and draw the needle through, over the loop of
thread. This gives the first link in the chain. Put the
needle down at the end of this first loop and continue
as before.


14 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
as widely as possible over your finger and work around
the corner as if it were a straight edge.
Make second side like first. At the end place three
cross-stitches, each as long as the threads of the button-
hole are deep, and buttonhole over these, bringing each
stitch through the cloth.
If desired, the buttonholes may be made with a bar
at either end, or both ends may be rounded.
Buttons. In sewing on flat buttons, insert the needle
from the right side and back in order to hide the knot
under the button. Place the button in position and
hold a large pin or needle across the button to lengthen
the stitches. Put in five or six stitches diagonally
across the button and over the pin, keeping the stitches
as even as possible. Place the pin in the opposite
direction and take five or six stitches as before. Slip
the pin out, pass the needle through the cloth only,
and wind the thread around the threads five or six
times between the button and the cloth. Pass the
needle through the cloth and fasten securely.
Two-hole Buttons. Place the buttons so that the
stitches will come at right angles to the edge of the
cloth, with the pin across the button. Proceed as
before.
Loop Buttons. Place the button in position with the
loop at right angles to the edge of the cloth. Hold
the button with the left hand and top sew the loop
to the cloth. Pass the thread to the under side and
fasten securely.


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 15
Felled Seam. Place two edges of cloth right sides
together, one edge being one fourth of an inch above
the other, and baste. Fold the upper edge over the
lower edge one fourth of an inch and baste one eighth
2
3
स
ą
FELLED SEAM.
of an inch from edge. Sew on upper side just below the
basting with a fine combination or back stitch.
Take out the basting thread and lay the seam over
so that the raw edge is covered, press carefully with the


16 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
finger exactly at the sewing of the seam, baste on the
right side one sixteenth inch from seam.
Hem the folded edge to the cloth underneath.
French Seam. Baste the two pieces together on the
right side; stitch; trim to one sixteenth of an inch;
turn to the wrong side; crease firmly; baste just below
the raw edges; stitch again. The finished seam should
not measure over one eighth of an inch. The seam may
be used on nearly all underwear and in simple wash
dresses.
Mitered Corners. Two hems crossing each other at
right angles may be finished with either the square or
the mitered corner. All hems more than half an inch
in width should be mitered.
Fold and crease the hem carefully. Fold the outer
corner of this hem diagonally across to the inner corner
of the hem and crease very firmly. Open the hem wide
and cut off the corner of the cloth one fourth of an inch
outside of this crease. Fold the hem as before, first
being careful to turn in the upper edge of the mitered
corner so that it will come exactly to the corner of the
hem. Hem this diagonal portion so that no stitches
will show on the right side.
UTENSILS AND MATERIALS
Thimbles. The thimble is worn upon the second
finger of the right hand to protect the finger from the
eye of the needle. It should be worn always when


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 17
sewing. If possible, learn to push the needle from
the side of the thimble instead of from the top.
The first thimbles were made from iron and brass,
but now gold, silver, aluminum, celluloid, and steel are
used. Most of the aluminum thimbles prove unsatis-
factory in wearing qualities, and the brass ones dis-
color the finger; for general home wear the silver
thimble will prove the best.
Scissors. Scissors should be in every work-box or
bag. Select a good pair in the beginning, and they will
last through the entire course. Any reliable hardware
store will carry one or two satisfactory makes. The
Boker, the Wiss, and the Keen Kutter are all good, and
there are many others. Be sure that you have a pair
joined just tightly enough; if too loose, the blades will
slip past each other; if too tight, they will be hard to
open. Keep your scissors well sharpened at all times.
Shears with blades less than six inches long are usually
called scissors.
Needles. A needle is a small, pointed instrument
used for carrying thread through material. It has
been used since the earliest times. The present ones
are made from steel wire, but in ancient times they were
made from fish-bones, ivory, and bronze. The regular
sewing needle is made in several different styles called
“ground-downs," " betweens," and "sharps.”
The sharps are slender and long with a small eye.
The betweens are slender and short with a small
eye.


20 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
earliest history speaks of an Indian plant “which pro-
duces wool of a finer and better quality than that of
sheep,” and we know that in India, Persia, Egypt, and
China, cotton garments have been used for thousands of
years.
The plant seems to grow in the warm regions of both
continents. When Columbus landed in South America,
he found the shrub growing wild and the natives making
garments and fishing-nets from the fibers. The lint
was used for making beds, and in Mexico, in the six-
teenth century, garments, tapestries, and bedspreads
were made from the cotton.
In the United States, cotton was first discovered in
the section which is now the states of Louisiana and
Texas. As soon as the colonists arrived in Virginia
they began to plant the seeds of the cotton plant. For
a number of years cotton was raised as a garden plant
only, but by 1775 the Southern people began to plant it
in larger quantities, and soon it was beginning to take
the place of that imported. The trustees of the col-
onies did not encourage the manufacture of the home-
grown cotton for fear that it would interfere with the
English manufacturing, but when the Revolutionary
War cut off the imports of European manufacture, the
Americans began to make their own cotton goods.
The cotton, at first, was difficult to clean; the clean-
ing was all done by hand, and the result of a whole
day's work was only one pound of cotton. Often the
whole family worked at it in the evening. Later,


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 21
machinery came into use, and then the raising of cotton
for commercial purposes increased rapidly.
At first all the cotton was short staple, or upland cot-
ton. After the Revolutionary War, some sea-island
cotton was. planted in the tide-water section of Georgia.
This cotton has a longer, stronger, more silky fiber and
can be spun into long, silky threads. It is used in
making fine cotton goods and in lace and thread.
Of all the kinds of cloth, cotton cloth is the most
common and the least expensive. Bed linen, so called,
window draperies, underwear, light-weight dresses,
and indeed many dresses of heavier weight, may be
made satisfactorily from cotton materials.
The best materials for underwear are long cloth of
average weight, cambric, fine muslin, and, for very fine
material, nainsook of good quality. Of all these,
bleached muslin is the least expensive and will wear
well, but it is harder to work upon, coarser in texture,
and less pleasing to wear. English long cloth of
medium cost, or a good grade of cambric, make the
most satisfactory garments. Batiste and nainsook are
too sheer to wear well and are often too sheer to look
well.
If nainsook is purchased, get that made from sea-
island cotton, if possible, as this is stronger and will
wear longer. The makes of cotton cloth vary in dif-
ferent sections of the country, and each person should
learn to know those in her own town or city. I have
found the Imperial and Princess makes of English long


22 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
cloth to be perfectly satisfactory for fine use; the
Glasgow has given good satisfaction for common wear;
the Berkeley cambric has worn very well, and the
Imperial sea-island nainsook has been unusually good.
Do not buy a cheap nainsook or long cloth, for it will
be so much money thrown away. Instead, get the
best grade of muslin you can afford. For long cloth
to wear at all well, you must pay at least fifteen to
seventeen cents per yard and for the nainsook not less
than twenty-five cents.
Study your muslin until you can recognize a good,
soft grade. When it is at all stiff, rub between your
fingers and see if it is full of starch; if it is, the starch
will fall out. This grade of muslin you should avoid,
for there is no body to it.
Percale and domestic ginghams will prove very
satisfactory for everyday wash dresses. The percale
is really a firm, bleached muslin with a pattern stamped
upon it. This cloth comes from thirty-two to thirty-
six inches wide, costs from twelve and one half to
fifteen cents per yard and, because of its width, cuts to
good advantage. The price is higher than calico, but
the firmer weave and greater width make it less expen-
sive for many purposes. Avoid the dark blue, the so-
called indigo, with the white spots, if you wish good
wearing material. The white spots or stripes are made,
usually, by first dyeing the cloth blue and then bleach-
ing the design. By this method the strength of the
cloth is eaten up by the bleaching process.


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 23
Gingham is a material with the pattern woven into
the cloth. The domestic grades, those made in the
United States, come in widths varying from twenty-
seven to thirty-two inches. The grade that corre-
sponds to percale in price is usually twenty-seven inches
wide. All ginghams will cut to better advantage if
the material is shrunk before making into garments.
Wash in clear, warm water and dry.
Colored wash goods should be tested for fast
colors before buying. Take a sample home, wash
with soap and warm water, and hang in the sun to
dry.
Wool. Wool comes from the sheep. When the
fleece is removed by a skillful person, it holds together
and looks like the skin of an animal. It is sent to the
factory thus and there sorted into the different grades
of wool. The best grade of wool comes from the
shoulders and sides of the sheep. The natural wool
contains a greasy matter which helps to preserve it.
This is washed out after the fleece is sorted. After
this thorough washing, the wool is made into woolens
and worsteds.
Woolens are made usually from short staple wool,
and the fibers are frequently crossed and mixed. The
worsteds are made from the long staple wool, and the
fibers usually lie parallel. The worsteds are dressier
fabrics, and the patterns seem clearly woven with
threads easily seen; serge is an example of this style.
Woolens have threads less easily distinguished, and the


24 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
result is softer and more indistinct; flannel, tweed, and
eiderdown are woolens.
The simplest test for wool is that of burning. The
odor of the animal fiber is like that of hair, and the fibers
burn much more slowly than do the cotton ones.
More ash is always formed from the wool than from the
cotton.
Woolen material is used for baby's underwear and
where much warmth is desired. It is expensive and
must remain so, because of the cost of raising the sheep.
A little of the best quality of wool is raised in the
United States, but the greater part of it has to be im-
ported. Of this Australia sends us the larger portion.
Linen. Linen is made from the fibers of the flax
plant. It has been used for thousands of years, and
nothing has yet been found that will give the same
satisfaction for use where high luster and good wearing
qualities are desired.
Linen is used largely for table linen, handkerchiefs,
dress material, and toweling. It absorbs moisture more
readily and keeps white under constant washing more
easily than cotton, hence should be used for hand and
dish towels. In the rich damask weaves used in table
linen, its high luster makes it not only very beautiful,
but also causes it to shed the soil much more readily.
Its tendency to wrinkle makes it rather unsatisfactory
for common dresses, but it remains popular because
of its coolness and its fine wearing qualities.
Linen is always expensive and must remain so, be-


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 25
cause of the cost of raising it and preparing it for weav-
ing. A small amount of flax is raised in the United
States, but the greater part of it comes from abroad.
Mercerized cotton is often mixed with the linen, and
the result is sold for pure linen. Experts in linen tell
me that the adulteration is so skillfully done that the
ordinary person cannot detect it. We must depend
very largely upon the honesty of our dealers; however,
a few tests may be used with fair success:
Linen threads break unevenly with a pointed end.
Rub a linen fabric between your fingers, and the
surface will feel much smoother than a cotton surface.
Linen fibers lie parallel when untwisted; cotton
show many directions.
Burn linen threads, and they remain compact and
even; cotton will spread apart.
Linen washed, dried, immersed in concentrated sul-
phuric acid for two minutes, then washed again and
dried between filter paper, will remain practically the
Cotton will be dissolved.
Butcher's linen is a very coarse, heavy weave used
for aprons and dress skirts. Linen cambric is much
used for handkerchiefs. Damask is used for fine
towels, tablecloths, and napkins.
same.








A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 29
Pinwheel
MATERIALS. Cardboard; cretonne or brown linen;
colored crochet cotton; No. 7 sewing needle; No. 60
or 70 white thread.
DIRECTIONS. Cut two circles of cardboard each two
and a half inches in diameter. Cut two circles of the
cloth each half an inch larger than the cardboard.
Using the white thread and the sewing needle, gather
the cloth one fourth of an inch from the edge; place
each piece of cardboard upon each piece of cloth and
draw the thread up as firmly as possible; with long
stitches from side to side fasten the cloth firmly in
place. Place the two pieces together, raw edges inside,
and sew with top-sewing stitches all around the edge.
If desired, the edge may be finished with double over-
casting as in the sewing bag. Baby ribbon may be
added as a further decoration.
Doll's Comfortable
MATERIALS. Two pieces of fine cheesecloth eight
inches by ten inches; one piece of sheet wadding nine
by seven; white or colored crochet cotton; white
thread No. 60 or 70; sewing needle No. 7; crewel
needle No. 5; white darning cotton or Germantown.
DIRECTIONS. Arrange half the wadding (which will
easily split) upon each piece of the cheesecloth, leaving
the edge of the cloth even upon each side. Baste in
position, using the uneven basting stitch. Turn the


30 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
cheesecloth over to the edge of the wadding and baste
down; place the two raw edges (that is, the sides having
raw edges) together evenly, the cotton inside, and pin
in place; baste close to the edge with even basting
stitches. Thread the crewel needle with the crochet
cotton and blanket stitch around the entire edge, as in
the needle case.
One inch from the side and one and
one half inches from the end place the needle through the
comfortable, taking up an eighth of an inch stitch;
cut off the thread, leaving the ends about one and one
half inches long; tie once. Fold darning cotton or
Germantown four times; cut into inch lengths; place
one length (fourfold) across the knot of the crochet
cotton; which then tie securely with a double knot;
trim off the ends evenly, leaving them about three
eighths of an inch long. Repeat every one and a half
inches. There should be four of these tackings, as
they are called, in a row and five rows.


FIFTH GRADE
Doll's Sunbonnet
MATERIALS. Gingham. Size twelve inches wide by
seven inches long; white thread No. 70; No. 8 needle;
twenty inches white tape, fourth of an inch wide.
DIRECTIONS. Fold the goods lengthwise, edges to-
gether; from the folded edges measure across three and
12 inches
3 inches
3 inches
7 inches (fold)
3 inches
31 inches
DOLL'S SUNBONNET SHOWING SQUARES CUT OUT AND OND
SIDE OVERCAST.
one half inches; cut out a three and one half inch
square; overcast the cut edges; turn an eighth of an
inch seam and top sew these two edges together on each
31


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 33
Turn bag on right side and press out the corners. Find
the place where the hoop is joined together: notch on
both sides of this place; place the hoop in hot water,
and it will come apart; then run the hoop through
the hems and tie it together again with a thread or
string. Make a bow at each end of the ribbon. Sew
these two bows at the ends of the bag; arrange the
gathers evenly and sew a tassel to each corner of the
bag.
TO MAKE THE TASSELS. Cut the skein of D. M. C.;
remove two long threads; cut the remainder into
fourths; fold the fourths evenly; thread one long
strand into a crewel needle and tie the middle of one
folded fourth with it: fold again evenly; bring the
needle up from below through the knot and put back
close to where it came out, leaving a loop half an inch
long. Bring the needle out three eighths of an inch
from the loop and wind the thread firmly around all
the threads six times; slip the needle under and up
through the middle of the tassel and draw firmly; cut.
Holder
MATERIALS. Gingham or calico seven inches square.
Two squares. No. 8 needle. No. 70 white thread,
piece of narrow tape six inches long; white darning
cotton.
DIRECTIONS. Ask the children to bring some old,
soft cloth from home and use this for filling. Take
three thicknesses, if thin, and cut to a six-inch square.


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
35
DIRECTIONS. Turn a half-inch hem on all four sides
of the scrim. (Be sure to turn the opposite sides first.)
Baste with even basting stitches. On the right side
outline stitch the hem, being careful to keep on the edge
of the hem. Find the middle of the scrim, and mark
with a pencil. Measure out, making a rectangle half
an inch wide by one inch long, the longer side of the
rectangle parallel with the longer side of the scrim.
Half an inch out from the edge of the shorter side of the
rectangle bring the crewel needle threaded with the
cotton up from the wrong side, pass over one thread
and take a half-inch stitch on the wrong side of the
scrim, bring the needle through the scrim and take an
inch stitch on the right side, pass the needle under
half an inch on the wrong side, and bring again to the
right; pass over one thread and go back in the same
manner. Continue in this way until the rectangle is
covered with these long threads. Threading the
needle with the other color of embroidery or crochet
cotton, bring it up at right angles with the long threads
and half an inch from the edge of them and take one
tiny stitch; pass over half an inch on the wrong side,
bring the needle through to the right, and weave in and
out, over and under the long threads; then pass the
needle into the scrim, bring it out on the wrong side,
take a half-inch stitch, pass over two threads, and go
back in the same manner; continue until the entire
space has been woven over. Be careful in weaving
the second time to pass over the threads that you passed


36 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
under the first time. Fasten with two small stitches
on the wrong side. Over the tiny stitches that you
made half an inch beyond the weaving, make three
rows of outline stitch, using the two colors of em-
broidery cotton.
Make a cushion to fit this cover, or bring a cushion
from home and make the cover to fit it.
Stocking Darning
Bring stockings from home. Place a darning-ball or
a piece of firm cardboard under the hole to be darned.
Match the darning cotton to the color of the stocking.
If the stocking is fine, use
one strand of the cotton; if
coarse, use two strands. On
a line with the center of the
hole, and half an inch from
its edge, place the needle in
the cloth and run with very
fine stitches to the edge of
the hole. Pass the needle
STOCKING DARNING.
across the hole, under the raw
edge on the opposite side, and
make one fourth of an inch of fine running stitches.
Start back close to this row and repeat the same
thing, being careful that you pass over the raw edge
that you passed under before. Continue until half the
hole is covered and then run the fine stitches one
fourth of an inch beyond into the stocking. This


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 37
makes the darn firmer and less likely to pull out. Do
the other half in the same manner.
When the warp
threads are all in, begin in the middle with the woof
threads. Use fine running stitches to the edge of the
hole as before. Then weave under and over as in the
cushion-top, keeping the stitches near enough to make
a firm, close weave. Fasten as with the
Fasten as with the warp threads
by running into the stocking one fourth of an inch.
Directions for Drafting
Use firm brown paper if possible; if nothing else is
available, buy some from the grocer.
Begin in the upper, right-hand corner.
Down means toward the bottom of the paper.
OUT means toward the left-hand side of the paper.
Upmeans from the bottom toward the top of the paper.
Make all measurements very carefully.
Yardsticks will be of great assistance if they can be
obtained. Be very careful when making the free-
hand curves.
Sewing Apron
DRAFT. Measure down on straight edge of paper 17
inches and mark 1 at top and 2 at bottom.
Down from 1 measure 1 inch and mark
3
Out
6 inches
4
2
3
5
5
6
8
7
.
56
.
$6
.
11
8


38 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
Connect 4 and 8 with a straight line.
Down from 4 on line 4-8 measure 8 inches and mark 9
Up from 8 on line 4-8
6
10
Connect 5 and 1, 6 and 1, 7 and 1, 8 and 1, 10 and
1, by straight lines. Connect 3 and 4 by a down curve.
10
13
DRAFT OF SEWING APRON.
.
.
Measure up on line 6–1 inch and mark 11
7-1 22 inches “
12
8-1 5
13
10-1 1 inch
14
Draw a curved line from 9 through 14, 13, 12, 11, to 5.
Cut on the curved line 3-4, then down through 4, 9, 14,
13, 12, 11, 5 to 2.
If a larger apron is desired, make the following
changes when drafting the pattern.


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 39
66
.
Lengthen the line 1–2 4 inches and mark
A
4-8 41
B
Connect A and B with a straight line.
Lengthen lines 1-5, 1-6, and 1-7 to the line A-B.
Mark these lines 5a, 6a, and 7a.
Measure up from 5a 1 inch and mark
С
6a 14 inches
D
7a 43
E
8 23
F
Draw a downward curve from 10 through F, E, D, C,
to A.
.
.
.
.
When drafting for a stout girl, measure out five
inches instead of six at the top of the draft and carry
the line 1-2 down one inch lower, as shown in the dotted
lines in the illustration. Cut on the dotted lines.
To CUT THE APRON. Fold the goods lengthwise,
making the fold just wide enough to fit the widest part
of the pattern. Be sure that the warp threads are
perfectly straight. Pin the pattern with the straight
edge exactly on the fold and the top to the edge of
the goods. Pin firmly along the edges. Cut exactly
to the pattern. Leave the fold uncut. Remove the
pattern, open the cloth, and the apron is ready to
be made.
MATERIALS. Three fourths of a yard of lawn, ,
dimity, or batiste. One and three fourths or two yards
of narrow lace. (The imitation Armenian is the most
satisfactory.) One skein of embroidery cotton,


40 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
O. N. T. or D. M. C., No. 25, one strand. Number 70
white thread. Sewing needles, about Nos. 5 and 8.
DIRECTIONS. Turn a very narrow hem, three six-
teenths of an inch, all around the apron. Baste with
even basting stitches. With the embroidery cotton,
featherstitch over this hem. (Be sure that this feather-
stitching is very fine, for it must take the place of the
usual hemming.) Top sew the lace around the finished
edge, holding the lace next to you and taking very fine,
close stitches. Cut a piece of cloth lengthwise, making
it two inches wide and two inches longer than the waist
measure taken loosely. Find the middle of the apron
at the top and mark with a pin; find the middle of the
band; pin the middle of the apron to the middle of the
band, keeping the band on the right side of the apron.
Baste with even basting stitches. Stitch. Turn the
band over, crease a fourth of an inch fold on the edge,
and baste this down firmly on the wrong side just over
the stitching, and hem. Top sew the edges that
extend beyond the apron. A button and buttonhole
may be used to finish it, if the pupils are able to make
them well.
-


SIXTH GRADE
Book Marker
MATERIALS. Linen-colored chambray or gingham;
red or brown ribbon; brown twist, red D. M. C. em-
broidery or red tambo cotton; No. 7 needle; No. 5
crewel needle; linen-colored thread.
DIRECTIONS. Cut linen about three inches by six
inches. Fold in one eighth of an inch on all sides.
Fold the edges together lengthwise and baste with
even basting stitches. Top sew fine, using linen-
colored thread. One inch from the top cut a button-
hole across the marker, in the center, three fourths of an
inch long. Make a buttonhole, following the directions
given, using either the twist or the cotton. Half an
inch below cut another buttonhole parallel, and work
as before. One inch from the bottom cut another but-
tonhole and work in the same way. Half an inch above,
cut and make one more. Through these buttonholes
run twelve inches of half-inch ribbon the same color
that the buttonholes are worked in.
41


42 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
Cooking Apron. Medium Size
1
DRAFT. Find waist measure and skirt length.
Mark upper, right-hand corner of paper.
Out from 1 measure one third of waist measure and
mark
Down from 1 measure 2 inches and mark
Connect 2 and 3 with a down curved line.
2
3
COOKING APRON.
.
66
66
.
Down from 3 measure skirt length and mark
Out
4
14 inches
on line 4-5 measure 4 inches
from 6 measure 3 inches and mark
3
4
5
6
7
8
.
or 7


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 43
9
10
11
Out from 8 measure 3 inches and mark
Connect 2 and 5 by a straight line.
Up from 5 on line 2–5 measure 4 inches and mark
Find one third of line 2–5, and add 5 inches to this
length. Measure down this length from 2 on
line 2-5 and mark
Connect 1 and 7 by a straight line. Do the same
with 1 and 8, 1 and 9, 1 and 5, 1 and 10.
Up from 7 on line 1-7 measure i inch and mark
8
1-8
2 inches
9
1-9
33
5 1-5
43
10 1-10
2
Draw a free-hand curve from 11 through 16, 15,
14, 13, 12, to 6.
12
13
14
15
16
so
Mark upper,
1
DRAFT FOR THE BIB.
upper, right-hand
corner
1
Down from 1 measure 214 inches and mark
2
Out
9
3
2
9
4
Up from 2 on line 1-2 measure 3 inches and mark 5
6
6
9
101
8
12
9
14
10
18
12
66
so
7
co
16
11


44 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
.
so
66
66
.
os
56
56
so
.
.
66
•
co
.
.
co
.
Up from 2 on line 8–9 measure 20 inches and mark
13
Out from 2 measure 44 inches and mark
14
5
53
15
7
16
7
8
17
8
82
18
9
21
19
9
81
20
10
41
21
11
43
22
11
88
23
12
37
24
12
8
25
13
3
26
13
7
27
41
28
Draw a curving line from 28 through 26, 24, 22,
21, 19, to 8.
Draw a second curving line from 28 through 27,
25, 23, 20, 18, 17, 16, 15, 14. Cut on the line
2-14, and then on the curving lines, 8–28,
14-28.
If a longer bib is needed, lengthen at the bottom
from one to two inches.
co
.
56 56
1
DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING THE APRONS. Use per-
cale that is thirty-six inches wide and has a small
figure on a white ground. The directions show you
how to cut two aprons at the same time.) Fold the




00000
Fifth and Sixth Grade Bags.


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
47
half inches on the selvage. Make the checked gingham
the width the design requires and twenty inches long.
Baste the checked gingham upon the plain at such a
distance from top as to have the pattern come about
two inches from lower edges. Work out a design pre-
viously made in the drawing department. Cut the
lining exactly the same width and length as the outside;
from the remainder cut a piece three inches long by
five and a half inches wide; turn in the edges a fourth
of an inch; place this evenly on one side of the lining
and fasten with firm couching stitches, using the D.
M. C.; use three strands to couch over. For position
see diagram given.
Divide this piece into two pockets with the couching.
Join the lining and the outside with the machine
stitching, raw edges together, first the top and then
the sides. Cut from tag board or cardboard two circles
three and a half inches in diameter. (If cardboard is
used, four thicknesses will be required.) Cover each
piece of cardboard with the cloth, cutting the covering
one inch larger than the board. Place these circular
pieces together, raw edges inside, and baste. Gather
the bottom of the bag and top sew on to the circular
pieces on the inside of the bag. Make a half-inch
casing one inch from the top of the bag by running two
rows of fine combination stitch half an inch apart.
Make two cords from the D. M. C. and run them into
the casing. If D. M. C. No. 25 is used, take three
strands for cross-stitching, and six strands for cord.


48 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
Work Apron
MATERIALS. Chambray, gingham, or dark calico.
Bias binding No. 4 or No. 5 A simple Butterick or
Ladies Home Journal pattern having no sleeves, a
round neck, and shoulder and under-arm seams only.
DIRECTIONS. Select the pattern and then buy the
amount of goods required. Cut by pattern, allowing
a two-inch seam. Make a French seam at all seams.
Finish neck and armhole with the bias binding or facing.
Make a one-inch hem up the back and a two-inch hem
at the bottom. If a more decorative apron is desired,
a simple embroidery stitch may be used on the hems.
Seed stitch, outline stitch, or chain stitch would be
satisfactory. If the top is thus finished, let the hem be
done by hand.
A still daintier apron may be made from white dimity
or a fine, delicate gingham or batiste.
Princess Slip
MATERIALS. Ladies Home Journal pattern No.
8091 or any style that is simple and unfitted. Long
cloth of good grade, from two and one half yards to
three yards, according to the size of the girl. White
thread No. 70 and No. 90. Needles No. 8 and No. 9.
White D. M. C. or 0. N. T. No. 25. Narrow lace edge
at neck and sleeves, either hand or machine made.
For flounce one and one third times the width of skirt,
- long cloth or embroidery.


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 49
DIRECTIONS. Cut according to pattern. Finish
with French seams. Turn an eighth-inch hem at neck;
one-inch hems at back. Set in sleeve with French
seam, and finish with an eighth-inch hem. Divide
the flounce into fourths; use a separate thread to gather
each fourth and knot the thread at both ends. (Use
the coarser thread.) Place one row of gathers an
eighth of an inch from the edge of the goods, the second
row an eighth of an inch below the first. Be careful
that the second row of stitches is exactly under the first.
Draw each fourth up as close as possible and pull the
gathers gently until they are even and smooth.
For directions for placket, see under “Skirt.” Carry
the placket nine inches below the normal waist line.
Divide the slip in fourths at the bottom. Bring the
edge of the flounce to the edge of the slip wrong sides
together. Pin at the divisions in fourths. Arrange
the gathers evenly and baste to slip with even basting
between the rows of gathers. Stitch. Place the lower
edge of the bias fold exactly over the lower row of
gathering; baste with even basting; baste the upper
side of bias fold down. Stitch both sides close to the
edge.
The edge of the flounce, if made of the goods, may
be just a plain hem with a narrow lace trimming, or it
may be finished with a simple decorative stitch such
as feather, chain, or seed stitch. Let the same stitch
be used at neck and sleeves. Finish the back with
buttons and buttonholes.


50 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
One-piece Dress
MATERIALS. Gingham or percale; preferably ging-
ham, because it is softer to work upon. Choose a very
simple pattern from a Butterick fashion book and give
individuality by the style of trimming. Provide
thread, needles, pins, buttons, as for the princess slip.
Use colored O. N. T. or D. M. C. No. 5 or the six strand
No, 25 to harmonize with the material.
DIRECTIONS. Cut according to directions on pattern.
Finish with French seams. If sleeves are set in, bind
with bias folds. Try on before sewing in sleeves or
turning hem. If made up without shrinking, allow
one to two inches for shrinking. Finish with buttons
and buttonholes like the
princess slip. If a round
neck is desired, face on right
side with a narrow fold of the
goods and finish with some
simple embroidery stitch.
1
6
Place on lengthwise fold
Dusting Cap
DRAFT FOR CAP. Draw
a rectangle eight inches by
thirteen inches. Mark the
corners in order 1, 2, 3, 4.
DRAFT FOR CAP.
Divide the long sides into
halves. Mark the point between 1 and 2, 5 and the
one between 3 and 4, 6.
3
2
-
-


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 51
Draw a line diagonally from corner 4 to point 5.
From 4 on this line 4-5 measure three inches and
mark 7.
Gathers
RA
in hem
hem
hет.
way
5 in.
20 in.
Straight piece
DUSTING CAP.
Draw a curved line from corner 1 to point 6, passing
through the diagonal 4-5 at 7.
Starting at 1, cut through the curving line to 7, from
7 through 6 down to 3, from 3 across to 2, from 2 back
to 1. Write on the long straight edge the words “ Place
on lengthwise fold.”
MATERIALS FOR CAP. One piece of gingham or
crêpe fourteen inches long by sixteen inches wide. One
piece of gingham or crêpe twenty inches long by five
inches wide. White or colored D. M. C. No. 5 or No. 8.
No. 8 needle, No. 5 crewel needle, No. 70 white thread.


52 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
DIRECTIONS. Fold the larger piece of gingham so
that it will be eight inches wide by fourteen inches long.
Place the long straight edge of the pattern on this fold;
pin firmly; cut to the pattern around the curving edge.
Leave the fold uncut.
Place two rows of gathers along the curving edge and
down the straight sides. On the lower edge turn a
half-inch hem and hem fine. On the ends and down
one long side of the piece that is twenty inches long,
place a half-inch hem. Featherstitch with the em-
broidery cotton. Join the crown and this with a French
seam, being careful that the featherstitching is on the
outside of the car and that the gathers are evenly
distributed. Make an eyelet in the middle of the hem
at the back of the cap; run the tape in from the seams
on the sides, sewing it on firmly, and tie it at the eyelet.


SEVENTH AND EIGHTH GRADES
In the seventh and eighth grades the pupils may make
a full set of underwear for themselves and finish with a
simple wash dress. Every article made should have
a touch of hand decoration, and each one should be
a little more difficult than the preceding one. The
patterns for the dress and for the combination suit may
be selected according to the prevailing style. The
skirt may be drafted, and the nightdress decoration
should be easily worked on the cloth itself. Make a
plain kimono style. Buy twice the length of cloth,
measuring from the neck, at the shoulder, to the floor,
allowing two inches extra for hem and shrinkage.
53


SUPPLEMENTARY WORK
Small Size Skirt for Doll
MATERIALS. Two pieces of flannel or outing flannel
nine inches long by seven and one half inches wide.
White sewing silk, pink or white twist, white thread
No. 60, No. 8 needle, two pieces of tape six inches long
by one fourth of an inch wide.
DIRECTIONS. Sew the two breadths of flannel to-
gether with combination stitch, one edge overlapping
the other by an eighth of an inch. Make seam a little
less than one fourth of an inch deep. Turn longer
edge over flat and cross or catch stitch with fine, close
stitch.
Cut down the middle of one breadth two and one half
inches. From the right-hand side of the skirt turn over
a half-inch hem. From the left-hand side turn over an
eighth-inch hem. Catch stitch with fine, close stitch.
At the bottom of this placket fold the half-inch
hem over flat and catch stitch or place two rows of fine
stitching across.
Turn an inch hem at bottom; baste and catch stitch.
One fourth of an inch from top, double gather fine,
each half by itself. Fold band lengthwise and place
54
-



DIT
CHEI
.
Supplementary Work. Designs in Cross-stitch and Embroidery for Underwear; Page 54.


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 55
center to the center of the skirt at the top. Arrange
the gathers evenly and baste. Stitch just below gather-
ing thread. Fold over one fourth of an inch of the
band, then turn down over the gathers and baste.
Hem fine.
Insert the tape one fourth of an inch into the ends of
the band and hem down on both sides. Finish the
ends of tape with a fourth-inch hem.
Around the upper edge of the hem, place a row of
featherstitching worked in twist.
Lawn Apron. Doll's Size
MATERIALS. White lawn or muslin five inches long by
seven inches wide; white thread No. 70; No. 9 needle.
DIRECTIONS. Turn an eighth-inch hem on sides and
a half-inch hem on bottom of apron; hem.
Place a row of fine running stitches one eighth inch
from top of cloth; then one eighth inch below. Mark
the middle of top with a cross stitch.
Straighten the gathers carefully by gently pulling
them while on the needle or by pushing them along the
thread and under the thumb and finger.
Cut a band one and one half inches wide and seven
inches long. Fold evenly and pin the middle of the
band to the middle of the gathers on the right side of the
apron.
Carry the gathers to within two inches of the end of
the band; baste with even basting and stitch on the
gathers.


56 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
across
Fold over and baste down over the stitching, turning
in the raw edge one fourth inch. Hem the
apron
and top sew the ends.
This apron may be trimmed with lace or it may be
hemstitched, as the pupil may desire.
Magazine Cover
MATERIALS. Brown linen, half-inch binding ribbon,
brown thread, No. 8 needle.
DIRECTIONS. Cut the size desired; draw threads
until even. Miter the corners; making the hem about
two inches wide. Find the center of the folded sides
and measure out, on the edge of the hem, one half to one
inch from this center (according to the thickness of the
magazine). Cut to
the center line, leav-
ing one fourth inch
from the folded edge
uncut. Bind with
the ribbon.
Decorate with a
stenciled design or
with a bit of simple
INSIDE OF MAGAZINE COVER. embroidery.
Laundry Bag
MATERIALS. Fine checked gingham (blue and
white) thirty inches long and eleven or twelve inches


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 57
wide. No. 70 white thread. Peri Lusta embroidery
cotton. Size D. Color, shade 311.
DIRECTIONS. Overcast long sides. Fold the ends
over two and three fourths inches. Stitch these over-
cast edges together to within three fourths inch of
bottom of folded end; turn this seam under and finish
with a two and one half inch hem. One half inch above
edge of hem place a row of fine running stitches.
VIVUNT, 16
11,1
）
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67
LAUNDRY BAG.
About six inches down from the hem work a cross-
stitch design, using the Peri Lusta cotton. (Allow
each child to work from her own original design, placing
this design on one or both sides of the ..)
Bring the sides together and baste from hem to fold
of cloth: stitch, making a fourth inch seam.


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 59
the bag. Pin carefully and baste a fourth-inch seam;
backstitch seam; trim and overcast. Arrange the
second circle at the other end of bag, and baste and sew
in the same way.
Finish ends of bag by featherstitching the circles on
the right side a fourth of an inch from circumference.
If desired, the word “Rubbers” may be stamped and
outlined upon the upper part of bag. If lettering is
to be done, it must be stamped before bag is made.
Fasten bag with three hooks and eyes placed at
intervals of three inches. The hooks should be placed
on the under and further edge of featherstitched hem
and sewed on by means of buttonhole stitches worked
around the wider base of the hook, then securely
fastened either at front end of hook, or under the
hump,” by means of four straight stitches. The
straight metal eyes may be used and placed at corre-
sponding intervals on the upper side of under hem.
For featherstitching, D. M. C. embroidery cotton
(No. 20) may be used.
Sewing Case
MATERIALS. Outing flannel or wool flannel eight
and one half inches by five and one half inches, blue
outing flannel or ribbon five inches by twelve inches,
two small pieces of flannel two inches by three inches,
colored crochet cotton or D. M. C., blue and yellow or
white; crewel needles; three fourths yard of half-inch
ribbon.


60 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
DIRECTIONS. Turn a fourth-inch fold around the
flannel or white daisy cloth; catch stitch this with the
crochet cotton. Measure up from one end four inches,
and run in three squares of darning in contrasting color.
Fold back two inches at the same end and baste; top
sew the ends, catch stitch through the center to make
two small pockets; blanket stitch around three sides
of the small pieces; arrange them evenly half an inch
from the other end and blanket stitch them firmly in
place. If ribbon is used, arrange case evenly on the
ribbon and pin in position; turn half-inch hems at the
ends of ribbon and catch stitch; place this on the
narrow ribbon evenly and catch stitch together. If
the blue daisy cloth is used, blanket stitch around the
edge, then fasten to the inner piece and place the whole
upon the narrow ribbon (which may be blue or white)
and fasten as in the earlier case.
Sewing Apron
MATERIALS. One and one half yards of lawn, dimity,
or organdie; wash embroidery silk or embroidery cotton
(D. M. C. No. 20, or Peri Lusta E. fine). No. 70 white
thread.
DIRECTIONS. Cut apron according to pattern given
in illustration. Cut band two inches wide and two
inches longer than waist measure. If strings are de-
sired, cut band width of apron and cut the strings
twenty-four inches long by three and one half wide.
Gather a ruffle from middle to ends; place first row


62 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
of apron, baste with even basting; featherstitch. Place
middle of band to middle of apron on the right side;
baste to apron, making a fourth-inch seam; stitch.
Towel
MATERIALS. Huckaback linen or cotton. D. M.C.
No. 12-16.
DIRECTIONS. Even ends of goods by a thread.
Prepare a one and one half inch hem and draw four
threads.
Hemstitch.
Two inches above the hem embroider the monogram
or initials.
To EMBROIDER THE INITIALS. Select a simple style of
letter and transfer to the towel by tracing over transfer
paper. (This method is the simplest and, where only a
very little is to be done, may be used satisfactorily.)
Pad the letter by filling the space with rows of running
stitches done with the four-fold darning cotton. Chain
stitch may be used, but the result is less even.
The embroidery stitch used is the simplest form of
satin stitch. Where the initial runs parallel with the
threads of the cloth, make over and over stitches close
together. Let the needle enter the cloth exactly at
one edge of the pattern and come out exactly at the
other. You must have a perfectly even edge if the
result is to be good. As the pattern curves, slant the
stitches, being careful that the stitches are close together
so that no padding shows.


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 63
Towel with Swedish Weaving
MATERIALS. One yard or three fourths of a yard of
linen toweling, huck preferred. Two or more skeins
of No. 8, D. M. C. or O. N. T. to correspond in number.
No. 50 white thread. No. 5 crewel needles and No. 8
sewing needles.
DIRECTIONS. Measure in three and one fourth
inches at each end and draw threads until you have
about one inch of space drawn. Turn in one fourth of
an inch at the edge, bring this to the edge of the drawn
space, and baste with even basting. Hemstitch, taking
up about five threads each time. Use the No. 50
thread for this work. With the embroidery cotton,
begin and weave in and out through the drawn space,
taking up the same number of threads that were used
in hemstitching and passing over the same number.
The illustration (see Frontispiece) gives one simple
pattern easily worked out. If desired, one end of the
towel may be finished with plain hemstitching and the
other with the weaving.
Damask Hemming
MATERIALS. White linen six or six and one half
inches square. No. 9 needle. No. 70 white thread.
DIRECTIONS. Draw threads in the linen, making as
large a square as possible. On opposite sides turn and
baste an eighth-inch hem. Holding the wrong side
toward you, fold and crease the cloth back, so as to


64 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
make it even with the first fold of the hem. Top sew
very fine. Turn hems on two remaining sides, baste,
top sew ends, and then sides as before. Finish with
lace, – torchon or any variety that is suitable to the
linen; follow the directions given for sewing on of lace.
Doily
MATERIALS. Heavy white linen. No. 7 needle.
Embroidery cotton No. 25, 6 strand, white.
DIRECTIONS. With a spool, mark simple scallops
around the linen, making it the size desired. Pad
slightly with long outline stitches, using white darning
cotton. Blanket stitch over these stitches, but keep
the stitches close together and the edges perfectly even.
When finished, trim the cloth to the edge of the em-
broidery and then buttonhole around the entire edge with
ordinary cotton thread. This buttonholing will keep
the linen from fraying and give a smoother edge.
Corset Cover
MATERIALS. One yard of cambric, dimity, or long
cloth. Two and three fourths yards of lace. One and
three fourths yards of beading. D. M. C. or O. N. T.
No. 25, single strand, white. No. 70 white thread.
Nos. 8 and 9 needles.
DIRECTIONS. Select a pattern having shoulder and
under-arm seams.
Make flat fell seams. Turn an
eight-inch hem around the top. Turn one-inch hems


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 65
down the front. Face armholes with fourth-inch face
ings. Gather the bottom from about two inches in
front of the under-arm seam to front hem, using two
rows of gathers, the first one eighth of an inch from the
bottom, the second one eighth of an inch above the
first. Finish the bottom with a band three fourths of
an inch wide when finished. (This band should be torn
two inches wide and two inches longer than the waist
measure taken loosely.) Featherstitch the top and the
front hems with the embroidery cotton. Finish with
the lace and beading, and run lingerie tape into the
beading, or crochet a tiny cord and run this through.
If preferred, seed stitch or outline stitch may be sub-
stituted for the featherstitching.
Waist Protector
MATERIALS. One and one half yards of fine cheese-
cloth, silkolene, or batiste; wash embroidery silk to
match material. No. 70 thread. One half yard nar-
row ribbon to match goods.
DIRECTIONS. Even ends by a thread. Fold one
selvage edge together evenly. Baste; find the middle
of this seam, measure out from the center along the
seam one and one half inches. From this point sew to
edge with the combination stitch, making an eighth-
inch seam.
Bind the open part with the ribbon and
featherstitch along the edge of the ribbon. If wished,
more ribbon may be used and a rosette or bow placed
at one side or in the middle.


66 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
Turn a fourth-inch hem down the open side and a
one-inch hem at the bottom. Baste with even basting
and featherstitch along the edge of the hem. Use
either single or double featherstitching.
Table Cover or Table Runner
MATERIALS. Linen or gingham. One yard or one
and one fourth yards. Linen-colored thread.
DIRECTIONS. If square cover is desired, use one yard
of thirty-six inch linen (natural color) or a square of the
narrower kind. Finish with a two-inch hem, making
mitered corners.
Place a stenciled design at the corner inside the hem,
working out the design as part of the regular art work.
To make a runner, use one and one fourth yards of
linen or linen-colored gingham; finish with one and one
half inch hems on the sides and a three-inch hem at the
bottom; miter the corners as before. Place stenciled
design above the three-inch hems.
If desired, both of these covers may be hemstitched.
Kimono
MATERIALS. Japanese crêpe or ripplette. Simple,
narrow lace not over one inch in width. Embroidery
cotton to harmonize with the materials. A simple
pattern for a short kimono. White thread No. 70.
Sewing needles No. 8. Crewel needle No. 6.
DIRECTIONS. Buy the pattern first.
Buy the
amount of material required by the pattern, and cut care-


68 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
ends to the
insertion and
top sewing
the portion
that extends
beyond the
gores.
sew the lace
around the
Top
entire apron,
2
following the
general direc-
tions for sew-
ing on lace.
Place lace on
the ends of
the strings
only. .
FANCY APRON, ONE-EIGHTH SIZE.
Underskirt
Take the waist and skirt measure of each girl and add
five inches to the skirt length.
PATTERN OF SKIRT. Place paper on desk. Make
measurements out and down from upper corner of paper.
DIRECTIONS. .
Front gore.
Out from corner measure 1-6 of waist measure and
mark
A
●


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 69
B
Down from corner on outer edge of paper measure
1 inch and mark
Down from B, measure skirt length plus 5 inches
and mark
Out from C, measure 12 inches and mark
Connect A and D with a straight line.
с
D
W waist
* waist
B
Half of
Front
Gore
Side
Gore
Skirt length plus 5 in.
Skirt length plus sin
Skirt length plus 5 in
Skirt length plus sin.
12 in,
15 in.
PATTERN FOR FRONT AND SIDE GORE OF SKIRT.
.
Down from A on this straight line measure skirt
length plus 5 inches and mark
E
Connect A and B with a free-hand curve.
Connect C and E with a free-hand curve.
Cut on curve A and B. Straight line A and E and
curve E and C.


70 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
Mark straight edge of length of paper with these
words: “ Place on lengthwise fold of cloth.”
Mark “half front gore.”
Side gore.
.
Measure out from corner 4 waist measure and mark A
Measure down from corner 1 of an inch and mark B
Measure down from B skirt length plus 5 inches and
mark
С
Measure out from C 15 inches and mark
D
Connect A and D with a straight line.
Measure from A down this straight line skirt length
plus 5 inches and mark .
Connect C and E with a free-hand curve.
Connect A and B with a free-hand curve.
Cut on curves and line A-D. Notch gored side
twice and mark“ side gore.” Notch straight
edge once.
E
Back Breadth. Draft as you did the side breadth
but take one third of waist measure at top and eighteen
inches at the bottom.
MATERIALS FOR SKIRT. Long cloth, cambric, or
muslin; three lengths should be sufficient, if you add
to each the extra five inches. The flounce may be of
the cloth or of edging. Allow one third more than the
width of the skirt. No. 70 white thread; No. 8 needles.
If desired make the skirt of flannel, or flannelette, or
outing flannel. In this case buy more material, as the
outing flannel is not so wide.


A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
NOTE. If made of flannel, finish the seams with a
flat fell and simply featherstitch around the edge of the
hem. Make the placket and also the band of long cloth.
DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING THE UNDERSKIRT. Fold
one piece lengthwise. On this fold place the straight
edge of the front gore. Pin securely in place and cut,
leaving the fold untouched.
On the straight selvage edge, place the straight side
of the side gore. Pin in place and cut. Turn upside
down and fit in the other side. Cut. Arrange the back
breadths in the same way and pin and cut. Lay the
entire pattern on and try it before cutting any, so as to
use the cloth to the best advantage.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING. Finish with French
Make a continuous placket. Finish the top
with a band one inch wide when made. Place a button
and buttonhole in the ends. Turn an inch and one
half hem. For the flounce see directions for princess
slip.
TO MAKE THE PLACKET. Leave nine inches at the
top of the back seam unfinished. Cut a lengthwise
strip of cloth eighteen inches long by two and one half
inches wide. Beginning at the top, on the right side,
place the placket strip against the skirt, edge to edge,
and baste, one eighth inch from the edge, with even
basting stitches; when at the bottom of the opening,
turn and baste up the other side. Stitch just below the
basting. Turn one fourth inch on the raw edge;
crease; fold over the first stitching and pin in place.
seams.


72 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING
Baste. Hem down the left-hand side and half an inch
up the right-hand side. Crease this side firmly.
Remove the basting. Cut out the under portion to
within a fourth of an inch of the crease. Turn the
remaining portion of the cloth to the wrong side, make
the edge even with the seam, so that none shows on the
right side, baste and sew like any hem. At the
bottom of the hem, place two rows of stitching an
eighth of an inch apart, just the width of the hem.
This strengthens the placket at the bottom.
THE END
Pres
Dept Econ-
Home Econ
PS
S?












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