IM WIDODONIL O ITIH FONTATOUDUTODIUUE LIXXX-XX IZLIVIA allallatala 1.1111 LETIHTI E BICH Goodwin's course in sewing Emma E. Goodwin I - AUTHOR'S PREFACE During many years' experience in the dressmaking trade, and in teaching the more advanced technical work of designing, cutting and fitting clothes, I have realized the need of a more thorough training for the workers in the first principles of needlework. This resulted in an observation, extending over the past six years, of the teaching of sewing in the public schools of our larger cities. From a careful study of what is given in the Domestic Arts courses of the most efficient of these schools, I have formulated a definite, practical outline of the work that should give a foundation for an advanced technical training, fitting for the trades, or enable the pupil to do all necessary household sewing. Correlated subjects have been purposely omitted, the course con- cisely given and fully illustrated. The drawings have been made from such articles as are actually produced in the sewing classes of the graded schools, and represent first the object completed, then details of each step not previously given in its construction. These illustrations in the hands of the pupils give them a clear conception of the article to be made, and the method of making, and should prove a valuable aid to those teachers who have not had the advantage of a technical training in Domestic Arts. The increasing interest in the vastly important subject of Indus- trial Education leads me to hope that the work I have done may be of some assistance to those who are striving to place the teaching of sewing upon a systematic, practical basis. I have selected McCall Patterns for use in this course as being, in my judgment, the most reliable and easy to understand and use. Emma E. Goodwin. 5 I. NEEDLE-BOOK Fig. 1.—Needle-book Cover. Materials.—Burlap canvas 2% x 6 inches, flannel 2|x6 inches, crewel needle and colored worsted thread. Knot the thread. Begin each line of stitches in a different corner of the canvas so that the joining of the thread shall not be all in one place. Fig. 2.—Overcasting. 9 I Overcasting.—Begin at the upper right-hand corner and work to- ward the left. Bring the thread from underneath through the first hole from the edge. Bring the thread over the edge and up through the third hole. Take the stitches in the same way through every other hole around the edges of the canvas. Draw the thread even, but do not make the stitches tight. Take the last two stitches over the first two and cut off the end of the thread close to the canvas. / Fig. 3.—Running. Running.—Begin in the second row from the edge and bring the thread up from underneath through the first hole. Bring the thread back through the second hole and up through the third hole. Take one stitch in the same way, back and forth through every hole in the second row. Take the last two stitches over the first two and cut the thread. Even basting.—Begin in the third row from the edge and bring the thread up from underneath, through the first hole, and back through the third hole. Bring the thread up through the fifth hole and back through the seventh hole, skipping one hole with each stitch. J 10 Put the needle back through the second hole and up through the fourth, making small stitches that meet on top, and longer stitches that overlap on the under side. Take the last two stitches over the first two before cutting off the thread. Fig. 9.—Cross-stitch. Cross-stitch.—Begin in an upper right-hand corner and use the next two rows of holes for the design of cross-stitches. Bring the thread up through the first hole in the lower row. Put the thread back through the second hole in the upper row, and up through the first hole in upper row. Put the thread back through the second hole in lower row, and up through the third hole in lower row. This will cross the threads on the upper side and make two parallel lines, like running-stitches, on the under side. Take two small stitches over the last stitch on the under side to fasten the thread. 14 Blanket-stitch, different form.—Begin as for blanket-stitch, Fig 7. Take one short stitch and one long stitch, then another short stitch. Leave one hole between and repeat the three stitches in the same way, around the edges of the mat. Fig. 12.— Outline-stitch. Outline-stitch.—Begin at a lower right-hand corner and work up- ward. Bring the needle up through the first hole at the bottom, drawing the thread to the right side. Put the needle back through the third hole and up through the second. Fig. 13.—Catch-stitch. 17 IV. PRACTICE PIECES V. BAG Fig. 17.—Finished Bag. Materials.—Striped or checked gingham 6 x 12 inches, 2 tapes 18 inches, No. 8 needle and No. 50 white cotton thread. Fold the cloth across the width and pin the sides of the bag evenly together. Knot the thread for basting. Uneven basting.—Allow \ inch seams and begin with a short stitch taken through to the under side, leaving the knot on top. Take stitches \ inch long on the upper side and about \ inch long on the under side. Baste the side seams of the bag. 21 VI. PENCIL CASE Fig. 20.—Pencil Case, Finished. Materials.—Gingham 5x17 inches, cut lengthwise of the cloth; tape 12 inches, No. 8 needle and No. 50 cotton thread. Turn I inch fold on the long edges. Turn ^ inch fold across one end. Fold the piece crosswise and crease the middle of it. 24 right, take the first stitch through the fold only. Leave \ inch of the thread to be sewed under the fold with the first three or four stitches. • Take two stitches over and over at beginning to secure the end. Take small stitches of uniform slant and size through to the right side and up through the folded edge. Joining the hemming.—When half way through the hem, cut the thread off to within \ inch of the last stitch and draw this end under the fold with the point of the needle. Take the next stitch with a fresh thread through the hole in the fold where the last stitch came out. Leave J inch of this thread to be placed under the fold and fastened with the other loose end by the next few stitches. Finishing.—Take two or three stitches over and over through the fold to secure the end of the hemming before cutting the thread. (Note.—In folding hems be careful that the warp and woof threads are parallel with each other on the right and wrong sides. This is necessary to prevent twisting of the cloth.) Wide hems or those in soft fabrics that do not hold a crease should always be basted carefully before hemming. 29 XI. KITCHEN TOWEL Materials.—Linen crash or glass toweling f yard and tape for loop 5 inches. Cut the ends of the towel straight with the woof thread. Fold under \ inch across the ends. Fold again, \ inch, baste and hem. Sew a loop of tape at the middle of one end, as taught on tape and button model, Fig. 35. 38 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW FEB 18 1915 25 FEB 14 1916 1930 *jUL 27 1916 AUG 5 1916 SEP 1*1916 ""Gig |920 AUG 16 i«24 loan dppt. IDEPL riRCULATtONJ RECEIVED BY JUL 1 3 1938 f^eUUTION DEPT. 30m-6,'14