"64-6 .2 In7s * REMOTE STORAGE Foreword This course of lessons is guaranteed to be the “shortest cut” to independence and individu- ality and satisfaction in the matter of clothes. _ Every step in it is important. Nothing should be omitted or slighted if the study is to prove of real, everyday value to you. A great mind has said that we live by work, play, love and worship. But your life work and life play cannot yield their highest values if you are forced to wear expensive or inferior clothes. You need not be dependent on either. The lessons contained in this course will prove to you that you can make your own clothes—smart, good-looking clothes, clothes that give you a sense of assurance and well-being—-with little effort and at an amazingly low cost. If you apply yourself cheerfully and conscientiously to the study of these lessons, we pledge you in return our cooperation and assistance in acquiring this accomplishment of sewing, which above all others, every woman should possess. The Institute of Modern Sewing, Inc. New Haven, Conn. Copyright I920 The Institute of Modern Sewing, Inc. New Haven. Conn‘ Lesson No. 1 The Care And Use Of The Sewing Machine LESSON No. 1 THE CARE AND USE OF THE SEWING MACHINE Oiling and Cleaning Sewing machines require to be cleaned and oiled daily if they are used continuously all day long. If used moderately for only a few hours a day, oiling and cleaning twice a week is suflicient. A good quality of sewing machine oil should be used, and a small drop applied to each bearing where there is any friction, as often as may be required. The face plate and the needle plate of the sewing machine should be removed occasionally to clean away the lint and dust which collect. The bearings should be oiled inside when the face plate is removed. The shuttle race requires occasional oiling, as well as the ball bearings in the treadle and in the pitman. The ruflier and the tucker also require, occasionally, a small drop of oil. Machines which are gummed from using poor oil should be oiled with kerosene or benzine, making sure that there is no flame in the room when such volatile liquids are being used. The machine should be run long enough to cut away the gummed oil, and then should be thor- oughly cleaned and oiled with good sewing machine oil. Attention to these details will increase the life of the machine, make it run easier and lighter, and also permit it to do better sewing than it could otherwise accomplish. Adjusting the Tensions All sewing machines require occasional tension adjustment to suit the stitch to various fabrics. There are two tensions: the upper and the lower. The upper tension controls the thread as it comes from the spool—the lower tension controls the thread as it comes from the bobbin. To tighten the tension turn thc adjusting screw to the right—to loosen the tension turn the adjusting screw to the left. This applies equally to both upper and lower tension. The upper tension is adjusted (m I) by means of the thumb screw, the lower tension by means of small Testinil'h“ Tcnsi‘m‘ screw, which is turned with a screw driver. A stitch which approixmates perfection in appearance will best be obtained by an equal amount of tensions above and below. (See 111. 8.) The shuttle tension spring should occasionally be removed from the shuttle, and all the lint and dust or knots of thread should be removed from under this spring and then the spring properly replaced. This applies to both round and long shuttle. Regulate Your Stitch The stitch should then be regulated to suit the thread which is being used. In other words, after having given all other conditions due consideration do not spoil your bit of workmanship by using a long, coarse stitch. The adjustment of the length of the stitch is such a small matter that it is very easy for any woman to learn, and one should become so thoroughly accustomed to this that a stitch may be regulated without any difficulty whatsoever. The Adjustment of the Belt The belt should be neither too tight nor too loose. If it is too loose, power is wasted by having the belt slip and the machine will not run full speed. If it is too tight it causes the machine to run very hard. One should avoid getting the belt soaked with oil, as it will invariably slip and cause difficulty if this is done. Every machine should be supplied with a belt punch. which enables you to shorten or lengthen your belt as you find it necessary. The Adjushnent of the Presser Foot and the Feed The presser foot rests on the feed holding the cloth in position while the needle is doing the work. This pressure should be light or heavy, according to the fabric to be stitched. Heavy fabric requires heavy pressure and light fabric a lighter pressure. P For chiffon, net or fine silks and other similar materials, release the A dimming 15:31,}? pressure by turning the adjustment screw to the left. Increase the pressure °“ PMS" F°°‘ for heavy materials by turning the adjustment screw to the right. The screw will be found on top of presser bar. (See Ill. 5.) Winding Bobbins Great care should be taken in winding bobbins to have the thread placed on the bobbin smoothly and evenly. This will insure an even run of thread from the shuttle, and will prevent the line of stitching from having a wavering appearance which will occur if the thread comes off the shuttle in jerks. If the points mentioned herein are given careful attention and you learn (111- t“ and master them thoroughly it will then be very easy indeed to use the A B°"€J'.},,‘,l‘.,°“"‘~" Attachments on the machine. ' _ A machine which stitches straight with its own presser foot will make perfectly even tucks, will stitch the hem a short distance from the edge, will turn under the binding evenly, and stitch it evenly, and will do edge-stitching and all other fine operations with the greatest possible ease. A machine which does not stitch straight with its own presser foot will (111.7) under no circumstances do satisfactory work with the Attachments, nor will A B°bbwolflflmpefly it be possible even with the most careful guiding to stitch a straight seam. You must learn to Properly thread the machine and shnlllo from your inslrnction book. Before beginning to new a long seam be sure the bobbin contains enough thread to com- plete the seam. All adjustments may be made without removing the Attachment in use from the machine. Always raise the needle bar to its highest point before fastening any Attachment to the machine. Lesson No. 2 The Cutting Gauge And Binder To Join Your Bias Bands The seams on your bias strips should be made as close to the edge as is safe in order that they will run properly through the Binder. The edges can be trimmed after the stitching is made. Lay the two diagonal ends together as shown in Ill. 16 and stitch in a seam. It will then be seen that when the strips are lapped back the edges will be exactly even. Do not join your strips as shown in Ill. 15. 1111.15) 7 7 (111.1111 The Wrong \Vay The Right “’ay to Join Strips The Binder and How to Use It Substitute the Binder for the presser foot. following the directions given in your instruction book. Your instructor will assist you with this part of your lesson. Cut the binding to a point with the scissors. lnsert the point in the scroll of the Binder until the binding comes through the scroll and under the foot. It may be necessary to draw the binding through the scroll with the stiletto or the point of the scissors. As the binding passes through the scroll both edges are turned in neatly. Binders are of two types: those which are adjustable for the distance of stitching from the edge. and those which are not. The stitching should always be close to the edge, in order to have the proper appearance. tlll.lT) The Adjustable Hindi-1' at \Voi'k However, if you do not have the adjustable type of Binder the working principle is the same. Your instructor will tell you which type you have with your Attachments. After you have inserted the binding in the Binder Attachment lower the presser bar and proceed to sew. You will find that the Attachment folds the cloth as the machine stitches the folds together. The edge to be bound should be held in the scroll of the Binder as shown in the illustration. All seams to be bound should be stitched and then trimmed close to the row of stitching. .--< Using No. 6 Folded Tape With the Binder Tape which may be purchased ready folded can be used with the Binder. This tape must be one-half inch in width and you will find that the number 6 will be the proper width in all stan- dard makes. The tape is inserted in the outside slot of the Binder as shown in Ill. 18. In this same manner ribbon or braid may be used. It must be one-half inch in width. Norm—“7e would advise that you purchase a roll of unfolded tape ready cut for use with this lesson. It will save you much (mm, time. Your instructor will supply you with a 24-yard roll for lnsertirg thc Folded Tape in ‘ , . . um Bind" th1rt) cents. M_-__I— Projects for Lesson No. 2 (A) Binding of Proper Width to Use With Binder Cut a strip of lawn on the true bias, 20 inches long and '% inch wide. Cut this strip into three separate pieces and stitch together with the machine. The seams are to be trimmed ready for use with the Binder. (See Ill. 16.) (B) A Bound Seam Your teacher will demonstrate and assist you with each operation for this lesson. This is the first sample to be made; master thor- oughly. Sew up a straight or bias seam with the presser foot and trim off the edge about %; inch from the stitching. Adjust the Binder to stitch as close to the edge of the binding as possible, with the particular kind of material you are using. Insert the edge of the scam in the scroll and bind. The finished sample should measure about six inches in length. (Ill. 19) Sample Made of Lawn or Muslin (C) An Outside Curve The adjustment feature of the Binder will require practice for this operation. Care must be taken by the beginner in adjusting this Attachment for a curve, as a wider adjustmentis necessary than for a straight seam in order to keep the stitching directly on the edge. The edge of the cloth at all times must be held well in the scroll of the Binder, and if the curve is sharp it may be necessary to stop the machine and raise the presser bar in order to turn the cloth properly. The outside curve is used in making such articles as aprons, scallops, collars, children's clothes, etc. (111. 20) Sample Made of Lawn or India Linen -____ “I. II. (D) An Inside Curve (Ill. 5.") Sample .\larlc of l.a ur lndin Linen (E) An Open This illustration shows an open seam of heavy material with both edges bound. The garment is first fitted and the surplus material trimmed from the seam, leaving one inch or less on each side. liach edge is then bound and the seam pressed flat. 1f the material is very sleazy and bias. it is sometimes necessary to stitch close to the edge before binding. This is especially true when using rattine or voile. Serge dress seams are often finished in this manner. The material is held as nearly as possible in a straight line when binding a curve of this kind. If the cloth is liable to stretch, it is well to add a row of stitching close to the edge before binding. The outside and inside curves are conditions which you meet in your dressmaking and the time spent in practicing these two operations will be well worth while. The inside curve is used in binding the neck and armholes of garments. Bound Seam (Ill. 22) Made of Heavy Lincn or Broadcloth Sample —&&__—IL=__L_T_$H$II_IH— - — .-- - - - -- _ “I- fling—g , .EA-_- _ --~ (F) A Bound Placket This finish is practical for children’s drawers, sleeves, etc., where a wide overlap is not desired. The seam is held as nearly as possible in a straight line, taking care not to sew in too deeply at the point, as this might cause a plait or fold to form. ()n children’s drawers it is not objectionable, however, to bind in the fold, as it insures a safe seam. This same condition is met with in binding scallops. and it would be well to include a row of scallops in this lesson, as they are very much in vogue at the present time. Black or white folded tape of tafieta silk may be purchased in any department store. This is ex- cellent for finishing the bottoms of scalloped dresses or underskirts. Your sample, however. may be made of any material bound with white lawn. (lll.23) Sample Made of Lawn m- lmlia Linen (G) Bound Buttonholes These Buttonhole: are Easy to Make and Wear Well They are practical for children's waists and drawers, the back of dresses, pinafores, the back of princess slips, for the front of tailored slhirtwaists, and for any garments where a tailored finish is desirable. (Ill. 24) Directions for Making Do not try to work out these directions by “mental arithmetic,” but sit down at the machine and make some of the buttonholes in order to appreciate how easy it is. The binding to be used with the Binder should be cut if; of an inch wide. For ordinary binding as for seams, trimming, etc., the binding should be cut on the true bias. Binding for making buttonholes should be cut on the crosswise of the material so that it will not stretch when laundered. I'M _ -- 7 _ , _-'I='___ " _ “I. :I' I_-_:"..- _' -\ shows the strip of cloth 2 inches wide. ll shows the same strip with both edges bound with crosswise-cut binding; the pencil marks are 1 inch apart, showing just how to cut the strip into sections. C shows the sections stitched together in such a manner that the edges first bound will form buttonholes. D is (T with both edges bound. completing the buttonholes. .\lways cut the first strip (A) as wide as you want the distance between the buttonholes. If the buttonholes are to be two inches apart, take a strip of material two inches wide and bind it as shown in ll. The marks show this strip divided into sections. Each section is one—half inch wider than the button. If your button is One-half inch across add one-half inch, thus cutting your strip into pieces l inch wide. (It the button is three-quarters of an inch in diameter, add one-half inch and cut strip into sections one and one-quarter inches wide.) After your strip is cut into sections sew the pieces together as shown in C, using the presser foot. Bind the edges with binding as shown in D. This makes a finished strip of button— holes which are strong and practical for children's clothes. ;_r li shows the same idea worked out with finer materials; the Foot Hemmer instead of the Binder is used to finish the first strip in order to get an effect dainty enough to use with dimity, batiste, etc. F. also shows the edges sewn to another piece of cloth, which in the case of practical sewing would be the garment. This is done when they are in the stage as shown in C, binding the edge of the garment in with the row of button- holes, then stitching the other edge of the binding flat on the garment, using the presser foot. (Ill. 25) Bound Buttonholes (sample made of heavy muslin) (H) Button Loops To make button loops, attach the Binder to the machine and stitch through a strip of binding about one-half yard long. This gives you a quarter-inch fold of bias cloth with. the edges turned in and stitched securely. For each loop cut a strip sufficiently long to slip over the button when finished. Fold the loop to a point as shown in Ill. 8 and sew in shape by hand. Insert the ends in the hem and stitch in place as shown in Ill. 27. U. OF ILL UB. The Button Loops (Ill. 26) Binding dress seams. Binding around armholes. princess slips. Using fine binding on shirtwaist cuffs. used as trimming. Binding loops for buttons. Bound buttonholes. Practical Uses of Binder Binding seams, armholes and necks of corset covers and Binding the neck and sleeves of kimona night gowns. Binding edges of kitchen aprons, fancy aprons and caps. In this way it is also I III. 27) (1) Binding With Military Braid This braid comes in a variety of widths and colors, also in silk. or cotton. This year it is quite the proper finish for skirts, dresses and suits. Many times it is applied flat as a trimming. but more often it is used to bind the edge. Forming the Loops The braid one-half inch in width may be used with the Binder by inserting it in the outside slot of the scroll. Purchase a yard of this braid for practice. Braid a straight edge of a piece of serge or broad— cloth. The next s-ample will be a curve as shown in the illustration. This braid is so loosely woven and so pliable that it will adjust itself to a curve perfectly. This braid is also very desirable for the bottom of dresses that are either scalloped or plain. (See illustration below.) (Ill. 29) v blip the gown over the head to make sure the neck 13 trimmed ‘ I! l 1 l Start the binding for the neck at the center back and trim the l l binding close at the starting point in order that you may bind over 1 » 1, this point when finishing. Turn under the ends of binding and ,1 finisli by overhanding. E'iittiiig the Gownu" 36) The lace edge is to be applied to the neck and sleeves later. I You are now ready to stitch up your long seams. Stitching Up the Night Gown Join the under-arm seams, placing the pins in the garment 1% inches apart and 34 of an inch from the edge. This will allow your presser foot to work freely without coming in contact with the pins and will eliminate a basting operation. (Note 111. 37 showing stitching and trimming.) Use a short stitch which will enable you to trim close to the stitching without danger of the seam pulling out. To Make the French Seam After trimming the seam close, turn to the wrong side and crease on the seam. Pin up to hold this scam as you did for your first stitching, and sew this second seam in position, stitching it as narrow as is possible. and still keep the raw edges safely within the seam. (Ill. 37) Hemming the Night Gown Trim the bottom of the gown evenly. turn {/5 inch and crease. Turn up a two-inch hem, pinning it in position. (See Ill. 38.) Press carefully and stitch close to the edge. VVben sewing in the hem take fullness out by fine gathers or tiny plaits after edge is turned. A 2-inch strip of cardboard used as a measure will assist you in making the hem accurate. > —. 71—— -——.. r- .._.___ A_,,__ 4 __., ,L,___L This seam should never show unravelled edges on the right side, neither should it be wide and clumsy. n z i Peg} (Ill. 38) You are now ready to apply the lace by drawing the thread to slightly full it and then stitching it to the edge of the binding or over-handing it by hand. French knots may be added in the center of the binding. This adds very much to the appearance of the finished gown. To Make French Knots French knots which are used in embroidery are made as illus— trated in 111. 39. After bringing the thread up through the material. take an ordinary back stitch. Wind the thread or silk twice around the needle, draw it through, holding the coils down with the left thumb. Then insert the needle over the edge of the coils in the same hole, thus making the knot secure. Do not cut the thread on the underside, but pass on to the next knot. tlll. 3th Making French Knots Lesson No. 4 The Tucker--Collar Patterns--Making A Collar And Cuff Set LESSON No. 4 THE TUCKER—MAKING A COLLAR AND CUFF SET The Tucker and How to Use It Substitute the Tucker for the presser foot. In order to do this with the greatest case it may. be necessary for you to consult your direction book. Always have this book handy, as it will save you much time and trouble, if you refer to it freely. The fold of the first tuck must be made by hand and creased its entire length. All subse- quent folds are made by the Tucker. (Ill. 40) The Tucker in Operation After creasing the first fold insert the cloth in the Tucker from the left, between the smoother and the blade, with the cloth to be tucked uppermost, as shown in the photograph; lower the presser bar and proceed to sew, keeping the crease against the guide. When the tuck is finished, flatten it so that it lies in the proper direction. Proceed in like manner for the next tuck, creasing it along the line made by the marker, and catching the edge of the first tuck under the hook just in front of the marker. It is unnecessary then to guide the cloth, as the Tucker does it unaided. When making the last tuck, throw the operating lever back out of the way of the needle clamp, in order that no mark may be made where a mark is not desired. Table for Setting the Tucker l . Set Marker Sgiigeui‘ I so Pointer l points at For »11;;-inch tucks with Mg-inch space %;-inch tucks with no space . %;-inch tucks with %;-inch space Xg-inch tucks with %-inch space M-inch tucks with no space . yi-inch tucks with %-inch space V4-inch tucks with yz-inch space 72-inch tucks with no space . Vz-inch tucks with Vz-inch space %-inch tucks with no space . maammm-~fi Gab-hum“)wa Study your Sewing Machine lnstruction Book in connection with this lesson If you observe you will find that tucking is the most popular trimming for all thin dresses. underwear, children’s clothes, etc. In fact, scarcely a dainty garment is made that does not require tucking of some sort. At the present time tucking is used on fine French underwear as well as the plainer models. It is not necessary to dwell long on the importance of tucking, as every woman knows how essential it is to understand this feature of sewing. But tucking to be beautiful must be well made. It must be evenly stitched and the spacing must be exact. How often you see a cheap ready-made garment trimmed with tucks. It does not attract. Why? The stitches are long and the thread is coarse. This brings us to the vital part of the Tucker lesson—how to make beautiful tucks, tucks which are a real trimming. Before attempting to make tucks for a dress or apron, try out your Tucker with a square of cloth. Spend a little time practicing, making various kinds of tucks with different spaces be- tween them, until you know bow to adjust the Tucker exactly as you want it. Use fine thread, from 100 to 150, with a needle to match. Have your tensions adjusted to give a perfect stitch. Always be sure to fasten the adjusting screw firmly so that the Tucker guides will not shift. How to Do Cross-Tucking First tuck the cloth lengthwise, then tuck crosswise across the tucks. Cross-tucking is ex- tremely ornamental and may be made in many different ways. For example, you can tuck, bias across the first tucks, which gives a totally different effect from plain cross-tucking. (Ill. 41) Some Combinations of Tucks with a \‘ariety of Spacings Projects for Lesson No. 4 Length Samples to be Six Inches in Tucked Net (B) ide Tucks (A) W 411L413) (Ill. 42) Five and One-half and Sample made of Fine Lawn. Net Sample Made of Tucker Set at The Six. Bias Tucking (D) Cross Tucking (C) a. . .wm.wu.flm..rr.‘ - (. . sum hdalil'l .l L?! ES! .i Ulfimeou. ’ . .3 r. I P Q . .H U .. > ,0 t . r .- N.“ . 8 am. (Ill. 44) (111.45) Made of Fine Lawn Sample Made of Fine Lawn Sample (E) Collar Patterns A Flat collar may be made by cutting a pattern as shown in the illustration. edge of the collar may be round instead of square if desired. The outside If you wish to fit a collar to a certain dress lay the center back seam on a piece of paper and trim the shape of the neck. Cut shape as desired. FLAT COLLAB SPOULDE R SEAN. CENTgR Pgorfl' ROLL COLLAR SHOULDER SEAN . I a COLLAR Aac'o SLIGHT 20cc. comma aeczo mac zocune. CENTER FRONT By following lines here shown you will be able to cut roll collars. u. OF !LL. LlB. SLIGHT ROLL A_T BACK 0/ 2“ SHOULDE R SEAN . I U 4 CENTER FR ONT Take a dart at center Neck as shown in chart. This will slightly roll your collar. (F) A Dainty c011” and cut; Set Now that you have practiced with your Tucker and VA 1 d 1 £ ' ' k ’v \ 1 ma 6 'Our 521m CS 0 arl 1 u ' re ave _\ p v ousszetcswea / J‘s; going to ask you to make a 24-inch square of cross— tucking. This tucking is to be made on fine organdie. A very fine stitch is to be used and a perfect tension. Do not forget, too, that you are to use a fine needle to correspond with the thread and material you are using. Set your Tucker for a pin tuck and your space at 1%. You may use the pattern which your instructor will furnish you or you may draft your own. Maybe you have a dress which you would like to freshen up and you have a style collar in view that will look well on the dress. After your tucking is finished and your collar and cuff set cut out it is to be trimmed with a narrow, fine lace edge. The set illustrated will require 372 yards of edging. If you select your own pattern, measure around (111. 46) the edge and allow sufficient lace for turning the corners properly. Stitch the lace in position with the machine and then turn back the material and make a second stitching. You may overcast this raw edge if you desire, but we feel sure it is quite safe if trimmed close. Bind around the neck and the edge of the cuffs with fine lawn, using the Binder. Figure the cost of this collar set and compare it with the price of ready-mades. Isn’t this saving worth while? (All samples of work should be sent to the lnstitute.) A Suggestion for Applying Croas-Tucking to an Undergarment Lesson No. 5 The Edge-Stitcher LESSON No. 5 THE EDGE-STITCHER The Edge-Stitcher makes the sewing machine itself more valuable. It makes it possible for the unskilled operator to do the most perfect stitching. A crooked line of stitching will actually spoil the appearance of a finished garment. If the Edge- Stitcher is not with your machine your sewing instructor will be glad to supply you with one. Directions for Using the Edge-Stitcher ’ 5 The Edge-Stitching Attachment is fastened to the machine in the same manner as the presser foot. The different slots which are numbered from one to five in the illustration serve as _ (mm guides for sewing together laces, insertions, sewing in position folded or hemmed edges, bias fold materials, piping, etc. The Edge-Stitcher is adjustable for the stitching in relation to the edge of the garment, lace. etc., by means of the lug A at the side of the Attachment. (Ill. 45) How to Adjust the Edge-Stitcher To adjust, move lug A (see Ill. 47) at the left of the Attachment to the right or left until the desired adjustment is obtained. When sewing two pieces of lace together it is very necessary that the Attachment be adjusted to stitch exactly on the edge so that the edges will not fold over when laundered. Always use a fine needle and thread when sewing laces together, as this greatly improves the appearance of the finished work. The edges of lace or soft material should be held slightly overlapped when operating the Edge-Stitcher to prevent the material from feeding away. When the Attachment is properly adjusted the most inexperienced operator can sew yards of lace or other material together with no difficulty. ,r -10Q A Variety of Trimmings Made With the Edge-Stitcher Fig. 1——Rows of insertion sewn together. Slots Nos. 1 and 4 are used for this class of work. Fig. 2—Rows of lace and embroidery sewn together. Slots Nos. 1 and 4 are also used for this class of work. Fig. 3—Tucking and insertion sewn together. The lace is placed in slot No. 4 and the folded edge of the material in slot No. 1. Fig. 4—Ribbon and lace sewn together. The ribbon is placed in slot No. l and the lace in slot No. 4. Fig. 5—.\ band of embroidery finished on the edge with a narrow lace edge. The embroidery is placed in slot No. l and the lace in slot No. 4. Fig. 6—Lace insertion used as trimming. The lace is placed in slot No. l and the material in under the Attachment. After the lace is sewn in position the material is cut from the underside, the edge turned back and a second row of stitching added as a finish. Fig. 7—Braid sewn to a garment for trimming. The braid is inserted in slot N0. 1 and the garment under the Attachment. Fig. S—Bias folds sewn to the edge of a garment to be used as a finish and trimming. The bias fold is inserted in slot No. l and the edge of the garment in slot No. 5 with the garment wrong side up. The other edge of the binding is stitched in position with the presser foot. (Ill. 49) Projects for Lesson No. 5 Samples of Edge-Stitching to be Made (Ill. 51) Sample Made of Val. Lace This sample is made the same as sewing together the laces. The lace is inserted in slot Slmples to be six inches in length When sewing together two patterns of lace always have the one with the better finished edge in the slot at the left, as this is the edge that will show. If the feed of the machine is sharp and catches the lace insert a piece of paper in under the Attachment. Do not have the tension too tightly adjusted for this kind of work. This sort of trimming is very popular for underwear and lingerie dresses. No. 4 and the folded edge of the material in slot No. 1. The stitching should come as close to the edge as possible when doing work of this kind so that the edge will not curl up when laundered. (Ill. 52) Sample Made of Lawn and Val. Lnrc “*- LESSON No. 6 MAKING A CHEMISE—USING THE EDGE-STITCHER AND TUCKER Materials required: 2‘/4' yds. Batiste 6 “ Insertion 5 “ Edging. This attractive combination is made of pink batiste and trimmed with val. lace and insertion. lt requires no pattern, as your instructor will assist you with the cutting. (See Ill. 56.) First tuck a piece of material 20 inches by 10 inches in groups of live tucks with a space of about 1% inches between the groups. The Tucker is to be set for a fine pin tuck. After your tucking is finished, trim off the edges so that it measures 8 x 16 inches. Always try out your Tucker on a waste piece of material before starting to tuck for a garment. Cut your yoke as indicated by 11]. 57. You are now ready to sew your laces together for the trimming. (lll.55) 1-; 271F113 1 F 1 d“ '1 iiii'Ti l. “1? “at; F - i-"t @1121 H ti (Ill. 50) (Ill. 67) How to (‘ut Your Chemise How to Cut the Yoke Edge-Stitching the Lace and Insertion Together Attach the Edge-Stitcher to the machine and adjust for sewing laces together. Sew to- gether your lace and insertion. After you have adjusted your Attachment and started to join your lace, notice the small amount of time required to finish this work. You would hardly be- lieve it possible to do it in so short a time as compared to the tedious operation of basting by hand. You are now ready to apply the lace to the triangular pieces which form the yoke. Refer again to Ill. 57 and you will find a sketch of the front and back of the yoke ready to be attached. If the yoke is too large the points may be over~lapped a sufficient amount to make it fit properly. Stitching Up the Seams Sew up the first seams in your chemise following directions given in your night gown lesson. After your seam is trimmed close to the stitching it is folded and inserted in your Edge—Stitcher for the final stitching. Follow Fig. 13, page 29, for instructions for French seaming. You have now had instruction in making French seams with and without the Edge-Stitcher. You will find many times that it is necessary to understand both ways of making this seam and you will be able to choose for yourself which is more practical. The bottom of the chemise may be hemmed and the lace and insertion stitched to the edge of the hem with the Etlge-Stite'her, following Fig. 3. page 3, in your Edge—Stitcher lesson. If you desire to have this garment au'envelope chemise you may add a tab and apply hand- made buttonholes or snaps to fasten; or you may leave the side seams open for a distance of six inches and trim the edge with lace, as shown in the illustration. Joining the Yoke .\ band of the lace and insertion is then applied to the bottom of the yoke and to the top of the chemise. This edge may be finished by turning back the material and adding a second row of stitching and then overcast the raw edge, or it may be left trimmed close. A short stitch must always be used for this finish, as it insures a safe seam. A four-inch strip of lace and insertion is to be joined at the points of the yoke, thus making the garment low enough in the neck. The lace and insertion is to be joined with the lidge-Stitcher. The reason your ready-mades pull out so often is because of the poor stitching. You will find that home-made garments will wear at least twice as long as the ready-made ones. To Make a Round Medallion (Ill. 58) Sewing Lace to Paper Circle Cut a piece of paper the size of the desired medal- lion. Measure the width of lace from edge of paper to find out how large the center is to be. Cut a piece of cross—tucking large enough to form the center, allowing one-half inch to turn in. (ill. 59) Baste the cross-tucking to the paper. With the machine sew the outside edge of the lace to the outside edge of the paper, and the inside edge of the lace to the cross-tucking, pulling the thread in the lace to make it fit into a perfect circle. (ill. 60) Lesson No. 8 The Hemming Lesson--Hemming A Towel MAKING A TAILORED PLACKET LESSON No. 8 THE HEMMER LESSON—HEMMING A TOWEL For the inexperienced operator, the Hemmers require more practice than any of the other Attachments, so do not become discouraged when the first hems you make are not perfect. The material must be guided at all times so that too much or too little goods will not be fed into the Attachment, causing the hem to be uneven. The rule for operating the Hemmer can be applied to the Foot Hemmer, Adjustable Hem- mer or the Hemmer Set. Attach the Hemmer in place of the presser foot. Beginning at the point where the hem is to start, fold up one—eighth of an inch of the edge for a distance of about two inches, creasing the fold. Insert the folded edge in the Hemmer from the left, bringing it up and around the spoon, then draw it toward you until the beginning of the hem is under the needle. Lower the presser bar and proceed to sew. If too little cloth is fed in, hold the cloth to the right; if too much is being fed in, hold the cloth to the left. The Adjustable Hemmer is used with some machines in place of the Hemmer Set. By simply loosening the screw, and sliding the guide to the right or left, the Hemmer is adjusted for a wide or narrow hem. (ll. 73) Cut of Hemmer with Cloth Inserted The rule that must be followed when using the Hemmers is to hold the cloth in a straight line after it is inserted in the Attachment. When hemming over a seam, always press the seam as flat as possible before starting to sew. Never pull your material, as this will cause it to stretch and your hem will not come out even with the garment. When hemming soft material that is liable to stretch it is better to insert a piece of paper over the feed to prevent the goods from puckering and the hem from stretching. Paper should also be used to hem a soft bias edge, as it will keep the cloth from stretching. Table linen may be run through the Hemmer without using thread. Your linen will then be ready for the hand sewing and much time saved. Turning the Hem of Table Linen, Making It Ready for the Hand Work \Vhile it is desirable to have table linen hemmed by hand, the Hemmer may be used to make the turning. For this work the machine is not threaded. The size one Hemmer is used and a thread is pulled in the linen before starting to hem. You will find that much time has been saved through following this suggestion. (Ill. 76) Table Linen Turned with the Hemmer Hemming a Kitchen Towel Purchase one yard of toweling and hem the ends by using the Hemmer. Whip the hems at the edge as suggested in the above text. We would suggest that you use either the > size one or size two Hemmer. (Ill. 77 Quilting (Ill. 18) Fold a crease in the cloth to be quilted as a guide for the first line of stitching, thereafter guiding each succeeding line by holding the cloth so that the last line of stitching made is run directly under the guide, as shown in the illustration. (All samples of work to he lent to the Institute.) Hemming and Sewing on Lace with the Foot Hemmer (ill. 74) Hemming and Sewing on Lace with the Foot Hemmer You will find that you have a small Hemmer very similar to the one shown in the above illustration. After you have learned to make a plain hem with this Attachment lace may be inserted in the slot at the right. You must guide your hem with one hand and the lace with the other. You must spend some time at practice with your Hemmer. You will be well repaid for your time, as they will save you many hours of labor. Projects for Lesson No. 8 Hemming Toweling A small piece of toweling is to be hemmed with the size , one or size two Hemmer. The material must not be pulled, as the lines will not exactly match if this is done. \Vhen hemming towels leave the thread ends sufficiently long in order that they may be tied, and after one thread is cut the other may be threaded into a hand-sewing needle and the edge of the hem caught together with a whip stitch. (Ill. 75) Hemmed Toweling LESSON No. 7 THE RUFFLER AND SHIRRER LESSON (Ill. 62) Substitute the Ruffier for the presser foot, by placing the Rufiier foot (A) in position on the presser bar. The forked arm (B) of the Rufiier should first be set astride the needle clamp. Tighten the Attachment screw firmly by turning it to the right, then turn the hand-wheel slowly to see if the needle passes through the center of the hole in the foot of the Rufiier. The lines 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 show how to place the different pieces of cloth in the Ruffler. If you do not have the type of Ruffier here shown these directions for attaching and ad- justing will apply. The forked arm (B) on all Rufflers is practically the same and the adjusting screw is usually at location (C). Study your Sewing Machine Instruction Book in connection with this lesson To Adjust the Fullness of the Gather Insert the cloth in the Ruffler between the blades, following line two. Lower the presser bar and proceed to sew. Now turn the adjusting screw (C) to the right; you will find the fullness is increased as you turn this screw down. Now turn the screw up, or to the left, and notice how the fullness decreases. Adjust your Rufiler for an ordinary gather and lengthen the stitch on your machine. You will now note that the gathers are scant, but the plaits are not as fine and perfect as when the fullness is decreased with the adjusting screw. To increase the fullness turn the adjusting screw to the right. To decrease turn to the left. Ruinng, Sewing to Garment and Adding a Facing at One Operation The garment is placed in the Ruffler. following line 1, the ruffle following line 2 and the facing following line 3. It will be necessary for you to guide these bands. keeping them well in the . tachment. You will not find this difiicult to do. You will readily see. what a great amount of time can be saved through using your Ruffier for such operations as this. (111. (as) Sewing :1 Ruffle to a Garment and Sewing a Facing at One Stitching Piping a Ruffle [f the ruffle for this operation is to be more than 1% inches it will be necessary for you to use your Shirring Plate for this operation. Your lesson on the use of the Shirrer will explain why. The ruffle is to be placed in the Rufiler, following line 2, and must be pulled through so that the finished edge comes to the right of the blade. The last guide on the Ruffler underblade can be used to keep this heading even. The piping is placed following line 4 and the band, which has first been folded, is inserted following line 5. uu. a») Piping a Ruflic and Sewing it to Finished Band at One Operation F _q. _— fi_— ": gal-t-u Making Plaiting With the Five-Stitch Ruffier 1mm“) if your machine is supplied with a Five-Stitch Ruffier you will find many ways in which you can apply this trimming to your garments. If it is not and you desire to have one for your machine ask your sewing machine dealer to supply you with one. If you cannot purchase same for your type of machine you will b) able to make many pretty trimmings with your type of Ruffler such as are obtained in Ill. 63. If you have the Five-Stitch Rufliler we ask you to refer to your machine instruction book for directions as to how this Ruffler is adjusted. The effect of this is to make one plait every fifth stitch, instead of at each stitch as in ordinary ruffiing. The cloth is inserted and held. and adjustments are made exactly as in plain ruffiing. The adjusting screw must be turned down or to the right as far as it will go for plaiting. The Shirring Lesson .‘\ _ 'i ‘2‘* . . .. .. r5" . -' ‘ _‘ be t“ wwwp.“ ‘ ‘ “\‘il‘mé‘ Zi\_-;t.\*rt.\‘i- _ .\ pt") . \Wk ‘1" " ' (lll.65| For shirring in rows or piping a wide rufiie the Shirring Plate must be used in connection with the Rufi‘ier. As you will note from your practice with the Ruffier the cloth to be gathered is inserted between the blades. If you will try to put a wide piece of cloth between the blades, you will find that the separator or part to which your underblade is attached is in the way. As the Shirring Plate takes the place of the underblade on the Rulifler it is necessary to remove the separator before using the Shirring Plate. The separator of the Ruffier is removed either by loosening the screw on the side of the Attachment or by turning it over back as shown in the above illustration. Your instruction book must be consulted for this operation. Your instruction book will also tell you how to attach the Shirrer to the machine. After the separator of the Ruffler is removed and the Shirring Plate is attached the Ruffler is placed on the machine and operated as before. You will find that you are now able to place a large piece of material between the blades. To Shirr in Straight Rows Crease the material in rows the proper distance apart. then press with a hot iron and stitch on the creases. The Quilter may also be used to guide your rows of shirring. Your instructor will tell you how. ._-. __- Lesson No. 9 The Braiding Lesson--Making A Linen Scarf Smocking -. _I-,_ll V;.__. _ - _ _ _44 __‘fmfl Sleeve Placket for Shirt This tailored placket is used on men’s shirts and tailored shirt waists. Before stitching up sleeve, placket must be faced. Cut opening four inches deep about one inch from fold on under side of sleeve, on stripe. Cut facings according to draft, point of pattern on stripe, or matching line of gash. g E z -||\l 1'“ [IN . HH' gm. _g. ' _Z. » I: -IN I .- JN -|N q 1!) (III. B) | - IN. 24 (Ill. A) Under Facing—Lay right side of binding against wrong side of sleeve on under side of slash. Stitch M; inch from edge; turn facing back on seam and then on line of slash; turn in %; inch on other side and stitch on edge. For Upper Facing—Lay right side of binding against wrong side of sleeve; stitch %;-inch from edge. Open seam flat. Fold facing to right side, so point of placket comes in line with gash. Turn in %;-inch around point and on long side, stitch twice across just below end of gash. LESSON No. 9 THE BRAIDING LESSON—MAKING A LINEN SCARF l 0 (Ill. 79) Directions for Using the Underbraider Insert the braid in the Underbraider by threading it through the tube, then attach it to the machine as shown in the instruction book. Always use the braider foot, which is cut away in the front, when using the Underbraider. (See 111. 81.) To Copy Braiding Designs Braiding designs may be purchased at any pattern counter and should be continuous as nearly as possible. Use several sheets of ordinary wrapping 'paper if you wish to save copies of any pattern; pin the design to the sheets and stitch with the sewing machine without using thread in the needle. The braider foot instead of the sewing foot should be used for this work, as it allows the operator to follow the design better, just as in braiding. The perforated pattern is then pinned or basted to the material and after the design is worked the paper is torn off. To Start Braiding Insert the braid in the Underbraider and attach it to the machine. Lower the presser foot and stitch for a short distance to make sure the line of stitching comes in the center of the braid. If it is to one side adjust the Braider over slightly by pushing it with the screw driver. The stitch for braiding should be of ordinary length unless the design consists of short curves-5’ it is then better to have the stitch a trifle shorter. The braiding design should be stamped on the wrong side of the material. To Turn a Square Corner With the needle piercing the braid, raise the presser bar and turn your cloth in the proper direction, lower the bar and proceed to sew. By following these directions you will be enabled to turn a square corner perfectly and at the same time keep the goods from puckering. Finishing the Ends of Braid \Vhen the braiding is finished punch a hole in the material with the point of the scissors or the stiletto, push the braid through to the wrong side and fasten by hand. If care is taken when doing this the hole made by the stiletto can hardly be detected. Kinds of Braid to Use Several different kinds of braid may be used with the Underbraider, but the most popular is soutache, which comes in silk or cotton. Another braid that is used for fancy work such as pillows, scarfs, etc., is the pigtail braid. This braid also comes in silk or cotton and in a variety of shades and colors. The gold and silver cord braid can also be used with the Underbraider. Projects for Lesson No. 9 The braid and material can be of any color. The stitching must come in the center of the braid and the tension must be perfect. If your design consists of sharp curves it will be necessary to run the machine slowly in order to follow the pattern. £111.80) Braiding Net When braiding net it is necessary to have the design perforated on paper, as it would be impossible to stamp on this material and keep it from stretching. It is often necessary to insert another piece of. paper under the braider foot next to the feed of the machine. This is also true when braiding chiffon. This will keep the material per- fectly flat and the appearance of the finished work will pay for the extra care taken. (Ill. 81) Braiding With Pigtail Braid This sample to be made of pigtail braid. When using this style of braid it is better to chose a pattern with the lines not too close together, as the braid flattens out after it is stitched. A pillow or hand bag is very effective when trimmed with this braid. For this sample use the design furnished by your instructor. (Ill. 82) Braided Loops Sew a strip of fine lawn through the Binder, attach the Braider to the machine and sew a row of braid through the center of the strip. Finish the loops as described in Lesson 2. ‘ (Ill. 83) Braiding a Scarf or Pillow (111.84) Your instructor will furnish you with a braiding pattern for a scarf and pillow. We would suggest that you use both, thus making a very practical set for living-room or den. Purchase linen or crash in tan or white as desired and soutache braid in a contrasting color. The scarf and pillow are very pretty made of tan linen and braided with golden-brown silk braid. The wide hem may be hemstitched. (See directions below for hemstitching.) This set will require three and one-half yards of linen or crash and three pieces of braid. The scarf alone requires two yards and two pieces of braid. To Make Hemstitching Hemstitching is a line of open work made by drawing out parallel threads and fastening the cross threads in successive small clusters. Draw as many threads from the material as desired LESSON No. 10 ALTERATION OF SHIRT WAIST PATTERNS—MAKING A SHIRT WAIST The directions for the alteration of shirt waist patterns will also apply to any dress or coat pattern that you may select later on with your sewing. Commercial patterns are made to fit model figures and very often need alteration, just as ready made dresses usually need alteration to fit properly. For this reason we desire to teach you to alter paper patterns rather than to make a dress and then alter the dress. (Ill. 89) To Lengthen the Waist Line (Ill. 90) Very often a garment is spoiled because it is cut too short waisted. Hold the pattern up to your figure from the shoulder and if it is too short in the waist, cut the pattern as indicated by 111. 89. Separate the pattern by pasting a strip of paper to hold it in shape. The back should also be altered the same amount and should be cut as indicated by Ill. 90. To Add Fullness to Bust or Increase the Shoulder Seam If you find it necessary to add fullness to the bust or increase the shoulder line, cut your pattern as indicated by Ill. 91 and insert a strip of paper in the pattern. The back must also be altered the same amount as shown by Ill. 92. (Ill. 91) (111.92) To Lengthen the Sleeve If the sleeve is too short from the under arm to the cuff cut the pattern as shown by Ill. 93. You must always alter a sleeve at these two points in order to keep the proper shape. If you take the length from the sleeve all _ from the elbow down the sleeve will draw and pull up. (Ill. 93) To Add Fullness to the Sleeve If the sleeve is too tight cut the pattern through the center as shown by Ill. 94. If you then find it necessary to tighten the sleeve at the cuff it can be done by taking it in at the under arm seam from the elbow down. The sleeve should not be altered from the elbow down until after it has been attached to the arm hole. (Ill. 94) To Shorten the Waist Line For a short waisted figure over lap the pat- tern as shown in Ill. 95 and pin or paste the fold in position. The back must also be altered as shown in Ill. 96. CAUTION. Do not make the mistake of folding too large a tuck. It is better to measure the figure and then the pattern to make sure that they correspond. (“1.95) (111.96) ll’l ‘ 0| ll!" (1% LESSON No. 11 Making the Blouse--Continued A WASHABLE amass n \‘._u'_ __ 'i .\! H! Ill, ,1 '. I‘ll" \. In ll'J/l\ ' -- _———-;_—.__ ‘_—I _- _ ___-_— a MAKING A SHIRTWAIST This attractive blouse, which is made of fine white organdie, can be fashioned from lawn, batiste or thin silk if you prefer. However, we believe you will be more pleased if you select organdie, as this material is easily laundered and quite easy to sew on. If made of 40-inch organdie it will require: 2% yards of material @ .75c. .......... $1.88 One-half dozen buttons ................. .10 Thread (size 100) ...................... .05 Total Cost .......................... $1.65 (III. 101) The lesson on the alteration of patterns will allow you to properly fit the plain shirt waist pattern you purchase for use with this lesson, All trimmings are added before the blouse is cut. Measure the amount of material required for the length of the front, and if your material is wide enough to allow for the cutting of the two fronts from the one width, tuck both sides of the material. If the material is not wide enough to allow for the cutting of two fronts measure enough for two fronts and make your tucks in one continuous length. To Trim the Blouse Tuck your material in two groups of five pin tucks very close together. These clusters should be started about two inches from the edge of your material and should be two inches apart. Make two clusters of tucks. The space between the tucks will allow for your plaited trimming to be attached. To Cut the Strips for Plaiting The strips for plaiting should be cut on the cross wise of the material from selvedge to sel- vedge and may be measured and cut with your cutting gauge set at “F.” Measure around your col- lar, cuffs and down the front and allow three times this length for plaiting strips. Cut sufficient strips and sew them together in one continuous strip and then hem one edge with the narrow foot hemmer. Press well before plaiting. Plaiting the Strips Try out your ruffler with a small piece of the material you are using for your blouse. Set your stitch to bring the plaits quite close together. If you do not have the five stitch ruffler you may set your ruffler for a fine scant gather or you may use the fullest plait and the longest stitch that the machine will make. Plait or gather your strips and bring to next class. Also bring material for washable dress, and dress pattern 8475 Pictorial Review Style B, or another pattern of similar style; so we can start it in our next lesson. The pattern will state the number of yards required for the width of material you are using. Note illustrations given in lesson No. 11 when selecting your pattern. ll. 12. 13. Double; lay right sides together and stitch on three sides. CuEs Turn. Lay wrong side of cufl' to wrong side of sleeve. Stitch. Turn the seam down into the cuff. Turn in V4 inch on the other edge of cuff and stitch to sleeve. Turn cuff back on sleeve. b. ' Belt or Girdle Double. Lay right sides together, stitch all around the edges, leaving one end open. Turn right side out. Turn in edges at open end and stitch. Single. Hem all around, arrange on figure, and tack loosely at front, sides and back. . Ribbon or silk. Suggestions . Sleeves may be short. b. An additional collar and cuff set may be made of tucked organdie. . Vest may be tucked or trimmed with insertion. . Vest may be made of tucked organdie. Tunic may be tucked or trimmed with insertion to correspond with vest. Reversed hem, collar and cuffs may be piped with plaid if dress is of plain material, or vice warm; or narrow plaiting may be set in reversed hem, vest, collar and cuffs. . Pockets may be added. Organdie and Cross Tuck: finishing. tions for making waist and sleeves. Serge and Military Braid There is nothing smarter than a tailor—made frock of tricolette or serge, and this model is especially suitable for these materials. Military braid makes a very effective trimming for this dress. The braid can be stitched in position with the edge—stitcher without basting. Measure and mark with tailor’s chalk where the braid is to be sewed, attach edge-stitcher, and proceed with your work. Ease braid when stitching so material will not puckcr. It would be well ‘to try it on a small piece of material first. Follow all general directions for washable dress except for seams. All seams in wool must be plain, and finished with binding. hem plus V2 inch for a turn on each edge. Simplicity is the keynote of this lovely little frock of batiste or voile. In making the peplum for this dress, we first make our piece of cross-tucking the width we desire, stitch the lace on each side, then cut the material for the hem twice the width of the finished Stitch lace on to double hem. From the desired length of the finished peplum, subtract the width of hem and the cross-tucking and cut the upper section this amount, plus two inches allowed for Join lace to upper section of peplum, and follow general direc- 3: 'Il