Healths improvement: or, Rules comprizing and discovering the nature, method, and manner of preparing all sorts of food used in this nation. Written by that ever famous Thomas Muffett, Doctor in Physick: corrected and enlarged by Christopher Bennet, Doctor in Physick, and fellow of the Colledg of Physitians in London. Moffett, Thomas, 1553-1604. 1655 Approx. 606 KB of XML-encoded text transcribed from 155 1-bit group-IV TIFF page images. Text Creation Partnership, Ann Arbor, MI ; Oxford (UK) : 2008-09 (EEBO-TCP Phase 1). A89219 Wing M2382 Thomason E835_16 ESTC R202888 99863026 99863026 115208 This keyboarded and encoded edition of the work described above is co-owned by the institutions providing financial support to the Early English Books Online Text Creation Partnership. This Phase I text is available for reuse, according to the terms of Creative Commons 0 1.0 Universal . The text can be copied, modified, distributed and performed, even for commercial purposes, all without asking permission. Early English books online. (EEBO-TCP ; phase 1, no. A89219) Transcribed from: (Early English Books Online ; image set 115208) Images scanned from microfilm: (Thomason Tracts ; 127:E835[16]) Healths improvement: or, Rules comprizing and discovering the nature, method, and manner of preparing all sorts of food used in this nation. Written by that ever famous Thomas Muffett, Doctor in Physick: corrected and enlarged by Christopher Bennet, Doctor in Physick, and fellow of the Colledg of Physitians in London. Moffett, Thomas, 1553-1604. Bennet, Christopher, 1617-1655. [8], 296 p. Printed by Tho: Newcomb for Samuel Thomson, at the sign of the white Horse in Pauls Churchyard, London, : 1655. With a preliminary imprimatur leaf. Annotation on Thomason copy: "May. 8.". Reproduction of the original in the British Library. 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Nutrition -- England -- Early works to 1800. 2007-05 TCP Assigned for keying and markup 2007-06 Apex CoVantage Keyed and coded from ProQuest page images 2007-07 John Latta Sampled and proofread 2007-07 John Latta Text and markup reviewed and edited 2008-02 pfs Batch review (QC) and XML conversion Healths Improvement : OR , RULES Comprizing and Discovering The Nature , Method , and Manner of Preparing all sorts of FOOD Used in this NATION . Written by that ever Famous THOMAS MVFFETT , Doctor in PHYSICK : Corrected and Enlarged BY CHRISTOPHER BENNET , Doctor in Physick , and Fellow of the Colledg of Physitians in London . LONDON , Printed by Tho : Newcomb for Samuel Thomson , at the sign of the white Horse in Pauls Churchyard , 1655. Imprimatur , FRANCIS PRUJEAN , President . BALDUINUS HAMEY , GEORGE ENT . EDMUND WILSON . CHRISTOPH . BENNET Censors . The Table . CHAP. I. 1. WHat Diet is . 2. Who were the Authors of it . 3. What good it bringeth . 1 Chap. 2. 1 How many sorts of Diet there be . 2. Wherein Diet consisteth materially . 3. Wherein Diet consisteth formally . 2 Chap. 3. and 4. Of Aire . 1. How it is to be chosen . 12 2. How it is to be prepared . 20 3. How it is to be used . 20 Chap. 5. Of Meat , and the differcnces thereof , in Kind , Substance , Temperature and Taste . 29 Chap. 6 Of Meats . How they differ in Preparation , Age and Sex. 41 Chap. 7. 1 How many sorts of flesh there be . 2. Whether flesh or fish were first eaten of , and whether of them is the purest and best nourishment . 50 Chap. 8. Of the flesh of tame Beasts . 58 Chap. 9. Of the Flesh of wild Beasts , or Venison : 71 Chap. 10. Of the Flesh of tame Birds . 79 Chap. 11. Of the Flesh of wild Foul , abiding and feeding chiefly upon the Land. 90 Chap. 12. Of the flesh of wild Foul , abiding and feeding chiefly upon the waters . 106 Chap. 13. Of the Inwards and Outwards both of Beasts and Birds . 110 Chap. 14. Of Milk. 119 Chap. 15. Of Butter , Cream , Curds , Cheese and Whey . 128 Chap. 16. Of Egs and Blood. 134 Chap. 17. Of Fish generally , and the difference thereof . 141 Chap. 18. Of Sea-fish . 147 Chap. 19. Of fresh-water fish . 175 Chap. 20. Of such living Creatures and Meats , as be neither Flesh nor Fish , and yet give good nourishment to the Body . 190 Chap. 21. Of Fruit and the differences thereof . 194 Chap. 22. Of all Orchard Fruit. 195 Chap. 23. Of such Fruits of the Garden , as are nourishing . 215 Chap. 24. Of such Fruits of the Field , as are nourishing . 231 Chap. 25. Of the Variety , Excellency , Making and true use of Bread. 235 Chap. 26. Of Salt , Sugar and Spice . 245 Chap. 27. Of the necessary use and abuse of Sawces , and whereon they consist . 253 Chap. 28. Of variety of Meats , that it is necessary and convenient . 258 Chap. 30. Of the quantity of Meats . 273 Chap. 31. Of the quality of Meats . 285 Chap. 32. Of the Time , Order and Manner of Eating . 289 To the Reader T Is not an itch to be in print , but my Profession to keep men alive , and when gone to recover and revive them , that hath induced me to this undertaking ▪ Blame me not therefore for using means to raise our Author out of the dust , and long oblivion , wherein he was buried : T is true , his own relations and their interests much sollicited my help ; but the merits of the man were my greatest motives , and his Old Fame most quickned me to restore him ▪ Seriously , upon perusal , I found so much Life and Pulse in his dead Works , that it had not been charity in me to let him dye outright , specially when t is for the worlds good and your ( Healths Improvement . ) This is all , only if it may be any advantage to have my Judgement , t is a Piece for my palate , not likely to dis-relish any , where so much pleasure is interlarded with our profit ▪ I may safely say , upon this subject I know none that hath done better ; and were Platina , Apicius , or Alexandrinus , with all the rest of Dietetick writers now alive , they would certainly own , and highly value this Discourse . Accept then kindly his endevors , that strives to do you good both in publick and private . Farewell . Chr. Bennet . CHAP. I. 1. What Diet is . 2. Who were the authors of it . 3. What good it bringeth . DIet is defined by very learned Scholars , an exact order in Labour , Meat , Drink , Sleep , and Venery . For they are thought to be Pythagoras his pentangle or five squar'd figure , wherein ( as Hipocrates saith of mans body ) there be several confluences and concurrences ; yet but one general Sympathy through all Nevertheless Labor was appointed for most to invite meat and drink : they to draw on sleep , for the ease of our labours : and all four , to perfit generation ; which is not onely essendi sed semper essendi causa ; not onely the cause of being but of ever being : for indeed after we are dead in our selves , we recover in our posterity another life . But in this Treatise I define Diet more particularly ( as it is usually taken both by the vulgar and also the best Physitians ) to be an orderly and due course observed in the use of bodily nourishments , for the preservation recovery or continuance of the health of mankind . Which how and when it was first invented and by whom collected , neither Cardan , nor Scaliger , nor Virgil , nor Montuus , nor Biesius , nor Jason Pratensis , nor Psellus , nor any ( in my judgement ) have more truely declared , then Hippocrates himself ; avouching that Necessity was the mother , and Reason the father of Diet. For when sickness crept into the world , and men gave the same meats to sick folks which they did to the healthful , they perceived them to be so far from recovery , that they rather wax'd worse and worse . Hereupon being enforced to alter either the kind or the preparation , or the quantity , or the quality and order of nourishments : they knew by diligent observation what was fittest for every disease , for every sexe , age , and complexion , and accordingly committed them to memory , or set them down in writing . Plutarch thinks that we first learned this knowledg of brute Beasts . For Pigeons and Cocks before they fight , will eate store ( if they can get it ) of cummin seed to lengthen their breath : and Nightingales eate spiders to prevent stoppings ; and Lions having surfeited on flesh , abstaine from all meat til it be digested . So the Marlin taught tender persons first to keep warm their feet , the Storkes to remedy costiveness of body by the use of glisters , the Hedghog to avoid walking in windy seasons , the little Birds to bathe in Summer , the Flies and Bees to keep home in Winter . For there is no doubt but the natures of men were in former ages so strong , that they did eate and digest every thing as it grew . Neither were Mills , Boulters , Ovens , and artificial preparations from the beginning ; but as sickness of the body encreased , so the mind devised remedies , teaching men how to thrash and grind corne , to make bread , to boil , roast , and bake meat , to give thinne and liquid meats to weak stomacks , and grosser cates to them that be strong , after the example of every Bird ; who first softneth and boileth the meat in their mawes , before they give it to their young ones , neither should we marvail hereat ; For as ignorant Sailers ( whose errours and imperfections no man could perceive in a calm sea ) in a tempest do follow every mans advise : So the examples of Birds and Beasts did teach sick men wisdome , when through self-ignorance they lost the light of nature , and knew not what was good for themselves . But leave we Plutarchs conceit , and let us fetch the invention of Diet from a more worthy teacher , yea from the worthiest of all other , God himself . For can we imagine that he taught our forefathers ( having sinned ) how to cloath their bodies , and not how , and when , and wherewith to feed them ? He that taught Abel how to diet sheep , would he leave him unskilful how to diet himself ? or had Cain the art of tilling the ground , and not the knowledge how to use the grain thereof ? Knew Physicians in Iacobs time how to conserve dead bodies , and wanted they knowledge to preserve the living ? Wherefore how foolishly soever some ascribe the invention of Diet to Apollo , Aesculapius , and that many-eide Osiris , or to Hippocrates , Galen , or Asclepiades : yet let this rest immoveable , that it springeth from an elder time , then that any heathenish Chronicle is able to record the author thereof . For if the multitude of burials be an argument of ill diet , and contrariwise long life an argument of good ; it must needs follow , that before the Universal Floud this noble knowledge of diet was not hid from the first Patriarcks , but as perfitly perceived as it was practised . For till after the Floud , men usually lived to eight hundred years , some to nine , many to seven , and none ( for ought we have heard or read ) dyed a natural death before five . Now if any man shall object , that the very name of Diet is not mentioned before the Floud , and that therefore the thing it self was not in use : I can shape him no better answer then from the mouth of Hippocrates : Names are the Daughters of men , but things the Sons of nature . So that assoon as men began to feed , no doubt they were inspired with wisdome how much , how often , and of what to feed . For we must not imagine , though they had as it were Ostriches stomacks , and Giants strength , ( insomuch that Lamech in his wound could crush into peices the mightiest champion of our age ) that therefore they neglected preparation or proportion in the use of nourishments ; nay reason it self will conclude , that as one shooe did not fit every mans foot , nor children and young men fed alike in those dayes , so every man knew or was taught his peculiar diet , most proper healthful and convenient for his owne estate . Wherefore as many disseases are recovered with our Physicians , but none without Physick : so albeit there lived no dietary Physitians before the Floud ( if I should grant so much ) yet no man can deny , that through feeding or fasting , drinking or thirsting , taking this thing or refusingthat , they preserved their life-oile ( as I may term it ) for many ages , which in this surfeiting and riotous age is commonly consumed in less then one . But some men will further object against me . What Sir ? may diet prolong a mans life ? why then through diet we may prove immortal , or at the least live as long as Adam did . Whereunto I answer , that albeit immortality is denied upon the earth to mortal men , yet so much life is prolonged by a good diet , by how much disseases thereby are eschewed . For as Solomon saith , to whom is pain of the belly , and gripings , and redness of eyes , and want of health ? even to those that keep no measure , but greedily hunt after wine , and rise up earely to drink strong drinke . Some in Hippocrates time , seeing precise observers of Physick to dye assoon as they which used no physick , conceived presently no otherwise of Physicians , them as of Kings in a stage play ; carrying golden crownes , and scepters , and swords , commanding for the time whole Empires , but indeed void of in-borne Majesty in them selves , and of outward abillity fit for so high a caling . So now in our daies the name of Diet seems but a scare-crow to the unwiser sort , who think it best diet , to keep no diet at all , saying ( as Will. Sommers said to Sir John Rainsford ) drink Wine and have the gout , drink no Wine and have it too . Which in effect what is it else , then with the Sicilians to erect a Temple to riot : or with the Barbarians to praise surfeiting ? or with Ulisses drunken companions to open Aeolus his bottle all at once ? whereby their Ship was so far from proceeding , that all art and prayers , yea and all the Gods ( in a manner ) were not able to keep it above the waters . Let me laugh ( said Democritus ) at mens follies , who diet their horses , sheep , cattel , yea their capons , and geese , and yet themselves keep no diet . They foresee by porking of raven , flying of kites , croking of frogs , and bathing of ducks , when it will raine ; yet surfeiting dayly they cannot foresee their own ruine . To the like purpose singeth a French Poet. Si tu veux viure sainement Aye pour toy tel pensement : Que de ton cheval falcon on chien , Quand autre chose leur vint que bien . If sickness thou wilt long award , Have of thy self that due regard , Which to their falcons , Steeds , or Hounds Men bear , when sickness them surrounds . And truely well might the one laugh , and the other sing at such follies . For albeit an exquisire thin diet ( called of Ioubertus the inch-diet , wherein we eat by drams , and drink by spoonfuls ) more perplexeth the mind then cureth the body , engendring a jealousie over every meat , suspition on every quantity , dread , fear , and terrour over every proportion ( bereaving the head of quietness , the heart of security , and the stomack consequently of good concoction ) yet the full diet as it is more usual , so is it in effect no less dangerous . Would you see the discommodities of excess ? why then imagine you saw Verres rouling before break of day in his own Vomits , Dyonisius belching up a soure and unpleasant breath , Polyphemus stript of wit and memory , Cleomenes King of Lacedemonia playing after his drunkenness at cherrypit with Children , Elpenor ( Ulisses his companion ) breaking his neck downe the staires , Ennius racked with the Sciatica ▪ Riglus the wrestler dead of an apoplexie , Anacreon so unable to swallow any more drink that he was strangled with a grapes kernel , Vibius Crispus dying at the stool , an old English Knight dying at the Chamberpot . On the otherside will it please you to mark the commodities of diet , and moderate nourishing ? Then behold Timotheus , who being continually sick through dayly surfetting , came once to Platoes Table , where he fed ( as the company did ) and drank moderately . The next morning he cryed out with this admiration : ▪ O sweet Plato , sweet Plato ; how truely sweet are thy suppers , which make us to sleep and awake so sweetly ? How able am I now to all exercises , being erst so unable to the least labour ? No marvel Timothy : for as the Sun cannot warm us when Clouds be between : So excess either fetters or divides the minds , faculties . How careful is the mind alwaies to preserve life ? yet many a drunkard sinks under water , because reason cannot teach him the art of swiming , the inward sences being choaked with abundance of clammy vapours . Divine Hippocrate ( whom I can never sufficiently name nor honour ) compareth diet most fitly to a Potters wheele , going neither forward nor backward , but ( as the world it self moveth ) equally round : moistning that which is too dry , drying up that which is too moist , restoring true flesh if it be decaid , abating proud flesh ( by abstinence ) if it be too much , neither drawing too much upward nor downward ( as peevish Sawyers do : ) neither clapping on too much nor too little Sail ( like unskilfull Mariners ) but giving ( like a wise Steward ) every part his allowance by geometrical proportion , that the whole household and family may be kept in health Such a steward was Asclepiades , who cured by onely Diet infinite diseases . Such an one was Galen , that famous Physitian , who being three or four times sick before he was twenty eight years old , looked afterwards more strictly to his diet ; in such sort that a hundred years following he was never sick but once , and died onely through want of radical moisture . Such an one finally was Hippocrates , who lived till he was a hundred and nine years old ( or at the least till he was fourscore and five ) without any memorable sickness , and yet he had by nature but a weak head , insomuch that he ever wore a night cap. Wherefore let us neither with the impudent , call diet a frivolous knowledge , or a curious science with the imprudent : but embrace it as the leader to perfit health , ( which as the wise man saith ) is above gold , and a sound body above all riches . The Romans once banished Physitians out of Rome , under pretence that physick druggs weakened the peoples stomacks : and Cooks , for corrupting and enforcing appetites with strange sawces and seasonings : and Perfumers , and Anointers , and Bathe-masters , because they did rather mollifie and effeminante the Romans mindes , then any whit profit or help their bodies . Yet they retained Cato , the chief dietist of that time , and all them that were able ( without physick ) to prevent or cure diseases : esteeming diet ( as it is indeed ) to be so honest , pleasant , and profitable a science , that even malice it self cannot but commend it , and her enemies are forced to retaine it . Thus much or rather too much , in the commendation of Diet ; for which some Spartane censor would severely punish me , as Antalaides did the Orator that prais'd Hercules , whom no wiseman ever discommended . For howsoever idle heads have made these addle proverbs . 1. Dieted bodies are but bridges to Physicians mindes . 2. We shall live till we dye in despight of Diet . 3. Every dissease will have his course . 4. More Rubarb and less Diet , &c. Yet the wisest man and King of all others , hath established it upon such grounds , as neither can nor shall ever be shaken with all their malice . CHAP. II. 1. How many sorts of Diet there be . 2. Wherein Diet consisteth materially . 3. Wherein Diet consisteth formally ▪ 1. THere be especially three sorts of Diets ; a full Diet , a moderate Diet , and a thin Diet. The first increaseth flesh , spirits , and humors , the second repaireth onely them that were lost , and the third lesseneth them all for a time , to preserve life . Full Diet is proper unto them which be young , growing , strong , lusty , and able through their good constitution to endure much exercise . Moderate Diet is fittest for persons of a middle health , whose estate of body is neither perfectly strong nor over-weak . Thin Diets are never to be used , especially in the strictest kind , but where violent diseases ( caused either of fulness or corruption ) have the preheminence : wherein how much the body wanteth sufficient food , so much the sickness wanteth his tyrannical vigour . 2. The matter of Diet , is neither iron nor steel , nor silver , nor coral , nor pearl , no nor gold it self ; from which worthy simples , albeit most rare and effectual sustenances be drawn ( as our own Countryman of all other , most learnedly proveth ) to strengthen our body , and to thicken our radical moisture , which is soon consumed ( like a fine spirit of wine ) when it is too thin and subtile : yet neither have they , neither can they have a nourishing power , because our natural heat will be tired before it can convert their oyle into our oyle , their substance into our substance , be it never so cunningly and finely exalted . Furthermore , if it be true ( which Hippocrates and reason telleth us ) that as contraries are expelled by contraries , so like is sustained by his like : How should the liquors of gold , pearl , and precious stones ( which the Chymists have named Immortal essences ) nourish or augment our mortal substance ? Nay doth not that soonest restore decayed flesh ( as milk , gellie , strong broaths , and young lamb , which soonest corrupteth , if it be not presently eaten ? Is not a young snite more nourishing ( yet it keeps not long sweet ) then a peacock that will not corrupt nor putrifie in a whole year , no not in thirty years ( saith Kiranides ) though it be buried in the ground ? yet as a candles end of an inch long being set in cold water , burneth twice as long as another out of water ; not because water nourisheth the flame , which by nature it quencheth , nor because it encreaseth the tallow , which admits no water , but by moistning the circumfluent aire , and thickning the tallow , whereby the flame is neither so light nor lively as it would be otherwise : in like sort , the substances , powders , and liquors of the things aforesaid , may perhaps hinder the speedy spending of natural heat , by outward cooling of fiery spirits , inward thickning of too liquid moistures , hardning or condensating of flaggy parts ; but their durableness and immortality ( if they be immortal ) are sufficient proofs that they are no nourishments for corruptible men . But they are pure essences , and therefore suitable to our radical moisture , which the best Physicians derive from a starr-like substance . Alas , pure fools ! what doe you vaunt and brag of purity , when the purest things do least nourish ? for had not the aire , water , and earth , certain impurities , how should men , beasts , birds , fishs , and plants continue ? for the finer the aire , the less it nourishes , the clearer the water , the less it fatneth , the simpler the ground , the less it succoureth : yea were we in an air ( such as the element of aire it self is defined to be ) void of invisible seeds , and those impalpable substances or resekens that are sometimes descried by the Sun-beams , our spirits should find no more sustenance by it , then a dry man drink in an empty hogshead . And though we see Pikes to live a great while in Cisterns with clear water alone , yet were that water so pure as the element it self , they would clean consume for want of nourishment . The like may be said of plants growing in a dry , crumbling , sapless and unmingled earth , wherein we should see them quickly so far from sprouting , that for want of their restorrative moisture they would come ▪ to withering . Wherefore I conclude , Neither Oriental stones for their clearness , nor pearls for their goodliness , nor coral for his temperating of bloud , nor gold for his firmness , nor liquor of gold for his purity , nor the quintessences of them all for their immortality , are to be counted nourishments , or the matters of Diet. Object not the Ostrich his consuming of stone and mettals , to prove that therefore they may nourish man ; no more then the duck , nightingale , or stork , to prove that toads , adders and spiders are nourishing meats : For our nourishment ( properly taken ) is that nature or substance , which encreaseth or fostereth our body , by being converted into our substance . Now for as much as our bodies ( like the bodies of all sensible and living creatures else ) consist of a treble substance , namely , aerial Spirits , liquid humors , and confirmed parts : it is therefore necessary it should have a treble nourishment answerable to the same ; which Hippocrates truly affirmeth to be Air , Meat , and Liquors . Meat is a more gross and corporeal substance , taken either from vegetables in the earth , or creatures living upon the earth , or living ever or sometimes in the water , whereby the grosser part of our body is preserved-liquors are thin and liquid nourishment , serving as a sled to convey meat to every member , and converted most easily into humors . Now whereas Pliny nameth some which never eat meat , and Apollonius and Athenaeus , other which never drank ; they are but few and particular persons ( yea perhaps the sons of Devils ) ▪ which cannot overthrow the general rule and course of nature . It is possible to God ( as the Devil truly objected ) to make stones as nourishing as bread ; to feed men with locusts ) a most fretting , burning , and scalding vermin ) as he did John Baptist : to give us stones instead of bread , and to give us scorpions when we ask eggs : yet usually he doth not transgress the course of nature , by which , as by his bayliff , he rules the world : so that when any man lived without meat or drink ( as Moses and Elias did forty daies ) it is rather to be counted a miraculous working , then to be imputed to the strength of nature . CHAP. III. Of AIRE . 1. How it is to be chosen . 1. AS Hippocrates said of Meats , Like Food , like flesh : so may I justly say of the aire , like aire , like spirits ; for hence cometh it that in pure , clear , and temperate aire , our spirits are as jocund , pleasant , active , and ready as butterflies in Summer ; but in thick , dark , cloudy , and unseasonable weather , they are dul , drowsie , idle , and as heavy as lead , working neither perfectly what they ought , nor chearfully what they would . Witty Cardan supposeth a like resemblance to be betwixt our bodies , and the aire , as there is betwixt the soul and heaven : So that as they encline the soul , so the aire altereth the body every way ; let the aire be cloudy , how can the body be warm ? Let it be hot , how can that be cold ? let it be chilled with frost or snow , our skin ( yea our inwards themselves ) begin to shiver ? How staggers the head , and how presently finks the heart , at the smel of a damp , or the insensible sense of deadly and subtile spirits , carried from the ugh-trees of Thasus , or the hole of a Cokatrice , or the breathing of Aspes , or the dens of Dragons , or the carcases of dead Serpents , wherewith the aire is not so soon infected , as the hearts and brains of men , whereunto it is carried . Galen saith , That the inhabitants of the Palestine lake are ever sickly , their cattle unsound , and their Countrey barren , through the brimstone and pitchy vapor ascending from thence over all the Countrey , in such sort that birds flying over it , or beasts drinking of it , do suddenly die ; And verily no bird hateth that Lake , nor the Lakes of Avernum , Lucrine , or Padua , like unto it ; no frogs and serpents can less live in Ireland , foxes in Crete , staggs in Africa , hares in Ithaca , and fishes in warm water , then the heart of man can abide impure smels , or live long in health with infected airs ; which if they do not alwaies corrupt men , yet they shew their force , and exercise their power over cattle , hearbs , grass , corn , fruits , and waters , a great while after ▪ poysoning us ( as it were ) at a second draught , whilst we feed of infected things , and ( as Eclipses are wont to do ) spitting out their venom when they are almost forgotten . Sicil is recorded to be seldom void of the Plague : and the dwellers of Sardinia quitted their Country oftentimes for the same cause . But how could it be otherwise , when the wind blows there most commonly out of Africa , the mother of all venomous and filthy beasts ? Is not Middleborough , Roterdam , Delf , and divers other Cities in Zealand and Holland , stinched every dry Autumn with infinite swarms of dead frogs , putrifying the aire worse then carrion ? Rome also was greatly annoyed with agues and pestilence , till by Asclepiades his councel their common sewers were monthly cleansed , their privy-vaults yearly emptied , and their soil and offal daily carried forth into the fields ; whereby receiving the benefit of sweet aire and health both at once , no marvel ( as Mr. Ajax his Father hath well noted ) though the Skavenger and Gun-farmer , that is , Stercutius and Cloacina were honoured as Gods. And verily had that worthy Author lived amongst those Romans , as he liveth in this unthankful and wicked age , wherein ( to speak with Hippocrates ) admirantur fatui , calumniantur plerique , intelligunt pauci : ) no doubt ere this he had been very highly exalted , and stood in some solemn Capitol , betwixt Stercutius and Cloacina , as King Ludd doth upon Ludd-Gate betwixt his two sons : For I assure you ( and let us not but give the Devil his right ) he hath truely , plainly , and perfectly set down such an art of Privy-making , that if we would put it in practice , many a house should be thought in London to have never a Privy , which now smels all over of nothing else : Neither is the aire only infected with venemous winds and vapours , sinks , sewers , kennels , charnel houses , moors , or common lestals ( as in great Camps and Cities ) nor only with privy vaults ; but also Biesius maketh mention , that a house in Spain seated among many elder trees ( wherewithall the grounds were headged ) cast every man out of it ( like Sejus horse ) either dead or diseased , till such time as he caused them to be rooted up , and so made it both wholsome and habitable to the dwellers . Furthermore it is recorded , That as the aire in Cyprus cureth any ulcers of the lungs , so the air of Sardinia makes and enlargeth them : And as the aire of Anticyra helpeth madness , so contrariwise the aire of Thasus ( especially in a hot and dry summer ) brought almost all the inhabitants into a lunacy , which no doubt hapned upon these causes , That Cyprus aboundeth in Cypres and Firr-trees , Sardinia in Alom and Copper Mines , Anticyra is replenished with true Hellebors , and Thasus is full of deadly Ughes , which either kill a man , or make him mad , when the savor infects him fully , as it doth in such hot and dry Countries . The aire may be also infected with the smoak of Charcole newly kindled , whereof Quintus Catulus died : or with the smel of new morter , which killed Jovinianus the Emperor in his bed : or with the snuf of a candle , wherewith many have been strangled ; or with the aire of a pan of coles throughly kindled , by which as Aemylius Victor studied in the City of Parma , he suddenly fell down dead . By the smell of a snuf of a candle , many become leprous , and women miscarry of children . What light is best to study by , of oyle , wax , dears suet , and tallows ; the very smel of roses cureth headach , and of some flowres drunkenness . The smel of a wantlowse may kil a child in the mothers womb : the very smel of Physick cureth many . First therefore in the election or choice of aire , observe this , that it be pure and void of infection : for pure aire is to the heart , as balm to the sinews , yea it is both meat , drink , exercise , and Physick to the whole body . Meat , whilst it is easily converted into spirits : Drink , whilst it allayeth the thirst of the lungs and heart , which no drink can so well quench ; exercise , whilst it moveth humors immoveable otherwise of their own nature ; medicine or Physick , whilst it helpeth to thrust forth excrements , which would else harden or putrifie within our bodies , the vapors whereof would so shake the bulwark of life , and defile the rivers of blood issuing from the liver , that we should not live long in health , if happily we lived at all . Next to purity of aire , we must chuse that also which is temperate . For natural heat is not preserved , saith Galen , but of aire moderately cold : And Aristotle saith , That Countries and Cities , and houses , which by interposition of hils on the North side be seldom cooled , are subject to mortality , and many diseases . Yet must it not be so hot as to dissolve spirits , procure thirst , and abundant sweat , to the hindring of urine , and decaying of strength and appetite : But ( as I said before ) of a middle temper , because as nature is the mother , so mediocrity is the preserver of every thing . Who sees not a dry Summer peeleth , and a dry winter riveleth the skin ? and that contrariwise , an over-moist aire puffeth it up with humors , and engendreth rheumes in the whole body ? Thirdly , That aire is best which is most seasonable : Namely , warm and moist in the Spring , hot and dry in Summer , cooling and dry in Autumn , cold and moist in Winter : which seasons falling out contrarily , as sometimes they doe ( especially in Islands ) infinite and unavoidable diseases ensue thereupon . For if the spring-aire be cold and dry through abundance of Northeast winds , dry inflammations of the eys , hot urines , fluxes of bloud by nose and bowels , and most dangerous catarrhs to old persons , follow upon it . If Summer be cold and dry through the like winds , look for all kinds of agues , headaches , coughs , and consumptions : Contrariwise if it be too hot and dry , suppression of urine , and womens courses , together with exceeding bleeding at the nose is to be feared . If Autumn be full of Southern and warm blasts , the next Winter attend all rheumatick and moist diseases . If Winter on the contrary be cold and dry , which naturally should be cold and moist , long agues , humoral aches , coughs and plurisies are to be expected , unless the next Spring be of a moist disposition . Again , consider also , how any house or City is situated , for the aire is qualified accordingly . Namely , if they be placed Southeast , South , and Southwest , and be hindred from all Northern blasts by opposition of hils , they have neither sweet water , nor wholsome aire ; but there women are subject to fluxes and miscarriages , children to convulsions and shortness of breath , men to bloudy fluxes , scourings , and Hemorrhoids , and such like . But Cities , Countries , or houses situated clean contrary , towards the North-west , North , and North-East , and defended from all Southern gusts and blasts , albeit the people there are commonly more strong and dry , yet are they subject through suppression of excrements , unto headaches , sharp plurisies , coughs , exulceration of the lungs , phlegmatick collections , rupture of inward veins , and red eyes . Likewise in those Countries , young boyes are subject to swelling of the codds , young girls to the navel-rupture ; men to the diseases above named : Women to want and scarcity of their natural terms , to hard labours , ruptures and convulsions , and to consumptions after childbearth ▪ Easterly Towns ( especially inclining to the south ) and houses are more wholesome then the westerly for many causes : first because the aire is there more temperately hot and cold . Secondly because all waters and springs running that way , are most clear fragrant pleasant and wholesome , resembling as it were a dainty spring ; and verily women there conceive quickly and bring forth easily : children prove large , well coloured and lively : men healthful strong and able to any exercise , But Western cities and houses , barren , clean , of Eastern gusts , have ever both troubled waters and unwholesome winds , which mingled with the waters obscure their clearness , and maketh the inhabitants weak , heavy , and ill coloured , hoarce-voiced , dull witted , and wanting ( as if they were entring the house of death ) quickness and vigour . But Avicen of all others declares this most at large , who shewing the boldness and goodness of aire by the situation , describes them in these words . Houses having their chief or full seat Eastward , are very wholsome for three causes . First , because the Sun rising upon them , purgeth the aire very timely , Secondly , because it stayes not there long to dissolve spirits , but turneth westward after noon , Thirdly , because cold winds are commonly as ushers to the Sun rising , by which all corruption is killed , that either was in the aire or lay on the ground . Westerne places are worst situated : First , because the Sun bestowes not his maiden head and kingly heat upon them , but a hot and scorching flame , neither attenuating nor drying their aire , but filling it full of fogs and mists Whereupon it falls out , that the inhabitants are much troubled with hoarseness , rheumes , measils , pocks , and pestilence . Southern seats are commonly subject to catarhs , fluxes of the belly , heaviness , want of appetite , haemoroids , inflamation of eyes ; and their women conceive hardly and miscarry easily , abounding in menstrual and mighty pollutions , their old men are subject to palsies , trembling apoplexies and all humoral diseases , their children to cramps and the falling evil : their young men to continual putrified agues , and all kind of rebellious fevours . In Nothren countryes through the driness , coldness , and sharpness of the wind ; women do hardly conceive , and dangerously bring forth : or if they be well delivered , yet commonly through want of milk they are not able to nurse their children . Their young men die of consumptions , their old men and children of cruel cramps . They which dwell upon the tops of hills ( where every wind blows from under the Sun ) are for the most part sound , strong , nimble , long-lived and fit for labour . Contrariwise the valley people ( so seated that no wind blows upon them ) are ever heavy spirited , dull and sickly : for as a fire of green wood dieth unles the flame be scattered with continual blowing ; and as a standing water corrupteth in a little space : so an idle aire rouled about with no winds soon putrifieth ; because his dissimilar parts be not separated by winowing , as the chaffe is from the wheat . But the best situation of a house or city , is upon the slaunt of a southwest hill ( like to this of Ludlow , wherein we sojourne for a time ) neither fully barred of the East , North , and Southern winds , clear , and free from the mists of bogs and fens , purified from the stinck of common Sinks , Vaults and Lestals , as also from the unwholesome breathings of Caves , Colepits , & Copper , or Brimstone-mines : not so cold as to stupifie members , not so hot as to burn the skin , not so moist as to swell us with rheumes , nor so dry as to parch up our natural moisture : not to much nor to variable ( as upon the top of hills ) not so little , nor too standing , as in low Vallies : neither smelling of nothing , as in barren Countries , nor smelling of bad things , as in the Fens : but fragrant without a discerning of smell , and sweetest of all in an unknown sweetness For howsoever some men dream , that the smell of the spice-trees in Arabia felix make the neighbour inhabitants both healthfull of body and sound of mind ( which I will not deny , if you compare them with the borderers of the Palestine lake . ) Nevertheless as Tully saith of women , They smell best which smell of nothing ; so verily the aire that smells of nothing is best to nourish us in health , though otherwise in some sickness a perfumed aire is best , and also to expel a loathsome stinck , or ( like to the neighing of Apolloes horses ) to rouse up dull and sleepy senses . In which respect I am of Aristotles opinion , that sweet smels were appointed to be in flowers , fruits , barks , roots , fields , and meddowes , not onely for delight , but also for medicin . Nevertheless as the tastles water makes the best broath , so the smelling aire gives the purest ( I will not say the strongest ) nourishment to our spirits . In Plutarchs time men were grown to this wantoness , that every morning and night they perfumed not only their apparrel and gloves , but also their bodies with sweet ointments , made of most costly spices : buying with great charges , what shall I say ? an idle , a needless , a womanly pleasure ? nay verily an unnatural and more then bruitish . For every beast loveth his own mate only for her own smel ( whatsoever it be ) but some men love not their meat , nor drink , nor the aire , nor their wifes , nor themselves , unless they smel , or rather stinck of sweet costly and forreine fumes : which being taken without cause , do the head more hurt then being taken upon cause they do it good . Wherefore if thy brain be temperate , and not too moist , cold , or dull , eschew a strong smelling aire ( such as comes from walflowers , stock-gillyflowers , pincks , roses , Hiacynths , mead sweet , hony suckles , jasimin , Narcissus , musk , amber civet , and such like ) contenting thy self with the simplest aire , which for sound complexions is simply best . Or if for recreation and pleasuresake thou desirest it some time , let it not be of a full or strong sent : but mingled with sweet and soure ( as violets with Time ) and breathing rather a sharpe then a fulsome sweetness . And thus much of the choice of aires ; now come we to the preparation and use of them . CHAP. IIII. OF AIRE . 1. How it is to be prepared . 2. How it is to be used . SAtyrus ( that Goat-bearded God ) the first time that ever he saw fire , would needs kiss it and embrace it in his armes , notwithstanding that Prometheus forewarn'd him of coming too nigh : for he knew well enough the nature of fire to be such , that as in certain distances , times , and quantities it may be well endured , so in others it is harmful and exceeding dangerous . The like may I say of heat , cold , moisture , and driness of the aire : which in the first or second step towards them may and do preserve life , but the nearer you come to their extremities , the nearer are you to death : So that either you will be burnt with Satyrus , or frozen to death with Philostratus , or dryed up for lack of moisture with Darius Souldiers when they could get no water , or dye as the inhabitants of the lakes in Egypt do with too much moisture . Wherefore let every one consider his owne strength and constitution of body ; for some like to new wax , are dissolved with the least heat , and frozen with the least cold : others with Salamanders think nothing hot enough , others like to silk worms can abide no cold ; others with Smiths and Woodcocks can abide those frosts which even the fishes themselves can hardly tolerate . So likewise dry constitutions laugh and sing with the Thrush when rain approacheth : when others of the contrary complexion do mourn and lament with the Plouver , because it is so wet . Which being so , I shall no doubt deserve well of every man in teaching him so to prepare the aire , that sometimes abroad , but alwayes at home it may be tempered ( according as he most needeth ) and purified from all infection . Concerning the tempering of aire in our houses : is it too hot and dry ? then coul it by sprinkling of Vinegar and Rose water , by strewing the floure with green flags , rushes , newly gathered , reed leaves , water-lilly leaves , violet leaves and such like ; stick also fresh boughes of willow , sallow , poplar , and ashe ( for they are the best of all ) in every corner . Is it too cold and moist ? amend it by fires of clear and dry wood ; and strew the room and windows with herbs of a strong smell , as mints , penniroial cammomil , balm , nep , rue , rosemary and sage . Is it too thick and misty ? then attenuate and clear it in your chamber first by burning of pine-rosin ( as the Egyptians were wont to do ) then presently by burning in a hot fire-shovel some strong white-wine vinegar . But their chiefest perfume of all other called Kuphi : The great temper , was made of sixteen simples : namely , wine , hony , raisins of the sun , cipres , pine-rosin , mirrhe , the sweet rush , calamus aromaticus , spike-nard , cinamon , berries of the great and little juniper , lignumaloes , saffron , figtree buds , and cardamoms : to which composition in Galens time Democrates added Bdellium and the seed of agnus castus , and the Physicians in Plutarchs time the roots of Calamint . It were needless to write how wonderfully Apollo , I mean our new Apollo Francis Alexander of Vercelles ( for so like a proud Italian he calleth his owne work ) commend the same in his third beam ; or how Plutarch and Avicen extol it above all others , in that it not onely bringeth any aire to a good temper ; but also cleanseth the same of unclean spirits , openeth it when it is clowdy , attenuateth it when it is too thick , refineth it when it is full of dreggy mixtures , and consequently dispelleth melancholy from the head , fear and ill vapours from the heart , procuring natural and quiet sleep , and therefore not unworthily consecrated to the Gods. Now as the Egyptians burnt rosin in the morning , and their Kuphi towards noon , so albeit the sun set , when many heavy vapours lye in the aire , the Ancients were not to burn mirrhe and juniper : which disperse those heavy vapours , leaving in the house a rectified aire , quickning the senses , and correcting those melancholick fumes that pervert judgement . Wherefore the Egyptians call mirrhe , Bal , and Juniper Dolech the purifiers of the aire , and curers of madness . Whereat let no man wonder , sith the very noise of bells , guns , and Trumpets , breaketh the clouds , and cleanseth the aire : yea Musick it self , cureth the brain of madness , and the heart of melancholy , as many learned and credible Authors have affirmed . Much more then may it be tempered , and altered to the good or hurt of our inward parts by smells and perfumes , whereby not onely a meer aire ( as in Sounds ) is carried to the inward parts , but also invisible seeds and substances qualified with variety of divers things . For who knoweth not that the smell of Opium bringeth on sleep , drowsiness , and sinking of the spirits ? contrariwise the the smell of Wine , and strong vinegar out of a narrow mouth'd glass , awaketh the heaviest headied man , if possibly he can be awaked . Furthermore because stincking smells ( unless one by little and little be accustomed to them , as our dungfarmers , and kennel rakers are in London ; and as a wench did eat Napellus , a most cruel poyson , ordinarily as a meat ) are both noysom to the head , and hurtful to the lungs , heart , and stomack ; in such sort , that they which live in a stinking house , are seldom healthy : It shall be good , where the cause cannot wholly be removed , to correct the accident in this sort , with sweet waters , sweet perfumes , sweet pomanders , and smelling unto sweet fragrant things . Isabella Cortesa , that dainty Lady of Italy , comb'd her hair , and sprinkled her gown every morning with this sweet water following , whereby the aire circumfluent was so perfumed , that wheresoever she stood , no stinch could be discerned . Take of Orenge flower water , water of Violets , water of the musk-geranium , and the musk rose , water of red and damask roses , of each a pint ; powder of excellent sweet orris , two ownces ; powder of Storax Calamite , Benjoine , and Indian wood of roses , of each half an ounce ; Civet a dram and a half . Mingle all together , and let them stand in Balneo three daies . Then after the water is throughly cold , filtre it out with a fine filtre , and keep it to your use in a glass very close stopt . Marinellus maketh another not much inferior unto this , whereof this is the description . Take a pottle of damask-rose-water , Benjoin , Storax calamite , cloves , and wood of Aloes , of each a● ounce ; ambre-grice and civet of each a scruple : boil them together in Balneo in a glass very well stopt , for 24 hours space ; filtre it out when it is cold , and having hang'd fifteen grains of musk in it tied in a close cloth , set it five daies in the sun , and keep it to your use . These waters are costly , but verily exceeding good ; nevertheless sith men of mean fortune are likewise to be preserved , I appoint for them these perfumed cakes , and for the poorer sort , a less costly perfume . Take of Benjoin six drams , wood of aloes four drams , storax calamite four drams , sweet orris two drams , musk a scruple , white sugar candy three ounces , beat them into fine powder , and with red-rose water , work them into a stiff paste , whereon make a sort of little cakes no bigger nor thicker then a threepence ; dry them in a cold shadowy place , and then put them up very close into a glass , and take out one or two , or as many as you please , and burn them upon quick coles . The poorer sort may make them fire-cloves , far better then you shall find any at the Apothecaries , after this Receit . Take of good Olbanum halfe a pound , Storax Calamite an ounce and a halfe , Ladanum halfe an ounce , coles of Iuniper wood 2 drams , make all into fine powder , and then with 2 drams of gum Tragacanth mingled with rose water , and macerated three daies together , and an ounce of Storax liquida , form the paste like great cloves , or sugar-loves , or birds , or in what form you list , and dry them in an oven when the bread hath been drawn ; kindle one of these at the top , and set it in any room , and it will make it exceeding sweet . But forasmuch as no aire is so dangerous as that which is infected with pestilent influences , let us consider how , and in what sort that of all other is to be corrected . Hippocrates ( for ought we read of ) when his own Countrey , and the City of Athens were grievously surprised of the Plague , used no other remedies to cure or preserve the rest , then by making of great fires in each street , and in every house , especially in the night time , to purifie the aire ; whereby the Citizens or Athens being delivered from so dangerous an enemy , erected to Hippocrates an Image of beaten Gold , and honoured him alive as if he had been a God. And verily , as running water , like a broome , cleanseth the earth , so fire like a Lion , eateth up the pollutions of the aire , no less then it consumeth the drossie mettals . So that cleanliness and good fires ▪ cannot but either extinguish or lessen any infection : whereunto if we also add the use of other outward correctors and perfumers of the aire , no doubt it will be much , if not wholly amended . The Pestilence ( as I have noted to my grief in mine own house ) taketh some first with a great chilness and shaking , others with a hot sweat and often fainting : In some place it raineth most in Winter , others it never annoyeth but in Summer . The first sort are to correct the air about them with good fires , and burning of Lignum Aloes , Ebony , Cinamon bark , Sassaphras , and Juniper , which ( as Matthiolus recordeth in his Herbal ) retaineth his sent and substance a hundred years . Burn also the pils of Oringes , Citrons , and Lemons , and Myrrh and Rosen ; and the poorer sort may perfume their chambers with Baies , Rosemary , and Broom it self . Make also a vaporous perfume in this sort ; Take of Mastick and Frankincense , of each an ounce , Citron pils , Calamint roots , Herb-grass dried , and Cloves , of each three drams ; make all into a gross powder , and boil it gently in a perfuming pot with spike-water and white wine . The second sort ( I mean such as are sick of the Plague in Summer , or are the first taken with a dissolving heat ) should rather burn sweet Cipres , Lignum Rhodium , Sanders , sprigs of Tamarisk , Gum tragacanth , Elemi , Cherri-tree gum , and a little Camphire . Likewise their vaporing perfumes should be of red-rose-leaves , Lignum Rhodium , and Sanders , with rose-water and Vinegar boil'd together . So that according to the kind of taking , and the season of the year , is the air to be corrected in the time of pestilence , and not alike at all times with one perfume , which Marsilius Ficinus so diligently observeth , that he blameth many Physicians for their general preferring of this or that masticatory : some extolling the chewing of sage as one goes abroad , others the chewing of Setwall roots , others of Elecampana , Cloves , Angelica , or Citron pils ; which indeed are best in a cold season ; but in the hot time of the year and a hot Plague , the chewing of Coriander seeds prepared , grains , Sanders , and the pulpe of Oringes , Lemons , Citrons , or Pearmains , is far to be preferred before them . The like may be said of sweet Pomanders strong of musk , civet , ambre , and storax ; which are no doubt good correctors of the pestilent aire ; but yet in hot seasons and pestilences , nothing so good as the smel of a Lemon stickt with lignum Rhodium instead of cloves , and inwardly stuffed with a sponge throughly soaked in vinegar of red-roses and violets . But here a great question ariseth , whether sweet smels correct the pestilent aire , or rather be as a guide to bring it the sooner into our hearts ? To determin which question , I call all the dwellers in Bucklers berry in London to give their sentence : which only street ( by reason that it is wholly replenished with Physick , Drugs , and Spicery , and was daily perfumed in the time of the plague with pounding of Spices , melting of gums , and making perfumes for others ) escaped that great plague brought from Newhaven , whereof there died so many , that scarce any house was left unvisited . Of variety and change of Aire . Hitherto of the correcting and tempering of distempered and infected aire ; which being clean and purified , may yet through ignorance of wilfulness be abused : For as Satyrus would needs kiss the glowing cole , and children delight to put their fingers in the candle , so some know not how to use this general nourishment , which is not given ( as all other nourisments be ) unto one particular man or Country , but equally and universally unto all . Now there be two sorts of aire , as every man knoweth ; the one open and wide unto all men , the other private , shut within the compass of a house or chamber : that permitted to any man which is in health ; this proper to very many and sickly persons , who receiving but the least blast of the outward aire upon a suddain , fall into great extremities , and make the recidival sickness to be worse then the former . Many , and amongst them , my Lord Rich his brother , can justifie this , who almost recovered of the small pox , looked but out of a casement , and presently was striken with death . So likewise one Harwood of Suffolk , a rich Clothier , coming suddenly in an extream frost from a very hot fire into the cold aire , his blood was presently so corrupted , that he became a leaper ; which is an ordinary cause of the same disease in high Germany , as Paracelsus and many other writers have truely noted . Again , some men tie themselves so to one aire , that if they go but a mile from home ( like to fresh-water soldiers ) they are presently sick : others are so delighted with variety , that no one aire or Country can contain them : of which humor was Agesilaus , Phocion , Diogenes , Cato , yea and Socrates himself , who sometimes lay abroad in the fields , sometimes at home , sometimes travailed one Country , and sometimes another , that being accustomed to all airs , they might ( if necessity served ) the better abide all . Furthermore in long diseases , it is not the worst , but the best physick to change airs ; which few can endure that are tied in conceit or by custom only to one , and therefore that ( of both fantastical humors ) is the most dangerous . Besides this , the time of going abroad in the open aire is to be considered ; for some go out early before the dew be off , and the sun up , which is very unwholsom ; others also walk at night after the dew falling , which is as perilous : for the dew to mans body is as rust unto iron , in so much that it blasteth the face and maketh it scabby ( especially in some months ) if a man do wash himself with it . Furthermore some men delight to travel in tempests and winds , which the very hedghog reproveth , and the beasts of the field eschue by seeking coverture : for strong and violent winds , be ( as Cardan cals them ) the whales of the aire , rowling clouds and meteors where and whether they list , beating down trees , houses , and castles , yea shaking otherwhiles the earths foundation . Now as some goe abroad too much , so others with over-fearfulness take the open aire too little , sitting at home like cramb'd Capons in a close room , and not daring in a manner to behold the light ; better it were by degrees to go abroad , then with such certainty of danger to stay at home ; yet so that a calm , mild , and temperate day be chosen , lest we make more haste outward then good speed , and bewail the alteration of aire through decrease of health . For as contrariety of meats make tumults and rebellions in our stomacks , so contrary changes of aire upon the sudden , maketh dangerous combats in our bodies : Yea though a fenny aire be thick and loathsome , yet suddenly to go dwel upon the high mountains in a clear aire , is a posting to death rather then a course to life , and albeit a Southern Country be pregnant of corruption ( for all trees lose their leaves first on the Southside , and on the Southside houses decay soonest , and the Southside of corn is soonest blasted , and malt lying in the Southside of a Garner , is first tainted with weevels ) yet suddenly to depart to a Northern soil , where the North wind chiefly bloweth , is to leave the Sea to be forzen in ice , and bringeth imminent peril , if not hasty death to the patient , yea to them that are otherwise sound of body : wherefore use the open aire in his due time , season , quantity , and order ; else shalt thou be offended with that nourishment , which simply of all other is most necessary : for as this invisible milk ( for so Severinus cals the aire ) in time , season , and quantity , nourisheth these lower , and perhaps the upper bodies : so being taken out of time , and longer , and lesser then we should , it is both the child , the mother , and the nurse of infinite mischiefs . CHAP. V. 1. Of Meat , and the differences thereof , in Kind , Substance , Temperature , and Taste . PUrposing now to treat of Meats , I will keep this method . First I will shew their differences : then the particular natures of every one of them : Last of all in what variety , quantity , and order they are to be eaten . Their differences be especially seaven in number ; Kind , Substance , Temperature , Taste , Preparation , Age and Sex. 1. Concerning the first , It is either of vegitable things only by ordination , or of sensible creatures by permission . For whilst Adam and his wife were in Paradise , he had commission to eat only of the fruit of the Garden ; being cast thence , he was enjoyned to till the ground , and fed in the sweat of his brows upon worts , corn , pulse and roots ; but as for flesh , howbeit many beasts were slain for sacrifices and apparrel , yet none was eaten of men 2240. years after the creation ; even till God himself permitted Noah and his family to feed of every sensible thing that moved and lived , as well as of fruits and green hearbs . Nay the Indian Philosophers , called Brachmanes , did never a great while after the floud taste of any sensible creature : and though Nimrod the great hunter slew many beasts , yet flesh was even then untasted of the Babilonians ( and many hundred years after ) saith Herodotus . And verily till God would have it so , who dared to touch with his lips the remnant of a dead carcass ? or to set the pray of a wolfe , and the meat of a falcon upon his table ? who I say durst feed upon those members which lately did see , go , bleat , lowe , feel , and move ? Nay tell me , can civil and humane eyes yet abide the slaughter of an innocent beast , the cutting of his throat , the mauling him on the head , the flaying of his skin , the quartring and dismembring of his joints , the sprinkling of blood , the ripping up of his veins , the enduring of ill savours , the hearing of heavy sighs , sobs , and grones , the passionate strugling and panting for life , which only hard-hearted Butchers can endure to see ? Is not the earth sufficient to give us meat , but that we must also rend up the bowels of beasts , birds , and fishes ? yes truly there is enough in the earth to give us meat , yea verily and choise of meats , needing either none or no great preparation , which we may take without fear , and cut down without trembling , which also we may mingle a hundred waies to delight our taste , and feed on safely to fill our bellies . Nevertheless we must not imagine , that God either idely or rashly permitted flesh and fish to be eaten of mankind , but that either he did it for causes known to himself , or for special favours shewed to us . Plutarch writeth that hens eggs in Egypt do hatch themselves in the warm sun , and that wilde connies breed every month : so that albeit by their rites of religion the Egyptians were forbidden to eat eggs , or to kill for meat any living creature , yet necessity caused them to eat both , lest their corn should be devoured both in seed and blade , or they forced to do nothing else but to bury young rabbets and to squash eggs ; perhaps upon foresight of the like inconvenience , God appointed men to eat flesh and fish : least happily overflowing the earth by dayly increase , there would scarce be any food left for man , and man should not be able to rule his subjects . But the chiefest thing which he aimed at in the permission , was ( in my judgement ) the health and preservation of our lives : for as before the floud men were of stronger constitution , and vegitable fruits grew void of superfluous moisture : so by the floud these were endued with weaker nourishment , and men made more subject to violent diseases and infirmities . Whereupon it was requisite or rather necessary , such meat to be appointed for humane nourishment , as was in substance and essence most like our own , and might with lest loss and labour of natural heat be converted and transubstantiated into our flesh . And truely whosoever shall with the Adamites refuse that Diet , which God and nature hath appointed ; either because they think they should not , or because they would not feed upon living creatures : I dare boldly avouch they are religious without knowledge , and timerous without occasion ; yea ( unless naturally they abhor fish and flesh , as some men may ) they shorten their owne lives and do violence to nature . How meats differ in substances . 2. Touching the difference of meats in substance : some are of thin and light substance , engendring pure thin and fine blood , fit for fine complexions , idle citizens , tender persons , and such as are upon recovery out of some great sickness : as chiken peepers , rabbet suckers , young pheasants , partridge , heath-poulse , godwits , all small birds being young , all little fishes of the river , the wings and livers of hens , cockchickens and patridges , eggs warm out of the hens belly , &c. Others are more gross , tough , and hard , agreeing chiefly to country persons and hard labourers : but secondarily to all that be strong of nature , given by trade or use to much exercise , and accustomed to feed upon them : as poudred beife , bacon , goose , swan , salt-fish , ling , tunnis , salt samon , cucumbers , turneps , beans , hard peaze , hard cheese , brown and rye bread , &c. But meats of a middle substance are generally the best , & most properly to be called meats ; engendring neither too fine nor too gross blood , agreeing in a manner with all ages , times , and complexions , neither binding nor loosning the body , neither strengthening nor weakning the stomack , neither procuring nor hindring urine or sweat , causing no alteration in coldness , heat , dryness , or moisture ; finally neither adding to the body by overnourishing , nor detracting from it by extenuating , but preserving it in such estate as they found it , restoring dayly as much as dayly decayed , and nothing or very little more . Of which sort may be reckoned young beife , mutton , veal , kid , lamb , pig , hen , capon , turkye , house-doves , conny , sodden lettice , skirrets , almonds , raysins , &c. How meats differ in temperature and distemperature . 3. As there is a certain temperature and distemperature of our bodies , so likewise is there in meats ; that temperate bodies should feed of their likes , and distempered of their contraries . Wherefore God hath appointed some meats hot onely in the first degree , &c. Hot Meats . Lamb , pork , pig , gosling , partridge , quail , thrush , sturgian , mullet , base , oisters , cockles : cream , butter , figs , suger , raisins , sweet apples , ripe pomegranates , new hasselnuts , new almonds , asparagus , borrage , bur-rootes , skirrit-roots , white thistle roots , hop buds , parseneps , wheat and rice . Others hot in the second degree , as Hare , roe-buck , turky , peacok , pigeon , duck , turtle , pickled oisters , anchoves , honny , ripe mulberies , new walnuts , pickled olives , preserved capars , pisticks , dates , chestnuts , artichokes , carots ▪ potadoes , persly , and radish roots , eryngo roots , nutmegs and saffron . Some hot in the third degree , as scallops , mints , taragon , onions , leeks , Alisanders , ●ld walnuts , cinamon , ginger , cloves , and pepper . Some are hot in the fourth degree , as skallions , garlick , and ramsies . Now whereas all meats hot further then the second degree , are reckoned by Physitians to be rather medicin then meat : I allow their judgement , for the most sort of men ; but not generally in all . For in Scythia & some parts of Persia , as also in Scotland & Wales , many mens bodies and stomachs are so full of cold and raw fleagme , that leeks , onyons , watercresses , and garlick is made a nourishment unto them , which would gripe , fret , & blister temperate stomacks . The like reason may be given , why Adders are commonly eaten of the people called Ophiophagi , and venemous spiders of many in Egypt . Yea , my self have known a young Maide , of an exceeding moist and cold complexion , whose meat for two years was chiefly pepper , wherewith another would have been consumed , though she was nourished : for it is hot in the third , and dry in the fourth degree . Cold Meats . Of cold Meats , God hath likewise appointed some of the first degree , as Cow-flesh , steer-flesh , conny , rabbet , young hedghogs ; Eeles , lumps , olafes , fresh tunny , fresh sprats , fresh herrings , curds , and all sorts of pompions , millions , cherries , strawberries , peaches , some apples , pears , quinces , medlars , cervices : spinache , succory , sorrel , gooseberries , cabbage , colewoorts , peaze and beans . Others cold in the second degree , as tench , pike , shrimps , crabs , crevisses , new cheese , prunes , damsins , apricots , and most sorts of plums , lettice , endiff , citrons , oringes , lemmons , gourds , and cucumbers . Whatsoever exceedeth this degree in coldness can never be turned into our nourishment , howsoever some one body by a proper Sympathy or long usage ( as Docter Randal did ) may digest and nourish himself with poppy medicins . Moist Meats . Meats moist in the first degree , are these and such like : Wild bore ; lamprey , barble , cramb , shrimps , crevisse , pine-apple-kernels , new filbirds , sweet allmonds , dates , asparagus , spinache , borrage , hop buds , carrots , turneps ▪ and french peaze . Meats moist in the second degree : Hedgebuck , turky , young pigeon , young ducks , young quailes ; fresh sturgeon , lump , olaffe , tunny , tench , eele , fresh oisters , ruen-cheese . Meats moist in the third degree are onely fresh pork , and young pigs . Dry Meats . Neither hath nature omitted to provide dry Meats for them , who by nature or sickness are overmoistned : whereof some are dry onely in the first degree , as peacock , heathcock , the dorry , and all fresh fish lightly poudred : strawberries , soure fruit , medlers , fennel , artichokes , colewoorts , raddish , saffron , and cheese curds throughly pressed . Others in the second in degree , as Oxe-beife , venison , hare , conny , partridge , turtle , thrush , black-birds ; mullets , crabs , perwinckles , cockles , honny , cinamon , nutmegs , ginger ; galanga , peares , quinces , soure-pomegranats , pickled olives , pisticks , chessnuts , succory , sorrel , persty , onyons , leeks , lemons , citrons , beans and rice . Others in the third degree , as flesh and fish long salted , stock fish , old cheese , poudred capers , cervisses , mints , garlick , ramsies , scallions , water-cresses , cloves and cinamon . Others in the fourth degree , as pepper , and all things by miscookery over-peppered . Temperate Meats . Temperate meats are such , as hardly can be discerned to be either hot , cold , dry , or moist , or if they can yet do , they never exceed , yea scarsly attain the first degree . Of which sort , a young pullet , a crowing cockrel , a grown capon , soles and perches , fine wheat , new laid eggs ( eate white and all ) being potcht , and all small birds being young , are to be accounted . How Meats differ in taste . 4. Being now come to the fourth difference of meats , which consisteth in Taste , it is necessary to shew how many kinds of tasts be found in nourishments ; whereof some be abominable to certain persons , though good and pleasant in nature ; Others contrarily desired and liked , though naturally not appointed for meat ; which if you call a sympathetical and antipathetical taste , or an in borne tasting or distasting , it will not be amiss : for though the words seem strange and hard at the first , yet time and wearing will make them easy and common . What is more unpleasant to most mens natures , then the taste of humane flesh ? yet not onely some women with child have longed for it , but also the whole nation of Canibals account it the sweetest meat of all others . It is also recorded that Neroes , great gourdman , thought no meat pleasant but raw flesh ▪ Fermius Saleucius loved the Sea horses so exceedingly , that he dayly dived for them amongst the Crocodiles of Nilus , ventring his life to save his longing . Plato thought that Olives had the best taste . Mecaenas coveted the fish of Asses foals , whereby the whole race of Asses had been extinguished , but that he died in a good hour . The Germans once ( and now the Tartars ) reckon horseflesh for the sweetest and best meats , even as our Welshmen esteem of Cheese , Lancashire men of egg pies , and Devonshire men of a brown whitepot . What need I write of Achilles , who in his nonage living with Chiron , desired most to feed upon Lions livers ? or of the Vandales , who long after Foxes ; or the Zygantes in Africa , that covet Monkies and Apes , no less then the Carmanians love Tortesses , the West Africans Lisards , the Egyptians Grasshoppers , the Candneans Serpents , the Corsicans and Maltanists young Whelps , the Romans and Phrygians timber-worms , the Allmans Mites and Magots of Cheese , and such filthy meats . Yea ( if Herodotus an Sabellicus write a truth ) the Budanes desire to feed on Lice , which a Muscovite abhors to kill ; least unnaturally or unwittingly he might slay his own flesh and blood . It were strange to believe ( yet Fernelius writes it for a truth ) how a noble man of France found a greater sweetnes in quick-lime , then in any meat beside , refreshing his stomack and hurting no inward part with the continual use thereof . Others feed greedily upon rags of woollen cloth and wall-morter : and Anatus Lusitanus remembreth a certain young maid of twelve years of age , who did eate usually stones , earth ▪ sand , chalke , wooll , cotten and flox ; esteeming their taste and substance better then of the finest and tendrest Partridge . Marcellus Donatus saw a girle so longing after Lisards and Neauts , that she would hunt after the one in gardens , and after the other in houses with a bough in her hand , as a Cat would hunt a mouse , and eat them without hurt ▪ Albertus Magnus ( as Caelius reporteth ) saw another wench in Collen but three years old , hunting as diligently after all sorts of spiders , with which meat she was not only much delighted , but also exceedingly nourished . Yea Doctor Oethaeus telleth a story of a certain Farmer in the County of Hirsberg , that feedeth chiefly upon potsheards finely beaten , batling no less with them then Marriners do with eating bisket . And Joachimus Camerarius ( my dear and learned friend ) reporteth that a certain girl of Norimberg did eat up her own hair , and as much as elsewhere she could get ; neither conld she be perswaded by parents or friends , to think it an unpleasant or an unwholsom meat . Contrariwise Petrus Aponensis loathed milk : The Inhabitants of the new fishing Land abhor Oyle ; many men cannot abide the taste of Cheese , others of flesh , others of fish , others of all sorts of fruit , and that Bartimew Marnta his father was almost dead of hares flesh in a gallimawfery , it is not unknown to Physicians . Nay some are naturally ( or by imagination ) so perverted , that they cannot abide the sight of many meats , and muchless the last . What Souldier knoweth not that a roasted Pigg will affright Captain Swan more then the sight of twenty Spaniards ? What Lawyer hath not heard of Mr. Tanfiels conceit , who is feared as much with a dead Duck , as Philip of Spain was with a living Drake ? I will not tell what Physician abhorreth the sight of Lampres , and the taste of hot Venison , though he love cold ; nor remember a Gentleman who cannot abide the taste of a rab bet , since he was once ( by a train ) beguiled with a young cat . Nay ( which was more ) all meat was of an abominable taste to Heliogabulus , if it were not far fetcht and very dearly bought ; even as some liquorish mouthes cannot drink without sugar , nor Sinardus hot stomack could break wine without snow ; which dainty and foolish conceit , though it picks a quarrel with God and reason ( after the nice fineness of Courtly dames , that abhor the best meat which is brought in an earthen dish ) and maketh ulcers as it were in sound stomacks ; yet that there is a natural liking and disliking of meats , and consequently of the tastes of meats , both the examples of men and women forenamed do justly prove , and even Spaniels and Hounds themselves ( I mean of the truer kind ) by refusing of Venison and wild-fowl in the cold bloud , can sufficiently demonstrate . Meats of ordinary tastes . Now let us come to the ordinary tastes of meats , which are especially seven in number ; Sweet , Bitter , Sharp , Sowre , Fatty , Salt , and Flash . Sweet Meats . Sweet Meats agree well with nature , for they are of a temperate heat , and therefore fittest for nourishment ; they delight the stomack and liver , fatten the body , encrease natural heat , fill the veins , digest easily , soften that which is too hard , and thicken that which is too liquid ; but if they be over-sweet and gluttish , they soon turn into choler , stop the liver , puff up lungs and spleen , swell the stomack , and cause oftentimes most sharp and cruel fevers . Bitter Meats . If any thing be very bitter ( as asparagus , hop-sprouts , and broom-buds ) they cannot much nourish either man or beast , unless they have first been boiled or infused in many waters : for otherwise they may engender ( as they do ) some cholerick humors , burning bloud , killing worms , opening obstructions , and mundifying unclean passages of the body ; but their nourishment they give is either little or nothing , and that only derived to some special part . Sharp Meats . Sharp Meats ( as onions , skallions , leeks , garlick , radish , mustardseed , cresses , and hot spices ) dry the body exceedingly , being also hurtful to the eyes and liver , drawing down humors , sending up vapors , inflaming the bloud , fretting the guts , and extenuating the whole body : Wherefore we must either taste them as they are , or not feed upon them till their sharpness be delaid with washings , infusions , oilings , and intermixtions of sweet things . Soure Meats . Soure meats ( as sorrel , lemons , oringes , citrons , soure fruit , and all things strong of vinegar and verjuice ) albeit naturally they offend sinewy parts , weaken concoction , cool natural heat , make the body lean , and hasten old age ; yet they pleasure and profit us many waies , in cutting phlegm , opening obstructions , cleansing impurities , bridling choler , resisting putrifaction , extinguishing superfluous heat , staying loathsomness of stomack , and procuring appetite : But if they be soure without sharpness ( as a rosted quince , a warden , cervises , medlars , and such like ) then they furthermore strengthen the stomack , bind and corroborate the liver , stay fluxes , heal ulcers , and give an indifferent nourishment to them that eat them . Salt Meats . Saltishness is thought to be an unnatural taste , because it is found in no living thing . For the very fishes are fresh ; so likewise is all flesh , and every fruit , and all herbs which grow not where the sea may wash upon them . Wherefore howsoever salt hath the term of divinity in Homer , and Plato calleth it Jupiters minion , and the Athenians have built one Temple to Neptune and Ceres ( because even the finest cakes be unwholsom and unpleasant if they be not seasoned with salt ) yet I hold it to be true , that salt meats ( in that they are salt ) nourish little or nothing ; but rather accidentally in procuring appetite , strengthening the stomack , and giving it a touch of extraordinary heat , as I will more perfectly prove when I treat of sawces . For salt meats ( especially if they be hot of salt ) engender cholor , dry up natural moistures , enflame blood , stop the veins , gather together viscous and crude humors , harden the stone , make sharpness of urine , and cause leanness ; which I speak of the accidental salt wherewith we eat all meats , and not of that inborn salt which is in all things . Fat Meats . Fattiness is sensibly found not only in flesh and fish , of every sort , but also in olives , coco's , almonds , nuts , pisticks , and infinite fruits and herbs that give nourishment : Yea in serpents , snails , frogs , and timber-worms it is to be found ; as though nature had implanted it in every thing which is or may be eaten of mankind . And verily as too much fattiness of meats glutteth the stomack , decayeth appetite , causeth belchings , loathings , vomitings , and scourings , choaketh the pores , digesteth hardly , and nourisheth sparingly ; so if it be too lean and dry on the contrary side ( for a mean is best of all ) it is far worse , and nourisheth the body no more then a piece of unbuttered stockfish . Unsavory or unrelished Meats . Flashiness or insippidity ( which some call a maukish or senseless taste ) tasting just of nothing ( as in water , the white of an egg , mellons , pumpions , and pears , apples , berries , and plums of no relish ) is of no taste , but a deprivation or want of all other tastes besides ; which be it found in any thing that is dry ( as in spices ) or in things naturally moist ( as in fish , flesh , or fruit ) it alwaies argueth an ordinary weakness in nourishment , howsoever extraordinarily ( I will not say unnaturally ) it may strongly nourish some . Avicen saith truly in his Canons , Quod sapit , nutrit : That which relisheth , nourisheth : yet not so , but that unsavory things nourish likewise , though not abundantly nor speedily : for what is more unsavory then fresh water , wherewith many fishes are only nourished ? what so void of relish as the white of an egg ? yet is it to aguish persons more nourishing then the yeolk ; yea and stockfish will engender as good humors in a rheumatick person , as the best pigg or veal that can be brought him . CHAP. VI. Of MEATS . How they differ in preparation , age and sex . THe preparation of meats is threefold , One before the killing or dressing of them , another in the killing or dressing , and the third after both . Of which art Timochides Rhodius wrote eleven books in verse , and Numenius Heracletus ( Scholler to Dieuches that learned Physician ) and Pitaneus Parodus and Hegemon Thasius compiled also divers Treatises of that argument ; which either the teeth of time , or stomack of envy having consumed , I must write of this argument according to mine own knowledg and collections . Whether an iron Ladle hinders Peas and Rice from seething ? Whether roast meat be best , and best tasted , larded , barded , scorch'd or basted ? Beasts killed at one blow are tenderest and most wholsom . Why all broath is best hot , all drink best cold . Some fish , flesh , and fruits never good but cold ; some never good when they are cold ; and yet we have all but one instrument of tasting . Of fatting of Meats . Lean meat as it is unwholsom , so it seemed also unsavory in ancient times ; in so much that Q. Curtius being sewer at Caesars table , seeing a dish of lean birds to be set at the table , was not afraid to hurl them out at the window . Also the Priests of Israel , yea the Heathen Priests also of Rome and Egypt touched no lean flesh , because it is imperfect till it be fat , fitter to feed hawks and vultures , then either to be eaten of men , or consumed in sacrifice to holy uses . Hereupon came a trial how to fatten flesh and fish ( yea snails and tortesses , as Macrobius writeth ) by feeding them with filling and forced meats ; casting not only livers and garbage into fishponds , but also their slaves to feed their pikes ( as did Vidius Pollio ) and to make them more fat and sweet then ordinary . Hence also came it that swine were fatned with whey and figgs , and that Servilius Rullus devised how to make brawn , and that the Aegyptians invented the fatting of geese , because it was ever one di●h at their Kings table . Amongst the Romans it was a question , who first taught the art of fatning geese ; some imputing it to Scipio Metellus , others to Marcus Sestius ; but without contradiction , Marcus Aufidius Lucro taught first how to cram and fatten peacocks , gaining by it threescore thousand sesterties , which amounteth to 3000000 l. of our mony . Cranes and swans were fatted in Rome with ox-bloud , milk , oatmeal , barley , curds and chaulk mingled ( to use Plutarch's phrase ) into a monstrous meat , wherewithall they were cram'd in dark places ▪ or else their eyes were stitched up , by which means their flesh proved both tenderer , sweeter , whiter , and also ( as it is supposed ) far wholsomer . Hens , capons , and cockrels , and tinches were fatned by them of Delia , with bread steep'd in milk , and feeding in a dark and narrow place , that want of scope and light , might cause them to sleep and sit much , which of it self procureth fatness . In Varro's time men did not only fatten conies in clappers , but also hares , and made them ( of a melancholick ) a most white and pleasant meat , according to that of Martial , Inter aves princeps pinguis ( me judice ) turdus , Inter quadrupedes gloria prima lepus . Amongst the feathered knights , fat thrushes do excel , Amongst four-footed squires , the hare deserves the bel , But here a question may be moved , Whether this penning up of birds , and want of exercise , and depriving them of light , and cramming them so often with strange meat , makes not their flesh as unwholsom to us as wel as fat ? To which I answer , that to cramb Capons , or any bird , and to deprive them of all light , is ill for them and us too : for though their body be puffed up , yet their flesh is not natural and wholsom ; witness their small discoloured and rotten livers ; whereas Hens and Capons feeding themselves in an open and clean place with good corn , have large , ruddy and firm livers . So great is the diversitie betwixt a cramm'd , I may say a strangled , and captive Capon , and betwixt a gentleman Capon feeding himself fat without art . Wherefore the best fatning of all fowl , is first to feed them with good meat ( for like food , like flesh . ) Secondly , to give it them not continually as crammers do , forcing one gobbet after another till they be fully gorg'd , but as often as they themselves desire it , that nature be not urged above her strength ; not in a coope or close roome , for then the aire and themselves will smell of their own dung , but in a cleane house spacious enough for their little exercise ; not in a dark place , or stitching up their eyes , for that will cause them to be timerous , or ever sleepy ; both which are enemies to their bodies , and consequently to ours : for every man knows that fear marreth concoction , and sleepiness bereaving us of exercise , hindreth digestion . Yea young Pigeons whilst they are in the nest ( be they never so fat ) are reckoned but an unwholsom meat ; but when they follow and fly a little after the dam , then are they of great and good nourishment . The like may be said of the fatting of beasts , for they are not to be stied or stalled so close that they cannot stirr , but to have sufficient room for to walk in , as well as to feed in , that they may be wholsom as well as fat , and not corrupt our bodies with their own corruption . So likewise fish kept in great ponds where they may rove at pleasure , are better then such as be mewed in a narrow and shallow ditch ; which not only we shall find by inward digestion , but also by outward tasting ; yea look what difference there is betwixt tame and wild Conies , betwixt Deer fed by hand , and Deer fatning themselves in the Chase and Copses , the like shall you perceive betwixt forced fatness , and fatness gotten by natural and good diet . Another thing also is to be observed before the killing of any beast or bird ; namely , how to make it tenderer if it be too old , and how to make it of the best rellish : Patrocles affirmed , that a Lion being shewed to a strong Bull three or four hours before he be killed ; causeth his flesh to be as tender as the flesh of a Steer : fear dissolving his hardest parts and making his very heart to become pulpy . Perhaps upon the like reason we use to bait our Bulls before we kill them : for their blood is otherwise so hard , that none can digest it in the flesh , but afterwards it is so far from being poisonable , that it becometh tender and nourishing food . Perhaps also for this cause old Cocks are coursed with little wands from one another , or else forced to fight with their betters before they are killed . Perhaps also for these causes , so much filthy dung is brought from common lestals into great gardens ; namely to cause roots and herbs to be fatter and tenderer then they would be : which intent I do not disallow , onely I wish that no other soil were used , then what proceeded from the earth or from brute beasts . Concerning the manner of killing , it is divers in divers Countries . The Grecians strangled their Swine , and did eat them with their blood . The Romans thrust them through the body with a spit red hot , whereby death ensuing without cooling and voiding of blood , the flesh seemed far more sweet and tender . But if a sow were ready to farrow , they trampled upon her belly , bruising her pigs , and the kernells of her dugs with the milk and blood ot once , eating them for the most delicate meat , as some delight in the bruse or pudding of the Deer . Plutarch also avoucheth , that Sheep kill'd by Wolves , Birds by Hawkes , Geese by Foxes , Hares or Deer by Greyhounds , eate much sweeter , kindlier , and tenderer , then if they be killed suddainly by sleight or violence . Yea I have heard of a Lady in England , that let a score of Partridges be brought unto her , some killed by the Hawkes , others at the foot of Dogs , others by men , she will discern that which the Hawke killed at sowce from all the rest , having tasted but one morsel . Furthermore as there is a reason of cutting down wood for timber ( namely in the prime of the Moon , or about the last quarter ) and a special good season of moulding bread , and laying of leavens ( this before the full of the Moon , that in the full it self ) so there is likewise a season to kill Beasts Birds and fishes , and to eate the fruits of Gardens and Orchards . For experience teacheth that Hens are best in January , eggs in February , Lamb , Kid , Pigeons and Veal in March , herbs in April , Cockles in May , Bucks and Salmon in June , July , and August , Gurnards in September ; Oisters in all Months in whose name an R. is found , Pork , Bacon , and Cabbage in frosty weather , &c. Nay further it 's to be considered , whether a Deer be stricken stone dead at a blow , though he be in season , or suffered to dye languishing upon his hurt ; for his skin be it never so well drest , will soon shed his haire and wax worm-eaten if it languish , whereas as otherwise it will hardly corrupt at all in a long season : wherefore no other reason can be given , then that by the one way natural heat is inwardly restrained , and by the other way of killing outwardly expired . So likewise there are seasons for gathering of fruit , herbs , floures , seeds , and roots , which whosoever observed not carefully and diligently , he may seeth bones for flesh and ( to speake more properly ) stalks for lettice . For all things have their several times , and there is a season for each purpose under heaven . A time to plant , and a time to pluck up ; a time to kill , and a time to preserve . The last preparation is after the killing of sensible creatures , or the gathering of the which are onely vegetable : all which preparations are divided into five principal actions , garbelling , boiling , rosting , baking , and frying . Garbelling is a taking away of all things from any creatures , which are counted either hurtful or unnecessary : as the flaying of Beasts , pulling , and scaling of fouls , garbaging of all things that have corruption in their bellies , voiding of piths , cores , rinds , and stones in roots , apples , and plums , &c. For albeit the first cooks were so unskilful , that they roasted Oxen skin and all , yet reason after taught them to reject the outwards , as they had upon just cause emptied the inwards . The other four preparations are so necessary , as that all things in a manner are subject to them . What is raw flesh till it be prepared , but an imperfect lump ? for it is neither the beast it was , nor the meat it should be , till boiling , roasting , bakeing , or broiling , hath made it fit to be eaten of men . Diocles being asked whether were the best fish , a Pike or a Conger : that saith he , if it be sodden ; this if it be broild ; but none better then another if they were raw : onely Oisters of all fish are good raw ( yet he was no Coward that first ventered on them ) being called of Athenaeus the Prologue of feast , because ever ( as we use them ) they were eaten formost . Other fish being eaten raw , is harder of digestion then raw beife : for Diogenes died with eating of raw fish , and Wolmer ( our English Pandereus ) digesting iron glass and oister shells , by eating a raw Eele was overmastered . Nay the Icthyophagi themselves feeding only on fish , do first either roast them in the Sun , or prepare them with fire before they eat them ; having stomacks far hotter then ours , and consequently more proper to digest them . As for raw flesh ( besides Butchers , Cooks , Poulterers , Slaughter men , and Canibals ) who dare almost touch it with their fingers ? much less dare any grind it with their teeth , no not that Egyptian , who was Neroes gourman . Now as Galen saith of Chesnuts , that being roasted in embers , they are sweet and drying , being sodden in broth they are sweet and moistning ; being roasted with their husk they eate delicately , being roasted without their husk they eate ranck and sourish , being sodden without their huske they prove unsavoury : so may I say of all other meats whatsoever , that according to the kind of preparation , they either keep relinquish or alter their propriety . If hereupon you aske me what meats is best boild , and what roasted I answer that flashy meats & naturally moist should be drest with a dry heat ( as in baking , broiling , frying , and rosting ) and meats naturally exceeding in driness and firmness should ever be boyled . Temperate meats may be used any way , so they be not abused by miscookery , which even Diocles knew many years ago , saying ( as before I noted out of Athenaeus ) that a Pike is best when he is boild , and a conger when he is broild ; because that is a firm and solid fish , this of a moist soft and eely substance . But forasmuch as in my particular discourses of severall meats , I purpose to touch their best preparing , I will surcease to speak any more generally of the dressing of meats , either before they are bereaved of life , or in or after their death : onely this I conclude , that who seeth not a great difference betwixt meats kill'd in season , and out of season , betwixt raw meat and parboild , betwixt fri'd meats and bak't meats , spiced and unspiced , salt and fresh ; betwixt asparagus once washt and twice washt , betwixt cabbages once and twice sod , &c. is in my judgement deprived of his wits , or else over-wedded to his will. For who is ignorant that cabbages once sod loosen the belly , but twice sod ( I mean in several waters ) procure most dangerous and great costiveness ? who knoweth not ( as Galen affirmeth ) that Asparagus often washed is a good nourishment , but otherwise so bitter that it wholly purgeth ? what stomack of any such dulness , that being overmoist it confesses not amendment after the use of spiced , salted , baked , and dry rosted meats ; and contrariwise complaineth of hurt by fresh liquid sodden and unsavory meats ? The difference of meats in age and sex . 6 Last of all meats differ in age and sex , for the flesh of sucklings is moistest , most slippery excremental and viscous ; the flesh of old beasts are tough , lean , hard , dry , and melancholick : Wainelings less , hard , and dry then the one , and withall more firm , temperate , and nourishing then the other . But generally they are best for most complexions , when they are almost come to their full growth both in height , length , and bigness : for then as their temper is best so likewise their substance is most proportionable to our natural moisture , which is neither so hard that it is unchangeable , nor so thin and liquid that it is over easily disolved . Concerning the difference of meats in sex , the males of beasts , fish , and foul are more strong , dry , and heavy of digestion , the females sweeter , moister , and and easier to be concocted : but gelt beasts , kerned foules , and barren fish , are counted of a middle and better nature then them ; as an Oxe amongst beasts , a Capon amongst birds , & a Pike wounded in the belly can well testifie ; who therefore being unable to conceive again , fatten abundantly , ( as experience dayly sheweth in our London fishponds ) and becometh a most delicate meat . Now are we come to the particular natures of every meat , and first to them which are called by the name of Flesh . CHAP. VII . 1. How many sorts of flesh there be . 2. Whether flesh or fish were first eaten of , and whether of them is the purest and bestnourishment . IT will seem strange perhaps unto some , that they begin first to treat of flesh , which was one of the last foods appointed unto mankind by the voice of God. For ( as before I touched ) till 2240 years after the floud , we read of no flesh eaten or permitted to be eaten of any man. Neither indeed was it needful whilst hearbs , fruits , and grain , were void of that putrifying moisture , whereto ever since the floud they are subject , and whilst mens stomacks were so strong and perfit , that in a manner no meat could overthrow them : aud verily were the Sun of such power with us , as it is in Southern Countries towards the Aequator , to ripen our fruits throughly , and to take them as it were upon the Tree ; no doubt being freed from their crudities and superfluous moisture , they would give as good nourishment unto us ( and perhaps far better ) then any flesh . But now our complexions waxing weaker and weaker through abundance of sin and riot , and our climate being unapt for wholesome and much nourishing fruits , let us give God thangs for storing us with flesh above all other Nations , making our Shambles the wonder of Europe , yea verily rather of the whole world . Now all the flesh we have is taken either from beasts , or birds , or things creeping upon the ground . The difference of flesh . Of the first sort some are tame , as the Bull , cow , oxe , and calfe ; thc ram , ewe , weather , and lamb , the he-goat , she-goat ▪ geled goat , and kid , the bore , sowe , hog , and pig : Others wild , as Venison , red and fallow , wild bore , roebucks , hares , connies , hedg-hogs , and squirrels . Amongst tame Birds these are most familiar unto us : Cock , hen , capon , chicken , turky , peacock , goose , guiny-hens , duck , and pigeon : amongst wild foul some keep and feed chiefly upon the land , as Bystard , crane , heronshaws , byttors , stork , Pbeasant , Heathcock , partridge , plover , lapwing , cuckoe , pye , crows , woodcocks , rails , red shanks , gluts , woodsnites , Godwits , smirings turtles , stockdoves , rock-doves , ringdoves , jayes , wood peckers , stonechatters , thrushes , mavis , feldefares , blackbirds , stares , quailes , and all sorts of little birds ; as sparrows , reed sparrows , larks , bulfinches , goldfinches , thistlefinches , citron-finches , bramblings , linnets , nightingales , buntings , wagtailes , robin-redbreasts , wrens , witrolles , siskins , oxeys , creepers , titmise , titlings , swallow , and martlets . Others live in or upon the water , , as Swan , Bergander , Barnicle , wildgeese , wild-duck , Teal , widgin , fly-duck , shovelars , cormorant , curtues , gulls , black-gulls , seamewes , cootes , water railes , sea-pies , pufins , pivers , shell drakes , moor-cocks , and moorehens , dobchicks , Water Crows kingsfishers , water-snits . Of creeping things I know none but the snail in our Country , which some esteem not only for a meat , but also for a meat very restorative . And thus much of the kinds of flesh . Now let us come ( for recreations sake ) to the comparison betwixt Flesh and Fish ; which of them is the more ancient , pure , and wholesome meat for mans body ; whereat perhaps both Butchers and Fish mongers will be much pleased , and perhaps no less of fended : but I will write what I have read , and leave the determination to others that can better judge . Whether flesh or fish be the more ancient , pure , and wholsom meat . The Charter-Monks to the preferring of fish before flesh , use especially these arguments : First , That Christ did feed most upon it ; for we never read but once that he did eat flesh ; but that he did often eat fish it is proved by many places , namely , Mat. 15. Luc. 5. 9. Mar. 6. 8. John 6. Furthermore he restrained by name no kind of fish from the Israelites , but divers kinds of flesh ; which sheweth that fish is the cleaner , purer , and more holy meat : for the action of Christ should be our instruction , and his works our imitation . Thus much said Baldwin Arch-Bishop of Canterbury , of whom Rainulphres writeth this story . When Baldwin was chosen Arch-Bishop of Canterbury , he sware that from the time of his enstallment , to his dying day , he would never eat flesh : whereby his body so decayed , that he fell into a consumption : An old woman meeting him on the way as he was carried in an open Horselitter , called him liar to his face : whereof being reproved by some of his followers , Why ( said she ) do you rebuke me ? doth he not lie , for saying that he never ate flesh since his enstallment , when his face sheweth that he surpassed the savages in eating his own flesh ? For indeed by superstitious observing of his vow , he became an anatomie , and lived as a cypher amongst men . But to answer the Carthusians arguments , I say this ; That Christ in the places of Scripture cited before , asked his Disciples what meat they had ? and they answered , None but a few loaves and a few fishes ; wherewith he satisfied himself and his Disciples , and above five thousand persons at one time : Neither is it to be doubted if they had had flesh , but he would have fed the people with that : For it was his property ( which every man ought to follow ) to eat with thanksgiving of that which was set before him , were it flesh or fish ; as no doubt he did at the marriage in Canan , in Lazarus his house , and the house of Zacheus , and at the feast of the passeover , which albeit ( for ought we read ) he did but once celebrate , yet reason and Religion teacheth us , that according to the commandment of God , he did every year celebrate it before , since the time of his childhood ; else the Jews would have accused him as a transgresser of the Law , and by justice have cut him off from amongst the people : but as he submitted himself to circumcision ( being then one of the Sacraments of the Church ) so questionless after the years of discretion , he did yearly eat of the pascal lamb ( for he came not to break any Law given by Moses , but to fulfill it ) which cannot be fewer then five or six and twenty times at the least . As for the other argument taken from the restraining of certain beasts and birds by name , and that no fish by name is there forbidden : Saving Baldwin his graces reverence , it is a very lie : For when God generally forbiddeth the Israelites to eat of any fish , that wanteth either fins ( as the Poulpe , Periwinkles , Lobsters , and Crabs ) or scales ( as the Eele , Lamprey , Plaise , Turbot , and Conger , &c. ) doth he not expresly forbid them to eat of Poulps , Periwinkles , Lobsters , Crabs , Eeles , Lampres , Plaise , Turbot , and Conger , and a hundred fish more wanting either scales or fins ? Fish is therefore no purer meat then flesh , neither can a Carthusian eat a Sole ( being a meat forbidden the Israelites ) with a sounder conscience then a piece of Bief or Swines flesh . Finally , where he saith that the actions of Christ should be our instruction , and his works our imitation : Why do not those fishy Friars eat flesh every Maundy Thursday , sith Christ himself did so , whom we ought to imitate ? But let these alone to the conformity of their Church injunction , remembring also with St. Paul , to abstain from no meats which God hath created for our life and health . It is recorded by St. Jerom in his Epistles , that Seneca upon a foolish conceit abstained so long from flesh , and fed only upon fruit and fish ( infected perhaps with the leaven of the Egyptian Priests ) that when upon Neroes commandment he was to bleed to death , there did not spring from him a drop of bloud . The like is written of St. Genovese , the holy Maid of Paris , who ( like the Egyptian Prophetess ) abstained wholly from flesh , because it is the mother of lust : she would eat no milk , because it is white bloud ; she would eat no eggs , because they are nothing but liquid flesh : Thus pining and consuming her body both against nature and godliness , she lived in a foolish error , thinking flesh more ready to inflame lust , then fruit or fish , the contrary whereof is proved by the Islanders , Groenlanders , Orites , and other Nations ; who feeding upon nothing but fish ( for no beast nor fruit can live there for cold ) yea having no other bread then is made of dried Stockfish grinded into powder , are nevertheless both exceeding lecherous , and also their women very fruitfull . Yea Venus the mother of lust and lechery is said to have sprung from the fome of fish , and to have been born in the Sea , because nothing is more availeable to engender ust , then the eating of certain fishes and sea-plants , which I had rather in this lascivious age to conceal from posterity , then to specifie them unto my Countrymen , as the Grecians and Arabians have done to theirs . What Nation more lascivious then the fenny Egyptians , and the Poeonians ? yet their meat was only fish , yea they fed their horses with them , as Herodotus writeth . Also in the Isle of Rhodes , the Mother-seat of a strong and Warlike Nation , the people heretofore fed chiefly of fish , abhorring with such a kind of detestation from flesh , that they called the eaters of it savages and bellies . And verily if a strong , lusty , and Warlike Nation sprang from the eaters of fish alone , why should we deny , that fish is as much provoking to venery , as any flesh . So then , I having fully proved that flesh is as lawfull , as pure , and as holy a meat as fish ; Now let us try which of them is the more ancient and best nourishment Did we but mark ( saith Plutarch ) the greasie fowlness of Butchers , the bloudy fingers of Cooks , and the smell of every beasts puddings and offal : we must needs confess , that first every thing was eaten before flesh , which even still we naturally abhor to see whilst it is in killing , and few touch without loathing when it is killed . The Indian Philosophers . called Brachmanes , being at length induced to feed upon living creatures , killed fish for their sustenance , but abhorred from flesh . And though the Babylonians delighted much after Nimrods example , in hunting and killing of wild beasts , yet ( as Herodotus reporteth ) they abstained from flesh , and lived wholly upon fruit and fish . For answer of which Objections , I oppose to the Babylonians , Abraham and the holy Scriptures ; which making mention of a Calf drest and eaten in Abrahams house , before ever any mention is made of eating of fish ; it is very probable that flesh was foremost , after the general permission to eat both . To the Indian Sophisters I oppose Pythagoras and his Schollars , who being perswaded at the length to eat of certain beasts and birds , utterly yet abstained from eating of flesh , perhaps upon these causes . First because it is a cruel and unmanlike thing , to kill those creatures which cannot possibly hurt the inhabitants of the earth . Secondly , what necessity is there to use them , Nature having replenished the earth with fruit , herbs , grain , beasts also , and birds of all sorts ? Thirdly , Had fish been eaten first , no doubt it had been first eaten of the Islanders and Sea-borderers ; but neither the inhabitants of Hellespont , nor the Islanders of Phoeacum , nor the Wooers of Penelope ( bringing all manner of dainties to their feasts ) are ever read in Homer to have brought or eaten fish . No nor Ulysses his companions are recorded to have made their Sea-provision of fish , but of flesh , fruit , salt , and meal ; neither used they any hook to catch fish withall , till they were almost famished for want of victual ( as you may read at large in Homer his Ulysses ) which is a manifest argument , That fish was not used ( or at the least not eaten of ) till men were unfurnished of other meats . Last of all , whereas Plutarch objecteth how loathsom a thing it is to see Butchers and Cooks sprinkled with bloud in killing and dressing flesh . I answer him , That the sight is not so loathsom to nature , but to niceness and conceit . For what God permits to be eaten , nature permits to dress and kill ; neither rebelleth she more at the death of an Ox , then at the cutting down of hay or corn . Nay furthermore , sith all was made for mans use , and man for God , she giveth us liberty to kill all things that may make for the maintenance of our life , or preservation and restoring of our health . Hippocrates most wittily having shewed , that some men are deceitful by nature , and that therefore nature taught them the art of making Dice ( the instruments of deceit ) he sheweth consequently , that because nature is provident for mens health , therefore she hath likewise invented the arts of building , plaistering , weavin g and tillage : wherefore ( to imitate and urge Hippocrates argument ) if nature have provided flesh and fish ( that a substantial , this a more light nourishment for our bodies ) how squemish soever we are to see them killed , yet it is no unnatural thing to see it , no not to do it our selves . Concerning the last question Whether flesh or fish be the better nourishment ; I cannot answer better then as Galen did , being asked the like question of wine and water . For as wine is best for one man , and water for another ; so likewise flesh is most nourishing to some constitutions , and fish to others . Timothie was young , but yet sickly and weak stomacked , his youth required water , but his sickness wine ; wherefore Paul , like a good Physician ; advised him to drink no longer water , but a little wine for his stomacks sake , and his often infirmities . So likewise Severus the Emperor being sick at York , of a hot gout , his Physicians forbad him all flesh , especially of the stronger sort ; but he refusing their councel , nourished his disease with forbidden meats , and soon died . Contrariwise Seneca was forbidden by Serenus the Physician to eat any more of fish , being too too watrish a nourishment for his weak body ; which whilst he refused to do and forbare to eat flesh , his bloud was all turned to a gellied water . So then in respect of particular persons , neither flesh nor fish be of better nourishment , but both alike : yet generally flesh engendreth the better , purer , and more perfect bloud ( as the very colour and face of men which use either of them apart , doth perfectly declare ; ) and consequently for sound men , it is and ought to be accounted the best sustenance . CHAP. VIII . 1. Of the Flesh of tame Beasts . VEAL . CAlves Flesh is of a temperate constitution , agreeing with all ages , times , and temperatures . Calves are either Sucklings or Wainlings : The first are of easier digestion , making good bloud , and driving choler from the heart : So likewise is the Wainlings , but somewhat harder ; either of them agree with hot and dry persons , howsoever it is drest ; but to flaggy and moist stomacks , Veal is unwholsom unless it be dry roasted ; for roasted meats give drie nourishment , and boil'd meats moist , as Galen writeth . The Italians are so in love with Veal , that they call Veal Vitellam , that is to say , their little life : as though it gave not only nourishment , but also life to their dry bodies : which albeit I confess to be true , by reason neither their Calves flesh , nor their own bodies , be so moist as ours ; yet in our Country it falls out otherwise through abundance of moisture ; so that howsoever sound bodies do well digest it , yet languishing and weak stomacks find it too slimy , and can hardly overcome it : Did we not kill them so soon as commonly we do , namely , before they be fully a month old , they would give the more sound and wholsome nourishment ; for till they be five or six weeks old , their flesh is but a gelly hardened ; afterwards it is firm flesh , void of superfluous moisture , and most temperate of constitution . Likewise in the choice of Veal , the Bull Calf is thought the sweeter and better flesh , whereas in all other beasts ( for the most part ) the female is preferred . BEEF . Ox-beef , the older it is after his full growth , the worse it is , engendring ( as Galen dreamed of all beef ) quartane agues , leprosies , scabs , cankers , dropsies , stoppings of the spleen and liver , &c. but whilst it is young , or growing forwards in flesh and fatness , it is of all meats by nature , complexion , and custome , most nourishing unto English bodies ; which may easily appear in the diffecence of their strength , and clean making , which feed chiefly upon it , and betwixt them that are accustomed to finer meats . Chuse we therefore the youngest , fattest , and best grown Ox , having awhile first been exercised in wain or plough to dispel his foggie moisture ; and I dare undertake , that for sound men , and those that labour or use exercise , there is not a better meat under the Sun for an English man ; so that it be also corned with salt before it be roasted , or well and sufficiently poudred before it be sod : for so is it cleansed from much impurity , and made also more savory to the stomach : but if it be over salted , poudred , or dried ( as commonly it happeneth in Ship provision and rich Farmers houses , that keep beefe a whole twelve-month till they eat it ) it is tough , hard , heavy , and of ill nourishment , requiring rather the stomach of another Hercules who is said to have fed chiefly of Bulls flesh ) then of any ordinary and common ploughman . Wherefore howsoever we may taste of it to bring on appetite , let it be but a touch and go : for being eaten much and often , it will heat and corrupt our blood , dry up our bodies , choke the mesaraical veins , and bring forth many dangerous inward and outward griefs . The Romans when they first ventured to dress an Oxe ( fearing belike what event might follow the eating of an unknown meat ) roasted the Oxe all at once , and stuft his belly with all sorts of sweet hearbs , and good flesh that the season yeelded , making no small pudding in his belly , which the people called Equm Trojanum , the Trojan horse : because it contained no fewer kinds of meats then that did Soldiers ; but had they known the wholesomness of the meat , and our manner of dressing , they needed not to have mingled so many antidotes , and to have corrupted rather then corrected so good a nourishment . Cow Biefe . Cowbiefe is supposed by the Irish people , and also by the Normans in France to be best of all : neither do they account so much of Oxen ; either because they think the unperfit creatures , or rather ( as I take it ) because they know not how to use and diet them in the gelding . But were they as skilful in that point , as also in the killing and dressing of Oxen , as was Prometheus ; no doubt they would make higher estimation of one Oxe , then of all the fat Cowes in Ceres stall . Nevertheless I deny not , yea I affirm with Galen that a fat and young Heifer , kept up a while with dry meat , will prove a convenient temperate and good nourishment , especially if it be kil'd after the French fashion , as I saw the Norman butchers kill them in our Camp , whilst I lay there in Camp with that flower of Chivalry the Earl of Essex . When the Cow is strook down with the axe , presently they lay her upon her back , and make a hole about the navel , as big as to receive a swans quill , through which the butcher blowes wind so long , till the whole skin swell round about like a bladder , in such sort that the beast seems of a double bigness ; then whilst one holdeth the quill close and bloweth continually , two or three others beat the Cow as hard as they can with cudgils round about : which beating never bruseth the flesh ( for wind is ever betwixt it and the skin ) but maketh both the hide to prove better Leather , and the flesh to eat better and tenderer then otherwise it would . Bull Beife . Bull Beife , unless it be very young , is utterly unwholesome and hard of digestion , yea almost invincible . Of how hard and binding a nature Bulls blood is , may appear by the place where they are killed : for it glaseth the ground and maketh it of a stony hardness . To prevent which mischief either Bulls in old time were torne by Lions , or hunted by men , or baited to death by dogs as we use them : to the intent that violent heat and motion might attenuate their blood , resolve their hardness , and make their flesh softer in digestion . Bulls flesh being thus prepared , strong stomachs may receive some good thereby , though to weak , yea to temperate stomachs it will prove hurtful . Lambs Flesh . Galen , Halyabbas , and Isaac , condemn Lambs flesh for an over phlegmatick and moist meat : breeding ill nourishment , and through excessive watrishness slipping out of the stomach before it be half concocted , in cold stomacks it turns all to slime , in a hot stomack it corrupts into choler , in aged persons , it turns to froth and flegm , in a young person and temperate , it turns to no wholesome nourishment ; because it is of so flashy and moist a nature : all which I will confess to be true in sucking Lambs who the nearer they are killed to their birth day the worse they are : but when they are once weaned , and have fed half a year upon short and tender grass , I think that of all other flesh it is simply the best , as I will prove by divine and humane reason . For as in the new Testament , the Lords Supper materially consisteth of two such things , as there cannot be any drink or meat devised more comfortable nor more strenthening to the nature of man , namely Bread and Wine : so likewise the blessed Sacrament of the old Testament , could not conveniently be so well expressed as in the eating of that , which was the purest , most temperate , and most nourishing of all meats : and what flesh is that I pray you ? Veal ? Pig ? or Goats flesh ? or the flesh of wild beasts ? or the flesh of Birds ? no , but the flesh of a sound weaned Lamb , of a year old , whose flesh is neither too cold and moist , as is a sucklings ; nor too dry , and hot ▪ as when it hath strength to know the Ewe : but of a most temperate constitution , fittest to resemble the thing signified , who is of all other our best nourishment . Philochorus is recorded to have made a law that the Athenians should eat no more Lambs flesh : not because they thought it too tender a meat for mens stomacks ( as some foolishly have conceived ) but because the people found it so wholesome , pleasant , and nourishing , that every man desired it above all meats : in such sort that had not the eating of them been restrained by a severe law , the whole race of Sheep would have decayed amongst them . Upon the like reason Valens the Emperour made a law that no Veal should be eaten ; which was counted in old time a princely meat ( for alwaies it was one dish at the Kings table in Egypt , though they never had but two ) howsoever through God his singular blessing it is an ordinary meat amongst us in mean households . The best way to prepare Lambs flesh is sufficient roasting ; for boyling makes it too fleshy and phlegmatick , and by over-rosting the sweetness thereof is soon dried up . Yea all Mutton ( contrary to the nature of Pork , Pig ▪ and Veal ) should rather be too raw then too much roasted ; according as the French men find by experience , who slash and cut a giggot of Mutton upon the spit , and with the bloody juice thereof ( tempered with crums of bread and a little salt ) recover weak stomacks and persons consumed . Wherefore howsoever some naturally abhor it ( as my honest friend Signor Romano ) and strong stomacks prove better with harder meat ; yet without all question , a Lamb chosen and drest in manner aforesaid , is for most men a very temperate nourishing and wholesome meat , agreeing with all ages , times , regions and complexions . Arnoldus Freitagius in his natural history , saith that the hinder quarters of a Lamb being drawn with rosemary and garlick first steept in milk , and moderately rosted at the fire , is a meat most acceptable to the taste , and also profitable to moist stomacks , for which it is else commonly thought to be hurtful . Also he assureth , that Lambs flesh being well beaten with a cudgel before it is roasted , eateth much better and is far wholesomer : which I leave to be judged by the Cooks experience . Mutton . Mutton is so generally commended of all Physicians , if it be not too old , that itis forbidden to no persons , be they sick or sound . The best Mutton is not above four years old , or rather not much above three ; that which is taken from a short hilly and dry feeding , is more sweet short and wholesome , then that which is either fed in ranck grounds , or with pease-straw ( as we perceive by the taste ) great fat and ranck fed sheep , such as Somerset shire and Linconshire sendeth up to London , are nothing so short nor pleasant in eating , as the Norfolk , Wiltshire , and Welsh Mutton ; which being very young are best rosted , the elder sort are not ill being sodden with bugloss , borrage , and persly roots . Now if some shall here object , that gelding and spading be unnatural actions ; and that Eunuchs are subject to more diseases then perfect men : inferring thereupon a reason or likelihood , that the like may be also in all gelded ware ( and consequently in Muttons ) contrary to that which Galen hath affirmed ; I will deny all their positions upon good grounds . For even nature hath deprived some things of that which gelders cut away ; and that Eunuchs are freed from many diseases ( as Gouts , Baldness , Leprosies ) whereunto other men are subject , experience in all ages truely avoucheth . Last of all , it is generally confessed of all skilful Shepherds , ( and namely by Charles Steven and John Liebault ) that Ewes and Rams are subject to far more maladies then Muttons ; requiring greater cost , care , skill , and providence to maintain them in health . Rams flesh and Ewes flesh . As for Rams flesh and Ewes flesh ( that being too hot and dry , this too excremental and soon corrupted ) I commend neither of them , especially in this Country of ours , where there is ( God bethanked ) such choice of wholesome Wethers . Kid and Goat . As Lambs flesh is lighter and moister then other Mutton , so is Kid more light and moist then Goats flesh : because ( as Hippocrates reasoneth ) it is less bloody , and the blood which it hath is very moist , liquid , and fine . The black and red Kids are better then the white : and the younger they are ( so they be above a fortnight old ) the more wholesome and nourishing they are esteemed . Their flesh is soon and quickly digested , of excellent nourishment , and restorative after a great sickness : especially for young persons and hot stomacks , but naught for them which are old & phlegmatick . It is better rosted then sod , and the hinder parts are to be prefered because they are dryer and less excremental . They are temperately hot and moist , whilst they are under six weeks age : for afterwards they grow to such heat and lasciviousness , that ( before they are wained ) they will after they have suckt , cover their own dam ; after they are once wained , their flesh may be fit for strong labouring men , which would not so well brook a tender suckling ; but for the most part of men it is unwholesome and of bad juice . The Old He-goat is suitable to an old Ram , save that it is more tough , hard , and unpleasant ; his flesh is not to be eaten , till he hath been baited like a Bull to death , and when he is dead you must beat the flesh in the skin , after the French fashion of beating a Cow. The She-goat being young , is less hurtful ; but an old She-goat is worse and of a more sharp and corrupt juice : rather provoking venery and sharpness of seed ( as also the Male doth ) then nourishing the body . A gelded Goat was unknown unto ancient Physicians , but questionless it is the best next to sucking Kid ; for it is more moist through abundance of fat , and also of more temperate heat because it wanteth stones ; in which I certainly believe a more violent heat to be placed , then in any part beside : yea whereas the liver draweth onely from the stomack and guts by the meseraical veines , and the heart only from the lungs and liver , and the brain from all three ; the stones have a heat which draweth seed from the whole body , yea from the bones and gristles , as Hippocrates writeth and reason collecteth . Furthermore the tollerable smell which a gelded goat hath , sheweth that his flesh is far sweeter : but He-goats and She-goats are so ranck , that a Fencer of Thebes feeding much of them , no man could endure his sweat . Also the chief Priest of Rome did never so much as touch them saith Plutarch , because they are subject to the falling sickness , letcherous in life , and odious in smell . Pigg , Sowe , Bore , and Hogg . Piggs flesh by long and a bad custome is so generally desired and commended , that it is credibly ( though falsly ) esteemed for a nourishing and excellent good meat : Indeed it is sweet , luscious , and pleasant to wantons , and earnestly desired of distempered stomacks : but it is the mother of many mischiefs , and was the bane of mine own Mother . A sucking Piggs flesh is the moistest flesh simply of all other ; engendring Crudities , Palsies , Agues , Gowts , Apoplexies and the stone : weakning the memory ( for it is moist in the third degree ) procuring fluxes of the belly , and engendring most viscous , flashy and corrupt humours . Their flesh is hardly digested of a weak stomack , and their leather-coat not easily of a strong . The younger they are , the worse they are : yet some venture upon them ( yea covet them ) ere they be eight days old ; yea the Romans delicacy was such , that they thought them dainty meat being taken blood and all out of the Sowes belly ere she was ready to farrow , eating them after a little bruising in the blood , no less greedily then some do the pudding of a bruised Deer . We do well in roasting our Piggs at a blazing fire , sprinkling them with salt on the outside : but if we stuft their bellies with a good deal of salt as well as sage , and did eat them with new sage , and vinegar and salt , they would be less offensive . The Danes I remember ( when I was at Elsenore ) draw them with garlick as the French men do with lard : which is no ill correcter of their sliminess and viscous humour . The Bore-Pig is not preferred before the Sow-Pig : because it is strong and ranck . Bores flesh ( I mean of the tame Bore ) is never good but 〈◊〉 it is brawn'd ; which though Pliny avoucheth to be first invented by Servillus Rullus , yet by Plautus it seemeth to be a more ancient meat . The best way of brawning a Bore is this of all other , which I learned first of Sir Thomas George , and saw practised afterwards to good purpose . Shut up a young Bore ( of a year and a half old ) in a little room about harvest time , feeding him with nothing but sweet whey , and giving him every morning clean straw to lye upon , but lay it not thick . So before Christmas he will be sufficiently brawned with continual lying , and prove exceeding fat , wholesome and sweet ; as for the common way of brawning Bores , by stying them up in so close a room that they cannot turn themselves round about , and whereby they are forced alwaies to lye on their bellies , it is not worthy the imitation : for they feed in pain , lye in paine , and sleep in pain : neither shall you ever find their flesh so red , their fat so white , nor their liver so sound , as being brawned otherwise accordingly , as is before rehersed . After he is brawned for your turn , thrust a knife into one of his flanks , and let him run with it till he dye : others gently bait him with muzled Doggs . The Roman Cooks thrust a hot Iron into his side , and then run him to death ; thinking thereby that his flesh waxed tenderer and his brawn firmer . Sows Flesh is reckoned of Isaac , to engender good blood , to nourish plentifully , yea to be restorative if it be young . But an old Sow breedeth ill juice , is hardly concocted , and begetteth most viscous humors . The Heliopolitanes abstained from Sows flesh of all others : First , because ( contrary to the nature and course of all other beasts ) she admits the Bore not in the full , but in the wane of the Moon . Secondly they demand , How can her flesh be wholsom , whose milk being drunk , filleth our bodies full of leprosie ▪ scurf , tetters and scabs ? Yea a sow is one of the most filthy creatures in the world ; her belly is never void of scurf , her throat of kernely imposthumes , her brain so heavy and moist , that she cannot look up to heaven ; or rather she dare not , being the rooter up , and so bad an inhabitant of the earth . Nevertheless I am of Isaacs mind , that a young Sow kept long from the Bore , sweetly dieted with roots , corn , and whey , and kept from filthy feeding and wallowing , may be made good and tolerable meat for strong stomacks , after it hath been powdered and well rosted . Pork and Bacon . Now concerning Pork and Hogs flesh , made of a spaded Sow , or a Hogg gelded , verily let us say thereof ( as Theon said of all sorts of swine ) if it be not good for meat , wherefore is it good ? his cry is most odious and harsh , his smel loathsom , his very shape detested : at home he is ravening , in the field rooting , and every where filthy , foul , unhappy , and unprofitable . All which hurts he recompenceth in this only one , that of all other beasts ( if Galen be not deceived ) he most nourisheth : especially if he feed abroad upon sweet grass , good mast and roots ; for that which is penn'd up and fed at home with taps drappings , kitchin offal , soure grains , and all manner of draffe , cannot be wholsom . In Plinies time they were so far from fatting them with such refuse , that ( considering they were to be eaten of themselves ) men usually fatted their hogs with milk and figgs . But sith that course is more chargeable then necessary for Englishmen ; either let their hoggs feed themselves fat abroad with grass and mast , or at home with only sweet whey , and a little grounded corn , then which they cannot have a more sweet meat . Furthermore , to use Galens encomium or phrase of a hogg ( whereby you may swear he was no Jew , nor Lopus no good Physician ) howsoever nothing less resembleth a man , then a Hogg in his outwards , yet inwardly no creature resembleth him more : For the colour and substance of his flesh , the shape , figure , connexion , suspension , proportion , and situation of his entrails , differ little or nothing from mans body : and besides that ( when he is of a just grouth ) his temper is also most like to ours . Thus much out of Galen for the praise of Pork ; whom albeit Rea●dus Columbus , and Vesalius do oppugne in their Anatomies concerning the likelihood of a mans and a hoggs entrails ; yet none hitherto denyed Pork to be a a temperate meat , being corned and rosted , or sodden after it hath been well powdered . Nevertheless , ( to yield mine own opinion ) I esteem it ( by Galens leave ) a very queasie meat , howsoever it be prepared , and to have in it self alwaies , flatuosum chacochynicum & febrile quid . For if you eat it fresh , it is as dangerous as fresh Sprats to an aguish stomack : if you eat it corned , yet is it of gross juice , and speedy corruption , unless by mustard and sorrel sawce it be corrected : If it be sodden and powdered ▪ green-sawce made of sorrel , is to be eaten with it , both to cool the fiery nature of the salt , and also to qualifie the malignity of the flesh it self : If it be salted and made into Bacon , how hard is it to be digested in most mens stomacks , either boiled or fryed ? Yea the Caretanes of Spain ( whom Strabo ▪ writeth to be the best makers of Sawsages and salt meats in the whole world ) and the Normans in France ( whose Bacon flitches and jambons Varro extolleth ) could never so dry Bacon , or make Pork into such wholsom Sawsages , seasoned with Pepper , Salt , and Sage , but that it needed a draught of Wine more then ordinary to macerate and digest it in the stomack . It is recorded that Leo the tenth , Pope of Rome , loved Pork so exceedinglv , that he bestowed above two thousand crowns a year in Sawsages , mingling the brawnes of Peacocks , with Porks flesh , Pepper , and other Spices , which were afterwards called Leonis incisia , Leo his Sawsages . But when Hadrian the sixth his successor perused the accounts , and found above ten thousand Ducats spent by his predecessor in that one meat , he detested him ( saith Jovius ) as much dead , as he honoured him whilst he was alive . Finally , no Brawn , Pork or Bacon , should be eaten without Wine , according to that old Verse made in Salern School ( which some no less account of then the Heathen did of Apollo his Oracles ) Est caro porcina sine vin● pejor ovina ; Si tribuis vina , tune est cibus & medicina . As Mutton tough , Pork without Wine Is not esteem'd so good : But if that Wine be drunk thereon , 'T is Physick both and Food . Or if Wine be scarce , drink after such meats , a good draught of your strongest beer well spic'd with Ginger , and then labour it out ( as Ploughmen do ) for ease after gross meats is very dangerous ; but strong labour overcometh all things . As for the entrails of Hoggs , and especially the Harsenet ( which Publius Syrus preferred before all meats ) I find them to be stopping , and of bad nourishment ; yet the Livers of Piggs are counted nourishing , but their Lungs are watrish and very phlegmatick . CHAP. IX . Of the Flesh of Wild Beasts , or Venison . Wild Bore , and Wild Sow . OF all Venison , Hippocrates most commendeth the flesh of a Wild Sow , because it is not only an excellent nourishing and strengthening meat , but also medicinable to keep us from costiffness . Reason teacheth us that it is farr above tame Pork or Swines flesh : First , because it feeds more purely ; secondly , because it hath not meat brought to hand , but gets it by travail , and hath choice of Diet to feed whereon it listeth . Thirdly , it is not penn'd up ( as commonly our Swine be ) in a little Close and stinking Stie , but enjoyeth the benefit of a clear aire , which clarifieth bloud , as much as any meat can augment it . It is a rare meat in England , and found only ( as I have been enformed ) in my Lord Latimers Woods , who took great pleasure in hunting them , and made also wild Buls of tame ones , as our fore-Fathers ( more wisely ) made tame of wild . If they be young , fat , fully grown , and taken in chaso , in the Winter time ( presently after mast is fallen ) they are unfit for few mens stomacks , being thus prepared as I have seen them drest in High - Germany . First , after the flesh is throughly cold , parboil it in Rhenish Wine , wherein ripe Juniper berries were sodden : then having taken it out and sliced it , season every slice or cut thereof with Pepper , Salt , Cloves , Mace , Ginger , and Nutmegs , of each a sufficient quantity , last of all make it in paste , with good store of sweet butter and it will prove a most excellent meat to be eaten cold . Wild Calves are common in Wales upon the Mountains : whence one was brought this last Christmas to Ludlow Castle , where I did eat of it rosted and bak'd ; and by taste I find it more firm and dry , and by the effects of digestion , more wholsom and passable then our ordinary Veal . Red and Fallow Deer . Now concerning Deers Flesh , which Isaac in his old age so much longed for ; some imagin it to be the worst meat of all others , and some conceive it to be the best . Galen numbreth it amongst hard , meclancholique , and gross Meats , comparing , yea almost preferring Asses flesh before it ; ascribing also unto it ill concoction , ill nourishment , stoppings , and quartane Feavers . Roger Bacon thinks it one of the best meats , if it be so young that we can digest it : For , saith he ( Quod diu sem tipsum , alios illud diu conservare potest ) that which long liveth by its own nature , maketh also others to live long . But by his leave , we may then feed better upon Ravens then Capons , for these never live above seaven yeares , and a Raven liveth to nine hundred yeares , if Virgil be not deceived . Plutarch thinketh Deer an unwholsom meat , because it is of a cold and melancholick constitution . And how proveth he that ? forsooth 1. because he is fearful : secondly because if he were of a hot complexion ( as the wilde Bore is ) his teares would be sweet , as his be ; but the teares of a Deere ( and especially of a Stagg ) are salt : ergo , he is of a cold and dry constitution . But Empedocles was of sounder opinion , who ascribeth all teares to the working of heat : for as milke yieldeth whey by stirring , churning and pressing , so any violent passion ( be it joy or greife , anger or pitty ) churneth the blood , stirreth the humors , and presseth the brain , wherupon teares ( the wheyish part of them all ) must needs ensue . Furthermore they are thought to be unwholsom , because Bucks and Staggs feed much upon snakes : yea as an Ass is to a Lions mouth , or hony to Bears , or Bees to Martlets , so are Serpents to them a most desired meat ; whereupon the Grecians call them 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , Serpent catchers . Might I be a sufficient Arbitrator between two so Learned men , I would determine the truth to be on either side : For indeed young Venison , whilst it is sucking , is very restorative ; neither do I think old Isaac in his declining age to have delighted more in it in respect of taste , then in respect of wholsomness and goodness . Also a gelded Deer is neither too dry , nor too cold , but of a temperate constitution , and so void of superfluous or excrementitious humors , that his horns never grow again after he is gelt , which Aristotle , and all Philosophers impute to superfluity of heat and moisture . Nay young Bucks and Does , Hinds and Staggs ( whilst they are in season ) are a wholsom and delicate meat , breeding no bad juice of themselves , yet bearing often the faults of bad Cooks ( which know not how to dress nor use them aright ) but more often the deserved reproaches of greedy Gourmands , that cannot moderately use the good creatures of God ; either eating venison when they should not , or more liberally and usually then they should . The Italians also have this opinion of Venison , that eaten in the morning , it prolongeth life , but eaten towards night , it hasteneth death . Contrariwise old Venison indeed is dry , and perhaps too cold likewise ; full of gross , clammy , and incorrigible humors : So that the same meat may be wholsom at some age , in some times , and for some certain complexions , which otherwise in contrary circumstances is unwholsom : yet is it never so pretious as that a man should venture his life to get it by stealth , as many doe , and have done in Noble mens Parks , yea perhaps in their Princes Forrests and chief Chases . Cardan affirmeth that Bucks and Does have no Galls in their bodies , which is rather a signe of good temperature and lightness , then of any dull , dry , or heavy meat . This one thing only I will add , That Keepers of Parks , or at the least their servants and young children , have , upon my knowledge , fed all the year long of little meat else , and yet remained as strong , healthfull , and active , as any persons could be . Finally , admit Deer be dry ; doth not butter amend them ? Suppose they be cold ; doth not pepper and salt , and baking , give them sufficient heat ? Thus , howsoever it falleth out , they are either by preparation ( which none can deny ) or by nature ( as I verily believe ) a good nourishment , so that they be chosen in their due season , just age , and moderately fed upon : Neither have we any reason from their unwholsomness to dispark our Parks , or to c●t down Forrests provided for their succour ; nay rather we ought to cherish them for the maintenance of Hunting , whereunto if young Gentlemen were addicted , as their Fathers were heretofore ( they would be more ready ( whereof Hunting is a resemblance ) to Warlike purposes and exploits . Roebuck and Capreol . But of all Venison Roebuck and Capreol bareth away the bell ; for whereas the forenamed beasts are discredited for their grosness of blood , the Capreol his blood is exceeding fine , through his swift running , and continual frisking and leaping from place to place , whereby his pores are ever opened , and all bad humours consumed by exercise , so that the very smell of his flesh is not heavy nor fulsome ( as in other Deer ) but fragrant , quick and delightful ; neither hath his flesh the ordinary taste of Venison , but a peculiar and more pleasant taste : neither lyeth it heavy upon any stomack , but is digested as soon as Kid ; curing also ( as Isaac writeth ) the falling sickness , colick , dropsie , and abundance of fleam collected in any part . It is permitted to all indifferent stomacks , and forbidden onely to Children , colerick constitutions , lean and consumed bodies , shrunck sinews , and burning agues . The Alpes are full of them in high Germany , and some of our mountains of Wales are not without them . They are good roasted , sodden , or baked as red Deer ; but you need not to pepper or salt them half so much , for their flesh ( even when they are old ) is easily digested , and scarce needeth a cup of wine ( which other Venison necessarily requireth ) to hasten their concoction . Furthermore , where all kinds of other Venison are not good but at certain seasons , yet the Capreol is never out of season : being alike wholesome in Sommer and Winter , and alike toothsome , as the borderers of the Alpes do best know , and our owne Country men might perceive if they made trial . Hares . Hares or Leverets ( the beloved meat of Alexander Severus ) taken in hunting , roasted with fresh lard , and eaten with Venison sawce , cannot offend a reasonable stomack . Galen saith that the flesh of a Hare prevents fatness , causeth sleep , and cleanseth the blood : how be it in another place he saith , that it breedeth gross blood and melancholick humours : which unless he understand only of old , lean , and unseasonable Hares , experience it self will overthrow him ; For take a young Leveret , and let it blood as you do a Pigeon , the flesh of it will be very white , tender , and well rellishing ; yea little inferiour to a midso●mer Rabbet . Yet I deny not ( with Hippocrates ) that it dryeth more then ordinary meats : for it provoketh much urine , and so accidentally moistneth little , though it be moist enough of its own nature . Pissanellus writeh ( and the Italians generally believe it ) that eating of much hares flesh maketh a man fair and merry seven dayes after ; For which purpose perhaps they were so much in request amongst the Romans , who fatned young Hares in clappers , as we do Connies , finding them so dieted to be a delicate and wholesome meat : tame Hares so prepared are good at all times but wild Hares are best and fattest in the hardest time of Winter . Certain it is , that much eating of Hares flesh procureth leanness ; because it is very diuretical , and common sence teacheth , that a man pissing much cannot be fat , because the wheyish part of blood ( called of Hippocrates 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the sled of nourishment ) is sooner expelled then that it can carry nourishment throughout the body . The neither Germans hang their Hares six or seven daies in the cold and shadowy aire before they flay or dress them : whereby they prove exceeding tender , though a night or two nights hanging were sufficient . We do usually boil the foreparts in broth , and rost only the hinder parts : and not without reason ; for as in Kid and Lamb the hinder parts are driest ; and therefore we seeth them , the fore-parts over-moist and therefore we roast them : so contrawise a Hare is driest before , and moistest behind . Now concerning such Medicins , as Matthiolus avoucheth to be taken from a Hares harsenet , from his skin , gall , kidneys , bones , stones , haire , blood , and dung ; I think it impertinent to the treatise of Diet , which sheweth not how to give Medicines but to use nourishments . Connies . It is not to be thought strange that Hippocrates and Galen , and all the Grecians wrote so little of Connies , which with us , above all other Nations is so common a meat . For as Ithaca never bred , nor fostered them , so in all Grece they hardly lived . Here ( thanks be to God ) they are plentiful , in such sort that Alborne Chase affordeth above a hundred thousand couple a year , to the benefit of good house-keeping , and the poors maintenance . Rabbet suckers are best in March , agreeing as well with old melancholick dry , and weak stomacks , as disagreeing with strong and moist complexions . A Midsomer Rabbets flesh is less moist and more nourishing ; but a Michaelmas or Winter Rabbet is of firm , wholesome , temperate , and most laudable flesh : best roasted , because their nourishing juice is soon soked out with the least seething , making good broth and bad meat . Chuse the Female before the Male , the fat before the lean , and both from out a chalky ground and a sweet laire . Hedghoggs . When I considered how cleanly the Hedghogg feedeth , namely upon Cows milk ( if he can come by it ) or upon fruit and mast ; I saw no reason to discontinue this meat any longer upon some fantastical dislike ; sith books , nature and experience hath commended it unto us . For as Martial made Hares flesh the daintiest dish of the Romans , so in Hippocrates time the Hedghogg was not of least account among the Grecians ; which he commendeth for an excellent nourishment , were it not something too moist and diuretical . Nay ( as some affirm ) it nourisheth plentifully , procureth appetite and sleep , strengthneth Travailers , preserveth Women with child from miscarrying , dissolveth knots and kernelly tumours , helps the Lepry , Consumption , Palsy , Dropsie , Stone , and Convulsion ; onely it is forbidden unto Melancholick and Flegmatick persons , and such as are vexed with Piles or Hemorhoids . Squirrels . Squirrels are much troubled with two diseases , Choler and the Falling-sickness ; yet their hinder parts are indifferent good , whilst they are young , fried with parsly and butter : but being no usual nor warrantable good meat , let me skip with them and over them to another tree ; for it is time to write of the winged nation , which promise us a second course of more dainty , I will not say of more wholesome meats . Neither shall any discourse of Asses flesh ( which Maecenas so highly loved , that all Italy was too little to find him Asses enough ) nor of horse flesh ( for longing after which Gregory the third excommunicated the Germans ) nor of Foxes flesh ( which the Vandales eat for restorative ) nor of Lions flesh ( wherewith Achilles was dieted in his pupillage ) nor of Beares flesh ( which the Moscovite calls his great venison ) nor of Apes flesh though it most resembleth a man ( which the Zygantes in Africa highly esteam & eat of in their solemn feasts ) nor of Lysards , Tortesses , or any other four-footed beasts : nor of mans flesh , albeit the Canibals praise it above all other ( as Osorius writeth ) and Cambletes King of Lydia having eaten of his own wife , said he was sorry to have been ignorant so long of so good a dish . As for the flesh also of young puppies ( commended of Hippocrates & afterwards of Galen ) howsoever in the Isles of Corsica & Alalta they are still esteemed as good meat , yet Cardan saith in his divers history , that they made the people like to doggs , that is to say , cruel , stout , rash , bould , and nimble . Wherefore leaping over these insolent and bad meats , which neither use nor reason hath confirmed . I now to come treat of Birds and fowl , and then of fish , and the fruits of the earth , and waters according to my first division . CHAP. 10. Of the Flesh of tame Birds . THat the Flesh of tame foul nourisheth more then wild foul , Isaac the Physitian proveth by three arguments . First , because they are more usually eaten of , and so by custom ( a second nature ) made more agreeable to our stomacks . Secondly , where al other Birds fly from us , and are not gotten without cost and travel : nature hath caused tame Birds to converse with us , and to offer themselves ( as it were ) to be killed at our pleasure : which verily she would never have done , had they been of a small or a bad nourishment . Thirdly , wild foul ( for the most part ) especially such as flye far for a little meat , and trust more to their wings then their feet , though they are more light in digestion , because they are of a more spirituous & aiery substance ; yet they are not of so abundant nourishment as tame houshold Birds , which feed not at randome of what they can get , but of good corne , such as men themselves eate , and therefore most fit to nourish man. Now of all kind of fowl , remember that the youngest is tenderest and lightest ; old Birds flesh is heaviest , but they which are proceeding to their full growth are most nourishing ; for ungrown Birds ( and much more nestlers ) give but a weak thin and gelly-like substance , old Birds are tough and dry ; those which are almost fully grown are of a more fleshy and firm nature . Furthermore all Birds feeding themselves abroad fat with wholesome meat , are of better nourishment then such as be cram'd in a coop or little house : for as prisoners smell of the Gaol , so do they of their own dung . And thus much generally of birds : Now let us come to every particular . Pulli Gallenacei . Chickens ( saith Avicen ) are so pure and fine a meat , that they engender no excrements in our bodies , having in themselves no illaudable substance : Wherefore Caius Famius being sick of a burning feaver which had almost consumed all his flesh , was advised by his Physicians to eat of no other meat then Chickens : whereby he recovered his consumption ; and the eleventh year after the second Carthaginian Wars , made a Law , that nothing but Chickens or young Pullets fed in the Camp should be brought to him at his meals . The young Cockrels are counted the best in this kind , being of all flesh the most commendable , nourishing strongly , augmenting seed , and stirring up lust : For which purpose Boleslaus Duke of Silesia did eat thirteen Cock-chickens at a meal ; whereof he died without having his purpose fulfilled , because he knew not how to use so wholsom a creature . We doe not amiss in England to eat sodden Chickens and Bacon together , for if they were eaten first , and Bacon after , they would oversoon be digested , and if they were eaten after Bacon , they would be corrupted : but they are best being rosted , because they are a moist meat ; and if they be sawced with Sorrel and Sugar , or with a little Butter and Grape-Verjuice , they are a most temperate meat for weak stomacks ( as Platina and Bucinus set down ) for no man I think is so foolish as to commend them to Ploughmen and Besomers . White Chickens are found by experience to be hardest of digeston , as Gilbert our Countryman writ a great while since : Yet Griunerius preferreth them for Hectick persons , because they are coldest and moistest of complexion . They are all best in Summer , as contrariwise Pullets and Hens be best in Winter . Cock-chickens are best before they crow lowd , Hen-chickens before the cock offereth to tread them . Galli . Cocks Flesh , the more old it is , the less it nourisheth ; but if they be young , and kept from their Hens , and dieted with white bread and milk , or wheat steept in milk , they recover men out of Consumptions , and Hectick fevers : and then their stones , livers , and loyns , are of excellent good nourishment : being sodden they are nothing worth , for their goodness is all in the broth : as for their flesh , it is good for nothing but to dry and bind the stomack . Galen saith , that as the broth of a Hen bindeth the body , and the flesh loosneth the same ; so contrariwise the broth of a Cock loosneth , and the flesh bindeth . They of the game are esteemed most wholsom ; called of the Romans , Medici galli , Cocks of Physick , because the Physicians most commended them : Amongst which , if I should prefer the Kentish kind for bigness and sweetness , I suppose no injury to be done to any Shire of England . Chuse the youngest ( as I said ) for nourishment : for if once he be two years old , his flesh waxeth brackish , tough , and hard of digestion , fitter to be sodden in broth for the loosning of the belly , then any way to be dressed for encrease of nourishment . Gallinae . Hens are best before they have ever laid , and yet are full of eggs ; they also are best in January , and cold months , because long rest and sleep in the long nights makes them then fattest . Their flesh is very temperate ( whilst they are young ) of good juice , and large nourishment , strengthening natural heat , engendring good blood , sharpning a dull appetite , quickning the eysight , nourishing the brain and seed , and agreeing with all ages and complexions ; for they are neither so hot as to turn into choler , nor so cold as to turn into fleagm , nor so dry as to be converted into melancholie ( and yet Rhasis imagineth them to have a secret property of breeding the Gout and Hemorrhoids ) but turn wholly , or for the most part into blood , making a lively colour in the face , and quickning both the eyesight and every sense . Pullets flesh ( saith Avicen ) helpeth the wit , cleareth the voice , and encreaseth the seed , which is a manifest argument that it nourisheth greatly ; which also Gallen confirmeth by many other arguments ; but that argument of encreasing seed is the chiefest of all , seed being the superfluity or abundance of nourishment . Hens flesh is sweetest , when they are not too much fed , but dig out their meat with their heels in a clean flour ; for exercise consumeth the superfluous moisture , which else cannot but make them more unpleasant . Nevertheless the Delians used to fat them with bread steept in milk , and Platina , Apicius , and Stendelius shew many waies to fatten them ; but the best way is to let them fat themselves with pure corne cast amongst chaff , that by exercise of their legs in shuffl●ng and scraping they may make their flesh to eat better , and prove more wholesome ; and yet by your leave ( Mr. Poulter ) the fattest Hen or Capon is not wholesomest , but that which is of a middle fatness ; for as in a man too much fatness is both a cause of diseases , and a disease it self , so falleth it out in their bodies ; which how can they be wholesome meat unto others , when they are diseased in themselves ? Of a black Hen the broath is whitest , and of a black Goat the milk is purest ; the most part of Hens and Hares are scurvy and leprous . CAPI . Capons of seven or eight months age , fatned in an open air , on a clean flour with pure meat , are preferred by all Physitians ( old or modern , Greeks or Latins ) before all meats . And to say the truth , what dish can any Cooks-shop afford , that can be compared with a boild or rosted Capon ? which helpeth appetite , openeth the brest , cleareth the voice , fatneth lean men , nourisheth all men , restoreth sickmen , hurteth none but the idle , tasteth pleasantly , digesteth easily ; which is also more solid then the flesh of Pullets , more tender then Cocks , more familiar to our nature then Phesants or Partridges ; not so dry as a Cock to be slowly digested , not so moist as a chicken , to be soon corrupted ; but equally affected and tempered in all qualities , engendring much blood and yet unoffensive , engendring much seed without unnatural sharpness or heat : finally the flesh of Capons is so mild , temperate , and nourishing , that Faventinus fears not to make it the ground of his restorative electuary ; yea Aloisius Mundella thinketh him to be desperately consumed , whom Capon-gellies and cullises cannot recover . Concerning the preparation of them , I commend them roasted for moist stomacks ; but beeing boild with sweet marrow in white broth , they are of speedier , though not of stronger nourishment . Now if a Capon be so wholesome a meat , why should we not also by stitching up some veins , or searing them in the loins , try whether we may not likewise make Hen-capenets ? which the Italians practise to good purpose , and make them exceeding fat ; but yet in Pisanels judgment they eat too moist . One word more of the Etymology of a Capon ; which some derive from the English by an Irony , Capon ; because he hath not his cap on : others from the Italian , Capone , that is to say , qua pone , set it hither , because it is an excellent dish ; but I like Fritagius his Etimologie best of all , Caponem dicimus quasi caput omnium : We call it a Capon saith he in th● Latin , because it is Caput omnium , the head or chief of all other meats . And thus much of a Capon , whose excellencies had the heralds known when Dr. Capon bought his arms of them , I see no reason why they should have preferred into his Scutchions three Cocks , all being nothing equivalent to one Capon . Galli Africani . Meleagrides . Turkies , though they be very hardly brought up , and require great cost for their feeding , yet their flesh is most dainty and worthy a Princes Table . They were first brought from Numidia into Turky and thence to Europe , whereupon they were called Turkies . There are some which lately brought hither certain checkred Hens and Cocks out of new Guiny , spoted white and black like a Barbers apron ; whose flesh is like to the flesh of Turkies , & both of them like the flesh of our hens & cockchickens , but that they be two parts hotter and moister then ours . The youngest , fatted in the fields or at the barn door , killed also in Winter rather then in Sommer , and hanged a day and night before they be drest , are wholesomest to be eaten and of best nourishment . Their flesh recovereth strength , nourisheth plentifully , kindleth lust , agreeth with every person and complexion , saving such as be of too hot a temper , or enclined to rhumes or gouts ; it must be throughly roasted , and if it be sticked full of cloves in the roasting , or when it is to be baked ( which are the two best waies to cook a Turky ) it will soke up the watrishness , and make it of speedier digestion . PAVONES . Peacocks are ( as Poets fain ) the beloved Birds of Juno : which none durst kill in old time , for fear of that jealous and revengeful Goddesses displeasure . Among the Romans Quintus Hortensius was the first that ever brought them to the table ; whose commendation made them so desired , that within a while a Peacocks egg was sold for ten pieces of silver , and his kacrsas for twenty times as much . Afterwards Marcus Lurco seeing that old and lean Peacocks grew to such a rate , he began to cram them fat whilst they were young , and gained thereby in a short time six thousand Sesterties . Leo the tenth ( that noble Epicurean Pope ) made their brawnes into Sausages , allowing therefore every year many hundred Ducats . It is strange that S. Austin writes of Peacocks flesh , namely that in a twelve month it corrupteth not after it is drest : Nay Kiranides avoucheth , that a Peacocks flesh will not putrifie in thirty years , but remaineth then as sound and sweet as if it had been new killed ; which whether it proceed of the toughness and sinewy constitution , or the feeding upon Serpents ( as some imagine ) I will not now determin : this I onely observe , that being once above a year old , their flesh is very hard , tough , and melancholick , requiring a strong stomack , much wine , and afterwards great exercise to overcome it . It is very ill for them that are molested with the Hemorrhoids , and such as live slothfully . Concerning their preparation , Galen appointeth them to hang upon a hook fifteen daies , but Haliabbas twise fifteen before they are drest . The Italians after they are drawn , stuff their bodies full of nettles ( which softneth the hardest cheese being laid amongst them , and then they either bury it in sand , or hang it in a cold dry place , with a great weight at his heels ; and so within a fornight it becomes very tender . Plutarch reports out of his countriments experiments , that an old Cock , or an old Peacock , or any hard flesh , hanging but one night on a fig-tree , waxeth very tender by morning : others ascribe as much to the hanging of them upon a brasen hook , which I permit to trial ; and wish both as true in effect , as the reasons why they should be so are learnedly disputed . As for young Peacocks , fed at home , with wholesome and pure meat ( as bread corn and curds ) no doubt they are very good meat , yeelding not onely a taste extraordinarily strange and pleasant , but also giving good nourishment : the older sort is best roasted with lard ; the younger without lard , both should be well sowced in pure wine ; for without it they are unwholesome . Anseres . Galen commendeth nothing in a Goose beside the Giblets , Stomack , and Liver , sodden in broth : which whether Scipio Metellus , or Marcus Sestius first noted , Pisanellus durst not decide ; but had he been as conversant in Pliny , as he might have been , he should have read , that a question was moved in Rome , who did first fatten geese : some imputing it to Scipio and some to Sestius . But Messalinus Cotta without all controversie was the first , that ever taught how to dress and use their Giblets . Nevertheless sith the Kings of Egypt feed usually but on two dishes , Geese and Veal ; either custome hath made them a harmless meat , or else they are not so hard , hot , aguish , and melancholick a meat as some suppose them . Jason Pratensis saith , that the Jews have so hard a flesh , so foul a skin , so loathsome a savour , and so crooked conditions , because they eat so many Geese . Indeed their exceeding watchfulness , moody disposition , and blackness of flesh , argue a melancholick constitution ; yet being taken whilst they are young , green feathered , and well fatted with wholesome meat , and eaten with sorrel sawce to correct their malignity ( if any malignity can remain after such dieting ) no doubt their flesh is as nourishing as it is pleasant and sweet . But of all other a young stuble goose feeding it self fat in wheaten fields , is the best of all ; being neither of too moist nor too dry a flesh , but a middle constitution . If any Goose be eaten above four months old , it is badly digested without Garlick sauce , exercise , and strong drink . Fritagius , in his Creophagia , having set down that young Geese are over-moist , and old Geese very aguish , appointeh them to be both corrected in this sort . Before they be killed make them to receive the smoke of Borax down into their bodies three or four times together ; then stuff them with spices and sweet hearbs , and rost them throughly ; which is a very good way to correct their superfluous moisture ; but nothing available for their aguishness . Savanarola maketh Geese of a very hot constitution , Albertus maketh them very cold ; their flesh is hard to digest , and yet more moist ( saith Galen ) then of any water-foul besides : but their natural feeding shews them to be hot and dry , as Savanarola writeth ; for they drink infinitely often , delight to be in the coldest waters , and feed most gladly upon Lettice , Endiff , Purcelane , Trifoil , Ducks meat and Sowthistle . They are so tame and obsequious to them that usually feed and dieted them , that ( if Pliny saith truth ) they were driven ( like sheep ) from Brabant and Picardy to Rome on foot ; but I fear me whilst he did so excessively commend their obedience , he did 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , play the very Goose himself . Cygni . Swans flesh was forbidden the Jewes , because by them the Hieroglyphical Sages did describe hypocrisie ; for as Swans have the whitest feathers and the blackest flesh of all birds , so the heart of Hypocrites is contrary to their outward appearance . So that not for the badness of their flesh , but for resembling of wicked mens minds they were forbidden : for being young they are not the worst of meats ; nay if they be kept in a little pound and well fed with Corn , their flesh will not onely alter the blackness , but also be freed of the unwholesomness ; Being thus used , they are appointed to be the first dish at the Emperour of Moscovie his table , and also much esteemed in East-Friezland . Nevertheless I deny not but that naturally they are unwholesome , for their flesh is hard and black ; and all flesh the blacker it is , the heavier it is , the whiter the lighter ; and the more red the more enclining to heaviness , the less red the more enclining to lightness and easiness of digestion : which being once written for a general rule , needs not ( I hope ) hereafter to be repeated . Anates . Tame Ducks feed filthly , upon froggs , toades , mud , waterspiders , and all manner of venemous and foul things : Wherefore it is not untruly said of Gesner , that the best part of a Duck are his feathers ; for his flesh is hotter then of any tame fowl , and withall toomoist , hard , gross , of slow digestion , and very excremental ; yea furthermore , so aguish , that once or twice it brought Galen himself into a fever , while he desired to try the operation of it . Nevertheless young Ducklings fed with grinded malt and cheese curds , drinking nothing but milk ( or chalkwater ) wax both white , fat , and soft in flesh , giving much good nourishment , clearing the colour of ones face , amending hoarsness of throats , encreasing seed , and dispelling wind : wherein we may see , that art and diet can make that wholsome , which nature of it self hath made hurtful . Pipiones . Columbae . Tame Pigeons are of two sorts , the one great and very tame , breeding monthly , kept and fed continually at home : the other fed never at home but in Cadlock time and the dead of Winter , when they can get no meat abroad , breeding onely but twice a year , namely at the first and later seed-time . They are of a very hot complexion , and dry when they are old ; but whilst they are young they are hot and moist ; the wilder sort is most wholesome , being killed after it hath flown a while up and down the Dove-house , for then they give a purer juice , by reason that their foggy moisture is lessened by exercise ; also they must be let blood to death under the wing , which though Dr. Hector assumed to himself as his own invention , yet it is of no less antiquity then Plinies writings . Being thus newly killed and forthwith rosted at a blasing fire , their flesh engendreth great store of blood , recalling heat unto weak persons , clensing the kidneys , quickly restoring decayed spirits , especially in phlegmatick and aged persons , for whom they are most proper . In Galens time ( saith Rhasis ) they onely pluckt off their heads and cast them away ; but bleeding under the wing is far better , and maketh their flesh more cold and whiter ; in so much that Galen is not afraid , to commend them to persons sick of agues . Nay the Italians do as usually give them in agues , as we do Chickens . Pigeons of the first flight are counted better , because the latter flight is after they have eaten cadlocks , which maketh them neither to eat so sweet , nor to prove so white and wholesome : when they cannot be had , home Pigeons ( I mean of the greater sort ) are to be taken , and to be used in the like manner . CHAP. XI . Of the flesh of wild fowl , ahiding and feeding chiefly upon the Land. THere is no small difference of Land fowl , according to the meat they feed on , and the place they live in ; for the purer their meat , the better meat they are themselves ; they that feed upon flesh or garbage , are not so wholesome as they that feed upon good corn , bents , or wholesome seeds ; less wholesome are they which feed upon worms and fish on the Sea shore , or rivers banks ; but worst of all other , they that feed upon Serpents , Spiders and Venemous beasts : which no doubt may prove very medicinable to cure diseases , but they cannot prove nourishing ( keeping their natural diet ) to restore flesh . Concerning the place wherein they live and feed , it is certain that high and dry Countries have the wholesomest Birds : for they which sit in low and moist places , are of no sweet nor wholesome complexion . Furthermore , their manner of taking alters their flesh ; for a Partridge taken in flight , or a Larke dared with a Hawke , is worth ten taken with nets , springes , and trammels ; the reason whereof is already set down in my Chapter of Preparation . Finally look what Bird is whitest flesht , that Bird is easiest to be digested : what Bird is reddest of flesh , is strongest of nourishment : whatsoever is black of flesh , is heavy to be digested and of slow nourishment ; yea so much the heavier and slower , by how much his skin and flesh appeareth blacker . This shall suffice to be generally spoken of land fowl , yea of all fowl : now let us descend to their particulars , beginning with birds of greater volume . Tardae . Bistards or Bustards ( so called for their slow pace and heavy flying ) or as the Scots term them , Gusestards , that is to say , Slow Geese , feed upon flesh , Livers , and young Lambs out of sowing-time , and in harvest time , then they feed upon pure corn : In the Summer towards the ripening of corn , I have seen half a dozen of them lie in a Wheat-field fatting themselves ( as a Deer will doe ) with ease and eating ; whereupon they grow sometimes to such a bigness , that one of them weigheth almost fourteen pounds . Now as they are of an extraordinary bulk , so likewise are they of rare nourishment to indifferent strong stomacks , rellishing finely , restoring bloud and seed , offending no part of the body , but strengthening all . Chuse the youngest and fattest about Allhalontide ( for then are they best ) and diet him a day or two with a little white bread , or rather keep him altogether fasting that he may scour away his ordure ; then let him bleed to death in the neck-veins , and having hanged three or four daies in a cool place our of the Moon-shine , either rost it or bake it as you do a Turkie , and it will prove both a dainty and wholsome meat . Grues . Cranes breed ( as old Dr. Turner writ unto Gesner ) not only in the Northern Countrys amongst the Nation of Dwarfs , but also in our English Fens . Pliny saith , that in Italy they feed much upon Grapes ; but with us they feed chiefly upon corn , and fenny seeds , or bents , Theodosius esteemeth them of a cold temperature ; but all the Arabians judge them to be hot and dry : Certain it is that they are of themselves hard , tough , gross , sinewy , and engendring melancholique bloud , unfit for sound mens tables ( usually to be eaten of ) and much more unmeet for them that be sick ; yet being young , killed with a goshawk , and hanged two or three daies by the heels , eaten with hot galentine , and drowned in Sack , it is permitted unto indifferent stomacks . In Plutarch's time Cranes were counted a dainty and good meat , fatted after this manner : First , they stitched up their eyes , and fed them in the dark with wholsom mixtures of corn , milk , and seeds to make them white , tender , and pleasant of taste : A day before they were killed , they tempered their meat with the juice of that herb , or with a good quantity of that seed whereof they would have their flesh especially to relish ; were it Mints , Basil , Time , Rosemary , Commin , Coriander , Fennel-seed , or Annis-seed : Which course if we likewise observed in the cramming of Capons , and fatning of our houshold birds , without question they would taste far more delicately . Ciconiae , Asteriae , Ardeolae . Storks , Bittors , and Herons , neither do breed , nor can breed any good nourishment , feeding chiefly upon little fishes , frogs , and worms : yea the Stork delighteth in newts , water-snakes , adders , and sloeworms ; but ( except it be almost famished ) it will not venture upon a Toad , as Casparus Heldelinus writeth . It was my chance in my first travel into Germany , to meet one Godfrey Achtius ( chief Physitian of Aquisgrane ) at Francfort Mart , whose Triacle was there sold , and esteemed better then the Triacle of Venice , whereinto he put not the flesh nor the salt of Adders ; but the flesh of a Heronshaw , fed a long time with nothing but such Adders as Galen wisheth us to chuse . Verily his conceit was not ill ; and if we practised the like in England , it cannot be amiss , considering that the subtilest part of the Adder is ( no doubt ) as it were sublimed and imbibed into the Storks body and flesh : Wherefore howsoever we use such birds for Physick , yet let us not feed upon them as upon meats , lest we take poyson instead of nourishment . Nay even all the Heronshaws , ( namely the black , white , criel-Heronshaw , and the miredromble ) though feeding somewhat better then the Byttor or Stork , are but of a fishy and strong savour , unless they be very young , and scarce able to fly ; yea they are not dangerless being green rosted , but procure the piles and smarting hemerrhoids ; of all of them , chuse the youngest and fatest , for they may be eaten , so with much spice , salt , or onions , and being throughly steept in a draught of old Wine . Furthermore , if they be drest without their skins , they rellish far better , according to the French and the best fashion , who also stuff them full of sweet herbs , and draw them with fine and small lard . Phasiana . Phesants are of so excellent a constitution , as well for substance as temperature , that from them as from a centre , Physicians do judge the complexion of every foul , being of a middle constitution betwixt a brown Hen and a Partridg ( or as Pisanellus will have it , betwixt a Capon and a Partridg ) neither so moist as the first , nor so dry as the second , but exceeding both in taste , temperature and goodness . Galen , Rhasis , Avicen , Averrhois , Arnaldus de Villa nova , Trallian , and all Writers do prefer a Phesant for the soundest and best meat of all other ; and the Frenchmen think a Phesant to be called Fai-san , because it maketh a sound man. Nevertheless Savanarola willeth men not to eat them often in health , that when sickness cometh they may do them the more good . They are best in Winter , and the young ones are fittest for weak stomacks ; the old ones are to hang three or four daies by the heels , and then being drest , they will eat tender . In Hectick Fevers , and upon recoveries from a long or violent sickness , no meat so wholsom as Phesant-pouts ; but to strong stomacks it is inconvenientest , especially to Ploughmen and sabourers ▪ who eating of Phesants , fall suddenly into sickness , and shortness of breath , as Pisanellus hath wittily ( and perhaps truely ) noted . Attagenes Myricae . Heath-Cocks whilst they are young , are little inferior to a Phesant , very well relishing , and being of good digestion ; when they wax old , all their flesh proves black , saving the brawn next their brest-bone , which is ever white , tender , firm , and wholsome . Perdices . Partridges have a temperate heat ; but encline to driness in the second degree ; they feed upon Snails , Chickweed , tops of Leeks , and all manner of good and wholsome corn ; they are never subject to pips , nor any rhumatick diseases , which maketh them to live till they be almost twenty years old : But beware of old Partridges , for they are as dangerous as old Beef ; being young and tender , they agree exceeding well with cold , weak , watrish , and pale bodies , drying up a moist stomack , strengthening the retentive power , easily turning into pure bloud , fatning the body , and encreasing lust . They must not be eaten ( saith Galen ) being newly killed , but hang a while in the cold aire : And the wings and brest of a Partridg ( as also of all birds , save a Woodcock , trusting to their flight ) are better then the legs and thighs : Nay the legs and thighs of Partridges are thought by Sethi , to have an extraordinary weakness in them , causing them to go as if their back or ridg-bone were parted in sunder , whereupon perhaps they had their name , and were called Part-ridges . Chuse them that are young and fat , killed with the Hawk at sowce , or else at foot after a long flight . Their broath is good for a weak stomack , for the jaundies , and a tainted liver . If you seeth them in Capon-broth with marrow , eggs , and bread , a Panado made of that broth is exceeding nourishing , being eaten next ones heart . But if you would have a strengthening broth indeed , then seeth them in broth wherein chines of Mutton have first boiled : Rosted Partridg is best for most stomacks , if it be not too dry rosted ; for then it is rather Physick to stay a loosness , then fit meat to nourish or restore flesh . They are best at the end of Harvest , before they have either troad or laid . Rallae terrestres . Railes of the land ( for there is also a water-Rail , which the Venetians esteem so highly ) deserve to be placed next the Partridg , for their flesh is as sweet as their feeding good , and they are not without cause preferred to Noble mens Tables . Gallinagines & Rusticulae . Woodcocks and Snites are so light of digestion , and so good in temperature , that they agree with most mens stomacks , especially at their first coming in , or rather a moneth after when they have rested themselves after their long flight from beyond the Seas , and are fat through ease and good feeding upon fat worms , and snails , lying in trees . Avicen and Albertus dreamed that Woodcocks and Snites fed upon seeds ; whereas indeed no bird with a long piked , crooked , and narrow bill can pick them up : but where they perceive a worms hole ( as I have seen Snites to do ) there they thrust in their Bill as far as they can , and if the worm lie deep , they blow in such a breath or blast of wind , that the worms come out for fear as in an Earthquake . If worms fail , then they pick snails out of their shels , and likewise devour them . Towards their going out , either of them wax drier and worse rellishing . Woodcocks require the stronger stomack , Snites the weaker ; both are of laudable nourishment , but chiefly the Snite . There is a kind of Wood-Snite in Devonshire , greater then the common Snite , which never comes into shallows nor springs of water : And in Holland I remember Snites never living out of springs , as great almost as our Woodcocks , called Herren-Schnepfs , because they are in comparison the Lords or chief of Snites , or that they are onely fit for Lords Tables , which Gesner therefore also termeth by the name of Rusticula regalis . Columbae Petricolae Liviae Palumbes Turtures . Wild-Doves be especially four in number , Rock-Doves , Stock-Doves , Ring-Doves , and Turtledoves . Rock-doves breed upon Rocks by the Sea-side , but never far from Corny Downs , whether in Seed and Harvest-time they fly for meat , living all the year besides upon Mast and Ivy-berries . The other three sorts of Doves feed also upon Corn , Mast , Hawes , Juniper-berries , Ivy-berries , Hurtle-berries , and Holly-berries when they are ripe . Marcus Cato fatted young Ring-doves with Bean-meal made into paste with new milk ; and Didynius , Turtledoves with bread steept in Wine ; which way they are made of excellent taste and nourishment , though also undieted they are good , being under half a years age . Avicen ( contrary almost to the opinions of all other Writers ) commendeth the flesh of Turtles above all other , as being of a good nourishment , easily digested , quickning wit and memory , encreasing seed , and strengthening both stomack and guts exceeding well . But Isaac reproveth that opinion , unless it be understood only of young Turtles , or such as have been fed and fatted in the house by art , with moist and cooling nourishments : For otherwise ( as he truly avoucheth ) all manner of Wild-doves are so hot , hard , and dry , that they cannot prove of any indifferent nourishment . Coturnices . Quails have gotten an ill name ever since Pliny accused them for eating of Hemlocks and Bear-foot ; by reason whereof they breed cramps , trembling of the heart and sinews ; yea though Hercules loved them above all other meats , in so much that Iolaus fetcht him out of a swound when he was cruelly wounded by Typhon , with the smell of a Quail ; yet with much eating of them he fell into the falling-evil , which ever since hath been termed Hercules's sickness . Avicen thinketh that they bring cramps not onely by feeding on Helleborus and Hemlocks , but also from a natural inborn property . Monardus writeth thus of them ; I allow not the flesh of Quails neither in the Spring nor Winter , not because the ancient Fathers of Physick do condemn them ; but because reason is against them . For in the Spring and Summer time they are too dry , engendring rather melancholy then bloud : In Autumn and Winter they are too moist ; yea though they be fat , yet are they of small nourishment , causing loathing of stomack , and corruption of meat . Baptista Fiera , Amatus Lusitanus , yea Avicen , Rhasis , Isaac and Galen are of the same judgement ; only Arnoldus de Villa nova in his Commentary upon the Salern School , affirmeth them in some Countries to be of fine substance , good juice , and easie digestion : Nay , Kiranides saith that their broth clenseth the kidneys , and their flesh nourisheth indifferently well . Were I here to give my censure , I would be of either side , and yet defend the truth likewise ; for I nothing doubt but Quails flesh is bad ( as Ducks flesh is ) of its own nature , and heavy to be digested ; nevertheless being taken young before they have eaten of unwholsome weeds , and fatted with pure Wheat , Hemp-seed , Coriander ▪ seed and Milk ( or Chalk-water instead of Milk ) I make no question that their flesh is laudable , and may be counted a good and dainty meat . And here by the way let us marvel at one thing , That Qualis are generally forbidden because their flesh engendreth the falling evil , and yet Galen commendeth their brains ( the principal seat of that great evil ) as an Antidote against the same . What need I write that when the Israelites loathed Manna , Quails were sent them as the best and daintiest meat of all other ? And if some curious Paraphrast would therefore say it was the worst , because whilst the flesh was in their mouthes , many thousands of them fell in the Wilderness ! We answer , That it was not through the badness of the food , but the naughtiness of their lusting and tempting God. Pluviales . Plovers feed upon no solid meat , and therefore being new , have no need of drawing ; their meat is chiefly the scom or excrements of worms lying about their holes , or of worms themselves ; yet are they of a very sweet , delicate , and fine flesh , being taken when they are fat in Winter-time ; and the gray Plover is so highly esteemed , that this Proverb is raised of a curious and malecontented stomack ; A gray Plover cannot please him . Yet to some the green Plover seemeth more nourishing , and to others the Lapwing , which indeed is savory and light of digestion , but nothing comparable to Plovers . Cuculi . Cuckoes flesh , whilst it is a nestler , is by Perot highly extolled ; but when once it comes to feed it self , it is ill rellishing , hot , and leprous . Gesner asketh , How any man dare be so foolish or venturous as to eat of a Cuckoe , whose much spitting argueth a corrupt and excremental flesh ; yet by experience we find the young ones to be good meat , yea Pliny and Aristotle preferre them for sweetness above most birds : And albeit the old ones feed filthily upon Dorrs , Beetels , and venomous spiders , yet the young one are fed by the Titling , ( their foster-dam ) with gnats , flies , and red-worms , having no venomous nor bad quality . Fedoae . Godwits are known to be a fenny fowl , living with worms about Rivers banks , and nothing sweet or wholsom , till they have been fatted at home with pure corn ; but a fat Godwit is so fine and light a meat , that Noblemen ( yea and Merchants too by your leave ) stick not to buy them at four nobles a dozen . Lincolnshire affordeth great plenty of them , elsewhere they are rare in England wheresoever I have travailed . Erythopodes & Glottides . Redshanks also and Gluts feed in the Fens upon redseeds , bents , and worms , and are of no bad taste , nor evil nourishment . Ochropodes . Smirings live in watrish Copses with worms , and are a fine and delicate meat . Pici. Pyes or Haggisses feed upon flesh , eggs , worms and ants ; their flesh is very hard and loathsome , unless they be very young , and then are they only the meat of poverty . Graculi . Jayes feed upon akorns , beech-mast and worms , and never came into the number of good nourishments , because they have themselves , and procure unto others the falling-evil . Pici Martii . Wood-Peckers are suspected of the like malignity , though they feed upon timber-worms , the most dainty dish , and most highly esteemed amongst the Romans and Phrygians . Orioli . Witwols are of excellent good nourishment , feeding upon bees , flies , snails , cherries , plums , and all manner of good fruit . Arquatulae terrestres . Stonechatters feed as they do , and are of a very good taste and juice . Ispida . The Kings-fisher feedeth most upon water-worms , and little fishes , and is of a bad rellish , and worse nourishment . Coccothraustes . The Clotbird ( called sometimes a Smatch , or an Arling ) is as big almost as a Thrush , feeding chiefly upon cherries , and cherry-kernels . Nucifraga . The Nope feedeth upon mast , nuts , and cherreis . Sitta . So also doth the little Pyot , which we call a Nutjobber . Upupa . Houpes were not thought by Dr. Torner to be found in England , yet I saw Mr. Serjeant Goodrons kill of them in Charingdon Park , when he did very skilfully and happily cure my Lord of Pembroke at Ivychurch ; they feed upon hurtle-berries , and worms , but delight to feed most upon graves , and mans dung , and stinking soile ; wherefore they deserve to be counted very unwholsom . Turdi & Turdelae Anglicanae . Thrushes and Navisses feed most upon hawes , sloes , misle-berries , and privot-berries ; which being lean , deserve ( as Quintus Curtius used them at Caesars Table ) to be flung out at the windows ; but being young , fat , and in season , and by cunning drawing rid of their gall , they deserve the nourishing in Lucullus Cages , and to be commended by Physicians to Pompey's Table for a most wholsom meat . Turdi Exotici . Feldefares are of the like feed , and give ( almost ) as good nourishment , yea better , when Juniper-berries be ripe , for then all their flesh is perfumed with the scent thereof . Merulae . Blackbirds are preferred by Baptist Fiera farre before Thrushes , Throstels or Feldefares , as being nothing so strong , hot , nor bitter ; Trallianus commendeth all alike . Their feed is on little grashoppers , worms , hurtle-berries , juniper-berries , ivy-berries , bay-berries , and hawes ; they are suspected to be a melancholick meat , because they be never found but alone and solitary , whereupon the Latines call them Merulas , that is to say , Solitarians . Sturni . Stares-flesh is dry and sanery , and good against all poyson , if Kiranides be not mistaken . Galen in one place compares them for goodness , with Partridg , Thrush and Blackbirds ; in another place he dispraiseth them as much for their ill juce , hard digestion , and bad nourishment ; which nevertheless are both true , that being understood of young Stares , fed with wholesom meat , this of old stares , who delight to feed of unwholesom meat as well as wholesome , namely hemlocks , dwale , and such llke . Amongst this treatise of the greater sort of Land-birds , I had almost forgotten Owles , Rookes , Crowes , and Cadesses . Noctuae . Concerning Owles , when they be once old , they feed upon Mice , Frogs , Grashoppers and all kind of flesh . Rabbi Moses in his Aphorisms saith , that the flesh of young Owles is dainty and good , strengthening the mind and diverting melancholie and madness : yea I have heard certain noble men and gentlemen avouch , that no young Cuckoe or Partridge is a finer meat . Corvi Leguminales . Rooks cannot be ill meat when they are young , for they feed chiefly upon pure corn ; but their skin is tough , black , and bitter . Corvus . The carrion Crow is generally condemned , and worthily despised of all men : As also the Cadesse or Jacdaw , which is not more unhappy in conditions , then bad of nourishment . Now we are come to treat of small Birds of the land , which we will divide according to the order of the Alphabet : having first admonished you , that no small Birds must be overmuch sodden , or dry roasted : for then their nourishing moisture is soon taken out ; neither are they to be given to strong stomacks , lest they be converted into choler , whenelse they would wholly turn into good blood . Finally , young Birds must not hang long before they be dressed ; for they are of an airy substance which will soon be evapourated . But let us consider every one particularly in his place . Montifringillae . Bramblings are a kind of small Birds , feeding chiefly upon seeds , sloes , and hawthorne kernels . Rubetrae . Buntings feed chiefly upon little worms . Pyrrhacia . Bulfinches feed not onely upon little worms , but also upon hempseed , and the blossoms of peare-plums and apple-trees . Citrinellae . Citrinels or straw-coloured Finges , be very small Birds , feeding chiefly of white and black poppy seed , but especially of the wild-poppy called Red-weed . Certhiae . Creepers seem to be a kind of Titmise , living upon the worms which engender in and betwixt the barks of Trees . Fringillae . Finches for the most part live upon seeds , especially the Goldfinch , which refuseth to eat of any thing else . Acanthis Atlantica . So also doth the Canarie Finch or siskin ; yet the Bullfinch in hunger feeds upon small worms ; and the Greenfinch upon horsedung , and nuts in frosty weather . Alandae . Larkes are of three sorts : Field Larks , Wood Larks , and Heath Larks . The first sort feeds upon corn seeds and worms . The second chiefly upon worms . The third upon worms and heath seed . Some of each sort are high crested like a lapwing , others uncrested which are counted the more wholesom . Their temperament is hot and dry in the second degree , unless they be young and fat , and then they scarce exceed the first degree . Galen and Rhasis write , that as their broth looseneth , so their flesh bindeth the belly . Linariae . Linnets feed chiefly upon flax seed : but for a need they eat also the seed of hemp and thistles . Apodes . Martinets are either smooth or hairy legg'd : for neither of them have perfect feet , but stumps instead of feet . Baptista Fiera in his treatise of Birds exclaimeth against them , and calleth them beggers meat : engendring most hot and feverous blood , fitter to be eaten as a medicin to quicken eyesight and memory , then as a wholesome or nourishing meat ; but being taken when they are new fledg'd , experience warranteth them a dainty and good meat , except they be over roasted . Luseiniae . Nightingales as Martial said , are nothing worth when their breath is departed ; for as they feed filthily in the fields upon spiders and ants , so their flesh is unwholesome at the table . Pari majores . Oxeys or great Titmise , feed ( as ordinary Titmise do ) upon caterpillers , blossoms of Trees , bark worms and flies ; but their flesh is unwholesome . Rubeculae . Robin-red-brests feed upon bees , flies , gnats , walnuts , nuts , and crums of bread ; and are esteemed a light and good meat . Passeres . Sparrows of the house , feed commonly on the best Corn. They are hot and dry almost in the third degree : engendring hot and aguish blood . The best are the youngest , fattest , and wildest . Trallianus commends leane Sparrows only to such as are sick of the Tympanie : and young Cock-sparrows flesh ( as well as their stones and brains ) to such as be cold of nature , and unable to Venus sports . Haly abbas willeth such men to mince young cock-sparrows with egs and onions , and to eat them in a gally-mawfry : which perhaps you may find a better medicin , then Dr. Iulius his bottle , that is said to have cost twenty pound a pint ; but the red and hedg Sparrows feed ill , and are both unwholesome . Hirundines . Swallows ( be they either house Swallows or banck Swallows ) are of the nature and operation of Martlets , but that they are esteemed the hotter of both . Curruca . The Titling , Cucknel , or unfortunate Nurse ( for the Cuckoe ever lays his egg in the Titlings nest ) feeds upon gnats , flies , and worms ; it is a very hot bird , coming in and going out with the Nightingale , but of a delicate taste Pari. Titmise are of divers shapes with us in England ; some be long , others ▪ be very short taild : some have black heads , some blew , some green , some plain , and some copped : all of them feed but ill , and nourish worse . Motacillae . Wagtailes live upon flies , worms , and fat earth , being no bad meat whilst they are young , unless some because their tail is ever trembling , shall therefore divine that they are ill for the shaking Palsey . Reguli . Wrens feed finely , & sometimes fill themselvs so full of little flies , that their bellies are like to burst . Their flesh being salted cureth Strangullions and the stone not confirmed ; but no man ever wrote that they give good nourishment . Galguli . Yellow Hammers feed ( as the most part of Titmise ) of seeds and grain ; namely the seeds of white and red roses , poppy , burs , thistles , succory and endiff , &c. In the winter time being fat , they are counted wholesome : at other times they are lean and also bitter . CHAP. XII . Of the flesh of wild Fowl , abiding and feeding chiefly upon the waters . Cygni Sylvestres . OF all water fowl , the wild Swan is the biggest and fairest in outward shew : but ( as I said of tame Swans ) it resembleth a hypocrite , for his flesh is black , melancholick , and hard of digestion , though not so hard as the tame , by reason of his much flying . Anseres sylvestres . Wild Geese are for the same reason better then tame , for their high and long flight breedeth tenderness of body , and expelleth many gross and heavy vapors ; but of all other the Bergander is the best and lightest . Anates ferae . Wild Ducks feed chiefly upon a green narrow-leaved grass ( called therefore Ducks grass by Crescentius ) which lieth upon the waters in moors , ponds , and plashes all winter long : but they eat likewise the leaves , seeds , and roots of other waterplants , and also worms , spawns of fishes and frogs , young sedge , fat mud , waterspiders , and all venemous and foul things ; they are no less lecherous then Cock-Sparrows , who as by often treading , they kill themselves and live not till they be two years old , so wild Drakes by often treading kill their Hens . Anates muscariae . But there is a kind of wilde Duck , called Anas muscaria because it eats nothing but flies : which is of as wholsome and good nourishment , as the other is bad and heavy of digestion . Brantae . Barnicles both breed unnaturally by corruption , and taste very unsavoury . Poor men eat them , rich men hate them , and wise men reject them when they have other meat . Querquedulae . Teales● and Widgins feed alike upon worms , herbs , roots and seeds ; commonly they are very fat and sweet of taste ; much to be esteemed above wild-Ducks or Geese , yet suspected of ill juice by many Authors . Totani . Pool-Snites live wholly upon fish , and therefore have a strong and uncouth rellish . Merganseres . Shell-drakes , or the Ducks of Italy , are of most pleasant taste , feeding purely themselves , and us as strongly ; sometimes the● wax so fat , that their feathers being pul'd off , their body hath weighed twelve pound weight . Urinatrices . Divers feed most upon reeds and reed roots , and caddis-worms breeding in them . Scarboides . Such likewise is the Dobchicks food ; but it is of a strong smell , and fatter and tenderer then the most part of fowls that be clove-footed . Fulicae . Coots feed upon reeds , mud , grass , little snails , and small fishes , they are of a strong and muddy savour , best in Autumne , but never wholesome . Nigritae . Moor-cocks and Moor-hens , as also Pocards , be of the like nature with Coots ; save that a fat Pocard is counted a dainty , though not a wholesome meat . Pici marini . Sea-pies as Dr. Cajus writeth , resemble other Pies in colour , but they have whole feet like water fowl ; they feed upon spawn , frogs , and frie of fish , and are but of a bad taste . Mergi . Cormorants , be they gray or black , feed most of fish and frogs , but especially of Eels ; and rellish badly . Arquatae . Curlnes feed wholesomly upon cockles , creuisses , muscles , and perwinkles ; which maketh them to have no ill taste , and to be counted restorative amongst the French , if they be fat . Gulones albi & Cinerei . White Gulls , Gray-Gulls , and Black-Gulls ( commonly termed by the name of Plungers and Water-Crows ) are rejected of every man as a fishy meat ; nevertheless being fed at home with new curds and good corn till they be fat , you shall seldome taste of a lighter or better meat . Pufina Britannica . Puffins being Birds and no Birds , that is to say Birds in shew and fish in substance , or ( as one may justly call them ) feathered fishes , are of ill taste and worse digestion ; how dainty so ever they seem to strange appetites , and are permitted by Popes to be eaten in Lent. Erythropodes . Redlings or Water-Redshancks feed as Water-railes do , and be of the like nourishment . Rallae aquaticae . Water-rails are preferred in Italy before Thrushes or Quails , they feed upon water-snails and water-flies , and the worms breeding in the roots of reeds : They be very sweet and pleasant of taste , giving also a fine and wholesome nourishment . Lari . Sea-mews and Sea-cobs feed upon garbage and fish , thought therefore an unclean and bad meat ; but being fatted ( as Gulls use to be ) they alter their ill nature , and become good . Plateae . Shovelars feed most commonly upon the Sea coast upon cockles and Shell-fish , being taken home and dieted with new garbage and good meat , they are nothing inferiour to fatted Gulls . CHAP. XIII . Of the Inwards and Outwards both of Beasts and Birds . HAving hitherto spoken of the Flesh of Beasts and Fowls , it remaineth now to speak of those parts which are not properly flesh , but either of another , or a mingled nature : Namely , their Fat , Marrow , Brains , Lungs , Livers , Tripes , Stomacks , &c. together with their Eyes , Ears , Noses , Feet , Pinions , Tails , Rumps , Udders , Stones , and Skins : whereof I will write in order . Fat. Fat of Beasts , as it was forbidden the Israelites by God himself , for some cause unto himself best known ; so there be many reasons to perswade us not to eat of the same : For it takes away appetite , gluts the stomack , hardly digesteth , turneth wholly to excrements , and decayeth the retentive powers , especially if it be the fat of greater Beasts , or the greater sort of Birds : For the fat of Rabet-suckers , and little Birds , and small Chickens , is not discommendable , because it is soon and lightly overcome of an indifferent stomack . Of fat Beasts and Birds notwithstanding , the lean is sweetest ( so they be not exceeding fat through cramming , but upon their own feeding ) by reason that it is basted and suppled with the oyliness thereof , and made both tender and of good relish . Wherefore let some commend lard and fat bruis never so much , and slap it up as greedily as they list , yet they will reward us in the end with many diseases , unless their stomacks be exceeding strong and good . Marrow . Marrow is the finest part or ( as it were ) the sweat of fat , secretly conveyed into bones : Sweet , unctuous , and pleasant of taste , nourishing them whose bodies be dry , and stomacks able to digest it . It is sod usually with Capons , Cockrels , and Hens in a nourishing white broth , and also dainty pies be made thereof : but I have known many men to have surfeited of them , and therefore I dare not generally allow of Marrow . Of all Marrows , I find the Marrow of a Deer easiest to digest ; next of a young Mutton , and Beef Marrow to be the heaviest . The Marrow of a Goat is very offensive , and the Marrow of Lambs or Calves are not good , because they are crude , bloudy , and imperfect for want of age . Brains . The Egyptians thought it a capital offence to eat the Head of any thing , for the Brains-sake , wherein they thought the soul of every living thing to be chiefly placed . And Plutarch saith , that many things were thought delicate in his time , which no man before desired or dared to taste ; as the Brains of Birds and Beasts . How abject a thing Brains were in old time , it appeareth in Ulysses scoffing of Agamemnon , comparing him with a Calves Brain , as with a most abject and vile thing , which all men cast away . And verily Brains for the most part are exceeding phlegmatick , of gross juice , hard passage , slow concoction , great heaviness , and so offensive to the stomack , that being eaten last , or with any fat meat , they trouble the same exceedingly , and procure vomit : wherefore we doe well to eat the brains of Calves , Lambs , Kids , and Pigs , at the beginning of Dinner or Supper , for were they eaten last ( through their unctuous and superfluous moisture ) we should bring up all . Likewise I commend the tosting of Piggs brains at the fire ( being the moistest of all other ) the thorough rosting of Hares brains and Rabbets brains ; and the mingling of sage , salt , pepper , and Vinegar with Calves brains . Concerning the brains of Birds , none are absolutely commendable , but of such fowl as be of a temperate constitution , as Cocks , Chickens , Capons , Pullets , Partridg and Phesant . Also the brains of rosted Woodcocks , and Snites , and Blackbirds , and all small birds are counted wholsom ; but the brains of great birds , and water-fowl , and Pigeons , and all sorts of Wild-doves , are counted by the old and learned Arabians very dangerous : Only Quails brains are commended by Galen , against the falling sickness , and Cranes brains against the Hemorrhoids . Tongues . The Tongues of Beasts seem to be wholly of a fleshy substance : Which if we deny not because it is full of muscles , yet verily the flesh thereof is more spongy and oily then of any flesh besides . Aesop and Thales called Tongues the best and the worst part of the body ; but as an Asses bones make the sweetest Regal-pipes of all others , though the living Asse be least musical ; so let the living Tongues of any Beasts be never so bad , yet they are without comparison the sweetest meat of all others , when they are dead and drest : For the Tongues of Beasts are soft , temperate , light , moist and spongy , never faulty of themselves , but marred oftentimes by miscookery . As for Birds Tongues , they are generally exceeding dry , hard , and gristly ( Parots tongues excepted ) neither could I ever find any cause ( but because a curious and sumptuous fool would have it so ) why Heliogabulus should have pies made of Nightingales Tongues . Chine-Marrow . Pith. Marrow , running all along from the hinder brain ( whereof no doubt it is a portion ) to the end of the back-bone or chine of beasts , is no doubt much harder and drier then the brain it self , especially towards the further end of the back ; which driness makes it less loathsom to the stomack then brains are ; yea furthermore it strengtheneth that body which is able to concoct it . Many are of opinion that Cawdles made strong with the pith of a Steer , and yolks of new-laid eggs , do by a secret property restore nature , and recover the weakness of loyns caused by venery . Montagnana maketh a singular confection of divers marrows to that purpose , which I will not set down in English , lest wantons be too bold to follow their follies . Hearts . Hearts of all living creatures , whilst life endureth , are most active and effectual to many purposes ; but after death there is no part of less use , nor less nourishment . Yea they are harder of digestion then any entrail , concocted with no small difficulty , though chosen from the youngest and tenderest sort of fowls or beasts : Yet if any do overcome them , they give no weak nor bad nourishment . Lungs . Lungs of beasts are softer then the heart , liver , kidneys and spleens ; easier therefore of concoction , though of a more phlegmatick and froathy substancer . Tacuinus commendeth them greatly to young men sick of hot agues , because they both temper their hot and dry disposition , as also for that they be light , and soon concocted . But he saith , that therefore they are ill for strong and labouring men , whom so light a meat cannot sufficiently nourish , but is more likely to putrifie in their stomacks . The Lungs of Foxes are no wholsome meat , but rather medicin to sore lungs . Livers . Livers of all beasts give but gross nourishment , and are hardly concocted , and of slow passage ; unless it be of sucklings , or of young swine fed with pure meat . The Livers of tame fowl , as Hens , Capons , chickens , ducklings and geese , fatted with wholsom and white meat , please the taste , clear the eye-sight , agree with the stomack , and encrease bloud . Cranes Livers sod in the broth of cicers asswage the pain of the back and kidneys , but they are of a small and bad nourishment . The Livers of Larks and Snites are very sweet and restorative , as also of a Woodcock , which hath of all other birds ( for proportion of his body ) the greatest Liver . Tripes . Stomacks , Paunches , and Guts of Beasts , are far harder in substance then their flesh , requiring much time ere they can be concocted , deserving scarce the name of meat , because they give so little nourishment , and so much excrement . Yea all tripes and chitterlings made of elder beasts ( be they oxen , swine , or deer ) though accidentally through sowcing they procure appetite , yet naturally they are foul and unwholsom meat , engendring scabs , itches , and leprosies , and other filthy diseases like themselves . Yet the taste of tripes did seem so delicate to the Romans , that they often killed oxen for the tripes sake , not caring what became of the flesh ; till such time as their licentious appetite was bridled by banishment if any should attempt the like again . But the maws or gyzards of Hens , Capons , Chickens , and Geese especially , are both tender and pulpy , and are supposed extraordinarily to corroborate the stomack . So likewise the guts of Larks , Woodcocks , and Snites , give no bad nourishment , being presently roasted assoon as the birds be taken . Milts . Spleens of beasts give an unpleasant taste and a worse nourishment : and no marvel , for if livers , being the fountains of blood , be of hard and unwholesom juice , how can spleens ( the sinks and spounges of the liver ) prove wholesome meat ? Onely such a hoggs spleen is commended , which hath fed long upon Tamarisk , wherby all gross , soure , and melancholick humours have been consumed in it . Paracelsus is the first that ever commended an Oxes spleen , as available to hasten the courses of women . Kidneys of beasts ( for birds have none , the Bat excepted , which also hath brests and giveth milk ) be of a middle temper betwixt flesh and kernels , of hard concoction and ill juice , especially in the greater sorts of beasts ; alwaies keeping a smack of that which passeth through them , and being too strong for most stomacks ; the kidneys of sucking Lambs , Calves , Piggs , and Kids , are the tenderest and the best , but when they have left sucking they are all too ranck . Kernels and Sweet-breads Kernels of Beasts , especially such as lye about the throat and breast of sucking Calves , Kids and Lambs , are a very good meat being well digested , drawing neer to the nourishment of flesh ; but if they be not well digested , they breed raw and flegmatick humours . Our Countrymen do well first to roast and then to boil the sweet-bread of beasts ; for thereby all superfluous moisture is consumed . Kernels of fowls lye chiefly about the rump on either side thereof , and are ( as many take it ) very restorative . The Matrix . The matrix of beasts , yea of a barren Doe so highly esteemed , is but a sinewy and hard substance , slow of digestion and little nourishment . Eyes . Eyes of young beasts and young birds are not unwholesome , being separated from their skins , fat , balls , and humours ; for then nothing remaineth but a sweet tender and musculous flesh , which is very easie of digestion . Ears , Snouts and Lips. The Ears , Snouts and Lips of beasts being bloudless and of a sinewy nature , are more watrish , viscous , and flegmatick , then that they may be commended for any good or indifferent nourishment . Pinions and Feet . The Pinions of birds , and the feet of beasts are of like disposition ; yet the pinions of geese , hens , capons , and chickens are of good nourishment : and so are the feet of young hogs , pigs , Lambs and Calves ; yea also a tender Cow-heel is counted restorative ; and Heliogabalus the Emperour amongst his most dainty and lustful dishes made Pies of Cocks-combs , Cock-stones , Nightingales tongues , and Camels heels , as Lampridius writeth . Galen also for men sick of agues boil'd Piggs-pettitoes in barly water , whereby each was bettered by the other : the Ptisan making them the more tender , & they makeing the Ptisan more nourishing and agreeable to the stomack . That sodden Geese feet were restorative , Messalinus Cotta by trial found out , if Pliny may be credited . The Tails or Rumps of Beasts are counted by certain unskilful Physitians , yea of Dr. Isaac himself , to be hard of digestion . First , because they are so far distant from the fountain of heat . Secondly because they are most of a sinewy constitution ; to which if a third had been added , that they are but covers of a close-stool , perhaps is arguments would have been of some indifferent weight : For indeed the farther any part is from the heart , it is fed and nourished with the more fine and temperate blood ; also the extremities or ends of sinews are of strong wholesome and good nourishment ; but as for the Tails and Rumps of Beasts , it is indifferently mingled of flesh , sinews and fat ; so that the very Anatomy of them shews them to be a meat agreeable to all stomacks ; and verily whosoever hath eaten of a pye made onely of Mutton Rumps , cannot but confess it a light wholesom and good nourishment . The Rumps of Birds are correspondent , having kernels instead of flesh ; but when they are too fat , they overclog and cloy the stomack . Udders . The Udders of milch beasts ( as Kine , Ewes , Does , and She-goats ) are a laudable taste , and better then Tripes , because they are of a more fleshy nature . Lean Udders must be sod tender in fat broth ; fat Udders may be sod alone ; each of them need first a little corning with salt , being naturally of a flegmatick and moist substance . Stones . The Stones of a Bore work marvails ( saith Pissanellus ) in decayed bodies , stirring up lust through abundance of seed , gathered by superfluous and ranck nourishment . Indeed when Bucks and Stags are ready for the rut , their stones and pisels are taken for the like purpose : as for the stones of young Cocks , Pheasants , Drakes , Partridges , and Sparrows , it were a world to write how highly they are esteemed . Averrhois thinks that the stones of a young Cock , being kept long in good feeding and separated from his Hens , do every day add so much flesh unto our bodies , as the stones themselves are in weight . Avicen as much esteemeth Cock-sparrowes stones , or rather more . But the Paduan Doctors ( but especially Doctor Calves-head ) giveth that faculty to the stones of Pheasants and Partridges above all others . Skin . The Skins of Beasts , yea of a roasted Pig is so far from nourishing , that it can hardly be well digested of a strong stomack . Some Birds are sodden or roasted without their skins , because they are black and bitter ( as Rooks , Dawes , Cootes , and Moor-hens ) and howsoever others are spared , yet the skin of no Bird turneth to nourishment , but rather to ill humours or filthy excrements . Nay the very skin of an egg , of a nut , an almond , a prune , a raisen , or a corrin , and generally of all fruit , is so far from nourishing , that it cometh out of the strongest mans body ( either whole or broken ) as it went in . CHAP. XIIII . Of Milk. FOrasmuch as childrens stomacks , and old mens bodies , and consumed mens natures be so weak , that not onely all flesh and fish , but also the fruits of the earth are burdensome to their tender and weak bowels : God tendring the growing of the one , the preservation of the other , and the restoring of the third , hath therefore appointed Milk ; which the youngest child , the weariest old man , and such as sickness hath consumed may easily digest . If we would define or describe what Milk is , it seemeth to be nothing but white blood , orrather the abundant part of blood , whited in the breasts of such creatures as are ordained by nature to give suck ; appointed properly for children and sucking little ones , but accidentally for all men , sick either of consuming diseases or old age . That womens Milk is fittest for young children , it may easily be proved by the course of nature , which converteth the superfluity of blood in a woman bearing her child within her to the brests , for no other purpose , then that she should nourish her own babe . For truly nothing is so unperfect , defectuous , naked , deformed , and filthy as a man , when he is newly born into the world through a straite and outstreatched passage ; defiled with blood , replenished with corruption , more like to a slain then a living creature , whom no body would vouchsafe to take up and look on , much less to wash , kiss , and embrace it , had not nature inspired an inward love in the mother towards her own , and in such as be the mothers friends . Hence it cometh that mothers yet hot & sweating with travail , trembling still for their many and extream throws , forget not their new-born Babes , but smile upon them in their greatest weakness , heaping labour upon labour , changing the nights trouble with the dayes unquietness ; suffering it to taste no other milk , then that wherewith in their bellies it was maintained . This doth a kind and natural mother ( if she be of a sound and indifferent strong constitution ) for her child ; and thus did Eve , Sara , Rebecca , and Rachel ; yea all women which truely loved their children , and were both able and willing to feed their own . There be many reasons why mothers should be afraid to commit their children to starnge women . First because no Milk can be so natural unto them as their own . Secondly because it is to be feared , lest their children may draw ill qualities from their Nurses both of body and mind , as it fell out in Iupiter , whom whilst his Mother committed to Aega ( Olens daughter and Pans wife ) to be nursed by her , the Country woman living only upon goats milk , could not but be of a strong lascivious nature , which left such an impression in the child , that growing once to the age of a stripling , he was in love with every fair wench , lay with his own Sister , forced his own Neices , left no fair woman unassaulted , if either bygold , or entreaty , or craft , and transforming himself he could obtain her love . Nay when he was full of womens company , he loved boys and abused himself unnaturally in companying with beasts . The like also is recorded of Aegysthus , who being fed in a Shepheards Cottage only with goats Milk , waxed thereupon so goatish and lecherous , that he defiled not onely Agamemnons bed , but also neighed ( in a manner ) at every mans wife . Nevertheless if the Mothers weakness be such that she cannot , or her frowardness such , that she will not nurse her own Child ; then another must be taken sutable to the Childs constitution : for a fine and dainty Child requireth a Nurse like to it self ; and the Child of strong and clownish Parents , must have a Nurse of a strong and clownish Diet. For as Lambs sucking , she-goats bear course wool , and Kids sucking Ewes bear soft hair , so fine Children degenerate by gross womans milk , losing or lesning that excellency of nature , wit , and complexion , which from their Parents they first obtained . Neither is womens Milk best onely for young and tender infants , but also for men and women of riper years , fallen by age or by sickness into compositions . Best I mean in the way of nourishment , for otherwise Asses Milk is best , for some Cowes , Milk and for others Goats milk ; because the one cleanses , the other loosens , and the third strengtheneth more then the rest . Goatsmilk is also better for weak stomacks , because they feed on boughs more then grass . Sheeps-milk is sweeter , thicker and more nourishing , yet less agreeable to the stomack , because it is fatter . Cows-milk is most medicinable , because with us it looseneth the body , though in Arcadia it stayeth the belly , and cureth consumptions better then any other milk . Finally the milk ofany beast chewing the cud ( as Goats , Sheep , and Kine ) is very ill for rhumes , murs , coughes , fevers , headache , stoppings and inflamations of any inward part ; for sore eyes also , and shaking of sinews . Avicen saith , that their Milk is hurtfull to young men , because they are cholerick ; to sore eyes , headaches , agues , and rhumes , because it is full of vapors : to convulsions and cramps , by reason of repletion : to resolution or palsies , by over moistning ; to the stone and obstructions , because the cheesy part of it is very gross . Of Beasts not chewing the Cud Camels milk is the sweetest and thinest of all other ; Mares milk the next , and Asses milk of a middle temper : not so thin , but that it nourisheth much ; nor so thick , as that easily it will curdle . All milk is thinnest in the Spring , and thickest in Sommer , because then the wheyish part is resolved by sweat ; and all meats then obtain a dryer faculty . Signes of the best Milk. There be four wayes in women and beasts to know the most nourishing and substantial milk : namely by the colour , smell , consistence , and taste . For the best milk is of a pearl-colour , neither blue , transparent , nor gray , but white clear and confused ; the consistence of it is neither thin nor thick , hanging like a row of pearls upon ones nail ( if it be milked on it ) not overhastily running of . In taste it is not soure , bitter , salt , sweet , sharp , nor strong , but sweet yet not in excess , and pleasant after an extraordinary kind of pleasantness : yet Galen affirmeth , that if milk could be tasted when it is first concocted in the veins and breasts , it would seem sweeter then hony it self . The smell likewise of it is pure and fragrant , though proper to it self , and void of loathsomness . Causes of good Milk. Also it is much material to the goodness of milk , to have speciall regard to the Diet of those creatures whose milk we use , or chuse for our children . Galen reporteth that a friends child of his , having lost his good Nurse by an untimely death , was put out to another : who in time of dearth being forced to feed chiefly upon fruit , and roots , and Acorne bread , infected her child ( as she her self was infected ) with much grevious and filthy scabs . And I pray you what else is the cause , that many children nursed in the Country are so subject to frets , sharpness of urine and the stone ; but that their Nurses for the most part eat rye bread strong of the leaven , and hard cheese , and drink nothing but muddy and new Ale ? It is also recorded , that a young man sick of a Consumption , used the milk of a goat to his great good , so long as it fed in his own field ; but afterward feeding in another field where store of Scammony grew , and some wild spourge , he fell into a deadly scowring and felt no nourishment . Furthermore care is to be taken of their health , that give us milk ; for as an unclean and pocky nurse ( which woful experience dayly proveth ) infecteth most sound and lively children ; so likewise a clean sound and healthful nurse recovereth a sickly and impotent child . Nay ( which is more ) no man can justly doubt , that a childs mind is answerable to his nurses milk and manners ; for what made Iupiter and Aegystus so lecherous , but that they were chiefly fed with goats milk ? What made Romulus and Polyphemus so cruel , but that they were nursed by She-wolves ? What made Pelias ( Tyrus and Neptunes son ) so bruitish , but that he was nursed by an unhappy mare ? Is it any marvel also , that Giles the Abbot ( as the Saint-register writeth ) continued so long the love of a solitary life in woods and deserts when three years together he suckt a Doe ? What made Dr. Cajus in his last sickness so peevish and so full of frets at Cambridge , when he suckt one woman ( whom I spare to name ) froward of conditions and of bad diet ; and contrariwise so quiet and well , when he suckt another of contrary disposition ? verily the diversity of their milks and conditions , which being contrary one to the other , wrought also in him that sucked them contrary effects . Now having shewed what milk is best , and how to be chosen , let us consider how it is to be taken and used of us . First therefore if any naturally loath it ( as Petrus Aponensis did from the day of his birth ) it cannot possibly give him any good nourishment , but perhaps very much hurt in offending nature . If contrariwise any with Philinus love nothing else , or with the poor Bizonians can get no other meat , or with the Tartarians and Arabians feed most often and willingly on milk : let them all remember these three lessons . How Milk is to be eaten and used , in time of health . First that they drink or eat the milk of no horned beast unsodden , for so will it not easily curdle nor engender wind : but Womens milk , Asses milk , and Mares milk , need no other fire to prepare it , for it will never curdle into any hard substance . Secondly to be sure that milk shall not curdle , season it with salt , suger , or hony , and neither drink any wine or soure thing upon it , nor mingle it with other meats , but eat it upon an empty stomack , and fast an hour after it . Thirdly exercise not presently upon it , neither sleep upon any milk taken from beasts chewing the cud , and when you have eaten it wash your teeth clean , for there is no greater enemy unto them then milk it self , which therefore nature hath chiefly ordained for them , who never had or have lost their teeth . And truely ( as Marcilius Ficinus noteth ) Milk is not to be used of young men , who have sound teeth given them for stronger meat , but of such as either have none at all , or very few and weak ones ; or though they have strong teeth , want ability and strength to set them a grinding as it falleth out in them that are fallen into Fever Hecticks . Wherefore when Poppaea wife to Domitius Nero carried 500 she Asses ( shod with gold ) continually about with her , to bath her body in their milk once a week , and to drink of it every day , to make her skin clear and smooth without wrinckles : she left it rather a monument of her pride , then a memorial of her wisdome ; for nature taught her a better meat , though Art could not appoint her a finer Bath . If she had taken it ( as the Arcadians do Cow-milk ) in the spring time onely , for a month or six weeks together once in the morning , to cleanse and purge the body of bad humours , it had been good and warrantable by physick : but to use it continually in health could not less corrupt her , then Goats milk did my Lady Penruddock , of whose cruel and terrible end , caused by the lest worms of all other , perpetually engendred betwixt the skin and the flesh , through superfluity of nourishment arising from the long continuance of Goats milk ; I will not here reherse , it being fresh enough in their memories that best knew her & most loved her . The like may I say of Cow milk so generally used of us , that being now and then taken of sound men ( not subject nor distempered with hot diseases ) it nourisheth plentifully , encreaseth the brain , fatneth the body , restoreth flesh , asswageth sharpness of urine , giveth the face a lively and good colour , encreaseth lust , keepeth the body soluble , ceaseth extream coughing , and openeth the brest ; as for children and old men they may use it dayly without offence , yea rather for their good and great benefit . What Milk is best in sickness and consumptions . Concerning them that be sick , There are few diseases to which milk is not offensive being inwardly taken , except the Consumptions of the solid parts called Marasmus , the Consumption of flesh , called Atrophia , and the Consumption of the lungs and breathing parts called Phthisis . For recovery of the first , Cammels milk is preferred before all others , because it is most moist and thin . The second sort is best recovered by sucking milk from a womans brest , as most familiar to our livers and blood , needing no preparation ( for it is onely blood discoloured ) but onely application unto the flesh . The chusing of a good Nurse . The Nurse must be young , clear of skin , of a kindly smell , pure complexion , good temperature , wholesom and moderat diet , much sleep , little anger , neither too idle nor too toiling , no wine bibber , no eater of hot spices , no ordinary wanton , and void of all diseases ; such a nurse is sooner wished for then found ; yet such a one is to be chosen either for sound children or sick Persons , lest drawing corruption in so fine a meat as milk is , our consumptions be encreased so much the more , by how much poison given with drink is more dangerous . Asses milk . The third sort of Consumptions , wherein the flesh accidentally decayeth through exulceration of the lungs and breathing parts , is especially to be cured by Asses milk ; for which Cammels milk is unfit , because it is too thin and moist ; as also womans milk , because it wholly nourisheth and nothing cleanseth ; whereas Asses milk is both meat and medicin , cleansing and nourishing alike , not so thin as to hinder expectoration , not so thick as to cause condensation of the matter putrified , but being of a middle temper and consistence , and consequently most proper for that disease . Neither are all Asses of alike goodness ; for a young Asses milk is of the thinnest , an old Asses milk is too thick and dry , but one of a middle age is best for that purpose . Having gotten such a one , every morning ( four or five hours before you use her milk ) shut her from her foal , and curry her well and clean , lest her skin growing scurvy and foul ill vapours be augmented inwardly for want of expiration : then feed her with grinded malt , straw-dryed , mingled with a little sweet fennel seed , aniseed , or carraway seed , which she will eat with great pleasure , and digest into a sweet and wholesome blood : an hour after that , milk her as neer the patient as conveniently you can , that he may drink her milk ere the air hath altered it , for if it be once cold it is never wholesome ; this is to be done twise a day , morning and evening upon an empty stomach , neither eating nor drinking ought after it for two hours ; you may sweeten it also with sugar-candy , sugar of roses , or fine maiden hony , and it will be the more effectual . Assoon as the Ass is milked , turn her and her foal into fine leaze , wherein store of Cowslaps , Trifoil , Cinqfoil , Elecampana , Burnet Filipendula , Meadtansy , Horsetail , Plantain , Lambs-tongue , Seabiouse , and Lung-wort groweth . In winter feed her with the sweetest hay growing in the finest and best meddows If Asses milk cannot be conveniently obtained for the Lung-consumption , nor womens milk for the Liver-consumption before specified , use the milk of a meetly young reddish and sound Cow , feeding in the like leaze or upon the sweetest hay : but beware ( as commonly fools do not ) that you feed them not with new and much less with soure grains ; for it maketh their milk strong , windy , and unwholesome , especially for such as be weak and much consumed ; likewise remember to rub and stroke down your Cow every morning , and her milk will be both sweeter and more nourishing . Thus much of Milk , what it is , how it is made ; for whom and for what diseases it is convenient , how it is to be prepared and used , how many kinds thereof are wholesome for mans body , what milk is fittest for sound men , and what for them that be sick : so there resteth no more but to wonder at Plinies credulity , who as constantly ( upon hear-say ) avoucheth , mares feeding neer the river Astaces in Pontus to give all black Milk ; as Cardan reporteth blew snows to be common near the Straits of Magellane . CHAP. XV. Of Butter , Cream , Curds , Cheess , and Whey . THe milks of horned beasts ( as Cows , Ewes and Goats ) do consist of three substances ; Cream , Curds and Whey . Of Cream . The first ( being compared to the rest ) is hot and unctuous ; the second flegmatick and viscous ; The third of a middle nature . Again there be two sorts of Cream ; one natural called the flour of raw milk , gathered of the milk without fire , after it hath stood in a cold place : the other called the flour or cream of sodden milk , or clouted Cream ; gathered from it after it hath been thickned upon a soft fire . Raw cream how sweet soever it seemeth to wanton stomacks , yet it weakneth concoction , hindereth retention , and is more hard of digestion then any milk . Sodden and boild cream ( such as we use in Tarts , Fools and Custards ) is less offensive to the stomach , and of better nourishment ; yet we do ill in eating it last , when the lightness and unctuosity of it sheweth that it ought to be eaten first . Butter . Butter ( not undeservedly termed the Flemmins Triacle ) is by labouring and churming made of both sorts of cream ; so that as milk is nothing but blood twise concocted , so Butter is nothing but Cream twice laboured . Pliny sheweth the true making of it , which I need not to repeat , because it nothing , or very little differeth from ours : Only I wonder with him , that Africa , and other Barbarous Countreys esteem it a Gentlemans dish , when here and in Holland , and in all the Northern Regions , it is the chief food of the poorer sort . For go from the elevation of 52 to 8● of the North pole , you shall every where find such store of good butter , as no where the like , no not in Parma nor Placentia , nor Holland it self , whence so much Butter and Cheese is dispersed through the whole world . In Iceland they make such a quantity , that having neither earthen Vessels nor Cask enough to keep it in , they make Chests of Firr , thirty or forty foot long , and five foot square , filling them yearly with salt butter , which they bury in the ground till they have occasion to use it . Butter is hot and moist , of gross nourishment , softning rather then corroborating the stomack , hastning meat into the belly before it be concocted , rhumatick , and easily converted into oily fumes , which greatly annoy both throat and head . It is ill for the stomackrhume ▪ and all fluxes either of bloud-humors or seed ; and in truth it is rather to be used as Sawce and Physick , then as meat to feed upon . It is best at breakfast , tollerable in the beginning of dinner ; but at supper no way good , because it hindreth sleep , and sendeth up unpleasant vapours to anoy the brain , according to the old Proverb , Butter is Gold in the morning , Silver at noon , and Lead at night . It is also best for children whilst they are growing , and for old men when they are declining ; but very unwholsom betwixt those two ages , because through the heat of young stomacks , it is forthwith converted into choler . Weak stomacks are to eschue all fat , oily , and buttered meats , especially when they swim in butter ; for naturally butter swimeth aloft , and consequently hindreth the stomacks closing , whereby concoction is foreslowed , and many ill accidents produced to the whole body . The Dutchmen have a by-Verse amongst them to this effect : Eat Butter first , and eat it last , And live till a hundred years be past . And Paracelsus in his Book de Tartaro , thinketh the Netherlanders to be more free of the stone then other Nations , because their chiefest food is butter ; wherein the silly Alchymist was not a little mistaken , for no people in the world are more subject to that disease , as the number and excellency of stone-cutters in that Country may plainly prove . And if butter be less offensive , and more nourishing to them then better meat , it is to be imputed either to a natural affection unto it , infused ( as it were ) with their parents seed , or else to a long custom , which is ( as before I noted ) another nature . And verily their natural love unto that meat of all others , appeareth in this : for that as English people , when the Bride comes from Church , are wont to cast wheat upon her head , and the Grecians to anoint the doore posts with fat la●d ; so when their Brides and Bridegrooms return homeward from Church , one presents them ( as presaging plenty and abundance of all good things ) with a pot of butter , which they esteem the foundation ( though a slippery foundation ) of their lives . The fattest butter is made of sheeps milk , the strongest of goats milk , but the best and most of Cows milk , which caused it of the Grecians to be called Butyros . It were tedious and impertinent to shew how many and necessary uses it hath in Surgery and Physick , considering that here we are only to describe ( as we have done ) what nourishment it giveth , not what it worketh against diseases . Of Curds and Cheese . As there hath mention been made of two sorts of Cream , so now also I must write of two sorts of Curds , the one fresh , without salt or runnet , the other mingled with the one or both : Now if the Butter be at Market when the Curds or Cheese is prest at home , then are they both utterly unwholsom , clamming the stomack , stopping the veins and passages , speedily breeding the stone , and many mischiefs ; but if they be equally mingled with the butterish part , then the Cheese made thereof is wholsom , unless age or ill-housewifery hath made it bad : For new , sweet , and fresh Cheese , nourisheth plentifully ; middle-aged Cheese nourisheth strongly , but old and dry Cheese hurteth dangerously : for it stayeth siege , stoppeth the Liver , engendereth choler , melancholy , and the stone , lieth long in the stomack undigested , procureth thirst , maketh a stinking breath , and a scurvy skin : Whereupon Galen and Isaac have very well noted , That as we may feed liberally of ruin Cheese , and more liberally of fresh Cheese , so we are not to taste any further of old and hard Cheese , then to close up the mouth of our stomacks after meat . Concerning the differences of Cheese in substance : Good Cheese is neither too soft nor too hard , too close , nor yet spongy , too clammy , nor yet crumbling , too salt , nor yet unsavory , too dry , nor yet weeping , pleasantly , not strongly smelling , easily melting in the mouth , and never burning as it is tosted at the fire . Likewise Cheese made of Ews milk is soonest digested , that of Cowes milk is more nourishing , but Cheese made of Goats milk is most nourishing of all , being eaten whilst it is new and soft , for it quickly waxeth dry , earthly , and crumbling . The Western Goths , to prevent the dryness of Cheese , make them so big , that two strong men with leavers can scarce move one of them ; which also causeth the Parmisans to be so big , and also them of Placentia , which Bernardinus Scaccus in his Annals of Trent , preferreth before the Parmisans : But was not that a great Cheese think you , wherewith Zoroaster lived in the Wilderness twenty years together , without any other meat ? or rather was it not most cunningly made or preserved , when at twenty years end it did eat as soft as at the first day ? Which though some do think impossible , yet the Parmisan of Italy will prove it true , by age waxing mellower and softer , and more pleasant of taste , digesting whatsoever went before it , yet it self not heavy of digestion . Our Essex Cheese being well handled , would in my judgement come next unto it , especially if Goats were as plentifull there as sheep , that there might be a proportion betwixt the three milks , without which it is folly to attempt the like . Now whereas the Placentians and Parmians add Asses milk , and Mares milk , and also Camels milk ( when they can get it ) to the making of their Cheese , it is not for the Curds sake ( because they yield no hard Curd ) but for the butterish part that is taken out of them : for indeed the butter made of them is most thin , liquid , moist and penetrating , whereby such a suppleing is procured , that their Cheeses do rather ripen then dry with long lying . The Irish men , like to Plinies Barbarians , have not yet so much wit as to make Cheese of Milk ; and our Welshmen want cunnning to make it well . French Cheese in Plinies time tasted like a medicine ; but now the Angelots of Normandy are counted restorative ; which many of our Gentlewomen ( and especially a Niece of mine own ) have so well counterfeited , that they excell their first pattern . Spain hath forgotten the art of Cheese making ; and Portugal makes them but indifferently well , though sometimes the best in the world were made at Cuna , near to Cape Vincent , where they also made Cheeses of 1000 l. weight apiece . As for our Country Cheeses , Banbury and Cheshire yields the most , and are best ; to which the Holland Cheeses might be justly compared , if their makers could but soberly put in salt . As for Butter milk and Whey , I leave them to my Treatise of drinks , because they are of a thinner substance , than that conveniently and properly they may be numbred and accounted amongst Meats . Now a word or two of Eggs , and then to our variable and no less profitable Discourse of Fishes . CHAP. XVI . Of EGGS and BLOVD . AS the Oonians live only of Eggs and Oatmeal , so the Aegyptians for a great while durst not eat Eggs , because they are unperfect or liquid flesh ; neither did they eat a long time any Milk , because it is but discoloured bloud : Certain Grecians abstained from them , because they resemble a little world ; for the shell of them is like the earth , cold and dry ; the white is like to water , cold and moist ; the fome or froth in the white , resembleth aire , which is warm and moist ; the yolk agreeth with the fire , which is hot and dry . But to omit such frivolous reasons , let us not doubt but an Egg is a lawfull and wholsom meat , tempered so excellently well by nature it self , that it must needs be accounted one of the best nourishments , being eaten white and all ; For they which eat only the yolk ( as many do in a conceit to nourish more plentifully ) fall into many hot and dangerous diseases , unless they have a very cold liver , and watrish bloud . Contrariwise the whites of Eggs are so cold , that spongy wood being thoroughly overlaid with them , will hardly , or not at all be burnt in a glowing fire . Both being taken together , do so qualifie one another , that generally they agree with all stomacks , or at the least offend none , if we chuse them that be best , and prepare them well after they be chosen . Now all Eggs being potential creatures , no doubt but they are of like substance and temper with that which in time they shall be made . Wherefore as the flesh of Pheasants , Partridges , and Hens be of best juice , temper , quality , nourishment and digestion , so likewise their Eggs are wholsomest of all others . Contrariwise , as the Greek Proverb saith , Like Crow , like Egg. Neither can we imagine how any Egg should be wholsom , proceeding from an unwholsom or distempered creature . Wherefore we condemn ( in the way of comparison ) all Eggs of Turkies , Peacocks , Geese , Ducks , and all water-fowl , preferring Hens Eggs before all other , because they are a most usual , familiar , and temperate meat . What kind of Eggs be best . In the choice of good Eggs observe these lessons , First , That they be rather Pullets Eggs then laid by an old Hen. Secondly , That they be not self-begotten , but gotten by the Cock upon the Hen. Thirdly , That they be new , white , and long : For such Eggs nourish plentifully and quickly , clear the voice and breast , strengthen the stomack , recover men out of consumptions , and encrease nature so much , that in continuance of time they make us wantons . They nourish quickly , because they are nothing but liquid flesh : They nourish much , because their heat and moisture is proportionable unto ours : They are wholsomest in the morning , because they are then newest . They are best in winter , because Hens are then fattest , strongest , and best relished ; they are worst in summer , because Hens feed then upon flies , snails , cadlocks , and many ill weeds , which rather scoures then nourishes their bodies : They are best being eaten alone , because being mingled with orher meat , they corrupt in the stomack , filling many mens faces full of pimples , morphues , and freckles . They are ill for young children ( especially being often eaten ) for that their hot bodies turn them into over-hot nourishment , whence itch , scabs , inflammations , and corruptions do arise . They are also as bad for old men , because they are hardly digested of a cold stomack ; fittest they are for temperate young persons , and such as are consumed without any notable fever . Concerning the nature of other Birds Eggs , besides Hens . Epenaetus extolleth Peacocks Eggs before all other , and then the Eggs of Berganders , and lastly of Phesants , Partridges , and Turkies , whose judgement I would have throughly confuted , had not daily experience , and Antonius Gazius his arguments done it already . And verily whosoever will taste other eggs then which daily we use , shall find none void of a strong savour and bad relish , saving the eggs of Phesants , Partridges , Berganders , Ostriches , Turkies , Ducks and Geese , though the three last named be bad enough . Yet if Ducks eggs be hatched under a Hen , they eat more sweetly , and Goose eggs also hatched under them , are thought by Simeon Sethi no unwholsom meat . Pigeons eggs are exceeding hot , and of ill taste , hardly hardning by long seething . The eggs of Sparrows encrease lust , strengthen the heart , and nourish abundantly : As for the eggs of other birds , great and small , howsoever they are eaten ( as Rhasis saith ) in the way of medicine , yet they give either none or no good nourishment . But Hens eggs are so temperate and nourishing , that Galen himself in certain continual fevers , gave them usually to his Patients to restore spirits , : and not without reason , being of so fine a substance , and freed in a manner from all hurtfulness ; for they moisten us in fever Hecticks , they nourish us in consumptions , they strengthen us in fluxes , they bridle sharp humors when they gripe us , restore spirits in weakness of heart , they speedily pass from a clean stomack , neither are they forbidden in a strait and thin diet , did they not nourish oversoon . Gesner sheweth a good reason , why new white and long eggs be the best of all other . First , because new eggs are ever full , but old eggs lose every day somewhat of their substance , and in the end waxing addle stink like urine , whereupon they were called of the Latins Ova urinae . Secondly , the whitest eggs have the palest yolks , and most thin , fine , little bloody strings swiming upon them . Thirdly , the longest eggs are commonly cock-eggs and therefore of better nourishment . Some eggs are almost all yolk and no white , yea some have two yolks in them , others have in a manner no yolk at all , or ( at the most ) nothing proportionable : the former sort nourish most , the other are fittest for hot stomacks . The dressing of Eggs. Concerning the preparation of them , a rare egg any way drest is lightest of digestion , a hard egg is most rebellious , an egg betwixt both is of strongest nourishment . Brassavola reporteth a Monk to have been made so costiff with hard eggs , that no art was available to give him on stool . Furthermore all hard eggs , especially hardened by frying , get from the fire a smoky and hot nature , and from the frying-pan and burnt butter a maligne quality , not onely as offenssive to the stomack as rotten eggs , but also sending up bad vapours to the brain and heart . Eggs potcht into water or verjuce are fittest for hot complexions , or men distempered with agues ; sodden rare in the shell they are soonest converted into blood ; but being rare-roasted in embers they make thickest and strongest blood , and are fittest for weak , cold and watrish stomachs . Thus much of Birds eggs , which in a little quantity nourish much , and are called of Ficinus , the quintescence of flesh ; because they yeild so speedy and fine nourishment . Now it resteth to discourse something of Tortesses eggs , which be not poisonable nor hurtful ( as the eggs of Snakes , Lizards , and Chamaeleons ) but very fit to nourish men in hot agues , when all birds eggs may be suspected of inflaming the blood ; for they are of a more flegmatick nature , tempering hot humours , procuring sleep to the watchful , moisture to the dryed person , and inspiring as it were a second life , to such as seem desperately consumed of hot fevers ▪ Sir Wil. Pelham ( that worthy & valiant Knight ) kept them in his garden at the Minories by the Tower of London , where I wondred much at the beast and more at her eggs : for contrary to the nature of hens eggs , the most spotted were the best , and the hardest of shell the best likewise ; and they are worst when they are newest , best when they are three months old . Last of all , as touching that question made by Plutack , and disputed of him more wittily then wisely of either side , Whether the Hen or the Egg be first in nature , I omit it as a foolish and superfluous doubt , sith common sence and reason telleth us , that the perfecter creatures were first made , and the whole is more ancient then that which is gotten of the whole . Of Blood. Blood being the charet-man or coacher of life , was expresly forbidden the Israelites , though it were but the blood of beasts , partly because they were naturally given to be revengeful and cruel hearted , partly also because no blood is much nourishing out of the body , albeit in the body it is the onely matter of true nourishment : Nevertheless the Laconians black broth , so highly commended of Dionysius , was made of kidds blood sodden with water , vinegar and salt ; yea the Bisalta of Scythia make pottage of horses blood & milk , accounting it their best and strongest meat . Also in Aegira Bulls blood is so far from being poisonable ( as it is in all other places ) that it is held both delicate and restorative ; so likewise is the blood of a Mare that was never covered ; for if she once have taken horse her bloud is dangerous . Drusus the Tribune purposing to accuse Quintus Caepio of giving him poison , drank Goats blood a good while before , whereby he waxed so pale and colourless , that many indeed suspected him to have been poisoned by Caepio : whereby it is manifest , that bloud hath been a very ancient nourishment , and not lately devised by our country pudding writes , or curious sawce makers , as Iason Pratensis and other foolish dietists have imagined . Nay ( which is more ) not onely the blood of beasts hath been given for meat , but also the blood of men and striplings hath been drunk for a restorative ; yea in Rome ( the seat and nurse of all inhumanity ) Physicians did prescribe their patients the blood of Wrestlers , causing them to suck it warm breathing and spinning out of their veins , drawing into their corrupt bodies a sound mans life , and sucking that in with both lips , which a dogg is not suffered to lick with his tongue ; yea they were not ashamed to prescribe them a meat made of mans marrow and infants brains . The Grecians afterwards were as bold and impious as the Romans , tasting of every inward and outward part of mans body , not leaving the nails unprosecuted . But of all other I wonder most at Marsilius Ficinus , a most famous Scholer and accounted for a good Catholick , who hath thus written of the use of mans blood . No doubt ( saith he ) the milk of a young and sound woman is very restorative for old men , but the liquor of mans blood is far better ; which old women-witches knowing to be true , they get young children unto them , and prick or wound them , and suck their blood to preserve their own health and life . And why may not then old men ( I pray you ) for a need , suck likewise the blood of a young man or maid , which is merry , lusty , sound , and willing to spare some of his superfluous blood for another mans life ? wherefore I advise them to suck an ounce or two of blood , fasting , out of the veine of the left arm , at a little orifice , towards the full of the moon , drinking presently upon it some wine and sugar , &c. Which though he protesteth himself to have uttered as a great secret ( though the Prince of Abohaly writ as much before in his Old-mans diet ) and to be as lawful as it is helpful in Physicks practise : yet by his leave I dare again protest and prove the contrary ; for it is unlawful to gaze upon a mans carcase , and is it lawful to eat or drink his blood ? what remedy call you that , which is more savage and abominable then the grief it self ? what law , what reason , nay what conjecture found out this canibals diet ? well , let it proceed from the Americans and Barbarians : nay , from the Grecians , that were counted civil . Let Democritus dream and comment , that some diseases are best cured with anointing the blood of strangers and malefactors , others with the blood of our friends and kinsfolks ; let Miletus cure sore eyes with mens galls ; Artemon the falling sickness with dead mens sculls : Antheus convulsions with pills made of dead mens brains ; Apollonius bad gums with dead mens teeth ; but far be it from any humane or Christian heart ( brag we of this foolish invention never so much ) to suck away one anothers life in the blood of young men , wherein Charles the 9 King of France being but outwardly bathed for his leprosie , died therefore and for other his cruel massacres a most bloody death : wherefore let us content our selves with the blood of geese ▪ swans , hoggs and sheep in our sawce and puddings , which yet are but a gross and fulsome nourishment , unless they meet with a strong and good stomack . CHAP. XVII . Of Fish generally , and the difference thereof . AS amongst Poets there is some called the Coryphaeus , or Captain-poet , so fareth it likewise amongst meats . Some prefering fruit as being most ancient , cleanly , naturall , and needing either none or very little preparation . Others extoll flesh , as most sutable to fleshy creatures , and giving most and best nourishment . But the finest feeders and dainty bellies did not delight in flesh with Hercules , or in fruit with Plato and Arcesilaus , but with Numa and Philocrates in variety of fish ; which Numa made a law , that no fish without scales nor without finns should be eaten of the people , whereupon I may justly collect and gather , that he was not ignorant of Moses law . Also ( according to the vain dream of Gregory the great Bishop of Rome , and the author of the Carthusian order ) he put more holines in fish then in flesh , falsly imagining flesh to be a greater motive to lust and lasciviousness , then the use of fish ; which frivolous conceit is before sufficiently confuted in the seventh Chapter , and needeth not to be shaken again in this place . Now I will not deny , that fish is a wholesome meat , if such fish could be alwaies gotten as may sufficiently nourish the body ; but now a daies it so falleth out through iniquity of times , or want of providence , or that our Sea-coast and Rivers are more barren of fish then heretofore ; that in the Spring time , when we ought to feed on the purest and most wholesome nourishment , our blood is not cleansed but corrupted with filthy fish , I mean saltherrings , red-herrings , sprats , Haberdin , and greenfish : which are not amiss for Sailers and Ploughmen , but yet most hurtful and dangerous for other persons . Gatis Queen of Syria made a Law , that no meal should pass through the year , without fish : which if it were as firmly made and executed in England , no doubt much flesh would be spared , and Navigation and fisher men maintained through the land : neither should we need to imitate Gregory the Lent-maker , perswading men to eat only fish at that time , when it is most out of season , most hardly gotten , and most hurtfull to the bodies of most men . Also in high Germany there is both fish and flesh continually set upon the table , that every mans appetite , humour and complexion , may have that which is fittest for it : in which Country though no Lent be observed ( except of a few Catholicks ) yet is there abundance of flesh , all the year long , restraint being onely made in Spring time of killing that which is young . Differences of Fish in kind . Concerning the kinds of Fishes , Pliny maketh a hundred threescore and seventeen several sorts of them , whereof some being never seen nor known of in our Country , it were but folly to repeat them . As for them which we have and feed on in England , they are either scaled , as Sturgian , salmon , grailings , shuins , carps , breams , base , mullet , barbel , pike , luce , perch , ruffs , herrings , sprats , pilchers , roch , shads , dorry , gudgin , and umbers ; or shell'd , as scallopes , oisters , mustles , cockles , periwinckles ; or crusted over , as crabs , lobsters , crevisses , shrimps ; or neither scalld , shell'd , nor crusted : as Tunny , ling , cod , hake , haberdine , haddock , seal , conger , lampreyes , lamperns , eeles , plaise , turbut , flounder , skate , thorneback , maides , sole , curs , gildpoles , smelts , cuttles , sleeves , pouts , dogfish , poulps , yards , mackrels , troutes , tenches , cooks , whitings , gournards , and rochets : To which also we may add , Sticklebacks and minoes , and spirlings , and anchovaes , because they are also neither scaled , crusted , nor defended with shells . As for the goodness or badness of fish , it is lessened or encreased upon three causes ; the place they live , in the meat they feed on , and their manner of dressing or preparation . Concerning the first , some live in the Sea , some in Rivers , some in Ponds , some in Fenny creeks and meers . Difference of Fish in respect of place . Sea-fish as it is of all other the sweetest , so likewise the least hurtfull ; for albeit they are of a thicker and more fleshy substance , yet their flesh is most light and easie of concoction , insomuch that Zeno and Crato ( two notable Physians in Plutarcks time ) commended them above all other to their sick patients , and not without desert ; for as the Sea-aire is purest of all other , because it is most tossed and purified with winds , so the water thereof is most laboured , and nourisheth for us the wholesomest and lightest meat ; lightest , because continual exercise consumeth the Sea-fishes superfluities ; wholesomest , because the salt water ( like to buck-lye ) washeth away their inward filth and uncleaness . Of Sea fish those are best , which live not in a calm and muddy Sea , tossed neither with tides nor windes ; for there they wax nought for want of exercise ; but they which live in a working Sea , whose next continent is clean , gravelly , sandy , or rocky , running towards the North-east wind , must needs be of a pure and wholesome nourishment , less moist and clammy then the others , easier also of concoction , sooner turn'd into blood , and every way fitter for mans body . This is the cause why the Oritae and Northern-people live as wel with fish alone , as we do here with such variety of flesh ; even I say the goodness , lightness , and wholesomness of their fish , which is not brought unto us till it be either so stincking or salt , that all their goodness is gone or dryed up . River-Fish likewise are most wholesome and light , when they swim in rocky , sandy , or gravel'd Rivers , runing Northward or Eastward , and the higher they swim up , the better they are : Contrariwise , those which abide in slow , short , and muddy Rivers , are not onely of an excremental and corrupt juice , but also of a bad smell and ill taste . Pond-fish is soon fatted through abundance of meat and want of exercise ; but they are nothing so sweet as River-fish , unless they have been kept in some River to scoure themselves , especially when they live in little standing ponds , not fed with continual springs , nor refreshed from some River or Sea with fresh water . Fenny-fish of all other is most slimy , excremental , unsavory , last digested , and soonest corrupted ; having neither free aire , nor sweet water , nor good food to help or better themselves ; such are the fish of that lake in Armenia , where all the fish be black and deadly : and albeit our English meers be not so bad , yet verily their fish is bad enough , especially to stomachs of other Conntries , unacquainted with such muddy and unwholsome meats . Differences of Fish in respect of their feeding . Concerning the meats which fishes feed on ; some feed upon salt and saltish mud ( as neer Leptis in Africa , and in Eubaea , and about Dyrrhachium ) which maketh their flesh as salt as brine , and altogether unwholesome for most stomacks : Others upon bitter weeds and roots , which maketh them as bitter as gall , of which though we have none in our Seas or Rivers , yet in the Island of of Pene and Clazomene they are very common : Also ( if Pliny may be credited ) about Cephalenia , Anipelos , Paros and the Delian rocks , fish are not only of a sweet taste , but also of an aromatical smell : whether it is by eating of sweet roots , or devouring of amber and ambre-grice . Some also feed and fat themselves neer to the common-sewers , sincks , chanels and draughts of great Cities ; whose chiefest meat is either carrion or dung ; whereas indeed the proper meat for fish , is either flies , frogs , grashoppers , young fry and spawne , and chiefly certain wholsom roots , herbs , and weeds , growing in the bottom or sides of Seas and Rivers . Caesar , Crasus , and Curius fed them with livers and flesh ; so also did the Hieropolitans in Venus lake . In Champagny they fed them with bread ; yea Vidius Pollio fed them with his condemned Slaves , to make them the more fat and pleasant in taste . But neither they that are fed with men , nor with garbage or carrion nor with citty-filth , nor with any thing we can devise , are so truely sweet , wholsome , and pleasant , as they which in good Seas and Rivers feed themselves , enjoying both the benefit of fresh aire , agreeable water , and meat cor respondent to their own nature . Difference of Fish in respect of preparation . Concerning their difference of goodness in preparation : I must needs agree with Diocles , who being asked , whether were the better fish , a Pike or a Conger ; That ( said he ) sodden , and this broild ; shewing us thereby , that all flaggy , slimy , and moist fish , ( as Eeles , Congers , Lampreys , Oisters , Cockles , Mustles , and Scallopes ) are best broild , rosted , or bakt ; but all other fish of a firm substance and drier constitution is rather to be sodden , as the most part of fish before named . Last of all , we are to consider what fish we should chiefly choose ; namely the best grown , the fattest , and the newest . How to chuse the best Fish . The best grown , sheweth that it is healthy and hath not been sick , which made Philoxenus the Poet at Dionisius table , to request him to send for Aesculapius Priest to cure the little barbles that were served in at the lower Mess , where he sat . If a fish be fat , it is ever young : if it be new it is ever sweet ; if it be fed in muddy or filthy water , keep it not till the next day , for it soon corrupteth ; but if it be taken out of clean feeding , it will keep the longer . Rules to be observed in the eating of fish . Sodden fish or broild fish , is presently to be eaten hot ; for being kept cold after it but one day ( unless it be covered with wine pickle or vinegar ) it is corrupted by the aire in such sort , that sometimes ( like to poison-full mushroms ) it strangleth the eaters : also fish coming out of a pan is not to be covered with a platter , lest the vapour congeled in the platter drop down again upon the fish ; whereby that fish which might else have nourished : will either cause vomiting or scouring , or else corrupt within the veins . Finally , whosoever intendeth to eat a fish dinner , let him not heat his body first with exercise , least the juice of his meat ( being too soon drawn by the liver ) corrupt the whole mass of blood ; and let no fish be sodden or eaten without salt , pepper , wine , onions , or hot spices ; for all fish ( compared with flesh ) is cold and moist , of little nourishment , engendring watrish and thinn blood . And if any shall think that because Crabs , Skate , Cockles , and Oisters procure lust , therefore they are likewise of great nourishment . The argument is denied ; for though they blow up the body with wine , and make good store of sharp nature , which tickleth and inciteth us to venery ; yet that seed is unfruitful , and that lust wanteth sufficiency , because it cometh not from plenty of natural seed , but from an itching quality of that which is unnatural . Thus much generally of fish , in the way of a Preface ; now let us speak particularly of every fish eaten , or taken by us in this Island . CHAP. XVIII . Of SEA-FISH . SEa-fish , may be called that sort of fish , which chiefly liveth , feedeth , breedeth , and is taken in salt water ; of which I will write according to the letters of the Alphabet , that every man may readily find out the fishes name , whose nature or goodness he desires to know of . Encrasicholi . Anchovaes are but the Sea ▪ minoes of Provence and Sardinia ; which being poudred with salt , wine-vinegar and origanum , and so put up into little barrels , are carried into all Greece , and there esteemed for a most dainty meat . It seemeth that the people of those hot Countries are very often distempered and distasted of their meat ; wherefore to recover their appetite they feed upon Anchovaes , or rather taste one or two of them ; whereby not onely to them , but also to us appetite is restored : I could wish that the old manner of barrelling them up with origanum , salt and and wine-vinegar were observed ; but now they taste onely of salt , and are nothing so pleasant as they were wont to be : They are fittest for stomachs oppressed with fleam , for they will cut , ripen , and digest it , and warm the stomack exceeding well ; they are of little nourishment , but light enough if they were not so over-salted ; they are best drest with oil , vinegar , pepper , and dryed origanum , and they must be freed from their outward skin & the ridge-bone & be washt in wine , before they be laid in the dish . Variatae . Alburni marini . Bleaks of the Sea , or Sea-bleaks , called of Dr Cajus Variatae , or Sea-cameleons ( because they are never of one colour , but change with every light and object , like to changeable silk ) are as sound , firm and wholesome as any Carp ; there be great plenty of them in our Southern Seas , betwixt Rye and Exceter , and they are best sodden , because they are so fine and so firm a meat . Abramides marinae . Breams of the Sea , be of a white and solid substance , good juice , most easie digestion and good nourishment . Piscis Capellanus . Asellus medius . Cod-fish is a great Sea-whiting , called also a Keeling or Melwel ; of a tender flesh but not fully so dry and firm as the Whiting is : Cods have a bladder in them full of eggs or spawne , which the Northern men call the kelk , and esteem it a very dainty meat ; they have also a thick and gluish substance at the end of their stomach called a sowne , more pleasant in eating then good of nourishment ; for the toughest fish-glue is made of that . Of all parts of the fresh Cod , the head , lips , and palate is preferred , being a very light though a slimy meat Pectines . Pectunculi . Cocks and Cockles are commended by Scribonius Largus , for strengthening the stomack . Pliny saith they encrease flesh , but certain it is that they encrease lust ; for they themselves are so hot of nature , that they leap and fly above water like an arrow , in the sommer nights to be cooled by the air , Alexander Benedictus reporteth , that some with eating too many Cockles have become stark fools . Their broth loosneth the body , but their flesh staies it . Galen commends them for a good meat , but dangerous to them that are subject to the stone or falling sickness . The best Cockles keep in sandy seas , which maketh the Purbeck and Selsey Cockles so highly esteemed ; they are best in the month of May , for then are they fullest , lustiest , and cleanest of gravel . To avoid their gravel , keep them in salt water or brine a whole day before you eat them , and if you shift them into fresh water or brine when the tide is comming , they will open themselves , and spue out all their gravel and filthiness . Chuse the greatest and the whitest of them , and of al shell fish , they are best broild in a frying pan , neither are they ill being sod in water with salt , pepper , parsly , dried mints , and cinamon , after the French fashion . Conger . Conger is nothing but a sea-eele of a white sweet and fatty flesh : little Congers are taken in great plenty in the Severn , betwixt Glocester and Tewkesbury , but the great ones keep onely in the salt seas , which are whiter-flesht , and more tender ; they feed ( as eels do ) upon fat waters at the mouths of rivers running into the sea : they are hard of digestion for most stomacks , engendring chollicks if they be eaten cold , & leprosies if they be eaten hot after their seething . Philemon the Comical Poet seeing a Conger seething in a Cooks-shop for divers young Gentlemen , that bespake it to dinner , suddenly snacht away the pan wherein it boiled , and ran away with it , the Gentlemen followed and catcht at him like a number of Chickens ; whom he had crossed , and turned , and mocked for a great while , till having sported himself enough , he flang down pan and all with these words : O humane folly ! how do fooles long for unwholsome meats ? for he thought Conger to be bad enough of its owne nature , but far worse if it were eaten hot out of the pan . In England we do not amiss first to boil it tender in water with salt , time , parsly , baies , and hot herbs , then to lay it covered in vinegar , and then to broil it ; for so is it a meetly good nourishment in Sommer , for hot stomachs . Merula . The Cook-fish , is so called of the seamen , because he so pleasantly tasteth when he is well sod , as though he had seasoned himself with salt and spices . They are very rare , but tender and light of nourishment ; and there is never seen of them past one at once , which caused the Latins to call them Merulas , that is to say the Solitarians or Hermits or Blackbirds of the Sea. Cancri marini . Crabs of the Sea , be of divers sorts ; some smoothcrusted , and some rough-casted as it were , and full of prickles , called Echinometrae : The first sort hath the two formost clawes very big and long , the other wanteth them ; wherefore as they go side wi●e , so these move not themselves but round about like a spiral line : the first sort are also very big , or never growing to be of any reasonable sise . The great ones are called Paguri , whereof some weigh 10 l. weight ; furthermore one sort of the great ones ( which is the best of all ) goeth so fast upon the shore , that the Grecians have termed them Hippeis , or light horsemen . The little sort of Crabs is softer shelld ( called Pinnotheres ) whose weakness is defended with abundance of wit ; for whilst he is little , he hides himself in a little Oister , and when he groweth bigger ( yet is he never so bigg as our common crabb ) he conveyeth himself into a bigger Oister ; of all sea-crabbs this is the lightest and wholesomest , next unto them are our ordinary crabs , but somewhat harder of digestion ; both of them nourish much , and are highly commended , in consumptions of lungs and spittings up of blood , not onely by Dioscorides , Pliny , and Avicen , but also by all writers , especially if Asses milk be drunk with them . As for their manner of preparation , their vents are first to be stopped with a sticks end , and then they are to be sodden in water for such as are costiff , or in wine for them which are loose bellied ; some seeth them in vinegar , water , and salt ; but Galen saith that then they are best , when they are sod in that water out of which they were taken ; the fuller of eggs the better they are , for the female is preferred . Our great sea-crabbs ( either of the smooth or rough kind ) full of a yellowish red and strong pulp , lushish in taste , and bought deerly , are of a very hard digestion , except they light upon a very strong stomach . They also over-heat and enflame the body , whereas contrariwise the lesser sort do cool and moisten it . The broth of all of them consume the stone , and cureth Quartains being drunk every morning fasting they are best in season in the spring and fall , as also at the full of the moon . Cuculi marini . Currs are supposed by Dr Cajus to be all one with our Gurnard ; but it somewhat differeth , being of a very firm , whitish , dry , sound , and wholesome flesh ; they are best sodden with salt , water , mace , nutmegs , parsly and vinegar . Sepiae . vel Lolligines calamariae . Cuttles ( called also sleeves for their shape , and scribes for their incky humour wherewith they are replenished ) are commended by Galen for great nourishers ; their skins be as smooth as any womans , but their flesh as brawny as any ploughmans , therefore I fear me Galen rather commended them upon hear-say , then upon any just cause or true experience ; Apicius , that great Master-cook , makes sawsages of them with lard and other things ; which composition I would not have omitted , if it had been worth the penning . Canis Cetaceus . Dog-fish is strong ▪ hard , and of grose and bad juice : albeit Hippocrates commends it in Pleuresies , and also in the skin-dropsie or Anasarca . The Dorry is very like to a Sea-bream , of most excellent taste , constitution , and nourishment , being either backt , or sodden whilst it is alive in wine , water , salt , vinegar , and pennirial . Mustelae . Eele-powtes are best in April , May and September ; their spawne is counted very hurtful , but their flesh is white , firm , and of good nourishment , and their livers most sweet and delicate : seeth them as you do a Dorry , and then broil them a little to make them easier of digestion , or else boil them as you do Sturgian , and so eat them cold . Rhombi marini . Sea-Flounders are very thick , firm , and yet light of digestion , they are exceeding good for aguish persons being well sod , and for some men , being fried in vinegar and butter . Lucernae . Gilt-heads or Golden-poles , are very little unlike the Gournard , save that it seems about the noddle of the head , as though it were all besprinkled with gold-filings , it is something harder of digestion , as Galen writeth . Cuculi majores . Gurnards are of two sorts , Swart or Reddish ; either of them are within of a white , firm , dry , firm , and wholsome substance ; giving our bodies a competent nourishment , being sodden in white wine-vinegar , salt , mace , and onions , or else being sodden onely in wine and then sowced . Asellus . Islandicus . Haberdine is nothing but an Island Cod , bigger somewhat then ours , and also firmer . Asselluli . Haddocks are little Cods , of light substance , crumbling flesh , and good nourishment in the Sommer time , especially whilst Venison is in season . Aselluli longi . Hakes be of the same nature , resembling a Cod in taste , but a Ling in likeness . Aquila marina . The Sea-Hawke is of hard flesh & slow digestion , as Galen avoucheth from Philotimus mouth ; smelling strong and heavily , not to be eaten without leeks , onions , and garlick Haleces . Herrings are an usual and common meat , coveted as much of the Nobility for variety and wantoness , as used of poor men for want of other provision : it is one of the Cardinal supporters of our holy Lent , and therefore not to be ill spoken of : yet Thomas Cogan ( in his Haven of Health ) saith that by eating of fresh Herring many fall into fevers , and that Red-herring gives as good nourishment to the body , as resty Bacon . And truely I dare avouch , that new bloat-herrings are little better ; and pickeld herrings far worse , though you correct them with never so much vinegar , salt , pepper and oil . As for salt Herring well watred or qualified in warm milk , they taste not ill after they are broild , but yet they give none or a bad nourishment ; saving to Ploughmen , Sailers , Souldiers , Mariners , or labouring persons , to whom gross and heavy meats are most familiar and convenient . Rhinocerotes . Acus . Horne-beaks are ever lean ( as some think ) because they are ever fighting ; yet are they good and tender , whether they be eaten fresh or poudred . Highly be they commended of Alexander Benedictus in the plague time , because they breed no unwholesome or excremental humours . Leucisci marini . Javelings or Sea-darts are plentiful in the Venecian gulf and all the Adriatique Sea ; where having taken the young ones , they salt them and send them to Constantinople in infinite number for Anchovaes ; the greater sort they fry and boil at home , being of a very sweet and soft flesh . Miluus marinus . Keelings differ nothing but in name from Cod. The Sea-Kite , called of Pliny Hirundo volans , the flying Swallow , resembleth much the flying Herrings so plentiful about the West-Indies , which finding not proper meat within the waters , flieth after gnats and muskitoes like a swallow . Sir Francis Drake ( whom thankful posterity will worthily esteem ) did first shew me one of them dead , and I think he was one of the first of our Nation , that did ever eat them ; they are of a good taste , tender flesh , but somewhat aguish after the nature of fresh Herrings . Asellus . Ling perhaps looks for great extolling , being counted the beefe of the Sea , and standing every fish day ( as a cold supporter ) at my Lord Maiors table ; yet is it nothing but a long Cod : whereof the greater sised is called Organe Ling , and the other Codling , because it is no longer then a Cod , and yet hath the taste of Ling : whilst it is new it is called green-fish , when it is salted it is called Ling , perhaps of lying , because the longer it lyeth ( being conveniently turned , and the Peace-straw often shifted wherein it lyeth ) the better it is , waxing in the end as yellow as the gold noble , at which time they are worth a noble a piece . They are taken onely in the far Nothern Seas , where the sweetest and biggest live ; but Codlings are taken in great plenty neer to Bedwell in Northumberland shire . Locustae marinae . Lobsters are of a strong and hard flesh , and hard of concoction ; the belly , clawes and upper parts are most tender , the tail parts tough ; when they are seething their mouth and lower vent should be stopped with towe , lest the liquor being bettered with their juice , they themselves prove flashy and unpleasant in taste . As the River Lobster or Crevisse seemeth ( as Dorion said ) to be made onely for weak stomacks ; so I think these are ordained onely for the stronger sort : for I have known many weak persons venture on them to their great hurt , as contrariwise sound stomacks do well digest them ? Pliny saith , that in the North-west Indian Seas there be Lobsters taken of two yards length ; whereof we have none , or if we had , yet can they not be so wholesome , for the least is tendrest , and the middle sised is best flesht ; as for the great ones they be old and tough , & will cause sorrow enough before they be well concocted . They come into season with the Buck , and go out of season when the Doe comes in ; also in the wane of the moon they are little worth , and best towards and in the full : clove-vinegar and gilly flour-vinegar is their best sawce , and if you butter them after they are well sodden with store of vinegar and pepper , they will give a strong nourishment to an indifferent stomack ; when their spawne lies greatest in their head , then are they in prime ; but when all their spawn is out , then is their spawn good , and they wax bad . Lucij . Luces are properly called Pikes of the Sea ; so rare in Spaine , that they are never seen . But our English Seas , especially which wash the Southern shore , have store of them which are large fat and good . Mr Huzzy of Cookfield sent me once a Luce out of Sussex a yard and a half long , which being presented by me to the Mirror of Chivalry ( the Lord Willoughby of Eresby ) was thought , and truly thought a most dainty fish ; for it eateth more sweet , tender , and crisper then our river Pikes , and may be eaten of aguish persons , weak stomacks , and women in child-bed . Their feed is chiefly upon young fry , and spawnes of fish : and by continual swimming ( whereunto they are forced by beating of the surges ) they become tenderer then our fresh water Pikes , though not so fat . Orbes . Lumps are of two sorts , the one as round almost as a bowle , the other resembling the fillets of a Calfe ; either of them is deformed , shapeless and ugly , so that my Maides once at Ipswich were afraid to touch it , being flayed they resemble a soft and gellied substance , whereupon the Hollanders call them Snot-fishes ; I liked not their substance , taste , nor qualities , for they were ( as they are written of ) a curde , raw , and fleagmatick meat , much like to a Thorne-back half sodden , they are best being boiled and pickled like Sturgian , and so eaten cold . Scombri . Mackrels were in old time in such request , that two gallons of their pickle ( called the pickle of good fellows ) was sold for a thousand pieces of silver ; but time and experience described them to be of a thick , clammy and suffocating substance , offensive to the brain , head , and brest , though pleasant in taste , and acceptable to the stomach : Certain it is that they cause drousiness in the best stomacks , and apoplexies , or palsies , or lethargies , or dulness ( at the least ) of sense and sinews to them that be weak . Tralianus rightly adviseth all persons sick of fleagmatick diseases , and of stoppings , to beware of Mackrels as a most dangerous meat : albeit their liver helpeth the jaundies , being sod in vinegar , and their flesh sod in vinegar cureth the suffocation of the matrix : they are best being sod in wine-vinegar with mints , parsly , rosemary , and time , and if afterwards they be kept in pickle , made of Rhennish wine , ginger , pepper , and dill , they prove a very dainty and no unwholesome meat ; they are worst of all buttered . The French men lay Southernwood upon a gridiron , & them upon the Southernwood , and so broil them both upon the fire , basting them well with wine and butter , and so serve them in with vinegar , pepper and butter , as hot as can be ; by which way no doubt their malignity is much lessened , and their goodness no less encreased . Rajolae . Maides are as little and tender Skates , feeding chiefly upon flesh , livers , and spawne of fish ; whereas other fish bring forth eggs , which are in time converted into their parents shape ; onely Maides Skate and Thorne-back bring forth their young ones without eggs , after the kind of propagation of beasts : they are very nourishing and of good juice , fit for weak stomacks , and such as have through wantoness spoiled themselves and robbed nature . Boil them in wine water and salt , with a sprig of rosemary , and then eat them with vinegar , pepper , and sweet butter . Mugiles marini . Italice Cephalo . Sea-Mullets differ little or nothing in shape from Barbels , saving that they are very little or nothing bearded , and those that have beards , have them onely on the neither lip . There is store of them in the mouth of the river of Usk , and perhaps as many as at Lateran in Province . They are so swift , that they often outswim the lightest Ships ; which argueth them to be of a light and aeireal substance : It is strange what is written of this fish ; namely that it should hurt Venus game ; yea that the very broth of it , or the wine wherein it is sodden should make a man unable to get , and a woman unable to conceive children . Nay furthermore Terpsides avoucheth , that a little of that broth being mingled with hens meat , maketh them barren though never so well trodden of the Cock ; whereupon he saith , The Poets have consecrated the Sea-Mullets to Diana , as being the procurer and preserver of chastity ; which if it be true ( as I can hardly think it is ) then farewell Paracelsus his cabalistical conclusion , or rather the follies of Avicen and many Arabians , which give the stones , brains , and combs , of most lascivious birds ( as Cocks , Phesants , Partridges , Drakes and Sparrows ) to stir up lust and encrease seed : for the Sea-Mullet is so lascivious , that a thousand Females swim after one Male as soon as they have spawned , and the Males likewise strive as much if they have not choice of Females ; yea whereas in a manner all kind of fish , spawne but once a year ; they come ( like to swine among beasts ) thrice a year at the least ; yet are they ( as men say , and as many have written since ) abaters of courage , extinguishers of seed , and charmes as it were against conception : Nevertheless sith their flesh is wholesome , white , sweet , and tender , and they feed clean and good , I dare boldly aver them to be much nourishing ; being first well sodden in wine , salt , and water , and then either sowced like a Gurnard , or kept in gelly like a Tench , or eaten hot with vinegar and pepper . Of the eggs and blood of this fish mixed with salt ( which must not be omitted in this discourse ) is also made that which the Italians call Botargo , from the Greek words 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or salted eggs . Mityli . Chamae . Mussels were never in credit , but amongst the poorer sort ; till lately the lilly white Mussel was found out about Romers-wall , as we sail betwixt Flushing and Bergen-●p-Zon , where indeed in the heat of Sommer , they are commonly and much eaten without any offence to the head , liver or stomach ; yea my self ( whom once twenty Mussels had almost poisoned at Cambridg , and who have seen sharp , filthy , and cruel diseases follow the eating of English Mussels ) did fill my self with those Mussels of the Low Country , being never a whit distempered with my bold adventure . Dr Wotton saith that the least Mussels be ever best , because they are whitest softest , and soonest digested , but the great ones give a stronger and larger nourishment ; the red ones are very dangerous , yellow ones are suspected , but the white ones are wholesome and much commended , save unto hot and distempered stomacks : they are best sodden in the water out of which they were taken , which being not obtained , seeth them in water and salt , and a little strong Ale and Vinegar : broild Mussels encrease heat and draught ; fryed Mussels do easily corrupt in our bodies , and turn to a bad juice . If they be kept in the like pickle , as lately is devised by Serjeant Goodrons to keep Oisters in ( made of sea water , wine , vinegar , bayleaves , mints , pepper , ginger , and cinamon ) I durst warrant them as wholesome , and questionless more pleasant then the Oister . As for horse-mussels they deserve not the remembrance , sith neither experience , custome , nor reason approveth them a wholesome meat ; nay as Pliny saith , Salem virusque refipiunt ; they taste brackish and strong , having a hidden poison within their flesh ; yet have I seen them ordinarily sold in Venice , which maketh me think that some Sea and River may have wholesome ones of that kind , though ours be neither wholesome nor pleasant of taste . They are exceeding bigg in Spaine and the West Indies ; but the greatest that ever I read of , is that which Juba recordeth in his volumes writen to Cajus ( Augustus son ) being as big in compass as three pecks . Monachae . Nunfishes were not seen in England till Sir Francis Drake and Mr Caundish brought them ( no man knows out of what Seas ) cleaving to the keels of their happy Vessels . It is a kind of shell-fish , not winding like a Periwinckle , nor opening his shell ( as Oisters , Mussels , and Cockles do ) but creeping out of his craggy cabine , like a sea-snail , but that ( as I said ) his hole goeth strait inward and windeth not : the face of it is very white , the head is covered as it were with a black vail , like the Nuns of Saint Bridgets order , whereof I suppose it took the name . It feedeth upon sweet mud sticking upon Ships sides whilst they lye at Anchor , and is as wholesome and delicate a meat as any Periwinckle . Ostreae . Oisters do justly deserve a full treatice , being so common , and whithall so wholesome a meat ; they differ in colour , substance , and bigness ; but the best are thick , little and round sheld , not sli ppery nor flaggy through abundance of a gellied humour , but short , firm , and thick of flesh , riseing up round like a womans breast , being in a manner all belly , and no fins ; or at the most having very short fins , of a green colour , and listed about as with a purple haire , which will make them indeed to be justly called Calliblephara , that is to say , The fair eye lidded Oisters ; such are our Walfleet and Colchester Oisters ; whose good rellish , substance , and wholesomeness , far exceedeth the Oisters of Vsk , Pool , Southampton , Whitstable , Rye , or any other Port or Haven in England . Thus much concerning the body of Oisters , now somewhat concerning their bigness ; Alexander with his ( Friends and Physitians wondred to find Oisters in the Indian seas a foot long . And in Plinies time they marvelled at an Oister , which might be divided into three morsels , calling it therefore Tridacnon by a peculiar name : but I dare and do truly affirm , that at my eldest Brothers marriage , at Aldham hall in Essex , I did see a Pelden Oister divided into eight good morsels , whose shell was nothing less then that of Alexanders ; but as the Greek Proverb saith , Goodness is not tied to greatness , but greatness to goodness ; wherefore sith the little round Oisters be commonly best rellished , and less fulsome , let them be of the greatest account , especially to be eaten raw , which of all other is thought to be the best way . Galen saith that they are somewhat heavy of digestion , and engender fleagm ; but as he knew not the goodness of English beefe ( when he condemned the use of all Ox-flesh ) so had he tryed the goodness of our Oisters , which Pliny maketh the second best of the world , no doubt he would have given Oisters a better censure . That they are wholesome and to be desired of every man , this may be no small reason , that ( almost ) every man loves them , Item whereas no flesh or other fish is or can be dangerless being eaten raw , raw Oisters are never offensive to any indifferent stomack . Nay furthermore they settle a wayward appetite and confirm a weak stomack , and give good nourishment to decayed members , either through their owne goodness , or that they are so much desired . Finally if they were an ill and heavy meat , why were they appointed to be eaten first ? which is no new custome brought in by some late Physitian : for one asking Dromeas ( who lived long before Athenaeus and Macrobius time ) whether he liked best , the Feast of Athens or Chalcis ? I like , said he , the Athenians Prologue better then the Chalcidians , for they began their feasts with Oisters , and these with hony ▪ cakes : which argueth them to have been ever held for a meat of light digestion , else had they not alwaies been eaten in the first place . It is great pitty of the loss of Asellius the Sabins book written Dialogue-wise betwixt the Fig-finch , the Thrush and the Oisters , wherein upon just grounds he so preferred them before the Birds , that Tiberius Caesar rewarded him with a thousand pound Sterling . The fattest Oisters are taken in salt water at the mouth of Rivers , but the wholesomest and lightest are in the main upon shelfs and rocks ; which also procure urine and stools , and are helps to cure the chollick and dropsy , if they be eaten raw , for sodden Oisters bind the belly , stop urine , and encrease the collick . How dangerous it is to drink small drink upon Oisters it appeareth by Andronicus the elder , who having made a great Dinner of Oisters , drank cold water upon them , whereupon he died , being not able to overcome them . And truly as Oisters do hardly corrupt of themselves ; so if cold drink follow them they concoct as hardly : wherefore ( especially having eaten many ) drink either wine or some strong and hot beer after them , for fear of a mischiefe . Little Oisters are best raw , great Oisters should be stued with wine , onions , pepper , and butter , or roasted with vinegar , pepper , and butter , or bak't with onions , pepper , andbutter , or pickled with white-wine-vinegar , their owne water , bayes , mints , and hot spices ; for of all wayes they are worst sod , unless you seeth them in that sea water from whence they were brought . All Oisters are dangeours whilst they be full of milk , which commonly is betwixt May and August . Raw Oisters are best in cold weather , when the stomach is hottest , namely from September to April : albeit the Italians dare not venture on a raw Oister at any time , but broil them in the shell with their water , the juice of an orenge , pepper , and oil ; which way I must needs confess it eates daintily . Pickled Oisters may be eaten at all times , and to my taste and judgement they are more commendable , chiefly to cold , weak , windy , distasted stomachs , then any way else prepared . I wonder whether it be true or no which I have heard of , and Pliny seemeth also to affirm , That Oisters may be kept all the year long covered in snow , and so be eaten in Sommer as cold as can be ; which if it prove answerable to the likelihood I conceive of it , I will cry out with Pliny in the same Chapter , Quanti quanti es ▪ luxuria , quae summa montium & maris ima commisces ? How great and powerful is riot , which maketh the highest covering of mountains , and the lowest creatures of the seas to meet together ? Yet it is recorded that Apicius the Roman , kept Oisters so long sweet ( were it in snow , pickle , or brine ) that he sent them from thence sweet and good to the Emperour Trajan , warring against the Parthians . Cochleae marinae . Perwinckles or Whelks , are nothing but sea-snails , feeding upon the finest mud of the shore and the best weeds ; they are very nourishing and restorative , being sod at the sea-side in their own sea water : the whitest flesht are ever best & tenderest , & they which are taken in clean creeks eat pleasant , but they which are gathered upon muddy shores eat very strongly and offend the eyesight . They are best in winter and in the spring : for a stomack and liver resolved as it were and disposessed of strength . Apicius warneth us to pick away the covering of their holes , for it is a most unwholesome thing , being nothing but a collection of all their slime hardned with seething . The best way to prepare them for sound persons is to seeth them in their owne sea-water , or else in river water with salt and vinegar ; But for weak and consumed persons Apicius willeth them ( in the Book and Chapter aforesaid ) to be thus drest ; take first the skin from their holes , and lay them for a day or two covered in salt and milk ; the third day lay them onely in new milk , then seeth them in milk till they be dead , or fry them in a pan with butter and salt . Passeres . Plaise ( called the sea-sparrows , because they are brown above and white beneath ) are of good , wholesome and fine nourishment . Arnoldus de villa nova writeth thus of them . Of all sea-fish Rochets and Gurnards are to be preferred ; for their flesh is firm , and their substance purest of all other . Next unto them Plaise and Soles are to be numbred , being eaten in time ; for if either of them be once stale , there is no flesh more carrion-like nor more ●roublesome to the belly of man : the best Plaise have blackest spots , as the best flounders reddest , & the thicker , is most commended , and such as are taken upon the Eastern cost , as Rye , Sandwich , and Dover ; could we have store at all times of such wholesome fish , at any reasonable rate , Jackalent would be a cock-horse all the year long , and butchers meat would go a begging . Alausae minores . Pilchers differ not only in age ( as some dream ) but even in substance and form from Herrings ; for their flesh is firmer and fuller , and their body rounder , neither are they of so aguish an operation ; they are best broild , having lien a day in salt , and eaten with butter salt , & pepper . Porci marini . Porpesses , Tursions , or sea-hogs , are of the nature of swine , never good till they be fat , contrary to the disposion of Tunnies , whose flesh is ever best when they are leanest ; it is an unsavory meat , engendring many superfluous humours , augmenting fleagm , and troubling no less an indifferent stomach , then they trouble the water against a tempest ; yet many Ladies and Gentlemen love it exceedingly , bak't like venison ; yea I knew a great Gentle-woman ( in Warwick lane ) once send for a pasty of it given from a Courtier ) when the prisoners of Newgate had refused the fellow of it out of the Beggers basket . Thus like lips like lettice , and that which is most mens bane , may be fittest to delight and nourish others . Pol●pi . Poulps are hard of digestion , naught howsoever they be drest , as Platina thinketh . But sith Hyppocrates commendeth them to women in childbed ▪ I dare not absolutely diswade the eating of them ; especially sith Diphilus , Paulus , Aegineta , and Aetius commend them likewise , saying that they nourish much , and excessively provoke lust . Indeed if any would eat a live pulp , to anger others and to kill himself , as Diogenes did ( though some say that he died of a raw cow-heel , others that he stiffeld himself in his cloke ) no doubt he shall find it a dangerous morsel ; but being well sodden in salt water and wine , and sweet herbs , it is as dainty and far more wholesomer then a Mackrel . Anates marini . Puffins , whom I may call the feathered fishes , are accounted even by the holy fatherhood of Cardinals to be no flesh but rather fish ; whose Catholique censure I will not here oppugne , though I have just reason for it , because I will not encrease the Popes Coffers ; which no doubt would be filled , if every Puffin eater bought a pardon , upon true and certain knowledge that a Puffin were flesh : albeit perhaps if his Holiness would say , that a shoulder of Muton were fish ; they either would not or could not think it flesh . Aranei marini . Quawiners ( for so the Scots and Northen English term them ) are very subtile and crafty fishes , but utterly unwholesome for indifferent stomachs , though the poorer sort of the Orcadians eat them for hunger . Rubelliones . Rochets ( or rather Rougets , because they are so red ) differ from Gurnards and Curs , in that they are redder by a great deal , and also lesser ; they are of the like flesh and goodness yet better fryed with onions , butter , and vinegar , then sodden ; because they are so little , that seething would soke out their best nourishing substance . Pectines veneris . Scallopes are called Venus Cockles , either because she was borne in one of them , or because she loved them above all other meat . Pliny extolleth the Scallops of Alexandria in Egypt , but now the most and best be in Spaine by Compostella , whether many lecherous men and women resort , to eat Scallops fot the kindling of lust and encrease of nature , under the name of a Pilgrimage to Saint James his shrine : The whitest are best , and least hot , all of them encrease lust , provoke much urine , and nourish strongly . Selsey and Purbeck have gotten them credit for them and for Cockles , above all the Costs of England ; they are best being broild with their owne water , vinegar , pepper , and butter , but sodden they are held to be unwholesome Phocae . Seales flesh is counted as hard of digestion , as it is gross of substance , especially being old ; wherefore I leave it to Mariners and Sailers , for whose stomachs it is fittest , and who know the best way how to prepare it Triches . Clupeae . Shads have a tender and pleasant flesh , but in some months they are so full of bones , that the danger in eating them lessneth the pleasure ; they nourish plentifully , especially the Severn shad , which in my judgement is void of that viscous humour , whereby other shads ( no less then Mackrels ) enforce sleepiness to the eater . They are best in May , June , and July , for then they are full of flesh and freest of bones . Squillae . Shrimps are of two sorts ; the one crookbacked , the other straitbacked : the first sort is called of Frenchmen Caramots de la sante healthful shrimps ; because they recover ▪ sick and consumed persons ; of all other they are most nimble , witty , and skipping , and of best juice . Shrimps were of great request amongst the Romans , and brought in as a principal dish in Venus feasts . The best way of preparing them for healthful persons , is to boil them in sea or salt water , with a little vinegar ; but for sick and consumed bodies dress them after this sort : first wash them clean in barly water , then unscale them whilst they are alive , and seeth them in chicken broth ; so are they as much ( or rather more ) restorative as the best crabs and crevisses most highly commended by Physitians . Futhermore they are unscaled , to vent the windiness which is in them , being sodden with their scales , whereof lust and disposition to venery might arise , but no better nor sounder nourishment . There is a great kind of Shrimps , which are called Prawnes in English , and Crangones by Rondeletius , highly prized in hectick fevers and consumptions ; but the crook-backt Shrimp far suprasseth them for that purpose , as being of a sweeter taste and more temperate constitution . Squatina . Skate is skin'd like a File , of the same nature with a Thorneback , but pleasanter , more tender , and more available to stir up letchery ; it is so neer a Thorneback in shape , that they often couple and engender together . Lingulacae Soleae . Soles or Tongue fishes , are counted the Partridges of the sea , and the fittest meat of all other for sick folks ; for they are of a good smell , a pleasant taste , neither of too hard nor too soft a flesh , engendring neither too thick nor too thin blood ; of easie concoction , leaving none or few excrements after they be digested . Platina fried them ( as we do ) with persly , butter , and verjuce , and sawced them with butter and juce of orenges ; but for sick persons they are best sodden in water , butter , and verjuce with a little falt ; it is a fish impatient of winter , and therefore then it lurketh in deep holes , but in summer it sporteth it self abroad , and offereth it self to be seen when it is most seasonable . Chalcides . Sprats need no description , being one of Jack-a-lents principle pages : They smell well being new and fresh , resembling therein the river-smelt ; but their flesh is quezy , corruptible , and aguish , especially if they light on a weak stomach ; they are worst being smoked or fried , indifferent sodden , and best broild . Chalcides majores . Spurlings are but broad Sprats , taken chiefly upon our Northern coast ; which being drest and pickled as Anchovaes be in Provence , rather surpass them then come behind them in taste and goodness . Were English men as industrious as I could wish , we should sel them deerer to the French and Italians , then their Anchovaes are sold to us ; for I have seen some prepared by Dr. Turner , which far exceeded theirs : but strange things are ever best liked , according to that saying of Galen , Peregrina , quae ignorant , magis celebrant mortales , quàm quod nativum est , quodque esse praeclarum nôrunt . Mortal men ( saith he ) do more extoll forreign things , albeit they know them not ; then home ▪ bred and familiar things , though they know them to be excellent . Apuae infumatae . As for Red Sprats and Spurlings , I vonchsafe them not the name of any wholesome nourishment , or rather of no nourishment at all ; commending them for nothing but that they are bawdes to enforce appetite , and serve well the poor mans turn to quench hunger . Asellus aridus Stockfish whilst is is unbeaten is called Buckhorne , because it is so tough ; when it is beaten upon the stock , it is termed stockfish . Rondelitius calleth the first Merlucium , and Stock-fish Moluam , it may be Salpa Plinij , for that is a great fish , and made tender by age and beating . Erasmus thinketh it to be called Stockfish , because it nourisheth no more then a dryed stock : wherefore howsoever it be sod , buter'd , fried or baked , and made both toothsomer and delectable by good and chargeable cookery ; yet a stone will be a stone , and an ape an ape , howsoever the one be set up for a Saint , and the other apparelled like a Judge . The Stilliard Merchants lay it twenty four hours in strong lye , and then as long again in warm waters ; afterwards they boil it in abundance of butter , and so serve it in with pepper , and salt , which way ( if any way ) it is most nourishing , because it is made not onely tender , but also more moist and warm : Now let us stay longer upon the Sturgian , esteemed sometime the Monarch of all sea-fish . Acipenser . Sturgian is thought of Mr. Cogan to be a fish of hard substance , not much better ( in his judgement ) then Bacon or Brawne , although for the rareness it be esteemed of great Estates ; which I will not deny to be true in old and resty Sturgian ; but young Sturgian is so far of from being tough or unwholesome , that of all other fish it is and was ever most preferred : Severus and his followers did so esteem it ( though Trajan for an in borne hatred could not abide it ) that whensoever any great feast was kept , the chiefe Gentleman of his Court carried up the Sturgian , all gilded over with gold , and attended with minstrelsy and carolling , as though a solemn Pageant or Saints shrine were to be carried about the City . Galen likewise and Tully affirm it to be of a sweet delicate and good nourishment . Cordan compareth it with Veal , but indeed it is far sweeter : Sturgians livers are so exceeding sweet , that at Hamborough they rub them over with the broken gall , lest the stomach should be cloyed with over swetness . The great and full grown Sturgians are better then the less , and the Male then the Female ; and they which suck and lye at the mouths of Rivers , are counted sweeter then they which are taken in the main sea ; it feeds not ( as other fish do ) upon flies , worms , fish-spawne or roots , but sucketh like a Lamprey ( because it hath no teeth ) of such sweet morsels or offall as happily it findeth . One thing is admirable in this fish , that albeit clean contrary to other fishes the scales turn toward the head ; yet against the side and stream it swimeth fasteth ▪ Physicians forbid all Sturgian ( especially the head and fore-rand ) to aguish persons and such as be lately recovered of agues ; because they are so fat and oily , that their stomachs will convert them into choler . At Danske and Hamborough ( whence we have the best ) sometimes they are roasted , being stickt full of cloves ; but then the belly onely is toothsome , which eateth like Veal , or rather better , if such sawce be made unto it as we use to roasted Venison . Otherwhiles they are broild and basted with oil and vinegar , having been first a little corned with salt ; but if Sturgian be well sod , and then kept in convenient pickle , of all other preparations it is the chiefest , being eaten with vinegar and sweet fennel . They are first sod in two parts of water , one of white wine , and one of white wine vinegar , with sufficient salt , verveine and dill , as long as one would seeth a legg of Veal ; then being cold , they are divided into jouls and rands , and put up into barrels or kegs , with store of Rhenish wine , wine ▪ vinegar , and seawater ; wherein having lain half a year , they become a light , toothsome and singular good meat , to an indifferent and temperate stomach . As for Cavialie , or their eggs being poudred , let Turks , Grecians , Venetians , and Spaniards , celebrate them never so much , yet the Italian Proverb will ever be true . Chi mangia di Caviale , Mangia moschi merdi & salae . He that eateth of Cavialies ▪ Eateth falt , dung , and flies . I commend the flesh of Sturgian chiefly to hot and distasted stomachs , to young men , and especially in Sommer ; at which time ( eaten with gilly-flour vinegar ) it slaketh thirst , sharpneth appetite , setleth the stomach , delayeth heat , and giveth both a temperate and a sound nourishment . Xiphij . Sword-fishes are much whiter and pleasanter in taste then Tunny ; but as hard of digestion , and therefore unworthy any longer discourse . Raja . Thornback , which Charles Chester merily and not unfitly calleth Neptunes beard , was extolled by Antiphanes in Athenaeus history for a dainty fish ; indeed it is of a pleasant taste , but of a stronger smell then Skate , over-moist to nourish much , but not so much as to hinder lust , which it mightily encreaseth . Albertus thinks it as hard to be concocted as any beefe ; whose judgement I suspect , sith Hippocrates permits it in long Consumptions : Assuredly if not the flesh , yet the liver is marvelous sweet and of great nourishment , which the very taste and consistence thereof will sufficiently demonstrate . Thorneback is good sodden , especially the liver of it , though Dorion the Musitian said , That a sodden Thornback is like a piece of sodden Cloth ; but the flesh is best broiled after it hath been sodden ▪ to consume the watrishness . Thynni . Tunies are best when they are leanest ; namely , towards the Fall and the dead of Winter . When they are at the best , their flesh is unsavoury enough , cloying an indifferent stomach , and engendering most gross and superfluous moistures . As Porpesses must be baked while they are new , so Tunny is never good till it have been long pouldred with salt , vinegar , coriander , and hot spices . No Tunny lives past two years , waxing so fat that their bellies break : at which time more gain is made of their fat , by making Train-oyl for Clothiers , then good by their flesh ; which is only good , ( if good at all ) for Spanish and Italian Mariners . Rhombi . Turbuts , which some call the Sea-Pheasant , were in old time counted so good and delicate , that this Proverb grew upon them , Nihil ad Rhombum ; that is to say , What is all this in comparison of a Turbutt . Verily , whilst they be young , ( at which time they are called Butts ) their flesh is moist , tender , white , and pleasant ; afterwards they are harder to be digested , though more crumbling to feel to : and as their prickles wax longer , so their flesh waxeth tougher . They are best being sodden as you seeth Thornback ; or rather as you seeth a grown Plaise . Balaenae . Whales flesh is the hardest of all other , and unusuall to be eaten of our Countrymen , no not when they are very young and tenderest ; yet the livers of Whales , Sturgians , and Dolphins smell like violets , taste most pleasantly being salted , and give competent nourishment as Cardan writeth . Onisci . Albulae . Molliculae . Whitings had never staid so long in the Court of England ( where they are never wanting upon a fish day ) unless they had done some notable service , and still deserved their entertainment ; the best Whitings are taken in Tweede , called Merlings , of like shape and vertue with ours , but far bigger ; all Physitians allow them for a light , wholesome and good meat , not denying them to sick persons , and highly commending them to such as be in health ; they are good sodden with salt and time , and their livers are very restorative , yea more then of other fishes : they are also good broild , and dried after the manner of Stockfish into little Buckhorne ; but then they are fitter ( as Stockfish is ) to dry up moistures in a rhumatick stomach , then to nourish the body . Colybdaenae . Yards or shamefishes ( so called because they resemble the yard of a man ) are by Galens judgement as agreeable to weak stomachs , as Crabs , Shrimps , & Crevisses . Gesner in his book of fishes , saith that the French men call this fish the Asses-prick , and Dr Wotton termeth it grosly the Pintle fish . How shameful a name so ever it beareth , it needs not be ashamed of his vertues ; for it nourisheth much , is light of concoction , and encreaseth nature . Yellow heads or Giltpoles are before spoken of , next before Gurnards . And thus much of Sea fish ; now fresh water fish challenge their due remembrance , of which we will treat in the next Chapter . CHAP. XIX . Of Fresh water Fish . Apium . ALderlings are a kind of fish betwixt a Trout and a Grayling , scaled ( as the Trout is not ) but not so great scaled as the Grailing is ; It lyeth ever in a deep water , under some old and great alder , his flesh being sod smelleth like to wild parsly , whereupon I guess it had his Latin name , and is of indifferent good nourishment , and provoketh urine . Barbellio . Barbels are counted nothing but bearded-mullets ; It is most likely that this is the fish dedicated to Diana the Goddess of chastity ; for it is a very cold , moist and gellied fish , hurting the sinews , quenching lust , and greatly troubling both head and belly , if it be usually and much eaten of ; some eat it hot after it is sodden in wine vinegar , time , and savory ( which is a good way to correct it ) others eat it cold laid in gelly , which onely agreeth with hot and aguish stomachs in Summer time ; assuredly the eggs or spawne of Barbels is very sharp , griping and corrosive , driving many into bloody fluxes that have eaten them fasting . Abramides . Breams seem no other then flat Carps ; yet whiter of flesh , and finer nourishment . There is a kind of Bream called Scarus ruminas , which we call a Cudbream , because his lips are ever wagging like a Cow chawing the cud : this of all other is the lightest , sweetest , and best fish of the River , fitter for weak and sick persons then such as be in health , because it is so fine . A very good way how to dress most part of scaled fishes . Prepare it after this sort , set on a good quantity of white strong vinegar ▪ and stale Ale , with a cursey of salt , a little mints , origanum , parsly and rosemary ; and when your liquor boileth fast upon the fire , stop the mouth of your Bream with a nutmeg thrust downe into his throat , and cast him in skipping into the liquor keeping him downe till he be thorow dead and perfectly sodden : dress Pikes , Roches , Carps , Grailings , Mullets , and all great fish of the River in the like sort ; for it will make them to eat pleasant , crisp , brittle , and firm , not watrish and flaggy , as most fish do , because we know not how to use and order them . Alburni . Bleyes or Bleaks are soft flesht , but never fat ; fitter to feed Pikes then to nourish men ; in the heat of Sommer they are troubled with a worme in their stomach , which makes them so mad and frantick , that rowing upon the Thames you shall have three or four in an evening leap into your boat : A waterman once opened one , and found a little worm in it , not unlike to them which grow in oxens skins ( wherewith they are often enraged ) but far less ; they are counted a tender , but never any wholesome meat ; because they are so subject to frensy and giddiness . Cyprini . Carpiones . Carps are of a sweet taste , and much good nourishment , in which respects they were dedicated to Venus , discommended for nothing , but that they will not last long ; wherefore they are forthwith to be drest , because ( through lightness of their substance ) they will soon corrupt . The Portugals suppose that Carps feed upon gold , because nothing almost is found in their bellies , but a yellow glistering sand ; which opinion is also encreased , in that they lye onely at the bottome of waters : The River Carp is most wholesome ; if the ground of that River be gravel or clean sand ; otherwise take them out of gravelly ponds fed with springs , and fatted with convenient meat ; where they will not onely encrease mightily in number and bigness , but also get a very pleasant taste and a wholesome nature : The middle sised Carp is ever best , agreeing with all times , ages and complexions . The Tongue is the most nourishing part of all , but the spawne is heavy and unwholesome howsoever it be drest . The head of a Carp , the tail of a Pike , and the Belly of a Bream are most esteemed , for their tenderness , shortness , and well rellishing . Some bake a Carp with spice , fruit , and butter ; but in my judgment being sodden like a Bream , it is of as good a taste and better nourishment . A red Cavialie is made of their spawne in Italy ; much eaten and desired of the Iewes , for that they dare not eat of the Cavialie of Sturgians , Seales , and Tunny , because they are onely to feed upon scaled fish , and such as carry fins : above all things see that your Carps stink not of mud nor fenny filth ; for they cannot then be wholesome for mans body . Locustellae . Astaci . Carabi . Crevisses and Shrimps were appointed by God saith Dorion ( as Athenaeus writeth ) for quezy stomachs , and give also a kind of exercise for such as be weak : for head and brest must first be divided from their bodies ; then each of them must be dis scaled , and clean picked with much pidling ; then the long gut lying along the back of the Crevisse is to be voided . Lastly , the small clawes are to be broken , wherein lyeth part of the best meat . Crevisses feed upon fish , water-herbs , and sweet clay ; but most gladly upon the livers of young beasts ; before we are to use them , it were good to diet them in a cistern with crumbs of white bread for three or four dayes together , so will they be cleans`d of all impurities , and give a more strong and fine nourishment . They should be sodden in the water whence they were taken with a little salt ; and never kept above a day after , for they will soon smell and putrifie : we do foolishly to eat them last , being a fine temperate and nourishing meat . They are best from the Spring until Autumn , and at the full of the Moon they are most commendable . The Females likewise are better then the Males , which a wise man will soon discern : for consumed persons they are first to be washed in barly water , and then to be sodden in milk ( being first dis-caled ) till they be tender ; according as before I wrote of Shrimps . Leucisci . Daces , or Darts , or Dares be of a sweet taste , a soft flesh and good nourishment , either sod or broild ; or pickled like Anchovaes after the Italian manner . Anguillae . Eeles have so sweet a flesh , that they and Lampreyes were dedicated to that filthy Goddess Gula or gluttony ; yet withall it is so unwholesome , that some Zoilus or Momus would have accused nature , for putting so sweet a taste into so dangerous a meat : for Eeles ( as Hippocrates writeth ) live most willingly in muddy places : and in his Epidemiques he rehearseth many mischiefs to have happened to divers through eating of Eeles ; they give much nourishment , but very corruptible : they loosen the belly , but bring fluxes , they open the wind-pipes , but stop the liver ; they clear the voice , but infect the lungs ; they encrease seed , but yet no good seed : finally they bring agues , hurt the stomach and kidneys , engender gravel , cause the strangury , sharpen the gout , and fill us full of many diseases ; they are worst in Sommer , but never wholesom : the elder ones are least hurtful and if any be harmless it is the silver-bellied and the sandy Eele . Arnoldus de villa nova , saith that no Eele is free from a venemous malignity and a kind of gluish suffocating juice . But Jovius reporteth that some Eeles are engendred in a little River by Cremona , less a great deal , then our little griggs , hurtful in no disease , but of a pure wholesome and good nourishment ; which I will believe because so grave a Chronicler reporteth it : otherwise I should think ill with Hippocrates of all Eeles , even of those little ones as well as the Eeles in Ganges , which are thirty foot long , as Pliny writeth : Verily when Eeles only sink to the bottom , and all other fishes float after they are dead , it cannot but argue them to be of a muddy nature , little participating of that a●ereal substance which moveth and lightneth other fishes . Again sith like an Owle it never comes abroad to feed but in the night time ; it argueth a melancholick disposition in it self , and a likelihood to beget the like in us . Great Eeles are best roasted and broild , because their maligne humour lieth more next under the skin then in their flesh , which is corrected or evapourated by the fire . Next of all they are best poudred and sowced , and baked with butter , salt , and pepper ; but worst being sodden in water , ale , and yeast , as commonly they are ; for the yeast addeth one maglinnity to another , and doth more hurt then I can express to the stomach , liver , and blood . Rhombi fluviatiles . Flounders if they be thick and well grown are a most wholesome and light meat , being sod with water and verjuice , or fried with vinegar and butter ; but the little Flounders called Dabs as they are little esteemed of , so their watrish and flaggy flesh doth justly deserve it . Thymi . Grailings called both of Greeks and Latins Thymi , because their flesh smelleth like thime when they be in season , are a white , firm , and yet a tender meat , tasting no worse then it smels , and nourishing plentifully . Seeth it in such sort , as was described in our Treatise before of dressing Breams , and you will find few fishes comparable unto it ; of all scaled fishes they only want a gall , which perhaps is the cause of their greater excellency . Gobiones . Gudgins are of two sorts , one whiter and very little , the other bigger and blackish ; both are as wholesome as a Perch ; but if any be found yellowish , they are dry , lean and unseasonable . Galen commendeth their flesh exceedingly , not onely because it is short and pleasant in taste , being fat and friable ; but also for that it is soon concocted , nourisheth much , and encreaseth good blood . They are best which lye about rocky and gravelly places , for fenny and lake Gudgeons be not wholesome . Paganelli . Rondeletius in his book of fishes , mentioneth two Sea Gudgins called Paganelli of a far greater length and bigness then ours are of , which our Western fishermen call by the name of Sea-cobs : they sometimes come up the River of Vske , where they are taken and brought to Exceter , and accounted ( as they are indeed ) a most sound , light , wholesom , and nourishing meat . Capitones . Gulls , Guffs , Pulches , Chevins , and Millers thombs are a kind of jolt-headed Gudgins , very sweet , tender , and wholesome , especially when they be with spawne ; for their eggs are many and fat , giving good nourishment ; and though their flesh be hard in Albertus judgment , yet it never putrifieth , and is well digested . Funduli . Groundlings are also a kind of Gudgins never lying from the ground , freckled as it were on each side with seven or eight spots ; they are seasonable in March , April , and May : the best lye lowest , and feed finest , sucking upon gravel ; but they which lye neer to great Cities , feed upon filth and delight in the dead carcasses of men and beasts , therefore called of the Germans Leijtessers . All sorts of Gudgins be wholesom either sod or fried , agreeing with all constitutions of body , sicknesses and ages . Pungitij . Spinachiae . Hackles or Sticklebacks are supposed to come of the seed of fishes spilt or miscarrying in the water ; some think they engender of their own accord , from mud or rain putrified in ponds : howsoever it is they are nought and unwholesome , sufficient to quench poor mens hunger , but not to nourish either rich or poor . Iacks or young Pickrels shall be described hereafter , when we speak of the nature of Pikes . Kobs or Sea-gudgins ( taken yet in fresh water ) are before spoken of in the discourse of Gudgions . Lampretae . Muraenae . Lampreys and Lamprons , differ in bigness only and in goodness ; they are both a very sweet and nourishing meat , encreasing much lust through superfluous nourishment ; were they as wholesome as sweet , I would not much discommend Lucius Mutaena and the Nobles of England for so much coveting after them : but how ill they are even for strong stomachs , and how easily a man may surfet on them ; not onely the death of King Henry the first , but also of many brave men and Captains may sufficiently demonstrate . Pliny avoucheth that they engender with the land Snake : but sith they engender and have eggs at all times of the year , I see no reason for it . Aristotle saith , that another long fish like a Lamprey called Myrus is the Sire ; which Licinius Macer oppugneth , affirming constantly that he hath found Lampreys upon the land engendring with Serpents , and that Fisher-men counterfetting the Serpents hiss , can call them out of the water and take them at pleasure . They are best ( if ever good ) in March and April ; for then are they so fat , that they have in a manner no back bone at all : towards Summer they wax harder , and then have they a manifest bone , but their flesh is consumed : Seeth or bake them thoroughly , for otherwise they are of hard and very dangerous digestion . Old men , gowty men , and aguish persons , and whosoever is troubled in the sinews or sinewy parts , should shun the eating of them no less , then as if they were Serpents indeed . The Italians dress them after this sort ; first they beat them on the tail with a wand ( where their life is thought to lye ) till they be almost dead , then they gagg their mouth with a whole Nutmeg , and stop every oilet-hole with a clove , afterwards they cast them into oil and malmsie boiling together , casting in after them some crumbs of bread , a few almonds blancht and minced ; whereby their malignity is corrected and their flesh bettered . Cajus Hercius was the first that ever hem'd them in ponds , where they multiplied and prospered in such sort , that at Caesar the Dictators triumphall suppers , he gave him six thousand Lampreys for each supper ; he fed them with the liver , and blood of beasts : but Vidius Pollio ( a Roman Knight , and one of Augustus minions ) fed his Lampreys with his slaves carcasses ; not because beasts were not sufficient to feed them , but that he took a pleasure to see a thousand Lampreys sucking altogether like horse-leeches upon one man. Concerning our English preparation of them , a certain friend of mine gave me this Receit of bakeing and dressing Lampreys ; namely first to pouder them ( after parboiling ) with salt , time , origanum , then either to broil them as Spitchcocks , or to bake them with wine ▪ pepper , nutmegs , mace , cloves , ginger and good store of butter . The little ones called Lamprons are best broild , but the great ones called Lampreys are best baked . Of all our English Lampreys , the Severn-dweller is most worthily commended , for it is whiter , purer , sweeter , and fatter , and of less malignity then any other . Lochae . Loches , meat ( as the Greek word importeth ) for women in child-bed , are very light and of excellent nourishment ; they have a flesh like liver , and a red spleen , which are most delicate in taste , and as wholesome in operation . Apuae Cobitae , Gesneri . Aliniatae Caij . Phoxini Bellonij . Minoes , so called either for their littleness , or ( as Dr. Cajus imagined ) because their fins be of so lively a red , as if they were died with the true Cinnabre-lake called Minium : They are less then Loches , feeding upon nothing , but licking one another . Gesner thinks them to engender of the wast seed of Gudgins ; others that they engender of themselves out of unknown matter ; yet certain it is that they are ever full of spawn , which should argue a natural copulation of them with some littlefish or other : they are a most delicate and light meat ( their gall being warily voided without breaking ) either fried or sodden . Mulli . Mullets of the River be of like goodness with the Sea-Mullets , though not fully of so fine and pure substance . Philoxenus the Poet , supping at the lower mess in Dionisius Court ; took suddenly a little leane Mullet out of the dish ▪ and set his ear to the mouth of it ; whereat Dionysius laughing , and asking him what newes ? marry ( quoth he ) he tells me of some strange newes in the River , whereof none ( as he saith ) can more fully enform me then yonder great Mullet in the upper dish : so for his pleasant jest he got the greater ; and withall gives us to note , that unless a Mullet be large and fat , it is but a frivolous dish , making a great shew on the Table , but little nourishing ; how they are best to be drest , is already specified when I wrote of Breams . Vetulae Olaffes , or rather Old wives ( because of their mumping and soure countenance ) are as dainty and wholesome of substance , as they are large in body ; it was my chance to buy one about Putny , as I came from Mr. Secretary Walsingham his house about ten years since : which I caused to be boild with salt , wine , and vinegar ; and a little thime ; and I protest that I never did eat a more white firm , dainty and wholesome fish . Percae . Perches are a most wholesome fish , firm , tender , white , and nourishing . Ausonius calleth them delicias mensae the delight of feasts , preferring them before Pikes , Roches , Mullets , and all other fish , Eobanus Hessus in his poetical Dietary , termeth them the River-partridges . Diocles the Physitian writ a just volumn in the praise of Perches , and Hippocrates and Galen most highly extoll them . They are ever in season , save in March and April , when they spawne . As the oldest and greatest Eele is ever best , so contrariwise the middle Perch and Pike is ever most wholesome . Seeth them in wine-vinegar , water , and salt ; and then either ▪ eat them hot , or cover them in wine-vinegar to be eaten cold : for so they both cool a distempered feverous stomach , and give also much nourishment to a weak body . Lupi . Pikes or River-wolves are greatly commended by Gesner and divers learned Authors for a wholesom meat , permitted , yea enjoined to sick persons and women in child bed ; yet verily to speak like a Lawyer , I cannot perceive quo warranto ; for if fenney or muddy-rivered fishes be unwholesome , the Pike is not so good as Authors make him , living most naturally and willingly in such places where he may fat himself with froggs and filth . Futhermore when a Pike is big and full grown , is not his flesh rather to be counted hard , then firm ; indeed I will not deny but a Pike of a middle sise , fed in gravelly ponds with fresh livers of beasts , sodden crisp in wine-vinegar and sweet-herbs , is of no bad nourishment for any man , but fittest for hot chollerick stomachs and young persons . Macrobius writeth , that the best Pike is taken in a clear River betwixt two bridges ; but I never saw them fat in any clear River , and therefore I suspect their goodness . Certain it is that old great Pikes are very hard , tough , and ill to digest : young ones ( called Jacks ) are contrariwise to watrish and moist . Chuse therefore one of a middle growth ▪ for it is most likely to nourish us best . The Germans having split them along the back , thrust their tails into their mouths , and then fry them a little with sweet butter , then they take them out of the frying pan , and boil them ( as long as one would seeth an egg ) with wine , water , vinegar , and salt , gallopping on the fire , and last of all having sprinckled it over with the powder of cloves , cinamon and ginger , they serve it to the Table . Rutili . Roches , or Roch fishes ( called so of Saint Roch that Legendary Aesculapius and giver of health ) are esteemed and thought uncapable of any disease , according to the old Proverb , As sound as a Roch. Hence have men collected , that the flesh of them is light , sound , and wholesome ; which verily is not to be denied , being sodden like a Bream : they are full of bones , which maketh them the less regarded , though wisemen know well enough , that roses are roses , albeit their tree be dangerous and full of thornes . Cernuae Aspredines . Ruffs or Ruggels are not much unlike to Perches , for the goodness of their flesh , though their skin be rougher : the best live in sandy places , where they wax exceeding fat and sweet ; dress them as you do perches : some take them for the Base ; and verily by Gesners description they disagree as much as nothing . Salmones . Salmons are of a fatty , tender , short , and sweet flesh , quickly filling the stomach and soon glutting . Gesner commendeth them that go fardest up into fresh Rivers , accounting them worst which are taken nearest the Sea ; which I find to be true in the difference betwixt the Salmons of upper Severn ( betwixt Shrewsbury and Beaudly ) and the Salmons taken betwixt Glocester and Bristowe . Nevertheless if they go too high up the River , they wax leaner for want of sufficient nourishment , as manifestly appeareth ( which I my self have seen ) in the Salmon of the Rhine taken at Ringfielden beyond Basel , and at Oppenheim above the City of Ments . Salmons come in and go out with the Buck ; for towards Winter they wax kipper , full of kernels under their throate like a measeld hogg , and lose both their redness of flesh , and also the pleasure of tast which else it giveth : they are to be sodden wholly in wine , or wholly in water ; for if they be sodden in both , they prove tough and unpleasant : it is best to seeth them in wine vinegar and salt , or else parboile them onely in water , being cut into certain pieces , and having stickt those pieces full of cloves , broil them upon a gridiron , and bast them with butter , and serve them in with sawce made of vinegar , cinamon and sugar . Some have pickled Salmon as Sturgian is used , and find it to be as dainty , and no less wholesom ; but salt Salmon loseth a double goodness , the one of a good taste , the other of a good nourishment . Hot Salmon is counted unwholesome in England , and suspected as a leprous meat , without all reason ; for if it be sodden in wine , and afterwards well spiced , there is no danger of any such accident . As for Salmon peales ( which indeed are nothing but Sea ▪ Trouts ) howsoever they be highly commended of the Western and Welch people ; yet are they never enough commended , being a more light , wholesom , and well tasted meat then the Salmon it self . Salmunculi . Shuins , seem unto me akind of Salmon , whereof plenty is taken in the River running by Cardiff castle : but it surpasseth the Salmon as much in goodness , as it is surpassed by him in length and greatness ; boil it in wine vinegar salt , and sweet herbs , and you shall find it a delicate and wholesome fish . Violaceae . Epelani Rondeletij . Smellts are so called , because they smell so sweet ; yea if you draw them , and then dry them in a shadowy place , ( being seasonably taken ) they still retain a smell as it were of violets . Their flesh is of the finest , lightest , softest , and best juce of all other fish ; their excellency is in winter , and whensoever they are full of spawne . Western smelts have the greatest commendation for their greatness and goodness . Void the gall cleanly , and then use the livers , guts , bellies , and fat for great restoratives . The best are taken by Kew and Brainford within eight miles of London , and at Westchester . Seeth them in hot boiling water and salt , and take them out as soon as they are sodden ; for lying long in the water they will wax flaggy : their sawce is butter and verjuce mingled with a little gross pepper ; but if you fry them in butter , eat them with the juice of civil-orenges ; for that is their best sawce . Truttae . Trouts are so great in Northumberland , that they seem thicker then Salmons , and are therefore called Bull-trouts ; there are especially two sorts of them , Red-trouts resembling little fresh-water Salmons , and therefore termed Salmon-trouts ; and Gray-trouts or Skurffs , which keep not in the chanel of Bournes or Rivers , but lurk like the Alderlings under the roots of great Alders ; they are both a very pleasant and good meat for sound persons : but they are fouly mistaken ▪ which prefer them in agues before Perches , ( whose flesh is tender , friable , light , of good juice , and speedy concoction ) when they are in no one thing comparable unto them : they are best being sodden like a Bream and eaten hot , for being eaten cold they lose much of their grace and more of their goodness . Tincae . Tenches are naturally such friends to Pikes , that pitty it is they should be separated ; yet sith I have followed the order of the Alphabet , I could not but divide them in name though they agree in nature . Old writers hardly vouchsafe to mention them , because they were onely esteemed as beggers meat ; the very feeling and smell of them , shew , that a Tench is but a muddy and slimy fish . Albertus living 1252 years after Christ , was the first that ever wrote of the nature of the Tench . His flesh is stopping , slimy , viscous , and very unwholesome ; and ( as Alexander Benedictus writeth ) of a most unclean and damnable nourishment . Antonius Gazius saith , that a fried Tench is a secret poison : and I remember that Dr. Cajus ( whose learning I reverence ) was wont to call Tenches good plaisters , but bad nourishers . For indeed being outwardly laid to the soles of ones feet , they oftentimes draw away the ague ; but inwardly taken they engender palsies , stop the lungs , putrifie in the stomach , and bring a man that much eats them to infinite diseases ; they are very hard of digestion , burdensome to the stomach , encreasing slimy nourishment , and breeding palsies , and appoplexies in the head : From May to November they are very dangerous ; afterwards , hot cholerick and labouring men may be refreshed by them , but none else : they are worst being fried , best being kept in gelly , made strong of wine and spices . Umbrae . Umbers have a dry and whitish flesh , like the flesh of gray-trouts , being of the like substance , quality and goodness , and needing no other preparation . The belly of it is preferred before the other parts , and is wholesomest in the Dog ▪ daies . Pisanellus saith that it is called Umbra in Latin , because it swimmeth in the river like a shaddow ; and he commendeth it exceedingly for young and hot stomacks , as that also it is soon concocted and encreaseth seed . CHAP. XX. Of such living Creatures and Meats , as be neither Flesh nor Fish , and yet give good nourishment to the body . Cochelae terrestres . SNails are little esteemed of us in England , but in Barbarie , Spaine , and Italy they are eaten as a most dainty , wholesome , nourishing , and restoring meat . Let us beware when , and in what sort , we use them ; for they are naught whilst they feed , but towards winter having scoured themselves from all excrements , and batled themselves fat with sleep , then are they wholesomest : also if they feed in woods or in gardens full of Physick-hearbs , they are strong both of smell and taste and dangerous to eat of . They desire of all other herbs to feed of deffadills and asphodils ; but then they are not so good , as those that feed upon other herbs and fruits , but especially upon Dew-berries . In Cales and Spain they feed chiefly upon orenge flouers , which makes them very pleasant in eating . In the Islands of Majorca and Minorca , they never come out of their caves , but live by sucking one anothers shell , hanging together like a gluster of grapes ; which no doubt are of a purer substance then ours , that suck and feed upon all herbs . Fulvius Hilpinus not long before the civil war betwixt Caesar and Pompey , made in his garden several snail-parks ( as I may call them ) keeping every kind by themselves ; there might one find the white snails of Reate , the gray and great snails of Illyricum ; the fruitful snails of Africa , and the Solitan snails , most famous and excellent of all others : which he suffered not to feed upon what they listed , but made certain papp with sweet wine , hony , and flour , whereby they were fed so fat , and became so wholsome , sweet , and delicate , that they were highly esteemed , being sold every dishfull for Fourscore Quadrants . But sith no man is in hope to gain so much by that Occupation , they which must needs use them , may chuse them in this sort : First , let them choose them of middle size , feeding all Sommer time in hilly places upon wholesome Herbs . Secondly , let them not eat them till September be past , for by that time they are thoroughly purged of all Excrements . Also , they are unfit for weak , cold and moist Complexions , because they themselves are cold in the first degree , and moist in the second . They are best for hot stomacks , cholerick constitutions , thirsty distemperatures , watchfull brains , and men troubled with Ulcers of the lungs , and free from all stoppings and inflammations of the Kidneys . Pliny wills them to be first parboyl'd in warm Water with sweet Herbs , and then to be broyld upon the Coles , and to be eaten ever in an odd number : but if you dress them as Apicius appoints Periwinckles to be drest ( which I before described in the Treatise of Periwinckles ) they will prove a light , wholsome and good nourishment . Testudines . Tortisses are likewise no usuall Meat amongst us : yet because I see no reason but that Riot may bring them in , and make them as familiar unto us as Turkies are , I will write something of their choice , use , hurtfulness , correction and degrees of Temperature . Choose ever the greatest , fullest of Eggs , liveliest eyed , and fatted at home with the best meat . Their flesh nourishes plentifully , and recovers men out of Consumptions . Yet is it slowly digested of weak stomacks , engendering thick and phlegmatick blood , and making the eaters sleepy and sloathfull . Wherefore seeth him thoroughly in many Waters with sweet Herbs and hot Spices ; especially for that it is no less cold then Snailes , and fully as moist , agreeing only at such times of the year , and for such kinde of persons as Snails be thought convenient for . Ramae . Frogs are of hard concoction , troublesome to the stomack , breeding much phlegme , and giving no sound yea rather a bad juice : Yet Water frogs are best , of the bigger sort , and both bred and taken in a dry season . Their hinder parts and Livers ( which be two in each ) are the best to be eaten ; and being throughly sodd in oyle , salt-water and Vinegar , and eaten with sawce made of sweet Herbs , Onions and Scallions , they are no bad meat for cholerick young men , though for old and phlegmatick persons they be wholly unprofitable . They are moist in the first degree , and cold in the second , and therefore to be corrected with hot and drying simples . Mel : Honey and Bread was a great Meat with Pythagoras and his Scholars , and counted a sufficient food for a temperate life . For Bread strengthens the body , and Hony both nourishes much , and also cleanseth away superfluities , Pollio Romulus being asked by Augustus the Emperor , how he lived so long ! By nourishing ( saith he ) my inwards with Honey , and my outward parts with oyle . The like answer likewise made Democritus , being demanded the like question . Furthermore , it is so generall a Meat thorough all Russia , that the Children eat it on their bread every morning , as ours do Butter to their breakfast : with whom , and with Old men , it agreeth exceeding well , clensing their breasts , opening their pipes , warming their stomachs , resisting putrifaction , procuring solubleness and urine , and engendring sweet and commendable blood : but young men ( whose moisture is less then childrens through sharpness of heat , and whose stomachs are hotter then old mens ) by much eating of hony inflame their blood , encrease choler , bloody fluxes , wind , and obstructions , together with a continual loathing of meat and a disposition to vomit : hony-cakes were wont to be a great dish in old times at the end of bankets , as ginger-bread is with us ; which custome Macrobius and Gellius have justly reproved ; because sweet things being last eaten , open the mouth of the stomach , which after meat should be closed , and as it were sealed up to help concoction : Wherefore Pisanellus doth very well , in prescribing us to eat sugar-rosat or some soure fruits after hony , to prevent the engendring of choler in the stomach , and to help the same whilst it concocteth . Raw hony is never good , therefore clarifie it throughly at the fire ; and chuse the whitest ▪ purest , clearest , most glistering and thickest , for they are notes of the best hony : also let it be hony that ran and was never pressed out of the combs , and of young Bees rather then old , feeding upon thime , rosemary , flowers , and such sweet and wholesome herbs . Then may you boldly give it as meat to young children , to cold and moist complexions , and to rhumatick old men , especially in Northern Countries , and cold climates , and in the winter season . CHAP. XXI . Of Fruit and the differences thereof . NOw we are come to the last course , which in ancient and more healthful ages was the first and onely , whilst mens hands were neither polluted with the blood of Beasts , nor smelt of the most unwholesome sent of fish . This kind of meat is commended ( like the Hebrew tongue ) for three principal reasons ; antiquity , purity , and sufficiency ; for it was more ancient then either flesh or fish by two thousand years ; it is so pure of it self that it never defiles the hand nor needeth any great dressing : and that it is sufficient to maintain us long in life , not onely the history of the first twelve Patriarches , but also whole nations living at this day in India , Africa , Asia , and some parts of Europe do sufficiently declare , feeding wholly or principally of fruit ; whereof I find three chief or especial kinds , namely Orchard-fruit growing upon trees : Garden-fruit growing upon shrubs , herbs and roots : and Field-fruit concluded under the name of Graine . CHAP. XXII . Of all Orchard Fruit. Pruna . Armeniaca chrysomela . ABricocks are plums dissembled under a peaches coat , good only and commendable for their tast and fragrant smell , their flesh quickly corrupting and degenerating into choler and wheyish excrements , engendring pestilent agues , stopping the liver and spleen , breeding ill juice , and giving either none or very weak nourishment ; yet are they medicinable and wholesome for some persons , for they provoke urine , quench thirst : and sirup made of the infusion of dried Abricocks , qualifies the burning heat and rage of fevers : They are least hurtful to the stomach , and most comfortable to the brain and heart , which be sweet kerneld , big and fragrant , growing behind a Kitchin-chimny ( as they do at Barn-elms ) and so thoroughly ripened by the Sun , that they will easily part from their stone . They are best before meat , and fittest for hot stomachs ; but let not women eat many of them and let them also remember to drown them well in Sack or Canary wine . Galen preferreth Abricocks before Peaches , because they are not so soon corrupted : whereas common experience sheweth the contrary ; for as Abricocks are soonest ripe , so of all other stone fruit they soonest corrupt in a mans stomach . Amigdalae . Almonds ( into whom fair Phyllis was turned , as Poets imagine ) are of two sorts , sweet and bitter . These are fittest for medicin , but the sweet ones for meat . The sweet almonds are sometimes eaten green of women with child to procure appetite ; and in Summer of others , because then they are most pleasant : but they nourish most after the fall when they are fully ripe , being blanched into cold water ; they fatten the body , give plentiful nourishment , encrease flesh and seed , help the brain and eyesight , purge the brest by spitting , clear the voice , clense the kidneys , and provoke sleep ; eat them not when they are very old and wrinckled , for then they stay long in the stomach and breed headache : if they be eaten with sugar ( as they are in march-paens , or in cullices , mortises , rice ▪ porredge , or almond milks ) they are of greater nourishment and more easie digestion ; but then they are to be eaten alone , not in the middle ( and much less in the end ) of Meals . Mala. Apples be so divers of form and substance , that it were infinite to describe them all ; some consist more of aire then water , as your Puffs called mala pulmonea ; others more of water then wind , as your Costards and Pome-waters , called Hydrotica : Others being first graffed upon a Mulbery stock wax thorough red , as our Queen-apples , called by Ruellius , Rubelliana , and Claudiana by Pliny . Roundlings are called mala Sceptiana of Sceptius ; and Winter-goldlings , Scandiana Plinij ; Pippins mala Petisia ; Peare-apples , Melapia ; and Pear-mains or Peauxans no doubt be those Applana mala , which Appius graffed upon a Quince , smelling sweetly , and tasting a little tart , continuing in his goodness a year or two . To be short , all Apples may be sorted into three kinds , Sweet , Soure , and Unsavory . Sweet Apples moisten the belly , open the brest , ripen rhumes , ease the cough , quench thirst , help spitting , cure melancholly , comfort the heart and head ( especially if they be fragrant and odoriferous ) and also give a laudable nourishment . Soure Appels stay the belly , hinder spitting straiten the brest , gripe and hurt the stomach , encrease phlegm , and weaken memory . Unsavory Apples are unfit for our eating , appointed rather to fat Hoggs and Swine , then to come into our stomachs . Old Apples are best ( if they be such as can bear age ) because by long lying they lose two ill quallities , Watrishness and Windiness , and have also a more perfect and pleasing taste . As Nuts , Figs , and Mulberies be best towards the lowest boughes , so contrariwise Plums , Apples , and Pears be best from the top of the Tree , and hanging on the sunny side . Sweet Apples are to be eaten at the beginning of meat , but soure and tart Apples at the latter end . All Apples are worst raw , and best baked or preserved . None at all are good sodden besides the Codlin ; which afterwards being made into tart stuff , and baked with rose-water and sugar , is no bad meat : their coldnese and watrishness is soon corrected , either in baking , roasting , or preserving with cinamon , ginger , orenge-pills , aniseed , caraway-seed , sweet fennel-seed , and sweet butter . Now whereas the old Proverb ( ab ovo ad mala ) sheweth that Apples were ever the last dish set upon the board , you must understand it of tartish and soure Apples , or else justly ( though newly ) find fault with an old custome . Philip of Macedonia and Alexander his son ( from whom perhaps a curious and skilful Herald may derive our Lancashire men ) were called Philomeli Apple-lovers , because they were never without Apples in their pockets ; yea all the Macedonians his Countrymen did so love them , that having neer Babylon surprized a Fruiterers hoy , they strived so for it that many were drowned ; which fight was therefore called by Historiographers , Melomachia , the Apple-fight ; but cruel fluxes surprised the Army upon this , and many dyed of intolerable gripings . Oxyacanthae . Spinae acidae . Berberies preserved , are a great refreshing to hot stomachs and aguish persons ; and being kept in pickle they serve for sallets and the garnishing of meat ; but they are of very little nourishment themselves , or rather of none at all , though by a pleasant sharpness they edge an appetite . Prunus-Sylvestris regius . Bullices likewise ( both white , speckled and black ) are of the like nature , being stued , bakt , roasted , or preserved ; fitter to be eaten last to close up the upper mouth of the stomach , then first to stop the neither mouth , unless it be in fluxes . Sorbi . Cervises ( like to Medlers ) are then truely ripe , when they are rotten ; if you would chuse the best , chuse the biggest , most poulpy , and voidest of stones . They are cold in the first degre , and dry in the third , giving little nourishment ; but staying fluxes , preventing drunkenness , strengthening the stomach , and making a sweet breath ; their great astringency sheweth that they are to be eaten last , for otherwise they wil bind the body , burden the stomach , and engender very gross humours . Pliny maketh four kind of Cervisses , one as round as an Apple , another bottled like a Peare , the third ovale made like an egg . The Apple-cervise is most sweet , fragrant , and nourishing , the other of a most winy tast ; the fourth kind of Cervisse is a very little one , called the Torment-Cerviss allowed for nothing but that it ceaseth the torments of bloody fluxes . Cherries were neither brought into Italy nor England till Lucius Lucullus returned from his victory against Mithridates ; whereof there are chiefly four sorts amongst us . Iuliana . Iulians which are very red , soft , and poulpy , never good but under the Tree ; for they rot in carriage a little way . Aproniana . Apronians , which are red , round , and harder , and can abide the carriage . Duracina . Duracines or in French Coeurs , or heart-Cherries , because they are made like a heart , which are the firmest of all other . Actiana . The blackest of all be called Actians , because they were brought from Actium a promontory of Epire. In England we have also seen white Cherries growing , wherein the artificial choler marred the good nature and taste of them ; wherefore I will not commend them for wholesomness , but shew their rareness . Concerning their uses , let us remember thus much ; that the Coeurs or French Cherries are most cordiall , the common and pulpy Cherries most nourishing , the black Cherries kernel is the best meat , but his flesh unwholesome and loathsome to the stomach . Furthermore our common Cherries being ripe and eaten from the Tree in a dewy morning , loosen the belly : when contrariwise Coeurs and red soure Cherries bind the same , being of a more dry and astringent faculty . All Cherries ( saving them which are black ) slake thirst , cool moderately , and procure appetite . Sweet and ripe Cherries should be eaten formost ; others are to be eaten last , either scalded or baked , or made into tart stuff , or preserved with sugar , or rather dried after the German manner ; which they keep all the year long to quench thirst in agues , to cool choller , to stir up appetite , to unfur the tongue and rellish the mouth , to stay puking , vomiting , and all kind of fluxes . Castaneae nuces . Chestnuts are so discommended of Galen in his book of Thin Diet , that they should be little esteemed , had not latter ages better considered of their nature . Pliny thought ( and I allow his reason ) that it could not be a vile meat , which nature had hidden with such wonderful and artificial covers or husks . Divus Tiberius having been in Sardinia , or rather ( as I take it ) at Sardis in Lidia , brought from thence some chestnuts , and set them in Italy ; whence no doubt they were derived into France and England . It is questioned by some , whether raw Chestnuts may not engender lice . But the French Chestnut is bigger , tenderer , and far sweeter then ours ; whereof there are two kinds , the one of a light and reddish colour fittest to be roasted , the other resembling a dark bay , enclining to a blackish brown ( called Coctivae of Pliny ) because they are best sodden . Of all Chestnuts chuse the biggest , fullest , brownest and roundest , and let them be three months old at the least before you eat them : If you eat too many , they breed head-ache , collicks and costiffness , but feed moderately upon them in the midst of meals , and they nourish without offence . They are dry in the second degree , and almost as hot as dry ; but seething remits a little of each , as roasting addeth somewhat to either quality . They are best in Winter , agreeing with moist complexions , and such as are not subject to stoppings of the brest and liver . Mala medica & Citria . Citrons , were not known in Homers time to be any meat : onely the pills thereof were burnt with Cedar-wood in Temples , when they sacrificed to Apollo : as thinking the fume of it a special preservative against the Plague : Neither is the juice of them since commended , but to resist poison , to qualifie humours putrified within the body , to make a sweet breath , to cure hot burning agues , and to cure the longing of women with child ; for which yet the seeds are thought most medicinable . Nevertheless I am sure as ripe Citrons in Spaine do nourish Spaniards , so preserved Citrons may no less nourish us , considering that their corrosive quality is altered by sugar , and their coldness made temperate thorough perboiling . Pruna Damascena . Damsins , which were first brought from the mount of Damascus in Syria , are a most wholesome Plum of all others , giving moderat nourishment in hot weather , to young chollerick and dry stomachs . The most nourishing be fully ripe , sweet , plump , and thin-skinn'd . Our custome is very bad to eat ripe Plums last , when their sweetness and lightness perswades us to eat them formost . Ripe Damsins eaten whilst the dew is upon them , are more medicinable then meat ; but being eaten at the beginning of Dinner or Supper , they are more meat then medicin , and give an indifferent sustenance to an indifferent stomach , especially when they are preserved . Damsins not fully ripe , had need to be boiled or preserved , to correct their cold and crude nature ; but as they are fit for hot stomachs and aguish persons , so none at all are good for them that be old , or cold , or watrish and phlegmatick of constitution . The like may be said of Damase-prunes , brought out of Syria , Spaine and Italy , which are sweet , nourishing and pleasant being stued or sodden ; when contrariwise the French Prune is harsh and soure , fitter to cool men in agues and to edge distasted stomachs , then to be offred any man in the way of meat . Dactili . Dates are usually put into stued broaths , minced-pies , and restorative cull●ces , as though they were of very great and wholesome nourishment . Ceatain it is that they fat much and encrease blood , but such blood as easily turneth into hot choller . Alexanders Souldiers were killed with new Dates ; which taste so pleasantly , that only danger makes a man surcease to eat them . The best Dates grow by Jericho in Jewry , the next by Alexandria in Egypt ; but the Dates of Barbary and Spaine have long writhled bodies without substance : Chuse them which are ripe and not rotten , firm and not worm-eaten , sweet and not astringent , and at the least a year old after the gathering ; for such are best for a cold Liver , fittest to move the Belly and to help the cough ; whereas new Dates bind excessively , stop the liver , stomach , veins , and lungs , gripe the guts , breed headach , hurt the teeth , and make little ulcers to arise in the mouth : yea ripe Dates lighting upon a bad stomach do easily putrifie , engendering malign agues , & stuffing the body with crude humours , whereupon great stoppings encrease both of spleen and liver . They are hot in the second degree , and moist in the first , never good when they are eaten alone , or without sugar , which hindreth their speedy corruption . Praenestinae , Heracleoticae , Ponticae & Avellanae nuces . Filberds and Haselnuts , coming first out of Pontus , and translated by the Romans into our Countrey , are found by experience to nourish the brain , to heal old coughes being eaten with hony , and to stay rhumes if be tosted . Also being peeld whilst they are green , and laid a while in water , and eaten afterwards with sugar or salt at the end of meat , they give a laudible nourishment , encreasing seed , tempering blood and making it of a good consistence . Chuse ever the longest , ripest , and thinnest shel`d , fullest of meat , and freest from spot or worm ; also eat them whilst they are new , if you purpose to nourish much ; for afterwards they wax more oily and less nourishing : they are best towards Winter , and fitter for strong and able stomachs , because they easily overturn weak stomachs and procure headache . Ficus Crossi . Figs are the sweetest fruit of the bitterest tree in the world ; for neither leafe , nor bud , nor bark , nor wood , nor body , nor root , nor any part of it is sweet besides the fruit : nay the very ashes of a fig-tree , is as sharpe and bitter as any soot ; yet figs themselves are so sweet , that onely for love of them the French men first invaded Italy , and inhabited a great part of it many years ; yea Moschus Antimolus the Sophister having once tasted them , he hated all other meats during his life ; and Plato so affected them , that he was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 ●he Fig lover ; nay he loved them so much , that he died of lice , engendred of corrupt blood which the Figs made ; also Pompejus Columna Cardinal and Viceroy of Naples , died suddenly in the arms of Austen Nyphus that famous Philosopher , with eating too many figs. Figs are dangerous without wine , but wholesome with it . Wherefore let all men beware of them , as Solomon bids us take heed of too much hony least our sweet meat bring soure sawce , and pleasure be punished with too late repentance . They are seldome eaten of us green from the tree ; and of outlandish figs , let Dioscorides commend his ( 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 ) yellow figs , Athenaeus his blue Figgs , and Pratensis his Mariscas , or Fig-dates ; yet in my judgement the round , short , and thick barrel'd Figs ( having a thin skin , and a firm substance , with few seeds in them ) are of all other the best , though not the sweetest , which I nothing doubt to be Callistruthiae Galeni , and those delicate figs of Livia Pompeia which Pliny writes of . The seed of Figs nourisheth no more then a stone , their skin hardly digesteth , onely their pulppy substance giveth much , though no very wholesome nor good nourishment . Chuse the softest , roundest , newest , soundest , thickest , and ripest ; and as you drink wine upon cold and moist fruits , so drink small drink , or suck the soure juice of Orenges , Pomegranards , Lemons , or Citrons after Figs : thus being taken they augment fat , clear the countenance , provoke venery , quench thirst , resist venom , purge the kidneys of gravel , and nourish more then any Tree-fruit whatsoever . But if you would ripen a cold , or cleanse your pipes , or clear your voice , it is best to eat them with ripe Almonds , or to drink them with barly water : old age is most offended by them , and such as have stopt livers , or be of a bad and corrupt complexion . Pistacia , or Psittacia . Fisticks , or rather Pisticks ( alluding to the Syrian word ) are Nuts growing in the knob of the Syrian or Egyptian Turpentine ▪ tree , being so much more wholesome , good and nourishing , by how much they are more sweet , odorifreous , full , big and green : They nourish plentifully , open the liver , clense the breast , strengthen the stomach and kidneys , stay fluxes and vomitings , fatten the body , stir up lust , and resist poison . They are wholesome both before and after meat , being eaten with old-pippins , or sugar-roset . Children and hot complexions must not use them , for they enflame their thin blood , and cause giddiness : but even Galen ( who discommends them more then he needed ) alloweth them in Winter for cold fleagmatick and weak stomachs . Isaac saith , that they are hot and dry in the second degree , whereof indeed they want very little . Uvae . Grapes differ two wayes especially , in substance and tast . In respect of substance , they are either fleshy , which are fittest for meat , or winy and thinn , which are fittest to drink , being made into wine . In respect of taste , sweet Grapes fatten and nourish most , being of hottest constitution , and speediest concoction ; yet they swell the stomach , engender thirst , and loosen the body . Soure and harsh Grapes are cold in operation , hardly digested , of little nourishment , griping and yet binding the belly , and therefore fitter to be tasted of as sawce , then to be eaten as meat . The Germans hang up clusters of ripe Grapes ( suffering them not to touch one another ) upon lines in a cold Gallery , or rather in their Bed-chambers ; which being dried nourish much , and yet neither swell the stomach nor cause loosness : in heat of agues one such Grape or two at the most do more refresh the mouth , and restore the taste , then six ownces of conserve of cold Berberies . Haselnuts are already written of in our Treatise of Filbirds . Mala Iunia . Iunitings are the first kind of Apples which are soonest ripe , coming in and going out with the Month of June ; of a little round and light substance , tender pulp , and very fragrant smell ; sent at that time to cool choler , slake thirst , and restore spirits decayed with heat of Summer ; it giveth sufficient though no great nor strong nourishment , being fitter for young and hot complections , then them which are weakned with phleagm . Gorni . Kornils or Corneols are of a very astringent and binding taste , fit to nourish weak stomachs that can keep nothing , or weak guts that void all things . For sound men they are not good , but eaten in small quantity after meat ; because they firmly seal up the stomach , and accidentally help concoctition . Tart stuff or Marmalade may be made of them to that purpose , wherein no doubt the excel quinces , Egleutius berries be of the like substance and nature . Malum Limonium . Lemmons approach neer unto Citrons : and Limes are engendred of them both . Their poulp is cold and dry in the third degree ; their peel hot and dry in the second , and their seed temperate . If you eat the juice alone , it causeth gripings , leanness and crudities ; but if you eat the peel with the pulp ( as nature seemeth therefore to have united them ) the heat of the one correcteth the rawness of the other , and not onely the stomach but also the heart is comforted by them both . They of Naples and Genoa slice the best and sourest Lemons and Citrons very thinn , and having cast on salt and rosewater , use them as a general sawce to all flesh and fish ; by which preparation an appetite is procured , their wine well tasted , and their kidneys scowred . But forasmuch as we live in a colder climate , it is best to take the ripest sort of Lemmons , and to steep their slises , peel and all in wine , sugar and cinamon upon the warm coals , and then to eat them alone , or with our meat . Let old and consumed persons beware of them ; for they will spend their spirits with abundance of urine , and also overthrow their natural heat , which is rather to be quickned and restored with wine , then quenched or quelled with so great a cooler . Mespila . Medlers were not seen in Italy whilst Cato lived , but now in England there be too many . Concerning the fruit it self , it is never good till it be rotten ; wherein the bus-meddlers of our age may also worthily be compared to them : the great ones ( called Setania ) have most pulp , the little ones less , but more fine and fragrant : these also do more comfort and bind the stomach , though the great ones excell them in plenty of nourishment : either sort is to be eaten last , because they are of an heavy and astringent nature , burdensom to the stomach , and engendering gross humours , if the be eaten first . Mora. Mulberies being black and fat ( which is a signe of their full ripeness ) are hot in the first degree , and moist in the second ; fittest to be eaten before meat ; because they easily pass from out the stomach to the guts , drawing the other meat along with themselves : they please the stomach , procure losness of body and urine , nourish ●ound and clean bodies , though they corrupt in unclean stomachs ; also they smoothen the harshness of the throate , quench thirst , delay choller , and cause no great , but yet a natural appetite to meat . They should be gathered before Sun-rising , and given onely ( as I said ) to clean stomachs and before meat ; for they will else corrupt and swell us up , and drive us perhaps into some putrified fever . They are fittest in Summer for young men , and such as abound with blood and choler . Unripe Mulberies ( which is discerned by their whiteness and redness ) may be good to make medicins for ulcered throats and fluxes of the belly , but they deserve not the names of nourishments . When Mulberies cannot be gotten , Blackberries or Dewberries may supply their room , to which Galen ascribeth the like vertues . This one thing let us note , omitted of all Herbarists of our latter age ; that albeit a Mulbery Tree be called in Greek and Latin Morus , that is to say , a fool ; yet her wisdome excelleth all other Trees in my judgement , because it never budeth till all sharp weather be clean gone , and then spredeth out her leaves more in a day , then all other Trees did in thirty before . Olivae . Olives ( the desired salade of divine Plato ) are an usual dish at most mens Tables , though none of them grow in England . Wild Olives are better , then those which are set in City Orchards ; which the very Birds do know in Italy , more coveting the wilder sort . We have three sorts of them brought into our Countrey , Spanish-olives , Italian olives , and Olives of Provence . The first sort is the biggest , but yet the worst , being too yellow , too soft , and too full of oil : the Italian Olive is almost as big , but more firm of flesh , and pleasanter through retaining his natural greenishness . The Province Olives are less then either , something ▪ bitterer also and more leather like skin'd , yet better for the stomach then the Spanish , though nothing neer the Italian or Bononian Olive in flesh , taste , or goodness : There also their pickles is made of water , salt , ind sweet fennel , which giveth them a greater grace , and maketh them less heavy unto weak stomachs . All Olives ( even the best ) are but of slow and little nourishment ; serving especially to provoke appetite , to cleanse the stomach of phlegm , to strengthen the guts , and to cure loathing of meat . It were good to take them out of their salt pickle ( which enflameth blood ) and to lay them a while in vinegar before we eat them , to correct their heat , and make them more agreeable to the stomach . They are best in the midst of meat with a French salad ; for being first eaten , they lye heavy in the stomach , and being last eaten , they offend the head with their brackish and salt vapours , which hinder sleep and encrease thirst . Malum Aurantium . Orenges are brought hither of three kinds , some exceeding sweet , others soure , and the third sort unsavory , or of no rellish . The first sort are sweet and temperately hot , of indifferent nourishment , good for stoppings of the brest , rhumes and melancholy . Very soure Orenges are extreamly cold , making thin and watrish blood , and griping the belly ; but right Civil-orenges have a pleasant verdure betwixt sweet and soure ; whose juice and flesh preserved , cause a good appetite , bridle choler , quench thirst , yet neither cool nor dry in any excess . As for unsavory Orenges , they neither nourish nor serve to any good use ; but lie heavy in the stomach , stirring up wind and breeding obstructions in the belly : being eaten with sugar and cinamon , civil-orenges give a pretty nourishment to aguish persons , whose stomachs can digest no strong meats ; and also their pills preserved do somewhat nourish , especially if they be not spoiled of the white part , which is most nourishing ; as the outward rind contrariwise is most medicinable ; chuse the heaviest , ripest , and best coloured , and those that taste pleasantly betwixt sweet and soure . Mala Persica . Peaches shew manifestly how change of earth and climate may alter natures ; For Columella and divers before Plinies time have recorded , that in Persia ( from whence they were brought into Europe ) peaches are a deadly poison ; but with us the smell of a ripe , tender , and fragrant peach comforteth the heart , and their meat not onely causeth appetite , maketh a sweet breath and cooleth choler , but also easily digesteth and giveth good nourishment . I never saw greater store of good peaches then in Suitzerland ; where the poor men fat themselves and their hoggs with them exceedingly when they are in season . All Peaches are to be quartered , and laid in strong wine before they are eaten . Ripe Peaches according to Galens rule must be eaten in the beginning of meals , because they are a moist and slippery fruit ; but hard and unripe Peaches are best at the end of meat ( if ever they are good at all ) yea though they be candied or preserved ; yet Peaches must be sparingly eaten , for many are dangerous , and killed Theognostus that fine Scholer , so much lamented in the Greek Epigrams . Four good morsels , Peaches , Figs , Melons , and Champignois . Pyra . Pears be of infinite kindes , because men by graffing divers Pears together have made of them infinite mixtures . The Norwich-pear , and St. Thomas-Pear are most durable and very good ; the Sand-pear is firm and also nourishing ; the Lady-pear is too watrish , though beautiful in colour : The Katherin-pear is simply best and best relished : The Musk-pear is very cordial ; The Long-tail hath a good verdure ; The Puff-pear is full of wind : The Bell-pear is very sappy : The Tanckard-pear is somewhat bitterish and noisome to the stomach . But leaving their infinite differences of shape , colour , and time , let us onely write of their differences in taste , which is chiefly to be regarded . All sweet Pears be most nourishing , cleansing the brest of Phleagm , comforting the stomach , and least binding . Soure and harsh Pears are exceeding hurtful to the stomach and sinewy parts ; unsavory Pears breed ill juice , and bitter Pears nourish nothing at all . If a well rellished Pear be also endued with a fragrant smell ( as the Katherin Pear , Violet , Poppering , Sugar-Pear , Musk-pear and such like ) they are to be preferred before all others . Concerning the preparation of Pears , they are worst raw , and their skinn is most unwholesome ; without wine they are counted poison , especially being largely taken as a meat . They are best being eaten last , as contrariwise Apples for the most part are first to be eaten ; because they are rather of a loosning then an astringent nature . They are best baked , then roasted ; but dryed Pears ( in Harry Stevens judgement ) surpass all for strong nourishment . They are temperate in heat and cold , but dry in the second degree : which causeth them to cease fluxes and vomits , to repel vapours , and strengthen the stomach . Pruna . Plums grow here in such variety , that to name them onely were a tedious work . The most pulppy , sweet , pleasant and nourishing be these . Pear-plums , Violet-plums , Pescod-plums our Ladies-plums , Wheatplums , Mawdlins , and Damsins , whereof we have already spoken . The least nourishing ( though some of them taste not unpleasantly , especially the Christian-plum ) are Bullices , Christians , Prunellaes , Skegs and Horseplums . All Plums baked , stued , or preserved with sugar do more plentifully nourish , because much of their sharpness , watrishness , and rawness is thereby corrected . Alwaies remember to eat the sweetest sort before , and the sourest sorts of Plums after meat , least unorderly eating cause that to be blamed , which was good and wholesome in his due place . Here I have occasion to speak of the paste of Genoa made of fragrant and fine ripe Plums ; which no doubt is not onely cordial , but also restorative to such stomachs , as through extremities of agues have lost their strength . Mala Punica . Pomegranads when they are sweet and thorough ripe , loosen phlegm , help the stomach , brest , and cough , encrease venery , provoke urine , loosen the belly , moisten the spiritual parts , and give indifferent store of good nourishment : they are best in Winter for old men and phlegmatick constitutions . Soure Pomegranads hurt a cold stomach , straiten the brest , hinder expectoration , stop the liver , offend both teeth and gums , cool excessively , stay all humoral fluxes , yet provoke urine most plentifully ; and therefore they are more prescribed in agues then the sweet ones , as also to cholerick young men subject to scowrings . Paulus Aegineta affirmeth , soure Pomegranads to bind onely sound mens bodies , but not such as be sick . Howsoever it is , sith the ones goodness resisteth the others hurtfulness , it is best to mingle both their juices for such as be aguish or weak , and severally to use them for the strong according as occasion serveth . Mala cotonea & Cydonia . Quinces are of two sorts ; an Apple-quince called malum cotoneum , and a Pear ▪ quince called of Dioscorides Struthium ; both of them were first brought from Cydon , a castle in Candy , whereupon they are commonly called mala Cydonia ; we account most of the latter sort ; but the cotton and downy Quince made like an Apple , is most commended of the Grecian and Latin writers . Of either of them chuse the most clear , transparant , thin-skind , ungravelly , downy , best smelling , and most furrowed as it were with long streaks ; for the very scent of such is comfortable , and though their raw flesh be as hard as raw beefe unto weak stomachs , yet being roasted , or baked , or made into Marmalade , or cunningly preserved , they give a wholesome and good nourishment , and make the body soluble being eaten last at meat ; for if you eat them first , they clyng the stomach , cause exceeding costiffness , and hinder digestion , as Galen sufficiently tried in Protas the Orator . They are cold in the first degree , and dry almost in the second : agreeing with all ages , times , and complexions , where just occasion is given to use them . Uvae passae . Raisins are of the same temperature with the Grapes which they are made of , being also as divers in taste , substance and quality , as they be . That Noah was the first planter of Vines , Christians know better out of the Bible , then any Poet or heathen writer could ever aim at ; but who first divised the drying of Raisins in the Sun , or the pressing them into frailes , it is neither set down by Pliny nor any other Author that I have read . Onely this I finde by reason and experience , that the greatest , fattest , sweetest , longest and blewest Raisins of the Sun are ever best ; nourishing sufficiently , moderately clensing , very well temperating ill humours , mitigating all paines , and engendring very pure and good blood ; yea the African Physitians that lived in Galens time did with one voice and consent protest thus much of them , that for opening the brest , stomach and lungs ; for cleansing the blood , kidneys , and bladder , for ceasing all pains of the guts and moderate nourishment , no fruit is to be compared unto Raisins . Matthiolus in his Commentaries upon Dioscorides saith that Raisins of the Sun being either voided of their kernels or growing without kernels , loosen the belly , help hoarseness , and both nourish and cleanse the liver : contrariwise being eaten with the stones or kernels , they work rather a contrary operation . That Grapes nourish much , we may see ( saith Galen ) by Vintage labourers , who come lean to the vineyard , but return as fat as Hogs . Much more do Rasins of the Sun and other Raisins nourish our bodies , and are therefore to be accounted for no bad meats . Pyra volema Plinij . Wardens or Palme-pears so called , because one of them will fill the palm of a hand , were first brought into credit by Livia Pompeja ; they are very hurtful and almost indigestible being eaten raw or green ; but towards Winter they are very wholesome for a weak stomach , being stued , bakt , or roasted , and to be preferred for nourishment before all fruit ; engendring ( especially when they are sweet and red ) most wholesome juice ; strengthening concoction , repelling vapours from the head , and comforting the weak and decayed spirits : would to God every hedge were as full of them as they are of wild Pears and Crabs , that both poor and rich might have a competent nourishment when fish and flesh can hardly be gotten . Iuglandes . Wallnuts or Iupiters acorns ( for so the Greeks and Latins called them ) are sufficiently nourishing whilst they are green , but when they once wax so dry that they hardly peel , they are more medicinable then nourishing : either of them engender the cough and cause headache ; but if you peel new Walnuts and wash them in wine and salt , they are least offensive to the stomach , and yet more nourishing if you eat them with sugar . Old Walnuts are hot in the third degree , and dry in the second ; new Walnuts are most temperate in each respect , agreeing with old men and phlegmatick persons , being eaten at the end of the Fall , and the beginning of winter . CHAP. XXIII . Of such Fruits of the Garden as are nourishing . A Atichokes grew sometimes onely in the Isle of Sicil ; and since my remembrance they were so dainty in England , that usually they were sold for crownes a peice : now industry and skill hath made them so common , that the poorest man is possessed of Princes dainties . Julius Capitolinus in the life of Pertinax , and Pliny likewise in the 19 book of his natural History , reports Artichokes to have been of such estimation in Carthage and Corduba , that there were sold as many Artichokes in one year , as came to six thousand Sesterties , which maketh thirty thousand pound Sterling . The first sprouts of Artichoke-leavs being sod in good broth with butter , do not onely nourish , but also mightily stir up lust of the body both in men and women : the young heads of them eaten raw with pepper and salt do the like ; but the great heads being once come to perfection , howsoever they are counted windy & hard of digestion , fuming up to the head , and burdensom to the stomach : yet certain it is that they are of great nourishment being well prepared . Some boil them in fat poudred beefe broth till they be tender , and then eat them with vinegar , pepper , sugar , butter , and salt . Others having parboiled them a little , take the pulpy part in the bottome , and with sweet Marrow , Verjuice , Pepper , Sugar , and Gooseberries , make most excellent and restorative Pies . The Italians broil them on a Gridiron , setting their bottoms downward , and pouring on a little sweet oil upon every leaf assoon as they open with the heat , and as that soakes in , they put in a little more : for if much should be poured in at once , they would smel of the smoak , by reason that the oil would drop into the fire . This way the Artichoke is least windy , and ( if it be eaten with Sugar , Butter , and the juice of an Orenge ) most pleasant likewise . They are hot in two degrees , and dry in one ; and therefore fittest for cold , aged persons , and complexions . Remember that raw Artichokes are to be eaten towards the end of meals , but the other at the beginning or in the midst . Asparagus . Asparagus was in old time a meat for such Emperours as Julius Caesar ; now every boord is served with them . They must be presently gathered when their heads bow downwards , and being sodden in two or three waters ( to ridd them of bitterness ) they are to be boiled in mutton broth till they be tender , which is done in a trice . The greatest and tenderest stalked are ever best , and few or no kind of herbs nourish more , being spoiled of their bitterness and eaten hot . Galen doubteth of their active quality , but yet experience sheweth them to be temperately moist , and not to exceed in heat the first degree . Ballocks-grass , or Satyrium ( whereof there be five principal kinds ) is only nourishing in the full , heavy and sappy root ; for the other is of clean contrary disposition . Some eat them being boiled in Goats milke and Sugar . Others candy them , or keep them in Syrup : any way they encrease bodily lust strengthen the liver , help the parts of conception , restore them which are consumed , and give plentiful nourishment in hectick Fevors . ▪ Mora rubi . Bramble-berries , or Black-berries , be they of the greater or the less kind , are temperately warm , and sufficiently nourishing to a weak stomach . How the poor live upon them , daily experience sheweth ; yet being much eaten they bind the body , and engender such putrified humors as beget both scabs and lice . Borrago . Buglossa . Sirsium . Borrage , Bugloss and Langdebeif , are of so great a temperature in all qualities , that they are not only commended for special Cordials being steeped in Wine , or made into Conserves ; but also their flowers , herbs , and roots are esteemed restorative , nourishing weak bodies sufficiently , and strengthening the parts of nourishment more then meanly , being sodden in broths , cullises , or gellies . Personatae radix . Burr-roots , ( I mean of the Clot burr , called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 by the Greeks ) whilst they are young and tender , in the month of April , are very wholesome and nourishing , being eaten like a young green Artichoke with pepper and salt . The Frenchmen and Italians first found them out : since which time they are more common amongst us , through the means of them which have travelled into strange Countries . Brassicae . Coleworts be of divers sorts , but the most nourishing of all is your white-leafed Cabbage ( as big as a great loaf ) called Brassica Tritiana , and that which the Italians calleth Cauli flores : so beloved of Pompey , that it was termed Brassica Pompeiana . Either of them must first gently be sodden in fair water , then again steeped all night in warm milk ; afterwards seeth them with fat marrow or in fat brues , and they are very nourishing without offence . Otherwise all Coleworts engender gross and melancholique bloud . Choose ever the whitest and tenderest leafed , for they are of the finest and best nourishment . The Aegyptians eat Cabbage first to prevent drunkenness . Danci hortenses . Carot roots , are very temperate in heat and driness , of an aromatical and spice-like taste , warming the inward parts , and giving great nourishment to indifferent stomachs , being sodden in fat and fleshy broth , or else buttered . The yellower the root , the more sweet , tender , and aromatical is the Carot : and the best grow in a black , soft and ripe though not in a forced earth . Anguriae Citruli . Citruls , ( so much beloved of Tiberius the Emperor ) are of like temperature with Melons and Pompions ( of whom hereafter ) nourishing hot stomachs very well being boiled with good flesh or sweet milk . C●cumeres . Melopepones . Cucumbers growing in hot grounds and well ripened with the Sun , are neither moist nor cold in the second degree . They agree well with hot stomachs being eaten with vineger , salt , oil , and pepper : but if you boil them ( whilst they are young ) with white-wine , vervin , dill , and salt liquor , they are not of a bad nourishment ( as Galen took them ) but engender good humors , and settle a very cold and weak stomach : as by much practice and long experience I have proved in divers persons . Schaenoprasa . Cives , or Rush-leeks be almost as hot as Leeks themselves . Some eat them raw in Salads , but then they nourish not . If you boil them twice or thrice in water , they lose their over-hot and drying nature , and give no bad nourishment to cold stomachs . Glandes terrestres Dodonaei . Earthnuts grow much on Richmond Heath and Coome Park , as also beside Bath as you travel to Bristol . They are best in May. In Holland and Brabant they are eaten ( as the roots of Turneps and Parsneps ) boiled in flesh-broth , which correcteth their binding quality , and maketh them of good and wholesome nourishment . Bulbocastanea . Earth-chesnuts are far bigger then Earthnuts , and the flowers of them are white where the others be red . About Bath there is great plenty of them , and they are of like nourishment and use with the Earthnuts . Intubum sativum latifolium . Endive ( especially that which hath the longest , largest , softest , and whitest leaves ) is of good nourishment to hot stomachs , not only cooling but also encreasing bloud ; if it be sodd in white broth till it be tender : but if you eat it raw in salads ( as it is most commonly used ) then it only cooleth and lyeth heavy in the stomach , because it is not freed from its crudities . Vacinia palustria . Fen-berries grow not only in Holland in low and moist places , but also ( if I have not forgotten it ) in the Isle of Eli. They are of like temper and faculty with our whortles , but somewhat more astringent . Being eaten raw or stewed with sugar , they are wholesome meat in hot burning fevers , unto which either fluxes of humors or spending of spirits are annexed . Likewise they quench thirst no less then Ribes , and the red or outlandish Gooseberrie . Mora Rubi Idaei . Trambois , or Raspis are of complexion like the Blackberry and Dewberry , but not of so astringent nor drying quality . Furthermore they are more fragrant to the Nose and more pleasant in taste , and of far better nourishment to hot stomachs for cold stomachs cannot convert them into any good juice . Allium . Garlick was so odious or hurtful to Horace that he makes it more venemous then Hemlocks , Adders bloud , Medea's cups , yea then the poison of Nessus the Centaure which killed Hercules . Contrariwise the Thracians eat it every morning to breakfast , and earry it with them in warfare as their chiefest meat . Whereat we need not marvel , considering the coldness of their Country and their phlegmatick constitution . Let us rather wonder at the Spaniard , who eats it more ( being a hot Nation ) then our labouring men do here in England . Whereby we may see how preparation begetteth in every thing another nature : for the Thracians eat it raw because of their extreme coldness ; but the Spaniard sodden first in many waters , or else rosted under the embers in a wet paper , whereby it is made sweet and pleasant , and hath lost more then half of his heat and dryness Thus is Garlick medicine and meat : medicine if it be eaten raw , but meat and nourishment being rosted under the embers , or stickt like lard in fat meat , or boiled in many waters , broths , or milks . By which way also his fuming and diuretical quality is much corrected . Yet beware lest you eat too much of it , lest it engender little worms in your flesh , as it did in Arnulphus the Emperor , whereof he died . It is very dangerous to young children , fine women , and hot young men ; unless the headdy , hot and biting quality thereof be extinguished by the foresaid means . Cucurbitae . Gourds eaten raw and unprepared , are a very unwholesome food , as Galen saith , exceedingly cooling , charging , and loading the stomach ; and engendering crudities and wind . But being boiled , baked , or fryed with butter , it loseth his hurtfulness , and giveth good nourishment to indifferent stomachs . The seed of it being husked and boiled in new milke is counted very restorative in hectick fevers . Grossulae . Uvae crispae . Gooseberries being thorough ripe are as nourishing as sweet , and of the like temper , not only encreasing flesh , but also fatting the body . They should be eaten first and not last , because they are so light a fruit . When they are almost ripe they are restorative being made into Codiniack , or baked in Tarts . Soure Gooseberries nourish nothing , serving rather for sawce to please ones taste , then to augment flesh . Grossulae transmarinae . Red Gooseberries or bastard ▪ Corinths , commonly called Ribes of Apothecaries , and taken of Dodonaeus for the Bears-berry of Galen ; is almost of the like nature with Gooseberries , but more cold , dry , and astringent by one degree , because they never wax sweet in our Country . They are very cordial and cooling in Agues , being eaten either in Conserve , or Codiniack ; yea nourishing also to hot stomachs . Lupularii asparagi . Hop-shootes are of the same nature with Asparagus , nourishing not a little , being prepared in the like sort ( which is before described ) though rather cleansing and scouring of their own nature . Alliaria . Jack by the hedge , as it is not much used in Medicines , so it was heretofore a very ancient and common meat , being therefore called Sawce alone . Country men do boil it and eat it in stead of Garlick , being no less strengthened and nourished by it then the Persian children were with Town-cresses . I allow it not for indifferent stomachs , unless it have been steept in divers warm waters , and then be eaten ( as Garlick may be eaten ) moderately : for it is hot and dry more then in the third degree . Porra . Leeks are esteemed so wholesome and nourishing in our Country , that few thinke any good Pottage can be made without them . That they engender bloud no author denies , but they say it is gross , hot , and evil bloud . Nevertheless if they be first sodden in milke , and then used in meat , they are unclothed of all bad qualities , and become friendly to the stomach , and nourishing to the liver . The Grecians made such reckoning of Leeks , as our Welsh men do ; yea he ever sate uppermost at Apollo's feast that brought thither the greatest headed Leek . Some impute that to his mother Latona her longing for Leeks whilst she was with child of Apollo . Others say that Apollo did so highly esteem them , because they engender much bloud and seed , whereby mankind is much encreased : which opinion I like best of , hearing and seeing such fruitfulness in Wales , that few or none be found barren , and many fruitful before their time . Porrum sectivum Palladii . The unset Leek or Maiden-leek is not so hot as the knopped ones ; because his fuming quality is diminished by often cutting . Lactuca . Lettice is not more usually then profitably eaten of us in Summer ; yea Galen did never eat of any other Garden herb save this ( for ought we read ) whereby he delayed the heat of his stomach in youth , eating it formost , and slept soundly and quietly in age , eating it last . It is better sodden then raw , especially for weak stomachs : and if any will eat it raw , correct it with mingling a little Tarragon and Fennel with it . The young loaft . Lettice is simply best , but you must not wash it , for then it loseth its best and most nourishing vertue that lieth upon the outmost skin : only pluck away the leaves growing near the ground , till you come to the cabbage of the Lettice , and it is enough . Long use of Lettice causeth barrenness , cooleth lust , dulleth the eyesight , weakeneth the body , and quencheth natural heat in the stomach : but moderately and duly taken of hot natures , it encreaseth bloud , seed , and milk , stayeth all fluxes of nature , bringeth on sleep and cooleth the heat of Urine . The middle and thickest part of the leaf being boiled and preserved in Syrup ( as Endiff and Succory is done beyond-sea ) give a great nourishment to weak persons newly recovered of hot Agues . The Romans did eat Lettice last to provoke sleep : we eat it first to provoke appetite . So that Martials question is fully answered : Claudere quae coenas Lactuce solebat avorum . Dic mihi , cur nostras incipit illa Dapes ? When elder times did feed on Lettice last , Why is it now the first meat that we tast ? Melones & Pepones . Melons and Pompions are not so cold nor moist as Cucumbers . Growing in a hot ground and thoroughly ripened with hot and dry weather , they give much nourishment , especially being baked with good flesh or sweet milke , or baked with sweet apples butter and fennel-seed . Melopepones . Musk-melons are neither so moist nor cold as the ordinary sort , engendring far better bloud , and descending more speedily into the belly . They will hardly prosper in our Country , unless they are set in a very fat , hot , and dry ground , having the benefit of Sun-shine all the year long . Jason Mainus ( a most famous Civilian ) so loved a Musk-melon , that he said to one of his friends , Were I in Paradise as Adam was , and this Fruit forbidden me , Verily , I fear me , I should leave Paradise to taste of a Musk-melon . Nevertheless let not the pleasant smell or taste of them draw any man to eat too much of them , for they cast Albertus secundus the Emperor into a deadly flux ; Sophia Queen of Poland into a numb'd Palsie , and Paulus secundus the Pope into a mortal Apoplexy . All Melons , Pompions , and Cucumbers , are not presently to be eaten out of the ground ( though they be fully ripe ) but rather a week after for with delay they prove less moist , and also less cold . As for our great Garden Pompions and Melons they may tarry in a warm Kitchin till towards Christmass before they be eaten , to be more dryed from their watrishness , and freed from crudities . Napi . Navews , especially Napus sativus , called in English Navew gentle , nourish something less then Turneps , otherwise they are of like operation . They are best sodden in pouldred Beef broth , or else with fat Mutton , or pouldred Pork . Cepae . Onions are very hot and drye ; nevertheless being rosted or boiled in fat broth or milke , they become temperate and nourishing , leaving their hot and sharp nature in the broth or embers . The Priests of Aegypt abhorred them of all herbs ; first because ( contrary to the course of other things ) they encrease most when the Moon decreaseth . Secondly , because they nourish too much , and procure lust , which religious men , of all other persons , ought to refrain . The greater , whiter , longer , sweeter , thinner-skinned , and fuller of juice they be ( such are St. Thomas Onions ) the more they nourish , and excel in goodness : but if they be very red , dry , round , light , and sowrish , they are not so commendable . Raw Onions be like raw Garlick , and raw Leeks ( that is to say , of great malignity , hurting both head , eyes , and stomach , enflaming blood , and engendering both gross and corrupt humors ) but sodden in milke , and then eaten Sallad-wise with sweet oil , vinegar , and sugar ( as we use them in Lent ) they are hurtful to no persons nor complexions . Apium hortense . Parsley nourisheth most in the root ; for if you choose young roots and shift them out of two or three warm waters , they lose their medicinable faculty of opening and cleansing , and become as sweet , yea almost as nourishing as a Carot being sodden in fat broth made with good flesh . The like may I say of Alisander buds which is nothing but the Parsley of Alexandria ) being drest or prepared in the like manner : otherwise they may be used ( as Nettles are ) in Spring-time pottage to cleanse bloud , but they will give no laudable or rather no nourishment at all . Portulaca . Purslane is usually eaten green in sallades , as Lettice likewise . But being sodden in wine it is of good nourishment in the Summer time unto hot stomachs , which are able to overcome it . Radices Sisari Indici . Potado-roots are now so common and known amongst us , that even the husbandman buyes them to please his wife . They nourish mightily , being either sodd , baked , or rosted . The newest and heaviest be of best worth , engendring much flesh , bloud , and seed , but withall encreasing wind and lust . Clusius thinks them to be Indian Skirrets , and verily in taste and operation they resemble them not a little . Radicula sativa . Radish roots of the Garden ( for they are best ) are either long and white without , or round like a Turnep , and very black skinned , called the Italian Radish . Most men eat them before meat to procure appetite , and help digestion . But did they know ( and yet they feel it ) what ranck belchings Radishes make , how hardly they are digested , how they burn bloud , and engender lice , cause leanness , rot the teeth , weaken eye-sight , and corrupt the whole mass of nourishment , I thinke they would be more temperate and sparing of them ; yet were so prized amongst the Grecians , that at Apollo's feast when Turneps were served in tinn dishes , and Beets in silver , yet Radish roots were not served but in golden dishes . Notwithstanding , sith by nature they provoke vomiting , how can they be nourishing ? unless it be to such rustical stomachs as are offended with nothing , and to whom resty Bacon is more agreeable then young and tender pork . Nevertheless sith only the heat and biting of radish , are the chiefest cause why it nourish little or nothing ( as Galen saith ) no doubt if by steeping in warm milk , or boiling in fat broth those qualities be removed , it would prove the less medicinable & more nourishing . Rapi Silvestris radix . Rampions or wild Rapes , of nature not unlike to Turneps , eaten raw with vinegar and salt , do not onely stir up an appetite to meat , but also are meat and nourishment of themselves . In high Germany they are much eaten , and now our Nation knows them indifferently well ; and begin to use them . Radix Allii ursini . Ramseys are of like vertue and power with Garlick , and are so to be prepared , or else they give neither much nor any good nourishment . Rapae . Rapes or Turneps , sodden in fat broth , or roasted with butter and sugar put into the midst thereof , nourish plentifully , being moderately taken ; for if they be undigested through excess , they stir up windiness , and many superfluous humours in the body . The Bohemians have Turneps as red outwardly as blood , which I did eat of in Prague , and found them a most delicate meat ; yea they are counted so restorative and dainty , that the Emperour himself nurseth them in his Garden . Roasted Turneps are so sweet and delicate , that Mavius Curius refused much gold , offered him by the Samnites , rather then to leave his Turnep in the Embers . Radices Eringii marini . Sea holly roots are of temperate heat and cold , but somewhat of too dry a nature ; yet prove they moist enough to give plentiful nourishment , after they have been preserved in syrupe or candied with ginger , encreasing blood , seed , and lust , and restoring such as by lechery have been much consumed . Radices Sisari . Skirret-roots were so sweet & delicate in ancient times , that Tiberius Caesar , caused the Inhabitants of Gelduba ( a certain signory upon the Rhine ) to pay him tribute at Rome in Skirret-roots ; bringing them weekly thither whilst they were in season . They have a long string or pith within them , which being taken away before they are thorough sod , maketh them eat exceeding sweet ; usually they are boild till they be tender , and then eaten cold with vinegar , oil and pepper ; but if they be roasted four or five together in a wet paper under embers ( as one would roast a Potado ) or strain'd into tart-stuff , and so baked with sugar , butter and rosewater , they are far more pleasant and of stronger nourishment , agreeing with all complexions , sexes and ages , being also of a mild heat and a temperate moisture . Did we know all the strength and vertues of them , they would be much nourished in our Gardens , and equally esteemed with any Potado root . Cepa Ascalonites . Skallions are a kind of little Onions , brought first from Ascalon a Town of Jewry ; very hot and dry , yea hotter and drier by one degree then any Onions . Cold stomachs and barren weaklings may safely eat them raw to procure appetite and lust ; but they are not nourishing to indifferent stomachs till they have been perboild in new milk . Some correct them , by mincing them small , and steeping them a good while in warm water , afterwards they eat them with vinegar , oil and salt , after the Italian fashion . Spinachia . Spinache being boiled soft and then eaten with butter , small currens and sugar heat together upon a chafing dish , giveth no bad nor little nourishment to dried bodies , and is onely hurtful to such as be over-phlegmatick . Fragulae . Strawberries of the garden , be they white , red , or green ( but the red are best ) being once come to their full ripeness in a warm Summer , and growing in a warm ground , are to a young hot stomach both meat and medicine . Medicin to cool his choler & excessive heat ; meat by his temperate and agreeable moisture , fit at that time of the year to be converted into blood ; especially being eaten raw with wine and sugar , or else made into tart stuff and so baked : howsoever they be prepared , let every man take heed by Melchior Duke of Brunswick how he eateth too much of them , who is recorded to have burst a sunder at Rostock with surfeiting upon them . Cranz . lib. 9. cap. 9. Hist . Vandal . Radix spirae albae . Thistle-roots ( I mean of the white thistle when it first springeth ) are exceeding restorative and nourishing , being sodden in white ▪ stued broth , or else baked in Tarts , or in Pies like Artichoks : few men would think so good meat to lye hidden in so base and abject an herb , had not trial and cookery found out the vertue of it . Rapae rotunde . Turneps ( in commendation whereof Moschio the Grecian wrote a large volumn ) are nothing but round Rapes , whereof heretofore we writ in this Chapter . Nastureia aquatica . Water-cresses and Town-cresses nourish raw and cold stomachs very well : but for hot or indifferent stomachs they are of a contrary nature . Xenophon saith , that the Persians children going to School , carry nothing with them to eat and drink , but Cresses in the one hand and Bread in the other , and an earthen cruse at their girdle to take up water in : whereby we may perceive that they agree well with moist natures , and such as are accustomed to drink water : Otherwise no doubt they nourish nothing , but rather over heat and burn the blood . As for Anise , Blites , Blood-wort , Broom-buds , Gapars , Calamint , Clary , Dill , Fennel , Galangal , Hisope , Marigolds , Mustard-seed , Mints , Nettles , Orache , Patience , Primroses , Rosemary , Saffron , Sage , Samphire , Savory , Tamarisk , Tansy , Tarragon , Time , Violets and Wormwood : howsoever they are used sometimes in broths , pottage , farrings , sawces , salads and tansies ; yet no nourishment is gotten by them , or at the least so little , that they need not , nor ought not to be counted amongst nourishments . CHAP. XXIV . Of such Fruits of the Field , as are nourishing . THe chief fruits of the field are Wheate , Rye , Rice , Barly , Oates , Beanes , Chiches , Pease and Lentils . Triticum . Wheate is divided into divers kinds by Pliny , Columella , Dodonaeus , Pena and Lobelius ; it shall be sufficient for us to describe the sorts of this Country , which are especially two : The one red called Robus by Columella , and the other very white and light called Siligo , whereof is made our purest manchet . Being made into Furmity and sodden with milk and sugar , or artificially made into bread ; Wheate nourisheth exceeding much and strongly : the hardest , thickest , heaviest , cleanest , brightest and growing in a fat soil , is ever to be chosen ; for such Wheate ( in Dioscorides and Galens judgement ) is most nourishing . Secale . Rye seemeth to be nothing but a wild kind of wheate , meet for Labourers , Servants and Workmen , but heavy of digestion to indifferent stomachs . Oriza . Rice is a most strong and restorative meat , discommendable onely in that it is over-binding ; very wholesome pottage is made thereof with new milk , sugar , cinamon , mace and nutmegs : whose astringency if any man fear , let him soke the Rice one night before in sweet Whey , and afterwards boil it in new milk with sugar , butter , cloves and nutmegs , leaving out cinamon and mace . Thus shall the body be nourished , costiveness prevented , and nature much strengthened and encreased . Hordeum . Barly used any way in bread , drink or broth , is ever cooling ( saith Galen ) and engendreth but a thin and weak juice . Before we use it in broths or Ptisan , it should be clean hulld , and washed in many waters . The decoction of Barly in chicken-broth , strained with a few blauncht almonds , and sweetned with sugar , and rosewater , is a very covenient meat for sound men , but more for them which are sick and abhor flesh . Cardan saith that Galen maketh mention of a kind of Barly in Greece ▪ growing without a husk , and hulld by nature ; which place he never citeth , because he was mistaken ; for through all Galen I could never find any such thing , though of purpose I searched for it very diligently . The best Barly is the biggest and yellowest without , and fullest , closest and heaviest within ; it is never to be used in meat till it be half a year old , because lying causeth it to ripen better , and to be also far less windy . Being made into Malt by a sweet fire and good cunning , it is the foundation of our English wine , which being as well made as it is at Not●ingam , proveth meat drink and cloth to the poorer sort . Parched Barly or Malt is hot and dry , but otherwise it is temperately cooling and less drying . That Wheate and Rye is far more nourishing then Barly . Plutarch would thence prove , because they are half a year longer in the earth , and are of a more thick , sappy , and firm substance . But Rice ( being counted and called by Tragus German Barly ) disarmeth that reason , which is not sowed till March and yet is of as great or rather greater nourishment . Avenae . Oates termed by Galen the Asses and Horses provender , are of the like nature with Barly , but more astringent , especially being old and thorough dry . Had Galen seen the Oaten cakes of the North ; the Janocks of Lancashire , and the Grues of Cheshire , he would have confessed that Oates and Oatmeal are not onely meat for beasts ▪ but also for tall , fair and strong men and women of all callings and complexions : but we pardon the Grecians delicacy , or else ascribe it to the badness of their soile , which could bring forth ▪ no Oates fit for nourishment . Chuse the largest , heaviest , sweetest , fullest and blackest to make your Oatmeal groats of , for they are least windy and most nourishing . Fabae . Beans were first a field fruit , howsoever ( to make them more sappy ) they have lately been set and kept in gardens . Pythagoras forbad his Scholers to eat of them ( especially coming once to be great and black-taild ) because they hinder sleep and procure watchfulness ( for which cause they were given to Iudges as they sate down in judgement ) or else in sleep cause fearful and troublesome dreams , as you may read in Tullius second book of Divination ; wherefore howsoever Camatherus ( Immanuel Commenaeus his Secretary ) ventured for them , or men now affect them in these dayes ; assuredly they are a very hurtful meat , unless they be eaten very young , and sod in fat broth , and afterwards ( being freed of their husk ) be eaten in the beginning or midst of meal , buttered throughly and sufficiently sprinkled with gross pepper and salt ; then will they nourish much , and too too much encrease seed to lusty wantons . Ciceres . Chiches of England are very hard and unwholesome ; but in Italy and France there is a kind of red Chich , yeelding a sweet , fine and nourishing flour : whereof thick pap or pottage being made with sugar , you shall hardly find any grain or pulse of comparable nourishment ; as my most honourable good Lord , the Lord Willoughby of Eresby , in his most dangerous consumption did well testifie . Perhaps this broth was that , for a mess whereof Esau sold his birth-right ; for no pulse but this maketh a red pottage . Pisa . Pease are not fully so windy as Beans , and also of better nourishment , because they are less abstersive . French-pease , Hasty pease , and Gray-pease , be the tenderest and sweetest of all others ; for the common field-pease or green-pease is too hard of digestion for indifferent stomachs . Take the youngest , and seeth them thoroughly , butter them plentifully , and season them well with salt and pepper ; so will they prove a light meat , and give convenient nourishment in Summer time . Lentes . Lentiles were so prized in Athenaeus time , that one wrote a whole treatise in their commendation ; and Diogenes commended them above all meats to his Scholers , because they have a peculiar vertue to quicken the wit. Let us ( for shame ) not discontinue any longer this wholesome nourishment , but rather strive to find out some preparation , whereby they may be restored to their former or greater goodness . CHAP. XXV . Of the Variety , Excellency , Making , and true use of Bread ▪ The dignity and necessity of Bread. BRead is a food so necessary to the life of man , that whereas many meats be loathed naturally , of some persons , yet we never saw , read , nor heard of any man that naturally hated bread . The reasons whereof I take to be these . First because it is the staff of life , without which all other meats would either quickly putrifie in our stomachs , or sooner pass thorough them then they should , whereupon crudities , belly-worms and fluxes do arise to such children or persons , as either eat none or too little Bread. Again , Neither flesh , fruit nor fish are good at all seasons , for all complexions , for all times , for all constitutions and ages of men ; but Bread is never out of season , disagreeing with no sickness , age , or complexion , and therefore truely called the companion of life . No child so young but he hath Bread , or the matter of Bread in his pap : no man so weak , but he eats it in his broth , or sucks it out of his drink . It neither enflameth the cholerick , nor cooleth the phlegmatick , nor over-moistneth the sanguin , nor drieth the melancholick . Furthermore it is to be admired ( saith Plutarch ) that Bread doth of all other things best nourish and strengthen both man and beast ; insomuch that with a little Bread they are enabled for a whole dayes journey , when with twise as much meat they would have fainted . Wherefore it was not a small threatning , when God said he would break the staff of bread ; without which our meat giveth no strength ( as I said before ) but either corrupteth in the stomach , or is converted to slimy crudities ; we may also remember , that of all compound meats it is the first of all mentioned in the Scripture , namely in the third of Genesis ; where God threatneth Adam that in the sweat of his browes he should eat his bread . Again in the Lords Prayer we ask for all bodily nourishment in the name of Bread , because Bread may be justly called the meat of meats , as without whom there is no good nor substantial nourishment . The Italians have a Proverb , That all troubles are easie with bread , and no pleasure pleasant without Bread. Signifying thereby , our lives to consist more in Bread , then in any other meat whatsoever , To conclude , when Christ would describe himself unto us whilst he lived , and leave a memorial unto us of himself after death : his wisdome found no Hieroglyphical character wherein better to express himself ( the only nourisher and feeder of all mankind ) then by the sight , taking and eating of Bread : so that I may boldly prefer it above all nourishment , being duely and rightly used , as agreeing with all times , ages , and constitutions of men , either sick or sound ; which cannot be verified of any one nourishment besides . Upon which and some other things , arose these questions and sayings , Whether eating of crusts of Bread , and sinews of flesh , make a man strong ? Whether Ashes be Physick , and mouldy Bread clear the eyesight ? Mony and Bread never brought plague . Bread and Cheese be the two targets against death . The Authors and Inventers of Bread. Who was the first Authour or Inventer of making Bread , I will not take upon me to determine . Pliny ascribeth it to Ceres ; who seeing what hurt came to men by eating of Acorns , devised a means how to pound Corn into Meal , and then to work , form and bake it into loaves and cakes . Pausanias ascribeth it to Arcas , Iupiter , and Calistoes son . But without all question Adam knew it first , whosoever was the first that made it ; yea sith it is the strengthner of life , no doubt as he and his son knew how to sow Corn , so they were not ignorant or unpractised in the chiefe use thereof . The differences of Bread. Concerning the differences of Bread , some are taken from the meats we eat ; for the Romans had panem Ostrearium , which they onely did eat with Oisters . They had also their dainty Bread , made with hony , spice and flour : they had also a hasty cake , called panis speuticus learned first in Greece ; likewise their bread differed in baking , some being baked upon the hearth , others broild it upon gridirons , others fried it like pancakes , others baked it in ovens , others sod it in seam like fritters ; others boild it in water like cimnels , being called panes aquatici ; which the Parthians taught them . But the chiefe differences are in the variety of matter , whereof they consist ; and the variety of goodness , which I will declare in order . Some Countries ( where Corn was either never sown at all , or being sowed cannot prosper ) make bread of such things made into meal as their soil yeeldeth . The Oritae , Green landers and North-Icelanders make it of dried fish , which being thorough dried in the Sun , they beat it first with hammers , then pound it with pestils , and form cakes with water , which they tost at their fires , made onely of great fishes bones ( for they have no wood ) and eat it instead of Bread ; yet live they well , and look well , and enjoy pleasures ( saith Hector Boethius in his Scottish History ) abounding in children , strength and contentment , though not in wealth . The Brasilians make Bread of the root of a herb ressembling Purcelane , and of the barks of trees as Osorius writeth ; whom I may believe , because I have eaten of the same Bread , brought home by Sir Francis Drake . The most part of Egyptians make Bread of Lotus seed , resembling poppy : but they which dwell by the River Astupas made it of dried roots beaten to pouder , which they formed like a Tilestone , and baked it hard in the Sun. Like Bread made the Thracians of Tribulus or water-nut roots , and the Arabians of Dates . But the best is made of Graine , which the Romans for 600 years after their City was built , had not yet learned : and was not afterwards publikely practised by bakers , till the Persian wars . As for wheaten bread it was so rare in Caesars time , that none knew how to make it save his own Baker . And again white manchet was so hard to come by in the Grecian Courts , that Lucian protested a man could never get enough of it , no not in his dream . Spiced Bread was more ancient ; for Diogines loved it above all meats , and Hippocrates and Plato make mention of it . Brown-bread was used in Philoxenus his age and long before ; who having eaten up all the White-bread at the Sophists table , one set him a great brown-loaf on the table , on whom he bestowed this jest : Ho la ! not too much , not too much good fellow , least it be night too soon . Thus much of the ancient making of Bread ; now let us consider . The usual mattter of Bread. First , whereof Bread is made in our daies , Secondly how it is made , Thirdly when , and in what order , Fourthly in what quantity it is to be eaten . Touching the first : Bread is usually made of Rye , Barly , Oates , Missellin or pure Wheate ▪ Rye-bread is cold and of hard concoction , breeding wind and gripings in the belly , engendring gross humours , being as unwholesome for indifferent stomachs , as it agreeth with strong bodies and labourious persons ; yet openeth it , and cureth the hemorrhoids . Barly ▪ Bread is little or nothing better , being tough and heavy of digestion , choking the small veins , engendring crudities , and stuffing the stomach . Oaten-bread is very light being well made , more scowring then nourishing if the Oat-meal be new , and too much binding if it be old . Howbeit Oates in Greece are recorded to be so temperate , that they neither stir nor stay the belly . Misslin or Munckcorn-bread , made of Rye and Wheate together , is esteemed better or worse , accordingly as it is mingled more with this or that grain . But of all other Wheaten-bread is generally the best for all stomachs , yet of so stopping a nature ▪ if it be too fine , because it is of best temper , and agreeth with all natures and complexions Things to be observed in the well making of Bread. Concerning the well making whereof , we must have great choice and care . 1. Of the Wheate it self . 2. Of the Meal . 3. Of the Water . 4. Of the Salt. 5. Of the Leven . 6. Of the Dough or Past . 7. Of the Moulding . 8. Of the Oven . 9. Of the baking . All which circumstances I most willingly prosecute to the ful , because as Bread is the best nourishment of all other , being well made , so is it simply the worst being marred in the ill handling . 1. Concerning the Wheate , it must be thorough ripe ere it is gathered , two months old ere it be thrashed , and a month or two old after that ( at the least ) ere it be grinded . Chuse ever the yellowest without , and smoothest , growing in a hot and fat soil , hard , white and full within , clean thrasht and winowed , then clean washt and dryed , afterwards grosly grinded ( for that makes the best flour ) in a Mill wherein the grind-stones are of French Marble , or some other close or hard stone . 2. The Meal must neither be so finely grinded ( as I said ) least the bran mingle with it , nor too grosly , least you lose much flour , but moderately gross , that the Bran may be easily separated , and the fine Flour not hardly boulted . You must not presently mould up your meal after grinding , lest it prove too hot ; nor keep it too long lest it prove fusty and breed worms , or be otherwise tainted with long lying . Likewise though the best manchet ( called panis Siligineus of Pliny ) be made of the finest flour ▪ passed through a very fine boulter , yet that Bread which is made of courser Meal ( called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of the Grecians ) is of lighter digestion and of stronger nourishment . 3. The Water must be pure , from a clear River or Spring : not too hot least the Dough cling , nor too cold least it crumble , but lukewarm . 4. The Salt must be very white , finely beaten , not too much nor too little , but to give an indifferent seasoning . 5. The Leaven must be made of pure Wheate , it must not be too old least it prove too soure , nor too new least it work to no purpose , nor too much in quantity , least the Bread receive not a digesting but a fretting quality . Where by the way note , that loaves made of pure Wheaten-meal require both more leaven and more labouring , and more baking , then either course cheate , or then Bread mingled of meal and grudgins . In England our finest Manchet is made without Leaven , which maketh Cheate Bread to be the lighter of both , and also the more wholesome ; for unleavened Bread is good for no man. 6. The Dough of white Bread must be throughly wrought , and the manner of moulding must be first with strong kneading , then with rouling to and fro , and last of all with wheeling or turning it round about , that it may sit the closer ; afterwards cut it slightly in the midst round about , and give it a slit or two thorough from the top to the bottome with a small knife , to give a vent every way to the inward moisture whilst it is in baking . 7. The Loaves should neither be too great nor too little : for as little Loaves nourish least , so if the Loaves be too great , the Bread is scarce thoroughly baked in the midst : wherefore the Francklins Bread of England is counted most nourishing , being of a middle sise , between Gentlemens Roules or little Manchets , and the great Loaves used in Yeomens houses . 8. The Oven must be proportionable to the quantity of Bread , heated every where alike , and by degrees ; not too hot at the first , lest the outside be burnt and the in-side clammy ; nor too cold , lest the Bread prove sad and heavy in our stomachs . 9. Last of all Concerning the baking , it must not stay too long in the Oven , least it prove crusty , dry and cholerique ; nor too little a while , for fear it be clammy and of ill nourishment , fitter to cram Capons and Poultry , then to be given to sick or sound men . Bread being thus made , strengtheneth the stomach , and carrieth truly with it the staff of nourishment . Iupiters Priests ( called Flamines Diales ) were forbidden to eat either Meal or Leaven by themselves , yet might they eat of leavened Bread and none other . The reason whereof is alledged by Plutarch . They might eat no Meal , because it is an imperfect and raw nourishment ; being neither Wheate which it was , nor Bread which it should be ; for Meal hath lost ( which it had ) the form of Grain , and wanteth ( which it is to have ) the form of Bread. They might eat no Leaven , because Leaven is the Mother and Daughter of corruption , souring all if it be too much , and distasting all if it be too little : but when a just proportion is kept betwixt them both , Leaven corrects the Meals imperfection , and Meal resisteth Leavens corruption , making together a well rellished mass ( called Bread ) which is justly termed the staff of life . As for Bunns made with Eggs and Spices , as also for Sugar-cakes , Wafers , Simnels and Cracknels , and all other kind of delicious stuff , wherein no Leaven cometh ; I will not deny them a medicinable use for some bodies , but if they be usually and much eaten , they rather help to corrupt then to nourish our bodies . Of the age of Bread. Touching the age of Bread , As the Egyptians Bread made of Lotus seed is never either good or light till it be hot ; so contrariwise all Bread made of Grain is never good till it be fully cold . Hot Bread is exceeding dangerous swimming in the stomach procuring thirst , most hardly digesting , and filling the body full of wind . Neither yet must it be too old and dry , for then it nourisheth nothing , dryeth up the body , encreaseth costiffness , and very hardly passeth from out the stomach . Of the use of Bread. Last of all , Concerning the use of Bread , it consisteth in the quality , quantity , and timely taking of it . The inmost crumbs of bread are most nourishing , and fittest for hot and cholerick persons ; contrariwise the crumbs next the crust are fittest for phlegmatick dispositions , unto whom sometimes we allow the crust it self , or else the crumbs tosted at the fire . Leavened Bread is also most convenient for weak stomachs , because it is soonest digested ; but if it be too much Leavened , it anoieth them as much in gripings of the belly and spleen-swellings . It is questioned by some , Whether Children should eat much Bread without Meat , aut contra . Now Bread ( so it be not newer then one day ) is most nourshing , but old Bread ( as I said before ) is most drying . Concerning the quantity of Bread , we are to understand : that as Drink is necessary to hasten meat out of the stomach when it is concocted , so Bread is as needfull to hang it up , and stay it in the stomach till it be concocted . For if we eat flesh , fish or fruit without Bread , it will either return upward ( as it fareth in Dogs ) or beget crudities and worms ( as it hapneth to greedy Children ) or turn to most cruel fluxes , as it falleth out in the Time of Vintage , and at the gathering of Fruit , when many Grapes , or Apples , or Plums be eaten without Bread. Nevertheless over-much Bread is as hurtful , yea the surfeiting of it is more dangerous then of any meat . For flesh ▪ fruit or fish , being immoderately taken , are quickly corrupted into a thin substance , which nature may easily avoid ; but the surfet of Bread is incorrigible , remaining so dry , hard , and tough in the stomach , that it will neither be voided upward , nor downward without great difficulty , resisting the operation of any medicine , stopping the veins , and dawbing as it were the bowels ( otherwise sensible enough , and ready to be stirred with the least Physick ) with a slimy and viscous morter . Eat therefore no more then to make a convenient mixture of meat and drink ; for as there must be a sufficient quantity of sand to combine lime and water together ; not too little ( lest the morter be too liquid ) nor too much ( lest it be tough ) but a certain proportion to be aimed at by the Plaisterer : so a due quantity of Bread maketh a perfect mass of nourishment , which else being too liquid would turn to crudities by passing over-timely into the guts , or being too thick would either putrifie at length , or at the least wax burdensom to the stomach and choke the veins . Note also this , that the more liquid and moist your meats are , so much the more Bread is required : but the more dry and solid they are , the more Drink is to be taken and the less Bread. Last of all , to speak somewhat of the time , and order to be observed in the eating of Bread : Howsoever Antoninus that holy Emperour of Rome , did make his breakfast onely of dry Bread , and then presented himself to all suiters till dinner time : we must conceive , first that he was Rhumatick through his night watchings and great studying . Secondly , that he was old and subject to the Dropsie : otherwise he was foolish to prescribe himself that Diet , or his Physicians mad that perswaded him to it . For as first lime , and then sand are mingled with water , so first Meat , then Bread should be eaten together , and afterward drink should be poured on like water to mingle them both . Socrates said truly , that some fools do use Bread as Meat , and some use Meat as Bread. For some will break their fast with Bread , which commonly is dangerous : others will eat at Dinner a little Meat and too much Bread , which is almost as unwholesome : others will end their Meals with drink and meat , when reason and experience sheweth , that the upper mouth of our stomach is best closed up with Bread and dryness ; in the sealing and closing up whereof perfectness of concoction doth greatly consist . Cyrus the greater , being asked dayly by his Stuard , what he should provide for his Supper , never gave him other answer then this , Onely Bread : shewing us thereby , that as our breakfast must be of the moistest meats , and our Dinners moderately mingled with driness and moisture ; so our Suppers should be either onely of of Bread , or at the most of meats as dry as Bread ; especially in these Islands and moist Countries , so subject to rhumes and superfluous moistures . CHAP. XXVI . Of Salt , Sugar , and Spice . THere was a sect of Philosophers called Elpistici , commending Hope so highly above all vertues , that they termed it the sawce of life ; as without which our life were either none at all , or else very loathsom tedious and unsavory . May I not in like manner say the like of Salt ▪ to which Homer giveth the title of Divinity , and Plato calleth it Jupiters Minion ? for tell me to what meat ( be it flesh , fish or fruit ) or to what broth Salt is not required , either to preserve season or rellish the same ? Nay bread the very staff and strength of our sustenance , is it not unwholesom , heavy and untoothsom some without Salt ? Wherefore in the same Temple Neptune and Ceres ever stood together , because no Grain is good unsalted , be it never so well spiced or sugared , or otherwise artificially handled . Besides this , the famous Warriours in old time , accustomed to hard and sparing Diet , howsoever voluntarily they eschewed flesh and fish as meats too delicate for Souldiers stomachs , living onely upon bread , onions , leeks , garlick , town-cresses and roots , yet they did eat Salt with every thing , as without the which nothing was deemed wholesome . And truly what is flesh but a peece of carrion and an unsavory carcass , till Salt quickens graces and preserves it , infusing thorough out it ( as it were ) another soul ? what is fish but an unrellished froth of the water , before Salt correcteth the flashiness thereof , and addeth firmness ? yea milke , cheese , butter , eggs , tree-fruit , garden fruit , field-fruit , finally all things ordained and given for nourishment , are either altogether unwholesome without Salt , or at the least not so wholesome as otherwise they would be . Plutarch moveth a question in his Natural Disputations , why Salt should be so much esteemed , when beasts and fruits give a rellish of others tastes , but none of Salt ? For many meats are fatty of themselves , Olives are bitterish , and many fruits are sweet , many soure , divers astringent , some sharpe , and some harsh ; but none are salt of their own nature : what should be gathered of this ? that the use of salt is unnaturall or unwholesome ? nothing less . It is enough for nature to give us meat , and elsewhere to give us wherewith to season them . And truly sith Salt may either be found or made in all Countries , what needed fruit , flesh , or fish to have that taste within them , which out wardly was to be had at mans pleasure . Now if any shall object unto me the Egyptian Priests , abstaining wholly from Salt ( even in their bread & eggs ) because it engendereth heat and stirreth up lust : Or Apollonius ( Herophilus his Scholer ) who by his Physicians counsel abstained wholly from any thing wherein Salt was , because he was very lean , and grew to be exceeding fat by eating hony-sops and sugared Panadoes : I will answer them many wayes , and perhaps sufficiently . First , that long custome is a second nature , and that it had been dangerous for the Egyptian Priests to have eaten Salt , which even from their infancy they never tasted . Again , whereas it was said , that they abstained from it for fear of lust , no doubt they did wisely in it ; for of all other things it is very effectual to stir up Venus , whom Poets fain therefore to have been breed in the Salt Sea. And experience teacheth , that Mice lying in Hoyes laden from Rochel with Salt , breed thrice faster there , then if they were laden with other Merchandize . Huntsmen likewise and Shepherds seeing a slowness of lust in their Dogs and Cattle , feed them with Salt meats to hasten coupling ; and what maketh Doves and Goats so lusty and lacivious , but that they desire to feed upon salt things ? Finally remember , that lechery ( in Latin ) is not idlely , or at adventure termed Salaritas , Saltishness ; for every man knows that the salter our humours be , the more prone and inclinable we are to lechery : As manifestly appeareth in Lazars , whose blood being over salt , causeth a continual tickling and desire of venery , though for want of good nourishment they perform little . Wherefore whosoever coveteth to be freed of that desire with the Egyptian Priests ( which is an unnatural thing to covet ) let them altogether abstaine from Salt in every thing ; but look how much they gain in impotency that way , so much they lose of health another way . For as sheep feeding in salt Marshes never dye of the rot and be never barren , but contrariwise are rotted as well as fatted in fresh pastures : so likewise whosoever moderately useth Salt shall be freed of putrifaction and stoppings , and live long in health ( no disorder being elsewhere committed ) when they which wholly abstain from it both in bread and meat , shall fall into many diseases and grievous accidents , as did Apollonius himself for all his fatness ; and as it hapned to Dr. Penny , who after he had abstained certain years from Salt , fell into divers stoppings , cruel vomitings , intolerable headache and strange migrams , whereby his memory and all inward and outward senses were much weakned . Remember here , That I said whosoever moderately useth Salt ; for as wholly to refuse it causeth many inconveniencies , so to abuse the same in excess is no less dangerous , engendring choler , drying up natural moisture , enflaming blood , stopping the veins , hardning the stone , gathering together viscous and crude humours , making sharpness of urine , consuming the flesh and fat of our bodies , breeding salacity and the colt evil , bringing finally upon us scabs , itch , skurfe , cankers , gangrena's and foul leprousies . They which are cold , fat , watrish and phlegmatick , may feed more plentifully on salt and salt-meats then other persons : but cholerick and melancholick complexions must use it more sparingly , and sanguineans must take no more of it , then lightly to rellish their unsavory meat . Our Wiches in Cheshire afford so good Salt ( through God's singular Providence and mercy towards us ) that I am eased of a great labour in shewing the differences of salt . Onely thus much I leave to be noted , that Bay-salt is best to make brine of , but our white salt is fittest to be eaten at table . Finally sith not onely we in England , but also all other Nations , yea the old Romans and Grecians ( as Pliny and Alexander remember ) placed Salt ever first at the Table , and took it last away ( insinuating thereby the necessary use thereof with all kinds of meats ) let us conclude with the Scholers of Salern , in good rhime and better reason . Sal primo debet poni , non primo reponi , Omnis mensa male ponitur absque sale . Here I might speak of Sal Sacerdotale Aetii , called the Priests Salt , mingled with many sweet herbs and spices to preserve meats : as also of Chymical Salts drawn from wormwood , cinamon , cloves , guajacum and other infinite simples ; but sith they are rather medicinable then belonging to ordinary diet , I have reason to omit them . Now if any will mervail , why I should write thus much in the commendation of Salt , when by general consent of Writers it is not nourishing : I answer , That it is , and that not onely accidentally , in making our meat more gracious to the stomach , hindring putrefaction , and drying up superfluous humours ; but also essentially in it self , being taken in his just and due proportion . For our bodies hath and should have humours of all tastes ; yea the firmest element of our body is nothing but Salt it self , and so termed by the best ( though the newest ) Philosophers ; which will hardly be preserved without eating of Salt. Hence comes it that Souldiers , Sea ▪ men and Country-labourers , accustomed to feed usually upon hang'd ▪ Beef , Salt-bacon , and salt fish , have a more firm flesh and greater strength then ordinary Citizens and dainty Gentlemen . And if Salt-meats ( not over-salted ) be generally held to give the best nourishment , why should we deny that Salt nourisheth ? A Woman eating much salt when she is with Child , bringeth forth a Child without Nailes . Salt in pottage is forbidden in hot agues . They which eat much Salt and Vinegar have burnt livers , and live unsound . Of Sugar . Sugar or Suchar is but a sweet , or ( as the Ancients term it ) an Indian Salt. The best Sugar is made of the tears or liquor of Sugar canes , replenished so with juice that they crack againe . Other sorts are made of the Canes themselves finely cut , and boiled so long in water , till all their gumminess gather together at the bottome , as Salt doth in Cheshire at Nantwich . The best Sugar is hard , solid , light , exceeding white and sweet , glistring like snow , close and not spungy , melting ( as salt doth ) very speedily in any liquor . Such cometh from Madera in little loaves , of three or four pound weight apeece : from whence also we have a courser sort of Sugar-loves , weighing seven , eight , nine or ten pounds apeece , not fully so good for candying fruits , but better for syrups and Kitchin uses . Barbary and Canary Sugar is next to that , containing twelve , sixteen and seventeen l. weight in a loafe . But your common and course Sugar ( called commonly St. Omers Sugar ) is white without , and brown within , of a most gluish substance , altogether unfit for candying or preserving , but serving well enough for common syrups and seasoning of meat . Of the pouder of which Sugar our cunning Refiners make such white and glorious Sugar in shew , that albeit it be neither sweet , light nor kindly , yet they feel an unspeakable sweetness by that art , or rather trade , or rather mystery , or rather ( if I am not mistaken ) flat couzenage and apparent knavery . Concerning the uses of this worthy and sweet Salt ; they are many and good . For whereas hony is hurtful to cholerick complexions , Sugar is incommodious or hurtful unto none ; yea it is so mild and temperate , that Galen doth not disallow it to be given in agues . Furthermore it nourisheth very plentifully , yea it maketh many things to become exceeding good meat ( by conditing , preserving and conserving ) as Citrons , Limons , Orenges , Nutmegs , Ginger & such like , which of their own nature do rather hinder nourishment and procure leanness . Besides this , it delighteth the stomach , pleaseth the blood and liver , cleanseth the brest , restoreth the lungs ( especially being candied ) taketh away hoarseness , and asswageth drought in all agues , giving also no small ease to enflamed kidneys , and to bladders molested with sharpness of urine . Sugar keepeth Children from engendring of worms , but being engendred , maketh them stir . It were infinite to reherse the necessary use of it in making of good gellies , cullises , mortesses , white-broths , and restorative pies and mixtures : which sith cooks do and ought chiefly to practice , I will not further usurpe upon their province ; onely say , Sugar never marred sawce . Of Spices . Spices are properly called such sweet and odoriferous simples , as are taken from trees , shrubs , herbs , or plants ; whereof some are growing in England or home ▪ bred , others fetcht from far Countries , cal'd Outlandish spices . Homebred spices are these , Aniseed , Dill , Fennel-seed , Alcost , Commin , Carawayes , Clary , Corianders , dried Mints , dried Nep , dried Origanum , Parsly-seed , dried Gilly-flowers , roots of Galinga and Orris , dried Primroses ▪ Pennirial , Rosemary , Saffron , Sage , Oke of Ierusalem Bay berries , Iuniper-berries , Sothernwood , Tansie , Tamarisk , Time , dried Wal-flowers , Violets , Varvein , Wintersavory , Wormwood , and such like . Outlandish Spices are these chiefly , Lignum Aloes , Foleum Indicum , Cinamon , Ginger , Mace , Cloves , Pepper , Nutmegs , Pills of Citrons , Limons and Orenges , Grains , Cubebs , and Saunders , &c. which being no nourishment of themselves , and serving onely to Physick uses , I rather ought to send you to the Herbals of Lobelius , Dodonaeus , Clusius , Turner , and Bauhinus , ( where at large you may hear of their vertues ) then to stand here upon them any longer in my Treatise of nourishments . Wherefore let it be sufficient for me to have set down their temperatures in the fifth Chapter of this Treatise ; and now let me proceed to discourse of Sawces : wherein ( as occasion serveth ) I will somewhat enlarge my Treatise of Spices , which I might have handled in this Chapter . CHAP. XXVII . Of the necessary use and abuse of Sawces , and whereon they consist . PLutarch bouldly affirmeth that the Ancients knew never any sawces but two , Hungar and Salt : calling that the night , and this the light of sawces : for as in the night all colours be alike , so nothing is unsavory to a hungry stomach : and as the light discerneth colours , so salt sheweth the variety and excellency of all tastes . Proof hereof we have usually at our Tables , where having tasted of vinegar or soure fruit , or eaten much sweet meats ▪ the best wine is presently distasted after it , and the goodness thereof undiscerned till a little salt be eaten . Concerning Hunger , I yeeld unto Plutarch , for without that even salt and vinegar and every thing is unsavory , according as it is written of the Cooks of Athens ; who vaunting by their divers pickles , sawces , pouders and mixtures to procure any man an appetite , yet in the end they found it true , that the best sawce is loathsome without hunger . Dionisius also supping once ( after Hunting ) with the Lacedaemonians , most highly extolled their black-broth ; afterwards eating of the same another time , without exercise premised , he did as deeply dispraise it . The like we read of Ptolomy in Platina , and of Socrates in Tullies Tusculanes , who walked ever before Meat a mile or two , to buy him this sawce of hunger Anacharsis was wont to say , that dry ground is the best Bed , a skin hardned with exercise the best garment , and natural hunger the best sawce : which addition of this word natural cleareth the question ; for over-much hunger tasteth nothing better then overmuch satiety , the one loathing good things because of fulness , the other commending bad things because of emptiness . As for Salt , the second sawce of the Ancients , I have already enough commended it in the former Chapter : nevertheless it is not sufficient , nay it is not convenient for all stomachs . For even old times afforded two sawces , Salt and Vinegar , the one for hot stomachs , the other for cold , knowing well enough that appetites are not procured in all men alike , because want of appetite ariseth from divers fountains . Plutarch raileth mightily against sawces and seasonnings , avouching them to be needless to healthful persons , and unprofitable to the sick , because they never eat but when they are hungry , and these ought not to be made hungry , lest they oppress nature by eating too much . But I deny both his arguments ; for as many sound men abhor divers things in their health roasted , which they love sodden ; so likewise they love some things seasoned after one fashion , which seasoned or sawced after another fashion they cannot abide , no though they be urged unto it by great hunger . As for them that be sick , whosoever dreameth , that no sick man should be allured to meat by delightful and pleasant sawces , seemeth as froward and fantastical as he that would never whet his Knife . And tell me I pray you , why hath nature brought forth such variety of herbs , roots , fruits , spices and juices fit for nothing but sawces , but that by them the sound should be refreshed , and the sick men allured to feed upon meat ? for whom an overstraite abstinence is as dangerous , as fulness and satiety is inconvenient . All which I write , not to tickle the Epicures of our age , who to the further craming of their filthy corps , make curious sawces for every meat ; or to force appetite daily where no exercise is used : for as Morris-dancers at Burials make no sport , but rather give cause of further lamenting ; so appetites continually forced weaken a diseased stomach , either making men for a time to eat more then they should , or else afterwards bereaving them of all appetite . Socrates compared the over-curious seasoning of meat , and these Epicurean sawce-makers to common Courtisans curiously painted and sumptuously adorned , before they entertain their lovers ; whereby they stir up new lust in withered stocks , and make even the gray-headed spend and consume themselves . Even so ( saith he ) these new found sawces , what are they but Whores to edge our appetite , making us to feast when we should fast , or at least to feed more then nature willeth ? Also he resembleth them to tickling under the sides and arm-pits , which causeth not a true & hearty , but rather a convulsive and hurtful laughter , doing no more good to pensive persons , then hard scratching is profitable to a scald head , wherein yet it delighteth to his own hurt . There is a notable Hystory written of Alexander and Queen Ada , who purposing to present the Conquerour with her best jewels , sent him two of her best sawce-makers , to season and dress his meat , commending their skill exceedingly in her Letters : But Alexander having bountifully rewarded them for their travail , returned them with this message , that he had along time entertained two for that purpose , which made him better sawce to his meat , then any other could make in his judgment ; namely , Nyctoporia Night-marching , who ever got him a stomach to his Dinner , and Oligaristia littledining , who ever procured him a stomach to his Supper . Shewing thereby that exercise before Dinner and Supper are the best sawce-makers , because they bring forth hunger , which tasteth ( yea which causeth us also to digest ) all things . And verily for strong and able persons , what need we prescribe more sawces then exercise and hunger ? Nevertheless because many mens trade of life , and estate of health is such , that either they cannot exercise themselves abroad , or else are not able thorugh weakness to do it at home ( whereupon want of appetite and want of digestion , the onely founders of sawces must ensue ) it will not be amiss to set down some simples , which may be the matter of sawces for both those inconveniencies . The most usual and best simples whereof Sawces are made . If the stomach want appetite , by reason of cold and raw humours furring the same , and dulling the sense of feeling in the mouth thereof . Hot Sawces . Make sawce of Dill , fennel , mints , origanum , parsly , dryed gilli-flowers , galinga , mustardseed , garlick , onions , leeks , juniper-berries , sage , time , varvein , betony , salt , cinamon , ginger , mace , cloves , nutmegs , pepper , pills of citrons , limons and orenges , grains , cubebs , and such like , mingle some one , two , or three of them together , according as occasion most requireth , with wine or vinegar , strong of rosemary or gilly-flowers . Cold Sawces . Contrariwise wanteth your stomach appetite , through abundance of choler , or adust and putrified phlegm ? then restore it with sawces made of sorrel , lettice , spinache , purselane , or saunders ; mingled with vinegar , verjuice , cider , alegar , or water it self , or with the pulp of prunes , apples , currens and such like . As for digestion , it waxeth slow and weak , either because the stomach is too cold , or because the meat is of bad digestion which is put into it . Sawces for slow digestion . Cold stomachs must be quickned with sawces hot of spice ; and meats hard of digestion must be helped with hot things : therfore I commend the use of mustard with biefe , and all kind of salted flesh and fish ; and onion-saw with Duck , Widgin , Teal , and all water Foul ; salt and pepper with Venison , and galinga sawce with the flesh of Cygnets ; and garlick or onions boild in milk with a stuble Goose ; sugar and mustard with red Deer , Crane , Shovelar and Bustard . Sawces for temperate Meats . But for temperate Meats and speedy of digestion ( as Pork , Mutton , Lamb , Veal , Kid , Hen , Capon , Pullet , Chicken , Rabbet , Partridge , Pheasant , &c. ) we must likewise devise temperate sawces : as mustard and green-sawce for Pork , ▪ verjuice and salt for Mutton ; the juice of Orenges or Limons with wine , salt and sugar for Capons , Pheasants and Partridges ; water and pepper for Woodcocks ; vinegar and butter , or the gravet of roasted meat with Rabbets , Pigeons or Chickens ; for if their sawces should be either too cold , or too hot , such meats would soon corrupt in our stomachs , being otherwise most nourishing of their own nature . As for the just quantity and proportion of every thing belonging unto sawces and pickles , albeit Apicius took great pains therein , writing whole volums of that argument , yet few of those sawces agreed with most mens natures , and some of them perhaps ( if we might peruse those books ) were grounded upon little or no reason ; wherefore I leave the directing of them to particular Cooks , who by experience can best aime at every mans appetite , and know also sufficiently how to correct that flesh by Artificial preparation and appropriated sawce , which nature hath made queazy or heavy to indifferent stomachs . Some have put the question , Whether there be any sawce but appetite ? or whether it be good to use sawces ? CHAP. XXVIII . Of Variety of Meats , that it is necessary and convenient . PHilo a most excellent Physician having invited Philinus to Supper , entertained him with all kind of fowl , fish and fruit , killing also as many beasts , as if he had purposed to celebrate an Hecatombe : But his eloquent guest ( for he was counted the best Councellor at the Bar of Athens ) either to reprove his Friend , or to try his Oratory , accused him at the Table of a double trespass , the one against himself , the other against nature . Against himself , because he allured him to surfet by variety of dishes : against nature , because nature teacheth us to feed but upon meat , and yet Philo himself did feed upon many . But tell me Philinus ( for I am a Physitian likewise , and sworne to defend my Teachers no less then my Parents ) how is it an unnatural thing to feed upon many dishes ? Mary ( saith he ) nature teacheth us to feed upon that which will make us to remain longest in life and health ; wherefore if we would feed as beasts do upon some one thing , we should outlive them ; whereas now through our variety of dishes they outlive us . Again ; do not you Physitians ( being but Natures Ministers ) disswade men in agues from diversity of meats , bringing unto them only some one dish of a Chicken or Rabbet simply roasted or boiled , neither smelling nor tasting of any mixture , nor marred , or infected with variety of sawces ? Furthermore doth not the Diars Art instruct us , no colour to keep so long in cloth or silk , as that which is made by one simple ? And is not the sweetest oil marred by mingling , which being kept alone by it self would be ever fragrant ? even so fareth it likewise in meats , for any one meat of an indifferent constitution will be easily concocted , when many strive so one with another , whether of them shall go out formost into the guts , that one stayeth too long and is corrupted , whilst the other is not half changed . And tell me Philo ; why should it not be in meats as it is in wines ? doth not variety of wines make bad distribution , and cause drunkenness sooner then if we kept to one wine ? no doubt it doth ; else had the Law contra Allaenias been frivolous and vaine , precisely forbidding Vintners and Waiters at the Table to mixe one wine with another . Musicians likewise by tuning all their instruments into one harmony , plainly shew what hurt cometh by inequality and change of things . Socrates was wont to say ( whom the great Oracle of Apollo hath crowned for the wisest Grecian ) that variety of meats is like a common house of Courtisans , which with variety of faces , trickings and dressings rather empty then fill up Venus Treasury , kindling rather a flame to consume our lust , then giving a gentle heat to conserve our lives . Wherefore when the jars of crowders shall be thought good musick , and mingled wines allowed for wholesomness , and whorish allurements taken for preservers of life ; then will I also confess variety of dishes to be tollerable , and that one man at once may taste and feed safely of many dishes . In the mean time let me still commend the old Romans , who judged as ill of common Feasters , as of them which erected a bawdy-house : and give me leave to imitate Plato , who at a great feast fed on nothing but Olives , thinking one dish most wholesome where many are . Other Objections against Variety of Meats . Thus much said Philinus against Philo , as Plutarch writeth : whose Arguments I will then answer in order , when I have first given a further strength to his assertion , by other proofs and authorities that himself perhaps did never dream of , namely these . Rogatianus a noble Senator of Rome , having spent much mony in Physick to no good purpose , fed afterwards ( by his Friends advice ) never but upon one dish : whereby he was quit of his grief for many years . Epicurus also placing all felicity in health and pleasure , fed but sparingly and simply upon one dish , were it roots , apples , peares , plums or puls-pottadge ( for he never eat fish nor flesh ) also he did eate but one kind of Bread , and never drank but one sort of drink , were it wine or water . Iovinianus Pontanus being asked , why he never fed but upon one dish : I abstaine ( said he ) from many meats , that many , nay that all Physitians may abstaine from me . A Cook in Lacon being bidden by his Master to dress him a peece of flesh ; he asked of him Cheese and Oile to make the sawce ; to whom his Master answered : away fool , away ; if I had either Cheese or Oile , what needed I to have bought a peece of flesh ? whereby we perceive that in old times men fed onely upon one dish , thinking it folly to kill hunger with many meats , when it may be killed with one . Epaminondas also being invited to a friends house , seeing their variety of dishes , departed with these flouting speeches : I will not trouble thee , for I see thou art sacrificing to the Gods , not making a dinner to thy friend . And yet the tables of the ancient Gods ( being but indeed Divels ) had no great variety upon them : For when the Athenians did celebrate the great festivals of Castor and Pollux , their dishes were onely these , Cheese , Mace , Olives and Leeks ; afterwards when Solon ( to imitate Agamemnons example in Homer ) added a Spice-cake , he was rather counted a giver of ill presidents to men , then any whit the more bountiful to the Gods. The like may we say of the Romans , who offered first to their Gods no flesh nor fish , but a little Orchard and Garden-fruit ; and of the Egyptians whilst the Mameluks ruled over them ; and of the Carthaginians , whose famous quaternal Feast consisted onely of four dishes , Dry-figs , Ripe-dates , green-leeks , and sour milk . Nay to come nearer to our owne selves , the Scots ( ●our fellow-Islanders and northern-countrymen ) beginning the morning with a slender breakfast , did in old times fast till Supper , feeding then but onely of one dish , using generally so temperate a diet , that not Judges and Kings , but Philosophers and Physitians seemed to have given them precepts ; what need I remember , That Moschus Antimolus the great Sophister lived all his life time onely with figs , Stilpo only with garlick , Saint Genovefue the holy maide of Paris five and thirty years onely with Beanes , and Zoroaster ( that silverheaded Nestor ) twenty years in the wilderness onely with Cheese ? or that the Kings of Egypt fed never upon more meats , then either Veal or Goslings ? whereby we may understand that with one dish men lived a long and healthful life , and that variety of diseases sprang first from confusion and variety of meats . It is written of the Romans , that whilst their greatest feasts had but three dishes , the people were sound , healthful and sober ; but when Augustus the Emperor brought in three more , and permitted the Romans to have three in their houses , and six in their temple-feasts , his riot is said to have corrupted Rome and brought in Physick . Also whilst the Laconians had little dishes and little tables , so that they could neither have many guests , nor much meat at their board , thrift , wealth and health embraced one another ; afterwards all went to ruine when variety of dishes were admitted their boards enlarged , and after-courses induced by the Ionians . The people of Lituania were very frugall , laborious and healthful saith Aeneas Sylvius , till Switrigalus made them exceed by his owne example , who had no fewer then a hundred and thirty dishes at a meal : whereupon his owne life , and the happy estate of his subjects was soon shortned . What should I stand upon the Romans riot in Antoninus Geta , Commodus ( Adrians Son ) Vitellius and Heliogabulus , their dominions and times of governing the Empire ? when Dormise , timber-worms and snails were served for dainties ; when the livers of great fishes , the brains of Phesants and young Peacocks , the kernels of Lampreys ( brought by flyboats and light-horsemen out of Spain to Rome ) when infinite numbers of nightingales tongues , the brawnes of Kings-fishers , Pheasants-Combs , Peacocks-Gizards , and Wrens-livers , were made altogether into one Pie : when finally three courses came daily to Geta his boord , and as many dishes at each course as there be letters in the Alphabet . But what followed ? Marry infinite diseases , and infinit Physitians ; whereof some were so ignorant that they tormented the people worse then sickness ; in such sort that Galen , Herophilus , Erasistratus , and divers Greek Physicians were sent for to recover them , languishing and consumed almost with fevers , whereinto through excess and variety of meats they were justly fallen . So likewise fell it out with the Israelites , who in the wilderness longed first for the fish of Egypt , then for cucumbers , pompions , leeks , garlick and onions . Then being fed with Manna from heaven , they loathed it because it was but one meat . East of all Quailes came down , yet were they never satisfied with one meat were it never so good , coveting still change and variety were it never so bad : wherein both they and we shew plainly from what root we are first sprung . For when our first Parents might eat of all trees and fruits in Paradise , yet the shew , lure and desire of variety made them touch and taste the unbidden fruit . After the floud when flesh , fish and fruit were permitted to be indifferently eaten , and blood and fat onely forbidden yet we gather up the blood and fat of beasts to make us puddings , and abstain not ( for recovery of consumptions ) to suck the hot leaping and vital blood out of one anothers veins . Neither are we contented to feed ( as wise men should do ) upon wholesome meats , but we mingle with them venison of wild bears , the flesh of scabby Cuckoes , the spawne of Whales , Sturgians and Tunnies , and other very loathsom things , onely for varieties sake and delight of change . Licinius though he fed upon many dishes , yet he must end his meals with a Lamprey-pye . Lucius never supt without Oisters , nor Sergius without a Dorry : whereupon they were justly nicked by these names , Licinius Lamprey , Sergius Dorry , and Lucius Oisterman . Thus im-borne impiety engraffed by propagation from Adam and Eve , hath made us to lose the desire of unity in all things ; coveting variety of meats , drinks and women , yea of Gods and religion ; never contented with what is given for our good , but desirous of that which we snatch for our own hurt . An apology for variety of meats , answering the former objections . Hitherto I have spoken much from Philinus owne mouth , and more from mine own in his behalf , to oppugne the variety of meats : now read I pray you with the like patience , How I shall defend Philo against Philinus , and prove apparently that variety of meats is both at board , and in our stomachs , most agreeable to nature , and consequently beneficial to maintain us in health . First therefore Philinus abused our ears , in saying that all beasts feed onely upon some one kind of meat : For Eupolides his goats , yea and ours to , feed upon time , mints , hysope , heath , ivy , oken buds , beech , ash , mullen , chervil and tamarisk , and many other herbs differing no less in taste , smell , substance , and vertue one from another . What Shepheard is ignorant , that his flock feedeth upon filipendula , daisies , mouseare , cowslaps , lambs-tongue , milk-wort , Saxifrage and little mullen ? yet work they no worse effect in their stomachs , then if they had onely been fed with grass ; what should I speak of the Ostrich , which devoureth iron and pap together , and refuseth no meat , unless men had also an Ostriches stomach ? Onely let him serve to disprove Philinus avouching all beasts and birds to tye themselves as it were to one meat , and not to eat at once of divers nourishments . Secondly where it was affirmed , that brute beasts and birds out live men , because they are of a simpler diet ; I must pardon Philinus being a heathen , and ignorant of the Scriptures : wherein Methusalem and divers Patriarkes are registred to have lived longer , then any beast or bird whatsoever , called fitly of Homer by the name of Mortals , as upon whom more rots , murrens , aches , diseases and plagues do light , then usually happen unto men . Nay go to your Raven and Stag , those longestlivers of all the unreasonable breathers ; feeds not the Raven upon all flesh , eats not the Stag of all herbs , boughs and mast that comes in his way ? ye feedeth he not some times upon Snakes and Adders ? Thirdly , the Physitians giving of simple meats to aguish persons , proveth no more that variety is not good for most men , then that because Thersites can hardly carry his single speare , therefore Agamemnon shall not put on his compleat armour . Fourthly , the sedition and tumults foolishly feared , and rashly presupposed to be in meats of divers kinds , afflicting the stomach either at the time of concoction or digestion , that reason of all other is most unreasonable . For who would or can imagine , that Man the Epitome or Abstract of the whole world , in whom something of every thing ( to speak Platonically and yet truly ) is placed and inserted , could live ever , or long in health without variety of meats ? Hippocrates seeing such variety of simples rooted , sprouted and quickned upon the earth , gathereth thereupon very truly and learnedly , that there lye hidden in the earth all kinds of tastes , smells , liquors , and heats , and that it is not ( as some imagine ) a dry and cold dust , void of all tast , heat and moisture . Much more then may I justly avouch , that many meats may and do best agree with most mens stomachs , in whose bodies not onely firm flesh , but also thin blood , sweet phlegm , bitter gall , and sourish melancholy is necessary to be preserved : wherefore let hot meats , cold meats , moist meats , dry meats , bitter , meats , salt meats , light meats and heavy meats be mingled together in an indifferent stomach ( so that they be well prepared , orderly taken , and no error committed in time , measure and quantity ) no sedition or tumult will arise , no not so much as if the stomach had taken but one meat ; for ( according to that Oeconomical distribution of Empedocles ) Sweet straitwaies will it self to sweet apply , Sharp runs to sharpe , with gall doth bitter lye , Hot drinks and meats to fiery parts ascend , Whilst cold and moist to watry members tend . An no marvel , considering that natural heat ( like a good Stuard ) dissolveth the mass into a creamy substance , running thorough all himself , that he may give unto all their due nourishment . Wherefore sith this little world of ours was created full of variety , why should we tye our stomachs onely to fruit , fish , or flesh , when God in his goodness hath given us all of them ? Nay furthermore , sith man can digest more sorts of meats , stones and mettles ( being rightly prepared ) then either the Goat , Raven , or Ostrich , why should his power be bridled by any unnatural Edict , proceeding rather from the brain of a sensless head , then from the deep and mature judgment of any Physitian ? for sence teacheth us , that most compound bodies must feed upon divers meats , and that not variety but satiety , not quality but quantity , not simple taking , but unorderly taking of them , ( out of time , out of season , and out of their due place and proportion ) causeth that dissention and tumult in our bellies , whence all manner of dislikings or discontentments arise , and at which ( to use Hippocrates his words ) 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , Nature is distracted , troubled and ( as it were ) ●gnasheth her teeth . As for that Simile of Diars , and the other of Sweetoil , and the third of Musick ; they are all more childish , then worthy of an answer . For simple colours ( as white and black ) are not the purest , for then the skies should bear them ; yea the purest jewels give most variety of colours and lights in their own kind . And whereas cloth died with some one simple keepeth longest his colour in Philinus opinion , it is little material if it were true ; considering meat is not given to dye our bodies , but to be transformed into our substance . Again , though a sweet oil keepeth best his scent and perfection whilst it is unmingled , yet that disproveth not the necessity of mixtures , for whose sake simples were no less created , then Consonants and Vowels appointed to bring forth syllables : wherefore I laugh whilst others praise and extol , Guevarraes folly , who like another Erasistratus ( whom he Apishly followeth in many points ) complaineth of compound medicins , reducing all kind of agues to be cured with a plain Ptisan , a thin Cucumber milke , and a little water and oil mingled together . Foolish Bishop I deride thy ignorance , because thou deservest not to be pitied deriding others . Go to the little Bee , thou great Idiote ; and tell me if thou canst number , out of how many flowers hony is made . Hony I say , the sweetest meat , and best medicin of all others , yea the very quintesence ( as Isaac the Netherlander writeth ) and refined marrow of infinite wholsome and good vegitables . Can that imperfect Creature perfectly convert so many divers juices into one soveraign meat , and may not man ( the perfectest creature of all others ) do the like in his stomach , when he feedeth of many good and wholesome dishes ? As for Socrates his comparison ( whom Apollo himself termed the Prince of Sages ) I answer thus , What though variety be to the stomach , as choise of fair women in a Weak mans eye , causing more strong an appetite then reason or nature would ? By the same argument we might as well reprove cleanliness in handling , skill in seasoning , and handsomness or neatness in serving in our meats ; because when these concur we feed more largely ; which if it be a fault , let Philinus hereafter eat bread made of meal which was never boulted ; and parsneps and raddish never washt nor scraped ; let him eat of boil'd meat that was never scum'd , and of dry , lean birds ( such as Q. Curtius threw out at the window ) never basted , and of bitter Feldefares never drawn . But I ( and all wise men with me ) will consider , that as honesty and delight may be matcht together , so cleanliness and variety is no hindrance to a good stomach or good digestion , but rather an help and friend to both . Nay it fareth with our stomachs as it doth with Sailers ; who can easily pull in the sheet when they have too much wind , but cannot enlarge it when they have too little : for so likewise it is a small labour or cunning to kill appetite by onely seeing and feeding upon one dish , but to revive it being extinguished , or to sharpen it being dulled , requireth no little art , and consisteth chiefly in variety and well dressing of meats . Item to answer in a word , the law contra Alloenias ; I grant the thing , but I deny the equity : for what greater reason have we to mingle wine and water ( which was never forbidden but at drunken feasts ) then to mingle a tart wine with a pleasant , a temperate wine with a hot Sack , and a scowrer ( when occasion perswadeth ) with Alegant or a harsh binder ? therefore to return Philinus his owne Sword into his own bosome : as it is not unlawfull ( by the law of reason and nature ) nay as it is necessary and expedient to mingle wines for some persons : so variety of meats taken orderly at one meal , are lawful , necessary and expedient . Moreover ( to beat him again with his own Similes ) I confess all instruments of musick to be tuned to one Harmony : but being so tuned , if the Musicians play ever ( like the Cuckoe ) but one Song , will not the ear and head be wearied and offended ? nay will they not in time be both sick ? Can the eye see at once many objects , the ears hear many instruments playing together , & ( Philinus ) shal not the stomach as well concoct , keep and digest for the body many meats ? but when reason faileth , thou hast almost daunted Philo with inartificial arguments , drawn from antiquity , examples , customes , and sanctions of Senators . Now if by the like arguments I confirm Variety , I doubt not but like a Scholler I may cry quittance ▪ but if furthermore I confute thy Authorities , as being either falsified or unaptly applied , thou shalt live in my debt till the next Audit. Wherefore to begin with Rogatianus , albeit for many years he was delivered of the gout , yet Caelius avoucheth not that he was perfectly cured . And Epicurus though he fed but upon one dish at a meal , yet perhaps at every meal he fed on a several dish . Pontanus also was a weak and sickly man , to whom I confess many dishes ( especially being of contrary kinds or qualities ) are not to be permitted . Neither doth the Gentlemans answer in Lacon prove more the use then of one dish at a meal , then his Cooks demand inferreth the use and mingling of many meats . But if by the few dishes upon the Alters of heathen Gods , thou thinkest to prove that men at home feed onely upon one meat , thou art much deceived , for hereafter I will plainly demonstrate that they fed on many . As for the old Scotish custome , suppose it were true ; yet sure I am , that since King Arthurs dayes who lived years before Christ , their owne Chronicler recordeth them to have used great variety of dishes . That Moschus Antimolus lived onely with figs , it is no great marvel when he hated from his Cradel all other meat . Stilpo also fed onely on garlick , because his poverty was such that he could buy nothing else . As for Genovefue the holy made of Paris ; albeit I suspect Marulus for a common lier , yet he saith , that her feeding so long upon one dish consumed her body , and that upon the Bishops licence she was enforced to eat milk in Lent. Zoroaster was no doubt a most learned Philosopher , who if he lived twenty years in the Wilderness onely with one Cheese , no doubt it was some great Cheese like to Parmisan , full of variety , and not made of one but many milks . As for the monstrous riot of the Ionians , Lituanians , and latter Romans , drawn from the example and imitation of those wicked Princes and Emperours : I detest and abhor it as much as Philinus , ascribing unto excessive variety as many mischiefs of body and mind ; as temperate variety brings profit , health , refreshings and pleasures to them both . The Jewes murmuring doth as little please me , for though nature told them that one meat could not conveniently nourish every man , especially such as were accustomed fourty years together in Egypt to feed diversty ; yet when every man felt that one meat sent by God , did miraculously preserve man , woman and child , agreeing with all ages , times , persons and complexions , they ought to have been contented ; being as perfitly nourished with one dish , as any of us can be with many . Last of all , that example of Adam and Eve is most violently wrested against variety , whereas rather it is an argument against unity : for suppose they had at once tasted of all fruits in the garden , could they have been sick upon it ? no verily , but the tasting of one alone ( I mean the forbidden one ) was the parent and author of all diseases : wherefore the variety of wholesome meats set down by Physitians are not offensive , when one dish forbidden may prove dangerous : as I could prove by many reasons , did not experience clear it with her sun-shine . Now to answer examples also with examples ; though the Kings of Egypt had no great variety of dishes , yet that they ever fed on two at the least , Diodorus Siculus reports . And if the old Romans fed not diversly , why had they usually three dishes at their table ? The Persians though they had but few meats , yet they abounded in Salades and Junckets . The old Grecians contrariwise , used much meat and few Junckets : yea I read that Plato himself when Socrates and Menippus supped with him , had six several dishes at his table ( figs , peason , beans , whortleberries , roasted beech-nuts , and wafers in the end to close up their stomachs ) whereof they all fed , saving that Menippus set aside the wafercakes with his hand , saying ; that a sweet aftercourse makes a stinking breath : Another time I read , that Plato set before his loving friends and fellow Citizens olives , herb-salades , divers kinds of flesh and fish , and last of all new Cheese ; whereby any wiseman may gather , that the ancients fed upon many dishes of opposite kindes , and gratified their stomachs ( which every mans stomach coveteth ) with variety of meats . As for our owne Nation ( for whom chiefly I write this Treatise ) Hector Boethius avoucheth , that English men from before King Arthurs dayes , were accustomed to feed much and very diversly . And Paulus Iovius writeth thus . The whole nation of English men delight still ( as ever they did heretofore ) in feasting and making of good chear , eating much meat and of many sorts , prolonging their sittings with musick and merryments , and afterwards sporting themselves in set dances . Wherefore sith we are naturally desirous of many meats , and have stomachs above all other Nations , able to digest them ; and custome also hath confirmed our variety of dishes ( which cannot even in bad things be suddenly altered without a mischiefe ) I perswade strong and indifferent stomachs to continue their used Diet , feeding orderly and soberly of divers meats . Divers I say , but not too many ; for I like not ( Dubias Coenas ) the doubtful feasts of Cardinal Wolsey , nor the Abbot of Glastenburies Diet ( who were served with so many sorts of dainties that one might stagger and doubt where first to begin his dinner ) nor the ancient tables of London ; where ( as Diogenes said of Maronia ) every Citizens house ( in a manner ) was a cooks shop , till plenty of mouths made penury of provision , and dearth of Corne and Victuals lately taught them sobriety . Last of all where the Proverb saith , That many dishes make many diseases ; it hurteth not our position and defence of variety : for not diversity but multitude offendeth our stomachs , that is to say , more diversity of meats then they can well abide : accordingly as much meat hurteth not concoction , but that which is overmuch taken in too great a quantity , whereof we are now to discourse in the next Chapter . As for variety of meats in the time of sickness , let us hear what Galen saith . Diversity of meats are as necessary in sicknes ( if it be a compound sickness ) as variety of medicins . For a hot liver requireth a cooling meat , and a cold stomach that which is hot ; and if a mixt disease have made a mixed distemperature in any part , there divers and compounds meats be of necessity required . Otherwise many meats ( especially of contrary kind , substance and quality ) are most hurtful and tumultuous . Com. in 1. de vict . rat . in ac . cap 3. & 3. de vict . rat . in ac . cap. 35. & primo in Eund . cap. 18 whereby we may easily perceive , that variety of meats is permitted sometimes to the sick , yea though it be joined with contrariety of kinds . CHAP. XXX Of the quantity of Meats . THat saying of the wiseman , Eate not too much hony , sheweth unto us ; that even the most wholesome and nourishing meat of all other will prove dangerous and hurtful to our health , if it be not soberly and measurably eaten . Temperancy being not onely the carver , but also the commander at our tables . We find likewise several sayings recorded ; as , That we must eat by reason and not by appetite ; That straightgirding , makes little eating ; That in time of Famine , though we desire most , satiety is most perillous ; That in rainy weather little meat , little drink , and much exercise within doores is best ; That melancholy persons eat much , Cholerick drink much , Phelgmatick sleep much ; Great Livers , great Eaters , that a lean Woman , is a Tavern of blood ; That they which eate little , are never good Travailers . The Spaniard eats , the German drinks , and the English exceeds in both . Temperance what it is . But would you know what Temperancy is ? It is a vertue , timely , moderately and comely using those things , which be truely necessary and natural . For some things be both necessary and natural without which we cannot live , as Meat and Drink ; others natural but not necessary , without use of which many of us may live , and live in health , as Venus game : others necessary but not natural , as strong exercises for some bodies : others neither natural nor necessary , as over-curious Cookery , making fine meat of a whetstone , and quelque-choses of unsavory , nay of bad and unwholesome meat . There be two vices equally opposite to this vertue ; Surfeiting , when a man eateth more then either his stomach can hold or his strength digest ; and Self-pining , when we eate less then our nature craveth and is able to overcome . The first of them ( namely surfeiting and excess ) though it be a vice of all other most hurtful to the body and consequently noisome to the mind , yet we read that whole nations , and Emperors , and Potentates have both esteemed , and honoured and rewarded it for a vertue . For the Sicilians dedicated a Temple to Gluttony ; and Aristophanes writeth thus of the Barbarians , 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . Them onely men Barbarians think , That can devoure most meat and drink ▪ Of this crue was Maximinus the Emperour , who ( like our old Abby ▪ lubbers ) did eat till he sweat ; yea Sabellicus affirmeth , that his one dayes sweat gathered up in goblets , did amount to the measure of six Sextaries . Claudius Caesar and Vitellius the Emperour were like unto him , eating commonly so much , that they were forced once or twice in a meal to go out and vomit ; and then returned to the table again , giving a fresh charge to a forelorne stomach . And though Aurelianus the Emperour fed moderately himself , yet he exceedingly loved and honoured a great Gourmand , who usually at one meal did eat a Hogg ▪ two Weathers , and a whole Brawn , drinking upon it a whole firkin of wine poured down his throate thorough a funnel : Also Firmius Salencius did eat a whole Ostrich in a day : and Clodius Albinus ( Commander for the Romans in France ) is registred to have eaten at one sitting five hundred figs , one hundred Peaches , ten Musk-melons , twenty pound weight of Raysins of the Sun , one hundred Snites , ten Capons , and a hundred and fifty great Oisters . Neither was our Country alwaies void of a Woolmar , who living ( in my memory ) in the Court , seemed like another Pandareus , of whom Antonius Liberalis writeth thus much , that he had obtained this gift of the Goddess Ceres ; to eate Iron , glass , Oistershels , raw-fish , raw-flesh , raw-fruit ( and whatsoever else he would put into his stomach ) without offence ; yea as Monica Augustine's Mother was given to excess of wine , so himself ( such are even Godly mens imperfections at some times ) confesseth his own pronness and inclination to riot , in these words . O Lord , thou hast taught me to use meat not for lust and wantonness , but for life and health . Nevertheless when I sit down for refections sake , the snares of concupiscence and surfeit lie in my way like crafty fowlers , and the Maid presumeth above her Mistris ; so that it is doubtful , whether Necessity or Riot be commander , and hardly can Iresist Riots desire , no though it afterwards bringeth me to great pain . And no marvel , Augustine ; for from whence cometh soreness and weariness , heaviness of spirits , dulness of sences , stifness and pain of joints , unweldiness , belchings , crudities , fevers , distastings of meat , loss of appetite , and o her tempestuous evils , but from repletion , surfeiting and satiety ? what weakness of body cometh by excess of eating ; we need no more examples then this of our own Countrymen , which Boethius noteth ( in his Scotish History ) of King Arthur and his Knights ; who having recovered York from the Saxons and Picts in spight of their beards , kept there such a grand Christmas , that afterwards fighting again with the Saxons , his Souldiers were found so weakned with surfeiting , that their arrows could hardly peirce the Saxons furr d dubblets , being able before to strike thorough their iron armour . What Scholer hath not read of Herodotus , the minstril of Megara ( whose girdle in the wast was three yards and a half long ) or of Milo Crotoniates that great Pamphagus ? yet they died both very weak men and young , by oppressing strong nature with too heavy burdens . I he Stoicks imputed all diseases to age , but Erasistratus did not ill to ascribe , either all or most of them to excess : for if a man feed too much , three principal discommodities arise thereof . First , all natural spirits leave their several standings , and run headlong to the stomach to perfit concoction ; which if with all their forces they cannot perform , then brain and body are over-mastered with heavy vapours and humours ; but suppose they perform it , what followeth but foggy fat insteed of flesh ; or a the least , such abundance of both , that no soveraignty nor ability is left for the actions of the mind ? which ( as Menander well noteth in one of his Comedies . ) Desireth not to play with Swine , Nor dwells in hogsheads full of wine . For Heracletus was of a right opinion , that the wisest soul dwelleth in the emptie body ; which we may partly illustrate by these examples . The moist eye seeth worst ; the fullest vessel soundeth least , and the Sun hardly shineth thorough a clowdy aire : Even so in a full and troubled body , overpeised with variety and plenty of meats , the eye of our mind must needs be darkned , the voice of reason cannot be heard , and the Sun-shine of understanding cannot shine into our hearts , being destitute of will , and much more of ability to execute any thing that is good : Nay through surfeiting we live groveling and groping after base delights , as Hoggs do for Acornes , being disabled so much as to think a good thought . Hippocrates and Galen say , that the bodys of ordinary great feeders stand upon a dangerous point , or as you would say upon the Raysors edge ; for if they feed moderately , alteration of custome hazards their health : if they persist in excess , they are suddenly strangled with Apoplexies , as Caelius hath well noted . To prevent all which sicknesses both of body and mind , oh what severe and good laws were there made by Fannius Didius , Licinius Crassus , Cornelius Sylla , Lepidus , and Antius Restio against Riot ? yet the concord of vices so prevailed , that lust continued excess , excess brought forth unruliness , unruliness contempt of Government , whence came fatal destruction to the Roman Monarchy . The Scots punished their belly-gods in this sort ; first they filled their bellies as full of good meat as ever they could hold , then they gagged them , and threw them into the next river with their arms piniond , saying ; Now as thou hast eaten too much , so drink too much . Plutarch remembreth , that ( by the Athenians law ) whosoever did flay a living beast , he should be hang'd as a Felon , because they would not have a beast tormented ; which punishment if it were just ( as it seemed just in Xenocrates opinion ) then what pains ought they to endure , who by surfeiting not onely torture , but also most unnaturally seek to kill themselves , making their graves with their own teeth , flaying and unskinning themselves as it were of reasons robe , yea ensouling their bodies ( being dedicated Temples to the holy Ghost ) as much as in them lieth with the form of swine ? The second vice ( namely Self-pining ) is as far from Temperancy on the right hand , as surfeiting erreth on the left . SoZomenus maketh mention of a Munck in Caelosyria , called Battheus , fasting voluntarily so long , till his teeth were full of worms . And in the Legendary , S. Francis , S. Bennet , S. Rainulph , and divers other men , maids and women are highly extolled for consuming their bodies with excessive abstinence ; which being a thing against nature and Godliness ( which forbiddeth us to scourge or mark , and much more to consume our bodies ) it shall need no confutation at all , especially in this gluttonous age , wherein we are so far from any such fasting , that we wholly delight in Riot and Feasting . Onely let me say thus much out of Hippocrates , that a very thin and precise Diet is not to be prescribed to any one of indifferent health and strength ; no scarce to any ( except their disease be exceeding sharp ) which are very weak . For the prescribing of meat by drams or ownces , driveth many fears into a weak mans mind , taketh al alacrity from the heart , maketh ▪ a man jealous of his owne fingers , daring to eat nothing with chearfulness , because he ever suspecteth that he eateth too much . Hence came that golden Aphorism ( though not registred in his Aphorisms ) 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 ! An over-yeelding lengthneth the grief , But timely permission maketh it brief . As for Temperancy ( which I can never enough reverence or commend ) would to God it were as well practised of every particular man , as it is necessarily required to be in Physitians . First that by long life they may ( with Galen and Hippocrates ) get perfection in that art which they profess : whereas now many Physicians are buried under a Doctors name , before they ever tasted of Hygea her cup , or saluted Panacea a far off . Secondly if they by surfeiting or fasting hurt their owne bodies ; how shall their doctrine be followed by their Patient , when it is broken and crossed by themselves ? The rude Persians are recorded to have ever fed so temperately , that to spit or blow their nose , was both execrable and punishable amongst them . Likewise they ( as also the Romans ) permitted any man to give him that yawned a blow on the ear ; because spiting and sniveling and yawning , are only the fruits of fulness or idleness : Much more should learned Physitians moderate themselves , who give laws to others , and not rashly run into that excess , which even the savage Scythian and Persians ever abhorred . It is also recorded of the Spanish Women , that a certain girdle is kept of some two foot long in every Town , which if any womans belly exceeds in compass ( unless it be by child-going ) they are counted detestable and infamous : Let it be therefore a greater shame for us Physitians , by ill example to purchase our owne discredit , and also to lessen our skill , and shorten our lives as much as lieth in our owne power : for Theophrastus falsly accused nature , in that she gave long life to Ravens and Crows ( whom it little profited ) and but a short time to men , and the shortèst of all to Students , whom reason would have to live long for the mutual benefit one of another , and the publick good of the Common-weal . More justly he might have accused men and Students themselves , for abridging their natural dayes by surfeiting and drunkenness , chambring and wantonness , excess and riot ; considering that nature ever most preserveth and tendereth the most worthy creature , did it not destroy and ruinate it self . Timotheus having supped with Plato , and eaten ( contrary to his custome ) very moderately , slept very quiely that night , finding neither cholick to awake him , nor belchings in the morning to annoy him ; wherefore assoon as he awaked , he brake forth into this exclamation , with a loude voice : How sweet , how sweet are Platoes Suppers , which makes us in the night time to sleep , and in the morning to breathe so sweetly ! Yea but ( some will say ) how shall we know when we have eaten enough ? At whom Democritus would have laughed a month together , and perhaps have returned them this answer ; Fools and Idiotes that you are , know you when your Horse and your Hawke and your Dog hath enough , and are you ignorant what measure to allow your selves ? who will urge his Horse to eat too much , or cram his Hawke till she be over gorged , or feed his Hound till his tail leave waving ? and shall ( man the measurer of Heaven and Earth ) be ignorant how in Diet to measure the bigness signes or strength of his own stomach ? knows he by signes when they are over filled ; and is he ignorant of the signes of repletion in himself ? namely of satiety , loathing , drowsiness , stiffness , weakness , weariness , heaviness and belching ? Doth not every man know , that Enough consisteth not in filling the paunch , but in takeing sufficient to maintain nature , which no doubt is satisfied with a little , as Solon said at the wisemens feast , Summum , imo divinum bonum est nullo vesci alimento ; proximum vero & naturale quod a minimo . It is ( said Solon ) the greatest , yea the divinest good thing of all other , to eat no meat : and the next unto that and most natural is , to feed as sparingly as may be . But can you not prescribe one certain measure or quantity fit for all men ? no verily , for to prescribe to all men ( or to one man at all times ) one certain quantity of meat , were to make a coat for the Moon ; which if either Jupiter her Father , or Latona her Mother could have done , they would long ere this with some robe or other have covered her inconstant body , encreasing or decreasing every moment . And verily Hippocrates hath truly written . The quantity of meats ought not to be appointed by weight , number nor measure ; but by sence and ability of our stomachs : for some cannot digest much , others are offended at a little ; others are not satisfied till their maw be filled , others have too much when it is half filled . It were strange to recite , what great store of meat some have eaten and others daily , do eat without offence ; Aristotle in his Politicks , calleth the Fencers and Wrastlers Diet of his time 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , a necessary Gourmandise ; because through abundance of exercise ( which consumeth spirits and humours ) they were enforced to eat both much and often . Nay Cornelius Gemma affirmeth , that he saw whilst he lived an aged woman , which from her infancy fed in excessive measure , eating something continually every hour , besides her ordinary meals of breakfast , dinner and supper , which were of an incredible quantity : In the end dying with abundance of fat and flesh ( for the caul of her belly weighed twenty pounds ) they perceived all this to come from a peculiar and special temperature , called of the Grecians 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 : for her liver was greater and heavier then all the rest of her bowels laid together ; exceeding red , and swelling with store of blood and wind . Surius and Bruyrinus , and Schengkius tell of many others , who lived long in health though they fed excessively , having as it were an Ostriches stomach joined with a Dogs appetite . On the contrary side , some may as well live with hunger and long abstinence a great while , according as I have read in many Authors . Hippocrates thinketh , that if a man abstain from meat and drink seven dayes , he cannot escape death ; yea when some afterwards were perswaded to eat , their meat never passed thorough them , because the hungry gut ( called jejanum intestinum ) was by abstinence clung together . But Pliny saw the contrary , and Tinous Aunt lived two months together without meat or drink . Albertus , Alexander Benedictus , and Iacobus Sylvius , write yet of more strange and incredible abstinence both of men and women ; which truely I would have registred amongst the lies of the golden Legend , and the Abbot of Ursberg his Chronicles , had not William Rondeletius and honest Ioubertus written the like of a French gentlewoman , living almost three years without any sustenance of meat , bread , broth or drink ; who afterwards was married and conceived a child , which she brougth well forth and happily alive : By all which amples we may easily gather , how absurd the fashion and custome was before Plutarchs time : when every man did not carve for himself , but was carved unto by another ; and that ( after the Colledge fashion ) so equally , that none had more or less then his fellows : which order howsoever it pleased Hagias the Sophister , because feasts in Greek are called Divisions , and the Masters of feasts Great Dividers , and Servants Carvers , and Moera and Lachesis ( being the Goddesses of feastings ) were called so of equality of division ; and that peace is maintained where equality is kept , and that Agamemnons Souldiers ( as Homer testifieth in sundry places ) had every one alike measure and weight of victuals : yet ( by his leave ) neither is humanity therein observed , nor geometrical proportion kept , nor nature imitated . For tell me , what humanity can we call it , to give a man less then his stomach wanteth ? what geometrical proportion is that , which giveth as much to the half-full , as the empty vessel ? and how dare we prescribe one quantity to all , when mens stomachs be as divers in quantity of receit and ability of concoction , as their faces be differing in appearance ? so that it is too little for one which is too much for another , and no certain measure , nor number , nor weight is to be prescribed to any man : but every one to feed according as his stomach is able to concoct ; which ( to use Hippocrates his phrase ) though it have no ears , yet hath it intelligence to beg his own , and wisdome to discern when it hath enough ; willing us not to eat till we have an appetite , nor to eat so long till we have none . This rule Galen observing ( amongst many other ) he was seldome sick , and lived ( as Sipontinus writeth ) 140 years . Also let us remember , that in youth , health and winter we may feed more plentifully , as also after exercise and at our own own ordinary table : But when we are at great feasts , or forced to eat upon strange meats ( be they never so finely dressed ) let jealousy be our carver , after the example of Augustus Caesar , and also of Plato : who at great feasts fed onely on some known dish . I have read somewhere , when they of Thasis invited Alexander to a feast , that he fed well upon their fat mutton & beife , and gave away the forced dishes and curious Quelqchoses not to his own Countrimen and Souldiers , but to his captives and slaves : saying , That he would rather they were all dead , then that any of his owne by surfeiting upon any unknown meat should be never so little sick . And thus much of the just quantity of meats ; which Physitians may aim at by long experience , prescribing a full Diet to them that be sound and strong , and accustomed to much feeding , a moderate diet to them that be indifferent , and a thin diet to such weaklings and sick persons as require neither much nor often feeding . CHAP. XXXII . Of the quality of Meats . HIppocrates and Galen bids every man both in health and sickness , beware what kind of meat he most commonly useth ; for like food like flesh , like meat like nourishment . [ And therefore we find that some have Quails stomachs , and may eat poyson : A Woman by custome drank the juice of Hemlocks usually . Gal. lib. 3. simpl . medic . cap. 18. And a Maid fed usually ( by custome ) upon Napellus Spiders , and other poysons , Caelius lib. A. L. 11. cap. 18. Mithridates the younger used continually a counterpoyson made of poysons , in so much that when he would have poysoned himself ( being by his son Pharnaces vilany betrayed to Lucullus ) he could not do it , and therefore killed himself by the help of a Frenchman , Plin. lib. 23. cap. 9. ] All which cautions are particularly set down by Hippocrates and Galen , though scatteringly and by peices in several places ▪ that I need not add to his own words ; which I have aphoristically set down in these sentences following , because no man ever did the like . 1. Let every man take heed , what quality his meat is of ; for custome begetteth another nature , and the whole constitution of body may be changed by Diet. 2. We should take those kinds of meats which are best for our own particular bodys , for our own particular age , temperature , distemperature & complexion . For as every particular member of the body is nourished with a several juice : so labourers and idle persons , children and striplings , old men and yound men , cold and hot bodies , phlegmatick and cholerick complexions must have divers Diets . 3. Young , hot , strong and labouring mens stomachs may feed of meats , giving both an hard and a gross juice , ( as beife , bacon , poudred-flesh and fish , hard cheese , rye-bread and hard egs , &c. ) which may nourish slowly , and be concocted by degrees ; for if they should eat things of light nourishment ( as veal , lamb , capons , chickens , poacht-egs , partridges , pheasants or plovers , &c. ) either their meat would be too soon digested , or else wholy converted into choler . Contrariwise milk is fittest for young children , tender flesh for them that are growing , and liquid meats for such as be sick of sharpe diseases . Furthermore if any mans bowels or body be too dry , a moist diet of suppings , and boild meats yeelds him a remedy , but if it be too moist , all his meats and diet must tend to driness . 4. Sweet meats are unfit for young children and young men , and hot . stomachs ; for they corrupt childrens teeth , and turn most into choler in young mens stomachs , but they are good for old men and cold complexions ; yea hony it self agreeth with them . 5 Bitter meats engender choler and burn blood , giving no general nourishment to the whole , howsoever they be acceptable to some one part . 6. Sharp spices ( which I have particularly named before in the fifth Chapter of this Book ) are most unfit for tender bodies , whose substance is easily melted and enflamed , howsoever strong men may eat them with gross meats . 7. Soure meats and sharp together ( as limons , orenges , citrons and vinegar ) offend cold stomachs and sinewy parts : but if they be cold and astringent ( as sorrel , quinces , cervisses and medlers ) they are not so offensive , nay they are profitable to all stomachs being eaten last , unless the body be subject to fluxes . 8. Meats oversalted how dangerous they are , inflamations , leprosies , sharpness of urine , and great obstructions hapning to such as use them much , do sufficiently declare , agreeing with none but strong bodies ; as Sailers , Souldiers , and husbandmen , accustomed to hard labour and much toiling . 9. Fatty meats are not good but for cold and dry stomachs ; for in sanguine and cholerick stomacks they are soon corrupted , in phlegmatick stomacks they procure loosness and hinder retention : Only they are fit for men naturally melancholick , giving to them a kindly warmth , and also a most convenient and proper moisture . 10. All meats should be given very hot to cold and raw stomachs ; but cold meats to cold stomachs are very hurtful . Pityllus had so cold a stomach ( saith Suidas ) that he made a sheath for his tongue , to swallow down his pottage scalding hot : and Eunapius reporteth the like of Proaeresius the Sophister ; yea I my self have known a Shropshire gentleman of the like quality . 11. When any man is sick or distempered , let his meats be of contrary quallity to his disease : for health it self is but a kind of temper gotten and preserved by a convenient mixture of contrarieties . Now in what degree most particular meats be hot , cold and dry or moist , is sufficiently declared above in the fifth Chapter , where I have largely set down the differencies of meat both in kind , substance , temperature and tast , whereunto I refer you . 12. Above all things take heed that you eat not through hunger of a meat , which either naturally or accidentally you loath ; for as the pleasing meat is best concocted ( yea though it be somewhat of the worst kind ) so meats loathed , turn into wind , belchings , vomitings and cruel gripings , because the stoamch doth not affect them . But what meat is fittest , and most agreeable to every mans tast , humour and nature ; rather proper experience doth teach us , then any mans judgement can direct us . 13 Let a strong and good stomach tast of all things , but not feed upon them as nourishments ; yea , it is good in health to tast every thing , least we refuse that in sickness which perhaps we shall have most cause to feed on : as it hapned to Titus the Emperour , whose over-nice feeding and bathing hastned his death . CHAP. XXXI . Of the Time , Order and Manner of Eating . AThenaeus in his Feast of Sages saith , that the old Grecians lived very temperately ; but yet he saith that usually they made three meals a day , one early in the morning , another at noon , and the third at night . The first was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , because it was nothing but a sop of bread soked in a little wine . The second was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , because it was made of home-bread things , which are thought to give the best and strongest nourishment . The last was called by two names , 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 signifying a late eating , and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 because it required care and cost . In Plutarchs time Breakfast was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , because they did only tast and go . Dinner was termed 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , as being a noon-meal . Supper was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , for that it was not private ( as Breakfast and Dinner ) but either common amongst neighbours , or at least with all their own household . How Beavers called procaenia , and sleepdrinks called prohypnia and metacaenia came up , none have yet thoroughly determined , though here amongst labourers , and in Germany amongst gentlemen they are ordinarily put in practise . Breakfasts are fit for all men in stinking houses or close Cities , as also in the time of pestilence , and before you visit the sick ; for empty veins draw deepest , and what they first receive ( be it good or bad ) with that they clense or infect the blood . Contrariwise where the air is pure clear and wholesome , it is best to fast till dinner , unless you be either of growing years or of a cholerick stomach , for then you must not in any case be long fasting . Dinners and Suppers are generally necessary and convenient for all ages , times of the year , and all complexions ; especially in these northern parts of the world , where inward heat being multiplyed by outward coldness , our radical moisture would be soon consumed , if it were not restored by a double meal at the least . Whether Dinner or Supper should be largest . Now whether at Dinner or Supper we may feed more plentifully , is a great question amongst Physitians ; either because they affirm too generally on either side , or because they were ignorant of distinctions : Some are just of Leonard Fuchsius his opinion , that our Supper should be the larger of both , for these reasons . First , because as we may eat more in Winter then in Sommer , our inwards being then hottest , through repercussion of heat by external coldness ; so the night resembling winter ( as Hippocrates noteth ) no reason but that then we should feed most . Secondly we may then feed more largely because sleep ensueth , with whom blood , heat and spirits return more inward to the belly , bowels , stomach and all parts of concoction , then when by light exercise or musing they are distracted upward , downeward , and outward to other parts . Again , look what exercise is to the joints and muscles , that is sleep to the bowels : that is to say , look how labor and exercise doth warm the one , so doth sleep and quietness warm the other . Galen likewise writeth thus ; whilst a man sleepeth all motive and sensible faculties seem to be idle ; but natural powers are then most active , concocting meat not onely better in the stomach and guts , but also in the veins and whole habit of the body . Paulus Aegineta is of the same judgement , writing thus . Sleep is a ceasing or rest of animal faculties , proceeding from the moistning of our brain with a sweet and profitable humour ; which whosoever taketh in due order quantity and time , he receiveth thereby many singular commodities ; namely good concoction of meat , and digestion of humours , and ability to labour easily and chearfully after digestion : where he addeth this reason of better concoction in sleep out of Hippocrates . 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , &c. He that is broad waking is hottest outwardly , but he that soundly sleepeth is hottest inw ardly . Now if any shall object , that no sleep can be wholesome or sound after supper , because it is taken upon a full gorge . I answer him thus , Physitians write not to idiotes and fools , but to men of sence and reason ; whom common sence may teach , that they are not ( like swine and beasts ) first to fill their bellies , and then presently to sleep upon it , but to sit or walk easily after supper for an ▪ hour or more ; to settle their meat to the bottome of their stomach , that it may prove less vaporous to the head , and be sooner concocted lying nearer the liver . Furthermore when I said , that we should feed more largely at Supper then at Dinner , I meant nothing less then to counsel men to gorg themselves up to the top of their gullet ; but to advise them of both their meals to make Supper the larger , for the reasons alledged , and for infinite reasons besides which I could set down . For whom large , or sparing Suppers be most convenient . Nevertheless I do not so generally set this down , as that it is best for all persons , but for them onely which be sound and in health : for if any be troubled with great headache , or rhumes , or nightly torments of any part , their Supper ought to be very little , slender and dry , and also to be taken very timely in the evening ; that nature being freed all night time of other offices , may only attend concoction of the diseases cause . Last of all , I except also them which have long been accustomed to small Suppers and long Dinners ; because the imitation of a long custome ( though it be evill ) breedeth no common or petty danger . Laurence Ioubert in his eigth Paradox written to Camusius the King of France his Secretary , wonderfully striveth to oppugne this opinion ; but profitting no more with his head and hands , then the mouse in the tar-barrel doth with her feet ; for when he hath done all that he can , he onely proveth that better digestion is in the day time , and not better concoction , as hereafter ( upon some other occasion ) I will plainly demonstrate to the learned . How often a man should feed in a day . Furthermore I would not in like manner have any man think , that I prescribe two or three meals , and neither more nor less to all persons : for Children may feed much and often ; old men little and often : where by the way note this out of Plutarch , that old age is not ever to be stinted by years , but by decay and loss of natural strength . For in some Nothern Countries ( and he nameth ours ) few men are old at half a hundred years , when the Ethiopians and Southern people are old at thirty . They are long young and lusty , because much feeding restoreth decay of moisture , and outward coldness preventeth the loss of in-borne heat . These contrariwise are soon old , because outward heat draweth out their inward moisture , which should be the maintainer and food of their heat natural . Also I permit unto true labourers and workmen to feed often ( yea four or five times a day if their work be ground-work or very toilsome ) because continual spending of humours and spirits , challenge an often restoring of the like by meat and drink . Finally whosoever by some natural and peculiar temperature , or else upon any sickness , is enforced to eat often ; it were against art , reason and nature to number and stint his meals . Claudius Caesar had so gnawing a stomach , that he could eat at all hours , And Aulus Vitellius , ( even at his Gods service and sacrifice ) could hardly refrain from snatching the meal and oil out of the Priests hand : yea he baited at every Village as he rid upon the way , and swépt clean the Amery in every Inn. Contrariwise some either by nature or custome eat but once a day , others onely twice , and some thrice : as you may read in Benevenius , Ferdinandus Mena and Bartholomaeus Anulus ; and as I my self can also witness by divers of our own Countrymen , if I purposed or thought it needfull to produce their names . The like may I say of set hours , to dine or sup in ; for albeit I could ever wish and think it generally wholesomest , to dine before the highest of the Sun , and to sup 7. or 8. hours after dinner ; yet if any be accustomed with Augustus Caesar , to eat onely then and as often as he is hungry I forbid him not to discontinue his own course , albeit I rather impute it to a foolish use , then to any inward prescript or motion of nature . Caelius therefore not unwittily termeth Courtiers by the name of Antipodes ; for as it is day with them when it is night with us , so Courtiers and Princes eat when all others sleep ; and again ( perverting the order of nature , and setting as it were the Sun to School ) sleep out the sweetest part of the day , wherein others eat and work . Concerning the manner of eating , it is not alike in all Countries . The Jews , Grecians and old Romans did eat lying and declining to their right sight . Onely the Illyrians sat boult upright as we do now , with a woman placed ( after the new Hans fashion ) betwixt every man. Masinissa did most commonly eat and walk , yet somtime he did also eat standing , and sometimes leaning after the Roman guise , but he never sat at his meat : because he thought eating to be one of the slightest services to be don of men , upon which they should neither stand , lye nor sit long . For mine own part , I prescribe no other manner of eating , then we have recieved and kept by long tradition . Nevertheless , that declining towards the right side was the best manner of position in feeding , the example of Christ and his Apostles do sufficiently prove , who ( when they had choice of rites and manners ) observed ever that which was most wholesome , seemly and natural . Now how long we should sit at Dinner and Supper , though it be not set down precisely by Physitians , yet generally we may forbid too long or too short a time . Switrigalus Duke of Lituania never sat fewer then six hours at Dinner , and as many at Supper : from whom I think the custome of long sitting was derived to Denmark ; for there I remember I sat with Frederic King of Denmark , and that most honorable Peregine Lord Willoughby of Eresby ( when he carried the Order of the Garter ) 7. or 8. hours together at one meal . Others feed quickly and rise speedily ; but neither of those courses be allowable : for as too long sitting causeth dulness of spirits , and hindereth the full descent of meat to the depth of our stomachs ; so too speedy rising causeth an overhasty setling , and maketh it also to pass out before it be well concocted . To conclude , mince or chaw your meat finely , eat leisurely , swallow advisedly , and sit upright with your body for an hours space or less ; for longer sitting is not requisite for the body ( howsoever some affect it ) nay it is rather hurtful unless it be confirmed by long custome , or made more tollerable by reason of some pastime , game , or discourse to refresh the mind . But of all long sitters at the table , farewel Hugutia Fagiolanus , who ( as Petrarch reporteth ) lost both the City of Pisa and Lukes at one Dinner , because he would not arise ( though a true Alarm was given ) to repel the enemy , till his dinner were fully ended , which usually was protracted two or three hours . Last of all , Concerning the order of taking of Meats , The first course in old times was called frigida mensa , the cold service ; because nothing but Oisters , Lettice , Spinache , cold salades , cold water and cold sawces were then set on the table ; which order was clean altered in Plutarchs time , for they began their meals with wine , hot pottage , black or peppered broth , and hot meat , ending them with Lettice and Purcelane ( as Galen did ) to suppress vapours and procure sleep ; which example is diligently to be followed of cold stomachs , as the other is to be imitated of them which are over hot . Likewise that the most nourishing meat is first to be eaten , that ancient Proverb ratifieth Ab ovo ad mala ; from the eg to the Apples ; wherefore I utterly mislike our English custome , where Pheasant , Partridge and Plover are last served , and meats of hard concoction and less good nourishment sent before them . As for fruit ( if it be not astringent , as tart apples , pears , soure-plums , quinces , medlers , cervises , cornels , wardens , sour pomgranates , and all meats made of them ) it should be eaten last . Contrariwise all sweet and moist ▪ fruit ( as ripe melons , gourds , cucumbers , pompions , old and sweet apples , sweet pomgranates , sweet orenges ) and all things either fatty , light , liquid and thin of substance , and easie of concoction , should be first eaten , unless we be subject to great fluxes of the belly , or cholerick dispositions of stomach , and then the contrary course is most warrantable . For if slippery and light meats went formost into hot stomachs , they would either be burnt before the grosser were concocted , or at the least , cause all to slip downwards over-soon , by making the lower mouth of the stomach too too slippery . And verily I think that this is the best reason , wherewithall to maintain our English custome , in eating biefe and mutton formost before foul and fish ; unless the reason drawn from use and custome may seem more forcible ▪ Finally let me add one thing more , and then an end of this treatise ; namely that if our breakfast be of liquid and supping meats , our dinner moist and of boiled meats , and our supper chiefly of roasted meats , a very good order is observed therein , agreeable both to art and the natures of most men . FINIS . Notes, typically marginal, from the original text Notes for div A89219-e1530 Biesius lib. 1. theor med . Jason Prait lib. 1. Dier . Hippoc. lib de . Pri●c . Aristot . lib de ▪ gen . anim . Gal. cap. 2. lib. 11. Comm. Hippoc. de na● . hum . Avicen . lib. 1. Top. 3. cap. 7. All our life i● but a consumption . Lib. de prisc . med . Lib. de sol . anim . Gen. 3. Gen. 50. v. 2. Hippoc. de vet . med . Gen. 5. Lib. de arte ▪ Prov. 27. Eccl. 28. lib. de arte . Hippoc. de prisc . med . Athen. lib. 1. cap. 1. Aristoph . in Acan. Homer . Odyss . s. Hippoc. epistol . ad . Crate● Lib. de vulg● error . Cic. orat . cont . Ver. Plut. in Dion . Homer . i. Odyss . Herodorus . Ovid. 14. metam . Plut. de sal . pr. Plut. ibidem , Xiphil . in vitellio . Marsil . Fic . de tuend san . lib. de Diet. G●● . comm . 2. in Hippoc. de vict . rat . Gal. lib 5. cap. ● de tuend . san Sip●nt●us in vet . Gal. Soranus in ●jus vita . Siracid . cap. ● . v. 15. Notes for div A89219-e2620 How many kinds of Diet there be . Gal. com . in apho . 4. lib. 2. Com. 6. in 6. Epid. Com. 4. in 6. Epid. Com. in aph . 4. lib. 1. The matter of Diet. Roger Bacon lib. de record . senect . accid . Hyppoc . de diaet sal . Paracelf de vit . long l. ● : c : 4 : August ▪ de civit . dei . Phaedr . de aquila coel Michael Tox. com ▪ in Para● ▪ de vit . long . Io. Bonus Ter. ●●r . in Margar. philos . Gal. de alim . ●ac . 1. Lib. de aer . loc . & aq . Whether Mettals be meat : vide supra : Plin. lib. 7. c. 2. Apol. lib. de hist . mir . Athen . lib. 2. dipn. cap. 2. Notes for div A89219-e3100 lib. 1. de rer . var. lib. 2. de tu . san . Lu●tet . lib. 10. Lib. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . lib de aeris potest . Plin. l. 13. c. 1. Plut. in vita Marii . Hieron . in epi● . Nepotiani . Hieron . Mercurial . in Gymnast . Lib. de resp . ●su . ex Hipp. l. de loc . aer . & aq l. 7 polit . Gal. 1. dr ▪ tu ▪ san Hip de aer . loc . & aq . Hippoc. de loc . aer ▪ & aq . Hippoc. loco citato . Lib. 1. Fen. 2. d●st . 11. The best Aire Notes for div A89219-e4000 Lib. cont . Epic P u● de u● . ex : host . cap. Plut. de Isi . & Osir . Gal. 2 de ant●d ▪ Plut. de Isid . Tract . de ▪ ●rochis● . Plut. de Isi . & Osir . Avic . Fen. 2. Tract . 3. Swe t waters perfumed , and cakes against i● smels . Soranus in vita Hipp. How the aire is t● he corrected in the time of pestilence . Com. in Diosc . ho. 1. cap. 88. Lib. de pesle . Lib. de lepra . Aelian . 7. de v r. hist . Plut. in vita . Phocion . Sabel . ▪ l. 2. c. 10 Plut. in vita . Porc. Cat. Coel. lib. 3. cap. 23. A. L. Lib. 10. de rer . var. Cardan . lib : 10. de var : rer : c : 8. In Idaea med . phil . Notes for div A89219-e4870 How many kinds of meats ▪ there be . Euseb lib. 1. de praepar . evang Alex. ab . Alex. lib. 4. Lib. primo . Plut. dees . carm Symp. 8. cap. 8. Gal. lib. de dissol . cont . Gal. lib. cib . de enchy . et . 1. de fac . alim . Avic . 3. Fen. 1. tract . 1. Gal. ● . de alim . sac . Meats of peculiar and extraordinray tastes . Sueton. in Nerone . Sabel . lib. 10. cap. 10. Laert. lib. 6. Naucl. de greg . 3. pontif . Gaugen . lib. 3. histor . Vergil 3. Georg Gel. lib. 28 cap. 5. A. L. Herodo . lib. 4 Plin. lib. 6. cap. 24. Caelius lib. 28. cap. 2. A. L. Cardan . de . rer . var. Sabel . ex Herodot . lib. 6. Lib. 6. cap. 3. Patholog . Trincavella lib. 7. cap. 5. de cur . morb . ●entur . 3 : curat . 86. lib. 4 : cap : hist . mir●b . Coel. l. 11. c. 13. ant . lect . Lib. observ . propriarum . In epist ad Ioann . Scl : eng . Io. Mat. à Grad . ep . de appetit . Cromer . l 20. Olaus , l ▪ 20. c. 7 sept reg . Marant . l 3 de cogn . simp . Cranz . de reb . lituan . Gal. 4. de fac . simp . cap. 7. Isaac de univ . diet . Gal. 4. de simp . fac . c. 10. & s . ejusdem c. 25. Avic 2. can . cap. 3. Gal , de fac . alim . c ult . Gal. 2. de reg . ac . morb . Aristot : 22. problematum . Anic in univers . Diaet . Homer 1. Iliad . Plato in Timae . Gal. 3. de fac . alim . & 3 de loc . aff . c. 6. Gal. 5 de alim . fac ▪ Isaac de uni● . & partic . diaet . Lib. 2. Notes for div A89219-e6800 Athen l. 1 c. 2. Gal. l. 4. antiq . lect . Plut. in quaest . Rom. Sat : 3. c : 13. Suet : in vit : Augusti : Plin : l. 8. c. 51 : Diod : l : 1 : c : 6 : Pl●n : l : 10 : c. 20 & 22 : 〈◊〉 es : carn : Varro l : 3 : rer . rust : Avic : fen : ● : tract : 12 : Plut. lib. de es . carn . Sim. ● . quaest 9. Plut. 3 Sim●os . quart . 10. Eccle ▪ 〈◊〉 Macrob. 3 sat . Athen. lib. 8. cap. 6. lib. 4. cap. 3. Laertius . Suet. in Ner. lib. 4 de . fac . simpl . med . cap 8. & 16. Lib. 1. de . fac . simp . Notes for div A89219-e7650 Whether flesh or fish be the more ancient pure and whlosome meat . Bald. in postillam Carthusianorum . ● . ●olychron . Exod. 12. 24 ▪ Lev. 11. v. 9 , 10. 1 Epist . ad Timorh . cap. 4. v. 3. Hieronym : in Epist . Marul . lib. 1. decad . 1. Polydor Verg lib : 3. cap. de rer . invent . Plin lib. 7. cap 21. Diod. lib. 3. ap . 3. Herod . lib. 2. Cic. 3. de nat . Dior . Heb. 2. Ael . lib. 1. de vac : h●ss . lib. de es carn . Euseb . 1. de prap . eu . Alex. ab . Alex ▪ lib. 4. Ge● . 18. v. 8. Gen. 9. v. 3. Gal. lib. cap. 8. Plut. & Symp. quest . 8. 1 ▪ Tim. 5. v. 23. Sextus Aurel. Hieron in Ep. Notes for div A89219-e8750 3 de fac . alim . c. 2. Valthas . Pisanellus l. de esc . & potul . Gal. 3 ▪ de alim . sac . c 7. Lib. de cib . bov . & mal ▪ succi . & 3 de alim . fac ▪ cap. 1. Athen. lib. 7. cap. 1. Isaac . 4 de 〈◊〉 dieta . c. 7. Macrob 3. sat cap. 13. 3. Dealim . fac . est 2 : & temperam . Athen. lib. 1. cap. 4. Cael. lib. 28. cap. 2. A L. Diod. lib. 1. cap. 6. Tract . de Ver. vece . Why Mutton makes one live longer then ●●y meat . lib. 3. de alim . fac . cap. 1. lib. 1. de la. maison rushque . 〈◊〉 de . vict . rat . Haly abb . s. theor . Lib. de genit . Athen. lib. ● . cap. 24. i● Quest Rom Sheep and Piggs , the younger the better . Gal 3 ▪ de alim . ●ac . Plut. lib. de es . carn . Lib. 8. ● . 51. in P●n ▪ & Bucc● . De diaet . partic . Plut. l. de Isid . Plut 5 f ▪ mp . Plut. 5. symp . 3. de alim . fac . c. 13. Plin. l ▪ 8. c. 51. L. 3. de orb ●it . L. 2. de re rust . P. Iov . in vita ▪ Leon. x. Schol. sal c. 5. Plin. l. 28 c. 9. Notes for div A89219-e10380 Lib. 2. de victrat . Gen. 25. L. 5 de vict . atten . L. de retard ▪ fen . L. quaest . nat . Plut. de sol . anim . Gen. 25. Pisanel . de esc . & potul . lib. 6. de v ▪ rer . In diaet univ . Lampridius . Gal. de vict . atten . 3 de alim . fac . cab . 1. Hares be often leprous . Lib. de fac . esc . Varro . 3. lib. agric. Matthiolus . Com. in lib. 2. Diosc . cap. 18. Strab ▪ lib. 4. 2 de vict . rat . Jas. Prat. Jo. Necker . Syntax . 3. Plin. lib. 8. c. 43 Nauclerus . Virg. 3. Georg. Guagnimus . lib : 2. de gest . Emanu . Athen. lib. 10. cap. 1. 2 de vict . rat . lib. 3. de . alim . fac . cap. 1. Notes for div A89219-e11420 S. partic . Diaet . 2 can . & Fen. 3. t● . 1. Pisanel ▪ de esc . & potul . ex . Plinio . Joach . Curaeus . in situanim Platina lib. 6. cap. 16. Bucinus lib : 6 : cap : 9 : Gal. 3. de alim ▪ fac . l. & vict . atten . Rhas . 23. Cont. Avenz . 1. & 2. Theisir . Halya . s. theor . Elluch . c. 2. l. 3 Rhas . 24. Con. 3 de fac alim . Plin. lib. 10. c. 1 cap. de phthis . Dialog . 3 ▪ lib. Creophag . lib. nat . histor . Macrob. 3. sat . cap. 13. Pli. l. 10. ● . 20. Paul Jov. in vita Leon. X. l. de civit . Dei. Gal. 3 de alim . fac . Halyab : s. theo . Plut symp . 7 ▪ quest . 10. de Enchym . & Caroch . l de . esc . & po● . Plin. l. 10. c. 22 Diod. l. 1. ca. 6 Jas. Prat. 1. lib. Diaet . Plut. in quest . Rom. Lege Heresbachium , li. 4. de re rust . In hort ▪ san . Lege Davidem Chytr . in descript . Russiae . lib. volatilum . Gal. 3 de alim . fac . Gal. de comp . in sec . gen . Isaac . in partic . diaet . Rhas . 2. de ali . Rhas . com ▪ 〈◊〉 4 aphor Aveuz . 1. & 2. theisir . Notes for div A89219-e13090 Albertus in hort . san . Gesn . 3. de avib . Gesn . 3. de avib . Plut. lib. de es . carn . Epist . ad Gesn . L de ●h eriac . ad Pison : Arnald . de Vil. nov . De es . & pot : Gal. 5 de alim . fac . Rhas : 4 : Aph : De esc . & potul . Gal 3. de alim . fac . De vict . atten . L : r●i rustic : 1 : c : 90 : Fen. 3 doct . 14 tract . 21. De diaet partic Plin l. 10. c. 22 Avicen Fen. 14 tr . 3. c. 21. Athen. l. 9. c. 15. Loco citato . L. 1. Epist . 8. 3 : Euporist : Nam : 11 : v : 31 : Tract : de avib : Lib : 3 de avib : Cael. l. 28. c. 2. antiq . lect . Epist ad Ge●n ▪ Cael. l. 6. antiq . lect . Plut. in Lucullo . Lib. de avib . L. 6. de tu . san . L. 3. de alim . sac . Monedula . Acanthis . Chloris . 5. Theor. c. 22 : Troglodytae ▪ Notes for div A89219-e16690 Vulpan●eres . Gen. 3. de avib . Boseades . Epist ad ▪ Gesn . Phalacrocoraces . Notes for div A89219-e17690 Ala mala , Coxa noxa , Crura dnra , Cropium dubium . Collum bonum . Macr. 3. Satur. lib. cap. 37. Aveuz . 1. & : 2. Theisir . Gal. 4. Eupor . Gal de comp . in sect . loc . Diocl. in 7 : sap . Conv. Gal. 3 de alim . fac . Isaac . Jud. de part . diaet . Gal. 3. de alim . fac . Plut. de es . carn . l. de Magister . Pli. l. 10. c. 61. Gal. 3. de . al. fa ▪ cap. 6. ● , de alim fac . Plin. lib. 10 : cap. 22. lib. esc . & potu . Capi vaccius Notes for div A89219-e18950 Ex Higyno . Ovid. in rem . amor . Beasts milk . Plin. l 6. c. 30. 4 de sac . simpl . cap. 17. Politianus in Nutricia . Syl. p●et . l. 14 Aelian . lib. 12. var. hist . Marulus . lib. 4 cap. 2. Jo. Mat. a Grad . c. de appetitu . Athen. l. 2. c. 2 Guagninus in Tart. Cael. l ▪ b ●8 . cap. 2. A. L. Lib. de san . tu . plin l. 11. c 41 : Plin. l. 25 c. 7. Plin. l. 2. c. 67. Card. lib. 1. de rer ▪ var. Notes for div A89219-e19840 Lib. 28. c. 9. Olausl . 13. sept . gent. Plut. l. 28 ▪ c 9. 6 de alim fac . Isa . de diaet . pt . L. 3 Trid. hist . Plin. l. 11. c. 42 Plin. l 11. c 41 Plin. l. 11. c. 42 Plin. loco citato . Strab. l. 3 ▪ Plin. l. 11. c. 42 ▪ Notes for div A89219-e20550 Plin. l. 4. c. 13. Polid. Vir. l. 3. c. 5. de rar . inv . Alex. Aphr. l. 2 problem . 84. Pl. l. 29 cap. 3. Schol. Salem . & Horat. Serm. lib. 2. Satyr . 4. Rha. 4 ad Alm. Athen. l. 3. c ▪ 7. Avicenna & Albertus . 4. Ad Almans 12 de meth . med . lib 2. de avib ▪ Avic . Fen. 1. tract : 1. cap. 8. Lib. de san tu ▪ Pisanel de esc . & potul . l. sym . 2. quae . 3. L●vit . 7. Cael. lib. 13 cap. ● . A. L. Virgil. 3. Geo. Guag . in Tart. Pl. l. 28. cap. 9. Mars . Fic . de . studios●●n ●ue . I b. 2. cap. 1● . Avic . l ▪ 1. d●c . 3 Plin. l. 28. ca. 1. Notes for div A89219-e21350 Pis . de esc . & potul . Corn. cels . l. 2. Plut. 4. symp . qu 4. Lev. 11. v. 9. 10. Athen l. 8. c. 6. Caelius lib. 23. 〈◊〉 5. antiq . lect . lib. 32. nat hist . cap. 11. Plut. 4. symp . 4 ▪ quest . Gal. 3. de alim . fac . Plin. lib. 7. c. 2. & lib. 16. ca. 1. Plin l. 31. ca 2. Plin. l. 32. ca ▪ ● . Plin. l. 32. c. 2. Plin. li. 32 c. 2. Suet in vita ▪ Severi . Athen. l. 8 c 6. Athen. l. 8. c. 3 ▪ Notes for div A89219-e22300 Lib. 32 cap. 7 Plin. l. 9. c. 29. 3. de simp . sac . Athen. l. 8. c. 6. Vict. l. 18. c. 17. var. lect . Gal 9. comp . sec . loc . de alim fac . lib. de af●● . in t . 3. de . al. fa c. 31 cap. 185. This Asellus is also by Jul. Scaliger , aud ●ac . Cujacius rendred stockfish perhaps because like unto the Afse , not serviceable or fit for use til wel beaten . Athen. lib 9. cap. 3. Plin. l. 31. c. ● . Arnol. de vil . nou . com . in ▪ Sch. Sal. Aelianus . Plin. l. 9 cap. 8. Plin. l. 32. c. 7. L. de Venereis . Plin. 9. c. 17. L de diff . anim . lib. 32 c. 9. Plin. l. 32. c. 1. Plin. l. 32. ca. 6. Plin. l. 32. ca. 6. De cib bon . & . mal . succ . Loco citato . Athen. l 4 c. 3. Mac 3. sat . c. 13 Su. in vita Ti● . C●lcus . Trallianus . Gal. 5. de . sa . tu Gregr. hist . l. 9. Lib. 32. cap. 6. Seneca in ep . Gal. 8. de comp med . sec . loc . Apic. l. 7. c. 16. Lib. 1. de morb ▪ mul. Lae. in vit . Dio. Lib 32 cap. 11 Pli. lib 9 ▪ c. 51. Plin. li. 9. ● . 51. com 1. epid . 3 ▪ cap. 4. lib. de pisc ▪ Lib. colloq . cap. 184. Suet. in vita . Sever. Gal ▪ de Euchy & cacochym . cic . 1. Tusculan quaest . Lib. de morb . in t . Athen. l. 8. c. 5. De comp . med . sec . loc . li. de dif . anim . Notes for div A89219-e27550 Plin. l. 32. ca. 7. Terpsides lib. de Vener . Pisan . de . esc . & potul . Li. de rect . rat . Com. in Sch. sal Jov. in desc . Hetrur . lib. 9 ▪ cap. 3. 3 de alim . fac . Poly. Virgil. lib. 11. hist . Lib 9. cap. 2● . Plin. l. 32 ca 2. Plin. l. 32. ca. 2. Plin. l. 9. ca. 55 Plin. l. 9. c. 23 ▪ Athen. l. 1. c 3. Hippoc. 2. de rat . vict . Gal. 3. de al. fa. 3. sat . cap. 16. lib. de esc ▪ & potul . Notes for div A89219-e30050 Plin. l. 8. c. 39. Plin. loc . citato Plin. li. 9. c. 55. Ex. M Varrone Pisanel . de esc . & potul . Plin. l. 30. c. 6. Supra cap. 18. Plin. l ▪ 8. c. 29. Athen l. 2. c. 3. Plin. lib. 22. cap. 24. Cael. lib. 28. cap. 27. A. L. Macr. 2. sat . c. 8. Gel. l. 13. c. 11. de esc . & potul . What hony is best Notes for div A89219-e30720 Plin. l. 15. c. 1● . 3 de alim . fac . Cael. lib. 27. ca● ▪ 17. A. L. Athen l. 7. c. 1. Cael lib. 13. cap ▪ 15 ▪ A. L. Lib 15. cap. 21 Plin. l. 15. c. 25. lib. 15. c 23. Plin. l. 13. ca. 1. Plin. l. 23. ca. 6. Plin. l. 13. ca. 4. Plin. lib. 15. Plut. 5. Symp. Plin. l. 12. ca. 1 ▪ Alex. l. 3. ca. 11 : Athen. l. 7. ca. 1 Pau ▪ Jov ▪ invita Colu● . Lib. 15. cap. 18. Matth. com . in Diosc . 2 de diaet . part . Pisanel . de esc . & potul . Plin. l. 15. c. 20. Pis . de esc . & pot . ex Avicenna Aetio & Isa . aco Iudaeo . ● de alim . fac . Laert. in Plut. vit . 2 de alim . sac . 1. Amerinum . Plinij 2. Signinum . 3. Venereum 4. Crustuminum 5. Hordearium 6. Do●obellianum 7. Superbum . 8. Cucurbitinum 9. Ampullaceum Schol. sal . c. 39. lib. de . la. mais . rust . Gal. l. 8. simpl . Gal ex . Diosc . lib. 1 cap. 127. 3 de alim . fac ▪ cap. 22. 2 de alim . fac ▪ Lib. 5. cap. 4. Lib. 2. de alim . fac . cap 9. Plin. l. 15. c. 15. Mac. 3 sat . c. 18. Plin. lib. 23. c. 8 Pis . de ●scul . & potul . Notes for div A89219-e34300 Dod. lib. 4. Pla ▪ Gal. 2. de alim ▪ fac . Dodon . lib. 2. hist . pl. Plin. Alex. l. 5. c ▪ ●1 . Plin. l. 19. c. 9. Galen . Horat. l. 3. ●pod Suidas . Crinz . l. 3. ca 3. hist . saxon . lib. 7. de med . sec . loc . Polemon lib. de Samothra● . Athen. l. 9. c. 3. 2 de alim . fac . Pe●n . sac . lib. 4. Ticin hist . C●spinianus . Cromerus . Platina . Plut. l. de Iside & Osiride . Dodon . lib. 5. hist . plaut . 3 de alim fac . Plin. l. 9 c. 15. Plin. l. 19. ca. ● . Pisanel . de . esc . & potul . Plin. l. 9 ca. 15. 1 Cyropaed . Notes for div A89219-e37170 Dios . l. 2. c. 78. Gal. 1. de alim . fac . cap. 2. lib. de alim . fac . cap. 9. lib. 6. cap. 20. de rer . var. Plut. in . Nat. Quest 1 de alim . fac . cap. 14. Suidas . Nicetas l. 3. de reb . Immanuel . Athe. l. 4. c. 18. Notes for div A89219-e37930 Plut. Symp. 7. lib. 7. cap. 56. in ▪ Ar●ad . Plin. l. 18. c. 11. Plin. i. 7. cap. 2. Diod. lib. 3. c. 3. Herodot . li. 2. 2. lib. de gest . Emanuel . Herodot . li. 2. Diod. lib. 3. c. 3 Plin. l. 2. c. 43. Alex. ab ▪ Alex. lib 3. c. 11. ex . Plinio . Suet. in vita . Iul. Cae. Luc. in dial . de merc . cond Laer. in . vita . Diog. Athen. lib. 1. Dionyss 3. Gal. de ali . fac . Isaac . in partic . Diaet . Averrh . 5. Col. Psel . de . pr. & caen . ●at . Gal. 1. de . la. fa. Gal. 1. de . alim . fac . cap. 2. lib. Quae. Rom. Bread ▪ of a day , Wine of a year , Meal of a month . Plin li. 2. c. 20. Gal. 1. de al. sa . Avic . can . 2. Haly abbas 5. Theor. How and when Bread is to be eaten . Sueton. in Vita Anton. Pli. Cael l 27 c. 2● . antiq . lect . Cael. lib. 9 cap. 13. A. L. Notes for div A89219-e39380 Plut. 4. Sympos quaest . 4. Hom. 1. Iliad . Plat. in Timae ▪ lib. Quaest . nat ▪ Quaest . 5. Herot . lib. 2. Plut. in qu. nat . lib. 8. cap. 4. meth . med . Notes for div A89219-e40100 Sym. ● . quae . 4. Cael. lib. 13. cap 25. A. L. Plut. in Coron . lib. de opt . civ . Plut. de sal . vict rat . lib. de tuen . san Plut ▪ de san . tu . Plut. de sal . Diaet . Plin. li● . 8. & lib 9. nat hist . Notes for div A89219-e40720 Hip. in Iure jur Objections against variety of meats . Cael. lib. 9 cap. antiq . lect . La. in vita Dio. Cael. lib. 7. cap. 11. antiq . lect . Alex. ab Alex. lib. 3 cap. 11. Corrozetus de dict . & fact . memor . Plut. in Lac. Q●est . Plut in apo . thegm . Athen. l. 4. c. 3. Plin. l. 19. c. 4 ▪ Sab. l. 8. suppl ▪ ●ov . l. 33. hist . Hect. Boeth . in histor . Scot. Alex. ab . Alex. lib. 3. cap , 11. Athen. l. 10. c. 4 Mar. l. ● . dec . 1. Plin. l. 11. c. 4● . Diod. lib. 1. c. 6. Alex. ab Alex. lib ▪ 5 cap. 21. Plin. l. 8. ca. 50. Valer. Max. 2. com . in Pan. Read. Plin. l 8 ca. 57. Sabel . lib. 4. ●nead . 7. Cael. lib. 8 ca. 7. A. L. Spar. in vita Ge●ae . Iliad . 1. Lib. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . Guevarra in his Epistles . Isaac . Belg. lib. de quint. mell . essent . Cael. lib. 6. ant . lect . Hect. Boeth . l. 9. Scot. hist . Alex. l. 3. c. 11. Athen. l. 10. c. 4 Marul . lib. 1. decad . 1. Plin. l. 11. c ▪ 42 ▪ Numb . 11. Lib. 1. c. 6. Alex l. 5. c. 21. Gell. l. 13. c. 11 l. 9 Scot ▪ hist ▪ lib. 2. histor . Notes for div A89219-e42820 Athen. l. 1. c. 1. In A●can . l. 6. c. 10. en . 7. Cael lib. 13. c. 2. A. L. Flan. Vopisc . Sabel . lib. 10. ex Capitolino . Ex Boet. in Ornithogon . Aug l. 10. con . Athen l. 10 ▪ c. Pl●t in Gryll . Marsil . Fici . de ●●end . stud san . Cael. lib. 17 ea . 11. A L. Ma. sat . 3. c. 17. Hector . Boeth ▪ hist . Scot. Sozom. lib. 6. eccl . hist . c. 34. Hippoc. Xenoph. 1. Pae ▪ Athen. l. 2 ▪ c. 2. Cic. 3. Tusc . Marfil . Fic . de Sanit . stud . tu . Plut. 4. sympo● Cloath your self warmly , and feed sparingly . Vesti te cal●o & mangia poco Hip. de . vet . me lib ▪ 1. cap. 6. Cosmocrit . Sur. com . rer . in orbe gest . B●u . lib. 3. de re cib . cap. 5. Schengh . lib. 3. obs ▪ med . Hip lib ▪ de ca. Plin. l. 11. c. 54 Athen. l. 2. Dip Alb. l. 7. de ani Alex. B. pract . lib. 12 c●p . 11 Jac. syl . Consil . contra famem . Ioub dec . 1. ●a●ad●● ▪ 2. Plut. 2. Symp. lib. de . sal . diaet . Suet. in vita . Aug. Laert. in vita Diog. Notes for div A89219-e44510 Hipp. de sal Di. Galen com . in aph . so . lib 1. Gal. com . 4 ▪ de vict . rat . in ac . cap. 10. Gal. com in aph . 50. lib. 1. Gal. com . in ap ▪ 12. l. 1. & com . de sal . diaet . c. 7 ▪ & com . 5. in 6. epi ▪ c. ● . & com . in aph . 3. lib. 3. Gal. com . in aph . 18. lib. 2. Gal com . 2. de vict . rat . in . ac . cap. 36. 4. de fac . simp . cap. 7. 4. de simpl ▪ fac . cap. 19. & . 5. ejusdem . cap. 25 Gal. de alim . fac . l. & ca. ult . Gal. 2. de vict . rat in ac . ▪ Gal. 3 de fac . alim . & 3. de loc . af● . cap. 6. Gal. com in ap . 18. lib. 2. Gal 5. de . al. f● ▪ Isa . de univers . & parti . diaeta . Gal. com . in aph ▪ 3. lib. 3. Gal. com in . aph . 3 l. 3. Gal com . in aph . 38. lib. 2. Gal. com . 4. de vict rat . in . ac . cap. 89. Hip. de sal . vict . rat . Pl. desan . tu●n . Notes for div A89219-e45060 Meat well chewed is half digested . It is ill to talk much at meat ▪ Where an eg is best to be opened . lib. 2. para . c ▪ ●1 lib. 6. epi. sec . 6. & 1. aphor . 15. Hip. 6 ▪ ep . sec . 5. & aph . 29. Hip ibid. ap . 10 l. 1. de ca. sym . lib. 1. cap. 97. Hib. 6. ep . tom . 4 aph . 12. Hip. 2. aph . 50. Dec. 1. parad . 8. Plut. in Gryll . Suet. in vita claudii & vitel . Ben ▪ c. 108. de abdit . Ferd. Mena l. de med . feb . c. 51. Barth . An in picta Po●si cir ▪ ca finem . Sue ▪ in . vit . Au. lib. 9. c. 3. A. L. Cael. l. 7 ▪ c. 9. A. C. Ath. l. 10. c. 1● ▪ Leon● . l. 4. c. 3. Ioa. c ▪ 13. v. 23. lib. de ▪ remed . utr for t . Plut. 8. symp . Cael liq ▪ 7. cap. 17. A. L.