A journey to England With some account of the manners and customs of that nation. Written at the command of a nobleman in France. Made English. Evelyn, John, 1620-1706. 1700 Approx. 46 KB of XML-encoded text transcribed from 23 1-bit group-IV TIFF page images. Text Creation Partnership, Ann Arbor, MI ; Oxford (UK) : 2006-06 (EEBO-TCP Phase 1). A38791 Wing E3490A ESTC R219623 99831079 99831079 35541 This keyboarded and encoded edition of the work described above is co-owned by the institutions providing financial support to the Early English Books Online Text Creation Partnership. This Phase I text is available for reuse, according to the terms of Creative Commons 0 1.0 Universal . The text can be copied, modified, distributed and performed, even for commercial purposes, all without asking permission. Early English books online. (EEBO-TCP ; phase 1, no. A38791) Transcribed from: (Early English Books Online ; image set 35541) Images scanned from microfilm: (Early English books, 1641-1700 ; 2048:30) A journey to England With some account of the manners and customs of that nation. Written at the command of a nobleman in France. Made English. Evelyn, John, 1620-1706. [8], 35, [1] p. printed, and sold by A. Baldwin, near the Oxford-Arms-Inn in Warwick-Lane, London : 1700. With a half title. Gathered in 4's. Includes a table of contents. Reproduction of the original in the Christ Church College Library, Oxford. Created by converting TCP files to TEI P5 using tcp2tei.xsl, TEI @ Oxford. Re-processed by University of Nebraska-Lincoln and Northwestern, with changes to facilitate morpho-syntactic tagging. Gap elements of known extent have been transformed into placeholder characters or elements to simplify the filling in of gaps by user contributors. 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Copies of the texts have been issued variously as SGML (TCP schema; ASCII text with mnemonic sdata character entities); displayable XML (TCP schema; characters represented either as UTF-8 Unicode or text strings within braces); or lossless XML (TEI P5, characters represented either as UTF-8 Unicode or TEI g elements). Keying and markup guidelines are available at the Text Creation Partnership web site . eng England -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800. England -- Social life and customs -- Early works to 1800. 2005-08 TCP Assigned for keying and markup 2005-08 Aptara Keyed and coded from ProQuest page images 2006-01 Emma (Leeson) Huber Sampled and proofread 2006-01 Emma (Leeson) Huber Text and markup reviewed and edited 2006-04 pfs Batch review (QC) and XML conversion A JOURNEY TO ENGLAND , &c. A JOURNEY TO ENGLAND . With some ACCOUNT OF THE Manners and Customs of that NATION . Written at the Command of a Nobleman in France . Made English . LONDON : Printed , and Sold by A. Baldwin , near the Oxford-Arms-Inn in Warwick-Lane . 1700. TO THE READER . WHen I first chanced upon this severe piece , and read it in the Language it was sent me , I was so much concern'd for the honour of our Country , that it was my resolution to suppress the Publication of our shame , as conceiving it an Act of great Inhumanity ; But upon second , and more impartial Thoughts , I have been tempted to make it speak English , and give it Liberty , not to reproach , but to instruct our Nation , remembring what the Wise-Man hath said , Open rebuke is better than secret Love. Prov. 27. 5. The truth is , I cannot say but the particulars , are most of them , very home ; and which we may no way evade , without acknowledging , at least , that the Gentleman ( whoever he were ) made notable use of his time , but best of all , by setting upon an effectual redress of what is amiss . And though I doubt not , but one might easily retort in as many instances , upon defects as great ( if not greater ) of that Nation ; ( for he that finds fault , had need be perfect ) yet were it then fittest to do it , and to revenge this Charitable Office , when we shall have first reformed our selves . Farewel . CONTENTS . ALE aud Ale-Houses Pag. 14 Beauty of the Ladies 3 Bowling-Greens 33 Balls 27 Bunglers at Raillery 28 Confidence of the Inn-Keepers 4 Cough ( the Generality of it 14 Description of the Country 3 — Of London 5 — Of the Presbyterians 7 — Of the Independents , Anabaptists , Quakers , &c. 12 Dancing Masters , Their Insolence 28 Hide Park 29 Horses , Dogs , &c. 33 Ill Manners of People at London . 5 Lords surley 24 Ladies go to Taverns 16 — Want Confidence 21 — Have familiar ways with them 23 — Have no Standard for Dressing 22 Old Women wear Colour'd Clothes p. 22 Pleading at Westminster 31 Quarelling 18 Spring-Garden 29 Taverns 15 With-Drawing-Rooms ( don 't know how to use them 34 Younger Brothers Rob on the High-Ways . 20 End of the Contents . A JOURNEY TO ENGLAND , &c. MY LORD , YOU Command me to give you a Minute account of what I observed , and how I passed that little time which I lately spent in England ; a Country , whose Character you so greatly desire to be informed of , in a Conjuncture ( as you rightly deduce ) of strange Vicissitude , and indeed they are a People of all the World most fond of alterations ; And to whom , My Lord , should I more readily submit ? First , encourag'd to make this excursion by your Lordship , who had formerly beheld , and so much admir'd the Splendor and Magnificence of this Court , and Kingdom in its greatest Acme and Lustre . But , My Lord , I cannot imagine , that you should esteem me either of Years , or Capacity to inform You , whose Judgment is so Mature , and Correspondence so universal , as that there is nothing which can escape your Cognizance , not only in that Island , but in all the VVorld besides . But since you oblige me not to dip into the Transactions of State , the effects of Providence , Time , and other Notices of a Superiour Orb ; and in which you cannot be instructed by so weak an instrument as your Servant ; and demand only the little Remarks of my hasty , and desultory Peregrination ; though I cannot pretend to improve your Lordship's Knowledge , yet I may hope to give it diversion , and an Essay of my Obedience . It must be avowed that England is a Sweet , and Fertil Country . Terra potens armis , atque ubere gleba . That the Fields , the Hills , and the Vallies are perpetually clad with a glorious , and agreeable Verdure ; that her Provisions are plentiful ; her Staples important ; and her interest very considerable ; not omitting the most Beautiful Ladies , I had almost said , of the VVorld , but for a just respect due to the Illustrious Circles of our Court , where the Beauties of Conversation , so far transcend the tinctures of Lillies and Roses . But these , My Lord , are not the Memoirs which you demand ; I will therefore hasten to my Post . After a short Passage from Calais , we came on shore at Dover , where the People of the Town entertain'd us with such suspicious and forbidding Countenances , whispering , and stiff Postures , that I should never have believed so great a difference in the Addresses of two Nations , could have been produced by so short a trajection , and in a Port continually accustom'd to the Faces of Strangers , had not the contrary humours of our contiguous Neighbours , the Spaniards , made it possible , in so many pleasant instances . But I was amazed , when we had taken Post , and scarce out of the Village , at the Acclamations of the Boys , running after , and affrighting our Horses , hooting , and crying out , French Dogs , French Dogs , a Monsieur , Monsieur ! By a particular expression of Welcome , which other People would interpret Derision ; But in this Triumph ( though somewhat late e'er we set out of Dover ) we attain'd as far as Rochester the first night , where , how new a thing it appeared to me , to see my confident Host set him down cheek by joul by me , belching , and puffing Tobacco in my Face , you may easily imagine , till I afterwards found it to be the usual stile of this Country ; and that the Gentlemen , who lodge at their Inns , entertain themselves in their Company , and are much pleas'd with their impertinences : Arriv'd at the Metropolis of civility , London , we put our selves in Coach , with some Persons of Quality , who came to conduct us to our Lodging ; but neither was this passage without honours done to us , the Kennel dirt , and roots being favours which were frequently cast at us by the Children , and Apprentices without reproof ; Civilities , that in Paris , a Gentleman as seldom meets withal , as with the contests of Car-Men , who in this Town domineer in the Streets , o'er-throw the Hell-Carts ( for so they name the Coaches ) Cursing , and reviling at the Nobles : You would imagine yourself amongst a Legion of Devils , and in the suburb of Hell. I have greatly wondered at the remisness of the Magistrate , and the temper of the Gentlemen , and that the Citizens , who subsist only upon them , should permit so great a disorder , rather joining in the affronts , than at all chastizing the Inhumanity . But , these are the natural effects of Parity , popular Libertinism , and Insulary Manners . I find , as you told me , My Lord , London to be a Town so nobly Scituated , and upon such a River , as Europe certainly shews not one more useful and agreeable ; Their Fountains , which are the Pride and Grace of our Streets , and plentifully supplyed in this City , are here immur'd , to secure the Waters from , I know not what , impurities : But certainly , it do's greatly detract from the beauty of the Carfours , and intercepts the view . Amongst the piece of Modern Architecture , I have never observ'd above two , which were Remarkable in this vast , City . The Church of St. Paul's , and the Banqueting-House at White-Hall , of which I remember to have heard your Lordship speak : But you would be amaz'd at the genius of these People , that not much above forty Years ago should suffer this goodly and venerable Fabrick , to be built about and converted into raskally Ware-Houses , and so sordidly obscur'd and defac'd , that an argument of great Avarice , Malice , Meanness , and deformity of Mind , cannot possibly be expressed : Nothing here of Ornament , nothing of Magnificence , ( only a heavy piece of Architecture ; ) no publick and honourable Works , such as render our Paris , and other Cities of France , renowned , and visited by all the World ; emulating even Italy herself , for her Palaces , uniform and conspicuous Structures : I assure your Lordship , that England is the sole spot in all the World , where among Christians their Churches have been made Jakes , and Stables , Markets and Tipling-Houses ; and where there were more need of Scorpions , than Thongs , to drive out the Publicans and Money-Changers : In sum , where these excellent uses , are pretended to be the Marks of Piety and Reformation . I had sometimes the curiosity to visit the several Worships of these Equivocal Christians , and Enthusiasts : But I extreamly wondred to find those whom they call Presbyterians , and that would imitate us of the Religion in France and Geneva , to have their Discipline so confused and different . In this remark , My Lord , to be somewhat more particular , you will not be displeas'd ; because it was a thing you so much recommended to my especial Notice . Form , they observe none ; They pray and read without method , and indeed , without Reverence or Devotion ; I have beheld a whole Congregation sit on their — with their Hats on , at the reading of the Psalms , and yet bare-headed when they sing them , in divers places they read not the Scriptures at all ; but up into the Pulpit , where they make an insipid , tedious and immethodical Prayer , in Phrases , and a tone so affected and mysterious , that they give it the name of Canting , a term by which they do usually express the Gibbrish of Beggars and Vagabonds ; after which , there follows the Sermon , consisting ( like their Prayers ) of Speculative and Abstracted Notions , and things , which , nor the People , nor themselves , well understand : But these they extend to an extraordinary length , and Pharisaical repetitions ; 'till almost they sleep ; I am sure , 'till their Auditors do . The Minister uses no Habit of distinction , or gravity , but steps up in querpo ; and when he lays by his Cloak ( as I have observed some of them ) he has the action rather of a Thrasher , than a Divine ; this they call taking pains , and indeed it is so , to those that hear them : But thus they have now encouraged every pert Mechanick to invade , affront and out-preach them ; and having cancel'd all manner of decency , prostituted both their Persons and Function to usurpation , penury and derision . You may well imagine by the manners of the People , and their prodigious Opinions , that there is no Catechisms , nor Sacraments duly Administred : The Religion of England is Preaching , and sitting still on Sundays . How they Baptize I know not , because the Congregation is dismissed , and they agree in no form ; and for the other Sacraments , no Man gives , or receives alike : Such of their Churches as I have frequented , were damned up with Pues , every three or four of the Inhabitants , sitting in narrow Pounds or Pulpits , by themselves ; for they are all turn'd Preachers now , In short , there is nothing more unlike to our reformed Churches in France and I think in all Europe beside ; the apprehension of Popery , or fondness to their own imaginations , having carry'd them so far to the other extream , that they have now lost all Moderation , and Decorum ; And I have been herein , My Lord , the more industrious to inform my self of each particular ; because it seems yet to be as publick as the Religion of the State. Some of their own party , I have heard deplore this confusion , but certainly , they themselves gave the first occasion to these Monstrous Liberties , by a Rigid , and Uncharitable Discipline ; primarily ( it seems ) introduced by the Scots , and so refined upon by these , as there are few or none that will submit to the Tyranny ; but every one takes his own course , and has protection for it . Some well natur'd abused Men I have met withal among them ; but , if I mistake not , for the greater Ingredient , Ambitious , Ignorant , Overweening , Sower , and Uncharitable , ne quid asperius , combining with the interest of the times , and , who to render themselves powerful , have in compliances with the Spirital Pride of the Mechanicks and Corporations , conniv'd at those many , and prodigious Schisms and Heresies which are now spawn'd under themin such numbers , as give terrour to the State. I omit to tell your Lordship that few take Notice of the Lord's-Prayer ; it is esteemed a kind of weakness to use it , but the Creed and the Decalogue are not once heard of in their Congregations ; This is Milk for Babes , and these are all Giants . They do frequently Solemnize their late National deliverances , and some days of Christian Bloodshed , with all possible exactness . But they think it gross Idolatry to join with the whole Christian Church of all Professions under Heaven , in the Anniversaries of our B. Saviours Incarnation , Passion , Resurrection , and descent of the Holy Ghost , Spiritual , Eternal , and never to be forgotten Mercies . Would your Lordship believe that this madness should advance so far , as to disturb the French-Church there , which you know , does in all places observe those signal Deliverances and Blessings , both by Preaching , Prayer , Sacraments and Exhortations , apposite to to the Occasion ; What think you will be the issue of this goodly Reformation ? I could tell you more of the Mysterious Classis ; their ridiculous , insidiary , and presumptuous Questions ; their unheard of Animosities against their Brethern of the Church of England , suffering themselves to be rather torn in sunder by the Sectaries , Demotrius and the Crafts-Men , whilst they contend about trifles and meer shadows . Concerning the Independents , all I can learn is ; They are a refined , and Apostate sort of Presbyters ; or , rather such as renounces all Ordination , as who having Preached promiscuously to the People , and cunningly ensnared a Select number of Rich , and ignorant Proselytes , separate themselves into Conventicles , which they name Congregations . There is nothing does more resemble this Sect , than our Rom. Missionaries sent out in partibus Insidelium ; for they take all other Christians to be Heathens . These are those great Pretenders to the Spirit , into whose Party , does the vilest Person living , no sooner ascribe himself , but he is , ipso facto , bubt a Saint , hallow'd , and dear to God. These , are the confidents , who can design the minute , the place , and the means of their Conversion : A Schism full of Spiritual disdain , incharity , and high imposture : But every alteration of State , destroying the interest of the versatile Contrivers , they are as ready to Transmigrate into the next more thriving Fraternity , as the souls of Pythagoras into Beasts , and may then perhaps , assume some other Title , This is a sad , but serious truth , and not a little menaces the common Christianity , unless timely prevented . But , Sir , I will not longer tire your patience with these Monsters ( the subject of every contemptuous Pamphlet ) nor with the madness of the Anabaptists , Quakers , ) ( which are increased to a prodigious number ) Fifth Monarchy-Men , and a Cento of unheard of Heresies besides , which , at present , deform the once renowned Church of England ; and approach so little the pretended Reformation , , which we in France have been made to believe they are arrived to . But I have dwelt too long on this remark , I return to the Town , where they arc pestred with Hackney-Coaches , and insolent Car-Men , Shops , and Taverns , Noise , and such a cloud of of Sea-Coals , that if there be a resemblance of Hell upon Earth , it is in this Vulcans in a Foggy Day : This pestilent Smoak so fatally seizes on the Lungs of the Inhabitants , that the Cough , and the Consumption spare no Man. I have been in a spacious Church , where I could not hear the Minister for the Peoples Barking . There is within this City , and in all the Towns of England ( which I have passed through ) so prodigious a number of Houses where they sell a certain Drink called Ale , that I think a good half of the Inhabitants may be Denominated Ale-House-Keepers , these are a meaner sort of Cabarets : But what is most deplorable , where some Gentlemen sit ( especially in the Country ) and spend much of their time ; drinking of a muddy kind of Beverage , and Tobacco , which has , universally besotted the Nation , and at which ( I hear ) they have consumed many noble Estates . As for other Taverns , London is Compos'd of them , where they drink Spanish and Red-Wines , and other Sophisticated Liquors to that fury and intemperance , as has often amaz'd me to consider it : But thus some mean Fellow , the Drawer , arrives to an Estate , some of them having built fair Houses , and purchased those Gentlemen out of their Possessions , who have ruined themselves by that base and dishonourable Nice of Ebriety : And that nothing may be wanting to the height of Luxury and Impiety of this Abomination , they have translated the Organs out of the Churches , to set them up in Taverns , and even a worse sort of Tipling-Houses , chanting their Dithyrambicks , and bestial Bacchanalias , to the Tune of those Instruments , which were wont to assist them , in the Celebration of God's Praises , and regulate the Voices of the worst Singers in the World , which are the English in their Churches at present ; I cannot but commend the Reformed in Holland , who still retain their Organs in the Churches , and make use of them at the Psalms , without any Opinion of Superstition ; and I once remember to have heard the Famous Diodati wish they might be introduc'd even at Geneva . A great error undoubtedly in those who sit at the Helm , to permit this scandal ; to suffer so many of these Taverns and occasions of Intemperance , such Leaches , and Vipers ; to gratifie so sordid and base a sort of People with the spoils of honest , and well Natur'd Men. Your Lordship , will not believe me that the Ladies of greatest Quality , suffer themselves to be treated in one of these Taverns , where a Curtesan in other Cities would scarcely vouchsafe to be entertained : But you will be more astonish'd when I shall assure you , that they drink their Crowned Cups , and roundly , strain Healths through their Smocks , Dance after the Fiddle , Kiss freely , and term it an honourable Treat . But all this my Experience , particular address , and habitudes with the greatest of that Nation has assur'd me , that it is not the pass time , only of the inferiour and Meretricious sort ; since I find it a chief suppletory at all their Entertainments , to drink Excessively , and that in their own Houses , before the Ladies , and the Lacques : It is the Afternoons diversion ; whether for want of better to employ the time , or affection to the drink , I know not : But I have found some Persons of Quality , who one could not safely visit after Dinner , without resolving to undergo this Drink Ordel , and endure the Question : It is esteem'd a piece of Wit , to make a Man Drunk , for which some swilling insiped Client , or Congiarie , is a frequent and constant adjutant , Your Lordship may hence well imagine , how heavy , dull , and insignificant the Conversation is ; loud , querillous , and impertinent . I shall relate a story that once happened in my presence , at a Gentleman's House in the Country , where there was much Company and Feasting . I chanced to come at Dinner-Time , and after the Cloth was taken away ( as the manner is ) they fell to their laudable Exercise : But I unacquainted then with their Custom , was lead up into a With-Drawing-Room , where I had the Permission ( with a Noble Person who introduced me ) to sit and converse with the Ladies , who were thither retired ; the Gentleman of the House leaving us in the mean time , to Entertain his Friends below : But you may imagine how strangely I was astonished ; to see within an hour after , one of the Company that had Dined there , entering into the Room all bloody , and disorder'd , to fetch a Sword which lay in one of the Windows , and three or four of his Companions , whom the Fumes of the Wine had inspirited , pursuing , and dragging him by the Hair , till in this confusion , one of their Spurs engaged into a Carpet , upon which stood a a very fair Looking-Glass , and two noble pieces of Porselain , drew all to the ground , broke the Glass , and the Vasas in pieces ; and all this on such an instant , that the Gentleman and my self , had much ado to rescue the affrighted Ladies from suffering in the tumult ; but at last we prevailed , and brought them to terms , the quarrel concerning an Health only , which one of them would have shifted . I don't remember , My Lord , ever to have known ( or very rarely ) a Health Drank in France , no not the King 's ; and if we say A vostre sante Monsieur , it neither expects Pledge , or Ceremony . 'T is here so the Custom to Drink to every one at the Table , that by the time a Gentleman has done his Duty to the whole Company , he is ready to fall asleep , whereas with us , we salute the whole Table with a single Glass only . But , My Lord , was not this , imagine you ; an admirable Scene and very Extraordinary ? I confess , the Lady of the House being much out of Countenance at what had happened , profered to excuse this disorder , and I was as ready to receive it , till several encounters confirmed me , that they were but too frequent , and that there was a sort of perfect : Debauchees , who stile themselves Hectors , that in their mad and unheard of Revils , pierce their Veins to quaff their own Blood , which some of them have Drank to that excess , that they died of the intemperance ; These are a professed Atheistical Order of Bravo's compos'd for the most of Cadets , who spending beyond their Pensions , to supply their extravagances , practise now and then the High-Way , where they sometimes borrow , that which they often repay at the Gibbet ; an Ignominious Trade , unheard of amongst our Gallant Nobles ; however Fortune reduce them . But I know not whether I might not here Match these Valiant Hero's with an avowed Society of Ladies , and some of them not of the meanest for Birth ( I even blush to recount it of that Fair Sex , ) who boast of making all advantages at Play , and are become so Dextrous at it , that seldom they make a sitting , without design and Booty ; For there is here , My Lord , no such thing as Courtship , after the decent mode of our Circles ; for either being mingled in a Room , the Gentlemen separate from the Conversation of the Ladies , to Drink , as before I related ; or else to Whisper with one another at some Carner , or Bay-Window , abandoning the Ladies to Gossip by themselves , which is a Custom so strange to a Gallant of our Nation , as nothing appears more barbarous and undecent ; and this in effect : must needs be the reason , that these Beautiful Creatures want assurance , address , and the charming Discourse of our Damoisels , which are faculties so shining , and agreeable in their Sex with us in France : And in truth even the Gentlemen themselves , are greatly defective as to this particular , ill Courtiers , Unpliant , Morose , and of Vulgar address ; generally , not so polished , free , and serene , as is universally found , even amongst the most inferiour of our Nation . I am not ignorant that they impute it to a certain levity m us ; but it is a mistake in them , and that because they so hardly reform it , without some ridiculous affectation , as is conspicuous in their several Modes and Dresses , which they vary ten times for our once ; every one affecting something particular ; as having no Standard at Court , which should give Laws , and Countenance the Fashion . The Women are much affected with Gaudry , there being nothing more frequent than to see an Ancient Lady wear Colours , a thing which neither Young , nor Old of either Sex do with us , save in the Country , and the Camp ; but Widows at no time . And yet reprove they us for these Exorbitances ; but I have often disputed the case : Either we do ill , or well ; if ill , why then do they ape us ? if well , why do they reproach us ? The truth is , they have no Moderation , and are neither so lucky , nor frugal as our Ladies are in these Sumptuary expences ; and whereof the Magistrates takes so little Cognisance , that it is not an easie matter to distingnish the Lady from the Chamber-Maid ; Servants being suffered in this brave Country , to go clad like their Mistresses , a thing neither decent , nor permitted in France , where they may wear neither Lace , nor Silk . I may not forget to acquaint your Lordship , that though the Ladies , and the Gentlemen are so shie of one another , yet when once they grow acquainted , it passes into expressions , and compellations extreamly new to our usages , and the stile of our Country : Do but imagine how it would become our Ladies , to call Monsieur N — Jack N. what more frequent than this ? Tom. P — was here to Day ; I went Yesterday to the * Cours with Will. R — Henry M — treated me at such a Travern ; These are the particular Idioms , and graceful Confidences now in use ; introduced I conceive at first by some Camerades one with another ; but it is mean and rude , and such as our Lacques , would almost disdain in Paris ; where I have often observed two Chimny-Sweepers , accost one another , in better Forms , and Civiller Addresses . But to be confident and civil , is not a thing so easily understood , and , seems a peculiar talent of our Nation . However the Ladies are not more obliging and Familiar , than the Lords are difficult and inaccessable ; for though by reason of my Birth , and Quality , my recommendations and addresses , I found some tolerable reception amongst them ; yet I observ'd , that they kept at such a surly distance with the Gentlemen , even of Family , that methought I never beheld a ruder Conversation ; especially , when comparing their Parts , and Educations , I found them generally so much inferiour , as if a Lord were indeed other than a Gentleman ; or a Gentleman 's not fit Companion for a King : But this must needs be the result of an ill , and haughty institution , and for that most of these great Persons are in their Minority , and the Age wherein they should be furnished with the noblest impressions , taught only to converse with their Servants , some Sycophants , and under the Regiment of a Pedant , which imprints that scornfulness and folly , and fits them with no better forms when they should produce themselves , and give testimony to others , as well of their Superiority in Virtue , as in Birth , and Dignity . But this is , My Lord , a particular , which I have heard you often complain of , and which we do frequently take notice of , at their coming abroad into our Country ; where for want of address , and fit Persons to introduce them , they seldom return more refined than they came , else they could not but have observ'd , that there is nothing which makes the distinction of Nobles in France , but the Title , and that his Majesty himself does them the honours , which here they usurp upon their equals ; But , My Lord , they are sufficiently punished for it in England : Where , to me they appear so degenerate , for want of this humility and free Conversation ; by which , and their other Vices , they grow now so much despised , that the Gentlemen need seek no Revenge : For though ( as I told you ) the Gentlemen are most of them very intemperate , yet the Proverb goes , As Drunk as a Lord. But , My Lord , as there is no rule so general , but it does admit of exceptions , so should I give my own Experience , as well as your Lordships the contradiction , to make the Censure Universal ; there being even amongst these , some few , and in particular my L. P. my L. M. my L. D. &c. whom I esteem to be very noble , and accomplished Persons , as who have learned ( by the good Fortune of a better Education ) how to value the Conversations of worthy Men , and who indeed , do sufficiently verefie all those Attributes which are due to their Qualities , and therefore whom this Paragraph does no ways concern . Nor should I be less severe and unjust , totally to exclude even some of the Ladies from the Advantages of this Period , whose perfections and Virtues , claim an equal right to all that I have here spoken , out of a due resentment of their Merits and Excelllencies . It was frequently , during the last Winter , that I was carried to their Balls , as where indeed , I expected to see what should appear the most of Gallant , and Splendid amongst the Ladies , nor really did my expectations deceive me ; for there was a confluence of very great Beauties , to which the glistering of their Jewels ( which upon this occasion they want not ) could add nothing save their Weight ; the various Habits being so particular , as if by some strange Inchantment , they had encountered , and come out of several Nations : But I was astonish'd to see , when they were ready to move , that a Dancing-Master , had the boldness to take forth the greatest Ladies , and they again the Dancing-Master , who performed the most part of the Ball , whilst the Gentlemen , that were present , were the least concerned , and stood looking on ; so as it appeared to me more like the Farce of a Comedy , than a Ball of the Nobles , and in truth , their measures , when any of them were taken out , made me some what asham'd to lead a Lady who did me the honour , for fear ( though my skill is very vulgar in that exercise ) they should have taken me for a Dancing-Master , as who had happily imploy'd my Youth so ill , as to have some advantage of the rest in that faculty . This favour is particular to the Dancing-Masters in this Country ; and Reason good ; for they have such ample Salaries , as maintains both their Prodigality , and an Insolence , that were insupportable in France , where these trifling Fellows do better know themselves , are worse payed , and less Presumptuous . Nay , so remiss are the Ladies , of their respect in this instance , that they not only entertain all this ; but permit themselves likewise to be invited , and often honour these impertinent Fantasticks , by receiving the Ball at their Petty Schools . When this Ceremony was ended , some of the Gallants fell to other Recreations , and as far as I understood , were Offering at that Innocent , yet Salt , and Pleasant diversion , which in France is called Rallery ; but so far were they from maintaining it within the decencies , and Laws , which both in that , and our Characters we observe that in a little time , they fell so upon personal abusing one another , that there was much ado to preserve the Peace , and as I heard , it was the next Day , the product of a Quarrel , and a Duel . I did frequently in the Spring , Accompany My Lord N. into a Field , near the Town , which they call Hide-Park ; the place not unplesant , and which they use , as our Course ; but not with that Order , Equipage , and Splendor ; there being an Assembly of such wretched Jades , and Hackney-Coaches , as quite takes away the resemblance . The next place to be remembred is the Spring-Garden , so called , and in order to the Park , as our Thuilleries is to the Course , the inclosure not disagreeable , for the solemness of the Grove , the warbling of the Birds ; but the Company Walk in it at such a rate , as you would think all the Ladies were so many Atalanta's , contending with their Wooers ; and my Lord , there was no appearance , that I should prove the Hippomenes , who could with very much ado , keep pace with them : But as fast as they run ; they stay there so long , as if they wanted not time to finish the Race ; for it is usual here to find some of the Young Company till midnight ; and the Thickets of the Garden seem to be contrived to all Advantages of Gallantry , after they have been refreshed with the Collation , which is here seldom omitted , at a certain Cabaret in the middle of this Paradise ; where the forbidden Fruits are certain trifling Tarts , Neats-Tongues , Salacious-Meats , and bad Rhenish ; for which the Gallants pay sauce , as indeed they do at all such Houses throughout England ; for they think it is a piece of Frugality beneath them , to Bargain , or Accompt , for what they Eat in any place , however unreasonably imposed upon ; But thus , those mean Fellows are ( as I told your Lordship ) inriched ; Begger , and insult over the Gentlemen . I am assur'd that this particular Host . Has purchased , within few Years , 5000 Livers of annual rent ; and well he may ? at the rates these Prodigials pay , whereas , in France , a Gentleman esteems it no Diminution to Manage even these expences with Reason . But , My Lord , it is now late , and time to quit this Garden , and to tell you , that I think there is not a more Illustrious sight in the World , than to meet the Divinities of our Court , marching up the long Walk in the Thuilleries , where the pace is so stay'd and grave , the encounters so regular and decent ; and where those who feed their Eyes with their Beauties , and their Ears with the Charming Accent of their Discourse , and Voices , need not those refreshments of the other Senses , finding them all to be so taken up with these . I was curious before my return , and when I had Conquer'd some difficulties of the Language , and Customs , to visit their Judicatures , where , besides , that few of their Gownmen , are to be compared to those of the Robe in our Palais for Elocution , and the talent of well speaking ; so neither do they at all exceed them , in the forms and colours of their Pleading ; but ( as before I spake of their Rallery ) supply the defects of the Cause , with flat , insipid , and grosly abusing one another ; a thing to trifling , and misbecoming the gravity of Courts ( where the Lawyers take Liberty to Jest Mens Estates away , and yet avow their Avarice ) that I have much admired at the temper of the Judges , and their remissness in reforming it : There was a Young Person , whom at my being there , was very much cried up for his Abilities , and in whom I did not observe that usual intemperance , which I but now reproved ; and certainly , it springs either for want of those Abilities , which the Municipal Laws of this Nation ( consisting most of them in Customs like our Normandy , whose Ancient Dialect their Books yet retain ) are so little apt to furnish ; or the defect of those advantages , which the more pollished Sciences afford us , without which , it is impossible to be good Orators , and to maintain their Discourses without diversion , to that vile nency . But , what is infinitely agreeable in this Country , are the Bowling-Greens , and the Races , which are really such pleasures abroad , as we have nothing approaching them in France , and which I was extreamly delighted in ; but the Verdure of the Country , and delicious Downs , are what gives them this preheminence , and indeed , they are to be valued , and do in m● esteem , very much commute for the loss of that glorious Planet , which ripens our Vines in France . The Horses , and the Dogs , their incomparable Parks , of Fallow-deer , and Laws of Chase , I extreamly approve of ; but upon other occasions , all Englishmen ride so fast upon the Road , that you would swear there were some Enemy in the Ariere ; and all the Coaches in London seem to drive for Mid-Wives . But what did much more afflict me , is their Ceremony at Table , where every Man is obliged to sit till all have done Eating , however , their Appetites differ , and to see the formality of the Voider , which our With-Drawing-Rooms in France are made to prevent , and might so here , if they knew the use of them , to be , that every Man may rise when he has din'd , without the least indecency , and leave the Servers to their Office. I have now but a Word to add , and 〈◊〉 is the tediousness of Visits , which they ma●● here so long , that it is a very Tyra●●y , to sit to so little purpose : If the Persons be Ladies , that are strangers , it is to look upon each other , as if they had never seen any of their own Kind before , and hand here indeed the Virtue of their Sex is Eminent . For they are as silent and fixt as Statues ; or if they do talk , it is with Censure , and sufficient confidence : So difficult it is , to Entertain with a grace , or to observe a Mediocrity . In sum , My Lord , I found so many particulars , worthy of reproof in all those Remarks , which I have been able to make , That to render you a veritable account of England , as it is at present , I must pronounce , with the Poet. Difficile est Satyram non scribere . And shall defer what I have further to add till the return of my Lord Ambassador . FINIS . Notes, typically marginal, from the original text Notes for div A38791-e630 Description of the Country . Beauty of the Ladies Rudeness of the English . Confidence of the Inn-Keepers . The Ill manners of the Commonalty at London . Description of London . Description of the Prebyterians . Descripti - of the Independents , Auabaptists , Quakers , &c. Of the Cough . Of their Ale. Of their Taverns . Women at Taverns , and Drink Healths . Of the hard Drinking at private Houses . Of the quarelling among the English . Younger Brothers Rob on the High-Way . The Ladies want Address , and Confidence . Have no Standard for Dressing . Old Women in Coloured Clothes . * A place near Paris like Hide-Park . English Women have Familiar ways with them . Some of the Lords surley . Whence the Proverb , As Drunk as a Lord. Their Balls . The Insolence of the Dancing Masters . The English Bunglers at A R●●ll●ry . Of Hide Park . Of Spring-Garden . Where they plead as at Westminster . Of the Pleading amongst the Lawyers . Of the Bowling-Greens & Races . Of the Horses , & Dogs , Parks , &c. They don't know the use of With-Drawing-Rooms . Woman sometimes Silent .