John Taylors vvandering, to see the vvonders of the vvest. How he travelled neere 600. miles, from London to the Mount in Cornwall, and beyond the Mount, to the Lands end, and home againe. Dedicated to all his loving friends, and free minded benefactors. In these dangerous dayes for rich men, and miserable times for the poore servants of the late King, (whereof I was one, 45. yeers to his royall father and himself) I thought it needful to take some course to make use of some friends, and devise a painfull way for my subsistence; which was the journey I have past, and this booke heere present; for which purpose I gave out many of these following bills, to which neere 3000. gentlemen and others, have kindly subscribed, to give me a reasonable reward.
         Taylor, John, 1580-1653.
      
       
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             John Taylors vvandering, to see the vvonders of the vvest. How he travelled neere 600. miles, from London to the Mount in Cornwall, and beyond the Mount, to the Lands end, and home againe. Dedicated to all his loving friends, and free minded benefactors. In these dangerous dayes for rich men, and miserable times for the poore servants of the late King, (whereof I was one, 45. yeers to his royall father and himself) I thought it needful to take some course to make use of some friends, and devise a painfull way for my subsistence; which was the journey I have past, and this booke heere present; for which purpose I gave out many of these following bills, to which neere 3000. gentlemen and others, have kindly subscribed, to give me a reasonable reward.
             Taylor, John, 1580-1653.
          
           [2], 21, [1] p.
           
             s.n.],
             [London :
             Printed in the yeer 1649.
          
           
             Partly in verse.
             Place of publication from Wing.
             Annotation on Thomason copy: "7ber [i.e. September] 12 1649".
             Reproduction of the original in the British Library.
          
        
      
    
     
       
         eng
      
       
         
           England -- Description and travel -- 1601-1700.
        
      
    
       A64216  R203757  (Wing T528).  civilwar no John Taylors vvandering, to see the vvonders of the vvest. How he travelled neere 600. miles, from London to the Mount in Cornwall, and beyo Taylor, John 1649    7263 9 0 0 0 0 0 12 C  The  rate of 12 defects per 10,000 words puts this text in the C category of texts with between 10 and 35 defects per 10,000 words. 
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           JOHN
           TAYLORS
           VVandering
           ,
           to
           see
           the
           VVonders
           of
           the
           VVEST
           .
        
         
           How
           he
           travelled
           neere
           600.
           
           Miles
           ,
           from
           London
           to
           the
           Mount
           in
           Cornwall
           ,
           and
           beyond
           the
           Mount
           ,
           to
           the
           Lands
           end
           ,
           and
           home
           againe
           .
        
         
           Dedicated
           to
           all
           his
           loving
           Friends
           ,
           and
           free
           minded
           Benefactors
           .
        
         
           In
           these
           dangerous
           dayes
           for
           Rich
           men
           ,
           and
           miserable
           times
           for
           the
           Poore
           Servants
           of
           the
           late
           King
           ,
           (
           whereof
           I
           was
           one
           ,
           45.
           yeers
           to
           his
           Royall
           Father
           and
           Himself
           )
           I
           thought
           it
           needful
           to
           take
           some
           course
           to
           make
           use
           of
           some
           friends
           ,
           and
           devise
           a
           painfull
           way
           for
           my
           subsistence
           ;
           which
           was
           the
           Journey
           I
           have
           past
           ,
           and
           this
           Booke
           heere
           present
           ;
           for
           which
           purpose
           I
           gave
           out
           many
           of
           these
           following
           Bills
           ,
           to
           which
           neere
           3●00
           .
           Gentlemen
           and
           others
           ,
           have
           kindly
           subscribed
           ,
           to
           give
           me
           a
           reasonable
           reward
           .
        
         
           Printed
           in
           the
           Yeere
           1649.
           
        
      
    
     
       
       
         
           TAYLORS
           Westerne
           Voyage
           to
           the
           Mount
           .
        
         
           T
           Is
           a
           mad
           world
           (
           my
           masters
           )
           and
           in
           sadnes
        
         
           I
           travail'd
           madly
           in
           these
           dayes
           of
           madnes
           :
        
         
           Eight
           yeares
           a
           
             frenzy
          
           did
           this
           Land
           molest
           ,
        
         
           The
           ninth
           year
           seem'd
           to
           be
           much
           like
           the
           rest
           ,
        
         
           My selfe
           (
           with
           age
           ,
           griefe
           ,
           wrongs
           ,
           and
           wants
           opprest
           ,
        
         
           With
           troubles
           more
           then
           patience
           could
           digest
           )
        
         
           Amongst
           those
           Isles
           ,
           I
           chose
           the
           least
           and
           best
           ,
        
         
           Which
           was
           to
           take
           this
           journey
           to
           the
           West
           :
        
         
           And
           sure
           it
           is
           an
           Argument
           most
           fit
           ,
        
         
           That
           he
           who
           hath
           a
           portion
           of
           small
           wit
        
         
           As
           I
           have
           ,
           and
           good
           store
           of
           friends
           ,
           't
           were
           sloth
        
         
           And
           foolery
           ,
           not
           to
           make
           use
           of
           both
           .
        
         
           My
           wit
           was
           worne
           thread
           bare
           ,
           halfe
           naked
           ,
           poore
           .
        
         
           And
           I
           ,
           with
           it
           ,
           went
           wool-gath'ring
           for
           more
           .
        
         
           This
           long
           walke
           (
           first
           and
           last
           )
           I
           undertooke
        
         
           On
           purpose
           to
           get
           money
           by
           my
           Booke
           :
        
         
           My
           friends
           (
           I
           know
           )
           will
           pay
           me
           for
           my
           paine
           .
        
         
           And
           I
           will
           never
           trouble
           them
           againe
           .
        
         
           Six
           hundred
           miles
           ,
           I
           (
           very
           neere
           )
           have
           footed
           ,
        
         
           And
           all
           that
           time
           was
           neither
           sho'd
           or
           booted
           ;
        
         
         
           But
           in
           light
           buskins
           I
           perform'd
           this
           traveli
        
         
           O're
           hill
           and
           dale
           ,
           through
           dust
           dirt
           ,
           flint
           ,
           and
           gravell
           .
        
         
           And
           now
           no
           more
           words
           I
           in
           vaine
           will
           scatter
           ,
        
         
           But
           come
           unto
           the
           marrow
           of
           the
           matter
           .
        
         
           My
           Reader
           must
           not
           her
           suppose
           that
           I
        
         
           Will
           write
           a
           treatise
           of
           Geography
           :
        
         
           Or
           that
           I
           meane
           to
           make
           ex●ct
           Relations
        
         
           Of
           Cities
           ,
           Townes
           ,
           or
           Countries
           scituations
           ;
        
         
           Such
           men
           as
           those
           I
           turne
           them
           o're
           to
           reade
        
         
           The
           learned
           
             Cambden
             ,
          
           or
           the
           painefull
           
             Speed
             .
          
        
         
           And
           now
           (
           good
           Reader
           )
           I
           my
           muse
           do
           tune
           ,
        
         
           I
           
             London
          
           left
           ,
           the
           twenty
           one
           of
           
             June
          
           :
        
         
           To
           Brainford
           ,
           Colebrooke
           ,
           Maidenhead
           and
           Henly
           ,
        
         
           I
           past
           (
           the
           weather
           faire
           ,
           the
           high
           wayes
           cleanely
           )
        
         
           To
           
             Abington
             .
          
           where
           foure
           dayes
           I
           remain'd
           ,
        
         
           By
           friends
           and
           kinsfolkes
           kindely
           entertain'd
           :
        
         
           Thankes
           to
           my
           Nephew
           
             John
             ,
          
           with
           all
           the
           rest
           ,
        
         
           To
           whom
           that
           time
           I
           was
           a
           costly
           Guest
           .
        
         
           AND
           now
           me
           thinkes
           a
           little
           Profe
           may
           be
           relished
           amongst
           friends
           ;
           I
           left
           
             Abington
          
           on
           Wednesday
           the
           27.
           of
           June
           ,
           and
           (
           for
           the
           case
           of
           my
           purse
           )
           I
           gave
           2s
           .
           6d
           .
           for
           the
           hire
           of
           the
           Skelliton
           or
           Anatomy
           of
           a
           Beast
           to
           carry
           me
           ten
           miles
           to
           
             Farington
             ;
          
           the
           thing
           I
           was
           mounted
           on
           was
           neither
           Horse
           ,
           Mine
           ,
           or
           Gelding
           ,
           it
           was
           all
           spirit
           ,
           with
           very
           little
           (
           or
           no
           flesh
           .
           )
           It
           was
           none
           of
           your
           pursy
           foggy
           Jades
           ,
           and
           amongst
           Horsemen
           it
           might
           have
           past
           for
           a
           Light
           Horse
           ,
           too
           much
           worke
           ,
           and
           too
           little
           meate
           ,
           made
           him
           as
           gaunt
           as
           a
           Greyhound
           :
           Thus
           (
           mounted
           like
           
             Don
             Quixot
          
           )
           I
           entred
           
             Farington
             ,
          
           but
           worse
           Guests
           then
           I
           had
           been
           
           there
           since
           these
           troubles
           ;
           for
           the
           Kings
           Party
           burnt
           one
           part
           of
           the
           Towne
           ,
           and
           the
           Parliaments
           fired
           the
           rest
           ,
           so
           that
           between
           them
           there
           was
           a
           good
           hansome
           Market
           Towne
           turned
           into
           Ashes
           and
           Rubbidge
           :
           It
           begins
           to
           bud
           and
           spring
           out
           againe
           ,
           for
           heere
           and
           there
           a
           pritty
           house
           peepes
           up
           :
           so
           that
           it
           will
           in
           short
           time
           be
           rebuilt
           ,
           and
           Phaenix
           like
           (
           out
           of
           it's
           owne
           cinders
           )
           be
           revived
           and
           reneued
           to
           a
           more
           pleasing
           and
           beautifull
           prospect
           .
        
         
           From
           
             Farington
          
           I
           footed
           it
           foure
           miles
           to
           
             Hiworth
             ,
          
           (
           a
           Market
           Towne
           )
           and
           from
           thence
           to
           
             Purton
          
           seaven
           miles
           more
           ,
           where
           I
           lodged
           ,
           there
           was
           nothing
           remarkable
           in
           all
           that
           dayes
           travels
           ;
           but
           that
           in
           the
           morning
           a
           Church
           at
           a
           Village
           called
           
             Kingston
             ,
          
           (
           five
           miles
           from
           
             Abington
          
           having
           no
           steeple
           ;
           but
           the
           Church
           at
           
             Purton
          
           (
           where
           I
           lay
           all
           night
           )
           had
           two
           steeples
           :
           but
           I
           was
           certified
           that
           the
           Minister
           that
           had
           two
           steeples
           ,
           had
           but
           one
           Benefice
           ,
           and
           he
           that
           had
           none
           ,
           had
           two
           ,
           by
           which
           meanes
           the
           reckoning
           was
           even
           betwixt
           them
           ,
           for
           what
           the
           one
           had
           ,
           the
           other
           had
           not
           .
        
         
           The
           28.
           of
           
             Iune
             ,
          
           I
           betook
           me
           to
           my
           feete
           an
           house
           and
           halfe
           before
           the
           Sunne
           could
           shew
           his
           face
           in
           Somersetshire
           ,
           and
           for
           one
           shilling
           I
           hired
           an
           old
           drunkard
           to
           guide
           me
           eight
           long
           miles
           to
           the
           Towne
           of
           
             Malmsbury
             ,
          
           where
           all
           worthy
           remembrance
           was
           ,
           that
           I
           found
           an
           Ancient
           Towne
           ,
           an
           old
           Castle
           ,
           and
           new
           Ale
           ;
           from
           thence
           I
           hired
           a
           Horse
           for
           25.
           seaven
           miles
           ,
           and
           footed
           it
           seaven
           miles
           more
           that
           day
           to
           the
           famous
           ,
           renowned
           ,
           ancient
           ,
           little
           pritty
           City
           of
           
             Bathe
             ,
          
           I
           lodged
           in
           the
           Mayors
           house
           :
           But
           his
           Worship
           was
           as
           ignorant
           as
           my selfe
           ,
           for
           he
           being
           a
           Baker
           ,
           had
           let
           
           halfe
           his
           house
           to
           a
           Victualler
           :
           so
           he
           sold
           bread
           without
           ,
           and
           I
           bought
           drinke
           within
           :
           The
           next
           day
           I
           had
           notice
           where
           I
           was
           ,
           wherefore
           I
           went
           to
           his
           stall
           or
           shop
           window
           ,
           and
           told
           him
           what
           I
           was
           ,
           and
           that
           I
           was
           he
           who
           came
           nine
           yeares
           agoe
           from
           
             London
             ,
          
           to
           that
           City
           with
           a
           small
           Scullers
           Boate
           ;
           Mr.
           
           Mayor
           was
           pleased
           to
           entertaine
           me
           most
           kindely
           (
           with
           both
           his
           hands
           in
           his
           pocket
           )
           and
           like
           a
           man
           of
           few
           words
           ,
           forbore
           to
           say
           wellcome
           to
           Towne
           ;
           so
           wee
           parting
           dryly
           I
           left
           him
           in
           his
           shop
           ,
           Lord
           Baron
           of
           the
           Browne
           Loaves
           ,
           and
           Master
           of
           the
           Rolls
           (
           in
           that
           place
           :
           )
           but
           there
           is
           no
           doubt
           but
           the
           man
           may
           live
           a
           faire
           age
           ,
           and
           dye
           in
           his
           bed
           ,
           if
           be
           escape
           the
           unfortunate
           destiny
           of
           
             Pharoahs
          
           Baker
           .
        
         
           Friday
           29.
           of
           
             Iune
             ,
          
           I
           had
           the
           luck
           twice
           to
           have
           not
           one
           dry
           thread
           about
           me
           ,
           (
           being
           wet
           to
           the
           very
           skin
           )
           and
           yet
           my
           cloathes
           were
           as
           dry
           as
           a
           bone
           :
           the
           reason
           is
           ,
           that
           I
           was
           in
           the
           Bathe
           ,
           and
           my
           cloathes
           out
           .
        
         
           
             Iune
          
           30.
           
           I
           travelled
           fifteene
           miles
           to
           the
           Towne
           of
           
             Wells
             ,
          
           where
           I
           stayd
           but
           little
           ,
           and
           found
           as
           little
           matter
           of
           observation
           ,
           but
           that
           these
           holy
           ,
           prophane
           days
           ,
           and
           blessed
           execrable
           Times
           of
           troublesome
           tranquility
           ,
           have
           spoyled
           and
           defaced
           one
           of
           the
           goodliest
           and
           magnificent
           Cathedrall
           Churches
           in
           the
           Christian
           world
           :
           But
           such
           pious
           workes
           as
           polution
           and
           abusing
           of
           Churches
           ,
           wee
           neede
           not
           goe
           amongst
           Turkes
           for
           proofes
           ;
           for
           though
           
             Peters
          
           at
           
             Westminster
          
           hath
           scaped
           reasonable
           cleanely
           ,
           yet
           
             Pauls
          
           in
           
             London
          
           hath
           layen
           out
           of
           order
           ,
           in
           ord●●e
           a
           battenning
           .
        
         
           The
           same
           day
           I
           went
           foure
           miles
           further
           to
           the
           ancient
           Towne
           of
           
             Glastonbury
             ,
          
           there
           I
           saw
           the
           Ruines
           of
           an
           Abby
           ,
           which
           was
           one
           of
           the
           statelyest
           and
           
           most
           sumptuous
           structures
           in
           
             England
          
           or
           
             Europe
             :
          
           there
           ●●●●aines
           yet
           the
           ruined
           walls
           of
           a
           Chappell
           built
           in
           memory
           of
           Joseph
           of
           
             Arimathea
          
           (
           who
           as
           it
           is
           recorded
           by
           Authentique
           Historians
           )
           did
           first
           convert
           this
           Land
           from
           Paganisme
           to
           Christianity
           :
           
             And
             wee
             have
             great
             neede
             of
             another
             good
             Ioseph
             to
             come
             amongst
             us
             ,
             to
             doe
             as
             much
             for
             us
             now
             .
          
           But
           there
           is
           no
           memoriall
           of
           any
           place
           where
           that
           good
           old
           man
           was
           buried
           :
           the
           Abby
           was
           walled
           more
           then
           a
           mile
           about
           ,
           with
           a
           wall
           of
           free-stone
           ,
           as
           faire
           as
           
             London
          
           wall
           ;
           it
           is
           very
           probable
           that
           King
           
             Arthur
          
           (
           our
           English
           Worthy
           )
           was
           there
           sepulchred
           :
           for
           there
           I
           saw
           some
           stones
           of
           Marble
           ,
           of
           which
           I
           placed
           the
           broken
           pieces
           together
           ;
           I
           read
           these
           words
           in
           Latin
           ,
           
             Hic
             jacet
             Guineverus
             Regins
             ,
             Vxores
             ,
             &c.
             
          
        
         
           Queene
           
             Guinever
          
           was
           Wife
           to
           the
           great
           
             Arthur
             ,
          
           and
           she
           being
           buried
           there
           ,
           it
           is
           to
           be
           conjectured
           that
           his
           bones
           were
           not
           layd
           far
           from
           her
           .
        
         
           Mr.
           
             Camden
             ,
          
           doth
           quote
           the
           Ancient
           Historian
           ,
           
             William
             of
             Malmsbury
             ,
          
           to
           write
           these
           words
           following
           concerning
           
             Glastenbury
             .
          
        
         
           That
           it
           was
           the
           first
           Land
           of
           God
           in
           
             England
             ,
          
           the
           first
           Land
           of
           Saints
           in
           
             England
             ,
          
           the
           beginning
           and
           fountaine
           of
           all
           Religion
           in
           England
           ,
           the
           Tombe
           of
           Saints
           ,
           the
           Mother
           of
           Saints
           ,
           the
           Church
           founded
           and
           built
           by
           the
           Lords
           Disciples
           .
        
         
           I
           saw
           a
           branch
           or
           slip
           of
           the
           Hawthorne
           Tree
           that
           did
           beare
           .
           Blossomes
           every
           yeare
           (
           when
           all
           other
           Trees
           were
           frost-bitten
           ,
           and
           seemed
           dead
           :
           )
           this
           Tree
           onely
           ,
           on
           Christmas
           day
           ,
           the
           day
           of
           our
           blessed
           Saviours
           Birth
           ;
           this
           Tree
           did
           (
           in
           its
           kinde
           )
           snew
           its
           joy
           in
           comemoration
           of
           the
           Nativity
           of
           the
           Redeemer
           
           of
           unkinde
           mankinde
           :
           There
           are
           all
           the
           Inhabitants
           in
           the
           Towne
           will
           verifie
           it
           ,
           and
           thousands
           in
           
             England
          
           and
           other
           Countries
           will
           affirme
           that
           it
           is
           no
           Fable
           :
           The
           Souldiers
           being
           over
           zealous
           did
           cut
           it
           downe
           in
           pure
           devotion
           ;
           but
           a
           Vintner
           dwelling
           in
           the
           Towne
           did
           save
           a
           great
           ship
           or
           branch
           of
           it
           ,
           and
           placed
           or
           set
           it
           in
           his
           Garden
           ,
           and
           he
           with
           others
           did
           tell
           me
           that
           the
           same
           doth
           likewise
           Bloome
           on
           the
           25.
           day
           of
           
             December
             ,
          
           yearely
           ;
           I
           saw
           the
           sayd
           branch
           ,
           and
           it
           was
           ten
           foote
           high
           ,
           greene
           ,
           and
           flourishing
           ;
           I
           did
           take
           a
           dead
           Sprigge
           from
           it
           ,
           wherewith
           I
           made
           two
           or
           three
           Tobacco
           stoppers
           ,
           which
           I
           brought
           to
           
             London
          
           ;
           my
           humble
           thankes
           to
           Mr.
           
             Brooke
             ,
          
           with
           (
           his
           good
           Sister
           )
           for
           they
           entertained
           me
           freely
           ;
           so
           that
           the
           Towne
           of
           
             Glastonbury
          
           was
           not
           one
           penny
           the
           richer
           for
           any
           expences
           of
           mine
           .
        
         
           Monday
           the
           second
           of
           
             Iuly
             ,
          
           I
           went
           to
           
             Bridgewater
          
           ten
           miles
           ,
           where
           all
           that
           was
           worthy
           of
           note
           was
           ,
           that
           neare
           the
           Towne
           ,
           at
           a
           stile
           I
           had
           a
           great
           disaster
           ;
           for
           a
           shagge
           or
           splinter
           of
           the
           stile
           tooke
           hold
           of
           my
           one
           and
           onely
           breeches
           ,
           and
           tore
           them
           in
           that
           extreme
           unmercifull
           ,
           unmannerly
           manner
           ,
           that
           for
           shame
           and
           modesties
           sake
           I
           was
           faine
           to
           put
           them
           off
           ,
           and
           goe
           breechlesse
           into
           the
           Towne
           ,
           where
           I
           found
           a
           botching
           threepenny
           Taylor
           ,
           who
           did
           patch
           me
           up
           with
           such
           reparations
           as
           made
           me
           not
           ashamed
           to
           put
           my
           breeches
           on
           againe
           ,
           and
           trot
           five
           miles
           further
           to
           a
           ragged
           Market
           Towne
           called
           
             Neather-St●y
             ,
          
           where
           extreame
           weary
           ,
           I
           tooke
           up
           my
           lodging
           ,
           at
           a
           signe
           and
           no
           signe
           ,
           which
           formerly
           was
           the
           Rose
           and
           Crowne
           ;
           but
           Roses
           are
           withered
           ,
           and
           Crownes
           are
           obscured
           ,
           as
           the
           signe
           was
           .
        
         
         
           Surely
           that
           day
           was
           a
           mad
           ,
           sad
           ,
           glad
           ,
           auspicious
           ,
           unlucky
           day
           to
           me
           ,
           worse
           then
           an
           Ominous
           ,
           Childermas
           ,
           or
           a
           dogged
           byting
           dog-day
           ;
           for
           the
           Hostesse
           was
           out
           of
           Towne
           ,
           mine
           Host
           was
           very
           sufficiently
           drunke
           ,
           the
           house
           most
           delicately
           deckt
           with
           exquisite
           artificiall
           ,
           and
           naturall
           sluttery
           ,
           the
           roome
           be
           sprinckled
           and
           strewed
           with
           the
           excrements
           of
           Pigs
           and
           Children
           ;
           the
           wall
           and
           sielings
           were
           adorned
           and
           hanged
           with
           rare
           Spiders
           Tapistry
           ,
           or
           cobweb
           Lawne
           ;
           the
           smoake
           was
           so
           palpable
           and
           perspicuous
           ,
           that
           I
           could
           scarce
           see
           any
           thing
           else
           ,
           and
           yet
           I
           could
           scarce
           see
           that
           ,
           it
           so
           blinded
           me
           with
           Rheum
           a
           signe
           of
           weeping
           ;
           besides
           all
           this
           ,
           the
           odorifferous
           and
           contagious
           perfume
           of
           that
           house
           was
           able
           to
           outvie
           all
           the
           Millainers
           in
           Christendome
           or
           Somersetshire
           .
        
         
           I
           being
           thus
           embellished
           ,
           or
           encompassed
           with
           these
           most
           unmatchable
           varieties
           ;
           but
           to
           comfort
           me
           compleatly
           ,
           mine
           Host
           swing'd
           off
           halfe
           a
           pot
           to
           me
           ,
           bad
           me
           be
           merry
           ,
           and
           asked
           me
           if
           I
           would
           have
           any
           powdred
           Beefe
           and
           Carrets
           to
           supper
           ;
           I
           told
           him
           yes
           ,
           with
           all
           my
           heart
           ;
           but
           I
           being
           weary
           of
           the
           house
           ,
           I
           went
           and
           sate
           three
           houres
           in
           the
           street
           ,
           where
           mine
           Host
           often
           did
           visit
           me
           with
           most
           delightfull
           and
           hydropicall
           non-sense
           ;
           at
           last
           ,
           7
           of
           the
           clock
           was
           struck
           ,
           and
           I
           went
           into
           the
           house
           to
           see
           if
           supper
           were
           ready
           ;
           but
           I
           found
           small
           comfort
           there
           ,
           for
           the
           fire
           was
           out
           ,
           no
           Beefe
           to
           be
           boyled
           ,
           mine
           Host
           fast
           asleep
           ,
           the
           Maid
           attending
           the
           hogs
           ,
           and
           my
           hungry
           selfe
           halfe
           starv'd
           with
           expectation
           ;
           I
           awaked
           mine
           Host
           ,
           and
           asked
           him
           where
           the
           Beefe
           was
           ,
           he
           told
           me
           that
           he
           had
           none
           ,
           and
           desired
           me
           to
           be
           contented
           with
           egges
           
           fryed
           with
           parsly
           ;
           I
           prayed
           him
           to
           shew
           me
           my
           chamber
           ,
           which
           he
           did
           ;
           the
           chamber
           was
           sutable
           to
           the
           rest
           of
           the
           house
           ;
           there
           I
           stayd
           till
           neere
           9
           a
           clock
           ,
           expecting
           fry'd
           egges
           ,
           when
           mine
           Host
           came
           to
           me
           with
           an
           empty
           answer
           ,
           there
           were
           no
           egges
           to
           be
           had
           ,
           so
           at
           the
           last
           I
           purchased
           a
           piece
           of
           bread
           and
           butter
           ,
           and
           to
           bed
           ,
           and
           then
           began
           my
           further
           torments
           ;
           for
           thinking
           to
           take
           a
           little
           rest
           ,
           I
           was
           furiously
           assualted
           by
           an
           Ethiopian
           Army
           of
           Fleas
           ,
           and
           do
           verily
           believe
           that
           I
           layd
           so
           manfully
           about
           me
           that
           I
           made
           more
           then
           500
           
             mortuus
             est
          
           :
           they
           were
           so
           wel
           grown
           that
           as
           I
           took
           'em
           I
           gave
           'em
           no
           quarter
           ,
           but
           rub'd
           'em
           between
           my
           finger
           and
           my
           thumbe
           ,
           and
           they
           were
           so
           plumpe
           &
           mellow
           ,
           that
           they
           would
           squash
           to
           pieces
           like
           yong
           boyled
           pease
           :
           But
           all
           these
           troubles
           I
           patiently
           past
           by
           ,
           making
           no
           more
           account
           of
           them
           ,
           then
           of
           so
           many
           Flea-bytings
           .
           For
           my
           further
           delight
           ,
           my
           chamber-pot
           seemed
           to
           be
           lined
           within
           with
           crimson
           plush
           ,
           or
           shag'd
           scarlet
           bayes
           ,
           it
           had
           scaped
           a
           scowring
           time
           out
           of
           minde
           ,
           it
           was
           fur'd
           with
           antiquity
           ,
           and
           withall
           it
           had
           a
           monumentall
           savour
           ;
           and
           this
           pisse-pot
           was
           another
           of
           my
           best
           contentments
           .
        
         
           At
           last
           ,
           wearinesse
           and
           watching
           ,
           began
           to
           inforce
           sleep
           upon
           me
           ,
           so
           that
           (
           in
           spight
           of
           the
           fleas
           teeth
           )
           I
           began
           to
           winke
           ,
           when
           suddenly
           ,
           three
           children
           began
           to
           cry
           ,
           and
           for
           an
           hours
           space
           I
           was
           kept
           waking
           ,
           which
           made
           mee
           fall
           to
           the
           slaughter
           againe
           .
           The
           children
           being
           hush'd
           asleep
           ,
           the
           game
           began
           afresh
           amongst
           the
           dogs
           ,
           for
           the
           cry
           was
           up
           ,
           and
           the
           bawling
           Currs
           took
           the
           word
           one
           from
           the
           other
           ,
           all
           the
           Towne
           over
           ;
           and
           the
           dogs
           had
           no
           sooner
           done
           ,
           but
           the
           day
           break
           appeared
           ,
           and
           the
           hogs
           began
           to
           cry
           
           cut
           for
           their
           breakfast
           :
           so
           I
           arose
           ,
           and
           travelled
           (
           almost
           sleeping
           )
           10.
           miles
           that
           day
           ;
           which
           was
           to
           a
           Towne
           called
           
             Dunstar
             ,
          
           where
           upon
           a
           lofty
           hill
           stands
           a
           strong
           Castle
           ,
           it
           had
           then
           a
           Garrison
           in
           it
           ;
           I'must
           confesse
           I
           was
           free
           there
           ,
        
         
           
             From
             nasty
             Roomes
             ,
             that
             never
             fels
             broomes
             ,
          
           
             From
             excrements
             ,
             and
             all
             bad
             sents
             ,
          
           
             From
             childrens
             bawling
             ,
             and
             caterwawling
             ,
          
           
             From
             grunting
             of
             hogs
             ,
             and
             barking
             of
             dogs
             ,
          
           
             And
             from
             byting
             of
             Fleas
             ,
             there
             I
             found
             ease
             .
          
        
         
           The
           fourth
           of
           
             Iuly
             ,
          
           I
           travelled
           to
           Exfourd
           (
           so
           named
           )
           because
           it
           stands
           near
           the
           head
           ,
           or
           spring
           of
           the
           River
           
             Ex
             ,
          
           which
           runs
           downe
           fom
           North
           to
           South
           neere
           40
           miles
           to
           the
           City
           of
           
             Exeter
             ,
          
           and
           to
           
             Exmouth
             ,
          
           where
           it
           delivers
           it selfe
           into
           the
           Ocean
           ,
           and
           from
           thence
           to
           
             Brayfourd
             ,
          
           (
           another
           Fourd
           which
           runs
           into
           the
           River
           of
           
             Ex
             ,
          
           as
           the
           people
           told
           me
           ;
           but
           I
           finde
           it
           not
           so
           in
           the
           Map
           ,
           )
           that
           dayes
           journey
           was
           sixteene
           miles
           ,
           a
           teadious
           weary
           way
           for
           a
           crazy
           ,
           old
           ,
           lame
           ,
           bad
           ,
           foundered
           footman
           ,
           I
           am
           sure
           I
           found
           it
           so
           ;
           for
           when
           I
           came
           to
           my
           lodging
           I
           had
           more
           minde
           to
           eate
           then
           to
           fight
           ,
           and
           a
           better
           stomack
           to
           a
           bed
           then
           a
           supper
           .
        
         
           The
           fifth
           of
           
             Iuly
             ,
          
           I
           walked
           but
           seven
           mi'es
           to
           
             Barnstable
             ,
          
           a
           very
           fine
           sweete
           Towne
           ,
           so
           cleane
           and
           neate
           ,
           that
           in
           the
           worse
           of
           weather
           ,
           a
           man
           may
           walke
           the
           streets
           ,
           and
           never
           foule
           shooe
           or
           boote
           ;
           there
           I
           stayd
           till
           the
           next
           day
           noone
           ,
           being
           well
           and
           wellcomely
           entertained
           by
           one
           Mr.
           
             Iohn
             Downes
             ,
          
           who
           gave
           me
           Fidlers
           fare
           ,
           meate
           ,
           drinke
           and
           money
           ,
           for
           
           which
           I
           heartily
           thanked
           him
           :
           From
           thence
           I
           past
           by
           water
           five
           miles
           to
           
             Aplear
             .
          
        
         
           
             Iuly
          
           the
           sixt
           (
           being
           Friday
           )
           I
           paced
           it
           ten
           miles
           to
           a
           place
           named
           
             Ferry
             Crosse
             ,
          
           in
           the
           Parish
           of
           
             Allington
             ,
          
           and
           the
           seven
           day
           I
           turned
           my
           back
           upon
           
             Devonshire
             ,
          
           having
           gone
           that
           day
           fifteene
           miles
           to
           the
           first
           Market
           Towne
           in
           
             Cornewall
          
           (
           on
           the
           North-side
           of
           the
           County
           )
           named
           
             Stratten
             .
          
        
         
           
             Cornewall
          
           is
           the
           
             Cornucopia
             ,
          
           the
           compleate
           and
           repleate
           Horne
           of
           Abundance
           for
           high
           churlish
           Hills
           ,
           and
           affable
           courteous
           people
           ;
           they
           are
           loving
           to
           requite
           a
           kindenesse
           ,
           placable
           to
           remit
           a
           wrong
           ,
           and
           hardy
           to
           resort
           injuries
           ;
           the
           Countrey
           hath
           its
           share
           of
           huge
           stones
           ,
           mighty
           Rocks
           ,
           noble
           ,
           free
           ,
           Gentlemen
           ,
           bountifull
           housekeepers
           ,
           strong
           ,
           and
           stout
           men
           ,
           handsome
           ,
           beautifull
           women
           ,
           and
           (
           for
           any
           that
           I
           know
           )
           there
           is
           not
           one
           
             Cornish
          
           Cuckold
           to
           be
           found
           in
           the
           whole
           County
           :
           In
           briefe
           they
           are
           in
           most
           plentifull
           manner
           happy
           in
           the
           abundance
           of
           right
           and
           left
           hand
           blessings
           .
        
         
           It
           is
           a
           wonder
           that
           such
           rugged
           Mountains
           do
           produce
           such
           fertility
           of
           Corn
           ,
           and
           Cattle
           ;
           for
           if
           the
           happy
           dayes
           and
           times
           of
           peace
           were
           once
           settled
           .
           
             Cornewall
          
           might
           compare
           with
           any
           County
           in
           
             England
             ,
          
           for
           quantity
           of
           all
           necessaries
           needfull
           ,
           and
           quallity
           of
           persons
           .
        
         
           The
           ninth
           of
           
             Iuly
          
           I
           left
           
             Stratten
          
           and
           ambled
           twenty
           miles
           to
           the
           Towne
           of
           
             Camelfourd
             ,
          
           and
           to
           a
           Village
           called
           
             Blistland
             ,
          
           and
           there
           I
           was
           taken
           for
           the
           man
           I
           was
           not
           ;
           for
           they
           suspected
           me
           to
           be
           a
           bringer
           of
           Writs
           and
           Processe
           to
           serve
           upon
           some
           Gentlemen
           ,
           and
           to
           bring
           men
           into
           trouble
           :
           But
           with
           much
           adoe
           
           I
           scaped
           a
           beating
           ,
           by
           beating
           into
           their
           beliefes
           that
           I
           was
           was
           no
           such
           creature
           .
        
         
           
             Iuly
          
           the
           tenth
           ,
           I
           came
           to
           
             Bodman
             ,
          
           (
           a
           Market
           Town
           )
           and
           from
           thence
           the
           same
           day
           to
           a
           Village
           called
           St.
           
             Enedor
             ,
          
           a
           part
           of
           which
           Parish
           is
           called
           
             Penhall
             ,
          
           there
           at
           a
           Smiths
           house
           was
           good
           lodging
           ,
           better
           cheare
           ,
           and
           best
           drinke
           ;
           the
           Smith
           was
           lame
           ,
           his
           Wife
           was
           faire
           and
           handsome
           ,
           where
           if
           I
           could
           haue
           acted
           the
           part
           of
           
             Mars
             ,
          
           there
           might
           have
           been
           played
           the
           Comedy
           of
           
             Vulean
          
           and
           
             Venus
             :
          
           that
           dayes
           travell
           was
           eighteen
           miles
           .
        
         
           
             Iuly
          
           eleaventh
           ,
           I
           progressed
           to
           
             Trure
             ,
          
           another
           Market
           Towne
           ,
           which
           is
           the
           Lord
           
             Roberts
          
           his
           Land
           ;
           there
           I
           bought
           a
           fish
           called
           a
           
             Breame
          
           for
           three
           pence
           ,
           it
           would
           have
           served
           foure
           men
           ;
           after
           dinner
           I
           went
           eight
           miles
           further
           to
           a
           Towne
           called
           
             Redruith
             ,
          
           in
           all
           that
           dayes
           travells
           eighteen
           miles
           ,
           I
           saw
           nothing
           strange
           to
           me
           but
           a
           few
           
             Cornish
          
           Dawes
           (
           or
           Choughs
           )
           with
           red
           bills
           ,
           and
           legs
           :
           They
           saluted
           me
           upon
           the
           wing
           ,
           just
           in
           the
           language
           of
           our
           Jack
           Dawes
           about
           
             London
             ,
             Ka
             ,
             Ka.
             
          
        
         
           The
           twelfth
           of
           
             Iuly
             ,
          
           I
           came
           within
           two
           miles
           of
           Saint
           
             Michaels
             Mount
             ,
          
           to
           an
           ancient
           house
           called
           by
           the
           name
           of
           
             Trimineague
          
           :
           it
           hath
           been
           ,
           and
           is
           the
           birth
           place
           of
           Worthy
           Families
           ,
           of
           the
           Noble
           name
           of
           the
           
             Godolphins
          
           :
           The
           right
           owner
           and
           possessour
           of
           it
           now
           is
           
             Francis
             Godolphin
             ,
          
           Esquire
           ,
           a
           Gentleman
           endowed
           with
           Piety
           ,
           Humanity
           ,
           Affability
           and
           Ability
           ;
           he
           hath
           a
           heart
           charitable
           ,
           a
           minde
           bountifull
           ,
           and
           a
           hand
           liberall
           ;
           he
           hath
           (
           deservedly
           )
           the
           cordiall
           love
           of
           all
           the
           County
           ,
           and
           would
           have
           the
           enjoyments
           of
           earthly
           contentments
           ,
           if
           once
           these
           discontented
           
           times
           were
           quieted
           :
           Seaven
           dayes
           I
           stayed
           with
           him
           ,
           in
           which
           time
           he
           was
           pleased
           to
           send
           a
           Kinsman
           of
           his
           (
           M.
           
             Anthony
             Godolpheny
             )
          
           with
           me
           to
           see
           the
           Mount
           ,
           which
           I
           thus
           describe
           .
           It
           is
           about
           a
           mile
           in
           compasse
           at
           the
           foote
           ,
           and
           it
           rises
           700
           peces
           very
           steepe
           to
           the
           top
           ,
           it
           is
           in
           forme
           like
           a
           great
           hay-cock
           or
           Reeke
           ,
           or
           much
           like
           a
           Mounteere
           ;
           on
           the
           top
           or
           Piram●s
           of
           it
           ,
           is
           a
           fine
           Church
           called
           Saint
           
             Michaels
             ,
          
           the
           sayd
           Church
           is
           now
           for
           no
           other
           use
           but
           a
           well
           stored
           Magazine
           with
           Ammunition
           ,
           from
           whence
           (
           for
           a
           relique
           of
           remembrance
           )
           I
           brought
           halfe
           a
           yard
           of
           Saint
           
             Michaels
             Mounts
          
           Monumentall
           Match
           :
           I
           went
           to
           the
           top
           of
           the
           Church
           Tower
           seventy
           steps
           higher
           ,
           and
           in
           my
           comming
           downe
           I
           viewed
           the
           Bells
           (
           which
           were
           five
           in
           number
           )
           being
           faire
           and
           handsome
           ,
           they
           cannot
           be
           rung
           ,
           because
           the
           crack
           rope
           Souldiers
           have
           broke
           all
           the
           Bell-ropes
           ,
           insomuch
           as
           for
           any
           more
           ringing
           there
           ,
           the
           Bells
           being
           ropelesse
           ,
           the
           people
           are
           hopelesse
           .
        
         
           To
           speake
           the
           truth
           of
           this
           so
           much
           talked
           of
           Famous
           Mount
           ;
           it
           is
           lofty
           ,
           rocky
           ,
           innaccessible
           ,
           impregnable
           not
           to
           be
           taken
           ,
           or
           kept
           ,
           nor
           worth
           the
           taking
           or
           keeping
           :
           It
           is
           a
           barren
           stony
           little
           wen
           or
           wait
           ,
           that
           with
           men
           ,
           Amunition
           ,
           and
           Victualls
           is
           able
           to
           defend
           it selfe
           ;
           but
           if
           it
           hath
           not
           the
           Sea
           and
           Land
           to
           friend
           ,
           there
           is
           an
           Enemy
           called
           hunger
           (
           or
           famine
           )
           that
           will
           conquer
           Mounts
           and
           Mountaines
           :
           It
           can
           do
           no
           service
           to
           the
           seaward
           ,
           for
           the
           water
           is
           so
           shallow
           ,
           that
           no
           ship
           can
           saile
           within
           shot
           of
           it
           ,
           and
           for
           Land
           service
           the
           Towne
           of
           
             Market
             Iew
             ,
          
           stands
           better
           for
           defence
           :
           The
           Mount
           is
           an
           Island
           ,
           and
           no
           Island
           ,
           twice
           in
           every
           24
           houres
           :
           for
           when
           the
           Sea
           is
           up
           ,
           
           Boates
           must
           be
           used
           to
           go
           to
           it
           ,
           but
           upon
           the
           ebbe
           ,
           Troopers
           may
           ride
           to
           it
           forty
           in
           Ranck
           :
           
             Market
             Iew
          
           is
           about
           two
           flight
           shoote
           of
           it
           ,
           the
           Mayor
           whereof
           (
           one
           
             Mr.
             William
             Mabb
             )
          
           caused
           me
           to
           dine
           with
           him
           ,
           for
           which
           I
           returne
           him
           a
           few
           printed
           thanks
           .
        
         
           In
           the
           Mount
           I
           saw
           a
           craggy
           rugged
           seat
           ,
           of
           Rocky
           Upholstery
           ,
           which
           the
           old
           fabulous
           rumour
           calls
           St.
           
           
             Michaels
             Chayre
          
           :
           and
           a
           Well
           I
           saw
           there
           ,
           which
           twice
           in
           24
           howres
           is
           fresh
           water
           ,
           and
           salt
           water
           :
           This
           Mount
           had
           a
           Garrison
           within
           it
           ,
           which
           made
           the
           Country
           people
           to
           grumble
           without
           it
           ;
           yet
           the
           soldiers
           are
           pretty
           civill
           :
           and
           one
           Captaine
           
             Geary
          
           did
           courteously
           regard
           and
           drink
           with
           me
           at
           the
           Maiors
           house
           at
           
             Market
             Iew
             .
          
           From
           thence
           I
           returned
           to
           Mr.
           
           
             Godolphins
             ,
          
           and
           he
           did
           perswade
           mee
           to
           see
           the
           Lands
           end
           ,
           fourteen
           miles
           further
           ;
           for
           which
           journey
           on
           the
           16.
           day
           of
           July
           ,
           he
           did
           lend
           me
           2.
           horses
           ,
           with
           his
           kinsman
           to
           ride
           with
           me
           ,
           where
           (
           for
           his
           sake
           )
           I
           was
           welcome
           by
           the
           way
           ,
           with
           a
           good
           dinner
           ,
           at
           one
           Mr.
           
             Levales
          
           house
           ,
           from
           whence
           I
           rode
           ,
           and
           went
           as
           far
           as
           I
           could
           ride
           ,
           goe
           ,
           or
           creepe
           ,
           for
           rockes
           and
           sea
           :
           and
           there
           I
           saw
           the
           Island
           of
           
             Silly
             ,
          
           with
           other
           smaller
           Islands
           ,
           which
           are
           sayd
           to
           be
           16.
           or
           17.
           in
           number
           .
           The
           mayne
           Island
           is
           held
           for
           the
           Prince
           ,
           by
           one
           Captaine
           (
           or
           as
           some
           say
           ,
           a
           Knight
           )
           called
           Sir
           
             Iohn
             Greenvill
          
           ;
           it
           is
           very
           strong
           ,
           with
           a
           good
           safe
           harbour
           ,
           and
           as
           it
           is
           reported
           there
           ,
           hath
           a
           good
           fleet
           of
           ships
           in
           it
           :
           some
           doe
           call
           it
           a
           second
           
             Argiere
             ,
          
           for
           there
           cannot
           a
           ship
           or
           vessell
           passe
           by
           it
           ,
           but
           they
           doe
           make
           out
           upon
           them
           ,
           whereby
           they
           have
           great
           riches
           ,
           with
           all
           necessaries
           :
           it
           was
           8.
           leagues
           at
           least
           from
           me
           ,
           insomuch
           that
           I
           could
           but
           onely
           see
           it
           dimly
           ,
           and
           2.
           ships
           I
           perceyved
           
           that
           lay
           at
           road
           (
           perdue
           )
           to
           give
           notice
           (
           as
           I
           conjectured
           )
           of
           the
           appearance
           of
           any
           shipping
           that
           sayled
           within
           their
           ken
           :
           I
           did
           cut
           my
           name
           4.
           inches
           deep
           in
           a
           small
           patch
           of
           earth
           amongst
           the
           Rockes
           ,
           at
           the
           Lands
           end
           ,
           and
           I
           am
           sure
           no
           man
           can
           go
           thither
           and
           set
           his
           name
           or
           foot
           ,
           halfe
           a
           foot
           before
           me
           .
        
         
           The
           same
           day
           I
           returned
           to
           one
           Mr.
           
             Iones
          
           his
           house
           a
           mile
           thence
           ,
           in
           the
           farthest
           Western
           Parish
           of
           the
           County
           of
           
             Cornwall
             ,
          
           called
           
             Sevin
          
           ;
           there
           I
           had
           good
           entertainment
           all
           night
           ,
           by
           the
           Gentlemans
           and
           his
           Wives
           free
           welcome
           ,
           which
           was
           out
           of
           their
           owne
           curteous
           disposition
           ;
           but
           chiefly
           for
           Mr.
           
           
             Godolphins
          
           sake
           ,
           to
           whom
           at
           
             Trimiweagow
          
           I
           returned
           ,
           on
           the
           17.
           of
           July
           ,
           where
           I
           rested
           one
           day
           :
           and
           on
           the
           18.
           day
           I
           tooke
           my
           leave
           ,
           having
           received
           7.
           dayes
           hospitality
           in
           plenty
           ,
           with
           many
           other
           curtesies
           in
           money
           and
           other
           necessaries
           which
           I
           wanted
           ;
           besides
           hee
           sent
           his
           kinsman
           with
           mee
           to
           direct
           mee
           the
           way
           to
           another
           
             Francis
             Godolphin
          
           of
           
             Godolphin
          
           house
           .
           That
           Gentleman
           is
           the
           chiefe
           of
           that
           noble
           name
           ;
           his
           house
           a
           stately
           ancient
           Pallace
           ,
           and
           my
           chear
           and
           welcome
           at
           dinner
           ,
           most
           freely
           bountifull
           .
           After
           dinner
           hee
           walked
           with
           me
           ,
           where
           (
           in
           my
           way
           )
           I
           saw
           his
           Mines
           of
           Tin
           ,
           and
           a
           house
           where
           his
           workemen
           were
           refining
           and
           melting
           of
           Tin
           ,
           which
           is
           a
           rich
           commodity
           .
           So
           at
           my
           taking
           leave
           of
           him
           ,
           hee
           put
           ten
           shillings
           in
           my
           hand
           ,
           which
           came
           to
           me
           in
           an
           acceptable
           time
           .
        
         
           From
           thence
           I
           jog'd
           3.
           miles
           further
           ,
           to
           a
           house
           called
           
             Clowance
          
           in
           the
           Parish
           of
           
             Crowen
             ,
          
           where
           dwells
           one
           Mr.
           
             Iohn
             Sentabin
             ,
          
           he
           is
           sonne
           in
           Law
           to
           the
           first
           
             Godolphin
          
           I
           came
           to
           ,
           whose
           daughter
           he
           marryed
           (
           a
           vertuous
           and
           beautifull
           Gentlewoman
           )
           where
           I
           tooke
           
           a
           welcome
           ,
           a
           supper
           and
           a
           bed
           ,
           till
           the
           next
           morning
           ,
           being
           
             Iuly
          
           19.
           he
           sent
           a
           man
           with
           me
           eight
           Miles
           to
           a
           sister
           of
           his
           ,
           named
           Mrs.
           
             Gertrude
             ,
          
           to
           her
           I
           was
           so
           welcome
           ,
           that
           after
           I
           thought
           she
           had
           been
           weary
           of
           me
           ,
           she
           would
           faine
           have
           had
           me
           to
           stay
           two
           dayes
           more
           ,
           which
           I
           (
           with
           thankes
           refusing
           )
           she
           lent
           me
           a
           Mare
           (
           and
           a
           man
           to
           bring
           her
           home
           againe
           )
           which
           Mare
           I
           roade
           to
           a
           Towne
           called
           
             Penny
             com
             quick
             ,
          
           within
           a
           mile
           of
           
             Pendennis
          
           Castle
           ,
           which
           Castle
           I
           looked
           on
           a
           far
           off
           ,
           but
           I
           durst
           not
           attempt
           to
           offer
           to
           go
           into
           it
           ,
           for
           feares
           and
           jealousies
           might
           have
           mistaken
           me
           for
           a
           spy
           ;
           for
           at
           all
           places
           of
           Garison
           ,
           there
           is
           very
           strict
           examinations
           of
           persons
           ,
           and
           at
           every
           Townes
           end
           ,
           in
           all
           the
           sea
           Townes
           of
           part
           of
           
             Cornewall
             ,
             Devonshire
             ,
             Dorsetshire
             ,
          
           and
           every
           Shine
           ,
           no
           traveller
           could
           passe
           without
           catechizing
           words
           :
           
             As
             what
             is
             your
             name
             ,
             whence
             came
             you
             ,
             where
             dwell
             you
             ,
             whither
             go
             you
             ,
             what
             is
             your
             businesse
             ,
             and
             wherefore
             came
             you
             hither
             ?
          
           Now
           he
           that
           cannot
           answer
           these
           particular
           demands
           punctually
           ,
           is
           to
           be
           had
           before
           Governours
           ,
           Captaines
           ,
           Commanders
           ,
           Mayors
           ,
           or
           Constables
           ,
           where
           if
           a
           man
           doe
           chance
           to
           be
           suffered
           to
           passe
           freely
           from
           them
           ,
           yet
           it
           is
           a
           hazard
           of
           the
           losse
           of
           a
           Travellers
           liberty
           by
           either
           their
           unbeliefe
           or
           misp
           ision
           ,
           and
           at
           the
           best
           it
           is
           a
           hinderance
           to
           a
           mans
           journey
           and
           losse
           of
           time
           .
        
         
           These
           considerations
           made
           me
           doubtfull
           to
           presume
           to
           looke
           into
           
             Pendennis
          
           Castle
           ,
           or
           any
           other
           Garrison
           or
           place
           of
           defence
           :
           This
           Castle
           is
           seated
           very
           high
           ,
           and
           it
           stands
           very
           defensive
           for
           the
           famous
           Haven
           of
           
             Faymouth
             ,
          
           (
           one
           of
           the
           best
           Harbours
           for
           shipping
           in
           the
           world
           :
           )
           it
           was
           built
           by
           King
           
             Henry
          
           the
           
           eight
           ,
           it
           is
           impregnable
           ,
           and
           as
           long
           as
           it
           is
           well
           manned
           ,
           amunitioned
           ,
           and
           victualled
           ,
           it
           is
           thought
           to
           be
           invincible
           ,
           and
           there
           's
           an
           end
           of
           that
           poynt
           .
        
         
           That
           day
           I
           past
           a
           Ferry
           called
           King
           
             Harries
          
           Passage
           ,
           (
           but
           why
           it
           is
           so
           named
           few
           men
           knowe
           )
           there
           I
           lodged
           at
           the
           Ferry
           mans
           house
           ,
           and
           the
           next
           morning
           being
           21
           of
           
             Iuly
             ,
          
           I
           travelled
           twelve
           miles
           to
           a
           fisher
           Towne
           called
           
             Mevageasie
          
           ;
           that
           Towne
           hath
           in
           it
           two
           Tavernes
           ,
           and
           six
           Ale-houses
           ,
           to
           every
           one
           of
           which
           I
           went
           for
           lodging
           ,
           and
           not
           any
           one
           would
           harbour
           me
           ,
           then
           I
           fought
           for
           a
           Constable
           to
           helpe
           me
           ,
           but
           no
           Constable
           was
           to
           be
           found
           ;
           the
           people
           all
           wondring
           at
           me
           ,
           as
           if
           I
           had
           been
           some
           strange
           Beast
           ,
           or
           Monster
           brought
           out
           of
           
             Affrica
          
           ;
           at
           which
           most
           incivill
           and
           barbarous
           useage
           ,
           I
           began
           to
           be
           angry
           ,
           and
           I
           perceiving
           that
           no body
           cared
           for
           my
           anger
           ,
           I
           discreetely
           went
           into
           the
           house
           where
           I
           first
           demanded
           lodging
           ;
           where
           the
           Hostes
           being
           very
           willing
           to
           give
           me
           the
           courteous
           entertainement
           of
           
             Iack
             Drum
             ,
          
           commanded
           me
           very
           kindely
           to
           get
           me
           out
           of
           dores
           ,
           for
           there
           was
           no
           roome
           for
           me
           to
           lodge
           in
           .
           I
           told
           her
           that
           I
           would
           honestly
           pay
           for
           what
           I
           tooke
           ,
           and
           that
           if
           I
           could
           not
           have
           a
           bed
           ,
           yet
           I
           was
           sure
           of
           a
           house
           over
           my
           head
           ,
           and
           that
           I
           would
           not
           out
           till
           the
           morning
           :
           with
           that
           a
           yong
           saucy
           knave
           told
           me
           that
           if
           I
           would
           not
           go
           out
           ,
           he
           would
           throw
           me
           out
           ,
           at
           which
           words
           my
           choller
           grew
           high
           ,
           my
           indignation
           hot
           ,
           and
           my
           fury
           fiery
           ,
           so
           that
           I
           arose
           from
           a
           bench
           ,
           went
           to
           my
           youth
           ,
           and
           dared
           to
           the
           combate
           ;
           whereat
           the
           Hostesse
           (
           with
           feare
           and
           trembling
           )
           desired
           me
           to
           be
           quiet
           ,
           and
           I
           should
           have
           a
           bed
           ,
           at
           which
           words
           my
           wrath
           was
           appeared
           ,
           and
           my
           ire
           asswaged
           .
        
         
         
           But
           straite
           wayes
           another
           storme
           seemed
           to
           appeare
           ;
           for
           an
           ancient
           Gentleman
           came
           suddenly
           out
           of
           another
           Roome
           (
           who
           had
           heard
           all
           the
           former
           friendly
           passages
           ,
           )
           and
           hee
           told
           mee
           that
           I
           should
           not
           lodge
           there
           ,
           for
           though
           I
           had
           sought
           and
           not
           found
           a
           Constable
           ,
           yet
           I
           should
           know
           that
           I
           had
           found
           a
           Justice
           of
           Peace
           before
           I
           sought
           him
           ;
           and
           that
           he
           would
           see
           me
           safely
           lodged
           :
           I
           was
           somewhat
           amazed
           at
           his
           words
           ,
           and
           answered
           him
           ,
           Let
           him
           doe
           his
           pleasure
           ,
           for
           I
           submitted
           my selfe
           to
           his
           disposall
           .
        
         
           To
           which
           he
           replyde
           ,
           That
           I
           should
           go
           but
           halfe
           a
           mile
           with
           him
           to
           his
           house
           ,
           which
           I
           did
           ,
           and
           there
           his
           good
           Wife
           and
           he
           did
           entertayne
           me
           courteously
           ,
           with
           such
           fare
           and
           lodging
           ,
           as
           might
           have
           accommodated
           any
           Gentleman
           of
           more
           worth
           and
           better
           quality
           then
           one
           that
           had
           been
           ten
           times
           in
           degree
           before
           me
           :
           there
           I
           stayd
           the
           Saturday
           and
           all
           the
           Sunday
           ,
           where
           I
           found
           more
           Protestant
           Religion
           in
           2.
           dayes
           ,
           then
           I
           had
           in
           5.
           yeers
           before
           .
           The
           Gentlemans
           name
           is
           Mr.
           
             Iohn
             Carew
             ,
          
           a
           Gentleman
           of
           noble
           and
           ancient
           descent
           ,
           and
           a
           worthy
           Iustice
           of
           the
           Peace
           in
           those
           parts
           .
        
         
           I
           was
           certified
           ,
           that
           in
           that
           little
           Town
           of
           
             Mevagesey
             ,
          
           there
           are
           44.
           
           Fisher
           Boats
           ,
           which
           doe
           fish
           for
           Pilchards
           ,
           that
           every
           Boat
           hath
           6.
           men
           ,
           and
           that
           every
           2.
           
           Boats
           have
           one
           net
           between
           them
           :
           they
           doe
           call
           the
           2.
           
           Boats
           a
           Seine
           ;
           so
           there
           are
           22.
           
           Seines
           ,
           and
           22.
           
           Nets
           :
           every
           Cornish
           Bushell
           is
           in
           measure
           2.
           
           Bushels
           and
           a
           halfe
           of
           our
           measure
           at
           London
           :
           every
           2.
           
           Boates
           (
           or
           Seine
           )
           doe
           spend
           250.
           
           Bushels
           of
           Salt
           (
           Cornish
           measure
           )
           to
           salt
           Pilchards
           only
           ;
           every
           Seine
           do
           use
           100.
           
           Hogsheads
           to
           pickle
           the
           sayd
           Pilchards
           in
           yearly
           .
           So
           
           that
           this
           one
           little
           Towne
           ,
           doth
           spend
           by
           Gods
           blessing
           ,
           and
           the
           meanes
           of
           those
           small
           fishes
           ,
           every
           year
           ,
        
         
           Of
           Salt
           ,
           22
           times
           350
           Cornish
           Bushells
           ,
           which
           is
           in
           the
           number
           of
           our
           Bushells
           ,
           14000,350
           .
        
         
           Of
           Hogsheads
           ,
           or
           Caske
           ,
           2200.
           
        
         
           Of
           men
           for
           44
           Boats
           ,
           6
           men
           for
           each
           ,
           264.
           
        
         
           These
           men
           with
           their
           Families
           (
           being
           many
           in
           Number
           )
           are
           all
           maintained
           by
           Pilchard
           catching
           ;
           but
           this
           is
           not
           all
           ,
           for
           there
           are
           other
           greater
           ●ownes
           in
           the
           County
           ,
           which
           doe
           every
           one
           of
           them
           use
           the
           same
           trade
           of
           fishing
           ,
           with
           more
           and
           greater
           numbers
           of
           men
           ,
           boats
           ,
           nets
           ,
           caske
           ,
           and
           much
           more
           quantity
           of
           salt
           ;
           some
           of
           the
           other
           Townes
           are
           S.
           
             Keverne
             ,
             Foye
             ,
             Lee
             ,
          
           with
           others
           which
           I
           cannot
           recite
           .
        
         
           This
           infinite
           number
           of
           Pilchards
           ,
           being
           salted
           and
           put
           up
           in
           Caske
           ,
           are
           bought
           a
           mane
           by
           the
           Spanish
           ,
           French
           ,
           Datch
           ,
           Italian
           ,
           and
           other
           Merchants
           ,
           and
           by
           them
           they
           are
           either
           eaten
           or
           fold
           ,
           and
           transported
           to
           many
           other
           people
           and
           Nations
           :
           And
           now
           I
           hope
           I
           have
           filled
           my
           Renders
           bellies
           with
           Pilchards
           ,
           without
           cloying
           or
           offending
           their
           stomack●
           ;
           if
           any
           one
           be
           queasie
           ,
           or
           doe
           feele
           a
           wambling
           in
           the
           Gizzard
           ;
           let
           them
           call
           for
           a
           cup
           of
           S●ck
           ,
           drinke
           it
           ,
           and
           pay
           for
           it
           .
        
         
           The
           23
           of
           
             Iuly
             ,
          
           I
           came
           to
           
             Foye
             ,
          
           and
           to
           
             Loo
          
           or
           
             Low
          
           )
           twenty
           miles
           ;
           this
           Towne
           of
           
             Loo
             ,
          
           is
           divided
           in
           two
           parts
           ,
           or
           two
           Townes
           together
           ,
           two
           Mayors
           ,
           two
           Churches
           ,
           two
           Governours
           ,
           and
           more
           then
           two
           Religions
           ;
           all
           that
           I
           can
           say
           of
           either
           of
           the
           
             Looes
             ,
          
           is
           ,
           that
           there
           was
           Souldiers
           and
           swordmen
           ,
           strong
           Beere
           and
           dagger
           Ale
           ,
           Land
           flesh
           and
           Sea
           fish
           in
           plenty
           .
        
         
           On
           the
           24.
           of
           
             Iuly
             ,
          
           I
           turned
           my
           back
           upon
           
             Cornewall
             ,
          
           and
           went
           from
           
             Loo
          
           to
           
             Plimouth
          
           in
           
             Devonshire
             ,
          
           
           twelve
           miles
           :
           At
           
             Plimouth
          
           I
           stayd
           not
           two
           houres
           ,
           the
           Towne
           was
           too
           full
           of
           suspitions
           to
           hold
           me
           :
           There
           I
           saw
           Colonel
           
             William
             Leg
             ,
          
           a
           prisoner
           in
           the
           Towerhouse
           ,
           or
           Guild
           hall
           ,
           I
           spake
           to
           him
           (
           being
           on
           the
           ore
           side
           of
           the
           way
           in
           a
           window
           ,
           and
           he
           on
           the
           other
           )
           in
           a
           low
           whispering
           voice
           that
           every
           one
           might
           heare
           what
           we
           sayd
           ;
           I
           wished
           him
           health
           and
           liberty
           ,
           and
           so
           left
           him
           in
           thraldome
           ;
           There
           was
           two
           Stationers
           did
           make
           me
           very
           welcome
           for
           two
           or
           three
           houres
           ;
           their
           names
           were
           
             Thomas
             Ratcliffe
          
           and
           
             William
             Weekes
             ,
          
           they
           gave
           me
           smoake
           and
           drinke
           in
           
             Plimouth
             ,
          
           for
           which
           I
           require
           them
           in
           Paper
           and
           Inck
           at
           
             London
             .
          
        
         
           That
           afternoone
           I
           left
           
             Plimouth
             ,
          
           and
           went
           foure
           miles
           further
           ,
           to
           
             Plimpton
             ,
          
           and
           on
           the
           morrow
           (
           being
           Saint
           
             Iames
          
           his
           day
           )
           I
           hired
           a
           horse
           forty
           miles
           to
           
             Exeter
             ,
          
           where
           I
           was
           two
           dayes
           entertained
           at
           mine
           owne
           cost
           ,
           with
           some
           charges
           that
           
             Burgomasters
          
           and
           Bookesellers
           underwent
           :
           I
           can
           say
           little
           of
           
             Exeter
             ,
          
           but
           that
           it
           is
           a
           faire
           sweete
           City
           ,
           a
           goodly
           Cathedrall
           Church
           (
           not
           yet
           quite
           spoyled
           or
           stabled
           )
           and
           it
           had
           large
           Suburbs
           ,
           with
           long
           streets
           ,
           and
           many
           fine
           dwellings
           till
           this
           mad
           fire
           of
           contention
           turned
           all
           to
           ruines
           ,
           rubbidge
           ,
           cinders
           ,
           Ashes
           ,
           and
           fume
           .
        
         
           Two
           houres
           before
           
             Phabus
          
           appeared
           in
           our
           hemisphere
           ,
           I
           was
           on
           footback
           from
           
             Exeter
          
           to
           
             Honiton
             ,
          
           the
           27.
           of
           
             Iuly
             ,
          
           there
           I
           had
           a
           nights
           lodging
           ,
           and
           dyet
           of
           such
           a
           homely
           fashion
           ,
           as
           I
           have
           no
           occasion
           to
           boast
           of
           ;
           there
           I
           hired
           a
           Horse
           (
           which
           proved
           to
           be
           a
           blinde
           Mare
           )
           she
           had
           two
           wens
           as
           big
           as
           clusters
           of
           Grapes
           hung
           over
           both
           her
           eyes
           ,
           and
           five
           or
           six
           wens
           on
           her
           shoulders
           and
           flanks
           ,
           all
           which
           beautifull
           ornaments
           I
           
           could
           not
           perceive
           or
           see
           till
           I
           had
           road
           the
           beast
           foure
           mile
           ,
           (
           for
           I
           was
           mounted
           before
           the
           breake
           of
           day
           ;
           )
           but
           when
           I
           saw
           the
           comelynesse
           of
           the
           beast
           ,
           betweene
           shame
           and
           anger
           I
           was
           almost
           mad
           at
           the
           Rogue
           that
           owned
           her
           ;
           and
           being
           neere
           to
           a
           Market
           Towne
           called
           
             Axmister
             ,
          
           I
           dismounted
           ,
           and
           footed
           eight
           miles
           to
           
             Broad
             Winsor
          
           in
           
             Dersetshire
             ,
          
           where
           I
           was
           better
           horst
           eight
           miles
           further
           to
           
             Evershot
             ,
          
           and
           then
           I
           paced
           on
           foote
           eight
           miles
           further
           to
           the
           Towne
           of
           
             Sherbourne
             ,
          
           that
           dayes
           travell
           was
           31
           mile
           .
        
         
           The
           31
           of
           
             Iuly
             ,
          
           I
           went
           from
           
             Sherbourne
          
           to
           
             Shafisbury
             ,
          
           and
           so
           to
           
             Wilton
             ,
          
           and
           
             Salisbury
             ,
          
           31
           mile
           :
           At
           
             Wilton
          
           I
           saw
           the
           Earle
           of
           
             Pembrokes
          
           Magnificent
           and
           Sumptuous
           Building
           and
           repairing
           of
           such
           a
           stately
           Fabrick
           ,
           that
           for
           strength
           ,
           beauty
           ,
           forme
           ,
           state
           ,
           glazing
           ,
           painting
           ,
           gilding
           ,
           carving
           ,
           pollishing
           ,
           embellishing
           and
           adorning
           :
           It
           may
           be
           a
           Pallace
           for
           the
           greatest
           King
           in
           Christendome
           :
           the
           Springs
           ,
           and
           Fish-ponds
           ,
           the
           Garden
           ,
           the
           Walkes
           ,
           the
           rare
           Artificiall
           Rocks
           and
           Fountaines
           ,
           the
           Ponds
           with
           fish
           on
           the
           house
           top
           ,
           the
           strange
           figures
           and
           fashions
           of
           the
           water
           workes
           ,
           the
           numerous
           ,
           innumerable
           varieties
           of
           fruits
           and
           flowers
           ;
           yea
           all
           ,
           and
           every
           thing
           that
           may
           make
           an
           earthly
           Paradice
           ,
           is
           there
           to
           be
           seene
           ,
           felt
           ,
           heard
           ,
           or
           understood
           ,
           (
           which
           because
           I
           understand
           not
           )
           I
           shut
           up
           all
           with
           this
           ,
           there
           is
           inestimable
           cost
           ,
           exquisite
           Art
           and
           Artists
           ,
           most
           exceeding
           good
           work
           and
           workemen
           ,
           onely
           one
           thing
           (
           that
           is
           quite
           out
           of
           fashion
           almost
           every where
           )
           is
           used
           there
           ,
           which
           is
           good
           and
           just
           payment
           .
        
         
           From
           
             Wilton
             ,
          
           to
           
             Salisbury
          
           two
           miles
           ,
           there
           I
           sleeped
           out
           the
           later
           end
           of
           the
           whole
           Moneth
           of
           
             Iuly
             .
          
           
           I
           had
           a
           desire
           to
           go
           into
           the
           Church
           there
           (
           one
           of
           the
           fairest
           in
           England
           )
           but
           now
           the
           playes
           be
           downe
           ,
           there
           was
           no
           sights
           to
           be
           seen
           without
           money
           ,
           which
           though
           I
           could
           have
           payd
           ,
           yet
           for
           two
           Reasons
           I
           would
           not
           ;
           the
           one
           was
           because
           I
           had
           oftentimes
           seene
           that
           Church
           in
           former
           times
           ,
           when
           Gods
           Service
           was
           sayd
           there
           ,
           and
           the
           second
           cause
           why
           I
           would
           not
           be
           guilty
           of
           Simony
           ,
           and
           with
           corrupting
           Mammon
           enter
           or
           intrude
           into
           the
           House
           of
           God
           .
        
         
           The
           first
           of
           
             August
             ,
          
           I
           footed
           to
           
             Andover
             ,
          
           fifteene
           old
           miles
           ,
           and
           eighteene
           new
           ones
           ,
           (
           of
           the
           Posts
           late
           measuring
           :
           )
           The
           next
           day
           to
           
             Merrell
             Greene
             ,
          
           24
           miles
           ,
           the
           third
           day
           to
           
             Stanes
             ,
          
           eighteene
           miles
           ,
           and
           the
           fourth
           of
           August
           fifteene
           miles
           to
           
             London
          
           :
           My
           journey
           being
           in
           all
           546
           miles
           ,
           which
           I
           went
           and
           came
           in
           six
           Weekes
           ,
           and
           lay
           still
           and
           rested
           twelve
           dayes
           in
           severall
           places
           on
           Weeke
           dayes
           ,
           besides
           six
           Sundayes
           :
           But
           all
           this
           was
           nothing
           to
           me
           ,
           being
           a
           youth
           of
           threescore
           and
           ten
           ,
           with
           a
           lame
           leg
           and
           a
           halfe
           ,
           and
           there
           is
           an
           end
           of
           the
           story
           .
        
         
           
             Like
             to
             the
             stone
             of
             
               Sisiphus
               .
            
             I
             roule
          
           
             From
             place
             to
             place
             ,
             through
             weather
             faire
             and
             foule
             ,
          
           
             And
             yet
             I
             every
             day
             must
             wander
             still
          
           
             To
             vent
             my
             Bookes
             ,
             and
             gather
             friends
             good
             will
             ;
          
           
             I
             must
             confesse
             this
             worke
             is
             frivalowse
             ,
          
           
             And
             he
             that
             (
             for
             it
             )
             daigues
             to
             give
             a
             lowse
             ,
          
           
             Doth
             give
             as
             much
             for
             't
             as
             't
             is
             worth
             ,
             I
             know
             ;
          
           
             Yet
             meerly
             merily
             
               I
            
             this
             jaunt
             did
             goe
          
           
             In
             imitation
             of
             a
             mighty
             King
             .
          
           
             Whose
             warlike
             acts
             ,
             good
             fellowes
             often
             sing
             ,
          
           
             The
             King
             of
             France
             and
             twenty
             thousand
             men
             ,
          
           
             Went
             up
             the
             Hill
             ,
             and
             so
             came
             downe
             agen
             .
          
           
             So
             I
             this
             travell
             past
             ,
             with
             cost
             and
             paine
             ,
          
           
             And
             (
             as
             I
             wisely
             went
             )
             came
             home
             againe
             .
          
        
         
           FINIS
           .